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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hertfordshire, by Herbert W Tompkins
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Hertfordshire
+
+Author: Herbert W Tompkins
+
+Illustrator: Edmund H. New
+
+Release Date: April 25, 2006 [EBook #18252]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HERTFORDSHIRE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Louise Pryor and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+{Transcriber's note: Some misprints have been corrected, as noted at the
+end of the e-text. All material added by the transcriber is between
+braces {}. Text in bold in the original is surrounded by =equals signs=.}
+
+
+
+
+
+HERTFORDSHIRE
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ST. ALBAN'S ABBEY CHURCH]
+
+
+
+
+  HERTFORDSHIRE
+
+  _By_
+  HERBERT W. TOMPKINS
+  F.R.Hist.S.
+
+  _With Illustrations by_
+  EDMUND H. NEW
+  AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
+  AND TWO MAPS
+
+  "Hearty, homely, loving Hertfordshire"
+                          --CHARLES LAMB
+
+  LONDON
+  METHUEN & CO. LTD.
+  _36 Essex St. Strand_
+
+  _Second Edition, Revised_
+
+
+
+
+  _First Published            March 1903_
+  _Second Edition, Revised          1922_
+
+
+
+
+  TO
+  MY WIFE
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+In the following pages I have endeavoured to give a brief description of
+Hertfordshire on the lines of Mr. F. G. Brabant's book in this series.
+The general features of the county are briefly described in the
+Introduction, in sections approximately corresponding to the sections of
+the volume on Sussex. I have thought it wise, however, to compress the
+Introduction within the briefest limits, in order that, in the
+Gazetteer, I might have space for more adequate treatment than would
+otherwise have been possible.
+
+I have visited a large proportion of the towns, villages and hamlets of
+Hertfordshire, and have, so far as possible, written from personal
+observation.
+
+I desire to thank Mr. John Hopkinson, F.L.S., F.G.S., etc., for his
+kindness in writing the sections on _Climate_ and _Botany_; Mr. A. E.
+Gibbs, F.L.S., F.R.H.S., for his permission to make use of several
+miscellanies from his pen, and Mr. Alfred Bentley of New Barnet for his
+courtesy in placing some photographs from his collection at the disposal
+of Mr. New.
+
+  VERULAM,
+  SOUTHEND-ON-SEA,
+  1903.
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                 PAGE
+
+INTRODUCTION                                                        1
+
+    I SITUATION, EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES                              1
+
+   II PHYSICAL FEATURES                                             2
+
+  III CLIMATE                                                      11
+
+   IV FLORA AND FAUNA                                              15
+
+    V POPULATION                                                   23
+
+   VI COMMUNICATIONS                                               25
+
+  VII INDUSTRIES                                                   28
+
+ VIII HISTORY                                                      31
+
+   IX ANTIQUITIES                                                  33
+
+    X CELEBRATED MEN                                               39
+
+DESCRIPTION OF PLACES IN HERTFORDSHIRE ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY     45
+
+INDEX TO PERSONS                                                  235
+
+
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS
+
+
+THE RAILWAYS OF HERTFORDSHIRE                           _Front Cover_
+
+THE ABBEY CHURCH, ST. ALBANS                           _Frontispiece_
+  (_From a Photograph by the Graphotone Co., Enfield_)
+
+LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS         _To face page_ 2
+  (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_)
+
+ON THE RIVER COLNE                                                  8
+  (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_)
+
+GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING--THE HIGHEST WATER LEVEL IN ENGLAND  10
+  (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_)
+
+THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY                                         47
+  (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_)
+
+ASHRIDGE HOUSE                                                     53
+  (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_)
+
+OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK                                               59
+  (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_)
+
+CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD                                       72
+  (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_)
+
+BISHOP'S STORTFORD                                                 74
+  (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_)
+
+BROXBOURNE                                                         79
+
+CHORLEY WOOD COMMON                                                87
+  (_From a Photo. by the London Stereoscopic & Photo. Co._)
+
+HATFIELD HOUSE                                                    109
+  (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_)
+
+KING JAMES'S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE                         111
+  (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_)
+
+HEMEL HEMPSTEAD                                                   115
+
+HERTFORD                                                          117
+
+HITCHIN                                                           125
+  (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_)
+
+KNEBWORTH PARK                                                    139
+
+OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END                                     146
+  (_From a Photograph by the Author_)
+
+RICKMANSWORTH                                                     170
+  (_From a Photo. by the London Stereoscopic & Photo. Co._)
+
+THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON                                          172
+  (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_)
+
+THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBANS--THE OLDEST INN IN ENGLAND         178
+  (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_)
+
+BACON'S MONUMENT                                                  183
+  (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_)
+
+RUINS OF BACON'S HOUSE                                            184
+  (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_)
+
+ST. ALBAN'S SHRINE                                                192
+  (_From a Photograph by the Graphotone Co., Enfield_)
+
+STEVENAGE CHURCH                                                  204
+  (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_)
+
+WALTHAM CROSS                                                     214
+
+MAP OF HERTFORDSHIRE                                              233
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+I. SITUATION, EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES
+
+Hertfordshire, or Herts, is a county in the S.E. of England. On the S.
+it is bounded by Middlesex; on the S.W. by Buckinghamshire; on the N.W.
+by Bedfordshire; on the N. by Cambridgeshire; on the E. by Essex. Its
+extreme measurement from due E. to W., say from Little Hyde Hall to
+Puttenham, is about 38 miles; from N. to S., from Mobb's Hole at the top
+of Ashwell Common to a point just S. of Totteridge Green, about 30
+miles; but a longer line, 36 miles in length, may be drawn from Mobb's
+Hole to Troy Farm in the S.W. Its boundaries are very irregular; the
+neighbourhood of Long Marston is almost surrounded by Buckinghamshire
+and Bedfordshire, that of Hinxworth by Cambridgeshire and Bedfordshire,
+and that of Barnet by Middlesex. Its extreme points are:--
+
+    N. Lat.  52°  5´ (N.)
+    E. Long.  0° 13´ (E.)
+    W. Long.  0° 45´ (W.)
+    S. Lat.  51° 36´ (N.)
+
+Its area is 404,523 acres or 632 square miles. It is one of the
+smallest counties in England, the still smaller counties being Rutland,
+Middlesex, Huntingdon, Bedford and Monmouth. Hertfordshire is one of the
+six home counties.
+
+[Illustration: LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS]
+
+
+II. PHYSICAL FEATURES
+
+Hertfordshire, being an inland county, is naturally devoid of many
+charms to be found in those counties which have a sea-coast. But it has
+beauties of its own, being particularly varied and undulating. Its
+scenery is pleasantly diversified by many woods, which however are
+mostly of but small extent, by swelling cornfields, and by several small
+and winding streams. There is much rich loam in the many little
+valley-bottoms traversed by these streams, and other loams of inferior
+quality are found in abundance on the higher levels of the arable
+districts. The soil in many parts, owing to the preponderance of chalk,
+is specially adapted to the cultivation of wheat. Its trees have
+elicited the admiration of many, particularly its oaks and elms, of
+which colossal specimens are found here and there throughout the county,
+and its beeches, of which the beautiful woods on the Chiltern slopes and
+elsewhere in the W. are largely composed. The hornbeam is almost
+restricted to Essex and Hertfordshire. The woods of Hertfordshire form
+indeed its sweetest attraction in the eyes of many. The districts of
+Rickmansworth, Radlett, Wheathampstead and Breachwood Green, among
+others, are dotted with coppices of ideal loveliness, and larger
+woods such as Batch Wood near St. Albans and Bricket Wood near Watford
+are carpeted with flowers in their season, interspersed with glades, and
+haunted by jays and doves, by ringlets and brimstones. Hazel woods
+abound, and parties of village children busily "a-nutting" in the autumn
+are one of the commonest sights of the county. It abounds, too, in quiet
+park-like spots which are the delight of artists, and contains many
+villages and hamlets picturesquely situated upon slopes and embowered
+among trees. A large proportion of the birds known to English observers
+are found in the county either regularly or as chance visitors, and will
+be treated more fully in a separate section. The many narrow, winding,
+flower-scented lanes are one of the chief beauties of Hertfordshire. The
+eastern part of the county, though, on the whole, less charming to the
+eye than the rest, contains some fine manor houses and interesting old
+parish churches. Its most beautiful part is unquestionably the W., near
+the Buckinghamshire border; its greatest historic interest centres
+around St. Albans, with its wonderful old abbey church now largely
+restored; Berkhampstead, Hertford, Hatfield and Hitchin. The county
+contains rather less than the average of waste or common land; the
+stretches of heath used for grazing purposes only aggregating 1,200
+acres.
+
+Among the finest panoramic views may be mentioned:--
+
+(1) From the hill near Boxmoor Station.
+
+(2) From the village of Wigginton, looking S.
+
+(3) From the high-road between Graveley and Baldock.
+
+(4) From Windmill Hill, Hitchin, looking W.
+
+There were medicinal waters at Barnet, Northaw, Hemel Hempstead and
+Welwyn, but these are now disused. Many other details touching
+physiographical characteristics are mentioned as occasion arises in the
+Alphabetical Gazetteer which follows this Introduction.
+
+The Geology of Hertfordshire must be here summarised in few words. The
+predominant formations are the Cretaceous and the Tertiary.
+
+CRETACEOUS.--Ignoring the Gault, which barely touches the county, this
+formation consists chiefly of Chalk-marl, Lower, Middle and Upper Chalk.
+A series of Chalk Downs, an extension of the Chiltern Hills, stretches,
+roughly speaking, from Tring to Royston, forming by far the most
+prominent natural feature of Hertfordshire. The oldest rocks are in the
+N.W.
+
+_The Chalk Marl_ is superimposed upon the Gault and Upper Greensand
+beds, which are confined to the western portion of the county. Its upper
+layer passes into a sandy limestone, known as Totternhoe stone, which
+has furnished materials for many churches in the shire. Ashwell, Pirton
+and Tring may be named as neighbourhoods where this stratum may be
+traced.
+
+_The Lower Chalk_ is devoid of flints, and rests, in somewhat steeply
+sloping beds, upon the Totternhoe stone. It forms the western slopes of
+the Dunstable Downs, and of the Chiltern Hills. It is fossiliferous, one
+of the commonest of its shells being the Terebratula.
+
+_The Middle Chalk_, of resonant hardness, is laminated, and has at its
+base the Melbourn Rock and at its summit the Chalk Rock. Nodules of
+flint, greenish in appearance, and (rarely) arranged in layers, occur
+sparsely in the Middle Chalk, which may be traced in the neighbourhood
+of Boxmoor, Berkhampstead and Baldock, and also in a few other
+districts.
+
+_The Upper Chalk._--Although, as has been stated, the configuration of
+Hertfordshire is very undulating, we are able to discern a general trend
+in certain districts. Thus, there is a gradual slope to the S. from the
+N.W. and central hills, a slope which comprises the larger part of the
+county. This slope is formed of the Upper Chalk, a formation abounding
+in layers of black flints. The chalk is whiter than that of the lower
+beds, and very much softer. Fossil sponges, sea-urchins, etc., are
+abundant in this formation.
+
+TERTIARY.--Many of the chalk hills of Hertfordshire are strewn with
+outlying more recent deposits which prove that the lower Tertiary beds
+were more extensive in remote ages. The beds of sand and clay, of such
+frequent occurrence in the S.E. districts, contain fossils so distinct
+from those of the Upper Chalk that an immense interval must have elapsed
+before those Tertiary deposits were in turn laid down.
+
+_The Eocene Formation._--The _Thanet Beds_, of light-coloured sands,
+present in some other parts of the London Basin, notably in Kent, are
+wanting in Hertfordshire. There are, however, some widespread deposits
+of loamy sands which may possibly be rearranged material from the Thanet
+Beds.
+
+The lowest Eocene deposits in the county are the _Reading Beds_. These
+rest directly upon the Chalk and have an average thickness of, say, 25
+feet. They may be traced E. to S.W. from the brickfields near Hertford
+to Hatfield Park; thence to the kilns on Watford Heath and at Bushey;
+they may also be traced from Watford to Harefield Park. These beds
+contain flints, usually found close to the Chalk, and consist chiefly of
+mottled clays, sands, and pebble-beds. Fossils are but rarely found.
+From the Woolwich and Reading Beds come those conglomerate masses of
+flint pebbles commonly called Hertfordshire _plum-pudding stone_. These
+have usually a silicious matrix and were often used by the Romans and
+others for making querns for corn-grinding. It is, perhaps, not
+impertinent to mention here the opinion of geologists that during the
+_Eocene Period_ a considerable portion of the land usually spoken of as
+S.E. England was covered by the ocean.
+
+Resting upon the _Reading Beds_ we find that well-known stratum called
+the _London Clay_, which is of bluish hue when dug at any considerable
+depth. It is found in some of the same districts as the _Woolwich_ and
+_Reading Beds_, and from Hertford and Watford it extends to N.E. and
+S.W. respectively until it leaves Hertfordshire. Its direction may be
+approximately traced by a series of hills, none of which are of any
+great height.
+
+_The Drift._--In Hertfordshire, as elsewhere, the strata whose names are
+so familiar to geologists do not form the existing _surface_ of the
+ground. For the origin of this we go back to a comparatively recent
+period, when disintegration was busily working upon the solid rocks, and
+glaciers were moving southwards, leaving stones and much loose _débris_
+in their wake. Rivers, some of which, as in the Harpenden valley, have
+long ceased to run, separated the flints from the chalk, forming a
+gravel which is found in quantities at Harpenden, Wheathampstead and St.
+Albans, and is, indeed, present in all valley-bottoms, even where no
+river now runs. Gravel, together with clays, sand, and alluvial loams,
+forms, for the most part, the actual surface of the county.
+
+_The Rivers_ of Hertfordshire are many, if we include several so small
+as hardly to deserve the name. They are the Ash, Beane, Bulbourne,
+Chess, Colne, Gade, Hiz, Ivel, Lea, Maran, Purwell, Quin, Rhee, Rib,
+Stort and Ver.
+
+1. _The Ash_ rises near Little Hadham, and, passing the village of
+Widford, joins the Lea at Stanstead.
+
+2. _The Beane_, rising in the parish of Cottered, runs to Walkern, where
+it passes close to the church, and flows from thence past Aston and
+Watton, and into the Lea at Hertford.
+
+3. _The Bulbourne_ rises in the parish of Tring, passes N.E. of
+Berkhampstead and S.W. of Hemel Hempstead and unites with the Gade at
+Two Waters.
+
+4. _The Chess_ enters the county from Buckinghamshire at Sarratt Mill,
+and flowing past Loudwater joins the Gade at Rickmansworth. The Valley
+of the Chess is one of the prettiest districts in the shire.
+
+[Illustration: ON THE RIVER COLNE]
+
+5. _The Colne_ rises near Sleap's Hyde, is crossed by the main road from
+Barnet to St. Albans at London Colney, and by the main road from Edgware
+to St. Albans at Colney Street. Thence it passes between Bushey Hall and
+Bushey Lodge, flows through Watford to Rickmansworth where, uniting with
+the Gade and Chess, it enters Middlesex near Stocker's Farm.
+
+6. _The Gade_ rises near Little Gaddesden, skirts Hemel Hempstead Church
+on the W. side, and passing King's Langley and Hunton Bridge, flows
+through Cassiobury Park and joins the Chess and Colne at Rickmansworth.
+
+7. _The Hiz_, rising at Well Head, S.W. of Hitchin, crosses that town,
+joins the Purwell at Grove Mill and leaves the county at Cadwell.
+
+8. _The Ivel_ rises near Baldock, flows to Radwell Mill and shortly
+afterwards enters Bedfordshire.
+
+9. _The Lea_ is the largest river in Hertfordshire. It rises near
+Leagrave (in Bedfordshire) and flows through the county from N.W. to
+S.E. Entering Hertfordshire at Hide Mill, it flows past Wheathampstead,
+Hatfield, Hertford, Ware, and, leaving the county near Waltham Abbey,
+enters the Thames at Blackwall. Its entire length is about 50 miles. The
+waterway known as the _Lea and Stort Navigation_ is navigable to
+Bishop's Stortford.
+
+10. _The Maran_, or _Mimram_, rises in the parish of King's Walden,
+skirts Whitwell on the N., running parallel with the village street, and
+passing through Welwyn and near Tewin enters the Lea at Hertingfordbury.
+
+11. _The Purwell_, or _Pirall_, rises in the parish of Ippollits and
+passing W. of Great Wymondley runs to Purwell Mill, and joins the Hiz at
+Grove Mill.
+
+12. _The Quin_ rises in the neighbourhood of Wyddial, and passing
+Quinbury, unites with the Rib at Braughing.
+
+13. _The Rhee_, rising a little E. of Ashwell, has but a few miles to
+flow before it enters Cambridgeshire.
+
+14. _The Rib_ rises at Corney Bury, flows E. of Buntingford, thence
+turning W. it flows under the bridge at the _Adam and Eve_, runs to
+Westmill, Standon and Thundridge, finally uniting with the Lea at
+Hertford.
+
+15. _The Stort_ enters Hertfordshire from Essex at a point near Cannon
+Wood Mill, and after passing through Bishop's Stortford forms the
+extreme E. boundary of the county for some distance before quitting it
+near Cheshunt.
+
+16. _The Ver_ rises near Flamstead, is crossed by the Dunstable Road,
+N.W. of Redbourn, then recrossed by it. It then skirts St. Albans on the
+S. and joins the Colne near Park Street.
+
+In addition to the cutting of the _Lea and Stort Navigation_ already
+mentioned, there are other artificial waterways:--
+
+_The Aylesbury Canal_ (a branch of the Grand Junction Canal) crosses the
+extreme western neck of the county, from S. of Puttenham to S. of
+Gubblecote.
+
+[Illustration: GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING
+               _The highest water level in England_]
+
+_The Grand Junction Canal_ is largely utilised by barges traversing the
+W. of Hertfordshire. It is conspicuous at Rickmansworth, Boxmoor, and
+Berkhampstead; it enters Bedfordshire near Marsworth Reservoir.
+
+_The New River_ was constructed by Sir Hugh Myddelton, a London
+goldsmith, in 1609-13, and is largely fed by springs at Chadwell near
+Hertford. Its course in Hertfordshire is mostly close to and parallel
+with that of the Lea. The New River caused the financial ruin of its
+projector; one of its shares is now worth a large fortune. The whole
+story of this undertaking is very interesting; but as the New River was
+cut in order to bring water to London that story belongs to a volume on
+Middlesex.
+
+
+III. CLIMATE
+
+The chief elements of climate are temperature and rainfall. A general
+idea of the mean temperature and rainfall of Hertfordshire, both monthly
+and annual, may be gained from an inspection of Bartholomew's _Atlas of
+Meteorology_ (1899). From that work it appears that the mean annual
+temperature of the county, if reduced to sea-level (that is, the
+theoretical mean for its position) would be 50° or a little above it,
+but that the actual mean varies from 46°-48° on the Chiltern Hills to
+48°-50° in the rest and much the greater part of Hertfordshire; also
+that the mean annual rainfall is between 25 and 30 inches, the latter
+amount only being approached towards the Chilterns. Thus altitude is
+seen to have a great effect on both these elements of climate.
+
+Hertfordshire is hilly though not mountainous, a great extent of its
+surface being considerably elevated above sea-level, with a general
+south-easterly inclination; it has a dry soil; is well watered with
+numerous rivers of clear water--already enumerated--chiefly derived from
+springs in the Chalk; is well but not too densely wooded; and its
+atmosphere is not contaminated by manufacturing towns. It thus maintains
+the reputation for salubrity which it gained more than three centuries
+ago, our earliest county historian, Norden, remarking on the "salutarie"
+nature of the "aire".
+
+Observations taken at the following meteorological stations during the
+twelve years 1887 to 1898 have been printed annually in the
+_Transactions of the Hertfordshire Natural History Society_, and a brief
+summary of some of the chief results will here be given.
+
+_Royston_ (London Road): lat. 52° 2´ 34´´ N.; long. 0° 1´ 8´´ W.; alt.
+301 feet; observer, the late Hale Wortham, F.R.Met.Soc.
+
+_Berkhampstead_ (Rosebank): lat. 51° 45´ 40´´ N.; long. 0° 33´ 30´´ W.;
+alt. 400 feet; observer, Edward Mawley, F.R.Met.Soc.
+
+_St. Albans_ (The Grange): lat. 51° 45´ 9´´ N.; long. 0° 20´ 7´´ W.;
+alt. 380 feet; observer, John Hopkinson, Assoc.Inst.C.E.
+
+_Bennington_ (Bennington House): lat. 51° 53´ 45´´ N.; long. 0° 20´ 7´´
+W.; alt. 407 feet; observer, Rev. Dr. Parker, F.R.Met.Soc.
+
+_New Barnet_ (Gas Works): lat. 51° 38´ 5´´ N.; long. 0° 10´ 15´´ W.;
+alt. 212 feet; observer, T. H. Martin, M.Inst.C.E.
+
+1. _Temperature._--The mean temperature of Hertfordshire, as deduced
+from the above observations, is 48.3°. It has varied from 47.0° in 1887
+to 50.2° in 1898. The mean daily range is 15.9°. It was the least
+(14.2°) in 1888, and the greatest (18.1°) in 1893. The mean temperature
+of the seasons is as follows: spring 46.6°, summer 60.2°, autumn 49.2°,
+winter 37.2°. The warmest month is July, with a mean temperature of
+61.0°; the coldest is January, with a mean of 36.1°. August is very
+little colder than July. In these two months only has the temperature
+never been below freezing-point (32°). In December and January only has
+it never exceeded 62°. It increases most rapidly during the month of
+May, and decreases most rapidly during September and October.
+
+2. _Humidity._--The relative humidity of the air, that is the amount of
+moisture it contains short of complete saturation which is represented
+by 100, is, at 9 A.M., 82. It has varied from 78 in 1893 to 85
+in 1888 and 1889. The air is much drier in spring and summer (78 and 75)
+than it is in autumn and winter (86 and 89). There is the least amount
+of moisture in the air from April to August (74 to 78), and the greatest
+from November to January (90).
+
+3. _Cloud._--The mean amount of cloud at 9 A.M., from 0 (clear sky) to
+10 (completely overcast), is 6.7. It has varied from 6.0 in 1893 to 7.4
+in 1888. Spring, summer, and autumn are about equally cloudy (6.5 to
+6.6), and winter is considerably more so (7.2). The sky at 9 A.M. is
+brightest in September (6.0) and most cloudy in November and January
+(7.5).
+
+4. _Sunshine._--At Berkhampstead only have records of bright sunshine
+been taken for the whole of the twelve years. Throughout the year the
+sun shines brightly there for nearly four hours a day (3.9). The average
+duration in spring is 5.0, in summer 5.8, in autumn 3.2, and in winter
+1.6. The duration is least in December and greatest in May; the sun
+shining for rather more than an hour a day in December and nearly six
+hours and a half in May. An apparent discrepancy between this and the
+preceding section is due to a bright day often following a cloudy
+morning and _vice versâ_.
+
+5. _Wind._--The prevailing direction of the wind, as recorded at
+Berkhampstead, St. Albans and Bennington, is from S.W. (sixty-one days
+in the year) to W. (sixty-two days), and the next most frequent winds
+are N. to N.E. and S. (each about thirty-seven days). The least frequent
+are S.E. (twenty-five days). About forty-four days in the year are
+recorded as calm.
+
+6. _Rainfall._--Twelve years is much too short a period to give a
+trustworthy mean for such a variable element of climate as rainfall, and
+five stations are much too few to deduce an average from for
+Hertfordshire. The average rainfall at a varying number of stations for
+the sixty years 1840 to 1899 (from one station in the first decade of
+this period to twenty stations in the last decade) was 26.15 inches. In
+the driest year (1854) 17.67 inches fell, and in the wettest (1852)
+37.57 inches. Spring has 5.40 inches, summer 6.97, autumn 7.87, and
+winter 5.91. The driest months are February and March, each with a mean
+of 1.65 inch; April is but very little wetter, having 1.69. The wettest
+month is October, with 2.96 inches, and the next is November with 2.56.
+The mean number of days of rain in the year, that is of days on which at
+least 0.01 inch fell, for the thirty years 1870-99, was 167. Autumn and
+winter have each about six more wet days than spring and summer. The
+rainfall is greatly affected by the form of the ground, the southern and
+western hills attracting the rain, which chiefly comes from the S.W., so
+greatly that with a mean annual fall of about 26 inches there is a
+difference of 3½ inches between that of the river-basin of the Colne on
+the W. and that of the river-basin of the Lea on the E., the former
+having 28 inches and the latter 24½. The small portion of the
+river-basin of the Great Ouse which is within our area has rather less
+rain than the average for the county.
+
+
+IV. FLORA AND FAUNA
+
+In his _Cybele Britannica_, H. C. Watson divided Britain into eighteen
+botanical provinces of which the Thames and the Ouse occupy the whole of
+the S.E. of England. The greater part of Hertfordshire is in the Thames
+province and a small portion in the N. is in that of the Ouse.
+
+In Pryor's _Flora of Hertfordshire_, published by the Hertfordshire
+Natural History Society in 1887, which should be referred to for full
+information on the botany of the county, these botanical provinces are
+again divided into districts, the Ouse into (1) Cam, (2) Ivel; and the
+Thames into (3) Thame, (4) Colne, (5) Brent, (6) Lea; both the larger
+provinces and the smaller districts thus being founded on the natural
+divisions of a country, drainage areas or catchment basins.
+
+In the following brief notes a few of the rarer or more interesting
+flowering plants of each district are enumerated.
+
+1. _The Cam._--This is the most northern district. It is almost entirely
+on the Chalk and is very bare of trees. The few plants which are
+restricted to it are very rare. A meadow-rue, _Thalictrum Jacquinianum_,
+and the cat's foot (_Antennaria dioica_) occur only on Royston and
+Therfield Heaths; _Alisma ranunculoides_ and _Potamogeton coloratus_
+only on Ashwell Common; and of the great burnet (_Poterium officinale_)
+the sole record is that of a plant gathered near Ashwell in 1840.
+
+2. _The Ivel._--This district is S.W. of that of the Cam, and the Chalk
+Downs of that district are continued through it. Its rarer plants are
+_Melampyrum arvense_, which occurs only in one spot S. of Ashwell;
+_Smyrnium olusatrum_, which has been found near Baldock and Pirton; and
+_Silene conica_, which was found near Hitchin in 1875. The white
+helleborine (_Cephalanthera pallens_), the dwarf orchis (_Orchis
+ustulata_), and the musk orchis (_Herminium monorchis_) occur on the
+Chalk Downs.
+
+3. _The Thame._--A very small tongue-like protrusion[a] of the extreme
+W. of the county, in which are the Tring Reservoirs. Two of the species
+confined to the district, _Typha angustifolia_ and _Potamogeton
+Friesii_, are water-plants which occur only in these reservoirs or in
+the canals which they supply. A rare poplar, _Populus canescens_, grows
+by the Wilstone reservoir, and the man-orchis (_Aceras anthropophora_)
+on terraces cut in the Chalk near Tring.
+
+4. _The Colne._--A large district, comprising almost the whole of the
+western portion of the county. _Diplotaxis tenuefolia_, _Silene nutans_,
+and _Hieracium murorum_ grow only on old walls in St. Albans. Colney
+Heath is our only habitat for a very rare loosestrife, _Lythrum
+hyssopyfolium_, and also for _Teesdalia nudicaulis_, while there is but
+one other locality, a different one in each case, for four of its
+plants, _Radiola linoides_, _Centunculus minimus_, _Cuscuta epithymum_,
+and _Potamogeton acutifolius_. The pasque-flower (_Anemone pulsatilla_)
+grows abundantly on the Chalk slopes near Aldbury. The rarer orchids of
+the district are the bog-orchis (_Malaxis paludosa_), the narrow-leaved
+helleborine (_Cephalanthera ensifolia_), and the butterfly orchis
+(_Habenaria bifolia_).
+
+5. _The Brent._--The smallest district, a protrusion[b] of the county in
+the S. entirely on the London Clay, and chiefly interesting owing to the
+presence of Totteridge Green and its ponds. In these ponds grow the
+great spearwort (_Ranunculus lingua_) and the sweet-flag (_Acorus
+calamus_), the former, however, not being indigenous. The star-fruit
+(_Damasonium stellatum_) formerly grew on Totteridge Green, and
+_Chenopodium glaucum_ at Totteridge, but neither has lately been seen.
+
+6. _The Lea._--The largest district, comprising the whole of the E. of
+the county. The London rocket (_Sisymbrium irio_) occurs only in the old
+towns of Hertford and Ware; the true oxlip (_Primula elatior_) near the
+head of the River Stort; a very rare broom-rape, _Orobanche cærulea_, at
+Hoddesdon, where it is parasitic on the milfoil; and an almost equally
+rare bedstraw, _Galium anglicum_, on an old wall of Brocket Park. A rare
+trefoil, _Trifolium glomeratum_, is known only at Easneye near Ware; and
+Hatfield Park is our only locality for the water-soldier (_Stratiotes
+aloides_) except where it has evidently been planted. Two species,
+usually of rare occurrence, _Polygonum dumetorum_ and _Apera
+spica-venta_, are frequent in the district.
+
+The indigenous flowering plants of Hertfordshire number 893 species, 679
+being Dicotyledons and 214 Monocotyledons. If to these be added 199
+aliens, etc., the total number of species recorded is brought up to
+1,092. The flora is essentially of a southern type, the northern species
+being few in number. Owing to the dry soil, xerophiles largely prevail
+over hygrophiles.
+
+_The Ferns_ and their allies the horsetails and clubmosses are not well
+represented, both the soil and the air of the county being too dry for
+them. Another cause for the present scarcity of ferns is the proximity
+of Hertfordshire to London, for they have been uprooted and taken there
+for sale in cart-loads. We have twenty-four species of ferns and
+fern-allies, but not one really rare. The principal varieties are
+_Scolopendrium vulgare_, var. _multifidum_; _Athyrium filixfæmina_[c],
+var. _convexum_; and _Polypodium vulgare_, var. _serratum_. _Equisetum
+silvaticum_ is our rarest horsetail; and our only clubmoss is
+_Lycopodium clavatum_.
+
+_The Mosses_ are much better represented than the ferns, 175 species
+having been recorded. The bog-mosses are represented by six
+species--_Sphagnum intermedium_, _cuspidatum_, _subsecundum,
+acutifolium_, _squarrosum_, and _cymbifolium_. _Tetraphis pellucida_
+occurs in Sherrard's Park Wood, and _Polytrichum urnigerum_ in Hitch
+Wood. _Seligeria pusilla_ has been found in an old chalk-pit in Brocket
+Park, and _S. paucifolia_ on chalk nodules in the Tunnel Woods near
+Watford. _Campylopus pyriforme_ occurs in Berry Grove Wood, Aldenham,
+and _C. flexuosus_ in Dawley's Wood, Tewin.
+
+Of _the Liverworts_ (_Hepaticæ_) forty-four species are known to occur;
+and the Stoneworts (_Characeæ_) are represented by seven species--two of
+_Chara_, two of _Tolypella_, and three of _Nitella_.
+
+_The Algæ_ have been pretty fully investigated, especially the
+_Diatomaceæ_, of the 252 species of Algæ known to occur in the county,
+156 belonging to that interesting family of microscopic plants. As an
+illustration of their minute size it may be mentioned that a single drop
+of water from the saucer of a flower-pot at Hertford, mounted as a
+microscopic slide, was found to contain 200,000 separate frustules of
+_Achnanthes subsessilis_, and it was estimated that these occupied only
+one twenty-fifth part of the drop. Both species of _Chlamidococcus_ (the
+old genus _Protococcus_), _C. pluvialis_ and _C. nivalis_ occur; and
+the pretty _Volvox globator_ has frequently been found.
+
+Of _the Lichens_ much less is known, only sixty-seven species having
+been recorded. The most noteworthy are _Calicium melanophæum_, found on
+fir-trees in Bricket Wood; _Peltigera polydactyla_, on moss-covered
+ground in Oxhey Woods, Watford; _Lecanora phlogina_, in the Tunnel
+Woods, Watford; and _Pertusaria globulifera_, on trees in the same woods
+and also in Bricket Wood. As woods in the vicinity of Hertford and of
+Watford only have been searched for lichens, our list ought to be
+largely increased by investigation in other parts of the county.
+
+Of _the Fungi_ our chief knowledge is derived from lists of species
+collected at Fungus Forays of the Hertfordshire Natural History Society
+and from records of the Mycetozoa by Mr. James Saunders. The number of
+species recorded for the county is 735, of which fifty-eight are
+"myxies". Of the Hymenomycetes, or mushroom-like fungi, some very
+noteworthy finds have been made, nearly all at Forays of the county
+society. They include two species new to Britain, _viz._, _Agaricus
+(Nolania) nigripes_, found in Aldenham Woods, Watford, and _Ag.
+(Hypholoma) violacea-ater_, in Gorhambury Park, St. Albans (by the
+present writer). Hertfordshire has also furnished the second British
+records for _Ag. (Lepiota) gliodermus_ (Broxbourne Woods), _Ag.
+(Leptonia) euochrous_ (Ashridge Woods), _Ag. (Psathyrella) aratus_
+(Sherrard's Park, Welwyn), and _Paxillus Alexandri_ (Hatfield Park),
+this species having first been recorded from Hatfield Park, Essex; and
+the second and third British record for _Agaricus (Clytocybe) Sadleri_
+(Ashridge Park and Cassiobury Park). The very rare _Strombilomyces
+strombilaceus_ has been found in Grove Park, Watford, and the still
+rarer _Peziza luteo-nitens_ on the Chalk slopes between Aldbury and
+Ashridge Park. Lastly it may be mentioned that Mr. Saunders added the
+"myxie" _Physarum citrinum_ to the British fungus-flora from specimens
+found by him at Caddington and Welwyn.
+
+_The Birds_ of Hertfordshire have been carefully observed, and the
+appearance of rare visitors has been duly recorded. At a lecture
+delivered at St. Albans in 1902, Mr. Alan F. Crossman, F.L.S., F.Z.S.,
+stated that 212 species had been known to visit the county, and
+mentioned, _inter alia_, that the kingfisher is more numerous in
+Hertfordshire than formerly, that the heron nested in the county for the
+first time in 1901, and that the appearance of the bearded titmouse had
+been noticed on but three occasions. During the last forty years the
+following birds, among others, have been noticed as occasional
+visitants: the storm-petrel (_Procellaria pelagica_), golden oriole
+(_Oriolus galbula_), whooper-swan (_Cygnus musicus_), snow-bunting
+(_Plectrophanes nivalis_), greater spotted woodpecker (_Picus major_),
+black tern (_Hydrochelidon nigra_), great northern diver (_Colymbus
+glacialis_), herring-gull (_Larus argentatus_), cormorant
+(_Phalacrocorax carbo_), tufted duck (_Fuligula cristata_), hoopoe
+(_Upopa epops_), crossbill (_Loxia curvirostra_), sheldrake (_Tadorna
+cornuta_), Guillemot[d] (_Lornvia troile_), Pallas' sandgrouse (_Syrrhaptes
+paradoxus_), rock thrush (_Monticola saxatilis_), black redstart
+(_Ruticilla titys_), Dartford warbler (_Silvia undata_), grasshopper
+warbler (_Locustella nævia_)[d], waxwing (_Ampelis garrulus_), twite
+(_Linota flavirostris_), hen harrier (_Circus cyaneus_), buzzard (_Buteo
+vulgaris_), redshank (_Totanus calidris_), greenshank (_Totanus
+cunescens_) and the little auk (_Mergulus alle_).
+
+The lapwing is thought to be increasing in numbers; the writer
+frequently observed considerable flocks during his recent rambles in the
+county. Finches are perhaps as numerous in Hertfordshire as in any other
+county of equal size; the large flocks of hen chaffinches that haunt the
+farmyards in winter being quite a notable feature. The goldfinch, it is
+to be feared, is rapidly becoming scarcer; as are also the jay, the
+woodcock and other birds much more numerous a few years back. Fieldfares
+and redwings visit the county in great numbers from the N. during the
+winter; one morning in the winter of 1886 the writer saw many thousands
+of fieldfares pass over St. Albans from the direction of Luton. The
+redwing, being largely insectivorous, is often picked up dead in the
+fields when the frost is unusually severe and food proportionally
+difficult to obtain.
+
+The presence of many woods and small streams attracts a good proportion
+of the smaller English migrants; the nightingale and the cuckoo are
+heard almost throughout the county. Moorhens, coots and dabchicks are
+abundant; the reed-sparrow is heard only in a few districts. Titmice,
+great, blue and long-tailed, are well distributed.
+
+
+V. POPULATION
+
+Comparatively little peculiar to the county is known of the early
+inhabitants of Hertfordshire. They seem from the earliest times to have
+been scattered over the county in many small groups, rather than to have
+concentrated at a few centres. Singularly enough, this almost uniform
+dispersion of population is still largely maintained, for, unlike so
+many other counties, Hertfordshire has not within its borders a single
+large town. The larger among them, _i.e._, Watford, St. Albans, Hitchin,
+Hertford and Bishop's Stortford, are not collectively equal in
+population to even such towns as Bolton, Halifax or Croydon. Another
+feature to be noted is that, owing to the county's proximity to London,
+it is now the home of persons of many nations and tongues, and only in
+the smaller villages between the railroads are there left any traits of
+local character or peculiarities of idiom. It is hardly necessary to say
+that this conglomeration of peoples is common to all the home counties,
+though mostly so, as I venture to think, in Hertfordshire and Surrey.
+The Essex peasant is still strongly differentiated from his neighbours.
+
+Grose, writing towards the end of the eighteenth century, stated that
+the population of Hertfordshire was 95,000. They must have been well
+dispersed, for he tells us that the county contained at that period 949
+villages; by the word "village," however, he seems to mean any separate
+community, including small hamlets. Some interesting figures are to be
+found in Tymms's _Compendium of the History of the Home Circuit_. He
+states that in 1821 the county contained 129,714 inhabitants, comprising
+26,170 families and living in 23,687 houses. Of these families no fewer
+than 13,485 were engaged in agriculture. From the same source I quote
+the following figures relating to the year 1821:--
+
+                           Houses.   Inhabitants.
+    Hemel Hempstead         1,012       5,193
+    Watford                   940       4,713
+    Hitchin                   915       4,486
+    St. Albans                735       4,472
+    Cheshunt                  847       4,376
+    Hertford                  656       4,265
+
+In 1881 the population of the county was 203,069; in 1891 it had
+increased by about one-eleventh to 220,162; in 1921 it was 333,236.
+
+In the days of William I. the whole of the possessions and estates of
+Hertfordshire belonged to the King and forty-four persons who shared his
+favour, amongst whom may be mentioned the Archbishop of Canterbury, the
+Bishops of London, Winchester, Chester, Bayeux and Liseux, and the
+Abbots of Westminster, Ely, St. Albans, Charteris and Ramsey.
+
+To go as far back as the Heptarchy, we find the land mostly owned by
+Mercians, East Saxons and by the Kings of Kent, and thus there gradually
+sprang up that "Middle English" population which for so long formed a
+large proportion of the inhabitants of Hertfordshire, Middlesex and Essex.
+How thoroughly such persons separated into small communities and settled
+down in every part of the county may be ascertained by the many "buries"
+found at a little distance from the town or village--Redbourn-bury,
+Ardeley-bury, Bayford-bury, Langley-bury, Harpenden-bury, etc.
+
+
+VI. COMMUNICATIONS
+
+1. _Roads._--Hertfordshire, as one of the home-counties, is crossed by
+many fine roads from the N.E., E. and N.W., as they gradually converge
+towards their common goal--London. Among them may be mentioned the Old
+North Road, from Royston through Buntingford and Ware to Waltham Cross;
+the Great North Road from Baldock through Stevenage, Welwyn and Hatfield
+to Barnet; and the Dunstable Road through Market Street, Redbourn and
+St. Albans, which meets the last-mentioned road at Barnet.[1] We may
+contrast these roads at the present day with the rough paths infested
+with robbers existing in the days when the country between Barnet and
+St. Albans was little better than a continuous, tangled forest; or even
+with the same roads in the days when Evelyn and Pepys frequently rode
+along them--and found them exceedingly bad. The cyclist wishing to ride
+northwards through Hertfordshire has comparatively stiff hills to mount
+at Elstree, High Barnet, Ridge, near South Mimms, and at St. Albans. He
+should also beware of the descent into Wheathampstead, of the dip
+between Bushey and Watford, and of the gritty roadways in the
+neighbourhood of Baldock. Most of the roads are well kept, particularly
+since they have been cared for by the County Council, and the
+traveller's book at the inn usually contains fewer anathemas touching
+the state of the highways than in some other counties which might be
+named.
+
+[Footnote 1: There has been much dispute as to the exact trend of the
+"Great North Road". After careful inquiry I believe that the above
+paragraph states the case correctly. Much misunderstanding has doubtless
+arisen by confounding the "Old" with the "Great" North Road.]
+
+_Railways._--Few counties in England are so well served with railroad
+communications; the London and North Western, Midland, Great Northern
+and Great Eastern running well across its face.
+
+_The London and North Western_ enters the county ½ mile N.W. of Pinner,
+and has stations on its main route at Bushey, Watford, King's Langley,
+Boxmoor, Berkhampstead and Tring. It crosses the Bedfordshire border
+near Ivinghoe. From Watford it has a branch to Rickmansworth; and to
+Bricket Wood, Park Street and St. Albans; it has also a station at
+Marston Gate, on its branch line to Aylesbury.
+
+_The Midland_ enters the county during its passage through the Elstree
+tunnel and runs nearly due N., having stations at Elstree, Radlett, St.
+Albans and Harpenden. It has also a branch with stations at Hemel
+Hempstead and Redbourn.
+
+_The Great Northern_ main line crosses a small tongue of the county upon
+which it has stations at Oakleigh Park and New Barnet. It then traverses
+the Hadley Wood district of Middlesex, entering Hertfordshire again at
+Warren Gate, and has stations at Hatfield, Welwyn, Knebworth, Stevenage
+and Hitchin. From Hatfield it has three branches: (1) to Smallford and
+St. Albans; (2) to Ayot, Wheathampstead and Harpenden; (3) to Cole
+Green, Hertingfordbury and Hertford. At Hitchin it has a branch to
+Baldock, Ashwell and Royston.
+
+_The Great Eastern_ enters the county at Waltham Cross and skirts the
+whole of the S.E. quarter, running on Essex soil from near the Rye House
+almost to Sawbridgeworth. It has stations in Hertfordshire at Waltham
+Cross, Cheshunt, Broxbourne, Sawbridgeworth and Bishop's Stortford. It
+enters Essex again near the last-named station. It has also important
+branches, (1) from Broxbourne to Rye House, St. Margaret's, Ware, and
+Hertford; (2) from St. Margaret's to Mardock, Widford, Hadham, Standon,
+Braughing, West Mill and Buntingford.
+
+In addition, the Metropolitan Railway has an extension which crosses the
+S.W. extremity of the county, having stations at Rickmansworth and
+Chorley Wood. The Great Northern Railway has a branch from Finsbury Park
+to High Barnet, with a station at Totteridge.
+
+
+VII. INDUSTRIES
+
+1. _Agriculture._--Charles Lamb used no mere haphazard expression when
+he wrote of Hertfordshire as "that fine corn county". Forty years ago
+the county contained 339,187 acres under arable cultivation, of which
+considerably more than half were utilised for corn; and the proportion
+thus used is still much larger than might be supposed. (In 1897 it
+amounted to about 125,000 acres.) At the same period there were about
+60,000 acres under wheat alone; for this grain, of which a large white
+variety is much cultivated, the county has long been famous. To this
+circumstance the village of Wheathampstead is indebted for its name.
+Barley and oats are also staple crops. The first Swede turnips ever
+produced in England were grown on a farm near Berkhampstead. Watercress
+is extensively cultivated, enormous quantities being sent into London
+from St. Albans, Hemel Hempstead, Berkhampstead, Welwyn and many other
+districts. Much manure is brought to the farms from the London stables,
+and by its aid large second crops of vegetables are frequently obtained.
+Clover, turnips and tares may be mentioned among other crops
+prominently cultivated. Fruit is also sent to London, particularly from
+the district lying between Tring, Watford and St. Albans, but none of
+the orchards are large.
+
+The number of pigs reared in the county is--or was quite
+recently--rather above the average (per 100 acres under cultivation) for
+all England; the number of cattle rather below, and of sheep much below,
+this average.
+
+2. _Manufactures_ are fairly numerous.
+
+(_a_) _Straw Plait_ has for over 200 years been extensively made by hand
+for the Luton dealers. The wages earned by peasant girls and women in
+this employment were formerly high; 100 years ago a woman, if dexterous,
+might earn as much as £1 a week, but the increase in machinery and the
+competition from foreign plait has almost destroyed this cottage
+industry in some districts. During the last four decades several large
+straw hat manufactories have been erected in St. Albans, and the trade
+enlarged, although the conditions of production are altered.
+
+(_b_) _Malting_ is still extensively carried on at Ware, which has been
+the centre of the industry for many years; it is said, indeed, to be the
+largest malting town in England. There are nearly 100 malting houses,
+many of them being beside the River Lea, navigable from this town for
+barges W. to Hertford and S. to London. There are extensive _Breweries_
+at St. Albans, Watford, Hertford, High Barnet, Baldock, Hitchin,
+Hatfield, Tring, Berkhampstead, and other places.
+
+(_c_) _Brick Fields_ are worked at Watford, St. Albans, Hemel Hempstead,
+Broxbourne, Bishop's Stortford, Hitchin and elsewhere.
+
+(_d_) _Brushes_ of many kinds are manufactured at St. Albans and
+Berkhampstead.
+
+(_e_) _Hurdles_ are made at Barkway, Croxley Green, Breachwood Green,
+Chorley Wood, Albury, and at one or two other places.
+
+(_f_) _Iron Foundries_ are at Hertford, Ippollitts, Royston, Colne
+Valley (Watford), Hitchin and Puckeridge.
+
+(_g_) _Paper_ is made at Croxley Mills, King's Langley, and Nash Mills.
+
+(_h_) _Silk_ is made at the large mill on the River Ver, St. Albans, and
+at Redbourn.
+
+(_i_) _Photographic plates_, _paper_, etc., are made at Watford, Boreham
+Wood and Barnet.
+
+(_j_) _Lavender Water_ is made at Hitchin, from lavender grown in fields
+close by.
+
+_Gravel_ abounds in many districts, and pits are extensively worked at
+Rickmansworth, Hertford and at Heath, Wheathampstead, Watford and
+Harpenden.
+
+There are _windmills_ at Cromer, Albury, Goff's Oak, Anstey, Arkley,
+Much Hadham, Weston, Tring and Bushey Heath. _Water mills_ are too
+numerous to specify, there being several on many of the small rivers
+named in Section II.
+
+
+VIII. HISTORY
+
+Hertfordshire was formerly a part of Mercia and of Essex. Its share in
+what is usually called "History" can hardly be called great; but many
+interesting details of its story are recorded in the histories of
+Chauncy, Salmon, Clutterbuck, and Cussans. Among smaller works the
+following will be found useful: Cobb's _Berkhampstead_; Gibbs'
+_Historical Records of St. Albans_; Nicholson's _Abbey of St. Albans_;
+Bishop's _Hitchin and Neighbourhood_, and _Bygone Hertfordshire_ by
+various writers.
+
+The story of Hertfordshire may be said to commence with the sack of the
+great Roman city of _Verulamium_ by the followers of Boadicea, Queen of
+the Iceni[e] (A.D. 61). Our knowledge of the event is largely
+drawn from Tacitus, and Dion Cassius, who give revolting details of the
+torture of the inhabitants by the Britons. The martyrdom of St. Alban
+(_circa_ A.D. 304) the Synod of Verulam (429), the second
+destruction of that city by the Saxons towards the end of the sixth
+century and the siege of Hertford by the Danes in 896, when Alfred the
+Great grounded their vessels by cutting the river banks, are some of the
+more prominent episodes of pre-Conquest times. William I., entering the
+county from the direction of Wallingford, met the Saxon nobles in
+council at Berkhampstead immediately before his coronation at
+Westminster. The castles of Hertford and Berkhampstead were captured by
+the revolted barons.
+
+There was a dangerous insurrection of the peasantry in the days of
+Richard II. Three important battles were fought in Hertfordshire, during
+the Wars of the Roses: (1) At St. Albans on 23rd (?) May, 1455; (2) on
+Bernard's Heath, St. Albans, 17th February, 1461; (3) near Chipping
+Barnet, 14th April, 1471; these battles are mentioned more fully in the
+Sections on St. Albans and Barnet.
+
+The residence of the Princess Elizabeth at Ashridge Park and her
+subsequent captivity at Hatfield up to the time of her accession (1558)
+may be here mentioned, but the more casual visits of monarchs are
+referred to as occasion requires.
+
+The county was not the scene of any considerable engagement during the
+great Rebellion; but the Parliamentary troops are held responsible for
+much ecclesiastical sacrilege at St. Albans, Hitchin and elsewhere, and
+it was from Theobalds that Charles I. set out to meet his army in 1642.
+In 1647, when a prisoner in the care of Cornet Joyce, he was taken from
+Leighton Buzzard to Baldock and from thence to Royston. The march of
+Cromwell from Cambridge to St. Albans towards the end of the war is
+recorded rather too literally on the interior of several churches.
+
+Of importance in history was the Rye House Plot (1683), a carefully laid
+but abortive scheme to murder Charles II. and James, Duke of York, on
+their way to London from Newmarket. (See Rye House.)
+
+
+IX. ANTIQUITIES
+
+The antiquities of Hertfordshire have been carefully studied and well
+repay the labour that has been bestowed upon them. A few words under
+several heads will suffice to show that the subject is a large one.
+
+1. _Prehistoric._--_Paleolithic_ man--in whom we are all so interested,
+but of whom we know so little--must have dwelt in Hertfordshire for a
+long period, a period to be measured by centuries rather than by years.
+Perhaps, however, the word "dwelt" is hardly appropriate here; for
+doubtless, for the most part, the rude flint-shaper and skin-clad hunter
+roamed at random over this tract of land wherever necessity led him. It
+is usual to speak of him as a troglodyte, or cave-dweller, but the caves
+of Hertfordshire are, and probably _were_ few, and his life in such a
+district would therefore be more than usually nomadic. As is often the
+case, we find traces of him in the river-valleys more frequently than
+elsewhere, and it is in beds of clay, conjectured to be of lacustrine
+origin, that we find those rudely shapen flint nodules which served him
+for tools. Such implements have been found in the Valley of the Gade by
+Sir John Evans, K.C.B.; in more central neighbourhoods by Mr.
+Worthington G. Smith; and many axes, knives, etc., were discovered only
+a few years ago near Hitchin. Implements of the _Neolithic_ Age are
+naturally more numerous and form in themselves an interesting study in
+the evolution of manual skill. Flint axe-heads, wonderfully polished,
+have been found at Albury, Abbot's Langley, Panshanger and Ware; chipped
+flints of more fragmentary character have been found near St. Albans and
+elsewhere; flint arrow-heads were discovered at Tring Grove nearly 170
+years ago. The great number of natural flints found in the county make
+it very difficult to recognise these archæological treasures, many of
+which must thus escape detection and be destroyed. Some details of the
+discovery of Prehistoric implements are given in the Gazetteer.
+
+2. _Pre-Roman._--The earliest inhabitants of Hertfordshire in times more
+or less "historic" were of Celtic blood; these, after a settlement of
+considerable duration, were driven out by Belgic invaders, of whom the
+Cassii, or Cateuchlani, seem to have been one of the most powerful
+tribes. The Cassii, who shared at least a part of the district with the
+Trinobantes, were numerous and war-like when Cæsar invaded Britain;
+their chief, Cassivellaunus, is believed to have lived near what is now
+St. Albans. He was chosen as leader by the British, and offered stout
+resistance to the Romans, but was driven back and his capital--wherever
+it was--stormed and captured. Earth works, supposed to have been erected
+by these Pre-Roman inhabitants, still remain at Hexton, Ashwell, Great
+Wymondley, Tingley Wood, and elsewhere, but are rapidly disappearing in
+the general obliteration of ancient landmarks. Grymes-dyke, still to be
+traced on Berkhampstead Common, is the most famous; but many others are
+marked in a map prepared by Sir John Evans. Some of these are hardly
+more than conjectural sites; a few will be mentioned in the Gazetteer.
+Bronze Celts of many kinds are in the possession of Mr. W. Ransom,
+F.S.A.; some of these were found at Cumberlow Green. Relics of the
+Bronze Age in the county include two bracelets of gold found at Little
+Amwell; and many narrow hatchets, or palstaves, from the neighbourhood
+of Hitchin.
+
+To the Late Celtic Period belong the imperfect iron sword-blade, in a
+bronze sheath, discovered at Bourne End and now in the British Museum;
+also the two bronze helmets, one from the neighbourhood of Hitchin, and
+one from Tring. At Hitchin, too, was discovered some pottery of the same
+period.
+
+3. _Roman._--Hertfordshire formed a part of the Flavia Cæsariensis of
+the Romans--the district E. of the Severn and N. of the Thames. Most
+important of their stations was the municipium at Verulamium (W. of St.
+Albans) of which some fragments of wall yet remain in the neighbourhood
+of the River Ver and the Verulam Woods; here, too, is the site of the
+only Roman theatre known in Britain (of _amphitheatres_ there are many
+remains). There were also stations at Cheshunt (Ceaster), at Braughing
+(ad Fines), at Berkhampstead (Durocobrivis?), at Ashwell, Wilbury Hill,
+etc.; there was a cemetery at Sarratt; a sepulchre at Royston. Roman
+villas have been unearthed at Purwell Mill, Abbots Langley and Boxmoor.
+The Roman coins found in the county would, if brought together, form an
+exceedingly valuable collection. They have been found in considerable
+numbers at St. Albans, Ware, Hoddesdon, Hitchin, Willian, Ashwell,
+Caldecote, Boxmoor, and many other places. Small bronze coins, known as
+_minimi_, have been recently found at St. Albans, and are now in the
+city museum. They date from after the year 345, when the earliest
+specimens of this type were struck, and are conjectured to be copies of
+coins issued under Constantius II. (337-61) and Julian the Apostate
+(361-3). On the obverse is the "Imperial Head"; on the reverse a soldier
+striking with his spear at a man on horseback. The coins, however, are
+assigned by at least one numismatist to a later date. They may have
+issued from a Romano-British mint at Verulamium. The famous Watling
+Street entered the county at Elstree and crossed it by way of St. Albans
+and Redbourn to Dunstable (Beds); the Icknield Way ran N.W. through
+Ickleford, Baldock and Royston; Akeman Street passed through Watford,
+Berkhampstead and Tring; Ermine Street, entering Hertfordshire at
+Waltham, passed through Ware and Braughing to Royston.
+
+4. _Saxon._--A few fragmentary remains at Berkhampstead, Bennington,
+Offley and Hitchin have been thought to mark the sites of the palaces of
+Mercian kings; but genuine Saxon remains are scarcely found except,
+perhaps, among the foundations of a few churches, _e.g._, St. Michael's
+at St. Albans, Standon and Wheathampstead.
+
+Mention must however be made of the story, narrated in _Archæologia_, of
+the discovery of the sepulchre of St. Amphibalus at a spot near Redbourn
+called the "Hills of the Banners". St. Alban himself appeared to a
+layman in a vision and told him where the saint's bones were to be
+found,--indeed, he is said to have himself gone thither to point out the
+spot. This was during the abbacy of Symon (1167-83). We learn from Roger
+of Wendover that the remains of St. Amphibalus were found lying between
+those of two other men; the bones of seven others were also lying close
+by. Among the relics found with the bones of the saint were two large
+knives, one of which was in his skull. We know that the holy relics were
+deemed worthy of solemn removal to the Abbey of St. Albans; his shrine
+there is mentioned in the Gazetteer.
+
+In the _Antiquary_ (vol. xi.) mention is made of the supposed discovery
+of an Anglo-Saxon burial ground in a field near Sandridge. Many bones
+and some implements were unearthed, and pronounced by local experts to
+date from Saxon times. They were buried again by some ignorant person.
+
+A bronze brooch, discovered at Boxmoor, has been assigned to "the
+latest period of true Anglo-Saxon art". A gold ornament, resembling an
+armlet, was found at the village of Park Street, near St. Albans; it is
+thought to date from A.D. 700-1000.
+
+5. _Churches._--These will be separately mentioned in due order,
+especially St. Albans Abbey, the unique meeting ground of all Styles;
+but a few sentences touching the predominant periods may be permissible
+here:--
+
+_Norman_ work is found in many places; Anstey, Bengeo, Barley, East
+Barnet, Graveley, Hemel Hempstead, Little Hormead, and Ickleford are
+largely of this period, and Norman features are mingled with later work
+at Abbots Langley, Baldock, Weston, Great Munden, Great Wymondley,
+Knebworth, Redbourn, Sarratt, and the churches of SS. Michael and
+Stephen at St. Albans. There are Norman fonts at Broxbourne, Bishop's
+Stortford (found beneath the flooring in 1869) Anstey, Buckland,
+Harpenden, Great Wymondley and Standon.
+
+_Early English_ churches are at Ashwell, Brent Pelham, Digswell,
+Furneaux Pelham, Great Munden (Norman doorway), Knebworth, Royston,
+Stevenage and Wheathampstead. Some of these, _e.g._, Digswell and
+Knebworth, are pleasantly situated and others contain features of great
+interest, but on the whole they can hardly boast of much architectural
+beauty.
+
+_Decorated_ churches are rarely found without prominent transitional
+features, the purest structures dating from that period being those at
+Flamstead, Hatfield, North Mimms, Standon, and Ware. Early Decorated
+portions are noticeable among Norman surroundings at Hemel Hempstead,
+and among Early English at Wheathampstead; Late Decorated is found with
+Perpendicular at Hitchin. Standon is the only W. porch in the county.
+Flamstead and Wheathampstead are the only churches in the county that
+have retained their original vestries, N. of the chancel.
+
+_Perpendicular_ churches are fairly numerous in Hertfordshire. Almost
+purely Perpendicular structures are those at Bishop's Stortford,
+Bennington, Broxbourne, Clothall, Hunsdon, King's Langley, Sandon, St.
+Peters (St. Albans), Tring and Watford. Churches later than
+Perpendicular cannot be mentioned as antiquities.
+
+A characteristic feature of Hertfordshire churches--rare elsewhere--is
+the narrow tapering _flèche_, or leaded spire; a feature almost wholly
+absent is the apse, which is, I believe, present only at Bengeo, Great
+Wymondley, and Amwell.
+
+
+X. CELEBRATED MEN
+
+Comparatively few really famous men have been born in Hertfordshire, but
+very many have resided in the county, or have at least been associated
+with it sufficiently to justify the mention of their names here.
+
+1. _Men of Letters._--Chaucer was clerk of the works at Berkhampstead
+Castle in the time of Richard II.; Matthew Paris, the chronicler, lived
+and wrote in the great Benedictine monastery at St. Albans; Sir John
+Maundeville, once called the "father of English prose," was, according
+to his own narrative, born at St. Albans and, if we may trust an old
+inscription, was buried in the abbey;[2] Dr. Cotton, the poet, lived and
+died in the same town, where the poet Cowper lodged with him at the
+"Collegium Insanorum". Bacon lived at Gorhambury and was buried in the
+neighbouring church of St. Michael. Bulwer Lytton lived and wrote at
+Knebworth, where he was visited by Forster, Dickens and others. George
+Chapman translated much of Homer at Hitchin, and is believed to have
+been born in that town. Young, the author of the _Night Thoughts_, was
+for many years Rector of Welwyn; his son was visited there by Boswell
+and Dr. Johnson. Macaulay was at school at Aspenden. John Scott, the
+Quaker poet, lived at Amwell; Lee, the dramatist, was born at Hatfield.
+Skelton probably stayed at Ashridge just before the Dissolution of the
+Monasteries; Sir Thomas More lived awhile at Gobions, North Mimms.
+Cowper was born at Berkhampstead. The county has been immortalised by
+Walton and Lamb in writings known to all.
+
+[Footnote 2: As most readers are aware, it is now, to say the least,
+gravely questioned whether "Sir John Maundeville" was ever more than a
+name.]
+
+2. _Divines._--Bunyan laboured and preached much in Hitchin and its
+neighbourhood; Baxter preached at Sarratt and elsewhere, and lived
+awhile at Totteridge; Isaac Watts lived for many years at Theobalds near
+Cheshunt; Philip Doddridge was at school at St. Albans. Fox, in his
+_Journal_, mentions visiting Hitchin, Baldock and other places.
+Tillotson was a curate at Cheshunt; Ken was born at Little
+Berkhampstead; Nathaniel Field, a man of prodigious learning, chaplain
+to James I., was born at Hemel Hempstead. William Penn, whom many
+considered a divine indeed, lived with his beautiful wife at Basing
+House, Rickmansworth; Godwin was an Independent minister at Ware. Ridley
+and Bonner were much in the county. Fleetwood, afterwards Bishop of
+Worcester, was Rector of Anstey; Cudworth was Vicar of Ashwell; Warham
+was Rector of Barley; Horsley was Rector of Thorley. The two Sherlocks,
+respectively Master of the Temple and Bishop of London, were Rectors of
+Therfield. Lightfoot, the Great Hebraist, was Rector of Great Munden.
+
+To classify other celebrities connected with the county would require
+almost as many headings as names. Henry Bessemer was born at Charlton
+near Hitchin; Cardinal Wolsey lived at Delamere House, Great Wymondley;
+the munificent Somers lived at North Mimms; Nicholas Breakspeare, who
+became Pope Adrian IV., was born at Abbots Langley; Piers Gaveston was
+much at Berkhampstead and was buried in the priory church at King's
+Langley; Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, lived at Theobalds
+and is buried at Hatfield; Lords Melbourne and Palmerston lived much at
+Brocket Hall, where the latter died; Sir Ralph Sadleir, statesman and
+ambassador to Scotland, who is said to have rallied the English at
+Pinkie, lived at Standon and is buried in the church.
+
+Many noble or illustrious families have resided in Hertfordshire. Some
+of the owners of old manors are mentioned in the Gazetteer; but a few
+prominent families may be here named. The Cecils have been Lords of
+Hatfield since James I. gave the manor to the first Earl of Salisbury in
+exchange for that at Theobalds. The Cowpers have resided at Panshanger
+since the erection of their castellated mansion in the Park a century
+ago by the fifth earl. The Egertons, Dukes and Earls of Bridgewater,
+lived at Ashridge; one of them, Francis, third duke, is known in history
+as "the father of British inland navigation," and another was the
+projector of the famous _Bridgewater Treatises_. The Capells, Earls of
+Essex, have owned the beautiful estate at Cassiobury Park since the
+father of the first earl obtained it by marriage during the reign of
+Charles I. The Rothschild family have an estate at Tring; Lord Ebury is
+the owner of Moor Park; Lord Lytton still owns the grand old house of
+the great novelist at Knebworth, founded nearly 350 years ago. The Earl
+of Cavan has a house at Wheathampstead; Viscount Hampden at Kimpton Hoo;
+Earl Strathmore at St. Paul's Walden Bury; the Earl of Clarenden (Lord
+Lieut. of Herts) at the Grove, Leavesden; Lord Grimthorpe lived at St.
+Albans. Gorhambury, near St. Albans, is the home of the Earl of Verulam.
+Mgr. Robert Hugh Benson lived and wrote many novels at Hare Street
+House, near Buntingford.
+
+
+
+
+DESCRIPTION OF PLACES IN HERTFORDSHIRE ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY
+
+
+Abbreviations of architectural terms:--
+  E.E.  = Early English.
+  Dec.  = Decorated.
+  Perp. = Perpendicular.
+
+ABBOTS LANGLEY (1½ mile S.E. of King's Langley Station) is a village on
+prettily wooded high ground near the river Gade. It is famous as the
+birthplace of Nicholas Breakspeare, who, having vainly endeavoured to be
+admitted as a monk in the great Benedictine monastery at St. Albans,
+studied at Paris and eventually became Pope Adrian IV. He died in 1158
+at Anagni; tradition states that he was choked with a fly whilst
+drinking. The village probably owes its name, first, to its length,
+"Langley" signifying a long land; second, to the fact that in the days
+of Edward the Confessor it was given to the Abbots of St. Albans by
+Egelwine the Black and Wincelfled[f] his wife. An entry in _Domesday_
+records that there were two mills on this manor, yielding 30s. rent
+yearly, and wood to feed 300 hogs. The Church of St. Lawrence has nave,
+aisles and clerestory; a chancel with S. aisle, and square embattled
+tower. The windows are mostly Perp., but those of the S. aisle are Dec.
+Note (1) the monument to Lord Chief Justice Raymond, died 1732; (2) the
+brasses in nave to Thos. Cogdell and his two wives, 1607, and to Ralph
+Horwode and family, 1478. Late in the reign of Henry VIII. the vicarage
+was rated at £10 per annum. An inscription in the chancel, copied in
+Chauncy, reads "Here lieth Robert Nevil and Elizabeth his wife, which
+Robert deceased the 28th of April in the year of our Lord God 1475. This
+World is but a Vanity, to Day a man, to Morrow none." Prince Charles
+held a Court at Abbots Langley during the Reign of James I.
+
+ALBURY (3½ miles E. of Braughing Station) is a village near the river
+Ash. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, dates from the fourteenth
+century; it was recently restored. There was an earlier structure so far
+back as the days of Stephen, in whose reign Robert de Sigillo gave the
+profits of the church at _Eldeberei_ to Geoffery, first Treasurer of St.
+Paul's Church, London. An interesting will, dated 4th November, 1589,
+records that Marmaduke Bickerdy, Vicar of Aldebury, gave an acre of land
+in the neighbourhood to provide a sum for distribution among the poor on
+every Good Friday. In the chancel the mutilated effigies of a man and
+woman are said to represent Sir Walter de la Lee and his wife. Sir
+Walter sat in nine Parliaments in the interests of the county--at
+Westminster, Northampton and Cambridge, and was Sheriff of Herts and
+Essex. He died during the reign of Richard II. _Albury Hall_, close by,
+is a fine old mansion, where the "Religeous, Just and Charitable" Sir
+Edward Atkins, Knight, and Baron of the Exchequer, died in 1669. The
+village is usually a quiet spot, with little business, but it is
+pleasantly situated; the proximity of the river and some scattered
+cottages and farms enhance its attractiveness.
+
+_Albury End_ is a small hamlet about 1 mile S.W. of Albury.
+
+[Illustration: THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY]
+
+ALDBURY (1½ mile E. from Tring Station) is a village on the
+Buckinghamshire border, nestled in a beautiful valley close to Ashridge
+Park (_q.v._). It is the "Clinton Magna" of _Bessie Costrell_, and the
+author of that story, Mrs. Humphrey Ward, lived at _Stocks_, a few
+minutes' walk from the village. On the Tring side Aldbury is sheltered
+by swelling fields and to the E. beech woods cover the hillside, which
+is topped by the "Aldbury Monument," a granite column about 100 feet
+high erected to the memory of Francis, third Duke of Bridgewater, whose
+labours and enterprise for the extension of canals earned for him the
+well-known title "the father of inland navigation". As a village of the
+Old English type Aldbury has perhaps no equal in the county. In the
+centre is the green and pond, under the shadow of an enormous elm; close
+by stand the stocks and whipping-post, recently in excellent
+preservation. The Church of St. John the Baptist is E.E.; it was
+restored in 1867. Visitors should notice the old sundial on a pedestal
+in the churchyard, and the Verney Chapel, which is separated from the
+nave by a screen of stone, and contains a monument to Sir Robert
+Whittingham, who was slain at the battle of Tewkesbury. The church also
+contains memorials of the Hides and Harcourts, families who left several
+charities to the poor of the parish. In the days of Edward the Confessor
+the manor of _Aldeberie_[g] was held by one Alwin, the king's thane. The
+ascent of the wooded slope towards the Bridgewater monument takes the
+visitor through one of the most beautiful districts in the county, and a
+noble prospect stretches before him as he looks back through the beeches
+towards the village in the valley beneath.
+
+ALDENHAM (2 miles S.W. from Radlett Station M.R.) is a village
+pleasantly situated near the river Colne, reached by way of Berry Grove
+at the W. end of the village. The churchyard is locally famous for the
+tombs of a man and woman named Hutchinson, which, singularly enough,
+have been riven apart and almost destroyed by three sycamore trees about
+a century old. The Church of St. John the Baptist is largely Perp. with
+earlier portions, and is worth a visit, if only for the oaken nave-roof,
+believed to date from about 1480, and for the font of Purbeck marble,
+probably 750 years old. An object of greater interest in some eyes is
+the fine parish chest, formed from one massive piece of oak nearly ten
+feet in length, and furnished with iron clamps and hinges of great
+size; there are few finer old parish chests in England. Note also (1)
+the triple sedilia in chancel; (2) the many brasses dating from 1450,
+several of which are to the Cary family; (3) two palimpsest brasses in
+the vestry, one of which bears a portion of a mutilated inscription to
+one Long, an alderman of London, who died in 1536. The church was
+restored in 1882 by Sir A. W. Blomfield, F.S.A. _Aldenham House_,
+property of Lord Aldenham, dates from the days of Charles II., and
+stands in a park of about 300 acres.
+
+_Aldenham Abbey_, once known as Wall Hall, stands close to the parish
+church; it is about a century old, and belongs to the Stuart family.
+
+_Aldwick Farm_ is 1 mile N.E. from Marston Gate Station, L.&N.W.R.
+
+_Allen's Green_, a hamlet 2 miles N.W. from Sawbridgeworth, contains
+little of interest.
+
+_Almshoebury_ (1½ mile W. of Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is about fifteen
+minutes' walk from the ruins of _Minsden Chapel_ (_q.v._).
+
+AMWELL is a tiny hamlet 1 mile S.W. of Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.
+
+AMWELL, GREAT, a parish and village 1½ mile S.E. of Ware Station,
+G.E.R., is very prettily situated near the New River, and is known by
+name to many who have never visited the neighbourhood, for the village
+is frequently mentioned in the essays and letters of Charles Lamb. The
+church stands on a wooded slope; near by are the village stocks, the
+tiny island upon which stands a monument to Sir Hugh Myddelton, the
+projector of the New River, and the stone bearing some lines written by
+John Scott, the Quaker. The grotto constructed by the poet may still be
+seen near the railway station at Ware. The church is an architectural
+conglomeration, with several stained windows, one of which was
+contributed by the children of the parish as an Easter offering nearly
+seventy years ago. The structure was restored in 1866. There is a
+piscina in the chancel, and one in the S. wall of the nave; there are
+also two hagioscopes. "The chancel arch," writes Canon Benham, "seems to
+me Anglo-Saxon, and the chancel is a most curious apse." Thomas Warner,
+a friend of Shakespeare, and Isaac Reed, a Shakespearian commentator,
+were both buried here.
+
+_Amwell End_, once at the N.W. extremity of the parish of Great Amwell,
+is now a part of Ware (_q.v._).
+
+_Amwell, Little_ (about 1½ mile S.W. from Great Amwell), was formerly a
+liberty in the parish of All Saints, Hertford; it has formed a separate
+civil and ecclesiastical parish since 1864. The Church of Holy Trinity
+is E.E. in style; it was erected in 1863. The district is now usually
+called Hertford Heath. An interesting, pleasant ramble may be enjoyed by
+walking from Hertford to Little Amwell, Great Amwell, and thence to
+Ware, or _vice versa_.
+
+ANSTEY (about 4½ miles N.E. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) has a
+cruciform church of mixed styles: the nave is Dec., the transepts E.E.,
+the S. porch Perp. The tower rests upon four Norman arches; the font
+also is Norman. The church was restored in 1871; many features of
+architectural interest being wisely retained. The recumbent effigy in
+the recess in S. transept is thought to be that of Richard de Anestie,
+who founded the church in the fourteenth century. We learn from
+_Domesday Book_ that at the time of the Great Survey there was "pannage"
+(_i.e._ acorn woods) at _Anestie_ sufficient to feed fifty hogs, and
+that the manor was worth fourteen pounds a year. There was once a castle
+here, built soon after the Conquest, the site of which is supposed to be
+marked by the remains of a moat still to be traced in the grounds of
+_Anstey Hall_. The churchyard is entered by a covered lich-gate.
+
+_Appleby Street_ is a hamlet 3 miles N.W. from Cheshunt Station, S.E.R.,
+and about 2 miles N.W. from the village.
+
+APSLEY END (about 1½ mile S. from Hemel Hempstead Station, M.R., and 1¼
+mile S.E. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.) is an ecclesiastical parish
+near the river Gade. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, was built in E.
+Dec. style in 1871, and is well furnished and decorated. One of the
+prettiest prospects in the neighbourhood is that from Abbot's Hill, a
+fine private residence, flanked by woods. The Gade and Bulbourne Rivers
+unite, a little N.W. from the village, at a place called _Two Waters_
+(_q.v._).
+
+_Archer's Green_ is on the river Maran, about ½ a mile S.E. from Tewin
+Church and 1¾ mile N.W. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. It adjoins
+_Panshanger Park_ (_q.v._).
+
+ARDELEY, otherwise Yardley (6 miles S.W. from Buntingford Station,
+G.E.R.), is a village and parish in a purely agricultural district. It
+is famous through its connection with the Chauncy family, who resided at
+Ardeley Bury for many generations; one of them, Sir Henry Chauncy, was
+the author of a well-known history of Hertfordshire. The family monument
+is outside of the church of St. Lawrence, some existing portions of
+which date from the thirteenth century. The roofs of nave and aisles are
+noticeable for the angels which they bear, of Tudor character; visitors
+should observe, too, the early window in the restored chancel. _Ardeley
+Bury_, in the days of Sir Henry Chauncy, was an Elizabethan manor-house
+dating from about the year 1580, surrounded by a moat; it was almost
+entirely rebuilt of brick in 1815-20, when it became a castellated,
+imposing mansion. The manor of _Erdeley_ was owned by a succession of
+Saxon kings until Athelstan bestowed it upon the church of St. Paul,
+London, as recorded in Dugdale's _Monasticon Anglicanum_; it was of the
+Dean and Chapter that the Chauncys rented their estate. The river Beane
+rises near here. A stroll around Ardeley and Ardeley Bury leads the
+visitor into some of the quietest spots to be found in the county. The
+windmill on the hill above Cromer, near by, is useful as a landmark
+when threading the many winding lanes in the neighbourhood.
+
+ARKLEY (1 mile W. from High Barnet) consists chiefly of a few small
+houses at a spot once called Barnet Common. The view is extensive in
+every direction, the village (strictly speaking the chapelry) lying on
+high ground. The chapel of St. Peter was erected in 1840, the style
+being a variety of Low Gothic; a chancel (E.E.) was added in 1898, and
+has a good groined roof.
+
+ASH, river; see Introduction, Section VI.
+
+_Ashbrook_ consists of a few cottages and a beer-shop, 1 mile N.E. from
+St. Ippollit's village, and midway between Hitchin and Stevenage
+Stations, G.N.R.
+
+[Illustration: ASHRIDGE HOUSE]
+
+ASHRIDGE is in a beautifully undulating district, immediately N. of
+Berkhampstead Common, 1 mile E. from Aldbury Church and about 2 miles E.
+from Tring Station, L.&N.W.R. The present house, the seat of Earl
+Brownlow, stands in a park of about 1,000 acres, well known for the deer
+which are kept there; it was built by the first Earl of Bridgewater, or
+rather by his architect, Wyatt, in 1808-14. It is a huge structure, its
+greatest width being 1,000 feet; conspicuous portions are the turreted
+centre, some good arched doorways and the large Gothic porch. The site
+was formerly occupied by the palace of Edmund Crouchback, Earl of
+Cornwall, and by the monastery which he built, adjoining the palace, for
+the monks of the Order of Bonhommes, an Order which he himself brought
+to this country from France. The earl died here, but his bones were
+subsequently removed to Hailes Abbey in Gloucestershire. The house
+contains some fine pictures, including, in addition to works by modern
+masters, Rubens' "Death of Hippolytus," Luini's "Holy Family" and
+Titian's "Three Cæsars". In the chapel is a fine brass to John
+Swynstede, Prebendary of Lincoln, 1395. It was brought here from
+Edlesborough Church.
+
+ASHWELL is a village of considerable size on the Cambridgeshire border.
+The village is 2½ miles N.W. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R. The parish is
+very ancient, and is believed to have been the site of a British
+settlement and of a Roman station. The former theory is considered
+proved by the existing entrenchments, S.W. from the village, called
+Arbury Banks; the latter theory is supported by the fact that very many
+Roman relics, especially coins, have been discovered in the
+neighbourhood. That it was formerly a place of importance has been
+mentioned in the Introduction (Section V.); it was a town in Norman
+times, and held four fairs each year. The Rhee, a tributary of the Cam,
+rises in this village, at a spot surrounded by ash trees, and to this
+fact the parish is thought to owe its name. When Sir H. Rider Haggard
+was at Ashwell recently he was unable to say much for its agricultural
+prosperity and outlook; but in Chauncy's day the district produced "all
+sorts of excellent Grain, especially Barley, which has greatly
+encouraged the trade of Malting in this Borrough". The same writer
+mentions the stone quarry, from which he tells as that several
+neighbouring churches had been built or repaired. The Church of St. Mary
+the Virgin is mostly E.E. and is conspicuous for its spire-topped
+western tower, 176 feet high, being equal to the length of the church.
+Note (1) the large ambry in the S. aisle, once the lady-chapel, where is
+also a fragmentary reredos; (2) the curious inscriptions on the inner
+side of the tower walls, mostly undecipherable, one of which refers to
+the plague that attacked the town in the fourteenth century; (3) the
+really fine oaken pulpit, dating from the year 1627. There was formerly
+a small monastic house in the town, a cell to Westminster Abbey. From
+the village it is an open, breezy walk N. to Ashwell Common or S.E. to
+Ashwell Field, between the village and the station.
+
+ASPENDEN (1 mile S.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) may be reached
+from the Old North Road by turning to the left before entering
+Buntingford. It is a small, quiet, unimportant village; but much of it
+is picturesque and interesting. Readers will remember that Macaulay was
+at school here, and that it was the birthplace of Seth Ward,
+mathematician and bishop, a contemporary and antagonist of Thomas
+Hobbes. The church is a flint structure,--a conglomeration of many
+styles. Notable features are the Easter sepulchre in the N. wall of
+chancel, the Norman window close to it, the piscina, ambry and credence
+table, discovered during the restoration of the church by Sir A. W.
+Blomfield in 1873. There are also memorial windows to members of the
+Lushington family, and an altar tomb, under a canopy of marble, to "Sir
+Robert Clyfford" (d. 1508), who built the church porch in 1500, and to
+his wife Elizabeth. The tomb bears brass effigies of these worthies,
+which were once in the Church of St. Michael, Cornhill, but were brought
+to Aspenden at the time of the fire of London. The aisle (S.) was built
+by Sir Ralph Jocelyn in 1478. This Sir Ralph was lord of the manor; he
+is remembered in history for his sally against Thomas Nevill, when that
+adventurer attempted to rescue Henry VI. from the Tower. He was twice
+Lord Mayor of London (1464 and 1476). He died in 1478 and was buried at
+Sawbridgeworth.
+
+ASTON (2¼ miles N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) has an ancient
+church restored in 1883. There is E.E. work in parts of nave and
+chancel, but other portions are largely Perp., especially the tower,
+which is embattled. The alabaster reredos and several memorial windows
+are worth notice; nor should visitors overlook the brass at the foot of
+the chancel steps to one John Kent, his wife and ten children. This
+worthy died in 1592; he was a servant of Edward VI., Mary and Elizabeth.
+The village is scattered upon a hill a little W. from the river Beane,
+and dates from Saxon times. The manor was once owned by three men under
+the protection of Archbishop Stigand; afterwards by the Abbot of
+Reading. It fell to the Crown at the Dissolution, like so many other
+properties.
+
+_Aston Bury_ is a fine manor house of red brick, about ¾ mile S. from
+the village, formerly the property of the Boteler family. The prospect
+from the N. windows is a noble one, the district being varied and
+undulating.
+
+_Aston End_, a hamlet 1 mile N.W. from Aston, may be reached from
+Stevenage Station, G.N.R., about 2½ miles. There is little here of
+interest, but the neighbourhood is very pleasant and largely
+agricultural.
+
+_Astrope Hamlet_ (½ mile E. from Puttenham) is midway between the
+village of Long Marston and the Aylesbury Canal. It is close to the
+Bucks border.
+
+_Astwick Farm_ is 2 miles N.W. from Hatfield Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Attimore Hall_ is 1½ mile S.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Aubrey Camp_ (¾ mile S.W. from Redbourn) is conjectured to be the site
+of an early British encampment.
+
+_Austage End_ lies in the parish of King's Walden, in a purely
+agricultural district.
+
+_Ayot Green_ is about ½ mile S.E. from and in the parish of Ayot St.
+Peter's (_q.v._).
+
+AYOT ST. LAWRENCE (2½ miles N.E. from Wheathampstead Station and about
+the same distance N.W. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) has a new and an old
+church. The former is in Ayot Park, and was designed by Revett in a
+classical style. Note (1) the _Eastern_ portico, with colonnade on
+either side; (2) the memorial to Sir Lionel Lyde, Bart. (d. 1791), and
+to the architect of the church (d. 1804). The earlier structure, still
+in ruins near the middle of the village, was Dec. of an early period,
+with several singular features; the tower, however, was Perp. "The
+Windows ... have been adorn'd with curious Pictures, in stained and
+painted Glass, beyond many other Churches." The village has at different
+times been styled Eye, Aiot, Great Aiot, and Ayot St. Lawrence, and was
+a parcel of the property of Harold Godwin. _Ayot House_, standing in a
+beautiful park of 200 acres, was once the property and residence of Sir
+William Parr, brother to Catherine Parr, Queen of Henry VIII. A room in
+an older building in the rear of the present mansion was once, according
+to local tradition, the prison of Catherine Parr. There are shoes at
+Ayot House which belonged to Anne Boleyn and a hat of Henry VIII.
+
+AYOT ST. PETER'S (¼ mile N. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) lies in a pretty
+district watered by the rivers Maran and Lea. The village is small, but
+has a commodious Parish Room, containing a small library. There was a
+mill here in the time of the Great Survey, the rent of which was three
+shillings and 200 eels from the mill-pool per annum. A church, bearing
+"a short spire erected upon the tower," stood on the hill-top in
+Chauncy's day; in 1751 an octagonal structure of red brick was built by
+the rector (Dr. Freeman) some distance from the village. This church was
+demolished in 1862 and a new one built upon its site; in 1874 this
+was in turn destroyed by lightning, and in 1875 the present church of
+St. Peter, E.E. in style, was erected much nearer to the village. It
+contains a very fine pulpit, carved by Miss Bonham, of Norwood, upon
+which the figures of SS. Alban and Helen are conspicuous among others.
+There are several memorial windows, tastefully designed, one of which,
+to the memory of Mrs. I. A. Robinson, was designed by the architect (J.
+P. Seddon). A delightful stroll may be taken from the village, westwards
+to Wheathampstead or Lamer Park, or northwards to Codicote or Kimpton.
+Nightingales are plentiful in the neighbourhood; the numerous thickets,
+dense and secluded, affording excellent shelter to this shy songster.
+
+_Baas Hill_ is ¾ mile W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.
+
+_Babb's Green_ (nearly midway between Mardock and Widford Station,
+G.E.R.) is a small hamlet.
+
+_Baker's Grove_ is 1½ miles S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.
+
+[Illustration: OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK]
+
+BALDOCK, a small town in the northern extremity of the county, lies
+between the chalk hills at the junction of the Great North Road and the
+Roman Icknield Way. The malting industry is still busily pursued,
+although the town is not so exclusively devoted to it as formerly. Very
+fine barley was grown in the district before the reign of Elizabeth, and
+the horse fairs, of which there are several annually, are well attended.
+The township was founded by the Knights Templars, in whose time there
+stood a Lazar-house a little eastwards from the town. The church,
+dating from the fourteenth century, is large, and of considerable
+architectural interest. The chancel and adjoining chapels are Perp. and
+contain sedilia and piscinæ; the nave has eight bays and a lofty
+clerestory. The rood-screen is co-extensive with the width of the entire
+church; the octagonal font is of great antiquity (probably not less than
+700 years); there are several brasses, two of which are of the early
+part of the fifteenth century. Note also (1) the defaced slab, with
+Lombardic inscription to Reynaud de Argenthem, (2) the piscina-like
+recess in the N. chapel, (3) the Dec. pillars and arches of nave, (4)
+the fine old chest near rood-screen (N. chapel). Baldock has been the
+recipient of many bequests; existing charities are in the name of Roe,
+Wynne, Pryor, Cooch, Clarkson, Smith, Parker, and a few others, the
+whole aggregating a considerable annual sum. The Wynne Almshouses are in
+the spacious High Street, where are also the fine town hall and fire
+station, erected in 1896-7. Some side streets between the church and
+station are noticeable for the variety of cottage architecture which
+they display.
+
+BARKWAY (4 miles S.E. from Royston station, G.N.R.) was a village of
+some importance in the old coaching days, for it is on the main road
+from Ware to Cambridge. It was partly burnt in 1592. There are many
+quaint houses in the neighbourhood, and one or two inns seem to still
+retain something of the atmosphere of the old régime. Near the village,
+at a spot called Rokey Wood, a small bronze statue of Mars was
+discovered some years ago. It is of Roman workmanship and is now in the
+British Museum. Cyclists riding northwards or eastwards from Barkway
+will find many hills to test their powers; but the air is exceptionally
+good and the district decidedly worth visiting. The church (flint, with
+stone quoins) is Perp. with embattled and pinnacled western tower; it
+was restored in 1861. Several memorials are worth noticing: (1) marble
+sarcophagus, with bust by Rysbrach, to Admiral Sir John Jennings (d.
+1743); (2) brass on N. wall, found in the flooring during restoration,
+to Robert Poynard (d. 1561), his wives Bridget and Joan, and his four
+daughters; (3) monuments to Chester and Clinton families in chancel. The
+once annual Pedlars' Fair has been discontinued; as has also the Tuesday
+market, which dated from the days of Henry III. In Saxon times the
+village was called Bergwant, _i.e._, the way over the hill.
+
+BARLEY, a village on the Essex border, is 2 miles N.E. from Barkway, and
+lies on the same high road. The Church of St. Margaret was restored in
+1872, in fourteenth century Gothic, but the tower, which is Norman,
+still stands. During the restoration some curious jars, of ancient make,
+were found in the chancel walls, but were broken in the efforts to
+dislodge them. There is a brass to Andrew Willet, D.D., rector of the
+parish and author of _Synopsis Papismi_ (d. 1621).
+
+Some interesting data for a book on the antiquities of Barley are
+preserved in the pre-Reformation "Parish Hutch". I may mention the
+"towne house ... tyme out of mynde used and employed for the keeping of
+maides' marriages," and the "Playstoe" or "common playinge place for the
+younge people and other inhabitants of the said towne". This "towne
+house" may still be seen near the church.
+
+_Barleycroft End_ is S.E. from Furneaux Pelham (_q.v._). It almost
+adjoins that village.
+
+BARNET, EAST (½ mile from Oakleigh Park Station, G.N.R.) is surrounded
+by Middlesex except to the N.W. where it adjoins New Barnet. The old
+village is situated at the meeting of the roads from High Barnet,
+Southgate and Enfield. The Church of St. Mary the Virgin is very
+interesting; it stands on the hill-top, at a sharp bend in the road,
+about ½ mile S. from the village. It is said to have been founded about
+the year 1100 by an abbot of St. Albans; if this date is approximately
+correct this abbot must have been Richard d'Aubeny or de Albini, who
+ruled the great monastery from 1097 to 1119, and in whose day the whole
+manor (including Chipping or High Barnet) belonged to the Abbey of St.
+Albans. The structure is Early Norman, with a western tower of brick,
+through the lower portion of which the church is entered. The N. wall
+is probably the most ancient church wall in this part of the county.
+There is a lich-gate at the N. entrance to the churchyard. A son of
+Bishop Burnet, the historian, was once rector here, and is buried in the
+church. Tradition states that Thomson the poet was tutor to the son of
+Lord Binning when that nobleman lived at the old Manor House, the site
+of which is now a part of the rectory garden. Near the church, too,
+stood once a house in which Lady Arabella Stuart was confined. _Belmont
+House_ (C. A. Hanbury, Esq., D.L., J.P.) marks the site where stood
+Mount Pleasant, once the property of the Belted Will Howard, Warden of
+the Western Marches, referred to in the "Lay of the Last Minstrel".
+_Little Grove_, a house on Cat Hill (Mrs. Stern), stands where stood
+formerly the house of the widow of Sir Richard Fanshawe, Bart.,
+Ambassador to Spain in the reign of Charles I. The whole neighbourhood
+is varied and undulating; the eastern extremity of the parish touched
+the confines of Enfield Chace until late in the eighteenth century.
+
+BARNET, HIGH (formerly "Chipping Barnet" from the market granted by
+Henry II. to the Abbots of St. Albans, which was held every Monday),
+stands on the hill-top about 11 miles N.W. from London, and 9 miles S.E.
+from St. Albans. As stated above, the manor belonged to the Abbots of
+St. Albans, and Chauncy tells a story in this connection which is worth
+repeating: "Anno 18, Edw. I., the Abbot of St. Albans (Roger de Norton,
+24th Abbot) impleaded several Persons for prostrating his Ditch and
+burning his Hedges and Fences in the Night at _Bernet_; Richard
+Tykering, one of the Defendants, said, that because the Abbot enclosed
+his Pasture with Hedge and Ditch, so that he and the Tenants there,
+could not have their common, as their Ancestors were wont to have, they
+did lay open the same. The Abbot answered that they ought not to have
+Common there; but 'twas found by the Jury that the Tenants ought to have
+Common; and Judgment was given against the said Richard Tickering only
+for that he burnt the Hedge." Other squabbles between abbot and peasant
+are referred to in this book, in the section on St. Albans. The Parish
+Church of St. John the Baptist stands at the junction of the roads from
+London, Enfield and St. Albans. It has known many changes. A church
+stood upon the spot so long ago as _circa_ 1250, to which a detached
+tower was added about a century later. The body of this structure was
+almost wholly replaced by a new building, reaching to and including the
+tower, near the end of the abbacy of John de la Moote (1396-1401). The
+present church is the result of the restoration and enlargement under
+the direction of Mr. W. Butterfield, in 1875; it is of flint and worked
+stone, partly Dec. and partly Perp. The old tower was lowered
+sufficiently to form a portion of the nave and a new embattled tower
+was built, now a conspicuous landmark for many miles round. The present
+N. aisle is entirely new. The nave is clerestoried, with eight bays;
+most of the windows are of stained glass. The Ravenscroft mortuary
+chapel, adjoining the S. transept, contains many monuments, the most
+conspicuous being the altar-tomb and recumbent effigy in marble to
+Thomas Ravenscroft (d. 1630), which was formerly in the chancel. Other
+memorials are to James Ravenscroft (d. 1680) who founded and endowed the
+almshouses in Wood Street near by, called _Jesus' Hospital_, and to John
+Ravenscroft (d. 1681). Note (1) the beautifully carved font screen,
+pinnacled and crocketted; (2) the pulpit, adorned with carved figures of
+men famous in English Church history; (3) the four ancient ledgers of
+stone, two in the chapel and two in the tower-basement, all inscribed to
+members of the Ravenscroft family. The church was formerly a
+chapel-of-ease to that at East Barnet. A Roman Catholic church,
+dedicated to SS. Mary the Immaculate and Gregory the Great, stands in
+Union Street: it was built in 1850.
+
+On Barnet Common there was formerly a medicinal spring known widely as
+"Barnet Wells"; its chalybeate waters are referred to in Pepys' _Diary_,
+and more fully praised in _The Perfect Diurnall_ (1652) and _The Barnet
+Well Water_ (1800). These waters were in such repute that one John Owen,
+an alderman of London, provided £1 to be spent yearly in keeping the
+well in fit condition. Barnet Fair, which is held annually early in
+September, is attended by cattle dealers from all parts of England and
+Scotland, and by showmen and adventurers of all kinds. It is certainly
+one of the most famous horse fairs in the country. The ordinary cattle
+market is held each Wednesday.
+
+BATTLE OF BARNET.--Of this engagement, so familiar by name, very little
+is known accurately. Early in the spring of 1471, Edward IV., assisted
+in his schemes by the Duke of Burgundy, quitted Flanders, whither he had
+fled when the Earl of Warwick landed in the S. of England with
+reinforcements from Louis XI.; touched, after a difficult passage, at
+Cromer, where he heard of the resistance organised by Warwick, and
+finally landed at Ravenspurgh on the Humber. Having been joined by
+further followers at Nottingham he entered London on Holy Thursday, the
+Lancastrians offering little resistance. Warwick collected his forces,
+and the two armies met on Easter Sunday on Gladmore Common or Gledsmuir
+Heath, to the N.W. of what is now Hadley Wood. The engagement was
+desperately contested for five or six hours, with such varying success
+that some accounts relate how messengers rode to London during the day
+with the news that Edward was losing the battle. This, as it proved, was
+not the case. Chauncy repeats the old tradition that a fog gathered over
+the battle-field, that the Lancastrians slew one another in the mist
+and confusion, and that this led to the death of Warwick. It is supposed
+that the "King Maker" fell close to the spot now marked by Hadley High
+Stone. This obelisk was erected a little distance off in 1740; but was
+removed nearer to what is now thought the right position. Montacute,
+brother to Warwick, was slain at the same spot.
+
+BARNET, NEW, is a residential extension of High and East Barnet, being
+situated between the two. Indeed, the whole of "Barnet" is now almost
+merged into one; there being houses or shops almost from Hadley High
+Stone to a little S. from Cat Hill. The Station Road is a wide pleasant
+thoroughfare stretching from New Barnet Station, G.N.R., to the main
+road from London to High Barnet. The whole district is excellent ground
+for the student of modern domestic architecture, the examples of diverse
+schools and styles being endless. The stretch of valley between the
+railway and High Barnet, now largely built upon, is a new civil parish
+called Barnet Vale. On a gentle slope in the centre, off Potter's Road,
+stands the new Church of St. Mark, in which services have been held for
+twenty-four years, but which is still incomplete. _Lyonsdown_, an
+ecclesiastical district founded in 1869, is scattered over high ground
+S.W. from the station; it is almost wholly comprised of detached
+residences and is considered exceedingly healthy. There is here a good
+view, overlooking the stretch of hill and dale towards Cockfosters, New
+Southgate, and the Alexandra Palace. The Church of the Holy Trinity,
+erected in 1864, is Dec. and contains fine lancet windows to W. C. M.
+Plowden, killed in Abyssinia. There are N. and S. porches, good of their
+kind, and the apsidal chancel is well designed.
+
+_Barwick Ford_ is on the river Rib, about 2½ miles N.W. from Hadham and
+3 miles S.W. from Standon Stations, G.E.R.
+
+_Bassett's Green_ (1 mile S.E. from Walkern Church) is a small hamlet
+between Walkern Hall and Walkern Bury. There is no railway station
+nearer than 5 miles, Buntingford, G.E.R., and Stevenage, G.N.R., being
+each about that distance.
+
+_Batchworth_ is a hamlet close to Rickmansworth Station, L.&N.W.R., at
+the N.W. extremity of Moor Park (_q.v._).
+
+_Batchworth Heath_, 1½ mile S.E. from Rickmansworth, is on the Middlesex
+border.
+
+_Batlers Green_ (¾ mile from Radlett Church, and 1 mile S.W. from the
+station, M.R.) is in a pretty district, but contains little more than a
+few scattered cottages and farms.
+
+BAYFORD (3 miles S.W. from Hertford) is a parish and village on rising
+ground, near the river Lea. It has a cruciform church, E.E. in design,
+with facings of Kentish rag-stone, erected by W. R. Baker, Esq., in
+1870-1. In the chancel are seven fine lancet windows of stained glass.
+Note also (1) altar tomb and marble effigy to Sir George Knighton (d.
+1612); (2) two palimpsest brasses, one bearing a figure in half-armour
+and the other a figure in plate-armour and ring-mail skirt, of which the
+age is conjectural; (3) the fine lich-gate. In the churchyard lies
+William Yarrell, the great ornithologist (d. at Yarmouth, 1856).
+
+BAYFORDBURY stands in a beautiful park, famous for its fine cedars and
+pines, a little N. from the village. It is the seat of the lord of the
+manor, H. W. Clinton-Baker, Esq., J.P. The house was originally erected
+by an ancestor of the present owner, about 1760. Here are the portraits
+of most of the members of the Kit Cat Club, painted by Sir Godfrey
+Kneller; the MS. of the first book of _Paradise Lost_, and a collection
+of letters of great literary interest, were recently sold to America.
+
+_Bedmond_, or _Bedmont_, together with Sheppeys, forms a large hamlet 1
+mile N. from the village of Abbots Langley, and nearly 2 miles N.E. from
+King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.
+
+_Bedwell Plash_ is a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Stevenage.
+
+_Beeson's End_ is pleasantly situated near the S. extremity of Harpenden
+Common, and about 1¾ mile nearly due E. from Redbourn Station, M.R.
+
+_Bell Bar_, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is near Brookman's
+Park, and about 2½ miles N. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R.
+(Middlesex).
+
+_Bendish_ lies on high ground, 2½ miles S.W. from St. Paul's Walden
+(_q.v._). The nearest station is at Luton Hoo (Beds) about 4 miles S.W.
+
+
+BENGEO (¾ mile N. from Hertford) is a village between the rivers Beane
+and Rib; Ware Park is close by (N.E.). It is now in the borough of
+Hertford. The old church dedicated to St. Leonard, is Early Norman;
+there are very few churches of older foundation in Hertfordshire. It was
+restored at several times between 1884 and 1893. The bell in the wooden
+cote bears date 1636; a small Norman arch divides the nave from the
+chancel; there are lancets and a Perp. window in the apse. The monuments
+are mostly to local gentry. Eric, seventh Baron Reay, is buried in the
+tiny churchyard. The new church, erected on the hillside in 1855, is of
+Kentish rag. There are terra-cotta panels by Tinworth in the reredos.
+The walk from Bengeo to Hertford, past the sandy warren-hills, so
+beautifully clad with fir, larch, etc., with the Lea winding through the
+low meadows on the left, is one of the finest in the county.
+
+BENGEO (Rural) was formerly a part of the same parish as the above. Near
+by, at Chapmore End, is the Hertford County Reformatory for boys.
+
+_Bennett's End_ is the name of two small hamlets, one near Leverstock
+Green (_q.v._) and the other near Hemel Hempstead (_q.v._).
+
+BENNINGTON (4½ miles N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) was once the
+residence of Mercian kings. The village and neighbourhood are
+picturesque; the roads from Walkern, Hertford and Knebworth meet where
+a tiny triangular green is shaded by fine elms. The river Beane is 1
+mile to the W. The church is at the S. end of the village; it dates from
+the fourteenth century. The nave is wide, with clerestory; the narrow
+chancel has a chapel on the N. side. The tower is embattled, and
+contains a ring of eight bells. There are triple sedilia, and stalls of
+carved oak in the chancel; what was _once_ a holy water basin is in the
+porch. Note also (1) the oaken rood-screen, surmounted by a large cross;
+(2) the memorial to the Cæsar family (1622-61); (3) the (supposed) tomb
+of Sir John de Benstede (1432), a baron who sat in Parliament in the
+time of Edward II., as we learn from Dugdale's _Monasticon_; (4) Carved
+oak reredos. Near the churchyard a large house of red brick stands on
+the site of the castle of the Benstedes, in ruins when Chauncy wrote two
+centuries back. Bertulf, King of the Mercians, held a council here in
+850. _Bennington Park_ (1¼ mile E.) is one of three deer parks in
+Hertfordshire which figured in _Domesday Book_.
+
+BERKHAMPSTEAD (Great) an interesting town in the W. of the county, is
+situated on the little river Bulbourne, and is chiefly famous as the
+birthplace of William Cowper, who was born in the rectory on 26th
+November, 1731. The Grammar School was founded by Dr. John Incent in
+1541. The castle, of which there are still ruins close to the L.&N.W.R.,
+dates from before the Domesday Survey. Visitors must not expect to find
+a castle here such as those at Carisbroke or Lewes. The ruins, although
+of considerable extent, are fragmentary, and little more than the plan
+of this stronghold can now be traced. The moats are double to the N.W.,
+but triple elsewhere. Henry II. held a court here; and the castle was at
+times the residence of many monarchs, particularly Edward III. The Black
+Prince was a visitor here during his father's reign. The Church of St.
+Peter, on the N. side of the High Street, is by local authorities
+claimed to be larger than any parish church in the county, saving only
+St. Albans Abbey; but this distinction is also claimed for St. Mary's,
+Hitchin. The original structure was of great antiquity, dating from
+pre-Norman times; but it was wholly rebuilt early in the reign of Henry
+III. There are chantry chapels on either side of each transept; that
+called "St. John's Chantry" dates from about 1350. Among many other
+features of interest note (1) fine groined roof of northern chantries;
+(2) lancet windows in the chancel, containing fourteenth century glass;
+(3) the E. window, a memorial to the poet Cowper; (4) tablet to Ann
+Cowper, the poet's mother; (5) brass to John Raven, Esquire to the Black
+Prince; (6) altar tomb to John Sayer, head cook to Charles II.; (7)
+mosaic reredos; (8) altar tomb and effigies of Richard Torrington (d.
+1356) and Margaret his wife, in N. transept. During the restoration of
+this transept in 1881 a portion of an ancient arch was discovered.
+
+[Illustration: CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD]
+
+The Grand Junction Canal is close to the river Bulbourne, and partly for
+this reason many small industries are pursued in the town, such as the
+making of straw plait, scoops and shovels of various sorts, army
+tent-pegs, etc. The present rectory is on a small hill near the church,
+to the S. of the High Street; it stands on the site of the former house,
+in which Cowper was born, and the old well-house, called "Cowper's
+Well," may still be seen. There is a good library in the Mechanics'
+Institute. The almshouses, for six widows, were founded in 1681, by the
+John Sayer mentioned above. The Kings of Mercia are known to have
+resided and held courts here; King Whithred summoned a council to meet
+at _Berghamstedt_ in 697.
+
+BERKHAMPSTEAD, LITTLE (3 miles S. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.), has
+a stone church erected early in the seventeenth century. It has a wooden
+belfry and spire. The building was restored in 1856-7, but contains
+little of architectural or historical interest. There are, however,
+several memorials, notably the altar table in memory of Bishop Ken, born
+in the parish in 1637. On a hill N.E. from the church stands the tall
+red-brick observatory erected by John Stratton in 1789, in order, as it
+is said, that from its summit he might watch his ships in the Thames.
+The tower has been called "Stratton's Folly".
+
+_Bernard's Heath._ (See St. Albans.)
+
+_Betlow_ is a lordship of Long Marston (_q.v._)
+
+[Illustration: BISHOP'S STORTFORD]
+
+BISHOP'S STORTFORD is in the extreme E. of the county and on the Essex
+border. It is an ancient town, deriving its name from the ford over the
+river Stort, and from the fact that William I. gave the town to Maurice,
+Bishop of London. It is famous for its Grammar School, at which the late
+Cecil Rhodes, a native of the town, was educated. The site of Waytemore
+Castle, built by William I., is on a mound near the road to Hockeril,
+where a low, wide flint wall is partly surrounded by a moat. The church
+of St. Michael on Windhill is Perp.; it was restored in 1859. There was
+a former church on the same site; the present structure dates from say
+1420-40. The nave has six bays; the tower is pinnacled and has a ring of
+ten fine bells. Chauncy's book has an interesting paragraph about this
+church. "Three Gylds and a Chantry were founded in this church; the Gyld
+of St. Mary; the Gyld of St. Michael; and the Gyld of St. John Baptist;
+to which, An. 1476, Elizabeth Spycere gave Legacies, _viz._, to the two
+former 13s. 4d. a piece, to the last 40s. These Saints had their altars,
+and St. Michael his Tabernacle, on which much Cost had been bestowed;
+but the Chantry was founded in the time of Richard III. and the
+Settlement thereof cost much Money." Chancel and nave are separated by a
+screen of carved oak; the font (Norman) was discovered during the
+restoration of the church; there is a piscina in the S. aisle. The
+clerestory was added and the chancel restored in 1884; on the chancel
+floor is a brass to Lady Margaret Denny (d. 1648), "a maid of honour in
+ordinary for five years to Queen Elizabeth of blessed memory". There is
+also a memorial to Sir George Duckett, Bart. (d. 1822), who increased
+the facilities for the navigation of the Stort, which is now navigable
+by barges to the town. A cattle sale is held every Thursday, which is
+market-day. The trade in malt is still very large. We read that in old
+times a cross was erected on each of the four roads leading from the
+town. The main thoroughfares are still in the form of a cross; going
+down Windhill the visitor will find a bridge over the Stort before him,
+and a main street on either side. The town can boast several of the
+finest old inns in Herts.
+
+BOREHAM WOOD (1¼ mile N.E. from Elstree) is a large and rather prettily
+situated hamlet.
+
+_Bourne End_, 1 mile W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R., contains little
+more than an inn, a coffee-room, and a few cottages standing beside the
+Grand Junction Canal.
+
+BOVINGDON (2½ miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station) is a large village, built
+on the slopes of two hills, the centre of the village being in the
+depression between them. The church dates from the end of the eleventh
+century, but was rebuilt in 1846 in a Gothic style, with pinnacled W.
+tower. Note (1) the effigy of an armoured knight under the tower, dating
+from perhaps the middle of the fourteenth century; (2) brasses to the
+Mayne family (1621-42). Some traces of a Roman encampment and villa are
+shown on inquiry at a spot near the village.
+
+_Bowman's Green_ (¼ mile N.E. from London Colney and 2 miles S. from
+Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a tiny hamlet near the river Colne and the
+high road from Barnet to St. Albans.
+
+BOXMOOR is a village about 1½ mile S.W. from Hemel Hempstead. The Grand
+Junction Canal flows between the village and the town. From the station,
+L.&N.W.R., a motor car plies to and from Hemel Hempstead. Many Roman
+remains have been found in the neighbourhood, particularly some remains
+of two Roman villas, and many coins of the period of Diocletian. The
+church, erected in 1874, is E.E. in design, and was planned by Mr.
+Norman Shaw. It has N. and S. aisles and porches. There was an earlier
+structure on the same site. Private residences are increasing so rapidly
+that the place is now almost a suburb of Hemel Hempstead.
+
+_Boydon's Hill_ adjoins the village of Aldenham.
+
+_Bragbury End_ (1¼ mile E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+on the Great North Road.
+
+BRAMFIELD OR BRAINTFIELD (3½ miles N.W. from Hertford Station, G.N.R.)
+is a parish and village. The church is E.E., standing on the site of an
+earlier edifice; the present tower and spire were built in 1840, and the
+church itself restored in 1870. We learn from Matthew of Westminster
+that Thomas Becket held the living here as his first charge; a pond near
+the church is called "Becket's Pond". _Queen Hoo Hall_, N.W. from the
+village, is now a farmhouse, but was formerly an Elizabethan residence,
+and gave the title to a romance partly written by Sir Walter Scott. The
+neighbourhood is pleasant, and a pretty stroll may be taken either N.E.
+to Woodhall Park or S. to Panshanger Park.
+
+_Brandley Hill_ is 1 mile N.W. from Aston.
+
+BRAUGHING has a station ¾ mile S.W. from the town, on the Buntingford
+Branch of G.E.R. It is an ancient parish, the "Brachinges" of _Domesday
+Book_, and was a Roman station. The church and few streets of which the
+village consists are very picturesquely scattered on the S.W. slope of a
+hill overlooking the river Quin, at the intersection of the Roman Ermine
+Street and the road from Bishop's Stortford to Baldock. There was
+formerly a market each week, dating from the reign of Stephen; also an
+annual fair, abolished many years ago. The church, close to the
+hand-bridge over the river, is largely Perp., and contains a few
+brasses, none of which are important. It has been partially restored on
+several occasions during the last eighty years, and some of the modern
+workmanship is very good. Note (1) open tracery in carved oak screen;
+(2) oak pulpit; (3) finely carved font of Caen stone; (4) old font
+outside, near the tower. At _Cockhampstead_ (1½ mile E. from the church)
+was once an Augustinian priory.
+
+_Breachwood Green_ (about 3½ miles N.E. from Luton Hoo Station, G.N.R.,
+and 1 mile S. from King's Walden Church) is a village on high ground
+rather more than a mile from the Bedfordshire border. Pretty walks may
+be taken S.E. to Bendish or S.W. to Chiltern Green.
+
+BRENT PELHAM (1 mile from Essex border and 5 miles E. from Buntingford)
+is an interesting village, formerly called Burnt Pelham because, as
+tradition states, both village and church were destroyed by fire during
+the reign of Henry I. Traces of the fire existed in the days of Norden
+(_circa_ 1548-1626). The church--near which the old stocks may still be
+seen--is E.E., with the embattled western tower so frequent in Herts. It
+is locally famous for a tomb in the N. wall, said to mark the
+resting-place of one Piers Shonkes, a serpent slayer who lived in the
+time of William I. The tomb bears some allegorical figures, which have
+been the subject of diverse interpretations. _Pelham Hall_ (E. E.
+Barclay, Esq.), "a slight but well contrived House in this Mannor, near
+the Church," was built in 1620 by one Edward Newport. It was once owned
+by the Floyers or Flyers, a family to whose memory there are several
+memorials in the church.
+
+_Brickendon_ is now partly included in the borough of Hertford. There
+are some imposing residences in the neighbourhood.
+
+BRICKET WOOD is almost exactly midway between St. Albans and Watford;
+it consists of some cottages scattered around an extensive wood and
+common, crossed by L.&N.W.R. The station is ½ mile from the "wood,"
+which is much frequented by picnic parties, school treats, etc. The
+district is good ground for the field botanist and entomologist.
+
+_Broadfield_ (2¼ miles N.W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet near Cottered,
+on the hill N. from that village. The hall was once a much larger
+structure (engraved in Chauncy, vol. i.); it was in part rebuilt in
+1882, but still retains a portion believed to date from the fifteenth
+century.
+
+_Broadwater_ is a hamlet at the meeting of the roads from Stevenage,
+Hatfield and Hertford. The nearest station is Knebworth (1¼ mile S.).
+
+_Broadway_ (1½ mile S.E. from Berkhampstead) has a Dec. chapel-of-ease
+to the parish church. It was erected in 1854. A short walk takes one to
+the ruined chapel of St. Mary Magdalen on the Bucks border.
+
+_Bromley_ (1½ mile S.E. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) is a small hamlet.
+
+_Broomin Green_ (¾ mile S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+near the railway and ½ mile from the Six Hills. (See Stevenage.)
+
+[Illustration: BROXBOURNE CHURCH]
+
+BROXBOURNE, a large village near the river Lea and New River, is a
+favourite fishing resort. The church stands on high ground overlooking
+the mill-leat; it is a fine Perp. structure, dating from early in the
+fifteenth century. The N. chancel-chapel was built by Sir William Say,
+"in honor a ye Trenete the yere of our Lord God 1522"; his tomb is in
+the chancel. The church was restored in 1857; the roof is of fine oak
+panelling; the font, on eight pillars, is probably Early Norman. There
+are brasses to a priest holding a chalice (_circa_ 1470); to another
+priest in robes (_circa_ 1510); to Sir John Borrell, mace bearer to
+Henry VIII. (d. 1521); to Sir John Say (d. 1478), and his wife (d.
+1473). Note also (1) holy water basin near door; (2) marble effigies of
+Sir Henry Cock (d. 1609), and his wife and family; (3) shield of arms in
+centre of nave, with verses in English, bearing date 1630. From the
+church a very picturesque walk may be taken through the village, to
+Hoddesdon, by way of "Admiral's Walk," or beside the Lea past the
+grounds of the Crown Hotel. _Broxbournebury_ (Major G. R. B.
+Smith-Bosanquet, J.P.) is in the beautiful park, 1 mile W., and is a
+large imposing mansion in Jacobean style. In Church Fields and on the
+London Road are large rose-nurseries, producing an immense number of
+roses yearly. The neighbourhood is one of the most pleasant in the
+county.
+
+BUCKLAND (3 miles N. from Buntingford, on the Royston Road) has an E.E.
+church, built by Nicholas de Bokeland in 1348. The piscina at the E. end
+of the S. aisle marks the site of what was formerly the lady-chapel. The
+font is very possibly anterior to the Conquest; it is a roughly hewn
+mass of Barnack stone. The low window in the S. wall of the chancel was
+opened out during some renovations, and is thought to have been
+connected with a confessional, as a coloured figure of the Virgin was
+discovered on the wall. The theory, however, may be dismissed as purely
+mythical. There is a brass to William Langley, a rector of the church
+(d. 1478); a low-relief medallion by Chantrey to William Anthony (d.
+1819), and a brass to one of the Boteler family (1451). The interior was
+restored in 1875; the new W. door, of oak, was added in 1881.
+
+_Buck's Hill_ (2 miles S.W. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a
+pretty hamlet. The nearest parish church is about 1¼ mile N.E. at
+Chipperfield (_q.v._).
+
+BULBOURNE, river. (See Introduction.)
+
+_Bull's Green_ is 2¼ miles N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Bull's Mill_ is 2½ miles N. from Hertford.
+
+BUNTINGFORD, a small town on the river Rib, on the Royston-Cambridge
+Road, consists chiefly of the long High Street and of a few small
+by-ways, E. by the river side, and W. on the roads to Aspenden and
+Cottered. Standing across the High Street is the cruciform church of St.
+Peter, built in 1614-26 as a chapel-of-ease to Layston (_q.v._). An old
+brass tablet still preserved represents the holding of a Divine service
+in the church before completion. There is also a portrait of Seth Ward
+(see Aspenden); the almshouses a few yards W. were founded by him in
+1684. "This town," wrote Chauncy, "is of small antiquity, for there is
+no mention of it in Domesdei Book, neither can I find anything of it
+before Anno. 21. Edwd. III., when that King did grant one Market every
+Week, and one Fair every Year in Buntingford, to Elizabeth de Burgo and
+her Heirs, reserving the Yearly Rent of 6d." At the N. end of High
+Street is the old pound. _Corney Bury_ (½ mile N.) is a fine old manor
+house. Little of historic importance is to be gleaned in the town, but a
+ramble from end to end is interesting by reason of the many quaint inns
+and cottages, of all ages and styles, which meet the eye at every turn.
+
+_Burnham Green_ is a hamlet 1¼ mile N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Bury Green_ (1½ mile W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a small
+hamlet near Theobald's Park; also
+
+_Bury Green_, a hamlet 2½ miles W. from Bishop's Stortford.
+
+_Bury Hill and Bury Mill._ (See Hemel Hempstead.)
+
+_Bury Stede._ (See Hexton.)
+
+_Bush Barrow_ is 1¼ mile N. from Wallington, on Metley Hill, midway
+between the village and the Icknield Way.
+
+BUSHEY is a large village, now practically the S.E. suburb of Watford.
+The station (L.&N.W.R.) is in the hollow between the village itself and
+High Street, Watford; cyclists must be careful of the descent towards
+that town. Near the centre of the village is a small green and pond, and
+here stands the partly Dec. church of St. James, rebuilt in 1871 by Sir
+Gilbert Scott. The E.E. window, triple lancet, is to the memory of
+Edwards Marjoribanks of the Hall (d. 1879) and his wife. Silas Titus,
+whose name is remembered for his supposed authorship of the notorious
+pamphlet _Killing noe Murder_, was born at Bushey and buried in this
+church; there is a headstone to his daughter in the graveyard.
+
+BUSHEY HEATH (1 mile S.E. from the above) is on the Middlesex border. It
+is now an ecclesiastical district, formed in 1889; the church, an E.E.
+brick structure, dates from 1838; the porches were added in 1882. The
+district is very healthy.
+
+_Bushey, Little_, is E. from Bushey Heath, which it almost joins.
+
+_Bushey Mill_ is on the river Colne, ¾ mile N.E. from Watford Junction.
+
+_Butchery Green._ (See Hertford.)
+
+BYGRAVE (1¾ mile N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.) has a small church
+built of clunch from the Ashwell pits near by. It dates from perhaps
+1320. Note (1) octagonal font (about 1420-40), (2) slab on floor to a
+former rector, a Huguenot (d. 1725), and (3) the piscina in chancel.
+Close by, at the Manor House, are the remains of some moats constructed
+five centuries ago by the resident knight, Sir John Thornbury, because
+of the many marauders that infested the neighbourhood. The place was
+once a market-town; the market, granted by Henry III., was held each
+Monday. The village lies on high ground, a few minutes' walk N. from the
+Icknield Way.
+
+CALDECOTE (about 3 miles N.N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.) has a
+Perp. church of rubble, containing a few memorials, a very finely
+canopied holy water basin, and a font dating from, say, 1480.
+
+_Caldicot Hill_ is 1 mile E. from Bushey Heath, on the Middlesex border.
+
+CASSIOBURY PARK. (See Watford.)
+
+_Catlip_ is a hamlet near Chorley Wood Station, Met.R.
+
+_Chandler's Cross_ (2½ miles S.W. from King's Langley Station,
+L.&N.W.R.) is a small hamlet.
+
+_Chapmore End_ is 2½ miles N. from Hertford.
+
+_Chelsing_ is near the river Rib, 3 miles N. from Ware.
+
+_Cherry Green_ (1 mile S.W. from West Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a small
+hamlet.
+
+CHESHUNT, according to Grose's _Antiquities_, the _Durolitum_ of
+Antoninus, is a large parish which contains much of interest. Its
+ancient names, Cestre, Ceaster, Cestrehunt, leave little doubt that it
+was a Roman station.[3] At Roman Urn Inn, near the station, G.E.R., is
+an urn imbedded in the wall; it was discovered close by some years ago,
+and is probably of Roman manufacture. Cheston, yet another old name of
+this spot, has been thought to be derived from the chestnut trees once
+plentiful in the neighbourhood, of which many of the houses were built.
+William I. gave the manor to Alan the Red, Earl of Brittany, and it
+remained an appendage to that earldom for a long time. Edward III.
+granted a weekly market to be held in the town every Monday. The Church
+of St. Mary the Virgin was built in 1420 by Nicholas Dixon, who held the
+living of Cheshunt for thirty years. It is Perp., entirely embattled;
+the W. tower has an octagonal cupola. Restoration was carefully effected
+during 1872-4, under Mr. G. F. Bodley. The rood-screen, lectern and
+pulpit are of carved oak, all comparatively new. The memorials are very
+numerous; amongst them may be noted (1) brass on chancel floor to the
+above-mentioned Nicholas Dixon (d. 1448); (2) brass to William Pyke (d.
+1449); (3) two female effigies, 1500-20; (4) altar tomb in chancel to
+Robert Dacres, Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. There are windows of
+stained glass to a former vicar (d. 1858); to General Miles (d. 1860),
+and, in the tower, to one Robert Archer, for thirty-six years parish
+clerk. N. from the main street, near the river Lea, stood a small
+Benedictine nunnery. It originally belonged to the Canons of Cathele,
+but Henry III. turned them out and gave the property and rights to the
+"Prioress and Nuns of Cesthont". The college, a famous institution,
+stands near the church; it was founded in 1768 by Selina, Countess of
+Huntingdon, at Trevecca, near Talgarth, S. Wales, and removed to
+Cheshunt after her death. A few years ago it was bought by the Church of
+England, for use as a theological college. Close by, too, is the site of
+Pengelly House, once the home of Richard Cromwell. Cheshunt Park (1 mile
+N.) is full of memories of the Cromwells and the Russells. The Great
+House, near Church Gate, was one of the many residences of Cardinal
+Wolsey. Both the house and the moat are still preserved.
+
+[Footnote 3: Chauncy writes: "This Vill in old Records was called
+Cestrehunt, from Castrum in the Latin, which might, in all Probability,
+import some castle erected here by the Romans; and the Saxons imitating
+the name, though corruptly ... might from hence call it Cestrehunt".]
+
+CHESS, river. (See Introduction.)
+
+_Cheverell's Green_ (1½ mile N.W. from Flamstead, and about 4 miles N.W.
+from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet and green adjoining
+Beechwood Park.
+
+_Childwick Green_ is 1 mile S. from Harpenden Common, and 2½ miles N.
+from St. Albans.
+
+CHIPPERFIELD (2½ miles W. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) was
+made an ecclesiastical parish in 1863. The small church on the common,
+E.E. in style, built in 1837, is of little interest. There is a good
+lich-gate at the N. entrance to the churchyard. The neighbourhood is
+pleasant and varied.
+
+_Chipping_ (2 miles N. from Buntingford) is a small village on the
+Royston Road.
+
+_Chivesfield (or Chesfield)_ is 2 miles N.E. from Stevenage Station,
+G.N.R. It is locally famous for its ruined church. One John Wykins
+was rector here as early as 1323. The windows were partly destroyed in
+1642. Some interesting memorials were extant in Chauncy's day, and are
+mentioned in the second volume of his _Antiquities_.
+
+[Illustration: CHORLEY WOOD COMMON]
+
+CHORLEY WOOD, a village 2½ miles N.W. from Rickmansworth, has a station
+on the Met.R. near the Amersham Road. The church, E.E. in style, dates
+from 1845, but was largely rebuilt in 1870. William Penn, the Quaker,
+was married here. There are many pretty walks through the Valley of the
+Chess, which flows between the village and Sarratt (_q.v._).
+
+_Church End_ is a small hamlet in the parish of Albury, 3 miles E. from
+Braughing Station, G.E.R.
+
+_Clapgate_, a hamlet on the river Ash, is close to Church End.
+
+_Clay End_ (1½ mile S.E. from Walkern) is about equidistant--5
+miles--from Stevenage or Westmill Stations.
+
+_Clay Hill_ is on the high road between Bushey and Bushey Heath
+(_q.v._).
+
+CLOTHALL (2¼ miles S.E. from Baldock) has an interesting church, chiefly
+Perp., on a gentle hill. There is a good brass in the chancel to John
+Vynter, first rector of the church (d. 1404), and one to John Wright,
+Master of Trinity College, Cambridge, also rector here (d. 1519). On the
+S. of the church is a small Dec. chantry chapel. Note also a sixteenth
+century brass to the wife and sixteen children of William Bramfield of
+Clothall. The Saxons are said to have called the spot Cley Hall, because
+it stood on a hill of clay. Clothall Bury is a little to the E.
+
+_Cockernhoe Green_ is 2½ miles S.W. from Offley, and 2½ miles N.E. from
+Luton Station (Beds).
+
+_Cockhampstead_ (2 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) is near
+Albury Hall.
+
+CODICOTE (3 miles N.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) is a large village
+on the Welwyn-Hitchin Road, with a pleasant heath a little W. The Church
+of St. Giles is an ancient structure, E.E., restored in 1853; it stands
+in a field ½ mile N. from the village. The S. chapel dates from 1312.
+The embattled W. tower is a fine structure. There are several memorial
+windows, comparatively modern.
+
+COLE GREEN has a station on the G.N.R. branch line from Hatfield to
+Hertford. From the station little is to be seen except the Cowper's Arms
+and a few cottages.
+
+_Coleman's Green_ (1½ mile S.E. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.) is
+prettily situated near the "Devil's Dyke" and Brocket Hall. John Bunyan
+sometimes preached in a cottage here; a large chimney-stack, bearing an
+inscription, still marks the spot, unless quite recently removed.
+
+_Collier's End_ is on high ground, on the Old North Road, 2 miles S.W.
+from Standon Station, G.E.R. It is a very typical English hamlet.
+
+COLNE, river. (See Introduction.)
+
+COLNEY HEATH (1 mile S. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is an
+ecclesiastical parish. The brick church (1844) is in Byzantine style; it
+has an apsidal chancel, and small N. porch and tower. The new West Herts
+County Asylum is close by.
+
+COLNEY STREET, on the main road from Radlett to St. Albans, forms an
+almost equilateral triangle with Park Street and Bricket Wood Stations,
+L.&N.W.R. It is only a few minutes' walk from the pretty church at
+Frogmore (_q.v._).
+
+_Common Moor_ may be visited from Croxley Green (¾ mile N.E. from
+Rickmansworth) for an inspection of its large paper mill.
+
+_Cooter's End_ is a tiny hamlet close to the M.R. on the Bedfordshire
+border.
+
+_Corey's Mill_, a hamlet 1 mile N. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R., is
+named from an old mill, burnt in 1878.
+
+COTTERED (3 miles W. from Buntingford) has a fine old church (Perp.).
+There is a chapel on the N. side of the chancel erected by Edward
+Pulter; the W. tower is embattled and carries a lofty spire. Several
+memorials to the Pulter and Forester families are of the seventeenth
+century. The church was restored in 1886. In the days of William I. the
+_vill_ of Chodrei belonged to Walchelin, Bishop of Winchester. _Cottered
+Lordship_, a farmhouse near the village, is one of the very oldest
+dwellings in the county. The writer is assured by an expert that the
+front door dates from 1450-80!
+
+_Cromer_, a hamlet 5 miles S.W. from Buntingford, is prettily situated
+in a valley, in a purely agricultural district.
+
+_Cromer Hyde_ (1½ mile S. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) consists of a
+farmhouse, the Chequer's Inn, and a few old and picturesque cottages.
+The nearest church is ½ mile S.E. at the corner of Brocket Hall Park.
+
+_Croxley Green_ (¾ mile N.E. from Rickmansworth) is an ecclesiastical
+parish near the river Chess. The church, built fifty years ago, is late
+E.E. in style and has some good memorial windows.
+
+_Cuffley_ is a small hamlet about midway between Cheshunt and Potter's
+Bar (Middlesex) Stations, but a little N. from the straight line. The
+Church of St. James at Goff's Oak (_q.v._) is 1 mile E.
+
+_Cumberlow Green_ is 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford.
+
+_Currants Bottom_, on the Bucks border, is close to Chorley Wood
+Station, Met.R.
+
+_Dane End_, or Munden Street, is 4 miles S.W. from Standon Station,
+G.E.R. The nearest church (½ mile N.) is at Little Munden.
+
+_Dane End_, 4 miles S. from Royston, is close to the Old North Road.
+There are a few cottages and two farms.
+
+_Dassells_ is a hamlet on the Old North Road, 1 mile E. from Westmill
+Station, G.E.R. The little river Quin flows close by.
+
+DATCHWORTH (1½ mile S.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) has a church
+with some Norman portions. Its spire is conspicuous for miles round. The
+larger portion is, however, Dec. Note (1) some good stained glass
+windows in chancel; (2) chalice dated 1630. The church was restored in
+1869-70. The place is very ancient; we read that four hides of land at
+_Decewyrth_ were granted by an early Saxon king to the Monastery of St.
+Peter at Westminster, and that in the reign of Edward III. Thomas de la
+Mere, Abbot of St. Albans, transferred the patronage of this church to
+the king.
+
+_Dean End_ (¾ mile S. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet.
+
+_Delamore End_ is ½ mile E. from Flamstead, and near the high road to
+Dunstable. The nearest railway station is Redbourn, 2½ miles S.E.
+
+_Digswell_, a village on the river Maran, is ½ mile S.W. from Welwyn
+Station, G.N.R. Looking E. the visitor will notice the Great Northern
+Viaduct over the Maran Valley--a truly magnificent structure of forty
+arches. The church, beautifully situated on the hill, is[h] E.E. It
+contains a large but much mutilated brass to John Perient, Master of the
+Horse to Joan of Navarre and Esquire to Richard II., Henry IV. and Henry
+V. This interesting inscription being much defaced I will transcribe
+from Chauncy: "Hic jacet Johannes Perient, Armiger pro corpore Regis
+Richardi Secundi, et Penerarius ejusdem Regis, et Armiger. Regis Henrici
+Quarti, et Armiger etiam Regis Henrici Quinti et Magister Equitum
+Johannæ, filiæ Regis Navarr, et Regiæ Angliæ qui obiit--et Johanna uxor
+ejus quondam capitalis Domicilla--quæ obiit 24 Aprilis Anno Dom. 1415."
+Note also brasses (1) to John Perient, son of the above (d. 1442); (2)
+William Robert, auditor of the diocese of Winchester (d. 1484); (3) to a
+civilian, his wife, and ten children (_circa_ 1530); (4) to Thomas
+Hoore, a mercer of London, his wife, and twelve children. The church was
+restored in 1872.
+
+_Digswell Water_ is a hamlet ½ mile E. from Digswell Church, and close
+to Welwyn Station.
+
+_Down Green_ is ½ mile W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Driver's End_, a hamlet 2 miles W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R., is
+on the S.W. confines of Knebworth Park. One mile S. is the village of
+Codicote. The neighbourhood is very pleasant.
+
+_Dudswell_, a few cottages on the Grand Junction Canal, is ½ mile N.W.
+from Northchurch village, and 2 miles N.W. from Berkhampstead Station,
+L.&N.W.R.
+
+_East End_ (1 mile S.E. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.) is between
+Panshanger Park and the River Lea. There is also a hamlet of the same
+name on the Essex border, about 5 miles N.E. from Braughing Station,
+G.E.R.
+
+EASTWICK (1 mile N.W. from Burnt Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a parish near
+the Essex border, on the river Stort. The church, rebuilt in 1873, is in
+E.E. style. It is locally famous for its recumbent statue of a knight in
+chain armour, resting on a raised slab; the legs are crossed. There is
+neither date nor name; but it has been surmised (1) that the crossing of
+the legs shows that he was probably a crusader, (2) that the effigy
+dates from early in the thirteenth century and represents a member of
+the De Toni or De Ros family. The former conjecture is undoubtedly
+erroneous. There is a piscina in the chancel.
+
+ELSTREE, formerly Idlestree, is a large village beautifully situated on
+the Middlesex border; the station (M.R.) is to the N.E. at Boreham Wood.
+At the N. end of the street a fine view stretches in the direction of
+Radlett and St. Albans. The Church of St. Nicholas was founded by the
+Benedictine monks of St. Albans in the fourteenth century; the present
+structure is Dec. and dates from 1853. The monuments are unimportant;
+but the wrought-iron chancel screen, designed by Sir A. W. Blomfield, is
+worthy of careful scrutiny, as is also the vestry screen of carved oak.
+The five-light E. window was presented by the pupil of a former rector,
+John Morris, D.D. (d. 1848), to whom it is a memorial. In the old
+churchyard, closed some years ago, was buried the notorious robber and
+reputed murderer William Weare, who was murdered by Thurtell on Gill's
+Hill, 2½ miles N.W., in 1823. Here, too, was buried Martha Reay, whose
+life was a chronicle of crime; she was mistress to the Earl of Sandwich,
+and was killed on leaving Covent Garden Theatre, in 1779. There is
+excellent fishing to be had at Elstree Reservoir, a little W., in
+Aldenham parish. Some archæologists have thought that the Roman city
+_Sulloniacæ_ occupied (approximately) the site on which Elstree stands,
+and Norden lent his authority to this hypothesis; but there is little
+doubt that Brockley Hill near Edgware more closely corresponds in
+position with the city mentioned in the _Itinerary_ of Antoninus.
+
+_Epping Green_, a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Little Berkhampstead, is at
+the N. end of Punsborne Park. The nearest station is Cole Green
+(G.N.R.), nearly 4 miles N.W.
+
+ESSENDON is a pretty village on rising ground overlooking the Valley of
+the Lea, 2 miles S. from Cole Green Station. The church, standing in the
+park, was rebuilt in 1883; it was probably founded as early as the
+twelfth century. It is now of flint, dressed with ancaster stone. Note
+(1) alabaster monument to William Priestly (d. 1664); (2) brass and
+effigy of William Tooke, auditor of the Court of Wards and Liveries (d.
+1588); (3) shields from the tomb of Henry Courtenay, son of Henry,
+Marquess of Exeter; (4) chalice bearing date 1570, given to the church
+by Elizabeth Reynes; (5) Baskerville Bible presented by the First
+Marquess of Salisbury. During restoration several slabs to the Tooke
+family (1635-55) were discovered. _Essendon Place_ (David Citroen, Esq.)
+is a fine house in a park of 100 acres; and _Bedwell Park_ (C. G.
+Arbuthnot, Esq.) should be visited, by special permission, to view the
+Belvedere Collection, including one of Murillo's many "Assumptions".
+
+_Exnells_, near the river Ash, is a small hamlet 2 miles N.E. from
+Hadham Station, G.E.R.
+
+_Fanham Hall_ is 1 mile N.E. from Ware.
+
+_Fisher's Green_ (½ mile N.W. from Stevenage) is a small hamlet.
+
+_Flamstead_ (2½ miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) lies on high
+ground near the river Ver. The name is a corruption of Verlamstead, the
+river having formerly been called the "Verlam". The church is in the
+centre of the village; it is a large Dec. structure dating from the
+fourteenth century; the nave is of six bays, with fine octagonal
+pillars. The tower is very large and massive. Note (1) piscina in W.
+wall of vestry, once a chapel; (2) piscina in chancel; (3) finely carved
+oak chancel screen, dating from fifteenth century but restored in 1893;
+(4) mutilated altar-tomb in nave, carved and crocketted, but bearing no
+inscription, it is probably not later than 1400-20; (5) marble monument,
+with Ionic columns, to Thomas Saunders of Beechwood; (6) brass to John
+Oudeby, rector of the church (d. 1414); (7) effigy in armour to Sir
+Bartholomew Fouke, Kt., for many years Master of the Household to Queen
+Elizabeth (d. 1604). At _Beechwood Park_, so called because of the many
+fine beeches in the neighbourhood, was once a Benedictine Nunnery. The
+walk from Flamstead to Great Gaddesden, by way of Beechwood Park (about
+6 miles), is very picturesque.
+
+_Flamstead Bury_ is 1 mile W. from Redbourn Station, M.R., and midway
+between the N. end of the village and a spot called Heaven's Gate.
+
+_Flamstead End_ (1½ mile N.W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a
+considerable hamlet.
+
+_Flaunden_ (4 miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a village
+and parish on the Bucks border, with the river Chess 1¼ mile S. The
+present church is modern, and local folk claim that it is the first
+built by the late Sir Gilbert Scott. The font, and a few tiles, etc.,
+were brought here from the old church at Flaunden Bottom near Chenies,
+some ruins of which still remain. Chauncy tells us that Flaunden
+belonged to the manor of Hemel Hempstead, that it was granted to one
+Thomas Flaunden, who built a small church in the valley near the river
+(Chess) with a small tower of timber at the W. end. Spiritual offices
+were performed by a curate supplied from Hemel Hempstead, who served
+Bovingdon and Flaunden by turns as duty required.
+
+_Folly, The_ (a small hamlet 1 mile N.W. from Wheathampstead Station,
+G.N.R.), is passed on the way to Harpenden or Mackery End. A little
+farther W. is Batford Mill on the river Lea.
+
+_Frithsden_ (or _Friesden_), a hamlet 2 miles N.E. from Great
+Berkhampstead, stands in a beautiful district, with Ashridge Park to the
+N.W. The nearest church is at the pretty village of Nettleden (_q.v._)
+½ mile N.E. High Park Road, Evesden Wood, Marigold Wood, Holly Bush Wood
+and Frithsden copses are all adjacent and may be visited during an
+hour's ramble.
+
+FROGMORE (¾ mile S.E. from Park Street Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a hamlet
+between the villages of Park Street and Colney Street. The church is
+modern, in late Norman style; it stands close to the high road from
+Radlett to St. Albans. There are several memorial windows to local
+persons. The village flower show has been held for many years in July,
+and is well patronised and widely known. The river Colne flows between
+this hamlet and Park Street Station.
+
+FURNEAUX PELHAM (4 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) has an
+interesting E.E. and Perp. church. One of the six bells in the embattled
+W. tower dates from before the Reformation; it bears, in black-letter,
+the words "Sancta Katarina ora pro nobis"; upon the clock in the tower
+are the words: "Time flies. Mind your business." Note (1) piscina and
+sedilia in chancel; (2) piscina in each aisle; (3) Newport Chapel
+adjoining S. aisle, built by the Robert Newport whose brass and effigy
+is in the nave (d. 1518); (4) brass (mutilated) in chapel, representing
+two figures, _temp._ Richard II.; (5) ambry (lancet headed) in chancel;
+(6) three ancient stone coffins, discovered during restoration, one
+bearing the words: "Simonis de Furneaux Filius". The De Furneaux were a
+Norman family, to whom the village owes its name: Simon de Furneaux was
+lord of the manor in the reign of Edward I. Close to the church is
+_Furneaux Pelham Hall_ (recently unoccupied), a fine Elizabethan mansion
+whose owners suffered several misfortunes during the civil wars.
+
+GADDESDEN, GREAT (3 miles N.W. from Hemel Hempstead), is a village on
+the river Gade at the foot of the hill that leads to Nettleden. The
+church is close to the river side, and immediately behind the _Cock and
+Bottle Inn_. It is an ancient structure of "Roman bricks" and flint
+(E.E.), believed to date from, say, 1290; the tower was rebuilt in 1862.
+There are many memorials to the Halsey family, but few others of any
+interest. _Gaddesden Place_, in a park ½ mile E., is the seat of Rt.
+Hon. T. F. Halsey, Esq., D.L., J.P. It was built from designs by Wyatt,
+in 1774, in an Italian style.
+
+GADDESDEN, LITTLE (4 miles N. from Berkhampstead Station, L.&N.W.R.), is
+a straggling village on the confines of Ashridge Park. Pretty cottages
+and tastefully planned gardens meet the eye everywhere. The church is
+Perp. and contains many monuments to the Egerton family, Earls of
+Bridgewater: (1) Sir John Egerton, Kt. (d. 1649); (2) Lady Frances,
+Countess of Bridgewater (d. 1635); (3) John, Viscount Brackley, Lord of
+the Privy Council (d. 1686); (4) Elizabeth, Countess of Bridgewater, a
+"transcendently virtuous lady" of "beauty so unparallel'd that 'tis as
+much beyond the art of the most elegant pen, as it surpasseth the skill
+of several of the most exquisite pencils ... to describe and not
+disparage it" (d. 1663); (5) Ann, Lady Egerton (d. 1625); (6) Francis,
+third Duke of Bridgewater (d. 1803). The latter was styled the Father of
+British Inland Navigation; and the tall column near Ashridge Park, 1¾
+mile W. from the church, was erected to his memory in 1832.
+
+_Gaddesden Green_ is practically one with the above, the marble cross
+and fountain to the memory of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888) being between
+the village and the Green. Gaddesden Hoe is 2 miles E. from the S. end
+of the Green.
+
+_Gaddesden Row_ (3 miles N. from Hemel Hempstead Station, M.R.) is a
+straggling hamlet equidistant (about 2 miles) from Flamstead and Great
+Gaddesden.
+
+GADE, river. (See Introduction.)
+
+_Gallows Hill_ (½ mile S. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a
+hamlet. The Booksellers' Provident Retreat is here. It is also the name
+of a hill between Hertford and Ware, on which stands the Joint Isolation
+Hospital for the two towns.
+
+_Gannock Green_ is 2½ miles S. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R. The nearest
+church is at Sandon. Gannock Farm is ½ mile E.
+
+_Gardener's End_ (3½ miles W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet in the
+parish of Ardeley.
+
+_Garston_ is 1¼ mile S.W. from Bricket Wood Station, L.&N.W.R.
+
+_Gibraltar_, on the road from Harpenden to Luton, is on the Bedfordshire
+border, close to Luton Hoo Park and Station, G.N.R.
+
+GILSTON (2 miles N. from Burnt Hill Station (Essex) and about 2 miles
+S.E. from Widford village) is a scattered parish. Chauncy says it was
+probably waste ground at the time of the Conquest, as there is no
+mention of it in _Domesday Book_. The church was very probably erected
+by Geoffrey de Magnaville, who was Earl of Essex and Lord of the Manor
+of Sabriesword (Sawbridgeworth) during the reign of Stephen. It is E.E.
+and stands on the hill about ¼ mile N. from the Park. There is a fine
+double piscina in the chancel, and some heraldic glass in the windows,
+showing the coats of Astley, Bassett, Eastfield and Engayne. The
+monuments to the Gore family are numerous; amongst those buried in the
+church are (1) Sir John Gore, Kt. (d. 1659); he was twice sheriff of the
+county, and a member of Cromwell's second Protectorate Parliament; (2)
+Dame Dorothy Gore (Kempe), second wife to the foregoing (d. 1645); (3)
+Dame Persis, wife to Sir Humphrey Gore, Kt. (d. 1665); (4) in
+churchyard, John, eldest son of the said Sir Humphrey (d. 1691). The
+Feathers, a fine old inn (_circa_ 1680), still stands in this village;
+an excellent photograph of it was reproduced in the _Home Counties
+Magazine_ (Oct. 1901). _Gilston Park_, beautiful but not very extensive,
+should be visited; for the mansion (A. S. Bowlby, Esq., M.A., J.P.,
+etc.) stands near the site of _New Place_, successively the home of the
+Chauncys, Gores and Plumers. The house was enlarged and beautified by
+Sir Humphrey Gore, who was knighted at Whitehall in 1660. In 1701 it
+passed into the hands of Col. John Plumer, whose family is so well known
+to readers of the _Essays of Elia_. It was his grandson William (d.
+1822) whom Lamb calls "a fine old Whig". This William left no family, so
+the house at Gilston Park and his other house, the famous "Blakesmoor in
+H----shire" of Lamb's essay, passed to his widow (and cousin) Jane
+Hamilton, a daughter of Hon. George Hamilton, Canon of Windsor.
+
+_Goff's Oak_ (2½ miles W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet
+which owes its name to the fine oak, a part of which still stands near
+the Goff's Oak Inn at the S. extremity of Cheshunt Common.
+
+GORHAMBURY. (See St. Albans.)
+
+_Gosmore_ (2 miles S.W. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.) is a small
+village. The nearest church is at Ippollitts (_q.v._).
+
+_Gossoms End_ is on the road from Berkhampstead to Tring, ¼ mile S.E.
+from Northchurch.
+
+GRAVELEY (1½ mile N.E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a village off
+the Great North Road. By walking from Stevenage towards Little
+Wymondley[i] a pretty view over Graveley may be obtained from a gateway
+near some cottages on the right. The ancient church of brick and flint
+is late Norman with embattled tower; it was restored in 1886-7. The
+carved oak chancel-screen is ancient; there are windows of stained glass
+to the memory of local rectors. The present N. aisle was added during
+restoration. The manor of Graveley is of great antiquity; it was given
+by William I. to William, Earl of Ewe. Graveley is perhaps Saxon for
+"the Reeve's land," and Norden thinks the place took its name from a
+Reeve of the county in pre-Norman times. Near the village a beacon was
+employed "once upon a time" to give warning of the approach of enemies.
+One mile N. from the church is Jack's Hill, once the haunt of a robber,
+"Jack o' legs," the hero of many a legend known in the district. His
+grave is shown in Weston churchyard, 2 miles E. from Jack's Hill.
+
+_Gravesend_ (3½ miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet
+on the road from Little Hadham to Furneaux Pelham. Albury church is 1
+mile S.
+
+_Green End_ is the name of three hamlets, (1) in the parish of Little
+Munden, about 4 miles W. from Standon Station; (2) in the parish of
+Sandon, about 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station (both stations
+G.E.R.); (3) ½ mile N. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.
+
+_Green Street._--There are two hamlets of this name in Herts, (1) 2½
+miles N.W. from Bishop's Stortford; (2) 1½ mile N.E. from Boreham Wood
+Station (M.R.).
+
+_Green Tye_ is 1½ mile N.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R.
