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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of
+Trapping and Trap Making, by William Hamilton Gibson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making
+
+Author: William Hamilton Gibson
+
+Release Date: January 2, 2007 [EBook #17093]
+[This file was first posted on November 18, 2005]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS AND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert J. Hall
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS
+
+AND THE
+
+TRICKS OF TRAPPING
+
+AND
+
+TRAP MAKING
+
+
+CONTAINING
+
+COMPREHENSIVE HINTS ON CAMP SHELTER, LOG HUTS, BARK SHANTIES, WOODLAND
+BEDS AND BEDDING, BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, AND VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS
+ON TRAPPERS' FOOD, ETC. WITH EXTENDED CHAPTERS ON THE TRAPPER'S
+ART, CONTAINING ALL THE "TRICKS" AND VALUABLE BAIT RECIPES OF THE
+PROFESSION; FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE USE OF THE STEEL TRAP, AND
+FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF TRAPS OF ALL KINDS; DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS
+FOR THE CAPTURE OF ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS; VALUABLE RECIPES FOR
+THE CURING AND TANNING OF FUR SKINS, ETC., ETC.
+
+
+BY W. HAMILTON GIBSON
+
+AUTHOR OF "PASTORAL DAYS"
+
+
+_ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR_
+
+
+
+
+[Page 1]
+TO MY BELOVED FRIENDS
+
+MR. AND MRS. F. W. GUNN,
+
+KIND INSTRUCTORS, AND PARTICIPANTS
+
+IN THE
+
+BRIGHTEST JOYS OF MY YOUTH,
+
+THIS BOOK IS
+
+AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY
+
+THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 3]
+[Illustration]
+
+PREFACE
+
+[Illustration: O]f all the various subjects in the catalogue of sports
+and pastimes, there is none more sure of arousing the enthusiasm of
+our American boys generally, than that which forms the title of
+this book. Traps and Trapping, together with its kindred branches,
+always have been and always _will_ be subjects of great interest
+among boys, and particularly so to those who live in the country.
+
+It is a fact to be regretted that we have so few examples of "Boys'
+Books" published in this country. There are a few English works
+of this character, that are very excellent as far as they go, but
+are nevertheless incomplete and unsatisfactory to the wants of
+American boys, dwelling largely on sports which are essentially
+English, and merely touching upon or utterly excluding _other_
+topics which are of the _utmost_ interest to boys of this country.
+In no one of these books, so far as the author of the present volume
+knows, is the subject of Traps considered to any fair extent, and
+those examples which are given, represent only the most common
+and universal varieties already known to the general public.
+
+[Page 4]
+With these facts in mind, the author has entered with zealous enthusiasm
+upon the preparation of a work which shall fill this odd and neglected
+corner in literature, and judging from the reminiscences of his
+own boyish experiences, he feels certain that in placing such a
+volume within reach of the public, he supplies a long felt want
+in the hearts of his boy-friends throughout the land.
+
+Far be it from us in the publication of this volume, to be understood
+as encouraging the wanton destruction of poor innocent animals. Like
+all kindred sports, hunting and fishing for example, the sport of
+Trapping may be perverted and carried to a point where it becomes
+simple cruelty, as is _always_ the case when pursued for the mere
+_excitement_ it brings. If the poor victims are to serve no use
+after their capture, either as food, or in the furnishing of their
+plumage or skins for useful purposes, the sport becomes heartless
+cruelty, and we do not wish to be understood as encouraging it
+under any such circumstances. In its _right_ sense trapping is
+a delightful, healthful, and legitimate sport, and we commend it
+to all our boy-readers.
+
+It shall be the object of the author to produce a thoroughly _practical_
+volume, presenting as far as possible such examples of the trap
+kind as any boy, with a moderate degree of ingenuity, could easily
+construct, and furthermore to illustrate each variety with the
+utmost plainness, supplemented with the most detailed description.
+
+With the exception of all "clap-trap," our volume will embrace
+nearly every known example of the various devices used for the
+capture of Bird, Beast, or Fowl, in all countries, simplifying such
+as are impracticable on account of their complicated structure,
+and modifying others to the peculiar adaptation of the American
+Trapper.
+
+Devices, which inflict cruelty and prolonged suffering, shall,
+as far as possible, be excluded, as this is not a necessary
+qualification in any trap, and should be guarded against wherever
+possible. Following out the suggestion conveyed under the
+[Page 5]
+title of "The Trapper," we shall present full and ample directions
+for baiting traps, selections of ground for setting, and other
+hints concerning the trapping of all our principal game and wild
+animals, valuable either as food or for their fur. In short, our
+book shall form a complete trapper's guide, embracing all necessary
+information on the subject, anticipating every want, and furnishing
+the most complete and fully illustrated volume on this subject
+ever presented to the public. In vain did the author of this work,
+in his younger days, search the book stores and libraries in the
+hopes of finding such a book, and many are the traps and snares
+which necessity forced him to invent and construct for himself, for
+want of just such a volume. Several of these original inventions
+will appear in the present work for the first time in book form,
+and the author can vouch for their excellence, and he might almost
+say, their infallibility, for in their perfect state he has never
+yet found them to "miss" in a single instance.
+
+As the writer's mind wanders back to his boyish days, there is
+one autumn in particular which shines out above all the rest; and
+that was when his traps were first set and were the chief source
+of his enjoyment. The adventurous excitement which sped him on in
+those daily tramps through the woods, and the buoyant, exhilarating
+effect of the exercise can be realized only by those who have had the
+same experience. The hope of success, the fears of disappointment,
+the continual suspense and wonder which fill the mind of the young
+trapper, all combine to invest this sport with a charm known to no
+other. Trapping does not consist merely in the manufacture and setting
+of the various traps. The study of the habits and peculiarities of
+the different game--here becomes a matter of great importance;
+and the study of natural history under these circumstances affords
+a continual source of pleasure and profit.
+
+Among the most useful, although the most cruel, of inventions used
+by the professional trapper are the steel traps; so much so that
+the author would gladly omit them. But as they are of such unfailing
+[Page 6]
+action, of such universal efficacy, and in many cases are the only
+ones that can be used, any book on trapping would certainly be
+incomplete without them. The scope of our volume not only embraces
+the arts of trapping and trap-making, but extends further into the
+subject of the wild life of a trapping campaign,--containing full
+directions for building log cabins, and shanties; boats and canoes;
+hints on food and cooking utensils; also full directions for the
+curing and tanning of fur skins,--in short, a complete repository of
+all useful information pertaining to the life and wants of a
+professional trapper.
+
+In the preparation of the work no pains have been spared to insure
+clearness in general directions, and every point which would be
+likely to puzzle the reader has been specially covered by separate
+illustration. In this particular it stands unique in the list of
+boys' books. Every difficulty has been anticipated, and in every
+instance the illustrations will be found thoroughly comprehensive
+and complete. That the care and thoroughness which has been displayed
+throughout the work, and to which its pages will bear witness,
+may meet with the appreciation and enthusiastic approval of every
+boy-reader throughout the land, is the most earnest hope of
+
+THE AUTHOR.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page iii]
+[Illustration: CONTENTS]
+
+BOOK I.
+
+TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.
+
+Introduction.--THE DEAD FALL.--Honey as Bait for Bears.--THE GUN
+TRAP.--Peculiar Habits of the Puma.--"Baiting" for the Puma.--Caution
+required in Setting the Gun Trap.--Several Guns used.--Different
+Modes of Setting.--Various animals to which the Gun Trap is
+adapted.--THE BOW TRAP.--Vane and Barb for Arrows.--Best Wood for
+Bow.--A Second Example of Bow Trap.--Arrows Barbed and Poisoned.--THE
+DOWN FALL; or Hippopotamus Trap.--The terrible Harpoon used by
+the African Trapper.--Different Modes of Setting the Down
+Fall.--Modification of the Down Fall for small animals.--THE BEAR
+TRAP.--Various Methods of Setting.--Honey as Bait for Bear.--Bait
+for Puma.--THE PITFALL.--Use of the Trap in Asia as a means of
+defence against the Tiger.--Disposition of the Bait.--Wonderful
+agility of the Puma.--Niceties required in the construction of
+the Pitfall.--THE LOG COOP TRAP.--Various animals for which it
+is adapted.--Different Modes of Setting.--THE CORRALL OR HOPO of
+Africa.--Its Construction and Appalling Effects.--THE NET TRAP.--Its
+Use in the Capture of the Lion and the Tiger.--American animals to
+which it may be adapted.--Two Methods of Setting.--BIRD LIME.--Its
+Use for the Capture of the Lion and Tiger.
+
+[Page iv]
+BOOK II.
+
+SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS.
+
+General Remarks.--Requisite Materials for Snaring.--THE QUAIL
+SNARE.--"Sucker Wire" Nooses.--Six Quail caught at a time.--HOOP
+NOOSES.--HORSE HAIR NOOSES.--HEDGE NOOSES.--Peculiarities of the
+Grouse.--Selection of Ground.--THE TRIANGLE TREE SNARE.--A Hawk
+captured by the device.--The Wire Noose, as arranged for the capture
+of the Woodchuck, Muskrat, and House Rat.--THE TWITCH-UP.--Selection
+of Ground for Setting.--Various Modes of Constructing the Traps.--THE
+POACHERS' SNARE.--Its portability.--THE PORTABLE SNARE.--Its Peculiar
+Advantages.--The "Simplest" Snare.--The valuable principle on which
+it is Constructed.--Its Portability.--Various Adaptations of the
+Principle.--THE QUAIL SNARE.--Its ample capabilities of
+Capture.--Peculiarities of the Quail.--Successful Baits.--THE BOX
+SNARE.--Modification in a very small scale.--THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.--The
+Animals for which it is Adapted.--GROUND SNARES.--THE OLD-FASHIONED
+SPINGLE.--THE IMPROVED SPINGLE.--Objections to Ground Snares.--THE
+FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.--THE PLATFORM SNARE.
+
+BOOK III.
+
+TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.
+
+THE SIEVE TRAP.--THE BRICK TRAP.--THE COOP TRAP--Improved Method
+of Setting.--Defects of the old style.--THE BAT FOWLING NET.--Its
+Use in England.--How the Dark Lantern is Used by Bird Catchers.--THE
+CLAP NET.--Its Extensive Use in Foreign Countries.--Decoy Birds.--The
+"Bird Whistle" used in place of decoy.--Wonderful Skill attained in
+the Use of the Bird Whistle.--Selection of Trapping Ground.--THE
+BIRD WHISTLE Described.--Its Use and Marvelous Capabilities.--THE
+WILD GOOSE TRAP.--Its Extensive Use in the Northern Cold Regions
+for the Capture of the Goose and Ptarmigan.--Tame Goose Used as
+Decoys.--Gravel as Bait.--THE TRAP CAGE.--A Favorite Trap among
+Bird Catchers.--Call Birds.--THE SPRING NET TRAP.--Rubber Elastic
+as Spring Power.--A SIMPLER NET TRAP.--Common Faults in many Bird
+Traps.--Complicated Construction as Unnecessary Feature.--Requisites
+of a good Bird Trap.--Hints on Simple Mechanism.--Different Modes
+of Constructing Hinge.--Hoop Iron Used as Spring Power.--Manner
+of Tempering Spring.--THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.--A Second Method of
+Constructing Platform.--THE BOX OWL TRAP.--Ventilation a Desirable
+Feature in all Box Traps.--Tin Catch for Securing Cover in
+Place.--Peculiar Mode of Baiting for Birds.--Modification of
+Perch.--Baiting for the Owl.--Locality for Setting.--The Owl in
+Captivity.--Its Food.--Hints on the Care of the Bird.--THE BOX
+BIRD TRAP.--Cigar Box Used as a Trap.--THE PENDANT BOX
+TRAP.--Ventilation.--Simple Mechanism.--Care in Construction of
+Bearings.--THE HAWK TRAP.--A "Yankee" Invention.--Stiff-Pointed
+Wires Effectually Use in the Capture of the Hawk.--Owl also Captured
+by the Same Device.--THE WILD DUCK NET.--Its Use in Chesapeake
+Bay.--Manner of Constructing the Net.--Decoy Ducks.--Bait for the
+Ducks.--THE HOOK TRAP.--Its cruel Mode of Capture.--Peculiar Bait
+for Ducks.--THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.--Its Successful Use in the Capture
+of the Crow.--Shrewdness of the Crow.--Strange antics of a Crow when
+Captured in the Trap.--Bird Lime the Secret of its Success.--Wonderful
+Tenacity of the Cap.--Different Modes of Setting.--BIRD LIME
+Described.--Its astonishing "Sticky" Qualities.--The Bird Lime
+of the Trade.--Various "Home-Made" Recipes.--Manner of Using Bird
+Lime.--Limed Twigs.--The Owl Used as a Decoy in connection with
+Bird Lime.--Bird Lime used in the Capture of the Humming Bird.--A
+Flower Converted into a Trap.--Masticated Wheat as Bird Lime.--Its
+Ready Removal from the Feathers.--Delicate Organization of the
+Humming Bird.--Killed by Fright.--Use of its Plumage.--Snares for the
+Humming Bird.--Blow Guns Successfully Used for its Capture.--Killed
+by Concussion.--Disabled by a Stream of Water.
+
+[Page v]
+BOOK IV.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.
+
+THE COMMON BOX TRAP.--Two Modes of Setting.--Animals for which it
+is Adapted.--A Modification of the Trap.--ANOTHER BOX TRAP.--THE
+FIGURE FOUR TRAP.--Its Advantages.--THE DOUBLE ENDER.--A Favorite
+Trap in New England.--Simplicity of Construction.--The Rabbit's
+Fondness for Salt.--Its Use as a Bait.--THE SELF SETTING TRAP.--Animals
+for which it is adapted.--THE DEAD FALL.--Various Methods of
+Construction.--Animals for which it is usually Set.--Remarkable
+Cunning of some Animals.--The Precautions which it Necessitates.--Bait
+for the Muskrat.--Various Baits for the Mink.--Skunk Baits.--A Fox
+Entrapped by a Dead Fall.--Slight Modification in the Arrangement
+of Pieces.--Live Duck used as Bait.--Another Arrangement for the
+Dead Fall.--Trap Sprung by the Foot of the Animal.--THE FIGURE FOUR
+TRAP.--Applied to the Dead Fall.--THE GAROTTE.--Its Singular Mode
+of Capture.--Its Common Victims.--THE BOW TRAP.--An oddity of the
+Trap Kind.--Its Singular mechanism.--THE MOLE TRAP.--A Much-needed
+Contrivance.--Subterranean Mode of Setting.--Its Unfailing Success.--A
+FISH TRAP.--A Section of Stove Pipe used as a Trap.--Its Various
+Victims.--Adjustment of the Bait.--Curious Mode of Capture.
+
+BOOK V.
+
+HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.
+
+A Chapter Dedicated to Pestered Housekeepers.--The Domestic Cat
+as a Household Trap.--The Rat.--Its Proverbial Shrewdness and
+Cunning.--THE BARREL TRAP.--Its unlimited Capabilities of Capture--Other
+Advantages.--"Baiting" for Rats.--A Second Form of Barrel Trap.--Various
+other Devices adapted to the capture of the Rat.--The Steel Trap.--Hints
+on Setting.--Necessary Precautions.--THE BOX DEAD FALL.--THE BOARD
+FLAP.--THE BOX PIT FALL.--Animals for which it may be set.--Its
+Extensive Capabilities of Capture.--Its Self-Setting Qualities.--The
+principle Utilized for the Capture of the Muskrat.--THE CAGE TRAP.--THE
+JAR TRAP.--A Preserve Jar Converted into a Mouse Trap.--Its Complete
+Success.--BOWL TRAPS.--Two Methods.--FLY PAPER.--Recipe for Making.--FLY
+TRAP.
+
+BOOK VI.
+
+STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.
+
+General Remarks.--Advantages of the Steel Trap.--Its extensive use in
+the business of Trapping.--Hints on the Selection of Traps.--REQUISITES
+OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.--The Newhouse Trap.--Various sizes.--Rat
+Trap.--Muskrat Trap.--Mink Trap.--Fox Trap.--Otter Trap.--Beaver
+Trap.--"Great Bear Tamer."--Small Bear Trap.--HINTS ON BAITING
+THE STEEL TRAP.--The Staked Pen.--Old Method of Baiting.--Its
+Objections.--Advantages of the New Method.--THE SPRING POLE.--Its
+Service to the Trapper.--THE SLIDING POLE.--Advantages of its Use
+in the Capture of Aquatic Animals.--THE CLOG.--Objections against
+Securing the Steel Trap to a Stake.--Method of Attaching the Clog.--THE
+GRAPPLING IRON.--THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING.--Best condition for Furs.--THE
+ART OF TRAPPING.--Antiquity of the Sport.--Necessary Qualifications
+for Successful Trapping.--The Study of Natural History a source
+of pleasure and profit.--The Professional Trapper's most serious
+[Page vi]
+Obstacles.--Marvellous Cunning of many Animals.--Necessity of the
+Study of their Habits.--"Practical Natural History."--Trapping Without
+Bait.--Run-ways or By-paths.--How Utilized by the Trapper.--How
+Detected.--Favorable Localities for the Setting of the Steel
+Trap.--Natural Advantages.--Entrapping animals through their Sense
+of Smell.--Remarkable Power of Scent Baits.--Their great value
+in the Capture of the Beaver.--Caution in Handling the Steel
+Trap.--Effect of the Touch of the Hand.--Buckskin Gloves a Necessary
+Requisite.--MEDICINES, OR SCENT BAITS.--Their Great Importance in the
+Art of Trapping.--CASTOREUM OR BARKSTONE.--How Obtained.--Castoreum
+Composition.--Recipe for Making.--How Used.--MUSK--ASSAFOETIDA.--OIL
+OF RHODIUM.--FISH OIL.--Its General Use in the Capture of Aquatic
+Animals.--Valuable Recipe for its Manufacture.--OIL OF SKUNK.--How
+Obtained.--How Eradicated from Hands or Clothing.--OIL OF AMBER.--OIL
+OF AMBERGRIS.--OIL OF ANISE.--Its General Use as a "Universal
+Medicine."--SWEET FENNEL.--CUMMIN--FENUGREEK--LAVENDER--COMPOUND
+MEDICINE--THE TRAIL--Its Object and Value.--Various Modes of
+Making.--HOW TO TRAP.--General Remarks.--THE FOX.--Its Scientific
+Classification.--The Various American Species.--The Red Fox.--The
+Cross Fox.--Why so Named.--The Black or Silver Fox.--The Great
+Value of its Fur.--The Prairie Fox.--The Kit or Swift Fox.--The
+Gray Fox.--Similarity in the General Characteristics of the Various
+Species.--Food of the Fox.--Its Home.--Its consummate Craft.--Instances
+of its Cunning.--Baffling the Hounds.--How to Trap the Fox.--Preparation
+of the Trap.--Adverse Effect of Human Scent.--Necessity of handling Trap
+with Gloves.--The "Bed."--"Baiting" the Bed Necessary.--Precautions in
+Setting the Trap.--The "Tricks of the Trapper" Illustrated.--How to
+Proceed in case of Non-Success.--The Scent-Baits Utilized.--Various
+Modes of Setting the Trap.--The Baits Commonly Used.--The Dead Fall
+as a Means of Capture.--Common Mode of Skinning the Fox.--Directions
+for Stretching Skin.--THE WOLF.--The Various Species.--Fierce
+Characteristics of the Wolf.--Its Terrible Inroads among Herds and
+Flocks.--The Gray Wolf.--The Coyote or Common Prairie Wolf.--The
+Texan Wolf.--Home of the Wolf.--Number of Young.--Cunning of the
+Wolf.--Caution Required in Trapping.--How to Trap the Wolf.--Preparation
+of Trap.--Various Ways of Setting the Trap.--Use of the Trail and
+Scent Baits.--"Playing Possum."--The Dead Fall and "Twitch-up"
+as Wolf Traps.--Directions for Skinning the Wolf and Stretching
+the Pelt.--THE PUMA.--Its Scientific Classification.--Its Life
+and Habits.--Its Wonderful Agility.--Its Skill as an Angler.--Its
+Stealth.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Puma.--The Gun
+Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Dead Fall.--Trap for Taking the Animal
+Alive.--Log Coop Trap.--The Pit Fall.--Bait for the Puma.--The Steel
+Trap.--Common Mode of Setting.--Selection of Locality for Trapping.--How
+to Skin the Puma.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE CANADA
+LYNX.--Description of the Animal.--Its Life and Habits.--Its Food.--Its
+Peculiar Appearance when Running.--Easily Killed.--The Dead Fall as
+a Lynx Trap.--Peculiar Manner of Construction for the Purpose.--The
+Gun Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Twitch-up.--Young of the Lynx.--Value
+of its Fur.--The Steel Trap.--Various Methods of Setting.--Directions
+for Skinning the Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE WILD CAT.--Its
+Resemblance to the Domestic Species.--Its Strange Appetite.--Its
+Home.--Number of Young.--Haunts of the Wild Cat.--Its Nocturnal
+Marauding expeditions.--Its Lack of Cunning.--How to Trap the Wild
+Cat.--An Entire Colony Captured.--Ferocity of the Wild Cat.--The
+Twitch-up.--Its Common Use in the Capture of the Wild Cat.--Other
+Successful Traps.--Various Baits for the Wild Cat.--Directions
+for Skinning the Animal, and Stretching the Pelt.--THE BEAR.--The
+Various American Species.--The Grizzly.--Its Enormous Size and
+Power.--Its Terrible Fury.--Description of the Animal.--Food of the
+Grizzly.--The Black Bear or Musquaw.--Its General Description.--Bear
+Hunting.--Danger of the Sport.--Food of the Bear.--Its Fondness for
+Pigs.--Honey Its Special Delight.--The Cubs.--The Flesh of the
+Bear as Food.--"Bears' Grease."--Hibernation of the Bear.--Traps
+for the Bear.--The Dead
+[Page vii]
+Fall.--Pit-fall.--Giant Coop.--Gun Trap.--The Steel Trap.--The
+Clog and Grappling-Iron.--Their Advantages.--How to Trap the
+Bear.--Various Methods of Adjusting Traps.--Natural Advantages.--Honey
+as Bait.--Other Baits.--Scent Baits.--Skinning the Bear.--Directions
+for Stretching the Pelt.--THE RACCOON.--Classification--Cunning
+and Stealth of the Animal.--Characteristic Features.--The "Coon
+Chase."--How the Raccoon is Hunted.--The "Tree'd Coon."--Varied
+Accomplishments of the Raccoon.--Its Home and Family.--The "Coon"
+as a Pet.--Its Cunning Ways.--Its Extensive Bill of Fare.--Life and
+Habits of the Raccoon.--Remarkable Imprint of its Paw.--Season for
+Trapping the Coon.--How to Trap the Coon.--Various Modes of Setting
+the Trap.--Use of the "medicines" or "Scent Baits."--Other Traps for
+the Animal.--Directions for Removing the Skin, and Stretching the
+Pelt.--THE BADGER.--Its Peculiar Markings.--Use of the Hair.--Nest of
+the Badger.--Number of Young.--Food of the Animal.--Its Remarkable
+Fondness for Honey.--Its Cunning.--Remarkable Instincts.--Its
+Shrewdness.--How to Trap the Badger.--Various Baits.--Use of
+"Medicine."--Capture of the Animal by Flooding its Burrow.--How
+to Skin the Badger.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE
+BEAVER.--Description of the Animal.--Its Nature and Habits.--The
+Beaver Village.--The "Lodges," or Beaver Houses.--Remarkable
+Construction of the Huts.--The Dam of the Beaver.--Wonderful Skill
+shown in its Construction.--Nocturnal Habits of the Beaver.--Remarkable
+Engineering Instincts of the Animal.--How the Beaver Cuts Timber.--How
+the Dam is Constructed.--The Formation of "Reefs."--The Tail of
+the Beaver as a Means of Transportation.--Subterranean Passage
+to the Huts.--How Beavers are Hunted.--Young of the Beaver.--How
+to Trap the Beaver.--The Necessary Precautions.--Castoreum or Bark
+Stone.--Its Great Value in the Capture of the Beaver.--Various
+Methods of Setting the Trap.--How to Apply the Castoreum.--Use of
+the Sliding Pole.--Food of the Beaver.--Directions for Skinning the
+Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE MUSK-RAT.--General Description
+of the Animal.--Its Beaver-like Huts.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its
+Food.--The Flesh of the Musk-rat as an Article of Diet.--Description
+of the Hut.--Extensive Family of the Musk-Rat.--Its Home.--How the
+Musk-Rat swims beneath Unbroken Ice.--How it is Killed by being
+Driven Away from its Breath.--Spearing the Musk-Rat.--Construction
+of the Spear.--How to Trap the Musk-Rat.--Use of the Sliding
+Pole.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The Spring Pole.--Scent
+Baits.--Various Devices for Capturing the Musk-Rat.--The
+Barrel-Trap.--Remarkable Success of the Trap.--The Trail.--Skinning
+the Musk-Rat.--How to Stretch the Pelt.--THE OTTER.--Description
+of the Animal.--Beauty of its Fur.--How the "Otter Fur" of Fashion
+is Prepared.--Food of the Otter.--Its Natural Endowments for
+Swimming.--Habitation of the Otter.--Its Nest and Young.--The Track
+or "Seal" of the animal.--How the Otter is Hunted.--Its Fierceness
+when Attacked.--The Otter as a Pet.--Fishing for its Master.--The
+Otter "Slide."--How Utilized by the Trapper.--Playfulness of the
+Otter.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The
+Sliding Pole.--The Spring Pole.--Scent Baits.--How Applied.--Necessary
+Precautions.--How to Skin the Otter.--Directions for Stretching the
+Pelt.--THE MINK.--Its Form and Color.--Value of the Fur.--Habits
+of the Animal.--Its Diet.--Its Perpetual Greed.--Ease with which it
+may be Trapped.--Habitation of the Mink.--Its Nest and Young.--How
+to Trap the Mink.--Various Methods of Setting the Trap.--Baits.--The
+Sliding Pole.--"Medicine."--The Runways of the Mink.--How Utilized
+in Trapping.--The Trail.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the
+Mink.--How to Skin the Animal.--THE PINE MARTEN.--Description of
+the Animal.--Its Natural Characteristics.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its
+Wonderful Stealth and Activity.--Its "Bill of Fare."--Its Strange mode
+of Seizing Prey.--The Marten as a Pet.--Its Agreeable Odor.--Various
+Traps Used in the Capture of the Marten.--Baits for the Marten.--The
+Steel Trap.--Several Modes of Setting.--Directions for Skinning
+the Animal.--THE FISHER.--Its Form and Color.--Its Habitation and
+Young.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Methods.--The Spring
+Pole.--Baits for the Fisher.--Principal Devices Used in its
+Capture.--The Skin.--How
+[Page viii]
+Removed and Stretched.--THE SKUNK.--Its Fetid Stench.--Origin of
+the Odor.--Its Effect on Man and Beast.--"Premonitory Symptoms"
+of Attack.--Acrid Qualities of the Secretion.--Its Terrible Effect
+on the Eyes.--Interesting Adventure with a Skunk.--"Appearances are
+often Deceitful."--The Skunk as a Pet.--Color of the Animal.--Habits
+of the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Young.--"Alaska Sable."--How to
+Trap the Skunk.--Various Traps Used.--The Steel Trap.--Different
+Modes of Setting.--Baits.--The Dead Fall.--Modifications in its
+Construction.--The Twitch-up.--Its Peculiar Advantages for the
+Capture of the Skunk.--Chloride of Lime as Antidote.--Method of
+Eradicating the Odor from the Clothing.--Directions for Removing and
+Stretching the Skin.--THE WOLVERINE.--Its Desperate Fierceness and
+voracity.--Its General Characteristics.--Its Form and Color.--Food
+of the Wolverine.--Its Trap-Robbing Propensities.--How to Trap the
+Wolverine.--Baits.--Use of the "Medicine."--The Gun Trap and Dead
+Fall.--The Steel Trap.--Various Modes of Setting.--Home and Young
+of the Animal.--How the Skin should be Removed and Stretched.--THE
+OPOSSUM.--Description of the Animal.--Its Nature and Habits.--Its
+Home.--Remarkable Mode of Carrying its Young.--Nocturnal Habits of
+the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Especial Fondness for Persimmons.--Its
+Remarkable Tenacity as a Climber.--"Playing Possum."--How the Opossum
+is Hunted.--How Trapped.--Various Devices Used in its Capture.--Scent
+Baits.--How the Skin is Removed and Stretched.--THE RABBIT.--Wide-spread
+Distribution of the Various Species.--Their Remarkable Powers of
+Speed.--Nest of the Rabbit.--Its Prolific Offspring.--Food of the
+Rabbit.--Its Enemies.--Various Devices Used in Trapping the
+Animal.--Necessary Precautions in Skinning the Rabbit.--THE
+WOODCHUCK.--Description of the Animal.--Its Habits.--Its Burrows.--Its
+Food.--Toughness of the Skin.--Its Use.--Nest of the Animal.--The
+Woodchuck as Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--The Steel Trap.--The
+Spring Pole.--The Twitch-up.--How the Woodchuck is "Drowned Out."--The
+Turtle as a Ferret.--Smoking the Burrows.--Directions for Skinning
+the Animal.--THE GOPHER.--Its Burrows.--Its Food.--Remarkable Cheek
+Pouches of the Animal.--Their Use.--How to Trap the Animal.--How
+the Skin is Removed.--THE MOLE.--Its Varied Accomplishments.--Its
+Remarkable Dwellings.--Complicated Structure of the Habitation.--The
+Fury and Voracity of the Mole.--Peculiarities of Its Fur.--A Waistcoat
+of Mole Skins.--Odor of the Mole.--Mole Traps.--Various Species of the
+Mole.--The Mole of the Cape of Good Hope.--Marvellous Beauty of Its
+Fur.--SQUIRRELS.--Their General Peculiarities of Form and Habit.--Their
+Food.--Their Provident Instincts.--"Nutting" in Midwinter.--The
+Nest of the Squirrel.--Burrowing Squirrels.--The Various American
+Species.--The Grey Squirrel.--The Chipmunk.--The Chickaree.--The
+Flying Squirrel, &c.--How Squirrels are Trapped.--Various Traps
+Used in their Capture.--Removal of Skin.--THE DEER.--Difficulty
+of Hunting the Animal in Dry Seasons.--Various American Species
+of the Deer.--How the Deer is Trapped.--Peculiar Construction of
+the Trap.--Scent Bait for the Deer.--Various Methods of Setting
+the Trap.--Violence of the Deer when Trapped.--The Clog.--Dead
+Falls.--Food of the Deer.--Deer "Yards."--Natural Enemies of the
+Deer.--How the Deer is Hunted.--"Still Hunting."--The Deer's Acute
+Sense of Smell.--How to Detect the Direction of the Wind.--Natural
+Habits of the Deer.--"Night Hunting."--Luminosity of the Eyes of the
+Deer at Night.--Hunting the deer with dogs.--"Deer Licks."--How Salt
+is used in Hunting the Deer.--Hunting from a Scaffolding.--Peculiar
+Sight of the Deer.--"Salt Licks" used in Night Hunting.--Head
+Lantern.--How made.--How used.--The fiery Eyes of the Deer.--"Fox
+Fire" or Phosphorescent wood.--How used by the Hunter.--Seasons
+for Deer Hunting.--How to skin the Deer.--THE MOOSE.--Description
+of the animal.--Immense size of its Horns.--Moose yards.--Hunted
+on Snow shoes.--The dangers of Moose Hunting.--Exquisite sense of
+Smell.--How the Moose is Trapped.--Directions for removing the
+Skin of the Animal.--ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.--Description of the
+Animal.--Its enormous Horns.--Habits of the creature.--Its flesh as
+Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--THE BUFFALO.--Its Habits.--Its
+Food.--Buffalo-grass.--How the Animal is Hunted and Trapped.--Buffalo
+[Page ix]
+flesh as Food.--Buffalo skins.--THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE.--Description
+of the Animal.--Peculiarity of Horn.--How the creature is Hunted
+and Destroyed by the Indians.--Remarkable sense of Smell of the
+Animal.--Its Beauty and grace.--Flesh of the Antelope a Food.--How
+the Animal is Trapped.--Various Traps used in their Capture.--The
+Dead-fall.--Pit-fall.--How to remove the Hide of the Animal.--SHOOTING
+AND POISONING.--"Shot furs."--"Poisoned furs."--"Trapped furs."--Their
+relative Value in the Fur Market.--Effect of grazing shot on
+fur.--Effect of Poison on Fur.--Remarks on the use of
+Poison.--Strychnine.--Poisoning Wolves.--Recipe for mixing the
+Poison.--Poisoning the Bear.--How the Dose is Prepared.
+
+BOOK VII.
+
+CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS.
+
+Introductory Remarks.--"Amateur Trapping."--PLAN OF CAMPAIGN.--Selection
+of Trapping-ground.--Advantages of a Watered District.--Labor of
+transportation lightened by Boating.--Lakes, Ponds and Streams.--The
+Adirondacks and Alleghanies.--Remarks on the "Home Shanty."--Selection
+of Site for building.--Value of a good Axe.--Remarks on the Bark
+Shanty.--Its value in case of Storms.--Wise fore-sight.--Remarks on
+the Indian Birch-bark Canoe.--Dug-out and Bateau.--Commencement of
+Trapping Season.--Advantages of preliminary preparation.--Extensive
+route of the Professional Trapper.--Sixty pounds of Personal
+Luggage.--How the traps and provisions are distributed among the
+Trapping lines.--Use of the "Home Shanty."--"Keeping Shanty."--Necessity
+of its being Guarded.--Wolves and Bears as thieves.--Steel Traps
+considered.--Number used in a Professional Campaign.--Number for
+an Amateur Campaign.--Their Probable Cost.--The average size of
+Trap.--Dead-falls, Twitchups, &c., considered.--Requisite Tools for
+a Campaign.--A "House-wife" a valuable necessity.--"Cleanliness next
+to Godliness."--The Trappers' Light.--Comparative value of Lanterns
+and Candles.--The Trappers' Personal outfit.--The jack-knife.--The
+Pocket-Compass.--Necessity of preparing for Emergencies.--Shot
+guns and Rifles.--Both combined in the same weapon.--Oil for Fire
+Arms.--Fat of the Grouse Used on Fire Arms.--Fishing tackle.--The
+Trappers' portable stove.--The Stove versus The Open Fire.--The
+Trapper's Clothing.--The Material and Color.--Boots.--High-topped
+Boots.--Short Boots.--Their Relative Qualities.--Waterproof Boot
+Dressing.--Recipe.--The Trapping Season.--Hints on Trapping-lines.--The
+"Wheel" plan.--Mode of following the lines.--"Trap Robbers" or
+"Poachers."--How to guard against them.--Hiding furs.--How to store
+Traps from Season to Season.--Gnats and Mosquitoes.--The "Smudge."--How
+made.--FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS.--"Roughing it."--"A chance Chip
+for a Frying Pan."--A "happy medium" between two extremes.--Cosy
+and Comfortable living on a Campaign.--Portable Food.--Combined
+Nutriment and lightness in weight to be desired.--The Trappers'
+Culinary Outfit.--Indian meal as Food.--The Trappers' "Staff of
+Life."--Wheat flour.--Salt Pork.--Seasoning.--Pork Fritters a
+luxury.--Cooking Utensils.--The "Telescope" drinking cup.--Recipe
+for making Pork Fritters.--"Chop Sticks" à la "Chinee."--A Flat
+Chip as a Plate.--Boiled Mush.--Old "Stand by."--Recipe.--Fried
+Mush.--Indian meal Cakes.--Recipe.--Johnny Cake.--Recipe.--Hoe
+Cakes.--Recipe.--Fresh fish.--How to Cook fish in a most Delicious
+manner.--Prof. Blot, and Delmonico, out-done.--The "NE PLUS ULTRA" of
+delicacies.--All the sweet Juices of the Fish preserved.--Disadvantages
+of the ordinary method of cooking.--Partridge, Duck, Quail, Cooked
+deliciously.--Roasting unrivalled!--Hints on Broiling.--An extemporized
+Spider or Toaster.--Roasting on a spit.--Venison, Bear, and Moose Meat
+broiled in the best style.--Venison cutlets.--The Camp fire.--Usual mode
+[Page x]
+of building Fire.--How the Kettle is suspended.--"Luxuries"
+considered.--The Knapsack a desirable Acquisition.--Matches.--The Bottle
+Match-safe.--Waterproof Matches.--How made.--Lucifer Matches.--Recipe
+for Waterproof preparation.--The Pocket Sun Glass.--A necessary adjunct
+to a Trapper's Outfit.--Its Advantages in case of Emergency.--"Touch
+wood" or "Punk Tinder," valuable in lighting fires.--How to light Fires
+without matches or Sun glass.--How to light a fire without Matches,
+Sun Glass, Powder, or Percussion Caps.--A last Resort.--Matches best
+in the long run.--The Portable Camp Stove described.--Its accompanying
+Furniture.--The Combination Camp-knife.--Hint on Provisions.--Potatoes
+as food.--Beans.--"Self raising" Wheat flour.--Light Bread, Biscuit
+and Pancakes in Camp.--Various accessories.--Olive Oil for purpose
+of Frying.--Pork.--Indian meal.--Crackers.--Wheaten Grits.--Rice and
+Oatmeal.--Tea and Coffee.--Soups.--Liebig's Extract of Beef.--Canned
+Vegetables.--Lemonade.--Waterproof bags for provisions.--Painted
+bags.--Caution!--Waterproof preparation.--Air-tight jars for
+Butter.--Knapsack or Shoulder Basket.--Venison as food.--To preserve
+the overplus of meat.--"Jerked Venison" Recipe and Process.--Moose
+and Bear meat and Fish, similarly prepared.--How to protect provisions
+from Wolves.--The Moufflon and Prong-horn as food.--"Small game,"
+Squirrels, Rabbits, and Woodchucks.--"Skunk Meat" as a delicacy.--The
+Buffalo as food.--Grouse, the universal Food of Trappers and
+Hunters.--Various species of Grouse.--The Sage Cock.--The
+Ptarmigan.--How they are trapped by the Indians in the Hudson's
+Bay Country.--Waterfowl.--Sea and Inland Ducks.--Various species of
+Duck.--Mallard.--Muscovy.--Wigeon.--Merganser.--Canvass Back.--Teal,
+&c.--Wild Geese.--Fish as food.--Angling and Spearing.--Salmon
+Spearing in the North.--Description of the Salmon Spear used by
+the Indians.--Salmon Spearing at night.--Requisites of a good
+Spearsman.--Fishing through the Ice.--Cow's udder and Hogs liver as
+Bait.--Other Baits.--Assafoetida and Sweet Cicely as fish Baits.--Trout
+fishing with Tip-up's.--Pickerel fishing in Winter.--Pickerel Spearing
+through the Ice.--The Box Hut.--The "Fish Lantern" or Fish Trap.--Fish
+Attracted by light.--Light as Bait.--How the Fish Lantern is made and
+used.--THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.--Introductory remarks.--The Perils of
+a Life in the Wilderness.--A Shelter of some form a Necessity.--The
+Log Shanty.--Full directions for building.--Ingenious manner of
+constructing roof.--How the Chimney is built.--Spacious interior of
+the Shanty.--THE BARK SHANTY.--A Temporary structure.--Full directions
+for its construction.--Selection of building site.--TENTS.--Advantages
+of their use.--Various kinds of Tents.--The House Tent.--The Fly
+Tent.--The Shelter Tent.--Directions for making the Tent.--Tent
+Cloth.--How to render tents Water and Fire-resistant.--Valuable
+recipe.--BEDS AND BEDDING.--Perfect rest and comfort to the tired
+Trapper.--A portable Spring bed for the woods.--A Hammock bed.--Bed
+Clothes.--The Canton Flannel Bag.--Hammocks.--TENT CARPETING.--Spruce
+and Hemlock boughs as bedding.--How to cover the ground evenly.--The
+Rubber Blanket.
+
+BOOK VIII.
+
+THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.
+
+Warning to the Novice.--Winged Cannibals of the Woods.--INSECT
+OINTMENTS.--Mosquitoes and Gnats.--Their aversion to the scent
+of Pennyroyal.--Pennyroyal Ointment.--Recipe.--Mutton tallow
+Ointment.--Tar and Sweet Oil Liniment.--Recipe.--Its effect on the
+Complexion.--Invasions of Insects by night.--Their pertinacity and
+severity.--The experience of our Adirondack guide.--The bloodthirsty
+propensities of the Mosquito admirably depicted.--The "Smudge" Smoke
+versus Insect Bites.--"Punkeys" and "Midgets."--Their terrible
+voracity.--Painful effects of their Bites.--Pennyroyal an effective
+Antidote.--Depraved
+[Page xi]
+appetite of the mosquito.--A Warning to the Intemperate.--Use and abuse
+of Alcohol.--A Popular error corrected.--A substitute for Whiskey and
+Brandy.--Red Pepper Tea.--Its great value as a remedy in Illness.--The
+Mosquitoes' favorite Victim.--Result of the bite of the insect.--The
+Mosquito Head-Net.--Directions for making the Net.--Netting attachment
+for the Hat.--Portable Sun Shade or Hat brim.--Netting attachment
+for the Hat brim.--BOAT BUILDING.--A Boat of some kind a necessity
+to the Trapper.--The "Dug-Out" or Log-Canoe.--Requisite Tools for
+its Manufacture.--Selection of the Log.--Directions for making the
+boat.--Remarkable thinness to which they may be reduced.--Lightness
+of the boat.--How to gauge the thickness.--How to stop leaks.--THE
+INDIAN OR BIRCH BARK CANOE.--The Indian as a Canoe-maker.--His
+remarkable skill.--Perfection of the Indian made Canoe.--Description
+of the Canoe.--Capacity of the various sizes.--How to construct a
+Bark Canoe.--Selection of Bark.--How to prevent Leaks.--Material
+used by the Indians in sewing the Bark.--Advantages of the Birch
+Bark Canoe.--Basswood, Hemlock, and Spruce Bark Canoes.--A LIGHT
+HOME-MADE BOAT.--Selection of Boards.--Directions for making the
+Boat.--Caulking the seams.--Value of Pitch for waterproofing
+purposes.--How it should be applied.--THE SCOW.--How to construct the
+ordinary Flat-bottomed Boat.--The Mud-stick.--SNOW SHOES.--A necessity
+for winter travel.--The "Snow Shoe Race."--The mysteries of a Snow
+Shoe.--"Taming the Snow Shoe."--How to make the Snow Shoe.--Complicated
+Net-work.--Two methods of attaching the Net-work.--How the Snow
+Shoe is worn.--THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.--Its value to the
+Trapper.--Winter Coasting.--Great sport with the Toboggan.--How to
+make a Toboggan.--Selection of Boards.--How the Sledge is used.--CURING
+SKINS.--Importance of Curing Skins properly.--Valuable hints on Skinning
+Animals.--How to dry Skins.--How to dress Skins for Market.--Astringent
+preparations.--Recipe.--STRETCHERS.--How skins are stretched.--The Board
+Stretcher.--How it is made and used.--The Wedge Stretcher.--How made
+and used.--The Bow Stretcher.--The Hoop Stretcher.--TANNING SKINS.--To
+Tan with the hair on.--Preparation of Skin for Tanning.--Tanning
+Mixture.--Recipe.--Second Mixture.--Recipe.--Third Mixture and
+Recipe.--How the Skin is softened and finished.--HOW TO TAN MINK
+AND MUSKRAT SKINS.--Preparation of Skin.--Tanning Mixtures.--Various
+Recipes.--"Fleshing."--The Fleshing-knife.--Substitute for the
+Fleshing-knife.--HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF THE BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON,
+AND MARTEN.--Tanning Mixtures.--How to soften the Skin.--Simple
+Tanned Skin.--Recipe for removing the fur.--How to finish the
+Skin.--OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.--Some
+bits of History in connection with Furs.--Ancient use of Furs.--Furs
+a medium of Exchange.--Furs and Fashion.--Extravagance in Fur
+Costume.--Choice Furs as Badges of Rank.--Their use restricted to
+Royal Families.--The Early Fur Trade of Europe.--A Tribute paid
+in Furs.--Early History of the Fur Trade in America.--Origin of
+the Hudson's Bay Company.--Hostility of the French Canadian
+Traders.--Establishment of the North West Company.--Competition and
+War.--Consolidation of the two Companies.--Great sales of the Hudson's
+Bay Company.--Importance of the Fur Trade.--Cities founded by the
+enterprise of the Trapper.--St. Paul.--Montreal and Mackinaw.--Fortunes
+built up on Fur Traffic.--John Jacob Astor.--Mink and Muskrat
+Skins.--Their extensive use in America.--Estimated value of the
+annual yield of Raw Furs throughout the World.--Classification
+of Furs by American Dealers.--"Home" Furs.--"Shipping" Furs.--Table
+of Sales of Hudson's Bay Company, in 1873.--March Sale.--September
+Sale.--Price according to Quality.--Estimated average per Skin.--List
+of American "Shipping" Furs.--List of American "Home" Furs.--MARKET
+VALUE OF FUR SKINS.--Eccentricities of the Fur Market.--Demand
+governed by Fashion.--How Fashion runs the Fur Trade.--The Amateur
+Trapper and the Fur Trade.--Difficulty of a profitable disposal
+of Furs.--Advice to the Novice.--How to realize on the sale of
+Furs.--TABLE OF VALUES OF AMERICAN FUR SKINS.--A complete list of
+American Fur bearing Animals.--Various prices of Skins according
+to Quality.--USES OF AMERICAN FURS AT HOME AND ABROAD.--The Silver
+Fox.--Fifty Guineas for a Fur Skin.--Red Fox Fur.--Its
+[Page xii]
+use in Oriental Countries.--Beaver Fur.--Its various uses.--Raccoon
+Skins, a great Staple for Russia and Germany.--Bear Skins and their
+various uses.--Lynx, Fisher, and Marten Skins.--The Mink.--Use of its
+hair for Artists pencils.--Muskrat Skins.--Three millions annually
+exported to Germany alone.--Their extensive use among the American
+poorer classes.--Otter Fur.--Sleigh Robes from Wolf Skins.--Rabbit
+Fur.--Its use in the Manufacture of Hats.--Breeding Rabbits for
+their Fur.--The Wolverine.--Skunk Fur, dignified by the name of
+Alaska Sable.--Large shipments to Foreign Countries.--How the Fur
+of the Badger is used.--Opossum, Puma, and Wild Cat Fur.--Robes
+for the Fashionable.--Squirrel and Mole skins.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page xiii]
+[Illustration: ILLUSTRATIONS.]
+
+FULL PAGES.
+
+    1. Caught at last.
+    2. Traps for Large Game.
+    3. Snares or Noose Traps.
+    4. Traps for Feathered Game.
+    5. Miscellaneous Traps.
+    6. Household Traps.
+    7. Steel Traps, and the art of Trapping.
+    8. Almost Persuaded.--to face.
+    9. The Campaign.
+   10. Trapper's Miscellany.
+
+[Page xiv]
+ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.
+
+   11. "Preface".
+   12. Initial to Preface.
+   13. End piece to Preface.
+   14. "Contents".
+   15. "Illustrations".
+   16. Initial to Book I
+   17. Dead fall for large Animals.
+   18. Explanatory drawing of pieces.
+   19. The Gun Trap.
+   20. The Bow Trap
+   21.  "   "   "   arrangement of parts.
+   22.  "   "   "   Section.
+   23. Foot String Bow Trap.
+   24. The Down fall.
+   25. The Bear Trap.
+   26. End piece to Book I.
+   27. Initial to Book II.
+   28. Quail Nooses.
+   29. Hedge Nooses.
+   30. The Triangle Snare.
+   31. The Twitch-up.
+   32. Method of Setting.
+   33.    "    "    "    No. 2.
+   34.    "    "    "    No. 3.
+   35.    "    "    "    No. 4.
+   36.    "    "    "    No. 5.
+   37. The Poacher's Snare.
+   38. The Portable Snare.
+   39. The "Simplest" Snare.
+   40. Modification No. 2.
+   41.      "        "  3.
+   42. The Quail Snare.
+   43. The Box Snare.
+   44. The Double Box Snare.
+   45. The Old fashioned Springle.
+   46. The Improved Springle.
+   47. The Figure Four Ground Snare.
+   48. The Platform Snare.
+   49. End piece.
+   50. Initial to Book III.
+   51. The Brick Trap.
+   52. Method of Setting.
+   53. The Coop Trap.
+   54. The Bat fowling Net.
+   55. The Clap Net.
+   56. The Bird Whistle.
+   57. The Trap Cage.
+   58. Diagrams of Cage.
+   59. The Spring Net Trap.
+[Page xv]
+   60. Section of Spring Net Trap.
+   61. A Simpler Net Trap.
+   62. The Upright Net Trap.
+   63. Second Method    "
+   64. The Box Owl Trap.
+   65. The Box Bird Trap.
+   66. The Pendant Box Bird Trap.
+   67. The Hawk Trap.
+   68. The Wild Duck Net.
+   69. The Hook Trap.
+   70. The Fool's Cap Trap.
+   71. The Limed Twig.
+   72. Humming-bird Trap.
+   73. Initial to Book IV.
+   74. The Common Box Trap.
+   75. Two Modes of Setting.
+   76. Box Trap.
+   77. The Figure Four Trap.
+   78. Parts of     "
+   79. The "Double Ender".
+   80. The Self-Setting Trap.
+   81. The Dead fall.
+   82. Method No. 2.
+   83. The Garotte.
+   84. Arrangement of "Setting".
+   85. The Bow Garotte Trap.
+   86. A Fish Trap.
+   87. End Piece "Maternal advice".
+   88. Initial to Book V.
+   89. The Barrel Trap.
+   90. The Box Dead Trap.
+   91. The Board Flap.
+   92. The Box Pit-fall.
+   93. Diagram of   "
+   94. Cage Trap.
+   95. Initial to Book VI.
+   96. Steel Trap. No. (0) or Rat Trap.
+   97. Steel Trap. No. 1, or Muskrat Trap.
+   98.   "     "   No. 2, or Mink Trap.
+   99.   "     "   No. 2-1/2, or Fox Trap.
+  100.   "     "   No. 3, or Otter Trap.
+  101.   "     "   No. 4, or Beaver Trap.
+  102. "The Great Bear Tamer," Steel Trap.
+  103. Steel Trap No. 5, or Small Bear Trap.
+  104. Steel Trap set in pen.
+  105. The Spring Pole.
+  106. The Sliding pole.
+  107. The Grappling Iron.
+  108. The Wolf.
+  109. The Puma.
+  110. The Canada Lynx.
+[Page xvi]
+  111. The Wild Cat.
+  112. The Bear.
+  113. The Raccoon.
+  114. The Badger.
+  115. The Beaver.
+  116. The Otter.
+  117. The Mink.
+  118. The Marten.
+  119. The Skunk.
+  120. The Wolverine.
+  121. The Opossum.
+  122. The Squirrel.
+  123. The Moose.
+  124. Initial to Book VII.
+  125. Portable Drinking Cup.
+  126. The Home Shanty.
+  127. The Shelter tent.
+  128. The Trapper's Bed.
+  129. End Piece.
+  130. Initial to Book VIII.
+  131. Head Net.
+  132. Portable Hat-brim.
+  133. Hat-brim with netting attachment.
+  134. The Dug-out or Log Canoe.
+  135. The Birch-Bark Canoe.
+  136. A Light Home-made Boat.
+  137. Diagram view of Boat----.
+  138. The Snow Shoe.
+  139. The Toboggan or Indian Sledge.
+  140. The Board Stretcher.
+  141. The Wedge Stretcher.
+  142. The Bow Stretcher.
+  143. "The End".
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 15]
+[Illustration: TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME]
+
+[Page 17]
+BOOK I.
+
+TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.
+
+
+[Illustration: H]owever free our forests may be from the lurking
+dangers of a tropical jungle, they nevertheless shelter a few large
+and formidable beasts which are legitimate and deserving subjects
+of the Trapper's Art. Chief among them are the Puma, or Cougar,
+Bear, Lynx, Wolf and Wolverine.
+
+Although commonly taken in steel traps, as described respectively
+in a later portion of this work, these animals are nevertheless
+often captured by Deadfalls and other devices, which are well known
+to the professional Trapper, and which serve excellently in cases
+of emergency, or in the scarcity of steel traps.
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+THE DEAD-FALL.
+
+There are several varieties of this trap, some of which are described
+in other parts of this volume. In general construction they all
+bear a similarity, the methods of setting being slightly changed
+to suit the various game desired for capture. For large animals,
+and particularly the Bear, the trap is sprung by the pressure of
+the animal's foot, while reaching for the bait. Select some favorite
+haunt of the Bear, and proceed to construct a pen of large stakes.
+These should consist of young trees, or straight branches, about
+three inches in diameter, and should be of such a length as to
+reach a height of four or five feet when set in the ground, this
+being the required height of the pen. Its width should be about
+two and a half or three feet; its depth, four feet; and the top
+should be roofed over with cross pieces of timber, to prevent the
+[Page 18]
+bait from being taken from above. A straight log, about eight inches
+in diameter, and six feet in length should now be rolled against the
+opening of the pen, and hemmed in by two upright posts, one on each
+side, directly on a line with the sides of the enclosure. Another
+log, or tree trunk, of the same diameter, and about fifteen or twenty
+feet in length, should next be procured. Having this in readiness,
+we will now proceed to the construction of the other pieces. In
+order to understand the arrangement of these, we present a separate
+drawing of the parts as they appear when the trap is set (_a_).
+An upright post, is supplied at the upper end with a notch, having
+its flat face on the lower side. This post should be driven into
+the ground in the left hand back corner of the pen, and should
+be three feet or more in height. Another post (_b_) of similar
+dimensions, is provided with a notch at its upper end, the notch
+being reversed, _i. e._, having its flat side _uppermost_. This
+post should be set in the ground, _outside_ of the pen, on the
+right hand side and on a line with the first. A third post (_c_),
+is provided with a crotch on its upper end. This should be planted
+outside of the pen on the right hand side, and on a line with the
+front. The treadle piece consists of a forked branch, about three feet
+[Page 19]
+in length, supplied with a square board secured across its ends.
+At the junction of the forks, an augur hole is bored, into which a
+stiff stick about three feet in length is inserted. This is shown
+at (_h_). Two poles, (_d_) and (_e_), should next be procured, each
+about four feet in length. These complete the number of pieces,
+and the trap may then be set. Pass the pole (_d_) between the stakes
+of the pen, laying one end in the notch in the post (_a_), and
+holding the other beneath the notch in the upright (_b_). The second
+pole (_e_) should then be adjusted, one end being placed in the
+crotch post (_c_), and the other caught beneath the projecting
+end of the pole (_d_), as is fully illustrated in the engraving.
+The dead-log should then be rested on the front extremity of the
+pole last adjusted, thus effecting an equilibrium.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The treadle-piece should now be placed in position over a short
+stick of wood (_f_), with its platform raised in front, and the
+upright stick at the back secured beneath the edge of the latch
+pole (_d_).
+
+The best bait consists of _honey_, for which Bears have a remarkable
+fondness. It may be placed on the ground at the back part of the
+enclosure, or smeared on a piece of meat hung at the end of the
+pen. The dead-log should now be weighted by resting heavy timbers
+against its elevated end, as seen in the main drawing, after which
+the machine is ready for its deadly work.
+
+A Bear will never hesitate to risk his life where a feast of honey
+is in view, and the odd arrangement of timbers has no fears for
+him after that tempting bait has once been discovered. Passing
+beneath the suspended log, his heavy paw encounters the broad board
+on the treadle-piece, which immediately sinks with his weight. The
+upright pole at the back of the treadle is thus raised, forcing
+the latch-piece from the notch: this in turn sets free the side
+pole, and the heavy log is released falling with a crushing weight
+over the back of hapless Bruin.
+
+There are many other methods of setting the Dead-fall, several
+of which appear in another section of this book. The above is the
+one more commonly used for the capture of Bears, but the others are
+[Page 20]
+equally applicable and effective when enlarged to the proper size.
+
+In South America and other countries, where Lions, Tigers, Leopards,
+and Jaguars abound, these and other rude extempore traps are almost
+the only ones used, and are always very successful. The pit-fall
+often allures the Bengal Tiger to his destruction, and the Leopard
+often terminates his career at the muzzle of a rifle baited as
+seen in our page illustration. A gun thus arranged forms a most
+sure and deadly trap, and one which may be easily extemporized
+at a few moments' warning, in cases of emergency. The Puma of our
+northern forests, although by no means so terrible a foe as the
+Leopard, is still a blood-thirsty creature, and while he shuns the
+gaze of man with the utmost fear, he is nevertheless constantly
+on the alert to spring upon him unawares, either in an unguarded
+moment or during sleep. A hungry Puma, who excites suspicion by
+his stealthy prowling and ominous growl, may easily be led to his
+destruction at the muzzle of a gun, baited as we shall now describe.
+
+
+THE GUN TRAP.
+
+After a Puma has succeeded in capturing his prey, and has satisfied
+his appetite by devouring a portion of its carcass, he leaves the
+remainder for a second meal, and his early return to a second banquet
+is almost a matter of certainty. Where such a remnant of a bygone
+feast is found, the capture of the Cougar is an easy matter. Any
+carcass left in a neighborhood where Pumas are known to exist is
+sure to attract them, and day after day its bulk will be found to
+decrease until the bones only remain. By thus "baiting" a certain
+place and drawing the Pumas thither, the way is paved for their
+most certain destruction. The gun-trap is very simply constructed,
+and may be put in working order in a very few moments. The weapon
+may be a rifle or shot-gun. In the latter case it should be heavily
+loaded with buck-shot. The stock should be first firmly tied to
+some tree, or secured in a stout crotch driven into the ground,
+the barrel being similarly supported.
+
+The gun should be about three feet from the ground, and should
+be aimed at some near tree to avoid possible accident to a chance
+passer-by within its range. The gun should then be cocked, _but
+not capped_, due caution being always used, and the cap adjusted
+the very last thing after the trap is baited and set. Where a rifle
+[Page 21]
+is used, the cartridge should not be inserted until the last thing.
+
+It is next necessary to cut a small sapling about a foot or two
+in length. Its diameter should allow it to fit snugly inside the
+guard in front of the trigger, without springing the hammer. Its
+other end should now be supported by a very slight crotch, as shown
+in our illustration. Another sapling should next be procured, its
+length being sufficient to reach from the muzzle of the gun to
+the end of the first stick, and having a branch stub or hook on
+one end. The other extremity should be attached by a string to
+the tip of the first slick.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Now take a portion of the carcass and draw it firmly over the hook
+in the long stick. Prop the latter in such a position as that the
+bait shall hang directly in front of the muzzle. The crotch supporting
+the bait stick should be firmly implanted in the ground in order
+to hold the bait from being drawn to either side of the muzzle.
+
+The gun-trap is now set, and its merits may be tested. Before adjusting
+the cap the pieces should be tried several times to insure their
+perfect working. A slight pull on the bait from the front will
+draw the short stick forward. This immediately
+[Page 22]
+acts on the trigger and causes the hammer to snap. By a few trials,
+the sticks can be arranged so as to spring the trigger easily,
+and where a hair trigger is used, a mere touch on the bait will
+suffice to discharge the gun. When all is found to work perfectly,
+the trap should be surrounded by a rude pen of sticks and branches,
+extending two or three feet beyond the muzzle, in order to insure
+an approach directly in the aim of the gun. The cap should now be
+placed on the nipple, after which the deadly device may be left
+to do its certain work. The remaining portion of the carcass should
+be removed, and where the locality is likely to be frequented by
+other hunters or trappers, it is well to put up a "danger" signal
+to guard against accident. If desired two or three guns may be
+arranged like the spokes of a wheel, all aiming near the bait.
+Even with one gun the victim stands but little chance, but where
+two or three pour their contents into his body, his death is an
+absolute certainty.
+
+By fastening the gun three feet above ground the load is discharged
+upward into the mouth of its victim, and thus directly through
+the brain. Where two or more guns are used, it is advisable to
+aim at least one in such a direction as will send its charge into
+the _breast_ of the animal.
+
+The Indian Panther is very commonly taken by the gun trap, and
+even Lions are sometimes secured by the same device, only increased
+in power by a larger number of guns.
+
+There are several other methods of setting the gun trap. One way
+consists in attaching a string to the finger piece of the trigger,
+passing it back through a small staple or screw eye inserted in
+the under side of the stock for that purpose, and then drawing
+the string forward and attaching it to the top of the bait stick.
+This latter is stuck in the ground directly in front of the muzzle
+and the bait secured to its extremity. When the tempting morsel is
+grasped, the bait stick is drawn forward and the string pulled, the
+result of course being the discharge of the gun. By still another
+method, an elastic is passed through the screw eye in the stock and
+over the finger piece of the trigger, thus tending continually to
+draw it back and spring the hammer. To set the gun a short stick
+is inserted behind the finger piece, thus overcoming the power
+of the elastic. It should be very delicately adjusted, so that a
+mere touch will dislodge it. Its length should be about six inches,
+and to its other end the bait stick should be attached and arranged
+as first described. Although a rather dangerous trap to be set at
+random it is nevertheless often utilized and has brought many a
+[Page 23]
+dreaded marauder to his doom.
+
+The bear, lynx, and other large animals are sometimes taken by the
+gun trap, but it is most generally set for the Puma.
+
+
+THE BOW TRAP.
+
+This device does duty in India and Southern Asia, where it is known
+as the _tiger trap_.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It is easily constructed as follows: First cut a stout board five
+inches in width, two and a half feet in length and about two inches
+in thickness. Shave off one end to a point so that it may be driven
+into the ground. At the other extremity, in the middle of the board
+and about two inches from the edge, a hole one half an inch in
+diameter and three quarters of an inch in height, should be made;
+two auger holes, one directly above the other with the sides flatly
+trimmed, will answer perfectly. The arrow should next be constructed.
+This should be made of seasoned oak or ash, two feet in length,
+perfectly straight, smooth and round, and one third of an inch in
+[Page 24]
+diameter. One end should be notched for the bow string and vaned with
+thin feathers after the manner of ordinary arrows. The other extremity
+should be armed with a steel barb sharply pointed, and firmly riveted
+in place. Any blacksmith can forge such a tip; the shape of which is
+plainly seen in our engraving. The bow should consist of a piece of
+stout seasoned hickory, oak or ash four feet long, if such a bow is
+not at hand, a stout sapling may be used. The bow string may consist
+of cat-gut, or stout Indian twine.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Before setting the trap, it is advisable to attract the game to
+the spot selected as already alluded to in connection with the
+gun trap, and particularly so when the Puma is the victim sought.
+In our illustration we see the trap as it appears when set, and
+the same precaution of aiming at some tree should be exercised
+as advise with the gun trap. The bow should first be secured in
+place directly beneath and one eighth of an inch from the edge of
+the hole in the board, as seen at (_a_). Two large wire staples
+may be used for this purpose, being passed over the bow through
+holes in the board and clinched on the opposite side. The bend
+of the bow and length of string should now be determined, one end
+of the latter being attached to the tip of the bow and the other
+end supplied with a loop. The board should then be driven into the
+ground to the depth of about eight inches. We will next take up
+the arrow. Pass the barb through the hole in the board and adjust
+the notch over the bow-string, draw the arrow back and release the
+string. If the arrow slide easily and swiftly, through the board,
+keeping true to its aim, the contrivance is in perfect working
+order and is ready to be set. This is accomplished by the very
+simple and ingenious mechanical arrangement, shown at (_b_). On
+the under side of the arrow just behind the barb, a flat notch
+one eighth of an inch in depth and two and a half inches in length
+is cut, with rounded ends, as seen in the illustration. The bait
+stick should consist of a sapling about three feet in length, the
+large end being trimmed so
+[Page 25]
+as to fit in the hole over the arrow while the notch in the latter
+rests in the bottom of the aperture as seen in the illustration
+(_b_). The trap may then be set. Draw back the arrow, until the
+notch rests in the hole in the board. Insert the bait stick _very
+lightly_ above the arrow as shown at (_b_), propping it in place
+at the angle seen in the main drawing. The bait for a puma should
+consist of a portion of some carcass, or if for other animals,
+any of the baits given in our section on "trapping" may be used.
+In order to secure the bait firmly to the bait stick, a small hole
+and a peg at the side of the baited end will effectually prevent
+its removal and the trap will thus most surely be sprung. The prop
+which sustains the bait stick need be only a small crotch inserted
+a little to one side of the trap. The bow should now be surrounded
+by a wide pen, allowing room for the spring of the ends. The top of
+the enclosure should also be guarded by a few sticks or branches
+laid across. Directly in front of the trap and extending from it, a
+double row of rough stakes three feet high should be constructed,
+thus insuring an approach in the direct range of the arrow. Without
+this precaution the bait might be approached from the side, and the
+arrow pass beneath the head of the animal, whereas on the other
+hand it is sure to take effect in the neck or breast of its victim.
+Of course the success of this trap depends entirely upon the strength
+of the bow. When a large and powerful one is used its effect is
+almost surely fatal.
+
+Another form of the bow trap, much used in the capture of the tiger,
+forms the subject of our next illustration: no bait is here used.
+The trap is set at the side of the beaten path of the tiger and
+is sprung by the animal pressing against a string in passing. The
+bow is large and powerful and is secured to two upright posts about
+eight inches apart. The string is drawn back and a blunt stick is
+then inserted between the bow string and the inside centre of the
+bow, thus holding the latter in a bent position. A stout stick,
+with a flattened end is next inserted between the end of the blunt
+stick and the inside of the bow, the
+[Page 26]
+remaining part of the stick extending downwards, as our illustration
+shows. To the lower end of this stick a string is attached and
+carried across the path in the direct range of the arrow, being
+secured to a stake on the opposite side. The arrow is generally
+barbed with a steel or flint point, and wound with thread saturated
+with a deadly poison. This is now rested on the top of the bow
+between the upright parts, and its notch caught in the bow-string.
+Everything is then in readiness. The tiger soon steals along his
+beaten track. He comes nearer and nearer the trap until at last
+his breast presses the string. Twang, goes the bow and the arrow is
+imbedded in the flesh of its victim. He writhes for a few moments,
+until he is released from his torments by the certain death which
+follows the course of the poison through his veins.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The use of the poison is very dangerous: a mere scratch through the
+skin is likely to prove fatal, and the trapper is thus likely to
+prove his own victim. Poisoned arrows are little used by trappers;
+and the bow trap, when properly constructed, is sufficiently effective
+without the venom.
+
+
+THE DOWN-FALL.
+
+This is the famous harpoon trap, so commonly used in Africa for
+the capture of the hippopotamus. There is no reason why
+[Page 27]
+it may not be successfully employed in our own country for taking
+large game, or modified on a reduced scale for smaller animals.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The hippopotamus makes his daily rounds in regular beaten pathways;
+and the trapper, knowing this peculiarity, turns it to advantage.
+This is a common habit with many animals; and these "runways" are
+easily detected by the matted leaves and grass and the broken twigs.
+Over such a beaten track the harpoon-trap is suspended.
+
+The harpoon used by the native African trappers somewhat resembles
+a double-barbed arrowhead, and has a reflexed prong on the shaft
+just behind the barbs,--a sort of combination between a spear and
+a fish-hook. It is a terrible weapon; and, when once launched into
+the flesh of its victim, its withdrawal is impossible, on account
+of the reflexed barb. Any sharp steel shaft will answer the purpose
+of the harpoon; it should be eight or ten inches in length, and
+filed to a keen point. We will now construct the trap. The first
+requisite is a straight section of the branch of some tree. This
+should be about four inches in diameter, and four feet in length.
+Into one end of this beam the harpoon should be firmly imbedded,
+allowing the point to project about six inches. This beam should
+[Page 28]
+then be weighted with two large stones, attached firmly by a rope,
+about eighteen inches above the harpoon. At about six inches from
+the other end of the log a notch should be cut, having its flat
+side uppermost, as shown plainly in our illustration. The implement
+is now ready.
+
+Select some favorably situated tree, whose branches extend over
+the pathway chosen for the trap. By the aid of a rope secured to
+the log, and thrown over the limb, the weighted beam may be drawn
+up into the tree. While thus held by a person below, the trapper
+should climb the tree to complete operations. For this purpose, a
+smaller branch about three feet in length should be cut. One end
+should be flattened off on both sides, so as to fit in the notch
+in the beam; and the part which rests on the limb, as seen in the
+illustration, should also be flattened to prevent turning. A piece
+of stout Indian twine should next be fastened to the unwhittled end
+of the stick, which may then be adjusted in the notch of the harpoon
+beam, as seen in the engraving. The string may then be thrown down,
+and grasped by the companion below, who holds it firmly, after
+which the original rope may be removed. It will be noticed that the
+weight of the harpoon and accompaniments rests on the short arm of
+the lever which passes over the limb of the tree, and the tension on
+the string from the long arm is thus very slight. This precaution
+is necessary for the perfect working of the trap. To complete the
+contrivance, a small peg with a rounded notch should be cut, and
+driven into the ground directly plumb beneath the long end of the
+lever. It should be inserted into the earth only sufficiently to
+hold the string without pulling out, and the _side_ of the notch
+should face the path; its height should be about a foot. Into the
+notch the string should be passed, being afterwards drawn across
+the path and secured on the opposite side at the same height. The
+trap is now set; and woe to the unlucky quadruped that dares make
+too free with that string! A very slight pressure from either side
+is equally liable to slip the string from the notch, or loosen the
+peg from the ground; and the result is the same in either case,--down
+comes the weighted harpoon, carrying death and destruction to its
+victim.
+
+For large animals, this mode of setting will be found to work perfectly.
+When constructed on a smaller scale, it may be slightly modified.
+It will be noticed that, when the string is approached from one
+side, it is merely slipped out of the notch,--a slight pressure
+being sufficient to dislodge it,--while the pressure
+[Page 29]
+from the opposite direction must be strong enough to lift the peg
+out of the ground bodily. This is easily done when the peg is lightly
+inserted; but, to _insure_ success, even with _light_ pressure from
+either side, an additional precaution may be used, if desired.
+Instead of fastening the end of the string securely to some object
+on the further side of the path, it is well to provide the end of
+the cord with a ring or loop, which should be passed over a nail
+or short peg driven in some tree or branch, or fastened into an
+upright stake, firmly embedded into the ground. The nail should
+point in the opposite direction from the notch in the peg, and
+its angle should incline slightly toward the path. It will thus
+be seen that an approach from one side forces the string from the
+notch in the peg, while an opposite pressure slides the ring from
+the nail.
+
+This mode of setting is especially desirable for small animals,
+on account of its being more sensitive.
+
+Such a trap may be successfully used for the puma, bear, and the
+lynx. When constructed for smaller animals, the harpoon may be
+dispensed with, a large stone being equally effective in its
+death-dealing qualities
+
+
+THE BEAR TRAP.
+
+This trap is constructed after the idea of the old-fashioned box
+or rabbit trap, and has been the means of securing many a hungry
+bear, or even puma, whose voracity has exceeded its cunning. The
+lynx and wild-cat are also among its occasional victims; and inasmuch
+as its prisoners are taken alive great sport is often realized
+before the captive is brought under control.
+
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the affair. The sides
+are built of stout young tree-trunks, cut into sections and firmly
+driven into the ground close together. For a large animal,--a bear,
+for instance,--the enclosure should be about seven feet deep, two
+and a half feet wide, and four feet high. The top should be built
+in with the sides, after the manner of the log cabin, described
+in page (244.) The two posts at the entrance should be first set
+up. On the back side of each, near the end, a deep notch should be
+cut for the reception of the cross piece at the top. This should
+likewise be notched in a similar manner on both sides of each end,
+so as to fit singly into the notches in the uprights on the one
+side, and into the second pair of uprights
+[Page 30]
+on the other. These latter should next be inserted firmly into
+the ground, having been previously notched on both sides of their
+upper ends, as described for the cross piece. They may either be
+fixed in place and the cross piece sprung in between them at the
+top, or the latter may be held in the notches of the first pair,
+while the second are being inserted. Continue thus until the full
+length of the sides are reached, when the end may be closed by
+an upright wall of plain logs, either hammered into the ground,
+after the manner of the sides, or arranged one above another in
+notches between the two end uprights. The sliding door is next
+required. This should be large enough to cover the opening, and
+should be made of stout board slabs, firmly secured by cross pieces.
