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diff --git a/17107-8.txt b/17107-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..20eb1b0 --- /dev/null +++ b/17107-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11043 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and +Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Two, by Thomas Frognall Dibdin + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Two + +Author: Thomas Frognall Dibdin + +Release Date: November 19, 2005 [EBook #17107] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A BIBLIOGRAPHICAL *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Connal, Paul Ereaut and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + + + + +A + +BIBLIOGRAPHICAL + +_Antiquarian_ + +AND + +PICTURESQUE TOUR. + + + + +PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE +Shakespeare Press. + + + + +[Illustration: ANN OF BRITTANY. +From an Illustrated Missal in the Royal Library at Paris.] + + +London. Published June 1829. by R. Jennings. Poultry. + + + + +A + +BIBLIOGRAPHICAL + +_Antiquarian_ + +AND + +PICTURESQUE TOUR + +IN + +FRANCE AND GERMANY. + +BY THE REVEREND +THOMAS FROGNALL DIBDIN, D.D. + +MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AT ROUEN, AND OF THE +ACADEMY OF UTRECHT. + +SECOND EDITION. + +VOLUME II. + + + +DEI OMNIA PLENA. + +LONDON: + +PUBLISHED BY ROBERT JENNINGS, +AND JOHN MAJOR. + +1829. + + + + +CONTENTS OF VOLUME II. + + + + +CONTENTS. + +VOLUME II. + + + +LETTER I. + +PARIS. _The Boulevards. Public Buildings. Street Scenery. +Fountains_. 1 + +LETTER II. + +_General Description of the Bibliothèque du Roi. The +Librarians_. 42 + +LETTER III. + +_The same subject continued_. 64 + +LETTER IV. + +_The same subject continued_. 82 + +LETTER V. + +PARIS. _Some Account of the early printed and rare +Books in the Royal Library_. 101 + +LETTER VI. + +_Conclusion of the Account of the Royal Library. The +Library of the Arsenal_. 144 + +LETTER VII. + +_Library of Ste. Geneviève. The Abbé Mercier St. +Léger. Library of the Mazarine College, or Institute. +Private Library of the King. Mons. Barbier, +Librarian_. 169 + +_Introduction to Letter VIII_. 209 + +LETTER VIII. + +_Some Account of the late Abbé Rive. Booksellers. +Printers. Book Binders_. 214 + +LETTER IX. + +_Men of Letters. Dom Brial. The Abbé Bétencourt. +Messrs. Gail, Millin, and Langlès. A Roxburghe +Banquet_. 251 + +LETTER X. + +_The Collections of Denon, Quintin Craufurd, and the +Marquis de Sommariva_. 279 + +LETTER XI. + +_Notice of M. Willemin's Monumens Français inédits. +Miscellaneous Antiquities. Present State of the +Fine Arts. General Observations upon the National +Character_. 317 + +LETTER XII. + +_Paris to Strasbourg. Nancy_. 343 + +LETTER XIII. + +STRASBOURG. _Establishment of the Protestant Religion. +The Cathedral. The Public Library_. 374 + +LETTER XIV. + +_Society. Environs of Strasbourg. Domestic Architecture. +Manners and Customs. Literature. Language_. 413 + + +[Illustration] + + +_LETTER I._ + +PARIS. THE BOULEVARDS. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. STREET SCENERY. FOUNTAINS.[1] + + +_Paris, June 18, 1818_. + +You are probably beginning to wonder at the tardiness of my promised +Despatch, in which the architectural minutiæ of this City were to be +somewhat systematically described. But, as I have told you towards the +conclusion of my previous letter, it would be to very little purpose to +conduct you over every inch of ground which had been trodden and described +by a host of Tourists, and from which little of interest or of novelty +could be imparted. Yet it seems to be absolutely incumbent upon me to say +_something_ by way of local description. + +Perhaps the BOULEVARDS form the most interesting feature about Paris. I +speak here of the _principal_ Boulevards:--of those, extending from _Ste. +Madelaine_ to _St. Antoine_; which encircle nearly one half the capital. +Either on foot, or in a carriage, they afford you singular gratification. A +very broad road way, flanked by two rows of trees on each side, within +which the population of Paris seems to be in incessant agitation--lofty +houses, splendid shops, occasionally a retired mansion, with a parterre of +blooming flowers in front--all manner of merchandize exposed in the open +air--prints, muslins, _kaleidoscopes_, (they have just introduced them[2]) +trinkets, and especially watch chains and strings of beads, spread in gay +colours upon the ground--the undulations of the chaussée--and a bright blue +sky above the green trees--all these things irresistibly rivet the +attention and extort the admiration of a stranger. You may have your boots +cleaned, and your breakfast prepared, upon these same boulevards. +Felicitous junction of conveniences! + +This however is only a hasty sketch of what may be called a morning scene. +AFTERNOON approaches: then, the innumerable chairs, which have been a long +time unoccupied, are put into immediate requisition: then commences the +"high exchange" of the loungers. One man hires two chairs, for which he +pays two sous: he places his legs upon one of them; while his body, in a +slanting position, occupies the other. The places, where these chairs are +found, are usually flanked by coffee houses. Incessant reports from drawing +the corks of beer bottles resound on all sides. The ordinary people are +fond of this beverage; and for four or six sous they get a bottle of +pleasant, refreshing, small beer. The draught is usually succeeded by a +doze--in the open air. What is common, excites no surprise; and the stream +of population rushes on without stopping one instant to notice these +somniferous indulgences. Or, if they are not disposed to sleep, they sit +and look about them: abstractedly gazing upon the multitude around, or at +the heavens above. Pure, idle, unproductive listlessness is the necessary +cause of such enjoyment. + +Evening approaches: when the Boulevards put on their gayest and most +fascinating livery. Then commences the bustle of the _Ice Mart_: in other +words, then commences the general demand for ices: while the rival and +neighbouring _caffés_ of TORTONI and RICHE have their porches of entrance +choked by the incessant ingress and egress of customers. The full moon +shines beautifully above the foliage of the trees; and an equal number of +customers, occupying chairs, sit without, and call for ices to be brought +to them. Meanwhile, between these loungers, and the entrances to the +caffés, move on, closely wedged, and yet scarcely in perceptible motion, +the mass of human beings who come only to exercise their eyes, by turning +them to the right or to the left: while, on the outside, upon the chaussée, +are drawn up the carriages of visitors (chiefly English ladies) who prefer +taking their ice within their closed morocco quarters. The varieties of ice +are endless, but that of the _Vanille_ is justly a general favourite: not +but that you may have coffee, chocolate, punch, peach, almond, and in short +every species of gratification of this kind; while the glasses are filled +to a great height, in a pyramidal shape, and some of them with layers of +strawberry, gooseberry, and other coloured ice--looking like pieces of a +Harlequin's jacket--are seen moving to and fro, to be silently and +certainly devoured by those who bespeak them. Add to this, every one has +his tumbler and small water-bottle by the side of him: in the centre of the +bottle is a large piece of ice, and with a tumbler of water, poured out +from it, the visitor usually concludes his repast. The most luxurious of +these ices scarcely exceeds a shilling of our money; and the quantity is at +least half as much again as you get at a certain well-known confectioner's +in Piccadilly. + +It is getting towards MIDNIGHT; but the bustle and activity of the +Boulevards have not yet much abated. Groups of musicians, ballad-singers, +tumblers, actors, conjurors, slight-of-hand professors, and raree-shew men, +have each their distinct audiences. You advance. A little girl with a +raised turban (as usual, tastefully put on) seems to have no mercy either +upon her own voice or upon the hurdy-gurdy on which she plays: her father +shews his skill upon a violin, and the mother is equally active with the +organ; after "a flourish"--not of "trumpets"--but of these instruments--the +tumblers commence their operations. But a great crowd is collected to the +right. What may this mean? All are silent; a ring is made, of which the +boundaries are marked by small lighted candles stuck in pieces of clay. +Within this circle stands a man--apparently strangled: both arms are +extended, and his eyes are stretched to their utmost limits. You look more +closely--and the hilt of a dagger is seen in his mouth, of which the blade +is introduced into his stomach! He is almost breathless, and ready to +faint--but he approaches, with the crown of a hat in one hand, into which +he expects you should drop a sous. Having made his collection, he draws +forth the dagger from its carnal sheath, and, making his bow, seems to +anticipate the plaudits which invariably follow.[3] Or, he changes his plan +of operations on the following evening. Instead of the dagger put down his +throat, he introduces a piece of wire up one nostril, to descend by the +other--and, thus self-tortured, demands the remuneration and the applause +of his audience. In short, from one end of the Boulevards to the other, for +nearly two English miles, there is nought but animation, good humour, and, +it is right to add, good order;--while, having strolled as far as the +Boulevards _de Bondy_, and watched the moon-beams sparkling in the waters +which play there within the beautiful fountain so called,--I retread my +steps, and seek the quiet quarters in which this epistle is penned. + +The next out-of-door sources of gratification, of importance, are the +_Gardens of the Thuileries_, the _Champs Elysées_, and the promenade within +the _Palais Royal_; in which latter plays a small, but, in my humble +opinion, the most beautifully constructed fountain which Paris can boast +of. Of this, presently. The former of these spots is rather pretty than +picturesque: rather limited than extensive: a raised terrace to the left, +on looking from the front of the Thuileries, is the only commanding +situation--from which you observe the Seine, running with its green tint, +and rapid current, to the left--while on the right you leisurely examine +the rows of orange trees and statuary which give an imposing air of +grandeur to the scene. At this season of the year, the fragrance of the +blossoms of the orange trees is most delicious. The statues are of a +colossal, and rather superior kind ... for garden decoration. There are +pleasing vistas and wide gravel walks, and a fine evening usually fills +them with crowds of Parisians. The palace is long, but rather too low and +narrow; yet there is an air of elegance about it, which, with the +immediately surrounding scenery, cannot fail to strike you very agreeably. +The white flag of St. Louis floats upon the top of the central dome. The +_Champs Elysées_ consist of extensive wooded walks; and a magnificent road +divides them, which serves as the great attractive mall for carriages-- +especially on Sundays--while, upon the grass, between the trees, on that +day, appear knots of male and female citizens enjoying the waltz or +quadrille. It is doubtless a most singular, and animated scene: the utmost +order and good humour prevailing. The _Place Louis Quinze_, running at +right angles with the Thuileries, and which is intersected in your route to +the _Rue de la Paix_, is certainly a most magnificent front elevation; +containing large and splendid houses, of elaborate exterior ornament. When +completed, to the right, it will present an almost matchless front of +domestic architecture, built upon the Grecian model. It was in this place, +facing his own regal residence of the Thuileries, that the unfortunate +Louis--surrounded by a ferocious and bloodthirsty mob--was butchered by the +guillotine. + +Come back with me now into the very heart of Paris, and let us stroll +within the area of the _Palais Royal_. You may remember that I spoke of a +fountain, which played within the centre of this popular resort. The +different branches, or _jets d'eau_, spring from a low, central point; and +crossing each other in a variety of angles, and in the most pleasing manner +of intersection, produce, altogether, the appearance of the blossom of a +large flower: so silvery and transparent is the water, and so gracefully +are its glassy petals disposed. Meanwhile, the rays of the sun, streaming +down from above, produce a sort of stationary rainbow: and, in the heat of +the day, as you sit upon the chairs, or saunter beneath the trees, the +effect is both grateful and refreshing. The little flower garden, in the +centre of which this fountain seems to be for ever playing, is a perfect +model of neatness and tasteful disposition: not a weed dare intrude: and +the earth seems always fresh and moist from the spray of the fountain-- +while roses, jonquils, and hyacinths scatter their delicious fragrance +around. For one minute only let us visit the _Caffé des Mille Colonnes_: so +called (as you well know) from the number of upright mirrors and glasses +which reflect the small columns by which the ceiling is supported. +Brilliant and singular as is this effect, it is almost eclipsed by the +appearance of the Mistress of the House; who, decorated with rich and rare +gems, and seated upon a sort of elevated throne--uniting great comeliness +and (as some think) beauty of person--receives both the homage and (what is +doubtless preferable to her) the _francs_ of numerous customers and +admirers. The "wealth of either Ind" sparkles upon her hand, or glitters +upon her attire: and if the sun of her beauty be somewhat verging towards +its declension, it sets with a glow which reminds her old acquaintance of +the splendour of its noon-day power. It is yet a sharply contested point +whether the ice of this house be preferable to that of Tortoni: a point, +too intricate and momentous for my solution. "Non nostrum est ... tantas +componere lites." + +Of the _Jardin des Plantes_, which I have once visited, but am not likely +to revisit--owing to the extreme heat of the weather, and the distance of +the spot from this place--scarcely too much can be said in commendation: +whether we consider it as a _dépôt_ for live or dead animals, or as a +school of study and instruction for the cultivators of natural history. The +wild animals are kept, in their respective cages, out of doors, which is +equally salutary for themselves and agreeable to their visitors. I was much +struck by the perpetual motion of a huge, restless, black bear, who has +left the marks of his footsteps by a concavity in the floor:--as well as by +the panting, and apparently painful, inaction of an equally huge white or +gray bear--who, nurtured upon beds of Greenland ice, seemed to be dying +beneath the oppressive heat of a Parisian atmosphere. The same misery +appeared to beset the bears who are confined, in an open space, below. They +searched every where for shade; while a scorching sun was darting its +vertical rays upon their heads. In the Museum of dead, or stuffed animals, +you have every thing that is minute or magnificent in nature, from the +creeping lizard to the towering giraffe, arranged systematically, and in a +manner the most obvious and intelligible: while Cuvier's collection of +fossil bones equally surprises and instructs you. It is worth all the +_catacombs_ of all the capitals in the world. If we turn to the softer and +more beauteous parts of creation, we are dazzled and bewildered by the +radiance and variety of the tribes of vegetables--whether as fruits or +flowers; and, upon the whole, this is an establishment which, in no age or +country, hath been surpassed. + +It is not necessary to trouble you with much more of this strain. The +out-of-door enjoyments in Paris are so well known, and have been so +frequently described--and my objects of research being altogether of a very +different complexion--you will not, I conclude, scold me if I cease to +expatiate upon this topic, but direct your attention to others. Not however +but that I think you may wish to know my sentiments about the principal +ARCHITECTURAL BUILDINGS of Paris--as you are yourself not only a lover, but +a judge, of these matters--and therefore the better qualified to criticise +and correct the following remarks--which flow "au bout de la plume"--as +Madame de Sévigné says. In the first place, then, let us stop a few minutes +before the THUILERIES. It hath a beautiful front: beautiful from its +lightness and airiness of effect. The small central dome is the only raised +part in the long horizontal line of this extended building: not but what +the extremities are raised in the old fashioned sloping manner: but if +there had been a similar dome at each end, and that in the centre had been +just double its present height, the effect, in my humble opinion, would +have harmonised better with the extreme length of the building. It is very +narrow; so much so, that the same room contains windows from which you may +look on either side of the palace: upon the gardens to the west, or within +the square to the east. + +Adjoining to the Thuileries is the LOUVRE: that is to say, a long range of +building to the south, parallel with the Seine, connects these magnificent +residences: and it is precisely along this extensive range that the +celebrated _Gallery of the Louvre_ runs. The principal exterior front, or +southern extremity of the Louvre, faces the Seine; and to my eye it is +nearly faultless as a piece of architecture constructed upon Grecian and +Roman models. But the interior is yet more splendid. I speak more +particularly of the south and western fronts: that facing the north being +more ancient, and containing female figure ornaments which are palpably of +a disproportionate length. The Louvre quadrangle (if I may borrow our old +college phrase) is assuredly the most splendid piece of ornamental +architecture which Paris contains. The interior of the edifice itself is as +yet in an unfinished condition;[4] but you must not conclude the +examination of this glorious pile of building, without going round to visit +the _eastern_ exterior front--looking towards Notre-Dame. Of all sides of +the square, within or without, this colonnade front is doubtless the most +perfect of its kind. It is less rich and crowded with ornament than any +side of the interior--but it assumes one of the most elegant, airy, and +perfectly proportionate aspects, of any which I am just now able to +recollect. Perhaps the basement story, upon which this double columned +colonnade of the Corinthian Order runs, is somewhat too plain--a sort of +affectation of the rustic. The alto-relievo figures in the centre of the +tympanum have a decisive and appropriate effect. The advantage both of the +Thuileries and Louvre is, that they are well seen from the principal +thoroughfares of Paris: that is to say, along the quays, and from the chief +streets running from the more ancient parts on the south side of the Seine. +The evil attending our own principal public edifices is, that they are +generally constructed where they _cannot_ be seen to advantage. Supposing +one of the principal entrances or malls of London, both for carriages and +foot, to be on the _south_ side of the Thames, what could be more +magnificent than the front of _Somerset House_, rising upon its hundred +columns perpendicularly from the sides of a river... three times as broad +as the Seine, with the majestic arches of _Waterloo Bridge!_--before which, +however, the stupendous elevation of _St. Paul's_ and its correspondent +bridge of _Black Friars_, could not fail to excite the wonder, and extort +the praise, of the most anti-anglican stranger. And to crown the whole, how +would the venerable nave and the towers of _Westminster Abbey_--with its +peculiar bridge of Westminster ... give a finish to such a succession of +architectural objects of metropolitan grandeur! Although in the very heart, +of Parisian wonder, I cannot help, you see, carrying my imagination towards +our own capital; and suggesting that, if, instead of furnaces, forges, and +flickering flames--and correspondent clouds of dense smoke--which give to +the southern side of the Thames the appearance of its being the abode of +legions of blacksmiths, and glass and shot makers--we introduced a little +of the good taste and good sense of our neighbours--and if ... But all this +is mighty easily said--though not quite so easily put in practice. The +truth however is, my dear friend, that we should _approximate_ a little +towards each other. Let the Parisians attend somewhat more to our domestic +comforts and commercial advantages--and let the Londoners sacrifice +somewhat of their love of warehouses and manufactories--and then you will +have hit the happy medium, which, in the metropolis of a great empire, +would unite all the conveniences, with all the magnificence, of situation. + +Of other buildings, devoted to civil purposes, the CHAMBER OF DEPUTIES, the +HÔTEL DES INVALIDES, with its gilded dome (a little too profusely adorned,) +the INSTITUTE, and more particularly the MINT, are the chief ornaments on +the south side of the Seine. In these I am not disposed to pick the least +hole, by fastidious or hypercritical observations. Only I wish that they +would contrive to let the lions, in front of the façade of the Institute, +(sometimes called the _Collège Mazarin_ or _des Quatre Nations_--upon the +whole, a magnificent pile) discharge a good large mouthful of water-- +instead of the drivelling stream which is for ever trickling from their +closed jaws. Nothing can be more ridiculous than the appearance of these +meagre and unappropriate objects: the more to be condemned, because the +French in general assume great credit for the management of their +fountains. Of the four great buildings just noticed, that of the Mint, or +rather its façade, pleases me most. It is a beautiful elevation, in pure +good taste; but the stone is unfortunately of a coarse grain and of a dingy +colour. Of the BRIDGES thrown across the Seine, connecting all the fine +objects on either side, it must be allowed that they are generally in good +taste: light, yet firm; but those, in iron, of Louis XVI. and _des Arts_, +are perhaps to be preferred. The _Pont Neuf_, where the ancient part of +Paris begins, is a large, long, clumsy piece of stone work: communicating +with the island upon which _Notre Dame_ is built. But if you look eastward, +towards old Paris, from the top of this bridge--or if you look in the same +direction, a little towards the western side, or upon the quays,--you +contemplate, in my humble opinion, one of the grandest views of street +scenery that can be imagined! The houses are very lofty--occasionally of +six or even eight stories--the material with which they are built is a fine +cream-coloured stone: the two branches of the river, and the back ground +afforded by _Notre Dame_, and a few other subordinate public buildings, +altogether produce an effect--especially as you turn your back upon the +sun, sinking low behind the _Barrière de Neuilly_--which would equally warm +the hearts and exercise the pencils of the TURNERS and CALCOTS of our own +shores. Indeed, I learn that the former distinguished artist has actually +made a drawing of this picture. But let me add, that my own unqualified +admiration had preceded the knowledge of this latter fact. Among other +buildings, I must put in a word of praise in behalf of the +HALLE-AUX-BLÉ'S--built after the model of the Pantheon at Rome. It is one +hundred and twenty French feet in diameter; has twenty-five covered +archways, or arcades, of ten feet in width; of which six are open, as +passages of ingress and egress--corresponding with the like number of +opposite streets. The present cupola (preceded by one almost as large as +that of the Pantheon at Rome) is built of iron and brass--of a curious, +light, and yet sufficiently substantial construction--and is unassailable +by fire. I never passed through this building without seeing it well +stocked with provender; while its area was filled with farmers, who, like +our own, assemble to make the best bargain. Yet let me observe that, owing +to the height of the neighbouring houses, this building loses almost the +whole of its appropriate effect. + +Nor should the EXCHANGE, in the _Rue des Filles St. Thomas_, be dismissed +without slight notice and commendation. It is equally simple, magnificent, +and striking: composed of a single row, or peristyle, of Corinthian +pillars, flanking a square of no mean dimensions, and presenting fourteen +pillars in its principal front. At this present moment, it is not quite +finished; but when completed, it promises to be among the most splendid and +the most perfect specimens of public architecture in Paris.[5] Beautiful as +many may think _our_ Exchange, in my humble opinion it has no pretensions +to compete with that at Paris. The HÔTEL DE VILLE, near the _Place de +Grève_, is rather in the character of the more ancient buildings in France: +it is exceedingly picturesque, and presents a noble façade. Being situated +amidst the older streets of Paris, nothing can harmonise better with the +surrounding objects. Compared with the metropolis, on its present extended +scale, it is hardly of sufficient importance for the consequence usually +attached to this kind of building; but you must remember that the greater +part of it was built in the sixteenth century, when the capital had +scarcely attained half its present size. The _Place de Grève_ during the +Revolution, was the spot in which the guillotine performed almost all its +butcheries. I walked over it with a hurrying step: fancying the earth to be +yet moist with the blood of so many immolated victims. Of other HÔTELS, I +shall mention only those of DE SENS and DE SOUBISE. The entrance into the +former yet exhibits a most picturesque specimen of the architecture of the +early part of the XVIth century. Its interior is devoted to every thing ... +which it ought _not_ to be. The Hôtel de Soubise is still a consequential +building. It was sufficiently notorious during the reigns of Charles V. and +VI.: and it owes its present form to the enterprising spirit of Cardinal +Rohan, who purchased it of the Guise family towards the end of the XVIIth +century. There is now, neither pomp nor splendour, nor revelry, within this +vast building. All its aristocratic magnificence is fled; but the antiquary +and the man of curious research console themselves on its possessing +treasures of a more substantial and covetable kind. You are to know that it +contains the _Archives of State_ and the _Royal Printing Office_. + +Paris has doubtless good reason to be proud of her public buildings; for +they are numerous, splendid, and commodious; and have the extraordinary +advantage over our own of not being tinted with soot and smoke. Indeed, +when one thinks of the sure invasion of every new stone or brick building +in London, by these enemies of external beauty, one is almost sick at heart +during the work of erection. The lower tier of windows and columns round +St. Paul's have been covered with the dirt and smoke of upwards of a +century: and the fillagree-like embellishments which distinguish the recent +restorations of Henry the VIIth's chapel, in Westminster Abbey, are already +beginning to lose their delicacy of appearance from a similar cause. But I +check myself. I am at Paris--and not in the metropolis of our own country. + +A word now for STREET SCENERY. Paris is perhaps here unrivalled: still I +speak under correction--having never seen Edinburgh. But, although +_portions_ of that northern capital, from its undulating or hilly site, +must necessarily present more picturesque appearances, yet, upon the whole, +from the superior size of Paris, there must be more numerous examples of +the kind of scenery of which I am speaking. The specimens are endless. I +select only a few--the more familiar to me. In turning to the left, from +the _Boulevard Montmartre_ or _Poissonière_, and going towards the _Rue St. +Marc_, or _Rue des Filles St. Thomas_ (as I have been in the habit of +doing, almost every morning, for the last ten days--in my way to the Royal +Library) you leave the _Rue Montmartre_ obliquely to the left. The houses +here seem to run up to the sky; and appear to have been constructed with +the same ease and facility as children build houses of cards. In every +direction about this spot, the houses, built of stone, as they generally +are, assume the most imposing and picturesque forms; and if a Canaletti +resided here, who would condescend to paint without water and wherries, +some really magnificent specimens of this species of composition might be +executed--equally to the credit of the artist and the place. + +If you want old fashioned houses, you must lounge in the long and parallel +streets of _St. Denis_ and _St. Martin_; but be sure that you choose dry +weather for the excursion. Two hours of heavy rain (as I once witnessed) +would cause a little rushing rivulet in the centre of these streets--and +you could only pass from one side to the other by means of a plank. The +absence of _trottoirs_--- or foot-pavement--is indeed here found to be a +most grievous defect. With the exception of the _Place Vendome_ and the +_Rue de la Paix_, where something like this sort of pavement prevails, +Paris presents you with hardly any thing of the kind; so that, methinks, I +hear you say, "what though your Paris be gayer and more grand, our London +is larger and more commodious." Doubtless this is a fair criticism. But +from the _Marché des Innocens_--a considerable space, where they sell +chiefly fruit and vegetables,[6]--(and which reminded me something of the +market-places of Rouen) towards the _Hôtel de Ville_ and the _Hôtel de +Soubise_, you will meet with many extremely curious and interesting +specimens of house and street scenery: while, as I before observed to you, +the view of the houses and streets in the _Isle St. Louis_, from the _Pont +des Ars_, the _Quai de Conti_, the _Pont Neuf_, or the _Quai des +Augustins_--or, still better, the _Pont Royal_--is absolutely one of the +grandest and completest specimens of metropolitan scenery which can be +contemplated. Once more: go as far as the _Pont Louis XVI._, cast your eye +down to the left; and observe how magnificently the Seine is flanked by the +Thuileries and the Louvre. Surely, it is but a sense of justice and a love +of truth which compel an impartial observer to say, that this is a view of +regal and public splendor--without a parallel in our own country! + +The _Rue de Richelieu_ is called the Bond-street of Paris. Parallel with +it, is the _Rue Vivienne_. They are both pleasant streets; especially the +former, which is much longer, and is rendered more striking by containing +some of the finest hotels in Paris. Hosiers, artificial flower makers, +clock-makers, and jewellers, are the principal tradesmen in the Rue de +Richelieu; but it has no similarity with Bond-street. The houses are of +stone, and generally very lofty--while the _Academie de Musique_[7] and the +_Bibliothèque du Roi_ are public buildings of such consequence and capacity +(especially the former) that it is absurd to name the street in which they +are situated with our own. The Rue Vivienne is comparatively short; but it +is pleasing, from the number of flowers, shrubs, and fruits, brought +thither from the public markets for sale. No doubt the _Place Vendome_ and +the _Rue de la Paix_ claim precedence, on the score of magnificence and +comfort, to either of these, or to any other streets; but to my taste there +is nothing (next to the Boulevards) which is so thoroughly gratifying as +the Rue de Richelieu. Is it because some few hundred thousand _printed +volumes_ are deposited therein? But of all these, the _Rue St. Honoré_, +with its faubourg so called, is doubtless the most distinguished and +consequential. It seems to run from west to east entirely through Paris; +and is considered, on the score of length, as more than a match for our +Oxford street. + +It may be so; but if the houses are loftier, the street is much narrower; +and where, again, is your foot-pavement--to protect you from the eternal +movements of fiacre, cabriolet, voiture and diligence? Besides, the +undulating line of our Oxford-street presents, to the tasteful observer, a +sight--perfectly unrivalled of its kind--especially if it be witnessed on a +clear night, when its thousand gas-lighted lamps below emulate the starry +lustre of the heavens above! To an inexperienced eye, this has the effect +of enchantment. Add to the houses of Oxford-street but two stories, and the +appearance of this street, in the day time, would be equally imposing: to +which add--what can never be added--the atmosphere of Paris! + +You will remark that, all this time, I have been wholly silent about the +_Palace de Luxembourg_, with its beautiful though flat gardens--of tulips, +jonquils, roses, wall flowers, lilac and orange trees--its broad and narrow +walks--its terraces and statues. The façade, in a line with the _Rue +Vaugirard_, has a grand effect--in every point of view. But the south +front, facing the gardens, is extremely beautiful and magnificent; while +across the gardens, and in front,--some short English mile--stands the +OBSERVATORY. Yet fail not to visit the interior square of the palace, for +it is well worth your notice and admiration. This building is now the +_Chambre des Pairs_. Its most celebrated ornament was the famous suite of +paintings, by Rubens, descriptive of the history of Henry IV. These now +adorn the gallery of the Louvre. It is a pity that this very tasteful +structure--which seems to be built of the choicest stone--should be so far +removed from what may be called the fashionable part of the city. It is in +consequence reluctantly visited by our countrymen; although a lover of +botany, or a florist, will not fail to procure two or three roots of the +different species of _tulips_, which, it is allowed, blow here in uncommon +luxuriance and splendor. + +The preceding is, I am aware, but a feeble and partial sketch--compared +with what a longer residence, and a temperature more favourable to exercise +(for we are half scorched up with heat, positive and reflected)--would +enable me to make. But "where are my favourite ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES?" +methinks I hear you exclaim. Truly you shall know as much as I know myself; +which is probably little enough. Of NOTRE-DAME, the west front, with its +marygold window, is striking both from its antiquity and richness. It is +almost black from age; but the alto-relievos, and especially those above +the doors, stand out in almost perfect condition. These ornaments are +rather fine of their kind. There is, throughout the whole of this west +front, a beautiful keeping; and the towers are, _here_, somewhat more +endurable--and therefore somewhat in harmony. Over the north-transept door, +on the outside, is a figure of the Virgin--once holding the infant Jesus in +her arms. Of the latter, only the feet remain. The drapery of this figure +is in perfectly good taste: a fine specimen of that excellent art which +prevailed towards the end of the XIIIth century. Above, is an alto-relievo +subject of the slaughter of the Innocents. The soldiers are in quilted +armour. I entered the cathedral from the western door, during service-time. +A sight of the different clergymen engaged in the office, filled me with +melancholy--and made me predict sad things of what was probably to come to +pass! These clergymen were old, feeble, wretchedly attired in their +respective vestments--and walked and sung in a tremulous and faltering +manner. The architectural effect in the interior is not very imposing: +although the solid circular pillars of the nave--the double aisles round +the choir--and the old basso-relievo representations of the life of Christ, +upon the exterior of the walls of the choir--cannot fail to afford an +antiquary very singular satisfaction. The choir appeared to be not unlike +that of St. Denis. + +The next Gothic church, in size and importance, is that of St. GERVAIS-- +situated to the left, in the Rue de Monceau. It has a very lofty nave, but +the interior is exceedingly flat and divested of ornament. The pillars have +scarcely any capitals. The choir is totally destitute of effect. Some of +the stained glass is rich and old, but a great deal has been stolen or +demolished during the Revolution. There is a good large modern picture, in +one of the side chapels to the right: and yet a more modern one, much +inferior, on the opposite side. In almost every side chapel, and in the +confessionals, the priests were busily engaged in the catechetical +examination of young people previous to the first Communion on the +following sabbath, which was the Fête-Dieu. The western front is wholly +Grecian--perhaps about two hundred years old. It is too lofty for its +width--but has a grand effect, and is justly much celebrated. Yet the +_situation_ of this fine old Gothic church is among the most wretched of +those in Paris. It is preserved from suffocation, only by holding it head +so high. Next in importance to St. Gervais, is the Gothic church of St. +EUSTACHE: a perfect specimen, throughout, of that adulterated style of +Gothic architecture (called its _restoration!_) which prevailed at the +commencement of the reign of Francis I. Faulty, and even meretricious, as +is the whole of the interior, the choir will not fail to strike you with +surprise and gratification. It is light, rich, and lofty. This church is +very large, but not so capacious as St. Gervais--while situation is, if +possible, still more objectionable. + +Let me not forget my two old favourite churches of ST. GERMAIN DES PRÈS, +_and St. Geneviève_; although of the latter I hardly know whether a hasty +glimpse, both of the exterior and interior, be not sufficient; the greater +part having been destroyed during the Revolution.[8] The immediate vicinity +of the former is sadly choaked by stalls and shops--and the west-front has +been cruelly covered by modern appendages. It is the church dearest to +antiquaries; and with reason.[9] I first visited it on a Sunday, when that +part of the Service was performed which required the fullest intonations of +the organ. The effect altogether was very striking. The singular pillars-- +of which the capitals are equally massive and grotesque, being sometimes +composed of human beings, and sometimes of birds and beasts, especially +towards the choir--the rising up and sitting down of the congregation, and +the yet more frequent movements of the priests--the swinging of the +censers--and the parade of the vergers, dressed in bag wigs, with broad red +sashes of silk, and silk stockings--but, above all, the most scientifically +touched, as well as the deepest and loudest toned, organ I ever heard-- +perfectly bewildered and amazed me! Upon the dispersion of the +congregation--which very shortly followed this religious excitation--I had +ample leisure to survey every part of this curious old structure; which +reminded me, although upon a much larger scale, of the peculiarities of St. +Georges de Bocherville, and Notre Dame at Guibray. Certainly, very much of +this church is of the twelfth century--and as I am not writing to our +friend P*** I will make bold to say that some portions of it yet "smack +strongly" of the eleventh. + +Nearer to my residence, and of a kindred style of architecture, is the +church of ST. GERMAIN AUX AUXERROIS. The west front or porch is yet sound +and good. Nothing particularly strikes you on the entrance, but there are +some interesting specimens of rich old stained glass in the windows of the +transepts. The choir is completely and cruelly modernised. In the side +chapels are several good modern paintings; and over an altar of twisted +columns, round which ivy leaves, apparently composed of ivory, are +creeping, is a picture of three figures in the flames of purgatory. This +side-chapel is consecrated to the offering up of orisons "_for the souls in +purgatory_." It is gloomy and repulsive. Death's heads and thigh bones are +painted, in white colours, upon the stained wall; and in the midst of all +these fearful devices, I saw three young ladies intensely occupied in their +devotions at the railing facing the altar. Here again, I observed priests +examining young people in their catechism; and others in confessionals, +receiving the confessions of the young of both sexes, previous to their +taking the first sacrament on the approaching _Fête-Dieu_. + +Contiguous to the Sorbonne church, there stands, raising its neatly +constructed dome aloft in air, the _Nouvelle Eglise Ste. Geneviève_, better +known by the name of the PANTHEON. The interior presents to my eye the most +beautiful and perfect specimen of Grecian architecture with which I am +acquainted. In the crypt are seen the tombs of French warriors; and upon +the pavement above, is a white marble statue of General Leclerc (brother in +law of Bonaparte,) who died in the expedition to St. Domingo. This, statue +is too full of conceit and affectation both in attitude and expression. The +interior of the building is about 370 English feet in length, by 270 in +width; but it is said that the foundation is too weak. From the gallery, +running along the bottom of the dome--the whole a miniature representation +of our St. Paul's--you have a sort of Panorama of Paris; but not, I think, +a very favourable one. The absence of sea-coal fume strikes you very +agreeably; but, for picturesque effect, I could not help thinking of the +superior beauty of the panorama of Rouen from the heights of Mont Ste. +Catharine. It appears to me that the small lantern on the top of the dome +wants a finishing apex.[10] + +Yonder majestic portico forms the west front of the church called St. +SULPICE ... It is at once airy and grand. There are two tiers of pillars, +of which this front is composed: the lower is Doric; the upper Ionic: and +each row, as I am told, is nearly forty French feet in height, exclusively +of their entablatures, each of ten feet. We have nothing like this, +certainly, as the front of a parish church, in London. When I except St. +Paul's, such exception is made in reference to the most majestic piece of +architectural composition, which, to my eye, the wit of man hath yet +devised. The architect of the magnificent front of St. Sulpice was +SERVANDONI; and a street hard by (in which Dom Brial, the father of French +history, resides) takes its name from this architect. There are two +towers--one at each end of this front,--about two hundred and twenty feet +in height from the pavement: harmonising well with the general style of +architecture, but of which, that to the south (to the best of my +recollection) is left in an unaccountably, if not shamefully, unfinished +state.[11] These towers are said to be about one _toise_ higher than those +of Notre Dame. The interior of this church is hardly less imposing than its +exterior. The vaulted roofs are exceedingly lofty; but for the length of +the nave, and more especially the choir, the transepts are +disproportionably short. Nor are there sufficiently prominent ornaments to +give relief to the massive appearance of the sides. These sides are +decorated by fluted pilasters of the Corinthian order; which, for so large +and lofty a building, have a tame effect. There is nothing like the huge, +single, insulated column, or the clustered slim pilasters, that separate +the nave from the side aisles of the Gothic churches of the early and +middle ages. + +The principal altar, between the nave and the choir, is admired for its +size, and grandeur of effect; but it is certainly ill-placed, and is +perhaps too ornamental, looking like a detached piece which does not +harmonise with the surrounding objects. Indeed, most of the altars in +French churches want simplicity and appropriate effect: and the whole of +the interior of the choir is (perhaps to my fastidious eye only,) destitute +of that quiet solemn character, which ought always to belong to places of +worship. Rich, minute, and elaborate as are many of the Gothic choirs of +our own country, they are yet in harmony; and equally free from a frivolous +or unappropriate effect. Behind the choir, is the Chapel of Our Lady: which +is certainly both splendid and imposing. Upon the ceiling is represented +the Assumption of the Virgin, and the walls are covered with a profusion of +gilt ornament, which, upon the whole, has a very striking effect. In a +recess, above the altar, is a sculptured representation of the Virgin and +Infant Christ, in white marble, of a remarkably high polish: nor are the +countenances of the mother and child divested of sweetness of expression. +They are represented upon a large globe, or with the world at their feet: +upon the top of which, slightly coiled, lies the "bruised" or dead serpent. +The light, in front of the spectator, from a concealed window, (a +contrivance to which the French seem partial) produces a sort of magical +effect. I should add, that this is the largest parochial church in Paris; +and that its organ has been pronounced to be matchless. + +The rival churches of St. Sulpice--rival ones, rather from similarity of +structure, than extent of dimensions--are the ORATOIRE and St. ROCH: both +situated in the Rue St. Honoré. St. Roch is doubtless a very fine +building--with a well-proportioned front--and a noble flight of steps; but +the interior is too plain and severe for my taste. The walls are decorated +by unfluted pilasters, with capitals scarcely conformable to any one order +of architecture. The choir however is lofty, and behind it, in Our Lady's +Chapel if I remember rightly, there is a striking piece of sculpture, of +the Crucifixion, sunk into a rock, which receives the light from an +invisible aperture as at St. Sulpice. To the right, or rather behind this +chapel, there is another--called the _Chapel of Calvary_,--in which you +observe a celebrated piece of sculpture, of rather colossal dimensions, of +the entombment of Christ. The dead Saviour is borne to the sepulchre by +Joseph of Arimathea, St. John, and the three Maries. The name of the +sculptor is _Deseine_. Certainly you cannot but be struck with the effect +of such representations--which accounts for these two chapels being a great +deal more attended, than the choir or the nave of the church. It is right +however to add, that the pictures here are preferable to those at St. +Sulpice: and the series of bas-reliefs, descriptive of the principal events +in the life of Christ, is among the very best specimens of art, of that +species, which Paris can boast of. + +Very different from either of these interiors is that of _St. Philippe du +Roule_; which presents you with a single insulated row of fluted Ionic +pillars, on each side of the nave; very airy, yet impressive and imposing. +It is much to my taste; and I wish such a plan were more generally adopted +in the interiors of Grecian-constructed churches. The choir, the altar ... +the whole is extremely simple and elegant. Nor must the roof be omitted to +be particularly mentioned. It is an arch, constructed of wood; upon a plan +originally invented by Philibert Delorme--so well known in the annals of +art in the sixteenth century. The whole is painted in stone colour, and may +deceive the most experienced eye. This beautiful church was built after the +designs of Chalgrin, about the year 1700; and is considered to be a purer +resemblance of the antique than any other in Paris. This church, well worth +your examination, is situated in a quarter rarely visited by our +countrymen--in the _Rue du Faubourg du Roule_, not far from the barriers. + +Not very remotely connected with the topic of CHURCHES, is that of the +SABBATHS ... as spent in Paris. They are nearly the same throughout all +France. As Bonaparte had no respect for religion itself, so he had less for +the forms connected with the upholding of it. Parades, battles, and +campaigns--were all that he cared about: and the Parisians, if they +supplied him with men and money--the _materiel_ for the execution of these +objects--were left to pray, preach, dance, or work, just as they pleased on +the Sabbath day. The present King,[12] as you well know, attempted the +introduction of something like an _English Sabbath_: but it would not do. +When the French read and understand GRAHAME[13] as well as they do THOMSON, +they will peradventure lend a ready and helping hand towards the completion +of this laudable plan. At present, there is much which hurts the eye and +ear of a well-educated and well-principled Englishman. There is a partial +shutting up of the shops before twelve; but after mid-day the shop-windows +are uniformly closed throughout Paris. Meanwhile the cart, the cabriolet, +the crier of herbs and of other marketable produce--the sound of the whip +or of the carpenter's saw and hammer--the shelling of peas in the open air, +and the plentiful strewing of the pod hard by--together with sundry, other +offensive and littering accompaniments--all strike you as disagreeable +deviations from what you have been accustomed to witness at home. Add to +this, the half-dirty attire--the unshaven beard of the men, and the unkempt +locks of the women--produce further revolting sensations. It is not till +past mid-day that the noise of labour ceases, and that the toilette is put +into a complete state for the captivation of the beholder. By four or five +o'clock the streets become half thinned. On a Sunday, every body rushes +into the country. The tradesman has his little villa, and the gentleman and +man of fortune his more capacious rural domain; and those, who aspire +neither to the one or the other, resort to the _Bois de Boulogne_ and the +_Champs Elysées_, or to the gardens of _Beaujon_, and _Tivoli_--or to the +yet more attractive magnificence of the palace and fountains of +_Versailles_--where, in one or the other of these places, they carouse, or +disport themselves--in promenades, or dancing groups--till + + ... Majores.. cadunt de montibus umbræ. + +This, generally and fairly speaking, is a summer Sabbath in the metropolis +of France. + +Unconscionable as you may have deemed the length of this epistle, I must +nevertheless extend it by the mention of what I conceive to be a very +essential feature both of beauty and utility in the street scenery of +Paris. It is of the FOUNTAINS that I am now about to speak; and of some of +which a slight mention has been already made. I yet adhere to the +preference given to that in the _Palais Royal_; considered with reference +to the management of the water. It is indeed a purely aqueous exhibition, +in which architecture and sculpture have nothing to do. Not so are the more +imposing fountains of the MARCHÉ DES INNOCENS, DE GRENELLE, and the +BOULEVARD BONDY. For the first of these,[14] the celebrated _Lescot_, abbé +de Clagny, was the designer of the general form; and the more celebrated +Jean Goujon the sculptor of the figures in bas-relief. It was re-touched +and perfected in 1551, and originally stood in the angle of the two +streets, of _aux Fers_ and _St. Denis_, presenting only two façades to the +beholder. It was restored and beautified in 1708; and in 1788 it changed +both its form and its position by being transported to the present spot-- +the _Marché des Innocens_--the market for vegetables. Two other similar +sides were then added, making it a square: but the original performances of +Goujon, which are considered almost as his master-piece, attract infinitely +more admiration than the more recent ones of Pajou. Goujon's figures are +doubtless very delicately and successfully executed. The water bubbles up +in the centre of the square, beneath the arch, in small sheets, or masses; +and its first and second subsequent falls, also in sheets, have a very +beautiful effect. They are like pieces of thin, transparent ice, tumbling +upon each other; but the _lead_, of which the lower half of the fountain is +composed--as the reservoir of the water--might have been advantageously +exchanged for _marble_. The lion at each corner of the pedestal, squirting +water into a sarcophagus-shaped reservoir, has a very absurd appearance. +Upon the whole, this fountain is well deserving of particular attention. +The inscription upon it is FONTIVM NYMPHIS; but perhaps, critically +speaking, it is now in too exposed a situation for the character of it's +ornaments. A retired, rural, umbrageous recess, beneath larch and pine-- +whose boughs + + Wave high and murmur in the hollow wind-- + +seems to be the kind of position fitted for the reception of a fountain of +this character. + +The FONTAINE DE GRENELLE is almost entirely architectural; and gives an +idea of a public office, rather than of a conduit. You look above--to the +right and the left--but no water appears. At last, almost by accident, you +look down, quite at its base, and observe two insignificant streams +trickling from the head of an animal. The central figure in front is a +representation of the city of Paris: the recumbent figures, on each side, +represent, the one the Seine, the other the Marne. Above, there are four +figures which represent the four Seasons. This fountain, the work of +Bouchardon, was erected in 1739 upon the site of what formed a part of an +old convent. A more simple, and a more striking fountain, to my taste, is +that of the ECOLE DE CHIRURGIE; in which a comparatively large column of +water rushes down precipitously between two Doric pillars--which form the +central ones of four--in an elegant façade. + +Yet more simple, more graceful, and more capacious, is the fountain of the +BOULEVARD BONDY--which I first saw sparkling beneath the lustre of a full +moon. This is, in every sense of the word, a fountain. A constant but +gentle undulation of water, from three aqueous terraces, surmounted by +three basins, gradually diminishing in size, strike you with peculiar +gratification--view it from whatever quarter you will: but seen in the +neighbourhood of _trees_, the effect, in weather like this, is absolutely +heart-refreshing. The only objectionable part of this elegant structure, on +the score of art, are the lions, and their positions. In the first place, +it is difficult to comprehend why the mouth of a _lion_ is introduced as a +channel for the transmission of water; and, in the second place, these +lions should have occupied the basement portion of the structure. This +beautiful fountain, of which the water is supplied by the _Canal d'Ourcq_, +was finished only about seven or eight years ago. Nor let the FOUNTAIN OF +TRIUMPH or VICTORY, in the _Place du Châtelet_, be forgotten. It is a +column, surmounted by a gilt statue of Victory, with four figures towards +its pedestal. The four jets-d'eau, from its base,--which are sufficiently +insignificant--empty themselves into a circular basin; but the shaft of the +column, to my eye, is not free from affectation. The names of some of +Bonaparte's principal victories are inscribed upon that part of the column +which faces the Pont au Change. There is a classical air of elegance about +this fountain, which is fifty feet in height. + +But where is the ELEPHANT Fountain?--methinks I hear you exclaim. It is yet +little more than in embryo: that is to say, the plaster-cast of it only is +visible--with the model, on a smaller scale, completed in all its parts, by +the side of it. It is really a stupendous affair.[15] On entering the +temporary shed erected for its construction, on the site of the Bastille, I +was almost breathless with astonishment for a moment. Imagine an enormous +figure of the unwieldy elephant, _full fifty feet high!_ You see it, in the +front, foreshortened--as you enter; and as the head is the bulkiest portion +of the animal, you may imagine something of the probable resulting effect. +Certainly it is most imposing. The visitor, who wishes to make himself +acquainted with the older, and more original, national character of the +French--whether as respects manners, dresses, domestic occupations, and +public places of resort--will take up his residence in the _Rue du Bac_, or +at the _Hotel des Bourbons_; within twenty minutes walk of the more curious +objects which are to be found in the Quartiers Saint André des Arcs, du +Luxembourg, and Saint Germain des Près. Ere he commence his morning +perambulations, he will look well at his map, and to what is described, in +the route which he is to take, in the works of Landon and of Legrand, or of +other equally accurate topographers. Two things he ought invariably to bear +in mind: the first, not to undertake too much, for the sake of saying how +_many_ things he has seen:--and the second, to make himself thoroughly +master of what he _does_ see. All this is very easily accomplished: and a +fare of thirty sous will take you, at starting, to almost any part of +Paris, however remote: from whence you may shape your course homewards at +leisure, and with little fatigue. Such a visitor will, however, sigh, ere +he set out on his journey, on being told that the old Gothic church of _St. +André-des-Arcs_--the Abbey of _St. Victor_--the churches of the +_Bernardins_, and of _St. Etienne des Près_, the _Cloisters_ of _the +Cordeliers_, and the _Convent of the Celestins_ ... exist no longer ... or, +that their remains are mere shadows of shades! But in the three quarters of +Paris, above mentioned, he will gather much curious information--in spite +of the havoc and waste which the Revolution has made; and on his return to +his own country he will reflect, with pride and satisfaction, on the result +of his enterprise and perseverance. + +To my whimsically formed taste, OLD PARIS has in it very much to delight, +and afford valuable information. Not that I would decry the absolute +splendor, gaiety, comfort, and interminable variety, which prevail in its +more modern and fashionable quarters. And certainly one may fairly say, +that, on either side the Seine, Paris is a city in which an Englishman,-- +who is resolved to be in good humour with all about him, and to shew that +civility to others which he is sure to receive from the better educated +classes of society here--cannot fail to find himself pleased, perfectly at +ease, and well contented with his fare. Compared with the older part of +London, the more ancient division of Paris is infinitely more interesting, +and of a finer architectural construction. The conical roofs every now and +then remind you of the times of Francis I.; and the clustered arabesques, +upon pilasters, or running between the bolder projections of the façades, +confirm you in the chronology of the buildings. But time, caprice, fashion, +or poverty, will, in less than half a century, materially change both the +substance and surfaces of things. It is here, as at Rouen--you bewail the +work of destruction which has oftentimes converted cloisters into +workshops, and consecrated edifices into warehouses of every description. +Human nature and the fate of human works are every where the same. Let two +more centuries revolve, and the THUILERIES and the LOUVRE may possibly be +as the BASTILLE and the TEMPLE. + +Such, to my feelings, is Paris--considered only with reference to its +_local_: for I have really done little more than perambulate its streets, +and survey its house-tops--with the important exceptions to be detailed in +the succeeding letters from hence. Of the treasures contained _beneath_ +some of those "housetops"--more especially of such as are found in the +shape of a BOOK--whether as a MS. or a Printed Volume--prepare to receive +some particulars in my next. + + +[1] [Several Notes in this volume having reference to MONS. CRAPELET, a + Printer of very considerable eminence at Paris, it may be proper to + inform the Reader that that portion of this Tour, which may be said to + have a more exclusive reference to France, usually speaking--including + the notice of Strasbourg--was almost entirely translated by Mons. + Crapelet himself. An exception however must be made to those parts + which relate to the _King's Private Library_ at Paris, and to + _Strasbourg_: these having been executed by different pens, evidently + in the hands of individuals of less wrongheadedness and acrimony of + feeling than the Parisian Printer. Mons. Crapelet has prefixed a + Preface to his labours, in which he tells the world, that, using my + more favourite metaphorical style of expression, "a CRUSADE has risen + up against the INFIDEL DIBDIN." + + Metaphorical as may be this style, it is yet somewhat alarming: for, + most assuredly, when I entered and quitted the "beau pays" of France, + I had imagined myself to have been a courteous, a grateful, and, under + all points of view, an ORTHODOX Visitor. It seems however, from the + language of the French Typographer, that I acted under a gross + delusion; and that it was necessary to have recourse to his sharp-set + sickle to cut away all the tares which I had sown in the soil of his + country. Upon the motive and the merit of his labours, I have already + given my unbiassed opinion.[A] Here, it is only necessary to observe, + that I have not, consciously, falsified his opinions, or undervalued + his worth. Let the Reader judge between us. + + [A] Vide Preface. + +[2] [They have now entirely lost the recollection, as well as the sight, of + them.] + +[3] ["The Parisians would doubtless very willingly get rid of such a horrid + spectacle in the streets and places of the Metropolis: besides, it is + not unattended with danger to the Actors themselves."--CRAPELET.] + +[4] ["And will continue to be so, it is feared--to the regret of all + Frenchmen--for a long time. It is however the beginning of a new + reign. The building of some new Edifices will doubtless be undertaken. + But if the King were to order the _finishing_ of all the public + Buildings of Paris, the epoch of the reign of Charles X. would + assuredly be the most memorable for Arts, and the embellishment of the + Capital." CRAPELET. 1825.] + +[5] [It is now completed: but seven years elapsed, after the above + description, before the building was in all respects considered to be + finished.] + +[6] [A most admirable view of this Market Place, with its picturesque + fountain in the centre, was painted by the younger Mr. Chalon, and + exhibited at Somerset House. A well executed _print_ of such a + thoroughly characteristic performance might, one would imagine, sell + prosperously on either side of the channel.] + +[7] [This building, which may perhaps be better known as that of the + _Opera_, is now rased to the ground--in consequence of the + assassination of the Duke de Berri there, in February, 1820, on his + stepping into his carriage on quitting the Opera. But five years were + suffered to elapse before the work of demolition was quite completed. + And when will the monument to the Duke's memory be raised?--CRAPELET.] + +[8] [It is now entirely demolished, to make way for a large and commodious + Street which gives a complete view of the church of St. Stephen. + CRAPELET.] + +[9] The views of it, as it appeared in the XVIth century, represent it + nearly surrounded by a wall and a moat. It takes its name as having + been originally situated _in the fields_. + +[10] [Two years ago was placed, upon the top of this small lantern, a gilt + cross, thirty-eight feet high: 41 of English measurement: and the + church has been consecrated to the Catholic service. CRAPELET. Thus, + the criticism of an English traveller, in 1818, was not entirely void + of foundation.] + +[11] [Our public buildings, which have continued long in an unfinished + state, strike the eyes of foreigners more vividly than they do our + own: but it is impossible to face the front of St. Sulpice without + partaking of the sentiment of the author. CRAPELET.] + +[12] [Louis XVIII.] + +[13] [_read and understand_ GRAHAME.]--Mr. Grahame is both a very readable + and understandable author. He has reason to be proud of his poem + called the SABBATH: for it is one of the sweetest and one of the + purest of modern times. His _scene_ however is laid in the country, + and not in the metropolis. The very opening of this poem refreshes the + heart--and prepares us for the more edifying portions of it, connected + with the performance of the religious offices of our country. This + beautiful work will LIVE as long as sensibility, and taste, and a + virtuous feeling, shall possess the bosoms of a British Public. + +[14] See the note p. 20, ante. + +[15] It is now completed. + + + + +_LETTER II._ + +GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE BIBLIOTHÈQUE DU ROI. THE LIBRARIANS. + + +_Hôtel des Colonies, Rue de Richelieu_. + +The moment is at length arrived when you are to receive from me an account +of some of the principal treasures contained in the ROYAL LIBRARY of Paris. +I say "_some_":--because, in an epistolary communication, consistently with +my time, and general objects of research--it must be considered only as a +slight selection, compared with what a longer residence, and a more general +examination of the contents of such a collection, might furnish. Yet, +limited as my view may have been, the objects of that view are at once rich +and rare, and likely to afford all true sons of BIBLIOMANIA and VIRTU the +most lively gratification. This is a bold avowal: but I fear not to make +it, and: the sequel shall be the test of its modesty and truth. + +You observe, I have dated my letter from a different quarter. In fact, the +distance of my former residence from the Bibliothèque du Roi--coupled with +the oppressive heat of the weather--rendered my morning excursions thither +rather uncomfortable; and instead of going to work with elastic spirits, +and an untired frame, both Mr. Lewis and myself felt jaded and oppressed +upon our arrival. We are now, on the contrary, scarcely fifty yards from +the grand door of entrance into the library. But this is only tantalizing +you. To the LIBRARY, therefore, at once let us go. The exterior and +interior, as to architectural appearance, are rather of a sorry +description: heavy; comparatively low, without ornament, and of a dark and +dingy tint. Towards the street, it has the melancholy air of a workhouse. +But none of the apartments, in which the books are contained, look into +this street; so that, consequently, little inconvenience is experienced +from the incessant motion and rattling of carts and carriages--the Rue de +Richelieu being probably the most frequented in Paris. Yet, repulsive as +may be this exterior, it was observed to me--on my suggesting what a fine +situation the quadrangle of the Louvre would make for the reception of the +royal library--that, it might be questioned whether even _that_ quadrangle +were large enough to contain it;--and that the present building, however +heavy and ungracious of aspect, was better calculated for its present +purpose than probably any other in Paris. In the centre of the edifice--for +it is a square, or rather a parallelogram-shaped building--stands a bronze +naked figure of Diana; stiff and meagre both in design and execution. It is +of the size of life; but surely a statue of _Minerva_ would have been a +little more appropriate? On entering the principal door, in the street just +mentioned, you turn to the right, and mount a large stone staircase--after +attending to the request, printed in large characters, of "_Essuyez vos +Souliers_"--as fixed against the wall. This entrance goes directly to the +collection of PRINTED BOOKS. On reaching the first floor, you go straight +forward, within folding doors; and the first room, of considerable extent, +immediately receives you. The light is uniformly admitted by large windows, +to the right, looking into the quadrangle before mentioned. + +You pass through this room--where scarcely any body lingers--and enter the +second, where are placed the EDITIONES PRINCIPES, and other volumes printed +in the fifteenth century. To an _experienced_ eye, the first view of the +contents of this second room is absolutely magical; Such copies of such +rare, precious, magnificent, and long-sought after impressions!... It is +fairy-land throughout. There stands the _first Homer_, unshorn by the +binder; a little above, is the first _Roman edition of Eustathius's_ +Commentary upon that poet, in gorgeous red morocco, but printed UPON +VELLUM! A Budæus _Greek Lexicon_ (Francis I.'s own copy) also UPON VELLUM! +The _Virgils, Ovids, Plinies_ ... and, above all, the _Bibles_--But I check +myself; in order to conduct you regularly through the apartments, ere you +sit down with me before each volume which I may open. In this second-room +are two small tables, rarely occupied, but at one or the other of which I +was stationed (by the kind offices of M. Van Praet) for fourteen days--with +almost every thing that was exquisite and rare, in the old book-way, behind +and before me. Let us however gradually move onwards. You pass into the +third room. Here is the grand rendezvous of readers. Six circular or rather +oval tables, each capable of accommodating twelve students, and each +generally occupied by the full number, strike your eye in a very pleasing +manner, in the centre of this apparently interminable vista of printed +volumes. + +But I must call your particular attention to the _foreground_ of this +magical book-view. To the left of this third room, on entering, you observe +a well-dressed Gentleman (of somewhat shorter stature than the author of +this description) busied behind a table; taking down and putting up +volumes: inscribing names, and numbers, and titles, in a large folio +volume; giving orders on all sides; and putting several pairs of legs into +motion in consequence of those orders--while his own are perhaps the least +spared of any. This gentleman is no less a personage than the celebrated +Monsieur VAN PRAET; one of the chief librarians in the department of the +printed books. His aspect is mild and pleasant; while his smart attire +frequently forms a striking contrast to habiliments and personal +appearances of a very different, and less conciliating description, by +which he is surrounded.[16] M. Van Praet must be now approaching his +sixtieth year; but his age sits bravely upon him--for his step is rapid and +firm, and his physiognomical expression indicative of a much less +protracted period of existence.[17] He is a Fleming by birth; and, even in +shewing his first Eustathius, or first Pliny, UPON VELLUM, you may observe +the natural enthusiasm of a Frenchman tempered by the graver emotions of a +native of the Netherlands. + +This distinguished Bibliographer (of whom, somewhat more in a future +epistle) has now continued nearly forty years in his present situation; and +when infirmity, or other causes, shall compel him to quit it, France will +never replace him by one possessing more appropriate talents! He doats upon +the objects committed to his trust. He lives almost entirely among his dear +books ... either on the first floor or on the ground floor: for when the +hour of departure, two o'clock, arrives, M. Van Praet betakes him to the +quieter book realms below--where, surrounded by _Grolier, De Thou_, and +_Diane de Poictiers_, copies, he disports him till his dinner hour of four +or five--and 'as the evening shades prevail,' away hies he to his favourite +'_Théatre des Italiens_,' and the scientific treat of Italian music. This I +know, however--and this I will say--in regard to the amiable and excellent +gentleman under description--that, if I were King of France, Mons. Van +Praet should be desired to sit in a roomy, morocco-bottomed, mahogany arm +chair--not to stir therefrom--but to issue out his edicts, for the delivery +of books, to the several athletic myrmidons under his command. Of course +there must be occasional exceptions to this rigid, but upon the whole +salutary, "Ordonnance du Roy." Indeed I have reason to mention a most +flattering exception to it--in my own favour: for M. Van Praet would come +into the second room, (just mentioned) and with his own hands supply me +with half a score volumes at a time--of such as I wished to examine. But, +generally speaking, this worthy and obliging creature is too lavish of his +own personal exertions. He knows, to be sure, all the bye-passes, and +abrupt ascents and descents; and if he be out of sight--in a moment, +through some secret aperture, he returns as quickly through another equally +unseen passage. Upon an average, I set his bibliomaniacal peregrinations +down at the rate of a full French league per day. It is the absence of all +pretension and quackery--the quiet, unobtrusive manner in which he opens +his well-charged battery of information upon you--but, more than all, the +glorious honours which are due to him, for having assisted to rescue the +book treasures of the Abbey of St. Germain des Près from destruction, +during the horrors of the Revolution--that cannot fail to secure to him the +esteem of the living, and the gratitude of posterity. + +[Illustration: GOLD MEDAL OF LOUIS XII. +From the Cabinet des Medailles at Paris.] + +We must now leave this well occupied and richly furnished chamber, and pass +on to the fourth room--in the centre of which is a large raised bronze +ornament, representing Apollo and the Muses--surrounded by the more eminent +literary characters of France in the seventeenth century. It is raised to +the glory of the grand monarque Louis XIV. and the figure of Apollo is +intended for that of his Majesty. The whole is a palpable failure: a +glaring exhibition of bad French taste. Pegasus, the Muses, rocks, and +streams, are all scattered about in a very confused manner; without +connection, and of course without effect. Even the French allow it to be +"mesquin, et de mauvais goût." But let me be methodical. As you enter this +fourth room, you observe, opposite--before you turn to the right--a door, +having the inscription of CABINET DES MEDAILLES. This door however is open +only twice in the week; when the cabinet is freely and most conveniently +shewn. Of its contents--in part, precious beyond comparison--this is the +place to say only one little word or two: for really there would be no end +of detail were I to describe even its most remarkable treasures. Francis I. +and his son Henry II. were among its earliest patrons; when the cabinet was +deposited in the Louvre. The former enriched it with a series of valuable +gold medals, and among them with one of Louis XII., his predecessor; which +has not only the distinction of being beautifully executed, but of being +the largest, if not the first of its kind in France.[18] + +The specimens of Greek art, in coins, and other small productions, are +equally precious and select. Vases, shields, gems, and cameos--the greater +part of which are described in Caylus's well-known work--are perfectly +enchanting. But the famous AGAT of the STE. CHAPELLE--supposed to be the +largest in the world, and which has been engraved by Giradet in a manner +perfectly unrivalled--will not fail to rivet your attention, and claim your +most unqualified commendation. The sardonyx, called the VASE of PTOLEMY, is +another of the great objects of attraction in the room where we are now +tarrying--and beautiful, and curious, and precious, it unquestionably is. +Doubtless, in such a chamber as this, the classical archæologist will gaze +with no ordinary emotions, and meditate with no ordinary satisfaction. But +I think I hear the wish escape him--as he casts an attentive eye over the +whole--"why do they not imitate us in a publication relating to them? Why +do they not put forth something similar to what we have done for our +_Museum Marbles_? Or rather, speaking more correctly, why are not the +_Marlborough Gems_ considered as an object of rivalry, by the curators of +this exquisite cabinet? Paris is not wanting both in artists who design, +and who engrave, in this department, with at least equal skill to our +own."[19] + +Let us now return to the Books. In the fourth book-room there is an opening +in the centre, to the left, nearly facing the bronze ornament--through +which, as you enter, and look to the left, appear the upper halves of two +enormous GLOBES. The effect is at first, inconceivably puzzling and even +startling: but you advance, and looking down the huge aperture occasioned +by these gigantic globes, you observe their bases resting on the ground +floor: both the upper and ground floor having the wainscots entirely +covered by books. These globes are the performance of Vincent Coronelli, a +Venetian; and were presented to Louis XIV. by the Cardinal d'Etrées, who +had them made for his Majesty. You return back into the fourth room--pace +on to its extremity, and then, at right angles, view the fifth room--or, +comprising the upper and lower globe rooms, a seventh room; the whole +admirably well lighted up from large side windows. Observe further--the +whole corresponding suite of rooms, on the ground floor, is also nearly +filled with printed books, comprising the _unbound copies_--and one +chamber, occupied by the more exquisite specimens of the presses of the +_Alduses_, the _Giuntæ_, the _Stephens_, &c. UPON VELLUM, or on _large +paper_. Another chamber is exclusively devoted to large paper copies of +_all_ descriptions, from the presses of all countries; and in one or the +other of these chambers are deposited the volumes from the Library of +_Grolier_ and _De Thou_--names, dear to Book-Collectors; as an indifferent +copy has hardly ever yet been found which was once deposited on the shelves +of either. You should know that the public do not visit this lower suite of +rooms, it being open only to the particular friends of the several +Librarians. The measurement of these rooms, from the entrance to the +extremity of the fifth room, is upwards of 700 feet. + +Now, my good friend, if you ask me whether the interior of this library be +superior to that of our dear BODLEIAN, I answer, at once, and without fear +of contradiction--it is very much _inferior_. It represents an interminable +range of homely and commodious apartments; but the Bodleian library, from +beginning to end--from floor to ceiling--is grand, impressive, and entirely +of a bookish appearance. In that spacious and lofty receptacle--of which +the ceiling, in my humble opinion, is an unique and beautiful piece of +workmanship--all is solemn, and grave, and inviting to study: yet echoing, +as it were, to the footsteps of those who once meditated within its almost +hallowed precincts--the _Bodleys_, the _Seldens_, the _Digbys_, the _Lauds_ +and _Tanners_, of other times![20] But I am dreaming: forgetting that, at +this moment, you are impatient to enter the _MS. Department_ of the Royal +Library at Paris. Be it so, therefore. And yet the very approach to this +invaluable collection is difficult of discovery. Instead of a corresponding +lofty stone stair-case, you cross a corner of the square, and enter a +passage, with an iron gate at the extremity--leading to the apartments of +Messrs. Millin and Langlès. A narrow staircase, to the right, receives you: +and this stair-case would appear to lead rather to an old armoury, in a +corner-tower of some baronial castle, than to a suite of large modern +apartments, containing probably, upon the whole, the finest collection of +_Engravings_ and of _Manuscripts_, of all ages and characters, in Europe. +Nevertheless, as we cannot mount by any other means, we will e'en set +footing upon this stair-case, humble and obscure as it may be. You scarcely +gain the height of some twenty steps, when you observe the magical +inscription of CABINET DES ESTAMPES. Your spirits dance, and your eyes +sparkle, as you pull the little wire--and hear the clink of a small +corresponding bell. The door is opened by one of the attendants in livery-- +arrayed in blue and silver and red--very handsome, and rendered more +attractive by the respectful behaviour of those who wear that royal +costume. I forgot to say that the same kind of attendants are found in all +the apartments attached to this magnificent collection--and, when not +occupied in their particular vocation of carrying books to and fro, these +attendants are engaged in reading, or sitting quietly with crossed legs, +and peradventure dosing a little. But nothing can exceed their civility; +accompanied with a certain air of politeness, not altogether divested of a +kind of gentlemanly deportment. + +On entering the first of those rooms, where the prints are kept, you are +immediately struck with the narrow dimensions of the place--for the +succeeding room, though perhaps more than twice as large, is still +inadequate to the reception of its numerous visitors.