+
+_Grub's Barn_ (2 miles S.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) consists of a
+farmhouse and several cottages on open breezy ground between Hatfield
+and Tewin.
+
+_Grub's Lane_ is near the outskirts of Hatfield Park, 3 miles S.E. from
+the town.
+
+_Gubblecot_ (3 miles N.W. from Tring) is near the Aylesbury Canal. The
+Tring reservoirs, famous for the rare waterfowl shot on those waters on
+many occasions, are a little to the S.
+
+_Gustard Wood_ (1 mile N. from Wheathampstead Station G.N.R.) may be
+visited for its golf links, of which there are few in the county.
+
+HADHAM (GREAT or MUCH) is an ancient village and parish near the river
+Ash. The station, G.E.R., is 1¼ mile S.W. We read that the Manor was
+given by King Edgar to the Bishops of London, several of whom have
+resided at the old manor house. Katherine, mother of Henry VI. and wife
+of Owen Tudor, gave birth to a son here, known as Edmund of Hadham. The
+church of St. Andrew, near the river, is E.E., dating from about 1300.
+It has been much altered and restored. The very fine S. porch is thought
+to be the work of Bishop Kemp (1459-89); the massive, embattled W. tower
+is probably by Bishop Braybroke (_circa_ 1400). Note (1) floriated cross
+and inscription to Simon Flambard, Rector of Hadham Magna in 1331, and
+chaplain to Edward III.; (2) brass to one Alban, also rector here (d.
+1372); (3) monument in chancel to Judith Aylmer, widow of John Aylmer,
+Bishop of London (d. 1618); (4) fourteenth-century glass in E. window,
+a memorial to Thomas Randolph, a recent rector; (5) three brasses in
+nave to members of the Newce family (1579-1610); (6) fine oak chancel
+screen; (7) two piscinæ in chancel. The old House, or Palace, dated from
+about 1400. Close to the village (S.W.) lies _Moor Park_, which readers
+or tourists must not confound with Moor Park, Rickmansworth (_q.v._).
+The present mansion dates from about 1780; its predecessor was an
+Elizabethan structure, once the property of Sir John Gore, Kt. (see
+Gilston), and previously of Sir Garratt Harvey, in whose day Archbishop
+Usher was a guest at "Moore Place". At _Perry Green_, 1 mile E. from
+Hadham Station, is a chapel-of-ease, in E.E. style, erected in 1853.
+_Hadham Cross_ is beautifully situated in the valley, S. from the
+village and partly hidden among trees.
+
+_Hadham Ford_ (3 miles E. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) is on the river
+Ash, 1 mile S.W. from
+
+HADHAM (LITTLE) formerly Hadham Parva. The parish enjoys considerable
+historic importance through its connection with the Capel family, Earls
+of Essex. The present earl owns large properties in the neighbourhood,
+and has the title of Baron of Hadham. The church stands between the
+village and the river, and is widely known for its fine S. porch of
+timber, which it possibly owes to the proximity of Essex, in which
+county such porches are comparatively common. The building is mostly
+E.E., probably late twelfth century, but the tower, embattled and
+pinnacled, is Perp. (_circa_ 1380). Note (1) brass to Rd. Waren, a
+rector of Great Hadham (_circa_ 1470); (2) brass to a knight, his wife
+and daughters (_circa_ 1485); (3) Perp. chancel screen of oak; (4) on S.
+side of chancel, memorial stone to "Arthur Lord Capel, Baron of Hadham,
+who was murder'd for his loyalty to King Charles the First, March the
+9th, 1648". This was the Lord Capel whose heart was preserved in a
+silver box and given to Charles II. at the Restoration, the earl having
+wished his heart to be "buried with his master". The chancel was
+restored by Sir A. W. Blomfield in 1885. _Hadham Hall_ (½ mile E. from
+the church) is late Elizabethan, and has a magnificent corridor
+extending the entire length of the house (135 feet) with finely
+mullioned windows. _Little Hadham Place_ (½ mile W. from the church) is
+prettily situated. The manor of Hadham Parva formed part of the revenue
+of Saxon Kings until King Edgar gave it to the monks of Ely.
+
+HAILEYBURY COLLEGE (2 miles S.E. from Hertford) was founded at Hertford
+in 1805 as the training college of the East India Company. It is now one
+of our most famous public schools. The house, conspicuous from the S.E.,
+stands on high ground, and commands beautiful views over the valley of
+the Lea, and, looking S.E., the neighbourhood of Epping Forest. Note (1)
+the noble chestnut avenue towards the W. entrance; (2) the great size of
+the quadrangle; (3) the beautifully decorated chapel (by A. W.
+Blomfield), surmounted by a lofty dome; (4) the library, containing some
+good portraits of former masters, one of which, Canon Bradby, was
+painted by Herkomer.
+
+_Hall's Green_ (4 miles N.E. from Stevenage) is on the hillside, 1 mile
+S.E. from Weston church. A little farther S. note the fine view over
+Cromer and Cottered, with windmill to the left.
+
+_Hammond Street_ is between Cheshunt Common and Flamstead End. The
+nearest Station is Cheshunt, G.E.R., 2½ miles S.E.
+
+_Hammond's End_, on the outskirts of Rothamstead Park, is in the centre
+of the pleasant varied scenery between the M.R. and the St.
+Albans-Dunstable road. The nearest station is Redbourn, 1¼ mile S.W.
+
+_Handside (Upper and Lower)_ is the name of two hamlets in Lemsford
+parish, both near Brocket Hall Park. Hatfield (about 3 miles S.) is the
+nearest station, G.N.R.
+
+HARE STREET.--There are two places in the county bearing this name: (1)
+a small hamlet partly in Ardeley and partly in Cottered parish; (2) a
+large village on the Cambridge Road, 2 miles E. from Buntingford. The
+village has several quaint old cottages, and is by no means
+unpicturesque; but it contains little of historic importance. It
+affords, however, a good centre from which to visit several old and
+interesting churches (described elsewhere in these pages); Layston,
+Wyddial, Anstey, and Great and Little Hormead being all within a short
+walk.
+
+_Harmer Green_ (½ mile N.E. from Welwyn Station) is a small hamlet N.
+from the Maran Valley.
+
+HARPENDEN is well worth a visit and may be easily reached from St.
+Pancras (24 miles), or from King's Cross by changing at Hatfield.
+Visitors wishing to inspect the church, or to ramble through the large
+village, beautifully situated at the N. end of Harpenden Common, should
+be careful not to choose the day of the annual races, the Friday before
+Epsom week. The church was rebuilt (except the tower) in 1862, in E.
+Dec. style; prior to 1859 the old structure had been a chapel-of-ease to
+Wheathampstead (3 miles E.). It probably dated from say 1140 (_temp._
+Stephen) and was originally cruciform and late Norman. The first tower
+is believed to have been destroyed by fire about 1470, after which the
+present W. tower was built. Many alterations were made during the
+seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; the original Norman clerestory, in
+particular, being superseded by one of Low Perp. Note (1) Norman font;
+(2) brass to William Cressye Esq. (d. 1558) and Grace (Johnson) his wife
+(d. 1571); (3) brass to William Annabull (d. 1456), and Isabella his
+wife. Chauncy quotes an inscription to one William Seabrooke (d. 1462)
+and Joanna his wife, which is of some interest from the fact that the
+name of Seabrooke is common to-day in this part of Herts; (4) E. window
+of stained Munich glass; (5) window in N. transept to the family of the
+late Sir J. B. Lawes of Rothamstead. _Rothamstead_ (1 mile S.W.),
+formerly the seat of the above, is in a finely wooded park. Erected
+about 1470, it has been almost rebuilt at different times. From the
+grand entrance, under the clock tower, there is a fine view looking S.
+There is an annual Flower Show in the park. Harpenden Bury is 1 mile
+N.W. from Rothamstead, on the river Ver.
+
+_Hatching Green_ is a hamlet on Harpenden Common, 1 mile S.W. from the
+station, M.R.
+
+HATFIELD may be visited by fast train from King's Cross, G.N.R. (17
+miles), the station being opposite the W. gates of the park. The older
+parts of the town lie on the western slope of a hill close to the
+railway; at the top stand the church and portions of the old palace,
+beyond which, in the park, stands the fine mansion of the Cecils. The
+town is of great antiquity; the Saxon Kings, who called it Heathfield
+(the _Hetfelle_ of _Domesday Book_), owned the manor until it was given
+by Edgar to the monks of Ely. After Ely had been converted into a
+bishopric by Henry I., the bishops made Hatfield one of their several
+residences, which gave rise to its former name of Bishop's Hatfield.
+Their palace became a royal home during the reign of Henry VIII., and
+was at one time occupied by his children Edward, Mary and Elizabeth. It
+was to this old palace that Elizabeth was brought from the Tower soon
+after her removal from Ashridge; whilst here she was in the custody
+of Sir Thomas Pope, who treated her with kindness not always shown even
+to royal prisoners. The story of her reception of the news that she was
+Queen, of her first Council, held here in the palace, and of her
+subsequent journey to London, has been too often narrated to need
+repetition. Immediately after her death James I. paid a visit to
+Theobalds Park, and had an interview with Sir Robert Cecil, a younger
+son of Lord Burleigh, whom he presently created first Earl of Salisbury.
+The exchange by the King of his manor of Hatfield for that of Theobalds
+has been mentioned in the Introduction (Section X). The King promised to
+build for Sir Robert a new house at Hatfield; the work was carried out
+on a magnificent scale, and was completed sometime in 1611. The new
+house stood a little E. from the old palace. To this house James paid an
+early visit; one of its most stately apartments is called "King James's
+Room".
+
+[Illustration: HATFIELD HOUSE]
+
+_Hatfield House_ is still a fine example of early Jacobean architecture.
+To be appreciated it must certainly be seen: any adequate account of its
+architecture, its history and its treasures would fill such a volume as
+this. In shape it is a parallelogram, about 280 feet long by 70 feet
+wide, with two wings on the S. front. The centre between the two wings
+is Italian Renaissance in style; the central tower, pierced by the great
+gate, being of rich Elizabethan design. On the face of the third storey
+of the tower are the armorial bearings of the Earl of Salisbury. This S.
+front and the two wings enclose on three sides a quadrangle about 130
+feet wide by 100 feet deep, beautifully laid out with flower beds and
+lawns. The extremities of each wing take the shape of square, three
+storeyed towers, surmounted by cupolas 20 feet high. Between the wings
+runs a basement arcade, of eight arches on Doric pilasters, four on each
+side of the gateway below the armorial bearings. The entire floor above
+the arcade is occupied by the long gallery, 160 feet by 20 feet, and 16
+feet high. At the W. end of this gallery is the library, at the E. end
+is King James's Room. The aspect of the house from the N. is not so
+imposing; but there is a noble view over the grounds from the N.
+terrace, and the central clock tower is a conspicuous object from the
+most distant spots in the park. The library, graced by Zucchero's
+portrait of Robert, Earl of Salisbury, contains one of the most valuable
+collections of MSS. in the country, but the State Papers have recently
+been lodged in a room of greater security. A few of the treasures of
+these two rooms may be mentioned: (1) more than 12,000 autograph letters
+of the early Cecils; (2) the Diary of the "great Lord Burleigh"; (3) the
+forty-two articles of Edward VI. with his autograph attached; (4) a
+vellum MS. with miniature of Henry VII.; (5) the Norfolk correspondence;
+(6) the Council Book of Mary Tudor; (7) early MS. of the Chronicle of
+William of Malmesbury; (8) autograph MS. by Ascham.
+
+[Illustration: KING JAMES'S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE]
+
+_King James's Room_ has three fine oriel windows and is profusely
+decorated. The great chimney-piece of marble mosaic, 12 feet wide, is
+supported on black Doric columns, and surmounted by a statue in bronze
+of James. Note the costly candelabra and gilt-framed furniture.
+
+_The Grand Staircase_ is hung with portraits of many Cecils, by Lely,
+Vandyck, Kneller, Reynolds and other masters. Note the huge dimensions
+of the carved balustrade; the strange rustic figures portrayed thereon;
+and the lions grasping shields bearing heraldic devices. There are five
+landings.
+
+Among other apartments the following should be visited: (1) _The
+Chapel_, with its fine Flemish windows representing scriptural stories,
+marble altar-piece, and open stalls; (2) the _Winter Dining Room_,
+looking out upon the N. terrace, about 30 feet square; this room
+contains many valuable pictures, including Wilkie's Duke of Wellington,
+Van Somer's James I. and Charles I., and Kneller's Peter the Great; (3)
+_Great Banqueting Hall_; (4) _Summer Dining Room_, near the foot of the
+great staircase; the bust of Burleigh, in white marble, is above the
+door; (5) the _Armoury_, full of treasures "rich and rare," suits of
+armour, relics of the Spanish Armada, various arms, etc. Other pictures
+in various parts of the house include (1) William III., and Lady
+Ranelagh, by Kneller; (2) half-length of Elizabeth with jewelled
+head-dress and grotesquely embroidered gown; Mildred Coke, mother of
+the first earl; Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter: all by Zucchero; (3) fine
+whole-length of Mary, first Marchioness of Salisbury, by Reynolds.
+
+The Park is the largest in the county, being about 9 miles in
+circumference; it is undulating and beautifully wooded. There are some
+superb avenues. Of Queen Elizabeth's oak, N.E. from the N. terrace,
+little is left saving a portion of trunk, railed round; but the Lion
+Oak, between the house and the great W. gates, still puts forth leaves
+in its season. The maze close to the house is only less famous than that
+at Hampton Court.
+
+The Church of St. Ethelreda is cruciform, largely Dec. and one of the
+largest in the county. A Norman arch in the S. transept is thought to be
+a portion of the original structure. It was completely restored, indeed
+almost rebuilt, in 1872. The nave is 102 feet by 20 feet; the chancel
+about 40 feet by 20 feet. There are N. and S. porches; the former looks
+almost directly upon the great gate-house of the old palace. The most
+important among many features of interest is the--
+
+_Salisbury Chapel_, N. side of chancel, from which it is divided by an
+arcade of three arches on Ionic granite columns. The whole is enclosed
+by beautifully designed iron gates, the work, probably, of an unknown
+Italian. Note the marble wainscotting, and the finely conceived and
+executed allegorical paintings and mosaics on walls and roof. At the E.
+side, on a slab of black marble supported by four kneeling figures in
+white marble (representing the cardinal virtues) lies the recumbent
+effigy of Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, Lord High Treasurer
+of England (d. 1612). The effigy is in robes, with official staff in
+hand. Beneath the slab is a skeleton in white marble. Note also in this
+chapel mezzo-relievo effigy to William Curll, Esq. (d. 1617), with
+inscription, almost illegible, to the effect that he was a most
+Christian knight who died in hope of a joyful resurrection.
+
+On the opposite (S.) side of the chancel is the _Brockett Chapel_,
+containing monuments to the Reades and Brocketts of Brocket Hall (see
+below). Among them note (1) two recumbent female figures, above them the
+arms of the Brockett family and beneath an inscription to Dame Elizabeth
+Brockett (d. 1612) and an epitaph to Dame Agnes Saunders (d. 1588); (2)
+medallion of a female by Rysbrack (1760); (3) bust of Sir James Reade,
+Bart. (d. 1701), and of Sir John Reade, Bart. (d. 1711); (4) helmet of
+Sir John Brockett on wall. There are piscinæ in the chancel and N.
+transept, both discovered during restoration. The reredos, alabaster and
+mosaic, has a fine crucifixion group, with SS. Alban and Etheldreda on
+either side, carved by Earp, who also carved the pulpit of Caen stone.
+Note the beautiful clustered shafts of marble on the font of Tisbury
+stone, the gift of the late Marchioness of Salisbury.
+
+Three miles N.N.W. is _Brocket Hall_. The Great North Road skirts the
+park on the E. and the river Lea flows past the house from N.W. to S.E.
+The present edifice was designed by Paine for Sir Matthew Lamb, Bart.,
+whose son, Sir Peniston Lamb, Bart., became Viscount Melbourne in 1780.
+By this nobleman the Prince Regent was sometimes entertained here, and
+here, as stated in the Introduction, Lord Palmerston died in 1865. The
+drawing-room and grand staircase have always been admired, but, as a
+whole, the house is large and stately rather than beautiful. Elizabeth
+is said to have visited here before she became Queen, and in the park,
+as at Hatfield, an oak is shown as the one under which she loved to sit.
+From the Hall the most charming walks may be taken in any direction;
+_e.g._, through the park S.E. to Lemsford Mill, or S.W. to Cromer Hyde,
+N.W. to Water End, or N.E. to Ayot Green. More charming still is the
+ramble--permission should be requested--beside the winding Lea towards
+Old Marford and Wheathampstead.
+
+_Hatfield Hyde_ (1¾ mile N.E. from Hatfield) is a hamlet in a pretty
+district, with the river Lea and Hatfield Park a little S.
+
+_Haultwick_ lies 3 miles W. from the Old North Road; it is a hamlet 1
+mile N. from Little Munden. The nearest station is Braughing, G.E.R.
+(about 3½ miles E.), passing the S. side of Hamel's Park.
+
+_Heavensgate_ (2 miles W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) consists of a
+few cottages in the centre of a district of small hamlets. The walk (2
+miles N.) to Flamstead through Trowley Bottom is pleasant.
+
+[Illustration: HEMEL HEMPSTEAD]
+
+HEMEL HEMPSTEAD.--Visitors from London should book to Boxmoor
+(L.&N.W.R.) and walk N.E. over the little common or take the motor-bus
+through Marlowes to the town (1½ mile). From St. Albans it is a pleasant
+walk by way of Gorhambury and the village of Leverstock Green; from
+Redbourn it is but a few minutes' journey (M.R.). The town, until
+recently an old "Bailiwick," is on a hill, with central market place,
+town hall and corn exchange. The church is very ancient; it is
+cruciform, of flint and clunch stone. The oldest portions can hardly be
+less than 750 years old; the nave, arcade and W. doorway are fine
+examples of the period. Note (1) groined roof and Dec. windows S. side
+of chancel; (2) transept roof, fourteenth century, restored in 1880; (3)
+nave roof, fifteenth century, restored 1885; (4) great height of
+octagonal, leaded spire, conspicuous for miles round (see illustration).
+Among monuments note (1) figured brass, representing an armed man, to
+Robert Albyn and Margaret his wife (1480); the inscription I transcribe
+from Chauncy:--
+
+    "Robert Albyn gist icy
+    Et Margareta sa femme oubike luy
+    Dieu de lez almes eyt mercy";
+
+(2) monument to Sir Astley Paston Cooper (d. 1841).
+
+Hemel Hempstead, according to Norden, owed its name (Heanhamsted) to
+the high hemp-land on the E. side of the town. Offa, King of the
+Mercians, gave six houses at _Hemelhamstede_ to the Abbey of St. Albans;
+but the remainder of the _vill_ remained in the hands of Saxon Kings
+until it was given to Earl Moreton by William I. The entry in _Domesday
+Book_ is in this case unusually interesting; the property held by Earl
+Moreton is thus described: "Earl Moreton held Hamelhamstede in Treung
+hundred, it was rated for 10 hides ... there are two Frenchmen born,
+with thirteen Bordars, ... there are eight Servants, and four Mills of
+seven and thirty Shillings and four Pence Rent by the Year, and three
+hundred Eels wanting five and twenty, Meadow four Carucates, Common of
+Pasture for the Cattle, and two Shillings Rent by the Year, Wood to feed
+one thousand and two hundred Hogs; in the whole value it is worth two
+and twenty Pounds, when he received it five and twenty Pounds, and Rent
+in the time of King Edward (the Confessor). Two were Brethren, Men of
+Earl Lewin, they held this mannor." From Priory Hill, W. from the
+church, a fine view may be obtained of the town below and the cornfields
+beyond. _Bury Mill_ is on the river Gade, at the foot of the hill.
+_Gadesbridge Park_ is on the left as you pass from High Street to
+Piccott's End; the House is on a beautifully wooded slope, W. from the
+Gade; it is the residence of Sir Astley Paston Paston Cooper, Bart.,
+J.P., etc. A good deal of straw plait is still made by the women of
+this neighbourhood.
+
+_Heronsgate_ (3 miles W. from Rickmansworth) is a hamlet on the Bucks
+border, with a small chapel-of-ease to St. Peter's, Mill End, 1¼ mile E.
+The building is modern, with one window of stained glass.
+
+[Illustration: HERTFORD]
+
+HERTFORD, the county town, is of immemorial antiquity. The origin of the
+name has elicited much learned conjecture, and Hertford is one of
+several places held to be the _Durocobrivis_ mentioned by Antonine. It
+is the _Herudsford_ (_i.e._ red ford) of the Venerable Bede. That it was
+a town of some importance on the river Lea even in the days of the
+Trinobantes seems indisputable. Norden conjectured that the true name of
+the town was Hartford, so called because in Saxon times, when the
+surrounding country was densely wooded, the harts crossed the river by a
+natural ford at this spot. However this may be, the old borough seal,
+three or four centuries ago, bore as a device a hart in shallow water.
+The rivers Rib, Beane, and Maran all unite with the Lea in the immediate
+neighbourhood. Some reference may be here made to the doings of Alfred
+the Great in this neighbourhood. By putting together what is recorded by
+William of Malmesbury, Henry of Huntingdon, Asser and others we learn
+that in the twenty-third year of Alfred's reign the Danes infested the
+Thames with their ships, sailed up the Lea in the lighter of their
+crafts, and built a fort about 20 miles from London, at or near what is
+now the town of Ware. Presently, in the course of their many foraging
+excursions, they sailed farther up the river towards Hertford, stripped
+the people in the town and burnt down many houses. They afterwards
+established a garrison near the town. Alfred brought his army down to
+the river side the following year and made a careful survey of the
+Danish fort and of the character and position of their ships. He is said
+to have passed from place to place in a boat, drawn by a horse, and to
+have carefully ascertained the depth of the water at different points.
+The precise nature of his subsequent operations is not well known, but
+he is said to have diverted the course of the river, to have erected a
+dam (Shass) at Blackwall, and by these means to have grounded the Danish
+fleet. The Danes held a treaty, and eventually withdrew into
+Cambridgeshire and Gloucestershire; the Londoners came down to the scene
+of Alfred's ingenuity and destroyed or appropriated the Danish ships.
+
+Of the castle, built by Edward the Elder in 905, there still remain
+several large fragments of an embattled wall, partly Norman, and a
+postern gate. Of its history only a few leading facts can be mentioned
+here. William I. entrusted it to the keeping of Peter de Valoignes; it
+was besieged by Louis the Dauphin, and capitulated on the Feast of St.
+Nicholas in 1216; it was granted, together with the town, to John of
+Gaunt, Earl of Richmond, in whose time Kings John of France and David
+of Scotland were prisoners within its walls, and after the Earl had been
+created Duke of Lancaster he held a court in the castle for three weeks.
+It was the last prison house of Isabella, widow of Edward II. Henry IV.
+gave the castle to his wife Joan; Henry V. to his wife Katherine of
+France; and Henry VI. to his wife Margaret of Anjou. Elizabeth and James
+I. are both said to have visited this castle. Charles I., on 3rd May, in
+the sixth year of his reign, transferred it to William Earl of
+Salisbury. It was seized by the Parliament during the Great Rebellion.
+
+The Roman Catholic Church in St. John Street stands on or near the site
+of the old Priory, founded during the reign of William I. by Ralph
+Limesy and by him conveyed to the Abbot of St. Albans, who placed here
+six Benedictine monks under Ralph, who became their first prior. The
+Priory was dissolved in the twenty-sixth year of Henry VIII.; but the
+church was rebuilt by Thomas Willis in 1629. It was "demolisht by order
+of the Bishop of Lincoln" towards the end of the seventeenth century.
+The church of All Saints, on high ground E. from the town, was destroyed
+by fire in 1891, when almost everything perished. It was immediately
+rebuilt as a Perp. structure of Runcorn stone, and consecrated in 1895.
+In the main, the plan of the old church has been followed, but the
+aisles are longer than formerly; note the fine clerestoried nave of five
+bays, and hexagonal N. porch. The old building contained monuments to
+Sir John Harrison, Kt., Farmer of Customs to Charles I. (d. 1669);[4] to
+Isabel Newmarch, maid of honour to Isabella, daughter of Charles VI. of
+France and second wife to Richard II.; and to Johannes Prest, "porter"
+(janitor) to Katherine, wife of Henry V. The two latter monuments were
+removed more than 200 years ago. Note the beautiful chestnut trees in
+the avenue near the church, and the many quaint epitaphs on the
+tombstones in the extensive graveyard. The Church of St. Andrew is
+modern; it occupies the site of an older Perp. edifice, originally
+founded before the Conquest. Close by in the market place is the Shire
+Hall, a large brick building of "questionable shape" erected towards the
+close of the eighteenth century. Malting, brewing and general trade in
+corn and its products form the larger part of the industries of
+Hertford. Between this town and Ware is the spot where Cromwell put a
+summary period to the insurrection of the "Levellers" by shooting a
+ringleader named Arnald.
+
+[Footnote 4: This Sir John Harrison erected the fine brick mansion in
+Balls Park, S.E. from Hertford, once the property of Charles Townsend,
+Secretary of State to George II. His widow built four almshouses at
+Butchery Green, long ago decayed.]
+
+_Hertford Heath._ (See Amwell, Little.)
+
+HERTINGFORDBURY may be visited from Hertford, the station (G.N.R.)
+being 1½ mile S.W. The village is pleasantly situated on the river
+Maran, on the S. confines of Panshanger Park. The church, partly rebuilt
+by Earl Cowper in 1890-3, was founded during the fifteenth century. It
+contains little of architectural interest, but the monuments are
+numerous: (1) marble mosaic altar tomb to Sir W. Harrington, with
+alabaster effigies of himself and wife and inscription in rhyme; (2)
+slab to Thomas Ellis (d. 1608) and Grace his wife (d. 1612); (3)
+recumbent effigy in marble to Lady Calvert, wife of Sir George Calvert,
+Kt., who died in 1622; (4) to Dr. Jonathan Browne, Dean of Hertford (d.
+1643); (5) very ancient brass inscription beneath chancel arch to two
+daughters of Robert de Louthe, and one of similar age to Robert de
+Louthe and his wife. The Cowper Chapel, N. side of chancel, contains
+many monuments to that family, particularly a fine alto-relievo by
+Roubeliac to Spencer Cowper (d. 1727), chief Justice of Chester in 1717.
+
+HEXTON (about 6 miles N.W. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.) lies on a
+tongue of the county surrounded W., N. and E. by Bedfordshire. The
+Church of St. Faith, W. from the village, was rebuilt, with the
+exception of the embattled tower, in 1824, as a Perp. edifice. The St.
+Nicholas Chapel, N. side of chancel, takes the place of the chapel
+bearing the same name in the former church. There is a memorial to Peter
+Taverner (d. 1601), who was, I suppose, father to that Francis
+Taverner, Esq., who compiled a record of the antiquities of Hexton and
+set it in the chapel. Little space can be spared for excerpts in this
+volume, but the details which Taverner brought together are so
+interesting that I transcribe a part of them from a copy in my
+possession:--
+
+"Near unto the Roman military Way called Icknild or Ikenild-Street,
+which passeth by this Parish upon a very high Hill is to be seen a
+warlike Fort of great Strength, and ancient Works, which seemeth to have
+been a Summer standing Camp of the Romans: And near it on the Top of
+another Hill called Wayting-Hill, a Hillock was raised up, such as the
+Romans were wont to rear for Souldiers slain, wherein many Bones have
+been found. The Saxons call'd this Fort Ravensburgh, from a City in
+Germany, whereof the Duke of Saxony beareth the Title of Lord at this
+Day. And this Town, which the Britains perhaps call'd Hesk of Reed,
+which doth abound much in this Place; the Sazons call'd Heckstanes-Tune,
+that is the Town of Reed and Stones, if not rather Hockstanes-Tune, that
+is, the Town of Mire and Stones, for old Englishmen, call deep Mire,
+Hocks: Or may be from Grates set in Rivers or Waters before Floodgates,
+which are call'd Hecks; neither is it unlikely but that the Danes made
+some Use of this Fort, for a Parcel of Ground near thereunto is called
+Dane-Furlong to this Day. Some of these Conjectures may be true, but
+this is certain, that Offa, a Saxon King, of the Mertians about 795,
+founded the Monastery of St. Albans, in Memory of St. Alban, and that
+Sexi an honourable and devout Dane (as it is in the Chartulary of the
+Abby) about Anno Dom. 1030, gave to the said Monastery the Town of
+Heckstane-Tune and the Abbot of St. Albans held this Mannor in the time
+of King William the Conqueror.
+
+"This Vill at that time did lie in the Half-hundred of Hiz, and from
+that time during the Space of 510 Years, the Abbots of St. Albans were
+Lords of the Mannors now call'd Hexton. They were also Patrons of this
+Church (dedicated to St. Faith, which Saint had her Statue erected over
+a Fountain near this Church Yard, call'd St. Faith's Well) for John de
+Hertford, the 23d Abbot, did appropriate this Church of Hexstoneston to
+the said Monastery. The Cellarers of which Monastery kept the Court Leet
+and the Court Baron, and received the Rents of the Demeasnes and
+Customary Tenants of this Mannor; and the Sacrists had the disposing of
+the Profits of the Rectory.
+
+"The said Fort, which the common People call Ravensborough Castle, is
+cast up in the Form of an Oval, and containeth sixteen Acres, one Rood,
+and fifteen Poles of Ground, and is naturally strengthened with mighty
+deep and very steep Combs, which the inhabitants call Lyn.
+
+"The Town of Hexton is seated at the Foot of the Mountains, whence issue
+many Springs of Water; the Mountains are a continued Rock of Stone."
+
+HIGH CROSS (3 miles N. from Ware) is a village and parish on the Old
+North Road. It has a modern Dec. church of grey stone, containing
+several good stained-glass windows, but little of architectural
+interest. _Youngsbury_, a beautiful but small park, S. from the village,
+has a fine Georgian residence (C. B. Giles-Puller, Esq.). The little
+river Rib skirts the park on the S. side. There is a small hamlet of the
+same name 1¼ mile S.W. from[j] Radlett Station (M.R.).
+
+_High Street_ is a small hamlet on the Cambridge Road, near the river
+Quin. Braughing Station (G.E.R.) is 1¼ mile S.
+
+_High Wych_ (2 miles N. from Harlow Station, Essex) has an E.E. church,
+built in 1861; the marble reredos, finely worked, was added in 1871. The
+trade in malt is large for so small a place.
+
+_Highley Hill_ (1 mile S.W. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) is on the
+Cambridgeshire border.
+
+HINXWORTH, formerly Hamsteworde and Henxworth (4 miles N. from Baldock),
+is close to the Bedfordshire border. The parish is very ancient. The
+church of St. Nicholas was erected about 1400 on the site of an earlier
+structure. It is a mixture of several styles, partly restored in 1881.
+Note (1) two canopied Perp. niches in S.E. angle of nave, where was
+formerly the lady-chapel; (2) brass to John Lambard, a master of the
+Mercers' Company (d. 1487), and Anne his wife; (3) oak roof in
+chancel, added in 1892; (4) rood-stairs. William I. divided the _vill_
+between three Normans, Peter de Valoignes, Hardwin de Scalers, and
+William Earl of Ewe, who owned much other property in Hertfordshire. The
+vill was subsequently divided into two manors, one of which belonged to
+William de Cantilupe, a Steward and Councillor to King John, and the
+other, during the reign of Henry VII., to John Lambard mentioned above.
+This manor was called Pulter; and the old house (now _Hinxworth Place_,
+½ mile S. from the village) was once inhabited by some Cistercian monks
+of the Monastery of Pipewell (Northants). Note the clunch walls and
+mullioned windows, in one of which, designed in stained glass, are the
+armorial bearings of three former owners. Two hundred years ago the
+village consisted of thirty-five dwellings, three of which were
+almshouses.
+
+[Illustration: HITCHIN]
+
+HITCHIN is an ancient town, full of interest, 32 miles N. from King's
+Cross, G.N.R. It was formerly called Hitche, very probably from the
+little river Hiz, which rises at Well Head, about 1½ mile S.W. from the
+centre of the town. Roman coins and pottery, and even prehistoric
+implements have been found in great quantities in the neighbourhood, and
+there are traces of a prehistoric lake bed, to the S.E. _The Priory_,
+immediately S. (R. H. J. Delmé-Radcliffe, Esq., J.P.), occupies the site
+of a Carmelite monastery and Conventual church founded in the reign of
+Edward II.; and the Biggin Almshouses, close to the church, still
+preserve some of the old fabric of the Gilbertine Nunnery, founded in
+the reign of Edward III. The Church of St. Mary (formerly St. Andrew),
+just off the N.E. corner of the market-place, is thought to be the
+largest parish church in the county, the other claimant for that honour
+being St. Peters, Great Berkhampstead. The whole structure is embattled.
+The square W. tower is of unusual size, but low in proportion. Entering
+by the fine old S. porch we notice the niches for statues, none of which
+remain, and the vaulted roof, badly battered and marred by--as is
+supposed--the zealous iconoclasts of Cromwell's army. Opposite, over the
+N. porch, hangs a painting of the Adoration of the Magi, believed to be
+by Rubens; it was formerly over the communion table. The church has been
+restored at intervals since 1858; but the fine Perp. aisle-roofs still
+remain. The font, of Ketton stone, is ancient, and formerly had statues
+of the twelve Apostles in niches; these, however, have been mutilated
+almost beyond recognition; the beautiful oak canopy is new. Note the
+effigy in stone lying in the recess of the first window of the N. aisle,
+believed to be that of Bernard de Baliol, founder of the Preceptory of
+Knights Templars at Temple Dinsley (3 miles S.), and the mosaics of the
+reredos, representing the Last Supper, Christ and the woman of Samaria,
+Moses striking the rock, and other subjects from Scripture. The screens
+of carved oak, between the aisles and chancel aisles, are among the
+finest in the county. Memorials are numerous; some ancient brasses
+having been brought to light during restoration. Among the brasses are
+one (1) to John Beel, Margary his wife, and their eight children (1477);
+this is near the pulpit; (2) to James Hert, B.D. (d. 1498); (3) to John
+Pulter, a draper (d. 1421), and his wife Alice, the effigies almost
+obliterated; (4) to Nicholas Mattok, and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1485);
+this Nicholas was a fishmonger of London, and a merchant of the staple
+of Calais; (5) portion of a brass, near the chancel steps, to John
+Sperehawke, D.D., Canon of Wells (d. 1474).
+
+Adjoining the W. end of the churchyard is Golden Square, once the
+residence of Eugene Aram, from which we may pass into Bancroft, one of
+the widest thoroughfares in the county. Close by is Tilehouse Street;
+the Baptist Chapel, on the left, some way up the street, was restored in
+1894: it stands on the site of the building in which Bunyan preached; a
+chair which he gave is still shown in the vestry. It may here be
+mentioned that George Whitefield and George Fox are both known to have
+visited Hitchin during their missionary wanderings. A little farther W.
+is Mount Pleasant, thought to be the birthplace of George Chapman, the
+translator of Homer. That he finished his translation in this
+neighbourhood is matter of knowledge; but what is told of his family
+connections with Hitchin is little more than conjecture.
+
+Between the town and the station, G.N.R., stands a modern church of red
+brick, dressed with Bath stone, E. Dec. in style. There are good oak
+stalls and a sedile in the chancel.
+
+Hitchin was noted during the sixteenth century for its trade in wood and
+malt. There were at one time tan-yards beside the Hiz, and the
+buckle-makers of Bucklersbury gave that street its name. The
+malting-yards occupied much of the ground on both sides of Bancroft. The
+making of lavender water in the town is referred to in the Introduction.
+
+HOCKERIL is now the E. suburb of Bishop's Stortford, the bridge over the
+Stort, near the Old Black Lion, connecting it with the town. It has a
+modern Gothic church. The E. extremity of Hockeril is almost on the
+border line between Hertfordshire and Essex.
+
+HODDESDON (1½ mile N. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is an ancient
+market town, lying on high ground among beautifully diversified
+surroundings. It is known, at least by name, to all readers of _The
+Complete Angler_; but the old Thatched House, to which Izaak Walton
+often resorted, has long been a thing of the past. The Bull Inn still
+remains where it stood in the time of Prior, whose allusion to it in his
+_Down Hall_ is invariably quoted in local handbooks:
+
+    "Into an old inn did this equipage roll,
+      At a town they call Hod'sdon, the sign of the Bull,
+    Near a nymph with an urn that divides the highway,
+      And into a puddle throws mother of tea".
+
+The stone figure to which Prior refers is no longer to be seen. At the
+S. end of the High Street, on the right when entering the town from
+Broxbourne, stands _Rawdon House_, an embattled Jacobean mansion of red
+brick, built by Sir Marmaduke Rawdon in 1622. It was restored in 1877,
+and the stucco with which it was formerly coated was removed. A tower,
+with cupola roof, is at the rear of the house, which is now a convent
+for Augustinian nuns.
+
+The Church of St. Catherine, close to the site of the old Thatched
+House, but W. from the opposite side of the High Street, dates from
+1732; the tower was added in 1888. It is a large building of red-brick,
+in mixed styles, with small windows of stained glass in the chancel. It
+is not interesting.
+
+_Hollesmore End_ (2 miles W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small
+hamlet.
+
+HOLWELL is a village and parish transferred from Bedfordshire to
+Hertfordshire in 1897. It is about 1½ mile N.E. from Pirton (_q.v._);
+the nearest station is Henlow, M.R., 2 miles N. The Church of St. Peter,
+very much restored, was originally Perp. There is a xii century holy
+water basin, and a very curious old brass to Robert Wodehouse, a priest
+(1515), with figures of two _wodehowses_ (wild forest men) and of a
+chalice and paten.
+
+_Hook's Cross_ (2 miles E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+on the main road from Hertford to Stevenage. _Frogmore Hall_ stands in
+a small park ½ mile E.; it is a large modern mansion of red brick and
+stone facings. The grounds are very picturesque, and are divided by the
+river Beane.
+
+HORMEAD, GREAT (2½ miles E. from Buntingford), has a restored fifteenth
+century church, perhaps 1400-20, containing a brass to a benefactor, one
+William Delawood (1694) and a mural monument to Lieut.-Col. Stables,
+killed at Waterloo. The village is close to the river Quin, which flows
+between the church and Hare Street on the Cambridge Road.
+
+_Hormead, Little_ (½ mile S. from the above), has a quaint little Norman
+and E.E. church on the hill crest overlooking Hare Street. Leaving the
+Cambridge Road at the S. end of that village, and crossing the river
+Quin, the rounded arch of the Norman doorway on the N. side of the nave
+catches the eye as we approach the village. The door itself is partly of
+wrought iron work, seventeenth century; an engraving of it is in
+Cussans' _History of Hertfordshire_. There is excellently preserved work
+in the Norman nave. It has been surmised that "Hormede" was formerly one
+_vill_, that it was divided soon after 1100, and the two churches built
+on the hill less than ½ mile apart. Ralph Baugiard and Eustace, Earl of
+Boulogne, together held the manor of "Hormede" at the time of the Great
+Survey, and the names Hormead Magna and Hormead Parva are of later
+origin.
+
+_Horse Shoes_ (½ a mile N. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+in the parish of Colney Heath.
+
+_Howe Green_, a small hamlet, is 1¼ mile S. from Cole Green Station,
+G.N.R. Pretty walks may be taken S. to Bedwell Park, or N.W. to the mill
+on the Lea, Rye Croft, and Mill Green.
+
+HUNSDON (2 miles N.E. from Roydon Station, Essex) is a very ancient
+village. The E. Perp. church of flint is thought to date from 1400, and
+the N. porch of oak is probably coeval with the main structure. Note the
+finely carved Jacobean screen which divides the Cary Chapel in the S.
+transept from the nave, and, in the chapel, the imposing monument and
+alabaster effigies to Sir John Cary (d. 1617) and his wife. The monument
+is built into the wall; behind it is a rather long, but historically
+important inscription:--"Here resteth in Peace Sir John Cary, Knight,
+Baron of Hunsdon (being the fourth Son to the Right Honorable Henry
+Baron of Hunsdon) and the Lady Mary Hunsdon his Wife, Daughter to
+Leonard Hide of Throcking in the county of Hertford, Esq.; The Said Sir
+John Cary was sent to Barwick by the late Queen Elizabeth of Famous
+Memory, in the Year of our Lord, 1593, to be Marshall of the Town of
+Barwick, and Captain of Norham; afterwards he was made Governor of the
+said Town and Garrison of Barwick, and Lord Warden of the East Marches
+of England,... Scotland, and so he remained until he returned into
+England with the most famous King James, where he entered into the
+Possession of the Crown of England; and so having two Sons and two
+Daughters ended this transitory Life, in an assured Hope to rise again
+in Christ." In the chancel windows are some white roses, and a badge of
+the House of York; note also the canopies in these windows, and the
+figures of Apostles in the W. window. On the N. wall of nave is a fine
+brass to James Gray, showing a man shooting at deer with a crossbow;
+this Gray was gamekeeper for thirty-five years at _Hunsdon House_.
+Bishop Ridley preached from the pulpit on several occasions.
+
+_Hunsdon House_ stands between the church and Gilston Park. During the
+reign of Edward IV., Sir John Oldhall "built here a fair House after the
+mode of a Castle ... which building, 'tis said, cost £7,222". This would
+be an enormous sum of money in those days. The original structure had a
+high tower and large courtyard. Henry VIII. made the house a palace, and
+in so doing appears to have almost rebuilt it; it is known that his
+children were often here, as the King had a high opinion of
+Hertfordshire air. Queen Elizabeth gave the estate to Sir Henry Cary,
+Kt., her cousin, and created him Baron Hunsdon. The "palace" was
+surrounded by a moat, crossed by two bridges; the grand entrance and
+lofty clock tower, the outhouses and grounds are elaborately depicted in
+a print in Chauncy's _History_. The present house was erected at the
+beginning of this century, partly on a fresh site, but some portions of
+what was the W. extremity of the old palace are built into the E. wing.
+Two fine Jacobean chimney-pieces still remain; but little else is left
+of the old Tudor home, and the moat has been levelled. The present
+house, however, is an imposing, even noble structure of red brick, and
+its position, backed by the grand old elms in the park, is very
+picturesque. N.E. stood Hunsdon Lodge, the hunting lodge of Queen
+Elizabeth.
+
+HUNTON BRIDGE is a pleasant little village at the meeting of the roads
+from Watford, King's Langley, and St. Albans, on the Grand Junction
+Canal. The nearest station is King's Langley (L.&N.W.R.), 1¼ mile N.
+There is a good modern inn and many pretty cottages, and folk in search
+of rest and quiet might journey farther and find less suitable
+retirement. The nearest church is at Langleybury (_q.v._).
+
+ICKLEFORD, formerly Ickleton, is a village on the Roman Icknield Way,
+which at this spot fords the little river Hiz; hence its name. It is 2
+miles N. from Hitchin. The church was restored in 1860; but portions of
+the ancient fabric have been carefully retained, and a small chapel
+added to the chancel. The tower is Norman, as are also part of the nave
+arcade and the S. doorway. The chancel arch, pointed, is finely carved;
+the stairs to the rood-loft still remain; there is a piscina in the
+chancel. Note brass to Thomas Somer and his wife (_circa_ 1400). S. from
+the church is _Ickleford Manor_, in a small park, for some years the
+residence of Commander H. C. Dudley Ryder, R.N. It is not of historic
+interest.
+
+IPPOLLITTS or St. Ippolitts (2 miles S.E. from Hitchin) was formerly
+called Hippolits, Eppalets or Pallets, according to the taste of the
+speaker. It was thought by Norden to owe its name to Hippolits, a
+supposed Saint, who was very skilful in the treatment of horses. After
+the Saint's death a shrine was placed to his honour in the parish
+church, and to this shrine near the high altar divers persons brought
+their ailing steeds to be healed by the attendant priest with the help
+of relics of the Saint. The relics were of efficacy commensurate with
+the gifts of those who desired the Saint's blessing! "The horses," says
+one writer, "were brought out of the North Street, through the North
+Gate, and the North Door of the Church, which was boarded on purpose to
+bring up the horses to the Altar." The church was restored in 1878; it
+is of flint and rubble, and is now chiefly Perp. and Dec. with a few
+older portions. Note (1) ambry and double piscina in the chancel; (2)
+brass in N. transept to Robert Poydres (d. 1401); (3) brasses in
+chancel, with effigies, to the Hughes family, one of whom, Alice, was
+daughter of Thomas Bybsworth, "an ancient dweller in this parish"; she
+died 1594. There is a tumulus about 1 mile S.
+
+KELSHALL (2½ miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) has a restored,
+but interesting church, dedicated to St. Faith, partly Perp. and partly
+Dec. Over the S. porch is a small chamber, and in the N. aisle is a
+recess, the nature of which is not quite understood, but it was probably
+used for the safe-keeping of banner-staves, crosses and other
+pre-Reformation ornaments. There is a brass with two effigies to
+"Rychard Adane and Maryon his Wyff" (d. 1400 and 1435 respectively). In
+the churchyard is an old sundial on the shaft of a stone cross. John
+Janeway, a young divine of astonishing spirituality, whose _Life_, by
+his brother James, was subsequently prefaced by Robert Hall, was buried
+here in 1657: Richard Baxter was one of his admirers. The Manor of
+_Chelesell_ was the property of the Abbot of Ely at the time of the
+Conquest, having been given to that ancient foundation by the father of
+Edward the Confessor.
+
+_Kensworth_ was transferred to Bedfordshire in 1897.
+
+KIMPTON (about 2¾ miles N. from Wheathampstead Station) lies between the
+hills that lead N. to Whitwell and S.E. to Ayot St. Lawrence. The
+village is very ancient, and was called _Kimeton_ in Saxon days. The
+church, a little N. from the centre of the village, has been much
+restored: the N. aisle was added in 1861; the tower and the N. porch
+(over which is a parvise, as at Kelshall) were restored in 1887-8; the
+chancel in 1890, when the reredos was added. The building is E.E. Note
+the finely carved oak screen separating the S. aisle from the Dacre
+Chapel, formerly the rood screen, the piscina in the chapel itself, and
+the stained glass in the E. window to Thomas, twenty-second Baron Dacre
+(d. 1890), to whom the reredos is also a memorial. _Kimpton Hoo_, in a
+beautiful park of about 250 acres, is 1 mile N.E. from the village. It
+is the seat of Viscount Hampden. Pretty walks may be taken E. _viâ_
+Kimpton Mill to Codicote, N. to Bendish and Whitwell, W. to Peter's
+Green, or S. to Lamer Park.
+
+KING'S LANGLEY is a large and interesting village. The river Gade flows
+between the main street and the station, L.&N.W.R.[k] Paper and straw
+plait are both made largely. The village owes its name to the fact that
+Henry III. built a palace on a spot still marked by a few fragments of
+ruin a little W. from the church, and the royal manor became known as
+Langley Regis, whereas the Langley on the E. side of the river belonged
+to the Abbey of St. Albans, and was called Abbot's Langley (_q.v._).
+Edmund de Langley, fifth son of Edward III., was born in this palace in
+1344. He became Duke of York, Earl of Cambridge and Lord Tivedale, and
+married Isabel, a younger daughter of Don Pedro of Castile. In 1392
+Richard II., with his first Queen, Anne of Bohemia, and many bishops,
+earls, lords and ladies, kept Christmas at King's Langley Palace.
+
+Near the palace was founded, by one Roger Helle, a priory of Dominican
+monks, which was enriched by Edward II. and several successive monarchs.
+The body of Piers Gaveston was brought from Oxford and buried in the
+church of this priory in 1315--he was beheaded on Blacklow Hill in
+1312--and what was then believed to be the body of Richard II. was
+brought to the same spot in 1400 for temporary sepulture. The priory was
+dissolved, like most priories, in the days of Henry VIII.; but it was
+restored by Mary. It was finally suppressed soon after the accession of
+Elizabeth. The church, at the S.E. extremity of the village street, is a
+Perp. structure of flint and Totternhoe stone; the W. tower is embattled
+and has an angle turret. It has been partially restored. On the N. side
+of the chancel stood formerly the tomb of Edmund de Langley and Isabel
+of Castile (both mentioned above) which was brought from the priory
+church at the Dissolution; it is now in the chapel at the end of the N.
+aisle. There is, I believe, no absolute proof that this is the tomb of
+Edmund and Isabel, but the evidence that it is so is very strong.
+Chauncy, two centuries back, wrote: "On the north side of the chancel
+there is a Monument raised about five foot, with the Arms of France and
+England, with three Labels upon it, also the Arms of Peter, King of
+Castile and Leons, by which Coats it seems to be the Tomb where Edmond
+de Langley, the Fifth Son of Edward III. and Isabel his Wife, one of the
+Daughters of Don Pedro, King of Castile, was [were] interr'd". During
+the removal of the tomb to its present position the bones of a male and
+two females were discovered; they are presumably those of Edmund and
+Isabel, and of Anne Mortimer, the wife of Edmund's second son, Richard,
+Earl of Cambridge. The tomb is covered by a slab 7 feet 3 inches long;
+the sides are embossed with Plantagenet shields within cusps. Note the
+beautifully carved open screen between chapel and chancel, and the
+reredos, partly of marble, erected in 1877. The oaken pulpit is Perp.
+There are several other monuments: (1) to Hon. Sir W. Glascocke of
+Aldamhowe, Kt., Admiralty Judge in Ireland under Charles II. (d. 1688);
+(2) brass to John Carter, "late of Gifres" (d. 1588); the inscription
+states that he had two wives, that the first bore him four sons and five
+daughters and the second five sons and four daughters; (3) brass to
+William Carter and Alice his wife, 1528.
+
+Sir John Evans, in 1862, found an almond-shaped river-drift flint
+implement on a heap of stones in this neighbourhood.
+
+KING'S WALDEN (about 5 miles S.W. from Hitchin) has an ancient church,
+carefully restored in 1868. It stands in the park of _The Bury_, a large
+mansion, Elizabethan in style. The embattled tower has masonry probably
+older than fourteenth century, and much of the nave arcade is Norman.
+Note the sculptured capitals of pillars, curiously similar to those at
+Old Shoreham. The chancel arch is E. Perp.; probably substituting its
+E.E. predecessor on very close lines; the corbels bear busts thought to
+resemble Henry VI. and Margaret of Anjou. In the chancel are a double
+piscina, and two E.E. lancet windows. The chancel screen is a really
+wonderful piece of work, in excellent preservation. In the N. aisle is
+an ambry, and in the S. aisle a sedile and two piscinæ, and on the N.
+side another ambry. The font stands at the E. end of S. aisle, formerly
+the Chapel of the Virgin Mary.
+
+_Kinsbourne Green_ is on the Bedfordshire border, 2 miles N.E. from
+Harpenden. The Kennels of the Hertfordshire Hunt are here. The hamlet is
+close to Luton Hoo Park.
+
+_Kitter's Green_ is a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from King's Langley Station
+(L.&N.W.R.). Abbot's Langley old church (_q.v._) is ½ mile N.
+
+[Illustration: KNEBWORTH PARK]
+
+KNEBWORTH, famous as the home of Bulwer Lytton, lies on high ground 1
+mile W. from the station (G.N.R.). The village is small, and in itself
+of little interest; it was formerly called Chenepeworde, and
+Knebbeworth. It is, however, ancient, and was valued in _Domesday Book_.
+
+Sir Thomas Bouchier, K.G., who fought for the Earl of Richmond at
+Bosworth Field, sold the manor of Knebbeworth to Robert Lytton, Esq.,
+Keeper of the Wardrobe to Henry VII., whose son William was buried in
+this parish. This Sir Robert began to erect a huge Tudor mansion on the
+site of a fortress which had stood since the days of the Conquest; it
+took several generations to complete it. The present house is the result
+of the work of demolition and reconstruction in the days of the
+novelist's mother, and of the enlarging of 1883, when the S. wing and
+entrance were added; it is pseudo-Gothic. The castellated parapet,
+cupola-topped turrets, griffins upon pinnacles and many mullioned
+windows are noticeable features from the grounds. Within, the finest
+sight is the grand old banqueting hall, with its gallery for minstrels,
+its Elizabethan oak-screen, and wainscots by Inigo Jones. Around, on all
+sides, are suits of armour, some dating from the days of Henry VII. The
+room is associated with memories of Elizabeth, who was sometimes
+entertained at Knebworth by Sir Rowland Lytton, whom she knighted; he
+was buried in the chancel of the little church in the park (see below)
+in 1582. The room in which Elizabeth slept on these occasions is still
+shown as "Queen Elizabeth's Chamber," and contains a finely carved
+over-mantel (oak) and an oaken bedstead of colossal proportions. Among
+the distinguished guests so often entertained here by Bulwer Lytton were
+Dickens, Forster and Jerrold.
+
+The grounds are nearly perfect, art and nature seaming to strive to
+out-do one another. Well-kept lawns are figured by flower-beds of all
+shapes and sizes; the rosery is very large; the great variety of
+evergreens imparts every hue and shade to the extensive walks stretching
+W. from the house. The lawns are divided here and there by stone
+balustrades and overlooked by statues of classical and modern figures.
+There are many nooks, pleasure houses and alcoves. A long avenue of
+limes leads to the lake.
+
+The church, a little N. from the house, is approached through lodge
+gates. It is for the most part E.E. The oaken pulpit is octagonal; the
+finely carved panels represent scenes in the life of Christ, one of them
+bears the date 1567. At the N. side of the chancel, which has a piscina,
+is the Lytton Chapel, "a little Chapel or Burying Place, built by the
+Family of the Lyttons". Among the members of the family buried in the
+chapel were (1) Dame Judith Barrington, daughter of Sir Rowland Lytton,
+and wife to Sir Thomas Barrington of Hatfield Broad Oak (d. 1657); (2)
+Sir William Lytton, Kt. (d. 1660); (3) Sir Rowland Lytton, Kt. (d.
+1674). To the Sir Rowland Lytton who died in 1582 (see above) there is a
+fine brass with effigy, which also commemorates his wives Margaret and
+Anne, and his three children. There are other memorials both in the
+church and Lytton Chapel, among which note (1) brass to Simon Bache,
+Treasurer of the Household to Henry V. and Canon of St. Paul's (d.
+1414); (2) brass to John Hotoft, who filled the same office in the
+Household of Henry VI. (d. _circa_ 1430). This brass formerly showed
+effigies of Hotoft in armour with his wife beside him. Note also, near
+the S. porch, two headstones with interesting inscriptions to servants
+of the Lytton family, and close by, in the park, the mausoleum erected
+by the mother of the novelist, who was buried within its walls. The
+epitaph to her memory on the exterior was written by her son. Passing
+out at the lodge gates we may turn left and reach a pretty dip, from
+whence a walk of 3 miles N. over open country leads to Stevenage.
+
+_Knebworth Green_ skirts the S. side of the park.
+
+_Langley_, a hamlet on the Hatfield-Hitchin road, is 2 miles S.W. from
+Stevenage Station (G.N.R.). Langley Bottom is a few minutes' walk N.
+
+_Langleybury_ (1 mile S. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is
+practically part and parcel of Hunton Bridge, the church standing W. and
+the village E. of the main road from Watford to Hemel Hempstead. The
+church is modern, a Gothic structure; on the S. is a good lich-gate.
+Close to the S. porch is the large cross of Sicilian marble, by the
+Florentine sculptor Romanelli, to the memory of the late W. J. Loyd, at
+whose expense the church was erected. The walk from Langleybury to
+Buck's Hill (W.), by way of West Wood, leads through some lovely bits of
+scenery, and should on no account be omitted. At the outset the confines
+of Grove Park are on the left and the road dips up and down as the woods
+are passed, and is shaded by fine beeches in many spots.
+
+_Layston_ was a village in Saxon times, but nothing now remains save the
+ruins of the church, still almost intact, at the meeting of two lanes, 1
+mile N.E. from Buntingford. It is a flint structure, E.E. and Perp. The
+S. porch is in part demolished. There are monuments to the Crowch family
+of seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
+
+LEA, river. (See Introduction, Section II.)
+
+LEAVESDEN (about 2½ miles N. from Watford) is a village in the pretty
+district between Grove Park and Bricket Wood. The ecclesiastical parish
+was formed seventy years ago from the parishes of Watford and St.
+Albans. The huge brick building on high ground a little N. is the
+Metropolitan District Asylum for Idiots; it was erected in 1869. The
+church dates only from the formation of the parish and is situated at
+Garston, 1 mile E. It was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott and is E.E. _The
+Grove_, a large mansion of red brick, was erected in 1760 by one of the
+Villiers family, but has been restored and altered. The house contains a
+part of the pictures collected by Clarendon; comprising portraits by
+Vandyck, Lely, C. Janssens, Zucchero, Van Somer, Kneller, Hogarth, etc.
+The park is extensive and beautiful.
+
+LEMSFORD is another modern ecclesiastical parish, formed sixty years
+ago. It is nearly 3 miles N. from Hatfield, on the S.E. side of _Brocket
+Hall Park_. It is widely known for its large mill on the river Lea. The
+church, erected in 1859 as a memorial to the sixth Earl Cowper, is E.E.
+and Dec., with a good E. window, also to the memory of the earl. The
+tower (W.) is lofty and embattled.
+
+_Letchmore Heath_ (1½ mile S.W. from Radlett Station, M.R.) is a small
+village.
+
+_Letchworth_ (2 miles N.E. from Hitchin) has a small Perp. church,
+containing a curious old brass to Thomas Wyrley, an early Rector (d.
+1475). The effigy represents him with a heart in his hands. Another
+brass, much defaced, dates from _circa_ 1400; it is to William Overbury
+and Isabel his wife. The village, which almost adjoins that of Willian
+(_q.v._), is ancient, and was once the property of Robert Gernon, a
+Norman warrior who fought at Hastings. There was a church at _Leceworth_
+at least as early as _temp._ Henry I., for during the reign of that
+monarch it was given "with all its appurtenances and twelve acres of
+land" to the monastery at St. Albans. _Letchworth Hall_, now a manor
+house containing some good carved oak, was built by Sir William Lytton
+(_circa_ 1620), and still bears on the S. front the arms of that family.
+
+_Letty Green_ is close to Cole Green Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Levens Green_ (1 mile S. from Great Munden) has a tiny chapel-of-ease
+erected in 1893. The nearest station is Standon, G.E.R., 2½ miles E.,
+between which and the hamlet lies the Old North Road.
+
+LEVERSTOCK GREEN (1½ mile S.E. from Hemel Hempstead Station, M.R.) is in
+a pleasantly diversified district, at the junction of the roads from St.
+Albans and Abbot's Langley. It has a modern church, Gothic in style,
+erected just before the district was constituted an ecclesiastical
+parish in 1850.
+
+_Ley Green_ is a hamlet 1 mile N. from King's Walden Church, and about 4
+miles S.W. from Hitchin. It is on high ground.
+
+LILLEY, a village on the Bedfordshire border, is 4 miles N.E. from Luton
+(Beds). It was formerly called Lindley, and Lilly Hoo, and the old
+manor, like so many others, was given to a Norman (Goisfride de Bech)
+for services rendered at Hastings. The church is of ancient foundation,
+but was rebuilt, in E. Dec. style, in 1870-71. Several old memorials are
+still preserved, notably those to the Docwra family, early seventeenth
+century. _Putteridge Bury_ (1 mile S.) is in the centre of a park of 450
+acres; on or near the site of the house built by Thomas Docwra, J.P. and
+High Sheriff of Herts, who died there in 1602. The present mansion dates
+from the beginning of last century.
+
+_Little Heath_ is on the Middlesex border, 1 mile N.E. from Potter's Bar
+Station. The Dec. church, just off the Barnet-Hatfield road, is new.
+
+LONDON COLNEY, a village on the main road from Barnet to St. Albans, is
+on the river Colne. The nearest station is that of the G.N.R. at St.
+Albans, 2¼ miles N.W. The church, built by the third Earl of Hardwicke
+in 1825, is a plain brick structure of Gothic character. Half a mile E.
+is _Tittenhanger Park_, a large brick mansion with tiled roof and dormer
+windows, built by Sir Henry Blount in 1654. The manor had belonged to
+the Abbots of St. Albans, who had a residence on the same spot,
+commenced during the abbacy of John de la Moote and completed during
+that of John Wheathampsted. Henry VIII. and Catherine of Arragon stayed
+here during the "sweatinge sicknesse" (1528).
+
+_Long Lane_ is a hamlet near the river Chess, 1½ mile S.W. from
+Rickmansworth.
+
+_Long Marston_, 1 mile N. from the Aylesbury Canal, is a village and
+ecclesiastical parish in the extreme W. of the county. The nearest
+station is Marston Gate, 1 mile N. The old church, a small Dec.
+structure, was pulled down twenty years ago with the exception of the
+tower, which stands in the disused graveyard. The new building,
+adjoining the present burial ground, is Gothic, and contains some
+portions of the old structure, and its two piscinæ.
+
+_Lower Green._ (See Tewin.)
+
+_Ludwick Hyde_ is in the parish of Hatfield, 3 miles N.E. from that
+town.
+
+_Luffenhall_, a little hamlet, is in the hollow between Weston and
+Cottered, 5 miles W. from Buntingford Station. The district is one of
+winding lanes and field footpaths so characteristic of the county.
+
+_Lye End_, 2 miles S. from Sandon Church, is a hamlet lying W. from the
+Buntingford-Royston road.
+
+[Illustration: OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END]
+
+MACKERY END, 1½ mile N.W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R., is close
+to Batford and Pickford mills on the river Lea. Charles and Mary Lamb
+had talked about the place "all their lives" and the essay by the former
+entitled "Mackery End in Hertfordshire" need only be named here. The
+place, as Lamb mentions, was also called Mackarel End. John
+Wheathampsted, who became thirty-third Abbot of St. Albans in 1420, was
+the son of Hugh Bostok or Bostock of the village from which he took his
+name; his mother was the daughter of Thomas Makery, "Lord of Makeyrend".
+
+_Mangrove_ is a hamlet, partly in Offley and partly in Lilley parishes;
+Mangrove Green is on the S. outskirts of Putteridge Bury Park, on the
+Bedfordshire border. The nearest station to the latter is Luton (Beds).
+
+_Maple Cross_, a hamlet 2½ miles S.W. from Rickmansworth, is near the
+river Chess. It lies between Mill End and West Hyde, on the road to
+Uxbridge.
+
+MARAN, or MIMRAM, river. (See Introduction.)
+
+_Marford_, _Old_ and _New_, are hamlets on the river Lea. The latter
+adjoins the E. side of Wheathampstead village; the former lies ¼ mile
+farther E.; the cress-beds, the hand-bridge over the river, and some
+dilapidated cottages render it a picturesque spot. On the opposite side
+of the road from Hatfield to Wheathampstead lies The Devil's Dyke, a
+long, narrow gorge most beautifully wooded. It is a favourite haunt of
+the nightingale, as the writer can testify.
+
+MARKET or MARKYATE STREET (3½ miles S.W. from Luton, Beds) is a village
+on the high road from St. Albans to Dunstable. The church, a little N.
+from the village, in Cell Park, is small and uninteresting, with a
+chancel added in 1892. The mansion called Markyate Cell, a little
+farther N., is old, and occupies the site of the old Benedictine nunnery
+built by Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth Abbot of St. Albans, at the
+instigation of Roger the Monk, the church of which was consecrated in
+1145. Cowper the poet was at school in the village, at the house of Dr.
+Pitman.
+
+MARLOWES is a suburb of Hemel Hempstead (_q.v._).
+
+_Marsh Moor_ lies between Hatfield Park and Mimms Park. It is a hamlet
+in the parish of North Mimms, 2 miles S. from Hatfield.
+
+_Marston Gate_ is little more than the station (L.&N.W.R.) for Long
+Marston, 1 mile S. It is nearly the extreme W. point of the county.
+
+_Mayden Croft_, or Maiden Croft, is near the source of the river Hiz,
+with the hamlet of Gosmore adjoining (S.E.). Some remains of a moat may
+be traced, which are supposed to mark the site of a nunnery. The manor
+is ancient; in the time of Edward III. it belonged to Sir Robert Nevill,
+Kt.
+
+MEESDON (6½ miles N.E. from Buntingford) has a very ancient flint
+church, probably erected in the thirteenth century, but restored in
+1877. The S. porch is Jacobean. The pavement of the Sacrarium is a
+mosaic of many coloured, vitrified tiles; it is almost unique in the
+county and is undoubtedly of great age. There is also in the chancel a
+curious monument and inscription to Robert Young, gent. (d. 1626). Most
+of the population are to be found at Meesdon Green, ½ mile W. from the
+church.
+
+On _Metley Hill_, between the Icknield Way and the village of
+Wallington, may be seen Bush Barrow, one of the many ancient mounds in
+the county concerning which so little is known.
+
+_Micklefield Green_ (½ mile E. from Sarratt Church) is near the river
+Chess and the Bucks border. The nearest station is Chorley Wood (Met.
+R.) 2 miles S.W. The district is varied and undulating.
+
+MILL END (1 mile S.W. from Rickmansworth) is on the Middlesex border,
+close to the river Colne. The church (modern) is late Dec. in style, and
+has several good stained windows. The village and parish were only
+formed in 1875. There is also a hamlet of this name 1½ mile S.W. from
+Buckland, on the Royston road.
+
+_Mill Green_, at the N. end of Hatfield Park, is a pretty hamlet on the
+Lea, near the old paper mill.
+
+MIMMS, NORTH (3 miles N.W. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R.), is in one
+of the prettiest districts in the county, although so close to
+Middlesex. The church and parsonage are in the park, ½ mile from the
+village. Dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, the church is Dec., unusually
+pure in style. It is said to have been built by Sir Hugh de Magneville
+(_temp._ Stephen); I should think it more probable that Geoffrey de
+Magneville, then Lord of the Manor, was the real founder, as stated by
+Chauncy. However this may be, the structure is now almost wholly of
+later date. The monuments and brasses are numerous and very interesting;
+several of the latter, now in the chancel, were moved from their
+original positions on the floor during the restoration sixty years ago.
+Among them we may note (1) large black marble monument in chancel
+surmounted by a figure of justice, to John Lord Somers, Baron of Evesham
+(d. 1716); (2) altar tomb in N. aisle, with Elizabethan effigy, to a
+Derbyshire family named Beresford; the inscription is only in part
+decipherable; (3) mutilated brass to Sir Robert Knolles (d. 14--), and
+to Elizabeth his wife (d. 1458); (4) brass to Sir Henry Covert (d.
+1488); (5) fine old brass to Richard Boteler and Martha (Olyff) his wife
+(_circa_ 1560); (6) brass, probably of Flemish workmanship, thought to
+be a memorial to William Kesteven, vicar (d. 1361). This effigy is
+closely described in Murray. "It is apparently Flemish, and resembles in
+style that of Abbot de la Mare at St. Albans. He is vested in a chasuble
+and stole, has a chalice on his breast, and over him is a rich canopy,
+with, on the dexter side, St. Peter, and underneath SS. John the
+Evangelist and Bartholomew, and in corresponding places on the sinister
+SS. Paul, James the Great, and Andrew, with their respective emblems.
+Above is the Almighty holding the soul of the deceased; at the sides
+are two angels swinging censers." Separated from the chancel by an oaken
+screen is the chantry-chapel of St. Catherine, dating from early
+fourteenth century.
+
+_North Mimms Park_ surrounds the fine Jacobean manor house of red brick,
+recently in part restored, but originally built about 1600 by Sir Ralph
+Coningsby; it is very extensive and can show some good carving, and a
+chimney-piece dating from sixteenth century. E. from this park is
+_Potterels_, a modern house standing in another but smaller park, and E.
+again from Potterels is the more famous _Brookman's Park_, where, in
+1682, Andrew Fountaine erected the mansion soon afterwards purchased by
+the great Lord Somers who died here in 1716. The house was completely
+burnt down thirty years ago and has only in part been rebuilt. The
+further stretch of park adjoining Brookman's on the S. is _Gubbins_, or
+more correctly _Gobions_, where formerly stood the old manor house in
+which Sir Thomas More lived awhile with his family. The walks in each of
+these parks are very fine, and most beautifully wooded; they command
+distant views in many directions, and, in the autumn, are a perfect
+study in colour. No London cyclist should fail to visit this picturesque
+and interesting neighbourhood.
+
+MIMMS, SOUTH, recently included in the administrative county of Herts,
+has a restored, E. Perp. church, with fine massive W. tower. The Frowyk
+chantry, at E. end of N. aisle, contains a very ancient tomb with
+recumbent effigy of a knight in armour, under a richly designed canopy.
+The knight was a Frowyk, and there are also some mutilated brasses to
+this family. The village is prettily situated on rising ground, 1½ mile
+W. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R. (Middlesex).
+
+_Moneybury Hill_ is on the Bucks border, close to the Bridgewater
+Column, 2 miles S.W. from Tring Station.
+
+_Moor Green_ (3 miles W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet
+in Ardeley parish.
+
+_Morrell Green_ is a hamlet 2 miles E. from Barkway on the Essex border.
+The nearest station is Buntingford, nearly 6 miles S.E.
+
+_Mortgrove_, on the Beds border, is little more than a modern house, 1½
+mile S. from Hexton.
+
+_Munches Green_ lies in the centre of that quiet district of villages
+and hamlets which stretches between the G.N.R. and G.E.R. It is a hamlet
+a little S.E. from _Ardeley Bury_ and nearly 4 miles W. from Westmill
+Station, G.E.R.
+
+MUNDEN, GREAT, formerly Mundon Furnival, from Gerrard de Furnival, who
+was Lord of the Manor in the time of Richard I., is a village 2 miles W.
+from Braughing Station, G.E.R. There is a Norman doorway on the N. side
+of the church, and a small Perp. reredos which was discovered during
+restoration in 1865. There is a brass in the chancel to John Lightfoot,
+Canon of Ely (d. 1675). The hamlet of Nasty, a little N.E. from the
+church, now takes Munden Furnival as its alternative name, but the older
+historians give that title to the district around the parish church.
+
+MUNDEN, LITTLE, or Munden Frewell, is 2¼ miles S.W. from the above, and
+4 miles W. from Standon Station, G.E.R. The church, conspicuously placed
+on the hill, dates from the thirteenth century; it was restored in
+1866-68. It is a structure of many parts, consisting of nave of three
+bays, chancel, N. chapel, N. aisle, N. and S. porches, and W. tower.
+Note the two altar tombs beneath the chancel arcade, at the S. side of
+the chapel, each supporting the stone effigies of a male and female,
+presumably man and wife. They bear no inscriptions, but from the arms
+and shields figured on one of them it is conjectured to be the tomb of
+Sir John Thornbury, Kt., and his lady; whilst the other is probably that
+of his son Philip Thornbury and his wife: the former dates from about
+1340-50. Early in the fourteenth century the manor belonged to a Knight
+named Frewell or de Freville, hence the old adjunct of the village.
+_Rowney Abbey_, now a modern mansion, takes its name from Rowenea
+Priory, founded by Conan, Duke of Brittany, about 1164, and occupied for
+several generations by a Benedictine prioress and nuns. At Munden
+Street, or Dane End, ¼ mile S. from Little Munden, were formerly two or
+three large tumuli, long since levelled.
+
+_Nash Mills_, on the river Gade, is a hamlet in the parish of Apsley
+End, 2 miles S. from Hemel Hempstead. The House was the seat of Sir
+John Evans, K.C.B., F.R.S., etc., the great archæologist, who had a rich
+collection of coins, prehistoric flints, implements, etc., some of which
+were discovered in the neighbourhood.
+
+_Nettleden_ was formerly in Bucks, but was transferred to Herts a few
+years ago. The village is beautifully situated at the foot of a wooded
+hill, at the meeting of the roads from Great Gaddesden and Little
+Gaddesden. The small parish church is a Perp. structure of stone, with a
+N. porch; it was partly rebuilt by the last Duke of Bridgewater, and was
+restored in 1887. Note the carved oak pulpit, which, like that in Little
+Gaddesden Church, was the gift of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888). Sir John
+Cotton, Vice-Chamberlain to Edward VI., was buried here. The nearest
+station is Berkhampstead, L.&N.W.R., 2½ miles S.W.
+
+_New Mill_ is 1 mile N. from Tring, between the hamlets of Little Tring
+and Tring Grove. The famous reservoirs, often the resting-place of rare
+water-fowl, are within a short walk.
+
+_Newgate Street_, a small hamlet in Hatfield parish, is, however, 6
+miles S.E. from that town. It is in a prettily wooded district, close to
+_Ponsbourne Park_.
+
+NEWNHAM (2½ miles N. from Baldock) is a village lying on high ground,
+with an E.E. battlemented church on a little knoll above a brook. It
+consists of chancel, nave of four bays with clerestory, S. aisle and
+porch, and W. tower. The interior can show little of interest, but there
+are brasses, (1) on chancel floor, to Sir William Dyer, Bart. (d.
+1680); (2) to a family, the man in civic costume (_circa_ 1490); (3) to
+Joan, wife of James Dowman (d. 1607), and her eight children.
+
+_Newsell_, a hamlet 1 mile N. from Barkway, lies a little W. from the
+Cambridge Road. The nearest station is Royston, G.N.R., 3½ miles N.W.
+Newsell Park is a modern mansion S. from the hamlet.
+
+_No Man's Land_ is a large tract of common, partly covered by furze,
+stretching left from the road between Sandridge and Wheathampstead. Some
+years ago a farmer close by collected quite a museum of stuffed birds,
+etc., shot in the neighbourhood, which many persons visited, but I
+understand the collection is now dispersed.
+
+In 1884 Sir John Evans showed to Mr. W. G. Smith "a good white ovate
+palæolithic implement," one of two found on No Man's Land Common. In
+December, 1886, Mr. Smith visited the gravel pits there and found a
+somewhat similar implement _in situ_; this latter is engraved in his
+_Man the Primæval Savage_. At the same time Mr. Smith found two
+neolithic celts on the common.
+
+_Nobland Green_ (1¼ mile N.W. from Widford Station, G.E.R.) is little
+more than a farm and a few cottages.
+
+NORTHAW (2 miles E. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R.) is a village on
+the Middlesex border, near the source of the river Colne, and a place of
+considerable interest. In the wood N. from the village there lived a
+hermit named Sigar, the subject of some monkish legends. He lived about
+the time of Henry I., and was buried beside Roger the Monk (see Markyate
+Street) in the S. aisle of the Baptistery of St. Alban's Abbey. There
+was originally a small church close to the village, E.E. or perhaps late
+Norman; this was replaced by the cruciform church of St. Thomas Becket,
+a pseudo-Perp. structure, destroyed by fire in 1881; the present
+cruciform building of Ancaster stone is Dec. with a conspicuous W. tower
+carrying four pinnacles. Note the piscina, three sedilia and credence
+table in chancel; also the finely carved font of Ancaster stone, on
+marble pillars, presented by the children of the parish. There are
+several memorial windows, of only local interest; but the pulpit and
+reredos are both good, the former showing the four Evangelists in
+canopied recesses. Unfortunately, only a portion of the old registers
+were saved from the fire of 1881.
+
+NORTHCHURCH, or Berkhampstead St. Mary, forms one long street with Great
+Berkhampstead, but is a separate village, 1 mile W. from Berkhampstead
+Station, L.&N.W.R. The cruciform church is Dec.; it stands in a small
+graveyard close to the high road to Tring. The most curious memorial is
+the brass near the porch to Peter the Wild Boy, who was found wild in a
+forest in Hanover in 1725 and brought to England at the desire of Queen
+Caroline. He lived at a farm at Broadway (_q.v._) and died in 1785.
+There is also a curious sentence about this church in Chauncy: "Henry
+Axtil, a rich Man starved himself, and was buried here April 12, 1625, 1
+Car. I." The church was entirely restored in 1883, when the present N.
+aisle was added.
+
+_Northfield_, a small hamlet, is a little S. from Ivinghoe (Bucks).
+
+NORTON, near the tiny river Ivel and the Roman Icknield Way, is 1 mile
+W. from Baldock. The large building on the hill-top close by is the
+Three Counties Asylum. The manor belonged to the Abbot of St. Albans at
+the time of the Conquest; and in the year 1260 Roger de Norton, who took
+his name from this village, became the twenty-fourth abbot of that
+monastery. The church, E.E., is of great antiquity, some parts of it
+having been little altered; it is of flint, and stands at the N.E. end
+of the village. It contains two or three old memorials, but none of
+historic interest. A pretty walk from the church leads through Norton
+Bury and beside the Ivel to Radwell Mill.
+
+_Norton Green_, between Knebworth Park and Stevenage, is ½ mile W. from
+the Great North Road. It is a small hamlet.
+
+_Nup End_ (1½ mile W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is almost one with
+Knebworth Green. Codicote church is 1 mile S.W.
+
+_Nuthampstead_ (about 5 miles N.E. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) is
+a large hamlet on the Essex border. The parish churches of Barkway (W.),
+Anstey (S.W.), and Meesdon (S.E.) may all be reached within a short
+walk.
+
+OFFLEY or OFFLEY ST. LEGER (3 miles S.W. from Hitchin) is a village at
+the meeting of the ways from Hitchin, Temple Dinsley, and Lilley. It
+owes its name to Offa, King of the Mercians, who had a palace here, as
+we learn from his life by Matthew Paris, and its adjunct to the St.
+Legiers, who became Lords of the Manor soon after the Conquest. Miss
+Hester Salusbury, who became Mrs. Thrale, and afterwards Mrs. Piozzi,
+used as a child to visit at _Offley Place_, in the park close to the
+church. The old mansion was built by Sir Richard Spencer in 1600, and in
+part rebuilt early last century, when its style was changed from
+Jacobean to a form of Gothic.
+
+The church (restored Perp.) stands in the park, close to the road. Note
+(1) monument in chancel to Sir H. Penrice, Kt. (d. 1752); a figure of
+Truth standing on a sarcophagus of black marble, the whole finely
+executed; (2) monument in white marble, by Nollekens, to Sir Thomas
+Salusbury, Kt. (d. 1773), and Sarah his wife (d. 1804); (3) brass with
+effigy, to John Samwell (d. 1529), and his wives Elizabeth and Joan; (4)
+brass to a civilian and his family (_circa_ 1530); (5) well carved Perp.
+font.
+
+_Offley, Little_, is a hamlet 1¼ mile N.W. from the above.
+
+_Offley Green_ is 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R. The walk
+beside Julians[l] Park to Rushden, 1 mile S.W., is very pleasant.
+
+_Offley Holes_ (2½ miles S.W. from Hitchin) is a small hamlet. Offley
+Grange, Offley Hoo, Offley Cross and Offley Bottom are all in the
+immediate neighbourhood, W. and N.W.
+
+_Old Hall Green_ (1½ mile W. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) lies W. from
+the Old North Road. It is a small hamlet.
+
+OXHEY (2 miles S. from Watford) is a hamlet on the Middlesex border. It
+has a good modern church, E.E. in style. N. lies _Oxhey Place_, on the
+site of the old home of the Heydon family, rebuilt by Sir William
+Bucknall in 1668, and again by Hon. William Bucknall in 1799. The
+chapel, close to the old mansions, was spared by both those renovators,
+but has since been repeatedly restored. It contains many interesting
+monuments, conspicuous among which is that on the S. wall to Sir James
+Altham (d. 1617) who had built the chapel on the site of an earlier
+structure in 1612. The old judge is represented kneeling in his robes
+between two pillars, beneath a canopy of alabaster; behind him is the
+effigy of his third wife Helen (Saunderson). Note the carved oak
+seventeenth century reredos, occupying the whole of the E. end of the
+chapel. It is divided into three compartments by two columns, massive
+and twisted, with Corinthian capitals; these support a frieze, with
+cornice and pediment. Note also the oak ceiling, and the five Tudor
+windows (replaced). _Oxhey Hall_, N.W. from the chapel, is now a farm;
+but can still show the wonderful ceiling of carved oak, in sixteen
+panels, which must be very ancient.
+
+PANSHANGER PARK, Lord Desborough, K.C.V.O, should be visited by all who
+love an historic home surrounded by beautiful scenery. It lies almost
+midway between Hatfield and Ware Parks; the house itself is 1½ mile N.
+from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. The park is very extensive (about 900
+acres); the river Maran flows through it from W. to S.E., opening into a
+lake S. from the house. It is famous for its splendid timber; the
+wonderful "Panshanger Oak," one of the very largest in England, stands
+W. from the house.
+
+Panshanger is not a "correct" structure from an architectural
+standpoint; the writer of Murray's Handbook describes it well as "a
+stucco-fronted, semi-castellated Gothic mansion of the Walpole-Wyatt
+type". Most ramblers, however, are not architects, and the grey stone
+mansion and its surroundings are, as a whole, as picturesque as they can
+well be. The greater part of it was built by Peter, fifth Earl Cowper,
+in 1801; but the picture gallery, overlooking the terrace and gardens,
+was a later addition. The house was partially burnt in 1855. The older
+home of the family stood at Cole Green--then called Colne Green.
+
+The famous _Cowper Collection_ is largely the result of the taste and
+perseverance of the third earl, who resided for some years at Florence.
+Only a few of the pictures can be named here: Madonna, by Raphael
+(1508); Holy Family, by Fra Bartolommeo; Mountainous Coast (fishermen in
+foreground), by Salvator Rosa; Nativity, by Carlo Dolce; Virgin
+Enthroned, by Paul Veronese; Third Earl Cowper and His Family; First
+Earl Cowper, by Sir Godfrey Kneller; Francis Bacon, by Van Somer;
+Turenne, by Rembrandt; Charles Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, by
+Janssens. The whole collection is worth careful study. Permission to
+view may be obtained when the family are away.
+
+PARK STREET, a large hamlet with station 1/3 mile W. (L.&N.W.R.), is on
+the river Colne, 2 miles S. from St. Albans. The parish church is at
+Frogmore (_q.v._).
+
+_Parker's Green_ (4 miles S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) is a
+hamlet adjoining Wood End.
+
+_Patient End_ may be reached from Braughing Station, G.E.R., 4 miles
+S.E., the road being more direct than that from Westmill Station, about
+the same distance as the crow flies. The hamlet lies between Albury and
+Furneaux Pelham.
+
+_Patmore Heath_ is 1 mile S.E. from the above.
+
+_Pepperstock_, a hamlet on the Beds border, is a little W. from the
+Harpenden-Luton road, and close to Luton Hoo Park.
+
+_Perry Green_ (1¼ mile S.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R.) is a small
+scattered hamlet.
+
+_Peter's Green_, on the Beds border, lies at the meeting of several
+roads; the Half Moon and Rising Star with a few cottages comprise the
+hamlet. The descent W. towards Chiltern Green Station, M.R., commands a
+fine view, looking towards Luton Hoo Park. The several ways (one is
+hardly more than a lane) lead S.E. to Kimpton, S. to Harpenden, N. to
+Lawrence End Park, and N.E. to Breachwood Green and Bendish.
+
+_Piccotts End_ is passed when going from Hemel Hempstead to Great
+Gaddesden. It is on the river Gade, at the N.E. extremity of Gadesbridge
+Park.
+
+_Pin Green_ (1½ mile E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) lies between the
+Great North Road and the river Beane.
+
+PIRTON (3½ miles N.W. from Hitchin) is an ancient village on the Beds
+border, said to owe its name to one Peri, who possessed it in Saxon
+times. William I. gave it to Ralph de Limesie, or Limesy, who founded
+the church and gave the tithes of it to the Abbey of St. Albans. The
+site of the castle built by Ralph is thought to be at Toot Hill, W. from
+the church, where a moat may be traced. The church was originally
+cruciform, but the transepts have long disappeared; the tower, massive
+and embattled, still standing between nave and chancel. Restoration has
+been carefully carried on recently; the tower was rebuilt in 1877, but
+some Norman work may still be traced in its arches. Note (1) monument
+and curious inscription to Jane, wife of Thomas Docwra (d. 1645); (2)
+double piscina, fourteenth century, in S. wall of chancel.
+
+Pirton should be visited for the fine old houses in its neighbourhood.
+_High Down_, S. from the church, is Elizabethan, with gables, twisted
+chimneys and mullioned windows; it was formerly the home of the Docwras.
+_Pirton Hall_, on a hill N.W. from the village, is also Elizabethan, and
+the _Rectory Manor House_ and _Hammond's Farm_ are both ancient. In the
+latter is some fine old carved oak.
+
+_Plummers_ is 1½ mile S.W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R. It consists of
+a few cottages.
+
+_Ponfield_ lies between Bedwell and Bayfordbury Parks. It is a small
+hamlet nearly 2 miles S.E. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Poplar's Green_ is on the river Maran, on the W. edge of Panshanger
+Park. The old church at Tewin is less than 1 mile N.W. The station is
+Cole Green.
+
+_Potten End_ (2 miles N.E. from Berkhampstead Station, L.&N.W.R.) has a
+modern chapel-of-ease to Nettleden (1 mile N.). The hamlet is prettily
+situated between the rivers Gade and Bulbourne.
+
+PRESTON (4 miles W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+beautifully situated on high ground. The Church of St. Martin is a small
+building a few yards W. from the green, a modern erection; close by is
+the Bunyan Chapel, and ½ mile N. is Bunyan's dell, where the author of
+the _Pilgrim's Progress_ often preached. _Temple Dinsley_, a manor house
+a little E. from the Red Lion, stands on the site of the preceptory of
+the Knights Templars, founded by Bernard de Baliol in the reign of
+Stephen.
+
+_Primrose Hill_ is a hamlet in King's Langley parish, ½ mile N. from the
+station, L.&N.W.R.
+
+PUCKERIDGE, a village on the Old North Road, nearly 1 mile S.W. from
+Braughing Station, G.E.R., was visited by Pepys on more than one
+occasion. Here, at the White Hart Inn, the road divides, going left
+nearly due N. to Royston and right to Cambridge. The village lies partly
+in Standon and partly in Braughing parish. The nearest church is at
+Standon, 1 mile S.E., but divine service is conducted in the church
+schoolroom.
+
+_Puddephats_ (3 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet in
+Flamstead parish.
+
+_Purwell Mill_, on the river Purwell or Pirrel, 1 mile E. from Hitchin,
+stands near the spot where the tesselated pavement of a Roman villa was
+discovered many years ago, in excellent preservation.
+
+PUTTENHAM (1½ mile S. from Marston Gate Station, L.&N.W.R.) lies near
+the Clinton chalk hills, in the extreme W. of the county, on the Bucks
+border. The church, close to the village, is of several periods, parts
+of the structure being E.E. and other portions Perp. and Tudor. Several
+portions should be carefully noted: (1) very large embattled W. tower,
+built of blocks of Ketton stone with flints laid in squares between each
+block; (2) roof of nave, thought to date from _temp._ Edward IV.; with
+two shields under the ridges, one bearing the arms of Zouch, the church
+having belonged to the Priory of Ashby; (3) solid oak pews, probably
+coeval with nave roof. The S. porch was rebuilt in 1889. The vill of
+Puteham belonged to Leofwin, brother to Harold Godwin; William I. gave
+it to his half-brother, Odo, Bishop of Bayeux.
+
+_Queen Hoo Hall._ (See Bramfield.)
+
+_Rabley Heath_ (1 mile S.W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) adjoins
+Sallow Wood. Knebworth and Codicote churches are about equidistant (1¼
+mile), N.W. and S.W. respectively.
+
+RADLETT, with station on M.R. (main line), is about 5 miles S. from St.
+Albans, on the high-road from the Marble Arch to that city. Seen left
+from the train the neighbourhood is very pretty, the spire of the church
+showing among the trees some distance before the station is reached. The
+cruciform church is modern (1864), E. Dec. in style, with several good
+windows of stained glass. A picturesque ramble may be taken by turning
+into any lane in the vicinity, especially towards the Valley of the
+Colne, W. A potter's kiln of the Roman Age was discovered here.
+
+RADWELL, on the Beds border, is in a charming district, threaded by the
+little river Ivel, 1½ mile N.N.W. from Baldock. The mill is reached by
+turning left after passing The Compasses, a quaint old inn, where a
+story is told of the "Maid of the Mill," a local beauty, who captured
+many hearts in days long past.[5] Between The Compasses and the mill
+stands the little Perp. church, very ancient, but in part restored on
+several occasions. It has no tower, the two bells hanging in a small
+turret at the W. end of nave. Here, as at Norton, there are several
+memorials to the Pym family; and a few others worth noting: (1) brass,
+with effigies, to John Bell, Gent. (d. 1516), and his two wives; this
+was discovered during restoration, about twenty-five years ago, but the
+inscription was copied by Chauncy, so it must have been hidden by some
+alterations effected after, say, 1690; (2) marble monument to John
+Parker, Kt. (d. 1595), and Mary, his wife (d. 1574); the latter was
+buried at Baldock. There is also a small brass to Elizabeth (Gage or
+Cage), wife of John Parker (d. 1602). The font is fourteenth century.
+Radwell, formerly Reedwell, is said to owe its name to the many reeds
+that grew by the river-side. There are plenty of moor hens, coots and
+dab-chicks on the lake-like expansion of the Ivel near the mill.
+
+[Footnote 5: The story of the "Maid of the Mill" is, I understand, told
+in an early number of _Temple Bar_.]
+
+_Red Heath_ is in the parish of Croxley Green, 2 miles N.N.E. from
+Rickmansworth.
+
+_Red Hill_, 4 miles E. from Baldock, is a small hamlet in a very quiet
+neighbourhood. The nearest church is at Wallington, ¾ mile N.W.
+_Julians_, a substantial house in the park, ½ mile S., was built early
+in the seventeenth century.
+
+REDBOURN (_i.e._, the road by the burn) lies on the old Watling Street,
+4 miles N.W. from St. Albans. The river Ver, here a small stream, skirts
+the E. side of the village. The old manor, like that of Abbots Langley,
+was given to the Abbey of St. Albans by Egelwine the Black and
+Wincelfled, his wife, in the days of Edward the Confessor. St.
+Amphibalus was probably buried here after his martyrdom; his barrow was
+on the Common, and the story of the removal of his bones to St. Albans
+is narrated in Matthew Paris, and is referred to in the Introduction
+(Section IX.). The church of St. Mary, at Church End, ¾ mile W. from the
+station (M.R.), dates from Norman times; the only existing portions of
+the ancient structure are the three columns of the N. aisle arcade, but
+much thirteenth and fourteenth centuries work still stands. It was
+largely rebuilt by Abbot John Wheathampsted (_temp._ Henry VI.). Note
+(1) almost unique carved oak rood screen, double canopied; (2) pointed
+arches of S. side of nave, replacing those defaced during the
+Commonwealth; (3) Eastern sepulchre and sedilia in chancel; (4) piscinæ
+in N. aisle and lady-chapel; (5) brass in chancel, with eight kneeling
+effigies, without date; (6) brass in chancel to Richard Pecock, or Pekok
+(d. 1512). There are silk and corn mills on the Ver, close by.
+
+REED lies on the chalk range, midway between Buntingford and Royston,
+about 3½ miles S. from Royston Station, G.N.R. The village lies right
+from the Old North Road. One of the best Norman doorways in the county
+is on the N. of the little church, which also contains good Dec.
+portions. The tower alone was untouched during the restoration of sixty
+years ago. Some remains of two moats are a little E. from the village;
+Reed End, Reed Green and Reed Wood, are in the vicinity. The
+neighbourhood is less wooded and picturesque than most of the county.
+
+_Revel End_ (1½ mile S.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet.
+
+RICKMANSWORTH is in the extreme S.W. of the county; the rivers Colne,
+Chess, and Gade unite here, close to the Grand Junction Canal; and it is
+easy to understand why the place was formerly called "Rykemereswearth,"
+_i.e._, the rich moor-meadow. It is a compact little town with many
+quaint houses and quainter by-paths. The residence now called _Basing
+House_, in the High Street, was for some time the home of William Penn,
+the Quaker; a photograph of it was long since reproduced in the
+_Quiver_. The manor was given by Offa to the Abbots of St. Albans, who
+retained it till the Dissolution, after which Edward VI. granted it to
+Nicholas Ridley, Bishop of London. Henry III. granted a market to be
+held in the town every Wednesday; it was subsequently held on Saturday,
+but has long been discontinued. Paper-making and brewing are now largely
+carried on in the neighbourhood.
+
+The church, at the S. end of Church Street, was rebuilt (except the
+tower) in 1826; and again in 1870, from designs by Sir Arthur Blomfield.
+It is Perp., almost entirely embattled, and is constructed of flints,
+with stone dressings. Note (1) sedilia, piscina and modern oak stalls
+in chancel; (2) restored marble altar tomb carrying shield of arms, and
+inscription to Sir Henry Cary, Baron of Leppington and Earl of Monmouth
+(d. 1661); (3) brass with effigy to Thomas Day (d. 1613), and his wives
+Alice (d. 1585), and Joane (d. 1598); a separate inscription in the
+"Ashbie Chapple" ran--I am not sure if it is still preserved:--
+
+    "Here ly byrid undyr this stone
+    Thomas Davy and his two Wyfs Alice and Joan".
+
+The vicarage is thought to be the oldest in Hertfordshire; it still
+retains portions dating from the middle of the fifteenth century.
+
+One mile S. is _Moor Park_ (Lord Ebury). The house has undergone many
+changes. George Nevil, Archbishop of York, built a house in the park in
+the reign of Edward IV., and sometimes entertained that monarch, and we
+read of a lodge (was it Nevil's house?) being here when Cardinal Wolsey
+owned the manor of "More Park". The estate changed hands several times
+before we find it in the hands of the unfortunate James Fitzroy, Duke of
+Monmouth, who is believed to have built a large mansion on the site of
+the present house. This mansion was almost rebuilt by B. H. Styles, a
+man who made a fortune over South Sea Shares, and is said to have spent
+£130,000 in erecting and adorning his house in this beautiful park, with
+the assistance of the architect Leoni. The house that Styles built still
+largely survives in the present structure, after several alterations
+and much embellishment during eighteenth, nineteenth and twentieth
+centuries. It is a large and stately mansion of Portland stone, with
+fine Corinthian portico, the columns of which are about 50 feet high.
+The vast hall was almost covered with classical and mediæval designs by
+Sir James Thornhill, who had to sue Styles before he could obtain his
+remuneration; note the huge statues supporting the five marble doorways.
+The house may be seen to advantage some distance from the terrace; but
+it must be remembered that it no longer retains its wings, which were
+removed when Mr. T. B. Rous lived at Moor Park towards the end of the
+eighteenth century.
+
+Permission must be obtained before the park, grounds or house can be
+inspected. The park contains about 500 acres and is famous for its
+splendid timber, some of its oaks being of almost perfect development
+and proportions.
+
+[Illustration: RICKMANSWORTH]
+
+_Rickmansworth Park_, N. from the town, has a modern house well
+situated. The park stretches nearly to Loudwater Mill on the river
+Chess, and is, like Moor Park, beautifully wooded.
+
+RIDGE (2½ miles S.W. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R.) is on the
+Middlesex border, close to South Mimms. The village doubtless owes its
+name to its situation on the hill. The small church is mainly Perp., but
+the chancel is E. Dec.; it contains several memorials to the Blount
+family, including one to Charles Blount (1654-93). He was an infidel of
+more bitterness than ability, as may be seen from his translation of
+Philostratus's _Apollonius Tyanæus_; readers may remember that his _Just
+Vindication of Learning_, etc., was stigmatised by Macaulay as "garbled
+extracts" from Milton's _Areopagitica_. On being refused a licence to
+marry his deceased wife's sister, he committed suicide--Pope says he
+"despatch'd himself". The Blount family resided in the neighbourhood for
+many generations; Sir Henry Pope Blount, father of the above-mentioned
+Charles, "built here a fair structure of Brick, made fair Walks and
+Gardens to it, and died seiz'd thereof". He was the author of _A Voyage
+into the Levant_.
+
+_Ringshall_ is a hamlet on the Bucks border, in the parish of Little
+Gaddesden.
+
+_Roe Green_ (4 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) is in a pleasant
+and very quiet neighbourhood. The nearest parish church is Sandon, about
+1 mile N.E. Roe Wood is a little N. from the hamlet.
+
+_Roestock_, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is 1 mile N. from the
+Park. Smallford Station, G.N.R., is 1 mile N.W.
+
+_Round Bush_ consists of a few cottages, 1½ mile S.W. from Radlett
+Station, M.R.
+
+_Row Green_ (1¼ mile S.W. from Hatfield) lies close to the road from St.
+Albans to Hatfield. Row Hyde is a little farther S.W.
+
+_Rowley Green_, on the road from Barnet Gate to Shenley, is nearly 2
+miles E. from Elstree Station, M.R.
+
+[Illustration: THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON]
+
+ROYSTON, an ancient market town on the Icknield Way at its junction
+with Ermine Street, was until recently partly in Cambs. It is supposed
+to owe its name to a Dame Roesia who placed a cross here on the highway,
+near which spot a monastery of Black Canons was founded by Eustace de
+Mere and others in the reign of Henry II. Early in the reign of Henry
+IV. the town was almost destroyed by fire. Royston enjoyed several
+market privileges in the good old days, and it is recorded that early in
+the fifteenth century wheat was so plentiful that it was sold in Royston
+market for 12d. a quarter.
+
+The church was erected close to the monastery late in the thirteenth
+century, and at the Dissolution was constituted the parish church.
+Thirty years ago it was restored, and more recently enlarged, and is now
+an imposing structure of flint and rubble, E.E. in style. The tower (W.)
+is embattled and carries four pinnacles. The fine lancet windows in the
+chancel were discovered during restoration in 1872, as were also the
+fragments of the old screen, since pieced together to form the present
+pulpit and reading desk. The alabaster effigy in the chancel, of a
+knight in armour, is believed to represent one of the Scales family.
+There are several old brasses: (1) to William Taberam, Rector of
+Therfield (d. 1432), this was large, but only the upper part now
+remains; (2) to a civilian and his wife (_circa_ 1500); (3) to Father
+William Chamber, who founded an annual sermon to be preached in the
+church on Rogation Mondays (d. 1546). There are some good modern windows
+of stained glass.
+
+James I., who had been entertained at Royston by Robert Chester during
+his progress from Scotland to London, built a lodge near Royston Heath,
+to which both he and Charles I. occasionally resorted, the latter being
+brought here as prisoner in 1647. Some cottages still standing on the
+outskirts of the Heath are said to have been used for stables when James
+I. used to hunt in the neighbourhood, and by inquiring for the "Old
+Palace" visitors will be shown what little remains of his Majesty's
+hunting lodge. The Heath is now famous for its fine golf links.
+
+Beneath the old boundary between the two counties, and close to the Post
+Office, is the famous _Royston Cave_, which visitors should not fail to
+see. It was accidentally discovered in 1742 by some men who were digging
+a hole in the market-place, and is now entered by a specially
+constructed passage under the street. It was visited by Louis XVIII.
+Hewn out of the solid chalk, its greatest height is about 25 ft., its
+diameter about 17 ft. It contains curious, and in some cases uncouth
+figures and coloured reliefs of saints, kings, queens, etc., of all
+sizes and ages, and some crucifixes. The late Joseph Beldam, F.S.A., was
+of opinion that the cave dates from pre-Christian times, that it became
+in turn a Roman sepulchre and an oratory, and that it was closed during
+the Reformation.
+
+There are still the traces of several tumuli in the neighbourhood, and
+ancient coins, etc., have been found, but the evidences of any Roman
+occupation are not very convincing.
+
+Royston is a somewhat quaint town, with some narrow byways and
+odd-looking houses, amongst which the Old Plough Inn is not the least
+noticeable.
+
+_Rush Green_ (1 mile S. from Ware) is a small hamlet.
+
+_Rushden_, formerly Risendene and Risden (5 miles S.E. from Baldock),
+has a stuccoed brick church, Dec. and Perp. Chauncy saw in it, "no
+Inscription, Monument, or other Remark," but in 1754 the monument of Sir
+Adolphus Meetkerke, Kt., was brought here from St. Botolph's,
+Aldersgate. Meetkerke was Ambassador from Flanders to the Court of Queen
+Elizabeth, and the author of several volumes. Note the canopy in nave,
+thought to have covered a statue of the Virgin. In the reign of Henry
+II. the patronage of the church was given by William Basset, Sheriff of
+Leicestershire, to the Canons and Church of St. Peter's at Dunstable.
+
+_Rustling Green_ is midway between Knebworth and St. Paul's Walden
+Parks. The district is prettily diversified by small woods. By the
+shortest way through the park Knebworth Station is about 3½ miles E.
+
+THE RYE HOUSE, on the W. bank of the river Lea, is a famous resort of
+fishermen, excursionists and folk wishing to see the Great Bed of Ware,
+brought here from Ware in 1869. The bed is a huge construction of solid
+oak, quaintly carved, and large enough to hold twelve adults, as is
+proved by a story which can readily be found by the curious, but which
+is unfit for repetition in these pages. It is alluded to by Shakespeare,
+Byron and other writers. The present Rye House is modern, but attached
+to it are some remains of the old House, some account of which must be
+given here.
+
+In his description of the "Mannor of the Rye" Chauncy says, "King Henry
+VI. granted licence to Andrew Ogard and others, that they might impark
+the scite of the Mannor of Rye, otherwise called the Isle of Rye in
+Stansted Abbot, fifty Acres of Land, eleven Acres of Meadow, eight Acres
+of Pasture and Sixteen Acres of Wood, erect a Castle there with Lime and
+Stone, make Battlements and Loopholes &c."[6] The castle built by Ogard
+passed into the hands of the Baesh family; it was doubtless in part
+rebuilt at different times, for what remains of it is of brick. In
+course of time it became the property of Lieut., afterwards Col.,
+Rumbold, known as "Hannibal" among his associates, who had been a
+private in Fairfax's famous regiment of 1648. This man was the
+originator of the _Rye House Plot_.
+
+[Footnote 6: _Hist. Antiq. of Hertfordshire_, etc., vol. i., p. 383, ed.
+1826.]
+
+The story of that plot may be recapitulated in few words. In the spring
+of 1683 Charles II. and James Duke of York were at Newmarket. Rumbold
+and some of his ultra-Republican friends heard that the Royal party
+would return to London by way of Rye House. They met together and
+arranged to secrete some men in the house, to create a disturbance as
+the King passed and to kill him in the confusion which would follow. The
+King escaped--probably, as most writers agree, because he left Newmarket
+earlier than was expected. The plot soon became known, the Rye House was
+searched and many persons were charged with High Treason. Two
+illustrious men became implicated, through the allegations of Howard of
+Escrick and others--Algernon Sidney and Lord Russell. Both were
+certainly innocent, but both were beheaded, and Russell was buried at
+Chenies in Bucks (almost on the Herts border). Rumbold fled to Holland,
+joined the expedition which Argyle headed in Scotland, and was hanged in
+Edinburgh in 1685. Visitors to the neighbourhood of the Rye House will
+perhaps be assured that Rumbold suffered on a tree near by, but such was
+not the case.
+
+SACOMBE (4 miles N.W. from Ware) lies scattered over a considerable
+district. It was long ago called Suevecamp (_i.e._, Suaviscampus)
+because of its pleasant situation. The small Dec. church stands on the
+hill, at the N. end of the Park; it is of ancient foundation, but was
+entirely restored about fifty years ago. There are two sedilia and a
+piscina in the chancel, and two brasses, to John Dodyngton and Eleanor
+his wife (d. 1544 and 1550 respectively). Sacombe Park is beautifully
+timbered; the present house of red brick dates from about 1800.
+
+ST. ALBANS is one of the most ancient and interesting places in England;
+it became a city on the foundation of the Bishopric of St. Albans in
+1877. It may be approached by road from London, (1) by way of Barnet and
+London Colney, the G.N.R. Station (branch from Hatfield) being passed on
+the left nearly a mile from the old clock tower and market-place; (2) by
+way of Edgware, Elstree and Radlett, by which route, after passing St.
+Stephens, the L.&N.W.R. Station (branch from Watford) is on the right
+and the steep Holywell Hill leading to High Street is straight before.
+The river Ver skirts the entire S. limits of the city itself; the field
+that slopes upwards from the silk mill, in a N. direction, is called the
+Abbey Orchard, and on the summit of the slope stands the great Abbey of
+St. Alban.
+
+As the ancient Roman city--the _Verulamium_ of Antoninus--stood some
+distance to the W., a brief account of it will be found under the
+heading Verulam. The history of St. Albans itself commences with the
+death of Alban, the proto-martyr of Britain, who was flogged with rods
+and beheaded by the Romans for having sheltered the priest Amphibalus,
+connived at his escape, and adopted his faith (_circa_ 285-305; the
+date is very uncertain). During the fifth century the Saxons captured
+and destroyed Verulam and built a new town on the hill some distance E.
+This they named _Watlingceaster_ (the town on Watling Street), but when
+(793) Offa built a monastery to the memory of Alban on Holmhurst Hill,
+the traditionary site of the martyrdom, the town itself became known as
+St. Albans. Gildas, Bede and other old authorities agree that an earlier
+church stood on this spot; they state, indeed, that it was built soon
+after the death of St. Alban.
+
+The plan of the city is, like the Abbey, cruciform, four old high-roads
+meeting together near the Clock Tower, N.W. from Dunstable, S.W. from
+Watford, S.E. from London, N.E. from Wheathampstead. The latter unites
+with the road from Harpenden and Luton at The Cricketers, ¼ mile N.W.
+from St. Peter's Church. The four roads, on entering the city, are
+respectively called Verulam Road, Holywell Hill, London Road and St.
+Peter's Street; one of the oldest thoroughfares, however, is that called
+Fishpool Street, which runs from near the W. end of the Abbey to the
+flour mill on the Ver. Quite recently several of the oldest houses in
+the neighbourhood were in this street; but some have now been pulled
+down.
+
+[Illustration: THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBAN'S
+               _The oldest Inn in England_]
+
+We will enter the city from the direction of St. Stephens. Crossing the
+bridge over the Ver, we turn left by the Duke of Marlborough, pass
+through the gate near the river side and keeping the cress-beds on
+the left reach the silk mill. Turning right we ascend the hill W. of the
+Abbey orchard, obtaining meanwhile a fine view of the stately W. front
+of the Abbey itself, as reconstructed by Lord Grimthorpe. Our way into
+the city lies through the old, partially ivy-clad _Gate House_, a relic
+of the Benedictine Monastery; note the Perp. pointed arch and vaulted
+roof. This was originally the entrance to the Abbey court, the "Magna
+Porta" of the old monastic days. There was a former structure on or near
+the same spot; this was blown down and the present building dates from
+the rule of Thomas de la Mere, thirtieth abbot (1349-96). Used as a jail
+some centuries ago, it has long been known as St. Alban's _Grammar
+School_; the battlemented house S.W. of the archway is the residence of
+the head master. The claims of this school to be _the oldest in England_
+cannot be adequately discussed here. Suffice it to say that documents
+attesting its existence date from Abbot Richard de Albini (1097-1119);
+his successor, Geoffrey de Gorham, came from Normandy to become its
+master. Matthew Paris records that the school was afterwards kept by a
+nephew of Abbot Warine (or Warren) de Cambridge, and had at that time
+more scholars than any school in England. Passing through the arch we
+notice on the left a small, triangular burial ground. The spot is called
+Romeland. Here George Tankerville was burnt by order of Bishop Bonner,
+on 26th August, 1556.
+
+Passing straight forward into Spicer Street the _Congregational
+Chapel_, founded in 1797, is on the right. A little farther on is
+College Street; on the left side stands the house in which Cowper was
+placed under the charge of Dr. Cotton when his insanity was most
+pronounced. To reach the old _Clock Tower_ we turn right into Verulam
+Street and left into High Street. The Tower stands at the S. end of the
+Market Place; note the quaint, narrow thoroughfare at its W. side,
+called French Row. The Tower is Perp., of flint and dressed stone,
+battlemented, and surmounted by a small spire; the basement has long
+been utilised as a saddler's shop. It dates from the fifteenth
+century,[7] but was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1864. In it hangs
+the great bell "Gabriel" cast early in the reign of Edward III.; it is
+now used for striking the hour and formerly tolled the curfew. In the
+foreground, where the drinking fountain now stands, was "Eleanor's
+Cross," erected, like the cross at Waltham (_q.v._), by Edward I. in
+memory of his Queen. It was destroyed about 1700. The old market-place,
+so quaint even fifty years ago, is now largely occupied by modern shops;
+partly by reason of a fire which occurred many years back.
+
+[Footnote 7: Clutterbuck says it was erected between 1402 and 1427.]
+
+Continuing our way up the market-place we pass the _Town Hall_ or _Court
+House_ on the right, an Italian structure dating from 1826, and the
+broad St. Peter's Street opens before us, leading to the old church
+dedicated to that saint. The church is one of three built by Abbot
+Ulsinus in Saxon times; the date of their foundation is very uncertain,
+but we may bear in mind that the first abbot, Willegod, ruled at the
+close of the eighth century, that Ulsinus was the sixth abbot, and that
+six others ruled during Pre-Norman times. St. Peter's Church, largely
+restored by Lord Grimthorpe, is therefore of great antiquity as a
+foundation; the present structure is chiefly late Perp. with a lofty E.
+tower carrying four pinnacles, the latter an addition by the restorer.
+The position of the tower (elsewhere almost invariably W.) is explained
+by the fact that the old church was cruciform, and that when, at the
+beginning of last century, the extreme E. of the chancel and the
+transepts were found much dilapidated they were pulled down, the old
+tower thereby losing its central position. Note the E. Perp. arches
+separating nave and aisles; the pulpit a good example of Belgian
+carving, and the old stained glass in windows of N. aisle; the stained
+glass in other windows is modern. Concerning the brass to Roger
+Pemberton, Sheriff of Herts (d. 13th November, 1627), a story is told.
+If the visitor passes out of the churchyard by the N.W. gate he will be
+_vis-à-vis_ to the almshouses founded in 1627 on the W. side of what was
+then "St. Peter's Street, Bowgate". Pemberton is said to have been
+shooting in the woods, to have shot a widow by accident, and to have
+founded these almshouses for widows, and endowed them with £30 per
+annum for ever as a salve to his conscience. There is an iron arrow over
+the old brick gateway before the houses, which seems to countenance the
+story. There were formerly many other brasses in the church, but the
+inscriptions on some of them must now be sought in the county histories.
+A few, however, remain, _e.g._, one with shield of arms to Mrs.
+Elizabeth Wyndham (d. 1735). In the N. aisle is the tomb of Edward
+Strong (d. 1723), "Master Mason" of St. Paul's Cathedral; in the
+churchyard lies Dr. Nathaniel Cotton, the friend of Cowper (see page
+180) (d. 1788). Among those who fell in the battles of St. Albans (of
+which more will be said presently) and were buried in this church or
+graveyard were (1) Sir Bertin Entwysel, Kt., Baron of Brybeke in
+Normandy; (2) Ralph Babthorpe and Ralph his son, of an old Yorkshire
+family. As a matter of fact a great number of the slain were buried
+here; Chauncy says "this Church and Churchyard was filled with the
+Bodies of those that were slain in the two battles fought in this town".
+
+The two other churches founded by Abbot Ulsinus are those of St. Stephen
+and St. Michael.
+
+_St. Stephen's Church_ stands ¾ mile S.W. from the Clock Tower, at the
+junction of the roads from Edgware and Watford. It was restored by Sir
+Gilbert Scott in 1861-62; but still retains some ancient features;
+_e.g._, the late Norman arch in N. wall, formerly in part separating
+the nave from the N. aisle (now absent), and two Norman windows, widely
+splayed, in W. wall. Note (1) brass eagle-lectern, believed to have been
+formerly in the Abbey at Holyrood; (2) double piscina in S. aisle; (3)
+fifteenth century font. The oldest brass, much worn, is in the S.
+chapel; it is to the memory of William Robins, Clerk of the Signet to
+Edward IV., (d. 1482) and Katherine his wife.
+
+[Illustration: LORD BACON'S MONUMENT]
+
+_St. Michael's Church_, about ¾ mile W. from the Clock Tower, stands on
+gently rising ground close to the carriage road to Gorhambury. It is
+believed to occupy, approximately, the centre of what was the ancient
+city of Verulam (_q.v._) and to mark the site of a Roman temple. It has
+been restored, and the tower rebuilt, by Lord Grimthorpe; the work was
+only completed two or three years ago. Flint and tiles taken from the
+surrounding ruins by the builders still exist in the walls; but repeated
+restorations have almost obliterated the evidences of its antiquity.
+There are brasses (1) to Thomas Wolvey, an Esquire to Richard II. (d.
+1430); (2) to "John Pecok et Maud sa femme" (_circa_ 1340-50); but the
+monument of paramount interest is that in the recess N. of the chancel,
+to Francis Bacon, Baron Verulam and Viscount St. Albans (d. 9th April,
+1626). The great philosopher and Lord Chancellor is represented as
+sitting in a tall chair, leaning his head upon his left hand; a Jacobean
+ruff is round his neck and a wide hat upon his head; the sculptor
+(unknown) has succeeded admirably in imparting an air of abstraction to
+the countenance. Of Bacon's house at _Gorhambury_, 1½ mile farther W.,
+little remains except some fragments of wall and tower, with projecting
+entrance[m] porch. In the yet remaining spandrels of the arches are
+medallions of Roman Emperors; over the porch are the arms of Elizabeth.
+The present mansion, a little E. from the ruins, was commenced in 1778
+by James third Viscount Grimston; it has been considerably altered, but
+retains the grand N. portico; the pediment, supported by ten Corinthian
+columns, reaches to the roof. The hall is very large, and contains
+portraits of Francis Bacon, George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, and
+other worthies. There are numerous pictures in other apartments,
+including portraits of Sir Nicholas Bacon, Thomas Wentworth, Earl of
+Stafford, Queen Elizabeth, Robert Devereux, Catherine of Braganza and
+William Pitt.
+
+[Illustration: RUINS OF LORD BACON'S HOUSE]
+
+There were three monastic institutions on the outskirts of the town:--
+
+(1) The Leper Hospital of _St. Julian_, founded by Geoffrey de Gorham,
+sixteenth Abbot of St. Albans, on a spot close to St. Stephen's Church.
+Of this no vestige remains.
+
+(2) The Hospital of _St. Mary de Pré_, for women-lepers, founded about
+fifty years after the above by Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot, on
+either side of the old Watling Street. Some of the graves in the
+churchyard attached to the hospital were visible so recently as 1827,
+and the cottages known as the "Three Chimnies," originally part of the
+hospital itself, were pulled down in 1849.[8]
+
+[Footnote 8: _Vide_ _Historical Records of St. Albans_, by A. E. Gibbs,
+F.L.S., etc.; a most interesting little volume.]
+
+(3) _Sopwell Nunnery_, founded by Abbot Geoffrey de Gorham about 1140,
+at a spot a little S. from the Old London Road, on the river Ver. The
+masses of ivy-mantled ruins still to be seen, and usually called the
+"ruins of Sopwell Nunnery," are, at least for the most part, the remains
+of the house built by Sir Richard Lee, to whom the manor was granted at
+the Dissolution.
+
+ST. ALBANS ABBEY.--The Abbey has been so repeatedly altered and restored
+that it may be said to illustrate every style of ecclesiastical
+architecture from Norman to the present time. Opinions differ widely as
+to the merits of that scheme of renovation and innovation completed
+under the direction and by the munificence of Lord Grimthorpe, and no
+attempt will be here made to criticise or extol the work of so great an
+expert. Such a description of the venerable Abbey as an architect might
+love to write would fill a volume in this series. After careful
+consideration I have decided to sketch its history in such a way as to
+show, however imperfectly, how it came to be what it is. I have been
+careful to compare many authorities and to follow the consensus of
+testimony wherever I have found discrepancy or contradiction.
+
+It has already been stated that, according to Gildas, Bede and other
+authorities, a church was erected on Holmhurst Hill after the martyrdom
+of St. Alban. Concerning that church we know little more than that it
+was almost destroyed by the Saxons. In 793, or very near that date, Offa
+II., who had murdered the East Anglian King, Ethelbert, resolved to
+found a monastery, encouraged, as we learn from William of Malmesbury,
+by Charlemagne. The monastery was duly founded, for an abbot and 100
+Benedictine monks, and the little church, renovated, became the original
+abbey of the foundation. Having discovered the bones of St. Alban and
+placed them in a costly reliquary, Offa conveyed them to this church,
+intending to erect a nobler edifice for their reception; but it is
+doubtful whether the design was carried out during his lifetime. Indeed,
+we know little as to that enlarging and adornment of the church which
+must surely have been effected in the days of the early abbots, and the
+first hints of the erection of the great abbey occur in the lives of
+Ealdred and Eadmer, eighth and ninth abbots, who collected immense
+quantities of red, tile-like Roman bricks from the ruins of Verulam;
+Matthew Paris tells us that Eadmer made some progress in the actual
+rebuilding of the church. The twelfth abbot, Leofstan (d. 1066),
+enriched the building with "certain ornaments"; but it was the
+fourteenth abbot, Paul de Caen (1077-97), who, using the vast stores of
+material collected by his predecessors, entirely rebuilt the church on a
+scale almost commensurate with its present size.
+
+The rebuilding of the Abbey Church by Abbot Paul de Caen occupied eleven
+years. When completed, it was certainly one of the noblest and largest
+structures in the kingdom. The length of this cruciform Norman church
+was 426 feet. (The extreme length is now 550, due to additions presently
+mentioned.) On the E. side of either transept were two apsidal chapels,
+the one adjoining the presbytery aisle being in each case the larger of
+the two; there was also an apse at the E. end of the presbytery. A
+square, battlemented tower flanked the W. front on either side; but the
+chief glory of Abbot Paul's church was undoubtedly the enormous Norman
+tower of four stages, triforium, clerestory, ringing-floor and belfry,
+surmounted by parapets and flanked by angle turrets, of which such
+considerable portions yet remain. Visitors who saw the Abbey thirty
+years ago saw the E. portion of the nave, the transepts and the tower
+substantially as built by Abbot Paul de Caen. The new Abbey was
+dedicated 1115.
+
+Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth abbot (1119-46), placed the relics of St.
+Alban in a new shrine.
+
+Robert de Gorham, eighteenth abbot (1161-67), erected the _Chapter
+House_ and _Locutory_ (Abbot's Cloister); his successor, Symeon
+(1167-83), completed the erection and embellishment of the _Shrine of
+St. Alban_, raising its height so that it could be seen from the _High
+Altar_. During his abbacy the relics of St. Amphibalus were brought to
+St. Albans, and the shrine of that saint was eventually erected in the
+E. aisle. The _Chapel of St. Cuthbert_ in the _Baptistery_, built by
+Abbot Richard de Albini (1097-1119), was also dedicated about this time.
+
+Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot (1183-95), placed the relics of St.
+Amphibalus in a feretry, enriching it with gold and silver
+ornamentation. He placed it behind the High Altar, near the feretry of
+St. Alban.
+
+John de Cella, twenty-first abbot (1195-1214), commenced to rebuild the
+W. front, notably the three fine E.E. porches now replaced by those of
+Lord Grimthorpe, but the work was completed by his successor William de
+Trumpyntone (1214-35), who added the two flanking towers. This abbot
+erected the rood screen between the nave and choir, added the octagon
+above the tower after removing the Norman turrets and parapets, and
+probably built those E.E. bays on each side of the nave which are
+nearest to the W. front. He also restored portions of the S. transept
+and S. aisle, and rebuilt _St. Cuthbert's Chapel_ on the spot now partly
+occupied by the _Rood Screen_.
+
+The E. end of the Abbey next received the attention of these
+architect-abbots. Commencing at the second bay E. from the tower, John
+de Hertford (1235-60) almost entirely replaced the Norman and E.E. work
+of his predecessors by work which merged into a graceful E. Dec. The
+work was carried on by his immediate successors, doubtless sadly
+hindered by the turbulent state of the times. John de Norton (1260-90)
+built the S. aisle of the _Retro-choir_, and part of the _Lady-chapel_,
+but his work was supplemented by that of John de Berkhampstead
+(1291-1302). John de Marinis (1302-8) removed the feretry and tomb of
+St. Alban to the position which it occupied until about the time of the
+Dissolution and spent 820 marks in the erection of a tomb of Purbeck
+marble. Hugh de Eversden (1308-26) built the five moulded Dec. bays of
+the S. aisle, replacing the Norman work, which had given way, and
+completed the _Lady-chapel_ at the extreme E., thereby greatly
+increasing the length of the entire building. There was subsequently,
+however, for a long period, a passage between the _Retro-choir_ and the
+_Lady-chapel_.
+
+Abbot Michael de Mentmore (1335-49) completed the restoration of the S.
+aisle and repaired the _Cloister_. His successor, Thomas de la Mere,
+paved the W. floor, and no doubt minor restorations were almost
+continually in progress during the latter half of the fourteenth
+century; but a new chapter in the story of the Abbey commenced when John
+de Wheathampsted became abbot (1420-40 and 1451-64). This celebrated
+man, during the two periods of his abbacy, hardly rested in his efforts
+to beautify the Abbey. It is stated in a Cottonian MS. that this abbot
+constructed a little chapel near the shrine of St. Alban; this was
+perhaps the _Watching Loft_ (N. of _Saint's Chapel_) in which the keeper
+of the holy shrine and relics (Custos Feretri) spent much of his time.
+John de Wheathampsted also built the tomb of Humphrey, Duke of
+Gloucester (d. 1447), on the side of the chapel opposite the _Watching
+Loft_ (a few steps lead down to the coffin); prepared his own tomb W.
+from that of the duke; built the great Perp. window over the W. porches,
+now replaced by one Dec. in design, and the nine N. windows of _Nave_
+and _Ante-Choir_; and was probably responsible for the paintings
+discovered on the choir ceiling, and for many of the embellishments of
+the _Lady-chapel_. Perhaps, however, his fame chiefly rests on the _High
+Altar Screen_, which he designed, but which was erected by the
+thirty-sixth abbot, William Wallingford (1476-84).
+
+There were apparently few important features added to the Abbey, and but
+little restoration effected during the rule of the last four abbots
+(1492-1539). A few brief paragraphs concerning its modern restorations
+and present appearance must now be added.
+
+Those modern restorations date largely from the middle of last century.
+Its condition, internally and externally, was at that time certainly
+discreditable to everybody concerned in its welfare. In 1856 a National
+Committee placed the matter in the hands of Sir Gilbert Scott, under
+whose direction the building was in part restored; but public funds
+presently failed and in 1879 the direction of the workers was undertaken
+by one who had at once the inclination and the funds necessary to its
+completion--Lord Grimthorpe.
+
+The _Abbey_, from the W. porches to the E. end of the _Lady-chapel_ and
+the _Chapel of Transfiguration_, measures inside 520 feet, outside 550
+feet; the entire _transept_ length from N. to S., on the floor, 177
+feet; the _nave_, the longest Gothic one in the world, 292 feet × 75
+feet 4 inches; the _Lady-chapel_, 57 feet × 24 feet; the great _Screens_
+are rather less than 170 feet apart; the height of the _tower_ is 144
+feet. Visitors will find some slight discrepancies as to measurements in
+the several guides which have been compiled; but the foregoing figures
+will assist them to realise the vast dimensions of the building. Its
+area is approximately 40,000 square feet. Of special interest are:--
+
+(1) _The Tower_, which is seen to greater advantage since Sir Gilbert
+Scott removed the exterior plaster, thus exposing the wonderfully
+preserved Roman tiles with which it was faced by Abbot Paul de Caen. The
+four enormous piers upon which it rests were weakened by the ignorance
+of early restorers, who cut into them freely, and dug graves in such
+manner as to imperil their foundations. The most arduous work of Sir
+Gilbert Scott was the strengthening of these piers, effected piecemeal
+by partial reconstruction of the piers themselves and by laying a
+durable substratum of cement right down to the chalk. The fine ring of
+eight bells was rehung. Visitors will find the ascent of the spiral
+staircase long and arduous, but will be rewarded by the almost
+unrivalled view from between the merlons on its summit.
+
+[Illustration: The Shrine of St Alban]
+
+(2) _St. Alban's Shrine_ (in the Saint's Chapel between the Altar Screen
+and the Lady-chapel), already referred to (p. 188), disappeared about
+the time of the suppression of the monastery (1539), and all traces of
+it were lost except the fragment of Purbeck marble marking its former
+site on the chapel floor. Yet that shrine, its genuineness unquestioned,
+stands to-day on the site which it occupied centuries ago! Hundreds of
+fragments of Purbeck marble were discovered when the central arches of
+the Lady-chapel were opened by Dr. Nicholson previous to the
+restorations of Sir Gilbert Scott. Subsequently, other fragments were
+discovered and the whole collection, the importance of which was
+suspected, was pieced together with indefatigable ingenuity by the late
+John Chapple. The _feretry_ itself, mentioned by Matthew Paris, which
+was supposed to contain the relic of the martyr, has not, and probably
+never will be, discovered. The vaulted niches are of clunch, but the
+rest of the shrine is of Purbeck marble. Note the beautiful tracery of
+these groined niches, the cusps of the arches and crocketted
+pediments, and the carvings in the tympana, representing scenes from
+the martyrdom of SS. Alban and Amphibalus.
+
+(3) _Shrine of St. Amphibalus_ (in N. aisle of presbytery). This was
+discovered in fragments and pieced together in the same manner as that
+of St. Alban. The whole, however, is of clunch, and, unfortunately,
+incomplete. Note the fret-like sculpture round the basement, and the
+name of the saint (imperfect) in carved capitals.
+
+(4) _High Altar Screen_, or screen of Abbot Wallingford (restored at the
+expense of Lord Aldenham); is in point of size, as in beauty, perhaps
+unique in England. Note its resemblance to that at Winchester. It was
+much dilapidated, its many statues having been entirely destroyed at the
+time of the Reformation; but its restoration has been admirably
+executed, the figures of SS. Alban and Amphibalus being especially
+noticeable: the latter wears a _Celtic_, not a Roman tonsure. Note also
+the figures of our Lord and His apostles in alabaster, and those of
+Adrian IV., Bede, Hugh of Lincoln, St. Edmund and many others.
+
+(5) Chantry Tombs of _Abbot Ramryge_ and _Abbot John Wheathampsted_,
+occupying respectively the last arches of N. and S. side of the
+Sanctuary. Note the fine late Perp. work of the former, and the
+Wheathampsted arms, three wheat-ears, on the latter.
+
+(6) _The Lady-chapel_ (enter through Retro-choir). This formerly
+contained much of the finest work in the Abbey and traces of it are
+still retained, despite its repeated and entire restoration. The present
+vaulted roof of real stone replaces that of imitation stone built by
+Abbot Hugh de Eversden. In post-Reformation days it was long used as the
+Grammar School; but since the removal of the school to the Old Gate
+House (1869) the chapel has gradually been brought into its present
+state. Many of its most beautiful features--tracery, mouldings,
+statuettes, carvings, etc.--had, however, been completely destroyed by
+the boys. The marble pavement is new; the stained glass in the E. window
+was presented by the Corporation of London. Note the wonderful variety
+of carved flowers and fruits with which this chapel is embellished.
+
+From Grose's _Antiquities_ (vol. viii.) I quote the following:--
+
+"Mr. Robert Shrimpton, grandfather, by the mother's side, to Mrs.
+Shrimpton of St. Albans, was four times mayor of that town; he died
+about sixty years since, being then about 103 years of age. He lived
+when the Abbey of St. Alban flourished before the Dissolution and
+remembered most things relating to the buildings of the Abbey, the
+regimen of the house, the ceremonies of the church ... all of which he
+would often discourse in his life-time. Among other things, that in the
+Great Hall there was an ascent of fifteen steps to the abbot's table, to
+which the monks brought up the service in plate, and staying at every
+fifth step, which was a resting-place, at every of which they sung a
+short hymn. The abbot usually sat alone in the middle of the table; and
+when any nobleman or ambassador or stranger of eminent quality came
+thither they sat at his table towards the end thereof. When the monks
+had waited a while on the abbot, they sat down at two other tables,
+placed on the sides of the hall and had their service brought in by
+novices, who, when the monks had dined, sat down to their own dinner."
+
+_First Battle of St. Albans._--On _May 23rd_, 1455, the forces of King
+Henry VI. assembled in the neighbourhood of St. Peter's Street, and were
+attacked by those of the Duke of York and Warwick the Kingmaker.
+Advancing from the fields E. of the town, Warwick's men appear to have
+approached from Key Fields and Sopwell Lane, and, finally, having fought
+their way into Holywell Hill, to have united with those of the Duke of
+York, who had forced the town barriers farther N. The battle was
+desperately contested; the bowmen, as usual in those times, playing a
+conspicuous part; Henry VI. was wounded in the neck, Humphrey Earl of
+Stafford in the right hand, Lord Sudley and the Duke of Buckingham in
+the face--all with arrows. The wounded king took refuge in the cottage
+of a tanner; here he was made prisoner and conducted by the Duke of York
+to the Abbey. The town was at the mercy of the Yorkist soldiers during
+the latter part of the day; many houses were looted and the Abbey was
+probably spared only because the royal prisoner had been conducted
+thither. Several illustrious persons slain in this battle were buried in
+the Lady-chapel: (1) Henry Percy, second Earl of Northumberland; (2)
+Edmund Beaufort, first Duke of Somerset; (3) John, Lord Clifford. Sir
+Robert Vere, Sir William Chamberlain, Sir Richard Fortescue, Kts., and
+many squires and other gentlemen also perished.
+
+_Second Battle of St. Albans._--On Shrove Tuesday, 17th February, 1461,
+Queen Margaret defeated the Earl of Warwick, who retreated with
+considerable loss, the battle being mostly fought out on Bernard's
+Heath, N. from St. Peter's Church. This engagement also was stubbornly
+fought out. According to Stow and Hollinshead, the Lancastrians were
+thwarted in their efforts to pass through the town from S. to N., being
+repulsed by arrows in the Market Place, and eventually reached Bernard's
+Heath by a circuitous route from the W. If this is so, visitors who
+ramble down the High Street, turn right into Katherine Lane, coming out
+of Wellclose Street near St. Peter's Church, will probably tread in the
+footsteps of the troops of Margaret. After the fight had been decided
+the victorious Lancastrians poured back into the town, which was again
+plundered, and the Abbey also partially stripped. This was during the
+second abbacy of John Wheathampsted, and Stow records that the day after
+the battle Queen Margaret, and the King (Henry VI.) were led by the
+abbot and monks to the High Altar of the Abbey, where they returned
+thanks for the victory.
+
+ST. MARGARET'S, on the river Lea, has a small church with several
+unimportant memorials. It was probably formed from one aisle of an older
+edifice.
+
+_St. Margaret's_ is also the name of a few cottages a little N.W. from
+Great Gaddesden, near the site of the Benedictine convent of _Muresley_,
+the refectory of which was almost intact early last century.
+
+ST. PAUL'S WALDEN (4 miles S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a
+large and scattered parish; much of it is very picturesque. The church,
+which was restored twenty years ago, is of several styles, but contains
+little worthy of comment. Note the tablet on the W. wall of the chapel
+to Henry Stapleford and Dorothy his wife. "The said Henry was servant to
+Queen Elizabeth, King James and King Charles" (d. 1631). The manor was
+formerly called first _Waldene_, then Abbot's Walden, being the property
+of the abbots of St. Albans. _St. Paul's Walden Bury_, ½ mile S.W. from
+the church, is the seat of Lord Strathmore. Note the fine avenues in the
+park, commanding good views of the house. The walk S. to Whitwell,
+through the steep and twisted lane and across the bridge over the Maran,
+keeping the "bog" and cress beds on the right, is very pretty.
+
+SANDON (3½ miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R) has a flint church,
+probably late fourteenth century. Several features should be noted: (1)
+Perp. screen (oak) between nave and chancel; (2) old stained glass in
+windows of both aisles; (3) fine Jacobean oak pulpit; (4) old brass,
+with inscription which was imperfect 200 years back, to "Johannes Fitz
+Geoffery, Armiger" (d. 1480); (5) piscina in each aisle; (6) pinnacled
+and crocketted arches in chancel, over triple sedilia. The church was
+partially restored in 1875. The manor of _Sandone_ was owned by Saxon
+kings; Athelstan gave ten houses in the _vill_ to St. Paul's, London.
+The Old North Road to Royston is 2 miles E.
+
+SANDRIDGE (2½ miles N.E. from St. Albans) is on the road to
+Wheathampstead, and is a thoroughly typical English village consisting,
+for the most part, of one street, with the parish church near its N.E.
+end. The parish stretches northwards to the Lea, and is very ancient;
+the _vill_ was given by Egfrith, a son of Offa, to St. Alban's Abbey. It
+owes its name to the nature of its soil. The church, one of the most
+ancient in the county, has known much restoration, but still retains
+Norman work. It was consecrated as a chapel a few years after the
+consecration of St. Alban's Abbey (1115); the chancel was rebuilt by
+Abbot John Moote (_circa_ 1400). The tower fell towards the end of the
+seventeenth century and the structure which took its place was pulled
+down and reconstructed in 1887. Note the old material in the apex, the
+Perp. windows in the aisles, the clerestoried Norman nave and the Norman
+font. There are N. and S. porches.
+
+Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, derived his first title, Baron
+Sandridge, from this parish; the Jennings family, from which his wife
+Sarah was descended, possessed the manor for several generations.
+_Sandridge Bury_, N.W. from the village, is beautifully situated.
+
+SARRATT (1½ mile N. from Chorley Wood Station, Met. Extension) is near
+the river Chess, on the Bucks border. The church is late Norman and is
+remarkable for the saddle-back roof of its tower, running N. and S., the
+only tower roof of its kind in Herts. The building is cruciform, of
+flint, dressed with Totternhoe and Caen stone, and has a square ambry, a
+very old piscina, and a double sedilia; the latter is E.E. Richard
+Baxter is said to have preached from the Jacobean pulpit. There are a
+few old memorials. The church is prettily situated, and a picturesque
+walk may be taken N.W. to Sarratt Bottom, thence N.E. to
+
+SARRATT GREEN, which during the last two or three centuries has
+gradually outgrown Sarratt. Note the many fine old cottages on either
+side of the village green. Sarratt owes its name to Syret, a Saxon.
+
+SAWBRIDGEWORTH (formerly Sabysford, Sabridgeworth, Saybrichesworth and
+now often called Sapsworth) lies at the S.E. extremity of the county, 4
+miles S. from Bishop's Stortford. The district is not very diversified,
+but is open and pleasant. The history of the several old manor houses
+in the neighbourhood would fill a large volume; those of _Hyde Hall_
+(E.) and _Pishiobury_ (S.) are engraved in Chauncy; the present mansion
+in Pishiobury[n] Park was built by Wyatt, and has a fine adjoining
+rosery. The church stands between the town and the station (G.E.R.); it
+has a good Perp. screen between the clerestoried Dec. nave and the
+chancel, and a large canopied piscina in the N. aisle. The brasses are
+numerous: note (1) to Sir John Leventhorpe (d. 1433) and Katherine his
+wife (d. 1431); the former was an executor to King Henry V.; (2) to
+several other members of the Leventhorpe family, too numerous to
+mention; (3) to Calpredus Jocelin (d. 147-), and his wives Katherine and
+Joan; (4) inscription on brass, which was long ago transcribed as
+follows:--
+
+    "Of your Charite
+    Sey a Pater Nostre and an Ave
+    For the Sowl of William Chaunce
+    On whose Sowl Jesu have Mercy".
+
+Several monuments and brasses are to the memory of persons buried
+elsewhere. Note the marble altar-tomb in chancel to John Jocelin or
+Jocelyn (d. 1525) and Philippa his wife.
+
+_Shafton End_ and _Shafton-Hoe_ lie a little E. from the Cambridge Road,
+on the Essex border, about 4 miles S.E. from Royston.
+
+_Shaw Green_ is 4 miles S.E. from Baldock, near _Julians Park_.
+
+SHEEPHALL (2 miles N.N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a little
+E. from the Great North Road. It is a small village. The church, E.E.,
+is approached through a good lich-gate, and contains many memorials,
+including two sixteenth-century brasses to members of the Nodes family,
+one of which was Sergeant of the Buckhounds to Henry VIII., Edward VI.,
+Mary and Elizabeth (d. 1564).
+
+SHENLEY (2 miles E. from Radlett Station, M.R.) is of interest to many
+for its fine old "lock-up," or cage, in the centre of the village. We
+are on high ground here, and the tower of St. Alban's Abbey is well seen
+above the trees to the N.W. The village is scattered along several
+converging roads, and the surrounding country is undulating and
+beautifully wooded. Turn down the lane opposite the Black Lion to reach
+the old church of St. Botolph, 1 mile N.N.W. from the cage. Note the
+venerable yews, and the quaint old grave-boards in the graveyard; also
+the altar-tomb to Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of Wren, and the architect
+of St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard Street (d. at Shenley, 1736). The church
+was partly rebuilt in the middle of the eighteenth century, when the
+tower was demolished and a structure of timber, with quadrangular tiled
+roof, eventually erected in its stead. This has disappeared, and the
+"old parish church" is now an oblong building of flints, chalk-faced,
+with tiled roof. _Porters_, in the park, a little W., was the residence
+of Admiral Lord Howe. _Salisbury Hall_, a gabled manor house with
+massive chimneys, surrounded by a moat, is Jacobean, and stands on the
+spot occupied successively by the older houses of the Montacutes, and of
+Sir John Cutts, Treasurer and Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. Eugene
+Aram visited the neighbourhood.
+
+_Sleap's Hyde_ (½ mile S.E. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+in the parish of Colney Heath.
+
+_Smug Oak_, a few cottages, lies on the E. confines of Bricket Wood, ½
+mile N.E. from that station, L.&N.W.R.
+
+_Smyth's End_ adjoins Barley on the S. (_q.v._).
+
+_Solesbridge Lane_, on the river Chess, is close to Chorley Wood.
+
+_Southend_ and _Southend Green_ are hamlets, (1) adjoining Stevenage on
+the S., (2) ½ mile E. from Rushden.
+
+_Spellbrook_ is a hamlet nearly midway between Sawbridgeworth and
+Bishop's Stortford.
+
+_Stanborough_, on the Hatfield-Welwyn road, is midway between Hatfield
+and Brocket Hall Parks. The road which branches N.W. from the hamlet
+leads to the modern church at Lemsford (_q.v._).
+
+STANDON has several claims to notice. It is a large village, 1 mile E.
+from the Old North Road. A little W., and on the other side of the
+railway, is the mansion which occupies the site of _Standon Lordship_, a
+fine old manor house, of which hardly a vestige remains. It was long
+owned by the Sadleir family, most illustrious of whom was Sir Ralph
+Sadleir (d. 1587), who fought at Pinkie. (See below.)
+
+The church, largely Dec., still retains some Saxon foundations, and has
+singular features worthy of comment. The embattled tower is separate
+from the main structure, standing on the _S. side of the chancel_; the
+chancel is raised much higher than the nave, from which it is approached
+by a flight of steps; note the hagioscope on either side of the chancel
+arch. Within the chancel, on the S. side, stands the fine monument to
+Sir Ralph Sadleir, consisting of altar-tomb and marble effigy in armour,
+recumbent beneath a canopy supported by Corinthian pillars; note the
+relieved figures of his sons and daughters on the lower part of the
+tomb, also, suspended above, two helmets and other relics. The standard
+pole captured at Pinkie rests beside the effigy. There are also several
+old brasses. Close to the village, at Old Hall Green, are the Roman
+Catholic College, Chapel and Cemetery; the college was founded at
+Twyford, Hants, late in the seventeenth century, from whence it was
+removed, first to Standon Lordship, and then (1769) to Old Hall. The
+library is large and valuable.
+
+STANSTEAD ABBOTS may be easily reached from St. Margaret's Station,
+G.E.R., ½ mile W. It was a place of considerable trade at the time of
+the Conquest. The old flint church is E.E., with a chapel on the N.
+side, built by Edward Baesh--whose monument it contains--in 1577. He
+was lord of the manor of Stanstead Abbots and "General Surveyor of the
+Victuals for the Navy Royal and Marine affairs within the Realms of
+England and Ireland" (d. 1587). He married Jane, a daughter of Sir Ralph
+Sadleir. (See Standon.) The six Baesh Almshouses were built and endowed
+by his son, Sir Edward Baesh. Several brasses, some mutilated, are in
+the church, notably one near the altar-rails to William Saraye or
+Saxaye, late of "Grais In" (d. 1581). _Stansteadbury_, a huge gabled
+mansion, largely rebuilt, stands in extensive grounds, and was the home
+of the Baeshs and of their successors, the Feildes.
+
+_Stapleford_, a village on the river Beane, is 3 miles N.N.W. from
+Hertford. The church is Perp. with N. porch; it was enlarged nearly
+fifty years ago, when the present tower was added.
+
+STEVENAGE, a town on the Great North Road, has shifted from its original
+position. It once stood farther N.E. and close to the church; but after
+a terrible fire which destroyed a large proportion of its houses the
+village was gradually rebuilt more directly on the famous old coaching
+road. The first paper mill in England is said to have been built in this
+parish. Several of its inns were standing when the regular coaches were
+on the road.
+
+[Illustration: STEVENAGE CHURCH]
+
+The old Church of St. Nicholas, ¾ mile N.E., is reached through an
+avenue of limes and chestnuts, headed by a new lich-gate. It is largely
+E.E. Note the octagonal pillars and pointed arches of the nave and the
+two small chapels attached to the chancel. The font at the W. end is
+under an Early Norman arch. There are several modern windows of stained
+glass, and a good brass, early sixteenth century, in the chancel. The
+church at the S. end of the town was designed by Sir A. W. Blomfield
+about sixty years back, but has since been much enlarged. Half a mile
+farther S. on the main road are six almost equidistant mounds, thought
+to be of Danish origin.
+
+At the old Castle Inn, E. side of High Street, great numbers of persons
+have been shown on the rafters in a barn the coffin of Henry Trigg,
+whose will was proved in 1724; one of its provisions was that his body
+should not be buried, but disposed of in that way. Little more than a
+mile N.W. from the station, at Redcoats Green, stood, until 1893,
+"Elmwood House," the home of the Hermit of Hertfordshire. This man,
+James Lucas, was descended from a good family, but for reasons never
+satisfactorily explained he lived alone, and in a most filthy condition,
+from October, 1849, to April, 1874. A concise and reliable account of
+this peculiar man is issued by Messrs. Paternoster and Hales of Hitchin.
+
+STOCKING PELHAM, on the Essex border (5½ miles N.E. from Braughing
+Station, G.E.R.), has an E.E. church dating from early fourteenth
+century; it has no tower. The chancel was restored in 1864. The manor is
+very ancient, and was held by Simon de Furneaux in the reign of Edward
+I., but the village now shows little of interest.
+
+_Swangles_ (2¼ miles N.E. from Ware) is a small hamlet a little S. from
+the river Rib.
+
+_Symonds Green_ (¾ mile S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+between the Great North Road and the ruins of Minsden Chapel.
+
+_Symonds Hyde_ Farm and Wood are in a pleasant district, very
+diversified, a little S.W. from Brocket Hall Park. Smallford and
+Hatfield Station (G.N.R.) are from 2 to 3 miles S. and S.W.
+respectively.
+
+_Tea Green_, a hamlet near the Beds border, lies between Breachwood
+Green and Putteridge Bury.
+
+_Tednambury_ and _Tednam Mill_ are on the river Stort and right on the
+Essex border. Sawbridgeworth Station (G.E.R.) is 1 mile S.