+It should be made to slide smoothly into grooves cut into perpendicular
+logs situated on each side of the opening, or may be arranged to
+slip easily between the flattened side of one log on each side
+and the front of the pen. Either way works well. In the latter
+an additional upright or short board should be inserted in the
+ground at the edges of the sliding door, to prevent the latter
+from being forced to either side by the efforts of the enclosed
+captive.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There are two or three ways of setting the trap, depending upon
+the desired game. For a bear it is arranged as in our illustration.
+An upright post, two feet in length, should be cut
+[Page 31]
+to an edge at one end, and wedged in between the logs at the top
+of the trap, near the middle. Across the top of this, a pole seven
+feet in length, should be rested; one end being attached by a loop,
+or secured in a notch in the sliding door, and the other supplied
+with a strong string about four feet in length, with a stick eight
+inches in length secured to its end. Through the centre log, in
+the back of the pen, and about two feet from the ground, an auger
+hole should be made. The bait stick with bait attached should be
+inserted through this hole from the inside, and the spindle caught
+on the outside between its projecting end and a nail driven in
+the adjoining upright. This principle is clearly illustrated on
+page 105 at (_a_), and, if desired, the method (_b_) may be used
+also. For a bear, the bait should consist of a piece of meat scented
+with burnt honey-comb. The odor of honey will tempt a bear into
+almost any trap, and even into such close quarters as the above
+he will enter without the slightest suspicion, when a feast of
+honey is in view.
+
+For the cougar, or puma, the best bait is a live lamb or a young
+pig, encaged in a small pen erected at the end of the trap. A fowl
+is also excellent. When thus baited, the setting of the trap is
+varied. The upright post at the top of the trap is inserted nearer
+the front, and the cross pole is stouter. The auger hole is bored
+in the top of the trap, through the centre of one of the logs, and
+about twenty inches from the back end of the trap. The spindle is
+dispensed with and the end of the string is provided with a large
+knot, which is lowered through the auger hole, and is prevented
+from slipping back by the insertion of a stick beneath. This stick
+should be about three feet in length, and of such a size at the
+end as will snugly fit into the auger hole. It should be inserted
+delicately, merely enough to hold the knot from slipping back, and
+so as to be easily released by a slight movement in any direction.
+
+This mode of setting is more fully detailed on page 52. As the
+puma steals in upon his prey he dislodges the stick, the lid falls,
+and he finds himself imprisoned with his intended victim. This
+trap is much used in India and Asia for the capture of the tiger,
+and the jaguar of South America is frequently entrapped by the
+same devices.
+
+
+THE PIT-FALL.
+
+The tiger is the scourge of India and Southern Asia and some sections
+of these countries are so terribly infested with
+[Page 32]
+the brutes that the inhabitants are kept in a continual state of
+terror by their depredations. Many methods are adopted by the natives
+for the destruction of the terrible creatures, some of which have
+already been described. The pit-fall is still another device by
+which this lurking marauder is often captured and destroyed. It
+sometimes consists of a mere pit covered and baited in the haunts of
+the tiger, or is constructed in a continuous deep ditch surrounding
+the habitations of the natives, and thus acting as a secure protection.
+The pit is about twelve feet deep and ten feet in width, and its
+outside edge is lined with a hedge five or six feet in height.
+As the fierce brute steals upon his intended prey, he nears the
+hedge and at one spring its highest branch is cleared. He reaches
+the earth only to find himself at the bottom of a deep pit, from
+which there is no hope of escape, and where he speedily becomes
+the merciless victim of a shower of deadly arrows and bullets.
+
+Happily we have no tigers in the United States, but the puma and
+the lynx are both fit subjects for the pit-fall. These animals
+cannot be said to exist in such numbers as to become a scourge
+and a stranger to the inhabitants of any neighborhood, and for
+this reason the "Moat" arrangement of the pit-fall is not required.
+The simple pit is often used, and when properly constructed and
+baited is a very _sure_ trap. The hole should be about twelve feet
+in depth and eight feet across, widening at the bottom. Its opening
+should be covered with slicks, earth and leaves, so arranged as
+to resemble the surroundings as much as possible, but so lightly
+adjusted as that they will easily give way at a slight pressure.
+One edge of the opening should now be closely built up with stakes
+firmly inserted into the ground, and so constructed as to form a
+small pen in the middle, in which to secure the bait, generally
+a live turkey, goose, or other fowl. The other three sides should
+also be hedged in by a single row of upright stakes three or four
+feet in height, and a few inches apart in order that the hungry
+puma may whet his appetite by glimpses between them.
+
+They should be firmly imbedded in the earth directly at the edge
+of the pit, and as far as possible trimmed of their branches on the
+inside. There will thus be a small patch of solid ground for the
+feet of the fowl, which should be tied by the leg in the enclosure.
+Our trap is now set, and if there is a puma in the neighborhood he
+will be sure to pay it a call and probably a _visit_.
+
+Spying his game, he uses every effort to reach it through the
+[Page 33]
+crevices between the stakes. The cries of the frightened fowl arouse
+and stimulate his appetite, and at last exasperated by his futile
+efforts to seize his victim, he springs over the fence of stakes
+and is lodged in the depths of the pit.
+
+The puma is very agile of movement, and unless the pit is at least
+twelve feet in depth there is danger of his springing out. Any
+projecting branch on the inside of the stakes affords a grasp for
+his ready paw, and any such branch, if within the reach of his
+leap, is sure to effect his escape. For this reason it is advisable
+to trim smoothly all the projections and leave no stub or knot
+hole by which he could gain the slightest hold. The construction
+of a pit-fall is a rather difficult operation on account of the
+digging which it necessitates. On this account it is not so much
+used as many other traps which are not only equally effective but
+much more easily constructed. The following is an example:--
+
+
+THE LOG COOP TRAP.
+
+This is commonly set for bears, although a deer or a puma becomes
+its frequent tenant. As its name implies it consists of a coop of
+logs, arranged after the principle of the Coop Trap described on
+page 67. The logs should be about eight feet in length, notched
+at the ends as described for the Log Cabin, page (244). Lay two
+of the logs parallel about seven feet apart. Across their ends in
+the notches, lay two others and continue building up in "cob-house"
+fashion until the height of about six feet is reached. The corners
+may be secured as they are laid by spikes, or they may be united
+afterward in mass by a rope firmly twisted about them from top to
+bottom. Logs should now be laid across the top of the coop and
+firmly secured by the spikes or rope knots. There are several ways
+of setting the trap. A modification of that described on page 67
+works very well, or an arrangement of spindle and bait stick, as
+in the Box Trap, page 105, may also be employed. In the latter
+case, the bait stick is either inserted between the logs at the
+back of the coop, or a hole is bored through one of them for this
+purpose. For this mode of setting, the coop should be constructed
+beneath some tree. It is set by means of a rope attached to the
+upper edge of one of its sides the rope being thrown over a limb
+of the tree and the loose end brought down and secured to the bait
+stick by a spindle, as described
+[Page 34]
+for the trap on page (195). The limb here acts in place of the
+tall end piece of the Box Trap, and by raising the coop up to such
+an angle as that it will be nearly poised, the setting may be made
+so delicate that a mere touch on the bait stick from the interior
+will dislodge the pieces and let fall the enclosure. The _simplest_
+mode of setting the trap is that embodied in the "snare" method on
+page (52). The rope is here provided with a knot, which must pass
+easily between the logs, or through the hole at the back of the
+coop, the length of rope being so arranged as that the coop shall
+be sufficiently raised where the knot projects into the interior. The
+introduction of the bait stick beneath the knot will thus prevent
+the latter from being drawn back, and thus our trap is set. The
+bait stick in any case should be about two feet in length; and with
+this leverage but a slight touch will be required to spring the
+pieces. In the latter method the limb of the tree is not necessary.
+A stout crotched stake driven into the ground about twenty feet,
+at the back of the coop, will answer every purpose, and the coop
+may be constructed wherever desired. This is a most excellent trap
+for large animals. It secures the game alive, and is thus often
+productive of most exciting sport. For the bear, the bait should
+consist of honey or raw meat. Full directions for baiting all kinds
+of American game are given under their respective heads in another
+part of this book. The Coop Trap may be constructed of any dimensions,
+from the small example on page (67) to the size above described.
+
+There are several other inventions commonly used for the capture
+of large animals in various parts of the globe, which would be
+of little avail in this country. Such is the African Corrall, or
+Hopo, by which whole herds of quaggas, elands, and buffalo are
+often destroyed. The trap consists of two hedges in the form of
+the letter V, which are very high and thick at the angle. Instead
+of the hedges being joined at this point, they are made to form a
+lane about two hundred feet in length, at the extremity of which
+a giant pit is formed. Trunks of trees are laid across the margins
+to prevent the animals from escaping. The opening of this pit is
+then covered with light reeds and small green boughs. The hedges
+often extend miles in length and are equally as far apart at these
+extremities. The tribe of hunters make a circle, three or four
+miles around the country adjacent to the opening, and gradually
+closing up are almost sure to enclose a large body of game, which,
+by shouts and skilfully hurled Javelins, they drive into the narrowing
+[Page 35]
+walls of the Hopo. The affrighted animals rush headlong to the gate
+presented at the end of the converging hedges and here plunge pell-mell
+into the pit, which is soon filled with a living mass. Some escape by
+running over the others; and the natives, wild with excitement,
+spear the poor animals with mad delight, while others of the brutes
+are smothered and crushed by the weight of their dead and dying
+companions. It is a most cruel and inhuman device, and its effects
+are sometimes appalling.
+
+
+THE NET TRAP.
+
+The lion and tiger are often taken in a net, which is secured to
+a frame work and suspended over a tempting bait. When the latter
+is touched the net falls, and the victim becomes entangled in the
+meshes and is securely caught. So far as we know, this mode of
+capture is never tried in this country. For the puma, lynx and
+wild-cat we fancy it might work admirably. The net should be of
+stout cord, and should be secured to a heavy square frame work,
+tilted as in the coop trap, already described. There should be
+plenty of slack in the net, and the looseness should be drawn flat
+over the framework in folds. The contrivance may be set by a large
+figure four trap, page (107), or the device described under the
+coop trap, page (67).
+
+The use of bird lime, for the capture of a tiger, certainly seems
+odd; but it is, nevertheless, a common mode of taking the animal,
+in the countries where this marauder abounds. The viscid, tenacious
+preparation known as bird lime is described on page (97) and is
+familiar to most of our readers. For the capture of birds it is
+unfailing, when once their delicate plumage comes in contact with
+it. Its effect on the tiger is surprising, and many a hunter has
+secured his striped foe by its aid. For this purpose, the cans
+of the preparation are arranged on elevated boards around a bed
+of leaves, in which the bait is placed. A small platform is so
+placed that the tiger shall step upon it in reaching for the bait,
+which, by the aid of strings, tilts the boards and tips off the
+cans. The lime spills on its victim and over the bed of leaves,
+and the tiger, in his endeavors to free himself from the sticky
+substance only succeeds in spreading it, and as he rolls and tumbles
+on the ground he soon becomes completely smeared and covered with
+the dry leaves, from which it is impossible for him to extricate
+himself.
+
+In his frantic rage he writhes upon the ground and becomes an easy
+[Page 36]
+prey to the hunter, who is generally on hand for the fray.
+
+Steel traps are much used for the capture of large game, and are
+made in sizes especially adapted for the purpose. These are described
+under the proper head, in another portion of this work; and the various
+baits and modes of setting required for the different animals, are
+clearly set forth under their respective titles of the latter,
+in the section "Art of Trapping."
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 37]
+[Illustration: SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 39]
+BOOK II.
+
+SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS.
+
+
+[Illustration: T]hese devices, although properly coming under the
+head of "traps," differ from them in the sense in which they are
+generally understood. A _snare_ naturally implies an _entanglement_;
+and for this reason the term is applied to those contrivances which
+secure their victims by the aid of strings or nooses. Inventions of
+this kind are among the most useful and successful to the professional
+Trapper, and their varieties are numerous. The "Twitch-up" will be
+recognized as a familiar example by many of our country readers,
+who may have seen it during their rambles, cautiously set in the
+low underbrush, awaiting its prey, or perhaps holding aloft its
+misguided victim.
+
+Snares are among the most interesting and ingenious of the trap
+kind, besides being the most sure and efficacious. They possess
+one advantage over all other traps; they can be made in the woods,
+and out of the commonest material.
+
+Let the young trapper supply himself with a small, sharp hatchet,
+and a stout, keen edged jack-knife,--these being the only tools
+required. He should also provide himself with a coil of fine brass
+"sucker wire," or a quantity of horse-hair nooses (which will be
+described further on), a small ball of tough twine and a pocket full
+of bait, such as apples, corn, oats and the like, of course depending
+upon the game he intends to trap. With these, his requirements are
+complete, and he has the material for a score of capital snares,
+which will do him much excellent service if properly constructed.
+Perhaps the most common of the noose traps is the ordinary
+
+
+QUAIL SNARE,
+
+which forms the subject of our first illustration. This consists
+of a series of nooses fastened to a strong twine or wire. They
+[Page 40]
+may be of any number, and should either consist of fine wire,
+horse-hair, or fine fish-line. If of wire, common brass "sucker
+wire," to be found in nearly all hardware establishments and country
+stores, is the best. Each noose should be about four inches in
+diameter. To make it, a small loop should be twisted on one end of
+the wire, and the other passed through it, thus making a slipping
+loop, which will be found to work very easily. Fifteen or twenty of
+these nooses should be made, after which they should be fastened
+either to a stout string or wire, at distances of about four inches
+from each other, as seen in our illustration. Each end of the long
+string supporting the nooses should then be fastened to a wooden
+peg. After selecting the ground, the pegs should be driven into
+the earth, drawing the string tightly, as seen in our illustration.
+The ground around the nooses should then be sprinkled with corn,
+oats, and the like, and the trap is set. As a general thing, it
+is advisable to set it in a neighborhood where quails are known
+to abound; and as they run all over the ground in search of food,
+they are sure to come across the bait strewn for them, and equally
+as certain to be caught and entangled in the nooses. The writer
+has known as many as six quails to be thus caught at a time, on
+a string of only twelve nooses. Partridges and woodcock will
+occasionally be found entangled in the snare, and it will oft-times
+happen that a rabbit will be secured by the device.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+HOOP NOOSES.
+
+This is a variation from the above, the noose being attached to
+a barrel hoop and the latter being fastened to two stout posts,
+which are firmly driven into the ground. By their scattering the
+bait inside the hoop, and adjusting the loops, the contrivance
+is complete.
+
+This is a very old and approved method.
+
+In the initial (T) at the head of this section we give also
+[Page 41]
+another suggestion for a noose trap. The cross pieces are tacked to
+the top of the upright, and a noose suspended from each end,--the
+bait adjusted as there seen.
+
+We have mentioned horse-hair nooses as being desirable, and they
+are commonly used; but, as it takes considerable time to make them,
+and the wire answering the purpose fully as well, we rather recommend
+the wire in preference. We will give a few simple directions, however,
+for the making of the horse-hair nooses, in case our readers might
+desire to use them instead.
+
+Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (we would
+recommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of the hairs
+and double it in the middle, hold the double between the thumb
+and fore-finger of the left hand, letting the two ends hang from
+the under side of the thumb, and keeping the hairs between the
+thumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. Now proceed to
+twist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, letting them
+twist together as the loop emerges on the upper side of the thumb.
+
+A little practice will overcome what at first seems very difficult.
+To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right distance
+of separation, and at the same time to twist them and draw the
+loop from between the fingers as they _are_ twisted, seems quite a
+complicated operation; and so it will be found at first. But when
+once mastered by practice, the twisting of five nooses a minute will
+be an easy matter. When the entire length of the hairs are twisted,
+the ends should be cut off even and then passed through the small
+loop at the folded end. The noose is then ready to be fastened
+to the main string of support. Horse-hair nooses are commonly used
+in nearly all snares as they are always to be had, and possess
+considerable strength. The fine brass wire is also extensively
+used, and the writer rather prefers it. It is very strong and slips
+easily, besides doing away with the trouble of twisting the loops,
+which to some might be a very difficult and tedious operation. We
+recommend the wire, and shall allude to it chiefly in the future,
+although the horse-hair may be substituted whenever desired.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is another modification of the foregoing quail-traps very
+commonly utilized by professional trappers of many countries. A
+low hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length small
+openings are left here and there, in which the nooses are placed,
+as in the accompanying engraving. The bait is strewn around on both
+sides of the hedge, and the grouse or other game, on its discovery,
+are almost sure to become entangled
+[Page 42]
+sooner or later. It is a well-known fact about these birds, that
+they will always seek to pass _under_ an object which comes in their
+way rather than fly over it; and although the hedge of this trap is
+only a foot or more in height, the birds will almost invariably run
+about until they find an opening, in preference to flying over it.
+It is owing to this peculiarity of habit that they are so easily
+taken by this method. Our illustration gives only a very short
+section of hedge; it may be extended to any length. The writer's
+experience with the hedge nooses has been very satisfactory, although
+never using a length greater than ten feet. It is well to set the
+hedge in the locality where quails or partridges are _known_ to
+run. And in setting, it is always desirable to build the hedge
+so that it will stretch over some open ground, and connect with
+two trees or bushes. Cedar boughs are excellent for the purpose,
+but any close brushwood will answer very well. Strew the ground
+with corn, oats and the like. A small quantity only is necessary.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is another noose trap commonly used abroad, and very little
+known here. It is a _tree_ trap, and goes by the name of the "triangle
+snare." It is not designed for the capture of any _particular_ kind
+of bird, although it often will secure fine and rare specimens.
+It consists of a sapling of wood, bent and tied in the form of a
+triangle, as shown in our illustration. This may be of any size,
+depending altogether on the bird the young trapper fancies to secure.
+A noose should be suspended in the triangle from its longest point.
+This noose should hang as indicated in our illustration, falling
+low enough to leave a space of an inch or so below it at the bottom
+of the triangle. The bait, consisting of a piece of an apple, a
+berry, insect, or piece of
+[Page 43]
+meat, according to the wish of the trapper, should then be suspended
+in the centre of the noose, after which the contrivance should be
+hung in some tree to await events. As they are so easily made and
+can be carried with so little trouble, it is an excellent plan to
+set out with a dozen or so, hanging them all in different parts of
+the woods; as, under circumstances of so many being set, scarcely
+a day will pass in which the trapper will not be rewarded by some
+one of the snares. The writer once knew of a case where a hawk
+was captured by one of these simple devices. In this case it had
+been set expressly, and the wire was extra strong. This trap, we
+believe, is quite common in parts of Germany, but, as far as we
+know, has not been utilized to any great extent in our country.
+We recommend it with great confidence.
+
+For the capture of woodchucks, muskrats and house-rats, the wire
+noose may also be adapted to good purpose. Many a woodchuck has been
+secured by the aid of this simple invention. It is only necessary
+to arrange the loop in the opening of the burrow, securing the wire
+to a stout stick, firmly driven into the ground. If properly "set"
+the animal, on emerging from the burrow, will become entangled, and
+by his efforts to disengage himself will only tighten the loop
+and thus render escape impossible. For rats, the noose should be
+attached to a nail, and the wire similarly arranged over the hole.
+
+The slipping-noose thus simply adapted becomes a most effective
+trap, and is always sure to hold its victim when once within its
+grasp, as every struggle only tends to draw the noose tighter. They
+are quick in their action, and produce death without much pain,
+and for this reason are to be commended.
+
+
+THE "TWITCH-UP."
+
+Our next example of the snare, we imagine, is one which all our
+boy-readers will immediately recognize; for it would certainly
+seem that any country boy who does not know the "Twitch-up" must
+be far behind the times, and live in a locality where there are
+no rabbits, quail, or even boys, besides himself, to suggest it.
+This snare is a _universal favorite_ among nearly all country boys,
+and our illustration will immediately bring it to mind. Its name,
+"The Twitch-up," conveys perfectly its method of working. Our
+illustration represents the trap as it appears when set. It has many
+varieties, of which we will select the best. They may be divided
+into two classes--those with upright nooses, and those in which
+[Page 44]
+the noose is spread on the ground, the latter of which are commonly
+called "ground snares." We will give our attention first to the
+"upright" style. These are rather entitled to preference on account
+of the harmless death which they inflict, invariably catching by
+the neck. Whereas the ground nooses as frequently lift their prey
+into the air by their feet, and thus prolong their suffering.
+Twitch-ups are the most successful and sure of any snares, and that,
+too, without being complicated. The writer, in his younger days,
+was quite an expert in trapping, and he can truthfully say that he
+found more enjoyment and had better success with these than with any
+other kinds of traps he employed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+They are generally set in thickets or woods where either rabbits
+or partridges are known to abound. Having arrived at his chosen
+trapping ground, the young trapper should first select some slender,
+elastic sapling; that of the hickory is the best, and is generally
+to be found in open woods--if not, some other kind will answer very
+well. It should be about five or six feet in length, (trimmed of
+its branches,) and in diameter need be no larger than an axe-handle
+or a broom-stick. When this is decided, some spot about five feet
+distant from the sapling should then be selected. The hatchet and
+knife will now come into excellent use, in cutting the sticks for
+the little inclosure shown
+[Page 45]
+in our drawing. This should be about eight or ten inches in diameter,
+and of about the same height. The sticks should be driven into
+the ground in a circle, leaving an open space of about six inches
+on one side. A stout switch as large as a man's little finger,
+and nearly two feet long, should then be cut and nicely sharpened
+at both ends. This should then be driven into the ground in the
+form of an arch, at the opening of the inclosure.
+
+We will now ask our readers to turn their attention to the next
+illustration, in order to understand what is to follow. This picture
+shows the method of setting the trap.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+After the arch is firmly fixed in its place, a short piece of stick
+should be cut, of a length corresponding to the height of the arch.
+To the middle of this stick the bait should be attached, being
+either tied to it or stuck on a plug driven into the stick, the
+latter being sharpened on one end. Next proceed to cut another
+stick, of about six inches in length; let this be flattened on
+one end. The wire noose should then be fastened to the opposite
+end. The noose in this case should be large enough to fill the
+opening of the arch. We will now go back to the sapling again.
+It should be bent down slightly, and a piece of the strong twine
+should be tied to its tip. Taking hold of the string, proceed to
+bend down the end of the sapling, in the direction of the inclosure,
+until it draws with a force strong enough to lift a rabbit if he
+were tied to the end of it. Thus holding it down with the string
+against the front of the inclosure, cut off the twine at the place
+where it crosses the top of the arch, as this will be the required
+length. It is now necessary to tie the end of this string to the
+same piece of wood and at the same place to which the noose was
+tied. When this is done the trap may be set as shown in the cut.
+The spring sapling should be bent as seen in the first illustration.
+The piece of wood holding the noose should be passed beneath the
+top of the arch, as far as it will go, with its long end pointing
+inside the inclosure. By now supporting the inside end with the
+bait stick, and carefully adjusting the noose so as to completely
+fill the arch, the trap will be set.
+
+[Page 46]
+In order to reach the bait, the rabbit or bird _must_ necessarily
+pass its head through the noose, after which, if the bait be scarcely
+_touched_, the animal's doom is sealed, and he is lifted into the
+air, generally suffering almost instant death. It is well known
+that in the case of a rabbit the neck is broken by a very slight
+blow, a strong snap of the finger being often sufficient. It is
+therefore safe to conclude that when thus suddenly caught and lifted
+by the noose, death must occur almost instantaneously from the
+same cause.
+
+It is not really necessary for success that the force of the sapling
+should be strong enough to lift the rabbit from the ground, as a
+mere strong tightening of the noose would be sufficient to cause
+strangulation and death. But we recommend the former method as
+being less painful and more rapid in its effects.
+
+If the young trapper should experience any difficulty in finding
+saplings of the right size, in the locality where he desires to
+set his traps, the difficulty may be easily mended by cutting the
+poles elsewhere, and carrying them to his trapping-ground, this
+answering the purpose equally well. They should be sharpened nicely
+on the large end, and firmly stuck into ground. The "Twitch-up"
+may be used for the capture of all varieties of game, and when
+set with the noose in the opening of a hollow tree, a stray coon
+will occasionally be entrapped.
+
+The next figure represents another method of constructing this
+trap, The picture explains itself. Instead of the arch, two notched
+sticks are driven into the ground, one on each side of the opening
+of the pen, The other piece should be of the shape shown in the
+figure, made either in one piece or in two pieces fastened together.
+They may all be constructed from twigs in the woods. Let the noose
+and draw-string now be fastened to the middle of the cross piece,
+and when set it will appear as in our figure. It will easily be
+seen that a slight pull on the bait will turn the cross piece from
+beneath the notches, and allow it to fly into the air.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 2]
+
+In our next instance the same principle is employed. The
+[Page 47]
+notched pegs are here driven in the back part of the pen, about
+five inches apart, with their notches towards the front. A forked
+bait stick of the shape shown is then procured. The draw-string
+should be attached near the end furthest from the fork. By now
+inserting the ends lightly beneath the notches in the pegs, at
+the same time letting the bait incline near the ground, the trap
+will be set on a very slight lift, as the bait will dislodge the
+pieces. Of course the noose must be arranged in the opening of the
+pen, as in the previous varieties. The bait stick in both cases
+should be set cautiously beneath the notches, as shown at (_a_),
+so that the slightest turn will cause it to roll out of position.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 3]
+
+A fourth method of snaring is shown in our next figure. In this
+instance the original arch is used, or else some circular opening
+constructed in the front of the pen. Inside, at the back part of
+the inclosure, a smaller arch is placed. Two sticks are then to
+be made similar to those mentioned in our first example of the
+"Twitch-up." Let the draw-string be tied to the end of one of these
+sticks; after which it should be passed under the inside arch, being
+brought out in front of it, and there supported by the bait-stick,
+as seen in our illustration. The noose should then be attached
+to the draw-string above the pen, and afterward brought down and
+arranged in front of the opening. The trap is then set, and will
+be found on trial to work admirably.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 4]
+
+One of the simplest as well as _surest_ of "Twitch-up" traps forms
+the subject of our next illustration. Like the foregoing varieties
+it is of course to be surrounded by its pen, and supplied with a
+circular opening or arch at one side, in which to hang the noose.
+It is constructed of three twigs. A simple crotch (_a_) should be
+firmly inserted in the ground at
+[Page 48]
+the back part of the pen; (_b_) the bait stick, consists of a straight
+twig, five or six inches in length, and should be attached to the
+draw-string at about half an inch from the large end; (_c_) is
+another forked stick with unequal arms, the long one being driven
+into the ground near the opening of the pen and a little to one side,
+letting the remaining arm point directly towards the crotch-stick
+at the back of the pen. The noose having been attached to the
+draw-string, the trap may now be set. Lower the bait stick and pass
+the large end under the crotch at the back of the pen, catching
+the baited end underneath the tip of the forked stick near the
+pen's opening. Arrange the noose in front of the entrance, and
+the thing is done. A mere touch on the bait will suffice to throw
+the pieces asunder. It is an excellent plan to sharpen the point
+of the forked stick (_c_) where it comes in contact with the bait
+stick, in order to make the bearing more slight, and consequently
+more easily thrown from its balance.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 5]
+
+
+THE POACHER'S' SNARE.
+
+Our next example represents one of the oldest and best snares in
+existence,--simple in construction, and almost infallible in its
+operations. It is the one in most common use among the poachers of
+England, hence its name. The pieces are three in number, and may
+be cut from pine wood, affording easy and profitable employment
+for the jack-knife during odd hours and rainy days, when time hangs
+heavily.
+
+The pieces are so simple in form and easy of construction that a
+sufficient number for fifty traps might be whittled in less than two
+hours, by any smart boy, who is at all "handy" with his jack-knife.
+
+If a few good broad shingles can be found, the work is even much
+easier,--mere splitting and notching being then all that is necessary.
+The bait stick should be about eight inches long, pointed at one
+end, and supplied with a notch in the other at about half an inch
+[Page 49]
+from the tip. The upright stick should be considerably shorter than
+the bait stick, and have a length of about ten inches, one end being
+nicely pointed, and the broad side of the other extremity supplied
+with a notch similar to the bait stick. About four inches from the
+blunt end, and on the narrow side of the stick, a square notch should
+be cut, sufficiently large to admit the bait stick loosely. The catch
+piece now remains. This should be about two and a-half inches in
+width, and bevelled off at each end into a flat edge. The shapes of
+the different pieces, together with their setting, will be readily
+understood by a look at our illustration.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A hundred of these pieces will make a small bundle, and may be easily
+carried by the young trapper, together with his other necessaries,
+as he starts off into the woods. He will thus be supplied with parts
+for thirty-three traps, all ready to be set, only requiring the
+stakes for the pens, which may be easily cut in the woods. Having
+selected a flexible sapling about five feet in length, and having
+stripped it of its branches, proceed to adjust the pieces. Take one
+of the upright sticks, and insert it firmly in the ground, with
+its upper notch facing the sapling, and at about four feet distant
+from it. Bend down the "springer," and by its force determine the
+required length for the draw-string attaching one end to the tip
+of the sapling, and the other near the end of a catch piece, the
+latter having its bevelled side uppermost. The wire noose should
+then be attached to the draw-string about six inches above the
+catch-piece. The pen should now be constructed as previously directed.
+Its entrance should be on the side _furthest_ from the springer,
+and should be so built as that the peg in the ground shall be at
+the back part of the enclosure. The pen being finished, the trap
+may be set.
+
+Insert the bait stick with bait attached into the square notch in
+the side of the upright peg; or, if desired, it may be adjusted by
+a pivot or nail through both sticks, as seen in our illustration,
+always letting the baited end project toward the
+[Page 50]
+opening. Draw down the catch piece, and fit its ends into the notches
+in the back of the upright peg and extremity of the bait-stick.
+By now pulling the latter slightly, and gently withdrawing the
+hand, the pieces will hold themselves together, only awaiting a
+lift at the bait to dislodge them. Adjust the wire loop at the
+opening of the pen, and you may leave the trap with the utmost
+confidence in its ability to take care of itself, and any unlucky
+intruder who tries to steal its property.
+
+Most of the snares which we shall describe are constructed from
+rough twigs, as these are always to be found in the woods, and
+with a little practice are easily cut and shaped into the desired
+forms. If desired, however, many of them may be whittled from pine
+wood like the foregoing, and the pieces carried in a bundle, ready
+for immediate use. In either case, whether made from the rough
+twigs or seasoned wood, it is a good plan to have them already
+prepared, and thus save time at the trapping ground when time is
+more valuable.
+
+
+THE PORTABLE SNARE.
+
+This is simply a modification of the snare just described, but
+possesses decided advantages over it in many respects. In the first
+place, it requires little or no protection in the shape of an enclosure.
+It can be set in trees or in swamps, or in short in _any_ place
+where an upright elastic branch can be found or adjusted. Like
+the foregoing, it is to be commended for its portability, fifty
+or sixty of the pieces making but a small parcel, and furnishing
+material for a score of traps. We call it the "portable snare"
+partly in order to distinguish it from the one just described,
+but chiefly because this particular variety is generally called
+by that name in countries where it is most used.
+
+It is composed of three pieces, all to be cut from a shingle or thin
+board. Let the first be about eight inches long, and three-quarters
+of an inch in width. This is for the upright. An oblong mortise
+should be cut through this piece, one inch in length, and beginning
+at about an inch from the end of the stick. Three inches from the
+other end, and on one of the broad sides of the stick, a notch
+should be made, corresponding in shape to that shown in our
+illustration. The bait stick should be four or five inches long,
+one end fitting easily into the mortise, where it should be secured
+[Page 51]
+by a wire or smooth nail driven through so as to form a hinge, on
+which it will work easily. On the upper side of this stick, and two
+inches distant from the pivot, a notch should be cut, similar to that
+in the upright. The catch piece should be about two inches in length,
+and bevelled off to a fiat edge at each end. This completes the pieces.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+To set the trap, it is only necessary to find some stout sapling,
+after which the upright stick may be attached to it close to the
+ground, by the aid of two pieces of stout iron wire, twisted firmly
+around both. It is well to cut slight grooves at each end of the
+upright for the reception of the wires, in order to prevent slipping.
+Tie a strong piece of twine around one
+[Page 52]
+end of the catch piece, knotting it on the beveled side. Cut the
+string about two feet in length, and attach the other end to the
+tip of the sapling. Adjust the bait stick on its pivot. By now
+lowering the catch piece, and lodging the knotted end beneath the
+notch in the upright and the other end in the notch on the bait
+stick, the pieces will appear as in our drawing. Care should be
+taken to set the catch pieces as slightly as possible in the notches,
+in order to insure sensitiveness. At about four inches from the
+catch piece, the wire noose should be attached and arranged in a
+circle directly around the bait. By now backing up the trap with
+a few sticks to prevent the bait from being approached from behind,
+the thing is complete, and woe to the misguided creature that dares
+to test its efficacy. By adjusting the drawstring so far as the
+upper end of the catch piece, the leverage on the bait stick is
+so slight as to require a mere touch to overcome it; and we may
+safely say that, when this trap is once baited, it will stay baited,
+so far as animal intruders are concerned, as we never yet have
+seen a rabbit or bird skilful enough to remove the tempting morsel
+before being summarily dealt with by the noose on guard duty.
+
+For portability, however, the following has no equal.
+
+
+THE "SIMPLEST" SNARE.
+
+This is one of the most ingenious and effective devices used in
+the art of trapping; and the principle is so simple and universal
+in its application to traps in general as to become a matter of
+great value to all who are at all interested in the subject. There
+is scarcely a trap of any kind which could not be set with the
+knotted string and bait stick, at the expense of a little thought
+and ingenuity. The principle is easily understood by a look at
+our engraving, which probably represents the _simplest_ twitch-up
+it is possible to construct. A stout wooden peg, having a hole the
+size of a lead pencil near the top, is driven firmly into the
+[Page 53]
+ground. The "knot" is made on the end of the draw-string, and passed
+through the hole in the peg from behind, being secured in place
+by the insertion of the bait stick in front. The latter should be
+about four inches long, and should be inserted very lightly,--merely
+enough to prevent the knot from slipping back. The noose should be
+fastened to the draw-string six or seven inches from the knot,
+and arranged in front of the bait at the opening of the pen, which
+should be constructed as previously directed. The peg should be
+about six inches long and the hole should be made with a 1-3 inch
+auger. Dozens of these pegs may be carried without inconvenience,
+and utilized in the same number of snares, in a very short time.
+We have already described the so-called "portable snare;" but, for
+portability, there is no noose-trap to be compared with the above.
+We give also a few other applications of the same principle.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 1]
+
+In the second example, a horizontal stick is used instead of the
+peg, the hole being made in its centre. Its ends are caught in
+notches in opposite sticks at the back part of the pen, and the
+noose arranged at the opening.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 2]
+
+Again, by a third method (see engraving next page), these notched
+sticks may be driven into the ground first, and a row of twigs
+continued on them on both sides, thus leaving a passageway between
+as represented in the illustration. A noose may then be set at
+each opening, with the bait in the middle; so that, at whichever
+side it is approached, the result is the same, besides affording
+a chance of securing two birds at the same time.
+
+
+THE QUAIL SNARE.
+
+That quails are sociable in their habits, and that they run together
+in broods in search of their food, is a fact well known
+[Page 54]
+to all sportsmen. A most excellent opportunity is thus afforded
+the hunter to secure several at one shot, and the same advantage
+may be gained by the trapper by specially arranging for it. For
+this purpose there is no invention more desirable or effective than
+the snare we next illustrate; and on account of the companionable
+habits of the quail, it is just as sure to catch six birds as one.
+The principle on which the trap works, is the same as in the three
+foregoing.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 3]
+
+Two notched pegs are first driven into the ground, about four inches
+apart, and the flat stick with the hole in the centre caught beneath
+these summits, as just described. It should be firmly secured;
+several nooses are next to be attached to the drawstring, and the
+trap set as already directed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The best bait consists of a "nub" of pop-corn, firmly impaled on
+the spindle, together with a few loose grains scattered on the ground
+right beneath it. The nooses should be arranged around the bait so
+as to touch or overlap each other, and the bait stick introduced
+into the hole a little more firmly than when set with one noose. The
+quail on reaching the trap all rush for the corn on the ground,
+and thus fill nearly if not all the nooses. When the supply here
+is exhausted, then united attacks are directed towards the "nub"
+on the bait stick, which soon becomes loosened: the knot is thus
+released and each noose will probably launch a victim in mid-air.
+This invention is original with the author of this work, so far
+as he knows; and it will be found the simplest as well as most
+effective quail snare in existence. Pop-corn is mentioned as bait
+partly on account of its being a favorite food with the quail;
+but particularly because the _pecking_ which it necessitates
+[Page 55]
+in order to remove the grains from the cob, is sure to spring the
+trap. If pop corn cannot be had, common Indian corn will answer
+very well. Oats or buckwheat may also be used, as the ground bait,
+if desired.
+
+
+THE BOX SNARE.
+
+This is a most unique device, and will well repay anyone who may
+desire to test its merits. It may be set for rabbits, coon, or
+feathered game, of course varying the size of the box accordingly. For
+ordinary purposes, it should be seven or eight inches square, leaving
+one end open. Place it in the position shown in the illustration
+and proceed to bore an auger hole in the top board, one and a half
+inches from the back edge.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is for the reception of the bait stick. Directly opposite
+to this and an inch from the front edge of the board a notched
+peg should be inserted. A gimlet hole should now be bored on a
+line between the auger hole and notched peg, and half an inch from
+the latter. A small stout screw eye should next be inserted at
+the rear edge of the board, and another one fastened to the back
+board, two inches from the bottom. With these simple preparations
+the box is complete. The bait stick should be about five or six
+inches long and supplied with a notch at the upper end. It should be
+of such a size as to pass easily into the auger hole, and provided
+with a peg inserted through it at about an inch and a half from
+the notched end, as shown in our illustration at (_a_). The object
+of this peg is to prevent the bait stick from being drawn entirely
+[Page 56]
+through the hole by the force of the pull from above. The catch piece
+should be only long enough to secure its ends beneath the notches in
+the peg at the top of the box and the projecting bait stick. It should
+be bevelled off at the tips as in the instances previously described,
+and attached to a piece of sucker wire, the point of attachment being
+at about an inch from the end of the stick. The wire should be about
+two and a half feet in length, the catch piece being fastened at about
+six inches from one end. To set this neat little invention it is
+first necessary to procure a strong and elastic switch about four
+feet in length, sharpen it slightly at the large end and insert
+it firmly in the screw eye at the back of the box, securing it in
+place at the top by strings through the screw eye at that place. By
+now attaching the short end of the wire to the tip of the sapling,
+inserting the bait stick from the inside of the box, and securing the
+catch piece in the notches, the other pieces will be in equilibrium,
+and the only remaining thing to be done is to pass the long end
+of the wire through the gimlet hole, and form it into a slipping
+noose which shall completely fill the opening of the box. In order
+to reach the bait the animal must pass his head through the noose,
+and it can be easily seen that the slightest pull on that tempting
+morsel will release the catch piece and tighten the wire around
+the neck of the intruder. Where the trap is small and the captured
+animal is large, it will sometimes happen that the box will be
+carried a distance of several feet before overpowering its victim;
+but it is sure to do it in the end if the spring powers of the
+sapling are strong and it is firmly secured to the box. If desired,
+the box may be tied to a neighboring stone or tree to prevent any
+such capers; but it will generally be found unnecessary, and a few
+minutes' search will always reveal it with its unlucky captive.
+
+We have described the box with its spring attached; but this is not
+a requisite, as it may be used with growing sapling when required.
+
+The same trap may be constructed of a pasteboard box and whalebone,
+for the capture of small birds, and used with good success. The
+size we have mentioned is adaptable for rabbits and animals of
+the same size, but is really larger than necessary for feathered
+game.
+
+
+THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.
+
+This is another embodiment of the same principle which has already
+been described, viz.--the knotted string. By many it
+[Page 57]
+is considered an improvement on the box snare just mentioned, owing
+to the possibility of its taking two victims at the same time. It
+may be set for rabbits, mink, or muskrat, and will be found very
+efficient.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It consists of a box about eight inches square, one foot in length,
+and open at both ends. In the centre of the top board a hole of the
+diameter of a lead pencil should be bored, and a smaller aperture
+also made in the middle of each end near the edge as seen in the
+accompanying engraving. The spring is next required. This should
+consist of an elastic switch or small pole, three or more feet
+in length. It should be inserted in a slanting auger hole, made
+through the middle of one of the side boards near the bottom at
+the angle shown at (_a_). Should the switch fit loosely it may be
+easily tightened by a small wedge driven in beside it. The bait
+stick (_b_) should be about four inches in length, and large enough
+to fit easily into the hole in the centre of the top board. Next
+procure a stout bit of cord about eight inches in length. Tie one
+[Page 58]
+end to the tip of the switch and provide the other with a large
+double knot. A second knot should then be made, about an inch and
+a half above the first. A piece of sucker wire is the next necessity.
+Its length should be about five feet, and its centre should be tied
+over the uppermost knot in the string. If the bait is now in readiness,
+the trap may be set. Bend down the switch until the end knot will pass
+through the hole in the centre of the board. When it appears in the
+inside of the box, it should then be secured by the insertion of the
+top of the bait stick, as shown at (_b_). This insertion need be only
+very slight, a sixteenth of an inch being all that is sufficient
+to prevent the knot from slipping back. The spring is thus held
+in the position seen in the drawing, and the loose ends of the
+sucker wire should then be passed downward through the small holes
+and arranged in nooses at both openings of the box. Our trap is
+now set, and the unlucky creature which attempts to move that bait
+from either approach, will bring its career to an untimely end.
+The bait stick may be so delicately adjusted as to need only the
+slightest touch to dislodge it. Such a fine setting is to be guarded
+against, however, being as likely to be sprung by a mouse as by
+a larger animal. The setting is easily regulated, being entirely
+dependent upon the slight or firm insertion of the bait stick.
+Among all the "modi operandi" in the construction of traps, there
+is scarcely one more simple than the principle embodied in this
+variety, and there is none more effective.
+
+The box snare already described may be set by the same method,
+and indeed the principle may be applied to almost any trap, from
+the simplest snare described on page (52) to the largest dead-fall.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+GROUND SNARES.
+
+THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is the variety of snare which has been in very common use
+for ages, and has always been the one solitary example of a noose
+trap which our "boys' books" have invariably pounced upon for
+illustration. For the capture of small birds it works very nicely;
+and as without it our list of traps would be incomplete, we will
+give an illustration of it as it appears when
+[Page 59]
+set and ready for its work. In constructing the affair it is first
+necessary to cut a flexible twig of willow or bramble about eighteen
+inches in length, and form it into a loop as seen at (_a_), securing
+the tips by a few circuits of string, and allowing the larger end
+to project an inch or more beyond the other. This loop, which is
+called the "spreader," should now be laid down flat; and on the
+upper side of the large end and about an inch from its tip, a notch
+should be cut as our illustration shows. The spring should next be
+procured, and should consist of a pliant, elastic switch, about
+four feet in length. A piece of fish line about two feet long,
+should now be fastened to the tip of the switch, and the loose
+end of the cord attached to a catch piece of the shape shown at
+(_b_). This catch may be about an inch and a half long, and should
+be whittled off to an edge on one end, the string being attached at
+about its centre. A slipping noose, made from strong horse hair,
+or piece of fine wire about two feet long, should now be fastened
+to the string about two inches above the catch. Having the switch
+thus prepared, it is ready to be inserted in the ground at the place
+selected for the trap. When this is done, another small flexible
+twig about a foot in length should cut, and being sharpened at
+both ends, should be inserted in the ground in the form of an arch
+(_c_), at about three feet distant from the spring, and having its
+broad side toward it. Insert the notch of the spreader exactly
+under the top of the arc, and note the spot where the curved end
+of the former touches the ground. At this point a peg (_d_) should
+be driven leaving a projecting portion of about two inches. The
+[Page 60]
+pieces are now ready to be adjusted. Pass the curved end of the
+spreader over the peg, bringing the notched end beneath the arc with
+the notch uppermost. Draw down the catch piece, and pass it beneath
+the arc from the opposite side letting the bevelled end catch in the
+notch in the spreader, the other end resting against the upper part
+of the arc. Arrange the slipping noose over the spreader as our
+drawing indicates, bringing it _inside_ the peg, as there shown, as
+otherwise it would catch upon it when the snare is sprung. Strew the
+bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or the like, _inside_ the
+spreader, and all is ready. Presently a little bird is seen to settle
+on the ground in the neighborhood of the trap; he spies the bait and
+hopping towards it, gradually makes bold enough to alight upon the
+spreader, which by his weight immediately falls, the catch is released,
+the switch flies up, and the unlucky bird dangles in the air by the
+legs. If the trapper is near he can easily release the struggling
+creature before it is at all injured, otherwise it will flutter
+itself into a speedy death.
+
+
+THE IMPROVED SPRINGLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The accompanying cut illustrates an improvement on the last mentioned
+trap, whereby it can be used for the capture of larger game, and
+with most excellent success. In place of the "spreader" a crotched
+stick is used, the crotch of which catches around the peg, the other
+end being supplied with a notch as in the case of the spreader.
+On the upper side of this stick a small pasteboard platform is
+tacked, over which and beneath which the bait is thrown. Instead
+of the arc, a stout crotch stick is substituted. The noose should
+be at least ten inches in diameter and constructed of sucker wire.
+It should be arranged on the ground around the bait and inside
+of the peg. When the snare is set, the crotched end of the bait
+stick will thus rest near the earth, the notched end only being
+lifted in order to reach the catch piece. It is well to insert
+a few small sticks inside the edge of the noose in order to keep
+it in correct position. If properly set, the quail or partridge
+[Page 61]
+in approaching the trap will have to step _inside_ the noose in order
+to reach the bait, and while thus regaling itself with a choice meal
+of oats, berries, or other delicacies, will be sure to press upon the
+bait stick either by pecking, or treading upon it, and will thus set
+the catch piece free, only to find itself secured by a grasp from
+which he will never escape alive. This is a very effectual snare;
+but on account of its securing its victim by the legs and thus
+torturing them to death, it is to be deprecated. We would recommend
+in preference, those varieties already described as being fully as
+successful, and far less cruel. They effect almost instant death,
+either by broken necks or strangulation, and are in this regard
+among the most humane traps on record.
+
+
+THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+For simplicity in construction there are few snare traps which
+can compare with this variety, although it is somewhat similar
+to those last mentioned, and like them, catches by the feet. The
+trap consists of three pieces. A catch piece about three inches
+long, a bait stick of about six inches, and a stout crotch of the
+proportionate size shown in our illustration, a glance at which
+will make the setting too clear to need description. Be careful
+that the bait stick is set _fine_ and rests _just beneath_ the
+_tip_ of the catch-piece so that a mere touch on the bait will
+release it. Arrange the noose as in the instance last described,
+and bait either as therein directed or with an apple or nubbin
+of corn, as our accompanying cut indicates. Always remembering
+that the noose should be sufficiently large to require the birds
+to step _inside_ of it in order to reach the bait.
+
+
+THE PLATFORM SNARE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This odd invention will be found to work capitally as a game trap,
+and the only extra requisite necessary consists of a slab or light
+board about seven inches wide, and a foot in length. Having selected
+the spot for the trap, proceed to cut a stiff
+[Page 62]
+switch about five feet in length, and having sharpened the larger
+end to a nice point, insert it firmly into the ground in a slanting
+direction as our drawing illustrates. Next bend down the tip of
+the sapling, and resting one end of the board on the ground, catch
+the tip of the switch against the other end, as our illustration
+also shows. A little experimenting will soon determine the right
+place for the board, after which two pegs should be driven in the
+ground at its edge to hold it against the pressure on the opposite
+end. This being done fasten a wire noose to the tip of the switch,
+after which the pen is the only thing required. This should be
+built of simple little twigs arranged around three sides of the
+board, leaving the front end open. To set the snare, lower the
+switch and raising the board slightly at the back end, catch the
+tip of the springer behind it, afterwards arranging the noose over
+the platform, and scattering the bait inside. If the trap has been
+constructed properly and set "fine" it will take but a very slight
+weight on the platform to lower it from its bearing, the weight of
+an ordinary bird being sufficient, and the springer thus released
+will fly forward either catching its victim by the neck or legs,
+as the case may be. It may sometimes be found necessary to cut
+a slight notch in the end of the springer to receive the board,
+but in every case it should be tried several times in order to
+be sure that it works sensitively.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 63]
+[Illustration: TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME]
+
+[Page 65]
+BOOK III.
+
+TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.
+
+[Illustration: A]mong the following will be found the various net
+and cage traps commonly used in the capture of winged game, besides
+several other unique devices in the shape of box traps, etc., many
+of which are original with the author of this work and appear in
+the present volume for the first time in book form. Commonest among
+bird-catching machines, is the well known invention of
+
+
+THE SIEVE TRAP.
+
+This device certainly possesses one great advantage:--_it is not
+complicated_. Any one possessed of a sieve and a piece of string
+can get up the trap at two minutes' notice, and provided he has
+patience, and can wait for his little bird, he is almost sure to
+be rewarded for his pains,--if he wait long enough. This of course
+depends upon circumstances: when the birds are plenty and are not
+shy, it is a common thing to secure three or four at once in a
+very few minutes, while at other times an hour's patient waiting
+is unrewarded.
+
+The trap consists only of a sieve tilted up on edge and thus propped
+in position by a slender stick. To this stick a string or thread is
+attached and the same carried to some near place of concealment,
+when the trapper may retire out of sight and watch for his "little
+bird." The ground beneath the sieve is strewn with bread crumbs,
+seed or other bait, and while the unsuspecting birds are enjoying
+their repast, the string is pulled and they are made prisoners.
+The sieve may be arranged with a spindle as described for the coop
+trap, page (68), and may thus be left to take care of itself. Where
+[Page 66]
+the birds are plenty and easily captured, the former method answers
+the purpose perfectly, but when tedious waiting is likely to ensue
+the self-acting trap is better.
+
+
+THE BRICK TRAP.
+
+This is a very old invention, and has always been one of the three
+or four stereotyped specimens of traps selected for publication in
+all Boys' Books. It is probably well known to most of our readers.
+
+Take four bricks, and arrange them on the ground, as seen in our
+engraving, letting them rest on their _narrow_ sides. If properly
+arranged, they should have a space between them, nearly as large
+as the broad surface of the brick. A small, forked twig of the
+shape shown in the separate drawing (_b_) having a small piece
+cut away from each side of the end, should then be procured. Next
+cut a slender stick, about four inches in length, bluntly pointed
+at each end. A small plug with a flat top should now be driven
+into the ground, inside the trap, about three inches from either
+of the end bricks and projecting about two inches from the ground.
+The trap is then ready to be set. Lay the flat end of the forked
+twig over the top of the plug, with the forks pointing forward,
+or toward the end of the enclosure nearest the plug. The pointed
+stick should then be adjusted, placing one end on the flat end of
+the fork, over the plug, and the other beneath the fifth brick,
+which should be rested upon it. The drawing (_b_) clearly shows
+the arrangement of the pieces. The bait, consisting of berries,
+bird-seed, or other similar substances should then be scattered
+on the ground on the inside of the enclosure. When the bird flies
+[Page 67]
+to the trap he will generally alight on the forked twig, which by
+his weight tilts to one side and dislodges the pieces, thus letting
+fall the sustained brick.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It is not intended to kill the bird, and when rightly constructed
+will capture it alive. Care is necessary in setting the topmost
+brick in such a position that it will fall aright, and completely
+cover the open space. This is a very simple and effectual little
+contrivance, and can be made with a _box_ instead of bricks, if
+desired. A piece of board may also be substituted for the top brick,
+and the enclosure beneath made larger by spreading the bricks further
+apart, thus making a more roomy dungeon for the captive bird.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+THE COOP TRAP.
+
+This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and large
+feathered game, and is used to a considerable extent by trappers
+throughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures its victims
+without harm and furnishes the additional advantage of good ventilation
+for the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary coop may be used in the
+construction of this trap, although the homely one we illustrate
+is most commonly employed on account of its simplicity and easy
+manufacture. It also does away with the troublesome necessity of
+carrying a coop to the trapping ground, as it can be made in a
+very few minutes with common rough hewn twigs by the clever use
+of the jack knife. The only remaining requisites consist of a few
+yards of very stout Indian twine, several small squares of brown
+pasteboard, a dozen tacks and a number of pieces of board five
+inches square, each one having a hole through its centre, as our
+engraving (_b_) indicates. Having these, the young trapper starts
+out with material sufficient for several coops, and if he is smart
+[Page 68]
+will find no difficulty in making and setting a dozen traps in a
+forenoon.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cut
+four stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen inches
+in length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knot
+come on the inside as our illustration (_a_) explains and leaving
+a loose length of about two feet of string from each corner. This
+forms the base of the coop. Next collect from a number of twigs of
+about the same thickness, and from them select two more corresponding
+in length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the base of the coop
+on the ground, and collected the strings inside proceed to lay
+the two selected sticks across the ends of the
+[Page 69]
+uppermost two of the square, and directly above the lower two.
+Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cut
+and laid across the ends of the last two, and directly above the
+second set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of equal
+size, one directly over the other. The next pair of sticks should
+be a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be placed a
+little inside the square. Let the next two be of the same size as
+the last and also rest a little inside of those beneath them, thus
+forming the commencement of the conical shape which our engraving
+presents. By thus continuing alternate layers of the two sticks
+cob-house fashion, each layer being closer than the one previous,
+the pyramid will be easily and quickly formed. After ten or a dozen
+sets have been laid in place, the arm should be introduced into
+the opening at the top, and the four cords drawn out, letting each
+one lay along its inside corner of the pyramid. Taking the strings
+loosely in the left hand and having the twigs in readiness, proceed
+to build up the sides until the opening at the top is reduced to
+only four or five inches across. The square board will now come
+into play. Pass the ends of the cords through the hole in its centre
+and rest the edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, taking
+care that it is the tip of the grain of the wood instead of its
+side, as otherwise it would be likely to crack from the pressure
+that is about to be brought upon it. Have ready a stout peg of
+hard wood, and laying it over the hole in the board, and between
+the strings, proceed to tie the latter as tightly as possible over
+it. By now turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightened
+and the various pieces of the coops will be drawn together with
+great firmness, in which state they may be secured by the aid of
+a tack driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shown
+at (_b_). Thus we have a neat and serviceable coop, which will
+last for many seasons. To _set_ the affair it is necessary to cut
+three sticks of the shapes shown in our illustration. The prop
+piece is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length from
+the tip to the base of the crotch. The spindle is another hooked
+twig of the same length: the bait piece is quite similar to the
+latter, only an inch shorter and supplied with a square notch at
+the tip. It is also slightly whittled off on the upper side to
+receive the square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold the bait
+and which may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of these
+twigs may be easily found in any thicket by a little practice in
+searching. In setting the trap, it is only necessary to raise up
+one side of the coop to the height of the prop stick, insert the
+[Page 70]
+short arm of the spindle through the fork and beneath the edge of
+the coop. While holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of the
+bait stick around the lower piece at the back of the coop, and
+pushing the end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the notch
+of the bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to be
+baited. The bait may consist of oats, wheat, "nannie berries" or the
+like, and should be strewn both on the platform and over the ground
+directly _beneath_ and around it. If properly set, a mere peck at the
+corn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the coop will fall
+over its captive. It is not an uncommon thing to find two or even
+three quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one fall, and after
+the first momentary fright is over, they seem to resign themselves
+to their fate and take to their confinement as naturally as if
+they had been brought up to it.
+
+The method of setting the coop trap above described is a great
+improvement on the old style of setting, and is an improvement
+original with the author of this work. In the old method a semi-circular
+hoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick above. The ends
+of the rattan are fastened to one of the lower back pieces of the
+coop, and the hoop is just large enough to fit inside the opening of
+the coop. This rattan rests just above the ground, and the spindle
+catches against its inside edge in place of the notch in the bait
+stick already described, the bait being scattered inside the hoop.
+When the bird approaches, it steps upon the rattan, and thus pressing
+it downward releases the spindle and the coop falls; but experience
+has shown the author that it does not always secure its intruders,
+but as often falls upon their backs and sends them off limping
+to regain their lost senses. By the author's improvement it will
+be seen that the whole body of the bird _must_ be _beneath_ the
+coop before the bait sticks can be reached and that when properly
+set it is absolutely certain to secure its victim. The author can
+recommend it as infallible, and he feels certain that anyone giving
+both methods a fair trial will discard the old method as worthless
+in comparison.
+
+
+THE BAT FOWLING NET.
+
+With English bird-catchers this contrivance is in common use, but
+so far as we know it has not been utilized to any great extent in
+this country. It is chiefly used at night by the aid of a lantern,
+and large numbers of sparrows and other birds are often secured.
+
+[Page 71]
+[Illustration]
+
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the net, which may be
+constructed as follows: Procure two light flexible poles, about
+eight feet in length; to the tip of each a cord should be attached,
+and the same secured to the middle of the pole, having drawn down
+the tip to the bend, shown in our engraving. The two bent ends
+should now be attached together by a hinge of leather. A piece
+of mosquito netting is next in order, and it should be of such
+a size as to cover the upper bent halves of the poles, as seen
+in the illustration--the bottom edge being turned up into a bag,
+about ten inches in depth. The contrivance is now complete, and is
+used as follows: Three persons are generally required, and a dark
+night is chosen. Hay stacks, evergreens, and thick bushes offer a
+favorite shelter to numerous small birds, and it is here that they
+are sought by the bird-hunters. A breezy night is preferable, as
+the birds perch low, and are not so easily startled by unusual
+sounds.
+
+Great caution, however, is used in the approach. One party holds
+the light, which is generally a _dark_ lantern, another takes the
+net, and the third arms himself with a switch with which to beat
+the bushes. The net is first held upright about a foot from the
+bush, and the light thrown upon the back of it. The bush is then
+moderately beaten, and the birds affrighted and bewildered fly against
+the net, which is instantly closed. The bird is thus captured, and
+when a full roost can be discovered a large number may be taken
+in a single night. The lantern should be closed while not in actual
+use, and everything should be done as quietly as possible. The
+dark lantern in itself is useful without the net. The light often
+so bewilders the bird that it flies directly in the face of the
+lantern and flutters to the ground, where it may be easily taken
+with the hand.
+
+
+[Page 72]
+THE CLAP NET.
+
+In Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, this trap is a common
+resource for the capture of wild birds of various kinds. It may be
+called a "decoy" trap, from the fact that "call birds" are generally
+used in connection with it. They are placed at distances around the
+trap, and attract the wild birds to the spot by their cries. These
+birds are especially trained for the purpose, but almost any tamed
+bird that chirps will attract its mates from the near neighborhood,
+and answer the purpose very well. Sometimes the "decoys" are entirely
+dispensed with, and the "bird whistle" used in their stead. This
+will be described hereafter, and inasmuch as the training of a
+"decoy" would be a rather difficult matter, we rather recommend
+the use of the bird whistle. The skill and absolute perfection of
+mimicry which is often attained by bird fanciers with the use
+of this little whistle, is something surprising.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+No matter what the species of bird--whether crow, bobolink, thrush
+or sparrow, the song or call is so exactly imitated as to deceive
+the most experienced naturalist, and even various birds themselves.
+Of course this requires practice, but even a tyro may soon learn
+to use the whistle to good advantage.
+
+The clap net commonly used, is a large contrivance--so large that
+several hundred pigeons are often caught at once. It is "sprung"
+by the bird-hunter, who lies in ambush watching for the game. The
+net is generally constructed as follows, and may be made smaller
+if desired:--
+
+[Page 73]
+Procure two pieces of strong thread netting, each about fifteen
+feet in length, and five feet in width. Four wooden rods one inch
+in thickness and five feet in length are next required. These may
+be constructed of pine, ash, or any other light wood, and one should
+be securely whipped to each end of the netting.
+
+Now by the aid of a gimlet or a red-hot iron, the size of a slate
+pencil, bore a hole through one end of every piece one inch from
+the tip, taking care that the ends selected lay on the same side of
+the net. The other extremities of the four poles should be supplied,
+each with a large screw eye. Four pegs are next in order--one of
+which is shown separate at (_P_). It should be about eight inches
+in length, and three inches in width, and an inch in thickness, and
+sharpened to a point at one end. The other end should be supplied
+with a notch two inches in depth and of such a width as will easily
+secure the perforated end of one of the poles already described.
+By the use of the gimlet or a red-hot nail, a hole should now be
+bored through the side of every peg across the centre of the notch
+for the reception of a wire pin or smooth nail.
+
+The nets may now be rolled up on the poles, and the trapper may
+thus easily carry them to his selected trapping ground. This should
+be smooth and free from stones and irregularities. Unroll the nets
+and spread them flatly on the ground, as seen in the illustration.
+Let the perforated ends of the poles be innermost, and allow a
+space of six feet between the inner edges of the nets. Draw the
+net flatly on the ground, and drive one of the notched pegs at
+each of the inside corners, securing the poles into the slots by
+the aid of the wire pins or nails. Next cut four stakes eight or
+ten inches long. The places for these may be seen by a look at
+our engraving. Each one should be inserted _five feet_ distant
+from the notched peg, and _exactly_ on a line with the _inside_
+edge of the net--one for each corner. They should slant from the
+net in every case. To each one of these stakes a stay-rope should
+be secured, and the other end passed through the screw eye of the
+nearest pole, drawing the string tightly, so as to stretch the net
+perfectly square. Next, take a piece of cord, about twenty feet
+in length, and fasten it across the ends of the net into the screw
+eyes in the poles. This is the loop to which the draw-string is
+attached, and either end of the net may be chosen for this purpose.
+To this loop and a _little one side of the middle_, the draw-string
+should be fastened. If secured exactly in the middle of the loop,
+the two nets will _strike_ when the draw-rope is pulled, whereas
+[Page 74]
+when adjusted a little to one side, the nearest net will move a
+trifle faster than the other, and they will overlap neatly and without
+striking--completely covering the ground between them. When the
+trap is spread the draw-rope should extend to some near shelter
+where the bird-catcher may secrete himself from view. Spreading the
+bait on the ground between the nets, and arranging his call birds
+at the proper distances, he awaits his opportunity of springing
+his nets. At the proper minute, when the ground is dotted with his
+game, he pulls the draw-string, and the birds are secured.
+
+Immense numbers of wild fowl are often captured in this way.
+
+The "bird whistle," already alluded to, is often used with good
+effect, it being only sufficient to attract the birds to such a
+proximity to the net as will enable them to spy the bait, after
+which their capture is easily effected.
+
+
+THE BIRD WHISTLE.
+
+This instrument, also known as the prairie whistle, is clearly
+shown in our illustration. It is constructed as follows: First,
+procure a piece of morocco or thin leather. From it cut a circular
+piece one inch and a quarter in diameter. Through the centre of
+this disc, cut a round hole, one-third of an inch in diameter. A
+semi-circular piece of tin is next required. It should be of the
+shape of an arc, as seen in our illustration; its width across
+the ends being about three-quarters of an inch, and its entire
+length being pierced with a row of fine holes. Next procure a piece
+of thin sheet India rubber or gold beater's skin. Cut a strip about
+an inch in length by half an inch in width, and lay one of its long
+edges directly across the opening in the leather disc. Fold the
+leather in half (over the rubber), and draw the latter tightly. Next
+lay on the arc of tin in the position shown in the illustration, and
+by the aid of a fine needle and thread sew it through the holes,
+including both leather and rubber in the stitches. When this is
+done, the whistle is complete. If the gold beater's skin is not
+attainable, a good substitute may be found in the thin outer membrane
+of the leaf of a tough onion or leak, the pulp being scraped away.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 75]
+To use the whistle, place it against the roof of the mouth, tin
+side up, and with the edge of the rubber towards the front. When
+once wet, it will adhere to the roof of the mouth, and by skilful
+blowing, it can be made to send forth a most surprising variety
+of sounds. The quack of the duck and the song of the thrush may
+be made to follow each other in a single breath, and the squeal
+of a pig or the neigh of a horse are equally within its scope. In
+short, there is scarcely any animal, whether bird or quadruped,
+the cry of which may not be easily imitated by a skilful use of
+the prairie whistle, or, indeed, as it might with propriety be
+called, the "menagerie whistle."
+
+
+THE WILD GOOSE TRAP.
+
+In our northern cold regions, where the wild geese and ptarmigan
+flock in immense numbers, this trap is commonly utilized. It consists
+merely of a large net fifty feet in length, and fifteen in width,
+arranged on a framework, and propped in a slanting position by
+two poles, after the manner of the sieve trap. It is generally
+set on the ice; and the trapper, after attaching his strings to
+the props, and sprinkling his bait at the foot of the net, retires
+to a distance to await his chances. Tame geese are often used as
+decoys, and sometimes the bird whistle already described is used
+for the same purpose. For the capture of the ptarmigan, the bait
+consists of a heap of gravel. It is hard to imagine a less tempting
+allurement, but as the food of the birds during the winter is sapless
+and hard, it becomes necessary for them to swallow a considerable
+amount of gravel to promote digestion. The great depth of the snow
+renders this commodity very scarce during the winter season; and
+the Indians, taking advantage of this fact, succeed in capturing
+immense numbers of the game in nets by the use of that simple
+allurement. The gravel is packed on the surface of a pile of snow,
+placed under the centre of the net, and the draw-string is carried
+to some neighboring shrubbery or place of concealment, where the
+trapper can always get at it without being seen by the birds under
+the net.
+
+When everything is thus prepared, the hunters start out into the
+adjacent woods and willows, and drive their game toward the nets.
+This is generally an easy matter, and, no sooner do the birds come
+in sight of the heap of gravel, than they fly towards it _en masse_,
+and the ground beneath the net is soon covered with the hungry game.
+[Page 76]
+The hunter then goes to the end of the line, and, with a sudden pull,
+hauls down the stakes: the net fans over the birds, and they are
+prisoners.
+
+Hundreds of ptarmigan are often thus caught by a single sweep of
+the net. The trap is simply arranged, and may be constructed on
+a reduced scale for smaller birds, if desired.
+
+
+THE TRAP CAGE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Among bird-catchers generally, this is the favorite and most universal
+trap; and, where a _decoy_ bird is used, it is particularly successful.
+The cage is arranged in two compartments,
+[Page 77]
+one above the other,--the lower one being occupied by the call-birds.
+The making of the cage requires considerable ingenuity and much
+patience; and, for the benefit of those who may desire to exercise
+that patient ingenuity, we will subjoin a few hints, which may
+help them along in their efforts. For an ordinary cage, the height
+should be about one foot, the broad sides the same, and the top
+and other two sides eight inches. First cut four corner uprights.
+These should be three-quarters of an inch square, and one foot in
+length. Next cut a bottom board of pine, twelve inches by eight
+inches, and one inch in thickness. From each of its corners, cut a
+small cube of the wood, exactly three-quarters of an inch square,
+thus leaving four notches, which will exactly receive the ends of
+the uprights, as seen at (_a_). Before adjusting these pieces,
+the four sides of the boards should be pierced with small holes,
+as is also shown in the diagram (_a_). These may be punched with a
+brad-awl, and should be about half an inch apart, and three-eighths
+of an inch from the edge of the board. Each one of the uprights
+may then be secured in place by two long brads, one being hammered
+each way into each side of the notch. Next proceed to cut four more
+of the square sticks. Two of these should be one foot in length,
+and the remaining two eight inches. The corners of these should
+now be neatly bevelled off, so as to fit after the manner of a
+picture-frame. They should then be attached to
+[Page 78]
+the upper ends of the uprights by a brad through the corner of
+each, as seen at (_b_), the dotted lines indicating the end of
+the upright beneath. These sticks should likewise be pierced with
+holes to correspond with those in the bottom board, and running
+up and down in the direction of the wires.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The middle tier of braces are next required. Two of these should be
+ten and a half inches in length, and the other two six and a-half,
+and the ends should be perfectly smooth. These should now be punched
+with holes corresponding with those above, after which they may
+be inserted between the uprights as seen in the engraving, and
+secured by a brad at each end.
+
+The trap door is shown separate at (_c_). The side sticks should
+be eight inches in length, and one-half an inch square, and the
+top and bottom sticks five inches in length. They should be set
+in _between_ the side sticks, and the lower one should be secured
+about half an inch above the lower ends of the uprights, as seen
+in the illustration. The holes should be made in the side pieces,
+and the wire run across from side to side, as shown. Annealed iron,
+or copper wire is best for this purpose. The door should now be
+pivoted or hinged at the top of the cage, between the long sides,
+in such a position as that the top end shall rest on one of the
+narrow upper edges of the cage. A stiff wire should be used for
+the hinge, being passed through the top pieces of the cage into the
+lower ends of the door pieces. The cage may now be wired throughout.
+This is an easy matter, if the holes are properly made. About thirty
+yards of the wire will be required: iron wire is generally used.
+It should be about the size of a hair-pin, and should work easily.
+Commence by passing it from the under side of the bottom board
+through one of the holes next to the corner. Pass the wire upward,
+through the centre braces, again upward through the top piece and
+across to the opposite broad side and corresponding hole. From
+this point it should pass downwards, through centre brace, and
+again through the bottom. Draw the wire tightly and passing it
+upward through the hole next to it, bring it over the top of the
+cage and around again to the bottom edge from which it started.
+Continue thus until the hinge of the door is reached; after which
+the wire should be passed up and down on the same side and thus
+carried around the small end of the cage until it finally meets
+at the door hinge on the opposite side. The two halves of the cage
+should now be separated by a grating of wire, as seen in the main
+[Page 79]
+illustration. This may be accomplished either by passing the wire
+from side to side, around the base of each upright wire, or an
+additional horizontal row of holes below the others may be punched
+for the purpose. The door through which the call-bird is introduced
+should next be made in the bottom section. There are two ways of
+doing this: one method consists in sawing a hole three inches square
+in the bottom board of the cage; and a cover consisting of a piece
+of tin is made to slide beneath the heads of four tacks, two of which
+are placed on each side of the opening. This form of door is perhaps
+the simplest of the two. The other is shown separate at (_f_),
+together with its mode of attachment.
+
+It consists of two side pieces of wood, about a third of an inch
+square, and three inches in length, and two shorter ones, two inches
+in length. These are arranged into a square framework by a board
+in each corner. Four holes are to be pierced in each side piece,
+at equal distances. Commencing at the top, the door should then
+be wired as directed for the cage. The lowest hole on each side
+should be left open for a separate piece of wire. The cage should
+now receive attention. The broad side is generally selected for
+the door. Find the seven centre wires and connect them across the
+middle by another horizontal bit of wire. This may be easily done
+with a pair of pincers, by compressing a loop at each end of the
+wire around the two which run perpendicularly at its ends. When this
+is performed the five intermediate wires should be cut off about
+a quarter of an inch below the horizontal wire, and the projecting
+tips looped back over the cross piece, and made fast by the pincers.
+The lower parts of the upright wires may now be cut off close to the
+board. We will now take up the door. Pass a piece of wire through
+the holes at the bottom, clap the door over the opening, and loop
+the ends of the projecting wire loosely around the upright wires
+at each side. This will allow the door to slide easily up and down.
+Another wire should now be interlaced downwards through the centre
+of the door, and bent into a ring at the top. Let the door rest
+on the bottom of the cage, and, while in this position, adjust
+the ring at the top around the central wire directly behind it.
+The door is then complete, and, if properly made, will look neat
+and work easily.
