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diff --git a/18252.txt b/18252.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8c69f38 --- /dev/null +++ b/18252.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8081 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hertfordshire, by Herbert W Tompkins + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hertfordshire + +Author: Herbert W Tompkins + +Illustrator: Edmund H. New + +Release Date: April 25, 2006 [EBook #18252] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HERTFORDSHIRE *** + + + + +Produced by Louise Pryor and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + +{Transcriber's note: Some misprints have been corrected, as noted at the +end of the e-text. All material added by the transcriber is between +braces {}. Text in bold in the original is surrounded by =equals signs=.} + + + + + +HERTFORDSHIRE + + + + + +[Illustration: ST. ALBAN'S ABBEY CHURCH] + + + + + HERTFORDSHIRE + + _By_ + HERBERT W. TOMPKINS + F.R.Hist.S. + + _With Illustrations by_ + EDMUND H. NEW + AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS + AND TWO MAPS + + "Hearty, homely, loving Hertfordshire" + --CHARLES LAMB + + LONDON + METHUEN & CO. LTD. + _36 Essex St. Strand_ + + _Second Edition, Revised_ + + + + + _First Published March 1903_ + _Second Edition, Revised 1922_ + + + + + TO + MY WIFE + + + + +PREFACE + + +In the following pages I have endeavoured to give a brief description of +Hertfordshire on the lines of Mr. F. G. Brabant's book in this series. +The general features of the county are briefly described in the +Introduction, in sections approximately corresponding to the sections of +the volume on Sussex. I have thought it wise, however, to compress the +Introduction within the briefest limits, in order that, in the +Gazetteer, I might have space for more adequate treatment than would +otherwise have been possible. + +I have visited a large proportion of the towns, villages and hamlets of +Hertfordshire, and have, so far as possible, written from personal +observation. + +I desire to thank Mr. John Hopkinson, F.L.S., F.G.S., etc., for his +kindness in writing the sections on _Climate_ and _Botany_; Mr. A. E. +Gibbs, F.L.S., F.R.H.S., for his permission to make use of several +miscellanies from his pen, and Mr. Alfred Bentley of New Barnet for his +courtesy in placing some photographs from his collection at the disposal +of Mr. New. + + VERULAM, + SOUTHEND-ON-SEA, + 1903. + + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + +INTRODUCTION 1 + + I SITUATION, EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES 1 + + II PHYSICAL FEATURES 2 + + III CLIMATE 11 + + IV FLORA AND FAUNA 15 + + V POPULATION 23 + + VI COMMUNICATIONS 25 + + VII INDUSTRIES 28 + + VIII HISTORY 31 + + IX ANTIQUITIES 33 + + X CELEBRATED MEN 39 + +DESCRIPTION OF PLACES IN HERTFORDSHIRE ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY 45 + +INDEX TO PERSONS 235 + + + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS + + +THE RAILWAYS OF HERTFORDSHIRE _Front Cover_ + +THE ABBEY CHURCH, ST. ALBANS _Frontispiece_ + (_From a Photograph by the Graphotone Co., Enfield_) + +LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS _To face page_ 2 + (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_) + +ON THE RIVER COLNE 8 + (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_) + +GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING--THE HIGHEST WATER LEVEL IN ENGLAND 10 + (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_) + +THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY 47 + (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_) + +ASHRIDGE HOUSE 53 + (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_) + +OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK 59 + (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_) + +CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD 72 + (_From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead_) + +BISHOP'S STORTFORD 74 + (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_) + +BROXBOURNE 79 + +CHORLEY WOOD COMMON 87 + (_From a Photo. by the London Stereoscopic & Photo. Co._) + +HATFIELD HOUSE 109 + (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_) + +KING JAMES'S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE 111 + (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_) + +HEMEL HEMPSTEAD 115 + +HERTFORD 117 + +HITCHIN 125 + (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_) + +KNEBWORTH PARK 139 + +OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END 146 + (_From a Photograph by the Author_) + +RICKMANSWORTH 170 + (_From a Photo. by the London Stereoscopic & Photo. Co._) + +THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON 172 + (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_) + +THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBANS--THE OLDEST INN IN ENGLAND 178 + (_From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee_) + +BACON'S MONUMENT 183 + (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_) + +RUINS OF BACON'S HOUSE 184 + (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_) + +ST. ALBAN'S SHRINE 192 + (_From a Photograph by the Graphotone Co., Enfield_) + +STEVENAGE CHURCH 204 + (_From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate_) + +WALTHAM CROSS 214 + +MAP OF HERTFORDSHIRE 233 + + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +I. SITUATION, EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES + +Hertfordshire, or Herts, is a county in the S.E. of England. On the S. +it is bounded by Middlesex; on the S.W. by Buckinghamshire; on the N.W. +by Bedfordshire; on the N. by Cambridgeshire; on the E. by Essex. Its +extreme measurement from due E. to W., say from Little Hyde Hall to +Puttenham, is about 38 miles; from N. to S., from Mobb's Hole at the top +of Ashwell Common to a point just S. of Totteridge Green, about 30 +miles; but a longer line, 36 miles in length, may be drawn from Mobb's +Hole to Troy Farm in the S.W. Its boundaries are very irregular; the +neighbourhood of Long Marston is almost surrounded by Buckinghamshire +and Bedfordshire, that of Hinxworth by Cambridgeshire and Bedfordshire, +and that of Barnet by Middlesex. Its extreme points are:-- + + N. Lat. 52 deg. 5' (N.) + E. Long. 0 deg. 13' (E.) + W. Long. 0 deg. 45' (W.) + S. Lat. 51 deg. 36' (N.) + +Its area is 404,523 acres or 632 square miles. It is one of the +smallest counties in England, the still smaller counties being Rutland, +Middlesex, Huntingdon, Bedford and Monmouth. Hertfordshire is one of the +six home counties. + +[Illustration: LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS] + + +II. PHYSICAL FEATURES + +Hertfordshire, being an inland county, is naturally devoid of many +charms to be found in those counties which have a sea-coast. But it has +beauties of its own, being particularly varied and undulating. Its +scenery is pleasantly diversified by many woods, which however are +mostly of but small extent, by swelling cornfields, and by several small +and winding streams. There is much rich loam in the many little +valley-bottoms traversed by these streams, and other loams of inferior +quality are found in abundance on the higher levels of the arable +districts. The soil in many parts, owing to the preponderance of chalk, +is specially adapted to the cultivation of wheat. Its trees have +elicited the admiration of many, particularly its oaks and elms, of +which colossal specimens are found here and there throughout the county, +and its beeches, of which the beautiful woods on the Chiltern slopes and +elsewhere in the W. are largely composed. The hornbeam is almost +restricted to Essex and Hertfordshire. The woods of Hertfordshire form +indeed its sweetest attraction in the eyes of many. The districts of +Rickmansworth, Radlett, Wheathampstead and Breachwood Green, among +others, are dotted with coppices of ideal loveliness, and larger +woods such as Batch Wood near St. Albans and Bricket Wood near Watford +are carpeted with flowers in their season, interspersed with glades, and +haunted by jays and doves, by ringlets and brimstones. Hazel woods +abound, and parties of village children busily "a-nutting" in the autumn +are one of the commonest sights of the county. It abounds, too, in quiet +park-like spots which are the delight of artists, and contains many +villages and hamlets picturesquely situated upon slopes and embowered +among trees. A large proportion of the birds known to English observers +are found in the county either regularly or as chance visitors, and will +be treated more fully in a separate section. The many narrow, winding, +flower-scented lanes are one of the chief beauties of Hertfordshire. The +eastern part of the county, though, on the whole, less charming to the +eye than the rest, contains some fine manor houses and interesting old +parish churches. Its most beautiful part is unquestionably the W., near +the Buckinghamshire border; its greatest historic interest centres +around St. Albans, with its wonderful old abbey church now largely +restored; Berkhampstead, Hertford, Hatfield and Hitchin. The county +contains rather less than the average of waste or common land; the +stretches of heath used for grazing purposes only aggregating 1,200 +acres. + +Among the finest panoramic views may be mentioned:-- + +(1) From the hill near Boxmoor Station. + +(2) From the village of Wigginton, looking S. + +(3) From the high-road between Graveley and Baldock. + +(4) From Windmill Hill, Hitchin, looking W. + +There were medicinal waters at Barnet, Northaw, Hemel Hempstead and +Welwyn, but these are now disused. Many other details touching +physiographical characteristics are mentioned as occasion arises in the +Alphabetical Gazetteer which follows this Introduction. + +The Geology of Hertfordshire must be here summarised in few words. The +predominant formations are the Cretaceous and the Tertiary. + +CRETACEOUS.--Ignoring the Gault, which barely touches the county, this +formation consists chiefly of Chalk-marl, Lower, Middle and Upper Chalk. +A series of Chalk Downs, an extension of the Chiltern Hills, stretches, +roughly speaking, from Tring to Royston, forming by far the most +prominent natural feature of Hertfordshire. The oldest rocks are in the +N.W. + +_The Chalk Marl_ is superimposed upon the Gault and Upper Greensand +beds, which are confined to the western portion of the county. Its upper +layer passes into a sandy limestone, known as Totternhoe stone, which +has furnished materials for many churches in the shire. Ashwell, Pirton +and Tring may be named as neighbourhoods where this stratum may be +traced. + +_The Lower Chalk_ is devoid of flints, and rests, in somewhat steeply +sloping beds, upon the Totternhoe stone. It forms the western slopes of +the Dunstable Downs, and of the Chiltern Hills. It is fossiliferous, one +of the commonest of its shells being the Terebratula. + +_The Middle Chalk_, of resonant hardness, is laminated, and has at its +base the Melbourn Rock and at its summit the Chalk Rock. Nodules of +flint, greenish in appearance, and (rarely) arranged in layers, occur +sparsely in the Middle Chalk, which may be traced in the neighbourhood +of Boxmoor, Berkhampstead and Baldock, and also in a few other +districts. + +_The Upper Chalk._--Although, as has been stated, the configuration of +Hertfordshire is very undulating, we are able to discern a general trend +in certain districts. Thus, there is a gradual slope to the S. from the +N.W. and central hills, a slope which comprises the larger part of the +county. This slope is formed of the Upper Chalk, a formation abounding +in layers of black flints. The chalk is whiter than that of the lower +beds, and very much softer. Fossil sponges, sea-urchins, etc., are +abundant in this formation. + +TERTIARY.--Many of the chalk hills of Hertfordshire are strewn with +outlying more recent deposits which prove that the lower Tertiary beds +were more extensive in remote ages. The beds of sand and clay, of such +frequent occurrence in the S.E. districts, contain fossils so distinct +from those of the Upper Chalk that an immense interval must have elapsed +before those Tertiary deposits were in turn laid down. + +_The Eocene Formation._--The _Thanet Beds_, of light-coloured sands, +present in some other parts of the London Basin, notably in Kent, are +wanting in Hertfordshire. There are, however, some widespread deposits +of loamy sands which may possibly be rearranged material from the Thanet +Beds. + +The lowest Eocene deposits in the county are the _Reading Beds_. These +rest directly upon the Chalk and have an average thickness of, say, 25 +feet. They may be traced E. to S.W. from the brickfields near Hertford +to Hatfield Park; thence to the kilns on Watford Heath and at Bushey; +they may also be traced from Watford to Harefield Park. These beds +contain flints, usually found close to the Chalk, and consist chiefly of +mottled clays, sands, and pebble-beds. Fossils are but rarely found. +From the Woolwich and Reading Beds come those conglomerate masses of +flint pebbles commonly called Hertfordshire _plum-pudding stone_. These +have usually a silicious matrix and were often used by the Romans and +others for making querns for corn-grinding. It is, perhaps, not +impertinent to mention here the opinion of geologists that during the +_Eocene Period_ a considerable portion of the land usually spoken of as +S.E. England was covered by the ocean. + +Resting upon the _Reading Beds_ we find that well-known stratum called +the _London Clay_, which is of bluish hue when dug at any considerable +depth. It is found in some of the same districts as the _Woolwich_ and +_Reading Beds_, and from Hertford and Watford it extends to N.E. and +S.W. respectively until it leaves Hertfordshire. Its direction may be +approximately traced by a series of hills, none of which are of any +great height. + +_The Drift._--In Hertfordshire, as elsewhere, the strata whose names are +so familiar to geologists do not form the existing _surface_ of the +ground. For the origin of this we go back to a comparatively recent +period, when disintegration was busily working upon the solid rocks, and +glaciers were moving southwards, leaving stones and much loose _debris_ +in their wake. Rivers, some of which, as in the Harpenden valley, have +long ceased to run, separated the flints from the chalk, forming a +gravel which is found in quantities at Harpenden, Wheathampstead and St. +Albans, and is, indeed, present in all valley-bottoms, even where no +river now runs. Gravel, together with clays, sand, and alluvial loams, +forms, for the most part, the actual surface of the county. + +_The Rivers_ of Hertfordshire are many, if we include several so small +as hardly to deserve the name. They are the Ash, Beane, Bulbourne, +Chess, Colne, Gade, Hiz, Ivel, Lea, Maran, Purwell, Quin, Rhee, Rib, +Stort and Ver. + +1. _The Ash_ rises near Little Hadham, and, passing the village of +Widford, joins the Lea at Stanstead. + +2. _The Beane_, rising in the parish of Cottered, runs to Walkern, where +it passes close to the church, and flows from thence past Aston and +Watton, and into the Lea at Hertford. + +3. _The Bulbourne_ rises in the parish of Tring, passes N.E. of +Berkhampstead and S.W. of Hemel Hempstead and unites with the Gade at +Two Waters. + +4. _The Chess_ enters the county from Buckinghamshire at Sarratt Mill, +and flowing past Loudwater joins the Gade at Rickmansworth. The Valley +of the Chess is one of the prettiest districts in the shire. + +[Illustration: ON THE RIVER COLNE] + +5. _The Colne_ rises near Sleap's Hyde, is crossed by the main road from +Barnet to St. Albans at London Colney, and by the main road from Edgware +to St. Albans at Colney Street. Thence it passes between Bushey Hall and +Bushey Lodge, flows through Watford to Rickmansworth where, uniting with +the Gade and Chess, it enters Middlesex near Stocker's Farm. + +6. _The Gade_ rises near Little Gaddesden, skirts Hemel Hempstead Church +on the W. side, and passing King's Langley and Hunton Bridge, flows +through Cassiobury Park and joins the Chess and Colne at Rickmansworth. + +7. _The Hiz_, rising at Well Head, S.W. of Hitchin, crosses that town, +joins the Purwell at Grove Mill and leaves the county at Cadwell. + +8. _The Ivel_ rises near Baldock, flows to Radwell Mill and shortly +afterwards enters Bedfordshire. + +9. _The Lea_ is the largest river in Hertfordshire. It rises near +Leagrave (in Bedfordshire) and flows through the county from N.W. to +S.E. Entering Hertfordshire at Hide Mill, it flows past Wheathampstead, +Hatfield, Hertford, Ware, and, leaving the county near Waltham Abbey, +enters the Thames at Blackwall. Its entire length is about 50 miles. The +waterway known as the _Lea and Stort Navigation_ is navigable to +Bishop's Stortford. + +10. _The Maran_, or _Mimram_, rises in the parish of King's Walden, +skirts Whitwell on the N., running parallel with the village street, and +passing through Welwyn and near Tewin enters the Lea at Hertingfordbury. + +11. _The Purwell_, or _Pirall_, rises in the parish of Ippollits and +passing W. of Great Wymondley runs to Purwell Mill, and joins the Hiz at +Grove Mill. + +12. _The Quin_ rises in the neighbourhood of Wyddial, and passing +Quinbury, unites with the Rib at Braughing. + +13. _The Rhee_, rising a little E. of Ashwell, has but a few miles to +flow before it enters Cambridgeshire. + +14. _The Rib_ rises at Corney Bury, flows E. of Buntingford, thence +turning W. it flows under the bridge at the _Adam and Eve_, runs to +Westmill, Standon and Thundridge, finally uniting with the Lea at +Hertford. + +15. _The Stort_ enters Hertfordshire from Essex at a point near Cannon +Wood Mill, and after passing through Bishop's Stortford forms the +extreme E. boundary of the county for some distance before quitting it +near Cheshunt. + +16. _The Ver_ rises near Flamstead, is crossed by the Dunstable Road, +N.W. of Redbourn, then recrossed by it. It then skirts St. Albans on the +S. and joins the Colne near Park Street. + +In addition to the cutting of the _Lea and Stort Navigation_ already +mentioned, there are other artificial waterways:-- + +_The Aylesbury Canal_ (a branch of the Grand Junction Canal) crosses the +extreme western neck of the county, from S. of Puttenham to S. of +Gubblecote. + +[Illustration: GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING + _The highest water level in England_] + +_The Grand Junction Canal_ is largely utilised by barges traversing the +W. of Hertfordshire. It is conspicuous at Rickmansworth, Boxmoor, and +Berkhampstead; it enters Bedfordshire near Marsworth Reservoir. + +_The New River_ was constructed by Sir Hugh Myddelton, a London +goldsmith, in 1609-13, and is largely fed by springs at Chadwell near +Hertford. Its course in Hertfordshire is mostly close to and parallel +with that of the Lea. The New River caused the financial ruin of its +projector; one of its shares is now worth a large fortune. The whole +story of this undertaking is very interesting; but as the New River was +cut in order to bring water to London that story belongs to a volume on +Middlesex. + + +III. CLIMATE + +The chief elements of climate are temperature and rainfall. A general +idea of the mean temperature and rainfall of Hertfordshire, both monthly +and annual, may be gained from an inspection of Bartholomew's _Atlas of +Meteorology_ (1899). From that work it appears that the mean annual +temperature of the county, if reduced to sea-level (that is, the +theoretical mean for its position) would be 50 deg. or a little above it, +but that the actual mean varies from 46 deg.-48 deg. on the Chiltern Hills to +48 deg.-50 deg. in the rest and much the greater part of Hertfordshire; also +that the mean annual rainfall is between 25 and 30 inches, the latter +amount only being approached towards the Chilterns. Thus altitude is +seen to have a great effect on both these elements of climate. + +Hertfordshire is hilly though not mountainous, a great extent of its +surface being considerably elevated above sea-level, with a general +south-easterly inclination; it has a dry soil; is well watered with +numerous rivers of clear water--already enumerated--chiefly derived from +springs in the Chalk; is well but not too densely wooded; and its +atmosphere is not contaminated by manufacturing towns. It thus maintains +the reputation for salubrity which it gained more than three centuries +ago, our earliest county historian, Norden, remarking on the "salutarie" +nature of the "aire". + +Observations taken at the following meteorological stations during the +twelve years 1887 to 1898 have been printed annually in the +_Transactions of the Hertfordshire Natural History Society_, and a brief +summary of some of the chief results will here be given. + +_Royston_ (London Road): lat. 52 deg. 2' 34'' N.; long. 0 deg. 1' 8'' W.; alt. +301 feet; observer, the late Hale Wortham, F.R.Met.Soc. + +_Berkhampstead_ (Rosebank): lat. 51 deg. 45' 40'' N.; long. 0 deg. 33' 30'' W.; +alt. 400 feet; observer, Edward Mawley, F.R.Met.Soc. + +_St. Albans_ (The Grange): lat. 51 deg. 45' 9'' N.; long. 0 deg. 20' 7'' W.; +alt. 380 feet; observer, John Hopkinson, Assoc.Inst.C.E. + +_Bennington_ (Bennington House): lat. 51 deg. 53' 45'' N.; long. 0 deg. 20' 7'' +W.; alt. 407 feet; observer, Rev. Dr. Parker, F.R.Met.Soc. + +_New Barnet_ (Gas Works): lat. 51 deg. 38' 5'' N.; long. 0 deg. 10' 15'' W.; +alt. 212 feet; observer, T. H. Martin, M.Inst.C.E. + +1. _Temperature._--The mean temperature of Hertfordshire, as deduced +from the above observations, is 48.3 deg.. It has varied from 47.0 deg. in 1887 +to 50.2 deg. in 1898. The mean daily range is 15.9 deg.. It was the least +(14.2 deg.) in 1888, and the greatest (18.1 deg.) in 1893. The mean temperature +of the seasons is as follows: spring 46.6 deg., summer 60.2 deg., autumn 49.2 deg., +winter 37.2 deg.. The warmest month is July, with a mean temperature of +61.0 deg.; the coldest is January, with a mean of 36.1 deg.. August is very +little colder than July. In these two months only has the temperature +never been below freezing-point (32 deg.). In December and January only has +it never exceeded 62 deg.. It increases most rapidly during the month of +May, and decreases most rapidly during September and October. + +2. _Humidity._--The relative humidity of the air, that is the amount of +moisture it contains short of complete saturation which is represented +by 100, is, at 9 A.M., 82. It has varied from 78 in 1893 to 85 +in 1888 and 1889. The air is much drier in spring and summer (78 and 75) +than it is in autumn and winter (86 and 89). There is the least amount +of moisture in the air from April to August (74 to 78), and the greatest +from November to January (90). + +3. _Cloud._--The mean amount of cloud at 9 A.M., from 0 (clear sky) to +10 (completely overcast), is 6.7. It has varied from 6.0 in 1893 to 7.4 +in 1888. Spring, summer, and autumn are about equally cloudy (6.5 to +6.6), and winter is considerably more so (7.2). The sky at 9 A.M. is +brightest in September (6.0) and most cloudy in November and January +(7.5). + +4. _Sunshine._--At Berkhampstead only have records of bright sunshine +been taken for the whole of the twelve years. Throughout the year the +sun shines brightly there for nearly four hours a day (3.9). The average +duration in spring is 5.0, in summer 5.8, in autumn 3.2, and in winter +1.6. The duration is least in December and greatest in May; the sun +shining for rather more than an hour a day in December and nearly six +hours and a half in May. An apparent discrepancy between this and the +preceding section is due to a bright day often following a cloudy +morning and _vice versa_. + +5. _Wind._--The prevailing direction of the wind, as recorded at +Berkhampstead, St. Albans and Bennington, is from S.W. (sixty-one days +in the year) to W. (sixty-two days), and the next most frequent winds +are N. to N.E. and S. (each about thirty-seven days). The least frequent +are S.E. (twenty-five days). About forty-four days in the year are +recorded as calm. + +6. _Rainfall._--Twelve years is much too short a period to give a +trustworthy mean for such a variable element of climate as rainfall, and +five stations are much too few to deduce an average from for +Hertfordshire. The average rainfall at a varying number of stations for +the sixty years 1840 to 1899 (from one station in the first decade of +this period to twenty stations in the last decade) was 26.15 inches. In +the driest year (1854) 17.67 inches fell, and in the wettest (1852) +37.57 inches. Spring has 5.40 inches, summer 6.97, autumn 7.87, and +winter 5.91. The driest months are February and March, each with a mean +of 1.65 inch; April is but very little wetter, having 1.69. The wettest +month is October, with 2.96 inches, and the next is November with 2.56. +The mean number of days of rain in the year, that is of days on which at +least 0.01 inch fell, for the thirty years 1870-99, was 167. Autumn and +winter have each about six more wet days than spring and summer. The +rainfall is greatly affected by the form of the ground, the southern and +western hills attracting the rain, which chiefly comes from the S.W., so +greatly that with a mean annual fall of about 26 inches there is a +difference of 31/2 inches between that of the river-basin of the Colne on +the W. and that of the river-basin of the Lea on the E., the former +having 28 inches and the latter 241/2. The small portion of the +river-basin of the Great Ouse which is within our area has rather less +rain than the average for the county. + + +IV. FLORA AND FAUNA + +In his _Cybele Britannica_, H. C. Watson divided Britain into eighteen +botanical provinces of which the Thames and the Ouse occupy the whole of +the S.E. of England. The greater part of Hertfordshire is in the Thames +province and a small portion in the N. is in that of the Ouse. + +In Pryor's _Flora of Hertfordshire_, published by the Hertfordshire +Natural History Society in 1887, which should be referred to for full +information on the botany of the county, these botanical provinces are +again divided into districts, the Ouse into (1) Cam, (2) Ivel; and the +Thames into (3) Thame, (4) Colne, (5) Brent, (6) Lea; both the larger +provinces and the smaller districts thus being founded on the natural +divisions of a country, drainage areas or catchment basins. + +In the following brief notes a few of the rarer or more interesting +flowering plants of each district are enumerated. + +1. _The Cam._--This is the most northern district. It is almost entirely +on the Chalk and is very bare of trees. The few plants which are +restricted to it are very rare. A meadow-rue, _Thalictrum Jacquinianum_, +and the cat's foot (_Antennaria dioica_) occur only on Royston and +Therfield Heaths; _Alisma ranunculoides_ and _Potamogeton coloratus_ +only on Ashwell Common; and of the great burnet (_Poterium officinale_) +the sole record is that of a plant gathered near Ashwell in 1840. + +2. _The Ivel._--This district is S.W. of that of the Cam, and the Chalk +Downs of that district are continued through it. Its rarer plants are +_Melampyrum arvense_, which occurs only in one spot S. of Ashwell; +_Smyrnium olusatrum_, which has been found near Baldock and Pirton; and +_Silene conica_, which was found near Hitchin in 1875. The white +helleborine (_Cephalanthera pallens_), the dwarf orchis (_Orchis +ustulata_), and the musk orchis (_Herminium monorchis_) occur on the +Chalk Downs. + +3. _The Thame._--A very small tongue-like protrusion[a] of the extreme +W. of the county, in which are the Tring Reservoirs. Two of the species +confined to the district, _Typha angustifolia_ and _Potamogeton +Friesii_, are water-plants which occur only in these reservoirs or in +the canals which they supply. A rare poplar, _Populus canescens_, grows +by the Wilstone reservoir, and the man-orchis (_Aceras anthropophora_) +on terraces cut in the Chalk near Tring. + +4. _The Colne._--A large district, comprising almost the whole of the +western portion of the county. _Diplotaxis tenuefolia_, _Silene nutans_, +and _Hieracium murorum_ grow only on old walls in St. Albans. Colney +Heath is our only habitat for a very rare loosestrife, _Lythrum +hyssopyfolium_, and also for _Teesdalia nudicaulis_, while there is but +one other locality, a different one in each case, for four of its +plants, _Radiola linoides_, _Centunculus minimus_, _Cuscuta epithymum_, +and _Potamogeton acutifolius_. The pasque-flower (_Anemone pulsatilla_) +grows abundantly on the Chalk slopes near Aldbury. The rarer orchids of +the district are the bog-orchis (_Malaxis paludosa_), the narrow-leaved +helleborine (_Cephalanthera ensifolia_), and the butterfly orchis +(_Habenaria bifolia_). + +5. _The Brent._--The smallest district, a protrusion[b] of the county in +the S. entirely on the London Clay, and chiefly interesting owing to the +presence of Totteridge Green and its ponds. In these ponds grow the +great spearwort (_Ranunculus lingua_) and the sweet-flag (_Acorus +calamus_), the former, however, not being indigenous. The star-fruit +(_Damasonium stellatum_) formerly grew on Totteridge Green, and +_Chenopodium glaucum_ at Totteridge, but neither has lately been seen. + +6. _The Lea._--The largest district, comprising the whole of the E. of +the county. The London rocket (_Sisymbrium irio_) occurs only in the old +towns of Hertford and Ware; the true oxlip (_Primula elatior_) near the +head of the River Stort; a very rare broom-rape, _Orobanche caerulea_, at +Hoddesdon, where it is parasitic on the milfoil; and an almost equally +rare bedstraw, _Galium anglicum_, on an old wall of Brocket Park. A rare +trefoil, _Trifolium glomeratum_, is known only at Easneye near Ware; and +Hatfield Park is our only locality for the water-soldier (_Stratiotes +aloides_) except where it has evidently been planted. Two species, +usually of rare occurrence, _Polygonum dumetorum_ and _Apera +spica-venta_, are frequent in the district. + +The indigenous flowering plants of Hertfordshire number 893 species, 679 +being Dicotyledons and 214 Monocotyledons. If to these be added 199 +aliens, etc., the total number of species recorded is brought up to +1,092. The flora is essentially of a southern type, the northern species +being few in number. Owing to the dry soil, xerophiles largely prevail +over hygrophiles. + +_The Ferns_ and their allies the horsetails and clubmosses are not well +represented, both the soil and the air of the county being too dry for +them. Another cause for the present scarcity of ferns is the proximity +of Hertfordshire to London, for they have been uprooted and taken there +for sale in cart-loads. We have twenty-four species of ferns and +fern-allies, but not one really rare. The principal varieties are +_Scolopendrium vulgare_, var. _multifidum_; _Athyrium filixfaemina_[c], +var. _convexum_; and _Polypodium vulgare_, var. _serratum_. _Equisetum +silvaticum_ is our rarest horsetail; and our only clubmoss is +_Lycopodium clavatum_. + +_The Mosses_ are much better represented than the ferns, 175 species +having been recorded. The bog-mosses are represented by six +species--_Sphagnum intermedium_, _cuspidatum_, _subsecundum, +acutifolium_, _squarrosum_, and _cymbifolium_. _Tetraphis pellucida_ +occurs in Sherrard's Park Wood, and _Polytrichum urnigerum_ in Hitch +Wood. _Seligeria pusilla_ has been found in an old chalk-pit in Brocket +Park, and _S. paucifolia_ on chalk nodules in the Tunnel Woods near +Watford. _Campylopus pyriforme_ occurs in Berry Grove Wood, Aldenham, +and _C. flexuosus_ in Dawley's Wood, Tewin. + +Of _the Liverworts_ (_Hepaticae_) forty-four species are known to occur; +and the Stoneworts (_Characeae_) are represented by seven species--two of +_Chara_, two of _Tolypella_, and three of _Nitella_. + +_The Algae_ have been pretty fully investigated, especially the +_Diatomaceae_, of the 252 species of Algae known to occur in the county, +156 belonging to that interesting family of microscopic plants. As an +illustration of their minute size it may be mentioned that a single drop +of water from the saucer of a flower-pot at Hertford, mounted as a +microscopic slide, was found to contain 200,000 separate frustules of +_Achnanthes subsessilis_, and it was estimated that these occupied only +one twenty-fifth part of the drop. Both species of _Chlamidococcus_ (the +old genus _Protococcus_), _C. pluvialis_ and _C. nivalis_ occur; and +the pretty _Volvox globator_ has frequently been found. + +Of _the Lichens_ much less is known, only sixty-seven species having +been recorded. The most noteworthy are _Calicium melanophaeum_, found on +fir-trees in Bricket Wood; _Peltigera polydactyla_, on moss-covered +ground in Oxhey Woods, Watford; _Lecanora phlogina_, in the Tunnel +Woods, Watford; and _Pertusaria globulifera_, on trees in the same woods +and also in Bricket Wood. As woods in the vicinity of Hertford and of +Watford only have been searched for lichens, our list ought to be +largely increased by investigation in other parts of the county. + +Of _the Fungi_ our chief knowledge is derived from lists of species +collected at Fungus Forays of the Hertfordshire Natural History Society +and from records of the Mycetozoa by Mr. James Saunders. The number of +species recorded for the county is 735, of which fifty-eight are +"myxies". Of the Hymenomycetes, or mushroom-like fungi, some very +noteworthy finds have been made, nearly all at Forays of the county +society. They include two species new to Britain, _viz._, _Agaricus +(Nolania) nigripes_, found in Aldenham Woods, Watford, and _Ag. +(Hypholoma) violacea-ater_, in Gorhambury Park, St. Albans (by the +present writer). Hertfordshire has also furnished the second British +records for _Ag. (Lepiota) gliodermus_ (Broxbourne Woods), _Ag. +(Leptonia) euochrous_ (Ashridge Woods), _Ag. (Psathyrella) aratus_ +(Sherrard's Park, Welwyn), and _Paxillus Alexandri_ (Hatfield Park), +this species having first been recorded from Hatfield Park, Essex; and +the second and third British record for _Agaricus (Clytocybe) Sadleri_ +(Ashridge Park and Cassiobury Park). The very rare _Strombilomyces +strombilaceus_ has been found in Grove Park, Watford, and the still +rarer _Peziza luteo-nitens_ on the Chalk slopes between Aldbury and +Ashridge Park. Lastly it may be mentioned that Mr. Saunders added the +"myxie" _Physarum citrinum_ to the British fungus-flora from specimens +found by him at Caddington and Welwyn. + +_The Birds_ of Hertfordshire have been carefully observed, and the +appearance of rare visitors has been duly recorded. At a lecture +delivered at St. Albans in 1902, Mr. Alan F. Crossman, F.L.S., F.Z.S., +stated that 212 species had been known to visit the county, and +mentioned, _inter alia_, that the kingfisher is more numerous in +Hertfordshire than formerly, that the heron nested in the county for the +first time in 1901, and that the appearance of the bearded titmouse had +been noticed on but three occasions. During the last forty years the +following birds, among others, have been noticed as occasional +visitants: the storm-petrel (_Procellaria pelagica_), golden oriole +(_Oriolus galbula_), whooper-swan (_Cygnus musicus_), snow-bunting +(_Plectrophanes nivalis_), greater spotted woodpecker (_Picus major_), +black tern (_Hydrochelidon nigra_), great northern diver (_Colymbus +glacialis_), herring-gull (_Larus argentatus_), cormorant +(_Phalacrocorax carbo_), tufted duck (_Fuligula cristata_), hoopoe +(_Upopa epops_), crossbill (_Loxia curvirostra_), sheldrake (_Tadorna +cornuta_), Guillemot[d] (_Lornvia troile_), Pallas' sandgrouse (_Syrrhaptes +paradoxus_), rock thrush (_Monticola saxatilis_), black redstart +(_Ruticilla titys_), Dartford warbler (_Silvia undata_), grasshopper +warbler (_Locustella naevia_)[d], waxwing (_Ampelis garrulus_), twite +(_Linota flavirostris_), hen harrier (_Circus cyaneus_), buzzard (_Buteo +vulgaris_), redshank (_Totanus calidris_), greenshank (_Totanus +cunescens_) and the little auk (_Mergulus alle_). + +The lapwing is thought to be increasing in numbers; the writer +frequently observed considerable flocks during his recent rambles in the +county. Finches are perhaps as numerous in Hertfordshire as in any other +county of equal size; the large flocks of hen chaffinches that haunt the +farmyards in winter being quite a notable feature. The goldfinch, it is +to be feared, is rapidly becoming scarcer; as are also the jay, the +woodcock and other birds much more numerous a few years back. Fieldfares +and redwings visit the county in great numbers from the N. during the +winter; one morning in the winter of 1886 the writer saw many thousands +of fieldfares pass over St. Albans from the direction of Luton. The +redwing, being largely insectivorous, is often picked up dead in the +fields when the frost is unusually severe and food proportionally +difficult to obtain. + +The presence of many woods and small streams attracts a good proportion +of the smaller English migrants; the nightingale and the cuckoo are +heard almost throughout the county. Moorhens, coots and dabchicks are +abundant; the reed-sparrow is heard only in a few districts. Titmice, +great, blue and long-tailed, are well distributed. + + +V. POPULATION + +Comparatively little peculiar to the county is known of the early +inhabitants of Hertfordshire. They seem from the earliest times to have +been scattered over the county in many small groups, rather than to have +concentrated at a few centres. Singularly enough, this almost uniform +dispersion of population is still largely maintained, for, unlike so +many other counties, Hertfordshire has not within its borders a single +large town. The larger among them, _i.e._, Watford, St. Albans, Hitchin, +Hertford and Bishop's Stortford, are not collectively equal in +population to even such towns as Bolton, Halifax or Croydon. Another +feature to be noted is that, owing to the county's proximity to London, +it is now the home of persons of many nations and tongues, and only in +the smaller villages between the railroads are there left any traits of +local character or peculiarities of idiom. It is hardly necessary to say +that this conglomeration of peoples is common to all the home counties, +though mostly so, as I venture to think, in Hertfordshire and Surrey. +The Essex peasant is still strongly differentiated from his neighbours. + +Grose, writing towards the end of the eighteenth century, stated that +the population of Hertfordshire was 95,000. They must have been well +dispersed, for he tells us that the county contained at that period 949 +villages; by the word "village," however, he seems to mean any separate +community, including small hamlets. Some interesting figures are to be +found in Tymms's _Compendium of the History of the Home Circuit_. He +states that in 1821 the county contained 129,714 inhabitants, comprising +26,170 families and living in 23,687 houses. Of these families no fewer +than 13,485 were engaged in agriculture. From the same source I quote +the following figures relating to the year 1821:-- + + Houses. Inhabitants. + Hemel Hempstead 1,012 5,193 + Watford 940 4,713 + Hitchin 915 4,486 + St. Albans 735 4,472 + Cheshunt 847 4,376 + Hertford 656 4,265 + +In 1881 the population of the county was 203,069; in 1891 it had +increased by about one-eleventh to 220,162; in 1921 it was 333,236. + +In the days of William I. the whole of the possessions and estates of +Hertfordshire belonged to the King and forty-four persons who shared his +favour, amongst whom may be mentioned the Archbishop of Canterbury, the +Bishops of London, Winchester, Chester, Bayeux and Liseux, and the +Abbots of Westminster, Ely, St. Albans, Charteris and Ramsey. + +To go as far back as the Heptarchy, we find the land mostly owned by +Mercians, East Saxons and by the Kings of Kent, and thus there gradually +sprang up that "Middle English" population which for so long formed a +large proportion of the inhabitants of Hertfordshire, Middlesex and Essex. +How thoroughly such persons separated into small communities and settled +down in every part of the county may be ascertained by the many "buries" +found at a little distance from the town or village--Redbourn-bury, +Ardeley-bury, Bayford-bury, Langley-bury, Harpenden-bury, etc. + + +VI. COMMUNICATIONS + +1. _Roads._--Hertfordshire, as one of the home-counties, is crossed by +many fine roads from the N.E., E. and N.W., as they gradually converge +towards their common goal--London. Among them may be mentioned the Old +North Road, from Royston through Buntingford and Ware to Waltham Cross; +the Great North Road from Baldock through Stevenage, Welwyn and Hatfield +to Barnet; and the Dunstable Road through Market Street, Redbourn and +St. Albans, which meets the last-mentioned road at Barnet.