+
+TEWIN (about 2 miles S.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) is most
+charmingly situated on high ground above the river Maran. The village is
+divided into the Upper and Lower Green; the church, ¼ mile from the
+latter, stands on a hill that slopes steeply to the river. Note the
+altar-tomb in churchyard to Lady Anne Grimston (d. 1710). The tomb is
+forced asunder by ash and sycamore trees growing together, a
+circumstance popularly attributed to the sceptical opinions of Lady
+Anne, who is said to have denied the doctrine of immortality, and to
+have expressed the wish that such a phenomenon should happen if the
+doctrine were indeed true. The church, which looks very old, is of
+flint, brick and rubble, with a large diamond-faced clock on one side of
+the tower. In the S. porch (entrance blocked up) is the marble monument
+to Sir Joseph Sabine (d. 1739); who fought under Marlborough. Note the
+pyramid, 15 feet high, and the recumbent effigy, dressed as a Roman
+soldier. There is also in the S. aisle a good brass to one Thomas Pygott
+(d. 1610), and a slab with an imperfect Lombardic inscription to Walter
+de Louthe. _Tewin Water_, in the park, N.W., is prettily surrounded by
+trees. Beautiful walks may be taken in almost any direction, especially
+in the trend of the river Maran towards Digswell and Welwyn.
+
+_Tharbes End_ is 1½ mile N.W. from Sawbridgeworth.
+
+THEOBALD'S PARK. (See Waltham Cross.)
+
+THERFIELD (3 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) was, according to
+Dugdale's _Monasticon Anglicanum_, given to the church of Ramsey by
+Etheric, Bishop of Sherbourne, about 980, and Chauncy "guesses" that an
+abbot of Ramsey built Therfield church. The present church is a modern
+Dec. structure, a little W. from the centre of the scattered village.
+The _Icknield Way_ skirts the parish on the N. and many Roman relics
+have been discovered in the neighbourhood. There are also several tumuli
+in the parish, which lies on high, chalky soil.
+
+THORLEY (2 miles S.W. from Bishop's Stortford) can show a good Norman
+doorway on the S. side of the little church; note the dog-tooth moulding
+and twisted nook-shafts. The remainder of the building is largely E.E.;
+there is a piscina in the chancel and--at the W. entrance--a niche for a
+holy water basin. The font, as at Bishop's Stortford, was a modern
+discovery. Thorley Wash and Thorley Street are between the church and
+the G.E.R.
+
+THROCKING (2 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) stands on a
+hill. The church is E.E. and Dec., except the upper part of the tower,
+of brick, added in 1660. The monuments include one by Nollekens and one
+by Rysbrack, to members of the Elwes family, of whose manor house there
+are still some traces adjacent to the _Hall Farm_. The walk N.W. to
+Baldock, by way of Julians Park (7 to 8 miles), leads across open,
+breezy country.
+
+THUNDRIDGE and WADE'S MILL are on the Old North Road, about 2 miles N.
+from Ware. The river Rib crosses the road at Wade's Mill. The present
+parish church, E.E. in style, was built about seventy years ago, close
+to the bridge over the Rib; the tower of the old church; "Little St.
+Mary's," with a Norman arch stands in the lower meadows ½ mile E. On the
+W. side of the Old North Road, close to Wade's Mill, a low obelisk marks
+the spot where Thomas Clarkson resolved to give his life to the cause of
+the abolition of slavery.
+
+_Titmore Green_ is 1½ mile N.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Tittenhanger._ (See London Colney.)
+
+_Todd's Green_ adjoins Titmore Green.
+
+_Tonwell_, on the main road from Ware or Stevenage, is a hamlet near
+the river Rib. It has a modern chapel-of-ease. Ware is 2½ miles S.E.
+
+TOTTERIDGE, on the Middlesex border, is 1 mile W. from the Station
+(G.N.R.). Richard Baxter lived here for a short time. The neighbourhood
+is well wooded and very pleasing to the eye. The church, on the
+hill-top, dates only from 1790; but the site was occupied by an earlier
+structure. The memorials are of no historic interest; but near the
+enormous yew tree in the churchyard stands the tomb of the first Lord
+Cottenham (d. 1851). Near by, too, lies Sir Lucas Pepys, physician to
+George III. (d. 1830). _Totteridge Park_, W. from the village, was the
+residence of Baron Bunsen, and of the above-mentioned Lord Cottenham;
+the large, plain structure in which they lived, recently in part
+rebuilt, was erected about a century ago, taking the place of the fine
+old manor house, for some generations the home of the Lee family. At
+_Copped Hall_, near the church, the late Cardinal Manning was born in
+1808.
+
+TRING is the most westerly place of any importance in Herts. The station
+(L.&N.W.R.) is nearly 2 miles E. from the town, which is sheltered on
+the N.W. by the chalk hills, a fresh spur of which crops out 3 mile N.E.
+at Aldbury (_q.v._). The church (Perp.) stands near the centre of the
+town and is fortunate in having been restored under the direction of Mr.
+Bodley in 1882. It is an embattled, flint structure; the tower has a
+corner turret and is, like that at Hitchin, unusually massive. Note (1)
+the clustered columns of the nave, (2) the quaint corbels, (3) the
+large, imposing monument to Sir William Gore and his wife (d. 1707 and
+1705 respectively); Sir William was Lord Mayor of London; (4) good Perp.
+windows in each aisle.
+
+Tring was formerly a considerable centre of the straw-plait industry,
+which is still pursued to a less extent. The place is of great
+antiquity, _Treung_ hundred dating from the days of Alfred the Great.
+William I. gave it to Robert Earl of Ewe, and Stephen kindly bestowed it
+upon the monks of Faversham, "in perpetual Alms for the Health of the
+Souls of Maud his Queen and all faithful People". Edward II. granted to
+Tring market rights.
+
+_Tring Park_ (property of Hon. N. C. Rothschild) is surrounded by
+perhaps the most exquisite woods--largely of beech--in the whole county.
+Much altered in modern times, it is said to have been designed by Wren,
+and to have been visited by Charles II. The park is well kept, and
+contains many living curiosities placed here by Lord Rothschild, a lover
+of natural history. The _Museum_, at the top of Akeman Street,
+containing a fine zoological collection, is the outcome of his
+lordship's energy and benevolence. The _Museum House_, to which it is
+attached, is a prettily designed structure of red brick, with gables.
+
+_Tring, Little_, is a hamlet 1¼ mile N.W. from the town, and Tring
+Grove, a hamlet 1¼ mile N.E. The former is near the large reservoirs,
+upon which several of the rare birds mentioned in the Introduction
+(Section IV.) were observed.
+
+_Trowley Bottom_ (3 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet
+a little S. from Flamstead, in one of the most thoroughly rural
+districts in the county. The Roman _Watling Street_ (St.
+Albans-Dunstable road) is 1 mile N.E.
+
+_Turnford_ (1¼ mile S.W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet in
+Cheshunt parish, on the New River. _Broxbourne Bury Park_ is 1 mile N.
+
+_Two Waters_ owes its name to its position at the junction of two small
+rivers--the Gade and the Bulbourne. It is in Hemel Hempstead parish, and
+about 1 mile E. from Boxmoor Station.
+
+_Tyttenhanger._ (See Tittenhanger.)
+
+_Upwick Green_ (4 miles N.W. from Bishop's Stortford) is a hamlet on the
+Essex border. _Hadham Hall_ (see Little Hadham) is 1 mile S.
+
+VERULAM. Of the old Roman _municipium_ (_Verulamium_) there now remains
+above ground little more than some large fragments of crumbling wall in
+the valley of the Ver, immediately S.W. from St. Albans. Passing under
+the old Gatehouse and crossing the bridge at the Silk Mill the visitor,
+instead of turning right and following the course of the Ver, should
+keep straight on and pass the small gate into Verulam Woods. On his
+right as he follows the broad footpath will be the outer E. wall of the
+Roman city; on his left what appears a long gorge, overgrown by bushes
+and trees of many species, was once the _fosse_. Note the great
+thickness and solidity of the walls, and the tile-like bricks, similar
+to those in the Abbey tower, mingled with flints. Presently both wall
+and fosse turn sharply W. and may be followed in that direction for a
+considerable distance. The walls may also be traced at other spots
+farther W., particularly a large mass known as Gorhambury Block,
+believed to mark the boundary of the _municipium_ in that direction.
+
+It has been mentioned in the Introduction (Section IX.) that the only
+Roman theatre known to have existed in England stood in this
+neighbourhood. Its remains were discovered rather more than seventy
+years ago in a field immediately W. from St. Michael's Church; nothing
+is now to be seen, for the excavations have been again covered. The
+discovery included that of the stage, somewhat narrow, the _auditorium_,
+with many rows of seats, and portions of the frescoed walls. Many coins
+were found among the ruins.
+
+Mention must be made of the fact that the Roman _Verulamium_ was the
+scene of the awful massacre in the time of Boadicea, when the Queen of
+the Iceni, with a great number of followers, slew alike the British and
+Roman inhabitants and partially destroyed the city (A.D. 61). An
+account of this is in the _Annals_ of Tacitus. The place was
+subsequently rebuilt and occupied by the Saxons, who called it
+_Watlingceaster_, or _Werlamceaster_.
+
+_Wade's Mill._ (See Thundridge.)
+
+_Wakely_ (2 miles W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet in
+Westmill parish, consisting of a farm and a few cottages.
+
+WALKERN (4½ miles E. from Stevenage) is a large village, with many
+picturesque nooks and cottages. The river Beane skirts it on the E.
+side. The manor is very ancient; Chauncy speaks of "Walkerne" as a town,
+and mentions a mill which stood in his day (1632-1719) at its S. end,
+presumably where Walkern Mill now stands. The church, on a knoll sloping
+to the Beane, is mostly Perp., but retains Norman work in the S. aisle;
+the chancel is modern, E.E. in style. The effigy in Purbeck marble in a
+recess of S. wall, of a knight in chain mail, is thought to represent
+one of the Lanvalei family. If so, it forms an interesting link with a
+remote past, for in the reign of King John one Alan Basset paid a
+hundred marks to that monarch, and gave him a palfrey "that his daughter
+might marry the heir of William de Lanvalley". There are also effigies
+on brass to the Humberstone family (sixteenth century). _Walkern Hall_
+(1 mile S.E.) stands in a small but pretty park; _Walkern Bury_ (1 mile
+E.) can still show some remains of a castle.
+
+WALLINGTON (3½ miles E. from Baldock) lies in one of the most quiet
+districts of the county, a district almost entirely agricultural. The
+village is small; a few cottages are ancient and picturesque, but there
+is little to notice. Take the lane opposite the Plough Inn to reach the
+church, which can show a good Perp. roof and screen, and some mutilated
+monuments and brasses in the chapel. The main structure is Dec.; but the
+chancel was rebuilt forty years ago. A walk affording views very
+characteristic of Herts may be taken from the footpath near the walled
+pond adjoining the church, by bearing S.S.E. to Red Hill, Rushden and
+Cottered.
+
+_Walsworth_, a hamlet, is almost a suburb at the N.E. end of Hitchin, ½
+mile from the station.
+
+[Illustration: WALTHAM CROSS]
+
+WALTHAM CROSS, on the London-Cambridge road, owes its name, as is well
+known, to the Cross which Edward I. erected to the memory of Queen
+Eleanor about 1¼ mile W. from Waltham Abbey. The cross stands a little
+W. from Waltham Station (G.E.R.), where the above-mentioned road meets
+that which leads E. to the Abbey. Although frequently restored it is
+perhaps even now more complete than any other Eleanor Cross still
+existing. (That erected at St. Albans, as already stated, was destroyed
+about 200 years ago.) It is, I believe, disputed as to whether it was
+designed by Pietro Cavalini or not; it was completed in 1294. It is
+hexagonal in shape, of three stages, diminishing from basement to
+summit; the details of its sculpture can be readily seized by examining
+Mr. New's drawing. The restoration of 1833 was worked in Bath stone;
+this was largely replaced by new material, in Ketton stone, only a
+few years ago, at which time the Old Falcon Inn, which projected almost
+to the cross, was pulled down, thus affording a view of the monument
+from all sides.
+
+The Four Swans, close to the cross, dates from 1260, as is testified on
+the large, quaint sign-board which swings above the road; but only a few
+portions of the present structure are of any great antiquity. There is a
+modern church a little N. from the cross; but much of the district
+commonly called Waltham is in Essex. Of great interest to visitors,
+however, and about 1 mile W. from the Cross, is _Theobald's Park_, a
+brick mansion erected about 150 years back by Sir G. W. Prescott, Bart.
+At one of the entrances to the park stands Temple Bar, brought here from
+Fleet Street and erected in its present position in 1888. The house does
+not occupy the site of the historic manor house visited by so many
+sovereigns, which stood on a slight eminence some distance to the N.W.
+It was William Cecil, afterwards Lord Burghley, who commenced to build
+that famous mansion in 1560, and enlarged it considerably when he found
+it pleasant in the eyes of many persons of high degree. Queen Elizabeth
+was frequently a visitor at Theobalds. It was Burghley's son, Robert
+Cecil, who entertained James I. here as that monarch was on his way to
+London and the English Crown, and James became so pleased with the house
+and its surroundings that he obtained it from Cecil, giving him the
+royal manor of Hatfield in its stead. It was from _Theobalds_ that
+Charles I. set out to raise his standard at Nottingham (1642). The house
+was partially destroyed during the turmoil that ensued; after the
+Restoration it was given by Charles II. to George Monk. It was
+subsequently the property of the Earl of Portland and of several other
+persons.
+
+WARE was for a long period, and is perhaps now, the centre of the malt
+trade in Herts, but brickmaking is also extensively carried on. The
+river Lea skirts the town on the S. side, and is crossed by an iron
+bridge near the Barge Inn. The High Street displays many new houses and
+shops, but by turning into the smaller by-ways visitors may find quaint
+cottages and picturesque nooks and corners. The town is very ancient,
+but contained only a few persons at the time of the Conquest.
+
+The cruciform church of St. Mary has been much restored; the body of the
+present structure is Dec.; but the tower and chancel are Perp. Note (1)
+the carved oak screen separating the S. transept from the Lady-chapel;
+(2) sedilia, piscina and ambries in the chapel itself; (3) octagonal
+font (_temp._ Henry IV.), bearing figures of saints on its panels; (4)
+mural monument in S. transept to Sir Richard Fanshawe; (5) brass to W.
+Pyrry or Pyrey (d. 1470) and his wives Agnes and Alice, the inscription
+was apparently never completed; (6) curious brass figure near pulpit.
+There is also a modern church in the New Road, E.E. in style, of Kentish
+Rag and Bath Stone.
+
+There was a Franciscan Priory a little W. from the church, which,
+although sometimes said to have been founded by Margaret, Countess of
+Leicester (_temp._ Henry III.), was probably of much earlier foundation,
+though doubtless enlarged by that lady. It fell into decay after the
+Dissolution, but some remains of the old buildings are still to be seen
+at _Ware Priory_, a mansion occupying the site. The property formed a
+separate manor, which was given to the Countess of Richmond by her son,
+Henry VII.
+
+Ware is not without literary association. The Johnny Gilpin, on the road
+to Amwell, commemorates the hero of Cowper's ballad; Pepys mentions his
+visits to the town on several occasions; Dick Turpin, as the story runs
+in Ainsworth's _Rookwood_, passed through Ware in his famous ride to
+York; Godwin, who figures so largely in the Lamb literature, was for
+some years the Independent minister of the town. By a long ascent N.
+from the town, we reach, by turning right, the hamlet of _Ware Side_,
+picturesquely scattered over a slight depression close to _Widford_
+(_q.v._). W. from the town is _Ware Park_, a mansion on a beautiful
+eminence.
+
+_Warren's Green_ (about 4 miles N.E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is
+a small hamlet.
+
+_Water End_, on the river Gade, is on the S.W. confines of Gaddesden
+Park. There are also hamlets of the same name (1) close to Ayot Station,
+G.N.R.; (2) at the E. extremity of Mimms Park, 2 miles N.W. from
+Potter's Bar Station (Middlesex).
+
+_Waterford_ and _Waterford Marsh_ are in Bengeo parish, on the river
+Beane. On the marsh is some grazing common, free to all parishioners.
+
+_Waterside_ is the name of a few cottages (1) on the river Gade, near
+King's Langley village; (2) at Mill Green, 1 mile N.E. from Hatfield.
+
+WATFORD, including its quickly rising suburbs, is much the largest town
+in Hertfordshire. The Colne crosses the high road where it dips before
+rising towards Bushey, and Chauncy says that the town derives its name
+from the Wet Ford by which the river is crossed. The building of the
+Junction Station (L.&N.W.R.), N.E. from the High Street, did much to
+facilitate the growth of Watford and extend its trade; the railroad
+diverges S.W. to Rickmansworth only, and N.E. to Bricket Wood, Park
+Street and St. Albans; the main line from London passes through a long
+tunnel before reaching King's Langley Station. The antiquities of the
+town itself are less interesting and indeed less known than those of
+other towns in the county, and Chauncy, _e.g._, finds little to say
+about it. The manor was long held by the abbots of St. Albans; then it
+became Crown property, and after several changes of ownership passed to
+William, fourth Earl of Essex, whose descendants are still lords of the
+manor.
+
+The parish church, on a small yard adjoining the S. side of the High
+Street, is Perp., and was well restored about fifty years ago; with its
+_Katherine-_ and _Essex Chapels_ it forms a large and imposing
+structure. The latter chapel was built in 1595 by Bridget, Countess of
+Bedford. Its monuments are very numerous and comprise (1) to Sir Charles
+Morison, Kt. (d. 1599), and Dorothy his wife; note the fine kneeling
+effigies; (2) to Sir Charles Morison, K.B., son of the foregoing (d.
+1628), and the Hon. Mary (Hicks) his wife, with recumbent effigies one
+above the other, and attendant figures of a daughter and two sons (note
+the Corinthian columns which support the canopy overshadowing the
+whole); both these Morison monuments were the work of Nicholas Stone,
+mentioned in Walpole's _Anecdotes_; (3) altar-tomb to the founder of the
+chapel (d. 1600); (4) altar-tomb with Tuscan columns and recumbent
+effigy to Elizabeth, wife of Sir William Russell (d. 1611). Among the
+brasses are those to (1) Henry Dickson (d. 1610); George Miller (d.
+1613) and Anthony Cooper, "servants to Sir Charles Morryson, Kt."; (2)
+imperfect, Hugo de Holes, Justice of the King's Bench (d. 1415), and
+Margaretta his wife (d. 1416); (3) Henry Baldwyn of Reedheath (d. 1601),
+Alice, his wife, and three children; (4) James Moss, a messenger to
+George II. (d. 1758).
+
+There are modern churches: (1) St. John's, in the Sutton Road, a Gothic
+edifice completed in 1893; (2) St. Andrew's, near the Junction, E.E. in
+design, with a good stained glass window in the S. aisle, and a
+beautiful Roman Catholic church by Bentley, architect of Westminster
+cathedral. In Beechen Grove is one of the finest Nonconformist (Baptist)
+chapels in the county; it dates from 1878 and is Italian in design.
+Market day is on Tuesday.
+
+CASHIOBURY PARK stretches from the N.W. end of Watford,
+reaching--together with Grove Park, which it joins--to the parting of
+the ways at Langleybury Church (4 miles N.W. from Watford Old Church).
+It is crossed from N. to S. by the river Gade. The present mansion dates
+from 1800; it was built by Wyatt for the fifth Earl of Essex. Disposed
+around an open courtyard, its many handsome apartments make a noble
+appearance; what was formerly part of the N. wing of the old mansion
+built by Sir Richard Morrison and his son Charles in the sixteenth
+century is still retained, although that house was largely rebuilt by
+the first earl, from designs furnished by Hugh May. There is a fine
+library, and three smaller ones, the collection of books being very
+valuable; but in the estimation of many the pictures are still more so.
+Among them may be named: (1) Arthur Lord Capel and his family, C.
+Janssens; this was the Capel who defended Colchester and was beheaded in
+1649; (2) Charles II., by Lely; (3) fifth Earl of Essex as a boy with
+his sister, by Reynolds, in frame carved by Grinling Gibbons; (4)
+Countess of Ranelagh, full length, by Kneller; (5) portrait by Rubens,
+probably of Charlotte de la Tremouille, afterwards Countess of Derby;
+(6) "Moll Davis" (actress), by Lely. There are many others, especially
+further portraits of the Capel family. The park and grounds are
+beautifully laid out. The park is open to the public; but the house is
+shown only by special request.
+
+WATTON or WATTON AT STONE is a large village on the Hertford-Stevenage
+road and the river Beane, 3½ miles S.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.
+Its position is very central, the roads from Ware, Hertford, Great and
+Little Munden, Walkern, Stevenage, Welwyn and Tewin all converging
+within the area of the main street. The church, at the S. end of the
+village, is Perp.; it was entirely restored in 1851. Note (1) piscina
+and triple sedilia in chancel; (2) doors formerly leading to rood loft;
+(3) curious tombstone, E.E., in the churchyard; (4) E. window of stained
+glass, dating from the Restoration; (5) memorial window in the S. aisle
+to Lady Catherine Barrington. The brasses are unusually old and
+interesting, _e.g._, (1) with canopied effigy, to Sir Philip Peletot (d.
+1361); (2) to Sir E. Bardolf (d. 1455); the effigy is that of his wife,
+his own having been long missing; (3) to John Boteler (Butler) and
+family (1514). The Boteler family, to whom there are many other
+memorials in the church, lived for many generations in the manor house
+of Woodhall, burnt in 1771. The house stood on high ground in the
+beautiful _Woodhall Park_, E. from Watton Church, on the site occupied
+by the present fine mansion (Abel Smith, Esq., J.P.). The Beane flows
+through the park and has been widened to form a large sheet of water S.
+from the house.
+
+_Welham Green_ is between Hatfield- and Mimms Parks, 2 miles S. from
+Hatfield Station.
+
+_Wellbury_ is 3 miles W. from Hitchin. _Wellbury House_ (modern) stands
+in a small park; two small places of few inhabitants, called "Old" and
+"New" Wellbury, lie on the N.E. outskirts of the Park.
+
+WELWYN, a small town in the Maran Valley, can show little of interest
+beyond many quaint cottages, and the church, famous as that in which Dr.
+Edward Young, author of _Night Thoughts_, officiated from 1730 to 1765.
+He was buried in the church; the mural memorial to him was erected by
+his son. The church is Dec., with E.E. portions; the piscina in the
+chancel is ancient, the sedilia is modern. An inventory of the church
+furniture, taken in 1541, shows that there were formerly three altars in
+it. The avenue of limes in the rectory grounds was planted by Young;
+there is a Latin inscription to the poet on a pedestal at its upper end.
+His son was visited here by Dr. Johnson and James Boswell.
+
+The walk S.E. to the station (1¼ mile) commands a fine view of the Great
+Northern viaduct of forty arches over the deeper portion of the Maran
+Valley. On the opposite (left) side of the road is _Locksleys_, a good
+mansion by the river side, surrounded by charming grounds. One mile S.
+is _The Frythe_, long the residence of the Wilshere family; at a rather
+less distance N. is _Danesbury_, a prettily designed mansion in a small
+park.
+
+"King Etheldred ... willing to relieve his people from the barbarous
+usuage and the inhuman actions of the insulting Danes ... sent
+instructions to the Governors of all cities, boroughs and towns in his
+dominions, commanding, that at a certain hour upon the feast of St.
+Brice, all the Danes should be massacred; and common fame tells us that
+this massacre began at a little town called Welwine in Hertfordshire,
+within twenty-four miles of London, in the year 1012, from which Act,
+'tis said this Vill received the name of Welwine, because the Weal of
+this county (as it was then thought) was there first won; but the Saxons
+long before called this town Welnes, from the many springs which rise in
+this Vill; for in old time Wells in their language were term'd Welnes."
+
+One of the springs in the neighbourhood, now disused, was famous in
+Young's day for its chalybeate waters.
+
+_West End_ is a hamlet 2 miles S.W. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. It
+lies close to the N.W. corner of _Bedwell Park_, with the river Lea 1
+mile N.
+
+_West Hyde_, in the extreme S.W. of the county, near the river Colne,
+has a modern cruciform church, Italian in style.
+
+WESTMILL, a church and picturesque cluster of cottages in a hollow a
+little W. from the Buntingford Road, is 1½ mile S. from that town. The
+river Rib runs between the church and the station (G.E.R.). The manor is
+ancient; it was given by William I. to Robert de Olgi. Nathanial Salmon,
+author of a _History of Hertfordshire_ published in 1728, was once
+curate here.
+
+The church very probably dates from the end of the thirteenth century,
+and is an E.E. flint structure. There are some old slabs in the chancel
+to the Bellenden family, and one on the nave floor bearing an
+inscription to one Thomas de Leukenor (?).
+
+_Westmill Green_ is a hamlet 1½ mile S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.
+
+WESTON, a large village 3 miles S.E. from Baldock, has an interesting,
+restored church, dating from about 1200. It has a N. transept, in which
+are two good Norman windows; a piscina, E.E., is in the nave. The
+massive embattled tower, which carries an octagonal, N.E. turret, was
+rebuilt in 1867. In the churchyard may be seen two small stones, about
+four yards apart, which, according to local tradition, mark the grave of
+the Weston giant. The church was once a property of the Knights
+Templars. There is what seems a second village just where a narrow
+footpath leads from the Lufen Hall Road to the church, which stands ½
+mile E. from the long main street. Many folk may still be noticed
+plaiting in the neighbourhood.
+
+_Weston Dane End_ (1½ mile S. from the above village) is a hamlet on
+the road to Walkern.
+
+_Westwick Row_ (2 miles S.E. from Hemel Hempstead) is a hamlet near
+Leverstock Green, in a charming neighbourhood.
+
+WHEATHAMPSTEAD lies in a hollow, in the valley of the Lea. Cyclists
+approaching the village from St. Albans by way of Sandridge and No Man's
+Land must beware of the steep descent from the Old Red Cow to the Swan
+Inn. The place undoubtedly owes its name to the fine wheat grown in the
+neighbourhood; it is very picturesque, particularly around the church
+and vicarage, and by the waterside towards _Brocket Hall_.
+
+The cruciform church, W. from the centre of the village, is E.E. and
+Dec. with a few Perp. features. A doorway in the _Brocket Chapel_ is
+supposed to be Saxon, but I cannot say whether the supposition is
+correct; the chapel also contains an altar-tomb with effigies of Sir
+John Brocket and his wife, Margaret, bearing date 1543, and a piscina in
+the S. wall. A brass of much interest is that to Hugh Bostock and his
+wife, Margaret (_circa_ 1450), showing their figures in robes. These
+persons were the parents of John de Wheathampsted. (See St. Albans.) An
+old marble tablet is to John Heyworth (d. 1558) and his wife Joan. Note
+also the monumental effigies in N. transept to Sir John Garrard, Bart.
+(d. 1637), and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1632). The _reredos_ is very fine.
+
+Forty years ago the village was truly rural, but the rebuilding of the
+old mill between the church and station (G.N.R. branch from Hatfield to
+Dunstable) and the erection of several modern shops in the main street
+has altered its appearance. _Wheathampstead House_, close to the
+station, is the seat of Earl Cavan; _Lamer Park_, a little N., slopes
+pleasantly towards the fine home of A. G. B. Cherry-Garrard, Esq.
+
+Mention must be made of the curious bronze vessel of the Anglo-Saxon
+period, resembling a teapot, found in the neighbourhood some years ago.
+It is figured and described in the recently published _Victoria History
+of Hertfordshire_.
+
+_Wheathampstead Cross_ (1½ mile S.E. from Harpenden Station, M.R.) is 2
+miles S.W. from the above village. It contains nothing but a few
+cottages.
+
+_Whempstead_, a hamlet in the centre of the county, is not easily
+reached, being about 5 miles E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R., and
+rather farther N.W. from Ware. The so-called _Whempstead Chapel_,
+recently demolished, was a small cottage, but it doubtless stood near
+the site of an old chapel "founded and endowed about the beginning of
+the thirteenth century by the family of Aguillon".
+
+_White Barns_, near the Essex border, is a hamlet ¾ mile N. from
+Furneaux Pelham (_q.v._).
+
+_Whitwell_ (4½ miles S.W. from Stevenage) is strictly a hamlet, but is a
+place of some size, scattered along the S. bank of the river Maran. The
+nearest parish church is at St. Paul's Walden (_q.v._), but there is a
+modern Baptist chapel near the centre of the main street, and a small
+church on the Bendish Road, formerly owned by the Countess of
+Huntingdon's Connection; it is now partially disused. The mill at the E.
+end of the village, near the old tan-yard, was burnt down many years
+ago, but has since been rebuilt.
+
+_Widbury_ is 1 mile E. from Ware.
+
+WIDFORD, so interesting in the eyes of all lovers of Charles Lamb, is a
+small village on the river Ash, with a station (G.E.R.) a few minutes W.
+from the church. Visitors, however, must remember that much in the
+neighbourhood has changed since Lamb's day. He himself recorded the
+demolition of the old house "Blakesware" or, as he wrote it,
+"Blakesmoor,"[o] which he knew so well as a child; the church spire,
+mentioned in his verses "The Grandame," was rebuilt many years back; the
+cottage at _Blenheim_ close by, immortalised in _Rosamund Gray_, was
+long ago rebuilt.
+
+The church is Dec. and Perp.; there are sedilia in the chancel, the roof
+of which was finely painted by Miss Gosselin forty years ago, and there
+is a piscina in the nave. The circular stone staircase that formerly led
+to the old rood-loft was built up during restoration. The present E.
+window is to the memory of John Eliot--the missionary to the
+Indians--born at Nazing early in the seventeenth century. There are very
+few memorials; one might almost repeat the words written of the church
+two centuries ago, "In this church are no gravestones". The manor is
+very ancient and was held in the reign of William I. by the Bishop of
+London.
+
+_Wigginton_ lies on very high ground, commanding splendid views. The
+village is about 1½ mile S.W. from Tring Station, L.&N.W.R.; the church,
+near the parting of the roads at its S.E. extremity, is a small flint
+structure, E.E. in style, with a modern N. aisle. It has no tower.
+_Champneys_, near Wigginton Common (1 mile S.), is a prettily situated
+mansion, rebuilt in 1874. It was formerly the residence of the Valpy
+family.
+
+_Wilbury Hill_, between Ickleford and Baldock, is crossed by the Roman
+Icknield Way. The _vallum_, through which the Way passes, is thought to
+mark the site of a Roman camp; Stukeley's suggestion that it was
+probably the site of a British _oppidum_ is questioned by Salmon
+(_History of Hertfordshire_, 1728). Roman coins have been found in some
+abundance in the neighbourhood, notably a silver _Faustina_.
+
+_Wild Hill_ is between Hatfield and Bedwell Parks.
+
+_Willian_, formerly Wylie (2 miles N.E. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.),
+is very ancient, mention of it as a property dating from the times of
+the Mercian kings. The village lies 1 mile W. from the Great North Road.
+The church is thought to date from the Conquest, but only an arch in the
+chancel is Norman. Note (1) the monument to "Edvardus Lacon" (d. 1625),
+and Joanna his wife (d. 1624); (2) small brass to Richard Goldon, a
+former vicar (d. 1446--? 1417). A tiny graveyard surrounds the church.
+_Roxley Court_ (½ mile S.) is the property of Colonel Mortimer Hancock.
+
+_Wilstone_, near the Aylesbury Canal, lies in a hollow 2 miles S.E. from
+Marston Gate Station, L.&N.W.R. It has a modern church, E.E. in style,
+consisting of nave only.
+
+_Windridge_, a ward of St. Stephen's parish, is 1½ mile S.W. from the
+L.&N.W.R. Station at the foot of Holywell Hill, St. Albans.
+
+_Winter Green_ is on the N.W. confines of Knebworth Park, about 1 mile
+from the church and 2 miles from the station (G.N.R.). The neighbourhood
+is on high ground.
+
+_Woodend_ (3½ miles S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) has a numerous
+population, but is, I believe, a hamlet in Ardeley parish. The modern
+Chapel of St. Alban the Martyr is built largely of small stones, and has
+a S. porch. _Walkern Park_ is ¾ mile S.W.
+
+_Woodhall_ (1½ mile N.N.E. from Hatfield) is a scattered hamlet between
+Stanborough and Hatfield Hyde. Two farms and several cottages bear the
+name. Woodhall Woods are a little farther N.
+
+_Woodhill_ (about 3½ miles S.E. from Hatfield) is prettily situated,
+with _Brookmans_, _Hatfield_ and _Bedwell_ Parks all within a short
+walk. St. Mark's Chapel-of-Ease was rebuilt in 1880, although originally
+erected only in 1852 by the then Marquess of Salisbury.
+
+_Woodside_ is the name of at least three small places, (1) in the
+neighbourhood of Hatfield, where Upper and Lower Woodside are at the
+S.E. side of the park; (2) a ward in the parish of Cheshunt; (3) in the
+parish of Leavesden.
+
+_Woollen's Brook_, on the Hoddesdon-Hertford road, has a tiny Mission
+Church. It is a small hamlet, a little S. from Haileybury College.
+
+_Woolmer Green_ lies on the Great North Road, 1 mile S.E. from Knebworth
+Station, G.N.R. The roads from Welwyn, Stevenage and Bramfield meet at
+the S. end of the street. The hamlet is considerable.
+
+WORMLEY (1 mile S.W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is on the New
+River. The church is at _Wormley Bury_, ½ mile W. from the village; it
+is very ancient, but was restored twenty years ago. Note (1) Norman
+font; (2) small Norman doorway on N. side; (3) "The Last Supper," by
+Giacomo Palma, a fine picture over the communion table; (4) rebuilt
+chancel arch; (5) Perp. windows in nave; (6) tablet on S. wall to Gough
+the antiquary (d. at Enfield, 1809). Gough completed a translation of a
+French history of the Bible in his thirteenth year, which was printed
+for private circulation; he subsequently translated Fleury's work on
+Israelitish customs and edited Camden's _Britannia_. He bequeathed many
+MSS. to Oxford University.
+
+The church contains other modern monuments, and there are brasses (1) to
+John Cleve, Rector (d. 1404); (2) to Edward Howton (d. 1479), his wife
+and family; (3) to John Cok, his wife and eleven sons; date uncertain,
+but presumably fifteenth century. Cok or Cock was the name of a very old
+family in the neighbourhood, especially at Broxbourne.
+
+WYDDIAL (1½ mile N.E. from Buntingford) was called _Widihale_ in
+_Domesday Book_, and was given by William I. to Hardwin de Scalers. The
+walk from Buntingford up the hill to the ruined church at Layston
+(_q.v._), and thence to this village, leads through some of the quietest
+spots in the county. The church is E.E., and stands on high ground a few
+yards N. from the road and about 1 mile W. from the river Quin. It was
+restored sixty years ago; but still retains two seventeenth-century
+stained-glass windows in the aisle, and two Jacobean screens. The little
+N. chapel of brick was built by one George Canon in 1632. The brasses
+include (1) to George Gyll, Lord of the Manor (d. 1546); (2) to Dame
+Margaret (Plumbe), a daughter of Sir Thomas Neville, Kt., and wife to
+Sir Robert Southwell, Master of the Rolls (d. 1575). There are many
+memorials to the Goulston family, several of whom were Lords of the
+Manor; that to Sir Richard Goulston (d. 1686) bears a long inscription
+in Latin. _Wyddial Hall_, in a small park close to the church, was the
+property of the Goulstons.
+
+WYMONDLEY, GREAT or MUCH, is nearly 2 miles S.E. from Hitchin Station,
+G.N.R. The church dates from early in the twelfth century, but has been
+much restored. The font, the chancel arch, and three windows in the
+chancel are said to be Norman; the tower is Perp. The memorials are
+unimportant.
+
+The neighbourhood is interesting. The Lords of the Manor of Wymondley
+Magna were formerly, as the newspapers have recently reminded us,
+Cup-bearers to the King at his Coronation. Near the church are some
+traces of an ancient fortification; a little S., and opposite a row of
+quaint cottages with heavily thatched roofs, stands _Delamere House_,
+once the property of Cardinal Wolsey, who is said to have been visited
+here by Henry VIII. At the _Manor Farm_, Edward VI.--according to
+tradition--once slept; the Green Man, close by, on the W. side of the
+main street, has been kept by successive generations of one family for
+300 years. Forty years ago several Roman urns were discovered in the
+neighbourhood, and the well-preserved pavement of a Roman villa was
+unearthed, subsequently, at Purwell Mill, between the village and
+Hitchin. Prehistoric implements have also been found.
+
+WYMONDLEY, LITTLE, formerly Wymondley Parva, is 1 mile S. from the
+above. The E. end of the street is crossed by the G.N.R. near the tiny
+churchyard. The church is Perp.; and was largely rebuilt in 1875; two
+earlier structures are thought to have occupied the site. It contains
+several inscriptions, and some monuments to the Needham family
+(seventeenth century). A Priory of Augustinian Canons, dedicated to St.
+Mary, was founded here by Richard Argenton, in the reign of Henry III.;
+it was suppressed at the Dissolution. When, in 1891, the _Old Priory_
+farm-house was being altered, some portions of two E.E. arches were
+disclosed, and are thought to show where the cloister of the _Priory_
+stood. There is another E.E. arch in the house.
+
+YARDLEY. (See Ardeley.)
+
+_Youngsbury._ (See High Cross.)
+
+
+
+
+INDEX OF PERSONS
+
+
+A
+
+Abbot d'Aubeny, 62, 179, 188
+  ---- Eadmer, 186
+  ---- Ealdred, 186
+  ---- Geoffrey de Gorham, 148, 179, 184, 185, 187
+  ---- Hugh de Eversden, 189, 194
+  ---- John de Berkhampstead, 189
+  ---- John de Cella, 188
+  ---- John de Hertford, 123, 189
+  ---- John de Marinis, 189
+  ---- John de la Moote, 64, 145, 198
+  ---- John  Wheathampsted, 146, 147, 167, 190, 193, 196, 225
+  ---- Leofstan, 186
+  ---- Michael de Mentmore, 189
+  ---- Paul de Caen, 187, 191
+  ---- Ralph, 119
+  ---- Ramryge, 193
+  ---- Robert de Gorham, 197
+  ---- Roger de Norton, 63, 157, 189
+  ---- Symon, 37, 188
+  ---- Thomas de la Mare, 91, 179, 189
+  ---- Ulsinus, 181, 182
+  ---- Warren de Cambridge, 179, 184, 188
+  ---- William de Trumpyntone, 188
+  ---- Wm. Wallingford, 190
+
+Adane (brass), 135
+
+Adrian IV., 41, 45, 193
+
+Aguillon family, 226
+
+Alan the Red, 85
+
+Alban, a rector (brass), 103
+  ---- St., 31, 37, 59, 177, 186, 188, 193
+
+Albyn (brass), 114
+
+Aldenham, Lord, 49
+
+Alford, Lady M., 99, 154
+
+Alfred the Great, 31, 117, 118
+
+Altham, Helen, 159
+  ---- Sir J., 159
+
+Alwin the Thane, 48
+
+Amphibalus, St., 37, 166, 177, 188, 193
+
+Anestie, Rich. de, 51
+
+Anne of Bohemia, 136
+  ---- Mortimer, 137
+
+Anorbul, Wm. (brass), 107   {Annabull in text}
+
+Anthony, W., 81
+
+Antoninus (quoted), 84, 94, 117, 177
+
+Aram, Eugene, 127, 201
+
+Arbuthnot, C. G., 94
+
+Archer, Robt., 85
+
+Argenthem, R. de, 60
+
+Argenton, Rich., 233
+
+Arnald the "Leveller," 120
+
+Ascham, Roger, 110
+
+Asser, 117
+
+Athelstan, 51
+
+Atkins, Sir E., 47
+
+Axtil, Henry, 157
+
+Aylmer, Bishop, 103
+  ---- Judith, 103
+
+
+B
+
+Babthorpe, Ralph, 182
+
+Bache, Simon (brass), 141
+
+Bacon, Francis, 40, 161, 183, 184
+
+Bacon, Sir Nich., 184
+
+Baesh family, 175, 203, 204
+
+Baker, H. W. Clinton-, 69
+  ---- W. R., 68
+
+Baldwyn family (brass), 219
+
+Barclay, E. E., 78
+
+Bardolf, Sir E. (brass), 221
+
+Barrington family, 141, 221
+
+Bartolommeo, 160
+
+Basset, Alan, 213
+  ---- Wm., 174
+
+Baugiard, Ralph, 130
+
+Baxter, Rich., 41, 135, 199, 209
+
+Beaufort, Edmund, 196
+
+Becket, Thomas, 76
+
+Bede (quoted), 117, 178, 186, 193
+
+Beel family (brass), 127
+
+Beldam, J., F.S.A., 173
+
+Bell, John (brass), 166
+
+Bellenden family, 224
+
+"Belted Will Howard," 63
+
+Benham, Canon, quoted, 50
+
+Benson, Mgr. R. H., 43
+
+Benstede, Sir J., 71
+
+Beresford family, 150
+
+Bernard de Baliol, 126, 163
+
+Bertulf, King, 71
+
+Bessemer, Sir H., 41
+
+Bickerdy, Marmaduke, 46
+
+Binning, Lord, 63
+
+Bishop, Mr., 31
+
+Blomfield, Sir A. W., 49, 55, 93, 105, 168, 205
+
+Blount family, 170, 171
+  ---- Sir H., 145
+
+Boadicea, 31, 212
+
+Bodley, Mr. G. F., 85, 209
+
+Bokeland, Nich. de, 80
+
+Boleyn, Anne, 58
+
+Bonham, Miss, 59
+
+Bonner, Bishop, 41, 179
+
+Borrell, Sir J. (brass), 80
+
+Bostock, Hugh, 147, (brass) 225
+  ---- Margaret (brass), 225
+
+Boswell, James, 40, 222
+
+Boteler family, 57, (brass) 81, 150, 221
+
+Bouchier, Sir T., 139
+
+Bowlby, A. S., 100
+
+Bradby, Canon, 106
+
+Brakespear, Nich., 41, 45, 193   {Breakspeare in text}
+
+Bramfield family (brass), 87
+
+Braybroke, Bishop, 103
+
+Bridget, Countess, 219
+
+Bridgewater family (see Egerton)
+
+Brockett family, 113, 225
+
+Browne, Dean J., 121
+
+Buckingham, Duke of, 195
+
+Bucknall family, 159
+
+Bunsen, Baron, 209
+
+Bunyan, John, 40, 88, 127, 163
+
+Burghley, Lord, 109, 110, 111, 215
+
+Burgo, Elizabeth de, 82
+
+Burgundy, Duke of, 66
+
+Burnet, Bishop, 63
+
+Butterfield, W., 64
+
+
+C
+
+Cæsar family, 71
+
+Calvert family, 121
+
+Canon, Geo., 231
+
+Capell family, 42, 104, 105, 218, 220, 221
+
+Carlo Dolce, 160
+
+Caroline, Queen, 156
+
+Carter family (brass), 138
+
+Cary family (brasses), 49, 130, 132, 169
+
+Cassivelaunus, 34    {Cassivellaunus in text}
+
+Catherine of Arragon, 148
+  ---- Braganza, 184
+
+Cavan, Earl, 42, 226
+
+Cecil, Sir Robt., 42, 109, 110, 113, 215
+  ---- Thomas, 111
+
+Chamberlain, Sir W., 196
+
+Chamber, Father (brass), 172
+
+Chantrey (sculptor), 81
+
+Chapman, Geo., 40, 127
+
+Chapple, John, 192
+
+Charlemagne, 186
+
+Charles I., 32, 46, 111, 119, 173, 197, 216
+  ---- II., 32, 105, 176, 210, 216, 220
+
+Chaucer, 39
+
+Chauncy family, 100
+  ---- Sir H, (quoted), 31, 46, 52, 54, 58, 63, 66, 74, 81, 84, 87, 91,
+       96, 100, 115, 132, 137, 150, 157, 174, 175, 182, 200, 207, 218
+
+Chester family, 61
+  ---- Robt., 173
+
+Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, 199
+
+Citroen, David, 94
+
+Clarendon, Earl of, 43, 143
+
+Clarkson (charity), 60
+  ---- Thomas, 208
+
+Cleve, Rev. John (brass), 230
+
+Clifford, Lord John, 196
+
+Clinton family, 61
+
+Clutterbuck, Robt. (quoted), 31, 180
+
+Clyfford, Eliza. (brass), 56
+  ---- Sir Robt. (brass), 56
+
+Cobb, Rev. J. W., 31
+
+Cock, Sir H., 80
+  ---- (Cok) family (brasses), 231
+
+Cogdell, T. (brass), 46
+
+Coke, Mildred, 111
+
+Conan, Duke of Brittany, 153
+
+Coningsby, Sir R., 151
+
+Cooch, 60
+
+Cooper, Anthony (brass), 219
+  ---- Sir A. Paston, 115
+  ---- Sir A. Paston Paston, 116
+
+Cottenham, Lord, 209
+
+Cotton, Dr., 40, 180, 182
+  ---- Sir J., 154
+
+Courtenay, Henry, 94
+
+Covert, Sir H. (brass), 150
+
+Cowper, Ann, 72
+  ---- family, 42, 121, 143, 161
+  ---- William, 40, 71, 72, 73, 148, 180, 182
+
+Cressye, W. and G. (brasses), 107
+
+Cromwell, Oliver, 32, 120
+  ---- Richard, 86
+
+Crossman, Mr. Alan F., 21
+
+Crouchback, Edmund, 53
+
+Crowch family, 142
+
+Cudworth, 41
+
+Curll, William, 113
+
+Cussans, J. E., 31, 130
+
+Cutts, Sir John, 201
+
+
+D
+
+Dacre family, 136
+
+Dacres, Robert, 85
+
+David of Scotland, 119
+
+Day family (brass), 169
+
+De Furneaux family, 97, 205
+
+Delawood, W. (brass), 130
+
+Denny, Lady M. (brass), 75
+
+De Ros family, 93
+
+De Toni family, 93
+
+Desborough, Lord, 159
+
+Devereux, Robt., 184
+
+Dickens, Chas., 40, 140
+
+Dickson, Henry (brass), 219
+
+"Dick Turpin," 217
+
+Dion Cassius (quoted), 31
+
+Dixon, Nich. (brass), 85
+
+Docwra family, 145, 162
+
+Doddridge, Rev. P., 41
+
+Dodyngton family (brasses), 177
+
+Dowman family (brass), 155
+
+Duckett, Sir G., 75
+
+Dugdale, quoted, 52, 71, 207
+
+Dyer, Sir W. (brass), 154
+
+
+E
+
+Ebury, Lord, 42, 169
+
+Edelwine the Black, 45, 166    {Egelwine in text}
+
+Edgar, King, 103, 105, 108
+
+Edmund de Langley, 136, 137
+  ---- of Hadham, 103
+  ---- St., 193
+
+Edward I., 180, 214
+  ---- II., 136, 210
+  ---- III., 72, 82, 85, 103
+  ---- IV., 65, 183
+  ---- VI., 56, 108, 110, 154, 168, 202, 232
+  ---- Black Prince, 72
+  ---- the Elder, 118
+
+Egerton family, 42, 47, 53, 98, 154
+
+Egfrith, 198
+
+Eleanor, Queen, 180, 214
+
+Eliot, John, 227
+
+Elizabeth, Queen, 32, 56, 75, 95, 108, 109, 111, 114, 119, 131, 132, 140,
+                  184, 197, 202, 215
+
+Ellis, Thos. and Grace, 121
+
+Elwes family, 208
+
+Entwysel, Sir B., 182
+
+Eric (Baron Reay), 70
+
+Essex, Earls of (see Capell)
+
+Ethelbert, 186
+
+Etheldred, 223
+
+Etheric, Bishop, 207
+
+Eustace de Mere, 172
+  ---- Earl of Boulogne, 130
+
+Evans, Sir John, K.C.B., 33, 35, 138, 153, 155
+
+Evelyn, John, 26
+
+
+F
+
+Fanshawe, Sir Rich., 63, 216
+
+Feilde family, 204
+
+Field, Dr. Nat., 41
+
+Fitzroy, James, 169
+
+Flambard, Simon, 103
+
+Flaunden, Thos., 96
+
+Fleetwood, Bishop, 41
+
+Floyer (Flyer?) family, 78
+
+Forester family, 89
+
+Forster, John, 40, 140
+
+Fortescue, Sir Rich., 196
+
+Fouke, Sir B., 95
+
+Fountaine, Andrew, 151
+
+Fox, George, 41, 127
+
+Freeman, Dr., 58
+
+Frewell (Knight), 153
+
+Frowyk family (brasses), 152
+
+
+G
+
+Garrard, A. G. B. Cherry-, 226
+  ---- Sir J. and Elizabeth, 225
+
+Gaveston, Piers, 41, 136
+
+Geoffrey, Johannes (brass), 198
+  ---- Treasurer, 46
+
+George II., 219
+  ---- III., 209
+
+Gernon, Robt., 144
+
+Gerrard de Furnival, 152
+
+Giacomo Palma, 230
+
+Giant of Weston, 102, 224
+
+Gibbons, Grinling, 220
+
+Gibbs, Mr. A. E., F.L.S. (quoted), 31, 185
+
+Gildas, 178, 186
+
+Giles-Puller, G. B., 124
+
+Glamis, Lord, 43    {Not found in text}
+
+Glascocke, Hon. Sir W., 138
+
+Godwin, Harold, 58, 165
+
+Godwin, Leofwin, 164
+  ---- William, 41, 217
+
+Goisfride de Bech, 145
+
+Goldon, Rich. (brass), 229
+
+Gore family, 100, 104, 210
+
+Gosselin, Miss, 227
+
+Gough the Antiquary, 230
+
+Goulston family, 231
+
+Gray, James (brass), 132
+
+Grimston family, 184, 206
+
+Grimthorpe, Lord, 43, 179, 181, 183, 185, 191
+
+Grose, F. (quoted), 23, 84, 194
+
+Gyll, Geo. (brass), 231
+
+
+H
+
+Haggard, Mr. H. Rider, 54
+
+Hall, Robert, 135
+
+Halsey family, 98
+
+Hamilton, Hon. Geo., 101
+  ---- Jane, 101
+
+Hampden, Viscount, 42, 136
+
+Hanbury, C. A., 63
+
+Hancock, Col. M., 229
+
+Harcourt family, 48
+
+Hardwicke, Earl, 145
+
+Hardwin de Scalers, 125, 231
+
+Harrington, Sir W., 121
+
+Harrison, Sir John, 120
+
+Harvey, Sir Garrett, 104    {Garratt in text}
+
+Hawksmoor, Nich., 201
+
+Helen, St., 59
+
+Helle, Roger, 136
+
+Henry II., 63, 72
+  ---- III., 83, 85, 136, 168
+  ---- IV., 91, 119
+  ---- V., 91, 119, 141, 200
+  ---- VI., 56, 119, 138, 141, 175, 195, 196
+  ---- VII., 110, 217
+  ---- VIII., 58, 80, 85, 108, 132, 148, 201, 202, 232
+  ---- of Huntingdon, 117
+
+Herkomer, Prof., 106
+
+"Hermit of Herts," 205
+
+Hert, James (brass), 127
+
+Heydon family, 159
+
+Heyworth, John and Joan, 225
+
+Hide family, 48
+  ---- Leonard, 131
+
+Hippolits, St., 134
+
+Hogarth, 143
+
+Holes, Justice (brass), 219
+
+Hollinshed (quoted), 196    {Hollinshead in text}
+
+Hoore family (brass), 92
+
+Hopkinson, Mr. J., F.L.S., 12
+
+Horsley, Bishop, 41
+
+Horwode, Ralph (brass), 46
+
+Hotoft, John (brass), 141
+
+Howard of Escrick, 176
+
+Howe, Lord, 201
+
+Howton family (brass), 230
+
+Hugh of Lincoln, 193
+
+Hughes family (brasses), 134
+
+Humberstone family (brasses), 213
+
+Humphrey, Duke of Gloster, 190    {Gloucester in text}
+  ---- Earl, 195
+
+Hutchinson, 48
+
+
+I
+
+Incent, Dr. John, 71
+
+Isabel of Castile, 136, 137
+
+Isabella of France, 119
+  ---- (2nd wife, Rich. II.), 120
+
+
+J
+
+Jack o' Legs, 102, 224
+
+James I., 41, 42, 109, 111, 119, 131, 173, 197, 215
+  ---- II., 32, 176
+
+Janeway, James, 135
+  ---- John, 135
+
+Janssens, C., 143, 161, 220
+
+Jennings, Admiral, 61
+  ---- family, 199
+
+Jerrold, Douglas, 140
+
+Joan of Navarre, 91, 119
+
+Jocelin family, 200
+
+Jocelyn, Sir R., 56
+
+John, 125
+  ---- "Gilpin," 217
+  ---- of France, 119
+  ---- of Gaunt, 118
+
+Johnson, Dr., 40, 222
+
+Jones, Inigo, 140
+
+Joyce, Cornet, 32
+
+Julian the Apostate, 36
+
+
+K
+
+Katharine Tudor, 103, 119, 120    {Katherine in text}
+
+Kemp, Bishop, 103
+
+Ken, Bishop, 41, 73
+
+Kent family (brass), 56
+
+Kesteven, W. (brass), 150
+
+Kit Cat Club, 69
+
+Kneller, 69, 111, 143, 161, 221
+
+Knighton, Sir G., 68
+
+Knolles family (brass), 150
+
+Kybeworth, Thos., 134    {Bybsworth in text}
+
+
+L
+
+Lacon, Edward and Joanna, 229
+
+Lamb, Chas., 28, 40, 49, 101, 146, 147, 227
+  ---- Mary, 146
+  ---- Sir M., 114
+
+Lambard (brass), 124
+
+Langley, W. (brass), 81
+
+Lanvalei family, 213
+
+Lawes, Sir J. B., 108
+
+Lee family, 209
+  ---- Nathaniel, 40
+  ---- Sir Rich., 185
+  ---- ---- W. de la, 46
+
+Lely, 111, 143, 220, 221
+
+Leoni (architect), 169
+
+Leukenor (?), Thos., 224
+
+Leventhorpe family (brasses), 200
+
+Lewin, Earl, 116
+
+Lightfoot (Hebraist), 41
+  ---- J. (brass), 152
+
+Limesy, Ralph, 119, 162
+
+Long, Alderman (brass), 49
+
+Louis XI., 66
+  ---- (Dauphin), 118
+  ---- XVIII., 173
+
+Louthe family (brasses), 121, 207
+
+Loyd, W. J., 142
+
+Lucas, James, 205
+
+Luini, 54
+
+Lushington family, 55
+
+Lyde, Sir L., 57
+
+Lytton, Bulwer, 40, 140
+  ---- family, 139, 140, 141, 144
+  ---- Lord, 42
+
+
+M
+
+Macaulay, Lord, 40, 55, 171
+
+Magnaville, G. de, 100, 149
+  ---- Sir Hugh de, 149
+
+"Maid of the Mill," 165
+
+Makery, Thos., 147
+
+Manning, Cardinal, 209
+
+Margaret of Anjou, 119, 138, 196
+  ---- Countess, 217
+
+Marjoribanks, Edward, 83
+
+Martin, Mr. T. H., 12
+
+Mary (March. Salisbury), 112
+  ---- Tudor, 56, 108, 110, 137, 202
+
+Mattok (brasses), 127
+
+Matthew of  Westminster (quoted) 76
+  ---- Paris (quoted), 40, 158, 166, 179, 186, 192
+
+Maundeville, Sir J., 40
+
+Maurice, Bishop, 74, 228
+
+Mawley, Edward, 12
+
+May, Hugh, 220
+
+Mayne family (brasses), 75
+
+Meetkerke, Sir A., 174
+
+Melbourne, Lord, 42, 114
+
+Miles, General, 85
+
+Miller, Geo. (brass), 219
+
+"Moll Davis," 221
+
+Monk, General, 216
+
+Monmouth (see Fitzroy)
+
+Montacute, 67
+  ---- family, 201
+
+More, Sir Thos., 40, 151
+
+Moreton, Earl, 116
+
+Morison family, 219, 220
+
+Morris, Dr. J., 93
+
+Moss, James (brass), 219
+
+Murillo, 94
+
+Myddleton, Sir Hugh, 10, 50    {Myddelton in text}
+
+
+N
+
+Needham family, 232
+
+Nevil, Robt. and Elizabeth, 46
+
+Nevill, Archbishop, 169
+  ---- Sir Robt., 147
+  ---- Thos., 56
+
+Neville, Sir Thos., 231
+
+Newce family (brasses), 104
+
+Newmarch, Isabel, 120
+
+Newport, Edward, 78
+  ---- Robt. (brass), 97
+
+Nicholson, Dr. J., 31, 192
+
+Nodes family (brasses), 202
+
+Nollekens (sculptor), 158, 208
+
+Norden, J. (quoted), 11, 102, 116, 117, 134
+
+
+O
+
+Odo, Bishop, 165
+
+Offa of Mercia, 116, 122, 158, 168, 178, 186
+
+Ogard, Andrew, 175
+
+Oldhall, Sir J., 132
+
+Oudeby, John (brass), 95
+
+Overbury (brass), 144
+
+Owen, John, 65
+  ---- Tudor, 103
+
+
+P
+
+Paine (architect), 114
+
+Palmerston, Lord, 42
+
+Parker, Dr., 12
+  ---- family (brass), 166
+
+Parr family, 58
+
+Pecok, John and "Maud" (brass), 183
+  ---- Rich. (brass), 167
+
+Peletot, Sir P. (brass), 221
+
+Pemberton, Roger (brass), 181
+
+Penn, William, 41, 87, 168
+
+Penrice, Sir H., 158
+
+Pepys, Sir Lucas, 209
+  ---- Samuel, 26, 65, 164, 217
+
+Percy, Henry, 195
+
+Peri, 162
+
+Perient, J. (brass), 91
+  ---- J., junr. (brass), 92
+
+Peter de Valoignes, 118, 125
+  ---- the Great, 111
+  ---- "Wild Boy," 156
+
+Piers Gaveston, 41, 136
+
+"Piers Shonkes," 78
+
+Pietro Cavalini, 214
+
+Piozzi, Mrs., 158
+
+Pitman, Dr., 148
+
+Pitt, William, 184
+
+Plowden, W. C. M., 68
+
+Plumbe, M. (brass), 231
+
+Plumer, Col. J., 101
+  ---- family, 100
+  ---- William, 101
+
+Pope (quoted), 171
+  ---- Sir T., 109
+
+Portland, Earl, 216
+
+Poyidres, R. (brass), 134    {Poydres in text}
+
+Poynard family (brass), 61
+
+Prescott, Sir G. W., 215
+
+Prest, Johannes, 120
+
+Priestley, Wm., 94    {Priestly in text}
+
+Prior, Matt. (quoted), 128
+
+Pryor, A. Reginald, 15
+  ---- Charity, 60
+
+Pulter family, 89, (brasses) 127
+
+Pygott, T. (brass), 207
+
+Pyke, W. (brass), 85
+
+Pym family, 166
+
+Pyrry family (brasses), 216
+
+
+R
+
+Radcliffe, F. A. D., 125
+
+Randolph, Thos., 103
+
+Ranelagh, Lady, 111, 120
+
+Ransom, W., 25
+
+Raphael, 160
+
+Raven, J. (brass), 72
+
+Ravenscroft family, 65
+
+Rawdon, Sir M., 129
+
+Raymond, Lord Justice, 46
+
+Read(e) family, 113
+
+Reay, Martha, 93
+
+Reed, Isaac, 50
+
+Rembrandt, 161
+
+Revett (architect), 57
+
+Reynes, Elizabeth, 94
+
+Reynolds, Sir J., 111, 112, 220
+
+Rhodes, Cecil, 74
+
+Richard II., 91, 136, 137, 183
+  ---- Duke of York, 195
+  ---- Earl of Cambridge, 138
+
+Richmond, Countess, 217
+
+Ridley, Bishop, 41, 132, 168
+
+Robert, W. (brass), 92
+  ---- de Olgi, 224
+  ---- ---- Sigillo, 46
+  ---- Earl of Ewe, 210
+
+Robins (brass), 183
+
+Robinson, Mrs., 59
+
+Roe, 60
+
+Roesia, Dame, 172
+
+Roger of Wendover, 37
+  ---- the Monk, 148, 156
+
+Romanelli (sculptor), 142
+
+"Rosamund Gray," 227
+
+Rothschild family, 42, 210
+
+Roubeliac (sculptor), 121
+
+Rous, T. B., 170
+
+Rubens, 54, 126, 221
+
+Rumbold, "Hannibal," 175, 176
+
+Russell family, 86, 176, 219
+
+Ryder, H. C. D., 133
+
+Rysbrack (sculptor), 61, 208
+
+
+S
+
+Sabine, Sir J., 207
+
+Sadleir family, 202
+  ---- Sir Ralph, 42, 202, 203
+
+Salisbury family, 42, 94, 108, 110, 111, 113
+
+Salmon, Nat., 31, 224, 228
+
+Salusbury family, 158
+
+Salvator Rosa, 160
+
+Samwell family (brass), 158
+
+Sandwich, Earl of, 93
+
+Saraye, W. (brass), 204
+
+Saunders, James, 20, 21
+  ---- Thos., 95
+
+Saxony, Duke of, 122
+
+Say, Sir W., 79
+
+Sayer, John, 72, 73
+
+Scales family, 172
+
+Scott, John, 40, 50
+  ---- Sir Gilbert, 82, 96, 143, 180, 182, 191, 192
+  ---- Sir W., 77
+
+Seabrooke family, 107
+
+Seddon, J. P., 59
+
+Selina, Countess, 86, 227
+
+Sexi the Dane, 123
+
+Shaw, Mr. Norman, 76
+
+Sherlock, Bishop, 41
+
+Shrimpton, Robt., 194
+
+Sidney, Algernon, 176
+
+Sigar the Hermit, 156
+
+Skelton, John, 40
+
+Smith, Abel, 222
+
+Smith-Bosanquet, Major G. R. B., 80
+  ---- W. G., 33, 155
+
+Somer (brass), 133
+
+Somers, Lord, 41, 150, 151
+
+Southwell, Sir Robt., 231
+
+Spencer, Sir R., 158
+
+Sperehawke, J. (brass), 127
+
+Spycere, Eliz., 74
+
+Stables, Lt.-Col., 130
+
+Stapleford, H. and D., 197
+
+Stephen, 210
+
+Stern, Mrs., 63
+
+Stigand, Archbishop, 56
+
+St. Legier family, 158
+
+Stone, Nich., 219
+
+Stow, John (quoted), 196
+
+Strathmore, Lord, 197
+
+Stratton, John, 73
+
+Strong, Edward, 182
+
+Stuart, Lady A., 63
+
+Stukeley, Dr., 228
+
+Styles, B. H., 169, 170
+
+Sudley, Lord, 195
+
+
+T
+
+Taberam, W. (brass), 172
+
+Tacitus (quoted), 31, 213
+
+Tankerville, G., 179
+
+Taverner family, 121
+
+Thomson, James, 63
+
+Thornbury family, 153
+  ---- Sir John, 83, 153
+
+Thornhill, Sir James, 170
+
+Thrale, Mrs., 158
+
+Thurtell, 93
+
+Tillotson, Archbishop, 41
+
+Tinworth, 70
+
+Titian, 54
+
+Titus, Silas, 83
+
+Tonson, 69    {Not found in text}
+
+Tooke family, 94
+  ---- Wm. (brass), 94
+
+Torrington, Margaret, 72
+  ---- Rich., 72
+
+Townsend, Chas., 120
+
+Tremouille, Charlotte, 221
+
+Trigg, Henry, 205
+
+Turenne, 161
+
+Tykering, Rich., 64
+
+Tymms (quoted), 24
+
+
+U
+
+Usher, Archbishop, 104
+
+
+V
+
+Valpy family, 228
+
+Vandyck, 111, 143
+
+Van Somer, 111, 143, 161
+
+Verulam, Earl, 43
+
+Vere, Sir R., 196
+
+Veronese, 160
+
+Villiers family, 143, 161, 184
+
+Vynter, John (brass), 87
+
+
+W
+
+Walchelin, Bishop, 89
+
+Walpole, Horace, 219
+
+Walton, Izaak, 40, 128
+
+Ward, Dr. Seth, 55, 81
+  ---- Mrs. H., 47
+
+Waren, Rich. (brass), 105
+
+Warham, Bishop, 41
+
+Warner, W., 50
+
+Warwick, "Kingmaker," 66, 67, 195, 196
+
+Watson, H. C., 15
+
+Watts, Isaac, 41
+
+Weare, William, 93
+
+Wentworth, Thos., 184
+
+Whitefield, Geo., 127
+
+Whithred, King, 73
+
+Whittingham, Sir R., 48
+
+Wilkie, 111
+
+Willet, Dr. A. (brass), 61
+
+William I., 24, 31, 74, 85, 102, 116, 118, 125, 165, 210, 224, 231
+  ---- III., 111
+  ---- de Cantilupe, 125
+  ---- Earl of Ewe, 102, 125
+  ---- Earl of Salisbury, 119
+  ---- of Malmesbury, 110, 117, 186
+
+Willis, Thos., 119
+
+Wilshere family, 223
+
+Wincelfled, 45, 166
+
+Wodehouse, R. (brass), 129
+
+Wolsey, Cardinal, 41, 86, 169, 232
+
+Wolvey, Thos. (brass), 183
+
+Wortham, Hale, 12
+
+Wren, Sir C, 210
+
+Wright, John (brass), 87
+
+Wyatt (architect), 53, 98, 200, 220
+
+Wykins, John, 86
+
+Wyndham, Mrs. E. (brass), 182
+
+Wynne, 60
+
+Wyrley, Thos. (brass), 143
+
+
+Y
+
+Yarrell, Wm., 69
+
+Young, Edward, 40, 222
+  ---- Robert, 148
+
+
+Z
+
+Zucchero, 110, 112, 143
+
+PRINTED  IN  GREAT  BRITAIN  BY
+JARROLD AND SONS, LTD., NORWICH
+
+
+
+
+=THE LITTLE GUIDES=
+
+PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS
+
+DELIGHTFUL GIFT BOOKS
+
+Pott 8vo, =4s.= net to =7s. 6d.= net
+
+THE 59 VOLUMES IN THE SERIES ARE:--
+
+Bedfordshire and Huntingdonshire
+Berkshire
+Brittany
+Buckinghamshire
+Cambridge and Colleges
+Cambridgeshire
+Channel Islands
+Cheshire
+Cornwall
+Cumberland and Westmoreland
+Derbyshire
+Devon
+Dorset
+Durham
+English Lakes
+Essex
+Gloucestershire
+Hampshire
+Herefordshire
+Hertfordshire
+Isle of Wight
+Kent
+Kerry
+Lancashire
+Leicestershire and Rutland
+Lincolnshire
+London
+Malvern Country
+Middlesex
+Monmouthshire
+Norfolk
+Normandy
+Northamptonshire
+Northumberland
+North Wales
+Nottinghamshire
+Oxford and Colleges
+Oxfordshire
+Rome
+St Paul's Cathedral
+Shakespeare's Country
+Shropshire
+Sicily
+Snowdonia
+Somerset
+South Wales
+Staffordshire
+Suffolk
+Surrey
+Sussex
+Temple
+Warwickshire
+Westminster Abbey
+Wiltshire
+Worcestershire
+Yorkshire East Riding
+Yorkshire North Riding
+Yorkshire West Riding
+York (_in preparation_)
+
+METHUEN & CO. LTD
+36 ESSEX STREET LONDON W.C.2
+
+
+
+
+THE LITTLE GUIDES
+
+
+The main features of these books are (1) a handy and charming form, (2)
+numerous illustrations from photographs and by well-known artists, (3)
+good plans and maps, (4) an adequate but compact presentation of
+everything that is interesting in the natural features, history,
+archæology, and architecture of the town or district treated.
+
+In those volumes which treat of counties, there is first a general
+description of the country--its situation, physical features, flora and
+fauna, climate, inhabitants, industries, history and archæology. Then
+follows an account of the chief towns and places of interest in
+alphabetical order.
+
+The books are not guides in the ordinary sense of the word. They do not
+give the usual routes for expeditions, information about hotels, etc.,
+but they contain information which may be sufficient for the ordinary
+tourist of literary tastes, and they form not only practical handbooks,
+but delightful gift books.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Bedfordshire and Huntingdonshire.= By HERBERT W. MACKLIN, M.A.
+With 24 Illustrations from Photographs and 2 Maps. 4s. net.
+
+=Berkshire.= By F. G. BRABANT. With 24 Illustrations by E. H.
+New and from Photographs, and 3 Maps and 3 Plans. _Second Edition._ 4s.
+net.
+
+=Buckinghamshire.= By E. S. ROSCOE. With 28 Illustrations by F.
+D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. _Third Edition._
+4s. net.
+
+=Cambridgeshire.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 25
+Illustrations from Photographs, 3 Maps and a Plan. 4s. net.
+
+=Cheshire.= By WALTER M. GALLICHAN. With 48 Illustrations by
+Elizabeth Hartley and from Photographs, 2 Maps and a Plan. _Second
+Edition._ 5s. net.
+
+=Cornwall.= By ARTHUR L. SALMON. With 26 Illustrations by B. C.
+Boulter and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Fourth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Cumberland and Westmoreland.= By DANIEL SCOTT. With 24
+Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps. 6s. net.
+
+=Derbyshire.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 32
+Illustrations by J. Charles Wall and from Photographs, and 2 Maps.
+_Third Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Devon.= By S. BARING-GOULD, M.A. With 32 Illustrations and 2
+Maps. _Sixth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Dorset.= By FRANK R. HEATH. With 33 Illustrations from
+Photographs, 3 Maps and a Plan. _Sixth Edition._ 5s. 6d. net.
+
+=Durham.= By J. E. HODGKIN. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs, 3 Maps and 4 Plans. 4s. net.
+
+=Essex.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 32 Illustrations
+from Photographs, and 2 Maps _Third Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Gloucestershire.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 28
+Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps and 4 Plans. _Third Edition._
+4s. net.
+
+=Hampshire.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 28
+Illustrations by M. E. Purser and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans.
+_Fourth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Herefordshire.= By G. W. WADE, D.D, and J. H. WADE,
+M.A. With 26 Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. 4s.
+net.
+
+=Hertfordshire.= By HERBERT W. TOMPKINS, F.R.Hist.S. With 26
+Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Second
+Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Kent.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 24 Illustrations
+by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Plans and 2 Maps. _Third
+Edition, Revised._ 4s. net.
+
+=Kerry.= By C. P. CRANE, D.S.O. With 36 Illustrations from
+Photographs and 2 Maps. _Second Edition, Revised._ 4s. net.
+
+=Lancashire.= By F. H. CHEETHAM, F.S.A. With 24 Illustrations
+and 2 Maps and 2 Plans. 6s. net.
+
+=Leicestershire and Rutland.= By A. HARVEY and V. B.
+CROWTHER-BEYNON, M.A., F.S.A. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs, and 2 Maps. 4s. net.
+
+=Lincolnshire.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 28
+Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. 4s. net.
+
+=Middlesex.= By JOHN B. FIRTH. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs and Old Prints, 3 Maps and a Plan. 4s. net.
+
+=Monmouthshire.= By G. W. WADE, D.D., and J. H. WADE,
+M.A. With 32 Illustrations from Photographs, 4 Maps and 4 Plans. 4s.
+net.
+
+=Norfolk.= By WILLIAM A. DUTT. With 30 Illustrations by B. C.
+Boulter and from Photographs, and 3 Maps. _Fifth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Northamptonshire.= By WAKELING DRY. With 40 Illustrations from
+Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Third Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Northumberland.= By JOSEPH E. MORRIS, B.A. With 32
+Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 4 Plans. 5s. net.
+
+=Nottinghamshire.= By EVERARD L. GUILFORD, M.A. With 30
+Illustrations and 3 Maps. 4s. net.
+
+=Oxfordshire.= By F. G. BRABANT, M.A. With 28 Illustrations by
+Edmund H. New and from Photographs, 3 Maps and a Plan. _Third Edition._
+4s. net.
+
+=Shropshire.= By J. E. AUDEN, M.A., F.R.Hist.S. With 28
+Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Third Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Somerset.= By G. W. WADE, D.D., and J. H. WADE, M.A.
+With 32 Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. _Sixth
+Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Staffordshire.= By CHARLES MASEFIELD. With 32 Illustrations
+from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. _Second Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Suffolk.= By WILLIAM A. DUTT. With 28 Illustrations by J.
+Wylie, Frank Southgate, R.B.A., and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Third
+Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Surrey.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 29
+Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Fourth
+Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Sussex.= By F. G. BRABANT, M.A. With 24 Illustrations by
+Edmund H. New and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 6 Plans. _Sixth Edition._
+4s. net.
+
+=Wales, North.= By ALFRED T. STORY. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Second Edition._ 6s. net.
+
+=Wales, South.= By G. W. WADE, D.D., and J. H. WADE,
+M.A. With 32 Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps. 4s. net.
+
+=Warwickshire.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 24
+Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps and 4 Plans. 4s. net.
+
+=Wight, Isle Of.= By GEORGE CLINCH, F.S.A.Scot., F.G.S. With
+28 Illustrations by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 3
+Plans. _Second Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Wiltshire.= By FRANK R. HEATH. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. _Fourth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Worcestershire.= By F. T. S. HOUGHTON. With 26 Illustrations,
+2 Maps and 2 Plans, 6s. net.
+
+=York.= By JOSEPH E. MORRIS, B.A. With 8 Illustrations and 15
+Plans (_in preparation_).
+
+=Yorkshire, East Riding of.= By JOSEPH E. MORRIS, B.A. With 27
+Illustrations by R. J. S. Bertram and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2
+Plans. _Second Edition._ 5s. net.
+
+=Yorkshire, North Riding of.= By JOSEPH E. MORRIS, B.A. With 26
+Illustrations by R. J. S. Bertram and from Photographs, 3 Maps and 7
+Plans. _Second Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Yorkshire, West Riding of.= By JOSEPH E. MORRIS, B.A. With 26
+Illustrations, 2 Maps and 7 Plans. _Second Edition._ 7s. 6d. net.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cambridge and Its Colleges.= By A. HAMILTON THOMPSON, M.A.
+With 23 Illustrations by Edmund H. New, and a Map. _Fifth Edition._ 4s.
+net.
+
+=Channel Islands, The.= By ETHEL E. BICKNELL. With 32
+Illustrations and 5 Maps. 4s. net.
+
+=English Lakes, The.= By F. G. BRABANT, M.A. With 20
+Illustrations by Edmund H. New, 11 Maps and a Plan. _Second Edition._
+6s. net.
+
+=London.= By GEORGE CLINCH, F.S.A.Scot., F.G.S. With 32
+Illustrations from Photographs and old Engravings, and a Map. 4s. net.
+
+=Malvern Country, The.= By Sir BERTRAM C. A. WINDLE, D.Sc.,
+F.R.S., F.S.A. With 23 Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from
+Photographs, and a Plan. _Third Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Oxford and its Colleges.= By J. WELLS, M.A. With 27
+Illustrations by Edmund H. New, 6 Plans and a Map. _Twelfth Edition._
+4s. net.
+
+=St Paul's Cathedral.= By GEORGE CLINCH, F.S.A.Scot., F.G.S.
+With 30 Illustrations by B. Alcock and from Old Prints, and 3 Plans. 4s.
+net.
+
+=Shakespeare's Country.= By Sir BERTRAM C. A. WINDLE, D.Sc.,
+F.R.S., F.S.A. With 25 Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from
+Photographs, a Map and a Plan. _Sixth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Snowdonia.= By F. G. BRABANT, M.A. With 24 Illustrations from
+Photographs, 3 Maps and 3 Plans. 6s. net.
+
+=Temple, The.= By HUGH H. L. BELLOT, MA., D.C.L. With 40
+Illustrations by Jenny Wylie and from Photographs, and a Plan. _Second
+Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Westminster Abbey.= By G. E. TROUTBECK. With 41 Illustrations
+by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, and a Plan. _Second Edition._ 4s.
+net.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+FOREIGN
+
+=Brittany.= By S. BARING-GOULD, M.A. With 28 Illustrations by
+Jenny Wylie and from Photographs, and 3 Maps. _Fourth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Normandy.= By CYRIL SCUDAMORE, M.A. With 40 Illustrations from
+Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Second Edition, Revised._ 4s. net.
+
+=Rome.= By C. G. ELLABY. With 38 Illustrations by B. C. Boulter
+and from Photographs, and a Map. 4s. net.
+
+=Sicily.= By F. HAMILTON JACKSON. With 34 Illustrations by the
+Author and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Second Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+
+METHUEN & CO. LTD, 36 ESSEX ST., LONDON, W.C.2
+
+
+{Transcriber's notes
+
+[a] "protusion" changed to "protrusion"
+
+[b] "protusion" changed to "protrusion"
+
+[c] "filixfoemina" changed to "filixfæmina"
+
+[d] "Guillemot" changed to "guillemot";
+    "Locustella noevia" changed to "Locustella nævia"
+
+[e] "Icene" changed to "Iceni"
+
+[f] "Wincelfied" changed to "Wincelfled"
+
+[g] "Aldeberie" unclear in original but checked with other sources
+
+[h] "in" changed to "is"
+
+[i] "Wymondly" changed to "Wymondley"
+
+[j] "From" changed to "from"
+
+[k] "L.&S.W.R." changed to "L.&N.W.R."
+
+[l] "Julian's" changed to "Julians"
+
+[m] "projectin gentrance" changed to "projecting entrance"
+
+[n] "Pishobury" changed to "Pishiobury"
+
+[o] "Blakemoor" changed to "Blakesmoor"
+
+The following place names have inconsistent spellings:
+Abbot's Langley, Abbots Langley
+Gubblecote, Gubblecot
+Luffenhall, Lufen Hall
+Piccott's End, Piccotts End
+(St.) Ippollitts, Ippollit's, Ippollits
+
+Some of the index entries do not correspond exactly to the body of the
+text. The differences are as follows:
+
+Index                      Text
+
+Anorbul                    Annabull
+Brakespear                 Breakspeare
+Cassivelaunus              Cassivellaunus
+Edelwine                   Egelwine
+Hollinshed                 Hollinshead
+Glamis                     Not found in text
+Humphrey, Duke of Gloster  Gloucester
+Harvey, Sir Garrett        Garratt
+Katharine Tudor            Katherine
+Kybeworth                  Bybsworth
+Myddleton, Sir Hugh        Myddelton
+Poyidres                   Poydres
+Priestley                  Priestly
+Tonson                     Not found in text
+
+}
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hertfordshire, by Herbert W Tompkins
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HERTFORDSHIRE ***
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hertfordshire, by Herbert W Tompkins
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Hertfordshire
+
+Author: Herbert W Tompkins
+
+Illustrator: Edmund H. New
+
+Release Date: April 25, 2006 [EBook #18252]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HERTFORDSHIRE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Louise Pryor and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+<div class="transnote">
+<h3>Transcriber&rsquo;s note</h3>
+
+<p>A few corrections have
+been made for obvious typographical errors; they have been <a class="correction" href="#corrections" title="Like this">noted
+individually</a>, and, together with other notes, <a href="#corrections">listed</a> at the end of the e-text. </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="center biggap">
+   <a id="endpaper" name="endpaper"></a>
+<a href="images/endpaper-front.png">
+   <img src="images/endpaper_thumb.png"
+      alt="The Railways of Hertfordshire "
+      title="The Railways of Hertfordshire"
+      height="238" width="300"/>
+</a>
+   <p class="caption">The Railways of Hertfordshire</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h1>HERTFORDSHIRE</h1>
+
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo001" name="illo001"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo001.png"
+      alt="ST. ALBAN'S ABBEY CHURCH"
+      title="ST. ALBAN'S ABBEY CHURCH"
+      height="370" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">ST. ALBAN&rsquo;S ABBEY CHURCH</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="titlepage narrow biggap">
+<p class="biggest center gaparound">
+HERTFORDSHIRE</p>
+
+<p class="center big bt padt">
+<i>By</i><br />
+
+HERBERT W. TOMPKINS<br />
+
+<span class="little">F.R.Hist.S.</span></p>
+
+<p class="center big bb padb">
+<i>With Illustrations by</i><br />
+
+EDMUND H. NEW<br />
+<span class="little">
+AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS<br />
+
+AND TWO MAPS</span></p>
+
+<div class="poem narrow"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;Hearty, homely, loving Hertfordshire&rdquo;<br /></span>
+</div>
+<p class="toright">&mdash;<span class="smcap">Charles Lamb</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center big bt padt">
+LONDON<br />
+
+METHUEN &amp; CO. LTD.<br />
+
+<i>36 Essex St. Strand</i></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">
+<i>Second Edition, Revised</i>
+</p>
+
+
+<div class="center biggap">
+<table summary="Publication information">
+  <tr><td><i>First Published</i></td><td class="center"><i> March 1903</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td><i>Second Edition, Revised</i></td><td class="center"><i>1922</i></td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<p class="center biggap big">
+<span class="little">TO</span><br />
+
+MY WIFE
+</p>
+
+
+<hr class="biggap" />
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii"></a>[Pg&nbsp;vii]</span><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2>
+
+
+<p>In the following pages I have endeavoured to give a brief description of
+Hertfordshire on the lines of Mr. F. G. Brabant&rsquo;s book in this series.
+The general features of the county are briefly described in the
+<a href="#INTRODUCTION" >Introduction</a>, in sections approximately corresponding to the sections of
+the volume on Sussex. I have thought it wise, however, to compress the
+Introduction within the briefest limits, in order that, in the
+Gazetteer, I might have space for more adequate treatment than would
+otherwise have been possible.</p>
+
+<p>I have visited a large proportion of the towns, villages and hamlets of
+Hertfordshire, and have, so far as possible, written from personal
+observation.</p>
+
+<p>I desire to thank Mr. John Hopkinson, F.L.S., F.G.S., etc., for his
+kindness in writing the sections on <i>Climate</i> and <i>Botany</i>; Mr. A. E.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii"></a>[Pg&nbsp;viii]</span>Gibbs, F.L.S., F.R.H.S., for his permission to make use of several
+miscellanies from his pen, and Mr. Alfred Bentley of New Barnet for his
+courtesy in placing some photographs from his collection at the disposal
+of Mr. New.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="smcap">Verulam,<br />
+Southend-on-Sea,<br />
+1903.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<h2><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix"></a>[Pg&nbsp;ix]</span><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table summary="Table of contents">
+  <tr><td  colspan="2"></td><td class="toright"><span class="smcap">Page</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Introduction</span></td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroI" >I</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Situation, Extent and Boundaries</span></td><td class="toright">  <a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroII" >II</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Physical Features</span></td><td class="toright">   <a href="#Page_2">2</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroIII" >III</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Climate</span></td><td class="toright">    <a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroIV" >IV</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Flora and Fauna</span></td><td class="toright">    <a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroV" >V</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Population</span></td><td class="toright">   <a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroVI" >VI</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Communications</span></td><td class="toright">   <a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroVII" >VII</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Industries</span></td><td class="toright">   <a href="#Page_28">28</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroVIII" >VIII</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">History</span> </td><td class="toright">   <a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroIX" >IX</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Antiquities</span></td><td class="toright">    <a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroX" >X</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Celebrated Men</span></td><td class="toright">   <a href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Description of Places in Hertfordshire
+arranged Alphabetically</span></td><td class="toright">  <a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Index to Persons</span> </td><td class="toright">  <a href="#Page_235">235</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x"></a>[Pg&nbsp;x]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="biggap" />
+<h2><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi"></a>[Pg&nbsp;xi]</span><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS_AND_MAPS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS_AND_MAPS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS</h2>
+
+
+<div class="center">
+<table summary="List of illustrations">
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+      <span class="smcap"><a href="#endpaper" >The Railways of Hertfordshire</a></span>
+    </td>
+    <td class="toright">
+      <i><a href="#endpaper" >Front Cover</a></i>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+      <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo001" >The Abbey Church, St. Albans</a></span>  <br />
+      (<i>From a Photograph by the Graphotone Co., Enfield</i>)
+    </td>
+    <td class="toright">
+      <i><a href="#illo001" >Frontispiece</a></i>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+      <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo002" >Leafless Beeches in November, Ashridge Woods</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead</i>)
+    </td>
+    <td class="toright">
+      <i>To face page</i> <a href="#illo002" >2</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+      <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo003" >On the River Colne</a></span> <br />
+      (<i>From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead</i>)
+    </td>
+    <td class="toright">
+      <a href="#illo003" >8</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+      <span class="smcap"> <a href="#illo004" >Grand Junction Canal at Tring&mdash;The Highest Water Level in England</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead</i>)
+    </td>
+    <td class="toright">
+       <a href="#illo004" >10</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+      <span class="smcap"> <a href="#illo005" >The Parish Church, Aldbury</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead</i>)
+    </td>
+    <td class="toright">
+      <a href="#illo005" >47</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+      <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo006" >Ashridge House</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead</i>)
+    </td>
+    <td class="toright">
+      <a href="#illo006" >53</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo007" >Old Cottage, Baldock</a></span> <br />
+      (<i>From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright">
+      <a href="#illo007" >59</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo008" >Castle Street, Berkhampstead</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo008" >72</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo009" >Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo009" >74</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo010" >Broxbourne</a></span>
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo010" >79</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo011" >Chorley Wood Common</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photo. by the London Stereoscopic &amp; Photo. Co.</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo011" >87</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo012" >Hatfield House</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo012" >109</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo013" >King James&rsquo;s Drawing-Room, Hatfield House</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo013" >111</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo014" >Hemel Hempstead</a></span>
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo014" >115</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo015" >Hertford</a></span>
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo015" >117</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii"></a>[Pg&nbsp;xii]</span>
+      <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo016" >Hitchin</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo016" >125</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo017" >Knebworth Park</a></span>
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo017" >139</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo018" >Old Cottages near Mackery End</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photograph by the Author</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo018" >146</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo019" >Rickmansworth</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photo. by the London Stereoscopic &amp; Photo. Co.</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo019" >170</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo020" >The High Street, Royston</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo020" >172</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo021" >The Fighting Cocks, St. Albans&mdash;The Oldest Inn in England</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo021" >178</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo022" >Bacon&rsquo;s Monument</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo022" >183</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo023" >Ruins of Bacon&rsquo;s House</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo023" >184</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo024" >St. Alban&rsquo;s Shrine</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photograph by the Graphotone Co., Enfield</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo024" >192</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo025" >Stevenage Church</a></span><br />
+      (<i>From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate</i>)
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo025" >204</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo026" >Waltham Cross</a></span>
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo026" >214</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="illotoc">
+       <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo027" >Map of Hertfordshire</a></span>
+   </td>
+    <td class="toright"><a href="#illo027" >233</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<hr  class="biggap" />
+<h2><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a>[Pg&nbsp;1]</span><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION</h2>
+
+
+<h3><a name="IntroI" id="IntroI"></a>I. <span class="smcap">Situation, Extent and Boundaries</span></h3>
+
+<p>Hertfordshire, or Herts, is a county in the S.E. of England. On the S.
+it is bounded by Middlesex; on the S.W. by Buckinghamshire; on the N.W.
+by Bedfordshire; on the N. by Cambridgeshire; on the E. by Essex. Its
+extreme measurement from due E. to W., say from Little Hyde Hall to
+Puttenham, is about 38 miles; from N. to S., from Mobb&rsquo;s Hole at the top
+of Ashwell Common to a point just S. of Totteridge Green, about 30
+miles; but a longer line, 36 miles in length, may be drawn from Mobb&rsquo;s
+Hole to Troy Farm in the S.W. Its boundaries are very irregular; the
+neighbourhood of Long Marston is almost surrounded by Buckinghamshire
+and Bedfordshire, that of Hinxworth by Cambridgeshire and Bedfordshire,
+and that of Barnet by Middlesex. Its extreme points are:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table summary="Latitudes and longitudes" class="tight">
+  <tr><td>N. </td><td>Lat.  </td><td class="toright">52&deg; </td><td class="toright"> 5&acute; </td><td>(N.)</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>E. </td><td>Long. </td><td class="toright"> 0&deg; </td><td class="toright">13&acute; </td><td>(E.)</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>W. </td><td>Long. </td><td class="toright"> 0&deg; </td><td class="toright">45&acute; </td><td>(W.)</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>S. </td><td>Lat.  </td><td class="toright">51&deg; </td><td class="toright">36&acute; </td><td>(N.)</td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<p>Its area is 404,523 acres or 632 square miles. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a>[Pg&nbsp;2]</span>It is one of the
+smallest counties in England, the still smaller counties being Rutland,
+Middlesex, Huntingdon, Bedford and Monmouth. Hertfordshire is one of the
+six home counties.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo002" name="illo002"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo002.jpg"
+      alt="LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS"
+      title="LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS"
+      height="420" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a name="IntroII" id="IntroII"></a>II. <span class="smcap">Physical Features</span></h3>
+
+<p>Hertfordshire, being an inland county, is naturally devoid of many
+charms to be found in those counties which have a sea-coast. But it has
+beauties of its own, being particularly varied and undulating. Its
+scenery is pleasantly diversified by many woods, which however are
+mostly of but small extent, by swelling cornfields, and by several small
+and winding streams. There is much rich loam in the many little
+valley-bottoms traversed by these streams, and other loams of inferior
+quality are found in abundance on the higher levels of the arable
+districts. The soil in many parts, owing to the preponderance of chalk,
+is specially adapted to the cultivation of wheat. Its trees have
+elicited the admiration of many, particularly its oaks and elms, of
+which colossal specimens are found here and there throughout the county,
+and its beeches, of which the beautiful woods on the Chiltern slopes and
+elsewhere in the W. are largely composed. The hornbeam is almost
+restricted to Essex and Hertfordshire. The woods of Hertfordshire form
+indeed its sweetest attraction in the eyes of many. The districts of
+Rickmansworth, Radlett, Wheathampstead and Breachwood Green, among
+others, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a>[Pg&nbsp;3]</span>are dotted with coppices of ideal loveliness, and larger
+woods such as Batch Wood near St. Albans and Bricket Wood near Watford
+are carpeted with flowers in their season, interspersed with glades, and
+haunted by jays and doves, by ringlets and brimstones. Hazel woods
+abound, and parties of village children busily &ldquo;a-nutting&rdquo; in the autumn
+are one of the commonest sights of the county. It abounds, too, in quiet
+park-like spots which are the delight of artists, and contains many
+villages and hamlets picturesquely situated upon slopes and embowered
+among trees. A large proportion of the birds known to English observers
+are found in the county either regularly or as chance visitors, and will
+be treated more fully in a separate section. The many narrow, winding,
+flower-scented lanes are one of the chief beauties of Hertfordshire. The
+eastern part of the county, though, on the whole, less charming to the
+eye than the rest, contains some fine manor houses and interesting old
+parish churches. Its most beautiful part is unquestionably the W., near
+the Buckinghamshire border; its greatest historic interest centres
+around St. Albans, with its wonderful old abbey church now largely
+restored; Berkhampstead, Hertford, Hatfield and Hitchin. The county
+contains rather less than the average of waste or common land; the
+stretches of heath used for grazing purposes only aggregating 1,200
+acres.</p>
+
+<p>Among the finest panoramic views may be mentioned:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a>[Pg&nbsp;4]</span>(1) From the hill near Boxmoor Station.</p>
+
+<p>(2) From the village of Wigginton, looking S.</p>
+
+<p>(3) From the high-road between Graveley and Baldock.</p>
+
+<p>(4) From Windmill Hill, Hitchin, looking W.</p>
+
+<p>There were medicinal waters at Barnet, Northaw, Hemel Hempstead and
+Welwyn, but these are now disused. Many other details touching
+physiographical characteristics are mentioned as occasion arises in the
+Alphabetical Gazetteer which follows this Introduction.</p>
+
+<p>The Geology of Hertfordshire must be here summarised in few words. The
+predominant formations are the Cretaceous and the Tertiary.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Cretaceous.</span>&mdash;Ignoring the Gault, which barely touches the
+county, this formation consists chiefly of Chalk-marl, Lower, Middle and
+Upper Chalk. A series of Chalk Downs, an extension of the Chiltern
+Hills, stretches, roughly speaking, from Tring to Royston, forming by
+far the most prominent natural feature of Hertfordshire. The oldest
+rocks are in the N.W.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Chalk Marl</i> is superimposed upon the Gault and Upper Greensand
+beds, which are confined to the western portion of the county. Its upper
+layer passes into a sandy limestone, known as Totternhoe stone, which
+has furnished materials for many churches in the shire. Ashwell, Pirton
+and Tring may be named as neighbourhoods where this stratum may be
+traced.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a>[Pg&nbsp;5]</span><i>The Lower Chalk</i> is devoid of flints, and rests, in somewhat steeply
+sloping beds, upon the Totternhoe stone. It forms the western slopes of
+the Dunstable Downs, and of the Chiltern Hills. It is fossiliferous, one
+of the commonest of its shells being the Terebratula.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Middle Chalk</i>, of resonant hardness, is laminated, and has at its
+base the Melbourn Rock and at its summit the Chalk Rock. Nodules of
+flint, greenish in appearance, and (rarely) arranged in layers, occur
+sparsely in the Middle Chalk, which may be traced in the neighbourhood
+of Boxmoor, Berkhampstead and Baldock, and also in a few other
+districts.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Upper Chalk.</i>&mdash;Although, as has been stated, the configuration of
+Hertfordshire is very undulating, we are able to discern a general trend
+in certain districts. Thus, there is a gradual slope to the S. from the
+N.W. and central hills, a slope which comprises the larger part of the
+county. This slope is formed of the Upper Chalk, a formation abounding
+in layers of black flints. The chalk is whiter than that of the lower
+beds, and very much softer. Fossil sponges, sea-urchins, etc., are
+abundant in this formation.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Tertiary.</span>&mdash;Many of the chalk hills of Hertfordshire are strewn
+with outlying more recent deposits which prove that the lower Tertiary
+beds were more extensive in remote ages. The beds of sand and clay, of
+such frequent occurrence in the S.E. districts, contain <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a>[Pg&nbsp;6]</span>fossils so
+distinct from those of the Upper Chalk that an immense interval must
+have elapsed before those Tertiary deposits were in turn laid down.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Eocene Formation.</i>&mdash;The <i>Thanet Beds</i>, of light-coloured sands,
+present in some other parts of the London Basin, notably in Kent, are
+wanting in Hertfordshire. There are, however, some widespread deposits
+of loamy sands which may possibly be rearranged material from the Thanet
+Beds.</p>
+
+<p>The lowest Eocene deposits in the county are the <i>Reading Beds</i>. These
+rest directly upon the Chalk and have an average thickness of, say, 25
+feet. They may be traced E. to S.W. from the brickfields near Hertford
+to Hatfield Park; thence to the kilns on Watford Heath and at Bushey;
+they may also be traced from Watford to Harefield Park. These beds
+contain flints, usually found close to the Chalk, and consist chiefly of
+mottled clays, sands, and pebble-beds. Fossils are but rarely found.
+From the Woolwich and Reading Beds come those conglomerate masses of
+flint pebbles commonly called Hertfordshire <i>plum-pudding stone</i>. These
+have usually a silicious matrix and were often used by the Romans and
+others for making querns for corn-grinding. It is, perhaps, not
+impertinent to mention here the opinion of geologists that during the
+<i>Eocene Period</i> a considerable portion of the land usually spoken of as
+S.E. England was covered by the ocean.</p>
+
+<p>Resting upon the <i>Reading Beds</i> we find <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a>[Pg&nbsp;7]</span>that well-known stratum called
+the <i>London Clay</i>, which is of bluish hue when dug at any considerable
+depth. It is found in some of the same districts as the <i>Woolwich</i> and
+<i>Reading Beds</i>, and from Hertford and Watford it extends to N.E. and
+S.W. respectively until it leaves Hertfordshire. Its direction may be
+approximately traced by a series of hills, none of which are of any
+great height.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Drift.</i>&mdash;In Hertfordshire, as elsewhere, the strata whose names are
+so familiar to geologists do not form the existing <i>surface</i> of the
+ground. For the origin of this we go back to a comparatively recent
+period, when disintegration was busily working upon the solid rocks, and
+glaciers were moving southwards, leaving stones and much loose <i>d&eacute;bris</i>
+in their wake. Rivers, some of which, as in the Harpenden valley, have
+long ceased to run, separated the flints from the chalk, forming a
+gravel which is found in quantities at Harpenden, Wheathampstead and St.
+Albans, and is, indeed, present in all valley-bottoms, even where no
+river now runs. Gravel, together with clays, sand, and alluvial loams,
+forms, for the most part, the actual surface of the county.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Rivers" id="Rivers"></a><i>The Rivers</i> of Hertfordshire are many, if we include several so small
+as hardly to deserve the name. They are the Ash, Beane, Bulbourne,
+Chess, Colne, Gade, Hiz, Ivel, Lea, Maran, Purwell, Quin, Rhee, Rib,
+Stort and Ver.</p>
+
+<p>1. <i>The Ash</i> rises near Little Hadham, and, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>[Pg&nbsp;8]</span>passing the village of
+Widford, joins the Lea at Stanstead.</p>
+
+<p>2. <i>The Beane</i>, rising in the parish of Cottered, runs to Walkern, where
+it passes close to the church, and flows from thence past Aston and
+Watton, and into the Lea at Hertford.</p>
+
+<p>3. <i>The Bulbourne</i> rises in the parish of Tring, passes N.E. of
+Berkhampstead and S.W. of Hemel Hempstead and unites with the Gade at
+Two Waters.</p>
+
+<p>4. <i>The Chess</i> enters the county from Buckinghamshire at Sarratt Mill,
+and flowing past Loudwater joins the Gade at Rickmansworth. The Valley
+of the Chess is one of the prettiest districts in the shire.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo003" name="illo003"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo003.jpg"
+      alt="ON THE RIVER COLNE"
+      title="ON THE RIVER COLNE"
+      height="446" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">ON THE RIVER COLNE</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>5. <i>The Colne</i> rises near Sleap&rsquo;s Hyde, is crossed by the main road from
+Barnet to St. Albans at London Colney, and by the main road from Edgware
+to St. Albans at Colney Street. Thence it passes between Bushey Hall and
+Bushey Lodge, flows through Watford to Rickmansworth where, uniting with
+the Gade and Chess, it enters Middlesex near Stocker&rsquo;s Farm.</p>
+
+<p>6. <i>The Gade</i> rises near Little Gaddesden, skirts Hemel Hempstead Church
+on the W. side, and passing King&rsquo;s Langley and Hunton Bridge, flows
+through Cassiobury Park and joins the Chess and Colne at Rickmansworth.</p>
+
+<p>7. <i>The Hiz</i>, rising at Well Head, S.W. of Hitchin, crosses that town,
+joins the Purwell at Grove Mill and leaves the county at Cadwell.</p>
+
+<p>8. <i>The Ivel</i> rises near Baldock, flows to <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a>[Pg&nbsp;9]</span>Radwell Mill and shortly
+afterwards enters Bedfordshire.</p>
+
+<p>9. <i>The Lea</i> is the largest river in Hertfordshire. It rises near
+Leagrave (in Bedfordshire) and flows through the county from N.W. to
+S.E. Entering Hertfordshire at Hide Mill, it flows past Wheathampstead,
+Hatfield, Hertford, Ware, and, leaving the county near Waltham Abbey,
+enters the Thames at Blackwall. Its entire length is about 50 miles. The
+waterway known as the <i>Lea and Stort Navigation</i> is navigable to
+Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford.</p>
+
+<p>10. <i>The Maran</i>, or <i>Mimram</i>, rises in the parish of King&rsquo;s Walden,
+skirts Whitwell on the N., running parallel with the village street, and
+passing through Welwyn and near Tewin enters the Lea at Hertingfordbury.</p>
+
+<p>11. <i>The Purwell</i>, or <i>Pirall</i>, rises in the parish of Ippollits and
+passing W. of Great Wymondley runs to Purwell Mill, and joins the Hiz at
+Grove Mill.</p>
+
+<p>12. <i>The Quin</i> rises in the neighbourhood of Wyddial, and passing
+Quinbury, unites with the Rib at Braughing.</p>
+
+<p>13. <i>The Rhee</i>, rising a little E. of Ashwell, has but a few miles to
+flow before it enters Cambridgeshire.</p>
+
+<p>14. <i>The Rib</i> rises at Corney Bury, flows E. of Buntingford, thence
+turning W. it flows under the bridge at the <i>Adam and Eve</i>, runs to
+Westmill, Standon and Thundridge, finally uniting with the Lea at
+Hertford.</p>
+
+<p>15. <i>The Stort</i> enters Hertfordshire from Essex <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a>[Pg&nbsp;10]</span>at a point near Cannon
+Wood Mill, and after passing through Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford forms the
+extreme E. boundary of the county for some distance before quitting it
+near Cheshunt.</p>
+
+<p>16. <i>The Ver</i> rises near Flamstead, is crossed by the Dunstable Road,
+N.W. of Redbourn, then recrossed by it. It then skirts St. Albans on the
+S. and joins the Colne near Park Street.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to the cutting of the <i>Lea and Stort Navigation</i> already
+mentioned, there are other artificial waterways:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><i>The Aylesbury Canal</i> (a branch of the Grand Junction Canal) crosses the
+extreme western neck of the county, from S. of Puttenham to S. of
+Gubblecote.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo004" name="illo004"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo004.jpg"
+      alt="GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING"
+      title="GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING"
+      height="419" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING<br />
+<i>The highest water level in England</i></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>The Grand Junction Canal</i> is largely utilised by barges traversing the
+W. of Hertfordshire. It is conspicuous at Rickmansworth, Boxmoor, and
+Berkhampstead; it enters Bedfordshire near Marsworth Reservoir.</p>
+
+<p><i>The New River</i> was constructed by Sir Hugh Myddelton, a London
+goldsmith, in 1609-13, and is largely fed by springs at Chadwell near
+Hertford. Its course in Hertfordshire is mostly close to and parallel
+with that of the Lea. The New River caused the financial ruin of its
+projector; one of its shares is now worth a large fortune. The whole
+story of this undertaking is very interesting; but as the New River was
+cut in order to bring water to London that story belongs to a volume on
+Middlesex.</p>
+
+
+<h3><a name="IntroIII" id="IntroIII"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a>[Pg&nbsp;11]</span>III. <span class="smcap">Climate</span></h3>
+
+<p>The chief elements of climate are temperature and rainfall. A general
+idea of the mean temperature and rainfall of Hertfordshire, both monthly
+and annual, may be gained from an inspection of Bartholomew&rsquo;s <i>Atlas of
+Meteorology</i> (1899). From that work it appears that the mean annual
+temperature of the county, if reduced to sea-level (that is, the
+theoretical mean for its position) would be 50&deg; or a little above it,
+but that the actual mean varies from 46&deg;-48&deg; on the Chiltern Hills to
+48&deg;-50&deg; in the rest and much the greater part of Hertfordshire; also
+that the mean annual rainfall is between 25 and 30 inches, the latter
+amount only being approached towards the Chilterns. Thus altitude is
+seen to have a great effect on both these elements of climate.</p>
+
+<p>Hertfordshire is hilly though not mountainous, a great extent of its
+surface being considerably elevated above sea-level, with a general
+south-easterly inclination; it has a dry soil; is well watered with
+numerous rivers of clear water&mdash;already enumerated&mdash;chiefly derived from
+springs in the Chalk; is well but not too densely wooded; and its
+atmosphere is not contaminated by manufacturing towns. It thus maintains
+the reputation for salubrity which it gained more than three centuries
+ago, our earliest county historian, Norden, remarking on the &ldquo;salutarie&rdquo;
+nature of the &ldquo;aire&rdquo;.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a>[Pg&nbsp;12]</span>Observations taken at the following meteorological stations during the
+twelve years 1887 to 1898 have been printed annually in the
+<i>Transactions of the Hertfordshire Natural History Society</i>, and a brief
+summary of some of the chief results will here be given.</p>
+
+<p><i>Royston</i> (London Road): lat. 52&deg; 2&acute; 34&acute;&acute; N.; long. 0&deg; 1&acute; 8&acute;&acute; W.; alt.
+301 feet; observer, the late Hale Wortham, F.R.Met.Soc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Berkhampstead</i> (Rosebank): lat. 51&deg; 45&acute; 40&acute;&acute; N.; long. 0&deg; 33&acute; 30&acute;&acute; W.;
+alt. 400 feet; observer, Edward Mawley, F.R.Met.Soc.</p>
+
+<p><i>St. Albans</i> (The Grange): lat. 51&deg; 45&acute; 9&acute;&acute; N.; long. 0&deg; 20&acute; 7&acute;&acute; W.;
+alt. 380 feet; observer, John Hopkinson, Assoc.Inst.C.E.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bennington</i> (Bennington House): lat. 51&deg; 53&acute; 45&acute;&acute; N.; long. 0&deg; 20&acute; 7&acute;&acute;
+W.; alt. 407 feet; observer, Rev. Dr. Parker, F.R.Met.Soc.</p>
+
+<p><i>New Barnet</i> (Gas Works): lat. 51&deg; 38&acute; 5&acute;&acute; N.; long. 0&deg; 10&acute; 15&acute;&acute; W.;
+alt. 212 feet; observer, T. H. Martin, M.Inst.C.E.</p>
+
+<p>1. <i>Temperature.</i>&mdash;The mean temperature of Hertfordshire, as deduced
+from the above observations, is 48.3&deg;. It has varied from 47.0&deg; in 1887
+to 50.2&deg; in 1898. The mean daily range is 15.9&deg;. It was the least
+(14.2&deg;) in 1888, and the greatest (18.1&deg;) in 1893. The mean temperature
+of the seasons is as follows: spring 46.6&deg;, summer 60.2&deg;, autumn 49.2&deg;,
+winter 37.2&deg;. The warmest month is July, with a mean temperature of
+61.0&deg;; the coldest is January, with a mean of 36.1&deg;. August is very
+little colder than July. In these two <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a>[Pg&nbsp;13]</span>months only has the temperature
+never been below freezing-point (32&deg;). In December and January only has
+it never exceeded 62&deg;. It increases most rapidly during the month of
+May, and decreases most rapidly during September and October.</p>
+
+<p>2. <i>Humidity.</i>&mdash;The relative humidity of the air, that is the amount of
+moisture it contains short of complete saturation which is represented
+by 100, is, at 9 <span class="smcap lowercase">A.M.</span>, 82. It has varied from 78 in 1893 to 85
+in 1888 and 1889. The air is much drier in spring and summer (78 and 75)
+than it is in autumn and winter (86 and 89). There is the least amount
+of moisture in the air from April to August (74 to 78), and the greatest
+from November to January (90).</p>
+
+<p>3. <i>Cloud.</i>&mdash;The mean amount of cloud at 9 <span class="smcap lowercase">A.M.</span>, from 0 (clear
+sky) to 10 (completely overcast), is 6.7. It has varied from 6.0 in 1893
+to 7.4 in 1888. Spring, summer, and autumn are about equally cloudy (6.5
+to 6.6), and winter is considerably more so (7.2). The sky at 9
+<span class="smcap lowercase">A.M.</span> is brightest in September (6.0) and most cloudy in
+November and January (7.5).</p>
+
+<p>4. <i>Sunshine.</i>&mdash;At Berkhampstead only have records of bright sunshine
+been taken for the whole of the twelve years. Throughout the year the
+sun shines brightly there for nearly four hours a day (3.9). The average
+duration in spring is 5.0, in summer 5.8, in autumn 3.2, and in winter
+1.6. The duration is least in December and greatest in May; the sun
+shining for rather more than an hour a day in December <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></a>[Pg&nbsp;14]</span>and nearly six
+hours and a half in May. An apparent discrepancy between this and the
+preceding section is due to a bright day often following a cloudy
+morning and <i>vice vers&acirc;</i>.</p>
+
+<p>5. <i>Wind.</i>&mdash;The prevailing direction of the wind, as recorded at
+Berkhampstead, St. Albans and Bennington, is from S.W. (sixty-one days
+in the year) to W. (sixty-two days), and the next most frequent winds
+are N. to N.E. and S. (each about thirty-seven days). The least frequent
+are S.E. (twenty-five days). About forty-four days in the year are
+recorded as calm.</p>
+
+<p>6. <i>Rainfall.</i>&mdash;Twelve years is much too short a period to give a
+trustworthy mean for such a variable element of climate as rainfall, and
+five stations are much too few to deduce an average from for
+Hertfordshire. The average rainfall at a varying number of stations for
+the sixty years 1840 to 1899 (from one station in the first decade of
+this period to twenty stations in the last decade) was 26.15 inches. In
+the driest year (1854) 17.67 inches fell, and in the wettest (1852)
+37.57 inches. Spring has 5.40 inches, summer 6.97, autumn 7.87, and
+winter 5.91. The driest months are February and March, each with a mean
+of 1.65 inch; April is but very little wetter, having 1.69. The wettest
+month is October, with 2.96 inches, and the next is November with 2.56.
+The mean number of days of rain in the year, that is of days on which at
+least 0.01 inch fell, for the thirty years 1870-99, was 167. Autumn and
+winter have each about six more wet days than <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a>[Pg&nbsp;15]</span>spring and summer. The
+rainfall is greatly affected by the form of the ground, the southern and
+western hills attracting the rain, which chiefly comes from the S.W., so
+greatly that with a mean annual fall of about 26 inches there is a
+difference of 3&frac12; inches between that of the river-basin of the Colne on
+the W. and that of the river-basin of the Lea on the E., the former
+having 28 inches and the latter 24&frac12;. The small portion of the
+river-basin of the Great Ouse which is within our area has rather less
+rain than the average for the county.</p>
+
+
+<h3><a name="IntroIV" id="IntroIV"></a>IV. <span class="smcap">Flora and Fauna</span></h3>
+
+<p>In his <i>Cybele Britannica</i>, H. C. Watson divided Britain into eighteen
+botanical provinces of which the Thames and the Ouse occupy the whole of
+the S.E. of England. The greater part of Hertfordshire is in the Thames
+province and a small portion in the N. is in that of the Ouse.</p>
+
+<p>In Pryor&rsquo;s <i>Flora of Hertfordshire</i>, published by the Hertfordshire
+Natural History Society in 1887, which should be referred to for full
+information on the botany of the county, these botanical provinces are
+again divided into districts, the Ouse into (1) Cam, (2) Ivel; and the
+Thames into (3) Thame, (4) Colne, (5) Brent, (6) Lea; both the larger
+provinces and the smaller districts thus being founded on the natural
+divisions of a country, drainage areas or catchment basins.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a>[Pg&nbsp;16]</span>In the following brief notes a few of the rarer or more interesting
+flowering plants of each district are enumerated.</p>
+
+<p>1. <i>The Cam.</i>&mdash;This is the most northern district. It is almost entirely
+on the Chalk and is very bare of trees. The few plants which are
+restricted to it are very rare. A meadow-rue, <i>Thalictrum Jacquinianum</i>,
+and the cat&rsquo;s foot (<i>Antennaria dioica</i>) occur only on Royston and
+Therfield Heaths; <i>Alisma ranunculoides</i> and <i>Potamogeton coloratus</i>
+only on Ashwell Common; and of the great burnet (<i>Poterium officinale</i>)
+the sole record is that of a plant gathered near Ashwell in 1840.</p>
+
+<p>2. <i>The Ivel.</i>&mdash;This district is S.W. of that of the Cam, and the Chalk
+Downs of that district are continued through it. Its rarer plants are
+<i>Melampyrum arvense</i>, which occurs only in one spot S. of Ashwell;
+<i>Smyrnium olusatrum</i>, which has been found near Baldock and Pirton; and
+<i>Silene conica</i>, which was found near Hitchin in 1875. The white
+helleborine (<i>Cephalanthera pallens</i>), the dwarf orchis (<i>Orchis
+ustulata</i>), and the musk orchis (<i>Herminium monorchis</i>) occur on the
+Chalk Downs.</p>
+
+<p>3. <i>The Thame.</i>&mdash;A very small tongue-like <a name="cm1" id="cm1"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr1"
+title="Original reads 'protusion'">protrusion</a> of the extreme
+W. of the county, in which are the Tring Reservoirs. Two of the species
+confined to the district, <i>Typha angustifolia</i> and <i>Potamogeton
+Friesii</i>, are water-plants which occur only in these reservoirs or in
+the canals which they supply. A rare poplar, <i>Populus canescens</i>, grows
+by the Wilstone reservoir<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a>[Pg&nbsp;17]</span>, and the man-orchis (<i>Aceras anthropophora</i>)
+on terraces cut in the Chalk near Tring.</p>
+
+<p>4. <i>The Colne.</i>&mdash;A large district, comprising almost the whole of the
+western portion of the county. <i>Diplotaxis tenuefolia</i>, <i>Silene nutans</i>,
+and <i>Hieracium murorum</i> grow only on old walls in St. Albans. Colney
+Heath is our only habitat for a very rare loosestrife, <i>Lythrum
+hyssopyfolium</i>, and also for <i>Teesdalia nudicaulis</i>, while there is but
+one other locality, a different one in each case, for four of its
+plants, <i>Radiola linoides</i>, <i>Centunculus minimus</i>, <i>Cuscuta epithymum</i>,
+and <i>Potamogeton acutifolius</i>. The pasque-flower (<i>Anemone pulsatilla</i>)
+grows abundantly on the Chalk slopes near Aldbury. The rarer orchids of
+the district are the bog-orchis (<i>Malaxis paludosa</i>), the narrow-leaved
+helleborine (<i>Cephalanthera ensifolia</i>), and the butterfly orchis
+(<i>Habenaria bifolia</i>).</p>
+
+<p>5. <i>The Brent.</i>&mdash;The smallest district, a <a name="cm2" id="cm2"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr2"
+title="Original reads 'protusion'">protrusion</a> of the county in
+the S. entirely on the London Clay, and chiefly interesting owing to the
+presence of Totteridge Green and its ponds. In these ponds grow the
+great spearwort (<i>Ranunculus lingua</i>) and the sweet-flag (<i>Acorus
+calamus</i>), the former, however, not being indigenous. The star-fruit
+(<i>Damasonium stellatum</i>) formerly grew on Totteridge Green, and
+<i>Chenopodium glaucum</i> at Totteridge, but neither has lately been seen.</p>
+
+<p>6. <i>The Lea.</i>&mdash;The largest district, comprising the whole of the E. of
+the county. The London rocket (<i>Sisymbrium irio</i>) occurs only in the old
+towns of Hertford and Ware; the true <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>[Pg&nbsp;18]</span>oxlip (<i>Primula elatior</i>) near the
+head of the River Stort; a very rare broom-rape, <i>Orobanche c&aelig;rulea</i>, at
+Hoddesdon, where it is parasitic on the milfoil; and an almost equally
+rare bedstraw, <i>Galium anglicum</i>, on an old wall of Brocket Park. A rare
+trefoil, <i>Trifolium glomeratum</i>, is known only at Easneye near Ware; and
+Hatfield Park is our only locality for the water-soldier (<i>Stratiotes
+aloides</i>) except where it has evidently been planted. Two species,
+usually of rare occurrence, <i>Polygonum dumetorum</i> and <i>Apera
+spica-venta</i>, are frequent in the district.</p>
+
+<p>The indigenous flowering plants of Hertfordshire number 893 species, 679
+being Dicotyledons and 214 Monocotyledons. If to these be added 199
+aliens, etc., the total number of species recorded is brought up to
+1,092. The flora is essentially of a southern type, the northern species
+being few in number. Owing to the dry soil, xerophiles largely prevail
+over hygrophiles.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Ferns</i> and their allies the horsetails and clubmosses are not well
+represented, both the soil and the air of the county being too dry for
+them. Another cause for the present scarcity of ferns is the proximity
+of Hertfordshire to London, for they have been uprooted and taken there
+for sale in cart-loads. We have twenty-four species of ferns and
+fern-allies, but not one really rare. The principal varieties are
+<i>Scolopendrium vulgare</i>, var. <i>multifidum</i>; <i>Athyrium <a name="cm3" id="cm3"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr3"
+title="Original reads 'filixf&oelig;mina'">filixf&aelig;mina</a></i>,
+var. <i>convexum</i>; and <i>Polypodium vulgare</i>, var. <i>serratum</i>. <i>Equisetum
+silvaticum</i> is <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a>[Pg&nbsp;19]</span>our rarest horsetail; and our only clubmoss is
+<i>Lycopodium clavatum</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Mosses</i> are much better represented than the ferns, 175 species
+having been recorded. The bog-mosses are represented by six
+species&mdash;<i>Sphagnum intermedium</i>, <i>cuspidatum</i>, <i>subsecundum,
+acutifolium</i>, <i>squarrosum</i>, and <i>cymbifolium</i>. <i>Tetraphis pellucida</i>
+occurs in Sherrard&rsquo;s Park Wood, and <i>Polytrichum urnigerum</i> in Hitch
+Wood. <i>Seligeria pusilla</i> has been found in an old chalk-pit in Brocket
+Park, and <i>S. paucifolia</i> on chalk nodules in the Tunnel Woods near
+Watford. <i>Campylopus pyriforme</i> occurs in Berry Grove Wood, Aldenham,
+and <i>C. flexuosus</i> in Dawley&rsquo;s Wood, Tewin.</p>
+
+<p>Of <i>the Liverworts</i> (<i>Hepatic&aelig;</i>) forty-four species are known to occur;
+and the Stoneworts (<i>Charace&aelig;</i>) are represented by seven species&mdash;two of
+<i>Chara</i>, two of <i>Tolypella</i>, and three of <i>Nitella</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Alg&aelig;</i> have been pretty fully investigated, especially the
+<i>Diatomace&aelig;</i>, of the 252 species of Alg&aelig; known to occur in the county,
+156 belonging to that interesting family of microscopic plants. As an
+illustration of their minute size it may be mentioned that a single drop
+of water from the saucer of a flower-pot at Hertford, mounted as a
+microscopic slide, was found to contain 200,000 separate frustules of
+<i>Achnanthes subsessilis</i>, and it was estimated that these occupied only
+one twenty-fifth part of the drop. Both species of <i>Chlamidococcus</i> (the
+old genus <i>Protococcus</i>), <i>C. pluvialis</i> and <i>C. nivalis</i> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a>[Pg&nbsp;20]</span>occur; and
+the pretty <i>Volvox globator</i> has frequently been found.</p>
+
+<p>Of <i>the Lichens</i> much less is known, only sixty-seven species having
+been recorded. The most noteworthy are <i>Calicium melanoph&aelig;um</i>, found on
+fir-trees in Bricket Wood; <i>Peltigera polydactyla</i>, on moss-covered
+ground in Oxhey Woods, Watford; <i>Lecanora phlogina</i>, in the Tunnel
+Woods, Watford; and <i>Pertusaria globulifera</i>, on trees in the same woods
+and also in Bricket Wood. As woods in the vicinity of Hertford and of
+Watford only have been searched for lichens, our list ought to be
+largely increased by investigation in other parts of the county.</p>
+
+<p>Of <i>the Fungi</i> our chief knowledge is derived from lists of species
+collected at Fungus Forays of the Hertfordshire Natural History Society
+and from records of the Mycetozoa by Mr. James Saunders. The number of
+species recorded for the county is 735, of which fifty-eight are
+&ldquo;myxies&rdquo;. Of the Hymenomycetes, or mushroom-like fungi, some very
+noteworthy finds have been made, nearly all at Forays of the county
+society. They include two species new to Britain, <i>viz.</i>, <i>Agaricus
+(Nolania) nigripes</i>, found in Aldenham Woods, Watford, and <i>Ag.
+(Hypholoma) violacea-ater</i>, in Gorhambury Park, St. Albans (by the
+present writer). Hertfordshire has also furnished the second British
+records for <i>Ag. (Lepiota) gliodermus</i> (Broxbourne Woods), <i>Ag.
+(Leptonia) euochrous</i> (Ashridge Woods), <i>Ag. (Psathyrella) aratus</i>
+(Sherrard&rsquo;s Park, Welwyn), and <i>Paxillus Alexandri</i> (Hatfield <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a>[Pg&nbsp;21]</span>Park),
+this species having first been recorded from Hatfield Park, Essex; and
+the second and third British record for <i>Agaricus (Clytocybe) Sadleri</i>
+(Ashridge Park and Cassiobury Park). The very rare <i>Strombilomyces
+strombilaceus</i> has been found in Grove Park, Watford, and the still
+rarer <i>Peziza luteo-nitens</i> on the Chalk slopes between Aldbury and
+Ashridge Park. Lastly it may be mentioned that Mr. Saunders added the
+&ldquo;myxie&rdquo; <i>Physarum citrinum</i> to the British fungus-flora from specimens
+found by him at Caddington and Welwyn.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Birds</i> of Hertfordshire have been carefully observed, and the
+appearance of rare visitors has been duly recorded. At a lecture
+delivered at St. Albans in 1902, Mr. Alan F. Crossman, F.L.S., F.Z.S.,
+stated that 212 species had been known to visit the county, and
+mentioned, <i>inter alia</i>, that the kingfisher is more numerous in
+Hertfordshire than formerly, that the heron nested in the county for the
+first time in 1901, and that the appearance of the bearded titmouse had
+been noticed on but three occasions. During the last forty years the
+following birds, among others, have been noticed as occasional
+visitants: the storm-petrel (<i>Procellaria pelagica</i>), golden oriole
+(<i>Oriolus galbula</i>), whooper-swan (<i>Cygnus musicus</i>), snow-bunting
+(<i>Plectrophanes nivalis</i>), greater spotted woodpecker (<i>Picus major</i>),
+black tern (<i>Hydrochelidon nigra</i>), great northern diver (<i>Colymbus
+glacialis</i>), herring-gull (<i>Larus argentatus</i>), cormorant
+(<i>Phalacrocorax carbo</i>), tufted duck (<i>Fuligula cristata</i>), hoopoe
+(<i>Upopa epops</i>), <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>[Pg&nbsp;22]</span>crossbill (<i>Loxia curvirostra</i>), sheldrake (<i>Tadorna
+cornuta</i>), <a name="cm4a" id="cm4a"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr4a"
+title="Original reads 'Guillemot'">guillemot</a> (<i>Lornvia troile</i>), Pallas&rsquo; sandgrouse (<i>Syrrhaptes
+paradoxus</i>), rock thrush (<i>Monticola saxatilis</i>), black redstart
+(<i>Ruticilla titys</i>), Dartford warbler (<i>Silvia undata</i>), grasshopper
+warbler (<i>Locustella <a name="cm4b" id="cm4b"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr4b"
+title="Original reads 'n&oelig;via'">n&aelig;via</a></i>), waxwing (<i>Ampelis garrulus</i>), twite
+(<i>Linota flavirostris</i>), hen harrier (<i>Circus cyaneus</i>), buzzard (<i>Buteo
+vulgaris</i>), redshank (<i>Totanus calidris</i>), greenshank (<i>Totanus
+cunescens</i>) and the little auk (<i>Mergulus alle</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The lapwing is thought to be increasing in numbers; the writer
+frequently observed considerable flocks during his recent rambles in the
+county. Finches are perhaps as numerous in Hertfordshire as in any other
+county of equal size; the large flocks of hen chaffinches that haunt the
+farmyards in winter being quite a notable feature. The goldfinch, it is
+to be feared, is rapidly becoming scarcer; as are also the jay, the
+woodcock and other birds much more numerous a few years back. Fieldfares
+and redwings visit the county in great numbers from the N. during the
+winter; one morning in the winter of 1886 the writer saw many thousands
+of fieldfares pass over St. Albans from the direction of Luton. The
+redwing, being largely insectivorous, is often picked up dead in the
+fields when the frost is unusually severe and food proportionally
+difficult to obtain.</p>
+
+<p>The presence of many woods and small streams attracts a good proportion
+of the smaller English migrants; the nightingale and the cuckoo are
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a>[Pg&nbsp;23]</span>heard almost throughout the county. Moorhens, coots and dabchicks are
+abundant; the reed-sparrow is heard only in a few districts. Titmice,
+great, blue and long-tailed, are well distributed.</p>
+
+
+<h3><a name="IntroV" id="IntroV"></a>V. <span class="smcap">Population</span></h3>
+
+<p>Comparatively little peculiar to the county is known of the early
+inhabitants of Hertfordshire. They seem from the earliest times to have
+been scattered over the county in many small groups, rather than to have
+concentrated at a few centres. Singularly enough, this almost uniform
+dispersion of population is still largely maintained, for, unlike so
+many other counties, Hertfordshire has not within its borders a single
+large town. The larger among them, <i>i.e.</i>, Watford, St. Albans, Hitchin,
+Hertford and Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford, are not collectively equal in
+population to even such towns as Bolton, Halifax or Croydon. Another
+feature to be noted is that, owing to the county&rsquo;s proximity to London,
+it is now the home of persons of many nations and tongues, and only in
+the smaller villages between the railroads are there left any traits of
+local character or peculiarities of idiom. It is hardly necessary to say
+that this conglomeration of peoples is common to all the home counties,
+though mostly so, as I venture to think, in Hertfordshire and Surrey.
+The Essex peasant is still strongly differentiated from his neighbours.</p>
+
+<p>Grose, writing towards the end of the eighteenth century, stated that
+the population <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a>[Pg&nbsp;24]</span>of Hertfordshire was 95,000. They must have been well
+dispersed, for he tells us that the county contained at that period 949
+villages; by the word &ldquo;village,&rdquo; however, he seems to mean any separate
+community, including small hamlets. Some interesting figures are to be
+found in Tymms&rsquo;s <i>Compendium of the History of the Home Circuit</i>. He
+states that in 1821 the county contained 129,714 inhabitants, comprising
+26,170 families and living in 23,687 houses. Of these families no fewer
+than 13,485 were engaged in agriculture. From the same source I quote
+the following figures relating to the year 1821:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table summary="Numbers of houses and inhabitants">
+<tr><td></td><td class="toright">Houses.</td><td class="toright">  Inhabitants.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Hemel Hempstead         </td><td class="toright">1,012</td><td class="toright">       5,193</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Watford                 </td><td class="toright">  940</td><td class="toright">       4,713</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Hitchin                 </td><td class="toright">  915</td><td class="toright">       4,486</td></tr>
+<tr><td>St. Albans              </td><td class="toright">  735</td><td class="toright">       4,472</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Cheshunt                </td><td class="toright">  847</td><td class="toright">       4,376</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Hertford                </td><td class="toright">  656</td><td class="toright">       4,265</td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<p>In 1881 the population of the county was 203,069; in 1891 it had
+increased by about one-eleventh to 220,162; in 1921 it was 333,236.</p>
+
+<p>In the days of William I. the whole of the possessions and estates of
+Hertfordshire belonged to the King and forty-four persons who shared his
+favour, amongst whom may be mentioned the Archbishop of Canterbury, the
+Bishops of London, Winchester, Chester, Bayeux and Liseux, and the
+Abbots of Westminster, Ely, St. Albans, Charteris and Ramsey.</p>
+
+<p>To go as far back as the Heptarchy, we find <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a>[Pg&nbsp;25]</span>the land mostly owned by
+Mercians, East Saxons and by the Kings of Kent, and thus there gradually
+sprang up that &ldquo;Middle English&rdquo; population which for so long formed a
+large proportion of the inhabitants of Hertfordshire, Middlesex and
+Essex. How thoroughly such persons separated into small communities and
+settled down in every part of the county may be ascertained by the many
+&ldquo;buries&rdquo; found at a little distance from the town or
+village&mdash;Redbourn-bury, Ardeley-bury, Bayford-bury, Langley-bury,
+Harpenden-bury, etc.</p>
+
+
+<h3><a name="IntroVI" id="IntroVI"></a>VI. <span class="smcap">Communications</span></h3>
+
+<p>1. <i>Roads.</i>&mdash;Hertfordshire, as one of the home-counties, is crossed by
+many fine roads from the N.E., E. and N.W., as they gradually converge
+towards their common goal&mdash;London. Among them may be mentioned the Old
+North Road, from Royston through Buntingford and Ware to Waltham Cross;
+the Great North Road from Baldock through Stevenage, Welwyn and Hatfield
+to Barnet; and the Dunstable Road through Market Street, Redbourn and
+St. Albans, which meets the last-mentioned road at Barnet.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnnum">[1]</a> We may
+contrast these roads at the present day with the rough paths infested
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a>[Pg&nbsp;26]</span>with robbers existing in the days when the country between Barnet and
+St. Albans was little better than a continuous, tangled forest; or even
+with the same roads in the days when Evelyn and Pepys frequently rode
+along them&mdash;and found them exceedingly bad. The cyclist wishing to ride
+northwards through Hertfordshire has comparatively stiff hills to mount
+at Elstree, High Barnet, Ridge, near South Mimms, and at St. Albans. He
+should also beware of the descent into Wheathampstead, of the dip
+between Bushey and Watford, and of the gritty roadways in the
+neighbourhood of Baldock. Most of the roads are well kept, particularly
+since they have been cared for by the County Council, and the
+traveller&rsquo;s book at the inn usually contains fewer anathemas touching
+the state of the highways than in some other counties which might be
+named.</p>
+
+<p><i>Railways.</i>&mdash;Few counties in England are so well served with railroad
+communications; the London and North Western, Midland, Great Northern
+and Great Eastern running well across its face.</p>
+
+<p><i>The London and North Western</i> enters the county &frac12; mile N.W. of Pinner,
+and has stations on its main route at Bushey, Watford, King&rsquo;s Langley,
+Boxmoor, Berkhampstead and Tring. It crosses the Bedfordshire border
+near Ivinghoe. From Watford it has a branch to Rickmansworth; and to
+Bricket Wood, Park Street and St. Albans; it has also a station at
+Marston Gate, on its branch line to Aylesbury.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a>[Pg&nbsp;27]</span><i>The Midland</i> enters the county during its passage through the Elstree
+tunnel and runs nearly due N., having stations at Elstree, Radlett, St.
+Albans and Harpenden. It has also a branch with stations at Hemel
+Hempstead and Redbourn.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Great Northern</i> main line crosses a small tongue of the county upon
+which it has stations at Oakleigh Park and New Barnet. It then traverses
+the Hadley Wood district of Middlesex, entering Hertfordshire again at
+Warren Gate, and has stations at Hatfield, Welwyn, Knebworth, Stevenage
+and Hitchin. From Hatfield it has three branches: (1) to Smallford and
+St. Albans; (2) to Ayot, Wheathampstead and Harpenden; (3) to Cole
+Green, Hertingfordbury and Hertford. At Hitchin it has a branch to
+Baldock, Ashwell and Royston.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Great Eastern</i> enters the county at Waltham Cross and skirts the
+whole of the S.E. quarter, running on Essex soil from near the Rye House
+almost to Sawbridgeworth. It has stations in Hertfordshire at Waltham
+Cross, Cheshunt, Broxbourne, Sawbridgeworth and Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford. It
+enters Essex again near the last-named station. It has also important
+branches, (1) from Broxbourne to Rye House, St. Margaret&rsquo;s, Ware, and
+Hertford; (2) from St. Margaret&rsquo;s to Mardock, Widford, Hadham, Standon,
+Braughing, West Mill and Buntingford.</p>
+
+<p>In addition, the Metropolitan Railway has an extension which crosses the
+S.W. extremity <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a>[Pg&nbsp;28]</span>of the county, having stations at Rickmansworth and
+Chorley Wood. The Great Northern Railway has a branch from Finsbury Park
+to High Barnet, with a station at Totteridge.</p>
+
+
+<h3><a name="IntroVII" id="IntroVII"></a>VII. <span class="smcap">Industries</span></h3>
+
+<p>1. <i>Agriculture.</i>&mdash;Charles Lamb used no mere haphazard expression when
+he wrote of Hertfordshire as &ldquo;that fine corn county&rdquo;. Forty years ago
+the county contained 339,187 acres under arable cultivation, of which
+considerably more than half were utilised for corn; and the proportion
+thus used is still much larger than might be supposed. (In 1897 it
+amounted to about 125,000 acres.) At the same period there were about
+60,000 acres under wheat alone; for this grain, of which a large white
+variety is much cultivated, the county has long been famous. To this
+circumstance the village of Wheathampstead is indebted for its name.
+Barley and oats are also staple crops. The first Swede turnips ever
+produced in England were grown on a farm near Berkhampstead. Watercress
+is extensively cultivated, enormous quantities being sent into London
+from St. Albans, Hemel Hempstead, Berkhampstead, Welwyn and many other
+districts. Much manure is brought to the farms from the London stables,
+and by its aid large second crops of vegetables are frequently obtained.
+Clover, turnips and tares <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a>[Pg&nbsp;29]</span>may be mentioned among other crops
+prominently cultivated. Fruit is also sent to London, particularly from
+the district lying between Tring, Watford and St. Albans, but none of
+the orchards are large.</p>
+
+<p>The number of pigs reared in the county is&mdash;or was quite
+recently&mdash;rather above the average (per 100 acres under cultivation) for
+all England; the number of cattle rather below, and of sheep much below,
+this average.</p>
+
+<p>2. <i>Manufactures</i> are fairly numerous.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>a</i>) <i>Straw Plait</i> has for over 200 years been extensively made by hand
+for the Luton dealers. The wages earned by peasant girls and women in
+this employment were formerly high; 100 years ago a woman, if dexterous,
+might earn as much as &pound;1 a week, but the increase in machinery and the
+competition from foreign plait has almost destroyed this cottage
+industry in some districts. During the last four decades several large
+straw hat manufactories have been erected in St. Albans, and the trade
+enlarged, although the conditions of production are altered.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Malting</i> is still extensively carried on at Ware, which has been
+the centre of the industry for many years; it is said, indeed, to be the
+largest malting town in England. There are nearly 100 malting houses,
+many of them being beside the River Lea, navigable from this town for
+barges W. to Hertford and S. to London. There are extensive <i>Breweries</i>
+at St. Albans, Watford, Hertford, High Barnet, Baldock, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a>[Pg&nbsp;30]</span>Hitchin,
+Hatfield, Tring, Berkhampstead, and other places.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>c</i>) <i>Brick Fields</i> are worked at Watford, St. Albans, Hemel Hempstead,
+Broxbourne, Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford, Hitchin and elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>d</i>) <i>Brushes</i> of many kinds are manufactured at St. Albans and
+Berkhampstead.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>e</i>) <i>Hurdles</i> are made at Barkway, Croxley Green, Breachwood Green,
+Chorley Wood, Albury, and at one or two other places.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>f</i>) <i>Iron Foundries</i> are at Hertford, Ippollitts, Royston, Colne
+Valley (Watford), Hitchin and Puckeridge.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>g</i>) <i>Paper</i> is made at Croxley Mills, King&rsquo;s Langley, and Nash Mills.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>h</i>) <i>Silk</i> is made at the large mill on the River Ver, St. Albans, and
+at Redbourn.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>i</i>) <i>Photographic plates</i>, <i>paper</i>, etc., are made at Watford, Boreham
+Wood and Barnet.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>j</i>) <i>Lavender Water</i> is made at Hitchin, from lavender grown in fields
+close by.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gravel</i> abounds in many districts, and pits are extensively worked at
+Rickmansworth, Hertford and at Heath, Wheathampstead, Watford and
+Harpenden.</p>
+
+<p>There are <i>windmills</i> at Cromer, Albury, Goff&rsquo;s Oak, Anstey, Arkley,
+Much Hadham, Weston, Tring and Bushey Heath. <i>Water mills</i> are too
+numerous to specify, there being several on many of the small rivers
+named in Section II.</p>
+
+
+<h3><a name="IntroVIII" id="IntroVIII"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a>[Pg&nbsp;31]</span>VIII. <span class="smcap">History</span></h3>
+
+<p>Hertfordshire was formerly a part of Mercia and of Essex. Its share in
+what is usually called &ldquo;History&rdquo; can hardly be called great; but many
+interesting details of its story are recorded in the histories of
+Chauncy, Salmon, Clutterbuck, and Cussans. Among smaller works the
+following will be found useful: Cobb&rsquo;s <i>Berkhampstead</i>; Gibbs&rsquo;
+<i>Historical Records of St. Albans</i>; Nicholson&rsquo;s <i>Abbey of St. Albans</i>;
+Bishop&rsquo;s <i>Hitchin and Neighbourhood</i>, and <i>Bygone Hertfordshire</i> by
+various writers.</p>
+
+<p>The story of Hertfordshire may be said to commence with the sack of the
+great Roman city of <i>Verulamium</i> by the followers of Boadicea, Queen of
+the <a name="cm5" id="cm5"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr5"
+title="Original reads 'Icene'">Iceni</a> (<span class="smcap lowercase">A.D.</span> 61). Our knowledge of the event is largely
+drawn from Tacitus, and Dion Cassius, who give revolting details of the
+torture of the inhabitants by the Britons. The martyrdom of St. Alban
+(<i>circa</i> <span class="smcap lowercase">A.D.</span> 304) the Synod of Verulam (429), the second
+destruction of that city by the Saxons towards the end of the sixth
+century and the siege of Hertford by the Danes in 896, when Alfred the
+Great grounded their vessels by cutting the river banks, are some of the
+more prominent episodes of pre-Conquest times. William I., entering the
+county from the direction of Wallingford, met the Saxon nobles in
+council at Berkhampstead immediately before his coronation at
+Westminster. The castles of Hertford and Berkhampstead <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>[Pg&nbsp;32]</span>were captured by
+the revolted barons.</p>
+
+<p>There was a dangerous insurrection of the peasantry in the days of
+Richard II. Three important battles were fought in Hertfordshire, during
+the Wars of the Roses: (1) At St. Albans on 23rd (?) May, 1455; (2) on
+Bernard&rsquo;s Heath, St. Albans, 17th February, 1461; (3) near Chipping
+Barnet, 14th April, 1471; these battles are mentioned more fully in the
+Sections on St. Albans and Barnet.</p>
+
+<p>The residence of the Princess Elizabeth at Ashridge Park and her
+subsequent captivity at Hatfield up to the time of her accession (1558)
+may be here mentioned, but the more casual visits of monarchs are
+referred to as occasion requires.</p>
+
+<p>The county was not the scene of any considerable engagement during the
+great Rebellion; but the Parliamentary troops are held responsible for
+much ecclesiastical sacrilege at St. Albans, Hitchin and elsewhere, and
+it was from Theobalds that Charles I. set out to meet his army in 1642.
+In 1647, when a prisoner in the care of Cornet Joyce, he was taken from
+Leighton Buzzard to Baldock and from thence to Royston. The march of
+Cromwell from Cambridge to St. Albans towards the end of the war is
+recorded rather too literally on the interior of several churches.</p>
+
+<p>Of importance in history was the Rye House Plot (1683), a carefully laid
+but abortive scheme to murder Charles II. and James, Duke of York, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a>[Pg&nbsp;33]</span>on
+their way to London from Newmarket. (See <a href="#RyeHouse">Rye House</a>.)</p>
+
+
+<h3><a name="IntroIX" id="IntroIX"></a>IX. <span class="smcap">Antiquities</span></h3>
+
+<p>The antiquities of Hertfordshire have been carefully studied and well
+repay the labour that has been bestowed upon them. A few words under
+several heads will suffice to show that the subject is a large one.</p>
+
+<p>1. <i>Prehistoric.</i>&mdash;<i>Paleolithic</i> man&mdash;in whom we are all so interested,
+but of whom we know so little&mdash;must have dwelt in Hertfordshire for a
+long period, a period to be measured by centuries rather than by years.
+Perhaps, however, the word &ldquo;dwelt&rdquo; is hardly appropriate here; for
+doubtless, for the most part, the rude flint-shaper and skin-clad hunter
+roamed at random over this tract of land wherever necessity led him. It
+is usual to speak of him as a troglodyte, or cave-dweller, but the caves
+of Hertfordshire are, and probably <i>were</i> few, and his life in such a
+district would therefore be more than usually nomadic. As is often the
+case, we find traces of him in the river-valleys more frequently than
+elsewhere, and it is in beds of clay, conjectured to be of lacustrine
+origin, that we find those rudely shapen flint nodules which served him
+for tools. Such implements have been found in the Valley of the Gade by
+Sir John Evans, K.C.B.; in more central neighbourhoods by Mr.
+Worthington G. Smith; and many axes, knives, etc., were discovered <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></a>[Pg&nbsp;34]</span>only
+a few years ago near Hitchin. Implements of the <i>Neolithic</i> Age are
+naturally more numerous and form in themselves an interesting study in
+the evolution of manual skill. Flint axe-heads, wonderfully polished,
+have been found at Albury, Abbot&rsquo;s Langley, Panshanger and Ware; chipped
+flints of more fragmentary character have been found near St. Albans and
+elsewhere; flint arrow-heads were discovered at Tring Grove nearly 170
+years ago. The great number of natural flints found in the county make
+it very difficult to recognise these arch&aelig;ological treasures, many of
+which must thus escape detection and be destroyed. Some details of the
+discovery of Prehistoric implements are given in the Gazetteer.</p>
+
+<p>2. <i>Pre-Roman.</i>&mdash;The earliest inhabitants of Hertfordshire in times more
+or less &ldquo;historic&rdquo; were of Celtic blood; these, after a settlement of
+considerable duration, were driven out by Belgic invaders, of whom the
+Cassii, or Cateuchlani, seem to have been one of the most powerful
+tribes. The Cassii, who shared at least a part of the district with the
+Trinobantes, were numerous and war-like when C&aelig;sar invaded Britain;
+their chief, Cassivellaunus, is believed to have lived near what is now
+St. Albans. He was chosen as leader by the British, and offered stout
+resistance to the Romans, but was driven back and his capital&mdash;wherever
+it was&mdash;stormed and captured. Earth works, supposed to have been erected
+by these Pre-Roman inhabitants, still remain at Hexton, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a>[Pg&nbsp;35]</span>Ashwell, Great
+Wymondley, Tingley Wood, and elsewhere, but are rapidly disappearing in
+the general obliteration of ancient landmarks. Grymes-dyke, still to be
+traced on Berkhampstead Common, is the most famous; but many others are
+marked in a map prepared by Sir John Evans. Some of these are hardly
+more than conjectural sites; a few will be mentioned in the Gazetteer.
+Bronze Celts of many kinds are in the possession of Mr. W. Ransom,
+F.S.A.; some of these were found at Cumberlow Green. Relics of the
+Bronze Age in the county include two bracelets of gold found at Little
+Amwell; and many narrow hatchets, or palstaves, from the neighbourhood
+of Hitchin.</p>
+
+<p>To the Late Celtic Period belong the imperfect iron sword-blade, in a
+bronze sheath, discovered at Bourne End and now in the British Museum;
+also the two bronze helmets, one from the neighbourhood of Hitchin, and
+one from Tring. At Hitchin, too, was discovered some pottery of the same
+period.</p>
+
+<p>3. <i>Roman.</i>&mdash;Hertfordshire formed a part of the Flavia C&aelig;sariensis of
+the Romans&mdash;the district E. of the Severn and N. of the Thames. Most
+important of their stations was the municipium at Verulamium (W. of St.
+Albans) of which some fragments of wall yet remain in the neighbourhood
+of the River Ver and the Verulam Woods; here, too, is the site of the
+only Roman theatre known in Britain (of <i>amphitheatres</i> there are many
+remains). There were also stations at Cheshunt (Ceaster), at <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a>[Pg&nbsp;36]</span>Braughing
+(ad Fines), at Berkhampstead (Durocobrivis?), at Ashwell, Wilbury Hill,
+etc.; there was a cemetery at Sarratt; a sepulchre at Royston. Roman
+villas have been unearthed at Purwell Mill, Abbots Langley and Boxmoor.