+
+The "trap" at the top of the cage is next in order. To complete
+this it is first necessary to interweave a _stiff_ wire loop, as
+seen at (_d_). The loop should extend on the _inside_ of the lower
+piece of the door and about two inches below it. The
+[Page 80]
+_spring_ power consists of a piece of stiff hoop-skirt wire, interwoven
+between the wires of the top of the cage, and those of the door,
+while the latter is shut. The force of this will be sufficient
+to bring down the door with a snap; and for further security a
+catch, such as is described in page (88), may be added if desired.
+
+The spindle is next required. This is shown at (_g_), and consists
+of a small perch of wood seven inches in length, and notched at
+each end. In setting the trap, the door should be raised as seen
+in the main illustration. One of the notches in the spindle should
+now be caught beneath the loop and the other around one of the
+central wires in the end of the cage. The bait, consisting of a
+berry, bird-seed, or what-not, may be either fastened to the spindle
+or placed beneath on the wires. The call-bird having been introduced,
+the trap may now be left to itself. If the call-bird is well trained
+it will not be many minutes before the birds of the neighborhood will
+be attracted to the spot by its cries. Ere long one less cautious
+than the rest will be seen to perch upon the top of the cage. He
+soon discovers the bait, and alighting upon the perch, throws it
+asunder, and in an instant the trap door closes over its captive.
+The cage is sometimes constructed double, having two compartments
+beneath for call-birds, and two traps above, in general resembling
+two of the single traps placed side by side. The decoy bird is not
+an absolute necessity to the success of the trap. Many birds are
+caught simply by the bait alone. The trap cage, when constructed
+on a larger scale, is often successfully employed in the capture
+of the owl. In this case it is baited with a live mouse or bird,
+and set during the evening in a conspicuous place. A trap working
+on this principle, being especially adapted to the capture of the
+owl, will be noticed hereafter.
+
+
+THE SPRING NET TRAP.
+
+Although slightly complicated in construction, our next illustration
+presents one of the prettiest bird traps on record, and may be
+made in the following manner, and by frequently referring to the
+picture, our explanation will be easily understood.
+
+The first step is to make or procure a low flat box, about fifteen
+inches long, by ten inches in width, with a depth of about two
+inches. Next fasten an interior box, of the same
+[Page 81]
+height, leaving a space of about three-quarters of an inch between
+them all round. A platform should now be made. Let it be of such a
+size that it will just fit in the interior box, with a very slight
+space all around its edge. It should then be pivoted in the upper
+part of this box by two small slender pins, one being driven through
+into its edge, at the centre of each end. Let it be sensitively
+poised. The next thing to be done, is to arrange the spindle and
+catch. The latter should consist of a tack or small bit of wood
+fastened on the middle of the platform, about an inch from one
+end, as seen both in the main illustration and in the diagram at
+(_b_).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The spindle should consist of a flat piece of wood, secured with
+a leather hinge to the edge of the outside box, directly opposite
+the catch. Let it be long enough to reach and barely hold itself
+beneath the catch. When thus in its position, two small plugs should
+next be driven into the edge of the inner box, one on each side of
+the spindle, thus holding it in place. A glance at our illustration
+makes this clear. The netting and "hoop" are next in order. The hoop
+should consist of an iron wire of the diameter of common telegraph
+wire.
+
+For a box of the size we have given, a length of about twenty-eight
+inches will be found to answer. Before making the hoop, however,
+its hinges should be ready for it. Two screw eyes, or staples of
+bent wire should be driven into the bottom of the box between the
+two walls, one in the exact middle of each side. The iron wire
+should now be bent so as to fit round and settle into the space
+between the boxes, letting each end rest
+[Page 82]
+over the screws in the bottom. It will be found that there will
+be enough surplus wire on each end to form into a loop with the
+pincers. These loops should be passed through the screws or rings
+already inserted, and then pinched together; the hinge will thus
+be made, and will appear as at (_c_). If properly done, they should
+allow the hoop to pass freely from one end of the box to the other,
+and settle easily between the partitions. If this hinge should
+prove too complicated for our young readers, they may resort to
+another method, which, although not so durable, will answer very
+well. In this case the wire will only need to reach to the exact
+middle of the long sides. No surplus being necessary, a length
+of twenty-six inches will be exactly right. On each end a short
+loop of tough Indian twine should be tied. By now fastening these
+loops to the bottom of the box with tacks, in the place of screws,
+it will form a hinge which will answer the purpose of the more
+complicated one.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The netting should consist of common mosquito gauze, or, if this
+cannot be had, any thin cloth may be substituted. It should be
+sewed fast to the iron wire, from hinge to hinge, and then, with
+the hoops resting in its groove, the netting should be drawn over the
+platform, and tacked to the bottom of the groove, on its remaining
+half. It should rest loosely over the platform to allow plenty of
+space for the bird.
+
+But one more addition, and the trap is finished. We have mentioned
+the use of elastics in other varieties: they are of equal use here,
+and should be attached to the hoop as seen at (_a_) in the section
+drawing, the remaining ends being fastened to the bottom of the
+groove, as there indicated. These elastics should be placed on
+both sides, and stretched to such a tension as will draw the hoop
+quickly from one side to the other.
+
+It will now be easy to set the trap. Draw the hoop back to the
+opposite end, tucking the netting into the groove; lower the spindle
+over it, resting it between the two little plugs, and securing
+its end beneath the catch on the platform. If the bait,
+[Page 83]
+consisting of bread-crumbs, berries, insects, or the like, be now
+sprinkled on the platform, the trap is ready for its feathered
+victim. It will easily be seen that the slightest weight on _either_
+side of this poised platform will throw the catch from the end of
+the spindle, and release the hoop and the platform in an instant
+is covered by the net, capturing whatever unlucky little bird may
+have chanced to jump upon it. This is a very pretty little trap,
+and will well repay the trouble of making it.
+
+
+A SIMPLER NET TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Much ingenuity has been displayed in the construction of bird traps
+of various kinds, but often the ingenuity has been misplaced, and
+the result has been so complicated as to mar its usefulness for
+practical purposes. The examples of net traps presented in this
+volume are so simple that the merest tyro can readily understand
+them. What can be more so than the present example, and yet it
+is as sure in its effect, and _surer_ than those other varieties
+of more complicated construction. One necessary element in a trap
+of any kind is, that the bearings are slight and that they spring
+easily. To obtain this requisite it is necessary to overcome friction
+as much as possible, using only a small number of pieces, and having
+as few joints and hinges only as are absolutely necessary. The present
+variety possesses advantages on this account. It is constructed
+somewhat on the principle of the ordinary steel trap, and also
+resembles in other respects the one we have just described, although
+much simpler. We give only a section drawing, as this will be
+sufficient. The long side of a flat board of about eight by sixteen
+inches is shown at (_a_); (_b_) indicates the loops of a bent wire,
+to which the netting is attached, as in the trap just described,
+[Page 84]
+the loops being fastened to the board as in the other variety;
+(_g_) consists of a small bit of wood an inch or so in length and
+half an inch in width. It should be tacked on to the middle of
+the one end of the board and project about a half inch above the
+surface. To the top of this the spindle (_c_) should be attached
+by a leather or staple hinge. The spindle should be of light pine,
+five inches in length and a quarter of an inch square, bevelled;
+on the under side of one end (_d_) is the catch or bait piece,
+and should be whittled out of a shingle or pine stick of the shape
+shown, the width being about a half an inch or less. One side should
+be supplied with a slight notch for the reception of the spindle,
+and the other should project out two or three inches, being covered
+on the top with a little platform of pasteboard, tin, or thin wood
+either glued or tacked in place. To attach this piece to the main
+board, two small wire staples may be used, one being inserted into
+the bottom end of the piece and the other being hooked through
+it, and afterward tacked to the bottom of the trap, thus forming
+a loop hinge. Another method is to make a hole through the lower
+tip of the bait piece by the aid of a red-hot wire, as seen at
+(_d_), afterwards inserting a pin and overlapping its ends with
+two staples driven into the bottom board, as shown at (_e_). In
+our last mentioned net trap the spring power consisted of rubber
+elastic, and the same may be used in this case, if desired, but by
+way of variety we here introduce another form of spring which may
+be successfully employed in the construction of traps of various
+kinds. It is shown at (_o_) and consists merely of a piece of tempered
+hoop iron, so bent as to act with an upward pressure. It should be
+about three inches long by half an inch wide. About three-quarters
+of an inch should be allowed for the two screws by which it is to
+be attached to the board. The rest should be bent upward and thus
+tempered by first heating almost to redness, and then cooling in
+cold water.
+
+One of these springs should be fastened to the board on each side,
+directly under the wire and quite near the hinge, in the position
+shown in the main drawing. Now draw back the net, lower the spindle
+and catch its extremity in the notch of the bait piece, and the trap
+is set as in our illustration. Sprinkle the bait on the platform,
+and lay the machine on the ground where birds are known to frequent;
+and it is only a matter of a few hours or perhaps minutes, before it
+will prove its efficacy. In order to prevent the bird from raising
+the wire and thereby escaping, it is well to fasten a little tin
+[Page 85]
+catch (_f_) at the end of the board. This will spring over the wire
+and hold it in its place.
+
+
+THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.
+
+The following is another novelty in the way of a bird-trap, somewhat
+similar to the one we have just described, in its manner of working.
+
+Procure two pieces of board about a foot square. Nail one to the
+edge of the other, as represented in our engraving. A stout wire
+is the next requisite. It should be about thirty inches long, and
+bent either into a curve or into two corners, making three equal
+sides. Each end of the wire should then be bent into a very small
+loop for the hinge. On to this wire the netting should then be
+secured as in the two previous examples, after which the ends of
+the wire may be tied with string or hinged on wire staples into
+the angle of the two boards, as seen in our illustration. Allow
+the wire now to lie flat on the bottom board, and then proceed
+to tack the netting around the edges of the upright board. Two
+elastics should next be fastened to the wire on each side, securing
+their loose ends to the bottom of the trap. They should be tightly
+drawn so as to bring the wire down with a snap. The spindle of
+this trap should be about eight or nine inches long, square and
+slender,--the lower end being flattened, and the upper end secured
+to the top edge of the upright board by a hinge of leather or string.
+An excellent hinge may be made with a piece of leather an inch
+and a half long, by half an inch in width, one half of the length
+being tied around the end of the spindle, and the other tacked
+on to the upper edge of the board.
+
+The platform is given by itself at (_a_) in the same picture. It
+may be made of very thin wood--cigar box wood, for instance, or
+even thick pasteboard. It consists of three pieces. The piece which
+is hinged into the angle of the boards should be about three inches
+in length; the platform piece ought not to be more than four inches
+square, and the upright piece only long enough to reach the tip of
+the spindle when the platform is raised, as shown in our engraving.
+The hinge piece should be cut to an edge on that end where the
+leather is fastened, the opposite end being bevelled off in order
+that the platform may rest and be tacked or glued firmly upon it.
+The diagram (_a_) will make this all very clear.
+
+When the platform is all made and fastened in its place, the
+[Page 86]
+trap may be set. Draw the hoop back as far as possible, and lower
+the spindle over its edge, catching it behind the upright stick on
+the platform. If the trap is properly constructed, the pressure
+of the spindle on the platform will suffice to hold it up as seen
+in our illustration. The upright stick on the back of the platform
+should never be more than an inch and a half from the back of the
+trap. If need be, a slight notch may be made in the end of the
+spindle and a small tack driven into the back of the upright stick
+to correspond to it. By thus fitting the notch under the head of the
+tack, it will be sure to hold the platform in the right position.
+But it should be carefully tested before setting, to see that it
+springs easily.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When thus set sprinkle the bait on the platform, scattering a little
+also on the bottom of the trap and on the ground directly around it.
+The little birds will soon spy the tempting morsels, and alighting
+on the trap are misled, and the slightest peck or pressure on the
+platform where the bait is most bounteously spread brings down the
+wire and net with a _snap_, and the little creature is secured
+without harm.
+
+[Illustration: Method 2.]
+
+Our next illustration shows another method of constructing the platform.
+It should be about three or four inches square,
+[Page 87]
+and on the middle of one of its edges the upright catch piece should
+be fastened. This piece, as will be seen in our engraving, should
+be cut spreading at the bottom so as to admit of being secured to
+the platform by two brads, the tip being cut to a point. The total
+length of this piece should not be over two and a half inches. When
+tacked in place, a third brad should be inserted between the other
+two and exactly in the centre of the side of the platform. This
+latter brad is to act as the pivot, or hinge, and should project
+about a quarter of an inch, as seen at (_a_). On the opposite edge
+of the platform another larger brad should be driven, having its
+end filed to a blunt point, as in (_b_). If the filing would be
+too tedious, a plug of hard wood of the required shape would answer
+every purpose. The upright props which support the platform should
+be cut of thin wood. Let one be an inch and a half long and half
+an inch wide, the other being an inch in length. Each should have
+one end whittled to a point, which will admit of its being inserted
+in a gimlet hole in the bottom of the trap. These gimlet holes
+should be made at least half an inch in depth. Make the first at
+about an inch or so from the back of the trap. Into this insert
+the shorter pieces, broadside front. Lay the pivot brad of the
+platform on the top of this piece and insert over it a small wire
+staple, as seen at (_a_). Elevate the platform evenly and determine
+the spot for the other gimlet hole, which should be directly beneath
+the point of the filed brad. Be sure that it is in the middle of
+the board, so that the platform may set squarely, and be perfectly
+parallel with the sides. Insert the remaining prop in its place,
+and the platform is complete. The overhanging spindle now requires a
+little attention. This should be whittled off on each side, bringing
+it to a point at the tip. On each side of the spindle a long plug
+should then be driven into the back piece, as our illustration
+shows. These should be far enough apart to allow the spindle to
+pass easily between them. The _setting_ of the trap is plainly shown
+[Page 88]
+in our engraving. The spindle being lowered between the plugs is caught
+finely on the tip of the catch-piece. The blunt point at the opposite
+end of the platform should have a slight hollow made for it in the
+prop against which it presses. If the platform be now strewn with
+bait, the little machine is ready. It is certainly very simple and
+will be found very effective.
+
+
+THE BOX OWL TRAP.
+
+The use of a box trap for the capture of an owl is certainly an
+odd idea, but we nevertheless illustrate a contrivance which has
+been successfully used for that purpose.
+
+The box in this case should be of the proportions shown in our
+engraving, and well ventilated with holes, as indicated. (This
+ventilation is, by-the-way, a good feature to introduce in _all_
+traps.) Having made or selected a suitable box--say, fourteen or
+more inches wide, provided with a cover, working on a hinge--proceed
+to fasten on the outside of the lid a loop of stiff wire, bent in
+the shape shown at (_e_). This may be fastened to the cover by
+means of small staples, or even tacks, and should project over
+the edge about two inches. When this is done, the lid should be
+raised to the angle shown in our illustration, and the spot where
+the end of the wire loop touches the back of the box should be
+marked and a slit cut through the wood at this place, large enough
+for the angle of the loop to pass through. Two elastics should
+now be fastened to the inside of the box, being secured to the
+bottom at the side, and the other to the edge of the cover, as
+seen in the illustration. They should be sufficiently strong to
+draw down the cover quickly. The perch, or spindle, should consist
+of a light stick of wood, as shown at (_b_,) one end provided with
+a slight notch, and the other fastened to the inside of the front
+of the box by a string or leather hinge, (_c_,) keeping the notch on
+the _upper_ side of the stick. It will be now seen that by opening
+the cover, until the loop enters through the groove, and by then
+hooking the notch in the spindle _under_ the loop as seen at (_a_)
+the trap will be set, and if properly done it will be found that a
+very slight weight on the spindle will set it free from the loop
+and let the cover down with swiftness.
+
+To secure the cover in place a small tin catch should now be applied
+to the front edge of the box, as shown in the illustration. A piece
+of tin two inches in length by a half an inch in breadth will answer
+for this purpose. One end should be bent
+[Page 89]
+down half an inch at a pretty sharp angle, and the other attached
+by two tacks, to the edge of the box, in the position shown in
+the cut. This precaution will effectually prevent the escape of
+whatever bird, large or small, the trap may chance to secure. It
+is a necessary feature of the trap, as without it the elastics
+might be torn asunder and the lid thereby easily raised.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This trap may be baited in a variety of ways. As it is particularly
+designed for a _bird_ trap, it is well to sprinkle the bottom of
+the box with berries, bird-seed, small insects, such as crickets,
+grasshoppers, etc. These latter are very apt to jump out, and it
+may be well to fasten one or two of them to the bottom with a pin
+through the body, just behind the head.
+
+There are many kinds of birds which live almost exclusively on
+insects; and as this bait is of rather a lively kind, there is
+scarcely any other method to retain them in their position. A bird
+on approaching this trap will almost irresistibly alight on the
+perch, and if not at _first_, it is generally sure to do so before
+long. If desired, a pasteboard platform may be fastened on the
+[Page 90]
+top of the perch with small tacks, and the bait scattered upon
+it. This will act in the same manner, and might, perhaps, be a
+trifle more certain. We will leave it to our readers to experiment
+upon.
+
+We have given this variety the name of "owl-trap," because it may
+be used with success in this direction. When set for this purpose,
+it should be baited with a live mouse, small rat or bird, either
+fastened to the bottom of the trap, if a bird, or set in with the
+trap inclosing it, if a mouse. A small bird is the preferable bait,
+as it may be easily fastened to the bottom of the box by a string,
+and as a general thing is more sure to attract the attention of
+the owl by its chirping.
+
+The trap should be set in an open, conspicuous spot, in the neighborhood
+where the owls in the night are heard to "hoot." The chances are
+that the box will contain an owl on the following morning.
+
+This bird is a very interesting and beautiful creature, and if our
+young reader could only catch one, and find rats and mice enough
+to keep it well fed, he would not only greatly diminish the number
+of rats in his neighborhood, but he would realize a great deal
+of enjoyment in watching and studying the habits of the bird.
+
+Should it be difficult to supply the above mentioned food, raw
+meat will answer equally well. The bird should either be kept in
+a cage or inclosure and in the latter case, its wings will require
+to be clipped.
+
+
+THE BOX BIRD TRAP.
+
+Here we have another invention somewhat resembling the foregoing.
+Our engraving represents the arrangement of the parts as the trap
+appears when set.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The box may be of almost any shape. A large sized cigar box has
+been used with excellent success, and for small birds is just the
+thing. The cover of the box in any case should work on a hinge of
+some sort. The trap is easily made. The first thing to be done
+is to cut an upright slot, about two inches in length, through
+the centre of the backboard, commencing at the upper edge. To the
+inside centre edge of the cover a small square strap, about four
+inches in length, should then be secured. It should be so adjusted
+as that one-half shall project toward the inside of the box, as
+seen in the illustration, and at the same time pass easily through
+[Page 91]
+the slot beneath where the cover is closed. The lid should now be
+supplied with elastics as described in the foregoing. Next in order
+comes the bait stick. Its shape is clearly shown in our illustration,
+and it may be either cut in one piece or consist of two parts joined
+together at the angle. To the long arm the bait should be attached
+and the upright portion should be just long enough to suspend the
+cover in a position on a line with the top of the box. The trap may
+now be set, as seen in our illustration, and should be supplied with
+the necessary tin catch, described in the foregoing.
+
+
+THE PENDENT BOX TRAP.
+
+This invention is original with the author of this work, and when
+properly made and set will prove an excellent device for the capture
+of small birds.
+
+The general appearance of the trap, as set, is clearly shown in
+our illustration. A thin wooden box is the first requisite, it
+should be about a foot square and six inches in depth, and supplied
+with a close fitting cover, working on hinges. The sides should then
+be perforated with a few auger holes for purposes of ventilation.
+
+Two elastics are next in order, and they should be attached to the
+cover and box, one on each side, as shown at (_a_.) They should be
+drawn to a strong tension, so as to hold the cover firmly against
+the box.
+
+The mechanism of the trap centres in the bait stick which differs
+in construction from any other described in this book.
+
+It should be made about the size of a lead pencil, and eleven
+[Page 92]
+inches or so in length, depending of course upon the size of the
+box.
+
+It should then be divided in two pieces by a perfectly flat cut,
+the longer part being six inches in length. This piece should be
+attached to the back board of the box by a small string and a tack,
+as shown at (_c_), its end being bluntly pointed. Its attachment
+should be about five inches above the bottom board, and in the
+exact centre of the width of the back.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Near the flat end of the other piece the bait consisting of a berry
+or other fruit, should be secured, and the further extremity of
+the stick should then be rounded to a blunt point. The trap is now
+easily set. Raise the lid and lift the long stick to the position
+given in the illustration. Adjust the flat end of the bait stick
+against that of the former, and allow the pressure of the lid to
+bear against the blunt point of the short stick at (_d_), as shown
+in the illustration, a straight dent being made in the cover to
+receive it, as also in the back of the box for the other piece.
+If properly constructed, this pressure will be sufficient to hold
+the sticks end to end, as our engraving represents, and the trap is
+[Page 93]
+thus set. The slightest weight on the false perch thus made will
+throw the parts asunder, and the cover closes with a snap.
+
+The greatest difficulties in constructing the trap will be found
+in the bearings of the bait sticks (_b_), the ends of which must
+be perfectly flat and join snugly, in order to hold themselves
+together. The box may now be suspended in a tree by the aid of a
+string at the top. The first bird that makes bold enough to alight
+on the perch is a sure captive, and is secured without harm. If
+desired, the elastic may be attached to the inside of the cover,
+extending to the back of the box, as seen in the initial at the head
+of this chapter. If the elastic in any event shows tendencies toward
+relaxing, the tin catch described on page 88 should be adjusted
+to the lower edge of the box to insure capture.
+
+
+THE HAWK TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our illustration represents a hawk in a sad plight. The memory of
+a recent feast has attracted it to the scene of many of
+[Page 94]
+its depredations: but the ingenious farmer has at last outwitted
+his feathered foe and brought its sanguinary exploits to a timely
+end. This trap is a "Yankee" invention and has been used with great
+success in many instances where the hawk has become a scourge to the
+poultry yard. The contrivance is clearly shown in an illustration,
+consisting merely of a piece of plank two feet square, set with
+stiff perpendicular pointed wires.
+
+This affair was set on the ground in a conspicuous place, the board
+covered with grass, and the nice fat Poland hen which was tied to
+the centre proved a morsel too tempting for the hawk to resist.
+Hence the "fell swoop" and the fatal consequences depicted in our
+illustration. The owl has also been successfully captured by the
+same device.
+
+
+THE WILD DUCK NET.
+
+Following will be found two examples of traps in very common use
+for the capture of wild ducks, and in the region of Chesapeake
+bay, immense numbers of the game are annually taken by their aid.
+The first is the well known net trap, so extensively used in nearly
+all countries, both for the capture of various kinds of fish as
+well as winged game. Our illustration gives a very clear idea of
+the construction of the net, and an elaborate description is almost
+superfluous. It consists of a graduated series of hoops covered
+by a net work. From each a converging net extends backward ending
+in a smaller hoop which is held in position by cords extending
+[Page 95]
+therefrom to the next larger hoop. The depth of these converging
+nets should extend backward about three or four feet from the large
+hoop; and the distance between these latter should be about five
+feet. The length of the net should be about twenty feet, terminating
+in a "pound" or netted enclosure, as seen in the illustration. The
+trap may be set on shore or in the water as seen. "Decoy" birds are
+generally used, being enclosed in the pound.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When set on land the bait consisting of corn or other grain should
+be spread about the entrance and through the length of the net.
+
+It is remarkable that a duck which so easily finds its way within
+the netted enclosure, should be powerless to make its escape, but
+such seems to be the fact, and even a single hoop with its reflex
+net, has been known to secure a number of the game.
+
+
+THE HOOK TRAP
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our second example is one which we are almost tempted to exclude
+on account of its cruelty, but as our volume is especially devoted
+to traps of all kinds and as this is a variety in very common use,
+we feel bound to give it a passing notice. Our illustration fully
+conveys its painful mode of capture, and a beach at low water is
+generally the scene of the slaughter. A long stout cord is first
+stretched across the sand and secured
+[Page 96]
+to a peg at each end. To this shorter lines are attached at intervals,
+each one being supplied with a fish hook baited with a piece of
+the tender rootstock of a certain water reed, of which the ducks
+are very fond. The main cord and lines are then imbedded in the
+sand, the various baits only appearing on the surface, and the
+success of the device is equal to its cruelty.
+
+
+THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.
+
+Of all oddities of the trap kind, there is, perhaps, no one more
+novel and comical than the "Fool's Cap" crow-trap, which forms
+the subject of our present illustration. Crows are by no means
+easy of capture in any form of trap, and they are generally as
+coy and as shrewd in their approach to a trap as they are bold in
+their familiarity and disrespect for the sombre scarecrows in the
+com field. But this simple device will often mislead the smartest
+and shrewdest crow, and make a perfect _fool_ of him, for it is
+hard to imagine a more ridiculous sight than is furnished by the
+strange antics and evolutions of a crow thus embarrassed with his
+head imbedded in a cap which he finds impossible to remove, and
+which he in vain endeavors to shake off by all sorts of gymnastic
+performance. The secret of the little contrivance is easily told.
+The cap consists of a little cone of stiff paper, about three or
+four inches in diameter at the opening. This is imbedded in the
+ground, up to its edge, and a few grains of corn are dropped into
+it. The inside edge of the opening is then smeared with _bird-lime_,
+[Page 97]
+a substance of which we shall speak hereafter.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The crow, on endeavoring to reach the corn, sinks his bill so deep
+in the cone as to bring the gummy substance in contact with the
+feathers of his head and neck, to which it adheres in spite of
+all possible efforts on the part of the bird to throw it off.
+
+The cones may be made of a brownish-colored paper if they are to
+be placed in the earth, but of white paper when inserted in the
+snow. It is an excellent plan to insert a few of these cones in
+the fresh corn hills at planting season, as the crows are always on
+the watch at this time, and will be sure to partake of the tempting
+morsels, not dreaming of the result. The writer has often heard
+of this ingenious device, and has read of its being successfully
+employed in many instances, but he has never yet had an opportunity
+of testing it himself. He will leave it for his readers to experiment
+upon for themselves.
+
+
+BIRD LIME.
+
+This substance so called to which we have above alluded, and which
+is sold in our bird marts under that name, is a viscid, sticky
+preparation, closely resembling a very thick and gummy varnish.
+It is astonishingly "sticky," and the slightest quantity between
+the fingers will hold them together with remarkable tenacity. What
+its effect must be on the feathers of a bird can easily be imagined.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This preparation is put up in boxes of different sizes, and may
+be had from any of the taxidermists or bird-fanciers in any of
+[Page 98]
+our large towns or cities. Should a _home made_ article be required,
+an excellent substitute may be prepared from the inner bark of the
+"slippery elm." This should be gathered in the spring or early
+summer, cut into very small pieces or scraped into threads, and
+boiled in water sufficient to cover them until the pieces are soft
+and easily mashed. By this time the water will be pretty much boiled
+down, and the whole mass should then be poured into a mortar and
+beaten up, adding at the same time a few grains of wheat. When
+done, the paste thus made may be put into an earthen vessel and
+kept. When required to be used, it should be melted or softened
+over the fire, adding goose grease or linseed oil, instead of water.
+When of the proper consistency it may be spread upon sticks or
+twigs prepared for it, and which should afterwards be placed in
+the locality selected for the capture of the birds.
+
+An excellent bird-lime may be made also from plain linseed-oil,
+by boiling it down until it becomes thick and gummy. Thick varnish
+either plain or mixed with oil, but always free from alcohol, also
+answers the purpose very well. The limed twigs may be either set
+in trees or placed on poles and stuck in the ground.
+
+If any of our readers chance to become possessed of an owl, they
+may look forward to grand success with their limed twigs. It is a
+well known fact in natural history that the _owl_ is the universal
+enemy of nearly all our smaller birds. And when, as often happens,
+a swarm of various birds are seen flying frantically from limb to
+limb, seeming to centre on a particular tree, and filling the air
+with their loud chirping, it may be safely concluded that some sleepy
+owl has been surprised in his day-dozing, and is being severely
+pecked and punished for his nightly depredations.
+
+Profiting from this fact, the bird catcher often utilizes the owl
+with great success. Fastening the bird in the crotch of some tree,
+he adjusts the limed twigs on an sides, even covering the neighboring
+branches with the gummy substance. No sooner is the owl spied by
+_one_ bird than the cry is set up, and a _score_ of foes are soon
+at hand, ready for battle. One by one they alight on the beguiling
+twigs, and one by one find themselves held fast. The more they flutter
+the more powerless they become, and the more securely are they held.
+In this way many valuable and rare birds are often captured.
+
+
+[Page 99]
+THE HUMMING BIRD TRAP.
+
+One of the most ingenious uses to which bird lime is said to have
+been applied with success, is in the capture of humming-birds.
+The lime in this instance is made simply by chewing a few grains
+of wheat in the mouth until a gum is formed. It is said that by
+spreading this on the inside opening of the long white lily or
+trumpet-creeper blossom, the capture of a humming-bird is almost
+certain, and he will never be able to leave the flower after once
+fairly having entered the opening. There can be no doubt but that
+this is perfectly practicable, and we recommend it to our readers.
+
+The object in making the bird-lime from wheat consists in the fact
+that this is more easily removed from the feathers than the other
+kinds.
+
+We would not wish our readers to infer from this that a humming-bird
+might be captured or kept alive, for of all birds, they are the most
+fragile and delicate, and would die of _fright_, if from nothing
+else. They are chiefly used for ornamental purposes, and may be
+caught in a variety of ways. A few silk nooses hung about the flowers
+where the birds are seen to frequent, will sometimes succeed in
+ensnaring their tiny forms.
+
+The blow-gun is often used with good success, and the concussion
+from a gun loaded simply with powder, and aimed in the direction
+of the bird, will often stun it so that it will fall to the ground.
+If a strong stream of water be forced upon the little creature, as
+it is fluttering from flower to flower, the result is the same,
+as the feathers become so wet that it cannot fly.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 101]
+[Illustration: MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS]
+
+[Page 103]
+BOOK IV.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.
+
+
+THE COMMON BOX TRAP.
+
+[Illustration: T]he following chapter includes a variety of traps
+which have not been covered by any of the previous titles. Several
+novelties are contained in the list, and also a number of well
+known inventions.
+
+There is probably no more familiar example of the trap kind than
+that of the common wooden box-trap, better known, perhaps, by our
+country boys as the rabbit-trap. A glance at our illustration, will
+readily bring it to mind, and easily explain its working to those
+not particularly acquainted with it. These traps may be made of any
+size, but, being usually employed in catching rabbits, require to
+be made quite large. They should be made of hard seasoned wood--oak
+or chestnut is the best--and of slabs about an inch in thickness.
+The pieces may be of the following dimensions: let the bottom board
+be 20+7 in.; side board, 20+9 in.; lid board 19+7 in., and the
+end piece of lid 7 in. square.
+
+The tall end piece should be about 16 inches high by 7 broad. Let
+this be sharpened on the upper end, as seen in the engraving, and
+furnished with a slight groove on the summit, for the reception
+of the cord. Now to put the pieces together.
+
+Nail the two sides to the edge of the bottom board, and fit in
+between them the high end piece, securing that also, with nails
+through the bottom and side boards. Next nail the lid board on
+to the small, square end piece, and fit the lid thus made neatly
+into its place.
+
+To make the hinge for the lid, two small holes should be bored
+through the sides of the trap, about four inches from the tall end,
+and half an inch from the upper edge of each board. Let
+[Page 104]
+small nails now be driven through these holes into the edge of the
+lid, and it will be found to work freely upon them.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The principal part of the trap is now made, but what remains to be
+done is of great importance. The "spindle" is a necessary feature
+in nearly all traps, and the box-trap is useless without it. In
+this case it should consist merely of a round stick of about the
+thickness of a lead pencil, and we will say, 7 or 8 in. in length.
+One end should be pointed and the other should have a small notch
+cut in it, as seen in the separate drawing of the stick. The spindle
+being ready, we must have some place to put it. Another hole should
+be bored through the middle of the high end piece, and about 4 in.
+from the bottom. This hole should be large enough to allow the
+spindle to pass easily through it. If our directions have been
+carefully followed, the result will now show a complete, closefitting
+trap.
+
+In setting the trap there are two methods commonly employed, as
+shown at _a_ and _b_. The string, in either case, must be fastened
+to the end of the lid.
+
+In the first instance (_a_) the lid is raised and made fast by the
+brace, holding itself beneath the tip of the projecting spindle,
+and a nail or plug driven into the wood by the side of the hole.
+[Page 105]
+Of course, when the spindle is drawn or moved from the inside the
+brace will be let loose and the lid will drop.
+
+In the other method (_b_) the spindle is longer, and projects several
+inches on the outside of the hole. The brace is also longer, and
+catches itself in the notch on the end of the spindle, and another
+slight notch in the board, a few inches above the hole.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When the bait is touched from the inside, the brace easily flies
+out and the lid falls, securing its victim. Either way is sure
+to succeed, but if there is any preference it is for the former
+(_a_). It is a wise plan to have a few holes through the trap in
+different places, to allow for ventilation, and it may be found
+necessary to line the cracks with tin, as sometimes the enclosed
+creature might otherwise gnaw through and make its escape. If there
+is danger of the lid not closing tightly when sprung, a stone may
+be fastened upon it to insure that result.
+
+This trap is usually set for rabbits, and these dimensions are
+especially calculated with that idea. Rabbits abound in all our
+woods and thickets, and may be attracted by various baits. An apple
+is most generally used. The box-trap may be made of smaller dimensions,
+and set in trees for squirrels with very good success.
+
+There is still another well known form of this trap represented
+in the tail piece at the end of this section. The box is first
+constructed of the shape already given, only having the lid piece
+[Page 106]
+nailed firmly in the top of the box. The tall end piece is also
+done away with. The whole thing thus representing a simple oblong
+box with one end open. Two slender cleats should be nailed on each
+side of this opening, on the interior of the box, to form a groove
+into which a square end board may easily slide up and down, the
+top board being slightly sawn away to receive it. An upright stick
+should then be erected on the top centre of the box, in the tip of
+which a straight stick should be pivoted, working easily therein,
+like the arms of a balance. To one end of this balance, the end
+board should be adjusted by two screw eyes, and to the other the
+string with spindle attached. By now lowering the spindle to its
+place, the further end of the balance will be raised and with it
+the end board, and on the release of the spindle the board will
+fall. This plan is quite commonly adopted but we rather prefer
+the former. But as each has its advantages we present them both.
+
+
+ANOTHER BOX TRAP.
+
+This works after the manner of the ordinary wire rat-trap; our
+illustration explains itself.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The box should be of the shape there shown, with one of its end
+pieces arranged on hinges so as to fall freely. An elastic should
+be fastened from the inside of this end to the inner surface of
+the top of the box, to insure its closing. If desired an elastic
+may be adjusted at the side as shown in the cut and a catch piece
+of stout tin should be attached to the bottom of the trap to secure
+the lid when it falls. A small hole should then be bored in the
+top, near the further end of the trap, and
+[Page 107]
+the spindle, having a notch on its upper end, passed through the
+hole thus made. The top of the spindle is shown at (_a_). It should
+be held in its place by a small plug or pin through it, below the
+surface of the box. A slender stick, long enough to reach and catch
+beneath the notch in the spindle should now be fastened to the lid
+and the trap is complete. It may be baited with cheese, bread,
+and the like, and if set for squirrels, an apple answers every
+purpose.
+
+When constructed on a larger and heavier scale it may be used for
+the capture of rabbits and animals of a similar size, but for this
+purpose the previous variety is preferable.
+
+
+THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+One of the most useful as well as the most ancient inventions in
+the way of traps is the common _Figure Four Trap_, which forms
+the subject of our next illustration. It is a very ingenious
+contrivance, and the mechanism, consists merely of three sticks.
+It possesses great advantages in the fact that it may be used in
+a variety of ways, and a number of the machines may be carried by
+the young trapper with very little inconvenience. Our illustration
+shows the trap already set, only awaiting for a slight touch at
+the bait to bring the heavy stone to the ground. A box may be
+substituted for the stone, and the animal may thus be
+[Page 108]
+captured alive. The three sticks are represented separate at _a_.
+_b_. and _c_. Of course, there is no regular size for them, as this
+would greatly depend upon the purpose for which they are designed
+to be used. If for rabbits, the following proportions will answer
+very well. The sticks should all be square, and about half an inch
+in thickness. The bait-stick, (_a_) should be about nine or ten
+inches in length, one end being pointed and the other furnished
+with a notch, as indicated. The upright stick, (_b_) should be
+a little shorter, one end being whittled to a rather sharp edge.
+At about three or four inches from the other end, and on the side
+next to that whittled, a square notch should be cut. This should
+be about a third of an inch in depth and half an inch in width,
+being so cut as exactly to receive the bait-stick without holding
+it fast. The remaining stick (_c_) should have a length of about
+seven or eight inches, one end being whittled, as in the last,
+to an edge, and the other end furnished with a notch on the same
+side of the stick.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When these are finished, the trap may be set in the following manner:
+Place the upright stick, (_b_) with its pointed end uppermost.
+Rest the notch of the slanting stick, (_c_) on the summit of the
+upright stick, placing the stone upon its end, and holding the
+stick in position with the hand. By now hooking the notch in the
+bait-stick on the sharpened edge of the slanting stick and fitting
+it into the square notch in the upright, it may easily be made to
+catch and hold itself in position. The bait should always project
+beneath the stone. In case a box is used instead of a stone, the
+trap may be set either inside of it or beneath its edge. Where the
+ground is very soft, it would be well to rest the upright stick
+on a chip or small flat stone, as otherwise it is apt to sink into
+the earth by degrees and spring by itself.
+
+When properly made, it is a very sure and sensitive trap, and the
+bait, generally an apple, or "nub" of corn is seldom more than
+touched when the stone falls.
+
+
+[Page 109]
+THE "DOUBLE ENDER."
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is what we used to call it in New England and it was a great
+favorite among the boys who were fond of rabbit catching. It was
+constructed of four boards two feet in length by nine inches in
+breath secured with nails at their edges, so as to form a long
+square box. Each end was supplied with a heavy lid working on two
+hinges. To each of these lids a light strip of wood was fastened,
+the length of each being sufficient to reach nearly to the middle
+of the top of the box, as seen in the illustration. At this point
+a small auger hole was then made downward through the board. A
+couple of inches of string was next tied to the tip of each stick
+and supplied with a large knot at the end. The trap was then set on
+the simple principle of which there are so many examples throughout
+the pages of this work. The knots were lowered through the auger
+hole and the insertion of the bait stick inside the box held them
+in place. The edge of the bottom board on each end of the trap
+should be supplied with a tin catch such as is described on page
+88 in order to hold the lid in place after it has fallen. No matter
+from which end the bait is approached it is no sooner touched than
+both ends fall and "_bunny_" is prisoner. Like many other of our
+four-footed game, the rabbit manifests a peculiar liking for salt
+and may be regularly attracted to a given spot by its aid. A salted
+cotton string is sometimes extended several yards from the trap
+for the purpose of leading them to it, but this seems a needless
+precaution, as the rabbit is seldom behind hand in discerning a
+tempting bait when it is within his reach.
+
+
+[Page 110]
+THE SELF SETTING TRAP.
+
+One of the oldest known principles ever embodied in the form of a
+trap is that which forms the subject of the accompanying illustration.
+It is very simple in construction, sure in its action; and as its
+name implies, resets itself after each intruder has been captured.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It is well adapted for Rabbits and Coons and when made on a small
+scale, may be successfully employed in taking rats and mice. It
+is also extensively used in the capture of the Mink and Muskrat,
+being set beneath the water, near the haunts of the animals and
+weighted by a large stone. Of course the size of the box will be
+governed by the dimensions of the game for which it is to be set.
+Its general proportions should resemble those of the illustration,
+both ends being open. A small gate, consisting of a square piece
+of wood supplied with a few stiff wires is then pivoted inside
+each opening, so as to work freely and fall easily when raised.
+The bait is fastened inside at the centre of the box. The animal,
+in quest of the bait, finds an easy entrance, as the wires lift
+at a slight pressure, but the exit after the gate has closed is
+so difficult that escape is almost beyond the question.
+
+The wires should be so stiff as to preclude the possibility of them
+being bent by struggles of the imprisoned creature in his
+[Page 111]
+efforts to escape, and to insure further strength it is advisable
+to connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of finer
+wire, twisted about each.
+
+The simultaneous capture of two rabbits in a trap of this kind is
+a common occurrence.
+
+
+THE DEAD-FALL.
+
+In strolling through the woods and on the banks of streams in the
+country, it is not an uncommon thing to stumble against a contrivance
+resembling in general appearance our next illustration. Throughout
+New England, the "dead-fall," as this is called, has always been
+a most popular favorite among trappers, young and old; and there
+is really no better rough and ready trap for large game. To entrap
+a fox by any device is no easy matter; but the writer remembers
+one case where Reynard was outwitted, and the heavy log of the
+"dead-fall" put a speedy end to his existence. The trap was set in
+a locality where the fox had made himself a nuisance by repeated
+nocturnal invasions among the poultry, and the bait was cleverly
+calculated to decoy him. A live duck was tied within the pen, and
+the morsel proved too tempting for him to resist. Thrusting his
+head beneath the suspended log, in order to reach his prey, he thus
+threw down the slender framework of support; and the log, falling
+across his neck, put him to death.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our illustration gives a very correct idea of the general construction
+of the "dead-fall," although differing slightly in its mode of
+setting from that usually employed.
+
+[Page 112]
+A pen of rough sticks is first constructed, having an open front.
+A log about seven or eight feet in length, and five or six inches
+in diameter, should then be procured. An ordinary fence rail will
+answer the purpose very well, although the log is preferable. Its
+large end should be laid across the front of the pen, and two stout
+sticks driven into the ground outside of it, leaving room for it
+to rise and fall easily between them and the pen, a second shorter
+log being placed on the ground beneath it, as described for the
+bear-trap, page (17). A look at our illustration fully explains
+the _setting_ of the parts. A forked twig, about a foot in length,
+answers for the bait-stick. The lower end should be pointed, and
+the fork, with its bait, should incline toward the ground, when
+set. The upper end should be supplied with a notch, square side
+down, and directly above the branch which holds the bait. Another
+straight stick, about fourteen inches in length, should then be
+cut. Make it quite flat on each end. A small thin stone, chip of
+wood, or the like, is the only remaining article required. Now
+proceed to raise the log, as shown in the drawing, place one end
+of the straight stick beneath it, resting its tip on the flat top
+of the upright stick on the outside of the log. The baitstick should
+now be placed in position inside the inclosure, resting the pointed
+end on the chip, and securing the notch above, as seen in the
+illustration, beneath the tip of the flat stick. When this is done,
+the trap is set, but, there are a few little hints in regard to
+setting it finely,--that is, surely,--which will be necessary.
+It is very important to avoid bringing too much of the weight of
+the log on the flat stick, as this would of course bear heavily on
+the bait-stick, and render considerable force necessary to spring
+the trap. The leverage at the point where the log rests on the flat
+stick should be very slight, and the log should be so placed that
+the upright shall sustain nearly all the weight. By this method,
+very little pressure is brought to bear on the bait-stick, and a
+very slight twitch will throw it out of poise. The fork of the
+bait-stick should point to the side of the inclosure, as, in this
+case, when the bait is seized by the unlucky intruder, the very
+turning of the fork forces the notch from beneath the horizontal
+stick, and throws the parts asunder.
+
+If the trap is set for muskrats, minks, skunks, or animals of similar
+size, the weight of the log will generally be found sufficient to
+effect their death; but, if desired, a heavy stone
+[Page 113]
+may be rested against it, or the raised end weighted with other
+logs (see p. 18), to make sure. When set for a coon or fox, this
+precaution is necessary. To guard against the cunning which some
+animals possess, it is frequently necessary to cover the top of the
+pen with cross-sticks, as there are numerous cases on record where
+the intended victims have climbed over the side of the inclosure, and
+taken the bait from the inside, thus keeping clear of the suspended
+log, and springing the trap without harm to themselves. A few sticks
+or branches laid across the top of the inclosure will prevent any
+such capers; and the crafty animals will either have to take the
+bait at the risk of their lives, or leave it alone.
+
+For trapping the muskrat, the bait may consist of carrots, turnips,
+apples, and the like. For the mink, a bird's head, or the head
+of a fowl, is the customary bait; and the skunk may usually be
+taken with sweet apples, meats, or some portion of a dead fowl.
+
+In the case of the fox, which we have mentioned, the setting of the
+trap was somewhat varied; and in case our readers might desire to
+try a similar experiment, we will devote a few lines to a description
+of it. In this instance, the flat stick which supported the log was
+not more than eight inches in length; and instead of the bait-stick,
+a slight framework of slender branches was substituted. This frame or
+lattice-work was just large enough to fill the opening of the pen,
+and its upper end supported the flat stick. The duck was fastened
+to the back part of the pen, which was also closed over the top.
+The quacking of the fowl attracted the fox; and as he thrust his
+head through the lattice to reach his prey, the frame was thrown
+out of balance and Reynard paid the price of his greed and folly.
+
+There is another mode of adjusting the pieces of the dead-fall,
+commonly employed by professional trappers, whereby the trap is sprung
+by the foot of the animal in quest of the bait. This construction
+is shown correctly in the accompanying cut, which gives the front
+view, the pen being made as before. The stout crotch represented
+at (_a_) is rested on the summit of a strong peg, driven into the
+ground beneath the _outside edge_ of the suspended log; (_b_) is
+the treacherous stick which seals the doom of any animal that dares
+rest his foot upon it. This piece should be long enough to stretch
+across and overlap the guard-pegs at each side of the opening. To
+set the trap, rest the short crotch of (_a_) on the top of the
+peg, and lower the log upon it, keeping the leverage slight, as
+directed in our last example, letting much of the weight come on the
+[Page 114]
+top of the peg. The long arm of the crotch should be pressed inward
+from the front, and one end of the stick (_b_) should then be caught
+between its extreme tip, and the upright peg about ten inches above
+the ground. By now fastening the bait to a peg at the back part of
+the pen, the affair is in working order, and will be found perfectly
+reliable. The ground log (_d_) being rested in place as seen in
+the illustration. To make assurance doubly sure, it is well to cut
+a slight notch in the upright stick at (_c_) for the reception of
+the foot-piece (_b_). By this precaution the stick, when lowered,
+is bound to sink at the right end, thus ensuring success.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Figure-Four Trap, already described in another part of this
+book, is also well adapted to the dead-fall, and is much used.
+It should be made of stout pieces and erected at the opening of
+the pen, with the bait pointing toward the interior, the heavy
+log being poised on its summit.
+
+
+THE GARROTE.
+
+There is another variety of trap, somewhat resembling the dead-fall,
+but which seizes its prey in a little different manner.
+[Page 115]
+This trap, which we will call the _Garrote_, is truly represented
+by our illustration. A pen is first constructed, similar to that of
+the dead-fall. At the opening of the pen, two arches are fastened
+in the ground. They should be about an inch apart. A stout forked
+stick should then be cut, and firmly fixed in the earth at the
+side of the arches, and about three feet distant.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our main illustration gives the general appearance of the trap,
+but we also subjoin an additional cut, showing the "setting" or
+arrangement of the pieces. They are three in number, and consist:
+First, of a notched peg, which is driven into the ground at the back
+part of the pen, and a little to one side. Second, of a forked twig,
+the branch of which should point downward with the bait attached to
+its end. The third stick being the little hooked piece catching
+beneath the arches. The first of these is too simple to need
+description. The second should be about eight inches long; a notch
+should be cut in each end. The upper one being on the side from
+which the branch projects, and the other on the _opposite_ side
+of the stick, and at the other end, as is made plain by our
+illustration. The third stick may consist merely of a hooked crotch
+of some twig, as this is always to be found. Indeed, nearly _all_
+the parts of this trap may be found in any woods; and, with the
+exception of a jack-knife, bait, and string, the trapper need not
+trouble himself to carry any materials whatever. When the three
+pieces are thus made the trap only awaits the "Garrote." This should
+be made from a stiff pole, about six feet in length, having a heavy
+stone tied to its large end, and a loop of the shape of the letter
+U, or a slipping noose, made of stout cord or wire, fastened
+[Page 116]
+at the smaller end. To arrange the pieces for their destructive
+work, the pole should be bent down so that the loop shall fall
+between the arches. The "crotch stick" should then be hooked beneath
+the front of the arch, letting its arm point inward. After this
+the bait stick should be placed in its position, with the bait
+pointing downward, letting one end catch beneath the notch in the
+ground-peg, and the other over the tip of the crotch stick. This
+done, and the trap is set.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Like the dead-fall, the bait stick should point toward the side
+of the pen, as the turning involved in pulling it toward the front
+is positively _sure_ to slip it loose from its catches. Be careful
+to see that the loop is nicely arranged between the arches, and that
+the top of the pen is covered with a few twigs. If these directions
+are carefully followed, and if the young trapper has selected a
+good trapping ground, it will not be a matter of many days before
+he will discover the upper portion of the arches occupied by some
+rabbit, muskrat, or other unlucky creature, either standing on its
+hind legs, or lifted clean off the ground. Coons are frequently
+secured by this trap, although, as a general thing, they don't
+show much enthusiasm over traps of any kind, and seem to prefer
+to get their food elsewhere, rather than take it off the end of
+a bait stick.
+
+
+THE BOW TRAP.
+
+This most excellent and unique machine is an invention of the author's,
+and possesses great advantages, both on account of its durability
+and of the speedy death which it inflicts.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Procure a board about two feet in length, by five or six in width,
+and commencing at about nine inches from one end, cut a hole four
+or more inches square. This may readily be done with a narrow saw,
+by first boring a series of gimlet holes in which to insert it.
+There will now be nine inches of board on one side of the hole
+and eleven on the other. The shorter end constituting the top of
+the trap. On the upper edge of the hole
+[Page 117]
+a row of stout tin teeth should be firmly tacked, as seen in the
+illustration. On the other side of the cavity, and three inches
+from it a small auger hole (the size of a lead pencil), should
+be bored. After which it should be sand-papered and polished on
+the interior, by rubbing with some smooth, hard tool, inserted
+inside. A round plug of wood should next be prepared. Let it be
+about half an inch in length, being afterwards bevelled nearly
+the whole length of one side, as shown at (_b_), leaving a little
+over an eighth of an inch of the wood unwhittled. This little piece
+of wood is the most important part, of the trap, and should be made
+very carefully. The remaining end of the board below the auger
+hole should now be whittled off to a point, in order that it may be
+driven into the ground. The next requisites consist of two pieces
+of wood, which are seen at the sides of the square hole, in our
+illustration, and also seen at (_c_), side view. These
+[Page 118]
+pieces should be about six inches in length and about an inch square.
+A thin piece being cut off from one side of each, to the distance
+of four inches, and ending in a square notch. The other end should
+be rounded off, as is also there plainly indicated. Before adjusting
+the pieces in place, two tin catches should be fastened to the
+board, one on each side of the hole. This catch is shown at (_d_),
+and consists merely of a piece of tin, half an inch in width, and
+three-quarters of an inch in length, tacked to the wood, and having
+its end raised, as indicated. Its object is to hold the bow-string
+from being pulled down after once passing it. The upper edge of
+these catch-pieces should be about an inch and a half from the top
+of the hole, and, if desired, two or three of them may be arranged
+one above the other, so that wherever the string may stop against
+the neck of the inmate it will be sure to hold. The catches being
+in place, proceed to adjust the pieces of wood, letting the notch
+be on a line with the top of the pole, or a little above it. Each
+piece should be fastened with two screws to make secure.
+
+We will now give our attention to the bait stick. This should be
+about six inches in length, and square, as our illustration shows.
+There are two ways of attaching the bait-stick to the board, both
+shown at (_e_) and (_f_). The former consists merely of a screw
+eye inserted into the end of the stick, afterwards hinged to the
+board by a wire staple. The point for the hinge, in this case,
+should be about an inch below the auger hole. In the other method
+(_f_), the bait stick should be a half inch longer, and the spot
+for the hinge a quarter inch lower. At about a quarter of an inch
+from the square end of the bait stick a small hole should be made
+by the use of a hot wire. An oblong mortice should next be cut
+in the board, so as to receive this end of the stick easily. A
+stout bit of wire should then be inserted in the little hole in
+the stick, and laying this across the centre of the mortice, it
+should be thus secured by two staples, as the drawing shows. This
+forms a very neat and simple hinge. To determine the place for
+the catch, insert the flat end of the little plug fairly into the
+auger-hole above the hinge. Draw up the bait stick, and at the
+point where it comes in contact with the point of the plug, cut
+a square notch, as shown in (_b_). Everything now awaits the bow.
+This should be of hickory or other stout wood; it is well to have
+it seasoned, although a stout sapling will answer the purpose very
+well. It should be fastened to the top of the board by two heavy
+staples, or nails driven on each side of it. The string should
+be _heavy_ Indian twine. Our
+[Page 119]
+illustration shows the trap, as it appears when ready for business.
+The plug is inserted, as already described, with the bevelled face
+downward, and square end in the hole. Draw down the bow-string and
+pass it beneath the plug, at the same time catching the tip of
+the latter in the notch of the bait stick. If properly constructed
+the string will thus rest on the slight uncut portion of the under
+side of the peg, and the trap is thus set. If the bait is pushed
+when approached, the notch is forced off from the plug, and the
+string flies up with a _twang!_ securing the neck of its victim,
+and producing almost instant death. If the bait is _pulled_, the
+bait stick thus forces the plug into the hole in the board, and
+thus slides the cord on to the bevel, which immediately releases
+it, and the bow is sprung. So that no matter whether the bait is
+pushed or drawn towards the front, the trap is equally sure to
+spring.
+
+In setting this curious machine, it is only necessary to insert
+it into the ground, and surround the bait with a slight pen, in
+order that it may not be approached from behind. By now laying a
+stone or a pile of sticks in front of the affair, so that the bait
+may be more readily reached, the thing is ready. Care is required
+in setting to arrange the pieces delicately. The plug should be
+_very slightly_ inserted into the auger hole, and the notch in
+the bait stick should be as small as possible, and hold. All this
+is made clear in our illustration (_b_).
+
+By observing these little niceties the trap becomes very sure and
+sensitive.
+
+Bait with small apple, nub of corn, or the like.
+
+
+THE MOLE TRAP.
+
+If there is anyone subject upon which the ingenuity of the farmers
+has been taxed, it is on the invention of a mole trap which would
+effectually clear their premises of these blind burrowing vermin.
+Many patented devices of this character are on the market, and
+many odd pictured ideas on the subject have gone the rounds of
+the illustrated press, but they all sink into insignificance when
+tested beside the trap we here present. It has no equal among mole
+traps, and it can be made with the utmost ease and without cost.
+The principle on which it works is the same as the Fish Trap on
+page 120.
+
+Construct a hollow wooden tube about five inches in diameter, and
+eight inches in length. A section of a small tree, neatly excavated
+with a large auger is just the thing. Through
+[Page 120]
+the centre of one of the sides a small hole the size of a lead
+pencil should be bored, this being the upper side. About half an
+inch distant from each end a smaller hole should be made for the
+passage of the noose. The spring should consist either of a stout
+steel rod, whalebone or stiff sapling, a foot or more in length,
+inserted downward through holes in the side of the tube after the
+manner of the Fish Trap already alluded to. No bait is required.
+A simple stick the size of the central hole at one end, and an
+inch in width at the other being sufficient. The trap is set as
+described in the other instances, and as the introduction of the
+spindle-stick is sometimes attended with difficulty owing to its
+position inside the trap, the bottom of the latter is sometimes
+cut away for two or three inches to facilitate the operation. The
+trap is then to be imbedded within the burrow of the mole. Find
+a fresh tunnel and carefully remove the sod above it. Insert the
+trap and replace the turf. The first mole that starts on his rounds
+through that burrow is a sure prisoner, no matter from which side
+he may approach.
+
+Immense numbers of these troublesome vermin have been taken in a
+single season by a dozen such traps, and they possess great advantages
+over all other mole traps on account of their simplicity and unfailing
+success.
+
+
+A FISH TRAP.
+
+Our list of traps would be incomplete without a Fish Trap, and
+although we have mentioned some contrivances in this line under
+our article on "Fishing" we here present one which is both new
+and novel.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Its mode of construction is exactly similar to the Double Box Snare,
+page (57). A section of stove-pipe one foot in length should first
+be obtained. Through the iron at a point equidistant from the ends,
+a hole should be made with some smooth, sharp pointed instrument,
+the latter being forced _outward_ from the _inside_ of the pipe,
+thus causing the ragged edge of the hole to appear on the outside,
+as seen in our illustration. The diameter of the aperture
+[Page 121]
+should be about that of a lead pencil. Considering this as the _upper
+side_ of the pipe, proceed to pierce two more hole's _downward_
+through the side of the circumference, for the admission of a stout
+stick or steel rod. This is fully explained in our illustration. The
+further arrangement of bait stick and nooses is exactly identical
+with that described on page (57). It may be set for suckers, pickerel,
+and fish of like size, the bait stick being inserted with sufficient
+firmness to withstand the attacks of smaller fish. The bait should
+be firmly tied to the stick, or the latter supplied with two hooks
+at the end on which it should be firmly impaled. To set the trap,
+select a locality abounding in fish. Place a stone inside the bottom
+of the pipe, insert the bait stick and arrange the nooses.
+
+By now quietly grasping the curve of the switch the trap may be
+easily lowered to the bottom. The bait soon attracts a multitude
+of small fishes; these in turn attract the pickerel to the spot,
+and before many minutes the trap is sprung and may be raised from
+the water with its prisoner. This odd device is an invention of
+the author's, and it is as successful as it is unique.
+
+[Illustration: Maternal advice.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 123]
+[Illustration: HOUSEHOLD TRAPS]
+
+
+[Page 125]
+BOOK V.
+
+HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.
+
+[Illustration: F]or the most effectual domestic trap on record
+see our page title to this section. There are several others also
+which have done good service in many households, and for the sake
+of pestered housekeepers generally, we devote a corner of our volume
+for their especial benefit.
+
+Foremost in the list of domestic pests the rat stands pre-eminent,
+and his proverbial shrewdness and cunning render his capture often
+a very difficult, if not an impossible task. We subjoin, however,
+a few hints and suggestions of practical value, together with some
+perfected ideas in the shape of traps, by which the average rat
+may be easily outwitted and led to his destruction.
+
+First on the list is
+
+
+THE BARREL TRAP.
+
+This most ingenious device possesses great advantages in its
+capabilities of securing an almost unlimited number of the vermin
+in quick succession. It also takes care of itself, requires no
+re-baiting or setting after once put in working order, and is sure
+death to its prisoners.
+
+A water-tight barrel is the first thing required. Into this pour
+water to the depth of a foot. Next dampen a piece of very thick
+paper, and stretch it over the top of the barrel, tying it securely
+below the upper hoops. When the paper dries it will become thoroughly
+flat and tightened. Its surface should then be strewn with bits
+of cheese, etc., and the barrel so placed
+[Page 126]
+that the rats may jump upon it from some neighboring surface. As
+soon as the bait is gone, a fresh supply should be spread on the
+paper and the same operation repeated for several days, until the
+rats get accustomed to visit the place for their regular rations,
+fearlessly and without suspicion. This is "half the battle," and
+the capture of the greedy victims of misplaced confidence is now
+an easy matter. The bait should again be spread as before and a
+few pieces of the cheese should be attached to the paper with gum.
+It is a good plan to smear parts of the paper with gum arabic,
+sprinkling the bait upon it. When dry, cut a cross in the middle
+of the paper, as seen in the illustration, and leave the barrel
+to take care of itself and the rats. The first one comes along,
+spies the tempting morsels, and with his accustomed confidence,
+jumps upon the paper. He suddenly finds himself in the water at
+the bottom of the barrel, and the paper above has closed and is
+ready to practice its deception on the next comer. There is not
+long to wait. A second victim soon tumbles in to keep company with
+the first. A third and a fourth soon follow, and a dozen or more
+[Page 127]
+are sometimes thus entrapped in a very short space of time. It is a
+most excellent and simple trap, and if properly managed, will most
+effectually curtail the number of rats in any pestered neighborhood.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+By some, it is considered an improvement to place in the bottom
+of the barrel a large stone, which shall project above the water
+sufficiently to offer a foothold for one rat. The first victim,
+of course, takes possession of this retreat and on the precipitate
+arrival of the second a contest ensues for its occupancy. The hubbub
+which follows is said to attract all the rats in the neighborhood
+to the spot, and many are thus captured.
+
+We can hardly recommend the addition of the stone as being an
+improvement. The rat is a most notoriously shrewd and cunning animal,
+and the despairing cries of his comrades must rather tend to excite
+his caution and suspicion. By the first method the drowning is soon
+accomplished and the rat utters no sound whereby to attract and
+warn his fellows. This contrivance has been thoroughly tested and
+has proved its efficacy in many households by completely ridding
+the premises of the vermin.
+
+Another excellent form of Barrel Trap is that embodying the principle
+described in page (131). A circular platform should be first constructed
+and hinged in the opening of the barrel This may be done by driving
+a couple of small nails through the sides of the barrel into a
+couple of staples inserted near the opposite edges of the platform.
+The latter should be delicately weighted, as described on the above
+mentioned page, and previously to setting, should be baited in a
+stationary position for several days to gain the confidence of
+the rats. The bait should at last be secured to the platform with
+gum, and the bottom of the barrel of course filled with water, as
+already described. This trap possesses the same advantages as the
+foregoing. It is _self-setting_, and unfailing in its action.
+
+Another method consists in half-filling the barrel with oats, and
+allowing the rats to enjoy their repast there for several days.
+When thus attracted to the spot, remove the oats, and pour the same
+bulk of water into the barrel, sprinkling the surface thickly with
+the grain. The delusion is almost perfect, as will be effectually
+proven when the first rat visits the spot for his accustomed free
+lunch. Down he goes with a splash, is soon drowned, and sinks to
+the bottom. The next shares the same fate, and several more are
+likely to be added to the list of misguided victims.
+
+[Page 128]
+Many of the devices described throughout this work may be adapted
+for domestic use to good purpose. The box-trap page 103, box-snare,
+page 55, figure-four, page 107, are all suitable for the capture
+of the rat; also, the examples given on pages 106, 109, 110, and
+129.
+
+The steel-trap is often used, but should always be concealed from
+view. It is a good plan to set it in a pan covered with meal, and
+placed in the haunts of the rats. The trap may also be set at the
+mouth of the rats' hole, and covered with a piece of dark-colored
+cloth or paper. The runways between boxes, boards, and the like
+offer excellent situations for the trap, which should be covered,
+as before directed.
+
+Without one precaution, however, the trap may be set in vain. Much
+of the so-called shrewdness of the rat is nothing more than an
+instinctive caution, through the acute sense of smell which the
+animal possesses; and a trap which has secured one victim will
+seldom extend its list, unless all traces of its first occupant
+are thoroughly eradicated. This may be accomplished by smoking
+the trap over burning paper, hens' feathers or chips, taking care
+to avoid a heat so extreme as to affect the temper of the steel
+springs. All rat-traps should be treated the same way, in order to
+insure success, and the position and localities of setting should
+be frequently changed.
+
+
+THE BOX DEAD-FALL.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This trap is an old invention, simplified by the author, and for
+the capture of rats and mice will prove very effectual. It consists
+of a box, constructed of four slabs of 3-4 inch boarding, and open
+at both ends. The two side boards should be 10 x 18 inches; top
+and bottom boards, 6 x 18 inches. For the centre of the latter,
+a square piece should be removed by the aid of the saw. The width
+of this piece should be four inches, and the length eight inches.
+Before nailing the boards together, the holes thus left in the
+bottom board should be supplied with a treadle platform, working
+on central side pivots. The board for this treadle should be much
+thinner and lighter than the rest of the trap, and should fit loosely
+in place, its surface being slightly below the level of the bottom
+board. This is shown in the interior of the trap. The pivots should
+be inserted in the exact centre of the sides, through holes made
+in the edge of the bottom board. These holes may be bored with
+a gimlet or burned with a red-hot wire. The pivots may
+[Page 129]
+consist of stout brass or iron wire; and the end of one should
+be flattened with the hammer, as seen in (_a_). This pivot should
+project an inch from the wood, and should be _firmly_ inserted
+in the treadle-piece. The platform being thus arranged, proceed
+to fasten the boards together, as shown in the illustration, the
+top and bottom boards overlapping the others. We will now give
+our attention to the stick shown at (_b_). This should be whittled
+from a piece of hard wood, its length being three inches, and its
+upper end pointed as seen. The lower end should be pierced with a
+crevice, which should then be forced over the flattened extremity
+of the point (_a_) as shown at (_c_), pointed end uppermost. The
+weight (_d_) is next in order. This should consist of a heavy oak
+plank two inches in thickness, and of such other dimensions as will
+allow it to fit loosely in the box, and fall from top to bottom
+therein without catching between two sides. A stout staple should
+be driven in the centre of its upper face, and from this a stout
+string should be passed upward through a hole in the centre of
+the box. We are now ready for the spindle (_e_). This should be
+about three inches in length, and bluntly pointed
+[Page 130]
+at each end, a notch being made to secure it at a point five inches
+above the pivot (_c_). To set the trap, raise the weight, as seen
+in the illustration; draw down the string to the point (_e_), and
+attach it to the spindle one-half an inch from its upper end, which
+should then be inserted in the notch, the lower end being caught
+against the extremity of the pivot stick. The parts are now adjusted,
+and even in the present state the trap is almost sure to spring at
+the slightest touch on the treadle-piece. An additional precaution
+is advisable, however. Two small wooden pegs (_f_) should be driven,
+one on each side of the spindle, thus preventing any side-movement
+of the latter. It will now be readily seen that the slightest weight
+on either end of the treadle-piece within the trap must tilt it
+to one side, thus throwing the pivot-piece from its bearing on
+the spindle; and the latter being released, lets fall the weight
+with crushing effect upon the back of its hapless victim.
+
+The trap is very effective, and is easily constructed. The bait
+should be rested in the centre of the treadle platform. Built on
+a larger scale, this device may be successfully adapted to the
+capture of the mink, martien, and many other varieties of game.
+
+
+THE BOARD-FLAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 131]
+For the capture of mice this is both a simple and effective contrivance,
+and it may be enlarged so as to be of good service for larger animals.
+Procure two boards, one foot square and one inch thick, and secure
+them together by two hinges, as in the illustration. Assuming one
+as the upper board, proceed to bore a gimlet hole three inches
+from the hinges. This is for the reception of the bait stick, and
+should be cut away on the inside, as seen in the section (_a_),
+thus allowing a free play for the stick. Directly beneath this
+aperture, and in the lower board, a large auger hole should be made.
+A stout bit of iron wire, ten inches in length, is now required.
+This should be inserted perpendicularly in the further end of the
+lower slab, being bent into a curve which shall slide easily through
+a gimlet hole in the edge of the upper board. This portion is very
+important, and should be carefully constructed. The bait stick
+should be not more than three inches in length, supplied with a
+notch in its upper end, and secured in the aperture in the board by
+the aid of a pivot and staples, as is clearly shown in our drawing.
+The spindle is next in order. It should consist of a light piece
+of pine eight and a half inches in length, and brought to an edge
+at each end. A tack should now be driven at the further edge of
+the upper board on a line with the aperture through which the wire
+passes. Our illustration represents the trap as it appears when
+set. The upper band is raised to the full limit of the wire. One
+end of the spindle is now adjusted beneath the head of the tack,
+and the other in the notch in the bait stick. The wire thus supports
+the suspended board by sustaining the spindle, which is held in
+equilibrium. A slight touch on the bait stick soon destroys this
+equilibrium: a flap ensues, and a dead mouse is the result. The
+object of the auger hole in the lower board consists in affording a
+receptacle for the bait when the boards come together, as otherwise
+it would defeat its object, by offering an obstruction to the fall
+of the board, and thus allow its little mouse to escape.
+
+It is, therefore, an essential part of the trap, and should be carefully
+tested before being finally set.
+
+
+THE BOX PIT-FALL.
+
+We now come to a variety of trap which differs in its construction
+from any previously described. It secures its victims alive, and
+without harm, and, when well made, is very successful.
+[Page 132]
+It may be set for squirrels, chipmunks, rats, mice, and the like,
+and on a large scale for muskrats and mink.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The trap is very easily made, and is represented in section in
+our illustration, showing the height and interior of the box. For
+ordinary purposes the box should be about twelve or fourteen inches
+square, with a depth of about eighteen inches. A platform consisting
+of a piece of tin should then be procured. This should be just
+large enough to fit nicely to the outline of the interior of the
+box without catching. On two opposite sides of this piece of tin,
+and at the middle of each of those sides, a small strip of the
+same material should be wired, or soldered in the form of a loop,
+as shown in the separate diagram at (_b_). These loops should be
+only large enough to admit the end of a shingle-nail. A scratch
+should now be made across the tin from loop to loop, and on the
+centre of this scratch another and larger strip of tin should be
+fastened in a similar manner as shown in our diagram, at (_a_),
+this being for the balance weight. The
+[Page 133]
+latter may consist of a small stone, piece of lead, or the like,
+and should be suspended by means of a wire bent around it, and
+secured in a hole in the tin by a bend or knot in the other extremity.
+Further explanations are almost superfluous, as our main illustration
+fully explains itself.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+After the weight is attached, the platform should be secured in
+its place, about five inches from the top of the box. To accomplish
+this and form the hinges, two shingle-nails should be driven through
+the side of the box into the tin loops prepared for them. To do
+this nicely requires some considerable accuracy and care, and it
+should be so done that the platform will swing with perfect freedom
+and ease, the weight below bringing it to a horizontal poise after
+a few vibrations. Care should be taken that the weight is not too
+heavy, as, in such a case, the platform will not be sensitive on its
+balance, and, consequently, would not work so quickly and surely.
+The weight should be _just heavy enough_ to restore the platform
+to its perfect poise, and no more. This can be easily regulated
+by experiment. The bait should then be strewn on both sides of the
+platform, when the trap is set, and the luckless animal, jumping
+after the bait, feels his footing give way, and suddenly finds
+himself in the bottom of a dark box, from which it is impossible
+for him to escape except by gnawing his way out. To prevent this,
+the interior of the box may be lined with tin.
+
+By _fastening_ the bait--a small lump or piece--on each side of
+the tin, the trap will continually reset itself, and, in this way,
+two or three individuals may be taken, one after the other. Muskrats
+are frequently caught in this trap, it being generally buried in
+the ground so that its top is on a level with the surface. In this
+case it is necessary to arrange the platform lower down in the
+box, and the latter should be of much larger dimensions than the
+one we have described.
+
+[Page 134]
+For ordinary purposes the box should either be set in the ground or
+placed near some neighboring object which will afford easy access
+to it. No less than a dozen rats have been caught in a trap of
+this kind in a single night.
+
+
+CAGE TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The common cage trap is well known to most of our readers, and for
+the capture of rats and mice, it is one of the most efficacious
+devices in existence. The construction of one of these traps is
+quite a difficult operation, and we would hesitate before advising
+our inventive reader to exercise his patience and ingenuity in the
+manufacture of an article which can be bought for such a small
+price, and which, after all, is only a mouse trap. If it were a
+device for the capture of the _mink_ or _otter_, it might then be
+well worth the trouble, and would be likely to repay the time and
+labor expended upon it. We imagine that few would care to exercise
+their skill over a trap of such complicated structure, while our
+pages are filled with other simpler and equally effective examples.
+
+For the benefit, however, of such as are of an inventive turn of
+mind, we subjoin an illustration of the trap to serve as a guide.
+The principle upon which it works is very simple. The bait is
+[Page 135]
+strewn inside the cage, and the rats or mice find their only access
+to it through the hole at the top. The wires here converge at the
+bottom, and are pointed at the ends. The passage downwards is an
+easy matter, but to _escape_ through the same opening is impossible,
+as the pointed ends of the wires effectually prevent the ascent.