[1] We may +contrast these roads at the present day with the rough paths infested +with robbers existing in the days when the country between Barnet and +St. Albans was little better than a continuous, tangled forest; or even +with the same roads in the days when Evelyn and Pepys frequently rode +along them--and found them exceedingly bad. The cyclist wishing to ride +northwards through Hertfordshire has comparatively stiff hills to mount +at Elstree, High Barnet, Ridge, near South Mimms, and at St. Albans. He +should also beware of the descent into Wheathampstead, of the dip +between Bushey and Watford, and of the gritty roadways in the +neighbourhood of Baldock. Most of the roads are well kept, particularly +since they have been cared for by the County Council, and the +traveller's book at the inn usually contains fewer anathemas touching +the state of the highways than in some other counties which might be +named. + +[Footnote 1: There has been much dispute as to the exact trend of the +"Great North Road". After careful inquiry I believe that the above +paragraph states the case correctly. Much misunderstanding has doubtless +arisen by confounding the "Old" with the "Great" North Road.] + +_Railways._--Few counties in England are so well served with railroad +communications; the London and North Western, Midland, Great Northern +and Great Eastern running well across its face. + +_The London and North Western_ enters the county 1/2 mile N.W. of Pinner, +and has stations on its main route at Bushey, Watford, King's Langley, +Boxmoor, Berkhampstead and Tring. It crosses the Bedfordshire border +near Ivinghoe. From Watford it has a branch to Rickmansworth; and to +Bricket Wood, Park Street and St. Albans; it has also a station at +Marston Gate, on its branch line to Aylesbury. + +_The Midland_ enters the county during its passage through the Elstree +tunnel and runs nearly due N., having stations at Elstree, Radlett, St. +Albans and Harpenden. It has also a branch with stations at Hemel +Hempstead and Redbourn. + +_The Great Northern_ main line crosses a small tongue of the county upon +which it has stations at Oakleigh Park and New Barnet. It then traverses +the Hadley Wood district of Middlesex, entering Hertfordshire again at +Warren Gate, and has stations at Hatfield, Welwyn, Knebworth, Stevenage +and Hitchin. From Hatfield it has three branches: (1) to Smallford and +St. Albans; (2) to Ayot, Wheathampstead and Harpenden; (3) to Cole +Green, Hertingfordbury and Hertford. At Hitchin it has a branch to +Baldock, Ashwell and Royston. + +_The Great Eastern_ enters the county at Waltham Cross and skirts the +whole of the S.E. quarter, running on Essex soil from near the Rye House +almost to Sawbridgeworth. It has stations in Hertfordshire at Waltham +Cross, Cheshunt, Broxbourne, Sawbridgeworth and Bishop's Stortford. It +enters Essex again near the last-named station. It has also important +branches, (1) from Broxbourne to Rye House, St. Margaret's, Ware, and +Hertford; (2) from St. Margaret's to Mardock, Widford, Hadham, Standon, +Braughing, West Mill and Buntingford. + +In addition, the Metropolitan Railway has an extension which crosses the +S.W. extremity of the county, having stations at Rickmansworth and +Chorley Wood. The Great Northern Railway has a branch from Finsbury Park +to High Barnet, with a station at Totteridge. + + +VII. INDUSTRIES + +1. _Agriculture._--Charles Lamb used no mere haphazard expression when +he wrote of Hertfordshire as "that fine corn county". Forty years ago +the county contained 339,187 acres under arable cultivation, of which +considerably more than half were utilised for corn; and the proportion +thus used is still much larger than might be supposed. (In 1897 it +amounted to about 125,000 acres.) At the same period there were about +60,000 acres under wheat alone; for this grain, of which a large white +variety is much cultivated, the county has long been famous. To this +circumstance the village of Wheathampstead is indebted for its name. +Barley and oats are also staple crops. The first Swede turnips ever +produced in England were grown on a farm near Berkhampstead. Watercress +is extensively cultivated, enormous quantities being sent into London +from St. Albans, Hemel Hempstead, Berkhampstead, Welwyn and many other +districts. Much manure is brought to the farms from the London stables, +and by its aid large second crops of vegetables are frequently obtained. +Clover, turnips and tares may be mentioned among other crops +prominently cultivated. Fruit is also sent to London, particularly from +the district lying between Tring, Watford and St. Albans, but none of +the orchards are large. + +The number of pigs reared in the county is--or was quite +recently--rather above the average (per 100 acres under cultivation) for +all England; the number of cattle rather below, and of sheep much below, +this average. + +2. _Manufactures_ are fairly numerous. + +(_a_) _Straw Plait_ has for over 200 years been extensively made by hand +for the Luton dealers. The wages earned by peasant girls and women in +this employment were formerly high; 100 years ago a woman, if dexterous, +might earn as much as L1 a week, but the increase in machinery and the +competition from foreign plait has almost destroyed this cottage +industry in some districts. During the last four decades several large +straw hat manufactories have been erected in St. Albans, and the trade +enlarged, although the conditions of production are altered. + +(_b_) _Malting_ is still extensively carried on at Ware, which has been +the centre of the industry for many years; it is said, indeed, to be the +largest malting town in England. There are nearly 100 malting houses, +many of them being beside the River Lea, navigable from this town for +barges W. to Hertford and S. to London. There are extensive _Breweries_ +at St. Albans, Watford, Hertford, High Barnet, Baldock, Hitchin, +Hatfield, Tring, Berkhampstead, and other places. + +(_c_) _Brick Fields_ are worked at Watford, St. Albans, Hemel Hempstead, +Broxbourne, Bishop's Stortford, Hitchin and elsewhere. + +(_d_) _Brushes_ of many kinds are manufactured at St. Albans and +Berkhampstead. + +(_e_) _Hurdles_ are made at Barkway, Croxley Green, Breachwood Green, +Chorley Wood, Albury, and at one or two other places. + +(_f_) _Iron Foundries_ are at Hertford, Ippollitts, Royston, Colne +Valley (Watford), Hitchin and Puckeridge. + +(_g_) _Paper_ is made at Croxley Mills, King's Langley, and Nash Mills. + +(_h_) _Silk_ is made at the large mill on the River Ver, St. Albans, and +at Redbourn. + +(_i_) _Photographic plates_, _paper_, etc., are made at Watford, Boreham +Wood and Barnet. + +(_j_) _Lavender Water_ is made at Hitchin, from lavender grown in fields +close by. + +_Gravel_ abounds in many districts, and pits are extensively worked at +Rickmansworth, Hertford and at Heath, Wheathampstead, Watford and +Harpenden. + +There are _windmills_ at Cromer, Albury, Goff's Oak, Anstey, Arkley, +Much Hadham, Weston, Tring and Bushey Heath. _Water mills_ are too +numerous to specify, there being several on many of the small rivers +named in Section II. + + +VIII. HISTORY + +Hertfordshire was formerly a part of Mercia and of Essex. Its share in +what is usually called "History" can hardly be called great; but many +interesting details of its story are recorded in the histories of +Chauncy, Salmon, Clutterbuck, and Cussans. Among smaller works the +following will be found useful: Cobb's _Berkhampstead_; Gibbs' +_Historical Records of St. Albans_; Nicholson's _Abbey of St. Albans_; +Bishop's _Hitchin and Neighbourhood_, and _Bygone Hertfordshire_ by +various writers. + +The story of Hertfordshire may be said to commence with the sack of the +great Roman city of _Verulamium_ by the followers of Boadicea, Queen of +the Iceni[e] (A.D. 61). Our knowledge of the event is largely +drawn from Tacitus, and Dion Cassius, who give revolting details of the +torture of the inhabitants by the Britons. The martyrdom of St. Alban +(_circa_ A.D. 304) the Synod of Verulam (429), the second +destruction of that city by the Saxons towards the end of the sixth +century and the siege of Hertford by the Danes in 896, when Alfred the +Great grounded their vessels by cutting the river banks, are some of the +more prominent episodes of pre-Conquest times. William I., entering the +county from the direction of Wallingford, met the Saxon nobles in +council at Berkhampstead immediately before his coronation at +Westminster. The castles of Hertford and Berkhampstead were captured by +the revolted barons. + +There was a dangerous insurrection of the peasantry in the days of +Richard II. Three important battles were fought in Hertfordshire, during +the Wars of the Roses: (1) At St. Albans on 23rd (?) May, 1455; (2) on +Bernard's Heath, St. Albans, 17th February, 1461; (3) near Chipping +Barnet, 14th April, 1471; these battles are mentioned more fully in the +Sections on St. Albans and Barnet. + +The residence of the Princess Elizabeth at Ashridge Park and her +subsequent captivity at Hatfield up to the time of her accession (1558) +may be here mentioned, but the more casual visits of monarchs are +referred to as occasion requires. + +The county was not the scene of any considerable engagement during the +great Rebellion; but the Parliamentary troops are held responsible for +much ecclesiastical sacrilege at St. Albans, Hitchin and elsewhere, and +it was from Theobalds that Charles I. set out to meet his army in 1642. +In 1647, when a prisoner in the care of Cornet Joyce, he was taken from +Leighton Buzzard to Baldock and from thence to Royston. The march of +Cromwell from Cambridge to St. Albans towards the end of the war is +recorded rather too literally on the interior of several churches. + +Of importance in history was the Rye House Plot (1683), a carefully laid +but abortive scheme to murder Charles II. and James, Duke of York, on +their way to London from Newmarket. (See Rye House.) + + +IX. ANTIQUITIES + +The antiquities of Hertfordshire have been carefully studied and well +repay the labour that has been bestowed upon them. A few words under +several heads will suffice to show that the subject is a large one. + +1. _Prehistoric._--_Paleolithic_ man--in whom we are all so interested, +but of whom we know so little--must have dwelt in Hertfordshire for a +long period, a period to be measured by centuries rather than by years. +Perhaps, however, the word "dwelt" is hardly appropriate here; for +doubtless, for the most part, the rude flint-shaper and skin-clad hunter +roamed at random over this tract of land wherever necessity led him. It +is usual to speak of him as a troglodyte, or cave-dweller, but the caves +of Hertfordshire are, and probably _were_ few, and his life in such a +district would therefore be more than usually nomadic. As is often the +case, we find traces of him in the river-valleys more frequently than +elsewhere, and it is in beds of clay, conjectured to be of lacustrine +origin, that we find those rudely shapen flint nodules which served him +for tools. Such implements have been found in the Valley of the Gade by +Sir John Evans, K.C.B.; in more central neighbourhoods by Mr. +Worthington G. Smith; and many axes, knives, etc., were discovered only +a few years ago near Hitchin. Implements of the _Neolithic_ Age are +naturally more numerous and form in themselves an interesting study in +the evolution of manual skill. Flint axe-heads, wonderfully polished, +have been found at Albury, Abbot's Langley, Panshanger and Ware; chipped +flints of more fragmentary character have been found near St. Albans and +elsewhere; flint arrow-heads were discovered at Tring Grove nearly 170 +years ago. The great number of natural flints found in the county make +it very difficult to recognise these archaeological treasures, many of +which must thus escape detection and be destroyed. Some details of the +discovery of Prehistoric implements are given in the Gazetteer. + +2. _Pre-Roman._--The earliest inhabitants of Hertfordshire in times more +or less "historic" were of Celtic blood; these, after a settlement of +considerable duration, were driven out by Belgic invaders, of whom the +Cassii, or Cateuchlani, seem to have been one of the most powerful +tribes. The Cassii, who shared at least a part of the district with the +Trinobantes, were numerous and war-like when Caesar invaded Britain; +their chief, Cassivellaunus, is believed to have lived near what is now +St. Albans. He was chosen as leader by the British, and offered stout +resistance to the Romans, but was driven back and his capital--wherever +it was--stormed and captured. Earth works, supposed to have been erected +by these Pre-Roman inhabitants, still remain at Hexton, Ashwell, Great +Wymondley, Tingley Wood, and elsewhere, but are rapidly disappearing in +the general obliteration of ancient landmarks. Grymes-dyke, still to be +traced on Berkhampstead Common, is the most famous; but many others are +marked in a map prepared by Sir John Evans. Some of these are hardly +more than conjectural sites; a few will be mentioned in the Gazetteer. +Bronze Celts of many kinds are in the possession of Mr. W. Ransom, +F.S.A.; some of these were found at Cumberlow Green. Relics of the +Bronze Age in the county include two bracelets of gold found at Little +Amwell; and many narrow hatchets, or palstaves, from the neighbourhood +of Hitchin. + +To the Late Celtic Period belong the imperfect iron sword-blade, in a +bronze sheath, discovered at Bourne End and now in the British Museum; +also the two bronze helmets, one from the neighbourhood of Hitchin, and +one from Tring. At Hitchin, too, was discovered some pottery of the same +period. + +3. _Roman._--Hertfordshire formed a part of the Flavia Caesariensis of +the Romans--the district E. of the Severn and N. of the Thames. Most +important of their stations was the municipium at Verulamium (W. of St. +Albans) of which some fragments of wall yet remain in the neighbourhood +of the River Ver and the Verulam Woods; here, too, is the site of the +only Roman theatre known in Britain (of _amphitheatres_ there are many +remains). There were also stations at Cheshunt (Ceaster), at Braughing +(ad Fines), at Berkhampstead (Durocobrivis?), at Ashwell, Wilbury Hill, +etc.; there was a cemetery at Sarratt; a sepulchre at Royston. Roman +villas have been unearthed at Purwell Mill, Abbots Langley and Boxmoor. +The Roman coins found in the county would, if brought together, form an +exceedingly valuable collection. They have been found in considerable +numbers at St. Albans, Ware, Hoddesdon, Hitchin, Willian, Ashwell, +Caldecote, Boxmoor, and many other places. Small bronze coins, known as +_minimi_, have been recently found at St. Albans, and are now in the +city museum. They date from after the year 345, when the earliest +specimens of this type were struck, and are conjectured to be copies of +coins issued under Constantius II. (337-61) and Julian the Apostate +(361-3). On the obverse is the "Imperial Head"; on the reverse a soldier +striking with his spear at a man on horseback. The coins, however, are +assigned by at least one numismatist to a later date. They may have +issued from a Romano-British mint at Verulamium. The famous Watling +Street entered the county at Elstree and crossed it by way of St. Albans +and Redbourn to Dunstable (Beds); the Icknield Way ran N.W. through +Ickleford, Baldock and Royston; Akeman Street passed through Watford, +Berkhampstead and Tring; Ermine Street, entering Hertfordshire at +Waltham, passed through Ware and Braughing to Royston. + +4. _Saxon._--A few fragmentary remains at Berkhampstead, Bennington, +Offley and Hitchin have been thought to mark the sites of the palaces of +Mercian kings; but genuine Saxon remains are scarcely found except, +perhaps, among the foundations of a few churches, _e.g._, St. Michael's +at St. Albans, Standon and Wheathampstead. + +Mention must however be made of the story, narrated in _Archaeologia_, of +the discovery of the sepulchre of St. Amphibalus at a spot near Redbourn +called the "Hills of the Banners". St. Alban himself appeared to a +layman in a vision and told him where the saint's bones were to be +found,--indeed, he is said to have himself gone thither to point out the +spot. This was during the abbacy of Symon (1167-83). We learn from Roger +of Wendover that the remains of St. Amphibalus were found lying between +those of two other men; the bones of seven others were also lying close +by. Among the relics found with the bones of the saint were two large +knives, one of which was in his skull. We know that the holy relics were +deemed worthy of solemn removal to the Abbey of St. Albans; his shrine +there is mentioned in the Gazetteer. + +In the _Antiquary_ (vol. xi.) mention is made of the supposed discovery +of an Anglo-Saxon burial ground in a field near Sandridge. Many bones +and some implements were unearthed, and pronounced by local experts to +date from Saxon times. They were buried again by some ignorant person. + +A bronze brooch, discovered at Boxmoor, has been assigned to "the +latest period of true Anglo-Saxon art". A gold ornament, resembling an +armlet, was found at the village of Park Street, near St. Albans; it is +thought to date from A.D. 700-1000. + +5. _Churches._--These will be separately mentioned in due order, +especially St. Albans Abbey, the unique meeting ground of all Styles; +but a few sentences touching the predominant periods may be permissible +here:-- + +_Norman_ work is found in many places; Anstey, Bengeo, Barley, East +Barnet, Graveley, Hemel Hempstead, Little Hormead, and Ickleford are +largely of this period, and Norman features are mingled with later work +at Abbots Langley, Baldock, Weston, Great Munden, Great Wymondley, +Knebworth, Redbourn, Sarratt, and the churches of SS. Michael and +Stephen at St. Albans. There are Norman fonts at Broxbourne, Bishop's +Stortford (found beneath the flooring in 1869) Anstey, Buckland, +Harpenden, Great Wymondley and Standon. + +_Early English_ churches are at Ashwell, Brent Pelham, Digswell, +Furneaux Pelham, Great Munden (Norman doorway), Knebworth, Royston, +Stevenage and Wheathampstead. Some of these, _e.g._, Digswell and +Knebworth, are pleasantly situated and others contain features of great +interest, but on the whole they can hardly boast of much architectural +beauty. + +_Decorated_ churches are rarely found without prominent transitional +features, the purest structures dating from that period being those at +Flamstead, Hatfield, North Mimms, Standon, and Ware. Early Decorated +portions are noticeable among Norman surroundings at Hemel Hempstead, +and among Early English at Wheathampstead; Late Decorated is found with +Perpendicular at Hitchin. Standon is the only W. porch in the county. +Flamstead and Wheathampstead are the only churches in the county that +have retained their original vestries, N. of the chancel. + +_Perpendicular_ churches are fairly numerous in Hertfordshire. Almost +purely Perpendicular structures are those at Bishop's Stortford, +Bennington, Broxbourne, Clothall, Hunsdon, King's Langley, Sandon, St. +Peters (St. Albans), Tring and Watford. Churches later than +Perpendicular cannot be mentioned as antiquities. + +A characteristic feature of Hertfordshire churches--rare elsewhere--is +the narrow tapering _fleche_, or leaded spire; a feature almost wholly +absent is the apse, which is, I believe, present only at Bengeo, Great +Wymondley, and Amwell. + + +X. CELEBRATED MEN + +Comparatively few really famous men have been born in Hertfordshire, but +very many have resided in the county, or have at least been associated +with it sufficiently to justify the mention of their names here. + +1. _Men of Letters._--Chaucer was clerk of the works at Berkhampstead +Castle in the time of Richard II.; Matthew Paris, the chronicler, lived +and wrote in the great Benedictine monastery at St. Albans; Sir John +Maundeville, once called the "father of English prose," was, according +to his own narrative, born at St. Albans and, if we may trust an old +inscription, was buried in the abbey;[2] Dr. Cotton, the poet, lived and +died in the same town, where the poet Cowper lodged with him at the +"Collegium Insanorum". Bacon lived at Gorhambury and was buried in the +neighbouring church of St. Michael. Bulwer Lytton lived and wrote at +Knebworth, where he was visited by Forster, Dickens and others. George +Chapman translated much of Homer at Hitchin, and is believed to have +been born in that town. Young, the author of the _Night Thoughts_, was +for many years Rector of Welwyn; his son was visited there by Boswell +and Dr. Johnson. Macaulay was at school at Aspenden. John Scott, the +Quaker poet, lived at Amwell; Lee, the dramatist, was born at Hatfield. +Skelton probably stayed at Ashridge just before the Dissolution of the +Monasteries; Sir Thomas More lived awhile at Gobions, North Mimms. +Cowper was born at Berkhampstead. The county has been immortalised by +Walton and Lamb in writings known to all. + +[Footnote 2: As most readers are aware, it is now, to say the least, +gravely questioned whether "Sir John Maundeville" was ever more than a +name.] + +2. _Divines._--Bunyan laboured and preached much in Hitchin and its +neighbourhood; Baxter preached at Sarratt and elsewhere, and lived +awhile at Totteridge; Isaac Watts lived for many years at Theobalds near +Cheshunt; Philip Doddridge was at school at St. Albans. Fox, in his +_Journal_, mentions visiting Hitchin, Baldock and other places. +Tillotson was a curate at Cheshunt; Ken was born at Little +Berkhampstead; Nathaniel Field, a man of prodigious learning, chaplain +to James I., was born at Hemel Hempstead. William Penn, whom many +considered a divine indeed, lived with his beautiful wife at Basing +House, Rickmansworth; Godwin was an Independent minister at Ware. Ridley +and Bonner were much in the county. Fleetwood, afterwards Bishop of +Worcester, was Rector of Anstey; Cudworth was Vicar of Ashwell; Warham +was Rector of Barley; Horsley was Rector of Thorley. The two Sherlocks, +respectively Master of the Temple and Bishop of London, were Rectors of +Therfield. Lightfoot, the Great Hebraist, was Rector of Great Munden. + +To classify other celebrities connected with the county would require +almost as many headings as names. Henry Bessemer was born at Charlton +near Hitchin; Cardinal Wolsey lived at Delamere House, Great Wymondley; +the munificent Somers lived at North Mimms; Nicholas Breakspeare, who +became Pope Adrian IV., was born at Abbots Langley; Piers Gaveston was +much at Berkhampstead and was buried in the priory church at King's +Langley; Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, lived at Theobalds +and is buried at Hatfield; Lords Melbourne and Palmerston lived much at +Brocket Hall, where the latter died; Sir Ralph Sadleir, statesman and +ambassador to Scotland, who is said to have rallied the English at +Pinkie, lived at Standon and is buried in the church. + +Many noble or illustrious families have resided in Hertfordshire. Some +of the owners of old manors are mentioned in the Gazetteer; but a few +prominent families may be here named. The Cecils have been Lords of +Hatfield since James I. gave the manor to the first Earl of Salisbury in +exchange for that at Theobalds. The Cowpers have resided at Panshanger +since the erection of their castellated mansion in the Park a century +ago by the fifth earl. The Egertons, Dukes and Earls of Bridgewater, +lived at Ashridge; one of them, Francis, third duke, is known in history +as "the father of British inland navigation," and another was the +projector of the famous _Bridgewater Treatises_. The Capells, Earls of +Essex, have owned the beautiful estate at Cassiobury Park since the +father of the first earl obtained it by marriage during the reign of +Charles I. The Rothschild family have an estate at Tring; Lord Ebury is +the owner of Moor Park; Lord Lytton still owns the grand old house of +the great novelist at Knebworth, founded nearly 350 years ago. The Earl +of Cavan has a house at Wheathampstead; Viscount Hampden at Kimpton Hoo; +Earl Strathmore at St. Paul's Walden Bury; the Earl of Clarenden (Lord +Lieut. of Herts) at the Grove, Leavesden; Lord Grimthorpe lived at St. +Albans. Gorhambury, near St. Albans, is the home of the Earl of Verulam. +Mgr. Robert Hugh Benson lived and wrote many novels at Hare Street +House, near Buntingford. + + + + +DESCRIPTION OF PLACES IN HERTFORDSHIRE ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY + + +Abbreviations of architectural terms:-- + E.E. = Early English. + Dec. = Decorated. + Perp. = Perpendicular. + +ABBOTS LANGLEY (11/2 mile S.E. of King's Langley Station) is a village on +prettily wooded high ground near the river Gade. It is famous as the +birthplace of Nicholas Breakspeare, who, having vainly endeavoured to be +admitted as a monk in the great Benedictine monastery at St. Albans, +studied at Paris and eventually became Pope Adrian IV. He died in 1158 +at Anagni; tradition states that he was choked with a fly whilst +drinking. The village probably owes its name, first, to its length, +"Langley" signifying a long land; second, to the fact that in the days +of Edward the Confessor it was given to the Abbots of St. Albans by +Egelwine the Black and Wincelfled[f] his wife. An entry in _Domesday_ +records that there were two mills on this manor, yielding 30s. rent +yearly, and wood to feed 300 hogs. The Church of St. Lawrence has nave, +aisles and clerestory; a chancel with S. aisle, and square embattled +tower. The windows are mostly Perp., but those of the S. aisle are Dec. +Note (1) the monument to Lord Chief Justice Raymond, died 1732; (2) the +brasses in nave to Thos. Cogdell and his two wives, 1607, and to Ralph +Horwode and family, 1478. Late in the reign of Henry VIII. the vicarage +was rated at L10 per annum. An inscription in the chancel, copied in +Chauncy, reads "Here lieth Robert Nevil and Elizabeth his wife, which +Robert deceased the 28th of April in the year of our Lord God 1475. This +World is but a Vanity, to Day a man, to Morrow none." Prince Charles +held a Court at Abbots Langley during the Reign of James I. + +ALBURY (31/2 miles E. of Braughing Station) is a village near the river +Ash. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, dates from the fourteenth +century; it was recently restored. There was an earlier structure so far +back as the days of Stephen, in whose reign Robert de Sigillo gave the +profits of the church at _Eldeberei_ to Geoffery, first Treasurer of St. +Paul's Church, London. An interesting will, dated 4th November, 1589, +records that Marmaduke Bickerdy, Vicar of Aldebury, gave an acre of land +in the neighbourhood to provide a sum for distribution among the poor on +every Good Friday. In the chancel the mutilated effigies of a man and +woman are said to represent Sir Walter de la Lee and his wife. Sir +Walter sat in nine Parliaments in the interests of the county--at +Westminster, Northampton and Cambridge, and was Sheriff of Herts and +Essex. He died during the reign of Richard II. _Albury Hall_, close by, +is a fine old mansion, where the "Religeous, Just and Charitable" Sir +Edward Atkins, Knight, and Baron of the Exchequer, died in 1669. The +village is usually a quiet spot, with little business, but it is +pleasantly situated; the proximity of the river and some scattered +cottages and farms enhance its attractiveness. + +_Albury End_ is a small hamlet about 1 mile S.W. of Albury. + +[Illustration: THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY] + +ALDBURY (11/2 mile E. from Tring Station) is a village on the +Buckinghamshire border, nestled in a beautiful valley close to Ashridge +Park (_q.v._). It is the "Clinton Magna" of _Bessie Costrell_, and the +author of that story, Mrs. Humphrey Ward, lived at _Stocks_, a few +minutes' walk from the village. On the Tring side Aldbury is sheltered +by swelling fields and to the E. beech woods cover the hillside, which +is topped by the "Aldbury Monument," a granite column about 100 feet +high erected to the memory of Francis, third Duke of Bridgewater, whose +labours and enterprise for the extension of canals earned for him the +well-known title "the father of inland navigation". As a village of the +Old English type Aldbury has perhaps no equal in the county. In the +centre is the green and pond, under the shadow of an enormous elm; close +by stand the stocks and whipping-post, recently in excellent +preservation. The Church of St. John the Baptist is E.E.; it was +restored in 1867. Visitors should notice the old sundial on a pedestal +in the churchyard, and the Verney Chapel, which is separated from the +nave by a screen of stone, and contains a monument to Sir Robert +Whittingham, who was slain at the battle of Tewkesbury. The church also +contains memorials of the Hides and Harcourts, families who left several +charities to the poor of the parish. In the days of Edward the Confessor +the manor of _Aldeberie_[g] was held by one Alwin, the king's thane. The +ascent of the wooded slope towards the Bridgewater monument takes the +visitor through one of the most beautiful districts in the county, and a +noble prospect stretches before him as he looks back through the beeches +towards the village in the valley beneath. + +ALDENHAM (2 miles S.W. from Radlett Station M.R.) is a village +pleasantly situated near the river Colne, reached by way of Berry Grove +at the W. end of the village. The churchyard is locally famous for the +tombs of a man and woman named Hutchinson, which, singularly enough, +have been riven apart and almost destroyed by three sycamore trees about +a century old. The Church of St. John the Baptist is largely Perp. with +earlier portions, and is worth a visit, if only for the oaken nave-roof, +believed to date from about 1480, and for the font of Purbeck marble, +probably 750 years old. An object of greater interest in some eyes is +the fine parish chest, formed from one massive piece of oak nearly ten +feet in length, and furnished with iron clamps and hinges of great +size; there are few finer old parish chests in England. Note also (1) +the triple sedilia in chancel; (2) the many brasses dating from 1450, +several of which are to the Cary family; (3) two palimpsest brasses in +the vestry, one of which bears a portion of a mutilated inscription to +one Long, an alderman of London, who died in 1536. The church was +restored in 1882 by Sir A. W. Blomfield, F.S.A. _Aldenham House_, +property of Lord Aldenham, dates from the days of Charles II., and +stands in a park of about 300 acres. + +_Aldenham Abbey_, once known as Wall Hall, stands close to the parish +church; it is about a century old, and belongs to the Stuart family. + +_Aldwick Farm_ is 1 mile N.E. from Marston Gate Station, L.&N.W.R. + +_Allen's Green_, a hamlet 2 miles N.W. from Sawbridgeworth, contains +little of interest. + +_Almshoebury_ (11/2 mile W. of Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is about fifteen +minutes' walk from the ruins of _Minsden Chapel_ (_q.v._). + +AMWELL is a tiny hamlet 1 mile S.W. of Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R. + +AMWELL, GREAT, a parish and village 11/2 mile S.E. of Ware Station, +G.E.R., is very prettily situated near the New River, and is known by +name to many who have never visited the neighbourhood, for the village +is frequently mentioned in the essays and letters of Charles Lamb. The +church stands on a wooded slope; near by are the village stocks, the +tiny island upon which stands a monument to Sir Hugh Myddelton, the +projector of the New River, and the stone bearing some lines written by +John Scott, the Quaker. The grotto constructed by the poet may still be +seen near the railway station at Ware. The church is an architectural +conglomeration, with several stained windows, one of which was +contributed by the children of the parish as an Easter offering nearly +seventy years ago. The structure was restored in 1866. There is a +piscina in the chancel, and one in the S. wall of the nave; there are +also two hagioscopes. "The chancel arch," writes Canon Benham, "seems to +me Anglo-Saxon, and the chancel is a most curious apse." Thomas Warner, +a friend of Shakespeare, and Isaac Reed, a Shakespearian commentator, +were both buried here. + +_Amwell End_, once at the N.W. extremity of the parish of Great Amwell, +is now a part of Ware (_q.v._). + +_Amwell, Little_ (about 11/2 mile S.W. from Great Amwell), was formerly a +liberty in the parish of All Saints, Hertford; it has formed a separate +civil and ecclesiastical parish since 1864. The Church of Holy Trinity +is E.E. in style; it was erected in 1863. The district is now usually +called Hertford Heath. An interesting, pleasant ramble may be enjoyed by +walking from Hertford to Little Amwell, Great Amwell, and thence to +Ware, or _vice versa_. + +ANSTEY (about 41/2 miles N.E. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) has a +cruciform church of mixed styles: the nave is Dec., the transepts E.E., +the S. porch Perp. The tower rests upon four Norman arches; the font +also is Norman. The church was restored in 1871; many features of +architectural interest being wisely retained. The recumbent effigy in +the recess in S. transept is thought to be that of Richard de Anestie, +who founded the church in the fourteenth century. We learn from +_Domesday Book_ that at the time of the Great Survey there was "pannage" +(_i.e._ acorn woods) at _Anestie_ sufficient to feed fifty hogs, and +that the manor was worth fourteen pounds a year. There was once a castle +here, built soon after the Conquest, the site of which is supposed to be +marked by the remains of a moat still to be traced in the grounds of +_Anstey Hall_. The churchyard is entered by a covered lich-gate. + +_Appleby Street_ is a hamlet 3 miles N.W. from Cheshunt Station, S.E.R., +and about 2 miles N.W. from the village. + +APSLEY END (about 11/2 mile S. from Hemel Hempstead Station, M.R., and 11/4 +mile S.E. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.) is an ecclesiastical parish +near the river Gade. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, was built in E. +Dec. style in 1871, and is well furnished and decorated. One of the +prettiest prospects in the neighbourhood is that from Abbot's Hill, a +fine private residence, flanked by woods. The Gade and Bulbourne Rivers +unite, a little N.W. from the village, at a place called _Two Waters_ +(_q.v._). + +_Archer's Green_ is on the river Maran, about 1/2 a mile S.E. from Tewin +Church and 13/4 mile N.W. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. It adjoins +_Panshanger Park_ (_q.v._). + +ARDELEY, otherwise Yardley (6 miles S.W. from Buntingford Station, +G.E.R.), is a village and parish in a purely agricultural district. It +is famous through its connection with the Chauncy family, who resided at +Ardeley Bury for many generations; one of them, Sir Henry Chauncy, was +the author of a well-known history of Hertfordshire. The family monument +is outside of the church of St. Lawrence, some existing portions of +which date from the thirteenth century. The roofs of nave and aisles are +noticeable for the angels which they bear, of Tudor character; visitors +should observe, too, the early window in the restored chancel. _Ardeley +Bury_, in the days of Sir Henry Chauncy, was an Elizabethan manor-house +dating from about the year 1580, surrounded by a moat; it was almost +entirely rebuilt of brick in 1815-20, when it became a castellated, +imposing mansion. The manor of _Erdeley_ was owned by a succession of +Saxon kings until Athelstan bestowed it upon the church of St. Paul, +London, as recorded in Dugdale's _Monasticon Anglicanum_; it was of the +Dean and Chapter that the Chauncys rented their estate. The river Beane +rises near here. A stroll around Ardeley and Ardeley Bury leads the +visitor into some of the quietest spots to be found in the county. The +windmill on the hill above Cromer, near by, is useful as a landmark +when threading the many winding lanes in the neighbourhood. + +ARKLEY (1 mile W. from High Barnet) consists chiefly of a few small +houses at a spot once called Barnet Common. The view is extensive in +every direction, the village (strictly speaking the chapelry) lying on +high ground. The chapel of St. Peter was erected in 1840, the style +being a variety of Low Gothic; a chancel (E.E.) was added in 1898, and +has a good groined roof. + +ASH, river; see Introduction, Section VI. + +_Ashbrook_ consists of a few cottages and a beer-shop, 1 mile N.E. from +St. Ippollit's village, and midway between Hitchin and Stevenage +Stations, G.N.R. + +[Illustration: ASHRIDGE HOUSE] + +ASHRIDGE is in a beautifully undulating district, immediately N. of +Berkhampstead Common, 1 mile E. from Aldbury Church and about 2 miles E. +from Tring Station, L.&N.W.R. The present house, the seat of Earl +Brownlow, stands in a park of about 1,000 acres, well known for the deer +which are kept there; it was built by the first Earl of Bridgewater, or +rather by his architect, Wyatt, in 1808-14. It is a huge structure, its +greatest width being 1,000 feet; conspicuous portions are the turreted +centre, some good arched doorways and the large Gothic porch. The site +was formerly occupied by the palace of Edmund Crouchback, Earl of +Cornwall, and by the monastery which he built, adjoining the palace, for +the monks of the Order of Bonhommes, an Order which he himself brought +to this country from France. The earl died here, but his bones were +subsequently removed to Hailes Abbey in Gloucestershire. The house +contains some fine pictures, including, in addition to works by modern +masters, Rubens' "Death of Hippolytus," Luini's "Holy Family" and +Titian's "Three Caesars". In the chapel is a fine brass to John +Swynstede, Prebendary of Lincoln, 1395. It was brought here from +Edlesborough Church. + +ASHWELL is a village of considerable size on the Cambridgeshire border. +The village is 21/2 miles N.W. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R. The parish is +very ancient, and is believed to have been the site of a British +settlement and of a Roman station. The former theory is considered +proved by the existing entrenchments, S.W. from the village, called +Arbury Banks; the latter theory is supported by the fact that very many +Roman relics, especially coins, have been discovered in the +neighbourhood. That it was formerly a place of importance has been +mentioned in the Introduction (Section V.); it was a town in Norman +times, and held four fairs each year. The Rhee, a tributary of the Cam, +rises in this village, at a spot surrounded by ash trees, and to this +fact the parish is thought to owe its name. When Sir H. Rider Haggard +was at Ashwell recently he was unable to say much for its agricultural +prosperity and outlook; but in Chauncy's day the district produced "all +sorts of excellent Grain, especially Barley, which has greatly +encouraged the trade of Malting in this Borrough". The same writer +mentions the stone quarry, from which he tells as that several +neighbouring churches had been built or repaired. The Church of St. Mary +the Virgin is mostly E.E. and is conspicuous for its spire-topped +western tower, 176 feet high, being equal to the length of the church. +Note (1) the large ambry in the S. aisle, once the lady-chapel, where is +also a fragmentary reredos; (2) the curious inscriptions on the inner +side of the tower walls, mostly undecipherable, one of which refers to +the plague that attacked the town in the fourteenth century; (3) the +really fine oaken pulpit, dating from the year 1627. There was formerly +a small monastic house in the town, a cell to Westminster Abbey. From +the village it is an open, breezy walk N. to Ashwell Common or S.E. to +Ashwell Field, between the village and the station. + +ASPENDEN (1 mile S.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) may be reached +from the Old North Road by turning to the left before entering +Buntingford. It is a small, quiet, unimportant village; but much of it +is picturesque and interesting. Readers will remember that Macaulay was +at school here, and that it was the birthplace of Seth Ward, +mathematician and bishop, a contemporary and antagonist of Thomas +Hobbes. The church is a flint structure,--a conglomeration of many +styles. Notable features are the Easter sepulchre in the N. wall of +chancel, the Norman window close to it, the piscina, ambry and credence +table, discovered during the restoration of the church by Sir A. W. +Blomfield in 1873. There are also memorial windows to members of the +Lushington family, and an altar tomb, under a canopy of marble, to "Sir +Robert Clyfford" (d. 1508), who built the church porch in 1500, and to +his wife Elizabeth. The tomb bears brass effigies of these worthies, +which were once in the Church of St. Michael, Cornhill, but were brought +to Aspenden at the time of the fire of London. The aisle (S.) was built +by Sir Ralph Jocelyn in 1478. This Sir Ralph was lord of the manor; he +is remembered in history for his sally against Thomas Nevill, when that +adventurer attempted to rescue Henry VI. from the Tower. He was twice +Lord Mayor of London (1464 and 1476). He died in 1478 and was buried at +Sawbridgeworth. + +ASTON (21/4 miles N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) has an ancient +church restored in 1883. There is E.E. work in parts of nave and +chancel, but other portions are largely Perp., especially the tower, +which is embattled. The alabaster reredos and several memorial windows +are worth notice; nor should visitors overlook the brass at the foot of +the chancel steps to one John Kent, his wife and ten children. This +worthy died in 1592; he was a servant of Edward VI., Mary and Elizabeth. +The village is scattered upon a hill a little W. from the river Beane, +and dates from Saxon times. The manor was once owned by three men under +the protection of Archbishop Stigand; afterwards by the Abbot of +Reading. It fell to the Crown at the Dissolution, like so many other +properties. + +_Aston Bury_ is a fine manor house of red brick, about 3/4 mile S. from +the village, formerly the property of the Boteler family. The prospect +from the N. windows is a noble one, the district being varied and +undulating. + +_Aston End_, a hamlet 1 mile N.W. from Aston, may be reached from +Stevenage Station, G.N.R., about 21/2 miles. There is little here of +interest, but the neighbourhood is very pleasant and largely +agricultural. + +_Astrope Hamlet_ (1/2 mile E. from Puttenham) is midway between the +village of Long Marston and the Aylesbury Canal. It is close to the +Bucks border. + +_Astwick Farm_ is 2 miles N.W. from Hatfield Station, G.N.R. + +_Attimore Hall_ is 11/2 mile S.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R. + +_Aubrey Camp_ (3/4 mile S.W. from Redbourn) is conjectured to be the site +of an early British encampment. + +_Austage End_ lies in the parish of King's Walden, in a purely +agricultural district. + +_Ayot Green_ is about 1/2 mile S.E. from and in the parish of Ayot St. +Peter's (_q.v._). + +AYOT ST. LAWRENCE (21/2 miles N.E. from Wheathampstead Station and about +the same distance N.W. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) has a new and an old +church. The former is in Ayot Park, and was designed by Revett in a +classical style. Note (1) the _Eastern_ portico, with colonnade on +either side; (2) the memorial to Sir Lionel Lyde, Bart. (d. 1791), and +to the architect of the church (d. 1804). The earlier structure, still +in ruins near the middle of the village, was Dec. of an early period, +with several singular features; the tower, however, was Perp. "The +Windows ... have been adorn'd with curious Pictures, in stained and +painted Glass, beyond many other Churches." The village has at different +times been styled Eye, Aiot, Great Aiot, and Ayot St. Lawrence, and was +a parcel of the property of Harold Godwin. _Ayot House_, standing in a +beautiful park of 200 acres, was once the property and residence of Sir +William Parr, brother to Catherine Parr, Queen of Henry VIII. A room in +an older building in the rear of the present mansion was once, according +to local tradition, the prison of Catherine Parr. There are shoes at +Ayot House which belonged to Anne Boleyn and a hat of Henry VIII. + +AYOT ST. PETER'S (1/4 mile N. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) lies in a pretty +district watered by the rivers Maran and Lea. The village is small, but +has a commodious Parish Room, containing a small library. There was a +mill here in the time of the Great Survey, the rent of which was three +shillings and 200 eels from the mill-pool per annum. A church, bearing +"a short spire erected upon the tower," stood on the hill-top in +Chauncy's day; in 1751 an octagonal structure of red brick was built by +the rector (Dr. Freeman) some distance from the village. This church was +demolished in 1862 and a new one built upon its site; in 1874 this +was in turn destroyed by lightning, and in 1875 the present church of +St. Peter, E.E. in style, was erected much nearer to the village. It +contains a very fine pulpit, carved by Miss Bonham, of Norwood, upon +which the figures of SS. Alban and Helen are conspicuous among others. +There are several memorial windows, tastefully designed, one of which, +to the memory of Mrs. I. A. Robinson, was designed by the architect (J. +P. Seddon). A delightful stroll may be taken from the village, westwards +to Wheathampstead or Lamer Park, or northwards to Codicote or Kimpton. +Nightingales are plentiful in the neighbourhood; the numerous thickets, +dense and secluded, affording excellent shelter to this shy songster. + +_Baas Hill_ is 3/4 mile W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R. + +_Babb's Green_ (nearly midway between Mardock and Widford Station, +G.E.R.) is a small hamlet. + +_Baker's Grove_ is 11/2 miles S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R. + +[Illustration: OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK] + +BALDOCK, a small town in the northern extremity of the county, lies +between the chalk hills at the junction of the Great North Road and the +Roman Icknield Way. The malting industry is still busily pursued, +although the town is not so exclusively devoted to it as formerly. Very +fine barley was grown in the district before the reign of Elizabeth, and +the horse fairs, of which there are several annually, are well attended. +The township was founded by the Knights Templars, in whose time there +stood a Lazar-house a little eastwards from the town. The church, +dating from the fourteenth century, is large, and of considerable +architectural interest. The chancel and adjoining chapels are Perp. and +contain sedilia and piscinae; the nave has eight bays and a lofty +clerestory. The rood-screen is co-extensive with the width of the entire +church; the octagonal font is of great antiquity (probably not less than +700 years); there are several brasses, two of which are of the early +part of the fifteenth century. Note also (1) the defaced slab, with +Lombardic inscription to Reynaud de Argenthem, (2) the piscina-like +recess in the N. chapel, (3) the Dec. pillars and arches of nave, (4) +the fine old chest near rood-screen (N. chapel). Baldock has been the +recipient of many bequests; existing charities are in the name of Roe, +Wynne, Pryor, Cooch, Clarkson, Smith, Parker, and a few others, the +whole aggregating a considerable annual sum. The Wynne Almshouses are in +the spacious High Street, where are also the fine town hall and fire +station, erected in 1896-7. Some side streets between the church and +station are noticeable for the variety of cottage architecture which +they display. + +BARKWAY (4 miles S.E. from Royston station, G.N.R.) was a village of +some importance in the old coaching days, for it is on the main road +from Ware to Cambridge. It was partly burnt in 1592. There are many +quaint houses in the neighbourhood, and one or two inns seem to still +retain something of the atmosphere of the old regime. Near the village, +at a spot called Rokey Wood, a small bronze statue of Mars was +discovered some years ago. It is of Roman workmanship and is now in the +British Museum. Cyclists riding northwards or eastwards from Barkway +will find many hills to test their powers; but the air is exceptionally +good and the district decidedly worth visiting. The church (flint, with +stone quoins) is Perp. with embattled and pinnacled western tower; it +was restored in 1861. Several memorials are worth noticing: (1) marble +sarcophagus, with bust by Rysbrach, to Admiral Sir John Jennings (d. +1743); (2) brass on N. wall, found in the flooring during restoration, +to Robert Poynard (d. 1561), his wives Bridget and Joan, and his four +daughters; (3) monuments to Chester and Clinton families in chancel. The +once annual Pedlars' Fair has been discontinued; as has also the Tuesday +market, which dated from the days of Henry III. In Saxon times the +village was called Bergwant, _i.e._, the way over the hill. + +BARLEY, a village on the Essex border, is 2 miles N.E. from Barkway, and +lies on the same high road. The Church of St. Margaret was restored in +1872, in fourteenth century Gothic, but the tower, which is Norman, +still stands. During the restoration some curious jars, of ancient make, +were found in the chancel walls, but were broken in the efforts to +dislodge them. There is a brass to Andrew Willet, D.D., rector of the +parish and author of _Synopsis Papismi_ (d. 1621). + +Some interesting data for a book on the antiquities of Barley are +preserved in the pre-Reformation "Parish Hutch". I may mention the +"towne house ... tyme out of mynde used and employed for the keeping of +maides' marriages," and the "Playstoe" or "common playinge place for the +younge people and other inhabitants of the said towne". This "towne +house" may still be seen near the church. + +_Barleycroft End_ is S.E. from Furneaux Pelham (_q.v._). It almost +adjoins that village. + +BARNET, EAST (1/2 mile from Oakleigh Park Station, G.N.R.) is surrounded +by Middlesex except to the N.W. where it adjoins New Barnet. The old +village is situated at the meeting of the roads from High Barnet, +Southgate and Enfield. The Church of St. Mary the Virgin is very +interesting; it stands on the hill-top, at a sharp bend in the road, +about 1/2 mile S. from the village. It is said to have been founded about +the year 1100 by an abbot of St. Albans; if this date is approximately +correct this abbot must have been Richard d'Aubeny or de Albini, who +ruled the great monastery from 1097 to 1119, and in whose day the whole +manor (including Chipping or High Barnet) belonged to the Abbey of St. +Albans. The structure is Early Norman, with a western tower of brick, +through the lower portion of which the church is entered. The N. wall +is probably the most ancient church wall in this part of the county. +There is a lich-gate at the N. entrance to the churchyard. A son of +Bishop Burnet, the historian, was once rector here, and is buried in the +church. Tradition states that Thomson the poet was tutor to the son of +Lord Binning when that nobleman lived at the old Manor House, the site +of which is now a part of the rectory garden. Near the church, too, +stood once a house in which Lady Arabella Stuart was confined. _Belmont +House_ (C. A. Hanbury, Esq., D.L., J.P.) marks the site where stood +Mount Pleasant, once the property of the Belted Will Howard, Warden of +the Western Marches, referred to in the "Lay of the Last Minstrel". +_Little Grove_, a house on Cat Hill (Mrs. Stern), stands where stood +formerly the house of the widow of Sir Richard Fanshawe, Bart., +Ambassador to Spain in the reign of Charles I. The whole neighbourhood +is varied and undulating; the eastern extremity of the parish touched +the confines of Enfield Chace until late in the eighteenth century. + +BARNET, HIGH (formerly "Chipping Barnet" from the market granted by +Henry II. to the Abbots of St. Albans, which was held every Monday), +stands on the hill-top about 11 miles N.W. from London, and 9 miles S.E. +from St. Albans. As stated above, the manor belonged to the Abbots of +St. Albans, and Chauncy tells a story in this connection which is worth +repeating: "Anno 18, Edw. I., the Abbot of St. Albans (Roger de Norton, +24th Abbot) impleaded several Persons for prostrating his Ditch and +burning his Hedges and Fences in the Night at _Bernet_; Richard +Tykering, one of the Defendants, said, that because the Abbot enclosed +his Pasture with Hedge and Ditch, so that he and the Tenants there, +could not have their common, as their Ancestors were wont to have, they +did lay open the same. The Abbot answered that they ought not to have +Common there; but 'twas found by the Jury that the Tenants ought to have +Common; and Judgment was given against the said Richard Tickering only +for that he burnt the Hedge." Other squabbles between abbot and peasant +are referred to in this book, in the section on St. Albans. The Parish +Church of St. John the Baptist stands at the junction of the roads from +London, Enfield and St. Albans. It has known many changes. A church +stood upon the spot so long ago as _circa_ 1250, to which a detached +tower was added about a century later. The body of this structure was +almost wholly replaced by a new building, reaching to and including the +tower, near the end of the abbacy of John de la Moote (1396-1401). The +present church is the result of the restoration and enlargement under +the direction of Mr. W. Butterfield, in 1875; it is of flint and worked +stone, partly Dec. and partly Perp. The old tower was lowered +sufficiently to form a portion of the nave and a new embattled tower +was built, now a conspicuous landmark for many miles round. The present +N. aisle is entirely new. The nave is clerestoried, with eight bays; +most of the windows are of stained glass. The Ravenscroft mortuary +chapel, adjoining the S. transept, contains many monuments, the most +conspicuous being the altar-tomb and recumbent effigy in marble to +Thomas Ravenscroft (d. 1630), which was formerly in the chancel. Other +memorials are to James Ravenscroft (d. 1680) who founded and endowed the +almshouses in Wood Street near by, called _Jesus' Hospital_, and to John +Ravenscroft (d. 1681). Note (1) the beautifully carved font screen, +pinnacled and crocketted; (2) the pulpit, adorned with carved figures of +men famous in English Church history; (3) the four ancient ledgers of +stone, two in the chapel and two in the tower-basement, all inscribed to +members of the Ravenscroft family. The church was formerly a +chapel-of-ease to that at East Barnet. A Roman Catholic church, +dedicated to SS. Mary the Immaculate and Gregory the Great, stands in +Union Street: it was built in 1850. + +On Barnet Common there was formerly a medicinal spring known widely as +"Barnet Wells"; its chalybeate waters are referred to in Pepys' _Diary_, +and more fully praised in _The Perfect Diurnall_ (1652) and _The Barnet +Well Water_ (1800). These waters were in such repute that one John Owen, +an alderman of London, provided L1 to be spent yearly in keeping the +well in fit condition. Barnet Fair, which is held annually early in +September, is attended by cattle dealers from all parts of England and +Scotland, and by showmen and adventurers of all kinds. It is certainly +one of the most famous horse fairs in the country. The ordinary cattle +market is held each Wednesday. + +BATTLE OF BARNET.--Of this engagement, so familiar by name, very little +is known accurately. Early in the spring of 1471, Edward IV., assisted +in his schemes by the Duke of Burgundy, quitted Flanders, whither he had +fled when the Earl of Warwick landed in the S. of England with +reinforcements from Louis XI.; touched, after a difficult passage, at +Cromer, where he heard of the resistance organised by Warwick, and +finally landed at Ravenspurgh on the Humber. Having been joined by +further followers at Nottingham he entered London on Holy Thursday, the +Lancastrians offering little resistance. Warwick collected his forces, +and the two armies met on Easter Sunday on Gladmore Common or Gledsmuir +Heath, to the N.W. of what is now Hadley Wood. The engagement was +desperately contested for five or six hours, with such varying success +that some accounts relate how messengers rode to London during the day +with the news that Edward was losing the battle. This, as it proved, was +not the case. Chauncy repeats the old tradition that a fog gathered over +the battle-field, that the Lancastrians slew one another in the mist +and confusion, and that this led to the death of Warwick. It is supposed +that the "King Maker" fell close to the spot now marked by Hadley High +Stone. This obelisk was erected a little distance off in 1740; but was +removed nearer to what is now thought the right position. Montacute, +brother to Warwick, was slain at the same spot. + +BARNET, NEW, is a residential extension of High and East Barnet, being +situated between the two. Indeed, the whole of "Barnet" is now almost +merged into one; there being houses or shops almost from Hadley High +Stone to a little S. from Cat Hill. The Station Road is a wide pleasant +thoroughfare stretching from New Barnet Station, G.N.R., to the main +road from London to High Barnet. The whole district is excellent ground +for the student of modern domestic architecture, the examples of diverse +schools and styles being endless. The stretch of valley between the +railway and High Barnet, now largely built upon, is a new civil parish +called Barnet Vale. On a gentle slope in the centre, off Potter's Road, +stands the new Church of St. Mark, in which services have been held for +twenty-four years, but which is still incomplete. _Lyonsdown_, an +ecclesiastical district founded in 1869, is scattered over high ground +S.W. from the station; it is almost wholly comprised of detached +residences and is considered exceedingly healthy. There is here a good +view, overlooking the stretch of hill and dale towards Cockfosters, New +Southgate, and the Alexandra Palace. The Church of the Holy Trinity, +erected in 1864, is Dec. and contains fine lancet windows to W. C. M. +Plowden, killed in Abyssinia. There are N. and S. porches, good of their +kind, and the apsidal chancel is well designed. + +_Barwick Ford_ is on the river Rib, about 21/2 miles N.W. from Hadham and +3 miles S.W. from Standon Stations, G.E.R. + +_Bassett's Green_ (1 mile S.E. from Walkern Church) is a small hamlet +between Walkern Hall and Walkern Bury. There is no railway station +nearer than 5 miles, Buntingford, G.E.R., and Stevenage, G.N.R., being +each about that distance. + +_Batchworth_ is a hamlet close to Rickmansworth Station, L.&N.W.R., at +the N.W. extremity of Moor Park (_q.v._). + +_Batchworth Heath_, 11/2 mile S.E. from Rickmansworth, is on the Middlesex +border. + +_Batlers Green_ (3/4 mile from Radlett Church, and 1 mile S.W. from the +station, M.R.) is in a pretty district, but contains little more than a +few scattered cottages and farms. + +BAYFORD (3 miles S.W. from Hertford) is a parish and village on rising +ground, near the river Lea. It has a cruciform church, E.E. in design, +with facings of Kentish rag-stone, erected by W. R. Baker, Esq., in +1870-1. In the chancel are seven fine lancet windows of stained glass. +Note also (1) altar tomb and marble effigy to Sir George Knighton (d. +1612); (2) two palimpsest brasses, one bearing a figure in half-armour +and the other a figure in plate-armour and ring-mail skirt, of which the +age is conjectural; (3) the fine lich-gate. In the churchyard lies +William Yarrell, the great ornithologist (d. at Yarmouth, 1856). + +BAYFORDBURY stands in a beautiful park, famous for its fine cedars and +pines, a little N. from the village. It is the seat of the lord of the +manor, H. W. Clinton-Baker, Esq., J.P. The house was originally erected +by an ancestor of the present owner, about 1760. Here are the portraits +of most of the members of the Kit Cat Club, painted by Sir Godfrey +Kneller; the MS. of the first book of _Paradise Lost_, and a collection +of letters of great literary interest, were recently sold to America. + +_Bedmond_, or _Bedmont_, together with Sheppeys, forms a large hamlet 1 +mile N. from the village of Abbots Langley, and nearly 2 miles N.E. from +King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R. + +_Bedwell Plash_ is a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Stevenage. + +_Beeson's End_ is pleasantly situated near the S. extremity of Harpenden +Common, and about 13/4 mile nearly due E. from Redbourn Station, M.R. + +_Bell Bar_, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is near Brookman's +Park, and about 21/2 miles N. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R. +(Middlesex). + +_Bendish_ lies on high ground, 21/2 miles S.W. from St. Paul's Walden +(_q.v._). The nearest station is at Luton Hoo (Beds) about 4 miles S.W. + + +BENGEO (3/4 mile N. from Hertford) is a village between the rivers Beane +and Rib; Ware Park is close by (N.E.). It is now in the borough of +Hertford. The old church dedicated to St. Leonard, is Early Norman; +there are very few churches of older foundation in Hertfordshire. It was +restored at several times between 1884 and 1893. The bell in the wooden +cote bears date 1636; a small Norman arch divides the nave from the +chancel; there are lancets and a Perp. window in the apse. The monuments +are mostly to local gentry. Eric, seventh Baron Reay, is buried in the +tiny churchyard. The new church, erected on the hillside in 1855, is of +Kentish rag. There are terra-cotta panels by Tinworth in the reredos. +The walk from Bengeo to Hertford, past the sandy warren-hills, so +beautifully clad with fir, larch, etc., with the Lea winding through the +low meadows on the left, is one of the finest in the county. + +BENGEO (Rural) was formerly a part of the same parish as the above. Near +by, at Chapmore End, is the Hertford County Reformatory for boys. + +_Bennett's End_ is the name of two small hamlets, one near Leverstock +Green (_q.v._) and the other near Hemel Hempstead (_q.v._). + +BENNINGTON (41/2 miles N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) was once the +residence of Mercian kings. The village and neighbourhood are +picturesque; the roads from Walkern, Hertford and Knebworth meet where +a tiny triangular green is shaded by fine elms. The river Beane is 1 +mile to the W. The church is at the S. end of the village; it dates from +the fourteenth century. The nave is wide, with clerestory; the narrow +chancel has a chapel on the N. side. The tower is embattled, and +contains a ring of eight bells. There are triple sedilia, and stalls of +carved oak in the chancel; what was _once_ a holy water basin is in the +porch. Note also (1) the oaken rood-screen, surmounted by a large cross; +(2) the memorial to the Caesar family (1622-61); (3) the (supposed) tomb +of Sir John de Benstede (1432), a baron who sat in Parliament in the +time of Edward II., as we learn from Dugdale's _Monasticon_; (4) Carved +oak reredos. Near the churchyard a large house of red brick stands on +the site of the castle of the Benstedes, in ruins when Chauncy wrote two +centuries back. Bertulf, King of the Mercians, held a council here in +850. _Bennington Park_ (11/4 mile E.) is one of three deer parks in +Hertfordshire which figured in _Domesday Book_. + +BERKHAMPSTEAD (Great) an interesting town in the W. of the county, is +situated on the little river Bulbourne, and is chiefly famous as the +birthplace of William Cowper, who was born in the rectory on 26th +November, 1731. The Grammar School was founded by Dr. John Incent in +1541. The castle, of which there are still ruins close to the L.&N.W.R., +dates from before the Domesday Survey. Visitors must not expect to find +a castle here such as those at Carisbroke or Lewes. The ruins, although +of considerable extent, are fragmentary, and little more than the plan +of this stronghold can now be traced. The moats are double to the N.W., +but triple elsewhere. Henry II. held a court here; and the castle was at +times the residence of many monarchs, particularly Edward III. The Black +Prince was a visitor here during his father's reign. The Church of St. +Peter, on the N. side of the High Street, is by local authorities +claimed to be larger than any parish church in the county, saving only +St. Albans Abbey; but this distinction is also claimed for St. Mary's, +Hitchin. The original structure was of great antiquity, dating from +pre-Norman times; but it was wholly rebuilt early in the reign of Henry +III. There are chantry chapels on either side of each transept; that +called "St. John's Chantry" dates from about 1350. Among many other +features of interest note (1) fine groined roof of northern chantries; +(2) lancet windows in the chancel, containing fourteenth century glass; +(3) the E. window, a memorial to the poet Cowper; (4) tablet to Ann +Cowper, the poet's mother; (5) brass to John Raven, Esquire to the Black +Prince; (6) altar tomb to John Sayer, head cook to Charles II.; (7) +mosaic reredos; (8) altar tomb and effigies of Richard Torrington (d. +1356) and Margaret his wife, in N. transept. During the restoration of +this transept in 1881 a portion of an ancient arch was discovered. + +[Illustration: CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD] + +The Grand Junction Canal is close to the river Bulbourne, and partly for +this reason many small industries are pursued in the town, such as the +making of straw plait, scoops and shovels of various sorts, army +tent-pegs, etc. The present rectory is on a small hill near the church, +to the S. of the High Street; it stands on the site of the former house, +in which Cowper was born, and the old well-house, called "Cowper's +Well," may still be seen. There is a good library in the Mechanics' +Institute. The almshouses, for six widows, were founded in 1681, by the +John Sayer mentioned above. The Kings of Mercia are known to have +resided and held courts here; King Whithred summoned a council to meet +at _Berghamstedt_ in 697. + +BERKHAMPSTEAD, LITTLE (3 miles S. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.), has +a stone church erected early in the seventeenth century. It has a wooden +belfry and spire. The building was restored in 1856-7, but contains +little of architectural or historical interest. There are, however, +several memorials, notably the altar table in memory of Bishop Ken, born +in the parish in 1637. On a hill N.E. from the church stands the tall +red-brick observatory erected by John Stratton in 1789, in order, as it +is said, that from its summit he might watch his ships in the Thames. +The tower has been called "Stratton's Folly". + +_Bernard's Heath._ (See St. Albans.) + +_Betlow_ is a lordship of Long Marston (_q.v._) + +[Illustration: BISHOP'S STORTFORD] + +BISHOP'S STORTFORD is in the extreme E. of the county and on the Essex +border. It is an ancient town, deriving its name from the ford over the +river Stort, and from the fact that William I. gave the town to Maurice, +Bishop of London. It is famous for its Grammar School, at which the late +Cecil Rhodes, a native of the town, was educated. The site of Waytemore +Castle, built by William I., is on a mound near the road to Hockeril, +where a low, wide flint wall is partly surrounded by a moat. The church +of St. Michael on Windhill is Perp.; it was restored in 1859. There was +a former church on the same site; the present structure dates from say +1420-40. The nave has six bays; the tower is pinnacled and has a ring of +ten fine bells. Chauncy's book has an interesting paragraph about this +church. "Three Gylds and a Chantry were founded in this church; the Gyld +of St. Mary; the Gyld of St. Michael; and the Gyld of St. John Baptist; +to which, An. 1476, Elizabeth Spycere gave Legacies, _viz._, to the two +former 13s. 4d. a piece, to the last 40s. These Saints had their altars, +and St. Michael his Tabernacle, on which much Cost had been bestowed; +but the Chantry was founded in the time of Richard III. and the +Settlement thereof cost much Money." Chancel and nave are separated by a +screen of carved oak; the font (Norman) was discovered during the +restoration of the church; there is a piscina in the S. aisle. The +clerestory was added and the chancel restored in 1884; on the chancel +floor is a brass to Lady Margaret Denny (d. 1648), "a maid of honour in +ordinary for five years to Queen Elizabeth of blessed memory". There is +also a memorial to Sir George Duckett, Bart. (d. 1822), who increased +the facilities for the navigation of the Stort, which is now navigable +by barges to the town. A cattle sale is held every Thursday, which is +market-day. The trade in malt is still very large. We read that in old +times a cross was erected on each of the four roads leading from the +town. The main thoroughfares are still in the form of a cross; going +down Windhill the visitor will find a bridge over the Stort before him, +and a main street on either side. The town can boast several of the +finest old inns in Herts. + +BOREHAM WOOD (11/4 mile N.E. from Elstree) is a large and rather prettily +situated hamlet. + +_Bourne End_, 1 mile W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R., contains little +more than an inn, a coffee-room, and a few cottages standing beside the +Grand Junction Canal. + +BOVINGDON (21/2 miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station) is a large village, built +on the slopes of two hills, the centre of the village being in the +depression between them. The church dates from the end of the eleventh +century, but was rebuilt in 1846 in a Gothic style, with pinnacled W. +tower. Note (1) the effigy of an armoured knight under the tower, dating +from perhaps the middle of the fourteenth century; (2) brasses to the +Mayne family (1621-42). Some traces of a Roman encampment and villa are +shown on inquiry at a spot near the village. + +_Bowman's Green_ (1/4 mile N.E. from London Colney and 2 miles S. from +Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a tiny hamlet near the river Colne and the +high road from Barnet to St. Albans. + +BOXMOOR is a village about 11/2 mile S.W. from Hemel Hempstead. The Grand +Junction Canal flows between the village and the town. From the station, +L.&N.W.R., a motor car plies to and from Hemel Hempstead. Many Roman +remains have been found in the neighbourhood, particularly some remains +of two Roman villas, and many coins of the period of Diocletian. The +church, erected in 1874, is E.E. in design, and was planned by Mr. +Norman Shaw. It has N. and S. aisles and porches. There was an earlier +structure on the same site. Private residences are increasing so rapidly +that the place is now almost a suburb of Hemel Hempstead. + +_Boydon's Hill_ adjoins the village of Aldenham. + +_Bragbury End_ (11/4 mile E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +on the Great North Road. + +BRAMFIELD OR BRAINTFIELD (31/2 miles N.W. from Hertford Station, G.N.R.) +is a parish and village. The church is E.E., standing on the site of an +earlier edifice; the present tower and spire were built in 1840, and the +church itself restored in 1870. We learn from Matthew of Westminster +that Thomas Becket held the living here as his first charge; a pond near +the church is called "Becket's Pond". _Queen Hoo Hall_, N.W. from the +village, is now a farmhouse, but was formerly an Elizabethan residence, +and gave the title to a romance partly written by Sir Walter Scott. The +neighbourhood is pleasant, and a pretty stroll may be taken either N.E. +to Woodhall Park or S. to Panshanger Park. + +_Brandley Hill_ is 1 mile N.W. from Aston. + +BRAUGHING has a station 3/4 mile S.W. from the town, on the Buntingford +Branch of G.E.R. It is an ancient parish, the "Brachinges" of _Domesday +Book_, and was a Roman station. The church and few streets of which the +village consists are very picturesquely scattered on the S.W. slope of a +hill overlooking the river Quin, at the intersection of the Roman Ermine +Street and the road from Bishop's Stortford to Baldock. There was +formerly a market each week, dating from the reign of Stephen; also an +annual fair, abolished many years ago. The church, close to the +hand-bridge over the river, is largely Perp., and contains a few +brasses, none of which are important. It has been partially restored on +several occasions during the last eighty years, and some of the modern +workmanship is very good. Note (1) open tracery in carved oak screen; +(2) oak pulpit; (3) finely carved font of Caen stone; (4) old font +outside, near the tower. At _Cockhampstead_ (11/2 mile E. from the church) +was once an Augustinian priory. + +_Breachwood Green_ (about 31/2 miles N.E. from Luton Hoo Station, G.N.R., +and 1 mile S. from King's Walden Church) is a village on high ground +rather more than a mile from the Bedfordshire border. Pretty walks may +be taken S.E. to Bendish or S.W. to Chiltern Green. + +BRENT PELHAM (1 mile from Essex border and 5 miles E. from Buntingford) +is an interesting village, formerly called Burnt Pelham because, as +tradition states, both village and church were destroyed by fire during +the reign of Henry I. Traces of the fire existed in the days of Norden +(_circa_ 1548-1626). The church--near which the old stocks may still be +seen--is E.E., with the embattled western tower so frequent in Herts. It +is locally famous for a tomb in the N. wall, said to mark the +resting-place of one Piers Shonkes, a serpent slayer who lived in the +time of William I. The tomb bears some allegorical figures, which have +been the subject of diverse interpretations. _Pelham Hall_ (E. E. +Barclay, Esq.), "a slight but well contrived House in this Mannor, near +the Church," was built in 1620 by one Edward Newport. It was once owned +by the Floyers or Flyers, a family to whose memory there are several +memorials in the church. + +_Brickendon_ is now partly included in the borough of Hertford. There +are some imposing residences in the neighbourhood. + +BRICKET WOOD is almost exactly midway between St. Albans and Watford; +it consists of some cottages scattered around an extensive wood and +common, crossed by L.&N.W.R. The station is 1/2 mile from the "wood," +which is much frequented by picnic parties, school treats, etc. The +district is good ground for the field botanist and entomologist. + +_Broadfield_ (21/4 miles N.W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet near Cottered, +on the hill N. from that village. The hall was once a much larger +structure (engraved in Chauncy, vol. i.); it was in part rebuilt in +1882, but still retains a portion believed to date from the fifteenth +century. + +_Broadwater_ is a hamlet at the meeting of the roads from Stevenage, +Hatfield and Hertford. The nearest station is Knebworth (11/4 mile S.). + +_Broadway_ (11/2 mile S.E. from Berkhampstead) has a Dec. chapel-of-ease +to the parish church. It was erected in 1854. A short walk takes one to +the ruined chapel of St. Mary Magdalen on the Bucks border. + +_Bromley_ (11/2 mile S.E. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) is a small hamlet. + +_Broomin Green_ (3/4 mile S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +near the railway and 1/2 mile from the Six Hills. (See Stevenage.) + +[Illustration: BROXBOURNE CHURCH] + +BROXBOURNE, a large village near the river Lea and New River, is a +favourite fishing resort. The church stands on high ground overlooking +the mill-leat; it is a fine Perp. structure, dating from early in the +fifteenth century. The N. chancel-chapel was built by Sir William Say, +"in honor a ye Trenete the yere of our Lord God 1522"; his tomb is in +the chancel. The church was restored in 1857; the roof is of fine oak +panelling; the font, on eight pillars, is probably Early Norman. There +are brasses to a priest holding a chalice (_circa_ 1470); to another +priest in robes (_circa_ 1510); to Sir John Borrell, mace bearer to +Henry VIII. (d. 1521); to Sir John Say (d. 1478), and his wife (d. +1473). Note also (1) holy water basin near door; (2) marble effigies of +Sir Henry Cock (d. 1609), and his wife and family; (3) shield of arms in +centre of nave, with verses in English, bearing date 1630. From the +church a very picturesque walk may be taken through the village, to +Hoddesdon, by way of "Admiral's Walk," or beside the Lea past the +grounds of the Crown Hotel. _Broxbournebury_ (Major G. R. B. +Smith-Bosanquet, J.P.) is in the beautiful park, 1 mile W., and is a +large imposing mansion in Jacobean style. In Church Fields and on the +London Road are large rose-nurseries, producing an immense number of +roses yearly. The neighbourhood is one of the most pleasant in the +county. + +BUCKLAND (3 miles N. from Buntingford, on the Royston Road) has an E.E. +church, built by Nicholas de Bokeland in 1348. The piscina at the E. end +of the S. aisle marks the site of what was formerly the lady-chapel. The +font is very possibly anterior to the Conquest; it is a roughly hewn +mass of Barnack stone. The low window in the S. wall of the chancel was +opened out during some renovations, and is thought to have been +connected with a confessional, as a coloured figure of the Virgin was +discovered on the wall. The theory, however, may be dismissed as purely +mythical. There is a brass to William Langley, a rector of the church +(d. 1478); a low-relief medallion by Chantrey to William Anthony (d. +1819), and a brass to one of the Boteler family (1451). The interior was +restored in 1875; the new W. door, of oak, was added in 1881. + +_Buck's Hill_ (2 miles S.W. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a +pretty hamlet. The nearest parish church is about 11/4 mile N.E. at +Chipperfield (_q.v._). + +BULBOURNE, river. (See Introduction.) + +_Bull's Green_ is 21/4 miles N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R. + +_Bull's Mill_ is 21/2 miles N. from Hertford. + +BUNTINGFORD, a small town on the river Rib, on the Royston-Cambridge +Road, consists chiefly of the long High Street and of a few small +by-ways, E. by the river side, and W. on the roads to Aspenden and +Cottered. Standing across the High Street is the cruciform church of St. +Peter, built in 1614-26 as a chapel-of-ease to Layston (_q.v._). An old +brass tablet still preserved represents the holding of a Divine service +in the church before completion. There is also a portrait of Seth Ward +(see Aspenden); the almshouses a few yards W. were founded by him in +1684. "This town," wrote Chauncy, "is of small antiquity, for there is +no mention of it in Domesdei Book, neither can I find anything of it +before Anno. 21. Edwd. III., when that King did grant one Market every +Week, and one Fair every Year in Buntingford, to Elizabeth de Burgo and +her Heirs, reserving the Yearly Rent of 6d." At the N. end of High +Street is the old pound. _Corney Bury_ (1/2 mile N.) is a fine old manor +house. Little of historic importance is to be gleaned in the town, but a +ramble from end to end is interesting by reason of the many quaint inns +and cottages, of all ages and styles, which meet the eye at every turn. + +_Burnham Green_ is a hamlet 11/4 mile N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R. + +_Bury Green_ (11/2 mile W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a small +hamlet near Theobald's Park; also + +_Bury Green_, a hamlet 21/2 miles W. from Bishop's Stortford. + +_Bury Hill and Bury Mill._ (See Hemel Hempstead.) + +_Bury Stede._ (See Hexton.) + +_Bush Barrow_ is 11/4 mile N. from Wallington, on Metley Hill, midway +between the village and the Icknield Way. + +BUSHEY is a large village, now practically the S.E. suburb of Watford. +The station (L.&N.W.R.) is in the hollow between the village itself and +High Street, Watford; cyclists must be careful of the descent towards +that town. Near the centre of the village is a small green and pond, and +here stands the partly Dec. church of St. James, rebuilt in 1871 by Sir +Gilbert Scott. The E.E. window, triple lancet, is to the memory of +Edwards Marjoribanks of the Hall (d. 1879) and his wife. Silas Titus, +whose name is remembered for his supposed authorship of the notorious +pamphlet _Killing noe Murder_, was born at Bushey and buried in this +church; there is a headstone to his daughter in the graveyard. + +BUSHEY HEATH (1 mile S.E. from the above) is on the Middlesex border. It +is now an ecclesiastical district, formed in 1889; the church, an E.E. +brick structure, dates from 1838; the porches were added in 1882. The +district is very healthy. + +_Bushey, Little_, is E. from Bushey Heath, which it almost joins. + +_Bushey Mill_ is on the river Colne, 3/4 mile N.E. from Watford Junction. + +_Butchery Green._ (See Hertford.) + +BYGRAVE (13/4 mile N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.) has a small church +built of clunch from the Ashwell pits near by. It dates from perhaps +1320. Note (1) octagonal font (about 1420-40), (2) slab on floor to a +former rector, a Huguenot (d. 1725), and (3) the piscina in chancel. +Close by, at the Manor House, are the remains of some moats constructed +five centuries ago by the resident knight, Sir John Thornbury, because +of the many marauders that infested the neighbourhood. The place was +once a market-town; the market, granted by Henry III., was held each +Monday. The village lies on high ground, a few minutes' walk N. from the +Icknield Way. + +CALDECOTE (about 3 miles N.N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.) has a +Perp. church of rubble, containing a few memorials, a very finely +canopied holy water basin, and a font dating from, say, 1480. + +_Caldicot Hill_ is 1 mile E. from Bushey Heath, on the Middlesex border. + +CASSIOBURY PARK. (See Watford.) + +_Catlip_ is a hamlet near Chorley Wood Station, Met.R. + +_Chandler's Cross_ (21/2 miles S.W. from King's Langley Station, +L.&N.W.R.) is a small hamlet. + +_Chapmore End_ is 21/2 miles N. from Hertford. + +_Chelsing_ is near the river Rib, 3 miles N. from Ware. + +_Cherry Green_ (1 mile S.W. from West Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a small +hamlet. + +CHESHUNT, according to Grose's _Antiquities_, the _Durolitum_ of +Antoninus, is a large parish which contains much of interest. Its +ancient names, Cestre, Ceaster, Cestrehunt, leave little doubt that it +was a Roman station.[3] At Roman Urn Inn, near the station, G.E.R., is +an urn imbedded in the wall; it was discovered close by some years ago, +and is probably of Roman manufacture. Cheston, yet another old name of +this spot, has been thought to be derived from the chestnut trees once +plentiful in the neighbourhood, of which many of the houses were built. +William I. gave the manor to Alan the Red, Earl of Brittany, and it +remained an appendage to that earldom for a long time. Edward III. +granted a weekly market to be held in the town every Monday. The Church +of St. Mary the Virgin was built in 1420 by Nicholas Dixon, who held the +living of Cheshunt for thirty years. It is Perp., entirely embattled; +the W. tower has an octagonal cupola. Restoration was carefully effected +during 1872-4, under Mr. G. F. Bodley. The rood-screen, lectern and +pulpit are of carved oak, all comparatively new. The memorials are very +numerous; amongst them may be noted (1) brass on chancel floor to the +above-mentioned Nicholas Dixon (d. 1448); (2) brass to William Pyke (d. +1449); (3) two female effigies, 1500-20; (4) altar tomb in chancel to +Robert Dacres, Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. There are windows of +stained glass to a former vicar (d. 1858); to General Miles (d. 1860), +and, in the tower, to one Robert Archer, for thirty-six years parish +clerk. N. from the main street, near the river Lea, stood a small +Benedictine nunnery. It originally belonged to the Canons of Cathele, +but Henry III. turned them out and gave the property and rights to the +"Prioress and Nuns of Cesthont". The college, a famous institution, +stands near the church; it was founded in 1768 by Selina, Countess of +Huntingdon, at Trevecca, near Talgarth, S. Wales, and removed to +Cheshunt after her death. A few years ago it was bought by the Church of +England, for use as a theological college. Close by, too, is the site of +Pengelly House, once the home of Richard Cromwell. Cheshunt Park (1 mile +N.) is full of memories of the Cromwells and the Russells. The Great +House, near Church Gate, was one of the many residences of Cardinal +Wolsey. Both the house and the moat are still preserved. + +[Footnote 3: Chauncy writes: "This Vill in old Records was called +Cestrehunt, from Castrum in the Latin, which might, in all Probability, +import some castle erected here by the Romans; and the Saxons imitating +the name, though corruptly ... might from hence call it Cestrehunt".] + +CHESS, river. (See Introduction.) + +_Cheverell's Green_ (11/2 mile N.W. from Flamstead, and about 4 miles N.W. +from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet and green adjoining +Beechwood Park. + +_Childwick Green_ is 1 mile S. from Harpenden Common, and 21/2 miles N. +from St. Albans. + +CHIPPERFIELD (21/2 miles W. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) was +made an ecclesiastical parish in 1863. The small church on the common, +E.E. in style, built in 1837, is of little interest. There is a good +lich-gate at the N. entrance to the churchyard. The neighbourhood is +pleasant and varied. + +_Chipping_ (2 miles N. from Buntingford) is a small village on the +Royston Road. + +_Chivesfield (or Chesfield)_ is 2 miles N.E. from Stevenage Station, +G.N.R. It is locally famous for its ruined church. One John Wykins +was rector here as early as 1323. The windows were partly destroyed in +1642. Some interesting memorials were extant in Chauncy's day, and are +mentioned in the second volume of his _Antiquities_. + +[Illustration: CHORLEY WOOD COMMON] + +CHORLEY WOOD, a village 21/2 miles N.W. from Rickmansworth, has a station +on the Met.R. near the Amersham Road. The church, E.E. in style, dates +from 1845, but was largely rebuilt in 1870. William Penn, the Quaker, +was married here. There are many pretty walks through the Valley of the +Chess, which flows between the village and Sarratt (_q.v._). + +_Church End_ is a small hamlet in the parish of Albury, 3 miles E. from +Braughing Station, G.E.R. + +_Clapgate_, a hamlet on the river Ash, is close to Church End. + +_Clay End_ (11/2 mile S.E. from Walkern) is about equidistant--5 +miles--from Stevenage or Westmill Stations. + +_Clay Hill_ is on the high road between Bushey and Bushey Heath +(_q.v._). + +CLOTHALL (21/4 miles S.E. from Baldock) has an interesting church, chiefly +Perp., on a gentle hill. There is a good brass in the chancel to John +Vynter, first rector of the church (d. 1404), and one to John Wright, +Master of Trinity College, Cambridge, also rector here (d. 1519). On the +S. of the church is a small Dec. chantry chapel. Note also a sixteenth +century brass to the wife and sixteen children of William Bramfield of +Clothall. The Saxons are said to have called the spot Cley Hall, because +it stood on a hill of clay. Clothall Bury is a little to the E. + +_Cockernhoe Green_ is 21/2 miles S.W. from Offley, and 21/2 miles N.E. from +Luton Station (Beds). + +_Cockhampstead_ (2 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) is near +Albury Hall. + +CODICOTE (3 miles N.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) is a large village +on the Welwyn-Hitchin Road, with a pleasant heath a little W. The Church +of St. Giles is an ancient structure, E.E., restored in 1853; it stands +in a field 1/2 mile N. from the village. The S. chapel dates from 1312. +The embattled W. tower is a fine structure. There are several memorial +windows, comparatively modern. + +COLE GREEN has a station on the G.N.R. branch line from Hatfield to +Hertford. From the station little is to be seen except the Cowper's Arms +and a few cottages. + +_Coleman's Green_ (11/2 mile S.E. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.) is +prettily situated near the "Devil's Dyke" and Brocket Hall. John Bunyan +sometimes preached in a cottage here; a large chimney-stack, bearing an +inscription, still marks the spot, unless quite recently removed. + +_Collier's End_ is on high ground, on the Old North Road, 2 miles S.W. +from Standon Station, G.E.R. It is a very typical English hamlet. + +COLNE, river. (See Introduction.) + +COLNEY HEATH (1 mile S. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is an +ecclesiastical parish. The brick church (1844) is in Byzantine style; it +has an apsidal chancel, and small N. porch and tower. The new West Herts +County Asylum is close by. + +COLNEY STREET, on the main road from Radlett to St. Albans, forms an +almost equilateral triangle with Park Street and Bricket Wood Stations, +L.&N.W.R. It is only a few minutes' walk from the pretty church at +Frogmore (_q.v._). + +_Common Moor_ may be visited from Croxley Green (3/4 mile N.E. from +Rickmansworth) for an inspection of its large paper mill. + +_Cooter's End_ is a tiny hamlet close to the M.R. on the Bedfordshire +border. + +_Corey's Mill_, a hamlet 1 mile N. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R., is +named from an old mill, burnt in 1878. + +COTTERED (3 miles W. from Buntingford) has a fine old church (Perp.). +There is a chapel on the N. side of the chancel erected by Edward +Pulter; the W. tower is embattled and carries a lofty spire. Several +memorials to the Pulter and Forester families are of the seventeenth +century. The church was restored in 1886. In the days of William I. the +_vill_ of Chodrei belonged to Walchelin, Bishop of Winchester. _Cottered +Lordship_, a farmhouse near the village, is one of the very oldest +dwellings in the county. The writer is assured by an expert that the +front door dates from 1450-80! + +_Cromer_, a hamlet 5 miles S.W. from Buntingford, is prettily situated +in a valley, in a purely agricultural district. + +_Cromer Hyde_ (11/2 mile S. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) consists of a +farmhouse, the Chequer's Inn, and a few old and picturesque cottages. +The nearest church is 1/2 mile S.E. at the corner of Brocket Hall Park. + +_Croxley Green_ (3/4 mile N.E. from Rickmansworth) is an ecclesiastical +parish near the river Chess. The church, built fifty years ago, is late +E.E. in style and has some good memorial windows. + +_Cuffley_ is a small hamlet about midway between Cheshunt and Potter's +Bar (Middlesex) Stations, but a little N. from the straight line. The +Church of St. James at Goff's Oak (_q.v._) is 1 mile E. + +_Cumberlow Green_ is 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford. + +_Currants Bottom_, on the Bucks border, is close to Chorley Wood +Station, Met.R. + +_Dane End_, or Munden Street, is 4 miles S.W. from Standon Station, +G.E.R. The nearest church (1/2 mile N.) is at Little Munden. + +_Dane End_, 4 miles S. from Royston, is close to the Old North Road. +There are a few cottages and two farms. + +_Dassells_ is a hamlet on the Old North Road, 1 mile E. from Westmill +Station, G.E.R. The little river Quin flows close by. + +DATCHWORTH (11/2 mile S.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) has a church +with some Norman portions. Its spire is conspicuous for miles round. The +larger portion is, however, Dec. Note (1) some good stained glass +windows in chancel; (2) chalice dated 1630. The church was restored in +1869-70. The place is very ancient; we read that four hides of land at +_Decewyrth_ were granted by an early Saxon king to the Monastery of St. +Peter at Westminster, and that in the reign of Edward III. Thomas de la +Mere, Abbot of St. Albans, transferred the patronage of this church to +the king. + +_Dean End_ (3/4 mile S. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet. + +_Delamore End_ is 1/2 mile E. from Flamstead, and near the high road to +Dunstable. The nearest railway station is Redbourn, 21/2 miles S.E. + +_Digswell_, a village on the river Maran, is 1/2 mile S.W. from Welwyn +Station, G.N.R. Looking E. the visitor will notice the Great Northern +Viaduct over the Maran Valley--a truly magnificent structure of forty +arches. The church, beautifully situated on the hill, is[h] E.E. It +contains a large but much mutilated brass to John Perient, Master of the +Horse to Joan of Navarre and Esquire to Richard II., Henry IV. and Henry +V. This interesting inscription being much defaced I will transcribe +from Chauncy: "Hic jacet Johannes Perient, Armiger pro corpore Regis +Richardi Secundi, et Penerarius ejusdem Regis, et Armiger. Regis Henrici +Quarti, et Armiger etiam Regis Henrici Quinti et Magister Equitum +Johannae, filiae Regis Navarr, et Regiae Angliae qui obiit--et Johanna uxor +ejus quondam capitalis Domicilla--quae obiit 24 Aprilis Anno Dom. 1415." +Note also brasses (1) to John Perient, son of the above (d. 1442); (2) +William Robert, auditor of the diocese of Winchester (d. 1484); (3) to a +civilian, his wife, and ten children (_circa_ 1530); (4) to Thomas +Hoore, a mercer of London, his wife, and twelve children. The church was +restored in 1872. + +_Digswell Water_ is a hamlet 1/2 mile E. from Digswell Church, and close +to Welwyn Station. + +_Down Green_ is 1/2 mile W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R. + +_Driver's End_, a hamlet 2 miles W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R., is +on the S.W. confines of Knebworth Park. One mile S. is the village of +Codicote. The neighbourhood is very pleasant. + +_Dudswell_, a few cottages on the Grand Junction Canal, is 1/2 mile N.W. +from Northchurch village, and 2 miles N.W. from Berkhampstead Station, +L.&N.W.R. + +_East End_ (1 mile S.E. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.) is between +Panshanger Park and the River Lea. There is also a hamlet of the same +name on the Essex border, about 5 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, +G.E.R. + +EASTWICK (1 mile N.W. from Burnt Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a parish near +the Essex border, on the river Stort. The church, rebuilt in 1873, is in +E.E. style. It is locally famous for its recumbent statue of a knight in +chain armour, resting on a raised slab; the legs are crossed. There is +neither date nor name; but it has been surmised (1) that the crossing of +the legs shows that he was probably a crusader, (2) that the effigy +dates from early in the thirteenth century and represents a member of +the De Toni or De Ros family. The former conjecture is undoubtedly +erroneous. There is a piscina in the chancel. + +ELSTREE, formerly Idlestree, is a large village beautifully situated on +the Middlesex border; the station (M.R.) is to the N.E. at Boreham Wood. +At the N. end of the street a fine view stretches in the direction of +Radlett and St. Albans. The Church of St. Nicholas was founded by the +Benedictine monks of St. Albans in the fourteenth century; the present +structure is Dec. and dates from 1853. The monuments are unimportant; +but the wrought-iron chancel screen, designed by Sir A. W. Blomfield, is +worthy of careful scrutiny, as is also the vestry screen of carved oak. +The five-light E. window was presented by the pupil of a former rector, +John Morris, D.D. (d. 1848), to whom it is a memorial. In the old +churchyard, closed some years ago, was buried the notorious robber and +reputed murderer William Weare, who was murdered by Thurtell on Gill's +Hill, 21/2 miles N.W., in 1823. Here, too, was buried Martha Reay, whose +life was a chronicle of crime; she was mistress to the Earl of Sandwich, +and was killed on leaving Covent Garden Theatre, in 1779. There is +excellent fishing to be had at Elstree Reservoir, a little W., in +Aldenham parish. Some archaeologists have thought that the Roman city +_Sulloniacae_ occupied (approximately) the site on which Elstree stands, +and Norden lent his authority to this hypothesis; but there is little +doubt that Brockley Hill near Edgware more closely corresponds in +position with the city mentioned in the _Itinerary_ of Antoninus. + +_Epping Green_, a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Little Berkhampstead, is at +the N. end of Punsborne Park. The nearest station is Cole Green +(G.N.R.), nearly 4 miles N.W. + +ESSENDON is a pretty village on rising ground overlooking the Valley of +the Lea, 2 miles S. from Cole Green Station. The church, standing in the +park, was rebuilt in 1883; it was probably founded as early as the +twelfth century. It is now of flint, dressed with ancaster stone. Note +(1) alabaster monument to William Priestly (d. 1664); (2) brass and +effigy of William Tooke, auditor of the Court of Wards and Liveries (d. +1588); (3) shields from the tomb of Henry Courtenay, son of Henry, +Marquess of Exeter; (4) chalice bearing date 1570, given to the church +by Elizabeth Reynes; (5) Baskerville Bible presented by the First +Marquess of Salisbury. During restoration several slabs to the Tooke +family (1635-55) were discovered. _Essendon Place_ (David Citroen, Esq.) +is a fine house in a park of 100 acres; and _Bedwell Park_ (C. G. +Arbuthnot, Esq.) should be visited, by special permission, to view the +Belvedere Collection, including one of Murillo's many "Assumptions". + +_Exnells_, near the river Ash, is a small hamlet 2 miles N.E. from +Hadham Station, G.E.R. + +_Fanham Hall_ is 1 mile N.E. from Ware. + +_Fisher's Green_ (1/2 mile N.W. from Stevenage) is a small hamlet. + +_Flamstead_ (21/2 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) lies on high +ground near the river Ver. The name is a corruption of Verlamstead, the +river having formerly been called the "Verlam". The church is in the +centre of the village; it is a large Dec. structure dating from the +fourteenth century; the nave is of six bays, with fine octagonal +pillars. The tower is very large and massive. Note (1) piscina in W. +wall of vestry, once a chapel; (2) piscina in chancel; (3) finely carved +oak chancel screen, dating from fifteenth century but restored in 1893; +(4) mutilated altar-tomb in nave, carved and crocketted, but bearing no +inscription, it is probably not later than 1400-20; (5) marble monument, +with Ionic columns, to Thomas Saunders of Beechwood; (6) brass to John +Oudeby, rector of the church (d. 1414); (7) effigy in armour to Sir +Bartholomew Fouke, Kt., for many years Master of the Household to Queen +Elizabeth (d. 1604). At _Beechwood Park_, so called because of the many +fine beeches in the neighbourhood, was once a Benedictine Nunnery. The +walk from Flamstead to Great Gaddesden, by way of Beechwood Park (about +6 miles), is very picturesque. + +_Flamstead Bury_ is 1 mile W. from Redbourn Station, M.R., and midway +between the N. end of the village and a spot called Heaven's Gate. + +_Flamstead End_ (11/2 mile N.W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a +considerable hamlet. + +_Flaunden_ (4 miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a village +and parish on the Bucks border, with the river Chess 11/4 mile S. The +present church is modern, and local folk claim that it is the first +built by the late Sir Gilbert Scott. The font, and a few tiles, etc., +were brought here from the old church at Flaunden Bottom near Chenies, +some ruins of which still remain. Chauncy tells us that Flaunden +belonged to the manor of Hemel Hempstead, that it was granted to one +Thomas Flaunden, who built a small church in the valley near the river +(Chess) with a small tower of timber at the W. end. Spiritual offices +were performed by a curate supplied from Hemel Hempstead, who served +Bovingdon and Flaunden by turns as duty required. + +_Folly, The_ (a small hamlet 1 mile N.W. from Wheathampstead Station, +G.N.R.), is passed on the way to Harpenden or Mackery End. A little +farther W. is Batford Mill on the river Lea. + +_Frithsden_ (or _Friesden_), a hamlet 2 miles N.E. from Great +Berkhampstead, stands in a beautiful district, with Ashridge Park to the +N.W. The nearest church is at the pretty village of Nettleden (_q.v._) +1/2 mile N.E. High Park Road, Evesden Wood, Marigold Wood, Holly Bush Wood +and Frithsden copses are all adjacent and may be visited during an +hour's ramble. + +FROGMORE (3/4 mile S.E. from Park Street Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a hamlet +between the villages of Park Street and Colney Street. The church is +modern, in late Norman style; it stands close to the high road from +Radlett to St. Albans. There are several memorial windows to local +persons. The village flower show has been held for many years in July, +and is well patronised and widely known. The river Colne flows between +this hamlet and Park Street Station. + +FURNEAUX PELHAM (4 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) has an +interesting E.E. and Perp. church. One of the six bells in the embattled +W. tower dates from before the Reformation; it bears, in black-letter, +the words "Sancta Katarina ora pro nobis"; upon the clock in the tower +are the words: "Time flies. Mind your business." Note (1) piscina and +sedilia in chancel; (2) piscina in each aisle; (3) Newport Chapel +adjoining S. aisle, built by the Robert Newport whose brass and effigy +is in the nave (d. 1518); (4) brass (mutilated) in chapel, representing +two figures, _temp._ Richard II.; (5) ambry (lancet headed) in chancel; +(6) three ancient stone coffins, discovered during restoration, one +bearing the words: "Simonis de Furneaux Filius". The De Furneaux were a +Norman family, to whom the village owes its name: Simon de Furneaux was +lord of the manor in the reign of Edward I. Close to the church is +_Furneaux Pelham Hall_ (recently unoccupied), a fine Elizabethan mansion +whose owners suffered several misfortunes during the civil wars. + +GADDESDEN, GREAT (3 miles N.W. from Hemel Hempstead), is a village on +the river Gade at the foot of the hill that leads to Nettleden. The +church is close to the river side, and immediately behind the _Cock and +Bottle Inn_. It is an ancient structure of "Roman bricks" and flint +(E.E.), believed to date from, say, 1290; the tower was rebuilt in 1862. +There are many memorials to the Halsey family, but few others of any +interest. _Gaddesden Place_, in a park 1/2 mile E., is the seat of Rt. +Hon. T. F. Halsey, Esq., D.L., J.P. It was built from designs by Wyatt, +in 1774, in an Italian style. + +GADDESDEN, LITTLE (4 miles N. from Berkhampstead Station, L.&N.W.R.), is +a straggling village on the confines of Ashridge Park. Pretty cottages +and tastefully planned gardens meet the eye everywhere. The church is +Perp. and contains many monuments to the Egerton family, Earls of +Bridgewater: (1) Sir John Egerton, Kt. (d. 1649); (2) Lady Frances, +Countess of Bridgewater (d. 1635); (3) John, Viscount Brackley, Lord of +the Privy Council (d. 1686); (4) Elizabeth, Countess of Bridgewater, a +"transcendently virtuous lady" of "beauty so unparallel'd that 'tis as +much beyond the art of the most elegant pen, as it surpasseth the skill +of several of the most exquisite pencils ... to describe and not +disparage it" (d. 1663); (5) Ann, Lady Egerton (d. 1625); (6) Francis, +third Duke of Bridgewater (d. 1803). The latter was styled the Father of +British Inland Navigation; and the tall column near Ashridge Park, 13/4 +mile W. from the church, was erected to his memory in 1832. + +_Gaddesden Green_ is practically one with the above, the marble cross +and fountain to the memory of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888) being between +the village and the Green. Gaddesden Hoe is 2 miles E. from the S. end +of the Green. + +_Gaddesden Row_ (3 miles N. from Hemel Hempstead Station, M.R.) is a +straggling hamlet equidistant (about 2 miles) from Flamstead and Great +Gaddesden. + +GADE, river. (See Introduction.) + +_Gallows Hill_ (1/2 mile S. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a +hamlet. The Booksellers' Provident Retreat is here. It is also the name +of a hill between Hertford and Ware, on which stands the Joint Isolation +Hospital for the two towns. + +_Gannock Green_ is 21/2 miles S. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R. The nearest +church is at Sandon. Gannock Farm is 1/2 mile E. + +_Gardener's End_ (31/2 miles W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet in the +parish of Ardeley. + +_Garston_ is 11/4 mile S.W. from Bricket Wood Station, L.&N.W.R. + +_Gibraltar_, on the road from Harpenden to Luton, is on the Bedfordshire +border, close to Luton Hoo Park and Station, G.N.R. + +GILSTON (2 miles N. from Burnt Hill Station (Essex) and about 2 miles +S.E. from Widford village) is a scattered parish. Chauncy says it was +probably waste ground at the time of the Conquest, as there is no +mention of it in _Domesday Book_. The church was very probably erected +by Geoffrey de Magnaville, who was Earl of Essex and Lord of the Manor +of Sabriesword (Sawbridgeworth) during the reign of Stephen. It is E.E. +and stands on the hill about 1/4 mile N. from the Park. There is a fine +double piscina in the chancel, and some heraldic glass in the windows, +showing the coats of Astley, Bassett, Eastfield and Engayne. The +monuments to the Gore family are numerous; amongst those buried in the +church are (1) Sir John Gore, Kt. (d. 1659); he was twice sheriff of the +county, and a member of Cromwell's second Protectorate Parliament; (2) +Dame Dorothy Gore (Kempe), second wife to the foregoing (d. 1645); (3) +Dame Persis, wife to Sir Humphrey Gore, Kt. (d. 1665); (4) in +churchyard, John, eldest son of the said Sir Humphrey (d. 1691). The +Feathers, a fine old inn (_circa_ 1680), still stands in this village; +an excellent photograph of it was reproduced in the _Home Counties +Magazine_ (Oct. 1901). _Gilston Park_, beautiful but not very extensive, +should be visited; for the mansion (A. S. Bowlby, Esq., M.A., J.P., +etc.) stands near the site of _New Place_, successively the home of the +Chauncys, Gores and Plumers. The house was enlarged and beautified by +Sir Humphrey Gore, who was knighted at Whitehall in 1660. In 1701 it +passed into the hands of Col. John Plumer, whose family is so well known +to readers of the _Essays of Elia_. It was his grandson William (d. +1822) whom Lamb calls "a fine old Whig". This William left no family, so +the house at Gilston Park and his other house, the famous "Blakesmoor in +H----shire" of Lamb's essay, passed to his widow (and cousin) Jane +Hamilton, a daughter of Hon. George Hamilton, Canon of Windsor. + +_Goff's Oak_ (21/2 miles W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet +which owes its name to the fine oak, a part of which still stands near +the Goff's Oak Inn at the S. extremity of Cheshunt Common. + +GORHAMBURY. (See St. Albans.) + +_Gosmore_ (2 miles S.W. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.) is a small +village. The nearest church is at Ippollitts (_q.v._). + +_Gossoms End_ is on the road from Berkhampstead to Tring, 1/4 mile S.E. +from Northchurch. + +GRAVELEY (11/2 mile N.E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a village off +the Great North Road. By walking from Stevenage towards Little +Wymondley[i] a pretty view over Graveley may be obtained from a gateway +near some cottages on the right. The ancient church of brick and flint +is late Norman with embattled tower; it was restored in 1886-7. The +carved oak chancel-screen is ancient; there are windows of stained glass +to the memory of local rectors. The present N. aisle was added during +restoration. The manor of Graveley is of great antiquity; it was given +by William I. to William, Earl of Ewe. Graveley is perhaps Saxon for +"the Reeve's land," and Norden thinks the place took its name from a +Reeve of the county in pre-Norman times. Near the village a beacon was +employed "once upon a time" to give warning of the approach of enemies. +One mile N. from the church is Jack's Hill, once the haunt of a robber, +"Jack o' legs," the hero of many a legend known in the district. His +grave is shown in Weston churchyard, 2 miles E. from Jack's Hill. + +_Gravesend_ (31/2 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet +on the road from Little Hadham to Furneaux Pelham. Albury church is 1 +mile S. + +_Green End_ is the name of three hamlets, (1) in the parish of Little +Munden, about 4 miles W. from Standon Station; (2) in the parish of +Sandon, about 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station (both stations +G.E.R.); (3) 1/2 mile N. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R. + +_Green Street._--There are two hamlets of this name in Herts, (1) 21/2 +miles N.W. from Bishop's Stortford; (2) 11/2 mile N.E. from Boreham Wood +Station (M.R.). + +_Green Tye_ is 11/2 mile N.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R. + +_Grub's Barn_ (2 miles S.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) consists of a +farmhouse and several cottages on open breezy ground between Hatfield +and Tewin. + +_Grub's Lane_ is near the outskirts of Hatfield Park, 3 miles S.E. from +the town. + +_Gubblecot_ (3 miles N.W. from Tring) is near the Aylesbury Canal. The +Tring reservoirs, famous for the rare waterfowl shot on those waters on +many occasions, are a little to the S. + +_Gustard Wood_ (1 mile N. from Wheathampstead Station G.N.R.) may be +visited for its golf links, of which there are few in the county. + +HADHAM (GREAT or MUCH) is an ancient village and parish near the river +Ash. The station, G.E.R., is 11/4 mile S.W. We read that the Manor was +given by King Edgar to the Bishops of London, several of whom have +resided at the old manor house. Katherine, mother of Henry VI. and wife +of Owen Tudor, gave birth to a son here, known as Edmund of Hadham. The +church of St. Andrew, near the river, is E.E., dating from about 1300. +It has been much altered and restored. The very fine S. porch is thought +to be the work of Bishop Kemp (1459-89); the massive, embattled W. tower +is probably by Bishop Braybroke (_circa_ 1400). Note (1) floriated cross +and inscription to Simon Flambard, Rector of Hadham Magna in 1331, and +chaplain to Edward III.; (2) brass to one Alban, also rector here (d. +1372); (3) monument in chancel to Judith Aylmer, widow of John Aylmer, +Bishop of London (d. 1618); (4) fourteenth-century glass in E. window, +a memorial to Thomas Randolph, a recent rector; (5) three brasses in +nave to members of the Newce family (1579-1610); (6) fine oak chancel +screen; (7) two piscinae in chancel. The old House, or Palace, dated from +about 1400. Close to the village (S.W.) lies _Moor Park_, which readers +or tourists must not confound with Moor Park, Rickmansworth (_q.v._). +The present mansion dates from about 1780; its predecessor was an +Elizabethan structure, once the property of Sir John Gore, Kt. (see +Gilston), and previously of Sir Garratt Harvey, in whose day Archbishop +Usher was a guest at "Moore Place". At _Perry Green_, 1 mile E. from +Hadham Station, is a chapel-of-ease, in E.E. style, erected in 1853. +_Hadham Cross_ is beautifully situated in the valley, S. from the +village and partly hidden among trees. + +_Hadham Ford_ (3 miles E. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) is on the river +Ash, 1 mile S.W. from + +HADHAM (LITTLE) formerly Hadham Parva. The parish enjoys considerable +historic importance through its connection with the Capel family, Earls +of Essex. The present earl owns large properties in the neighbourhood, +and has the title of Baron of Hadham. The church stands between the +village and the river, and is widely known for its fine S. porch of +timber, which it possibly owes to the proximity of Essex, in which +county such porches are comparatively common. The building is mostly +E.E., probably late twelfth century, but the tower, embattled and +pinnacled, is Perp. (_circa_ 1380). Note (1) brass to Rd. Waren, a +rector of Great Hadham (_circa_ 1470); (2) brass to a knight, his wife +and daughters (_circa_ 1485); (3) Perp. chancel screen of oak; (4) on S. +side of chancel, memorial stone to "Arthur Lord Capel, Baron of Hadham, +who was murder'd for his loyalty to King Charles the First, March the +9th, 1648". This was the Lord Capel whose heart was preserved in a +silver box and given to Charles II. at the Restoration, the earl having +wished his heart to be "buried with his master". The chancel was +restored by Sir A. W. Blomfield in 1885. _Hadham Hall_ (1/2 mile E. from +the church) is late Elizabethan, and has a magnificent corridor +extending the entire length of the house (135 feet) with finely +mullioned windows. _Little Hadham Place_ (1/2 mile W. from the church) is +prettily situated. The manor of Hadham Parva formed part of the revenue +of Saxon Kings until King Edgar gave it to the monks of Ely. + +HAILEYBURY COLLEGE (2 miles S.E. from Hertford) was founded at Hertford +in 1805 as the training college of the East India Company. It is now one +of our most famous public schools. The house, conspicuous from the S.E., +stands on high ground, and commands beautiful views over the valley of +the Lea, and, looking S.E., the neighbourhood of Epping Forest. Note (1) +the noble chestnut avenue towards the W. entrance; (2) the great size of +the quadrangle; (3) the beautifully decorated chapel (by A. W. +Blomfield), surmounted by a lofty dome; (4) the library, containing some +good portraits of former masters, one of which, Canon Bradby, was +painted by Herkomer. + +_Hall's Green_ (4 miles N.E. from Stevenage) is on the hillside, 1 mile +S.E. from Weston church. A little farther S. note the fine view over +Cromer and Cottered, with windmill to the left. + +_Hammond Street_ is between Cheshunt Common and Flamstead End. The +nearest Station is Cheshunt, G.E.R., 21/2 miles S.E. + +_Hammond's End_, on the outskirts of Rothamstead Park, is in the centre +of the pleasant varied scenery between the M.R. and the St. +Albans-Dunstable road. The nearest station is Redbourn, 11/4 mile S.W. + +_Handside (Upper and Lower)_ is the name of two hamlets in Lemsford +parish, both near Brocket Hall Park. Hatfield (about 3 miles S.) is the +nearest station, G.N.R. + +HARE STREET.--There are two places in the county bearing this name: (1) +a small hamlet partly in Ardeley and partly in Cottered parish; (2) a +large village on the Cambridge Road, 2 miles E. from Buntingford. The +village has several quaint old cottages, and is by no means +unpicturesque; but it contains little of historic importance. It +affords, however, a good centre from which to visit several old and +interesting churches (described elsewhere in these pages); Layston, +Wyddial, Anstey, and Great and Little Hormead being all within a short +walk. + +_Harmer Green_ (1/2 mile N.E. from Welwyn Station) is a small hamlet N. +from the Maran Valley. + +HARPENDEN is well worth a visit and may be easily reached from St. +Pancras (24 miles), or from King's Cross by changing at Hatfield. +Visitors wishing to inspect the church, or to ramble through the large +village, beautifully situated at the N. end of Harpenden Common, should +be careful not to choose the day of the annual races, the Friday before +Epsom week. The church was rebuilt (except the tower) in 1862, in E. +Dec. style; prior to 1859 the old structure had been a chapel-of-ease to +Wheathampstead (3 miles E.). It probably dated from say 1140 (_temp._ +Stephen) and was originally cruciform and late Norman. The first tower +is believed to have been destroyed by fire about 1470, after which the +present W. tower was built. Many alterations were made during the +seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; the original Norman clerestory, in +particular, being superseded by one of Low Perp. Note (1) Norman font; +(2) brass to William Cressye Esq. (d. 1558) and Grace (Johnson) his wife +(d. 1571); (3) brass to William Annabull (d. 1456), and Isabella his +wife. Chauncy quotes an inscription to one William Seabrooke (d. 1462) +and Joanna his wife, which is of some interest from the fact that the +name of Seabrooke is common to-day in this part of Herts; (4) E. window +of stained Munich glass; (5) window in N. transept to the family of the +late Sir J. B. Lawes of Rothamstead. _Rothamstead_ (1 mile S.W.), +formerly the seat of the above, is in a finely wooded park. Erected +about 1470, it has been almost rebuilt at different times. From the +grand entrance, under the clock tower, there is a fine view looking S. +There is an annual Flower Show in the park. Harpenden Bury is 1 mile +N.W. from Rothamstead, on the river Ver. + +_Hatching Green_ is a hamlet on Harpenden Common, 1 mile S.W. from the +station, M.R. + +HATFIELD may be visited by fast train from King's Cross, G.N.R. (17 +miles), the station being opposite the W. gates of the park. The older +parts of the town lie on the western slope of a hill close to the +railway; at the top stand the church and portions of the old palace, +beyond which, in the park, stands the fine mansion of the Cecils. The +town is of great antiquity; the Saxon Kings, who called it Heathfield +(the _Hetfelle_ of _Domesday Book_), owned the manor until it was given +by Edgar to the monks of Ely. After Ely had been converted into a +bishopric by Henry I., the bishops made Hatfield one of their several +residences, which gave rise to its former name of Bishop's Hatfield. +Their palace became a royal home during the reign of Henry VIII., and +was at one time occupied by his children Edward, Mary and Elizabeth. It +was to this old palace that Elizabeth was brought from the Tower soon +after her removal from Ashridge; whilst here she was in the custody +of Sir Thomas Pope, who treated her with kindness not always shown even +to royal prisoners. The story of her reception of the news that she was +Queen, of her first Council, held here in the palace, and of her +subsequent journey to London, has been too often narrated to need +repetition. Immediately after her death James I. paid a visit to +Theobalds Park, and had an interview with Sir Robert Cecil, a younger +son of Lord Burleigh, whom he presently created first Earl of Salisbury. +The exchange by the King of his manor of Hatfield for that of Theobalds +has been mentioned in the Introduction (Section X). The King promised to +build for Sir Robert a new house at Hatfield; the work was carried out +on a magnificent scale, and was completed sometime in 1611. The new +house stood a little E. from the old palace. To this house James paid an +early visit; one of its most stately apartments is called "King James's +Room". + +[Illustration: HATFIELD HOUSE] + +_Hatfield House_ is still a fine example of early Jacobean architecture. +To be appreciated it must certainly be seen: any adequate account of its +architecture, its history and its treasures would fill such a volume as +this. In shape it is a parallelogram, about 280 feet long by 70 feet +wide, with two wings on the S. front. The centre between the two wings +is Italian Renaissance in style; the central tower, pierced by the great +gate, being of rich Elizabethan design. On the face of the third storey +of the tower are the armorial bearings of the Earl of Salisbury. This S. +front and the two wings enclose on three sides a quadrangle about 130 +feet wide by 100 feet deep, beautifully laid out with flower beds and +lawns. The extremities of each wing take the shape of square, three +storeyed towers, surmounted by cupolas 20 feet high. Between the wings +runs a basement arcade, of eight arches on Doric pilasters, four on each +side of the gateway below the armorial bearings. The entire floor above +the arcade is occupied by the long gallery, 160 feet by 20 feet, and 16 +feet high. At the W. end of this gallery is the library, at the E. end +is King James's Room. The aspect of the house from the N. is not so +imposing; but there is a noble view over the grounds from the N. +terrace, and the central clock tower is a conspicuous object from the +most distant spots in the park. The library, graced by Zucchero's +portrait of Robert, Earl of Salisbury, contains one of the most valuable +collections of MSS. in the country, but the State Papers have recently +been lodged in a room of greater security. A few of the treasures of +these two rooms may be mentioned: (1) more than 12,000 autograph letters +of the early Cecils; (2) the Diary of the "great Lord Burleigh"; (3) the +forty-two articles of Edward VI. with his autograph attached; (4) a +vellum MS. with miniature of Henry VII.; (5) the Norfolk correspondence; +(6) the Council Book of Mary Tudor; (7) early MS. of the Chronicle of +William of Malmesbury; (8) autograph MS. by Ascham. + +[Illustration: KING JAMES'S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE] + +_King James's Room_ has three fine oriel windows and is profusely +decorated. The great chimney-piece of marble mosaic, 12 feet wide, is +supported on black Doric columns, and surmounted by a statue in bronze +of James. Note the costly candelabra and gilt-framed furniture. + +_The Grand Staircase_ is hung with portraits of many Cecils, by Lely, +Vandyck, Kneller, Reynolds and other masters. Note the huge dimensions +of the carved balustrade; the strange rustic figures portrayed thereon; +and the lions grasping shields bearing heraldic devices. There are five +landings. + +Among other apartments the following should be visited: (1) _The +Chapel_, with its fine Flemish windows representing scriptural stories, +marble altar-piece, and open stalls; (2) the _Winter Dining Room_, +looking out upon the N. terrace, about 30 feet square; this room +contains many valuable pictures, including Wilkie's Duke of Wellington, +Van Somer's James I. and Charles I., and Kneller's Peter the Great; (3) +_Great Banqueting Hall_; (4) _Summer Dining Room_, near the foot of the +great staircase; the bust of Burleigh, in white marble, is above the +door; (5) the _Armoury_, full of treasures "rich and rare," suits of +armour, relics of the Spanish Armada, various arms, etc. Other pictures +in various parts of the house include (1) William III., and Lady +Ranelagh, by Kneller; (2) half-length of Elizabeth with jewelled +head-dress and grotesquely embroidered gown; Mildred Coke, mother of +the first earl; Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter: all by Zucchero; (3) fine +whole-length of Mary, first Marchioness of Salisbury, by Reynolds. + +The Park is the largest in the county, being about 9 miles in +circumference; it is undulating and beautifully wooded. There are some +superb avenues. Of Queen Elizabeth's oak, N.E. from the N. terrace, +little is left saving a portion of trunk, railed round; but the Lion +Oak, between the house and the great W. gates, still puts forth leaves +in its season. The maze close to the house is only less famous than that +at Hampton Court. + +The Church of St. Ethelreda is cruciform, largely Dec. and one of the +largest in the county. A Norman arch in the S. transept is thought to be +a portion of the original structure. It was completely restored, indeed +almost rebuilt, in 1872. The nave is 102 feet by 20 feet; the chancel +about 40 feet by 20 feet. There are N. and S. porches; the former looks +almost directly upon the great gate-house of the old palace. The most +important among many features of interest is the-- + +_Salisbury Chapel_, N. side of chancel, from which it is divided by an +arcade of three arches on Ionic granite columns. The whole is enclosed +by beautifully designed iron gates, the work, probably, of an unknown +Italian. Note the marble wainscotting, and the finely conceived and +executed allegorical paintings and mosaics on walls and roof. At the E. +side, on a slab of black marble supported by four kneeling figures in +white marble (representing the cardinal virtues) lies the recumbent +effigy of Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, Lord High Treasurer +of England (d. 1612). The effigy is in robes, with official staff in +hand. Beneath the slab is a skeleton in white marble. Note also in this +chapel mezzo-relievo effigy to William Curll, Esq. (d. 1617), with +inscription, almost illegible, to the effect that he was a most +Christian knight who died in hope of a joyful resurrection. + +On the opposite (S.) side of the chancel is the _Brockett Chapel_, +containing monuments to the Reades and Brocketts of Brocket Hall (see +below). Among them note (1) two recumbent female figures, above them the +arms of the Brockett family and beneath an inscription to Dame Elizabeth +Brockett (d. 1612) and an epitaph to Dame Agnes Saunders (d. 1588); (2) +medallion of a female by Rysbrack (1760); (3) bust of Sir James Reade, +Bart. (d. 1701), and of Sir John Reade, Bart. (d. 1711); (4) helmet of +Sir John Brockett on wall. There are piscinae in the chancel and N. +transept, both discovered during restoration. The reredos, alabaster and +mosaic, has a fine crucifixion group, with SS. Alban and Etheldreda on +either side, carved by Earp, who also carved the pulpit of Caen stone. +Note the beautiful clustered shafts of marble on the font of Tisbury +stone, the gift of the late Marchioness of Salisbury. + +Three miles N.N.W. is _Brocket Hall_. The Great North Road skirts the +park on the E. and the river Lea flows past the house from N.W. to S.E. +The present edifice was designed by Paine for Sir Matthew Lamb, Bart., +whose son, Sir Peniston Lamb, Bart., became Viscount Melbourne in 1780. +By this nobleman the Prince Regent was sometimes entertained here, and +here, as stated in the Introduction, Lord Palmerston died in 1865. The +drawing-room and grand staircase have always been admired, but, as a +whole, the house is large and stately rather than beautiful. Elizabeth +is said to have visited here before she became Queen, and in the park, +as at Hatfield, an oak is shown as the one under which she loved to sit. +From the Hall the most charming walks may be taken in any direction; +_e.g._, through the park S.E. to Lemsford Mill, or S.W. to Cromer Hyde, +N.W. to Water End, or N.E. to Ayot Green. More charming still is the +ramble--permission should be requested--beside the winding Lea towards +Old Marford and Wheathampstead. + +_Hatfield Hyde_ (13/4 mile N.E. from Hatfield) is a hamlet in a pretty +district, with the river Lea and Hatfield Park a little S. + +_Haultwick_ lies 3 miles W. from the Old North Road; it is a hamlet 1 +mile N. from Little Munden. The nearest station is Braughing, G.E.R. +(about 31/2 miles E.), passing the S. side of Hamel's Park. + +_Heavensgate_ (2 miles W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) consists of a +few cottages in the centre of a district of small hamlets. The walk (2 +miles N.) to Flamstead through Trowley Bottom is pleasant. + +[Illustration: HEMEL HEMPSTEAD] + +HEMEL HEMPSTEAD.--Visitors from London should book to Boxmoor +(L.&N.W.R.) and walk N.E. over the little common or take the motor-bus +through Marlowes to the town (11/2 mile). From St. Albans it is a pleasant +walk by way of Gorhambury and the village of Leverstock Green; from +Redbourn it is but a few minutes' journey (M.R.). The town, until +recently an old "Bailiwick," is on a hill, with central market place, +town hall and corn exchange. The church is very ancient; it is +cruciform, of flint and clunch stone. The oldest portions can hardly be +less than 750 years old; the nave, arcade and W. doorway are fine +examples of the period. Note (1) groined roof and Dec. windows S. side +of chancel; (2) transept roof, fourteenth century, restored in 1880; (3) +nave roof, fifteenth century, restored 1885; (4) great height of +octagonal, leaded spire, conspicuous for miles round (see illustration). +Among monuments note (1) figured brass, representing an armed man, to +Robert Albyn and Margaret his wife (1480); the inscription I transcribe +from Chauncy:-- + + "Robert Albyn gist icy + Et Margareta sa femme oubike luy + Dieu de lez almes eyt mercy"; + +(2) monument to Sir Astley Paston Cooper (d. 1841). + +Hemel Hempstead, according to Norden, owed its name (Heanhamsted) to +the high hemp-land on the E. side of the town. Offa, King of the +Mercians, gave six houses at _Hemelhamstede_ to the Abbey of St. Albans; +but the remainder of the _vill_ remained in the hands of Saxon Kings +until it was given to Earl Moreton by William I. The entry in _Domesday +Book_ is in this case unusually interesting; the property held by Earl +Moreton is thus described: "Earl Moreton held Hamelhamstede in Treung +hundred, it was rated for 10 hides ... there are two Frenchmen born, +with thirteen Bordars, ... there are eight Servants, and four Mills of +seven and thirty Shillings and four Pence Rent by the Year, and three +hundred Eels wanting five and twenty, Meadow four Carucates, Common of +Pasture for the Cattle, and two Shillings Rent by the Year, Wood to feed +one thousand and two hundred Hogs; in the whole value it is worth two +and twenty Pounds, when he received it five and twenty Pounds, and Rent +in the time of King Edward (the Confessor). Two were Brethren, Men of +Earl Lewin, they held this mannor." From Priory Hill, W. from the +church, a fine view may be obtained of the town below and the cornfields +beyond. _Bury Mill_ is on the river Gade, at the foot of the hill. +_Gadesbridge Park_ is on the left as you pass from High Street to +Piccott's End; the House is on a beautifully wooded slope, W. from the +Gade; it is the residence of Sir Astley Paston Paston Cooper, Bart., +J.P., etc. A good deal of straw plait is still made by the women of +this neighbourhood. + +_Heronsgate_ (3 miles W. from Rickmansworth) is a hamlet on the Bucks +border, with a small chapel-of-ease to St. Peter's, Mill End, 11/4 mile E. +The building is modern, with one window of stained glass. + +[Illustration: HERTFORD] + +HERTFORD, the county town, is of immemorial antiquity. The origin of the +name has elicited much learned conjecture, and Hertford is one of +several places held to be the _Durocobrivis_ mentioned by Antonine. It +is the _Herudsford_ (_i.e._ red ford) of the Venerable Bede. That it was +a town of some importance on the river Lea even in the days of the +Trinobantes seems indisputable. Norden conjectured that the true name of +the town was Hartford, so called because in Saxon times, when the +surrounding country was densely wooded, the harts crossed the river by a +natural ford at this spot. However this may be, the old borough seal, +three or four centuries ago, bore as a device a hart in shallow water. +The rivers Rib, Beane, and Maran all unite with the Lea in the immediate +neighbourhood. Some reference may be here made to the doings of Alfred +the Great in this neighbourhood. By putting together what is recorded by +William of Malmesbury, Henry of Huntingdon, Asser and others we learn +that in the twenty-third year of Alfred's reign the Danes infested the +Thames with their ships, sailed up the Lea in the lighter of their +crafts, and built a fort about 20 miles from London, at or near what is +now the town of Ware. Presently, in the course of their many foraging +excursions, they sailed farther up the river towards Hertford, stripped +the people in the town and burnt down many houses. They afterwards +established a garrison near the town. Alfred brought his army down to +the river side the following year and made a careful survey of the +Danish fort and of the character and position of their ships. He is said +to have passed from place to place in a boat, drawn by a horse, and to +have carefully ascertained the depth of the water at different points. +The precise nature of his subsequent operations is not well known, but +he is said to have diverted the course of the river, to have erected a +dam (Shass) at Blackwall, and by these means to have grounded the Danish +fleet. The Danes held a treaty, and eventually withdrew into +Cambridgeshire and Gloucestershire; the Londoners came down to the scene +of Alfred's ingenuity and destroyed or appropriated the Danish ships. + +Of the castle, built by Edward the Elder in 905, there still remain +several large fragments of an embattled wall, partly Norman, and a +postern gate. Of its history only a few leading facts can be mentioned +here. William I. entrusted it to the keeping of Peter de Valoignes; it +was besieged by Louis the Dauphin, and capitulated on the Feast of St. +Nicholas in 1216; it was granted, together with the town, to John of +Gaunt, Earl of Richmond, in whose time Kings John of France and David +of Scotland were prisoners within its walls, and after the Earl had been +created Duke of Lancaster he held a court in the castle for three weeks. +It was the last prison house of Isabella, widow of Edward II. Henry IV. +gave the castle to his wife Joan; Henry V. to his wife Katherine of +France; and Henry VI. to his wife Margaret of Anjou. Elizabeth and James +I. are both said to have visited this castle. Charles I., on 3rd May, in +the sixth year of his reign, transferred it to William Earl of +Salisbury. It was seized by the Parliament during the Great Rebellion. + +The Roman Catholic Church in St. John Street stands on or near the site +of the old Priory, founded during the reign of William I. by Ralph +Limesy and by him conveyed to the Abbot of St. Albans, who placed here +six Benedictine monks under Ralph, who became their first prior. The +Priory was dissolved in the twenty-sixth year of Henry VIII.; but the +church was rebuilt by Thomas Willis in 1629. It was "demolisht by order +of the Bishop of Lincoln" towards the end of the seventeenth century. +The church of All Saints, on high ground E. from the town, was destroyed +by fire in 1891, when almost everything perished. It was immediately +rebuilt as a Perp. structure of Runcorn stone, and consecrated in 1895. +In the main, the plan of the old church has been followed, but the +aisles are longer than formerly; note the fine clerestoried nave of five +bays, and hexagonal N. porch. The old building contained monuments to +Sir John Harrison, Kt., Farmer of Customs to Charles I. (d. 1669);[4] to +Isabel Newmarch, maid of honour to Isabella, daughter of Charles VI. of +France and second wife to Richard II.; and to Johannes Prest, "porter" +(janitor) to Katherine, wife of Henry V. The two latter monuments were +removed more than 200 years ago. Note the beautiful chestnut trees in +the avenue near the church, and the many quaint epitaphs on the +tombstones in the extensive graveyard. The Church of St. Andrew is +modern; it occupies the site of an older Perp. edifice, originally +founded before the Conquest. Close by in the market place is the Shire +Hall, a large brick building of "questionable shape" erected towards the +close of the eighteenth century. Malting, brewing and general trade in +corn and its products form the larger part of the industries of +Hertford. Between this town and Ware is the spot where Cromwell put a +summary period to the insurrection of the "Levellers" by shooting a +ringleader named Arnald. + +[Footnote 4: This Sir John Harrison erected the fine brick mansion in +Balls Park, S.E. from Hertford, once the property of Charles Townsend, +Secretary of State to George II. His widow built four almshouses at +Butchery Green, long ago decayed.] + +_Hertford Heath._ (See Amwell, Little.) + +HERTINGFORDBURY may be visited from Hertford, the station (G.N.R.) +being 11/2 mile S.W. The village is pleasantly situated on the river +Maran, on the S. confines of Panshanger Park. The church, partly rebuilt +by Earl Cowper in 1890-3, was founded during the fifteenth century. It +contains little of architectural interest, but the monuments are +numerous: (1) marble mosaic altar tomb to Sir W. Harrington, with +alabaster effigies of himself and wife and inscription in rhyme; (2) +slab to Thomas Ellis (d. 1608) and Grace his wife (d. 1612); (3) +recumbent effigy in marble to Lady Calvert, wife of Sir George Calvert, +Kt., who died in 1622; (4) to Dr. Jonathan Browne, Dean of Hertford (d. +1643); (5) very ancient brass inscription beneath chancel arch to two +daughters of Robert de Louthe, and one of similar age to Robert de +Louthe and his wife. The Cowper Chapel, N. side of chancel, contains +many monuments to that family, particularly a fine alto-relievo by +Roubeliac to Spencer Cowper (d. 1727), chief Justice of Chester in 1717. + +HEXTON (about 6 miles N.W. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.) lies on a +tongue of the county surrounded W., N. and E. by Bedfordshire. The +Church of St. Faith, W. from the village, was rebuilt, with the +exception of the embattled tower, in 1824, as a Perp. edifice. The St. +Nicholas Chapel, N. side of chancel, takes the place of the chapel +bearing the same name in the former church. There is a memorial to Peter +Taverner (d. 1601), who was, I suppose, father to that Francis +Taverner, Esq., who compiled a record of the antiquities of Hexton and +set it in the chapel. Little space can be spared for excerpts in this +volume, but the details which Taverner brought together are so +interesting that I transcribe a part of them from a copy in my +possession:-- + +"Near unto the Roman military Way called Icknild or Ikenild-Street, +which passeth by this Parish upon a very high Hill is to be seen a +warlike Fort of great Strength, and ancient Works, which seemeth to have +been a Summer standing Camp of the Romans: And near it on the Top of +another Hill called Wayting-Hill, a Hillock was raised up, such as the +Romans were wont to rear for Souldiers slain, wherein many Bones have +been found. The Saxons call'd this Fort Ravensburgh, from a City in +Germany, whereof the Duke of Saxony beareth the Title of Lord at this +Day. And this Town, which the Britains perhaps call'd Hesk of Reed, +which doth abound much in this Place; the Sazons call'd Heckstanes-Tune, +that is the Town of Reed and Stones, if not rather Hockstanes-Tune, that +is, the Town of Mire and Stones, for old Englishmen, call deep Mire, +Hocks: Or may be from Grates set in Rivers or Waters before Floodgates, +which are call'd Hecks; neither is it unlikely but that the Danes made +some Use of this Fort, for a Parcel of Ground near thereunto is called +Dane-Furlong to this Day. Some of these Conjectures may be true, but +this is certain, that Offa, a Saxon King, of the Mertians about 795, +founded the Monastery of St. Albans, in Memory of St. Alban, and that +Sexi an honourable and devout Dane (as it is in the Chartulary of the +Abby) about Anno Dom. 1030, gave to the said Monastery the Town of +Heckstane-Tune and the Abbot of St. Albans held this Mannor in the time +of King William the Conqueror. + +"This Vill at that time did lie in the Half-hundred of Hiz, and from +that time during the Space of 510 Years, the Abbots of St. Albans were +Lords of the Mannors now call'd Hexton. They were also Patrons of this +Church (dedicated to St. Faith, which Saint had her Statue erected over +a Fountain near this Church Yard, call'd St. Faith's Well) for John de +Hertford, the 23d Abbot, did appropriate this Church of Hexstoneston to +the said Monastery. The Cellarers of which Monastery kept the Court Leet +and the Court Baron, and received the Rents of the Demeasnes and +Customary Tenants of this Mannor; and the Sacrists had the disposing of +the Profits of the Rectory. + +"The said Fort, which the common People call Ravensborough Castle, is +cast up in the Form of an Oval, and containeth sixteen Acres, one Rood, +and fifteen Poles of Ground, and is naturally strengthened with mighty +deep and very steep Combs, which the inhabitants call Lyn. + +"The Town of Hexton is seated at the Foot of the Mountains, whence issue +many Springs of Water; the Mountains are a continued Rock of Stone." + +HIGH CROSS (3 miles N. from Ware) is a village and parish on the Old +North Road. It has a modern Dec. church of grey stone, containing +several good stained-glass windows, but little of architectural +interest. _Youngsbury_, a beautiful but small park, S. from the village, +has a fine Georgian residence (C. B. Giles-Puller, Esq.). The little +river Rib skirts the park on the S. side. There is a small hamlet of the +same name 11/4 mile S.W. from[j] Radlett Station (M.R.). + +_High Street_ is a small hamlet on the Cambridge Road, near the river +Quin. Braughing Station (G.E.R.) is 11/4 mile S. + +_High Wych_ (2 miles N. from Harlow Station, Essex) has an E.E. church, +built in 1861; the marble reredos, finely worked, was added in 1871. The +trade in malt is large for so small a place. + +_Highley Hill_ (1 mile S.W. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) is on the +Cambridgeshire border. + +HINXWORTH, formerly Hamsteworde and Henxworth (4 miles N. from Baldock), +is close to the Bedfordshire border. The parish is very ancient. The +church of St. Nicholas was erected about 1400 on the site of an earlier +structure. It is a mixture of several styles, partly restored in 1881. +Note (1) two canopied Perp. niches in S.E. angle of nave, where was +formerly the lady-chapel; (2) brass to John Lambard, a master of the +Mercers' Company (d. 1487), and Anne his wife; (3) oak roof in +chancel, added in 1892; (4) rood-stairs. William I. divided the _vill_ +between three Normans, Peter de Valoignes, Hardwin de Scalers, and +William Earl of Ewe, who owned much other property in Hertfordshire. The +vill was subsequently divided into two manors, one of which belonged to +William de Cantilupe, a Steward and Councillor to King John, and the +other, during the reign of Henry VII., to John Lambard mentioned above. +This manor was called Pulter; and the old house (now _Hinxworth Place_, +1/2 mile S. from the village) was once inhabited by some Cistercian monks +of the Monastery of Pipewell (Northants). Note the clunch walls and +mullioned windows, in one of which, designed in stained glass, are the +armorial bearings of three former owners. Two hundred years ago the +village consisted of thirty-five dwellings, three of which were +almshouses. + +[Illustration: HITCHIN] + +HITCHIN is an ancient town, full of interest, 32 miles N. from King's +Cross, G.N.R. It was formerly called Hitche, very probably from the +little river Hiz, which rises at Well Head, about 11/2 mile S.W. from the +centre of the town. Roman coins and pottery, and even prehistoric +implements have been found in great quantities in the neighbourhood, and +there are traces of a prehistoric lake bed, to the S.E. _The Priory_, +immediately S. (R. H. J. Delme-Radcliffe, Esq., J.P.), occupies the site +of a Carmelite monastery and Conventual church founded in the reign of +Edward II.; and the Biggin Almshouses, close to the church, still +preserve some of the old fabric of the Gilbertine Nunnery, founded in +the reign of Edward III. The Church of St. Mary (formerly St. Andrew), +just off the N.E. corner of the market-place, is thought to be the +largest parish church in the county, the other claimant for that honour +being St. Peters, Great Berkhampstead. The whole structure is embattled. +The square W. tower is of unusual size, but low in proportion. Entering +by the fine old S. porch we notice the niches for statues, none of which +remain, and the vaulted roof, badly battered and marred by--as is +supposed--the zealous iconoclasts of Cromwell's army. Opposite, over the +N. porch, hangs a painting of the Adoration of the Magi, believed to be +by Rubens; it was formerly over the communion table. The church has been +restored at intervals since 1858; but the fine Perp. aisle-roofs still +remain. The font, of Ketton stone, is ancient, and formerly had statues +of the twelve Apostles in niches; these, however, have been mutilated +almost beyond recognition; the beautiful oak canopy is new. Note the +effigy in stone lying in the recess of the first window of the N. aisle, +believed to be that of Bernard de Baliol, founder of the Preceptory of +Knights Templars at Temple Dinsley (3 miles S.), and the mosaics of the +reredos, representing the Last Supper, Christ and the woman of Samaria, +Moses striking the rock, and other subjects from Scripture. The screens +of carved oak, between the aisles and chancel aisles, are among the +finest in the county. Memorials are numerous; some ancient brasses +having been brought to light during restoration. Among the brasses are +one (1) to John Beel, Margary his wife, and their eight children (1477); +this is near the pulpit; (2) to James Hert, B.D. (d. 1498); (3) to John +Pulter, a draper (d. 1421), and his wife Alice, the effigies almost +obliterated; (4) to Nicholas Mattok, and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1485); +this Nicholas was a fishmonger of London, and a merchant of the staple +of Calais; (5) portion of a brass, near the chancel steps, to John +Sperehawke, D.D., Canon of Wells (d. 1474). + +Adjoining the W. end of the churchyard is Golden Square, once the +residence of Eugene Aram, from which we may pass into Bancroft, one of +the widest thoroughfares in the county. Close by is Tilehouse Street; +the Baptist Chapel, on the left, some way up the street, was restored in +1894: it stands on the site of the building in which Bunyan preached; a +chair which he gave is still shown in the vestry. It may here be +mentioned that George Whitefield and George Fox are both known to have +visited Hitchin during their missionary wanderings. A little farther W. +is Mount Pleasant, thought to be the birthplace of George Chapman, the +translator of Homer. That he finished his translation in this +neighbourhood is matter of knowledge; but what is told of his family +connections with Hitchin is little more than conjecture. + +Between the town and the station, G.N.R., stands a modern church of red +brick, dressed with Bath stone, E. Dec. in style. There are good oak +stalls and a sedile in the chancel. + +Hitchin was noted during the sixteenth century for its trade in wood and +malt. There were at one time tan-yards beside the Hiz, and the +buckle-makers of Bucklersbury gave that street its name. The +malting-yards occupied much of the ground on both sides of Bancroft. The +making of lavender water in the town is referred to in the Introduction. + +HOCKERIL is now the E. suburb of Bishop's Stortford, the bridge over the +Stort, near the Old Black Lion, connecting it with the town. It has a +modern Gothic church. The E. extremity of Hockeril is almost on the +border line between Hertfordshire and Essex. + +HODDESDON (11/2 mile N. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is an ancient +market town, lying on high ground among beautifully diversified +surroundings. It is known, at least by name, to all readers of _The +Complete Angler_; but the old Thatched House, to which Izaak Walton +often resorted, has long been a thing of the past. The Bull Inn still +remains where it stood in the time of Prior, whose allusion to it in his +_Down Hall_ is invariably quoted in local handbooks: + + "Into an old inn did this equipage roll, + At a town they call Hod'sdon, the sign of the Bull, + Near a nymph with an urn that divides the highway, + And into a puddle throws mother of tea". + +The stone figure to which Prior refers is no longer to be seen. At the +S. end of the High Street, on the right when entering the town from +Broxbourne, stands _Rawdon House_, an embattled Jacobean mansion of red +brick, built by Sir Marmaduke Rawdon in 1622. It was restored in 1877, +and the stucco with which it was formerly coated was removed. A tower, +with cupola roof, is at the rear of the house, which is now a convent +for Augustinian nuns. + +The Church of St. Catherine, close to the site of the old Thatched +House, but W. from the opposite side of the High Street, dates from +1732; the tower was added in 1888. It is a large building of red-brick, +in mixed styles, with small windows of stained glass in the chancel. It +is not interesting. + +_Hollesmore End_ (2 miles W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small +hamlet. + +HOLWELL is a village and parish transferred from Bedfordshire to +Hertfordshire in 1897. It is about 11/2 mile N.E. from Pirton (_q.v._); +the nearest station is Henlow, M.R., 2 miles N. The Church of St. Peter, +very much restored, was originally Perp. There is a xii century holy +water basin, and a very curious old brass to Robert Wodehouse, a priest +(1515), with figures of two _wodehowses_ (wild forest men) and of a +chalice and paten. + +_Hook's Cross_ (2 miles E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +on the main road from Hertford to Stevenage. _Frogmore Hall_ stands in +a small park 1/2 mile E.; it is a large modern mansion of red brick and +stone facings. The grounds are very picturesque, and are divided by the +river Beane. + +HORMEAD, GREAT (21/2 miles E. from Buntingford), has a restored fifteenth +century church, perhaps 1400-20, containing a brass to a benefactor, one +William Delawood (1694) and a mural monument to Lieut.-Col. Stables, +killed at Waterloo. The village is close to the river Quin, which flows +between the church and Hare Street on the Cambridge Road. + +_Hormead, Little_ (1/2 mile S. from the above), has a quaint little Norman +and E.E. church on the hill crest overlooking Hare Street. Leaving the +Cambridge Road at the S. end of that village, and crossing the river +Quin, the rounded arch of the Norman doorway on the N. side of the nave +catches the eye as we approach the village. The door itself is partly of +wrought iron work, seventeenth century; an engraving of it is in +Cussans' _History of Hertfordshire_. There is excellently preserved work +in the Norman nave. It has been surmised that "Hormede" was formerly one +_vill_, that it was divided soon after 1100, and the two churches built +on the hill less than 1/2 mile apart. Ralph Baugiard and Eustace, Earl of +Boulogne, together held the manor of "Hormede" at the time of the Great +Survey, and the names Hormead Magna and Hormead Parva are of later +origin. + +_Horse Shoes_ (1/2 a mile N. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +in the parish of Colney Heath. + +_Howe Green_, a small hamlet, is 11/4 mile S. from Cole Green Station, +G.N.R. Pretty walks may be taken S. to Bedwell Park, or N.W. to the mill +on the Lea, Rye Croft, and Mill Green. + +HUNSDON (2 miles N.E. from Roydon Station, Essex) is a very ancient +village. The E. Perp. church of flint is thought to date from 1400, and +the N. porch of oak is probably coeval with the main structure. Note the +finely carved Jacobean screen which divides the Cary Chapel in the S. +transept from the nave, and, in the chapel, the imposing monument and +alabaster effigies to Sir John Cary (d. 1617) and his wife. The monument +is built into the wall; behind it is a rather long, but historically +important inscription:--"Here resteth in Peace Sir John Cary, Knight, +Baron of Hunsdon (being the fourth Son to the Right Honorable Henry +Baron of Hunsdon) and the Lady Mary Hunsdon his Wife, Daughter to +Leonard Hide of Throcking in the county of Hertford, Esq.; The Said Sir +John Cary was sent to Barwick by the late Queen Elizabeth of Famous +Memory, in the Year of our Lord, 1593, to be Marshall of the Town of +Barwick, and Captain of Norham; afterwards he was made Governor of the +said Town and Garrison of Barwick, and Lord Warden of the East Marches +of England,... Scotland, and so he remained until he returned into +England with the most famous King James, where he entered into the +Possession of the Crown of England; and so having two Sons and two +Daughters ended this transitory Life, in an assured Hope to rise again +in Christ." In the chancel windows are some white roses, and a badge of +the House of York; note also the canopies in these windows, and the +figures of Apostles in the W. window. On the N. wall of nave is a fine +brass to James Gray, showing a man shooting at deer with a crossbow; +this Gray was gamekeeper for thirty-five years at _Hunsdon House_. +Bishop Ridley preached from the pulpit on several occasions. + +_Hunsdon House_ stands between the church and Gilston Park. During the +reign of Edward IV., Sir John Oldhall "built here a fair House after the +mode of a Castle ... which building, 'tis said, cost L7,222". This would +be an enormous sum of money in those days. The original structure had a +high tower and large courtyard. Henry VIII. made the house a palace, and +in so doing appears to have almost rebuilt it; it is known that his +children were often here, as the King had a high opinion of +Hertfordshire air. Queen Elizabeth gave the estate to Sir Henry Cary, +Kt., her cousin, and created him Baron Hunsdon. The "palace" was +surrounded by a moat, crossed by two bridges; the grand entrance and +lofty clock tower, the outhouses and grounds are elaborately depicted in +a print in Chauncy's _History_. The present house was erected at the +beginning of this century, partly on a fresh site, but some portions of +what was the W. extremity of the old palace are built into the E. wing. +Two fine Jacobean chimney-pieces still remain; but little else is left +of the old Tudor home, and the moat has been levelled. The present +house, however, is an imposing, even noble structure of red brick, and +its position, backed by the grand old elms in the park, is very +picturesque. N.E. stood Hunsdon Lodge, the hunting lodge of Queen +Elizabeth. + +HUNTON BRIDGE is a pleasant little village at the meeting of the roads +from Watford, King's Langley, and St. Albans, on the Grand Junction +Canal. The nearest station is King's Langley (L.&N.W.R.), 11/4 mile N. +There is a good modern inn and many pretty cottages, and folk in search +of rest and quiet might journey farther and find less suitable +retirement. The nearest church is at Langleybury (_q.v._). + +ICKLEFORD, formerly Ickleton, is a village on the Roman Icknield Way, +which at this spot fords the little river Hiz; hence its name. It is 2 +miles N. from Hitchin. The church was restored in 1860; but portions of +the ancient fabric have been carefully retained, and a small chapel +added to the chancel. The tower is Norman, as are also part of the nave +arcade and the S. doorway. The chancel arch, pointed, is finely carved; +the stairs to the rood-loft still remain; there is a piscina in the +chancel. Note brass to Thomas Somer and his wife (_circa_ 1400). S. from +the church is _Ickleford Manor_, in a small park, for some years the +residence of Commander H. C. Dudley Ryder, R.N. It is not of historic +interest. + +IPPOLLITTS or St. Ippolitts (2 miles S.E. from Hitchin) was formerly +called Hippolits, Eppalets or Pallets, according to the taste of the +speaker. It was thought by Norden to owe its name to Hippolits, a +supposed Saint, who was very skilful in the treatment of horses. After +the Saint's death a shrine was placed to his honour in the parish +church, and to this shrine near the high altar divers persons brought +their ailing steeds to be healed by the attendant priest with the help +of relics of the Saint. The relics were of efficacy commensurate with +the gifts of those who desired the Saint's blessing! "The horses," says +one writer, "were brought out of the North Street, through the North +Gate, and the North Door of the Church, which was boarded on purpose to +bring up the horses to the Altar." The church was restored in 1878; it +is of flint and rubble, and is now chiefly Perp. and Dec. with a few +older portions. Note (1) ambry and double piscina in the chancel; (2) +brass in N. transept to Robert Poydres (d. 1401); (3) brasses in +chancel, with effigies, to the Hughes family, one of whom, Alice, was +daughter of Thomas Bybsworth, "an ancient dweller in this parish"; she +died 1594. There is a tumulus about 1 mile S. + +KELSHALL (21/2 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) has a restored, +but interesting church, dedicated to St. Faith, partly Perp. and partly +Dec. Over the S. porch is a small chamber, and in the N. aisle is a +recess, the nature of which is not quite understood, but it was probably +used for the safe-keeping of banner-staves, crosses and other +pre-Reformation ornaments. There is a brass with two effigies to +"Rychard Adane and Maryon his Wyff" (d. 1400 and 1435 respectively). In +the churchyard is an old sundial on the shaft of a stone cross. John +Janeway, a young divine of astonishing spirituality, whose _Life_, by +his brother James, was subsequently prefaced by Robert Hall, was buried +here in 1657: Richard Baxter was one of his admirers. The Manor of +_Chelesell_ was the property of the Abbot of Ely at the time of the +Conquest, having been given to that ancient foundation by the father of +Edward the Confessor. + +_Kensworth_ was transferred to Bedfordshire in 1897. + +KIMPTON (about 23/4 miles N. from Wheathampstead Station) lies between the +hills that lead N. to Whitwell and S.E. to Ayot St. Lawrence. The +village is very ancient, and was called _Kimeton_ in Saxon days. The +church, a little N. from the centre of the village, has been much +restored: the N. aisle was added in 1861; the tower and the N. porch +(over which is a parvise, as at Kelshall) were restored in 1887-8; the +chancel in 1890, when the reredos was added. The building is E.E. Note +the finely carved oak screen separating the S. aisle from the Dacre +Chapel, formerly the rood screen, the piscina in the chapel itself, and +the stained glass in the E. window to Thomas, twenty-second Baron Dacre +(d. 1890), to whom the reredos is also a memorial. _Kimpton Hoo_, in a +beautiful park of about 250 acres, is 1 mile N.E. from the village. It +is the seat of Viscount Hampden. Pretty walks may be taken E. _via_ +Kimpton Mill to Codicote, N. to Bendish and Whitwell, W. to Peter's +Green, or S. to Lamer Park. + +KING'S LANGLEY is a large and interesting village. The river Gade flows +between the main street and the station, L.&N.W.R.[k] Paper and straw +plait are both made largely. The village owes its name to the fact that +Henry III. built a palace on a spot still marked by a few fragments of +ruin a little W. from the church, and the royal manor became known as +Langley Regis, whereas the Langley on the E. side of the river belonged +to the Abbey of St. Albans, and was called Abbot's Langley (_q.v._). +Edmund de Langley, fifth son of Edward III., was born in this palace in +1344. He became Duke of York, Earl of Cambridge and Lord Tivedale, and +married Isabel, a younger daughter of Don Pedro of Castile. In 1392 +Richard II., with his first Queen, Anne of Bohemia, and many bishops, +earls, lords and ladies, kept Christmas at King's Langley Palace. + +Near the palace was founded, by one Roger Helle, a priory of Dominican +monks, which was enriched by Edward II. and several successive monarchs. +The body of Piers Gaveston was brought from Oxford and buried in the +church of this priory in 1315--he was beheaded on Blacklow Hill in +1312--and what was then believed to be the body of Richard II. was +brought to the same spot in 1400 for temporary sepulture. The priory was +dissolved, like most priories, in the days of Henry VIII.; but it was +restored by Mary. It was finally suppressed soon after the accession of +Elizabeth. The church, at the S.E. extremity of the village street, is a +Perp. structure of flint and Totternhoe stone; the W. tower is embattled +and has an angle turret. It has been partially restored. On the N. side +of the chancel stood formerly the tomb of Edmund de Langley and Isabel +of Castile (both mentioned above) which was brought from the priory +church at the Dissolution; it is now in the chapel at the end of the N. +aisle. There is, I believe, no absolute proof that this is the tomb of +Edmund and Isabel, but the evidence that it is so is very strong. +Chauncy, two centuries back, wrote: "On the north side of the chancel +there is a Monument raised about five foot, with the Arms of France and +England, with three Labels upon it, also the Arms of Peter, King of +Castile and Leons, by which Coats it seems to be the Tomb where Edmond +de Langley, the Fifth Son of Edward III. and Isabel his Wife, one of the +Daughters of Don Pedro, King of Castile, was [were] interr'd". During +the removal of the tomb to its present position the bones of a male and +two females were discovered; they are presumably those of Edmund and +Isabel, and of Anne Mortimer, the wife of Edmund's second son, Richard, +Earl of Cambridge. The tomb is covered by a slab 7 feet 3 inches long; +the sides are embossed with Plantagenet shields within cusps. Note the +beautifully carved open screen between chapel and chancel, and the +reredos, partly of marble, erected in 1877. The oaken pulpit is Perp. +There are several other monuments: (1) to Hon. Sir W. Glascocke of +Aldamhowe, Kt., Admiralty Judge in Ireland under Charles II. (d. 1688); +(2) brass to John Carter, "late of Gifres" (d. 1588); the inscription +states that he had two wives, that the first bore him four sons and five +daughters and the second five sons and four daughters; (3) brass to +William Carter and Alice his wife, 1528. + +Sir John Evans, in 1862, found an almond-shaped river-drift flint +implement on a heap of stones in this neighbourhood. + +KING'S WALDEN (about 5 miles S.W. from Hitchin) has an ancient church, +carefully restored in 1868. It stands in the park of _The Bury_, a large +mansion, Elizabethan in style. The embattled tower has masonry probably +older than fourteenth century, and much of the nave arcade is Norman. +Note the sculptured capitals of pillars, curiously similar to those at +Old Shoreham. The chancel arch is E. Perp.; probably substituting its +E.E. predecessor on very close lines; the corbels bear busts thought to +resemble Henry VI. and Margaret of Anjou. In the chancel are a double +piscina, and two E.E. lancet windows. The chancel screen is a really +wonderful piece of work, in excellent preservation. In the N. aisle is +an ambry, and in the S. aisle a sedile and two piscinae, and on the N. +side another ambry. The font stands at the E. end of S. aisle, formerly +the Chapel of the Virgin Mary. + +_Kinsbourne Green_ is on the Bedfordshire border, 2 miles N.E. from +Harpenden. The Kennels of the Hertfordshire Hunt are here. The hamlet is +close to Luton Hoo Park. + +_Kitter's Green_ is a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from King's Langley Station +(L.&N.W.R.). Abbot's Langley old church (_q.v._) is 1/2 mile N. + +[Illustration: KNEBWORTH PARK] + +KNEBWORTH, famous as the home of Bulwer Lytton, lies on high ground 1 +mile W. from the station (G.N.R.). The village is small, and in itself +of little interest; it was formerly called Chenepeworde, and +Knebbeworth. It is, however, ancient, and was valued in _Domesday Book_. + +Sir Thomas Bouchier, K.G., who fought for the Earl of Richmond at +Bosworth Field, sold the manor of Knebbeworth to Robert Lytton, Esq., +Keeper of the Wardrobe to Henry VII., whose son William was buried in +this parish. This Sir Robert began to erect a huge Tudor mansion on the +site of a fortress which had stood since the days of the Conquest; it +took several generations to complete it. The present house is the result +of the work of demolition and reconstruction in the days of the +novelist's mother, and of the enlarging of 1883, when the S. wing and +entrance were added; it is pseudo-Gothic. The castellated parapet, +cupola-topped turrets, griffins upon pinnacles and many mullioned +windows are noticeable features from the grounds. Within, the finest +sight is the grand old banqueting hall, with its gallery for minstrels, +its Elizabethan oak-screen, and wainscots by Inigo Jones. Around, on all +sides, are suits of armour, some dating from the days of Henry VII. The +room is associated with memories of Elizabeth, who was sometimes +entertained at Knebworth by Sir Rowland Lytton, whom she knighted; he +was buried in the chancel of the little church in the park (see below) +in 1582. The room in which Elizabeth slept on these occasions is still +shown as "Queen Elizabeth's Chamber," and contains a finely carved +over-mantel (oak) and an oaken bedstead of colossal proportions. Among +the distinguished guests so often entertained here by Bulwer Lytton were +Dickens, Forster and Jerrold. + +The grounds are nearly perfect, art and nature seaming to strive to +out-do one another. Well-kept lawns are figured by flower-beds of all +shapes and sizes; the rosery is very large; the great variety of +evergreens imparts every hue and shade to the extensive walks stretching +W. from the house. The lawns are divided here and there by stone +balustrades and overlooked by statues of classical and modern figures. +There are many nooks, pleasure houses and alcoves. A long avenue of +limes leads to the lake. + +The church, a little N. from the house, is approached through lodge +gates. It is for the most part E.E. The oaken pulpit is octagonal; the +finely carved panels represent scenes in the life of Christ, one of them +bears the date 1567. At the N. side of the chancel, which has a piscina, +is the Lytton Chapel, "a little Chapel or Burying Place, built by the +Family of the Lyttons". Among the members of the family buried in the +chapel were (1) Dame Judith Barrington, daughter of Sir Rowland Lytton, +and wife to Sir Thomas Barrington of Hatfield Broad Oak (d. 1657); (2) +Sir William Lytton, Kt. (d. 1660); (3) Sir Rowland Lytton, Kt. (d. +1674). To the Sir Rowland Lytton who died in 1582 (see above) there is a +fine brass with effigy, which also commemorates his wives Margaret and +Anne, and his three children. There are other memorials both in the +church and Lytton Chapel, among which note (1) brass to Simon Bache, +Treasurer of the Household to Henry V. and Canon of St. Paul's (d. +1414); (2) brass to John Hotoft, who filled the same office in the +Household of Henry VI. (d. _circa_ 1430). This brass formerly showed +effigies of Hotoft in armour with his wife beside him. Note also, near +the S. porch, two headstones with interesting inscriptions to servants +of the Lytton family, and close by, in the park, the mausoleum erected +by the mother of the novelist, who was buried within its walls. The +epitaph to her memory on the exterior was written by her son. Passing +out at the lodge gates we may turn left and reach a pretty dip, from +whence a walk of 3 miles N. over open country leads to Stevenage. + +_Knebworth Green_ skirts the S. side of the park. + +_Langley_, a hamlet on the Hatfield-Hitchin road, is 2 miles S.W. from +Stevenage Station (G.N.R.). Langley Bottom is a few minutes' walk N. + +_Langleybury_ (1 mile S. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is +practically part and parcel of Hunton Bridge, the church standing W. and +the village E. of the main road from Watford to Hemel Hempstead. The +church is modern, a Gothic structure; on the S. is a good lich-gate. +Close to the S. porch is the large cross of Sicilian marble, by the +Florentine sculptor Romanelli, to the memory of the late W. J. Loyd, at +whose expense the church was erected. The walk from Langleybury to +Buck's Hill (W.), by way of West Wood, leads through some lovely bits of +scenery, and should on no account be omitted. At the outset the confines +of Grove Park are on the left and the road dips up and down as the woods +are passed, and is shaded by fine beeches in many spots. + +_Layston_ was a village in Saxon times, but nothing now remains save the +ruins of the church, still almost intact, at the meeting of two lanes, 1 +mile N.E. from Buntingford. It is a flint structure, E.E. and Perp. The +S. porch is in part demolished. There are monuments to the Crowch family +of seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. + +LEA, river. (See Introduction, Section II.) + +LEAVESDEN (about 21/2 miles N. from Watford) is a village in the pretty +district between Grove Park and Bricket Wood. The ecclesiastical parish +was formed seventy years ago from the parishes of Watford and St. +Albans. The huge brick building on high ground a little N. is the +Metropolitan District Asylum for Idiots; it was erected in 1869. The +church dates only from the formation of the parish and is situated at +Garston, 1 mile E. It was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott and is E.E. _The +Grove_, a large mansion of red brick, was erected in 1760 by one of the +Villiers family, but has been restored and altered. The house contains a +part of the pictures collected by Clarendon; comprising portraits by +Vandyck, Lely, C. Janssens, Zucchero, Van Somer, Kneller, Hogarth, etc. +The park is extensive and beautiful. + +LEMSFORD is another modern ecclesiastical parish, formed sixty years +ago. It is nearly 3 miles N. from Hatfield, on the S.E. side of _Brocket +Hall Park_. It is widely known for its large mill on the river Lea. The +church, erected in 1859 as a memorial to the sixth Earl Cowper, is E.E. +and Dec., with a good E. window, also to the memory of the earl. The +tower (W.) is lofty and embattled. + +_Letchmore Heath_ (11/2 mile S.W. from Radlett Station, M.R.) is a small +village. + +_Letchworth_ (2 miles N.E. from Hitchin) has a small Perp. church, +containing a curious old brass to Thomas Wyrley, an early Rector (d. +1475). The effigy represents him with a heart in his hands. Another +brass, much defaced, dates from _circa_ 1400; it is to William Overbury +and Isabel his wife. The village, which almost adjoins that of Willian +(_q.v._), is ancient, and was once the property of Robert Gernon, a +Norman warrior who fought at Hastings. There was a church at _Leceworth_ +at least as early as _temp._ Henry I., for during the reign of that +monarch it was given "with all its appurtenances and twelve acres of +land" to the monastery at St. Albans. _Letchworth Hall_, now a manor +house containing some good carved oak, was built by Sir William Lytton +(_circa_ 1620), and still bears on the S. front the arms of that family. + +_Letty Green_ is close to Cole Green Station, G.N.R. + +_Levens Green_ (1 mile S. from Great Munden) has a tiny chapel-of-ease +erected in 1893. The nearest station is Standon, G.E.R., 21/2 miles E., +between which and the hamlet lies the Old North Road. + +LEVERSTOCK GREEN (11/2 mile S.E. from Hemel Hempstead Station, M.R.) is in +a pleasantly diversified district, at the junction of the roads from St. +Albans and Abbot's Langley. It has a modern church, Gothic in style, +erected just before the district was constituted an ecclesiastical +parish in 1850. + +_Ley Green_ is a hamlet 1 mile N. from King's Walden Church, and about 4 +miles S.W. from Hitchin. It is on high ground. + +LILLEY, a village on the Bedfordshire border, is 4 miles N.E. from Luton +(Beds). It was formerly called Lindley, and Lilly Hoo, and the old +manor, like so many others, was given to a Norman (Goisfride de Bech) +for services rendered at Hastings. The church is of ancient foundation, +but was rebuilt, in E. Dec. style, in 1870-71. Several old memorials are +still preserved, notably those to the Docwra family, early seventeenth +century. _Putteridge Bury_ (1 mile S.) is in the centre of a park of 450 +acres; on or near the site of the house built by Thomas Docwra, J.P. and +High Sheriff of Herts, who died there in 1602. The present mansion dates +from the beginning of last century. + +_Little Heath_ is on the Middlesex border, 1 mile N.E. from Potter's Bar +Station. The Dec. church, just off the Barnet-Hatfield road, is new. + +LONDON COLNEY, a village on the main road from Barnet to St. Albans, is +on the river Colne. The nearest station is that of the G.N.R. at St. +Albans, 21/4 miles N.W. The church, built by the third Earl of Hardwicke +in 1825, is a plain brick structure of Gothic character. Half a mile E. +is _Tittenhanger Park_, a large brick mansion with tiled roof and dormer +windows, built by Sir Henry Blount in 1654. The manor had belonged to +the Abbots of St. Albans, who had a residence on the same spot, +commenced during the abbacy of John de la Moote and completed during +that of John Wheathampsted. Henry VIII. and Catherine of Arragon stayed +here during the "sweatinge sicknesse" (1528). + +_Long Lane_ is a hamlet near the river Chess, 11/2 mile S.W. from +Rickmansworth. + +_Long Marston_, 1 mile N. from the Aylesbury Canal, is a village and +ecclesiastical parish in the extreme W. of the county. The nearest +station is Marston Gate, 1 mile N. The old church, a small Dec. +structure, was pulled down twenty years ago with the exception of the +tower, which stands in the disused graveyard. The new building, +adjoining the present burial ground, is Gothic, and contains some +portions of the old structure, and its two piscinae. + +_Lower Green._ (See Tewin.) + +_Ludwick Hyde_ is in the parish of Hatfield, 3 miles N.E. from that +town. + +_Luffenhall_, a little hamlet, is in the hollow between Weston and +Cottered, 5 miles W. from Buntingford Station. The district is one of +winding lanes and field footpaths so characteristic of the county. + +_Lye End_, 2 miles S. from Sandon Church, is a hamlet lying W. from the +Buntingford-Royston road. + +[Illustration: OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END] + +MACKERY END, 11/2 mile N.W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R., is close +to Batford and Pickford mills on the river Lea. Charles and Mary Lamb +had talked about the place "all their lives" and the essay by the former +entitled "Mackery End in Hertfordshire" need only be named here. The +place, as Lamb mentions, was also called Mackarel End. John +Wheathampsted, who became thirty-third Abbot of St. Albans in 1420, was +the son of Hugh Bostok or Bostock of the village from which he took his +name; his mother was the daughter of Thomas Makery, "Lord of Makeyrend". + +_Mangrove_ is a hamlet, partly in Offley and partly in Lilley parishes; +Mangrove Green is on the S. outskirts of Putteridge Bury Park, on the +Bedfordshire border. The nearest station to the latter is Luton (Beds). + +_Maple Cross_, a hamlet 21/2 miles S.W. from Rickmansworth, is near the +river Chess. It lies between Mill End and West Hyde, on the road to +Uxbridge. + +MARAN, or MIMRAM, river. (See Introduction.) + +_Marford_, _Old_ and _New_, are hamlets on the river Lea. The latter +adjoins the E. side of Wheathampstead village; the former lies 1/4 mile +farther E.; the cress-beds, the hand-bridge over the river, and some +dilapidated cottages render it a picturesque spot. On the opposite side +of the road from Hatfield to Wheathampstead lies The Devil's Dyke, a +long, narrow gorge most beautifully wooded. It is a favourite haunt of +the nightingale, as the writer can testify. + +MARKET or MARKYATE STREET (31/2 miles S.W. from Luton, Beds) is a village +on the high road from St. Albans to Dunstable. The church, a little N. +from the village, in Cell Park, is small and uninteresting, with a +chancel added in 1892. The mansion called Markyate Cell, a little +farther N., is old, and occupies the site of the old Benedictine nunnery +built by Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth Abbot of St. Albans, at the +instigation of Roger the Monk, the church of which was consecrated in +1145. Cowper the poet was at school in the village, at the house of Dr. +Pitman. + +MARLOWES is a suburb of Hemel Hempstead (_q.v._). + +_Marsh Moor_ lies between Hatfield Park and Mimms Park. It is a hamlet +in the parish of North Mimms, 2 miles S. from Hatfield. + +_Marston Gate_ is little more than the station (L.&N.W.R.) for Long +Marston, 1 mile S. It is nearly the extreme W. point of the county. + +_Mayden Croft_, or Maiden Croft, is near the source of the river Hiz, +with the hamlet of Gosmore adjoining (S.E.). Some remains of a moat may +be traced, which are supposed to mark the site of a nunnery. The manor +is ancient; in the time of Edward III. it belonged to Sir Robert Nevill, +Kt. + +MEESDON (61/2 miles N.E. from Buntingford) has a very ancient flint +church, probably erected in the thirteenth century, but restored in +1877. The S. porch is Jacobean. The pavement of the Sacrarium is a +mosaic of many coloured, vitrified tiles; it is almost unique in the +county and is undoubtedly of great age. There is also in the chancel a +curious monument and inscription to Robert Young, gent. (d. 1626). Most +of the population are to be found at Meesdon Green, 1/2 mile W. from the +church. + +On _Metley Hill_, between the Icknield Way and the village of +Wallington, may be seen Bush Barrow, one of the many ancient mounds in +the county concerning which so little is known. + +_Micklefield Green_ (1/2 mile E. from Sarratt Church) is near the river +Chess and the Bucks border. The nearest station is Chorley Wood (Met. +R.) 2 miles S.W. The district is varied and undulating. + +MILL END (1 mile S.W. from Rickmansworth) is on the Middlesex border, +close to the river Colne. The church (modern) is late Dec. in style, and +has several good stained windows. The village and parish were only +formed in 1875. There is also a hamlet of this name 11/2 mile S.W. from +Buckland, on the Royston road. + +_Mill Green_, at the N. end of Hatfield Park, is a pretty hamlet on the +Lea, near the old paper mill. + +MIMMS, NORTH (3 miles N.W. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R.), is in one +of the prettiest districts in the county, although so close to +Middlesex. The church and parsonage are in the park, 1/2 mile from the +village. Dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, the church is Dec., unusually +pure in style. It is said to have been built by Sir Hugh de Magneville +(_temp._ Stephen); I should think it more probable that Geoffrey de +Magneville, then Lord of the Manor, was the real founder, as stated by +Chauncy. However this may be, the structure is now almost wholly of +later date. The monuments and brasses are numerous and very interesting; +several of the latter, now in the chancel, were moved from their +original positions on the floor during the restoration sixty years ago. +Among them we may note (1) large black marble monument in chancel +surmounted by a figure of justice, to John Lord Somers, Baron of Evesham +(d. 1716); (2) altar tomb in N. aisle, with Elizabethan effigy, to a +Derbyshire family named Beresford; the inscription is only in part +decipherable; (3) mutilated brass to Sir Robert Knolles (d. 14--), and +to Elizabeth his wife (d. 1458); (4) brass to Sir Henry Covert (d. +1488); (5) fine old brass to Richard Boteler and Martha (Olyff) his wife +(_circa_ 1560); (6) brass, probably of Flemish workmanship, thought to +be a memorial to William Kesteven, vicar (d. 1361). This effigy is +closely described in Murray. "It is apparently Flemish, and resembles in +style that of Abbot de la Mare at St. Albans. He is vested in a chasuble +and stole, has a chalice on his breast, and over him is a rich canopy, +with, on the dexter side, St. Peter, and underneath SS. John the +Evangelist and Bartholomew, and in corresponding places on the sinister +SS. Paul, James the Great, and Andrew, with their respective emblems. +Above is the Almighty holding the soul of the deceased; at the sides +are two angels swinging censers." Separated from the chancel by an oaken +screen is the chantry-chapel of St. Catherine, dating from early +fourteenth century. + +_North Mimms Park_ surrounds the fine Jacobean manor house of red brick, +recently in part restored, but originally built about 1600 by Sir Ralph +Coningsby; it is very extensive and can show some good carving, and a +chimney-piece dating from sixteenth century. E. from this park is +_Potterels_, a modern house standing in another but smaller park, and E. +again from Potterels is the more famous _Brookman's Park_, where, in +1682, Andrew Fountaine erected the mansion soon afterwards purchased by +the great Lord Somers who died here in 1716. The house was completely +burnt down thirty years ago and has only in part been rebuilt. The +further stretch of park adjoining Brookman's on the S. is _Gubbins_, or +more correctly _Gobions_, where formerly stood the old manor house in +which Sir Thomas More lived awhile with his family. The walks in each of +these parks are very fine, and most beautifully wooded; they command +distant views in many directions, and, in the autumn, are a perfect +study in colour. No London cyclist should fail to visit this picturesque +and interesting neighbourhood. + +MIMMS, SOUTH, recently included in the administrative county of Herts, +has a restored, E. Perp. church, with fine massive W. tower. The Frowyk +chantry, at E. end of N. aisle, contains a very ancient tomb with +recumbent effigy of a knight in armour, under a richly designed canopy. +The knight was a Frowyk, and there are also some mutilated brasses to +this family. The village is prettily situated on rising ground, 11/2 mile +W. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R. (Middlesex). + +_Moneybury Hill_ is on the Bucks border, close to the Bridgewater +Column, 2 miles S.W. from Tring Station. + +_Moor Green_ (3 miles W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet +in Ardeley parish. + +_Morrell Green_ is a hamlet 2 miles E. from Barkway on the Essex border. +The nearest station is Buntingford, nearly 6 miles S.E. + +_Mortgrove_, on the Beds border, is little more than a modern house, 11/2 +mile S. from Hexton. + +_Munches Green_ lies in the centre of that quiet district of villages +and hamlets which stretches between the G.N.R. and G.E.R. It is a hamlet +a little S.E. from _Ardeley Bury_ and nearly 4 miles W. from Westmill +Station, G.E.R. + +MUNDEN, GREAT, formerly Mundon Furnival, from Gerrard de Furnival, who +was Lord of the Manor in the time of Richard I., is a village 2 miles W. +from Braughing Station, G.E.R. There is a Norman doorway on the N. side +of the church, and a small Perp. reredos which was discovered during +restoration in 1865. There is a brass in the chancel to John Lightfoot, +Canon of Ely (d. 1675). The hamlet of Nasty, a little N.E. from the +church, now takes Munden Furnival as its alternative name, but the older +historians give that title to the district around the parish church. + +MUNDEN, LITTLE, or Munden Frewell, is 21/4 miles S.W. from the above, and +4 miles W. from Standon Station, G.E.R. The church, conspicuously placed +on the hill, dates from the thirteenth century; it was restored in +1866-68. It is a structure of many parts, consisting of nave of three +bays, chancel, N. chapel, N. aisle, N. and S. porches, and W. tower. +Note the two altar tombs beneath the chancel arcade, at the S. side of +the chapel, each supporting the stone effigies of a male and female, +presumably man and wife. They bear no inscriptions, but from the arms +and shields figured on one of them it is conjectured to be the tomb of +Sir John Thornbury, Kt., and his lady; whilst the other is probably that +of his son Philip Thornbury and his wife: the former dates from about +1340-50. Early in the fourteenth century the manor belonged to a Knight +named Frewell or de Freville, hence the old adjunct of the village. +_Rowney Abbey_, now a modern mansion, takes its name from Rowenea +Priory, founded by Conan, Duke of Brittany, about 1164, and occupied for +several generations by a Benedictine prioress and nuns. At Munden +Street, or Dane End, 1/4 mile S. from Little Munden, were formerly two or +three large tumuli, long since levelled. + +_Nash Mills_, on the river Gade, is a hamlet in the parish of Apsley +End, 2 miles S. from Hemel Hempstead. The House was the seat of Sir +John Evans, K.C.B., F.R.S., etc., the great archaeologist, who had a rich +collection of coins, prehistoric flints, implements, etc., some of which +were discovered in the neighbourhood. + +_Nettleden_ was formerly in Bucks, but was transferred to Herts a few +years ago. The village is beautifully situated at the foot of a wooded +hill, at the meeting of the roads from Great Gaddesden and Little +Gaddesden. The small parish church is a Perp. structure of stone, with a +N. porch; it was partly rebuilt by the last Duke of Bridgewater, and was +restored in 1887. Note the carved oak pulpit, which, like that in Little +Gaddesden Church, was the gift of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888). Sir John +Cotton, Vice-Chamberlain to Edward VI., was buried here. The nearest +station is Berkhampstead, L.