+The Roman coins found in the county would, if brought together, form an
+exceedingly valuable collection. They have been found in considerable
+numbers at St. Albans, Ware, Hoddesdon, Hitchin, Willian, Ashwell,
+Caldecote, Boxmoor, and many other places. Small bronze coins, known as
+<i>minimi</i>, have been recently found at St. Albans, and are now in the
+city museum. They date from after the year 345, when the earliest
+specimens of this type were struck, and are conjectured to be copies of
+coins issued under Constantius II. (337-61) and Julian the Apostate
+(361-3). On the obverse is the &ldquo;Imperial Head&rdquo;; on the reverse a soldier
+striking with his spear at a man on horseback. The coins, however, are
+assigned by at least one numismatist to a later date. They may have
+issued from a Romano-British mint at Verulamium. The famous Watling
+Street entered the county at Elstree and crossed it by way of St. Albans
+and Redbourn to Dunstable (Beds); the Icknield Way ran N.W. through
+Ickleford, Baldock and Royston; Akeman Street passed through Watford,
+Berkhampstead and Tring; Ermine Street, entering Hertfordshire at
+Waltham, passed through Ware and Braughing to Royston.</p>
+
+<p>4. <i>Saxon.</i>&mdash;A few fragmentary remains at <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>[Pg&nbsp;37]</span>Berkhampstead, Bennington,
+Offley and Hitchin have been thought to mark the sites of the palaces of
+Mercian kings; but genuine Saxon remains are scarcely found except,
+perhaps, among the foundations of a few churches, <i>e.g.</i>, St. Michael&rsquo;s
+at St. Albans, Standon and Wheathampstead.</p>
+
+<p>Mention must however be made of the story, narrated in <i>Arch&aelig;ologia</i>, of
+the discovery of the sepulchre of St. Amphibalus at a spot near Redbourn
+called the &ldquo;Hills of the Banners&rdquo;. St. Alban himself appeared to a
+layman in a vision and told him where the saint&rsquo;s bones were to be
+found,&mdash;indeed, he is said to have himself gone thither to point out the
+spot. This was during the abbacy of Symon (1167-83). We learn from Roger
+of Wendover that the remains of St. Amphibalus were found lying between
+those of two other men; the bones of seven others were also lying close
+by. Among the relics found with the bones of the saint were two large
+knives, one of which was in his skull. We know that the holy relics were
+deemed worthy of solemn removal to the Abbey of St. Albans; his shrine
+there is mentioned in the Gazetteer.</p>
+
+<p>In the <i>Antiquary</i> (vol. xi.) mention is made of the supposed discovery
+of an Anglo-Saxon burial ground in a field near Sandridge. Many bones
+and some implements were unearthed, and pronounced by local experts to
+date from Saxon times. They were buried again by some ignorant person.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>[Pg&nbsp;38]</span>A bronze brooch, discovered at Boxmoor, has been assigned to &ldquo;the
+latest period of true Anglo-Saxon art&rdquo;. A gold ornament, resembling an
+armlet, was found at the village of Park Street, near St. Albans; it is
+thought to date from <span class="smcap lowercase">A.D.</span> 700-1000.</p>
+
+<p>5. <i>Churches.</i>&mdash;These will be separately mentioned in due order,
+especially St. Albans Abbey, the unique meeting ground of all Styles;
+but a few sentences touching the predominant periods may be permissible
+here:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><i>Norman</i> work is found in many places; Anstey, Bengeo, Barley, East
+Barnet, Graveley, Hemel Hempstead, Little Hormead, and Ickleford are
+largely of this period, and Norman features are mingled with later work
+at Abbots Langley, Baldock, Weston, Great Munden, Great Wymondley,
+Knebworth, Redbourn, Sarratt, and the churches of SS. Michael and
+Stephen at St. Albans. There are Norman fonts at Broxbourne, Bishop&rsquo;s
+Stortford (found beneath the flooring in 1869) Anstey, Buckland,
+Harpenden, Great Wymondley and Standon.</p>
+
+<p><i>Early English</i> churches are at Ashwell, Brent Pelham, Digswell,
+Furneaux Pelham, Great Munden (Norman doorway), Knebworth, Royston,
+Stevenage and Wheathampstead. Some of these, <i>e.g.</i>, Digswell and
+Knebworth, are pleasantly situated and others contain features of great
+interest, but on the whole they can hardly boast of much architectural
+beauty.</p>
+
+<p><i>Decorated</i> churches are rarely found without prominent transitional
+features, the purest structures <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a>[Pg&nbsp;39]</span>dating from that period being those at
+Flamstead, Hatfield, North Mimms, Standon, and Ware. Early Decorated
+portions are noticeable among Norman surroundings at Hemel Hempstead,
+and among Early English at Wheathampstead; Late Decorated is found with
+Perpendicular at Hitchin. Standon is the only W. porch in the county.
+Flamstead and Wheathampstead are the only churches in the county that
+have retained their original vestries, N. of the chancel.</p>
+
+<p><i>Perpendicular</i> churches are fairly numerous in Hertfordshire. Almost
+purely Perpendicular structures are those at Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford,
+Bennington, Broxbourne, Clothall, Hunsdon, King&rsquo;s Langley, Sandon, St.
+Peters (St. Albans), Tring and Watford. Churches later than
+Perpendicular cannot be mentioned as antiquities.</p>
+
+<p>A characteristic feature of Hertfordshire churches&mdash;rare elsewhere&mdash;is
+the narrow tapering <i>fl&egrave;che</i>, or leaded spire; a feature almost wholly
+absent is the apse, which is, I believe, present only at Bengeo, Great
+Wymondley, and Amwell.</p>
+
+
+<h3><a name="IntroX" id="IntroX"></a>X. <span class="smcap">Celebrated Men</span></h3>
+
+<p>Comparatively few really famous men have been born in Hertfordshire, but
+very many have resided in the county, or have at least been associated
+with it sufficiently to justify the mention of their names here.</p>
+
+<p>1. <i>Men of Letters.</i>&mdash;Chaucer was clerk of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a>[Pg&nbsp;40]</span>the works at Berkhampstead
+Castle in the time of Richard II.; Matthew Paris, the chronicler, lived
+and wrote in the great Benedictine monastery at St. Albans; Sir John
+Maundeville, once called the &ldquo;father of English prose,&rdquo; was, according
+to his own narrative, born at St. Albans and, if we may trust an old
+inscription, was buried in the abbey;<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnnum">[2]</a> Dr. Cotton, the poet, lived and
+died in the same town, where the poet Cowper lodged with him at the
+&ldquo;Collegium Insanorum&rdquo;. Bacon lived at Gorhambury and was buried in the
+neighbouring church of St. Michael. Bulwer Lytton lived and wrote at
+Knebworth, where he was visited by Forster, Dickens and others. George
+Chapman translated much of Homer at Hitchin, and is believed to have
+been born in that town. Young, the author of the <i>Night Thoughts</i>, was
+for many years Rector of Welwyn; his son was visited there by Boswell
+and Dr. Johnson. Macaulay was at school at Aspenden. John Scott, the
+Quaker poet, lived at Amwell; Lee, the dramatist, was born at Hatfield.
+Skelton probably stayed at Ashridge just before the Dissolution of the
+Monasteries; Sir Thomas More lived awhile at Gobions, North Mimms.
+Cowper was born at Berkhampstead. The county has been immortalised by
+Walton and Lamb in writings known to all.</p>
+
+<p>2. <i>Divines.</i>&mdash;Bunyan laboured and preached <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a>[Pg&nbsp;41]</span>much in Hitchin and its
+neighbourhood; Baxter preached at Sarratt and elsewhere, and lived
+awhile at Totteridge; Isaac Watts lived for many years at Theobalds near
+Cheshunt; Philip Doddridge was at school at St. Albans. Fox, in his
+<i>Journal</i>, mentions visiting Hitchin, Baldock and other places.
+Tillotson was a curate at Cheshunt; Ken was born at Little
+Berkhampstead; Nathaniel Field, a man of prodigious learning, chaplain
+to James I., was born at Hemel Hempstead. William Penn, whom many
+considered a divine indeed, lived with his beautiful wife at Basing
+House, Rickmansworth; Godwin was an Independent minister at Ware. Ridley
+and Bonner were much in the county. Fleetwood, afterwards Bishop of
+Worcester, was Rector of Anstey; Cudworth was Vicar of Ashwell; Warham
+was Rector of Barley; Horsley was Rector of Thorley. The two Sherlocks,
+respectively Master of the Temple and Bishop of London, were Rectors of
+Therfield. Lightfoot, the Great Hebraist, was Rector of Great Munden.</p>
+
+<p>To classify other celebrities connected with the county would require
+almost as many headings as names. Henry Bessemer was born at Charlton
+near Hitchin; Cardinal Wolsey lived at Delamere House, Great Wymondley;
+the munificent Somers lived at North Mimms; Nicholas Breakspeare, who
+became Pope Adrian IV., was born at Abbots Langley; Piers Gaveston was
+much at Berkhampstead and was buried in the priory church at King&rsquo;s
+Langley; Sir <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a>[Pg&nbsp;42]</span>Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, lived at Theobalds
+and is buried at Hatfield; Lords Melbourne and Palmerston lived much at
+Brocket Hall, where the latter died; Sir Ralph Sadleir, statesman and
+ambassador to Scotland, who is said to have rallied the English at
+Pinkie, lived at Standon and is buried in the church.</p>
+
+<p>Many noble or illustrious families have resided in Hertfordshire. Some
+of the owners of old manors are mentioned in the Gazetteer; but a few
+prominent families may be here named. The Cecils have been Lords of
+Hatfield since James I. gave the manor to the first Earl of Salisbury in
+exchange for that at Theobalds. The Cowpers have resided at Panshanger
+since the erection of their castellated mansion in the Park a century
+ago by the fifth earl. The Egertons, Dukes and Earls of Bridgewater,
+lived at Ashridge; one of them, Francis, third duke, is known in history
+as &ldquo;the father of British inland navigation,&rdquo; and another was the
+projector of the famous <i>Bridgewater Treatises</i>. The Capells, Earls of
+Essex, have owned the beautiful estate at Cassiobury Park since the
+father of the first earl obtained it by marriage during the reign of
+Charles I. The Rothschild family have an estate at Tring; Lord Ebury is
+the owner of Moor Park; Lord Lytton still owns the grand old house of
+the great novelist at Knebworth, founded nearly 350 years ago. The Earl
+of Cavan has a house at Wheathampstead; Viscount Hampden at Kimpton Hoo;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a>[Pg&nbsp;43]</span>Earl Strathmore at St. Paul&rsquo;s Walden Bury; the Earl of Clarenden (Lord
+Lieut. of Herts) at the Grove, Leavesden; Lord Grimthorpe lived at St.
+Albans. Gorhambury, near St. Albans, is the home of the Earl of Verulam.
+Mgr. Robert Hugh Benson lived and wrote many novels at Hare Street
+House, near Buntingford.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>[Pg&nbsp;44]</span></p>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_1_1">[1]</a></span> There has been much dispute as to the exact trend of the
+&ldquo;Great North Road&rdquo;. After careful inquiry I believe that the above
+paragraph states the case correctly. Much misunderstanding has doubtless
+arisen by confounding the &ldquo;Old&rdquo; with the &ldquo;Great&rdquo; North Road.</p></div>
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_2_2">[2]</a></span> As most readers are aware, it is now, to say the least,
+gravely questioned whether &ldquo;Sir John Maundeville&rdquo; was ever more than a
+name.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a>[Pg&nbsp;45]</span></p>
+<h2><a name="DESCRIPTION_OF_PLACES_IN_HERTFORDSHIRE_ARRANGED_ALPHABETICALLY" id="DESCRIPTION_OF_PLACES_IN_HERTFORDSHIRE_ARRANGED_ALPHABETICALLY"></a>DESCRIPTION OF PLACES IN HERTFORDSHIRE ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY</h2>
+
+
+<p class="narrow">
+Abbreviations of architectural terms:&mdash;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">E.E.&nbsp; = Early English.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dec.&nbsp; = Decorated.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Perp. = Perpendicular.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="AbbotsLangley" id="AbbotsLangley"></a><span class="smcap">Abbots Langley</span> (1&frac12; mile S.E. of King&rsquo;s Langley Station) is a
+village on prettily wooded high ground near the river Gade. It is famous
+as the birthplace of Nicholas Breakspeare, who, having vainly
+endeavoured to be admitted as a monk in the great Benedictine monastery
+at St. Albans, studied at Paris and eventually became Pope Adrian IV. He
+died in 1158 at Anagni; tradition states that he was choked with a fly
+whilst drinking. The village probably owes its name, first, to its
+length, &ldquo;Langley&rdquo; signifying a long land; second, to the fact that in
+the days of Edward the Confessor it was given to the Abbots of St.
+Albans by Egelwine the Black and <a name="cm6" id="cm6"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr6"
+title="Original reads 'Wincelfied'">Wincelfled</a> his wife. An entry in
+<i>Domesday</i> records that there were two mills on this manor, yielding
+30s. rent yearly, and wood to feed 300 hogs. The Church of St. Lawrence
+has nave, aisles and clerestory; a chancel with S. aisle, and square
+embattled tower. The windows are mostly Perp., but those of the S. aisle
+are Dec. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>[Pg&nbsp;46]</span>Note (1) the monument to Lord Chief Justice Raymond, died
+1732; (2) the brasses in nave to Thos. Cogdell and his two wives, 1607,
+and to Ralph Horwode and family, 1478. Late in the reign of Henry VIII.
+the vicarage was rated at &pound;10 per annum. An inscription in the chancel,
+copied in Chauncy, reads &ldquo;Here lieth Robert Nevil and Elizabeth his
+wife, which Robert deceased the 28th of April in the year of our Lord
+God 1475. This World is but a Vanity, to Day a man, to Morrow none.&rdquo;
+Prince Charles held a Court at Abbots Langley during the Reign of James
+I.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Albury" id="Albury"></a><span class="smcap">Albury</span> (3&frac12; miles E. of Braughing Station) is a village near the
+river Ash. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, dates from the fourteenth
+century; it was recently restored. There was an earlier structure so far
+back as the days of Stephen, in whose reign Robert de Sigillo gave the
+profits of the church at <i>Eldeberei</i> to Geoffery, first Treasurer of St.
+Paul&rsquo;s Church, London. An interesting will, dated 4th November, 1589,
+records that Marmaduke Bickerdy, Vicar of Aldebury, gave an acre of land
+in the neighbourhood to provide a sum for distribution among the poor on
+every Good Friday. In the chancel the mutilated effigies of a man and
+woman are said to represent Sir Walter de la Lee and his wife. Sir
+Walter sat in nine Parliaments in the interests of the county&mdash;at
+Westminster, Northampton and Cambridge, and was Sheriff of Herts and
+Essex. He died during the reign of Richard II. <i>Albury Hall</i>, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a>[Pg&nbsp;47]</span>close
+by, is a fine old mansion, where the &ldquo;Religeous, Just and Charitable&rdquo;
+Sir Edward Atkins, Knight, and Baron of the Exchequer, died in 1669. The
+village is usually a quiet spot, with little business, but it is
+pleasantly situated; the proximity of the river and some scattered
+cottages and farms enhance its attractiveness.</p>
+
+<p><i>Albury End</i> is a small hamlet about 1 mile S.W. of Albury.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo005" name="illo005"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo005.jpg"
+      alt="THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY"
+      title="THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY"
+      height="406" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="Aldbury" id="Aldbury"></a><span class="smcap">Aldbury</span> (1&frac12; mile E. from Tring Station) is a village on the
+Buckinghamshire border, nestled in a beautiful valley close to Ashridge
+Park (<i><a href="#Ashridge">q.v.</a></i>). It is the &ldquo;Clinton Magna&rdquo; of <i>Bessie Costrell</i>, and the
+author of that story, Mrs. Humphrey Ward, lived at <i>Stocks</i>, a few
+minutes&rsquo; walk from the village. On the Tring side Aldbury is sheltered
+by swelling fields and to the E. beech woods cover the hillside, which
+is topped by the &ldquo;Aldbury Monument,&rdquo; a granite column about 100 feet
+high erected to the memory of Francis, third Duke of Bridgewater, whose
+labours and enterprise for the extension of canals earned for him the
+well-known title &ldquo;the father of inland navigation&rdquo;. As a village of the
+Old English type Aldbury has perhaps no equal in the county. In the
+centre is the green and pond, under the shadow of an enormous elm; close
+by stand the stocks and whipping-post, recently in excellent
+preservation. The Church of St. John the Baptist is E.E.; it was
+restored in 1867. Visitors should notice the old sundial on a pedestal
+in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>[Pg&nbsp;48]</span>the churchyard, and the Verney Chapel, which is separated from the
+nave by a screen of stone, and contains a monument to Sir Robert
+Whittingham, who was slain at the battle of Tewkesbury. The church also
+contains memorials of the Hides and Harcourts, families who left several
+charities to the poor of the parish. In the days of Edward the Confessor
+the manor of <i><a name="cm7" id="cm7"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr7"
+title="Original unclear">Aldeberie</a></i> was held by one Alwin, the king&rsquo;s thane.
+The ascent of the wooded slope towards the Bridgewater monument takes
+the visitor through one of the most beautiful districts in the county,
+and a noble prospect stretches before him as he looks back through the
+beeches towards the village in the valley beneath.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Aldenham" id="Aldenham"></a><span class="smcap">Aldenham</span> (2 miles S.W. from Radlett Station M.R.) is a village
+pleasantly situated near the river Colne, reached by way of Berry Grove
+at the W. end of the village. The churchyard is locally famous for the
+tombs of a man and woman named Hutchinson, which, singularly enough,
+have been riven apart and almost destroyed by three sycamore trees about
+a century old. The Church of St. John the Baptist is largely Perp. with
+earlier portions, and is worth a visit, if only for the oaken nave-roof,
+believed to date from about 1480, and for the font of Purbeck marble,
+probably 750 years old. An object of greater interest in some eyes is
+the fine parish chest, formed from one massive piece of oak nearly ten
+feet in length, and furnished with iron clamps and hinges of great size;
+there are few finer old parish chests in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a>[Pg&nbsp;49]</span>England. Note also (1) the
+triple sedilia in chancel; (2) the many brasses dating from 1450,
+several of which are to the Cary family; (3) two palimpsest brasses in
+the vestry, one of which bears a portion of a mutilated inscription to
+one Long, an alderman of London, who died in 1536. The church was
+restored in 1882 by Sir A. W. Blomfield, F.S.A. <i>Aldenham House</i>,
+property of Lord Aldenham, dates from the days of Charles II., and
+stands in a park of about 300 acres.</p>
+
+<p><i>Aldenham Abbey</i>, once known as Wall Hall, stands close to the parish
+church; it is about a century old, and belongs to the Stuart family.</p>
+
+<p><i>Aldwick Farm</i> is 1 mile N.E. from Marston Gate Station, L.&amp;N.W.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Allen&rsquo;s Green</i>, a hamlet 2 miles N.W. from Sawbridgeworth, contains
+little of interest.</p>
+
+<p><i>Almshoebury</i> (1&frac12; mile W. of Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is about fifteen
+minutes&rsquo; walk from the ruins of <i>Minsden Chapel</i> (<i><a href="#Minsden">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><a name="Amwell" id="Amwell"></a><span class="smcap">Amwell</span> is a tiny hamlet 1 mile S.W. of Wheathampstead Station,
+G.N.R.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Amwell, Great</span>, a parish and village 1&frac12; mile S.E. of Ware
+Station, G.E.R., is very prettily situated near the New River, and is
+known by name to many who have never visited the neighbourhood, for the
+village is frequently mentioned in the essays and letters of Charles
+Lamb. The church stands on a wooded slope; near by are the village
+stocks, the tiny island upon which stands a monument to Sir Hugh
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>[Pg&nbsp;50]</span>Myddelton, the projector of the New River, and the stone bearing some
+lines written by John Scott, the Quaker. The grotto constructed by the
+poet may still be seen near the railway station at Ware. The church is
+an architectural conglomeration, with several stained windows, one of
+which was contributed by the children of the parish as an Easter
+offering nearly seventy years ago. The structure was restored in 1866.
+There is a piscina in the chancel, and one in the S. wall of the nave;
+there are also two hagioscopes. &ldquo;The chancel arch,&rdquo; writes Canon Benham,
+&ldquo;seems to me Anglo-Saxon, and the chancel is a most curious apse.&rdquo;
+Thomas Warner, a friend of Shakespeare, and Isaac Reed, a Shakespearian
+commentator, were both buried here.</p>
+
+<p><i>Amwell End</i>, once at the N.W. extremity of the parish of Great Amwell,
+is now a part of Ware (<i><a href="#Ware">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><a name="LittleAmwell" id="LittleAmwell"></a><i>Amwell, Little</i> (about 1&frac12; mile S.W. from Great Amwell), was formerly a
+liberty in the parish of All Saints, Hertford; it has formed a separate
+civil and ecclesiastical parish since 1864. The Church of Holy Trinity
+is E.E. in style; it was erected in 1863. The district is now usually
+called Hertford Heath. An interesting, pleasant ramble may be enjoyed by
+walking from Hertford to Little Amwell, Great Amwell, and thence to
+Ware, or <i>vice versa</i>.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Anstey" id="Anstey"></a><span class="smcap">Anstey</span> (about 4&frac12; miles N.E. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.)
+has a cruciform church of mixed styles: the nave is Dec., the transepts
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>[Pg&nbsp;51]</span>E.E., the S. porch Perp. The tower rests upon four Norman arches; the
+font also is Norman. The church was restored in 1871; many features of
+architectural interest being wisely retained. The recumbent effigy in
+the recess in S. transept is thought to be that of Richard de Anestie,
+who founded the church in the fourteenth century. We learn from
+<i>Domesday Book</i> that at the time of the Great Survey there was &ldquo;pannage&rdquo;
+(<i>i.e.</i> acorn woods) at <i>Anestie</i> sufficient to feed fifty hogs, and
+that the manor was worth fourteen pounds a year. There was once a castle
+here, built soon after the Conquest, the site of which is supposed to be
+marked by the remains of a moat still to be traced in the grounds of
+<i>Anstey Hall</i>. The churchyard is entered by a covered lich-gate.</p>
+
+<p><i>Appleby Street</i> is a hamlet 3 miles N.W. from Cheshunt Station, S.E.R.,
+and about 2 miles N.W. from the village.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Apsley End</span> (about 1&frac12; mile S. from Hemel Hempstead Station,
+M.R., and 1&frac14; mile S.E. from Boxmoor Station, L.&amp;N.W.R.) is an
+ecclesiastical parish near the river Gade. The church, dedicated to St.
+Mary, was built in E. Dec. style in 1871, and is well furnished and
+decorated. One of the prettiest prospects in the neighbourhood is that
+from Abbot&rsquo;s Hill, a fine private residence, flanked by woods. The Gade
+and Bulbourne Rivers unite, a little N.W. from the village, at a place
+called <i>Two Waters</i> (<i><a href="#TwoWaters">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><i>Archer&rsquo;s Green</i> is on the river Maran, about &frac12; a mile S.E. from Tewin
+Church and 1&frac34; mile <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a>[Pg&nbsp;52]</span>N.W. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. It adjoins
+<i>Panshanger Park</i> (<i><a href="#PanshangerPark">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><a name="Ardeley" id="Ardeley"></a><span class="smcap">Ardeley</span>, otherwise Yardley (6 miles S.W. from Buntingford
+Station, G.E.R.), is a village and parish in a purely agricultural
+district. It is famous through its connection with the Chauncy family,
+who resided at Ardeley Bury for many generations; one of them, Sir Henry
+Chauncy, was the author of a well-known history of Hertfordshire. The
+family monument is outside of the church of St. Lawrence, some existing
+portions of which date from the thirteenth century. The roofs of nave
+and aisles are noticeable for the angels which they bear, of Tudor
+character; visitors should observe, too, the early window in the
+restored chancel. <i>Ardeley Bury</i>, in the days of Sir Henry Chauncy, was
+an Elizabethan manor-house dating from about the year 1580, surrounded
+by a moat; it was almost entirely rebuilt of brick in 1815-20, when it
+became a castellated, imposing mansion. The manor of <i>Erdeley</i> was owned
+by a succession of Saxon kings until Athelstan bestowed it upon the
+church of St. Paul, London, as recorded in Dugdale&rsquo;s <i>Monasticon
+Anglicanum</i>; it was of the Dean and Chapter that the Chauncys rented
+their estate. The river Beane rises near here. A stroll around Ardeley
+and Ardeley Bury leads the visitor into some of the quietest spots to be
+found in the county. The windmill on the hill above Cromer, near by, is
+useful as a landmark when threading the many winding lanes in the
+neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a>[Pg&nbsp;53]</span><a name="Arkley" id="Arkley"></a><span class="smcap">Arkley</span> (1 mile W. from High Barnet) consists chiefly of a few
+small houses at a spot once called Barnet Common. The view is extensive
+in every direction, the village (strictly speaking the chapelry) lying
+on high ground. The chapel of St. Peter was erected in 1840, the style
+being a variety of Low Gothic; a chancel (E.E.) was added in 1898, and
+has a good groined roof.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Ash" id="Ash"></a><span class="smcap">Ash</span>, river; see Introduction, <a href="#IntroVI">Section VI</a>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ashbrook</i> consists of a few cottages and a beer-shop, 1 mile N.E. from
+St. Ippollit&rsquo;s village, and midway between Hitchin and Stevenage
+Stations, G.N.R.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo006" name="illo006"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo006.jpg"
+      alt="ASHRIDGE HOUSE"
+      title="ASHRIDGE HOUSE"
+      height="403" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">ASHRIDGE HOUSE</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="Ashridge" id="Ashridge"></a><span class="smcap">Ashridge</span> is in a beautifully undulating district, immediately
+N. of Berkhampstead Common, 1 mile E. from Aldbury Church and about 2
+miles E. from Tring Station, L.&amp;N.W.R. The present house, the seat of
+Earl Brownlow, stands in a park of about 1,000 acres, well known for the
+deer which are kept there; it was built by the first Earl of
+Bridgewater, or rather by his architect, Wyatt, in 1808-14. It is a huge
+structure, its greatest width being 1,000 feet; conspicuous portions are
+the turreted centre, some good arched doorways and the large Gothic
+porch. The site was formerly occupied by the palace of Edmund
+Crouchback, Earl of Cornwall, and by the monastery which he built,
+adjoining the palace, for the monks of the Order of Bonhommes, an Order
+which he himself brought to this country from France. The earl died
+here, but his bones were subsequently removed to Hailes Abbey in
+Gloucestershire. The <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>[Pg&nbsp;54]</span>house contains some fine pictures, including, in
+addition to works by modern masters, Rubens&rsquo; &ldquo;Death of Hippolytus,&rdquo;
+Luini&rsquo;s &ldquo;Holy Family&rdquo; and Titian&rsquo;s &ldquo;Three C&aelig;sars&rdquo;. In the chapel is a
+fine brass to John Swynstede, Prebendary of Lincoln, 1395. It was
+brought here from Edlesborough Church.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Ashwell" id="Ashwell"></a><span class="smcap">Ashwell</span> is a village of considerable size on the Cambridgeshire
+border. The village is 2&frac12; miles N.W. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R. The
+parish is very ancient, and is believed to have been the site of a
+British settlement and of a Roman station. The former theory is
+considered proved by the existing entrenchments, S.W. from the village,
+called Arbury Banks; the latter theory is supported by the fact that
+very many Roman relics, especially coins, have been discovered in the
+neighbourhood. That it was formerly a place of importance has been
+mentioned in the Introduction (<a href="#IntroV" >Section V.</a>); it was a town in Norman
+times, and held four fairs each year. The Rhee, a tributary of the Cam,
+rises in this village, at a spot surrounded by ash trees, and to this
+fact the parish is thought to owe its name. When Sir H. Rider Haggard
+was at Ashwell recently he was unable to say much for its agricultural
+prosperity and outlook; but in Chauncy&rsquo;s day the district produced &ldquo;all
+sorts of excellent Grain, especially Barley, which has greatly
+encouraged the trade of Malting in this Borrough&rdquo;. The same writer
+mentions the stone quarry, from which he tells as that several
+neighbouring churches had been <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a>[Pg&nbsp;55]</span>built or repaired. The Church of St.
+Mary the Virgin is mostly E.E. and is conspicuous for its spire-topped
+western tower, 176 feet high, being equal to the length of the church.
+Note (1) the large ambry in the S. aisle, once the lady-chapel, where is
+also a fragmentary reredos; (2) the curious inscriptions on the inner
+side of the tower walls, mostly undecipherable, one of which refers to
+the plague that attacked the town in the fourteenth century; (3) the
+really fine oaken pulpit, dating from the year 1627. There was formerly
+a small monastic house in the town, a cell to Westminster Abbey. From
+the village it is an open, breezy walk N. to Ashwell Common or S.E. to
+Ashwell Field, between the village and the station.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Aspenden" id="Aspenden"></a><span class="smcap">Aspenden</span> (1 mile S.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) may be
+reached from the Old North Road by turning to the left before entering
+Buntingford. It is a small, quiet, unimportant village; but much of it
+is picturesque and interesting. Readers will remember that Macaulay was
+at school here, and that it was the birthplace of Seth Ward,
+mathematician and bishop, a contemporary and antagonist of Thomas
+Hobbes. The church is a flint structure,&mdash;a conglomeration of many
+styles. Notable features are the Easter sepulchre in the N. wall of
+chancel, the Norman window close to it, the piscina, ambry and credence
+table, discovered during the restoration of the church by Sir A. W.
+Blomfield in 1873. There are also memorial windows to members of the
+Lushington family, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a>[Pg&nbsp;56]</span>and an altar tomb, under a canopy of marble, to &ldquo;Sir
+Robert Clyfford&rdquo; (d. 1508), who built the church porch in 1500, and to
+his wife Elizabeth. The tomb bears brass effigies of these worthies,
+which were once in the Church of St. Michael, Cornhill, but were brought
+to Aspenden at the time of the fire of London. The aisle (S.) was built
+by Sir Ralph Jocelyn in 1478. This Sir Ralph was lord of the manor; he
+is remembered in history for his sally against Thomas Nevill, when that
+adventurer attempted to rescue Henry VI. from the Tower. He was twice
+Lord Mayor of London (1464 and 1476). He died in 1478 and was buried at
+Sawbridgeworth.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Aston" id="Aston"></a><span class="smcap">Aston</span> (2&frac14; miles N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) has an
+ancient church restored in 1883. There is E.E. work in parts of nave and
+chancel, but other portions are largely Perp., especially the tower,
+which is embattled. The alabaster reredos and several memorial windows
+are worth notice; nor should visitors overlook the brass at the foot of
+the chancel steps to one John Kent, his wife and ten children. This
+worthy died in 1592; he was a servant of Edward VI., Mary and Elizabeth.
+The village is scattered upon a hill a little W. from the river Beane,
+and dates from Saxon times. The manor was once owned by three men under
+the protection of Archbishop Stigand; afterwards by the Abbot of
+Reading. It fell to the Crown at the Dissolution, like so many other
+properties.</p>
+
+<p><i>Aston Bury</i> is a fine manor house of red <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a>[Pg&nbsp;57]</span>brick, about &frac34; mile S. from
+the village, formerly the property of the Boteler family. The prospect
+from the N. windows is a noble one, the district being varied and
+undulating.</p>
+
+<p><i>Aston End</i>, a hamlet 1 mile N.W. from Aston, may be reached from
+Stevenage Station, G.N.R., about 2&frac12; miles. There is little here of
+interest, but the neighbourhood is very pleasant and largely
+agricultural.</p>
+
+<p><i>Astrope Hamlet</i> (&frac12; mile E. from Puttenham) is midway between the
+village of Long Marston and the Aylesbury Canal. It is close to the
+Bucks border.</p>
+
+<p><i>Astwick Farm</i> is 2 miles N.W. from Hatfield Station, G.N.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Attimore Hall</i> is 1&frac12; mile S.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Aubrey Camp</i> (&frac34; mile S.W. from Redbourn) is conjectured to be the site
+of an early British encampment.</p>
+
+<p><i>Austage End</i> lies in the parish of King&rsquo;s Walden, in a purely
+agricultural district.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ayot Green</i> is about &frac12; mile S.E. from and in the parish of Ayot St.
+Peter&rsquo;s (<i><a href="#AyotStP">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Ayot St. Lawrence</span> (2&frac12; miles N.E. from Wheathampstead Station
+and about the same distance N.W. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) has a new
+and an old church. The former is in Ayot Park, and was designed by
+Revett in a classical style. Note (1) the <i>Eastern</i> portico, with
+colonnade on either side; (2) the memorial to Sir Lionel Lyde, Bart. (d.
+1791), and to the architect of the church (d. 1804). The earlier
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>[Pg&nbsp;58]</span>structure, still in ruins near the middle of the village, was Dec. of
+an early period, with several singular features; the tower, however, was
+Perp. &ldquo;The Windows ... have been adorn&rsquo;d with curious Pictures, in
+stained and painted Glass, beyond many other Churches.&rdquo; The village has
+at different times been styled Eye, Aiot, Great Aiot, and Ayot St.
+Lawrence, and was a parcel of the property of Harold Godwin. <i>Ayot
+House</i>, standing in a beautiful park of 200 acres, was once the property
+and residence of Sir William Parr, brother to Catherine Parr, Queen of
+Henry VIII. A room in an older building in the rear of the present
+mansion was once, according to local tradition, the prison of Catherine
+Parr. There are shoes at Ayot House which belonged to Anne Boleyn and a
+hat of Henry VIII.</p>
+
+<p><a name="AyotStP" id="AyotStP"></a><span class="smcap">Ayot St. Peter&rsquo;s</span> (&frac14; mile N. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) lies in
+a pretty district watered by the rivers Maran and Lea. The village is
+small, but has a commodious Parish Room, containing a small library.
+There was a mill here in the time of the Great Survey, the rent of which
+was three shillings and 200 eels from the mill-pool per annum. A church,
+bearing &ldquo;a short spire erected upon the tower,&rdquo; stood on the hill-top in
+Chauncy&rsquo;s day; in 1751 an octagonal structure of red brick was built by
+the rector (Dr. Freeman) some distance from the village. This church was
+demolished in 1862 and a new one built upon its site; in 1874 this was
+in turn destroyed by lightning, and in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a>[Pg&nbsp;59]</span>1875 the present church of St.
+Peter, E.E. in style, was erected much nearer to the village. It
+contains a very fine pulpit, carved by Miss Bonham, of Norwood, upon
+which the figures of SS. Alban and Helen are conspicuous among others.
+There are several memorial windows, tastefully designed, one of which,
+to the memory of Mrs. I. A. Robinson, was designed by the architect (J.
+P. Seddon). A delightful stroll may be taken from the village, westwards
+to Wheathampstead or Lamer Park, or northwards to Codicote or Kimpton.
+Nightingales are plentiful in the neighbourhood; the numerous thickets,
+dense and secluded, affording excellent shelter to this shy songster.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baas Hill</i> is &frac34; mile W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Babb&rsquo;s Green</i> (nearly midway between Mardock and Widford Station,
+G.E.R.) is a small hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baker&rsquo;s Grove</i> is 1&frac12; miles S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo007" name="illo007"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo007.jpg"
+      alt="OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK"
+      title="OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK"
+      height="380" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>BALDOCK, a small town in the northern extremity of the county, lies
+between the chalk hills at the junction of the Great North Road and the
+Roman Icknield Way. The malting industry is still busily pursued,
+although the town is not so exclusively devoted to it as formerly. Very
+fine barley was grown in the district before the reign of Elizabeth, and
+the horse fairs, of which there are several annually, are well attended.
+The township was founded by the Knights Templars, in whose time there
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a>[Pg&nbsp;60]</span>stood a Lazar-house a little eastwards from the town. The church,
+dating from the fourteenth century, is large, and of considerable
+architectural interest. The chancel and adjoining chapels are Perp. and
+contain sedilia and piscin&aelig;; the nave has eight bays and a lofty
+clerestory. The rood-screen is co-extensive with the width of the entire
+church; the octagonal font is of great antiquity (probably not less than
+700 years); there are several brasses, two of which are of the early
+part of the fifteenth century. Note also (1) the defaced slab, with
+Lombardic inscription to Reynaud de Argenthem, (2) the piscina-like
+recess in the N. chapel, (3) the Dec. pillars and arches of nave, (4)
+the fine old chest near rood-screen (N. chapel). Baldock has been the
+recipient of many bequests; existing charities are in the name of Roe,
+Wynne, Pryor, Cooch, Clarkson, Smith, Parker, and a few others, the
+whole aggregating a considerable annual sum. The Wynne Almshouses are in
+the spacious High Street, where are also the fine town hall and fire
+station, erected in 1896-7. Some side streets between the church and
+station are noticeable for the variety of cottage architecture which
+they display.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Barkway" id="Barkway"></a><span class="smcap">Barkway</span> (4 miles S.E. from Royston station, G.N.R.) was a
+village of some importance in the old coaching days, for it is on the
+main road from Ware to Cambridge. It was partly burnt in 1592. There are
+many quaint houses in the neighbourhood, and one or two <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a>[Pg&nbsp;61]</span>inns seem to
+still retain something of the atmosphere of the old r&eacute;gime. Near the
+village, at a spot called Rokey Wood, a small bronze statue of Mars was
+discovered some years ago. It is of Roman workmanship and is now in the
+British Museum. Cyclists riding northwards or eastwards from Barkway
+will find many hills to test their powers; but the air is exceptionally
+good and the district decidedly worth visiting. The church (flint, with
+stone quoins) is Perp. with embattled and pinnacled western tower; it
+was restored in 1861. Several memorials are worth noticing: (1) marble
+sarcophagus, with bust by Rysbrach, to Admiral Sir John Jennings (d.
+1743); (2) brass on N. wall, found in the flooring during restoration,
+to Robert Poynard (d. 1561), his wives Bridget and Joan, and his four
+daughters; (3) monuments to Chester and Clinton families in chancel. The
+once annual Pedlars&rsquo; Fair has been discontinued; as has also the Tuesday
+market, which dated from the days of Henry III. In Saxon times the
+village was called Bergwant, <i>i.e.</i>, the way over the hill.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Barley" id="Barley"></a><span class="smcap">Barley</span>, a village on the Essex border, is 2 miles N.E. from
+Barkway, and lies on the same high road. The Church of St. Margaret was
+restored in 1872, in fourteenth century Gothic, but the tower, which is
+Norman, still stands. During the restoration some curious jars, of
+ancient make, were found in the chancel walls, but were broken in the
+efforts to dislodge them. There is a brass to Andrew Willet, D.D.,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a>[Pg&nbsp;62]</span>rector of the parish and author of <i>Synopsis Papismi</i> (d. 1621).</p>
+
+<p>Some interesting data for a book on the antiquities of Barley are
+preserved in the pre-Reformation &ldquo;Parish Hutch&rdquo;. I may mention the
+&ldquo;towne house ... tyme out of mynde used and employed for the keeping of
+maides&rsquo; marriages,&rdquo; and the &ldquo;Playstoe&rdquo; or &ldquo;common playinge place for the
+younge people and other inhabitants of the said towne&rdquo;. This &ldquo;towne
+house&rdquo; may still be seen near the church.</p>
+
+<p><i>Barleycroft End</i> is S.E. from Furneaux Pelham (<i><a href="#FurnPelham">q.v.</a></i>). It almost
+adjoins that village.</p>
+
+<p>BARNET, EAST (&frac12; mile from Oakleigh Park Station, G.N.R.) is surrounded
+by Middlesex except to the N.W. where it adjoins New Barnet. The old
+village is situated at the meeting of the roads from High Barnet,
+Southgate and Enfield. The Church of St. Mary the Virgin is very
+interesting; it stands on the hill-top, at a sharp bend in the road,
+about &frac12; mile S. from the village. It is said to have been founded about
+the year 1100 by an abbot of St. Albans; if this date is approximately
+correct this abbot must have been Richard d&rsquo;Aubeny or de Albini, who
+ruled the great monastery from 1097 to 1119, and in whose day the whole
+manor (including Chipping or High Barnet) belonged to the Abbey of St.
+Albans. The structure is Early Norman, with a western tower of brick,
+through the lower portion of which the church is entered. The N. wall is
+probably the most ancient church <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a>[Pg&nbsp;63]</span>wall in this part of the county. There
+is a lich-gate at the N. entrance to the churchyard. A son of Bishop
+Burnet, the historian, was once rector here, and is buried in the
+church. Tradition states that Thomson the poet was tutor to the son of
+Lord Binning when that nobleman lived at the old Manor House, the site
+of which is now a part of the rectory garden. Near the church, too,
+stood once a house in which Lady Arabella Stuart was confined. <i>Belmont
+House</i> (C. A. Hanbury, Esq., D.L., J.P.) marks the site where stood
+Mount Pleasant, once the property of the Belted Will Howard, Warden of
+the Western Marches, referred to in the &ldquo;Lay of the Last Minstrel&rdquo;.
+<i>Little Grove</i>, a house on Cat Hill (Mrs. Stern), stands where stood
+formerly the house of the widow of Sir Richard Fanshawe, Bart.,
+Ambassador to Spain in the reign of Charles I. The whole neighbourhood
+is varied and undulating; the eastern extremity of the parish touched
+the confines of Enfield Chace until late in the eighteenth century.</p>
+
+<p>BARNET, HIGH (formerly &ldquo;Chipping Barnet&rdquo; from the market granted by
+Henry II. to the Abbots of St. Albans, which was held every Monday),
+stands on the hill-top about 11 miles N.W. from London, and 9 miles S.E.
+from St. Albans. As stated above, the manor belonged to the Abbots of
+St. Albans, and Chauncy tells a story in this connection which is worth
+repeating: &ldquo;Anno 18, Edw. I., the Abbot of St. Albans (Roger de Norton,
+24th <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>[Pg&nbsp;64]</span>Abbot) impleaded several Persons for prostrating his Ditch and
+burning his Hedges and Fences in the Night at <i>Bernet</i>; Richard
+Tykering, one of the Defendants, said, that because the Abbot enclosed
+his Pasture with Hedge and Ditch, so that he and the Tenants there,
+could not have their common, as their Ancestors were wont to have, they
+did lay open the same. The Abbot answered that they ought not to have
+Common there; but &rsquo;twas found by the Jury that the Tenants ought to have
+Common; and Judgment was given against the said Richard Tickering only
+for that he burnt the Hedge.&rdquo; Other squabbles between abbot and peasant
+are referred to in this book, in the section on St. Albans. The Parish
+Church of St. John the Baptist stands at the junction of the roads from
+London, Enfield and St. Albans. It has known many changes. A church
+stood upon the spot so long ago as <i>circa</i> 1250, to which a detached
+tower was added about a century later. The body of this structure was
+almost wholly replaced by a new building, reaching to and including the
+tower, near the end of the abbacy of John de la Moote (1396-1401). The
+present church is the result of the restoration and enlargement under
+the direction of Mr. W. Butterfield, in 1875; it is of flint and worked
+stone, partly Dec. and partly Perp. The old tower was lowered
+sufficiently to form a portion of the nave and a new embattled tower was
+built, now a conspicuous landmark for many miles round. The <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a>[Pg&nbsp;65]</span>present N.
+aisle is entirely new. The nave is clerestoried, with eight bays; most
+of the windows are of stained glass. The Ravenscroft mortuary chapel,
+adjoining the S. transept, contains many monuments, the most conspicuous
+being the altar-tomb and recumbent effigy in marble to Thomas
+Ravenscroft (d. 1630), which was formerly in the chancel. Other
+memorials are to James Ravenscroft (d. 1680) who founded and endowed the
+almshouses in Wood Street near by, called <i>Jesus&rsquo; Hospital</i>, and to John
+Ravenscroft (d. 1681). Note (1) the beautifully carved font screen,
+pinnacled and crocketted; (2) the pulpit, adorned with carved figures of
+men famous in English Church history; (3) the four ancient ledgers of
+stone, two in the chapel and two in the tower-basement, all inscribed to
+members of the Ravenscroft family. The church was formerly a
+chapel-of-ease to that at East Barnet. A Roman Catholic church,
+dedicated to SS. Mary the Immaculate and Gregory the Great, stands in
+Union Street: it was built in 1850.</p>
+
+<p>On Barnet Common there was formerly a medicinal spring known widely as
+&ldquo;Barnet Wells&rdquo;; its chalybeate waters are referred to in Pepys&rsquo; <i>Diary</i>,
+and more fully praised in <i>The Perfect Diurnall</i> (1652) and <i>The Barnet
+Well Water</i> (1800). These waters were in such repute that one John Owen,
+an alderman of London, provided &pound;1 to be spent yearly in keeping the
+well in fit condition. Barnet Fair, which is held annually early in
+September, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a>[Pg&nbsp;66]</span>is attended by cattle dealers from all parts of England and
+Scotland, and by showmen and adventurers of all kinds. It is certainly
+one of the most famous horse fairs in the country. The ordinary cattle
+market is held each Wednesday.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Battle of Barnet</span>.&mdash;Of this engagement, so familiar by name,
+very little is known accurately. Early in the spring of 1471, Edward
+IV., assisted in his schemes by the Duke of Burgundy, quitted Flanders,
+whither he had fled when the Earl of Warwick landed in the S. of England
+with reinforcements from Louis XI.; touched, after a difficult passage,
+at Cromer, where he heard of the resistance organised by Warwick, and
+finally landed at Ravenspurgh on the Humber. Having been joined by
+further followers at Nottingham he entered London on Holy Thursday, the
+Lancastrians offering little resistance. Warwick collected his forces,
+and the two armies met on Easter Sunday on Gladmore Common or Gledsmuir
+Heath, to the N.W. of what is now Hadley Wood. The engagement was
+desperately contested for five or six hours, with such varying success
+that some accounts relate how messengers rode to London during the day
+with the news that Edward was losing the battle. This, as it proved, was
+not the case. Chauncy repeats the old tradition that a fog gathered over
+the battle-field, that the Lancastrians slew one another in the mist and
+confusion, and that this led to the death of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>[Pg&nbsp;67]</span>Warwick. It is supposed
+that the &ldquo;King Maker&rdquo; fell close to the spot now marked by Hadley High
+Stone. This obelisk was erected a little distance off in 1740; but was
+removed nearer to what is now thought the right position. Montacute,
+brother to Warwick, was slain at the same spot.</p>
+
+<p>BARNET, NEW, is a residential extension of High and East Barnet, being
+situated between the two. Indeed, the whole of &ldquo;Barnet&rdquo; is now almost
+merged into one; there being houses or shops almost from Hadley High
+Stone to a little S. from Cat Hill. The Station Road is a wide pleasant
+thoroughfare stretching from New Barnet Station, G.N.R., to the main
+road from London to High Barnet. The whole district is excellent ground
+for the student of modern domestic architecture, the examples of diverse
+schools and styles being endless. The stretch of valley between the
+railway and High Barnet, now largely built upon, is a new civil parish
+called Barnet Vale. On a gentle slope in the centre, off Potter&rsquo;s Road,
+stands the new Church of St. Mark, in which services have been held for
+twenty-four years, but which is still incomplete. <i>Lyonsdown</i>, an
+ecclesiastical district founded in 1869, is scattered over high ground
+S.W. from the station; it is almost wholly comprised of detached
+residences and is considered exceedingly healthy. There is here a good
+view, overlooking the stretch of hill and dale towards Cockfosters, New
+Southgate, and the Alexandra Palace. The Church of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a>[Pg&nbsp;68]</span>Holy Trinity,
+erected in 1864, is Dec. and contains fine lancet windows to W. C. M.
+Plowden, killed in Abyssinia. There are N. and S. porches, good of their
+kind, and the apsidal chancel is well designed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Barwick Ford</i> is on the river Rib, about 2&frac12; miles N.W. from Hadham and
+3 miles S.W. from Standon Stations, G.E.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bassett&rsquo;s Green</i> (1 mile S.E. from Walkern Church) is a small hamlet
+between Walkern Hall and Walkern Bury. There is no railway station
+nearer than 5 miles, Buntingford, G.E.R., and Stevenage, G.N.R., being
+each about that distance.</p>
+
+<p><i>Batchworth</i> is a hamlet close to Rickmansworth Station, L.&amp;N.W.R., at
+the N.W. extremity of Moor Park (<i><a href="#MoorParkRick">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><i>Batchworth Heath</i>, 1&frac12; mile S.E. from Rickmansworth, is on the Middlesex
+border.</p>
+
+<p><i>Batlers Green</i> (&frac34; mile from Radlett Church, and 1 mile S.W. from the
+station, M.R.) is in a pretty district, but contains little more than a
+few scattered cottages and farms.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Bayford" id="Bayford"></a><span class="smcap">Bayford</span> (3 miles S.W. from Hertford) is a parish and village on
+rising ground, near the river Lea. It has a cruciform church, E.E. in
+design, with facings of Kentish rag-stone, erected by W. R. Baker, Esq.,
+in 1870-1. In the chancel are seven fine lancet windows of stained
+glass. Note also (1) altar tomb and marble effigy to Sir George Knighton
+(d. 1612); (2) two palimpsest brasses, one bearing a figure in
+half-armour and the other a figure in plate-armour <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a>[Pg&nbsp;69]</span>and ring-mail skirt,
+of which the age is conjectural; (3) the fine lich-gate. In the
+churchyard lies William Yarrell, the great ornithologist (d. at
+Yarmouth, 1856).</p>
+
+<p><a name="Bayfordbury" id="Bayfordbury"></a><span class="smcap">Bayfordbury</span> stands in a beautiful park, famous for its fine
+cedars and pines, a little N. from the village. It is the seat of the
+lord of the manor, H. W. Clinton-Baker, Esq., J.P. The house was
+originally erected by an ancestor of the present owner, about 1760. Here
+are the portraits of most of the members of the Kit Cat Club, painted by
+Sir Godfrey Kneller; the MS. of the first book of <i>Paradise Lost</i>, and a
+collection of letters of great literary interest, were recently sold to
+America.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bedmond</i>, or <i>Bedmont</i>, together with Sheppeys, forms a large hamlet 1
+mile N. from the village of Abbots Langley, and nearly 2 miles N.E. from
+King&rsquo;s Langley Station, L.&amp;N.W.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bedwell Plash</i> is a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Stevenage.</p>
+
+<p><i>Beeson&rsquo;s End</i> is pleasantly situated near the S. extremity of Harpenden
+Common, and about 1&frac34; mile nearly due E. from Redbourn Station, M.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bell Bar</i>, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is near Brookman&rsquo;s
+Park, and about 2&frac12; miles N. from Potter&rsquo;s Bar Station, G.N.R.
+(Middlesex).</p>
+
+<p><i>Bendish</i> lies on high ground, 2&frac12; miles S.W. from St. Paul&rsquo;s Walden
+(<i><a href="#StPaulsWalden">q.v.</a></i>). The nearest station is at Luton Hoo (Beds) about 4 miles S.W.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70"></a>[Pg&nbsp;70]</span><a name="Bengeo" id="Bengeo"></a><span class="smcap">Bengeo</span> (&frac34; mile N. from Hertford) is a village between the
+rivers Beane and Rib; Ware Park is close by (N.E.). It is now in the
+borough of Hertford. The old church dedicated to St. Leonard, is Early
+Norman; there are very few churches of older foundation in
+Hertfordshire. It was restored at several times between 1884 and 1893.
+The bell in the wooden cote bears date 1636; a small Norman arch divides
+the nave from the chancel; there are lancets and a Perp. window in the
+apse. The monuments are mostly to local gentry. Eric, seventh Baron
+Reay, is buried in the tiny churchyard. The new church, erected on the
+hillside in 1855, is of Kentish rag. There are terra-cotta panels by
+Tinworth in the reredos. The walk from Bengeo to Hertford, past the
+sandy warren-hills, so beautifully clad with fir, larch, etc., with the
+Lea winding through the low meadows on the left, is one of the finest in
+the county.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Bengeo</span> (Rural) was formerly a part of the same parish as the
+above. Near by, at Chapmore End, is the Hertford County Reformatory for
+boys.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bennett&rsquo;s End</i> is the name of two small hamlets, one near Leverstock
+Green (<i><a href="#Leverstock">q.v.</a></i>) and the other near Hemel Hempstead (<i><a href="#HemelHempstead">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><a name="Bennington" id="Bennington"></a><span class="smcap">Bennington</span> (4&frac12; miles N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) was
+once the residence of Mercian kings. The village and neighbourhood are
+picturesque; the roads from Walkern, Hertford and Knebworth meet where
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71"></a>[Pg&nbsp;71]</span>a tiny triangular green is shaded by fine elms. The river Beane is 1
+mile to the W. The church is at the S. end of the village; it dates from
+the fourteenth century. The nave is wide, with clerestory; the narrow
+chancel has a chapel on the N. side. The tower is embattled, and
+contains a ring of eight bells. There are triple sedilia, and stalls of
+carved oak in the chancel; what was <i>once</i> a holy water basin is in the
+porch. Note also (1) the oaken rood-screen, surmounted by a large cross;
+(2) the memorial to the C&aelig;sar family (1622-61); (3) the (supposed) tomb
+of Sir John de Benstede (1432), a baron who sat in Parliament in the
+time of Edward II., as we learn from Dugdale&rsquo;s <i>Monasticon</i>; (4) Carved
+oak reredos. Near the churchyard a large house of red brick stands on
+the site of the castle of the Benstedes, in ruins when Chauncy wrote two
+centuries back. Bertulf, King of the Mercians, held a council here in
+850. <i>Bennington Park</i> (1&frac14; mile E.) is one of three deer parks in
+Hertfordshire which figured in <i>Domesday Book</i>.</p>
+
+<p>BERKHAMPSTEAD (Great) an interesting town in the W. of the county, is
+situated on the little river Bulbourne, and is chiefly famous as the
+birthplace of William Cowper, who was born in the rectory on 26th
+November, 1731. The Grammar School was founded by Dr. John Incent in
+1541. The castle, of which there are still ruins close to the L.&amp;N.W.R.,
+dates from before the Domesday Survey. Visitors must not expect to find
+a <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a>[Pg&nbsp;72]</span>castle here such as those at Carisbroke or Lewes. The ruins, although
+of considerable extent, are fragmentary, and little more than the plan
+of this stronghold can now be traced. The moats are double to the N.W.,
+but triple elsewhere. Henry II. held a court here; and the castle was at
+times the residence of many monarchs, particularly Edward III. The Black
+Prince was a visitor here during his father&rsquo;s reign. The Church of St.
+Peter, on the N. side of the High Street, is by local authorities
+claimed to be larger than any parish church in the county, saving only
+St. Albans Abbey; but this distinction is also claimed for St. Mary&rsquo;s,
+Hitchin. The original structure was of great antiquity, dating from
+pre-Norman times; but it was wholly rebuilt early in the reign of Henry
+III. There are chantry chapels on either side of each transept; that
+called &ldquo;St. John&rsquo;s Chantry&rdquo; dates from about 1350. Among many other
+features of interest note (1) fine groined roof of northern chantries;
+(2) lancet windows in the chancel, containing fourteenth century glass;
+(3) the E. window, a memorial to the poet Cowper; (4) tablet to Ann
+Cowper, the poet&rsquo;s mother; (5) brass to John Raven, Esquire to the Black
+Prince; (6) altar tomb to John Sayer, head cook to Charles II.; (7)
+mosaic reredos; (8) altar tomb and effigies of Richard Torrington (d.
+1356) and Margaret his wife, in N. transept. During the restoration of
+this transept in 1881 a portion of an ancient arch was discovered.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo008" name="illo008"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo008.jpg"
+      alt="CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD"
+      title="CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD"
+      height="416" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a>[Pg&nbsp;73]</span>The Grand Junction Canal is close to the river Bulbourne, and partly
+for this reason many small industries are pursued in the town, such as
+the making of straw plait, scoops and shovels of various sorts, army
+tent-pegs, etc. The present rectory is on a small hill near the church,
+to the S. of the High Street; it stands on the site of the former house,
+in which Cowper was born, and the old well-house, called &ldquo;Cowper&rsquo;s
+Well,&rdquo; may still be seen. There is a good library in the Mechanics&rsquo;
+Institute. The almshouses, for six widows, were founded in 1681, by the
+John Sayer mentioned above. The Kings of Mercia are known to have
+resided and held courts here; King Whithred summoned a council to meet
+at <i>Berghamstedt</i> in 697.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Berkhampstead, Little</span> (3 miles S. from Cole Green Station,
+G.N.R.), has a stone church erected early in the seventeenth century. It
+has a wooden belfry and spire. The building was restored in 1856-7, but
+contains little of architectural or historical interest. There are,
+however, several memorials, notably the altar table in memory of Bishop
+Ken, born in the parish in 1637. On a hill N.E. from the church stands
+the tall red-brick observatory erected by John Stratton in 1789, in
+order, as it is said, that from its summit he might watch his ships in
+the Thames. The tower has been called &ldquo;Stratton&rsquo;s Folly&rdquo;.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bernard&rsquo;s Heath.</i> (See <a href="#StAlbans">St. Albans</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Betlow</i> is a lordship of Long Marston (<i><a href="#LongMarston">q.v.</a></i>)</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo009" name="illo009"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo009.png"
+      alt="BISHOP'S STORTFORD"
+      title="BISHOP'S STORTFORD"
+      height="600" width="351"/>
+   <p class="caption">BISHOP&rsquo;S STORTFORD</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a>[Pg&nbsp;74]</span>BISHOP&rsquo;S STORTFORD is in the extreme E. of the county and on the Essex
+border. It is an ancient town, deriving its name from the ford over the
+river Stort, and from the fact that William I. gave the town to Maurice,
+Bishop of London. It is famous for its Grammar School, at which the late
+Cecil Rhodes, a native of the town, was educated. The site of Waytemore
+Castle, built by William I., is on a mound near the road to Hockeril,
+where a low, wide flint wall is partly surrounded by a moat. The church
+of St. Michael on Windhill is Perp.; it was restored in 1859. There was
+a former church on the same site; the present structure dates from say
+1420-40. The nave has six bays; the tower is pinnacled and has a ring of
+ten fine bells. Chauncy&rsquo;s book has an interesting paragraph about this
+church. &ldquo;Three Gylds and a Chantry were founded in this church; the Gyld
+of St. Mary; the Gyld of St. Michael; and the Gyld of St. John Baptist;
+to which, An. 1476, Elizabeth Spycere gave Legacies, <i>viz.</i>, to the two
+former 13s. 4d. a piece, to the last 40s. These Saints had their altars,
+and St. Michael his Tabernacle, on which much Cost had been bestowed;
+but the Chantry was founded in the time of Richard III. and the
+Settlement thereof cost much Money.&rdquo; Chancel and nave are separated by a
+screen of carved oak; the font (Norman) was discovered during the
+restoration of the church; there is a piscina in the S. aisle. The
+clerestory was added and the chancel restored in 1884; on the chancel
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75"></a>[Pg&nbsp;75]</span>floor is a brass to Lady Margaret Denny (d. 1648), &ldquo;a maid of honour in
+ordinary for five years to Queen Elizabeth of blessed memory&rdquo;. There is
+also a memorial to Sir George Duckett, Bart. (d. 1822), who increased
+the facilities for the navigation of the Stort, which is now navigable
+by barges to the town. A cattle sale is held every Thursday, which is
+market-day. The trade in malt is still very large. We read that in old
+times a cross was erected on each of the four roads leading from the
+town. The main thoroughfares are still in the form of a cross; going
+down Windhill the visitor will find a bridge over the Stort before him,
+and a main street on either side. The town can boast several of the
+finest old inns in Herts.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Boreham Wood</span> (1&frac14; mile N.E. from Elstree) is a large and rather
+prettily situated hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bourne End</i>, 1 mile W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&amp;N.W.R., contains little
+more than an inn, a coffee-room, and a few cottages standing beside the
+Grand Junction Canal.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Bovingdon" id="Bovingdon"></a><span class="smcap">Bovingdon</span> (2&frac12; miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station) is a large
+village, built on the slopes of two hills, the centre of the village
+being in the depression between them. The church dates from the end of
+the eleventh century, but was rebuilt in 1846 in a Gothic style, with
+pinnacled W. tower. Note (1) the effigy of an armoured knight under the
+tower, dating from perhaps the middle of the fourteenth century; (2)
+brasses to the Mayne family (1621-42). Some traces <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a>[Pg&nbsp;76]</span>of a Roman
+encampment and villa are shown on inquiry at a spot near the village.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bowman&rsquo;s Green</i> (&frac14; mile N.E. from London Colney and 2 miles S. from
+Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a tiny hamlet near the river Colne and the
+high road from Barnet to St. Albans.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Boxmoor" id="Boxmoor"></a><span class="smcap">Boxmoor</span> is a village about 1&frac12; mile S.W. from Hemel Hempstead.
+The Grand Junction Canal flows between the village and the town. From
+the station, L.&amp;N.W.R., a motor car plies to and from Hemel Hempstead.
+Many Roman remains have been found in the neighbourhood, particularly
+some remains of two Roman villas, and many coins of the period of
+Diocletian. The church, erected in 1874, is E.E. in design, and was
+planned by Mr. Norman Shaw. It has N. and S. aisles and porches. There
+was an earlier structure on the same site. Private residences are
+increasing so rapidly that the place is now almost a suburb of Hemel
+Hempstead.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boydon&rsquo;s Hill</i> adjoins the village of Aldenham.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bragbury End</i> (1&frac14; mile E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+on the Great North Road.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Bramfield" id="Bramfield"></a><span class="smcap">Bramfield or Braintfield</span> (3&frac12; miles N.W. from Hertford Station,
+G.N.R.) is a parish and village. The church is E.E., standing on the
+site of an earlier edifice; the present tower and spire were built in
+1840, and the church itself restored in 1870. We learn from Matthew of
+Westminster that Thomas Becket <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a>[Pg&nbsp;77]</span>held the living here as his first
+charge; a pond near the church is called &ldquo;Becket&rsquo;s Pond&rdquo;. <i>Queen Hoo
+Hall</i>, N.W. from the village, is now a farmhouse, but was formerly an
+Elizabethan residence, and gave the title to a romance partly written by
+Sir Walter Scott. The neighbourhood is pleasant, and a pretty stroll may
+be taken either N.E. to Woodhall Park or S. to Panshanger Park.</p>
+
+<p><i>Brandley Hill</i> is 1 mile N.W. from Aston.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Braughing" id="Braughing"></a><span class="smcap">Braughing</span> has a station &frac34; mile S.W. from the town, on the
+Buntingford Branch of G.E.R. It is an ancient parish, the &ldquo;Brachinges&rdquo;
+of <i>Domesday Book</i>, and was a Roman station. The church and few streets
+of which the village consists are very picturesquely scattered on the
+S.W. slope of a hill overlooking the river Quin, at the intersection of
+the Roman Ermine Street and the road from Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford to Baldock.
+There was formerly a market each week, dating from the reign of Stephen;
+also an annual fair, abolished many years ago. The church, close to the
+hand-bridge over the river, is largely Perp., and contains a few
+brasses, none of which are important. It has been partially restored on
+several occasions during the last eighty years, and some of the modern
+workmanship is very good. Note (1) open tracery in carved oak screen;
+(2) oak pulpit; (3) finely carved font of Caen stone; (4) old font
+outside, near the tower. At <i>Cockhampstead</i> (1&frac12; mile E. from the church)
+was once an Augustinian priory.</p>
+
+<p><i>Breachwood Green</i> (about 3&frac12; miles N.E. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a>[Pg&nbsp;78]</span>from Luton Hoo Station, G.N.R.,
+and 1 mile S. from King&rsquo;s Walden Church) is a village on high ground
+rather more than a mile from the Bedfordshire border. Pretty walks may
+be taken S.E. to Bendish or S.W. to Chiltern Green.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Brent Pelham</span> (1 mile from Essex border and 5 miles E. from
+Buntingford) is an interesting village, formerly called Burnt Pelham
+because, as tradition states, both village and church were destroyed by
+fire during the reign of Henry I. Traces of the fire existed in the days
+of Norden (<i>circa</i> 1548-1626). The church&mdash;near which the old stocks may
+still be seen&mdash;is E.E., with the embattled western tower so frequent in
+Herts. It is locally famous for a tomb in the N. wall, said to mark the
+resting-place of one Piers Shonkes, a serpent slayer who lived in the
+time of William I. The tomb bears some allegorical figures, which have
+been the subject of diverse interpretations. <i>Pelham Hall</i> (E. E.
+Barclay, Esq.), &ldquo;a slight but well contrived House in this Mannor, near
+the Church,&rdquo; was built in 1620 by one Edward Newport. It was once owned
+by the Floyers or Flyers, a family to whose memory there are several
+memorials in the church.</p>
+
+<p><i>Brickendon</i> is now partly included in the borough of Hertford. There
+are some imposing residences in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Bricket Wood</span> is almost exactly midway between St. Albans and
+Watford; it consists of some cottages scattered around an extensive
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a>[Pg&nbsp;79]</span>wood and common, crossed by L.&amp;N.W.R. The station is &frac12; mile from the
+&ldquo;wood,&rdquo; which is much frequented by picnic parties, school treats, etc.
+The district is good ground for the field botanist and entomologist.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broadfield</i> (2&frac14; miles N.W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet near Cottered,
+on the hill N. from that village. The hall was once a much larger
+structure (engraved in Chauncy, vol. i.); it was in part rebuilt in
+1882, but still retains a portion believed to date from the fifteenth
+century.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broadwater</i> is a hamlet at the meeting of the roads from Stevenage,
+Hatfield and Hertford. The nearest station is Knebworth (1&frac14; mile S.).</p>
+
+<p><a name="Broadway" id="Broadway"></a><i>Broadway</i> (1&frac12; mile S.E. from Berkhampstead) has a Dec. chapel-of-ease
+to the parish church. It was erected in 1854. A short walk takes one to
+the ruined chapel of St. Mary Magdalen on the Bucks border.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bromley</i> (1&frac12; mile S.E. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) is a small hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broomin Green</i> (&frac34; mile S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+near the railway and &frac12; mile from the Six Hills. (See <a href="#Stevenage">Stevenage</a>.)</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo010" name="illo010"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo010.png"
+      alt="BROXBOURNE CHURCH"
+      title="BROXBOURNE CHURCH"
+      height="600" width="346"/>
+   <p class="caption">BROXBOURNE CHURCH</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><a name="Broxbourne" id="Broxbourne"></a><span class="smcap">Broxbourne</span>, a large village near the river Lea and New River,
+is a favourite fishing resort. The church stands on high ground
+overlooking the mill-leat; it is a fine Perp. structure, dating from
+early in the fifteenth century. The N. chancel-chapel was built by Sir
+William Say, &ldquo;in honor a ye Trenete the yere of our Lord God 1522&rdquo;; his
+tomb is in the chancel. The <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a>[Pg&nbsp;80]</span>church was restored in 1857; the roof is of
+fine oak panelling; the font, on eight pillars, is probably Early
+Norman. There are brasses to a priest holding a chalice (<i>circa</i> 1470);
+to another priest in robes (<i>circa</i> 1510); to Sir John Borrell, mace
+bearer to Henry VIII. (d. 1521); to Sir John Say (d. 1478), and his wife
+(d. 1473). Note also (1) holy water basin near door; (2) marble effigies
+of Sir Henry Cock (d. 1609), and his wife and family; (3) shield of arms
+in centre of nave, with verses in English, bearing date 1630. From the
+church a very picturesque walk may be taken through the village, to
+Hoddesdon, by way of &ldquo;Admiral&rsquo;s Walk,&rdquo; or beside the Lea past the
+grounds of the Crown Hotel. <i>Broxbournebury</i> (Major G. R. B.
+Smith-Bosanquet, J.P.) is in the beautiful park, 1 mile W., and is a
+large imposing mansion in Jacobean style. In Church Fields and on the
+London Road are large rose-nurseries, producing an immense number of
+roses yearly. The neighbourhood is one of the most pleasant in the
+county.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Buckland" id="Buckland"></a><span class="smcap">Buckland</span> (3 miles N. from Buntingford, on the Royston Road) has
+an E.E. church, built by Nicholas de Bokeland in 1348. The piscina at
+the E. end of the S. aisle marks the site of what was formerly the
+lady-chapel. The font is very possibly anterior to the Conquest; it is a
+roughly hewn mass of Barnack stone. The low window in the S. wall of the
+chancel was opened out during some renovations, and is thought to have
+been connected with a confessional, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a>[Pg&nbsp;81]</span>as a coloured figure of the Virgin
+was discovered on the wall. The theory, however, may be dismissed as
+purely mythical. There is a brass to William Langley, a rector of the
+church (d. 1478); a low-relief medallion by Chantrey to William Anthony
+(d. 1819), and a brass to one of the Boteler family (1451). The interior
+was restored in 1875; the new W. door, of oak, was added in 1881.</p>
+
+<p><i>Buck&rsquo;s Hill</i> (2 miles S.W. from King&rsquo;s Langley Station, L.&amp;N.W.R.) is a
+pretty hamlet. The nearest parish church is about 1&frac14; mile N.E. at
+Chipperfield (<i><a href="#Chipperfield">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><a name="Bulbourne" id="Bulbourne"></a><span class="smcap">Bulbourne</span>, river. (See <a href="#Rivers">Introduction</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Bull&rsquo;s Green</i> is 2&frac14; miles N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bull&rsquo;s Mill</i> is 2&frac12; miles N. from Hertford.</p>
+
+<p>BUNTINGFORD, a small town on the river Rib, on the Royston-Cambridge
+Road, consists chiefly of the long High Street and of a few small
+by-ways, E. by the river side, and W. on the roads to Aspenden and
+Cottered. Standing across the High Street is the cruciform church of St.
+Peter, built in 1614-26 as a chapel-of-ease to Layston (<i><a href="#Layston">q.v.</a></i>). An old
+brass tablet still preserved represents the holding of a Divine service
+in the church before completion. There is also a portrait of Seth Ward
+(see <a href="#Aspenden">Aspenden</a>); the almshouses a few yards W. were founded by him in
+1684. &ldquo;This town,&rdquo; wrote Chauncy, &ldquo;is of small antiquity, for there is
+no mention of it in Domesdei Book, neither can I find anything of it
+before Anno. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82"></a>[Pg&nbsp;82]</span>21. Edwd. III., when that King did grant one Market every
+Week, and one Fair every Year in Buntingford, to Elizabeth de Burgo and
+her Heirs, reserving the Yearly Rent of 6d.&rdquo; At the N. end of High
+Street is the old pound. <i>Corney Bury</i> (&frac12; mile N.) is a fine old manor
+house. Little of historic importance is to be gleaned in the town, but a
+ramble from end to end is interesting by reason of the many quaint inns
+and cottages, of all ages and styles, which meet the eye at every turn.</p>
+
+<p><i>Burnham Green</i> is a hamlet 1&frac14; mile N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bury Green</i> (1&frac12; mile W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a small
+hamlet near Theobald&rsquo;s Park; also</p>
+
+<p><i>Bury Green</i>, a hamlet 2&frac12; miles W. from Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bury Hill and Bury Mill.</i> (See <a href="#HemelHempstead">Hemel Hempstead</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Bury Stede.</i> (See <a href="#Hexton">Hexton</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Bush Barrow</i> is 1&frac14; mile N. from Wallington, on Metley Hill, midway
+between the village and the Icknield Way.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Bushey" id="Bushey"></a><span class="smcap">Bushey</span> is a large village, now practically the S.E. suburb of
+Watford. The station (L.&amp;N.W.R.) is in the hollow between the village
+itself and High Street, Watford; cyclists must be careful of the descent
+towards that town. Near the centre of the village is a small green and
+pond, and here stands the partly Dec. church of St. James, rebuilt in
+1871 by Sir Gilbert Scott. The E.E. window, triple <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a>[Pg&nbsp;83]</span>lancet, is to the
+memory of Edwards Marjoribanks of the Hall (d. 1879) and his wife. Silas
+Titus, whose name is remembered for his supposed authorship of the
+notorious pamphlet <i>Killing noe Murder</i>, was born at Bushey and buried
+in this church; there is a headstone to his daughter in the graveyard.</p>
+
+<p><a name="BusheyHeath" id="BusheyHeath"></a><span class="smcap">Bushey Heath</span> (1 mile S.E. from the above) is on the Middlesex
+border. It is now an ecclesiastical district, formed in 1889; the
+church, an E.E. brick structure, dates from 1838; the porches were added
+in 1882. The district is very healthy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bushey, Little</i>, is E. from Bushey Heath, which it almost joins.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bushey Mill</i> is on the river Colne, &frac34; mile N.E. from Watford Junction.</p>
+
+<p><i>Butchery Green.</i> (See <a href="#Hertford">Hertford</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><a name="Bygrave" id="Bygrave"></a><span class="smcap">Bygrave</span> (1&frac34; mile N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.) has a small
+church built of clunch from the Ashwell pits near by. It dates from
+perhaps 1320. Note (1) octagonal font (about 1420-40), (2) slab on floor
+to a former rector, a Huguenot (d. 1725), and (3) the piscina in
+chancel. Close by, at the Manor House, are the remains of some moats
+constructed five centuries ago by the resident knight, Sir John
+Thornbury, because of the many marauders that infested the
+neighbourhood. The place was once a market-town; the market, granted by
+Henry III., was held each Monday. The village lies on high ground, a few
+minutes&rsquo; walk N. from the Icknield Way.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>[Pg&nbsp;84]</span><a name="Caldecote" id="Caldecote"></a><span class="smcap">Caldecote</span> (about 3 miles N.N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.)
+has a Perp. church of rubble, containing a few memorials, a very finely
+canopied holy water basin, and a font dating from, say, 1480.</p>
+
+<p><i>Caldicot Hill</i> is 1 mile E. from Bushey Heath, on the Middlesex border.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Cassiobury Park.</span> (See <a href="#Watford">Watford</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Catlip</i> is a hamlet near Chorley Wood Station, Met.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chandler&rsquo;s Cross</i> (2&frac12; miles S.W. from King&rsquo;s Langley Station,
+L.&amp;N.W.R.) is a small hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chapmore End</i> is 2&frac12; miles N. from Hertford.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chelsing</i> is near the river Rib, 3 miles N. from Ware.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cherry Green</i> (1 mile S.W. from West Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a small
+hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Cheshunt" id="Cheshunt"></a><span class="smcap">Cheshunt</span>, according to Grose&rsquo;s <i>Antiquities</i>, the <i>Durolitum</i>
+of Antoninus, is a large parish which contains much of interest. Its
+ancient names, Cestre, Ceaster, Cestrehunt, leave little doubt that it
+was a Roman station.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnnum">[3]</a> At Roman Urn Inn, near the station, G.E.R., is
+an urn imbedded in the wall; it was discovered close by some years ago,
+and is probably of Roman manufacture. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a>[Pg&nbsp;85]</span>Cheston, yet another old name of
+this spot, has been thought to be derived from the chestnut trees once
+plentiful in the neighbourhood, of which many of the houses were built.
+William I. gave the manor to Alan the Red, Earl of Brittany, and it
+remained an appendage to that earldom for a long time. Edward III.
+granted a weekly market to be held in the town every Monday. The Church
+of St. Mary the Virgin was built in 1420 by Nicholas Dixon, who held the
+living of Cheshunt for thirty years. It is Perp., entirely embattled;
+the W. tower has an octagonal cupola. Restoration was carefully effected
+during 1872-4, under Mr. G. F. Bodley. The rood-screen, lectern and
+pulpit are of carved oak, all comparatively new. The memorials are very
+numerous; amongst them may be noted (1) brass on chancel floor to the
+above-mentioned Nicholas Dixon (d. 1448); (2) brass to William Pyke (d.
+1449); (3) two female effigies, 1500-20; (4) altar tomb in chancel to
+Robert Dacres, Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. There are windows of
+stained glass to a former vicar (d. 1858); to General Miles (d. 1860),
+and, in the tower, to one Robert Archer, for thirty-six years parish
+clerk. N. from the main street, near the river Lea, stood a small
+Benedictine nunnery. It originally belonged to the Canons of Cathele,
+but Henry III. turned them out and gave the property and rights to the
+&ldquo;Prioress and Nuns of Cesthont&rdquo;. The college, a famous institution,
+stands near the church; it was founded in 1768 by Selina, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a>[Pg&nbsp;86]</span>Countess of
+Huntingdon, at Trevecca, near Talgarth, S. Wales, and removed to
+Cheshunt after her death. A few years ago it was bought by the Church of
+England, for use as a theological college. Close by, too, is the site of
+Pengelly House, once the home of Richard Cromwell. Cheshunt Park (1 mile
+N.) is full of memories of the Cromwells and the Russells. The Great
+House, near Church Gate, was one of the many residences of Cardinal
+Wolsey. Both the house and the moat are still preserved.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Chess" id="Chess"></a><span class="smcap">Chess</span>, river. (See <a href="#Rivers">Introduction</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Cheverell&rsquo;s Green</i> (1&frac12; mile N.W. from Flamstead, and about 4 miles N.W.
+from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet and green adjoining
+Beechwood Park.</p>
+
+<p><i>Childwick Green</i> is 1 mile S. from Harpenden Common, and 2&frac12; miles N.
+from St. Albans.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Chipperfield" id="Chipperfield"></a><span class="smcap">Chipperfield</span> (2&frac12; miles W. from King&rsquo;s Langley Station,
+L.&amp;N.W.R.) was made an ecclesiastical parish in 1863. The small church
+on the common, E.E. in style, built in 1837, is of little interest.
+There is a good lich-gate at the N. entrance to the churchyard. The
+neighbourhood is pleasant and varied.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chipping</i> (2 miles N. from Buntingford) is a small village on the
+Royston Road.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chivesfield (or Chesfield)</i> is 2 miles N.E. from Stevenage Station,
+G.N.R. It is locally famous for its ruined church. One John Wykins was
+rector here as early as 1323. The <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a>[Pg&nbsp;87]</span>windows were partly destroyed in
+1642. Some interesting memorials were extant in Chauncy&rsquo;s day, and are
+mentioned in the second volume of his <i>Antiquities</i>.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo011" name="illo011"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo011.jpg"
+      alt="CHORLEY WOOD COMMON"
+      title="CHORLEY WOOD COMMON"
+      height="357" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">CHORLEY WOOD COMMON</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Chorley Wood</span>, a village 2&frac12; miles N.W. from Rickmansworth, has a
+station on the Met.R. near the Amersham Road. The church, E.E. in style,
+dates from 1845, but was largely rebuilt in 1870. William Penn, the
+Quaker, was married here. There are many pretty walks through the Valley
+of the Chess, which flows between the village and Sarratt (<i><a href="#Sarratt">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><i>Church End</i> is a small hamlet in the parish of Albury, 3 miles E. from
+Braughing Station, G.E.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Clapgate</i>, a hamlet on the river Ash, is close to Church End.</p>
+
+<p><i>Clay End</i> (1&frac12; mile S.E. from Walkern) is about equidistant&mdash;5
+miles&mdash;from Stevenage or Westmill Stations.</p>
+
+<p><i>Clay Hill</i> is on the high road between Bushey and Bushey Heath
+(<i><a href="#BusheyHeath">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><a name="Clothall" id="Clothall"></a><span class="smcap">Clothall</span> (2&frac14; miles S.E. from Baldock) has an interesting
+church, chiefly Perp., on a gentle hill. There is a good brass in the
+chancel to John Vynter, first rector of the church (d. 1404), and one to
+John Wright, Master of Trinity College, Cambridge, also rector here (d.
+1519). On the S. of the church is a small Dec. chantry chapel. Note also
+a sixteenth century brass to the wife and sixteen children of William
+Bramfield of Clothall. The Saxons are said to have called the spot Cley
+Hall, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a>[Pg&nbsp;88]</span>because it stood on a hill of clay. Clothall Bury is a little to
+the E.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cockernhoe Green</i> is 2&frac12; miles S.W. from Offley, and 2&frac12; miles N.E. from
+Luton Station (Beds).</p>
+
+<p><i>Cockhampstead</i> (2 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) is near
+Albury Hall.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Codicote" id="Codicote"></a><span class="smcap">Codicote</span> (3 miles N.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) is a large
+village on the Welwyn-Hitchin Road, with a pleasant heath a little W.
+The Church of St. Giles is an ancient structure, E.E., restored in 1853;
+it stands in a field &frac12; mile N. from the village. The S. chapel dates
+from 1312. The embattled W. tower is a fine structure. There are several
+memorial windows, comparatively modern.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Cole Green</span> has a station on the G.N.R. branch line from
+Hatfield to Hertford. From the station little is to be seen except the
+Cowper&rsquo;s Arms and a few cottages.</p>
+
+<p><i>Coleman&rsquo;s Green</i> (1&frac12; mile S.E. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.) is
+prettily situated near the &ldquo;Devil&rsquo;s Dyke&rdquo; and Brocket Hall. John Bunyan
+sometimes preached in a cottage here; a large chimney-stack, bearing an
+inscription, still marks the spot, unless quite recently removed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Collier&rsquo;s End</i> is on high ground, on the Old North Road, 2 miles S.W.
+from Standon Station, G.E.R. It is a very typical English hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Colne" id="Colne"></a><span class="smcap">Colne</span>, river. (See <a href="#Rivers">Introduction</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Colney Heath</span> (1 mile S. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is an
+ecclesiastical parish. The <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a>[Pg&nbsp;89]</span>brick church (1844) is in Byzantine style;
+it has an apsidal chancel, and small N. porch and tower. The new West
+Herts County Asylum is close by.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Colney Street</span>, on the main road from Radlett to St. Albans,
+forms an almost equilateral triangle with Park Street and Bricket Wood
+Stations, L.&amp;N.W.R. It is only a few minutes&rsquo; walk from the pretty
+church at Frogmore (<i><a href="#Frogmore">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><i>Common Moor</i> may be visited from Croxley Green (&frac34; mile N.E. from
+Rickmansworth) for an inspection of its large paper mill.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cooter&rsquo;s End</i> is a tiny hamlet close to the M.R. on the Bedfordshire
+border.</p>
+
+<p><i>Corey&rsquo;s Mill</i>, a hamlet 1 mile N. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R., is
+named from an old mill, burnt in 1878.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Cottered" id="Cottered"></a><span class="smcap">Cottered</span> (3 miles W. from Buntingford) has a fine old church
+(Perp.). There is a chapel on the N. side of the chancel erected by
+Edward Pulter; the W. tower is embattled and carries a lofty spire.
+Several memorials to the Pulter and Forester families are of the
+seventeenth century. The church was restored in 1886. In the days of
+William I. the <i>vill</i> of Chodrei belonged to Walchelin, Bishop of
+Winchester. <i>Cottered Lordship</i>, a farmhouse near the village, is one of
+the very oldest dwellings in the county. The writer is assured by an
+expert that the front door dates from 1450-80!</p>
+
+<p><i>Cromer</i>, a hamlet 5 miles S.W. from Buntingford, is prettily situated
+in a valley, in a purely agricultural district.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>[Pg&nbsp;90]</span><i>Cromer Hyde</i> (1&frac12; mile S. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) consists of a
+farmhouse, the Chequer&rsquo;s Inn, and a few old and picturesque cottages.
+The nearest church is &frac12; mile S.E. at the corner of Brocket Hall Park.</p>
+
+<p><i>Croxley Green</i> (&frac34; mile N.E. from Rickmansworth) is an ecclesiastical
+parish near the river Chess. The church, built fifty years ago, is late
+E.E. in style and has some good memorial windows.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cuffley</i> is a small hamlet about midway between Cheshunt and Potter&rsquo;s
+Bar (Middlesex) Stations, but a little N. from the straight line. The
+Church of St. James at Goff&rsquo;s Oak (<i><a href="#GoffsOak">q.v.</a></i>) is 1 mile E.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cumberlow Green</i> is 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford.</p>
+
+<p><i>Currants Bottom</i>, on the Bucks border, is close to Chorley Wood
+Station, Met.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Dane End</i>, or Munden Street, is 4 miles S.W. from Standon Station,
+G.E.R. The nearest church (&frac12; mile N.) is at Little Munden.</p>
+
+<p><i>Dane End</i>, 4 miles S. from Royston, is close to the Old North Road.
+There are a few cottages and two farms.</p>
+
+<p><i>Dassells</i> is a hamlet on the Old North Road, 1 mile E. from Westmill
+Station, G.E.R. The little river Quin flows close by.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Datchworth" id="Datchworth"></a><span class="smcap">Datchworth</span> (1&frac12; mile S.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) has a
+church with some Norman portions. Its spire is conspicuous for miles
+round. The larger portion is, however, Dec. Note (1) some good stained
+glass windows <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a>[Pg&nbsp;91]</span>in chancel; (2) chalice dated 1630. The church was
+restored in 1869-70. The place is very ancient; we read that four hides
+of land at <i>Decewyrth</i> were granted by an early Saxon king to the
+Monastery of St. Peter at Westminster, and that in the reign of Edward
+III. Thomas de la Mere, Abbot of St. Albans, transferred the patronage
+of this church to the king.</p>
+
+<p><i>Dean End</i> (&frac34; mile S. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Delamore End</i> is &frac12; mile E. from Flamstead, and near the high road to
+Dunstable. The nearest railway station is Redbourn, 2&frac12; miles S.E.</p>
+
+<p><i>Digswell</i>, a village on the river Maran, is &frac12; mile S.W. from Welwyn
+Station, G.N.R. Looking E. the visitor will notice the Great Northern
+Viaduct over the Maran Valley&mdash;a truly magnificent structure of forty
+arches. The church, beautifully situated on the hill, <a name="cm8" id="cm8"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr8"
+title="Original reads 'in'">is</a> E.E. It
+contains a large but much mutilated brass to John Perient, Master of the
+Horse to Joan of Navarre and Esquire to Richard II., Henry IV. and Henry
+V. This interesting inscription being much defaced I will transcribe
+from Chauncy: &ldquo;Hic jacet Johannes Perient, Armiger pro corpore Regis
+Richardi Secundi, et Penerarius ejusdem Regis, et Armiger. Regis Henrici
+Quarti, et Armiger etiam Regis Henrici Quinti et Magister Equitum
+Johann&aelig;, fili&aelig; Regis Navarr, et Regi&aelig; Angli&aelig; qui obiit&mdash;et Johanna uxor
+ejus quondam capitalis Domicilla<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a>[Pg&nbsp;92]</span>&mdash;qu&aelig; obiit 24 Aprilis Anno Dom. 1415.&rdquo;
+Note also brasses (1) to John Perient, son of the above (d. 1442); (2)
+William Robert, auditor of the diocese of Winchester (d. 1484); (3) to a
+civilian, his wife, and ten children (<i>circa</i> 1530); (4) to Thomas
+Hoore, a mercer of London, his wife, and twelve children. The church was
+restored in 1872.</p>
+
+<p><i>Digswell Water</i> is a hamlet &frac12; mile E. from Digswell Church, and close
+to Welwyn Station.</p>
+
+<p><i>Down Green</i> is &frac12; mile W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Driver&rsquo;s End</i>, a hamlet 2 miles W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R., is
+on the S.W. confines of Knebworth Park. One mile S. is the village of
+Codicote. The neighbourhood is very pleasant.</p>
+
+<p><i>Dudswell</i>, a few cottages on the Grand Junction Canal, is &frac12; mile N.W.
+from Northchurch village, and 2 miles N.W. from Berkhampstead Station,
+L.&amp;N.W.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>East End</i> (1 mile S.E. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.) is between
+Panshanger Park and the River Lea. There is also a hamlet of the same
+name on the Essex border, about 5 miles N.E. from Braughing Station,
+G.E.R.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Eastwick" id="Eastwick"></a><span class="smcap">Eastwick</span> (1 mile N.W. from Burnt Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a
+parish near the Essex border, on the river Stort. The church, rebuilt in
+1873, is in E.E. style. It is locally famous for its recumbent statue of
+a knight in chain armour, resting on a raised slab; the legs are
+crossed. There is neither date nor name; but <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a>[Pg&nbsp;93]</span>it has been surmised (1)
+that the crossing of the legs shows that he was probably a crusader, (2)
+that the effigy dates from early in the thirteenth century and
+represents a member of the De Toni or De Ros family. The former
+conjecture is undoubtedly erroneous. There is a piscina in the chancel.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Elstree" id="Elstree"></a><span class="smcap">Elstree</span>, formerly Idlestree, is a large village beautifully
+situated on the Middlesex border; the station (M.R.) is to the N.E. at
+Boreham Wood. At the N. end of the street a fine view stretches in the
+direction of Radlett and St. Albans. The Church of St. Nicholas was
+founded by the Benedictine monks of St. Albans in the fourteenth
+century; the present structure is Dec. and dates from 1853. The
+monuments are unimportant; but the wrought-iron chancel screen, designed
+by Sir A. W. Blomfield, is worthy of careful scrutiny, as is also the
+vestry screen of carved oak. The five-light E. window was presented by
+the pupil of a former rector, John Morris, D.D. (d. 1848), to whom it is
+a memorial. In the old churchyard, closed some years ago, was buried the
+notorious robber and reputed murderer William Weare, who was murdered by
+Thurtell on Gill&rsquo;s Hill, 2&frac12; miles N.W., in 1823. Here, too, was buried
+Martha Reay, whose life was a chronicle of crime; she was mistress to
+the Earl of Sandwich, and was killed on leaving Covent Garden Theatre,
+in 1779. There is excellent fishing to be had at Elstree Reservoir, a
+little W., in Aldenham parish. Some arch&aelig;ologists have thought that <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a>[Pg&nbsp;94]</span>the
+Roman city <i>Sulloniac&aelig;</i> occupied (approximately) the site on which
+Elstree stands, and Norden lent his authority to this hypothesis; but
+there is little doubt that Brockley Hill near Edgware more closely
+corresponds in position with the city mentioned in the <i>Itinerary</i> of
+Antoninus.</p>
+
+<p><i>Epping Green</i>, a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Little Berkhampstead, is at
+the N. end of Punsborne Park. The nearest station is Cole Green
+(G.N.R.), nearly 4 miles N.W.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Essendon" id="Essendon"></a><span class="smcap">Essendon</span> is a pretty village on rising ground overlooking the
+Valley of the Lea, 2 miles S. from Cole Green Station. The church,
+standing in the park, was rebuilt in 1883; it was probably founded as
+early as the twelfth century. It is now of flint, dressed with ancaster
+stone. Note (1) alabaster monument to William Priestly (d. 1664); (2)
+brass and effigy of William Tooke, auditor of the Court of Wards and
+Liveries (d. 1588); (3) shields from the tomb of Henry Courtenay, son of
+Henry, Marquess of Exeter; (4) chalice bearing date 1570, given to the
+church by Elizabeth Reynes; (5) Baskerville Bible presented by the First
+Marquess of Salisbury. During restoration several slabs to the Tooke
+family (1635-55) were discovered. <i>Essendon Place</i> (David Citroen, Esq.)
+is a fine house in a park of 100 acres; and <i>Bedwell Park</i> (C. G.
+Arbuthnot, Esq.) should be visited, by special permission, to view the
+Belvedere Collection, including one of Murillo&rsquo;s many &ldquo;Assumptions&rdquo;.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>[Pg&nbsp;95]</span><i>Exnells</i>, near the river Ash, is a small hamlet 2 miles N.E. from
+Hadham Station, G.E.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fanham Hall</i> is 1 mile N.E. from Ware.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fisher&rsquo;s Green</i> (&frac12; mile N.W. from Stevenage) is a small hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Flamstead</i> (2&frac12; miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) lies on high
+ground near the river Ver. The name is a corruption of Verlamstead, the
+river having formerly been called the &ldquo;Verlam&rdquo;. The church is in the
+centre of the village; it is a large Dec. structure dating from the
+fourteenth century; the nave is of six bays, with fine octagonal
+pillars. The tower is very large and massive. Note (1) piscina in W.
+wall of vestry, once a chapel; (2) piscina in chancel; (3) finely carved
+oak chancel screen, dating from fifteenth century but restored in 1893;
+(4) mutilated altar-tomb in nave, carved and crocketted, but bearing no
+inscription, it is probably not later than 1400-20; (5) marble monument,
+with Ionic columns, to Thomas Saunders of Beechwood; (6) brass to John
+Oudeby, rector of the church (d. 1414); (7) effigy in armour to Sir
+Bartholomew Fouke, Kt., for many years Master of the Household to Queen
+Elizabeth (d. 1604). At <i>Beechwood Park</i>, so called because of the many
+fine beeches in the neighbourhood, was once a Benedictine Nunnery. The
+walk from Flamstead to Great Gaddesden, by way of Beechwood Park (about
+6 miles), is very picturesque.</p>
+
+<p><i>Flamstead Bury</i> is 1 mile W. from Redbourn <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a>[Pg&nbsp;96]</span>Station, M.R., and midway
+between the N. end of the village and a spot called Heaven&rsquo;s Gate.</p>
+
+<p><i>Flamstead End</i> (1&frac12; mile N.W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a
+considerable hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Flaunden</i> (4 miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&amp;N.W.R.) is a village
+and parish on the Bucks border, with the river Chess 1&frac14; mile S. The
+present church is modern, and local folk claim that it is the first
+built by the late Sir Gilbert Scott. The font, and a few tiles, etc.,
+were brought here from the old church at Flaunden Bottom near Chenies,
+some ruins of which still remain. Chauncy tells us that Flaunden
+belonged to the manor of Hemel Hempstead, that it was granted to one
+Thomas Flaunden, who built a small church in the valley near the river
+(Chess) with a small tower of timber at the W. end. Spiritual offices
+were performed by a curate supplied from Hemel Hempstead, who served
+Bovingdon and Flaunden by turns as duty required.</p>
+
+<p><i>Folly, The</i> (a small hamlet 1 mile N.W. from Wheathampstead Station,
+G.N.R.), is passed on the way to Harpenden or Mackery End. A little
+farther W. is Batford Mill on the river Lea.</p>
+
+<p><i>Frithsden</i> (or <i>Friesden</i>), a hamlet 2 miles N.E. from Great
+Berkhampstead, stands in a beautiful district, with Ashridge Park to the
+N.W. The nearest church is at the pretty village of Nettleden (<i><a href="#Nettleden">q.v.</a></i>) &frac12;
+mile N.E. High Park Road, Evesden Wood, Marigold Wood, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a>[Pg&nbsp;97]</span>Holly Bush Wood
+and Frithsden copses are all adjacent and may be visited during an
+hour&rsquo;s ramble.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Frogmore" id="Frogmore"></a><span class="smcap">Frogmore</span> (&frac34; mile S.E. from Park Street Station, L.&amp;N.W.R.) is a
+hamlet between the villages of Park Street and Colney Street. The church
+is modern, in late Norman style; it stands close to the high road from
+Radlett to St. Albans. There are several memorial windows to local
+persons. The village flower show has been held for many years in July,
+and is well patronised and widely known. The river Colne flows between
+this hamlet and Park Street Station.</p>
+
+<p><a name="FurnPelham" id="FurnPelham"></a><span class="smcap">Furneaux Pelham</span> (4 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.)
+has an interesting E.E. and Perp. church. One of the six bells in the
+embattled W. tower dates from before the Reformation; it bears, in
+black-letter, the words &ldquo;Sancta Katarina ora pro nobis&rdquo;; upon the clock
+in the tower are the words: &ldquo;Time flies. Mind your business.&rdquo; Note (1)
+piscina and sedilia in chancel; (2) piscina in each aisle; (3) Newport
+Chapel adjoining S. aisle, built by the Robert Newport whose brass and
+effigy is in the nave (d. 1518); (4) brass (mutilated) in chapel,
+representing two figures, <i>temp.</i> Richard II.; (5) ambry (lancet headed)
+in chancel; (6) three ancient stone coffins, discovered during
+restoration, one bearing the words: &ldquo;Simonis de Furneaux Filius&rdquo;. The De
+Furneaux were a Norman family, to whom the village owes its name: Simon
+de Furneaux <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a>[Pg&nbsp;98]</span>was lord of the manor in the reign of Edward I. Close to
+the church is <i>Furneaux Pelham Hall</i> (recently unoccupied), a fine
+Elizabethan mansion whose owners suffered several misfortunes during the
+civil wars.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Gaddesden, Great</span> (3 miles N.W. from Hemel Hempstead), is a
+village on the river Gade at the foot of the hill that leads to
+Nettleden. The church is close to the river side, and immediately behind
+the <i>Cock and Bottle Inn</i>. It is an ancient structure of &ldquo;Roman bricks&rdquo;
+and flint (E.E.), believed to date from, say, 1290; the tower was
+rebuilt in 1862. There are many memorials to the Halsey family, but few
+others of any interest. <i>Gaddesden Place</i>, in a park &frac12; mile E., is the
+seat of Rt. Hon. T. F. Halsey, Esq., D.L., J.P. It was built from
+designs by Wyatt, in 1774, in an Italian style.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Gaddesden, Little</span> (4 miles N. from Berkhampstead Station,
+L.&amp;N.W.R.), is a straggling village on the confines of Ashridge Park.
+Pretty cottages and tastefully planned gardens meet the eye everywhere.
+The church is Perp. and contains many monuments to the Egerton family,
+Earls of Bridgewater: (1) Sir John Egerton, Kt. (d. 1649); (2) Lady
+Frances, Countess of Bridgewater (d. 1635); (3) John, Viscount Brackley,
+Lord of the Privy Council (d. 1686); (4) Elizabeth, Countess of
+Bridgewater, a &ldquo;transcendently virtuous lady&rdquo; of &ldquo;beauty so unparallel&rsquo;d
+that &rsquo;tis as much beyond the art of the most elegant pen, as it
+surpasseth the skill of several of the most exquisite pencils <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a>[Pg&nbsp;99]</span>... to
+describe and not disparage it&rdquo; (d. 1663); (5) Ann, Lady Egerton (d.
+1625); (6) Francis, third Duke of Bridgewater (d. 1803). The latter was
+styled the Father of British Inland Navigation; and the tall column near
+Ashridge Park, 1&frac34; mile W. from the church, was erected to his memory in
+1832.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gaddesden Green</i> is practically one with the above, the marble cross
+and fountain to the memory of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888) being between
+the village and the Green. Gaddesden Hoe is 2 miles E. from the S. end
+of the Green.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gaddesden Row</i> (3 miles N. from Hemel Hempstead Station, M.R.) is a
+straggling hamlet equidistant (about 2 miles) from Flamstead and Great
+Gaddesden.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Gade" id="Gade"></a><span class="smcap">Gade</span>, river. (See <a href="#Rivers">Introduction</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Gallows Hill</i> (&frac12; mile S. from King&rsquo;s Langley Station, L.&amp;N.W.R.) is a
+hamlet. The Booksellers&rsquo; Provident Retreat is here. It is also the name
+of a hill between Hertford and Ware, on which stands the Joint Isolation
+Hospital for the two towns.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gannock Green</i> is 2&frac12; miles S. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R. The nearest
+church is at Sandon. Gannock Farm is &frac12; mile E.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gardener&rsquo;s End</i> (3&frac12; miles W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet in the
+parish of Ardeley.</p>
+
+<p><i>Garston</i> is 1&frac14; mile S.W. from Bricket Wood Station, L.&amp;N.W.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gibraltar</i>, on the road from Harpenden to Luton, is on the Bedfordshire
+border, close to Luton Hoo Park and Station, G.N.R.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a>[Pg&nbsp;100]</span><a name="Gilston" id="Gilston"></a><span class="smcap">Gilston</span> (2 miles N. from Burnt Hill Station (Essex) and about
+2 miles S.E. from Widford village) is a scattered parish. Chauncy says
+it was probably waste ground at the time of the Conquest, as there is no
+mention of it in <i>Domesday Book</i>. The church was very probably erected
+by Geoffrey de Magnaville, who was Earl of Essex and Lord of the Manor
+of Sabriesword (Sawbridgeworth) during the reign of Stephen. It is E.E.
+and stands on the hill about &frac14; mile N. from the Park. There is a fine
+double piscina in the chancel, and some heraldic glass in the windows,
+showing the coats of Astley, Bassett, Eastfield and Engayne. The
+monuments to the Gore family are numerous; amongst those buried in the
+church are (1) Sir John Gore, Kt. (d. 1659); he was twice sheriff of the
+county, and a member of Cromwell&rsquo;s second Protectorate Parliament; (2)
+Dame Dorothy Gore (Kempe), second wife to the foregoing (d. 1645); (3)
+Dame Persis, wife to Sir Humphrey Gore, Kt. (d. 1665); (4) in
+churchyard, John, eldest son of the said Sir Humphrey (d. 1691). The
+Feathers, a fine old inn (<i>circa</i> 1680), still stands in this village;
+an excellent photograph of it was reproduced in the <i>Home Counties
+Magazine</i> (Oct. 1901). <i>Gilston Park</i>, beautiful but not very extensive,
+should be visited; for the mansion (A. S. Bowlby, Esq., M.A., J.P.,
+etc.) stands near the site of <i>New Place</i>, successively the home of the
+Chauncys, Gores and Plumers. The house was enlarged and beautified by
+Sir Humphrey Gore, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a>[Pg&nbsp;101]</span>who was knighted at Whitehall in 1660. In 1701 it
+passed into the hands of Col. John Plumer, whose family is so well known
+to readers of the <i>Essays of Elia</i>. It was his grandson William (d.
+1822) whom Lamb calls &ldquo;a fine old Whig&rdquo;. This William left no family, so
+the house at Gilston Park and his other house, the famous &ldquo;Blakesmoor in
+H&mdash;&mdash;shire&rdquo; of Lamb&rsquo;s essay, passed to his widow (and cousin) Jane
+Hamilton, a daughter of Hon. George Hamilton, Canon of Windsor.</p>
+
+<p><a name="GoffsOak" id="GoffsOak"></a><i>Goff&rsquo;s Oak</i> (2&frac12; miles W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet
+which owes its name to the fine oak, a part of which still stands near
+the Goff&rsquo;s Oak Inn at the S. extremity of Cheshunt Common.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Gorhambury.</span> (See <a href="#StAlbans">St. Albans</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Gosmore</i> (2 miles S.W. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.) is a small
+village. The nearest church is at Ippollitts (<i><a href="#Ippollitts">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><i>Gossoms End</i> is on the road from Berkhampstead to Tring, &frac14; mile S.E.
+from Northchurch.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Graveley" id="Graveley"></a><span class="smcap">Graveley</span> (1&frac12; mile N.E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a
+village off the Great North Road. By walking from Stevenage towards
+Little <a name="cm9" id="cm9"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr9"
+title="Original reads 'Wymondly'">Wymondley</a> a pretty view over Graveley may be obtained from a
+gateway near some cottages on the right. The ancient church of brick and
+flint is late Norman with embattled tower; it was restored in 1886-7.
+The carved oak chancel-screen is ancient; there are windows of stained
+glass to the memory of local rectors. The present N. aisle was added
+during restoration. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102"></a>[Pg&nbsp;102]</span>The manor of Graveley is of great antiquity; it was
+given by William I. to William, Earl of Ewe. Graveley is perhaps Saxon
+for &ldquo;the Reeve&rsquo;s land,&rdquo; and Norden thinks the place took its name from a
+Reeve of the county in pre-Norman times. Near the village a beacon was
+employed &ldquo;once upon a time&rdquo; to give warning of the approach of enemies.
+One mile N. from the church is Jack&rsquo;s Hill, once the haunt of a robber,
+&ldquo;Jack o&rsquo; legs,&rdquo; the hero of many a legend known in the district. His
+grave is shown in Weston churchyard, 2 miles E. from Jack&rsquo;s Hill.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gravesend</i> (3&frac12; miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet
+on the road from Little Hadham to Furneaux Pelham. Albury church is 1
+mile S.</p>
+
+<p><i>Green End</i> is the name of three hamlets, (1) in the parish of Little
+Munden, about 4 miles W. from Standon Station; (2) in the parish of
+Sandon, about 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station (both stations
+G.E.R.); (3) &frac12; mile N. from Boxmoor Station, L.&amp;N.W.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Green Street.</i>&mdash;There are two hamlets of this name in Herts, (1) 2&frac12;
+miles N.W. from Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford; (2) 1&frac12; mile N.E. from Boreham Wood
+Station (M.R.).</p>
+
+<p><i>Green Tye</i> is 1&frac12; mile N.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Grub&rsquo;s Barn</i> (2 miles S.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) consists of a
+farmhouse and several cottages on open breezy ground between Hatfield
+and Tewin.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a>[Pg&nbsp;103]</span><i>Grub&rsquo;s Lane</i> is near the outskirts of Hatfield Park, 3 miles S.E. from
+the town.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gubblecot</i> (3 miles N.W. from Tring) is near the Aylesbury Canal. The
+Tring reservoirs, famous for the rare waterfowl shot on those waters on
+many occasions, are a little to the S.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gustard Wood</i> (1 mile N. from Wheathampstead Station G.N.R.) may be
+visited for its golf links, of which there are few in the county.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Hadham" id="Hadham"></a><span class="smcap">Hadham</span> (<span class="smcap">Great</span> or <span class="smcap">Much</span>) is an ancient village
+and parish near the river Ash. The station, G.E.R., is 1&frac14; mile S.W. We
+read that the Manor was given by King Edgar to the Bishops of London,
+several of whom have resided at the old manor house. Katherine, mother
+of Henry VI. and wife of Owen Tudor, gave birth to a son here, known as
+Edmund of Hadham. The church of St. Andrew, near the river, is E.E.,
+dating from about 1300. It has been much altered and restored. The very
+fine S. porch is thought to be the work of Bishop Kemp (1459-89); the
+massive, embattled W. tower is probably by Bishop Braybroke (<i>circa</i>
+1400). Note (1) floriated cross and inscription to Simon Flambard,
+Rector of Hadham Magna in 1331, and chaplain to Edward III.; (2) brass
+to one Alban, also rector here (d. 1372); (3) monument in chancel to
+Judith Aylmer, widow of John Aylmer, Bishop of London (d. 1618); (4)
+fourteenth-century glass in E. window, a memorial to Thomas Randolph, a
+recent rector; (5) <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a>[Pg&nbsp;104]</span>three brasses in nave to members of the Newce family
+(1579-1610); (6) fine oak chancel screen; (7) two piscin&aelig; in chancel.
+The old House, or Palace, dated from about 1400. Close to the village
+(S.W.) lies <i>Moor Park</i>, which readers or tourists must not confound
+with Moor Park, Rickmansworth (<i><a href="#MoorParkRick">q.v.</a></i>). The present mansion dates from
+about 1780; its predecessor was an Elizabethan structure, once the
+property of Sir John Gore, Kt. (see <a href="#Gilston">Gilston</a>), and previously of Sir
+Garratt Harvey, in whose day Archbishop Usher was a guest at &ldquo;Moore
+Place&rdquo;. At <i>Perry Green</i>, 1 mile E. from Hadham Station, is a
+chapel-of-ease, in E.E. style, erected in 1853. <i>Hadham Cross</i> is
+beautifully situated in the valley, S. from the village and partly
+hidden among trees.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hadham Ford</i> (3 miles E. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) is on the river
+Ash, 1 mile S.W. from</p>
+
+<p><a name="LittleHadham" id="LittleHadham"></a><span class="smcap">Hadham (Little)</span> formerly Hadham Parva. The parish enjoys
+considerable historic importance through its connection with the Capel
+family, Earls of Essex. The present earl owns large properties in the
+neighbourhood, and has the title of Baron of Hadham. The church stands
+between the village and the river, and is widely known for its fine S.
+porch of timber, which it possibly owes to the proximity of Essex, in
+which county such porches are comparatively common. The building is
+mostly E.E., probably late twelfth century, but the tower, embattled and
+pinnacled, is Perp. (<i>circa</i> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a>[Pg&nbsp;105]</span>1380). Note (1) brass to Rd. Waren, a
+rector of Great Hadham (<i>circa</i> 1470); (2) brass to a knight, his wife
+and daughters (<i>circa</i> 1485); (3) Perp. chancel screen of oak; (4) on S.
+side of chancel, memorial stone to &ldquo;Arthur Lord Capel, Baron of Hadham,
+who was murder&rsquo;d for his loyalty to King Charles the First, March the
+9th, 1648&rdquo;. This was the Lord Capel whose heart was preserved in a
+silver box and given to Charles II. at the Restoration, the earl having
+wished his heart to be &ldquo;buried with his master&rdquo;. The chancel was
+restored by Sir A. W. Blomfield in 1885. <i>Hadham Hall</i> (&frac12; mile E. from
+the church) is late Elizabethan, and has a magnificent corridor
+extending the entire length of the house (135 feet) with finely
+mullioned windows. <i>Little Hadham Place</i> (&frac12; mile W. from the church) is
+prettily situated. The manor of Hadham Parva formed part of the revenue
+of Saxon Kings until King Edgar gave it to the monks of Ely.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Haileybury College</span> (2 miles S.E. from Hertford) was founded at
+Hertford in 1805 as the training college of the East India Company. It
+is now one of our most famous public schools. The house, conspicuous
+from the S.E., stands on high ground, and commands beautiful views over
+the valley of the Lea, and, looking S.E., the neighbourhood of Epping
+Forest. Note (1) the noble chestnut avenue towards the W. entrance; (2)
+the great size of the quadrangle; (3) the beautifully decorated chapel
+(by A. W. Blomfield), surmounted by a lofty dome; (4) <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>[Pg&nbsp;106]</span>the library,
+containing some good portraits of former masters, one of which, Canon
+Bradby, was painted by Herkomer.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hall&rsquo;s Green</i> (4 miles N.E. from Stevenage) is on the hillside, 1 mile
+S.E. from Weston church. A little farther S. note the fine view over
+Cromer and Cottered, with windmill to the left.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hammond Street</i> is between Cheshunt Common and Flamstead End. The
+nearest Station is Cheshunt, G.E.R., 2&frac12; miles S.E.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hammond&rsquo;s End</i>, on the outskirts of Rothamstead Park, is in the centre
+of the pleasant varied scenery between the M.R. and the St.
+Albans-Dunstable road. The nearest station is Redbourn, 1&frac14; mile S.W.</p>
+
+<p><i>Handside (Upper and Lower)</i> is the name of two hamlets in Lemsford
+parish, both near Brocket Hall Park. Hatfield (about 3 miles S.) is the
+nearest station, G.N.R.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Hare Street.</span>&mdash;There are two places in the county bearing this
+name: (1) a small hamlet partly in Ardeley and partly in Cottered
+parish; (2) a large village on the Cambridge Road, 2 miles E. from
+Buntingford. The village has several quaint old cottages, and is by no
+means unpicturesque; but it contains little of historic importance. It
+affords, however, a good centre from which to visit several old and
+interesting churches (described elsewhere in these pages); Layston,
+Wyddial, Anstey, and Great and Little Hormead being all within a short
+walk.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>[Pg&nbsp;107]</span><i>Harmer Green</i> (&frac12; mile N.E. from Welwyn Station) is a small hamlet N.
+from the Maran Valley.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Harpenden" id="Harpenden"></a><span class="smcap">Harpenden</span> is well worth a visit and may be easily reached from
+St. Pancras (24 miles), or from King&rsquo;s Cross by changing at Hatfield.
+Visitors wishing to inspect the church, or to ramble through the large
+village, beautifully situated at the N. end of Harpenden Common, should
+be careful not to choose the day of the annual races, the Friday before
+Epsom week. The church was rebuilt (except the tower) in 1862, in E.
+Dec. style; prior to 1859 the old structure had been a chapel-of-ease to
+Wheathampstead (3 miles E.). It probably dated from say 1140 (<i>temp.</i>
+Stephen) and was originally cruciform and late Norman. The first tower
+is believed to have been destroyed by fire about 1470, after which the
+present W. tower was built. Many alterations were made during the
+seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; the original Norman clerestory, in
+particular, being superseded by one of Low Perp. Note (1) Norman font;
+(2) brass to William Cressye Esq. (d. 1558) and Grace (Johnson) his wife
+(d. 1571); (3) brass to William Annabull (d. 1456), and Isabella his
+wife. Chauncy quotes an inscription to one William Seabrooke (d. 1462)
+and Joanna his wife, which is of some interest from the fact that the
+name of Seabrooke is common to-day in this part of Herts; (4) E. window
+of stained Munich glass; (5) window in N. transept to the family of the
+late Sir J. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a>[Pg&nbsp;108]</span>B. Lawes of Rothamstead. <i>Rothamstead</i> (1 mile S.W.),
+formerly the seat of the above, is in a finely wooded park. Erected
+about 1470, it has been almost rebuilt at different times. From the
+grand entrance, under the clock tower, there is a fine view looking S.
+There is an annual Flower Show in the park. Harpenden Bury is 1 mile
+N.W. from Rothamstead, on the river Ver.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hatching Green</i> is a hamlet on Harpenden Common, 1 mile S.W. from the
+station, M.R.</p>
+
+<p>HATFIELD may be visited by fast train from King&rsquo;s Cross, G.N.R. (17
+miles), the station being opposite the W. gates of the park. The older
+parts of the town lie on the western slope of a hill close to the
+railway; at the top stand the church and portions of the old palace,
+beyond which, in the park, stands the fine mansion of the Cecils. The
+town is of great antiquity; the Saxon Kings, who called it Heathfield
+(the <i>Hetfelle</i> of <i>Domesday Book</i>), owned the manor until it was given
+by Edgar to the monks of Ely. After Ely had been converted into a
+bishopric by Henry I., the bishops made Hatfield one of their several
+residences, which gave rise to its former name of Bishop&rsquo;s Hatfield.
+Their palace became a royal home during the reign of Henry VIII., and
+was at one time occupied by his children Edward, Mary and Elizabeth. It
+was to this old palace that Elizabeth was brought from the Tower soon
+after her removal from Ashridge; whilst here she was in the custody of
+Sir <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a>[Pg&nbsp;109]</span>Thomas Pope, who treated her with kindness not always shown even
+to royal prisoners. The story of her reception of the news that she was
+Queen, of her first Council, held here in the palace, and of her
+subsequent journey to London, has been too often narrated to need
+repetition. Immediately after her death James I. paid a visit to
+Theobalds Park, and had an interview with Sir Robert Cecil, a younger
+son of Lord Burleigh, whom he presently created first Earl of Salisbury.
+The exchange by the King of his manor of Hatfield for that of Theobalds
+has been mentioned in the Introduction (<a href="#IntroX" >Section X</a>). The King promised to
+build for Sir Robert a new house at Hatfield; the work was carried out
+on a magnificent scale, and was completed sometime in 1611. The new
+house stood a little E. from the old palace. To this house James paid an
+early visit; one of its most stately apartments is called &ldquo;King James&rsquo;s
+Room&rdquo;.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo012" name="illo012"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo012.png"
+      alt="HATFIELD HOUSE"
+      title="HATFIELD HOUSE"
+      height="345" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">HATFIELD HOUSE</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Hatfield House</i> is still a fine example of early Jacobean architecture.
+To be appreciated it must certainly be seen: any adequate account of its
+architecture, its history and its treasures would fill such a volume as
+this. In shape it is a parallelogram, about 280 feet long by 70 feet
+wide, with two wings on the S. front. The centre between the two wings
+is Italian Renaissance in style; the central tower, pierced by the great
+gate, being of rich Elizabethan design. On the face of the third storey
+of the tower are the armorial bearings of the Earl of Salisbury. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a>[Pg&nbsp;110]</span>This
+S. front and the two wings enclose on three sides a quadrangle about 130
+feet wide by 100 feet deep, beautifully laid out with flower beds and
+lawns. The extremities of each wing take the shape of square, three
+storeyed towers, surmounted by cupolas 20 feet high. Between the wings
+runs a basement arcade, of eight arches on Doric pilasters, four on each
+side of the gateway below the armorial bearings. The entire floor above
+the arcade is occupied by the long gallery, 160 feet by 20 feet, and 16
+feet high. At the W. end of this gallery is the library, at the E. end
+is King James&rsquo;s Room. The aspect of the house from the N. is not so
+imposing; but there is a noble view over the grounds from the N.
+terrace, and the central clock tower is a conspicuous object from the
+most distant spots in the park. The library, graced by Zucchero&rsquo;s
+portrait of Robert, Earl of Salisbury, contains one of the most valuable
+collections of MSS. in the country, but the State Papers have recently
+been lodged in a room of greater security. A few of the treasures of
+these two rooms may be mentioned: (1) more than 12,000 autograph letters
+of the early Cecils; (2) the Diary of the &ldquo;great Lord Burleigh&rdquo;; (3) the
+forty-two articles of Edward VI. with his autograph attached; (4) a
+vellum MS. with miniature of Henry VII.; (5) the Norfolk correspondence;
+(6) the Council Book of Mary Tudor; (7) early MS. of the Chronicle of
+William of Malmesbury; (8) autograph MS. by Ascham.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo013" name="illo013"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo013.png"
+      alt="KING JAMES'S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE"
+      title="KING JAMES'S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE"
+      height="600" width="339"/>
+   <p class="caption">KING JAMES&rsquo;S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111"></a>[Pg&nbsp;111]</span><i>King James&rsquo;s Room</i> has three fine oriel windows and is profusely
+decorated. The great chimney-piece of marble mosaic, 12 feet wide, is
+supported on black Doric columns, and surmounted by a statue in bronze
+of James. Note the costly candelabra and gilt-framed furniture.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Grand Staircase</i> is hung with portraits of many Cecils, by Lely,
+Vandyck, Kneller, Reynolds and other masters. Note the huge dimensions
+of the carved balustrade; the strange rustic figures portrayed thereon;
+and the lions grasping shields bearing heraldic devices. There are five
+landings.</p>
+
+<p>Among other apartments the following should be visited: (1) <i>The
+Chapel</i>, with its fine Flemish windows representing scriptural stories,
+marble altar-piece, and open stalls; (2) the <i>Winter Dining Room</i>,
+looking out upon the N. terrace, about 30 feet square; this room
+contains many valuable pictures, including Wilkie&rsquo;s Duke of Wellington,
+Van Somer&rsquo;s James I. and Charles I., and Kneller&rsquo;s Peter the Great; (3)
+<i>Great Banqueting Hall</i>; (4) <i>Summer Dining Room</i>, near the foot of the
+great staircase; the bust of Burleigh, in white marble, is above the
+door; (5) the <i>Armoury</i>, full of treasures &ldquo;rich and rare,&rdquo; suits of
+armour, relics of the Spanish Armada, various arms, etc. Other pictures
+in various parts of the house include (1) William III., and Lady
+Ranelagh, by Kneller; (2) half-length of Elizabeth with jewelled
+head-dress and grotesquely embroidered gown; Mildred Coke, mother of the
+first earl; Thomas Cecil, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112"></a>[Pg&nbsp;112]</span>Earl of Exeter: all by Zucchero; (3) fine
+whole-length of Mary, first Marchioness of Salisbury, by Reynolds.</p>
+
+<p>The Park is the largest in the county, being about 9 miles in
+circumference; it is undulating and beautifully wooded. There are some
+superb avenues. Of Queen Elizabeth&rsquo;s oak, N.E. from the N. terrace,
+little is left saving a portion of trunk, railed round; but the Lion
+Oak, between the house and the great W. gates, still puts forth leaves
+in its season. The maze close to the house is only less famous than that
+at Hampton Court.</p>
+
+<p>The Church of St. Ethelreda is cruciform, largely Dec. and one of the
+largest in the county. A Norman arch in the S. transept is thought to be
+a portion of the original structure. It was completely restored, indeed
+almost rebuilt, in 1872. The nave is 102 feet by 20 feet; the chancel
+about 40 feet by 20 feet. There are N. and S. porches; the former looks
+almost directly upon the great gate-house of the old palace. The most
+important among many features of interest is the&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><i>Salisbury Chapel</i>, N. side of chancel, from which it is divided by an
+arcade of three arches on Ionic granite columns. The whole is enclosed
+by beautifully designed iron gates, the work, probably, of an unknown
+Italian. Note the marble wainscotting, and the finely conceived and
+executed allegorical paintings and mosaics on walls and roof. At the E.
+side, on a slab of black marble supported by four kneeling <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113"></a>[Pg&nbsp;113]</span>figures in
+white marble (representing the cardinal virtues) lies the recumbent
+effigy of Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, Lord High Treasurer
+of England (d. 1612). The effigy is in robes, with official staff in
+hand. Beneath the slab is a skeleton in white marble. Note also in this
+chapel mezzo-relievo effigy to William Curll, Esq. (d. 1617), with
+inscription, almost illegible, to the effect that he was a most
+Christian knight who died in hope of a joyful resurrection.</p>
+
+<p>On the opposite (S.) side of the chancel is the <i>Brockett Chapel</i>,
+containing monuments to the Reades and Brocketts of Brocket Hall (see
+below). Among them note (1) two recumbent female figures, above them the
+arms of the Brockett family and beneath an inscription to Dame Elizabeth
+Brockett (d. 1612) and an epitaph to Dame Agnes Saunders (d. 1588); (2)
+medallion of a female by Rysbrack (1760); (3) bust of Sir James Reade,
+Bart. (d. 1701), and of Sir John Reade, Bart. (d. 1711); (4) helmet of
+Sir John Brockett on wall. There are piscin&aelig; in the chancel and N.
+transept, both discovered during restoration. The reredos, alabaster and
+mosaic, has a fine crucifixion group, with SS. Alban and Etheldreda on
+either side, carved by Earp, who also carved the pulpit of Caen stone.
+Note the beautiful clustered shafts of marble on the font of Tisbury
+stone, the gift of the late Marchioness of Salisbury.</p>
+
+<p>Three miles N.N.W. is <i>Brocket Hall</i>. The Great North Road skirts the
+park on the E. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114"></a>[Pg&nbsp;114]</span>and the river Lea flows past the house from N.W. to S.E.
+The present edifice was designed by Paine for Sir Matthew Lamb, Bart.,
+whose son, Sir Peniston Lamb, Bart., became Viscount Melbourne in 1780.
+By this nobleman the Prince Regent was sometimes entertained here, and
+here, as stated in the Introduction, Lord Palmerston died in 1865. The
+drawing-room and grand staircase have always been admired, but, as a
+whole, the house is large and stately rather than beautiful. Elizabeth
+is said to have visited here before she became Queen, and in the park,
+as at Hatfield, an oak is shown as the one under which she loved to sit.
+From the Hall the most charming walks may be taken in any direction;
+<i>e.g.</i>, through the park S.E. to Lemsford Mill, or S.W. to Cromer Hyde,
+N.W. to Water End, or N.E. to Ayot Green. More charming still is the
+ramble&mdash;permission should be requested&mdash;beside the winding Lea towards
+Old Marford and Wheathampstead.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hatfield Hyde</i> (1&frac34; mile N.E. from Hatfield) is a hamlet in a pretty
+district, with the river Lea and Hatfield Park a little S.</p>
+
+<p><i>Haultwick</i> lies 3 miles W. from the Old North Road; it is a hamlet 1
+mile N. from Little Munden. The nearest station is Braughing, G.E.R.
+(about 3&frac12; miles E.), passing the S. side of Hamel&rsquo;s Park.</p>
+
+<p><i>Heavensgate</i> (2 miles W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) consists of a few
+cottages in the centre of a district of small hamlets. The walk <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115"></a>[Pg&nbsp;115]</span>(2
+miles N.) to Flamstead through Trowley Bottom is pleasant.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo014" name="illo014"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo014.png"
+      alt="HEMEL HEMPSTEAD"
+      title="HEMEL HEMPSTEAD"
+      height="600" width="347"/>
+   <p class="caption">HEMEL HEMPSTEAD</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="HemelHempstead" id="HemelHempstead"></a>HEMEL HEMPSTEAD.&mdash;Visitors from London should book to Boxmoor
+(L.&amp;N.W.R.) and walk N.E. over the little common or take the motor-bus
+through Marlowes to the town (1&frac12; mile). From St. Albans it is a pleasant
+walk by way of Gorhambury and the village of Leverstock Green; from
+Redbourn it is but a few minutes&rsquo; journey (M.R.). The town, until
+recently an old &ldquo;Bailiwick,&rdquo; is on a hill, with central market place,
+town hall and corn exchange. The church is very ancient; it is
+cruciform, of flint and clunch stone. The oldest portions can hardly be
+less than 750 years old; the nave, arcade and W. doorway are fine
+examples of the period. Note (1) groined roof and Dec. windows S. side
+of chancel; (2) transept roof, fourteenth century, restored in 1880; (3)
+nave roof, fifteenth century, restored 1885; (4) great height of
+octagonal, leaded spire, conspicuous for miles round (see illustration).
+Among monuments note (1) figured brass, representing an armed man, to
+Robert Albyn and Margaret his wife (1480); the inscription I transcribe
+from Chauncy:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;Robert Albyn gist icy<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et Margareta sa femme oubike luy<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Dieu de lez almes eyt mercy&rdquo;;<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>(2) monument to Sir Astley Paston Cooper (d. 1841).</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116"></a>[Pg&nbsp;116]</span>Hemel Hempstead, according to Norden, owed its name (Heanhamsted) to
+the high hemp-land on the E. side of the town. Offa, King of the
+Mercians, gave six houses at <i>Hemelhamstede</i> to the Abbey of St. Albans;
+but the remainder of the <i>vill</i> remained in the hands of Saxon Kings
+until it was given to Earl Moreton by William I. The entry in <i>Domesday
+Book</i> is in this case unusually interesting; the property held by Earl
+Moreton is thus described: &ldquo;Earl Moreton held Hamelhamstede in Treung
+hundred, it was rated for 10 hides ... there are two Frenchmen born,
+with thirteen Bordars, ... there are eight Servants, and four Mills of
+seven and thirty Shillings and four Pence Rent by the Year, and three
+hundred Eels wanting five and twenty, Meadow four Carucates, Common of
+Pasture for the Cattle, and two Shillings Rent by the Year, Wood to feed
+one thousand and two hundred Hogs; in the whole value it is worth two
+and twenty Pounds, when he received it five and twenty Pounds, and Rent
+in the time of King Edward (the Confessor). Two were Brethren, Men of
+Earl Lewin, they held this mannor.&rdquo; From Priory Hill, W. from the
+church, a fine view may be obtained of the town below and the cornfields
+beyond. <i>Bury Mill</i> is on the river Gade, at the foot of the hill.
+<i>Gadesbridge Park</i> is on the left as you pass from High Street to
+Piccott&rsquo;s End; the House is on a beautifully wooded slope, W. from the
+Gade; it is the residence of Sir Astley Paston Paston Cooper, Bart.,
+J.P., <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117"></a>[Pg&nbsp;117]</span>etc. A good deal of straw plait is still made by the women of
+this neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><i>Heronsgate</i> (3 miles W. from Rickmansworth) is a hamlet on the Bucks
+border, with a small chapel-of-ease to St. Peter&rsquo;s, Mill End, 1&frac14; mile E.
+The building is modern, with one window of stained glass.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo015" name="illo015"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo015.png"
+      alt="HERTFORD"
+      title="HERTFORD"
+      height="600" width="348"/>
+   <p class="caption">HERTFORD</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="Hertford" id="Hertford"></a>HERTFORD, the county town, is of immemorial antiquity. The origin of the
+name has elicited much learned conjecture, and Hertford is one of
+several places held to be the <i>Durocobrivis</i> mentioned by Antonine. It
+is the <i>Herudsford</i> (<i>i.e.</i> red ford) of the Venerable Bede. That it was
+a town of some importance on the river Lea even in the days of the
+Trinobantes seems indisputable. Norden conjectured that the true name of
+the town was Hartford, so called because in Saxon times, when the
+surrounding country was densely wooded, the harts crossed the river by a
+natural ford at this spot. However this may be, the old borough seal,
+three or four centuries ago, bore as a device a hart in shallow water.
+The rivers Rib, Beane, and Maran all unite with the Lea in the immediate
+neighbourhood. Some reference may be here made to the doings of Alfred
+the Great in this neighbourhood. By putting together what is recorded by
+William of Malmesbury, Henry of Huntingdon, Asser and others we learn
+that in the twenty-third year of Alfred&rsquo;s reign the Danes infested the
+Thames with their ships, sailed up the Lea in the lighter of their
+crafts, and built a fort about 20 miles from London, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a>[Pg&nbsp;118]</span>at or near what is
+now the town of Ware. Presently, in the course of their many foraging
+excursions, they sailed farther up the river towards Hertford, stripped
+the people in the town and burnt down many houses. They afterwards
+established a garrison near the town. Alfred brought his army down to
+the river side the following year and made a careful survey of the
+Danish fort and of the character and position of their ships. He is said
+to have passed from place to place in a boat, drawn by a horse, and to
+have carefully ascertained the depth of the water at different points.
+The precise nature of his subsequent operations is not well known, but
+he is said to have diverted the course of the river, to have erected a
+dam (Shass) at Blackwall, and by these means to have grounded the Danish
+fleet. The Danes held a treaty, and eventually withdrew into
+Cambridgeshire and Gloucestershire; the Londoners came down to the scene
+of Alfred&rsquo;s ingenuity and destroyed or appropriated the Danish ships.</p>
+
+<p>Of the castle, built by Edward the Elder in 905, there still remain
+several large fragments of an embattled wall, partly Norman, and a
+postern gate. Of its history only a few leading facts can be mentioned
+here. William I. entrusted it to the keeping of Peter de Valoignes; it
+was besieged by Louis the Dauphin, and capitulated on the Feast of St.
+Nicholas in 1216; it was granted, together with the town, to John of
+Gaunt, Earl of Richmond, in whose <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a>[Pg&nbsp;119]</span>time Kings John of France and David
+of Scotland were prisoners within its walls, and after the Earl had been
+created Duke of Lancaster he held a court in the castle for three weeks.
+It was the last prison house of Isabella, widow of Edward II. Henry IV.
+gave the castle to his wife Joan; Henry V. to his wife Katherine of
+France; and Henry VI. to his wife Margaret of Anjou. Elizabeth and James
+I. are both said to have visited this castle. Charles I., on 3rd May, in
+the sixth year of his reign, transferred it to William Earl of
+Salisbury. It was seized by the Parliament during the Great Rebellion.</p>
+
+<p>The Roman Catholic Church in St. John Street stands on or near the site
+of the old Priory, founded during the reign of William I. by Ralph
+Limesy and by him conveyed to the Abbot of St. Albans, who placed here
+six Benedictine monks under Ralph, who became their first prior. The
+Priory was dissolved in the twenty-sixth year of Henry VIII.; but the
+church was rebuilt by Thomas Willis in 1629. It was &ldquo;demolisht by order
+of the Bishop of Lincoln&rdquo; towards the end of the seventeenth century.
+The church of All Saints, on high ground E. from the town, was destroyed
+by fire in 1891, when almost everything perished. It was immediately
+rebuilt as a Perp. structure of Runcorn stone, and consecrated in 1895.
+In the main, the plan of the old church has been followed, but the
+aisles are longer than formerly; note the fine clerestoried nave of five
+bays, and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a>[Pg&nbsp;120]</span>hexagonal N. porch. The old building contained monuments to
+Sir John Harrison, Kt., Farmer of Customs to Charles I. (d. 1669);<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnnum">[4]</a> to
+Isabel Newmarch, maid of honour to Isabella, daughter of Charles VI. of
+France and second wife to Richard II.; and to Johannes Prest, &ldquo;porter&rdquo;
+(janitor) to Katherine, wife of Henry V. The two latter monuments were
+removed more than 200 years ago. Note the beautiful chestnut trees in
+the avenue near the church, and the many quaint epitaphs on the
+tombstones in the extensive graveyard. The Church of St. Andrew is
+modern; it occupies the site of an older Perp. edifice, originally
+founded before the Conquest. Close by in the market place is the Shire
+Hall, a large brick building of &ldquo;questionable shape&rdquo; erected towards the
+close of the eighteenth century. Malting, brewing and general trade in
+corn and its products form the larger part of the industries of
+Hertford. Between this town and Ware is the spot where Cromwell put a
+summary period to the insurrection of the &ldquo;Levellers&rdquo; by shooting a
+ringleader named Arnald.</p>
+
+
+<p><i>Hertford Heath.</i> (See <a href="#LittleAmwell">Amwell, Little</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><a name="Hertingfordbury" id="Hertingfordbury"></a><span class="smcap">Hertingfordbury</span> may be visited from Hertford, the station
+(G.N.R.) being 1&frac12; mile S.W. The village is pleasantly situated on the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a>[Pg&nbsp;121]</span>river Maran, on the S. confines of Panshanger Park. The church, partly
+rebuilt by Earl Cowper in 1890-3, was founded during the fifteenth
+century. It contains little of architectural interest, but the monuments
+are numerous: (1) marble mosaic altar tomb to Sir W. Harrington, with
+alabaster effigies of himself and wife and inscription in rhyme; (2)
+slab to Thomas Ellis (d. 1608) and Grace his wife (d. 1612); (3)
+recumbent effigy in marble to Lady Calvert, wife of Sir George Calvert,
+Kt., who died in 1622; (4) to Dr. Jonathan Browne, Dean of Hertford (d.
+1643); (5) very ancient brass inscription beneath chancel arch to two
+daughters of Robert de Louthe, and one of similar age to Robert de
+Louthe and his wife. The Cowper Chapel, N. side of chancel, contains
+many monuments to that family, particularly a fine alto-relievo by
+Roubeliac to Spencer Cowper (d. 1727), chief Justice of Chester in 1717.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Hexton" id="Hexton"></a><span class="smcap">Hexton</span> (about 6 miles N.W. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.) lies
+on a tongue of the county surrounded W., N. and E. by Bedfordshire. The
+Church of St. Faith, W. from the village, was rebuilt, with the
+exception of the embattled tower, in 1824, as a Perp. edifice. The St.
+Nicholas Chapel, N. side of chancel, takes the place of the chapel
+bearing the same name in the former church. There is a memorial to Peter
+Taverner (d. 1601), who was, I suppose, father to that Francis Taverner,
+Esq., who compiled a record of the antiquities of Hexton and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122"></a>[Pg&nbsp;122]</span>set it in
+the chapel. Little space can be spared for excerpts in this volume, but
+the details which Taverner brought together are so interesting that I
+transcribe a part of them from a copy in my possession:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Near unto the Roman military Way called Icknild or Ikenild-Street,
+which passeth by this Parish upon a very high Hill is to be seen a
+warlike Fort of great Strength, and ancient Works, which seemeth to have
+been a Summer standing Camp of the Romans: And near it on the Top of
+another Hill called Wayting-Hill, a Hillock was raised up, such as the
+Romans were wont to rear for Souldiers slain, wherein many Bones have
+been found. The Saxons call&rsquo;d this Fort Ravensburgh, from a City in
+Germany, whereof the Duke of Saxony beareth the Title of Lord at this
+Day. And this Town, which the Britains perhaps call&rsquo;d Hesk of Reed,
+which doth abound much in this Place; the Sazons call&rsquo;d Heckstanes-Tune,
+that is the Town of Reed and Stones, if not rather Hockstanes-Tune, that
+is, the Town of Mire and Stones, for old Englishmen, call deep Mire,
+Hocks: Or may be from Grates set in Rivers or Waters before Floodgates,
+which are call&rsquo;d Hecks; neither is it unlikely but that the Danes made
+some Use of this Fort, for a Parcel of Ground near thereunto is called
+Dane-Furlong to this Day. Some of these Conjectures may be true, but
+this is certain, that Offa, a Saxon King, of the Mertians about 795,
+founded the Monastery of St. Albans, in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123"></a>[Pg&nbsp;123]</span>Memory of St. Alban, and that
+Sexi an honourable and devout Dane (as it is in the Chartulary of the
+Abby) about Anno Dom. 1030, gave to the said Monastery the Town of
+Heckstane-Tune and the Abbot of St. Albans held this Mannor in the time
+of King William the Conqueror.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;This Vill at that time did lie in the Half-hundred of Hiz, and from
+that time during the Space of 510 Years, the Abbots of St. Albans were
+Lords of the Mannors now call&rsquo;d Hexton. They were also Patrons of this
+Church (dedicated to St. Faith, which Saint had her Statue erected over
+a Fountain near this Church Yard, call&rsquo;d St. Faith&rsquo;s Well) for John de
+Hertford, the 23d Abbot, did appropriate this Church of Hexstoneston to
+the said Monastery. The Cellarers of which Monastery kept the Court Leet
+and the Court Baron, and received the Rents of the Demeasnes and
+Customary Tenants of this Mannor; and the Sacrists had the disposing of
+the Profits of the Rectory.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The said Fort, which the common People call Ravensborough Castle, is
+cast up in the Form of an Oval, and containeth sixteen Acres, one Rood,
+and fifteen Poles of Ground, and is naturally strengthened with mighty
+deep and very steep Combs, which the inhabitants call Lyn.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The Town of Hexton is seated at the Foot of the Mountains, whence issue
+many Springs of Water; the Mountains are a continued Rock of Stone.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124"></a>[Pg&nbsp;124]</span><a name="HighCross" id="HighCross"></a><span class="smcap">High Cross</span> (3 miles N. from Ware) is a village and parish on
+the Old North Road. It has a modern Dec. church of grey stone,
+containing several good stained-glass windows, but little of
+architectural interest. <i>Youngsbury</i>, a beautiful but small park, S.
+from the village, has a fine Georgian residence (C. B. Giles-Puller,
+Esq.). The little river Rib skirts the park on the S. side. There is a
+small hamlet of the same name 1&frac14; mile S.W. <a name="cm10" id="cm10"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr10"
+title="Original reads 'From'">from</a> Radlett Station
+(M.R.).</p>
+
+<p><i>High Street</i> is a small hamlet on the Cambridge Road, near the river
+Quin. Braughing Station (G.E.R.) is 1&frac14; mile S.</p>
+
+<p><i>High Wych</i> (2 miles N. from Harlow Station, Essex) has an E.E. church,
+built in 1861; the marble reredos, finely worked, was added in 1871. The
+trade in malt is large for so small a place.</p>
+
+<p><i>Highley Hill</i> (1 mile S.W. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) is on the
+Cambridgeshire border.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Hinxworth" id="Hinxworth"></a><span class="smcap">Hinxworth</span>, formerly Hamsteworde and Henxworth (4 miles N. from
+Baldock), is close to the Bedfordshire border. The parish is very
+ancient. The church of St. Nicholas was erected about 1400 on the site
+of an earlier structure. It is a mixture of several styles, partly
+restored in 1881. Note (1) two canopied Perp. niches in S.E. angle of
+nave, where was formerly the lady-chapel; (2) brass to John Lambard, a
+master of the Mercers&rsquo; Company (d. 1487), and Anne his wife; (3) oak
+roof in chancel, added <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125"></a>[Pg&nbsp;125]</span>in 1892; (4) rood-stairs. William I. divided
+the <i>vill</i> between three Normans, Peter de Valoignes, Hardwin de
+Scalers, and William Earl of Ewe, who owned much other property in
+Hertfordshire. The vill was subsequently divided into two manors, one of
+which belonged to William de Cantilupe, a Steward and Councillor to King
+John, and the other, during the reign of Henry VII., to John Lambard
+mentioned above. This manor was called Pulter; and the old house (now
+<i>Hinxworth Place</i>, &frac12; mile S. from the village) was once inhabited by
+some Cistercian monks of the Monastery of Pipewell (Northants). Note the
+clunch walls and mullioned windows, in one of which, designed in stained
+glass, are the armorial bearings of three former owners. Two hundred
+years ago the village consisted of thirty-five dwellings, three of which
+were almshouses.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo016" name="illo016"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo016.png"
+      alt="HITCHIN"
+      title="HITCHIN"
+      height="600" width="346"/>
+   <p class="caption">HITCHIN</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>HITCHIN is an ancient town, full of interest, 32 miles N. from King&rsquo;s
+Cross, G.N.R. It was formerly called Hitche, very probably from the
+little river Hiz, which rises at Well Head, about 1&frac12; mile S.W. from the
+centre of the town. Roman coins and pottery, and even prehistoric
+implements have been found in great quantities in the neighbourhood, and
+there are traces of a prehistoric lake bed, to the S.E. <i>The Priory</i>,
+immediately S. (R. H. J. Delm&eacute;-Radcliffe, Esq., J.P.), occupies the site
+of a Carmelite monastery and Conventual church founded in the reign of
+Edward II.; and the Biggin Almshouses, close to the church, still
+preserve some <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126"></a>[Pg&nbsp;126]</span>of the old fabric of the Gilbertine Nunnery, founded in
+the reign of Edward III. The Church of St. Mary (formerly St. Andrew),
+just off the N.E. corner of the market-place, is thought to be the
+largest parish church in the county, the other claimant for that honour
+being St. Peters, Great Berkhampstead. The whole structure is embattled.
+The square W. tower is of unusual size, but low in proportion. Entering
+by the fine old S. porch we notice the niches for statues, none of which
+remain, and the vaulted roof, badly battered and marred by&mdash;as is
+supposed&mdash;the zealous iconoclasts of Cromwell&rsquo;s army. Opposite, over the
+N. porch, hangs a painting of the Adoration of the Magi, believed to be
+by Rubens; it was formerly over the communion table. The church has been
+restored at intervals since 1858; but the fine Perp. aisle-roofs still
+remain. The font, of Ketton stone, is ancient, and formerly had statues
+of the twelve Apostles in niches; these, however, have been mutilated
+almost beyond recognition; the beautiful oak canopy is new. Note the
+effigy in stone lying in the recess of the first window of the N. aisle,
+believed to be that of Bernard de Baliol, founder of the Preceptory of
+Knights Templars at Temple Dinsley (3 miles S.), and the mosaics of the
+reredos, representing the Last Supper, Christ and the woman of Samaria,
+Moses striking the rock, and other subjects from Scripture. The screens
+of carved oak, between the aisles and chancel aisles, are among the
+finest in the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127"></a>[Pg&nbsp;127]</span>county. Memorials are numerous; some ancient brasses
+having been brought to light during restoration. Among the brasses are
+one (1) to John Beel, Margary his wife, and their eight children (1477);
+this is near the pulpit; (2) to James Hert, B.D. (d. 1498); (3) to John
+Pulter, a draper (d. 1421), and his wife Alice, the effigies almost
+obliterated; (4) to Nicholas Mattok, and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1485);
+this Nicholas was a fishmonger of London, and a merchant of the staple
+of Calais; (5) portion of a brass, near the chancel steps, to John
+Sperehawke, D.D., Canon of Wells (d. 1474).</p>
+
+<p>Adjoining the W. end of the churchyard is Golden Square, once the
+residence of Eugene Aram, from which we may pass into Bancroft, one of
+the widest thoroughfares in the county. Close by is Tilehouse Street;
+the Baptist Chapel, on the left, some way up the street, was restored in
+1894: it stands on the site of the building in which Bunyan preached; a
+chair which he gave is still shown in the vestry. It may here be
+mentioned that George Whitefield and George Fox are both known to have
+visited Hitchin during their missionary wanderings. A little farther W.