+It is a notable fact, however, that the efforts to escape through
+this opening are very seldom made. The mode of entering seems to
+be absolutely forgotten by the captive animals, and they rush
+frantically about the cage, prying between all the wires in their
+wild endeavors, never seeming to notice the central opening by which
+they entered. This is easily explained by the fact that the open
+grating admits the light from all sides, and the enclosed victims
+are thus attracted to no one spot in particular, and naturally rush
+to the extreme edges of the trap, in the hope of finding an exit.
+
+If a thick cloth be placed over the cage, leaving the opening at
+the top uncovered, the confined creatures are soon attracted by
+the light, and lose no time in rushing towards it, where their
+endeavors to ascend are effectually checked by the pointed wires.
+Profiting by this experiment, the author once improvised a simple
+trap on the same principle, which proved very effectual. We will
+call it
+
+
+THE JAR TRAP.
+
+In place of the wire cage, a glass preserve-jar was substituted.
+A few bits of cheese were then dropped inside, and the top of a
+funnel inserted into the opening above. This completed the trap,
+and it was set on the floor near the flour barrel. On the following
+morning the jar was occupied by a little mouse, and each successive
+night for a week added one to the list of victims. A stiff piece
+of tin, bent into the required shape, may be substituted for the
+funnel top, or even a very heavy piece of pasteboard might answer.
+
+
+BOWL TRAPS.
+
+Very effective extempore traps may be set up in a few minutes by
+the use of a few bowls. There are two methods commonly employed.
+One consists of the bowl and a knife-blade. An ordinary tableknife
+is used and a piece of cheese is firmly forced on to the end of
+the blade, the bowl is then balanced on the edge, allowing the
+bait to project about an inch and a half beneath the bowl. The odor
+of cheese will attract a mouse almost anywhere, and he soon finds
+[Page 136]
+his way to the tempting morsel in this case. A very slight nibble
+is sufficient to tilt the blade and the bowl falls over its prisoner.
+
+In the second method a thimble is used in place of the knife. The
+cheese is forced into its interior, and the open end of the thimble
+inserted far beneath the bowl, allowing about half its length to
+project outward.
+
+The mouse is thus obliged to pass under the bowl in order to reach
+the bait, and in his efforts to grasp the morsel, the thimble is
+dislodged and the captive secured beneath the vessel. Where a small
+thimble is used, it becomes necessary to place a bit of pasteboard
+or flat chip beneath it, in order to raise it sufficiently to afford
+an easy passage for the mouse. Both of these devices are said to
+work excellently.
+
+
+FLY PAPER.
+
+A sheet of common paper, smeared with a mixture composed of molasses
+one part, and bird-lime six parts (see page 97), will be found to
+attract large numbers of flies and hold them prisoners upon its
+surface.
+
+Spruce gum, warmed on the fire, and mixed with a little linseed
+oil, is also excellent. For a genuine fly trap, the following stands
+unrivalled.
+
+
+FLY TRAP.
+
+Take a tumbler, and half-fill it with strong soap suds. Cut a circle
+of stiff paper which will exactly fit into the top of the glass.
+In the centre of the paper cut a hole half an inch in diameter,
+or, better still, a slice of bread may be placed on the glass.
+Smear one side of the disc with molasses, and insert it in the
+tumbler with this side downward. Swarms of flies soon surround
+it, and one by one find their way downward through the hole. Once
+below the paper, and their doom is sealed. For a short time the
+molasses absorbs their attention, and they, in turn, absorb the
+molasses.
+
+In their efforts to escape, they one by one precipitate themselves
+in the soap suds below, where they speedily perish. The tumbler
+is soon half-filled with the dead insects, and where a number of
+the traps are set in a single room, the apartment is soon ridden
+of the pests.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 137]
+BOOK VI.
+
+STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.
+
+[Illustration: P]assing from our full and extended illustrated list
+of extempore, or "rough and ready" examples of the trap kind, we
+will now turn our attention to the consideration of that well-known
+implement, the trade _steel_ trap. Although the foregoing varieties
+often serve to good purpose, the Steel Trap is the principal device
+used by professional trappers, and possesses great advantages over
+all other traps. It is portable, sets easily and quickly, either on
+land or beneath the water; can be concealed with ease; secures its
+victims without injury to their fur, and by the application of the
+spring or sliding pole (hereafter described) will most effectually
+prevent the captive from making his escape by self-amputation, besides
+placing him beyond the reach of destruction by other animals.
+
+The author has known trappers who have plied their vocation largely
+by the aid of the various hand made traps, described in the earlier
+pages of this book, and with good success. But in the regular _business_
+of systematic trapping, their extensive use is not common. The
+experience of modern trappers generally, warrants the assertion
+that for practical utility, from every point of view, the steel
+trap stands unrivalled.
+
+These traps are made of all sizes, from that suitable for the capture
+of the house rat, to the immense and wieldy machine adapted to the
+grizzly, and known as the "bear tamer."
+
+They may be bought at almost any hardware shop, although a large
+portion of the traps ordinarily sold are defective. They should
+be selected with care, and the springs always tested
+[Page 138]
+before purchase. Besides the temper of the spring, there are also
+other necessary qualities in a steel trap, which we subjoin in
+order that the amateur may know how to judge and select his weapons
+judiciously.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+REQUISITES OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.
+
+1. _The jaws should not be too thin nor sharp cornered_. In the
+cheaper class of steel traps the jaws approach to the thinness
+of sheet-iron, and the result is that the thin edges often sever
+the leg of their would-be captive in a single stroke. At other
+times the leg is so deeply cut as to easily enable the animal to
+gnaw or twist it off. This is the common mode of escape, with many
+animals.
+
+2. _The pan should not be too large_. This is a very common fault
+with many steel traps and often defeats its very object. Where the
+pan is small, the foot of the animal in pressing it, will be directly
+in the centre of the snap of the jaw, and he is thus firmly secured
+far up on the leg. On the other hand, a large pan nearly filling
+the space between the jaws as the trap is set, may be sprung by a
+touch on its extreme edge, and the animal's toe is thus likely to
+get slightly pinched, if indeed the paw is not thrown off altogether
+by the forcible snap of the jaw.
+
+3. _The springs should be strong, scientifically tempered, and
+proportioned_. The strength of a perfectly tempered spring will
+always remain the same, whether in winter or summer, never losing
+its elasticity. The best of tempering, however, is useless in a
+spring badly formed or clumsily tapered.
+
+4. The jaws should be so curved as to give the bow of the spring
+a proper sweep to work upon. The jaws should lie _flat_ when open,
+and should always work easily on their hinges.
+
+5. Every trap should be furnished with a strong chain with ring and
+swivel attached, and in every case the swivel should turn easily.
+
+The celebrated "Newhouse Trap" embodies all the above requisites,
+and has deservedly won a reputation for excellence second to no
+other in this or any other country.
+
+They are made in eight sizes, as follows:
+
+[Illustration: No. 0.]
+
+This is the smallest size and is known as the RAT TRAP. It has a
+single spring, and the jaws spread three and a half inches when
+set.
+
+[Page 139]
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 141]
+[Illustration: No. 1.]
+
+This size is called the MUSKRAT TRAP, and the jaws spread four
+inches. It is especially designed for the capture of the mink, marten,
+and animals of similar size.
+
+[Illustration: No. 2.]
+
+This is known in the trade as the MINK TRAP, and the jaws spread
+nearly five inches. It is adapted for the fox, raccoon, or fisher.
+
+[Illustration: No. 2-1/2.]
+
+This size is called the FOX TRAP. The spread of the jaws is the
+same as in the foregoing, but the trap is provided with two springs,
+and consequently has double the power. It is strong enough for
+the otter, and is generally used for the capture of the fox and
+fisher.
+
+[Illustration: No. 3.]
+
+No.3 goes by the name of the OTTER TRAP. The jaws spread five and
+a half inches, and the powerful double springs do excellent service
+in the capture of the beaver, fox, badger, opossum, wild cat, and
+animals of like size.
+
+[Illustration: No. 4.]
+
+Commonly called the BEAVER TRAP. Jaws spread six and a half inches.
+This size is especially adapted to the wolf, lynx or wolverine. It
+may also be set for deer, and extra sets of jaws are made expressly
+for this purpose, being easily inserted in the place of the ordinary
+jaws, when desired.
+
+[Page 142]
+[Illustration: No. 6.]
+
+This is known as the "GREAT BEAR TAMER," and is a most formidable
+weapon. The jaws spread sixteen inches, and the weight of the machine
+is forty-two pounds. It is extensively used in the capture of the
+moose and grizzly bear, and is the largest and most powerful steel
+trap made in this or any other country. The springs possess most
+tremendous power, and require to be set by a lever, as the weight
+of an ordinary man has not the slightest effect upon them. This
+lever may be easily applied, as follows: Have at hand four stout
+straps, supplied with buckles. These should always be carried by
+the trapper, where the larger double-spring traps are used. To
+adjust the lever, cut four heavy sticks about three feet long.
+Take two of them and secure their ends together, side by side,
+with one of the straps. Now insert the spring of the trap between
+them, near the strap. Bear down heavily on the other extremity of
+the lever, and the spring will be found to yield easily, after
+which the remaining ends of the levers should be secured by a second
+strap. The other spring should now be treated in the same way,
+after which the jaws should be spread and the pan adjusted. The
+removal of the straps and levers is now an easy matter, after which
+[Page 143]
+the trap is set. The stoutest spring is easily made to yield by such
+treatment.
+
+[Illustration: No. 5.]
+
+The SMALL BEAR TRAP. The jaws of this size spread nearly a foot,
+and the weight of the trap is seventeen pounds. It is used in the
+capture of the black bear, puma, and animals of similar size.
+
+All of the foregoing are supplied with swivels and chains.
+
+
+HINTS ON BAITING THE STEEL TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is a very common and erroneous idea current among amateur
+sportsmen and others in regard to the baiting of the steel trap;
+viz., that the pan of the trap is intended for the _bait_. This
+was the old custom in the traps of bygone times, but no modern
+trap is intended to be so misused, and would indeed often defeat
+its object in such a case, wherein it will be easily
+[Page 144]
+seen. The object of the professional trapper is the acquisition
+of furs; and a prime fur skin should be without break or bruise,
+from nose to tail. A trap set as above described, would of course
+catch its victim by the head or neck, and the fur would be more
+or less injured at the very spot where it should be particularly
+free from blemish.
+
+The true object of the steel trap is, that it shall take the animal
+by the _leg_, thus injuring the skin only in a part where it is
+totally valueless.
+
+We give, then, this imperative rule--_Never bait a steel trap on
+the pan_.
+
+The pan is intended for the _foot_ of the game, and in order to
+insure capture by this means, the bait should be so placed as that
+the attention of the animal will be _drawn away_ from the trap;
+the latter being in such a position as will cause the victim to
+_step in it_ when reaching for the tempting allurement.
+
+There are several ways of doing this, one of which we here illustrate.
+
+A pen of stakes, in the shape of the letter V, is first constructed.
+The trap is then set in the angle, and the bait attached to the
+end stake directly over it. Another method is shown in the picture
+on our title-page to this section, the bait being suspended on a
+stick above the trap. There are various other methods on the same
+principle, which will be described hereafter, under the titles of
+the various game.
+
+
+THE SPRING POLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is nearly always used in connection with the steel trap, in
+the capture of the smaller land animals. It not only lifts the
+creature into the air, and thus prevents its becoming a prey to
+other animals, but it also guards against the escape of the victim
+by the amputation of its own leg. This is a very common mode of
+release with many kinds of game--notably the mink, marten, and
+muskrat; and for the successful trapping of these, as well as many
+other animals, the spring and sliding pole are absolute necessities.
+It is a simple contrivance, consisting merely of a pole inserted
+in the ground near the trap. The pole is then bent down, and the
+trap chain secured to its end. A small, notched peg is next driven
+into the ground and the top of the pole caught in it, and thus
+held in a bent position. When the animal is caught, its struggles
+release the pole, and the latter, flying up with a jerk,
+[Page 145]
+lifts the trap and its occupant high in the air, out of the reach
+of marauders, and beyond the power of escape by self-amputation.
+Even in the capture of large game the spring pole often serves to
+good purpose. The struggles of a heavy animal are often so violent
+as to break a stout trap or chain; and the force of the spring
+pole, although not sufficient to raise the animal from its feet,
+often succeeds in easing the strain, and often thus saves a trap
+from being broken to pieces. The power of the pole must of course
+be proportionate to the weight of the desired game.
+
+
+THE SLIDING POLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first impulse with almost every aquatic animal when caught in
+a trap, is to plunge headlong into deep water. With the smaller
+animals, such as the mink and muskrat, this is all that is desired by
+the trapper, as the weight of the trap with the chain is sufficient
+to drown its victim. But with larger animals, the beaver and otter
+for instance, an additional precaution, in the shape of the "sliding
+pole," is necessary. This consists of a pole about ten feet long,
+smoothly trimmed of its branches, excepting at the tip, where a
+few stubs should be left. Insert this end obliquely into the bed
+of the stream, where the water is
+[Page 146]
+deep, and secure the large end to the bank by means of a hooked
+stick, as seen in our illustration. The ring of the chain should
+be large enough to slide easily down the entire length of the pole.
+When the trap is set, the ring should be slipped on the large end
+of the pole, and held in place by resting a stick against it. The
+animal, when caught, plunges off into deep water, and guided by
+the pole, is led to the bottom of the river. The ring slides down
+to the bed of the stream, and there holds its victim until drowned.
+
+
+THE CLOG.
+
+A trap which is set for heavy game should never be secured to a
+stake. Many of the larger and more powerful animals when caught
+in a trap thus secured, are apt either to pull or twist their legs
+off, or break both trap and chain to pieces. To guard against this,
+the chain should be weighted with a pole or small log, of a size
+proportionate to the dimensions of the game, its weight being merely
+sufficient to offer a serious incumbrance to the animal, without
+positively checking its movements. This impediment is called the
+"clog," and is usually attached to the ring of the trap chain by
+its larger end, the ring being slipped over the latter, and secured
+in place by a wedge. A look at our frontispiece will give a clear
+idea of both clog and attachment.
+
+
+[Page 147]
+THE GRAPPLING IRON.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This answers the same purpose as the above, and is often used instead.
+It is manufactured in connection with the larger steel traps, and
+is attached to the chain by a swivel joint. Its general shape is
+shown in an engraving, and it offers a serious resistance to the
+victim, who endeavors to run away with it.
+
+
+THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING.
+
+The business of trapping for profit must be confined to the season
+between the first of October and the beginning of May, as furs
+of all kinds are worthless when taken during the other months of
+the year. The reason for this is obvious. A "_prime fur_" must be
+"_thick_" and "_full_," and as all our fur-bearing animals shed
+their heavy winter coats as warm weather approaches, it necessarily
+follows that the capture at this season would be unprofitable. As
+the autumn approaches the new growth appears, and the fur becomes
+thick and glossy. By the middle of October most furs are in their
+prime, but the heart of winter is the best time for general trapping.
+[Page 148]
+The furs of the mink, muskrat, fisher, marten and beaver are not in
+their perfect prime until this season. And _all_ other furs are
+_sure_ to be in good condition at this time.
+
+
+THE ART OF TRAPPING.
+
+From time immemorial, and in every nation of the world, the art
+of trapping has been more or less practised. By some as a means
+of supplying their wants in the shape of daily food, and by others
+for the purpose of merchandise or profit.
+
+To be a clever and successful trapper, much more is required than
+is generally supposed. The mere fact of a person's being able to
+set a trap cleverly and judiciously forms but a small part of his
+proficiency; and unless he enters deeper into the subject and learns
+something of the nature and habits of the animals he intends to
+catch, his traps will be set in vain, or at best meet with but
+indifferent success. The study of natural history here becomes
+a matter of necessity as well as pleasure and profit. And unless
+the trapper thoroughly acquaints himself with the habits of his
+various game, the sagacity and cunning of his intended victim will
+often outwit his most shrewd endeavors, much to his chagrin. The
+sense of smell, so largely developed in many animals, becomes one
+of the trappers most serious obstacles, and seems at times to amount
+almost to positive _reason_, so perfectly do the creatures baffle
+the most ingenious attempts of man in his efforts to capture them.
+A little insight into the ways of these artful animals, however,
+and a little experience with their odd tricks soon enables one
+to cope with them successfully and overcome their whims. For the
+benefit of the amateur who has not had the opportunity of studying
+for himself, the peculiarities of the various game, the author
+appends a comprehensive chapter on "Practical Natural History,"
+in which will be found full accounts of the peculiar habits and
+leading characteristics of all the various animals commonly sought
+by the trapper, together with detailed directions for trapping
+each variety, supplemented with a faithful portrait of the animal
+in nearly every instance. A careful reading of the above mentioned
+chapter will do much towards acquainting the novice with the ways
+of the sly creatures, which he hopes to victimize, and will thus
+prepare him to contend with them successfully.
+
+In the art of trapping the bait is often entirely dispensed with,
+the traps being set and carefully concealed in the _runways_ of
+the various animals. These by-paths are easily detected by an
+[Page 149]
+experienced trapper, and are indicated either by footprints or
+other evidences of the animal, together with the matted leaves and
+broken twigs and grasses.
+
+Natural channels, such as hollow logs or crevices between rocks
+or fallen trees, offer excellent situations for steel traps, and a
+good trapper is always on the _qui vive_ for such chance advantages,
+thus often saving much of the time and labor which would otherwise
+be spent in the building of artificial enclosures, etc.
+
+The most effective baits used in the art of trapping are those
+which are used to attract the animal through its sense of smell, as
+distinct from that of its mere appetite for food. These baits are
+known in the profession as "medicine," or scent baits and possess
+the most remarkable power of attracting the various animals from
+great distances, and leading them almost irresistibly to any desired
+spot. Such is the barks tone or castoreum, of such value in the
+capture of the beaver, and the oil of anise, so commonly used for
+the trapping of animals in general. These various substances will
+presently be considered under their proper heading.
+
+Many detailed and specific directions on the subject of trapping
+will be found in the long chapter following; and, in closing our
+preliminary remarks, we would add just one more word of general
+caution, which the young trapper should always bear in mind.
+
+In all cases avoid handling the trap with the bare hand. Many an
+amateur has set and _reset_ his traps in vain, and retired from the
+field of trapping in disgust, from the mere want of observing this
+rule. Animals of keen scent are quick in detecting the slightest
+odors, and that left by the touch of a human hand often suffices to
+drive the creature away from a trap which, under other circumstances,
+would have been its certain destruction. To be sure the various
+scent baits already alluded to, will in a measure overcome human
+traces, but not always effectually, and in order to insure success no
+precautions so simple should be neglected. A pair of clean buckskin
+gloves are valuable requisites to the trapper, and should always
+be "on hand" when setting or transporting traps.
+
+
+"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS.
+
+These form one of the most important requisites of the trapper's
+art. A trap baited simply with the food of the
+[Page 150]
+required animal, may and often will be successful, but with the
+addition of the trapper's "medicine" judicially applied, success
+is almost a certainty. These scent baits are of various kinds,
+some being almost universal in their usefulness, while others are
+attractive only to some particular species of animal. We give a
+few of the recipes of the most valued preparations used by trappers
+throughout the land. The application and use of each is fully described
+in its proper place hereafter.
+
+
+CASTOREUM.
+
+This substance, commonly known as "_Barkstone_," by trappers and
+fur dealers, is obtained from the beaver, and is a remarkable aid in
+the capture of that animal. It is an acrid secretion of a powerful
+musky odor, found in two glands beneath the root of the tail of
+the beaver. These glands are about two inches in length. They are
+cut out and the contents are squeezed into a small bottle. When
+fresh the substance is of a yellowish-red color, changing to a
+light-brown when dried. Both male and female animals yield the
+castoreum, but that of the male is generally considered the best.
+Castoreum is a commercial drug, and in many beaver countries it
+is quite an article of trade. There are other sacs lying directly
+behind the castor glands which contain a strong oil of rancid smell.
+This should not be confounded with the Castoreum.
+
+
+CASTOREUM COMPOSITION.
+
+The Barkstone is used both pure and in combination with other
+substances, the following prescription being much used: Into the
+contents of about ten of the castor bags, mix two ground nutmegs,
+thirty or forty cloves, also powdered, one drop essence of peppermint,
+and about two thimblefuls of ground cinnamon. Into this stir as
+much whisky as will give the whole the consistency of paste, after
+which the preparation should be bottled and kept carefully corked.
+At the expiration of a few days the odor increases ten-fold in power
+and is ready for use. A bottle, if thus prepared, will retain its
+strength for nearly a half year, provided it is kept closely corked.
+A few drops of either the pure castoreum or the combination spread
+upon the bait or in the neighborhood of the trap, as described
+under the chapter on the Beaver, will entice that animal from a
+great distance.
+
+
+[Page 151]
+MUSK.
+
+This substance is a secretion obtained from several different animals,
+notably the otter and muskrat. The glands which contain it are
+located similarly to the castor glands of the beaver, and the musk
+should be discharged into a vial, as previously described. The
+musk of the female muskrat is said to be the most powerful, and
+is chiefly used by trappers in the capture of that animal, the
+otter being chiefly attracted by its own musk.
+
+
+ASSAFOETIDA.
+
+This foul smelling production seems to have a specially attractive
+fragrance to many animals, and for general use is much esteemed by
+trappers. It is a vegetable drug from Persia and the East Indies,
+and is imported in the form of concrete juice, of a brown color.
+
+
+OIL OF RHODIUM.
+
+This is a vegetable oil obtained from a species of rose, and is
+quite costly. Its power of attracting animals is surprising, and
+it is in very common use among trappers.
+
+
+FISH OIL.
+
+This is especially useful in the capture of the majority of the
+fur tribe, and particularly the water animals.
+
+The oil may be bought ready for use, or prepared with little trouble.
+The common method consists in cutting up fish of any kind, especially
+eels, into small bits, putting them in a bottle, and setting the
+latter in the full exposure to the sun. It should thus be left
+for about two weeks, at the end of which time a rancid oil will
+have formed. A few drops of this oil will entice many animals from
+surprising distances, often drawing their attention to a bait which
+otherwise they might never have scented.
+
+
+OIL OF SKUNK.
+
+This, the _ne plus ultra_, or quintessence of diabolical stench,
+yields the tempting savor which irresistibly attracts many animals
+to their final doom. It is contained in a pouch beneath the insertion
+of the tail of the animal, and is spread abroad by the
+[Page 152]
+creature with lavish extravagance when circumstances demand, or we
+might say when occasion permits. It may be taken from the animal
+and bottled as already described in other instances, chloride of
+lime being used to eradicate the stench from the hands.
+
+
+OIL OF AMBER.
+
+This substance is frequently referred to in the following pages,
+and is a vegetable product of the amber gum of commerce. The Oil
+of Ambergris is also sometimes used by trappers, and is likewise
+known as Amber Oil. The two are thus often confounded, although
+the former is supposed to be most generally used.
+
+
+OIL OF ANISE.
+
+This is strongly recommended by many trappers as a most excellent
+"universal medicine." It is a vegetable product, and is obtainable
+at any drug store.
+
+SWEET FENNEL.
+
+This plant is commonly cultivated all over the United States, and
+the seeds are often powdered and used as a scent bait. The Oil of
+Fennel is preferable, however, and may be had at almost any drug
+store.
+
+
+CUMMIN.
+
+This is another plant, somewhat resembling the former, and, like
+it, cultivated for its seeds. It has an aromatic taste, and its
+strong pungent odor renders it of great value to the trapper. The
+seeds may be powdered and thus used, or the oil of the plant may
+be easily procured. The latter is preferable.
+
+
+FENUGREEK.
+
+Like the two foregoing this plant is valuable for its seeds, which
+are used for medicinal purposes. The oil or bruised seeds may be
+used.
+
+
+LAVENDER.
+
+This is another aromatic plant, the oil of which, either pure or
+diluted with alcohol, is much used in the trapper's art.
+
+
+[Page 153]
+COMPOUND.
+
+For ordinary use, a mixture of Assafoetida, Musk, Oil of Anise,
+and Fish Oil, together with a few drops of the Oil of Rhodium, is
+especially recommended by our most skilled trappers. This preparation
+contains the various substances which are known to attract the
+different fur bearing animals, and its use often insures success
+where anyone of the simple substances would be ineffectual.
+
+
+THE TRAIL.
+
+The object of the "trail" consists in offering a leading scent
+which, when followed, will bring the animal to the various traps,
+and when properly made will be the means of drawing large numbers
+of game from all quarters and from great distances, whereas without
+it the traps might remain undiscovered.
+
+Trails are sometimes made to connect a line of traps, as when set
+along the banks of streams for mink, etc., at other times, as in
+trapping the fox, for instance, they should extend from the trap on
+all sides, like the spokes of a wheel from the hub, thus covering
+considerable area, and rendering success more certain than it would
+be without this precaution.
+
+The combination "medicine" just described is excellent for the
+purposes of a trail for minks, otter, muskrat, and many other animals.
+
+Soak a piece of meat, or piece of wood in the preparation, and
+drag it along the ground between the traps. A dead fish smeared
+with the fluid will also answer the same purpose. The soles of
+the boots may also be smeared with the "medicine" and the trail
+thus accomplished. Trails of various kinds are considered under
+their respective and appropriate heads in the chapters on animals,
+all of which will be found useful and effective.
+
+
+HOW TO TRAP.
+
+In the following pages will be found full and ample directions
+for the trapping of all our leading game, together with detailed
+descriptions of peculiar habits of each species. The various articles
+contain careful descriptions, whereby the species may be readily
+recognized, and, in nearly every case, are accompanied by faithful
+illustrations. We add also valuable directions for the best manner of
+removing the skin of each animal, this being a matter of considerable
+importance, as affecting their pecuniary value.
+
+
+[Page 154]
+THE FOX.
+
+Foremost in the list of animals noted for their sly craft, and
+the hero of a host of fables and well-authenticated stories, in
+which artful cunning gains the advantage over human intelligence,
+Reynard, the fox, reigns supreme. There is scarcely a professional
+trapper in the land who has not, in his day, been hoodwinked by the
+wily strategy of this sly creature, whose extreme cunning renders
+him the most difficult of all animals to trap. The fox belongs to
+the Dog family, and there are six varieties inhabiting the United
+States. The red species is the most common and is too well known
+to need a description here. The Cross Fox considerably resembles
+the above, only being much darker in color, the red hair being
+thickly speckled with black. This species varies considerably in
+color in different individuals, often much resembling the red variety,
+and again approaching nearer in color to the Black or Silver Fox.
+This variation, together with the name of the animal, has given
+rise among trappers to the wide-spread belief of the animal being
+a cross between the two species which it so nearly resembles. It
+seems to be a permanent variety, however, the term cross being
+applied, we believe, on account of a dark marking on the back,
+between the shoulders of the animal, suggestive of that title.
+The Silver or Black Fox is the most beautiful and most rare of the
+genus, and yields the most valuable fur produced in this country.
+Its color is black, with the exception of the tip of the tail,
+which is white. The Prairie Fox is the largest of the species. It
+inhabits the Western Prairies, and in color resembles the common
+red variety, only being a trifle yellower.
+
+The Kit, or Swift Fox, is smaller than the Red, and abounds in the
+Western States.
+
+The Gray Fox is a Southern variety, and is very beautiful. It is
+less daring and cunning than the Common Fox, and seldom approaches
+a farm-yard, where it is in close proximity to a dwelling.
+
+The general habits and characteristics of all the foxes are similar.
+For natural cunning they take the lead of all other animals. They
+are all built for speed, and their senses of smell and hearing
+are acutely developed. Their food consists of wild fowl of all
+kinds, rabbits, squirrels, birds and their eggs, together with
+many kinds of ripe fruits, "sour grapes" not included. They live
+in burrows, often usurped, or crevices between rocks; and their
+[Page 155]
+young, from three to nine in number, are brought forth in March.
+
+We are strongly tempted to narrate a few remarkable instances of
+the animal's cunning, but we forbear for want of space. Our reader
+must take it for granted that when he attempts to trap a fox, he
+will be likely to find more than his match in the superior craftiness
+of that animal. If the trap is overturned and the bait gone, or if
+repeatedly sprung and found empty, he must not be surprised or
+discouraged, for he is experiencing only what all other trappers
+have experienced before him. There are instances on record where
+this knowing creature has sprung the trap by dropping a stick upon
+the pan, afterwards removing the suspended bait to enjoy it at
+his leisure. His movements are as lithe and subtile as those of
+a snake, and when "cornered" there is no telling what caper that
+cunning instinct and subtlety of body will not lead him to perform.
+When pursued by hounds he has been known to lead them a long chase
+at full speed up to the crest of a hill: here he leaps a shrub,
+swiftly as an arrow, and landing on the ground on the opposite
+declivity quickly returns beneath the brushwood and crouches down
+closely upon the ground. Presently the hounds come along in full
+cry, and blazing scent they dart over the shrub in full pursuit,
+dash down the hillside, never stopping until at the bottom of the
+hill they find they are off the trail. As soon as the hounds are
+passed, sly Reynard cautiously takes to his legs: creeping adroitly
+back over the brow of the hill, he runs for a considerable distance
+on his back trail, and at last, after taking a series of long jumps
+therefrom returns to his covert at leisure. Page after page might
+be filled to the glory of this creature's cunning, but enough has
+been said to give the young trapper an insight into the character
+of the animal he hopes to victimize, and prepare him for a trial
+of skill which, without this knowledge, would be a most one-sided
+affair.
+
+We would not advise our young amateur to calculate very confidently
+on securing a fox at the first attempt, but we can truthfully vouch
+that if the creature can be _caught at all_, it can be done by
+following the directions we now give.
+
+One of the most essential things in the trapping of this, as well
+as nearly all animals, is that the trap should be _perfectly clean
+and free from rust_. The steel trap No.2, page 141 is the best
+for animals of the size of the Fox. The trap should be washed in
+weak lye, being afterwards well greased and finally smoked over
+burning hen's feathers.
+
+[Page 156]
+All this and even more precaution is necessary. No matter how strongly
+scented the trap may be, with the smoke, or other substances, a
+mere touch of the bare hand will leave a _human scent_ which the
+fox perceives as soon as the other, and this is enough to deaden
+his enthusiasm over the most tempting bait.
+
+On this account, it is necessary always to handle the trap with
+buckskin gloves, never allowing the bare hand to come in contact
+with it, on any account, after once prepared for setting.
+
+Before arranging the trap for its work, it is necessary to construct
+what is called a "bed." There are several methods of doing this;
+but from all we can learn from the most experienced trappers, the
+following is the most successful. The bed should be made on flat
+ground, using any of the following substances: Buckwheat chaff,
+which is the best, oat, wheat, or hay chaff, or in lieu of these,
+moss or wood ashes. Let the bed be three feet in diameter, and an
+inch and a half in depth. To insure success it is the best plan
+to bait the bed itself for several days with scraps of beef or
+cheese strewn upon, and near it. If the fox once visits the place,
+discovers the tempting morsels and enjoys a good meal unmolested,
+he will be sure to revisit the spot so long as he finds a "free
+lunch" awaiting him. When he is found to come regularly and take
+the bait, he is as good as caught, provided our instructions are
+carefully followed. Take the trap, previously prepared as already
+described, chain it securely to a small log of wood about two feet
+long. Dig a hole in the earth in the centre of the bed, large enough
+to receive the trap, with its log, and chain. Set the traps, supporting
+the pan by pushing some of the chaff beneath it. Now lay a piece
+of paper over the pan and sprinkle the chaff over it evenly and
+smoothly, until every trace of the trap and its appendages is
+obliterated. Endeavor to make the bed look as it has previously
+done, and bait it with the same materials. Avoid treading much
+about the bed and step in the same tracks as far as possible. Touch
+nothing with the naked hands. Cover up all the footprints as much
+as possible, and leave the trap to take care of itself and any
+intruder. If our directions have been accurately followed, and due
+care has been exercised on the part of the young trapper, there
+is every probability that the next morning will reward him with
+his fox. But if a day or two elapse without success, it is well to
+resort to the "scent baits" described on page 149. Take the trap
+out of the bed, and with a feather smear it with melted beeswax,
+or rub it with a little Oil of Rhodium, Assafoetida, or Musk. Oil
+of Amber, and Lavender water are also used for the same
+[Page 157]
+purpose by many professional trappers. These are not always necessary
+but are often used as a last resort, and will most always insure
+success.
+
+Another method of baiting is shown in our page illustration opposite,
+and consists in suspending the bait by a stick in such a position
+that the fox will be obliged to step upon the trap in order to
+reach it. The bed should be baited in this way several times before
+the trap is set. This method is very commonly employed.
+
+Another still, is to bury the dead body of a rabbit or bird in
+loose earth, covering the whole with chaff. Sprinkle a few drops
+of Musk, or Oil of Amber over the bed. After the fox has taken
+the bait, the place should be rebaited and the trap inserted in
+the mound and covered with the chaff, being scented as before.
+
+Some trappers employ the following method with good results: The
+trap is set, in a spring or at the edge of a small shallow brook
+and attached by a chain to a stake in the bank, the chain being
+under water. There should be only about an inch and a half of water
+over the trap, and its distance from the shore should be about
+a foot and a half, or even less. In order to induce the fox to
+place his foot in the trap it is necessary to cut a sod of grass,
+just the size of the inside of the jaws of the trap, and place it
+over the pan, so that it will project above the water and offer
+a tempting foot rest for the animal while he reaches for the bait
+which rests in the water just beyond. To accomplish this device
+without springing the trap by the weight of the sod, it is necessary
+to brace up the pan from beneath with a small perpendicular stick,
+sufficiently to neutralize the pressure from above. The bait may
+be a dead rabbit or bird thrown on the water outside of the trap
+and about a foot from it, being secured by a string and peg. If
+the fox spies the bait he will be almost sure to step upon the
+sod to reach it, and thus get caught.
+
+If none of these methods are successful, the young trapper may at
+least content himself with the idea that the particular fox he is
+after is an _old fellow_ and is "not to be caught with chaff" or
+any thing else,--for if these devices will not secure him _nothing_
+will. If he is a young and comparatively unsophisticated specimen,
+he will fall an easy victim to any of the foregoing stratagems.
+
+Although steel traps are generally used in the capture of foxes,
+a cleverly constructed and baited dead-fall such as is described
+on page 113 will often do capital service in that direction. By
+[Page 158]
+arranging and baiting the trap as therein described, even a fox
+is _likely to become_ its prey.
+
+To skin the fox the pelt should be first ripped down each hind
+leg to the vent. The skin being cut loose around this point, the
+bone of the tail should next be removed. This may be done by holding
+a split stick tightly over the bone after which the latter may be
+easily pulled out of the skin.
+
+The hide should then be drawn back, and carefully removed, working
+with caution around the legs, and particularly so about the eyes,
+ears, and lips when these points are reached. The skin should be
+stretched as described on page 273.
+
+
+THE WOLF.
+
+The United States are blessed with several species of this animal.
+The Grey Wolf, which is the largest, and the smaller, Prairie Wolf
+or Coyote, being the most commonly known. There are also the White
+Wolf, Black Wolf and the Texan or Red Wolf. In outward form they
+all bear a considerable resemblance to each other, and their habits
+are generally similar in the different varieties.
+
+Wolves are fierce and dangerous animals, and are very powerful of
+limb and fleet of foot. They are extremely cowardly in character,
+and will seldom attack man or animal except when by their greater
+numbers they would be sure of victory. Wolves are found in almost
+every quarter of the globe. Mountain and plain, field, jungle and
+prairie are alike infested with them, and they hunt in united bands,
+feeding upon almost any animal which by their combined attacks
+they can overpower.
+
+Their inroads upon herds and sheep folds are sometimes horrifying,
+and a single wolf has been known to kill as many as forty sheep
+in a single night, seemingly from mere blood-thirsty desire.
+
+In the early colonization of America, wolves ran wild over the
+country in immense numbers, and were a source of great danger;
+but now, owing to wide-spread civilization, they have disappeared
+from the more settled localities and are chiefly found in Western
+wilds and prairie lands.
+
+The Grey Wolf is the largest and most formidable representative of
+the Dog tribe on this continent. Its general appearance is truthfully
+given in our drawing. Its length, exclusive of the tail, is about
+four feet, the length of the tail being about a foot and a half.
+Its color varies from yellowish grey to almost
+[Page 159]
+white in the northern countries, in which latitude the animal is
+sometimes found of an enormous size, measuring nearly seven feet in
+length. The fur is coarse and shaggy about the neck and haunches,
+and the tail is bushy. They abound in the region east of the Rocky
+Mountains and northward, and travel in packs of hundreds in search
+of prey. Bisons, wild horses, deer and even bears fall victims
+to their united fierceness, and human beings, too, often fall a
+prey to their ferocious attacks.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Coyote, or Common Prairie Wolf, also known as the Burrowing
+Wolf, as its name implies inhabits the Western plains and prairies.
+They are much smaller than the Grey Wolf, and not so dangerous. They
+travel in bands and unitedly attack whatever animal they desire
+to kill. Their homes are made in burrows which they excavate in the
+ground. The Texan Wolf inhabits the latitude of Texas and southward.
+It is of a tawny red color and nearly as large as the grey species,
+possessing the same savage nature.
+
+In April or May the female wolf retires to her burrow or den, and
+her young, from six to ten in number, are brought forth.
+
+The wolf is almost as sly and cunning as the fox, and the same
+caution is required in trapping the animal. They are extremely keen
+scented, and the mere touch of a human hand on the trap is often
+enough to preclude the possibility of capture. A mere footprint,
+or the scent of tobacco juice, they look upon with great suspicion,
+[Page 160]
+and the presence of either will often prevent success.
+
+The same directions given in regard to trapping the fox are equally
+adapted for the wolf. The trap (size No, 4, page 141) should be
+smoked or smeared with beeswax or blood, and set in a bed of ashes
+or other material as therein described, covering with moss, chaff,
+leaves or some other light substance. The clog should be fully
+twice as heavy as that used for the fox. Some trappers rub the
+traps with "brake leaves," sweet fern, or even skunk's cabbage.
+Gloves should always be worn in handling the traps, and all tracks
+should be obliterated as much as if a fox were the object sought
+to be secured.
+
+A common way of securing the wolf consists in setting the trap
+in a spring or puddle of water, throwing the dead body of some
+large animal in the water beyond the trap in such a position that
+the wolf will be obliged to tread upon the trap, in order to reach
+the bait. This method is described both under the head of the Fox
+and the Bear.
+
+Another plan is to fasten the bait between two trees which are
+very close together, setting a trap on each side and carefully
+concealing them as already directed, and securing each to a clog
+of about twenty pounds in weight. The enclosure described on page
+144 is also successful.
+
+There are various scent or trail baits used in trapping the wolf.
+Oil of Assafoetida is by many trappers considered the best, but
+Oil of Rhodium, powdered fennel, fenugreek and Cummin Oil are also
+much used. It is well to smear a little of the first mentioned oil
+near the traps, using any one of the other substances, or indeed a
+mixture of them all, for the trail. This may be made by smearing the
+preparation on the sole of the boots and walking in the direction
+of the traps, or by dragging from one trap to another a piece of
+meat scented with the substance, as described under the head of
+Mink.
+
+The wolf is an adept at feigning death, playing "'possum" with a
+skill which would do credit to that veritable animal itself.
+
+A large dead-fall, constructed of logs, page 17, when skilfully
+scented and baited, will often allure a wolf into its clutches,
+and a very strong twitch-up, with a noose formed of heavy wire, or
+a strip of stout calf hide, will successfully capture the crafty
+creature.
+
+In skinning the wolf the hide may be removed either by, first ripping
+up the belly, or in a circular piece, as described connection with
+the fox, both methods being much used. The board and hoop stretchers
+[Page 161]
+used in preparing the skin are described on pages 273 and 275.
+
+
+THE PUMA.
+
+The puma, commonly known also as the panther or cougar, is the
+largest American representative of the Cat tribe, and for this
+reason is often dignified by the name of the "American Lion." It
+is found more or less abundantly throughout the United States;
+and although not generally considered a dangerous foe to mankind,
+it has often been known in the wild districts to steal upon the
+traveller unawares, and in many instances human beings have fallen
+a prey to the powerful claws and teeth of this powerful animal.
+
+The life of the puma is mostly in the trees. Crouching upon the
+branches it watches for, or steals, cat-like, upon its prey. Should
+a solitary animal pass within reach, the puma will not hesitate in
+pouncing upon the unfortunate creature; but if a herd of animals,
+or party of men, should be travelling together, the caution of
+the brute asserts itself, and he will often dog their footsteps
+for a great distance, in hopes of securing a straggler. Birds are
+struck down by a single blow of the puma's ready paw, and so quick
+are his movements that even though a bird has risen on the wing,
+he can often make one of his wonderful bounds, and with a light,
+quick stroke, arrest the winged prey before it has time to soar
+beyond reach. The puma is a good angler. Sitting by the water's
+edge he watches for his victims, and no sooner does an unfortunate
+fish swim within reach, than the nimble paw is outstretched, and
+it is swept out of the water on dry land, and eagerly devoured.
+
+A puma has been known to follow the track of travellers for days
+together, only daring to show itself at rare intervals, and never
+endeavoring to make an attack except through stealth. The animal
+will often approach cautiously upon a traveller until sufficiently
+near to make its fatal spring; but if the pursued party suddenly turn
+round and face the crawling creature, the beast becomes discomfited
+at once, and will retreat from the gaze which seems to it a positive
+terror. So long as a puma can be kept in sight, no danger need be
+feared from the animal but it will improve every opportunity of
+springing unobservedly upon a heedless passer by. The total length
+of the puma is six feet and a half, of which the tail occupies a
+little over two feet. Its color is of a uniform light tawny tint,
+fading into light grey on the under parts, and the tip of the tail
+[Page 162]
+is black. The puma is one of the few members of the Cat tribe, which
+are without the usual spots or stripes so observable in the tiger and
+leopard. The lion has the same uniformity of color, and it is perhaps
+partly on that account that the panther is so often known as the
+American lion. In infancy the young pumas possess decided tiger-like
+markings, and leopard-like spots, but these disappear altogether as
+the animal increases in size. The cougar has learned by experience a
+wholesome fear of man, and as civilization has extended throughout
+our country, the animals have been forced to retire from the neighborhood
+of human habitations and hide themselves in thick, uncultivated forest
+lands.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Sometimes, however, the animal, urged by fierce hunger, will venture
+on a marauding expedition for several miles, and although not an
+object of personal dread to the inhabitants, he often becomes a
+pestilent neighbor to the farmer, committing great ravages among
+his flocks and herds, and making sad havoc in his poultry yard.
+It is not the fortune of every puma, however, to reside in the
+neighborhood of such easy prey as pigs, sheep and poultry, and the
+greater number of these animals are forced to depend for their
+[Page 163]
+subsistence on their own success in chasing or surprising the various
+animals on which they feed.
+
+When a puma is treed by hunters, it is said to show great skill
+in selecting a spot wherein it shall be best concealed from the
+gazers below, and will even draw the neighboring branches about
+its body to hide itself from the aim of the hunter's rifle. While
+thus lying upon the branches the beast is almost invisible from
+below, as its fur, when seen, harmonizes so well with the the bark
+which covers the boughs, that the one can scarcely be distinguished
+from the other.
+
+The puma loves to hide in the branches of trees, and from this
+eminence to launch itself upon the doomed animal that may pass within
+its reach. It may, therefore, be easily imagined how treacherous a
+foe the creature may be when ranging at will among the countless
+trees and jungles of our American forests.
+
+Although so stealthy and sly a creature the cougar possesses very
+little cunning and is easily trapped. The Gun trap, page 20, is
+commonly and successfully employed in South America in the capture
+of the jaguar, as our title illustration, page 15, represents, and
+it may also be used with the same success in trapping the puma.
+The Bow trap, page 23, and the dead-fall described in the early part
+of the book, will all be found to work admirably in the destruction
+of this treacherous beast.
+
+The animal may be entrapped alive, should any of our young trappers
+dare to try the experiment.
+
+There are two ways of accomplishing this. The first is by the aid
+of a huge coop of logs, as described on page 30 or 33, and the other
+by the Pit-fall, as exemplified on page 31. Huge twitch-ups may
+also be constructed, using very strong wire. The bait may consist
+of a fowl, sheep's head, or the heart of any animal. Fresh meat of
+any kind will answer the purpose, and in the case of the Pit-fall
+a live fowl is preferable to a dead one as it will attract the
+puma by its motions, or by its cackling, and thus induce him to
+_spring_ upon his prey, which will precipitate him to the bottom
+of the pit and thus effect his capture.
+
+They are commonly taken with the steel trap. The puma seldom leaves
+the vicinity of the carcass of an animal it has killed until it is
+all devoured. When such a carcass can be found the capture of the
+beast is easily effected. Set the trap, size No. 5, page 143, near
+the remains, and cover the carcass with leaves. The next visit of
+the animal will find him _more attached_ to the place than ever,--so
+much so that he will be unable to "_tear himself away_."
+
+[Page 164]
+The skin of the puma is properly removed by first cutting up the
+belly as described under the Beaver, using great care about the
+head and face. Use the hoop stretcher, page 275.
+
+
+THE CANADIAN LYNX.
+
+The lynx represents another of the Cat tribe, and as its name implies
+is a native of the regions north of the United States, although
+sometimes found in upper Maine and on the lower borders of the
+great lakes. It is commonly known throughout Canada as the Peshoo,
+or "Le Chat."
+
+Our illustration is a truthful representation of the animal. Its
+total length exceeds three feet, and its tail is a mere stub. The
+fur is thick, and the hairs are long, the general color being grey,
+sprinkled with black. The legs are generally darker than the body,
+and the ears are often edged with white. The limbs and muscles
+are very powerful, the paws are very large for the size of the
+animal, and are furnished with strong white claws, which are imbedded
+in the fur of the feet when not in use, they are shown in our
+illustration. The ears of the lynx form a distinct feature, by
+which the animal could be easily identified; they are long and
+tipped with stiff projecting hairs, giving the creature a very odd
+appearance.
+
+The peshoo can not be said to be a very dangerous animal, unless
+it is attacked, when it becomes a most ferocious antagonist. The
+writer knew of a gentleman who was pounced upon and very nearly
+killed by one of these infuriated creatures, and there are many
+like instances on record.
+
+The principal food of the lynx consists of the smaller quadrupeds,
+the American hare being its favorite article of diet. It is a good
+swimmer, and a most agile climber, chasing its prey among the branches
+with great stealth and dexterity. Like the wolf, fox, and many
+other flesh eating-animals, the lynx does not content itself with
+the creatures which fall by the stroke of its own talons, or the
+grip of its own teeth, but will follow the trail of the puma, in
+its nocturnal quest after prey, and thankfully partake of the feast
+which remains after its predecessor has satisfied its appetite.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+While running at full speed, the lynx presents a most ludicrous
+appearance, owing to its peculiar manner of leaping. It progresses
+in successive bounds, with its back slightly arched, and all the
+feet striking the ground nearly at the same instant. Powerful as
+the animal is, it is easily killed by a blow on the
+[Page 165]
+back, a slight stick being a sufficient weapon wherewith to destroy
+the creature. For this reason the "Dead-fall" is particularly adapted
+for its capture, and is very successful, as the animal possesses
+very little cunning, and will enter an enclosure of any kind without
+the slightest compunction, when a tempting bait is in view. The
+dead-fall should of course be constructed on a large scale, and
+it is a good plan to have the enclosure deep, and the bait as far
+back as will necessitate the animal being well under the suspended
+log in order to reach it. The bait may consist of a dead quadruped
+or of fresh meat of any kind.
+
+The Gun trap, page 20, and the Bow trap, page 23, will also be
+found efficient, and a very powerful twitch-up, constructed from a
+stout pole and extra strong wire will also serve to good purpose.
+The lynx is not so prolific as many of the feline tribe, the number
+of its young seldom exceeding two, and this only once a year. The
+fur of the animal is valuable for the purposes to which the feline
+skin is generally adapted, and commands a fair price in the market.
+Those who hunt or trap the lynx will do well to choose the winter
+months for the time of their operations, as during the cold season
+the animal possesses a thicker and warmer fur than it offers in
+the summer months.
+
+When the steel trap is used, it should be of size No. 4, page
+[Page 166]
+141, set at the opening of a pen of stakes, the bait being placed
+at the back of the enclosure in such a position, as that the animal
+will be obliged to step upon the pan of the trap in order to reach
+it. Any of the devices described under "Hints on Baiting" will
+be found successful.
+
+The skin of the animal may be removed as directed in the case of
+the fox, being drawn off the body whole, or it may be removed after
+the manner of the beaver, and similarly stretched.
+
+
+THE WILD CAT.
+
+This animal is one of the most wide-spread species of the Cat tribe,
+being found not only in America, but throughout nearly the whole
+of Europe as well as in Northern Asia. In many parts of the United
+States, where the wild cat was wont to flourish, it has become
+exterminated, owing to civilization and the destruction of forest
+lands.
+
+Many naturalists are of the opinion that the wild cat is the original
+progenitor of our domestic cat, but there is much difference of opinion
+in regard to the subject. Although they bear great resemblance to
+each other, there are several points of distinction between the
+two; one of the most decided differences being in the comparative
+length of the tails. The tail of the wild cat is little more than
+half the length of that of the domestic cat, and much more bushy.
+
+The color of the wild animal is much more uniform than in the great
+raft of "domestic" mongrel specimens which make night hideous with
+their discordant yowls, although we sometimes see a high bred individual
+which, if his tail was cut off at half its length, might easily
+pass as an example of the wild variety.
+
+The ground tint of the fur in the wild cat is yellowish grey,
+diversified with dark streaks over the body and limbs, much after
+the appearance of the so-called "tiger cat." A row of dark streaks
+and spots extends along the spine, and the tail is thick, short
+and bushy, tipped with black and encircled with a number of rings
+of a dark hue. In some individuals the markings are less distinct,
+and they are sometimes altogether wanting, but in the typical wild
+cat they are quite prominent. The fur is rather long and thick,
+particularly so during the winter season, and always in the colder
+northern regions.
+
+The amount of havoc which these creatures often occasion is surprising,
+and their nocturnal inroads, in poultry yards and
+[Page 167]
+sheep folds, render them most hated pests to farmers in the countries
+where these animals abound. They seem to have a special appetite
+for the _heads_ of fowls, and will often decapitate a half dozen
+in a single night, leaving the bodies in otherwise good condition
+to tell the story of their midnight murders. The home of the wild
+cat is made in some cleft of rock, or in the hollow of some aged
+tree, from which the creature issues in the dark hours and starts
+upon its marauding excursions. Its family numbers from three to
+six, and the female parent is smaller than the male, the total
+length of the latter being three feet.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Inhabiting the most lonely and inaccessible ranges of rock and
+mountain, the wild cat is seldom seen during the daytime. At night,
+like its domestic relative, he prowls far and wide, walking with
+the same stealthy step and hunting his game in the same tiger-like
+manner. He is by no means a difficult animal to trap, being easily
+deceived and taking a bait without any hesitation. The wild cat
+haunts the shores of lakes and rivers, and it is here that the
+traps may be set for them. Having caught and killed one of the
+colony, the rest of them can be easily taken if the body of the
+dead victim be left near their hunting ground and surrounded with
+the traps carefully set and concealed beneath leaves moss or the like.
+[Page 168]
+Every wild cat that is in the neighborhood will be certain to visit
+the body, and if the traps are rightly arranged many will be caught.
+The trap No. 3, page 141 is generally used. We would caution the young
+trapper in his approach to an entrapped wild cat, as the strength and
+ferocity of this animal under such circumstances, or when otherwise
+"hard pressed," is perfectly amazing. When caught in a trap they
+spring with terrible fury at any one who approaches them, not waiting
+to be assailed, and when cornered or hemmed in by a hunter they
+will often turn upon their pursuer, and springing at his face will
+attack him with most consummate fury, often inflicting serious
+and sometimes fatal wounds. When hunted and attacked by dogs, the
+wild cat is a most desperate and untiring fighter, and extremely
+difficult to kill, for which reason it has been truthfully said
+that "if a tame cat has nine lives, a _wild cat_ must have a dozen."
+
+The twitch-up, erected on a large scale, is utilized to a considerable
+extent in England in the capture of these animals; and these, together
+with steel traps and dead-falls, are about the only machines used
+for their capture. We would suggest the garrote, bow and gun trap
+also as being very effective. The bait may consist of the head
+of a fowl or a piece of rabbit or fowl flesh: or, indeed, flesh
+of almost any kind will answer, particularly of the bird kind.
+
+In skinning the wild cat the same directions given under the head
+of the Fox may be followed, or the pelt may be ripped up the belly
+and spread on a hoop stretcher, page 275.
+
+
+THE BEAR.
+
+There are several species of the Bear tribe which inhabit our continent,
+the most prominent of which are the Grizzly, and the Musquaw or
+common Black Bear. There is no other animal of this country which
+is more widely and deservedly dreaded than the grizzly bear. There
+are other creatures, the puma and wild cat, for instance, which
+are dangerous when cornered or wounded, but they are not given to
+open and deliberate attack upon human beings. The grizzly, however,
+or "Ephraim," as he is commonly termed by trappers, often displays
+a most unpleasant readiness to attack and pursue a man, even in
+the face of fire arms. In many localities, however, where hunting
+has been pursued to considerable extent, these animals have learned
+from experience a wholesome fear of man, and are not so ready to
+assume the offensive, but a "_wounded_" grizzly is one of the
+[Page 169]
+most horrible antagonists of which it is possible to conceive,
+rushing upon its victim with terrible fury, and dealing most tearing
+and heavy blows with its huge claws.
+
+In length this formidable animal often exceeds eight feet, and its
+color varies from yellowish to brownish black, and some specimens
+are found of a dirty grey color.
+
+The legs are usually darker than the rest of the body, and the
+face is generally of a lighter tint. The fore limbs of the animal
+are immensely powerful; and the foot of a full-grown individual
+is fully eighteen inches long, and armed with claws five inches
+in length. The grizzly inhabits the Rocky Mountain regions and
+northward, being found in considerable numbers in the western part
+of British America. Its hair is thick and coarse, except in the
+young animal, which possesses a beautiful fur.
+
+All other creatures seem to stand in fear of this formidable beast.
+Even the huge bison, or buffalo, of the Western Prairies sometimes
+falls a victim to the grizzly bear, and the very imprint of a bear's
+foot upon the soil is a warning which not even a hungry wolf will
+disregard.
+
+Its food consists of whatever animal it can seize, whether human
+or otherwise. He also devours green corn, nuts, and fruits of all
+kinds. In his earlier years he is a good climber, and will ascend
+a tree with an agility which is surprisingly inconsistent with
+the unwieldy proportions of his body.
+
+The average weight of a full-grown grizzly is over eight hundred
+pounds, and the girth around the body is about eight feet.
+
+The Black bear, or Musquaw, which we illustrate is common throughout
+nearly all the half settled-districts of North America. But as the
+fur and fat are articles of great commercial value, the hunters
+and trappers have exercised their craft with such skill and
+determination that the animals are gradually decreasing in numbers.
+The total length of the black bear is seldom more than six feet,
+and its fur is smooth and glossy in appearance. The color of the
+animal is rightly conveyed by its name, the cheeks only partaking
+of a reddish fawn color.
+
+It possesses little of that fierceness which characterizes the
+grizzly, being naturally a very quiet and retiring creature, keeping
+itself aloof from mankind, and never venturing near his habitations
+except when excited by the pangs of fierce hunger. When pursued
+or cornered it becomes a dangerous antagonist; and its furious
+rage often results in fearful catastrophes to both man and beast.
+Nothing but a rifle ball in the right spot will
+[Page 170]
+check the creature, when wrought up to this pitch of fury, and an
+additional wound only serves to increase its terrible ferocity.
+Bear-chasing is an extremely dangerous sport; and there are few
+bear-hunters in the land, however skilful, but what can show scars
+from the claws or teeth of some exasperated bruin.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The food of the black bear is mostly of a vegetable character,
+animal diet not being indulged in unless pressed by hunger. At
+such times it seems to especially prefer a young pig as the most
+desirable delicacy; and even full-grown hogs, it is said, are sometimes
+lifted from their pens and carried off in his deadly embrace.
+
+Honey is his especial delight; and he will climb trees with great
+agility in order to reach a nest of bees, there being few obstacles
+which his ready claws and teeth will not remove where that dainty
+is in view. He is also very fond of acorns, berries, and fruits
+of all kinds.
+
+The young of the bear are produced in January or February, and
+are from one to four in number. They are very small and covered
+with grey hair, which coat they retain until they are one year of
+age. The flesh of the bear is held in high esteem among hunters,
+and when properly prepared is greatly esteemed by epicures.
+
+The fat of the animal is much used under the title of "Bear
+[Page 171]
+grease," and is believed to be an infallible hair rejuvenator, and
+therefore becomes a valuable article of commerce.
+
+The bear generally hibernates during the winter, choosing some
+comfortable residence which it has prepared in the course of the
+summer, or perhaps betaking itself to the hollow of some tree.
+Sometimes, in case of early snow, the track of the bears may be
+distinguished, and if followed will probably lead to their dens,
+in which they can be secured with logs until it is desired to kill
+them.
+
+The black bear has a habit of treading in a beaten track, which
+is easily detected by the eye of an experienced hunter or trapper,
+and turned to good account in trapping the animal.
+
+There are various modes of accomplishing this result. The bear
+Dead-fall, described on page 17, is, perhaps, the most commonly
+used, and the Pit-fall, page 31, and "Giant Coop" trap are also
+excellent. The Gun trap and stone dead-fall, page 20, we also
+confidently recommend. When a steel trap is used it requires the
+largest size, especially made for the purpose. It should be supplied
+with a short and very strong chain firmly secured to a very heavy
+clog or grappling-iron page 147. If secured to a tree or other
+stationary object, the captured animal is likely to gnaw or tear
+his foot away, if, indeed, he does not break the trap altogether
+by the quick tightening of the chain. The clog should be only heavy
+enough to be an _impediment_, and may consist of a log or heavy
+stone. The grappling-iron, however, is more often used in connection
+with the bear trap. It is a common method in trapping the bear
+to construct a pen of upright branches, laying the trap at its
+opening, and covering it with leaves. The bait is then placed at
+the back in such a position that the animal, on reaching for it,
+will be sure to put his foot in the trap.
+
+An experienced trapper soon discovers natural openings between
+rocks or trees, which may be easily modified, and by the addition
+of a few logs so improved upon as to answer his purpose as well as
+a more elaborate enclosure, with much less trouble. Any arrangement
+whereby the bear will be obliged to tread upon the trap in order
+to secure the bait, is, of course, all that is required. The bait
+may be hung on the edge of a rock five feet from the ground, and
+the trap set on a smaller rock beneath it. He will thus be almost
+sure to rest his forefoot on the latter rock in order to reach
+the bait, and will thus be captured.
+
+Another way is to set the trap in a spring of water or swampy
+[Page 172]
+spot. Lay a lump of moss over the pan, suspending the bait beyond
+the trap. The moss will offer a natural foot-rest, and the offending
+paw will be secured.
+
+Bears possess but little cunning, and will enter any nook or corner
+without the slightest compunction when in quest of food. They are
+especially fond of sweets, and, as we have said, are strongly attracted
+by honey, being able to scent it from a great distance. On this
+account it is always used, when possible, by trappers in connection
+with other baits. These may consist of a fowl, fruit, or flesh of
+any kind, and the honey should be smeared over it. Skunk cabbage
+is said to be an excellent bait for the bear; and in all cases a
+free use of the Oil of Anise page 152, sprinkling it about the
+traps, is also advisable. Should the device fail, it is well to
+make a trail (see page 153) in several directions from the trap,
+and extending for several rods. A piece of wood, wet with Oil of
+Anise, will answer for the purpose.
+
+The general method of skinning the bear consists in first cutting
+from the front of the lower jaw down the belly to the vent, after
+which the hide may be easily removed. The hoop-stretcher page 275,
+will then come into good use in the drying and preparing of the
+skin for market.
+
+
+THE RACCOON.
+
+Although allied to the Bear family, this animal possesses much
+in common with the fox, as regards its general disposition and
+character. It has the same slyness and cunning, the same stealthy
+tread, besides an additional mischievousness and greed. It is too
+common to need any description here, being found plentifully throughout
+nearly the whole United States. The bushy tail, with its dark rings,
+will be sufficient to identify the animal in any community. Raccoon
+hunts form the subject of many very exciting and laughable stories,
+and a "coon chase," to this day is a favorite sport all over the
+country. The raccoon, or "coon," as he is popularly styled, is
+generally hunted by moonlight. An experienced dog is usually set
+on the trail and the fugitive soon seeks refuge in a tree, when
+its destruction is almost certain. Hence the term "treed coon," as
+applied to an individual when in a dangerous predicament. Besides
+possessing many of the peculiarities of the fox, the "coon" has
+the additional accomplishment of being a most agile and expert
+climber, holding so firmly to the limb by its sharp claws as to
+defy all attempts to shake it off.
+
+[Page 173]
+The home of the raccoon is generally in a hollow tree; the young
+are brought forth in May, and are from four to six in number.
+
+In captivity this animal makes a very cunning and interesting pet,
+being easily tamed to follow its master, and when dainties are in
+view becomes a most adroit pickpocket. Its food is extensive in
+variety, thus making it quite an easy matter to keep the creature
+in confinement. Nuts and fruits of all kinds it eagerly devours,
+as well as bread, cake and potatoes. It manifests no hesitation
+at a meal of rabbit, rat, squirrel, or bird, and rather likes it
+for a change, and when he can partake of a dessert of honey or
+molasses his enjoyment knows no bounds. Frogs, fresh water clams,
+green corn, and a host of other delicacies come within the range
+of his diet, and he may sometimes be seen digging from the sand
+the eggs of the soft-shelled turtle, which he greedily sucks. We
+cordially recommend the coon as a pet. He becomes very docile,
+and is full of cunning ways, and if the young ones can be traced
+to their hiding-place in some hollow tree, and secured, if not
+_too_ young, we could warrant our readers a great deal of real
+sport and pleasure in rearing the little animals and watching their
+ways.
+
+In cold climates the raccoon lies dormant in the winter, only venturing
+out on occasional mild days; but in the Southern States he is active
+throughout the year, prowling about by day and by night in search
+of his food, inserting his little sharp nose into every corner,
+and feeling with his slender paws between stones for spiders and
+bugs of all kinds. He spies the innocent frog with his head just
+out of the water, and pouncing upon him, he despatches him without
+a moment's warning. There seems to be no limits to his rapacity, for
+he is always eating and always hungry. The print of the raccoon's
+paw in the mud or snow is easily recognized, much resembling the
+impression made by the foot of a babe.
+
+The best season for trapping the coon is late in the fall, winter,
+and early spring, or from and between the months of October and
+April. During this time the pelts are in excellent condition. Early
+in the spring when the snow is disappearing, the coons come out
+of their hiding places to start on their foraging tours; and at
+this time are particularly susceptible to a tempting bait, and
+they may be successfully trapped in the following manner:--
+
+Take a steel trap and set it on the edge of some pool, or stream
+where the coons are known to frequent: let it be an inch
+[Page 174]
+or so under the water, and carefully chained to a clog. The bait
+may consist of a fish, frog, or head of a fowl, scented with Oil
+of Anise, and suspended over the traps about two feet higher, by
+the aid of a sapling secured in the ground. (See title page at
+the head of this section.) The object of this is to induce the
+animal to jump for it, when he will land with his foot in the trap.
+Another method is to construct a V shaped pen set the trap near
+the entrance, and, fastening the bait in the angle, cover the trap
+loosely with leaves, and scent the bait as before with the anise.
+The trap should be at such a distance from the bait that the animal,
+in order to reach it, will be obliged to tread upon the pan, which
+he will be sure to do, his greed overcoming his discretion. Any
+arrangement whereby the animal will be obliged to tread upon the
+trap in order to reach the bait will be successful.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The beaten track of the coons may often be discovered in soft ground,
+and a trap carefully concealed therein will soon secure its victim.
+Another method is to set the trap near the coon tracks, spreading a
+few drops of anise on the pan and covering the whole with leaves.
+The coon, attracted by the scent, will feel around in the leaves for
+[Page 175]
+the bait, and thus "put his foot in it."
+
+In the South they construct a coon trap from a hollow log, either
+having the ends supplied with lids, which fall just like the Rat
+trap page 100 as the animal passes through, or else constructed
+with nooses, similar to the Box-snare, page 56. Box traps of a
+style similar to that described on page 103 are also excellent, and
+a strong twitch-up, of any of the various kinds we have described,
+will be found to work admirably.
+
+Many of the suggestions in trapping the mink, page 190, will be
+found equally, serviceable in regard to the coon.
+
+The skin of this animal should be removed as recommended for the
+fox, and similarly stretched. It may also be skinned by first ripping
+up the belly, and spread on a hoop stretcher. page 275.
+
+
+THE BADGER.
+
+The American Badger is mostly confined to the Northwestern parts
+of the United States, and it is a curious little animal. In size
+its body is slightly smaller than the fox. Its general color is
+grey, approaching to black on the head and legs. There is a white
+streak extending from the tip of the animal's long nose over the
+top of the head and fading off near the shoulders. The cheeks are
+also white, and a broad and definitely marked black line extends
+from the snout back around the eyes ending at the neck. The grey
+of this animal is produced from the mixture of the varied tints
+of its fur, each hair presenting a succession of shades. At the
+root it is of a deep grey; this fades into a tawny yellow, and
+is followed by a black, the hair being finally tipped with white.
+The fur is much used in the manufacture of fine paint brushes, a
+good "Badger blender" being a most useful accessory in the painter's
+art. The badger is slow and clumsy in its actions, except when
+engaged in digging, his capacities in this direction being so great
+as to enable him to sink himself into the ground with marvellous
+rapidity. The nest of the animal is made in the burrow, and the
+young are three or four in number. His diet is as variable and
+extensive as that of the coon, and consists of anything in any
+way eatable. Snails, worms, rats, mice and moles, seem to have
+a particular attraction for him; and he seems to take especial
+delight in unearthing the stores of the wild bees, devouring honey,
+wax and grubs together, and caring as little for the stings of the
+[Page 176]
+angry bees as he would of the bills of so many mosquitoes, the thick
+coating of fur forming a perfect protection against his winged
+antagonists. The badger is very susceptible to human influence, and
+can be effectually tamed with but little trouble. Although his general
+appearance would not indicate it, he is a sly and cunning animal, and
+not easily captured in a trap of any kind. He has been known to set
+at defiance all the traps that were set for him, and to devour
+the baits without suffering for his audacity. He will sometimes
+overturn a trap and spring it from the under side, before attempting
+to remove the bait. Although not quite as crafty as the fox, it is
+necessary to use much of the same caution in trapping the badger,
+as a bare trap seldom wins more than a look of contempt from the
+wary animal.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The usual mode of catching the creature is to set the trap size
+No. 3 at the mouth of its burrow, carefully covering it with loose
+earth and securing it by a chain to a stake. Any of the methods
+used in trapping the fox will also be found to work admirably.
+The dead-fall or garrote will also do good service. Bait with a
+rat, mouse, or with whatever else the animal is especially fond,
+and scent with Oil of Anise or Musk. In early spring, while the
+ground is still hard, badgers are easily captured by flooding their
+burrows. After being satisfied that the animal is in its hole,
+proceed to pour in pailful after pailful of water at the entrance.
+[Page 177]
+He will not long be able to stand this sort of thing, and he may
+be secured as he makes his exit at the opening of the burrow.
+
+The skin should be removed whole, as in the case of the fox, or
+as described for the beaver, and stretched as therein indicated.
+
+
+THE BEAVER.
+
+The Beaver of North America has now a world-wide reputation for
+its wonderful instinct and sagacity. The general appearance of
+this animal is that of a very large muskrat with a broad flattened
+tail, and the habits of both these animals are in many respects
+alike. The beaver is an amphibious creature and social in its habits
+of living, large numbers congregating together and forming little
+villages, and erecting their dome-like huts like little Esquimaux.
+The muskrat has this same propensity, but the habitation of the
+beaver is on a much more extensive scale. These huts or "Beaver
+lodges," are generally made in rivers and brooks; although sometimes
+in lakes or large ponds. They are chiefly composed of branches,
+moss, grass and mud, and are large enough to accommodate a family
+of five or six. The form of the "lodges" is dome-like, and it varies
+considerably in size. The foundation is made on the bottom of the
+river, and the hut is built up like a mound, often twenty feet
+in diameter and projecting several feet above the surface of the
+water. The walls of this structure are often five or six feet thick,
+and the roofs are all finished off with a thick layer of mud laid on
+with marvellous smoothness. These huts form the winter habitations
+of the beavers, and as this compost of mud, grass and branches
+becomes congealed into a solid mass by the severe frosts of our
+northern winter, it can easily be seen that they afford a safe
+shelter against any intruder and particularly the wolverine, which
+is a most deadly enemy to the beaver. So hard does this frozen mass
+become as to defy even the edges of iron tools, and the breaking
+open of the "Beaver houses" is at no time an easy task. Beavers
+work almost entirely in the dark; and a pond which is calm and
+placid in the day time will be found in the night to be full of
+life and motion, and the squealing and splashing in the water will
+bear evidence of their industry. Lest the beavers should not have
+a sufficient depth of water at all seasons, they are in the habit
+of constructing veritable dams to ensure that result. These dams
+display a wonderful amount of reason and skill, and, together with
+the huts, have won for the beaver a reputation
+[Page 178]
+for engineering skill which the creature truly deserves. In constructing
+these ingenious dams the beavers, by the aid of their powerful teeth,
+gnaw down trees sometimes of large size, and after cutting them into
+smaller pieces float them on the water to the spot selected for
+the embankment. In swift streams this embankment is built so as
+to arch against the current, thus securing additional strength,
+and evincing an instinct on the part of the animal which amounts
+almost to reason. In cutting down the trees the beaver gnaws a
+circular cut around the trunk, cutting deepest on the side toward
+the water, thus causing the trunk to fall into the stream. The
+first step in constructing the embankment is to lay the logs down
+cautiously in the required line of the dam, afterwards weighting
+them with heavy stones, which the beavers by their united efforts
+roll upon them. The foundation of the embankment is often ten feet
+in width, and is built up by continued heaping of branches, stones
+and mud, until it forms a barrier of immense strength and resisting
+power. In many cases, through a lapse of years, and through a
+[Page 179]
+consequent accumulation of floating leaves, twigs, and seeds of plants,
+these embankments become thickly covered with vegetation, and, in many
+cases in the Hudson Bay country, have even been known to nurture trees
+of considerable dimensions. The broad flat tail of the animal serves a
+most excellent purpose, in carrying the mud to the dams or huts, and
+in matting and smoothing it into a solidity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The entrances to the various huts are all beneath the water, and
+they all open into one common ditch, which is purposely dug in
+the bed of the river, and is too deep to be entirely frozen. In
+the summer time the huts are vacated, and the beavers make their
+abode in burrows on the banks of the stream, which serve as a secure
+retreat at all times, and particularly in winter when their houses
+are molested. The Indians of the Northwest are aware of this fact,
+and turn it to good account in the capture of the animals.