[21] In this first +room you observe a few of the very choicest productions of the burin, from +the earliest periods of the art, to the more recent performances of +_Desnoyer_, displayed within glazed frames upon the wainscot. It really +makes the heart of a connoisseur leap with ecstacy to see such +_Finiguerras, Baldinis, Boticellis, Mantegnas, Pollaiuolos, Israel Van +Meckens, Albert Durers, Marc Antonios, Rembrandts, Hollar, Nanteuils, +Edelincks, &c._; while specimens of our own great master engravers, among +whom are _Woollet_ and _Sharp_, maintain a conspicuous situation, and add +to the gratification of the beholder. The idea is a good one; but to carry +it into complete effect, there should be a gallery, fifty feet long, of a +confined width, and lighted from above:[22] whereas the present room is +scarcely twenty feet square, with a disproportionably low ceiling. However, +you cannot fail to be highly gratified--and onwards you go--diagonally--and +find yourself in a comparatively long room--in the midst of which is a +table, reaching from nearly one end to the other, and entirely filled +(every day) with visitors, or rather students--busied each in their several +pursuits. Some are quietly turning over the succeeding leaves, on which the +prints are pasted: others are pausing upon each fine specimen, in silent +ecstacy--checking themselves every instant lest they should break forth +into rapturous exclamations!... "silence" being rigidly prescribed by the +Curators--and, I must say, as rigidly maintained. Others again are busied +in deep critical examination of some ancient ruin from the pages of +_Piranesi_ or of _Montfaucon_--now making notes, and now copying particular +parts. Meanwhile, from the top to the bottom of the sides of the, room, are +huge volumes of prints, bound in red morocco; which form indeed the +materials for the occupations just described.[23] + +But, hanging upon a pillar, at the hither end of this second room, you +observe a large old drawing of a head or portrait, in a glazed frame; which +strikes you in every respect as a great curiosity. M. Du Chesne, the +obliging and able director of this department of the collection, attended +me on my first visit. He saw me looking at this head with great eagerness. +"Enfin voilà quelque chose qui mérite bien vôtre attention"--observed he. +It was in fact the portrait of "their good but unfortunate KING JOHN"--as +my guide designated him. This Drawing is executed in a sort of thick body +colour, upon fine linen: the back-ground is gold: now almost entirely +tarnished--and there is a sort of frame, stamped, or pricked out, upon the +surface of the gold--as we see in the illuminations of books of that +period. It should also seem as if the first layer, upon which the gold is +placed, had been composed of the white of an egg--or of some such glutinous +substance. Upon the whole, it is an exceedingly curious and interesting +relic of antient graphic art. + +To examine minutely the treasures of such a collection of prints--whether +in regard to ancient or modern art--would demand the unremitted attention +of the better part of a month; and in consequence, a proportionate quantity +of time and paper in embodying the fruits of that attention.[24] There is +only one other curiosity, just now, to which I shall call your attention. +It is the old wood cut of ST. CHRISTOPHER--of which certain authors have +discoursed largely.[25] They suppose they have an impression of it here-- +whereas that of Lord Spencer has been hitherto considered as unique. His +Lordship's copy, as you well know, was obtained from the Buxheim monastery, +and was first made public in the interesting work of Heineken.[26] The copy +now under consideration is not pasted upon boards, as is Lord Spencer's-- +forming the interior linings in the cover or binding of an old MS.--but it +is a loose leaf, and is therefore subject to the most minute examination, +or to any conclusion respecting the date which may be drawn from the +_watermark_. Upon _such_ a foundation I will never attempt to build an +hypothesis, or to draw a conclusion; because the same water-mark of Bamberg +and of Mentz, of Venice and of Rome, may be found within books printed both +at the commencement and at the end of the fifteenth century. But for the +print--as it _is_. I have not only examined it carefully, but have +procured, from M. Coeuré, a fac-simile of the head only--the most essential +part--and both the examination and the fac-simile convince me... that the +St. Christopher in the Bibliothèque du Roi is NOT an impression from the +_same block_ which furnished the St. Christopher now in the library of St. +James's Place. + +The general character of the figure, in the Royal Library here, is thin and +feeble compared with that in Lord Spencer's collection; and I am quite +persuaded that M. Du Chesne,--who fights his ground inch by inch, and +reluctantly (to his honour, let me add) assents to any remarks which may +make his own cherished St. Christopher of a comparatively modern date-- +will, in the end, admit that the Parisian impression is a _copy_ of a later +date--and that, had an opportunity presented itself of comparing the two +impressions with each other,[27] it would never have been received into the +Library at the price at which it was obtained--I think, at about 620 +francs. However, although it be not THE St. Christopher, it is a graphic +representation of the Saint which may possibly be as old as the year 1460. + +But we have tarried quite long enough, for the present, within the cabinet +of Engravings. Let us return: ascend about a dozen more steps; and enter +the LIBRARY OF MANUSCRIPTS. As before, you are struck with the smallness of +the first room; which leads, however, to a second of much larger +dimensions--then to a third, of a boudoir character; afterwards to a fourth +and fifth, rather straitened--and sixthly, and lastly, to one of a noble +length and elevation of ceiling--worthy in all respects of the glorious +treasures which it contains. Let me, however, be more explicit. In the very +first room you have an earnest of all the bibliomaniacal felicity which +these MSS. hold out. Look to the left--upon entering--and view, perhaps +lost in a very ecstacy of admiration--the _Romances_ ... of all sizes and +character, which at first strike you! What _Launcelot du Lacs, Tristans, +Leonnois, Arturs, Ysaises_, and feats of the _Table Ronde_, stand closely +wedged within the brass-wired doors that incircle this and every other +apartment! _Bibles, Rituals, Moralities_, ... next claim your attention. +You go on--_History, Philosophy, Arts and Sciences_ ... but it is useless +to indulge in these rhapsodies. The fourth apartment, of which I spake, +exhibits specimens of what are seen more plentifully, but not of more +curious workmanship, in the larger room to which it leads. Here glitter, +behind glazed doors, old volumes of devotion bound in ivory, or gilt, or +brass, studded with cameos and precious stones; and covered with figures of +all characters and ages--some of the XIIth--and more of the immediately +following centuries. Some of these bindings (among which I include +_Diptychs_) may be as old as the eleventh--and they have been even carried +up to the tenth century. + +Let us however return quickly back again; and begin at the beginning. The +first room, as I before observed, has some of the most exquisitely +illuminated, as well as some of the most ancient MSS., in the whole +library. A phalanx of _Romances_ meets the eye; which rather provokes the +courage, than damps the ardor, of the bibliographical champion. Nor are the +illuminated _Bibles_ of less interest to the graphic antiquary. In my next +letter you shall see what use I have made of the unrestrained liberty +granted me, by the kind-hearted Curators, to open what doors, and examine +what volumes, I pleased. Meanwhile let me introduce you to the excellent +MONSIEUR GAIL, who is sitting at yonder desk--examining a beautiful Greek +MS. of Polybius, which once belonged to Henry II. and his favourite Diane +de Poictiers. M. Gail is the chief Librarian presiding over the Greek and +Latin MSS., and is himself Professor of the Greek language in the royal +college of France. Of this gentleman I shall speak more particularly anon. +At the present moment it may suffice only to observe that he is thoroughly +frank, amiable, and communicative, and dexterous in his particular +vocation: and that he is, what we should both call, a hearty, good fellow-- +a natural character. M. Gail is accompanied by the assistant librarians MM. +De. l'EPINE, and MÉON: gentlemen of equal ability in their particular +department, and at all times willing to aid and abet the researches of +those who come to examine and appreciate the treasures of which they are +the joint Curators. Indeed I cannot speak too highly of these gentlemen-- +nor can I too much admire the system and the silence which uniformly +prevail. + +Another principal librarian is M. LANGLÈS:[28] an author of equal +reputation with Monsieur Gail--but his strength lies in Oriental +literature; and he presides more especially over the Persian, Arabic, and +other Oriental MSS. To the naïveté of M. Gail, he adds the peculiar +vivacity and enthusiasm of his countrymen. To see him presiding in his +chair (for he and M. Gail take alternate turns) and occupied in reading, +you would think that a book worm could scarcely creep between the tip of +his nose and the surface of the _Codex Bombycinus_ over which he is poring. +He is among the most short-sighted of mortals--as to _ocular_ vision. But +he has a bravely furnished mind; and such a store of spirits and of good +humour--talking withal unintermittingly, but very pleasantly---that you +find it difficult to get away from him. He is no indifferent speaker of our +own language; and I must say, seems rather proud of such an acquirement. +Both he and M. Gail, and M. Van Praet, are men of rather small, stature-- +_triplicates_, as it were, of the same work[29]--but of which M. Gail is +the tallest copy. One of the two head librarians, just mentioned, sits at a +desk in the second room--and when any friends come to see, or to converse +with him--the discussion is immediately adjourned to the contiguous +boudoir-like apartment, where are deposited the rich old bindings of which +you have just had a hasty description. Here the voices are elevated, and +the flourishes of speech and of action freely indulged in. + +In the way to the further apartment, from the boudoir so frequently +mentioned, you pass a small room--in which there is a plaster bust of the +King--and among the books, bound, as they almost all are, in red morocco, +you observe two volumes of tremendously thick dimensions; the one entitled +_Alexander Aphrodiæsus, Hippocrates, &c._--the other _Plutarchi Vitæ +Parallelæ et Moralia, &c._ They contain nothing remarkable for ornament, or +what is more essential, for intrinsic worth. Nevertheless you pass on: and +the last--but the most magnificent--of _all_ the rooms, appropriated to the +reception of books, whether in ms. or in print, now occupies a very +considerable portion of your attention. It is replete with treasures of +every description: in ancient art, antiquities, and both sacred and profane +learning: in languages from all quarters, and almost of all ages of the +world. Here I opened, with indescribable delight the ponderous and famous +_Latin Bible of Charles the Bald_--and the religious manual of his brother +the _Emperor Lotharius_--composed chiefly of transcripts from the Gospels. +Here are ivory bindings, whether as diptychs, or attached to regular +volumes. Here are all sorts and sizes of the uncial or capital-letter MSS-- +in portions, or entire. Here, too, are very precious old illuminations, and +specimens--almost without number--admirably arranged, of every species of +BIBLIOGRAPHICAL VIRTÙ, which cannot fail to fix the attention, enlarge the +knowledge, and improve the judgment, of the curious in this department of +research. + +Such, my dear friend, is the necessarily rapid--and, I fear, consequently +imperfect--sketch which I send you of the general character of the +BIBLIOTHÈQUE DU ROI; both as respects its dead and its living treasures. It +remains to be seen how this sketch will be completed.--- and I hereby give +you notice, that my next letter will contain some account of a few of the +more ancient, curious, and splendid MANUSCRIPTS--to be followed by a second +letter, exclusively devoted to a similar account of the PRINTED BOOKS. If I +execute this task according to my present inclinations--and with the +disposition which I now feel, together with the opportunities which have +been afforded me--it will not, I trust, be said that I have been an idle or +unworthy visitor of this magnificent collection. + + +[16] [Mons. Crapelet takes fire at the above passage: simply because he + misunderstands it. In not one-word, or expression of it, is there any + thing which implies, directly or indirectly, that "it would be + difficult to find another public establishment where the officers are + more active, more obliging, more anxious to satisfy the Public than in + the above." I am talking only of _dress_--and commending the silk + stockings of Mons. Van Praet at the expense of those by whom he is + occasionally surrounded.] + +[17] So, even NOW: 1829. + +[18] In the year 1814, the late M. Millin published a dissertation upon + this medal, to which he prefixed an engraving of the figure of Louis. + There can indeed be but one opinion that the Engraving is unworthy of + the Original. + + [For an illustration of the _Medallic History of France_, I scarcely + recollect any one object of Art which would be more gratifying, as + well as apposite, than a faithful Engraving of such a Medal: and I + call upon my good friend M. DU CHESNE to set such a History on foot. + There is however another medal, of the same Monarch, of a smaller + size, but of equal merit of execution, which has been selected to + grace the pages of this second edition--in the OPPOSITE PLATE. The + inscription is as follows: LUDOVICO XII. REGNANTE CÆSARE ALTERO. + GAUDET OMNIS NATIO: from which it is inferred that the Medal was + struck in consequence of the victory of Ravenna, or of Louis's + triumphant campaigns in Italy. A short but spirited account is given + of these campaigns in Le Noir's _Musée des Monumens Français_, tome + ii. p. 145-7.] + +[19] ["And it is Mr. DIBDIN who makes this confession! Let us render + justice to his impartiality on this occasion. Such a confession ought + to cause some regret to those who go to seek engravings in London." + CRAPELET, vol. ii. p. 89. The reader shall make his own remark on the + force, if there be any, of this gratuitous piece of criticism of the + French Translator.] + +[20] [And, till within these few months, those of the REV. DR. NICOLL, + Regius Professor of the Hebrew Language! That amiable and modest and + surprisingly learned Oriental Scholar died in the flower of his age + (in his 36th year) to the deep regret of all his friends and + acquaintances, and, I had well nigh said, to the irreparable loss of + the University.] + +[21] ["This observation is just; and it is to be hoped that they will soon + carry into execution the Royal ordonance of October, 1816, which + appropriates the apartments of the Treasury, contiguous, to be united + to the establishment, as they become void. However, what took place in + 1825, respecting some buildings in the Rue Neuve des Petits Champs, + forbids us to suppose that this wished for addition will take place." + CRAPELET, p. 93.] + +[22] [M. Crapelet admits the propriety of such a suggested improvement; and + hopes that government will soon take it up for the accommodation of + the Visitors--who sometimes are obliged to wait for a _vacancy_, + before they can commence these researches.] + +[23] [Mons. Crapelet estimates the number of these splendid volumes (in + 1825,) at "more than six thousand!"] + +[24] [M. Crapelet might have considered this confession as a reason, or + apology, sufficient for not entering into all those details or + descriptions, which he seems surprised and vexed that I omitted to + travel into.] + +[25] _An enquiry into the History of Engraving upon Copper and in + Wood_, 1816, 4to. 2 vol. by W.Y. Ottley. Mr. Ottley, in vol. i. p. 90, + has given the whole of the original cut: while in the first volume p. + iii. of the _Bibliotheca Spenceriana_, only the figure and date are + given. + +[26] _Idée générale d'une Collection complette des Estampes. Leips._ + 1771. 8vo. + +[27] Since the above was written, the RIVAL ST. CRISTOPHER have been placed + _side by side_. When Lord Spencer was at Paris, last year, (1819,) on + his return from Italy--he wrote to me, requesting I would visit him + there, and bring St. Christopher with me. That Saint was therefore, in + turn, carried across the water--and on being confronted with his + name-sake, at the Royal Library ... it was quite evident, at the first + glance, as M. Du Chesne admitted--that they were impressions taken + from _different blocks_. The question therefore, was, after a good + deal of pertinacious argument on both sides--which of the two + impressions was the MORE ANCIENT? Undoubtedly it was that of Lord[B] + Spencer's. + + [B] [The reasons, upon which this conclusion was founded, are + stated at length in the preceding edition of this work: since + which, I very strongly incline to the supposition that the Paris + impression is a _proof_--of one of the _cheats_ of DE MURR.] + +[28] He died in 1824 and a notice of his Life and Labours appeared in the + _Annales Encyclopèdiques_. + +[29] "M. Dibdin may well make the _fourth_ copy--as to size." + CRAPELET, p. 115. + + + + +_LETTER III._ + +THE SAME SUBJECTS CONTINUED. + + +_Paris, June 14, 1818_. + +As I promised, at the conclusion of my last, you shall accompany me +immediately to the ROYAL LIBRARY; and taking down a few of the more ancient +MANUSCRIPTS relating to _Theology_--especially those, which, from age, art, +or intrinsic worth, demand a more particular examination--we will both sit +down together to the enjoyment of what the librarians have placed before +us. In other words, I shall proceed to fill up the outline (executed with a +hurrying pencil) which was submitted to you in my previous letter. First, +therefore, for + +BIBLES, LITURGIES, RITUALS, LEGENDS, MORAL TREATISES, &C. + +_Quatuor Evangelia. "Codex Membranaceus, Olim Abbatiæ S. Medardi +Suessionensis in uncialibus litteris et auricis scriptus. Sæc. VI."_ The +preceding is written in an old hand, inserted in the book. It is a folio +volume of unquestionably great antiquity; but I should apprehend that it is +_antedated_ by at least _two_ centuries. It is full of embellishment, of a +varied and splendid character. The title to each Gospel is in very large +capital letters of gold, upon a purple ground: both the initial letter and +the border round the page being elaborately ornamented. The letter prefixed +to St. Matthew's Gospel is highly adorned, and in very good taste. Each +page consists of two columns, in capital letters of gold, throughout: +within borders of a quiet purple, or lilac tint, edged with gold. It has +been said that no two borders are alike altogether. A portrait of each +Evangelist is prefixed to the title; apparently coeval with the time: the +composition is rather grotesque; the colours are without any glaze, and the +perspective is bad. + +LATIN BIBLE OF CHARLES THE BALD. Folio. When this volume was described by +me, on a former occasion,[30] from merely printed authorities, of course it +was not in my power to do it, if I may so speak, "after the life,"--for +although nearly ten centuries have elapsed since this Bible has been +executed, yet, considering its remote age, it may be said to be fresh and +in most desirable condition. The authority, just hinted at, notices that +this magnificent volume was deposited in the library by _Baluze_, the head +librarian to Colbert; but a note in that eminent man's hand writing, +prefixed, informs us that the Canons of the Cathedral church at Metz made +Colbert a present of it. + +The reverse of the last leaf but one is occupied by Latin verses, in +capital letters of gold, at the top of which, in two lines, we make out--" +_Qualiter uiuian monachus sci martini consecrat hanc bibliam Karolo +ipatorj_," &c. The ensuing and last leaf is probably, in the eye of an +antiquarian virtuoso, more precious than either of its decorative +precursors. It exhibits the PORTRAIT OF CHARLES THE BALD; who is surrounded +by four attendants, blended, as it were, with a group of twelve below--in +the habits of priests--listening to the oration of one, who stands nearly +in the centre.[31] This illumination, in the whole, measures about fourteen +inches in height by nearly ten and a half in width: the purple ground being +frequently faded into a greenish tint. The volume itself is about twenty +inches in height by fifteen wide. + +PSALTER OF CHARLES THE BALD. This very precious volume was also in the +library of the Great Colbert. It is a small quarto, bound in the most +sumptuous manner. The exterior of the first side of the binding has an +elaborate piece of sculpture, in ivory, consisting of small human figures, +beasts, &c.; and surrounded with oval and square coloured stones. The +exterior of the other, or corresponding, side of the binding has the same +species of sculpture, in ivory; but no stones. The text of the volume is in +gold capitals throughout; but the ornaments, as well as the portrait of +Charles, are much inferior to those in that just described. However, this +is doubtless a valuable relic. + +PRAYER BOOK OF CHARLES THE BALD; in small 4to. This is rather an +_Evangelistarium_, or excerpts from the four Gospels. The writing is a +small roman lower-case. The illuminations, like those in the Bible, are +rubbed and faded, and they are smaller. The exterior ornament of the +binding, in the middle, contains a group of ivory figures--taken from the +_original_ covering or binding. + +BOOK OF THE GOSPELS, OF THE EMPEROR LOTHARIUS. Although it is very probable +that this book may be of a somewhat earlier date than the MS. just +described, yet as its original possessor was brother to _Charles the Bald_, +it is but courtesy to place him in the second rank after the French +monarch; and accordingly I have here inserted the volume in the order which +I apprehend ought to be observed. An ancient ms. memorandum tells us that +this book was executed in the 855th year of the Christian era, and in the +15th of the Emperor's reign. On the reverse of the first leaf is the +portrait of the Emperor, with an attendant on each side. The text commences +on the recto of the second leaf. On the reverse of the same leaf, is a +representation of the Creator. Upon the whole, this book may be classed +among the most precious specimens of early art in this library. On the +cover are the royal arms. + +LATIN BIBLE. Fol. This MS. of the sacred text is in four folio volumes, and +undoubtedly cannot be later than the thirteenth century. The text is +written with three columns in each page. Of the illuminations, the figures +are sketches, but freely executed: the colouring coarse and slightly put +on: the wings of some of the angels reminded me of those in the curious +_Hyde-Book_, belonging to the Marquis of Buckingham at Stowe; and of which, +as you may remember, there are fac-similes in _the Bibliographical +Decameron_.[32] The group of angels (on the reverse of the fourth leaf of +the first volume), attending the Almighty's commands, is cleverly managed +as to the draperies. The soldiers have quilted or net armour. The initial +letters are sometimes large, in the fashion of those in the Bible of +Charles the Bald, but very inferior in execution. In this MS. we may trace +something, I think, of the decline of art. + +PSALTERIUM LATINÈ, 8vo. If I were called upon to select any one volume, of +given octavo dimensions, I do not know whether I should not put my hand +upon the _present_--for you are hereby to know that this was the religious +manual of ST. LOUIS:--his own choice copy--selected, I warrant, from half a +score of performances of rival scribes, rubricators, and illuminators. Its +condition is absolutely wonderful--nor is the history of its locomotiveness +less surprising. First, for an account of its contents. On the reverse of +the first fly-leaf, we read the following memorandum--in red: "_Cest +psaultier fu saint loys. Et le dona la royne Iehanne deureux au roy +Charles filz du roy Iehan, lan de nres' mil troys cens soissante et neuf. +Et le roy charles pnt filz du dit Roy charles le donna a madame Marie de +frace sa fille religieuse a poissi. le iour saint michel lan mil +iiij^c._" This hand writing is undoubtedly of the time. + +A word now about the history of this volume. As this extract indicates, it +was deposited in a monastery at Poissy. When that establishment was +dissolved, the book was brought to M. Chardin, a bookseller and a +bibliomaniac. He sold it, some twenty-five years ago, to a Russian +gentleman, from whom it was obtained, at Moscow, by the Grand Duke +Nicholas.[33] The late King of France, through his ambassador, the Count de +Noailles, obtained it from the Grand Duke--who received, in return, from +his Majesty, a handsome present of two Sèvre vases. It is now therefore +safely and judiciously lodged in the Royal Library of France. It is in +wooden covers, wrapped in red velvet. The vellum is singularly soft, and of +its original pure tint. + +HISTORICAL PARAPHRASE OF THE BIBLE. Lat. and Fr. Folio. If any MS. of the +sacred text were to be estimated according to the _number of the +illuminations_ which it contained, the present would unquestionably claim +precedence over every other. In short, this is the MS. of which Camus, in +the _Notices et Extraits des MSS. de la Bibliothèque Nationale_, vol. vi. +p. 106, has given not only a pretty copious account, but has embellished +that account with fac-similes--one large plate, and two others--each +containing four subjects of the illuminations. After an attentive survey of +the various styles of art observable in these decorations, I am not +disposed to allow the antiquity of the MS. to go beyond the commencement of +the XVth century. A sight of the frontispiece causes a re-action of the +blood in a lover of genuine large margins. The book is cropt--not _quite_ +to the quick!... but then this frontispiece displays a most delicate and +interesting specimen of graphic art. It is executed in a sort of gray +tone:--totally destitute of other colour. According to Camus, there are +upwards of five thousand illuminations; and a similar work, in his +estimation, could not _now_ be executed under 100,000 francs. + +A SIMILAR MS. This consists but of one volume, of a larger size, of 321 +leaves. It is also an historical Bible. The illuminations are arranged in a +manner like those of the preceding; but in black and white only, delicately +shaded. The figures are tall, and the females have small heads; just what +we observe in those of the _Roman d'Alexandre_, in the Bodleian library. It +is doubtless a manuscript of nearly the same age, although this may be +somewhat more recent. + +LIBER GENERATIONIS IHI XTI. Of all portions of the sacred text--not +absolutely a consecutive series of the Gospels, or of any of the books of +the Old Testament--the present is probably, not only the oldest MS. in that +particular department, but, with the exception of the well known _Codex +Claromontanus_, the most ancient volume in the Royal Library. It is a +folio, having purple leaves throughout, upon which the text is executed in +silver capitals. Both the purple and the silver are faded. On the exterior +of the binding are carvings in ivory, exceedingly curious, but rather +clumsy. The binding is probably coeval with the MS. They call it of the +ninth century; but I should rather estimate it of the eighth. It is +undoubtedly an interesting and uncommon volume. + +EVANGELIUM STI. IOHANNIS. This is a small oblong folio, bound in red +velvet. It is executed in a very large, lower-case, coarse gothic and roman +letter, alternately:--in letters of gold throughout. The page is narrow, +the margin is large, and the vellum soft and beautiful. There is a rude +portrait of the Evangelist prefixed, on a ground entirely of gold. The +capital initial letter is also rude. The date of this manuscript is pushed +as high as the eleventh century: but I doubt this antiquity. + +LIBER PRECUM: CUM NOTIS, CANTICIS ET FIGURIS. I shall begin my account of +PRAYER BOOKS, BREVIARIES, &C. with the present: in all probability the most +ancient within these walls. The volume before me is an oblong folio, not +much unlike a tradesman's day-book. A ms. note by Maugerard, correcting a +previous one, assigns the composition of this book to a certain Monk, of +the name of _Wickingus_, of the abbey of Prum, of the Benedictin order. It +was executed, as appears on the reverse of the forty-eighth leaf, "_under +the abbotships of Gilderius and Stephanus_." It is full of illuminations, +heavily and clumsily done, in colours, which are now become very dull. I do +not consider it as older than the twelfth century, from the shield with a +boss, and the depressed helmet. There are interlineary annotations in a +fine state of preservation. In the whole, ninety-one leaves. It is bound in +red morocco. + +BREVIARE DE BELLEVILLE: Octavo. 2 volumes. Rich and rare as may be the +graphic gems in this marvellous collection, I do assure you, my good +friend, that it would be difficult to select two octavo volumes of greater +intrinsic curiosity and artist-like execution, than are those to which I am +now about to introduce you:--especially the first. They were latterly the +property of Louis XIV. but had been originally a present from Charles VI. +to our Richard II. Thus you see a good deal of personal history is attached +to them. They are written in a small, close, Gothic character, upon vellum +of the most beautiful colour. Each page is surrounded by a border, +(executed in the style of the age--perhaps not later than 1380) and very +many pages are adorned by illuminations, especially in the first volume, +which are, even now, as fresh and perfect as if just painted. The figures +are small, but have more finish (to the best of my recollection) than those +in our Roman d'Alexandre, at Oxford. + +At the end of the first volume is the following inscription--written in a +stiff, gothic, or court-hand character: the capital letters being very tall +and highly ornamented. "_Cest Breuiare est a l'usaige des Jacobins. Et est +en deux volumes Dont cest cy Le premier, et est nomme Le Breuiaire de +Belleville. Et le donna el Roy Charles le vj^e. Au roy Richart Dangleterre, +quant il fut mort Le Roy Henry son successeur L'envoya a son oncle Le Duc +de Berry, auquel il est a present."_ This memorandum has the signature of +"Flamel," who was Secretary to Charles VI. On the opposite page, in the +same ancient Gothic character, we read: "_Lesquelz volumes mon dit Seigneur +a donnez a ma Dame Seur Marie de France. Ma niepce."_ Signed by the same. +The Abbé L'Epine informs me that Flamel was a very distinguished character +among the French: and that the royal library contains several books which +belonged to him. + +BREVIARY OF JOHN DUKE OF BEDFORD. Pursuing what I imagine to be a tolerably +correct chronological order, I am now about to place before you this +far-famed _Breviary_: companion to the MISSAL which originally belonged to +the same eminent Possessor, and of which our countrymen[34] have had more +frequent opportunities of appreciating the splendour and beauty than the +Parisians; as it is not likely that the former will ever again become the +property of an Englishman. Doubtless, at the sale of the Duchess of +Portland's effects in 1786, some gallant French nobleman, if not Louis XVI. +himself, should have given an unlimited commission to purchase it, in order +that both _Missal_ and _Breviary_ might have resumed that close and +intimate acquaintance, which no doubt originally subsisted between them, +when they lay side by side upon the oaken shelves of their first +illustrious Owner. Of the _two_ performances, however, there can be no +question that the superiority lies decidedly with the _Missal_: on the +score of splendour, variety, and skilfulness of execution. + +The last, and by much the most splendid illumination, is _that_ for which +the artists of the middle age, and especially the old illuminators, seem to +have reserved all their powers, and upon which they lavished all their +stock of gold, ultramarine, and carmine. You will readily anticipate that I +am about to add--the _Assumption of the Virgin_. One's memory is generally +fallacious in these matters; but of all the exquisite, and of all the +minute, elaborate, and dazzling works of art, of the illuminatory kind, I +am quite sure that I have not seen any thing which _exceeds_ this. To +_equal_ it--there may be some few: but its superior, (of its own particular +class of subject) I think it would be very difficult to discover. + +HORÆ BEATÆ MARIÆ VIRGINIS. This may be called either a large thick octavo, +or a very small folio. Probably it was originally more decidedly of the +latter kind. It is bound in fish skin; and a ms. note prefixed thus informs +us. "_Manuscrit aqui du C^{en} Papillon au commencement du mois de Frimaire +de lan XII. de la République."_ This is without doubt among the most superb +and beautiful books, of its class, in the Royal Library. The title is +ornamented in an unusual but splendid manner. Some of the larger +illuminations are elaborately executed; especially the first--representing +the _Annunciation_. The robe of the Angel, kneeling, is studded with small +pearls, finished with the minutest touches. The character of ART, generally +throughout, is that of the time and manner of the volume last described: +but the present is very frequently inferior in merit to what may be +observed in the Bedford Breviary. In regard to the number of decorations, +this volume must also be considered as less interesting: but it possesses +some very striking and very brilliant performances. Thus, _St. Michael and +the Devil_ is absolutely in a blaze of splendor; while the illumination on +the reverse of the same leaf is not less remarkable for a different effect. +A quiet, soft tone--from a profusion of tender touches of a grey tint, in +the architectural parts of the ornaments--struck me as among the most +pleasing specimens of the kind I had ever seen. The latter and larger +illuminations have occasionally great power of effect, from their splendid +style of execution--especially that in which the central compartment is +occupied by _St. George and the Dragon_. Some of the smaller illuminations, +in which an Angel is shewing the cruelties about to be inflicted on the +wicked, by demons, are terrific little bits! As for the vellum, it is "de +toute beauté." + +HISTORIA BEATÆ MARIÆ VIRGINIS. Folio. This is briefly described in the +printed catalogue, under number 6811. It is a large and splendid folio, in +a very fine state of preservation; but of which the art is, upon the whole, +of the ordinary and secondary class of merit. Yet it is doubtless a volume +of great interest and curiosity. Even to English feelings, it will be +gratifying to observe in it the portrait of _Louisa of Savoy_, mother of +Francis I. That illustrious lady is sitting in a chair, surrounded by her +attendants; and is in all probability a copy from the life. The performance +is a metrical composition, in stanzas of eleven verses. I select the +opening lines, because they relate immediately to the portrait in question. + + _Tres excellente illustre et magnificque + Fleur de noblesse exquise et redolente + Dame dhonneur princesse pacifique + Salut a ta maieste precellente + Tes seruiteurs par voye raisonnable + Tant iusticiers que le peuple amyable. + De amyens cite dicte de amenite + Recomandant sont par humilite + Leur bien publicque en ta grace et puissance + Toy confessant estre en realite + Mere humble et franche au grant espoir de France_. + +The text is accompanied by the common-place flower Arabesques of the +period. + +HOURS OF ANNE OF BRITTANY. The order of this little catalogue of a few of +the more splendid and curious ILLUMINATED MANUSCRIPTS, in the Royal Library +of France, has at length, my worthy friend, brought me in contact with the +magical and matchless volume usually designated by the foregoing title. You +are to know--in the first place--that, of ALL the volumes in this most +marvellous Library, the present is deemed THE MOST PRECIOUS. Not even the +wishes and regulations of Royalty itself allow of its migration beyond the +walls of the public library. There it is kept: there it is opened, and +shewn, and extolled beyond any limits fixed to the admiration of the +beholder. It is a rare and bewitching piece of art, I do assure you: and +so, raising your expectations to their highest pitch, I will allow you to +anticipate whatever is wonderful in FRANCESCO VERONESE and gorgeous in +GIROLAMO DEI LIBRI.[35] Perhaps, however, this is not the most happy +illustration of the art which it displays. + +The first view of this magical volume is doubtless rather disheartening: +but the sight of the original silver clasps (luckily still preserved) will +operate by way of a comforter. Upon them you observe this ornament: + +[Illustration.] + +denoting, by the letter and the ducal crown, that the book belonged to +Anne, Duchess of Brittany. On the reverse of the second leaf we observe the +_Dead Christ_ and the _three Maries_. These figures are about six inches in +height. They are executed with great delicacy, but in a style somewhat too +feeble for their size. One or two of the heads, however, have rather a good +expression. + +Opposite to this illumination is the _truly invaluable_ PORTRAIT OF ANNE +herself: attended by two females, each crowned with a glory; one is +displaying a banner, the other holding a cross in her hand. To the left of +these attendants, is an old woman, hooded, with her head encircled by a +glory. They are all three sweetly and delicately touched; but there are +many evident marks of injury and ill usage about the surface of the +colouring. Yet, as being _ideal_ personages, my eye hastily glided off them +to gaze upon the illustrious Lady, by whose orders, and at whose expense, +these figures were executed. It is upon the DUCHESS that I fix my eye, and +lavish my commendations. Look at her[36] as you here behold her. Her gown +is brown and gold, trimmed with dark brown fur. Her hair is brown. Her +necklace is composed of coloured jewels. Her cheek has a fresh tint; and +the missal, upon which her eyes are bent, displays highly ornamented art. +The cloth upon the table is dark crimson. + +The _Calendar_ follows; in which, in one of the winter months, we observe a +very puerile imitation of flakes of snow falling over the figures and the +landscape below. The calendar occupies a space of about six inches by four, +completely enclosed by a coloured margin. Then begins a series of the most +beautiful ornaments of FLOWERS, FRUITS, INSECTS, &C. for which the +illuminators of this period were often eminently distinguished. These +ornaments are almost uniformly introduced in the fore-edges, or right-side +margins, of the leaves; although occasionally, but rarely, they encircle +the text. They are from five to six inches in length, or height; having the +Latin name of the plant at top, and the French name at the bottom. Probably +these titles were introduced by a later hand. It is really impossible to +describe many of them in terms of adequate praise. The downy plum is almost +bursting with ripeness: the butterfly's wings seem to be in tremulous +motion, while they dazzle you by their varied lustre: the hairy insect puts +every muscle and fibre into action, as he insinuates himself within the +curling of the crisped leaves; while these leaves are sometimes glittering +with dew, or coated with the finest down. The flowers and the vegetables +are equally admirable, and equally true to nature. To particularise would +be endless. Assuredly these efforts of art have no rival--of their kind. +_Scripture Subjects. Saints, Confessors, &c._ succeed in regular order, +with accompaniments of fruits and flowers, more or less exquisitely +executed:--the whole, a collection of peculiar, and, of its kind, +UNRIVALLED ART. This extraordinary volume measures twelve inches by seven +and a half. + +HOURS BELONGING TO POPE PAUL III. 8vo. The portrait of the Pope is at the +bottom of the first ornament, which fixes the period of its execution to +about the middle of the sixteenth century. Towards the end the pages are +elaborately ornamented in the arabesque manner. There are some pleasing +children: of that style of art which is seen in the Missal belonging to Sir +M.M. Sykes, of the time of Francis I.[37] The scription is very beautiful. +The volume afterwards belonged to Pius VI., whose arms are worked in +tambour on the outside. It is kept in a case, and is doubtless a fine book. + +MISSALS: numbers 19-4650. Under this head I shall notice two pretty volumes +of the devotional kind; of which the subjects are executed in red, blue, +&c.--and of which the one seems to be a copy of the other. The borders +exhibit a style of art somewhat between that of Julio Clovio and what is +seen in the famous Missal just mentioned. + +MISSAL OF HENRY IV. No. 1171. This book is of the end of the XVIth century. +The ground is gold, with a small brilliant, roman letter for text. The +subjects are executed in a pale chocolate tint, rather capricious than +tasteful. It has been cropt in the binding. The name and arms of Henry are +on the exterior. + +Thus much, my dear friend, for the SACRED TEXT--either in its original, +uninterrupted state--or as partially embodied in _Missals_, _Hours_, or +_Rituals_. I think it will now be but reasonable to give you some little +respite from the toil of further perusal; especially as the next class of +MSS. is so essentially different. In the mean while, I leave you to carry +the image of ANNE OF BRITTANY to your pillow, to beguile the hours of +languor or of restlessness. A hearty adieu. + + +[30] _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. i. p. xxxi. + +[31] Earl Vivian, and eleven monks, in the act of presenting the volume to + Charles. + +[32] Vol. i. p. lvi.-vii. + +[33] The present Emperor of Russia. + +[34] A very minute and particular description of this Missal, together with + a fac-simile of the DUKE OF BEDFORD kneeling before his tutelary SAINT + GEORGE, will be found in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. i. + p. cxxxvi-cxxxix. + +[35] For an account of these ancient worthies in the art of illumination, + consult the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. i. p. cxlii.-clxiv. + +[36] See the OPPOSITE PLATE. [The beautiful copy of the Original, by Mr. G. + Lewis, from which the Plates in this work were taken, is now in the + possession of Thomas Ponton, Esq.] + +[37] [It was bought at Sir Mark's sale, by Messrs. Rivington and Cochrane. + See a fac-simile of one of the illuminations in the _Bibliographical + Decameron_, vol. i. p. clxxix.] + + + + +_LETTER IV._ + +THE SAME SUBJECT CONTINUED. + + +Are you thoroughly awake, and disenchanted from the magic which the +contents of the preceding letter may have probably thrown around you? +Arouse--to scenes of a different aspect, but of a not less splendid and +spirit-stirring character. Buckle on your helmet, ... for the trumpet +sounds to arms. The _Knights of the Round Table_ call upon you, from their +rock-hewn, or wood-embowered, recesses, to be vigilant, faithful, +enterprising, and undaunted. In language less elevated, and somewhat more +intelligible, I am about to place before you a few illuminated MSS. +relating to HISTORY and ROMANCE; not without, in the first place, making a +digression into one or two volumes of MORALITIES, if they may be so called. +Prepare therefore, in the first place, for the inspection of a couple of +volumes--which, for size, splendor, and general state of preservation, have +no superior in the Royal Library of France. + +CITÉ DE DIEU: No. 6712: folio. 2 vols. These are doubtless among the most +magnificent _shew-books_ in this collection; somewhat similar, in size and +style of art, to the MS. of _Valerius Maximus_, in our British Museum--of +which, should you not have forgotten it, some account may be read in the +_Bibliographical Decameron_.[38] At the very first page we observe an +assemblage of Popes, Cardinals, and Bishops, with a King seated on his +throne in the midst of them. The figures in the fore-ground are from four +to five inches high; and so in gradation upwards. The colouring of some of +the draperies is in a most delightful tone. The countenances have also a +soft and quiet expression. The arms of _Graville_ (Grauille?) are in the +circular border. Three leaves beyond, a still larger and more crowded +illumination appears--in a surprising state of freshness and beauty; +measuring nearly a foot and a half in height. It is prefixed to the _First +Book_, and is divided into a group in the clouds, and various groups upon +the earth below. These latter are representations of human beings in all +situations and occupations of life--exhibiting the prevalence both of +virtues and vices. They are encircled at bottom by a group of Demons. The +figures do not exceed two inches in height. Nothing can exceed the delicacy +and brilliancy of this specimen of art about the middle of the fifteenth +century:---a ms. date of 1469 shewing the precise period of its execution. +This latter is at the end of the first volume. Each book, into which the +work is divided, has a large illumination prefixed, of nearly equal beauty +and splendor. + +LES ECHECS AMOUREUX. Folio. No. 6808. The title does not savour of any +moral application to be derived from the perusal of the work. Nevertheless, +there are portions of it which were evidently written with that view. It is +so lovely, and I had almost said so matchless, a volume, that you ought to +rejoice to have an account of it in any shape. On the score of delicate, +fresh, carefully-executed art, this folio may challenge comparison with any +similar treasure in the Bibliothèque du Roi. The subjects are not crowded, +nor minute; nor of a very wonderful and intricate nature; but they are +quietly composed, softly executed, and are, at this present moment, in a +state of preservation perfectly beautiful and entire. + +BOCCACE; DES CAS DES NOBLES HOMMES ET FEMMES: No. 6878. The present seems +to be the fit place to notice this very beautiful folio volume of one of +the most popular works of Boccaccio. Copies of it, both in ms. and early +print--are indeed common in foreign libraries. There is a date of 1409 at +the very commencement of the volume: but I take the liberty to question +whether that be the date of its actual execution. The illuminations in this +manuscript exhibit a fine specimen of the commencement of that soft, and as +some may think woolly, style of art, which appears to so much advantage in +the _Bedford Missal and Bedford Breviary_; and of which, indeed, a choice +specimen of circular ornaments is seen round the first large illumination +of the creation and expulsion of Adam and Eve. These illuminations are not +of first rate merit, nor are they all by the same hand. + +THE SAME WORK: with the same date--but the hand-writing is evidently more +modern. Of the illuminations, it will be only necessary to mention the +large one at fol. iij.c. (ccc.) in which the gray tints and the gold are +very cleverly managed. At the end is seen, in a large sprawling character, +the following inscription: "_Ce Livre est A Le Harne. Fille Et Seur de Roys +de France, Duchesse de Bourbonnois et dauuergne. Contesse de Clermont et de +Tourez. Dame de Beaujeu."_ This inscription bears the date of 1468; not +very long before which I suspect the MS. to have been executed. + +THE SAME: of the same date--which date I am persuaded was copied by each +succeeding scribe. The illuminations are here generally of a very inferior +character: but the first has much merit, and is by a superior hand. The +text is executed in a running secretary Gothic. There are two other MSS. of +the same work which I examined; and in one of which the well known subject +of the _wheel of fortune_ is perhaps represented for the first time. It +usually accompanied the printed editions, and may be seen in that of our +Pynson, in 1494,[39] folio. I suspect, from one of the introductory +prefaces, that the celebrated _Laurent le Premier Fait_ was the principal +scribe who gave a sort of fashion to this MS. in France. + +PTOLEMÆUS, _Latinè_. A magnificent MS.--if size and condition be alone +considered. It is however precious in the estimation of Collectors of +portraits, as it contains one of Louis XII;[40]--This portrait is nearly in +the centre of the frontispiece to the book. Behind the monarch stand two +men; one leaning upon his staff. A large gothic window is above. A crucifix +and altar are beneath it. There is but one other similar illumination in +the volume; and each nearly occupies the whole of the page--which is almost +twenty-three inches long by fourteen wide. The other illumination is hardly +worth describing. This noble volume, which almost made the bearer stoop +beneath its weight, is bound in wood:--covered with blue velvet, with a +running yellow pattern, of the time of Louis--but now almost worn away. + +TITE-LIVE. Fol. A noble and magnificent MS. apparently of the beginning of +the XVth. century. It seems to point out the precise period when the +artists introduced those soft, full-coloured, circular borders--just after +the abandonment of the sharp outline, and thin coat of colour--discoverable +in the illuminations of the XIIIth and XIVth centuries. The first grand +illumination, with a circular border, is an interesting illustration of +this remark. The backgrounds to the pictures are the well-known small +bright squares of blue and gold. The text is in a firm square and short +gothic character. + +L'HISTOIRE ROMAINE: No. 6984: Folio, 3 vols. written in the French +language. These are among the _shew books_ of the library. The exterior +pattern of the binding is beautiful in the extreme. Such a play of lines, +in all directions, but chiefly circular, I never before saw. The date, on +the outside, is 1556. The writing and the illuminations are of the latter +part of the XVth century; and although they are gorgeous, and in a fine +state of preservation, yet is the character of the art but secondary, and +rather common. + +ROYAL BIOGRAPHY OF FRANCE. Fol. This exquisite volume may be justly +designated as the _nonpareil_ of its kind. It is rather a book of +PORTRAITS, than a MS. with intermixed illuminations. The scription, in a +sort of cursive, secretary gothic character, merits not a moment's +attention: the pencil of the artist having wholly eclipsed the efforts of +the scribe. Such a series of exquisitely finished portraits, of all the +Kings of France (with the unaccountable omission, unless it has been taken +out, of that of Louis XII.) is perhaps no where else to be seen. M. Coeuré, +the French artist employed by me, stood in ecstasies before it! These +portraits are taken from old monuments, missals, and other ancient and +supposed authentic documents. They are here touched and finished in a +manner the most surprisingly perfect. The book appears to have been +executed expressly for CHARLES IX.--to whom it was in fact presented by +_Dutilliet_, (the artist or the superintendant of the volume) in his proper +person. The gilt stamp of the two reversed C's are on the sides of the +binding. I should add, that the portraits are surrounded by borders of +gold, shaded in brown, in the arabesque manner. All the portraits are whole +lengths; and if my time and pursuits had permitted it, I should, ere this, +have caused M. Coeuré to have transfused a little of his enthusiasm into +faithful facsimiles of those of Francis I.--my avowed favourite--of which +one represents him in youth, and the other in old age. Why do not the +Noblesse of France devote some portion of that wealth, which may be applied +to worse purposes, in obtaining a series of engravings executed from this +matchless volume?! + + +ROMANCES, BOOKS OF TOURNAMENT, &c. + +LANCELOT DU LAC shall lead the way. He was always considered among the +finest fellows who ever encircled the _Table Ronde_--and _such_ a copy of +his exploits, as is at this moment before me, it is probably not very easy +for even Yourself to conceive. If the height and bulk of the knight were in +proportion to this written record of achievements, the plume of his helmet +must have brushed the clouds. This enormous volume (No. 6783) is divided +into three books or parts: of which the first part is illuminated in the +usual coarse style of the latter end of the XIVth century. The title to +this first part, in red ink, is the most perfect resemblance of the +earliest type used by Caxton, which I remember to have seen in an ancient +manuscript. The other titles do not exhibit that similarity. The first part +has ccxlviij. leaves. The second part has no illuminations: if we except a +tenderly touched outline, in a brownish black, upon the third leaf--which +is much superior to any specimen of art in the volume. This second part has +cccj. leaves. At the end:-- + + _Sensuit le liure du saint graal_. + +The spaces for illuminations are regularly preserved, but by what accident +or design they were not filled up remains to be conjectured. The third +part, or book, is fully illuminated like the first. There is a very droll +illumination on folio vij.^{xx}. xij. At the end of the volume, on folio +ccxxxiij., recto, is the following date: "_Aujourduy iiij. Jour du Jullet +lan mil ccc. soixante dix a este escript ce livre darmes par Micheaugatelet +prestre demeurant en la ville de Tournay_." Just before the colophon, on +the reverse of the preceding leaf, is a common-place illumination of the +interment of a figure in a white sheet--with this incription: + + ICI: GIST. LECORS: GALAHAVT: SEIGNEVR + DES. LOINTENES. ILES. ET. AVECQVES. LVI. REPOVSE: MESIRE + LANCELOT. DVLAC. MELLIEVR. CHRL. DV. MVDE. APRES. GVALEAT. + +There are two or three more illuminated MSS. of our well-beloved Lancelot. +One, in six volumes, has illuminations, but they are of the usual character +of those of the fifteenth century. + +LANCELOT DU LAC, &C. This MS. is in three volumes. The first contains only, +as it were, an incipient illumination: but there is preserved, on the +reverse of the binding, and written in the same character with the text, +three lines--of which the private history, or particular application, is +now forgotten--although we learn, from the word _bloys_ being written at +top, that this MS. came from the library of Catherine de Medici--when she +resided at Blois. + +The second volume of this copy is in quite a different character, and much +older than the first. The colophon assigns to it the date of 1344. The +volume is full of illuminations, and the first leaf exhibits a fair good +specimen of those drolleries which are so frequently seen in illuminated +MSS. of that period. The third volume is in a still different hand-writing: +perhaps a little more ancient. It has a few slight illuminations, only as +capital initials. + +LANCELOT DU LAC: No. 6782. This MS. is executed in a small gothic +character, in ink which has now become much faded. From the character of +the illuminations, I should consider it to be much more ancient than either +of the preceding--even at the commencement of the thirteenth century. Among +the illuminations there is a very curious one, with this prefix; + + _Vne dame venant a.c. chr. q dort en son + lit & ele le volt baisier. mais vne + damoiselle li deffendi_ + +You will not fail to bear in mind that the history of Lancelot du Lac will +be also found in those of Tristan and Arthur. I shall now therefore +introduce you to a MS. or two relating to the former. + +TRISTAN. No. 6957, 2 vols. _folio_. This is a very fine old MS. apparently +of the middle of the XIVth century. The writing and the embellishments +fairly justify this inference. The first volume contains three hundred and +fifty-one leaves. On the reverse of the last leaf but one, is the word +"_anne_" in large lower-case letters; but a ms. memorandum, in a later +hand, at the end, tells us that this copy was once the property of "_the +late Dame Agnes" &c_. The second volume is written in more of the secretary +gothic character--and is probably somewhat later than the first. It is +executed in double columns. The illuminations are little more than +outlines, prettily executed upon a white ground--or rather the vellum is +uncoloured. This volume seems to want a leaf at the commencement, and yet +it has a title at top, as if the text actually began there. The colophon is +thus: + + _Explicit le Romat de. T. et de yseut + qui fut fait lan mille. iijc. iiijxx. et xix. + la veille de pasques grans._ + +TRISTAN, FILS DE MELIADUS. No. 6773. A folio of almost unparalleled breadth +of back;--measuring more than six inches and a quarter, without the +binding. A beautiful illumination once graced the first leaf, divided into +four compartments, which is now almost effaced. In the third compartment, +there are two men and two women playing at chess, in a vessel. What +remains, only conveys an imperfect idea of its original beauty. The lady +seems to have received check-mate, from the melancholy cast of her +countenance, and her paralised attitude. The man is lifting up both hands, +as if in the act of exultation upon his victory. The two other figures are +attendants, who throw the dice. Upon the whole, this is among the prettiest +bits I have yet seen. It is worth noticing that the yellow paint, like our +Indian yellow, is here very much used; shaded with red. The generality of +the illuminations are fresh; but there is none of equal beauty with that +just described. From the scription, and the style of art, I should judge +this MS. to have been executed about the year 1400 or 1420; but a +memorandum, apparently in a somewhat later hand, says it was finished in +1485:--_Par Michean gonnot de la brouce pstre demeurant a croysant._ +Some lines below have been scratched out. The colophon, just before, is on +the recto of the last leaf: + + _Explicit le romans de tristan et de la Royne + Yseult la blonde Royne de cornoalle._ + +TRISTAN: No. 6774. _Folio._ 2 vols. The illuminations are magnificent, but +lightly coloured and shaded. The draperies are in good taste. The border to +the first large illumination, in four parts, is equally elegant in +composition and colouring, and a portion of it might be worth copying. +There is a pretty illumination of two women sitting down. A table cloth, +with dinner upon it, is spread upon the grass between them:--a bottle is +plunged into a running stream from a fountain, with an ewer on one side in +the fore-ground. One woman plays upon the guitar while the other eats her +dinner. The second volume has a fine illumination divided into four parts, +with a handsome border--not quite perhaps so rich as the preceding. Among +the subjects, there is a singular one of Lancelot du Lac helping a lady out +of a cauldron in a state of nudity: two gentlemen and a lady are quietly +looking on. The text appertaining to this subject runs thus: "_Et quant +elle voit lancelot si lui dist hoa sire cheualiers pour dieu ostes moy de +ceste aure ou il a eaue qui toute mait Et lancelot vint a la aure et prent +la damoiselle par la main et lentrait hors. Et quant elle se voit deliure +elle luy chiet aux pies et lui baise la iambe et lui dist sire benoite soit +leure que vous feustes oncques nes, &c_." The top of the last leaf is cut +off: and the date has been probably destroyed. The colophon runs thus: + + _Cy fenist le livre de tristan et de la + royne yseult de cornouaille et + le graal que plus nen va_. + +The present is a fine genuine old copy: in faded yellow morocco binding-- +apparently not having been subjected to the torturing instruments of De +Rome. + +LE ROY ARTUS. No. 6963. Folio. I consider this to be the oldest illuminated +MS. of the present Romance which I have yet seen. It is of the date of +1274, as its colophon imports. It is written in double columns, but the +illuminations are heavy and sombre;--about two inches in height, generally +oblong. There are grotesques, attached to letters, in the margin. The +backgrounds are thick, shining gold. At the end: + + _Explicit de lanselot. del lac[41] + Ces Roumans fu par escris. En lan + del Incarnation nostre Segnor. mil + deus cens et sixante et quatorse le + semedi apres pour ce li ki lescrist_. + +It is in a fine state of preservation. Mons. Méon shewed me a manuscript of +the ST. GRAAL, executed in a similar style, and written in treble columns. + +LE MEME. This is a metrical MS of the XIIIth century: executed in double +columns. The illuminations are small but rather coarse. It is in fine +preservation. Bound in green velvet. Formerly the outsides of this binding +had silver gilt medallions; five on each side. These have been latterly +stolen. I also saw a fine PERCEFOREST, in four large folio volumes upon +vellum, written in a comparatively modern Gothic hand. The illuminations +were to be _supplied_--as spaces are left for them. There is also a paper +MS. of the same Romance, not illuminated. + +ROMAN DE LA ROSE: No. 6983. I consider this to be the oldest MS. of its +subject which I have seen. It is executed in a small Gothic character, in +two columns, with ink which has become much faded: and from the character, +both of the scription and the embellishments, I apprehend the date of it to +be somewhere about the middle of the XIVth century. The illuminations are +small, but pretty and perfect; the backgrounds are generally square, +diamond-wise, without gold; but there are backgrounds of solid shining +gold. The subjects are rather quaintly and whimsically, than elegantly, +treated. In the whole, one hundred and sixty leaves. From Romances, of all +and of every kind, let us turn our eyes towards a representation of +subjects intimately connected with them: to wit, + +A BOOK OF TOURNAMENTS. No. 8351. Folio. This volume is in a perfect blaze +of splendour. Hither let PROSPERO and PALMERIN resort--to choose their +casques, their gauntlets, their cuirasses, and lances: yea, let more than +one-half of the Roxburghers make an annual pilgrimage to visit this tome!-- +which developes, in thirteen minutes, more chivalrous intelligence than is +contained even in the mystical leaves of the _Fayt of Arms and Chyvalrye_ +of our beloved Caxton. Be my pulse calm, and my wits composed, as I essay +the description of this marvellous volume. Beneath a large illumination, +much injured, of Louis XI. sitting upon his throne--are the following +verses: + + _Pour exemple aulx nobles et gens darmes + Qui appetent les faitz darmes hautes + Le Sire de gremthumsé duyt es armes + Volut au roy ce livre presenter_. + +Next ensue knights on horseback, heralds, &c.--with a profusion of +coat-armours: each illumination occupying a full page. On the reverse of +the ninth leaf, is a most interesting illumination, in which is seen the +figure of _John Duke of Brittany_. He is delivering a sword to a king at +arms, to carry to his cousin, the Duke of Bourbon; as he learns, from +general report, that the Duke is among the bravest champions in +Christendom, and in consequence he wishes to break a lance with him. + +The illumination, where the Duke thus appears, is quite perfect, and full +of interest: and I make no doubt but the countenance of the herald, who is +kneeling to receive the sword, is a faithful portrait. It is full of what +may be called individuality of character. The next illumination represents +the _Duke of Bourbon accepting the challenge_, by receiving the sword. His +countenance is slightly injured. The group of figures, behind him, is very +clever. The ensuing illumination exhibits the herald offering the Duke de +Bourbon the choice of eight coats of armour, to put on upon the occasion. A +still greater injury is here observable in the countenance of the Duke. The +process of conducting the tournay, up to the moment of the meeting of the +combatants, is next detailed; and several illuminations of the respective +armours of the knights and their attendants, next claim our attention. On +the reverse of the xxxijnd, and on the recto of the xxxiijd leaf, the +combat of the two Dukes is represented. The seats and benches of the +spectators are then displayed: next a very large illumination of the +procession of knights and their attendants to the place of contest. Then +follows an interesting one of banners, coat armours, &c. suspended from +buildings--and another, yet larger and equally interesting, of the entry of +the judges. + +I am yet in the midst of the emblazoned throng. Look at yonder herald, with +four banners in his hand. It is a curious and imposing sight. Next succeeds +a formal procession--preparing for the combat. It is exceedingly +interesting, and many of the countenances are full of natural expression. +This is followed by a still more magnificent cavalcade, with judges in the +fore-ground; and the "dames et damoiselles," in fair array to the right. We +have next a grand rencontre of the knights attendant--carried on beneath a +balcony of ladies + + whose bright eyes + Reign influence, and decide the prize. + +These ladies, thus comfortably seated in the raised balcony, wear what we +should now call the _cauchoise_ cap. A group of grave judges is in another +balcony, with sundry mottos spread below. In the rencontre which takes +place, the mace seems to be the general instrument of attack and defence. +Splendid as are these illuminations, they yield to those which follow; +especially to that which _immediately_ succeeds, and which displays the +preparation for a tournament to be conducted upon a very large scale. We +observe throngs of combatants, and of female spectators in boxes above. +These are rather more delicately touched. Now comes ... the mixed and +stubborn fight of the combatants. They are desperately engaged with each +other; while their martial spirit is raised to the highest pitch by the +sharp and reverberating blasts of the trumpet. The trumpeters blow their +instruments with all their might. Every thing is in animation, bustle, +energy, and confusion. A man's head is cut off, and extended by an arm, to +which--in the position and of the size we behold--it would be difficult to +attach a body. Blood flows copiously on all sides. The reward of victory is +seen in the next and _last_ illumination. The ladies bring the white mantle +to throw over the shoulders of the conqueror. In the whole, there are only +lxxiiij. leaves. This is unquestionably a volume of equal interest and +splendor; and, when it was fresh from the pencil of the illuminator, its +effect must have been exquisite.[42] + +BOOK OF TOURNAMENTS: No. 8204. 8vo. We have here a sort of miniature +exhibition of the chief circumstances displayed in the previous and larger +MS. It is questionless a very precious book; but has been cruelly cropt. +The text and ornaments are clearly of the end of the fifteenth century; +perhaps about 1470. Nothing can well exceed the brilliancy and power of +many of the illuminations, which are very small and very perfect. The +knight, with a representation of the trefoil, (or what is called club, in +card playing) upon a gold mantle, kills the other with a black star upon a +white mantle. This mortal combat is the last in the book. Each of the +knights, praying before going to combat, is executed with considerable +power of expression. The ladies have the high (cauchoise) cap or bonnet. +The borders, of flowers, are but of secondary merit. + +POLYBIUS, _Græcè_. Folio. M. Gail placed before me, in a sly manner--as if +to draw off my attention from the volumes of chivalry just described,--the +present beautiful MS. of Polybius. It is comparatively recent, being of the +very commencement of the sixteenth century: but the writing exhibits a +perfect specimen of that style or form of character which the Stephenses +and Turnebus, &c. appear to have copied in their respective founts of the +Greek letter. It has also other, and perhaps stronger, claims to notice. +The volume belonged to Henry II. and Diane de Poictiers, and the +decorations of the pencil are worthy of the library to which it was +attached. The top ornament, and the initial letter,--at the beginning of +the text--are each executed upon a blue ground, shaded in brown and gold, +in the most exquisitely tasteful manner. This initial letter has been +copied "ad amussim" by old Robert Stephen. Upon the whole, this is really +an enchanting book, whether on the score of writing or of ornament. + +Farewell, now, therefore--to the Collection of MSS. in the _Bibliothèque du +Roi_ at Paris. Months and years may be spent among them, and the +vicissitudes of seasons (provided fires were occasionally introduced) +hardly felt. I seem, for the last fortnight, to have lived entirely in the +"olden time;" in a succession of ages from that of Charles the Bald to that +of Henri Quatre: and my eyes have scarcely yet recovered from the dazzling +effects of the illuminator's pencil. "II faut se reposer un peu." + + +[38] Vol. i. p. ccxx-i. + +[39] See _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. iv p. 421. + +[40] The fac-simile drawing of this portrait, by M. Coeuré--from which the + print was taken, in the previous edition of this work--is also in the + possession of my friend Mr. Ponton. See note, page 79 ante. + +[41] The words "del lac" are in a later hand. + +[42] What is rather singular, there is a duplicate of this book: a copy of + every illumination, done towards the beginning of the sixteenth + century; but the text is copied in a smaller hand, so as to compress + the volume into lxviij. leaves. Unluckily, the copies of the + illuminations are not only comparatively coarse, but are absolutely + faithless as to resemblances. There is a letter prefixed, from a + person named _Le Hay_, of the date of 1707, in which the author + tells some gentleman that he was in hopes to procure the volume for + 100 crowns; but afterwards, the owner obstinately asking 200, _Le + Hay_ tells his friend to split the difference, and offer 150. This + book once belonged to one "_Hector Le Breton Sievr de la + Doynetrie_"--as the lettering upon the exterior of the binding + implies--and as a letter to his son, of the date of 1660, within the + volume, also shows. This letter is signed by Le Breton. + + + + +_LETTER V._ + +SOME ACCOUNT OF EARLY PRINTED AND RARE BOOKS IN THE ROYAL LIBRARY. + + +As the ART of PRINTING rather suddenly, than gradually, checked the +progress of that of writing and illuminating--and as the pressman in +consequence pretty speedily tripped up the heels of the scribe--it will be +a natural and necessary result...that I take you with me to the collection +of PRINTED BOOKS. Accordingly, let us ascend the forementioned lofty flight +of stone steps, and paying attention to the affiche of "wiping our shoes," +let us enter: go straight forward: make our obeisance to Monsieur Van +Praet, and sit down doggedly but joyfully to the glorious volumes...many of +them + + Rough with barbaric gold, + +which, through his polite directions, are placed before us. To come to +plain matter of fact. Receive, my good friend, in right earnest and with +the strictest adherence to truth, a list of some of those rarer and more +magnificent productions of the ancient art of printing, which I have been +so many years desirous of inspecting, and which now, for the first time, +present themselves to my notice and admiration. After the respectable +example of M. Van Praet,[43] I shall generally, add the sizes, or +measurement[44] of the respective books examined--not so much for the sake +of making those unhappy whose copies are of less capacious dimensions, as +for the consolation of those whose copies may lift up their heads in a yet +more aspiring attitude. One further preliminary remark. I send you this +list precisely in the order in which chance, rather than a preconcerted +plan, happened to present the books to me. + +RECUEIL DES HISTOIRES DE TROYE. _Printed by Caxton_. Folio. The late M. De +La Serna Santander, who was Head Librarian of the public Library at +Brussels, purchased this book for the Royal Library for 150 francs.[45] It +is in the finest possible state of preservation; and is bound in red +morocco, with rather a tawdry lining of light blue water-tabby silk. + +THE SAME WORK. _Printed by Verard, without date_. Folio. This copy is UPON +VELLUM; in the finest possible condition both for size and colour. It is +printed in Verard's small gothic type, in long lines, with a very broad +margin. The wood-cuts are coloured. The last leaf of the first book is MS.: +containing only sixteen lines upon the recto of the leaf. This fine copy is +bound in red morocco. + +HORÆ BEATÆ VIRGINIS, Gr. _Printed by Aldus_. 1497. 12mo. Perhaps the rarest +Aldine volume in the world:--when found in a perfect state. M. Renouard had +not been able to discover a copy to enrich his instructive annals of the +Aldine typography.[46] The present copy is four inches and five eighths, by +three inches and a half. It is in its original clasp binding, with stamped +leather-outsides.[47] + +THE SHYPPE OF FOOLES. _Printed by Wynkyn de Worde_. 1509. 8vo. At length +this far-famed and long talked of volume has been examined. It is doubtless +a prodigious curiosity, and unique--inasmuch as this copy is UPON VELLUM. +The vellum is stout but soft. I suspect this copy to be rather cropt. It is +bound in red morocco, and is perfectly clean and sound throughout. + +ROMAN DE JASON. In French. _Printed by Caxton_. Folio. A little history is +attached to the acquisition of this book, which may be worth recital. An +unknown, and I may add an unknowing, person, bought this most exceedingly +rare volume, with the _Qudriloge of Alain Chartier_, 1477, Folio, in one +and the same ancient wooden binding, for the marvellously moderate sum of-- +_one louis_! The purchaser brought the volume to M. de La Serna Santander, +and asked him if he thought _two_ louis too much for their value. That wary +Bibliographer only replied, "I do not think it is." He became the +purchaser; and instantly and generously consigned the volumes to their +present place of destination.[48] You may remember that the collection of +Anthony Storer, in the library of Eton College, also possesses this book-- +at present wanting in Lord Spencer's library. The present copy contains one +hundred and thirty-two leaves, including a blank leaf; and is in a perfect +state of preservation. + +PSALTERIUM, Latinè. _Printed by Fust and Schoiffher_. 1457. Folio. EDITIO +PRINCEPS. This celebrated volume is a recent acquisition. It was formerly +the copy of Girardot de Préfond, and latterly that of Count M'Carthy; at +whose sale it was bought for 12,000 francs. It is cruelly cropt, especially +at the side margins; and is of too sombre and sallow a tint. Measurement-- +fourteen inches, by nine and a half. It is doubtless an absolutely +necessary volume in a collection like the present. Only SEVEN known copies +in the world. + +PSALTERIUM, Latinè. _Printed by the same_. 1459: Folio. _Editio Secunda_. +The first six leaves have been evidently much thumbed; and the copy, from +the appearance of the first leaf alone, is as evidently cropt. For the +colophon, both of this and of the preceding edition, examine the catalogue +of Lord Spencer's library.[49] Upon the whole, it strikes me, as far as +recollection may serve, that his Lordship's copy of each edition is +preferable to those under consideration.[50] This copy measures sixteen +inches and a quarter, by twelve and one-eighth. + +PSALTERIUM, Latinè. _Printed by Schoiffher_. 1490. Folio. A magnificent +volume: and what renders it still more desirable, it is printed UPON +VELLUM. Lord Spencer's copy is upon paper. The _previous_ editions are +_always_ found upon vellum. Fine and imposing as is the copy before me, it +is nevertheless evident--from the mutilated ancient numerals at top--that +it has been somewhat cropt. This fine book measures sixteen inches and five +eighths, by eleven inches and seven eighths. + +PSALTERIUM, Latinè. _Printed by Schoiffher_. 1502. Folio. This book +(wanting in the cabinet at St. James's Place) is upon paper. As far as +folio Cxxxvij. the leaves are numbered: afterwards, the printed numerals +cease. A ms. note, in the first leaf, says, that the text of the first +sixteen leaves precisely follows that of the first edition of 1457. The +present volume will be always held dear in the estimation of the +typographical antiquary. It is THE LAST in which the name of _Peter +Schoiffher_, the son-in-law of Fust, appears to have been introduced. That +printer died probably a short time afterwards. It measures fifteen inches +and one eighth in height, by ten inches and seven eighths in width. + +PSALTERIUM, Latinè. _Printed by Schoiffher's Son_. 1516. Folio. A fine and +desirable copy, printed UPON VELLUM. It is tolerably fair: measuring +fifteen inches, by ten inches and three quarters. + +I have little hesitation in estimating _these five copies_ of the earlier +editions of the Psalter, to be worth, at least, one thousand pounds. + +BIBLIA LATINA. (_Supposed to have been printed in 1455.)_ Folio. This is +the famous edition called the MAZARINE BIBLE, from the first known copy of +it having been discovered in the library of that Cardinal, in the college +founded by himself. Bibliography has nearly exhausted itself in +disquisitions upon it. But this copy--which is upon paper--is THE COPY _of +all copies_; inasmuch as it contains the memorable inscription, or coeval +ms. memorandum, of its having been illuminated in 1456.[51] In the first +volume, this inscription occurs at the end of the printed text, in three +short lines, but to the best of my recollection, the memorandum resembles +the printed text rather more than the fac-simile of it formerly published +by me. In the second volume, this inscription is in three long lines and is +well enough copied in the M'Carthy catalogue. It may be as well to give you +a transcript of this celebrated memorandum, as it proves unquestionably the +impression to have been executed before any known volume with a printed +date. It is taken from the end of the second volume.[52] + +THE SAME EDITION.--This is a sound and desirable copy, printed UPON VELLUM; +but much inferior in every respect, to another similar copy in the +possession of Messrs. G. and W. Nicol, booksellers to his Majesty.[53] It +measures fifteen inches and three-fourths, by nearly eleven and six +eighths. + +BIBLIA LATINA. _Printed by Pfister, at Bamberg_. Folio. Three volumes. The +rarest of all Latin Bibles, when found in a perfect state. This was Lord +Oxford's copy, and is not to be equalled for its beauty and soundness of +condition. What renders it precious and unique, is an undoubted coeval ms. +date, in red ink, of 1461. Some of the leaves in the first volume are +wholly uncut. It is in handsome, substantial russia binding. + +DURANDI RATIONALE DIV. OFF. _Printed by Fust and Schoiffher_. 1459. Folio. +Here are not fewer than _three_ copies of this early, and much coveted +volume: all of course UPON VELLUM. The tallest of them measures sixteen +inches and a half, by twelve and one eighth; and is in red morocco binding. + +BIBLIA GERMANICA. _Supposed to be printed by Mentelin_. _Without date_. +Folio. If we except the earlier leaves--of which the first is in ms., upon +vellum, and the three succeeding, which are a little tender and soiled-- +this is a very fine copy; so large, as to have many bottom rough margins. +At the end of the second volume an ancient ms. memorandum absurdly assigns +the printing of this edition to Fust, and its date to 1472. The paper of +this impression is certainly not very unlike that of the _Catholicon_ of +1460. + +BIBLIA PAUPERUM. A block-book. This is a cropt, but clean and uncoloured +copy. I suspect, however, that it has been washed in some parts. It is in +red morocco binding. + +BIBLIA POLONICA. 