+is Mount Pleasant, thought to be the birthplace of George Chapman, the
+translator of Homer. That he finished his translation in this
+neighbourhood is matter of knowledge; but what is told of his family
+connections with Hitchin is little more than conjecture.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128"></a>[Pg&nbsp;128]</span>Between the town and the station, G.N.R., stands a modern church of red
+brick, dressed with Bath stone, E. Dec. in style. There are good oak
+stalls and a sedile in the chancel.</p>
+
+<p>Hitchin was noted during the sixteenth century for its trade in wood and
+malt. There were at one time tan-yards beside the Hiz, and the
+buckle-makers of Bucklersbury gave that street its name. The
+malting-yards occupied much of the ground on both sides of Bancroft. The
+making of lavender water in the town is referred to in the Introduction.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Hockeril" id="Hockeril"></a><span class="smcap">Hockeril</span> is now the E. suburb of Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford, the bridge
+over the Stort, near the Old Black Lion, connecting it with the town. It
+has a modern Gothic church. The E. extremity of Hockeril is almost on
+the border line between Hertfordshire and Essex.</p>
+
+<p>HODDESDON (1&frac12; mile N. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is an ancient
+market town, lying on high ground among beautifully diversified
+surroundings. It is known, at least by name, to all readers of <i>The
+Complete Angler</i>; but the old Thatched House, to which Izaak Walton
+often resorted, has long been a thing of the past. The Bull Inn still
+remains where it stood in the time of Prior, whose allusion to it in his
+<i>Down Hall</i> is invariably quoted in local handbooks:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;Into an old inn did this equipage roll,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">At a town they call Hod&rsquo;sdon, the sign of the Bull,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Near a nymph with an urn that divides the highway,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">And into a puddle throws mother of tea&rdquo;.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129"></a>[Pg&nbsp;129]</span>The stone figure to which Prior refers is no longer to be seen. At the
+S. end of the High Street, on the right when entering the town from
+Broxbourne, stands <i>Rawdon House</i>, an embattled Jacobean mansion of red
+brick, built by Sir Marmaduke Rawdon in 1622. It was restored in 1877,
+and the stucco with which it was formerly coated was removed. A tower,
+with cupola roof, is at the rear of the house, which is now a convent
+for Augustinian nuns.</p>
+
+<p>The Church of St. Catherine, close to the site of the old Thatched
+House, but W. from the opposite side of the High Street, dates from
+1732; the tower was added in 1888. It is a large building of red-brick,
+in mixed styles, with small windows of stained glass in the chancel. It
+is not interesting.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hollesmore End</i> (2 miles W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small
+hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Holwell" id="Holwell"></a><span class="smcap">Holwell</span> is a village and parish transferred from Bedfordshire
+to Hertfordshire in 1897. It is about 1&frac12; mile N.E. from Pirton (<i><a href="#Pirton">q.v.</a></i>);
+the nearest station is Henlow, M.R., 2 miles N. The Church of St. Peter,
+very much restored, was originally Perp. There is a xii century holy
+water basin, and a very curious old brass to Robert Wodehouse, a priest
+(1515), with figures of two <i>wodehowses</i> (wild forest men) and of a
+chalice and paten.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hook&rsquo;s Cross</i> (2 miles E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+on the main road from Hertford to Stevenage. <i>Frogmore Hall</i> stands in a
+small park &frac12; mile E.; it is a <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130"></a>[Pg&nbsp;130]</span>large modern mansion of red brick and
+stone facings. The grounds are very picturesque, and are divided by the
+river Beane.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Hormead, Great</span> (2&frac12; miles E. from Buntingford), has a restored
+fifteenth century church, perhaps 1400-20, containing a brass to a
+benefactor, one William Delawood (1694) and a mural monument to
+Lieut.-Col. Stables, killed at Waterloo. The village is close to the
+river Quin, which flows between the church and Hare Street on the
+Cambridge Road.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hormead, Little</i> (&frac12; mile S. from the above), has a quaint little Norman
+and E.E. church on the hill crest overlooking Hare Street. Leaving the
+Cambridge Road at the S. end of that village, and crossing the river
+Quin, the rounded arch of the Norman doorway on the N. side of the nave
+catches the eye as we approach the village. The door itself is partly of
+wrought iron work, seventeenth century; an engraving of it is in
+Cussans&rsquo; <i>History of Hertfordshire</i>. There is excellently preserved work
+in the Norman nave. It has been surmised that &ldquo;Hormede&rdquo; was formerly one
+<i>vill</i>, that it was divided soon after 1100, and the two churches built
+on the hill less than &frac12; mile apart. Ralph Baugiard and Eustace, Earl of
+Boulogne, together held the manor of &ldquo;Hormede&rdquo; at the time of the Great
+Survey, and the names Hormead Magna and Hormead Parva are of later
+origin.</p>
+
+<p><i>Horse Shoes</i> (&frac12; a mile N. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+in the parish of Colney Heath.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131"></a>[Pg&nbsp;131]</span><i>Howe Green</i>, a small hamlet, is 1&frac14; mile S. from Cole Green Station,
+G.N.R. Pretty walks may be taken S. to Bedwell Park, or N.W. to the mill
+on the Lea, Rye Croft, and Mill Green.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Hunsdon" id="Hunsdon"></a><span class="smcap">Hunsdon</span> (2 miles N.E. from Roydon Station, Essex) is a very
+ancient village. The E. Perp. church of flint is thought to date from
+1400, and the N. porch of oak is probably coeval with the main
+structure. Note the finely carved Jacobean screen which divides the Cary
+Chapel in the S. transept from the nave, and, in the chapel, the
+imposing monument and alabaster effigies to Sir John Cary (d. 1617) and
+his wife. The monument is built into the wall; behind it is a rather
+long, but historically important inscription:&mdash;&ldquo;Here resteth in Peace
+Sir John Cary, Knight, Baron of Hunsdon (being the fourth Son to the
+Right Honorable Henry Baron of Hunsdon) and the Lady Mary Hunsdon his
+Wife, Daughter to Leonard Hide of Throcking in the county of Hertford,
+Esq.; The Said Sir John Cary was sent to Barwick by the late Queen
+Elizabeth of Famous Memory, in the Year of our Lord, 1593, to be
+Marshall of the Town of Barwick, and Captain of Norham; afterwards he
+was made Governor of the said Town and Garrison of Barwick, and Lord
+Warden of the East Marches of England,... Scotland, and so he remained
+until he returned into England with the most famous King James, where he
+entered into the Possession of the Crown of England; and so <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132"></a>[Pg&nbsp;132]</span>having two
+Sons and two Daughters ended this transitory Life, in an assured Hope to
+rise again in Christ.&rdquo; In the chancel windows are some white roses, and
+a badge of the House of York; note also the canopies in these windows,
+and the figures of Apostles in the W. window. On the N. wall of nave is
+a fine brass to James Gray, showing a man shooting at deer with a
+crossbow; this Gray was gamekeeper for thirty-five years at <i>Hunsdon
+House</i>. Bishop Ridley preached from the pulpit on several occasions.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hunsdon House</i> stands between the church and Gilston Park. During the
+reign of Edward IV., Sir John Oldhall &ldquo;built here a fair House after the
+mode of a Castle ... which building, &rsquo;tis said, cost &pound;7,222&rdquo;. This would
+be an enormous sum of money in those days. The original structure had a
+high tower and large courtyard. Henry VIII. made the house a palace, and
+in so doing appears to have almost rebuilt it; it is known that his
+children were often here, as the King had a high opinion of
+Hertfordshire air. Queen Elizabeth gave the estate to Sir Henry Cary,
+Kt., her cousin, and created him Baron Hunsdon. The &ldquo;palace&rdquo; was
+surrounded by a moat, crossed by two bridges; the grand entrance and
+lofty clock tower, the outhouses and grounds are elaborately depicted in
+a print in Chauncy&rsquo;s <i>History</i>. The present house was erected at the
+beginning of this century, partly on a fresh site, but some portions of
+what was the W. extremity of the old palace are built into the E. wing.
+Two <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133"></a>[Pg&nbsp;133]</span>fine Jacobean chimney-pieces still remain; but little else is left
+of the old Tudor home, and the moat has been levelled. The present
+house, however, is an imposing, even noble structure of red brick, and
+its position, backed by the grand old elms in the park, is very
+picturesque. N.E. stood Hunsdon Lodge, the hunting lodge of Queen
+Elizabeth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Hunton Bridge</span> is a pleasant little village at the meeting of
+the roads from Watford, King&rsquo;s Langley, and St. Albans, on the Grand
+Junction Canal. The nearest station is King&rsquo;s Langley (L.&amp;N.W.R.), 1&frac14;
+mile N. There is a good modern inn and many pretty cottages, and folk in
+search of rest and quiet might journey farther and find less suitable
+retirement. The nearest church is at Langleybury (<i><a href="#Langleybury">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><a name="Ickleford" id="Ickleford"></a><span class="smcap">Ickleford</span>, formerly Ickleton, is a village on the Roman
+Icknield Way, which at this spot fords the little river Hiz; hence its
+name. It is 2 miles N. from Hitchin. The church was restored in 1860;
+but portions of the ancient fabric have been carefully retained, and a
+small chapel added to the chancel. The tower is Norman, as are also part
+of the nave arcade and the S. doorway. The chancel arch, pointed, is
+finely carved; the stairs to the rood-loft still remain; there is a
+piscina in the chancel. Note brass to Thomas Somer and his wife (<i>circa</i>
+1400). S. from the church is <i>Ickleford Manor</i>, in a small park, for
+some years the residence of Commander H. C. Dudley Ryder, R.N. It is not
+of historic interest.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134"></a>[Pg&nbsp;134]</span><a name="Ippollitts" id="Ippollitts"></a><span class="smcap">Ippollitts</span> or St. Ippolitts (2 miles S.E. from Hitchin) was
+formerly called Hippolits, Eppalets or Pallets, according to the taste
+of the speaker. It was thought by Norden to owe its name to Hippolits, a
+supposed Saint, who was very skilful in the treatment of horses. After
+the Saint&rsquo;s death a shrine was placed to his honour in the parish
+church, and to this shrine near the high altar divers persons brought
+their ailing steeds to be healed by the attendant priest with the help
+of relics of the Saint. The relics were of efficacy commensurate with
+the gifts of those who desired the Saint&rsquo;s blessing! &ldquo;The horses,&rdquo; says
+one writer, &ldquo;were brought out of the North Street, through the North
+Gate, and the North Door of the Church, which was boarded on purpose to
+bring up the horses to the Altar.&rdquo; The church was restored in 1878; it
+is of flint and rubble, and is now chiefly Perp. and Dec. with a few
+older portions. Note (1) ambry and double piscina in the chancel; (2)
+brass in N. transept to Robert Poydres (d. 1401); (3) brasses in
+chancel, with effigies, to the Hughes family, one of whom, Alice, was
+daughter of Thomas Bybsworth, &ldquo;an ancient dweller in this parish&rdquo;; she
+died 1594. There is a tumulus about 1 mile S.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Kelshall" id="Kelshall"></a><span class="smcap">Kelshall</span> (2&frac12; miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) has a
+restored, but interesting church, dedicated to St. Faith, partly Perp.
+and partly Dec. Over the S. porch is a small chamber, and in the N.
+aisle is a recess, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135"></a>[Pg&nbsp;135]</span>the nature of which is not quite understood, but it
+was probably used for the safe-keeping of banner-staves, crosses and
+other pre-Reformation ornaments. There is a brass with two effigies to
+&ldquo;Rychard Adane and Maryon his Wyff&rdquo; (d. 1400 and 1435 respectively). In
+the churchyard is an old sundial on the shaft of a stone cross. John
+Janeway, a young divine of astonishing spirituality, whose <i>Life</i>, by
+his brother James, was subsequently prefaced by Robert Hall, was buried
+here in 1657: Richard Baxter was one of his admirers. The Manor of
+<i>Chelesell</i> was the property of the Abbot of Ely at the time of the
+Conquest, having been given to that ancient foundation by the father of
+Edward the Confessor.</p>
+
+<p><i>Kensworth</i> was transferred to Bedfordshire in 1897.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Kimpton" id="Kimpton"></a><span class="smcap">Kimpton</span> (about 2&frac34; miles N. from Wheathampstead Station) lies
+between the hills that lead N. to Whitwell and S.E. to Ayot St.
+Lawrence. The village is very ancient, and was called <i>Kimeton</i> in Saxon
+days. The church, a little N. from the centre of the village, has been
+much restored: the N. aisle was added in 1861; the tower and the N.
+porch (over which is a parvise, as at Kelshall) were restored in 1887-8;
+the chancel in 1890, when the reredos was added. The building is E.E.
+Note the finely carved oak screen separating the S. aisle from the Dacre
+Chapel, formerly the rood screen, the piscina in the chapel itself, and
+the stained glass in the E. window to Thomas, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136"></a>[Pg&nbsp;136]</span>twenty-second Baron Dacre
+(d. 1890), to whom the reredos is also a memorial. <i>Kimpton Hoo</i>, in a
+beautiful park of about 250 acres, is 1 mile N.E. from the village. It
+is the seat of Viscount Hampden. Pretty walks may be taken E. <i>vi&acirc;</i>
+Kimpton Mill to Codicote, N. to Bendish and Whitwell, W. to Peter&rsquo;s
+Green, or S. to Lamer Park.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">King&rsquo;s Langley</span> is a large and interesting village. The river
+Gade flows between the main street and the station, <a name="cm10a" id="cm10a"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr10a"
+title="Original reads 'L.&amp;S.W.R.'">L.&amp;N.W.R.</a> Paper and
+straw plait are both made largely. The village owes its name to the fact
+that Henry III. built a palace on a spot still marked by a few fragments
+of ruin a little W. from the church, and the royal manor became known as
+Langley Regis, whereas the Langley on the E. side of the river belonged
+to the Abbey of St. Albans, and was called Abbot&rsquo;s Langley (<i><a href="#AbbotsLangley">q.v.</a></i>).
+Edmund de Langley, fifth son of Edward III., was born in this palace in
+1344. He became Duke of York, Earl of Cambridge and Lord Tivedale, and
+married Isabel, a younger daughter of Don Pedro of Castile. In 1392
+Richard II., with his first Queen, Anne of Bohemia, and many bishops,
+earls, lords and ladies, kept Christmas at King&rsquo;s Langley Palace.</p>
+
+<p>Near the palace was founded, by one Roger Helle, a priory of Dominican
+monks, which was enriched by Edward II. and several successive monarchs.
+The body of Piers Gaveston was brought from Oxford and buried in the
+church of this priory in 1315&mdash;he was beheaded <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137"></a>[Pg&nbsp;137]</span>on Blacklow Hill in
+1312&mdash;and what was then believed to be the body of Richard II. was
+brought to the same spot in 1400 for temporary sepulture. The priory was
+dissolved, like most priories, in the days of Henry VIII.; but it was
+restored by Mary. It was finally suppressed soon after the accession of
+Elizabeth. The church, at the S.E. extremity of the village street, is a
+Perp. structure of flint and Totternhoe stone; the W. tower is embattled
+and has an angle turret. It has been partially restored. On the N. side
+of the chancel stood formerly the tomb of Edmund de Langley and Isabel
+of Castile (both mentioned above) which was brought from the priory
+church at the Dissolution; it is now in the chapel at the end of the N.
+aisle. There is, I believe, no absolute proof that this is the tomb of
+Edmund and Isabel, but the evidence that it is so is very strong.
+Chauncy, two centuries back, wrote: &ldquo;On the north side of the chancel
+there is a Monument raised about five foot, with the Arms of France and
+England, with three Labels upon it, also the Arms of Peter, King of
+Castile and Leons, by which Coats it seems to be the Tomb where Edmond
+de Langley, the Fifth Son of Edward III. and Isabel his Wife, one of the
+Daughters of Don Pedro, King of Castile, was [were] interr&rsquo;d&rdquo;. During
+the removal of the tomb to its present position the bones of a male and
+two females were discovered; they are presumably those of Edmund and
+Isabel, and of Anne Mortimer, the wife of Edmund&rsquo;s second son, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138"></a>[Pg&nbsp;138]</span>Richard,
+Earl of Cambridge. The tomb is covered by a slab 7 feet 3 inches long;
+the sides are embossed with Plantagenet shields within cusps. Note the
+beautifully carved open screen between chapel and chancel, and the
+reredos, partly of marble, erected in 1877. The oaken pulpit is Perp.
+There are several other monuments: (1) to Hon. Sir W. Glascocke of
+Aldamhowe, Kt., Admiralty Judge in Ireland under Charles II. (d. 1688);
+(2) brass to John Carter, &ldquo;late of Gifres&rdquo; (d. 1588); the inscription
+states that he had two wives, that the first bore him four sons and five
+daughters and the second five sons and four daughters; (3) brass to
+William Carter and Alice his wife, 1528.</p>
+
+<p>Sir John Evans, in 1862, found an almond-shaped river-drift flint
+implement on a heap of stones in this neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">King&rsquo;s Walden</span> (about 5 miles S.W. from Hitchin) has an ancient
+church, carefully restored in 1868. It stands in the park of <i>The Bury</i>,
+a large mansion, Elizabethan in style. The embattled tower has masonry
+probably older than fourteenth century, and much of the nave arcade is
+Norman. Note the sculptured capitals of pillars, curiously similar to
+those at Old Shoreham. The chancel arch is E. Perp.; probably
+substituting its E.E. predecessor on very close lines; the corbels bear
+busts thought to resemble Henry VI. and Margaret of Anjou. In the
+chancel are a double piscina, and two E.E. lancet windows. The chancel
+screen is a really wonderful piece of work, in excellent
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139"></a>[Pg&nbsp;139]</span>preservation. In the N. aisle is an ambry, and in the S. aisle a sedile
+and two piscin&aelig;, and on the N. side another ambry. The font stands at
+the E. end of S. aisle, formerly the Chapel of the Virgin Mary.</p>
+
+<p><i>Kinsbourne Green</i> is on the Bedfordshire border, 2 miles N.E. from
+Harpenden. The Kennels of the Hertfordshire Hunt are here. The hamlet is
+close to Luton Hoo Park.</p>
+
+<p><i>Kitter&rsquo;s Green</i> is a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from King&rsquo;s Langley Station
+(L.&amp;N.W.R.). Abbot&rsquo;s Langley old church (<i><a href="#AbbotsLangley">q.v.</a></i>) is &frac12; mile N.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo017" name="illo017"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo017.png"
+      alt="KNEBWORTH PARK"
+      title="KNEBWORTH PARK"
+      height="347" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">KNEBWORTH PARK</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>KNEBWORTH, famous as the home of Bulwer Lytton, lies on high ground 1
+mile W. from the station (G.N.R.). The village is small, and in itself
+of little interest; it was formerly called Chenepeworde, and
+Knebbeworth. It is, however, ancient, and was valued in <i>Domesday Book</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Sir Thomas Bouchier, K.G., who fought for the Earl of Richmond at
+Bosworth Field, sold the manor of Knebbeworth to Robert Lytton, Esq.,
+Keeper of the Wardrobe to Henry VII., whose son William was buried in
+this parish. This Sir Robert began to erect a huge Tudor mansion on the
+site of a fortress which had stood since the days of the Conquest; it
+took several generations to complete it. The present house is the result
+of the work of demolition and reconstruction in the days of the
+novelist&rsquo;s mother, and of the enlarging of 1883, when the S. wing and
+entrance were added; it is pseudo-Gothic. The castellated parapet,
+cupola-topped <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140"></a>[Pg&nbsp;140]</span>turrets, griffins upon pinnacles and many mullioned
+windows are noticeable features from the grounds. Within, the finest
+sight is the grand old banqueting hall, with its gallery for minstrels,
+its Elizabethan oak-screen, and wainscots by Inigo Jones. Around, on all
+sides, are suits of armour, some dating from the days of Henry VII. The
+room is associated with memories of Elizabeth, who was sometimes
+entertained at Knebworth by Sir Rowland Lytton, whom she knighted; he
+was buried in the chancel of the little church in the park (see below)
+in 1582. The room in which Elizabeth slept on these occasions is still
+shown as &ldquo;Queen Elizabeth&rsquo;s Chamber,&rdquo; and contains a finely carved
+over-mantel (oak) and an oaken bedstead of colossal proportions. Among
+the distinguished guests so often entertained here by Bulwer Lytton were
+Dickens, Forster and Jerrold.</p>
+
+<p>The grounds are nearly perfect, art and nature seaming to strive to
+out-do one another. Well-kept lawns are figured by flower-beds of all
+shapes and sizes; the rosery is very large; the great variety of
+evergreens imparts every hue and shade to the extensive walks stretching
+W. from the house. The lawns are divided here and there by stone
+balustrades and overlooked by statues of classical and modern figures.
+There are many nooks, pleasure houses and alcoves. A long avenue of
+limes leads to the lake.</p>
+
+<p>The church, a little N. from the house, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141"></a>[Pg&nbsp;141]</span>is approached through lodge
+gates. It is for the most part E.E. The oaken pulpit is octagonal; the
+finely carved panels represent scenes in the life of Christ, one of them
+bears the date 1567. At the N. side of the chancel, which has a piscina,
+is the Lytton Chapel, &ldquo;a little Chapel or Burying Place, built by the
+Family of the Lyttons&rdquo;. Among the members of the family buried in the
+chapel were (1) Dame Judith Barrington, daughter of Sir Rowland Lytton,
+and wife to Sir Thomas Barrington of Hatfield Broad Oak (d. 1657); (2)
+Sir William Lytton, Kt. (d. 1660); (3) Sir Rowland Lytton, Kt. (d.
+1674). To the Sir Rowland Lytton who died in 1582 (see above) there is a
+fine brass with effigy, which also commemorates his wives Margaret and
+Anne, and his three children. There are other memorials both in the
+church and Lytton Chapel, among which note (1) brass to Simon Bache,
+Treasurer of the Household to Henry V. and Canon of St. Paul&rsquo;s (d.
+1414); (2) brass to John Hotoft, who filled the same office in the
+Household of Henry VI. (d. <i>circa</i> 1430). This brass formerly showed
+effigies of Hotoft in armour with his wife beside him. Note also, near
+the S. porch, two headstones with interesting inscriptions to servants
+of the Lytton family, and close by, in the park, the mausoleum erected
+by the mother of the novelist, who was buried within its walls. The
+epitaph to her memory on the exterior was written by her son. Passing
+out at the lodge gates we may turn left and reach a pretty dip, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142"></a>[Pg&nbsp;142]</span>from
+whence a walk of 3 miles N. over open country leads to Stevenage.</p>
+
+<p><i>Knebworth Green</i> skirts the S. side of the park.</p>
+
+<p><i>Langley</i>, a hamlet on the Hatfield-Hitchin road, is 2 miles S.W. from
+Stevenage Station (G.N.R.). Langley Bottom is a few minutes&rsquo; walk N.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Langleybury" id="Langleybury"></a><i>Langleybury</i> (1 mile S. from King&rsquo;s Langley Station, L.&amp;N.W.R.) is
+practically part and parcel of Hunton Bridge, the church standing W. and
+the village E. of the main road from Watford to Hemel Hempstead. The
+church is modern, a Gothic structure; on the S. is a good lich-gate.
+Close to the S. porch is the large cross of Sicilian marble, by the
+Florentine sculptor Romanelli, to the memory of the late W. J. Loyd, at
+whose expense the church was erected. The walk from Langleybury to
+Buck&rsquo;s Hill (W.), by way of West Wood, leads through some lovely bits of
+scenery, and should on no account be omitted. At the outset the confines
+of Grove Park are on the left and the road dips up and down as the woods
+are passed, and is shaded by fine beeches in many spots.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Layston" id="Layston"></a><i>Layston</i> was a village in Saxon times, but nothing now remains save the
+ruins of the church, still almost intact, at the meeting of two lanes, 1
+mile N.E. from Buntingford. It is a flint structure, E.E. and Perp. The
+S. porch is in part demolished. There are monuments to the Crowch family
+of seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143"></a>[Pg&nbsp;143]</span><a name="Lea" id="Lea"></a><span class="smcap">Lea</span>, river. (See Introduction, <a href="#Rivers">Section II</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><a name="Leavesden" id="Leavesden"></a><span class="smcap">Leavesden</span> (about 2&frac12; miles N. from Watford) is a village in the
+pretty district between Grove Park and Bricket Wood. The ecclesiastical
+parish was formed seventy years ago from the parishes of Watford and St.
+Albans. The huge brick building on high ground a little N. is the
+Metropolitan District Asylum for Idiots; it was erected in 1869. The
+church dates only from the formation of the parish and is situated at
+Garston, 1 mile E. It was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott and is E.E. <i>The
+Grove</i>, a large mansion of red brick, was erected in 1760 by one of the
+Villiers family, but has been restored and altered. The house contains a
+part of the pictures collected by Clarendon; comprising portraits by
+Vandyck, Lely, C. Janssens, Zucchero, Van Somer, Kneller, Hogarth, etc.
+The park is extensive and beautiful.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Lemsford" id="Lemsford"></a><span class="smcap">Lemsford</span> is another modern ecclesiastical parish, formed sixty
+years ago. It is nearly 3 miles N. from Hatfield, on the S.E. side of
+<i>Brocket Hall Park</i>. It is widely known for its large mill on the river
+Lea. The church, erected in 1859 as a memorial to the sixth Earl Cowper,
+is E.E. and Dec., with a good E. window, also to the memory of the earl.
+The tower (W.) is lofty and embattled.</p>
+
+<p><i>Letchmore Heath</i> (1&frac12; mile S.W. from Radlett Station, M.R.) is a small
+village.</p>
+
+<p><i>Letchworth</i> (2 miles N.E. from Hitchin) has a small Perp. church,
+containing a curious old brass to Thomas Wyrley, an early Rector (d.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144"></a>[Pg&nbsp;144]</span>1475). The effigy represents him with a heart in his hands. Another
+brass, much defaced, dates from <i>circa</i> 1400; it is to William Overbury
+and Isabel his wife. The village, which almost adjoins that of Willian
+(<i><a href="#Willian">q.v.</a></i>), is ancient, and was once the property of Robert Gernon, a
+Norman warrior who fought at Hastings. There was a church at <i>Leceworth</i>
+at least as early as <i>temp.</i> Henry I., for during the reign of that
+monarch it was given &ldquo;with all its appurtenances and twelve acres of
+land&rdquo; to the monastery at St. Albans. <i>Letchworth Hall</i>, now a manor
+house containing some good carved oak, was built by Sir William Lytton
+(<i>circa</i> 1620), and still bears on the S. front the arms of that family.</p>
+
+<p><i>Letty Green</i> is close to Cole Green Station, G.N.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Levens Green</i> (1 mile S. from Great Munden) has a tiny chapel-of-ease
+erected in 1893. The nearest station is Standon, G.E.R., 2&frac12; miles E.,
+between which and the hamlet lies the Old North Road.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Leverstock" id="Leverstock"></a><span class="smcap">Leverstock Green</span> (1&frac12; mile S.E. from Hemel Hempstead Station,
+M.R.) is in a pleasantly diversified district, at the junction of the
+roads from St. Albans and Abbot&rsquo;s Langley. It has a modern church,
+Gothic in style, erected just before the district was constituted an
+ecclesiastical parish in 1850.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ley Green</i> is a hamlet 1 mile N. from King&rsquo;s Walden Church, and about 4
+miles S.W. from Hitchin. It is on high ground.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145"></a>[Pg&nbsp;145]</span><a name="Lilley" id="Lilley"></a><span class="smcap">Lilley</span>, a village on the Bedfordshire border, is 4 miles N.E.
+from Luton (Beds). It was formerly called Lindley, and Lilly Hoo, and
+the old manor, like so many others, was given to a Norman (Goisfride de
+Bech) for services rendered at Hastings. The church is of ancient
+foundation, but was rebuilt, in E. Dec. style, in 1870-71. Several old
+memorials are still preserved, notably those to the Docwra family, early
+seventeenth century. <i>Putteridge Bury</i> (1 mile S.) is in the centre of a
+park of 450 acres; on or near the site of the house built by Thomas
+Docwra, J.P. and High Sheriff of Herts, who died there in 1602. The
+present mansion dates from the beginning of last century.</p>
+
+<p><i>Little Heath</i> is on the Middlesex border, 1 mile N.E. from Potter&rsquo;s Bar
+Station. The Dec. church, just off the Barnet-Hatfield road, is new.</p>
+
+<p><a name="LondonColney" id="LondonColney"></a><span class="smcap">London Colney</span>, a village on the main road from Barnet to St.
+Albans, is on the river Colne. The nearest station is that of the G.N.R.
+at St. Albans, 2&frac14; miles N.W. The church, built by the third Earl of
+Hardwicke in 1825, is a plain brick structure of Gothic character. Half
+a mile E. is <i>Tittenhanger Park</i>, a large brick mansion with tiled roof
+and dormer windows, built by Sir Henry Blount in 1654. The manor had
+belonged to the Abbots of St. Albans, who had a residence on the same
+spot, commenced during the abbacy of John de la Moote and completed
+during <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146"></a>[Pg&nbsp;146]</span>that of John Wheathampsted. Henry VIII. and Catherine of Arragon
+stayed here during the &ldquo;sweatinge sicknesse&rdquo; (1528).</p>
+
+<p><i>Long Lane</i> is a hamlet near the river Chess, 1&frac12; mile S.W. from
+Rickmansworth.</p>
+
+<p><a name="LongMarston" id="LongMarston"></a><i>Long Marston</i>, 1 mile N. from the Aylesbury Canal, is a village and
+ecclesiastical parish in the extreme W. of the county. The nearest
+station is Marston Gate, 1 mile N. The old church, a small Dec.
+structure, was pulled down twenty years ago with the exception of the
+tower, which stands in the disused graveyard. The new building,
+adjoining the present burial ground, is Gothic, and contains some
+portions of the old structure, and its two piscin&aelig;.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lower Green.</i> (See <a href="#Tewin">Tewin</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Ludwick Hyde</i> is in the parish of Hatfield, 3 miles N.E. from that
+town.</p>
+
+<p><i>Luffenhall</i>, a little hamlet, is in the hollow between Weston and
+Cottered, 5 miles W. from Buntingford Station. The district is one of
+winding lanes and field footpaths so characteristic of the county.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lye End</i>, 2 miles S. from Sandon Church, is a hamlet lying W. from the
+Buntingford-Royston road.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo018" name="illo018"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo018.jpg"
+      alt="OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END"
+      title="OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END"
+      height="405" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Mackery End</span>, 1&frac12; mile N.W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.,
+is close to Batford and Pickford mills on the river Lea. Charles and
+Mary Lamb had talked about the place &ldquo;all their lives&rdquo; and the essay by
+the former entitled &ldquo;Mackery End in Hertfordshire&rdquo; need only be named
+here. The place, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147"></a>[Pg&nbsp;147]</span>as Lamb mentions, was also called Mackarel End. John
+Wheathampsted, who became thirty-third Abbot of St. Albans in 1420, was
+the son of Hugh Bostok or Bostock of the village from which he took his
+name; his mother was the daughter of Thomas Makery, &ldquo;Lord of Makeyrend&rdquo;.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mangrove</i> is a hamlet, partly in Offley and partly in Lilley parishes;
+Mangrove Green is on the S. outskirts of Putteridge Bury Park, on the
+Bedfordshire border. The nearest station to the latter is Luton (Beds).</p>
+
+<p><i>Maple Cross</i>, a hamlet 2&frac12; miles S.W. from Rickmansworth, is near the
+river Chess. It lies between Mill End and West Hyde, on the road to
+Uxbridge.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Maran" id="Maran"></a><span class="smcap">Maran</span>, or <span class="smcap">Mimram</span>, river. (See <a href="#Rivers">Introduction</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Marford</i>, <i>Old</i> and <i>New</i>, are hamlets on the river Lea. The latter
+adjoins the E. side of Wheathampstead village; the former lies &frac14; mile
+farther E.; the cress-beds, the hand-bridge over the river, and some
+dilapidated cottages render it a picturesque spot. On the opposite side
+of the road from Hatfield to Wheathampstead lies The Devil&rsquo;s Dyke, a
+long, narrow gorge most beautifully wooded. It is a favourite haunt of
+the nightingale, as the writer can testify.</p>
+
+<p><a name="MarkyateSt" id="MarkyateSt"></a><span class="smcap">Market</span> or <span class="smcap">Markyate Street</span> (3&frac12; miles S.W. from Luton,
+Beds) is a village on the high road from St. Albans to Dunstable. The
+church, a little N. from the village, in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148"></a>[Pg&nbsp;148]</span>Cell Park, is small and
+uninteresting, with a chancel added in 1892. The mansion called Markyate
+Cell, a little farther N., is old, and occupies the site of the old
+Benedictine nunnery built by Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth Abbot of St.
+Albans, at the instigation of Roger the Monk, the church of which was
+consecrated in 1145. Cowper the poet was at school in the village, at
+the house of Dr. Pitman.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Marlowes" id="Marlowes"></a><span class="smcap">Marlowes</span> is a suburb of Hemel Hempstead (<i><a href="#HemelHempstead">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><i>Marsh Moor</i> lies between Hatfield Park and Mimms Park. It is a hamlet
+in the parish of North Mimms, 2 miles S. from Hatfield.</p>
+
+<p><i>Marston Gate</i> is little more than the station (L.&amp;N.W.R.) for Long
+Marston, 1 mile S. It is nearly the extreme W. point of the county.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mayden Croft</i>, or Maiden Croft, is near the source of the river Hiz,
+with the hamlet of Gosmore adjoining (S.E.). Some remains of a moat may
+be traced, which are supposed to mark the site of a nunnery. The manor
+is ancient; in the time of Edward III. it belonged to Sir Robert Nevill,
+Kt.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Meesdon" id="Meesdon"></a><span class="smcap">Meesdon</span> (6&frac12; miles N.E. from Buntingford) has a very ancient
+flint church, probably erected in the thirteenth century, but restored
+in 1877. The S. porch is Jacobean. The pavement of the Sacrarium is a
+mosaic of many coloured, vitrified tiles; it is almost unique in the
+county and is undoubtedly of great age. There is also in the chancel a
+curious monument and inscription to Robert Young, gent. (d. 1626). Most
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149"></a>[Pg&nbsp;149]</span>of the population are to be found at Meesdon Green, &frac12; mile W. from the
+church.</p>
+
+<p>On <i>Metley Hill</i>, between the Icknield Way and the village of
+Wallington, may be seen Bush Barrow, one of the many ancient mounds in
+the county concerning which so little is known.</p>
+
+<p><i>Micklefield Green</i> (&frac12; mile E. from Sarratt Church) is near the river
+Chess and the Bucks border. The nearest station is Chorley Wood (Met.
+R.) 2 miles S.W. The district is varied and undulating.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Mill End</span> (1 mile S.W. from Rickmansworth) is on the Middlesex
+border, close to the river Colne. The church (modern) is late Dec. in
+style, and has several good stained windows. The village and parish were
+only formed in 1875. There is also a hamlet of this name 1&frac12; mile S.W.
+from Buckland, on the Royston road.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mill Green</i>, at the N. end of Hatfield Park, is a pretty hamlet on the
+Lea, near the old paper mill.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Mimms, North</span> (3 miles N.W. from Potter&rsquo;s Bar Station, G.N.R.),
+is in one of the prettiest districts in the county, although so close to
+Middlesex. The church and parsonage are in the park, &frac12; mile from the
+village. Dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, the church is Dec., unusually
+pure in style. It is said to have been built by Sir Hugh de Magneville
+(<i>temp.</i> Stephen); I should think it more probable that Geoffrey de
+Magneville, then Lord of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150"></a>[Pg&nbsp;150]</span>Manor, was the real founder, as stated by
+Chauncy. However this may be, the structure is now almost wholly of
+later date. The monuments and brasses are numerous and very interesting;
+several of the latter, now in the chancel, were moved from their
+original positions on the floor during the restoration sixty years ago.
+Among them we may note (1) large black marble monument in chancel
+surmounted by a figure of justice, to John Lord Somers, Baron of Evesham
+(d. 1716); (2) altar tomb in N. aisle, with Elizabethan effigy, to a
+Derbyshire family named Beresford; the inscription is only in part
+decipherable; (3) mutilated brass to Sir Robert Knolles (d. 14&mdash;), and
+to Elizabeth his wife (d. 1458); (4) brass to Sir Henry Covert (d.
+1488); (5) fine old brass to Richard Boteler and Martha (Olyff) his wife
+(<i>circa</i> 1560); (6) brass, probably of Flemish workmanship, thought to
+be a memorial to William Kesteven, vicar (d. 1361). This effigy is
+closely described in Murray. &ldquo;It is apparently Flemish, and resembles in
+style that of Abbot de la Mare at St. Albans. He is vested in a chasuble
+and stole, has a chalice on his breast, and over him is a rich canopy,
+with, on the dexter side, St. Peter, and underneath SS. John the
+Evangelist and Bartholomew, and in corresponding places on the sinister
+SS. Paul, James the Great, and Andrew, with their respective emblems.
+Above is the Almighty holding the soul of the deceased; at the sides are
+two angels swinging censers.&rdquo; Separated <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151"></a>[Pg&nbsp;151]</span>from the chancel by an oaken
+screen is the chantry-chapel of St. Catherine, dating from early
+fourteenth century.</p>
+
+<p><i>North Mimms Park</i> surrounds the fine Jacobean manor house of red brick,
+recently in part restored, but originally built about 1600 by Sir Ralph
+Coningsby; it is very extensive and can show some good carving, and a
+chimney-piece dating from sixteenth century. E. from this park is
+<i>Potterels</i>, a modern house standing in another but smaller park, and E.
+again from Potterels is the more famous <i>Brookman&rsquo;s Park</i>, where, in
+1682, Andrew Fountaine erected the mansion soon afterwards purchased by
+the great Lord Somers who died here in 1716. The house was completely
+burnt down thirty years ago and has only in part been rebuilt. The
+further stretch of park adjoining Brookman&rsquo;s on the S. is <i>Gubbins</i>, or
+more correctly <i>Gobions</i>, where formerly stood the old manor house in
+which Sir Thomas More lived awhile with his family. The walks in each of
+these parks are very fine, and most beautifully wooded; they command
+distant views in many directions, and, in the autumn, are a perfect
+study in colour. No London cyclist should fail to visit this picturesque
+and interesting neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Mimms, South</span>, recently included in the administrative county of
+Herts, has a restored, E. Perp. church, with fine massive W. tower. The
+Frowyk chantry, at E. end of N. aisle, contains a very ancient tomb with
+recumbent effigy of a knight in armour, under a richly <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152"></a>[Pg&nbsp;152]</span>designed canopy.
+The knight was a Frowyk, and there are also some mutilated brasses to
+this family. The village is prettily situated on rising ground, 1&frac12; mile
+W. from Potter&rsquo;s Bar Station, G.N.R. (Middlesex).</p>
+
+<p><i>Moneybury Hill</i> is on the Bucks border, close to the Bridgewater
+Column, 2 miles S.W. from Tring Station.</p>
+
+<p><i>Moor Green</i> (3 miles W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet
+in Ardeley parish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Morrell Green</i> is a hamlet 2 miles E. from Barkway on the Essex border.
+The nearest station is Buntingford, nearly 6 miles S.E.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mortgrove</i>, on the Beds border, is little more than a modern house, 1&frac12;
+mile S. from Hexton.</p>
+
+<p><i>Munches Green</i> lies in the centre of that quiet district of villages
+and hamlets which stretches between the G.N.R. and G.E.R. It is a hamlet
+a little S.E. from <i>Ardeley Bury</i> and nearly 4 miles W. from Westmill
+Station, G.E.R.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Munden, Great</span>, formerly Mundon Furnival, from Gerrard de
+Furnival, who was Lord of the Manor in the time of Richard I., is a
+village 2 miles W. from Braughing Station, G.E.R. There is a Norman
+doorway on the N. side of the church, and a small Perp. reredos which
+was discovered during restoration in 1865. There is a brass in the
+chancel to John Lightfoot, Canon of Ely (d. 1675). The hamlet of Nasty,
+a little N.E. from the church, now takes Munden Furnival as its
+alternative <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153"></a>[Pg&nbsp;153]</span>name, but the older historians give that title to the
+district around the parish church.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Munden, Little</span>, or Munden Frewell, is 2&frac14; miles S.W. from the
+above, and 4 miles W. from Standon Station, G.E.R. The church,
+conspicuously placed on the hill, dates from the thirteenth century; it
+was restored in 1866-68. It is a structure of many parts, consisting of
+nave of three bays, chancel, N. chapel, N. aisle, N. and S. porches, and
+W. tower. Note the two altar tombs beneath the chancel arcade, at the S.
+side of the chapel, each supporting the stone effigies of a male and
+female, presumably man and wife. They bear no inscriptions, but from the
+arms and shields figured on one of them it is conjectured to be the tomb
+of Sir John Thornbury, Kt., and his lady; whilst the other is probably
+that of his son Philip Thornbury and his wife: the former dates from
+about 1340-50. Early in the fourteenth century the manor belonged to a
+Knight named Frewell or de Freville, hence the old adjunct of the
+village. <i>Rowney Abbey</i>, now a modern mansion, takes its name from
+Rowenea Priory, founded by Conan, Duke of Brittany, about 1164, and
+occupied for several generations by a Benedictine prioress and nuns. At
+Munden Street, or Dane End, &frac14; mile S. from Little Munden, were formerly
+two or three large tumuli, long since levelled.</p>
+
+<p><i>Nash Mills</i>, on the river Gade, is a hamlet in the parish of Apsley
+End, 2 miles S. from Hemel Hempstead. The House was the seat of Sir John
+Evans, K.C.B., F.R.S., etc., the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154"></a>[Pg&nbsp;154]</span>great arch&aelig;ologist, who had a rich
+collection of coins, prehistoric flints, implements, etc., some of which
+were discovered in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Nettleden" id="Nettleden"></a><i>Nettleden</i> was formerly in Bucks, but was transferred to Herts a few
+years ago. The village is beautifully situated at the foot of a wooded
+hill, at the meeting of the roads from Great Gaddesden and Little
+Gaddesden. The small parish church is a Perp. structure of stone, with a
+N. porch; it was partly rebuilt by the last Duke of Bridgewater, and was
+restored in 1887. Note the carved oak pulpit, which, like that in Little
+Gaddesden Church, was the gift of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888). Sir John
+Cotton, Vice-Chamberlain to Edward VI., was buried here. The nearest
+station is Berkhampstead, L.&amp;N.W.R., 2&frac12; miles S.W.</p>
+
+<p><i>New Mill</i> is 1 mile N. from Tring, between the hamlets of Little Tring
+and Tring Grove. The famous reservoirs, often the resting-place of rare
+water-fowl, are within a short walk.</p>
+
+<p><i>Newgate Street</i>, a small hamlet in Hatfield parish, is, however, 6
+miles S.E. from that town. It is in a prettily wooded district, close to
+<i>Ponsbourne Park</i>.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Newnham" id="Newnham"></a><span class="smcap">Newnham</span> (2&frac12; miles N. from Baldock) is a village lying on high
+ground, with an E.E. battlemented church on a little knoll above a
+brook. It consists of chancel, nave of four bays with clerestory, S.
+aisle and porch, and W. tower. The interior can show little of interest,
+but there are brasses, (1) on chancel floor, to Sir William Dyer, Bart.
+(d. 1680); (2) to a <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155"></a>[Pg&nbsp;155]</span>family, the man in civic costume (<i>circa</i> 1490);
+(3) to Joan, wife of James Dowman (d. 1607), and her eight children.</p>
+
+<p><i>Newsell</i>, a hamlet 1 mile N. from Barkway, lies a little W. from the
+Cambridge Road. The nearest station is Royston, G.N.R., 3&frac12; miles N.W.
+Newsell Park is a modern mansion S. from the hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><i>No Man&rsquo;s Land</i> is a large tract of common, partly covered by furze,
+stretching left from the road between Sandridge and Wheathampstead. Some
+years ago a farmer close by collected quite a museum of stuffed birds,
+etc., shot in the neighbourhood, which many persons visited, but I
+understand the collection is now dispersed.</p>
+
+<p>In 1884 Sir John Evans showed to Mr. W. G. Smith &ldquo;a good white ovate
+pal&aelig;olithic implement,&rdquo; one of two found on No Man&rsquo;s Land Common. In
+December, 1886, Mr. Smith visited the gravel pits there and found a
+somewhat similar implement <i>in situ</i>; this latter is engraved in his
+<i>Man the Prim&aelig;val Savage</i>. At the same time Mr. Smith found two
+neolithic celts on the common.</p>
+
+<p><i>Nobland Green</i> (1&frac14; mile N.W. from Widford Station, G.E.R.) is little
+more than a farm and a few cottages.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Northaw" id="Northaw"></a><span class="smcap">Northaw</span> (2 miles E. from Potter&rsquo;s Bar Station, G.N.R.) is a
+village on the Middlesex border, near the source of the river Colne, and
+a place of considerable interest. In the wood N. from the village there
+lived a hermit named <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156"></a>[Pg&nbsp;156]</span>Sigar, the subject of some monkish legends. He
+lived about the time of Henry I., and was buried beside Roger the Monk
+(see <a href="#MarkyateSt">Markyate Street</a>) in the S. aisle of the Baptistery of St. Alban&rsquo;s
+Abbey. There was originally a small church close to the village, E.E. or
+perhaps late Norman; this was replaced by the cruciform church of St.
+Thomas Becket, a pseudo-Perp. structure, destroyed by fire in 1881; the
+present cruciform building of Ancaster stone is Dec. with a conspicuous
+W. tower carrying four pinnacles. Note the piscina, three sedilia and
+credence table in chancel; also the finely carved font of Ancaster
+stone, on marble pillars, presented by the children of the parish. There
+are several memorial windows, of only local interest; but the pulpit and
+reredos are both good, the former showing the four Evangelists in
+canopied recesses. Unfortunately, only a portion of the old registers
+were saved from the fire of 1881.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Northchurch" id="Northchurch"></a><span class="smcap">Northchurch</span>, or Berkhampstead St. Mary, forms one long street
+with Great Berkhampstead, but is a separate village, 1 mile W. from
+Berkhampstead Station, L.&amp;N.W.R. The cruciform church is Dec.; it stands
+in a small graveyard close to the high road to Tring. The most curious
+memorial is the brass near the porch to Peter the Wild Boy, who was
+found wild in a forest in Hanover in 1725 and brought to England at the
+desire of Queen Caroline. He lived at a farm at Broadway (<i><a href="#Broadway">q.v.</a></i>) and
+died in 1785. There is also a <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157"></a>[Pg&nbsp;157]</span>curious sentence about this church in
+Chauncy: &ldquo;Henry Axtil, a rich Man starved himself, and was buried here
+April 12, 1625, 1 Car. I.&rdquo; The church was entirely restored in 1883,
+when the present N. aisle was added.</p>
+
+<p><i>Northfield</i>, a small hamlet, is a little S. from Ivinghoe (Bucks).</p>
+
+<p><a name="Norton" id="Norton"></a><span class="smcap">Norton</span>, near the tiny river Ivel and the Roman Icknield Way, is
+1 mile W. from Baldock. The large building on the hill-top close by is
+the Three Counties Asylum. The manor belonged to the Abbot of St. Albans
+at the time of the Conquest; and in the year 1260 Roger de Norton, who
+took his name from this village, became the twenty-fourth abbot of that
+monastery. The church, E.E., is of great antiquity, some parts of it
+having been little altered; it is of flint, and stands at the N.E. end
+of the village. It contains two or three old memorials, but none of
+historic interest. A pretty walk from the church leads through Norton
+Bury and beside the Ivel to Radwell Mill.</p>
+
+<p><i>Norton Green</i>, between Knebworth Park and Stevenage, is &frac12; mile W. from
+the Great North Road. It is a small hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Nup End</i> (1&frac12; mile W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is almost one with
+Knebworth Green. Codicote church is 1 mile S.W.</p>
+
+<p><i>Nuthampstead</i> (about 5 miles N.E. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) is
+a large hamlet on the Essex border. The parish churches of Barkway (W.),
+Anstey (S.W.), and Meesdon (S.E.) may all be reached within a short
+walk.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158"></a>[Pg&nbsp;158]</span><a name="Offley" id="Offley"></a><span class="smcap">Offley</span> or <span class="smcap">Offley St. Leger</span> (3 miles S.W. from
+Hitchin) is a village at the meeting of the ways from Hitchin, Temple
+Dinsley, and Lilley. It owes its name to Offa, King of the Mercians, who
+had a palace here, as we learn from his life by Matthew Paris, and its
+adjunct to the St. Legiers, who became Lords of the Manor soon after the
+Conquest. Miss Hester Salusbury, who became Mrs. Thrale, and afterwards
+Mrs. Piozzi, used as a child to visit at <i>Offley Place</i>, in the park
+close to the church. The old mansion was built by Sir Richard Spencer in
+1600, and in part rebuilt early last century, when its style was changed
+from Jacobean to a form of Gothic.</p>
+
+<p>The church (restored Perp.) stands in the park, close to the road. Note
+(1) monument in chancel to Sir H. Penrice, Kt. (d. 1752); a figure of
+Truth standing on a sarcophagus of black marble, the whole finely
+executed; (2) monument in white marble, by Nollekens, to Sir Thomas
+Salusbury, Kt. (d. 1773), and Sarah his wife (d. 1804); (3) brass with
+effigy, to John Samwell (d. 1529), and his wives Elizabeth and Joan; (4)
+brass to a civilian and his family (<i>circa</i> 1530); (5) well carved Perp.
+font.</p>
+
+<p><i>Offley, Little</i>, is a hamlet 1&frac14; mile N.W. from the above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Offley Green</i> is 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R. The walk
+beside <a name="cm11" id="cm11"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr11"
+title="Original reads 'Julian's'">Julians</a> Park to Rushden, 1 mile S.W., is very pleasant.</p>
+
+<p><i>Offley Holes</i> (2&frac12; miles S.W. from Hitchin) is a small hamlet. Offley
+Grange, Offley Hoo, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159"></a>[Pg&nbsp;159]</span>Offley Cross and Offley Bottom are all in the
+immediate neighbourhood, W. and N.W.</p>
+
+<p><i>Old Hall Green</i> (1&frac12; mile W. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) lies W. from
+the Old North Road. It is a small hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Oxhey" id="Oxhey"></a><span class="smcap">Oxhey</span> (2 miles S. from Watford) is a hamlet on the Middlesex
+border. It has a good modern church, E.E. in style. N. lies <i>Oxhey
+Place</i>, on the site of the old home of the Heydon family, rebuilt by Sir
+William Bucknall in 1668, and again by Hon. William Bucknall in 1799.
+The chapel, close to the old mansions, was spared by both those
+renovators, but has since been repeatedly restored. It contains many
+interesting monuments, conspicuous among which is that on the S. wall to
+Sir James Altham (d. 1617) who had built the chapel on the site of an
+earlier structure in 1612. The old judge is represented kneeling in his
+robes between two pillars, beneath a canopy of alabaster; behind him is
+the effigy of his third wife Helen (Saunderson). Note the carved oak
+seventeenth century reredos, occupying the whole of the E. end of the
+chapel. It is divided into three compartments by two columns, massive
+and twisted, with Corinthian capitals; these support a frieze, with
+cornice and pediment. Note also the oak ceiling, and the five Tudor
+windows (replaced). <i>Oxhey Hall</i>, N.W. from the chapel, is now a farm;
+but can still show the wonderful ceiling of carved oak, in sixteen
+panels, which must be very ancient.</p>
+
+<p><a name="PanshangerPark" id="PanshangerPark"></a>PANSHANGER PARK, Lord Desborough, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160"></a>[Pg&nbsp;160]</span>K.C.V.O, should be visited by all who
+love an historic home surrounded by beautiful scenery. It lies almost
+midway between Hatfield and Ware Parks; the house itself is 1&frac12; mile N.
+from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. The park is very extensive (about 900
+acres); the river Maran flows through it from W. to S.E., opening into a
+lake S. from the house. It is famous for its splendid timber; the
+wonderful &ldquo;Panshanger Oak,&rdquo; one of the very largest in England, stands
+W. from the house.</p>
+
+<p>Panshanger is not a &ldquo;correct&rdquo; structure from an architectural
+standpoint; the writer of Murray&rsquo;s Handbook describes it well as &ldquo;a
+stucco-fronted, semi-castellated Gothic mansion of the Walpole-Wyatt
+type&rdquo;. Most ramblers, however, are not architects, and the grey stone
+mansion and its surroundings are, as a whole, as picturesque as they can
+well be. The greater part of it was built by Peter, fifth Earl Cowper,
+in 1801; but the picture gallery, overlooking the terrace and gardens,
+was a later addition. The house was partially burnt in 1855. The older
+home of the family stood at Cole Green&mdash;then called Colne Green.</p>
+
+<p>The famous <i>Cowper Collection</i> is largely the result of the taste and
+perseverance of the third earl, who resided for some years at Florence.
+Only a few of the pictures can be named here: Madonna, by Raphael
+(1508); Holy Family, by Fra Bartolommeo; Mountainous Coast (fishermen in
+foreground), by Salvator Rosa; Nativity, by Carlo Dolce; Virgin
+Enthroned, by Paul <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161"></a>[Pg&nbsp;161]</span>Veronese; Third Earl Cowper and His Family; First
+Earl Cowper, by Sir Godfrey Kneller; Francis Bacon, by Van Somer;
+Turenne, by Rembrandt; Charles Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, by
+Janssens. The whole collection is worth careful study. Permission to
+view may be obtained when the family are away.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Park Street</span>, a large hamlet with station 1/3 mile W.
+(L.&amp;N.W.R.), is on the river Colne, 2 miles S. from St. Albans. The
+parish church is at Frogmore (<i><a href="#Frogmore">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><i>Parker&rsquo;s Green</i> (4 miles S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) is a
+hamlet adjoining Wood End.</p>
+
+<p><i>Patient End</i> may be reached from Braughing Station, G.E.R., 4 miles
+S.E., the road being more direct than that from Westmill Station, about
+the same distance as the crow flies. The hamlet lies between Albury and
+Furneaux Pelham.</p>
+
+<p><i>Patmore Heath</i> is 1 mile S.E. from the above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pepperstock</i>, a hamlet on the Beds border, is a little W. from the
+Harpenden-Luton road, and close to Luton Hoo Park.</p>
+
+<p><i>Perry Green</i> (1&frac14; mile S.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R.) is a small
+scattered hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Peter&rsquo;s Green</i>, on the Beds border, lies at the meeting of several
+roads; the Half Moon and Rising Star with a few cottages comprise the
+hamlet. The descent W. towards Chiltern Green Station, M.R., commands a
+fine view, looking towards Luton Hoo Park. The several <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162"></a>[Pg&nbsp;162]</span>ways (one is
+hardly more than a lane) lead S.E. to Kimpton, S. to Harpenden, N. to
+Lawrence End Park, and N.E. to Breachwood Green and Bendish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Piccotts End</i> is passed when going from Hemel Hempstead to Great
+Gaddesden. It is on the river Gade, at the N.E. extremity of Gadesbridge
+Park.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pin Green</i> (1&frac12; mile E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) lies between the
+Great North Road and the river Beane.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Pirton" id="Pirton"></a><span class="smcap">Pirton</span> (3&frac12; miles N.W. from Hitchin) is an ancient village on
+the Beds border, said to owe its name to one Peri, who possessed it in
+Saxon times. William I. gave it to Ralph de Limesie, or Limesy, who
+founded the church and gave the tithes of it to the Abbey of St. Albans.
+The site of the castle built by Ralph is thought to be at Toot Hill, W.
+from the church, where a moat may be traced. The church was originally
+cruciform, but the transepts have long disappeared; the tower, massive
+and embattled, still standing between nave and chancel. Restoration has
+been carefully carried on recently; the tower was rebuilt in 1877, but
+some Norman work may still be traced in its arches. Note (1) monument
+and curious inscription to Jane, wife of Thomas Docwra (d. 1645); (2)
+double piscina, fourteenth century, in S. wall of chancel.</p>
+
+<p>Pirton should be visited for the fine old houses in its neighbourhood.
+<i>High Down</i>, S. from the church, is Elizabethan, with gables, twisted
+chimneys and mullioned windows; it was <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163"></a>[Pg&nbsp;163]</span>formerly the home of the
+Docwras. <i>Pirton Hall</i>, on a hill N.W. from the village, is also
+Elizabethan, and the <i>Rectory Manor House</i> and <i>Hammond&rsquo;s Farm</i> are both
+ancient. In the latter is some fine old carved oak.</p>
+
+<p><i>Plummers</i> is 1&frac12; mile S.W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R. It consists of
+a few cottages.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ponfield</i> lies between Bedwell and Bayfordbury Parks. It is a small
+hamlet nearly 2 miles S.E. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Poplar&rsquo;s Green</i> is on the river Maran, on the W. edge of Panshanger
+Park. The old church at Tewin is less than 1 mile N.W. The station is
+Cole Green.</p>
+
+<p><i>Potten End</i> (2 miles N.E. from Berkhampstead Station, L.&amp;N.W.R.) has a
+modern chapel-of-ease to Nettleden (1 mile N.). The hamlet is prettily
+situated between the rivers Gade and Bulbourne.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Preston" id="Preston"></a><span class="smcap">Preston</span> (4 miles W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+beautifully situated on high ground. The Church of St. Martin is a small
+building a few yards W. from the green, a modern erection; close by is
+the Bunyan Chapel, and &frac12; mile N. is Bunyan&rsquo;s dell, where the author of
+the <i>Pilgrim&rsquo;s Progress</i> often preached. <i>Temple Dinsley</i>, a manor house
+a little E. from the Red Lion, stands on the site of the preceptory of
+the Knights Templars, founded by Bernard de Baliol in the reign of
+Stephen.</p>
+
+<p><i>Primrose Hill</i> is a hamlet in King&rsquo;s Langley parish, &frac12; mile N. from the
+station, L.&amp;N.W.R.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Puckeridge" id="Puckeridge"></a><span class="smcap">Puckeridge</span>, a village on the Old North <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164"></a>[Pg&nbsp;164]</span>Road, nearly 1 mile
+S.W. from Braughing Station, G.E.R., was visited by Pepys on more than
+one occasion. Here, at the White Hart Inn, the road divides, going left
+nearly due N. to Royston and right to Cambridge. The village lies partly
+in Standon and partly in Braughing parish. The nearest church is at
+Standon, 1 mile S.E., but divine service is conducted in the church
+schoolroom.</p>
+
+<p><i>Puddephats</i> (3 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet in
+Flamstead parish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Purwell Mill</i>, on the river Purwell or Pirrel, 1 mile E. from Hitchin,
+stands near the spot where the tesselated pavement of a Roman villa was
+discovered many years ago, in excellent preservation.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Puttenham" id="Puttenham"></a><span class="smcap">Puttenham</span> (1&frac12; mile S. from Marston Gate Station, L.&amp;N.W.R.)
+lies near the Clinton chalk hills, in the extreme W. of the county, on
+the Bucks border. The church, close to the village, is of several
+periods, parts of the structure being E.E. and other portions Perp. and
+Tudor. Several portions should be carefully noted: (1) very large
+embattled W. tower, built of blocks of Ketton stone with flints laid in
+squares between each block; (2) roof of nave, thought to date from
+<i>temp.</i> Edward IV.; with two shields under the ridges, one bearing the
+arms of Zouch, the church having belonged to the Priory of Ashby; (3)
+solid oak pews, probably coeval with nave roof. The S. porch was rebuilt
+in 1889. The vill of Puteham belonged to Leofwin, brother to <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165"></a>[Pg&nbsp;165]</span>Harold
+Godwin; William I. gave it to his half-brother, Odo, Bishop of Bayeux.</p>
+
+<p><i>Queen Hoo Hall.</i> (See <a href="#Bramfield">Bramfield</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Rabley Heath</i> (1 mile S.W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) adjoins
+Sallow Wood. Knebworth and Codicote churches are about equidistant (1&frac14;
+mile), N.W. and S.W. respectively.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Radlett" id="Radlett"></a><span class="smcap">Radlett</span>, with station on M.R. (main line), is about 5 miles S.
+from St. Albans, on the high-road from the Marble Arch to that city.
+Seen left from the train the neighbourhood is very pretty, the spire of
+the church showing among the trees some distance before the station is
+reached. The cruciform church is modern (1864), E. Dec. in style, with
+several good windows of stained glass. A picturesque ramble may be taken
+by turning into any lane in the vicinity, especially towards the Valley
+of the Colne, W. A potter&rsquo;s kiln of the Roman Age was discovered here.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Radwell" id="Radwell"></a><span class="smcap">Radwell</span>, on the Beds border, is in a charming district,
+threaded by the little river Ivel, 1&frac12; mile N.N.W. from Baldock. The mill
+is reached by turning left after passing The Compasses, a quaint old
+inn, where a story is told of the &ldquo;Maid of the Mill,&rdquo; a local beauty,
+who captured many hearts in days long past.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnnum">[5]</a> Between The Compasses and
+the mill stands the little Perp. church, very ancient, but in part
+restored on several occasions. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166"></a>[Pg&nbsp;166]</span>It has no tower, the two bells hanging
+in a small turret at the W. end of nave. Here, as at Norton, there are
+several memorials to the Pym family; and a few others worth noting: (1)
+brass, with effigies, to John Bell, Gent. (d. 1516), and his two wives;
+this was discovered during restoration, about twenty-five years ago, but
+the inscription was copied by Chauncy, so it must have been hidden by
+some alterations effected after, say, 1690; (2) marble monument to John
+Parker, Kt. (d. 1595), and Mary, his wife (d. 1574); the latter was
+buried at Baldock. There is also a small brass to Elizabeth (Gage or
+Cage), wife of John Parker (d. 1602). The font is fourteenth century.
+Radwell, formerly Reedwell, is said to owe its name to the many reeds
+that grew by the river-side. There are plenty of moor hens, coots and
+dab-chicks on the lake-like expansion of the Ivel near the mill.</p>
+
+<p><i>Red Heath</i> is in the parish of Croxley Green, 2 miles N.N.E. from
+Rickmansworth.</p>
+
+<p><i>Red Hill</i>, 4 miles E. from Baldock, is a small hamlet in a very quiet
+neighbourhood. The nearest church is at Wallington, &frac34; mile N.W.
+<i>Julians</i>, a substantial house in the park, &frac12; mile S., was built early
+in the seventeenth century.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Redbourn" id="Redbourn"></a><span class="smcap">Redbourn</span> (<i>i.e.</i>, the road by the burn) lies on the old Watling
+Street, 4 miles N.W. from St. Albans. The river Ver, here a small
+stream, skirts the E. side of the village. The old manor, like that of
+Abbots Langley, was given <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167"></a>[Pg&nbsp;167]</span>to the Abbey of St. Albans by Egelwine the
+Black and Wincelfled, his wife, in the days of Edward the Confessor. St.
+Amphibalus was probably buried here after his martyrdom; his barrow was
+on the Common, and the story of the removal of his bones to St. Albans
+is narrated in Matthew Paris, and is referred to in the Introduction
+(<a href="#IntroIX" >Section IX.</a>). The church of St. Mary, at Church End, &frac34; mile W. from the
+station (M.R.), dates from Norman times; the only existing portions of
+the ancient structure are the three columns of the N. aisle arcade, but
+much thirteenth and fourteenth centuries work still stands. It was
+largely rebuilt by Abbot John Wheathampsted (<i>temp.</i> Henry VI.). Note
+(1) almost unique carved oak rood screen, double canopied; (2) pointed
+arches of S. side of nave, replacing those defaced during the
+Commonwealth; (3) Eastern sepulchre and sedilia in chancel; (4) piscin&aelig;
+in N. aisle and lady-chapel; (5) brass in chancel, with eight kneeling
+effigies, without date; (6) brass in chancel to Richard Pecock, or Pekok
+(d. 1512). There are silk and corn mills on the Ver, close by.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Reed" id="Reed"></a><span class="smcap">Reed</span> lies on the chalk range, midway between Buntingford and
+Royston, about 3&frac12; miles S. from Royston Station, G.N.R. The village lies
+right from the Old North Road. One of the best Norman doorways in the
+county is on the N. of the little church, which also contains good Dec.
+portions. The tower alone was untouched during the restoration of sixty
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168"></a>[Pg&nbsp;168]</span>years ago. Some remains of two moats are a little E. from the village;
+Reed End, Reed Green and Reed Wood, are in the vicinity. The
+neighbourhood is less wooded and picturesque than most of the county.</p>
+
+<p><i>Revel End</i> (1&frac12; mile S.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Rickmansworth" id="Rickmansworth"></a>RICKMANSWORTH is in the extreme S.W. of the county; the rivers Colne,
+Chess, and Gade unite here, close to the Grand Junction Canal; and it is
+easy to understand why the place was formerly called &ldquo;Rykemereswearth,&rdquo;
+<i>i.e.</i>, the rich moor-meadow. It is a compact little town with many
+quaint houses and quainter by-paths. The residence now called <i>Basing
+House</i>, in the High Street, was for some time the home of William Penn,
+the Quaker; a photograph of it was long since reproduced in the
+<i>Quiver</i>. The manor was given by Offa to the Abbots of St. Albans, who
+retained it till the Dissolution, after which Edward VI. granted it to
+Nicholas Ridley, Bishop of London. Henry III. granted a market to be
+held in the town every Wednesday; it was subsequently held on Saturday,
+but has long been discontinued. Paper-making and brewing are now largely
+carried on in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>The church, at the S. end of Church Street, was rebuilt (except the
+tower) in 1826; and again in 1870, from designs by Sir Arthur Blomfield.
+It is Perp., almost entirely embattled, and is constructed of flints,
+with stone <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169"></a>[Pg&nbsp;169]</span>dressings. Note (1) sedilia, piscina and modern oak stalls
+in chancel; (2) restored marble altar tomb carrying shield of arms, and
+inscription to Sir Henry Cary, Baron of Leppington and Earl of Monmouth
+(d. 1661); (3) brass with effigy to Thomas Day (d. 1613), and his wives
+Alice (d. 1585), and Joane (d. 1598); a separate inscription in the
+&ldquo;Ashbie Chapple&rdquo; ran&mdash;I am not sure if it is still preserved:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;Here ly byrid undyr this stone<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Thomas Davy and his two Wyfs Alice and Joan&rdquo;.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The vicarage is thought to be the oldest in Hertfordshire; it still
+retains portions dating from the middle of the fifteenth century.</p>
+
+<p><a name="MoorParkRick" id="MoorParkRick"></a>One mile S. is <i>Moor Park</i> (Lord Ebury). The house has undergone many
+changes. George Nevil, Archbishop of York, built a house in the park in
+the reign of Edward IV., and sometimes entertained that monarch, and we
+read of a lodge (was it Nevil&rsquo;s house?) being here when Cardinal Wolsey
+owned the manor of &ldquo;More Park&rdquo;. The estate changed hands several times
+before we find it in the hands of the unfortunate James Fitzroy, Duke of
+Monmouth, who is believed to have built a large mansion on the site of
+the present house. This mansion was almost rebuilt by B. H. Styles, a
+man who made a fortune over South Sea Shares, and is said to have spent
+&pound;130,000 in erecting and adorning his house in this beautiful park, with
+the assistance of the architect Leoni. The house that Styles built still
+largely survives in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170"></a>[Pg&nbsp;170]</span>the present structure, after several alterations
+and much embellishment during eighteenth, nineteenth and twentieth
+centuries. It is a large and stately mansion of Portland stone, with
+fine Corinthian portico, the columns of which are about 50 feet high.
+The vast hall was almost covered with classical and medi&aelig;val designs by
+Sir James Thornhill, who had to sue Styles before he could obtain his
+remuneration; note the huge statues supporting the five marble doorways.
+The house may be seen to advantage some distance from the terrace; but
+it must be remembered that it no longer retains its wings, which were
+removed when Mr. T. B. Rous lived at Moor Park towards the end of the
+eighteenth century.</p>
+
+<p>Permission must be obtained before the park, grounds or house can be
+inspected. The park contains about 500 acres and is famous for its
+splendid timber, some of its oaks being of almost perfect development
+and proportions.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo019" name="illo019"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo019.jpg"
+      alt="RICKMANSWORTH"
+      title="RICKMANSWORTH"
+      height="477" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">RICKMANSWORTH</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Rickmansworth Park</i>, N. from the town, has a modern house well
+situated. The park stretches nearly to Loudwater Mill on the river
+Chess, and is, like Moor Park, beautifully wooded.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Ridge" id="Ridge"></a><span class="smcap">Ridge</span> (2&frac12; miles S.W. from Potter&rsquo;s Bar Station, G.N.R.) is on
+the Middlesex border, close to South Mimms. The village doubtless owes
+its name to its situation on the hill. The small church is mainly Perp.,
+but the chancel is E. Dec.; it contains several memorials to the Blount
+family, including one to Charles <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171"></a>[Pg&nbsp;171]</span>Blount (1654-93). He was an infidel
+of more bitterness than ability, as may be seen from his translation of
+Philostratus&rsquo;s <i>Apollonius Tyan&aelig;us</i>; readers may remember that his <i>Just
+Vindication of Learning</i>, etc., was stigmatised by Macaulay as &ldquo;garbled
+extracts&rdquo; from Milton&rsquo;s <i>Areopagitica</i>. On being refused a licence to
+marry his deceased wife&rsquo;s sister, he committed suicide&mdash;Pope says he
+&ldquo;despatch&rsquo;d himself&rdquo;. The Blount family resided in the neighbourhood for
+many generations; Sir Henry Pope Blount, father of the above-mentioned
+Charles, &ldquo;built here a fair structure of Brick, made fair Walks and
+Gardens to it, and died seiz&rsquo;d thereof&rdquo;. He was the author of <i>A Voyage
+into the Levant</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ringshall</i> is a hamlet on the Bucks border, in the parish of Little
+Gaddesden.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roe Green</i> (4 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) is in a pleasant
+and very quiet neighbourhood. The nearest parish church is Sandon, about
+1 mile N.E. Roe Wood is a little N. from the hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roestock</i>, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is 1 mile N. from the
+Park. Smallford Station, G.N.R., is 1 mile N.W.</p>
+
+<p><i>Round Bush</i> consists of a few cottages, 1&frac12; mile S.W. from Radlett
+Station, M.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Row Green</i> (1&frac14; mile S.W. from Hatfield) lies close to the road from St.
+Albans to Hatfield. Row Hyde is a little farther S.W.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rowley Green</i>, on the road from Barnet Gate to Shenley, is nearly 2
+miles E. from Elstree Station, M.R.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo020" name="illo020"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo020.jpg"
+      alt="THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON"
+      title="THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON"
+      height="412" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></a>[Pg&nbsp;172]</span>ROYSTON, an ancient market town on the Icknield Way at its junction
+with Ermine Street, was until recently partly in Cambs. It is supposed
+to owe its name to a Dame Roesia who placed a cross here on the highway,
+near which spot a monastery of Black Canons was founded by Eustace de
+Mere and others in the reign of Henry II. Early in the reign of Henry
+IV. the town was almost destroyed by fire. Royston enjoyed several
+market privileges in the good old days, and it is recorded that early in
+the fifteenth century wheat was so plentiful that it was sold in Royston
+market for 12d. a quarter.</p>
+
+<p>The church was erected close to the monastery late in the thirteenth
+century, and at the Dissolution was constituted the parish church.
+Thirty years ago it was restored, and more recently enlarged, and is now
+an imposing structure of flint and rubble, E.E. in style. The tower (W.)
+is embattled and carries four pinnacles. The fine lancet windows in the
+chancel were discovered during restoration in 1872, as were also the
+fragments of the old screen, since pieced together to form the present
+pulpit and reading desk. The alabaster effigy in the chancel, of a
+knight in armour, is believed to represent one of the Scales family.
+There are several old brasses: (1) to William Taberam, Rector of
+Therfield (d. 1432), this was large, but only the upper part now
+remains; (2) to a civilian and his wife (<i>circa</i> 1500); (3) to Father
+William Chamber, who <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></a>[Pg&nbsp;173]</span>founded an annual sermon to be preached in the
+church on Rogation Mondays (d. 1546). There are some good modern windows
+of stained glass.</p>
+
+<p>James I., who had been entertained at Royston by Robert Chester during
+his progress from Scotland to London, built a lodge near Royston Heath,
+to which both he and Charles I. occasionally resorted, the latter being
+brought here as prisoner in 1647. Some cottages still standing on the
+outskirts of the Heath are said to have been used for stables when James
+I. used to hunt in the neighbourhood, and by inquiring for the &ldquo;Old
+Palace&rdquo; visitors will be shown what little remains of his Majesty&rsquo;s
+hunting lodge. The Heath is now famous for its fine golf links.</p>
+
+<p>Beneath the old boundary between the two counties, and close to the Post
+Office, is the famous <i>Royston Cave</i>, which visitors should not fail to
+see. It was accidentally discovered in 1742 by some men who were digging
+a hole in the market-place, and is now entered by a specially
+constructed passage under the street. It was visited by Louis XVIII.
+Hewn out of the solid chalk, its greatest height is about 25 ft., its
+diameter about 17 ft. It contains curious, and in some cases uncouth
+figures and coloured reliefs of saints, kings, queens, etc., of all
+sizes and ages, and some crucifixes. The late Joseph Beldam, F.S.A., was
+of opinion that the cave dates from pre-Christian times, that it became
+in turn a Roman sepulchre and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></a>[Pg&nbsp;174]</span>an oratory, and that it was closed during
+the Reformation.</p>
+
+<p>There are still the traces of several tumuli in the neighbourhood, and
+ancient coins, etc., have been found, but the evidences of any Roman
+occupation are not very convincing.</p>
+
+<p>Royston is a somewhat quaint town, with some narrow byways and
+odd-looking houses, amongst which the Old Plough Inn is not the least
+noticeable.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rush Green</i> (1 mile S. from Ware) is a small hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rushden</i>, formerly Risendene and Risden (5 miles S.E. from Baldock),
+has a stuccoed brick church, Dec. and Perp. Chauncy saw in it, &ldquo;no
+Inscription, Monument, or other Remark,&rdquo; but in 1754 the monument of Sir
+Adolphus Meetkerke, Kt., was brought here from St. Botolph&rsquo;s,
+Aldersgate. Meetkerke was Ambassador from Flanders to the Court of Queen
+Elizabeth, and the author of several volumes. Note the canopy in nave,
+thought to have covered a statue of the Virgin. In the reign of Henry
+II. the patronage of the church was given by William Basset, Sheriff of
+Leicestershire, to the Canons and Church of St. Peter&rsquo;s at Dunstable.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rustling Green</i> is midway between Knebworth and St. Paul&rsquo;s Walden
+Parks. The district is prettily diversified by small woods. By the
+shortest way through the park Knebworth Station is about 3&frac12; miles E.</p>
+
+<p><a name="RyeHouse" id="RyeHouse"></a><span class="smcap">The Rye House</span>, on the W. bank of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175"></a>[Pg&nbsp;175]</span>river Lea, is a famous
+resort of fishermen, excursionists and folk wishing to see the Great Bed
+of Ware, brought here from Ware in 1869. The bed is a huge construction
+of solid oak, quaintly carved, and large enough to hold twelve adults,
+as is proved by a story which can readily be found by the curious, but
+which is unfit for repetition in these pages. It is alluded to by
+Shakespeare, Byron and other writers. The present Rye House is modern,
+but attached to it are some remains of the old House, some account of
+which must be given here.</p>
+
+<p>In his description of the &ldquo;Mannor of the Rye&rdquo; Chauncy says, &ldquo;King Henry
+VI. granted licence to Andrew Ogard and others, that they might impark
+the scite of the Mannor of Rye, otherwise called the Isle of Rye in
+Stansted Abbot, fifty Acres of Land, eleven Acres of Meadow, eight Acres
+of Pasture and Sixteen Acres of Wood, erect a Castle there with Lime and
+Stone, make Battlements and Loopholes &amp;c.&rdquo;<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnnum">[6]</a> The castle built by Ogard
+passed into the hands of the Baesh family; it was doubtless in part
+rebuilt at different times, for what remains of it is of brick. In
+course of time it became the property of Lieut., afterwards Col.,
+Rumbold, known as &ldquo;Hannibal&rdquo; among his associates, who had been a
+private in Fairfax&rsquo;s famous regiment of 1648. This man was the
+originator of the <i>Rye House Plot</i>.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176"></a>[Pg&nbsp;176]</span>The story of that plot may be recapitulated in few words. In the spring
+of 1683 Charles II. and James Duke of York were at Newmarket. Rumbold
+and some of his ultra-Republican friends heard that the Royal party
+would return to London by way of Rye House. They met together and
+arranged to secrete some men in the house, to create a disturbance as
+the King passed and to kill him in the confusion which would follow. The
+King escaped&mdash;probably, as most writers agree, because he left Newmarket
+earlier than was expected. The plot soon became known, the Rye House was
+searched and many persons were charged with High Treason. Two
+illustrious men became implicated, through the allegations of Howard of
+Escrick and others&mdash;Algernon Sidney and Lord Russell. Both were
+certainly innocent, but both were beheaded, and Russell was buried at
+Chenies in Bucks (almost on the Herts border). Rumbold fled to Holland,
+joined the expedition which Argyle headed in Scotland, and was hanged in
+Edinburgh in 1685. Visitors to the neighbourhood of the Rye House will
+perhaps be assured that Rumbold suffered on a tree near by, but such was
+not the case.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Sacombe" id="Sacombe"></a><span class="smcap">Sacombe</span> (4 miles N.W. from Ware) lies scattered over a
+considerable district. It was long ago called Suevecamp (<i>i.e.</i>,
+Suaviscampus) because of its pleasant situation. The small Dec. church
+stands on the hill, at the N. end of the Park; it is of ancient
+foundation, but <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></a>[Pg&nbsp;177]</span>was entirely restored about fifty years ago. There are
+two sedilia and a piscina in the chancel, and two brasses, to John
+Dodyngton and Eleanor his wife (d. 1544 and 1550 respectively). Sacombe
+Park is beautifully timbered; the present house of red brick dates from
+about 1800.</p>
+
+<p><a name="StAlbans" id="StAlbans"></a>ST. ALBANS is one of the most ancient and interesting places in England;
+it became a city on the foundation of the Bishopric of St. Albans in
+1877. It may be approached by road from London, (1) by way of Barnet and
+London Colney, the G.N.R. Station (branch from Hatfield) being passed on
+the left nearly a mile from the old clock tower and market-place; (2) by
+way of Edgware, Elstree and Radlett, by which route, after passing St.
+Stephens, the L.&amp;N.W.R. Station (branch from Watford) is on the right
+and the steep Holywell Hill leading to High Street is straight before.
+The river Ver skirts the entire S. limits of the city itself; the field
+that slopes upwards from the silk mill, in a N. direction, is called the
+Abbey Orchard, and on the summit of the slope stands the great Abbey of
+St. Alban.</p>
+
+<p>As the ancient Roman city&mdash;the <i>Verulamium</i> of Antoninus&mdash;stood some
+distance to the W., a brief account of it will be found under the
+heading Verulam. The history of St. Albans itself commences with the
+death of Alban, the proto-martyr of Britain, who was flogged with rods
+and beheaded by the Romans for having sheltered the priest Amphibalus,
+connived at <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></a>[Pg&nbsp;178]</span>his escape, and adopted his faith (<i>circa</i> 285-305; the
+date is very uncertain). During the fifth century the Saxons captured
+and destroyed Verulam and built a new town on the hill some distance E.
+This they named <i>Watlingceaster</i> (the town on Watling Street), but when
+(793) Offa built a monastery to the memory of Alban on Holmhurst Hill,
+the traditionary site of the martyrdom, the town itself became known as
+St. Albans. Gildas, Bede and other old authorities agree that an earlier
+church stood on this spot; they state, indeed, that it was built soon
+after the death of St. Alban.</p>
+
+<p>The plan of the city is, like the Abbey, cruciform, four old high-roads
+meeting together near the Clock Tower, N.W. from Dunstable, S.W. from
+Watford, S.E. from London, N.E. from Wheathampstead. The latter unites
+with the road from Harpenden and Luton at The Cricketers, &frac14; mile N.W.
+from St. Peter&rsquo;s Church. The four roads, on entering the city, are
+respectively called Verulam Road, Holywell Hill, London Road and St.
+Peter&rsquo;s Street; one of the oldest thoroughfares, however, is that called
+Fishpool Street, which runs from near the W. end of the Abbey to the
+flour mill on the Ver. Quite recently several of the oldest houses in
+the neighbourhood were in this street; but some have now been pulled
+down.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo021" name="illo021"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo021.jpg"
+      alt="THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBAN'S"
+      title="THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBAN'S"
+      height="365" width="600"/>
+   <p class="caption">THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBAN&rsquo;S<br />
+<i>The oldest Inn in England</i></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>We will enter the city from the direction of St. Stephens. Crossing the
+bridge over the Ver, we turn left by the Duke of Marlborough, pass
+through the gate near the river <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a>[Pg&nbsp;179]</span>side and keeping the cress-beds on
+the left reach the silk mill. Turning right we ascend the hill W. of the
+Abbey orchard, obtaining meanwhile a fine view of the stately W. front
+of the Abbey itself, as reconstructed by Lord Grimthorpe. Our way into
+the city lies through the old, partially ivy-clad <i>Gate House</i>, a relic
+of the Benedictine Monastery; note the Perp. pointed arch and vaulted
+roof. This was originally the entrance to the Abbey court, the &ldquo;Magna
+Porta&rdquo; of the old monastic days. There was a former structure on or near
+the same spot; this was blown down and the present building dates from
+the rule of Thomas de la Mere, thirtieth abbot (1349-96). Used as a jail
+some centuries ago, it has long been known as St. Alban&rsquo;s <i>Grammar
+School</i>; the battlemented house S.W. of the archway is the residence of
+the head master. The claims of this school to be <i>the oldest in England</i>
+cannot be adequately discussed here. Suffice it to say that documents
+attesting its existence date from Abbot Richard de Albini (1097-1119);
+his successor, Geoffrey de Gorham, came from Normandy to become its
+master. Matthew Paris records that the school was afterwards kept by a
+nephew of Abbot Warine (or Warren) de Cambridge, and had at that time
+more scholars than any school in England. Passing through the arch we
+notice on the left a small, triangular burial ground. The spot is called
+Romeland. Here George Tankerville was burnt by order of Bishop Bonner,
+on 26th August, 1556.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a>[Pg&nbsp;180]</span>Passing straight forward into Spicer Street the <i>Congregational
+Chapel</i>, founded in 1797, is on the right. A little farther on is
+College Street; on the left side stands the house in which Cowper was
+placed under the charge of Dr. Cotton when his insanity was most
+pronounced. To reach the old <i>Clock Tower</i> we turn right into Verulam
+Street and left into High Street. The Tower stands at the S. end of the
+Market Place; note the quaint, narrow thoroughfare at its W. side,
+called French Row. The Tower is Perp., of flint and dressed stone,
+battlemented, and surmounted by a small spire; the basement has long
+been utilised as a saddler&rsquo;s shop. It dates from the fifteenth
+century,<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnnum">[7]</a> but was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1864. In it hangs
+the great bell &ldquo;Gabriel&rdquo; cast early in the reign of Edward III.; it is
+now used for striking the hour and formerly tolled the curfew. In the
+foreground, where the drinking fountain now stands, was &ldquo;Eleanor&rsquo;s
+Cross,&rdquo; erected, like the cross at Waltham (<i><a href="#WalthamCross">q.v.</a></i>), by Edward I. in
+memory of his Queen. It was destroyed about 1700. The old market-place,
+so quaint even fifty years ago, is now largely occupied by modern shops;
+partly by reason of a fire which occurred many years back.</p>
+
+<p>Continuing our way up the market-place we pass the <i>Town Hall</i> or <i>Court
+House</i> on the right, an Italian structure dating from 1826, and the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181"></a>[Pg&nbsp;181]</span>broad St. Peter&rsquo;s Street opens before us, leading to the old church
+dedicated to that saint. The church is one of three built by Abbot
+Ulsinus in Saxon times; the date of their foundation is very uncertain,
+but we may bear in mind that the first abbot, Willegod, ruled at the
+close of the eighth century, that Ulsinus was the sixth abbot, and that
+six others ruled during Pre-Norman times. St. Peter&rsquo;s Church, largely
+restored by Lord Grimthorpe, is therefore of great antiquity as a
+foundation; the present structure is chiefly late Perp. with a lofty E.
+tower carrying four pinnacles, the latter an addition by the restorer.
+The position of the tower (elsewhere almost invariably W.) is explained
+by the fact that the old church was cruciform, and that when, at the
+beginning of last century, the extreme E. of the chancel and the
+transepts were found much dilapidated they were pulled down, the old
+tower thereby losing its central position. Note the E. Perp. arches
+separating nave and aisles; the pulpit a good example of Belgian
+carving, and the old stained glass in windows of N. aisle; the stained
+glass in other windows is modern. Concerning the brass to Roger
+Pemberton, Sheriff of Herts (d. 13th November, 1627), a story is told.
+If the visitor passes out of the churchyard by the N.W. gate he will be
+<i>vis-&agrave;-vis</i> to the almshouses founded in 1627 on the W. side of what was
+then &ldquo;St. Peter&rsquo;s Street, Bowgate&rdquo;. Pemberton is said to have been
+shooting in the woods, to have shot a widow by accident, and to have
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182"></a>[Pg&nbsp;182]</span>founded these almshouses for widows, and endowed them with &pound;30 per
+annum for ever as a salve to his conscience. There is an iron arrow over
+the old brick gateway before the houses, which seems to countenance the
+story. There were formerly many other brasses in the church, but the
+inscriptions on some of them must now be sought in the county histories.
+A few, however, remain, <i>e.g.</i>, one with shield of arms to Mrs.
+Elizabeth Wyndham (d. 1735). In the N. aisle is the tomb of Edward
+Strong (d. 1723), &ldquo;Master Mason&rdquo; of St. Paul&rsquo;s Cathedral; in the
+churchyard lies Dr. Nathaniel Cotton, the friend of Cowper (see page
+<a href="#Page_180">180</a>) (d. 1788). Among those who fell in the battles of St. Albans (of
+which more will be said presently) and were buried in this church or
+graveyard were (1) Sir Bertin Entwysel, Kt., Baron of Brybeke in
+Normandy; (2) Ralph Babthorpe and Ralph his son, of an old Yorkshire
+family. As a matter of fact a great number of the slain were buried
+here; Chauncy says &ldquo;this Church and Churchyard was filled with the
+Bodies of those that were slain in the two battles fought in this town&rdquo;.</p>
+
+<p>The two other churches founded by Abbot Ulsinus are those of St. Stephen
+and St. Michael.</p>
+
+<p><i>St. Stephen&rsquo;s Church</i> stands &frac34; mile S.W. from the Clock Tower, at the
+junction of the roads from Edgware and Watford. It was restored by Sir
+Gilbert Scott in 1861-62; but still retains some ancient features;
+<i>e.g.</i>, the late <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></a>[Pg&nbsp;183]</span>Norman arch in N. wall, formerly in part separating
+the nave from the N. aisle (now absent), and two Norman windows, widely
+splayed, in W. wall. Note (1) brass eagle-lectern, believed to have been
+formerly in the Abbey at Holyrood; (2) double piscina in S. aisle; (3)
+fifteenth century font. The oldest brass, much worn, is in the S.
+chapel; it is to the memory of William Robins, Clerk of the Signet to
+Edward IV., (d. 1482) and Katherine his wife.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo022" name="illo022"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo022.png"
+      alt="LORD BACON'S MONUMENT"
+      title="LORD BACON'S MONUMENT"
+      height="600" width="340"/>
+   <p class="caption">LORD BACON&rsquo;S MONUMENT</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>St. Michael&rsquo;s Church</i>, about &frac34; mile W. from the Clock Tower, stands on
+gently rising ground close to the carriage road to Gorhambury. It is
+believed to occupy, approximately, the centre of what was the ancient
+city of Verulam (<i><a href="#Verulam">q.v.</a></i>) and to mark the site of a Roman temple. It has
+been restored, and the tower rebuilt, by Lord Grimthorpe; the work was
+only completed two or three years ago. Flint and tiles taken from the
+surrounding ruins by the builders still exist in the walls; but repeated
+restorations have almost obliterated the evidences of its antiquity.
+There are brasses (1) to Thomas Wolvey, an Esquire to Richard II. (d.
+1430); (2) to &ldquo;John Pecok et Maud sa femme&rdquo; (<i>circa</i> 1340-50); but the
+monument of paramount interest is that in the recess N. of the chancel,
+to Francis Bacon, Baron Verulam and Viscount St. Albans (d. 9th April,
+1626). The great philosopher and Lord Chancellor is represented as
+sitting in a tall chair, leaning his head upon his left hand; a Jacobean
+ruff is round his neck and a wide <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></a>[Pg&nbsp;184]</span>hat upon his head; the sculptor
+(unknown) has succeeded admirably in imparting an air of abstraction to
+the countenance. Of Bacon&rsquo;s house at <i>Gorhambury</i>, 1&frac12; mile farther W.,
+little remains except some fragments of wall and tower, with <a name="cm12" id="cm12"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr12"
+title="Original reads 'projectin gentrance'">projecting
+entrance</a> porch. In the yet remaining spandrels of the arches are
+medallions of Roman Emperors; over the porch are the arms of Elizabeth.
+The present mansion, a little E. from the ruins, was commenced in 1778
+by James third Viscount Grimston; it has been considerably altered, but
+retains the grand N. portico; the pediment, supported by ten Corinthian
+columns, reaches to the roof. The hall is very large, and contains
+portraits of Francis Bacon, George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, and
+other worthies. There are numerous pictures in other apartments,
+including portraits of Sir Nicholas Bacon, Thomas Wentworth, Earl of
+Stafford, Queen Elizabeth, Robert Devereux, Catherine of Braganza and
+William Pitt.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo023" name="illo023"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo023.png"
+      alt="RUINS OF LORD BACON'S HOUSE"
+      title="RUINS OF LORD BACON'S HOUSE"
+      height="600" width="336"/>
+   <p class="caption">RUINS OF LORD BACON&rsquo;S HOUSE</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>There were three monastic institutions on the outskirts of the town:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>(1) The Leper Hospital of <i>St. Julian</i>, founded by Geoffrey de Gorham,
+sixteenth Abbot of St. Albans, on a spot close to St. Stephen&rsquo;s Church.
+Of this no vestige remains.</p>
+
+<p>(2) The Hospital of <i>St. Mary de Pr&eacute;</i>, for women-lepers, founded about
+fifty years after the above by Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot, on
+either side of the old Watling Street. Some of the graves in the
+churchyard attached <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></a>[Pg&nbsp;185]</span>to the hospital were visible so recently as 1827,
+and the cottages known as the &ldquo;Three Chimnies,&rdquo; originally part of the
+hospital itself, were pulled down in 1849.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnnum">[8]</a></p>
+
+
+<p>(3) <i>Sopwell Nunnery</i>, founded by Abbot Geoffrey de Gorham about 1140,
+at a spot a little S. from the Old London Road, on the river Ver. The
+masses of ivy-mantled ruins still to be seen, and usually called the
+&ldquo;ruins of Sopwell Nunnery,&rdquo; are, at least for the most part, the remains
+of the house built by Sir Richard Lee, to whom the manor was granted at
+the Dissolution.</p>
+
+<p>ST. ALBANS ABBEY.&mdash;The Abbey has been so repeatedly altered and restored
+that it may be said to illustrate every style of ecclesiastical
+architecture from Norman to the present time. Opinions differ widely as
+to the merits of that scheme of renovation and innovation completed
+under the direction and by the munificence of Lord Grimthorpe, and no
+attempt will be here made to criticise or extol the work of so great an
+expert. Such a description of the venerable Abbey as an architect might
+love to write would fill a volume in this series. After careful
+consideration I have decided to sketch its history in such a way as to
+show, however imperfectly, how it came to be what it is. I have been
+careful to compare many authorities and to follow the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186"></a>[Pg&nbsp;186]</span>consensus of
+testimony wherever I have found discrepancy or contradiction.</p>
+
+<p>It has already been stated that, according to Gildas, Bede and other
+authorities, a church was erected on Holmhurst Hill after the martyrdom
+of St. Alban. Concerning that church we know little more than that it
+was almost destroyed by the Saxons. In 793, or very near that date, Offa
+II., who had murdered the East Anglian King, Ethelbert, resolved to
+found a monastery, encouraged, as we learn from William of Malmesbury,
+by Charlemagne. The monastery was duly founded, for an abbot and 100
+Benedictine monks, and the little church, renovated, became the original
+abbey of the foundation. Having discovered the bones of St. Alban and
+placed them in a costly reliquary, Offa conveyed them to this church,
+intending to erect a nobler edifice for their reception; but it is
+doubtful whether the design was carried out during his lifetime. Indeed,
+we know little as to that enlarging and adornment of the church which
+must surely have been effected in the days of the early abbots, and the
+first hints of the erection of the great abbey occur in the lives of
+Ealdred and Eadmer, eighth and ninth abbots, who collected immense
+quantities of red, tile-like Roman bricks from the ruins of Verulam;
+Matthew Paris tells us that Eadmer made some progress in the actual
+rebuilding of the church. The twelfth abbot, Leofstan (d. 1066),
+enriched the building with <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></a>[Pg&nbsp;187]</span>&ldquo;certain ornaments&rdquo;; but it was the
+fourteenth abbot, Paul de Caen (1077-97), who, using the vast stores of
+material collected by his predecessors, entirely rebuilt the church on a
+scale almost commensurate with its present size.</p>
+
+<p>The rebuilding of the Abbey Church by Abbot Paul de Caen occupied eleven
+years. When completed, it was certainly one of the noblest and largest
+structures in the kingdom. The length of this cruciform Norman church
+was 426 feet. (The extreme length is now 550, due to additions presently
+mentioned.) On the E. side of either transept were two apsidal chapels,
+the one adjoining the presbytery aisle being in each case the larger of
+the two; there was also an apse at the E. end of the presbytery. A
+square, battlemented tower flanked the W. front on either side; but the
+chief glory of Abbot Paul&rsquo;s church was undoubtedly the enormous Norman
+tower of four stages, triforium, clerestory, ringing-floor and belfry,
+surmounted by parapets and flanked by angle turrets, of which such
+considerable portions yet remain. Visitors who saw the Abbey thirty
+years ago saw the E. portion of the nave, the transepts and the tower
+substantially as built by Abbot Paul de Caen. The new Abbey was
+dedicated 1115.</p>
+
+<p>Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth abbot (1119-46), placed the relics of St.
+Alban in a new shrine.</p>
+
+<p>Robert de Gorham, eighteenth abbot (1161-67), <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188"></a>[Pg&nbsp;188]</span>erected the <i>Chapter
+House</i> and <i>Locutory</i> (Abbot&rsquo;s Cloister); his successor, Symeon
+(1167-83), completed the erection and embellishment of the <i>Shrine of
+St. Alban</i>, raising its height so that it could be seen from the <i>High
+Altar</i>. During his abbacy the relics of St. Amphibalus were brought to
+St. Albans, and the shrine of that saint was eventually erected in the
+E. aisle. The <i>Chapel of St. Cuthbert</i> in the <i>Baptistery</i>, built by
+Abbot Richard de Albini (1097-1119), was also dedicated about this time.</p>
+
+<p>Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot (1183-95), placed the relics of St.
+Amphibalus in a feretry, enriching it with gold and silver
+ornamentation. He placed it behind the High Altar, near the feretry of
+St. Alban.</p>
+
+<p>John de Cella, twenty-first abbot (1195-1214), commenced to rebuild the
+W. front, notably the three fine E.E. porches now replaced by those of
+Lord Grimthorpe, but the work was completed by his successor William de
+Trumpyntone (1214-35), who added the two flanking towers. This abbot
+erected the rood screen between the nave and choir, added the octagon
+above the tower after removing the Norman turrets and parapets, and
+probably built those E.E. bays on each side of the nave which are
+nearest to the W. front. He also restored portions of the S. transept
+and S. aisle, and rebuilt <i>St. Cuthbert&rsquo;s Chapel</i> on the spot now partly
+occupied by the <i>Rood Screen</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The E. end of the Abbey next received the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></a>[Pg&nbsp;189]</span>attention of these
+architect-abbots. Commencing at the second bay E. from the tower, John
+de Hertford (1235-60) almost entirely replaced the Norman and E.E. work
+of his predecessors by work which merged into a graceful E. Dec. The
+work was carried on by his immediate successors, doubtless sadly
+hindered by the turbulent state of the times. John de Norton (1260-90)
+built the S. aisle of the <i>Retro-choir</i>, and part of the <i>Lady-chapel</i>,
+but his work was supplemented by that of John de Berkhampstead
+(1291-1302). John de Marinis (1302-8) removed the feretry and tomb of
+St. Alban to the position which it occupied until about the time of the
+Dissolution and spent 820 marks in the erection of a tomb of Purbeck
+marble. Hugh de Eversden (1308-26) built the five moulded Dec. bays of
+the S. aisle, replacing the Norman work, which had given way, and
+completed the <i>Lady-chapel</i> at the extreme E., thereby greatly
+increasing the length of the entire building. There was subsequently,
+however, for a long period, a passage between the <i>Retro-choir</i> and the
+<i>Lady-chapel</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Abbot Michael de Mentmore (1335-49) completed the restoration of the S.
+aisle and repaired the <i>Cloister</i>. His successor, Thomas de la Mere,
+paved the W. floor, and no doubt minor restorations were almost
+continually in progress during the latter half of the fourteenth
+century; but a new chapter in the story of the Abbey commenced when John
+de Wheathampsted <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></a>[Pg&nbsp;190]</span>became abbot (1420-40 and 1451-64). This celebrated
+man, during the two periods of his abbacy, hardly rested in his efforts
+to beautify the Abbey. It is stated in a Cottonian MS. that this abbot
+constructed a little chapel near the shrine of St. Alban; this was
+perhaps the <i>Watching Loft</i> (N. of <i>Saint&rsquo;s Chapel</i>) in which the keeper
+of the holy shrine and relics (Custos Feretri) spent much of his time.
+John de Wheathampsted also built the tomb of Humphrey, Duke of
+Gloucester (d. 1447), on the side of the chapel opposite the <i>Watching
+Loft</i> (a few steps lead down to the coffin); prepared his own tomb W.
+from that of the duke; built the great Perp. window over the W. porches,
+now replaced by one Dec. in design, and the nine N. windows of <i>Nave</i>
+and <i>Ante-Choir</i>; and was probably responsible for the paintings
+discovered on the choir ceiling, and for many of the embellishments of
+the <i>Lady-chapel</i>. Perhaps, however, his fame chiefly rests on the <i>High
+Altar Screen</i>, which he designed, but which was erected by the
+thirty-sixth abbot, William Wallingford (1476-84).</p>
+
+<p>There were apparently few important features added to the Abbey, and but
+little restoration effected during the rule of the last four abbots
+(1492-1539). A few brief paragraphs concerning its modern restorations
+and present appearance must now be added.</p>
+
+<p>Those modern restorations date largely from the middle of last century.
+Its condition, internally and externally, was at that time certainly
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></a>[Pg&nbsp;191]</span>discreditable to everybody concerned in its welfare. In 1856 a National
+Committee placed the matter in the hands of Sir Gilbert Scott, under
+whose direction the building was in part restored; but public funds
+presently failed and in 1879 the direction of the workers was undertaken
+by one who had at once the inclination and the funds necessary to its
+completion&mdash;Lord Grimthorpe.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Abbey</i>, from the W. porches to the E. end of the <i>Lady-chapel</i> and
+the <i>Chapel of Transfiguration</i>, measures inside 520 feet, outside 550
+feet; the entire <i>transept</i> length from N. to S., on the floor, 177
+feet; the <i>nave</i>, the longest Gothic one in the world, 292 feet &times; 75
+feet 4 inches; the <i>Lady-chapel</i>, 57 feet &times; 24 feet; the great <i>Screens</i>
+are rather less than 170 feet apart; the height of the <i>tower</i> is 144
+feet. Visitors will find some slight discrepancies as to measurements in
+the several guides which have been compiled; but the foregoing figures
+will assist them to realise the vast dimensions of the building. Its
+area is approximately 40,000 square feet. Of special interest are:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>(1) <i>The Tower</i>, which is seen to greater advantage since Sir Gilbert
+Scott removed the exterior plaster, thus exposing the wonderfully
+preserved Roman tiles with which it was faced by Abbot Paul de Caen. The
+four enormous piers upon which it rests were weakened by the ignorance
+of early restorers, who cut into them freely, and dug graves in such
+manner as to imperil their foundations. The most arduous <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></a>[Pg&nbsp;192]</span>work of Sir
+Gilbert Scott was the strengthening of these piers, effected piecemeal
+by partial reconstruction of the piers themselves and by laying a
+durable substratum of cement right down to the chalk. The fine ring of
+eight bells was rehung. Visitors will find the ascent of the spiral
+staircase long and arduous, but will be rewarded by the almost
+unrivalled view from between the merlons on its summit.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo024" name="illo024"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo024.png"
+      alt="The Shrine of St Alban"
+      title="The Shrine of St Alban"
+      height="600" width="345"/>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>(2) <i>St. Alban&rsquo;s Shrine</i> (in the Saint&rsquo;s Chapel between the Altar Screen
+and the Lady-chapel), already referred to (p. 188), disappeared about
+the time of the suppression of the monastery (1539), and all traces of
+it were lost except the fragment of Purbeck marble marking its former
+site on the chapel floor. Yet that shrine, its genuineness unquestioned,
+stands to-day on the site which it occupied centuries ago! Hundreds of
+fragments of Purbeck marble were discovered when the central arches of
+the Lady-chapel were opened by Dr. Nicholson previous to the
+restorations of Sir Gilbert Scott. Subsequently, other fragments were
+discovered and the whole collection, the importance of which was
+suspected, was pieced together with indefatigable ingenuity by the late
+John Chapple. The <i>feretry</i> itself, mentioned by Matthew Paris, which
+was supposed to contain the relic of the martyr, has not, and probably
+never will be, discovered. The vaulted niches are of clunch, but the
+rest of the shrine is of Purbeck marble. Note the beautiful tracery of
+these groined niches, the cusps of the arches and crocketted
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></a>[Pg&nbsp;193]</span>pediments, and the carvings in the tympana, representing scenes from
+the martyrdom of SS. Alban and Amphibalus.</p>
+
+<p>(3) <i>Shrine of St. Amphibalus</i> (in N. aisle of presbytery). This was
+discovered in fragments and pieced together in the same manner as that
+of St. Alban. The whole, however, is of clunch, and, unfortunately,
+incomplete. Note the fret-like sculpture round the basement, and the
+name of the saint (imperfect) in carved capitals.</p>
+
+<p>(4) <i>High Altar Screen</i>, or screen of Abbot Wallingford (restored at the
+expense of Lord Aldenham); is in point of size, as in beauty, perhaps
+unique in England. Note its resemblance to that at Winchester. It was
+much dilapidated, its many statues having been entirely destroyed at the
+time of the Reformation; but its restoration has been admirably
+executed, the figures of SS. Alban and Amphibalus being especially
+noticeable: the latter wears a <i>Celtic</i>, not a Roman tonsure. Note also
+the figures of our Lord and His apostles in alabaster, and those of
+Adrian IV., Bede, Hugh of Lincoln, St. Edmund and many others.</p>
+
+<p>(5) Chantry Tombs of <i>Abbot Ramryge</i> and <i>Abbot John Wheathampsted</i>,
+occupying respectively the last arches of N. and S. side of the
+Sanctuary. Note the fine late Perp. work of the former, and the
+Wheathampsted arms, three wheat-ears, on the latter.</p>
+
+<p>(6) <i>The Lady-chapel</i> (enter through Retro-choir). This formerly
+contained much of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194"></a>[Pg&nbsp;194]</span>finest work in the Abbey and traces of it are
+still retained, despite its repeated and entire restoration. The present
+vaulted roof of real stone replaces that of imitation stone built by
+Abbot Hugh de Eversden. In post-Reformation days it was long used as the
+Grammar School; but since the removal of the school to the Old Gate
+House (1869) the chapel has gradually been brought into its present
+state. Many of its most beautiful features&mdash;tracery, mouldings,
+statuettes, carvings, etc.&mdash;had, however, been completely destroyed by
+the boys. The marble pavement is new; the stained glass in the E. window
+was presented by the Corporation of London. Note the wonderful variety
+of carved flowers and fruits with which this chapel is embellished.</p>
+
+<p>From Grose&rsquo;s <i>Antiquities</i> (vol. viii.) I quote the following:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Mr. Robert Shrimpton, grandfather, by the mother&rsquo;s side, to Mrs.
+Shrimpton of St. Albans, was four times mayor of that town; he died
+about sixty years since, being then about 103 years of age. He lived
+when the Abbey of St. Alban flourished before the Dissolution and
+remembered most things relating to the buildings of the Abbey, the
+regimen of the house, the ceremonies of the church ... all of which he
+would often discourse in his life-time. Among other things, that in the
+Great Hall there was an ascent of fifteen steps to the abbot&rsquo;s table, to
+which the monks brought up the service in plate, and staying at every
+fifth <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195"></a>[Pg&nbsp;195]</span>step, which was a resting-place, at every of which they sung a
+short hymn. The abbot usually sat alone in the middle of the table; and
+when any nobleman or ambassador or stranger of eminent quality came
+thither they sat at his table towards the end thereof. When the monks
+had waited a while on the abbot, they sat down at two other tables,
+placed on the sides of the hall and had their service brought in by
+novices, who, when the monks had dined, sat down to their own dinner.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><i>First Battle of St. Albans.</i>&mdash;On <i>May 23rd</i>, 1455, the forces of King
+Henry VI. assembled in the neighbourhood of St. Peter&rsquo;s Street, and were
+attacked by those of the Duke of York and Warwick the Kingmaker.
+Advancing from the fields E. of the town, Warwick&rsquo;s men appear to have
+approached from Key Fields and Sopwell Lane, and, finally, having fought
+their way into Holywell Hill, to have united with those of the Duke of
+York, who had forced the town barriers farther N. The battle was
+desperately contested; the bowmen, as usual in those times, playing a
+conspicuous part; Henry VI. was wounded in the neck, Humphrey Earl of
+Stafford in the right hand, Lord Sudley and the Duke of Buckingham in
+the face&mdash;all with arrows. The wounded king took refuge in the cottage
+of a tanner; here he was made prisoner and conducted by the Duke of York
+to the Abbey. The town was at the mercy of the Yorkist soldiers during
+the latter part of the day; many houses were looted and the Abbey was
+probably spared only <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></a>[Pg&nbsp;196]</span>because the royal prisoner had been conducted
+thither. Several illustrious persons slain in this battle were buried in
+the Lady-chapel: (1) Henry Percy, second Earl of Northumberland; (2)
+Edmund Beaufort, first Duke of Somerset; (3) John, Lord Clifford. Sir
+Robert Vere, Sir William Chamberlain, Sir Richard Fortescue, Kts., and
+many squires and other gentlemen also perished.</p>
+
+<p><i>Second Battle of St. Albans.</i>&mdash;On Shrove Tuesday, 17th February, 1461,
+Queen Margaret defeated the Earl of Warwick, who retreated with
+considerable loss, the battle being mostly fought out on Bernard&rsquo;s
+Heath, N. from St. Peter&rsquo;s Church. This engagement also was stubbornly
+fought out. According to Stow and Hollinshead, the Lancastrians were
+thwarted in their efforts to pass through the town from S. to N., being
+repulsed by arrows in the Market Place, and eventually reached Bernard&rsquo;s
+Heath by a circuitous route from the W. If this is so, visitors who
+ramble down the High Street, turn right into Katherine Lane, coming out
+of Wellclose Street near St. Peter&rsquo;s Church, will probably tread in the
+footsteps of the troops of Margaret. After the fight had been decided
+the victorious Lancastrians poured back into the town, which was again
+plundered, and the Abbey also partially stripped. This was during the
+second abbacy of John Wheathampsted, and Stow records that the day after
+the battle Queen Margaret, and the King (Henry VI.) were led by the
+abbot and monks to the High Altar of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></a>[Pg&nbsp;197]</span>the Abbey, where they returned
+thanks for the victory.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">St. Margaret&rsquo;s</span>, on the river Lea, has a small church with
+several unimportant memorials. It was probably formed from one aisle of
+an older edifice.</p>
+
+<p><i>St. Margaret&rsquo;s</i> is also the name of a few cottages a little N.W. from
+Great Gaddesden, near the site of the Benedictine convent of <i>Muresley</i>,
+the refectory of which was almost intact early last century.</p>
+
+<p><a name="StPaulsWalden" id="StPaulsWalden"></a><span class="smcap">St. Paul&rsquo;s Walden</span> (4 miles S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.)
+is a large and scattered parish; much of it is very picturesque. The
+church, which was restored twenty years ago, is of several styles, but
+contains little worthy of comment. Note the tablet on the W. wall of the
+chapel to Henry Stapleford and Dorothy his wife. &ldquo;The said Henry was
+servant to Queen Elizabeth, King James and King Charles&rdquo; (d. 1631). The
+manor was formerly called first <i>Waldene</i>, then Abbot&rsquo;s Walden, being
+the property of the abbots of St. Albans. <i>St. Paul&rsquo;s Walden Bury</i>, &frac12;
+mile S.W. from the church, is the seat of Lord Strathmore. Note the fine
+avenues in the park, commanding good views of the house. The walk S. to
+Whitwell, through the steep and twisted lane and across the bridge over
+the Maran, keeping the &ldquo;bog&rdquo; and cress beds on the right, is very
+pretty.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Sandon" id="Sandon"></a><span class="smcap">Sandon</span> (3&frac12; miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R) has a flint
+church, probably late fourteenth century. Several features should be
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a>[Pg&nbsp;198]</span>noted: (1) Perp. screen (oak) between nave and chancel; (2) old stained
+glass in windows of both aisles; (3) fine Jacobean oak pulpit; (4) old
+brass, with inscription which was imperfect 200 years back, to &ldquo;Johannes
+Fitz Geoffery, Armiger&rdquo; (d. 1480); (5) piscina in each aisle; (6)
+pinnacled and crocketted arches in chancel, over triple sedilia. The
+church was partially restored in 1875. The manor of <i>Sandone</i> was owned
+by Saxon kings; Athelstan gave ten houses in the <i>vill</i> to St. Paul&rsquo;s,
+London. The Old North Road to Royston is 2 miles E.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Sandridge" id="Sandridge"></a><span class="smcap">Sandridge</span> (2&frac12; miles N.E. from St. Albans) is on the road to
+Wheathampstead, and is a thoroughly typical English village consisting,
+for the most part, of one street, with the parish church near its N.E.
+end. The parish stretches northwards to the Lea, and is very ancient;
+the <i>vill</i> was given by Egfrith, a son of Offa, to St. Alban&rsquo;s Abbey. It
+owes its name to the nature of its soil. The church, one of the most
+ancient in the county, has known much restoration, but still retains
+Norman work. It was consecrated as a chapel a few years after the
+consecration of St. Alban&rsquo;s Abbey (1115); the chancel was rebuilt by
+Abbot John Moote (<i>circa</i> 1400). The tower fell towards the end of the
+seventeenth century and the structure which took its place was pulled
+down and reconstructed in 1887. Note the old material in the apex, the
+Perp. windows in the aisles, the clerestoried Norman nave and the Norman
+font. There are N. and S. porches.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></a>[Pg&nbsp;199]</span>Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, derived his first title, Baron
+Sandridge, from this parish; the Jennings family, from which his wife
+Sarah was descended, possessed the manor for several generations.
+<i>Sandridge Bury</i>, N.W. from the village, is beautifully situated.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Sarratt" id="Sarratt"></a><span class="smcap">Sarratt</span> (1&frac12; mile N. from Chorley Wood Station, Met. Extension)
+is near the river Chess, on the Bucks border. The church is late Norman
+and is remarkable for the saddle-back roof of its tower, running N. and
+S., the only tower roof of its kind in Herts. The building is cruciform,
+of flint, dressed with Totternhoe and Caen stone, and has a square
+ambry, a very old piscina, and a double sedilia; the latter is E.E.
+Richard Baxter is said to have preached from the Jacobean pulpit. There
+are a few old memorials. The church is prettily situated, and a
+picturesque walk may be taken N.W. to Sarratt Bottom, thence N.E. to</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Sarratt Green</span>, which during the last two or three centuries has
+gradually outgrown Sarratt. Note the many fine old cottages on either
+side of the village green. Sarratt owes its name to Syret, a Saxon.</p>
+
+<p>SAWBRIDGEWORTH (formerly Sabysford, Sabridgeworth, Saybrichesworth and
+now often called Sapsworth) lies at the S.E. extremity of the county, 4
+miles S. from Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford. The district is not very diversified,
+but is open and pleasant. The history of the several old manor houses in
+the neighbourhood would fill a large volume; those of <i>Hyde Hall</i> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></a>[Pg&nbsp;200]</span>(E.)
+and <i>Pishiobury</i> (S.) are engraved in Chauncy; the present mansion in
+<a name="cm13" id="cm13"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr13"
+title="Original reads 'Pishobury'">Pishiobury</a> Park was built by Wyatt, and has a fine adjoining rosery.
+The church stands between the town and the station (G.E.R.); it has a
+good Perp. screen between the clerestoried Dec. nave and the chancel,
+and a large canopied piscina in the N. aisle. The brasses are numerous:
+note (1) to Sir John Leventhorpe (d. 1433) and Katherine his wife (d.
+1431); the former was an executor to King Henry V.; (2) to several other
+members of the Leventhorpe family, too numerous to mention; (3) to
+Calpredus Jocelin (d. 147-), and his wives Katherine and Joan; (4)
+inscription on brass, which was long ago transcribed as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;Of your Charite<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sey a Pater Nostre and an Ave<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For the Sowl of William Chaunce<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">On whose Sowl Jesu have Mercy&rdquo;.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Several monuments and brasses are to the memory of persons buried
+elsewhere. Note the marble altar-tomb in chancel to John Jocelin or
+Jocelyn (d. 1525) and Philippa his wife.</p>
+
+<p><i>Shafton End</i> and <i>Shafton-Hoe</i> lie a little E. from the Cambridge Road,
+on the Essex border, about 4 miles S.E. from Royston.</p>
+
+<p><i>Shaw Green</i> is 4 miles S.E. from Baldock, near <i>Julians Park</i>.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Sheephall" id="Sheephall"></a><span class="smcap">Sheephall</span> (2 miles N.N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a
+little E. from the Great <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></a>[Pg&nbsp;201]</span>North Road. It is a small village. The church,
+E.E., is approached through a good lich-gate, and contains many
+memorials, including two sixteenth-century brasses to members of the
+Nodes family, one of which was Sergeant of the Buckhounds to Henry
+VIII., Edward VI., Mary and Elizabeth (d. 1564).</p>
+
+<p><a name="Shenley" id="Shenley"></a><span class="smcap">Shenley</span> (2 miles E. from Radlett Station, M.R.) is of interest
+to many for its fine old &ldquo;lock-up,&rdquo; or cage, in the centre of the
+village. We are on high ground here, and the tower of St. Alban&rsquo;s Abbey
+is well seen above the trees to the N.W. The village is scattered along
+several converging roads, and the surrounding country is undulating and
+beautifully wooded. Turn down the lane opposite the Black Lion to reach
+the old church of St. Botolph, 1 mile N.N.W. from the cage. Note the
+venerable yews, and the quaint old grave-boards in the graveyard; also
+the altar-tomb to Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of Wren, and the architect
+of St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard Street (d. at Shenley, 1736). The church
+was partly rebuilt in the middle of the eighteenth century, when the
+tower was demolished and a structure of timber, with quadrangular tiled
+roof, eventually erected in its stead. This has disappeared, and the
+&ldquo;old parish church&rdquo; is now an oblong building of flints, chalk-faced,
+with tiled roof. <i>Porters</i>, in the park, a little W., was the residence
+of Admiral Lord Howe. <i>Salisbury Hall</i>, a gabled manor house with
+massive chimneys, surrounded by a moat, is Jacobean, and stands <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></a>[Pg&nbsp;202]</span>on the
+spot occupied successively by the older houses of the Montacutes, and of
+Sir John Cutts, Treasurer and Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. Eugene
+Aram visited the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sleap&rsquo;s Hyde</i> (&frac12; mile S.E. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+in the parish of Colney Heath.</p>
+
+<p><i>Smug Oak</i>, a few cottages, lies on the E. confines of Bricket Wood, &frac12;
+mile N.E. from that station, L.&amp;N.W.R.</p>
+
+<p><i>Smyth&rsquo;s End</i> adjoins Barley on the S. (<i><a href="#Barley">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><i>Solesbridge Lane</i>, on the river Chess, is close to Chorley Wood.</p>
+
+<p><i>Southend</i> and <i>Southend Green</i> are hamlets, (1) adjoining Stevenage on
+the S., (2) &frac12; mile E. from Rushden.</p>
+
+<p><i>Spellbrook</i> is a hamlet nearly midway between Sawbridgeworth and
+Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stanborough</i>, on the Hatfield-Welwyn road, is midway between Hatfield
+and Brocket Hall Parks. The road which branches N.W. from the hamlet
+leads to the modern church at Lemsford (<i><a href="#Lemsford">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><a name="Standon" id="Standon"></a><span class="smcap">Standon</span> has several claims to notice. It is a large village, 1
+mile E. from the Old North Road. A little W., and on the other side of
+the railway, is the mansion which occupies the site of <i>Standon
+Lordship</i>, a fine old manor house, of which hardly a vestige remains. It
+was long owned by the Sadleir family, most illustrious of whom was Sir
+Ralph Sadleir (d. 1587), who fought at Pinkie. (See below.)</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></a>[Pg&nbsp;203]</span>The church, largely Dec., still retains some Saxon foundations, and has
+singular features worthy of comment. The embattled tower is separate
+from the main structure, standing on the <i>S. side of the chancel</i>; the
+chancel is raised much higher than the nave, from which it is approached
+by a flight of steps; note the hagioscope on either side of the chancel
+arch. Within the chancel, on the S. side, stands the fine monument to
+Sir Ralph Sadleir, consisting of altar-tomb and marble effigy in armour,
+recumbent beneath a canopy supported by Corinthian pillars; note the
+relieved figures of his sons and daughters on the lower part of the
+tomb, also, suspended above, two helmets and other relics. The standard
+pole captured at Pinkie rests beside the effigy. There are also several
+old brasses. Close to the village, at Old Hall Green, are the Roman
+Catholic College, Chapel and Cemetery; the college was founded at
+Twyford, Hants, late in the seventeenth century, from whence it was
+removed, first to Standon Lordship, and then (1769) to Old Hall. The
+library is large and valuable.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Stanstead Abbots</span> may be easily reached from St. Margaret&rsquo;s
+Station, G.E.R., &frac12; mile W. It was a place of considerable trade at the
+time of the Conquest. The old flint church is E.E., with a chapel on the
+N. side, built by Edward Baesh&mdash;whose monument it contains&mdash;in 1577. He
+was lord of the manor of Stanstead Abbots and &ldquo;General Surveyor of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></a>[Pg&nbsp;204]</span>Victuals for the Navy Royal and Marine affairs within the Realms of
+England and Ireland&rdquo; (d. 1587). He married Jane, a daughter of Sir Ralph
+Sadleir. (See <a href="#Standon">Standon</a>.) The six Baesh Almshouses were built and endowed
+by his son, Sir Edward Baesh. Several brasses, some mutilated, are in
+the church, notably one near the altar-rails to William Saraye or
+Saxaye, late of &ldquo;Grais In&rdquo; (d. 1581). <i>Stansteadbury</i>, a huge gabled
+mansion, largely rebuilt, stands in extensive grounds, and was the home
+of the Baeshs and of their successors, the Feildes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stapleford</i>, a village on the river Beane, is 3 miles N.N.W. from
+Hertford. The church is Perp. with N. porch; it was enlarged nearly
+fifty years ago, when the present tower was added.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Stevenage" id="Stevenage"></a>STEVENAGE, a town on the Great North Road, has shifted from its original
+position. It once stood farther N.E. and close to the church; but after
+a terrible fire which destroyed a large proportion of its houses the
+village was gradually rebuilt more directly on the famous old coaching
+road. The first paper mill in England is said to have been built in this
+parish. Several of its inns were standing when the regular coaches were
+on the road.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo025" name="illo025"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo025.png"
+      alt="STEVENAGE CHURCH"
+      title="STEVENAGE CHURCH"
+      height="600" width="344"/>
+   <p class="caption">STEVENAGE CHURCH</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The old Church of St. Nicholas, &frac34; mile N.E., is reached through an
+avenue of limes and chestnuts, headed by a new lich-gate. It is largely
+E.E. Note the octagonal pillars and pointed arches of the nave and the
+two small chapels attached to the chancel. The font at the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205"></a>[Pg&nbsp;205]</span>W. end is
+under an Early Norman arch. There are several modern windows of stained
+glass, and a good brass, early sixteenth century, in the chancel. The
+church at the S. end of the town was designed by Sir A. W. Blomfield
+about sixty years back, but has since been much enlarged. Half a mile
+farther S. on the main road are six almost equidistant mounds, thought
+to be of Danish origin.</p>
+
+<p>At the old Castle Inn, E. side of High Street, great numbers of persons
+have been shown on the rafters in a barn the coffin of Henry Trigg,
+whose will was proved in 1724; one of its provisions was that his body
+should not be buried, but disposed of in that way. Little more than a
+mile N.W. from the station, at Redcoats Green, stood, until 1893,
+&ldquo;Elmwood House,&rdquo; the home of the Hermit of Hertfordshire. This man,
+James Lucas, was descended from a good family, but for reasons never
+satisfactorily explained he lived alone, and in a most filthy condition,
+from October, 1849, to April, 1874. A concise and reliable account of
+this peculiar man is issued by Messrs. Paternoster and Hales of Hitchin.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Stocking Pelham</span>, on the Essex border (5&frac12; miles N.E. from
+Braughing Station, G.E.R.), has an E.E. church dating from early
+fourteenth century; it has no tower. The chancel was restored in 1864.
+The manor is very ancient, and was held by Simon de Furneaux in the
+reign of Edward I., but the village now shows little of interest.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></a>[Pg&nbsp;206]</span><i>Swangles</i> (2&frac14; miles N.E. from Ware) is a small hamlet a little S. from
+the river Rib.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Minsden" id="Minsden"></a><i>Symonds Green</i> (&frac34; mile S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+between the Great North Road and the ruins of Minsden Chapel.</p>
+
+<p><i>Symonds Hyde</i> Farm and Wood are in a pleasant district, very
+diversified, a little S.W. from Brocket Hall Park. Smallford and
+Hatfield Station (G.N.R.) are from 2 to 3 miles S. and S.W.
+respectively.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tea Green</i>, a hamlet near the Beds border, lies between Breachwood
+Green and Putteridge Bury.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tednambury</i> and <i>Tednam Mill</i> are on the river Stort and right on the
+Essex border. Sawbridgeworth Station (G.E.R.) is 1 mile S.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Tewin" id="Tewin"></a><span class="smcap">Tewin</span> (about 2 miles S.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) is most
+charmingly situated on high ground above the river Maran. The village is
+divided into the Upper and Lower Green; the church, &frac14; mile from the
+latter, stands on a hill that slopes steeply to the river. Note the
+altar-tomb in churchyard to Lady Anne Grimston (d. 1710). The tomb is
+forced asunder by ash and sycamore trees growing together, a
+circumstance popularly attributed to the sceptical opinions of Lady
+Anne, who is said to have denied the doctrine of immortality, and to
+have expressed the wish that such a phenomenon should happen if the
+doctrine were indeed true. The church, which looks very old, is of
+flint, brick and rubble, with a large <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207"></a>[Pg&nbsp;207]</span>diamond-faced clock on one side
+of the tower. In the S. porch (entrance blocked up) is the marble
+monument to Sir Joseph Sabine (d. 1739); who fought under Marlborough.
+Note the pyramid, 15 feet high, and the recumbent effigy, dressed as a
+Roman soldier. There is also in the S. aisle a good brass to one Thomas
+Pygott (d. 1610), and a slab with an imperfect Lombardic inscription to
+Walter de Louthe. <i>Tewin Water</i>, in the park, N.W., is prettily
+surrounded by trees. Beautiful walks may be taken in almost any
+direction, especially in the trend of the river Maran towards Digswell
+and Welwyn.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tharbes End</i> is 1&frac12; mile N.W. from Sawbridgeworth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Theobald&rsquo;s Park.</span> (See <a href="#WalthamCross">Waltham Cross</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><a name="Therfield" id="Therfield"></a><span class="smcap">Therfield</span> (3 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) was,
+according to Dugdale&rsquo;s <i>Monasticon Anglicanum</i>, given to the church of
+Ramsey by Etheric, Bishop of Sherbourne, about 980, and Chauncy
+&ldquo;guesses&rdquo; that an abbot of Ramsey built Therfield church. The present
+church is a modern Dec. structure, a little W. from the centre of the
+scattered village. The <i>Icknield Way</i> skirts the parish on the N. and
+many Roman relics have been discovered in the neighbourhood. There are
+also several tumuli in the parish, which lies on high, chalky soil.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Thorley" id="Thorley"></a><span class="smcap">Thorley</span> (2 miles S.W. from Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford) can show a good
+Norman doorway on the S. side of the little church; note the dog-tooth
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208"></a>[Pg&nbsp;208]</span>moulding and twisted nook-shafts. The remainder of the building is
+largely E.E.; there is a piscina in the chancel and&mdash;at the W.
+entrance&mdash;a niche for a holy water basin. The font, as at Bishop&rsquo;s
+Stortford, was a modern discovery. Thorley Wash and Thorley Street are
+between the church and the G.E.R.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Throcking" id="Throcking"></a><span class="smcap">Throcking</span> (2 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.)
+stands on a hill. The church is E.E. and Dec., except the upper part of
+the tower, of brick, added in 1660. The monuments include one by
+Nollekens and one by Rysbrack, to members of the Elwes family, of whose
+manor house there are still some traces adjacent to the <i>Hall Farm</i>. The
+walk N.W. to Baldock, by way of Julians Park (7 to 8 miles), leads
+across open, breezy country.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Thundridge" id="Thundridge"></a><span class="smcap">Thundridge</span> and <span class="smcap">Wade&rsquo;s Mill</span> are on the Old North Road,
+about 2 miles N. from Ware. The river Rib crosses the road at Wade&rsquo;s
+Mill. The present parish church, E.E. in style, was built about seventy
+years ago, close to the bridge over the Rib; the tower of the old
+church; &ldquo;Little St. Mary&rsquo;s,&rdquo; with a Norman arch stands in the lower
+meadows &frac12; mile E. On the W. side of the Old North Road, close to Wade&rsquo;s
+Mill, a low obelisk marks the spot where Thomas Clarkson resolved to
+give his life to the cause of the abolition of slavery.</p>
+
+<p><i>Titmore Green</i> is 1&frac12; mile N.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Tittenhanger" id="Tittenhanger"></a><i>Tittenhanger.</i> (See <a href="#LondonColney">London Colney</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Todd&rsquo;s Green</i> adjoins Titmore Green.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209"></a>[Pg&nbsp;209]</span><i>Tonwell</i>, on the main road from Ware or Stevenage, is a hamlet near
+the river Rib. It has a modern chapel-of-ease. Ware is 2&frac12; miles S.E.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Totteridge" id="Totteridge"></a><span class="smcap">Totteridge</span>, on the Middlesex border, is 1 mile W. from the
+Station (G.N.R.). Richard Baxter lived here for a short time. The
+neighbourhood is well wooded and very pleasing to the eye. The church,
+on the hill-top, dates only from 1790; but the site was occupied by an
+earlier structure. The memorials are of no historic interest; but near
+the enormous yew tree in the churchyard stands the tomb of the first
+Lord Cottenham (d. 1851). Near by, too, lies Sir Lucas Pepys, physician
+to George III. (d. 1830). <i>Totteridge Park</i>, W. from the village, was
+the residence of Baron Bunsen, and of the above-mentioned Lord
+Cottenham; the large, plain structure in which they lived, recently in
+part rebuilt, was erected about a century ago, taking the place of the
+fine old manor house, for some generations the home of the Lee family.
+At <i>Copped Hall</i>, near the church, the late Cardinal Manning was born in
+1808.</p>
+
+<p>TRING is the most westerly place of any importance in Herts. The station
+(L.&amp;N.W.R.) is nearly 2 miles E. from the town, which is sheltered on
+the N.W. by the chalk hills, a fresh spur of which crops out 3 mile N.E.
+at Aldbury (<i><a href="#Aldbury">q.v.</a></i>). The church (Perp.) stands near the centre of the
+town and is fortunate in having been restored under the direction of Mr.
+Bodley in 1882. It is an <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210"></a>[Pg&nbsp;210]</span>embattled, flint structure; the tower has a
+corner turret and is, like that at Hitchin, unusually massive. Note (1)
+the clustered columns of the nave, (2) the quaint corbels, (3) the
+large, imposing monument to Sir William Gore and his wife (d. 1707 and
+1705 respectively); Sir William was Lord Mayor of London; (4) good Perp.
+windows in each aisle.</p>
+
+<p>Tring was formerly a considerable centre of the straw-plait industry,
+which is still pursued to a less extent. The place is of great
+antiquity, <i>Treung</i> hundred dating from the days of Alfred the Great.
+William I. gave it to Robert Earl of Ewe, and Stephen kindly bestowed it
+upon the monks of Faversham, &ldquo;in perpetual Alms for the Health of the
+Souls of Maud his Queen and all faithful People&rdquo;. Edward II. granted to
+Tring market rights.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tring Park</i> (property of Hon. N. C. Rothschild) is surrounded by
+perhaps the most exquisite woods&mdash;largely of beech&mdash;in the whole county.
+Much altered in modern times, it is said to have been designed by Wren,
+and to have been visited by Charles II. The park is well kept, and
+contains many living curiosities placed here by Lord Rothschild, a lover
+of natural history. The <i>Museum</i>, at the top of Akeman Street,
+containing a fine zoological collection, is the outcome of his
+lordship&rsquo;s energy and benevolence. The <i>Museum House</i>, to which it is
+attached, is a prettily designed structure of red brick, with gables.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tring, Little</i>, is a hamlet 1&frac14; mile N.W. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211"></a>[Pg&nbsp;211]</span>from the town, and Tring
+Grove, a hamlet 1&frac14; mile N.E. The former is near the large reservoirs,
+upon which several of the rare birds mentioned in the Introduction
+(<a href="#IntroIV" >Section IV.</a>) were observed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Trowley Bottom</i> (3 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet
+a little S. from Flamstead, in one of the most thoroughly rural
+districts in the county. The Roman <i>Watling Street</i> (St.
+Albans-Dunstable road) is 1 mile N.E.</p>
+
+<p><i>Turnford</i> (1&frac14; mile S.W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet in
+Cheshunt parish, on the New River. <i>Broxbourne Bury Park</i> is 1 mile N.</p>
+
+<p><a name="TwoWaters" id="TwoWaters"></a><i>Two Waters</i> owes its name to its position at the junction of two small
+rivers&mdash;the Gade and the Bulbourne. It is in Hemel Hempstead parish, and
+about 1 mile E. from Boxmoor Station.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tyttenhanger.</i> (See <a href="#Tittenhanger">Tittenhanger</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Upwick Green</i> (4 miles N.W. from Bishop&rsquo;s Stortford) is a hamlet on the
+Essex border. <i>Hadham Hall</i> (see <a href="#LittleHadham">Little Hadham</a>) is 1 mile S.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Verulam" id="Verulam"></a>VERULAM. Of the old Roman <i>municipium</i> (<i>Verulamium</i>) there now remains
+above ground little more than some large fragments of crumbling wall in
+the valley of the Ver, immediately S.W. from St. Albans. Passing under
+the old Gatehouse and crossing the bridge at the Silk Mill the visitor,
+instead of turning right and following the course of the Ver, should
+keep straight on and pass the small <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212"></a>[Pg&nbsp;212]</span>gate into Verulam Woods. On his
+right as he follows the broad footpath will be the outer E. wall of the
+Roman city; on his left what appears a long gorge, overgrown by bushes
+and trees of many species, was once the <i>fosse</i>. Note the great
+thickness and solidity of the walls, and the tile-like bricks, similar
+to those in the Abbey tower, mingled with flints. Presently both wall
+and fosse turn sharply W. and may be followed in that direction for a
+considerable distance. The walls may also be traced at other spots
+farther W., particularly a large mass known as Gorhambury Block,
+believed to mark the boundary of the <i>municipium</i> in that direction.</p>
+
+<p>It has been mentioned in the Introduction (<a href="#IntroIX" >Section IX.</a>) that the only
+Roman theatre known to have existed in England stood in this
+neighbourhood. Its remains were discovered rather more than seventy
+years ago in a field immediately W. from St. Michael&rsquo;s Church; nothing
+is now to be seen, for the excavations have been again covered. The
+discovery included that of the stage, somewhat narrow, the <i>auditorium</i>,
+with many rows of seats, and portions of the frescoed walls. Many coins
+were found among the ruins.</p>
+
+<p>Mention must be made of the fact that the Roman <i>Verulamium</i> was the
+scene of the awful massacre in the time of Boadicea, when the Queen of
+the Iceni, with a great number of followers, slew alike the British and
+Roman inhabitants and partially destroyed the city (<span class="smcap lowercase">A.D.</span> 61).
+An account of this is in the <i>Annals</i> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213"></a>[Pg&nbsp;213]</span>of Tacitus. The place was
+subsequently rebuilt and occupied by the Saxons, who called it
+<i>Watlingceaster</i>, or <i>Werlamceaster</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wade&rsquo;s Mill.</i> (See <a href="#Thundridge">Thundridge</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Wakely</i> (2 miles W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet in
+Westmill parish, consisting of a farm and a few cottages.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Walkern" id="Walkern"></a><span class="smcap">Walkern</span> (4&frac12; miles E. from Stevenage) is a large village, with
+many picturesque nooks and cottages. The river Beane skirts it on the E.
+side. The manor is very ancient; Chauncy speaks of &ldquo;Walkerne&rdquo; as a town,
+and mentions a mill which stood in his day (1632-1719) at its S. end,
+presumably where Walkern Mill now stands. The church, on a knoll sloping
+to the Beane, is mostly Perp., but retains Norman work in the S. aisle;
+the chancel is modern, E.E. in style. The effigy in Purbeck marble in a
+recess of S. wall, of a knight in chain mail, is thought to represent
+one of the Lanvalei family. If so, it forms an interesting link with a
+remote past, for in the reign of King John one Alan Basset paid a
+hundred marks to that monarch, and gave him a palfrey &ldquo;that his daughter
+might marry the heir of William de Lanvalley&rdquo;. There are also effigies
+on brass to the Humberstone family (sixteenth century). <i>Walkern Hall</i>
+(1 mile S.E.) stands in a small but pretty park; <i>Walkern Bury</i> (1 mile
+E.) can still show some remains of a castle.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Wallington" id="Wallington"></a><span class="smcap">Wallington</span> (3&frac12; miles E. from Baldock) lies in one of the most
+quiet districts of the county, a district almost entirely agricultural.
+The village is small; a few cottages are ancient and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a>[Pg&nbsp;214]</span>picturesque, but
+there is little to notice. Take the lane opposite the Plough Inn to
+reach the church, which can show a good Perp. roof and screen, and some
+mutilated monuments and brasses in the chapel. The main structure is
+Dec.; but the chancel was rebuilt forty years ago. A walk affording
+views very characteristic of Herts may be taken from the footpath near
+the walled pond adjoining the church, by bearing S.S.E. to Red Hill,
+Rushden and Cottered.</p>
+
+<p><i>Walsworth</i>, a hamlet, is almost a suburb at the N.E. end of Hitchin, &frac12;
+mile from the station.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo026" name="illo026"></a>
+   <img src="images/illo026.png"
+      alt="WALTHAM CROSS"
+      title="WALTHAM CROSS"
+      height="600" width="349"/>
+   <p class="caption">WALTHAM CROSS</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="WalthamCross" id="WalthamCross"></a>WALTHAM CROSS, on the London-Cambridge road, owes its name, as is well
+known, to the Cross which Edward I. erected to the memory of Queen
+Eleanor about 1&frac14; mile W. from Waltham Abbey. The cross stands a little
+W. from Waltham Station (G.E.R.), where the above-mentioned road meets
+that which leads E. to the Abbey. Although frequently restored it is
+perhaps even now more complete than any other Eleanor Cross still
+existing. (That erected at St. Albans, as already stated, was destroyed
+about 200 years ago.) It is, I believe, disputed as to whether it was
+designed by Pietro Cavalini or not; it was completed in 1294. It is
+hexagonal in shape, of three stages, diminishing from basement to
+summit; the details of its sculpture can be readily seized by examining
+Mr. New&rsquo;s drawing. The restoration of 1833 was worked in Bath stone;
+this was largely replaced by new material, in Ketton <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215"></a>[Pg&nbsp;215]</span>stone, only a
+few years ago, at which time the Old Falcon Inn, which projected almost
+to the cross, was pulled down, thus affording a view of the monument
+from all sides.</p>
+
+<p>The Four Swans, close to the cross, dates from 1260, as is testified on
+the large, quaint sign-board which swings above the road; but only a few
+portions of the present structure are of any great antiquity. There is a
+modern church a little N. from the cross; but much of the district
+commonly called Waltham is in Essex. Of great interest to visitors,
+however, and about 1 mile W. from the Cross, is <i>Theobald&rsquo;s Park</i>, a
+brick mansion erected about 150 years back by Sir G. W. Prescott, Bart.
+At one of the entrances to the park stands Temple Bar, brought here from
+Fleet Street and erected in its present position in 1888. The house does
+not occupy the site of the historic manor house visited by so many
+sovereigns, which stood on a slight eminence some distance to the N.W.
+It was William Cecil, afterwards Lord Burghley, who commenced to build
+that famous mansion in 1560, and enlarged it considerably when he found
+it pleasant in the eyes of many persons of high degree. Queen Elizabeth
+was frequently a visitor at Theobalds. It was Burghley&rsquo;s son, Robert
+Cecil, who entertained James I. here as that monarch was on his way to
+London and the English Crown, and James became so pleased with the house
+and its surroundings that he obtained it from Cecil, giving him the
+royal manor of Hatfield in its stead. It was from <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216"></a>[Pg&nbsp;216]</span><i>Theobalds</i> that
+Charles I. set out to raise his standard at Nottingham (1642). The house
+was partially destroyed during the turmoil that ensued; after the
+Restoration it was given by Charles II. to George Monk. It was
+subsequently the property of the Earl of Portland and of several other
+persons.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Ware" id="Ware"></a>WARE was for a long period, and is perhaps now, the centre of the malt
+trade in Herts, but brickmaking is also extensively carried on. The
+river Lea skirts the town on the S. side, and is crossed by an iron
+bridge near the Barge Inn. The High Street displays many new houses and
+shops, but by turning into the smaller by-ways visitors may find quaint
+cottages and picturesque nooks and corners. The town is very ancient,
+but contained only a few persons at the time of the Conquest.</p>
+
+<p>The cruciform church of St. Mary has been much restored; the body of the
+present structure is Dec.; but the tower and chancel are Perp. Note (1)
+the carved oak screen separating the S. transept from the Lady-chapel;
+(2) sedilia, piscina and ambries in the chapel itself; (3) octagonal
+font (<i>temp.</i> Henry IV.), bearing figures of saints on its panels; (4)
+mural monument in S. transept to Sir Richard Fanshawe; (5) brass to W.
+Pyrry or Pyrey (d. 1470) and his wives Agnes and Alice, the inscription
+was apparently never completed; (6) curious brass figure near pulpit.
+There is also a modern church in the New Road, E.E. in style, of Kentish
+Rag and Bath Stone.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a>[Pg&nbsp;217]</span>There was a Franciscan Priory a little W. from the church, which,
+although sometimes said to have been founded by Margaret, Countess of
+Leicester (<i>temp.</i> Henry III.), was probably of much earlier foundation,
+though doubtless enlarged by that lady. It fell into decay after the
+Dissolution, but some remains of the old buildings are still to be seen
+at <i>Ware Priory</i>, a mansion occupying the site. The property formed a
+separate manor, which was given to the Countess of Richmond by her son,
+Henry VII.</p>
+
+<p>Ware is not without literary association. The Johnny Gilpin, on the road
+to Amwell, commemorates the hero of Cowper&rsquo;s ballad; Pepys mentions his
+visits to the town on several occasions; Dick Turpin, as the story runs
+in Ainsworth&rsquo;s <i>Rookwood</i>, passed through Ware in his famous ride to
+York; Godwin, who figures so largely in the Lamb literature, was for
+some years the Independent minister of the town. By a long ascent N.
+from the town, we reach, by turning right, the hamlet of <i>Ware Side</i>,
+picturesquely scattered over a slight depression close to <i>Widford</i>
+(<i><a href="#Widford">q.v.</a></i>). W. from the town is <i>Ware Park</i>, a mansion on a beautiful
+eminence.</p>
+
+<p><i>Warren&rsquo;s Green</i> (about 4 miles N.E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is
+a small hamlet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Water End</i>, on the river Gade, is on the S.W. confines of Gaddesden
+Park. There are also hamlets of the same name (1) close to Ayot Station,
+G.N.R.; (2) at the E. extremity of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218"></a>[Pg&nbsp;218]</span>Mimms Park, 2 miles N.W. from
+Potter&rsquo;s Bar Station (Middlesex).</p>
+
+<p><i>Waterford</i> and <i>Waterford Marsh</i> are in Bengeo parish, on the river
+Beane. On the marsh is some grazing common, free to all parishioners.</p>
+
+<p><i>Waterside</i> is the name of a few cottages (1) on the river Gade, near
+King&rsquo;s Langley village; (2) at Mill Green, 1 mile N.E. from Hatfield.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Watford" id="Watford"></a>WATFORD, including its quickly rising suburbs, is much the largest town
+in Hertfordshire. The Colne crosses the high road where it dips before
+rising towards Bushey, and Chauncy says that the town derives its name
+from the Wet Ford by which the river is crossed. The building of the
+Junction Station (L.&amp;N.W.R.), N.E. from the High Street, did much to
+facilitate the growth of Watford and extend its trade; the railroad
+diverges S.W. to Rickmansworth only, and N.E. to Bricket Wood, Park
+Street and St. Albans; the main line from London passes through a long
+tunnel before reaching King&rsquo;s Langley Station. The antiquities of the
+town itself are less interesting and indeed less known than those of
+other towns in the county, and Chauncy, <i>e.g.</i>, finds little to say
+about it. The manor was long held by the abbots of St. Albans; then it
+became Crown property, and after several changes of ownership passed to
+William, fourth Earl of Essex, whose descendants are still lords of the
+manor.</p>
+
+<p>The parish church, on a small yard adjoining the S. side of the High
+Street, is Perp., and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219"></a>[Pg&nbsp;219]</span>was well restored about fifty years ago; with its
+<i>Katherine-</i> and <i>Essex Chapels</i> it forms a large and imposing
+structure. The latter chapel was built in 1595 by Bridget, Countess of
+Bedford. Its monuments are very numerous and comprise (1) to Sir Charles
+Morison, Kt. (d. 1599), and Dorothy his wife; note the fine kneeling
+effigies; (2) to Sir Charles Morison, K.B., son of the foregoing (d.
+1628), and the Hon. Mary (Hicks) his wife, with recumbent effigies one
+above the other, and attendant figures of a daughter and two sons (note
+the Corinthian columns which support the canopy overshadowing the
+whole); both these Morison monuments were the work of Nicholas Stone,
+mentioned in Walpole&rsquo;s <i>Anecdotes</i>; (3) altar-tomb to the founder of the
+chapel (d. 1600); (4) altar-tomb with Tuscan columns and recumbent
+effigy to Elizabeth, wife of Sir William Russell (d. 1611). Among the
+brasses are those to (1) Henry Dickson (d. 1610); George Miller (d.
+1613) and Anthony Cooper, &ldquo;servants to Sir Charles Morryson, Kt.&rdquo;; (2)
+imperfect, Hugo de Holes, Justice of the King&rsquo;s Bench (d. 1415), and
+Margaretta his wife (d. 1416); (3) Henry Baldwyn of Reedheath (d. 1601),
+Alice, his wife, and three children; (4) James Moss, a messenger to
+George II. (d. 1758).</p>
+
+<p>There are modern churches: (1) St. John&rsquo;s, in the Sutton Road, a Gothic
+edifice completed in 1893; (2) St. Andrew&rsquo;s, near the Junction, E.E. in
+design, with a good stained glass <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220"></a>[Pg&nbsp;220]</span>window in the S. aisle, and a
+beautiful Roman Catholic church by Bentley, architect of Westminster
+cathedral. In Beechen Grove is one of the finest Nonconformist (Baptist)
+chapels in the county; it dates from 1878 and is Italian in design.
+Market day is on Tuesday.</p>
+
+<p>CASHIOBURY PARK stretches from the N.W. end of Watford,
+reaching&mdash;together with Grove Park, which it joins&mdash;to the parting of
+the ways at Langleybury Church (4 miles N.W. from Watford Old Church).