+
+When the beaver's village is in a small creek, or brook, it is
+first necessary to stake the water across both above and below
+the huts. The next thing is to ascertain the exact spots of the
+burrows in the banks, and when we consider the river is covered
+with ice, this seems a rather difficult problem. But this is where
+the Indian shows his skill. He starts upon the ice, provided with
+an ice chisel secured to a long, stout handle. With this he strikes
+upon the ice, following the edge of the stream. The sound of the
+blow determines to his practiced ear the direct spot opposite the
+opening of the burrows, and at this point a hole a foot in diameter
+is made through the ice. Following the edge of the bank he continues
+his search, and in like manner cuts the holes through the ice until
+all the retreats are discovered. While the expert Indians are thus
+engaged, the "squaws" are occupied in the more laborious work of
+breaking open the houses, and the beavers, alarmed at the invasion of
+their sanctums, make for the banks, and the ready huntsmen stationed
+at the various holes, watch for their victims beneath the openings,
+until a violent motion or discoloration of the water betrays their
+passage beneath. The entrance to the holes in the bank are then
+instantly closed with stakes and the beaver is made prisoner in
+his burrow. When the depth of the burrow will admit, the arm of
+the hunter is introduced, and the animal pulled out, but otherwise
+a long hook lashed to a pole is employed for this purpose. Scores
+of beavers are sometimes taken in this way in a few hours. Spearing
+is also often successfully resorted to, and when the ice is thin
+[Page 180]
+and transparent the beavers may be clearly observed as they come
+to the surface, beneath the ice, for air.
+
+The general color of the animal is reddish brown, this tint being
+imparted principally by the long hairs of the fur. There is an
+inner and softer down of a grey color, which lies next the skin,
+and which is the valuable growth of the fur. The total length of
+the animal is about three feet and a half, the flat, paddle-shaped,
+scale-covered tail being about a foot in length.
+
+The young are brought forth in April or May, from three to seven
+at a litter, and take to the water when a month old. The first
+four years in the beaver's life is spent under the "maternal roof,"
+after which period they shift for themselves. To trap the beaver
+successfully, requires the utmost caution, as the senses of the
+animal are so keen, and he is so sagacious withal, that he will detect
+the recent presence of the trapper from the slightest evidences.
+The traps should be washed clean and soaked in ley, before using,
+and thereafter handled with gloves, as a mere touch of the finger
+will leave a scent which the acute sense of the beaver will easily
+perceive. All footprints should be carefully obliterated by throwing
+water upon them, and some trappers say that the mere act of spitting
+on the ground in the neighborhood of the traps has been known to
+thwart success.
+
+Almost the only bait used in trapping the beaver is the preparation
+called "barkstone" by the trappers, or "castoreum" in commerce.
+This substance is fully described on page 150 under the head of
+"Scent Baits."
+
+To the barkstone the trapper is mostly indebted for his success,
+and the effect of its odor on the beaver is something surprising.
+Our best trappers inform us that these animals will scent this
+odor for a great distance, and will fairly "squeal with delight,"
+not being easy until the savory bait is discovered, which almost
+invariably results in capture.
+
+Taking advantage of this curious propensity, the trapper always
+carries a supply of castoreum in a closed vessel.
+
+There are various ways of trapping the beaver, of which we shall
+present the best. An examination of the river bank will easily
+disclose the feeding place of the beavers, as evinced by the absence
+of the bark on the branches and trunks of trees. At this spot,
+in about four inches of water, set your trap, which should be a
+Newhouse No. 4. Weight the end of the chain with a stone as large
+as your head, and, if possible, rest it on the edge of some rock
+projecting into deep water, having a smaller rope or chain leading
+from the stone to the shore. A small twig, the size of your little
+[Page 181]
+finger, should then be stripped of its bark, and after chewing or
+mashing one end, it should be dipped in the castoreum. Insert this
+stick in the mud, between the jaws of the trap, letting it project
+about six inches above the water. The beaver is soon attracted by the
+odor of the bait, and in reaching for it, his foot is caught in the
+trap. In his fright he will immediately jump for deep water, thus
+dislodging the stone, which will sink him to the bottom, and thus
+drown him. The smaller chain or rope will serve as a guide to the
+trap, and the victim may be drawn to the surface. Another plan is
+to set the trap in about a foot of water, chaining it fast to a stout
+pole securely driven in the mud further out in the stream, and
+near deep water. Bait as before. The trap being thus fastened will
+prevent the efforts of the animal to drag it ashore, where he would
+be certain to amputate his leg and walk off. There is another method,
+which is said to work excellently. The chain is secured to a very
+heavy stone, and sunk in deep water, and the trap set and baited
+near shore, in about a foot of water. This accomplishes the same
+purpose as the pole first described, and is even surer, as the animal
+will sometimes use his teeth in severing the wood, and thereby make
+his escape. In the case of the stone a duplicate rope or chain
+will be required to lift it in case of capture.
+
+The trap may be set at the entrance to the holes in the banks,
+two or three inches under water, implanting the stick with the
+castoreum bait directly over the pan, a few inches above the water.
+If the water should be deep near this spot, it is an excellent plan
+to weight the end of the chain with a large stone with a "leader"
+from it also, as already described. Insert two or three sticks in
+the bank beneath the water, and rest the stone upon them.
+
+When the beaver is caught he will turn a somersault into deep water,
+at the same time dislodging the stone, which will sink him. No sooner
+is a break ascertained in the dam than all the beavers unite in
+fixing it, and this peculiarity of habit may be turned to account in
+trapping them. Make a slight break in the dam, five inches across,
+beneath the water. On the under side of the break, and of course,
+on the inside of the dam, the trap should be set. The beavers will
+soon discover the leak and the capture of at least _one_ is certain.
+The trap may be also set where the beavers are wont to crawl on
+shore, being placed several inches below the water in such a position
+that they will step on it when in the act of ascending the banks.
+Where the weighted stone is not used, the sliding pole page 145
+[Page 182]
+should always be employed, as it is necessary to drown the animal,
+to prevent amputation and escape.
+
+The food of the beaver consists chiefly of the bark of various
+trees, together with aquatic plants. The fur is valuable only in
+the late fall, winter, and early spring.
+
+In skinning the beaver, a slit is made from the under jaw to the
+vent, after which it is easily removed. It should be tacked to a flat
+board, fur side in, or stretched by means of a hoop, as described
+on page 275.
+
+
+THE MUSKRAT.
+
+The muskrat, or musquash, is very much like a beaver on a small
+scale, and is so well-known throughout the United States that a
+detailed description or illustration will hardly be necessary.
+Reduce the size of the beaver to one foot in length, and add a
+long flattened tail, instead of the spatula-shaped appendage of
+this animal, and we will have a pretty good specimen of a muskrat.
+The body has that same thick-set appearance, and the gnawing teeth
+are very large and powerful. Like the beaver, the muskrat builds
+its dome-like huts in ponds or swamps, which it frequents; and
+although not as large as those of the beaver they are constructed
+in the same manner and of the same materials. Muskrats are mostly
+nocturnal in their habits; they are tireless swimmers, and in the
+winter travel great distances beneath the ice; all of which
+peculiarities are like the beaver. Their food is quite variable,
+consisting of grass and roots, oats, corn and other grain, apples
+and nuts, and even tomatoes, turnips, carrots, mussels and clams,
+whenever these can be found.
+
+The muskrat is a native of all of the Eastern, Western, and Middle
+States and also the Southern States, with the exception of Georgia,
+Alabama and Florida. They are also found in Canada and the Arctic
+regions, and in the North-west. They are hunted and captured as
+a means of support to the native tribes of Indians who sell or
+trade the furs to Eastern dealers. The fur somewhat resembles that
+of the mink in texture, although not as fine, and the color varies
+from dark brown above to grey beneath. It is in its best condition
+during the winter, especially in March. The animal possesses a
+musky smell, from which it takes its name. It is said by many that
+the flesh of the animal, when carefully prepared, becomes quite
+palatable food.
+
+Their houses are so nearly like those of the beaver that a
+[Page 183]
+second description is scarcely necessary. They are often five or
+six feet in height, and the entrances are all under water. Dozens
+of these huts may often be seen in ponds and marshes, and sometimes
+they exist in such numbers as to give the appearance of a veritable
+Esquimaux village. These houses are used only in the winter season.
+In general the muskrat lives in burrows, which it excavates in the
+banks of ponds or streams, bringing forth its young, from three
+to nine in number, in the nest, which it forms at the end of the
+tunnel. They are very prolific, producing three litters a year. Like
+the beaver, otter and mink, the muskrat can travel long distances
+under the ice with only one supply of fresh air, and its method
+is certainly very interesting. Before plunging beneath the ice
+the animal fills its lungs with air, and when under the water it
+swims until it can no longer hold its breath. It then rises up
+beneath the ice, empties its lungs, the air remaining in bubbles
+beneath the ice. In a short time this air absorbs sufficient oxygen
+from the water and ice as to be life-sustaining, when the animal
+again inhales it and proceeds on its journey. It is by this means
+that the beaver, muskrat and mink are enabled to travel such great
+distances beneath unbroken ice, and it is certainly a very novel
+and interesting method. Where the ice is thin and transparent these
+animals are sometimes captured through the means of this habit.
+A heavy stroke on the frozen hut will drive its occupants to the
+water, and their course may easily be followed through the ice.
+If one of them is tracked, he will presently be seen to stop at
+the surface of the water for fresh oxygen, as already described.
+The bubbles will soon appear, and if the hunter immediately strikes
+with an axe or heavy stick directly on the spot, the submerged
+animal will be literally driven away from its breath, and will
+of course drown in a very few minutes. A short search will soon
+reveal the dead creature, after which he may be taken out through
+a hole cut in the ice. Otter and mink are sometimes taken in the
+same way. In many localities great numbers of muskrats are also
+captured by spearing, either through the ice or through the walls
+of their houses. In the latter case, two are often taken at once.
+This method is quite uncertain and unreliable, as the walls of
+the hut are often so firmly frozen as to defy the thrust of the
+hardest steel, and a fruitless attempt will drive the inmates from
+their house at once. The spear generally used consists of a single
+shaft of steel about eighteen inches in length and half an inch
+in diameter, barbed at the point, and is feruled to a
+[Page 184]
+solid handle five feet long. In spearing through the hut the south
+side is generally selected, as being more exposed to the heat of
+the sun. Great caution is necessary, as the slightest noise will
+drive out the inmates. The spear should be thrust in a slanting
+direction, a few inches above the surface of the ice. Where many
+houses exist it is well to destroy all but one. Into this the whole
+tribe will centre, and by successive spearing they may all be captured.
+When the spear has been thrust into the house, it must be thus
+left until a hole is cut with a hatchet, through which to remove
+the game. Spearing through the ice is a better method, but for
+general service there is no means of capture more desirable than
+by trapping. The steel trap No. 1 or 2 is the size particularly
+adapted for the muskrat, and may be set in various ways. The most
+common method is to set the trap under two inches of water on the
+projecting logs or stones on the border of the streams where the
+"signs" of the animal indicate its recent presence. The trap should
+of course be secured by a chain, ringed to a sliding pole, page
+145, which will lead the animal into deep water when captured,
+and thus effect its speedy death by drowning. In this case bait is
+not necessary. If their feeding grounds can be discovered, or if
+their tracks indicate any particular spot where they crawl ashore
+at the water's edge, at this point a trap may be set with good
+success. In this instance it is well also to set it under water,
+baiting with a piece of turnip, parsnip, apple, or the like, suspended
+a few inches above the pan of the trap. Late in the fall, when
+collecting their building material, they often form large beds of
+dried grasses and sticks, and a trap set in these beds and covered
+with some loose substance, such as grass, chaff, or the like, will
+often secure the animal. The trap, in this case should be attached
+to a spring-pole, page 145 as the muskrat is a wonderful adept
+at self-amputation, when its escape depends upon it.
+
+The trap is sometimes set in the interior of the house, and may
+be accomplished by first breaking an opening in the wall, near
+the ice, the trap being inserted and set, afterwards covering it
+with the loose grass and moss, which is generally abundant in the
+interior of these huts. When this is done, the chain should be
+secured to a stick on the outside, and the hole repaired. No spring
+or sliding-pole is necessary in this method, as the animal when
+caught will immediately run for the water, and the weight of the
+trap will sink and drown its prisoner.
+
+Scent baits are sometimes used in trapping the muskrat, the
+[Page 185]
+musk taken from the female animal being particularly valued. The
+Oils of Rhodium and Amber, page 151 are also successfully employed
+by many trappers; a few drops of either in the neighborhood of
+the trap, or directly upon it, being sufficient.
+
+Although steel traps are most generally used, there are several
+other devices which are equally if not even _more_ desirable. Chief
+among these is the barrel trap, commonly and successfully employed
+in many parts of New England, where these animals often exist in
+such numbers as to render their destruction a matter of necessity.
+
+The above trap consists merely of an old barrel, sunk to its upper
+edge in the river bank, and about half filled with water. On the
+surface of the water a few light pieces of wood are floated, over
+which the bait, consisting of carrot, sweet apple, or turnip, is
+placed. A trail is then made by dragging a piece of scented meat
+from the barrel in various directions, and a few pieces of the
+bait are also strewn along these trails. The muskrats will thus
+be led to the barrel, and will be certain to jump in after the
+tempting morsels, and their escape is impossible. No less than
+a dozen muskrats have been thus caught in a single barrer in one
+night, and a few of these traps have been known almost to exterminate
+the musquashes in localities where they had previously existed in
+such numbers as to become a pestilence to the neighborhood.
+
+A barrel trap constructed on the principle described on page 131
+is also equally effective, although rather more complicated in
+construction. The Twitch-up is often used, and possesses the advantage
+of a trap and spring-pole combined. Box traps, page 103, are also
+to be recommended.
+
+The skin of the muskrat may be removed in the same manner as hereinafter
+described for the otter, with the exception of the tail. This is
+considered the best method. It may also be taken off flat by ripping
+from the under jaw to the vent, and peeling around the eyes and
+mouth, letting the skin of the legs come off whole, without cutting.
+
+Another common method consists in cutting off the feet, and then
+ripping with a knife from the front of the lower jaw down the neck
+and belly to a point a little beyond the forelegs. The lips, eyes, and
+ears are then carefully skinned, and the hide is stripped backwards
+from the body. In the latter method the bow-stretcher, page 274,
+is used.
+
+
+[Page 186]
+THE OTTER.
+
+The fur of this animal is of such exquisite softness and beauty
+as to be in great demand for commercial purposes, bringing a very
+high price in the fur market.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The otter cannot be said to be a common animal, although it is
+found throughout the United States and Canada, being rather more
+plentiful in the cold northern localities than in the southern
+latitudes. It is an amphibious animal, and can remain for a long
+time beneath the water. In size it is larger than a cat, and it
+possesses a tapering tail some eighteen inches in length. Its fur
+is of a rich brown color, and the hair is of two kinds, the one a
+close, fine, and exquisitely soft down, which lies next the skin,
+and which serves to protect the animal from the extremes of heat and
+cold, and the other composed of long shining coarser hairs, which
+permit the animal to glide easily through the water. In producing
+the beautiful otter furs of fashion these long hairs are plucked
+out, leaving only the softer down next the hide. The food of the
+otter mostly consists of fish, for the pursuit of which he has
+been admirably endowed by nature. His body is lithe and supple,
+and his feet are furnished with a broad web, which connects the
+toes, and is of infinite service in propelling the animal through
+[Page 187]
+the water when in search of his finny prey. His long, broad and flat
+tail serves as a most effectual rudder, and the joints of his powerful
+legs are so flexible as to permit of their being turned in almost any
+direction.
+
+The habitation of the otter is made in the banks of the river which
+it frequents, or sometimes in a hollow log or crevice beneath rocks.
+The animal generally prefers to adopt and occupy a natural hollow
+or deserted excavation, rather than to dig a burrow for itself.
+The nest is composed of dry rushes, grasses and sticks, and the
+young, three or four in number, are produced in early spring.
+
+The _track_ which the otter makes in the mud or snow is easily
+distinguished from that of any other animal, on account of the
+"seal" or impression which is made by a certain ball on the sole of
+the foot. Otter hunting is a favorite sport in England, and indeed
+in the northern parts of our own country. Hounds are used to pursue
+the animal, and on account of the powerfully scented secretion with
+which the creature is furnished by nature, its track is readily
+followed. When attacked, the otter is a fierce and terrible fighter,
+biting and snapping with most deadly energy and never yielding as
+long as life remains in the body. The bite of an angry otter is
+extremely severe, and for this reason we would caution the amateur
+trapper on handling the animal should one be taken alive.
+
+Although so fierce and savage when attacked, the otter is easily
+tamed when taken young, and can be taught to catch fish for the
+service of its master, rather than for the gratification of its
+own palate.
+
+In the winter when the snow is on the ground, the otter navigates
+by sliding, and when on the ice he may often be seen to run a few
+steps and then throw himself on his belly and slide the distance
+of several feet. They are very fond of playing in the snow, and
+make most glorious use of any steep snow-covered bank, sloping
+toward the river. Ascending to the top of such an incline they
+throw themselves on the slippery surface and thus slide swiftly
+into the water. This pastime is often continued for hours, and
+is taken advantage of in trapping the playful creatures. A short
+search will reveal the place where they crawl from the water on
+to the bank, and at this spot, which will generally be shallow,
+a steel trap should be set on the bed of the river, about four
+inches under water. The trap should be secured by a stout chain,
+the latter being ringed to a sliding pole, page 145, which will
+lead the animal when caught into deep
+[Page 188]
+water. If deep water is not near at hand, the spring pole, page
+144, may be used, the object of either being to prevent the animal
+from gnawing off its leg and thus making its escape.
+
+The trap may also be placed at the top or the slide, two or three
+feet back of the slope, a place being hollowed out to receive it
+and the whole covered with snow. To make success more certain a
+log may be laid on each side of the trap, thus forming an avenue
+in which the animal will be sure to run before throwing itself on
+the slope. Care should be taken to handle nothing with the bare
+hands, as the otter is very keen scented and shy. Anoint the trap
+with a few drops of fish oil or otter musk, see page 151. If none
+of these are handy, ordinary musk will answer very well.
+
+The trap may also be set and weighted with a heavy stone and chain,
+as described for trapping the beaver. Another method still is to
+find some log in the stream having one end projecting above water.
+Sprinkle some musk on this projecting end and set the trap on the
+log in three or four inches of water, securing it firmly by a chain,
+also beneath the water.
+
+A rock which projects over the stream may also be utilized in the
+same way as seen in the page title at the opening of this section.
+Smear the musk on the edge which juts into the water, and secure
+the trap by the chain as before. When the animal is caught he will
+fall or jump into the water, and the weight of the trap and chain
+will sink him. In every case it is necessary to obliterate every
+sign of human presence by throwing water over every foot print, and
+over everything with which the naked hands have come in contact.
+Where the traps are thus set in the water it should be done while
+wading or in a boat. In the winter when the ponds and rivers are
+frozen over the otters make holes through the ice at which they
+come up to devour their prey. Where the water is a foot deep beneath
+any of these holes the trap may be set in the bottom, the chain
+being secured to a heavy stone. When the otter endeavors to emerge
+from the hole he will press his foot on the trap and will thus
+be caught. If the water is deep beneath the hole the trap may be
+baited with a small fish attached to the pan, and then carefully
+lowered with its chain and stone to the bottom. For this purpose
+the Newhouse, No. 3, is best adapted, as the otter is in this case
+caught by the head.
+
+The beaten track of the animal may often be discovered in the snow
+in the winter time, and a trap carefully sunk in such a furrow
+and covered so as to resemble its surroundings, will be likely
+to secure the first otter that endeavors to pass over it. A trap
+set at the mouth of the otter's burrow and carefully covered
+[Page 189]
+is also often successful, using the sliding pole, page 145, to lead
+him into deep water.
+
+Every trapper has his pet theories and methods of trapping all
+the different animals, and the otter has its full share. We have
+given several of the _best_ methods; and anyone of them will secure
+the desired result of capture, and all of them have stood the test
+of time and experience.
+
+The skin of the otter should be removed whole, and the operation
+may be performed in the following manner: Slit down the hind legs
+to the vent; cut the skin loose around the vent, and slit up the
+entire length of the tail, freeing it from the bone. With the aid
+of the knife the skin should now be peeled off, drawing it backward
+and carefully cutting around the mouth and eyes before taking it
+from the head.
+
+With the fur thus inside, the skin is ready for the stretcher as
+described on page 273, and the tail should be spread out and tacked
+around the edges.
+
+
+THE MINK.
+
+This animal, as will be seen by our illustration, has a long, slender
+body, something like the weasel, to which scientific family it
+belongs. It inhabits the greater part of North America, and is also
+found abundantly in Northern Europe. The color of its fur varies
+considerably in different individuals, the general tint being a rich,
+dark brown. The chin and throat are light colored, sometimes white,
+and this spot varies considerably in size in different individuals,
+sometimes extending down on the throat to a considerable distance.
+The total length of the animal is from thirteen to sixteen inches,
+its size being variable.
+
+The fur of the mink is excellent in quality, and has for many years
+been one of the "fancy furs" of fashion, a good prime skin often
+bringing from ten to twelve dollars. The introduction of the fur
+seal, however, and the universal demand for this as well as otter
+fur, has somewhat thrown the mink into comparative shade, although
+extra fine skins will still command high prices.
+
+The mink is an aquatic animal, inhabiting small rivers and streams,
+and living somewhat after the manner of the otter. It has a most
+wide range of diet, and will eat almost anything which is at all
+eatable. Fishes, frogs, and muskrats are his especial delight,
+and he will occasionally succeed in pouncing upon a snipe or wild
+duck, which he will greedily devour. Crawfish,
+[Page 190]
+snails, and water insects of all kinds also come within the
+range of his diet, and he sometimes makes a stray visit to some
+neighboring poultry yard to satisfy the craving of his abnormal
+hunger. A meal off from his own offspring often answers the same
+purpose; and a young chicken in the egg he considers the ne plus
+ultra of delicacies. The voracity of this animal is its leading
+characteristic, and is so largely in excess of its cunning or sagacity
+that it will often run headlong into a naked trap. Its sense of
+smell is exceedingly well developed, and through this faculty it
+is often enabled to track its prey with ease and certainty. The
+mink lives in burrows, in steep banks, or between rocks or the
+roots of trees, and the young, five or six in number, are brought
+forth in May.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The chief occupation of the mink consists in perpetual search for
+something to eat, and, when so engaged, he may be seen running
+along the bank of the stream, peering into every nook and corner,
+and literally "leaving no stone unturned" in its eager search.
+Taking advantage of this habit, it becomes an easy matter to trap
+the greedy animal. Set your trap, a Newhouse No. 2, in an inch
+of water near the edge of the stream, and directly in front of
+a steep bank or rock, on which you can place your bait. The bait
+may be a frog, fish, or head of a
+[Page 191]
+bird, suspended about eighteen inches above the water, and should
+be so situated that in order to reach it, the mink will be obliged
+to tread upon the trap. The trap may also be set in the water and
+the bait suspended eighteen inches above it, by the aid of a switch
+planted in the mud near the trap. It is a good plan to scent the
+bait with an equal mixture of sweet oil and peppermint, with a
+little honey added. If there is deep water near, the sliding pole,
+page 145, should be used, and if not, the "spring pole" in every
+case, in order to prevent the captured mink from becoming a prey to
+larger animals, and also to guard against his escape by amputation,
+which he would otherwise most certainly accomplish.
+
+The trap may be set on the land, near the water's edge, baiting
+as just described, and lightly covered with leaves or dirt. Any
+arrangement of the trap whereby the animal is obliged to tread
+upon it in order to secure the bait, will be found effectual.
+
+The trap may be set at the foot of a tree, and the bait fastened
+to the trunk, eighteen inches above it. A pen, such as is described
+on page 144, may be constructed, and the trap and bait arranged as
+there directed. Minks have their regular beaten paths, and often
+visit certain hollow logs in their runways. In these logs they
+leave unmistakable signs of their presence, and a trap set in such
+a place is sure of success.
+
+Some trappers set a number of traps along the stream at intervals
+of several rods, connecting them by a trail, see page 153, the mink
+being thus led directly and almost certainly to his destruction.
+This trail is made by smearing a piece of wood with the "medicine"
+described at page 153, and dragging it on the line of the traps.
+Any mink which crosses this trail will follow it to the first trap,
+when he will, in all probability, be captured. A dead muskrat, crow,
+fish, or a piece of fresh meat dragged along the line answers the
+same purpose. The beaten tracks of the mink may often be discovered,
+and a trap set in such a track and covered with leaves, dirt or the
+like, will often be successful.
+
+Minks may also be easily caught in the dead-fall. Garrote trap
+or a twitch-up, baiting with fish, muskrat, flesh, or the head
+of a bird, of which the animal is especially fond. A liberal use
+of the "medicine" is also desirable.
+
+The fur of the mink is in its best condition in the late autumn,
+winter, and early spring, and the animal should be skinned as described
+for the fox.
+
+
+[Page 192]
+THE PINE MARTEN.
+
+This animal belongs to the tribe of "weasels," and is closely allied
+to the celebrated sable, which it greatly resembles. The pine marten
+is so called because it inhabits the northern climates where pine
+forests abound, and spends much of its life in the trees in search
+of its prey. Its general appearance is truly represented in our
+illustration, its fur being of a rich brown color, with a lighter
+or white patch on the throat. Its total length, including the tail,
+is about twenty-eight or thirty inches, of which the tail represents
+ten inches. It is mostly confined to the forests in the far north,
+and is comparatively rare further south than the latitude of Maine
+and the lakes. The fur of the pine marten is of considerable value,
+particularly if the animal be killed in the winter. A really fine
+skin is but little inferior to the celebrated sable, and is hardly
+distinguishable from it. The hair is long and glossy, and the under
+fur is beautifully soft and very thick. The dark colored skins are
+the most valuable. Although so nearly like the sable, the same
+comparison does not exist in regard to their proportionate market
+values, the marten fur bringing a much lower price.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The marten is a shy and wary animal, withdrawing itself as far
+as possible from the sight of man, and building its habitation in
+the tops of trees, often seizing on the ready nest of some squirrel
+or bird, and adapting it to its purposes.
+
+[Page 193]
+It is a night prowler, and in the dark hours it traverses the trunks
+and branches of the trees in search of its prey. It moves with
+wonderful stealth and activity, and is enabled by its rapid and
+silent approach to steal unnoticed on many an unfortunate bird
+or squirrel, seizing it in its deadly grip before the startled
+creature can think to escape. Coming across a bird's nest, it makes
+sad havoc with the eggs or young, often adding the parent bird
+to his list of victims. Rabbits, partridges, and mice also fall
+into the marten's "bill of fare," and the list is often further
+increased by a visit to a poultry yard, when the animal murders
+and eats all it can and kills the rest for sport. In pouncing upon
+its prey, the marten invariably seizes its victim by the throat,
+often dispatching the luckless creature with a single bite.
+
+The martens generally are said to be very susceptible to human
+influence when taken young, and are very lively in a state of
+domestication. They are among the most graceful of animals, and
+in place of the disagreeable scent which renders many of their
+tribe offensive, this creature possesses an odor which is quite
+agreeable, and for this reason is often called the sweet marten
+in contradistinction to the foul marten or pole cat of Britain,
+which is like unto our skunk in the disgusting stench which it
+exhales.
+
+The dead-fall and Garrote traps are very successful in trapping
+the martin. They should be set several rods apart, in the forest
+or on the banks of streams, and a trail established by dragging
+a dead or roasted crow, entrails of a bird, or fresh meat from
+one trap to another, as described in relation to the mink, page
+190. The twitch-up may also be used, and possesses the additional
+advantage of acting as a spring pole, thus holding the captured
+victim out of reach of larger animals, to which it might otherwise
+become a prey. Any of the varieties described under the title of
+"twitch-up" will answer the purpose, and a little experimenting
+will soon prove which one will be the most successful for this
+particular animal. The bait may consist of a bird's or fowl's head,
+fish, liver, or any fresh meat or entrails.
+
+The common box trap, page 103, or the box snare, page 56, may also
+be used to good purpose, but the former will need to be carefully
+watched lest the enclosed prisoner gnaw his way out and thus escape.
+
+When the steel trap is employed, it should be of the size of Newhouse,
+No. 2-1/2, set on the ground beneath some rock,
+[Page 194]
+and covered with leaves, rotten wood, or earth, and the bait fastened
+or suspended about eighteen inches above it, in such a position
+that the animal will be obliged to step upon the trap in order to
+reach it. An enclosure may be constructed of stones piled together,
+the trap being set and covered in the opening and the bait secured
+at the back. A staked pen, such as is described on page 143, with
+the trap and bait arranged as there directed, also works well.
+Wherever or however the trap is set, the bait should be so placed
+that the animal cannot possibly climb on any neighboring object to
+reach it. The hollow of a tree trunk forms an excellent situation
+for the trap, and the same hollow may also be baited at the back
+and a dead-fall constructed across its opening. The box or barrel
+pit-fall, described on page 127, is said to be very successful in
+trapping the marten, always baiting it with the platform secure
+for a few days before setting for capture. The same methods directed
+for the capture of the mink are also useful in trapping the marten.
+The animal should be skinned as described for the fox.
+
+
+THE FISHER.
+
+This animal is classed among the martens, and is principally to
+be found in Canada and the Northern United States, where it is
+known as the black cat, or woodshock. In our natural histories it
+is described under the name of the pekan.
+
+In general habits, this species resembles the other martens, but its
+body inclines more to the weasel shape. The fur is quite valuable,
+and much resembles the sable. Its color is generally of a greyish
+brown, the grey tint being found chiefly on the back, neck, head
+and shoulders, the legs, tail, and back of the neck being marked
+with dark brown. Like the marten, the fisher prowls by night,
+frequenting swampy places in quest of food.
+
+It builds its habitation in hollow trees, and in burrows, which it
+excavates in the banks of rivers or streams, and its young (generally
+twins) are produced in early spring. The trapping season for the
+fisher commences at about the middle of October, and extends to
+the middle of May, after which time the fur decreases in value.
+
+In trapping the fisher, the same plans may be used as for the marten
+and mink, as these animals much resemble each other in general
+habits. The steel trap arranged in an artificial or
+[Page 195]
+natural enclosure, or otherwise so set as that the animal will be
+obliged to step on it in order to reach the bait, will be successful
+and the use of composition "scent bait," described on page 153 will
+be found to enhance success. In every case where the steel trap
+is used the spring pole, page 144, should always be employed, for
+the reasons already described.
+
+Dead-falls, garrotes, box-traps, twitch-ups, or pit-falls, may
+all be employed to good advantage. Bait with a fish or bird, or
+fresh meat of any kind, and connect the various traps by a trail,
+as described for the mink and marten.
+
+Remove the skin as directed for the fox, and stretch as described
+on page 273.
+
+
+THE SKUNK.
+
+This disgusting animal has won the unenviable but deserving reputation
+of being the most foul-smelling creature on the face of the globe.
+He belongs to the weasel tribe, and all these animals are noted
+for certain odors which they possess, but the skunk is pre-eminent
+in the utter noisomeness of the horrid effluvium which it exhales.
+
+This scent proceeds from a liquid secretion which collects in a
+gland beneath the insertion of the tail, and the animal has the
+power to eject or retain it at will.
+
+It must have been given to the creature as a means of defence,
+for there seems to be no animal that can withstand the influence
+of its fetid stench. Dogs are trained to hunt the animal, but until
+they have learned from experience the right method of attacking the
+fetid game, and have discovered the whereabouts of the animal's
+magazine of ammunition, they are of little use to the hunter, and
+are only too glad to plunge into some neighboring brook, or roll
+in some near earth, in hopes of ridding themselves of the stench
+which almost distracts them. The offensive propensities of the
+skunk are only exercised when the animal is alarmed or frightened.
+There are generally certain "premonitory symptoms" of attack which
+the creature usually exhibits, and it is well to retire from his
+"shooting range" as soon as they are observed.
+
+When the animal is ready to discharge his battery, he suddenly
+elevates his large bushy tail, over his body, and turns his back
+on his enemy. The result of the discharge fills the air for a great
+distance around, and man and beast fly from the neighborhood of
+the indescribable and fetid effluvium, which fairly makes one's
+nostrils _ache_.
+
+[Page 196]
+A single drop of this disgusting secretion on the clothes is enough
+to scent the whole garment, and it is almost impossible to rid
+the tainted fabric from the odor.
+
+It is extremely acrid in quality, and if a very small quantity
+fall upon the eyes, it is very apt to produce permanent blindness.
+
+Dogs, in their first experiences with the skunk, are frequently
+thus blinded, and there are well authenticated instances of human
+beings who have been deprived of their sight through their close
+proximity to an infuriated skunk.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The writer, in his extreme youth, learned, through dear experience,
+the putrid qualities of this noisome quadruped. It was on one bright
+Sunday, in New England, and he was out in his Sunday clothing,
+gathering wild strawberries. He suddenly discovered a pretty little
+playful animal with bushy tail, romping in the grass near him.
+The creature was seemingly gentle, and showed no inclination to
+run away, and the pet-loving nature of the writer prompted an
+irresistible desire to capture so pretty a creature. Encouraged
+by its gentle manner, he eagerly ran towards the tempting prize,
+and grasping it by the bushy tail, which the animal had raised
+perpendicularly, as if for a handle, the pretty creature was locked
+[Page 197]
+in the affectionate embrace of its youthful admirer. But alas! he
+soon repented his rashness, and the treacherous "pet" was quickly
+flung away leaving its victim in such a foul state of overwhelming
+astonishment as can be more easily imagined than described.
+
+Every article of clothing worn on that eventful Sunday had to be
+buried, and it took weeks of Sundays before the odor could be thoroughly
+eradicated from the hair and skin of the individual who wore those
+Sunday garments. After this adventure, the youth became more cautious
+with respect to pretty little playful animals, with black and white
+fur and bushy tails.
+
+There is hardly a farmer in the country but what has had some amusing
+or serious experience with the skunk, and almost every trapper
+has, at one time or another, served as a target for his shooting
+propensities. Natural histories are replete with anecdotes of which
+this animal is the mephitic hero, and volumes might be filled to
+the glory of his strong-smelling qualities.
+
+Perhaps it is through the prejudice of the writer that he cannot
+enthusiastically recommend the skunk as a domestic pet; but it
+is nevertheless asserted, on good authority, that these animals,
+when reared from the young, become very interesting and playful
+in the household, and completely shut down on their objectionable
+faculties.
+
+Our illustration gives a very good idea of the animal, and it is
+so unlike any other creature that a further description will not
+be necessary. The prevailing colors are white and black; but these
+vary much in proportion, the animal sometimes being almost totally
+white, or altogether black. The fur is long, and comparatively coarse,
+being intermixed with long, glossy hairs, and is most valuable in
+the black animal. The body of the creature is about a foot and a
+half in length, exclusive of the tail, which adds about fourteen
+inches more.
+
+The skunk is generally nocturnal in its habits, secreting itself
+during the day in hollow trees, or crevices in rocks, or wood-piles.
+At night it ventures forth in quest of its food, which consists
+chiefly of grasshoppers, worms and other insects, wild fruit and
+such small animals in the shape of frogs, mice and birds as it can
+capture. The poultry yard often offers an irresistible temptation,
+and both fowls and eggs often serve to appease his appetite.
+
+The skunk is common throughout the greater part of North America,
+and in many localities the numbers increase very
+[Page 198]
+rapidly unless checked. The young are brought forth in burrows
+or holes in rocks during April or May, and are from six to nine
+in number.
+
+"Skunk fur" does not sound well when thought of in connection with
+a set of fashionable furs; and for this reason the pelt of this
+animal is dignified by the name of Alaska sable by all dealers in
+the article. When known by this fancy title it suddenly becomes a
+very popular addition to fashion's winter wardrobe, and is one of
+the leading furs which are exported to meet the demand of foreign
+countries. Foul as the animal is, it seldom soils its own fur with
+its offensive fluid; and when carefully skinned the fur is as saleable
+as that of any other animal.
+
+The Skunk is trapped in a variety of ways; and as the animal is
+not cunning, no great skill is required. The steel trap is most
+commonly used, as other wooden varieties, box traps or dead-falls,
+for instance, are apt to absorb and retain the stench of the animal.
+In using the steel trap the size No. 2 should be taken. It may be
+set at the entrance to their burrows or in their feeding grounds.
+It should be covered with loose earth or chaff, or some other light
+substance, and baited with small bits of meat, dead mice, or eggs
+placed around it. The enclosure illustrated on page 143 also answers
+well, and in all cases the spring pole, page 144, should be used.
+The dead-fall, page 107, is often employed, and the twitch-up, page
+43, is a particularly effective contrivance for their capture, often
+preventing the evil consequences of the odor by causing instant
+dislocation of the neck, and this without injuring the fur. A stroke
+upon the backbone near the tail, by producing paralysis of the
+parts, also prevents the animal from using his offensive powers,
+and a dead-fall so constructed as to fall upon the animal at this
+part will accomplish the same effect. To manage this it is only
+necessary to place the bait far back in the enclosure, so that
+the skunk on reaching it will bring the rear portion of his body
+beneath the suspended log. The scent of the skunk is as we have
+said, almost ineradicable, but we would recommend chloride of lime
+as the most effectual antidote.
+
+It is also said by some trappers that the odor may be dissipated
+by packing the garment in fresh hemlock boughs, letting it thus
+remain for a couple of days. This is certainly a valuable hint
+if true, and is well worth remembering.
+
+For skinning the skunk, see Beaver, Otter and Fox.
+
+
+[Page 199]
+THE WOLVERINE.
+
+This, one of the most ferocious as well as detestable of American
+animals, is principally found in British America and the upper
+portion of the United States. It has won a world wide reputation
+for its fierceness and voracity, and on this account is popularly
+known as the Glutton. It is not confined to America, but is also
+found in Siberia and Northern Europe.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The general appearance of this animal, ugly in disposition as in
+appearance, is truthfully given in our illustration. It is not
+unlike a small bear in looks, and was formerly classed among that
+genus.
+
+The general color of the wolverine is dark brown. The muzzle, as
+far back as the eye-brows, is black, and the immense paws partake
+of the same hue. The claws of the animal are
+[Page 200]
+long and almost white, forming a singular contrast to the jetty fur
+of the feet. So large are the feet of this animal, and so powerful
+the claws, that a mere look at them will tell the story of their
+death dealing qualities, a single stroke from one of them often
+being sufficient for a mortal wound. Although the wolverine is
+not as large as the bear, its foot prints in the snow are often
+mistaken for those of that creature, being nearly of the same size.
+
+The glutton feeds largely on the smaller quadrupeds, and is a most
+determined foe to the beaver during the summer months; the ice-hardened
+walls of their houses serving as a perfect protection against his
+attacks in the winter time.
+
+To the trapper of the north the wolverine is a most detested enemy,
+following the rounds of the traps and either detaching the baits
+or tearing away the dead animals which have fallen a prey to them.
+The trapper's entire circuit will be thus followed in a single
+night, and where the veritable "glutton" does not care to devour
+its victim it will satisfy its ferocious instinct by scratching
+it in pieces, leaving the mutilated remains to tell the story of
+its nocturnal visit.
+
+The wolverine is a dangerous foe to many animals larger than itself,
+and by the professional hunter it is looked upon as an ugly and
+dangerous customer.
+
+There are several methods of trapping this horrid creature, and
+in many localities successful trapping of other animals will be
+impossible without first ridding the neighborhood of the wolverines.
+Dead-falls of large size will be found to work successfully, baiting
+with the body of some small animal, such as a rat or squirrel.
+A piece of cat, beaver or muskrat flesh is also excellent, and
+by slightly scenting with castoreum success will be made sure.
+Several of these traps may be set at intervals, and a trail made
+by dragging a piece of smoked beaver meat between them. The gun
+trap, as described on page 20, will also do good service in
+exterminating this useless and troublesome animal.
+
+Steel traps of size No. 3 or 4 are commonly used to good purpose.
+They may be arranged in any of the various methods already described,
+the plan of the enclosure, page 143, being particularly desirable. In
+all cases the trap should be covered with leaves, moss or the like,
+and the bait slightly scented with castoreum. Like all voracious
+animals, the perpetual greed of the wolverine completely overbalances
+its caution, and thus renders its capture an easy task.
+
+[Page 201]
+The home of the animal is generally in a crevice or cave between
+rocks, and its young, two or three in number, are brought forth
+in May.
+
+In removing the skin, it may be ripped up the belly, or taken off
+whole, as described for the fox.
+
+
+THE OPOSSUM.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The opossum is found more or less throughout nearly all the United
+States. In size it equals a large cat, the tail being about fifteen
+inches long, very flexible and covered with scales. The general
+color of the fur is grayish-white, slightly tinged with yellow,
+[Page 202]
+and the legs are of a brownish hue, which color also surrounds the
+eyes to some extent.
+
+The fur is comparatively soft and wooly, and thickly sprinkled with
+long hairs, white at the base and brown at the tips.
+
+The nature and habits of the animal are very interesting. Its nest
+is made in some sheltered hollow in an old fallen or live tree,
+or beneath overhanging roots or rocks, and composed of moss and
+dead leaves. The young are produced in several litters during the
+year, and when born are transferred by the mother to a pouch situated
+in the lower front portion of her body. Here they remain and are
+nourished by the parent until they are five weeks old, at which
+time they emerge and travel with their mother, and their little
+ring tails do them good service in holding fast to their guardian.
+It is an amusing sight to see a family of young 'possums thus linked
+together, and so "attached to each other."
+
+The opossum is a voracious and destructive animal, prowling about
+during the hours of darkness and prying into every nook and corner in
+hope of finding something that may satisfy the cravings of imperious
+hunger. Rats, mice, nuts, berries, birds, insects and eggs are all
+devoured by this animal; and when not content with these he does
+not hesitate to insinuate himself into the poultry yard, and make
+a meal on the fowls and young chickens. His fondness for fruit and
+Indian corn often leads him to commit great havoc among plantations
+and fruit trees, and his appetite for the fruit of the persimmon tree
+is proverbial. While feeding on these fruits he frequently hangs
+by his tail, as seen in our illustration, gathering the persimmons
+with his fore paws and eating them while thus suspended. He is a
+most agile climber, and his tenacity and terminal resources in
+this direction are admirably depicted in that well known Methodist
+sermon, as follows: "An' you may shake one foot loose, but 'tothers
+thar; an' you may shake _all_ his feet loose, but he laps his tail
+around the lim' an' he clings forever."
+
+He is an adept at feigning death, "playing 'possum" so skilfully
+as frequently to deceive an expert.
+
+"'Possums" are hunted in the Southern States much after the manner
+of coons; and to the negroes a "'possum hunt" signifies most unbounded
+sport."
+
+Though cunning in many ways, the opossum is singularly simple in
+others. There is hardly any animal more easily captured; for it
+will walk into the clumsiest of traps, and permit itself to be
+ensnared by a device at which an American rat would look with utter
+contempt.
+
+[Page 203]
+The dead-fall, garrote, or stout snare may all be employed, being
+baited with any of the substances already described. The steel
+trap 2-1/1 or 3 is most commonly used, being set in the haunts of
+the animal, and slightly scented with musk.
+
+See Fox and Beaver, for directions for skinning, stretching, etc.,
+etc.
+
+
+THE RABBIT.
+
+The rabbit or "cotton tail," as he is familiarly termed, is too
+well-known to need any description here. From Maine to Texas our
+woods abound with these fleet-footed little creatures, of which
+there are several American species. They are the swiftest of all
+American quadrupeds, and have been known to clear over twenty feet
+in a single leap. They are all natural burrowers, although they
+often forego the trouble of excavating a home when one can be found
+already made, and which can be easily modified or adapted to their
+purposes. The common rabbit of New England often makes its home or
+"form," beneath a pile of brush or logs, or in crevices in rocks.
+Here it brings forth its young, of which there are often three
+or four litters a year. The creature becomes a parent at a very
+early age, and by the time that a rabbit is a year old it may have
+attained the dignity of a grand parent.
+
+The food of the rabbit consists of grasses, bark, leaves, bulbs,
+young twigs, buds, berries and the like, and of cultivated vegetables
+of all kinds, when opportunity favors. When surprised in the woods
+it manifests its alarm by violently striking the ground with its
+feet, causing the peculiar sound so often noticed at their first
+jump. The animal is fond of pursuing a beaten path in the woods,
+and is often snared at such places. Its enemies, beside man, are
+the lynx, and other carnivorous animals, hawks, owls, and even
+the domestic cat.
+
+The rabbit is a favorite game with all amateur sportsmen, and the
+devices used in its capture are multitudinous. It is by no means
+a difficult animal to trap, and a glance through the second and
+fourth sections of our book, will reveal many ingenious snares
+and other contrivances, commonly and successfully used.
+
+The Box trap, page 103, is perhaps the most universal example of
+rabbit trap, but the Self-setting trap, page 110, and Double-ender,
+page 109, are also equally effective where the animal is desired
+to be taken alive. If this is not an object, the snare is to be
+recommended as simple in construction and sure in its result.
+
+[Page 204]
+The above constitute the only devices commonly used for the capture
+of the rabbit, the steel trap being dispensed with. On page 109
+will be found additional remarks concerning the rabbit, and many
+hints no baiting, etc., are also given under the heads of the various
+traps above alluded to.
+
+The skin of the rabbit is very thin and tender, and should be carefully
+removed, either as described for the fox, or in the ordinary method,
+by incision up the belly. Full directions for curing and tanning
+the skins will be found under its proper head in a later portion
+of this work.
+
+
+THE WOOD-CHUCK.
+
+This animal also called the marmot, is so well-known to most of
+our readers, that a detailed description will not be necessary,
+suffice it to say that the general color is brownish grey above,
+changing to reddish brown on the under parts. The head, tail and
+feet partaking of a darker color. The length of the animal is about
+a foot and a-half, exclusive of the tail, which is four inches
+long.
+
+The woodchuck is a clumsy looking animal, and anything but active
+in its movements. It is very unintelligent, and is always too ready
+to use its powerful teeth on the hand of any one who may attempt
+to handle it. It is naturally a timid animal, but when cornered
+or brought to bay, it fights most desperately.
+
+The woodchuck is an expert excavator, and where the animals exist
+in large numbers great damage is done by their united burrowing. They
+generally remain in their burrows during the day, only venturing out
+casually to see what is going on, and keeping near their entrance.
+Towards evening they start out to feed, devouring certain grasses
+and weeds, and also pumpkins and green corn with avidity, ever
+and anon sitting upright on their haunches, to see if the coast
+is clear. In case they are surprised in their meal, they hurry
+home in a pell-mell sort of a way, giving as much the appearance
+of rolling as running, but, nevertheless, getting over the ground
+with fair speed for such an unwieldy animal. The skin is loose and
+very tough, and possesses no commercial value, being principally
+used for whiplashes. Their burrows are generally on the slope of
+a hill, and often at the foot of a rock or tree. These tunnels
+vary from ten to thirty feet in length, sloping downward from the
+opening, afterward taking an upward turn and terminating in a roomy
+chamber, in which the animal sleeps in
+[Page 205]
+winter and where the young from three to eight in number are brought
+forth. The woodchuck is found throughout nearly the whole of the
+United States, and is especially abundant in New England, where
+it is a decided nuisance. It is found as far south as Tennessee,
+and westward to the Rocky Mountains. The flesh of the woodchuck
+is by many much esteemed as food, particularly in the Fall. When
+used for this purpose, the animal should be skinned and carefully
+cleaned immediately after death, taking especial care to remove the
+masses of fat which lie inside of the legs, as these, if allowed
+to remain, are sure to taint the flesh in cooking.
+
+The animals are easily caught by setting the traps at the entrance
+of their burrows, and carefully covering them with loose earth,
+no bait being required. They may also be captured by the aid of
+a spring-pole, with noose attached, the pole being bent down and
+caught under a notched stick, and the noose being arranged at the
+opening of the burrow, see page 43, the Woodchuck in passing in
+or out will become entangled in the noose, and in his efforts to
+escape the pole will be loosened from the peg, thus lifting the
+animal in mid-air. Woodchucks are also sometimes drowned out of
+their holes, and the turtle is often put to good use for the purpose
+of smoking the animals from their subterranean dwellings. A ball of
+wicking saturated with kerosene is attached by a wire to the tail
+of the reptile. When the ball is ignited the creature is introduced
+into the entrance of the hole, and of course in fleeing from its
+fiery pursuer it traverses the full length of the burrow, and as
+another matter of course drives out its other occupants, which
+are shot or captured as they emerge.
+
+The woodchunk's skin is generally taken off as described for the
+muskrat, and stretched accordingly.
+
+
+THE GOPHER.
+
+This remarkable little animal somewhat resembles the Mole in its
+general appearance and habits. It is also commonly known as the
+Canada Pouched Rat, and is principally found west of the Mississippi
+and northward. It is a burrowing animal, and like the Mole drives
+its subterranean tunnels in all directions, throwing up little
+hillocks at regular intervals of from five to twenty feet. Its
+body is thick set and clumsy and about ten inches long, and its
+Mole-like claws are especially adapted for digging. Its food consists
+of roots and vegetables, and its
+[Page 206]
+long and projecting incisors are powerful agents in cutting the
+roots which cross its path in making its burrow. The most striking
+characteristic of the animal, and that from which it takes its
+name, consists in the large cheek pouches which hang from each
+side of the mouth and extend back to to shoulders. They are used as
+receptacles of food which the animal hurriedly gathers when above
+ground, afterward returning to its burrow to enjoy its feast at its
+leisure. It was formerly very commonly and erroneously believed
+that the Gopher used its pouches in conveying the earth from its
+burrow, and this is generally supposed at the present day, but
+it is now known that the animal uses these pockets only for the
+conveyance of its food.
+
+The color of the fur is reddish-brown on the upper parts, fading
+to ashy-brown on the abdomen, and the feet are white.
+
+In making its tunnels, the dirt is brought to the surface, thus
+making the little mounds after the manner of the mole. After having
+dug its tunnel for several feet the distance becomes so great as
+to render this process impossible, and the old hole is carefully
+stopped up and a new one made at the newly excavated end of the
+tunnel, the animal continuing on in its labors and dumping from
+the fresh orifice. These mounds of earth occur at intervals on
+the surface of the ground, and although no hole can be discovered
+beneath them, they nevertheless serve to indicate the track of
+the burrow, which lies several inches beneath.
+
+The Gopher is a great pest to western cultivators, and by its root
+feeding and undermining propensities does extensive injury to crops
+generally. They may be successfully trapped in the following manner:
+Strike a line between the two most recent earth mounds, and midway
+between them remove a piece of the sod. By the aid of a trowel
+or a sharp stick the burrow may now be reached. Insert your hand
+in the tunnel and enlarge the interior sufficiently to allow the
+introduction of No. (0) steel trap. Set the trap flatly in the
+bottom of the burrow, and then laying a piece of shingle or a few
+sticks across the excavation replace the sod. Several traps may
+be thus set in the burrows at considerable distances apart, and a
+number of the animals thus taken. The traps are sometimes inserted
+in the burrows from the hillocks, by first finding the hole and
+then enlarging it by inserting the arm and digging with the hand
+beneath. The former method, however, is preferable.
+
+The skin of the Gopher may be pulled off the body either by cutting
+up the hind less, as described in reference to the Fox,
+[Page 207]
+or by making the incision from the lower jaw down the neck, as decided
+for the muskrat, a simple board stretcher being used.
+
+
+THE MOLE.
+
+Of all the mammalia the Mole is entitled to take the first place
+in the list of burrowers. This extraordinary creature does not
+merely dig tunnels in the ground and sit at the end of them, as is
+the case with many animals, but it forms a complicated subterranean
+dwelling place with chambers, passages and other arrangements of
+wonderful completeness. It has regular roads leading to its feeding
+grounds; establishes a system of communication as elaborate as
+that of a modern railway, or, to be more correct, as that of the
+subterranean network of the sewers of a city. It is an animal of
+varied accomplishments. It can run tolerably fast, it can fight
+like a bull-dog, it can capture prey under or above ground, it can
+swim fearlessly, and it can sink wells for the purpose of quenching
+its thirst. Take the mole out of its proper sphere, and it is awkward
+and clumsy as the sloth when placed on level ground, or the seal
+when brought ashore. Replace it in the familiar earth and it becomes
+a different being, full of life and energy, and actuated by a fiery
+activity which seems quite inconsistent with its dull aspect and
+seemingly inert form.
+
+We all know that the mole burrows under the ground, raising at
+intervals the little hillocks or "mole hills" with which we are
+so familiar; but most of us little know the extent or variety of
+its tunnels, or that the animal works on a regular system and does
+not burrow here and there at random. How it manages to form its
+burrows in such admirably straight lines, is not an easy problem,
+because it is always done in black darkness, and we know of nothing
+which can act as a guide to the animal. As for ourselves and other
+eye-possessing creatures, the feat of walking in a straight line
+with closed eyelids is almost an impossibility, and every swimmer
+knows the difficulty of keeping a straight course under water,
+even with the use of his eyes.
+
+The ordinary mole hills, so plentiful in our fields, present nothing
+particularly worthy of notice. They are merely the shafts through
+which the quadruped miner ejects the material which it has scooped
+out, as it drives its many tunnels through the soil, and if they
+be carefully opened after the rain has consolidated the heap of
+loose material, nothing more will be discovered than a simple hole
+leading into the tunnel. But let us
+[Page 208]
+strike into one of the large tunnels, as any mole catcher will
+teach us, and follow it up to the real abode of the animal. The
+hill under which this domicile is hidden, is of considerable size,
+but is not very conspicuous, being always placed under the shelter of
+a tree, shrub, or a suitable bank, and would scarcely be discovered
+but by a practiced eye. The subterranean abode within the hillock
+is so remarkable that it involuntarily reminds the observer of the
+well-known "maze," which has puzzled the earliest years of youth
+throughout many generations. The central apartment, or "keep,"
+if we so term it, is a nearly spherical chamber, the roof of which
+is almost on a level with the earth around the hill, and therefore
+situated at a considerable depth from the apex of the heap. Around
+this keep are driven two circular passages or galleries, one just
+level with the ceiling and the other at some height above. Five
+short descending passages connect the galleries with each other,
+but the only entrance into the keep is from the upper gallery,
+out of which three passages lead into the ceiling of the keep. It
+will be seen therefore that when the mole enters the house from
+one of its tunnels, it has first to get into the lower gallery
+to ascend thence into the upper gallery, and so descend into the
+central chamber. There is, however, another entrance into the keep
+from below. A passage dips downward from the centre of the chamber,
+and then, taking a curve upwards, opens into one of the larger burrows
+or high roads, as they may be fitly termed. It is a noteworthy
+fact that the high roads, of which there are several radiating in
+different directions, never open into the gallery opposite one
+of the entrances into the upper gallery. The mole therefore is
+obliged to go to the right or left as soon as it enters the domicile
+before it can find a passage to the upper gallery. By the continual
+pressure of the moles upon the walls of the passages and roof of
+the central chamber, they become quite smooth, hard, and polished,
+so that the earth will not fall in, even after the severest storm.
+
+The use of so complicated a series of cells and passages is extremely
+doubtful, and our total ignorance of the subject affords another
+reason why the habits of this wonderful animal should be better
+studied.
+
+About the middle of June the moles begin to fall in love, and are
+as furious in their attachments as in all other phases of their
+nature. At that time two male moles cannot meet without mutual
+jealousy, and they straightway begin to fight, scratching, tearing,
+and biting with such insane fury that they seem unconscious
+[Page 209]
+of anything except the heat of battle. Indeed the whole life of
+the mole is one of fury, and he eats like a starving tiger, tearing
+and rending his prey with claws and teeth, and crunching audibly
+the body of the worm between the sharp points. Magnify the mole
+to the size of the lion and you will have a beast more terrible
+than the world has yet seen. Though nearly blind, and therefore
+incapable of following its prey by sight, it would be active beyond
+conception, springing this way and that way as it goes along, leaping
+with lightness and quickness upon any animal which it meets, rending
+it in pieces in a moment, thrusting its blood-thirsty snout into
+the body of its victim, eating the still warm and bleeding flesh,
+and instantly searching for fresh prey. Such a creature would,
+without the least hesitation, devour a serpent twenty feet in length,
+and so terrible would be its voracity that it would eat twenty or
+thirty of such snakes in a day as easily as it devours the same
+number of worms. With one grasp of its teeth and one stroke of
+its claws, it could tear an ox asunder; and if it should happen
+to enter a fold of sheep or enclosure of cattle, it would kill
+them all for the mere lust of slaughter. Let, then, two of such
+animals meet in combat, and how terrific would be the battle! Fear
+is a feeling of which the mole seems to be utterly unconscious,
+and, when fighting with one of its own species, he gives his whole
+energies to the destruction of his opponent without seeming to heed
+the injuries inflicted upon himself. From the foregoing sketch
+the reader will be able to estimate the extraordinary energies of
+this animal, as well as the wonderful instincts with which it is
+endowed.
+
+The fur of the mole is noted for its clean, velvety aspect; and
+that an animal should be able to pass unsoiled through earth of
+all textures is a really remarkable phenomenon. It is partly to
+be explained by the character of the hair, and partly by that of
+the skin. The hair of the mole is peculiar on account of its want
+of "set." The tops of the hairs do not point in any particular
+direction, but may be pressed equally forward or backward or to
+either side. The microscope reveals the cause of this peculiarity.
+The hair is extremely fine at its exit from the skin, and gradually
+increases in thickness until it reaches its full width when it
+again diminishes. This alternation occurs several times in each
+hair, and gives the peculiar velvet-like texture with which we
+are all so familiar. There is scarcely any coloring matter in the
+slender portion of the hair, and the beautiful changeable coppery
+[Page 210]
+hues of the fur is owing to this structure. Another reason for the
+cleanliness of the fur is the strong, though membranous muscle beneath
+the skin. While the mole is engaged in travelling, particularly in
+loose earth, the soil for a time clings to the fur; but at tolerably
+regular intervals the creature gives the skin a sharp and powerful
+shake, which throws off at once the whole of the mould that has
+collected upon the fur. Some amount of dust still remains, for,
+however clean the fur of a mole may seem to be, if the creature
+be placed for an hour in water, a considerable quantity of earth
+will be dissolved away and fall to the bottom of the vessel. The
+improvement in the fur after being well washed with soft tepid
+water and soap, is almost incredible. Many persons have been struck
+with such admiration for the fur of the mole, that they have been
+desirous of having a number of the skins collected and made into a
+waist-coat. This certainly can be done, but the garment thus made
+is so very hot that it can only be worn in winter. Such garments
+are very expensive, and owing to the tender quality of the skin,
+possess but little lasting powers. There is also a wonderfully
+strong smell about the mole; so strong, indeed, that dogs will
+sometimes point at moles instead of game, to the great disgust
+of their masters. This odor adheres obstinately to the skin, and
+even in furs which have been dried for more than ten years, this
+peculiar savor has been noticed.
+
+We have given much space to the mole, not particularly on account
+of its particular usefulness to the trapper, but because of its
+many claims to our notice. If the creature were a rare and costly
+inhabitant of some distant land, how deep would be the interest
+which it would incite. But because it is a creature of our country,
+and to be found in every field, there are but few who care to examine
+a creature so common, or who experience any feelings save those
+of disgust when they see a mole making its way over the ground
+in search of a soft spot in which to burrow.
+
+In many localities this interesting animal exists in such numbers
+as to become a positive nuisance, and the invention of a trap which
+would effectually curtail their depredations has been a problem
+to many a vexed and puzzled farmer.
+
+Mole traps of various kinds have found their way into our agricultural
+papers, but none has proved more effectual than the one we describe
+on page 119. An arrangement of the _figure four_, page 107, is
+also sometimes employed with good success. In this case the bait
+stick crosses the upright stick close to the ground, and rests over
+[Page 211]
+the burrow of the mole, the earth being previously pressed down to
+the surrounding level. The stone should be narrow and very heavy, and
+of course no bait is required.
+
+The pieces should be set carefully, and so adjusted that the lifting
+of the soil beneath the stick as the mole forces its way through
+the compressed earth will dislodge the bait stick and let down
+the stone with its crushing weight.
+
+Another method consists in embedding a deep flower pot in one of
+the main tunnels of the animal, and carefully replacing the soil
+above. The mole in traversing his burrow thus falls into the pit
+and is effectually captured. This is a very ingenious mode of taking
+the animal, and rewarded its inventor with seven moles on the first
+night of trial.
+
+There are a number of other devices said to work excellently, but
+the above we believe to be the most effectual of all.
+
+There are several species of American moles, the star-nosed variety
+being familiar to most of us. The most common moles are the shrew
+moles, with pointed noses. The silver mole is a large species, of
+a changeable silvery color, found on the Western prairies. The
+Oregon mole is nearly black, with purplish or brownish reflections.
+
+The most beautiful of all the moles is found at the Cape of Good
+Hope. It is of about the size of the ordinary American species, and
+its soft fur glistens with brilliant green and golden reflections.
+The fur of this species is probably the most wonderful and beautiful
+in the whole animal kingdom.
+
+
+SQUIRRELS.
+
+There are many species of squirrels found in the United States,
+but their fur is of little value, and of trifling importance in
+the fur trade; the squirrel fur of our markets being that of a
+small grey European variety. Squirrels, as a class, possess much
+the same peculiarities and habits. Their claws are particularly
+adapted for life among the trees; their tails are long and bushy,
+covering over the backs of the animals when in a sitting posture.
+They are all lithe and quick of movement, and their senses of sight
+and hearing are especially keen. They are constantly on the alert,
+and are full of artifice when pursued. Their food consists chiefly
+of nuts, fruits, and grain, but when pushed by hunger, there is
+no telling what they will not eat. They generally provide for the
+[Page 212]
+winter months by laying up a store of the foregoing provisions,
+either in holes in trees or interstices in the bark, or in cavities
+under ground. The shag-bark hickory offers an especial inducement to
+these provident creatures in the numerous crevices and cracks
+throughout the bark. It is not an uncommon thing to find whole
+handfuls of nuts carefully packed away in one of these cracks, and
+a sharp stroke with an ax in the trunk of one of these trees will
+often dislodge numbers of the nuts. The writer has many a time gone
+"nutting" in this way in the middle of winter with good success. The
+nests of squirrels are generally built in trees, either in a crotch
+between the branches or in some deserted woodpecker's hole. Some
+species live in burrows in the ground, and those individuals who
+are lucky enough to be in the neighborhood of a barn often make their
+abode therein, taking their regular three meals a day from the granary.
+In many localities these animals thus become a perfect pest to the
+farmers, and their destruction becomes a matter of urgent necessity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Squirrels, although resembling each other much as regards
+[Page 213]
+their general habits, differ considerably in the size and color
+of the different species.
+
+The principal varieties found on our continent are:--
+
+The large grey squirrel, which is common in the Eastern and Middle
+States, and which is about two feet in length, including the tail.
+The common red squirrel, or chicaree, smaller than the foregoing,
+and found more or less all through the United States. The black
+squirrel, which is about the size of the grey, and found in the
+north-eastern part of the United States, near the great lakes. In
+the Southern States there is a variety known as the fox squirrel,
+about the size of the red squirrel, and quite variable in color.
+The Middle States furnishes a species called the cat squirrel,
+rather smaller than the preceding. Its tail is very broad, and its
+color varies from very light to very dark grey.
+
+The ground squirrel, or chipmuck, with its prettily striped sides,
+is common to most of our readers, its general color being red and
+the stripes being black and white.
+
+Another burrowing species, known as the Oregon or downy squirrel,
+is found in the Territory from which it takes its name, and also
+northward in British America. In size it resembles the chipmuck,
+and its color is light red above, pure white beneath, and silver
+grey at the sides.
+
+The beautiful silky variety, known as the flying squirrel, with
+its grey chinchilla-like fur and loose skin, is found throughout
+the United States east of the Mississippi.
+
+Louisiana and Texas furnish the golden-bellied squirrel, which is
+about twenty inches in length, with tail golden yellow beneath,
+and golden grey above. The sooty squirrel is also found in this
+locality, being about the same size as the last mentioned, and
+black above and brownish red beneath.
+
+There are other varieties in California known as the woolly,
+soft-haired, and weasel squirrels; and in the Western States we
+find the large red-tailed squirrels, which are about the size of
+the large grey variety of the Eastern and Middle States.
+
+Squirrels, as a tribe, are much sought for as pets, and most of
+the species are easily tamed.
+
+Box traps of various kinds are used in taking them alive. The varieties
+on pages 103, 106 and 110 are especially adapted for this purpose,
+and should be set either in the trees or on the ground, and baited
+with an apple, a portion of an ear of corn, or of whatever the
+animal is particularly fond.
+
+When the animals exist in such numbers as to become a destructive
+[Page 214]
+nuisance to the farm, the small-sized steel trap, No. 0, arranged
+with bait hung above it, will work to good advantage. Twitch-ups
+are also successful, and we might also recommend the traps on pages
+107, 116 and 128 as worthy of trial when the animal is not desired
+to be captured alive.
+
+Squirrels may be skinned either by ripping up the belly, or in a
+whole piece, as described in regard to the fox.
+
+We pause before going further into the mysteries of trapping in
+connection with the animals which we are about to consider, as
+they are generally exempt from the wiles of the trapper's art,
+coming more properly in the field of the hunter or sportsman. The
+idea of trapping a deer, for instance, seems barbarous indeed;
+but are not all the ways of deceiving and killing these splendid
+animals equally so? Are not the various strategies and cunning
+devices of the sportsman, by which these noble creatures are decoyed
+and murdered, equally open to the same objection? As far as barbarity
+goes, there is to us but little choice between the two methods;
+and, generally speaking, we decry them both, and most especially
+do not wish to be understood as encouraging the trapping of these
+animals, except where all other means have failed, and in cases
+where their capture becomes in a measure a matter of necessity.
+This is often the case in the experience of professional trappers.
+The life of the trapper during the trapping season is spent almost
+entirely in the wilderness, often many miles from any human habitation;
+and at times he is solely dependent upon his gun or trap for his
+necessary food.
+
+Sometimes in a dry season, when the leaves and twigs crackle under
+foot, the rifle is as good as useless, for it becomes impossible to
+approach a deer within shooting range. And there are other times
+when ammunition is exhausted, and the trapper is thus forced to rely
+only on his traps for his supply of food. In such circumstances,
+the necessities of the trapper are paramount, and the trapping of
+deer, in such straits, as the most desirable food is rather to
+be recommended than condemned. The same remarks also in a measure
+apply to the moose and prong-horn antelope, as well as to several
+other animals hereinafter mentioned, as they are generally considered
+more in the light of the hunter's than the trapper's game.
+
+
+[Page 215]
+THE DEER.
+
+There are upwards of eight varieties of this animal which inhabit
+North America. The common red or Virginian deer is found throughout
+the United States. The stag or Wapiti deer is now chiefly confined
+to the country west of the Mississippi and northward to British
+America. The moose we shall speak of hereafter. The Rocky Mountain
+mule deer, and the long-tailed deer of the same locality, are two
+more species, and there are also the black-tailed deer and the
+reindeer, the latter of which is a native of British America. The
+scope of our volume will not of course admit of detailed directions
+for trapping each variety, but, as the habits of all the species are
+in a measure similar, our remarks will apply to them in general,
+and particularly to the red or Virginian deer, which is the most
+important to American trappers.
+
+The trap for taking deer should be large, strong, and covered with
+spikes. The Newhouse (No. 4) is particularly adapted, and is especially
+arranged for this purpose.
+
+When the path of the deer is discovered on the border of a stream
+or lake, the trap should be set beneath the surface of the water,
+near the tracks of the animal, and covered by a handful of dried
+grass thrown upon it. When thus set, it may either be left to run
+its chances, or success, further insured by the following precaution:
+In winter the principal food of the deer consists of the twigs,
+buds, and bark of various forest trees, and particularly those
+of the basswood and maple. In the season when the traps are set
+as above described, a most tempting bait is furnished by a large
+branch of either of those trees, freshly cut, and laid near the
+trap. The deer in feeding are thus almost sure to be captured.
+There are certain glands which are located on the inner side of the
+hind legs of the deer, and which emit a very strong and peculiar
+odor. The scent of these glands seems to attract the animal, and
+for this reason are cut out and used by trappers as a scent-bait.
+In the case already described, it is well to rub the glands on
+the twigs of the trees, thus serving as an additional attraction
+to the bait. There is still another method of trapping deer, which
+is commonly employed in the winter time. The trap is sunk in the
+snow at the foot of a tree, and the bait, consisting of an ear
+of corn or a few beards of other grain, is fastened to the tree,
+above the trap, three or more feet from the ground. The animal, in
+reaching for the bait, places its foot in the trap and is secured.
+
+[Page 216]
+When first caught, the deer becomes very wild and violent; so much
+so that if the trap were chained or retarded by a heavy clog, the
+chain, or even the trap itself, would most likely be broken. The
+weight of a trap of this size is generally a sufficient impediment,
+no clog, or at best a very light one, being required. The first
+frantic plunge being over, the entrapped creature immediately yields
+and lies down upon the ground, and is always to be found within
+a few rods of where the trap was first sprung upon him. During
+the winter the traps may also be set in the snow, using the same
+bait already described. It is a common method to fell a small tree
+for the purpose, setting the traps beneath the snow, around the
+top branches. The deer, in browsing in the tender twigs or buds,
+are almost certain to be captured. Dead-falls of different kinds
+are sometimes used in trapping the deer, with good success; using
+the scent bait already described, together with the other bait.
+The food of the deer during the summer consists of nuts, fruits,
+acorns, grass, berries, and water plants, and when in convenient
+neighborhood of cultivated lands, they do not hesitate to make
+a meal from the farmer's turnips, cabbages, and grain.
+
+As we have said, the winter food consists chiefly of the twigs of
+trees. When the snow is deep the deer form what are called "yards,"
+about such trees as they particularly select for their browsing.
+These yards are made simply by tramping down the snow, and large
+numbers of the deer are often thus found together. As the supply
+of food is consumed, the yard is enlarged, so as to enclose other
+trees for browsing, and where deep snows abound throughout the
+winter, these enclosures often become quite extensive in area.
+Panthers, wolves, and wolverines take especial advantage of these,
+and easily secure their victims. By wolves especially entire herds
+of deer are thus destroyed, and whole yards depopulated in a single
+night. Panthers secrete themselves in the trees above the boughs
+overhanging the "yards," and, with stealthy movements, approach and
+pounce upon their unsuspecting prey. The blood-thirsty wolverine
+secretes himself in the nooks and by-ways to spring upon its tawny
+victim unawares. These, together with man, form the principal foes
+of the deer, and we can truthfully assert that the _hunter_ is
+much more its enemy than the _trapper_.
+
+As we do not wish to encourage the wanton trapping of this noble
+creature, it would perhaps be well for us to devote also few words
+in describing the various modes of hunting the animal,
+[Page 217]
+adopted by the "professional sportsmen" throughout the land. The
+most common method is that called "still hunting," most generally
+pursued in winter. The hunter is shod with deer-skin or other soft
+sandals, and starts out with his rifle and ammunition. Finding the
+fresh track of the deer, he cautiously and noiselessly follows up
+the trail, keeping a sharp lookout ahead. A practised deer-hunter
+becomes very skillful and accurate, and the animal is nearly always
+tracked to discovery, when he is shot. The deer's sense of smell is
+extremely acute, and, when in shooting range, it is very necessary
+to approach them in the face of the wind, the direction of which
+may be easily determined by holding the finger in the mouth for a
+moment, afterward pointing it upward toward the sky. The cool side
+of the finger will indicate the direction from which the wind blows,
+and toward that direction the deer should always be approached, or
+as far toward that direction as possible. It will sometimes happen
+that the hunter will surprise the buck, doe, and fawn together. In
+order to secure the three, shoot the doe first. The buck and fawn
+will remain near the spot. The buck should next be shot, and then
+the fawn, the charge being aimed at the breast. Never approach a
+wounded deer without reloading the gun, as he is often more frightened
+than hurt, and is likely to start and run away, unless prevented
+by another shot. During the snow season, deer are always watchful
+of their back track. They are generally at rest during the day,
+starting out late in the afternoon on their usual ramblings, which
+they continue through the night. During the dark hours they love
+to resort to the water side in quest of aquatic plants, and are
+here often taken by hunters, many of which consider "night hunting"
+the favorite and most exciting sport. It is pursued in the following
+manner: The hunter requires a boat or canoe, page 261, a good rifle,
+and a lamp. The lamp, with a screen or reflector behind it, is
+placed at the bow of the boat. One hunter takes the oar, and, with
+noiseless paddle, propels or sculls the boat from the stem. The
+armed hunter crouches behind the light, with the muzzle of his
+rifle projecting beyond the screen sufficiently to easily show the
+forward sight on the tip of the barrel. A dark lantern is sometimes
+used as a light. The eyes of the deer shine very perceptibly at
+night, and his presence on the banks is thus easily detected. If
+he is noiselessly approached, he will remain transfixed by the
+effect of the light from the boat, and he may be neared even to a
+very close range, when he is easily despatched. Hundreds of deer
+[Page 218]
+are thus taken during the summer and autumn. Deer are also chased
+by dogs until they are forced to take refuge in the nearest rivers
+or lakes, when the hunter in his canoe overtakes and shoots them.