1563. Folio. This is the famous Protestant Polish Bible, +put forth under the patronage of Prince Radziwill; and concerning which a +good deal has been already submitted to the public attention.[54] But the +copy under consideration was a _presentation_ copy from a descendant of +Prince Radziwill--to the public Library of Sedan, to be there deposited +through the intervention of Lord James Russell; as the following +memorandum, in the Prince's own hand writing, attests: "_Hoc sacrarum +Literarum Veteris Nouique Testamenti opus, fidelissima Cura Maiorum meorum +vetustis Typis Polonicis excusum, In Bibliothecam Sedanensem per Nobilem +Virum Dominum Jacobum Russelium, Ill^{mi} Principis Friderici Mauritii +Bullionei ad me exlegatum inferendum committo_. + +_H. Radziwill_." + +It is nevertheless an imperfect copy, as it wants the title-page. M. Van +Praet thinks it otherwise complete, but I suspect that it is not so. + +BIBLIA SCLAVONICA; 1587. Folio. Of this exceedingly scarce volume--which M. +Van Praet placed before me as almost unique--the present is a fine and +desirable copy: in its original binding--with a stamped ornament of the +Crucifixion on each side. One of these ornaments is quite perfect: the +other is somewhat injured. + +BIBLIA BOHEMICA. _Printed in 1488_. Folio. Among the rarest of the +early-printed versions of the sacred text: and this copy happens to be a +most beautiful and desirable one. It is wanting in Lord Spencer's +collection; which renders a minute description of it the more desirable. +The first signature, _a i_, appears to be blank. On _a ii_ begins a +prologue or prefatory proheme, ending on the reverse of _a vj_. It has a +prefix, or title, in fifteen lines, printed in red. The text is uniformly +printed in double columns, in a sharp secretary-gothic character, with ink +sufficiently black, upon paper not remarkably stout, but well manufactured. +There are running titles, throughout. The last eight leaves upon signature +_i_ are printed in red and black lines alternately, and appear to be an +index. The colophon, in nineteen lines, is at the bottom of the second +column, on the reverse of _mm viij_. This book is thought to have been +printed at _Prague_. The present copy is bound in blue morocco. + +NEW TESTAMENT: _in the Dutch and Russian languages_. This volume, which is +considered to be unique, and of which indeed I never saw, or heard of, +another copy, bears the imprint of "_'T Gravenhage--Iohannes Van Duren, +Boecverkoper_. MDCCXVII." Folio. The Dutch text is uniformly printed in +capital letters; the Russian, in what I conceive to be lowercase, and about +two-thirds the size of the Dutch. + +The cause of the scarcity of perfect copies is, that very nearly the whole +of the impression was _lost at sea_. The present copy undoubtedly affords +decided demonstrations of a marine soaking: parts of it being in the most +piteous condition. The first volume contains 255 leaves: the second, 196 +leaves. The copy is yet in boards, in the most tender condition. M. Van +Praet thinks it _just_ possible that there may be a _second_ similar copy. +The _third_ (if there be a second) is known to have perished in the flames +at Moscow. + +THE PENTATEUCH: _in Hebrew_. _Printed in 1491_. _Folio_. A very fine copy, +printed UPON VELLUM. The press work has a rich and black appearance; but +the vellum is rather soiled. One leaf presents us with the recto covered by +ms. of a brown tint--and the reverse covered by printed text. The last page +is certainly ms. This however is a rare and costly tome. + +TRACTS PRINTED BY PFISTER, _at Bamberg_; Folio. This is really a matchless +volume, on the score of rarity and curiosity. It begins with a tract, or +moral treatise, upon death. The wood cuts, five in number, are very large, +filling nearly the whole page. One of them presents us with death upon a +white horse; and the other was immediately recognised by me, as being the +identical subject of which a fac-simile of a portion is given to the public +in Lord Spencer's Catalogue[55]--but which, at that time, I was unable to +appropriate. This tract contains twenty-four leaves, having twenty-eight +lines in a full page. In all probability it was the _first_ of the tracts +printed by Pfister in the present volume. The FOUR HISTORIES, so fully +detailed in the work just referred to, immediately follow. This is of the +date of 1462. Then the BIBLIA PAUPERUM, also fully described in the same +work. This treatise is without date, and contains seventeen leaves; with a +profusion of wood cuts, of which fac-similes have been given by me to the +public. These three copies are in remarkably fine preservation; and this +volume will be always highly treasured in the estimation of the +typographical antiquary. The Latin Bible, by Pfister, has been just +described to you. There was a yet MORE PRECIOUS typographical gem ... in +this very library; by the same printer--with very curious wood cuts,--of +one of which Heineken has indulged us with a fac-simile. I mean the +FABLES ... with the express date of 1461. But recent events have caused it +to be restored to its original quarters.[56] + +LACTANTII INSTITUTIONES, &C. _Printed in the Soubiaco Monastery_. 1465. +Folio. This was Lord Oxford's copy, and may be called almost uncut. You are +to learn, that copies of this beautifully printed book are by no means very +uncommon--although formerly, if I remember rightly, De Bure knew but of one +copy in France--but copies in a fine state, and of such dimensions as are +Mr. Grenville's and the one now before me, must be considered as of +extremely rare occurrence. This copy measures thirteen inches, one-eighth, +and one-sixteenth--by very nearly nine inches one-eighth. You will smile at +this particularity; but depend upon it there are ruler-carrying collectors +who will thank me heartily for such a rigidly minute measurement. + +STS. AUGUSTINUS DE CIVITATE DEI. _Printed in the Soubiaco Monastery_. 1467. +Folio. It always does the heart of a bibliographer good to gaze upon a fine +copy of this resplendent volume. It is truly among the master-pieces of +early printing: but what will be your notions of the copy NOW under +description, when I tell you, not only that it once belonged to our beloved +FRANCIS I., but that, for amplitude and condition, it rivals the copy in +the library at _St. James's Place_? In short, it was precisely between +_this very copy_, and that of my Lord Spencer, that M. Van Praet paused-- +("J'ai balancé" were, I think, the words used to me by that knowing +bibliographer) and pondered and hesitated ... again and again ... ere he +could decide upon which of the two was to be parted with! But, supposing +the size and condition of each to be fairly "balanced" against the other, +M. Van Praet could not, in honour and conscience, surrender the copy which +had been formerly in the library of one of the greatest of the French +monarchs ... and so the spirit of Francis I. rests in peace ... as far as +the retention of this copy may contribute to its repose. It is doubtless +more brilliant and more attractive than Lord Spencer's--which, however, has +no equal on the _other_ side of the channel: but it is more beaten, and I +suspect, somewhat more cropt. I forgot to say, that there are several +capital initials in this copy tolerably well illuminated, apparently of the +time of Francis--who, I am persuaded, loved illuminators of books to his +heart. + +I shall now continue literally as I began:--without any regard to dates, or +places where printed. + +CATHOLICON. _Printed by Gutenburg_: 1460. Folio. 2 vols. This copy is UPON +VELLUM; but yet much inferior to the absolutely unrivalled membranaceous +copy in Mr. Grenville's precious library. This copy measures fifteen inches +one eighth, by eleven inches one eighth. It is bound in red morocco. + +GRAMMATICA RHYTHMICA. _Printed by Fust and Schoiffher_; 1466. Folio. How +you would start back with surprise--peradventure mingled with indignation-- +to be told that, for this very meagre little folio, somewhat cropt, +consisting but of eleven leaves cruelly scribbled upon ... not fewer than +_three thousand three hundred livres_ were given--at the sale of Cardinal +Lomenie's library, about thirty years ago! It is even so. And wherefore? +Because only _one_ other copy of it is known:--and that "other" is luckily +reposing upon the mahogany shelves in St. James's Place. The present copy +measures ten inches seven eighths, by eight inches. + +VOCABULARIUS. _Printed by Bechtermuntze_; 1467. Quarto. EDITIO PRINCEPS-- +one of the rarest books in the world. Indeed I apprehend this copy to be +absolutely UNIQUE. This work is a Latin and German Vocabulary, of which a +good notion may be formed by the account of the _second_ edition of it, in +1469, in a certain descriptive catalogue.[57] To be perfect, there should +be 215 leaves. A full page has thirty-five lines. This copy is in as fine, +clean, and crackling condition, as is that of Lord Spencer of the second +impression. It is eight inches and a half in height, by five inches and +five eighths in width. + +HARTLIEB'S BOOK OF CHIROMANCY. _Supposed to have been printed with wooden +blocks_. Folio. You may remember the amusement which you said was afforded +you by the account of, and the fac-similes from, this very strange and +bizarre production--in the _Bibliographical Decameron_. The copy before me +is much larger and finer than that in Lord Spencer's collection. The figure +of the Doctor and of the Princess Anna are also much clearer in their +respective impressions; and the latter has really no very remote +resemblance to what is given in the _Bibl. Spenceriana_[58] of one of the +Queens of Hungary. If so, perhaps the period of its execution may not be +quite so remote as is generally imagined: for the Hungarian Chronicle, from +which that regal figure was taken, is of the date of 1485. + +HISTORIA BEATÆ VIRGINIS. _Without date_. This is doubtless rather an +extraordinary volume. The text is printed only on one side of the leaf: so +as to leave, alternately, the reverses and rectos blank--facing each other. +But this _alone_ is no proof of its antiquity; for, from the character both +of the wood cuts and the type, I am quite persuaded that this volume could +not have been executed much before the year 1480. It is not improbable that +this book might have been printed at _Ulm_. It is a very beautiful copy, +and bound in blue morocco. + +VIRGILIUS. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz_. 1469. Folio. EDITIO +PRINCEPS. The enormous worth and rarity of this exceedingly precious volume +may be estimated from this very copy having been purchased, at the sale of +the Duke de la Valliere's library, in 1783, for four thousand one hundred +and one livres. The first leaf of the _Bucolics_, of which the margin of +the page is surrounded by an ancient illumination, gives unfortunate +evidence of the binding of Chamot.[59] In other words, this copy, although +in other respects white and sound, has been too much cropt. It measures +eleven inches and six eighths, by nearly seven inches and five eighths. + +VIRGILIUS. _Printed by Vindelin de Spira_. 1470. Here are not fewer than +_two_ delicious copies of this exceedingly rare impression--and the most +delicious happens to be UPON VELLUM. "O rare felicity!... (you exclaim) to +spend so many hours within scarcely more than an arm's length of such +cherished and long-sought after treasures!" But it is true nevertheless. +The vellum copy demands our more immediate attention. It is very rarely, +indeed, that this volume can be obtained in any state, whether upon vellum +or paper;[60] but in the condition in which it is here found, it is a very +precious acquisition. Some few leaves are a little tawny or foxy, and the +top of the very first page makes it manifest that the volume has suffered a +slight degree of amputation. But such defects are only as specks upon the +sun's disk. This copy, bound in old yellow morocco binding of the Gaignat +period, measures very nearly twelve inches and three quarters, by eight +inches and five eighths. + +The SAME EDITION. A copy upon paper: in the most unusual condition. The +pages are numbered with a pen, rather neatly: but these numerals had better +have been away. A frightful (gratuitous) ms. title--copied in a modern +hand, from another of the date of 1474--strikes us; on opening the volume, +in a very disagreeable manner. At top we read "_Ad usum H.D. Henrici +E.C.M.C._" The first page of the text is surrounded by an old illumination: +and the title to the Bucolics is inserted, by the hand, in gold capital +letters. From the impression appearing on the six following leaves, it +should seem that this illuminated border had been stamped, after the book +was bound. The condition of this classical treasure may be pronounced, upon +the whole, to be equally beautiful and desirable. Perhaps there has been +the slightest possible cropping; as the ancient ms. numerals are +occasionally somewhat invisible. However, this is a most lovely book: +measuring thirteen inches and one quarter, in height, by nine inches and +very nearly one quarter in width. + +VIRGILIUS. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz_. 1471. Folio. SECOND ROMAN +EDITION; of yet greater scarcity than the first. This was Politian's own +copy, and is so large as to be almost _uncut_: having the margins filled +with Scholia, and critical observations, in almost the smallest +hand-writing to be met with: supposed to be also from the pen of Politian. +The autograph and subscription of that eminent scholar meet our eye at the +top of the very first fly leaf. + +Of all ancient editions of Virgil, this is probably not only the most +estimable, but is so scarce as to have been, till lately, perfectly +unknown. According to the ancient ms. numerals in this copy, there should +be 225 leaves--to render the volume perfect. In our own country, it is-- +with a sigh I speak it!--only to be found (and _that_, in an _imperfect_ +state) in the library of Dr. Wm. Hunter at Glasgow.[61] This invaluable +volume is preserved in good, sound, characteristic old binding. + +VIRGILIUS. _Printed by Ghering_. 1478. _Quarto_. This impression is perhaps +rather rare than valuable; although I am free to admit it is yet a +desideratum in the Spencerian collection. It commences with an address by +the famous Beroaldus to I. Francus, his pupil, on the reverse of the first +leaf--in which the tutor expresses his admiration of Virgil in the +following manner: "te amantissime mi Johannes hortor, te moneo, et si +pateris oro, ut VIRGILIUM lectites. Virgilio inhies: Illum colas; illum +dies noctesque decates. Ille sit semper in manibus. Et ut præceptoris +fungar officio, illud potissimum tibi pecipia et repetens iterumque +iterumque monebo: ut humanitatis studia ac masuetiores musas avidissime +complectaris." This edition is executed in the printer's second (handsome) +fount of roman type, upon very thick paper.[62] The present copy, although +apparently cropt, is sound and desirable. + +PLINII HIST. NATURALIS. _Printed by J. de Spira_. 1469. Folio. EDITIO +PRINCEPS:--but oh,! marvellous specimen--a copy UPON VELLUM! Fair is the +colour and soft is the texture of this exquisite production--bound in two +volumes. I examined both volumes thoroughly, and am not sure that I +discovered what might be fairly called one discoloured leaf. It is with +equal pain and difficulty that one withdraws one's eyes from such a +beautiful book-gem. This copy measures fifteen inches and a half, by ten +inches and three-eighths. + +The SAME EDITION. Upon paper. A remarkably fine copy: well beaten however-- +and, I should be loth to assert positively, not free from some washing--for +the ancient red numerals, introduced by the pencil of the rubricator, and +designating the several books and chapters, seem to have faded and been +retouched. I observe also, that some of the ancient illuminated letters, +which had probably faded during the process of washing or cleaning, have +been retouched, and even painted afresh--especially in the blue +back-grounds. The first page is prettily illuminated; but there are slight +indications of the worm at the end of the volume. Upon the whole, however, +this is a magnificent book, and inferior only to Lord Spencer's unrivalled +copy--upon paper. It measures sixteen inches and five eighths, by eleven +inches and one sixteenth, and is handsomely bound in red morocco. + +PLINII HISTORIA NATURALIS. _Printed by Jenson_, 1472. Folio. A copy UPON +VELLUM: but, upon the whole, I was disappointed in the size and condition +of this book. The vellum has not had justice done to it in the binding, +being in parts crumpled. The first page is however beautifully illuminated. +This copy measures sixteen inches, by ten and three eighths. + + +PLINII HIST. NAT. Italicè. _Printed by Jenson_. 1476. Folio. A copy UPON +VELLUM. About the first forty leaves are cruelly stained at top. The last +eight or ten leaves are almost of a yellow tint. In other parts, where the +vellum is white, (for it is of a remarkably fine quality) nothing can +exceed the beauty of this book: but it has been, I suspect, very severely +cropt--if an opinion may be formed from its companion upon paper, about to +be described. It is fifteen inches in height, by ten and a quarter in +width. + +THE SAME EDITION. _Printed by the same Printer_. I suspect this to be +perhaps the finest paper copy in the world: as perfect as Lord Spencer's +copy of the first edition of the same author. Every thing breathes of its +pristine condition: the colour and the substance of the paper: the width of +the margin, and the purity of the embellishments:[63] This copy will also +serve to convince the most obstinate, that, when one catches more than a +glimpse of the ms. numerals at top, and ms. signatures at bottom, one has +hopes of possessing the book in its primitive plenitude. It is sixteen +inches and three quarters in height, by nearly eleven inches and a quarter +in width. + +LIVIUS. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz_. 1469. Folio. EDITIO PRINCEPS. +A fine copy, in three thin volumes. The margins, however, are not free from +ms. notes, and there are palpable evidences of a slight truncation. Yet it +is a fine copy: measuring fifteen inches and very nearly three quarters, by +eleven inches one eighth. In red morocco binding. + +LIVIUS. _Printed by Ulric Han_. _Without Date_. Folio. In three thin +volumes. A large copy, but evidently much washed, from the faint appearance +of the marginal notes. Some leaves are very bad--especially the earlier +ones of the preface and the text. The latter, however, have a very pretty +ancient illumination. This copy measures fifteen inches five eighths, by +ten seven eighths.[64] + +LIVIUS. _Printed by Vindelin de Spira_. 1470. Fol. A magnificent copy, in +two volumes: much preferable to either of the preceding. The first page of +text has a fine old illumination. It is clean and sound throughout: +measuring fifteen inches five eighths, by eleven inches--within an eighth. + +THE SAME EDITION. Printed UPON VELLUM. This copy, if I remember rightly, is +considered to be unique.[65] It is that which was formerly preserved in the +public library at Lyons, and had been lent to the late Duke de la Vallière +during his life only--to enrich his book-shelves--having been restored to +its original place of destination upon the death of the Duke. It is both in +an imperfect and lacerated condition: the latter, owing to a cannon ball, +which struck it during the siege of Lyons. The first volume, which begins +abruptly thus: "ex parte altera ripe, &c." is a beautiful book; the vellum +being of a uniform, but rather yellow tint. It measures fourteen inches +five eighths, by nine and six eighths. The second volume makes a +kind-hearted bibliographer shudder. The cannon ball took it obliquely, so +as to leave the first part of the volume less lacerated than the latter. In +the latter part, however, the direction of the destructive weapon went, +capriciously enough, across the page. This second volume yet exhibits a +fine old illumination on the first page. + +LIVIUS. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz_. 1472. Fol. 2 vols. A fine +copy, and larger than either of the preceding: but the beginning of the +first volume and the conclusion of the second are slightly wormed. There is +a duplicate leaf of the beginning of the text, which is rather brown, but +illuminated in the ancient manner. This copy measures fifteen inches and a +half, by eleven one eighth. + +Let me now vary the bibliographical theme, by the mention of a few copies +of works of a miscellaneous but not unamusing character. And first, for a +small cluster of CAXTONS and MACHLINIAS. + +TULLY OF OLD AGE, &C. _Printed by Caxton_, 1481. A cropt and soiled copy; +whereas copies of this Caxtonian production are usually in a clean and +sound condition. The binding is infinitely too gaudy for the state of the +interior. It appears to want the treatise upon Friendship. This book once +belonged to William Burton the Leicestershire historian; as we learn from +this inscription below the colophon: "_Liber Willmi Burton Lindliaci +Leicestrensis socij inter. Templi, ex dono amici mei singularis M^{ri}. +Iohanis Price, socij Interioris. Templi, 28. Jan. 1606. Anno regni regis +Iacobi quarto_." On the reverse is a fac-simile of the same subscription, +beneath an exceedingly well executed head of Burton, in pen and ink. + +ART AND CRAFTE TO KNOW WELL TO DYE. _Printed by Caxton_. 1490. Folio. This +book was sold to the Royal Library of France, many years ago, by Mr. Payne, +for the moderate sum of £10. 10s. It is among the rarest of the volumes +from the press of Caxton. Every leaf of this copy exhibits proof of the +skill and care of Roger Payne; for every leaf is inlaid and mounted, with +four lines of red ink round each page--not perhaps in the very best taste. +The copy is also cramped or choked in the back. + +STATUTES OF RICHARD III. _Printed by Machlinia_. Folio. _Without Date_. A +perfect copy for size and condition; but the binding is much too gay. I +refer you to the Typographical Antiquities[66] for an account of this +edition: + +NOVA STATUTA. _Printed by the Same_. Folio. You must examine the pages last +referred to, for a description of this elaborately executed volume; printed +upon paper of an admirable quality. The present is a sound, clean, and +desirable copy: but why in such gay, red morocco, binding? + +LIBER MODORUM SIGNIFICANDI. _Printed at St. Alban's_; 1480. Quarto. The +only copy of this rare volume I have ever seen. It appears to be bound in +what is called the old Oxford binding, and the text is preceded by a +considerable quantity of old coeval ms. relating to the science of +arithmetic. A full page has thirty-two lines. + +The signatures _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_, _e_, run in eights: _f_ has six leaves. +On the recto of _f_ vj is the colophon: + +This copy had belonged successively to Tutet and Wodhull. A ms. treatise, +in a later hand, concludes the volume. The present is a sound and desirable +copy. + +BOCCACCIO. IL DECAMERONE. _Printed by Valdarfer_. 1471. Folio. This is the +famous edition about which all the Journals of Europe have recently "rung +from side to side." But it wants much in value of THE yet more famous +COPY[67] which was sold at the sale of the Duke of Roxburghe's library; +inasmuch as it is defective in the first leaf of the text, and three leaves +of the table. In the whole, according to the comparatively recent numerals, +there are 265 leaves. This copy measures eleven inches and a half, by seven +inches and seven eighths. It is bound in red morocco, with inside marble +leaves. + +THE SAME WORK. _Printed by P. Adam de Michaelibus_. _Mantua_, 1472. An +edition of almost equal rarity with the preceding; and of which, I suspect, +there is only one perfect copy (at Blenheim) in our own country. + +The table contains seven leaves; and the text, according to the numbers of +this copy, has 256 leaves. A full page has forty-one lines. The present is +a sound, genuine copy; measuring, exclusively of the cover, twelve inches +three eighths, by eight seven eighths. + +BOCCACE. RUINES DES NOBLES HOMMES & FEMMES. _Printed by Colard Mansion, at +Bruges_. 1476. Folio. This edition is printed in double columns, in +Mansion's larger type, precisely similar to what has been published in the +Bibliotheca Spenceriana.[68] The title is in red--with a considerable space +below, before the commencement of the text, as if this vacuum were to be +supplied by the pencil of the illuminator. The present is a remarkably fine +copy. The colophon is in six lines. + +FAIT DE LA GUERRE. _Printed by Colard Mansion_. _Without Date_. Folio. This +rare book is printed in a very different type from that usually known as +the type of Colard Mansion: being smaller and closer--but decidedly gothic. +A full page has thirty-two lines. There are neither numerals, signatures, +nor catchwords. On the recto of the twenty-ninth and last leaf, we read + + _Impressum brugis per Colardum Mansion._ + +The reverse is blank. This is a fine genuine copy, in red morocco binding. + +LASCARIS GRAMMATICA GRÆCA. 1476. Quarto. The first book printed in the +Greek language; and, as such, greatly sought after by the curious. This is +a clean, neat copy, but I suspect a little washed and cropt. Nevertheless, +it is a most desirable volume.[69] + +AULUS GELLIUS. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz_. 1469. Folio. Editio +Princeps. A sound and rather fine copy: almost the whole of the old ms. +numerals at top remaining. It is very slightly wormed at the beginning. +This copy measures thirteen inches by nine. + +CÆSAR. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz_. 1469. Folio. Editio Princeps: +with ms. notes by Victorius. A large sound copy, but the first few leaves +are soiled or rather thumbed. The marginal edges are apparently uncut. It +measures twelve inches seven eighths by nine inches one eighth. + +APULEIUS. _Printed by the Same_. 1469. Folio. Editio Princeps. All these +FIRST EDITIONS are of considerable rarity. The present copy is, upon the +whole, large and sound: though not free from marginal notes and stains. The +first few leaves at top are slightly injured. It measures thirteen inches +one eighth, by nine inches.[70] + +AUSONIUS. 1472. Folio: with all the accompanying pieces.[71] Editio +Princeps; and undoubtedly much rarer than either of the preceding volumes. +Of the present copy, the first few leaves are wormed in the centre, and a +little stained. The first illuminated leaf of the text is stained; so is +the second leaf, not illuminated. In the whole, eighty-six leaves. The +latter leaves are wormed. This copy is evidently cropt. + +CATULLUS, TIBULLUS & PROPERTIUS. 1472. Folio. Editio Princeps. Of equal, if +not greater, rarity than even the Ausonius. This is a sound and very +desirable copy--displaying the ancient ms. signatures. The edges of the +leaves are rather of a foxy tint. After the Catullus, a blank leaf. This +copy measures eleven inches one eighth, by very nearly seven inches five +eighths. + +HOMERI OPERA. Gr. 1488. Folio. Editio Princeps. When you are informed that +this copy is ... UNCUT ... you will necessarily figure to yourself a volume +of magnificent, as well as pristine, dimensions. Yet, without putting on +spectacles, one discovers occasionally a few foxy spots towards the edges; +and the first few leaves are perhaps somewhat tawny. Upon the whole, +however, the condition is wonderful: and I am almost ashamed of myself at +having talked about foxy spots and tawny tints. This copy is bound in red +morocco, in a sensible, unassuming manner. For the comfort of such, whose +copies aspire to the distinction of being _almost_ uncut, I add, that this +volume measures fourteen inches, by about nine inches and five eighths. + +HOMERI OPERA. Gr. 1808. _Printed by Bodoni_. Folio. 2 volumes. This grand +copy is printed UPON VELLUM, and is the presentation copy to Bonaparte--to +whom this edition was dedicated, by Bodoni.[72] Splendid, large, and +beautiful, as is this typographical performance, I must candidly own that +there is something about it which "likes me not." The vellum, however +choice, and culled by Bodoni's most experienced foragers, is, to my eye, +too white--which arises perhaps from the text occupying so comparatively +small a space in the page. Nor is the type pleasing to my taste. It is too +cursive and sparkling; and the upper strokes are uniformly too thin. In +short, the whole has a cold effect. However, this is questionless one of +the most magnificent productions of the modern press. The volumes measure +two feet in length. + +CRONIQUES DE FRANCE. _Printed by Verard_. 1493. Folio. Three vols. A +glorious copy--printed UPON VELLUM! The wood-cuts are coloured. It is bound +in red morocco. + +LAUNCELOT DU LAC. _Printed by Verard_. 1494. Folio. 3 vols. Also UPON +VELLUM. In red morocco binding. There is yet another copy of the same date, +upon vellum, but with different illuminations: equally magnificent and +covetable. In red morocco binding. + +GYRON LE COURTOYS: auecques la devise des armes de tous les cheualiers de +la table ronde. _Printed by Verard_. _Without Date_. Folio. Printed UPON +VELLUM. This was once a fine thumping fellow of a copy!--but it has lost +somewhat of its stature by the knife of the binder--or rather from the +destruction of the Library of St. Germain des Près: whence it was thrown +into the streets, and found next day by M. Van Praet. Many of the books, +from the same library, were thrown into cellars. It is evident, from the +larger illuminations, and especially from the fourth, on the recto of _d +vj_, that this volume has suffered in the process of binding. In old blue +morocco. + +ROMAN DE LA ROSE. _Printed by Verard_. _Without Date_. Small folio. In +double columns, in prose. This superbly bound volume--once the property of +H. Durfé, having his arms in the centre, and corner embellishments, in +metal, on which are the entwined initials T.C.--is but an indifferent copy. +It is printed UPON VELLUM; and has been, as I suspect, rather cruelly cropt +in the binding. Much of the vellum is also crumpled and tawny. + +L'HORLOGE DE SAPIENCE. _Printed by Verard_. 1493. Folio. One of the +loveliest books ever opened, and printed UPON VELLUM. Every thing is here +perfect. The page is finely proportioned, the vellum is exceedingly +beautiful, and the illuminations have a brilliance and delicacy of finish +not usually seen in volumes of this kind. The borders are decorated by the +pencil, and the second may be considered quite perfect of its kind. This +book is bound by Bradel l'Ainé. + +MILLES ET AMYS. _Printed by Verard_. _Without Date_. Folio. A copy UPON +VELLUM. From the same library as the copy of the Roman de la Rose, just +described; and in the same style of binding. It is kept in the same case; +but, although cropt, it is a much finer book. The cuts are coloured, and +the text is printed in double columns. I do not at this present moment +remember to have seen another copy of this edition of the work. + +IEU DES ESCHEZ. _Without name of Printer (but probably by Verard) or Date_. +Folio.[73] This is one of the numerous French originals from which Caxton +printed his well known moralised work, under the title of the _Game and +Play of the Chesse_. This fine copy is printed UPON VELLUM, in a large +gothic letter, in double columns. The type has rather an uneven appearance, +from the thickness of the vellum. There are several large prints, which, in +this copy, are illuminated. + +L'ARBRE DES BATAILLES. _Printed by Verard_. 1493. Folio. Another fine +volume, printed UPON VELLUM. With the exception only of one or two crumpled +or soiled leaves, this copy is as perfect as can be desired. Look from _d +iiij_. to _ej_, for a set of exquisitely printed leaves upon vellum, which +cannot be surpassed. The cuts are here coloured in the usually bold and +brilliant style. + +LA CHASSE ET LE DEPART D'AMOURS. _Printed by Verard_. 1509. Folio. This +volume of interesting old French poetry, UPON VELLUM, which is printed in +double columns, formerly belonged to the abbey of St. Germain des Près--as +an inscription upon the title denotes. The work abounds with very curious, +and very delectable old French poetry. Look, amongst a hundred other +similar things, at the _"Balade ioyeuse des taverniers_," on the reverse +_Q_. i: each stanza ending with + + _Les tauerniers qui brouillent nostre vin._ + +LA NEF DES FOLZ DU MONDE. _Printed by Verard. Without Date_. Folio. A most +magnificent copy; printed UPON VELLUM. Every page is highly illuminated, +with ample margins. What is a little extraordinary, the reverse of the +sixth leaf has ms. text above and below the large illumination; while the +recto of the same leaf has printed text. The present noble volume, which +has the royal arms stamped on the exterior, is one of the few old books +which has not suffered amputation by recent binding. + +THE SAME WORK. _Printed by the Same_. Folio. The poetry is in double +columns, and the cuts are coloured. I apprehend this copy to be much cropt. +It is UPON VELLUM: rather tawny, but upon the whole exceedingly sound and +desirable. + +L'ART DE BIEN MOURIR. _Printed for Verard_. _Without Date_. Folio. A +fragment only of the Work. In large gothic type; double columns: cuts +coloured. There are two cuts of demons torturing people in a cauldron, such +as may be seen in the second volume of my Typographical Antiquities.[74] +Some of these cuts, in turn, may be taken from the older ones in block +books. The present copy is UPON VELLUM, rather tawny: but it is large and +sound. In calf binding. + +PARABOLES [de] MAISTRE ALAIN [De Lille] _Printed by Verard_, 1492. Folio. A +magnificent volume, for size and condition. It is printed in Verard's large +type, in long lines. The illuminations are highly coloured. This copy is +UPON VELLUM.[75] + +Suppose, now, I throw in a little variety from the preceding, by the +mention of a rare _Italian_ book or two? Let me place before you a choice +copy of the + +MONTE SANCTO DI DIO. _Printed in 1477_. Folio. This, you know, is the +volume about which the collectors of early copper-plate engraving are never +thoroughly happy until they possess a perfect copy of it: perhaps a copy of +a more covetable description than that which is now before me. There is a +duplicate of the first cut: of which one impression is faint, and miserably +coloured, and the other is so much cut away to the left, as to deprive the +man, looking up, of his left arm. There is an exceedingly well executed +duplicate of the large Christ, drawn with a pen. In the genuine print there +is too much of the burr. The impression of the Devil eating human beings, +within the lake of fire, is a good bold one. This copy is bound in red +morocco, but in a flaunting style of ornament. + +LA SFORZIADA. _Printed in 1480_. Folio. It is just possible you may not +have forgotten the description of a copy of this work--like the present, +struck off UPON VELLUM--which appears in the _Bibliographical +Decameron_.[76] That copy, you may remember, adorns the choice collection +of our friend George Hibbert, Esq.[77] The book before me is doubtless a +most exquisite one; and the copy is of large dimensions. The illuminated +first page very strongly resembles that in the copy just mentioned. The +portraits appear to be the same: but the Cardinal is differently habited, +and his phisiognomical expression is less characteristic here than in the +same portrait in Mr. Hibbert's copy. The head of Duke Sforza, his brother, +seems to be about the same. + +The lower compartment of this splendidly illuminated page differs +materially from that of Mr. Hibbert's copy. There are two figures kneeling, +apparently portraits; with the sea in the distance. The figure of St. Louis +appears in the horizon--very curious. To the right, there are rabbits +within an enclosure, and human beings growing into trees. The touch and +style of the whole are precisely similar to what we observe in the other +copy so frequently mentioned. The capital initials are also very similar. +It is a pity that, during the binding, (which is in red morocco) the vellum +has been so very much crumpled. This copy measures thirteen inches and +seven eighths, by nine inches and three eighths. + +I must now lay before you a few more Classics, and conclude the whole with +miscellaneous articles. + +TERENTIUS. _Printed by Ulric Han_. Folio. _Without date_. In all +probability the first edition of the author by Ulric Han, and perhaps the +second in chronological order; that of Mentelin being considered the first. +It is printed in Ulric Han's larger roman type. This may be considered a +fine genuine copy--in old French binding, with the royal arms. + +ARISTOTELIS OPERA. _Printed by Aldus_. 1495, &c. 6 vols. Would you believe +it--here are absolutely TWO copies of this glorious effort of the Aldine +Press, printed UPON VELLUM!? One copy belonged to the famous _Henri II. and +Diane de Poictiers_, and is about an eighth of an inch taller and wider +than the other; but the other has not met with fair play, from the +unskilful manner in which it has been bound--in red morocco. Perhaps the +interior of this second copy may be preferred to that of Henri II. The +illuminations are ancient, and elegantly executed, and the vellum seems +equally white and beautiful. Probably the tone of the vellum in the other +copy may be a _little_ more sombre, but there reigns throughout it such a +sober, uniform, mellow and genuine air--that, brilliant and captivating as +may be the red morocco copy--_he_ ought to think more than _once_ or +_twice_ who should give it the preference. The arms of the morocco copy, in +the first page of the Life of Aristotle, from Diogenes Laertius, have been +cut out. This copy came from the monastery of St. Salvador; and the +original, roughly stamped, edges of the leaves are judiciously preserved in +the binding. Both copies have the _first_ volume upon _paper_. Indeed it +seems now clearly ascertained that it was never printed upon vellum.[78] +The copy of Henri II. measures twelve inches and a quarter, by eight and an +eighth. + +PLUTARCHI OPUSCULA MORALIA. _Printed by Aldus_. 1509. Folio. 2 vols. +Another, delicious MEMBRANACEOUS treasure from the fine library of Henri +II. and Diane de Poictiers; in the good old original coverture, besprinkled +with interlaced D's and H's. It is in truth a lovely book--measuring ten +inches and five eighths, by seven inches and three eighths; but I suspect a +little cropt. Some of the vellum is also rather tawny--especially the first +and second leaves, and the first page of the text of Plutarch. These +volumes reminded me of the first Aldine Plato, also UPON VELLUM, in the +library of Dr. W. Hunter; but I question if the Plato be _quite_ so +beautiful a production. + +EUSTATHIUS IN HOMERUM. 1542. Folio. 4 vols. Printed UPON VELLUM--and +probably unique. A set of matchless volumes--yet has the binder done them +great injustice, by the manner in which the backs are cramped or choked. +The exteriors, in blazing red morocco, are not in the very best taste. A +good deal of the vellum is also of too yellow a tint, but it is of a most +delicate quality. + +ARISTOTELIS ETHICA NICHOMACHEA. Gr. This volume forms a part only of the +first Aldine edition of the Nichomachean ethics of Aristotle. The margins +are plentifully charged with the Scholia of Basil the Great, as we learn +from an original letter of "Constantinus Palæocappa, grecus" to Henry the +Second--whose book it was, and who shewed the high sense he entertained of +the Scholia, by having the volume bound in a style of luxury and splendour +beyond any thing which I remember to have seen--as coming from his library. +The reverse of the first leaf exhibits a beautiful frame work, of silver +ornaments upon a black ground--now faded; with the initials and devices of +Henry and Diane de Poictiers. Their arms and supporters are at top. Within +this frame work is the original and beautifully written letter of +Constantine Palæocappa. On the opposite page the text begins--surrounded by +the same brilliant kind of ornament; having an initial H of extraordinary +beauty. The words, designating the Scholia, are thus: + + [Greek: META SCHOLIÔN BASILEIOU TOU MEGALOU.] + +These Scholia are written in a small, close, and yet free Greek character, +with frequent contractions. Several other pages exhibit the peculiar +devices of Henry and Diana--having silver crescents and arrow-stocked +quivers. This book is bound in boards, and covered with dark green velvet, +now almost torn to threads. In its original condition, it must have been an +equally precious and resplendent tome. It measures twelve inches and a +quarter, by eight inches and three eighths. + +EUCLIDES. _Printed by Ratdolt_. 1482. Folio. A copy UPON VELLUM. The +address of Ratdolt, as it sometimes occurs, is printed in golden letters; +but I was disappointed in the view of this book. Unluckily the first leaf +of the text is ms. but of the time. At the bottom, in an ancient hand, we +read "_Monasterii S. Saluatoris bonon. signatus In Inuentario numero 524._" +It is a large copy, but the vellum is rather tawny. + +PRISCIANUS. _Printed by V. de Spira_. 1470. Folio. First edition, UPON +VELLUM. This is a book, of which, as you may remember, some mention has +been previously made;[79] and I own I was glad to turn over the +membranaceous leaves of a volume which had given rise, at the period of its +acquisition, to a good deal of festive mirth. At the first glance of it, I +recognised the cropping system. The very first page of the text has lost, +if I may so speak, its head and shoulders: nor is such amputation to be +wondered at, when we read, to the left, "_Relié par_ DEROME dit le Jeune." +Would you believe it--nearly one half of the illumination, at top, has been +sliced away? The vellum is beautifully delicate, but unluckily not +uniformly white. Slight, but melancholy, indications of the worm are +visible at the beginning--which do not, however, penetrate a great way. +Yet, towards the end, the ravages of this book-devourer are renewed: and +the six last leaves exhibit most terrific evidences of his power. This +volume is bound in gay green morocco--with water-tabby pink lining. + +BUDÆUS. COMMENT. GR. LING. 1529. Folio. Francis the First's own copy--and +UPON VELLUM! You may remember that this book was slightly alluded to at the +commencement of a preceding letter. It is indeed a perfect gem, and does +one's heart good to look at it. Budæus was the tutor of Francis, and I +warrant that he selected the very leaves, of which this copy is composed, +for his gallant pupil. Old Ascensius was the printer: which completes the +illustrious trio. The illuminations, upon the rectos of the first and +second leaves, are as beautiful as they are sound. Upon the whole, this +book may fairly rank with any volume in either of the vellum sets of the +Aldine Aristotle. It is bound in red morocco; a little too gaudily. + +CICERONIS ORATIONES. _Printed by Valdarfer_. 1471: Folio. Still revelling +among VELLUM copies of the early classics. This is a fine book, but it is +unluckily imperfect. I should say that it was of large and genuine +dimensions, did not a little close cropping upon the first illuminated page +tell a different tale. It measures twelve inches and six eighths, by eight +inches and a half. Upon the whole, though there be a few uncomfortably +looking perforations of the worm, this is a very charming copy. Its +imperfections do not consist of more than the deficiency of one leaf, which +contains the table. + +OVIDII OPERA OMNIA. _Printed by Azoguidi_. 1471. Folio. 3 vols. The +supposed FIRST EDITION, and perhaps (when complete)[80] the rarest Editio +Princeps in existence. The copy before me partakes of the imperfection of +almost every thing earthly. It wants two leaves: but it is a magnificent, +and I should think unrivalled, copy--bating such imperfection. It measures +very nearly thirteen inches and a quarter, by little more than eight inches +three quarters. It is bound in red morocco. + +ÆSOPUS. Latinè. _Printed by Dom. de Vivaldis, &c_. 1481. Folio. A most +singular volume--in hexameter and pentameter, verses. To every fable is a +wood cut, quite in the ballad style of execution, with a back-ground like +coarse mosaic work. The text is printed in a large clumsy gothic letter. +The present is a sound copy, but not free from stain. Bound in blue +morocco. + +ÆSOPUS. Italicè. _Edited by Tuppi_. 1485. Folio. A well known and highly +coveted edition: but copies are very rare, especially when of goodly +dimensions. This is a large and beautiful book; although I observe that the +border, on the right margin of the first leaf, is somewhat cut away. The +graphic art in this volume has a very imposing appearance. + +---- Germanicè. _Without Date or Name of Printer_. Folio. This edition is +printed in a fine large open gothic type. There is the usual whole length +cut of Æsop. The other cuts are spirited, after the fashion of those in +Boccacio De Malis Mulier. Illust.--printed by John Zeiner at Ulm in 1473. +The present is a fine, sound copy: in red morocco binding. + +ÆSOPUS. Germanicè. _Without Date, &c_. Folio. This impression, which, like +the preceding, is destitute of signatures and catchwords, is printed in a +smaller gothic type. The wood cuts are spirited, with more of shadow. Some +of the initial letters are pretty and curious. Some of the pages (see the +last but fifteen) contain as many as forty-five lines. The present is a +fine, large copy. + +---- Hispanicè. _Printed at Burgos._ 1496. Folio. This is a beautiful and +interesting volume, full of wood cuts. The title is within a broad bold +border, thus: "_Libro del asopo famoso fabulador historiado en romace_." +On the reverse is the usual large wood cut of Æsop, but his mouth is +terribly diminished in size. The leaves are numbered in large roman +numerals. A fine clean copy, in blue morocco binding. + +And now, my dear friend, let us both breathe a little, by way of cessation +from labour: yourself from reading, and your correspondent from the +exercise of his pen. I own that I am fairly tired ... but in a few days I +shall resume the BOOK THEME with as much ardour as heretofore. + + +[43] In his meditated Catalogue raisonné of the books PRINTED UPON VELLUM + in the Royal Library. [This Catalogue is now printed, in 8vo. 5 vols. + 1822. There are copies on LARGE PAPER. It is a work in all respects + worthy of the high reputation of its author. A _Supplement_ to it--of + books printed UPON VELLUM in _other_ public, and many distinguished + _private_ libraries, appeared in 1824, 8vo. 3 vols.--with two + additional volumes in 1828. These volumes are the joy of the heart of + a thorough bred Bibliographer.] + +[44] The measurement is necessarily confined to the leaves--_exclusively_ + of the binding. + +[45] See the Art. "_Roman de Jason_" + +[46] [There are, now, ten known _perfect_ copies of this book, of + which six are in England. M. Renouard, in his recent edition of the + _Annals of the Aldine Press_, vol. i. p. 36, has been copious and + exact.] + +[47] [Since bound in blue morocco by Thouvenin.] + +[48] [This anecdote, in the preceding Edition of the Tour, was told, + inaccurately, as belonging to the Caxton's edition of the _Recueil + des Hist. de Troye_: see p. 102 ante. I thank M. Crapelet for the + correction.] + +[49] _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. i. p. 107, &c. + +[50] [The finest copy in the world of the second edition, as to amplitude, + is, I believe, that in the Bodleian library at Oxford. A very singular + piece of good fortune has now made it PERFECT. It was procured by + Messrs. Payne and Foss of M. Artaria at Manheim.] + +[51] Nine years ago I obtained a fac-simile of this memorandum; and + published an Essay upon the antiquity of the date of the above Bible, + in the _Classical Journal_, vol. iv. p. 471-484. of Mr. J.A. Valpy. + But latterly a more complete fac-simile of it appeared in the + Catalogue of Count M'Carthy's books. + +[52] "_Iste liber illuminatus, ligatus & completus est per Henricum + Cremer vicariu ecclesie sancti Stephani Maguntini sub anno dni + Millesimo quatringentesimo quinquagesimo sexto, festo Assumptionis + gloriose virginis Marie. Deo gracias. Alleluja_." + +[53] [This copy having one leaf of MS.--but executed with such + extraordinary accuracy as almost to deceive the most experienced + eye--was sold in 1827, by public auction, for 504_l_. and is now + in the collection of Henry Perkins, Esq.] + +[54] _Bibl. Spenceriana_; vol. i. p. 85-89. + +[55] _Bibl. Spenceriana_; vol. i. p. 103-4; where there is also an + account of the book itself--from the description of Camus. The work is + entitled by Camus, The ALLEGORY OF DEATH. + +[56] This subject is briefly noticed in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, + vol. i. 371; and the book itself is somewhat particularly described + there. I think I remember Lord Spencer to have once observed, that + more than a slight hope was held out to him, by the late Duke of + Brunswick, of obtaining this typographical treasure. This was before + the French over-ran Prussia. + +[57] See _Bibl. Spenceriana_; vol. iii. p. 129, vol. iv. p. 500. + +[58] Vol. iii. p. 484. + +[59] [I had said "De Rome"--incorrectly--in the previous edition. "M. + Dibdin poursuit partout d'un trait vengeur le coupable Derome: mais + ici c'est au relieur CHAMOT qu'il doit l'addresser." CRAPELET; vol. + iii. p. 268.] + +[60] [The very sound copy of it, upon paper, belonging to the late Sir M.M. + Sykes, Bart. was sold at the sale of his library for 100 guineas.] + +[61] That sigh has at length ceased to rend my breast. It will be seen, + from the sequel of this Tour, that a good, sound, perfect copy of it, + now adorns the shelves of the _Spencerion Library_. The VIRGILS + indeed, in that library, are perfectly unequalled throughout Europe. + +[62] [There is a fine copy of this very rare edition in the Public Library + at Cambridge.] + +[63] [Fine as is this book, it is yet inferior in _altitude_ to the + copy in the Public Library at Cambridge.] + +[64] [There was another copy of this edition, free from the foregoing + objections, which had escaped me. This omission frets M. Crapelet + exceedingly; but I can assure him that it was unintentional; and that + I have a far greater pleasure in describing _fine_, than + _ordinary_, copies--be they WHOSE they may.] + +[65] [Not so. There was another copy upon vellum, in the library of Count + Melzi, which is now in that of G.H. Standish, Esq. I _know_ that + 500 guineas were once offered for this most extraordinary copy, bound + in 3 volumes in foreign coarse vellum.] + +[66] Vol. ii. p. 11: or to the _Bibliotheca Spenceriana_; vol. iv. p. + 385. + +[67] Now in Lord Spencer's Collection. + +[68] Vol. i. p. 281-2. + +[69] [To the best of my recollection and belief, the finest copy of this + most estimable book, is that in the Library of the Rt. Hon. Thomas + Grenville.] + +[70] [The finest copy of this valuable edition, which I ever saw, is that + in the Public Library at Cambridge.] + +[71] _See Bibl. Spenceriana_; vol. i. page 272. + +[72] [I had called it a UNIQUE copy; but M. Crapelet says, that there was a + second similar copy, offered to the late Eugene Beauharnais.] + +[73] [It is the Edition of Verard, of the date of 1504. The copy looks as + if it had neither Printer's name or date, because the last lines of + the colophon have been defaced. See _Cat. des Livr. Iniprim. sur Vèlin + de la Bibl. du Roi_. vol. iii. p. 35. CRAPELET.] + +[74] At page 599, &c. + +[75] [See _Cat. des Livr. sur Vélin_, vol. iv. No. 236.] + +[76] Vol. iii. p. 176. + +[77] [Mr. Hibbert's beautiful copy, above referred to, is about to be sold + at the sale of his library, in the ensuing Spring; and is fully + described in the Catalogue of that Library, at p. 414: But the + fac-simile portrait of Francis Sforza, prefixed to the Catalogue, + wants, I suspect, the high finished brilliancy, or force, of the + original.] + +[78] [Not so: see the _Introduction to the Classics_, vol. 1. p. 313. edit. + 1827 The _only known_ copy of the first volume, UPON VELLUM, is that + in the Library of New College, Oxford.] + +[79] See the _Bibliographical Decameron_; vol. iii. p. 165. + +[80] [The only ENTIRELY PERFECT copy in Europe, to my knowledge, is that in + the library of the Right Hon. Thomas Grenville.] + + + + +_LETTER VI._ + +CONCLUSION OF THE ACCOUNT OF THE ROYAL LIBRARY. THE LIBRARY OF THE ARSENAL. + + +My last letter left me on the first floor of the Royal Library. I am now +about to descend, and to take you with me to the ground floor--where, as +you may remember I formerly remarked, are deposited the _Aldine Vellums_ +and _Large Papers_, and choice and curious copies from the libraries of +_Grolier, Diane de Poictiers_, and _de Thou_. The banquet is equally +delicious of its kind, although the dishes are of a date somewhat more +remote from the time of Apicius. + +Corresponding with the almost interminable suite of book-rooms above, is a +similar suite below stairs: but the general appearance of the latter is +comparatively cold, desolate, and sombre. The light comes in, to the right, +less abundantly; and, in the first two rooms, the garniture of the volumes +is less brilliant and attractive. In short, these first two lower rooms may +be considered rather as the depot for the cataloguing and forwarding of all +modern books recently purchased. Let me now conduct you to the _third room_ +in this lower suite, which may probably have a more decided claim upon your +attention. Here are deposited, as I just observed, the VELLUM ALDUSES and +other curious and choice old printed volumes. I will first mention nearly +the whole of the former. + +HOMERI OPERA. Gr. _Printed by Aldus. Without Date_. 8vo. 2 vols. A white +and beautiful copy--with large, and genuine margins--printed UPON VELLUM. +In its original binding, with the ornaments tolerably entire:--and what +binding should this be, but that of Henry the Second and Diane de +Poictiers? Let me just notice that this copy measures six inches and a +half, by three inches and six eighths. + +EURIPIDIS OPERA. Gr. 1503. 8vo. 2 vols. A fair and desirable copy UPON +VELLUM; but a little objectionable, as being ruled with red lines rather +unskilfully. It is somewhat coarsely bound in red morocco, and preserved in +a case. This vellum treasure is among the desiderata of Earl Spencer's +library; and I sincerely wish his Lordship no worse luck than the +possession of a copy like that before me.[81] + +HECUBA, ET IPHIGENIA IN AULIDE. Gr. and Lat. 1507. 8vo. A very rare book, +and quite perfect, as far as it goes. This copy, also UPON VELLUM, is much +taller than the preceding of the entire works of Euripides; but the vellum +is not of so white a tint. + +ANTHOLOGIA GRÆCA. Gr. 1503. 8vo. A very fine genuine copy, upon excellent +VELLUM. I suspect this copy to be a little broader, but by no means taller, +than a similar copy in Lord Spencer's collection. + +HORATIUS. 1501. 8vo. UPON VELLUM: a good, sound copy; although inferior to +Lord Spencer's. + +MARTIALIS. 1502. 8vo. Would you believe it?--here are _two_ copies UPON +VELLUM, and _both_ originally belonged to Grolier. They are differently +illuminated, but the tallest--measuring six inches three eighths, by three +inches six eighths--is the whitest, and the preferable copy, +notwithstanding one may discern the effects of the nibbling of a worm at +the bottom corner. It is, however, a beautiful book, in every respect. The +initial letters are gold. In the other copy there are the arms of Grolier, +with a pretty illumination in the first page of the text. It is also a +sound copy. + +LUCRETIUS. 1515. 8vo. This copy, UPON VELLUM, is considered to be unique. +It is fair, sound, and in all respects desirable. + +CICERO DE OFFICIIS. _Without Date_. 8vo. This is but a moderate specimen of +the Aldine VELLUM, if it be not a counterfeit--which I suspect.[82] + +CICERONIS ORATIONES. 1519. 8vo. UPON VELLUM. Only the first volume, which +however is quite perfect and desirable--measuring six inches and a quarter, +by very nearly four inches. But prepare for an account of a perfect, and +still more magnificent, vellum copy of the Orations of Cicero--when I +introduce you to the _Library of St. Geneviève_. + +HIST. AUGUST. SCRIPTORES. 1521. 8vo. 2 vols. A sound and fair copy--of +course UPON VELLUM--but too much cropt in the binding. The foregoing are +all the _Aldine, Greek and Latin Classics_, printed UPON VELLUM, which the +liberal kindness of M. Van Praet enabled me to lay my hands upon. But here +follows another membranaceous gem of the Aldine Family. + +PETRARCHA. 1501. 8vo. A beautiful, white copy, measuring six inches and a +half, by three and three quarters. It is, however, somewhat choked in the +binding, (in blue morocco) as too many of Bozerian's performances usually +are.[83] Close to this book is the Giunta reprint of 1515--ALSO UPON +VELLUM: but of a foxy and unpleasing tint. Now for a few LARGE PAPER +ALDUSES--of a variety of forms and of characters. But I must premise that +the ensuing list of those upon vellum, is very far indeed from being +complete. + +HORÆ. Gr. 1497. 12mo. A beautiful copy, among the very rarest of books +which have issued from the Aldine press. Here is also _one_ volume of the +Aldine ARISTOTLE, upon _large paper_: and only one. Did the _remaining_ +volumes ever so exist? I should presume they did. + +BIBLIA GRÆCA. 1518. Folio. Upon _thick paper_. Francis the First's own +copy. A glorious and perhaps matchless copy. Yet it is rebacked, in modern +binding, in a manner ... almost shameful! + +PLAUTUS. 1522. Small quarto. A very fine copy; in all appearance large +paper, and formerly belonging to Grolier. + +AUSONIUS. 1517. 8vo. Large paper; very fine; and belonging to the same. + +VALERIUS MAXIMUS. 1534. 8vo. The same--in _all_ respects. + +PRISCIANUS. 1527. 8vo. Every characteristic before mentioned. + +SANNAZARII ARCADIA. _Ital_. 1514. 8vo. The same. + +---- _De Partu Virginis_. 1533. 8vo. An oblong, large paper Grolier, like +most of the preceding. + +ISOCRATES. Gr. 1534. Folio. EUSTRATIUS IN ARISTOT. Gr. 1536. Both upon +_large paper_, of the largest possible dimensions, and in the finest +possible condition; add to which--rich and rare old binding! Both these +books, upon large paper, are wanting in Lord Spencer's collection; but +then, as a pretty stiff set-off, his Lordship has the THEMISTIUS of 1534-- +which, for size and condition, may challenge either of the preceding--and +which is here wanting. + +GALENUS. 1525. Gr. Folio. 5 vols. A matchless set, upon _large paper_. The +binding claims as much attention, before you open the volumes, as does a +finely-proportioned Greek portico--ere you enter the temple or the mansion. +The foregoing are all, doubtless, equally splendid and uncommon specimens +of the beauty and magnificence of the press of the _Alduses_: and they are +also, with very few exceptions, as intrinsically valuable as they are fine. +I shall conclude my survey of these lower-book-regions by noticing a few +more uncommon books of their kind. + +CATHARIN DE SIENA. 1500. Folio. This volume is also a peculiarity in the +Aldine department. It is, in the first place, a very fine copy--and +formerly belonged to Anne of Brittany. In the second place, it has a +wood-cut prefixed, and several introductory pieces, which, if I remember +rightly, do not belong to Lord Spencer's copy of the same edition. + +ISOCRATES. Gr. _Printed at Milan_. 1493. Folio. What is somewhat singular, +there is another copy of this book which has a title and imprint of the +date of 1535 or 1524; in which the old Greek character of the body of the +work is rather successfully imitated.[84] + +BIBLIA POLYGLOTTA COMPLUTENSIA. 1516-22. Fol. 6 vols. I doubt exceedingly +whether this be not the largest and finest copy in existence. It may +possibly be even _large paper_--but certainly, if otherwise, it is among +the most ample and beautiful. The colour, throughout, is white and uniform; +which is not the usual characteristic of copies of this work. It measures +fourteen inches and three quarters in height, and belonged originally to +Henry II. and Diane de Poictiers. It wanted only _this_ to render it +unrivalled; and it now undoubtedly _is_ so. + +TESTAMENTUM NOVUM. Gr. _Printed by R. Stephen_. 1550. Folio. Another +treasure from the same richly-fraught collection. It is quite a perfect +copy; but some of the silver ornaments of the sides have been taken off. +Let me now place before you a few more testimonies of the splendour of that +library, which was originally the chief ornament of the _Chateau +d'Anet_,[85] and not of the Louvre. + +HERODOTUS. Gr. _Printed by Aldus_, 1502. Folio. I had long supposed Lord +Spencer's copy--like this, upon LARGE PAPER--to be the finest first Aldine +Herodotus in existence: but the first glimpse only of the present served to +dissipate that belief. What must repeated glimpses have produced? + +LUCIANUS. Gr. _Printed by the Same_. 1503. Folio. Equally beautiful--large, +white, and crackling--with the preceding. + +SUIDAS. Gr. _Printed by the Same_. 1503. Folio. The same praise belongs to +this copy; which, like its precursors, is clothed in the first mellow and +picturesque binding. + +EUSTATHIUS IN HOMERUM. 1542. Folio. 3 vols. A noble copy--eclipsed perhaps, +in amplitude only, by that in the collection of Mr. Grenville. + +DION CASSIUS. Gr. 1548. Folio. APPIANUS. Gr. 1551. Folio. DIONYSIUS +HALICARNASSENSIS. 1546. Folio. These exquisitely well printed volumes are +from the press of the Stephens. The present copies, clothed in their +peculiar bindings, are perhaps the most beautiful that exist. They are from +the library of the Chateau d'Anet. Let it not be henceforth said that the +taste of Henri II. was not _well_ directed by the influence of Diane de +Poictiers, in the choice of BOOKS. + +CICERONIS OPERA OMNIA. _Printed by the Giunti_, 1534. Folio. 4 vols. I +introduce this copy to your notice, because there are four leaves of +_Various Readings_, at the end of the fourth volume, which M. Van Praet +said he had never observed, nor heard of, in any other copy.[86] I think +also that there are two volumes of the same edition upon LARGE PAPER:--the +rest being deficient. Does any perfect copy, of this kind, exist? + +POETÆ GRÆCI HEROICI. 1556. _Printed by H. Stephen._ Folio. De Thou's own +copy--and, upon the whole, perhaps MATCHLESS. The sight of this splendid +volume would repay the toil of a pilgrimage of some fourscore miles, over +Lapland snows. There is another fine copy of the same edition, which +belonged to Diana and her royal slave; but it is much inferior to De +Thou's. + +The frequent mention of DE THOU reminds me of the extraordinary number of +copies, which came from his library, and which are placed upon the shelves +of the _fourth_ or following room. Perhaps no other library can boast of +such a numerous collection of similar copies. It was, while gazing upon +these interesting volumes along with M. Van Praet, that the latter told me +he remembered seeing the ENTIRE LIBRARY of De Thou--before it was dispersed +by the sale of the collection of the Prince de Soubise in 1788--in which it +had been wholly embodied, partly by descent, and partly by purchase. And +now farewell ... to the BIBLIOTHÈQUE DU ROI. We have, I think, tarried in +it a good long time; and recreated ourselves with a profusion of RICH AND +RARE GEMS in the book-way--whether as specimens of the pencil, or of the +press. I can never regret the time so devoted--nor shall ever banish from +my recollection the attention, civility, and kindness which I have +received, from all quarters, in this magnificent library. It remains only +to shake hands with the whole _Corps Bibliographique_, who preside over +these regions of knowledge, and whose names have been so frequently +mentioned--and, making our bow, to walk arm in arm together to the + +LIBRARY OF THE ARSENAL. + +The way thither is very interesting, although not very short. Whether your +hackney coachman take you through the _Marché des Innocents_, or straight +forward, along the banks of the Seine--passing two or three bridges--you +will be almost equally amused. But reflections of a graver cast will arise, +when you call to mind that it was in his way to THIS VERY LIBRARY--to have +a little bibliographical, or rather perhaps political, chat with his +beloved Sully--that Henry IV. fell by the hand of an Assassin.[87] They +shew you, at the further end of the apartments--distinguished by its +ornaments of gilt, and elaborate carvings--the _very boudoir_ ... where +that monarch and his prime minister frequently retired to settle the +affairs of the nation. Certainly, no man of education or of taste can enter +such an apartment without a diversion of some kind being given to the +current of his feelings. I will frankly own that I lost, for one little +minute, the recollection of the hundreds and thousands of volumes-- +including even those which adorn the chamber wherein the head librarian +sits--which I had surveyed in my route thither. However, my present object +must be exclusively confined to an account of a very few choice articles of +these hundreds and thousands of volumes. + +BIBLIA LATINA. _Printed by Fust and Schoiffher_, 1462. 2 vols. There are +not fewer than _three_ copies of this edition, which I shall almost begin +to think must be ranked among books of ordinary occurrence. Of these three, +two are UPON VELLUM, and the third is upon paper. The latter, or paper +copy, is cruelly cropt, and bad in every respect. Of the two upon vellum, +one is in vellum binding, and a fair sound copy; except that it has a few +initials cut out. The other vellum copy, which is bound in red morocco-- +measuring full fifteen inches and a half, by eleven inches and a quarter-- +affords the comfortable evidence of ancient ms. signatures at bottom. There +are doubtless some exceptionable leaves; but, upon the whole, it is a very +sound and desirable copy. It was obtained of the elder M. Brunet, father of +the well-known author of the Manuel du Libraire. M. Brunet senior found it +in the garret of a monastery, of which he had purchased the entire library; +and he sold it to the father of the present Comte d'Artois for six hundred +livres ... only! + +ROMAUNT DE JASON, _Supposed to be printed by Caxton_. Folio. _Without +date_. This is a finer copy than the one in the Royal Library; but it is +imperfect, wanting two leaves. + +Here is a copy of the very rare edition of the MORLINI _Novella Comoediæ et +Fabulæ_, printed in 1520 in 4to.:--also of the _Teatro Jesuitico--impresso +en Coimbra_, 1634, 4to.:--and of the _Missa Latina_, printed by Mylius in +1557, 8vo. which latter is a satire upon the mass, and considered +exceedingly rare. I regretted to observe so very bad a copy of the original +_Giunta_ Edition of the BOCCACCIO of 1527, 4to. + +MISSALE PARISIENSE. 1522. Folio. A copy UPON VELLUM. I do not think it +possible for any library, in any part of the world, to produce a more +lovely volume than that upon which, at this moment, I must be supposed to +be gazing! In the illuminated initial letters, wood-cuts, tone and quality +of the vellum, and extreme skilfulness of the printer--it surely cannot be +surpassed. Nor is the taste of the binding inferior to its interior +condition. It is habited in the richly-starred morocco livery of Claude +d'Urfé: in other words, it came from that distinguished man's library. +Originally it appears to have been in the "_Bibliothèque de l'Eglise à +Paris_." + +_Mozarabic Missal and Breviary_. 1500, 1502. Folio. Original Editions. +These copies are rather cropt, but sound and perfect. + +THE DELPHIN STATIUS. Two copies: of which that in calf is the whitest, and +less beaten: the other is in dark morocco. The Abbé Grosier told me that De +Bure had offered him forty louis for one of them: to which I replied, and +now repeat the question, "where is the use of keeping _two_?" Rely upon it, +that, within a dozen years from hence, it will turn out that these Delphin +Statiuses have never been even _singed_ by a fire![88] I begin to suspect +that this story may be classed in the number of BIBLIOGRAPHICAL DELUSIONS-- +upon which subject our friend * * could publish a most interesting crown +octavo volume: meet garniture for a Bibliomaniac's breakfast table. + +Here is the ALDINE BIBLE of 1518, in Greek, upon _thick paper_, bound in +red morocco. Also a very fine copy of the _Icelandic Bible_ of 1644, folio, +bound in the same manner. Among the religious formularies, I observed a +copy of the _Liturgia Svecanæ Ecclesiæ catliolicæ et orthodoxæ conformis_, +in 1576, folio--which contains only LXXVI leaves, besides the dedication +and preface. It has a wood-cut frontispiece, and the text is printed in a +very large gothic letter. The commentary is in a smaller type. This may be +classed among the rarer books of its kind. But I must not forget a MS. of +_The Hours of St. Louis_--considered as _contemporaneous_. It is a most +beautiful small folio, or rather imperial octavo; and is in every respect +brilliant and precious. The gold, raised greatly beyond what is usually +seen in MSS. of this period, is as entire as it is splendid. The miniature +paintings are all in a charming state of preservation, and few things of +this kind can be considered more interesting. + +This library has been long celebrated for its collection of _French +Topography_ and of early _French_ and _Spanish Romances_; a great portion +of the latter having been obtained at the sale of the Nyon Library. I shall +be forgiven, I trust, if I neglect the former for the latter. Prepare +therefore for a list of some choice articles of this description--in every +respect worthy of conspicuous places in all future _Roxburghe_ and +_Stanley_ collections. The books now about to be described are, I think, +almost all in that apartment which leads immediately into Sully's boudoir. +They are described just as I took them from the shelves. + +RICHARD-SANS PEUR, &c. "_A Paris Par Nicolas et Pierre Bonfons_," &c. +_Without Date_. 4to. It is executed in a small roman type, in double +columns. There is an imposing wood-cut of Richard upon horseback, in the +frontispiece, and a very clumsy one of the same character on the reverse. +The signatures run to E in fours. An excellent copy. + +LE MEME ROMANT. "_Imprime nouuelement a Paris_." At the end, printed by +"_Alain Lotrain et Denis Janot_." 4to. _Without Date_. The title, just +given is printed in a large gothic letter, in red and black lines, +alternately, over a rude-wood cut of Richard upon horseback. The signatures +A, B, C, run in fours: D in eight, and E four. The text is executed in a +small coarse gothic letter, in long lines. The present is a sound good +copy. + +ROBERT LE DYABLE. "La terrible Et merueilleuse vie de Robert Le Dyable iiii +C." 4to. _Without Date_. The preceding is over a large wood-cut of Robert, +with a club in his hand, forming the frontispiece. The signatures run to D, +in fours; with the exception of A, which has eight leaves. The work is +printed in double columns, in a small gothic type. A sound desirable copy. + +SYPPERTS DE VINEUAULX. "Lhystoire plaisante et recreative faisant metion +des prouesses et vaillaces du noble Sypperts de Vineuaulx Et de ses dix +septs filz Nouuellement imprime." At the end: printed for "_Claude veufue +de feu Iehan sainct denys_," 4to. _Without Date_. On the reverse of this +leaf there is a huge figure of a man straddling, holding a spear and +shield, and looking over his left shoulder. I think I have seen this figure +before. This impression is executed in long lines, in a small gothic +letter. A sound copy of a very rare book.[89] + +GUY DE VVARWICH. "Lhystoire de Guy de vvarwich Cheualier dagleterre &c. +4to. _No Date_. The preceding is over a wood-cut of the famous Guy and his +fair Felixe. At bottom, we learn that it is executed in a small gothic +type, in double columns. The colophon is on the reverse of V. six. + +MESSER NOBILE SOCIO. "Le Miserie de li Amanti di Messer Mobile Socio." +Colophon: "_Stampata in Vinegia per Maestro Bernardino de Vitali Veneciano_ +MDXXXIII." 4to. This impression is executed in long lines, in a fair, good, +italic letter. The signatures, from _a_ to _y_ inclusively, run in fours. +The colophon, just given, is on the reverse of _z_ i. Of this romance I +freely avow my total ignorance. + +CASTILLE ET ARTUS D'ALGARBE. 4to. This title is over what may be called +rather a spirited wood-cut. The date below is 1587. It is printed in double +columns, in a small roman type. In the whole, forty-eight leaves. A +desirable copy. + +LA NEF DES DAMES. 4to, _Without Date_. This title is composed of one line, +in large lower-case gothic, in black, (just as we see in some of the title +pages of Gerard de Leeu) with the rest in four lines, in a smaller gothic +letter, printed in red. In this title page is also seen a wood-cut of a +ship, with the virgin and child beneath. + +This book exhibits a fine specimen of rich gothic type, especially in the +larger fount--with which the poetry is printed. There is rather an abundant +sprinkling of wood cuts, with marginal annotations. The greater part of the +work is in prose, in a grave moral strain. The colophon is a recapitulation +of the title, ending thus: "_Imprime a Lyon sur le rosne par Iaques +arnollet_." This is a sound but somewhat soiled copy. In torn parchment +binding. + +NOVELAS FOR MARIA DE ZAYAS, &c. _En Zaragoça, en el Hospital Real_, &c. +_Ano 1637_." 4to. These novels are ten in number; some of them containing +Spanish poetry. An apparently much enlarged edition appeared in 1729. 4to. +"_Corregidas y enmendadas en esta ultima impression_." + +NOVELAS AMOROSAS. _Madrid_, 1624. 4to. Twelve novels, in prose: 192 +leaves. Subjoined in this copy, are the "Heroydas Belicas, y Amoras, &c." +_En Barcelona_, &c. 1622. 4to. The whole of these latter are in three-line +stanzas: 109 leaves. + +SVCESSOS Y PRODIGOS DE AMOR. _En Madrid_. 1626. 4to. 166 leaves. At the +end: "Orfeo, en lengva Castellana. A la decima Mvsa." By the same author: +in four cantos: thirty-one leaves. + +EL CAVALLERO CID. "El Cid rvy Diez de Viuar." + +The preceding title is over a wood-cut of a man on horseback, trampling +upon four human bodies. At bottom: _Impresso con licencia en Salamanca, +Ano de 1627_." 4to.: 103 pages. At the end are, the "_Seys Romances del +Cid Ruy Diaz de Biuar_." The preceding is on A (i). Only four leaves in the +whole; quite perfect, and, as I should apprehend, of considerable rarity. +This slender tract appears to have been printed at _Valladolid por la viuda +de Francisco de Cordoua, Ano de 1627_." 4to. + +FIORIO E BIANCIFIORE. "_Impressa, &c. ne bologna, Delanno del nostro +signore m.cccclxxx. adi. xxiii. di decembre. Laus deo."_ Folio. Doubtless +this must be the _Prima Edizione_ of this long popular romance; and perhaps +the present may be a unique copy of it. Caxton, as you may remember, +published an English prosaïc version of it in the year 1485; and no copy of +_that_ version is known, save the one in the cabinet at St. James's Place. +This edition has only eight leaves, and this copy happens unluckily to be +in a dreadfully shattered and tender state. At the end: + + _Finito e il libra del fidelissimo Amore + Che portorno insieme Fiorio e Biancifiore_ + +Subjoined to the copy just described is another work, thus entitled: + + SECRETO SOLO e in arma ben amaistrato + Sia qualunqua nole essere inamorato. + Got gebe ir eynen guten seligen mogen. + +The preceding, line for line, is printed in a large gothic type: the rest +of the work in a small close gothic letter. Both pieces, together, contain +sixty-three leaves. + +COMMEDIA DE CELESTINA. "_Vendese la presente obra en la ciudad de Anuers_," +&c. 18mo. _Without Date_. I suspect however that this scarce little volume +was _printed_ as well as "_sold_" at Paris. + +MILLES ET AMYS. "_A Rouen chez la Veufue de Louys Costé_." 4to. Without +Date. The frontispiece has a wood-cut of no very extraordinary beauty, and +the whole book exhibits a sort of ballad-style of printing. It is executed +in a roman letter, in double columns. + +OGIER LE DANOIS. "_On les vend a Lyon_, &c." Folio. At the end is the date +of 1525, over the printer's device of a lion couchant, and a heart and +crown upon a shield. It is a small folio, printed in a neat and rather +brilliant gothic type, with several wood-cuts. + +GALIEN ET JAQUELINE. "_Les nobles prouesses et vaillances de Galien +restaure_," &c. 1525, Folio. The preceding is over a large wood-cut of a +man on horseback; and this romance is printed by the same printer, in the +same place, and, as you observe, in the same year--as is that just before +described. + +HUON DE BOURDEAUX. Here are four editions of this Romance:--to which I +suspect fourscore more might be added. The first is printed at _Paris_ for +_Bonfons_, in double columns, black letter, with rude wood-cuts. A fine +copy: from the Colbert Collection. The second edition is of the date of +1586: in long lines, roman letter, approaching the ballad-style of +printing. The third edition is "_A Troyes, Chez Nicolas Oudot_, &c. 1634." +4to. in double columns, small roman letter. No cuts, but on the recto and +reverse of the frontispiece. The fourth edition is also "_A Troyes Chez +Pierre Garnier_, 1726," 4to. in double columns, roman letter. A very +ballad-like production. + +LES QUATRE FILZ AYMON, Two. editions. One. "_à Lyon par Benoist Rigaud_, +1583," 4to. The printing is of the ballad-kind, although there are some +spirited wood-cuts, which have been wretchedly pulled. The generality are +as bad as the type and paper. + +MABRIAN. &c. "_A Troyes, Chez Oudot_, 1625," 4to. A vastly clever wood-cut +frontispiece, but wretched paper and printing. From the _Cat. de Nyon_; no. +8135. + +MORGANT LE GEANT. "_A Troyes, Chez Nicholas Oudot_, 1650, 4to." A pretty +wood-cut frontispiece, and an extraordinary large cut of St. George and the +Dragon on the reverse. There was a previous Edition by the same Printer at +Rouen, in 1618, which contains the second book--wanting in this copy. + +GERARD COMTE DE NEVERS, &C. 1526, 4to. The title is over the arms of +France, and the text is executed in a handsome gothic letter, in long +lines. At the end, it appears to have been printed for _Philip le Noir_. It +is a very small quarto, and the volume is of excessive rarity. The present +is a fine copy, in red morocco binding. + +CRONIQUE DE FLORIMONT, &C. At "_Lyons--par Olivier Arnoullet_," 4to. At the +end is the date of 1529. This impression is executed in a handsome gothic +type, in long lines. + +TROYS FILZ DE ROYS. Printed for "_Nicolas Chrestien--en la Rue neufue +nostre Dame_," &c. Without date, 4to. The frontispiece displays a large +rude wood cut; and the edition is printed in the black letter, in double +columns. All the cuts are coarse. The book, however, is of uncommon +occurrence. + +PARIS ET VIENNE:--"_à Paris, Chez Simon Caluarin rue St. Jacques_." Without +date: in double columns; black letter, coarsely printed. A pretty wood-cut +at the beginning is repeated at the end. This copy is from the Colbert +Library. + +PIERRE DE PROVENCE ET LA BELLE MAGUELONNE. 1490. 4to. The title is over a +large wood-cut of a man and woman, repeated on the reverse of the leaf. The +impression is in black letter, printed in long lines, with rather coarse +wood-cuts. I apprehend this small quarto volume to be of extreme rarity. + +JEHAN DE SAINTRE--"_Paris, pour Jehan Bonfons_," &c. 4to. _Without date_. A +neatly printed book, in double columns, in the gothic character. There is +no cut but in the frontispiece. A ms. note says, "This is the first and +rarest edition, and was once worth twelve louis." The impression is +probably full three centuries old. + +BERINUS ET AYGRES DE LAYMANT. At bottom: sold at "_Paris par Jehan de +Bonfons_, 4to. _No date._ It is in double columns, black letter, with the +device of the printer on the reverse of the last leaf. A rare book. + +JEAN DE PARIS. "Le Romat de Iehan de Paris, &c. _à Paris, par Jehan +Bonfons_, 4to. _Without date_. In black letter, long lines: with rather +pretty wood-cuts. A ms. note at the end says: "Ce roman que jay lu tout +entier est fort singulier et amusant--cest de luy douvient le proverbe +"_train de Jean de Paris_." Cest ici la plus ancienne edition. Elle est +rare." The present is a sound copy. There are some pleasing wood-cuts at +the end. + +CRONIQUE DE CLERIADUS, &C. "_On les vend à Lyon au pres de nostre dame de +confort cheulx Oliuier Arnoullet_. At the end; 1529. 