&N.W.R., 21/2 miles S.W. + +_New Mill_ is 1 mile N. from Tring, between the hamlets of Little Tring +and Tring Grove. The famous reservoirs, often the resting-place of rare +water-fowl, are within a short walk. + +_Newgate Street_, a small hamlet in Hatfield parish, is, however, 6 +miles S.E. from that town. It is in a prettily wooded district, close to +_Ponsbourne Park_. + +NEWNHAM (21/2 miles N. from Baldock) is a village lying on high ground, +with an E.E. battlemented church on a little knoll above a brook. It +consists of chancel, nave of four bays with clerestory, S. aisle and +porch, and W. tower. The interior can show little of interest, but there +are brasses, (1) on chancel floor, to Sir William Dyer, Bart. (d. +1680); (2) to a family, the man in civic costume (_circa_ 1490); (3) to +Joan, wife of James Dowman (d. 1607), and her eight children. + +_Newsell_, a hamlet 1 mile N. from Barkway, lies a little W. from the +Cambridge Road. The nearest station is Royston, G.N.R., 31/2 miles N.W. +Newsell Park is a modern mansion S. from the hamlet. + +_No Man's Land_ is a large tract of common, partly covered by furze, +stretching left from the road between Sandridge and Wheathampstead. Some +years ago a farmer close by collected quite a museum of stuffed birds, +etc., shot in the neighbourhood, which many persons visited, but I +understand the collection is now dispersed. + +In 1884 Sir John Evans showed to Mr. W. G. Smith "a good white ovate +palaeolithic implement," one of two found on No Man's Land Common. In +December, 1886, Mr. Smith visited the gravel pits there and found a +somewhat similar implement _in situ_; this latter is engraved in his +_Man the Primaeval Savage_. At the same time Mr. Smith found two +neolithic celts on the common. + +_Nobland Green_ (11/4 mile N.W. from Widford Station, G.E.R.) is little +more than a farm and a few cottages. + +NORTHAW (2 miles E. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R.) is a village on +the Middlesex border, near the source of the river Colne, and a place of +considerable interest. In the wood N. from the village there lived a +hermit named Sigar, the subject of some monkish legends. He lived about +the time of Henry I., and was buried beside Roger the Monk (see Markyate +Street) in the S. aisle of the Baptistery of St. Alban's Abbey. There +was originally a small church close to the village, E.E. or perhaps late +Norman; this was replaced by the cruciform church of St. Thomas Becket, +a pseudo-Perp. structure, destroyed by fire in 1881; the present +cruciform building of Ancaster stone is Dec. with a conspicuous W. tower +carrying four pinnacles. Note the piscina, three sedilia and credence +table in chancel; also the finely carved font of Ancaster stone, on +marble pillars, presented by the children of the parish. There are +several memorial windows, of only local interest; but the pulpit and +reredos are both good, the former showing the four Evangelists in +canopied recesses. Unfortunately, only a portion of the old registers +were saved from the fire of 1881. + +NORTHCHURCH, or Berkhampstead St. Mary, forms one long street with Great +Berkhampstead, but is a separate village, 1 mile W. from Berkhampstead +Station, L.&N.W.R. The cruciform church is Dec.; it stands in a small +graveyard close to the high road to Tring. The most curious memorial is +the brass near the porch to Peter the Wild Boy, who was found wild in a +forest in Hanover in 1725 and brought to England at the desire of Queen +Caroline. He lived at a farm at Broadway (_q.v._) and died in 1785. +There is also a curious sentence about this church in Chauncy: "Henry +Axtil, a rich Man starved himself, and was buried here April 12, 1625, 1 +Car. I." The church was entirely restored in 1883, when the present N. +aisle was added. + +_Northfield_, a small hamlet, is a little S. from Ivinghoe (Bucks). + +NORTON, near the tiny river Ivel and the Roman Icknield Way, is 1 mile +W. from Baldock. The large building on the hill-top close by is the +Three Counties Asylum. The manor belonged to the Abbot of St. Albans at +the time of the Conquest; and in the year 1260 Roger de Norton, who took +his name from this village, became the twenty-fourth abbot of that +monastery. The church, E.E., is of great antiquity, some parts of it +having been little altered; it is of flint, and stands at the N.E. end +of the village. It contains two or three old memorials, but none of +historic interest. A pretty walk from the church leads through Norton +Bury and beside the Ivel to Radwell Mill. + +_Norton Green_, between Knebworth Park and Stevenage, is 1/2 mile W. from +the Great North Road. It is a small hamlet. + +_Nup End_ (11/2 mile W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is almost one with +Knebworth Green. Codicote church is 1 mile S.W. + +_Nuthampstead_ (about 5 miles N.E. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) is +a large hamlet on the Essex border. The parish churches of Barkway (W.), +Anstey (S.W.), and Meesdon (S.E.) may all be reached within a short +walk. + +OFFLEY or OFFLEY ST. LEGER (3 miles S.W. from Hitchin) is a village at +the meeting of the ways from Hitchin, Temple Dinsley, and Lilley. It +owes its name to Offa, King of the Mercians, who had a palace here, as +we learn from his life by Matthew Paris, and its adjunct to the St. +Legiers, who became Lords of the Manor soon after the Conquest. Miss +Hester Salusbury, who became Mrs. Thrale, and afterwards Mrs. Piozzi, +used as a child to visit at _Offley Place_, in the park close to the +church. The old mansion was built by Sir Richard Spencer in 1600, and in +part rebuilt early last century, when its style was changed from +Jacobean to a form of Gothic. + +The church (restored Perp.) stands in the park, close to the road. Note +(1) monument in chancel to Sir H. Penrice, Kt. (d. 1752); a figure of +Truth standing on a sarcophagus of black marble, the whole finely +executed; (2) monument in white marble, by Nollekens, to Sir Thomas +Salusbury, Kt. (d. 1773), and Sarah his wife (d. 1804); (3) brass with +effigy, to John Samwell (d. 1529), and his wives Elizabeth and Joan; (4) +brass to a civilian and his family (_circa_ 1530); (5) well carved Perp. +font. + +_Offley, Little_, is a hamlet 11/4 mile N.W. from the above. + +_Offley Green_ is 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R. The walk +beside Julians[l] Park to Rushden, 1 mile S.W., is very pleasant. + +_Offley Holes_ (21/2 miles S.W. from Hitchin) is a small hamlet. Offley +Grange, Offley Hoo, Offley Cross and Offley Bottom are all in the +immediate neighbourhood, W. and N.W. + +_Old Hall Green_ (11/2 mile W. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) lies W. from +the Old North Road. It is a small hamlet. + +OXHEY (2 miles S. from Watford) is a hamlet on the Middlesex border. It +has a good modern church, E.E. in style. N. lies _Oxhey Place_, on the +site of the old home of the Heydon family, rebuilt by Sir William +Bucknall in 1668, and again by Hon. William Bucknall in 1799. The +chapel, close to the old mansions, was spared by both those renovators, +but has since been repeatedly restored. It contains many interesting +monuments, conspicuous among which is that on the S. wall to Sir James +Altham (d. 1617) who had built the chapel on the site of an earlier +structure in 1612. The old judge is represented kneeling in his robes +between two pillars, beneath a canopy of alabaster; behind him is the +effigy of his third wife Helen (Saunderson). Note the carved oak +seventeenth century reredos, occupying the whole of the E. end of the +chapel. It is divided into three compartments by two columns, massive +and twisted, with Corinthian capitals; these support a frieze, with +cornice and pediment. Note also the oak ceiling, and the five Tudor +windows (replaced). _Oxhey Hall_, N.W. from the chapel, is now a farm; +but can still show the wonderful ceiling of carved oak, in sixteen +panels, which must be very ancient. + +PANSHANGER PARK, Lord Desborough, K.C.V.O, should be visited by all who +love an historic home surrounded by beautiful scenery. It lies almost +midway between Hatfield and Ware Parks; the house itself is 11/2 mile N. +from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. The park is very extensive (about 900 +acres); the river Maran flows through it from W. to S.E., opening into a +lake S. from the house. It is famous for its splendid timber; the +wonderful "Panshanger Oak," one of the very largest in England, stands +W. from the house. + +Panshanger is not a "correct" structure from an architectural +standpoint; the writer of Murray's Handbook describes it well as "a +stucco-fronted, semi-castellated Gothic mansion of the Walpole-Wyatt +type". Most ramblers, however, are not architects, and the grey stone +mansion and its surroundings are, as a whole, as picturesque as they can +well be. The greater part of it was built by Peter, fifth Earl Cowper, +in 1801; but the picture gallery, overlooking the terrace and gardens, +was a later addition. The house was partially burnt in 1855. The older +home of the family stood at Cole Green--then called Colne Green. + +The famous _Cowper Collection_ is largely the result of the taste and +perseverance of the third earl, who resided for some years at Florence. +Only a few of the pictures can be named here: Madonna, by Raphael +(1508); Holy Family, by Fra Bartolommeo; Mountainous Coast (fishermen in +foreground), by Salvator Rosa; Nativity, by Carlo Dolce; Virgin +Enthroned, by Paul Veronese; Third Earl Cowper and His Family; First +Earl Cowper, by Sir Godfrey Kneller; Francis Bacon, by Van Somer; +Turenne, by Rembrandt; Charles Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, by +Janssens. The whole collection is worth careful study. Permission to +view may be obtained when the family are away. + +PARK STREET, a large hamlet with station 1/3 mile W. (L.&N.W.R.), is on +the river Colne, 2 miles S. from St. Albans. The parish church is at +Frogmore (_q.v._). + +_Parker's Green_ (4 miles S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) is a +hamlet adjoining Wood End. + +_Patient End_ may be reached from Braughing Station, G.E.R., 4 miles +S.E., the road being more direct than that from Westmill Station, about +the same distance as the crow flies. The hamlet lies between Albury and +Furneaux Pelham. + +_Patmore Heath_ is 1 mile S.E. from the above. + +_Pepperstock_, a hamlet on the Beds border, is a little W. from the +Harpenden-Luton road, and close to Luton Hoo Park. + +_Perry Green_ (11/4 mile S.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R.) is a small +scattered hamlet. + +_Peter's Green_, on the Beds border, lies at the meeting of several +roads; the Half Moon and Rising Star with a few cottages comprise the +hamlet. The descent W. towards Chiltern Green Station, M.R., commands a +fine view, looking towards Luton Hoo Park. The several ways (one is +hardly more than a lane) lead S.E. to Kimpton, S. to Harpenden, N. to +Lawrence End Park, and N.E. to Breachwood Green and Bendish. + +_Piccotts End_ is passed when going from Hemel Hempstead to Great +Gaddesden. It is on the river Gade, at the N.E. extremity of Gadesbridge +Park. + +_Pin Green_ (11/2 mile E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) lies between the +Great North Road and the river Beane. + +PIRTON (31/2 miles N.W. from Hitchin) is an ancient village on the Beds +border, said to owe its name to one Peri, who possessed it in Saxon +times. William I. gave it to Ralph de Limesie, or Limesy, who founded +the church and gave the tithes of it to the Abbey of St. Albans. The +site of the castle built by Ralph is thought to be at Toot Hill, W. from +the church, where a moat may be traced. The church was originally +cruciform, but the transepts have long disappeared; the tower, massive +and embattled, still standing between nave and chancel. Restoration has +been carefully carried on recently; the tower was rebuilt in 1877, but +some Norman work may still be traced in its arches. Note (1) monument +and curious inscription to Jane, wife of Thomas Docwra (d. 1645); (2) +double piscina, fourteenth century, in S. wall of chancel. + +Pirton should be visited for the fine old houses in its neighbourhood. +_High Down_, S. from the church, is Elizabethan, with gables, twisted +chimneys and mullioned windows; it was formerly the home of the Docwras. +_Pirton Hall_, on a hill N.W. from the village, is also Elizabethan, and +the _Rectory Manor House_ and _Hammond's Farm_ are both ancient. In the +latter is some fine old carved oak. + +_Plummers_ is 11/2 mile S.W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R. It consists of +a few cottages. + +_Ponfield_ lies between Bedwell and Bayfordbury Parks. It is a small +hamlet nearly 2 miles S.E. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. + +_Poplar's Green_ is on the river Maran, on the W. edge of Panshanger +Park. The old church at Tewin is less than 1 mile N.W. The station is +Cole Green. + +_Potten End_ (2 miles N.E. from Berkhampstead Station, L.&N.W.R.) has a +modern chapel-of-ease to Nettleden (1 mile N.). The hamlet is prettily +situated between the rivers Gade and Bulbourne. + +PRESTON (4 miles W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +beautifully situated on high ground. The Church of St. Martin is a small +building a few yards W. from the green, a modern erection; close by is +the Bunyan Chapel, and 1/2 mile N. is Bunyan's dell, where the author of +the _Pilgrim's Progress_ often preached. _Temple Dinsley_, a manor house +a little E. from the Red Lion, stands on the site of the preceptory of +the Knights Templars, founded by Bernard de Baliol in the reign of +Stephen. + +_Primrose Hill_ is a hamlet in King's Langley parish, 1/2 mile N. from the +station, L.&N.W.R. + +PUCKERIDGE, a village on the Old North Road, nearly 1 mile S.W. from +Braughing Station, G.E.R., was visited by Pepys on more than one +occasion. Here, at the White Hart Inn, the road divides, going left +nearly due N. to Royston and right to Cambridge. The village lies partly +in Standon and partly in Braughing parish. The nearest church is at +Standon, 1 mile S.E., but divine service is conducted in the church +schoolroom. + +_Puddephats_ (3 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet in +Flamstead parish. + +_Purwell Mill_, on the river Purwell or Pirrel, 1 mile E. from Hitchin, +stands near the spot where the tesselated pavement of a Roman villa was +discovered many years ago, in excellent preservation. + +PUTTENHAM (11/2 mile S. from Marston Gate Station, L.&N.W.R.) lies near +the Clinton chalk hills, in the extreme W. of the county, on the Bucks +border. The church, close to the village, is of several periods, parts +of the structure being E.E. and other portions Perp. and Tudor. Several +portions should be carefully noted: (1) very large embattled W. tower, +built of blocks of Ketton stone with flints laid in squares between each +block; (2) roof of nave, thought to date from _temp._ Edward IV.; with +two shields under the ridges, one bearing the arms of Zouch, the church +having belonged to the Priory of Ashby; (3) solid oak pews, probably +coeval with nave roof. The S. porch was rebuilt in 1889. The vill of +Puteham belonged to Leofwin, brother to Harold Godwin; William I. gave +it to his half-brother, Odo, Bishop of Bayeux. + +_Queen Hoo Hall._ (See Bramfield.) + +_Rabley Heath_ (1 mile S.W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) adjoins +Sallow Wood. Knebworth and Codicote churches are about equidistant (11/4 +mile), N.W. and S.W. respectively. + +RADLETT, with station on M.R. (main line), is about 5 miles S. from St. +Albans, on the high-road from the Marble Arch to that city. Seen left +from the train the neighbourhood is very pretty, the spire of the church +showing among the trees some distance before the station is reached. The +cruciform church is modern (1864), E. Dec. in style, with several good +windows of stained glass. A picturesque ramble may be taken by turning +into any lane in the vicinity, especially towards the Valley of the +Colne, W. A potter's kiln of the Roman Age was discovered here. + +RADWELL, on the Beds border, is in a charming district, threaded by the +little river Ivel, 11/2 mile N.N.W. from Baldock. The mill is reached by +turning left after passing The Compasses, a quaint old inn, where a +story is told of the "Maid of the Mill," a local beauty, who captured +many hearts in days long past.[5] Between The Compasses and the mill +stands the little Perp. church, very ancient, but in part restored on +several occasions. It has no tower, the two bells hanging in a small +turret at the W. end of nave. Here, as at Norton, there are several +memorials to the Pym family; and a few others worth noting: (1) brass, +with effigies, to John Bell, Gent. (d. 1516), and his two wives; this +was discovered during restoration, about twenty-five years ago, but the +inscription was copied by Chauncy, so it must have been hidden by some +alterations effected after, say, 1690; (2) marble monument to John +Parker, Kt. (d. 1595), and Mary, his wife (d. 1574); the latter was +buried at Baldock. There is also a small brass to Elizabeth (Gage or +Cage), wife of John Parker (d. 1602). The font is fourteenth century. +Radwell, formerly Reedwell, is said to owe its name to the many reeds +that grew by the river-side. There are plenty of moor hens, coots and +dab-chicks on the lake-like expansion of the Ivel near the mill. + +[Footnote 5: The story of the "Maid of the Mill" is, I understand, told +in an early number of _Temple Bar_.] + +_Red Heath_ is in the parish of Croxley Green, 2 miles N.N.E. from +Rickmansworth. + +_Red Hill_, 4 miles E. from Baldock, is a small hamlet in a very quiet +neighbourhood. The nearest church is at Wallington, 3/4 mile N.W. +_Julians_, a substantial house in the park, 1/2 mile S., was built early +in the seventeenth century. + +REDBOURN (_i.e._, the road by the burn) lies on the old Watling Street, +4 miles N.W. from St. Albans. The river Ver, here a small stream, skirts +the E. side of the village. The old manor, like that of Abbots Langley, +was given to the Abbey of St. Albans by Egelwine the Black and +Wincelfled, his wife, in the days of Edward the Confessor. St. +Amphibalus was probably buried here after his martyrdom; his barrow was +on the Common, and the story of the removal of his bones to St. Albans +is narrated in Matthew Paris, and is referred to in the Introduction +(Section IX.). The church of St. Mary, at Church End, 3/4 mile W. from the +station (M.R.), dates from Norman times; the only existing portions of +the ancient structure are the three columns of the N. aisle arcade, but +much thirteenth and fourteenth centuries work still stands. It was +largely rebuilt by Abbot John Wheathampsted (_temp._ Henry VI.). Note +(1) almost unique carved oak rood screen, double canopied; (2) pointed +arches of S. side of nave, replacing those defaced during the +Commonwealth; (3) Eastern sepulchre and sedilia in chancel; (4) piscinae +in N. aisle and lady-chapel; (5) brass in chancel, with eight kneeling +effigies, without date; (6) brass in chancel to Richard Pecock, or Pekok +(d. 1512). There are silk and corn mills on the Ver, close by. + +REED lies on the chalk range, midway between Buntingford and Royston, +about 31/2 miles S. from Royston Station, G.N.R. The village lies right +from the Old North Road. One of the best Norman doorways in the county +is on the N. of the little church, which also contains good Dec. +portions. The tower alone was untouched during the restoration of sixty +years ago. Some remains of two moats are a little E. from the village; +Reed End, Reed Green and Reed Wood, are in the vicinity. The +neighbourhood is less wooded and picturesque than most of the county. + +_Revel End_ (11/2 mile S.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet. + +RICKMANSWORTH is in the extreme S.W. of the county; the rivers Colne, +Chess, and Gade unite here, close to the Grand Junction Canal; and it is +easy to understand why the place was formerly called "Rykemereswearth," +_i.e._, the rich moor-meadow. It is a compact little town with many +quaint houses and quainter by-paths. The residence now called _Basing +House_, in the High Street, was for some time the home of William Penn, +the Quaker; a photograph of it was long since reproduced in the +_Quiver_. The manor was given by Offa to the Abbots of St. Albans, who +retained it till the Dissolution, after which Edward VI. granted it to +Nicholas Ridley, Bishop of London. Henry III. granted a market to be +held in the town every Wednesday; it was subsequently held on Saturday, +but has long been discontinued. Paper-making and brewing are now largely +carried on in the neighbourhood. + +The church, at the S. end of Church Street, was rebuilt (except the +tower) in 1826; and again in 1870, from designs by Sir Arthur Blomfield. +It is Perp., almost entirely embattled, and is constructed of flints, +with stone dressings. Note (1) sedilia, piscina and modern oak stalls +in chancel; (2) restored marble altar tomb carrying shield of arms, and +inscription to Sir Henry Cary, Baron of Leppington and Earl of Monmouth +(d. 1661); (3) brass with effigy to Thomas Day (d. 1613), and his wives +Alice (d. 1585), and Joane (d. 1598); a separate inscription in the +"Ashbie Chapple" ran--I am not sure if it is still preserved:-- + + "Here ly byrid undyr this stone + Thomas Davy and his two Wyfs Alice and Joan". + +The vicarage is thought to be the oldest in Hertfordshire; it still +retains portions dating from the middle of the fifteenth century. + +One mile S. is _Moor Park_ (Lord Ebury). The house has undergone many +changes. George Nevil, Archbishop of York, built a house in the park in +the reign of Edward IV., and sometimes entertained that monarch, and we +read of a lodge (was it Nevil's house?) being here when Cardinal Wolsey +owned the manor of "More Park". The estate changed hands several times +before we find it in the hands of the unfortunate James Fitzroy, Duke of +Monmouth, who is believed to have built a large mansion on the site of +the present house. This mansion was almost rebuilt by B. H. Styles, a +man who made a fortune over South Sea Shares, and is said to have spent +L130,000 in erecting and adorning his house in this beautiful park, with +the assistance of the architect Leoni. The house that Styles built still +largely survives in the present structure, after several alterations +and much embellishment during eighteenth, nineteenth and twentieth +centuries. It is a large and stately mansion of Portland stone, with +fine Corinthian portico, the columns of which are about 50 feet high. +The vast hall was almost covered with classical and mediaeval designs by +Sir James Thornhill, who had to sue Styles before he could obtain his +remuneration; note the huge statues supporting the five marble doorways. +The house may be seen to advantage some distance from the terrace; but +it must be remembered that it no longer retains its wings, which were +removed when Mr. T. B. Rous lived at Moor Park towards the end of the +eighteenth century. + +Permission must be obtained before the park, grounds or house can be +inspected. The park contains about 500 acres and is famous for its +splendid timber, some of its oaks being of almost perfect development +and proportions. + +[Illustration: RICKMANSWORTH] + +_Rickmansworth Park_, N. from the town, has a modern house well +situated. The park stretches nearly to Loudwater Mill on the river +Chess, and is, like Moor Park, beautifully wooded. + +RIDGE (21/2 miles S.W. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R.) is on the +Middlesex border, close to South Mimms. The village doubtless owes its +name to its situation on the hill. The small church is mainly Perp., but +the chancel is E. Dec.; it contains several memorials to the Blount +family, including one to Charles Blount (1654-93). He was an infidel of +more bitterness than ability, as may be seen from his translation of +Philostratus's _Apollonius Tyanaeus_; readers may remember that his _Just +Vindication of Learning_, etc., was stigmatised by Macaulay as "garbled +extracts" from Milton's _Areopagitica_. On being refused a licence to +marry his deceased wife's sister, he committed suicide--Pope says he +"despatch'd himself". The Blount family resided in the neighbourhood for +many generations; Sir Henry Pope Blount, father of the above-mentioned +Charles, "built here a fair structure of Brick, made fair Walks and +Gardens to it, and died seiz'd thereof". He was the author of _A Voyage +into the Levant_. + +_Ringshall_ is a hamlet on the Bucks border, in the parish of Little +Gaddesden. + +_Roe Green_ (4 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) is in a pleasant +and very quiet neighbourhood. The nearest parish church is Sandon, about +1 mile N.E. Roe Wood is a little N. from the hamlet. + +_Roestock_, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is 1 mile N. from the +Park. Smallford Station, G.N.R., is 1 mile N.W. + +_Round Bush_ consists of a few cottages, 11/2 mile S.W. from Radlett +Station, M.R. + +_Row Green_ (11/4 mile S.W. from Hatfield) lies close to the road from St. +Albans to Hatfield. Row Hyde is a little farther S.W. + +_Rowley Green_, on the road from Barnet Gate to Shenley, is nearly 2 +miles E. from Elstree Station, M.R. + +[Illustration: THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON] + +ROYSTON, an ancient market town on the Icknield Way at its junction +with Ermine Street, was until recently partly in Cambs. It is supposed +to owe its name to a Dame Roesia who placed a cross here on the highway, +near which spot a monastery of Black Canons was founded by Eustace de +Mere and others in the reign of Henry II. Early in the reign of Henry +IV. the town was almost destroyed by fire. Royston enjoyed several +market privileges in the good old days, and it is recorded that early in +the fifteenth century wheat was so plentiful that it was sold in Royston +market for 12d. a quarter. + +The church was erected close to the monastery late in the thirteenth +century, and at the Dissolution was constituted the parish church. +Thirty years ago it was restored, and more recently enlarged, and is now +an imposing structure of flint and rubble, E.E. in style. The tower (W.) +is embattled and carries four pinnacles. The fine lancet windows in the +chancel were discovered during restoration in 1872, as were also the +fragments of the old screen, since pieced together to form the present +pulpit and reading desk. The alabaster effigy in the chancel, of a +knight in armour, is believed to represent one of the Scales family. +There are several old brasses: (1) to William Taberam, Rector of +Therfield (d. 1432), this was large, but only the upper part now +remains; (2) to a civilian and his wife (_circa_ 1500); (3) to Father +William Chamber, who founded an annual sermon to be preached in the +church on Rogation Mondays (d. 1546). There are some good modern windows +of stained glass. + +James I., who had been entertained at Royston by Robert Chester during +his progress from Scotland to London, built a lodge near Royston Heath, +to which both he and Charles I. occasionally resorted, the latter being +brought here as prisoner in 1647. Some cottages still standing on the +outskirts of the Heath are said to have been used for stables when James +I. used to hunt in the neighbourhood, and by inquiring for the "Old +Palace" visitors will be shown what little remains of his Majesty's +hunting lodge. The Heath is now famous for its fine golf links. + +Beneath the old boundary between the two counties, and close to the Post +Office, is the famous _Royston Cave_, which visitors should not fail to +see. It was accidentally discovered in 1742 by some men who were digging +a hole in the market-place, and is now entered by a specially +constructed passage under the street. It was visited by Louis XVIII. +Hewn out of the solid chalk, its greatest height is about 25 ft., its +diameter about 17 ft. It contains curious, and in some cases uncouth +figures and coloured reliefs of saints, kings, queens, etc., of all +sizes and ages, and some crucifixes. The late Joseph Beldam, F.S.A., was +of opinion that the cave dates from pre-Christian times, that it became +in turn a Roman sepulchre and an oratory, and that it was closed during +the Reformation. + +There are still the traces of several tumuli in the neighbourhood, and +ancient coins, etc., have been found, but the evidences of any Roman +occupation are not very convincing. + +Royston is a somewhat quaint town, with some narrow byways and +odd-looking houses, amongst which the Old Plough Inn is not the least +noticeable. + +_Rush Green_ (1 mile S. from Ware) is a small hamlet. + +_Rushden_, formerly Risendene and Risden (5 miles S.E. from Baldock), +has a stuccoed brick church, Dec. and Perp. Chauncy saw in it, "no +Inscription, Monument, or other Remark," but in 1754 the monument of Sir +Adolphus Meetkerke, Kt., was brought here from St. Botolph's, +Aldersgate. Meetkerke was Ambassador from Flanders to the Court of Queen +Elizabeth, and the author of several volumes. Note the canopy in nave, +thought to have covered a statue of the Virgin. In the reign of Henry +II. the patronage of the church was given by William Basset, Sheriff of +Leicestershire, to the Canons and Church of St. Peter's at Dunstable. + +_Rustling Green_ is midway between Knebworth and St. Paul's Walden +Parks. The district is prettily diversified by small woods. By the +shortest way through the park Knebworth Station is about 31/2 miles E. + +THE RYE HOUSE, on the W. bank of the river Lea, is a famous resort of +fishermen, excursionists and folk wishing to see the Great Bed of Ware, +brought here from Ware in 1869. The bed is a huge construction of solid +oak, quaintly carved, and large enough to hold twelve adults, as is +proved by a story which can readily be found by the curious, but which +is unfit for repetition in these pages. It is alluded to by Shakespeare, +Byron and other writers. The present Rye House is modern, but attached +to it are some remains of the old House, some account of which must be +given here. + +In his description of the "Mannor of the Rye" Chauncy says, "King Henry +VI. granted licence to Andrew Ogard and others, that they might impark +the scite of the Mannor of Rye, otherwise called the Isle of Rye in +Stansted Abbot, fifty Acres of Land, eleven Acres of Meadow, eight Acres +of Pasture and Sixteen Acres of Wood, erect a Castle there with Lime and +Stone, make Battlements and Loopholes &c."[6] The castle built by Ogard +passed into the hands of the Baesh family; it was doubtless in part +rebuilt at different times, for what remains of it is of brick. In +course of time it became the property of Lieut., afterwards Col., +Rumbold, known as "Hannibal" among his associates, who had been a +private in Fairfax's famous regiment of 1648. This man was the +originator of the _Rye House Plot_. + +[Footnote 6: _Hist. Antiq. of Hertfordshire_, etc., vol. i., p. 383, ed. +1826.] + +The story of that plot may be recapitulated in few words. In the spring +of 1683 Charles II. and James Duke of York were at Newmarket. Rumbold +and some of his ultra-Republican friends heard that the Royal party +would return to London by way of Rye House. They met together and +arranged to secrete some men in the house, to create a disturbance as +the King passed and to kill him in the confusion which would follow. The +King escaped--probably, as most writers agree, because he left Newmarket +earlier than was expected. The plot soon became known, the Rye House was +searched and many persons were charged with High Treason. Two +illustrious men became implicated, through the allegations of Howard of +Escrick and others--Algernon Sidney and Lord Russell. Both were +certainly innocent, but both were beheaded, and Russell was buried at +Chenies in Bucks (almost on the Herts border). Rumbold fled to Holland, +joined the expedition which Argyle headed in Scotland, and was hanged in +Edinburgh in 1685. Visitors to the neighbourhood of the Rye House will +perhaps be assured that Rumbold suffered on a tree near by, but such was +not the case. + +SACOMBE (4 miles N.W. from Ware) lies scattered over a considerable +district. It was long ago called Suevecamp (_i.e._, Suaviscampus) +because of its pleasant situation. The small Dec. church stands on the +hill, at the N. end of the Park; it is of ancient foundation, but was +entirely restored about fifty years ago. There are two sedilia and a +piscina in the chancel, and two brasses, to John Dodyngton and Eleanor +his wife (d. 1544 and 1550 respectively). Sacombe Park is beautifully +timbered; the present house of red brick dates from about 1800. + +ST. ALBANS is one of the most ancient and interesting places in England; +it became a city on the foundation of the Bishopric of St. Albans in +1877. It may be approached by road from London, (1) by way of Barnet and +London Colney, the G.N.R. Station (branch from Hatfield) being passed on +the left nearly a mile from the old clock tower and market-place; (2) by +way of Edgware, Elstree and Radlett, by which route, after passing St. +Stephens, the L.&N.W.R. Station (branch from Watford) is on the right +and the steep Holywell Hill leading to High Street is straight before. +The river Ver skirts the entire S. limits of the city itself; the field +that slopes upwards from the silk mill, in a N. direction, is called the +Abbey Orchard, and on the summit of the slope stands the great Abbey of +St. Alban. + +As the ancient Roman city--the _Verulamium_ of Antoninus--stood some +distance to the W., a brief account of it will be found under the +heading Verulam. The history of St. Albans itself commences with the +death of Alban, the proto-martyr of Britain, who was flogged with rods +and beheaded by the Romans for having sheltered the priest Amphibalus, +connived at his escape, and adopted his faith (_circa_ 285-305; the +date is very uncertain). During the fifth century the Saxons captured +and destroyed Verulam and built a new town on the hill some distance E. +This they named _Watlingceaster_ (the town on Watling Street), but when +(793) Offa built a monastery to the memory of Alban on Holmhurst Hill, +the traditionary site of the martyrdom, the town itself became known as +St. Albans. Gildas, Bede and other old authorities agree that an earlier +church stood on this spot; they state, indeed, that it was built soon +after the death of St. Alban. + +The plan of the city is, like the Abbey, cruciform, four old high-roads +meeting together near the Clock Tower, N.W. from Dunstable, S.W. from +Watford, S.E. from London, N.E. from Wheathampstead. The latter unites +with the road from Harpenden and Luton at The Cricketers, 1/4 mile N.W. +from St. Peter's Church. The four roads, on entering the city, are +respectively called Verulam Road, Holywell Hill, London Road and St. +Peter's Street; one of the oldest thoroughfares, however, is that called +Fishpool Street, which runs from near the W. end of the Abbey to the +flour mill on the Ver. Quite recently several of the oldest houses in +the neighbourhood were in this street; but some have now been pulled +down. + +[Illustration: THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBAN'S + _The oldest Inn in England_] + +We will enter the city from the direction of St. Stephens. Crossing the +bridge over the Ver, we turn left by the Duke of Marlborough, pass +through the gate near the river side and keeping the cress-beds on +the left reach the silk mill. Turning right we ascend the hill W. of the +Abbey orchard, obtaining meanwhile a fine view of the stately W. front +of the Abbey itself, as reconstructed by Lord Grimthorpe. Our way into +the city lies through the old, partially ivy-clad _Gate House_, a relic +of the Benedictine Monastery; note the Perp. pointed arch and vaulted +roof. This was originally the entrance to the Abbey court, the "Magna +Porta" of the old monastic days. There was a former structure on or near +the same spot; this was blown down and the present building dates from +the rule of Thomas de la Mere, thirtieth abbot (1349-96). Used as a jail +some centuries ago, it has long been known as St. Alban's _Grammar +School_; the battlemented house S.W. of the archway is the residence of +the head master. The claims of this school to be _the oldest in England_ +cannot be adequately discussed here. Suffice it to say that documents +attesting its existence date from Abbot Richard de Albini (1097-1119); +his successor, Geoffrey de Gorham, came from Normandy to become its +master. Matthew Paris records that the school was afterwards kept by a +nephew of Abbot Warine (or Warren) de Cambridge, and had at that time +more scholars than any school in England. Passing through the arch we +notice on the left a small, triangular burial ground. The spot is called +Romeland. Here George Tankerville was burnt by order of Bishop Bonner, +on 26th August, 1556. + +Passing straight forward into Spicer Street the _Congregational +Chapel_, founded in 1797, is on the right. A little farther on is +College Street; on the left side stands the house in which Cowper was +placed under the charge of Dr. Cotton when his insanity was most +pronounced. To reach the old _Clock Tower_ we turn right into Verulam +Street and left into High Street. The Tower stands at the S. end of the +Market Place; note the quaint, narrow thoroughfare at its W. side, +called French Row. The Tower is Perp., of flint and dressed stone, +battlemented, and surmounted by a small spire; the basement has long +been utilised as a saddler's shop. It dates from the fifteenth +century,[7] but was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1864. In it hangs +the great bell "Gabriel" cast early in the reign of Edward III.; it is +now used for striking the hour and formerly tolled the curfew. In the +foreground, where the drinking fountain now stands, was "Eleanor's +Cross," erected, like the cross at Waltham (_q.v._), by Edward I. in +memory of his Queen. It was destroyed about 1700. The old market-place, +so quaint even fifty years ago, is now largely occupied by modern shops; +partly by reason of a fire which occurred many years back. + +[Footnote 7: Clutterbuck says it was erected between 1402 and 1427.] + +Continuing our way up the market-place we pass the _Town Hall_ or _Court +House_ on the right, an Italian structure dating from 1826, and the +broad St. Peter's Street opens before us, leading to the old church +dedicated to that saint. The church is one of three built by Abbot +Ulsinus in Saxon times; the date of their foundation is very uncertain, +but we may bear in mind that the first abbot, Willegod, ruled at the +close of the eighth century, that Ulsinus was the sixth abbot, and that +six others ruled during Pre-Norman times. St. Peter's Church, largely +restored by Lord Grimthorpe, is therefore of great antiquity as a +foundation; the present structure is chiefly late Perp. with a lofty E. +tower carrying four pinnacles, the latter an addition by the restorer. +The position of the tower (elsewhere almost invariably W.) is explained +by the fact that the old church was cruciform, and that when, at the +beginning of last century, the extreme E. of the chancel and the +transepts were found much dilapidated they were pulled down, the old +tower thereby losing its central position. Note the E. Perp. arches +separating nave and aisles; the pulpit a good example of Belgian +carving, and the old stained glass in windows of N. aisle; the stained +glass in other windows is modern. Concerning the brass to Roger +Pemberton, Sheriff of Herts (d. 13th November, 1627), a story is told. +If the visitor passes out of the churchyard by the N.W. gate he will be +_vis-a-vis_ to the almshouses founded in 1627 on the W. side of what was +then "St. Peter's Street, Bowgate". Pemberton is said to have been +shooting in the woods, to have shot a widow by accident, and to have +founded these almshouses for widows, and endowed them with L30 per +annum for ever as a salve to his conscience. There is an iron arrow over +the old brick gateway before the houses, which seems to countenance the +story. There were formerly many other brasses in the church, but the +inscriptions on some of them must now be sought in the county histories. +A few, however, remain, _e.g._, one with shield of arms to Mrs. +Elizabeth Wyndham (d. 1735). In the N. aisle is the tomb of Edward +Strong (d. 1723), "Master Mason" of St. Paul's Cathedral; in the +churchyard lies Dr. Nathaniel Cotton, the friend of Cowper (see page +180) (d. 1788). Among those who fell in the battles of St. Albans (of +which more will be said presently) and were buried in this church or +graveyard were (1) Sir Bertin Entwysel, Kt., Baron of Brybeke in +Normandy; (2) Ralph Babthorpe and Ralph his son, of an old Yorkshire +family. As a matter of fact a great number of the slain were buried +here; Chauncy says "this Church and Churchyard was filled with the +Bodies of those that were slain in the two battles fought in this town". + +The two other churches founded by Abbot Ulsinus are those of St. Stephen +and St. Michael. + +_St. Stephen's Church_ stands 3/4 mile S.W. from the Clock Tower, at the +junction of the roads from Edgware and Watford. It was restored by Sir +Gilbert Scott in 1861-62; but still retains some ancient features; +_e.g._, the late Norman arch in N. wall, formerly in part separating +the nave from the N. aisle (now absent), and two Norman windows, widely +splayed, in W. wall. Note (1) brass eagle-lectern, believed to have been +formerly in the Abbey at Holyrood; (2) double piscina in S. aisle; (3) +fifteenth century font. The oldest brass, much worn, is in the S. +chapel; it is to the memory of William Robins, Clerk of the Signet to +Edward IV., (d. 1482) and Katherine his wife. + +[Illustration: LORD BACON'S MONUMENT] + +_St. Michael's Church_, about 3/4 mile W. from the Clock Tower, stands on +gently rising ground close to the carriage road to Gorhambury. It is +believed to occupy, approximately, the centre of what was the ancient +city of Verulam (_q.v._) and to mark the site of a Roman temple. It has +been restored, and the tower rebuilt, by Lord Grimthorpe; the work was +only completed two or three years ago. Flint and tiles taken from the +surrounding ruins by the builders still exist in the walls; but repeated +restorations have almost obliterated the evidences of its antiquity. +There are brasses (1) to Thomas Wolvey, an Esquire to Richard II. (d. +1430); (2) to "John Pecok et Maud sa femme" (_circa_ 1340-50); but the +monument of paramount interest is that in the recess N. of the chancel, +to Francis Bacon, Baron Verulam and Viscount St. Albans (d. 9th April, +1626). The great philosopher and Lord Chancellor is represented as +sitting in a tall chair, leaning his head upon his left hand; a Jacobean +ruff is round his neck and a wide hat upon his head; the sculptor +(unknown) has succeeded admirably in imparting an air of abstraction to +the countenance. Of Bacon's house at _Gorhambury_, 11/2 mile farther W., +little remains except some fragments of wall and tower, with projecting +entrance[m] porch. In the yet remaining spandrels of the arches are +medallions of Roman Emperors; over the porch are the arms of Elizabeth. +The present mansion, a little E. from the ruins, was commenced in 1778 +by James third Viscount Grimston; it has been considerably altered, but +retains the grand N. portico; the pediment, supported by ten Corinthian +columns, reaches to the roof. The hall is very large, and contains +portraits of Francis Bacon, George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, and +other worthies. There are numerous pictures in other apartments, +including portraits of Sir Nicholas Bacon, Thomas Wentworth, Earl of +Stafford, Queen Elizabeth, Robert Devereux, Catherine of Braganza and +William Pitt. + +[Illustration: RUINS OF LORD BACON'S HOUSE] + +There were three monastic institutions on the outskirts of the town:-- + +(1) The Leper Hospital of _St. Julian_, founded by Geoffrey de Gorham, +sixteenth Abbot of St. Albans, on a spot close to St. Stephen's Church. +Of this no vestige remains. + +(2) The Hospital of _St. Mary de Pre_, for women-lepers, founded about +fifty years after the above by Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot, on +either side of the old Watling Street. Some of the graves in the +churchyard attached to the hospital were visible so recently as 1827, +and the cottages known as the "Three Chimnies," originally part of the +hospital itself, were pulled down in 1849.[8] + +[Footnote 8: _Vide_ _Historical Records of St. Albans_, by A. E. Gibbs, +F.L.S., etc.; a most interesting little volume.] + +(3) _Sopwell Nunnery_, founded by Abbot Geoffrey de Gorham about 1140, +at a spot a little S. from the Old London Road, on the river Ver. The +masses of ivy-mantled ruins still to be seen, and usually called the +"ruins of Sopwell Nunnery," are, at least for the most part, the remains +of the house built by Sir Richard Lee, to whom the manor was granted at +the Dissolution. + +ST. ALBANS ABBEY.