+It is crossed from N. to S. by the river Gade. The present mansion dates
+from 1800; it was built by Wyatt for the fifth Earl of Essex. Disposed
+around an open courtyard, its many handsome apartments make a noble
+appearance; what was formerly part of the N. wing of the old mansion
+built by Sir Richard Morrison and his son Charles in the sixteenth
+century is still retained, although that house was largely rebuilt by
+the first earl, from designs furnished by Hugh May. There is a fine
+library, and three smaller ones, the collection of books being very
+valuable; but in the estimation of many the pictures are still more so.
+Among them may be named: (1) Arthur Lord Capel and his family, C.
+Janssens; this was the Capel who defended Colchester and was beheaded in
+1649; (2) Charles II., by Lely; (3) fifth Earl of Essex as a boy with
+his sister, by Reynolds, in frame carved by Grinling Gibbons; (4)
+Countess of Ranelagh, full length, by <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221"></a>[Pg&nbsp;221]</span>Kneller; (5) portrait by Rubens,
+probably of Charlotte de la Tremouille, afterwards Countess of Derby;
+(6) &ldquo;Moll Davis&rdquo; (actress), by Lely. There are many others, especially
+further portraits of the Capel family. The park and grounds are
+beautifully laid out. The park is open to the public; but the house is
+shown only by special request.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Watton" id="Watton"></a><span class="smcap">Watton</span> or <span class="smcap">Watton at Stone</span> is a large village on the
+Hertford-Stevenage road and the river Beane, 3&frac12; miles S.E. from
+Knebworth Station, G.N.R. Its position is very central, the roads from
+Ware, Hertford, Great and Little Munden, Walkern, Stevenage, Welwyn and
+Tewin all converging within the area of the main street. The church, at
+the S. end of the village, is Perp.; it was entirely restored in 1851.
+Note (1) piscina and triple sedilia in chancel; (2) doors formerly
+leading to rood loft; (3) curious tombstone, E.E., in the churchyard;
+(4) E. window of stained glass, dating from the Restoration; (5)
+memorial window in the S. aisle to Lady Catherine Barrington. The
+brasses are unusually old and interesting, <i>e.g.</i>, (1) with canopied
+effigy, to Sir Philip Peletot (d. 1361); (2) to Sir E. Bardolf (d.
+1455); the effigy is that of his wife, his own having been long missing;
+(3) to John Boteler (Butler) and family (1514). The Boteler family, to
+whom there are many other memorials in the church, lived for many
+generations in the manor house of Woodhall, burnt in 1771. The house
+stood on high <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222"></a>[Pg&nbsp;222]</span>ground in the beautiful <i>Woodhall Park</i>, E. from Watton
+Church, on the site occupied by the present fine mansion (Abel Smith,
+Esq., J.P.). The Beane flows through the park and has been widened to
+form a large sheet of water S. from the house.</p>
+
+<p><i>Welham Green</i> is between Hatfield- and Mimms Parks, 2 miles S. from
+Hatfield Station.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wellbury</i> is 3 miles W. from Hitchin. <i>Wellbury House</i> (modern) stands
+in a small park; two small places of few inhabitants, called &ldquo;Old&rdquo; and
+&ldquo;New&rdquo; Wellbury, lie on the N.E. outskirts of the Park.</p>
+
+<p>WELWYN, a small town in the Maran Valley, can show little of interest
+beyond many quaint cottages, and the church, famous as that in which Dr.
+Edward Young, author of <i>Night Thoughts</i>, officiated from 1730 to 1765.
+He was buried in the church; the mural memorial to him was erected by
+his son. The church is Dec., with E.E. portions; the piscina in the
+chancel is ancient, the sedilia is modern. An inventory of the church
+furniture, taken in 1541, shows that there were formerly three altars in
+it. The avenue of limes in the rectory grounds was planted by Young;
+there is a Latin inscription to the poet on a pedestal at its upper end.
+His son was visited here by Dr. Johnson and James Boswell.</p>
+
+<p>The walk S.E. to the station (1&frac14; mile) commands a fine view of the Great
+Northern viaduct of forty arches over the deeper portion of the Maran
+Valley. On the opposite (left) side of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223"></a>[Pg&nbsp;223]</span>the road is <i>Locksleys</i>, a good
+mansion by the river side, surrounded by charming grounds. One mile S.
+is <i>The Frythe</i>, long the residence of the Wilshere family; at a rather
+less distance N. is <i>Danesbury</i>, a prettily designed mansion in a small
+park.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;King Etheldred ... willing to relieve his people from the barbarous
+usuage and the inhuman actions of the insulting Danes ... sent
+instructions to the Governors of all cities, boroughs and towns in his
+dominions, commanding, that at a certain hour upon the feast of St.
+Brice, all the Danes should be massacred; and common fame tells us that
+this massacre began at a little town called Welwine in Hertfordshire,
+within twenty-four miles of London, in the year 1012, from which Act,
+&rsquo;tis said this Vill received the name of Welwine, because the Weal of
+this county (as it was then thought) was there first won; but the Saxons
+long before called this town Welnes, from the many springs which rise in
+this Vill; for in old time Wells in their language were term&rsquo;d Welnes.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>One of the springs in the neighbourhood, now disused, was famous in
+Young&rsquo;s day for its chalybeate waters.</p>
+
+<p><i>West End</i> is a hamlet 2 miles S.W. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. It
+lies close to the N.W. corner of <i>Bedwell Park</i>, with the river Lea 1
+mile N.</p>
+
+<p><i>West Hyde</i>, in the extreme S.W. of the county, near the river Colne,
+has a modern cruciform church, Italian in style.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224"></a>[Pg&nbsp;224]</span><a name="Westmill" id="Westmill"></a><span class="smcap">Westmill</span>, a church and picturesque cluster of cottages in a
+hollow a little W. from the Buntingford Road, is 1&frac12; mile S. from that
+town. The river Rib runs between the church and the station (G.E.R.).
+The manor is ancient; it was given by William I. to Robert de Olgi.
+Nathanial Salmon, author of a <i>History of Hertfordshire</i> published in
+1728, was once curate here.</p>
+
+<p>The church very probably dates from the end of the thirteenth century,
+and is an E.E. flint structure. There are some old slabs in the chancel
+to the Bellenden family, and one on the nave floor bearing an
+inscription to one Thomas de Leukenor (?).</p>
+
+<p><i>Westmill Green</i> is a hamlet 1&frac12; mile S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Weston" id="Weston"></a><span class="smcap">Weston</span>, a large village 3 miles S.E. from Baldock, has an
+interesting, restored church, dating from about 1200. It has a N.
+transept, in which are two good Norman windows; a piscina, E.E., is in
+the nave. The massive embattled tower, which carries an octagonal, N.E.
+turret, was rebuilt in 1867. In the churchyard may be seen two small
+stones, about four yards apart, which, according to local tradition,
+mark the grave of the Weston giant. The church was once a property of
+the Knights Templars. There is what seems a second village just where a
+narrow footpath leads from the Lufen Hall Road to the church, which
+stands &frac12; mile E. from the long main street. Many folk may still be
+noticed plaiting in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225"></a>[Pg&nbsp;225]</span><i>Weston Dane End</i> (1&frac12; mile S. from the above village) is a hamlet on
+the road to Walkern.</p>
+
+<p><i>Westwick Row</i> (2 miles S.E. from Hemel Hempstead) is a hamlet near
+Leverstock Green, in a charming neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Wheathampstead" id="Wheathampstead"></a><span class="smcap">Wheathampstead</span> lies in a hollow, in the valley of the Lea.
+Cyclists approaching the village from St. Albans by way of Sandridge and
+No Man&rsquo;s Land must beware of the steep descent from the Old Red Cow to
+the Swan Inn. The place undoubtedly owes its name to the fine wheat
+grown in the neighbourhood; it is very picturesque, particularly around
+the church and vicarage, and by the waterside towards <i>Brocket Hall</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The cruciform church, W. from the centre of the village, is E.E. and
+Dec. with a few Perp. features. A doorway in the <i>Brocket Chapel</i> is
+supposed to be Saxon, but I cannot say whether the supposition is
+correct; the chapel also contains an altar-tomb with effigies of Sir
+John Brocket and his wife, Margaret, bearing date 1543, and a piscina in
+the S. wall. A brass of much interest is that to Hugh Bostock and his
+wife, Margaret (<i>circa</i> 1450), showing their figures in robes. These
+persons were the parents of John de Wheathampsted. (See <a href="#StAlbans">St. Albans</a>.) An
+old marble tablet is to John Heyworth (d. 1558) and his wife Joan. Note
+also the monumental effigies in N. transept to Sir John Garrard, Bart.
+(d. 1637), and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1632). The <i>reredos</i> is very fine.</p>
+
+<p>Forty years ago the village was truly rural, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226"></a>[Pg&nbsp;226]</span>but the rebuilding of the
+old mill between the church and station (G.N.R. branch from Hatfield to
+Dunstable) and the erection of several modern shops in the main street
+has altered its appearance. <i>Wheathampstead House</i>, close to the
+station, is the seat of Earl Cavan; <i>Lamer Park</i>, a little N., slopes
+pleasantly towards the fine home of A. G. B. Cherry-Garrard, Esq.</p>
+
+<p>Mention must be made of the curious bronze vessel of the Anglo-Saxon
+period, resembling a teapot, found in the neighbourhood some years ago.
+It is figured and described in the recently published <i>Victoria History
+of Hertfordshire</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wheathampstead Cross</i> (1&frac12; mile S.E. from Harpenden Station, M.R.) is 2
+miles S.W. from the above village. It contains nothing but a few
+cottages.</p>
+
+<p><i>Whempstead</i>, a hamlet in the centre of the county, is not easily
+reached, being about 5 miles E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R., and
+rather farther N.W. from Ware. The so-called <i>Whempstead Chapel</i>,
+recently demolished, was a small cottage, but it doubtless stood near
+the site of an old chapel &ldquo;founded and endowed about the beginning of
+the thirteenth century by the family of Aguillon&rdquo;.</p>
+
+<p><i>White Barns</i>, near the Essex border, is a hamlet &frac34; mile N. from
+Furneaux Pelham (<i><a href="#FurnPelham">q.v.</a></i>).</p>
+
+<p><i>Whitwell</i> (4&frac12; miles S.W. from Stevenage) is strictly a hamlet, but is a
+place of some size, scattered along the S. bank of the river Maran. The
+nearest parish church is at St. Paul&rsquo;s <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227"></a>[Pg&nbsp;227]</span>Walden (<i><a href="#StPaulsWalden">q.v.</a></i>), but there is a
+modern Baptist chapel near the centre of the main street, and a small
+church on the Bendish Road, formerly owned by the Countess of
+Huntingdon&rsquo;s Connection; it is now partially disused. The mill at the E.
+end of the village, near the old tan-yard, was burnt down many years
+ago, but has since been rebuilt.</p>
+
+<p><i>Widbury</i> is 1 mile E. from Ware.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Widford" id="Widford"></a><span class="smcap">Widford</span>, so interesting in the eyes of all lovers of Charles
+Lamb, is a small village on the river Ash, with a station (G.E.R.) a few
+minutes W. from the church. Visitors, however, must remember that much
+in the neighbourhood has changed since Lamb&rsquo;s day. He himself recorded
+the demolition of the old house &ldquo;Blakesware&rdquo; or, as he wrote it,
+&ldquo;<a name="cm14" id="cm14"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr14"
+title="Original reads 'Blakemoor'">Blakesmoor</a>,&rdquo; which he knew so well as a child; the church spire,
+mentioned in his verses &ldquo;The Grandame,&rdquo; was rebuilt many years back; the
+cottage at <i>Blenheim</i> close by, immortalised in <i>Rosamund Gray</i>, was
+long ago rebuilt.</p>
+
+<p>The church is Dec. and Perp.; there are sedilia in the chancel, the roof
+of which was finely painted by Miss Gosselin forty years ago, and there
+is a piscina in the nave. The circular stone staircase that formerly led
+to the old rood-loft was built up during restoration. The present E.
+window is to the memory of John Eliot&mdash;the missionary to the
+Indians&mdash;born at Nazing early in the seventeenth century. There are very
+few memorials; one might almost repeat the words written of the church
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228"></a>[Pg&nbsp;228]</span>two centuries ago, &ldquo;In this church are no gravestones&rdquo;. The manor is
+very ancient and was held in the reign of William I. by the Bishop of
+London.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wigginton</i> lies on very high ground, commanding splendid views. The
+village is about 1&frac12; mile S.W. from Tring Station, L.&amp;N.W.R.; the church,
+near the parting of the roads at its S.E. extremity, is a small flint
+structure, E.E. in style, with a modern N. aisle. It has no tower.
+<i>Champneys</i>, near Wigginton Common (1 mile S.), is a prettily situated
+mansion, rebuilt in 1874. It was formerly the residence of the Valpy
+family.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wilbury Hill</i>, between Ickleford and Baldock, is crossed by the Roman
+Icknield Way. The <i>vallum</i>, through which the Way passes, is thought to
+mark the site of a Roman camp; Stukeley&rsquo;s suggestion that it was
+probably the site of a British <i>oppidum</i> is questioned by Salmon
+(<i>History of Hertfordshire</i>, 1728). Roman coins have been found in some
+abundance in the neighbourhood, notably a silver <i>Faustina</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wild Hill</i> is between Hatfield and Bedwell Parks.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Willian" id="Willian"></a><i>Willian</i>, formerly Wylie (2 miles N.E. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.),
+is very ancient, mention of it as a property dating from the times of
+the Mercian kings. The village lies 1 mile W. from the Great North Road.
+The church is thought to date from the Conquest, but only an arch in the
+chancel is Norman. Note (1) the monument to &ldquo;Edvardus Lacon&rdquo; <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229"></a>[Pg&nbsp;229]</span>(d. 1625),
+and Joanna his wife (d. 1624); (2) small brass to Richard Goldon, a
+former vicar (d. 1446&mdash;? 1417). A tiny graveyard surrounds the church.
+<i>Roxley Court</i> (&frac12; mile S.) is the property of Colonel Mortimer Hancock.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wilstone</i>, near the Aylesbury Canal, lies in a hollow 2 miles S.E. from
+Marston Gate Station, L.&amp;N.W.R. It has a modern church, E.E. in style,
+consisting of nave only.</p>
+
+<p><i>Windridge</i>, a ward of St. Stephen&rsquo;s parish, is 1&frac12; mile S.W. from the
+L.&amp;N.W.R. Station at the foot of Holywell Hill, St. Albans.</p>
+
+<p><i>Winter Green</i> is on the N.W. confines of Knebworth Park, about 1 mile
+from the church and 2 miles from the station (G.N.R.). The neighbourhood
+is on high ground.</p>
+
+<p><i>Woodend</i> (3&frac12; miles S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) has a numerous
+population, but is, I believe, a hamlet in Ardeley parish. The modern
+Chapel of St. Alban the Martyr is built largely of small stones, and has
+a S. porch. <i>Walkern Park</i> is &frac34; mile S.W.</p>
+
+<p><i>Woodhall</i> (1&frac12; mile N.N.E. from Hatfield) is a scattered hamlet between
+Stanborough and Hatfield Hyde. Two farms and several cottages bear the
+name. Woodhall Woods are a little farther N.</p>
+
+<p><i>Woodhill</i> (about 3&frac12; miles S.E. from Hatfield) is prettily situated,
+with <i>Brookmans</i>, <i>Hatfield</i> and <i>Bedwell</i> Parks all within a short
+walk. St. Mark&rsquo;s Chapel-of-Ease was rebuilt in 1880, although originally
+erected only in 1852 by the then Marquess of Salisbury.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230"></a>[Pg&nbsp;230]</span><i>Woodside</i> is the name of at least three small places, (1) in the
+neighbourhood of Hatfield, where Upper and Lower Woodside are at the
+S.E. side of the park; (2) a ward in the parish of Cheshunt; (3) in the
+parish of Leavesden.</p>
+
+<p><i>Woollen&rsquo;s Brook</i>, on the Hoddesdon-Hertford road, has a tiny Mission
+Church. It is a small hamlet, a little S. from Haileybury College.</p>
+
+<p><i>Woolmer Green</i> lies on the Great North Road, 1 mile S.E. from Knebworth
+Station, G.N.R. The roads from Welwyn, Stevenage and Bramfield meet at
+the S. end of the street. The hamlet is considerable.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Wormley" id="Wormley"></a><span class="smcap">Wormley</span> (1 mile S.W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is on the
+New River. The church is at <i>Wormley Bury</i>, &frac12; mile W. from the village;
+it is very ancient, but was restored twenty years ago. Note (1) Norman
+font; (2) small Norman doorway on N. side; (3) &ldquo;The Last Supper,&rdquo; by
+Giacomo Palma, a fine picture over the communion table; (4) rebuilt
+chancel arch; (5) Perp. windows in nave; (6) tablet on S. wall to Gough
+the antiquary (d. at Enfield, 1809). Gough completed a translation of a
+French history of the Bible in his thirteenth year, which was printed
+for private circulation; he subsequently translated Fleury&rsquo;s work on
+Israelitish customs and edited Camden&rsquo;s <i>Britannia</i>. He bequeathed many
+MSS. to Oxford University.</p>
+
+<p>The church contains other modern monuments, and there are brasses (1) to
+John Cleve, Rector (d. 1404); (2) to Edward Howton (d. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231"></a>[Pg&nbsp;231]</span>1479), his wife
+and family; (3) to John Cok, his wife and eleven sons; date uncertain,
+but presumably fifteenth century. Cok or Cock was the name of a very old
+family in the neighbourhood, especially at Broxbourne.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Wyddial" id="Wyddial"></a><span class="smcap">Wyddial</span> (1&frac12; mile N.E. from Buntingford) was called <i>Widihale</i>
+in <i>Domesday Book</i>, and was given by William I. to Hardwin de Scalers.
+The walk from Buntingford up the hill to the ruined church at Layston
+(<i><a href="#Layston">q.v.</a></i>), and thence to this village, leads through some of the quietest
+spots in the county. The church is E.E., and stands on high ground a few
+yards N. from the road and about 1 mile W. from the river Quin. It was
+restored sixty years ago; but still retains two seventeenth-century
+stained-glass windows in the aisle, and two Jacobean screens. The little
+N. chapel of brick was built by one George Canon in 1632. The brasses
+include (1) to George Gyll, Lord of the Manor (d. 1546); (2) to Dame
+Margaret (Plumbe), a daughter of Sir Thomas Neville, Kt., and wife to
+Sir Robert Southwell, Master of the Rolls (d. 1575). There are many
+memorials to the Goulston family, several of whom were Lords of the
+Manor; that to Sir Richard Goulston (d. 1686) bears a long inscription
+in Latin. <i>Wyddial Hall</i>, in a small park close to the church, was the
+property of the Goulstons.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Wymondley, Great</span> or <span class="smcap">Much</span>, is nearly 2 miles S.E. from
+Hitchin Station, G.N.R. The church dates from early in the twelfth
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232"></a>[Pg&nbsp;232]</span>century, but has been much restored. The font, the chancel arch, and
+three windows in the chancel are said to be Norman; the tower is Perp.
+The memorials are unimportant.</p>
+
+<p>The neighbourhood is interesting. The Lords of the Manor of Wymondley
+Magna were formerly, as the newspapers have recently reminded us,
+Cup-bearers to the King at his Coronation. Near the church are some
+traces of an ancient fortification; a little S., and opposite a row of
+quaint cottages with heavily thatched roofs, stands <i>Delamere House</i>,
+once the property of Cardinal Wolsey, who is said to have been visited
+here by Henry VIII. At the <i>Manor Farm</i>, Edward VI.&mdash;according to
+tradition&mdash;once slept; the Green Man, close by, on the W. side of the
+main street, has been kept by successive generations of one family for
+300 years. Forty years ago several Roman urns were discovered in the
+neighbourhood, and the well-preserved pavement of a Roman villa was
+unearthed, subsequently, at Purwell Mill, between the village and
+Hitchin. Prehistoric implements have also been found.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Wymondley, Little</span>, formerly Wymondley Parva, is 1 mile S. from
+the above. The E. end of the street is crossed by the G.N.R. near the
+tiny churchyard. The church is Perp.; and was largely rebuilt in 1875;
+two earlier structures are thought to have occupied the site. It
+contains several inscriptions, and some monuments to the Needham family
+(seventeenth century). A Priory of Augustinian Canons, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233"></a>[Pg&nbsp;233]</span>dedicated to St.
+Mary, was founded here by Richard Argenton, in the reign of Henry III.;
+it was suppressed at the Dissolution. When, in 1891, the <i>Old Priory</i>
+farm-house was being altered, some portions of two E.E. arches were
+disclosed, and are thought to show where the cloister of the <i>Priory</i>
+stood. There is another E.E. arch in the house.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Yardley" id="Yardley"></a><span class="smcap">Yardley</span>. (See <a href="#Ardeley">Ardeley</a>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Youngsbury.</i> (See <a href="#HighCross">High Cross</a>.)</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_3_3">[3]</a></span> Chauncy writes: &ldquo;This Vill in old Records was called
+Cestrehunt, from Castrum in the Latin, which might, in all Probability,
+import some castle erected here by the Romans; and the Saxons imitating
+the name, though corruptly ... might from hence call it Cestrehunt&rdquo;.</p></div>
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_4_4">[4]</a></span> This Sir John Harrison erected the fine brick mansion in
+Balls Park, S.E. from Hertford, once the property of Charles Townsend,
+Secretary of State to George II. His widow built four almshouses at
+Butchery Green, long ago decayed.</p></div>
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_5_5">[5]</a></span> The story of the &ldquo;Maid of the Mill&rdquo; is, I understand, told
+in an early number of <i>Temple Bar</i>.</p></div>
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_6_6">[6]</a></span> <i>Hist. Antiq. of Hertfordshire</i>, etc., vol. i., p. 383, ed.
+1826.</p></div>
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_7_7">[7]</a></span> Clutterbuck says it was erected between 1402 and 1427.</p></div>
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_8_8">[8]</a></span> <i>Vide</i> <i>Historical Records of St. Albans</i>, by A. E. Gibbs,
+F.L.S., etc.; a most interesting little volume.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="center">
+   <a id="illo027" name="illo027"></a>
+<a href="images/illo027.jpg">
+   <img src="images/illo027_thumb.jpg"
+      alt="Map of Hertfordshire"
+      title="Map of Hertfordshire"
+      height="254" width="300"/>
+</a>
+   <p class="caption">Map of Hertfordshire</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234"></a>[Pg&nbsp;234]</span></p>
+<hr class="biggap" />
+<h2>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235"></a>[Pg&nbsp;235]</span>INDEX OF PERSONS</h2>
+
+<div class="index">
+<p><a id="IX_A" name="IX_A"></a>A</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Abbot d&rsquo;Aubeny, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+  <li>&mdash;&mdash; Eadmer, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Ealdred, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Geoffrey de Gorham, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Hugh de Eversden, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; John de Berkhampstead, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; John de Cella, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; John de Hertford, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; John de Marinis, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; John de la Moote, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; John&nbsp; Wheathampsted, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Leofstan, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Michael de Mentmore, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Paul de Caen, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Ralph, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Ramryge, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Robert de Gorham, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Roger de Norton, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Symon, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Thomas de la Mare, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Ulsinus, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Warren de Cambridge, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; William de Trumpyntone, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Wm. Wallingford, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Adane (brass), <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li>
+<li>Adrian IV., <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li>
+<li>Aguillon family, <a href="#Page_226">226</a></li>
+<li>Alan the Red, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Alban, a rector (brass), <a href="#Page_103">103</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; St., <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Albyn (brass), <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li>
+<li>Aldenham, Lord, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Alford, Lady M., <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li>
+<li>Alfred the Great, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li>
+<li>Altham, Helen, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir J., <a href="#Page_159">159</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Alwin the Thane, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+<li>Amphibalus, St., <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li>
+<li>Anestie, Rich. de, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li>
+<li>Anne of Bohemia, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Mortimer, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Annabull' in the text">Anorbul</a>, Wm. (brass), <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li>
+<li>Anthony, W., <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+<li>Antoninus (quoted), <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li>
+<li>Aram, Eugene, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li>
+<li>Arbuthnot, C. G., <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Archer, Robt., <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Argenthem, R. de, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+<li>Argenton, Rich., <a href="#Page_233">233</a></li>
+<li>Arnald the &ldquo;Leveller,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li>
+<li>Ascham, Roger, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
+<li>Asser, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li>
+<li>Athelstan, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li>
+<li>Atkins, Sir E., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
+<li>Axtil, Henry, <a href="#Page_157">157</a></li>
+<li>Aylmer, Bishop, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Judith, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_B" name="IX_B"></a>B</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Babthorpe, Ralph, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li>
+<li>Bache, Simon (brass), <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li>
+<li>Bacon, Francis, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li>
+<li><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236"></a>[Pg&nbsp;236]</span>Bacon, Sir Nich., <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li>
+<li>Baesh family, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li>
+<li>Baker, H. W. Clinton-, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; W. R., <a href="#Page_68">68</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Baldwyn family (brass), <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
+<li>Barclay, E. E., <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Bardolf, Sir E. (brass), <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
+<li>Barrington family, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
+<li>Bartolommeo, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li>
+<li>Basset, Alan, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Wm., <a href="#Page_174">174</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Baugiard, Ralph, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li>
+<li>Baxter, Rich., <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
+<li>Beaufort, Edmund, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
+<li>Becket, Thomas, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Bede (quoted), <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li>
+<li>Beel family (brass), <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
+<li>Beldam, J., F.S.A., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li>
+<li>Bell, John (brass), <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li>
+<li>Bellenden family, <a href="#Page_224">224</a></li>
+<li>&ldquo;Belted Will Howard,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
+<li>Benham, Canon, quoted, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+<li>Benson, Mgr. R. H., <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+<li>Benstede, Sir J., <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+<li>Beresford family, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li>
+<li>Bernard de Baliol, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li>
+<li>Bertulf, King, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+<li>Bessemer, Sir H., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Bickerdy, Marmaduke, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+<li>Binning, Lord, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
+<li>Bishop, Mr., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+<li>Blomfield, Sir A. W., <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li>
+<li>Blount family, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir H., <a href="#Page_145">145</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Boadicea, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li>
+<li>Bodley, Mr. G. F., <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
+<li>Bokeland, Nich. de, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Boleyn, Anne, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Bonham, Miss, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+<li>Bonner, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
+<li>Borrell, Sir J. (brass), <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Bostock, Hugh, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, (brass) <a href="#Page_225">225</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Margaret (brass), <a href="#Page_225">225</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Boswell, James, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li>
+<li>Boteler family, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, (brass) <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
+<li>Bouchier, Sir T., <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li>
+<li>Bowlby, A. S., <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li>
+<li>Bradby, Canon, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li>
+<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Breakspear' in the text">Brakespear</a>, Nich., <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li>
+<li>Bramfield family (brass), <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+<li>Braybroke, Bishop, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
+<li>Bridget, Countess, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
+<li>Bridgewater family (see <a href="#IX_Egerton" >Egerton</a>)<br />
+<br />
+Brockett family, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a></li>
+<li>Browne, Dean J., <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li>
+<li>Buckingham, Duke of, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li>
+<li>Bucknall family, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li>
+<li>Bunsen, Baron, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
+<li>Bunyan, John, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li>
+<li>Burghley, Lord, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
+<li>Burgo, Elizabeth de, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+<li>Burgundy, Duke of, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+<li>Burnet, Bishop, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
+<li>Butterfield, W., <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_C" name="IX_C"></a>C</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>C&aelig;sar family, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+<li>Calvert family, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li>
+<li>Canon, Geo., <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li>
+<li><a name="IX_Capell" id="IX_Capell"></a>Capell family, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
+<li>Carlo Dolce, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li>
+<li>Caroline, Queen, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li>
+<li>Carter family (brass), <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li>
+<li>Cary family (brasses), <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li>
+<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Cassivellaunus' in the text">Cassivelaunus</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>Catherine of Arragon, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Braganza, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Cavan, Earl, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a></li>
+<li>Cecil, Sir Robt., <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Thomas, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Chamberlain, Sir W., <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
+<li>Chamber, Father (brass), <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li>
+<li>Chantrey (sculptor), <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+<li>Chapman, Geo., <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
+<li>Chapple, John, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li>
+<li>Charlemagne, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
+<li>Charles I., <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; II., <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Chaucer, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+<li>Chauncy family, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir H, (quoted), <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237"></a>[Pg&nbsp;237]</span>Chester family, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Robt., <a href="#Page_173">173</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li>
+<li>Citroen, David, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Clarendon, Earl of, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li>
+<li>Clarkson (charity), <a href="#Page_60">60</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Thomas, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Cleve, Rev. John (brass), <a href="#Page_230">230</a></li>
+<li>Clifford, Lord John, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
+<li>Clinton family, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+<li>Clutterbuck, Robt. (quoted), <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li>
+<li>Clyfford, Eliza. (brass), <a href="#Page_56">56</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir Robt. (brass), <a href="#Page_56">56</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Cobb, Rev. J. W., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+<li>Cock, Sir H., <a href="#Page_80">80</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; (Cok) family (brasses), <a href="#Page_231">231</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Cogdell, T. (brass), <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+<li>Coke, Mildred, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li>
+<li>Conan, Duke of Brittany, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></li>
+<li>Coningsby, Sir R., <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li>
+<li>Cooch, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+<li>Cooper, Anthony (brass), <a href="#Page_219">219</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir A. Paston, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir A. Paston Paston, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Cottenham, Lord, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
+<li>Cotton, Dr., <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir J., <a href="#Page_154">154</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Courtenay, Henry, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Covert, Sir H. (brass), <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li>
+<li>Cowper, Ann, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; family, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; William, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Cressye, W. and G. (brasses), <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li>
+<li>Cromwell, Oliver, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Richard, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Crossman, Mr. Alan F., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Crouchback, Edmund, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+<li>Crowch family, <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li>
+<li>Cudworth, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Curll, William, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li>
+<li>Cussans, J. E., <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li>
+<li>Cutts, Sir John, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_D" name="IX_D"></a>D</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Dacre family, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li>
+<li>Dacres, Robert, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>David of Scotland, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li>
+<li>Day family (brass), <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li>
+<li>De Furneaux family, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li>
+<li>Delawood, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li>
+<li>Denny, Lady M. (brass), <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+<li>De Ros family, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>De Toni family, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Desborough, Lord, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li>
+<li>Devereux, Robt., <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li>
+<li>Dickens, Chas., <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li>
+<li>Dickson, Henry (brass), <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
+<li>&ldquo;Dick Turpin,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
+<li>Dion Cassius (quoted), <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+<li>Dixon, Nich. (brass), <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Docwra family, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li>
+<li>Doddridge, Rev. P., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Dodyngton family (brasses), <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li>
+<li>Dowman family (brass), <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li>
+<li>Duckett, Sir G., <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+<li>Dugdale, quoted, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li>
+<li>Dyer, Sir W. (brass), <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_E" name="IX_E"></a>E</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Ebury, Lord, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li>
+<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Egelwine' in the text">Edelwine</a> the Black, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li>
+<li>Edgar, King, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li>
+<li>Edmund de Langley, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; of Hadham, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; St., <a href="#Page_193">193</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Edward I., <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; II., <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; III., <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; IV., <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; VI., <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Black Prince, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; the Elder, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li><a name="IX_Egerton" id="IX_Egerton"></a>Egerton family, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li>
+<li>Egfrith, <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li>
+<li>Eleanor, Queen, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
+<li>Eliot, John, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></li>
+<li>Elizabeth, Queen, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
+<li>Ellis, Thos. and Grace, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li>
+<li>Elwes family, <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li>
+<li>Entwysel, Sir B., <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li>
+<li>Eric (Baron Reay), <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+<li>Essex, Earls of (see <a href="#IX_Capell" >Capell</a>)<br />
+<br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238"></a>[Pg&nbsp;238]</span>Ethelbert, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
+<li>Etheldred, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></li>
+<li>Etheric, Bishop, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li>
+<li>Eustace de Mere, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Earl of Boulogne, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Evans, Sir John, K.C.B., <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li>
+<li>Evelyn, John, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_F" name="IX_F"></a>F</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Fanshawe, Sir Rich., <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
+<li>Feilde family, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li>
+<li>Field, Dr. Nat., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li><a name="IX_Fitzroy" id="IX_Fitzroy"></a>Fitzroy, James, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li>
+<li>Flambard, Simon, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
+<li>Flaunden, Thos., <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+<li>Fleetwood, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Floyer (Flyer?) family, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Forester family, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+<li>Forster, John, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li>
+<li>Fortescue, Sir Rich., <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
+<li>Fouke, Sir B., <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+<li>Fountaine, Andrew, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li>
+<li>Fox, George, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
+<li>Freeman, Dr., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Frewell (Knight), <a href="#Page_153">153</a></li>
+<li>Frowyk family (brasses), <a href="#Page_152">152</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_G" name="IX_G"></a>G</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Garrard, A. G. B. Cherry-, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir J. and Elizabeth, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Gaveston, Piers, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li>
+<li>Geoffrey, Johannes (brass), <a href="#Page_198">198</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Treasurer, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>George II., <a href="#Page_219">219</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; III., <a href="#Page_209">209</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Gernon, Robt., <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li>
+<li>Gerrard de Furnival, <a href="#Page_152">152</a></li>
+<li>Giacomo Palma, <a href="#Page_230">230</a></li>
+<li>Giant of Weston, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a></li>
+<li>Gibbons, Grinling, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li>
+<li>Gibbs, Mr. A. E., F.L.S. (quoted), <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li>
+<li>Gildas, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
+<li>Giles-Puller, G. B., <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li>
+<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="Not found in the text">Glamis</a>, Lord, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+<li>Glascocke, Hon. Sir W., <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li>
+<li>Godwin, Harold, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li>
+<li>Godwin, Leofwin, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; William, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Goisfride de Bech, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li>
+<li>Goldon, Rich. (brass), <a href="#Page_229">229</a></li>
+<li>Gore family, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li>
+<li>Gosselin, Miss, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></li>
+<li>Gough the Antiquary, <a href="#Page_230">230</a></li>
+<li>Goulston family, <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li>
+<li>Gray, James (brass), <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li>
+<li>Grimston family, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a></li>
+<li>Grimthorpe, Lord, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li>
+<li>Grose, F. (quoted), <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li>
+<li>Gyll, Geo. (brass), <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_H" name="IX_H"></a>H</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Haggard, Mr. H. Rider, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Hall, Robert, <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li>
+<li>Halsey family, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+<li>Hamilton, Hon. Geo., <a href="#Page_101">101</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Jane, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Hampden, Viscount, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li>
+<li>Hanbury, C. A., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
+<li>Hancock, Col. M., <a href="#Page_229">229</a></li>
+<li>Harcourt family, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+<li>Hardwicke, Earl, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li>
+<li>Hardwin de Scalers, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li>
+<li>Harrington, Sir W., <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li>
+<li>Harrison, Sir John, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li>
+<li>Harvey, Sir <a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Garratt' in the text">Garrett</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
+<li>Hawksmoor, Nich., <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li>
+<li>Helen, St., <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+<li>Helle, Roger, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li>
+<li>Henry II., <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; III., <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; IV., <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; V., <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; VI., <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; VII., <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; VIII., <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; of Huntingdon, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Herkomer, Prof., <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li>
+<li>&ldquo;Hermit of Herts,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li>
+<li>Hert, James (brass), <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
+<li>Heydon family, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li>
+<li>Heyworth, John and Joan, <a href="#Page_225">225</a></li>
+<li>Hide family, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Leonard, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Hippolits, St., <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li>
+<li><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239"></a>[Pg&nbsp;239]</span>Hogarth, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li>
+<li>Holes, Justice (brass), <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
+<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Hollinshead' in the text">Hollinshed</a> (quoted), <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
+<li>Hoore family (brass), <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+<li>Hopkinson, Mr. J., F.L.S., <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+<li>Horsley, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Horwode, Ralph (brass), <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+<li>Hotoft, John (brass), <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li>
+<li>Howard of Escrick, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li>
+<li>Howe, Lord, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li>
+<li>Howton family (brass), <a href="#Page_230">230</a></li>
+<li>Hugh of Lincoln, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li>
+<li>Hughes family (brasses), <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li>
+<li>Humberstone family (brasses), <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
+<li>Humphrey, Duke of <a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Gloucester' in the text">Gloster</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Earl, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Hutchinson, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_I" name="IX_I"></a>I</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Incent, Dr. John, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+<li>Isabel of Castile, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li>
+<li>Isabella of France, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; (2nd wife, Rich. II.), <a href="#Page_120">120</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_J" name="IX_J"></a>J</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Jack o&rsquo; Legs, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a></li>
+<li>James I., <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; II., <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Janeway, James, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; John, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Janssens, C., <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li>
+<li>Jennings, Admiral, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; family, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Jerrold, Douglas, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li>
+<li>Joan of Navarre, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li>
+<li>Jocelin family, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li>
+<li>Jocelyn, Sir R., <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+<li>John, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; &ldquo;Gilpin,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; of France, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; of Gaunt, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Johnson, Dr., <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li>
+<li>Jones, Inigo, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li>
+<li>Joyce, Cornet, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+<li>Julian the Apostate, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_K" name="IX_K"></a>K</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="Katherine' in the text">Katharine</a> Tudor, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li>
+<li>Kemp, Bishop, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
+<li>Ken, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Kent family (brass), <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+<li>Kesteven, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li>
+<li>Kit Cat Club, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Kneller, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
+<li>Knighton, Sir G., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
+<li>Knolles family (brass), <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li>
+<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Bybsworth' in the text">Kybeworth</a>, Thos., <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_L" name="IX_L"></a>L</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Lacon, Edward and Joanna, <a href="#Page_229">229</a></li>
+<li>Lamb, Chas., <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Mary, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir M., <a href="#Page_114">114</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Lambard (brass), <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li>
+<li>Langley, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+<li>Lanvalei family, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
+<li>Lawes, Sir J. B., <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li>
+<li>Lee family, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Nathaniel, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir Rich., <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; W. de la, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Lely, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
+<li>Leoni (architect), <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li>
+<li>Leukenor (?), Thos., <a href="#Page_224">224</a></li>
+<li>Leventhorpe family (brasses), <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li>
+<li>Lewin, Earl, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li>
+<li>Lightfoot (Hebraist), <a href="#Page_41">41</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; J. (brass), <a href="#Page_152">152</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Limesy, Ralph, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li>
+<li>Long, Alderman (brass), <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Louis XI., <a href="#Page_66">66</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; (Dauphin), <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; XVIII., <a href="#Page_173">173</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Louthe family (brasses), <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li>
+<li>Loyd, W. J., <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li>
+<li>Lucas, James, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li>
+<li>Luini, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Lushington family, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
+<li>Lyde, Sir L., <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
+<li>Lytton, Bulwer, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; family, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Lord, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240"></a>[Pg&nbsp;240]</span>M<br />
+<br />
+Macaulay, Lord, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
+<li>Magnaville, G. de, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir Hugh de, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>&ldquo;Maid of the Mill,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li>
+<li>Makery, Thos., <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li>
+<li>Manning, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
+<li>Margaret of Anjou, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Countess, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Marjoribanks, Edward, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Martin, Mr. T. H., <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+<li>Mary (March. Salisbury), <a href="#Page_112">112</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Tudor, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Mattok (brasses), <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
+<li>Matthew of  Westminster (quoted) <a href="#Page_76">76</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Paris (quoted), <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Maundeville, Sir J., <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>Maurice, Bishop, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a></li>
+<li>Mawley, Edward, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+<li>May, Hugh, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li>
+<li>Mayne family (brasses), <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+<li>Meetkerke, Sir A., <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li>
+<li>Melbourne, Lord, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li>
+<li>Miles, General, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Miller, Geo. (brass), <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
+<li>&ldquo;Moll Davis,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
+<li>Monk, General, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
+<li>Monmouth (see <a href="#IX_Fitzroy" >Fitzroy</a>)<br />
+<br />
+Montacute, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; family, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>More, Sir Thos., <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li>
+<li>Moreton, Earl, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li>
+<li>Morison family, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li>
+<li>Morris, Dr. J., <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Moss, James (brass), <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
+<li>Murillo, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Myddelton' in the text">Myddleton</a>, Sir Hugh, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_N" name="IX_N"></a>N</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Needham family, <a href="#Page_232">232</a></li>
+<li>Nevil, Robt. and Elizabeth, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+<li>Nevill, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir Robt., <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Thos., <a href="#Page_56">56</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Neville, Sir Thos., <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li>
+<li>Newce family (brasses), <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
+<li>Newmarch, Isabel, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li>
+<li>Newport, Edward, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Robt. (brass), <a href="#Page_97">97</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Nicholson, Dr. J., <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li>
+<li>Nodes family (brasses), <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li>
+<li>Nollekens (sculptor), <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li>
+<li>Norden, J. (quoted), <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_O" name="IX_O"></a>O</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Odo, Bishop, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li>
+<li>Offa of Mercia, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
+<li>Ogard, Andrew, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li>
+<li>Oldhall, Sir J., <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li>
+<li>Oudeby, John (brass), <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+<li>Overbury (brass), <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li>
+<li>Owen, John, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Tudor, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_P" name="IX_P"></a>P</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Paine (architect), <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li>
+<li>Palmerston, Lord, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+<li>Parker, Dr., <a href="#Page_12">12</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; family (brass), <a href="#Page_166">166</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Parr family, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Pecok, John and &ldquo;Maud&rdquo; (brass), <a href="#Page_183">183</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Rich. (brass), <a href="#Page_167">167</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Peletot, Sir P. (brass), <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
+<li>Pemberton, Roger (brass), <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li>
+<li>Penn, William, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li>
+<li>Penrice, Sir H., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
+<li>Pepys, Sir Lucas, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Samuel, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Percy, Henry, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li>
+<li>Peri, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li>
+<li>Perient, J. (brass), <a href="#Page_91">91</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; J., junr. (brass), <a href="#Page_92">92</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Peter de Valoignes, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; the Great, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; &ldquo;Wild Boy,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_156">156</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Piers Gaveston, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li>
+<li>&ldquo;Piers Shonkes,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Pietro Cavalini, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
+<li>Piozzi, Mrs., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
+<li>Pitman, Dr., <a href="#Page_148">148</a></li>
+<li>Pitt, William, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li>
+<li><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241"></a>[Pg&nbsp;241]</span>Plowden, W. C. M., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
+<li>Plumbe, M. (brass), <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li>
+<li>Plumer, Col. J., <a href="#Page_101">101</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; family, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; William, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Pope (quoted), <a href="#Page_171">171</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir T., <a href="#Page_109">109</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Portland, Earl, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
+<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Poydres' in the text">Poyidres</a>, R. (brass), <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li>
+<li>Poynard family (brass), <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+<li>Prescott, Sir G. W., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li>
+<li>Prest, Johannes, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li>
+<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Priestly' in the text">Priestley</a>, Wm., <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Prior, Matt. (quoted), <a href="#Page_128">128</a></li>
+<li>Pryor, A. Reginald, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Charity, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Pulter family, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, (brasses) <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
+<li>Pygott, T. (brass), <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li>
+<li>Pyke, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Pym family, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li>
+<li>Pyrry family (brasses), <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_R" name="IX_R"></a>R</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Radcliffe, F. A. D., <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li>
+<li>Randolph, Thos., <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
+<li>Ranelagh, Lady, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li>
+<li>Ransom, W., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Raphael, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li>
+<li>Raven, J. (brass), <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+<li>Ravenscroft family, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+<li>Rawdon, Sir M., <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li>
+<li>Raymond, Lord Justice, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+<li>Read(e) family, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li>
+<li>Reay, Martha, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Reed, Isaac, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+<li>Rembrandt, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li>
+<li>Revett (architect), <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
+<li>Reynes, Elizabeth, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Reynolds, Sir J., <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li>
+<li>Rhodes, Cecil, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+<li>Richard II., <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Duke of York, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Earl of Cambridge, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Richmond, Countess, <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
+<li>Ridley, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li>
+<li>Robert, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_92">92</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; de Olgi, <a href="#Page_224">224</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Sigillo, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Earl of Ewe, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Robins (brass), <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li>
+<li>Robinson, Mrs., <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+<li>Roe, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+<li>Roesia, Dame, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li>
+<li>Roger of Wendover, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; the Monk, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Romanelli (sculptor), <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li>
+<li>&ldquo;Rosamund Gray,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_227">227</a></li>
+<li>Rothschild family, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li>
+<li>Roubeliac (sculptor), <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li>
+<li>Rous, T. B., <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li>
+<li>Rubens, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
+<li>Rumbold, &ldquo;Hannibal,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li>
+<li>Russell family, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
+<li>Ryder, H. C. D., <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li>
+<li>Rysbrack (sculptor), <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_S" name="IX_S"></a>S</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Sabine, Sir J., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li>
+<li>Sadleir family, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir Ralph, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Salisbury family, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li>
+<li>Salmon, Nat., <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a></li>
+<li>Salusbury family, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
+<li>Salvator Rosa, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li>
+<li>Samwell family (brass), <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
+<li>Sandwich, Earl of, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Saraye, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li>
+<li>Saunders, James, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Thos., <a href="#Page_95">95</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Saxony, Duke of, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li>
+<li>Say, Sir W., <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+<li>Sayer, John, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Scales family, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li>
+<li>Scott, John, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir Gilbert, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir W., <a href="#Page_77">77</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Seabrooke family, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li>
+<li>Seddon, J. P., <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+<li>Selina, Countess, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></li>
+<li>Sexi the Dane, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li>
+<li>Shaw, Mr. Norman, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Sherlock, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Shrimpton, Robt., <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li>
+<li>Sidney, Algernon, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li>
+<li>Sigar the Hermit, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li>
+<li>Skelton, John, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>Smith, Abel, <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li>
+<li><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242"></a>[Pg&nbsp;242]</span>Smith-Bosanquet, Major G. R. B., <a href="#Page_80">80</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; W. G., <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Somer (brass), <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li>
+<li>Somers, Lord, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li>
+<li>Southwell, Sir Robt., <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li>
+<li>Spencer, Sir R., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
+<li>Sperehawke, J. (brass), <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
+<li>Spycere, Eliz., <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+<li>Stables, Lt.-Col., <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li>
+<li>Stapleford, H. and D., <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li>
+<li>Stephen, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li>
+<li>Stern, Mrs., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
+<li>Stigand, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+<li>St. Legier family, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
+<li>Stone, Nich., <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
+<li>Stow, John (quoted), <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
+<li>Strathmore, Lord, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li>
+<li>Stratton, John, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Strong, Edward, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li>
+<li>Stuart, Lady A., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
+<li>Stukeley, Dr., <a href="#Page_228">228</a></li>
+<li>Styles, B. H., <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li>
+<li>Sudley, Lord, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_T" name="IX_T"></a>T</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Taberam, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li>
+<li>Tacitus (quoted), <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li>
+<li>Tankerville, G., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
+<li>Taverner family, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li>
+<li>Thomson, James, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
+<li>Thornbury family, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Sir John, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Thornhill, Sir James, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li>
+<li>Thrale, Mrs., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
+<li>Thurtell, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Tillotson, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Tinworth, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+<li>Titian, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Titus, Silas, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="Not found in text">Tonson</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Tooke family, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Wm. (brass), <a href="#Page_94">94</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Torrington, Margaret, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Rich., <a href="#Page_72">72</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Townsend, Chas., <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li>
+<li>Tremouille, Charlotte, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
+<li>Trigg, Henry, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li>
+<li>Turenne, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li>
+<li>Tykering, Rich., <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+<li>Tymms (quoted), <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_U" name="IX_U"></a>U</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Usher, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_V" name="IX_V"></a>V</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Valpy family, <a href="#Page_228">228</a></li>
+<li>Vandyck, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li>
+<li>Van Somer, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li>
+<li>Verulam, Earl, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+<li>Vere, Sir R., <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
+<li>Veronese, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li>
+<li>Villiers family, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li>
+<li>Vynter, John (brass), <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_W" name="IX_W"></a>W</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Walchelin, Bishop, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+<li>Walpole, Horace, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
+<li>Walton, Izaak, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a></li>
+<li>Ward, Dr. Seth, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Mrs. H., <a href="#Page_47">47</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Waren, Rich. (brass), <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li>
+<li>Warham, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Warner, W., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+<li>Warwick, &ldquo;Kingmaker,&rdquo; <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
+<li>Watson, H. C., <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+<li>Watts, Isaac, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Weare, William, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Wentworth, Thos., <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li>
+<li>Whitefield, Geo., <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
+<li>Whithred, King, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Whittingham, Sir R., <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+<li>Wilkie, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li>
+<li>Willet, Dr. A. (brass), <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+<li>William I., <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; III., <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; de Cantilupe, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Earl of Ewe, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Earl of Salisbury, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li>
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; of Malmesbury, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+<li>Willis, Thos., <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li>
+<li>Wilshere family, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></li>
+<li>Wincelfled, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li>
+<li>Wodehouse, R. (brass), <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li>
+<li>Wolsey, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a></li>
+<li>Wolvey, Thos. (brass), <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li>
+<li><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243"></a>[Pg&nbsp;243]</span>Wortham, Hale, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+<li>Wren, Sir C, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li>
+<li>Wright, John (brass), <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+<li>Wyatt (architect), <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li>
+<li>Wykins, John, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+<li>Wyndham, Mrs. E. (brass), <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li>
+<li>Wynne, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+<li>Wyrley, Thos. (brass), <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_Y" name="IX_Y"></a>Y</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Yarrell, Wm., <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Young, Edward, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>
+  <ul class="IX">
+    <li>&mdash;&mdash; Robert, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+</ul>
+<p><a id="IX_Z" name="IX_Z"></a>Z</p>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Zucchero, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="biggap"/>
+<p class="center">
+PRINTED  IN  GREAT  BRITAIN  BY<br />
+JARROLD AND SONS, LTD., NORWICH
+</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<div class="center biggap " >
+<table summary="List of volumes in the 'Little Guides' series">
+  <tr>
+    <td class="little" rowspan="3" style="width: 25%;">PRACTICAL<br />HANDBOOKS</td>
+    <td colspan="2" class="biggest center">THE</td>
+    <td class="little toright" rowspan="3"  style="width: 25%;">DELIGHTFUL<br />GIFT BOOKS</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td colspan="2" class="biggest center">LITTLE GUIDES</td> </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td   colspan="2" class="little center">Pott 8vo, <b>4s.</b> net to <b>7s. 6d.</b> net</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td colspan="4"><p class="center gaplet">THE 59 VOLUMES IN THE SERIES ARE:&mdash;</p></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td colspan="2" style="width: 50%;">
+      Bedfordshire and Huntingdonshire<br />
+Berkshire<br />
+Brittany<br />
+Buckinghamshire<br />
+Cambridge and Colleges<br />
+Cambridgeshire<br />
+Channel Islands<br />
+Cheshire<br />
+Cornwall<br />
+Cumberland and Westmoreland<br />
+Derbyshire<br />
+Devon<br />
+Dorset<br />
+Durham<br />
+English Lakes<br />
+Essex<br />
+Gloucestershire<br />
+Hampshire<br />
+Herefordshire<br />
+Hertfordshire<br />
+Isle of Wight<br />
+Kent<br />
+Kerry<br />
+Lancashire<br />
+Leicestershire and Rutland<br />
+Lincolnshire<br />
+London<br />
+Malvern Country<br />
+      Middlesex<br />
+Monmouthshire<br />
+    </td>
+    <td  colspan="2"  style="width: 50%;">
+
+Norfolk<br />
+Normandy<br />
+Northamptonshire<br />
+Northumberland<br />
+North Wales<br />
+Nottinghamshire<br />
+Oxford and Colleges<br />
+Oxfordshire<br />
+Rome<br />
+St Paul&rsquo;s Cathedral<br />
+Shakespeare&rsquo;s Country<br />
+Shropshire<br />
+Sicily<br />
+Snowdonia<br />
+Somerset<br />
+South Wales<br />
+Staffordshire<br />
+Suffolk<br />
+Surrey<br />
+Sussex<br />
+Temple<br />
+Warwickshire<br />
+Westminster Abbey<br />
+Wiltshire<br />
+Worcestershire<br />
+Yorkshire East Riding<br />
+Yorkshire North Riding<br />
+Yorkshire West Riding<br />
+York (<i>in preparation</i>)<br />
+
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <td colspan="4" ><p class="gaplet little center">METHUEN &amp; CO. LTD<br />
+      36 ESSEX STREET LONDON W.C.2</p></td>
+    </tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+
+<hr />
+<h2><a name="THE_LITTLE_GUIDES" id="THE_LITTLE_GUIDES"></a>THE LITTLE GUIDES</h2>
+
+
+<p>The main features of these books are (1) a handy and charming form, (2)
+numerous illustrations from photographs and by well-known artists, (3)
+good plans and maps, (4) an adequate but compact presentation of
+everything that is interesting in the natural features, history,
+arch&aelig;ology, and architecture of the town or district treated.</p>
+
+<p>In those volumes which treat of counties, there is first a general
+description of the country&mdash;its situation, physical features, flora and
+fauna, climate, inhabitants, industries, history and arch&aelig;ology. Then
+follows an account of the chief towns and places of interest in
+alphabetical order.</p>
+
+<p>The books are not guides in the ordinary sense of the word. They do not
+give the usual routes for expeditions, information about hotels, etc.,
+but they contain information which may be sufficient for the ordinary
+tourist of literary tastes, and they form not only practical handbooks,
+but delightful gift books.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Bedfordshire and Huntingdonshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Herbert W. Macklin</span>, M.A.
+With 24 Illustrations from Photographs and 2 Maps. 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Berkshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Brabant</span>. With 24 Illustrations by E. H.
+New and from Photographs, and 3 Maps and 3 Plans. <i>Second Edition.</i> 4s.
+net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Buckinghamshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">E. S. Roscoe</span>. With 28 Illustrations by F.
+D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. <i>Third Edition.</i>
+4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Cambridgeshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 25
+Illustrations from Photographs, 3 Maps and a Plan. 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Cheshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Walter M. Gallichan</span>. With 48 Illustrations by
+Elizabeth Hartley and from Photographs, 2 Maps and a Plan. <i>Second
+Edition.</i> 5s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Cornwall.</b> By <span class="smcap">Arthur L. Salmon</span>. With 26 Illustrations by B. C.
+Boulter and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Cumberland and Westmoreland.</b> By <span class="smcap">Daniel Scott</span>. With 24
+Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps. 6s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Derbyshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 32
+Illustrations by J. Charles Wall and from Photographs, and 2 Maps.
+<i>Third Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Devon.</b> By <span class="smcap">S. Baring-Gould</span>, M.A. With 32 Illustrations and 2
+Maps. <i>Sixth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Dorset.</b> By <span class="smcap">Frank R. Heath</span>. With 33 Illustrations from
+Photographs, 3 Maps and a Plan. <i>Sixth Edition.</i> 5s. 6d. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Durham.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. E. Hodgkin</span>. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs, 3 Maps and 4 Plans. 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Essex.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 32 Illustrations
+from Photographs, and 2 Maps <i>Third Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Gloucestershire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 28
+Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps and 4 Plans. <i>Third Edition.</i>
+4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Hampshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 28
+Illustrations by M. E. Purser and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans.
+<i>Fourth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Herefordshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">G. W. Wade</span>, D.D, and <span class="smcap">J. H. Wade</span>,
+M.A. With 26 Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. 4s.
+net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Hertfordshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Herbert W. Tompkins</span>, F.R.Hist.S. With 26
+Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Second
+Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Kent.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 24 Illustrations
+by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Plans and 2 Maps. <i>Third
+Edition, Revised.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Kerry.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. P. Crane</span>, D.S.O. With 36 Illustrations from
+Photographs and 2 Maps. <i>Second Edition, Revised.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Lancashire.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. H. Cheetham</span>, F.S.A. With 24 Illustrations
+and 2 Maps and 2 Plans. 6s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Leicestershire and Rutland.</b> By <span class="smcap">A. Harvey</span> and <span class="smcap">V. B.
+Crowther-Beynon</span>, M.A., F.S.A. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs, and 2 Maps. 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Lincolnshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 28
+Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Middlesex.</b> By <span class="smcap">John B. Firth</span>. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs and Old Prints, 3 Maps and a Plan. 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Monmouthshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">G. W. Wade</span>, D.D., and <span class="smcap">J. H. Wade</span>,
+M.A. With 32 Illustrations from Photographs, 4 Maps and 4 Plans. 4s.
+net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Norfolk.</b> By <span class="smcap">William A. Dutt</span>. With 30 Illustrations by B. C.
+Boulter and from Photographs, and 3 Maps. <i>Fifth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Northamptonshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Wakeling Dry</span>. With 40 Illustrations from
+Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Third Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Northumberland.</b> By <span class="smcap">Joseph E. Morris</span>, B.A. With 32
+Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 4 Plans. 5s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Nottinghamshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Everard L. Guilford</span>, M.A. With 30
+Illustrations and 3 Maps. 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Oxfordshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Brabant</span>, M.A. With 28 Illustrations by
+Edmund H. New and from Photographs, 3 Maps and a Plan. <i>Third Edition.</i>
+4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Shropshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. E. Auden</span>, M.A., F.R.Hist.S. With 28
+Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Third Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Somerset.</b> By <span class="smcap">G. W. Wade</span>, D.D., and <span class="smcap">J. H. Wade</span>, M.A.
+With 32 Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. <i>Sixth
+Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Staffordshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Charles Masefield</span>. With 32 Illustrations
+from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. <i>Second Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Suffolk.</b> By <span class="smcap">William A. Dutt</span>. With 28 Illustrations by J.
+Wylie, Frank Southgate, R.B.A., and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Third
+Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Surrey.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 29
+Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Fourth
+Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Sussex.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Brabant</span>, M.A. With 24 Illustrations by
+Edmund H. New and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 6 Plans. <i>Sixth Edition.</i>
+4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Wales, North.</b> By <span class="smcap">Alfred T. Story</span>. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Second Edition.</i> 6s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Wales, South.</b> By <span class="smcap">G. W. Wade</span>, D.D., and <span class="smcap">J. H. Wade</span>,
+M.A. With 32 Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps. 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Warwickshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 24
+Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps and 4 Plans. 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Wight, Isle Of.</b> By <span class="smcap">George Clinch</span>, F.S.A.Scot., F.G.S. With
+28 Illustrations by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 3
+Plans. <i>Second Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Wiltshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Frank R. Heath</span>. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Worcestershire.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. T. S. Houghton</span>. With 26 Illustrations,
+2 Maps and 2 Plans, 6s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>York.</b> By <span class="smcap">Joseph E. Morris</span>, B.A. With 8 Illustrations and 15
+Plans (<i>in preparation</i>).</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Yorkshire, East Riding of.</b> By <span class="smcap">Joseph E. Morris</span>, B.A. With 27
+Illustrations by R. J. S. Bertram and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2
+Plans. <i>Second Edition.</i> 5s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Yorkshire, North Riding of.</b> By <span class="smcap">Joseph E. Morris</span>, B.A. With 26
+Illustrations by R. J. S. Bertram and from Photographs, 3 Maps and 7
+Plans. <i>Second Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Yorkshire, West Riding of.</b> By <span class="smcap">Joseph E. Morris</span>, B.A. With 26
+Illustrations, 2 Maps and 7 Plans. <i>Second Edition.</i> 7s. 6d. net.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Cambridge and Its Colleges.</b> By <span class="smcap">A. Hamilton Thompson</span>, M.A.
+With 23 Illustrations by Edmund H. New, and a Map. <i>Fifth Edition.</i> 4s.
+net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Channel Islands, The.</b> By <span class="smcap">Ethel E. Bicknell</span>. With 32
+Illustrations and 5 Maps. 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>English Lakes, The.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Brabant</span>, M.A. With 20
+Illustrations by Edmund H. New, 11 Maps and a Plan. <i>Second Edition.</i>
+6s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>London.</b> By <span class="smcap">George Clinch</span>, F.S.A.Scot., F.G.S. With 32
+Illustrations from Photographs and old Engravings, and a Map. 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Malvern Country, The.</b> By Sir <span class="smcap">Bertram C. A. Windle</span>, D.Sc.,
+F.R.S., F.S.A. With 23 Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from
+Photographs, and a Plan. <i>Third Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Oxford and its Colleges.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Wells</span>, M.A. With 27
+Illustrations by Edmund H. New, 6 Plans and a Map. <i>Twelfth Edition.</i>
+4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>St Paul&rsquo;s Cathedral.</b> By <span class="smcap">George Clinch</span>, F.S.A.Scot., F.G.S.
+With 30 Illustrations by B. Alcock and from Old Prints, and 3 Plans. 4s.
+net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Shakespeare&rsquo;s Country.</b> By Sir <span class="smcap">Bertram C. A. Windle</span>, D.Sc.,
+F.R.S., F.S.A. With 25 Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from
+Photographs, a Map and a Plan. <i>Sixth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Snowdonia.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Brabant</span>, M.A. With 24 Illustrations from
+Photographs, 3 Maps and 3 Plans. 6s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Temple, The.</b> By <span class="smcap">Hugh H. L. Bellot</span>, MA., D.C.L. With 40
+Illustrations by Jenny Wylie and from Photographs, and a Plan. <i>Second
+Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Westminster Abbey.</b> By <span class="smcap">G. E. Troutbeck</span>. With 41 Illustrations
+by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, and a Plan. <i>Second Edition.</i> 4s.
+net.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="center big">FOREIGN</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Brittany.</b> By <span class="smcap">S. Baring-Gould</span>, M.A. With 28 Illustrations by
+Jenny Wylie and from Photographs, and 3 Maps. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Normandy.</b> By <span class="smcap">Cyril Scudamore</span>, M.A. With 40 Illustrations from
+Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Second Edition, Revised.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Rome.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. G. Ellaby</span>. With 38 Illustrations by B. C. Boulter
+and from Photographs, and a Map. 4s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="booklist"><b>Sicily.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. Hamilton Jackson</span>. With 34 Illustrations by the
+Author and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Second Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="center">METHUEN &amp; CO. LTD, 36 ESSEX ST., LONDON, W.C.2</p>
+
+<div class="transnote biggap">
+
+<h3> <a name="corrections" id="corrections"></a>Transcriber&rsquo;s notes:</h3>
+
+<ol>
+<li><a name="corr1" id="corr1"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm1">protusion</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;protrusion&rdquo;</li>
+<li><a name="corr2" id="corr2"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm2">protusion</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;protrusion&rdquo;</li>
+
+<li><a name="corr3" id="corr3"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm3">filixf&oelig;mina</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;filixf&aelig;mina&rdquo;</li>
+
+<li><a name="corr4a" id="corr4a"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm4a">Guillemot</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;guillemot&rdquo;</li>
+<li><a name="corr4b" id="corr4b"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm4b">n&oelig;via</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;n&aelig;via&rdquo;</li>
+
+<li><a name="corr5" id="corr5"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm5">Icene</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;Iceni&rdquo;</li>
+
+<li><a name="corr6" id="corr6"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm6">Wincelfied</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;Wincelfled&rdquo;</li>
+
+<li><a name="corr7" id="corr7"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm7">Aldeberie</a>&rdquo; unclear in original but checked with other sources</li>
+
+<li><a name="corr8" id="corr8"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm8">in</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;is&rdquo;</li>
+
+<li><a name="corr9" id="corr9"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm9">Wymondly</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;Wymondley&rdquo;</li>
+
+<li><a name="corr10" id="corr10"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm10">From</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;from&rdquo;</li>
+
+<li><a name="corr10a" id="corr10a"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm10a">L.&amp;S.W.R.</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;L.&amp;N.W.R.&rdquo;</li>
+
+<li><a name="corr11" id="corr11"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm11">Julian&rsquo;s</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;Julians&rdquo;</li>
+
+<li><a name="corr12" id="corr12"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm12">projectin gentrance</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;projecting entrance&rdquo;</li>
+
+<li><a name="corr13" id="corr13"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm13">Pishobury</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;Pishiobury&rdquo;</li>
+
+<li><a name="corr14" id="corr14"></a>&ldquo;<a href="#cm14">Blakemoor</a>&rdquo; changed to &ldquo;Blakesmoor&rdquo;</li>
+</ol>
+
+<p>
+The following place names have inconsistent spellings:</p>
+<ul>
+<li>Abbot&rsquo;s Langley, Abbots Langley</li>
+<li>Gubblecote, Gubblecot</li>
+<li>Luffenhall, Lufen Hall</li>
+<li>Piccott&rsquo;s End, Piccotts End</li>
+<li>(St.) Ippollitts, Ippollit&rsquo;s, Ippollits</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p><a name="index_corrs" id="index_corrs"></a>Some of the index entries do not correspond exactly to the body of the
+text. The differences are as follows:</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table summary="List of inconsistencies between index and text">
+<tr><th>Index</th><th>Text</th></tr>
+<tr><td>Anorbul                    </td><td>Annabull</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Brakespear                 </td><td>Breakspeare</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Cassivelaunus              </td><td>Cassivellaunus</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Edelwine                   </td><td>Egelwine</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Glamis                     </td><td>Not found in text</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Hollinshed                 </td><td>Hollinshead</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Humphrey, Duke of Gloster  </td><td>Gloucester</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Harvey, Sir Garrett        </td><td>Garratt</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Katharine Tudor            </td><td>Katherine</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Kybeworth                  </td><td>Bybsworth</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Myddleton, Sir Hugh        </td><td>Myddelton</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Poyidres                   </td><td>Poydres</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Priestley                  </td><td>Priestly</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Tonson                     </td><td>Not found in text</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hertfordshire, by Herbert W Tompkins
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HERTFORDSHIRE ***
+
+***** This file should be named 18252-h.htm or 18252-h.zip *****
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+</pre>
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+</body>
+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,8081 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hertfordshire, by Herbert W Tompkins
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Hertfordshire
+
+Author: Herbert W Tompkins
+
+Illustrator: Edmund H. New
+
+Release Date: April 25, 2006 [EBook #18252]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HERTFORDSHIRE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Louise Pryor and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+{Transcriber's note: Some misprints have been corrected, as noted at the
+end of the e-text. All material added by the transcriber is between
+braces {}. Text in bold in the original is surrounded by =equals signs=.}
+
+
+
+
+
+HERTFORDSHIRE
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ST. ALBAN'S ABBEY CHURCH]
+
+
+
+
+  HERTFORDSHIRE
+
+  _By_
+  HERBERT W. TOMPKINS
+  F.R.Hist.S.
+
+  _With Illustrations by_
+  EDMUND H. NEW
+  AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
+  AND TWO MAPS
+
+  "Hearty, homely, loving Hertfordshire"
+                          --CHARLES LAMB
+
+  LONDON
+  METHUEN & CO. LTD.
+  _36 Essex St. Strand_
+
+  _Second Edition, Revised_
+
+
+
+
+  _First Published            March 1903_
+  _Second Edition, Revised          1922_
+
+
+
+
+  TO
+  MY WIFE
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+In the following pages I have endeavoured to give a brief description of
+Hertfordshire on the lines of Mr. F. G. Brabant's book in this series.
+The general features of the county are briefly described in the
+Introduction, in sections approximately corresponding to the sections of
+the volume on Sussex. I have thought it wise, however, to compress the
+Introduction within the briefest limits, in order that, in the
+Gazetteer, I might have space for more adequate treatment than would
+otherwise have been possible.
+
+I have visited a large proportion of the towns, villages and hamlets of
+Hertfordshire, and have, so far as possible, written from personal
+observation.
+
+I desire to thank Mr. John Hopkinson, F.L.S., F.G.S., etc., for his
+kindness in writing the sections on _Climate_ and _Botany_; Mr. A. E.
+Gibbs, F.L.S., F.R.H.S., for his permission to make use of several
+miscellanies from his pen, and Mr. Alfred Bentley of New Barnet for his
+courtesy in placing some photographs from his collection at the disposal
+of Mr. New.
+
+  VERULAM,
+  SOUTHEND-ON-SEA,
+  1903.
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                 PAGE
+
+INTRODUCTION                                                        1
+
+    I SITUATION, EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES                              1
+
+   II PHYSICAL FEATURES                                             2
+
+  III CLIMATE                                                      11
+
+   IV FLORA AND FAUNA                                              15
+
+    V POPULATION                                                   23
+
+   VI COMMUNICATIONS                                               25
+
+  VII INDUSTRIES                                                   28
+
+ VIII HISTORY                                                      31
+
+   IX ANTIQUITIES                                                  33
+
+    X CELEBRATED MEN                                               39
+
+DESCRIPTION OF PLACES IN HERTFORDSHIRE ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY     45
+
+INDEX TO PERSONS                                                  235
+
+
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS
+
+
+THE RAILWAYS OF HERTFORDSHIRE                           _Front Cover_
+
+THE ABBEY CHURCH, ST. ALBANS                           _Frontispiece_
+  (_From a Photograph by the Graphotone Co., Enfield_)
+
+LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS         _To face page_ 2
+  (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_)
+
+ON THE RIVER COLNE                                                  8
+  (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_)
+
+GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING--THE HIGHEST WATER LEVEL IN ENGLAND  10
+  (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_)
+
+THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY                                         47
+  (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_)
+
+ASHRIDGE HOUSE                                                     53
+  (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_)
+
+OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK                                               59
+  (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_)
+
+CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD                                       72
+  (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_)
+
+BISHOP'S STORTFORD                                                 74
+  (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_)
+
+BROXBOURNE                                                         79
+
+CHORLEY WOOD COMMON                                                87
+  (_From a Photo. by the London Stereoscopic & Photo. Co._)
+
+HATFIELD HOUSE                                                    109
+  (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_)
+
+KING JAMES'S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE                         111
+  (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_)
+
+HEMEL HEMPSTEAD                                                   115
+
+HERTFORD                                                          117
+
+HITCHIN                                                           125
+  (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_)
+
+KNEBWORTH PARK                                                    139
+
+OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END                                     146
+  (_From a Photograph by the Author_)
+
+RICKMANSWORTH                                                     170
+  (_From a Photo. by the London Stereoscopic & Photo. Co._)
+
+THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON                                          172
+  (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_)
+
+THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBANS--THE OLDEST INN IN ENGLAND         178
+  (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_)
+
+BACON'S MONUMENT                                                  183
+  (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_)
+
+RUINS OF BACON'S HOUSE                                            184
+  (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_)
+
+ST. ALBAN'S SHRINE                                                192
+  (_From a Photograph by the Graphotone Co., Enfield_)
+
+STEVENAGE CHURCH                                                  204
+  (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_)
+
+WALTHAM CROSS                                                     214
+
+MAP OF HERTFORDSHIRE                                              233
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+I. SITUATION, EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES
+
+Hertfordshire, or Herts, is a county in the S.E. of England. On the S.
+it is bounded by Middlesex; on the S.W. by Buckinghamshire; on the N.W.
+by Bedfordshire; on the N. by Cambridgeshire; on the E. by Essex. Its
+extreme measurement from due E. to W., say from Little Hyde Hall to
+Puttenham, is about 38 miles; from N. to S., from Mobb's Hole at the top
+of Ashwell Common to a point just S. of Totteridge Green, about 30
+miles; but a longer line, 36 miles in length, may be drawn from Mobb's
+Hole to Troy Farm in the S.W. Its boundaries are very irregular; the
+neighbourhood of Long Marston is almost surrounded by Buckinghamshire
+and Bedfordshire, that of Hinxworth by Cambridgeshire and Bedfordshire,
+and that of Barnet by Middlesex. Its extreme points are:--
+
+    N. Lat.  52 deg.  5' (N.)
+    E. Long.  0 deg. 13' (E.)
+    W. Long.  0 deg. 45' (W.)
+    S. Lat.  51 deg. 36' (N.)
+
+Its area is 404,523 acres or 632 square miles. It is one of the
+smallest counties in England, the still smaller counties being Rutland,
+Middlesex, Huntingdon, Bedford and Monmouth. Hertfordshire is one of the
+six home counties.
+
+[Illustration: LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS]
+
+
+II. PHYSICAL FEATURES
+
+Hertfordshire, being an inland county, is naturally devoid of many
+charms to be found in those counties which have a sea-coast. But it has
+beauties of its own, being particularly varied and undulating. Its
+scenery is pleasantly diversified by many woods, which however are
+mostly of but small extent, by swelling cornfields, and by several small
+and winding streams. There is much rich loam in the many little
+valley-bottoms traversed by these streams, and other loams of inferior
+quality are found in abundance on the higher levels of the arable
+districts. The soil in many parts, owing to the preponderance of chalk,
+is specially adapted to the cultivation of wheat. Its trees have
+elicited the admiration of many, particularly its oaks and elms, of
+which colossal specimens are found here and there throughout the county,
+and its beeches, of which the beautiful woods on the Chiltern slopes and
+elsewhere in the W. are largely composed. The hornbeam is almost
+restricted to Essex and Hertfordshire. The woods of Hertfordshire form
+indeed its sweetest attraction in the eyes of many. The districts of
+Rickmansworth, Radlett, Wheathampstead and Breachwood Green, among
+others, are dotted with coppices of ideal loveliness, and larger
+woods such as Batch Wood near St. Albans and Bricket Wood near Watford
+are carpeted with flowers in their season, interspersed with glades, and
+haunted by jays and doves, by ringlets and brimstones. Hazel woods
+abound, and parties of village children busily "a-nutting" in the autumn
+are one of the commonest sights of the county. It abounds, too, in quiet
+park-like spots which are the delight of artists, and contains many
+villages and hamlets picturesquely situated upon slopes and embowered
+among trees. A large proportion of the birds known to English observers
+are found in the county either regularly or as chance visitors, and will
+be treated more fully in a separate section. The many narrow, winding,
+flower-scented lanes are one of the chief beauties of Hertfordshire. The
+eastern part of the county, though, on the whole, less charming to the
+eye than the rest, contains some fine manor houses and interesting old
+parish churches. Its most beautiful part is unquestionably the W., near
+the Buckinghamshire border; its greatest historic interest centres
+around St. Albans, with its wonderful old abbey church now largely
+restored; Berkhampstead, Hertford, Hatfield and Hitchin. The county
+contains rather less than the average of waste or common land; the
+stretches of heath used for grazing purposes only aggregating 1,200
+acres.
+
+Among the finest panoramic views may be mentioned:--
+
+(1) From the hill near Boxmoor Station.
+
+(2) From the village of Wigginton, looking S.
+
+(3) From the high-road between Graveley and Baldock.
+
+(4) From Windmill Hill, Hitchin, looking W.
+
+There were medicinal waters at Barnet, Northaw, Hemel Hempstead and
+Welwyn, but these are now disused. Many other details touching
+physiographical characteristics are mentioned as occasion arises in the
+Alphabetical Gazetteer which follows this Introduction.
+
+The Geology of Hertfordshire must be here summarised in few words. The
+predominant formations are the Cretaceous and the Tertiary.
+
+CRETACEOUS.--Ignoring the Gault, which barely touches the county, this
+formation consists chiefly of Chalk-marl, Lower, Middle and Upper Chalk.
+A series of Chalk Downs, an extension of the Chiltern Hills, stretches,
+roughly speaking, from Tring to Royston, forming by far the most
+prominent natural feature of Hertfordshire. The oldest rocks are in the
+N.W.
+
+_The Chalk Marl_ is superimposed upon the Gault and Upper Greensand
+beds, which are confined to the western portion of the county. Its upper
+layer passes into a sandy limestone, known as Totternhoe stone, which
+has furnished materials for many churches in the shire. Ashwell, Pirton
+and Tring may be named as neighbourhoods where this stratum may be
+traced.
+
+_The Lower Chalk_ is devoid of flints, and rests, in somewhat steeply
+sloping beds, upon the Totternhoe stone. It forms the western slopes of
+the Dunstable Downs, and of the Chiltern Hills. It is fossiliferous, one
+of the commonest of its shells being the Terebratula.
+
+_The Middle Chalk_, of resonant hardness, is laminated, and has at its
+base the Melbourn Rock and at its summit the Chalk Rock. Nodules of
+flint, greenish in appearance, and (rarely) arranged in layers, occur
+sparsely in the Middle Chalk, which may be traced in the neighbourhood
+of Boxmoor, Berkhampstead and Baldock, and also in a few other
+districts.
+
+_The Upper Chalk._--Although, as has been stated, the configuration of
+Hertfordshire is very undulating, we are able to discern a general trend
+in certain districts. Thus, there is a gradual slope to the S. from the
+N.W. and central hills, a slope which comprises the larger part of the
+county. This slope is formed of the Upper Chalk, a formation abounding
+in layers of black flints. The chalk is whiter than that of the lower
+beds, and very much softer. Fossil sponges, sea-urchins, etc., are
+abundant in this formation.
+
+TERTIARY.--Many of the chalk hills of Hertfordshire are strewn with
+outlying more recent deposits which prove that the lower Tertiary beds
+were more extensive in remote ages. The beds of sand and clay, of such
+frequent occurrence in the S.E. districts, contain fossils so distinct
+from those of the Upper Chalk that an immense interval must have elapsed
+before those Tertiary deposits were in turn laid down.
+
+_The Eocene Formation._--The _Thanet Beds_, of light-coloured sands,
+present in some other parts of the London Basin, notably in Kent, are
+wanting in Hertfordshire. There are, however, some widespread deposits
+of loamy sands which may possibly be rearranged material from the Thanet
+Beds.
+
+The lowest Eocene deposits in the county are the _Reading Beds_. These
+rest directly upon the Chalk and have an average thickness of, say, 25
+feet. They may be traced E. to S.W. from the brickfields near Hertford
+to Hatfield Park; thence to the kilns on Watford Heath and at Bushey;
+they may also be traced from Watford to Harefield Park. These beds
+contain flints, usually found close to the Chalk, and consist chiefly of
+mottled clays, sands, and pebble-beds. Fossils are but rarely found.
+From the Woolwich and Reading Beds come those conglomerate masses of
+flint pebbles commonly called Hertfordshire _plum-pudding stone_. These
+have usually a silicious matrix and were often used by the Romans and
+others for making querns for corn-grinding. It is, perhaps, not
+impertinent to mention here the opinion of geologists that during the
+_Eocene Period_ a considerable portion of the land usually spoken of as
+S.E. England was covered by the ocean.
+
+Resting upon the _Reading Beds_ we find that well-known stratum called
+the _London Clay_, which is of bluish hue when dug at any considerable
+depth. It is found in some of the same districts as the _Woolwich_ and
+_Reading Beds_, and from Hertford and Watford it extends to N.E. and
+S.W. respectively until it leaves Hertfordshire. Its direction may be
+approximately traced by a series of hills, none of which are of any
+great height.
+
+_The Drift._--In Hertfordshire, as elsewhere, the strata whose names are
+so familiar to geologists do not form the existing _surface_ of the
+ground. For the origin of this we go back to a comparatively recent
+period, when disintegration was busily working upon the solid rocks, and
+glaciers were moving southwards, leaving stones and much loose _debris_
+in their wake. Rivers, some of which, as in the Harpenden valley, have
+long ceased to run, separated the flints from the chalk, forming a
+gravel which is found in quantities at Harpenden, Wheathampstead and St.
+Albans, and is, indeed, present in all valley-bottoms, even where no
+river now runs. Gravel, together with clays, sand, and alluvial loams,
+forms, for the most part, the actual surface of the county.
+
+_The Rivers_ of Hertfordshire are many, if we include several so small
+as hardly to deserve the name. They are the Ash, Beane, Bulbourne,
+Chess, Colne, Gade, Hiz, Ivel, Lea, Maran, Purwell, Quin, Rhee, Rib,
+Stort and Ver.
+
+1. _The Ash_ rises near Little Hadham, and, passing the village of
+Widford, joins the Lea at Stanstead.
+
+2. _The Beane_, rising in the parish of Cottered, runs to Walkern, where
+it passes close to the church, and flows from thence past Aston and
+Watton, and into the Lea at Hertford.
+
+3. _The Bulbourne_ rises in the parish of Tring, passes N.E. of
+Berkhampstead and S.W. of Hemel Hempstead and unites with the Gade at
+Two Waters.
+
+4. _The Chess_ enters the county from Buckinghamshire at Sarratt Mill,
+and flowing past Loudwater joins the Gade at Rickmansworth. The Valley
+of the Chess is one of the prettiest districts in the shire.
+
+[Illustration: ON THE RIVER COLNE]
+
+5. _The Colne_ rises near Sleap's Hyde, is crossed by the main road from
+Barnet to St. Albans at London Colney, and by the main road from Edgware
+to St. Albans at Colney Street. Thence it passes between Bushey Hall and
+Bushey Lodge, flows through Watford to Rickmansworth where, uniting with
+the Gade and Chess, it enters Middlesex near Stocker's Farm.
+
+6. _The Gade_ rises near Little Gaddesden, skirts Hemel Hempstead Church
+on the W. side, and passing King's Langley and Hunton Bridge, flows
+through Cassiobury Park and joins the Chess and Colne at Rickmansworth.
+
+7. _The Hiz_, rising at Well Head, S.W. of Hitchin, crosses that town,
+joins the Purwell at Grove Mill and leaves the county at Cadwell.
+
+8. _The Ivel_ rises near Baldock, flows to Radwell Mill and shortly
+afterwards enters Bedfordshire.
+
+9. _The Lea_ is the largest river in Hertfordshire. It rises near
+Leagrave (in Bedfordshire) and flows through the county from N.W. to
+S.E. Entering Hertfordshire at Hide Mill, it flows past Wheathampstead,
+Hatfield, Hertford, Ware, and, leaving the county near Waltham Abbey,
+enters the Thames at Blackwall. Its entire length is about 50 miles. The
+waterway known as the _Lea and Stort Navigation_ is navigable to
+Bishop's Stortford.
+
+10. _The Maran_, or _Mimram_, rises in the parish of King's Walden,
+skirts Whitwell on the N., running parallel with the village street, and
+passing through Welwyn and near Tewin enters the Lea at Hertingfordbury.
+
+11. _The Purwell_, or _Pirall_, rises in the parish of Ippollits and
+passing W. of Great Wymondley runs to Purwell Mill, and joins the Hiz at
+Grove Mill.
+
+12. _The Quin_ rises in the neighbourhood of Wyddial, and passing
+Quinbury, unites with the Rib at Braughing.
+
+13. _The Rhee_, rising a little E. of Ashwell, has but a few miles to
+flow before it enters Cambridgeshire.
+
+14. _The Rib_ rises at Corney Bury, flows E. of Buntingford, thence
+turning W. it flows under the bridge at the _Adam and Eve_, runs to
+Westmill, Standon and Thundridge, finally uniting with the Lea at
+Hertford.
+
+15. _The Stort_ enters Hertfordshire from Essex at a point near Cannon
+Wood Mill, and after passing through Bishop's Stortford forms the
+extreme E. boundary of the county for some distance before quitting it
+near Cheshunt.
+
+16. _The Ver_ rises near Flamstead, is crossed by the Dunstable Road,
+N.W. of Redbourn, then recrossed by it. It then skirts St. Albans on the
+S. and joins the Colne near Park Street.
+
+In addition to the cutting of the _Lea and Stort Navigation_ already
+mentioned, there are other artificial waterways:--
+
+_The Aylesbury Canal_ (a branch of the Grand Junction Canal) crosses the
+extreme western neck of the county, from S. of Puttenham to S. of
+Gubblecote.
+
+[Illustration: GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING
+               _The highest water level in England_]
+
+_The Grand Junction Canal_ is largely utilised by barges traversing the
+W. of Hertfordshire. It is conspicuous at Rickmansworth, Boxmoor, and
+Berkhampstead; it enters Bedfordshire near Marsworth Reservoir.
+
+_The New River_ was constructed by Sir Hugh Myddelton, a London
+goldsmith, in 1609-13, and is largely fed by springs at Chadwell near
+Hertford. Its course in Hertfordshire is mostly close to and parallel
+with that of the Lea. The New River caused the financial ruin of its
+projector; one of its shares is now worth a large fortune. The whole
+story of this undertaking is very interesting; but as the New River was
+cut in order to bring water to London that story belongs to a volume on
+Middlesex.
+
+
+III. CLIMATE
+
+The chief elements of climate are temperature and rainfall. A general
+idea of the mean temperature and rainfall of Hertfordshire, both monthly
+and annual, may be gained from an inspection of Bartholomew's _Atlas of
+Meteorology_ (1899). From that work it appears that the mean annual
+temperature of the county, if reduced to sea-level (that is, the
+theoretical mean for its position) would be 50 deg. or a little above it,
+but that the actual mean varies from 46 deg.-48 deg. on the Chiltern Hills to
+48 deg.-50 deg. in the rest and much the greater part of Hertfordshire; also
+that the mean annual rainfall is between 25 and 30 inches, the latter
+amount only being approached towards the Chilterns. Thus altitude is
+seen to have a great effect on both these elements of climate.
+
+Hertfordshire is hilly though not mountainous, a great extent of its
+surface being considerably elevated above sea-level, with a general
+south-easterly inclination; it has a dry soil; is well watered with
+numerous rivers of clear water--already enumerated--chiefly derived from
+springs in the Chalk; is well but not too densely wooded; and its
+atmosphere is not contaminated by manufacturing towns. It thus maintains
+the reputation for salubrity which it gained more than three centuries
+ago, our earliest county historian, Norden, remarking on the "salutarie"
+nature of the "aire".
+
+Observations taken at the following meteorological stations during the
+twelve years 1887 to 1898 have been printed annually in the
+_Transactions of the Hertfordshire Natural History Society_, and a brief
+summary of some of the chief results will here be given.
+
+_Royston_ (London Road): lat. 52 deg. 2' 34'' N.; long. 0 deg. 1' 8'' W.; alt.
+301 feet; observer, the late Hale Wortham, F.R.Met.Soc.
+
+_Berkhampstead_ (Rosebank): lat. 51 deg. 45' 40'' N.; long. 0 deg. 33' 30'' W.;
+alt. 400 feet; observer, Edward Mawley, F.R.Met.Soc.
+
+_St. Albans_ (The Grange): lat. 51 deg. 45' 9'' N.; long. 0 deg. 20' 7'' W.;
+alt. 380 feet; observer, John Hopkinson, Assoc.Inst.C.E.
+
+_Bennington_ (Bennington House): lat. 51 deg. 53' 45'' N.; long. 0 deg. 20' 7''
+W.; alt. 407 feet; observer, Rev. Dr. Parker, F.R.Met.Soc.
+
+_New Barnet_ (Gas Works): lat. 51 deg. 38' 5'' N.; long. 0 deg. 10' 15'' W.;
+alt. 212 feet; observer, T. H. Martin, M.Inst.C.E.
+
+1. _Temperature._--The mean temperature of Hertfordshire, as deduced
+from the above observations, is 48.3 deg.. It has varied from 47.0 deg. in 1887
+to 50.2 deg. in 1898. The mean daily range is 15.9 deg.. It was the least
+(14.2 deg.) in 1888, and the greatest (18.1 deg.) in 1893. The mean temperature
+of the seasons is as follows: spring 46.6 deg., summer 60.2 deg., autumn 49.2 deg.,
+winter 37.2 deg.. The warmest month is July, with a mean temperature of
+61.0 deg.; the coldest is January, with a mean of 36.1 deg.. August is very
+little colder than July. In these two months only has the temperature
+never been below freezing-point (32 deg.). In December and January only has
+it never exceeded 62 deg.. It increases most rapidly during the month of
+May, and decreases most rapidly during September and October.
+
+2. _Humidity._--The relative humidity of the air, that is the amount of
+moisture it contains short of complete saturation which is represented
+by 100, is, at 9 A.M., 82. It has varied from 78 in 1893 to 85
+in 1888 and 1889. The air is much drier in spring and summer (78 and 75)
+than it is in autumn and winter (86 and 89). There is the least amount
+of moisture in the air from April to August (74 to 78), and the greatest
+from November to January (90).
+
+3. _Cloud._--The mean amount of cloud at 9 A.M., from 0 (clear sky) to
+10 (completely overcast), is 6.7. It has varied from 6.0 in 1893 to 7.4
+in 1888. Spring, summer, and autumn are about equally cloudy (6.5 to
+6.6), and winter is considerably more so (7.2). The sky at 9 A.M. is
+brightest in September (6.0) and most cloudy in November and January
+(7.5).
+
+4. _Sunshine._--At Berkhampstead only have records of bright sunshine
+been taken for the whole of the twelve years. Throughout the year the
+sun shines brightly there for nearly four hours a day (3.9). The average
+duration in spring is 5.0, in summer 5.8, in autumn 3.2, and in winter
+1.6. The duration is least in December and greatest in May; the sun
+shining for rather more than an hour a day in December and nearly six
+hours and a half in May. An apparent discrepancy between this and the
+preceding section is due to a bright day often following a cloudy
+morning and _vice versa_.
+
+5. _Wind._--The prevailing direction of the wind, as recorded at
+Berkhampstead, St. Albans and Bennington, is from S.W. (sixty-one days
+in the year) to W. (sixty-two days), and the next most frequent winds
+are N. to N.E. and S. (each about thirty-seven days). The least frequent
+are S.E. (twenty-five days). About forty-four days in the year are
+recorded as calm.
+
+6. _Rainfall._--Twelve years is much too short a period to give a
+trustworthy mean for such a variable element of climate as rainfall, and
+five stations are much too few to deduce an average from for
+Hertfordshire. The average rainfall at a varying number of stations for
+the sixty years 1840 to 1899 (from one station in the first decade of
+this period to twenty stations in the last decade) was 26.15 inches. In
+the driest year (1854) 17.67 inches fell, and in the wettest (1852)
+37.57 inches. Spring has 5.40 inches, summer 6.97, autumn 7.87, and
+winter 5.91. The driest months are February and March, each with a mean
+of 1.65 inch; April is but very little wetter, having 1.69. The wettest
+month is October, with 2.96 inches, and the next is November with 2.56.
+The mean number of days of rain in the year, that is of days on which at
+least 0.01 inch fell, for the thirty years 1870-99, was 167. Autumn and
+winter have each about six more wet days than spring and summer. The
+rainfall is greatly affected by the form of the ground, the southern and
+western hills attracting the rain, which chiefly comes from the S.W., so
+greatly that with a mean annual fall of about 26 inches there is a
+difference of 31/2 inches between that of the river-basin of the Colne on
+the W. and that of the river-basin of the Lea on the E., the former
+having 28 inches and the latter 241/2. The small portion of the
+river-basin of the Great Ouse which is within our area has rather less
+rain than the average for the county.
+
+
+IV. FLORA AND FAUNA
+
+In his _Cybele Britannica_, H. C. Watson divided Britain into eighteen
+botanical provinces of which the Thames and the Ouse occupy the whole of
+the S.E. of England. The greater part of Hertfordshire is in the Thames
+province and a small portion in the N. is in that of the Ouse.
+
+In Pryor's _Flora of Hertfordshire_, published by the Hertfordshire
+Natural History Society in 1887, which should be referred to for full
+information on the botany of the county, these botanical provinces are
+again divided into districts, the Ouse into (1) Cam, (2) Ivel; and the
+Thames into (3) Thame, (4) Colne, (5) Brent, (6) Lea; both the larger
+provinces and the smaller districts thus being founded on the natural
+divisions of a country, drainage areas or catchment basins.
+
+In the following brief notes a few of the rarer or more interesting
+flowering plants of each district are enumerated.
+
+1. _The Cam._--This is the most northern district. It is almost entirely
+on the Chalk and is very bare of trees. The few plants which are
+restricted to it are very rare. A meadow-rue, _Thalictrum Jacquinianum_,
+and the cat's foot (_Antennaria dioica_) occur only on Royston and
+Therfield Heaths; _Alisma ranunculoides_ and _Potamogeton coloratus_
+only on Ashwell Common; and of the great burnet (_Poterium officinale_)
+the sole record is that of a plant gathered near Ashwell in 1840.
+
+2. _The Ivel._--This district is S.W. of that of the Cam, and the Chalk
+Downs of that district are continued through it. Its rarer plants are
+_Melampyrum arvense_, which occurs only in one spot S. of Ashwell;
+_Smyrnium olusatrum_, which has been found near Baldock and Pirton; and
+_Silene conica_, which was found near Hitchin in 1875. The white
+helleborine (_Cephalanthera pallens_), the dwarf orchis (_Orchis
+ustulata_), and the musk orchis (_Herminium monorchis_) occur on the
+Chalk Downs.
+
+3. _The Thame._--A very small tongue-like protrusion[a] of the extreme
+W. of the county, in which are the Tring Reservoirs. Two of the species
+confined to the district, _Typha angustifolia_ and _Potamogeton
+Friesii_, are water-plants which occur only in these reservoirs or in
+the canals which they supply. A rare poplar, _Populus canescens_, grows
+by the Wilstone reservoir, and the man-orchis (_Aceras anthropophora_)
+on terraces cut in the Chalk near Tring.
+
+4. _The Colne._--A large district, comprising almost the whole of the
+western portion of the county. _Diplotaxis tenuefolia_, _Silene nutans_,
+and _Hieracium murorum_ grow only on old walls in St. Albans. Colney
+Heath is our only habitat for a very rare loosestrife, _Lythrum
+hyssopyfolium_, and also for _Teesdalia nudicaulis_, while there is but
+one other locality, a different one in each case, for four of its
+plants, _Radiola linoides_, _Centunculus minimus_, _Cuscuta epithymum_,
+and _Potamogeton acutifolius_. The pasque-flower (_Anemone pulsatilla_)
+grows abundantly on the Chalk slopes near Aldbury. The rarer orchids of
+the district are the bog-orchis (_Malaxis paludosa_), the narrow-leaved
+helleborine (_Cephalanthera ensifolia_), and the butterfly orchis
+(_Habenaria bifolia_).
+
+5. _The Brent._--The smallest district, a protrusion[b] of the county in
+the S. entirely on the London Clay, and chiefly interesting owing to the
+presence of Totteridge Green and its ponds. In these ponds grow the
+great spearwort (_Ranunculus lingua_) and the sweet-flag (_Acorus
+calamus_), the former, however, not being indigenous. The star-fruit
+(_Damasonium stellatum_) formerly grew on Totteridge Green, and
+_Chenopodium glaucum_ at Totteridge, but neither has lately been seen.
+
+6. _The Lea._--The largest district, comprising the whole of the E. of
+the county. The London rocket (_Sisymbrium irio_) occurs only in the old
+towns of Hertford and Ware; the true oxlip (_Primula elatior_) near the
+head of the River Stort; a very rare broom-rape, _Orobanche caerulea_, at
+Hoddesdon, where it is parasitic on the milfoil; and an almost equally
+rare bedstraw, _Galium anglicum_, on an old wall of Brocket Park. A rare
+trefoil, _Trifolium glomeratum_, is known only at Easneye near Ware; and
+Hatfield Park is our only locality for the water-soldier (_Stratiotes
+aloides_) except where it has evidently been planted. Two species,
+usually of rare occurrence, _Polygonum dumetorum_ and _Apera
+spica-venta_, are frequent in the district.
+
+The indigenous flowering plants of Hertfordshire number 893 species, 679
+being Dicotyledons and 214 Monocotyledons. If to these be added 199
+aliens, etc., the total number of species recorded is brought up to
+1,092. The flora is essentially of a southern type, the northern species
+being few in number. Owing to the dry soil, xerophiles largely prevail
+over hygrophiles.
+
+_The Ferns_ and their allies the horsetails and clubmosses are not well
+represented, both the soil and the air of the county being too dry for
+them. Another cause for the present scarcity of ferns is the proximity
+of Hertfordshire to London, for they have been uprooted and taken there
+for sale in cart-loads. We have twenty-four species of ferns and
+fern-allies, but not one really rare. The principal varieties are
+_Scolopendrium vulgare_, var. _multifidum_; _Athyrium filixfaemina_[c],
+var. _convexum_; and _Polypodium vulgare_, var. _serratum_. _Equisetum
+silvaticum_ is our rarest horsetail; and our only clubmoss is
+_Lycopodium clavatum_.
+
+_The Mosses_ are much better represented than the ferns, 175 species
+having been recorded. The bog-mosses are represented by six
+species--_Sphagnum intermedium_, _cuspidatum_, _subsecundum,
+acutifolium_, _squarrosum_, and _cymbifolium_. _Tetraphis pellucida_
+occurs in Sherrard's Park Wood, and _Polytrichum urnigerum_ in Hitch
+Wood. _Seligeria pusilla_ has been found in an old chalk-pit in Brocket
+Park, and _S. paucifolia_ on chalk nodules in the Tunnel Woods near
+Watford. _Campylopus pyriforme_ occurs in Berry Grove Wood, Aldenham,
+and _C. flexuosus_ in Dawley's Wood, Tewin.
+
+Of _the Liverworts_ (_Hepaticae_) forty-four species are known to occur;
+and the Stoneworts (_Characeae_) are represented by seven species--two of
+_Chara_, two of _Tolypella_, and three of _Nitella_.
+
+_The Algae_ have been pretty fully investigated, especially the
+_Diatomaceae_, of the 252 species of Algae known to occur in the county,
+156 belonging to that interesting family of microscopic plants. As an
+illustration of their minute size it may be mentioned that a single drop
+of water from the saucer of a flower-pot at Hertford, mounted as a
+microscopic slide, was found to contain 200,000 separate frustules of
+_Achnanthes subsessilis_, and it was estimated that these occupied only
+one twenty-fifth part of the drop. Both species of _Chlamidococcus_ (the
+old genus _Protococcus_), _C. pluvialis_ and _C. nivalis_ occur; and
+the pretty _Volvox globator_ has frequently been found.
+
+Of _the Lichens_ much less is known, only sixty-seven species having
+been recorded. The most noteworthy are _Calicium melanophaeum_, found on
+fir-trees in Bricket Wood; _Peltigera polydactyla_, on moss-covered
+ground in Oxhey Woods, Watford; _Lecanora phlogina_, in the Tunnel
+Woods, Watford; and _Pertusaria globulifera_, on trees in the same woods
+and also in Bricket Wood. As woods in the vicinity of Hertford and of
+Watford only have been searched for lichens, our list ought to be
+largely increased by investigation in other parts of the county.
+
+Of _the Fungi_ our chief knowledge is derived from lists of species
+collected at Fungus Forays of the Hertfordshire Natural History Society
+and from records of the Mycetozoa by Mr. James Saunders. The number of
+species recorded for the county is 735, of which fifty-eight are
+"myxies". Of the Hymenomycetes, or mushroom-like fungi, some very
+noteworthy finds have been made, nearly all at Forays of the county
+society. They include two species new to Britain, _viz._, _Agaricus
+(Nolania) nigripes_, found in Aldenham Woods, Watford, and _Ag.
+(Hypholoma) violacea-ater_, in Gorhambury Park, St. Albans (by the
+present writer). Hertfordshire has also furnished the second British
+records for _Ag. (Lepiota) gliodermus_ (Broxbourne Woods), _Ag.
+(Leptonia) euochrous_ (Ashridge Woods), _Ag. (Psathyrella) aratus_
+(Sherrard's Park, Welwyn), and _Paxillus Alexandri_ (Hatfield Park),
+this species having first been recorded from Hatfield Park, Essex; and
+the second and third British record for _Agaricus (Clytocybe) Sadleri_
+(Ashridge Park and Cassiobury Park). The very rare _Strombilomyces
+strombilaceus_ has been found in Grove Park, Watford, and the still
+rarer _Peziza luteo-nitens_ on the Chalk slopes between Aldbury and
+Ashridge Park. Lastly it may be mentioned that Mr. Saunders added the
+"myxie" _Physarum citrinum_ to the British fungus-flora from specimens
+found by him at Caddington and Welwyn.
+
+_The Birds_ of Hertfordshire have been carefully observed, and the
+appearance of rare visitors has been duly recorded. At a lecture
+delivered at St. Albans in 1902, Mr. Alan F. Crossman, F.L.S., F.Z.S.,
+stated that 212 species had been known to visit the county, and
+mentioned, _inter alia_, that the kingfisher is more numerous in
+Hertfordshire than formerly, that the heron nested in the county for the
+first time in 1901, and that the appearance of the bearded titmouse had
+been noticed on but three occasions. During the last forty years the
+following birds, among others, have been noticed as occasional
+visitants: the storm-petrel (_Procellaria pelagica_), golden oriole
+(_Oriolus galbula_), whooper-swan (_Cygnus musicus_), snow-bunting
+(_Plectrophanes nivalis_), greater spotted woodpecker (_Picus major_),
+black tern (_Hydrochelidon nigra_), great northern diver (_Colymbus
+glacialis_), herring-gull (_Larus argentatus_), cormorant
+(_Phalacrocorax carbo_), tufted duck (_Fuligula cristata_), hoopoe
+(_Upopa epops_), crossbill (_Loxia curvirostra_), sheldrake (_Tadorna
+cornuta_), Guillemot[d] (_Lornvia troile_), Pallas' sandgrouse (_Syrrhaptes
+paradoxus_), rock thrush (_Monticola saxatilis_), black redstart
+(_Ruticilla titys_), Dartford warbler (_Silvia undata_), grasshopper
+warbler (_Locustella naevia_)[d], waxwing (_Ampelis garrulus_), twite
+(_Linota flavirostris_), hen harrier (_Circus cyaneus_), buzzard (_Buteo
+vulgaris_), redshank (_Totanus calidris_), greenshank (_Totanus
+cunescens_) and the little auk (_Mergulus alle_).
+
+The lapwing is thought to be increasing in numbers; the writer
+frequently observed considerable flocks during his recent rambles in the
+county. Finches are perhaps as numerous in Hertfordshire as in any other
+county of equal size; the large flocks of hen chaffinches that haunt the
+farmyards in winter being quite a notable feature. The goldfinch, it is
+to be feared, is rapidly becoming scarcer; as are also the jay, the
+woodcock and other birds much more numerous a few years back. Fieldfares
+and redwings visit the county in great numbers from the N. during the
+winter; one morning in the winter of 1886 the writer saw many thousands
+of fieldfares pass over St. Albans from the direction of Luton. The
+redwing, being largely insectivorous, is often picked up dead in the
+fields when the frost is unusually severe and food proportionally
+difficult to obtain.
+
+The presence of many woods and small streams attracts a good proportion
+of the smaller English migrants; the nightingale and the cuckoo are
+heard almost throughout the county. Moorhens, coots and dabchicks are
+abundant; the reed-sparrow is heard only in a few districts. Titmice,
+great, blue and long-tailed, are well distributed.
+
+
+V. POPULATION
+
+Comparatively little peculiar to the county is known of the early
+inhabitants of Hertfordshire. They seem from the earliest times to have
+been scattered over the county in many small groups, rather than to have
+concentrated at a few centres. Singularly enough, this almost uniform
+dispersion of population is still largely maintained, for, unlike so
+many other counties, Hertfordshire has not within its borders a single
+large town. The larger among them, _i.e._, Watford, St. Albans, Hitchin,
+Hertford and Bishop's Stortford, are not collectively equal in
+population to even such towns as Bolton, Halifax or Croydon. Another
+feature to be noted is that, owing to the county's proximity to London,
+it is now the home of persons of many nations and tongues, and only in
+the smaller villages between the railroads are there left any traits of
+local character or peculiarities of idiom. It is hardly necessary to say
+that this conglomeration of peoples is common to all the home counties,
+though mostly so, as I venture to think, in Hertfordshire and Surrey.
+The Essex peasant is still strongly differentiated from his neighbours.
+
+Grose, writing towards the end of the eighteenth century, stated that
+the population of Hertfordshire was 95,000. They must have been well
+dispersed, for he tells us that the county contained at that period 949
+villages; by the word "village," however, he seems to mean any separate
+community, including small hamlets. Some interesting figures are to be
+found in Tymms's _Compendium of the History of the Home Circuit_. He
+states that in 1821 the county contained 129,714 inhabitants, comprising
+26,170 families and living in 23,687 houses. Of these families no fewer
+than 13,485 were engaged in agriculture. From the same source I quote
+the following figures relating to the year 1821:--
+
+                           Houses.   Inhabitants.
+    Hemel Hempstead         1,012       5,193
+    Watford                   940       4,713
+    Hitchin                   915       4,486
+    St. Albans                735       4,472
+    Cheshunt                  847       4,376
+    Hertford                  656       4,265
+
+In 1881 the population of the county was 203,069; in 1891 it had
+increased by about one-eleventh to 220,162; in 1921 it was 333,236.
+
+In the days of William I. the whole of the possessions and estates of
+Hertfordshire belonged to the King and forty-four persons who shared his
+favour, amongst whom may be mentioned the Archbishop of Canterbury, the
+Bishops of London, Winchester, Chester, Bayeux and Liseux, and the
+Abbots of Westminster, Ely, St. Albans, Charteris and Ramsey.
+
+To go as far back as the Heptarchy, we find the land mostly owned by
+Mercians, East Saxons and by the Kings of Kent, and thus there gradually
+sprang up that "Middle English" population which for so long formed a
+large proportion of the inhabitants of Hertfordshire, Middlesex and Essex.
+How thoroughly such persons separated into small communities and settled
+down in every part of the county may be ascertained by the many "buries"
+found at a little distance from the town or village--Redbourn-bury,
+Ardeley-bury, Bayford-bury, Langley-bury, Harpenden-bury, etc.
+
+
+VI. COMMUNICATIONS
+
+1. _Roads._--Hertfordshire, as one of the home-counties, is crossed by
+many fine roads from the N.E., E. and N.W., as they gradually converge
+towards their common goal--London. Among them may be mentioned the Old
+North Road, from Royston through Buntingford and Ware to Waltham Cross;
+the Great North Road from Baldock through Stevenage, Welwyn and Hatfield
+to Barnet; and the Dunstable Road through Market Street, Redbourn and
+St. Albans, which meets the last-mentioned road at Barnet.[1] We may
+contrast these roads at the present day with the rough paths infested
+with robbers existing in the days when the country between Barnet and
+St. Albans was little better than a continuous, tangled forest; or even
+with the same roads in the days when Evelyn and Pepys frequently rode
+along them--and found them exceedingly bad. The cyclist wishing to ride
+northwards through Hertfordshire has comparatively stiff hills to mount
+at Elstree, High Barnet, Ridge, near South Mimms, and at St. Albans. He
+should also beware of the descent into Wheathampstead, of the dip
+between Bushey and Watford, and of the gritty roadways in the
+neighbourhood of Baldock. Most of the roads are well kept, particularly
+since they have been cared for by the County Council, and the
+traveller's book at the inn usually contains fewer anathemas touching
+the state of the highways than in some other counties which might be
+named.
+
+[Footnote 1: There has been much dispute as to the exact trend of the
+"Great North Road". After careful inquiry I believe that the above
+paragraph states the case correctly. Much misunderstanding has doubtless
+arisen by confounding the "Old" with the "Great" North Road.]
+
+_Railways._--Few counties in England are so well served with railroad
+communications; the London and North Western, Midland, Great Northern
+and Great Eastern running well across its face.
+
+_The London and North Western_ enters the county 1/2 mile N.W. of Pinner,
+and has stations on its main route at Bushey, Watford, King's Langley,
+Boxmoor, Berkhampstead and Tring. It crosses the Bedfordshire border
+near Ivinghoe. From Watford it has a branch to Rickmansworth; and to
+Bricket Wood, Park Street and St. Albans; it has also a station at
+Marston Gate, on its branch line to Aylesbury.
+
+_The Midland_ enters the county during its passage through the Elstree
+tunnel and runs nearly due N., having stations at Elstree, Radlett, St.
+Albans and Harpenden. It has also a branch with stations at Hemel
+Hempstead and Redbourn.
+
+_The Great Northern_ main line crosses a small tongue of the county upon
+which it has stations at Oakleigh Park and New Barnet. It then traverses
+the Hadley Wood district of Middlesex, entering Hertfordshire again at
+Warren Gate, and has stations at Hatfield, Welwyn, Knebworth, Stevenage
+and Hitchin. From Hatfield it has three branches: (1) to Smallford and
+St. Albans; (2) to Ayot, Wheathampstead and Harpenden; (3) to Cole
+Green, Hertingfordbury and Hertford. At Hitchin it has a branch to
+Baldock, Ashwell and Royston.
+
+_The Great Eastern_ enters the county at Waltham Cross and skirts the
+whole of the S.E. quarter, running on Essex soil from near the Rye House
+almost to Sawbridgeworth. It has stations in Hertfordshire at Waltham
+Cross, Cheshunt, Broxbourne, Sawbridgeworth and Bishop's Stortford. It
+enters Essex again near the last-named station. It has also important
+branches, (1) from Broxbourne to Rye House, St. Margaret's, Ware, and
+Hertford; (2) from St. Margaret's to Mardock, Widford, Hadham, Standon,
+Braughing, West Mill and Buntingford.
+
+In addition, the Metropolitan Railway has an extension which crosses the
+S.W. extremity of the county, having stations at Rickmansworth and
+Chorley Wood. The Great Northern Railway has a branch from Finsbury Park
+to High Barnet, with a station at Totteridge.
+
+
+VII. INDUSTRIES
+
+1. _Agriculture._--Charles Lamb used no mere haphazard expression when
+he wrote of Hertfordshire as "that fine corn county". Forty years ago
+the county contained 339,187 acres under arable cultivation, of which
+considerably more than half were utilised for corn; and the proportion
+thus used is still much larger than might be supposed. (In 1897 it
+amounted to about 125,000 acres.) At the same period there were about
+60,000 acres under wheat alone; for this grain, of which a large white
+variety is much cultivated, the county has long been famous. To this
+circumstance the village of Wheathampstead is indebted for its name.
+Barley and oats are also staple crops. The first Swede turnips ever
+produced in England were grown on a farm near Berkhampstead. Watercress
+is extensively cultivated, enormous quantities being sent into London
+from St. Albans, Hemel Hempstead, Berkhampstead, Welwyn and many other
+districts. Much manure is brought to the farms from the London stables,
+and by its aid large second crops of vegetables are frequently obtained.
+Clover, turnips and tares may be mentioned among other crops
+prominently cultivated. Fruit is also sent to London, particularly from
+the district lying between Tring, Watford and St. Albans, but none of
+the orchards are large.
+
+The number of pigs reared in the county is--or was quite
+recently--rather above the average (per 100 acres under cultivation) for
+all England; the number of cattle rather below, and of sheep much below,
+this average.
+
+2. _Manufactures_ are fairly numerous.
+
+(_a_) _Straw Plait_ has for over 200 years been extensively made by hand
+for the Luton dealers. The wages earned by peasant girls and women in
+this employment were formerly high; 100 years ago a woman, if dexterous,
+might earn as much as L1 a week, but the increase in machinery and the
+competition from foreign plait has almost destroyed this cottage
+industry in some districts. During the last four decades several large
+straw hat manufactories have been erected in St. Albans, and the trade
+enlarged, although the conditions of production are altered.
+
+(_b_) _Malting_ is still extensively carried on at Ware, which has been
+the centre of the industry for many years; it is said, indeed, to be the
+largest malting town in England. There are nearly 100 malting houses,
+many of them being beside the River Lea, navigable from this town for
+barges W. to Hertford and S. to London. There are extensive _Breweries_
+at St. Albans, Watford, Hertford, High Barnet, Baldock, Hitchin,
+Hatfield, Tring, Berkhampstead, and other places.
+
+(_c_) _Brick Fields_ are worked at Watford, St. Albans, Hemel Hempstead,
+Broxbourne, Bishop's Stortford, Hitchin and elsewhere.
+
+(_d_) _Brushes_ of many kinds are manufactured at St. Albans and
+Berkhampstead.
+
+(_e_) _Hurdles_ are made at Barkway, Croxley Green, Breachwood Green,
+Chorley Wood, Albury, and at one or two other places.
+
+(_f_) _Iron Foundries_ are at Hertford, Ippollitts, Royston, Colne
+Valley (Watford), Hitchin and Puckeridge.
+
+(_g_) _Paper_ is made at Croxley Mills, King's Langley, and Nash Mills.
+
+(_h_) _Silk_ is made at the large mill on the River Ver, St. Albans, and
+at Redbourn.
+
+(_i_) _Photographic plates_, _paper_, etc., are made at Watford, Boreham
+Wood and Barnet.
+
+(_j_) _Lavender Water_ is made at Hitchin, from lavender grown in fields
+close by.
+
+_Gravel_ abounds in many districts, and pits are extensively worked at
+Rickmansworth, Hertford and at Heath, Wheathampstead, Watford and
+Harpenden.
+
+There are _windmills_ at Cromer, Albury, Goff's Oak, Anstey, Arkley,
+Much Hadham, Weston, Tring and Bushey Heath. _Water mills_ are too
+numerous to specify, there being several on many of the small rivers
+named in Section II.
+
+
+VIII. HISTORY
+
+Hertfordshire was formerly a part of Mercia and of Essex. Its share in
+what is usually called "History" can hardly be called great; but many
+interesting details of its story are recorded in the histories of
+Chauncy, Salmon, Clutterbuck, and Cussans. Among smaller works the
+following will be found useful: Cobb's _Berkhampstead_; Gibbs'
+_Historical Records of St. Albans_; Nicholson's _Abbey of St. Albans_;
+Bishop's _Hitchin and Neighbourhood_, and _Bygone Hertfordshire_ by
+various writers.
+
+The story of Hertfordshire may be said to commence with the sack of the
+great Roman city of _Verulamium_ by the followers of Boadicea, Queen of
+the Iceni[e] (A.D. 61). Our knowledge of the event is largely
+drawn from Tacitus, and Dion Cassius, who give revolting details of the
+torture of the inhabitants by the Britons. The martyrdom of St. Alban
+(_circa_ A.D. 304) the Synod of Verulam (429), the second
+destruction of that city by the Saxons towards the end of the sixth
+century and the siege of Hertford by the Danes in 896, when Alfred the
+Great grounded their vessels by cutting the river banks, are some of the
+more prominent episodes of pre-Conquest times. William I., entering the
+county from the direction of Wallingford, met the Saxon nobles in
+council at Berkhampstead immediately before his coronation at
+Westminster. The castles of Hertford and Berkhampstead were captured by
+the revolted barons.
+
+There was a dangerous insurrection of the peasantry in the days of
+Richard II. Three important battles were fought in Hertfordshire, during
+the Wars of the Roses: (1) At St. Albans on 23rd (?) May, 1455; (2) on
+Bernard's Heath, St. Albans, 17th February, 1461; (3) near Chipping
+Barnet, 14th April, 1471; these battles are mentioned more fully in the
+Sections on St. Albans and Barnet.
+
+The residence of the Princess Elizabeth at Ashridge Park and her
+subsequent captivity at Hatfield up to the time of her accession (1558)
+may be here mentioned, but the more casual visits of monarchs are
+referred to as occasion requires.
+
+The county was not the scene of any considerable engagement during the
+great Rebellion; but the Parliamentary troops are held responsible for
+much ecclesiastical sacrilege at St. Albans, Hitchin and elsewhere, and
+it was from Theobalds that Charles I. set out to meet his army in 1642.
+In 1647, when a prisoner in the care of Cornet Joyce, he was taken from
+Leighton Buzzard to Baldock and from thence to Royston. The march of
+Cromwell from Cambridge to St. Albans towards the end of the war is
+recorded rather too literally on the interior of several churches.
+
+Of importance in history was the Rye House Plot (1683), a carefully laid
+but abortive scheme to murder Charles II. and James, Duke of York, on
+their way to London from Newmarket. (See Rye House.)
+
+
+IX. ANTIQUITIES
+
+The antiquities of Hertfordshire have been carefully studied and well
+repay the labour that has been bestowed upon them. A few words under
+several heads will suffice to show that the subject is a large one.
+
+1. _Prehistoric._--_Paleolithic_ man--in whom we are all so interested,
+but of whom we know so little--must have dwelt in Hertfordshire for a
+long period, a period to be measured by centuries rather than by years.
+Perhaps, however, the word "dwelt" is hardly appropriate here; for
+doubtless, for the most part, the rude flint-shaper and skin-clad hunter
+roamed at random over this tract of land wherever necessity led him. It
+is usual to speak of him as a troglodyte, or cave-dweller, but the caves
+of Hertfordshire are, and probably _were_ few, and his life in such a
+district would therefore be more than usually nomadic. As is often the
+case, we find traces of him in the river-valleys more frequently than
+elsewhere, and it is in beds of clay, conjectured to be of lacustrine
+origin, that we find those rudely shapen flint nodules which served him
+for tools. Such implements have been found in the Valley of the Gade by
+Sir John Evans, K.C.B.; in more central neighbourhoods by Mr.
+Worthington G. Smith; and many axes, knives, etc., were discovered only
+a few years ago near Hitchin. Implements of the _Neolithic_ Age are
+naturally more numerous and form in themselves an interesting study in
+the evolution of manual skill. Flint axe-heads, wonderfully polished,
+have been found at Albury, Abbot's Langley, Panshanger and Ware; chipped
+flints of more fragmentary character have been found near St. Albans and
+elsewhere; flint arrow-heads were discovered at Tring Grove nearly 170
+years ago. The great number of natural flints found in the county make
+it very difficult to recognise these archaeological treasures, many of
+which must thus escape detection and be destroyed. Some details of the
+discovery of Prehistoric implements are given in the Gazetteer.
+
+2. _Pre-Roman._--The earliest inhabitants of Hertfordshire in times more
+or less "historic" were of Celtic blood; these, after a settlement of
+considerable duration, were driven out by Belgic invaders, of whom the
+Cassii, or Cateuchlani, seem to have been one of the most powerful
+tribes. The Cassii, who shared at least a part of the district with the
+Trinobantes, were numerous and war-like when Caesar invaded Britain;
+their chief, Cassivellaunus, is believed to have lived near what is now
+St. Albans. He was chosen as leader by the British, and offered stout
+resistance to the Romans, but was driven back and his capital--wherever
+it was--stormed and captured. Earth works, supposed to have been erected
+by these Pre-Roman inhabitants, still remain at Hexton, Ashwell, Great
+Wymondley, Tingley Wood, and elsewhere, but are rapidly disappearing in
+the general obliteration of ancient landmarks. Grymes-dyke, still to be
+traced on Berkhampstead Common, is the most famous; but many others are
+marked in a map prepared by Sir John Evans. Some of these are hardly
+more than conjectural sites; a few will be mentioned in the Gazetteer.
+Bronze Celts of many kinds are in the possession of Mr. W. Ransom,
+F.S.A.; some of these were found at Cumberlow Green. Relics of the
+Bronze Age in the county include two bracelets of gold found at Little
+Amwell; and many narrow hatchets, or palstaves, from the neighbourhood
+of Hitchin.
+
+To the Late Celtic Period belong the imperfect iron sword-blade, in a
+bronze sheath, discovered at Bourne End and now in the British Museum;
+also the two bronze helmets, one from the neighbourhood of Hitchin, and
+one from Tring. At Hitchin, too, was discovered some pottery of the same
+period.
+
+3. _Roman._--Hertfordshire formed a part of the Flavia Caesariensis of
+the Romans--the district E. of the Severn and N. of the Thames. Most
+important of their stations was the municipium at Verulamium (W. of St.
+Albans) of which some fragments of wall yet remain in the neighbourhood
+of the River Ver and the Verulam Woods; here, too, is the site of the
+only Roman theatre known in Britain (of _amphitheatres_ there are many
+remains). There were also stations at Cheshunt (Ceaster), at Braughing
+(ad Fines), at Berkhampstead (Durocobrivis?), at Ashwell, Wilbury Hill,
+etc.; there was a cemetery at Sarratt; a sepulchre at Royston. Roman
+villas have been unearthed at Purwell Mill, Abbots Langley and Boxmoor.
+The Roman coins found in the county would, if brought together, form an
+exceedingly valuable collection. They have been found in considerable
+numbers at St. Albans, Ware, Hoddesdon, Hitchin, Willian, Ashwell,
+Caldecote, Boxmoor, and many other places. Small bronze coins, known as
+_minimi_, have been recently found at St. Albans, and are now in the
+city museum. They date from after the year 345, when the earliest
+specimens of this type were struck, and are conjectured to be copies of
+coins issued under Constantius II. (337-61) and Julian the Apostate
+(361-3). On the obverse is the "Imperial Head"; on the reverse a soldier
+striking with his spear at a man on horseback. The coins, however, are
+assigned by at least one numismatist to a later date. They may have
+issued from a Romano-British mint at Verulamium. The famous Watling
+Street entered the county at Elstree and crossed it by way of St. Albans
+and Redbourn to Dunstable (Beds); the Icknield Way ran N.W. through
+Ickleford, Baldock and Royston; Akeman Street passed through Watford,
+Berkhampstead and Tring; Ermine Street, entering Hertfordshire at
+Waltham, passed through Ware and Braughing to Royston.
+
+4. _Saxon._--A few fragmentary remains at Berkhampstead, Bennington,
+Offley and Hitchin have been thought to mark the sites of the palaces of
+Mercian kings; but genuine Saxon remains are scarcely found except,
+perhaps, among the foundations of a few churches, _e.g._, St. Michael's
+at St. Albans, Standon and Wheathampstead.
+
+Mention must however be made of the story, narrated in _Archaeologia_, of
+the discovery of the sepulchre of St. Amphibalus at a spot near Redbourn
+called the "Hills of the Banners". St. Alban himself appeared to a
+layman in a vision and told him where the saint's bones were to be
+found,--indeed, he is said to have himself gone thither to point out the
+spot. This was during the abbacy of Symon (1167-83). We learn from Roger
+of Wendover that the remains of St. Amphibalus were found lying between
+those of two other men; the bones of seven others were also lying close
+by. Among the relics found with the bones of the saint were two large
+knives, one of which was in his skull. We know that the holy relics were
+deemed worthy of solemn removal to the Abbey of St. Albans; his shrine
+there is mentioned in the Gazetteer.
+
+In the _Antiquary_ (vol. xi.) mention is made of the supposed discovery
+of an Anglo-Saxon burial ground in a field near Sandridge. Many bones
+and some implements were unearthed, and pronounced by local experts to
+date from Saxon times. They were buried again by some ignorant person.
+
+A bronze brooch, discovered at Boxmoor, has been assigned to "the
+latest period of true Anglo-Saxon art". A gold ornament, resembling an
+armlet, was found at the village of Park Street, near St. Albans; it is
+thought to date from A.D. 700-1000.
+
+5. _Churches._--These will be separately mentioned in due order,
+especially St. Albans Abbey, the unique meeting ground of all Styles;
+but a few sentences touching the predominant periods may be permissible
+here:--
+
+_Norman_ work is found in many places; Anstey, Bengeo, Barley, East
+Barnet, Graveley, Hemel Hempstead, Little Hormead, and Ickleford are
+largely of this period, and Norman features are mingled with later work
+at Abbots Langley, Baldock, Weston, Great Munden, Great Wymondley,
+Knebworth, Redbourn, Sarratt, and the churches of SS. Michael and
+Stephen at St. Albans. There are Norman fonts at Broxbourne, Bishop's
+Stortford (found beneath the flooring in 1869) Anstey, Buckland,
+Harpenden, Great Wymondley and Standon.
+
+_Early English_ churches are at Ashwell, Brent Pelham, Digswell,
+Furneaux Pelham, Great Munden (Norman doorway), Knebworth, Royston,
+Stevenage and Wheathampstead. Some of these, _e.g._, Digswell and
+Knebworth, are pleasantly situated and others contain features of great
+interest, but on the whole they can hardly boast of much architectural
+beauty.
+
+_Decorated_ churches are rarely found without prominent transitional
+features, the purest structures dating from that period being those at
+Flamstead, Hatfield, North Mimms, Standon, and Ware. Early Decorated
+portions are noticeable among Norman surroundings at Hemel Hempstead,
+and among Early English at Wheathampstead; Late Decorated is found with
+Perpendicular at Hitchin. Standon is the only W. porch in the county.
+Flamstead and Wheathampstead are the only churches in the county that
+have retained their original vestries, N. of the chancel.
+
+_Perpendicular_ churches are fairly numerous in Hertfordshire. Almost
+purely Perpendicular structures are those at Bishop's Stortford,
+Bennington, Broxbourne, Clothall, Hunsdon, King's Langley, Sandon, St.
+Peters (St. Albans), Tring and Watford. Churches later than
+Perpendicular cannot be mentioned as antiquities.
+
+A characteristic feature of Hertfordshire churches--rare elsewhere--is
+the narrow tapering _fleche_, or leaded spire; a feature almost wholly
+absent is the apse, which is, I believe, present only at Bengeo, Great
+Wymondley, and Amwell.
+
+
+X. CELEBRATED MEN
+
+Comparatively few really famous men have been born in Hertfordshire, but
+very many have resided in the county, or have at least been associated
+with it sufficiently to justify the mention of their names here.
+
+1. _Men of Letters._--Chaucer was clerk of the works at Berkhampstead
+Castle in the time of Richard II.; Matthew Paris, the chronicler, lived
+and wrote in the great Benedictine monastery at St. Albans; Sir John
+Maundeville, once called the "father of English prose," was, according
+to his own narrative, born at St. Albans and, if we may trust an old
+inscription, was buried in the abbey;[2] Dr. Cotton, the poet, lived and
+died in the same town, where the poet Cowper lodged with him at the
+"Collegium Insanorum". Bacon lived at Gorhambury and was buried in the
+neighbouring church of St. Michael. Bulwer Lytton lived and wrote at
+Knebworth, where he was visited by Forster, Dickens and others. George
+Chapman translated much of Homer at Hitchin, and is believed to have
+been born in that town. Young, the author of the _Night Thoughts_, was
+for many years Rector of Welwyn; his son was visited there by Boswell
+and Dr. Johnson. Macaulay was at school at Aspenden. John Scott, the
+Quaker poet, lived at Amwell; Lee, the dramatist, was born at Hatfield.
+Skelton probably stayed at Ashridge just before the Dissolution of the
+Monasteries; Sir Thomas More lived awhile at Gobions, North Mimms.
+Cowper was born at Berkhampstead. The county has been immortalised by
+Walton and Lamb in writings known to all.
+
+[Footnote 2: As most readers are aware, it is now, to say the least,
+gravely questioned whether "Sir John Maundeville" was ever more than a
+name.]
+
+2. _Divines._--Bunyan laboured and preached much in Hitchin and its
+neighbourhood; Baxter preached at Sarratt and elsewhere, and lived
+awhile at Totteridge; Isaac Watts lived for many years at Theobalds near
+Cheshunt; Philip Doddridge was at school at St. Albans. Fox, in his
+_Journal_, mentions visiting Hitchin, Baldock and other places.
+Tillotson was a curate at Cheshunt; Ken was born at Little
+Berkhampstead; Nathaniel Field, a man of prodigious learning, chaplain
+to James I., was born at Hemel Hempstead. William Penn, whom many
+considered a divine indeed, lived with his beautiful wife at Basing
+House, Rickmansworth; Godwin was an Independent minister at Ware. Ridley
+and Bonner were much in the county. Fleetwood, afterwards Bishop of
+Worcester, was Rector of Anstey; Cudworth was Vicar of Ashwell; Warham
+was Rector of Barley; Horsley was Rector of Thorley. The two Sherlocks,
+respectively Master of the Temple and Bishop of London, were Rectors of
+Therfield. Lightfoot, the Great Hebraist, was Rector of Great Munden.
+
+To classify other celebrities connected with the county would require
+almost as many headings as names. Henry Bessemer was born at Charlton
+near Hitchin; Cardinal Wolsey lived at Delamere House, Great Wymondley;
+the munificent Somers lived at North Mimms; Nicholas Breakspeare, who
+became Pope Adrian IV., was born at Abbots Langley; Piers Gaveston was
+much at Berkhampstead and was buried in the priory church at King's
+Langley; Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, lived at Theobalds
+and is buried at Hatfield; Lords Melbourne and Palmerston lived much at
+Brocket Hall, where the latter died; Sir Ralph Sadleir, statesman and
+ambassador to Scotland, who is said to have rallied the English at
+Pinkie, lived at Standon and is buried in the church.
+
+Many noble or illustrious families have resided in Hertfordshire. Some
+of the owners of old manors are mentioned in the Gazetteer; but a few
+prominent families may be here named. The Cecils have been Lords of
+Hatfield since James I. gave the manor to the first Earl of Salisbury in
+exchange for that at Theobalds. The Cowpers have resided at Panshanger
+since the erection of their castellated mansion in the Park a century
+ago by the fifth earl. The Egertons, Dukes and Earls of Bridgewater,
+lived at Ashridge; one of them, Francis, third duke, is known in history
+as "the father of British inland navigation," and another was the
+projector of the famous _Bridgewater Treatises_. The Capells, Earls of
+Essex, have owned the beautiful estate at Cassiobury Park since the
+father of the first earl obtained it by marriage during the reign of
+Charles I. The Rothschild family have an estate at Tring; Lord Ebury is
+the owner of Moor Park; Lord Lytton still owns the grand old house of
+the great novelist at Knebworth, founded nearly 350 years ago. The Earl
+of Cavan has a house at Wheathampstead; Viscount Hampden at Kimpton Hoo;
+Earl Strathmore at St. Paul's Walden Bury; the Earl of Clarenden (Lord
+Lieut. of Herts) at the Grove, Leavesden; Lord Grimthorpe lived at St.
+Albans. Gorhambury, near St. Albans, is the home of the Earl of Verulam.
+Mgr. Robert Hugh Benson lived and wrote many novels at Hare Street
+House, near Buntingford.
+
+
+
+
+DESCRIPTION OF PLACES IN HERTFORDSHIRE ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY
+
+
+Abbreviations of architectural terms:--
+  E.E.  = Early English.
+  Dec.  = Decorated.
+  Perp. = Perpendicular.
+
+ABBOTS LANGLEY (11/2 mile S.E. of King's Langley Station) is a village on
+prettily wooded high ground near the river Gade. It is famous as the
+birthplace of Nicholas Breakspeare, who, having vainly endeavoured to be
+admitted as a monk in the great Benedictine monastery at St. Albans,
+studied at Paris and eventually became Pope Adrian IV. He died in 1158
+at Anagni; tradition states that he was choked with a fly whilst
+drinking. The village probably owes its name, first, to its length,
+"Langley" signifying a long land; second, to the fact that in the days
+of Edward the Confessor it was given to the Abbots of St. Albans by
+Egelwine the Black and Wincelfled[f] his wife. An entry in _Domesday_
+records that there were two mills on this manor, yielding 30s. rent
+yearly, and wood to feed 300 hogs. The Church of St. Lawrence has nave,
+aisles and clerestory; a chancel with S. aisle, and square embattled
+tower. The windows are mostly Perp., but those of the S. aisle are Dec.
+Note (1) the monument to Lord Chief Justice Raymond, died 1732; (2) the
+brasses in nave to Thos. Cogdell and his two wives, 1607, and to Ralph
+Horwode and family, 1478. Late in the reign of Henry VIII. the vicarage
+was rated at L10 per annum. An inscription in the chancel, copied in
+Chauncy, reads "Here lieth Robert Nevil and Elizabeth his wife, which
+Robert deceased the 28th of April in the year of our Lord God 1475. This
+World is but a Vanity, to Day a man, to Morrow none." Prince Charles
+held a Court at Abbots Langley during the Reign of James I.
+
+ALBURY (31/2 miles E. of Braughing Station) is a village near the river
+Ash. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, dates from the fourteenth
+century; it was recently restored. There was an earlier structure so far
+back as the days of Stephen, in whose reign Robert de Sigillo gave the
+profits of the church at _Eldeberei_ to Geoffery, first Treasurer of St.
+Paul's Church, London. An interesting will, dated 4th November, 1589,
+records that Marmaduke Bickerdy, Vicar of Aldebury, gave an acre of land
+in the neighbourhood to provide a sum for distribution among the poor on
+every Good Friday. In the chancel the mutilated effigies of a man and
+woman are said to represent Sir Walter de la Lee and his wife. Sir
+Walter sat in nine Parliaments in the interests of the county--at
+Westminster, Northampton and Cambridge, and was Sheriff of Herts and
+Essex. He died during the reign of Richard II. _Albury Hall_, close by,
+is a fine old mansion, where the "Religeous, Just and Charitable" Sir
+Edward Atkins, Knight, and Baron of the Exchequer, died in 1669. The
+village is usually a quiet spot, with little business, but it is
+pleasantly situated; the proximity of the river and some scattered
+cottages and farms enhance its attractiveness.
+
+_Albury End_ is a small hamlet about 1 mile S.W. of Albury.
+
+[Illustration: THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY]
+
+ALDBURY (11/2 mile E. from Tring Station) is a village on the
+Buckinghamshire border, nestled in a beautiful valley close to Ashridge
+Park (_q.v._). It is the "Clinton Magna" of _Bessie Costrell_, and the
+author of that story, Mrs. Humphrey Ward, lived at _Stocks_, a few
+minutes' walk from the village. On the Tring side Aldbury is sheltered
+by swelling fields and to the E. beech woods cover the hillside, which
+is topped by the "Aldbury Monument," a granite column about 100 feet
+high erected to the memory of Francis, third Duke of Bridgewater, whose
+labours and enterprise for the extension of canals earned for him the
+well-known title "the father of inland navigation". As a village of the
+Old English type Aldbury has perhaps no equal in the county. In the
+centre is the green and pond, under the shadow of an enormous elm; close
+by stand the stocks and whipping-post, recently in excellent
+preservation. The Church of St. John the Baptist is E.E.; it was
+restored in 1867. Visitors should notice the old sundial on a pedestal
+in the churchyard, and the Verney Chapel, which is separated from the
+nave by a screen of stone, and contains a monument to Sir Robert
+Whittingham, who was slain at the battle of Tewkesbury. The church also
+contains memorials of the Hides and Harcourts, families who left several
+charities to the poor of the parish. In the days of Edward the Confessor
+the manor of _Aldeberie_[g] was held by one Alwin, the king's thane. The
+ascent of the wooded slope towards the Bridgewater monument takes the
+visitor through one of the most beautiful districts in the county, and a
+noble prospect stretches before him as he looks back through the beeches
+towards the village in the valley beneath.
+
+ALDENHAM (2 miles S.W. from Radlett Station M.R.) is a village
+pleasantly situated near the river Colne, reached by way of Berry Grove
+at the W. end of the village. The churchyard is locally famous for the
+tombs of a man and woman named Hutchinson, which, singularly enough,
+have been riven apart and almost destroyed by three sycamore trees about
+a century old. The Church of St. John the Baptist is largely Perp. with
+earlier portions, and is worth a visit, if only for the oaken nave-roof,
+believed to date from about 1480, and for the font of Purbeck marble,
+probably 750 years old. An object of greater interest in some eyes is
+the fine parish chest, formed from one massive piece of oak nearly ten
+feet in length, and furnished with iron clamps and hinges of great
+size; there are few finer old parish chests in England. Note also (1)
+the triple sedilia in chancel; (2) the many brasses dating from 1450,
+several of which are to the Cary family; (3) two palimpsest brasses in
+the vestry, one of which bears a portion of a mutilated inscription to
+one Long, an alderman of London, who died in 1536. The church was
+restored in 1882 by Sir A. W. Blomfield, F.S.A. _Aldenham House_,
+property of Lord Aldenham, dates from the days of Charles II., and
+stands in a park of about 300 acres.
+
+_Aldenham Abbey_, once known as Wall Hall, stands close to the parish
+church; it is about a century old, and belongs to the Stuart family.
+
+_Aldwick Farm_ is 1 mile N.E. from Marston Gate Station, L.&N.W.R.
+
+_Allen's Green_, a hamlet 2 miles N.W. from Sawbridgeworth, contains
+little of interest.
+
+_Almshoebury_ (11/2 mile W. of Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is about fifteen
+minutes' walk from the ruins of _Minsden Chapel_ (_q.v._).
+
+AMWELL is a tiny hamlet 1 mile S.W. of Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.
+
+AMWELL, GREAT, a parish and village 11/2 mile S.E. of Ware Station,
+G.E.R., is very prettily situated near the New River, and is known by
+name to many who have never visited the neighbourhood, for the village
+is frequently mentioned in the essays and letters of Charles Lamb. The
+church stands on a wooded slope; near by are the village stocks, the
+tiny island upon which stands a monument to Sir Hugh Myddelton, the
+projector of the New River, and the stone bearing some lines written by
+John Scott, the Quaker. The grotto constructed by the poet may still be
+seen near the railway station at Ware. The church is an architectural
+conglomeration, with several stained windows, one of which was
+contributed by the children of the parish as an Easter offering nearly
+seventy years ago. The structure was restored in 1866. There is a
+piscina in the chancel, and one in the S. wall of the nave; there are
+also two hagioscopes. "The chancel arch," writes Canon Benham, "seems to
+me Anglo-Saxon, and the chancel is a most curious apse." Thomas Warner,
+a friend of Shakespeare, and Isaac Reed, a Shakespearian commentator,
+were both buried here.
+
+_Amwell End_, once at the N.W. extremity of the parish of Great Amwell,
+is now a part of Ware (_q.v._).
+
+_Amwell, Little_ (about 11/2 mile S.W. from Great Amwell), was formerly a
+liberty in the parish of All Saints, Hertford; it has formed a separate
+civil and ecclesiastical parish since 1864. The Church of Holy Trinity
+is E.E. in style; it was erected in 1863. The district is now usually
+called Hertford Heath. An interesting, pleasant ramble may be enjoyed by
+walking from Hertford to Little Amwell, Great Amwell, and thence to
+Ware, or _vice versa_.
+
+ANSTEY (about 41/2 miles N.E. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) has a
+cruciform church of mixed styles: the nave is Dec., the transepts E.E.,
+the S. porch Perp. The tower rests upon four Norman arches; the font
+also is Norman. The church was restored in 1871; many features of
+architectural interest being wisely retained. The recumbent effigy in
+the recess in S. transept is thought to be that of Richard de Anestie,
+who founded the church in the fourteenth century. We learn from
+_Domesday Book_ that at the time of the Great Survey there was "pannage"
+(_i.e._ acorn woods) at _Anestie_ sufficient to feed fifty hogs, and
+that the manor was worth fourteen pounds a year. There was once a castle
+here, built soon after the Conquest, the site of which is supposed to be
+marked by the remains of a moat still to be traced in the grounds of
+_Anstey Hall_. The churchyard is entered by a covered lich-gate.
+
+_Appleby Street_ is a hamlet 3 miles N.W. from Cheshunt Station, S.E.R.,
+and about 2 miles N.W. from the village.
+
+APSLEY END (about 11/2 mile S. from Hemel Hempstead Station, M.R., and 11/4
+mile S.E. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.) is an ecclesiastical parish
+near the river Gade. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, was built in E.
+Dec. style in 1871, and is well furnished and decorated. One of the
+prettiest prospects in the neighbourhood is that from Abbot's Hill, a
+fine private residence, flanked by woods. The Gade and Bulbourne Rivers
+unite, a little N.W. from the village, at a place called _Two Waters_
+(_q.v._).
+
+_Archer's Green_ is on the river Maran, about 1/2 a mile S.E. from Tewin
+Church and 13/4 mile N.W. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. It adjoins
+_Panshanger Park_ (_q.v._).
+
+ARDELEY, otherwise Yardley (6 miles S.W. from Buntingford Station,
+G.E.R.), is a village and parish in a purely agricultural district. It
+is famous through its connection with the Chauncy family, who resided at
+Ardeley Bury for many generations; one of them, Sir Henry Chauncy, was
+the author of a well-known history of Hertfordshire. The family monument
+is outside of the church of St. Lawrence, some existing portions of
+which date from the thirteenth century. The roofs of nave and aisles are
+noticeable for the angels which they bear, of Tudor character; visitors
+should observe, too, the early window in the restored chancel. _Ardeley
+Bury_, in the days of Sir Henry Chauncy, was an Elizabethan manor-house
+dating from about the year 1580, surrounded by a moat; it was almost
+entirely rebuilt of brick in 1815-20, when it became a castellated,
+imposing mansion. The manor of _Erdeley_ was owned by a succession of
+Saxon kings until Athelstan bestowed it upon the church of St. Paul,
+London, as recorded in Dugdale's _Monasticon Anglicanum_; it was of the
+Dean and Chapter that the Chauncys rented their estate. The river Beane
+rises near here. A stroll around Ardeley and Ardeley Bury leads the
+visitor into some of the quietest spots to be found in the county. The
+windmill on the hill above Cromer, near by, is useful as a landmark
+when threading the many winding lanes in the neighbourhood.
+
+ARKLEY (1 mile W. from High Barnet) consists chiefly of a few small
+houses at a spot once called Barnet Common. The view is extensive in
+every direction, the village (strictly speaking the chapelry) lying on
+high ground. The chapel of St. Peter was erected in 1840, the style
+being a variety of Low Gothic; a chancel (E.E.) was added in 1898, and
+has a good groined roof.
+
+ASH, river; see Introduction, Section VI.
+
+_Ashbrook_ consists of a few cottages and a beer-shop, 1 mile N.E. from
+St. Ippollit's village, and midway between Hitchin and Stevenage
+Stations, G.N.R.
+
+[Illustration: ASHRIDGE HOUSE]
+
+ASHRIDGE is in a beautifully undulating district, immediately N. of
+Berkhampstead Common, 1 mile E. from Aldbury Church and about 2 miles E.
+from Tring Station, L.&N.W.R. The present house, the seat of Earl
+Brownlow, stands in a park of about 1,000 acres, well known for the deer
+which are kept there; it was built by the first Earl of Bridgewater, or
+rather by his architect, Wyatt, in 1808-14. It is a huge structure, its
+greatest width being 1,000 feet; conspicuous portions are the turreted
+centre, some good arched doorways and the large Gothic porch. The site
+was formerly occupied by the palace of Edmund Crouchback, Earl of
+Cornwall, and by the monastery which he built, adjoining the palace, for
+the monks of the Order of Bonhommes, an Order which he himself brought
+to this country from France. The earl died here, but his bones were
+subsequently removed to Hailes Abbey in Gloucestershire. The house
+contains some fine pictures, including, in addition to works by modern
+masters, Rubens' "Death of Hippolytus," Luini's "Holy Family" and
+Titian's "Three Caesars". In the chapel is a fine brass to John
+Swynstede, Prebendary of Lincoln, 1395. It was brought here from
+Edlesborough Church.
+
+ASHWELL is a village of considerable size on the Cambridgeshire border.
+The village is 21/2 miles N.W. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R. The parish is
+very ancient, and is believed to have been the site of a British
+settlement and of a Roman station. The former theory is considered
+proved by the existing entrenchments, S.W. from the village, called
+Arbury Banks; the latter theory is supported by the fact that very many
+Roman relics, especially coins, have been discovered in the
+neighbourhood. That it was formerly a place of importance has been
+mentioned in the Introduction (Section V.); it was a town in Norman
+times, and held four fairs each year. The Rhee, a tributary of the Cam,
+rises in this village, at a spot surrounded by ash trees, and to this
+fact the parish is thought to owe its name. When Sir H. Rider Haggard
+was at Ashwell recently he was unable to say much for its agricultural
+prosperity and outlook; but in Chauncy's day the district produced "all
+sorts of excellent Grain, especially Barley, which has greatly
+encouraged the trade of Malting in this Borrough". The same writer
+mentions the stone quarry, from which he tells as that several
+neighbouring churches had been built or repaired. The Church of St. Mary
+the Virgin is mostly E.E. and is conspicuous for its spire-topped
+western tower, 176 feet high, being equal to the length of the church.
+Note (1) the large ambry in the S. aisle, once the lady-chapel, where is
+also a fragmentary reredos; (2) the curious inscriptions on the inner
+side of the tower walls, mostly undecipherable, one of which refers to
+the plague that attacked the town in the fourteenth century; (3) the
+really fine oaken pulpit, dating from the year 1627. There was formerly
+a small monastic house in the town, a cell to Westminster Abbey. From
+the village it is an open, breezy walk N. to Ashwell Common or S.E. to
+Ashwell Field, between the village and the station.