4to. This edition, +which is very scarce, is executed in a handsome gothic type, in long lines. +The present is a cropt but sound copy. + +GUILLAUME DE PALERNE, &C. At bottom--beneath a singular wood-cut of some +wild animal (wolf or fox) running away with a child, and a group of +affrighted people retreating--we read: "_On les vent a Lyon aupres Dame de +Confort chez Oliuier Arnoulle_." At the end is the date of 1552. + +---- Another edition of the same romance, _printed at Rouen, without date, +by the widow of Louis Costé_, 4to. A mere ballad-style of publication: +perhaps not later than 1634.--the date of our wretched and yet most popular +impression of the Knights of the Round Table. + +DAIGREMONT ET VIVIAN. _Printed by Arnoullet, at Lyons_, in 1538, 4to. It is +executed in a handsome gothic letter, in long lines. This copy is bound up +with the _first_ edition of the Cronique de Florimont--for which turn to a +preceding page[90]. In the same volume is a third romance, entitled + +LA BELLE HELAYNE, 1528, 4to.:--_Printed by the same printer_, with a +singular wood-cut frontispiece; in a gothic character not quite so handsome +as in the two preceding pieces. + +JOURDAIN DE BLAVE. _A Paris, par Nicolas Chrestien_," 4to. _Without date_. +Printed in double columns, in a small coarse gothic letter. + +DOOLIN DE MAYENCE. _A Paris--N. Bonfons_. _Without date_, 4to. Probably +towards the end of the sixteenth century; in double columns, in the roman +letter. Here is another edition, _printed at Rouen_, by _Pierre Mullot_; in +roman letter; in double columns. A coarse, wretched performance. + +MEURVIN FILS D'OGER, &C. _A Paris;--Nicolas Bonfons_." 4to. _Without date_. +In the roman letter, in double columns. A fine copy. + +MELUSINE. Evidently by _Philip le Noir_, from his device at the end. It is +executed in a coarse small gothic letter; with a strange, barbarous +frontispiece. Another edition, having a copy of the same frontispiece,-- +"_Nouuellement Imprimee a Troyes par Nicolas Oudot. 1649."_ 4to. Numerous +wood-cuts. In long lines, in the roman letter. + +TREBISOND. At the end: for "_Iehan Trepperel demourat en la rue neufue +nostre dame A lenseigne de lescu de frac_. Without date, 4to. The device +of the printer is at the back of the colophon. This impression is executed +in the black letter, in double columns, with divers wood-cuts. + +HECTOR DE TROYE. The title is over a bold wood-cut frontispiece, and +_Arnoullet_ has the honour of being printer of the volume. It is executed +in the black letter, in long lines. After the colophon, at the end, is a +leaf containing a wood-cut of a man and woman, which I remember to have +seen more than once before. + +And now, methinks, you have had a pretty liberal assortment of ROMANCES +placed before you, and may feel disposed to breathe the open air, and quit +for a while this retired but interesting collection of ancient tomes. Here, +then, let us make a general obeisance and withdraw; especially as the +official announce of "deux heures viennent de sonner" dissipates the charm +of chivalrous fiction, and warns us to shut up our volumes and begone. + + +[81] [The only copy of it in England, UPON VELLUM, is that in the Royal + Library in the British Museum.] + +[82] [It seems that it is a production of the GIUNTI Press. Cat. _des + Livr. &c. sur Vélin_, vol. ii. p. 59.] + +[83] [I learn from M. Crapelet that this book is a _Lyons Counterfeit_ + of the Aldine Press; and that the _genuine_ Aldine volume, upon + vellum, was obtained, after my visit to Paris, from the Macarthy + Collection.] + +[84] [I had blundered sadly, it seems, in the description of this book in + the previous edition of this work: calling it a _Theocritus_, and + saying there was a second copy on _large paper_. M. Crapelet is + copious and emphatic in his detection of this error.] + +[85] [I thank M. Crapelet for the following piece of information--from + whatever source he may have obtained it: "The library of Henri II. and + Diane de Poictiers was sold by public auction in 1724, after the death + of Madame La Princesse Marie de Bourbon, wife of Louis-Joseph, Duc de + Vendome, who became Proprietor of the Chateau d'Anet. The Library, was + composed of a great number of MSS. and Printed Books, exceedingly + precious. The sale catalogue of the Library, which is a small + duodecimo of 50 pages, including the addenda, is become very scarce." + CRAPELET; vol. iii. 347. + + My friend M. GAIL published a very interesting brochure, about ten + years ago, entitled _Lettres Inedites de Henri II. Diane de Poitiers, + Marie Stuart, François, Roi Dauphin &c_. Amongst these letters, there + was only ONE specimen which the author could obtain of the _united_ + scription, or rather signatures, of Henry and Diana. Of these + signatures he has given a fac-simile; for which the Reader, in common + with myself, is here indebted to him. Below this _united_ signature, + is one of Diana HERSELF--from a letter entirely written in her own + hand. It must be confessed that she was no Calligraphist. + + [Autographs: Henri II, Diane de Poitiers] + +[86] [My friend Mr. Drury possessed a similar copy.] + +[87] It may not be generally known that one of the most minute and + interesting accounts of this assassination is given in _Howell's + Familiar Letters_. The author had it from a friend who was an + eye-witness of the transaction. + +[88] As for the "_singeing_."--or the reputed story of the greater + part of them having been _burnt_--my opinion still continues to be as + implied above: I will only now say that FORTUNATE is that _Vendor_ who + can obtain _25l._ for a copy--be that copy brown or fair. + +[89] [My friend, the late Robert Lang, Esq. whose extraordinary Collection + of Romances was sold at the close of the preceding year, often told + me, that THE ABOVE was the _only_ Romance which he wanted to complete + his Collection.] + +[90] Page 164, ante. + + + + +_LETTER VII._ + +LIBRARY OF STE. GENEVIÈVE. THE ABBÉ MERCIER ST. LÉGER. LIBRARY OF THE +MAZARINE COLLEGE, OR INSTITUTE. PRIVATE LIBRARY OF THE KING. MONS. BARBIER, +LIBRARIAN. + + +It is just possible that you may not have forgotten, in a previous letter, +the mention of STE. GENEVIÈVE--situated in the old quarter of Paris, on the +other side of the Seine; and that, in opposition to the _ancient_ place or +church, so called, there was the _new_ Ste. Geneviève--or the Pantheon. My +present business is with the _old_ establishment: or rather with the +LIBRARY, hard by the old church of Ste. Geneviève. Of all interiors of +libraries, this is probably the most beautiful and striking; and it is an +absolute reproach to the taste of antiquarian art at Paris, that so +beautiful an interior has not been adequately represented by the burin. +There is surely spirit and taste enough in this magnificent capital to +prevent such a reproach from being of a much longer continuance. But my +business is with the _original_, and not with any _copy_ of it--however +successful. M. Flocon is the principal librarian, but he is just now from +home[91]. M. Le Chevalier is the next in succession, and is rarely from his +official station. He is a portly gentleman; unaffected, good-natured, and +kind-hearted. He has lived much in England, and speaks our language +fluently: and catching my arm, and leaning upon it, he exclaimed, with a +sort of heart's chuckle--in English, "with all my soul I attend you to the +library." + +On entering that singularly striking interior, he whispered gently in my +ear "you shall be consigned to a clever attendant, who will bring you what +you want, and I must then leave you to your occupations." "You cannot +confer upon me a greater favour," I replied. "Bon, (rejoined he) je vois +bien que vous aimez les livres. A ça, marchons." I was consigned to a +gentleman who sat at the beginning of the left rectangular compartment--for +the library is in the form of a cross--and making my bow to my worthy +conductor, requested he would retire to his own more important concerns. He +shook me by the hand, and added, in English--"Good day, God bless you, +Sir." I was not wanting in returning a similar salutation. + +The LIBRARY OF STE. GENEVIÈVE exhibits a local of a very imposing, as well +as extensive, appearance. From its extreme length,--which cannot be less +than two hundred and thirty feet, as I should conjecture--it looks rather +low. Yet the ceiling being arched, and tolerably well ornamented, the whole +has a very harmonious appearance. In the centre is a cupola: of which the +elder Restout, about ninety years ago, painted the ceiling. They talk much +of this painting, but I was not disposed to look at it a second time. The +charm of the whole arises, first, from the mellow tone of light which is +admitted from the glazed top of this cupola; and, secondly, from the +numerous busts, arranged along the sides, which recal to your remembrance +some of the most illustrious characters of France--for arts, for arms, for +learning, and for public spirit. These busts are at the hither end, as you +enter. Busts of foreigners continue the suite towards the other +extremities. A good deal of white carved ornament presents itself, but not +unpleasantly: the principal ground colour being of a sombre tint, +harmonising with that of the books. The floor is of glazed tile. It was one +of the hottest of days when I first put my foot within this interior; and +my very heart seemed to be refreshed by the coolness--the tranquillity--the +congeniality of character--of every thing around me! In such a place, +"hours" (as Cowper somewhere expresses it) may be "thought down to +moments." A sort of soft, gently-stealing, echo accompanies every tread of +the foot. You long to take your place among the studious, who come every +day to read in the right compartment of the cross; and which compartment +they as regularly _fill_. Meanwhile, scarcely a whisper escapes them. The +whole is, indeed, singularly inviting to contemplation, research, and +instruction. But it was to the left of the cupola--and therefore opposite +the studious corps just mentioned--that M. Le Chevalier consigned me to my +bibliographical attendant. I am ignorant of his name, but cannot be +forgetful of his kind offices. The MS. Catalogue (they have no printed one) +was placed before me, and I was requested to cater for myself. Among the +_Libri Desiderati_ of the fifteenth century, I smiled to observe the +_Naples Horace of_ 1474 ... but you wish to be informed of the _acquired_, +and not of the _desiderated_, treasures. Prepare, therefore, for a treat-- +of its kind. + +LACTANTIUS. _Printed in the Soubiaco Monastery_. 1465. Folio. This was Pope +Pius the Sixth's copy. Indeed the greater number of the more valuable early +books belonged to that amiable Pontiff; upon whom Audiffredi (as you may +well remember) has passed so warm and so well merited an eulogium[92]. The +papal copy, however, has its margins scribbled upon, and is defective in +the leaf which contains the errata. + +AUGUSTINUS DE CIVITATE DEI. _Printed in the same Monastery_. 1467. Folio. +The margins are broad, but occasionally much stained. The copy is also +short. From the same papal collection. + +CICERO DE ORATORE. _Printed in the same Monastery_. _Without Date_. Folio. +A sound copy, but occasionally scribbled upon. The side margins are rather +closely cropt. + +BIBLIA LATINA. 1462. Folio. 2 vols. I saw only the first volume, which +displays a well-proportioned length and breadth of margin. The +illuminations appear to be nearly coeval, and are of a soft and pleasing +style of execution. Yet the margins are rather deformed by the designation +of the chapters, in large roman numerals, of a sprawling character. + +BIBLIA ITALICA. _Kalend. de Octobrio_. 1471. Folio. 2 vols. A perfectly +magnificent copy (measuring sixteen inches three eighths, by ten and six +eighths) of this very rare edition; of which a minute and particular +account will be found in the Catalogue of Earl Spencer's Library.[93] After +a careful inspection--rather than from actual comparison--I incline to +think that these noble volumes came from the press of _Valdarfer_. The copy +under description is bound in brown calf, with red speckled edges to the +leaves. This is a copy of an impression of which the library may justly be +proud. + +BIBLIA POLONICA. 1599. Folio. In style of printing and embellishment like +our Coverdale's Bible of 1535. Whether it be a reprint (which is most +probable) of the famous Polish Bible of 1563, I am unable to ascertain. + +VIRGILIUS. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz_. (1469.) Folio. FIRST +EDITION; of the greatest rarity. Probably this is the finest copy (once +belonging to Pius VI.) which is known to exist; but it must be considered +as imperfect--wanting the Priapeia. And yet it may be doubted whether the +latter were absolutely printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz for their _first_ +edition? This copy, bound in white calf, with the papal arms on the sides, +measures twelves inches and a quarter in length, by eight inches and five +eighths in width: but the state of the illumination, at the beginning of +the Bucolics, shews the volume to have been cropt--however slightly. All +the illuminations are quiet and pretty. Upon the whole, this is a very +precious book; and superior in most respects to the copy in the Royal +Library.[94] + +PLINIUS SENIOR. 1469. Folio. EDITIO PRINCEPS. A copy from the same papal +library; very fine, both as to length and width.--You rarely meet with a +finer copy. _The Jenson edition_ of 1472 is here comparatively much +inferior. + +CICERO. RHETORICA VETUS. _Printed by Jenson_. 1470. Folio. A great +curiosity: inasmuch as it is a copy UPON VELLUM. It has been cruelly cut +down, but the vellum is beautiful. It is also choked in the back, in +binding. From the collection of the same Pope. + +SUETONIUS. _Printed by I.P. de Lignamine_. 1470. Folio. A magnificent copy; +measuring thirteen inches and one eighth in height. The first leaf is, +however, objectionable. From the same collection. + +QUINTILIANUS. INSTITUTIONES. _By the same Printer_. 1470. Folio. This and +the preceding book are FIRST EDITIONS. A copy of equal beauty and equal +size with the Suetonius. From the same Collection. + +PRISCIANUS. _Printed by V. de Spira_. 1470. Folio. First Edition. We have +here a truly delicious copy--UPON VELLUM--and much superior to a similar +copy in the Royal Library[95] I ought slightly to notice that a few of the +leaves, following the date, are tawny, and others mended. Upon the whole, +however, this is a book which rejoices the eye and warms the heart of a +classical bibliographer. It is bound in pale calf, with gilt stamped edges, +and once belonged to the Pontiff from whose library almost every +previously-described volume was obtained. + +DANTE. _Printed by Petrus [Adam de Michaelibus.] Mantua_. 1472. Folio. A +large and fair copy of an exceedingly rare edition. It appears to be quite +perfect. + +BOETIUS. _Printed by Frater Iohannes_ 1474. 4to. It is for the first time +that I open the leaves of this scarce edition. It is printed in a sharp and +rather handsome roman type, and this copy has sixty-three numbered leaves. + +ANTHOLOGIA GRÆCA. 1498. 4to. We have here a most desirable copy--UPON +VELLUM, which is equally soft and white. It has been however peppered a +little by a worm, at the beginning and end; especially at the end. It is +coated in a goodly sort ofGaignat binding. + +CICERONIS OPERA OMNIA. _Milan_. 1498. Folio. 4 vols. This is the finest +copy of this rare set of volumes which it has been my lot yet to examine; +but the dedication of the printer, Minutianus, to I.I. Trivulcius, on the +reverse of the first leaf of the first volume, is unluckily wanting. There +are, who would call this a _large paper_ copy. + +MARSILIUS FICINUS: IN DIONYSIUM AREOPAGITAM. _Printed by Laurentius, the +Son of Franciscus a Venetian; at Florence. Without Date_. Folio. This is +certainly a very beautiful and genuine book, in this particular condition-- +UPON VELLUM--but the small gothic type, in which it is printed, is a good +deal blurred. The binding is in its first state: in a deep red-coloured +leather, over boards. I should apprehend this impression to be chiefly +valuable on the score of rarity and high price, when it is found upon +vellum. + +The foregoing are what I selected from the _Fifteeners_; after running an +attentive eye over the shelves upon which the books, of that description +are placed. In the same case or division where these Fifteeners are lodged, +there happen to be a few _Alduses_, UPON VELLUM--so beautiful, rare, and in +such uncommon condition, that I question whether M. Van Praet doth not +occasionally cast an envious eye upon these membranaceous treasures-- +secretly, and perhaps commendably, wishing that some of them may one day +find their way into the Royal Collection!... You shall judge for yourself. + +HOMERI OPERA. Gr. _Printed by Aldus. Without date_. 12mo. 2 vols. First +Aldine impression; and this copy perhaps yields only to the one in the +Royal Library.[96] These volumes are differently bound; but of the two, +that containing the _Iliad_, gains in length what it loses in breadth. The +vellum is equally soft, white, and well-conditioned; and perhaps, +altogether, the copy is only one little degree inferior to that in the +Royal Library. The Odyssey is bound in old red morocco, with stampt gilt +edges. This copy was purchased from the Salviati Library. + +CICERONIS ORATIONES. _Printed at the Aldine Press_. 1519. 8vo. 3 vols. +Surely this copy is the _ne plus ultra_ of a VELLUM ALDUS! In size, +condition, and colour, nothing can surpass it. When I say this, I am not +unmindful of the Royal copies here, and more particularly of the _Pindar +and Ovid_ in St. James's Place. But, in truth, there reigns throughout the +rectos and reverses of each of these volumes, such a mellow, quiet, and +genuine tone of colour, that the most knowing bibliographer and the most +fastidious Collector cannot fail to express his astonishment on turning +over the leaves. They are bound in old red morocco, with the arms of a +Cardinal on the exterior; and (with the exception of the first volume, +which is some _very_ little shorter) full six inches and a half, by four +inches. Shew me its like if you can! + +I shall mention only three more volumes; but neither of them Aldine; and +then take leave of the library of Ste. Geneviève. + +MISSALE MOZARABICUM. 1500. Folio. A fine copy for size and colour; but +unluckily much wormed at the beginning, though a little less so at the end. +It measures nearly thirteen inches one quarter, by nine three eighths. From +the stamped arms of three stars and three lizards, this copy appears to +have belonged to the _Cardinal Juigné_, Archbishop of Paris; who had a fine +taste for early printed books. + +VITRUVIUS, _Printed by the Giunti_, 1513. 8vo. A delicious copy; upon +white, soft, spotless VELLUM. I question if it be not superior to Mr. +Dent's;[97] as it measures six inches and three-quarters, by four. A cruel +worm, however, has perforated as far as folio 76; leaving one continued +hole behind him. The binding of this exquisite book is as gaudy as it is +vulgar. + +TEWERDANCKHS. _Printed in 1517_. Folio. First Edition. This is doubtless a +fine copy--upon thick, but soft and white, VELLUM. Fortunately the plates +are uncoloured, and the copy is quite complete in the table. It measures +fifteen inches in length, by nine inches three quarters in width. + +Such appeared to me, on a tolerably careful examination of the titles of +the volumes, to be among the chief treasures in the early and more curious +department of books belonging to the STE. GENEVIÈVE LIBRARY. Without doubt, +many more may be added; but I greatly suspect that the learned in +bibliography would have made pretty nearly a similar selection; Frequently, +during the progress of my examinations, I looked out of window upon the +square, or area, below--which was covered at times by numerous little +parties of youths (from the College of Henry IV.) who were partaking of all +manner of amusements, characteristic of their ages and habits. With, and +without, coats--walking, sitting, or running,--there they were! All gay, +all occupied, all happy:--unconscious of the alternate miseries and +luxuries of the _Bibliomania_!--unknowing in the nice distinctions of type +from the presses of _George Laver_, _Schurener de Bopardia_, and _Adam +Rot_: uninitiated in the agonising mysteries of rough edges, large margins, +and original bindings! But ... + + Where ignorance is bliss + 'Tis folly to be wise. + +This is soberly quoted--not meaning thereby to scratch the cuticle, or +ruffle the temper, of a single Roxburgher. And now, my friend, as we are +about to quit this magnificent assemblage of books, I owe it to myself--but +much more to your own inextinguishable love of bibliographical history--to +say "one little word, or two"--ere we quit the threshold--respecting the +Abbé MERCIER SAINT LÉGER ... the head librarian, and great living ornament +of the collection, some fifty years ago. I am enabled to do this with the +greater propriety, as my friend M. Barbier is in possession of a number of +literary anecdotes and notices respecting the Abbé--and has supplied me +with a brochure, by Chardon De La Rochette, which contains a notice of the +life and writings of the character in question. I am sure you will be +interested by the account, limited and partial as it must necessarily be: +especially as I have known those, to whose judgments I always defer with +pleasure and profit, assert, that, of all BIBLIOGRAPHERS, the Abbé Mercier +St. Léger was the FIRST, in eminence, which France possessed, I have said +so myself a hundred times, and I repeat the asseveration. Yet we must not +forget Niceron. + +Mercier Saint Léger was born on the 1st of April, 1734. At fifteen years of +age, he began to consider what line of life he should follow. A love of +knowledge, and a violent passion for study and retirement, inclined him to +enter the congregation of the _Chanoines Réguliers_--distinguished for men +of literature; and, agreeably to form, he went through a course of rhetoric +and philosophy, before he passed into divinity, as a resident in the Abbey +_de Chatrices_ in the diocese of _Chalons sur Marne_. It was there that he +laid the foundation of his future celebrity as a literary bibliographer. He +met there the venerable CAULET, who had voluntarily resigned the bishopric +of Grenoble, to pass the remainder of his days in the abbey in question--of +which he was the titular head--in the midst of books, solitude, and +literary society. Mercier Saint Léger quickly caught the old man's eye, and +entwined himself round his heart. Approaching blindness induced the +ex-bishop to confide the care of his library to St. Léger--who was also +instructed by him in the elements of bibliography and literary history. He +taught him also that love of order and of method which are so +distinguishable in the productions of the pupil. Death, however, in a +little time separated the master from the scholar; and the latter scarcely +ever mentioned the name, or dwelt upon the virtues, of the former, without +emotions which knew of no relief but in a flood of tears. The heart of +Mercier St. Léger was yet more admirable than his head. + +St. Léger, at twenty years of age, returned to Paris. The celebrated Pingré +was chief librarian of the Ste. GENEVIEVE COLLECTION; and St. Léger +attached himself with ardour and affection to the society and instructions +of his Principal. He became joint SECOND LIBRARIAN in 1759; when Pingré, +eminent for astronomy, departing for India to observe the transit of Venus +over the sun's disk, St. Léger was appointed to succeed him as CHIEF--and +kept the place till the year 1772. These twelve years were always +considered by St. Léger as the happiest and most profitable of his life. +During this period he lent a helping hand in abridging the _Journal de +Trevoux_. In September, 1764, Louis XV. laid the foundation-stone, with +great pomp and ceremony, of the new church of Ste. Geneviève. After the +ceremony, he desired to see the library of the old establishment--in which +we have both been so long tarrying. Mercier spread all the more ancient and +curious books upon the table, to catch the eye of the monarch: who, with +sundry Lords of the bed-chamber, and his _own_ librarian BIGNON, examined +them with great attention, and received from Mercier certain information +respecting their relative value, and rarity. Every now and then Louis +turned round, and said to Bignon, "Bignon, have I got that book in my +library?" The royal librarian ... answered not a word--but hiding himself +behind CHOISEUL, the prime minister, seemed to avoid the sight of his +master. Mercier, however, had the courage and honesty to reply, "No, Sire, +that book is _not_ in your library." The king spent about an hour in +examining the books, chatting with the librarian, (Mercier) and informing +himself on those points in which he was ignorant. It was during this +conversation, that the noble spirit of Mercier was manifested. The building +of the library of St. Victor was in a very crazy state: it was necessary to +repair it, but the public treasury could not support that expense. "I will +tell your Majesty, (said Mercier) how this may be managed without costing +you a single crown. The headship of the Abbey of St. Victor is vacant: name +a new Abbot; upon condition, each year, of his ceding a portion of his +revenue to the reparation of the Library." If the king had had one spark of +generous feeling, he would have replied by naming Mercier to the abbey in +question, and by enjoining the strict fulfilment of his own proposition. +But it was not so. Yet the scheme was carried into effect, although others +had the glory of it. However, the king had not forgotten Mercier, nor the +bibliographical lesson which he had received in the library of Ste. +Geneviève. One of these lessons consisted in having the distinctive marks +pointed out of the famous _Bible of Sixtus V_. published in 1590. A short +time after, on returning from mass, along the great gallery of Versailles, +Louis saw the head librarian of Ste. Geneviève among the spectators.. and +turning to his prime minister, exclaimed "Choiseul, how can one distinguish +the _true_ Bible of Sixtus V.?" "Sire, (replied the unsuspecting minister) +I never was acquainted with that book." Then, addressing himself to +Mercier, the king repeated to him--without the least hesitation or +inaccuracy--the lesson which he had learnt in the library of Ste. +Geneviève. There are few stories, I apprehend, which redound so much to +this king's credit. + +Louis gave yet more substantial proofs of his respect for his +bibliographical master, by appointing him, at the age of thirty-two, to the +headship of the abbey of _St. Léger de Soissons_--and hence our hero +derives his name. In 1772 Mercier surrendered the Ste. Geneviève library to +Pingré, on his return from abroad--and in the privacy of his own society, +set about composing his celebrated _Supplément à l'Histoire de l'Imprimerie +par Prosper Marchand_--of which the second edition, in 1775, is not only +more copious but more correct. The Abbé Rive, who loved to fasten his teeth +in every thing that had credit with the world, endeavoured to shake the +reputation of this performance.. but in vain. Mercier now travelled abroad; +was received every where with banqueting and caresses; a distinction due to +his bibliographical merits--and was particularly made welcome by Meerman +and Crevenna. M. Ochéda, Earl Spencer's late librarian--and formerly +librarian to Crevenna--has often told me how pleased he used to be with +Mercier's society and conversation during his visit to Crevenna. On his +return, Mercier continued his work, too long suspended, upon the LATIN +POETS OF THE MIDDLE AGE. His object was, to give a brief biography of each; +an analysis of their works, with little brilliant extracts and piquant +anecdotes; traits of history little known; which, say Chardon De La +Rochette and M. Barbier, (who have read a great part of the original MS.) +"are as amusing as they are instructive." + +But the Revolution was now fast approaching, and the meek spirit of Mercier +could ill sustain the shock of such a frightful calamity. Besides, he loved +his country yet dearer than his books. His property became involved: his +income regularly diminished; and even his privacy was invaded. In 1792 a +decree passed the convention for issuing a "Commission for the examination +of monuments." Mercier was appointed one of the thirty-three members of +which the commission was composed, and the famous Barrère was also of the +number. Barrère, fertile in projects however visionary and destructive, +proposed to Mercier, as a _bright thought_, "to make a short extract from +every book in the national library: to have these extracts superbly printed +by Didot;--and to ... BURN ALL THE BOOKS FROM WHICH THEY WERE TAKEN!" It +never occurred to this revolutionising idiot that there might be a +_thousand_ copies of the _same work_, and that some hundreds of these +copies might be OUT of the national library! Of course, Mercier laughed at +the project, and made the projector ashamed of it.[98] Robespierre, rather +fiend than man, now ruled the destinies of France. On the 7th of July, +1794, Mercier happened to be passing along the streets when he saw +_sixty-seven human beings_ about to undergo the butchery of the GUILLOTINE. +Every avenue was crowded by spectators--who were hurrying towards the +horrid spectacle. Mercier was carried along by the torrent; but, having +just strength enough to raise his head, he looked up ... and beheld his old +and intimate friend the ex-abbé ROGER ... in the number of DEVOTED VICTIMS! +That sight cost him his life. A sudden horror ... followed by alternate +shiverings, and flushings of heat ... immediately seized him. A cold +perspiration hung upon his brow. He was carried into the house of a +stranger. His utterance became feeble and indistinct, and it seemed as if +the hand of death were already upon him. + +Yet he rallied awhile. His friends came to soothe him. Hopes were +entertained of a rapid and perfect recovery. He even made a few little +visits to his friends in the vicinity of Paris. But ... his fine full +figure gradually shrunk: the colour as gradually deserted his cheek--and +his eye sensibly lacked that lustre which it used to shed upon all around. +His limbs became feeble, and his step was both tremulous and slow. He +lingered five years ... and died at ten at night, on the 13th of May 1799, +just upon the completion of his jubilee of his bibliographical toil. What +he left behind, as annotations, both in separate papers, and on the margins +of books, is prodigious. M. Barbier shewed me his projected _third_ edition +of the _Supplément to Marchand_, and a copy of the _Bibliothèque Françoise +of De La Croix du Maine_, &c. covered, from one end to the other, with +marginal notes by him.[99] That amiable biographer also gave me one of his +little bibliographical notices, as a specimen of his hand writing and of +his manner of pursuing his enquiries.[100] + +Such are the feelings, and such the gratifications; connected with a view +of the LIBRARY of STE. GENEVIÈVE. Whenever I visit it, I imagine that the +gentle spirit of MERCIER yet presides there; and that, as it is among the +most ancient, so is it among the most interesting, of BOOK LOCALS in Paris. + +Come away with me, now, to a rival collection of books--in the MAZARINE +COLLEGE, or Institute. Of the magnificence of the exterior of this building +I have made mention in a previous letter. My immediate business is with the +interior; and more especially with that portion of it which relates to +_paper_ and _print_. You are to know, however, that this establishment +contains _two Libraries_; one, peculiar to the Institute, and running at +right angles with the room in which the members of that learned body +assemble: the other, belonging to the College, to the left, on entering the +first square--from the principal front. + +The latter is the _old_ collection, of the time of Cardinal Mazarin, and +with _that_ I begin. It is deposited chiefly on the first floor; in two +rooms running at right angles with each other: the two, about 140 feet +long. These rooms may be considered very lofty; certainly somewhat more +elevated than those in the Royal Library. The gallery is supported by +slender columns, of polished oak, with Corinthian capitals. The general +appearance is airy and imposing. A huge globe, eight feet in diameter, is +in the centre of the angle where the two rooms meet. The students read in +either apartment: and, as usual, the greatest order and silence prevail. +But not a _Fust and Schoiffher_--nor a _Sweynheym and Pannartz_--nor an +_Ulric Han_--in this lower region ... although they say the collection +contains about 90,000 volumes. What therefore is to be done? The attendant +sees your misery, and approaches: "Que desirez vous, Monsieur?" That +question was balm to my agitated spirits. "Are the old and more curious +books deposited here?" "Be seated, Sir. You shall know in an instant." Away +goes this obliging creature, and pulls a bell by the side of a small door. +In a minute, a gentleman, clothed in black--the true bibliographical +attire--descends. The attendant points to me: we approach each other: "A la +bonne heure--je suis charmé...." You will readily guess the remainder. +"Donnez vous la peine de monter." I followed my guide up a small winding +stair-case, and reached the topmost landing place. A succession of small +rooms--(I think _ten_ in number) lined with the _true_ furniture, strikes +my astonished eye, and makes warm my palpitating heart. "This is +charming"--exclaimed I, to my guide, Monsieur Thiebaut--"this is as it +should be." M. Thieubaut bowed graciously. + +The floors are all composed of octagonal, deeply-tinted red, tiles: a +little too highly glazed, as usual; but cool, of a good picturesque tint, +and perfectly harmonising with the backs of the books. The first little +room which you gain, contains a plaster-bust of the late Abbé HOOKE,[101] +who lived sometime in England with the good Cardinal----. His bust faces +another of Palissot. You turn to the right, and obtain the first +foreshortened view of the "ten little chambers" of which I just spoke. I +continued to accompany my guide: when, reaching the _first_ of the last +_three_ rooms, he turned round and bade me remark that these last three +rooms were devoted exclusively to "books printed in the _Fifteenth +Century_: of which they possessed about fifteen hundred." This intelligence +recruited my spirits; and I began to look around with eagerness. But alas! +although the crop was plentiful, a deadly blight had prevailed. In other +words, there was number without choice: quantity rather than quality. Yet I +will not be ill-natured; for, on reaching the third of these rooms, and the +last in the suite, Monsieur Thiebaut placed before me the following select +articles. + +BIBLIA LATINA. _Printed by Fust and Schoiffher: Without Date, but supposed +to be in the year 1455 or 1456_. Folio. 2 vols. For the last dozen years of +my life, I had earnestly desired to see this copy: not because I had heard +much of its beauty, but because it is the _identical_ copy which gave rise +to the calling of this impression the MAZARINE BIBLE.[102] Certainly, all +those copies which I had previously seen--and they cannot be fewer than ten +or twelve--were generally superior; nor must this edition be henceforth +designated as "of the very first degree of rarity." + +BIBLIA LATINA. _Printed by the Same_, 1462. Folio. 2 vols. A fair, sound, +large copy: UPON VELLUM. The date is printed in red, at the end of each +volume--a variety, which is not always observable. This copy is in red +morocco binding. + +BIBLIA ITALICA. _Printed by Vindelin de Spira, Kalend. August. 1471_. +Folio. 2 vols. A fine copy of an extremely rare edition; perhaps the rarest +of all those of the early Italian versions of the Bible. It is in calf +binding, but cropt a little. + +LEGENDA SANCTORUM. Italicè. "_Impresse per Maestro Nicolo ienson, &c. +Without Date_. Folio. The author of the version is _Manerbi_: and the +present is the _first impression_ of it. It is executed in double columns, +in the usually delicate style of printing by Jenson: and this volume is +doubtless among the rarer productions of the printer. + +SERVIUS IN VIRGILIUM. _Printed by Ulric Han. Without Date_. Folio. This is +a volume of the most unquestionable rarity; and _such_ a copy of it as that +now before me, is of most uncommon occurrence.[103] Can this be surprising, +when I tell you that it once belonged to Henri II. and Diane de Poictiers! +The leaves absolutely talk to you, as you turn them over. Yet why do I find +it in my heart to tell you that, towards the middle, many leaves are +stained at the top of the right margin?! There are also two worm holes +towards the end. But what then? The sun has its spots. + +PLAUTUS. 1472. Folio. Editio Princeps. Although _this_ volume came also +from the collection of the _illustrious Pair_ to whom the previous one +belonged, yet is it unworthy of such owners. I suspect it has been cropt in +its second binding. It is stained all through, at top, and the three +introductory leaves are cruelly repellent. + +CÆSAR. 1469. Folio. Editio Princeps. A very fine, genuine copy; in the +original binding--such as all Sweynheym and Pannartz's _ought_ to be. It is +tall and broad: but has been unluckily too much written upon. + +LACTANTIUS. 1470. _By the same Printers_. Perhaps, upon the whole, the +finest copy of this impression which exists. Yet a love of truth compels me +to observe--only in a very slight sound, approaching to a whisper--that +there are indications of the ravages of the worm, both at the beginning and +end; but very, very trivial. It is bound like the preceding volume; and +measures thirteen inches and nearly three quarters, by about nine inches +and one eighth. + +CICERO DE OFFICIIS. 1466. 4to. Second Edition, upon paper; and therefore +rare. But this copy is sadly stained and wormed. + +CICERO DE NATURA DEORUM, &c. _Printed by Vindelin de Spiraa_. 1471. Folio. +A fine sound copy, in the original binding. + +SILIUS ITALICUS. _Printed by Laver_. 1471. Folio. A good, sound copy; and +among the very rarest books from the press of Laver, in such condition. + +CATULLUS, TIBULLUS, ET PROPERTIUS. 1472. Folio. The knowing, in early +classical bibliography, are aware that this _Editio Princeps_ is perhaps to +be considered as only _one_ degree below the first impressions of Lucretius +and Virgil in rarity. The longest life may pass away without an opportunity +of becoming the purchaser of such a treasure. The present is a tall, fair +copy; quite perfect. In red morocco binding. + +DANTE. _Printed by Numeister_. 1472. Folio. Considered to be the earliest +impression. This is rather a broad than a tall copy; and not free from +stain and the worm. But it is among the very best copies which I have seen. + + * * * * * + +It will not be necessary to select more flowers from this choice corner of +the tenth and last room of the upper suite of apartments: nor am I sure +that, upon further investigation, the toil would be attended with any very +productive result. Yet I ought not to omit observing to you that this +Library owes its chief celebrity to the care, skill, and enthusiasm of the +famous _Gabriel Naudé_, the first librarian under the Cardinal its founder. +Of Naudé, you may have before read somewhat in certain publications;[104] +where his praises are set forth with no sparing hand. He was perhaps never +excelled in activity, bibliographical _diplomacy_, or zeal for his master; +and his expressive countenance affords the best index of his ardent mind. +He purchased every where, and of all kinds, of bodies corporate and of +individuals. But you must not imagine that the _Mazarine Library_, as you +now behold it, is precisely of the same dimensions, or contains the same +books, as formerly. If many rare and precious volumes have been disposed +of, or are missing, or lost, many have been also procured. The late +librarian was LUCAS JOSEPH HOOKE, and the present is Mons. PETIT +RADEL.[105] We will descend, therefore, from these quiet and congenial +regions; and passing through the lower rooms, seek the _other_ collection +of books attached to this establishment. + +The library, which is more immediately appropriated to the INSTITUTE OF +FRANCE, may consist of 20,000 volumes,[106] and is contained in a long +room--perhaps of one hundred feet--of which the further extremity is +supposed to be _adorned_ by a statue of VOLTAIRE. This statue is raised +within a recess, and the light is thrown upon it from above from a +concealed window. Of all deviations from good taste, this statue exhibits +one of the most palpable. Voltaire, who was as thin as a hurdle, and a mere +bag of bones, is here represented as an almost _naked_ figure, sitting: a +slight mantle over his left arm being the only piece of drapery which the +statue exhibits. The poet is slightly inclining his head to the left, +holding a pen in his right hand. The countenance has neither the fire, +force, nor truth, which Denon's terra-cotta head of the poet seems to +display. The extremities are meagre and offensive. In short, the whole, as +it appears to me, has an air approaching the burlesque. Opposite to this +statue are the colossal busts of LA-GRANGE and MALESHERBES; while those of +PEIRESC and FRANKLIN are nearly of the size of nature. They are all in +white marble. That of Peiresc has considerable expression. + +This may be called a collection of _Books of Business_; in other words, of +books of almost every day's reference--which every one may consult. It is +particularly strong in _Antiquities_ and _History_: and for the latter, it +is chiefly indebted to Dom Brial--the living father of French +history[107]--that excellent and able man (who is also one of the +Secretaries of the Institute) having recommended full two-thirds of the +_long sets_ (as they are called) which relate to ancient history. The +written catalogue is contained in fourteen folio volumes, interleaved; +there being generally only four articles written in a page, and those four +always upon the recto of each leaf. This is a good plan: for you may insert +your acquisitions, with the greatest convenience, for a full dozen years to +come. No _printed_ catalogue of either of these libraries, or of those of +the Arsenal and Ste. Geneviève, exists: which I consider to be a +_stain_--much more frightful than that which marks the copy of the +"_Servius in Virgilium_," just before described! + +It remains now to make mention of a _third_ Collection of Books--which may +be considered in the light both of a public and a private Library. I mean, +the Collection appropriated more particularly for the _King's private +use_,[108] and which is deposited beneath the long gallery of the Louvre. +Its local is as charming as it is peculiar. You walk by the banks of the +Seine, in a line with the south side of the Louvre, and gain admittance +beneath an archway, which is defended by an iron grating. An attendant, in +the royal livery, opens the door of the library--just after you have +ascended above the entresol. You enquire "whether Monsieur BARBIER, the +chief Librarian, be within?" "Sir, he is never absent. Be pleased to go +straight forward, as far as you can see."[109] What a sight is before me! +Nothing less than _thirteen_ rooms, with a small arched door in the centre, +through which I gaze as if looking through a tube. Each of these rooms is +filled with books; and in one or the other of them are assembled the +several visitors who come to read. The whole is perfectly magical. +Meanwhile the nephew of M. Barbier walks quickly, but softly, from one room +to another, to take down the several volumes enquired after. At length, +having paced along upwards of 200 feet of glazed red tile, and wondering +when this apparently interminable suite of apartments will end, I view my +estimable friend, the HEAD LIBRARIAN deeply occupied in some correction of +Bayle or of Moreri--sitting at the further extremity. His reception of me +is more than kind. It is hearty and enthusiastic. + +"Now that I am in this magical region, my good friend, allow me to inspect +the famous PRAYER BOOK of CHARLEMAGNE?"--was my first solicitation to Mons. +Barbier. "Gently,"--said my guide. "You are almost asking to partake of +forbidden fruit. But I suppose you must not be disappointed." This was only +sharpening the edge of my curiosity--for "wherefore this mystery, good M. +Barbier?" "_That_ you may know another time. The book is here: and you +shall immediately inspect it."--was his reply. M. Barbier unlocked the +recess in which it is religiously preserved; took off the crimson velvet in +which it is enveloped; and springing backward only two feet and a half, +exclaimed, on presenting it, "Le voilà--dans toute sa beauté pristine." I +own that I even forgot _Charles the Bald_--and eke his imperial brother +_Lotharius_,[110]--as I gazed upon the contents of it. With these contents +it is now high time that you should be made acquainted. + +EVANGELISTARIUM, or PRAYER BOOK--once belonging to CHARLEMAGNE. Folio. The +subject-matter of this most precious book is thus arranged. In the first +place, there are five large illuminations, of the entire size of the page, +which are much discoloured. The first four represent the _Evangelists_: +each sitting upon a cushion, not unlike a bolster. The fifth is the figure +of our SAVIOUR. The back ground is purple: the pillow-like seat, upon which +Christ sits, is scarlet, relieved by white and gold. The upper garment of +the figure is dark green: the lower, purple, bordered in part with gold. +The foot-stool is gold: the book, in the left hand, is red and gold: the +arabesque ornaments, in the border, are blue, red, and gold. The hair of +our Saviour is intended to be flaxen. + +The text is in double columns, upon a purple ground, within an arabesque +border of red, purple, yellow, and bluish green. It is uniformly executed +in letters of gold, of which the surface is occasionally rather splendid. +It consists of a series of gospel extracts, for the whole year, amounting +to about two hundred and forty-two. These extracts terminate with "_Et ego +resuscitabo eum in novissimo die. Amen_" + +Next comes a Christian Calendar, from the dominical year Dcclxxv. to +Dccxcvii. On casting the eye down these years, and resting it on that of +Dcclxxxi, you observe, in the columns of the opposite leaf, this very +important entry, or memorandum--in the undoubted writing of the time: "_In +isto Anno ivit Dominus_, REX KAROLUS, _ad scm Petrvm et baptisatus est +filius eius_ PIPPINUS _a Domino Apostolico_;" from which I think it is +evident (as is observed in the account of this precious volume in the +_Annales Encyclopédiques_, vol. iii. p. 378) that this very book was +commanded to be written chiefly to perpetuate a notice of the baptism, by +Pope Adrian, of the emperor's son PIPPIN.[111] There is no appearance +whatever of fabrication, in this memorandum. The whole is coeval, and +doubtless of the time when it is professed to have been executed. The last +two pages are occupied by Latin verses, written in a lower-case, cursive +hand; but contemporaneous, and upon a purple ground. From these verses we +learn that the last scribe, or copyist, of the text of this splendid +volume, was one GODESCALE, or GODSCHALCUS, a German. The verses are +reprinted in the _Décades Philosophiques_. + +This MS. was given to the _Abbey of St. Servin_, at Toulouse; and it was +religiously preserved there, in a case of massive silver, richly embossed, +till the year 1793; when the silver was stolen, and the book carried off, +with several precious relics of antiquity, by order of the President of the +Administration, (Le Sieur S*****) and thrown into a magazine, in which were +many other vellum MSS. destined ... TO BE BURNT! One's blood curdles at the +narrative. There it lay--- expecting its melancholy fate; till a Monsieur +de Puymaurin, then detained as a prisoner in the magazine, happened to +throw his eye upon the precious volume; and, writing a certain letter about +it, to a certain quarter--(which letter is preserved in the fly leaves, but +of which I was denied the transcription, from motives of delicacy--) an +order was issued by government for the conveyance of the MS. to the +metropolis. This restoration was effected in May 1811.[112] I think you +must admit, that, in every point of view, THIS MS. ranks among the most +interesting and curious, as well as the most ancient, of those in the +several libraries of Paris. + +But this is the _only_ piece of antiquity, of the book kind, in the +Library. Of modern performances, I ought to mention a French version of +OSSIAN, in quarto, which was the favourite reading book of the ex-Emperor; +and to which Isabey, at his express command, prefixed a frontispiece after +the design of Gérard. This frontispiece is beautifully and tenderly +executed: a group of heroes, veiled in a mist, forms the back-ground. The +only other modern curiosity, in this way, which I deem it necessary to +notice, is a collection of ORIGINAL DRAWINGS of flowers, in water colours, +by RÉDOUTÉ, upon vellum: in seven folio volumes; and which cost 70,000 +francs.[113] Nothing can exceed--and very few efforts of the pencil can +equal--this wonderful performance. Such a collection were reasonable at the +fore-mentioned price. + +And now, my good friend, suppose I furnish you with an outline of the +worthy head-librarian himself? A.A. BARBIER has perhaps not long "turned +the corner" of his fiftieth year. Peradventure he may be fifty three.[114] +In stature, he is above the middle height, but not very tall. In form, he +is robust; and his countenance expressive of great conciliatoriness and +benignity. There is a dash of the "old school" about the attire of M. +Barbier, which I am Goth enough to admire: while his ardour of +conversation, and rapidity of utterance, relieved by frequent and +expressive smiles, make his society, equally agreeable and instructive. He +is a literary bibliographer to the very back bone; and talks of what he has +done, and of what he purposes to do, with a "gaieté de coeur" which is +quite delightful. He is now engaged in an _Examen Critique et Complément +des Dictionnaires Historiques les plus repandus_;[115] while his +_Dictionnaire des Auteurs Anonymes et Pseudonymes_, in 4 vols. 8vo., and +his _Bibliothéque d'un Homme de gout_," in five similar volumes, have +already placed him in the foremost rank of French bibliographers. Such is +his attention to the duties of his situation, as Librarian, that from one +year's end to the other, with the exception of Sundays, he has _no +holiday_. His home-occupations, after the hours of public employment (from +twelve to four) are over, are not less unintermitting--in the pursuits of +literary bibliography. + +It was at this home, that M. Barbier shewed me, in his library, some of the +fruits of his long and vigorously pursued "travail." He possesses Mercier +Saint Léger's own copy of his intended _third_ edition of the _Supplement +to Marchand's History of Printing_. It is, in short, the second edition, +covered with ms. notes in the hand-writing of Mercier himself.[117] He also +possesses (but as the property of the Royal Library) the same eminent +bibliographer's copy of the _Bibliothèque Française De La Croix du Maine_, +in six volumes, covered in like manner with ms. notes by the same hand. To +a man of M. Barbier's keen literary appetite, this latter must prove an +inexhaustible feast. I was shewn, in this same well-garnished, but +unostentatious collection, GOUJET'S own catalogue of his own library. It is +in six folio volumes; well written; with a ruled frame work round each +page, and an ornamental frontispiece to the first volume. Every book in the +catalogue has a note subjoined; and the index is at once full and +complete.[118] M. Barbier has rather a high notion, and with justice, of +Goujet: observing to me, that _five_ volumes, out of the _ten_ of the last +edition of Moreri's Dictionary--which were edited by Goujet--as well as his +_Bibliothéque Française_, in eighteen duodecimo volumes--entitled him to +the lasting gratitude of posterity. On my remarking that the want of an +index, to this _latter_ work, was a great drawback to the use which might +be derived from it, M.B. readily coincided with me--and hoped that a +projected new edition would remedy this defect. M.B. also told me that +Goujet was the editor of the _Dictionnaire de Richelet_, of 1758, in three +folio volumes--which had escaped my recollection. + +My first visit to M. Barbier was concluded by his begging my acceptance of +a copy of the _first edition of Phædrus_, in 1596, 12mo.; which contained, +bound up with it, a copy of the _second_ edition of 1600; with various +readings to the _latter_, from a MS. which was burnt in 1774. This gift was +expressly intended for Lord Spencer's library, and in a few months from +hence (as I have previously apprized his Lordship) it shall "repose upon +the shelves" of his Collection.[119] + +It is now high time to relieve you; as you must begin to be almost wearied +with BIBLIOGRAPHY. You have indeed, from the tenor of these five last +letters, been made acquainted with some of the chief treasures in the +principal libraries of Paris. You have wandered with me through a world of +books; and have been equally, with myself, astonished and delighted with +what has been placed before you. Here, then, I drop the subject of +bibliography--only to be resumed as connected with an account of book-men. + + +[91] [Because I have said that M. FLOCON was "from home" at the time I + visited the library, and that M. Le CHEVALIER was rarely to be found + abroad, M. Crapelet lets loose such a tirade of vituperation as is + downright marvellous and amusing to peruse. Most assuredly I was not + to know M. Flocon's bibliographical achievements and distinction by + _inspiration_; and therefore I hasten to make known both the one and + the other--in a version of a portion of the note of my sensitive + translator: "M. Flocon is always at work; and one of the most zealous + Librarians in Paris: he has worked twenty years at a Catalogue of the + immense Library of Ste. Geneviève, of which the fruits are, + twenty-four volumes--ready for press. Assuredly such a man cannot be + said to pass his life away from his post." CRAPELET, vol iv. p. 3, 4. + Most true--and who has said that HE DOES? Certainly not the Author of + this Work. My translator must have here read without his spectacles.] + +[92] _Editiones Italicæ_; 1793. _Præf._ + +[93] Vol. i. p. 63-7. It is there observed that "there does not seem to be + any reason for assigning this edition, to a _Roman_ press." + +[94] See page 116 ante + +[95] See page 139 ante. + +[96] See page 145 ante. + +[97] [Now the property of the Right Hon. T. Grenville; having been + purchased at the sale of Mr. Dent's Library for 107_l_.] + +[98] M. Crapelet doubts the truth of this story. He need not. + +[99] [See the account of M. Barbier, post.] + +[100] It is on a small piece of paper, addressed to M. Barbier: "Cherchez + dans les depôts bien soigneusement, tous les ouvrages d'ANDRE CIRINE: + entr'autres ses _De Venatione libri ii: Messanæ_ 1650. 8vo. _De natura + et solertia Canum; Panormi_, 1653. 4to. _De Venatione et Natura + Animalium Libri V. ibid_, 1653. 3 vol. in 4to.--tous avec figures + gravées en bois. Peut être dans la _Bibl. des Théatres_ y étoient-ils. + Je me recommande toujours à M, Barbier pour la _Scala Coeli_, in + folio, pour les _Lettres de Rangouge_, et pour les autres livres qu'il + a bien voulu se charger de rechercher pour moy." ST. LEGER. + +[101] The Abbé Hooke preceded the abbé Le Blond; the late head librarian. + The present head librarian M. PETIT RADEL, has given a good account of + the Mazarine Library in his _Recherches sur les Bibliotheques_, &c. + 1819, 8vo.; but he has been reproached with a sort of studied omission + of the name of Liblond--who, according to a safe and skilful writer, + may be well considered the SECOND FOUNDER of the Mazarine Library. The + Abbé Liblond died at St. Cloud in 1796. In M. Renouard's Catalogue of + his own books, vol. ii. p. 253, an amusing story is told about Hooke's + successor, the Abbé Le Blond, and Renouard himself. + +[102] _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. i. p. 3, &c. and page 154 ante. + +[103] When Lord Spencer was at Paris in 1819, he told MM. Petit Radel and + Thiebaut, who attended him, that it was "the finest copy he had ever + seen." Whereupon, one of these gentlemen wrote with a pencil, in the + fly-leaf, "Lord Spencer dit que c'est le plus bel exemplaire qu'il ait + vu." And well might his Lordship say so. + +[104] _Bibliomania_, p. 50. _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. ii. + p. 493. + +[105] Mons. Petit-Radel has lately (1819) published an interesting octavo + volume, entitled "_Recherches sur les Bibliothéques anciennes et + modernes,&c._ with a "_Notice Historique sur la Bibliothéque + Mazarine_: to which latter is prefixed a plate, containing portraits + in outline, of Mazarin, Colbert, Naudé and Le Blond." At the end, is a + list of the number of volumes in the several public libraries at + Paris: from which the following is selected. + + ROYAL LIBRARY _Printed Volumes_ about 350,000 + _Ditto, as brochures_, &c. 350,000 + Manuscripts 50,000 + + LIBRARY OF THE ARSENAL Printed Volumes 150,000 + Manuscripts 5,000 + + LIBRARY OF ST. GENEVIEVE Printed Volumes 110,000 + Manuscripts 2,000 + + MAZARINE LIBRARY Printed Volumes 90,000 + Manuscripts 3,500 + + LIBRARY OF THE PREFECTURE + (Hotel de la Ville) Printed Volumes 15,000 + + ------- INSTITUTE Printed Volumes 50,000 + + This last calculation I should think very incorrect. M. Petit Radel + concludes his statement by making the WHOLE NUMBER OF ACCESSIBLE + VOLUMES IN Paris amount to _One Million, one hundred and twenty-five + thousand, four hundred and thirty-seven_. In the several DEPARTMENTS + OF FRANCE, collectively, there is _more_ than that number. But see the + note ensuing. + +[106] [Mons. Crapelet says, 60,000 volumes: but I have more faith in the + first, than in the second, computation: not because it comes from + myself, but because a pretty long experience, in the numbering of + books, has taught me to be very moderate in my numerical estimates. I + am about to tell the reader rather a curious anecdote connected with + this subject. He may, or he may not, be acquainted with the Public + Library at Cambridge; where, twenty-five years ago, they boasted of + having 90,000 volumes; and now, 120,000 volumes. In the year 1823, I + ventured to make, what I considered to be, rather a minute and + carefull calculation of the whole number: and in a sub note in the + _Library Companion_, p. 657, edit. 1824, stated my conviction of that + number's not exceeding 65,000 volumes, including MSS. In the following + year, a very careful estimate was made, by the Librarians, of the + whole number:--and the result was, that there were only.... 64,800 + volumes!] + +[107] Now, numbered with THE DEAD. Vide post. + +[108] [The translation of the whole of the concluding part of this letter, + beginning from above, together with the few notes supplied, as seen in + M. Crapelet's publication, is the work of M. Barbier's nephew.] + +[109] [For M. Barbier Junior's note, which, in M. Crapelet's publication, + is here subjoined, consult the end of the Letter.] + +[110] See pages 65-7 ante. + +[111] [This conclusion is questioned with acuteness and success by M. + Barbier's nephew. It seems rather that the MS. was finished in 781, to + commemorate the victories of Charlemagne over his Lombardic enemies in + 774.] + +[112] [This restoration, in the name of the City of Toulouse, was made in + the above year--on the occasion of the baptism of Bonaparte's son. But + it was not placed in the King's private library till 1814. BARBIER + Jun.] + +[113] [Now complete in 8 volumes--at the cost of 80,000 francs!] + +[114] [The latter was the true guess: for M. Barbier died in 1825, in his + 60th year.] + +[115] It was published in 1821. In one of his recent letters to me, the + author thus observes--thereby giving a true portraiture of himself-- + "Je sais, Monsieur, quelle est votre ardeur pour le travail: je sais + aussi que c'est le moyen d'être heureux: ainsi je vous félicite d'être + constamment occupé." M. Barbier is also one of the contributors to the + _Biographie Universelle_,[116] and has written largely in the _Annales + Encyclopédiques_. Among his contributions to the latter, is a very + interesting "_Notice des principaux écrits relatifs à la personne et + aux ouvrages de J.J. Rousseau_." His "_Catalogue des livres dans la + Bibliothéque du Conseil d'Etat_, transported to Fontainbleau in 1807, + and which was executed in a handsome folio volume, in 1802, is a + correct and useful publication. I boast with justice of a copy of it, + on fine paper, of which the author several years ago was so obliging + as to beg my acceptance. [From an inscription in the fly-leaf of this + Catalogue, I present the reader with a fac-simile of the hand-writing + of its distinguished author.] + + [Autograph] + + +[116] [I "ALONE am responsible for this Sin. _Suum Cuique_." + BARBIER, Jun.] + +[117] [These volumes form the numbers 1316 and 1317 of the Catalogue of M. + Barbier's library, sold by auction in 1828.] + +[118] [Consult _Bibl. Barbier_: Nos. 1490, 1491, 1861.] + +[119] [The agreeable and well instructed Bibliographer, to the + praises of whom, in the preceding edition of this work, I was too + happy to devote the above few pages, is now NO MORE. Mons. Barbier + died in 1825, and his library--the richest in literary bibliography in + Paris,--was sold in 1828. On referring to page 197 ante, it will be + seen that I have alluded to a note of M. Barbier's nephew, of which + some mention was to be made in this place. I will give that note in + its _original language_, because the most felicitous version of it + would only impair its force. It is subjoined to these words of my + text: "Be pleased to go strait forward as far as you can see." + "L'homme de service lui-même ne ferait plus cette rêponse aujourd'hui. + Peu de temps après l'impression du Voyage de M. Dibdin, ce qu'on + appelle une _organisation_ eut lieu. Après vingt-sept ans de travaux + consacrés à la bibliographique et aux devoirs de sa place, M. Barbier, + que ses fonctions paisibles avoient protégés contre les terribles + dénonciations de 1815, n'a pu régister, en 1822, aux délations + mensongères de quelque commis sous M. Lauriston. + + _Insere nunc, Meliboee, pyros; pone ordine vites_! + + J'ai partagé pendant vingt ans les travaux de mon oncle pour former la + bibliothéque de la couronne, et j'ai du, ainsi que lui, être mis a la + retraite au moment de la promotion du nouveau Conservateur." CRAPELET, + vol. iv. p. 45. + + I will not pretend to say _what_ were the causes which led to such a + disgraceful, because wholly unmerited, result. But I have reason to + BELIEVE that a dirty faction was at work, to defame the character of + the Librarian, and in consequence, to warp the judgment of the + Monarch. Nothing short of infidelity to his trust should have moved + SUCH a Man from the Chair which he had so honourably filled in the + private Library of Louis XVIII. But M. Barbier was beyond suspicion on + this head; and in ability he had perhaps, scarcely an equal--in the + particular range of his pursuits. His _retreating_ PENSION was a very + insufficient balm to heal the wounds which had been inflicted upon + him; and it was evident to those, who had known him long and well, + that he was secretly pining at heart, and that his days of happiness + were gone. He survived the dismissal from his beloved Library only + five years: dying in the plenitude of mental vigour. I shall always + think of him with no common feelings of regret: for never did a kinder + heart animate a well-stored head. I had hoped, if ever good fortune + should carry me again to Paris, to have renewed, in person, an + acquaintance, than which none had been more agreeable to me, since my + first visit there in 1818: But ... "Diis aliter visum est." There is + however a mournful pleasure in making public these attestations to the + honour of his memory; and, in turn, I must be permitted to quote from + the same author as the nephew of M. Barbier has done.... + + His saltem accumulem donis, et fungar inani + Munere.... + + Perhaps the following anecdote relating to the deceased, may be as + acceptable as it is curious. Those of my readers who have visited + Paris, will have constantly observed, on the outsides of houses, the + following letters, painted in large capitals: + + MACL: + + implying--as the different emblems of our Fire Offices imply-- + + "M[aison] A[ssurée] C[ontre] L'[incendie]:" + + in plain English, that such houses are insured against fire. Walking + one afternoon with M. Barbier, I pointed to these letters, and said, + "You, who have written upon _Anonymes_ and _Pseudonymes_, do you know + what those letters signify?" He replied, "Assuredly--and they can have + but _one_ meaning." "What is that?" He then explained them as I have + just explained them. "But (rejoined I) since I have been at Paris, I + have learnt that they also imply _another_ meaning." "What might that + be?" Stopping him, and gently touching his arm, and looking round to + see that we were not overheard, I answered in a suppressed tone:-- + + "M[es] A[mis] C[hassez] L[ouis]." + + He was thunderstruck. He had never heard it before: and to be told it + by a stranger! "Mais (says he, smiling, and resuming his steps) "voila + une chose infiniment drole!" + + Let it be remembered, that this HERETICAL construction upon these + Initial Capitals was put at a time when the _Bonaparte Fever_ was yet + making some of the pulses of the Parisians beat 85 strokes to the + minute. _Now_, his Majesty Charles X. will smile as readily at this + anecdote as did the incomparable Librarian of his Regal Predecessor. + + + + +[INTRODUCTION TO LETTER VIII.] + + +Before entering upon the perusal of this memorable Letter--which, in the +previous edition, was numbered LETTER XXX,--(owing to the Letters having +been numbered consecutively from the beginning to the end) I request the +Reader's attention to a few preliminary remarks, which may possibly guide +him to form a more correct estimate of its real character. MONS. LICQUET +having published a French version of my Ninth Letter, descriptive of the +Public Library at Rouen, (and to which an allusion has been made in vol. i. +p. 99.) MONS. CRAPELET (see p. 1, ante) undertook a version of the +_ensuing_ Letter: of which he printed _one hundred copies_. Both +translations were printed in M. Crapelet's office, to arrange, in type and +form of publication, as much as possible with my own; so that, if the +_intrinsic_ merit of these versions could not secure purchasers, the beauty +of the paper and of the press work (for both are very beautiful) might +contribute to their circulation. To the version of M. Crapelet[120] was +prefixed a _Preface_, combining such a mixture of malignity and +misconception, that I did not hesitate answering it, in a privately printed +tract, entitled "A ROLAND FOR AN OLIVER." Of this Tract, "only _thirty-six +copies were printed_." "So much the better for the Author"--says M. +Crapelet. The sequel will shew. + +In the publication of the _entire_ version of my Tour, by M.M. Licquet and +Crapelet, the translation of this VIIIth Letter appears as it did in the +previous publication--with the exception of the omission of the _Preface_: +but in lieu of which, there is another and a short preface, by M. Crapelet, +to the third volume, where, after telling his readers that his previous +attempt had excited my "holy wrath," he seems to rejoice in the severity of +those criticisms, which, in certain of our _own_ public Journals, have been +passed upon my subsequent bibliographical labours. With these criticisms I +have here nothing to do. If the authors of them can reconcile them to their +own good sense and subsequent reflections, and the Public to their own +INDEPENDENCE of JUDGMENT, the voice of remonstrance will be ineffectual. +Time will strike the balance between the Critic and the Author: and without +pretending to explore the mysteries of an occasional _getting-up_ of +Reviews of particular articles, I think I can speak in the language of +justice, as well as of confidence, of the Author of ONE of these reviews, +by a quotation from the _Ajax Flagellifer_ of SOPHOCLES. + + [Greek: Blepô gar echthron phôta, kai tach' an kakois + Gelôn, ha dê kakourgos exikoit' anêr.--] + +To return to M. Crapelet; and to have done with him. The _motive_ for his +undertaking the version of this memorable Letter, about "BOOKSELLERS, +PRINTERS, and BOOKBINDERS at Paris," seems to be wholly inconceivable; +since the logic of the undertaking would be as follows. BECAUSE I have +spoken favourably of the whole typographical fraternity--and because, in +particular, of M. Crapelet, his _Ménage_, and Madame who is at the head of +it--_because_ I have lauded his Press equally with his Cellar--THEREFORE +the "_un_holy wrath" of M. Crapelet is excited; and he cannot endure the +freedom taken by the English traveller. It would be abusing the confidence +reposed in me by written communications, from characters of the first +respectability, were I to make public a few of the sentiments contained in +them--expressive of surprise and contempt at the performance of the French +typographer. But in mercy to my adversary, he shall be spared the pain of +their perusal. + + +[120] [A young stranger, a Frenchman--living near the mountainous solitudes + between Lyons and the entrance into Italy--and ardently attached to + the study of bibliography--applied himself, under the guidance of a + common friend--dear to us both from the excellence of his head and + heart--to a steady perusal of the _Bibliographical Decameron_, and the + _Tour_. He mastered both works within a comparatively short time. He + then read _A Roland for an Oliver_--and voluntarily tendered to me his + French translation of it. How successfully the whole has been + accomplished, may be judged from the following part--being the version + of my preface only. + + OBSERVATION PRELIMINAIRE. + + "La production de M. Crapelet rappelée, dans le titre précédent, sera + considérée comme un phénomène dans son genre. Elle est, certes, sans + antécédent et, pour l'honneur de la France, je desire qu'elle n'ait + pas d'imitateurs. Quiconque prendra la peine de lire la trentième + lettre de mon voyage, soit dans l'original, soit dans la version de M. + Crapelet, en laissant de coté les notes qui appartiennent an + traducteur, conviendra facilement que cette lettre manifeste les + sentimens les plus impartiaux et les plus honorables à l'état actuel + de la librairie et de l'imprimerie à Paris. Dans plusieurs passages, + où l'on compare l'éxécution typographique, dans les deux pays, la + supériorité est décidée en faveur de la France. Quant a _l'esprit_ qui + a dicté cette lettre, je déclare, comme homme d'honneur, ne l'avoir + pas composée, dans un systême d'opposition, envers ceux qu'elle + concerne plus particulièrement. + + "Cependant, il n'en a pas moins plu à M. Crapelet, imprimeur de Paris, + l'un de ceux dont il y est fait plus spécialement l'éloge, + d'accompagner sa traduction de cette lettre, de notes déplacées et + injurieuses pour le caractère de l'auteur et de son ouvrage. Par suite + probablement du peu d'étendue de ses idées et de l'organisation + vicieuse de ses autres sens, ce typographe s'est livré a une séries + d'observations qui outragent autant la raison que la politesse, et qui + décèlent hautement sa malignité et sa noirceur. Les formes de son + procédé ne sont pas moins méprisables que le fond. Avec la prétention + avouée de ne répandre que partiellement sa version, + + (Voulant blesser et cependant timide pour frapper) + + il s'est servi de ses propres presses et il a imprimé le texte et les + notes avec des caractères et sur un papier aussi semblables que + possible à ceux de l'ouvrage qu'il venait de traduire. Il en a + surveillé, a ce qu'on assure, l'impression, avec l'attention + personelle la plus scrupuleuse, en sorte qu'il n'est aucune _epreuvé + égarée_, qui ait été soumise à d'autres yeux que les siens. Il a prit + soin, en outre, d'en faire tirer, au moins, cent exemplaires, et de + les répandre.[C] Comme ces cent exemplaires seront probablement lus + par dix fois le même nombre de personnes, il y aurait eu plus de + franchisé et peut-être plus de bon sens de la part de M. Crapelet à + diriger publiquement ses coups contre moi que de le faire sous la + couverture d'un _pamphlet privé_. Il a fait choix de ce genre + d'attaque; il ne me reste plus qu'à adopter une semblable méthode de + défense: si ce n'est, qu'au lieu de cent exemplaires, ces remarques ne + seront véritablement imprimée qu'a _trente six_. Ce procédé est certes + plus délicat que celui de mon adversaire; mais soit que M. Crapelet + ait préféré l'obscurité à la lumière, il n'en est pas moins évident + que son intention a été d'employer tous ses petits moyens, a renverser + la réputation d'un ouvrage, dont il avoue lui-même avoir à peine lu la + cinquantième partie! + + "Par le contenu de ses notes, on voit qu'il a cherché, avec une + assiduité condamnable, a recueillir le mal qu'il me suppose avoir eu + l'intention de dire des personnes que j'ai citées, et cependant, après + tout ce travail, a peine a-t-il pû découvrir l'ombre d'une seule + allusion maligne. Jamais on ne fit un usage plus déplorable de son + tems et de ses peines, car toutes les phrases de cette production sont + aussi obscures que tirées de loin. + + "Il est difficile, ainsi que je l'ai déjà observé, de se rendre compte + des motifs d'une telle conduite. Mais M. Crapelet n'a fait part de son + secret à personne, et d'après l'échantillon dont il s'agit ici, je + n'ai nulle envie de le lui demander. + + T.F.D. + + "J'avais eu d'abord l'intention de relever chacunes des notes de M. + Crapelet, mais de plus mûres réfléxions m'ont fait connaitre + l'absurdité d'une telle enterprise. Je m'en suis donc tenu à la + préface, sans toutefois, ainsi que le lecteur pourra s'en appercevoir, + laisser tomber dans l'oubli le mérite des notes. Encore un mot; M. + Crapelet m'a attaqué et je me suis défendu. Il peut récommencer, si + cela lui fait plaisir; mais désormais je ne lui répondrai que par le + silence et le mépris." + + [C] "M. Crapelet, en sa qualité de critique, a mis ici du + raffinement; car je soupçonne qu'il y a eu au moins vingt cinq + exemplaires tirés sur papier vélin. C'est ainsi qu'il sait dorer + sa pillule, pour la rendre plus présentable aux dignes amis de + l'auteur, les bibliophiles de Paris. Mais ces Messieurs ont trop + bon gout pour l'accepter. + + + + +_LETTER VIII._ + +SOME ACCOUNT OF THE LATE ABBÉ RIVE. BOOKSELLERS. PRINTERS. BOOK-BINDERS. + + +I make no doubt that the conclusion of my last letter has led you to expect +a renewal of the BOOK THEME: but rather, I should hope, as connected with +those Bibliographers, Booksellers, and Printers, who have for so many years +shed a sort of lustre upon _Parisian Literature_. It will therefore be no +unappropriate continuation of this subject, if I commence by furnishing you +with some particulars respecting a Bibliographer who was considered, in his +life time, as the terror of his acquaintance, and the pride of his patron: +and who seems to have never walked abroad, or sat at home, without a +scourge in one hand, and a looking-glass in the other. Droll combination!-- +you will exclaim. But it is of the ABBÉ RIVE of whom I now speak; the very +_Ajax flagellifer_ of the bibliographical tribe, and at the same time the +vainest and most self-sufficient. He seems, amidst all the controversy in +which he delighted to be involved, to have always had _one_ never-failing +source of consolation left:--that of seeing himself favourably reflected-- +from the recollection of his past performances--in the mirror of his own +conceit! I have before[121] descanted somewhat upon probably the most +splendid of his projected performances, and now hasten to a more particular +account of the man himself. + +It was early one morning--before I had even commenced my breakfast--that a +stranger was announced to me. And who, think you, should that stranger turn +out to be? Nothing less than the _Nephew_ of the late Abbé Rive. His name +was MORENAS. His countenance was somewhat like that which Sir Thomas More +describes the hero of his Utopia to have had. It was hard, swarthy, and +severe. He seemed in every respect to be "a travelled man." But his manners +and voice were mild and conciliating. "Some one had told him that I had +written about the Abbé Rive, and that I was partial to his work. Would I do +him the favour of a visit? when I might see, at his house, (_Rue du Vieux +Colombier, près St. Sulpice_) the whole of the Abbé's MSS. and all his +projected works for the press. They were for sale. Possibly I might wish to +possess them?" I thanked the stranger for his intelligence, and promised I +would call that same morning. + +M. Morenas has been indeed a great traveller. When I called, I found him +living up two pair of stairs, preparing for another voyage to Senegal. He +was surrounded by _trunks_ ... in which were deposited the literary remains +of his uncle. In other words, these remains consisted of innumerable +_cards_, closely packed, upon which the Abbé had written all his memoranda +relating to ... I scarcely know what. But the whole, from the nephew's +statement, seemed to be an encyclopædia of knowledge. In one trunk, were +about _six thousand_ notices of MSS. of all ages; and of editions in the +fifteenth century. In another trunk, were wedged about _twelve thousand_ +descriptions of books in all languages, except those of French and Italian, +from the sixteenth century to his own period: these were professed to be +accompanied with critical notes. In a third trunk was a bundle of papers +relating to the _History of the Troubadours_; in a fourth, was a collection +of memoranda and literary sketches, connected with the invention of Arts +and Sciences, with Antiquities, Dictionaries, and pieces exclusively +bibliographical. A fifth trunk contained between _two and three thousand_ +cards, written upon on each side, respecting a collection of prints; +describing the ranks, degrees, and dignities of all nations--of which +eleven folio _cahiers_ were published, in 1779--without the letter-press-- +but in a manner to make the Abbé extremely dissatisfied with the engraver. +In a sixth trunk were contained his papers respecting earthquakes, +volcanoes, and geographical subjects: so that, you see, the Abbé Rive at +least fancied himself a man of tolerably universal attainments. It was of +course impossible to calculate the number, or to appreciate the merits, of +such a multifarious collection; but on asking M. Morenas if he had made up +his mind respecting the _price_ to be put upon it, he answered, that he +thought he might safely demand 6000 francs for such a body of miscellaneous +information. I told him that this was a sum much beyond my means to +adventure; but that it was at least an object worthy of the consideration +of the "higher powers" of his own government. He replied, that he had +little hopes of success in those quarters: that he was anxious to resume +his travels; talked of another trip to Senegal; for that, after so +locomotive a life, a sedentary one was wearisome to him.... + + ... "trahit sua quemque voluptas!" + +Over the chimney-piece was a portrait, in pencil, of his late uncle: done +from the life. It was the only one extant. It struck me indeed as +singularly indicative of the keen, lively, penetrating talents of the +original. On the back of the portrait were the lines which are here +subjoined: + + _Dès sa plus tendre enfance aux études livré, + La soif de la science l'a toujours dévoré. + Une immense lecture enrichit ses écrits, + Et la critique sure en augmente le prix._ + +These lines are copied from the _Journal des Savans_ for October 1779. Iean +Joseph Rive was born at Apt, in 1730, and died at Marseilles in 1791. He +had doubtless great parts, natural and acquired: a retentive memory, a +quick perception, and a vast and varied reading. He probably commenced +amassing his literary treasures as early as his fourteenth year; and to his +latest breath he pursued his researches with unabated ardour. But his +career was embittered by broils and controversies; while the frequent acts +of kindness, and the general warmth of heart, evinced in his conduct, +hardly sufficed to soften the asperity, or to mitigate the wrath, of a host +of enemies--which assailed him to the very last. But Cadmus-like, he sowed +the seeds from which these combatants sprung. Whatever were his defects, as +a public character, he is said to have been, in private, a kind parent, a +warm friend, and an excellent master. The only servant which he ever had, +and who remained with him twenty-four years, mourned his loss as that of a +father. Peace to his ashes! + +From bibliography let me gently, and naturally, as it were, conduct you +towards BIBLIOPOLISM. In other words, allow me to give you a sketch of a +few of the principal Booksellers in this gay metropolis; who strive, by the +sale of instructive and curious tomes, sometimes printed in the black +letter of _Gourmont_ and _Marnef_, to stem the torrent of those trivial or +mischievous productions which swarm about the avenues of the Palais Royal. +In ancient times, the neighbourhood of the SORBONNE was the great mart for +books. When I dined in this neighbourhood, with my friend M. Gail, the +Greek Professor at the College Royale, I took an opportunity of leisurely +examining this once renowned quarter. I felt even proud and happy to walk +the streets, or rather tread the earth, which had been once trodden by +_Gering_, _Crantz_, and _Fiburger_.