+Another method is frequently employed in the hunting of the deer.
+These animals are very fond of salt, and with it they are often
+decoyed to a spot where the hunter lies in wait for them. These
+places are called "deer licks," or salting places, and can be made
+as follows: Select a locality where deer are known to frequent, and
+place a handful of salt either on a smooth spot of ground or in
+the hollow of a log. A section of a log is sometimes slightly dug
+out at one end and the other inserted in the earth, the salt being
+placed in the hollow. The hunter secretes himself in a neighboring
+tree, sometimes erecting a bench or scaffolding for comfort, and,
+provided with gun and ammunition, he awaits the coming of the deer.
+Hunters say that a deer seldom looks higher than his head, and
+that a sportsman on one of these scaffoldings, even though he is
+clumsy in his movements, is seldom noticed by the animal.
+
+The salt lick is also utilized for night hunting. A head-lantern
+is generally required. This can be made in the following manner:
+Construct a cylinder of birch bark or paste-board or any like substance,
+ten inches in height, and of sufficient size to fit closely on
+the head. A circular partition should next be firmly inserted at
+about the middle of the cylinder, and the centre of the partition
+should be provided with a socket for the reception of a candle.
+On this end of the cylinder a piece should now be cut to admit
+of the passage of light from the candle on that side. Having this
+fire-hat at hand wait patiently for the game. When a significant
+noise is heard light the candle and place the cylinder on the head,
+with the open cut in front, thus directing the light toward the
+ground. As the deer approaches, his fiery eyes will easily be seen,
+and the light from the candle will shine sufficiently on the rifle
+to clearly reveal the sights and admit of a sure aim. There is
+still another method of night hunting by the salt lick. The rifle
+is aimed directly at the salted spot, and thus firmly fixed--this
+preparation being made in the daytime. When night approaches, the
+hunter finds a piece of phosphorescent wood or "fox fire," and places
+it on the ground, at a point which he has previously determined
+to be on a direct line of the aim of his gun. The "fox fire" is
+plainly seen from the tree, and as soon as it is darkened he knows
+that it is obscured by the deer, and he pulls the trigger and kills
+his game.
+
+Deer are hunted at all seasons of the year, _but ought not_ to
+[Page 219]
+be hunted during the summer. The sport legitimately begins in September,
+when the buck begins to harden his horns, and when his flesh is
+in its best condition for food. In October the deer is more shy,
+and during this month and after, the sport is at its height. The
+deer should be skinned from an incision down the belly, and the
+hide spread on a hoop stretcher, page 275.
+
+
+THE MOOSE.
+
+We have already given so much space to the hunting of the deer
+that we shall be obliged to cut short our remarks on the Moose,
+particularly as it is a representative of the same family. This
+animal is the largest of the Deer tribe, being seven or eight feet
+in height and often weighing over fifteen hundred pounds. It is
+supplied with immense flat spreading horns, sometimes expanding to
+the distance of six feet between the tips. It is found in Maine,
+Oregon and Washington Territories, and in the neighborhood of the
+great lakes, and inhabits the regions as far
+[Page 220]
+north as the Arctic Sea. Its color is yellowish brown. The fur is
+thicker in winter than summer, and on the neck of the animal the
+hair is very coarse and hangs in an immense tuft of over a foot
+in length. The flesh is most excellent food and is much esteemed
+by trappers. The habits of the moose are in most respects identical
+with the deer, already described, and like them they form "yards"
+during the winter season.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In the North the moose is hunted on snow-shoes by the natives,
+and in summer they are shot like the deer. They are often very
+dangerous and terrible creatures to hunt, and the utmost care and
+skill, as described in regard to the deer, is required on the part
+of the hunter in order to avoid detection through the exquisite
+sense of smell which the animal possesses. The moose is easily
+trapped. The Newhouse, No. 6, is especially adapted for the purpose,
+and it should be chained to a clog of stone or wood of over fifty
+pounds in weight. Set the trap in the "yard," or beneath the snow
+where the moose frequents, or in the summer, or fall seasons, as
+described for the deer, using the same methods in regard to baiting,
+etc.
+
+Skin after the manner of cattle, and stretch the hide on a
+hoop-spreader. Page 275.
+
+
+ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.
+
+These creatures are natives of the entire range of the Rocky Mountains,
+and are especially prized on account of the superior quality of
+their flesh as food. They are much larger and more powerful than
+the domestic sheep, and the ram is provided with enormous curved
+horns. The wool of the animal is intermixed with coarse grey hairs,
+and the general appearance of the fur is russet grey, with the
+exception of the rump and under parts, which are of a dirty white
+color. The animal is generally very wary and retiring, and inhabits
+the most secluded and inaccessible mountain regions and rocky cliffs.
+
+They are easily captured by the steel trap (No. 5) set in their
+haunts. The dead-fall is also used in some instances. Remove the
+skin as described for the deer.
+
+
+THE BUFFALO.
+
+The Buffaloes or Bison of the Western plains is too well known
+to need description. They travel in migrating herds of thousands,
+and are found from Texas to British America. Their food
+[Page 221]
+consists chiefly of grass, of which the "Buffalo grass" is their
+great delight. They graze and travel through the day and rest by
+night. They are more the game of the hunter than the trapper, although
+the largest side Newhouse would effectually secure one of the animals.
+The Buffalo is generally hunted on horseback, the usual method
+being that of stealing into the drove while grazing, always moving
+against the wind in order to avoid being scented. The flesh is
+palatable and by many much relished. The Buffalo skins of commerce
+are furnished by the cows. The bull skins are almost devoid of fur
+on the hinder parts, the hair being confined to the huge heavy
+mass on the hump and mane. Skin the animal as described for the
+Moose.
+
+
+THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE.
+
+This sole American representative of the Antelope tribe we believe
+is seldom trapped; but as it is a well-known animal on the Western
+plains, a short mention of it is required here. In general shape
+this creature bears considerable resemblance to the deer, the form of
+the horn being its chief peculiarity, each one of which is provided
+with a single prong, from which the animal takes its name, of Prong
+Horn. The color of the body is brownish-yellow, with the exception
+of the rump and belly which are almost white. The Antelopes generally
+travel in herds, and are much hunted by the Indians who surround
+them and destroy them with heavy clubs. Like the deer, their sense
+of smell is especially keen and the same caution is required in
+hunting them. In size they are about the same as the Virginian
+Deer. They are wonderfully graceful in all their movements, and
+are even more fleet of foot than the deer. These Antelopes inhabit
+the Western Prairies and wooded borders from New Mexico northward,
+and their flesh is much esteemed as an article of diet. They may
+be caught in their feeding places, as recommended for the deer,
+using the same sized trap.
+
+The dead fall is also efficacious in their capture, and they are
+also sometimes taken in large pit-falls covered over with light
+sticks and leaves, to resemble the natural surroundings. On this
+false covering, the bait, consisting of green corn or other vegetables,
+is strewn and a high wall of logs or stones is erected around it,
+in order that the animal will be obliged to _jump_ slightly in
+order to reach the bait.
+
+Remove the hide as recommended for the deer.
+
+
+[Page 222]
+SHOOTING AND POISONING.
+
+Until the introduction of the steel-trap, shooting was a common
+method of taking fur bearing animals, and even to the present day
+it is quite prevalent in some localities. Anyone who has had any
+experience with the fur trade must have learned that furs which
+are "shot," are much affected in value. Some furriers will not
+purchase such skins at any price; and they never meet with any
+but a very low offer. "Trapped furs" and "shot furs" are terms of
+considerable significance in the fur trade, and anyone who wishes
+to realize from a profitable sale of his furs, should use his gun
+as little as possible. A shot grazing through the fur of an animal
+cuts the hairs as if with a knife, and a single such furrow is
+often enough to spoil a skin. It is these oblique grazing shots
+which particularly damage the fur, and an animal killed with a
+_shot gun_ is seldom worth skinning for the value of its pelt. If
+firearms are used, the rifle is preferable. If the animal chances
+to be hit broadside or by a direct penetrating bullet, the two
+small holes thus made may not particularly effect the value of its
+skin, although even then the chances are rather slight.
+
+Trapped furs are of the greatest value.
+
+The use of poison is objectionable as a means of capture in animals
+especially desired for their fur. Strychnine is the substance generally
+employed, and unless its victim is skinned _immediately_ after
+death the pelt becomes considerably injured by the absorption of
+the poison. It has the effect of loosening the fur and the hair
+sheds easily.
+
+The poison is principally used in the capture of Wolves and animals
+considered in the light of vermin. For a wolf or fox, the poison
+is mixed with lard or tallow and spread on pieces of meat, or a
+small amount of the powder is inclosed in an incision in the bait.
+The amount sufficient for a single dose may be easily held on the
+point of a knife blade, and death ensues in a a very few moments
+after the bait is taken. For a Bear the dose should be a half
+thimbleful, and it should be deposited in the centre of a piece
+of honey comb, the cells being emptied of their honey for that
+purpose.
+
+Other animals may be taken by proportionate quantities of the poison,
+but for general purposes we discourage its use.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 223]
+[Illustration: THE CAMPAIGN.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 225]
+BOOK VII.
+
+CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS.
+
+[Illustration: I]t has been the author's object in the preparation
+of this book not simply to content the reader with a mere superficial
+knowledge of so-called "Amateur trapping," but to carry him further
+into the art professionally considered, and for this reason we
+present in the following chapter a full catalogue of the trapper's
+outfit, containing detailed descriptions of all the necessaries for
+a most thorough campaign, including boats and canoes, log cabins,
+shanties and tents, snow shoes and camp furniture of all kinds,
+together with numerous and valuable hints on trapper's food.
+
+
+PLAN OF CAMPAIGN.
+
+The first thing to be considered in reference to a campaign is
+the selection of a trapping ground, and it is always desirable
+to choose a locality where travel by water can be resorted to as
+much as possible. Otter, mink, beaver and muskrat are among the
+most desirable game for the trapper, and as these are all amphibious
+animals, a watered district is therefore the best on all accounts.
+Lakes, ponds, and streams, bordered by wild woods, form the best
+possible grounds for general trapping, and the mountain lakes of the
+Adirondacks and Alleghenies, and all similar regions are especially
+desirable on this account. Almost any wild country, intersected
+with streams, lakes, and rivers, is apt to abound with game, and
+some trappers confine their labors to the borders of a single lake,
+and adjoining forest. This plan is especially to be recommended to
+the amateur, as much of the travelling to and fro can be done by boat,
+[Page 226]
+the labor being thus much lightened. Having decided upon the seat
+of operations, the young trappers should immediately set to work
+at building their shanties and boats. The home shanty is of the
+greatest importance, and should be constructed first. Select some
+flat bit of land near the water and clear it of brush wood, or
+other rubbish and proceed to work as described on page 242. A good
+axe is the only tool required by an experienced trapper in the
+construction of such a shanty. Should the trapping lines be very
+extensive, additional _bark_ shanties, page 245, will require to
+be made at intervals along the line, for sleeping stations and
+shelters in case of storm. The professional trapper generally attends
+to the building of his shanties and boats before the trapping season
+commences, and thus has everything in readiness for his campaign.
+If in a birch bark country the Indian canoe, page 260, is the most
+desirable craft, on account of its lightness and portability. The
+dug-out, or bateau, described on page 259, will also do good service.
+
+The trapping season begins in October, and everything should be
+in readiness at this time, so that the trappers may devote all
+their time strictly to business.
+
+The route of the professional trapper often extends over fifty
+miles, and the number and weight of traps and provisions which
+these rough-and-ready individuals often carry as personal luggage
+is most astounding. Fifty or sixty pounds apiece is considered a
+_fair_ burden, and they deem no one a fit physical subject for a
+campaign who cannot at least manage thirty pounds with comparative
+ease. The number of the trapping party generally consists of from
+two to four. A few days prior to the opening of the trapping season,
+the party start out, laden with their burden of traps and provisions,
+and deposit them at intervals along the line, the provisions being
+mainly kept in the "home shanty." Several trips may be necessary to
+complete these preparations, unless the trapping ground is readily
+accessible by wagon or boat, in which case the transportation is
+much easier.
+
+The "home shanty" is generally built only when the trapping grounds
+are far in the wilderness, miles away from civilization. If the
+line extends from the outskirts of some town or village, such a
+hut may be dispensed with. It is used principally as a storehouse
+for furs, provisions, ammunition, tools, and other valuables, and
+also serves as a point of rendezvous, or a home, for the trappers,
+one of the number being generally left in charge to "keep shanty"
+while his companions are on their tramps in search of game. If
+desired, a boy may be taken
+[Page 227]
+along for this especial purpose. In every case, some such guardian
+is very necessary, and particularly in wild districts, abounding in
+wolves and bears, as these animals have an odd trick of breaking
+into unguarded shanties, and often make sad havoc with its stores.
+Steel traps are almost exclusively used by the professional trapper,
+and the supply for a single campaign will often exceed one hundred
+and fifty. Many of the traps described in the early part of this
+work are also used, and for the amateur who has not the ready cash
+to layout in steel traps, are decidedly to be recommended and will
+be found very efficient. From thirty to fifty traps would be a fair
+number for an ordinary amateur trapping season, and the probable
+cost of such a lot would be from $15 to $25. The sizes of the traps
+will depend upon the game sought, No. 2-1/2 being a good average.
+With this supply, relying somewhat on dead-falls, twitch-ups, and
+the various other devices described in our early pages, we can
+guarantee lively sport, of course, presuming that good judgment has
+been used in the selection of a trapping ground. In later articles,
+under the proper headings, we give full details concerning food
+and cooking utensils, shelter and bedding, as well as many other
+requisites for the trapper's comfort. To complete the list he should
+provide himself with a good sharp axe, and hatchet, and if the
+log canoe is in anticipation he will also require the other tools
+mentioned on page 259 an oilstone being carried in order to keep the
+various tools in good repair; an auger, saw, and some large nails are
+also to be desired, and a small parcel containing needles, thread,
+pins, scissors, etc., will be found indispensable. "Cleanliness is
+next to Godliness," and there are no more luxurious necessities
+in camp life than a piece of soap and a clean towel. For light it
+is advisable to carry a supply of candles, or a lantern with a can
+of oil. The latter is, of course, more bulky, and for a campaign
+wholly on foot is hardly to be recommended on this account.
+
+Each trapper should be provided with a stout jack-knife, pocket-compass,
+and a supply of matches, a number of these being always carried on
+the person to provide for the emergencies to which the hunter is
+always subject.
+
+One of the party should carry a double-barrelled shot-gun and another
+a rifle, or both may be combined in a single weapon. A revolver
+is also a desirable acquisition. Purified neats-foot oil should
+be used on the fire-arms, and in lieu of this, some trappers use
+the melted fat of the grouse for the same purpose. A good supply
+of fishing tackle is almost indispensable, and
+[Page 228]
+with these valuable equipments the young trapper may defy the wilderness
+with all its hazards. With his traps, gun and rod, together with his
+store of provisions, he may look forward to a larder well stocked
+and may calculate on an appetite which will do it justice.
+
+The list of portable provisions and cooking utensils best adapted
+for a campaign are given under their proper title, and will be
+found to cover all the wants of the most fastidious. The stove
+is the most cumbersome article, but trappers generally dispense
+with its use altogether, looking at it rather in the light of a
+luxury as well as a nuisance. The open camp fire will answer every
+purpose, both for cooking and for comfort in cold weather.
+
+For clothing it is desirable to carry at least two suits, in order
+to have a "change." They should be of woolen, and from the _hunter's_
+point of view, should be of a sombre shade, so as to be as inconspicuous
+as possible. The use of high-top boots is to be deprecated, as they
+are tiresome and unwieldy. Short boots, with thick, iron-pegged
+soles, are generally preferred by trappers, and in order to render
+them soft, pliable, and waterproof they may be soaked or smeared
+with a hot mixture, composed of one part rosin, two parts beeswax,
+and three parts tallow. Simple tallow, or even the fat of the deer,
+is sometimes used for the same purpose.
+
+Calculating on a successful campaign, a supply of board-stretchers,
+page 273, will be needed for the curing of the skins, and if our
+adventurous enthusiasts should extend their experience along into
+the winter, the toboggan and snow-shoes will come into good use
+for convenient winter travel.
+
+The trapping season properly commences in October and ends in April.
+The pelts of fur bearing animals are in their best condition during
+this time, and in the winter are in their prime. The various modes
+of setting and baiting traps for all our leading animals are clearly
+set forth in another part of this volume. And in the accompanying
+engravings will be found life like representations of each species.
+
+In a trapping campaign it is an excellent plan to select a central
+point for the home shanty, extending the trapping lines in several
+directions therefrom, following the borders of the lakes or streams
+for the otter, beaver, mink and muskrat; and setting a few lines
+inland for the capture of martens, racoons, foxes, etc.
+
+For an amateur campaign this a most excellent and convenient
+[Page 229]
+arrangement, the lines may extend all the way from one to five miles
+each, and connect at their edges, the whole ground plan resembling the
+form of a wheel, the shanty corresponding to the hub, and the trapping
+lines the spokes, the tire representing the circuit connecting the
+various lines. Where the latter extend over many miles it is well
+to construct bark shanties at the limits. Let each trapper take
+a certain "spoke," and follow it to its terminus, returning on the
+adjacent line. On his arrival at the shanty he should immediately
+set to work skinning the animals taken, and stretching their furs.
+Full directions for skinning the various game are given under their
+respective titles, and the curing of skins is treated in detail
+in another chapter of this work. We also present a table of the
+comparative values of the various American furs at the present
+date of publication. Of course these values are constantly varying,
+but the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values
+of common and scarce furs. Great care should always be used in
+removing the skins from the various animals, as the final value
+of the fur much depends upon this. They should not be removed from
+the stretchers until perfectly dry, and should then be laid in a
+cool, airy place. When near a village or settlement it is advisable
+to send "into town" every few days with a batch of furs for safe
+keeping, and particularly so when the skins are valuable, and in
+cases where the home shanty is left unguarded. The value of prime
+otter or mink pelt is a matter of no small importance, and a good
+trapping ground furnishes a rare field for light fingered prowlers
+who are well posted on the market price of raw furs, and who are
+constantly on the lookout for such prizes, either in the shape
+of the prepared skin, or on the back of the live animal. These
+"trap robbers," or poachers, are the pests of trappers, and many
+have learned from dear experience the advisability of placing their
+choice furs beyond the reach of the marauders.
+
+The hut in which they are stored is nearly always kept guarded,
+and, where this is impracticable, the skins are hid in hollow trees,
+or carried to some near settlement, as we have already mentioned.
+
+If the campaign proves successful and promises well for another
+season, it is customary to hide the traps beneath rocks, thus saving
+the labor of a second transportation. In order to keep the traps
+from rusting, it is well to cover them with oat or buckwheat chaff.
+The rock should be first rolled from its resting place, and a bed
+of the chaff made beneath it, in which the traps should be covered,
+the rock being afterwards replaced. In a few such
+[Page 230]
+places all the traps may be effectually stored away, and they will
+be found in prime order and ready for business on the following
+season.
+
+In the months of September and October trappers are much annoyed by
+gnats and mosquitoes, and, as a preventive against the attacks of
+these pests, we give on page 255 some valuable receipts, which have
+stood the test of time, and are still the most effective remedies.
+The "smudge," consisting of a smouldering pile of birch bark is
+also used where the insects infest the tents or shanties by night.
+The bark should be dry, and should not be allowed to blaze. The
+smudge is generally placed at the entrance of the tent, and the
+trapper may then take his choice between smoke or mosquitoes, both
+cannot exist together, and a tent infested with the blood-thirsty
+pests may be effectually cleared in a few minutes by the introduction
+of smoking brand for a few seconds. If the tent is now closely
+buttoned and the smudge kept burning directly outside, there will
+be no further trouble with the mosquitoes, and the odor of the
+smoke is, after all, but a slight annoyance and to some is even
+enjoyable after being once accustomed to it. When the home shanty
+is infested, it may be cleared in the same way, and by the aid of
+two or more smudges on the windward side may be kept free from
+the insects.
+
+
+FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS.
+
+The professional trapper on a campaign depends much upon his traps
+for his food, and often entirely contents himself with the subsistence
+thus gained. We _encourage_ and _believe_ in "roughing it" to a
+certain extent, but not to that limit to which it is often carried
+by many professional "followers of the trap" throughout our country.
+The course of diet to which these individuals subject themselves,
+would often do better credit to a half civilized barbarian than
+to an enlightened white man, and when it comes to starting on a
+campaign with no provision for food excepting a few traps, a gun, and
+a box of matches, and relying on a chance chip for a frying-pan, he
+would rather be "counted out." In ordinary cases we see no necessity
+for such deprivation, and, on the other hand, we decry the idea of
+transporting a whole kitchen and larder into the woods. There is
+a happy medium between the two extremes, whereby a light amount
+of luggage in the shape of cooking utensils and closely packed
+portable food, may render the wild life of the trapper very cozy
+and comfortable, and his meals a source of enjoyment, instead of a
+[Page 231]
+fulfilment of physical duty. What with the stock of traps, necessary
+tools, blankets, etc., the trapper's burden is bound to be pretty
+heavy, and it becomes necessary to select such food for transportation
+as shall combine the greatest amount of nutriment and the least possible
+weight, and to confine the utensils to those absolutely necessary
+for decent cooking.
+
+The trapper's culinary outfit may then be reduced to the following
+items, and in them he will find a sufficiency for very passable
+living.
+
+One of the most nutritious and desirable articles of food consists
+of fine sifted Indian meal; and it is the only substantial article
+of diet which many trappers will deign to carry at all.
+
+By some it is mixed with twice its quantity of wheat flour, and
+is thus used in the preparation of quite a variety of palatable
+dishes. One or two pounds of salt pork will also be found a valuable
+addition; boxes of pepper and salt and soda should also be carried.
+With these simple provisions alone, relying on his gun, traps and
+fishing tackle for animal food, the young trapper may rely on three
+enjoyable meals a day, if he is anything of a cook. Pork fritters
+are not to be despised, even at a hotel table; and with the above
+they can be made to suit the palate of the most fastidious.
+
+Indian meal is a valuable accessory with cooks generally, and to
+the trapper it often becomes his great "staff of life." If our
+young enthusiast desires to try his hand at roughing it to the
+fullest extent, compatible with common sense and the strength of an
+ordinary physical constitution, he may endeavor to content himself
+with the above portable rations; but with anything less it becomes
+too much like starvation to arouse our enthusiasm. For cooking
+utensils, a small frying-pan and a deep tin basin are indispensable;
+and a drinking cup is also to be desired. The kind known as the
+telescope cup, constructed in three parts, which close within each
+other, when not in use, possesses great advantages on account of
+its portability. With these one can get along pretty decently.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The pork fritters already mentioned form a favorite dish with trappers
+generally, and can be made in the following
+[Page 232]
+way; have at hand a thick batter of the Indian meal and flour;
+cut a few slices of the pork, and fry them in the frying-pan until
+the fat is tried out; cut a few more slices of the pork; dip them
+in the batter and drop them in the bubbling fat, seasoning with
+salt and pepper; cook until light brown and eat while hot. The
+question now arises, "What shall we eat them with?" If you are
+"roughing it," such luxuries as plates and knifes and forks are
+surely out of the question; and you must content yourself with
+a pair of chop sticks "a la Chinee," or make your jackknife do
+double purpose, using a flat chip or stone as a plate. A small
+tin plate may be added to the list of utensils if desired, but
+we are now confining ourselves to the "lowest limit" of absolute
+necessities. That wholesome dish known as "boiled mush," may come
+under the above bill of fare; and fried mush is an old stand-by
+to the rough and ready trapper. In the first case the Indian meal
+is slowly boiled for one hour, and then seasoned as eaten. It is
+then allowed to cool, and is cut in slices and fried in fat. Indian
+meal cakes are easily made by dropping a quantity of the hot mush
+in the frying-pan, having previously stirred in a small quantity
+of soda, and turning it as soon as the lower side is browned. A
+Johnny cake thus made is always appetizing, and with the addition
+of a little sugar, it becomes a positive luxury. Hoe cakes, so
+much relished by many, can be made by mixing up a quantity into
+a thick mass, adding a little soda. Bake in the fire on a chip or
+flat stone. The trapper's ground is generally in the neighborhood
+of lakes or streams, and fresh fish are always to be had. They
+may be cooked in a manner which would tempt a city epicure; and
+when it comes to the cooking of a fresh brook trout, neither a
+Prof. Blot nor a Delmonico can compete with the trapper's recipe.
+The trout is first emptied and cleaned through a hole at the neck,
+if the fish is large enough to admit of it; if not, it should be
+done by a slit up the belly. The interior should be carefully washed
+and seasoned with salt and pepper; and in the case of a large fish,
+it should be stuffed with Indian meal. Build a good fire and allow
+the wood to burn down to embers; lay the fish in the hot ashes
+and cover it with the burning coals and embers; leave it thus for
+about half an hour, more or less, in proportion to the size of the
+fish (this may be easily determined by experiment); when done,
+remove it carefully from the ashes, and peel off the skin. The
+clean pink flesh and delicious savor which now manifest themselves
+will create an appetite where none before existed. All the delicate
+[Page 233]
+flavor and sweet juices of the fish are thus retained, and the trout
+as food is then known in its perfection.
+
+By the ordinary method of cooking, the trout loses much of its
+original flavor by the evaporation of its juices; and although
+a delicious morsel in any event, it is never fully appreciated
+excepting after being roasted in the ashes, as above described.
+
+The other method consists in rolling the fish in the Indian meal
+and frying it in the frying-pan with a piece of the salt pork.
+Seasoning as desired.
+
+Partridges, ducks, quail, and other wild fowl are most delicious
+when cooked in the ashes as described for the trout. The bird should
+be drawn in the ordinary manner, and the inside washed perfectly
+clean. It should then be embedded in the hot coals and ashes, the
+feathers having been previously saturated with water. When done,
+the skin and feathers will easily peel off, and the flesh will
+be found to be wonderfully sweet, tender, and juicy. A stuffing
+of pounded crackers and minced meat of any kind, with plenty of
+seasoning, greatly improves the result, or the Indian meal may be
+used if desired. A fowl thus roasted is a rare delicacy. A partridge,
+squirrel, pigeon, woodcock, or any other game can be broiled as
+well in the woods as at home, using a couple of green-branched
+twigs for a spider or "toaster," and turning occasionally. For
+this purpose the bird should be plucked of its feathers, cleanly
+drawn and washed, and spread out by cutting down the back. Venison,
+moose, or bear meat, can be deliciously roasted in joints of several
+pounds before a good fire, using a green birch branch as a spit,
+and resting it on two logs, situated on opposite sides of the fire.
+The meat can thus be occasionally turned and propped in place by
+a small stick, sprinkling occasionally with salt and pepper. The
+above manner of making the fire is that adopted by most woodsmen.
+Two large green logs, of several feet in length, being first laid
+down at about three feet distant, between these the fire is built,
+and when a kettle is used a heavy pole is so arranged as to project
+and hold it over the fire. A cutlet of venison fried in the pan
+is delicious, and a "Johnny cake" cooked in the fat of this meat
+is a decided dainty.
+
+With the above hints for a "rough and ready" campaign, we think
+the young trapper ought to be able to get along quite comfortably.
+
+We will now pass on to the consideration of what the average
+[Page 234]
+professional trapper would call "luxuries." The stock of these
+depends much upon the location of the trapping ground. If accessible
+by wagon or boat, or both, they may be carried in unlimited quantities,
+but when they are to be borne on the back of the trapper through
+a pathless wilderness of miles, the supply will, of course, have
+to be cut short. When two or three start out together it becomes
+much easier, one carrying the traps and tools; another the guns,
+cooking utensils, etc.; the third confining his luggage to the food.
+One of the most necessary requisites for a journey on foot consists
+in a knapsack or large square basket, which can be easily strapped
+to the back of the shoulders, thus leaving the hands free. Matches
+are absolutely indispensable, and a good supply should be carried.
+They should always be enclosed in a large-mouthed bottle with a
+close fitting cork, to prevent their being damaged by moisture. For
+further safety in this regard the matches may be rendered perfectly
+water-proof by dipping their ends in thin mastic or shellac varnish.
+If not at hand, this varnish can be easily made by dissolving a
+small quantity of either sort of gum in three or four times its
+bulk of alcohol. It is well to dip the whole stick in the solution,
+thereby rendering the entire match impervious to moisture. Lucifer
+matches are the best, and, when thus prepared, they may lay in
+water for hours without any injury. It is a fearful thing to find
+oneself in the wilderness, cold and hungry, and without the means
+of lighting a fire, and to prepare for such an emergency it is
+always advisable to be provided with a pocket sun glass. So long as
+the sun shines a fire is thus always to be had, either by igniting
+a small quantity of powder (which the trapper is always supposed
+to carry) or using powdered "touch wood" or "punk tinder" in its
+place. Fine scrapings from dry wood will easily ignite by the sun
+glass, and by fanning the fire and adding additional fuel it will
+soon burst into flame. In cloudy weather, and in the absence of
+matches, a fire may easily be kindled by sprinkling a small quantity
+of powder on a large flat stone, setting a percussion cap in its
+midst, and covering the whole with dry leaves. A smart strike on
+the cap with a hammer will have the desired result, and by heaping
+additional fuel on the blazing leaves the fire soon reaches large
+proportions. If the young trapper should ever be so unfortunate
+as to find himself in the wild woods, chilled and hungry, minus
+matches, powder, caps, and sun glass, he may as a last resort try
+the following: Scrape some lint or cotton from some portion of
+the garment, or some tinder from a dry stick, and lay it on the
+[Page 235]
+surface of some rough rock, white quartz rock if it can be found.
+Next procure a fragment of the same stone, or a piece of steel from
+some one of the traps, and strike its edge sharply, and with a
+skipping stroke into the further side of the tinder, the direction
+being such as will send the sparks thus produced into the inflammable
+material. Continue this operation until the tinder ignites. By now
+gently fanning the smoking mass it may easily be coaxed into flame.
+At least so our Adirondack guide told us last summer. The author has
+never had occasion to test the merits of the plan for himself, and
+has no special desire of being so placed, as that his life will hang
+upon its success. He presents it therefore as a mere suggestion
+without endorsing its practicability, and would rather prefer matches
+in the long run. The open fire generally serves both for purposes
+of warmth and cooking, but by many, a camp stove is considered a
+great improvement. Stoves of this character, and for this especial
+purpose, are in the market. They are small and portable, with pipe
+and furniture, all of which pack away closely into the interior.
+A fire is easily started in one of these stoves, and, by closing
+the damper, a slow fire may be kept up through the night. The stove
+is generally set up at the entrance of the tent, the pipe passing
+through the top, in a hole near the ridge pole. The furniture consists
+of three pots or kettles, which pack easily into each other, and
+when in the stove still leave ample room for a considerable amount
+of provisions.
+
+The kettles are made of block-tin, and frying-pans also, as these
+are much more light and portable than those made of iron. The lid
+may be used as a plate, and for this purpose the handle consists
+of an iron ring, which will fold flat against the surface when
+inverted. Knives, forks, and spoons are easily stowed away in the
+stove or knapsack, and a coffee-pot should always be carried. There
+is a knife known as the combination camp-knife, which is much used
+by hunters and trappers, and contains a spoon, fork, knife, and
+various other useful appendages, in a most compact form. It costs
+from one to two dollars.
+
+For provisions, potatoes will be found excellent, both on account
+of their portability and the variety of ways in which they may be
+served. They are healthy and nutritions, and always palatable.
+Beans are also very desirable for the same reasons. Wheat flour will
+form a valuable addition to the trapper's larder, and particularly
+so, if the "self-raising" kind can be had. This
+[Page 236]
+flour contains all the required ingredients for light bread and
+biscuit, and is sold by grocers generally, in packages of various
+sizes, with accompanying recipes. We strongly recommend it where
+a stove is employed; and to anyone who is fond of biscuit, bread,
+or pancakes, it will be appreciated. Butter, lard, sugar, salt,
+pepper and mustard are valuable accessories, and curry-powder,
+olive oil, and vinegar will often be found useful. Olive oil is
+often used by camping parties with the curry powder, and also as
+a substitute for lard in the frying-pan. Pork, Indian meal and
+crackers, wheaten grits, rice, and oat-meal are desirable, and
+coffee and tea are great luxuries. For soups, Liebig's extract of
+beef is a most valuable article, and with the addition of other
+ingredients, vegetables or meat, the result is a most delicious and
+nutritious dish. This extract is obtainable at almost any grocer's,
+and full directions and recipes accompany each jar. Canned vegetables
+are much to be desired on account of their portability, and are
+never so delicious as when cooked over a camp fire. Lemonade is
+always a luscious beverage, but never so much so as to a thirsty
+trapper. A few lemons are easily carried and will repay the trouble.
+
+All provisions, such as meal, flour, sugar, salt, crackers, and the
+like, should be enclosed in water-proof canvas bags, and labelled.
+The bags may be rendered water-proof either by painting, (in which
+case no _lead_ or arsenic paints should be used) or by dipping in
+the preparation described on page 247. If these are not used, a
+rubber blanket, page 250, may be substituted, the eatables being
+carefully wrapped therein, when not in use. The butter and lard
+should be put up in air-tight jars, and should be kept in a cool
+place, either on the ground in a shady spot, or in some cool spring.
+
+For a campaign on foot, the knapsack, or shoulder-basket, already
+alluded to on page 234, is an indispensable article. It should
+be quite large and roomy, say fifteen inches in depth and ten by
+twelve inches in its other dimensions. The material should be canvas,
+rubber cloth, or wicker, and, in any case, the opening at the top
+should have a water-proof covering extending well over the sides.
+The straps may consist of old suspender bands, fastened crosswise
+on the broad side of the bag. The capacity of such a knapsack is
+surprising, and the actual weight of luggage seems half reduced
+when thus carried on the shoulders. When three or four trappers
+start together, which is the usual custom, and each is provided
+with such a shoulder basket, the luggage can be thus divided, and
+the load for each individual much lightened.
+
+[Page 237]
+Venison is the trapper's favorite food, and in mild weather it
+sometimes happens that the overplus of meat becomes tainted before
+it can be eaten. To overcome this difficulty the following process
+is resorted to, for the preservation of the meat, and the result
+is the well-known and high-priced "jerked venison" of our markets.
+The flesh is first cut into small, thin strips, all the meat being
+picked off from the bones. The pieces are then placed on the inside
+of the hide of the animal and thoroughly mixed with salt, a pint
+and a half being generally sufficient. The salt being well worked
+in, the fragments should be carefully wrapped in the hide, and
+suffered to remain in this condition for two or three hours. The
+meat is then ready to be dried,--"jerked."
+
+Four forked poles should be first driven into the ground, about
+six feet apart, in the form of a square, the forks being four feet
+above ground. Lay two poles of green wood across the forks on the
+two opposite sides of the square, and cover the space between them
+by other poles laid across them, an inch or two inches apart. On
+to this mammoth gridiron the strips of flesh should now be spread,
+and a steady fire of birch or other clean, fresh wood should be
+kept steadily burning beneath for about twenty-four hours. At the
+end of this time the meat will have reduced much in size and weight.
+The salt will have been thoroughly _dried in_, and the flesh so
+prepared may be kept for almost any length of time. In its present
+condition it is excellent eating, and it is always at hand for
+frying, and may be cooked in a variety of ways. Moose and bear meat
+may be dried in a similar manner, using a proportionate amount of
+salt. Fish may also be prepared in the same way, for which purpose
+they should be scaled as usual and afterward spread open by cutting
+down the back, the bone being removed. We cordially recommend this
+method of preparing both flesh and fish, and no trapper's "recipe
+book" is complete without it.
+
+In localities where wolves abound, the nocturnal invasions of these
+creatures often render the keeping of fresh meat a very difficult
+task, and in this connection it may be well to give directions
+for the preservation of game desired to be used either as fresh
+meat or for purposes of drying.
+
+The spring-pole is most commonly and successfully used.
+
+Select some stout sapling, bend it down, and cut off a limb several
+feet from the ground. Hang the meat in the crotch thus formed, and
+allow the tree to swing back. By dividing the meat into several
+parts it may thus all be protected. When
+[Page 238]
+a moose or deer is killed at such a time or place, or under such
+circumstances as render its immediate dressing impossible, its
+carcass may be defended against mutilation by another means. Wolves
+are naturally sly and sagacious, and have a wholesome fear of a
+trap. Any unnatural arrangement of logs and stones immediately
+excites their suspicion, and the trapper takes advantage of this
+wary peculiarity to good purpose. Laying his dead game near some
+fallen tree or old log he strews a few branches over the carcass,
+or perhaps rests a log over it. Sometimes he hangs the entrails of
+the animal over the body, on a forked stick, anyone of which devices
+is said to have the desired result. The wolverine is another pest to
+the trapper, and not being so sly as the wolf, never hesitates to
+pounce upon any flesh within its reach. The former method, therefore,
+is always the safest plan for absolute protection against all animals.
+
+The moose and deer are the favorite food of trappers in the country
+where these animals abound, and the trappers of the Far West find
+in the flesh of the Moufflon, or Rocky Mountain sheep, a delicacy
+which they consider superior to the finest venison. The prong-horn
+antelope of the Western plains is another favorite food-animal
+with hunters, and the various "small game," such as squirrels,
+rabbits, woodchucks, etc., are by no means to be despised. The
+author once knew a trapper who was loud in his praises of "skunk
+meat" for food, and many hunters can testify to its agreeable flavor
+when properly dressed and cooked. It is hard, to be sure, to getup
+much enthusiasm over a skunk, dead or alive, but where other food
+is not to be had we would discourage the young trapper from being
+too fastidious.
+
+The buffalo, or bison, is the great resource of the trappers of the
+West. The tongue, tenderloin and brisket are generally preferred,
+but all the meat is eatable. The flesh of the cow is best. It much
+resembles beef, but has a more gamey flavor. In winged game there
+is no food superior to the flesh of the grouse, and the great number
+of the species and wide range of territory which they inhabit render
+them the universal food game of trappers throughout the world. The
+ruffed grouse or partridge, pinnated grouse or prairie hen, spruce
+or Canada grouse, and the cock-of-the-plains or sage cock, are
+familiar American examples of the family, and their near relatives,
+the ptarmigans, afford a valuable source of food to the trappers
+and hunters, as well as general inhabitants of our northern cold
+countries. Here they are known as "snow grouse," and there are
+[Page 239]
+several species. The willow ptarmigan is the most common, and in Rome
+localities exists in almost incredible numbers. Flocks numbering
+several thousand have been frequently seen by travellers in the
+Hudson's Bay territory; and the surface of the snow in a desirable
+feeding ground, is often completely covered by the birds, in quest
+of the willow tops, which form their chief food during the winter
+season. The Indians and natives secure the birds in large numbers,
+by the trap described on page 75, and Hearne, the traveller and
+explorer of the Hudson's Bay region, asserts that he has known over
+three hundred to be thus caught in a single morning, by three persons.
+
+Of water fowl, ducks and geese are especially to be recommended.
+The former are hunted with decoys and boats, and are sometimes
+trapped, as described on pages 94. The species are distinguished
+as sea ducks and river or inland ducks. The latter are considered
+the most desirable for food, being more delicate and less gamey in
+flavor than the salt-water, or fish-eating varieties. The mallard,
+teal, muscovy, widgeon, and wood-chuck are familiar species of the
+inland birds, and the merganser and canvass-back are the two most
+esteemed salt-water varieties. Wild geese are common throughout North
+America, and may be seen either in the early spring or late fall
+migrating in immense numbers. They form a staple article of food
+in many parts of British America, and great numbers are salted down
+for winter supply. They are trapped in large numbers, as described
+on page 75, and are hunted with tame geese as decoys, the hunter
+being secreted behind a screen or covert, and attracting the game
+by imitating their cries.
+
+Fish form an agreeable change to the trapper's diet, and may be
+caught by the hook and line, or by spearing. The latter method
+requires considerable practice and skill, but is very successful.
+The Indians of the North are great experts in the use of the spear,
+and the number of salmon taken by them annually is enormous. The
+spear generally consists of five or six steel prongs an inch apart
+and barbed at the ends. It is mounted on a heavy handle, and when it
+strikes its victim its grip is sure death. The spearing is generally
+performed either at the spawning beds or at the falls.
+
+Salmon trout are generally speared in the night time by boat, the
+spawning ground, generally a gravel bank near the shore, being
+the seat of operations. A fire of pitch pine and birch bark is
+ignited on an elevated "jack" in the bow of the boat, the "jack"
+consisting of an ox-muzzle, or other concave wire contrivance
+[Page 240]
+which will hold the inflammable materials. This is secured to a
+post or crotched stick, as a prop, and the spearman stands near
+the burning mass with his spear in readiness. As his companion in
+the stern of the boat paddles, he keenly watches for his victim,
+and, seeing his opportunity, makes his lunge and lands his prize.
+To become a successful spearman requires much practice and no small
+degree of skill. To retain one's balance, acquire quickness of stroke,
+and withal to regulate the aim so as to allow for the refraction of
+the light in the water, all tend to invest the sport with a degree
+of skill which only experience can master.
+
+Fishing through the ice in winter is a rare sport, and large numbers
+of brook and lake trout are often taken at this season by cutting
+holes through the ice and fishing with hook and line. The baits
+commonly used consist of cow's udder or hog's liver, these being
+especially preferred on account of their toughness. Angle worms
+are also excellent, and any kind of raw meat may be used if other
+bait is not to be had.
+
+It is asserted by some sportsmen that bait scented with assafoetida
+is much more attractive to the fish, and will insure a capture
+which would otherwise be impossible. Sweet cicily and anise are
+also used for the same purpose. When the trout bite lively, fishing
+through the ice is a most exciting sport, and by the aid of "tip-ups"
+a single person may command a great number of lines. The winter
+resort of the brook trout is in water two or three feet deep, over
+sandy beds. The lake trout frequent deeper water.
+
+The holes are made in the ice at intervals of one or two rods, and
+a line set in each hole.
+
+The "tip-up" consists of a narrow strip of lath or shingle, with
+a hole bored through it near the large end. At this end the line
+is attached, and the hook thrown in the water. A branch is now
+inserted through the aperture, and its ends are rested across the
+opening in the ice. No sooner does the fish bite than the long
+end tips straight in the air, and thus betrays its captive. Ten
+or fifteen of these contrivances will often keep one pretty busy,
+and do good service. By some an ordinary cut fish pole, arranged on
+a crotch, is used instead of the tip-ups just described. Pickerel
+fishing through the ice is a favorite winter sport in many localities.
+The line should be about thirty feet in length, and the bait should
+consist of a small, live fish, hooked through the back. A small cork
+float should be attached to the line at such a distance as will keep
+[Page 241]
+the bait above the bottom, and the superfluous line should be laid
+in a loose coil near the hole, the end being attached to a small
+switch or bush, stuck up in the ice near by. The pickerel, on taking
+the bait, should be allowed to play out the whole line before being
+pulled in, as the fish requires this time to fully swallow his
+prey, after which the hook is sure to hold him firmly. Twenty or
+thirty lines may thus be attended at once, the bush or twig acting
+the part of a tip-up, or sentinel.
+
+Pickerel spearing is another successful mode of capture during
+the winter months. A large hole is made in the ice, in about two
+feet of water, and covered by a spacious box or board hut, six or
+seven feet square, and provided with a door. The spearman, concealed
+within, lowers his bait, consisting of an artificial fish with
+silver fins, made especially for the purpose. This he continually
+twirls in the water, and as the pickerel approaches the bait, he
+gradually raises it, until the fish is decoyed nearly to the surface
+of the water, when a quick stroke of the spear secures his victim,
+and the line is again lowered. This is capital sport, and is very
+successful.
+
+There is a very curious device for fishing by night commonly employed
+by some anglers, and sometimes known as the "lantern, or fish trap."
+Many kinds of fish are attracted by a light, but to use a light
+as a bait, submerged beneath the water, certainly seems odd. It
+may be done, however, in the following way: The "fish lantern"
+used for this purpose consists of a bottle containing a solution
+of phosphorus in sweet oil. Procure a piece of the stick phosphorus
+the size of a small cherry, and submerging in a saucer of water,
+proceed to cut it into small pieces. Have in readiness a three-ounce
+white glass bottle half filled with sweet oil. Drop the pieces of
+phosphorus into the oil and cork the bottle tightly. In the space
+of a few hours the phosphorus will have been completely dissolved,
+and the contents of the bottle will present a thick, luminous fluid,
+which in a dark room, will afford considerable light. This is the
+fish lantern. To use it, the cork is firmly inserted and the bottle,
+with fish line attached, is lowered through the hole in the ice.
+The water becomes luminous for several feet around, and the unusual
+brightness attracts the fish in large numbers. They are plainly,
+discernible, and are readily dispatched with the spear, or captured
+by a circular net, sunk on the bottom, beneath the luminous bait.
+This is certainly an odd way of catching fish, but it is often
+a very efficacious method.
+
+It has not been our intention to enter very extensively into
+[Page 242]
+the subject of fishing, but only to give such hints as will be
+found especially useful and practical to the trapper in relation
+to his food. The above methods, together with those of trolling
+and fly-fishing, are those most commonly employed by trappers and
+hunters generally, and we commend them to the amateur.
+
+We give, on page 120, a unique device for the capture of fish, which
+might also be found useful.
+
+With the above general remarks on the campaign, together with what
+follows in the detailed articles on the subject, we think that the
+ground will have been completely covered. Every possible requirement
+has been anticipated, and every ordinary emergency foreseen and
+provided against.
+
+
+THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.
+
+The life of the professional trapper is a life of hardship and
+severe exposure, and a man not only requires considerable courage,
+but also great bodily vigor, in order to combat successfully the
+dangers of such a wild, adventuresome existence.
+
+The cold and the storm not only imperil his life, but he is often
+exposed to the attacks of wild beasts. A shelter, therefore, in one
+form or another, becomes a necessity while it is always a decided
+comfort, in comparison to a campaign without it.
+
+The reader will find below descriptions of the various shelters
+alluded to in other parts of this work, and used by trappers throughout
+the land.
+
+The most substantial of these is the log shanty, commonly known among
+trappers as the "home shanty," on account of its being constructed
+as the only permanent shelter on the trapping line.
+
+It is used as a "home," a place of rendezvous, and a storehouse
+for provisions, furs, and other necessities and valuables. Other
+temporary shelters, known as bark shanties, are also constructed
+along the trapping lines at intervals of five or ten miles, as
+resting places. These we describe under the proper title.
+
+Although, to the amateur trapper, the log shanty is not likely
+to become a necessity, we will nevertheless describe its mode of
+construction, in order to satisfy our more earnest and adventurous
+readers, who aspire to a full taste of wild life.
+
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of such a shanty.
+
+[Page 243]
+[Illustration: THE HOME SHANTY.]
+
+[Page 244]
+It may be constructed of any size, but one of about twelve by ten
+feet will be found large enough for ordinary purposes. Select straight
+logs, about eight inches in diameter. The whole number required
+will be thirty-six. Of these one-half should be twelve feet in
+length and the other ten. These should now be built up in the square
+form, on a level piece of ground, laying the ends of the logs over
+each other, and securing them by notches at the corners, so deep as
+to allow the edges of the logs to meet. Lay two short logs first,
+and continue building until all the thirty-six logs are used, and
+we will now have four symmetrical sides about six feet in height.
+The place for the door should now be selected. The uppermost log
+should form its upper outline, and the two sides should be cleanly
+and straightly cut with a crosscut saw. The window openings, one or
+more, may next be cut, commencing beneath the second log from the
+top, and taking in three beneath it. Replace the logs above, and
+on the ends of those thus cut, both in windows and doors, proceed
+to spike a heavy plank, driving two nails into each log, about
+five inches apart, one above the other. This will hold them firmly
+in place, and offer a close-fitting jam for the door, and neat
+receptacle for the window sashes, which latter may now be put in
+after the ordinary manner.
+
+The gable ends should next be built upon the smaller sides of the
+hut. Commence by laying a long log (notched as before) across the
+top of the frame work, and about two feet inside the edge. This
+should of course be done on both sides of the hut, after which
+they should be overlapped at the corners with logs eight feet in
+length. Next lay two more long logs, parallel with the first two,
+and about a foot inside them, notching as before. The ends of these
+should be spanned with beams eight feet in length. Two more long
+logs are next in order--let them be one foot inside the last two.
+Overlap these with beams five feet and a half in length, and in
+the exact centre of these last pieces chop notches for a heavy
+log for a ridge pole. The gable outline, direct from the ridge
+pole to the eaves, should now be cut off by the aid of a sharp
+axe. This may be done either while the pieces are in position, or
+the line may be marked with a piece of chalk, and the logs taken
+down in order to accomplish it. The roof is now required. This
+should consist either of strips of bark or the rounded sides of
+logs split off and hollowed into troughs. The latter method is
+preferable, on account of its greater strength and durability,
+but the bark will answer the purpose very well, and is much more
+easily obtained. The manner of adjusting the roof pieces is clearly
+[Page 245]
+shown in our illustration. The first row is laid on with the hollow
+side up, securing them at top and bottom by nails driven through each
+into the ridge pole and eaves-log, care being taken that one of these
+pieces projects well over the gable, on both ends of the hut. These
+pieces are now overlapped by the second row, and with the addition
+of the large piece which covers them all at the ridge pole, the
+roof is complete, and will stand a heavy rain with little or no
+leaking. The crevices should now be stopped with moss, dried grass
+or clay, after which the log cabin is complete. When the bark roof
+is made, additional poles may be inserted beneath as props. They
+should be three or four inches in diameter, and run parallel with
+the ridge pole, at intervals on the slope, notches being cut to
+secure them.
+
+Our engraving represents a chimney, which may be constructed if
+desired, but the necessity of this may be done away with by using
+a small camp stove, and making a small opening in the gable end
+of the hut for the passage of the pipe. If it stove should not
+be at hand, and our amateur should decide to "rough it" to the
+full extent, he may build his fire-place and chimney as follows:
+It will be necessary to cut away an opening in the logs at the
+gable end, as was done for the door and windows. This should be
+about three feet square, and the fire place should be built of
+stone and clay, or cement, to fill the opening, and project inside
+the hut.
+
+The chimney may then be built up outside in the same manner,
+sufficiently high to overtop the gables.
+
+Inside the hut overhead will be found abundant room for the hanging
+of the skins, and any number of cross-poles may be rested across
+the beams. There are facilities for the swinging of a hammock,
+if desired, and, in fact, a hut constructed like the foregoing
+is a perfect one in its way. There are other methods of building
+a log cabin, but we will content ourselves with what we consider
+the _best_ way of all, and pass on to the
+
+
+BARK SHANTY.
+
+This is made by first driving into the ground two forked poles
+seven or eight feet in height and stout enough to sustain a ridge
+pole of moderate size. Against this ridge pole other poles should
+be rested at intervals of two feet, and sloping to the angle of
+forty-five degrees. The frame-work thus formed should now be covered
+with bark, commencing at the ground and allowing the edge of each
+piece to overlap the one beneath
+[Page 246]
+after the manner of shingles, in order to shed the rain in case
+of storm. Spruce or birch bark are excellent for this purpose,
+and the pieces may be secured with nails, and kept flat by the
+weight of another series of poles rested against them. The sides
+of the shelter should be treated similarly, the front being usually
+left open to face the fire, which the trapper generally builds a
+few feet distant. In constructing a bark shanty, it is well to
+select some spot protected from the wind, close to the foot of a
+mountain or in the midst of trees, always letting the open side
+face the direction most sheltered.
+
+If desired, the front can be enclosed after the manner of the sides
+and top, but this is not required where the fire is used.
+
+This style of shelter is represented in our page title to this section,
+and certainly looks very comfortable.
+
+
+TENTS.
+
+Shanties like the foregoing are in general use among the old veteran
+trappers of all countries, and even to the amateur there is a charm
+in a shelter constructed from the rude materials of the woods which
+the portable tents do not possess.
+
+Tents, however, are much used both by professionals and amateurs,
+and are indeed valuable acquisitions to the trapper's outfit, and
+where time is valuable, do away with the labor which the construction
+of a hut or shanty involves.
+
+Tents are of several kinds. Those most commonly used by the trapper
+are the house-tent, fly-tent, and half-tent, or shelter-tent.
+
+The first of these is made for prop-poles and a ridge pole, closed
+on one end and buttoning up at the other. The sides are perpendicular
+for two or three feet, before the slope commences, and the stay-ropes
+are fastened to the eaves.
+
+The fly-tent is generally a large, square piece of canvas, with
+ropes extending from opposite sides. This is thrown over a ridge
+pole, or over a rope extending between two trees, and the sides
+are held to the proper slope by tightening and pegging the side
+ropes to the ground. Fly-tents are also made with ends, which can
+be lowered, and the whole tent may be pegged close to the ground.
+
+The shelter-tent, when erected, resembles, in general shape, the
+bark shanty already described. It consists of a strip of canvas,
+having each end cut off to a point. The tent is pitched over three
+slanting poles, and the ends are brought down and securely pegged.
+This is clearly shown in our illustration.
+
+[Page 247]
+[Illustration]
+
+We do not propose giving any extended directions for making tents,
+as they are a staple article of trade, and, as a general thing, can
+be bought for a figure which would render their domestic manufacture
+of little saving or profit. The shelter-tent, however, is so useful
+an affair, and withal so very simple made, that we will give a few
+directions in regard to its manufacture. It should be made from
+stout _cotton drilling_, or very heavy sheeting. Let the piece
+be about thirteen feet in length by six in width. Each end of the
+piece should now be cut to a rectangular point, commencing to cut
+at a distance of three feet from each corner. In order to render
+the cloth waterproof, it should now be dipped in a pail containing
+a solution of equal parts of alum and sugar of lead, a couple of
+handfuls of each, in tepid water. It should be allowed to remain
+several minutes in soak, being dipped and turned occasionally,
+after which it should be spread out to dry. This treatment not
+only renders the cloth impervious to rain, but the alum tends to
+make it fire-proof also. A spark from the fire falling upon a tent
+thus prepared, will often rest upon the cloth until it goes out,
+without doing the slightest damage.
+
+[Page 248]
+The manner of pitching the tent has already been alluded to, and
+is clear from our illustration. The poles should be three or four
+in number, and seven feet in length, inserted in the ground at the
+angle denoted. The two outside poles should be seven feet apart,
+and the intermediate ones equally disposed. The tent piece should
+now be laid over the poles, and the ends brought down and pegged
+to the ground at the apex, and rear corners of each side through
+loops, which should have been previously attached to these parts.
+A tent, thus arranged, affords a safe shelter from the wind or
+a moderate storm, and with a bright fire in front, is warm and
+comfortable.
+
+
+BEDS AND BEDDING.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Many a trapper does away with these commodities, merely rolling
+himself in a blanket and using his arm for a pillow; but we do
+not propose to encourage or recommend any such half-way comfort as
+this, when by a very little labor a portable bed can be prepared
+on which the weary hunter can rest as serenely as if slumbering
+on the congenial softness of a hair mattress. A bed of this kind
+we illustrate, and it can be made in the following manner: Procure
+a large piece of canvas, sacking or other strong, coarse material
+six and a half feet square. If a single piece of this size cannot
+be found, several parts may he sewed together to the required
+dimensions. After which two opposite sides should be firmly stitched
+[Page 249]
+together, thus forming a bottomless bag, if we may be allowed to use
+the expression. Two stout poles seven or eight feet in length and as
+large as the wrist should now be cut. Insert them through the bag,
+allowing the ends to project equally on each side. These ends should
+now be rested on two logs, one placed across each end of the canvas.
+In order to hold the poles in place notches should be cut in the logs
+at such distances as will draw the bag to its full width. The interior
+of the canvas should now be filled with dried grass, leaves, moss
+or spruce boughs, after which the bedstead and bed is complete.
+
+The yielding elasticity of the poles and the softness of the warm
+filling in the bag, give the effect of a spring and straw mattress
+combined, lifting the sleeper above the cold, damp ground, and by
+the addition of a blanket above, insuring warmth on all sides. If
+the logs are not at hand four forked stakes may be used, driving
+them firmly into the ground at such distances as will draw the
+bag to its full width, when the poles are rested upon them. If
+by the weight of the body the forked props should tend to incline
+towards each other this trouble may be easily remedied by inserting
+short poles as braces between them. If desired a bed of this kind
+may be used as a hammock and hung in a tree without much trouble.
+It is only necessary to secure the long poles firmly at their full
+width by a stout brace pole at the ends, letting the latter be
+deeply notched at the tips in order to receive the bed supports.
+The joints should then be tightly bound with stout twine in order
+to prevent slipping, after which the bed may be hung in mid-air
+by ropes at each end, and the tired trapper may swing himself to
+sleep with perfect comfort and safety. For this purpose the ropes
+should be attached at the joints, using a loop of six feet for
+each end. In the centre of this loop a small one should be made
+by doubling the rope and winding twine about it, leaving only a
+small aperture. Through these small loops, by the aid of other
+ropes, the bed is attached to the tree. By using this precaution
+the unpleasant experience of being turned or dumped out of bed
+will be impossible. For bed clothes a woollen blanket should always
+be carried, and if convenient a large bag of thick Canton flannel
+is a most excellent acquisition.
+
+Bags of this sort are in common use among amateur trappers, hunters
+and camping parties, and are very warm and comfortable. They should
+be nearly seven feet in length and of a "loose, easy fit." With
+one of these contrivances it is impossible to "kick the clothes
+off" and the warmth is continual instead
+[Page 250]
+of "intermittent," and even on the bare ground it is said to be
+sufficient protection. Hammocks are also in very general use, but
+we can confidently recommend the suspended bed above described
+as decidedly preferable.
+
+There are various kinds of hammocks in the market, from the light
+fibered silk, weighing only a few ounces, to the large corded variety
+of several pounds weight and capable of holding many persons. They
+are an established article of trade, and as the details of their
+manufacture would be of little practical use to the reader, we
+will leave them without further consideration. They can be had at
+almost any sporting emporium, at comparatively small cost.
+
+
+TENT CARPETING.
+
+We have described a most excellent contrivance for a bedstead and
+recommend its use whenever possible; but when the bed is desired
+to be made on the ground the following method is usually employed,
+by which the whole interior of the tent, hut or shanty is carpeted
+with a soft, even covering of green.
+
+Spruce or hemlock boughs are generally used, and should be from
+the tips of the branches where the wood is not too large. Commence
+at the back part of the shelter, and lay down a row of the boughs
+with the butt of the branch towards the front. Overlap these with
+another nearer row and continue the operation, laying the evergreen
+as evenly as possible until the whole interior is smoothly covered.
+The projecting ends at the front, should now be secured by the
+weight of a medium sized log, or by a pole pegged down firmly at
+intervals. A similar log should now be laid at the back portion
+of the shelter over the tips of the boughs after which the bed
+is complete, and will be found easy and comfortable in proportion
+to the care and skill shown in its construction. A blanket should
+be thrown over the boughs before reclining to rest, as the fresh
+green gives forth considerable dampness.
+
+If possible a rubber blanket should be used for this purpose. These
+consist of thick Canton flannel, coated on one side with Indian
+rubber, and are used with the rubber side down. They are warm and
+comfortable, and a valuable acquisition to the trapper's outfit.
+There is a thinner and cheaper variety, having equal water-proof
+qualities but which does not possess the warmth of the former.
+Either will be found useful.
+
+So much for beds and bedding. If the reader will now turn
+[Page 251]
+his attention to the following section, "The Trapper's Miscellany,"
+he will find much in detail of what has only been alluded to in the
+present chapter, besides other hints of great value in reference
+to a trapping campaign.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 253]
+[Illustration: THE TRAPPERS' MISCELLANY]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 255]
+BOOK VIII.
+
+THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.
+
+[Illustration: O]ur enthusiastic novice, as he starts out into the
+wilderness, should not be unmindful of the swarms of blood-thirsty
+flies, gnats and mosquitoes, which infest the woods in the summer
+and early autumn, and are there lying in wait for him. These often
+become a source of great annoyance to the woodsman, and more often
+a source of positive bodily suffering.
+
+Although trapping is not generally carried on during this season,
+the preparations for the coming campaign, including the building
+of shanties, transporting of traps, etc., are generally made at
+this time, and unless some preventive is used, the persecutions of
+the mosquitoes and other winged vermin, become almost unbearable.
+
+
+INSECT OINTMENTS.
+
+These insects seem to have a special aversion for the scent of
+pennyroyal--an herb growing commonly in sandy localities--and a
+single plant rubbed upon the face and hands will often greatly
+check their attacks.
+
+The oil of pennyroyal is better, however, and an ointment made by
+straining one ounce of the oil into two or three ounces of pure
+melted lard, or mutton tallow, forms an excellent antidote. This
+may be carried in a little box or bottle, in the pocket, and applied
+as occasion requires. Plain mutton tallow is also a most excellent
+ointment for general use, and in the case of bruises or slight
+wounds, will give great relief.
+
+Another preparation in very common use amongst hunters and woodsmen,
+although not quite as agreeable in odor, consists of a mixture of
+common tar and sweet oil, in equal parts. By some this liniment
+is considered superior to the other, inasmuch as it also prevents
+tanning, and is beneficial to the complexion.
+
+[Page 256]
+During the night time, the tent or shanty often becomes swarmed
+with the winged pests, and their nocturnal assaults are proverbial
+for their pertinacity and severity. Their thirst for blood overcomes
+every other instinct, and pennyroyal often ceases to have any effect.
+Our Adirondack guide, in narrating his experience with these insect
+vampires, even says that on a certain night, becoming exasperated at
+their indomitable perseverance, and, getting tired of the monotonous
+occupation of spreading ointment, he arose, lit his candle, and drove
+the creatures out of the tent. He then buttoned up the opening, and
+retired to rest. A storm came up in the night, and so completely
+had his canvas been riddled by the bills of the mosquitoes, that
+the rain poured through his tent as through a sieve.
+
+We have heard of the man who, when pursued by hungry mosquitoes,
+took refuge beneath a large chaldron, and, by the aid of a stone,
+clinched the blood-thirsty bills as they protruded in quest of his
+life-blood, until, by the united efforts of the winged captives,
+the chaldron was lifted and wafted out of sight, as if it were a
+feather.
+
+One story is just as true as the other, and a summer in the Adirondack
+woods will tend to strengthen, rather than diminish, the belief in
+either.
+
+The smoke of smouldering birch bark will effectually drive away
+the mosquitoes from the tents at night. This method is commonly
+known as "the smudge," and is more fully described in another part
+of this work.
+
+The smell of the smoke is often unpleasant at first, but it is always
+preferable to the insect bites.
+
+Mosquitoes are not the only vampires which infest our wooded lands.
+The "punkeys" and "midgets" can outstrip them for voracity and the
+painful character of the wound which they inflict. The "punkey,"
+or "black-fly," as it is called, is a small, black gnat, about the
+size of a garden ant, and the bite of the insect often results
+very seriously. The midget is a minute little creature, and is the
+most everlastingly sticky and exasperating pest in the catalogue
+of human torments. They fly in swarms of thousands, and go for their
+victim "en masse" and the face, hands and neck are soon covered as
+if with "hay seed." They stick where they first light, and commence
+operations immediately. All endeavors to shake them off are fruitless,
+and their combined attacks are soon most painfully realized. Their
+bites produce great redness and swelling, and the itching is most
+intolerable. Happily for the woodsman, the "smudge"
+[Page 257]
+and pennyroyal ointment are effectual preventives against the attacks
+of both midgets and black flies, as well as mosquitoes; and no one
+who values his life or good looks should venture on a woodland
+excursion in the summer months without a supply of this latter
+commodity. In conclusion, we would remark that, to the mosquito
+the blood of the intemperate seems to have a special attraction,
+and anyone who wishes to enjoy comparative freedom from the attacks
+of these pests, should abstain from the use of alcoholic stimulants.
+It is a too prevalent idea among trappers that whiskey and rum are
+necessary adjuncts to a trapping campaign, and many a trapper would
+about as soon think of leaving his traps at home as his whisky bottle.
+This is all a mistake. Anyone who has not sufficient strength of
+constitution to withstand the hardships and exposures of a trapping
+life, without the especial aid of stimulants, should stay at home.
+We are now alluding to the _habitual_ use of such stimulants. It
+is always well to be provided with a flask of whisky or brandy,
+in case of illness, but it should only be resorted to in such an
+event. For a mere chill, we recommend the use of red pepper tea. A
+simple swallow of this drink, (made simply by soaking a red pepper
+in a cup of hot water) will restore warmth much quicker than three
+times the amount of any alcoholic stimulant. It is not our purpose to
+extend into a lengthened temperance lecture, but only to discourage
+the wide-spread idea that _stimulants_ are _necessities_ in the
+life of the trapper. Midgets, musquitoes and punkeys delight over
+a victim with alcohol in his veins, and while to a healthy subject
+the bites are of only brief annoyance, to the intemperate they
+often result in painful, obstinate sores.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In addition to the various ointments used, it is well to be provided
+with a head-net, such as we illustrate. Nets of this kind are specially
+made for sportsmen, and consist of a spiral wire framework, covered
+with mosquito netting, and of such a size to slip easily on the
+head.
+
+[Page 258]
+They are easily made, as our engraving would indicate.
+
+A netting attachment for the hat is also an acquisition, especially
+in open woods, free from overhanging branches or dense thickets.
+Such a netting may be secured to the edge of the hat brim, and
+gathered with an elastic at the lower edge. This elastic will close
+snugly around the neck when in use, and at other times may be drawn
+above the brim and allowed to rest on top of the crown.
+
+The portable hat brim, which we illustrate, is an article of trade
+in common use among sportsmen, and particularly the angler. Our
+engraving (_a_) shows the article separate. It is made of cloth,
+and is kept in its circular shape by a steel spring band at the
+circumference, between the two sides. It may be attached to any
+hat, and will act as a most effectual shelter to the rays of a
+hot sun.
+
+[Illustration: a]
+
+The netting above alluded to may be attached to such a brim, and
+applied to the edge of the hat when desired. This is shown at (_b_),
+which also indicates the manner of adjustment of the brim. Such a
+brim will often do good service, and may be obtained at almost any
+sporting emporium at trifling cost. It is portable in every sense
+of the word, being easily bent and packed away in the pocket.
+
+[Illustration: b]
+
+
+[Page 259]
+BOAT BUILDING.
+
+Where trapping is carried on along the banks of the lakes and rivers,
+a boat of some kind becomes almost a positive necessity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The following examples represent those in most general use. Perhaps
+the most common form of the "rough and ready" order of boats, is
+that called the--
+
+"DUG-OUT," OR LOG CANOE.
+
+It's general appearance is well indicated by the accompanying
+illustration. With the proper tools, one of these canoes is easily
+made. A sharp axe, an adze, a shaving knife, a round edged adze,
+and a small auger, are principally necessary; and a cross-cut saw,
+broad-axe, sledge, and large sized chisel, will also be found useful.
+
+In any case the log should not be much less than two feet in diameter,
+perfectly sound, and free from knots. If this precaution is observed,
+the result will be all the more satisfactory, and the canoe can be
+cut so thin, as to render it a light burden; being easily carried
+on the shoulders.
+
+A pine log is generally chosen for a dug-out, on account of the
+lightness of the wood, and the ease with which it can be worked.
+Butternut, cottonwood and whitewood, are also excellent, and indeed
+almost any sound log of large size will answer the purpose.
+
+For a dug-out of good size, the log should be ten or more feet
+in length. The first thing to be done is to cut a flat surface on
+one side of the log, from end to end. This indicates the bottom
+of the canoe. On the upper side the wood should be hewn away, in
+the curve shown on the upper outline of our illustration.
+
+[Page 260]
+It is well to divide the log by notches into three equal lengths.
+In the centre division, the wood may be cut down to a straight
+line to a depth of about eight inches from the upper surface. The
+gradual curve to the bow and stern of the canoe should start from
+each end of this flat cut, and extend to the upper edge of the log,
+the guiding line being made on the sides of the log by a piece of
+chalk. The adze will come into good use in trimming off the wood on
+these curves. When this upper outline is accomplished, the log may
+be turned bottom side up, and the sides of the extremities rounded
+off. This may be done with an axe and adze, and when performed,
+the bottom curves should be made by chopping away the wood in the
+curves shown in the lower outline of our illustration. This curve
+should also be marked out with chalk, and should commence a little
+nearer the end of the log than the curve on the upper side. Shave
+off the wood to a blunt edge on this curve, at both bow and stern.
+The rough form of the canoe is now obtained, and by the aid of
+the draw-knife, or shaving-knife, it can be neatly and smoothly
+finished.
+
+It is then ready to be "dug-out." The tools most useful for this
+purpose are the adze and axe, and sometimes the sledge and chisel.
+The digging out is of course the most tedious part; but with sharp
+tools it is a comparatively easy matter. When the great bulk of the
+wood is taken out, the interior should be finished with a howel
+or round adze; and the sides may be worked to one inch and a half
+in thickness if desired. The writer once saw one of these canoes
+of most exquisite workmanship, being only one inch in thickness,
+and so light as to be easily lifted with one hand. Of course such
+perfection as this is not necessary for ordinary purposes; although
+where the canoe is expected to be carried any great distance, it
+is well to thin it as much as possible. A gimlet or small auger
+may be used to gauge the thickness of the canoe, using it in the
+following manner: Supposing the required thickness of the wood
+is two inches, proceed to bore the hole from the inside of the
+canoe, and continue until the point of the gimlet or auger barely
+makes its appearance on the outside. Draw out the tool, and if the
+thickness measures more than is required, insert into the hole
+a slender piece of wood exactly two inches in length; push it in
+as far as it will go, and you may safely work until you reach the
+end of it. By this method the thickness may be gauged in different
+parts of the boat sufficiently to acquire a fair average thickness,
+[Page 261]
+and there is no danger of cutting through. The gimlet should be
+allowed to extend outside of the canoe only sufficiently to be
+detected, and the holes thus made will seldom give any trouble as
+leaks. If, however, this should be the case, a little putty or pitch
+will remedy the difficulty.
+
+The "dug-out" may be constructed of any size, and of any desired
+shape, but the above is the usual type.
+
+When leaks or cracks occur, they may be caulked with hemp, and
+smeared with pitch, which will render them thoroughly waterproof.
+
+For lightness and portability there is no boat more desirable or
+more unique than--
+
+
+THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE.
+
+Where the white birch grows in perfection, and the trees attain
+a large size, the chief material of the birch bark canoe is at
+hand; and although we ordinary mortals could not be expected to
+attain to that perfection of skill which the Indians exhibit in
+the manufacture of these canoes, we nevertheless can succeed
+sufficiently well to answer all practical purposes. The Indian
+canoes are often perfect marvels of skill and combined strength and
+lightness. These half-civilized beings seem to take as naturally to
+the making of these commodities, as if it were almost an hereditary
+habit with them; and few men, even with the most exhaustive practice,
+can compete with the Indian in the combined result of strength,
+lightness, durability, external beauty, and nicety of work, which
+are the united characteristics of the typical bark canoe.