--The Abbey has been so repeatedly altered and restored +that it may be said to illustrate every style of ecclesiastical +architecture from Norman to the present time. Opinions differ widely as +to the merits of that scheme of renovation and innovation completed +under the direction and by the munificence of Lord Grimthorpe, and no +attempt will be here made to criticise or extol the work of so great an +expert. Such a description of the venerable Abbey as an architect might +love to write would fill a volume in this series. After careful +consideration I have decided to sketch its history in such a way as to +show, however imperfectly, how it came to be what it is. I have been +careful to compare many authorities and to follow the consensus of +testimony wherever I have found discrepancy or contradiction. + +It has already been stated that, according to Gildas, Bede and other +authorities, a church was erected on Holmhurst Hill after the martyrdom +of St. Alban. Concerning that church we know little more than that it +was almost destroyed by the Saxons. In 793, or very near that date, Offa +II., who had murdered the East Anglian King, Ethelbert, resolved to +found a monastery, encouraged, as we learn from William of Malmesbury, +by Charlemagne. The monastery was duly founded, for an abbot and 100 +Benedictine monks, and the little church, renovated, became the original +abbey of the foundation. Having discovered the bones of St. Alban and +placed them in a costly reliquary, Offa conveyed them to this church, +intending to erect a nobler edifice for their reception; but it is +doubtful whether the design was carried out during his lifetime. Indeed, +we know little as to that enlarging and adornment of the church which +must surely have been effected in the days of the early abbots, and the +first hints of the erection of the great abbey occur in the lives of +Ealdred and Eadmer, eighth and ninth abbots, who collected immense +quantities of red, tile-like Roman bricks from the ruins of Verulam; +Matthew Paris tells us that Eadmer made some progress in the actual +rebuilding of the church. The twelfth abbot, Leofstan (d. 1066), +enriched the building with "certain ornaments"; but it was the +fourteenth abbot, Paul de Caen (1077-97), who, using the vast stores of +material collected by his predecessors, entirely rebuilt the church on a +scale almost commensurate with its present size. + +The rebuilding of the Abbey Church by Abbot Paul de Caen occupied eleven +years. When completed, it was certainly one of the noblest and largest +structures in the kingdom. The length of this cruciform Norman church +was 426 feet. (The extreme length is now 550, due to additions presently +mentioned.) On the E. side of either transept were two apsidal chapels, +the one adjoining the presbytery aisle being in each case the larger of +the two; there was also an apse at the E. end of the presbytery. A +square, battlemented tower flanked the W. front on either side; but the +chief glory of Abbot Paul's church was undoubtedly the enormous Norman +tower of four stages, triforium, clerestory, ringing-floor and belfry, +surmounted by parapets and flanked by angle turrets, of which such +considerable portions yet remain. Visitors who saw the Abbey thirty +years ago saw the E. portion of the nave, the transepts and the tower +substantially as built by Abbot Paul de Caen. The new Abbey was +dedicated 1115. + +Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth abbot (1119-46), placed the relics of St. +Alban in a new shrine. + +Robert de Gorham, eighteenth abbot (1161-67), erected the _Chapter +House_ and _Locutory_ (Abbot's Cloister); his successor, Symeon +(1167-83), completed the erection and embellishment of the _Shrine of +St. Alban_, raising its height so that it could be seen from the _High +Altar_. During his abbacy the relics of St. Amphibalus were brought to +St. Albans, and the shrine of that saint was eventually erected in the +E. aisle. The _Chapel of St. Cuthbert_ in the _Baptistery_, built by +Abbot Richard de Albini (1097-1119), was also dedicated about this time. + +Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot (1183-95), placed the relics of St. +Amphibalus in a feretry, enriching it with gold and silver +ornamentation. He placed it behind the High Altar, near the feretry of +St. Alban. + +John de Cella, twenty-first abbot (1195-1214), commenced to rebuild the +W. front, notably the three fine E.E. porches now replaced by those of +Lord Grimthorpe, but the work was completed by his successor William de +Trumpyntone (1214-35), who added the two flanking towers. This abbot +erected the rood screen between the nave and choir, added the octagon +above the tower after removing the Norman turrets and parapets, and +probably built those E.E. bays on each side of the nave which are +nearest to the W. front. He also restored portions of the S. transept +and S. aisle, and rebuilt _St. Cuthbert's Chapel_ on the spot now partly +occupied by the _Rood Screen_. + +The E. end of the Abbey next received the attention of these +architect-abbots. Commencing at the second bay E. from the tower, John +de Hertford (1235-60) almost entirely replaced the Norman and E.E. work +of his predecessors by work which merged into a graceful E. Dec. The +work was carried on by his immediate successors, doubtless sadly +hindered by the turbulent state of the times. John de Norton (1260-90) +built the S. aisle of the _Retro-choir_, and part of the _Lady-chapel_, +but his work was supplemented by that of John de Berkhampstead +(1291-1302). John de Marinis (1302-8) removed the feretry and tomb of +St. Alban to the position which it occupied until about the time of the +Dissolution and spent 820 marks in the erection of a tomb of Purbeck +marble. Hugh de Eversden (1308-26) built the five moulded Dec. bays of +the S. aisle, replacing the Norman work, which had given way, and +completed the _Lady-chapel_ at the extreme E., thereby greatly +increasing the length of the entire building. There was subsequently, +however, for a long period, a passage between the _Retro-choir_ and the +_Lady-chapel_. + +Abbot Michael de Mentmore (1335-49) completed the restoration of the S. +aisle and repaired the _Cloister_. His successor, Thomas de la Mere, +paved the W. floor, and no doubt minor restorations were almost +continually in progress during the latter half of the fourteenth +century; but a new chapter in the story of the Abbey commenced when John +de Wheathampsted became abbot (1420-40 and 1451-64). This celebrated +man, during the two periods of his abbacy, hardly rested in his efforts +to beautify the Abbey. It is stated in a Cottonian MS. that this abbot +constructed a little chapel near the shrine of St. Alban; this was +perhaps the _Watching Loft_ (N. of _Saint's Chapel_) in which the keeper +of the holy shrine and relics (Custos Feretri) spent much of his time. +John de Wheathampsted also built the tomb of Humphrey, Duke of +Gloucester (d. 1447), on the side of the chapel opposite the _Watching +Loft_ (a few steps lead down to the coffin); prepared his own tomb W. +from that of the duke; built the great Perp. window over the W. porches, +now replaced by one Dec. in design, and the nine N. windows of _Nave_ +and _Ante-Choir_; and was probably responsible for the paintings +discovered on the choir ceiling, and for many of the embellishments of +the _Lady-chapel_. Perhaps, however, his fame chiefly rests on the _High +Altar Screen_, which he designed, but which was erected by the +thirty-sixth abbot, William Wallingford (1476-84). + +There were apparently few important features added to the Abbey, and but +little restoration effected during the rule of the last four abbots +(1492-1539). A few brief paragraphs concerning its modern restorations +and present appearance must now be added. + +Those modern restorations date largely from the middle of last century. +Its condition, internally and externally, was at that time certainly +discreditable to everybody concerned in its welfare. In 1856 a National +Committee placed the matter in the hands of Sir Gilbert Scott, under +whose direction the building was in part restored; but public funds +presently failed and in 1879 the direction of the workers was undertaken +by one who had at once the inclination and the funds necessary to its +completion--Lord Grimthorpe. + +The _Abbey_, from the W. porches to the E. end of the _Lady-chapel_ and +the _Chapel of Transfiguration_, measures inside 520 feet, outside 550 +feet; the entire _transept_ length from N. to S., on the floor, 177 +feet; the _nave_, the longest Gothic one in the world, 292 feet x 75 +feet 4 inches; the _Lady-chapel_, 57 feet x 24 feet; the great _Screens_ +are rather less than 170 feet apart; the height of the _tower_ is 144 +feet. Visitors will find some slight discrepancies as to measurements in +the several guides which have been compiled; but the foregoing figures +will assist them to realise the vast dimensions of the building. Its +area is approximately 40,000 square feet. Of special interest are:-- + +(1) _The Tower_, which is seen to greater advantage since Sir Gilbert +Scott removed the exterior plaster, thus exposing the wonderfully +preserved Roman tiles with which it was faced by Abbot Paul de Caen. The +four enormous piers upon which it rests were weakened by the ignorance +of early restorers, who cut into them freely, and dug graves in such +manner as to imperil their foundations. The most arduous work of Sir +Gilbert Scott was the strengthening of these piers, effected piecemeal +by partial reconstruction of the piers themselves and by laying a +durable substratum of cement right down to the chalk. The fine ring of +eight bells was rehung. Visitors will find the ascent of the spiral +staircase long and arduous, but will be rewarded by the almost +unrivalled view from between the merlons on its summit. + +[Illustration: The Shrine of St Alban] + +(2) _St. Alban's Shrine_ (in the Saint's Chapel between the Altar Screen +and the Lady-chapel), already referred to (p. 188), disappeared about +the time of the suppression of the monastery (1539), and all traces of +it were lost except the fragment of Purbeck marble marking its former +site on the chapel floor. Yet that shrine, its genuineness unquestioned, +stands to-day on the site which it occupied centuries ago! Hundreds of +fragments of Purbeck marble were discovered when the central arches of +the Lady-chapel were opened by Dr. Nicholson previous to the +restorations of Sir Gilbert Scott. Subsequently, other fragments were +discovered and the whole collection, the importance of which was +suspected, was pieced together with indefatigable ingenuity by the late +John Chapple. The _feretry_ itself, mentioned by Matthew Paris, which +was supposed to contain the relic of the martyr, has not, and probably +never will be, discovered. The vaulted niches are of clunch, but the +rest of the shrine is of Purbeck marble. Note the beautiful tracery of +these groined niches, the cusps of the arches and crocketted +pediments, and the carvings in the tympana, representing scenes from +the martyrdom of SS. Alban and Amphibalus. + +(3) _Shrine of St. Amphibalus_ (in N. aisle of presbytery). This was +discovered in fragments and pieced together in the same manner as that +of St. Alban. The whole, however, is of clunch, and, unfortunately, +incomplete. Note the fret-like sculpture round the basement, and the +name of the saint (imperfect) in carved capitals. + +(4) _High Altar Screen_, or screen of Abbot Wallingford (restored at the +expense of Lord Aldenham); is in point of size, as in beauty, perhaps +unique in England. Note its resemblance to that at Winchester. It was +much dilapidated, its many statues having been entirely destroyed at the +time of the Reformation; but its restoration has been admirably +executed, the figures of SS. Alban and Amphibalus being especially +noticeable: the latter wears a _Celtic_, not a Roman tonsure. Note also +the figures of our Lord and His apostles in alabaster, and those of +Adrian IV., Bede, Hugh of Lincoln, St. Edmund and many others. + +(5) Chantry Tombs of _Abbot Ramryge_ and _Abbot John Wheathampsted_, +occupying respectively the last arches of N. and S. side of the +Sanctuary. Note the fine late Perp. work of the former, and the +Wheathampsted arms, three wheat-ears, on the latter. + +(6) _The Lady-chapel_ (enter through Retro-choir). This formerly +contained much of the finest work in the Abbey and traces of it are +still retained, despite its repeated and entire restoration. The present +vaulted roof of real stone replaces that of imitation stone built by +Abbot Hugh de Eversden. In post-Reformation days it was long used as the +Grammar School; but since the removal of the school to the Old Gate +House (1869) the chapel has gradually been brought into its present +state. Many of its most beautiful features--tracery, mouldings, +statuettes, carvings, etc.--had, however, been completely destroyed by +the boys. The marble pavement is new; the stained glass in the E. window +was presented by the Corporation of London. Note the wonderful variety +of carved flowers and fruits with which this chapel is embellished. + +From Grose's _Antiquities_ (vol. viii.) I quote the following:-- + +"Mr. Robert Shrimpton, grandfather, by the mother's side, to Mrs. +Shrimpton of St. Albans, was four times mayor of that town; he died +about sixty years since, being then about 103 years of age. He lived +when the Abbey of St. Alban flourished before the Dissolution and +remembered most things relating to the buildings of the Abbey, the +regimen of the house, the ceremonies of the church ... all of which he +would often discourse in his life-time. Among other things, that in the +Great Hall there was an ascent of fifteen steps to the abbot's table, to +which the monks brought up the service in plate, and staying at every +fifth step, which was a resting-place, at every of which they sung a +short hymn. The abbot usually sat alone in the middle of the table; and +when any nobleman or ambassador or stranger of eminent quality came +thither they sat at his table towards the end thereof. When the monks +had waited a while on the abbot, they sat down at two other tables, +placed on the sides of the hall and had their service brought in by +novices, who, when the monks had dined, sat down to their own dinner." + +_First Battle of St. Albans._--On _May 23rd_, 1455, the forces of King +Henry VI. assembled in the neighbourhood of St. Peter's Street, and were +attacked by those of the Duke of York and Warwick the Kingmaker. +Advancing from the fields E. of the town, Warwick's men appear to have +approached from Key Fields and Sopwell Lane, and, finally, having fought +their way into Holywell Hill, to have united with those of the Duke of +York, who had forced the town barriers farther N. The battle was +desperately contested; the bowmen, as usual in those times, playing a +conspicuous part; Henry VI. was wounded in the neck, Humphrey Earl of +Stafford in the right hand, Lord Sudley and the Duke of Buckingham in +the face--all with arrows. The wounded king took refuge in the cottage +of a tanner; here he was made prisoner and conducted by the Duke of York +to the Abbey. The town was at the mercy of the Yorkist soldiers during +the latter part of the day; many houses were looted and the Abbey was +probably spared only because the royal prisoner had been conducted +thither. Several illustrious persons slain in this battle were buried in +the Lady-chapel: (1) Henry Percy, second Earl of Northumberland; (2) +Edmund Beaufort, first Duke of Somerset; (3) John, Lord Clifford. Sir +Robert Vere, Sir William Chamberlain, Sir Richard Fortescue, Kts., and +many squires and other gentlemen also perished. + +_Second Battle of St. Albans._--On Shrove Tuesday, 17th February, 1461, +Queen Margaret defeated the Earl of Warwick, who retreated with +considerable loss, the battle being mostly fought out on Bernard's +Heath, N. from St. Peter's Church. This engagement also was stubbornly +fought out. According to Stow and Hollinshead, the Lancastrians were +thwarted in their efforts to pass through the town from S. to N., being +repulsed by arrows in the Market Place, and eventually reached Bernard's +Heath by a circuitous route from the W. If this is so, visitors who +ramble down the High Street, turn right into Katherine Lane, coming out +of Wellclose Street near St. Peter's Church, will probably tread in the +footsteps of the troops of Margaret. After the fight had been decided +the victorious Lancastrians poured back into the town, which was again +plundered, and the Abbey also partially stripped. This was during the +second abbacy of John Wheathampsted, and Stow records that the day after +the battle Queen Margaret, and the King (Henry VI.) were led by the +abbot and monks to the High Altar of the Abbey, where they returned +thanks for the victory. + +ST. MARGARET'S, on the river Lea, has a small church with several +unimportant memorials. It was probably formed from one aisle of an older +edifice. + +_St. Margaret's_ is also the name of a few cottages a little N.W. from +Great Gaddesden, near the site of the Benedictine convent of _Muresley_, +the refectory of which was almost intact early last century. + +ST. PAUL'S WALDEN (4 miles S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a +large and scattered parish; much of it is very picturesque. The church, +which was restored twenty years ago, is of several styles, but contains +little worthy of comment. Note the tablet on the W. wall of the chapel +to Henry Stapleford and Dorothy his wife. "The said Henry was servant to +Queen Elizabeth, King James and King Charles" (d. 1631). The manor was +formerly called first _Waldene_, then Abbot's Walden, being the property +of the abbots of St. Albans. _St. Paul's Walden Bury_, 1/2 mile S.W. from +the church, is the seat of Lord Strathmore. Note the fine avenues in the +park, commanding good views of the house. The walk S. to Whitwell, +through the steep and twisted lane and across the bridge over the Maran, +keeping the "bog" and cress beds on the right, is very pretty. + +SANDON (31/2 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R) has a flint church, +probably late fourteenth century. Several features should be noted: (1) +Perp. screen (oak) between nave and chancel; (2) old stained glass in +windows of both aisles; (3) fine Jacobean oak pulpit; (4) old brass, +with inscription which was imperfect 200 years back, to "Johannes Fitz +Geoffery, Armiger" (d. 1480); (5) piscina in each aisle; (6) pinnacled +and crocketted arches in chancel, over triple sedilia. The church was +partially restored in 1875. The manor of _Sandone_ was owned by Saxon +kings; Athelstan gave ten houses in the _vill_ to St. Paul's, London. +The Old North Road to Royston is 2 miles E. + +SANDRIDGE (21/2 miles N.E. from St. Albans) is on the road to +Wheathampstead, and is a thoroughly typical English village consisting, +for the most part, of one street, with the parish church near its N.E. +end. The parish stretches northwards to the Lea, and is very ancient; +the _vill_ was given by Egfrith, a son of Offa, to St. Alban's Abbey. It +owes its name to the nature of its soil. The church, one of the most +ancient in the county, has known much restoration, but still retains +Norman work. It was consecrated as a chapel a few years after the +consecration of St. Alban's Abbey (1115); the chancel was rebuilt by +Abbot John Moote (_circa_ 1400). The tower fell towards the end of the +seventeenth century and the structure which took its place was pulled +down and reconstructed in 1887. Note the old material in the apex, the +Perp. windows in the aisles, the clerestoried Norman nave and the Norman +font. There are N. and S. porches. + +Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, derived his first title, Baron +Sandridge, from this parish; the Jennings family, from which his wife +Sarah was descended, possessed the manor for several generations. +_Sandridge Bury_, N.W. from the village, is beautifully situated. + +SARRATT (11/2 mile N. from Chorley Wood Station, Met. Extension) is near +the river Chess, on the Bucks border. The church is late Norman and is +remarkable for the saddle-back roof of its tower, running N. and S., the +only tower roof of its kind in Herts. The building is cruciform, of +flint, dressed with Totternhoe and Caen stone, and has a square ambry, a +very old piscina, and a double sedilia; the latter is E.E. Richard +Baxter is said to have preached from the Jacobean pulpit. There are a +few old memorials. The church is prettily situated, and a picturesque +walk may be taken N.W. to Sarratt Bottom, thence N.E. to + +SARRATT GREEN, which during the last two or three centuries has +gradually outgrown Sarratt. Note the many fine old cottages on either +side of the village green. Sarratt owes its name to Syret, a Saxon. + +SAWBRIDGEWORTH (formerly Sabysford, Sabridgeworth, Saybrichesworth and +now often called Sapsworth) lies at the S.E. extremity of the county, 4 +miles S. from Bishop's Stortford. The district is not very diversified, +but is open and pleasant. The history of the several old manor houses +in the neighbourhood would fill a large volume; those of _Hyde Hall_ +(E.) and _Pishiobury_ (S.) are engraved in Chauncy; the present mansion +in Pishiobury[n] Park was built by Wyatt, and has a fine adjoining +rosery. The church stands between the town and the station (G.E.R.); it +has a good Perp. screen between the clerestoried Dec. nave and the +chancel, and a large canopied piscina in the N. aisle. The brasses are +numerous: note (1) to Sir John Leventhorpe (d. 1433) and Katherine his +wife (d. 1431); the former was an executor to King Henry V.; (2) to +several other members of the Leventhorpe family, too numerous to +mention; (3) to Calpredus Jocelin (d. 147-), and his wives Katherine and +Joan; (4) inscription on brass, which was long ago transcribed as +follows:-- + + "Of your Charite + Sey a Pater Nostre and an Ave + For the Sowl of William Chaunce + On whose Sowl Jesu have Mercy". + +Several monuments and brasses are to the memory of persons buried +elsewhere. Note the marble altar-tomb in chancel to John Jocelin or +Jocelyn (d. 1525) and Philippa his wife. + +_Shafton End_ and _Shafton-Hoe_ lie a little E. from the Cambridge Road, +on the Essex border, about 4 miles S.E. from Royston. + +_Shaw Green_ is 4 miles S.E. from Baldock, near _Julians Park_. + +SHEEPHALL (2 miles N.N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a little +E. from the Great North Road. It is a small village. The church, E.E., +is approached through a good lich-gate, and contains many memorials, +including two sixteenth-century brasses to members of the Nodes family, +one of which was Sergeant of the Buckhounds to Henry VIII., Edward VI., +Mary and Elizabeth (d. 1564). + +SHENLEY (2 miles E. from Radlett Station, M.R.) is of interest to many +for its fine old "lock-up," or cage, in the centre of the village. We +are on high ground here, and the tower of St. Alban's Abbey is well seen +above the trees to the N.W. The village is scattered along several +converging roads, and the surrounding country is undulating and +beautifully wooded. Turn down the lane opposite the Black Lion to reach +the old church of St. Botolph, 1 mile N.N.W. from the cage. Note the +venerable yews, and the quaint old grave-boards in the graveyard; also +the altar-tomb to Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of Wren, and the architect +of St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard Street (d. at Shenley, 1736). The church +was partly rebuilt in the middle of the eighteenth century, when the +tower was demolished and a structure of timber, with quadrangular tiled +roof, eventually erected in its stead. This has disappeared, and the +"old parish church" is now an oblong building of flints, chalk-faced, +with tiled roof. _Porters_, in the park, a little W., was the residence +of Admiral Lord Howe. _Salisbury Hall_, a gabled manor house with +massive chimneys, surrounded by a moat, is Jacobean, and stands on the +spot occupied successively by the older houses of the Montacutes, and of +Sir John Cutts, Treasurer and Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. Eugene +Aram visited the neighbourhood. + +_Sleap's Hyde_ (1/2 mile S.E. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +in the parish of Colney Heath. + +_Smug Oak_, a few cottages, lies on the E. confines of Bricket Wood, 1/2 +mile N.E. from that station, L.&N.W.R. + +_Smyth's End_ adjoins Barley on the S. (_q.v._). + +_Solesbridge Lane_, on the river Chess, is close to Chorley Wood. + +_Southend_ and _Southend Green_ are hamlets, (1) adjoining Stevenage on +the S., (2) 1/2 mile E. from Rushden. + +_Spellbrook_ is a hamlet nearly midway between Sawbridgeworth and +Bishop's Stortford. + +_Stanborough_, on the Hatfield-Welwyn road, is midway between Hatfield +and Brocket Hall Parks. The road which branches N.W. from the hamlet +leads to the modern church at Lemsford (_q.v._). + +STANDON has several claims to notice. It is a large village, 1 mile E. +from the Old North Road. A little W., and on the other side of the +railway, is the mansion which occupies the site of _Standon Lordship_, a +fine old manor house, of which hardly a vestige remains. It was long +owned by the Sadleir family, most illustrious of whom was Sir Ralph +Sadleir (d. 1587), who fought at Pinkie. (See below.) + +The church, largely Dec., still retains some Saxon foundations, and has +singular features worthy of comment. The embattled tower is separate +from the main structure, standing on the _S. side of the chancel_; the +chancel is raised much higher than the nave, from which it is approached +by a flight of steps; note the hagioscope on either side of the chancel +arch. Within the chancel, on the S. side, stands the fine monument to +Sir Ralph Sadleir, consisting of altar-tomb and marble effigy in armour, +recumbent beneath a canopy supported by Corinthian pillars; note the +relieved figures of his sons and daughters on the lower part of the +tomb, also, suspended above, two helmets and other relics. The standard +pole captured at Pinkie rests beside the effigy. There are also several +old brasses. Close to the village, at Old Hall Green, are the Roman +Catholic College, Chapel and Cemetery; the college was founded at +Twyford, Hants, late in the seventeenth century, from whence it was +removed, first to Standon Lordship, and then (1769) to Old Hall. The +library is large and valuable. + +STANSTEAD ABBOTS may be easily reached from St. Margaret's Station, +G.E.R., 1/2 mile W. It was a place of considerable trade at the time of +the Conquest. The old flint church is E.E., with a chapel on the N. +side, built by Edward Baesh--whose monument it contains--in 1577. He +was lord of the manor of Stanstead Abbots and "General Surveyor of the +Victuals for the Navy Royal and Marine affairs within the Realms of +England and Ireland" (d. 1587). He married Jane, a daughter of Sir Ralph +Sadleir. (See Standon.) The six Baesh Almshouses were built and endowed +by his son, Sir Edward Baesh. Several brasses, some mutilated, are in +the church, notably one near the altar-rails to William Saraye or +Saxaye, late of "Grais In" (d. 1581). _Stansteadbury_, a huge gabled +mansion, largely rebuilt, stands in extensive grounds, and was the home +of the Baeshs and of their successors, the Feildes. + +_Stapleford_, a village on the river Beane, is 3 miles N.N.W. from +Hertford. The church is Perp. with N. porch; it was enlarged nearly +fifty years ago, when the present tower was added. + +STEVENAGE, a town on the Great North Road, has shifted from its original +position. It once stood farther N.E. and close to the church; but after +a terrible fire which destroyed a large proportion of its houses the +village was gradually rebuilt more directly on the famous old coaching +road. The first paper mill in England is said to have been built in this +parish. Several of its inns were standing when the regular coaches were +on the road. + +[Illustration: STEVENAGE CHURCH] + +The old Church of St. Nicholas, 3/4 mile N.E., is reached through an +avenue of limes and chestnuts, headed by a new lich-gate. It is largely +E.E. Note the octagonal pillars and pointed arches of the nave and the +two small chapels attached to the chancel. The font at the W. end is +under an Early Norman arch. There are several modern windows of stained +glass, and a good brass, early sixteenth century, in the chancel. The +church at the S. end of the town was designed by Sir A. W. Blomfield +about sixty years back, but has since been much enlarged. Half a mile +farther S. on the main road are six almost equidistant mounds, thought +to be of Danish origin. + +At the old Castle Inn, E. side of High Street, great numbers of persons +have been shown on the rafters in a barn the coffin of Henry Trigg, +whose will was proved in 1724; one of its provisions was that his body +should not be buried, but disposed of in that way. Little more than a +mile N.W. from the station, at Redcoats Green, stood, until 1893, +"Elmwood House," the home of the Hermit of Hertfordshire. This man, +James Lucas, was descended from a good family, but for reasons never +satisfactorily explained he lived alone, and in a most filthy condition, +from October, 1849, to April, 1874. A concise and reliable account of +this peculiar man is issued by Messrs. Paternoster and Hales of Hitchin. + +STOCKING PELHAM, on the Essex border (51/2 miles N.E. from Braughing +Station, G.E.R.), has an E.E. church dating from early fourteenth +century; it has no tower. The chancel was restored in 1864. The manor is +very ancient, and was held by Simon de Furneaux in the reign of Edward +I., but the village now shows little of interest. + +_Swangles_ (21/4 miles N.E. from Ware) is a small hamlet a little S. from +the river Rib. + +_Symonds Green_ (3/4 mile S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +between the Great North Road and the ruins of Minsden Chapel. + +_Symonds Hyde_ Farm and Wood are in a pleasant district, very +diversified, a little S.W. from Brocket Hall Park. Smallford and +Hatfield Station (G.N.R.) are from 2 to 3 miles S. and S.W. +respectively. + +_Tea Green_, a hamlet near the Beds border, lies between Breachwood +Green and Putteridge Bury. + +_Tednambury_ and _Tednam Mill_ are on the river Stort and right on the +Essex border. Sawbridgeworth Station (G.E.R.) is 1 mile S. + +TEWIN (about 2 miles S.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) is most +charmingly situated on high ground above the river Maran. The village is +divided into the Upper and Lower Green; the church, 1/4 mile from the +latter, stands on a hill that slopes steeply to the river. Note the +altar-tomb in churchyard to Lady Anne Grimston (d. 1710). The tomb is +forced asunder by ash and sycamore trees growing together, a +circumstance popularly attributed to the sceptical opinions of Lady +Anne, who is said to have denied the doctrine of immortality, and to +have expressed the wish that such a phenomenon should happen if the +doctrine were indeed true. The church, which looks very old, is of +flint, brick and rubble, with a large diamond-faced clock on one side of +the tower. In the S. porch (entrance blocked up) is the marble monument +to Sir Joseph Sabine (d. 1739); who fought under Marlborough. Note the +pyramid, 15 feet high, and the recumbent effigy, dressed as a Roman +soldier. There is also in the S. aisle a good brass to one Thomas Pygott +(d. 1610), and a slab with an imperfect Lombardic inscription to Walter +de Louthe. _Tewin Water_, in the park, N.W., is prettily surrounded by +trees. Beautiful walks may be taken in almost any direction, especially +in the trend of the river Maran towards Digswell and Welwyn. + +_Tharbes End_ is 11/2 mile N.W. from Sawbridgeworth. + +THEOBALD'S PARK. (See Waltham Cross.) + +THERFIELD (3 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) was, according to +Dugdale's _Monasticon Anglicanum_, given to the church of Ramsey by +Etheric, Bishop of Sherbourne, about 980, and Chauncy "guesses" that an +abbot of Ramsey built Therfield church. The present church is a modern +Dec. structure, a little W. from the centre of the scattered village. +The _Icknield Way_ skirts the parish on the N. and many Roman relics +have been discovered in the neighbourhood. There are also several tumuli +in the parish, which lies on high, chalky soil. + +THORLEY (2 miles S.W. from Bishop's Stortford) can show a good Norman +doorway on the S. side of the little church; note the dog-tooth moulding +and twisted nook-shafts. The remainder of the building is largely E.E.; +there is a piscina in the chancel and--at the W. entrance--a niche for a +holy water basin. The font, as at Bishop's Stortford, was a modern +discovery. Thorley Wash and Thorley Street are between the church and +the G.E.R. + +THROCKING (2 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) stands on a +hill. The church is E.E. and Dec., except the upper part of the tower, +of brick, added in 1660. The monuments include one by Nollekens and one +by Rysbrack, to members of the Elwes family, of whose manor house there +are still some traces adjacent to the _Hall Farm_. The walk N.W. to +Baldock, by way of Julians Park (7 to 8 miles), leads across open, +breezy country. + +THUNDRIDGE and WADE'S MILL are on the Old North Road, about 2 miles N. +from Ware. The river Rib crosses the road at Wade's Mill. The present +parish church, E.E. in style, was built about seventy years ago, close +to the bridge over the Rib; the tower of the old church; "Little St. +Mary's," with a Norman arch stands in the lower meadows 1/2 mile E. On the +W. side of the Old North Road, close to Wade's Mill, a low obelisk marks +the spot where Thomas Clarkson resolved to give his life to the cause of +the abolition of slavery. + +_Titmore Green_ is 11/2 mile N.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R. + +_Tittenhanger._ (See London Colney.) + +_Todd's Green_ adjoins Titmore Green. + +_Tonwell_, on the main road from Ware or Stevenage, is a hamlet near +the river Rib. It has a modern chapel-of-ease. Ware is 21/2 miles S.E. + +TOTTERIDGE, on the Middlesex border, is 1 mile W. from the Station +(G.N.R.). Richard Baxter lived here for a short time. The neighbourhood +is well wooded and very pleasing to the eye. The church, on the +hill-top, dates only from 1790; but the site was occupied by an earlier +structure. The memorials are of no historic interest; but near the +enormous yew tree in the churchyard stands the tomb of the first Lord +Cottenham (d. 1851). Near by, too, lies Sir Lucas Pepys, physician to +George III. (d. 1830). _Totteridge Park_, W. from the village, was the +residence of Baron Bunsen, and of the above-mentioned Lord Cottenham; +the large, plain structure in which they lived, recently in part +rebuilt, was erected about a century ago, taking the place of the fine +old manor house, for some generations the home of the Lee family. At +_Copped Hall_, near the church, the late Cardinal Manning was born in +1808. + +TRING is the most westerly place of any importance in Herts. The station +(L.&N.W.R.) is nearly 2 miles E. from the town, which is sheltered on +the N.W. by the chalk hills, a fresh spur of which crops out 3 mile N.E. +at Aldbury (_q.v._). The church (Perp.) stands near the centre of the +town and is fortunate in having been restored under the direction of Mr. +Bodley in 1882. It is an embattled, flint structure; the tower has a +corner turret and is, like that at Hitchin, unusually massive. Note (1) +the clustered columns of the nave, (2) the quaint corbels, (3) the +large, imposing monument to Sir William Gore and his wife (d. 1707 and +1705 respectively); Sir William was Lord Mayor of London; (4) good Perp. +windows in each aisle. + +Tring was formerly a considerable centre of the straw-plait industry, +which is still pursued to a less extent. The place is of great +antiquity, _Treung_ hundred dating from the days of Alfred the Great. +William I. gave it to Robert Earl of Ewe, and Stephen kindly bestowed it +upon the monks of Faversham, "in perpetual Alms for the Health of the +Souls of Maud his Queen and all faithful People". Edward II. granted to +Tring market rights. + +_Tring Park_ (property of Hon. N. C. Rothschild) is surrounded by +perhaps the most exquisite woods--largely of beech--in the whole county. +Much altered in modern times, it is said to have been designed by Wren, +and to have been visited by Charles II. The park is well kept, and +contains many living curiosities placed here by Lord Rothschild, a lover +of natural history. The _Museum_, at the top of Akeman Street, +containing a fine zoological collection, is the outcome of his +lordship's energy and benevolence. The _Museum House_, to which it is +attached, is a prettily designed structure of red brick, with gables. + +_Tring, Little_, is a hamlet 11/4 mile N.W. from the town, and Tring +Grove, a hamlet 11/4 mile N.E. The former is near the large reservoirs, +upon which several of the rare birds mentioned in the Introduction +(Section IV.) were observed. + +_Trowley Bottom_ (3 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet +a little S. from Flamstead, in one of the most thoroughly rural +districts in the county. The Roman _Watling Street_ (St. +Albans-Dunstable road) is 1 mile N.E. + +_Turnford_ (11/4 mile S.W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet in +Cheshunt parish, on the New River. _Broxbourne Bury Park_ is 1 mile N. + +_Two Waters_ owes its name to its position at the junction of two small +rivers--the Gade and the Bulbourne. It is in Hemel Hempstead parish, and +about 1 mile E. from Boxmoor Station. + +_Tyttenhanger._ (See Tittenhanger.) + +_Upwick Green_ (4 miles N.W. from Bishop's Stortford) is a hamlet on the +Essex border. _Hadham Hall_ (see Little Hadham) is 1 mile S. + +VERULAM. Of the old Roman _municipium_ (_Verulamium_) there now remains +above ground little more than some large fragments of crumbling wall in +the valley of the Ver, immediately S.W. from St. Albans. Passing under +the old Gatehouse and crossing the bridge at the Silk Mill the visitor, +instead of turning right and following the course of the Ver, should +keep straight on and pass the small gate into Verulam Woods. On his +right as he follows the broad footpath will be the outer E. wall of the +Roman city; on his left what appears a long gorge, overgrown by bushes +and trees of many species, was once the _fosse_. Note the great +thickness and solidity of the walls, and the tile-like bricks, similar +to those in the Abbey tower, mingled with flints. Presently both wall +and fosse turn sharply W. and may be followed in that direction for a +considerable distance. The walls may also be traced at other spots +farther W., particularly a large mass known as Gorhambury Block, +believed to mark the boundary of the _municipium_ in that direction. + +It has been mentioned in the Introduction (Section IX.) that the only +Roman theatre known to have existed in England stood in this +neighbourhood. Its remains were discovered rather more than seventy +years ago in a field immediately W. from St. Michael's Church; nothing +is now to be seen, for the excavations have been again covered. The +discovery included that of the stage, somewhat narrow, the _auditorium_, +with many rows of seats, and portions of the frescoed walls. Many coins +were found among the ruins. + +Mention must be made of the fact that the Roman _Verulamium_ was the +scene of the awful massacre in the time of Boadicea, when the Queen of +the Iceni, with a great number of followers, slew alike the British and +Roman inhabitants and partially destroyed the city (A.D. 61). An +account of this is in the _Annals_ of Tacitus. The place was +subsequently rebuilt and occupied by the Saxons, who called it +_Watlingceaster_, or _Werlamceaster_. + +_Wade's Mill._ (See Thundridge.) + +_Wakely_ (2 miles W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet in +Westmill parish, consisting of a farm and a few cottages. + +WALKERN (41/2 miles E. from Stevenage) is a large village, with many +picturesque nooks and cottages. The river Beane skirts it on the E. +side. The manor is very ancient; Chauncy speaks of "Walkerne" as a town, +and mentions a mill which stood in his day (1632-1719) at its S. end, +presumably where Walkern Mill now stands. The church, on a knoll sloping +to the Beane, is mostly Perp., but retains Norman work in the S. aisle; +the chancel is modern, E.E. in style. The effigy in Purbeck marble in a +recess of S. wall, of a knight in chain mail, is thought to represent +one of the Lanvalei family. If so, it forms an interesting link with a +remote past, for in the reign of King John one Alan Basset paid a +hundred marks to that monarch, and gave him a palfrey "that his daughter +might marry the heir of William de Lanvalley". There are also effigies +on brass to the Humberstone family (sixteenth century). _Walkern Hall_ +(1 mile S.E.) stands in a small but pretty park; _Walkern Bury_ (1 mile +E.) can still show some remains of a castle. + +WALLINGTON (31/2 miles E. from Baldock) lies in one of the most quiet +districts of the county, a district almost entirely agricultural. The +village is small; a few cottages are ancient and picturesque, but there +is little to notice. Take the lane opposite the Plough Inn to reach the +church, which can show a good Perp. roof and screen, and some mutilated +monuments and brasses in the chapel. The main structure is Dec.; but the +chancel was rebuilt forty years ago. A walk affording views very +characteristic of Herts may be taken from the footpath near the walled +pond adjoining the church, by bearing S.S.E. to Red Hill, Rushden and +Cottered. + +_Walsworth_, a hamlet, is almost a suburb at the N.E. end of Hitchin, 1/2 +mile from the station. + +[Illustration: WALTHAM CROSS] + +WALTHAM CROSS, on the London-Cambridge road, owes its name, as is well +known, to the Cross which Edward I. erected to the memory of Queen +Eleanor about 11/4 mile W. from Waltham Abbey. The cross stands a little +W. from Waltham Station (G.E.R.), where the above-mentioned road meets +that which leads E. to the Abbey. Although frequently restored it is +perhaps even now more complete than any other Eleanor Cross still +existing. (That erected at St. Albans, as already stated, was destroyed +about 200 years ago.) It is, I believe, disputed as to whether it was +designed by Pietro Cavalini or not; it was completed in 1294. It is +hexagonal in shape, of three stages, diminishing from basement to +summit; the details of its sculpture can be readily seized by examining +Mr. New's drawing. The restoration of 1833 was worked in Bath stone; +this was largely replaced by new material, in Ketton stone, only a +few years ago, at which time the Old Falcon Inn, which projected almost +to the cross, was pulled down, thus affording a view of the monument +from all sides. + +The Four Swans, close to the cross, dates from 1260, as is testified on +the large, quaint sign-board which swings above the road; but only a few +portions of the present structure are of any great antiquity. There is a +modern church a little N. from the cross; but much of the district +commonly called Waltham is in Essex. Of great interest to visitors, +however, and about 1 mile W. from the Cross, is _Theobald's Park_, a +brick mansion erected about 150 years back by Sir G. W. Prescott, Bart. +At one of the entrances to the park stands Temple Bar, brought here from +Fleet Street and erected in its present position in 1888. The house does +not occupy the site of the historic manor house visited by so many +sovereigns, which stood on a slight eminence some distance to the N.W. +It was William Cecil, afterwards Lord Burghley, who commenced to build +that famous mansion in 1560, and enlarged it considerably when he found +it pleasant in the eyes of many persons of high degree. Queen Elizabeth +was frequently a visitor at Theobalds. It was Burghley's son, Robert +Cecil, who entertained James I. here as that monarch was on his way to +London and the English Crown, and James became so pleased with the house +and its surroundings that he obtained it from Cecil, giving him the +royal manor of Hatfield in its stead. It was from _Theobalds_ that +Charles I. set out to raise his standard at Nottingham (1642). The house +was partially destroyed during the turmoil that ensued; after the +Restoration it was given by Charles II. to George Monk. It was +subsequently the property of the Earl of Portland and of several other +persons. + +WARE was for a long period, and is perhaps now, the centre of the malt +trade in Herts, but brickmaking is also extensively carried on. The +river Lea skirts the town on the S. side, and is crossed by an iron +bridge near the Barge Inn. The High Street displays many new houses and +shops, but by turning into the smaller by-ways visitors may find quaint +cottages and picturesque nooks and corners. The town is very ancient, +but contained only a few persons at the time of the Conquest. + +The cruciform church of St. Mary has been much restored; the body of the +present structure is Dec.; but the tower and chancel are Perp. Note (1) +the carved oak screen separating the S. transept from the Lady-chapel; +(2) sedilia, piscina and ambries in the chapel itself; (3) octagonal +font (_temp._ Henry IV.), bearing figures of saints on its panels; (4) +mural monument in S. transept to Sir Richard Fanshawe; (5) brass to W. +Pyrry or Pyrey (d. 1470) and his wives Agnes and Alice, the inscription +was apparently never completed; (6) curious brass figure near pulpit. +There is also a modern church in the New Road, E.E. in style, of Kentish +Rag and Bath Stone. + +There was a Franciscan Priory a little W. from the church, which, +although sometimes said to have been founded by Margaret, Countess of +Leicester (_temp._ Henry III.), was probably of much earlier foundation, +though doubtless enlarged by that lady. It fell into decay after the +Dissolution, but some remains of the old buildings are still to be seen +at _Ware Priory_, a mansion occupying the site. The property formed a +separate manor, which was given to the Countess of Richmond by her son, +Henry VII. + +Ware is not without literary association. The Johnny Gilpin, on the road +to Amwell, commemorates the hero of Cowper's ballad; Pepys mentions his +visits to the town on several occasions; Dick Turpin, as the story runs +in Ainsworth's _Rookwood_, passed through Ware in his famous ride to +York; Godwin, who figures so largely in the Lamb literature, was for +some years the Independent minister of the town. By a long ascent N. +from the town, we reach, by turning right, the hamlet of _Ware Side_, +picturesquely scattered over a slight depression close to _Widford_ +(_q.v._). W. from the town is _Ware Park_, a mansion on a beautiful +eminence. + +_Warren's Green_ (about 4 miles N.E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is +a small hamlet. + +_Water End_, on the river Gade, is on the S.W. confines of Gaddesden +Park. There are also hamlets of the same name (1) close to Ayot Station, +G.N.R.; (2) at the E. extremity of Mimms Park, 2 miles N.W. from +Potter's Bar Station (Middlesex). + +_Waterford_ and _Waterford Marsh_ are in Bengeo parish, on the river +Beane. On the marsh is some grazing common, free to all parishioners. + +_Waterside_ is the name of a few cottages (1) on the river Gade, near +King's Langley village; (2) at Mill Green, 1 mile N.E. from Hatfield. + +WATFORD, including its quickly rising suburbs, is much the largest town +in Hertfordshire. The Colne crosses the high road where it dips before +rising towards Bushey, and Chauncy says that the town derives its name +from the Wet Ford by which the river is crossed. The building of the +Junction Station (L.