[122] Their spirits seemed yet to haunt +the spot:--but no volume, nor even traces of one--executed at their press-- +could be discovered. To have found a perfect copy of _Terence_, printed in +their first Roman character, would have been a _trouvaille_ sufficiently +lucky to have compensated for all previous toil, and to have franked me as +far as Strasbourg. + +The principal mart for booksellers, of old and second hand books, is now +nearer the Seine; and especially in the _Quai des Augustins_. _Messrs. +Treuttel and Würtz, Panckoucke, Renouard_, and _Brunet_, live within a +quarter of a mile of each other: about a couple of hundred yards from the +_Quai des Augustins_. Further to the south, and not far from the Hotel de +Clugny, in the _Rue Serpente_, live the celebrated DEBURE. They are +booksellers to the King, and to the Royal Library; and a more respectable +house, or a more ancient firm, is probably not to be found in Europe. +Messrs. Debure are as straight-forward, obliging, and correct, in their +transactions, as they are knowing in the value, and upright in the sale, of +their stock in trade. No bookseller in Paris possesses a more judicious +stock, or can point to so many rare and curious books. A young collector +may rely with perfect safety upon them; and accumulate, for a few hundred +pounds, a very respectable stock of _Editiones principes_ or _rarissimæ_. I +do not say that such young collector would find them _cheaper there_, or +_so cheap_ as in _Pall-Mall_; but I do say that he may rest assured that +Messieurs Debure would never, knowingly, sell him an imperfect book. Of the +Debure, there are two brothers: of whom the elder hath a most gallant +propensity to _portrait-collecting_--and is even rich in portraits relating +to _our_ history. Of course the chief strength lies in French history; and +I should think that Monsieur Debure l'ainé shewed me almost as many +portraits of Louis XIV. as there are editions of the various works of +Cicero in the fifteenth century.[123] But my attention was more +particularly directed to a certain boudoir, up one pair of stairs, in which +Madame Debure, their venerable and excellent mother, chooses to deposit +some few very choice copies of works in almost every department of +knowledge. There was about _one_ of the _best_ editions in each department: +and whether it were the Bible, or the History of the Bucaineers--whether a +lyrical poet of the reign of Louis XIV. or the ballad metres of that of +François Premier ... there you found it!--bound by Padaloup, or Deseuille, +or De Rome. What think you, among these "choice copies," of the _Cancionero +Generale_ printed at Toledo in 1527, in the black letter, double columned, +in folio? Enough to madden even our poet-laureat--for life! I should add, +that these books are not thus carefully kept together for the sake of +_shew_: for their owner is a fair good linguist, and can read the Spanish +with tolerable fluency. Long may she yet read it.[124] + +The Debure had the selling, by auction, of the far-famed M'CARTHY LIBRARY; +and I saw upon their shelves some of the remains of that splendid +membranaceous collection. Indeed I bought several desirable specimens of +it: among them, a fine copy of _Vindelin de Spira's_ edition (1471) of _St. +Cyprians Epistles_, UPON VELLUM.[125] Like their leading brethren in the +neighbourhood, Messieurs Debure keep their country house, and there pass +the Sabbath. + +The house of TREUTTEL and WURTZ is one of the richest and one of the most +respectable in Europe. The commerce of that House is chiefly in the +wholesale way; and they are, in particular, the publishers and proprietors +of all the great classical works put forth at _Strasbourg_. Indeed, it was +at this latter place where the family first took root: but the branches of +their prosperity have spread to Paris and to London with nearly equal +luxuriance. They have a noble house in the _Rue de Bourbon_, no. 17: like +unto an hotel; where each day's post brings them despatches from the chief +towns in Europe. Their business is regulated with care, civility, and +dispatch; and their manners are at once courteous and frank. Nothing would +satisfy them but I must spend a Sabbath with them, at their country house +at _Groslai_; hard by the village and vale of Montmorenci. I assented +willingly. On the following Sunday, their capacious family coach, and pair +of sleek, round, fat black horses, arrived at my lodgings by ten o'clock; +and an hour and three quarters brought me to Groslai. The cherries were +ripe, and the trees were well laden with fruit: for Montmorenci cherries, +as you may have heard, are proverbial for their excellence. I spent a very +agreeable day with mine hosts. Their house is large and pleasantly +situated, and the view of Paris from thence is rather picturesque. But I +was most struck with the conversation and conduct of Madame Treuttel. She +is a thoroughly good woman. She has raised, at her own expense, an +alms-house in the village for twelve poor men; and built a national school +for the instruction of the poor and ignorant of both sexes. She is herself +a Lutheran Protestant; as are her husband and her son-in-law M. Würtz. At +first, she had some difficulties to encounter respecting the _school_; and +sundry conferences with the village Curé, and some of the head clergy of +Paris, were in consequence held. At length all difficulties were surmounted +by the promise given, on the part of Madame Treuttel, to introduce only the +French version of the Bible by _De Sacy_. Hence the school was built, and +the children of the village flocked in numbers to it for instruction. I +visited both the alms-house and the school, and could not withhold my +tribute of hearty commendation at the generosity, and thoroughly Christian +spirit, of the foundress of such establishments. There is more good sense +and more private and public virtue, in the application of superfluous +wealth in this manner, than in the erection of a hundred palaces like that +at _Versailles!_[126] + +A different, and a more touching object presented itself to my view in the +garden. Walking with Madame, we came, through various détours, into a +retired and wooded part: where, on opening a sort of wicket gate, I found +myself in a small square space, with hillocks in the shape of _tumuli_ +before me. A bench was at the extremity. It was a resting place for the +living, and a depository of the dead. Flowers, now a good deal faded, were +growing upon these little mounds--beneath which the dead seemed to sleep in +peace. "What might this mean?" "Sir," replied Madame Treuttel, "this is +consecrated ground. My son-in-law sleeps here--and his only and beloved +child lies by the side of him. You will meet my daughter, his wife, at +dinner. She, with myself, visit this spot at stated seasons--when we renew +and indulge our sorrows on the recollection of those who sleep beneath. +These are losses which the world can never repair. We all mean to be +interred within the same little fenced space.[127] I have obtained a long +lease of it--for some fifty years: at the expiration of which time, the +work of dissolution will be sufficiently complete with us all." So spake my +amiable and enlightened guide. The remainder of the day--during which we +took a stroll to Montmorenci, and saw the house and gardens where Rousseau +wrote his _Emile_--was spent in a mixed but not irrational manner: much +accordant with my own feelings, and most congenial with a languid state of +body which had endured the heats of Paris for a month, without feeling +scarcely a breath of air the whole time. + +ANTOINE-AUGUSTIN RENOUARD, living in the _Rue St. André des Arts_, is the +next bibliopolist whom I shall introduce to your attention. He is among the +most lynx-eyed of his fraternity: has a great knowledge of books; a +delightful ALDINE LIBRARY;[128]--from which his Annals of the Aldine Press +were chiefly composed--and is withal a man in a great and successful line +of business. I should say he is a rich man; not because he has five hundred +bottles of Burgundy in his cellar, which some may think to be of a more +piquant quality than the like number of his _Alduses_--but because he has +published some very beautiful and expensive editions of the Latin and +French Classics, with equal credit to himself and advantage to his +finances.[129] He _debuted_ with a fine edition of _Lucan_ in 1795, folio; +and the first catalogue of his books was put forth the following year. From +that moment to the present, he has never slackened head, hand, or foot, in +the prosecution of his business; while the publication of his _Annals of +the Aldine Press_ places him among the most skilful and most instructive +booksellers in Europe. It is indeed a masterly performance: and as useful +as it is elegantly printed.[130] M. Renouard is now occupied in an improved +edition of _Voltaire_, which he means to adorn with engravings; and of +which he shewed me the original drawings by Moreau, with many of the +plates.[131] He seems in high spirits about the success of it, and leans +with confidence upon the strength of a host of subscribers. Nor does a +rival edition, just struggling into day, cause him to entertain less +sanguine expectations of final success. This enterprising bookseller is now +also busily occupied about a _Descriptive Catalogue of his own library_, in +which he means to indulge himself in sundry gossipping notes, critical +disquisitions, and piquant anecdotes. I look forward with pleasure to its +appearance; and turn a deaf ear to the whispers which have reached me of an +intended _brush_ at the Decameron.[132] + +M. Renouard has allowed me free access to his library; which also contains +some very beautiful copies of books printed in the fifteenth century. Among +these latter, his VELLUM VALDARFER is of course considered, by himself and +his friends, as the _keimelion_ of the collection. It is the edition of the +_Orations of Cicero_, printed by Valdarfer, at Venice, in 1471, folio: a +most exquisite book--which may be fairly considered as perfect throughout. +It is in its second binding, but _that_ may be as old as the time of +Francis I.: perhaps about the middle of the sixteenth century. This copy +measures thirteen inches in height, by eight inches and seven-eighths in +width:--almost, I conceive, in its original state of amplitude. I will +frankly own that I turned over the leaves of this precious book, again and +again--"sighed and looked, &c." "But would no price tempt the owner to part +with it?" "None. It is reserved as the bijou of my catalogue, and departs +not from hence." Severe, but just decree! There is only one other known +copy of it upon vellum, which is in the Royal Library[133]--but which wants +a leaf of the table; an imperfection, not belonging to the present copy. + +The other "great guns," as VELLUM BOOKS, in the collection of M. Renouard, +are what is called the _Familiar Epistles of Cicero_ printed by _Aldus_ in +1502, 12mo: and the _Petrarch_ of 1514, 8vo. also printed by Aldus. Of +these, the _latter_ is by much the preferable volume. It is almost as large +as it can well be: but badly bound in red morocco.[134] The Cicero is short +and sallow-looking. It was on the occasion of his son starting for the +first time on a bibliographical tour, and, on crossing the Rhine, and +finding this Cicero and the almost equally rare _Aldine Virgil_ of 1505, +that a relation of this "fortunate youth" invoked his muse in some few +verses, which he printed and gave to me.[135] These are little +"plaisanteries" which give a relish to our favourite pursuits; and which +may at some future day make the son transcend the father in bibliographical +renown. Perhaps the father has already preferred a prayer upon the subject, +as thus: + + [Greek: Zeu, alloi te Theoi, dote dê kai tonde genesthai + Paid emon ôs kai egô per, ....] + +There are some few noble volumes, from the press of _Sweynheym and +Pannartz_, in this collection; and the finest copy of the FIRST LUCIAN in +Greek, which perhaps any where exists.[136] It was obtained at a recent +sale, (where it was coated in a lapping-over vellum surtout) at a pretty +smart price; and has been recently clothed in blue morocco. M. Renouard has +also some beautiful copies from the library of _De Thou_, and a partly +uncut _Aldine Theophrastus_ of 1497, which belonged to Henry the Second and +Diane de Poictiers; as well as a completely uncut copy of the first _Aldine +Aristotle_.[137] Few men probably have been luckier in obtaining several of +their choice articles; and the little anecdotes which he related to me, are +such as I make no doubt will appear in the projected catalogue raisonné of +his library. He is just now briskly engaged in the pursuit of _uncut +Elzevirs_ ... and coming to breakfast with me, the other morning, he must +needs pick up a beautiful copy of this kind, in two small volumes, neatly +half bound, (of which I have forgotten the title,) and of which he had been +for some time in the pursuit. M. Renouard also took occasion to tell me +that, in his way to my chambers, he had sold, or subscribed, of a +forthcoming work to be published by him--just _nine hundred and ninety-nine +copies!_ Of course, after such a _trouvaille_ and such a subscription, he +relished his breakfast exceedingly. He is a man of quick movements, of +acute perceptions, of unremitting ardour and activity of mind and body-- +constantly engaged in his business, managing a very extensive +correspondence, and personally known to the most distinguished Collectors +of Italy. Like his neighbours, he has his country-house, or rather farm, in +Picardy[138] whither he retires, occasionally to view the condition and +growing strength of that species of animal, from the backs of which his +beloved Aldus of old, obtained the _matériel_ for his vellum copies. But it +is time to wish M. Renouard a good morning, and to take you with me to his +neighbour-- + +MONS. BRUNET, THE YOUNGER. This distinguished bibliographer, rather than +bookseller, lives hard by--in the _Rue Gît-Le-Coeur_. He lives with his +father, who superintends the business of the shop. The Rue Gît-Le-Coeur is +a sorry street--very diminutive, and a sort of cropt copy--to what it +should have been, or what it might have been. However, there lives JACQ. +CH. BRUNET, FILS: a writer, who will be known to the latest times in the +bibliographical world. He will be also thanked as well as known; for his +_Manuel du Libraire_ is a performance of incomparable utility to all +classes of readers and collectors. You mount up one pair of stairs:--the +way is gloomy, and might well lead to a chamber in the monastery of La +Trappe. You then read an incription, which tells you that "in turning the +button you pull the bell." The bell sounds, and _Mons. Brunet, Pere_, +receives you--with, or without, a silken cap upon his head. He sits in a +small room, sufficiently well filled with books. "Is the Son at home?" +"Open that door, Sir, you will find him in the next room." The door is +immediately opened--and there sits the son, surrounded by, and almost +imprisoned in, papers and books. His pen is in his hand: his spectacles are +upon his nose: and he is transcribing or re-casting some precious little +bit of bibliographical intelligence; while, on looking up and receiving +you, he seems to be "full of the labouring God!" In short, he is just now +deeply and unintermittingly engaged in a new and _third_ edition of his +_Manuel_.[139] The shelves of his room almost groan beneath the weight of +those writers from whom he gathers his principal materials. "Vous voilà, +Mons. Brunet, bien occupé!;" "Oui, Monsieur, cela me fait autant de plaisir +que de peine." + +This is a very picture of the man.... "The labour we delight in physics +pain,"--said Lady Macbeth of old; and of a most extraordinary kind must the +labour of Mons. Brunet be considered, when the pleasure in the prosecution +of it balances the pain. We talked much and variously at our first +interview: having previously interchanged many civilities by letter, and +myself having been benefitted by such correspondence, in the possession of +a _large paper_ copy of his first edition--of which he was pleased to make +me a present, and of which only twenty copies were struck off. I told him +that I had given Charles Lewis a carte blanche for its binding, and that I +would back _his_ skill--the result of such an order--against any binding at +that time visible in any quarter of Paris! Mons. B. could not, in his +heart, have considered any other binding superior. + +He told me, somewhat to my astonishment, and much to my gratification, +that, of the first edition of his _Manuel_, he had printed and sold _two +thousand_ copies. This could never have been done in our country: because, +doubting whether it would have been so accurately printed, it could never +have been published, in the same elegant manner, for the same price. The +charges of our printers would have been at least double. In the +typographical execution of it, M. Crapelet has almost outdone himself. +Reverting to the author, I must honestly declare that he has well merited +all he has gained, and will well merit all the gains which are in store for +him. His application is severe, constant, and of long continuance. He +discards all ornament,[140] whether graphic or literary. He is never +therefore digressive; having only a simple tale to tell, and that tale +being almost always _well_ and _truly_ told.[141] In his opinions, he is +firm and rational, and sometimes a little pugnacious in the upholding of +them. But he loves only to breathe in a bibliographical element, and is +never happier than when he has detected some error, or acquired some new +information; especially if it relate to an _Editio Princeps_.[142] There is +also something very naïf and characteristic in his manner and conversation. +He copies no one; and may be said to be a citizen of the world. In short, +he has as little _nationality_ in his opinions and conversation, as any +Frenchman with whom I have yet conversed. + +Thus much for the leading booksellers of Paris on the south side of the +Seine: or, indeed, I may say in the whole city. But, because the south is a +warm and genial aspect in the bringing forth of all species of productions, +it does not necessarily follow that ... there should be _no_ bibliopolistic +vegetation on the _north_ side of the Seine. Prepare therefore to be +introduced to MONS. CHARDIN, in the _Rue St. Anne_, no. 19; running nearly +at right angles with the _Rue St. Honoré_, not far from the _Eglise St. +Roq._ M. Chardin is the last surviving remains of the OLD SCHOOL of +booksellers in Paris; and as I love antiquities of almost all kinds, I love +to have a little occasional gossip with M. Chardin. A finer old man, with a +more characteristic physiognomy, hath not appeared in France from the time +of Gering downwards. M. Chardin is above the mean height; is usually +attired in a rocquelaure; and his fine flowing grey locks are usually +surmounted by a small black silk cap. His countenance is penetrating, but +mild: and he has a certain air of the "Old School" about him, which is +always, to my old-fashioned taste, interesting and pleasing. + +In his youth he must have been handsome, and his complexion is yet +delicate. But good old M. Chardin is an oddity in his way. He physics +"according to the book"--that is, according to the Almanack; although I +should think he had scarcely one spare ounce of blood in his veins. +Phlebotomy is his "dear delight." He is always complaining, and yet expects +to be always free from complaint. But Madame will have it so, and Monsieur +is consenting. He lives on the floor just above the entresol, and his two +or three small apartments are gaily furnished with books. The interior is +very interesting; for his chief treasures are locked up within glazed +cabinets, which display many a rich and rare article. These cabinets are +beautifully ornamented: and I do assure you that it is but justice to their +owner to say, that they contain many an article which does credit to his +taste. + +This taste consists principally in a love of ornamented MSS. and printed +books UPON VELLUM, in general very richly bound.[143] It is scarcely seven +years ago since M. Chardin published an octavo catalogue, of nearly two +hundred pages, of MSS. and printed books ... all upon vellum. He has been +long noted for rarities of this kind. "Il n'y a que des livres rares" is +his constant exclamation--as you open his glazed doors, and stretch forth +your hand to take down his treasures. He is the EDWARDS of France, but upon +a smaller scale of action. Nor does he push his _wares_, although he does +his _prices_. You may buy or not, but you must _pay_ for what you _do_ buy. +There is another oddity about this courteous and venerable bibliopolist. He +has a great passion for making his _Alduses_ perfect by means of +_manuscript_; and I must say, that, supposing this plan to be a good one, +he has carried it into execution in a surprisingly perfect manner: for you +can scarcely, by candle-light, detect the difference between what is +printed and what is executed with a pen. I think it was the whole of the +_Scholia_ attached to the Aldine _Discorides_, in folio, and a great number +of leaves in the _Grammatical Institutes of Urbanus_, of 1497, 4to. with +several other smaller volumes, which I saw thus rendered perfect: How any +scribe can be sufficiently paid for such toil, is to me inconceivable: and +how it can answer the purpose of any bookseller so to complete his copies, +is also equally unaccountable: for be it known, that good M. Chardin leaves +_you_ to make the _discovery_ of the MS. portion; and when you _have_ made +it,--he innocently subjoins--"Oui, Monsieur, n'est il pas beau?" In a sort +of passage, between his principal shew-room and his bed room, is contained +a very large collection of tracts and printed volumes relating to the FAIR +SEX: being, in fact, nothing less than a prodigious heap of publications +"FOR and AGAINST" the ladies. M. Chardin will not separate them--adding +that the "bane and antidote must always go together." + +This singular character is also vehemently attached to antiquarian +_nick-knackery_. Old china, old drawings, old paintings, old carvings, and +old relics--of whatever kind--are surveyed by him with a curious eye, and +purchased with a well-laden purse. He never speaks of GOUJIN but in +raptures. We made an exchange the other day. M. Chardin hath no small +variety of walking canes. He visited me at the Hôtel one morning, leaning +upon a fine dark bamboo-stick, which was _headed_ by an elaborately carved +piece of ivory--the performance of the said Goujon. It consisted of a +recumbent female, (with a large flapped hat on) of which the head was +supported by a shield of coat armour.[144] We struck a bargain in five +minutes. He presented me the _stick_, on condition of my presenting him +with a choice copy of the _Ædes Althorpianæ_. We parted well satisfied with +each other; but I suspect that the purchase of about four-score pounds +worth of books, added much to the satisfaction on his part. Like all his +brethren of the same craft, M. Chardin disports himself on Saturdays and +Sundays at his little "ferme ornée," within some four miles of Paris-- +having, as he gaily told me "nothing now to do but to make poesies for the +fair sex."[145] + +With Chardin I close my bibliopolistic narrative; not meaning thereby to +throw other booksellers into the least degree of shade, but simply to +transmit to you an account of such as I have seen and have transacted +business with. And now, prepare for some account of PRINTERS ... or rather +of _three presses_ only,--certainly the most distinguished in Paris. I mean +those of the DIDOT and that of M. CRAPELET. The name of Didot will last as +long as learning and taste shall last in any quarter of the globe: nor am I +sure, after all, that what _Bodoni, Bensley_, and _Bulmer_ have done, +collectively, has redounded _more_ to the credit of their countries than +what Didot has achieved for France. In ancient classical literature, +however, Bodoni has a right to claim an exception and a superiority. The +elder, _Pierre Didot_, is Printer to his Majesty. But when Pierre Didot +l'ainé chose to adopt his _own_ fount of letter--how exquisitely does his +skill appear in the folio _Virgil_ of 1798, and yet more, perhaps, in the +folio Horace of 1799!? These are books which never have been, and never +_can_ be, eclipsed. Yet I own that the Horace, from the enchanting +vignettes of _Percier_, engraved by Girardais, is to my taste the +preferable volume.[146] + +FIRMIN DIDOT now manages the press in the _Rué Jacob;_ and if he had never +executed any thing but the _Lusiad_ of _Camoens_, his name would be worthy +to go down to posterity by the side of that of his uncle. The number of +books printed and published by the Didots is almost incredible; especially +of publications in the Latin and French languages. Of course I include the +_Stereotype_ productions: which are very neat and very commodious--but +perhaps the page has rather too dazzling an effect. I paid a visit the +other day to the office of Firmin Didot; who is a letter founder "as well +as a printer.[147] To a question which I asked the nephew, (I think) +respecting the number of copies and sizes, of the famous _Lusiad_ just +mentioned, he answered, that there were only _two hundred_ copies, and +those only of _one size_. Let that suffice to comfort those who are in +terror of having the small paper, and to silence such as try to depreciate +the value of the book, from the supposed additional number of copies struck +off. + +I wished to know the costs and charges of _printing_, &c.--from which the +comparative price of labour in the two countries might be estimated. M. +Didot told me that the entire charges for printing, and pulling, one +thousand copies of a full octavo size volume--containing thirty lines in a +page, in a middle-size-letter--including _every thing_ but _paper_--was +thirty-five francs per sheet. I am persuaded that such a thing could not be +done at home under very little short of double the price:--whether it be +that our printers, including the most respectable, are absolutely more +extravagant in their charges, or that the wages of the compositors are +double those which are given in France. + +After Didot, comes CRAPELET--in business, skill, and celebrity. He is +himself a very pleasant, unaffected man; scarcely thirty-six; and likely, +in consequence, to become the richest printer in Paris. I have visited him +frequently, and dined with him once--when he was pleased to invite some +agreeable, well-informed, and gentlemanly guests to meet me. Among them was +a M. REY, who has written "_Essais Historiques et Critiques sur Richard +III. Roi d'Angleterre_," just printed in a handsome octavo volume by our +Host. Our conversation, upon the whole; was mixed; agreeable, and +instructive. Madame Crapelet, who is at this moment (as I should +conjecture) perhaps pretty equally divided between her twenty-fifth and +twenty-sixth year, and who may be classed among the prettier ladies of +Paris, did the honours of the fête in a very agreeable manner: nor can it +be a matter of surprise that the choicest Chambertin and Champagne sparkled +upon the table of _one_--who, during the libations of his guests; had the +tympans and friskets of _twenty-two Presses_ in full play![148] We retired, +after dinner, into a spacious drawing room to coffee and liqueurs: and +anon, to a further room, wherein was a BOOK-CASE filled by some of the +choicest specimens of the press of its owner, as well as of other +celebrated printers. I have forgotten what we took down or what we +especially admired: but, to a question respecting the _present_ state of +business, as connected with _literature_ and _printing_, at Paris, M. +Crapelet replied (as indeed, if I remember rightly, M. Didot did also) that +"matters never went on better." Reprints even of old authors were in +agitation: and two editions of _Montaigne_ were at that moment going on in +his own house. I complimented M. Crapelet--and with equal sincerity and +justice--upon the typographical execution of M. Brunet's _Manuel du +Libraire_. No printer in our own country, could have executed it more +perfectly. "What might have been the charge per sheet?" My host received +the compliment very soberly and properly; and gave me a general item about +the expense of printing and paper, &c., which really surprised me; and +returned it with a warm eulogy upon the paper and press-work of a recent +publication from the _Shakspeare press_--which, said he, "I despair of +excelling." "And then (added he), your prettily executed vignettes, and +larger prints! In France this branch of the art is absolutely not +understood[149]--and besides, we cannot publish books at _your_ prices!" + +We must now bid adieu to the types of M. Crapelet below stairs, and to his +"good cheer" above; and with him take our leave of Parisian booksellers and +printers.[150] What then remains, in the book way, worthy of especial +notice? Do you ask this question? I will answer it in a +trice--BOOK-BINDING. Yes ... some few hours of my residence in this +metropolis have been devoted to an examination of this _seductive_ branch +of book commerce. And yet I have not seen--nor am I likely to see--one +single binder: either _Thouvenin, or Simier, or Braidel, or Lesné_. I am +not sure whether Courteval, or either of the Bozérians, be living: but +their _handy works_ live and are lauded in every quarter of Paris. + +The restorer, or the Father, (if you prefer this latter appellative) of +modern Book-binding in France, was the Elder Bozérian: of whose productions +the book-amateurs of Paris are enthusiastically fond. Bozérian undoubtedly +had his merits;[151] but he was fond of gilt tooling to excess. His +ornaments are too minute and too profuse; and moreover, occasionally, very +unskilfully worked. His choice of morocco is not always to my taste; while +his joints are neither carefully measured, nor do they play easily; and his +linings are often gaudy to excess. He is however hailed as the legitimate +restorer of that taste in binding, which delighted the purchasers in the +Augustan age of book-collecting. One merit must not be denied him: his +boards are usually square, and well measured. His volumes open well, and +are beaten ... too unmercifully. It is the reigning error of French +binders. They think they can never beat a book sufficiently. They exercise +a tyranny over the leaves, as bad as that of eastern despots over their +prostrate slaves. Let them look a little into the bindings of those volumes +before described by me, in the lower regions of the Royal Library[152]--and +hence learn, that, to hear the leases crackle as they are turned over, +produces _nearly_ as much comfort to the thorough-bred collector, as does +the prattling of the first infant to the doating parent. + +THOUVENIN[153] and SIMIER are now the morning and evening stars in the +bibliopegistic hemisphere. Of these, Thouvenin makes a higher circle in the +heavens; but Simier shines with no very despicable lustre. Their work is +good, substantial, and pretty nearly in the same taste. The folio Psalter +of 1502, (I think) in the Royal Library, is considered to be the _ne plus +ultra_ of modern book-binding at Paris; and, if I mistake not, Thouvenin is +the artist in whose charcoal furnace, the tools, which produced this +_êchantillon_, were heated. I have no hesitation in saying, that, +considered as an extraordinary specimen of art, it is a failure. The +ornaments are common place; the lining is decidedly bad; and there is a +clumsiness of finish throughout the whole. The head-bands--as indeed are +those of Bozérian--are clumsily managed: and I may say that it exhibits a +manifest inferiority even to the productions of Mackinlay, Hering, Clarke, +and Fairbairn. Indeed either of these artists would greatly eclipse it. I +learn that Thouvenin keeps books in his possession as long as does a +_certain_ binder with us--- who just now shall be nameless. Of course +Charles Lewis would smile complacently if you talked to _him_ about +rivalling such a performance![154] + +There is a book-binder of the name of LESNÉ--just now occupied, as I learn, +in writing a poem upon his Art[155]--who is also talked of as an artist of +respectable skill. They say, however, that he _writes_ better than he +_binds_. So much the worse for his little ones, if he be married. Indeed +several very sensible and impartial collectors, with whom I have +discoursed, also seem to think that the art of book-binding in France is +just now, if not retrograding, at least stationary--and apparently +incapable of being carried to a higher pitch of excellence. I doubt this +very much. They can do what they have done before. And no such great +conjuration is required in going even far beyond it. Let Thouvenin and +Simier, and even the _Poet_ himself, examine carefully the choice of tools, +and manner of gilding, used by our more celebrated binders, and they need +not despair of rivalling them. Above all, let them look well to the +management of the backs of their books, and especially to the headbands. +The latter are in general heavy and inelegant. Let them also avoid too much +choking and beating, (I use technical words--- which you understand as well +as any French or English bookbinder) and especially to be square, even, and +delicate in the bands; and the "Saturnia regna" of book-binding in France +may speedily return. + + +[121] _Bibliomania_; p. 79. _Bibliographical Decameron_; vol. i. + p. xxii. + +[122] See the _Bibliographical Decameron_; vol. ii. p. 20. + +[123] [Consistently with the plan intended to be pursued in this edition, I + annex a fac-simile of their autograph.] + + [Illustration] + +[124] [Madame Debure died a few years ago at an advanced age.] + +[125] [Mr. Hibbert obtained this volume from me, which will be sold at the + sale of his Library in the course of this season.] + +[126] [Nothing can be more perfectly ridiculous and absurd than the manner + in which M. Crapelet flies out at the above expression! He taunts us, + poor English, with always drawing comparisons against other nations, + in favour of the splendour and opulence of our own Hospitals and + Charitable Foundations--a thought, that never possessed me while + writing the above, and which would require the peculiar obliquity, or + perversity of talents, of my translator to detect. I once thought of + _dissecting_ his petulant and unprovoked note--but it is not worth + blunting the edge of one's pen in the attempt.] + +[127] [In a few years afterwards, the body of the husband of Madame + Treuttel was consigned to _this_, its _last_ earthly resting-place. M. + JEAN-GEORGE TREUTTEL, died on the 14th Dec. 1825, not long after the + completion of his 82d year: full of years, full of reputation, and + credit, and of every sublunary comfort, to soothe those who survived + him. I have before me a printed Memoir of his Obsequies--graced by the + presence and by the orations of several excellent Ministers of the + Lutheran persuasion: by all the branches of his numerous family; and + by a great concourse of sympathising neighbours. Few citizens of the + world, in the largest sense of this expression, have so adorned the + particular line of life in which they have walked; and M. Treuttel was + equally, to his country and to his family, an ornament of a high cast + of character. "O bon et vertueux ami, que ne peut tu voir les regrets + de tous ceux qui t' accompagnent à ta derniere demeure, pour te dire + encore une fois à REVOIR!" _Discours_ de M. COMARTIN _Maire de + Groslai_: Dec. 17.] + +[128] ["Delightful" as was this Library, the thought of the money for which + it might sell, seems to have been more delightful. The sale of it-- + consisting of 1028 articles--took place in the spring of last year, + under the hammer of Mr. Evans; and a surprisingly prosperous sale it + was. I would venture to stake a good round sum, that no one individual + was _more_ surprized at this prosperous result than the OWNER of the + Library himself. The gross produce was £2704. 1s. The net produce was + such... as ought to make that said owner grateful for the spirit of + competition and high liberality which marked the biddings of the + purchasers. In what country but OLD ENGLAND could such a spirit have + been manifested! Will Mons. Renouard, in consequence, venture upon the + transportation of the _remaining_ portion of his Library hither? There + is a strong feeling that he _will_. With all my heart--but let him + beware of his MODERN VELLUMS!!] + +[129] [I shall _now_ presume to say, that M. Renouard is a "VERY rich + man;" and has by this time added _another_ 500 bottles of + high-flavoured Burgundy to his previous stock. The mention of M. + Renouard's Burgundy has again chafed M. Crapelet: who remarks, that + "it is useless to observe how ridiculous such an observation is." Then + why _dwell_ upon it--and why quote three verses of Boileau to bolster + up your vapid prose, Mons. G.A. Crapelet.?] + +[130] [The _second_ edition of this work, greatly enlarged and + corrected, appeared in 1825, in 3 volumes: printed very elegantly at + the son's (Paul Renouard's) office. Of this improved edition, the + father was so obliging as to present me with a copy, accompanied by a + letter, of which I am sure that its author will forgive the quotation + of its conclusion--to which is affixed his autograph. "Quoiqu'il en + soit, je vous prie de vouloir bien l'agréer comme un témoignage de nos + anciennes liaisons, et d'être bien persuadé du dévouement sincere et + amical avec lequel je n'ai jamais cessé d'être. + + Votre très humble Serviteur, + + [Autograph: AulAug. Renouard] + +[131] [Now completed in 60 volumes 8vo.: and the most copious and correct + of ALL the editions of the author. It is a monument, as splendid as + honourable, of the Publisher's spirit of enterprise. For particulars, + consult the _Library Companion_, p. 771, edit. 1824.] + +[132] The year following the above description, the Catalogue, alluded to, + made its appearance under the title of "_Catalogue de la Bibliothèque + d'un Amateur_," in four not _very_ capacious octavo volumes: printed + by CRAPELET, who finds it impossible to print--_ill_. I am very glad + such a catalogue has been published; and I hope it will be at once a + stimulus and a model for other booksellers, with large and curious + stocks in hand, to do the same thing. But I think M. Renouard might + have conveniently got the essentials of his bibliographical gossipping + into _two_ volumes; particularly as, in reading such a work, one must + necessarily turn rapidly over many leaves which contain articles of + comparatively common occurrence, and of scarcely common interest. It + is more especially in regard to _modern_ French books, of which he + seems to rejoice and revel in the description--(see, among other + references, vol. iii. p. 286-310) that we may be allowed to regret + such dilated statements; the more so, as, to the fastidious taste of + the English, the engravings, in the different articles described, have + not the beauty and merit which are attached to them by the French. Yet + does M. Renouard narrate pleasantly, and write elegantly. + + In regard to the "_brush_ at the Decameron," above alluded to, I read + it with surprise and pleasure--on the score of the moderate tone of + criticism which it displayed--and shall wear it in my hat with as much + triumph as a sportsman does a "brush" of a different description! Was + it _originally_ more _piquan?_ I have reason not only to suspect, but + to know, that it WAS. Be this as it may, I should never, in the first + place, have been backward in returning all home thrusts upon the + aggressor--and, in the second place, I am perfectly disposed that my + work may stand by the test of such criticism. It is, upon the whole, + fair and just; and _justice_ always implies the mention of _defects_ + as well as of excellencies. It may, however, be material to remark, + that the _third_ volume of the Decameron is hardly amenable to the + tribunal of French criticism; inasmuch as the information which it + contains is almost entirely national--and therefore partial in its + application. + +[133] [Not so. Messrs. Payne and Foss once shewed me a yet _larger_ + copy of it upon vellum, than even M. Renouard's: but so many of the + leaves had imbibed an indelible stain, which no skill could eradicate, + that it was scarcely a saleable article. It was afterwards bought by + Mr. Bohn at a public auction.] + +[134] [It was sold at the Sale of his Aldine Library for £68. 15s. 8d. and + is now, I believe, in the fine Collection of Sir John Thorold, Bart, + at Syston Park. The Cicero did not come over for sale.] + +[135] [In the previous edition I had supposed, erroneously, that it was the + Father, M. Renouard himself, who had invoked his name on the occasion. + The verses are pretty enough, and may as well find a place _here_ + as in M. Crapelet's performance. + + Je l'ai vu ce fameux bouquin + Qui te fait un titre de gloire: + Tout Francois qui passe le Rhin + Doit remporter une Victoire.] + + +[136] [M. Renouard obtained it at a public sale in Paris, against a very + stiff commission left for it by myself. A copy of equal beauty is in + the Library of the Right Hon. T. Grenville.] + +[137] [The Theophrastus was sold for £12 1s. 6d. and the Aristotle for £40. + The latter is in the Library of the Rt. Hon. T. Grenville, having been + subsequently coated in red morocco by C. Lewis.] + +[138] [It seems that I have committed a very grave error, in the preceding + edition, by making Mons. Renouard "superintend the gathering in of his + VINTAGE," at his country-house (St. Valerie) whereas there are no + Vineyards in Picardy. France and Wine seemed such synonymes, that I + almost naturally attached a vineyard to every country villa.] + +[139] [It was published in 1820.] + +[140] "The luxurious English Bibliographer is astonished at the publication + of the "Manuel" without the accompaniment of Plates, Fac-similes, + Vignettes, and other graphic attractions. It is because _intrinsic + merit_ is preferable to form and ornament: _that_ at once establishes + its worth and its success." CRAPELET, vol. iv. p. 88. This amiable + Translator and sharp-sighted Critic never loses an opportunity of a + _fling_ at the "luxurious English Bibliographer!" + +[141] [My translator again brandishes his pen in order to draw + _good-natured_ comparisons. "It would be lucky for him, if, to the + qualities he possesses, M. Dibdin would unite those which he praises + in M. Brunet: his work and the public would be considerable gainers by + it: his books would not be so costly, and would be more profitable. + The English Author describes nothing in a _sang-froid_ manner: he is + for ever _charging_: and, as he does not want originality in his + vivacity, he should seem to wish to be the CALLOT of Bibliography." + CRAPELET. _Ibid_. I accept the title with all my heart.] + +[142] When he waited upon Lord Spencer at Paris, in 1819, and was shewn by + his Lordship the _Ulric Han Juvenal_ (in the smallest character of the + printer) and the _Horace_ of 1474, by _Arnoldus de Bruxella_, his + voice, eyes, arms, and entire action ... gave manifest proofs how he + FELT upon the occasion! [It only remains to dismiss this slight and + inadequate account of so amiable and well-versed a bibliographer, with + the ensuing-fac-simile of his autograph.] + + [Autograph: Brunet, Libraire, rue Gît-le-Couer, No 10.] + +[143] + + Chardin passe surtout parmi les amateurs + Pour le plus vétilleux de tous les connaisseurs; + Il fait naître, encourage, anime l'industrie; + LES BEAUX LIVRES font seul le CHARME DE SA VIE. + LA RELIURE, _poëme didactique_. + Par LESNE'. 1820, 8vo. p. 31. + +[144] [This curiosity is now in the limited, but choice and curious, + collection of my old and very worthy friend Mr. Joseph Haslewood. The + handle of the stick is decorated by a bird's head, in ivory, which I + conjectured to be that of an _Eagle_; but my friend insisted upon it + that it was the head of an _Hawk_. I knew what this _meant_--and what + it would _end_ in: especially when he grasped and brandished the Cane, + as if he were convinced that the sculptor had anticipated the + possession of it by the Editor of Juliana Barnes. It is whispered that + my friend intends to surprise the ROXBURGHE CLUB (of which he is, in + all respects a most efficient member) with proofs of an _Engraving_ of + this charming little piece of old French carving.] + +[145] Mons. Chardin is since dead at a very advanced age. His mental + faculties had deserted him a good while before his decease: and his + decease was gentle and scarcely perceptible. The portrait of him, in + the preceding edition of this work, is literally the MAN HIMSELF. M. + Crapelet has appended one very silly, and one very rude, if not + insulting, note, to my account of the deceased, which I will not + gratify him by translating, or by quoting in its original words. + +[146] [A copy of the Horace UPON VELLUM (and I believe, the _only_ + one) with the original drawings of Percier, will be sold in the + library of Mr. Hibbert, during the present season.] + +[147] ["And unquestionably the best Letter Founder. His son, M. Amb. Firmin + Didot; who has for a long time past cut the punches for his father, + exhibits proof of a talent worthy, of his instructor." CRAPELET.] + +[148] [The translation of the above passage runs so smoothly and so evenly + upon "all fours," that the curious reader may be gratified by its + transcription: "On ne doit pas être surpris que le meilleur vin de + Champagne et de Chambertin ait été servi sur la tablé de celui qui, au + milieu des toasts de ses convives, avait pour accompagnement le bruit + agréable. des frisquettes et des tympans de vingt-deux presses.".Vol. + ii. 102.] + +[149] ["Would one not suppose that I had told M. Dibdin that it was + impossible for the French to execute as fine plates as the English? If + so, I should stand alone in that opinion. I only expatiated on the + beauty of the wood-cut vignettes which adorn many volumes of the 4to. + Shakspeare by Bulmer. (N.B. Mr. Bulmer never printed a Shakspeare in + 4to. or with wood cuts; but Mr. Bensley _did_--in an 8vo. form.) Their + execution is astonishing. Wood engraving, carried to such a pitch of + excellence in England, is, in fact, very little advanced in France: + and on this head I agree with M. Dibdin." CRAPELET, iv. 104.] + +[150] ["How can M. Dibdin forget the respect due to his readers, to give + them a recital of dinners, partaken of at the houses of private + persons, as if he were describing those of a tavern? How comes it that + he was never conscious of the want of good taste and propriety of + conduct, to put the individuals, of whom he was speaking, into a sort + of dramatic form, and even the MISTTRESSES OF THE HOUSE! CRAPELET: + Vol. iv. 106. I have given as unsparing a version as I could (against + myself) in the preceding extract; but the _sting_ of the whole matter, + as affecting M. Crapelet, may be drawn from the concluding words. And + yet, where have I spoken ungraciously and uncourteously of Madame?] + +[151] [_Bozérian undoubtedly had his merits_.]--Lesné has been + singularly lively in describing the character of Bozérian's binding. + In the verse ... + + Il dit, et secouant le joug de la manie.... + + he appears to have been emulous of rivalling the strains, of the Epic + Muse; recalling, as it were, a sort of Homeric scene to our + recollection: as thus--of Achilles rushing to fight, after having + addressed his horses: + + [Greek: E ra, kai en prôtois iachôn eche mônuchas hippos] + +[152] Some account of French bookbinders may be also found in the + _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. ii. p. 496-8. + +[153] Cependant Thouvenin est un de ces hommes extraordinaires qui, + semblables à ces _corps lumineux_ que l'on est convenu d'appeler + _cometes_, paraissent une fois en un siècle. Si, plus ambitieux de + gloire que de fortune, il continue à, se surveiller; si, moins ouvrier + qu'artiste, il s'occupe sans relache du perfectionnement de la + reliure, il fera époque dans son art comme ces grands hommes que nous + admirons font époque dans la littérature. p. 117. + +[154] [In the year 1819, Lord Spencer sent over to the Marquis de + Chateaugiron, a copy of the _Ovid De Tristilus, translated by + Churchyard_, 1578, 4to. (his contribution to the Roxburghe Club) as a + present from ONE President of Bibliophiles to ANOTHER. It was bound by + Lewis, in his very best style, in morocco, with vellum linings, within + a broad border of gold, and all other similar seductive adjuncts. + Lewis considered it as a CHALLENGE to the whole bibliopegistic + fraternity at Paris:--a sort of book-gauntlet;--thrown down for the + most resolute champion to pick up--if he dare! Thouvenin, Simier, + Bozérian (as has been intimated to me) were convened on the + occasion:--they looked at the gauntlet: admired and feared it: but no + man durst pick it up! + + Obstupuere animi:---- + + Ante omnes stupet ipse Dares[D].... + + In other words, the Marquis de Chateaugiron avowed to me that it was + considered to be the _ne plus ultra_ of the art. What say you to + this, Messrs. Lesné and Crapelet? + + [D] _Thouvenin_. + +[155] This poem appeared early in the year 1820, under the following title. + "_La Reliure, poème didactique en six chants_; précédé d'une idée + analytique de cet art, suivi de notes historiques et critiques, et + d'un Mémoire soumis à la Société d'Encouragement, ainsi qu'au Jury + d'exposition de 1819, relatif à des moyens de perfectionnement, + propres à retarder le renouvellement des reliures. PAR LESNÉ. Paris, + 1820. 8vo. pp. 246. The motto is thus: + + Hâtez-vous lentement, et sans perdre courage, + Vingt fois sur le métier remettez votre ouvrage; + Polissez-le sans cesse et le repolissez. + + _Boileau Art. Poét._ ch. 1. + + This curious production is dedicated to the Author's Son: his first + workman; seventeen years of age; and "as knowing, in his business at + that early period of life as his father was at the age of + twenty-seven." The dedication is followed by a preface, and an + advertisement, or "Idée analytique de la Reliure." In the preface, the + author deprecates both precipitate and severe criticism; "He is himself + but a book-binder--and what can be expected from a muse so cultivated?" + He doubts whether it will be read all through; but his aim and object + have been to fix, upon a solid basis, the fundamental principles of + his art. The subject, as treated in the Dictionary of Arts and Trades + by the French Academy, is equally scanty and inaccurate. The author + wishes that all arts were described by artists, as the reader would + gain in information what he would lose in style. "I here repeat (says + he) what I have elsewhere said in bad verse. There are amateur + collectors who know more about book-binding, than even certain good + workmen; but there are also others, of a capricious taste, who are + rather likely to lead half-instructed workmen astray, than to put them + in the proper road." In the poetical epistle which concludes the + preface, he tells us that he had almost observed the Horatian precept: + his poem having cost eight years labour. The opening of it may + probably be quite sufficient to give the reader a proper notion of its + character and merits. + + Je célèbre mon art; je dirai dans mes vers, + Combien il éprouva de changemens divers; + Je dirai ce que fut cet art en sa naissance; + Je dirai ses progrès, et, de sa décadence. + Je nommerai sans fard les ineptes auteurs: + Oui, je vais dérouler aux yeux des amateurs: + Des mauvais procédés la déplorable liste. + Je nommerai le bon et le mauvais artiste; + + + + +_LETTER IX._ + +MEN OF LETTERS. DOM BRIAL. THE ABBÉ BÉTENCOURT. MESSRS. GAIL, MILLIN, AND +LANGÈS. A ROXBURGHE BANQUET. + + +_Paris, June 20, 1818_. + +MY DEAR FRIEND, + +We have had of late the hottest weather in the memory of the oldest +Parisian: but we have also had a few flying thunder showers, which have +helped to cool the air, and to refresh both the earth and its inhabitants. +In consequence, I have made more frequent visits; and have followed up my +morning occupations among BOOKS, by the evening society of those who are so +capable, from their talents, of adding successfully to their number. Among +the most eminent, as well as most venerable of historical antiquaries, is +the celebrated Dom BRIAL, an ex-Benedictin. He lives in the _Rue +Servandoni_, on the second-floor, in the very bosom, as it were, of his +library, and of city solitude. My first visit to him, about three weeks +ago, was fortified by an introductory letter from our friend * * *. The old +gentleman (for he is about seventy four) was busily occupied at his +dinner--about one o'clock; and wearing a silk night cap, and habited en +rocquelaure, had his back turned as his servant announced me. He is very +deaf; but on receiving the letter, and recognising the hand-writing of our +friend, he made me heartily welcome, and begged that I would partake of his +humble fare. This I declined; begging, on the other hand that he would +pursue his present occupation, and allow me to examine his library. "With +the greatest pleasure (replied he); but you will find it a very +common-place one." + +His books occupy each of the four rooms which form the suite of his +dwelling. Of course I include the bed room. They are admirably selected: +chiefly historical, and including a very considerable number in the +ecclesiastical department. He has all the historians relating to our own +country. In short, it is with tools like these, and from original MSS. lent +him from the Royal Library--which his official situation authorizes--- that +he carries on the herculean labour of the _Recueil des Historiens des +Gaules, &c._ commenced by BOUQUET and other editors, and of which he shewed +me a great portion of the XVIIth volume--as well as the commencement of the +XVIIIth--already printed. Providence may be graciously pleased to prolong +the life of this learned and excellent old man till the _latter_ volume be +completed; but _beyond_ that period, it is hardly reasonable or desirable +to wish it; for if he die, he will then have been gathered to his fathers +in a good old age.[156] But the labours of Dom Brial are not confined to +the "Recueil," just mentioned. They shine conspicuous in the "_Histoire +Littéraire de la France_," of which fifteen goodly quarto volumes are +already printed; and they may be also traced in the famous work entitled +_L'Art de, Verifier les Dates_, in three large folio volumes, published in +1783, &c. "Quand il est mort, il n'a point son élevè"[157]--says his old +and intimate friend the ABBÉ BÉTENCOURT; an observation, which, when I +heard it, filled me with mingled regret and surprise--for why is this +valuable, and most _patriotic_ of all departments of literature, neglected +_abroad_ as well as _at home_? It is worth all the _digamma_ disquisitions +in the world; and France, as well as Italy, was once rich in historical +Literati. + +Dom Brial is very little above the mean height. He stoops somewhat from +age; but, considering his years, and incessantly sedentary labours, it is +rather marvellous that he does not exhibit more striking proofs of +infirmity. His voice is full and strong; his memory is yet retentive, and +his judgment sound. His hand-writing is extremely firm and legible. No man +ever lived, or ever will, or can live, more completely devoted to his +labours. They are his meat and drink--as much as his "bouilli et petites +poies:"--of which I saw him partaking on repeated visits. Occupied from +morning till night in the prosecution of his studies--in a quarter of Paris +extremely secluded--he appears to be almost unconscious of passing +occurrences without;[158] except it be of the sittings of the _Institute_, +which he constantly attends, on Fridays, as one of the Secretaries. I have +twice dined with him; and, each time, in company with the Abbé Bétencourt, +his brother Secretary at the Institute; and his old, long-tried, and most +intimate friend. + +The Abbé BÉTENCOURT was not unknown to me during his late residence in +England, as an Emigré: but he is still-better known to our common friend +* * *, who gave me the letter of introduction to Dom Brial. That mutual +knowledge brought us quickly together, and made us as quickly intimate. The +Abbé is above the middle height; wears his own grey hair; has an expressive +countenance, talks much; and well, and at times drolly. Yet his wit or +mirth is well attempered to his years. His manner of _rallying_ his +venerable friend is very amusing; for Dom Brial, from his deafness, (like +most deaf men) drops at times into silence and abstraction. On each of my +dinner-visits, it was difficult to say which was the hotter day. But Dom +Brial's residence, at the hour of dinner, (which was four--for my own +accommodation) happened luckily to be in the _shade_. We sat down, three, +to a small circular table, (in the further or fourth room) on the tiled +floor of which was some very ancient wine, within the immediate grasp of +the right hand of the host. An elderly female servant attended in the +neighbouring room. The dinner was equally simple, relishing, and abundant; +and the virtues of the "old wine" were quickly put into circulation by the +Benedictin founder of the feast. + +At six we rose from table, and walked in the Luxembourg gardens, hard by. +The air had become somewhat cooler. The sun was partially concealed by +thin, speckled clouds: a gentle wind was rising; and the fragrance of +innumerable flowers, from terraces crowded with rose-trees, was altogether +so genial and refreshing, that my venerable companions--between whom I +walked arm in arm--declared that "they hardly knew when the gardens had +smelt so sweetly." We went straight onward--towards the _Observatoire_, the +residence of the Astronomer Royal. In our way thither we could not avoid +crossing the _Rue d' Enfer_, where Marshal Ney was shot. The spot, which +had been stained with his blood, was at this moment covered by skittles, +and groups of stout lads were enjoying themselves in all directions. It +should seem that nothing but youthful sports and pastimes had ever +prevailed there: so insensibly do succeeding occupations wear away all +traces of the past. I paused for half a minute, casting a thoughtful eye +towards the spot. The Abbé Bétencourt moralised aloud, and Dom Brial seemed +inwardly to meditate. We now reached the Observatory. The Sub-Principal was +at home, and was overjoyed to receive his venerable visitors. He was a +fellow-townsman of Dom Brial, and we were shewn every thing deserving of +notice. It was nearly night-fall, when, on reaching the Rue Servandoni, I +wished my amiable companions adieu, till we met again. + +I have before mentioned the name of M. GAIL. Let me devote a little more +time and attention to him. He is, as you have been also previously told, +the curator of the Greek and Latin MSS. in the Royal Library, and a Greek +Professor in the Collège Royale. There is no man, at all alive to a +generous and kind feeling, who can deny M. Gail the merit of a frank, +benevolent, and hearty disposition. His Greek and Latin studies, for the +last thirty-five years, have neither given a severe bias to his judgment, +nor repressed the ebullitions of an ardent and active imagination. His +heart is yet all warmth and kindness. His fulfilment of the duties of his +chair has been exemplary and beneficial; and it is impossible for the most +zealous and grateful of her sons, to have the prosperity of the Collège +Royale more constantly in view, than my friend I.B. Gail has that of the +University of Paris. His labours, as a scholar, have been rather useful +than critical. He has edited _Anacreon_ more than once: and to the +duodecimo edition of 1794, is prefixed a small portrait--medallion-wise--of +the editor; which, from the costume of dress and juvenility of expression, +does not much remind me of the Editor as he now is. M. Gail's great +scholastic work is his Greek, Latin, and French, editions of _Xenophon_ and +_Thucydides_, in twenty-four quarto volumes; but in the execution of this +performance he suffered himself to be rather led astray by the attractions +of the _Bibliomania_. In other words, he chose to indulge in membranaceous +propensities; and nothing would serve M. Gail's turn but he must have a +unique COPY UPON VELLUM! in a quarto form.[159] Twenty four quarto volumes +upon vellum!.. enough to chill the ardour and drain the purse of the most +resolute and opulent publisher. + +When I dined with the Editor, the other day, I was shewn these superb +volumes with all due form and solemnity: and I must say that they do very +great credit to the press of the Elder Didot. Yet I fear that it will be a +long time before the worthy M. Gail is remunerated for his enterprising and +speculative spirit. In all the duties attached to his situation in the +Royal Library, this worthy character is equally correct and commendable. He +is never so fully occupied with old Greek and Latin MSS., but that he will +immediately attend to your wants; and, as much as depends upon himself, +will satisfy them most completely. Anacreon has left behind some little +deposit of good humour and urbanity, which has continued to nourish the +heart of his Translator; for M. Gail is yet jocose, and mirth-loving; fond +of a lively repartee, whether in conversation or in writing. He may count +some sixty-two years. + +But it is high time to introduce you to another of these "Confrères" at the +Bibliothèque du Roi; of whom indeed, hitherto, I have made but a slight +mention. You will readily guess that this must be the well-known AUBIN +LOUIS MILLIN--the Head of the department of Antiquities; or the principal +_Archaeologist_ of the establishment. My friend Mr. Dawson Turner having +furnished me with introductory credentials, I called upon M. Millin within +twenty-four hours of my arrival at Paris. In consequence, from that time to +this, I have had frequent intercourse with him. Indeed I am willing to hope +that our acquaintance has well nigh mellowed into friendship. He is a +short, spare, man; with a countenance lighted up by intelligence rather +than moulded by beauty. But he is evidently just now (and indeed, as I +learn, has been for some time past) labouring under severe indisposition. +He is the thorough Frenchman both in figure and manners: light, cheerful, +active, diligent, and exceedingly good natured and communicative. His +apartments are admirably furnished: and his LIBRARY does him infinite +honour--considering the limited means by which it has been got together. +His abode is the constant resort of foreigners, from all countries, and of +all denominations; and the library is the common property of his friends, +and even of strangers--when they are well recommended to him. + +Millin has been a great traveller; but, if the reports which have reached +me prove true, his second voyage to Italy, recently accomplished, have sown +the seeds of incurable disease in his constitution. Indeed: when I look at +him, at times, I fancy that I discover _that_ in his countenance ... which +I wish were not so palpable ... to my observation. His collection of +drawings, of fac-similes of all descriptions--of prints and of atlasses--is +immense. They are freely laid open to the inspection of any curious +observer: and I have already told you how heartily M. Millin begged that +Mr. Lewis would consider his house as his _home_--for the prosecution of +his drawings from the illuminated MSS. in the Royal Library, when the +regular time of attendance in that place was closed. The other day, we had +a superb déjeuné à la fourchette at M. Millin's--about three o'clock. It +was attended by two Marchionesses, of the _bas bleu_ order; and by the +whole corps of the confrères bibliographiques of the Royal Library. Several +other literary _distingués_ were of the party: and we sat down, a very +agreeable mélange, both to gossip and to eat and drink. M. Langlès was all +animation and all intelligence; and M. Van Praet seemed for a time to have +forgotten VELLUM ARISTOTLES and VIRGILS in alternate libations of champagne +and noyeau. Meanwhile, the worthy Gail, by his playful sallies and +repartees, afforded a striking contrast to the balanced attitude and grave +remarks of the respectable Caperonnier, the senior Librarian. Poor Millin +himself had no appetite, but picked a little here and there. We sat down +about fourteen; rose at six--to coffee and conversazione; and retired +shortly after: some to the theatre, and others to their country houses. +This is pretty nearly a correct picture of the bettermost society of Paris +at this time of the year. + +In regard to the literary reputation of MILLIN, I well know that, in +England, it is rather the fashion to sneer at him; but this sneer may +proceed as often from ignorance, as from superiority of information. The +truth is, M. Millin does _too much_ to do every thing _well_. At one +moment, he is busied with a dyptych: at another, he is examining a coin or +a medal: during the third, he is lost in admiration over a drawing of a +tomb or statue:--his attendant enters with a proof-sheet to engage his +fourth moment--and so it goes on--from sunrise to sunset; with pen in hand, +or blank or printed paper before him, he is constantly occupied in the +pursuit of some archaeological enquiry or other. THIS praise, however--and +no mean or unperishable praise it is--most indisputably belongs to him. He +was almost the ONLY ONE in France; who, during the reign of terror, +bloodshed, and despotism--cherished and kept alive a taste for NATIONAL +ANTIQUITIES. But for _his_ perseverance, and the artists employed by _him_, +we should not now have had those _graphic_ representations of many +buildings, and relics of art, which have since perished irretrievably. +Another praise also belongs to him; of no very insignificant description. +He is among the most obliging and communicative of literary Parisians; and +does not suffer his good nature to be soured, or his activity to abate, +from the influence of _national_ prejudice. He has a large acquaintance +among foreigners; and I really think that he loves the English next best to +his own countrymen. But whoever applies to him with civility, is sure to be +as civilly received. So much for MILLIN.[160] + +This group of literary _whole lengths_ would however be imperfect without +the introduction of Monsieur LANGLÈS. The _forte_ of M. Langlès consists in +his cultivation of, and enthusiastic ardor for, _oriental literature_. He +presides, in fact, over the Persian, Arabic, and other Oriental MSS. and he +performs the duties of his office, as a public librarian, with equal +punctuality and credit. He has also published much upon the languages of +the East, but is considered less profound than DE SACY: although both his +conversation and his library attest his predilection for his particular +studies. M. Langlès is eclipsed by no one for that "gaieté de coeur" which, +when joined with good manners and honourable principles, renders a +well-bred Frenchman an exceedingly desirable companion. He loves also the +arts; as well of sculpture as of painting and of engraving. His further +room affords unquestionable evidence of his attachment to _English Prints_. +Wilson, West, and Wilkie--from the burins of Woollett, Raimbach, and +Burnet--struck my eye very forcibly and pleasingly. M. Langlès admires and +speaks our language. "Your charming Wilkie (says he) pleases me more and +more. Why does he not visit us? He will at least find here some _good +proofs_ of my respect for his talents." Of course he could not mean to pun. +I was then told to admire his impression of Woollett's _Battle of La +Hogue_; and indeed I must allow that it is one of the very best which I +have seen. He who possesses _that_, need not distress himself about any of +the impressions of the _Death of Wolfe_; which is also in the collection of +Langlès. + +His library is probably less extensive than Millin's; but it is not less +choice and valuable. His collection of books (in which are a great number +of our best Voyages and Travels) relating to Asia--and particularly his +philological volumes, as connected with the different languages of that +country, cannot be too much commended. I saw Sir John Malcolm's _History of +Persia_ lying upon his table. "How do you like that work, M. Langlès?" "Sir +(replied he) I more than like it--I love it: because I love the author." In +fact, I knew that Sir John and he were well acquainted with each other, and +I believe that the copy in question bore the distinctive mark of being "ex +dono auctoris." I have had a good deal of interesting conversation with M. +Langlès about the history of books during the Revolution; or rather about +that of the ROYAL LIBRARY. He told me he was appointed one of the +commissioners to attend to the distribution of those countless volumes +which were piled up in different warehouses, as the produce of the +_ransacked monasteries_. I am not sure, whether, within the immediate +neighbourhood of the Royal Library, he did not say that there were at least +_half a million of books_. At that time, every public meeting of +Parisians--whatever might be the professed object--was agitated, and +often furious. One of the red-hot demagogues got up in the assembly, and +advised "mangling, maiming, or burning the books: they were only fit for +cartridges, wadding, or fuel: they were replete with marks of feudalism and +royalty--for they had arms or embellishments on them, which denoted them to +belong to Aristocrats." This speech made some impression: his comrades were +for carrying the motion immediately into execution, by sword and faggot.... +But M. Langlès rose ... calm, collected, and actuated by feelings a little +more accordant with the true spirit of patrotism. "Citizens," said the +Orientalist, "we must not do mischief, in the desire of doing good. Let the +books remain where they are. If you set fire to them, can you say how far +the flames shall extend? Our own great national library, so renowned and +celebrated throughout Europe! may become the prey of the devouring element, +and _then_ how will you be reproached by posterity! Again--if you convert +them to _other_ purposes of destruction, how can you hope to prevent the +same example from being followed in other places? The madness of the +multitude will make no distinction; and as many pikes and swords may be +carried within the great library, as within the various depositories of the +monastic books. Pause awhile. Respect those collections of books, and you +will both respect yourselves and preserve the great national library. In +due time, we shall make a proper selection from them, and enrich the book +stores of the capital!" So spake M. Langlès; and the Assembly assented to +his contre-projet--luckily for Paris and themselves.[161] + +But nearly all these worthy characters, of whom I have just made mention, +had an opportunity of exhibiting their social qualities, of whatever +description, at a sort of FESTIVAL which I gave the other day (last +Wednesday) in honour of the _Roxburghe Club_--which met on that same day, I +presume, at the Clarendon Hotel. This Parisian Roxburghe Banquet went off +upon the whole with flying colours. You shall know as much about it as is +likely to interest you. Having secured my guests, (Messrs. DENON, GAIL, +LANGLÈS, VAN PRAET and MILLIN) and fixed both the place and hour of repast, +I endeavoured to dress out a little bill of fare of a _bibliomaniacal_ +description--to rival, in its way, that of _Mons. Grignon_, in the _Rue +Neuve des Petits Champs_, (within two minutes walk of the Royal Library,) +where we were to assemble, at five o'clock. I knew that Millin would put my +toasts or sentiments into good French, and so I took courage against the +hour of meeting. I had secured a ground-floor apartment, looking upon a +lawn, with which it communicated by open doors. The day was unusually hot +and oppressive. After finishing my labours at the Royal Library, I returned +to my hotel, arranged my little matters connected with the by-play of the +festival--dressed--and resorted to Grignon's. Every thing looked well and +auspiciously. Our room was in the shade; and a few lingering breezes seemed +to play beneath the branches of an acacia. The dark green bottles, of +various tapering shapes, were embedded in pails of ice, upon the table: and +napkins and other goodly garniture graced the curiously woven cloth. I hung +up, in the simplicity of my heart--over the seat which I was to occupy,-- +the portrait of _John King of France_, which M. Coeuré had just finished;-- +not considering that this said John had been beaten and taken prisoner, at +the battle of Poictiers by our Black Prince! Never was a step more +injudicious, or an ornament more unappropriate. However, there it hung +throughout the day. A dinner of the very best description, exclusively of +the wine, was to be served up for _twelve francs_ a head. I make no doubt +but the Club paid a _little_ more where they assembled in London! + +At length came the hour of dinner, and with the hour the guests. I +requested Brother Van Praet to be deputy chairman; and taking my seat +beneath the unfortunate John King of France, gave the signal for a general +attack--upon whatever was placed before the guests. Monsieur Denon, +however, did not arrive till after the first course. He had been detained +by a visit from the Duke of Bedford. M. Millin sat at my right hand, and M. +Gail at my left. The first course consisted chiefly of fruit, and slices of +anchovy, crossed. A large paper copy of a _melon_ cut a magnificent +appearance in the centre; but all this quickly gave way to fish, flesh, and +fowl of a various but substantial description. Poor Millin had no appetite, +and would only carve. He looked particularly ill. The rest ate, drank, and +were merry. The desert was of the very best quality: and this was succeeded +by the introduction of a little of English fashion and manners. We drank +toasts, connected with the object of the day's festival; and never were a +set of guests more disposed to relish both the wine and the sentiment which +accompanied each glass. They even insisted upon a "three times three" for +"Lord Spencer and the Club!" But if we were merry, we were wise. Shortly +after dinner, M. Gail rose, as if in a moment of inspiration, from his +seat--and recited the Latin verses which are here enclosed.[162] They will +at least make you admire the good humour of thé poet. He afterwards chanted +a song: his own literal version of thé XIXth ode of Anacreon, beginning +[Greek: Hê gê melaina pinei]. The guests declared that they had never sat +so long at table, or were more happy. I proposed a stroll or a seat upon +the lawn. Chairs and benches were at hand; and we requested that the coffee +might be brought to us out of doors. It was now after sun-set; and a lurid +sky was above our head. Our conversation was desultory as to topics, but +animated as to manner. I had never witnessed M. Van Praet more alive to +social disquisition. We talked of books, of pictures, and of antiquities... +and I happened, with the same witless simplicity which had pinned the +portrait of King John over my seat at dinner, to mention that volume, of +almost unparalleled rarity, ycleped _the Fables of Pfister, printed at +Bamberg_ in 1461:--which they had recently RESTORED to the Wolfenbuttel +Library! It was "more than enough" for the acute feelings of the devoted +head-librarian. M. Van Praet talked with legs and arms, as well as with +tongue, in reply to my observations upon the extraordinary worth and +singular rarity of that singular volume. "Alas, Sir, nothing pained me +more. Truly--"Here a smart flash of lightning came across us--which +illumined our countenances with due effect: for it had been sometime past +almost wholly dark, and we had been talking to each other without +perceiving a feature in our respective faces. M. Langlès joined in M. Van +Praet's lamentation; and the Baron Denon, who (as I learnt) had been the +means of obtaining that identical precious volume, united his tones of +commiseration with those of his brethren. + +The lightning now became more frequent, and in larger flashes--but neither +sharp nor very dazzling. Meanwhile the notes of a skilfully touched harp +were heard from one of the windows of a neighbouring house, with a mingled +effect which it was difficult to describe. _Pfister_, books, busts, and +music, now wholly engrossed our attention--and we were absolutely enveloped +in blue lightning. We had continued our discourse till towards midnight, +had not the rain come down in a manner equally sudden and severe. It was +one of the heaviest showers which I remember to have witnessed. The storm +was directly in the centre of Paris, and over our heads. We retreated +precipitately to the deserted banqueting room; and had a reinforcement of +coffee. After such a series of melting hot weather, I shall not easily +forget the refreshing sweetness emitted from every shrub upon the lawn. +About ten o'clock, we thought of our respective homes.[163] I went into +another room to pay the reckoning; liberated King John from his second +confinement; shook hands very heartily with my guests--and returned to my +lodgings by no means out of humour or out of heart with the day's +entertainment. Whether they have been more rational, or more _economical_, +in the celebration of the same festival, AT HOME, is a point, which I have +some curiosity, but no right, to discuss. Certainly they could not have +been happier. + +Having come to the conclusion of my account of the ROXBURGHE BANQUET, and +it being just now hard upon the hour of midnight, I must relinquish my +correspondent for my pillow. A good night. + + +[156] He died on the 24th of May, 1828; on the completion of his 85th year. + See the next note but one. + +[157] The reader may be amused with the following testy note of my vigilant + translator, M. Crapelet: the very Sir Fretful Plagiary of the minor + tribe of French critics! "Cette phrase, qui n'est pas Française, est + ainsi rapportée par l'auteur. M. l'Abbé Bétencourt, aura dit a peu + près: "Il mourra sans laisser d'élève." M. Dibdin qui parle et entend + fort bien le Français, EST IL EXCUSABLE DE FAIRE MAL PARLER UN + ACADEMICIEN FRANÇAIS, et surtout de rendre vicieuses presque toutes + les phrases qu'il veut citer textuellement? L'exactitude! + l'exactitude! C'est la première vertu du bibliographe; on ne saurait + trop le répéter a M. Dibdin." CRAPELET. vol. iv. 124. Quære tamen? + Ought not M. Crapelet to have said "il mourrira?" The sense implies + the future tense: But ... how inexpiable the offence of making a + French Academician speak bad French!!