+
+The average length of the "Bark," as used by trappers, is about
+twelve feet, but they may be constructed of any desired dimensions,
+to the length of forty feet. A canoe of this size will carry fifteen
+or twenty persons, and may be transported with ease upon the shoulders
+of two strong men. The smaller size, above mentioned, is capable
+of carrying two persons, and is a light load for a single man.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In constructing the bark canoe the first requisite is the gunwale,
+or upper framework. This should consist of four strips of cedar,
+ash, or other light, strong wood; two for each side of the boat.
+For an ordinary sized canoe, their length should be about twelve
+feet, width one inch, and thickness one-quarter of an inch. They
+should be tied together in pairs at the ends, and the two pairs
+then joined at the same place. The object of
+[Page 262]
+these pieces is to give strength and form to the canoe, and to
+offer a firm security for the edges of the bark, which are secured
+between them. The gunwale being prepared, we are now ready for
+the birch bark. The bottom of a well made canoe should be in one
+large piece, as our illustration indicates, if possible. Select
+some large tree with the trunk free from knots or excrescences.
+Mark off as great a length as possible, and chop a straight cut
+in the bark through the whole length of the piece, after which
+it should be carefully peeled from the wood. It will sometimes
+happen, where large birches exist in perfection, that a single
+piece may be found of sufficient size for a whole canoe, but this
+is rather exceptional, and the bottom is generally pieced out,
+as seen in our drawing. This piecing may be accomplished with an
+awl and Indian twine, or by the aid of a large needle threaded
+with the same, sewing with an over-and-over stitch around the edge
+of each piece. Use as large pieces as are attainable, and continue
+to sew them on until the area of bark measures about four and a
+half feet in width by twelve feet in length, the dark colored sides
+of the bark all facing the same way. Next select a fiat piece of
+ground, and mark off a distance of ten feet, or two feet less than
+the length of the gunwales. At each end of the space two tall stakes
+should be driven into the ground about three inches apart. Now
+turn the bark on the ground with its white side uppermost, and
+fold it loosely and evenly through the long centre. In this folded
+condition it should now be lifted by the upper edge and set between
+the stakes. There will then be about a foot of projecting bark
+beyond each pair of stakes. These ends should now be covered by
+folding another piece of bark over them, sewing the edges firmly
+to the sides of the rude form of the canoe, which now presents
+itself. When this is done, each end should be supported on a log
+or stone; this will cause the bottom line to sink downwards at
+about the proper curve. We are now ready for the gunwale. Lay it
+in the proper position, fitting the edges of the bark between the
+two strips on each side, and sewing around the whole with a winding
+stitch, exactly after the manner of the edge of an ordinary palm-leaf
+fan. The inside of the canoe should now be lined with long strips
+of cedar running through the entire length of the boat if possible,
+but if not, should be so cut as to neatly overlap at the ends.
+These pieces should be an inch or two in width, and from a quarter
+to half an inch-in thickness. The ribs are then to be put in. These
+are generally made from ash, one or two inches in width, and
+[Page 263]
+a quarter of an inch in thickness. Any light flexible wood will
+answer the purpose, and even barrel hoops when attainable will do
+very well. These ribs should be bent to fit the interior of the
+canoe crosswise, either close together, or with equal distances
+between them and the ends should then be firmly secured beneath the
+gunwales by a continuous loop-stitch through the bark. For a canoe
+of twelve feet in length, the width should be about two feet, and in
+order to keep the gunwales firm, two or more cross-pieces should
+be inserted, and lashed firmly at their ends as our illustration
+shows. The centre third of the length of the canoe should be parallel
+at the sides, and if two braces, two feet in length are placed at
+each end of this third, the shape will be about perfect. We now
+have a bark canoe of considerable strength and durability, and
+it only awaits to be made water-proof for final use. In order to
+accomplish this all the seams outside, and the entire interior of
+the canoe should, be smeared with pitch, after which its floating
+qualities may be tested with confidence. Should any leaks occur their
+where-abouts are easily detected, and an additional application
+of pitch will remedy the difficulty. The Indians in sewing their
+bark canoes use tamarack roots, fibrous plants, and grasses, in
+lieu of thread, and even with these inferior materials often attain
+to such perfection in compact sewing, as to render the use of pitch
+unnecessary for water-proof purposes. Such skill is rarely attained
+by the white man, and the art of making a water-proof canoe, even
+out of a single piece of bark, is by no means an easy task without
+the aid of tar or pitch.
+
+[Page 264]
+For the trapper we strongly recommend the birch "bark." With the
+above directions we are sure no one could go astray, and we are
+equally sure that a canoe made as we describe, would present advantages
+of lightness and portability which no other style of boat would
+possess. For temporary purposes, canoes can be made from basswood,
+hemlock, or spruce bark; but they are at best, very rude and clumsy
+in comparison with the birch bark. They are generally made after
+the principles of the above described; either sewing or nailing
+the edges of the bark together, and smearing every joint and seam
+profusely with pitch, and adding gunwales, lining, and ribs.
+
+
+A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT.
+
+The following gives an easy method of making a light and serviceable
+bateau, which any boy, with moderate ingenuity or skill, could
+easily construct:--
+
+Select two boards, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness,
+eighteen or twenty inches in width, and twelve feet in length,
+which we will consider the required length of the boat. These boards
+should be well seasoned, and free from knots, and at least one of
+the sides should be straight.
+
+Next, with the aid of a draw-shave, proceed to shape the ends of
+one of the boards, as seen on our diagram, (_e_) representing the
+forward, (_g_) the stern. The curve of the bow should commence at
+about four feet from the end, and take a rounded slope upward,
+leaving about ten inches of width at the end of the board (_e_).
+The stern should be cut at the angle shown at (_g_), commencing
+at about two and a half feet from the extremity of the board and
+continuing upward to about ten inches from the upper edge. The
+board thus shaped should now be laid evenly on the other, and the
+outline of the cut portions carefully scratched upon it, after
+which the second board should be cut in a similar manner as the
+first, so as to form an exact duplicate.
+
+This being accomplished, the two should be laid evenly, one over
+the other, and the exact center of their long edges ascertained.
+Marking off about five inches on each side of this centre on both
+boards.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Next procure another board about ten inches in width, three feet
+in length, and perfectly squared at the ends. Nail each end of
+this piece securely and squarely in the space marked on each of
+the long boards. Then turn the pieces carefully over and
+[Page 265]
+nail another board across the bottom, directly opposite the first.
+We will now leave them and give our attention to the bow piece,
+which is the next requisite. This is shown at (_a_), and consists
+of a solid piece of oak, or other hard wood, well seasoned, and
+hewn out in the arrow shape, indicated in our illustration. It
+should first be cut three-cornered, the inside face being about
+eight inches, and the other two ten inches. Its length should be
+about eleven inches, and its under side should be sloped off on a
+line with the under curve of the bows. At about five inches from
+the inner face, and on each side, a piece should be sawn out, one
+inch in thickness, thus leaving on each side a notch which will
+exactly receive the side-boards of the boat, as seen at (_a_).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The piece being thus ready, the bow ends of the boards should be
+drawn together, fitted in the notches and securely spiked with
+large nails. A bow piece of this kind adds greatly to the strength
+of a boat, and will stand much rough usage. The board for the stem
+should next be prepared. This should be ten inches in width and two
+feet in length, and should be securely nailed between the ends of the
+boards at the stem, as shown at (_g_), being afterwards overlapped
+on the top by a board of similar size, as our illustration shows,
+at (_c_). The bottom of the boat is now easily made by nailing
+boards crosswise, sawing off the projecting ends close to the curve
+of the side-boards. After the pieces are all nailed in place, the
+seams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, using a blunt chisel,
+or hard wooden wedge, and a mallet. The seats should now be put
+in, as these are not only a matter of comfort, but of necessity,
+acting as braces to the sides of the boat. They should be two in
+number, one being placed three feet from the stern and the other
+one foot beyond the brace board originally nailed across the top
+of the boat. The seats should be cut at the ends in a curve
+corresponding to the part of the boat in which they are placed,
+and should be situated about a foot from the bottom of the boat,
+their ends resting on short boards beneath them against the sides
+of the boat. These are indicated by the dotted lines (_h h_) in
+[Page 266]
+the diagram. When thus resting they should be securely fastened in
+place by strong screws, driven through the sides of the boat into
+their ends (_f f_), allowing some one to sit on the seat meanwhile
+to keep it in place. Small cleats should now be tacked to the bottom
+of the boat, beneath the seat and underneath the seat itself, in
+order to keep the props in place; after which the original brace
+board across the top of the boat may be knocked off and the bateau
+is complete and ready for service. A boat thus made is quite comely
+in shape, and may be painted to suit the fancy. Should a rudder
+be required, the broad board at the stern offers a good place of
+attachment, and oar-locks may be adjusted at the proper places.
+These may consist of a pair of cleats attached to the inside of
+the boat, as seen in the illustration. In case it may be found
+difficult to obtain the large single boards for the sides of the
+boat, two or more narrow ones will answer the purpose, although
+not as perfectly. In this case they should first be firmly attached
+together by cleats, securely screwed to the inside. When first put
+on the water the boat will probably leak in places, but if left
+to soak for a few hours the wood will generally swell sufficiently
+to completely close the crevices. If, however, the leak should
+continue, that particular part of the boat should be re-caulked
+and smeared with pitch. This latter substance is of great value
+to the trapper, not only in boat building but in the construction
+of his shanties and in other various ways. It will most effectually
+stop almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should always
+be applied hot.
+
+
+[Page 267]
+THE SCOW.
+
+The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow for
+considerable speed in the water, either in rowing or sculling;
+but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed bows
+may be dispensed with, and the sides of the boat made perfectly
+straight. In this case the bottom takes equal slopes at the ends,
+and both bow and stern are of the same width, and an ordinary
+flat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result. In many cases
+a scow of this kind answers every purpose, and is certainly much
+more easily made.
+
+We have thus described a few of the most common instances of boats
+used by trappers, and with our full description and illustrations
+no one can go astray. A boat of some kind is almost an indispensable
+requisite to the trapper, and anyone of the foregoing will be found
+sufficient for all ordinary purposes.
+
+A paddle may be used, and in shallow or muddy water a pusher or
+mud-stick will be found useful. This should consist of a pole seven
+or eight feet in length, supplied at the ends with an attachment of
+the shape of the letter U. This may be constructed in two pieces,
+firmly screwed to opposite sides of the end of the pole, and so
+formed as to present a curved crotch. Such a stick will be found
+very useful for pushing through weeds and muddy places. A simple
+pole trimmed so as to leave a crotch at the end will also answer
+the purpose very well.
+
+
+SNOW-SHOES.
+
+These commodities are almost indispensable to the trapper where
+he pursues his vocation in the winter time, during the prevalence
+of deep snows. When properly made they permit the wearer to walk
+over the surface of the snow with perfect ease; where, without
+them, travel would be extremely difficult if not impossible.
+
+In the regions of perpetual snow, and also in Canada and neighboring
+districts, snow-shoes are very commonly worn. In the latter localities
+the "snow-shoe race" forms one of the favorite sports of the season,
+and young and old alike join in its mysteries. Like riding on the
+velocipede, walking on snow-shoes looks "easy enough," but we notice
+that a few somersaults are usually a convincing argument that the art
+is not as simple as it appears. The first experience on snow-shoes
+[Page 268]
+is apt to be at least undignifying, if not discouraging, and in order
+to get used to the strange capers and eccentricities of an ordinarily
+well-behaved snow shoe, it requires considerable patience and practice.
+There is no telling where, in an unguarded moment, they will land
+you, and they seem to take especial delight in stepping on each
+other and turning their wearer upside down. The principal secret
+of success (and one may as well know it at the start, as to learn
+it at the expense of a pint of snow down his back) consists in
+taking steps sufficiently long to bring the widest portion of the
+stepping shoe beyond that of the other, keeping the feet rather
+far apart and stepping pretty high. By observing these precautions,
+and trusting in Providence, much embarrassment may be saved, and
+an hour's effort will thoroughly tame the unruly appendages, which
+at best do not permit of much grace or elegance of gait.
+
+To the moose hunter snow-shoes are often an absolute necessity,
+and trapping in many cases would be impossible without them. They
+are thus brought fully within the scope of our volume, and we give
+a few simple directions for their manufacture. Our illustration
+gives the correct shape of the shoe. The framework should consist
+of a strip of ash, hickory or some other elastic wood, bent into
+the form indicated and wound around the ends with twine or strips
+of hide. The length of the piece should be about six feet, more
+or less, in proportion to the size of the individual who proposes
+to wear the shoe. If the bending should prove difficult it may
+be rendered an easy matter by the application of boiling water.
+Across the front part two strips of stout leather, or other tough
+hide, are then fastened, and these further secured together by three
+or four bands on each side of the middle, as our drawing shows.
+
+In the original Indian snow-shoe, from which our drawing was made,
+the net work was constructed from strips of moose hide, which were
+interlaced much after the manner of an ordinary cane-seated chair.
+Strips of leather, deer skin, or even split cane, above alluded to,
+may also be used, and the lacing may be either as our illustration
+represents, or in the simpler rectangular woof seen in ordinary
+cloth.
+
+In order to attach the interlacing to the bow the latter should be
+wound with wide strips of cane, if it can be procured, or otherwise
+with strips of tough skin. The loops thus formed offer a continuous
+security, and the whole interior, with the exception of the space
+at the front between the cross pieces, should be neatly filled
+with the next work. It is well to run the first lines
+[Page 269]
+across the shoe, from side to side, passing through the windings
+of the bow. Across them, in the form of the letter X, the two other
+cords should be interlaced, after the manner shown in the cut.
+This forms a secure and not very complicated network, and is the
+style usually adopted by the Indian makers.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is another mode of attaching the lace-work to the bow which
+is also commonly employed, and consists in a series of holes bored
+at regular intervals through the wood. The winding is thus dispensed
+with, but the bow is sometimes weakened by the operation, and we are
+inclined to recommend the former method in preference. In attaching
+the shoe, the ball of the foot should be set on the second cross
+piece, and there secured by a strip of hide, which should be first
+adjusted as seen in the engraving, being afterward tied over the
+foot and then behind the ankle. Snow-shoes are made in other ways,
+but we believe that the typical Indian snow-shoe above described
+is the best.
+
+
+THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.
+
+For winter traffic over deep snows there is no better sled in the
+world than the Indian toboggan. To the trapper during a winter
+campaign it is often an indispensable convenience, and without
+it the Indian hunters of the North would find great difficulty in
+getting their furs to market. All through the winter season the
+various trading posts of Canada are constantly visited by numbers
+of Indian trappers, many of whom have travelled hundreds of miles
+on their snow-shoes with their heavily laden toboggans. Arrived at
+[Page 270]
+their market they sell or trade their stock of furs, and likewise
+dispose of their toboggans, reserving only their snow-shoes to aid
+them in their long tramp homewards.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In Canada and northward the toboggan is in very extensive use, both
+for purposes of traffic and amusement. It is quite commonly met
+with in the streets of various Canadian cities, and is especially
+appreciated by the youthful population, who are fond of coasting
+over the crust of snow. For this purpose there is no other sled
+like it, and a toboggan of the size we shall describe will easily
+accommodate two or three boys, and will glide over a crust of snow
+with great ease and rapidity. To the trapper it is especially valuable
+for all purposes of transportation. The flat bottom rests upon
+the surface of the snow, and the weight being thus distributed
+a load of two or three hundred pounds will often make but little
+impression and can be drawn with marvellous ease. Our illustration
+gives a very clear idea of the sled, and it can be made in the
+following way: the first requisite is a board about eight feet
+in length and sixteen or more inches in width. Such a board may
+be procured at any saw mill. Oak is the best wood for the purpose,
+although hickory, basswood or ash will do excellently. It should
+be planed or sawed to a thickness of about a third of an inch,
+and should be free from knots. If a single board of the required
+width is not easily found, two boards may be used, and secured
+side by side by three cleats, one at each end and the other in
+the middle, using wrought nails and clinching them deeply into the
+board on the under side. The single board is much to be preferred,
+if it can be had. The next requisites are seven or eight wooden
+cross-pieces of a length equivalent to the width of the board.
+Four old broom-sticks, cut in the required lengths, will answer
+[Page 271]
+this purpose perfectly, and if these are not at hand other sticks
+of similar dimensions should be used. Two side pieces are next
+needed. These should be about five feet in length, and in thickness
+exactly similar to the cross pieces. Next procure a few pairs of
+leather shoe-strings or some strips of tough calf skin. With these
+in readiness we may now commence the work of putting the parts
+together. Begin by laying the cross pieces at equal distances along
+the board; across these and near their ends lay the two side pieces,
+as seen in the illustration. By the aid of a gimlet or awl, four
+holes should now be made through the board, beneath the end of each
+cross piece, and also directly under the side piece. It is well to
+mark with a pencil, the various points for the holes, after which
+the sticks can be removed and the work much more easily performed.
+The four holes should be about an inch apart, or so disposed as to
+mark the four corners of a square inch. It is also necessary to
+make other holes along the length of the cross pieces, as seen
+in the illustration. The line on these can also be marked with
+the pencil across the board, and the holes made afterwards. These
+should also be an inch apart, and only two in number at each point,
+one on each side of the stick. When all the holes are made the
+board should be turned over, in order to complete preparations
+on the other side. The object of these various holes is for the
+passage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose of securing
+the cross pieces firmly to the board. In order to prevent these
+loops from wearing off on the under side, small grooves should next
+be made connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing the leather
+string to sink into the wood, where it is securely protected from
+injury. A narrow chisel is the best tool for this purpose, the making
+of the grooves being much more easily and perfectly accomplished
+with this than with the jack-knife. When the under side is thus
+finished the board may be turned over and the cross pieces and
+sides again arranged in place as already described. Secure the
+pieces to the board by the leather strings through the various
+holes, always knotting on the upper surface, and taking care that
+the knots are firmly tied. The ends of all the cross pieces will
+require a double cross stitch through the four holes beneath, in
+order to secure the side pieces as well. This is plainly shown in
+the small diagram (_a_). The front end of each side piece underneath
+should now be sharpened to a point, to allow for the bend at the
+front of the toboggan. The cross piece at this end should be secured
+to the under side of the board, so that as it bends over it will
+appear on the upper edge, as our illustration shows. The board should
+[Page 272]
+next be bent with a graceful curve, and thus held in position by a
+rope or strip of leather at each extremity of the end cross piece and
+attached to the ends of the third cross piece, as seen in the engraving.
+If the bending is difficult and there is danger of breaking the board,
+the application of boiling water will render it pliable. The draw
+strings should then be attached to the ends of the second cross piece,
+and our toboggan is now complete.
+
+It may now be laden with two or three hundred pounds of merchandize
+and will be found to draw over the surface of the snow with perfect
+ease. For coasting over the crust there is nothing like it. Such a
+toboggan as we have described will easily accommodate three boys,
+the one at the stern being provided with a sharp stick for steering,
+and the front occupant holding firmly to the draw strings. The
+toboggan is easily made, and will do good service either for traffic
+or sport.
+
+
+CURING SKINS.
+
+This department of the trapper's art is one of the most important
+and necessary, as affecting pecuniary profits. The value of a skin
+in the fur market depends entirely upon the care with which it
+is taken from the animal and afterward prepared, and without a
+knowledge on this subject the young trapper will in vain seek for
+high prices for his furs. Large quantities of valuable skins are
+sent to our markets annually by inexperienced amateur trappers,
+and in many cases rare and beautiful furs have been almost spoiled
+by want of care in skinning and curing. The rules are simple and
+easily followed, a little care being all that is necessary to insure
+most perfect success. In every case the skin should be removed
+shortly after death, or at least before it has become tainted with
+decay. Great pains should be taken in skinning. Avoid the adherence
+of flesh or fat to the skin, and guard against cutting through the
+hide, as a pierced skin is much injured in value. The parts about
+the eyes, legs and ears should be carefully removed. The various
+methods of skinning are described in our section on trapping, and
+in all cases the furs should be allowed to dry in a cool, airy
+place, free from the rays of the sun or the heat of a fire, and
+protected from rain.
+
+Astringent preparations of various kinds are used by many trappers,
+but they are by no means necessary. The most common dressing consists
+of equal parts of rock salt and alum dissolved in water. Into this
+a sufficient amount of coarse flour or wheat bran is stirred to give
+[Page 273]
+the mixture the consistency of batter, after which it is spread
+thickly over the skin and allowed to dry.
+
+It is afterwards scraped off, and in some cases a second application
+is made. This preparation is much used in dressing beaver, otter,
+mink and muskrat skins, but as many of our most successful and
+experienced trappers do without it, we fail to see the advantage of
+using it, as it is only an extra trouble. The simplest and surest
+way is to stretch the skin and to submit it to a gradual process
+of natural drying without any artificial heat or application of
+astringents to hasten the result.
+
+A very common mode of stretching skins consists in tacking them to
+a board, with the fur inwards, and allowing them to dry as already
+described.
+
+This method does very well for small skins, but for general purposes
+the "stretchers" are the only means by which a pelt may be properly
+cured and prepared.
+
+
+STRETCHERS.
+
+The board stretcher is the simplest form and is in most common use
+among trappers for the smaller animals. These stretchers are of
+two kinds, the plain and the wedged. The plain stretcher consists
+of a piece of board a quarter of an inch in thickness, about eighteen
+inches long and six inches in width. One end of this board is rounded
+off, as seen in our illustration, and the sides should also be
+whittled and smoothed to a blunt edge.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The board stretchers are used only for those skins which are taken
+off whole, that is, as described in the chapter on the otter. The
+skin should be drawn tightly over the blunt end of the board, and
+its edges either caught in notches cut in the edges of the square
+end or secured by a few tacks. This stretcher is particularly
+[Page 274]
+adapted to the skins of muskrats, minks and animals of a like size.
+They are known in New England as "shingle stretchers," and are much
+to be recommended on account of their lightness and the ease with
+which they can be made and carried.
+
+The wedge stretcher is rather more elaborate than the foregoing,
+and is said to be an improvement.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first requisite is a board of about three-eighths of an inch in
+thickness, two feet or more in length, and three and a half inches
+at one end tapering to the width of two inches at the other. This
+end should now be rounded, and the edges of the board whittled off
+to a blunt edge, as already described in the foregoing, commencing
+near the centre of the board, and thinning to the edge, and finishing
+with the notches at the square end. Now, by the aid of a rip-saw,
+sever the board through the middle lengthwise.
+
+The wedge is the next thing to be constructed, and should consist
+of a piece of wood the thickness of the centre of the board and
+of the same length, tapering from an inch in width at one end to
+half an inch at the other.
+
+To use the stretcher the two boards are inserted into the skin,
+(the latter with the fur side inward). The wedge is then inserted
+between the large ends of the boards and driven in sufficiently to
+stretch the pelt to its full capacity, securing it in the notches
+by slight cuts in the hide, or by a tack or two at the edge. It
+should then he hung in a cool, airy place, and the pelt left to
+"season."
+
+The bow stretcher is another contrivance very commonly used for
+small skins like the foregoing. When this is used the pelt should
+be skinned as described on page 185, the initial cut commencing
+at the lower jaw and extending down between the fore legs, all
+the feet being previously cut off. The bow may consist of a switch
+of any elastic wood such as hickory iron wood, elm or birch. It
+should be about three or more feet in length, and as large as a
+man's thumb at the butt end. By bending it in the shape of the
+letter U it may easily be inserted in the skin, the latter being
+[Page 275]
+fastened by catching the lip on each side into a sliver notch cut on
+each end of the bow, as our illustration indicates.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+For large animals, such as the deer, bear, beaver, the hoop stretcher
+is generally employed.
+
+
+THE HOOP STRETCHER.
+
+This consists of a hoop made from one or more flexible switches
+tied together so as to form a circle. In order to be adapted to
+this mode of stretching, the skin should be flat, _i. e._ taken
+off as described on page 172, the initial cut extending from the
+lower jaw to the vent. The size of the hoop required depends upon
+the dimensions of the skin. Lay the latter upon some flat surface
+and so gauge the hoop as that it shall surround the pelt on all
+sides; after which the latter should be secured or laced to the
+hoop with twine at the edges. All loose parts should be drawn up,
+and the skin should everywhere be stretched like a drum head. When
+this is accomplished it is the custom with many trappers to apply
+the preparation described on page 273, particularly where the skin
+is thick and fatty. But we are rather disposed to discourage the
+use of any preparation whatever, in any case, as they are by no
+means necessary.
+
+In using the board stretchers the fur should always be on the inside,
+and when the hoop or bow is used it should be placed in such a
+position, that the air may circulate freely on both sides of the
+skin, which should not be removed until thoroughly dry.
+
+
+[Page 276]
+TANNING SKINS.
+
+In case some of our readers might desire to tan fur skins for their
+own domestic purposes, the subjoined directions will be found to be
+reliable, and for all ordinary requirements, sufficiently adequate.
+
+For tanning with the hair on, the skin should first be cleaned,
+every particle of loose fat or flesh, being removed, and the useless
+parts cut away. When this is done, it should be soaked for an hour
+or two in warm water. The following mixture should then be prepared:
+Take equal parts of borax, saltpetre, and sulphate of soda, and
+with them mix water sufficient to produce the consistency of thin
+batter.
+
+This preparation should be painted thickly on the flesh side of
+the skin, after which these sides should be doubled together and
+the pelt left in an airy place.
+
+A second mixture should next be prepared. This should consist of
+two parts sal soda; three parts borax; four parts castile or other
+hard soap: all to be melted together over a slow fire. At the end
+of twenty-four hours, after the application of the first mixture,
+the second should be applied in a similar manner, and the fur again
+folded and left for the same length of time. Next, make a mixture
+equal parts of salt and alum, dissolved in warm water and thickened
+with coarse flour to the consistency of thin paste. Spread this thickly
+over the skin and allow it to dry, after which it should be scraped
+off with the bowl of a spoon. The skin should be tightly stretched
+during the operation, in order to prevent too great shrinkage. A
+single application of the last-named dressing, is generally sufficient
+for small skins; but a second or third treatment may be resorted
+to if required, to make the skin soft and pliable, after which it
+should be finished off with sand-paper and pumice stone. A skin
+may be thus dressed as soft as velvet, and the alum and salt will
+set the hair securely.
+
+The above directions are excellent, for all general purposes, but
+we subjoin, in addition, a few other valuable hints and specific
+recipes in common use. Every trapper has his own peculiar hobby
+in regard to his tanning process, and the recipes are various and
+extensive. The above is one of the most reliable for general use.
+A common mode of tanning mink and muskrat skins is given in the
+following:--
+
+
+TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS.
+
+Before tanning, the skin should always be thoroughly cleansed
+[Page 277]
+in warm water, and all fat and superfluous flesh removed. It should
+then be immersed in a solution made of the following ingredients:
+Five gallons of cold soft water; five quarts wheat bran; one gill
+of salt; and one ounce of sulphuric acid. Allow the skins to soak in
+the liquid for four or five hours. If the hides have been previously
+salted, the salt should be excluded from the mixed solution. The
+skins are now ready for the tanning liquor, which is made in the
+following way: into five gallons of warm, soft water, stir one peck
+of wheat bran and allow the mixture to stand in a warm room until
+fermentation takes place. Then add three pints of salt, and stir until
+it is thoroughly dissolved. A pint of sulphuric acid should then be
+poured in gradually, after which the liquor is ready. Immerse the
+skins and allow them to soak for three or four hours. The process
+of "fleshing" is then to be resorted to. This consists in laying the
+skin, fur side down, over some smooth beam, and working over the
+flesh side with a blunt fleshing tool. An old chopping knife, or
+tin candlestick, forms an excellent substitute for the ordinary
+fleshing knife, and the process of rubbing should be continued
+until the skin becomes dry, after which it will be found to be
+soft and pliable. The skin of the muskrat is quite tender, and the
+fleshing should be carefully performed.
+
+
+HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, AND MARTEN.
+
+These should be stretched on a board and smeared with a mixture
+composed of three ounces each, of salt and alum; three gills of
+water, and one drachm of sulphuric acid. This should be thickened
+with wheat bran or flour, and should be allowed to dry on the skin,
+after which it should be scraped off with a spoon. Next, take the
+skin from the board, roll it with the fur inside, and draw it quickly
+backward and forward, over a smooth peg, or through an iron ring.
+The skin should then be unfolded and rolled again the opposite
+way, and the operation repeated until the pelt is quite soft and
+flexible. This is a good way of softening all kinds of skins, and
+the above preparation will be found excellent for all ordinary
+purposes. The muskrat skin may be treated in the same manner as
+the above, if desired, and the process directed on the muskrat
+skin may also be applied to the pelts of the other animals.
+
+To remove the fur for a simple tanned skin, the hide should be
+immersed in a liquid composed of--soft water, five gallons; slaked
+lime, four quarts; and wood ashes, four quarts. Allow
+[Page 278]
+the skin to soak for a couple of days, after which the fur will
+readily slip off.
+
+Another method--take equal parts wood ashes and slaked lime, and
+add water to the consistency of batter. Spread this over the inside
+of the skin, roll it up, and place it in a pail, covering it with
+water. Here let it remain from one to five days, or until the hair
+will shed easily, after which it should be finished with the fleshing
+knife and velveted with sand paper.
+
+
+OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.
+
+In all cold climates, man has availed himself liberally of the
+warm covering with which nature has clothed the animals around
+him; but the wealth of the most favored nations has drawn to them
+the most beautiful furs, in whatever part of the world they are
+procured. Skins of animals were among the first materials used
+for clothing. Before Adam and Eve were driven from the Garden of
+Eden, they were furnished with coats of skins. The ancient Assyrians
+used the soft skins of animals to cover the couches or the ground
+in their tents, and the Israelites employed badger's skins and
+ram's skins, as ornamental hangings for the Tabernacle. The ancient
+heroes of the Greeks and Romans, are represented as being clothed
+in skins. Æneas, wearing for an outer garment, that of the lion,
+and Alcestes being formidably clad in that of the Libyan Bear.
+Herodotus speaks of those living near the Caspian Sea wearing seal
+skins, and Cæsar mentions that the skin of the reindeer formed in
+part the clothing of the Germans. In the early period, furs appear
+to have constituted the entire riches of the Northern countries,
+and they were almost the only exports. Taxes were paid on them,
+and they were the medium of exchange. So it was also in our own
+Western territories in the latter part of the last century, and is
+to the present day, to a great extent, among the Indians. In the
+eleventh century, furs had become fashionable throughout Europe,
+and the art of dyeing them, was practiced in the twelfth. In the
+history of the Crusades, frequent mention is made of the magnificent
+displays by the European Princes, of their dresses of costly furs,
+before the Court at Constantinople. But Richard I. of England, and
+Philip II. of France, in order to check the growing extravagance
+in their use, resolved that the choicer furs, ermine and sable
+amongst the number, should be omitted from their kingly wardrobes.
+Louis IX. followed their example in the next century, but not
+[Page 279]
+until his extravagance had grown to such a pitch, that _seven hundred
+and forty-six_ ermines were required for the _lining_ of one of his
+_surcoats_. In the times, the use of the choicer furs, as those
+of the sable, ermine, gris, and Hungarian squirrel, was restricted
+to the royal families and the nobility, to whom they served as
+distinctive marks and badges of rank. These privileged persons
+applied them lavishly to their own use, and the fashion extended
+to the princes of other less civilized nations. Their royal use
+soon extended to Tartary, and the tents of the Khan were bedecked
+with the most rich and costly furs. In the following century, furs
+were commonly worn in England until their use was prohibited by
+Edward III., to all persons whose purse would not warrant a yearly
+expenditure of £100.
+
+The early fur trade of Western Europe, was conducted through the
+merchants on the south coast of the Baltic, who received goods from
+the ports of Livonia. In the sixteenth century, a direct trade was
+opened between the English and Russians; and a company of the former,
+protected by the Czar, established trading posts on the White Sea,
+and a warehouse at Moscow, whence they sent trading parties to
+Persia and the countries on the Caspian Sea. The Czar sent rich
+presents of beautiful furs, to Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth;
+but the latter prohibited the wearing of any but native furs, and
+the trade soon declined and was abandoned. In the 17th century,
+Siberia was conquered by the Russians, and its tribute was paid
+in furs. Large quantities were also furnished to China, but the
+choicest kinds--the precious ermine, the brilliant, fiery foxes, and
+the best sables, were taken to Moscow, for the use of the princes
+and nobles of Russia, Turkey, and Persia.
+
+In our own country, the early settlers of the Northern provinces,
+soon learned the value of the furs of the numerous animals which
+peopled the extensive rivers, lakes, and forests of these vast
+territories. They collected the skins in abundance, and found an
+increasing demand for them, with every new arrival of immigrants
+from the mother country. Trinkets, liquors, and other articles
+sought for by the native tribes, were shipped to Quebec, and from
+thence up the St. Lawrence to Montreal, which soon became the great
+trading post of the country. The various tribes of Indians were
+stimulated by trifling compensation, to pursue their only congenial
+and peaceful occupation; and the French settlers, readily assimilating
+to the Indian habits, became themselves expert hunters, trappers,
+and explorers.
+
+The business prospered, and the English soon became interested and
+secured a share of the valuable trade. Many
+[Page 280]
+wealthy and influential parties, connected with the government
+of Great Britain,--Prince Rupert and Lord Ashley, among the
+number--became deeply interested in this source of revenue; and
+after a successful enterprise, they obtained from Charles II., a
+charter of incorporation, giving to them full possession of the
+territory within the entrance of Hudson's Straits, not already granted
+to other subjects, or possessed by those of any other Christian
+prince or State. In this charter was included the monopoly, of all
+trade in these regions, and thus we see the origin of the Great
+Hudson's Bay Company, which is to-day, one of the largest organizations
+of its kind on the globe. The territory they claimed, extended
+from Hudson's Bay, west to the Pacific, and north to the Arctic
+Ocean, excepting that occupied by the French and Russians. They
+soon formed settlements upon the various rivers which empty into
+Hudson's Bay, and carried on their operations with immense vigor
+and success. They met with much opposition and open hostility from
+the French, and were subjected to vast expenses and losses, but in
+spite of all, they continued to prosper. Their forts or factories
+were extended further into the interior of British America, and
+their power was supreme throughout the country, and in a great
+measure over the Indians, whom they employed to collect their skins.
+In the course of time, the French Canadians organized themselves
+into a united band, under the name of the North West Company, and
+established their headquarters at Montreal. Their operations were
+carried on with great energy and profit, and many factories were
+built in the western portion of the Province. The company thus soon
+became a formidable competitor with the Hudson's Bay Company and
+for a period of two years, an actual state of war existed between
+them. This condition of affairs finally terminated in a consolidation
+of the two organizations, under the name of the Hudson's Bay Company,
+the privileges of which extended over all the territory formerly
+occupied by both.
+
+Thus, we have the history of the famous Hudson's Bay Company, from
+its origin to its perfect organization. It is a most stupendous
+concern, and its annual shipment of furs, is something amazing.
+Their great sales take place in the month of March, in order to
+be completed before Easter; and again in September, every year
+at London, and are attended by purchasers from nearly all parts
+of the world. Leipsic, the famous fur mart of Germany, is also
+the scene of a great annual fair, for the sale of skins.
+
+The importance of the fur trade in this country, led to the
+[Page 281]
+early settlement of the Western territories of the United States;
+and many a frontier city, like St. Paul, has been built up by the
+enterprise of the trapper. Mackinaw and Montreal owe much of their
+growth to the traffic of the fur trade; and many a kingly fortune--John
+Jacob Astor's, for instance--has been founded on peltry.
+
+Besides the above fur sales in London a moderate portion of those
+annually collected in the United States are retained for use, amounting
+to about 150,000 mink and 750,000 muskrat skins, besides a number
+of other furs which are manufactured and worn.
+
+The annual yield of raw furs throughout the whole world is estimated
+at over twenty millions of dollars in value; and when we include
+the manufactured articles therefrom, the amount will swell to a
+hundred millions or over. This will serve to give some idea of
+the immensity and value of the business.
+
+American dealers divide our native furs into two classes, viz.,
+_home_ and _shipping_ furs; the former being chiefly utilized in
+our own country, while the latter are exported to all parts of
+the world. New York City is the great fur mart and depot for the
+shipping trade in this country, and the annual value of its exports,
+in this one branch of trade is enormous.
+
+The principal shipping furs are the silver, red and cross Fox, Wild
+Cat, Raccoon, Fisher, Muskrat and Skunk.
+
+Among the home furs are the Marten, Mink, Opossum, Wolf and Muskrat,
+the latter being extensively used both here and abroad.
+
+In the following chapter will be found more detailed notes on the
+leading American furs, including their various uses and the different
+countries for which they are the especial staples.
+
+In order to give the reader some idea of the variety and magnitude
+of the yield of furs from our own country, we annex a table (p.
+282) showing the sales of the Hudson's Bay Company, at London,
+in the year 1873.
+
+
+MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS.
+
+Below will be found an authentic table of the comparative values
+of the various American furs at the present date of publication.
+The quotations are those of one of our largest fur dealers, as
+published in "THE HAT, CAP AND FUR TRADE REVIEW," the leading journal
+of the trade in America. Of course these values are constantly
+varying--keeping pace with the eccentricities of fashion and the
+demands of the fur trade; but
+[Page 282]
+the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values, as
+between the two extremes of common and scarce furs. The fur market
+is a great deal like the stock market. It is constantly fluctuating,
+and a fur which is to-day among the novelties, may next year find
+itself on the low priced list. The demand for furs of any kind
+is nearly always governed by fashion, and of course the value is
+estimated on the demand. If the convention of fur dealers should
+decide to usher in _Muskrat fur_ as the leading and most fashionable
+article in that line, the fashion would create the demand, the
+demand would be in turn supplied by the trappers throughout the
+country, and in proportion as the Muskrat skins became scarce,
+so their value would increase. In this way a skin which may be
+worth fifty cents at one time may soon acquire a value of twenty
+times that amount. The comparative value of skins is, therefore,
+constantly varying more or less; but the annexed table (page 283)
+will be found useful for general reference, and for approximate
+figures, will probably answer every purpose for some time to come.
+
+ ==========================================================================
+             |  No. of |  No. of |         |                     |Estimated
+             |  Skins. |  Skins. |  Total  |  Price according to | average
+    KINDS.   |  March  |  Sept.  |   No.   |        quality.     |price per
+             |  Sale.  |  Sale.  |         |                     |  skin.
+ ------------|---------|---------|---------|-------------------------------
+             |         |         |         |                     |  £ s. d.
+ Badger      |   2,700 |         |   2,700 | 1s. to 7s.          |     1 06
+ Bear        |   5,217 |   2,794 |   8,011 | 5s. to £8 10s.      |  5  0 00
+ Beaver      | 111,993 |  37,052 | 149,045 | 4S. 3d. to 38s. 6d. |  1 00 00
+ Fisher      |   2,843 |     779 |   3,622 | 8s. to £3 5s.       |  2 10 00
+ Fox, Blue   |      90 |         |      90 | 18s. to £4.         |  2 10 00
+  "   Cross  |   1,818 |     471 |   2,289 | 5s. to £4.          |  1 10 00
+  "   Kitt   |   6,930 |         |   6,930 | 2s. 8d. to 28s. 10d.|     3 00
+  "   Red    |   6,914 |   1,383 |   8,297 | 4s. 6d. to 17s.     |    10 00
+  "   Silver |     540 |     148 |     688 | £3 10s. to £21.     | 10 00 00
+  "   White  |   7,312 |         |   7,312 | 2s. to 14s. 9d.     |     7 00
+ Lynx        |   2,468 |   1,652 |   4,120 | 9s. 6d. to £1 14s.  |    18 00
+ Marten      |  47,878 |  18,955 |  66,833 | 10s. to £3 19s.     |  1 10 00
+ Mink        |  31,802 |  12,896 |  44,698 | 4s. to £1 8s. 6d.   |    15 00
+ Muskrat     | 651,498 | 116,488 | 767,896 | 3d. to 16d.         |    00  8
+ Otter       |   8,571 |   2,681 |  11,252 | 14s. to £3 18s.     |  2 10 00
+   "   Sea   |         |      98 |      98 | £4 10s. to £32.     | 15 00 00
+ Rabbit      |  10,029 |         |  10,029 | 3d. to 4d.          |    00  3
+ Raccoon     |         |   3,582 |   3,582 | 1s. to 3s. 3d.      |     2  6
+ Skunk       |   1,691 |         |   1,691 | 2s. to 7s.          |     4 00
+ Wolf        |   6,216 |     188 |   6,404 | 6s. to £2 15s.      |    15 00
+ Wolverine   |   1,770 |     320 |   2,090 | 8s. to £1 1s.       |    15 00
+ ==========================================================================
+
+
+[Page 283]
+ AMERICAN FUR SKINS--TABLE OF VALUES.[*]
+ ==========================================================================
+                                       | Prime. |Seconds.| Thirds.|Fourths.
+ --------------------------------------|--------|--------|--------|--------
+ Badger                                |  $1.00 |  $0.50 |  $0.10 |  $
+ Bear, Black                           |  18.00 |   9.00 |   1.00 |
+   "   Cub                             |  10.00 |   5.00 |   1.00 |
+   "   Brown                           |   7.00 |   4.00 |   1.00 |
+ Beaver, California            per lb. |   1.25 |     75 |     50 |
+    "    Southern                      |   1.00 |     75 |     40 |
+    "    Upper Missouri                |   1.75 |   1.50 |     50 |
+    "    Lake Supr. and Canada.        |   2.50 |   1.75 |     75 |
+ Cat, Wild                             |     40 |     10 |        |
+  "   House                            |     15 |     10 |        |
+ Deer, Florida                 per lb. |     20 |        |        |
+  "    Missouri                        |     20 |        |        |
+ Elk and Moose                 per lb. |     35 |     25 |        |
+ Fisher, Southern                      |   7.00 |   5.00 |   1.00 |
+   "     Eastern and Canada            |  10.00 |   8.00 |   2.00 |
+ Fox, Silver                           | 100.00 |  25.00 |   1.00 |
+  "   Cross                            |   3.00 |   1.50 |   1.00 |
+  "   Blue                             |  15.00 |   5.00 |   1.00 |
+  "   White                            |   3.00 |   1.50 |        |
+  "   Red                              |   1.75 |   1.00 |     75 |     25
+  "   Gray                             |   3.00 |   1.50 |     50 |     25
+  "   Kitt                             |     50 |     25 |        |
+ Lynx, Minnesota                       |   2.50 |   1.00 |        |
+  "    Canada                          |   4.00 |   2.00 |        |
+ Marten, Dark                          |  10.00 |   6.00 |   2.00 |
+   "     Small Pale                    |   2.00 |   1.00 |     50 |
+ Mink, Southern                        |   1.00 |     50 |     25 |     10
+   "   Western                         |   1.25 |   1.00 |     50 |     10
+   "   Middle States                   |   2.00 |   1.25 |     50 |     10
+   "   Minnesota                       |   2.50 |   1.50 |     75 |     20
+   "   New England                     |   3.50 |   1.75 |   1.00 |     20
+   "   Quebec and Halifax              |   4.00 |   2.00 |   1.00 |     20
+ Muskrat, Southern                     |     28 |     25 |     15 |      5
+    "     Western                      |     30 |     28 |     18 |      6
+    "     Northern                     |     32 |     30 |     20 |      8
+    "     Eastern                      |     35 |     30 |     22 |     10
+ Opossum, Ohio                         |     30 |     20 |     10 |
+    "     Southern                     |     20 |     10 |        |
+ Otter, Southern                       |   5.00 |   3.00 |   2.00 |     50
+   "    Northern                       |  10.00 |   6.00 |   2.00 |     50
+ Rabbit                                |      3 |        |        |
+ Raccoon, Southern                     |     50 |     30 |     15 |      5
+    "     Western                      |   1.00 |     50 |     20 |      5
+    "     Michigan                     |   1.25 |     80 |     30 |      5
+ Seal, Hair                            |     60 |        |        |
+   "   Fur                             |  10.00 |        |        |
+ Skunk, Black Cased                    |   1.00 |     60 |     40 |     10
+   "    Half Stripe                    |     60 |     50 |     25 |     10
+   "    White                          |     20 |     10 |        |
+ Wolf, Timber                          |   3.00 |   1.50 |        |
+   "   Prairie                         |   1.00 |     75 |        |
+ Wolverine                             |   5.00 |   2.00 |        |
+ ==========================================================================
+
+[Footnote *: From the "Hat Cap and Fur Trade Review."]
+
+[Page 284]
+Notwithstanding all these advertised prices, the young trapper
+often experiences great difficulty in a profitable disposal of his
+furs. Like every other business, the fur trade runs in its regular
+grooves, and the average furrier will often pay an experienced
+professional five dollars for a skin for which he would not offer
+a _dollar_ to an amateur. This certainly seems discouraging, but
+the knowledge of the fact is calculated to prevent _greater_
+discouragement.
+
+We often see fancy prices advertised by fur dealers for first-class
+skins; but when the furs are sent, only a few are selected as "_prime_,"
+the rest being rejected as worthless, or perhaps meeting with a
+meagre offer far below the regular rates. In this way the dealers
+have the opportunity of choice selection without incurring any
+risk. Many a young trapper has been thus disappointed, and has
+seen his small anticipated fortune dwindle down to very small
+proportions.
+
+The fur trade is supplied through regular professional channels;
+and in giving our advice to the novice, we would recommend as the
+most satisfactory and profitable plan that he should make his sales
+to some local hunter or trapper, who has had experience with the fur
+trade, and who is satisfied to pay a fair price for the various skins
+with the probability of selling at an advance, and thus realizing
+a profit.
+
+In nearly every trapping locality such men are to be found, and
+although the prices earned may be below the market rates, the amateur
+takes none of the speculative risks of the business, and should
+be willing to take lower prices on this account.
+
+
+AMERICAN FUR SKINS--THEIR USES AT HOME AND ABROAD.
+
+In the early history of fur apparel, its use was determined by
+_climate_; to-day, and especially in this country, it is regulated
+by the caprice of _fashion_. The mink for many years took the lead
+in the list of fashionable furs, but has of late been superseded
+by the introduction of the fur seal. The most choice and costly
+of our American furs at the present day is the Silver Fox. When
+highly dressed they are worth from 10 to 50 guineas each in the
+European market. They are principally bought by the Russians and
+Chinese.
+
+The skins of the Red Fox are purchased by the Chinese, Greeks,
+Persians, and other Oriental nations. They are made into linings
+for robes, etc., and ornamented with the black fur of the paws
+which is set on in spots or waves. The fur of the
+[Page 285]
+Beaver was formerly highly prized in the manufacture of hats and
+yielded a large portion of the profits of the Fur Companies,
+constituting the largest item in value among furs. Cheaper materials
+have since been substituted in making hats, and the demand for
+this purpose has been greatly reduced. By a new process the skin
+is now prepared as a handsome fur for collars and gauntlets, and
+its fine silky wool has been successfully woven. The soft, white
+fur from the belly of the animal, is largely used in France for
+bonnets.
+
+Raccoon skins are the great staple for Russia and Germany, where,
+on account of their durability and cheapness, they are in demand
+for linings for coats, etc. Among the Bear skins, those of the
+black and grizzly are extensively used for military caps, housings,
+holsters, sleigh robes, etc.
+
+The fur of the Lynx is soft, warm and light, and is commonly dyed
+of a beautiful shining black. It is used for the facings and linings
+of cloaks, chiefly in America.
+
+The Fisher yields a dark and full fur which is largely used in
+fashionable winter apparel.
+
+The skin of the Marten, is richly dyed and utilized in choice furs
+and trimmings.
+
+The Mink, like the two foregoing, belongs to the same genus as
+the Russian Sable, and its fur so much resembles the latter as to
+be sometimes mistaken for it. It is one of fashion's furs, and the
+hair of the tail is sometimes used in the manufacture of artist's
+pencils.
+
+The Muskrat produces the fur most worn by the masses, and is largely
+exported into Germany, France and England. It is estimated that
+over six millions of muskrat skins are annually taken in America,
+and of that number one-half are used in Germany alone.
+
+The skin of the Otter is at present classed among the leading
+fashionable furs in this country. They are dyed of a deep purplish
+black color, and are made into sacques, muffs, etc. It is also
+used by the Russians, Greeks and Chinese. It is mostly an American
+product, but is also procured to some extent in the British Isles
+from a smaller variety of the species.
+
+The skins of the Wolf are chiefly used for sleigh robes and such
+purposes. The fur of the Rabbit is mainly employed in the manufacture
+of felt, and is also utilized for lining and trimming. The business
+of breeding rabbits for their fur has been introduced into the
+United States, and large numbers have been successfully raised in
+Danbury, Conn., for felting purposes connected with the manufacture
+of hats.
+
+[Page 286]
+The fur of the Wolverine or Glutton, finds a market for the most
+part in Germany, where it is used for trimmings and cloak linings.
+
+The Skunk furnishes the fur known as Alaska Sable, which forms
+one of our staple pelts, many thousands being annually exported
+to Poland and the adjacent provinces.
+
+The Badger yields a valuable and fashionable fur, which is also
+extensively used in the manufacture of artist's brushes; a good
+"badger blender" forming a valuable accessory to a painter's outfit.
+Shaving brushes by the thousand are annually made from the variegated
+hair of the badger.
+
+The Opossum yields a fur in very common use among the masses, and
+the skins of the domestic Cat are utilized to a considerable extent
+in the manufacture of robes, mats, etc. The fur of the Puma and Wild
+Cat are also employed in this form, and may often be seen handsomely
+mounted and hanging on the backs of sleighs on our fashionable
+thoroughfares. Among the small game the skins of Squirrels are used
+for linings, and the soft, velvety fur of the Mole is manufactured
+into light robes, and very fine hats, and in theatrical paraphernalia
+is sometimes employed for artificial eyebrows.
+
+Full descriptions of the color of the various furs will be found
+in our lengthy illustrated chapter on our American animals.
+
+[Illustration: THE END.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 289]
+[Illustration: INDEX]
+
+A
+
+Adirondack experiences with mosquitoes, 256.
+Advice to the Novice on the sale of Furs, 283.
+Air-tight Jar, for butter, &c., 236.
+Alaska Sable, 286.--See also Skunk.
+Alcohol, its use and abuse, 257.
+Alum--used in waterproofing, 249.
+"Amateur Trapping," 225.
+AMBER, OIL OF, used in the art of Trapping, 152.
+AMERICAN FUR SKINS.--Table of values, 284.
+  Their uses at Home and Abroad, 284.
+American Lion.--See Puma.
+Amputation, self inflicted, as a means of escape with captured
+  animals, 144.
+  To prevent, 144, 145.
+Ancient uses of Furs, 278.
+ANISE, OIL OF.--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+  As bait for fish, 240.
+Annual yield of Furs throughout the world, 281.
+Apparatus for stretching skins, 273.
+Arrows, poisoned, 26.
+Arrow Traps, 23, 25.
+Artificial Eyebrows of Mole Fur, 286.
+ART OF TRAPPING, 148.
+ASSAFOETIDA.--
+  Its use by the Trapper, 151.
+  As scent bait for fish, 240.
+ASTOR, JOHN JACOB, and the Fur Trade, 281.
+Astringent Preparations, use of, in drying Skins, 273, 276.
+
+B
+
+BADGER, THE,--
+  Nature and habits of, 175.
+  Skinning the, 177.
+  Trapping the, 175.
+  Uses of Fur, 286.
+  Value of Fur, 284.
+Bags, Waterproof, for food, 236.
+Baiting the Steel Trap, 143.
+Baits for fishing, 240.
+Baits, scent, 149.
+Bait, Trapping without, 148.
+BARK SHANTY.--
+  Hints on, 266.
+  Details of construction, 245.
+Bark-Stone.--See Castoreum.
+Bark-Stone composition.--See Castoreum.
+"Barque."--See Birch Bark Canoe.
+Barrel Hoops used in canoe building, 264.
+BARREL TRAPS, 125, 127, 133.
+Basket for the shoulders, 234, 236.
+Basswood-bark canoes, 264.
+Bateaux, 264.
+BAT FOWLING NET, 70.
+Baking, recipe for, 253.
+Bay Lynx.--See Wild Cat.
+Beans as food, 235.
+BEAR.--
+  Nature and habits of, 168, 227.
+  Trapping the, 168.
+  Traps for, 17, 29, 143.
+  Various species of, 168.
+  Directions for removing skin, 172.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+"Bear Tamer," 137, 142.
+"Bear Chasing," dangers of the sport, 170.
+[Page 290]
+Bear Grease, 171.
+Bear Meat, to roast, 233.
+  "    " to dry, 237.
+BEAVER.--
+  Nature and habits of, 177.
+  Trapping the, 177.
+  Skinning the, 182.
+  Skin, to tan, 277.
+  Use of fur, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+BEDS AND BEDDING, 248.
+Bed, spring, 248.
+ "   hammock, swinging, 249.
+Bed clothes, 249.
+BIG HORN, the, 220.
+  As food, 220, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 220.
+  Trapping the, 220.
+BIRCH BARK CANOE, remarks on, 226.
+  Directions for making, 261.
+Bird-Catching Net, 70.
+BIRD LIME, 97.
+  Masticated Wheat used as, 99.
+  Recipe for making, 98.
+  Used in capture of Puma, 35.
+  Used for capture of Humming Bird, 99.
+  Used in making Fly-paper, 136.
+  Used with an Owl as decoy, 98.
+  With paper cone, as a Crow trap, 96.
+BIRD TRAPS, 65.
+  "  Box, 88, 90. 91.
+BIRD WHISTLE, 72.
+BISON.--See Buffalo.
+Black Fly.--See "Punkey."
+Blanket, woollen, 250.
+  Rubber, 236.
+  Use of, 250.
+Block-tin, used for kettles, &c., 235.
+Blossom, utilized as a trap, 99.
+Blow-gun, used in the capture of Humming Bird, 99.
+BOARD FLAP, the, 130.
+BOARD STRETCHERS, 273.
+BOATS, remarks on, 226.
+  Manufacture of, 259.
+  The dug-out, or log canoe, 259.
+  The birch-bark canoe, 261.
+  The bateau, 264.
+  The scow, 267.
+  The flat-bottomed boat, 267.
+Boiled Mush, 232.
+    "       to fry, 232.
+Boiling water used in bending wood, 268, 272.
+Book I. TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME, 17.
+    II. SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS, 39.
+   III. TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65.
+    IV. MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103.
+     V. HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125.
+    VI. STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137.
+   VII. THE CAMPAIGN, 225.
+  VIII. THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255.
+Boots, hints on, 228.
+  Grease for, 228.
+Bottle Lantern, 241.
+   "  Match Safe, 234.
+BOW STRETCHER, for skins, 274.
+BOW Traps, 23, 25, 116.
+BOWL TRAPS, 135, 136.
+Box Bird Traps, 55, 88, 90, 91.
+BOX DEAD FALL, 128.
+Box Hut, used in Pickerel fishing, 241.
+BOW OWL TRAP, 88.
+BOX PIT-FALL, 131.
+BOX SNARES, 55, 56.
+BOX TRAP, the, 103.
+  Two modes of setting, 105.
+Box Traps, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110.
+BOX TRAP, pendent, 91.
+Brandy on a trapping campaign, 257.
+Brass wire nooses, 41.
+Brick Trap, 66.
+Broiling, recipes for, 233.
+Brook Trout, fishing through the ice, 240.
+  "   To cook deliciously, 232.
+Bruises, ointment for, 255.
+Buckskin gloves, in handling traps, 149.
+Building the camp fire, 233.
+Buffalo, the, 220.
+  As food, 221, 238,
+  How hunted and trapped, 221.
+Building boats, 259.
+Butternut log, for canoe, 239.
+Butter, to keep on a campaign, 236.
+
+C
+
+Cage traps for birds, 76.
+     "      "  mice, 134.
+Call Birds, how used, 72.
+CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS, 225.
+CAMPAIGN, PLAN OF, 225.
+Camp fire, 228.
+  To build, 233.
+Camp Kettle, 235.
+  "  Knife, 235.
+  "  Stove, 228, 235.
+Canada Grouse, 238.
+   "   Lynx.--See Lynx.
+   "   Moose.--See Moose.
+Candles, in camp, 227.
+  "  Novel way of using, 218.
+[Page 291]
+Canned vegetables, 236.
+CANOES, remarks on, 226.
+  "     Basswood-bark, 264.
+  "     Birch-bark, directions for building, 261.
+  "     Hemlock bark, 264.
+  "     Log.--See Dug-out.
+  "     Spruce bark, 264.
+Canton flannel bags, for bed clothes, 249.
+Canvass-back Duck, as food, 239.
+Canvas bags, waterproof, 236.
+Caps, percussion, used in lighting fire, 234.
+CAPTURE OF ANIMALS, 154.
+CARPETING TENTS, 250.
+CASTOREUM, or Barkstone, 150.
+  How obtained, 150.
+  How used.--See Beaver.
+CASTOREUM COMPOSITION, 150.
+Cat, domestic, use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Cat, wild.--See Wild Cat.
+Caulking boats, 261, 266.
+Caution in baiting steel traps, 113.
+Caution in handling steel traps, 149.
+Chill, remedy for, 257.
+Chimney-fire in log shanty, 245.
+Chip as a plate, 232.
+Chip, for a frying pan, 230, 232.
+Chloride of Lime, as an antidote, 152.
+Choosing a trapping ground, 225.
+Cicely, Sweet, as scent bait in fishing, 240.
+Cities built up by the fur trade, 281.
+CLAP NET, 72.
+Clearing tents and shanties from insects, 230.
+Climate and fur apparel, 284.
+CLOG, THE, 146.
+Cloth for tent making, 247.
+  "  Waterproof preparation for, 247.
+Clothing, hints on, 228.
+Coasting on the Indian sled, 270.
+Cock of the plains, 238.
+Coffee, 236.
+Coffee-pot, 235.
+Cold, remedy for, 257.
+Combination camp-knife, 235.
+COMMON BOX TRAP, 103.
+Compass, pocket, 227.
+Compound scent-bait, 150, 153.
+Concealing steel traps, 229.
+Cone of paper as a trap, 96.
+Corrall, African trap, 34.
+COOKING UTENSILS FOR A CAMPAIGN, 230, 235.
+Coon.--See Raccoon.
+COOP TRAP, 67.
+  " For large game, 33.
+Cotton drilling, used for making tents, 247.
+  "  Waterproof preparation for, 247.
+"Cotton Tail."--See Rabbit.
+Cougar.--See Puma.
+Cow's udder, as fish bait, 240.
+Crackers as food, 236.
+Crow trap, 96.
+CUMMIN, used in trapping, 152.
+Cup, portable, 231.
+CURING SKINS, 272.
+Current price list of American furs, 284.
+
+D
+
+Dark lantern, used by bird catchers, 71.
+  Deer hunters, 217.
+DEAD-FALLS, 17, 29, 107, 111, 113.
+  "  Box, 128.
+  "  For large game, 17.
+  "  How set for the fox, 113.
+  "  Stone, 29.
+  "  Weighted harpoon, 26.
+  "  With figure four trap, 114.
+Dead fish, valuable in making trails, 153.
+Decoys, 72, 76, 94.
+Decoy traps, 72, 76, 94.
+  "  Whistle, 74.
+  "  Owl used as, 98.
+DEER, 124.
+  As food, 233, 237, 238.
+  How to skin the, 219.
+  Hunting at night, 217, 218.
+  Luminosity of eyes at night, 217, 218.
+  Natural characteristics of, 214.
+  Salt as bait for, 218.
+  Season for hunting, 218.
+  Trapping the, 214, 215.
+  Various modes of hunting, 217.
+  Various species of, 215.
+Deer lick, the, 215.
+Deer meat, to dry, 237.
+Deer meat, to roast, 233.
+Delmonico outdone, 232.
+Detecting the direction of the wind by the finger, 217.
+Devices used in connection with the steel trap, 144, 147.
+Devils' Lantern, 241.
+Diet of the Trapper, 230.
+"DOUBLE ENDER," the, 109.
+Double traps, 57, 109, 110, 129.
+DOWN FALL, the, 26.
+Dressing for fur skins, 273, 276.
+Dressing for leather, 228.
+Dressing skins for market, 272.
+  "  Home use, 276.
+Dried fish, 237.
+Dried venison, 237.
+Drilling, as tent material, 247.
+  "  Waterproof preparation for, 247.
+[Page 292]
+Drinking cup, portable, 231.
+Drying skins, 272, 273, 276.
+Ducks, various species of, 239.
+  As food, 239.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+DUCK TRAPS, 94, 95.
+"DUG-OUT," THE, hints on, 226.
+  Detailed directions for making, 259.
+
+E
+
+Eels, oil prepared from, 151.
+Elk.--See Moose.
+"Ephraim."--See Bear.
+Escaping from the mosquitoes, 255.
+Exports of furs, 281, 285.
+Extemporized frying pan, 232.
+  "Toaster," 233.
+Extract of beef, Liebig's, 236.
+Extravagance in fur apparel, 279.
+
+F
+
+False bottom traps, 127, 131, 133.
+Fashion and fur, 279, 283, 285.
+FEATHERED GAME, TRAPS FOR, 65.
+Felt, use of rabbit-fur in making, 286.
+FENNEL, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152.
+FENUGREEK, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152.
+FIGURE FOUR SNARE, 61.
+FIGURE FOUR TRAP, 107.
+  "  Used with Dead-Fall, 114.
+Finger, as a weather vane, 217.
+Fire, to build, 227.
+  "  To light without matches, 234.
+  "  With powder and cap, 234.
+  "  Without "anything," 235.
+Fire arms, 227.
+  "  Oil for, 227.
+Fire bottle, 241.
+Fire Hat for night hunting, 218.
+Fire-proof preparations for tents, 247.
+Fish, to bake, 232.
+  To dry, 237.
+  To fry, 233.
+FISHER MARTEN.--
+  How to trap the animal, 194.
+  Its nature and habits, 194.
+  Its common mode of release from capture, 144.
+  Method of skinning, 195.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+FISH-HOOK, trap for ducks, 95.
+Fishing, hints on, 239.
+  At night, 239.
+  Through the ice, 240.
+  Various baits, 240.
+  With tip-up. 240.
+  For pickerel, 240.
+Fishing tackle, 227, 240, 241.
+Fish lantern, 241.
+FISH OIL, used in the art of trapping, 151.
+  How obtained, 151.
+Fish, scent baits for, 240.
+  Spearing, 239.
+Fish traps, 120, 241.
+Flat bottomed boats, 264, 267.
+Flat bottomed sled.--See Toboggan
+Flat stone, as a frying pan, 232.
+Flower, converted into a trap, 99.
+Fly, black.--See "Punkey."
+FLY-PAPER, to make, 136.
+Fly Tent, the, 246.
+Fly traps, 136.
+Food, portable, 230.
+FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS, 230.
+"FOOLS' CAP" TRAP FOR CROWS, 96.
+Forks, 235.
+Fortunes founded on peltry, 281.
+FOWLING NET, the, 70.
+Fox.--
+  Nature and habits of, 154.
+  Trapping the, 154.
+  Trapped by a dead-fall, 111, 113.
+  Varieties of, 154.
+  Directions for skinning, 158.--See also Red and Silver Fox.
+"Fox fire," used in capture of deer, 218.
+Fritters, pork, to cook, 231.
+Frying pan, 231, 235.
+  "  An extemporized, 232.
+Fur Market, eccentricities of, 283.
+Furs, ancient uses of, 278.
+  Annual yield throughout the world, 281.
+Furs, best season for, 147.
+  "Home," 281.
+  Sale of, by Hudson's Bay Company, 281.
+  "Shipping," 281.
+  Table of market values, 282.
+Fur skins, to cure for market, 272.
+  To tan, 276.
+  Hints on selling for profit, 283.
+  Various uses of, 285.
+FUR TRADE, OBSERVATIONS ON, 278.
+  Immensity of, 281.
+
+G
+
+Game, protected from wolves, 237.
+GAROTTE TRAP, 114.
+Gloves to be used in trapping, 149.
+Glutton.--See Wolverine.
+[Page 293]
+Gnats, 230, 256.
+  Painful effects of their bites, 256.
+  Remedies for their bites, 255.
+  Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
+Gnat, black.--See "Punkey."
+Goose trap, 75.
+GOPHER.--
+  Nature and habits of, 205.
+  Trapping the, 205.
+  Traps for, 119, 120, 40.
+  Directions for skinning, 206.
+Grappling iron, the, 146.
+Grease for boots and shoes, 228.
+"Great Bear Tamer," the, 142.
+GRIZZLY BEAR.--
+  Nature and habits of, 169.
+  Trapping the, 169.
+  Traps for, 17, 142.
+  Use of fur, 285.
+Ground plan of trapping lines, 228.
+Ground, selection for trapping, 225,
+GROUND SNARES, 44.
+Grouse, as food, 233, 238.
+  Bait for, 42.
+  Oil of, for fire arms, 227.
+  Peculiarities of, 42.
+  Snares for, 39.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+  Various species of, 238.
+GUN TRAP, 20.
+
+H
+
+Hair Nooses, 41.
+Half tent, 246.
+Hammocks, 250,
+Hammock bed, 249.
+Handling steel traps, caution in, 149.
+Hanging bed, 249.
+Hare.--See Rabbit.
+HARPOON TRAP of Africa, 26.
+Hat Brim, portable, 258.
+  Netting attachment for, 258.
+Hat lantern for night hunting, 218.
+Hawk snare, 43.
+HAWK TRAP, 93.
+Head lantern used in deer hunting, 218.
+HEAD NET, 257.
+HEDGE NOOSES, 41.
+Hemlock bark canoes, 264.
+Hemlock boughs, as bedding, 250.
+Hemp, used in caulking boats, 261, 266.
+"Hiding" steel traps, 229.
+High top boots, 228.
+Hints on baiting the steel trap, 143.
+Hints on selection of trapping ground, 225.
+Hints on skinning animals, 272.
+Hints on trapping, 148.
+Hints on plans of trapping lines, 228.
+Hints on sale of furs, 283.
+Hippopotamus trap, 26.
+Historical items relating to furs and the fur trade, 278.
+Hoe cake, to cook, 232.
+Hogs carried off by bears, 170.
+Hog's liver used as fish bait, 240.
+"Home Furs," 281.
+HOME-MADE BOAT, 264.
+Honey as bait, 19, 31, 170.
+Hook trap for ducks, 95.
+Hopo, African trap, 34.
+Hoop nooses, 40.
+HOOP STRETCHER for skins, 275.
+Horse hair nooses, to make, 41.
+Hot drink for chills, 257.
+HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125.
+House Tent, 247.
+How to select a steel trap, 138.
+HOW TO TRAP, 153.
+Hudson Bay Company, origin of, 280.
+  Sales of, 281, 282.
+Humming bird, killed by concussion, 99.
+  "  Snare, 99.
+  "  Trap, 99.
+  "  Various modes of capture, 99.
+Hunting the deer, 217.
+Hunting from trees, 218.
+HUT, LOG.--See Log Shanty.
+
+I
+
+Implements required on a trapping campaign, 227.
+Improved springle, 60.
+INDIAN CANOE.--See BIRCH BARK CANOE.
+Indian meal, as food, 231.
+INDIAN SLEDGE.--See Toboggan.
+INDIAN SNOW SHOE, 268.
+India-rubber blanket, 236.
+  How used, 250.
+INSECT OINTMENTS, 255.
+Insect bites, remedies for, 255.
+  "  Sores resulting from, 257.
+Insects, to drive out from tent or shanty, 230, 256.
+Intemperance, 257.
+
+J
+
+Jack knife, a valuable tool, 227. Jar, as a trap, 135.
+[Page 294]
+Jar, air-tight, for butter, 236.
+"Jerked Venison," 231.
+JOHN JACOB ASTOR, and the fur trade, 281.
+Johnny cake, to cook, 232.
+
+K
+
+Kettle, camp, 235.
+Knapsack, 234.
+  Directions for making, 236.
+Knife, a necessary implement, 227.
+Knife, the combination camp, 235.
+Knives, table, 235.
+
+L
+
+Lake trout, fishing for, 240.
+  To cook deliciously, 232.
+Lantern for the head, used by deer hunters, 218.
+Lantern used by bird catchers, 71.
+Lantern trap for fish, 241.
+Large game, traps for, 17.
+LAVENDER, used in the art of trapping, 152.
+Leather preservative, 228.
+"Le Chat."--See Lynx.
+Lemonade, 236.
+Lens, to light fire with, 234.
+Lever for setting large steel traps, 142.
+Liebig's extract of beef, 236.
+Light, the trapper's, 227.
+Light for the head in night hunting, 218.
+Light home-made boat, 264.
+Lime, chloride of, as a disinfectant, 152.
+Liniment for wounds and bruises, 255.
+  "  Insect bites, 255.
+Linseed oil, used as bird lime, 98.
+Lion, American.--See Puma.
+LIST OF PRICES OF AMBRICAN FURS, 284.
+Liver, as fish bait, 240.
+LOG CABIN.--See Log Shanty.
+Log Canoe.--See Dug-Out.
+LOG COOP TRAP, 33.
+LOG SHANTY, hints on, 226, 229.
+  Detailed directions for building, 244.
+  Site for building, 244, 287.
+  To clear of gnats and mosquitoes, 230.
+Lucifer Matches.--See Matches.
+"Luxuries," 234.
+LYNX, THE CANADIAN, 164.
+  Natural characteristics of, 164.
+  Trapping the, 164.
+  Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 33, 35, 141.
+LYNX.--
+  Directions for skinning, 166.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+
+M
+
+Mackinaw and the Fur Trade, 281.
+Mallard Duck as food, 239.
+  "  to Cook.--See Duck.
+MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS, 281.
+Marmot.--See Woodchuck.
+MARTEN:--
+  Nature and habits of, 192.
+  Trapping the, 192.
+  Its common mode of escape, 144.
+  Directions for removing skin, 194.
+  How to tan the Skin, 277.
+  Value and use of skin, 284, 285.
+Mastic Varnish used in water-proofing, 234.
+MATCHES, 227.
+  Bottle used for carrying, 234.
+  To render water-proof, 234.
+Meal, Indian, as food, 231.
+Meat, to dry, 237.
+"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS, 149.
+Menagerie Whistle, 74.
+Merganser, the, as food, 239,
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+MIDGETS, 256.
+  Painful effect of their bites, 256.
+  Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
+  Ointments for bites, 255.
+  Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
+MINK:--
+  Nature and habits of, 189.
+  Trapping the, 189.
+  Traps for, 43, 141.
+  Its common mode of escape from the steel trap, 144.
+  Directions for skinning, 191.
+  To tan skin of, 277.
+  Extensive use of skins in America, 281.
+  Uses of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+MISCELLANEOUS hints on trapping, 148.
+MISCELLANY, the Trapper's, 255,
+MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103.
+MOLE, 207.
+  Beauty of fur, 209, 211.
+  Life and habits of, 207.
+  Trapping the, 119, 210.
+  Traps for, 119, 120, 140.
+  Varieties of, 211.
+  Directions for skinning.--See Gopher.
+  Use of fur, 286.
+[Page 295]
+Montreal and the Fur Trade, 281.
+MOOSE:--
+  Nature and habits of, 219.
+  Trapping the, 220.
+  "Yards," 220.
+  Flesh as food, 220, 223, 238.
+  How to skin the animal, 220.
+Moose meat, to roast, 233.
+  "  Meat to dry, 237.
+MOSQUITOES, 230.
+  Painful effects of their bites, 257.
+  Ointments for bites, 255.
+  Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
+  Adirondack experiences with, 255, 256.
+  Head-net, 257.
+  Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
+Mouse Traps, 124, 130, 131, 134, 135.
+Mud Stick or Pusher, 267.
+Mush, to boil, 232.
+  to fry, 232.
+MUSK:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 151.
+  How obtained, 151.
+MUSKRAT:--
+  Nature and habits of, 182.
+  Pit-fall Trap for, 133.
+  Spearing the, 183.
+  Trapping the, 182.