+
+ASPENDEN (1 mile S.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) may be reached
+from the Old North Road by turning to the left before entering
+Buntingford. It is a small, quiet, unimportant village; but much of it
+is picturesque and interesting. Readers will remember that Macaulay was
+at school here, and that it was the birthplace of Seth Ward,
+mathematician and bishop, a contemporary and antagonist of Thomas
+Hobbes. The church is a flint structure,--a conglomeration of many
+styles. Notable features are the Easter sepulchre in the N. wall of
+chancel, the Norman window close to it, the piscina, ambry and credence
+table, discovered during the restoration of the church by Sir A. W.
+Blomfield in 1873. There are also memorial windows to members of the
+Lushington family, and an altar tomb, under a canopy of marble, to "Sir
+Robert Clyfford" (d. 1508), who built the church porch in 1500, and to
+his wife Elizabeth. The tomb bears brass effigies of these worthies,
+which were once in the Church of St. Michael, Cornhill, but were brought
+to Aspenden at the time of the fire of London. The aisle (S.) was built
+by Sir Ralph Jocelyn in 1478. This Sir Ralph was lord of the manor; he
+is remembered in history for his sally against Thomas Nevill, when that
+adventurer attempted to rescue Henry VI. from the Tower. He was twice
+Lord Mayor of London (1464 and 1476). He died in 1478 and was buried at
+Sawbridgeworth.
+
+ASTON (21/4 miles N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) has an ancient
+church restored in 1883. There is E.E. work in parts of nave and
+chancel, but other portions are largely Perp., especially the tower,
+which is embattled. The alabaster reredos and several memorial windows
+are worth notice; nor should visitors overlook the brass at the foot of
+the chancel steps to one John Kent, his wife and ten children. This
+worthy died in 1592; he was a servant of Edward VI., Mary and Elizabeth.
+The village is scattered upon a hill a little W. from the river Beane,
+and dates from Saxon times. The manor was once owned by three men under
+the protection of Archbishop Stigand; afterwards by the Abbot of
+Reading. It fell to the Crown at the Dissolution, like so many other
+properties.
+
+_Aston Bury_ is a fine manor house of red brick, about 3/4 mile S. from
+the village, formerly the property of the Boteler family. The prospect
+from the N. windows is a noble one, the district being varied and
+undulating.
+
+_Aston End_, a hamlet 1 mile N.W. from Aston, may be reached from
+Stevenage Station, G.N.R., about 21/2 miles. There is little here of
+interest, but the neighbourhood is very pleasant and largely
+agricultural.
+
+_Astrope Hamlet_ (1/2 mile E. from Puttenham) is midway between the
+village of Long Marston and the Aylesbury Canal. It is close to the
+Bucks border.
+
+_Astwick Farm_ is 2 miles N.W. from Hatfield Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Attimore Hall_ is 11/2 mile S.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Aubrey Camp_ (3/4 mile S.W. from Redbourn) is conjectured to be the site
+of an early British encampment.
+
+_Austage End_ lies in the parish of King's Walden, in a purely
+agricultural district.
+
+_Ayot Green_ is about 1/2 mile S.E. from and in the parish of Ayot St.
+Peter's (_q.v._).
+
+AYOT ST. LAWRENCE (21/2 miles N.E. from Wheathampstead Station and about
+the same distance N.W. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) has a new and an old
+church. The former is in Ayot Park, and was designed by Revett in a
+classical style. Note (1) the _Eastern_ portico, with colonnade on
+either side; (2) the memorial to Sir Lionel Lyde, Bart. (d. 1791), and
+to the architect of the church (d. 1804). The earlier structure, still
+in ruins near the middle of the village, was Dec. of an early period,
+with several singular features; the tower, however, was Perp. "The
+Windows ... have been adorn'd with curious Pictures, in stained and
+painted Glass, beyond many other Churches." The village has at different
+times been styled Eye, Aiot, Great Aiot, and Ayot St. Lawrence, and was
+a parcel of the property of Harold Godwin. _Ayot House_, standing in a
+beautiful park of 200 acres, was once the property and residence of Sir
+William Parr, brother to Catherine Parr, Queen of Henry VIII. A room in
+an older building in the rear of the present mansion was once, according
+to local tradition, the prison of Catherine Parr. There are shoes at
+Ayot House which belonged to Anne Boleyn and a hat of Henry VIII.
+
+AYOT ST. PETER'S (1/4 mile N. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) lies in a pretty
+district watered by the rivers Maran and Lea. The village is small, but
+has a commodious Parish Room, containing a small library. There was a
+mill here in the time of the Great Survey, the rent of which was three
+shillings and 200 eels from the mill-pool per annum. A church, bearing
+"a short spire erected upon the tower," stood on the hill-top in
+Chauncy's day; in 1751 an octagonal structure of red brick was built by
+the rector (Dr. Freeman) some distance from the village. This church was
+demolished in 1862 and a new one built upon its site; in 1874 this
+was in turn destroyed by lightning, and in 1875 the present church of
+St. Peter, E.E. in style, was erected much nearer to the village. It
+contains a very fine pulpit, carved by Miss Bonham, of Norwood, upon
+which the figures of SS. Alban and Helen are conspicuous among others.
+There are several memorial windows, tastefully designed, one of which,
+to the memory of Mrs. I. A. Robinson, was designed by the architect (J.
+P. Seddon). A delightful stroll may be taken from the village, westwards
+to Wheathampstead or Lamer Park, or northwards to Codicote or Kimpton.
+Nightingales are plentiful in the neighbourhood; the numerous thickets,
+dense and secluded, affording excellent shelter to this shy songster.
+
+_Baas Hill_ is 3/4 mile W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.
+
+_Babb's Green_ (nearly midway between Mardock and Widford Station,
+G.E.R.) is a small hamlet.
+
+_Baker's Grove_ is 11/2 miles S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.
+
+[Illustration: OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK]
+
+BALDOCK, a small town in the northern extremity of the county, lies
+between the chalk hills at the junction of the Great North Road and the
+Roman Icknield Way. The malting industry is still busily pursued,
+although the town is not so exclusively devoted to it as formerly. Very
+fine barley was grown in the district before the reign of Elizabeth, and
+the horse fairs, of which there are several annually, are well attended.
+The township was founded by the Knights Templars, in whose time there
+stood a Lazar-house a little eastwards from the town. The church,
+dating from the fourteenth century, is large, and of considerable
+architectural interest. The chancel and adjoining chapels are Perp. and
+contain sedilia and piscinae; the nave has eight bays and a lofty
+clerestory. The rood-screen is co-extensive with the width of the entire
+church; the octagonal font is of great antiquity (probably not less than
+700 years); there are several brasses, two of which are of the early
+part of the fifteenth century. Note also (1) the defaced slab, with
+Lombardic inscription to Reynaud de Argenthem, (2) the piscina-like
+recess in the N. chapel, (3) the Dec. pillars and arches of nave, (4)
+the fine old chest near rood-screen (N. chapel). Baldock has been the
+recipient of many bequests; existing charities are in the name of Roe,
+Wynne, Pryor, Cooch, Clarkson, Smith, Parker, and a few others, the
+whole aggregating a considerable annual sum. The Wynne Almshouses are in
+the spacious High Street, where are also the fine town hall and fire
+station, erected in 1896-7. Some side streets between the church and
+station are noticeable for the variety of cottage architecture which
+they display.
+
+BARKWAY (4 miles S.E. from Royston station, G.N.R.) was a village of
+some importance in the old coaching days, for it is on the main road
+from Ware to Cambridge. It was partly burnt in 1592. There are many
+quaint houses in the neighbourhood, and one or two inns seem to still
+retain something of the atmosphere of the old regime. Near the village,
+at a spot called Rokey Wood, a small bronze statue of Mars was
+discovered some years ago. It is of Roman workmanship and is now in the
+British Museum. Cyclists riding northwards or eastwards from Barkway
+will find many hills to test their powers; but the air is exceptionally
+good and the district decidedly worth visiting. The church (flint, with
+stone quoins) is Perp. with embattled and pinnacled western tower; it
+was restored in 1861. Several memorials are worth noticing: (1) marble
+sarcophagus, with bust by Rysbrach, to Admiral Sir John Jennings (d.
+1743); (2) brass on N. wall, found in the flooring during restoration,
+to Robert Poynard (d. 1561), his wives Bridget and Joan, and his four
+daughters; (3) monuments to Chester and Clinton families in chancel. The
+once annual Pedlars' Fair has been discontinued; as has also the Tuesday
+market, which dated from the days of Henry III. In Saxon times the
+village was called Bergwant, _i.e._, the way over the hill.
+
+BARLEY, a village on the Essex border, is 2 miles N.E. from Barkway, and
+lies on the same high road. The Church of St. Margaret was restored in
+1872, in fourteenth century Gothic, but the tower, which is Norman,
+still stands. During the restoration some curious jars, of ancient make,
+were found in the chancel walls, but were broken in the efforts to
+dislodge them. There is a brass to Andrew Willet, D.D., rector of the
+parish and author of _Synopsis Papismi_ (d. 1621).
+
+Some interesting data for a book on the antiquities of Barley are
+preserved in the pre-Reformation "Parish Hutch". I may mention the
+"towne house ... tyme out of mynde used and employed for the keeping of
+maides' marriages," and the "Playstoe" or "common playinge place for the
+younge people and other inhabitants of the said towne". This "towne
+house" may still be seen near the church.
+
+_Barleycroft End_ is S.E. from Furneaux Pelham (_q.v._). It almost
+adjoins that village.
+
+BARNET, EAST (1/2 mile from Oakleigh Park Station, G.N.R.) is surrounded
+by Middlesex except to the N.W. where it adjoins New Barnet. The old
+village is situated at the meeting of the roads from High Barnet,
+Southgate and Enfield. The Church of St. Mary the Virgin is very
+interesting; it stands on the hill-top, at a sharp bend in the road,
+about 1/2 mile S. from the village. It is said to have been founded about
+the year 1100 by an abbot of St. Albans; if this date is approximately
+correct this abbot must have been Richard d'Aubeny or de Albini, who
+ruled the great monastery from 1097 to 1119, and in whose day the whole
+manor (including Chipping or High Barnet) belonged to the Abbey of St.
+Albans. The structure is Early Norman, with a western tower of brick,
+through the lower portion of which the church is entered. The N. wall
+is probably the most ancient church wall in this part of the county.
+There is a lich-gate at the N. entrance to the churchyard. A son of
+Bishop Burnet, the historian, was once rector here, and is buried in the
+church. Tradition states that Thomson the poet was tutor to the son of
+Lord Binning when that nobleman lived at the old Manor House, the site
+of which is now a part of the rectory garden. Near the church, too,
+stood once a house in which Lady Arabella Stuart was confined. _Belmont
+House_ (C. A. Hanbury, Esq., D.L., J.P.) marks the site where stood
+Mount Pleasant, once the property of the Belted Will Howard, Warden of
+the Western Marches, referred to in the "Lay of the Last Minstrel".
+_Little Grove_, a house on Cat Hill (Mrs. Stern), stands where stood
+formerly the house of the widow of Sir Richard Fanshawe, Bart.,
+Ambassador to Spain in the reign of Charles I. The whole neighbourhood
+is varied and undulating; the eastern extremity of the parish touched
+the confines of Enfield Chace until late in the eighteenth century.
+
+BARNET, HIGH (formerly "Chipping Barnet" from the market granted by
+Henry II. to the Abbots of St. Albans, which was held every Monday),
+stands on the hill-top about 11 miles N.W. from London, and 9 miles S.E.
+from St. Albans. As stated above, the manor belonged to the Abbots of
+St. Albans, and Chauncy tells a story in this connection which is worth
+repeating: "Anno 18, Edw. I., the Abbot of St. Albans (Roger de Norton,
+24th Abbot) impleaded several Persons for prostrating his Ditch and
+burning his Hedges and Fences in the Night at _Bernet_; Richard
+Tykering, one of the Defendants, said, that because the Abbot enclosed
+his Pasture with Hedge and Ditch, so that he and the Tenants there,
+could not have their common, as their Ancestors were wont to have, they
+did lay open the same. The Abbot answered that they ought not to have
+Common there; but 'twas found by the Jury that the Tenants ought to have
+Common; and Judgment was given against the said Richard Tickering only
+for that he burnt the Hedge." Other squabbles between abbot and peasant
+are referred to in this book, in the section on St. Albans. The Parish
+Church of St. John the Baptist stands at the junction of the roads from
+London, Enfield and St. Albans. It has known many changes. A church
+stood upon the spot so long ago as _circa_ 1250, to which a detached
+tower was added about a century later. The body of this structure was
+almost wholly replaced by a new building, reaching to and including the
+tower, near the end of the abbacy of John de la Moote (1396-1401). The
+present church is the result of the restoration and enlargement under
+the direction of Mr. W. Butterfield, in 1875; it is of flint and worked
+stone, partly Dec. and partly Perp. The old tower was lowered
+sufficiently to form a portion of the nave and a new embattled tower
+was built, now a conspicuous landmark for many miles round. The present
+N. aisle is entirely new. The nave is clerestoried, with eight bays;
+most of the windows are of stained glass. The Ravenscroft mortuary
+chapel, adjoining the S. transept, contains many monuments, the most
+conspicuous being the altar-tomb and recumbent effigy in marble to
+Thomas Ravenscroft (d. 1630), which was formerly in the chancel. Other
+memorials are to James Ravenscroft (d. 1680) who founded and endowed the
+almshouses in Wood Street near by, called _Jesus' Hospital_, and to John
+Ravenscroft (d. 1681). Note (1) the beautifully carved font screen,
+pinnacled and crocketted; (2) the pulpit, adorned with carved figures of
+men famous in English Church history; (3) the four ancient ledgers of
+stone, two in the chapel and two in the tower-basement, all inscribed to
+members of the Ravenscroft family. The church was formerly a
+chapel-of-ease to that at East Barnet. A Roman Catholic church,
+dedicated to SS. Mary the Immaculate and Gregory the Great, stands in
+Union Street: it was built in 1850.
+
+On Barnet Common there was formerly a medicinal spring known widely as
+"Barnet Wells"; its chalybeate waters are referred to in Pepys' _Diary_,
+and more fully praised in _The Perfect Diurnall_ (1652) and _The Barnet
+Well Water_ (1800). These waters were in such repute that one John Owen,
+an alderman of London, provided L1 to be spent yearly in keeping the
+well in fit condition. Barnet Fair, which is held annually early in
+September, is attended by cattle dealers from all parts of England and
+Scotland, and by showmen and adventurers of all kinds. It is certainly
+one of the most famous horse fairs in the country. The ordinary cattle
+market is held each Wednesday.
+
+BATTLE OF BARNET.--Of this engagement, so familiar by name, very little
+is known accurately. Early in the spring of 1471, Edward IV., assisted
+in his schemes by the Duke of Burgundy, quitted Flanders, whither he had
+fled when the Earl of Warwick landed in the S. of England with
+reinforcements from Louis XI.; touched, after a difficult passage, at
+Cromer, where he heard of the resistance organised by Warwick, and
+finally landed at Ravenspurgh on the Humber. Having been joined by
+further followers at Nottingham he entered London on Holy Thursday, the
+Lancastrians offering little resistance. Warwick collected his forces,
+and the two armies met on Easter Sunday on Gladmore Common or Gledsmuir
+Heath, to the N.W. of what is now Hadley Wood. The engagement was
+desperately contested for five or six hours, with such varying success
+that some accounts relate how messengers rode to London during the day
+with the news that Edward was losing the battle. This, as it proved, was
+not the case. Chauncy repeats the old tradition that a fog gathered over
+the battle-field, that the Lancastrians slew one another in the mist
+and confusion, and that this led to the death of Warwick. It is supposed
+that the "King Maker" fell close to the spot now marked by Hadley High
+Stone. This obelisk was erected a little distance off in 1740; but was
+removed nearer to what is now thought the right position. Montacute,
+brother to Warwick, was slain at the same spot.
+
+BARNET, NEW, is a residential extension of High and East Barnet, being
+situated between the two. Indeed, the whole of "Barnet" is now almost
+merged into one; there being houses or shops almost from Hadley High
+Stone to a little S. from Cat Hill. The Station Road is a wide pleasant
+thoroughfare stretching from New Barnet Station, G.N.R., to the main
+road from London to High Barnet. The whole district is excellent ground
+for the student of modern domestic architecture, the examples of diverse
+schools and styles being endless. The stretch of valley between the
+railway and High Barnet, now largely built upon, is a new civil parish
+called Barnet Vale. On a gentle slope in the centre, off Potter's Road,
+stands the new Church of St. Mark, in which services have been held for
+twenty-four years, but which is still incomplete. _Lyonsdown_, an
+ecclesiastical district founded in 1869, is scattered over high ground
+S.W. from the station; it is almost wholly comprised of detached
+residences and is considered exceedingly healthy. There is here a good
+view, overlooking the stretch of hill and dale towards Cockfosters, New
+Southgate, and the Alexandra Palace. The Church of the Holy Trinity,
+erected in 1864, is Dec. and contains fine lancet windows to W. C. M.
+Plowden, killed in Abyssinia. There are N. and S. porches, good of their
+kind, and the apsidal chancel is well designed.
+
+_Barwick Ford_ is on the river Rib, about 21/2 miles N.W. from Hadham and
+3 miles S.W. from Standon Stations, G.E.R.
+
+_Bassett's Green_ (1 mile S.E. from Walkern Church) is a small hamlet
+between Walkern Hall and Walkern Bury. There is no railway station
+nearer than 5 miles, Buntingford, G.E.R., and Stevenage, G.N.R., being
+each about that distance.
+
+_Batchworth_ is a hamlet close to Rickmansworth Station, L.&N.W.R., at
+the N.W. extremity of Moor Park (_q.v._).
+
+_Batchworth Heath_, 11/2 mile S.E. from Rickmansworth, is on the Middlesex
+border.
+
+_Batlers Green_ (3/4 mile from Radlett Church, and 1 mile S.W. from the
+station, M.R.) is in a pretty district, but contains little more than a
+few scattered cottages and farms.
+
+BAYFORD (3 miles S.W. from Hertford) is a parish and village on rising
+ground, near the river Lea. It has a cruciform church, E.E. in design,
+with facings of Kentish rag-stone, erected by W. R. Baker, Esq., in
+1870-1. In the chancel are seven fine lancet windows of stained glass.
+Note also (1) altar tomb and marble effigy to Sir George Knighton (d.
+1612); (2) two palimpsest brasses, one bearing a figure in half-armour
+and the other a figure in plate-armour and ring-mail skirt, of which the
+age is conjectural; (3) the fine lich-gate. In the churchyard lies
+William Yarrell, the great ornithologist (d. at Yarmouth, 1856).
+
+BAYFORDBURY stands in a beautiful park, famous for its fine cedars and
+pines, a little N. from the village. It is the seat of the lord of the
+manor, H. W. Clinton-Baker, Esq., J.P. The house was originally erected
+by an ancestor of the present owner, about 1760. Here are the portraits
+of most of the members of the Kit Cat Club, painted by Sir Godfrey
+Kneller; the MS. of the first book of _Paradise Lost_, and a collection
+of letters of great literary interest, were recently sold to America.
+
+_Bedmond_, or _Bedmont_, together with Sheppeys, forms a large hamlet 1
+mile N. from the village of Abbots Langley, and nearly 2 miles N.E. from
+King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.
+
+_Bedwell Plash_ is a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Stevenage.
+
+_Beeson's End_ is pleasantly situated near the S. extremity of Harpenden
+Common, and about 13/4 mile nearly due E. from Redbourn Station, M.R.
+
+_Bell Bar_, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is near Brookman's
+Park, and about 21/2 miles N. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R.
+(Middlesex).
+
+_Bendish_ lies on high ground, 21/2 miles S.W. from St. Paul's Walden
+(_q.v._). The nearest station is at Luton Hoo (Beds) about 4 miles S.W.
+
+
+BENGEO (3/4 mile N. from Hertford) is a village between the rivers Beane
+and Rib; Ware Park is close by (N.E.). It is now in the borough of
+Hertford. The old church dedicated to St. Leonard, is Early Norman;
+there are very few churches of older foundation in Hertfordshire. It was
+restored at several times between 1884 and 1893. The bell in the wooden
+cote bears date 1636; a small Norman arch divides the nave from the
+chancel; there are lancets and a Perp. window in the apse. The monuments
+are mostly to local gentry. Eric, seventh Baron Reay, is buried in the
+tiny churchyard. The new church, erected on the hillside in 1855, is of
+Kentish rag. There are terra-cotta panels by Tinworth in the reredos.
+The walk from Bengeo to Hertford, past the sandy warren-hills, so
+beautifully clad with fir, larch, etc., with the Lea winding through the
+low meadows on the left, is one of the finest in the county.
+
+BENGEO (Rural) was formerly a part of the same parish as the above. Near
+by, at Chapmore End, is the Hertford County Reformatory for boys.
+
+_Bennett's End_ is the name of two small hamlets, one near Leverstock
+Green (_q.v._) and the other near Hemel Hempstead (_q.v._).
+
+BENNINGTON (41/2 miles N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) was once the
+residence of Mercian kings. The village and neighbourhood are
+picturesque; the roads from Walkern, Hertford and Knebworth meet where
+a tiny triangular green is shaded by fine elms. The river Beane is 1
+mile to the W. The church is at the S. end of the village; it dates from
+the fourteenth century. The nave is wide, with clerestory; the narrow
+chancel has a chapel on the N. side. The tower is embattled, and
+contains a ring of eight bells. There are triple sedilia, and stalls of
+carved oak in the chancel; what was _once_ a holy water basin is in the
+porch. Note also (1) the oaken rood-screen, surmounted by a large cross;
+(2) the memorial to the Caesar family (1622-61); (3) the (supposed) tomb
+of Sir John de Benstede (1432), a baron who sat in Parliament in the
+time of Edward II., as we learn from Dugdale's _Monasticon_; (4) Carved
+oak reredos. Near the churchyard a large house of red brick stands on
+the site of the castle of the Benstedes, in ruins when Chauncy wrote two
+centuries back. Bertulf, King of the Mercians, held a council here in
+850. _Bennington Park_ (11/4 mile E.) is one of three deer parks in
+Hertfordshire which figured in _Domesday Book_.
+
+BERKHAMPSTEAD (Great) an interesting town in the W. of the county, is
+situated on the little river Bulbourne, and is chiefly famous as the
+birthplace of William Cowper, who was born in the rectory on 26th
+November, 1731. The Grammar School was founded by Dr. John Incent in
+1541. The castle, of which there are still ruins close to the L.&N.W.R.,
+dates from before the Domesday Survey. Visitors must not expect to find
+a castle here such as those at Carisbroke or Lewes. The ruins, although
+of considerable extent, are fragmentary, and little more than the plan
+of this stronghold can now be traced. The moats are double to the N.W.,
+but triple elsewhere. Henry II. held a court here; and the castle was at
+times the residence of many monarchs, particularly Edward III. The Black
+Prince was a visitor here during his father's reign. The Church of St.
+Peter, on the N. side of the High Street, is by local authorities
+claimed to be larger than any parish church in the county, saving only
+St. Albans Abbey; but this distinction is also claimed for St. Mary's,
+Hitchin. The original structure was of great antiquity, dating from
+pre-Norman times; but it was wholly rebuilt early in the reign of Henry
+III. There are chantry chapels on either side of each transept; that
+called "St. John's Chantry" dates from about 1350. Among many other
+features of interest note (1) fine groined roof of northern chantries;
+(2) lancet windows in the chancel, containing fourteenth century glass;
+(3) the E. window, a memorial to the poet Cowper; (4) tablet to Ann
+Cowper, the poet's mother; (5) brass to John Raven, Esquire to the Black
+Prince; (6) altar tomb to John Sayer, head cook to Charles II.; (7)
+mosaic reredos; (8) altar tomb and effigies of Richard Torrington (d.
+1356) and Margaret his wife, in N. transept. During the restoration of
+this transept in 1881 a portion of an ancient arch was discovered.
+
+[Illustration: CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD]
+
+The Grand Junction Canal is close to the river Bulbourne, and partly for
+this reason many small industries are pursued in the town, such as the
+making of straw plait, scoops and shovels of various sorts, army
+tent-pegs, etc. The present rectory is on a small hill near the church,
+to the S. of the High Street; it stands on the site of the former house,
+in which Cowper was born, and the old well-house, called "Cowper's
+Well," may still be seen. There is a good library in the Mechanics'
+Institute. The almshouses, for six widows, were founded in 1681, by the
+John Sayer mentioned above. The Kings of Mercia are known to have
+resided and held courts here; King Whithred summoned a council to meet
+at _Berghamstedt_ in 697.
+
+BERKHAMPSTEAD, LITTLE (3 miles S. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.), has
+a stone church erected early in the seventeenth century. It has a wooden
+belfry and spire. The building was restored in 1856-7, but contains
+little of architectural or historical interest. There are, however,
+several memorials, notably the altar table in memory of Bishop Ken, born
+in the parish in 1637. On a hill N.E. from the church stands the tall
+red-brick observatory erected by John Stratton in 1789, in order, as it
+is said, that from its summit he might watch his ships in the Thames.
+The tower has been called "Stratton's Folly".
+
+_Bernard's Heath._ (See St. Albans.)
+
+_Betlow_ is a lordship of Long Marston (_q.v._)
+
+[Illustration: BISHOP'S STORTFORD]
+
+BISHOP'S STORTFORD is in the extreme E. of the county and on the Essex
+border. It is an ancient town, deriving its name from the ford over the
+river Stort, and from the fact that William I. gave the town to Maurice,
+Bishop of London. It is famous for its Grammar School, at which the late
+Cecil Rhodes, a native of the town, was educated. The site of Waytemore
+Castle, built by William I., is on a mound near the road to Hockeril,
+where a low, wide flint wall is partly surrounded by a moat. The church
+of St. Michael on Windhill is Perp.; it was restored in 1859. There was
+a former church on the same site; the present structure dates from say
+1420-40. The nave has six bays; the tower is pinnacled and has a ring of
+ten fine bells. Chauncy's book has an interesting paragraph about this
+church. "Three Gylds and a Chantry were founded in this church; the Gyld
+of St. Mary; the Gyld of St. Michael; and the Gyld of St. John Baptist;
+to which, An. 1476, Elizabeth Spycere gave Legacies, _viz._, to the two
+former 13s. 4d. a piece, to the last 40s. These Saints had their altars,
+and St. Michael his Tabernacle, on which much Cost had been bestowed;
+but the Chantry was founded in the time of Richard III. and the
+Settlement thereof cost much Money." Chancel and nave are separated by a
+screen of carved oak; the font (Norman) was discovered during the
+restoration of the church; there is a piscina in the S. aisle. The
+clerestory was added and the chancel restored in 1884; on the chancel
+floor is a brass to Lady Margaret Denny (d. 1648), "a maid of honour in
+ordinary for five years to Queen Elizabeth of blessed memory". There is
+also a memorial to Sir George Duckett, Bart. (d. 1822), who increased
+the facilities for the navigation of the Stort, which is now navigable
+by barges to the town. A cattle sale is held every Thursday, which is
+market-day. The trade in malt is still very large. We read that in old
+times a cross was erected on each of the four roads leading from the
+town. The main thoroughfares are still in the form of a cross; going
+down Windhill the visitor will find a bridge over the Stort before him,
+and a main street on either side. The town can boast several of the
+finest old inns in Herts.
+
+BOREHAM WOOD (11/4 mile N.E. from Elstree) is a large and rather prettily
+situated hamlet.
+
+_Bourne End_, 1 mile W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R., contains little
+more than an inn, a coffee-room, and a few cottages standing beside the
+Grand Junction Canal.
+
+BOVINGDON (21/2 miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station) is a large village, built
+on the slopes of two hills, the centre of the village being in the
+depression between them. The church dates from the end of the eleventh
+century, but was rebuilt in 1846 in a Gothic style, with pinnacled W.
+tower. Note (1) the effigy of an armoured knight under the tower, dating
+from perhaps the middle of the fourteenth century; (2) brasses to the
+Mayne family (1621-42). Some traces of a Roman encampment and villa are
+shown on inquiry at a spot near the village.
+
+_Bowman's Green_ (1/4 mile N.E. from London Colney and 2 miles S. from
+Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a tiny hamlet near the river Colne and the
+high road from Barnet to St. Albans.
+
+BOXMOOR is a village about 11/2 mile S.W. from Hemel Hempstead. The Grand
+Junction Canal flows between the village and the town. From the station,
+L.&N.W.R., a motor car plies to and from Hemel Hempstead. Many Roman
+remains have been found in the neighbourhood, particularly some remains
+of two Roman villas, and many coins of the period of Diocletian. The
+church, erected in 1874, is E.E. in design, and was planned by Mr.
+Norman Shaw. It has N. and S. aisles and porches. There was an earlier
+structure on the same site. Private residences are increasing so rapidly
+that the place is now almost a suburb of Hemel Hempstead.
+
+_Boydon's Hill_ adjoins the village of Aldenham.
+
+_Bragbury End_ (11/4 mile E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+on the Great North Road.
+
+BRAMFIELD OR BRAINTFIELD (31/2 miles N.W. from Hertford Station, G.N.R.)
+is a parish and village. The church is E.E., standing on the site of an
+earlier edifice; the present tower and spire were built in 1840, and the
+church itself restored in 1870. We learn from Matthew of Westminster
+that Thomas Becket held the living here as his first charge; a pond near
+the church is called "Becket's Pond". _Queen Hoo Hall_, N.W. from the
+village, is now a farmhouse, but was formerly an Elizabethan residence,
+and gave the title to a romance partly written by Sir Walter Scott. The
+neighbourhood is pleasant, and a pretty stroll may be taken either N.E.
+to Woodhall Park or S. to Panshanger Park.
+
+_Brandley Hill_ is 1 mile N.W. from Aston.
+
+BRAUGHING has a station 3/4 mile S.W. from the town, on the Buntingford
+Branch of G.E.R. It is an ancient parish, the "Brachinges" of _Domesday
+Book_, and was a Roman station. The church and few streets of which the
+village consists are very picturesquely scattered on the S.W. slope of a
+hill overlooking the river Quin, at the intersection of the Roman Ermine
+Street and the road from Bishop's Stortford to Baldock. There was
+formerly a market each week, dating from the reign of Stephen; also an
+annual fair, abolished many years ago. The church, close to the
+hand-bridge over the river, is largely Perp., and contains a few
+brasses, none of which are important. It has been partially restored on
+several occasions during the last eighty years, and some of the modern
+workmanship is very good. Note (1) open tracery in carved oak screen;
+(2) oak pulpit; (3) finely carved font of Caen stone; (4) old font
+outside, near the tower. At _Cockhampstead_ (11/2 mile E. from the church)
+was once an Augustinian priory.
+
+_Breachwood Green_ (about 31/2 miles N.E. from Luton Hoo Station, G.N.R.,
+and 1 mile S. from King's Walden Church) is a village on high ground
+rather more than a mile from the Bedfordshire border. Pretty walks may
+be taken S.E. to Bendish or S.W. to Chiltern Green.
+
+BRENT PELHAM (1 mile from Essex border and 5 miles E. from Buntingford)
+is an interesting village, formerly called Burnt Pelham because, as
+tradition states, both village and church were destroyed by fire during
+the reign of Henry I. Traces of the fire existed in the days of Norden
+(_circa_ 1548-1626). The church--near which the old stocks may still be
+seen--is E.E., with the embattled western tower so frequent in Herts. It
+is locally famous for a tomb in the N. wall, said to mark the
+resting-place of one Piers Shonkes, a serpent slayer who lived in the
+time of William I. The tomb bears some allegorical figures, which have
+been the subject of diverse interpretations. _Pelham Hall_ (E. E.
+Barclay, Esq.), "a slight but well contrived House in this Mannor, near
+the Church," was built in 1620 by one Edward Newport. It was once owned
+by the Floyers or Flyers, a family to whose memory there are several
+memorials in the church.
+
+_Brickendon_ is now partly included in the borough of Hertford. There
+are some imposing residences in the neighbourhood.
+
+BRICKET WOOD is almost exactly midway between St. Albans and Watford;
+it consists of some cottages scattered around an extensive wood and
+common, crossed by L.&N.W.R. The station is 1/2 mile from the "wood,"
+which is much frequented by picnic parties, school treats, etc. The
+district is good ground for the field botanist and entomologist.
+
+_Broadfield_ (21/4 miles N.W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet near Cottered,
+on the hill N. from that village. The hall was once a much larger
+structure (engraved in Chauncy, vol. i.); it was in part rebuilt in
+1882, but still retains a portion believed to date from the fifteenth
+century.
+
+_Broadwater_ is a hamlet at the meeting of the roads from Stevenage,
+Hatfield and Hertford. The nearest station is Knebworth (11/4 mile S.).
+
+_Broadway_ (11/2 mile S.E. from Berkhampstead) has a Dec. chapel-of-ease
+to the parish church. It was erected in 1854. A short walk takes one to
+the ruined chapel of St. Mary Magdalen on the Bucks border.
+
+_Bromley_ (11/2 mile S.E. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) is a small hamlet.
+
+_Broomin Green_ (3/4 mile S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+near the railway and 1/2 mile from the Six Hills. (See Stevenage.)
+
+[Illustration: BROXBOURNE CHURCH]
+
+BROXBOURNE, a large village near the river Lea and New River, is a
+favourite fishing resort. The church stands on high ground overlooking
+the mill-leat; it is a fine Perp. structure, dating from early in the
+fifteenth century. The N. chancel-chapel was built by Sir William Say,
+"in honor a ye Trenete the yere of our Lord God 1522"; his tomb is in
+the chancel. The church was restored in 1857; the roof is of fine oak
+panelling; the font, on eight pillars, is probably Early Norman. There
+are brasses to a priest holding a chalice (_circa_ 1470); to another
+priest in robes (_circa_ 1510); to Sir John Borrell, mace bearer to
+Henry VIII. (d. 1521); to Sir John Say (d. 1478), and his wife (d.
+1473). Note also (1) holy water basin near door; (2) marble effigies of
+Sir Henry Cock (d. 1609), and his wife and family; (3) shield of arms in
+centre of nave, with verses in English, bearing date 1630. From the
+church a very picturesque walk may be taken through the village, to
+Hoddesdon, by way of "Admiral's Walk," or beside the Lea past the
+grounds of the Crown Hotel. _Broxbournebury_ (Major G. R. B.
+Smith-Bosanquet, J.P.) is in the beautiful park, 1 mile W., and is a
+large imposing mansion in Jacobean style. In Church Fields and on the
+London Road are large rose-nurseries, producing an immense number of
+roses yearly. The neighbourhood is one of the most pleasant in the
+county.
+
+BUCKLAND (3 miles N. from Buntingford, on the Royston Road) has an E.E.
+church, built by Nicholas de Bokeland in 1348. The piscina at the E. end
+of the S. aisle marks the site of what was formerly the lady-chapel. The
+font is very possibly anterior to the Conquest; it is a roughly hewn
+mass of Barnack stone. The low window in the S. wall of the chancel was
+opened out during some renovations, and is thought to have been
+connected with a confessional, as a coloured figure of the Virgin was
+discovered on the wall. The theory, however, may be dismissed as purely
+mythical. There is a brass to William Langley, a rector of the church
+(d. 1478); a low-relief medallion by Chantrey to William Anthony (d.
+1819), and a brass to one of the Boteler family (1451). The interior was
+restored in 1875; the new W. door, of oak, was added in 1881.
+
+_Buck's Hill_ (2 miles S.W. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a
+pretty hamlet. The nearest parish church is about 11/4 mile N.E. at
+Chipperfield (_q.v._).
+
+BULBOURNE, river. (See Introduction.)
+
+_Bull's Green_ is 21/4 miles N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Bull's Mill_ is 21/2 miles N. from Hertford.
+
+BUNTINGFORD, a small town on the river Rib, on the Royston-Cambridge
+Road, consists chiefly of the long High Street and of a few small
+by-ways, E. by the river side, and W. on the roads to Aspenden and
+Cottered. Standing across the High Street is the cruciform church of St.
+Peter, built in 1614-26 as a chapel-of-ease to Layston (_q.v._). An old
+brass tablet still preserved represents the holding of a Divine service
+in the church before completion. There is also a portrait of Seth Ward
+(see Aspenden); the almshouses a few yards W. were founded by him in
+1684. "This town," wrote Chauncy, "is of small antiquity, for there is
+no mention of it in Domesdei Book, neither can I find anything of it
+before Anno. 21. Edwd. III., when that King did grant one Market every
+Week, and one Fair every Year in Buntingford, to Elizabeth de Burgo and
+her Heirs, reserving the Yearly Rent of 6d." At the N. end of High
+Street is the old pound. _Corney Bury_ (1/2 mile N.) is a fine old manor
+house. Little of historic importance is to be gleaned in the town, but a
+ramble from end to end is interesting by reason of the many quaint inns
+and cottages, of all ages and styles, which meet the eye at every turn.
+
+_Burnham Green_ is a hamlet 11/4 mile N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Bury Green_ (11/2 mile W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a small
+hamlet near Theobald's Park; also
+
+_Bury Green_, a hamlet 21/2 miles W. from Bishop's Stortford.
+
+_Bury Hill and Bury Mill._ (See Hemel Hempstead.)
+
+_Bury Stede._ (See Hexton.)
+
+_Bush Barrow_ is 11/4 mile N. from Wallington, on Metley Hill, midway
+between the village and the Icknield Way.
+
+BUSHEY is a large village, now practically the S.E. suburb of Watford.
+The station (L.&N.W.R.) is in the hollow between the village itself and
+High Street, Watford; cyclists must be careful of the descent towards
+that town. Near the centre of the village is a small green and pond, and
+here stands the partly Dec. church of St. James, rebuilt in 1871 by Sir
+Gilbert Scott. The E.E. window, triple lancet, is to the memory of
+Edwards Marjoribanks of the Hall (d. 1879) and his wife. Silas Titus,
+whose name is remembered for his supposed authorship of the notorious
+pamphlet _Killing noe Murder_, was born at Bushey and buried in this
+church; there is a headstone to his daughter in the graveyard.
+
+BUSHEY HEATH (1 mile S.E. from the above) is on the Middlesex border. It
+is now an ecclesiastical district, formed in 1889; the church, an E.E.
+brick structure, dates from 1838; the porches were added in 1882. The
+district is very healthy.
+
+_Bushey, Little_, is E. from Bushey Heath, which it almost joins.
+
+_Bushey Mill_ is on the river Colne, 3/4 mile N.E. from Watford Junction.
+
+_Butchery Green._ (See Hertford.)
+
+BYGRAVE (13/4 mile N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.) has a small church
+built of clunch from the Ashwell pits near by. It dates from perhaps
+1320. Note (1) octagonal font (about 1420-40), (2) slab on floor to a
+former rector, a Huguenot (d. 1725), and (3) the piscina in chancel.
+Close by, at the Manor House, are the remains of some moats constructed
+five centuries ago by the resident knight, Sir John Thornbury, because
+of the many marauders that infested the neighbourhood. The place was
+once a market-town; the market, granted by Henry III., was held each
+Monday. The village lies on high ground, a few minutes' walk N. from the
+Icknield Way.
+
+CALDECOTE (about 3 miles N.N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.) has a
+Perp. church of rubble, containing a few memorials, a very finely
+canopied holy water basin, and a font dating from, say, 1480.
+
+_Caldicot Hill_ is 1 mile E. from Bushey Heath, on the Middlesex border.
+
+CASSIOBURY PARK. (See Watford.)
+
+_Catlip_ is a hamlet near Chorley Wood Station, Met.R.
+
+_Chandler's Cross_ (21/2 miles S.W. from King's Langley Station,
+L.&N.W.R.) is a small hamlet.
+
+_Chapmore End_ is 21/2 miles N. from Hertford.
+
+_Chelsing_ is near the river Rib, 3 miles N. from Ware.
+
+_Cherry Green_ (1 mile S.W. from West Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a small
+hamlet.
+
+CHESHUNT, according to Grose's _Antiquities_, the _Durolitum_ of
+Antoninus, is a large parish which contains much of interest. Its
+ancient names, Cestre, Ceaster, Cestrehunt, leave little doubt that it
+was a Roman station.[3] At Roman Urn Inn, near the station, G.E.R., is
+an urn imbedded in the wall; it was discovered close by some years ago,
+and is probably of Roman manufacture. Cheston, yet another old name of
+this spot, has been thought to be derived from the chestnut trees once
+plentiful in the neighbourhood, of which many of the houses were built.
+William I. gave the manor to Alan the Red, Earl of Brittany, and it
+remained an appendage to that earldom for a long time. Edward III.
+granted a weekly market to be held in the town every Monday. The Church
+of St. Mary the Virgin was built in 1420 by Nicholas Dixon, who held the
+living of Cheshunt for thirty years. It is Perp., entirely embattled;
+the W. tower has an octagonal cupola. Restoration was carefully effected
+during 1872-4, under Mr. G. F. Bodley. The rood-screen, lectern and
+pulpit are of carved oak, all comparatively new. The memorials are very
+numerous; amongst them may be noted (1) brass on chancel floor to the
+above-mentioned Nicholas Dixon (d. 1448); (2) brass to William Pyke (d.
+1449); (3) two female effigies, 1500-20; (4) altar tomb in chancel to
+Robert Dacres, Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. There are windows of
+stained glass to a former vicar (d. 1858); to General Miles (d. 1860),
+and, in the tower, to one Robert Archer, for thirty-six years parish
+clerk. N. from the main street, near the river Lea, stood a small
+Benedictine nunnery. It originally belonged to the Canons of Cathele,
+but Henry III. turned them out and gave the property and rights to the
+"Prioress and Nuns of Cesthont". The college, a famous institution,
+stands near the church; it was founded in 1768 by Selina, Countess of
+Huntingdon, at Trevecca, near Talgarth, S. Wales, and removed to
+Cheshunt after her death. A few years ago it was bought by the Church of
+England, for use as a theological college. Close by, too, is the site of
+Pengelly House, once the home of Richard Cromwell. Cheshunt Park (1 mile
+N.) is full of memories of the Cromwells and the Russells. The Great
+House, near Church Gate, was one of the many residences of Cardinal
+Wolsey. Both the house and the moat are still preserved.
+
+[Footnote 3: Chauncy writes: "This Vill in old Records was called
+Cestrehunt, from Castrum in the Latin, which might, in all Probability,
+import some castle erected here by the Romans; and the Saxons imitating
+the name, though corruptly ... might from hence call it Cestrehunt".]
+
+CHESS, river. (See Introduction.)
+
+_Cheverell's Green_ (11/2 mile N.W. from Flamstead, and about 4 miles N.W.
+from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet and green adjoining
+Beechwood Park.
+
+_Childwick Green_ is 1 mile S. from Harpenden Common, and 21/2 miles N.
+from St. Albans.
+
+CHIPPERFIELD (21/2 miles W. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) was
+made an ecclesiastical parish in 1863. The small church on the common,
+E.E. in style, built in 1837, is of little interest. There is a good
+lich-gate at the N. entrance to the churchyard. The neighbourhood is
+pleasant and varied.
+
+_Chipping_ (2 miles N. from Buntingford) is a small village on the
+Royston Road.
+
+_Chivesfield (or Chesfield)_ is 2 miles N.E. from Stevenage Station,
+G.N.R. It is locally famous for its ruined church. One John Wykins
+was rector here as early as 1323. The windows were partly destroyed in
+1642. Some interesting memorials were extant in Chauncy's day, and are
+mentioned in the second volume of his _Antiquities_.
+
+[Illustration: CHORLEY WOOD COMMON]
+
+CHORLEY WOOD, a village 21/2 miles N.W. from Rickmansworth, has a station
+on the Met.R. near the Amersham Road. The church, E.E. in style, dates
+from 1845, but was largely rebuilt in 1870. William Penn, the Quaker,
+was married here. There are many pretty walks through the Valley of the
+Chess, which flows between the village and Sarratt (_q.v._).
+
+_Church End_ is a small hamlet in the parish of Albury, 3 miles E. from
+Braughing Station, G.E.R.
+
+_Clapgate_, a hamlet on the river Ash, is close to Church End.
+
+_Clay End_ (11/2 mile S.E. from Walkern) is about equidistant--5
+miles--from Stevenage or Westmill Stations.
+
+_Clay Hill_ is on the high road between Bushey and Bushey Heath
+(_q.v._).
+
+CLOTHALL (21/4 miles S.E. from Baldock) has an interesting church, chiefly
+Perp., on a gentle hill. There is a good brass in the chancel to John
+Vynter, first rector of the church (d. 1404), and one to John Wright,
+Master of Trinity College, Cambridge, also rector here (d. 1519). On the
+S. of the church is a small Dec. chantry chapel. Note also a sixteenth
+century brass to the wife and sixteen children of William Bramfield of
+Clothall. The Saxons are said to have called the spot Cley Hall, because
+it stood on a hill of clay. Clothall Bury is a little to the E.
+
+_Cockernhoe Green_ is 21/2 miles S.W. from Offley, and 21/2 miles N.E. from
+Luton Station (Beds).
+
+_Cockhampstead_ (2 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) is near
+Albury Hall.
+
+CODICOTE (3 miles N.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) is a large village
+on the Welwyn-Hitchin Road, with a pleasant heath a little W. The Church
+of St. Giles is an ancient structure, E.E., restored in 1853; it stands
+in a field 1/2 mile N. from the village. The S. chapel dates from 1312.
+The embattled W. tower is a fine structure. There are several memorial
+windows, comparatively modern.
+
+COLE GREEN has a station on the G.N.R. branch line from Hatfield to
+Hertford. From the station little is to be seen except the Cowper's Arms
+and a few cottages.
+
+_Coleman's Green_ (11/2 mile S.E. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.) is
+prettily situated near the "Devil's Dyke" and Brocket Hall. John Bunyan
+sometimes preached in a cottage here; a large chimney-stack, bearing an
+inscription, still marks the spot, unless quite recently removed.
+
+_Collier's End_ is on high ground, on the Old North Road, 2 miles S.W.
+from Standon Station, G.E.R. It is a very typical English hamlet.
+
+COLNE, river. (See Introduction.)
+
+COLNEY HEATH (1 mile S. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is an
+ecclesiastical parish. The brick church (1844) is in Byzantine style; it
+has an apsidal chancel, and small N. porch and tower. The new West Herts
+County Asylum is close by.
+
+COLNEY STREET, on the main road from Radlett to St. Albans, forms an
+almost equilateral triangle with Park Street and Bricket Wood Stations,
+L.&N.W.R. It is only a few minutes' walk from the pretty church at
+Frogmore (_q.v._).
+
+_Common Moor_ may be visited from Croxley Green (3/4 mile N.E. from
+Rickmansworth) for an inspection of its large paper mill.
+
+_Cooter's End_ is a tiny hamlet close to the M.R. on the Bedfordshire
+border.
+
+_Corey's Mill_, a hamlet 1 mile N. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R., is
+named from an old mill, burnt in 1878.
+
+COTTERED (3 miles W. from Buntingford) has a fine old church (Perp.).
+There is a chapel on the N. side of the chancel erected by Edward
+Pulter; the W. tower is embattled and carries a lofty spire. Several
+memorials to the Pulter and Forester families are of the seventeenth
+century. The church was restored in 1886. In the days of William I. the
+_vill_ of Chodrei belonged to Walchelin, Bishop of Winchester. _Cottered
+Lordship_, a farmhouse near the village, is one of the very oldest
+dwellings in the county. The writer is assured by an expert that the
+front door dates from 1450-80!
+
+_Cromer_, a hamlet 5 miles S.W. from Buntingford, is prettily situated
+in a valley, in a purely agricultural district.
+
+_Cromer Hyde_ (11/2 mile S. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) consists of a
+farmhouse, the Chequer's Inn, and a few old and picturesque cottages.
+The nearest church is 1/2 mile S.E. at the corner of Brocket Hall Park.
+
+_Croxley Green_ (3/4 mile N.E. from Rickmansworth) is an ecclesiastical
+parish near the river Chess. The church, built fifty years ago, is late
+E.E. in style and has some good memorial windows.
+
+_Cuffley_ is a small hamlet about midway between Cheshunt and Potter's
+Bar (Middlesex) Stations, but a little N. from the straight line. The
+Church of St. James at Goff's Oak (_q.v._) is 1 mile E.
+
+_Cumberlow Green_ is 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford.
+
+_Currants Bottom_, on the Bucks border, is close to Chorley Wood
+Station, Met.R.
+
+_Dane End_, or Munden Street, is 4 miles S.W. from Standon Station,
+G.E.R. The nearest church (1/2 mile N.) is at Little Munden.
+
+_Dane End_, 4 miles S. from Royston, is close to the Old North Road.
+There are a few cottages and two farms.
+
+_Dassells_ is a hamlet on the Old North Road, 1 mile E. from Westmill
+Station, G.E.R. The little river Quin flows close by.
+
+DATCHWORTH (11/2 mile S.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) has a church
+with some Norman portions. Its spire is conspicuous for miles round. The
+larger portion is, however, Dec. Note (1) some good stained glass
+windows in chancel; (2) chalice dated 1630. The church was restored in
+1869-70. The place is very ancient; we read that four hides of land at
+_Decewyrth_ were granted by an early Saxon king to the Monastery of St.
+Peter at Westminster, and that in the reign of Edward III. Thomas de la
+Mere, Abbot of St. Albans, transferred the patronage of this church to
+the king.
+
+_Dean End_ (3/4 mile S. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet.
+
+_Delamore End_ is 1/2 mile E. from Flamstead, and near the high road to
+Dunstable. The nearest railway station is Redbourn, 21/2 miles S.E.
+
+_Digswell_, a village on the river Maran, is 1/2 mile S.W. from Welwyn
+Station, G.N.R. Looking E. the visitor will notice the Great Northern
+Viaduct over the Maran Valley--a truly magnificent structure of forty
+arches. The church, beautifully situated on the hill, is[h] E.E. It
+contains a large but much mutilated brass to John Perient, Master of the
+Horse to Joan of Navarre and Esquire to Richard II., Henry IV. and Henry
+V. This interesting inscription being much defaced I will transcribe
+from Chauncy: "Hic jacet Johannes Perient, Armiger pro corpore Regis
+Richardi Secundi, et Penerarius ejusdem Regis, et Armiger. Regis Henrici
+Quarti, et Armiger etiam Regis Henrici Quinti et Magister Equitum
+Johannae, filiae Regis Navarr, et Regiae Angliae qui obiit--et Johanna uxor
+ejus quondam capitalis Domicilla--quae obiit 24 Aprilis Anno Dom. 1415."
+Note also brasses (1) to John Perient, son of the above (d. 1442); (2)
+William Robert, auditor of the diocese of Winchester (d. 1484); (3) to a
+civilian, his wife, and ten children (_circa_ 1530); (4) to Thomas
+Hoore, a mercer of London, his wife, and twelve children. The church was
+restored in 1872.
+
+_Digswell Water_ is a hamlet 1/2 mile E. from Digswell Church, and close
+to Welwyn Station.
+
+_Down Green_ is 1/2 mile W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Driver's End_, a hamlet 2 miles W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R., is
+on the S.W. confines of Knebworth Park. One mile S. is the village of
+Codicote. The neighbourhood is very pleasant.
+
+_Dudswell_, a few cottages on the Grand Junction Canal, is 1/2 mile N.W.
+from Northchurch village, and 2 miles N.W. from Berkhampstead Station,
+L.&N.W.R.
+
+_East End_ (1 mile S.E. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.) is between
+Panshanger Park and the River Lea. There is also a hamlet of the same
+name on the Essex border, about 5 miles N.E. from Braughing Station,
+G.E.R.
+
+EASTWICK (1 mile N.W. from Burnt Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a parish near
+the Essex border, on the river Stort. The church, rebuilt in 1873, is in
+E.E. style. It is locally famous for its recumbent statue of a knight in
+chain armour, resting on a raised slab; the legs are crossed. There is
+neither date nor name; but it has been surmised (1) that the crossing of
+the legs shows that he was probably a crusader, (2) that the effigy
+dates from early in the thirteenth century and represents a member of
+the De Toni or De Ros family. The former conjecture is undoubtedly
+erroneous. There is a piscina in the chancel.
+
+ELSTREE, formerly Idlestree, is a large village beautifully situated on
+the Middlesex border; the station (M.R.) is to the N.E. at Boreham Wood.
+At the N. end of the street a fine view stretches in the direction of
+Radlett and St. Albans. The Church of St. Nicholas was founded by the
+Benedictine monks of St. Albans in the fourteenth century; the present
+structure is Dec. and dates from 1853. The monuments are unimportant;
+but the wrought-iron chancel screen, designed by Sir A. W. Blomfield, is
+worthy of careful scrutiny, as is also the vestry screen of carved oak.
+The five-light E. window was presented by the pupil of a former rector,
+John Morris, D.D. (d. 1848), to whom it is a memorial. In the old
+churchyard, closed some years ago, was buried the notorious robber and
+reputed murderer William Weare, who was murdered by Thurtell on Gill's
+Hill, 21/2 miles N.W., in 1823. Here, too, was buried Martha Reay, whose
+life was a chronicle of crime; she was mistress to the Earl of Sandwich,
+and was killed on leaving Covent Garden Theatre, in 1779. There is
+excellent fishing to be had at Elstree Reservoir, a little W., in
+Aldenham parish. Some archaeologists have thought that the Roman city
+_Sulloniacae_ occupied (approximately) the site on which Elstree stands,
+and Norden lent his authority to this hypothesis; but there is little
+doubt that Brockley Hill near Edgware more closely corresponds in
+position with the city mentioned in the _Itinerary_ of Antoninus.
+
+_Epping Green_, a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Little Berkhampstead, is at
+the N. end of Punsborne Park. The nearest station is Cole Green
+(G.N.R.), nearly 4 miles N.W.
+
+ESSENDON is a pretty village on rising ground overlooking the Valley of
+the Lea, 2 miles S. from Cole Green Station. The church, standing in the
+park, was rebuilt in 1883; it was probably founded as early as the
+twelfth century. It is now of flint, dressed with ancaster stone. Note
+(1) alabaster monument to William Priestly (d. 1664); (2) brass and
+effigy of William Tooke, auditor of the Court of Wards and Liveries (d.
+1588); (3) shields from the tomb of Henry Courtenay, son of Henry,
+Marquess of Exeter; (4) chalice bearing date 1570, given to the church
+by Elizabeth Reynes; (5) Baskerville Bible presented by the First
+Marquess of Salisbury. During restoration several slabs to the Tooke
+family (1635-55) were discovered. _Essendon Place_ (David Citroen, Esq.)
+is a fine house in a park of 100 acres; and _Bedwell Park_ (C. G.
+Arbuthnot, Esq.) should be visited, by special permission, to view the
+Belvedere Collection, including one of Murillo's many "Assumptions".
+
+_Exnells_, near the river Ash, is a small hamlet 2 miles N.E. from
+Hadham Station, G.E.R.
+
+_Fanham Hall_ is 1 mile N.E. from Ware.
+
+_Fisher's Green_ (1/2 mile N.W. from Stevenage) is a small hamlet.
+
+_Flamstead_ (21/2 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) lies on high
+ground near the river Ver. The name is a corruption of Verlamstead, the
+river having formerly been called the "Verlam". The church is in the
+centre of the village; it is a large Dec. structure dating from the
+fourteenth century; the nave is of six bays, with fine octagonal
+pillars. The tower is very large and massive. Note (1) piscina in W.
+wall of vestry, once a chapel; (2) piscina in chancel; (3) finely carved
+oak chancel screen, dating from fifteenth century but restored in 1893;
+(4) mutilated altar-tomb in nave, carved and crocketted, but bearing no
+inscription, it is probably not later than 1400-20; (5) marble monument,
+with Ionic columns, to Thomas Saunders of Beechwood; (6) brass to John
+Oudeby, rector of the church (d. 1414); (7) effigy in armour to Sir
+Bartholomew Fouke, Kt., for many years Master of the Household to Queen
+Elizabeth (d. 1604). At _Beechwood Park_, so called because of the many
+fine beeches in the neighbourhood, was once a Benedictine Nunnery. The
+walk from Flamstead to Great Gaddesden, by way of Beechwood Park (about
+6 miles), is very picturesque.
+
+_Flamstead Bury_ is 1 mile W. from Redbourn Station, M.R., and midway
+between the N. end of the village and a spot called Heaven's Gate.
+
+_Flamstead End_ (11/2 mile N.W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a
+considerable hamlet.
+
+_Flaunden_ (4 miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a village
+and parish on the Bucks border, with the river Chess 11/4 mile S. The
+present church is modern, and local folk claim that it is the first
+built by the late Sir Gilbert Scott. The font, and a few tiles, etc.,
+were brought here from the old church at Flaunden Bottom near Chenies,
+some ruins of which still remain. Chauncy tells us that Flaunden
+belonged to the manor of Hemel Hempstead, that it was granted to one
+Thomas Flaunden, who built a small church in the valley near the river
+(Chess) with a small tower of timber at the W. end. Spiritual offices
+were performed by a curate supplied from Hemel Hempstead, who served
+Bovingdon and Flaunden by turns as duty required.
+
+_Folly, The_ (a small hamlet 1 mile N.W. from Wheathampstead Station,
+G.N.R.), is passed on the way to Harpenden or Mackery End. A little
+farther W. is Batford Mill on the river Lea.
+
+_Frithsden_ (or _Friesden_), a hamlet 2 miles N.E. from Great
+Berkhampstead, stands in a beautiful district, with Ashridge Park to the
+N.W. The nearest church is at the pretty village of Nettleden (_q.v._)
+1/2 mile N.E. High Park Road, Evesden Wood, Marigold Wood, Holly Bush Wood
+and Frithsden copses are all adjacent and may be visited during an
+hour's ramble.
+
+FROGMORE (3/4 mile S.E. from Park Street Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a hamlet
+between the villages of Park Street and Colney Street. The church is
+modern, in late Norman style; it stands close to the high road from
+Radlett to St. Albans. There are several memorial windows to local
+persons. The village flower show has been held for many years in July,
+and is well patronised and widely known. The river Colne flows between
+this hamlet and Park Street Station.
+
+FURNEAUX PELHAM (4 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) has an
+interesting E.E. and Perp. church. One of the six bells in the embattled
+W. tower dates from before the Reformation; it bears, in black-letter,
+the words "Sancta Katarina ora pro nobis"; upon the clock in the tower
+are the words: "Time flies. Mind your business." Note (1) piscina and
+sedilia in chancel; (2) piscina in each aisle; (3) Newport Chapel
+adjoining S. aisle, built by the Robert Newport whose brass and effigy
+is in the nave (d. 1518); (4) brass (mutilated) in chapel, representing
+two figures, _temp._ Richard II.; (5) ambry (lancet headed) in chancel;
+(6) three ancient stone coffins, discovered during restoration, one
+bearing the words: "Simonis de Furneaux Filius". The De Furneaux were a
+Norman family, to whom the village owes its name: Simon de Furneaux was
+lord of the manor in the reign of Edward I. Close to the church is
+_Furneaux Pelham Hall_ (recently unoccupied), a fine Elizabethan mansion
+whose owners suffered several misfortunes during the civil wars.
+
+GADDESDEN, GREAT (3 miles N.W. from Hemel Hempstead), is a village on
+the river Gade at the foot of the hill that leads to Nettleden. The
+church is close to the river side, and immediately behind the _Cock and
+Bottle Inn_. It is an ancient structure of "Roman bricks" and flint
+(E.E.), believed to date from, say, 1290; the tower was rebuilt in 1862.
+There are many memorials to the Halsey family, but few others of any
+interest. _Gaddesden Place_, in a park 1/2 mile E., is the seat of Rt.
+Hon. T. F. Halsey, Esq., D.L., J.P. It was built from designs by Wyatt,
+in 1774, in an Italian style.
+
+GADDESDEN, LITTLE (4 miles N. from Berkhampstead Station, L.&N.W.R.), is
+a straggling village on the confines of Ashridge Park. Pretty cottages
+and tastefully planned gardens meet the eye everywhere. The church is
+Perp. and contains many monuments to the Egerton family, Earls of
+Bridgewater: (1) Sir John Egerton, Kt. (d. 1649); (2) Lady Frances,
+Countess of Bridgewater (d. 1635); (3) John, Viscount Brackley, Lord of
+the Privy Council (d. 1686); (4) Elizabeth, Countess of Bridgewater, a
+"transcendently virtuous lady" of "beauty so unparallel'd that 'tis as
+much beyond the art of the most elegant pen, as it surpasseth the skill
+of several of the most exquisite pencils ... to describe and not
+disparage it" (d. 1663); (5) Ann, Lady Egerton (d. 1625); (6) Francis,
+third Duke of Bridgewater (d. 1803). The latter was styled the Father of
+British Inland Navigation; and the tall column near Ashridge Park, 13/4
+mile W. from the church, was erected to his memory in 1832.
+
+_Gaddesden Green_ is practically one with the above, the marble cross
+and fountain to the memory of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888) being between
+the village and the Green. Gaddesden Hoe is 2 miles E. from the S. end
+of the Green.
+
+_Gaddesden Row_ (3 miles N. from Hemel Hempstead Station, M.R.) is a
+straggling hamlet equidistant (about 2 miles) from Flamstead and Great
+Gaddesden.
+
+GADE, river. (See Introduction.)
+
+_Gallows Hill_ (1/2 mile S. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a
+hamlet. The Booksellers' Provident Retreat is here. It is also the name
+of a hill between Hertford and Ware, on which stands the Joint Isolation
+Hospital for the two towns.
+
+_Gannock Green_ is 21/2 miles S. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R. The nearest
+church is at Sandon. Gannock Farm is 1/2 mile E.
+
+_Gardener's End_ (31/2 miles W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet in the
+parish of Ardeley.
+
+_Garston_ is 11/4 mile S.W. from Bricket Wood Station, L.&N.W.R.
+
+_Gibraltar_, on the road from Harpenden to Luton, is on the Bedfordshire
+border, close to Luton Hoo Park and Station, G.N.R.
+
+GILSTON (2 miles N. from Burnt Hill Station (Essex) and about 2 miles
+S.E. from Widford village) is a scattered parish. Chauncy says it was
+probably waste ground at the time of the Conquest, as there is no
+mention of it in _Domesday Book_. The church was very probably erected
+by Geoffrey de Magnaville, who was Earl of Essex and Lord of the Manor
+of Sabriesword (Sawbridgeworth) during the reign of Stephen. It is E.E.
+and stands on the hill about 1/4 mile N. from the Park. There is a fine
+double piscina in the chancel, and some heraldic glass in the windows,
+showing the coats of Astley, Bassett, Eastfield and Engayne. The
+monuments to the Gore family are numerous; amongst those buried in the
+church are (1) Sir John Gore, Kt. (d. 1659); he was twice sheriff of the
+county, and a member of Cromwell's second Protectorate Parliament; (2)
+Dame Dorothy Gore (Kempe), second wife to the foregoing (d. 1645); (3)
+Dame Persis, wife to Sir Humphrey Gore, Kt. (d. 1665); (4) in
+churchyard, John, eldest son of the said Sir Humphrey (d. 1691). The
+Feathers, a fine old inn (_circa_ 1680), still stands in this village;
+an excellent photograph of it was reproduced in the _Home Counties
+Magazine_ (Oct. 1901). _Gilston Park_, beautiful but not very extensive,
+should be visited; for the mansion (A. S. Bowlby, Esq., M.A., J.P.,
+etc.) stands near the site of _New Place_, successively the home of the
+Chauncys, Gores and Plumers. The house was enlarged and beautified by
+Sir Humphrey Gore, who was knighted at Whitehall in 1660. In 1701 it
+passed into the hands of Col. John Plumer, whose family is so well known
+to readers of the _Essays of Elia_. It was his grandson William (d.
+1822) whom Lamb calls "a fine old Whig". This William left no family, so
+the house at Gilston Park and his other house, the famous "Blakesmoor in
+H----shire" of Lamb's essay, passed to his widow (and cousin) Jane
+Hamilton, a daughter of Hon. George Hamilton, Canon of Windsor.
+
+_Goff's Oak_ (21/2 miles W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet
+which owes its name to the fine oak, a part of which still stands near
+the Goff's Oak Inn at the S. extremity of Cheshunt Common.
+
+GORHAMBURY. (See St. Albans.)
+
+_Gosmore_ (2 miles S.W. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.) is a small
+village. The nearest church is at Ippollitts (_q.v._).
+
+_Gossoms End_ is on the road from Berkhampstead to Tring, 1/4 mile S.E.
+from Northchurch.
+
+GRAVELEY (11/2 mile N.E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a village off
+the Great North Road. By walking from Stevenage towards Little
+Wymondley[i] a pretty view over Graveley may be obtained from a gateway
+near some cottages on the right. The ancient church of brick and flint
+is late Norman with embattled tower; it was restored in 1886-7. The
+carved oak chancel-screen is ancient; there are windows of stained glass
+to the memory of local rectors. The present N. aisle was added during
+restoration. The manor of Graveley is of great antiquity; it was given
+by William I. to William, Earl of Ewe. Graveley is perhaps Saxon for
+"the Reeve's land," and Norden thinks the place took its name from a
+Reeve of the county in pre-Norman times. Near the village a beacon was
+employed "once upon a time" to give warning of the approach of enemies.
+One mile N. from the church is Jack's Hill, once the haunt of a robber,
+"Jack o' legs," the hero of many a legend known in the district. His
+grave is shown in Weston churchyard, 2 miles E. from Jack's Hill.
+
+_Gravesend_ (31/2 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet
+on the road from Little Hadham to Furneaux Pelham. Albury church is 1
+mile S.
+
+_Green End_ is the name of three hamlets, (1) in the parish of Little
+Munden, about 4 miles W. from Standon Station; (2) in the parish of
+Sandon, about 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station (both stations
+G.E.R.); (3) 1/2 mile N. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.
+
+_Green Street._--There are two hamlets of this name in Herts, (1) 21/2
+miles N.W. from Bishop's Stortford; (2) 11/2 mile N.E. from Boreham Wood
+Station (M.R.).
+
+_Green Tye_ is 11/2 mile N.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R.
+
+_Grub's Barn_ (2 miles S.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) consists of a
+farmhouse and several cottages on open breezy ground between Hatfield
+and Tewin.
+
+_Grub's Lane_ is near the outskirts of Hatfield Park, 3 miles S.E. from
+the town.
+
+_Gubblecot_ (3 miles N.W. from Tring) is near the Aylesbury Canal. The
+Tring reservoirs, famous for the rare waterfowl shot on those waters on
+many occasions, are a little to the S.
+
+_Gustard Wood_ (1 mile N. from Wheathampstead Station G.N.R.) may be
+visited for its golf links, of which there are few in the county.
+
+HADHAM (GREAT or MUCH) is an ancient village and parish near the river
+Ash. The station, G.E.R., is 11/4 mile S.W. We read that the Manor was
+given by King Edgar to the Bishops of London, several of whom have
+resided at the old manor house. Katherine, mother of Henry VI. and wife
+of Owen Tudor, gave birth to a son here, known as Edmund of Hadham. The
+church of St. Andrew, near the river, is E.E., dating from about 1300.
+It has been much altered and restored. The very fine S. porch is thought
+to be the work of Bishop Kemp (1459-89); the massive, embattled W. tower
+is probably by Bishop Braybroke (_circa_ 1400). Note (1) floriated cross
+and inscription to Simon Flambard, Rector of Hadham Magna in 1331, and
+chaplain to Edward III.; (2) brass to one Alban, also rector here (d.
+1372); (3) monument in chancel to Judith Aylmer, widow of John Aylmer,
+Bishop of London (d. 1618); (4) fourteenth-century glass in E. window,
+a memorial to Thomas Randolph, a recent rector; (5) three brasses in
+nave to members of the Newce family (1579-1610); (6) fine oak chancel
+screen; (7) two piscinae in chancel. The old House, or Palace, dated from
+about 1400. Close to the village (S.W.) lies _Moor Park_, which readers
+or tourists must not confound with Moor Park, Rickmansworth (_q.v._).
+The present mansion dates from about 1780; its predecessor was an
+Elizabethan structure, once the property of Sir John Gore, Kt. (see
+Gilston), and previously of Sir Garratt Harvey, in whose day Archbishop
+Usher was a guest at "Moore Place". At _Perry Green_, 1 mile E. from
+Hadham Station, is a chapel-of-ease, in E.E. style, erected in 1853.
+_Hadham Cross_ is beautifully situated in the valley, S. from the
+village and partly hidden among trees.
+
+_Hadham Ford_ (3 miles E. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) is on the river
+Ash, 1 mile S.W. from
+
+HADHAM (LITTLE) formerly Hadham Parva. The parish enjoys considerable
+historic importance through its connection with the Capel family, Earls
+of Essex. The present earl owns large properties in the neighbourhood,
+and has the title of Baron of Hadham. The church stands between the
+village and the river, and is widely known for its fine S. porch of
+timber, which it possibly owes to the proximity of Essex, in which
+county such porches are comparatively common. The building is mostly
+E.E., probably late twelfth century, but the tower, embattled and
+pinnacled, is Perp. (_circa_ 1380). Note (1) brass to Rd. Waren, a
+rector of Great Hadham (_circa_ 1470); (2) brass to a knight, his wife
+and daughters (_circa_ 1485); (3) Perp. chancel screen of oak; (4) on S.
+side of chancel, memorial stone to "Arthur Lord Capel, Baron of Hadham,
+who was murder'd for his loyalty to King Charles the First, March the
+9th, 1648". This was the Lord Capel whose heart was preserved in a
+silver box and given to Charles II. at the Restoration, the earl having
+wished his heart to be "buried with his master". The chancel was
+restored by Sir A. W. Blomfield in 1885. _Hadham Hall_ (1/2 mile E. from
+the church) is late Elizabethan, and has a magnificent corridor
+extending the entire length of the house (135 feet) with finely
+mullioned windows. _Little Hadham Place_ (1/2 mile W. from the church) is
+prettily situated. The manor of Hadham Parva formed part of the revenue
+of Saxon Kings until King Edgar gave it to the monks of Ely.
+
+HAILEYBURY COLLEGE (2 miles S.E. from Hertford) was founded at Hertford
+in 1805 as the training college of the East India Company. It is now one
+of our most famous public schools. The house, conspicuous from the S.E.,
+stands on high ground, and commands beautiful views over the valley of
+the Lea, and, looking S.E., the neighbourhood of Epping Forest. Note (1)
+the noble chestnut avenue towards the W. entrance; (2) the great size of
+the quadrangle; (3) the beautifully decorated chapel (by A. W.
+Blomfield), surmounted by a lofty dome; (4) the library, containing some
+good portraits of former masters, one of which, Canon Bradby, was
+painted by Herkomer.
+
+_Hall's Green_ (4 miles N.E. from Stevenage) is on the hillside, 1 mile
+S.E. from Weston church. A little farther S. note the fine view over
+Cromer and Cottered, with windmill to the left.
+
+_Hammond Street_ is between Cheshunt Common and Flamstead End. The
+nearest Station is Cheshunt, G.E.R., 21/2 miles S.E.
+
+_Hammond's End_, on the outskirts of Rothamstead Park, is in the centre
+of the pleasant varied scenery between the M.R. and the St.
+Albans-Dunstable road. The nearest station is Redbourn, 11/4 mile S.W.
+
+_Handside (Upper and Lower)_ is the name of two hamlets in Lemsford
+parish, both near Brocket Hall Park. Hatfield (about 3 miles S.) is the
+nearest station, G.N.R.
+
+HARE STREET.--There are two places in the county bearing this name: (1)
+a small hamlet partly in Ardeley and partly in Cottered parish; (2) a
+large village on the Cambridge Road, 2 miles E. from Buntingford. The
+village has several quaint old cottages, and is by no means
+unpicturesque; but it contains little of historic importance. It
+affords, however, a good centre from which to visit several old and
+interesting churches (described elsewhere in these pages); Layston,
+Wyddial, Anstey, and Great and Little Hormead being all within a short
+walk.
+
+_Harmer Green_ (1/2 mile N.E. from Welwyn Station) is a small hamlet N.
+from the Maran Valley.
+
+HARPENDEN is well worth a visit and may be easily reached from St.
+Pancras (24 miles), or from King's Cross by changing at Hatfield.
+Visitors wishing to inspect the church, or to ramble through the large
+village, beautifully situated at the N. end of Harpenden Common, should
+be careful not to choose the day of the annual races, the Friday before
+Epsom week. The church was rebuilt (except the tower) in 1862, in E.
+Dec. style; prior to 1859 the old structure had been a chapel-of-ease to
+Wheathampstead (3 miles E.). It probably dated from say 1140 (_temp._
+Stephen) and was originally cruciform and late Norman. The first tower
+is believed to have been destroyed by fire about 1470, after which the
+present W. tower was built. Many alterations were made during the
+seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; the original Norman clerestory, in
+particular, being superseded by one of Low Perp. Note (1) Norman font;
+(2) brass to William Cressye Esq. (d. 1558) and Grace (Johnson) his wife
+(d. 1571); (3) brass to William Annabull (d. 1456), and Isabella his
+wife. Chauncy quotes an inscription to one William Seabrooke (d. 1462)
+and Joanna his wife, which is of some interest from the fact that the
+name of Seabrooke is common to-day in this part of Herts; (4) E. window
+of stained Munich glass; (5) window in N. transept to the family of the
+late Sir J. B. Lawes of Rothamstead. _Rothamstead_ (1 mile S.W.),
+formerly the seat of the above, is in a finely wooded park. Erected
+about 1470, it has been almost rebuilt at different times. From the
+grand entrance, under the clock tower, there is a fine view looking S.
+There is an annual Flower Show in the park. Harpenden Bury is 1 mile
+N.W. from Rothamstead, on the river Ver.
+
+_Hatching Green_ is a hamlet on Harpenden Common, 1 mile S.W. from the
+station, M.R.
+
+HATFIELD may be visited by fast train from King's Cross, G.N.R. (17
+miles), the station being opposite the W. gates of the park. The older
+parts of the town lie on the western slope of a hill close to the
+railway; at the top stand the church and portions of the old palace,
+beyond which, in the park, stands the fine mansion of the Cecils. The
+town is of great antiquity; the Saxon Kings, who called it Heathfield
+(the _Hetfelle_ of _Domesday Book_), owned the manor until it was given
+by Edgar to the monks of Ely. After Ely had been converted into a
+bishopric by Henry I., the bishops made Hatfield one of their several
+residences, which gave rise to its former name of Bishop's Hatfield.
+Their palace became a royal home during the reign of Henry VIII., and
+was at one time occupied by his children Edward, Mary and Elizabeth. It
+was to this old palace that Elizabeth was brought from the Tower soon
+after her removal from Ashridge; whilst here she was in the custody
+of Sir Thomas Pope, who treated her with kindness not always shown even
+to royal prisoners. The story of her reception of the news that she was
+Queen, of her first Council, held here in the palace, and of her
+subsequent journey to London, has been too often narrated to need
+repetition. Immediately after her death James I. paid a visit to
+Theobalds Park, and had an interview with Sir Robert Cecil, a younger
+son of Lord Burleigh, whom he presently created first Earl of Salisbury.
+The exchange by the King of his manor of Hatfield for that of Theobalds
+has been mentioned in the Introduction (Section X). The King promised to
+build for Sir Robert a new house at Hatfield; the work was carried out
+on a magnificent scale, and was completed sometime in 1611. The new
+house stood a little E. from the old palace. To this house James paid an
+early visit; one of its most stately apartments is called "King James's
+Room".
+
+[Illustration: HATFIELD HOUSE]
+
+_Hatfield House_ is still a fine example of early Jacobean architecture.
+To be appreciated it must certainly be seen: any adequate account of its
+architecture, its history and its treasures would fill such a volume as
+this. In shape it is a parallelogram, about 280 feet long by 70 feet
+wide, with two wings on the S. front. The centre between the two wings
+is Italian Renaissance in style; the central tower, pierced by the great
+gate, being of rich Elizabethan design. On the face of the third storey
+of the tower are the armorial bearings of the Earl of Salisbury. This S.
+front and the two wings enclose on three sides a quadrangle about 130
+feet wide by 100 feet deep, beautifully laid out with flower beds and
+lawns. The extremities of each wing take the shape of square, three
+storeyed towers, surmounted by cupolas 20 feet high. Between the wings
+runs a basement arcade, of eight arches on Doric pilasters, four on each
+side of the gateway below the armorial bearings. The entire floor above
+the arcade is occupied by the long gallery, 160 feet by 20 feet, and 16
+feet high. At the W. end of this gallery is the library, at the E. end
+is King James's Room. The aspect of the house from the N. is not so
+imposing; but there is a noble view over the grounds from the N.
+terrace, and the central clock tower is a conspicuous object from the
+most distant spots in the park. The library, graced by Zucchero's
+portrait of Robert, Earl of Salisbury, contains one of the most valuable
+collections of MSS. in the country, but the State Papers have recently
+been lodged in a room of greater security. A few of the treasures of
+these two rooms may be mentioned: (1) more than 12,000 autograph letters
+of the early Cecils; (2) the Diary of the "great Lord Burleigh"; (3) the
+forty-two articles of Edward VI. with his autograph attached; (4) a
+vellum MS. with miniature of Henry VII.; (5) the Norfolk correspondence;
+(6) the Council Book of Mary Tudor; (7) early MS. of the Chronicle of
+William of Malmesbury; (8) autograph MS. by Ascham.
+
+[Illustration: KING JAMES'S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE]
+
+_King James's Room_ has three fine oriel windows and is profusely
+decorated. The great chimney-piece of marble mosaic, 12 feet wide, is
+supported on black Doric columns, and surmounted by a statue in bronze
+of James. Note the costly candelabra and gilt-framed furniture.
+
+_The Grand Staircase_ is hung with portraits of many Cecils, by Lely,
+Vandyck, Kneller, Reynolds and other masters. Note the huge dimensions
+of the carved balustrade; the strange rustic figures portrayed thereon;
+and the lions grasping shields bearing heraldic devices. There are five
+landings.
+
+Among other apartments the following should be visited: (1) _The
+Chapel_, with its fine Flemish windows representing scriptural stories,
+marble altar-piece, and open stalls; (2) the _Winter Dining Room_,
+looking out upon the N. terrace, about 30 feet square; this room
+contains many valuable pictures, including Wilkie's Duke of Wellington,
+Van Somer's James I. and Charles I., and Kneller's Peter the Great; (3)
+_Great Banqueting Hall_; (4) _Summer Dining Room_, near the foot of the
+great staircase; the bust of Burleigh, in white marble, is above the
+door; (5) the _Armoury_, full of treasures "rich and rare," suits of
+armour, relics of the Spanish Armada, various arms, etc. Other pictures
+in various parts of the house include (1) William III., and Lady
+Ranelagh, by Kneller; (2) half-length of Elizabeth with jewelled
+head-dress and grotesquely embroidered gown; Mildred Coke, mother of
+the first earl; Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter: all by Zucchero; (3) fine
+whole-length of Mary, first Marchioness of Salisbury, by Reynolds.
+
+The Park is the largest in the county, being about 9 miles in
+circumference; it is undulating and beautifully wooded. There are some
+superb avenues. Of Queen Elizabeth's oak, N.E. from the N. terrace,
+little is left saving a portion of trunk, railed round; but the Lion
+Oak, between the house and the great W. gates, still puts forth leaves
+in its season. The maze close to the house is only less famous than that
+at Hampton Court.
+
+The Church of St. Ethelreda is cruciform, largely Dec. and one of the
+largest in the county. A Norman arch in the S. transept is thought to be
+a portion of the original structure. It was completely restored, indeed
+almost rebuilt, in 1872. The nave is 102 feet by 20 feet; the chancel
+about 40 feet by 20 feet. There are N. and S. porches; the former looks
+almost directly upon the great gate-house of the old palace. The most
+important among many features of interest is the--
+
+_Salisbury Chapel_, N. side of chancel, from which it is divided by an
+arcade of three arches on Ionic granite columns. The whole is enclosed
+by beautifully designed iron gates, the work, probably, of an unknown
+Italian. Note the marble wainscotting, and the finely conceived and
+executed allegorical paintings and mosaics on walls and roof. At the E.
+side, on a slab of black marble supported by four kneeling figures in
+white marble (representing the cardinal virtues) lies the recumbent
+effigy of Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, Lord High Treasurer
+of England (d. 1612). The effigy is in robes, with official staff in
+hand. Beneath the slab is a skeleton in white marble. Note also in this
+chapel mezzo-relievo effigy to William Curll, Esq. (d. 1617), with
+inscription, almost illegible, to the effect that he was a most
+Christian knight who died in hope of a joyful resurrection.
+
+On the opposite (S.) side of the chancel is the _Brockett Chapel_,
+containing monuments to the Reades and Brocketts of Brocket Hall (see
+below). Among them note (1) two recumbent female figures, above them the
+arms of the Brockett family and beneath an inscription to Dame Elizabeth
+Brockett (d. 1612) and an epitaph to Dame Agnes Saunders (d. 1588); (2)
+medallion of a female by Rysbrack (1760); (3) bust of Sir James Reade,
+Bart. (d. 1701), and of Sir John Reade, Bart. (d. 1711); (4) helmet of
+Sir John Brockett on wall. There are piscinae in the chancel and N.
+transept, both discovered during restoration. The reredos, alabaster and
+mosaic, has a fine crucifixion group, with SS. Alban and Etheldreda on
+either side, carved by Earp, who also carved the pulpit of Caen stone.
+Note the beautiful clustered shafts of marble on the font of Tisbury
+stone, the gift of the late Marchioness of Salisbury.
+
+Three miles N.N.W. is _Brocket Hall_. The Great North Road skirts the
+park on the E. and the river Lea flows past the house from N.W. to S.E.
+The present edifice was designed by Paine for Sir Matthew Lamb, Bart.,
+whose son, Sir Peniston Lamb, Bart., became Viscount Melbourne in 1780.
+By this nobleman the Prince Regent was sometimes entertained here, and
+here, as stated in the Introduction, Lord Palmerston died in 1865. The
+drawing-room and grand staircase have always been admired, but, as a
+whole, the house is large and stately rather than beautiful. Elizabeth
+is said to have visited here before she became Queen, and in the park,
+as at Hatfield, an oak is shown as the one under which she loved to sit.
+From the Hall the most charming walks may be taken in any direction;
+_e.g._, through the park S.E. to Lemsford Mill, or S.W. to Cromer Hyde,
+N.W. to Water End, or N.E. to Ayot Green. More charming still is the
+ramble--permission should be requested--beside the winding Lea towards
+Old Marford and Wheathampstead.
+
+_Hatfield Hyde_ (13/4 mile N.E. from Hatfield) is a hamlet in a pretty
+district, with the river Lea and Hatfield Park a little S.
+
+_Haultwick_ lies 3 miles W. from the Old North Road; it is a hamlet 1
+mile N. from Little Munden. The nearest station is Braughing, G.E.R.
+(about 31/2 miles E.), passing the S. side of Hamel's Park.
+
+_Heavensgate_ (2 miles W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) consists of a
+few cottages in the centre of a district of small hamlets. The walk (2
+miles N.) to Flamstead through Trowley Bottom is pleasant.
+
+[Illustration: HEMEL HEMPSTEAD]
+
+HEMEL HEMPSTEAD.--Visitors from London should book to Boxmoor
+(L.&N.W.R.) and walk N.E. over the little common or take the motor-bus
+through Marlowes to the town (11/2 mile). From St. Albans it is a pleasant
+walk by way of Gorhambury and the village of Leverstock Green; from
+Redbourn it is but a few minutes' journey (M.R.). The town, until
+recently an old "Bailiwick," is on a hill, with central market place,
+town hall and corn exchange. The church is very ancient; it is
+cruciform, of flint and clunch stone. The oldest portions can hardly be
+less than 750 years old; the nave, arcade and W. doorway are fine
+examples of the period. Note (1) groined roof and Dec. windows S. side
+of chancel; (2) transept roof, fourteenth century, restored in 1880; (3)
+nave roof, fifteenth century, restored 1885; (4) great height of
+octagonal, leaded spire, conspicuous for miles round (see illustration).
+Among monuments note (1) figured brass, representing an armed man, to
+Robert Albyn and Margaret his wife (1480); the inscription I transcribe
+from Chauncy:--
+
+    "Robert Albyn gist icy
+    Et Margareta sa femme oubike luy
+    Dieu de lez almes eyt mercy";
+
+(2) monument to Sir Astley Paston Cooper (d. 1841).
+
+Hemel Hempstead, according to Norden, owed its name (Heanhamsted) to
+the high hemp-land on the E. side of the town. Offa, King of the
+Mercians, gave six houses at _Hemelhamstede_ to the Abbey of St. Albans;
+but the remainder of the _vill_ remained in the hands of Saxon Kings
+until it was given to Earl Moreton by William I. The entry in _Domesday
+Book_ is in this case unusually interesting; the property held by Earl
+Moreton is thus described: "Earl Moreton held Hamelhamstede in Treung
+hundred, it was rated for 10 hides ... there are two Frenchmen born,
+with thirteen Bordars, ... there are eight Servants, and four Mills of
+seven and thirty Shillings and four Pence Rent by the Year, and three
+hundred Eels wanting five and twenty, Meadow four Carucates, Common of
+Pasture for the Cattle, and two Shillings Rent by the Year, Wood to feed
+one thousand and two hundred Hogs; in the whole value it is worth two
+and twenty Pounds, when he received it five and twenty Pounds, and Rent
+in the time of King Edward (the Confessor). Two were Brethren, Men of
+Earl Lewin, they held this mannor." From Priory Hill, W. from the
+church, a fine view may be obtained of the town below and the cornfields
+beyond. _Bury Mill_ is on the river Gade, at the foot of the hill.
+_Gadesbridge Park_ is on the left as you pass from High Street to
+Piccott's End; the House is on a beautifully wooded slope, W. from the
+Gade; it is the residence of Sir Astley Paston Paston Cooper, Bart.,
+J.P., etc. A good deal of straw plait is still made by the women of
+this neighbourhood.
+
+_Heronsgate_ (3 miles W. from Rickmansworth) is a hamlet on the Bucks
+border, with a small chapel-of-ease to St. Peter's, Mill End, 11/4 mile E.
+The building is modern, with one window of stained glass.
+
+[Illustration: HERTFORD]
+
+HERTFORD, the county town, is of immemorial antiquity. The origin of the
+name has elicited much learned conjecture, and Hertford is one of
+several places held to be the _Durocobrivis_ mentioned by Antonine. It
+is the _Herudsford_ (_i.e._ red ford) of the Venerable Bede. That it was
+a town of some importance on the river Lea even in the days of the
+Trinobantes seems indisputable. Norden conjectured that the true name of
+the town was Hartford, so called because in Saxon times, when the
+surrounding country was densely wooded, the harts crossed the river by a
+natural ford at this spot. However this may be, the old borough seal,
+three or four centuries ago, bore as a device a hart in shallow water.
+The rivers Rib, Beane, and Maran all unite with the Lea in the immediate
+neighbourhood. Some reference may be here made to the doings of Alfred
+the Great in this neighbourhood. By putting together what is recorded by
+William of Malmesbury, Henry of Huntingdon, Asser and others we learn
+that in the twenty-third year of Alfred's reign the Danes infested the
+Thames with their ships, sailed up the Lea in the lighter of their
+crafts, and built a fort about 20 miles from London, at or near what is
+now the town of Ware. Presently, in the course of their many foraging
+excursions, they sailed farther up the river towards Hertford, stripped
+the people in the town and burnt down many houses. They afterwards
+established a garrison near the town. Alfred brought his army down to
+the river side the following year and made a careful survey of the
+Danish fort and of the character and position of their ships. He is said
+to have passed from place to place in a boat, drawn by a horse, and to
+have carefully ascertained the depth of the water at different points.
+The precise nature of his subsequent operations is not well known, but
+he is said to have diverted the course of the river, to have erected a
+dam (Shass) at Blackwall, and by these means to have grounded the Danish
+fleet. The Danes held a treaty, and eventually withdrew into
+Cambridgeshire and Gloucestershire; the Londoners came down to the scene
+of Alfred's ingenuity and destroyed or appropriated the Danish ships.
+
+Of the castle, built by Edward the Elder in 905, there still remain
+several large fragments of an embattled wall, partly Norman, and a
+postern gate. Of its history only a few leading facts can be mentioned
+here. William I. entrusted it to the keeping of Peter de Valoignes; it
+was besieged by Louis the Dauphin, and capitulated on the Feast of St.
+Nicholas in 1216; it was granted, together with the town, to John of
+Gaunt, Earl of Richmond, in whose time Kings John of France and David
+of Scotland were prisoners within its walls, and after the Earl had been
+created Duke of Lancaster he held a court in the castle for three weeks.
+It was the last prison house of Isabella, widow of Edward II. Henry IV.
+gave the castle to his wife Joan; Henry V. to his wife Katherine of
+France; and Henry VI. to his wife Margaret of Anjou. Elizabeth and James
+I. are both said to have visited this castle. Charles I., on 3rd May, in
+the sixth year of his reign, transferred it to William Earl of
+Salisbury. It was seized by the Parliament during the Great Rebellion.
+
+The Roman Catholic Church in St. John Street stands on or near the site
+of the old Priory, founded during the reign of William I. by Ralph
+Limesy and by him conveyed to the Abbot of St. Albans, who placed here
+six Benedictine monks under Ralph, who became their first prior. The
+Priory was dissolved in the twenty-sixth year of Henry VIII.; but the
+church was rebuilt by Thomas Willis in 1629. It was "demolisht by order
+of the Bishop of Lincoln" towards the end of the seventeenth century.
+The church of All Saints, on high ground E. from the town, was destroyed
+by fire in 1891, when almost everything perished. It was immediately
+rebuilt as a Perp. structure of Runcorn stone, and consecrated in 1895.
+In the main, the plan of the old church has been followed, but the
+aisles are longer than formerly; note the fine clerestoried nave of five
+bays, and hexagonal N. porch. The old building contained monuments to
+Sir John Harrison, Kt., Farmer of Customs to Charles I. (d. 1669);[4] to
+Isabel Newmarch, maid of honour to Isabella, daughter of Charles VI. of
+France and second wife to Richard II.; and to Johannes Prest, "porter"
+(janitor) to Katherine, wife of Henry V. The two latter monuments were
+removed more than 200 years ago. Note the beautiful chestnut trees in
+the avenue near the church, and the many quaint epitaphs on the
+tombstones in the extensive graveyard. The Church of St. Andrew is
+modern; it occupies the site of an older Perp. edifice, originally
+founded before the Conquest. Close by in the market place is the Shire
+Hall, a large brick building of "questionable shape" erected towards the
+close of the eighteenth century. Malting, brewing and general trade in
+corn and its products form the larger part of the industries of
+Hertford. Between this town and Ware is the spot where Cromwell put a
+summary period to the insurrection of the "Levellers" by shooting a
+ringleader named Arnald.
+
+[Footnote 4: This Sir John Harrison erected the fine brick mansion in
+Balls Park, S.E. from Hertford, once the property of Charles Townsend,
+Secretary of State to George II. His widow built four almshouses at
+Butchery Green, long ago decayed.]
+
+_Hertford Heath._ (See Amwell, Little.)
+
+HERTINGFORDBURY may be visited from Hertford, the station (G.N.R.)
+being 11/2 mile S.W. The village is pleasantly situated on the river
+Maran, on the S. confines of Panshanger Park. The church, partly rebuilt
+by Earl Cowper in 1890-3, was founded during the fifteenth century. It
+contains little of architectural interest, but the monuments are
+numerous: (1) marble mosaic altar tomb to Sir W. Harrington, with
+alabaster effigies of himself and wife and inscription in rhyme; (2)
+slab to Thomas Ellis (d. 1608) and Grace his wife (d. 1612); (3)
+recumbent effigy in marble to Lady Calvert, wife of Sir George Calvert,
+Kt., who died in 1622; (4) to Dr. Jonathan Browne, Dean of Hertford (d.
+1643); (5) very ancient brass inscription beneath chancel arch to two
+daughters of Robert de Louthe, and one of similar age to Robert de
+Louthe and his wife. The Cowper Chapel, N. side of chancel, contains
+many monuments to that family, particularly a fine alto-relievo by
+Roubeliac to Spencer Cowper (d. 1727), chief Justice of Chester in 1717.
+
+HEXTON (about 6 miles N.W. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.) lies on a
+tongue of the county surrounded W., N. and E. by Bedfordshire. The
+Church of St. Faith, W. from the village, was rebuilt, with the
+exception of the embattled tower, in 1824, as a Perp. edifice. The St.
+Nicholas Chapel, N. side of chancel, takes the place of the chapel
+bearing the same name in the former church. There is a memorial to Peter
+Taverner (d. 1601), who was, I suppose, father to that Francis
+Taverner, Esq., who compiled a record of the antiquities of Hexton and
+set it in the chapel. Little space can be spared for excerpts in this
+volume, but the details which Taverner brought together are so
+interesting that I transcribe a part of them from a copy in my
+possession:--
+
+"Near unto the Roman military Way called Icknild or Ikenild-Street,
+which passeth by this Parish upon a very high Hill is to be seen a
+warlike Fort of great Strength, and ancient Works, which seemeth to have
+been a Summer standing Camp of the Romans: And near it on the Top of
+another Hill called Wayting-Hill, a Hillock was raised up, such as the
+Romans were wont to rear for Souldiers slain, wherein many Bones have
+been found. The Saxons call'd this Fort Ravensburgh, from a City in
+Germany, whereof the Duke of Saxony beareth the Title of Lord at this
+Day. And this Town, which the Britains perhaps call'd Hesk of Reed,
+which doth abound much in this Place; the Sazons call'd Heckstanes-Tune,
+that is the Town of Reed and Stones, if not rather Hockstanes-Tune, that
+is, the Town of Mire and Stones, for old Englishmen, call deep Mire,
+Hocks: Or may be from Grates set in Rivers or Waters before Floodgates,
+which are call'd Hecks; neither is it unlikely but that the Danes made
+some Use of this Fort, for a Parcel of Ground near thereunto is called
+Dane-Furlong to this Day. Some of these Conjectures may be true, but
+this is certain, that Offa, a Saxon King, of the Mertians about 795,
+founded the Monastery of St. Albans, in Memory of St. Alban, and that
+Sexi an honourable and devout Dane (as it is in the Chartulary of the
+Abby) about Anno Dom. 1030, gave to the said Monastery the Town of
+Heckstane-Tune and the Abbot of St. Albans held this Mannor in the time
+of King William the Conqueror.
+
+"This Vill at that time did lie in the Half-hundred of Hiz, and from
+that time during the Space of 510 Years, the Abbots of St. Albans were
+Lords of the Mannors now call'd Hexton. They were also Patrons of this
+Church (dedicated to St. Faith, which Saint had her Statue erected over
+a Fountain near this Church Yard, call'd St. Faith's Well) for John de
+Hertford, the 23d Abbot, did appropriate this Church of Hexstoneston to
+the said Monastery. The Cellarers of which Monastery kept the Court Leet
+and the Court Baron, and received the Rents of the Demeasnes and
+Customary Tenants of this Mannor; and the Sacrists had the disposing of
+the Profits of the Rectory.
+
+"The said Fort, which the common People call Ravensborough Castle, is
+cast up in the Form of an Oval, and containeth sixteen Acres, one Rood,
+and fifteen Poles of Ground, and is naturally strengthened with mighty
+deep and very steep Combs, which the inhabitants call Lyn.
+
+"The Town of Hexton is seated at the Foot of the Mountains, whence issue
+many Springs of Water; the Mountains are a continued Rock of Stone."
+
+HIGH CROSS (3 miles N. from Ware) is a village and parish on the Old
+North Road. It has a modern Dec. church of grey stone, containing
+several good stained-glass windows, but little of architectural
+interest. _Youngsbury_, a beautiful but small park, S. from the village,
+has a fine Georgian residence (C. B. Giles-Puller, Esq.). The little
+river Rib skirts the park on the S. side. There is a small hamlet of the
+same name 11/4 mile S.W. from[j] Radlett Station (M.R.).
+
+_High Street_ is a small hamlet on the Cambridge Road, near the river
+Quin. Braughing Station (G.E.R.) is 11/4 mile S.
+
+_High Wych_ (2 miles N. from Harlow Station, Essex) has an E.E. church,
+built in 1861; the marble reredos, finely worked, was added in 1871. The
+trade in malt is large for so small a place.
+
+_Highley Hill_ (1 mile S.W. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) is on the
+Cambridgeshire border.
+
+HINXWORTH, formerly Hamsteworde and Henxworth (4 miles N. from Baldock),
+is close to the Bedfordshire border. The parish is very ancient. The
+church of St. Nicholas was erected about 1400 on the site of an earlier
+structure. It is a mixture of several styles, partly restored in 1881.
+Note (1) two canopied Perp. niches in S.E. angle of nave, where was
+formerly the lady-chapel; (2) brass to John Lambard, a master of the
+Mercers' Company (d. 1487), and Anne his wife; (3) oak roof in
+chancel, added in 1892; (4) rood-stairs. William I. divided the _vill_
+between three Normans, Peter de Valoignes, Hardwin de Scalers, and
+William Earl of Ewe, who owned much other property in Hertfordshire. The
+vill was subsequently divided into two manors, one of which belonged to
+William de Cantilupe, a Steward and Councillor to King John, and the
+other, during the reign of Henry VII., to John Lambard mentioned above.
+This manor was called Pulter; and the old house (now _Hinxworth Place_,
+1/2 mile S. from the village) was once inhabited by some Cistercian monks
+of the Monastery of Pipewell (Northants). Note the clunch walls and
+mullioned windows, in one of which, designed in stained glass, are the
+armorial bearings of three former owners. Two hundred years ago the
+village consisted of thirty-five dwellings, three of which were
+almshouses.
+
+[Illustration: HITCHIN]
+
+HITCHIN is an ancient town, full of interest, 32 miles N. from King's
+Cross, G.N.R. It was formerly called Hitche, very probably from the
+little river Hiz, which rises at Well Head, about 11/2 mile S.W. from the
+centre of the town. Roman coins and pottery, and even prehistoric
+implements have been found in great quantities in the neighbourhood, and
+there are traces of a prehistoric lake bed, to the S.E. _The Priory_,
+immediately S. (R. H. J. Delme-Radcliffe, Esq., J.P.), occupies the site
+of a Carmelite monastery and Conventual church founded in the reign of
+Edward II.; and the Biggin Almshouses, close to the church, still
+preserve some of the old fabric of the Gilbertine Nunnery, founded in
+the reign of Edward III. The Church of St. Mary (formerly St. Andrew),
+just off the N.E. corner of the market-place, is thought to be the
+largest parish church in the county, the other claimant for that honour
+being St. Peters, Great Berkhampstead. The whole structure is embattled.
+The square W. tower is of unusual size, but low in proportion. Entering
+by the fine old S. porch we notice the niches for statues, none of which
+remain, and the vaulted roof, badly battered and marred by--as is
+supposed--the zealous iconoclasts of Cromwell's army. Opposite, over the
+N. porch, hangs a painting of the Adoration of the Magi, believed to be
+by Rubens; it was formerly over the communion table. The church has been
+restored at intervals since 1858; but the fine Perp. aisle-roofs still
+remain. The font, of Ketton stone, is ancient, and formerly had statues
+of the twelve Apostles in niches; these, however, have been mutilated
+almost beyond recognition; the beautiful oak canopy is new. Note the
+effigy in stone lying in the recess of the first window of the N. aisle,
+believed to be that of Bernard de Baliol, founder of the Preceptory of
+Knights Templars at Temple Dinsley (3 miles S.), and the mosaics of the
+reredos, representing the Last Supper, Christ and the woman of Samaria,
+Moses striking the rock, and other subjects from Scripture. The screens
+of carved oak, between the aisles and chancel aisles, are among the
+finest in the county. Memorials are numerous; some ancient brasses
+having been brought to light during restoration. Among the brasses are
+one (1) to John Beel, Margary his wife, and their eight children (1477);
+this is near the pulpit; (2) to James Hert, B.D. (d. 1498); (3) to John
+Pulter, a draper (d. 1421), and his wife Alice, the effigies almost
+obliterated; (4) to Nicholas Mattok, and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1485);
+this Nicholas was a fishmonger of London, and a merchant of the staple
+of Calais; (5) portion of a brass, near the chancel steps, to John
+Sperehawke, D.D., Canon of Wells (d. 1474).
+
+Adjoining the W. end of the churchyard is Golden Square, once the
+residence of Eugene Aram, from which we may pass into Bancroft, one of
+the widest thoroughfares in the county. Close by is Tilehouse Street;
+the Baptist Chapel, on the left, some way up the street, was restored in
+1894: it stands on the site of the building in which Bunyan preached; a
+chair which he gave is still shown in the vestry. It may here be
+mentioned that George Whitefield and George Fox are both known to have
+visited Hitchin during their missionary wanderings. A little farther W.
+is Mount Pleasant, thought to be the birthplace of George Chapman, the
+translator of Homer. That he finished his translation in this
+neighbourhood is matter of knowledge; but what is told of his family
+connections with Hitchin is little more than conjecture.
+
+Between the town and the station, G.N.R., stands a modern church of red
+brick, dressed with Bath stone, E. Dec. in style. There are good oak
+stalls and a sedile in the chancel.
+
+Hitchin was noted during the sixteenth century for its trade in wood and
+malt. There were at one time tan-yards beside the Hiz, and the
+buckle-makers of Bucklersbury gave that street its name. The
+malting-yards occupied much of the ground on both sides of Bancroft. The
+making of lavender water in the town is referred to in the Introduction.
+
+HOCKERIL is now the E. suburb of Bishop's Stortford, the bridge over the
+Stort, near the Old Black Lion, connecting it with the town. It has a
+modern Gothic church. The E. extremity of Hockeril is almost on the
+border line between Hertfordshire and Essex.
+
+HODDESDON (11/2 mile N. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is an ancient
+market town, lying on high ground among beautifully diversified
+surroundings. It is known, at least by name, to all readers of _The
+Complete Angler_; but the old Thatched House, to which Izaak Walton
+often resorted, has long been a thing of the past. The Bull Inn still
+remains where it stood in the time of Prior, whose allusion to it in his
+_Down Hall_ is invariably quoted in local handbooks:
+
+    "Into an old inn did this equipage roll,
+      At a town they call Hod'sdon, the sign of the Bull,
+    Near a nymph with an urn that divides the highway,
+      And into a puddle throws mother of tea".
+
+The stone figure to which Prior refers is no longer to be seen. At the
+S. end of the High Street, on the right when entering the town from
+Broxbourne, stands _Rawdon House_, an embattled Jacobean mansion of red
+brick, built by Sir Marmaduke Rawdon in 1622. It was restored in 1877,
+and the stucco with which it was formerly coated was removed. A tower,
+with cupola roof, is at the rear of the house, which is now a convent
+for Augustinian nuns.
+
+The Church of St. Catherine, close to the site of the old Thatched
+House, but W. from the opposite side of the High Street, dates from
+1732; the tower was added in 1888. It is a large building of red-brick,
+in mixed styles, with small windows of stained glass in the chancel. It
+is not interesting.
+
+_Hollesmore End_ (2 miles W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small
+hamlet.
+
+HOLWELL is a village and parish transferred from Bedfordshire to
+Hertfordshire in 1897. It is about 11/2 mile N.E. from Pirton (_q.v._);
+the nearest station is Henlow, M.R., 2 miles N. The Church of St. Peter,
+very much restored, was originally Perp. There is a xii century holy
+water basin, and a very curious old brass to Robert Wodehouse, a priest
+(1515), with figures of two _wodehowses_ (wild forest men) and of a
+chalice and paten.
+
+_Hook's Cross_ (2 miles E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+on the main road from Hertford to Stevenage. _Frogmore Hall_ stands in
+a small park 1/2 mile E.; it is a large modern mansion of red brick and
+stone facings. The grounds are very picturesque, and are divided by the
+river Beane.
+
+HORMEAD, GREAT (21/2 miles E. from Buntingford), has a restored fifteenth
+century church, perhaps 1400-20, containing a brass to a benefactor, one
+William Delawood (1694) and a mural monument to Lieut.-Col. Stables,
+killed at Waterloo. The village is close to the river Quin, which flows
+between the church and Hare Street on the Cambridge Road.
+
+_Hormead, Little_ (1/2 mile S. from the above), has a quaint little Norman
+and E.E. church on the hill crest overlooking Hare Street. Leaving the
+Cambridge Road at the S. end of that village, and crossing the river
+Quin, the rounded arch of the Norman doorway on the N. side of the nave
+catches the eye as we approach the village. The door itself is partly of
+wrought iron work, seventeenth century; an engraving of it is in
+Cussans' _History of Hertfordshire_. There is excellently preserved work
+in the Norman nave. It has been surmised that "Hormede" was formerly one
+_vill_, that it was divided soon after 1100, and the two churches built
+on the hill less than 1/2 mile apart. Ralph Baugiard and Eustace, Earl of
+Boulogne, together held the manor of "Hormede" at the time of the Great
+Survey, and the names Hormead Magna and Hormead Parva are of later
+origin.
+
+_Horse Shoes_ (1/2 a mile N. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+in the parish of Colney Heath.
+
+_Howe Green_, a small hamlet, is 11/4 mile S. from Cole Green Station,
+G.N.R. Pretty walks may be taken S. to Bedwell Park, or N.W. to the mill
+on the Lea, Rye Croft, and Mill Green.
+
+HUNSDON (2 miles N.E. from Roydon Station, Essex) is a very ancient
+village. The E. Perp. church of flint is thought to date from 1400, and
+the N. porch of oak is probably coeval with the main structure. Note the
+finely carved Jacobean screen which divides the Cary Chapel in the S.
+transept from the nave, and, in the chapel, the imposing monument and
+alabaster effigies to Sir John Cary (d. 1617) and his wife. The monument
+is built into the wall; behind it is a rather long, but historically
+important inscription:--"Here resteth in Peace Sir John Cary, Knight,
+Baron of Hunsdon (being the fourth Son to the Right Honorable Henry
+Baron of Hunsdon) and the Lady Mary Hunsdon his Wife, Daughter to
+Leonard Hide of Throcking in the county of Hertford, Esq.; The Said Sir
+John Cary was sent to Barwick by the late Queen Elizabeth of Famous
+Memory, in the Year of our Lord, 1593, to be Marshall of the Town of
+Barwick, and Captain of Norham; afterwards he was made Governor of the
+said Town and Garrison of Barwick, and Lord Warden of the East Marches
+of England,... Scotland, and so he remained until he returned into
+England with the most famous King James, where he entered into the
+Possession of the Crown of England; and so having two Sons and two
+Daughters ended this transitory Life, in an assured Hope to rise again
+in Christ." In the chancel windows are some white roses, and a badge of
+the House of York; note also the canopies in these windows, and the
+figures of Apostles in the W. window. On the N. wall of nave is a fine
+brass to James Gray, showing a man shooting at deer with a crossbow;
+this Gray was gamekeeper for thirty-five years at _Hunsdon House_.
+Bishop Ridley preached from the pulpit on several occasions.
+
+_Hunsdon House_ stands between the church and Gilston Park. During the
+reign of Edward IV., Sir John Oldhall "built here a fair House after the
+mode of a Castle ... which building, 'tis said, cost L7,222". This would
+be an enormous sum of money in those days. The original structure had a
+high tower and large courtyard. Henry VIII. made the house a palace, and
+in so doing appears to have almost rebuilt it; it is known that his
+children were often here, as the King had a high opinion of
+Hertfordshire air. Queen Elizabeth gave the estate to Sir Henry Cary,
+Kt., her cousin, and created him Baron Hunsdon. The "palace" was
+surrounded by a moat, crossed by two bridges; the grand entrance and
+lofty clock tower, the outhouses and grounds are elaborately depicted in
+a print in Chauncy's _History_. The present house was erected at the
+beginning of this century, partly on a fresh site, but some portions of
+what was the W. extremity of the old palace are built into the E. wing.
+Two fine Jacobean chimney-pieces still remain; but little else is left
+of the old Tudor home, and the moat has been levelled. The present
+house, however, is an imposing, even noble structure of red brick, and
+its position, backed by the grand old elms in the park, is very
+picturesque. N.E. stood Hunsdon Lodge, the hunting lodge of Queen
+Elizabeth.
+
+HUNTON BRIDGE is a pleasant little village at the meeting of the roads
+from Watford, King's Langley, and St. Albans, on the Grand Junction
+Canal. The nearest station is King's Langley (L.&N.W.R.), 11/4 mile N.
+There is a good modern inn and many pretty cottages, and folk in search
+of rest and quiet might journey farther and find less suitable
+retirement. The nearest church is at Langleybury (_q.v._).
+
+ICKLEFORD, formerly Ickleton, is a village on the Roman Icknield Way,
+which at this spot fords the little river Hiz; hence its name. It is 2
+miles N. from Hitchin. The church was restored in 1860; but portions of
+the ancient fabric have been carefully retained, and a small chapel
+added to the chancel. The tower is Norman, as are also part of the nave
+arcade and the S. doorway. The chancel arch, pointed, is finely carved;
+the stairs to the rood-loft still remain; there is a piscina in the
+chancel. Note brass to Thomas Somer and his wife (_circa_ 1400). S. from
+the church is _Ickleford Manor_, in a small park, for some years the
+residence of Commander H. C. Dudley Ryder, R.N. It is not of historic
+interest.
+
+IPPOLLITTS or St. Ippolitts (2 miles S.E. from Hitchin) was formerly
+called Hippolits, Eppalets or Pallets, according to the taste of the
+speaker. It was thought by Norden to owe its name to Hippolits, a
+supposed Saint, who was very skilful in the treatment of horses. After
+the Saint's death a shrine was placed to his honour in the parish
+church, and to this shrine near the high altar divers persons brought
+their ailing steeds to be healed by the attendant priest with the help
+of relics of the Saint. The relics were of efficacy commensurate with
+the gifts of those who desired the Saint's blessing! "The horses," says
+one writer, "were brought out of the North Street, through the North
+Gate, and the North Door of the Church, which was boarded on purpose to
+bring up the horses to the Altar." The church was restored in 1878; it
+is of flint and rubble, and is now chiefly Perp. and Dec. with a few
+older portions. Note (1) ambry and double piscina in the chancel; (2)
+brass in N. transept to Robert Poydres (d. 1401); (3) brasses in
+chancel, with effigies, to the Hughes family, one of whom, Alice, was
+daughter of Thomas Bybsworth, "an ancient dweller in this parish"; she
+died 1594. There is a tumulus about 1 mile S.
+
+KELSHALL (21/2 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) has a restored,
+but interesting church, dedicated to St. Faith, partly Perp. and partly
+Dec. Over the S. porch is a small chamber, and in the N. aisle is a
+recess, the nature of which is not quite understood, but it was probably
+used for the safe-keeping of banner-staves, crosses and other
+pre-Reformation ornaments. There is a brass with two effigies to
+"Rychard Adane and Maryon his Wyff" (d. 1400 and 1435 respectively). In
+the churchyard is an old sundial on the shaft of a stone cross. John
+Janeway, a young divine of astonishing spirituality, whose _Life_, by
+his brother James, was subsequently prefaced by Robert Hall, was buried
+here in 1657: Richard Baxter was one of his admirers. The Manor of
+_Chelesell_ was the property of the Abbot of Ely at the time of the
+Conquest, having been given to that ancient foundation by the father of
+Edward the Confessor.
+
+_Kensworth_ was transferred to Bedfordshire in 1897.
+
+KIMPTON (about 23/4 miles N. from Wheathampstead Station) lies between the
+hills that lead N. to Whitwell and S.E. to Ayot St. Lawrence. The
+village is very ancient, and was called _Kimeton_ in Saxon days. The
+church, a little N. from the centre of the village, has been much
+restored: the N. aisle was added in 1861; the tower and the N. porch
+(over which is a parvise, as at Kelshall) were restored in 1887-8; the
+chancel in 1890, when the reredos was added. The building is E.E. Note
+the finely carved oak screen separating the S. aisle from the Dacre
+Chapel, formerly the rood screen, the piscina in the chapel itself, and
+the stained glass in the E. window to Thomas, twenty-second Baron Dacre
+(d. 1890), to whom the reredos is also a memorial. _Kimpton Hoo_, in a
+beautiful park of about 250 acres, is 1 mile N.E. from the village. It
+is the seat of Viscount Hampden. Pretty walks may be taken E. _via_
+Kimpton Mill to Codicote, N. to Bendish and Whitwell, W. to Peter's
+Green, or S. to Lamer Park.
+
+KING'S LANGLEY is a large and interesting village. The river Gade flows
+between the main street and the station, L.&N.W.R.[k] Paper and straw
+plait are both made largely. The village owes its name to the fact that
+Henry III. built a palace on a spot still marked by a few fragments of
+ruin a little W. from the church, and the royal manor became known as
+Langley Regis, whereas the Langley on the E. side of the river belonged
+to the Abbey of St. Albans, and was called Abbot's Langley (_q.v._).
+Edmund de Langley, fifth son of Edward III., was born in this palace in
+1344. He became Duke of York, Earl of Cambridge and Lord Tivedale, and
+married Isabel, a younger daughter of Don Pedro of Castile. In 1392
+Richard II., with his first Queen, Anne of Bohemia, and many bishops,
+earls, lords and ladies, kept Christmas at King's Langley Palace.
+
+Near the palace was founded, by one Roger Helle, a priory of Dominican
+monks, which was enriched by Edward II. and several successive monarchs.
+The body of Piers Gaveston was brought from Oxford and buried in the
+church of this priory in 1315--he was beheaded on Blacklow Hill in
+1312--and what was then believed to be the body of Richard II. was
+brought to the same spot in 1400 for temporary sepulture. The priory was
+dissolved, like most priories, in the days of Henry VIII.; but it was
+restored by Mary. It was finally suppressed soon after the accession of
+Elizabeth. The church, at the S.E. extremity of the village street, is a
+Perp. structure of flint and Totternhoe stone; the W. tower is embattled
+and has an angle turret. It has been partially restored. On the N. side
+of the chancel stood formerly the tomb of Edmund de Langley and Isabel
+of Castile (both mentioned above) which was brought from the priory
+church at the Dissolution; it is now in the chapel at the end of the N.
+aisle. There is, I believe, no absolute proof that this is the tomb of
+Edmund and Isabel, but the evidence that it is so is very strong.
+Chauncy, two centuries back, wrote: "On the north side of the chancel
+there is a Monument raised about five foot, with the Arms of France and
+England, with three Labels upon it, also the Arms of Peter, King of
+Castile and Leons, by which Coats it seems to be the Tomb where Edmond
+de Langley, the Fifth Son of Edward III. and Isabel his Wife, one of the
+Daughters of Don Pedro, King of Castile, was [were] interr'd". During
+the removal of the tomb to its present position the bones of a male and
+two females were discovered; they are presumably those of Edmund and
+Isabel, and of Anne Mortimer, the wife of Edmund's second son, Richard,
+Earl of Cambridge. The tomb is covered by a slab 7 feet 3 inches long;
+the sides are embossed with Plantagenet shields within cusps. Note the
+beautifully carved open screen between chapel and chancel, and the
+reredos, partly of marble, erected in 1877. The oaken pulpit is Perp.
+There are several other monuments: (1) to Hon. Sir W. Glascocke of
+Aldamhowe, Kt., Admiralty Judge in Ireland under Charles II. (d. 1688);
+(2) brass to John Carter, "late of Gifres" (d. 1588); the inscription
+states that he had two wives, that the first bore him four sons and five
+daughters and the second five sons and four daughters; (3) brass to
+William Carter and Alice his wife, 1528.
+
+Sir John Evans, in 1862, found an almond-shaped river-drift flint
+implement on a heap of stones in this neighbourhood.
+
+KING'S WALDEN (about 5 miles S.W. from Hitchin) has an ancient church,
+carefully restored in 1868. It stands in the park of _The Bury_, a large
+mansion, Elizabethan in style. The embattled tower has masonry probably
+older than fourteenth century, and much of the nave arcade is Norman.
+Note the sculptured capitals of pillars, curiously similar to those at
+Old Shoreham. The chancel arch is E. Perp.; probably substituting its
+E.E. predecessor on very close lines; the corbels bear busts thought to
+resemble Henry VI. and Margaret of Anjou. In the chancel are a double
+piscina, and two E.E. lancet windows. The chancel screen is a really
+wonderful piece of work, in excellent preservation. In the N. aisle is
+an ambry, and in the S. aisle a sedile and two piscinae, and on the N.
+side another ambry. The font stands at the E. end of S. aisle, formerly
+the Chapel of the Virgin Mary.
+
+_Kinsbourne Green_ is on the Bedfordshire border, 2 miles N.E. from
+Harpenden. The Kennels of the Hertfordshire Hunt are here. The hamlet is
+close to Luton Hoo Park.
+
+_Kitter's Green_ is a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from King's Langley Station
+(L.&N.W.R.). Abbot's Langley old church (_q.v._) is 1/2 mile N.
+
+[Illustration: KNEBWORTH PARK]
+
+KNEBWORTH, famous as the home of Bulwer Lytton, lies on high ground 1
+mile W. from the station (G.N.R.). The village is small, and in itself
+of little interest; it was formerly called Chenepeworde, and
+Knebbeworth. It is, however, ancient, and was valued in _Domesday Book_.
+
+Sir Thomas Bouchier, K.G., who fought for the Earl of Richmond at
+Bosworth Field, sold the manor of Knebbeworth to Robert Lytton, Esq.,
+Keeper of the Wardrobe to Henry VII., whose son William was buried in
+this parish. This Sir Robert began to erect a huge Tudor mansion on the
+site of a fortress which had stood since the days of the Conquest; it
+took several generations to complete it. The present house is the result
+of the work of demolition and reconstruction in the days of the
+novelist's mother, and of the enlarging of 1883, when the S. wing and
+entrance were added; it is pseudo-Gothic. The castellated parapet,
+cupola-topped turrets, griffins upon pinnacles and many mullioned
+windows are noticeable features from the grounds. Within, the finest
+sight is the grand old banqueting hall, with its gallery for minstrels,
+its Elizabethan oak-screen, and wainscots by Inigo Jones. Around, on all
+sides, are suits of armour, some dating from the days of Henry VII. The
+room is associated with memories of Elizabeth, who was sometimes
+entertained at Knebworth by Sir Rowland Lytton, whom she knighted; he
+was buried in the chancel of the little church in the park (see below)
+in 1582. The room in which Elizabeth slept on these occasions is still
+shown as "Queen Elizabeth's Chamber," and contains a finely carved
+over-mantel (oak) and an oaken bedstead of colossal proportions. Among
+the distinguished guests so often entertained here by Bulwer Lytton were
+Dickens, Forster and Jerrold.
+
+The grounds are nearly perfect, art and nature seaming to strive to
+out-do one another. Well-kept lawns are figured by flower-beds of all
+shapes and sizes; the rosery is very large; the great variety of
+evergreens imparts every hue and shade to the extensive walks stretching
+W. from the house. The lawns are divided here and there by stone
+balustrades and overlooked by statues of classical and modern figures.
+There are many nooks, pleasure houses and alcoves. A long avenue of
+limes leads to the lake.
+
+The church, a little N. from the house, is approached through lodge
+gates. It is for the most part E.E. The oaken pulpit is octagonal; the
+finely carved panels represent scenes in the life of Christ, one of them
+bears the date 1567. At the N. side of the chancel, which has a piscina,
+is the Lytton Chapel, "a little Chapel or Burying Place, built by the
+Family of the Lyttons". Among the members of the family buried in the
+chapel were (1) Dame Judith Barrington, daughter of Sir Rowland Lytton,
+and wife to Sir Thomas Barrington of Hatfield Broad Oak (d. 1657); (2)
+Sir William Lytton, Kt. (d. 1660); (3) Sir Rowland Lytton, Kt. (d.
+1674). To the Sir Rowland Lytton who died in 1582 (see above) there is a
+fine brass with effigy, which also commemorates his wives Margaret and
+Anne, and his three children. There are other memorials both in the
+church and Lytton Chapel, among which note (1) brass to Simon Bache,
+Treasurer of the Household to Henry V. and Canon of St. Paul's (d.
+1414); (2) brass to John Hotoft, who filled the same office in the
+Household of Henry VI. (d. _circa_ 1430). This brass formerly showed
+effigies of Hotoft in armour with his wife beside him. Note also, near
+the S. porch, two headstones with interesting inscriptions to servants
+of the Lytton family, and close by, in the park, the mausoleum erected
+by the mother of the novelist, who was buried within its walls. The
+epitaph to her memory on the exterior was written by her son. Passing
+out at the lodge gates we may turn left and reach a pretty dip, from
+whence a walk of 3 miles N. over open country leads to Stevenage.
+
+_Knebworth Green_ skirts the S. side of the park.
+
+_Langley_, a hamlet on the Hatfield-Hitchin road, is 2 miles S.W. from
+Stevenage Station (G.N.R.). Langley Bottom is a few minutes' walk N.
+
+_Langleybury_ (1 mile S. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is
+practically part and parcel of Hunton Bridge, the church standing W. and
+the village E. of the main road from Watford to Hemel Hempstead. The
+church is modern, a Gothic structure; on the S. is a good lich-gate.
+Close to the S. porch is the large cross of Sicilian marble, by the
+Florentine sculptor Romanelli, to the memory of the late W. J. Loyd, at
+whose expense the church was erected. The walk from Langleybury to
+Buck's Hill (W.), by way of West Wood, leads through some lovely bits of
+scenery, and should on no account be omitted. At the outset the confines
+of Grove Park are on the left and the road dips up and down as the woods
+are passed, and is shaded by fine beeches in many spots.
+
+_Layston_ was a village in Saxon times, but nothing now remains save the
+ruins of the church, still almost intact, at the meeting of two lanes, 1
+mile N.E. from Buntingford. It is a flint structure, E.E. and Perp. The
+S. porch is in part demolished. There are monuments to the Crowch family
+of seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
+
+LEA, river. (See Introduction, Section II.)
+
+LEAVESDEN (about 21/2 miles N. from Watford) is a village in the pretty
+district between Grove Park and Bricket Wood. The ecclesiastical parish
+was formed seventy years ago from the parishes of Watford and St.
+Albans. The huge brick building on high ground a little N. is the
+Metropolitan District Asylum for Idiots; it was erected in 1869. The
+church dates only from the formation of the parish and is situated at
+Garston, 1 mile E. It was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott and is E.E. _The
+Grove_, a large mansion of red brick, was erected in 1760 by one of the
+Villiers family, but has been restored and altered. The house contains a
+part of the pictures collected by Clarendon; comprising portraits by
+Vandyck, Lely, C. Janssens, Zucchero, Van Somer, Kneller, Hogarth, etc.
+The park is extensive and beautiful.
+
+LEMSFORD is another modern ecclesiastical parish, formed sixty years
+ago. It is nearly 3 miles N. from Hatfield, on the S.E. side of _Brocket
+Hall Park_. It is widely known for its large mill on the river Lea. The
+church, erected in 1859 as a memorial to the sixth Earl Cowper, is E.E.
+and Dec., with a good E. window, also to the memory of the earl. The
+tower (W.) is lofty and embattled.
+
+_Letchmore Heath_ (11/2 mile S.W. from Radlett Station, M.R.) is a small
+village.
+
+_Letchworth_ (2 miles N.E. from Hitchin) has a small Perp. church,
+containing a curious old brass to Thomas Wyrley, an early Rector (d.
+1475). The effigy represents him with a heart in his hands. Another
+brass, much defaced, dates from _circa_ 1400; it is to William Overbury
+and Isabel his wife. The village, which almost adjoins that of Willian
+(_q.v._), is ancient, and was once the property of Robert Gernon, a
+Norman warrior who fought at Hastings. There was a church at _Leceworth_
+at least as early as _temp._ Henry I., for during the reign of that
+monarch it was given "with all its appurtenances and twelve acres of
+land" to the monastery at St. Albans. _Letchworth Hall_, now a manor
+house containing some good carved oak, was built by Sir William Lytton
+(_circa_ 1620), and still bears on the S. front the arms of that family.
+
+_Letty Green_ is close to Cole Green Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Levens Green_ (1 mile S. from Great Munden) has a tiny chapel-of-ease
+erected in 1893. The nearest station is Standon, G.E.R., 21/2 miles E.,
+between which and the hamlet lies the Old North Road.
+
+LEVERSTOCK GREEN (11/2 mile S.E. from Hemel Hempstead Station, M.R.) is in
+a pleasantly diversified district, at the junction of the roads from St.
+Albans and Abbot's Langley. It has a modern church, Gothic in style,
+erected just before the district was constituted an ecclesiastical
+parish in 1850.
+
+_Ley Green_ is a hamlet 1 mile N. from King's Walden Church, and about 4
+miles S.W. from Hitchin. It is on high ground.
+
+LILLEY, a village on the Bedfordshire border, is 4 miles N.E. from Luton
+(Beds). It was formerly called Lindley, and Lilly Hoo, and the old
+manor, like so many others, was given to a Norman (Goisfride de Bech)
+for services rendered at Hastings. The church is of ancient foundation,
+but was rebuilt, in E. Dec. style, in 1870-71. Several old memorials are
+still preserved, notably those to the Docwra family, early seventeenth
+century. _Putteridge Bury_ (1 mile S.) is in the centre of a park of 450
+acres; on or near the site of the house built by Thomas Docwra, J.P. and
+High Sheriff of Herts, who died there in 1602. The present mansion dates
+from the beginning of last century.
+
+_Little Heath_ is on the Middlesex border, 1 mile N.E. from Potter's Bar
+Station. The Dec. church, just off the Barnet-Hatfield road, is new.
+
+LONDON COLNEY, a village on the main road from Barnet to St. Albans, is
+on the river Colne. The nearest station is that of the G.N.R. at St.
+Albans, 21/4 miles N.W. The church, built by the third Earl of Hardwicke
+in 1825, is a plain brick structure of Gothic character. Half a mile E.
+is _Tittenhanger Park_, a large brick mansion with tiled roof and dormer
+windows, built by Sir Henry Blount in 1654. The manor had belonged to
+the Abbots of St. Albans, who had a residence on the same spot,
+commenced during the abbacy of John de la Moote and completed during
+that of John Wheathampsted. Henry VIII. and Catherine of Arragon stayed
+here during the "sweatinge sicknesse" (1528).
+
+_Long Lane_ is a hamlet near the river Chess, 11/2 mile S.W. from
+Rickmansworth.
+
+_Long Marston_, 1 mile N. from the Aylesbury Canal, is a village and
+ecclesiastical parish in the extreme W. of the county. The nearest
+station is Marston Gate, 1 mile N. The old church, a small Dec.
+structure, was pulled down twenty years ago with the exception of the
+tower, which stands in the disused graveyard. The new building,
+adjoining the present burial ground, is Gothic, and contains some
+portions of the old structure, and its two piscinae.
+
+_Lower Green._ (See Tewin.)
+
+_Ludwick Hyde_ is in the parish of Hatfield, 3 miles N.E. from that
+town.
+
+_Luffenhall_, a little hamlet, is in the hollow between Weston and
+Cottered, 5 miles W. from Buntingford Station. The district is one of
+winding lanes and field footpaths so characteristic of the county.
+
+_Lye End_, 2 miles S. from Sandon Church, is a hamlet lying W. from the
+Buntingford-Royston road.
+
+[Illustration: OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END]
+
+MACKERY END, 11/2 mile N.W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R., is close
+to Batford and Pickford mills on the river Lea. Charles and Mary Lamb
+had talked about the place "all their lives" and the essay by the former
+entitled "Mackery End in Hertfordshire" need only be named here. The
+place, as Lamb mentions, was also called Mackarel End. John
+Wheathampsted, who became thirty-third Abbot of St. Albans in 1420, was
+the son of Hugh Bostok or Bostock of the village from which he took his
+name; his mother was the daughter of Thomas Makery, "Lord of Makeyrend".
+
+_Mangrove_ is a hamlet, partly in Offley and partly in Lilley parishes;
+Mangrove Green is on the S. outskirts of Putteridge Bury Park, on the
+Bedfordshire border. The nearest station to the latter is Luton (Beds).
+
+_Maple Cross_, a hamlet 21/2 miles S.W. from Rickmansworth, is near the
+river Chess. It lies between Mill End and West Hyde, on the road to
+Uxbridge.
+
+MARAN, or MIMRAM, river. (See Introduction.)
+
+_Marford_, _Old_ and _New_, are hamlets on the river Lea. The latter
+adjoins the E. side of Wheathampstead village; the former lies 1/4 mile
+farther E.; the cress-beds, the hand-bridge over the river, and some
+dilapidated cottages render it a picturesque spot. On the opposite side
+of the road from Hatfield to Wheathampstead lies The Devil's Dyke, a
+long, narrow gorge most beautifully wooded. It is a favourite haunt of
+the nightingale, as the writer can testify.
+
+MARKET or MARKYATE STREET (31/2 miles S.W. from Luton, Beds) is a village
+on the high road from St. Albans to Dunstable. The church, a little N.
+from the village, in Cell Park, is small and uninteresting, with a
+chancel added in 1892. The mansion called Markyate Cell, a little
+farther N., is old, and occupies the site of the old Benedictine nunnery
+built by Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth Abbot of St. Albans, at the
+instigation of Roger the Monk, the church of which was consecrated in
+1145. Cowper the poet was at school in the village, at the house of Dr.
+Pitman.
+
+MARLOWES is a suburb of Hemel Hempstead (_q.v._).
+
+_Marsh Moor_ lies between Hatfield Park and Mimms Park. It is a hamlet
+in the parish of North Mimms, 2 miles S. from Hatfield.
+
+_Marston Gate_ is little more than the station (L.&N.W.R.) for Long
+Marston, 1 mile S. It is nearly the extreme W. point of the county.
+
+_Mayden Croft_, or Maiden Croft, is near the source of the river Hiz,
+with the hamlet of Gosmore adjoining (S.E.). Some remains of a moat may
+be traced, which are supposed to mark the site of a nunnery. The manor
+is ancient; in the time of Edward III. it belonged to Sir Robert Nevill,
+Kt.
+
+MEESDON (61/2 miles N.E. from Buntingford) has a very ancient flint
+church, probably erected in the thirteenth century, but restored in
+1877. The S. porch is Jacobean. The pavement of the Sacrarium is a
+mosaic of many coloured, vitrified tiles; it is almost unique in the
+county and is undoubtedly of great age. There is also in the chancel a
+curious monument and inscription to Robert Young, gent. (d. 1626). Most
+of the population are to be found at Meesdon Green, 1/2 mile W. from the
+church.
+
+On _Metley Hill_, between the Icknield Way and the village of
+Wallington, may be seen Bush Barrow, one of the many ancient mounds in
+the county concerning which so little is known.
+
+_Micklefield Green_ (1/2 mile E. from Sarratt Church) is near the river
+Chess and the Bucks border. The nearest station is Chorley Wood (Met.
+R.) 2 miles S.W. The district is varied and undulating.
+
+MILL END (1 mile S.W. from Rickmansworth) is on the Middlesex border,
+close to the river Colne. The church (modern) is late Dec. in style, and
+has several good stained windows. The village and parish were only
+formed in 1875. There is also a hamlet of this name 11/2 mile S.W. from
+Buckland, on the Royston road.
+
+_Mill Green_, at the N. end of Hatfield Park, is a pretty hamlet on the
+Lea, near the old paper mill.
+
+MIMMS, NORTH (3 miles N.W. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R.), is in one
+of the prettiest districts in the county, although so close to
+Middlesex. The church and parsonage are in the park, 1/2 mile from the
+village. Dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, the church is Dec., unusually
+pure in style. It is said to have been built by Sir Hugh de Magneville
+(_temp._ Stephen); I should think it more probable that Geoffrey de
+Magneville, then Lord of the Manor, was the real founder, as stated by
+Chauncy. However this may be, the structure is now almost wholly of
+later date. The monuments and brasses are numerous and very interesting;
+several of the latter, now in the chancel, were moved from their
+original positions on the floor during the restoration sixty years ago.
+Among them we may note (1) large black marble monument in chancel
+surmounted by a figure of justice, to John Lord Somers, Baron of Evesham
+(d. 1716); (2) altar tomb in N. aisle, with Elizabethan effigy, to a
+Derbyshire family named Beresford; the inscription is only in part
+decipherable; (3) mutilated brass to Sir Robert Knolles (d. 14--), and
+to Elizabeth his wife (d. 1458); (4) brass to Sir Henry Covert (d.
+1488); (5) fine old brass to Richard Boteler and Martha (Olyff) his wife
+(_circa_ 1560); (6) brass, probably of Flemish workmanship, thought to
+be a memorial to William Kesteven, vicar (d. 1361). This effigy is
+closely described in Murray. "It is apparently Flemish, and resembles in
+style that of Abbot de la Mare at St. Albans. He is vested in a chasuble
+and stole, has a chalice on his breast, and over him is a rich canopy,
+with, on the dexter side, St. Peter, and underneath SS. John the
+Evangelist and Bartholomew, and in corresponding places on the sinister
+SS. Paul, James the Great, and Andrew, with their respective emblems.
+Above is the Almighty holding the soul of the deceased; at the sides
+are two angels swinging censers." Separated from the chancel by an oaken
+screen is the chantry-chapel of St. Catherine, dating from early
+fourteenth century.
+
+_North Mimms Park_ surrounds the fine Jacobean manor house of red brick,
+recently in part restored, but originally built about 1600 by Sir Ralph
+Coningsby; it is very extensive and can show some good carving, and a
+chimney-piece dating from sixteenth century. E. from this park is
+_Potterels_, a modern house standing in another but smaller park, and E.
+again from Potterels is the more famous _Brookman's Park_, where, in
+1682, Andrew Fountaine erected the mansion soon afterwards purchased by
+the great Lord Somers who died here in 1716. The house was completely
+burnt down thirty years ago and has only in part been rebuilt. The
+further stretch of park adjoining Brookman's on the S. is _Gubbins_, or
+more correctly _Gobions_, where formerly stood the old manor house in
+which Sir Thomas More lived awhile with his family. The walks in each of
+these parks are very fine, and most beautifully wooded; they command
+distant views in many directions, and, in the autumn, are a perfect
+study in colour. No London cyclist should fail to visit this picturesque
+and interesting neighbourhood.
+
+MIMMS, SOUTH, recently included in the administrative county of Herts,
+has a restored, E. Perp. church, with fine massive W. tower. The Frowyk
+chantry, at E. end of N. aisle, contains a very ancient tomb with
+recumbent effigy of a knight in armour, under a richly designed canopy.
+The knight was a Frowyk, and there are also some mutilated brasses to
+this family. The village is prettily situated on rising ground, 11/2 mile
+W. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R. (Middlesex).
+
+_Moneybury Hill_ is on the Bucks border, close to the Bridgewater
+Column, 2 miles S.W. from Tring Station.
+
+_Moor Green_ (3 miles W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet
+in Ardeley parish.
+
+_Morrell Green_ is a hamlet 2 miles E. from Barkway on the Essex border.
+The nearest station is Buntingford, nearly 6 miles S.E.
+
+_Mortgrove_, on the Beds border, is little more than a modern house, 11/2
+mile S. from Hexton.
+
+_Munches Green_ lies in the centre of that quiet district of villages
+and hamlets which stretches between the G.N.R. and G.E.R. It is a hamlet
+a little S.E. from _Ardeley Bury_ and nearly 4 miles W. from Westmill
+Station, G.E.R.
+
+MUNDEN, GREAT, formerly Mundon Furnival, from Gerrard de Furnival, who
+was Lord of the Manor in the time of Richard I., is a village 2 miles W.
+from Braughing Station, G.E.R. There is a Norman doorway on the N. side
+of the church, and a small Perp. reredos which was discovered during
+restoration in 1865. There is a brass in the chancel to John Lightfoot,
+Canon of Ely (d. 1675). The hamlet of Nasty, a little N.E. from the
+church, now takes Munden Furnival as its alternative name, but the older
+historians give that title to the district around the parish church.
+
+MUNDEN, LITTLE, or Munden Frewell, is 21/4 miles S.W. from the above, and
+4 miles W. from Standon Station, G.E.R. The church, conspicuously placed
+on the hill, dates from the thirteenth century; it was restored in
+1866-68. It is a structure of many parts, consisting of nave of three
+bays, chancel, N. chapel, N. aisle, N. and S. porches, and W. tower.
+Note the two altar tombs beneath the chancel arcade, at the S. side of
+the chapel, each supporting the stone effigies of a male and female,
+presumably man and wife. They bear no inscriptions, but from the arms
+and shields figured on one of them it is conjectured to be the tomb of
+Sir John Thornbury, Kt., and his lady; whilst the other is probably that
+of his son Philip Thornbury and his wife: the former dates from about
+1340-50. Early in the fourteenth century the manor belonged to a Knight
+named Frewell or de Freville, hence the old adjunct of the village.
+_Rowney Abbey_, now a modern mansion, takes its name from Rowenea
+Priory, founded by Conan, Duke of Brittany, about 1164, and occupied for
+several generations by a Benedictine prioress and nuns. At Munden
+Street, or Dane End, 1/4 mile S. from Little Munden, were formerly two or
+three large tumuli, long since levelled.
+
+_Nash Mills_, on the river Gade, is a hamlet in the parish of Apsley
+End, 2 miles S. from Hemel Hempstead. The House was the seat of Sir
+John Evans, K.C.B., F.R.S., etc., the great archaeologist, who had a rich
+collection of coins, prehistoric flints, implements, etc., some of which
+were discovered in the neighbourhood.
+
+_Nettleden_ was formerly in Bucks, but was transferred to Herts a few
+years ago. The village is beautifully situated at the foot of a wooded
+hill, at the meeting of the roads from Great Gaddesden and Little
+Gaddesden. The small parish church is a Perp. structure of stone, with a
+N. porch; it was partly rebuilt by the last Duke of Bridgewater, and was
+restored in 1887. Note the carved oak pulpit, which, like that in Little
+Gaddesden Church, was the gift of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888). Sir John
+Cotton, Vice-Chamberlain to Edward VI., was buried here. The nearest
+station is Berkhampstead, L.&N.W.R., 21/2 miles S.W.
+
+_New Mill_ is 1 mile N. from Tring, between the hamlets of Little Tring
+and Tring Grove. The famous reservoirs, often the resting-place of rare
+water-fowl, are within a short walk.
+
+_Newgate Street_, a small hamlet in Hatfield parish, is, however, 6
+miles S.E. from that town. It is in a prettily wooded district, close to
+_Ponsbourne Park_.
+
+NEWNHAM (21/2 miles N. from Baldock) is a village lying on high ground,
+with an E.E. battlemented church on a little knoll above a brook. It
+consists of chancel, nave of four bays with clerestory, S. aisle and
+porch, and W. tower. The interior can show little of interest, but there
+are brasses, (1) on chancel floor, to Sir William Dyer, Bart. (d.
+1680); (2) to a family, the man in civic costume (_circa_ 1490); (3) to
+Joan, wife of James Dowman (d. 1607), and her eight children.
+
+_Newsell_, a hamlet 1 mile N. from Barkway, lies a little W. from the
+Cambridge Road. The nearest station is Royston, G.N.R., 31/2 miles N.W.
+Newsell Park is a modern mansion S. from the hamlet.
+
+_No Man's Land_ is a large tract of common, partly covered by furze,
+stretching left from the road between Sandridge and Wheathampstead. Some
+years ago a farmer close by collected quite a museum of stuffed birds,
+etc., shot in the neighbourhood, which many persons visited, but I
+understand the collection is now dispersed.
+
+In 1884 Sir John Evans showed to Mr. W. G. Smith "a good white ovate
+palaeolithic implement," one of two found on No Man's Land Common. In
+December, 1886, Mr. Smith visited the gravel pits there and found a
+somewhat similar implement _in situ_; this latter is engraved in his
+_Man the Primaeval Savage_. At the same time Mr. Smith found two
+neolithic celts on the common.
+
+_Nobland Green_ (11/4 mile N.W. from Widford Station, G.E.R.) is little
+more than a farm and a few cottages.
+
+NORTHAW (2 miles E. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R.) is a village on
+the Middlesex border, near the source of the river Colne, and a place of
+considerable interest. In the wood N. from the village there lived a
+hermit named Sigar, the subject of some monkish legends. He lived about
+the time of Henry I., and was buried beside Roger the Monk (see Markyate
+Street) in the S. aisle of the Baptistery of St. Alban's Abbey. There
+was originally a small church close to the village, E.E. or perhaps late
+Norman; this was replaced by the cruciform church of St. Thomas Becket,
+a pseudo-Perp. structure, destroyed by fire in 1881; the present
+cruciform building of Ancaster stone is Dec. with a conspicuous W. tower
+carrying four pinnacles. Note the piscina, three sedilia and credence
+table in chancel; also the finely carved font of Ancaster stone, on
+marble pillars, presented by the children of the parish. There are
+several memorial windows, of only local interest; but the pulpit and
+reredos are both good, the former showing the four Evangelists in
+canopied recesses. Unfortunately, only a portion of the old registers
+were saved from the fire of 1881.
+
+NORTHCHURCH, or Berkhampstead St. Mary, forms one long street with Great
+Berkhampstead, but is a separate village, 1 mile W. from Berkhampstead
+Station, L.&N.W.R. The cruciform church is Dec.; it stands in a small
+graveyard close to the high road to Tring. The most curious memorial is
+the brass near the porch to Peter the Wild Boy, who was found wild in a
+forest in Hanover in 1725 and brought to England at the desire of Queen
+Caroline. He lived at a farm at Broadway (_q.v._) and died in 1785.
+There is also a curious sentence about this church in Chauncy: "Henry
+Axtil, a rich Man starved himself, and was buried here April 12, 1625, 1
+Car. I." The church was entirely restored in 1883, when the present N.
+aisle was added.
+
+_Northfield_, a small hamlet, is a little S. from Ivinghoe (Bucks).
+
+NORTON, near the tiny river Ivel and the Roman Icknield Way, is 1 mile
+W. from Baldock. The large building on the hill-top close by is the
+Three Counties Asylum. The manor belonged to the Abbot of St. Albans at
+the time of the Conquest; and in the year 1260 Roger de Norton, who took
+his name from this village, became the twenty-fourth abbot of that
+monastery. The church, E.E., is of great antiquity, some parts of it
+having been little altered; it is of flint, and stands at the N.E. end
+of the village. It contains two or three old memorials, but none of
+historic interest. A pretty walk from the church leads through Norton
+Bury and beside the Ivel to Radwell Mill.
+
+_Norton Green_, between Knebworth Park and Stevenage, is 1/2 mile W. from
+the Great North Road. It is a small hamlet.
+
+_Nup End_ (11/2 mile W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is almost one with
+Knebworth Green. Codicote church is 1 mile S.W.
+
+_Nuthampstead_ (about 5 miles N.E. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) is
+a large hamlet on the Essex border. The parish churches of Barkway (W.),
+Anstey (S.W.), and Meesdon (S.E.) may all be reached within a short
+walk.
+
+OFFLEY or OFFLEY ST. LEGER (3 miles S.W. from Hitchin) is a village at
+the meeting of the ways from Hitchin, Temple Dinsley, and Lilley. It
+owes its name to Offa, King of the Mercians, who had a palace here, as
+we learn from his life by Matthew Paris, and its adjunct to the St.
+Legiers, who became Lords of the Manor soon after the Conquest. Miss
+Hester Salusbury, who became Mrs. Thrale, and afterwards Mrs. Piozzi,
+used as a child to visit at _Offley Place_, in the park close to the
+church. The old mansion was built by Sir Richard Spencer in 1600, and in
+part rebuilt early last century, when its style was changed from
+Jacobean to a form of Gothic.