--as if every reader of common + sense would not have given _me_, rather than the _Abbé Bétencourt_, + credit for this bad speaking? + +[158] [In a short, and pleasing, memoir of him, in the _Révue + Encyclopédique, 115th livraison, p. 277, &c._ it is well and + pleasantly observed, that, "such was his abstraction from all + surrounding objects and passing events, he could tell you who was + Bishop of such a diocese, and who was Lord of such a fief, in the + XIIth century, much more readily, and with greater chance of being + correct, than he would, who was the living Minister of the Interior, + or who was the then Prefect of the department of the Seine?" By the + kindness of a common friend, I have it in my power to subjoin a + fac-simile of the autograph of this venerable Departed:] + + [Autograph] + +[159] The _Thucydides_ was published first; in twelve volumes 8vo. + VOL. II. 1807; with various readings, for the first time, from + thirteen MSS. not before submitted to the public eye. The French + version, in four volumes, with the critical notes of the Editor, may + be had separately. The VELLUM 4to. copy of the Thucydides consists of + fourteen volumes; but as the volumes are less bulky than those of the + Xenophon, they may be reduced to seven. The _Xenophon_ was published + in 1809, in seven volumes, 4to. The Latin version is that of + Leunclavius; the French version and critical notes are those of M. + Gail. The vellum copy, above alluded to, is divided into ten volumes; + the tenth being an Atlas of fifty-four maps. Some of these volumes are + very bulky from the thickness of the vellum. + + Upon this unique copy, M. Gail submitted to me, in writing, the + following remarks. "Of the Xenophon, two vellum copies were printed; + but of these, one was sent to the father of the present King of Spain, + and received by him in an incomplete state--as the Spanish Ambassador + told M. Gail: only six volumes having reached the place of their + destination. The Editor undertakes to give authenticated attestations + of this fact." "If," say M. Gail's written observations, "one + considers that each sheet of vellum, consisting of eight pages, cost + five francs ten sous, and three more francs in working off--and that + skins of vellum were frequently obliged to be had from foreign + countries, owing to the dearth of them at Paris--whereby the most + extravagant demands were sometimes obliged to be complied with--add to + which, that fifteen years have passed away since these sums were paid + down in hard cash,--the amount of the original expenses is doubled." + The volumes are in stout boards, and preserved in cases. In one of his + letters to me, respecting the sale of his vellum copy--the worthy + Professor thus pleasantly remarks: "Je ne veux pas m'enricher avec ce + livre qui, lorsque je serai cendres, aura un bien grand prix. Je n'ai + que le desir de me débarrasser d'une richesse qui m'est à charge, et + ne convient nullement à un modeste et obscur particulier, comme moi." + I subjoin the autograph of this worthy and learned Professor: hoping + yet to shake the hand heartily which guided the pen. + + [Autograph] + +[160] M. Millin DIED about the middle of the following month, ere I had + reached Vienna. His library was sold by auction in May 1819, under the + superintendence of Messrs. Debure, who compiled the sale catalogue. It + produced 53,626 francs. The catalogue contained 2556 articles or + numbers; of which several were very long sets. One article alone, no. + 866., consisted of 326 volumes in folio, quarto, and octavo. It is + thus designated, "RECUEIL DE PIECES SUR LES ARTS, LA LITTE'RATURE, LES + ANTIQUITE'S, _en Latin, en Italien, et en François_. This article + produced 4501 francs, and was purchased by the Grand Duke of Tuscany. + Millin had brought up from boyhood, and rescued from poverty and + obscurity, a lad of the name of _Mention_. This lad lived with him + many years, in the capacity of a valet and private secretary. In his + second and last voyage to Italy, Millin declined taking him with him, + but left him at home, in his house, with a salary of fifty francs per + month. Five months after his departure, in February, 1812, a great + quantity of smoke was seen issuing from the windows of Millin's + apartments. Several people rushed into the room. They found the + drawings and loose papers taken from the portfolios, rolled up + lightly, and the room on fire at the four corners! A lighted candle + was placed in the middle of the room. Suspicion immediately fell upon + Mention. They ran to his bed chamber: found the door fastened: burst + it open--and saw the wretched valet weltering in his blood ... yet + holding, in his-right hand, the razor with which he had cut his + throat! He was entirely dead. Millin's collection of Letters from his + numerous Correspondents perished in the flames. + + This accident, which also deprived Millin of a fund of valuable + materials that he was preparing for a _Dictionary of the Fine Arts_, + and for a _Recueil de Pièces gravées Inédites_--might have also had an + infinitely more fatal tendency: as it occurred _within_ the walls + which contain the ROYAL LIBRARY! Millin received the news of this + misfortune, in Italy, with uncommon fortitude and resignation. But + this second voyage, as has been already intimated, (see p. 260) + hastened his dissolution. He planned and executed infinitely too much; + and never thoroughly recovered the consequent state of exhaustion of + body and mind. As he found his end approaching, he is reported to have + said--"I should like to have lived longer, in order to have done more + good--but God's will be done! I have lived fifty-nine years, the + happiest of men--and should I not be ungrateful towards Providence, if + I complained of its decrees?!" And when still nearer his latter + moments--he exclaimed: "I have always lived, and I die, a Frenchman: + hating no one: complaining only of those who retard the cause of + reason and truth. I have never, intentionally, hurt a single creature. + If I have injured any one, I ask pardon of him for the error of my + understanding." He died on the 18th of August, and his body was + interred in the churchyard of Père la Chaise. His old friend and + colleague, M. GAIL, pronounced a funeral discourse over his grave--in + which, as may be well supposed, his feelings were most acutely + excited. I subjoin a facsimile of Millin's autograph: from the richly + furnished collection of Mr. Upcott, of the London Institution. + + [Autograph: A.L. Millin] + +[161] [Mons. Langlès survived the above account between five and six years; + dying January 28, 1824. His Library was sold by auction in March, + 1825. It was copious and highly creditable to his memory. From the + source whence the preceding autograph was derived, I subjoin the + following autograph. + + [Autograph: L Langlès] + + +[162] Monsieur Millin had been before hand in his description of this day's + festival, but his description was in prose. It appeared in the + _Annales Encyclopédiques_, for the ensuing month, July, 1818, and was + preceded by a slight historical sketch of the Club, taken chiefly from + the Bibliographical Decameron. His account of the festival may amuse + some of my readers, who have not been accustomed to peruse _English + toasts_ cloathed in French language. It is briefly thus: + + "Pendant que les membres du Roxburghe Club célébroient le 17 juin 1818 + la mémoire des premiers imprimeurs de Boccace, à Venise et en + Angleterre, sous la présidence de sa grâce lord Spencer; M. Dibdin, + vice-président, s'unissoit à ce banquet bibliographique par une + répétition qu'il en faisoit à Paris. Il avoit appelé à ce banquet M. + DENON, à qui la France doit encore une grande partie des manuscrits et + des éditions rares dont elle s'est enrichie, et plusieurs + conservateurs de la bibliothèque royale, MM. VANPRAET, LANGLE'S, GAIL, + et MILLIN. On pense bien que l'histoire littéraire, la bibliographie, + devinrent un inépuisable sujet pour la conversation. L'entretien + offrit un mélange de gaïté et de gravité qui convient aux banquets des + muses; et selon l'adage antique, les convives étoient plus que trois + et moins que neuf. M. Gail lut sur cette réunion des vers latins, dont + les toasts bruyans ne permirent pas de savourer d'abord tout le sel et + l'esprit. Ils doivent être imprimés dans _l'Hermes Romanus_. + + "M.D., amphitryon et président du festin, porta, comme il convenoit, + les premiers toasts: + + 1°. A la santé de milord Spencer et des honorables membres du + Roxburghe Club. 2°. A la mémoire de Christophe Valdarfer, inprimeur du + Boccace de 1471; livre dont l'acquisition fait par le duc de + Marlborough, fut l'occasion de la fondation du Roxburghe Club. 3°. A + la mémoire immortelle de Guillaume Caxton, premier imprimeur anglois. + 4°. A la gloire de la France. 5°. A l'union perpétuelle de la France + et de l'Angleterre. 6°. A la prospérité de la bibliothèque royale de + France. 7°. A la santé de ses dignes conservateurs, dont le savoir est + inépuisable, et dont l'obligeance ne se lasse jamais. 8°. A la + propagation des sciences, des arts, des lettres, et de la bibliomanie. + 9°. Au désir de se revoir le même jour chaque année. + + "Les convives ont rendu ces toasts par un autre qu'ils ont porté, avec + les hurras et les trois fois d'usage en Angleterre, au vice-président + du Roxburghe-Club, qui leur avoit fait l'honneur de les rassembler. + + "La Séance a fini à l'heure où le président du Roxburghe-Club lève + celle de Londres; et le vice-président, M. Dibdin, a soigneusement + réuni les bouchons, pour les porter en Angleterre comme un signe + commémoratif de cet agréable banquet."[E] + + The verses of Monsieur Gail were as follow:--but I should premise that + he recited them with zest and animation. + + Auspice jam Phæbo, SPENCEROQUE AUSPICE, vestrum + Illa renascentis celebravit gaudia lucis + Concilium, stupuit quondam quâ talibus emptus + Boccacius cunctorum animis, miratus honores + Ipse suos, atque ipsa superbiit umbra triumpho. + Magna quidem lux illa, omni lux tempore digna. + Cui redivivus honos et gloria longa supersit + _Atque utinam ex vobis unus, vestræque fuissem_ + Lætitiæ comes, et doctæ conviva _trapezæ_. + Sed nune invitorque epulis, interque volentes + Gallus Apollineâ sedeo quasi lege Britannos. + + Arridet D***: habet nos una voluptas. + Me quoque librorum meministis amore teneri, + Atque virûm studiis, quos Gallia jactat alumnos: + Nam si _Caxtonio_ felix nunc Anglia gaudet, + Non minus ipsa etiam _Stephanorum_ nomina laudat. + Hic nonnulla manent priscæ vestigia famæ. + Nobis Thucydides, Xenophon quoque pumice et auro, + Quem poliit non parca manus; felicior ille + Si possit ...[F] melius conjungere Musas! + [Greek: Koina ta panta philôn] perhibent: at semper amici + Quidquid doctorum est: tantis ego lætor amicis. + Æternum hæc vigeat concordia pocula firment + Artesque et libri, quæ nectant foedera reges, + Utramque et socient simul omnia vincula gentem. + + CECINIT JOAN. B. GAIL, + + Lector regius in biblioth. regiâ codd. gr. et lat. præfectus. + + While one of the London morning newspapers (which shall be here + nameless) chose to convert this harmless scene of festive mirth into a + coarse and contemptible attack upon its author, the well-bred + Bibliomanes of Paris viewed it with a different feeling, and drew from + it a more rational inference. It was supposed, by several gentlemen of + education and fortune, that a RIVAL SOCIETY might be established among + themselves--partaking in some degree of the nature of that of the + ROXBURGHE, although necessarily regulated by a few different laws. + + Taking the regulations of the ROXBURGHE CLUB (as laid down in the + _Ninth Day_ of the _Decameron_) as the basis, they put together a code + of laws for the regulation of a similar Society which they chose, very + aptly, to call LES BIBLIOPHILES. Behold then, under a new name, a + _Parisian Roxburghe Society_. When I visited Paris, in the summer, of + 1819, I got speedily introduced to the leading Members of the club, + and obtained, from M. DURAND DE LANÇON, (one of the most devoted and + most efficient of the members) that information--which is here + submitted to the public: from a persuasion that it cannot be deemed + wholly uninteresting, or out of order, even by the most violent + enemies of the _cause_." The _object_ of this Society of the + BIBLIOPHILES must be expressed in the proper language of the country. + It is "_pour nourrir, reléver, et faire naître méme la passion de la_ + _Bibliomanie_." I put it to the conscience of the most sober-minded + observer of men and things--if any earthly object can be more orthodox + and legitimate? The Society meet, as a corporate body, twice in the + year: once in April, the second time in December; and date the + foundation of their Club from the 1st of January 1820. Whatever they + print, bears the general title of "_Mélanges_;"[G] but whether this + word will be executed in the black-letter, lower-case, or in roman + capitals, is not yet determined upon. One or two things, however, at + starting, cannot fail to be premised; and indeed has been already + observed upon--as a species of _heresy_. The Society assemble to a + "déjeuné à la fourchette," about twelve o'clock: instead of to a + "seven o'clock dinner," as do the London Roxburghers: whereby their + constitutions and pockets are less affected. The other thing, to + observe upon, is, that they do not print (and publish among + themselves) such very strange, and out-of-the way productions, as do + the London Roxburghers. For truly, of _some_ of the latter, it may be + said with the anonymous poet in the _Adversaria_ of Barthius, + + Verum hæc nee puer edidici, nee tradita patre + Accepi, nee Aristotelis de moribus umquam + Librum, aut divini Platonis dogmata legi. + _Edit. Fabri_. 1624, col. 345, vol. i. + + And why is it thus? Because these reprints are occasionally taken + (quoting Caspar Barthius himself, in the xxth chapter of his iid book + of Adversaria, _Edit. Ead_.) "ex libro egregiè obscuro et a blattis + tineisque fere confecto." But, on the other hand, they are perfectly + harmless: + + Sweet without soure, and honny without gall: + + as Spenser observes in his _Colin Clout's come home again: edit._ + 1595: sign. E.F. Or, as is observed in _Les Illustrations de France, + edit_. 1513, 4to. litt. goth.: + + Le dedens nest, ne trop cler, ne trop brun, + Mais delectable a veoir...comme il me semble. _Sign. Cii. rev_. + + A genuine disciple of the Roxburghe Club will always exclaim + "delectable a veoir" let the contents of the book be "cler," or + "brun." Nor will such enthusiastic Member allow of the epithets of + "hodg-podge, gallimaufry, rhapsody," &c. which are to be found in the + "Transdentals General," of Bishop Wilkins's famous "_Essay towards a + real character and a philosophical language:"_ edit. 1668, fol. p. + 28--as applicable to his beloved reprints! I annex the names of the + Members of the Societé des Bibliophiles, as that club was first + established. + + 1. Le Marquis de Chateaugiron, _Président_. 2. Guilbert de + Pixérécours, _Secrétaire_. 3. Le Chevalier Walckenaer, _Membre de + l'Institut, Trésorier._ 4. Alph. de Malartic, _Maître des Requêtes._ + 5. Durand de Lançon. 6. Edouard de Chabrol. 7. Berard, _Maître des + Requêtes_. 8. Le Vcte. de Morel-Vindé, _Pair de France._ 9. Madame la + Duchesse de Raguse, (_par courtoisie_.) 10. Pensier. 11. Comte Juste + de Noailles. 12. Le Baron Hely d'Oisel, _Conseiller d'etat._ 13. Le + Marquis Scipion du Nocere, _Officier Superieur du Garde du Corps_. 14. + Hippolyte de la Porte. 15. De Monmerqué, _Conseiller à la Cour + Royale_. 16. Coulon, _à Lyon._ 17. Le Duc de Crussol. 18. Le Comte + d'Ourches, _à Nancy._ 19. Le Chevalier Langlès, _Membre de + l'Institut._ 20. Duriez, _à Lille._ 21. Le Marquis Germain Garnier, + _Pair de France_. 22. Monsieur le Chevalier Artaud, _Secrétaire d' + Ambass. à Rome_. + + It remains to conclude this, I fear unconscionably long, note, as the + above letter is concluded, with the mention of ANOTHER BANQUET. This + banquet was given by the Bibliophiles to the NOBLE PRESIDENT of the + Roxburghe Club, when the latter was at Paris in the Spring of the year + 1820. The Vice-President of the Roxburghe Club, who happened at the + same time to be at Paris, also received the honour of an invitation. + The festival took place at _Beauvilliers'_, the modern Apicius of + Parisian restorateurs. About twelve guests sat down to table. The + Marquis de Chateaugiron was in the chair. They assembled at six, and + separated at half-past nine. All that refinement and luxury could + produce, was produced on the occasion. Champagnes of different tints, + and of different qualities--_lively_ like M. Langlès, or _still_ like + Monsieur ****; fish, dressed as they dress it à la Rocher de Cancale-- + poultry, and pastry--varied in form, and piquant in taste--but better, + and more palatable than either, conversation--well regulated and + instructive--mingled with the most respectful attention to the + ILLUSTRIOUS GUEST for whom the banquet had been prepared--gave a charm + and a "joyaunce" to the character of that festival--which will not be + easily effaced from the tablets of the narrator's memory. Where all + shine pretty equally, it seems invidious to particularise. Yet I may + be allowed to notice the hearty urbanity of the Marquis, the thorough + good humour and bibliomaniacal experience of the Comte d'Ourches, + (who, ever and anon, would talk about an edition of _Virgil's + Pastorals printed by Eggesteyn_) the vivacious sallies of the + Chevalier Langlès, the keen yet circumspect remarks of the Comte + Noailles, the vigilant attention and toast-stirring propensities of + M.D. de Lançon, the _Elzevirian_ enthusiasm of M. Berard, the ... But + enough ... "Claudite jam rivos pueri--sat prata biberunt." + + [E] These Corks are yet (1829) in my possession: preserved in an + old wooden box, with ribs of iron, of the time of Louis XI. + + [F] The word here in the original is not clear. + + [G] [They have now published FOUR VOLUMES, in royal 8vo. of + singular beauty and splendour: but the fourth vol. falls far short + of its precursors in the intrinsic value of its contents. The + first volume is so scarce, as to have brought £20. at a sale in + Paris. I possess the three latter vols. only, by the kindness of + the Society, in making me, with Earl Spencer, an Honorary + Associate.] + +[163] [The Reader must not break up with the party, until he has cast his + eye upon the autograph of an Individual, of as high merit and + distinction in the department which he occupies, as any to which he + has yet been introduced. It only remains to say--it is the autograph + of Mons. + + [Autograph] + + + + +_LETTER X._ + +THE COLLECTIONS OF DENON, QUINTIN CRAUFURD, AND THE MARQUIS DE SOMMARIVA. + + +All the world has heard of the famous DENON, the Egyptian traveller; and +editor of the great work of the _Antiquities of Egypt_, published in 1802, +in two sumptuous folio volumes. As you possess a copy of the French +work,[164] with choice impressions of the plates, I need say nothing +further upon the subject--except that I believe it to be one of the very +finest works of the kind, which has ever appeared ... on the score of art. +But the author has other claims to attention and popularity. He was an +intimate friend--and certainly the confidential adviser--of Buonaparte, in +all public schemes connected with the acquisition of pictures and statues: +and undoubtedly he executed the task confided to him with _ability_. He was +verging oh his sixtieth year, when he started with his master upon the +Egyptian expedition--a proof at least of energy, as well as of good +disposition, in the cause. But Denon has been a great European traveller: +he has had access to private, as well as to public, cabinets; and has +brought home some rich fruits of his enterprise and taste. + +His house, on the _Quai Malaquais_, is the rendezvous of all the English of +any taste--who have respectable letters of introduction; and I must do him +the justice to say, that, never did a man endure the _inconveniences_ which +must frequently result from keeping such open house, with greater +adroitness and good humour than does the Baron Denon. I have sometimes +found his principal rooms entirely filled by my countrymen and +countrywomen; and I once, from the purest accident, headed a party of +_twenty-two_ ... in which were three British officers, and more than that +number of members of either University. I will fairly own that, on +receiving us, he drew me quietly aside, and observed:--"Mon ami, quand vous +viendrez une autre fois, ne commandez pas, je vous prie, une armée si +nombreuse. Je m'imaginois encore en Egypte." What was still more +perplexing, we found there a party of English as numerous as ourselves. It +was thus, however, that he rebuked my indiscretion. + +We had twice exchanged visits and cards before we met. The card of Denon +was worth possessing, from the simple, unaffected modesty which it evinced. +You merely read the word DENON upon it!... The owner of the collection +which I am about to describe, is certainly "un peu passé" as to years; but +he has a cheerful countenance, with the tint of health upon it; small, +gray, sparkling eyes, and teeth both regular and white.[165] He is +generally dressed in black, and always as a gentleman. His figure, not +above the middle height, is well formed; and his step is at once light and +firm. There is doubtless a good deal which is very prepossessing in his +manners. As he understands nothing of the English language, he can of +course neither read nor speak it. + +It is now time to give you some idea of this curious collection. You ascend +a lofty and commodious stone staircase (not very common in Paris) and stop +at the _first_ floor:--another comfort, also very rare in Paris. This +collection is contained in about half a dozen rooms: lofty, airy, and well +furnished. The greater number of these rooms faces the Seine. The first +contains a miscellaneous assemblage of bronze busts, and pictures of +Teniers, Watteau, and of the more modern School of Paris. Of these, the +Watteau is singular, rather than happy, from its size.[166] The two Teniers +are light, thin, pictures; sketches of pigs and asses; but they are very +covetable morsels of the artist.[167] In a corner, stands the skeleton of a +female mummy in a glass case, of which the integuments are preserved in a +basket. This is thought to be equally precious and uncommon. M. Denon shews +the foot of the figure (which is mere bone and muscle) with amazing triumph +and satisfaction. He thinks it is as fine as that of the Venus de Medicis, +but there is no accounting for tastes. Among the busts is one of West, of +Neckar, and of Denon himself: which latter I choose here to call "_Denon +the First_." The second room contains a very surprising, collection of +Phoenician, Egyptian, and other oriental curiosities: and in a corner, to +the left, is a set of small drawers, filled with very interesting medals of +eminent characters, of all descriptions, chiefly of the sixteenth century. +Above them is a portrait of the owner of the collection--which I choose to +call "_Denon the Second_." This room exhibits a very interesting mélange. +Over the fire place are some busts; of which the most remarkable are those +of _Petrarch_ and _Voltaire_; the former in bronze, the latter in +terra-cotta; each of the size of life. Voltaire's bust strikes me as being +the best representation of the original extant. It is full of character; a +wonderful mixture of malignity, wit, and genius.[168] + +The third room is the largest, and the most splendidly hung with pictures. +Of these, the circular little Guercino--a holy family--is, to my poor +judgment, worth the whole.[169] The Rysdael and Both are very second rate. +As you approach the fire-place, your attention is somewhat powerfully +directed to a small bronze whole length figure of Buonaparte--leaning upon +a table, with his right hand holding a compass, and his left resting upon +his left thigh.[170] Some charts, with a pair of compasses, are upon the +table; and I believe this represents him in his cabin, on his voyage to +Egypt. Is there any representation of him, in the same situation, upon his +_return_? However, it is an admirable piece of workmanship. In this room is +also (if I remember rightly) the original colossal head of the ex-emperor, +when a young man, in white marble, by CANOVA. But I must not omit informing +you that here is also another portrait, in oil, of the owner of the +collection--which, if you please, we will call "_Denon the Third_." You +next enter a narrow, boudoir-shaped apartment, which contains, to my taste, +the most curious and precious morsels of art which the Baron Denon +possesses. They are specimens of the earlier schools of painting, +commencing with what are called _Giottos_ and _Cimabues_--down to a very +striking modern picture of a group of children, by a late French artist, +just before the time of our Reynolds. This latter you would really conceive +to have been the production of Sir Joshua himself. Of the specimens of the +earlier schools, I was most struck with the head of PISANI, the inventor of +medals--of the fifteenth century--painted by _Antonello da Messina_, a +pupil of John Van Eyk. It is full of nature and of character. I could not +get away from it. "Is it possible to obtain a copy of this picture?"--said +I to its owner. "I understand you, (replied Denon) you wish to carry that +copy to your own country. And to have it engraved there?" ... "Most +unquestionably"--resumed I. "It is at your service (he rejoined); Laurent +will copy it admirably." I hardly knew how to thank Mons. Denon +sufficiently.[171] + +[Illustration: PISANI.] + +[Illustration: DENON.] + +There was another head ...but "non omnia possumus omnes." I mean, one of a +female in profile, by MASACCIO. It was full of expression.[172] "What, +(said its owner,) must you have an engraving of _that_ head also? It is +bespoke; by myself. In short, every thing which you behold in these rooms +(including even your favourite Pisani) will be _lithographised_ for the +publication of my own collection." Of course, after this declaration, I was +careful of what I did or said. "But there was yet _one_ thing in this +collection--of which, as I saw such a variety, he could not refuse me a +copy." "What might that be?" "A portrait of HIMSELF: from marble, from oil, +or from enamel." "Take your choice: he replied: "faites ce que vous +voulez,"--and it was agreed that M. Laguiche should make a drawing of the +bust, in white marble, (I think the sculptor's name is Bosio) which is +indeed very like him.[173] There is also a large and beautiful enamel of +Denon, full dressed with all his orders, by Augustin; perhaps the most +perfect specimen of that artist which France possesses. It is the work of +several years past, when Denon had more flesh upon his cheek, and more fire +in his eye. We may therefore say that this room contains "_Denon the +Fourth, and Denon the Fifth_!" + +In the same room you observe a very complete specimen of a papyrus +inscription; brought from Egypt. Indeed the curiosities brought from that +country (as might naturally be supposed) are numerous and valuable. But my +attention was directed to more _understandable_ objects of art. Opposite to +the bust of Denon, is one of his late master, the ex-Emperor, in bronze: +and above this latter, is a small picture, by _Lucas Cranach_, of a man +with a bag of money tempting a young woman: full of character, and +singularly striking. This room--or the one adjoining, I have forgotten +which--contains M. Denon's collection of the prints of MARC ANTONIO or of +REMBRANDT--or of both; a collection, which is said to be _unequalled_.[174] +Whether the former be more precious than the latter, or whether both be +superior to what our British Museum contains of the same masters, is a +point which has not yet been fairly determined. But I asked, one morning, +for a glimpse of the Rembrandts. We were alone; just after we had +breakfasted together. M. Denon commenced by shewing me two different states +of the _Coach Landscape_, and the two _great Coppinols_ with _white +grounds_--each varying somewhat!!! "Enough," cried I--holding up both +hands,--"you beat all in England and all in France!" + +From hence you pass into a fourth room, which is M. Denon's bed-chamber. +About the fire-place are numerous little choice bits of the graphic art. +Two small _Watteaus_, in particular, are perfectly delicious;[175] as well +as a very small _Sebastian Bourdon_; of a holy family. In a corner, too +much darkened, is a fine small portrait of _Parmegiano_ in profile: full of +expression--and, to the best of my recollection, never engraved. These are, +I think, the chief bijoux in the bed-room; except that I might notice some +ancient little bronzes, and an enamel or two by Petitot. You now retrace +your steps, and go into a fifth room, which has many fair good pictures, of +a comparatively modern date; and where, if I mistake not, you observe at +least _one_ portrait in oil of the master of the premises. This therefore +gives us "_Denon the Seventh_!" It is here that the master chiefly sits: +and he calls it his workshop. His drawers and port-folios are, I think, +filled with prints and old-drawings: innumerable, and in the estimation of +the owner, invaluable. You yet continue your route into a further room,-- +somewhat bereft of furniture, or en dishabille. Here, among other prints, I +was struck with seeing that of _the late Mr. Pitt_; from Edridge's small +whole length. The story attached to it is rather singular. It was found on +board the first naval prize (a frigate) which the French made during the +late war; and the Captain begged Monsieur Denon's acceptance of it. Here +were also, if I remember rightly, prints of Mr. Fox and Lord Nelson; but, +as objects of _art_, I could not help looking with admiration--approaching +to incredulity--upon three or four large prints, after Rembrandt and Paul +Potter, which M. Denon assured me were the production of _his_ burin! I +could scarcely believe it. Whatever be the merits of Denon, as a critical +judge of art, ancient or modern, there is no person, not wholly blinded by +prejudice, or soured by national antipathies, that can deny him great zeal, +great talent, and great feeling ... in the several pursuits of art, of +which his apartments furnish such splendid evidence. + +But, you may be disposed to add, "has this celebrated man no collection of +Books?--no LIBRARY? At least he must have a _missal_ or two?" 'Tis even so, +my friend. Library, he has none: for as "one swallow does not make a +summer," so three or four pretty little illuminated volumes do not +constitute a library. However, what he has of this kind, has been freely +exhibited to me; and I here send you a transscript of some notes taken upon +the spot. + +I was first shewn a small missal, prettily executed in a gothic type, of +the Italian form, after the models of those of Jenson and Hailbrun. The +calendar has the paintings injured. On the reverse of the last leaf of the +Calendar, we read, in roman capitals, the following impressive annotation: +DEUM TIME, PAUPERES SUSTINE, MEMENTO FINIS. On the reverse of the ensuing +leaf, is a large head of Christ, highly coloured: but with the lower part +of the face disproportionately short: not unlike a figure of a similar +kind, in the Duke of Devonshire's Missal, described on a former +occasion.[176] The crucifixon, on the next leaf but one, is full of spirit +and effect. Then commence the _Drolleries_: or a series of subjects most +whimsically conceived, but most sweetly touched and finished. You cannot +imagine any thing more perfect of their kind and for their size, than are +the beasts, birds, insects, fruits, and flowers. The vellum harmonises +admirably, from its colour and quality. There are several comparatively +large illuminations: some with very small figures; and two (one of St. John +the Baptist, and the other of Christ mocked) are of great beauty in respect +to force of colour. The initial capitals are executed with equal attention +to taste in composition, and delicacy in colouring. This diminutive volume +is only four inches high, by about two inches and three quarters wide. It +is bound in red velvet, and mounted with silver knobs, with heads of +cherubim upon them. It is fastened by a silver clasp; upon which is +painted, and glazed, a head of Christ--of the time, as I conceive. M. Denon +told me he bought this little gem of a bookseller in Italy, for 400 francs. + +He has another Missal, about half an inch wider and taller, in the binding +of the time, with stamped ornaments. This exhibits flowers, fruits, and +birds, in the margins; touched with great delicacy and truth. Some of the +borders have a gold ground, shaded with brown, upon which the fruit is +richly brought out in relief: others have human figures; and the border, +encircling the temptation of our first Parents, has nothing superior to +it--and is really worth an engraved fac-simile: but not in _lithography!_ +It is on the forty-fifth leaf. One of the heads, in the border, is like +that of our Edward VI. The third illuminated ms. volume, in M. Denon's +possession, is probably the most valuable. It is a quarto, written in the +Spanish language, and bearing the date of 1553. The scription is in red and +black letters, alternately. This book contains several large illuminations, +and coloured borders; and I was told, by its owner, that it was the _very +book_ upon which the OATHS OF INITIATION INTO THE SPANISH INQUISITION were +administered. Its condition is most perfect. The first large illumination +represents a Saint, with his scull divided by a sword, and blood streaming +copiously from him: a palm, with three crowns, is in his right hand; a book +is in his left: at top we read "_Exsurge Domine, et judica Causam tuam_." +The Saint is surrounded by a border of fruits and flowers. It is the +principal embellishment in the volume. This book is in its original, black +leather, stamped binding, with knobs and clasps. A marginal note thus +remarks: "_ynoscan obligados asseruier cargome off^o. de ella salbo si +de su voluntad loquisier en servi_." + +In my last visit to Denon,[177] I met with ANDRIEU; a name which reflects +lustre upon the Fine Arts. As a medallist, he has no equal, nor perhaps +ever had any, among the French. Our own SIMON enables us to oppose to him a +rival of great and unquestionable talents; but we have slept soundly, both +in the _medallic_ and _numismatic_ art, since the time of Cromwell: except +that we were shook a little out of our slumbers during the reigns of Anne +and George I. Andrieu has more of the pure Greek feeling about him, than +Simon ever evinced: and prefers executing his _hair_ more in masses than in +detail. He is therefore on this head, a copyist; but he transfuses into the +countenance that soul and intelligence which we delight to contemplate, and +which we are prompt to own, in the countenances upon Greek coins. The +series of _Bonaparte-Medals_ are, almost entirely, I believe, the work of +his hand. But _every_ head is _safe_ with Andrieu. He had just brought a +medal of the present King (Louis XVIII.) to shew Denon. It was about the +size of our half crown, in bronze. The countenance was in profile:--an +admirable, and a very strong resemblance. The reverse was the equestrian +statue of Henri IV., upon the Pont-Neuf.[178] Upon the whole, quite as +good, as an effort of _art_, as what has been done for Bonaparte. The +artist had well nigh succeeded in drawing me into a sort of half temptation +to bespeak an impression of the medal _in gold_. "It was but a trifling +sum--some twenty louis, or thereabouts. It would look so sharp and splendid +in gold! and...." "I thank you much Sir, (replied I) but twenty louis will +carry me almost to _Strasbourg_, whither I am to proceed in about a week or +ten days." One thing I must add, much to his good sense and pure patriotic +feeling:--he had been indirectly solicited to strike some medals, +commemorative of the illustrious achievements of our WELLINGTON: but this +he pointedly declined. "It was not, Sir, for _me_ to perpetuate the name of +a man who had humbled the power, and the military glory, of my _own +country_." Such was his remark to me. What is commendable in MUDIE,[179] +would have been ill-timed, if not disgraceful, in Andrieu. + +Come with me, now, to a very different exhibition: to a unique collection, +of its kind: to a collection, not frequently visited: as little known; but +undoubtedly well deserving both of being often visited and described. It is +of the _Collection of Paintings_ belonging to MR. QUINTIN CRAUFURD, living +in the _Rue d'Anjou_, no. 21, that I am about to speak:--the fruits of a +long residence (upwards of thirty years) in France; during the alternate +commotions of republicanism and despotism. A letter of introduction +procured me every facility of access to make repeated examinations of these +treasures; and during my sojournings I fancied myself holding converse +alternately with some of the grandees of the time of Francis I. and Louis +XIV. + +Such a collection of _French portraits_--almost entirely of characters who +have cut a figure in _history_--is no where else to be seen in Paris. In my +estimation, it is beyond all price. + +Facing you, as you enter, stands--firmly upon his legs, and looking you +manfully in the face--- the gallant and faithful _Comte De Brienne, Grand +Master of the Ceremonies to Francis I. and Henry II._ A fine picture; and +quite perfect.[180] To the left, is a charming whole length portrait, by +_Velasquez_: a tender and exquisitely careful specimen of art. Of other +whole lengths, but subordinately executed, you should notice one of +_Christine, Duchesse de Savoie_, daughter of Henry II. and Catherine de +Medicis; very curious, and in perfect preservation. There is a duplicate of +this picture in the Louvre. A much more curious picture is a whole length, +supposed to be of _Agnes Sorel_, mistress of Charles VII. One minute's +reflection will correct this designation of the portrait. In the time of +Agnes Sorel, portrait painting, in oil, was unknown--at least in France. +The costume betrays the misnomer: for it is palpably not of the time of +Agnes Sorel. Here is also a whole length of _Isabella, daughter of Philip +II._ and Governess of the Low Countries. There are several small fancy +pictures; among which I was chiefly, and indeed greatly struck, with a +woman and two children by _Stella_. 'Tis a gem of its kind. + +[Illustration: COMTE DE BRIENNE, + +From an original Painting in the Collection of the late Quintin Crauford +Esq. + +London, Published June 1829, by R. Jennings, Poultry.] + +Leaving this room, you turn, to the left--into a small room, but obscurely +lighted. Here is a Virgin and Child, by _Sasso Ferrato_, that cannot be +surpassed. There is a freedom of design, a crispness of touch, and a +mellowness of colouring, in this picture, that render it a performance very +much above the usual representations of this subject. In the same room is a +spirited, but somewhat singular, picture of the _birth of Venus_. It +exhibits the conception and touch of a master. The colouring is very sober. +The name of the artist is not upon the frame, and as I was generally alone +when I made my memoranda, I had no one to instruct me. You leave this room, +and pass on--catching a glimpse of a lawn richly bedecked with flowers and +shrubs--into a long and lofty room, which unites the two enviable +distinctions of LIBRARY and GALLERY. Here you are bewildered for an +instant: that is to say, you are divided in your attention between the +admiration of the proportion and structure of the room, and the alternate +captivation of books, busts, and pictures. But as you have had enough of +_paper_ and _print_ in former despatches, I shall confine myself here +exclusively to the _pencil_ and the _chisel_. + +Let us first walk leisurely about the ground floor, ere we mount the +gallery. To begin with the busts. That of the late _Abbé Barthelemi_, in +white marble, immediately strikes you.[181] It is full of nature and of +character; and the hair has just enough of the antique gusto about it to +render the toute ensemble equally classical and individualised--if you will +allow this latter expression. Here is a terra-cotta head of _Corneille_, of +very indifferent workmanship; and much inferior to a similar representation +of him at Rouen. The terra-cotta head of _Rousseau_ is considerably better. +But the marble bust of _Voltaire_, by Houdon, throws every thing about it +into tameness. It is as fine as is the terra-cotta bust of the same person +which Denon possesses. Here, however, the poet is in a peruque, or +dress-wig. His eyes sparkle with animation. Every feature and every muscle +seems to be in action: and yet it is perfectly free from caricature or +affectation. A surprising performance. This head and that of Barthelemi are +quite perfect of their kind. And yet I am not sure whether I should not +have preferred the fine bronze bust of _Henri II._, somewhat larger than +life, to either of the preceding. But I must not forget the colossal head +of _Bonaparte_, when a young man, by Canova. It is of white marble: +considered to be the original. Denon has a similar head, by the same +artist. I am not sure if I do not prefer Mr. Craufurd's. Of paintings, on +this floor, the head of _Francis I_. by Titian--(which may be called rather +a finished sketch, and which is retouched in parts) is a very desirable +performance; but it is inferior to the same head, by the same artist, in +the Louvre. Here is a charming portrait of a Lady in the time of Louis XV., +who chose to lead the life of a _Réligieuse_: sweetly and naturally +touched. A fine portrait of _Grotius_ is also here; well deserving a +conspicuous place in any cabinet of learning.[182] + +We will now walk up stairs to the gallery. Of course, in the confined space +between the balustrade and the wainscot (not much more than three feet), it +is barely possible to appreciate the full effect of the paintings; but I +here send you a list of the greater part of them, with brief remarks, upon +the general accuracy of which you may rely. + +_Madame Scarron_, with the _Duc du Maine_; apparently by Mignard: in a very +fresh and perfect state. + +A fine head of _Racine_, and similar one of _De La Motte_. + +_Mademoiselle de Guiche, Princesse de Monaco_; in all probability by +Mignard. Good. + +_Mademoiselle Hamilton, Comtesse de Grammont_; by Mignard. If the Comte de +Grammont chose to fall in love only with beautiful women, he could +scarcely, upon his own principles, (which indeed were any thing but moral) +have found any one so lovely as was his WIFE. Yet I have seen handsomer +portraits of her than this. + +_Anne de Gonzague_. She was Princess Palatine, and daughter of Charles Duke +of Nevers. This is a half length portrait. A garland is in her right hand. +A gay and pleasing picture. + +_Le Chancelier d'Aguesseau_. By Rigaud. A fine mellow portrait. + +_Louis XI_. A whole length; supposed to be by Leonardo da Vinci. Not very +credible. It is a fine, bold, horribly-looking portrait: not in the very +best state of preservation. + +_Blaise Pascal_. Very fine. The artist's name is not inscribed; but there +is a Murillo-like effect about this portrait, which is very striking. +Pascal holds a letter in his hand. + +Next to Pascal is a prodigiously fine oval portrait (is it of _Fontaine_?) +by Rigaud. No name is subjoined. + +_Comtesse de la Fayette_. A fine countenance: hands apparently recoloured. +In yellow drapery. + +_Julie-Lucie d'Augennes, Duchesse de Montausier._ She died in 1671. The +portrait is by Mignard. It represents this celebrated female, when young, +_encadred_ by flowers. The carnation tints of the flesh, and the blue +lustre of the eye, have nothing finer in the whole circle of Mignard's +performances. This is a picture from which the eye is withdrawn with no +common reluctance. It is clear, bright, fresh, and speaking.[183] + +The _Wife of P. de Champagne_. She holds a small oval portrait of the +mother of her husband, the famous painter, in her lap. The picture is by P. +de Champagne himself. The head of the mother is very clever: but the flesh +has perhaps too predominant a tint of pinkish-purple throughout. + +_Madame de la Sabliere_. Oval: very clever. + +_Madame Deshoulieres_. Similar, in both repects. + +_Madame Cornuel_. Oval: a stiff performance. + +_Madame la Duchesse d'Orleans_. She is represented as Hebe. A pretty +picture; but a little too much "frenchified." + +_Madame de Staal_. Oval. Beautiful and perfect. + +_Madame la Marquise de Rambouillet_. A° 1646. A most beautiful picture. The +head and shoulders are worthy of Vandyke. The curtain, in the background, +is flowered; and perhaps too hard. + +_Madame la Duchesse de la Valliere, mère du dernier duc de ce nom_. She was +the mother of the Duke de la Valliere who had the celebrated library; and +died in 1782, within three months of reaching her hundredth year! She was +an old woman, but yet very handsome, when this portrait was painted. Her +colour is yet tender, and her features are small and regular. The eyes have +unusual intelligence, for so protracted a period of life. It is a half +length, and I should think by Rigaud. She is sitting in a chair, holding a +tea spoon in her right hand, and a tea cup in her left. This may have some +allusion, of which I am ignorant. The whole picture is full of nature, and +in a fine tone of colour. + +The _Duke of Monmouth_. He is sitting: holding a truncheon in his right +hand. A helmet and plume are before him. He wears a white sash. This is a +dark, but may be called a finely painted, picture. Yet the Duke is not +represented as a handsome man. + +_Turenne_. By P. de Champagne. Fine. + +_Bossuet_. By Rigaud. This is not only considered as the chef-d'oeuvre of +Rigaud, but it has been pronounced to be the finest portrait ever executed +within the last century of the French School.[184] It is a whole length; +and is well known to you from the wonderful print of it by Drevet. The +representation is worthy of the original; for Bossuet was one of the last +of the really great men of France. He had a fine capacity and fine +scholarship: and was as adroit in polemics as Richelieu was in politics. He +resembled somewhat our Horsley in his pulpit eloquence,--and was almost as +pugnacious and overbearing in controversy. He excelled in quickness of +perception, strength of argument, and vehemence of invective; yet his +sermons are gradually becoming neglected--while those of Fenelon, +Massillon, and Saurin are constantly resorted to ... for the fine taste, +pure feeling, and Christianlike consolation which breathe throughout them. +One thing, in this fine whole length portrait of Bossuet, cannot fail to be +noticed by the curious. The head seems to have been separately painted, on +a small square piece of canvass, and _let into_ the picture. + +There is certainly a _rifacimento_ of some kind or other; which should +denote the head to have been twice painted. + +_C. Paulin_. By Champagne. Paulin was first confessor to Louis XIV.; and +had therefore, I should apprehend, enough upon his hands. This is a fine +portrait. + +_William III_. Harsh and stiff. It is a performance (as most of those of +William seem to be) for the model of a head of a ship. + +_Colbert, Evéque de Montpellier_. A fine head. + +_Fléchier, Evéque de Nismes_. A very fine portrait. The name of the painter +does not appear. + +A fine half length portrait of a _Marshal of France_, with a truncheon in +his hand. Both the hands are beautifully drawn and coloured. + +_Maréchal duc d'Harcourt_. By Rigaud. + +_Eliz. Angelique de Montmorenci, Duchesse de Chatillon_. She died in 1695 +in her 69th year. This is a fine picture, but injured and retouched. The +left hand rests upon a lion's head. + +_F. Marie de Bourbon, fille de Madame de Montespan, et femme du Régent_. A +stiffish picture; but the countenance is pleasing. + +_Madame la Duchesse de Névers, fille de Madame de Thianges, et nièce de +Madame de Montespan_. A bow is in her right hand, and a dog in her left. +The countenance is beautiful and well painted. The eyes and mouth in +particular have great sweetness of expression. + +_Duc de Montausier_; in a hat and red feather. By Rigaud. + +_Madame la Duchesse de Sforce: fille cadette de Madame de Thianges_. A +small whole length, sitting: with two greyhounds in her lap, and a third at +her side. + +_Le Ministre Colbert_. By Mignard. A fine picture.[185] + +_Marie Leezinska, femme de Louis XV_. A cleverly painted head. + +_Le Cardinal Mazarin_. By P. de Champagne. Whole length. A fine portrait-- +which I never contemplate without thinking of the poor unfortunate "man in +an iron mask!" + +_Madame de Motteville_. She died in her 74th year, in 1689. This is merely +the head and shoulders; but in the Vandyke style of execution. + +_Charles Paris d'Orleans, dernier Duc de Longueville._ He was killed in the +famous passage of the Rhine, at Tolhuys, in 1672. + +_Charles I_. By Vandyke. A beautiful half length portrait. Perhaps too +highly varnished. + +_Le Marquis de Cinq-Mars_. He was beheaded at the age of twenty-two, in +September 1642. There is also a whole length of him, in a rich, white, +flowered dress. A genuine and interesting picture. + +_Mary Queen of Scots_. Whole length: in a white dress. A copy; or, if an +old picture, repainted all over. + +_Don Carlos_, the unfortunate son of Philip II. of Spain. A beautiful +youth; but this picture, alleged to have been painted by Alfonso Sanchez +Coello, must be a copy. + +The foregoing are the principal decorations along the gallery of this +handsome and interesting room. In an adjoining closet, where were once two +or three portraits of Bonaparte, is a beautiful and highly finished small +whole length of _Philip Duke of Orleans_, Regent of France. Also a whole +length of _Marmontel_, sitting; executed in crayon. The curiously carved +frame, in a brown-coloured wood, in which this latter drawing is contained, +is justly an object of admiration with visitors. I have scarcely seen a +more appropriate ornament, for a choice cabinet, than this estimable +portrait of Marmontel. Here are portraits of _Neckar_, and _Clement Marot_, +in crayons: the latter a copy. Here is, too, a cleverly painted portrait of +_L. de Boulogne_. + +We descend--to a fourth room, or rather to a richly furnished cabinet-- +below stairs. Every thing here is "en petit." Whether whole lengths, or +half lengths, they are representations in miniature. What is this singular +portrait, which strikes one to the left, on entering? Can it be so? Yes ... +DIANE DE POICTIERS again! She yet lives every where in France. 'Tis a +strange performance; but I have no hesitation in calling it AN ORIGINAL ... +although in parts it has been palpably retouched. But the features--and +especially the eyes--(those "glasses of the soul," as old Boiastuau calls +them[186]) seem to retain their former lustre and expression. This highly +curious portrait is a half length, measuring only ten inches by about +eight. It represents the original without any drapery, except a crimson +mantle thrown over her back. She is leaning upon her left arm, which is +supported by a bank. A sort of tiara is upon her head. Her hair is braided. +Above her, within a frame, is the following inscription, in capital roman +letters: "_Comme le Cerf brait après le décours des Eaues; ainsi brait mon +Ame, après Toy, ô Dieu_." Ps. XLII. Upon the whole, this is perhaps the +most legitimate representation of the original which France possesses.[187] + +In the same boudoir is a small and beautifully coloured head of _Francis +I._ Here is a portrait of the famous _Duchess of Portsmouth_, on horseback, +in red; and another of the _Duchess of Nevers_, in a blue riding jacket. +But much more estimable, and highly to be prized--as works of art--- are +the TWO MURILLOS: one, apparently of St. Francis, which was always +religiously preserved in the bed-chamber of Madame de Maintenon, having +been given to her by Louis XIV. The other, although fine, has less general +interest. I could hardly sufficiently admire the whole length of _Jacques +Callot_, painted by himself. It is delicious, of its kind. There is a very +curious and probably coeval picture representing whole length portraits of +the _Cardinals of Guise and Lorraine_, and the _Dukes of Guise and +Mayenne_,[188] The figures are very small, but appear to be faithful +representations. An old portrait of _Louis Roi de Sicile, Père de Réné_,--a +small head, supposed to be of the fifteenth century--is sufficiently +singular, but I take this to be a copy. Yet the likeness may be correct. A +whole length of _Washington_, with a black servant holding his horse, did +not escape my attention. Nor, as an antiquary, could I refuse bestowing +several minutes attention upon the curious old portrait (supposed to be by +_Jean de Bruges_) of _Charlotte, Wife of Louis XI._ It is much in the style +of the old illuminations. In one of the lower rooms, I forget which, is a +portrait of Bonaparte; the upper part of the same representation of him +which appeared in London from the pencil of David. He is placed by the side +of a portrait (of the same dimensions) of his conqueror, Wellington: but I +am not much disposed to admire the style of execution of our hero. It is a +stiff, formal, and severely executed picture. Assuredly the present school +of French portrait painters is most egregiously defective in expression; +while ours, since the days of Reynolds, has maintained a most decided +superiority. I believe I have now noticed every thing that is more +particularly deserving of attention in the Collection of Mr. Quintin +Craufurd ... But I cannot retrace my steps without again expressing my +admiration of the _local_ of this little domain. The garden, offices, and +neighbourhood render it one of the most desirable residences in Paris.[189] + +As I happen to be just now in the humour for gossiping about the fine arts, +suppose I take you with me to the collection of paintings of the MARQUIS DE +SOMMARIVA, in the _Rue du Bas Rempart_? It is among the most distinguished, +and the most celebrated, in Paris; but I should say it is rather eminent +for sculpture than for painting. It is here that Canova reigns without a +rival. The early acquaintance and long tried friend of the Marquis, that +unrivalled sculptor has deposited here what he considers to be the +_chef-d'oeuvre_ of his art, as a single figure. Of course, I speak of his +_Magdalen_. But let me be methodical. The open day for the inspection of +his treasures is _Friday_. + +When I entered, not a creature was in the rooms. The general effect was +splendid and imposing. I took out my memorandum-book, and went directly to +work; noticing only those subjects which appeared, on one account or other, +to be more particularly deserving of attention. There is a pretty picture +of CUPID AND PSYCHE, by _Carlo Cignani_; the simple and quiet effect of +which is much heightened by being contrasted with the very worst +representation of the _same subject_, which I ever saw, by _David_: painted +last year at Brussels. How the Marquis can afford so many square yards of +his walls for the reception of such a performance, is almost marvellous. It +is, throughout, in the worst possible taste. The countenance of Cupid, who +is sitting on the bed or couch with the vacant grin of an ideot, is that of +a negro. It is dark, and of an utterly inane expression. The colouring is +also too ruddy throughout. Near to this really heartless picture, is one of +a woman flying; well drawn, and rather tenderly coloured. Opposite, is a +picture of Venus supported in the air by a group of Cupids. The artist is +_Prudhon_. In the general glare of colour, which distinguishes the French +school, it is absolutely refreshing to have the eye soothed by something +like an attempt, as in this picture, at a mellow chiaro-oscuro. It has +undoubted merit. It is, upon the whole, finely coloured; but the +countenance of Venus is so pale as to have an almost deathly effect. It is +intended to represent her as snatched away from the sight of her dead +Adonis. + +In common courtesy I must make but brief mention of a very clumsy, and +ill-drawn child, by De Broisefremont: and hasten, in the next room, to the +magnificent picture of _Diana and Endymion_, painted by Guerin in 1810, and +lately engraved. This picture is a very fair illustration of the merits and +demerits of the FRENCH SCHOOL OF PAINTING. The drawing of Endymion is, upon +the whole, good; but a palpable copy of the antique. This necessarily gives +it somewhat an air of affectation. The shepherd lies upon a bed of clouds, +(terminated by an horizon which is warmed by the rays of a setting sun) +very gracefully and perhaps naturally. He seems to sleep soundly. His whole +figure and countenance glow with the warmth of beauty and youth. I will not +disturb his slumbers by finding the least fault--even with the disposition +of the extremities. But his nightly visitor--the enamoured goddess--is, of +all female figures which I have ever seen upon canvass, one of the most +affected, meagre, and uninteresting. Diana has been exchanged for an opera +dancer. The waist is pinched in, the attitude is full of conceit, and there +is a dark shadow about the neck, as if she had been trying some previous +experiment with a _rope_! Endymion could never open his eyes to gaze upon a +figure so utterly unworthy of the representation of an enamoured +deity.[190] The Cupids must also be condemned; for they are poor in form, +and indifferent in execution. The back ground has considerable merit: but I +fear the picture is too highly glazed. In this room also is the famous +picture of _Belisarius_, engraved with so much éclat by Desnoyers. I own +that I like the engraving better than the painting; for I see no occasion +for such a disproportionate quantity of warm colouring as this picture +exhibits. + +Pope (in his Epistle to Jarvis, I think) says of artists, that, "to paint +the naked is their dear delight." No artists ever delighted so much in this +branch of painting as the French. Does not this taste argue a want--not +only of respect, but--of _feeling?_ It was therefore pleasing to me, my +dear friend, to turn my attention from the studied display of naked +goddesses, in the collection of the worthy Marquis of Sommariva, towards +objects a little more qualified to gratify the higher feelings connected +with art:--and the first thing which soothed me, when I _had_ so turned my +attention, was, the _Terpsichore_ of _Canova_. You know it from the print +by Morghen. The countenance, to my eye, is the perfection of female +beauty:--yet it is a countenance which seems to be the abstract--the result +of study, and of combination--rather than of beauty, as seen "in mortal +race which walks the earth." The drapery appears to be studiously +neglected--giving it the appearance of the antique, which had been battered +and bruised by the casualties of some two thousand years. By this, I mean +that the folds are not only numerous, but the intermediate parts are not +marked by that degree of precision and finish, which, in my opinion, they +ought to have received. Yet the whole has an enchantingly simple air: at +once classical, pure, and impressive. The Marquis has indeed great reason +to be proud of it. + +But if I pat the right cheek of Canova with one hand, I must cuff his left +cheek with the other. Here is a Cupid by him, executed in 1787. It is +evidently the production of a mind not ripened to its fullest powers. In +other words, I should call it "a poor, flat thing." + +We approach the far-famed MAGDALEN. Immediately opposite the boudoir, where +the last mentioned treasures are deposited, you observe a door, or +aperture, half covered with silken drapery of a greyish brown tint. There +was something mysterious in the appearance, and equally so in the approach. +I had no intimation of what it led to; for, as I told you, not a creature +besides myself was in the rooms. With a gently raised hand I drew the +drapery aside, entered ... and looked before me. There stood the MAGDALEN. +There she was, (more correctly speaking) kneeling; in anguish and +wretchedness of soul--her head hanging down--contemplating a scull and +cross, which were supported by her knees. Her dishevelled hair flowed +profusely over her back and shoulders. Her cheeks were sunk. Her eyes were +hollow. Her attitude was lowly and submissive. You could not look at her +without feeling pity and compassion. + +Such, in few words, is the Magdalen of Canova. For the first five minutes I +was lost in surprise and admiration. The windows are hid by white curtains; +and the interior is hung all over with the same grey silk drapery, before +noticed. A glass, placed behind the figure, affords you a view of the back +while you are contemplating the front. This is very ingenious; but it is +probably too artificial. The effect of the room, however--from the silken +drapery with which it is entirely covered--is, although studied, upon the +whole excellent. Of course the minutes flew away quickly in such a place, +and before such an object; and I think I viewed the figure, in every +possible direction, for full three quarters of an hour. The result of that +view--after the first feelings of admiration had subsided--I proceeded +forthwith to impart: and shall be most happy to be set right if I have +erred, in the conclusion which I draw. In truth, there can be only one or +two little supposed impeachments of the artist's judgment, in the +contemplation of this extraordinary figure. The Magdalen has probably too +much of the abject expression of _mendicity_ in her attitude; and, for a +creature thus poor and prostrate, one is surprised to find her gazing upon +a _golden_ cross. It is a piece of finery ill placed in the midst of such +wretchedness. But Canova is fond of gilt; yet what is appropriate in _Hebe_ +may be discordant in the _Magdalen_. This penitent creature, here so +touchingly expressed, is deeply wrapped in meditation upon her crucified +Master. She has forsaken the world ... to follow the cross!--but surely +this idea would have been more powerfully expressed, if the cross had _not_ +been _visible_?. Was this object necessary to tell the tale?--or, rather, +did not the sculptor deem it necessary to _balance_ (as is called) the +figure? Nor am I over well satisfied with the scull. It is common-place. At +any rate, if scull and cross must be there, I wish the cross had been +simply of stone--as is the scull. + +My next objection relates to a somewhat more important point. I think the +_face_ and _figure_ do not seem to belong to the _same_ human being: the +former is shrunken, ghastly, and indicative of extreme constitutional +debility: the latter is plump, well formed, and bespeaks a subject in the +enjoyment of full health. Can such an union, therefore, be quite correct? +In the different views of this figure, especially in profile, or behind, +you cannot fail to be struck with the general beauty of the form; but this +beauty arises from its fulness and just proportion. In gazing upon it, in +front, you are pained by the view of a countenance shrunk almost to +emaciation! Can this be in nature? And do not mental affliction and bodily +debility generally go together? The old painters, even as far back as the +time of illuminators of books, used to represent the Magdalen as plump, +even to fatness,--and stout in all respects; but her _countenance_ usually +partook of this vigour of stamina. It was full, rosy, and healthful. The +older artists sometimes placed the Magdalen in a very awkward, and perhaps +impossible, situation; and she was even made to be buried up to the bosom +in earth--still exercising her devotions. Canova has doubtless displayed +great pathos in the wretched aspect, and humiliated attitude, of his +Magdalen; but he has, at the same time, not been inattentive to beauty of +form. I only wish she appeared to be in as good condition as the _torso_ +indicates. A fastidious observer might say the figure was not _quite +balanced_, and that she must fall backward--if she retained such an +attitude for a quarter of an hour. But this is hyper-criticism. The date of +the execution of this figure is 1796: and parts of it clearly indicate +that, if the sculptor were now to re-execute it, he would have paid even +yet more attention to the finishing of the hair. Upon the whole, however, +it is a masterly effort of modern art. + +It is almost fixed that we leave Paris within a week or ten days from +hence:--and then, for green fields, yellow corn, running streams, ripened +fruit, and all the rural evidences of a matured summer. + + +[164] It was translated into English, and published in this country on a + reduced scale, both as to text and engravings--but a reprint of it, + with a folio volume of plates, &c. had appeared also in 1802. At the + time, few publications had such a run; or received a commendation, not + more unqualified than it was just. See an account of this work in the + _Library Companion_, p. 442. edit. 1824. + +[165] [M. Denon DIED in 1825, aged 78. The sale of his _Marbles, Bronzes, + Pictures, Engravings, &c._ took place in 1826.] + +[166] [It was sold at the sale of M. Denon's pictures for 650 francs, and + is numbered 187 in the Catalogue.] + +[167] [One of these pictures brought 1,400, and the other 220 francs: + prices, infinitely below their real worth. They should have been sold + HERE!] + +[168] [M. Crapelet says--this bust was modelled after the life by PIGALLE: + and was, in turn, the model of that belonging to the figure of + Voltaire in the library of the Institute: see p. 195 ante.] + +[169] [The result--judging from the comparative prices obtained at the + sale--has confirmed the propriety of my predilection. It brought 5000 + francs. In the sale catalogue, is the following observation attached: + "On admire dans ce précieux tableau de chevalet la facilité + surprenante de pinceau et cette harmonic parfaite de couleur qui + faisaient dire au Tiarini, peintre contemporain, "Seigneur Guerchin, + vous faites ce que vous voulez, et nous autres ce que nous pouvons." + No. 14.] + +[170] ["This figure was cast from a model made by Montoni in 1809. There + were ONLY six copies of it, of which four were in _bronze_ and + two in _silver_." _Cat._ No. 717. I have not been able to + learn the price for which it was sold.] + +[171] The OPPOSITE PLATE will best attest the truth of the above remark. It + exhibits a specimen of that precise period of art, when a taste for + the gothic was beginning somewhat to subside. The countenance is yet + hard and severely marked; but the expression is easy and natural, and + the _likeness_ I should conceive to be perfect. As such, the picture + is invaluable. [So far in the preceding edition. The sequel is a + little mortifying. The above picture, an undoubted _original_--and by + a master (the supposed pupil of John Van Eyk) who introduced the art + of oil-painting into Italy--was sold for only 162 francs: whereas the + _copy_ of it, in oil, by Laurent, executed expressly for the + accompanying plate (and executed with great skill and fidelity) cost + 400 francs!] + +[172] [What a taste have the Virtuosi at Paris! This interesting picture + was allowed to be sold for 162 francs only. Who is its fortunate + Possessor?] + +[173] [The OPPOSITE PLATE, which exhibits the head in question, is a + sufficient confirmation of the above remark.] + +[174] [First, of the MARC ANTONIOS. Since the sale of the _Silvestre_ + Collection, in 1810, nothing had been seen at Paris like that of M. + Denon. It was begun to be formed in the eighteenth century: from which + it is clear, that, not only was every proof at least an hundred years + old, but, at that period, ZANETTI, the previous possessor of this + Collection, sought far and wide, and with unremitting diligence, for + the acquisition of the choicest impressions of the engraver. In fact, + this Collection, (contained in an imperial folio volume, bound in + morocco--and of which I necessarily took but a hasty glance) consisted + of 117 _original_ impressions, and of 26 of such as were executed in + the _school_ of M. Antonio. Of the original impressions, the whole, + with the exception of four only, belonged to Zanetti. "If, says the + compiler of the Catalogue, (1826, 8vo. p. ij.) some of the impressions + have a dingy tint, from the casualties of time, none have been washed, + cleaned, or passed through chemical experiments to give them a + treacherous look of cleanliness." This is sound orthodoxy. The whole + was put up in one lot, and ... BOUGHT IN. + + Secondly, for the REMBRANDTS. The like had never been before submitted + to public auction. The Collections of _Silvestre_ and _Morel de Vindé_ + out and out eclipsed! _Zanetti_ again--the incomparable--the + felicitous--the unrivalled Zanetti had been the possessor of THIS + Collection also. But yet more ... John Peter Zoomer, a contemporary + (and peradventure a boon companion) of Rembrandt, was the original + former of the Collection. It is therefore announced as being COMPLETE + in all respects--"exhibiting all the changes, retouches, beautiful + proofs, on India and other paper: ample margins, unstained, uninjured; + and the impressions themselves, in every stage, bright, rich, and + perfect. The result of all the trouble and expence of 50 years toil of + collection is concentrated in this Collection." So says John Peter + Zoomer, the original collector and contemporary of Rembrandt. It + consisted of 394 original pieces: 3, attributed to Rembrandt, without + his name: 11, of John Lievens, Ferdinand Bol, and J.G. Villet: 11 + copies: and 9 engraved in the manner of Rembrandt. The whole contained + in 3 large folio volumes, bound in red morocco. + + No reasonable man will expect even a précis of the treasures of this + marvellous Collection: A glance of the text will justify every thing + to follow: but the "Advertisement" to the Catalogue prepares the + purchaser for the portrait of _Rembrandt with the bordered cloak_-- + Ditto, _with the Sabre--Ephraim Bonus_ with the _black ring_--the + _Coppinol_, as above described--the _Advocate Tolling_--the + _Annunciation of Christ's Nativity to the Shepherds--the _Resurrection + of Lazarus--Christ healing the Sick_; called the _Hundred + Guilders_[H]--the _Astrologer asleep_--and several _Landscapes_ not + elsewhere to be found--of which one, called the _Fishermen_ (No. 456) + had escaped Bartsch, &c. &c. The descriptions of the several articles + of which this Collection was composed, occupy 47 pages of the + Catalogue. The three volumes were put up to sale--as a SINGLE LOT--at + the price of 50,000 francs:--and there was _no purchaser_. Of its + present destiny, I am ignorant: but there are those in this country, + who, to my knowledge, would have given 35,000 francs. + + I ought to add, that M. Denon's collection of CALLOT'S WORKS, in three + large folio volumes,--bound in calf--also once the property of + Zanetti--and than which a finer set is supposed never to have been + exhibited for sale--produced 1000 francs: certainly a moderate sum, if + what Zanetti here says of it (in a letter to his friend Gaburri, of + the date of 1726) be true. "If ever you do this country (Venice) the + honour of a visit, you will see in my little cabinet a collection of + CALLOTS, such as you will not see elsewhere--not in the royal + collection at Paris, nor in the Prince Eugene's, at Vienna--where the + finest and rarest impressions are supposed to be collected. I possess + _every_ impression of the plates which Callot executed; many of them + containing first proofs, retouched and corrected by the engraver + himself in red chalk. I bought this Collection at Paris, and it cost + me 1950 francs. They say it was formed by the engraver himself for his + friend M. Gérard an Amateur of Prints." "It should seem that Zanetti's + description was a little overcharged; but in _his_ time there was no + complete catalogue of the artists." Cat. p. 153. + + [H] It formed No. 345 of the Catalogue; where it is described as + being "a magnificent proof upon India paper, with a margin of 15 + lines all round it. It was with the bur, and before the + cross-hatchings upon the mane of the Ass." The finest copy of this + subject, sold in this country, was that formerly in the collection + of M. Bernard; and recently purchased by T. Wilson, Esq. Will the + reader object to disporting himself with some REMBRANDTIANA, in + the _Bibliomania_ p. 680-2.? + +[175] One of those pictures (No. 188 in the Catalogue) produced 3015 + francs: the other, only 180 francs. The Sebastian Bourdon (No. 139,) + was sold for 67 francs, and the Parmegiano, (No. 34) for 288 francs. + +[176] See the _Bibliographical Decameron_; vol. i. p. clvii. &c. [M. + Denon's Missal was purchased by an English amateur, and sold at the + sale of the Rev. Theodore Williams's Library for £143. 17s.] + +[177] [Ere we take leave of this distinguished Frenchman, let us dwell for + two seconds on his autograph. + + [Autograph: Denon] + +[178] There has been recently struck (I think, in 1819) a medal with the + same obverse and reverse, of about the size between an English + farthing and halfpenny. The statue of Henry is perhaps the MIRACLE OF + ART: but it requires a microscopic glass to appreciate its wonders. + Correctly speaking, probably, such efforts are not in the purest good + taste. Simplicity is the soul of numismatic beauty. + +[179] The Artist who struck the series of medals to commemorate the + campaigns of the Duke of Wellington, from his landing in Portugal to + the battle of Waterloo. + +[180] [See the OPPOSITE PLATE, which represents the upper part of the + Picture.] + +[181] [I sent a commission for it, for a friend, at the sale of Mr. + Craufurd's effects, but lost it.] + +[182] [Purchased by myself: and now at Hodnet.] + +[183] [This picture was purchased for the gallery at ALTHORP. There is an + exquisite drawing of it by Wright, for the purpose of a stipling + engraving.] + +[184] It was purchased by the late King of France for 10,000 francs. + +[185] [Purchased for the gallery at ALTHORP.] + +[186] The above quotation is incomplete; for the passage alluded to runs + thus.--"Where is the painter so well sorting his colours, that could + paint these faire eyes that are the _windows of the body, and glasses + of the soul_." The continuation is in a very picturesque style. See + the _Theatre or Rule of the World_, p. 236-7, quoted in a recent + (1808) edition of _More's Utopia_, vol. ii. p. 143. But _Primaudaye's + French Academy_, Lond. 1605, 4to. runs very much in the same strain. + +[187] A little graphic history belongs to this picture. I obtained a most + beautiful and accurate copy of it by M. Le Coeuré, on a reduced scale: + from which Mr. J. Thomson made an Engraving, as a PRIVATE PLATE, and + only 75 copies were struck off. The plate was then destroyed; the + impressions selling for a guinea. They are now so rare as to be worth + treble that sum: and proofs upon India paper, before the letter, may + be worth £5. 5s. Three proofs only were struck off of the plate in its + _mutilated_ state; of which my friends Mr. Haslewood and Mr. G. H. + Freeling rejoice in their possession of a copy. The drawing, by + Coeuré, was sold for 20 guineas at the sale of my drawings, by Mr. + Evans, in 1822, but it has been subsequently sold for only _nine_ + guineas; and of which my worthy friend A. Nicholson, Esq.--"a good + man, and a true"--is in the possession. + + Subsequently, the ABOVE ORIGINAL picture was sold; and I was too happy + to procure it for the gallery at Althorp for _twelve_ guineas only! + +[188] [A magnificent whole length portrait of this first DUKE DE GUISE, + painted by PORBUS--with a warmth and vigour of touch, throughout, + which are not unworthy of Titian--now adorns the very fine gallery at + Althorp: where is also a whole length portrait of ANNE OF AUSTRIA, by + Mignard. Both pictures are from the same Collection; and are each + probably the masterpiece of the artist. They are of the size of life.] + +[189] [Mr. Craufurd died at Paris in 1821.] + +[190] ["Amateurs, connaisseurs, examinateurs, auteurs de revues du Salon, + parodistes même, vous n'entendez rien à ce genre de critique; prenez + M. Dibdin pour modèle: voila' la _bonne école_!" CHAPELET, vol. + iv. p. 200. My translator shall here have the full benefit of his own + bombastical nonsense.] + + + + +_LETTER XI._ + +NOTICE OF M. WILLEMIN'S MONUMENS FRANÇAIS INÉDITS. MISCELLANEOUS +ANTIQUITIES. PRESENT STATE OF THE FINE ARTS. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS UPON THE +NATIONAL CHARACTER. + +_July 8, 1818_. + + +I rejoice that it is in my power once more--and certainly for the last +time, from hence--to address you upon a few subjects, which, from your +earlier replies to my Paris letters, you seem to think that I have lost +sight of. These subjects, relate chiefly to ANTIQUITIES. Be assured that I +have never, for one moment, been indifferent to them; but in the vast +bibliographical field which the public libraries of this place held out for +my perambulation, it was impossible, in the first instance, not to take +advantage of the curious, and probably useful information, to be derived +from thence. + +I must begin therefore by telling you that I had often heard of the +unassuming and assiduous author of the _Monumens Français Inédits_, and was +resolved to pay him a visit. I found him in the _Rue Babile_ towards the +eastern end of the Rue St. Honoré, living on the third floor. Several young +females were in the ante-room, colouring the plates of that work; which are +chiefly in outline and in aqua-tint. Each livraison contains six plates, at +twelve francs the livraison. The form is folio, and about twenty-eight +numbers are printed.[191] There is something in them of every thing: +furniture, dresses, houses, castles, churches, stained glass, paintings, +and sculpture. Illuminated MSS. are as freely laid under contribution as +are the outsides and insides of buildings, of whatsoever description. +Indeed I hardly ever visited the Public Library without finding M. Willemin +busied, with his pencil and tracing paper, with some ancient illuminated +MS. The style of art in the publication here noticed, is, upon the whole, +feeble; but as the price of the work is moderate, no purchaser can +reasonably complain. The variety and quantity of the embellishments will +always render M. Willemin's work an acceptable inmate in every well-chosen +library. I recommend it to you strongly; premising, that the author +professedly discards all pretension to profound or very critical +antiquarian learning. + +For himself, M. Willemin is among the most enthusiastic, but most modest, +of his antiquarian brethren. He has seen better days. His abode and manners +afford evidence that he was once surrounded by comparative affluence and +respectability. A picture of his deceased wife hung over the chimney-piece. +The back-ground evinced a gaily furnished apartment. "Yes, Sir, (said +M.W.