&N.W.R.), N.E. from the High Street, did much to +facilitate the growth of Watford and extend its trade; the railroad +diverges S.W. to Rickmansworth only, and N.E. to Bricket Wood, Park +Street and St. Albans; the main line from London passes through a long +tunnel before reaching King's Langley Station. The antiquities of the +town itself are less interesting and indeed less known than those of +other towns in the county, and Chauncy, _e.g._, finds little to say +about it. The manor was long held by the abbots of St. Albans; then it +became Crown property, and after several changes of ownership passed to +William, fourth Earl of Essex, whose descendants are still lords of the +manor. + +The parish church, on a small yard adjoining the S. side of the High +Street, is Perp., and was well restored about fifty years ago; with its +_Katherine-_ and _Essex Chapels_ it forms a large and imposing +structure. The latter chapel was built in 1595 by Bridget, Countess of +Bedford. Its monuments are very numerous and comprise (1) to Sir Charles +Morison, Kt. (d. 1599), and Dorothy his wife; note the fine kneeling +effigies; (2) to Sir Charles Morison, K.B., son of the foregoing (d. +1628), and the Hon. Mary (Hicks) his wife, with recumbent effigies one +above the other, and attendant figures of a daughter and two sons (note +the Corinthian columns which support the canopy overshadowing the +whole); both these Morison monuments were the work of Nicholas Stone, +mentioned in Walpole's _Anecdotes_; (3) altar-tomb to the founder of the +chapel (d. 1600); (4) altar-tomb with Tuscan columns and recumbent +effigy to Elizabeth, wife of Sir William Russell (d. 1611). Among the +brasses are those to (1) Henry Dickson (d. 1610); George Miller (d. +1613) and Anthony Cooper, "servants to Sir Charles Morryson, Kt."; (2) +imperfect, Hugo de Holes, Justice of the King's Bench (d. 1415), and +Margaretta his wife (d. 1416); (3) Henry Baldwyn of Reedheath (d. 1601), +Alice, his wife, and three children; (4) James Moss, a messenger to +George II. (d. 1758). + +There are modern churches: (1) St. John's, in the Sutton Road, a Gothic +edifice completed in 1893; (2) St. Andrew's, near the Junction, E.E. in +design, with a good stained glass window in the S. aisle, and a +beautiful Roman Catholic church by Bentley, architect of Westminster +cathedral. In Beechen Grove is one of the finest Nonconformist (Baptist) +chapels in the county; it dates from 1878 and is Italian in design. +Market day is on Tuesday. + +CASHIOBURY PARK stretches from the N.W. end of Watford, +reaching--together with Grove Park, which it joins--to the parting of +the ways at Langleybury Church (4 miles N.W. from Watford Old Church). +It is crossed from N. to S. by the river Gade. The present mansion dates +from 1800; it was built by Wyatt for the fifth Earl of Essex. Disposed +around an open courtyard, its many handsome apartments make a noble +appearance; what was formerly part of the N. wing of the old mansion +built by Sir Richard Morrison and his son Charles in the sixteenth +century is still retained, although that house was largely rebuilt by +the first earl, from designs furnished by Hugh May. There is a fine +library, and three smaller ones, the collection of books being very +valuable; but in the estimation of many the pictures are still more so. +Among them may be named: (1) Arthur Lord Capel and his family, C. +Janssens; this was the Capel who defended Colchester and was beheaded in +1649; (2) Charles II., by Lely; (3) fifth Earl of Essex as a boy with +his sister, by Reynolds, in frame carved by Grinling Gibbons; (4) +Countess of Ranelagh, full length, by Kneller; (5) portrait by Rubens, +probably of Charlotte de la Tremouille, afterwards Countess of Derby; +(6) "Moll Davis" (actress), by Lely. There are many others, especially +further portraits of the Capel family. The park and grounds are +beautifully laid out. The park is open to the public; but the house is +shown only by special request. + +WATTON or WATTON AT STONE is a large village on the Hertford-Stevenage +road and the river Beane, 31/2 miles S.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R. +Its position is very central, the roads from Ware, Hertford, Great and +Little Munden, Walkern, Stevenage, Welwyn and Tewin all converging +within the area of the main street. The church, at the S. end of the +village, is Perp.; it was entirely restored in 1851. Note (1) piscina +and triple sedilia in chancel; (2) doors formerly leading to rood loft; +(3) curious tombstone, E.E., in the churchyard; (4) E. window of stained +glass, dating from the Restoration; (5) memorial window in the S. aisle +to Lady Catherine Barrington. The brasses are unusually old and +interesting, _e.g._, (1) with canopied effigy, to Sir Philip Peletot (d. +1361); (2) to Sir E. Bardolf (d. 1455); the effigy is that of his wife, +his own having been long missing; (3) to John Boteler (Butler) and +family (1514). The Boteler family, to whom there are many other +memorials in the church, lived for many generations in the manor house +of Woodhall, burnt in 1771. The house stood on high ground in the +beautiful _Woodhall Park_, E. from Watton Church, on the site occupied +by the present fine mansion (Abel Smith, Esq., J.P.). The Beane flows +through the park and has been widened to form a large sheet of water S. +from the house. + +_Welham Green_ is between Hatfield- and Mimms Parks, 2 miles S. from +Hatfield Station. + +_Wellbury_ is 3 miles W. from Hitchin. _Wellbury House_ (modern) stands +in a small park; two small places of few inhabitants, called "Old" and +"New" Wellbury, lie on the N.E. outskirts of the Park. + +WELWYN, a small town in the Maran Valley, can show little of interest +beyond many quaint cottages, and the church, famous as that in which Dr. +Edward Young, author of _Night Thoughts_, officiated from 1730 to 1765. +He was buried in the church; the mural memorial to him was erected by +his son. The church is Dec., with E.E. portions; the piscina in the +chancel is ancient, the sedilia is modern. An inventory of the church +furniture, taken in 1541, shows that there were formerly three altars in +it. The avenue of limes in the rectory grounds was planted by Young; +there is a Latin inscription to the poet on a pedestal at its upper end. +His son was visited here by Dr. Johnson and James Boswell. + +The walk S.E. to the station (11/4 mile) commands a fine view of the Great +Northern viaduct of forty arches over the deeper portion of the Maran +Valley. On the opposite (left) side of the road is _Locksleys_, a good +mansion by the river side, surrounded by charming grounds. One mile S. +is _The Frythe_, long the residence of the Wilshere family; at a rather +less distance N. is _Danesbury_, a prettily designed mansion in a small +park. + +"King Etheldred ... willing to relieve his people from the barbarous +usuage and the inhuman actions of the insulting Danes ... sent +instructions to the Governors of all cities, boroughs and towns in his +dominions, commanding, that at a certain hour upon the feast of St. +Brice, all the Danes should be massacred; and common fame tells us that +this massacre began at a little town called Welwine in Hertfordshire, +within twenty-four miles of London, in the year 1012, from which Act, +'tis said this Vill received the name of Welwine, because the Weal of +this county (as it was then thought) was there first won; but the Saxons +long before called this town Welnes, from the many springs which rise in +this Vill; for in old time Wells in their language were term'd Welnes." + +One of the springs in the neighbourhood, now disused, was famous in +Young's day for its chalybeate waters. + +_West End_ is a hamlet 2 miles S.W. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. It +lies close to the N.W. corner of _Bedwell Park_, with the river Lea 1 +mile N. + +_West Hyde_, in the extreme S.W. of the county, near the river Colne, +has a modern cruciform church, Italian in style. + +WESTMILL, a church and picturesque cluster of cottages in a hollow a +little W. from the Buntingford Road, is 11/2 mile S. from that town. The +river Rib runs between the church and the station (G.E.R.). The manor is +ancient; it was given by William I. to Robert de Olgi. Nathanial Salmon, +author of a _History of Hertfordshire_ published in 1728, was once +curate here. + +The church very probably dates from the end of the thirteenth century, +and is an E.E. flint structure. There are some old slabs in the chancel +to the Bellenden family, and one on the nave floor bearing an +inscription to one Thomas de Leukenor (?). + +_Westmill Green_ is a hamlet 11/2 mile S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R. + +WESTON, a large village 3 miles S.E. from Baldock, has an interesting, +restored church, dating from about 1200. It has a N. transept, in which +are two good Norman windows; a piscina, E.E., is in the nave. The +massive embattled tower, which carries an octagonal, N.E. turret, was +rebuilt in 1867. In the churchyard may be seen two small stones, about +four yards apart, which, according to local tradition, mark the grave of +the Weston giant. The church was once a property of the Knights +Templars. There is what seems a second village just where a narrow +footpath leads from the Lufen Hall Road to the church, which stands 1/2 +mile E. from the long main street. Many folk may still be noticed +plaiting in the neighbourhood. + +_Weston Dane End_ (11/2 mile S. from the above village) is a hamlet on +the road to Walkern. + +_Westwick Row_ (2 miles S.E. from Hemel Hempstead) is a hamlet near +Leverstock Green, in a charming neighbourhood. + +WHEATHAMPSTEAD lies in a hollow, in the valley of the Lea. Cyclists +approaching the village from St. Albans by way of Sandridge and No Man's +Land must beware of the steep descent from the Old Red Cow to the Swan +Inn. The place undoubtedly owes its name to the fine wheat grown in the +neighbourhood; it is very picturesque, particularly around the church +and vicarage, and by the waterside towards _Brocket Hall_. + +The cruciform church, W. from the centre of the village, is E.E. and +Dec. with a few Perp. features. A doorway in the _Brocket Chapel_ is +supposed to be Saxon, but I cannot say whether the supposition is +correct; the chapel also contains an altar-tomb with effigies of Sir +John Brocket and his wife, Margaret, bearing date 1543, and a piscina in +the S. wall. A brass of much interest is that to Hugh Bostock and his +wife, Margaret (_circa_ 1450), showing their figures in robes. These +persons were the parents of John de Wheathampsted. (See St. Albans.) An +old marble tablet is to John Heyworth (d. 1558) and his wife Joan. Note +also the monumental effigies in N. transept to Sir John Garrard, Bart. +(d. 1637), and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1632). The _reredos_ is very fine. + +Forty years ago the village was truly rural, but the rebuilding of the +old mill between the church and station (G.N.R. branch from Hatfield to +Dunstable) and the erection of several modern shops in the main street +has altered its appearance. _Wheathampstead House_, close to the +station, is the seat of Earl Cavan; _Lamer Park_, a little N., slopes +pleasantly towards the fine home of A. G. B. Cherry-Garrard, Esq. + +Mention must be made of the curious bronze vessel of the Anglo-Saxon +period, resembling a teapot, found in the neighbourhood some years ago. +It is figured and described in the recently published _Victoria History +of Hertfordshire_. + +_Wheathampstead Cross_ (11/2 mile S.E. from Harpenden Station, M.R.) is 2 +miles S.W. from the above village. It contains nothing but a few +cottages. + +_Whempstead_, a hamlet in the centre of the county, is not easily +reached, being about 5 miles E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R., and +rather farther N.W. from Ware. The so-called _Whempstead Chapel_, +recently demolished, was a small cottage, but it doubtless stood near +the site of an old chapel "founded and endowed about the beginning of +the thirteenth century by the family of Aguillon". + +_White Barns_, near the Essex border, is a hamlet 3/4 mile N. from +Furneaux Pelham (_q.v._). + +_Whitwell_ (41/2 miles S.W. from Stevenage) is strictly a hamlet, but is a +place of some size, scattered along the S. bank of the river Maran. The +nearest parish church is at St. Paul's Walden (_q.v._), but there is a +modern Baptist chapel near the centre of the main street, and a small +church on the Bendish Road, formerly owned by the Countess of +Huntingdon's Connection; it is now partially disused. The mill at the E. +end of the village, near the old tan-yard, was burnt down many years +ago, but has since been rebuilt. + +_Widbury_ is 1 mile E. from Ware. + +WIDFORD, so interesting in the eyes of all lovers of Charles Lamb, is a +small village on the river Ash, with a station (G.E.R.) a few minutes W. +from the church. Visitors, however, must remember that much in the +neighbourhood has changed since Lamb's day. He himself recorded the +demolition of the old house "Blakesware" or, as he wrote it, +"Blakesmoor,"[o] which he knew so well as a child; the church spire, +mentioned in his verses "The Grandame," was rebuilt many years back; the +cottage at _Blenheim_ close by, immortalised in _Rosamund Gray_, was +long ago rebuilt. + +The church is Dec. and Perp.; there are sedilia in the chancel, the roof +of which was finely painted by Miss Gosselin forty years ago, and there +is a piscina in the nave. The circular stone staircase that formerly led +to the old rood-loft was built up during restoration. The present E. +window is to the memory of John Eliot--the missionary to the +Indians--born at Nazing early in the seventeenth century. There are very +few memorials; one might almost repeat the words written of the church +two centuries ago, "In this church are no gravestones". The manor is +very ancient and was held in the reign of William I. by the Bishop of +London. + +_Wigginton_ lies on very high ground, commanding splendid views. The +village is about 11/2 mile S.W. from Tring Station, L.&N.W.R.; the church, +near the parting of the roads at its S.E. extremity, is a small flint +structure, E.E. in style, with a modern N. aisle. It has no tower. +_Champneys_, near Wigginton Common (1 mile S.), is a prettily situated +mansion, rebuilt in 1874. It was formerly the residence of the Valpy +family. + +_Wilbury Hill_, between Ickleford and Baldock, is crossed by the Roman +Icknield Way. The _vallum_, through which the Way passes, is thought to +mark the site of a Roman camp; Stukeley's suggestion that it was +probably the site of a British _oppidum_ is questioned by Salmon +(_History of Hertfordshire_, 1728). Roman coins have been found in some +abundance in the neighbourhood, notably a silver _Faustina_. + +_Wild Hill_ is between Hatfield and Bedwell Parks. + +_Willian_, formerly Wylie (2 miles N.E. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.), +is very ancient, mention of it as a property dating from the times of +the Mercian kings. The village lies 1 mile W. from the Great North Road. +The church is thought to date from the Conquest, but only an arch in the +chancel is Norman. Note (1) the monument to "Edvardus Lacon" (d. 1625), +and Joanna his wife (d. 1624); (2) small brass to Richard Goldon, a +former vicar (d. 1446--? 1417). A tiny graveyard surrounds the church. +_Roxley Court_ (1/2 mile S.) is the property of Colonel Mortimer Hancock. + +_Wilstone_, near the Aylesbury Canal, lies in a hollow 2 miles S.E. from +Marston Gate Station, L.&N.W.R. It has a modern church, E.E. in style, +consisting of nave only. + +_Windridge_, a ward of St. Stephen's parish, is 11/2 mile S.W. from the +L.&N.W.R. Station at the foot of Holywell Hill, St. Albans. + +_Winter Green_ is on the N.W. confines of Knebworth Park, about 1 mile +from the church and 2 miles from the station (G.N.R.). The neighbourhood +is on high ground. + +_Woodend_ (31/2 miles S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) has a numerous +population, but is, I believe, a hamlet in Ardeley parish. The modern +Chapel of St. Alban the Martyr is built largely of small stones, and has +a S. porch. _Walkern Park_ is 3/4 mile S.W. + +_Woodhall_ (11/2 mile N.N.E. from Hatfield) is a scattered hamlet between +Stanborough and Hatfield Hyde. Two farms and several cottages bear the +name. Woodhall Woods are a little farther N. + +_Woodhill_ (about 31/2 miles S.E. from Hatfield) is prettily situated, +with _Brookmans_, _Hatfield_ and _Bedwell_ Parks all within a short +walk. St. Mark's Chapel-of-Ease was rebuilt in 1880, although originally +erected only in 1852 by the then Marquess of Salisbury. + +_Woodside_ is the name of at least three small places, (1) in the +neighbourhood of Hatfield, where Upper and Lower Woodside are at the +S.E. side of the park; (2) a ward in the parish of Cheshunt; (3) in the +parish of Leavesden. + +_Woollen's Brook_, on the Hoddesdon-Hertford road, has a tiny Mission +Church. It is a small hamlet, a little S. from Haileybury College. + +_Woolmer Green_ lies on the Great North Road, 1 mile S.E. from Knebworth +Station, G.N.R. The roads from Welwyn, Stevenage and Bramfield meet at +the S. end of the street. The hamlet is considerable. + +WORMLEY (1 mile S.W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is on the New +River. The church is at _Wormley Bury_, 1/2 mile W. from the village; it +is very ancient, but was restored twenty years ago. Note (1) Norman +font; (2) small Norman doorway on N. side; (3) "The Last Supper," by +Giacomo Palma, a fine picture over the communion table; (4) rebuilt +chancel arch; (5) Perp. windows in nave; (6) tablet on S. wall to Gough +the antiquary (d. at Enfield, 1809). Gough completed a translation of a +French history of the Bible in his thirteenth year, which was printed +for private circulation; he subsequently translated Fleury's work on +Israelitish customs and edited Camden's _Britannia_. He bequeathed many +MSS. to Oxford University. + +The church contains other modern monuments, and there are brasses (1) to +John Cleve, Rector (d. 1404); (2) to Edward Howton (d. 1479), his wife +and family; (3) to John Cok, his wife and eleven sons; date uncertain, +but presumably fifteenth century. Cok or Cock was the name of a very old +family in the neighbourhood, especially at Broxbourne. + +WYDDIAL (11/2 mile N.E. from Buntingford) was called _Widihale_ in +_Domesday Book_, and was given by William I. to Hardwin de Scalers. The +walk from Buntingford up the hill to the ruined church at Layston +(_q.v._), and thence to this village, leads through some of the quietest +spots in the county. The church is E.E., and stands on high ground a few +yards N. from the road and about 1 mile W. from the river Quin. It was +restored sixty years ago; but still retains two seventeenth-century +stained-glass windows in the aisle, and two Jacobean screens. The little +N. chapel of brick was built by one George Canon in 1632. The brasses +include (1) to George Gyll, Lord of the Manor (d. 1546); (2) to Dame +Margaret (Plumbe), a daughter of Sir Thomas Neville, Kt., and wife to +Sir Robert Southwell, Master of the Rolls (d. 1575). There are many +memorials to the Goulston family, several of whom were Lords of the +Manor; that to Sir Richard Goulston (d. 1686) bears a long inscription +in Latin. _Wyddial Hall_, in a small park close to the church, was the +property of the Goulstons. + +WYMONDLEY, GREAT or MUCH, is nearly 2 miles S.E. from Hitchin Station, +G.N.R. The church dates from early in the twelfth century, but has been +much restored. The font, the chancel arch, and three windows in the +chancel are said to be Norman; the tower is Perp. The memorials are +unimportant. + +The neighbourhood is interesting. The Lords of the Manor of Wymondley +Magna were formerly, as the newspapers have recently reminded us, +Cup-bearers to the King at his Coronation. Near the church are some +traces of an ancient fortification; a little S., and opposite a row of +quaint cottages with heavily thatched roofs, stands _Delamere House_, +once the property of Cardinal Wolsey, who is said to have been visited +here by Henry VIII. At the _Manor Farm_, Edward VI.--according to +tradition--once slept; the Green Man, close by, on the W. side of the +main street, has been kept by successive generations of one family for +300 years. Forty years ago several Roman urns were discovered in the +neighbourhood, and the well-preserved pavement of a Roman villa was +unearthed, subsequently, at Purwell Mill, between the village and +Hitchin. Prehistoric implements have also been found. + +WYMONDLEY, LITTLE, formerly Wymondley Parva, is 1 mile S. from the +above. The E. end of the street is crossed by the G.N.R. near the tiny +churchyard. The church is Perp.; and was largely rebuilt in 1875; two +earlier structures are thought to have occupied the site. It contains +several inscriptions, and some monuments to the Needham family +(seventeenth century). A Priory of Augustinian Canons, dedicated to St. +Mary, was founded here by Richard Argenton, in the reign of Henry III.; +it was suppressed at the Dissolution. When, in 1891, the _Old Priory_ +farm-house was being altered, some portions of two E.E. arches were +disclosed, and are thought to show where the cloister of the _Priory_ +stood. There is another E.E. arch in the house. + +YARDLEY. (See Ardeley.) + +_Youngsbury._ (See High Cross.) + + + + +INDEX OF PERSONS + + +A + +Abbot d'Aubeny, 62, 179, 188 + ---- Eadmer, 186 + ---- Ealdred, 186 + ---- Geoffrey de Gorham, 148, 179, 184, 185, 187 + ---- Hugh de Eversden, 189, 194 + ---- John de Berkhampstead, 189 + ---- John de Cella, 188 + ---- John de Hertford, 123, 189 + ---- John de Marinis, 189 + ---- John de la Moote, 64, 145, 198 + ---- John Wheathampsted, 146, 147, 167, 190, 193, 196, 225 + ---- Leofstan, 186 + ---- Michael de Mentmore, 189 + ---- Paul de Caen, 187, 191 + ---- Ralph, 119 + ---- Ramryge, 193 + ---- Robert de Gorham, 197 + ---- Roger de Norton, 63, 157, 189 + ---- Symon, 37, 188 + ---- Thomas de la Mare, 91, 179, 189 + ---- Ulsinus, 181, 182 + ---- Warren de Cambridge, 179, 184, 188 + ---- William de Trumpyntone, 188 + ---- Wm. Wallingford, 190 + +Adane (brass), 135 + +Adrian IV., 41, 45, 193 + +Aguillon family, 226 + +Alan the Red, 85 + +Alban, a rector (brass), 103 + ---- St., 31, 37, 59, 177, 186, 188, 193 + +Albyn (brass), 114 + +Aldenham, Lord, 49 + +Alford, Lady M., 99, 154 + +Alfred the Great, 31, 117, 118 + +Altham, Helen, 159 + ---- Sir J., 159 + +Alwin the Thane, 48 + +Amphibalus, St., 37, 166, 177, 188, 193 + +Anestie, Rich. de, 51 + +Anne of Bohemia, 136 + ---- Mortimer, 137 + +Anorbul, Wm. (brass), 107 {Annabull in text} + +Anthony, W., 81 + +Antoninus (quoted), 84, 94, 117, 177 + +Aram, Eugene, 127, 201 + +Arbuthnot, C. G., 94 + +Archer, Robt., 85 + +Argenthem, R. de, 60 + +Argenton, Rich., 233 + +Arnald the "Leveller," 120 + +Ascham, Roger, 110 + +Asser, 117 + +Athelstan, 51 + +Atkins, Sir E., 47 + +Axtil, Henry, 157 + +Aylmer, Bishop, 103 + ---- Judith, 103 + + +B + +Babthorpe, Ralph, 182 + +Bache, Simon (brass), 141 + +Bacon, Francis, 40, 161, 183, 184 + +Bacon, Sir Nich., 184 + +Baesh family, 175, 203, 204 + +Baker, H. W. Clinton-, 69 + ---- W. R., 68 + +Baldwyn family (brass), 219 + +Barclay, E. E., 78 + +Bardolf, Sir E. (brass), 221 + +Barrington family, 141, 221 + +Bartolommeo, 160 + +Basset, Alan, 213 + ---- Wm., 174 + +Baugiard, Ralph, 130 + +Baxter, Rich., 41, 135, 199, 209 + +Beaufort, Edmund, 196 + +Becket, Thomas, 76 + +Bede (quoted), 117, 178, 186, 193 + +Beel family (brass), 127 + +Beldam, J., F.S.A., 173 + +Bell, John (brass), 166 + +Bellenden family, 224 + +"Belted Will Howard," 63 + +Benham, Canon, quoted, 50 + +Benson, Mgr. R. H., 43 + +Benstede, Sir J., 71 + +Beresford family, 150 + +Bernard de Baliol, 126, 163 + +Bertulf, King, 71 + +Bessemer, Sir H., 41 + +Bickerdy, Marmaduke, 46 + +Binning, Lord, 63 + +Bishop, Mr., 31 + +Blomfield, Sir A. W., 49, 55, 93, 105, 168, 205 + +Blount family, 170, 171 + ---- Sir H., 145 + +Boadicea, 31, 212 + +Bodley, Mr. G. F., 85, 209 + +Bokeland, Nich. de, 80 + +Boleyn, Anne, 58 + +Bonham, Miss, 59 + +Bonner, Bishop, 41, 179 + +Borrell, Sir J. (brass), 80 + +Bostock, Hugh, 147, (brass) 225 + ---- Margaret (brass), 225 + +Boswell, James, 40, 222 + +Boteler family, 57, (brass) 81, 150, 221 + +Bouchier, Sir T., 139 + +Bowlby, A. S., 100 + +Bradby, Canon, 106 + +Brakespear, Nich., 41, 45, 193 {Breakspeare in text} + +Bramfield family (brass), 87 + +Braybroke, Bishop, 103 + +Bridget, Countess, 219 + +Bridgewater family (see Egerton) + +Brockett family, 113, 225 + +Browne, Dean J., 121 + +Buckingham, Duke of, 195 + +Bucknall family, 159 + +Bunsen, Baron, 209 + +Bunyan, John, 40, 88, 127, 163 + +Burghley, Lord, 109, 110, 111, 215 + +Burgo, Elizabeth de, 82 + +Burgundy, Duke of, 66 + +Burnet, Bishop, 63 + +Butterfield, W., 64 + + +C + +Caesar family, 71 + +Calvert family, 121 + +Canon, Geo., 231 + +Capell family, 42, 104, 105, 218, 220, 221 + +Carlo Dolce, 160 + +Caroline, Queen, 156 + +Carter family (brass), 138 + +Cary family (brasses), 49, 130, 132, 169 + +Cassivelaunus, 34 {Cassivellaunus in text} + +Catherine of Arragon, 148 + ---- Braganza, 184 + +Cavan, Earl, 42, 226 + +Cecil, Sir Robt., 42, 109, 110, 113, 215 + ---- Thomas, 111 + +Chamberlain, Sir W., 196 + +Chamber, Father (brass), 172 + +Chantrey (sculptor), 81 + +Chapman, Geo., 40, 127 + +Chapple, John, 192 + +Charlemagne, 186 + +Charles I., 32, 46, 111, 119, 173, 197, 216 + ---- II., 32, 105, 176, 210, 216, 220 + +Chaucer, 39 + +Chauncy family, 100 + ---- Sir H, (quoted), 31, 46, 52, 54, 58, 63, 66, 74, 81, 84, 87, 91, + 96, 100, 115, 132, 137, 150, 157, 174, 175, 182, 200, 207, 218 + +Chester family, 61 + ---- Robt., 173 + +Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, 199 + +Citroen, David, 94 + +Clarendon, Earl of, 43, 143 + +Clarkson (charity), 60 + ---- Thomas, 208 + +Cleve, Rev. John (brass), 230 + +Clifford, Lord John, 196 + +Clinton family, 61 + +Clutterbuck, Robt. (quoted), 31, 180 + +Clyfford, Eliza. (brass), 56 + ---- Sir Robt. (brass), 56 + +Cobb, Rev. J. W., 31 + +Cock, Sir H., 80 + ---- (Cok) family (brasses), 231 + +Cogdell, T. (brass), 46 + +Coke, Mildred, 111 + +Conan, Duke of Brittany, 153 + +Coningsby, Sir R., 151 + +Cooch, 60 + +Cooper, Anthony (brass), 219 + ---- Sir A. Paston, 115 + ---- Sir A. Paston Paston, 116 + +Cottenham, Lord, 209 + +Cotton, Dr., 40, 180, 182 + ---- Sir J., 154 + +Courtenay, Henry, 94 + +Covert, Sir H. (brass), 150 + +Cowper, Ann, 72 + ---- family, 42, 121, 143, 161 + ---- William, 40, 71, 72, 73, 148, 180, 182 + +Cressye, W. and G. (brasses), 107 + +Cromwell, Oliver, 32, 120 + ---- Richard, 86 + +Crossman, Mr. Alan F., 21 + +Crouchback, Edmund, 53 + +Crowch family, 142 + +Cudworth, 41 + +Curll, William, 113 + +Cussans, J. E., 31, 130 + +Cutts, Sir John, 201 + + +D + +Dacre family, 136 + +Dacres, Robert, 85 + +David of Scotland, 119 + +Day family (brass), 169 + +De Furneaux family, 97, 205 + +Delawood, W. (brass), 130 + +Denny, Lady M. (brass), 75 + +De Ros family, 93 + +De Toni family, 93 + +Desborough, Lord, 159 + +Devereux, Robt., 184 + +Dickens, Chas., 40, 140 + +Dickson, Henry (brass), 219 + +"Dick Turpin," 217 + +Dion Cassius (quoted), 31 + +Dixon, Nich. (brass), 85 + +Docwra family, 145, 162 + +Doddridge, Rev. P., 41 + +Dodyngton family (brasses), 177 + +Dowman family (brass), 155 + +Duckett, Sir G., 75 + +Dugdale, quoted, 52, 71, 207 + +Dyer, Sir W. (brass), 154 + + +E + +Ebury, Lord, 42, 169 + +Edelwine the Black, 45, 166 {Egelwine in text} + +Edgar, King, 103, 105, 108 + +Edmund de Langley, 136, 137 + ---- of Hadham, 103 + ---- St., 193 + +Edward I., 180, 214 + ---- II., 136, 210 + ---- III., 72, 82, 85, 103 + ---- IV., 65, 183 + ---- VI., 56, 108, 110, 154, 168, 202, 232 + ---- Black Prince, 72 + ---- the Elder, 118 + +Egerton family, 42, 47, 53, 98, 154 + +Egfrith, 198 + +Eleanor, Queen, 180, 214 + +Eliot, John, 227 + +Elizabeth, Queen, 32, 56, 75, 95, 108, 109, 111, 114, 119, 131, 132, 140, + 184, 197, 202, 215 + +Ellis, Thos. and Grace, 121 + +Elwes family, 208 + +Entwysel, Sir B., 182 + +Eric (Baron Reay), 70 + +Essex, Earls of (see Capell) + +Ethelbert, 186 + +Etheldred, 223 + +Etheric, Bishop, 207 + +Eustace de Mere, 172 + ---- Earl of Boulogne, 130 + +Evans, Sir John, K.C.B., 33, 35, 138, 153, 155 + +Evelyn, John, 26 + + +F + +Fanshawe, Sir Rich., 63, 216 + +Feilde family, 204 + +Field, Dr. Nat., 41 + +Fitzroy, James, 169 + +Flambard, Simon, 103 + +Flaunden, Thos., 96 + +Fleetwood, Bishop, 41 + +Floyer (Flyer?) family, 78 + +Forester family, 89 + +Forster, John, 40, 140 + +Fortescue, Sir Rich., 196 + +Fouke, Sir B., 95 + +Fountaine, Andrew, 151 + +Fox, George, 41, 127 + +Freeman, Dr., 58 + +Frewell (Knight), 153 + +Frowyk family (brasses), 152 + + +G + +Garrard, A. G. B. Cherry-, 226 + ---- Sir J. and Elizabeth, 225 + +Gaveston, Piers, 41, 136 + +Geoffrey, Johannes (brass), 198 + ---- Treasurer, 46 + +George II., 219 + ---- III., 209 + +Gernon, Robt., 144 + +Gerrard de Furnival, 152 + +Giacomo Palma, 230 + +Giant of Weston, 102, 224 + +Gibbons, Grinling, 220 + +Gibbs, Mr. A. E., F.L.S. (quoted), 31, 185 + +Gildas, 178, 186 + +Giles-Puller, G. B., 124 + +Glamis, Lord, 43 {Not found in text} + +Glascocke, Hon. Sir W., 138 + +Godwin, Harold, 58, 165 + +Godwin, Leofwin, 164 + ---- William, 41, 217 + +Goisfride de Bech, 145 + +Goldon, Rich. (brass), 229 + +Gore family, 100, 104, 210 + +Gosselin, Miss, 227 + +Gough the Antiquary, 230 + +Goulston family, 231 + +Gray, James (brass), 132 + +Grimston family, 184, 206 + +Grimthorpe, Lord, 43, 179, 181, 183, 185, 191 + +Grose, F. (quoted), 23, 84, 194 + +Gyll, Geo. (brass), 231 + + +H + +Haggard, Mr. H. Rider, 54 + +Hall, Robert, 135 + +Halsey family, 98 + +Hamilton, Hon. Geo., 101 + ---- Jane, 101 + +Hampden, Viscount, 42, 136 + +Hanbury, C. A., 63 + +Hancock, Col. M., 229 + +Harcourt family, 48 + +Hardwicke, Earl, 145 + +Hardwin de Scalers, 125, 231 + +Harrington, Sir W., 121 + +Harrison, Sir John, 120 + +Harvey, Sir Garrett, 104 {Garratt in text} + +Hawksmoor, Nich., 201 + +Helen, St., 59 + +Helle, Roger, 136 + +Henry II., 63, 72 + ---- III., 83, 85, 136, 168 + ---- IV., 91, 119 + ---- V., 91, 119, 141, 200 + ---- VI., 56, 119, 138, 141, 175, 195, 196 + ---- VII., 110, 217 + ---- VIII., 58, 80, 85, 108, 132, 148, 201, 202, 232 + ---- of Huntingdon, 117 + +Herkomer, Prof., 106 + +"Hermit of Herts," 205 + +Hert, James (brass), 127 + +Heydon family, 159 + +Heyworth, John and Joan, 225 + +Hide family, 48 + ---- Leonard, 131 + +Hippolits, St., 134 + +Hogarth, 143 + +Holes, Justice (brass), 219 + +Hollinshed (quoted), 196 {Hollinshead in text} + +Hoore family (brass), 92 + +Hopkinson, Mr. J., F.L.S., 12 + +Horsley, Bishop, 41 + +Horwode, Ralph (brass), 46 + +Hotoft, John (brass), 141 + +Howard of Escrick, 176 + +Howe, Lord, 201 + +Howton family (brass), 230 + +Hugh of Lincoln, 193 + +Hughes family (brasses), 134 + +Humberstone family (brasses), 213 + +Humphrey, Duke of Gloster, 190 {Gloucester in text} + ---- Earl, 195 + +Hutchinson, 48 + + +I + +Incent, Dr. John, 71 + +Isabel of Castile, 136, 137 + +Isabella of France, 119 + ---- (2nd wife, Rich. II.), 120 + + +J + +Jack o' Legs, 102, 224 + +James I., 41, 42, 109, 111, 119, 131, 173, 197, 215 + ---- II., 32, 176 + +Janeway, James, 135 + ---- John, 135 + +Janssens, C., 143, 161, 220 + +Jennings, Admiral, 61 + ---- family, 199 + +Jerrold, Douglas, 140 + +Joan of Navarre, 91, 119 + +Jocelin family, 200 + +Jocelyn, Sir R., 56 + +John, 125 + ---- "Gilpin," 217 + ---- of France, 119 + ---- of Gaunt, 118 + +Johnson, Dr., 40, 222 + +Jones, Inigo, 140 + +Joyce, Cornet, 32 + +Julian the Apostate, 36 + + +K + +Katharine Tudor, 103, 119, 120 {Katherine in text} + +Kemp, Bishop, 103 + +Ken, Bishop, 41, 73 + +Kent family (brass), 56 + +Kesteven, W. (brass), 150 + +Kit Cat Club, 69 + +Kneller, 69, 111, 143, 161, 221 + +Knighton, Sir G., 68 + +Knolles family (brass), 150 + +Kybeworth, Thos., 134 {Bybsworth in text} + + +L + +Lacon, Edward and Joanna, 229 + +Lamb, Chas., 28, 40, 49, 101, 146, 147, 227 + ---- Mary, 146 + ---- Sir M., 114 + +Lambard (brass), 124 + +Langley, W. (brass), 81 + +Lanvalei family, 213 + +Lawes, Sir J. B., 108 + +Lee family, 209 + ---- Nathaniel, 40 + ---- Sir Rich., 185 + ---- ---- W. de la, 46 + +Lely, 111, 143, 220, 221 + +Leoni (architect), 169 + +Leukenor (?), Thos., 224 + +Leventhorpe family (brasses), 200 + +Lewin, Earl, 116 + +Lightfoot (Hebraist), 41 + ---- J. (brass), 152 + +Limesy, Ralph, 119, 162 + +Long, Alderman (brass), 49 + +Louis XI., 66 + ---- (Dauphin), 118 + ---- XVIII., 173 + +Louthe family (brasses), 121, 207 + +Loyd, W. J., 142 + +Lucas, James, 205 + +Luini, 54 + +Lushington family, 55 + +Lyde, Sir L., 57 + +Lytton, Bulwer, 40, 140 + ---- family, 139, 140, 141, 144 + ---- Lord, 42 + + +M + +Macaulay, Lord, 40, 55, 171 + +Magnaville, G. de, 100, 149 + ---- Sir Hugh de, 149 + +"Maid of the Mill," 165 + +Makery, Thos., 147 + +Manning, Cardinal, 209 + +Margaret of Anjou, 119, 138, 196 + ---- Countess, 217 + +Marjoribanks, Edward, 83 + +Martin, Mr. T. H., 12 + +Mary (March. Salisbury), 112 + ---- Tudor, 56, 108, 110, 137, 202 + +Mattok (brasses), 127 + +Matthew of Westminster (quoted) 76 + ---- Paris (quoted), 40, 158, 166, 179, 186, 192 + +Maundeville, Sir J., 40 + +Maurice, Bishop, 74, 228 + +Mawley, Edward, 12 + +May, Hugh, 220 + +Mayne family (brasses), 75 + +Meetkerke, Sir A., 174 + +Melbourne, Lord, 42, 114 + +Miles, General, 85 + +Miller, Geo. (brass), 219 + +"Moll Davis," 221 + +Monk, General, 216 + +Monmouth (see Fitzroy) + +Montacute, 67 + ---- family, 201 + +More, Sir Thos., 40, 151 + +Moreton, Earl, 116 + +Morison family, 219, 220 + +Morris, Dr. J., 93 + +Moss, James (brass), 219 + +Murillo, 94 + +Myddleton, Sir Hugh, 10, 50 {Myddelton in text} + + +N + +Needham family, 232 + +Nevil, Robt. and Elizabeth, 46 + +Nevill, Archbishop, 169 + ---- Sir Robt., 147 + ---- Thos., 56 + +Neville, Sir Thos., 231 + +Newce family (brasses), 104 + +Newmarch, Isabel, 120 + +Newport, Edward, 78 + ---- Robt. (brass), 97 + +Nicholson, Dr. J., 31, 192 + +Nodes family (brasses), 202 + +Nollekens (sculptor), 158, 208 + +Norden, J. (quoted), 11, 102, 116, 117, 134 + + +O + +Odo, Bishop, 165 + +Offa of Mercia, 116, 122, 158, 168, 178, 186 + +Ogard, Andrew, 175 + +Oldhall, Sir J., 132 + +Oudeby, John (brass), 95 + +Overbury (brass), 144 + +Owen, John, 65 + ---- Tudor, 103 + + +P + +Paine (architect), 114 + +Palmerston, Lord, 42 + +Parker, Dr., 12 + ---- family (brass), 166 + +Parr family, 58 + +Pecok, John and "Maud" (brass), 183 + ---- Rich. (brass), 167 + +Peletot, Sir P. (brass), 221 + +Pemberton, Roger (brass), 181 + +Penn, William, 41, 87, 168 + +Penrice, Sir H., 158 + +Pepys, Sir Lucas, 209 + ---- Samuel, 26, 65, 164, 217 + +Percy, Henry, 195 + +Peri, 162 + +Perient, J. (brass), 91 + ---- J., junr. (brass), 92 + +Peter de Valoignes, 118, 125 + ---- the Great, 111 + ---- "Wild Boy," 156 + +Piers Gaveston, 41, 136 + +"Piers Shonkes," 78 + +Pietro Cavalini, 214 + +Piozzi, Mrs., 158 + +Pitman, Dr., 148 + +Pitt, William, 184 + +Plowden, W. C. M., 68 + +Plumbe, M. (brass), 231 + +Plumer, Col. J., 101 + ---- family, 100 + ---- William, 101 + +Pope (quoted), 171 + ---- Sir T., 109 + +Portland, Earl, 216 + +Poyidres, R. (brass), 134 {Poydres in text} + +Poynard family (brass), 61 + +Prescott, Sir G. W., 215 + +Prest, Johannes, 120 + +Priestley, Wm., 94 {Priestly in text} + +Prior, Matt. (quoted), 128 + +Pryor, A. Reginald, 15 + ---- Charity, 60 + +Pulter family, 89, (brasses) 127 + +Pygott, T. (brass), 207 + +Pyke, W. (brass), 85 + +Pym family, 166 + +Pyrry family (brasses), 216 + + +R + +Radcliffe, F. A. D., 125 + +Randolph, Thos., 103 + +Ranelagh, Lady, 111, 120 + +Ransom, W., 25 + +Raphael, 160 + +Raven, J. (brass), 72 + +Ravenscroft family, 65 + +Rawdon, Sir M., 129 + +Raymond, Lord Justice, 46 + +Read(e) family, 113 + +Reay, Martha, 93 + +Reed, Isaac, 50 + +Rembrandt, 161 + +Revett (architect), 57 + +Reynes, Elizabeth, 94 + +Reynolds, Sir J., 111, 112, 220 + +Rhodes, Cecil, 74 + +Richard II., 91, 136, 137, 183 + ---- Duke of York, 195 + ---- Earl of Cambridge, 138 + +Richmond, Countess, 217 + +Ridley, Bishop, 41, 132, 168 + +Robert, W. (brass), 92 + ---- de Olgi, 224 + ---- ---- Sigillo, 46 + ---- Earl of Ewe, 210 + +Robins (brass), 183 + +Robinson, Mrs., 59 + +Roe, 60 + +Roesia, Dame, 172 + +Roger of Wendover, 37 + ---- the Monk, 148, 156 + +Romanelli (sculptor), 142 + +"Rosamund Gray," 227 + +Rothschild family, 42, 210 + +Roubeliac (sculptor), 121 + +Rous, T. B., 170 + +Rubens, 54, 126, 221 + +Rumbold, "Hannibal," 175, 176 + +Russell family, 86, 176, 219 + +Ryder, H. C. D., 133 + +Rysbrack (sculptor), 61, 208 + + +S + +Sabine, Sir J., 207 + +Sadleir family, 202 + ---- Sir Ralph, 42, 202, 203 + +Salisbury family, 42, 94, 108, 110, 111, 113 + +Salmon, Nat., 31, 224, 228 + +Salusbury family, 158 + +Salvator Rosa, 160 + +Samwell family (brass), 158 + +Sandwich, Earl of, 93 + +Saraye, W. (brass), 204 + +Saunders, James, 20, 21 + ---- Thos., 95 + +Saxony, Duke of, 122 + +Say, Sir W., 79 + +Sayer, John, 72, 73 + +Scales family, 172 + +Scott, John, 40, 50 + ---- Sir Gilbert, 82, 96, 143, 180, 182, 191, 192 + ---- Sir W., 77 + +Seabrooke family, 107 + +Seddon, J. P., 59 + +Selina, Countess, 86, 227 + +Sexi the Dane, 123 + +Shaw, Mr. Norman, 76 + +Sherlock, Bishop, 41 + +Shrimpton, Robt., 194 + +Sidney, Algernon, 176 + +Sigar the Hermit, 156 + +Skelton, John, 40 + +Smith, Abel, 222 + +Smith-Bosanquet, Major G. R. B., 80 + ---- W. G., 33, 155 + +Somer (brass), 133 + +Somers, Lord, 41, 150, 151 + +Southwell, Sir Robt., 231 + +Spencer, Sir R., 158 + +Sperehawke, J. (brass), 127 + +Spycere, Eliz., 74 + +Stables, Lt.-Col., 130 + +Stapleford, H. and D., 197 + +Stephen, 210 + +Stern, Mrs., 63 + +Stigand, Archbishop, 56 + +St. Legier family, 158 + +Stone, Nich., 219 + +Stow, John (quoted), 196 + +Strathmore, Lord, 197 + +Stratton, John, 73 + +Strong, Edward, 182 + +Stuart, Lady A., 63 + +Stukeley, Dr., 228 + +Styles, B. H., 169, 170 + +Sudley, Lord, 195 + + +T + +Taberam, W. (brass), 172 + +Tacitus (quoted), 31, 213 + +Tankerville, G., 179 + +Taverner family, 121 + +Thomson, James, 63 + +Thornbury family, 153 + ---- Sir John, 83, 153 + +Thornhill, Sir James, 170 + +Thrale, Mrs., 158 + +Thurtell, 93 + +Tillotson, Archbishop, 41 + +Tinworth, 70 + +Titian, 54 + +Titus, Silas, 83 + +Tonson, 69 {Not found in text} + +Tooke family, 94 + ---- Wm. (brass), 94 + +Torrington, Margaret, 72 + ---- Rich., 72 + +Townsend, Chas., 120 + +Tremouille, Charlotte, 221 + +Trigg, Henry, 205 + +Turenne, 161 + +Tykering, Rich., 64 + +Tymms (quoted), 24 + + +U + +Usher, Archbishop, 104 + + +V + +Valpy family, 228 + +Vandyck, 111, 143 + +Van Somer, 111, 143, 161 + +Verulam, Earl, 43 + +Vere, Sir R., 196 + +Veronese, 160 + +Villiers family, 143, 161, 184 + +Vynter, John (brass), 87 + + +W + +Walchelin, Bishop, 89 + +Walpole, Horace, 219 + +Walton, Izaak, 40, 128 + +Ward, Dr. Seth, 55, 81 + ---- Mrs. H., 47 + +Waren, Rich. (brass), 105 + +Warham, Bishop, 41 + +Warner, W., 50 + +Warwick, "Kingmaker," 66, 67, 195, 196 + +Watson, H. C., 15 + +Watts, Isaac, 41 + +Weare, William, 93 + +Wentworth, Thos., 184 + +Whitefield, Geo., 127 + +Whithred, King, 73 + +Whittingham, Sir R., 48 + +Wilkie, 111 + +Willet, Dr. A. (brass), 61 + +William I., 24, 31, 74, 85, 102, 116, 118, 125, 165, 210, 224, 231 + ---- III., 111 + ---- de Cantilupe, 125 + ---- Earl of Ewe, 102, 125 + ---- Earl of Salisbury, 119 + ---- of Malmesbury, 110, 117, 186 + +Willis, Thos., 119 + +Wilshere family, 223 + +Wincelfled, 45, 166 + +Wodehouse, R. (brass), 129 + +Wolsey, Cardinal, 41, 86, 169, 232 + +Wolvey, Thos. (brass), 183 + +Wortham, Hale, 12 + +Wren, Sir C, 210 + +Wright, John (brass), 87 + +Wyatt (architect), 53, 98, 200, 220 + +Wykins, John, 86 + +Wyndham, Mrs. E. (brass), 182 + +Wynne, 60 + +Wyrley, Thos. (brass), 143 + + +Y + +Yarrell, Wm., 69 + +Young, Edward, 40, 222 + ---- Robert, 148 + + +Z + +Zucchero, 110, 112, 143 + +PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY +JARROLD AND SONS, LTD., NORWICH + + + + +=THE LITTLE GUIDES= + +PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS + +DELIGHTFUL GIFT BOOKS + +Pott 8vo, =4s.= net to =7s. 6d.= net + +THE 59 VOLUMES IN THE SERIES ARE:-- + +Bedfordshire and Huntingdonshire +Berkshire +Brittany +Buckinghamshire +Cambridge and Colleges +Cambridgeshire +Channel Islands +Cheshire +Cornwall +Cumberland and Westmoreland +Derbyshire +Devon +Dorset +Durham +English Lakes +Essex +Gloucestershire +Hampshire +Herefordshire +Hertfordshire +Isle of Wight +Kent +Kerry +Lancashire +Leicestershire and Rutland +Lincolnshire +London +Malvern Country +Middlesex +Monmouthshire +Norfolk +Normandy +Northamptonshire +Northumberland +North Wales +Nottinghamshire +Oxford and Colleges +Oxfordshire +Rome +St Paul's Cathedral +Shakespeare's Country +Shropshire +Sicily +Snowdonia +Somerset +South Wales +Staffordshire +Suffolk +Surrey +Sussex +Temple +Warwickshire +Westminster Abbey +Wiltshire +Worcestershire +Yorkshire East Riding +Yorkshire North Riding +Yorkshire West Riding +York (_in preparation_) + +METHUEN & CO. 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LTD, 36 ESSEX ST., LONDON, W.C.2 + + +{Transcriber's notes + +[a] "protusion" changed to "protrusion" + +[b] "protusion" changed to "protrusion" + +[c] "filixfoemina" changed to "filixfaemina" + +[d] "Guillemot" changed to "guillemot"; + "Locustella noevia" changed to "Locustella naevia" + +[e] "Icene" changed to "Iceni" + +[f] "Wincelfied" changed to "Wincelfled" + +[g] "Aldeberie" unclear in original but checked with other sources + +[h] "in" changed to "is" + +[i] "Wymondly" changed to "Wymondley" + +[j] "From" changed to "from" + +[k] "L.&S.W.R." changed to "L.&N.W.R." + +[l] "Julian's" changed to "Julians" + +[m] "projectin gentrance" changed to "projecting entrance" + +[n] "Pishobury" changed to "Pishiobury" + +[o] "Blakemoor" changed to "Blakesmoor" + +The following place names have inconsistent spellings: +Abbot's Langley, Abbots Langley +Gubblecote, Gubblecot +Luffenhall, Lufen Hall +Piccott's End, Piccotts End +(St.) Ippollitts, Ippollit's, Ippollits + +Some of the index entries do not correspond exactly to the body of the +text. The differences are as follows: + +Index Text + +Anorbul Annabull +Brakespear Breakspeare +Cassivelaunus Cassivellaunus +Edelwine Egelwine +Hollinshed Hollinshead +Glamis Not found in text +Humphrey, Duke of Gloster Gloucester +Harvey, Sir Garrett Garratt +Katharine Tudor Katherine +Kybeworth Bybsworth +Myddleton, Sir Hugh Myddelton +Poyidres Poydres +Priestley Priestly +Tonson Not found in text + +} + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hertfordshire, by Herbert W Tompkins + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HERTFORDSHIRE *** + +***** This file should be named 18252.txt or 18252.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/2/5/18252/ + +Produced by Louise Pryor and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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