+
+The church (restored Perp.) stands in the park, close to the road. Note
+(1) monument in chancel to Sir H. Penrice, Kt. (d. 1752); a figure of
+Truth standing on a sarcophagus of black marble, the whole finely
+executed; (2) monument in white marble, by Nollekens, to Sir Thomas
+Salusbury, Kt. (d. 1773), and Sarah his wife (d. 1804); (3) brass with
+effigy, to John Samwell (d. 1529), and his wives Elizabeth and Joan; (4)
+brass to a civilian and his family (_circa_ 1530); (5) well carved Perp.
+font.
+
+_Offley, Little_, is a hamlet 11/4 mile N.W. from the above.
+
+_Offley Green_ is 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R. The walk
+beside Julians[l] Park to Rushden, 1 mile S.W., is very pleasant.
+
+_Offley Holes_ (21/2 miles S.W. from Hitchin) is a small hamlet. Offley
+Grange, Offley Hoo, Offley Cross and Offley Bottom are all in the
+immediate neighbourhood, W. and N.W.
+
+_Old Hall Green_ (11/2 mile W. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) lies W. from
+the Old North Road. It is a small hamlet.
+
+OXHEY (2 miles S. from Watford) is a hamlet on the Middlesex border. It
+has a good modern church, E.E. in style. N. lies _Oxhey Place_, on the
+site of the old home of the Heydon family, rebuilt by Sir William
+Bucknall in 1668, and again by Hon. William Bucknall in 1799. The
+chapel, close to the old mansions, was spared by both those renovators,
+but has since been repeatedly restored. It contains many interesting
+monuments, conspicuous among which is that on the S. wall to Sir James
+Altham (d. 1617) who had built the chapel on the site of an earlier
+structure in 1612. The old judge is represented kneeling in his robes
+between two pillars, beneath a canopy of alabaster; behind him is the
+effigy of his third wife Helen (Saunderson). Note the carved oak
+seventeenth century reredos, occupying the whole of the E. end of the
+chapel. It is divided into three compartments by two columns, massive
+and twisted, with Corinthian capitals; these support a frieze, with
+cornice and pediment. Note also the oak ceiling, and the five Tudor
+windows (replaced). _Oxhey Hall_, N.W. from the chapel, is now a farm;
+but can still show the wonderful ceiling of carved oak, in sixteen
+panels, which must be very ancient.
+
+PANSHANGER PARK, Lord Desborough, K.C.V.O, should be visited by all who
+love an historic home surrounded by beautiful scenery. It lies almost
+midway between Hatfield and Ware Parks; the house itself is 11/2 mile N.
+from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. The park is very extensive (about 900
+acres); the river Maran flows through it from W. to S.E., opening into a
+lake S. from the house. It is famous for its splendid timber; the
+wonderful "Panshanger Oak," one of the very largest in England, stands
+W. from the house.
+
+Panshanger is not a "correct" structure from an architectural
+standpoint; the writer of Murray's Handbook describes it well as "a
+stucco-fronted, semi-castellated Gothic mansion of the Walpole-Wyatt
+type". Most ramblers, however, are not architects, and the grey stone
+mansion and its surroundings are, as a whole, as picturesque as they can
+well be. The greater part of it was built by Peter, fifth Earl Cowper,
+in 1801; but the picture gallery, overlooking the terrace and gardens,
+was a later addition. The house was partially burnt in 1855. The older
+home of the family stood at Cole Green--then called Colne Green.
+
+The famous _Cowper Collection_ is largely the result of the taste and
+perseverance of the third earl, who resided for some years at Florence.
+Only a few of the pictures can be named here: Madonna, by Raphael
+(1508); Holy Family, by Fra Bartolommeo; Mountainous Coast (fishermen in
+foreground), by Salvator Rosa; Nativity, by Carlo Dolce; Virgin
+Enthroned, by Paul Veronese; Third Earl Cowper and His Family; First
+Earl Cowper, by Sir Godfrey Kneller; Francis Bacon, by Van Somer;
+Turenne, by Rembrandt; Charles Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, by
+Janssens. The whole collection is worth careful study. Permission to
+view may be obtained when the family are away.
+
+PARK STREET, a large hamlet with station 1/3 mile W. (L.&N.W.R.), is on
+the river Colne, 2 miles S. from St. Albans. The parish church is at
+Frogmore (_q.v._).
+
+_Parker's Green_ (4 miles S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) is a
+hamlet adjoining Wood End.
+
+_Patient End_ may be reached from Braughing Station, G.E.R., 4 miles
+S.E., the road being more direct than that from Westmill Station, about
+the same distance as the crow flies. The hamlet lies between Albury and
+Furneaux Pelham.
+
+_Patmore Heath_ is 1 mile S.E. from the above.
+
+_Pepperstock_, a hamlet on the Beds border, is a little W. from the
+Harpenden-Luton road, and close to Luton Hoo Park.
+
+_Perry Green_ (11/4 mile S.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R.) is a small
+scattered hamlet.
+
+_Peter's Green_, on the Beds border, lies at the meeting of several
+roads; the Half Moon and Rising Star with a few cottages comprise the
+hamlet. The descent W. towards Chiltern Green Station, M.R., commands a
+fine view, looking towards Luton Hoo Park. The several ways (one is
+hardly more than a lane) lead S.E. to Kimpton, S. to Harpenden, N. to
+Lawrence End Park, and N.E. to Breachwood Green and Bendish.
+
+_Piccotts End_ is passed when going from Hemel Hempstead to Great
+Gaddesden. It is on the river Gade, at the N.E. extremity of Gadesbridge
+Park.
+
+_Pin Green_ (11/2 mile E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) lies between the
+Great North Road and the river Beane.
+
+PIRTON (31/2 miles N.W. from Hitchin) is an ancient village on the Beds
+border, said to owe its name to one Peri, who possessed it in Saxon
+times. William I. gave it to Ralph de Limesie, or Limesy, who founded
+the church and gave the tithes of it to the Abbey of St. Albans. The
+site of the castle built by Ralph is thought to be at Toot Hill, W. from
+the church, where a moat may be traced. The church was originally
+cruciform, but the transepts have long disappeared; the tower, massive
+and embattled, still standing between nave and chancel. Restoration has
+been carefully carried on recently; the tower was rebuilt in 1877, but
+some Norman work may still be traced in its arches. Note (1) monument
+and curious inscription to Jane, wife of Thomas Docwra (d. 1645); (2)
+double piscina, fourteenth century, in S. wall of chancel.
+
+Pirton should be visited for the fine old houses in its neighbourhood.
+_High Down_, S. from the church, is Elizabethan, with gables, twisted
+chimneys and mullioned windows; it was formerly the home of the Docwras.
+_Pirton Hall_, on a hill N.W. from the village, is also Elizabethan, and
+the _Rectory Manor House_ and _Hammond's Farm_ are both ancient. In the
+latter is some fine old carved oak.
+
+_Plummers_ is 11/2 mile S.W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R. It consists of
+a few cottages.
+
+_Ponfield_ lies between Bedwell and Bayfordbury Parks. It is a small
+hamlet nearly 2 miles S.E. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Poplar's Green_ is on the river Maran, on the W. edge of Panshanger
+Park. The old church at Tewin is less than 1 mile N.W. The station is
+Cole Green.
+
+_Potten End_ (2 miles N.E. from Berkhampstead Station, L.&N.W.R.) has a
+modern chapel-of-ease to Nettleden (1 mile N.). The hamlet is prettily
+situated between the rivers Gade and Bulbourne.
+
+PRESTON (4 miles W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+beautifully situated on high ground. The Church of St. Martin is a small
+building a few yards W. from the green, a modern erection; close by is
+the Bunyan Chapel, and 1/2 mile N. is Bunyan's dell, where the author of
+the _Pilgrim's Progress_ often preached. _Temple Dinsley_, a manor house
+a little E. from the Red Lion, stands on the site of the preceptory of
+the Knights Templars, founded by Bernard de Baliol in the reign of
+Stephen.
+
+_Primrose Hill_ is a hamlet in King's Langley parish, 1/2 mile N. from the
+station, L.&N.W.R.
+
+PUCKERIDGE, a village on the Old North Road, nearly 1 mile S.W. from
+Braughing Station, G.E.R., was visited by Pepys on more than one
+occasion. Here, at the White Hart Inn, the road divides, going left
+nearly due N. to Royston and right to Cambridge. The village lies partly
+in Standon and partly in Braughing parish. The nearest church is at
+Standon, 1 mile S.E., but divine service is conducted in the church
+schoolroom.
+
+_Puddephats_ (3 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet in
+Flamstead parish.
+
+_Purwell Mill_, on the river Purwell or Pirrel, 1 mile E. from Hitchin,
+stands near the spot where the tesselated pavement of a Roman villa was
+discovered many years ago, in excellent preservation.
+
+PUTTENHAM (11/2 mile S. from Marston Gate Station, L.&N.W.R.) lies near
+the Clinton chalk hills, in the extreme W. of the county, on the Bucks
+border. The church, close to the village, is of several periods, parts
+of the structure being E.E. and other portions Perp. and Tudor. Several
+portions should be carefully noted: (1) very large embattled W. tower,
+built of blocks of Ketton stone with flints laid in squares between each
+block; (2) roof of nave, thought to date from _temp._ Edward IV.; with
+two shields under the ridges, one bearing the arms of Zouch, the church
+having belonged to the Priory of Ashby; (3) solid oak pews, probably
+coeval with nave roof. The S. porch was rebuilt in 1889. The vill of
+Puteham belonged to Leofwin, brother to Harold Godwin; William I. gave
+it to his half-brother, Odo, Bishop of Bayeux.
+
+_Queen Hoo Hall._ (See Bramfield.)
+
+_Rabley Heath_ (1 mile S.W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) adjoins
+Sallow Wood. Knebworth and Codicote churches are about equidistant (11/4
+mile), N.W. and S.W. respectively.
+
+RADLETT, with station on M.R. (main line), is about 5 miles S. from St.
+Albans, on the high-road from the Marble Arch to that city. Seen left
+from the train the neighbourhood is very pretty, the spire of the church
+showing among the trees some distance before the station is reached. The
+cruciform church is modern (1864), E. Dec. in style, with several good
+windows of stained glass. A picturesque ramble may be taken by turning
+into any lane in the vicinity, especially towards the Valley of the
+Colne, W. A potter's kiln of the Roman Age was discovered here.
+
+RADWELL, on the Beds border, is in a charming district, threaded by the
+little river Ivel, 11/2 mile N.N.W. from Baldock. The mill is reached by
+turning left after passing The Compasses, a quaint old inn, where a
+story is told of the "Maid of the Mill," a local beauty, who captured
+many hearts in days long past.[5] Between The Compasses and the mill
+stands the little Perp. church, very ancient, but in part restored on
+several occasions. It has no tower, the two bells hanging in a small
+turret at the W. end of nave. Here, as at Norton, there are several
+memorials to the Pym family; and a few others worth noting: (1) brass,
+with effigies, to John Bell, Gent. (d. 1516), and his two wives; this
+was discovered during restoration, about twenty-five years ago, but the
+inscription was copied by Chauncy, so it must have been hidden by some
+alterations effected after, say, 1690; (2) marble monument to John
+Parker, Kt. (d. 1595), and Mary, his wife (d. 1574); the latter was
+buried at Baldock. There is also a small brass to Elizabeth (Gage or
+Cage), wife of John Parker (d. 1602). The font is fourteenth century.
+Radwell, formerly Reedwell, is said to owe its name to the many reeds
+that grew by the river-side. There are plenty of moor hens, coots and
+dab-chicks on the lake-like expansion of the Ivel near the mill.
+
+[Footnote 5: The story of the "Maid of the Mill" is, I understand, told
+in an early number of _Temple Bar_.]
+
+_Red Heath_ is in the parish of Croxley Green, 2 miles N.N.E. from
+Rickmansworth.
+
+_Red Hill_, 4 miles E. from Baldock, is a small hamlet in a very quiet
+neighbourhood. The nearest church is at Wallington, 3/4 mile N.W.
+_Julians_, a substantial house in the park, 1/2 mile S., was built early
+in the seventeenth century.
+
+REDBOURN (_i.e._, the road by the burn) lies on the old Watling Street,
+4 miles N.W. from St. Albans. The river Ver, here a small stream, skirts
+the E. side of the village. The old manor, like that of Abbots Langley,
+was given to the Abbey of St. Albans by Egelwine the Black and
+Wincelfled, his wife, in the days of Edward the Confessor. St.
+Amphibalus was probably buried here after his martyrdom; his barrow was
+on the Common, and the story of the removal of his bones to St. Albans
+is narrated in Matthew Paris, and is referred to in the Introduction
+(Section IX.). The church of St. Mary, at Church End, 3/4 mile W. from the
+station (M.R.), dates from Norman times; the only existing portions of
+the ancient structure are the three columns of the N. aisle arcade, but
+much thirteenth and fourteenth centuries work still stands. It was
+largely rebuilt by Abbot John Wheathampsted (_temp._ Henry VI.). Note
+(1) almost unique carved oak rood screen, double canopied; (2) pointed
+arches of S. side of nave, replacing those defaced during the
+Commonwealth; (3) Eastern sepulchre and sedilia in chancel; (4) piscinae
+in N. aisle and lady-chapel; (5) brass in chancel, with eight kneeling
+effigies, without date; (6) brass in chancel to Richard Pecock, or Pekok
+(d. 1512). There are silk and corn mills on the Ver, close by.
+
+REED lies on the chalk range, midway between Buntingford and Royston,
+about 31/2 miles S. from Royston Station, G.N.R. The village lies right
+from the Old North Road. One of the best Norman doorways in the county
+is on the N. of the little church, which also contains good Dec.
+portions. The tower alone was untouched during the restoration of sixty
+years ago. Some remains of two moats are a little E. from the village;
+Reed End, Reed Green and Reed Wood, are in the vicinity. The
+neighbourhood is less wooded and picturesque than most of the county.
+
+_Revel End_ (11/2 mile S.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet.
+
+RICKMANSWORTH is in the extreme S.W. of the county; the rivers Colne,
+Chess, and Gade unite here, close to the Grand Junction Canal; and it is
+easy to understand why the place was formerly called "Rykemereswearth,"
+_i.e._, the rich moor-meadow. It is a compact little town with many
+quaint houses and quainter by-paths. The residence now called _Basing
+House_, in the High Street, was for some time the home of William Penn,
+the Quaker; a photograph of it was long since reproduced in the
+_Quiver_. The manor was given by Offa to the Abbots of St. Albans, who
+retained it till the Dissolution, after which Edward VI. granted it to
+Nicholas Ridley, Bishop of London. Henry III. granted a market to be
+held in the town every Wednesday; it was subsequently held on Saturday,
+but has long been discontinued. Paper-making and brewing are now largely
+carried on in the neighbourhood.
+
+The church, at the S. end of Church Street, was rebuilt (except the
+tower) in 1826; and again in 1870, from designs by Sir Arthur Blomfield.
+It is Perp., almost entirely embattled, and is constructed of flints,
+with stone dressings. Note (1) sedilia, piscina and modern oak stalls
+in chancel; (2) restored marble altar tomb carrying shield of arms, and
+inscription to Sir Henry Cary, Baron of Leppington and Earl of Monmouth
+(d. 1661); (3) brass with effigy to Thomas Day (d. 1613), and his wives
+Alice (d. 1585), and Joane (d. 1598); a separate inscription in the
+"Ashbie Chapple" ran--I am not sure if it is still preserved:--
+
+    "Here ly byrid undyr this stone
+    Thomas Davy and his two Wyfs Alice and Joan".
+
+The vicarage is thought to be the oldest in Hertfordshire; it still
+retains portions dating from the middle of the fifteenth century.
+
+One mile S. is _Moor Park_ (Lord Ebury). The house has undergone many
+changes. George Nevil, Archbishop of York, built a house in the park in
+the reign of Edward IV., and sometimes entertained that monarch, and we
+read of a lodge (was it Nevil's house?) being here when Cardinal Wolsey
+owned the manor of "More Park". The estate changed hands several times
+before we find it in the hands of the unfortunate James Fitzroy, Duke of
+Monmouth, who is believed to have built a large mansion on the site of
+the present house. This mansion was almost rebuilt by B. H. Styles, a
+man who made a fortune over South Sea Shares, and is said to have spent
+L130,000 in erecting and adorning his house in this beautiful park, with
+the assistance of the architect Leoni. The house that Styles built still
+largely survives in the present structure, after several alterations
+and much embellishment during eighteenth, nineteenth and twentieth
+centuries. It is a large and stately mansion of Portland stone, with
+fine Corinthian portico, the columns of which are about 50 feet high.
+The vast hall was almost covered with classical and mediaeval designs by
+Sir James Thornhill, who had to sue Styles before he could obtain his
+remuneration; note the huge statues supporting the five marble doorways.
+The house may be seen to advantage some distance from the terrace; but
+it must be remembered that it no longer retains its wings, which were
+removed when Mr. T. B. Rous lived at Moor Park towards the end of the
+eighteenth century.
+
+Permission must be obtained before the park, grounds or house can be
+inspected. The park contains about 500 acres and is famous for its
+splendid timber, some of its oaks being of almost perfect development
+and proportions.
+
+[Illustration: RICKMANSWORTH]
+
+_Rickmansworth Park_, N. from the town, has a modern house well
+situated. The park stretches nearly to Loudwater Mill on the river
+Chess, and is, like Moor Park, beautifully wooded.
+
+RIDGE (21/2 miles S.W. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R.) is on the
+Middlesex border, close to South Mimms. The village doubtless owes its
+name to its situation on the hill. The small church is mainly Perp., but
+the chancel is E. Dec.; it contains several memorials to the Blount
+family, including one to Charles Blount (1654-93). He was an infidel of
+more bitterness than ability, as may be seen from his translation of
+Philostratus's _Apollonius Tyanaeus_; readers may remember that his _Just
+Vindication of Learning_, etc., was stigmatised by Macaulay as "garbled
+extracts" from Milton's _Areopagitica_. On being refused a licence to
+marry his deceased wife's sister, he committed suicide--Pope says he
+"despatch'd himself". The Blount family resided in the neighbourhood for
+many generations; Sir Henry Pope Blount, father of the above-mentioned
+Charles, "built here a fair structure of Brick, made fair Walks and
+Gardens to it, and died seiz'd thereof". He was the author of _A Voyage
+into the Levant_.
+
+_Ringshall_ is a hamlet on the Bucks border, in the parish of Little
+Gaddesden.
+
+_Roe Green_ (4 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) is in a pleasant
+and very quiet neighbourhood. The nearest parish church is Sandon, about
+1 mile N.E. Roe Wood is a little N. from the hamlet.
+
+_Roestock_, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is 1 mile N. from the
+Park. Smallford Station, G.N.R., is 1 mile N.W.
+
+_Round Bush_ consists of a few cottages, 11/2 mile S.W. from Radlett
+Station, M.R.
+
+_Row Green_ (11/4 mile S.W. from Hatfield) lies close to the road from St.
+Albans to Hatfield. Row Hyde is a little farther S.W.
+
+_Rowley Green_, on the road from Barnet Gate to Shenley, is nearly 2
+miles E. from Elstree Station, M.R.
+
+[Illustration: THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON]
+
+ROYSTON, an ancient market town on the Icknield Way at its junction
+with Ermine Street, was until recently partly in Cambs. It is supposed
+to owe its name to a Dame Roesia who placed a cross here on the highway,
+near which spot a monastery of Black Canons was founded by Eustace de
+Mere and others in the reign of Henry II. Early in the reign of Henry
+IV. the town was almost destroyed by fire. Royston enjoyed several
+market privileges in the good old days, and it is recorded that early in
+the fifteenth century wheat was so plentiful that it was sold in Royston
+market for 12d. a quarter.
+
+The church was erected close to the monastery late in the thirteenth
+century, and at the Dissolution was constituted the parish church.
+Thirty years ago it was restored, and more recently enlarged, and is now
+an imposing structure of flint and rubble, E.E. in style. The tower (W.)
+is embattled and carries four pinnacles. The fine lancet windows in the
+chancel were discovered during restoration in 1872, as were also the
+fragments of the old screen, since pieced together to form the present
+pulpit and reading desk. The alabaster effigy in the chancel, of a
+knight in armour, is believed to represent one of the Scales family.
+There are several old brasses: (1) to William Taberam, Rector of
+Therfield (d. 1432), this was large, but only the upper part now
+remains; (2) to a civilian and his wife (_circa_ 1500); (3) to Father
+William Chamber, who founded an annual sermon to be preached in the
+church on Rogation Mondays (d. 1546). There are some good modern windows
+of stained glass.
+
+James I., who had been entertained at Royston by Robert Chester during
+his progress from Scotland to London, built a lodge near Royston Heath,
+to which both he and Charles I. occasionally resorted, the latter being
+brought here as prisoner in 1647. Some cottages still standing on the
+outskirts of the Heath are said to have been used for stables when James
+I. used to hunt in the neighbourhood, and by inquiring for the "Old
+Palace" visitors will be shown what little remains of his Majesty's
+hunting lodge. The Heath is now famous for its fine golf links.
+
+Beneath the old boundary between the two counties, and close to the Post
+Office, is the famous _Royston Cave_, which visitors should not fail to
+see. It was accidentally discovered in 1742 by some men who were digging
+a hole in the market-place, and is now entered by a specially
+constructed passage under the street. It was visited by Louis XVIII.
+Hewn out of the solid chalk, its greatest height is about 25 ft., its
+diameter about 17 ft. It contains curious, and in some cases uncouth
+figures and coloured reliefs of saints, kings, queens, etc., of all
+sizes and ages, and some crucifixes. The late Joseph Beldam, F.S.A., was
+of opinion that the cave dates from pre-Christian times, that it became
+in turn a Roman sepulchre and an oratory, and that it was closed during
+the Reformation.
+
+There are still the traces of several tumuli in the neighbourhood, and
+ancient coins, etc., have been found, but the evidences of any Roman
+occupation are not very convincing.
+
+Royston is a somewhat quaint town, with some narrow byways and
+odd-looking houses, amongst which the Old Plough Inn is not the least
+noticeable.
+
+_Rush Green_ (1 mile S. from Ware) is a small hamlet.
+
+_Rushden_, formerly Risendene and Risden (5 miles S.E. from Baldock),
+has a stuccoed brick church, Dec. and Perp. Chauncy saw in it, "no
+Inscription, Monument, or other Remark," but in 1754 the monument of Sir
+Adolphus Meetkerke, Kt., was brought here from St. Botolph's,
+Aldersgate. Meetkerke was Ambassador from Flanders to the Court of Queen
+Elizabeth, and the author of several volumes. Note the canopy in nave,
+thought to have covered a statue of the Virgin. In the reign of Henry
+II. the patronage of the church was given by William Basset, Sheriff of
+Leicestershire, to the Canons and Church of St. Peter's at Dunstable.
+
+_Rustling Green_ is midway between Knebworth and St. Paul's Walden
+Parks. The district is prettily diversified by small woods. By the
+shortest way through the park Knebworth Station is about 31/2 miles E.
+
+THE RYE HOUSE, on the W. bank of the river Lea, is a famous resort of
+fishermen, excursionists and folk wishing to see the Great Bed of Ware,
+brought here from Ware in 1869. The bed is a huge construction of solid
+oak, quaintly carved, and large enough to hold twelve adults, as is
+proved by a story which can readily be found by the curious, but which
+is unfit for repetition in these pages. It is alluded to by Shakespeare,
+Byron and other writers. The present Rye House is modern, but attached
+to it are some remains of the old House, some account of which must be
+given here.
+
+In his description of the "Mannor of the Rye" Chauncy says, "King Henry
+VI. granted licence to Andrew Ogard and others, that they might impark
+the scite of the Mannor of Rye, otherwise called the Isle of Rye in
+Stansted Abbot, fifty Acres of Land, eleven Acres of Meadow, eight Acres
+of Pasture and Sixteen Acres of Wood, erect a Castle there with Lime and
+Stone, make Battlements and Loopholes &c."[6] The castle built by Ogard
+passed into the hands of the Baesh family; it was doubtless in part
+rebuilt at different times, for what remains of it is of brick. In
+course of time it became the property of Lieut., afterwards Col.,
+Rumbold, known as "Hannibal" among his associates, who had been a
+private in Fairfax's famous regiment of 1648. This man was the
+originator of the _Rye House Plot_.
+
+[Footnote 6: _Hist. Antiq. of Hertfordshire_, etc., vol. i., p. 383, ed.
+1826.]
+
+The story of that plot may be recapitulated in few words. In the spring
+of 1683 Charles II. and James Duke of York were at Newmarket. Rumbold
+and some of his ultra-Republican friends heard that the Royal party
+would return to London by way of Rye House. They met together and
+arranged to secrete some men in the house, to create a disturbance as
+the King passed and to kill him in the confusion which would follow. The
+King escaped--probably, as most writers agree, because he left Newmarket
+earlier than was expected. The plot soon became known, the Rye House was
+searched and many persons were charged with High Treason. Two
+illustrious men became implicated, through the allegations of Howard of
+Escrick and others--Algernon Sidney and Lord Russell. Both were
+certainly innocent, but both were beheaded, and Russell was buried at
+Chenies in Bucks (almost on the Herts border). Rumbold fled to Holland,
+joined the expedition which Argyle headed in Scotland, and was hanged in
+Edinburgh in 1685. Visitors to the neighbourhood of the Rye House will
+perhaps be assured that Rumbold suffered on a tree near by, but such was
+not the case.
+
+SACOMBE (4 miles N.W. from Ware) lies scattered over a considerable
+district. It was long ago called Suevecamp (_i.e._, Suaviscampus)
+because of its pleasant situation. The small Dec. church stands on the
+hill, at the N. end of the Park; it is of ancient foundation, but was
+entirely restored about fifty years ago. There are two sedilia and a
+piscina in the chancel, and two brasses, to John Dodyngton and Eleanor
+his wife (d. 1544 and 1550 respectively). Sacombe Park is beautifully
+timbered; the present house of red brick dates from about 1800.
+
+ST. ALBANS is one of the most ancient and interesting places in England;
+it became a city on the foundation of the Bishopric of St. Albans in
+1877. It may be approached by road from London, (1) by way of Barnet and
+London Colney, the G.N.R. Station (branch from Hatfield) being passed on
+the left nearly a mile from the old clock tower and market-place; (2) by
+way of Edgware, Elstree and Radlett, by which route, after passing St.
+Stephens, the L.&N.W.R. Station (branch from Watford) is on the right
+and the steep Holywell Hill leading to High Street is straight before.
+The river Ver skirts the entire S. limits of the city itself; the field
+that slopes upwards from the silk mill, in a N. direction, is called the
+Abbey Orchard, and on the summit of the slope stands the great Abbey of
+St. Alban.
+
+As the ancient Roman city--the _Verulamium_ of Antoninus--stood some
+distance to the W., a brief account of it will be found under the
+heading Verulam. The history of St. Albans itself commences with the
+death of Alban, the proto-martyr of Britain, who was flogged with rods
+and beheaded by the Romans for having sheltered the priest Amphibalus,
+connived at his escape, and adopted his faith (_circa_ 285-305; the
+date is very uncertain). During the fifth century the Saxons captured
+and destroyed Verulam and built a new town on the hill some distance E.
+This they named _Watlingceaster_ (the town on Watling Street), but when
+(793) Offa built a monastery to the memory of Alban on Holmhurst Hill,
+the traditionary site of the martyrdom, the town itself became known as
+St. Albans. Gildas, Bede and other old authorities agree that an earlier
+church stood on this spot; they state, indeed, that it was built soon
+after the death of St. Alban.
+
+The plan of the city is, like the Abbey, cruciform, four old high-roads
+meeting together near the Clock Tower, N.W. from Dunstable, S.W. from
+Watford, S.E. from London, N.E. from Wheathampstead. The latter unites
+with the road from Harpenden and Luton at The Cricketers, 1/4 mile N.W.
+from St. Peter's Church. The four roads, on entering the city, are
+respectively called Verulam Road, Holywell Hill, London Road and St.
+Peter's Street; one of the oldest thoroughfares, however, is that called
+Fishpool Street, which runs from near the W. end of the Abbey to the
+flour mill on the Ver. Quite recently several of the oldest houses in
+the neighbourhood were in this street; but some have now been pulled
+down.
+
+[Illustration: THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBAN'S
+               _The oldest Inn in England_]
+
+We will enter the city from the direction of St. Stephens. Crossing the
+bridge over the Ver, we turn left by the Duke of Marlborough, pass
+through the gate near the river side and keeping the cress-beds on
+the left reach the silk mill. Turning right we ascend the hill W. of the
+Abbey orchard, obtaining meanwhile a fine view of the stately W. front
+of the Abbey itself, as reconstructed by Lord Grimthorpe. Our way into
+the city lies through the old, partially ivy-clad _Gate House_, a relic
+of the Benedictine Monastery; note the Perp. pointed arch and vaulted
+roof. This was originally the entrance to the Abbey court, the "Magna
+Porta" of the old monastic days. There was a former structure on or near
+the same spot; this was blown down and the present building dates from
+the rule of Thomas de la Mere, thirtieth abbot (1349-96). Used as a jail
+some centuries ago, it has long been known as St. Alban's _Grammar
+School_; the battlemented house S.W. of the archway is the residence of
+the head master. The claims of this school to be _the oldest in England_
+cannot be adequately discussed here. Suffice it to say that documents
+attesting its existence date from Abbot Richard de Albini (1097-1119);
+his successor, Geoffrey de Gorham, came from Normandy to become its
+master. Matthew Paris records that the school was afterwards kept by a
+nephew of Abbot Warine (or Warren) de Cambridge, and had at that time
+more scholars than any school in England. Passing through the arch we
+notice on the left a small, triangular burial ground. The spot is called
+Romeland. Here George Tankerville was burnt by order of Bishop Bonner,
+on 26th August, 1556.
+
+Passing straight forward into Spicer Street the _Congregational
+Chapel_, founded in 1797, is on the right. A little farther on is
+College Street; on the left side stands the house in which Cowper was
+placed under the charge of Dr. Cotton when his insanity was most
+pronounced. To reach the old _Clock Tower_ we turn right into Verulam
+Street and left into High Street. The Tower stands at the S. end of the
+Market Place; note the quaint, narrow thoroughfare at its W. side,
+called French Row. The Tower is Perp., of flint and dressed stone,
+battlemented, and surmounted by a small spire; the basement has long
+been utilised as a saddler's shop. It dates from the fifteenth
+century,[7] but was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1864. In it hangs
+the great bell "Gabriel" cast early in the reign of Edward III.; it is
+now used for striking the hour and formerly tolled the curfew. In the
+foreground, where the drinking fountain now stands, was "Eleanor's
+Cross," erected, like the cross at Waltham (_q.v._), by Edward I. in
+memory of his Queen. It was destroyed about 1700. The old market-place,
+so quaint even fifty years ago, is now largely occupied by modern shops;
+partly by reason of a fire which occurred many years back.
+
+[Footnote 7: Clutterbuck says it was erected between 1402 and 1427.]
+
+Continuing our way up the market-place we pass the _Town Hall_ or _Court
+House_ on the right, an Italian structure dating from 1826, and the
+broad St. Peter's Street opens before us, leading to the old church
+dedicated to that saint. The church is one of three built by Abbot
+Ulsinus in Saxon times; the date of their foundation is very uncertain,
+but we may bear in mind that the first abbot, Willegod, ruled at the
+close of the eighth century, that Ulsinus was the sixth abbot, and that
+six others ruled during Pre-Norman times. St. Peter's Church, largely
+restored by Lord Grimthorpe, is therefore of great antiquity as a
+foundation; the present structure is chiefly late Perp. with a lofty E.
+tower carrying four pinnacles, the latter an addition by the restorer.
+The position of the tower (elsewhere almost invariably W.) is explained
+by the fact that the old church was cruciform, and that when, at the
+beginning of last century, the extreme E. of the chancel and the
+transepts were found much dilapidated they were pulled down, the old
+tower thereby losing its central position. Note the E. Perp. arches
+separating nave and aisles; the pulpit a good example of Belgian
+carving, and the old stained glass in windows of N. aisle; the stained
+glass in other windows is modern. Concerning the brass to Roger
+Pemberton, Sheriff of Herts (d. 13th November, 1627), a story is told.
+If the visitor passes out of the churchyard by the N.W. gate he will be
+_vis-a-vis_ to the almshouses founded in 1627 on the W. side of what was
+then "St. Peter's Street, Bowgate". Pemberton is said to have been
+shooting in the woods, to have shot a widow by accident, and to have
+founded these almshouses for widows, and endowed them with L30 per
+annum for ever as a salve to his conscience. There is an iron arrow over
+the old brick gateway before the houses, which seems to countenance the
+story. There were formerly many other brasses in the church, but the
+inscriptions on some of them must now be sought in the county histories.
+A few, however, remain, _e.g._, one with shield of arms to Mrs.
+Elizabeth Wyndham (d. 1735). In the N. aisle is the tomb of Edward
+Strong (d. 1723), "Master Mason" of St. Paul's Cathedral; in the
+churchyard lies Dr. Nathaniel Cotton, the friend of Cowper (see page
+180) (d. 1788). Among those who fell in the battles of St. Albans (of
+which more will be said presently) and were buried in this church or
+graveyard were (1) Sir Bertin Entwysel, Kt., Baron of Brybeke in
+Normandy; (2) Ralph Babthorpe and Ralph his son, of an old Yorkshire
+family. As a matter of fact a great number of the slain were buried
+here; Chauncy says "this Church and Churchyard was filled with the
+Bodies of those that were slain in the two battles fought in this town".
+
+The two other churches founded by Abbot Ulsinus are those of St. Stephen
+and St. Michael.
+
+_St. Stephen's Church_ stands 3/4 mile S.W. from the Clock Tower, at the
+junction of the roads from Edgware and Watford. It was restored by Sir
+Gilbert Scott in 1861-62; but still retains some ancient features;
+_e.g._, the late Norman arch in N. wall, formerly in part separating
+the nave from the N. aisle (now absent), and two Norman windows, widely
+splayed, in W. wall. Note (1) brass eagle-lectern, believed to have been
+formerly in the Abbey at Holyrood; (2) double piscina in S. aisle; (3)
+fifteenth century font. The oldest brass, much worn, is in the S.
+chapel; it is to the memory of William Robins, Clerk of the Signet to
+Edward IV., (d. 1482) and Katherine his wife.
+
+[Illustration: LORD BACON'S MONUMENT]
+
+_St. Michael's Church_, about 3/4 mile W. from the Clock Tower, stands on
+gently rising ground close to the carriage road to Gorhambury. It is
+believed to occupy, approximately, the centre of what was the ancient
+city of Verulam (_q.v._) and to mark the site of a Roman temple. It has
+been restored, and the tower rebuilt, by Lord Grimthorpe; the work was
+only completed two or three years ago. Flint and tiles taken from the
+surrounding ruins by the builders still exist in the walls; but repeated
+restorations have almost obliterated the evidences of its antiquity.
+There are brasses (1) to Thomas Wolvey, an Esquire to Richard II. (d.
+1430); (2) to "John Pecok et Maud sa femme" (_circa_ 1340-50); but the
+monument of paramount interest is that in the recess N. of the chancel,
+to Francis Bacon, Baron Verulam and Viscount St. Albans (d. 9th April,
+1626). The great philosopher and Lord Chancellor is represented as
+sitting in a tall chair, leaning his head upon his left hand; a Jacobean
+ruff is round his neck and a wide hat upon his head; the sculptor
+(unknown) has succeeded admirably in imparting an air of abstraction to
+the countenance. Of Bacon's house at _Gorhambury_, 11/2 mile farther W.,
+little remains except some fragments of wall and tower, with projecting
+entrance[m] porch. In the yet remaining spandrels of the arches are
+medallions of Roman Emperors; over the porch are the arms of Elizabeth.
+The present mansion, a little E. from the ruins, was commenced in 1778
+by James third Viscount Grimston; it has been considerably altered, but
+retains the grand N. portico; the pediment, supported by ten Corinthian
+columns, reaches to the roof. The hall is very large, and contains
+portraits of Francis Bacon, George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, and
+other worthies. There are numerous pictures in other apartments,
+including portraits of Sir Nicholas Bacon, Thomas Wentworth, Earl of
+Stafford, Queen Elizabeth, Robert Devereux, Catherine of Braganza and
+William Pitt.
+
+[Illustration: RUINS OF LORD BACON'S HOUSE]
+
+There were three monastic institutions on the outskirts of the town:--
+
+(1) The Leper Hospital of _St. Julian_, founded by Geoffrey de Gorham,
+sixteenth Abbot of St. Albans, on a spot close to St. Stephen's Church.
+Of this no vestige remains.
+
+(2) The Hospital of _St. Mary de Pre_, for women-lepers, founded about
+fifty years after the above by Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot, on
+either side of the old Watling Street. Some of the graves in the
+churchyard attached to the hospital were visible so recently as 1827,
+and the cottages known as the "Three Chimnies," originally part of the
+hospital itself, were pulled down in 1849.[8]
+
+[Footnote 8: _Vide_ _Historical Records of St. Albans_, by A. E. Gibbs,
+F.L.S., etc.; a most interesting little volume.]
+
+(3) _Sopwell Nunnery_, founded by Abbot Geoffrey de Gorham about 1140,
+at a spot a little S. from the Old London Road, on the river Ver. The
+masses of ivy-mantled ruins still to be seen, and usually called the
+"ruins of Sopwell Nunnery," are, at least for the most part, the remains
+of the house built by Sir Richard Lee, to whom the manor was granted at
+the Dissolution.
+
+ST. ALBANS ABBEY.--The Abbey has been so repeatedly altered and restored
+that it may be said to illustrate every style of ecclesiastical
+architecture from Norman to the present time. Opinions differ widely as
+to the merits of that scheme of renovation and innovation completed
+under the direction and by the munificence of Lord Grimthorpe, and no
+attempt will be here made to criticise or extol the work of so great an
+expert. Such a description of the venerable Abbey as an architect might
+love to write would fill a volume in this series. After careful
+consideration I have decided to sketch its history in such a way as to
+show, however imperfectly, how it came to be what it is. I have been
+careful to compare many authorities and to follow the consensus of
+testimony wherever I have found discrepancy or contradiction.
+
+It has already been stated that, according to Gildas, Bede and other
+authorities, a church was erected on Holmhurst Hill after the martyrdom
+of St. Alban. Concerning that church we know little more than that it
+was almost destroyed by the Saxons. In 793, or very near that date, Offa
+II., who had murdered the East Anglian King, Ethelbert, resolved to
+found a monastery, encouraged, as we learn from William of Malmesbury,
+by Charlemagne. The monastery was duly founded, for an abbot and 100
+Benedictine monks, and the little church, renovated, became the original
+abbey of the foundation. Having discovered the bones of St. Alban and
+placed them in a costly reliquary, Offa conveyed them to this church,
+intending to erect a nobler edifice for their reception; but it is
+doubtful whether the design was carried out during his lifetime. Indeed,
+we know little as to that enlarging and adornment of the church which
+must surely have been effected in the days of the early abbots, and the
+first hints of the erection of the great abbey occur in the lives of
+Ealdred and Eadmer, eighth and ninth abbots, who collected immense
+quantities of red, tile-like Roman bricks from the ruins of Verulam;
+Matthew Paris tells us that Eadmer made some progress in the actual
+rebuilding of the church. The twelfth abbot, Leofstan (d. 1066),
+enriched the building with "certain ornaments"; but it was the
+fourteenth abbot, Paul de Caen (1077-97), who, using the vast stores of
+material collected by his predecessors, entirely rebuilt the church on a
+scale almost commensurate with its present size.
+
+The rebuilding of the Abbey Church by Abbot Paul de Caen occupied eleven
+years. When completed, it was certainly one of the noblest and largest
+structures in the kingdom. The length of this cruciform Norman church
+was 426 feet. (The extreme length is now 550, due to additions presently
+mentioned.) On the E. side of either transept were two apsidal chapels,
+the one adjoining the presbytery aisle being in each case the larger of
+the two; there was also an apse at the E. end of the presbytery. A
+square, battlemented tower flanked the W. front on either side; but the
+chief glory of Abbot Paul's church was undoubtedly the enormous Norman
+tower of four stages, triforium, clerestory, ringing-floor and belfry,
+surmounted by parapets and flanked by angle turrets, of which such
+considerable portions yet remain. Visitors who saw the Abbey thirty
+years ago saw the E. portion of the nave, the transepts and the tower
+substantially as built by Abbot Paul de Caen. The new Abbey was
+dedicated 1115.
+
+Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth abbot (1119-46), placed the relics of St.
+Alban in a new shrine.
+
+Robert de Gorham, eighteenth abbot (1161-67), erected the _Chapter
+House_ and _Locutory_ (Abbot's Cloister); his successor, Symeon
+(1167-83), completed the erection and embellishment of the _Shrine of
+St. Alban_, raising its height so that it could be seen from the _High
+Altar_. During his abbacy the relics of St. Amphibalus were brought to
+St. Albans, and the shrine of that saint was eventually erected in the
+E. aisle. The _Chapel of St. Cuthbert_ in the _Baptistery_, built by
+Abbot Richard de Albini (1097-1119), was also dedicated about this time.
+
+Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot (1183-95), placed the relics of St.
+Amphibalus in a feretry, enriching it with gold and silver
+ornamentation. He placed it behind the High Altar, near the feretry of
+St. Alban.
+
+John de Cella, twenty-first abbot (1195-1214), commenced to rebuild the
+W. front, notably the three fine E.E. porches now replaced by those of
+Lord Grimthorpe, but the work was completed by his successor William de
+Trumpyntone (1214-35), who added the two flanking towers. This abbot
+erected the rood screen between the nave and choir, added the octagon
+above the tower after removing the Norman turrets and parapets, and
+probably built those E.E. bays on each side of the nave which are
+nearest to the W. front. He also restored portions of the S. transept
+and S. aisle, and rebuilt _St. Cuthbert's Chapel_ on the spot now partly
+occupied by the _Rood Screen_.
+
+The E. end of the Abbey next received the attention of these
+architect-abbots. Commencing at the second bay E. from the tower, John
+de Hertford (1235-60) almost entirely replaced the Norman and E.E. work
+of his predecessors by work which merged into a graceful E. Dec. The
+work was carried on by his immediate successors, doubtless sadly
+hindered by the turbulent state of the times. John de Norton (1260-90)
+built the S. aisle of the _Retro-choir_, and part of the _Lady-chapel_,
+but his work was supplemented by that of John de Berkhampstead
+(1291-1302). John de Marinis (1302-8) removed the feretry and tomb of
+St. Alban to the position which it occupied until about the time of the
+Dissolution and spent 820 marks in the erection of a tomb of Purbeck
+marble. Hugh de Eversden (1308-26) built the five moulded Dec. bays of
+the S. aisle, replacing the Norman work, which had given way, and
+completed the _Lady-chapel_ at the extreme E., thereby greatly
+increasing the length of the entire building. There was subsequently,
+however, for a long period, a passage between the _Retro-choir_ and the
+_Lady-chapel_.
+
+Abbot Michael de Mentmore (1335-49) completed the restoration of the S.
+aisle and repaired the _Cloister_. His successor, Thomas de la Mere,
+paved the W. floor, and no doubt minor restorations were almost
+continually in progress during the latter half of the fourteenth
+century; but a new chapter in the story of the Abbey commenced when John
+de Wheathampsted became abbot (1420-40 and 1451-64). This celebrated
+man, during the two periods of his abbacy, hardly rested in his efforts
+to beautify the Abbey. It is stated in a Cottonian MS. that this abbot
+constructed a little chapel near the shrine of St. Alban; this was
+perhaps the _Watching Loft_ (N. of _Saint's Chapel_) in which the keeper
+of the holy shrine and relics (Custos Feretri) spent much of his time.
+John de Wheathampsted also built the tomb of Humphrey, Duke of
+Gloucester (d. 1447), on the side of the chapel opposite the _Watching
+Loft_ (a few steps lead down to the coffin); prepared his own tomb W.
+from that of the duke; built the great Perp. window over the W. porches,
+now replaced by one Dec. in design, and the nine N. windows of _Nave_
+and _Ante-Choir_; and was probably responsible for the paintings
+discovered on the choir ceiling, and for many of the embellishments of
+the _Lady-chapel_. Perhaps, however, his fame chiefly rests on the _High
+Altar Screen_, which he designed, but which was erected by the
+thirty-sixth abbot, William Wallingford (1476-84).
+
+There were apparently few important features added to the Abbey, and but
+little restoration effected during the rule of the last four abbots
+(1492-1539). A few brief paragraphs concerning its modern restorations
+and present appearance must now be added.
+
+Those modern restorations date largely from the middle of last century.
+Its condition, internally and externally, was at that time certainly
+discreditable to everybody concerned in its welfare. In 1856 a National
+Committee placed the matter in the hands of Sir Gilbert Scott, under
+whose direction the building was in part restored; but public funds
+presently failed and in 1879 the direction of the workers was undertaken
+by one who had at once the inclination and the funds necessary to its
+completion--Lord Grimthorpe.
+
+The _Abbey_, from the W. porches to the E. end of the _Lady-chapel_ and
+the _Chapel of Transfiguration_, measures inside 520 feet, outside 550
+feet; the entire _transept_ length from N. to S., on the floor, 177
+feet; the _nave_, the longest Gothic one in the world, 292 feet x 75
+feet 4 inches; the _Lady-chapel_, 57 feet x 24 feet; the great _Screens_
+are rather less than 170 feet apart; the height of the _tower_ is 144
+feet. Visitors will find some slight discrepancies as to measurements in
+the several guides which have been compiled; but the foregoing figures
+will assist them to realise the vast dimensions of the building. Its
+area is approximately 40,000 square feet. Of special interest are:--
+
+(1) _The Tower_, which is seen to greater advantage since Sir Gilbert
+Scott removed the exterior plaster, thus exposing the wonderfully
+preserved Roman tiles with which it was faced by Abbot Paul de Caen. The
+four enormous piers upon which it rests were weakened by the ignorance
+of early restorers, who cut into them freely, and dug graves in such
+manner as to imperil their foundations. The most arduous work of Sir
+Gilbert Scott was the strengthening of these piers, effected piecemeal
+by partial reconstruction of the piers themselves and by laying a
+durable substratum of cement right down to the chalk. The fine ring of
+eight bells was rehung. Visitors will find the ascent of the spiral
+staircase long and arduous, but will be rewarded by the almost
+unrivalled view from between the merlons on its summit.
+
+[Illustration: The Shrine of St Alban]
+
+(2) _St. Alban's Shrine_ (in the Saint's Chapel between the Altar Screen
+and the Lady-chapel), already referred to (p. 188), disappeared about
+the time of the suppression of the monastery (1539), and all traces of
+it were lost except the fragment of Purbeck marble marking its former
+site on the chapel floor. Yet that shrine, its genuineness unquestioned,
+stands to-day on the site which it occupied centuries ago! Hundreds of
+fragments of Purbeck marble were discovered when the central arches of
+the Lady-chapel were opened by Dr. Nicholson previous to the
+restorations of Sir Gilbert Scott. Subsequently, other fragments were
+discovered and the whole collection, the importance of which was
+suspected, was pieced together with indefatigable ingenuity by the late
+John Chapple. The _feretry_ itself, mentioned by Matthew Paris, which
+was supposed to contain the relic of the martyr, has not, and probably
+never will be, discovered. The vaulted niches are of clunch, but the
+rest of the shrine is of Purbeck marble. Note the beautiful tracery of
+these groined niches, the cusps of the arches and crocketted
+pediments, and the carvings in the tympana, representing scenes from
+the martyrdom of SS. Alban and Amphibalus.
+
+(3) _Shrine of St. Amphibalus_ (in N. aisle of presbytery). This was
+discovered in fragments and pieced together in the same manner as that
+of St. Alban. The whole, however, is of clunch, and, unfortunately,
+incomplete. Note the fret-like sculpture round the basement, and the
+name of the saint (imperfect) in carved capitals.
+
+(4) _High Altar Screen_, or screen of Abbot Wallingford (restored at the
+expense of Lord Aldenham); is in point of size, as in beauty, perhaps
+unique in England. Note its resemblance to that at Winchester. It was
+much dilapidated, its many statues having been entirely destroyed at the
+time of the Reformation; but its restoration has been admirably
+executed, the figures of SS. Alban and Amphibalus being especially
+noticeable: the latter wears a _Celtic_, not a Roman tonsure. Note also
+the figures of our Lord and His apostles in alabaster, and those of
+Adrian IV., Bede, Hugh of Lincoln, St. Edmund and many others.
+
+(5) Chantry Tombs of _Abbot Ramryge_ and _Abbot John Wheathampsted_,
+occupying respectively the last arches of N. and S. side of the
+Sanctuary. Note the fine late Perp. work of the former, and the
+Wheathampsted arms, three wheat-ears, on the latter.
+
+(6) _The Lady-chapel_ (enter through Retro-choir). This formerly
+contained much of the finest work in the Abbey and traces of it are
+still retained, despite its repeated and entire restoration. The present
+vaulted roof of real stone replaces that of imitation stone built by
+Abbot Hugh de Eversden. In post-Reformation days it was long used as the
+Grammar School; but since the removal of the school to the Old Gate
+House (1869) the chapel has gradually been brought into its present
+state. Many of its most beautiful features--tracery, mouldings,
+statuettes, carvings, etc.--had, however, been completely destroyed by
+the boys. The marble pavement is new; the stained glass in the E. window
+was presented by the Corporation of London. Note the wonderful variety
+of carved flowers and fruits with which this chapel is embellished.
+
+From Grose's _Antiquities_ (vol. viii.) I quote the following:--
+
+"Mr. Robert Shrimpton, grandfather, by the mother's side, to Mrs.
+Shrimpton of St. Albans, was four times mayor of that town; he died
+about sixty years since, being then about 103 years of age. He lived
+when the Abbey of St. Alban flourished before the Dissolution and
+remembered most things relating to the buildings of the Abbey, the
+regimen of the house, the ceremonies of the church ... all of which he
+would often discourse in his life-time. Among other things, that in the
+Great Hall there was an ascent of fifteen steps to the abbot's table, to
+which the monks brought up the service in plate, and staying at every
+fifth step, which was a resting-place, at every of which they sung a
+short hymn. The abbot usually sat alone in the middle of the table; and
+when any nobleman or ambassador or stranger of eminent quality came
+thither they sat at his table towards the end thereof. When the monks
+had waited a while on the abbot, they sat down at two other tables,
+placed on the sides of the hall and had their service brought in by
+novices, who, when the monks had dined, sat down to their own dinner."
+
+_First Battle of St. Albans._--On _May 23rd_, 1455, the forces of King
+Henry VI. assembled in the neighbourhood of St. Peter's Street, and were
+attacked by those of the Duke of York and Warwick the Kingmaker.
+Advancing from the fields E. of the town, Warwick's men appear to have
+approached from Key Fields and Sopwell Lane, and, finally, having fought
+their way into Holywell Hill, to have united with those of the Duke of
+York, who had forced the town barriers farther N. The battle was
+desperately contested; the bowmen, as usual in those times, playing a
+conspicuous part; Henry VI. was wounded in the neck, Humphrey Earl of
+Stafford in the right hand, Lord Sudley and the Duke of Buckingham in
+the face--all with arrows. The wounded king took refuge in the cottage
+of a tanner; here he was made prisoner and conducted by the Duke of York
+to the Abbey. The town was at the mercy of the Yorkist soldiers during
+the latter part of the day; many houses were looted and the Abbey was
+probably spared only because the royal prisoner had been conducted
+thither. Several illustrious persons slain in this battle were buried in
+the Lady-chapel: (1) Henry Percy, second Earl of Northumberland; (2)
+Edmund Beaufort, first Duke of Somerset; (3) John, Lord Clifford. Sir
+Robert Vere, Sir William Chamberlain, Sir Richard Fortescue, Kts., and
+many squires and other gentlemen also perished.
+
+_Second Battle of St. Albans._--On Shrove Tuesday, 17th February, 1461,
+Queen Margaret defeated the Earl of Warwick, who retreated with
+considerable loss, the battle being mostly fought out on Bernard's
+Heath, N. from St. Peter's Church. This engagement also was stubbornly
+fought out. According to Stow and Hollinshead, the Lancastrians were
+thwarted in their efforts to pass through the town from S. to N., being
+repulsed by arrows in the Market Place, and eventually reached Bernard's
+Heath by a circuitous route from the W. If this is so, visitors who
+ramble down the High Street, turn right into Katherine Lane, coming out
+of Wellclose Street near St. Peter's Church, will probably tread in the
+footsteps of the troops of Margaret. After the fight had been decided
+the victorious Lancastrians poured back into the town, which was again
+plundered, and the Abbey also partially stripped. This was during the
+second abbacy of John Wheathampsted, and Stow records that the day after
+the battle Queen Margaret, and the King (Henry VI.) were led by the
+abbot and monks to the High Altar of the Abbey, where they returned
+thanks for the victory.
+
+ST. MARGARET'S, on the river Lea, has a small church with several
+unimportant memorials. It was probably formed from one aisle of an older
+edifice.
+
+_St. Margaret's_ is also the name of a few cottages a little N.W. from
+Great Gaddesden, near the site of the Benedictine convent of _Muresley_,
+the refectory of which was almost intact early last century.
+
+ST. PAUL'S WALDEN (4 miles S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a
+large and scattered parish; much of it is very picturesque. The church,
+which was restored twenty years ago, is of several styles, but contains
+little worthy of comment. Note the tablet on the W. wall of the chapel
+to Henry Stapleford and Dorothy his wife. "The said Henry was servant to
+Queen Elizabeth, King James and King Charles" (d. 1631). The manor was
+formerly called first _Waldene_, then Abbot's Walden, being the property
+of the abbots of St. Albans. _St. Paul's Walden Bury_, 1/2 mile S.W. from
+the church, is the seat of Lord Strathmore. Note the fine avenues in the
+park, commanding good views of the house. The walk S. to Whitwell,
+through the steep and twisted lane and across the bridge over the Maran,
+keeping the "bog" and cress beds on the right, is very pretty.
+
+SANDON (31/2 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R) has a flint church,
+probably late fourteenth century. Several features should be noted: (1)
+Perp. screen (oak) between nave and chancel; (2) old stained glass in
+windows of both aisles; (3) fine Jacobean oak pulpit; (4) old brass,
+with inscription which was imperfect 200 years back, to "Johannes Fitz
+Geoffery, Armiger" (d. 1480); (5) piscina in each aisle; (6) pinnacled
+and crocketted arches in chancel, over triple sedilia. The church was
+partially restored in 1875. The manor of _Sandone_ was owned by Saxon
+kings; Athelstan gave ten houses in the _vill_ to St. Paul's, London.
+The Old North Road to Royston is 2 miles E.
+
+SANDRIDGE (21/2 miles N.E. from St. Albans) is on the road to
+Wheathampstead, and is a thoroughly typical English village consisting,
+for the most part, of one street, with the parish church near its N.E.
+end. The parish stretches northwards to the Lea, and is very ancient;
+the _vill_ was given by Egfrith, a son of Offa, to St. Alban's Abbey. It
+owes its name to the nature of its soil. The church, one of the most
+ancient in the county, has known much restoration, but still retains
+Norman work. It was consecrated as a chapel a few years after the
+consecration of St. Alban's Abbey (1115); the chancel was rebuilt by
+Abbot John Moote (_circa_ 1400). The tower fell towards the end of the
+seventeenth century and the structure which took its place was pulled
+down and reconstructed in 1887. Note the old material in the apex, the
+Perp. windows in the aisles, the clerestoried Norman nave and the Norman
+font. There are N. and S. porches.
+
+Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, derived his first title, Baron
+Sandridge, from this parish; the Jennings family, from which his wife
+Sarah was descended, possessed the manor for several generations.
+_Sandridge Bury_, N.W. from the village, is beautifully situated.
+
+SARRATT (11/2 mile N. from Chorley Wood Station, Met. Extension) is near
+the river Chess, on the Bucks border. The church is late Norman and is
+remarkable for the saddle-back roof of its tower, running N. and S., the
+only tower roof of its kind in Herts. The building is cruciform, of
+flint, dressed with Totternhoe and Caen stone, and has a square ambry, a
+very old piscina, and a double sedilia; the latter is E.E. Richard
+Baxter is said to have preached from the Jacobean pulpit. There are a
+few old memorials. The church is prettily situated, and a picturesque
+walk may be taken N.W. to Sarratt Bottom, thence N.E. to
+
+SARRATT GREEN, which during the last two or three centuries has
+gradually outgrown Sarratt. Note the many fine old cottages on either
+side of the village green. Sarratt owes its name to Syret, a Saxon.
+
+SAWBRIDGEWORTH (formerly Sabysford, Sabridgeworth, Saybrichesworth and
+now often called Sapsworth) lies at the S.E. extremity of the county, 4
+miles S. from Bishop's Stortford. The district is not very diversified,
+but is open and pleasant. The history of the several old manor houses
+in the neighbourhood would fill a large volume; those of _Hyde Hall_
+(E.) and _Pishiobury_ (S.) are engraved in Chauncy; the present mansion
+in Pishiobury[n] Park was built by Wyatt, and has a fine adjoining
+rosery. The church stands between the town and the station (G.E.R.); it
+has a good Perp. screen between the clerestoried Dec. nave and the
+chancel, and a large canopied piscina in the N. aisle. The brasses are
+numerous: note (1) to Sir John Leventhorpe (d. 1433) and Katherine his
+wife (d. 1431); the former was an executor to King Henry V.; (2) to
+several other members of the Leventhorpe family, too numerous to
+mention; (3) to Calpredus Jocelin (d. 147-), and his wives Katherine and
+Joan; (4) inscription on brass, which was long ago transcribed as
+follows:--
+
+    "Of your Charite
+    Sey a Pater Nostre and an Ave
+    For the Sowl of William Chaunce
+    On whose Sowl Jesu have Mercy".
+
+Several monuments and brasses are to the memory of persons buried
+elsewhere. Note the marble altar-tomb in chancel to John Jocelin or
+Jocelyn (d. 1525) and Philippa his wife.
+
+_Shafton End_ and _Shafton-Hoe_ lie a little E. from the Cambridge Road,
+on the Essex border, about 4 miles S.E. from Royston.
+
+_Shaw Green_ is 4 miles S.E. from Baldock, near _Julians Park_.
+
+SHEEPHALL (2 miles N.N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a little
+E. from the Great North Road. It is a small village. The church, E.E.,
+is approached through a good lich-gate, and contains many memorials,
+including two sixteenth-century brasses to members of the Nodes family,
+one of which was Sergeant of the Buckhounds to Henry VIII., Edward VI.,
+Mary and Elizabeth (d. 1564).
+
+SHENLEY (2 miles E. from Radlett Station, M.R.) is of interest to many
+for its fine old "lock-up," or cage, in the centre of the village. We
+are on high ground here, and the tower of St. Alban's Abbey is well seen
+above the trees to the N.W. The village is scattered along several
+converging roads, and the surrounding country is undulating and
+beautifully wooded. Turn down the lane opposite the Black Lion to reach
+the old church of St. Botolph, 1 mile N.N.W. from the cage. Note the
+venerable yews, and the quaint old grave-boards in the graveyard; also
+the altar-tomb to Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of Wren, and the architect
+of St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard Street (d. at Shenley, 1736). The church
+was partly rebuilt in the middle of the eighteenth century, when the
+tower was demolished and a structure of timber, with quadrangular tiled
+roof, eventually erected in its stead. This has disappeared, and the
+"old parish church" is now an oblong building of flints, chalk-faced,
+with tiled roof. _Porters_, in the park, a little W., was the residence
+of Admiral Lord Howe. _Salisbury Hall_, a gabled manor house with
+massive chimneys, surrounded by a moat, is Jacobean, and stands on the
+spot occupied successively by the older houses of the Montacutes, and of
+Sir John Cutts, Treasurer and Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. Eugene
+Aram visited the neighbourhood.
+
+_Sleap's Hyde_ (1/2 mile S.E. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+in the parish of Colney Heath.
+
+_Smug Oak_, a few cottages, lies on the E. confines of Bricket Wood, 1/2
+mile N.E. from that station, L.&N.W.R.
+
+_Smyth's End_ adjoins Barley on the S. (_q.v._).
+
+_Solesbridge Lane_, on the river Chess, is close to Chorley Wood.
+
+_Southend_ and _Southend Green_ are hamlets, (1) adjoining Stevenage on
+the S., (2) 1/2 mile E. from Rushden.
+
+_Spellbrook_ is a hamlet nearly midway between Sawbridgeworth and
+Bishop's Stortford.
+
+_Stanborough_, on the Hatfield-Welwyn road, is midway between Hatfield
+and Brocket Hall Parks. The road which branches N.W. from the hamlet
+leads to the modern church at Lemsford (_q.v._).
+
+STANDON has several claims to notice. It is a large village, 1 mile E.
+from the Old North Road. A little W., and on the other side of the
+railway, is the mansion which occupies the site of _Standon Lordship_, a
+fine old manor house, of which hardly a vestige remains. It was long
+owned by the Sadleir family, most illustrious of whom was Sir Ralph
+Sadleir (d. 1587), who fought at Pinkie. (See below.)
+
+The church, largely Dec., still retains some Saxon foundations, and has
+singular features worthy of comment. The embattled tower is separate
+from the main structure, standing on the _S. side of the chancel_; the
+chancel is raised much higher than the nave, from which it is approached
+by a flight of steps; note the hagioscope on either side of the chancel
+arch. Within the chancel, on the S. side, stands the fine monument to
+Sir Ralph Sadleir, consisting of altar-tomb and marble effigy in armour,
+recumbent beneath a canopy supported by Corinthian pillars; note the
+relieved figures of his sons and daughters on the lower part of the
+tomb, also, suspended above, two helmets and other relics. The standard
+pole captured at Pinkie rests beside the effigy. There are also several
+old brasses. Close to the village, at Old Hall Green, are the Roman
+Catholic College, Chapel and Cemetery; the college was founded at
+Twyford, Hants, late in the seventeenth century, from whence it was
+removed, first to Standon Lordship, and then (1769) to Old Hall. The
+library is large and valuable.
+
+STANSTEAD ABBOTS may be easily reached from St. Margaret's Station,
+G.E.R., 1/2 mile W. It was a place of considerable trade at the time of
+the Conquest. The old flint church is E.E., with a chapel on the N.
+side, built by Edward Baesh--whose monument it contains--in 1577. He
+was lord of the manor of Stanstead Abbots and "General Surveyor of the
+Victuals for the Navy Royal and Marine affairs within the Realms of
+England and Ireland" (d. 1587). He married Jane, a daughter of Sir Ralph
+Sadleir. (See Standon.) The six Baesh Almshouses were built and endowed
+by his son, Sir Edward Baesh. Several brasses, some mutilated, are in
+the church, notably one near the altar-rails to William Saraye or
+Saxaye, late of "Grais In" (d. 1581). _Stansteadbury_, a huge gabled
+mansion, largely rebuilt, stands in extensive grounds, and was the home
+of the Baeshs and of their successors, the Feildes.
+
+_Stapleford_, a village on the river Beane, is 3 miles N.N.W. from
+Hertford. The church is Perp. with N. porch; it was enlarged nearly
+fifty years ago, when the present tower was added.
+
+STEVENAGE, a town on the Great North Road, has shifted from its original
+position. It once stood farther N.E. and close to the church; but after
+a terrible fire which destroyed a large proportion of its houses the
+village was gradually rebuilt more directly on the famous old coaching
+road. The first paper mill in England is said to have been built in this
+parish. Several of its inns were standing when the regular coaches were
+on the road.
+
+[Illustration: STEVENAGE CHURCH]
+
+The old Church of St. Nicholas, 3/4 mile N.E., is reached through an
+avenue of limes and chestnuts, headed by a new lich-gate. It is largely
+E.E. Note the octagonal pillars and pointed arches of the nave and the
+two small chapels attached to the chancel. The font at the W. end is
+under an Early Norman arch. There are several modern windows of stained
+glass, and a good brass, early sixteenth century, in the chancel. The
+church at the S. end of the town was designed by Sir A. W. Blomfield
+about sixty years back, but has since been much enlarged. Half a mile
+farther S. on the main road are six almost equidistant mounds, thought
+to be of Danish origin.
+
+At the old Castle Inn, E. side of High Street, great numbers of persons
+have been shown on the rafters in a barn the coffin of Henry Trigg,
+whose will was proved in 1724; one of its provisions was that his body
+should not be buried, but disposed of in that way. Little more than a
+mile N.W. from the station, at Redcoats Green, stood, until 1893,
+"Elmwood House," the home of the Hermit of Hertfordshire. This man,
+James Lucas, was descended from a good family, but for reasons never
+satisfactorily explained he lived alone, and in a most filthy condition,
+from October, 1849, to April, 1874. A concise and reliable account of
+this peculiar man is issued by Messrs. Paternoster and Hales of Hitchin.
+
+STOCKING PELHAM, on the Essex border (51/2 miles N.E. from Braughing
+Station, G.E.R.), has an E.E. church dating from early fourteenth
+century; it has no tower. The chancel was restored in 1864. The manor is
+very ancient, and was held by Simon de Furneaux in the reign of Edward
+I., but the village now shows little of interest.
+
+_Swangles_ (21/4 miles N.E. from Ware) is a small hamlet a little S. from
+the river Rib.
+
+_Symonds Green_ (3/4 mile S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet
+between the Great North Road and the ruins of Minsden Chapel.
+
+_Symonds Hyde_ Farm and Wood are in a pleasant district, very
+diversified, a little S.W. from Brocket Hall Park. Smallford and
+Hatfield Station (G.N.R.) are from 2 to 3 miles S. and S.W.
+respectively.
+
+_Tea Green_, a hamlet near the Beds border, lies between Breachwood
+Green and Putteridge Bury.
+
+_Tednambury_ and _Tednam Mill_ are on the river Stort and right on the
+Essex border. Sawbridgeworth Station (G.E.R.) is 1 mile S.
+
+TEWIN (about 2 miles S.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) is most
+charmingly situated on high ground above the river Maran. The village is
+divided into the Upper and Lower Green; the church, 1/4 mile from the
+latter, stands on a hill that slopes steeply to the river. Note the
+altar-tomb in churchyard to Lady Anne Grimston (d. 1710). The tomb is
+forced asunder by ash and sycamore trees growing together, a
+circumstance popularly attributed to the sceptical opinions of Lady
+Anne, who is said to have denied the doctrine of immortality, and to
+have expressed the wish that such a phenomenon should happen if the
+doctrine were indeed true. The church, which looks very old, is of
+flint, brick and rubble, with a large diamond-faced clock on one side of
+the tower. In the S. porch (entrance blocked up) is the marble monument
+to Sir Joseph Sabine (d. 1739); who fought under Marlborough. Note the
+pyramid, 15 feet high, and the recumbent effigy, dressed as a Roman
+soldier. There is also in the S. aisle a good brass to one Thomas Pygott
+(d. 1610), and a slab with an imperfect Lombardic inscription to Walter
+de Louthe. _Tewin Water_, in the park, N.W., is prettily surrounded by
+trees. Beautiful walks may be taken in almost any direction, especially
+in the trend of the river Maran towards Digswell and Welwyn.
+
+_Tharbes End_ is 11/2 mile N.W. from Sawbridgeworth.
+
+THEOBALD'S PARK. (See Waltham Cross.)
+
+THERFIELD (3 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) was, according to
+Dugdale's _Monasticon Anglicanum_, given to the church of Ramsey by
+Etheric, Bishop of Sherbourne, about 980, and Chauncy "guesses" that an
+abbot of Ramsey built Therfield church. The present church is a modern
+Dec. structure, a little W. from the centre of the scattered village.
+The _Icknield Way_ skirts the parish on the N. and many Roman relics
+have been discovered in the neighbourhood. There are also several tumuli
+in the parish, which lies on high, chalky soil.
+
+THORLEY (2 miles S.W. from Bishop's Stortford) can show a good Norman
+doorway on the S. side of the little church; note the dog-tooth moulding
+and twisted nook-shafts. The remainder of the building is largely E.E.;
+there is a piscina in the chancel and--at the W. entrance--a niche for a
+holy water basin. The font, as at Bishop's Stortford, was a modern
+discovery. Thorley Wash and Thorley Street are between the church and
+the G.E.R.
+
+THROCKING (2 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) stands on a
+hill. The church is E.E. and Dec., except the upper part of the tower,
+of brick, added in 1660. The monuments include one by Nollekens and one
+by Rysbrack, to members of the Elwes family, of whose manor house there
+are still some traces adjacent to the _Hall Farm_. The walk N.W. to
+Baldock, by way of Julians Park (7 to 8 miles), leads across open,
+breezy country.
+
+THUNDRIDGE and WADE'S MILL are on the Old North Road, about 2 miles N.
+from Ware. The river Rib crosses the road at Wade's Mill. The present
+parish church, E.E. in style, was built about seventy years ago, close
+to the bridge over the Rib; the tower of the old church; "Little St.
+Mary's," with a Norman arch stands in the lower meadows 1/2 mile E. On the
+W. side of the Old North Road, close to Wade's Mill, a low obelisk marks
+the spot where Thomas Clarkson resolved to give his life to the cause of
+the abolition of slavery.
+
+_Titmore Green_ is 11/2 mile N.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.
+
+_Tittenhanger._ (See London Colney.)
+
+_Todd's Green_ adjoins Titmore Green.
+
+_Tonwell_, on the main road from Ware or Stevenage, is a hamlet near
+the river Rib. It has a modern chapel-of-ease. Ware is 21/2 miles S.E.
+
+TOTTERIDGE, on the Middlesex border, is 1 mile W. from the Station
+(G.N.R.). Richard Baxter lived here for a short time. The neighbourhood
+is well wooded and very pleasing to the eye. The church, on the
+hill-top, dates only from 1790; but the site was occupied by an earlier
+structure. The memorials are of no historic interest; but near the
+enormous yew tree in the churchyard stands the tomb of the first Lord
+Cottenham (d. 1851). Near by, too, lies Sir Lucas Pepys, physician to
+George III. (d. 1830). _Totteridge Park_, W. from the village, was the
+residence of Baron Bunsen, and of the above-mentioned Lord Cottenham;
+the large, plain structure in which they lived, recently in part
+rebuilt, was erected about a century ago, taking the place of the fine
+old manor house, for some generations the home of the Lee family. At
+_Copped Hall_, near the church, the late Cardinal Manning was born in
+1808.
+
+TRING is the most westerly place of any importance in Herts. The station
+(L.&N.W.R.) is nearly 2 miles E. from the town, which is sheltered on
+the N.W. by the chalk hills, a fresh spur of which crops out 3 mile N.E.
+at Aldbury (_q.v._). The church (Perp.) stands near the centre of the
+town and is fortunate in having been restored under the direction of Mr.
+Bodley in 1882. It is an embattled, flint structure; the tower has a
+corner turret and is, like that at Hitchin, unusually massive. Note (1)
+the clustered columns of the nave, (2) the quaint corbels, (3) the
+large, imposing monument to Sir William Gore and his wife (d. 1707 and
+1705 respectively); Sir William was Lord Mayor of London; (4) good Perp.
+windows in each aisle.
+
+Tring was formerly a considerable centre of the straw-plait industry,
+which is still pursued to a less extent. The place is of great
+antiquity, _Treung_ hundred dating from the days of Alfred the Great.
+William I. gave it to Robert Earl of Ewe, and Stephen kindly bestowed it
+upon the monks of Faversham, "in perpetual Alms for the Health of the
+Souls of Maud his Queen and all faithful People". Edward II. granted to
+Tring market rights.
+
+_Tring Park_ (property of Hon. N. C. Rothschild) is surrounded by
+perhaps the most exquisite woods--largely of beech--in the whole county.
+Much altered in modern times, it is said to have been designed by Wren,
+and to have been visited by Charles II. The park is well kept, and
+contains many living curiosities placed here by Lord Rothschild, a lover
+of natural history. The _Museum_, at the top of Akeman Street,
+containing a fine zoological collection, is the outcome of his
+lordship's energy and benevolence. The _Museum House_, to which it is
+attached, is a prettily designed structure of red brick, with gables.
+
+_Tring, Little_, is a hamlet 11/4 mile N.W. from the town, and Tring
+Grove, a hamlet 11/4 mile N.E. The former is near the large reservoirs,
+upon which several of the rare birds mentioned in the Introduction
+(Section IV.) were observed.
+
+_Trowley Bottom_ (3 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet
+a little S. from Flamstead, in one of the most thoroughly rural
+districts in the county. The Roman _Watling Street_ (St.
+Albans-Dunstable road) is 1 mile N.E.
+
+_Turnford_ (11/4 mile S.W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet in
+Cheshunt parish, on the New River. _Broxbourne Bury Park_ is 1 mile N.
+
+_Two Waters_ owes its name to its position at the junction of two small
+rivers--the Gade and the Bulbourne. It is in Hemel Hempstead parish, and
+about 1 mile E. from Boxmoor Station.
+
+_Tyttenhanger._ (See Tittenhanger.)
+
+_Upwick Green_ (4 miles N.W. from Bishop's Stortford) is a hamlet on the
+Essex border. _Hadham Hall_ (see Little Hadham) is 1 mile S.
+
+VERULAM. Of the old Roman _municipium_ (_Verulamium_) there now remains
+above ground little more than some large fragments of crumbling wall in
+the valley of the Ver, immediately S.W. from St. Albans. Passing under
+the old Gatehouse and crossing the bridge at the Silk Mill the visitor,
+instead of turning right and following the course of the Ver, should
+keep straight on and pass the small gate into Verulam Woods. On his
+right as he follows the broad footpath will be the outer E. wall of the
+Roman city; on his left what appears a long gorge, overgrown by bushes
+and trees of many species, was once the _fosse_. Note the great
+thickness and solidity of the walls, and the tile-like bricks, similar
+to those in the Abbey tower, mingled with flints. Presently both wall
+and fosse turn sharply W. and may be followed in that direction for a
+considerable distance. The walls may also be traced at other spots
+farther W., particularly a large mass known as Gorhambury Block,
+believed to mark the boundary of the _municipium_ in that direction.
+
+It has been mentioned in the Introduction (Section IX.) that the only
+Roman theatre known to have existed in England stood in this
+neighbourhood. Its remains were discovered rather more than seventy
+years ago in a field immediately W. from St. Michael's Church; nothing
+is now to be seen, for the excavations have been again covered. The
+discovery included that of the stage, somewhat narrow, the _auditorium_,
+with many rows of seats, and portions of the frescoed walls. Many coins
+were found among the ruins.
+
+Mention must be made of the fact that the Roman _Verulamium_ was the
+scene of the awful massacre in the time of Boadicea, when the Queen of
+the Iceni, with a great number of followers, slew alike the British and
+Roman inhabitants and partially destroyed the city (A.D. 61). An
+account of this is in the _Annals_ of Tacitus. The place was
+subsequently rebuilt and occupied by the Saxons, who called it
+_Watlingceaster_, or _Werlamceaster_.
+
+_Wade's Mill._ (See Thundridge.)
+
+_Wakely_ (2 miles W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet in
+Westmill parish, consisting of a farm and a few cottages.
+
+WALKERN (41/2 miles E. from Stevenage) is a large village, with many
+picturesque nooks and cottages. The river Beane skirts it on the E.
+side. The manor is very ancient; Chauncy speaks of "Walkerne" as a town,
+and mentions a mill which stood in his day (1632-1719) at its S. end,
+presumably where Walkern Mill now stands. The church, on a knoll sloping
+to the Beane, is mostly Perp., but retains Norman work in the S. aisle;
+the chancel is modern, E.E. in style. The effigy in Purbeck marble in a
+recess of S. wall, of a knight in chain mail, is thought to represent
+one of the Lanvalei family. If so, it forms an interesting link with a
+remote past, for in the reign of King John one Alan Basset paid a
+hundred marks to that monarch, and gave him a palfrey "that his daughter
+might marry the heir of William de Lanvalley". There are also effigies
+on brass to the Humberstone family (sixteenth century). _Walkern Hall_
+(1 mile S.E.) stands in a small but pretty park; _Walkern Bury_ (1 mile
+E.) can still show some remains of a castle.
+
+WALLINGTON (31/2 miles E. from Baldock) lies in one of the most quiet
+districts of the county, a district almost entirely agricultural. The
+village is small; a few cottages are ancient and picturesque, but there
+is little to notice. Take the lane opposite the Plough Inn to reach the
+church, which can show a good Perp. roof and screen, and some mutilated
+monuments and brasses in the chapel. The main structure is Dec.; but the
+chancel was rebuilt forty years ago. A walk affording views very
+characteristic of Herts may be taken from the footpath near the walled
+pond adjoining the church, by bearing S.S.E. to Red Hill, Rushden and
+Cottered.
+
+_Walsworth_, a hamlet, is almost a suburb at the N.E. end of Hitchin, 1/2
+mile from the station.
+
+[Illustration: WALTHAM CROSS]
+
+WALTHAM CROSS, on the London-Cambridge road, owes its name, as is well
+known, to the Cross which Edward I. erected to the memory of Queen
+Eleanor about 11/4 mile W. from Waltham Abbey. The cross stands a little
+W. from Waltham Station (G.E.R.), where the above-mentioned road meets
+that which leads E. to the Abbey. Although frequently restored it is
+perhaps even now more complete than any other Eleanor Cross still
+existing. (That erected at St. Albans, as already stated, was destroyed
+about 200 years ago.) It is, I believe, disputed as to whether it was
+designed by Pietro Cavalini or not; it was completed in 1294. It is
+hexagonal in shape, of three stages, diminishing from basement to
+summit; the details of its sculpture can be readily seized by examining
+Mr. New's drawing. The restoration of 1833 was worked in Bath stone;
+this was largely replaced by new material, in Ketton stone, only a
+few years ago, at which time the Old Falcon Inn, which projected almost
+to the cross, was pulled down, thus affording a view of the monument
+from all sides.
+
+The Four Swans, close to the cross, dates from 1260, as is testified on
+the large, quaint sign-board which swings above the road; but only a few
+portions of the present structure are of any great antiquity. There is a
+modern church a little N. from the cross; but much of the district
+commonly called Waltham is in Essex. Of great interest to visitors,
+however, and about 1 mile W. from the Cross, is _Theobald's Park_, a
+brick mansion erected about 150 years back by Sir G. W. Prescott, Bart.
+At one of the entrances to the park stands Temple Bar, brought here from
+Fleet Street and erected in its present position in 1888. The house does
+not occupy the site of the historic manor house visited by so many
+sovereigns, which stood on a slight eminence some distance to the N.W.
+It was William Cecil, afterwards Lord Burghley, who commenced to build
+that famous mansion in 1560, and enlarged it considerably when he found
+it pleasant in the eyes of many persons of high degree. Queen Elizabeth
+was frequently a visitor at Theobalds. It was Burghley's son, Robert
+Cecil, who entertained James I. here as that monarch was on his way to
+London and the English Crown, and James became so pleased with the house
+and its surroundings that he obtained it from Cecil, giving him the
+royal manor of Hatfield in its stead. It was from _Theobalds_ that
+Charles I. set out to raise his standard at Nottingham (1642). The house
+was partially destroyed during the turmoil that ensued; after the
+Restoration it was given by Charles II. to George Monk. It was
+subsequently the property of the Earl of Portland and of several other
+persons.
+
+WARE was for a long period, and is perhaps now, the centre of the malt
+trade in Herts, but brickmaking is also extensively carried on. The
+river Lea skirts the town on the S. side, and is crossed by an iron
+bridge near the Barge Inn. The High Street displays many new houses and
+shops, but by turning into the smaller by-ways visitors may find quaint
+cottages and picturesque nooks and corners. The town is very ancient,
+but contained only a few persons at the time of the Conquest.
+
+The cruciform church of St. Mary has been much restored; the body of the
+present structure is Dec.; but the tower and chancel are Perp. Note (1)
+the carved oak screen separating the S. transept from the Lady-chapel;
+(2) sedilia, piscina and ambries in the chapel itself; (3) octagonal
+font (_temp._ Henry IV.), bearing figures of saints on its panels; (4)
+mural monument in S. transept to Sir Richard Fanshawe; (5) brass to W.
+Pyrry or Pyrey (d. 1470) and his wives Agnes and Alice, the inscription
+was apparently never completed; (6) curious brass figure near pulpit.
+There is also a modern church in the New Road, E.E. in style, of Kentish
+Rag and Bath Stone.
+
+There was a Franciscan Priory a little W. from the church, which,
+although sometimes said to have been founded by Margaret, Countess of
+Leicester (_temp._ Henry III.), was probably of much earlier foundation,
+though doubtless enlarged by that lady. It fell into decay after the
+Dissolution, but some remains of the old buildings are still to be seen
+at _Ware Priory_, a mansion occupying the site. The property formed a
+separate manor, which was given to the Countess of Richmond by her son,
+Henry VII.
+
+Ware is not without literary association. The Johnny Gilpin, on the road
+to Amwell, commemorates the hero of Cowper's ballad; Pepys mentions his
+visits to the town on several occasions; Dick Turpin, as the story runs
+in Ainsworth's _Rookwood_, passed through Ware in his famous ride to
+York; Godwin, who figures so largely in the Lamb literature, was for
+some years the Independent minister of the town. By a long ascent N.
+from the town, we reach, by turning right, the hamlet of _Ware Side_,
+picturesquely scattered over a slight depression close to _Widford_
+(_q.v._). W. from the town is _Ware Park_, a mansion on a beautiful
+eminence.
+
+_Warren's Green_ (about 4 miles N.E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is
+a small hamlet.
+
+_Water End_, on the river Gade, is on the S.W. confines of Gaddesden
+Park. There are also hamlets of the same name (1) close to Ayot Station,
+G.N.R.; (2) at the E. extremity of Mimms Park, 2 miles N.W. from
+Potter's Bar Station (Middlesex).
+
+_Waterford_ and _Waterford Marsh_ are in Bengeo parish, on the river
+Beane. On the marsh is some grazing common, free to all parishioners.
+
+_Waterside_ is the name of a few cottages (1) on the river Gade, near
+King's Langley village; (2) at Mill Green, 1 mile N.E. from Hatfield.
+
+WATFORD, including its quickly rising suburbs, is much the largest town
+in Hertfordshire. The Colne crosses the high road where it dips before
+rising towards Bushey, and Chauncy says that the town derives its name
+from the Wet Ford by which the river is crossed. The building of the
+Junction Station (L.&N.W.R.), N.E. from the High Street, did much to
+facilitate the growth of Watford and extend its trade; the railroad
+diverges S.W. to Rickmansworth only, and N.E. to Bricket Wood, Park
+Street and St. Albans; the main line from London passes through a long
+tunnel before reaching King's Langley Station. The antiquities of the
+town itself are less interesting and indeed less known than those of
+other towns in the county, and Chauncy, _e.g._, finds little to say
+about it. The manor was long held by the abbots of St. Albans; then it
+became Crown property, and after several changes of ownership passed to
+William, fourth Earl of Essex, whose descendants are still lords of the
+manor.
+
+The parish church, on a small yard adjoining the S. side of the High
+Street, is Perp., and was well restored about fifty years ago; with its
+_Katherine-_ and _Essex Chapels_ it forms a large and imposing
+structure. The latter chapel was built in 1595 by Bridget, Countess of
+Bedford. Its monuments are very numerous and comprise (1) to Sir Charles
+Morison, Kt. (d. 1599), and Dorothy his wife; note the fine kneeling
+effigies; (2) to Sir Charles Morison, K.B., son of the foregoing (d.
+1628), and the Hon. Mary (Hicks) his wife, with recumbent effigies one
+above the other, and attendant figures of a daughter and two sons (note
+the Corinthian columns which support the canopy overshadowing the
+whole); both these Morison monuments were the work of Nicholas Stone,
+mentioned in Walpole's _Anecdotes_; (3) altar-tomb to the founder of the
+chapel (d. 1600); (4) altar-tomb with Tuscan columns and recumbent
+effigy to Elizabeth, wife of Sir William Russell (d. 1611). Among the
+brasses are those to (1) Henry Dickson (d. 1610); George Miller (d.
+1613) and Anthony Cooper, "servants to Sir Charles Morryson, Kt."; (2)
+imperfect, Hugo de Holes, Justice of the King's Bench (d. 1415), and
+Margaretta his wife (d. 1416); (3) Henry Baldwyn of Reedheath (d. 1601),
+Alice, his wife, and three children; (4) James Moss, a messenger to
+George II. (d. 1758).
+
+There are modern churches: (1) St. John's, in the Sutton Road, a Gothic
+edifice completed in 1893; (2) St. Andrew's, near the Junction, E.E. in
+design, with a good stained glass window in the S. aisle, and a
+beautiful Roman Catholic church by Bentley, architect of Westminster
+cathedral. In Beechen Grove is one of the finest Nonconformist (Baptist)
+chapels in the county; it dates from 1878 and is Italian in design.
+Market day is on Tuesday.
+
+CASHIOBURY PARK stretches from the N.W. end of Watford,
+reaching--together with Grove Park, which it joins--to the parting of
+the ways at Langleybury Church (4 miles N.W. from Watford Old Church).
+It is crossed from N. to S. by the river Gade. The present mansion dates
+from 1800; it was built by Wyatt for the fifth Earl of Essex. Disposed
+around an open courtyard, its many handsome apartments make a noble
+appearance; what was formerly part of the N. wing of the old mansion
+built by Sir Richard Morrison and his son Charles in the sixteenth
+century is still retained, although that house was largely rebuilt by
+the first earl, from designs furnished by Hugh May. There is a fine
+library, and three smaller ones, the collection of books being very
+valuable; but in the estimation of many the pictures are still more so.
+Among them may be named: (1) Arthur Lord Capel and his family, C.
+Janssens; this was the Capel who defended Colchester and was beheaded in
+1649; (2) Charles II., by Lely; (3) fifth Earl of Essex as a boy with
+his sister, by Reynolds, in frame carved by Grinling Gibbons; (4)
+Countess of Ranelagh, full length, by Kneller; (5) portrait by Rubens,
+probably of Charlotte de la Tremouille, afterwards Countess of Derby;
+(6) "Moll Davis" (actress), by Lely. There are many others, especially
+further portraits of the Capel family. The park and grounds are
+beautifully laid out. The park is open to the public; but the house is
+shown only by special request.
+
+WATTON or WATTON AT STONE is a large village on the Hertford-Stevenage
+road and the river Beane, 31/2 miles S.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.
+Its position is very central, the roads from Ware, Hertford, Great and
+Little Munden, Walkern, Stevenage, Welwyn and Tewin all converging
+within the area of the main street. The church, at the S. end of the
+village, is Perp.; it was entirely restored in 1851. Note (1) piscina
+and triple sedilia in chancel; (2) doors formerly leading to rood loft;
+(3) curious tombstone, E.E., in the churchyard; (4) E. window of stained
+glass, dating from the Restoration; (5) memorial window in the S. aisle
+to Lady Catherine Barrington. The brasses are unusually old and
+interesting, _e.g._, (1) with canopied effigy, to Sir Philip Peletot (d.
+1361); (2) to Sir E. Bardolf (d. 1455); the effigy is that of his wife,
+his own having been long missing; (3) to John Boteler (Butler) and
+family (1514). The Boteler family, to whom there are many other
+memorials in the church, lived for many generations in the manor house
+of Woodhall, burnt in 1771. The house stood on high ground in the
+beautiful _Woodhall Park_, E. from Watton Church, on the site occupied
+by the present fine mansion (Abel Smith, Esq., J.P.). The Beane flows
+through the park and has been widened to form a large sheet of water S.
+from the house.
+
+_Welham Green_ is between Hatfield- and Mimms Parks, 2 miles S. from
+Hatfield Station.
+
+_Wellbury_ is 3 miles W. from Hitchin. _Wellbury House_ (modern) stands
+in a small park; two small places of few inhabitants, called "Old" and
+"New" Wellbury, lie on the N.E. outskirts of the Park.
+
+WELWYN, a small town in the Maran Valley, can show little of interest
+beyond many quaint cottages, and the church, famous as that in which Dr.
+Edward Young, author of _Night Thoughts_, officiated from 1730 to 1765.
+He was buried in the church; the mural memorial to him was erected by
+his son. The church is Dec., with E.E. portions; the piscina in the
+chancel is ancient, the sedilia is modern. An inventory of the church
+furniture, taken in 1541, shows that there were formerly three altars in
+it. The avenue of limes in the rectory grounds was planted by Young;
+there is a Latin inscription to the poet on a pedestal at its upper end.
+His son was visited here by Dr. Johnson and James Boswell.
+
+The walk S.E. to the station (11/4 mile) commands a fine view of the Great
+Northern viaduct of forty arches over the deeper portion of the Maran
+Valley. On the opposite (left) side of the road is _Locksleys_, a good
+mansion by the river side, surrounded by charming grounds. One mile S.
+is _The Frythe_, long the residence of the Wilshere family; at a rather
+less distance N. is _Danesbury_, a prettily designed mansion in a small
+park.
+
+"King Etheldred ... willing to relieve his people from the barbarous
+usuage and the inhuman actions of the insulting Danes ... sent
+instructions to the Governors of all cities, boroughs and towns in his
+dominions, commanding, that at a certain hour upon the feast of St.
+Brice, all the Danes should be massacred; and common fame tells us that
+this massacre began at a little town called Welwine in Hertfordshire,
+within twenty-four miles of London, in the year 1012, from which Act,
+'tis said this Vill received the name of Welwine, because the Weal of
+this county (as it was then thought) was there first won; but the Saxons
+long before called this town Welnes, from the many springs which rise in
+this Vill; for in old time Wells in their language were term'd Welnes."
+
+One of the springs in the neighbourhood, now disused, was famous in
+Young's day for its chalybeate waters.
+
+_West End_ is a hamlet 2 miles S.W. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. It
+lies close to the N.W. corner of _Bedwell Park_, with the river Lea 1
+mile N.
+
+_West Hyde_, in the extreme S.W. of the county, near the river Colne,
+has a modern cruciform church, Italian in style.
+
+WESTMILL, a church and picturesque cluster of cottages in a hollow a
+little W. from the Buntingford Road, is 11/2 mile S. from that town. The
+river Rib runs between the church and the station (G.E.R.). The manor is
+ancient; it was given by William I. to Robert de Olgi. Nathanial Salmon,
+author of a _History of Hertfordshire_ published in 1728, was once
+curate here.
+
+The church very probably dates from the end of the thirteenth century,
+and is an E.E. flint structure. There are some old slabs in the chancel
+to the Bellenden family, and one on the nave floor bearing an
+inscription to one Thomas de Leukenor (?).
+
+_Westmill Green_ is a hamlet 11/2 mile S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.
+
+WESTON, a large village 3 miles S.E. from Baldock, has an interesting,
+restored church, dating from about 1200. It has a N. transept, in which
+are two good Norman windows; a piscina, E.E., is in the nave. The
+massive embattled tower, which carries an octagonal, N.E. turret, was
+rebuilt in 1867. In the churchyard may be seen two small stones, about
+four yards apart, which, according to local tradition, mark the grave of
+the Weston giant. The church was once a property of the Knights
+Templars. There is what seems a second village just where a narrow
+footpath leads from the Lufen Hall Road to the church, which stands 1/2
+mile E. from the long main street. Many folk may still be noticed
+plaiting in the neighbourhood.
+
+_Weston Dane End_ (11/2 mile S. from the above village) is a hamlet on
+the road to Walkern.
+
+_Westwick Row_ (2 miles S.E. from Hemel Hempstead) is a hamlet near
+Leverstock Green, in a charming neighbourhood.
+
+WHEATHAMPSTEAD lies in a hollow, in the valley of the Lea. Cyclists
+approaching the village from St. Albans by way of Sandridge and No Man's
+Land must beware of the steep descent from the Old Red Cow to the Swan
+Inn. The place undoubtedly owes its name to the fine wheat grown in the
+neighbourhood; it is very picturesque, particularly around the church
+and vicarage, and by the waterside towards _Brocket Hall_.
+
+The cruciform church, W. from the centre of the village, is E.E. and
+Dec. with a few Perp. features. A doorway in the _Brocket Chapel_ is
+supposed to be Saxon, but I cannot say whether the supposition is
+correct; the chapel also contains an altar-tomb with effigies of Sir
+John Brocket and his wife, Margaret, bearing date 1543, and a piscina in
+the S. wall. A brass of much interest is that to Hugh Bostock and his
+wife, Margaret (_circa_ 1450), showing their figures in robes. These
+persons were the parents of John de Wheathampsted. (See St. Albans.) An
+old marble tablet is to John Heyworth (d. 1558) and his wife Joan. Note
+also the monumental effigies in N. transept to Sir John Garrard, Bart.
+(d. 1637), and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1632). The _reredos_ is very fine.
+
+Forty years ago the village was truly rural, but the rebuilding of the
+old mill between the church and station (G.N.R. branch from Hatfield to
+Dunstable) and the erection of several modern shops in the main street
+has altered its appearance. _Wheathampstead House_, close to the
+station, is the seat of Earl Cavan; _Lamer Park_, a little N., slopes
+pleasantly towards the fine home of A. G. B. Cherry-Garrard, Esq.
+
+Mention must be made of the curious bronze vessel of the Anglo-Saxon
+period, resembling a teapot, found in the neighbourhood some years ago.
+It is figured and described in the recently published _Victoria History
+of Hertfordshire_.
+
+_Wheathampstead Cross_ (11/2 mile S.E. from Harpenden Station, M.R.) is 2
+miles S.W. from the above village. It contains nothing but a few
+cottages.
+
+_Whempstead_, a hamlet in the centre of the county, is not easily
+reached, being about 5 miles E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R., and
+rather farther N.W. from Ware. The so-called _Whempstead Chapel_,
+recently demolished, was a small cottage, but it doubtless stood near
+the site of an old chapel "founded and endowed about the beginning of
+the thirteenth century by the family of Aguillon".
+
+_White Barns_, near the Essex border, is a hamlet 3/4 mile N. from
+Furneaux Pelham (_q.v._).
+
+_Whitwell_ (41/2 miles S.W. from Stevenage) is strictly a hamlet, but is a
+place of some size, scattered along the S. bank of the river Maran. The
+nearest parish church is at St. Paul's Walden (_q.v._), but there is a
+modern Baptist chapel near the centre of the main street, and a small
+church on the Bendish Road, formerly owned by the Countess of
+Huntingdon's Connection; it is now partially disused. The mill at the E.
+end of the village, near the old tan-yard, was burnt down many years
+ago, but has since been rebuilt.
+
+_Widbury_ is 1 mile E. from Ware.
+
+WIDFORD, so interesting in the eyes of all lovers of Charles Lamb, is a
+small village on the river Ash, with a station (G.E.R.) a few minutes W.
+from the church. Visitors, however, must remember that much in the
+neighbourhood has changed since Lamb's day. He himself recorded the
+demolition of the old house "Blakesware" or, as he wrote it,
+"Blakesmoor,"[o] which he knew so well as a child; the church spire,
+mentioned in his verses "The Grandame," was rebuilt many years back; the
+cottage at _Blenheim_ close by, immortalised in _Rosamund Gray_, was
+long ago rebuilt.
+
+The church is Dec. and Perp.; there are sedilia in the chancel, the roof
+of which was finely painted by Miss Gosselin forty years ago, and there
+is a piscina in the nave. The circular stone staircase that formerly led
+to the old rood-loft was built up during restoration. The present E.
+window is to the memory of John Eliot--the missionary to the
+Indians--born at Nazing early in the seventeenth century. There are very
+few memorials; one might almost repeat the words written of the church
+two centuries ago, "In this church are no gravestones". The manor is
+very ancient and was held in the reign of William I. by the Bishop of
+London.
+
+_Wigginton_ lies on very high ground, commanding splendid views. The
+village is about 11/2 mile S.W. from Tring Station, L.&N.W.R.; the church,
+near the parting of the roads at its S.E. extremity, is a small flint
+structure, E.E. in style, with a modern N. aisle. It has no tower.
+_Champneys_, near Wigginton Common (1 mile S.), is a prettily situated
+mansion, rebuilt in 1874. It was formerly the residence of the Valpy
+family.
+
+_Wilbury Hill_, between Ickleford and Baldock, is crossed by the Roman
+Icknield Way. The _vallum_, through which the Way passes, is thought to
+mark the site of a Roman camp; Stukeley's suggestion that it was
+probably the site of a British _oppidum_ is questioned by Salmon
+(_History of Hertfordshire_, 1728). Roman coins have been found in some
+abundance in the neighbourhood, notably a silver _Faustina_.
+
+_Wild Hill_ is between Hatfield and Bedwell Parks.
+
+_Willian_, formerly Wylie (2 miles N.E. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.),
+is very ancient, mention of it as a property dating from the times of
+the Mercian kings. The village lies 1 mile W. from the Great North Road.
+The church is thought to date from the Conquest, but only an arch in the
+chancel is Norman. Note (1) the monument to "Edvardus Lacon" (d. 1625),
+and Joanna his wife (d. 1624); (2) small brass to Richard Goldon, a
+former vicar (d. 1446--? 1417). A tiny graveyard surrounds the church.
+_Roxley Court_ (1/2 mile S.) is the property of Colonel Mortimer Hancock.
+
+_Wilstone_, near the Aylesbury Canal, lies in a hollow 2 miles S.E. from
+Marston Gate Station, L.&N.W.R. It has a modern church, E.E. in style,
+consisting of nave only.
+
+_Windridge_, a ward of St. Stephen's parish, is 11/2 mile S.W. from the
+L.&N.W.R. Station at the foot of Holywell Hill, St. Albans.
+
+_Winter Green_ is on the N.W. confines of Knebworth Park, about 1 mile
+from the church and 2 miles from the station (G.N.R.). The neighbourhood
+is on high ground.
+
+_Woodend_ (31/2 miles S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) has a numerous
+population, but is, I believe, a hamlet in Ardeley parish. The modern
+Chapel of St. Alban the Martyr is built largely of small stones, and has
+a S. porch. _Walkern Park_ is 3/4 mile S.W.
+
+_Woodhall_ (11/2 mile N.N.E. from Hatfield) is a scattered hamlet between
+Stanborough and Hatfield Hyde. Two farms and several cottages bear the
+name. Woodhall Woods are a little farther N.
+
+_Woodhill_ (about 31/2 miles S.E. from Hatfield) is prettily situated,
+with _Brookmans_, _Hatfield_ and _Bedwell_ Parks all within a short
+walk. St. Mark's Chapel-of-Ease was rebuilt in 1880, although originally
+erected only in 1852 by the then Marquess of Salisbury.
+
+_Woodside_ is the name of at least three small places, (1) in the
+neighbourhood of Hatfield, where Upper and Lower Woodside are at the
+S.E. side of the park; (2) a ward in the parish of Cheshunt; (3) in the
+parish of Leavesden.
+
+_Woollen's Brook_, on the Hoddesdon-Hertford road, has a tiny Mission
+Church. It is a small hamlet, a little S. from Haileybury College.
+
+_Woolmer Green_ lies on the Great North Road, 1 mile S.E. from Knebworth
+Station, G.N.R. The roads from Welwyn, Stevenage and Bramfield meet at
+the S. end of the street. The hamlet is considerable.
+
+WORMLEY (1 mile S.W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is on the New
+River. The church is at _Wormley Bury_, 1/2 mile W. from the village; it
+is very ancient, but was restored twenty years ago. Note (1) Norman
+font; (2) small Norman doorway on N. side; (3) "The Last Supper," by
+Giacomo Palma, a fine picture over the communion table; (4) rebuilt
+chancel arch; (5) Perp. windows in nave; (6) tablet on S. wall to Gough
+the antiquary (d. at Enfield, 1809). Gough completed a translation of a
+French history of the Bible in his thirteenth year, which was printed
+for private circulation; he subsequently translated Fleury's work on
+Israelitish customs and edited Camden's _Britannia_. He bequeathed many
+MSS. to Oxford University.
+
+The church contains other modern monuments, and there are brasses (1) to
+John Cleve, Rector (d. 1404); (2) to Edward Howton (d. 1479), his wife
+and family; (3) to John Cok, his wife and eleven sons; date uncertain,
+but presumably fifteenth century. Cok or Cock was the name of a very old
+family in the neighbourhood, especially at Broxbourne.
+
+WYDDIAL (11/2 mile N.E. from Buntingford) was called _Widihale_ in
+_Domesday Book_, and was given by William I. to Hardwin de Scalers. The
+walk from Buntingford up the hill to the ruined church at Layston
+(_q.v._), and thence to this village, leads through some of the quietest
+spots in the county. The church is E.E., and stands on high ground a few
+yards N. from the road and about 1 mile W. from the river Quin. It was
+restored sixty years ago; but still retains two seventeenth-century
+stained-glass windows in the aisle, and two Jacobean screens. The little
+N. chapel of brick was built by one George Canon in 1632. The brasses
+include (1) to George Gyll, Lord of the Manor (d. 1546); (2) to Dame
+Margaret (Plumbe), a daughter of Sir Thomas Neville, Kt., and wife to
+Sir Robert Southwell, Master of the Rolls (d. 1575). There are many
+memorials to the Goulston family, several of whom were Lords of the
+Manor; that to Sir Richard Goulston (d. 1686) bears a long inscription
+in Latin. _Wyddial Hall_, in a small park close to the church, was the
+property of the Goulstons.
+
+WYMONDLEY, GREAT or MUCH, is nearly 2 miles S.E. from Hitchin Station,
+G.N.R. The church dates from early in the twelfth century, but has been
+much restored. The font, the chancel arch, and three windows in the
+chancel are said to be Norman; the tower is Perp. The memorials are
+unimportant.
+
+The neighbourhood is interesting. The Lords of the Manor of Wymondley
+Magna were formerly, as the newspapers have recently reminded us,
+Cup-bearers to the King at his Coronation. Near the church are some
+traces of an ancient fortification; a little S., and opposite a row of
+quaint cottages with heavily thatched roofs, stands _Delamere House_,
+once the property of Cardinal Wolsey, who is said to have been visited
+here by Henry VIII. At the _Manor Farm_, Edward VI.--according to
+tradition--once slept; the Green Man, close by, on the W. side of the
+main street, has been kept by successive generations of one family for
+300 years. Forty years ago several Roman urns were discovered in the
+neighbourhood, and the well-preserved pavement of a Roman villa was
+unearthed, subsequently, at Purwell Mill, between the village and
+Hitchin. Prehistoric implements have also been found.
+
+WYMONDLEY, LITTLE, formerly Wymondley Parva, is 1 mile S. from the
+above. The E. end of the street is crossed by the G.N.R. near the tiny
+churchyard. The church is Perp.; and was largely rebuilt in 1875; two
+earlier structures are thought to have occupied the site. It contains
+several inscriptions, and some monuments to the Needham family
+(seventeenth century). A Priory of Augustinian Canons, dedicated to St.
+Mary, was founded here by Richard Argenton, in the reign of Henry III.;
+it was suppressed at the Dissolution. When, in 1891, the _Old Priory_
+farm-house was being altered, some portions of two E.E. arches were
+disclosed, and are thought to show where the cloister of the _Priory_
+stood. There is another E.E. arch in the house.
+
+YARDLEY. (See Ardeley.)
+
+_Youngsbury._ (See High Cross.)
+
+
+
+
+INDEX OF PERSONS
+
+
+A
+
+Abbot d'Aubeny, 62, 179, 188
+  ---- Eadmer, 186
+  ---- Ealdred, 186
+  ---- Geoffrey de Gorham, 148, 179, 184, 185, 187
+  ---- Hugh de Eversden, 189, 194
+  ---- John de Berkhampstead, 189
+  ---- John de Cella, 188
+  ---- John de Hertford, 123, 189
+  ---- John de Marinis, 189
+  ---- John de la Moote, 64, 145, 198
+  ---- John  Wheathampsted, 146, 147, 167, 190, 193, 196, 225
+  ---- Leofstan, 186
+  ---- Michael de Mentmore, 189
+  ---- Paul de Caen, 187, 191
+  ---- Ralph, 119
+  ---- Ramryge, 193
+  ---- Robert de Gorham, 197
+  ---- Roger de Norton, 63, 157, 189
+  ---- Symon, 37, 188
+  ---- Thomas de la Mare, 91, 179, 189
+  ---- Ulsinus, 181, 182
+  ---- Warren de Cambridge, 179, 184, 188
+  ---- William de Trumpyntone, 188
+  ---- Wm. Wallingford, 190
+
+Adane (brass), 135
+
+Adrian IV., 41, 45, 193
+
+Aguillon family, 226
+
+Alan the Red, 85
+
+Alban, a rector (brass), 103
+  ---- St., 31, 37, 59, 177, 186, 188, 193
+
+Albyn (brass), 114
+
+Aldenham, Lord, 49
+
+Alford, Lady M., 99, 154
+
+Alfred the Great, 31, 117, 118
+
+Altham, Helen, 159
+  ---- Sir J., 159
+
+Alwin the Thane, 48
+
+Amphibalus, St., 37, 166, 177, 188, 193
+
+Anestie, Rich. de, 51
+
+Anne of Bohemia, 136
+  ---- Mortimer, 137
+
+Anorbul, Wm. (brass), 107   {Annabull in text}
+
+Anthony, W., 81
+
+Antoninus (quoted), 84, 94, 117, 177
+
+Aram, Eugene, 127, 201
+
+Arbuthnot, C. G., 94
+
+Archer, Robt., 85
+
+Argenthem, R. de, 60
+
+Argenton, Rich., 233
+
+Arnald the "Leveller," 120
+
+Ascham, Roger, 110
+
+Asser, 117
+
+Athelstan, 51
+
+Atkins, Sir E., 47
+
+Axtil, Henry, 157
+
+Aylmer, Bishop, 103
+  ---- Judith, 103
+
+
+B
+
+Babthorpe, Ralph, 182
+
+Bache, Simon (brass), 141
+
+Bacon, Francis, 40, 161, 183, 184
+
+Bacon, Sir Nich., 184
+
+Baesh family, 175, 203, 204
+
+Baker, H. W. Clinton-, 69
+  ---- W. R., 68
+
+Baldwyn family (brass), 219
+
+Barclay, E. E., 78
+
+Bardolf, Sir E. (brass), 221
+
+Barrington family, 141, 221
+
+Bartolommeo, 160
+
+Basset, Alan, 213
+  ---- Wm., 174
+
+Baugiard, Ralph, 130
+
+Baxter, Rich., 41, 135, 199, 209
+
+Beaufort, Edmund, 196
+
+Becket, Thomas, 76
+
+Bede (quoted), 117, 178, 186, 193
+
+Beel family (brass), 127
+
+Beldam, J., F.S.A., 173
+
+Bell, John (brass), 166
+
+Bellenden family, 224
+
+"Belted Will Howard," 63
+
+Benham, Canon, quoted, 50
+
+Benson, Mgr. R. H., 43
+
+Benstede, Sir J., 71
+
+Beresford family, 150
+
+Bernard de Baliol, 126, 163
+
+Bertulf, King, 71
+
+Bessemer, Sir H., 41
+
+Bickerdy, Marmaduke, 46
+
+Binning, Lord, 63
+
+Bishop, Mr., 31
+
+Blomfield, Sir A. W., 49, 55, 93, 105, 168, 205
+
+Blount family, 170, 171
+  ---- Sir H., 145
+
+Boadicea, 31, 212
+
+Bodley, Mr. G. F., 85, 209
+
+Bokeland, Nich. de, 80
+
+Boleyn, Anne, 58
+
+Bonham, Miss, 59
+
+Bonner, Bishop, 41, 179
+
+Borrell, Sir J. (brass), 80
+
+Bostock, Hugh, 147, (brass) 225
+  ---- Margaret (brass), 225
+
+Boswell, James, 40, 222
+
+Boteler family, 57, (brass) 81, 150, 221
+
+Bouchier, Sir T., 139
+
+Bowlby, A. S., 100
+
+Bradby, Canon, 106
+
+Brakespear, Nich., 41, 45, 193   {Breakspeare in text}
+
+Bramfield family (brass), 87
+
+Braybroke, Bishop, 103
+
+Bridget, Countess, 219
+
+Bridgewater family (see Egerton)
+
+Brockett family, 113, 225
+
+Browne, Dean J., 121
+
+Buckingham, Duke of, 195
+
+Bucknall family, 159
+
+Bunsen, Baron, 209
+
+Bunyan, John, 40, 88, 127, 163
+
+Burghley, Lord, 109, 110, 111, 215
+
+Burgo, Elizabeth de, 82
+
+Burgundy, Duke of, 66
+
+Burnet, Bishop, 63
+
+Butterfield, W., 64
+
+
+C
+
+Caesar family, 71
+
+Calvert family, 121
+
+Canon, Geo., 231
+
+Capell family, 42, 104, 105, 218, 220, 221
+
+Carlo Dolce, 160
+
+Caroline, Queen, 156
+
+Carter family (brass), 138
+
+Cary family (brasses), 49, 130, 132, 169
+
+Cassivelaunus, 34    {Cassivellaunus in text}
+
+Catherine of Arragon, 148
+  ---- Braganza, 184
+
+Cavan, Earl, 42, 226
+
+Cecil, Sir Robt., 42, 109, 110, 113, 215
+  ---- Thomas, 111
+
+Chamberlain, Sir W., 196
+
+Chamber, Father (brass), 172
+
+Chantrey (sculptor), 81
+
+Chapman, Geo., 40, 127
+
+Chapple, John, 192
+
+Charlemagne, 186
+
+Charles I., 32, 46, 111, 119, 173, 197, 216
+  ---- II., 32, 105, 176, 210, 216, 220
+
+Chaucer, 39
+
+Chauncy family, 100
+  ---- Sir H, (quoted), 31, 46, 52, 54, 58, 63, 66, 74, 81, 84, 87, 91,
+       96, 100, 115, 132, 137, 150, 157, 174, 175, 182, 200, 207, 218
+
+Chester family, 61
+  ---- Robt., 173
+
+Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, 199
+
+Citroen, David, 94
+
+Clarendon, Earl of, 43, 143
+
+Clarkson (charity), 60
+  ---- Thomas, 208
+
+Cleve, Rev. John (brass), 230
+
+Clifford, Lord John, 196
+
+Clinton family, 61
+
+Clutterbuck, Robt. (quoted), 31, 180
+
+Clyfford, Eliza. (brass), 56
+  ---- Sir Robt. (brass), 56
+
+Cobb, Rev. J. W., 31
+
+Cock, Sir H., 80
+  ---- (Cok) family (brasses), 231
+
+Cogdell, T. (brass), 46
+
+Coke, Mildred, 111
+
+Conan, Duke of Brittany, 153
+
+Coningsby, Sir R., 151
+
+Cooch, 60
+
+Cooper, Anthony (brass), 219
+  ---- Sir A. Paston, 115
+  ---- Sir A. Paston Paston, 116
+
+Cottenham, Lord, 209
+
+Cotton, Dr., 40, 180, 182
+  ---- Sir J., 154
+
+Courtenay, Henry, 94
+
+Covert, Sir H. (brass), 150
+
+Cowper, Ann, 72
+  ---- family, 42, 121, 143, 161
+  ---- William, 40, 71, 72, 73, 148, 180, 182
+
+Cressye, W. and G. (brasses), 107
+
+Cromwell, Oliver, 32, 120
+  ---- Richard, 86
+
+Crossman, Mr. Alan F., 21
+
+Crouchback, Edmund, 53
+
+Crowch family, 142
+
+Cudworth, 41
+
+Curll, William, 113
+
+Cussans, J. E., 31, 130
+
+Cutts, Sir John, 201
+
+
+D
+
+Dacre family, 136
+
+Dacres, Robert, 85
+
+David of Scotland, 119
+
+Day family (brass), 169
+
+De Furneaux family, 97, 205
+
+Delawood, W. (brass), 130
+
+Denny, Lady M. (brass), 75
+
+De Ros family, 93
+
+De Toni family, 93
+
+Desborough, Lord, 159
+
+Devereux, Robt., 184
+
+Dickens, Chas., 40, 140
+
+Dickson, Henry (brass), 219
+
+"Dick Turpin," 217
+
+Dion Cassius (quoted), 31
+
+Dixon, Nich. (brass), 85
+
+Docwra family, 145, 162
+
+Doddridge, Rev. P., 41
+
+Dodyngton family (brasses), 177
+
+Dowman family (brass), 155
+
+Duckett, Sir G., 75
+
+Dugdale, quoted, 52, 71, 207
+
+Dyer, Sir W. (brass), 154
+
+
+E
+
+Ebury, Lord, 42, 169
+
+Edelwine the Black, 45, 166    {Egelwine in text}
+
+Edgar, King, 103, 105, 108
+
+Edmund de Langley, 136, 137
+  ---- of Hadham, 103
+  ---- St., 193
+
+Edward I., 180, 214
+  ---- II., 136, 210
+  ---- III., 72, 82, 85, 103
+  ---- IV., 65, 183
+  ---- VI., 56, 108, 110, 154, 168, 202, 232
+  ---- Black Prince, 72
+  ---- the Elder, 118
+
+Egerton family, 42, 47, 53, 98, 154
+
+Egfrith, 198
+
+Eleanor, Queen, 180, 214
+
+Eliot, John, 227
+
+Elizabeth, Queen, 32, 56, 75, 95, 108, 109, 111, 114, 119, 131, 132, 140,
+                  184, 197, 202, 215
+
+Ellis, Thos. and Grace, 121
+
+Elwes family, 208
+
+Entwysel, Sir B., 182
+
+Eric (Baron Reay), 70
+
+Essex, Earls of (see Capell)
+
+Ethelbert, 186
+
+Etheldred, 223
+
+Etheric, Bishop, 207
+
+Eustace de Mere, 172
+  ---- Earl of Boulogne, 130
+
+Evans, Sir John, K.C.B., 33, 35, 138, 153, 155
+
+Evelyn, John, 26
+
+
+F
+
+Fanshawe, Sir Rich., 63, 216
+
+Feilde family, 204
+
+Field, Dr. Nat., 41
+
+Fitzroy, James, 169
+
+Flambard, Simon, 103
+
+Flaunden, Thos., 96
+
+Fleetwood, Bishop, 41
+
+Floyer (Flyer?) family, 78
+
+Forester family, 89
+
+Forster, John, 40, 140
+
+Fortescue, Sir Rich., 196
+
+Fouke, Sir B., 95
+
+Fountaine, Andrew, 151
+
+Fox, George, 41, 127
+
+Freeman, Dr., 58
+
+Frewell (Knight), 153
+
+Frowyk family (brasses), 152
+
+
+G
+
+Garrard, A. G. B. Cherry-, 226
+  ---- Sir J. and Elizabeth, 225
+
+Gaveston, Piers, 41, 136
+
+Geoffrey, Johannes (brass), 198
+  ---- Treasurer, 46
+
+George II., 219
+  ---- III., 209
+
+Gernon, Robt., 144
+
+Gerrard de Furnival, 152
+
+Giacomo Palma, 230
+
+Giant of Weston, 102, 224
+
+Gibbons, Grinling, 220
+
+Gibbs, Mr. A. E., F.L.S. (quoted), 31, 185
+
+Gildas, 178, 186
+
+Giles-Puller, G. B., 124
+
+Glamis, Lord, 43    {Not found in text}
+
+Glascocke, Hon. Sir W., 138
+
+Godwin, Harold, 58, 165
+
+Godwin, Leofwin, 164
+  ---- William, 41, 217
+
+Goisfride de Bech, 145
+
+Goldon, Rich. (brass), 229
+
+Gore family, 100, 104, 210
+
+Gosselin, Miss, 227
+
+Gough the Antiquary, 230
+
+Goulston family, 231
+
+Gray, James (brass), 132
+
+Grimston family, 184, 206
+
+Grimthorpe, Lord, 43, 179, 181, 183, 185, 191
+
+Grose, F. (quoted), 23, 84, 194
+
+Gyll, Geo. (brass), 231
+
+
+H
+
+Haggard, Mr. H. Rider, 54
+
+Hall, Robert, 135
+
+Halsey family, 98
+
+Hamilton, Hon. Geo., 101
+  ---- Jane, 101
+
+Hampden, Viscount, 42, 136
+
+Hanbury, C. A., 63
+
+Hancock, Col. M., 229
+
+Harcourt family, 48
+
+Hardwicke, Earl, 145
+
+Hardwin de Scalers, 125, 231
+
+Harrington, Sir W., 121
+
+Harrison, Sir John, 120
+
+Harvey, Sir Garrett, 104    {Garratt in text}
+
+Hawksmoor, Nich., 201
+
+Helen, St., 59
+
+Helle, Roger, 136
+
+Henry II., 63, 72
+  ---- III., 83, 85, 136, 168
+  ---- IV., 91, 119
+  ---- V., 91, 119, 141, 200
+  ---- VI., 56, 119, 138, 141, 175, 195, 196
+  ---- VII., 110, 217
+  ---- VIII., 58, 80, 85, 108, 132, 148, 201, 202, 232
+  ---- of Huntingdon, 117
+
+Herkomer, Prof., 106
+
+"Hermit of Herts," 205
+
+Hert, James (brass), 127
+
+Heydon family, 159
+
+Heyworth, John and Joan, 225
+
+Hide family, 48
+  ---- Leonard, 131
+
+Hippolits, St., 134
+
+Hogarth, 143
+
+Holes, Justice (brass), 219
+
+Hollinshed (quoted), 196    {Hollinshead in text}
+
+Hoore family (brass), 92
+
+Hopkinson, Mr. J., F.L.S., 12
+
+Horsley, Bishop, 41
+
+Horwode, Ralph (brass), 46
+
+Hotoft, John (brass), 141
+
+Howard of Escrick, 176
+
+Howe, Lord, 201
+
+Howton family (brass), 230
+
+Hugh of Lincoln, 193
+
+Hughes family (brasses), 134
+
+Humberstone family (brasses), 213
+
+Humphrey, Duke of Gloster, 190    {Gloucester in text}
+  ---- Earl, 195
+
+Hutchinson, 48
+
+
+I
+
+Incent, Dr. John, 71
+
+Isabel of Castile, 136, 137
+
+Isabella of France, 119
+  ---- (2nd wife, Rich. II.), 120
+
+
+J
+
+Jack o' Legs, 102, 224
+
+James I., 41, 42, 109, 111, 119, 131, 173, 197, 215
+  ---- II., 32, 176
+
+Janeway, James, 135
+  ---- John, 135
+
+Janssens, C., 143, 161, 220
+
+Jennings, Admiral, 61
+  ---- family, 199
+
+Jerrold, Douglas, 140
+
+Joan of Navarre, 91, 119
+
+Jocelin family, 200
+
+Jocelyn, Sir R., 56
+
+John, 125
+  ---- "Gilpin," 217
+  ---- of France, 119
+  ---- of Gaunt, 118
+
+Johnson, Dr., 40, 222
+
+Jones, Inigo, 140
+
+Joyce, Cornet, 32
+
+Julian the Apostate, 36
+
+
+K
+
+Katharine Tudor, 103, 119, 120    {Katherine in text}
+
+Kemp, Bishop, 103
+
+Ken, Bishop, 41, 73
+
+Kent family (brass), 56
+
+Kesteven, W. (brass), 150
+
+Kit Cat Club, 69
+
+Kneller, 69, 111, 143, 161, 221
+
+Knighton, Sir G., 68
+
+Knolles family (brass), 150
+
+Kybeworth, Thos., 134    {Bybsworth in text}
+
+
+L
+
+Lacon, Edward and Joanna, 229
+
+Lamb, Chas., 28, 40, 49, 101, 146, 147, 227
+  ---- Mary, 146
+  ---- Sir M., 114
+
+Lambard (brass), 124
+
+Langley, W. (brass), 81
+
+Lanvalei family, 213
+
+Lawes, Sir J. B., 108
+
+Lee family, 209
+  ---- Nathaniel, 40
+  ---- Sir Rich., 185
+  ---- ---- W. de la, 46
+
+Lely, 111, 143, 220, 221
+
+Leoni (architect), 169
+
+Leukenor (?), Thos., 224
+
+Leventhorpe family (brasses), 200
+
+Lewin, Earl, 116
+
+Lightfoot (Hebraist), 41
+  ---- J. (brass), 152
+
+Limesy, Ralph, 119, 162
+
+Long, Alderman (brass), 49
+
+Louis XI., 66
+  ---- (Dauphin), 118
+  ---- XVIII., 173
+
+Louthe family (brasses), 121, 207
+
+Loyd, W. J., 142
+
+Lucas, James, 205
+
+Luini, 54
+
+Lushington family, 55
+
+Lyde, Sir L., 57
+
+Lytton, Bulwer, 40, 140
+  ---- family, 139, 140, 141, 144
+  ---- Lord, 42
+
+
+M
+
+Macaulay, Lord, 40, 55, 171
+
+Magnaville, G. de, 100, 149
+  ---- Sir Hugh de, 149
+
+"Maid of the Mill," 165
+
+Makery, Thos., 147
+
+Manning, Cardinal, 209
+
+Margaret of Anjou, 119, 138, 196
+  ---- Countess, 217
+
+Marjoribanks, Edward, 83
+
+Martin, Mr. T. H., 12
+
+Mary (March. Salisbury), 112
+  ---- Tudor, 56, 108, 110, 137, 202
+
+Mattok (brasses), 127
+
+Matthew of  Westminster (quoted) 76
+  ---- Paris (quoted), 40, 158, 166, 179, 186, 192
+
+Maundeville, Sir J., 40
+
+Maurice, Bishop, 74, 228
+
+Mawley, Edward, 12
+
+May, Hugh, 220
+
+Mayne family (brasses), 75
+
+Meetkerke, Sir A., 174
+
+Melbourne, Lord, 42, 114
+
+Miles, General, 85
+
+Miller, Geo. (brass), 219
+
+"Moll Davis," 221
+
+Monk, General, 216
+
+Monmouth (see Fitzroy)
+
+Montacute, 67
+  ---- family, 201
+
+More, Sir Thos., 40, 151
+
+Moreton, Earl, 116
+
+Morison family, 219, 220
+
+Morris, Dr. J., 93
+
+Moss, James (brass), 219
+
+Murillo, 94
+
+Myddleton, Sir Hugh, 10, 50    {Myddelton in text}
+
+
+N
+
+Needham family, 232
+
+Nevil, Robt. and Elizabeth, 46
+
+Nevill, Archbishop, 169
+  ---- Sir Robt., 147
+  ---- Thos., 56
+
+Neville, Sir Thos., 231
+
+Newce family (brasses), 104
+
+Newmarch, Isabel, 120
+
+Newport, Edward, 78
+  ---- Robt. (brass), 97
+
+Nicholson, Dr. J., 31, 192
+
+Nodes family (brasses), 202
+
+Nollekens (sculptor), 158, 208
+
+Norden, J. (quoted), 11, 102, 116, 117, 134
+
+
+O
+
+Odo, Bishop, 165
+
+Offa of Mercia, 116, 122, 158, 168, 178, 186
+
+Ogard, Andrew, 175
+
+Oldhall, Sir J., 132
+
+Oudeby, John (brass), 95
+
+Overbury (brass), 144
+
+Owen, John, 65
+  ---- Tudor, 103
+
+
+P
+
+Paine (architect), 114
+
+Palmerston, Lord, 42
+
+Parker, Dr., 12
+  ---- family (brass), 166
+
+Parr family, 58
+
+Pecok, John and "Maud" (brass), 183
+  ---- Rich. (brass), 167
+
+Peletot, Sir P. (brass), 221
+
+Pemberton, Roger (brass), 181
+
+Penn, William, 41, 87, 168
+
+Penrice, Sir H., 158
+
+Pepys, Sir Lucas, 209
+  ---- Samuel, 26, 65, 164, 217
+
+Percy, Henry, 195
+
+Peri, 162
+
+Perient, J. (brass), 91
+  ---- J., junr. (brass), 92
+
+Peter de Valoignes, 118, 125
+  ---- the Great, 111
+  ---- "Wild Boy," 156
+
+Piers Gaveston, 41, 136
+
+"Piers Shonkes," 78
+
+Pietro Cavalini, 214
+
+Piozzi, Mrs., 158
+
+Pitman, Dr., 148
+
+Pitt, William, 184
+
+Plowden, W. C. M., 68
+
+Plumbe, M. (brass), 231
+
+Plumer, Col. J., 101
+  ---- family, 100
+  ---- William, 101
+
+Pope (quoted), 171
+  ---- Sir T., 109
+
+Portland, Earl, 216
+
+Poyidres, R. (brass), 134    {Poydres in text}
+
+Poynard family (brass), 61
+
+Prescott, Sir G. W., 215
+
+Prest, Johannes, 120
+
+Priestley, Wm., 94    {Priestly in text}
+
+Prior, Matt. (quoted), 128
+
+Pryor, A. Reginald, 15
+  ---- Charity, 60
+
+Pulter family, 89, (brasses) 127
+
+Pygott, T. (brass), 207
+
+Pyke, W. (brass), 85
+
+Pym family, 166
+
+Pyrry family (brasses), 216
+
+
+R
+
+Radcliffe, F. A. D., 125
+
+Randolph, Thos., 103
+
+Ranelagh, Lady, 111, 120
+
+Ransom, W., 25
+
+Raphael, 160
+
+Raven, J. (brass), 72
+
+Ravenscroft family, 65
+
+Rawdon, Sir M., 129
+
+Raymond, Lord Justice, 46
+
+Read(e) family, 113
+
+Reay, Martha, 93
+
+Reed, Isaac, 50
+
+Rembrandt, 161
+
+Revett (architect), 57
+
+Reynes, Elizabeth, 94
+
+Reynolds, Sir J., 111, 112, 220
+
+Rhodes, Cecil, 74
+
+Richard II., 91, 136, 137, 183
+  ---- Duke of York, 195
+  ---- Earl of Cambridge, 138
+
+Richmond, Countess, 217
+
+Ridley, Bishop, 41, 132, 168
+
+Robert, W. (brass), 92
+  ---- de Olgi, 224
+  ---- ---- Sigillo, 46
+  ---- Earl of Ewe, 210
+
+Robins (brass), 183
+
+Robinson, Mrs., 59
+
+Roe, 60
+
+Roesia, Dame, 172
+
+Roger of Wendover, 37
+  ---- the Monk, 148, 156
+
+Romanelli (sculptor), 142
+
+"Rosamund Gray," 227
+
+Rothschild family, 42, 210
+
+Roubeliac (sculptor), 121
+
+Rous, T. B., 170
+
+Rubens, 54, 126, 221
+
+Rumbold, "Hannibal," 175, 176
+
+Russell family, 86, 176, 219
+
+Ryder, H. C. D., 133
+
+Rysbrack (sculptor), 61, 208
+
+
+S
+
+Sabine, Sir J., 207
+
+Sadleir family, 202
+  ---- Sir Ralph, 42, 202, 203
+
+Salisbury family, 42, 94, 108, 110, 111, 113
+
+Salmon, Nat., 31, 224, 228
+
+Salusbury family, 158
+
+Salvator Rosa, 160
+
+Samwell family (brass), 158
+
+Sandwich, Earl of, 93
+
+Saraye, W. (brass), 204
+
+Saunders, James, 20, 21
+  ---- Thos., 95
+
+Saxony, Duke of, 122
+
+Say, Sir W., 79
+
+Sayer, John, 72, 73
+
+Scales family, 172
+
+Scott, John, 40, 50
+  ---- Sir Gilbert, 82, 96, 143, 180, 182, 191, 192
+  ---- Sir W., 77
+
+Seabrooke family, 107
+
+Seddon, J. P., 59
+
+Selina, Countess, 86, 227
+
+Sexi the Dane, 123
+
+Shaw, Mr. Norman, 76
+
+Sherlock, Bishop, 41
+
+Shrimpton, Robt., 194
+
+Sidney, Algernon, 176
+
+Sigar the Hermit, 156
+
+Skelton, John, 40
+
+Smith, Abel, 222
+
+Smith-Bosanquet, Major G. R. B., 80
+  ---- W. G., 33, 155
+
+Somer (brass), 133
+
+Somers, Lord, 41, 150, 151
+
+Southwell, Sir Robt., 231
+
+Spencer, Sir R., 158
+
+Sperehawke, J. (brass), 127
+
+Spycere, Eliz., 74
+
+Stables, Lt.-Col., 130
+
+Stapleford, H. and D., 197
+
+Stephen, 210
+
+Stern, Mrs., 63
+
+Stigand, Archbishop, 56
+
+St. Legier family, 158
+
+Stone, Nich., 219
+
+Stow, John (quoted), 196
+
+Strathmore, Lord, 197
+
+Stratton, John, 73
+
+Strong, Edward, 182
+
+Stuart, Lady A., 63
+
+Stukeley, Dr., 228
+
+Styles, B. H., 169, 170
+
+Sudley, Lord, 195
+
+
+T
+
+Taberam, W. (brass), 172
+
+Tacitus (quoted), 31, 213
+
+Tankerville, G., 179
+
+Taverner family, 121
+
+Thomson, James, 63
+
+Thornbury family, 153
+  ---- Sir John, 83, 153
+
+Thornhill, Sir James, 170
+
+Thrale, Mrs., 158
+
+Thurtell, 93
+
+Tillotson, Archbishop, 41
+
+Tinworth, 70
+
+Titian, 54
+
+Titus, Silas, 83
+
+Tonson, 69    {Not found in text}
+
+Tooke family, 94
+  ---- Wm. (brass), 94
+
+Torrington, Margaret, 72
+  ---- Rich., 72
+
+Townsend, Chas., 120
+
+Tremouille, Charlotte, 221
+
+Trigg, Henry, 205
+
+Turenne, 161
+
+Tykering, Rich., 64
+
+Tymms (quoted), 24
+
+
+U
+
+Usher, Archbishop, 104
+
+
+V
+
+Valpy family, 228
+
+Vandyck, 111, 143
+
+Van Somer, 111, 143, 161
+
+Verulam, Earl, 43
+
+Vere, Sir R., 196
+
+Veronese, 160
+
+Villiers family, 143, 161, 184
+
+Vynter, John (brass), 87
+
+
+W
+
+Walchelin, Bishop, 89
+
+Walpole, Horace, 219
+
+Walton, Izaak, 40, 128
+
+Ward, Dr. Seth, 55, 81
+  ---- Mrs. H., 47
+
+Waren, Rich. (brass), 105
+
+Warham, Bishop, 41
+
+Warner, W., 50
+
+Warwick, "Kingmaker," 66, 67, 195, 196
+
+Watson, H. C., 15
+
+Watts, Isaac, 41
+
+Weare, William, 93
+
+Wentworth, Thos., 184
+
+Whitefield, Geo., 127
+
+Whithred, King, 73
+
+Whittingham, Sir R., 48
+
+Wilkie, 111
+
+Willet, Dr. A. (brass), 61
+
+William I., 24, 31, 74, 85, 102, 116, 118, 125, 165, 210, 224, 231
+  ---- III., 111
+  ---- de Cantilupe, 125
+  ---- Earl of Ewe, 102, 125
+  ---- Earl of Salisbury, 119
+  ---- of Malmesbury, 110, 117, 186
+
+Willis, Thos., 119
+
+Wilshere family, 223
+
+Wincelfled, 45, 166
+
+Wodehouse, R. (brass), 129
+
+Wolsey, Cardinal, 41, 86, 169, 232
+
+Wolvey, Thos. (brass), 183
+
+Wortham, Hale, 12
+
+Wren, Sir C, 210
+
+Wright, John (brass), 87
+
+Wyatt (architect), 53, 98, 200, 220
+
+Wykins, John, 86
+
+Wyndham, Mrs. E. (brass), 182
+
+Wynne, 60
+
+Wyrley, Thos. (brass), 143
+
+
+Y
+
+Yarrell, Wm., 69
+
+Young, Edward, 40, 222
+  ---- Robert, 148
+
+
+Z
+
+Zucchero, 110, 112, 143
+
+PRINTED  IN  GREAT  BRITAIN  BY
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+Monmouthshire
+Norfolk
+Normandy
+Northamptonshire
+Northumberland
+North Wales
+Nottinghamshire
+Oxford and Colleges
+Oxfordshire
+Rome
+St Paul's Cathedral
+Shakespeare's Country
+Shropshire
+Sicily
+Snowdonia
+Somerset
+South Wales
+Staffordshire
+Suffolk
+Surrey
+Sussex
+Temple
+Warwickshire
+Westminster Abbey
+Wiltshire
+Worcestershire
+Yorkshire East Riding
+Yorkshire North Riding
+Yorkshire West Riding
+York (_in preparation_)
+
+METHUEN & CO. LTD
+36 ESSEX STREET LONDON W.C.2
+
+
+
+
+THE LITTLE GUIDES
+
+
+The main features of these books are (1) a handy and charming form, (2)
+numerous illustrations from photographs and by well-known artists, (3)
+good plans and maps, (4) an adequate but compact presentation of
+everything that is interesting in the natural features, history,
+archaeology, and architecture of the town or district treated.
+
+In those volumes which treat of counties, there is first a general
+description of the country--its situation, physical features, flora and
+fauna, climate, inhabitants, industries, history and archaeology. Then
+follows an account of the chief towns and places of interest in
+alphabetical order.
+
+The books are not guides in the ordinary sense of the word. They do not
+give the usual routes for expeditions, information about hotels, etc.,
+but they contain information which may be sufficient for the ordinary
+tourist of literary tastes, and they form not only practical handbooks,
+but delightful gift books.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Bedfordshire and Huntingdonshire.= By HERBERT W. MACKLIN, M.A.
+With 24 Illustrations from Photographs and 2 Maps. 4s. net.
+
+=Berkshire.= By F. G. BRABANT. With 24 Illustrations by E. H.
+New and from Photographs, and 3 Maps and 3 Plans. _Second Edition._ 4s.
+net.
+
+=Buckinghamshire.= By E. S. ROSCOE. With 28 Illustrations by F.
+D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. _Third Edition._
+4s. net.
+
+=Cambridgeshire.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 25
+Illustrations from Photographs, 3 Maps and a Plan. 4s. net.
+
+=Cheshire.= By WALTER M. GALLICHAN. With 48 Illustrations by
+Elizabeth Hartley and from Photographs, 2 Maps and a Plan. _Second
+Edition._ 5s. net.
+
+=Cornwall.= By ARTHUR L. SALMON. With 26 Illustrations by B. C.
+Boulter and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Fourth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Cumberland and Westmoreland.= By DANIEL SCOTT. With 24
+Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps. 6s. net.
+
+=Derbyshire.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 32
+Illustrations by J. Charles Wall and from Photographs, and 2 Maps.
+_Third Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Devon.= By S. BARING-GOULD, M.A. With 32 Illustrations and 2
+Maps. _Sixth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Dorset.= By FRANK R. HEATH. With 33 Illustrations from
+Photographs, 3 Maps and a Plan. _Sixth Edition._ 5s. 6d. net.
+
+=Durham.= By J. E. HODGKIN. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs, 3 Maps and 4 Plans. 4s. net.
+
+=Essex.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 32 Illustrations
+from Photographs, and 2 Maps _Third Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Gloucestershire.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 28
+Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps and 4 Plans. _Third Edition._
+4s. net.
+
+=Hampshire.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 28
+Illustrations by M. E. Purser and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans.
+_Fourth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Herefordshire.= By G. W. WADE, D.D, and J. H. WADE,
+M.A. With 26 Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. 4s.
+net.
+
+=Hertfordshire.= By HERBERT W. TOMPKINS, F.R.Hist.S. With 26
+Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Second
+Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Kent.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 24 Illustrations
+by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Plans and 2 Maps. _Third
+Edition, Revised._ 4s. net.
+
+=Kerry.= By C. P. CRANE, D.S.O. With 36 Illustrations from
+Photographs and 2 Maps. _Second Edition, Revised._ 4s. net.
+
+=Lancashire.= By F. H. CHEETHAM, F.S.A. With 24 Illustrations
+and 2 Maps and 2 Plans. 6s. net.
+
+=Leicestershire and Rutland.= By A. HARVEY and V. B.
+CROWTHER-BEYNON, M.A., F.S.A. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs, and 2 Maps. 4s. net.
+
+=Lincolnshire.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 28
+Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. 4s. net.
+
+=Middlesex.= By JOHN B. FIRTH. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs and Old Prints, 3 Maps and a Plan. 4s. net.
+
+=Monmouthshire.= By G. W. WADE, D.D., and J. H. WADE,
+M.A. With 32 Illustrations from Photographs, 4 Maps and 4 Plans. 4s.
+net.
+
+=Norfolk.= By WILLIAM A. DUTT. With 30 Illustrations by B. C.
+Boulter and from Photographs, and 3 Maps. _Fifth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Northamptonshire.= By WAKELING DRY. With 40 Illustrations from
+Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Third Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Northumberland.= By JOSEPH E. MORRIS, B.A. With 32
+Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 4 Plans. 5s. net.
+
+=Nottinghamshire.= By EVERARD L. GUILFORD, M.A. With 30
+Illustrations and 3 Maps. 4s. net.
+
+=Oxfordshire.= By F. G. BRABANT, M.A. With 28 Illustrations by
+Edmund H. New and from Photographs, 3 Maps and a Plan. _Third Edition._
+4s. net.
+
+=Shropshire.= By J. E. AUDEN, M.A., F.R.Hist.S. With 28
+Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Third Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Somerset.= By G. W. WADE, D.D., and J. H. WADE, M.A.
+With 32 Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. _Sixth
+Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Staffordshire.= By CHARLES MASEFIELD. With 32 Illustrations
+from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. _Second Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Suffolk.= By WILLIAM A. DUTT. With 28 Illustrations by J.
+Wylie, Frank Southgate, R.B.A., and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Third
+Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Surrey.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 29
+Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Fourth
+Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Sussex.= By F. G. BRABANT, M.A. With 24 Illustrations by
+Edmund H. New and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 6 Plans. _Sixth Edition._
+4s. net.
+
+=Wales, North.= By ALFRED T. STORY. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Second Edition._ 6s. net.
+
+=Wales, South.= By G. W. WADE, D.D., and J. H. WADE,
+M.A. With 32 Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps. 4s. net.
+
+=Warwickshire.= By J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. With 24
+Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps and 4 Plans. 4s. net.
+
+=Wight, Isle Of.= By GEORGE CLINCH, F.S.A.Scot., F.G.S. With
+28 Illustrations by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 3
+Plans. _Second Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Wiltshire.= By FRANK R. HEATH. With 32 Illustrations from
+Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. _Fourth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Worcestershire.= By F. T. S. HOUGHTON. With 26 Illustrations,
+2 Maps and 2 Plans, 6s. net.
+
+=York.= By JOSEPH E. MORRIS, B.A. With 8 Illustrations and 15
+Plans (_in preparation_).
+
+=Yorkshire, East Riding of.= By JOSEPH E. MORRIS, B.A. With 27
+Illustrations by R. J. S. Bertram and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2
+Plans. _Second Edition._ 5s. net.
+
+=Yorkshire, North Riding of.= By JOSEPH E. MORRIS, B.A. With 26
+Illustrations by R. J. S. Bertram and from Photographs, 3 Maps and 7
+Plans. _Second Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Yorkshire, West Riding of.= By JOSEPH E. MORRIS, B.A. With 26
+Illustrations, 2 Maps and 7 Plans. _Second Edition._ 7s. 6d. net.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cambridge and Its Colleges.= By A. HAMILTON THOMPSON, M.A.
+With 23 Illustrations by Edmund H. New, and a Map. _Fifth Edition._ 4s.
+net.
+
+=Channel Islands, The.= By ETHEL E. BICKNELL. With 32
+Illustrations and 5 Maps. 4s. net.
+
+=English Lakes, The.= By F. G. BRABANT, M.A. With 20
+Illustrations by Edmund H. New, 11 Maps and a Plan. _Second Edition._
+6s. net.
+
+=London.= By GEORGE CLINCH, F.S.A.Scot., F.G.S. With 32
+Illustrations from Photographs and old Engravings, and a Map. 4s. net.
+
+=Malvern Country, The.= By Sir BERTRAM C. A. WINDLE, D.Sc.,
+F.R.S., F.S.A. With 23 Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from
+Photographs, and a Plan. _Third Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Oxford and its Colleges.= By J. WELLS, M.A. With 27
+Illustrations by Edmund H. New, 6 Plans and a Map. _Twelfth Edition._
+4s. net.
+
+=St Paul's Cathedral.= By GEORGE CLINCH, F.S.A.Scot., F.G.S.
+With 30 Illustrations by B. Alcock and from Old Prints, and 3 Plans. 4s.
+net.
+
+=Shakespeare's Country.= By Sir BERTRAM C. A. WINDLE, D.Sc.,
+F.R.S., F.S.A. With 25 Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from
+Photographs, a Map and a Plan. _Sixth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Snowdonia.= By F. G. BRABANT, M.A. With 24 Illustrations from
+Photographs, 3 Maps and 3 Plans. 6s. net.
+
+=Temple, The.= By HUGH H. L. BELLOT, MA., D.C.L. With 40
+Illustrations by Jenny Wylie and from Photographs, and a Plan. _Second
+Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Westminster Abbey.= By G. E. TROUTBECK. With 41 Illustrations
+by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, and a Plan. _Second Edition._ 4s.
+net.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+FOREIGN
+
+=Brittany.= By S. BARING-GOULD, M.A. With 28 Illustrations by
+Jenny Wylie and from Photographs, and 3 Maps. _Fourth Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+=Normandy.= By CYRIL SCUDAMORE, M.A. With 40 Illustrations from
+Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Second Edition, Revised._ 4s. net.
+
+=Rome.= By C. G. ELLABY. With 38 Illustrations by B. C. Boulter
+and from Photographs, and a Map. 4s. net.
+
+=Sicily.= By F. HAMILTON JACKSON. With 34 Illustrations by the
+Author and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. _Second Edition._ 4s. net.
+
+
+METHUEN & CO. LTD, 36 ESSEX ST., LONDON, W.C.2
+
+
+{Transcriber's notes
+
+[a] "protusion" changed to "protrusion"
+
+[b] "protusion" changed to "protrusion"
+
+[c] "filixfoemina" changed to "filixfaemina"
+
+[d] "Guillemot" changed to "guillemot";
+    "Locustella noevia" changed to "Locustella naevia"
+
+[e] "Icene" changed to "Iceni"
+
+[f] "Wincelfied" changed to "Wincelfled"
+
+[g] "Aldeberie" unclear in original but checked with other sources
+
+[h] "in" changed to "is"
+
+[i] "Wymondly" changed to "Wymondley"
+
+[j] "From" changed to "from"
+
+[k] "L.&S.W.R." changed to "L.&N.W.R."
+
+[l] "Julian's" changed to "Julians"
+
+[m] "projectin gentrance" changed to "projecting entrance"
+
+[n] "Pishobury" changed to "Pishiobury"
+
+[o] "Blakemoor" changed to "Blakesmoor"
+
+The following place names have inconsistent spellings:
+Abbot's Langley, Abbots Langley
+Gubblecote, Gubblecot
+Luffenhall, Lufen Hall
+Piccott's End, Piccotts End
+(St.) Ippollitts, Ippollit's, Ippollits
+
+Some of the index entries do not correspond exactly to the body of the
+text. The differences are as follows:
+
+Index                      Text
+
+Anorbul                    Annabull
+Brakespear                 Breakspeare
+Cassivelaunus              Cassivellaunus
+Edelwine                   Egelwine
+Hollinshed                 Hollinshead
+Glamis                     Not found in text
+Humphrey, Duke of Gloster  Gloucester
+Harvey, Sir Garrett        Garratt
+Katharine Tudor            Katherine
+Kybeworth                  Bybsworth
+Myddleton, Sir Hugh        Myddelton
+Poyidres                   Poydres
+Priestley                  Priestly
+Tonson                     Not found in text
+
+}
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hertfordshire, by Herbert W Tompkins
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HERTFORDSHIRE ***
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