--on observing that I noticed it) such was _once_ my room, and its +_chief ornament_"--Of course I construed the latter to be his late wife. +"Alas! (resumed he) in better days, I had six splendid cabinets filled with +curiosities. I have now--not a single one! Such is life." He admitted that +his publication brought him a very trifling profit; and that, out of his +own country, he considered the _London_ market as the most advantageous to +him. A large broken phial, containing water and a fleur-de-lis in full +bloom, was the only, ornament of his mantle piece. "Have you no curiosities +of any kind--(said I to him) for sale?" "None--" replied he; but he had +_drawings_ of a few. "Have the kindness to shew me some of these +drawings"--and forthwith appeared the case and _pocket-knife of Diane de +Poictiers_, drawn from the original by Langlois. "Where is the original?" +observed I, hastily. "Ha, Sir, you are not singular in your question. A +nobleman of your country was almost losing his wits because he could not +purchase it:--and yet, this original was once to be obtained for _twenty +louis_!" I confess I was glad to obtain the drawing of Langlois for two +napoleons. It is minutely and prettily executed, and apparently with great +fidelity. + +M. Willemin proceeded to shew me a few more drawings for his national work, +telling me precisely what he _meant_, and what he did _not_ mean, to +publish. His own drawings with a pen are, some of them, of a masterly +execution; and although of a less brilliant and less classical style than +those of LE NOIR, M. Willemin is still an artist of whom his country will +always have reason to be proud. I bought several drawings of him.[192] One +represents the sculptured figures upon the outside of the _grand portal_ of +the _Cathedral of Chartres._ These figures seem to be of the thirteenth +century. The other drawing is of a rich piece of _fayence_, or of painted +and glazed earthenware dish, and about the middle of the sixteenth century: +of which I remember to have seen some very curious specimens at Denon's. +But nothing can be more singular, and at the same time more beautiful of +its kind, than the present specimen--supposed to be the work of the famous +Bernard Palissy. Paris is full of such treasures. + +Of all cities, PARIS is probably that which abounds with rich and curious +relics of ancient art. Its churches, its palaces, its public buildings-- +sometimes grotesque and sometimes magnificent--furnish alike subjects for +admiration and materials for collection. But the genius of the French does +not lie in this pursuit. From the commencement of the sixteenth century, +the ANTIQUITIES OF PARIS might have supplied a critical antiquary with +matter for a publication which could have been second only to the immortal +work of Piranesi. But with the exception of Montfaucon, (which I admit to +be a most splendid exception) and recently of MILLIN and LE NOIR, France +hardly boasts of an indigenous Antiquary. In our own country, we have good +reason to be proud of this department of literature. The names of Leland, +Camden, Cotton, Dugdale, Gibson, Tanner, Gough, and Lysons, place us even +upon a level with the antiquarians of Italy. It was only the other day that +M. Willemin was urging me, on my return to England, to take _Beauvais_ in +my way, in order to pay a visit to Madame la Comtesse de G., living at a +chateau about three leagues from that place. She possesses a collection of +carved wood, in bas-reliefs, porches, stair-cases, &c. all from a +neighbouring dilapidated abbey; and, among other things, one singular piece +of sculpture, descriptive of the temptation of St Anthony. He had reason to +think that the Countess might be more successfully tempted than was the +Saint just mentioned; in other words, that these things were to be had +rather for "money" than for "love." + +For specimens of the costume of the lower classes, the _south_ side of the +Seine must be chiefly visited. The great streets which lead thither are +those of _St. Victor, St. Jaques_, and _De La Harpe_. Mr. Lewis had +frequently strolled to this quarter of Paris; and his attention was one +morning particularly directed to a group of _Blanchisseuses_--who were +halting beneath their burdens to have a little gossip with each other. See +how characteristically he has treated the subject. + +[Illustration] + +One of the causes of the want of encouragement in NATIONAL ANTIQUITIES, +among the French, may arise from the natural love of the people for what is +gay and gaudy, rather than for what is grave and instructive. And yet, when +will nations learn that few things tend so strongly to keep alive a pure +spirit of PATRIOTISM as _such_ a study or pursuit? As we reverence the +past, so do we anticipate the future. To love what our forefathers have +done in arts, in arms, or in learning, is to lay the surest foundation for +a proper respect for our own memories in after ages. But with Millin, I +fear, the study of Archaeology will sleep soundly, if not expire, among the +Parisians. VISCONTI has doubtless left a splendid name behind him here; but +Visconti was an Italian. No; my friend--the ARTS have recently taken an +exclusive turn for the admiration, even to adoration, of portrait and +historical painters: No LYSONSES, no BLORES, no MACKENZIES are patronised +either at Paris or in the other great cities of France. I must however make +an honourable exception in favour of the direction given to the splendid +talents of MADAME JAQUOTOT. And I cannot, in common justice, omit, on this +occasion, paying a very sincere tribute of respect to the PRESENT +KING[193]--who has really been instrumental to this direction. I have +lately paid this clever lady a morning visit, with a letter of introduction +from our common friend M. Langlès. As I was very courteously received, I +begged that I might only see such specimens of her art as would give her +the least possible trouble, and afford me at the same time an opportunity +of judging of her talents. + +Madame Jaquotot was as liberal in the display of her productions, as she +was agreeable and polite in her conversation. I saw all her performances. +Her copies of Leonardo da Vinci and Guido, in black crayons, are beautiful +of their kind; but her enamel copies, upon porcelaine, of the _Portraits of +the more celebrated Characters of France_--executed at the desire and +expense of his Majesty--perfectly delighted me. The plan is as excellent as +its execution is perfect. But such performances have not been accomplished +without a heavy previous expense, on the score of experiments. I was told +that the artist had sunk a sum little short of five or six hundred pounds +sterling, in the different processes for trying and fixing her colours. But +she seems now to walk upon firm ground, and has nothing but an abundant +harvest to look forward to. Indeed, for every portrait, square, or oval, +(although scarcely more than _three inches_ in height) she receives a +hundred louis d'or. This is a truly princely remuneration: but I do not +consider it overpaid. Some of the earlier portraits are taken from +illuminated manuscripts; and, among them, I quickly recognised that of my +old friend _Anne of Brittany_,--head and shoulders only: very brilliant and +characteristic--but Mr. Lewis is "yet a painter." + +As all these bijoux (amounting perhaps to twelve or fifteen in number) were +displayed before me, I fancied I was conversing with the very Originals +themselves. The whole length of _Henri IV_., of the same size as the +original in the Louvre, is probably the chef d'oeuvre of Madame Jaquotot. +It is exquisitely perfect. When she comes down to the reign of Louis XIV., +she has necessarily recourse to the originals of PETITOT; of which the +Louvre contains a precious glazed case, enclosing about four or five dozen, +of them. Here again the copyist treads closely upon the heels of her +predecessor; while her portrait of _Anne of Austria_ comes fully up to +every thing we discover in the original. Upon the whole, I spent a pleasant +and most instructive hour with this accomplished lady; and sincerely wish +that all talents, like hers, may receive a similar direction and meet with +an equally liberal reward. You must not fail to bear in mind that, in my +humble judgment, this department of art belongs strictly to NATIONAL +ANTIQUITIES. + +For _one_, who would turn his horse's head towards Madame Jaquotot's +dwelling, in the _Rue Jacob_, fifty would fly with rapture to view a whole +length by GÉRARD, or a group by DAVID. In portrait painting, and historical +composition, these are the peculiar heroes. None dare walk within their +circle: although I think GIRODET may sometimes venture to measure swords +with the latter. Would you believe it? The other day, when dining with some +smart, lively, young Parisians, I was compelled to defend RAFFAELLE against +David? the latter being considered by them _superior_ to the Italian artist +in a _knowledge of drawing_. Proh pudor! This will remind you of Jervas's +celebrated piece of nonsensical flattery to himself--when, on Pope's +complimenting that artist upon one of his portraits, he compassionately +exclaimed "_Poor little Tit_!"--Surely all these national prejudices are as +unwise as they are disgusting. Of Gérard, I would wish to speak with +respect; but an artist, who receives from fifteen to twenty thousand francs +for the painting of a whole length portrait, stands upon an eminence which +exposes him to the observation of every man. In the same degree, also, does +his elevation provoke the criticism of every man. But, however respectfully +I may wish to speak of Gérard, I do not, in my conscience, consider him +superior to what may be called the _second rate_ class of portrait-painters +in England.[194] His outline is often hard, and full of affectation of a +knowledge of drawing: his colouring is as frequently severe and metallic, +and there is rarely any expression of mind or soul in his faces. I saw at +Laugier's the other day, his portrait of Madame de Stael--painted from +_recollection_. He certainly had _forgotten_ how to _colour_ when he +executed it. Forster (a very clever, sensible, and amiable young man) is +busied, or rather has just finished, the engraving of a portrait of the +Duke of Wellington, by the same painter. What has depended upon _him_ has +been charmingly done: but the figure of the great Original--instead of +giving you the notion of the FIRST CAPTAIN OF HIS AGE[195]--is a poor, +trussed-up, unmeaning piece of composition: looking-out of the canvas with +a pair of eyes, which, instead of seeming to anticipate and frustrate (as +they _have_ done) the movements of his adversary, as if by magic, betray an +almost torpidity or vacancy of expression! The attitude is equally +unnatural and ungraceful. Another defect, to my eye, in Gérard's portraits, +is, the quantity of flaunting colour and glare of varnish with which his +canvas is covered. + +The French cognoscenti swear by "the _swearing of the Horatii_" of David. I +saw a reduced copy of the large picture at the Luxembourg, by the artist +himself--at Didot's: and it was while discussing the comparative merits and +demerits of this famous production, that I ventured to observe that +Raffaelle would have drawn the hands better. A simultaneous shout of +opposition followed the remark. I could scarcely preserve common gravity or +decorum: but as my antagonists were serious, I was also resolved to enact a +serious part. It is not necessary to trouble you with a summary of my +remarks; although I am persuaded I never talked so much French, without +interruption, for so long a space of time. However, my opponents admitted, +with a little reluctance, that, if the hands of the Horatii were not ill +drawn, the _position_ of them was sufficiently affected. I then drew their +attention, to the _Cupid and Psyche_ of the same master, in the collection +of the Marquis of Sommariva, (in the notice of which my last letter was +pretty liberal) but I had here a less obstinate battle to encounter. It +certainly appeared (they admitted) that David did not improve as he became +older. + +Among the Painters of eminence I must not forget to mention LAURENT. The +French are not very fond of him, and certainly they under-rate his talents. +As a colourist, some of his satins may vie with those of Vanderwerf. He +paints portraits, in small, as well as fancy-subjects. Of the former, that +of his daughter is beautifully executed. Of the latter, his _Young +Falconer_ is a production of the most captivating kind. But it is his _Joan +of Arc_ which runs away with the prize of admiration. The Government have +purchased the house in which that celebrated female was born,[196] and over +the door of which an ancient statue of her is to be seen. Laurent's +portrait is also purchased to be placed over the chimney-piece of the room; +and it is intended to supply furniture, of the character which it +originally might have possessed. + +But if France cannot now boast her Mignard, Rigaud, or the Poussins, she +has reason to be proud of her present race of _Engravers_. Of these, +DESNOYERS evidently takes the lead. He is just now in Italy, and I shall +probably not see him--having twice called in vain. I own undisguisedly that +I am charmed with all his performances; and especially with his sacred +subjects from Raffaelle:--whom, it is just possible, he may consider to be +a somewhat better draftsman than David. There is hardly any thing but what +he adorns by his touch. He may consider the whole length portrait of +_Bonaparte_ to be his chef-d'oeuvre; but his _Vierge au Linge, Vierge dite +la Belle Jardinière_,--and perhaps, still finer, that called _au +Donataire_--are infinitely preferable, to my taste. The portrait has too +much of detail. It is a combination of little parts; of flowered robes, +with a cabinet-like background: every thing being almost mechanical, and +the shield of the ex-Emperor having all the elaborate minutiæ of Grignion. +I am heretic enough to prefer the famous whole length of poor Louis XVI, by +Bervic after Callet: there is such a flow of line and gracefulness of +expression in this latter performance! But Desnoyers has uncommon force, as +well as sweetness and tenderness, in the management of historical subjects: +although I think that his recent production of _Eliezer and Rebecca_, from +_Nicolo Poussin_, is unhappy--as to choice. His females have great +elegance. His line never flows more freely than in the treatment of his +female figures; yet he has nothing of the style of finishing of our +STRANGE. His _Francis_ I, and _Marguerite de Valois_ is, to my eye, one of +the most finished, successful, and interesting of his performances. It is +throughout a charming picture, and should hang over half the mantle pieces +in the kingdom. His portrait of _Talleyrand_ is brilliant; but there are +parts very much too black. It will bear no comparison with the glorious +portrait of our _John Hunter_, by Sharp--from Sir J. Reynolds. Desnoyers +engraves only for himself: that is to say, he is the sole proprietor of his +performances, and report speaks him to be in the receipt of some +twenty-five thousand francs per annum. He deserves all he has gained--both +in fortune and reputation. + +MASSARD works in the same school with Desnoyers. He is harder in his style +of outline as well as of finishing; but he understands his subject +thoroughly, and treats it with skill and effect. ANDOUIN is lately come out +with a whole length portrait of the present king: a palpable copy, as to +composition, of that of his late brother. There are parts of the detail +most exquisitely managed, but the countenance is rather too severely +marked. LIGNON is the prince of portrait-engravers. His head of +_Mademoiselle Mars_--though, upon the whole, exhibiting a flat, and +unmeaning countenance, when we consider that it represents the first comic +actress in Europe--is a master-piece of graphic art. It is wrought with +infinite care, brilliancy, and accuracy. The lace, over the lady's +shoulder, may bid defiance even to what Drevet and Masson have effected of +the like kind. The eyes and the gems of Mademoiselle Mars seem to sparkle +with a rival lustre; but the countenance is too flat, and the nose wants +elevation and beauty. For this latter, however, neither Gérard nor Lignon +are amenable to criticism. Upon the whole, it is a very surprising +performance. If I were called upon to notice Lignon's chef d'oeuvre, I +would mention the frontispiece to the magnificent impression of _Camoens' +Lusiad_, containing the head of the author, surrounded by an arabesque +border of the most surprising brilliancy of composition and execution. You +must however remember, that it is in the splendid work entitled LE MUSÉE +FRANÇAIS, that many fine specimens of all the artists just mentioned are to +be found. There is no occasion to be more particular in the present place. + +I must not omit the notice of FORSTER and LAUGIER: both of whom I have +visited more than once. At the same time, I beg it may be distinctly +understood that the omission of the names of _other_ engravers is no +implication that they are passed over as being unworthy of regard. On the +contrary, there are several whom I could mention who might take precedence +even of the two last noticed. Some of Forster's academic figures, which +gained him the prize, are very skilfully treated; both as to drawing and +finishing. His print of _Titian's Mistress_ exhibits, in the face and bosom +of the female, a power and richness of effect which may contend with some +of the best efforts of Desnoyers's burin. The reflex-light, in the mirror +behind, is admirably managed; but the figure of Titian, and the lower parts +of his Mistress--especially the arms and hands--are coarse, black, and +inharmonious. His _Wellington_ is a fine performance, as to mechanical +skill. M. Bénard, the well-known print-seller to his Majesty, living on the +_Boulevards Italiens_, laughed with me the other day at the rival +Wellington--painted by Lawrence, and engraved by Bromley,--as a piece of +very inferior art! But men may laugh on the wrong side of the face. I +consider, however, that what has depended upon Forster, has been done with +equal ability and truth. Undoubtedly the great failing of the picture is, +that it can hardly be said to have even a faint resemblance of the +original. + +M. Laugier has not yet reached his full powers of maturity; but what he has +done is remarkable for feeling and force. His _Daphne and Chloe_, and _Hero +and Leander_ are early performances, but they are full of promise, and +abound in excellences. Colour and feeling are their chief merit. The latter +print has the shadows too dark. The former is more transparent, more +tender, and in better keeping. The foreground has, in some parts, the +crispness and richness of Woollett. They tell me that it is a rare print, +and that only 250 copies were struck off--at the expense of the Society of +Arts. Laugier has recently executed a very elaborate print of Leander, just +in the act of reaching the shore--(where his mistress is trembling for his +arrival in a lighted watch-tower) but about to be buried in the +overwhelming waves. The composition of the figure is as replete with +affectation, as its position is unnatural, if not impossible. The waves +seem to be suspended over him--on purpose to shew off his limbs to every +degree of advantage. He is perfectly canopied by their "gracefully-curled +tops." The engraving itself is elaborate to excess: but too stiff, even to +a metallic effect. It can never be popular with us; and will, I fear, find +but few purchasers in the richly garnished repertoire of the worthy +Colnaghi. Indeed it is a painful, and almost repulsive, subject. Laugier's +portrait of _Le Vicomte de Chateaubriand_ exhibits his prevailing error of +giving blackness, rather than depth, to his shadows. Black hair, a black +cravat, and black collar to the coat--with the lower part of the background +almost "gloomy as night"--are not good accessories. This worthy engraver +lives at present with his wife, an agreeable and unaffected little woman, +up four pair of stairs, in the _Rue de Paradis_. I told him--and as I +thought with the true spirit of prediction--that, on a second visit to +Paris I should find him descended--full two stories: in proportion as he +was ascending in fortune and fame. + +The French are either not fond of, or they do not much patronise, engraving +in the _stippling_ manner: "_au poinctilliet_"--as they term it. Roger is +their chief artist in this department. He is clever, undoubtedly; but his +shadows are too black, and the lighter parts of his subjects want +brilliancy. What he does "en petit," is better than what he does upon a +larger scale." In _mezzotint_ the Parisians have not a single artist +particularly deserving of commendation. They are perhaps as indifferent as +we are somewhat too extravagantly attached, to it. Speaking of the FRENCH +SCHOOL OF ENGRAVING, in a general and summary manner--especially of the +line engravers--one must admit that there is a great variety of talent; +combined with equal knowledge of drawing and of execution; but the general +effect is too frequently hard, glittering, and metallic. The draperies have +sometimes the severity of armour; and the accessories, of furniture or +other objects, are frequently too highly and elaborately finished. Nor is +the flesh always free from the appearance of marble. But the names I have +mentioned, although not entirely without some of these defects, have great +and more than counter-balancing excellences. + +In the midst of all the graphic splendour of modern Paris, it was +delightful music to my ears to hear WILKIE and RAIMBACH so highly extolled +by M. Bénard. "Ha, votre _Wilkie_--voilà un génie distingué!" Who could say +"nay?" But let BURNET have his share of graphic praise; for the _Blind +Fiddler_ owes its popularity throughout Europe to _his_ burin. They have +recently copied our friend Wilkie's productions on a small scale, in +aqua-tint; cleverly enough--for three francs a piece. I told Benard that +the Duke of Wellington had recently bespoke a picture from Mr. Wilkie's +pencil. "What is the subject to be?"--demanded he, quickly. I replied, in +the very simplicity of my heart, "Soldiers regaling themselves, on +receiving the news of the victory of Waterloo." Mons. Bénard was paralised +for one little moment: but rallying quickly, he answered, with perfect +truth, as I conceive "_Comment donc_, TOUT EST WATERLOO, _chez vous!_" M. +Bénard spoke very naturally, and I will not find fault with him for such a +response; for he is an obliging, knowing, and a very pleasant tradesman to +do business with. He admits, readily and warmly, that we have great +artists, both as painters and engravers; and pointing to Sharpe's _John +Hunter_ and _The Doctors of the Church_--which happened to be hanging just +before us--he observed that "these, efforts had never been surpassed by his +own countrymen." I told him (while conversing about the respective merits +of the British and French Schools of Engraving) that it appeared to me, +that in France, there was no fine feeling for LANDSCAPE ENGRAVING; and +that, as to ANTIQUARIAN art, what had been produced in the publications of +Mr. Britton, and in the two fine topographical works--Mr. Clutterbuck's +Hertfordshire," and. Mr. Surtees' Durham--exhibited such specimens of the +burin, in that department, as could scarcely be hoped to be excelled.[197] +M. Bénard did not very strenuously combat these observations. The great +mart for _Printselling_ is the Boulevards; and more especially that of the +_Boulevards Italiens_. A stranger can have no conception of the gaiety and +brilliance of the print-shops, and print-stalls, in this neighbourhood. Let +him first visit it in the morning about nine o'clock; with the sun-beams +sparkling among the foliage of the trees, and the incessant movements of +the populace below, who are about commencing another day's pilgrimage of +human life. A pleasant air is stirring at this time; and the freshness +arising from the watering of the footpath--but more particularly the +fragrance from innumerable bouquets, with mignonette, rose trees, and +lilacs--extended in fair array--is altogether quite charming and singularly +characteristic. But my present business is with prints. You see them, +hanging in the open air--framed and not framed--for some quarter of a mile: +with the intermediate space filled by piles of calf-bound volumes and sets +of apparently countless folios. Here are _Moreri, Bayle_, the _Dictionnaire +de Trévoux, Charpentier_, and the interminable _Encyclopédie_: all very +tempting of their kind, and in price:--but all utterly unpurchasable--on +account of the heavy duties of importation, arising from their weight. + +However--again I say--my present business is with _Prints_. Generally +speaking, these prints are pleasing in their manner of execution, +reasonable in price, and of endless variety. But the perpetual intrusion of +subjects of studied nudity is really at times quite disgusting. It is +surprising (as I think I before remarked to you) with what utter +indifference and apathy, even females, of respectable appearance and dress, +will be gazing upon these subjects; and now that the art of _lithography_ +is become fashionable, the print-shops of Paris will be deluged with an +inundation of these odious representations, which threaten equally to +debase the art and to corrupt morals. This cheap and wholesale circulation +of what is mischievous, and of really most miserable execution, is much to +be deplored. Even in the better part of art, lithography will have a +pernicious effect. Not only a well-educated and distinguished engraver will +find, in the long run his business slackening from the reduced prices at +which prints. are sold, but a _bad taste_ will necessarily be the result: +for the generality of purchasers, not caring for comparative excellence in +art, will be well pleased to give _one_ franc, for what, before, they could +not obtain under _three_ or _five_. Hence we may date the decline and +downfall of art itself. I was surprised, the other day, at hearing DENON +talk so strongly in favour of lithography. I told him "it was a bastard +art; and I rejoiced, in common with every man of taste or feeling, that +_that_ art had not made its appearance before the publication of his work +upon Egypt." It may do well for + + "The whisker'd pandour and the fierce hussar"-- + +or it may, in the hands of such a clever artist as VERNET, be managed with +good effect in representations of skirmishes of horse and foot--groups of +banditti--a ruined battlement, or mouldering tower--overhanging rocks-- +rushing torrents--or umbrageous trees--but, in the higher department of +art, as connected with portrait and historical engraving, it cannot, I +apprehend, attain to any marked excellence.[198] Portraits however--of a +particular description--_may_ be treated with tolerable success; but when +you come to put lithographic engraving in opposition to that of _line_--the +_latter_ will always and necessarily be + + ... velut inter ignes + LUNA minores! + +I cannot take leave of A CITY, in which I have tarried so long, and with so +much advantage to myself, without saying one word about the manners, +customs, and little peculiarities of character of those with whom I have +been recently associating. Yet the national character is pretty nearly the +same at Rouen and at Caen, as at Paris; except that you do not meet with +those insults from the _canaille_ which are but too frequent at these +first-mentioned places. Every body here is busy and active, yet very few. +have any thing _to do_--in the way of what an Englishman would call +_business_. The thoughtful brow, the abstracted, look, the hurried step.. +which you see along Cheapside and Cornhill ... are here of comparatively +rare appearance. Yet every body is "sur le pavé." Every body seems to live +out of doors. How the _ménage_ goes on--and: how domestic education is +regulated--strikes the inexperienced eye of an Englishman as a thing quite +inconceivable. The temperature of Paris is no doubt very fine, although it +has been of late unprecedentedly hot; and a French workman, or labourer, +enjoys, out of doors--from morning till night those meals, which, with us, +are usually partaken of within. The public places of entertainment are +pretty sure to receive a prodigious proportion of the population of Paris +every evening. A mechanic, or artisan, will devote two thirds of his daily +gains to the participation of this pleasure. His dinner will consist of the +most meagre fare--at the lowest possible price--provided, in the evening, +he can hear _Talma_ declaim, _or Albert_ warble, or see _Pol_ leap, or +_Bigotini_ entrance a wondering audience by the grace of her movements, and +the pathos of her dumb shew, in _Nina._ + +The preceding strikes me as the general complexion of character of three +fourths of the Parisians: but then they are gay, and cheerful, and +apparently happy. If they have not the phlegm of the German, or the +thoughtfulness of ourselves, they are less cold, and less insensible to the +passing occurrences of life. A little pleases them, and they give in return +much more than they receive. One thing, however, cannot fail to strike and +surprise an attentive observer of national character. With all their +quickness, enthusiasm, and activity, the mass of French people want that +admirable quality which I unfeignedly think is the particular +characteristic of ourselves:--I mean, _common sense_. In the midst of their +architectural splendor--while their rooms are refulgent with gilding and +plate-glass; while their mantle-pieces sparkle with or-molu clocks; or +their tables are decorated with vases, and artificial flowers of the most +exquisite workmanship--and while their carpets and curtains betray +occasionally all the voluptuousness of eastern pomp ... you can scarcely +obtain egress or ingress into the respective apartments, from the +wretchedness of their _locks_ and _keys!_ Mechanical studies or +improvements should seem to be almost entirely uncultivated--for those who +remember France nearly half a century ago, tell me that it was pretty much +then as it is now. Another thing discomposes the sensitive nerves of the +English; especially those of our notable housewives. I allude to the +rubbishing appearance of their _grates_--and the dingy and sometimes +disgusting aspect of carpets and flowered furniture. A good mahogany dining +table is a perfect rarity[199]--and let him, who stands upon a chair to +take down a quarto or octavo, beware how he encounter a broken shin or +bruised elbow, from the perpendicularity of the legs of that same chair. + +The same want of common-sense, cleanliness, and convenience--is visible in +nearly the whole of the French ménage. Again, in the streets--their +cabriolet drivers and hackney coachmen are sometimes the most furious of +their tribe. I rescued, the other day, an old and respectable gentleman-- +with the cross of St. Louis appendant to his button-hole--from a situation, +in which, but for such a rescue, he must have been absolutely knocked down +and rode over. He shook his cane at the offender; and, thanking me very +heartily for my protection, observed, "these rascals improve daily in their +studied insult of all good Frenchmen." The want of _trottoirs_ is a serious +and even absurd want; as it might be so readily supplied. Their carts are +obviously ill-constructed, and especially in the caps of the wheels; which, +in a narrow street--as those of Paris usually are--unnecessarily occupy a +_foot_ of room, where scarcely an _inch_ can be spared. The rubbish piled +against the posts, in different parts of the street, is as disgusting as it +is obviously inconvenient. A police "ordonnance" would obviate all this in +twenty-four hours. + +Yet in many important respects the Parisian multitude read a lesson to +ourselves. In their public places of resort, the French are wonderfully +decorous; and along the streets, no lady is insulted by the impudence of +either sex. You are sure to walk in peace, if you conduct yourself +peaceably. I had intended to say a word upon morals: and religion; but the +subject, while it is of the highest moment, is beyond the reach of a +traveller whose stay is necessarily short, and whose occupations, upon the +whole, have been confined rather among the dead than the living. + +Farewell, therefore, to PARIS. I have purchased a very commodious +travelling carriage; to which a pair of post-horses will be attached in a +couple of days--and then, for upwards of three hundred miles of +journey--towards STRASBOURG! No schoolboy ever longed for a holiday more +ardently than I do for the relaxation which this journey will afford me. A +thousand hearty farewells! + + +[191] [The work is now perfect in 3 volumes.] + +[192] [I here annex a fac-simile of his autograph from the foot of the + account for these drawings.] + + [Illustration] + +[193] Then, Louis XVIII. + +[194] ["Sir T. Lawrence, who painted the portrait of the late Duke de + Richlieu, which was seen at the last exhibition, is undoubtedly of the + first class of British Portrait painters; but, according to Mr. + Dibdin's judgment, many artists would have preferred to have sided + with our Gérard." CRAPELET. vol. iv. 220. I confess I do not + understand this reasoning: nor perhaps will my readers.] + +[195] [Here, Mons. Crapelet drily and pithily says, "Translated from the + English." What then? Can there be the smallest shadow of doubt about + the truth of the above assertion? None--with Posterity.] + +[196] At Domremi, in Lorraine. + +[197] When Desnoyers was over here, in 1819, he unequivocally expressed his + rapture about our antiquarian engravings--especially of Gothic + churches. Mr. Wild's _Lincoln Cathedral_ produced a succession of + ecstatic remarks. "When your fine engravings of this kind come over to + Paris we get little committees to sit upon them"--observed Desnoyers + to an engraver--who communicated the fact to the author. + +[198] [The experience of ten years has confirmed THE TRUTH of the above + remark.] + +[199] [Not so now! Mahogany, according to M. Crapelet, is every where at + Paris, and at the lowest prices.] + + + + +_LETTER XII._ + +PARIS TO STRASBOURG. + +_Hotel de l'Esprit, Strasbourg, July 20, 1818_. + + +I can hardly describe to you the gratification I felt on quitting the +"trein-trein".of Paris for the long, and upon the whole interesting, +journey to the place whence I date this despatch. My love of rural sights, +and of rural enjoyments of almost every kind, has been only equalled by my +admiration of the stupendous Cathedral of this celebrated city. But not a +word about the city of Strasbourg itself, for the present. My description, +both of _that_ and of its _curiosities_, will be properly reserved for +another letter; when I shall necessarily have had more leisure and fitter +opportunities for the execution of the task. On the eleventh of this month, +precisely at ten o'clock, the rattling of the hoofs of two lusty post +horses--together with the cracking of an _experimental_ flourish or two of +the postilion's whip--were heard in the court-yard of the Hôtel des +Colonies. Nothing can exceed the punctuality of the Poste Royale in the +attendance of the horses at the precise hour of ordering them. Travellers, +and especially those from our _own_ country, are not _quite_ so punctual in +availing themselves of this regularity; but if you keep the horses for the +better part of an hour before you start, you must pay something extra for +your tardiness. Of all people, the _English_ are likely to receive the most +useful lesson from this wholesome regulation. By a quarter past ten, Mr. +Lewis and myself having mounted our voiture, and given the signal for +departure, received the "derniers adieux" of Madame the hostess, and of the +whole corps of attendants. On leaving the gates of the hotel, the postilion +put forth all his energies in sundry loud smackings of his whip; and as we +went at a cautious pace through the narrower streets, towards the _Barriers +of St. Martin_, I could not but think, with inward satisfaction, that, on +visiting and leaving a city, so renowned as Paris, for the _first_ time, I +had gleaned more intellectual fruit than I had presumed to hope for; and +that I had made acquaintances which might probably ripen into a long and +steady friendship. In short, my own memoranda, together with the drawings +of Messrs. Lewis and Coeuré, were results, which convinced me that my time +had not been mispent, and that my objects of research were not quite +undeserving of being recorded. Few reflections give one so much pleasure, +on leaving, a city--where there are so many thousand temptations to abuse +time and to destroy character. + +The day of our departure was very fine, tending rather to heat. In a little +half hour we cleared the barrier of St. Martin, and found ourselves on the +broad, open, route royale--bordered by poplars and limes. To the right, was +the pretty village of _Belleville:_ to the left, at the distance of some +six or eight English miles, we observed _Montmorenci, St. Germain en Laye_, +and, considerably nearer, _St. Denis_. All these places, together with +_Versailles,_ I had previously visited--Montmorenci and St. Denis twice-- +and intended to have given you an account of them; but you could have +received from me scarcely any thing more than what the pages of the +commonest tour would have supplied you with. We first changed horses at +_Bondy_, the forest of which was once very extensive and much celebrated. +You now behold little more than a formal avenue of trees. The _Castle of +Raincy_, situated in this forest, is to the right, well-wooded--and the +property of the Duke of Orleans. _Ville-Parisis_ was the next prettiest +spot, in our route to _Claye_, where we again changed horses. The whole +route, from _Ville-Parisis_ to _Meaux_, was exceedingly pleasing and even +picturesque. At Meaux we dined, and have reason to remember the extravagant +charges of the woman who kept the inn. The heat of the day was now becoming +rather intense. While our veal-cutlet was preparing, we visited the church; +which had frequently, and most picturesquely, peeped out upon us during our +route. It is a large, cathedral-like looking church, without transepts, +Only one tower (in the west front), is built--with the evident intention of +raising another in the same aspect. They were repairing the west front, +which is somewhat elaborately ornamented; but so intensely hot was the +sun--on our coming out to examine it--that we were obliged to retreat into +the interior, which seemed to contain the atmosphere of a different +climate. A tall, well-dressed, elderly priest, in company with a +middle-aged lady, were ascending the front steps to attend divine service. +Hot as it was, the priest saluted us, and stood a half minute without his +black cap--with the piercing rays of the sun upon a bald head. The bell +tolled softly, and there was a quiet calm about the whole which almost +invited, us to _postpone_ our attack upon the dinner we had ordered. + +Ten francs for a miserable cutlet--and a yet more wretchedly-prepared +fricandeau--with half boiled artichokes, and a bottle of undrinkable vin +ordinaire--was a charge sufficiently monstrous to have excited the well +known warmth of expostulation of an English traveller--but it was really +too hot to talk aloud! The landlady pocketed my money, and I pocketed the +affront which so shameful a charge may be considered as having put upon me. +We now rolled leisurely on towards _La Ferté-sous-Jouarre:_ about five +French-leagues from Meaux--not without stopping to change horses at _St. +Jean,_ &c. The heat would not even allow of the exercise of the postilion's +whip. Every body, and every thing seemed to be oppressed by it. The +labourer was stretched out in the shade, and the husbandman slept within +the porch of his cottage. We had no sooner entered the little town of La +Ferté-sous-Jouarre, and driven to the post-house, when not fewer than four +blacksmiths came rushing out of their respective forges, to examine every +part of the carriage. "A nail had started here: a screw was wanting there: +and a fracture had taken place in another direction: even the perch was +given way in the centre!" "Alas, for my voiture de voyage!" exclaimed I to +my companion. Meanwhile, a man came forward with a red-hot piece of iron, +in the shape of a cramp, to fix round the perch--which hissed as the +application was made. And all this--before I could say wherefore! or even +open my mouth to express astonishment! They were absolutely about to take +off the wheels of the carriage; to examine, and to grease them--but it was +then for the first time, that I opened a well-directed fire of +expostulation; from which I apprehend that they discovered I was not +perfectly ignorant either of their language or of their trickery. However, +the rogues had _four_ francs for what they had the impudence to ask _six_; +and considering my vehicle to be now proof against the probability of an +accident, I was resolved to leave the town in the same good humour in which +I had entered it. + +On quitting, we mounted slowly up a high ascent, and saw from thence the +village of _Jouarre_, on a neighbouring summit, smothered with trees. It +seemed to consist of a collection of small and elegant country houses, each +with a lawn and an orchard. At the foot of the summit winds the +unostentatious little stream of _Le Petit Morin_ The whole of this scenery, +including the village of _Montreuil-aux-Lions_--a little onwards--was +perfectly charming, and after the English fashion: and as the sky became +mellowed by the rays of the declining sun, the entire landscape assumed a +hue and character which absolutely refreshed our spirits after the heat of +the previous part of the journey. We had resolved to sleep at +_Chateau-Thierry_, about seven leagues off, and the second posting-place +from where we had last halted. Night was coming on, and the moon rose +slowly through a somewhat dense horizon, as we approached our rendezvous +for the evening. All was tranquil and sweet. We drove to the inn called the +_Sirène_, situated in the worst possible part of the town: but we quickly +changed our determination, and bespoke beds for the night, and horses for +the following morning, at the _Poste Royale_. The landlady of the Inn was a +tartar--of her species. She knew how to talk civilly; and, for her, a more +agreeable occupation--how to charge! We had little rest, and less sleep. By +a quarter past five I was in the carriage; intending to breakfast at +_Epernay_, about twenty-five miles off. + +The first post-station is _Parois_. It is a beautiful drive thither, and +the village itself is exceedingly picturesque. From _Parois_ to _Dormans_, +the next post village, the road continues equally interesting. We seemed to +go each post like the wind; and reached _Epernay_ by nine o'clock. The +drive from Dormans to Epernay is charming; and as the sky got well nigh +covered by soft fleecy clouds when we reached the latter place, our +physical strength, as well as animal spirits, seemed benefited by the +change. I was resolved to _bargain_ for every future meal at an inn: and at +Epernay I bespoke an excellent breakfast of fruit, eggs, coffee and tea, at +three francs a head. This town is the great place in France for the +manufacture of _Vin de Champagne_. It is here where they make it in the +greatest quantities; although _Sillery_, near Rheims, boasts of champagne +of a more delicate quality. I learnt here that the Prussians, in their +invasion of France in 1814, committed sad havoc with this tempting +property. They had been insulted, and even partially fired upon--as they +passed through the town,--and to revenge themselves, they broke open the +cellars of M ..., the principal wine merchant; and drank the contents of +only--_one hundred thousand bottles of champagne_!" "But," said the owner +of these cellars, (beyond the reach of the hearing of the Prussians, as you +may be well assured!) "they did not break open my _largest vault_ ... where +I had _half as much again!_. "Indeed, I was told that the wine vaults of +Epernay were as well worth inspection, as the catacombs of Paris. + +I should observe to you that the river _Marne_, one of the second-rate +rivers, of France, accompanies you pretty closely all the way from Chateau +Thierry to Chalons--designated as _Chalons-sur-Marne._ From Epernay to +Chalons you pass through nothing but corn fields. It is a wide and vast +ocean of corn--with hardly a tree, excepting those occasionally along the +road, within a boundary of ten miles. Chalons is a large and populous town; +but the churches bear sad traces of revolutionary fury. Some of the +porches, once covered with a profusion of rich, alto-relievo sculpture, are +absolutely treated as if these ornaments had been pared away to the very +quick! Scarcely a vestige remains. It is in this town where the two great +roads to STRASBOURG--one by _Metz_, and the other by _Nancy_--unite. The +former is to the north, the latter to the south. I chose the latter; +intending to return to Paris by the former. On leaving Chalons, we purposed +halting to dine at _Vitry-sur-Marne_--distant two posts, of about four +leagues each. _La Chaussée,_ which we reached at a very smart trot, was the +first post town, and is about half way to Vitry. From thence we had "to +mount a huge hill"--- as the postilion told us; but it was here, as in +Normandy--these huge hills only provoked our laughter. However, the wheel +was subjected to the drag-chain--and midst clouds of white dust, which +converted us into millers, we were compelled to descend slowly. Vitry was +seen in the distance, which only excited our appetite and made us anxious +to increase our pace. + +On reaching Vitry, I made my terms for dinner with the landlady of the +principal inn--who was literally as sharp as a razor. However, we had a +comfortable room, a good plain dinner, with an excellent bottle of _Vin de +Beaune_, for three francs each. "Could Monsieur refuse this trifling +payment?" He could not. Before dinner I strolled to the principal church-- +which is indeed a structure of a most noble appearance--like that of St. +Sulpice in form, and perhaps of a little more than half its size. It is the +largest parish church which I have yet seen; but it is comparatively +modern. It was Sunday; and a pleasing spectacle presented itself on +entering. A numerous group of young women, dressed almost entirely in +white, with white caps and veils, were singing a sort of evening hymn-- +which I understood to be called the _Chaplet of the Virgin_. Their voices, +unaccompanied by instrumental music, sounded sweetly from the loftiness of +the roof; and every singer seemed to be touched with the deepest sense of +devotion. They sang in an attitude with the body leaning forward, and the +head gently inclined. The silence of the place--its distance from the +metropolis--the grey aspect of the heavens--and the advanced hour of the +day ... all contributed to produce in our minds very pleasing and yet +serious sensations. I shall not easily forget the hymn called THE CHAPLET +OF THE VIRGIN, as it was sung in the church of Vitry. + +After leaving this place we successively changed horses at _Longchamp_ and +at _St. Dizier_. To our great comfort, it began to threaten rain. While the +horses were being changed at the former place, I sat down upon a rough +piece of stone, in the high road, by the side of a well dressed paysanne, +and asked her if she remembered the retreat of Bonaparte in the campaign of +1814--and whether he had passed there? She said she remembered it well. +Bonaparte was on horseback, a little in advance of his troops--and ambled +gently, within six paces of where we were sitting. His head was rather +inclined, and he appeared to be very thoughtful. _St. Dizier_ was the +memorable place upon which Bonaparte made a rapid retrograde march, in +order to get into the rear of the allied troops, and thus possess himself +of their supplies. But this desperate movement, you know, cost him his +capital, and eventually his empire. St. Dizier is rather a large place, and +the houses are almost uniformly white. Night and rain came on together as +we halted to change horses. But we were resolved upon another stage--to +_Saudrupt_: and were now about entering the department of LORRAINE. + +The moon struggled through a murky sky, after the cessation of rain, as we +entered _Saudrupt_: which is little better than a miserable village. +Travellers seldom or never sleep here; but we had gone a very considerable +distance since five in the morning, and were glad of any thing in the shape +of beds. Not an inn in Normandy which we had visited, either by day or by +night, seemed to be more sorry and wretched than this, where we--stretched +our limbs, rather than partook of slumber. At one in the morning, a young +and ardent lover chose to serenade his mistress, who was in the next house, +with a screaming tune upon a half-cracked violin--which, added to the +never-ceasing smacking of whips of farmers, going to the next market town-- +completed our state of restlessness and misery. Yet, the next morning, we +had a breakfast ... so choice, so clean, and so refreshing--in a place of +all others the least apparently likely to afford it--that we almost fancied +our strength had been recruited by a good night's sleep. The landlord could +not help his miserable mansion, for he was very poor: so I paid him +cheerfully and liberally for the accommodation he was capable of affording, +and at nine o'clock left Saudrupt in the hope of a late dinner at NANCY-- +the capital of Lorraine. + +The morning was fresh and fair. In the immediate neighbourhood of Saudrupt +is the pretty village of _Brillon_, where I noticed some stone crosses; and +where I observed that particular species of domestic architecture, which, +commencing almost at Longchamps, obtains till within nearly three stages of +Strasbourg. It consists in having rather low or flat roofs, in the Italian +manner, with all the beams projecting _outside_ of the walls: which gives +it a very unfinished and barbarous look. And here too I began to be more +and more surprised at the meagreness of the population of the _country_. +Even on quitting Epernay, I had noticed it to my companion. The human +beings you see, are chiefly females--ill-featured, and ill complexioned-- +working hard beneath the rays of a scorching sun. As to that sabbath-attire +of cleanliness, even to smartness among our _own_ country people, it is a +thing very rarely to be seen in the villages of France. At Brillon, we +bought fine cherries, of a countrywoman for two sous the pound. + +_Bar-le Duc_ is the next post-town. It is a place of considerable extent +and population: and is divided into the upper and lower town. The approach +to it, along hilly passes, covered with vineyards, is pleasant enough. The +driver wished to take us to the upper town--to see the church of St. Peter, +wherein is contained "a skeleton perforated with worm-holes, which was the +admiration of the best connoisseurs." We civilly declined such a sight, but +had no objection to visit the church. It was a Saint's day: and the +interior of the church was crowded to excess by women and lads. An old +priest was giving his admonition from the high altar, with great propriety +and effect: but we could not stay 'till the conclusion of the service. The +carriage was at the door; and, reascending, we drove to the lower town, +down a somewhat fearful descent, to change horses. It was impossible to +avoid noticing the prodigious quantity of fruit--especially of currants and +strawberries. _Ligny_ was our next halting place, to change horses. The +route thither was sufficiently pleasant. You leave the town through rather +a consequential gateway, of chaste Tuscan architecture, and commence +ascending a lofty hill. From hence you observe, to the left, an old castle +in the outskirts of the town. The road is here broad and grand: and +although a very lively breeze was playing in our faces, yet we were not +insensible to the increasing heat of the day. We dined at _St. Aubin_. A +hearty good-humoured landlady placed before us a very comfortable meal, +with a bottle of rather highly-flavoured vin ordinaire. The inn was little +better than a common ale house in England: but every thing was "très +propre." On leaving, we seemed to be approaching high hills, through flat +meadows--where very poor cattle were feeding. A pretty drive towards _Void_ +and _Laye_, the next post-towns: but it was still prettier on approaching +_Toul_, of which the church, at a distance, had rather a cathedral-like +appearance. We drank tea at Toul--but first proceeded to the church, which +we found to be greatly superior to that of Meaux. Its interior is indeed, +in parts, very elegant: and one lancet-shaped window, in particular, of +stained glass, may even vie with much of what the cathedral of this place +affords. + +At Toul, for the first time since quitting Paris, we were asked for our +passports; it being a fortified town. Our next stage was _Dommartin_; +behind which appeared to be a fine hilly country, now purpled by the rays +of a declining sun. The church of Toul, in our rear, assumed a more +picturesque appearance than before. At _Velaine_, the following post-town, +we had a pair of fine mettlesome Prussian horses harnessed to our voiture, +and started at a full swing trot--through the forest of Hayes, about a +French league in length. The shade and coolness of this drive, as the sun +was getting low, were quite refreshing. The very postilion seemed to enjoy +it, and awakened the echoes of each avenue by the unintermitting sounds of +numberless flourishes of his whip. "How tranquil and how grand!" would he +occasionally exclaim. On clearing the forest, we obtained the first glimpse +of something like a distant mountainous country: which led us to conclude +that we were beginning to approach the VOSGES--or the great chain of +mountains, which, running almost due north and south, separates France from +ALSACE. Below, glittered the spires of _Nancy_--as the sun's last rays +rested upon them. A little distance beyond, shot up the two elegant towers +of _St. Nicholas_; but I am getting on a little too fast.... The forest of +Hayes can be scarcely less than a dozen English miles in breadth. I had +never before seen so much wood in France. Yet the want of water is a great +draw-back to the perfection of rural scenery in this country. We had hardly +observed one rivulet since we had quitted the little glimmering stream at +Chateau-Thierry. + +We now gained fast upon NANCY, the capital of Lorraine. It is doubtless +among the handsomest provincial towns in Europe; and is chiefly indebted +for its magnificence to Stanislaus, King of Poland, who spent the latter +part of his life there, and whose daughter was married to Louis XV. The +annexation of Lorraine to France has been considered the masterpiece of +Louis's policy. Nancy may well boast of her broad and long streets: running +chiefly at right angles with each other: well paved, and tolerably clean. +The houses are built chiefly of stone. Here are churches, a theatre, a +college, a public library--palace-like buildings--public gardens-- +hospitals, coffee houses, and barracks. In short, Nancy is another Caen; +but more magnificent, although less fruitful in antiquities. The _Place de +la Liberté_ et _d'alliance_ et _de la Carriére_ may vie with the public +buildings of Bath; but some of the sculptured ornaments of the _former_, +exhibit miserable proofs of the fury of the Revolutionists. Indeed Nancy +was particularly distinguished by a visit of the Marseillois gentry, who +chose to leave behind pretty strong proofs of their detestation of what was +at once elegant and harmless. The headless busts of men and women, round +the house of the governor, yet prove the excesses of the mob; and the +destruction of two places of worship was the close of their devastating +labours. + +Nancy is divided into the _Old_ and the _New Town_. The four principal +streets, dividing the latter nearly at right angles, are terminated by +handsome arches, in the character of _gateways_. They have a noble +appearance. + +On the first evening of our arrival at Nancy, we walked, after a late cup +of tea, into the public garden--at the extremity of the town. It was broad +moon light; and the appearance of the _Caffés_, and several _Places_, had +quite a new and imposing effect; they being somewhat after the Parisian +fashion. After a day of dust, heat, and rapid motion, a seat upon one of +the stone-benches of the garden--surrounded by dark green trees, of which +the tops were tipt with silver by the moon beam--could not fail to refresh +and delight me: especially as the tranquillity of the place was only +disturbed by the sounds of two or three groups of _bourgeoises_, strolling +arm in arm, and singing what seemed to be a popular, national air--of which +the tune was somewhat psalm-like. The broad walks abounded with bowers, and +open seats; and the general effect was at once singular and pleasing. The +Hotel-Royal is an excellent inn; and the owners of it are very civil +people. + +My first visits were paid to churches and to bookseller's shops. Of +churches, the _Cathedral_ is necessarily the principal. It is large, lofty, +and of an elegant construction, of the Grecian order: finished during the +time of Stanislaus. The ornamental parts are too flaunting; too profuse, +and in bad taste. This excess of decoration pervades also the house of the +Governor; which, were it not so, might vie with that of Lord Burlington; +which it is not unlike in its general appearance. In the Cathedral, the +monument of Stanislaus, by Girardon, is _considered_ to be a chef-d'ouvre. +There was a Girardet--chief painter to Stanislaus, who is here called "the +rival of Apelles:" a rival with a vengeance! From thence I went to an old +church--perhaps of the thirteenth, but certainly of the fourteenth century. +They call it, I think, _St. Epreuve._ In this church I was much struck with +a curious old painting, executed in distemper, upon the walls of a side +aisle, which seemed to be at least three hundred years old. It displayed +the perils and afflictions of various Saints, on various emergencies, and +how they were all eventually saved by the interposition of the Virgin. A +fine swaggering figure, in the foreground, dressed out in black and +yellow-striped hose, much delighted me. Parts of this curious old picture +were worth copying. Near to this curiosity seemed to be a fine, genuine +painting, by Vandyke, of the Virgin and Child--the first exhibition of the +kind which I had seen since leaving Paris. It formed a singular contrast to +the picture before described. On quitting this old church, I could not help +smiling to observe a bunch of flowers, in an old mustard pot--on which was +inscribed "_Moutarde Fine de Nageon, à Dijon_--" placed at the feet of a +statue of the Virgin as a sacred deposit! + +On leaving the church, I visited two booksellers: one of them rather +distinguished for his collection of _Alduses_--as I was informed. I found +him very chatty, very civil, but not very reasonable in his prices. He told +me that he had plenty of old books--_Alduses_ and _Elzevirs, &c_.--with +lapping-over vellum-bindings. I desired nothing better; and followed him up +stairs. Drawer after drawer was pulled out. These M. Renouard had seen: +those the Comte d'Ourches had wished to purchase; and a third pile was +destined for some nobleman in the neighbourhood. There was absolutely +nothing in the shape of temptation--except a _Greek Herodian_, by Theodore +Martin of Louvain, and a droll and rather rare little duodecimo volume, +printed at Amsterdam in 1658, entitled _La Comédie de Proverbes_. The next +bookseller I visited, was a printer. "Had he any thing old and curious?" He +replied, with a sort of triumphant chuckle, that he "once had _such_ a +treasure of this kind!" "What might it have been?" "A superb missal--for +which a goldsmith had offered him twelve sous for each initial letter upon +a gold ground--but which he had parted with, for 100 francs, to the library +of a Benedictin monastery--now destroyed. It had cost him twelve sous." +"But see, Sir, (continued he) is not this curious?" "It is a mere reprint, +(replied I) of what was first published three hundred years ago." "No +matter--buy it, and read it--it will amuse you--and it costs only five +sous." I purchased two copies, and I send you here the title and the +frontispiece. "_Le Dragon Rouge, ou l'art de commander les Esprits +Célestes, Aériens, Terrestres, Infernaux. Avec le vrai Secret de faire +parler les Morts; de gagner toutes les fois qu'on met aux Lotteries; de +découvrir les Trésors," &c_. + +[Illustration] + +The bookseller told me that he regularly sold hundreds of copies of this +work, and that the country people yet believed in the efficacy of its +contents! I had been told that it was in this very town that a copy of _the +Mazarine Bible_ had been picked up for some _half_ _dozen francs!_--and +conveyed to the public library at Munich. + +Towards the evening, I visited the public library by appointment. Indeed I +had casually met the public librarian at the first Bouquiniste's: and he +fixed the hour of half-past six. I was punctual almost to the minute; and +on entering the library, found a sort of BODLEY in miniature: except that +there was a great mass of books in the middle of the room--placed in a +parallelogram form--which I thought must have a prodigiously heavy pressure +upon the floor. I quickly began to look about for _Editiones Principes_; +but, at starting, my guide placed before me two copies of the celebrated +_Liber Nanceidos_:[200] of which _one_ might be fairly said to be _large +paper_. On continuing my examination, I found civil and canon law-- +pandects, glosses, decretals, and commentaries--out of number: together +with no small sprinkling of medical works. Among the latter was a curious, +and _Mentelin_-like looking, edition of _Avicenna_. But _Ludolphus's Life +of Christ_, in Latin, printed in the smallest type of _Eggesteyn_, in 1474, +a folio, was a volume really worth opening and worth coveting. It was in +its original monastic binding--large, white, unsullied, and abounding with +rough marginal edges. + +It is supposed that the library contains 25,000 volumes. Attached to it is +a Museum of Natural History. But alas! since the revolution it exhibits a +frightful picture of decay, devastation, and confusion. To my eye, it was +little better than the apothecary's shop described by Romeo. It contained a +number of portraits in oil, of eminent Naturalists; which are palpable +copies, by the same hand, of originals ... that have probably perished. The +museum had been gutted of almost every thing that was curious or precious. +Indeed they want funds, both for the museum and the library. It was near +night-fall when I quitted the library, and walked with the librarian in a +pleasant, open space, near one of the chief gates or entrances before +mentioned. The evening was uncommonly sweet and serene: and the moon, now +nearly full, rose with more than her usual lustre ... in a sky of the +deepest blue which I had yet witnessed. I shall not readily forget the +conversation of that walk. My companion spoke of his own country with the +sincerity of a patriot, but with the good sense of an honest, observing, +reflecting man. I had never listened to observations better founded, or +which seemed calculated to produce more beneficial results. Of _our_ +country, he spoke with an animation approaching to rapture. It is only the +exercise of a grateful feeling to record this--of a man--whose name I have +forgotten, and whose person I may never see again. On quitting each other, +I proceeded somewhat thoughtfully, to an avenue of shady trees, where +groups of men and women were sitting or strolling--beneath the broad moon +beam--and chanting the popular airs of their country. + +The next morning I quitted Nancy. The first place of halting was _St. +Nicholas_--of which the elegant towers had struck us on the other side of +Nancy. It was no post town: but we could not pass such an ecclesiastical +edifice without examining it with attention. The village itself is most +miserable; yet it could once boast of a _press_ which gave birth to the +_Liber Nanceidos_.[201] The space before the west front of the church is +absolutely choked by houses of the most squalid appearance--so that there +is hardly getting a good general view of the towers. The interior struck us +as exceedingly interesting. There are handsome transepts; in one of which +is a large, circular, central pillar; in the other, an equally large one, +but twisted. One is astonished at finding such a large and beautiful +building in such a situation; but formerly the place might have been large +and flourishing. The west front of this church may rival two-thirds of +similar edifices in France. + +_Domballe_ was the next post: the drive thither being somewhat picturesque. +_Luneville_ is the immediately following post town. It is a large and +considerable place; looking however more picturesque at a distance than on +its near approach: owing to the red tiles of which the roofs are composed. +Here are handsome public buildings; a fountain, with eight jets d'eau-- +barracks, a theatre, and the castle of Prince Charles, of Lorraine. A good +deal of business is carried on in the earthenware and cotton trade--of both +which there is a manufactory--together with that of porcelaine. This place +is known in modern history from the _Treaty of Luneville_ between the +Austrians and French in 1801. From hence we went to _Bénaménil_, the next +stage; and in our way thither, we saw, for the first time since leaving +Paris, a _flock of geese!_ Dined at _Blamont_--the succeeding post town. +While our cutlets were preparing we strolled to the old castle, now in a +state of dilapidation. It is not spacious, but is a picturesque relic. +Within the exterior walls is a fine kitchen garden. From the top of what +might have been the donjon, we surveyed the surrounding country--at that +moment rendered hazy by an atmosphere of dense, heated, vapour. Indeed it +was uncommonly hot. Upon the whole, both the village and _Castle of +Blamont_ merit at least the leisurely survey of an entire day. + +On starting for _Héming_, the next post, we were much pleased by the sight +of a rich, verdant valley, fertilized by a meandering rivulet. The village +of _Richeval_ had particular attractions; and the sight of alternate woods +and meadows seemed to mitigate the severity of the heat of the day. At +Héming we changed horses, opposite a large fountain where cattle were +coming to drink. The effect was very picturesque; but there was no time for +the pencil of Mr. Lewis to be exercised. In less than five minutes we were +off for _Sarrebourg_. Evening came on as we approached it. Here I saw +_hops_ growing, for the first time; and here, for the first time, I heard +the _German language_ spoken--and observed much of the German character in +the countenances of the inhabitants. The postilion was a German, and could +not speak one word of French. However, he knew the art of driving--for we +seemed to fly like the wind towards _Hommarting_--which we reached in half +an hour. It was just two leagues from Sarrebourg. We stopped to change +horses close to what seemed to be a farm house; and as the animals were +being "yoked to the car," for another German Phaeton, I walked into a very +large room, which appeared to be a kitchen. Two long tables were covered +with supper; at each of which sat--as closely wedged as well could be--a +great number of work-people of both sexes, and of all ages. Huge dogs were +moving backwards and forwards, in the hope of receiving some charitable +morsel;, and before the fire, on a littered hearth, lay stretched out two +tremendous mastiffs. I walked with fear and trembling. The cooks were +carrying the evening meal; and the whole place afforded such an +_interior_--as Jan Steen would have viewed with rapture, and Wilkie have +been delighted to copy. Meanwhile the postilion's whip was sounded: the +fresh horses were neighing: and I was told that every thing was ready. I +mounted with alacrity. It was getting dark; and I requested the good people +of the house to tell the postilion that I did not wish him to _sleep_ upon +the road. + +The hint was sufficient. This second German postilion seemed to have taken +a leaf out of the book of his predecessor: for we exchanged a sharp trot +for a full swing canter--terminating in a gallop; and found ourselves +unexpectedly before the gates of _Phalsbourg_. Did you ever, my dear +friend, approach a fortified town by the doubtful light of a clouded moon, +towards eleven of the clock? A mysterious gloom envelopes every thing. The +drawbridge is up. The solitary centinel gives the pass-word upon the +ramparts; and every footstep, however slight, has its particular echo. +Judge then of the noise made by our heavy-hoofed coursers, as we neared the +drawbridge. "What want you there?" said a thundering voice, in the French +language, from within. "A night's lodging," replied I. "We are English +travellers, bound for Strasbourg." "You must wait till I speak with the +sub-mayor." "Be it so." We waited patiently; but heard a great deal of +parleying within the gates. I began to think we should be doomed to retrace +our course--when, after a delay of full twenty minutes, we heard ... to our +extreme satisfaction ... the creaking of the hinges (but not as "harsh +thunder") of the ponderous portals--which opened slowly and stubbornly--and +which was succeeded by the clanking of the huge chain, and the letting down +of the drawbridge. This latter rebounded slightly as it reached its level: +and I think I hear, at this moment, the hollow rumbling noise of our +horses' feet, as we passed over the deep yawning fosse below. Our passports +were now demanded. We surrendered them willingly, on the assurance given of +receiving them the following morning. The gates were now closed behind us, +and we entered the town in high glee. "You are a good fellow," said I to +the gatesman: come to me at the inn, to-morrow morning, and you shall be +thanked in the way you like best." + +The landlord of the inn was not yet a-bed. As he heard our approach, he +called all his myrmidons about him--and bade us heartily welcome. He was a +good-looking, sleek, jolly-faced man: civilly spoken, with a ready +utterance, which seemed prepared to touch upon all kinds of topics. After I +had bespoken tea and beds, and as the boiling water was getting ready, he +began after the following fashion: "Hé bien Mons. Le Comte ... comment vont +les affaires en Angleterre? Et votre grand capitaine, le DUC DE VELLINGTON, +comment se porte il? Ma foi, à ce moment, il joue un beau rôle." I answered +that "matters were going on very well in England, and that our great +Captain was in perfectly good health." "Vous le connoissez parfaitement +bien, sans doute?"--was his next remark. I told him I could not boast of +that honour. "Neanmoins, (added he) il est connu par-tout." I readily +admitted the truth of this observation. Our dialogue concluded by an +assurance on his part, that we should find our beds excellent, our +breakfast on the morrow delicious--and he would order such a pair of horses +(although he strongly recommended _four_,) to be put to our carriage, as +should set all competition at defiance. + +His prediction was verified in every particular. The beds were excellent; +the breakfast, consisting of coffee, eggs, fruit, and bread and butter, +(very superior to what is usually obtained in France) was delicious; and +the horses appeared to be perfect of their kind. The reckoning was, to be +sure, a little severe: but I considered this as the payment or punishment +of having received the title of _Count_ ... without contradiction. It fell +on my ears as mere words of course; but it shall not deceive me a second +time. We started a little time after nine; and on leaving the place I felt +more than usual anxiety and curiosity to catch the first glimpse of the top +of _Strasbourg Cathedral_,--a building, of which I had so long cherished +even the most extravagant notions. The next post town was _Saverne_; and +our route thither was in every respect the most delightful and gratifying +of any, and even of all the routes, collectively, which we had yet +experienced. As you approach it, you cross over a part of the famous chain +of mountains which divide OLD FRANCE from Germany, and which we thought we +had seen from the high ground on the other side of Nancy. The country so +divided, was, and is yet, called ALSACE: and the mountains, just mentioned, +are called the _Vosges_. They run almost due north and south: and form a +commanding feature of the landscape in every point of view. But for +Saverne. It lies, with its fine old castle, at the foot of the pass of +these mountains; but the descent to it--is glorious beyond all +anticipation! + +It has been comparatively only of late years that this road, or pass, has +been completed. In former times, it was almost impassable. As the descent +is rapid and very considerable, the danger attending it is obviated by the +high road having been cut into a cork-screw-shape;[202] which presents, at +every spiral turn (if I may so speak) something new, beautiful, and +interesting. You continue, descending, gazing on all sides. To the right, +suspended almost in the air--over a beetling, perpendicular, rocky cliff-- +feathered half way up with nut and beech--stands, or rather nods, an old +castle in ruins. It seems to shake with every breeze that blows: but there +it stands--and has stood--for some four centuries: once the terror of the +vassal, and now ... the admiration of the traveller! The castle was, to my +eye, of all castles which I had seen, the most elevated in its situation, +and the most difficult of access. The clouds of heaven seemed to be resting +upon its battlements. But what do I see yonder? "Is it the top of the spire +of Strasbourg Cathedral?" "It _is,_ Sir," replied the postilion. I pulled +off my travelling cap, by way of doing homage; and as I looked at my watch, +to know the precise time, found it was just ten o'clock. It was worth +making a minute of. Yet, owing to the hills before--or rather to those +beyond, on the other side of the Rhine, which are very much loftier--the +first impression gives no idea of the extraordinary height of the spire. We +continued to descend, slowly and cautiously, with _Saverne_ before us in +the bottom. To the left, close to the road side, stands an obelisk: on +which is fixed, hi gilt letters, this emphatic inscription: + +_ALSATIA._ + +Every thing, on reaching the level road, bespoke a distinct national +character. It was clear that we had forsaken French costume, as well as the +French language, among the common people: so obvious is it, as has been +remarked to me by a Strasbourgeois, that "mountains, and not rivers, are +the natural boundaries of countries." The women wore large, flat, straw +hats, with a small rose at the bottom of a shallow crown; while their +throats were covered, sometimes up to the mouth, with black, silk cravats. +Their hair was platted, hanging down in two equal divisions. The face +appeared to be flat. The men wore shovel hats, of which the front part +projected to a considerable distance; and the perpetually recurring +response of "_yaw yaw_"--left it beyond all doubt that we had taken leave +of the language of "the polite nation." At length we reached Saverne, and +changed horses. This town is large and bustling, and is said to contain +upwards of four thousand inhabitants. We did not stop to examine any of its +wonders or its beauties; for we were becoming impatient for Strasbourg. The +next two intermediate post towns were _Wasselonne_ and _Ittenheim_--and +thence to Strasbourg: the three posts united being about ten leagues. From +Ittenheim we darted along yet more swiftly than before. The postilion, +speaking in a germanised French accent, told us, that "we were about to +visit one of the most famous cities in the world--and _such_ a CATHEDRAL!" +The immediate approach to Strasbourg is flat and uninteresting; nor could +I, in every possible view of the tower of the cathedral, bring myself to +suppose it--what it is admitted to be--the _loftiest ecclesiastical edifice +in the world_! + +The fortifications about Strasbourg are said to afford one of the finest +specimens of the skill of Vauban. They may do so; but they are very flat, +tame, and unpicturesque. We now neared the barriers: delivered our +passports; and darted under the first large brick arched way. A devious +paved route brought us to the second gate;--and thus we entered the town; +desiring the post-boy to drive to the _Hôtel de l'Esprit_. "You judge +wisely, Sir, (replied he) for there is no Hotel, either in France or +Germany, like it." So saying, he continued, without the least intermission, +to make circular flourishes with his whip--accompanied by such ear-piercing +sounds, as caused every inhabitant to gaze at us. I entreated him to +desist; but in vain. "The English always enter in this manner," said he-- +and having reached the hotel, he gave _one_ super-eminent flourish--which +threw him off his balance, and nearly brought him to the ground. When I +paid him, he pleaded hard for an _extra five sous_ for this concluding +flourish! + +I am now therefore safely and comfortably lodged in this spacious hotel, by +the side of the river _Ill_--of which it is pleasing to catch the lingering +breezes as they stray into my chamber. God bless you. + + * * * * * + +P.S. One thing I cannot help adding--perhaps hardly deserving of a +postscript. All the way from Paris to Strasbourg, I am persuaded that we +did not meet _six_ travelling equipages. The lumbering diligence and steady +Poste Royale were almost the only vehicles in action besides our own. Nor +were _villas_ or _chateaux_ visible; such as, in our own country, enliven +the scene and put the traveller in spirits. + + +[200] A folio volume, printed at St. Nicolas, a neighbouring village, in + 1518. It is a poem, written in Latin hexameter verse by P. Blaru [P. + de Blarrovivo]--descriptive of the memorable siege of Nancy in 1476, + by CHARLES THE RASH, Duke of Burgundy: who perished before the walls. + His death is described in the sixth book, _sign_. t. iiij: the + passage relating to it, beginning + + "Est in Nanceijs aratro locus utilis aruis:" + + A wood cut portrait of the commanding French general, Renet, is in the + frontispiece. A good copy of this interesting work should always grace + the shelves of an historical collector. Brunet notices a copy of it + UPON VELLUM, in some monastic library in Lorraine. [Three days have + not elapsed, since I saw a similar copy in the possession of Messrs. + Payne and Foss, destined for the Royal Library at Paris. A pretty, + rather than a magnificent, book.] + +[201] See page 362. + +[202] When this 'chaussée,' or route royale, was completed, it was so + admired, that the ladies imitated its cork-screw shape, by pearls + arranged spirally in their hair; and this head dress was called + _Coiffure à la Saverne_. + + + + +_LETTER XIII._ + +STRASBOURG. ESTABLISHMENT OF THE PROTESTANT RELIGION. THE CATHEDRAL. THE +PUBLIC LIBRARY. + + +_Hôtel de l'Esprit, July 26, 1818_. + +MY DEAR FRIEND; + +It is Sunday; and scarcely half an hour ago, I heard, from a Lutheran +church on the other side of the water, what I call good, hearty, rational +psalm-singing: without fiddles or trombones or serpents. Thus, although +considerably further from home, I almost fancied myself in old England. +This letter will touch chiefly upon topics of an antiquarian cast, but of +which I venture to anticipate your approbation; because I have long known +your attachment to the history of ALSACE--and that you have Schoepflin's +admirable work[203] upon that country almost at your finger's ends. The +city of Strasbourg encloses within its walls a population of about fifty +thousand souls. I suspect, however, that in former times its population was +more numerous. At this present moment there are about two hundred-and fifty +streets, great and small; including squares and alleys. The main streets, +upon the whole, are neither wide nor narrow; but to a stranger they have a +very singular appearance, from the windows being occasionally covered, on +the outside, with _iron bars_, arranged after divers fashions. This gives +them a very prison-like effect, and is far from being ornamental. The +glazing of the windows is also frequently very curious. In general, the +panes of glass are small, and circular, confined in leaden casements. The +number of houses in Strasbourg is estimated at three thousand five hundred. + +There are not fewer than forty-seven bridges in the interior of the town. +These cross the branches of the rivers _Ill_ and _Bruche_--which empty +themselves into the _Rhine_. The fortifications of Strasbourg are equally +strong and extensive; but they assumed formerly a more picturesque, if not +a more powerful aspect.[204] + +There are _seven parishes_; of which four are catholic, and three +protestant. This brings me to lay before you a brief outline of the rise +and progress of PROTESTANTISM in this place. Yet, as a preliminary remark, +and as connected with our mutual antiquarian pursuits, you are to know +that, besides parish churches, there were formerly _fourteen convents_, +exclusively of chapelries. All these are minutely detailed in the recent +work of M. Hermann,[205] from which indeed I have gleaned the chief of the +foregoing particulars. A great many of these convents were suppressed in +the sixteenth century, upon the establishment of the protestant religion. + +But for a brief outline of the rise and progress of this establishment. It +must indeed be brief; but if so, it shall at least be clear and faithful. +The forerunner of Luther (in my opinion) was JOHN GEYLER; a man of singular +intrepidity of head and heart. He was a very extraordinary genius, +unquestionably; and the works which he has bequeathed to posterity evince +the variety of his attainments. Geyler preached boldly in the cathedral +against the lax manners and doubtful morality of the clergy. He exhorted +the magistrates to do their duty, and predicted that there must be an +alteration of religious worship ere the general morals of the community +could be amended. They preserve a stone chair or pulpit, of very curious +workmanship, but which had nearly been destroyed during the Revolution, in +which Geyler used to deliver his lectures. He died in 1510; and within a +dozen years after his death the doctrines of LUTHER, were sedulously +inculcated. The ground had been well prepared for such seed. The court of +Rome looked on with uneasiness; and the Pope sent a legate to Strasbourg in +1522, to vent his anathemas, and to raise a strong party against the growth +of this new heresy--as it was called. At this time, the reformed doctrine +was even taught in the cathedral; and, a more remarkable thing to strike +the common people, the RECTOR of the church of St. Thomas (the second +religious establishment of importance, after that of the cathedral) +VENTURED TO MARRY! He was applauded both by the common people and by many +of the more respectable families. His example was followed: and the +religious of both sexes were allowed to leave their establishments, to go +where they would, and to enter upon the married state. In 1530 the mass was +generally abolished: and the protestant religion was constantly exercised +in the cathedral. + +The spirit both of Geyler and of Luther might have rejoiced to find, in +1550, the chapter of St. Thomas resolutely avowing its determination to +perform the protestant--and nothing but the protestant--religion within its +own extensive establishment. The flame of the new religion seemed now to +have reached all quarters, and warmed all hearts. But a temporary check to +its progress was given by the cautious policy of Charles V. That wary and +heartless monarch (who had even less religion than he had of the ordinary +feelings of humanity) interfered with the weight of his power, and the +denunciations of his vengeance. Yet he found it necessary neither wholly to +suppress, nor wholly to check, the progress of the protestant religion: +while, on the other hand, the Strasbourgeois dreaded too much the effects +of his power to dispute his will by any compact or alliance of opposition. +In 1550, therefore, the matter stood thus. The cathedral, and the +collegiate and parish churches of St. Peter the Elder and St. Peter the +Younger, as well as the Oratory of all Saints, adopted the _catholic_ form +of worship. The other parish churches adopted that of the _protestant_. Yet +in 1559 there happened such a serious affray in the cathedral church +itself--between the Catholics and Protestants--as taught the former the +obvious necessity of conceding as much as possible to the latter. It +followed, that, towards the end of the same century, there were, in the +cathedral chapter, _seventeen protestant_, and _eight catholic_ canons. +Among the _latter_, however, was the celebrated Cardinal de Lorraine:--one +of the most powerful, the most furious, and the most implacable of the +enemies of Protestantism. The part he took in the massacre of St. +Bartholomew's day, consigns his name to everlasting ignominy and +detestation. + +In 1610 a league was formed for the adjustment of the differences between +the Catholics and Protestants: but the unfortunate thirty years war +breaking out in 1618, and desolating nearly the whole of Germany, prevented +the permanent consolidation of the interests of either party. All this time +Strasbourg was under the power, as it even now speaks the language, and +partakes of the customs and manners, of GERMANY: but its very situation +rendered it the prey of both the contending powers of Germany and France. +At length came the memorable, and as I suspect treacherous, surrender of +Strasbourg to the arms of Louis XIV, in September 1681; when the respective +rights and privileges of the Catholics and Protestants were placed upon a +definite footing: although, before this event, the latter had considerably +the ascendancy. These rights were endeavoured to be shaken by the +revocation of the edict of Nantes in 1685--not however before the Jesuits +had been striving to warp the feelings of the latter in favour of the +former. The catholic religion was, by the articles of the surrender of the +city, established in the cathedral, in the subordinate churches of St. +Peter the Elder and St. Peter the Younger, and in the Oratory of All +Saints: and it has continued to be exercised pretty much in the same +proportion unto this day. The majority of the inhabitants are however +decidedly Protestants. Such is a succinct, but I believe not unfaithful, +account of the establishment of the PROTESTANT RELIGION at Strasbourg. + +This subject therefore naturally brings me to notice the principal _Temple +of Worship_ in which the rites of either religion seem, for a long time, to +have been alternately exercised; and this temple can be no other than _the +Minster_--or, as we should say, the _Cathedral._ Ere I assume the office of +the historian, let me gratify my inclinations as a spectator. Let me walk +round this stupendous structure. At this moment, therefore, consider me as +standing in full gaze before its west front--from which the tower springs. +This tower seems to reach to heaven. Indeed the whole front quite +overwhelms you with alternate emotions of wonder and delight. Luckily there +is some little space before it, in which trees have been recently planted; +and where (as I understand) the fruit and vegetable market is held. At the +further end of this space in approaching the Cathedral, and in running the +eye over the whole front, the first thing that strikes you is, the red or +copperas colour of the stone--which I presume to be a species of sand +stone. This gives a sort of severe metallic effect. However you are riveted +to the spot wherein you command the first general survey of this +unparalleled front. The delicacy, the finish, the harmonious intricacy, and +faery-like lightness, of the whole--even to the summit of the spire;--which +latter indeed has the appearance of filigree work, raised by enchantment, +and through the interstices of which the bright blue sky appears with a +lustre of which you have no conception in England--all this, I say, +perfectly delights and overwhelms you. You want words to express your +ideas, and the extent of your gratification. You feel convinced that the +magnificent edifice before you seems to be the _ne plus ultra_ of human +skill in ornamental gothic architecture. Undoubtedly one regrets here, as +at Antwerp, the absence of a corresponding tower; but you are to form your +judgment upon what is _actually_ before you, and, at the same time, to bear +in mind that this tower and spire--for it partakes of both characters--is +full _four hundred and seventy four_ English feet in height![206]--and, +consequently, some twenty or thirty feet only lower than the top of St. +Peter's at Rome. One is lost in astonishment, on bearing such an altitude +in mind, considering the delicacy of the spire. There is no place fitting +for a satisfactory view of it, within its immediate vicinity.[207] + +This western front, or facade, is divided into three stages or +compartments. The bottom or lower one is occupied by three magnificent +porches; of which the central is by far the loftiest and most ornamental. +The period of their execution is from the year 1270 to 1320: a period, when +gothic architecture was probably at its highest pitch of perfection. The +central porch is divided into five compartments on each side--forming an +angle of about forty-five degrees with the door-way. The lower parts of +these divisions contain each a statue, of the size of life, upon its +respective pediment. The upper parts, which blend with the arch-like +construction, are filled with small statues, upon pediments, having a sort +of brilliant, fretted appearance. All these figures are representations of +characters in Scripture. Again, above this archway, forming the central +ornaments of the sharper angles, are the figures of the Almighty, the +Virgin and Child, and Solomon. In front, above the door way, upon a flat +surface, are four sculptured compartments; devoted to scriptural subjects. +The same may be said of the right and left porch. They are equally +elaborate, and equally devoted to representations of scriptural subjects. +They will have it, that, according to tradition, the daughter of Ervin de +Steinbach, the chief architect of the western front, worked a great deal at +this central porch, and even sculptured several of the figures. However +this may be, the _tout ensemble_ is really beyond any thing which could be +satisfactorily conveyed by a written description. + +We now cast our eye upon the second division of this stupendous facade; and +here our attention is almost exclusively devoted to the enormous circular +or marygold window, in the central compartment. It is filled with stained +glass--and you are to know that the circumference of the outer circle is +one hundred and sixty-English feet: or about fifty-three feet in diameter; +and I challenge you to shew me the like--in any building of which you have +any knowledge! + +Perhaps the most wonderful part of this structure is the open filigree work +of the tower, immediately above the platform: though I admit that the +_spiral_ part is exceedingly curious and elaborate. Of course there was no +examining such a wonder without mounting to the platform, and ascending the +tower itself. The platform is about three hundred feet from the pavement. +We quitted this tenement, and walked straight forward upon the platform. +What a prospect was before us. There flowed the RHINE! I felt an +indescribable joy on my first view of that majestic river. There it +flowed ... broad and rapid ... and apparently peaceful, within its low +banks. On the other, or eastern side of it, was a range of lofty hills, +of a mountainous character. On the opposite side of the town ran the great +chain of hills--called the VOSGES--which we had crossed in our route +hither; and of which we had now a most extensive and unobstructed view. +These hills were once the abode of adventurous chieftains and powerful +nobles; and there was scarcely an eminence but what had been formerly +crowned by a baronial castle.[208] Below, appeared the houses of +Strasbourg ... shrunk to rabbit-hutches--and the people ... to emmets! + +It remained to ascend the opposite tower. At each of the four corners there +is a spiral stair-case, of which the exterior is open work, consisting of +slender but lofty pillars; so that the ascending figure is seen at every +convolution. It has a fearful appearance to the adventurer: but there is +scarcely the possibility of danger. You go round and round, and observe +three distinct terminations of the central work within--forming three +roofs--of which, the _third_ is eminently beautiful. I could not help +expressing my astonishment at some of the exterior columns, which could not +be much less than threescore feet in height, and scarcely twelve inches in +diameter! Having gained the top of one of these corner spiral stair-cases, +I breathed and looked around me. A new feature presented itself to my view. +About one hundred feet beneath, was the body of this huge cathedral. +Immediately above, rose the beautifully-tapering and curiously ornamented +SPIRE--to the height of probably, one hundred and twenty-five feet! It +seemed indeed as if both tower and spire were direct ladders to the sky. +The immortal artist who constructed them, and who lived to witness the +completion of his structure, was JOAN HÜLTZ, a native of Cologne. The date +of their completion is 1449. Thus, on the continent as well as in England, +the period of the most florid style of gothic architecture was during the +first half of the fifteenth century. + +I essayed to mount to the very pinnacle; or _bouton_ of the spire; but the +ascent was impracticable--owing to the stair-case being under repair. On +the summit of this spire, there once stood a _statue of the Virgin,_ above +a cross. That statue was taken down at the end of the fifteenth century, +and is now placed over the south porch. But, what do you think supplied its +place during the late Revolution, or in the year of our Lord 1794, on the +4th day of May? Truly, nothing less than a large cap, made of tin, and +painted red--called the _Cap of Liberty!_ Thank heaven, this latter was +pulled down in due time--and an oblong diamond-shaped stone is now the +finishing piece of masonry of this wonderful building. In descending, I +stopped again at the platform, and was requested to see the GREAT BELL; of +which I had heard the deep-mouthed roar half a dozen times a day, since my +arrival. It is perhaps the finest toned bell in Europe, and appeared to me +terrifically large--being nearer eight than seven feet high.[209] They +begin to toll it at four or five o'clock in the summer-mornings, to +announce that the gates of the town are opened. In case of fire at night, +it is very loudly tolled; and during a similar accident in the day time, +they suspend a pole, with a red flag at the end of it, over that part of +the platform which is in a line with the direction of the fire. + +A grand defect in the structure of this Cathedral, as it strikes me, is, +that the nave and transepts do not seem to belong to such a western front. +They sink into perfect insignificance. Nor is the style of their exterior +particularly deserving of description. Yet there is _one_ feature in the +external architecture of this Cathedral--namely, a series or suite of +DROLLERIES ... of about four or five feet high ... which cannot fail to +attract the antiquary's especial notice. These figures are coarsely but +spiritedly cut in stone. They are placed upon the bracket which supports +the galleries, or balcony, of the eastern side of the facade of the tower, +and are about sixty-five English feet from the ground. They extend to +thirty-two feet in length. Through the kind offices of my friend Mr. +Schweighæuser, junior, (of whom by and by) I have obtained drawings of +these droll subjects,[210] and I am sure that, in common with many of our +friends, you will be amused with the sight of a few of them. They are +probably of the date of 1370; + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + +The common people call this series the _Sabbath of Demons,_ or _the Dance +of the Witches_. You are to know, however, that on the opposite side of the +cathedral there is a series of figures, of the same size, and executed +nearly in the same style of art, descriptive of scriptural events, mixed +with allegorical subjects. Having now pointed out what appears to me to be +chiefly interesting in the _exterior_ of this marvellous building, it is +right that I give you some notion of its _interior_: which will however +occupy but a short portion of your attention. Indeed--I grieve to speak +it--both the exterior and interior of the _nave_ are wholly unworthy of +such a magnificent west-front. + +The nave and choir together are about three hundred and fifty-five English +feet in length; of which the nave is two hundred and forty-four--evidently +of too scanty dimensions. The width of the nave and side aisles is one +hundred and thirty-two feet: the height of the nave is only seventy-two +feet. The larger of the nine clustered columns is full seventy-two feet in +circumference; the more delicate, thirty feet. There is really nothing +striking in this nave; except that, on turning round, and looking up to the +painted glass of the circular or marygold window, you observe the colours +of it, which are very rich, and absolutely gay, compared with those of the +other windows. There is a profusion of painted glass in almost all the +windows; but generally of a sombre tint, and of a correspondent gloomy +effect. Indeed, in consequence of this profusion, the cathedral absolutely +wants light. + +The choir is sixty-seven feet wide, without side aisles, and is much lower +than the nave. It is impossible to speak of this choir without indignation. +My good friend--the whole of this interior has recently undergone rather a +martyrdom than a metamorphosis. The sides are almost entirely covered with +_Grecian_ pilasters and pillars; and so are the ornaments about the altar. +What adds to the wretched effect of the whole, is, a coat of _white-wash_, +which was liberally bestowed upon it some forty years ago; and which will +require at least the lapse of another century to subdue its staring effect. +There are only three chapels in this cathedral. Of _altars_ there are not +fewer than twelve: the principal being in the chapels of St. Lawrence and +St. Catharine. + +It was near the chapel of _St. Catharine_, that, on the morning of our +first visit, we witnessed a group of country people, apparently from the +neighbourhood of _Saverne_--from their huge, broad, flat hats--engaged in +devotion before the image of some favourite saint. The rays of a bright sun +darted through the windows, softened by the varied tints of the stained +glass, upon their singular countenances and costumes; and the effect was +irresistibly striking and interesting. + +In the centre of the south transept, there rises a fine, slender, clustered +column, reaching to its very summit. On the exterior of this column--placed +one above another, but retreating or advancing, or in full view, according +to the position of the spectator--are several figures, chiefly females; +probably five feet high, with labels or scrolls, upon each of which is an +inscription. I never saw any thing more elegant and more striking of its +kind. These figures reach a great way up the pillar--probably to the top-- +but at this moment I cannot say decidedly. It is here, too, that the famous +Strasbourg _Clock_, (about which one Dasypodius hath published a Latin +treatise in a slim quarto volume[211]) is placed. This, and the tower, were +called the _two great wonders of Germany_. This clock may be described in +few words: premising, that it was preceded by a clock of very extraordinary +workmanship, fabricated in the middle of the fourteenth century--of which, +the _only_ existing portion is, a _cock_, upon the top of the left +perpendicular ornament, which, upon the hourly chiming of the bells, used +to flap his wings, stretch out his neck, and crow twice; but being struck +by lightning in the year 1640, it lost its power of action and of sending +forth sound. No modern skill has been able to make this cock crow, or to +shake his wings again. The clock however is now wholly out of order, and +should be placed elsewhere. It is very lofty; perhaps twenty feet high: is +divided into three parts, of which the central part represents _Our +Saviour_ and _Death_, in the middle, each in the act as if to strike a +bell. When, in complete order, Death used to come forward to strike the +_quarters_; and, having struck them, was instantly repelled by our Saviour. +When he came forward to strike the _hour_, our Saviour in turn retreated:-- +a whimsical and not very comprehensible arrangement. But old clocks used to +be full of these conceits. + +Upon throwing an eye over what I have just written, I find that I have +omitted to notice the celebrated STONE PULPIT, in the nave, enriched with +small figures--of the latter end of the fifteenth century. In fact, the +date of 1485, in arabic numerals, (if I remember rightly) is at the bottom +of it, to the right of the steps. This pulpit, my good friend, is nothing +less than the very ecclesiastical rostrum from which the famous _John +Geyler_ thundered his anathemas against the monkish clergy. You may +remember that some slight notice was taken of it at the beginning of this +letter, in which the progress of Protestantism at Strasbourg was attempted +to be traced. I will frankly own to you, that, of all pulpits, throughout +Normandy, or in Paris--as yet examined by me--I have seen none which +approaches to THIS; so rich, varied, and elaborate are its sculptured +ornaments.[212] The Revolutionists could only contrive to knock off the +figure which was upon the top of the canopy, with other contiguous +ornaments; all of which might be easily restored. + +[Illustration: STONE PULPIT, STRASBOURG CATHEDRAL.] + +A word now about the great _Organ_. If Strasbourg have been famous for +architects, masons, bell-founders, and clock-makers, it has been not less +so for organ builders. As early as the end of the thirteenth century, there +were several organs in this cathedral: very curious in their structure, and +very sonorous in their notes. The present great organ, on the _left side_ +of the nave, on entering at the western door, was built by Silbermann about +a century-ago: and is placed about fifty feet above the pavement. It has +six bellowses, each bellows being twelve feet long and six wide: but they +are made to act by a very simple and sure process. The tone is tremendous-- +when all the stops are pulled out--as I once heard it, during the +performance of a particularly grand chorus! Yet is this tone mellow and +pleasing at the same time. Notwithstanding the organ could be hardly less +than three hundred feet distant from the musicians in the choir, it sent +forth sounds so powerful and grand--as almost to overwhelm the human voice, +with the accompaniments of trombones and serpents. Perhaps you will not be +astonished at this, when I inform you that it contains not fewer than two +thousand two hundred and forty-two pipes. This is not the first time you +have heard me commend the organs upon the Continent. + +One of the most remarkable features belonging to the history of Strasbourg +cathedral, is, the number of _shocks of earthquakes_ which have affected +the building. It is barely possible to enumerate all these frightful +accidents; and still more difficult to give credence to one third of them. +They seem to have happened two or three times every century; and, latterly, +yet more frequently. Take one recital as a specimen: and believe it--if you +can. In the year 1728, so great was the agitation of the earth, that the +tower was moved one foot out of its perpendicular direction--but recovered +its former position presently. "What however is _quite certain_--(says +Grandidier)--the holy water, contained in a stone reservoir or basin, at +the bottom of a column, near the pavement, was thrown by this same +agitation, to upwards of _half the height of a man_--and to the distance of +_eighteen feet!_ The record of this marvellous transaction is preserved in +a Latin inscription, on a slab of black marble, fastened to the lower part +of the tower, near the platform."[213] In 1744 a severe tempest of thunder +and lightning occasioned some serious injuries to portions of the +cathedral; but in 1759 it suffered still more from a similar cause. Indeed +the havoc among the slighter ornamental parts, including several delicately +carved figures, is recorded to have been dreadful. + +Of the subordinate churches of Strasbourg, the principal, both for size and +antiquity, is that of _St. Thomas_. I visited it several times. The +exterior is one of the most tasteless jumbles of all styles and ages of art +that can be imagined; and a portion of it is covered with brick. But I +question if there be not parts much older than the cathedral. The interior +compensates somewhat for the barbarism of the outside. It is large and +commodious, but sadly altered from its original construction; and has +recently been trimmed up and smartened in the true church-warden style. The +great boast of this church is its MONUMENTS; which, it must be confessed, +are upon the whole exceedingly interesting. As to their antiquity, I +noticed two or three of the thirteenth century; but they pretend to run up +as high as the tenth. Indeed I saw one inscription of the eleventh +century--executed in gothic letters, such as we observe of the latter end +of the sixteenth. This could not be a coeval inscription; for I doubt +whether there exist, any where, a monumental tablet of the eleventh century +executed in _coeval gothic_ letters. The service performed here is after +the confession of Augsbourg; in other words, according to the reformed +Lutheran church. A small crucifix, placed upon an altar between the nave +and the choir, delicately marks this distinction; for Luther, you know, did +not wage an interminable war against crucifixes. + +Of _modern_ monuments, the boast and glory of this church is that of the +famous MARSHAL SAXE; who died at the age of 55, in the year 1755. While I +was looking very intently at it, the good verger gently put a printed +description of it into my hands, on a loose quarto sheet. I trust to be +forgiven if I read only its first sentence:--_Cette grande composition +réunit aux richesse de l'art des Phidias et des Bouchardon, les traits de +la grande poésie._" "Take any shape but this"--thought I to myself--and, +folding it up as gently as it had been delivered to me, I put it into my +pocket. My good friend, I do beseech you to hear me out--when I preface my +remarks by saying, that, of all monuments, _this_ is one of the most +tasteless and uninteresting. Listen to a brief but faithful description of +it. + +An immense pyramidal-shaped gray marble forms the background. Upon such a +back-ground there might have been a group of a _dozen_ figures at least. +However, there happen to be only _four_ of the human species, and three of +animals. These human figures are, the Marshal; a woman weeping lustily--I +had almost said blubbering; (intended to represent France) Hercules; and a +little child--of some order or degree, not less affected than the female. +The animals are, a lion, a leopard, (which latter has a bear-like form) and +an eagle. I will now tell you what they are all doing. Before the Marshal, +is an opened grave; into which this illustrious hero, clad in complete +armour, is about to march with a quiet, measured step--as unconcernedly, as +if he were descending a flight of steps which led to a conservatory. The +woman--that is France--is, in the meantime, weeping aloud; pointing to the +grave, and very persuasively intreating the Marshal to enter--as his mortal +moments have expired. I should add that death--a large formidable-looking +figure, veiled by a piece of drapery, is also at hand: seeming to imply +that hesitation and reluctance, on the part of the hero, are equally +unavailing. Next comes Hercules; who is represented as stationary, +thoughtful, and sorrow-stricken, as France is agitated and in motion. The +lion and leopard (one representing Holland, and the other England-- +intending to convey the idea that the hero had beaten the armies of both +countries) are between the Marshal and Hercules: the leopard is lying upon +his back--in a very frolicksome attitude. The lion is also not less +abstracted from the general grief of the figures. And this large, ugly, +unmeaning composition--they have the temerity to call the union of art by +Phidias and Bouchardon--with the inspiration of sublime poetry! I will make +no comments.[214] It is one of those _felicitous_ efforts which have the +enviable distinction of carrying its own text and commentary. Below this +vast mural monument, is a vault, containing the body of the Marshal. I +descended into it, and found it well ventilated and dry. The coffin is +immediately obvious: it contains the body of the chieftain enclosed in two +cases--of which the first is _silver_, and the second _copper_. The heart +is, I believe, elsewhere. + +Forming a strikingly happy contrast to this huge, unmeaning production--are +the modest and unassuming monuments of _Schoepflin_, _Oberlin_, and _Koch_: +men, of whom Strasbourg has good reason to be proud. Nor let the monument +of old _Sebastian Schmidt_ escape the notice and commendation of the +pensive observer. These were all "fine fellows in their day:" and died, +including the illustrious Marshal, steady in the faith they had espoused-- +that is, in the belief and practice of the tenets of the reformed church. I +have no time for a particular description of these monuments. Schoepflin's +consists of a bronze bust of himself placed in the front of a white marble +urn, between two cinnamon-colour columns, of the Corinthian order--of free +stone. The head is thought to be very like. Oberlin's is in better taste. +You see only his profile, by Ohmacht, in white marble--very striking. The +accompaniments are figures in white marble, of which a muse, in rilievo, is +larger than life. The inscriptions, both for Schoepflin and Oberlin, are +short and simple, and therefore appropriate. The monument of Koch is not +less simple. It consists of his bust--about to be crowned with a fillet of +oaken leaves--by a figure representing the city of Strasbourg. Below the +bust is another figure weeping--and holding beneath its arms, a scroll, +upon which the works of the deceased are enumerated. Koch died in his +seventy-sixth year, in the year 1813. Ohmacht is also the sculptor of +Koch's monument. Upon the whole, I am not sure that I have visited any +church, since the cathedral of Rouen, of which the interior is more +interesting, on the score of monuments, than that of St. Thomas at +Strasbourg. + +I do not know that it is necessary to say any thing about the old churches +of St. Stephen and St. Martin: except that the former is supposed to be the +most ancient. It was built of stone, and said to be placed upon a spot in +which was a Roman fort--the materials of which served for a portion of the +present building. St. Martin's was erected in 1381 upon a much finer plan +than that of _St. Arbogaste_--which is said to have been built in the +middle of the twelfth century. Among the churches, now no longer _wholly_ +appropriated to sacred uses, is that called the _New Temple_--attached to +which is the Public Library. The service in this church is according to the +Protestant persuasion. I say this Church is not _wholly_ devoted to +religious rites: for what was once the _choir_, contains, at bottom, the +BOOKS belonging to the public University; and, at top, those which were +bequeathed to the same establishment by Schoepflin. The general effect-- +both from the pavement below, and the gallery above--is absolutely +transporting. Shall I tell you wherefore? This same ancient choir--now +devoted to _printed tomes_--contains some lancet-shaped windows of _stained +glass_ of the most beautiful and exquisite pattern and colours!... such as +made me wholly forget those at _Toul_, and _almost_ those at _St. Owen_. +Even the stained glass of the cathedral, here, was recollected... only to +suffer by the comparison! It should seem that the artist had worked with +alternate dissolutions of amethyst, topaz, ruby, garnet, and emerald. Look +at the first three windows, to the left on entering, about an hour before +sun-set:--they seem to fill the whole place with a preternatural splendor! +The pattern is somewhat of a Persian description, and I should apprehend +the antiquity of the workmanship to be scarcely exceeding three hundred +years. Yet I must be allowed to say, that these exquisitely sparkling, if +not unrivalled, specimens of stained glass, do not belong to a place now +_wholly_ occupied by _books_. Could they not be placed in the chapel of St. +Lawrence, or of St. Catharine, in the cathedral? + +As I am now at the close of my account of ecclesiastical edifices--and as +this last church happens to be closely connected with a building of a +different description--namely, The PUBLIC LIBRARY--you will allow me to +_colophonise_ my first Strasbourg epistle with some account of the +_contents_ of this library. + +The amiable and excellent younger Schweighæuser, who is head librarian, and +one of the Professors in this Gymnase, was so obliging as to lend me the +key of the library, to which I had access at all hours of the day. The +public hours are from two till four, Sundays excepted. I own that this +accommodation was extremely agreeable and convenient to me. I was under no +restraint, and thus left to my own conscience alone not to abuse the +privilege conceded. That conscience has never given me one "prick" since +the conclusion of my researches.[215] + +My researches were usually carried on above stairs, at the table where the +visitors sat. Of the MSS. I did not deem it worth while to take any +particular account; but there was _one_, so choice, so splendid, so +curious, so interesting, and in such an extraordinary state of +preservation, that you may as well know it is called the famous _Hortus +Deliciarum_ of _Herarde, Abbess of Landsberg_. The subjects are +miscellaneous; and most elaborately represented by illuminations. Battles, +sieges, men tumbling from ladders which reach to the sky--conflagrations, +agriculture--devotion, penitence--revenge, murder,--in short, there is +hardly a passion, animating the human breast, but what is represented here. +The figures in armour have _nasals_, and are in quilted mail: and I think +there can be little doubt but that both the text and the decorations are of +the latter end of the twelfth century. It is so perfect in all its parts, +and so rich of its particular description, that it not only well merits the +labour which has been bestowed upon it by its recent editor Mr. +Engleheardt, but it may probably vie with any similar production in +Europe.[216] + +However, of other MSS. you will I am sure give me credit for having +examined the celebrated _Depositions in the law-suit between Fust and +Gutemberg_--so intimately connected with the history of early printing, and +so copiously treated upon by recent bibliographers.[217] I own that I +inspected these depositions (in the German language) with no ordinary +curiosity. They are doubtless most precious; yet I cannot help suspecting +that the _character_ or letter is _not_ of the time; namely of 1440. It +should rather seem to be of the sixteenth century. Perhaps at the +commencement of it. These documents are written in a small folio volume, in +one uniform hand--a kind of law-gothic--from beginning to end. The volume +has the following title on the exterior; "_Dicta Testium magni consilij +Anno dni m^o. cccc^o. Tricesimo nono_. The paper is strong and thick, and +has a pair of scales for the water-mark. The younger Schweighæuser thinks +my doubts about its age not well founded; conceiving it to be a coeval +document. But this does not affect its authenticity, as it may have been an +accurate and attested copy--of an original which has now perished. +Certainly the whole book has very much the air of a _Copy_: and besides, +would not the originals have been upon separate rolls of parchment?[218] + +I now come to the PRINTED BOOKS: of which, according to the MS. catalogue +by Oberlin, (who was head librarian here) there are not fewer _than four +thousand three hundred, printed before the year 1520_:--and of these, +again, upwards of _eleven hundred without dates_. This, at first hearing, +sounds, what the curious would call, promising; but I must say, that of the +_dated_ and _dateless_ books, printed before the year 1500, which I took +down, and carefully opened--and this number could not be less than four or +five hundred--there was scarcely one in five which repaid the toil of +examination: and this too, with a thermometer frequently standing at +eighty-nine and ninety, in the shade in the open air! Fortunately for my +health, and for the exertion of physical strength, the public library +happened to be very cool--while all the windows were opened, and through +the openings was frequently heard the sound of young voices, practising the +famous _Martin Luther's Hymn_--as it is called. This latter was +particularly grateful to me. I heard the master first sing a stave, and he +was in general accurately followed by his pupils--who displayed the +well-known early tact of Germans in the science of music. But to revert to +the early printed books. + +FIRST GERMAN BIBLE; supposed to have been _printed by Mentelin_; without +date: Folio. Towards the latter half of this copy, there are some +interesting embellishments, in outline, in a bistre tint. The invention and +execution of many of them are admirable. Where they are _coloured_, they +lose their proper effect. An illumination, at the beginning of the book of +_Esther_, bears the unequivocal date of 1470: but the edition was certainly +four or five years earlier. This Bible is considered to be the earliest +German version: but it is not so. + +LATIN BIBLE, BY MENTELIN: in his second character. This Bible I saw for the +first time; but Panzer is decidedly wrong in saying that the types resemble +the larger ones in Mentelin's _Valerius Maximus_, _Virgil_ and _Terence_: +they may be nearly as tall, but are not so broad and large. From a ms. +note, the 402d leaf appears to be wanting. This copy is a singularly fine +one. It is white, and large, and with rough edges throughout. It is also in +its first binding, of wood. + +LATIN BIBLE; _printed by Eggesteyn_. Here are several editions, and a +duplicate of the first--which is printed in the second smallest character +of Eggesteyn.[219] The two copies of this first edition are pretty much +alike for size and condition: but _one_ of them, with handsome +illuminations at the beginning of each volume, has the precious coeval ms. +date of 1468--as represented by the fac-simile of it in _Schoepflin's Vind. +Typog. Tab. V._ Probably the date of the printing might have been at least +a year earlier. + +LATIN BIBLE: _printed by Jenson_, 1479. Folio. A fine copy, upon paper. The +first page is illuminated. + +To this list of impressions of the SACRED TEXT, may be added a fine copy of +the SCLAVONIAN BIBLE of 1584, folio, with wood cuts, and another of the +HUNGARIAN Bible of 1626, folio: the latter in double columns, with a +crowdedly-printed margin, and an engraved frontispiece. + +As to books upon miscellaneous subjects, I shall lay before you, without +any particular order, my notes of the following: Of the _Speculum Morale_ +of P. Bellovacensis, here said to be printed by Mentelin in 1476, in double +columns, roman type, folio--there is a copy, in one volume, of tremendously +large dimensions; as fine, clean, and crackling as possible. Also a copy of +the _Speculum Judiciale_ of Durandus, _printed at Strasbourg by Hussner and +Rekenhub_, in 1473, folio. Hussner was a citizen of Strasbourg, and his +associate a priest at Mentz. Here is also a perfect copy of the Latin +PTOLEMY, of the supposed date of 1462, with a fine set of the +copper-plates. + +But I must make distinct mention of a _Latin Chronicle, printed by Gotz de +Sletztat_ in 1474, in folio. It is executed in a coarse, large gothic type, +with many capital roman letters. At the end of the alphabetical index of 35 +leaves, we read as follows: + + DEO GRATIAS. + _A tpe ade vsqz ad annos cristi 1474 + Acta et gesta hic suffitienter nuclient + Sola spes mea. In virginis gracia + Nicholaus Gotz. De Sletzstat._ + +The preceding is on the recto; on the reverse of the same leaf is an +account of Inventors of _arts_: no mention is made of that of _printing_. +Then the prologue to the Chronicle, below which is the device of Gotz;[220] +having his name subjoined. The text of the Chronicle concludes at page +CCLXXX--printed numerals--with an account of an event which took place in +the year 1470. But the present copy contains another, and the concluding +leaf--which may be missing in some copies--wherein there is a particular +notice of a splendid event which took place in 1473, between Charles Duke +of Burgundy, and Frederick the Roman Emperor, with Maximilian his Son; +together with divers dukes, earls, and counts attending. The text of this +leaf ends thus; + + _SAVE GAIRT VIVE BVRGVND._ + +Below, within a circle, "Sixtus quartus." This work is called, in a ms. +prefix, the _Chronicle of Foresius_. I never saw, or heard of, another +copy. The present is fine and sound; and bound in wood, covered with +leather. + +Here are two copies of St. _Jerom's Epistles, printed by Schoeffher_ in +1470; of which that below stairs is one of the most magnificent imaginable; +in two folio volumes. Hardly any book can exceed, and few equal it, in size +and condition--unless it be the theological works of ARCHBISHOP ANTONIUS, +_printed by Koeberger_, in 1477, in one enormous folio volume. As a +specimen of Koeberger's press, I am unable at the present moment to mention +any thing which approaches it. I must also notice a copy of the _Speculum +Humanæ Salvationis, printed at Basle, by Richel_, in 1476, folio. It is a +prodigious volume, full of wood cuts, and printed in double columns in a +handsome gothic type. This work seems to be rather a _History of the +Bible_; having ten times the matter of that which belongs to the work with +this title usually prefixed. The copy is in its original wooden binding. + +JUNIANUS MAIUS. _De Propriet. Priscor. Verborum, printed at Treviso by +Bernard de Colonia_, 1477, folio. I do not remember to have before seen any +specimen of this printer's type: but what he has done here, is sufficient +to secure for him typographical immortality. This is indeed a glorious +copy--perfectly large paper--of an elegantly printed book, in a neat gothic +type, in double columns. The first letter of the text is charmingly +illuminated. I shall conclude these miscellaneous articles by the notice of +two volumes, in the list of ROMANCES, of exceedingly rare occurrence. These +romances are called _Tyturell_ and _Partzifal_. The author of them was +_Wolfram von Escenbach_. They are each of the date of 1477, in folio. The +Tyturell is printed prose-wise, and the Partzifal in a metrical form. + +We now come to the Roman CLASSICS, (for of the Greek there are _few or +none_)--before the year 1500. Let me begin with _Virgil_. Here is +_Mentelin's_ very rare edition; but cropt, scribbled upon, and wanting +several leaves. However, there is a most noble and perfect copy of +Servius's Commentary upon the same poet, _printed by Valdarfer_ in 1471, +folio, and bound in primitive boards. There are two perfect copies of +_Mentelin's_ edition (which is the first) of VALERIUS MAXIMUS, of which one +is wormed and cropt. The _other_ Mentelin copy of the Valerius Maximus, +without the Commentary, is perhaps the largest I ever saw--with the ancient +ms. signatures at the bottom-corners of the leaves. Unluckily, the margins +are rather plentifully charged with ms. memoranda. + +Of CICERO, there are of course numerous early editions. I did not see the +_De Officiis_ of 1465, or of 1466, of which Hermann speaks, and to which he +affixes the _novel_ date of 1462:--but I did see the _De Oratore_, printed +by _Vindelin de Spira_ without date; and _such_ a copy I shall probably +never see again! The colour and substance of the paper are yet more +surprising than the size. + +It is hardly possible to see a finer copy of the _Scriptores Hist. Augustæ, +printed by P. de Lavagna_ in 1475, folio. It possesses all the legitimate +evidences of pristine condition, and is bound in its first coat of oak. +Here is a very fine copy of the _Plutarchi Vitæ Paralellæ_, printed in the +letter R, in two large folio volumes, bound in wood, covered by vellum of +the sixteenth century. But, if of _any_ book, it is of the first edition of +_Catullus Tibullus et Propertius_, of 1472, folio--that this Library has +just reason to be proud. Here are in fact _two_ copies, equally sound, pure +and large: but in _one_ the _Propertius_ is wanting;[221] in lieu of which, +however, there is the first edition of JUVENAL and PERSIUS by V. de Spira-- +in equal purity of condition. The perfect copy has the SYLVÆ of STATIUS +subjoined. It should seem, therefore, that the Juvenal and Persius had +supplied the place of the Propertius and Statius, in one copy. You are well +aware of the extreme rarity of this first edition of Catullus Tibullus et +Propertius. + +I now take leave of the _Public Library of Strasbourg_; not however without +mentioning rather an amusing anecdote connected with some of the books just +described; nor without an observation or two upon the present state of the +library. The anecdote is thoroughly bibliographical. After having examined +some of the finer books before mentioned, and especially having dwelt upon +the Latin Bible of Mentelin, and a few copies of the rarer Classics, I +ventured to descant upon the propriety of _parting_ with those for which +there was _no use_, and which, without materially strengthening their own +collection, might, by an advantageous sale, enable them to enrich their +collection by valuable modern books: of which they obviously stood in +_need_. I then proposed so many hundred francs, for such and such volumes. +Messrs. Schweighæuser, jun. Dahler, and several other professors were +standing round me--when I made this proposition. On the conclusion of it, +professor Dahler put his hand upon my shoulder--stooped down--(for I was +sitting the whole time)--and looking half archly, replied thus: "Monsieur +le Bibliographe, vous raisonnez bien: mais--nous conserverons nos anciens +livres." These sturdy conservators were not to be shaken; and none but +_duplicates_ were to be parted with.[222] + +The next observation relates to the collection. Never did a collection +stand in greater need of being weeded. There are medical books sufficient +to supply six copies for the library of every castellated mansion along the +Vosges[223]--should any of them ever be repaired and put in order. +Schoepflin's library furnishes many duplicates both in history and +theology; and in _Classics_ they should at least make good their series of +the more important _first Editions_. The want of a perfect _Virgil_ by +_Mentelin_, and the want of a _first Terence_, by the same printer--their +boasted townsman--are reproachful wants. At any rate, they should not let +slip any opportunity of purchasing the first _Ovid, Horace, Ausonius_, and +_Lucretius_. No man is more deeply impressed with a conviction of these +wants, than the present chief librarian, the younger Schweighæuser; but, +unfortunately, the pecuniary means of supplying them are slender indeed. I +find this to be the case wherever I go. The deficiency of funds, for the +completion of libraries, may however be the cry of _other_ countries +besides _France_. + +As to booksellers, for the sale of modern works, and for doing, what is +called "a great stroke of business," there is no one to compare with the +house of TREUTTEL and WÜRTZ--of which firm, as you may remember, very +honourable mention was made in one of my latter letters from Paris. Their +friendly attention and hospitable kindness are equal to their high +character as men of business. It was frequently in their shop that I met +with some of the savants of Strasbourg; and among them, the venerable and +amiable LICHTENBERGER, author of that very judicious and pains taking +compilation entitled _Initia Typographica_. I was also introduced to divers +of the learned, whose names I may be pardoned for having forgotten. The +simplicity of character, which here marks almost every man of education, is +not less pleasing than profitable to a traveller who wishes to make himself +acquainted with the literature of the country through which he passes. + + +[203] _Alsatia Illustrata_, 1751-61, folio, two volumes. + +[204] In the middle of the fifteenth century there were not fewer than nine + principal gates of entrance: and above the walls were built, at equal + distances, fifty-five towers--surmounted, in turn, by nearly thirty + towers of observation on the exterior of the walls. But in the + beginning of the sixteenth century, from the general adoption of + gunpowder in the art of war, a different system of defence was + necessarily adopted; and the number of these towers was in consequence + diminished. At present there are none. They are supplied by bastions + and redoubts, which answer yet better the purposes of warfare. + +[205] This work is entitled "_Notices Historiques, Statistiques et + Littéraires, sur la Ville de Strasbourg_." 1817, 8vo. A second + volume, published in 1819, completes it. A more judicious, and, as I + learn, faithful compilation, respecting the very interesting city of + which it treats, has not yet been published. + +[206] I had before said 530 English feet; but a note in M. Crapelet's + version (supplied, as I suspect, by my friend M. Schweighæuser,) says, + that from recent strict trigonometrical measurement, it is 437 French + feet in height. + +[207] The _Robertsau_, about three quarters of a mile from Strasbourg, + is considered to be the best place for a view of the cathedral. The + Robertsau is a well peopled and well built suburb. It consists of + three nearly parallel streets, composed chiefly of houses separated by + gardens--the whole very much after the English fashion. In short, + these are the country houses of the wealthier inhabitants of + Strasbourg; and there are upwards of seventy of them, flanked by + meadows, orchards, or a fruit or kitchen garden. It derives the name + of _Robertsau_ from a gentleman of the name of _Robert,_ of the + ancient family of _Bock_. He first took up his residence there about + the year 1200, and was father of twenty children. Consult _Hermann_; + vol. i. p. 209. + +[208] "The engineer Specklin, who, in order to complete his MAP of ALSACE, + traversed the whole chain of the VOSGES, estimates the number of these + castles at little short of _two hundred_: and pushes the antiquity of + some of them as far back as the time of the Romans." See _Hermann_; + vol. i. p. 128, note 20: whose compressed account of a few of these + castellated mansions is well worth perusal, I add this note, from + something like a strong persuasion, that, should it meet the eye of + some enterprising and intelligent English antiquary, it may stimulate + him--within the waning of two moons from reading it, provided those + moons be in the months of Spring--to put his equipage in order for a + leisurely journey along the VOSGES! + +[209] This was formerly called the bell of the HOLY GHOST. It was cast in + 1427, by John Gremp of Strasbourg. It cost 1300 florins; and weighs + eighty quintals;, or 8320 lb.: nearly four tons. It is twenty-two + French feet in circumference, and requires six men to toll it. In + regard to the height, I must not be supposed to speak from absolute + data. Yet I apprehend that its altitude is not much over-rated. + Grandidier has quite an amusing chapter (p. 241, &c.) upon the + thirteen bells which are contained in the tower of this cathedral. + +[210] It was necessary, on the part of my friend, to obtain the consent of + the Prefect to make these drawings. A moveable scaffold was + constructed, which was suspended from the upper parts--and in this + _nervous_ situation the artist made his copies--of the size of the + foregoing cuts. The expense of the scaffold, and of making the + designs, was very inconsiderable indeed. The worthy Prefect, or Mayor, + was so obliging as to make the scaffold a mere gratuitous affair; six + francs only being required for the men to drink! [Can I ever forget, + or think slightly of, such kindness? Never.] + + Cicognara, in his _Storia della Scultura_, 1813, folio, has given but + a very small portion of the above dance; which was taken from the + upper part of a neighbouring house. It is consequently less faithful + and less complete. [In the preceding edition of this work, there are + not fewer than _eleven_ representations of these Drolleries.] + +[211] I think this volume is of the date of 1580. CONRAD DASYPODIUS was + both the author of the work, and the chief mechanic or artisan + employed in making the clock--about which he appears to have taken + several journeys to employ, and to consult with, the most clever + workmen in Germany. The wheels and movements were made by the two + HABRECHTS, natives of Schaffhausen. + +[212] [The Reader may form some notion of its beauty and elaboration of + ornament, from the OPPOSITE PLATE: taken from a print published about + a century and a half ago.] + +[213] See Grandidier, p. 177: where the Latin inscription is given. The + _Ephémérides de l'Académie des Curieux de la Nature_, vol. ii. p. + 400, &c. are quoted by this author--as a contemporaneous authority in + support of the event above mentioned. + +[214] My French translator will have it, that, "this composition, though + not without its faults, is considered, in the estimation of all + connoisseurs, as one of the finest funereal monuments which the modern + chisel has produced." It may be, in the estimation of _some_--but + certainly of a _very small_ portion of--Connoisseurs of first rate + merit. Our Chantry would sicken or faint at the sight of such + allegorical absurdity. + +[215] [This avowal has subjected me to the gentle remonstrance of the + Librarian in question, and to the tart censure of M. Crapelet in + particular. "Voilà le Reverend M. Dibdin (exclaims the latter) qui se + croit obligé de déclarer qu'il n'a rien derobé!" And he then quotes, + apparently with infinite delight, a passage from the _Quarterly + Review_, (No. LXIII. June 1825) in which I am designated as having + "extraordinary talents for ridicule!" But how my talents "for + ridicule" (of which I very honestly declare my unconsciousness) can be + supposed to bear upon the above "prick of conscience," is a matter + which I have yet to learn. My amiable friend might have perhaps + somewhat exceeded the prescribed line of his duty in letting me have + the key of the Library in question--but, can a declaration of such + confidence not having been MISPLACED, justify the flippant remarks of + my Annotator?] + +[216] [It is now published in an entire state by the above competent + Editor.] + +[217] See the authorities quoted, and the subject itself handled, in the + _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. i. p. 316, &c. + +[218] [Here again my sensitive Annotator breaks out into something little + short of personal abuse, for my DARING to _doubt_ what all the world + before had held in solemn _belief_! Still, I will continue to doubt; + without wishing this doubt to be considered as "paroles d'Evangile"-- + as M. Crapelet expresses it.] + +[219] Fully described in the _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. i. p. 39, with + a fac-simile of the type. + +[220] A fac-simile of this device appears in a Latin Bible, without name of + printer, particularly described in the _Ædes Althorpianæ_; vol. ii. p. + 41. Hence we learn that the Bible in question, about the printer of + which there appears to be some uncertainty among bibliographers, was + absolutely printed by Gotz. + +[221] The imperfect copy, being a duplicate, was disposed of for a copy of + the _Bibl. Spenceriana_; and it is now in the fine library of the + Rt. Hon. T. Grenville. The very first glance at this copy will shew + that the above description is not overcharged. + +[222] "These Duplicates related to some few articles of minor importance + belonging to the library of the Public School, and which had escaped a + former revision. The cession was made with due attention to forms, and + with every facility." Such (as I have reason to believe) is the remark + of M. Schweighæuser himself. What follows--evidently by the hand of M. + Crapelet--is perfectly delicious ... of its kind. "That M. Dibdin + should have preferred such an indiscreet request to the Librarians in + question--impelled by his habitual vivacity and love of possessing + books--is conceivable enough: but, that he should _publish_ such an + anecdote--that he should delight in telling us of the rudeness which + he committed in SITTING while the gentlemen about him were STANDING, + is to affect a very uncommon singularity"!!! [Greek: Ô popoi!] + +[223] There are yet libraries, and rare books, in the district. I obtained + for my friend the Rev. H. Drury, one of the finest copies in England + of the first edition of _Cicero's Offices_, of 1465, 4to. UPON + VELLUM--from the collection of a physician living in one of the + smaller towns near the Vosges. This copy was in its ancient oaken + attire, and had been formerly in a monastic library. For this + acquisition my friend was indebted to the kind offices of the + younger M. Schweighæuser. + + + + +_LETTER XIV._ + +SOCIETY. ENVIRONS OF STRASBOURG. DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE, MANNERS AND +CUSTOMS. LITERATURE. LANGUAGE. + + +My last letter, however copious, was almost wholly confined to _views of +interiors_; that is to say, to an account of the Cathedral and of the +Public Library. I shall now continue the narrative with views of interiors +of a different description; with some slight notices of the _society_ and +of the city of Strasbourg; concluding the whole, as well as closing my +Strasbourg despatches, with a summary account of manners, customs, and +literature. + +The great _Greek luminary_, not only of this place, but perhaps of +Germany--the ELDER SCHWEIGHÆUSER--happens to be absent. His son tells me +that he is at _Baden_ for the benefit of the waters, and advises me to take +that "enchanting spot" (as he calls it) in my way to Stuttgart. "'Twill be +only a trifling détour." What however will be the _chief_ temptation--as I +frankly told the younger Schweighæuser--would be the society of his Father; +to whom the son has promised a strong letter of introduction. I told you in +my last that I had seen LICHTENBERGER at Treuttel and Würtz's. I have since +called upon the old gentleman; and we immediately commenced a +bibliographical parley. But it was chiefly respecting Lord Spencer's copies +of the _Letters of Indulgence of Pope Nicolas V._ of the date of 1455, that +he made the keenest enquiries. "Was the date legitimate?" I assured him +there could be no doubt of it; and that what Hæberlin had said, followed by +Lambinet, had no reference whatever to his Lordship's copies--for that, in +_them_, the final units were compressed into a V and not extended by five +strokes, thus--_iiiij_. As he was unacquainted with my account of these +copies in the _Bibliotheca Spenceriana_, I was necessarily minute in the +foregoing statement. The worthy old bibliographer was so pleased with this +account, that he lifted up his eyes and hands, and exclaimed, "one grows +old always to learn something." + +M. Haffner, who was one of the guests at a splendid, but extremely sociable +dinner party at _Madame Franc's_[224] the principal banker here--is a +pleasing, communicative, open-countenanced, and open-hearted gentleman. He +may be about sixty years of age. I viewed his library with admiration. The +order was excellent; and considering what were his _means_, I could not but +highly compliment him upon his prudence and enthusiasm. This was among the +happiest illustrations of the _Bibliomania_ which I had ever witnessed. The +owner of this well chosen collection shewed me with triumph his copy of the +first Greek Testament by _Erasmus_, and his copies of the same sacred book +by _R. Stephen_ and _Wetstein_, in folio. Here too I saw a body of +philological theology (if I may use this term) headed by _Walchius_ and +_Wolff_, upon the possession of a similar collection of which, my late +neighbour and friend, Dr. Gosset, used to expatiate with delight. + +Let me now take you with me out of doors. You love architecture of all +descriptions: but "the olden" is always your "dear delight." In the +construction of the streets of Strasbourg, they generally contrive that the +corner house should _not_ terminate with a right angle. Such a termination +is pretty general throughout Strasbourg. Of the differently, and sometimes +curiously, constructed iron bars in front of the windows, I have also +before made mention. The houses are generally lofty; and the roofs contain +two or three tiers of open windows, garret-fashioned; which gives them a +picturesque appearance; but which, I learn, were constructed as granaries +to hold flour--for the support of the inhabitants, when the city should +sustain a long and rigorous siege. As to _very ancient_ houses, I cannot +charge my memory with having seen any; and the most ancient are those on +the other side of the _Ill_; of which several are near the convent before +mentioned. + +The immediate environs of Strasbourg (as I have before remarked) are very +flat and poor, in a picturesque point of view. They consist chiefly of +fields covered with the _tobacco plant_, which resembles that of our +horse-radish; and the trade of tobacco may be considered the staple, as +well as the indigenous, commodity of the place. This trade is at once +extensive and lucrative; and regulated by very wholesome laws. The +outskirts of the town, considered in an architectural point of view, are +also very indifferent. + +As to the general character, or rather appearance, of the Strasbourgeois, +it is such as to afford very considerable satisfaction. The manners and +customs of the people are simple and sober. The women, even to the class of +menial servants, go abroad with their hair brushed and platted in rather a +tasteful manner, as we even sometimes observe in the best circles of our +own country. The hair is dressed _à la grecque_, and the head is usually +uncovered: contrary to the broad round hats, and depending queues, of the +women inhabiting the neighbourhood of _Saverne_. But you should know that +the farmers about Strasbourg are generally rich in pocket, and choice and +dainty in the disposition of their daughters--with respect to wedlock. They +will not deign to marry them to bourgeois of the ordinary class. They +consider the blood running in their families' veins to be polluted by such +an intermixture; and accordingly they are oftentimes saucy, and hold their +heads high. Even some of the fair dames coming from the high "countre," +whom we saw kneeling the other day, in the cathedral, with their rural +attire, would not commute their circular head pieces for the most curiously +braided head of hair in the city of Strasbourg. + +The utmost order and decency, both in dress and conduct, prevail in the +streets and at spectacles. There seems to be that sober good sense among +the Strasbourgeois--which forms a happy medium between the gaiety of their +western, and the phlegm of their eastern, neighbours; and while this +general good order obtains, we may forgive "officers for mounting guard in +white silk stockings, or for dancing in boots at an assembly--and young +gentlemen for wearing such scanty skirts to their coats:"--subjects, which +appear to have ruffled the good temper of the recent historian of +Strasbourg.[225] It seems clear that the morals of the community, and +especially of the female part, were greatly benefited by the +Reformation,[226] or establishment of the protestant religion. + +In alluding to manners and customs, or social establishments of this place, +you ought to know that some have imagined the origin of _Free-masonry_ may +be traced to Strasbourg; and that the first _lodges_ of that description +were held in this city. The story is this. The cathedral, considered at the +time of its erection as a second _Solomon's temple_, was viewed as the +wonder of the modern world. Its masons, or architects, were the theme of +universal praise. Up rose, in consequence, the cathedrals of _Vienna, +Cologne, Landshut_ and others: and it was resolved that, on the completion +of such stately structures, those, whose mechanical skill had been +instrumental to their erection, should meet in one common bond, and chant +together, periodically, at least their _own_ praises. Their object was to +be considered very much above the common labourer, who wore his apron in +front, and carried his trowel in his hand: on the contrary, _they_ adopted, +as the only emblems worthy of their profession, the level, the square, and +the compass. All the lodges, wherever established, considered that of +Strasbourg as the common parent; and at a meeting held at Ratisbon in 1459, +it was agreed that the ARCHITECT OF STRASBOURG CATHEDRAL should be the +_Grand Master of Free-masons_; and one DOTZINGER of Worms, who had +succeeded Hulz in 1449, (just after the latter, had finished the spire) was +acknowledged to be the FIRST GRAND MASTER. I own my utter ignorance in the +lore of free-masonry; but have thought it worth while to send you these +particulars: as I know you to be very "curious and prying" in antiquarian +researches connected with this subject. + +Strasbourg has been always eminent for its literary reputation, from the +time of the two STURMII, or rather from that of GEYLER, downwards. It +boasts of historians, chroniclers, poets, critics, and philologists. At +this present moment the public school, or university, is allowed to be in a +most flourishing condition; and the name of SCHWEIGHÆUSER alone is +sufficient to rest its pretensions to celebrity on the score of _classical_ +acumen and learning. While, within these last hundred years, the names of +SCHOEPFLIN, OBERLIN, and KOCH, form a host in the department of +_topography_ and _political economy_. + +In _Annals_ and _Chronicles_, perhaps no provincial city in Europe is +richer; while in _old Alsatian poetry_ there is an almost inexhaustible +banquet to feast upon. M. Engelhardt, the brother in law of M. +Schweighæuser junr. is just now busily engaged in giving an account of some +of the ancient love poets, or _Minne-Singers_; and he shewed me the other +day some curious drawings relating to the same, taken from a MS. of the +XIIIth century, in the public library. But Oberlin, in 1786, published an +interesting work "_De Poetis Alsatiæ eroticis medii ævi_"--and more lately +in 1806; M. Arnold in his "_Notice littéraire et historique sur les poëtes +alsaciens_," 1806, 8vo.--enriched by the previous remarks of Schoepflin, +Oberlin, and Frantz--has given a very satisfactory account of the +achievements of the Muses who seem to have inhabited the mountain-tops of +Alsatia--from the ninth to the sixteenth century inclusively. It is a +fertile and an interesting subject. Feign would I, if space and time +allowed, give you an outline of the same; from the religious metres of +_Ottfried_ in the ninth--to the charming and tender touches which are to be +found in the _Hortus deliciarum_[227] of _Herade_ Abbess of Landsberg, in +the twelfth-century: not meaning to pass over, in my progress, the +effusions of philology and poetry which distinguished the rival abbey of +_Hohenbourg_ in the same century. Indeed; not fewer than three Abbesses-- +_Rélinde, Herade, and _Edelinde_--cultivated literature at one and the same +time: when, in Arnold's opinion, almost the whole of Europe was plunged in +barbarism and ignorance. Then comes _Günther_, in the fifteenth century; +with several brave geniuses in the intervening period: and, latterly, the +collection of the _Old Troubadour Poetry of Alsace_, by _Roger Maness_--of +which there is a MS. in the Royal Library at Paris; and another (containing +matter of a somewhat later period) in the Public library here; of which +latter not a specimen, as I understand, has seen the light in the form of a +printed text. + +In later times, _Brandt, Wimphelin, Locher, Baldus, Pfeffel_, and +_Nicolay_, are enough to establish the cause of good poetry, and the +celebrity of this city in the production of such poets. As to the +_Meister-Sængers_ (or Master-Singers) who composed the strains which they +sang, perhaps the cities of Mentz and Nuremberg may vie with that of +Strasbourg, in the production of this particular class. _Hans Sachs_ of +Nuremberg, formerly a cobler, was considered to be the very _Coryphoeus_ +of these Master-Singers. At the age of fourscore he is said to have +composed four thousand three hundred and seventy verses. + +A word or two only respecting the language spoken at Strasbourg. From the +relative situation of the town, this language would necessarily be of a +mixed character: that is to say, there would be intermarriages between the +Germans and French--and the offspring of such marriages would necessarily +speak a _patois_. This seems to be generally admitted. The ancient language +of Strasbourg is said to have been the pure dialect of _Suabia_; but, at +present, the dialect of _Saxony_, which is thought to be purer as well as +more fashionable, is carefully taught in the schools of both sexes, and +spoken by all the ministers in the pulpit. Luther wrote in this dialect, +and all protestant preachers make use of it as a matter of course. Yet +Hermann labours to prove how much softer the dialect of High Germany is +than that of High Saxony. There have lately appeared several small +brochures in the _common language_ of the town--such, of course, as is +ordinarily spoken in the shops and streets: and among others, a comedy +called; _Der Pfingst-Montag_, written (says Hermann) with much spirit; but +the author of this latter work has been obliged to mark the pronunciation, +which renders the perusal of it somewhat puzzling. It is also accompanied +with a glossary. But that you, or your friends, may judge for yourselves, I +send you a specimen of the _patois_, or common language spoken in the +street--in the enclosed ballad: which I purchased the other day, for about +a penny of our money, from an old goody, who was standing upon a stool, and +chanting it aloud to an admiring audience. I send you the first four +stanzas.[228] + + Im Namen der allerheiligsten Dreifaltigkeit + + das goldene ABC, + + Neu verfasst für Jedermann, dass er mit Ehr' bestehen kann. + + Alles ist an Gottes Segen, + Was wir immer thun, gelegen, + Arbeit aber bleibt doch unsre Pflicht: + Der Träge hat den segen Gottes nicht. + + Behalt' ein weises Maass in allen Stücken; + Das Uebertriebne kann dich nicht beglücken. + Dies Sprichwort trifft in allen Dingen ein: + Das Gute selbst muss eingeschränket seyn. + + Christ! sey der Rache nicht ergeben, + Der Zorn verbittert nur das Leben; + Und wer dem Feinde gern verzeiht, + Geniesst schon hier der Seligkeit. + + Der wird verachtet von der Welt, + Der das gegebne Wort nicht hält: + Drum gieb dein Wort nich leicht von dir; + Hast du's gethan, so steh' dafür. + + + + _In the name of the most Holy Trinity._ + + THE GOLDEN A B C. + + _Newly set forth to enable every man to stand fast in honour._ + + _Howe'er employed, we ev'ry nerve should strain + On all our works God's blessings to obtain. + Whilst here on earth to labour we're ordain'd; + The lazy never yet God's blessing gain'd._ + + _In all things strive a medium to procure; + Redundance never can success insure: + This proverb will in all things be found true, + That good itself, should have its limits due. + Christian! avoid revenge and strife, + For anger tends to embitter life: + And he who readily forgives his foe, + Ev'n here on earth true happiness shall know. + + He who the promise he hath given denies, + Will find the world most justly him despise; + Be cautious then how thou a promise make, + But, having made it, ne'er that promise break_. + +DANNBACH is the principal Greek printer of this place; his Greek type +(which I cannot too much commend) is precisely that used in the _Bipont +Thucydydes_ and _Plato_. The principal printers, for works in which the +Greek type is not introduced, is LEVRAULT _Pere et Fils_: and I must say +that, if even a fastidious author, a resident Strasbourgeois,--whose +typographical taste had been formed upon the beautifully executed volumes +of Bodoni, Didot, or Bulmer--chose to publish a fine book, he need not send +it to _Paris_ to be printed; for M. Levrault is both a skilful, +intelligent, and very able printer and publisher. I visited him more than +once. He has a considerable commercial establishment. His shop and +warehouses are large and commodious; and Madame Levrault is both active and +knowing in aiding and abetting the concerns of her husband. I should +consider their house to be a rich one. M. Levrault is also a very fair +typographical antiquary. He talked of Fust and Jenson with earnestness, and +with a knowledge of their productions; and told me that he had, up stairs, +a room full of old books, especially of those printed by _Aldus_--and +begged I would walk up and inspect them. You will give me credit for having +done so readily. But it was a "poor affair,"--for the fastidious taste of +an Englishman. There was literally nothing in the way of temptation; and so +I abstained from tempting the possessor by the offer of napoleons or golden +ducats. We had a long and a very gratifying interview; and I think he +shewed me (not for the purpose of sale) a copy of the famous tract of St. +Austin, called _De Arte prædicandi_, printed by _Fust_ or by _Mentelin_; in +which however, as the copy was imperfect, he was not thoroughly conversant. +They are all proud at Strasbourg of their countryman Mentelin, and of +course yet more so of Gutenberg; although this latter was a native of +Mentz. Mr. Levrault concluded his conversation by urging me, in strong +terms, to visit _Colmar_ ere I crossed the Rhine; as that place abounded +with "DES INCUNABLES TYPOGRAPHIQUES." I told him that it was impossible; +that I had a great deal on my hands to accomplish on the other side of the +Rhine; and that my first great stroke, in the way of BOOK-ACQUISITIONS, +must be struck at _Stuttgart_. M. Levrault seemed surprised--"for truly," +(added he) "there are no _old_ books there, save in the _Public Library_." +I smiled, and wished him a good day. + +Upon the whole, my dear friend, I have taken rather an affection for this +place. All classes of people are civil, kind, and communicative: but my +obligations are due, in a more especial manner, to the younger Mr. +Schweighæuser and to Madame Francs. I have passed several pleasant evenings +with the former, and talked much of the literature of our country with him +and his newly married spouse: a lively, lady-like, and intelligent woman. +She is warm in commendation of the _Mary Stuart_ of Schiller; which, in +reply to a question on my part, she considers to be the most impassioned of +that Dramatist's performances. Of English she knows nothing; but her +husband is well read in Thomson, Akenside, and Pope; and of course is +sufficiently well acquainted with our language. A more amiable and zealous +man, in the discharge of his duties as a teacher of youth, the town of +Strasbourg does not possess. His little memoir of Koch has quite won my +heart.[229] + +You have heard me mention the name of OHMACHT, a sculptor. He is much +caressed by the gentry of this place. Madame Francs shewed me what I +consider to be his best performance; a profile, in white marble, of her +late daughter, who died in childbed, in her twenty-first year. It is a +sweet and tender production: executed upon the Greek model--and said to be +a strong resemblance of the deceased. Madame Francs shewed it to me, and +expatiated upon it with tears in her eyes: as she well might--for the +_character_ of the deceased was allowed to have been as attractive as her +countenance.[230] I will candidly confess that, in other respects, I am a +very _qualified_ admirer of the talents of Ohmacht. His head of Oberlin is +good; but it is only a profile. I visited his _Studio_, and saw him busy +upon a colossal head of Luther--in a close-grained, but coarse-tinted, +stone. I liked it as little as I have always liked heads of that celebrated +man. I want to see a resemblance of him in which vulgarity shall be lost in +energy of expression. Never was there a countenance which bespoke greater +intrepidity of heart. + +I am hastening to the close of this despatch, and to take leave of this +place. Through the interposition of Messrs. Treuttel and Würtz, I have +hired a respectable servant, or laquais, to accompany me to Vienna, and +back again to Manheim. His name is _Rohfritsch_; and he has twice visited +the Austrian capital in the rear of Napoleon's army,--when he was only in +his sixteenth or seventeenth year--as a page or attendant upon one of the +Generals. He talks the French and German languages with equal fluency. I +asked him if we needed fire arms; at which he smiled--as if wondering at my +simplicity or ignorance. In truth, the question was a little precipitate; +for, the other evening, I saw two or three whiskered Bavarian travellers, +starting hence for Munich, in an open, fourgon-shaped travelling carriage, +with two benches across it: on the front bench sat the two gentlemen, +wrapped round with clokes: on the hinder bench, the servant took his +station--not before he had thrown into the carriage two huge bags of +_florins_, as unconcernedly as if they had been bags of _pebbles_. They +were to travel all night--without sabre, pistol, or carbine, for +protection. + +I own this gave me a very favourable opinion of the country I was about to +visit; and on recollecting it, had good reason to acquiesce in the +propriety of the smiles of Rohfritsch. Every thing, therefore, is now +settled: gold ducats and silver florins have been obtained from Madame +Francs; and to morrow we start. My next will be from _Stuttgart_--where a +"deed of note" will, I trust, be accomplished. Fare you well. + + +[224] [This dinner party is somewhat largely detailed in the preceding + edition of this work; but it scarcely merits repetition here; the more + so, since the presiding Hostess is NO MORE!] + +[225] _Hermann_; vol. i. p. 154. + +[226] _greatly benefited by the Reformation_.]--Among the benefactors + to the cause of public morality, was the late lamented and ever + memorable KOCH. Before the year 1536, it should seem, from Koch's + statement, that even whole streets as well as houses were occupied by + women of a certain description. After this year, there were only two + houses of ill fame left. The women, of the description before alluded + to, used to wear black and white hats, of a sugar-loaf form, over the + veil which covered their faces; and they were confined strictly to + this dress by the magistrates. These women were sometimes represented + in the sculptured figures about the cathedral. Hermann says that there + may yet be seen, over the door of a house in the _Bickergase_ (one of + the streets now called _Rue de la fontaine_, which was formerly + devoted to the residence of women of ill fame) a bas-relief, + representing two figures, with the following German inscription + beneath: + + _Diss haus steht in Gottes Hand + Wird zu deu freud'gen kindern gennant._ + + which he translates thus: + + _Cette maison; dans la main de Dieu, + S'appelle aux enfans bien joyeux_. + + It should seem, therefore, (continues Hermann) that this was one of + the houses in which a public officer attended, to keep order, prevent + quarrels, and exact municipal rights. The book, in which the receipt + of this tax was entered, existed during the time of the Revolution, + and is thought to be yet in existence. Hermann, vol. i. p. 156. + +[227] See p. 401 ante. + +[228] For the English metrical version I am indebted to "an old hand at + these matters." + +[229] Since the publication of this Tour, I have received several pleasant + and thoroughly friendly letters from the above excellent Individual: + and I could scarcely forgive myself if I omitted this opportunity of + annexing his autograph:--as a worthy companion to those which have + preceded it. + + [Autograph: Schweighæuser] + +[230] [Madame Francs, whose kind and liberal conduct towards me can never + be forgotten, has now herself become the subject of a monumental + effigy. She DIED (as I learn) in the year 1826.] + + + + +END OF VOL. II. + + * * * * * + +London: Printed by W. 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