+  Traps for, 43, 107, 110, 111, 114, 133, 141.
+  Its common mode of release, 144.
+  Extensive use of skins in America, 281.
+  Skin, to remove, 185.
+    To tan, 277.
+    Use of, 286.
+    Value of, 284.
+Muscovy Duck as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+Musquaw.--See Bear.
+
+N
+
+Natural Advantages utilized by the Trapper, 149.
+Natural History.
+  Necessity of its study in the art of Trapping, 148.
+Neatsfoot Oil for Fire Arms, 227.
+NET:--
+  " Bat fowling, 70.
+  " Bird catching, 70.
+  " Clap, 72.
+  " Decoy, 72.
+  " Fish, use of, 241.
+Net for the head, 257.
+  "  Fowling, 70.
+Net traps, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85.
+  For Tiger, Puma, or Wild Cat, 35.
+  Spring, 80.
+  The upright, 85.
+  Wild Duck, 94.
+  Wild Goose, 175.
+Netting attachment for Hat brim, 258.
+NEWHOUSE TRAP, THE, 138.
+Night-hunting, 217, 218.
+Night-fishing, 239.
+Nooses:--
+  Horse hair, 41.
+  In hedge, 42.
+  On hoops, 40.
+  On string, 40.
+NOOSE TRAPS, 39.
+Nooses, wire, 41.
+Northwest Fur Company, 280.
+Nutting in Mid-winter, 212.
+
+O
+
+Oar-locks, simple, 266.
+Oat-meal as food, 236.
+OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE, 278.
+Oil, Fish.--
+  Used in trapping, 151.
+  How obtained, 151.
+Oil of Amber.--
+  Used in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Ambergris.--
+  Used in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Anise:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Cinnamon:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Fennel:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Fenugreek:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Lavender:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Rhodium:--
+  Its use by trappers, 151.
+Oil of Skunk:--
+  Its use by trappers, 151.
+Oil:--
+  For fire arms, 227.
+  For light, 227.
+Oil of Partridge:--
+  Its use, 227.
+Oil of Pennyroyal:--
+  For insect bite, 255.
+[Page 296]
+Ointment for Bruises and Wounds, 255.
+OINTMENT FOR INSECT BITES, 255.
+OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE, 58.
+Olive Oil in cooking, 236.
+OPOSSUM, 201.
+  Nature and habits of, 202.
+  Trapping the, 201.
+  Hunting the, 202.
+  Directions for skinning, 203.
+  Uses of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+OTTER:--
+  Nature and habits of, 202.
+  Trapping the, 186.
+  Directions for skinning, 189.
+  How to tan the skin, 277.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+OWL TRAP, 88.
+Owl:--
+  Used in connection with bird lime as decoy, 98.
+
+P
+
+Paint as a water-proof covering, 236.
+Painter, the.--See Puma.
+Panther, the.--See Puma.
+Paper Cone used as a trap, 96.
+Partridge, 42, 238.
+  As food, 238.
+  Fat for fire arms, 227.
+  Snares, 39, etc.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+Peltry:--
+  Fortunes founded on, 281.
+  Cities built up on, 281.
+PENDENT BOX, BIRD TRAP, 91.
+Pennyroyal for insect bites, 255.
+Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257.
+Percussion Cap used in lighting lire, 234.
+Peshoo, the.--See Lynx.
+Phosphorescent wood used in night-hunting, 218.
+Phosphorus lantern for catching fish, 241.
+Pickerel fishing, 240.
+  "  Spearing, 241.
+  "  Trap for, 121.
+  "  To cook, 233.
+Pigeon Net-trap, 72.
+Pigs carried off by Bears, 170.
+Pine Log Canoe.--See Dug-out.
+Pinnated Grouse, 238.
+Pitch for stopping leaks, 261, 264, 266.
+PIT-FALL TRAPS.--
+  For large game, 31.
+  For small game, 125, 127, 131.
+  Barrel, 127.
+  Box, 131.
+  For Muskrat, 133.
+PLAN OF TRAPPING CAMPAIGN, 225.
+Plates, substitutes for, 232, 235.
+Platform snare. 61.
+Poachers, or trap robbers, 229.
+POACHER'S SNARE, 48.
+Pocket compass, 227.
+POCKET HAT BRIM, 258.
+  "  Sun-glass, 234.
+Poisoned arrows, 26.
+POISONING, 222.
+Pop-corn as bait for Quail, 54.
+Portable boats, 259.
+Portable food & cooking utensils, 230, 235.
+Portable drinking cup, 231.
+  Hat brim, 258.
+   " With netting attached, 258.
+  Snares, 50, 52.
+  Stove, 228, 235.
+Pork as food, 231.
+  "  Fritters, 251.
+  "     "  To make, 232.
+"Possum."--See Opossum.
+Potatoes as food, 235.
+Pouched Rat.--See Gopher.
+Powder used in lighting fire, 234.
+Prairie Hen, 238.
+Prairie Whistle, 74.
+Precautions in handling steel traps, 156.
+PREFACE, 3.
+Preparation of skins for market, 272.
+Preserve jar used as trap, 135.
+Price Current of American Furs, 284.
+Prime fur, best season for, 147.
+Prof. Blot outdone in cooking, 232.
+Profit in selling furs, 233.
+PRONGHORN Antelope, 221.
+  Nature and habits of, 221.
+  How hunted and trapped, 221, 238.
+Provisions, to protect from Wolves, 237.
+Ptarmigan, to cook, 233.
+  Trap for, 75.
+  How hunted and trapped, 239.
+  Various species of, 230.
+PUMA:--
+  Bait for, 20, 31, 32, 163.
+  Nature and habits of, 161.
+  Peculiarities of, 20.
+  Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 31, 33, 141.
+  Trapping the, 161.
+  Directions for skinning, 164.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Pumice Stone, used in finishing skins, 276.
+"PUNKEY."--
+  Description of the Insect, 256.
+  Severity of bites, 256.
+  Ointment for bites, 255.
+  Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
+[Page 297]
+Punk Tinder, used in lighting fire, 234. "Pusher."--See Mud stick.
+Putty, for stopping leaks, 261.
+
+Q
+
+Quail, bait for, 40, 54.
+  "  Snares, 39, 40, 41, etc.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+Quotations of the Fur Market, 284.
+
+R
+
+RABBIT:--
+  As food, 238.
+  Bait for, 203.
+  How to skin, 204.
+  Nature and habits of, 203.
+  Salt as bait for, 109,
+  Traps for, 43, 64, 103.
+  Use of fur, 286.
+  Value of fur, 284.
+  Varieties of, 203.
+RACCOON:--
+  As a pet, 173.
+  Nature and habits of, 172.
+  Trapping the, 172.
+  Traps for, 110, 116, 141.
+  Hunting the, 172.
+  Directions for skinning, 175.
+  How to tan the skin, 277.
+  Use of the fur, 285.
+  Value of the fur, 284.
+Rat:--
+  Snares for, 43.
+  Trapping the, 125.
+  Traps for, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138.
+Rations for a Campaign, 230.
+Raw Furs.--See Furs.
+Recipe for insect ointments, 255.
+  Boot grease, 228.
+  For cooking, 230.
+  For curing skins, 272.
+  For tanning skins, 276.
+Red Fox.--See Fox.
+Red Fox.--
+  Value of skin, 284.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+Red Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257.
+Red Squirrel.--See Squirrel.
+Remedies for insect bites, 255.
+  For chills, 257.
+Requisites of a good steel trap, 138.
+  "  For snaring, 39.
+  "  For a good trapping ground, 225.
+  "  For a trapping campaign, 227.
+Revolver, 227.
+Reynard outwitted by a dead-fall, 111, 113.
+RHODIUM, Oil of:--
+  Its use by the trapper, 151.
+Rice as food, 236.
+Rifle and Shot Gun combined, 227.
+  Oil for, 227.
+RIFLE TRAP, 20.
+Roasting, recipes for, 233.
+Rocky Mountain Sheep.--See Big Horn.
+"Roughing it," 230.
+Rubber blanket, 236.
+  How used, 250.
+Ruffed Grouse.--See Partridge.
+Rum on a trapping campaign, 257.
+
+S
+
+Sage Cock, the, 238.
+Sale of furs by the Hudson's Bay Company, 282.
+Salmon, spearing, 239.
+  "  Spear, 239.
+Salmon Trout, spearing, 239.
+Salmon, to cook deliciously, 232.
+Salt as bait for Deer, 218.
+  As bait for Rabbit, 109.
+Salt Lick, the, 218.
+Sandpaper used in softening skins, 276.
+Salt Pork as food, 231.
+SCENT BAITS, 149.
+  "  Compound, 150, 153.
+Scented baits for birds, 240.
+Scented baits for fish, 240.
+Season for Deer hunting, 218.
+Scow, 267.
+Season for trapping, 147.
+Selection of trapping ground, 225.
+Self-amputation as a means of escape with captured animals, 144.
+Self-amputation, to prevent, 144, 145.
+Self-raising flour, 235.
+SELF-SETTING TRAPS, 110, 125, 127, 131.
+SHANTY:--
+  Bark.--See Bark Shanty.
+  "Home."--See Log Shanty.
+  Log.--See Log Shanty.
+Sheeting as tent material, 247.
+  Water-proof, preparation for, 247.
+Shellac Varnish used in water-proofing, 234.
+SHELTER:--The trapper's remarks on, 226.
+Shelter tent, 247.
+  Details of construction, 242.
+Shingle stretchers for skins, 274.
+[Page 298]
+"Shipping furs," 281.
+SHOOTING AND POISONING, 222.
+Shot-gun Trap, 20.
+Shot-gun combined with rifle, 267.
+Shoulder basket, 234, 226.
+SIEVE TRAP, 65.
+Silver Fox, 154.
+  Value of skin, 284, 285.
+Skinning animals, hints on, 272.
+Skins:--
+  Stretchers for, 273.
+  To dry, 272, 276.
+  To soften, 276, 277.
+  To tan, 276.
+  Value of, 284.
+  Use of, 285.
+SKUNK, 195.
+  Adventure with, 196.
+  As food, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 195.
+  Trapping the, 195.
+  Traps for, 43, 111, 114, 141.
+  To eradicate odor of, 152, 198.
+  Oil of, used in trapping, 151.
+  Directions for skinning, 198.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Sled, Indian.--See Toboggan.
+SLIDING POLE, 145.
+Slippery Elm used for bird-lime, 98.
+"Small Game" as food, 237.
+Smell, acute sense of, in animals, 148.
+Smoking the steel trap, 128.
+Smouldering birch bark to drive away insects, 230.
+Smudge, the, 230, 256.
+SNARE.--
+  Box, 55.
+  Double box, 56.
+  Fig. Four, 62.
+  Hawk, 43.
+  Hedge, 42.
+  Hoop, 40.
+  Humming-bird, 99.
+  Knotted string, 52, 53, 54.
+  Pasteboard box, 56.
+  Platform, 61.
+  Poacher's, 48.
+  Portable, 48, 50, 52.
+  Quail, 53.
+  Rat, 43.
+  "Simplest," 52.
+  Springle, 58, 60.
+  Stovepipe, 120.
+  Tree, 42.
+  Triangle, 42.
+  Twitchup, 43.
+  Wood Chuck, 43.
+SNARES, OR NOOSE TRAPS, 37.
+Snaring, requisites for, 39.
+Snow Grouse, the, 238.
+SNOW-SHOES, 267.
+Snow-shoe race, 267.
+Softening skins, 276, 277.
+Sores resulting from insect bites, 257.
+Soups, recipes for, 236.
+Spearing fish, 239, 241.
+Spearing Muskrats, 183.
+Spider for cooking, 233.
+Spoons, 235.
+Spring-bed, 249.
+SPRINGLE, 58, 60.
+Spring-net Traps, 80.
+Spring-pole, the, 144.
+Spring, to temper, 84.
+Spruce Bark Canoes, 264.
+Spruce boughs as bedding, 250.
+Spruce Grouse, 238.
+SQUIRRELS, 211.
+  As food, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 211.
+  Traps for, 43, 103, 106, 107, 110, 116, 128, 140.
+  Various species of, 213.
+  To cook, 233.
+  Use of skins, 286.
+STEEL TRAPS, 137.
+  Caution in handling, 149.
+  Concealing in the woods, 229,
+  Various modes of setting, 144.
+  Requisite number for a campaign, 227.
+  To set for rats, 128.
+  To select judiciously, 138.
+  Requisites of, 138.
+  Hints on baiting, 143.
+Steel Trap spring, to set with lever, 142.
+STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137.
+Still hunting, 217.
+Stimulants, 257.
+Stone Dead-fall, 29.
+Storing traps in the woods, 229.
+Stove, portable, 228, 235.
+Stovepipe fish-trap, 120.
+St. Paul, Minn., and the Fur Trade, 281.
+STRETCHERS FOR SKINS, 273.
+Strychnine poisoning, 222.
+Sucker wire nooses, 41.
+Sugar of lead used in water-proofing, 247.
+Sun-glass, 234, 235,
+Sweet Cicely as bait for fish, 240.
+SWEET FENNEL.--
+  Oil used in trapping, 152,
+Sweet Oil and Tar Ointment for insect bites, 255.
+Swinging bed, 249.
+
+[Page 299]
+T
+
+Table knife and bowl trap, 135.
+Table showing sale of furs by Hudson Bay Company, 282.
+Tallow, mutton, as ointment, 255.
+Tame Geese as decoys, 75.
+TANNING SKINS, 276.
+  Mixtures, 276, 277, 278.
+  With the hair on, 276.
+  Simple, 278.
+Tar and Sweet Oil ointment for insect bites, 255.
+Tar for water-proofing, 264.
+Tea, 236.
+ " Red pepper, as a remedy, 257.
+Teal Ducks as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+"Telescope" Drinking Cup, 231.
+Tempering iron spring, 84.
+TENTS, 246.
+  House-tent, 246.
+  Fly-tent, 247.
+  Half-tent, 247.
+  Shelter-tent, 247.
+  Materials, 247.
+  Water-proof preparation for, 247.
+  Fire-proof preparation for, 247.
+  To carpet with spruce, 250.
+  To clear of gnats and musquitoes, 230.
+TENT CARPETING, 250.
+Thimble used with bowl as Mouse trap, 136.
+Tiger captured with bird lime, 35.
+Tiger trap, 31.
+Tinder, 234.
+Tip-ups, 240.
+Toaster, an extemporized, 233.
+TOBOGGAN, OR INDIAN SLEDGE, 269.
+Tools required on a trapping campaign, 227.
+Tools required for canoe building, 259.
+Torch for the head, used in night hunting, 218.
+"Touch-wood " used in lighting fire, 234.
+Trail. The.--
+  Its value to the trapper, 153.
+  Various modes of making, 153.
+TRAP.--
+  Arrow, 23, 25.
+  Barrel. 125, 127.
+  Bird, 65, 70, 73, 75, 88, 90, 91, 96.
+  Bow, 23, 25, 116.
+  Bowl, 135.
+  Box, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110.
+  Brick, 66.
+  Cage, 76, 134.
+  Cob house, 67.
+  Coon, 110, 116, 141.
+  Coop, 33, 67, 70.
+  Crow, 96.
+  Dead-fall, 17, 107, 111.
+  Decoy, 72, 76, 94.
+  Double ender, 109.
+  Down-fall, 26.
+  Duck, 94, 95.
+  Fish, 120.
+  Fish hook, 95.
+  Fly, 136.
+  Fool's-cap, 96.
+  Garotte, 114.
+  Gun, 20.
+  Harpoon, 26.
+  Hawk, 42, 93.
+  Hook, 95.
+  Jar, 135.
+  Mole, 119, 120.
+  Mouse, 130, 131, 134, 135.
+  Net, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85.
+  Owl, 88.
+  Partridge, 43, etc.
+  Pendent Box, 91.
+  Pitfall, 11, 125, 127, 131.
+  Ptarmigan, 75.
+  Quail, 39, 40, 41, 53.
+  Rabbit, 43, 64, 103.
+  Rat, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138.
+  Rifle, 20.
+  Self-setting, 110, 125, 127, 131.
+  Sieve, 65.
+  Spring net, 80, 83, 85.
+  Steel, 140.
+  The "Newhouse," 140.
+  Tree, 42, 91.
+  Upright net, 85.
+  Wild Duck, 94, 95.
+  Wild Goose, 75.
+  Woodchuck, 43.
+Trapper's beds and bedding, 248.
+  "  Cooking utensils, 230.
+  "  Diet, 230.
+TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255.
+  "  Shelter, 226, 242.
+  "  Sled.--See Toboggan.
+TRAPPING, art of, 148.
+  Season for, 147.
+  Miscellaneous hints on, 148.
+  Campaign, plan of, 225.
+    Tools and other requisites, 227.
+    Ground, selection of, 225.
+  Valuable suggestions on, 228.
+Trapping Lines, 226.
+Trap robbers, 220.
+Traps for large game, 17.
+[Page 300]
+  FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65.
+  HOUSEHOLD, 125.
+Tree hunting, 218.
+Tree snare, 42.
+  "  Traps, 42, 91.
+TRIANGLE SNARE, 42.
+Trout, to cook deliciously, 232.
+Trumpet Creeper flower used as a trap, 99.
+Tumbler fly-trap, 136.
+Twitch-up, 43, 62.
+  Poacher's, 48.
+  Portable, 50.
+  "Simplest," 52.
+
+U
+
+UPRIGHT NET TRAP, 85.
+  "  Snares 44, 58.
+Use and abuse of Alcohol, 257.
+Uses of fur skins, 285.
+Utensils for cooking, 230, 235.
+
+V
+
+Value of fur skins, table of, 262.
+Various uses of fur skins, 285.
+Varnish water-proof preparation for preserving matches, 234.
+Vegetables for food on a campaign, 235.
+  "  Canned, 236.
+Venison as food, 233, 237.
+  To roast, 233.
+  To preserve, 237.
+  "Jerked," 237.
+  Dried, 237.
+
+W
+
+Walking on the snow, 267.
+War in the fur trade, 281.
+Watch crystal as sun glass, 287.
+Water fowl as food, 239.
+Water-proof application for boats, 261, 264, 266.
+  "  Canvas bags, for food, 236.
+Match safe, 234.
+  "  Preparation, 236, 247, 266.
+  "  Varnish for matches, 234.
+Water traps, 110, 120.
+Wedge stretcher for skins, 274.
+Weighted harpoon trap, 26.
+Wheaten grits as trappers' food, 236.
+Wheat flour as food, 235.
+  "  Self-raising, 235.
+Wheel form of trapping lines, 229.
+Whiskey on a trapping campaign, 257.
+Whip lashes from Woodchuck hide, 204.
+Whistlebird, 74.
+White Birch Canoe, 261.
+White-wood log for Dug-out, 259.
+Widgeon, the, as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+WILD CAT:--
+  Nature and habits of, 167.
+  Snares for, 43.
+  Trapping the, 166.
+  Skinning the, 168.
+  Uses of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Wild Duck, to cook, 233.
+Wild Duck, traps, 94, 95.
+Wild Goose as food, 239.
+Wild Goose to cook, 233.
+Wild Goose trap, 75.
+Wind, direction of, to detect by the finger, 217.
+Winged vermin, 255.
+Winter fishing, 240.
+Wire cage trap for birds, 76.
+  "    "  For mice, 134.
+Wire nooses, 41.
+WOLF.--
+  Nature and habits of, 158.
+  Trapping the, 158.
+  Poisoning the, 222.
+  Traps for, 20, 141.
+  To protect provisions from, 237.
+  Varieties of, 158.
+  Directions for skinning, 161.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+WOLVERINE:--
+  Nature and habits of, 199, 238.
+  Trapping the, 199.
+  Natural enemy to the Beaver, 200.
+  Directions for skinning, 201.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+WOODCHUCK, 204.
+  As food, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 204.
+  Snare, 205.
+  Trapping the, 204.
+  Use of skin, 204.
+  Smoked from its burrow, 205.
+  Removing skin of, 205.
+Woodcock, to cook, 233.
+Wood Duck as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+Woodland beds and bedding, 249.
+Wounds, ointment for, 255.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks
+of Trapping and Trap Making, by William Hamilton Gibson
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+ <title>Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making</title>
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of
+Trapping and Trap Making, by William Hamilton Gibson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making
+
+Author: William Hamilton Gibson
+
+Release Date: January 2, 2007 [EBook #17093]
+[This file was first posted on November 18, 2005]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS AND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert J. Hall
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig001.jpg" width="520" height="789" alt="Figure 1">
+</div>
+
+<h1>
+CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS<br />
+<span style="font-size: smaller;">AND THE</span><br />
+TRICKS OF TRAPPING<br />
+<span style="font-size: smaller;">AND</span><br />
+TRAP MAKING
+</h1>
+
+<p class="center">
+CONTAINING
+</p>
+
+<p class="contain">
+COMPREHENSIVE HINTS ON CAMP SHELTER, LOG HUTS, BARK SHANTIES, WOODLAND
+BEDS AND BEDDING, BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, AND VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS
+ON TRAPPERS' FOOD, ETC. WITH EXTENDED CHAPTERS ON THE TRAPPER'S
+ART, CONTAINING ALL THE "TRICKS" AND VALUABLE BAIT RECIPES OF THE
+PROFESSION; FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE USE OF THE STEEL TRAP, AND
+FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF TRAPS OF ALL KINDS; DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS
+FOR THE CAPTURE OF ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS; VALUABLE RECIPES FOR
+THE CURING AND TANNING OF FUR SKINS, ETC., ETC.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+BY
+</p>
+
+<p class="author">
+W. HAMILTON GIBSON
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+AUTHOR OF "PASTORAL DAYS"
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+<i>ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR</i>
+</p>
+
+<p style="text-align: center; line-height: 1.5;">
+<a name="page_1"><span class="page">Page 1</span></a>
+TO<br />
+MY BELOVED FRIENDS<br />
+<span style="font-size: larger;">MR. AND MRS. F. W. GUNN,</span><br />
+KIND INSTRUCTORS, AND PARTICIPANTS<br />
+IN THE BRIGHTEST JOYS OF MY YOUTH,<br />
+THIS BOOK IS<br />
+AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY<br />
+<span style="font-weight: bold;">THE AUTHOR.</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<a name="page_3"><span class="page">Page 3</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig002.jpg" width="343" height="325" alt="Preface">
+</div>
+
+<p><img src="images/fig003.jpg" width="136" height="205" alt="O"
+ style="float: left;">f all the various subjects in the catalogue of
+sports and pastimes, there is none more sure of arousing the
+enthusiasm of our American boys generally, than that which forms the
+title of this book. Traps and Trapping, together with its kindred
+branches, always have been and always <i>will</i> be subjects of
+great interest among boys, and particularly so to those who live in
+the country.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is a fact to be regretted that we have so few examples of "Boys'
+Books" published in this country. There are a few English works
+of this character, that are very excellent as far as they go, but
+are nevertheless incomplete and unsatisfactory to the wants of
+American boys, dwelling largely on sports which are essentially
+English, and merely touching upon or utterly excluding <i>other</i>
+topics which are of the <i>utmost</i> interest to boys of this
+country. In no one of these books, so far as the author of the
+present volume knows, is the subject of Traps considered to any
+fair extent, and those examples which are given, represent only the
+most common and universal varieties already known to the general
+public.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_4"><span class="page">Page 4</span></a>
+With these facts in mind, the author has entered with zealous enthusiasm
+upon the preparation of a work which shall fill this odd and neglected
+corner in literature, and judging from the reminiscences of his
+own boyish experiences, he feels certain that in placing such a
+volume within reach of the public, he supplies a long felt want
+in the hearts of his boy-friends throughout the land.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Far be it from us in the publication of this volume, to be understood
+as encouraging the wanton destruction of poor innocent animals. Like
+all kindred sports, hunting and fishing for example, the sport of
+Trapping may be perverted and carried to a point where it becomes
+simple cruelty, as is <i>always</i> the case when pursued for the
+mere <i>excitement</i> it brings. If the poor victims are to serve
+no use after their capture, either as food, or in the furnishing
+of their plumage or skins for useful purposes, the sport becomes
+heartless cruelty, and we do not wish to be understood as encouraging
+it under any such circumstances. In its <i>right</i> sense trapping
+is a delightful, healthful, and legitimate sport, and we commend
+it to all our boy-readers.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It shall be the object of the author to produce a thoroughly
+<i>practical</i> volume, presenting as far as possible such examples
+of the trap kind as any boy, with a moderate degree of ingenuity,
+could easily construct, and furthermore to illustrate each variety
+with the utmost plainness, supplemented with the most detailed
+description.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With the exception of all "clap-trap," our volume will embrace
+nearly every known example of the various devices used for the
+capture of Bird, Beast, or Fowl, in all countries, simplifying such
+as are impracticable on account of their complicated structure,
+and modifying others to the peculiar adaptation of the American
+Trapper.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Devices, which inflict cruelty and prolonged suffering, shall,
+as far as possible, be excluded, as this is not a necessary
+qualification in any trap, and should be guarded against wherever
+possible. Following out the suggestion conveyed under the
+<a name="page_5"><span class="page">Page 5</span></a>
+title of "The Trapper," we shall present full and ample directions
+for baiting traps, selections of ground for setting, and other
+hints concerning the trapping of all our principal game and wild
+animals, valuable either as food or for their fur. In short, our
+book shall form a complete trapper's guide, embracing all necessary
+information on the subject, anticipating every want, and furnishing
+the most complete and fully illustrated volume on this subject
+ever presented to the public. In vain did the author of this work,
+in his younger days, search the book stores and libraries in the
+hopes of finding such a book, and many are the traps and snares
+which necessity forced him to invent and construct for himself, for
+want of just such a volume. Several of these original inventions
+will appear in the present work for the first time in book form,
+and the author can vouch for their excellence, and he might almost
+say, their infallibility, for in their perfect state he has never
+yet found them to "miss" in a single instance.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As the writer's mind wanders back to his boyish days, there is
+one autumn in particular which shines out above all the rest; and
+that was when his traps were first set and were the chief source
+of his enjoyment. The adventurous excitement which sped him on in
+those daily tramps through the woods, and the buoyant, exhilarating
+effect of the exercise can be realized only by those who have had the
+same experience. The hope of success, the fears of disappointment,
+the continual suspense and wonder which fill the mind of the young
+trapper, all combine to invest this sport with a charm known to no
+other. Trapping does not consist merely in the manufacture and setting
+of the various traps. The study of the habits and peculiarities of
+the different game&mdash;here becomes a matter of great importance;
+and the study of natural history under these circumstances affords
+a continual source of pleasure and profit.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Among the most useful, although the most cruel, of inventions used
+by the professional trapper are the steel traps; so much so that
+the author would gladly omit them. But as they
+<a name="page_6"><span class="page">Page 6</span></a>
+are of such unfailing action, of such universal efficacy, and in many
+cases are the only ones that can be used, any book on trapping would
+certainly be incomplete without them. The scope of our volume not only
+embraces the arts of trapping and trap-making, but extends further into
+the subject of the wild life of a trapping campaign,&mdash;containing
+full directions for building log cabins, and shanties; boats and
+canoes; hints on food and cooking utensils; also full directions
+for the curing and tanning of fur skins,&mdash;in short, a complete
+repository of all useful information pertaining to the life and
+wants of a professional trapper.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the preparation of the work no pains have been spared to insure
+clearness in general directions, and every point which would be
+likely to puzzle the reader has been specially covered by separate
+illustration. In this particular it stands unique in the list of
+boys' books. Every difficulty has been anticipated, and in every
+instance the illustrations will be found thoroughly comprehensive
+and complete. That the care and thoroughness which has been displayed
+throughout the work, and to which its pages will bear witness,
+may meet with the appreciation and enthusiastic approval of every
+boy-reader throughout the land, is the most earnest hope of
+</p>
+
+<p class="right">
+THE AUTHOR.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig004.jpg" width="290" height="152" alt="Figure 4">
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<a name="page_iii"><span class="page">Page iii</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig005.jpg" width="337" height="407" alt="CONTENTS">
+</div>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="#page_17">BOOK I.</a></p>
+
+<p class="center">TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.</p>
+
+<p class="content">
+Introduction.&mdash;THE DEAD FALL.&mdash;Honey as Bait for
+Bears.&mdash;THE GUN TRAP.&mdash;Peculiar Habits of the
+Puma.&mdash;"Baiting" for the Puma.&mdash;Caution required in Setting
+the Gun Trap.&mdash;Several Guns used.&mdash;Different Modes of
+Setting.&mdash;Various animals to which the Gun Trap is
+adapted.&mdash;THE BOW TRAP.&mdash;Vane and Barb for Arrows.&mdash;Best
+Wood for Bow.&mdash;A Second Example of Bow Trap.&mdash;Arrows Barbed
+and Poisoned.&mdash;THE DOWN FALL; or Hippopotamus Trap.&mdash;The
+terrible Harpoon used by the African Trapper.&mdash;Different Modes
+of Setting the Down Fall.&mdash;Modification of the Down Fall for
+small animals.&mdash;THE BEAR TRAP.&mdash;Various Methods of
+Setting.&mdash;Honey as Bait for Bear.&mdash;Bait for Puma.&mdash;THE
+PITFALL.&mdash;Use of the Trap in Asia as a means of defence against
+the Tiger.&mdash;Disposition of the Bait.&mdash;Wonderful agility
+of the Puma.&mdash;Niceties required in the construction of the
+Pitfall.&mdash;THE LOG COOP TRAP.&mdash;Various animals for which
+it is adapted.&mdash;Different Modes of Setting.&mdash;THE CORRALL
+OR HOPO of Africa.&mdash;Its Construction and Appalling
+Effects.&mdash;THE NET TRAP.&mdash;Its Use in the Capture of the
+Lion and the Tiger.&mdash;American animals to which it may be
+adapted.&mdash;Two Methods of Setting.&mdash;BIRD LIME.&mdash;Its
+Use for the Capture of the Lion and Tiger.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+<a name="page_iv"><span class="page">Page iv</span></a>
+<a href="#page_39">BOOK II.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS.</p>
+
+<p class="content">
+General Remarks.&mdash;Requisite Materials for Snaring.&mdash;THE
+QUAIL SNARE.&mdash;"Sucker Wire" Nooses.&mdash;Six Quail caught at
+a time.&mdash;HOOP NOOSES.&mdash;HORSE HAIR NOOSES.&mdash;HEDGE
+NOOSES.&mdash;Peculiarities of the Grouse.&mdash;Selection of
+Ground.&mdash;THE TRIANGLE TREE SNARE.&mdash;A Hawk captured by the
+device.&mdash;The Wire Noose, as arranged for the capture of the
+Woodchuck, Muskrat, and House Rat.&mdash;THE TWITCH-UP.&mdash;Selection
+of Ground for Setting.&mdash;Various Modes of Constructing the
+Traps.&mdash;THE POACHERS' SNARE.&mdash;Its portability.&mdash;THE
+PORTABLE SNARE.&mdash;Its Peculiar Advantages.&mdash;The "Simplest"
+Snare.&mdash;The valuable principle on which it is
+Constructed.&mdash;Its Portability.&mdash;Various Adaptations of
+the Principle.&mdash;THE QUAIL SNARE.&mdash;Its ample capabilities
+of Capture.&mdash;Peculiarities of the Quail.&mdash;Successful
+Baits.&mdash;THE BOX SNARE.&mdash;Modification in a very small
+scale.&mdash;THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.&mdash;The Animals for which
+it is Adapted.&mdash;GROUND SNARES.&mdash;THE OLD-FASHIONED
+SPINGLE.&mdash;THE IMPROVED SPINGLE.&mdash;Objections to Ground
+Snares.&mdash;THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.&mdash;THE PLATFORM
+SNARE.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="#page_65">BOOK III.</a></p>
+
+<p class="center">TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.</p>
+
+<p class="content">
+THE SIEVE TRAP.&mdash;THE BRICK TRAP.&mdash;THE COOP TRAP&mdash;Improved
+Method of Setting.&mdash;Defects of the old style.&mdash;THE BAT
+FOWLING NET.&mdash;Its Use in England.&mdash;How the Dark Lantern
+is Used by Bird Catchers.&mdash;THE CLAP NET.&mdash;Its Extensive
+Use in Foreign Countries.&mdash;Decoy Birds.&mdash;The "Bird Whistle"
+used in place of decoy.&mdash;Wonderful Skill attained in the Use of
+the Bird Whistle.&mdash;Selection of Trapping Ground.&mdash;THE BIRD
+WHISTLE Described.&mdash;Its Use and Marvelous Capabilities.&mdash;THE
+WILD GOOSE TRAP.&mdash;Its Extensive Use in the Northern Cold Regions
+for the Capture of the Goose and Ptarmigan.&mdash;Tame Goose Used as
+Decoys.&mdash;Gravel as Bait.&mdash;THE TRAP CAGE.&mdash;A Favorite
+Trap among Bird Catchers.&mdash;Call Birds.&mdash;THE SPRING NET
+TRAP.&mdash;Rubber Elastic as Spring Power.&mdash;A SIMPLER NET
+TRAP.&mdash;Common Faults in many Bird Traps.&mdash;Complicated
+Construction as Unnecessary Feature.&mdash;Requisites of a good
+Bird Trap.&mdash;Hints on Simple Mechanism.&mdash;Different Modes
+of Constructing Hinge.&mdash;Hoop Iron Used as Spring
+Power.&mdash;Manner of Tempering Spring.&mdash;THE UPRIGHT NET
+TRAP.&mdash;A Second Method of Constructing Platform.&mdash;THE
+BOX OWL TRAP.&mdash;Ventilation a Desirable Feature in all Box
+Traps.&mdash;Tin Catch for Securing Cover in Place.&mdash;Peculiar Mode
+of Baiting for Birds.&mdash;Modification of Perch.&mdash;Baiting for the
+Owl.&mdash;Locality for Setting.&mdash;The Owl in Captivity.&mdash;Its
+Food.&mdash;Hints on the Care of the Bird.&mdash;THE BOX BIRD
+TRAP.&mdash;Cigar Box Used as a Trap.&mdash;THE PENDANT BOX
+TRAP.&mdash;Ventilation.&mdash;Simple Mechanism.&mdash;Care in
+Construction of Bearings.&mdash;THE HAWK TRAP.&mdash;A "Yankee"
+Invention.&mdash;Stiff-Pointed Wires Effectually Use in the Capture
+of the Hawk.&mdash;Owl also Captured by the Same Device.&mdash;THE WILD
+DUCK NET.&mdash;Its Use in Chesapeake Bay.&mdash;Manner of Constructing
+the Net.&mdash;Decoy Ducks.&mdash;Bait for the Ducks.&mdash;THE HOOK
+TRAP.&mdash;Its cruel Mode of Capture.&mdash;Peculiar Bait for
+Ducks.&mdash;THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.&mdash;Its Successful Use in the
+Capture of the Crow.&mdash;Shrewdness of the Crow.&mdash;Strange antics
+of a Crow when Captured in the Trap.&mdash;Bird Lime the Secret of its
+Success.&mdash;Wonderful Tenacity of the Cap.&mdash;Different Modes
+of Setting.&mdash;BIRD LIME Described.&mdash;Its astonishing "Sticky"
+Qualities.&mdash;The Bird Lime of the Trade.&mdash;Various "Home-Made"
+Recipes.&mdash;Manner of Using Bird Lime.&mdash;Limed Twigs.&mdash;The
+Owl Used as a Decoy in connection with Bird Lime.&mdash;Bird Lime
+used in the Capture of the Humming Bird.&mdash;A Flower Converted
+into a Trap.&mdash;Masticated Wheat as Bird Lime.&mdash;Its Ready
+Removal from the Feathers.&mdash;Delicate Organization of the Humming
+Bird.&mdash;Killed by Fright.&mdash;Use of its Plumage.&mdash;Snares
+for the Humming Bird.&mdash;Blow Guns Successfully Used for its
+Capture.&mdash;Killed by Concussion.&mdash;Disabled by a Stream
+of Water.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+<a name="page_v"><span class="page">Page v</span></a>
+<a href="#page_103">BOOK IV.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.</p>
+
+<p class="content">
+THE COMMON BOX TRAP.&mdash;Two Modes of Setting.&mdash;Animals for
+which it is Adapted.&mdash;A Modification of the Trap.&mdash;ANOTHER
+BOX TRAP.&mdash;THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP.&mdash;Its Advantages.&mdash;THE
+DOUBLE ENDER.&mdash;A Favorite Trap in New England.&mdash;Simplicity
+of Construction.&mdash;The Rabbit's Fondness for Salt.&mdash;Its
+Use as a Bait.&mdash;THE SELF SETTING TRAP.&mdash;Animals for which
+it is adapted.&mdash;THE DEAD FALL.&mdash;Various Methods of
+Construction.&mdash;Animals for which it is usually
+Set.&mdash;Remarkable Cunning of some Animals.&mdash;The Precautions
+which it Necessitates.&mdash;Bait for the Muskrat.&mdash;Various
+Baits for the Mink.&mdash;Skunk Baits.&mdash;A Fox Entrapped by
+a Dead Fall.&mdash;Slight Modification in the Arrangement of
+Pieces.&mdash;Live Duck used as Bait.&mdash;Another Arrangement
+for the Dead Fall.&mdash;Trap Sprung by the Foot of the
+Animal.&mdash;THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP.&mdash;Applied to the Dead
+Fall.&mdash;THE GAROTTE.&mdash;Its Singular Mode of Capture.&mdash;Its
+Common Victims.&mdash;THE BOW TRAP.&mdash;An oddity of the Trap
+Kind.&mdash;Its Singular mechanism.&mdash;THE MOLE TRAP.&mdash;A
+Much-needed Contrivance.&mdash;Subterranean Mode of Setting.&mdash;Its
+Unfailing Success.&mdash;A FISH TRAP.&mdash;A Section of Stove
+Pipe used as a Trap.&mdash;Its Various Victims.&mdash;Adjustment
+of the Bait.&mdash;Curious Mode of Capture.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="#page_125">BOOK V.</a></p>
+
+<p class="center">HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.</p>
+
+<p class="content">
+A Chapter Dedicated to Pestered Housekeepers.&mdash;The Domestic Cat
+as a Household Trap.&mdash;The Rat.&mdash;Its Proverbial Shrewdness
+and Cunning.&mdash;THE BARREL TRAP.&mdash;Its unlimited Capabilities
+of Capture&mdash;Other Advantages.&mdash;"Baiting" for Rats.&mdash;A
+Second Form of Barrel Trap.&mdash;Various other Devices adapted
+to the capture of the Rat.&mdash;The Steel Trap.&mdash;Hints on
+Setting.&mdash;Necessary Precautions.&mdash;THE BOX DEAD FALL.&mdash;THE
+BOARD FLAP.&mdash;THE BOX PIT FALL.&mdash;Animals for which it may
+be set.&mdash;Its Extensive Capabilities of Capture.&mdash;Its
+Self-Setting Qualities.&mdash;The principle Utilized for the Capture
+of the Muskrat.&mdash;THE CAGE TRAP.&mdash;THE JAR TRAP.&mdash;A
+Preserve Jar Converted into a Mouse Trap.&mdash;Its Complete
+Success.&mdash;BOWL TRAPS.&mdash;Two Methods.&mdash;FLY
+PAPER.&mdash;Recipe for Making.&mdash;FLY TRAP.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="#page_137">BOOK VI.</a></p>
+
+<p class="center">STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.</p>
+
+<p class="content">
+General Remarks.&mdash;Advantages of the Steel Trap.&mdash;Its
+extensive use in the business of Trapping.&mdash;Hints on the Selection
+of Traps.&mdash;REQUISITES OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.&mdash;The Newhouse
+Trap.&mdash;Various sizes.&mdash;Rat Trap.&mdash;Muskrat
+Trap.&mdash;Mink Trap.&mdash;Fox Trap.&mdash;Otter Trap.&mdash;Beaver
+Trap.&mdash;"Great Bear Tamer."&mdash;Small Bear Trap.&mdash;HINTS
+ON BAITING THE STEEL TRAP.&mdash;The Staked Pen.&mdash;Old Method
+of Baiting.&mdash;Its Objections.&mdash;Advantages of the New
+Method.&mdash;THE SPRING POLE.&mdash;Its Service to the
+Trapper.&mdash;THE SLIDING POLE.&mdash;Advantages of its Use in
+the Capture of Aquatic Animals.&mdash;THE CLOG.&mdash;Objections
+against Securing the Steel Trap to a Stake.&mdash;Method of Attaching
+the Clog.&mdash;THE GRAPPLING IRON.&mdash;THE SEASON FOR
+TRAPPING.&mdash;Best condition for Furs.&mdash;THE ART OF
+TRAPPING.&mdash;Antiquity of the Sport.&mdash;Necessary Qualifications
+for Successful Trapping.&mdash;The Study of Natural History a source
+of pleasure and profit.&mdash;The Professional Trapper's most serious
+<a name="page_vi"><span class="page">Page vi</span></a>
+Obstacles.&mdash;Marvellous Cunning of many Animals.&mdash;Necessity
+of the Study of their Habits.&mdash;"Practical Natural
+History."&mdash;Trapping Without Bait.&mdash;Run-ways or
+By-paths.&mdash;How Utilized by the Trapper.&mdash;How
+Detected.&mdash;Favorable Localities for the Setting of the Steel
+Trap.&mdash;Natural Advantages.&mdash;Entrapping animals through their
+Sense of Smell.&mdash;Remarkable Power of Scent Baits.&mdash;Their great
+value in the Capture of the Beaver.&mdash;Caution in Handling the Steel
+Trap.&mdash;Effect of the Touch of the Hand.&mdash;Buckskin Gloves a
+Necessary Requisite.&mdash;MEDICINES, OR SCENT BAITS.&mdash;Their
+Great Importance in the Art of Trapping.&mdash;CASTOREUM OR
+BARKSTONE.&mdash;How Obtained.&mdash;Castoreum Composition.&mdash;Recipe
+for Making.&mdash;How Used.&mdash;MUSK&mdash;ASSAF&OElig;TIDA.&mdash;OIL
+OF RHODIUM.&mdash;FISH OIL.&mdash;Its General Use in the Capture of
+Aquatic Animals.&mdash;Valuable Recipe for its Manufacture.&mdash;OIL
+OF SKUNK.&mdash;How Obtained.&mdash;How Eradicated from Hands or
+Clothing.&mdash;OIL OF AMBER.&mdash;OIL OF AMBERGRIS.&mdash;OIL OF
+ANISE.&mdash;Its General Use as a "Universal Medicine."&mdash;SWEET
+FENNEL.&mdash;CUMMIN&mdash;FENUGREEK&mdash; LAVENDER&mdash;COMPOUND
+MEDICINE&mdash;THE TRAIL&mdash;Its Object and Value.&mdash;Various
+Modes of Making.&mdash;HOW TO TRAP.&mdash;General Remarks.&mdash;THE
+FOX.&mdash;Its Scientific Classification.&mdash;The Various American
+Species.&mdash;The Red Fox.&mdash;The Cross Fox.&mdash;Why so
+Named.&mdash;The Black or Silver Fox.&mdash;The Great Value of its
+Fur.&mdash;The Prairie Fox.&mdash;The Kit or Swift Fox.&mdash;The
+Gray Fox.&mdash;Similarity in the General Characteristics of the
+Various Species.&mdash;Food of the Fox.&mdash;Its Home.&mdash;Its
+consummate Craft.&mdash;Instances of its Cunning.&mdash;Baffling
+the Hounds.&mdash;How to Trap the Fox.&mdash;Preparation of the
+Trap.&mdash;Adverse Effect of Human Scent.&mdash;Necessity of handling
+Trap with Gloves.&mdash;The "Bed."&mdash;"Baiting" the Bed
+Necessary.&mdash;Precautions in Setting the Trap.&mdash;The "Tricks
+of the Trapper" Illustrated.&mdash;How to Proceed in case of
+Non-Success.&mdash;The Scent-Baits Utilized.&mdash;Various Modes
+of Setting the Trap.&mdash;The Baits Commonly Used.&mdash;The Dead
+Fall as a Means of Capture.&mdash;Common Mode of Skinning the
+Fox.&mdash;Directions for Stretching Skin.&mdash;THE WOLF.&mdash;The
+Various Species.&mdash;Fierce Characteristics of the Wolf.&mdash;Its
+Terrible Inroads among Herds and Flocks.&mdash;The Gray Wolf.&mdash;The
+Coyote or Common Prairie Wolf.&mdash;The Texan Wolf.&mdash;Home of the
+Wolf.&mdash;Number of Young.&mdash;Cunning of the Wolf.&mdash;Caution
+Required in Trapping.&mdash;How to Trap the Wolf.&mdash;Preparation of
+Trap.&mdash;Various Ways of Setting the Trap.&mdash;Use of the Trail and
+Scent Baits.&mdash;"Playing Possum."&mdash;The Dead Fall and "Twitch-up"
+as Wolf Traps.&mdash;Directions for Skinning the Wolf and Stretching the
+Pelt.&mdash;THE PUMA.&mdash;Its Scientific Classification.&mdash;Its
+Life and Habits.&mdash;Its Wonderful Agility.&mdash;Its Skill as an
+Angler.&mdash;Its Stealth.&mdash;Various Traps Used in the Capture
+of the Puma.&mdash;The Gun Trap.&mdash;The Bow Trap.&mdash;The
+Dead Fall.&mdash;Trap for Taking the Animal Alive.&mdash;Log Coop
+Trap.&mdash;The Pit Fall.&mdash;Bait for the Puma.&mdash;The Steel
+Trap.&mdash;Common Mode of Setting.&mdash;Selection of Locality
+for Trapping.&mdash;How to Skin the Puma.&mdash;Directions for
+Stretching the Pelt.&mdash;THE CANADA LYNX.&mdash;Description of
+the Animal.&mdash;Its Life and Habits.&mdash;Its Food.&mdash;Its
+Peculiar Appearance when Running.&mdash;Easily Killed.&mdash;The
+Dead Fall as a Lynx Trap.&mdash;Peculiar Manner of Construction
+for the Purpose.&mdash;The Gun Trap.&mdash;The Bow Trap.&mdash;The
+Twitch-up.&mdash;Young of the Lynx.&mdash;Value of its Fur.&mdash;The
+Steel Trap.&mdash;Various Methods of Setting.&mdash;Directions
+for Skinning the Animal and Stretching the Pelt.&mdash;THE WILD
+CAT.&mdash;Its Resemblance to the Domestic Species.&mdash;Its Strange
+Appetite.&mdash;Its Home.&mdash;Number of Young.&mdash;Haunts of the
+Wild Cat.&mdash;Its Nocturnal Marauding expeditions.&mdash;Its Lack
+of Cunning.&mdash;How to Trap the Wild Cat.&mdash;An Entire Colony
+Captured.&mdash;Ferocity of the Wild Cat.&mdash;The Twitch-up.&mdash;Its
+Common Use in the Capture of the Wild Cat.&mdash;Other Successful
+Traps.&mdash;Various Baits for the Wild Cat.&mdash;Directions for
+Skinning the Animal, and Stretching the Pelt.&mdash;THE BEAR.&mdash;The
+Various American Species.&mdash;The Grizzly.&mdash;Its Enormous
+Size and Power.&mdash;Its Terrible Fury.&mdash;Description of the
+Animal.&mdash;Food of the Grizzly.&mdash;The Black Bear or
+Musquaw.&mdash;Its General Description.&mdash;Bear Hunting.&mdash;Danger
+of the Sport.&mdash;Food of the Bear.&mdash;Its Fondness for
+Pigs.&mdash;Honey Its Special Delight.&mdash;The Cubs.&mdash;The
+Flesh of the Bear as Food.&mdash;"Bears' Grease."&mdash;Hibernation
+of the Bear.&mdash;Traps for the Bear.&mdash;The Dead
+<a name="page_vii"><span class="page">Page vii</span></a>
+Fall.&mdash;Pit-fall.&mdash;Giant Coop.&mdash;Gun Trap.&mdash;The
+Steel Trap.&mdash;The Clog and Grappling-Iron.&mdash;Their
+Advantages.&mdash;How to Trap the Bear.&mdash;Various Methods of
+Adjusting Traps.&mdash;Natural Advantages.&mdash;Honey as
+Bait.&mdash;Other Baits.&mdash;Scent Baits.&mdash;Skinning the
+Bear.&mdash;Directions for Stretching the Pelt.&mdash;THE
+RACCOON.&mdash;Classification&mdash;Cunning and Stealth of the
+Animal.&mdash;Characteristic Features.&mdash;The "Coon Chase."&mdash;How
+the Raccoon is Hunted.&mdash;The "Tree'd Coon."&mdash;Varied
+Accomplishments of the Raccoon.&mdash;Its Home and Family.&mdash;The
+"Coon" as a Pet.&mdash;Its Cunning Ways.&mdash;Its Extensive Bill
+of Fare.&mdash;Life and Habits of the Raccoon.&mdash;Remarkable
+Imprint of its Paw.&mdash;Season for Trapping the Coon.&mdash;How
+to Trap the Coon.&mdash;Various Modes of Setting the Trap.&mdash;Use
+of the "medicines" or "Scent Baits."&mdash;Other Traps for the
+Animal.&mdash;Directions for Removing the Skin, and Stretching the
+Pelt.&mdash;THE BADGER.&mdash;Its Peculiar Markings.&mdash;Use of
+the Hair.&mdash;Nest of the Badger.&mdash;Number of Young.&mdash;Food
+of the Animal.&mdash;Its Remarkable Fondness for Honey.&mdash;Its
+Cunning.&mdash;Remarkable Instincts.&mdash;Its Shrewdness.&mdash;How
+to Trap the Badger.&mdash;Various Baits.&mdash;Use of
+"Medicine."&mdash;Capture of the Animal by Flooding its
+Burrow.&mdash;How to Skin the Badger.&mdash;Directions for Stretching
+the Pelt.&mdash;THE BEAVER.&mdash;Description of the Animal.&mdash;Its
+Nature and Habits.&mdash;The Beaver Village.&mdash;The "Lodges," or
+Beaver Houses.&mdash;Remarkable Construction of the Huts.&mdash;The
+Dam of the Beaver.&mdash;Wonderful Skill shown in its
+Construction.&mdash;Nocturnal Habits of the Beaver.&mdash;Remarkable
+Engineering Instincts of the Animal.&mdash;How the Beaver Cuts
+Timber.&mdash;How the Dam is Constructed.&mdash;The Formation of
+"Reefs."&mdash;The Tail of the Beaver as a Means of
+Transportation.&mdash;Subterranean Passage to the Huts.&mdash;How
+Beavers are Hunted.&mdash;Young of the Beaver.&mdash;How to Trap
+the Beaver.&mdash;The Necessary Precautions.&mdash;Castoreum or
+Bark Stone.&mdash;Its Great Value in the Capture of the
+Beaver.&mdash;Various Methods of Setting the Trap.&mdash;How to
+Apply the Castoreum.&mdash;Use of the Sliding Pole.&mdash;Food of
+the Beaver.&mdash;Directions for Skinning the Animal and Stretching
+the Pelt.&mdash;THE MUSK-RAT.&mdash;General Description of the
+Animal.&mdash;Its Beaver-like Huts.&mdash;Its Nocturnal
+Habits.&mdash;Its Food.&mdash;The Flesh of the Musk-rat as an Article
+of Diet.&mdash;Description of the Hut.&mdash;Extensive Family of
+the Musk-Rat.&mdash;Its Home.&mdash;How the Musk-Rat swims beneath
+Unbroken Ice.&mdash;How it is Killed by being Driven Away from its
+Breath.&mdash;Spearing the Musk-Rat.&mdash;Construction of the
+Spear.&mdash;How to Trap the Musk-Rat.&mdash;Use of the Sliding
+Pole.&mdash;Various Modes of Setting Trap.&mdash;The Spring
+Pole.&mdash;Scent Baits.&mdash;Various Devices for Capturing the
+Musk-Rat.&mdash;The Barrel-Trap.&mdash;Remarkable Success of the
+Trap.&mdash;The Trail.&mdash;Skinning the Musk-Rat.&mdash;How to
+Stretch the Pelt.&mdash;THE OTTER.&mdash;Description of the
+Animal.&mdash;Beauty of its Fur.&mdash;How the "Otter Fur" of Fashion
+is Prepared.&mdash;Food of the Otter.&mdash;Its Natural Endowments
+for Swimming.&mdash;Habitation of the Otter.&mdash;Its Nest and
+Young.&mdash;The Track or "Seal" of the animal.&mdash;How the Otter
+is Hunted.&mdash;Its Fierceness when Attacked.&mdash;The Otter
+as a Pet.&mdash;Fishing for its Master.&mdash;The Otter
+"Slide."&mdash;How Utilized by the Trapper.&mdash;Playfulness of
+the Otter.&mdash;How the Animal is Trapped.&mdash;Various Modes
+of Setting Trap.&mdash;The Sliding Pole.&mdash;The Spring
+Pole.&mdash;Scent Baits.&mdash;How Applied.&mdash;Necessary
+Precautions.&mdash;How to Skin the Otter.&mdash;Directions for
+Stretching the Pelt.&mdash;THE MINK.&mdash;Its Form and
+Color.&mdash;Value of the Fur.&mdash;Habits of the Animal.&mdash;Its
+Diet.&mdash;Its Perpetual Greed.&mdash;Ease with which it may be
+Trapped.&mdash;Habitation of the Mink.&mdash;Its Nest and
+Young.&mdash;How to Trap the Mink.&mdash;Various Methods of Setting the
+Trap.&mdash;Baits.&mdash;The Sliding Pole.&mdash;"Medicine."&mdash;The
+Runways of the Mink.&mdash;How Utilized in Trapping.&mdash;The
+Trail.&mdash;Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Mink.&mdash;How
+to Skin the Animal.&mdash;THE PINE MARTEN.&mdash;Description of
+the Animal.&mdash;Its Natural Characteristics.&mdash;Its Nocturnal
+Habits.&mdash;Its Wonderful Stealth and Activity.&mdash;Its "Bill
+of Fare."&mdash;Its Strange mode of Seizing Prey.&mdash;The Marten
+as a Pet.&mdash;Its Agreeable Odor.&mdash;Various Traps Used in
+the Capture of the Marten.&mdash;Baits for the Marten.&mdash;The
+Steel Trap.&mdash;Several Modes of Setting.&mdash;Directions for
+Skinning the Animal.&mdash;THE FISHER.&mdash;Its Form and
+Color.&mdash;Its Habitation and Young.&mdash;How the Animal is
+Trapped.&mdash;Various Methods.&mdash;The Spring Pole.&mdash;Baits
+for the Fisher.&mdash;Principal Devices Used in its Capture.&mdash;The
+Skin.&mdash;How
+<a name="page_viii"><span class="page">Page viii</span></a>
+Removed and Stretched.&mdash;THE SKUNK.&mdash;Its Fetid
+Stench.&mdash;Origin of the Odor.&mdash;Its Effect on Man and
+Beast.&mdash;"Premonitory Symptoms" of Attack.&mdash;Acrid Qualities
+of the Secretion.&mdash;Its Terrible Effect on the
+Eyes.&mdash;Interesting Adventure with a Skunk.&mdash;"Appearances
+are often Deceitful."&mdash;The Skunk as a Pet.&mdash;Color of
+the Animal.&mdash;Habits of the Animal.&mdash;Its Food.&mdash;Its
+Young.&mdash;"Alaska Sable."&mdash;How to Trap the Skunk.&mdash;Various
+Traps Used.&mdash;The Steel Trap.&mdash;Different Modes of
+Setting.&mdash;Baits.&mdash;The Dead Fall.&mdash;Modifications in its
+Construction.&mdash;The Twitch-up.&mdash;Its Peculiar Advantages for the
+Capture of the Skunk.&mdash;Chloride of Lime as Antidote.&mdash;Method
+of Eradicating the Odor from the Clothing.&mdash;Directions for Removing
+and Stretching the Skin.&mdash;THE WOLVERINE.&mdash;Its Desperate
+Fierceness and voracity.&mdash;Its General Characteristics.&mdash;Its
+Form and Color.&mdash;Food of the Wolverine.&mdash;Its Trap-Robbing
+Propensities.&mdash;How to Trap the Wolverine.&mdash;Baits.&mdash;Use
+of the "Medicine."&mdash;The Gun Trap and Dead Fall.&mdash;The Steel
+Trap.&mdash;Various Modes of Setting.&mdash;Home and Young of the
+Animal.&mdash;How the Skin should be Removed and Stretched.&mdash;THE
+OPOSSUM.&mdash;Description of the Animal.&mdash;Its Nature and
+Habits.&mdash;Its Home.&mdash;Remarkable Mode of Carrying its
+Young.&mdash;Nocturnal Habits of the Animal.&mdash;Its Food.&mdash;Its
+Especial Fondness for Persimmons.&mdash;Its Remarkable Tenacity
+as a Climber.&mdash;"Playing Possum."&mdash;How the Opossum is
+Hunted.&mdash;How Trapped.&mdash;Various Devices Used in its
+Capture.&mdash;Scent Baits.&mdash;How the Skin is Removed and
+Stretched.&mdash;THE RABBIT.&mdash;Wide-spread Distribution of the
+Various Species.&mdash;Their Remarkable Powers of Speed.&mdash;Nest
+of the Rabbit.&mdash;Its Prolific Offspring.&mdash;Food of the
+Rabbit.&mdash;Its Enemies.&mdash;Various Devices Used in Trapping
+the Animal.&mdash;Necessary Precautions in Skinning the
+Rabbit.&mdash;THE WOODCHUCK.&mdash;Description of the Animal.&mdash;Its
+Habits.&mdash;Its Burrows.&mdash;Its Food.&mdash;Toughness of the
+Skin.&mdash;Its Use.&mdash;Nest of the Animal.&mdash;The Woodchuck
+as Food.&mdash;How the Animal is Trapped.&mdash;The Steel
+Trap.&mdash;The Spring Pole.&mdash;The Twitch-up.&mdash;How the
+Woodchuck is "Drowned Out."&mdash;The Turtle as a Ferret.&mdash;Smoking
+the Burrows.&mdash;Directions for Skinning the Animal.&mdash;THE
+GOPHER.&mdash;Its Burrows.&mdash;Its Food.&mdash;Remarkable Cheek
+Pouches of the Animal.&mdash;Their Use.&mdash;How to Trap the
+Animal.&mdash;How the Skin is Removed.&mdash;THE MOLE.&mdash;Its Varied
+Accomplishments.&mdash;Its Remarkable Dwellings.&mdash;Complicated
+Structure of the Habitation.&mdash;The Fury and Voracity of the
+Mole.&mdash;Peculiarities of Its Fur.&mdash;A Waistcoat of Mole
+Skins.&mdash;Odor of the Mole.&mdash;Mole Traps.&mdash;Various Species
+of the Mole.&mdash;The Mole of the Cape of Good Hope.&mdash;Marvellous
+Beauty of Its Fur.&mdash;SQUIRRELS.&mdash;Their General Peculiarities
+of Form and Habit.&mdash;Their Food.&mdash;Their Provident
+Instincts.&mdash;"Nutting" in Midwinter.&mdash;The Nest of the
+Squirrel.&mdash;Burrowing Squirrels.&mdash;The Various American
+Species.&mdash;The Grey Squirrel.&mdash;The Chipmunk.&mdash;The
+Chickaree.&mdash;The Flying Squirrel, &amp;c.&mdash;How Squirrels are
+Trapped.&mdash;Various Traps Used in their Capture.&mdash;Removal
+of Skin.&mdash;THE DEER.&mdash;Difficulty of Hunting the Animal in
+Dry Seasons.&mdash;Various American Species of the Deer.&mdash;How
+the Deer is Trapped.&mdash;Peculiar Construction of the
+Trap.&mdash;Scent Bait for the Deer.&mdash;Various Methods of Setting
+the Trap.&mdash;Violence of the Deer when Trapped.&mdash;The
+Clog.&mdash;Dead Falls.&mdash;Food of the Deer.&mdash;Deer
+"Yards."&mdash;Natural Enemies of the Deer.&mdash;How the Deer
+is Hunted.&mdash;"Still Hunting."&mdash;The Deer's Acute Sense of
+Smell.&mdash;How to Detect the Direction of the Wind.&mdash;Natural
+Habits of the Deer.&mdash;"Night Hunting."&mdash;Luminosity of
+the Eyes of the Deer at Night.&mdash;Hunting the deer with
+dogs.&mdash;"Deer Licks."&mdash;How Salt is used in Hunting the
+Deer.&mdash;Hunting from a Scaffolding.&mdash;Peculiar Sight of
+the Deer.&mdash;"Salt Licks" used in Night Hunting.&mdash;Head
+Lantern.&mdash;How made.&mdash;How used.&mdash;The fiery Eyes of
+the Deer.&mdash;"Fox Fire" or Phosphorescent wood.&mdash;How used
+by the Hunter.&mdash;Seasons for Deer Hunting.&mdash;How to skin the
+Deer.&mdash;THE MOOSE.&mdash;Description of the animal.&mdash;Immense
+size of its Horns.&mdash;Moose yards.&mdash;Hunted on Snow
+shoes.&mdash;The dangers of Moose Hunting.&mdash;Exquisite sense of
+Smell.&mdash;How the Moose is Trapped.&mdash;Directions for removing
+the Skin of the Animal.&mdash;ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.&mdash;Description
+of the Animal.&mdash;Its enormous Horns.&mdash;Habits of the
+creature.&mdash;Its flesh as Food.&mdash;How the Animal is
+Trapped.&mdash;THE BUFFALO.&mdash;Its Habits.&mdash;Its
+Food.&mdash;Buffalo-grass.&mdash;How the Animal is Hunted and
+Trapped.&mdash;Buffalo
+<a name="page_ix"><span class="page">Page ix</span></a>
+flesh as Food.&mdash;Buffalo skins.&mdash;THE PRONG HORN
+ANTELOPE.&mdash;Description of the Animal.&mdash;Peculiarity of
+Horn.&mdash;How the creature is Hunted and Destroyed by the
+Indians.&mdash;Remarkable sense of Smell of the Animal.&mdash;Its
+Beauty and grace.&mdash;Flesh of the Antelope a Food.&mdash;How
+the Animal is Trapped.&mdash;Various Traps used in their
+Capture.&mdash;The Dead-fall.&mdash;Pit-fall.&mdash;How to remove
+the Hide of the Animal.&mdash;SHOOTING AND POISONING.&mdash;"Shot
+furs."&mdash;"Poisoned furs."&mdash;"Trapped furs."&mdash;Their
+relative Value in the Fur Market.&mdash;Effect of grazing shot
+on fur.&mdash;Effect of Poison on Fur.&mdash;Remarks on the use
+of Poison.&mdash;Strychnine.&mdash;Poisoning Wolves.&mdash;Recipe
+for mixing the Poison.&mdash;Poisoning the Bear.&mdash;How the
+Dose is Prepared.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="#page_225">BOOK VII.</a></p>
+
+<p class="center">CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS.</p>
+
+<p class="content">
+Introductory Remarks.&mdash;"Amateur Trapping."&mdash;PLAN OF
+CAMPAIGN.&mdash;Selection of Trapping-ground.&mdash;Advantages
+of a Watered District.&mdash;Labor of transportation lightened by
+Boating.&mdash;Lakes, Ponds and Streams.&mdash;The Adirondacks and
+Alleghanies.&mdash;Remarks on the "Home Shanty."&mdash;Selection
+of Site for building.&mdash;Value of a good Axe.&mdash;Remarks on
+the Bark Shanty.&mdash;Its value in case of Storms.&mdash;Wise
+fore-sight.&mdash;Remarks on the Indian Birch-bark Canoe.&mdash;Dug-out
+and Bateau.&mdash;Commencement of Trapping Season.&mdash;Advantages
+of preliminary preparation.&mdash;Extensive route of the Professional
+Trapper.&mdash;Sixty pounds of Personal Luggage.&mdash;How the traps
+and provisions are distributed among the Trapping lines.&mdash;Use
+of the "Home Shanty."&mdash;"Keeping Shanty."&mdash;Necessity of
+its being Guarded.&mdash;Wolves and Bears as thieves.&mdash;Steel
+Traps considered.&mdash;Number used in a Professional
+Campaign.&mdash;Number for an Amateur Campaign.&mdash;Their Probable
+Cost.&mdash;The average size of Trap.&mdash;Dead-falls, Twitchups,
+&amp;c., considered.&mdash;Requisite Tools for a Campaign.&mdash;A
+"House-wife" a valuable necessity.&mdash;"Cleanliness next to
+Godliness."&mdash;The Trappers' Light.&mdash;Comparative value of
+Lanterns and Candles.&mdash;The Trappers' Personal outfit.&mdash;The
+jack-knife.&mdash;The Pocket-Compass.&mdash;Necessity of preparing
+for Emergencies.&mdash;Shot guns and Rifles.&mdash;Both combined in
+the same weapon.&mdash;Oil for Fire Arms.&mdash;Fat of the Grouse
+Used on Fire Arms.&mdash;Fishing tackle.&mdash;The Trappers' portable
+stove.&mdash;The Stove versus The Open Fire.&mdash;The Trapper's
+Clothing.&mdash;The Material and Color.&mdash;Boots.&mdash;High-topped
+Boots.&mdash;Short Boots.&mdash;Their Relative
+Qualities.&mdash;Waterproof Boot Dressing.&mdash;Recipe.&mdash;The
+Trapping Season.&mdash;Hints on Trapping-lines.&mdash;The "Wheel"
+plan.&mdash;Mode of following the lines.&mdash;"Trap Robbers" or
+"Poachers."&mdash;How to guard against them.&mdash;Hiding
+furs.&mdash;How to store Traps from Season to Season.&mdash;Gnats
+and Mosquitoes.&mdash;The "Smudge."&mdash;How made.&mdash;FOOD AND
+COOKING UTENSILS.&mdash;"Roughing it."&mdash;"A chance Chip for a
+Frying Pan."&mdash;A "happy medium" between two extremes.&mdash;Cosy
+and Comfortable living on a Campaign.&mdash;Portable
+Food.&mdash;Combined Nutriment and lightness in weight to be
+desired.&mdash;The Trappers' Culinary Outfit.&mdash;Indian meal
+as Food.&mdash;The Trappers' "Staff of Life."&mdash;Wheat
+flour.&mdash;Salt Pork.&mdash;Seasoning.&mdash;Pork Fritters a
+luxury.&mdash;Cooking Utensils.&mdash;The "Telescope" drinking
+cup.&mdash;Recipe for making Pork Fritters.&mdash;"Chop Sticks"
+&agrave; la "Chinee."&mdash;A Flat Chip as a Plate.&mdash;Boiled
+Mush.&mdash;Old "Stand by."&mdash;Recipe.&mdash;Fried Mush.&mdash;Indian
+meal Cakes.&mdash;Recipe.&mdash;Johnny Cake.&mdash;Recipe.&mdash;Hoe
+Cakes.&mdash;Recipe.&mdash;Fresh fish.&mdash;How to Cook fish in
+a most Delicious manner.&mdash;Prof. Blot, and Delmonico,
+out-done.&mdash;The "NE PLUS ULTRA" of delicacies.&mdash;All the
+sweet Juices of the Fish preserved.&mdash;Disadvantages of the
+ordinary method of cooking.&mdash;Partridge, Duck, Quail, Cooked
+deliciously.&mdash;Roasting unrivalled!&mdash;Hints on
+Broiling.&mdash;An extemporized Spider or Toaster.&mdash;Roasting
+on a spit.&mdash;Venison, Bear, and Moose Meat broiled in the best
+style.&mdash;Venison cutlets.&mdash;The Camp fire.&mdash;Usual mode
+<a name="page_x"><span class="page">Page x</span></a>
+of building Fire.&mdash;How the Kettle is suspended.&mdash;"Luxuries"
+considered.&mdash;The Knapsack a desirable
+Acquisition.&mdash;Matches.&mdash;The Bottle
+Match-safe.&mdash;Waterproof Matches.&mdash;How made.&mdash;Lucifer
+Matches.&mdash;Recipe for Waterproof preparation.&mdash;The Pocket
+Sun Glass.&mdash;A necessary adjunct to a Trapper's Outfit.&mdash;Its
+Advantages in case of Emergency.&mdash;"Touch wood" or "Punk Tinder,"
+valuable in lighting fires.&mdash;How to light Fires without matches
+or Sun glass.&mdash;How to light a fire without Matches, Sun Glass,
+Powder, or Percussion Caps.&mdash;A last Resort.&mdash;Matches best
+in the long run.&mdash;The Portable Camp Stove described.&mdash;Its
+accompanying Furniture.&mdash;The Combination Camp-knife.&mdash;Hint
+on Provisions.&mdash;Potatoes as food.&mdash;Beans.&mdash;"Self
+raising" Wheat flour.&mdash;Light Bread, Biscuit and Pancakes in
+Camp.&mdash;Various accessories.&mdash;Olive Oil for purpose of
+Frying.&mdash;Pork.&mdash;Indian meal.&mdash;Crackers.&mdash;Wheaten
+Grits.&mdash;Rice and Oatmeal.&mdash;Tea and
+Coffee.&mdash;Soups.&mdash;Liebig's Extract of Beef.&mdash;Canned
+Vegetables.&mdash;Lemonade.&mdash;Waterproof bags for
+provisions.&mdash;Painted bags.&mdash;Caution!&mdash;Waterproof
+preparation.&mdash;Air-tight jars for Butter.&mdash;Knapsack or
+Shoulder Basket.&mdash;Venison as food.&mdash;To preserve the overplus
+of meat.&mdash;"Jerked Venison" Recipe and Process.&mdash;Moose and
+Bear meat and Fish, similarly prepared.&mdash;How to protect provisions
+from Wolves.&mdash;The Moufflon and Prong-horn as food.&mdash;"Small
+game," Squirrels, Rabbits, and Woodchucks.&mdash;"Skunk Meat" as a
+delicacy.&mdash;The Buffalo as food.&mdash;Grouse, the universal Food
+of Trappers and Hunters.&mdash;Various species of Grouse.&mdash;The
+Sage Cock.&mdash;The Ptarmigan.&mdash;How they are trapped by the
+Indians in the Hudson's Bay Country.&mdash;Waterfowl.&mdash;Sea
+and Inland Ducks.&mdash;Various species of Duck.&mdash;Mallard.
+&mdash;Muscovy.&mdash;Wigeon.&mdash;Merganser.&mdash;Canvass
+Back.&mdash;Teal, &amp;c.&mdash;Wild Geese.&mdash;Fish as
+food.&mdash;Angling and Spearing.&mdash;Salmon Spearing in the
+North.&mdash;Description of the Salmon Spear used by the
+Indians.&mdash;Salmon Spearing at night.&mdash;Requisites of a good
+Spearsman.&mdash;Fishing through the Ice.&mdash;Cow's udder and Hogs
+liver as Bait.&mdash;Other Baits.&mdash;Assaf&oelig;tida and Sweet
+Cicely as fish Baits.&mdash;Trout fishing with Tip-up's.&mdash;Pickerel
+fishing in Winter.&mdash;Pickerel Spearing through the Ice.&mdash;The
+Box Hut.&mdash;The "Fish Lantern" or Fish Trap.&mdash;Fish Attracted
+by light.&mdash;Light as Bait.&mdash;How the Fish Lantern is made
+and used.&mdash;THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.&mdash;Introductory
+remarks.&mdash;The Perils of a Life in the Wilderness.&mdash;A
+Shelter of some form a Necessity.&mdash;The Log Shanty.&mdash;Full
+directions for building.&mdash;Ingenious manner of constructing
+roof.&mdash;How the Chimney is built.&mdash;Spacious interior of the
+Shanty.&mdash;THE BARK SHANTY.&mdash;A Temporary structure.&mdash;Full
+directions for its construction.&mdash;Selection of building
+site.&mdash;TENTS.&mdash;Advantages of their use.&mdash;Various kinds
+of Tents.&mdash;The House Tent.&mdash;The Fly Tent.&mdash;The Shelter
+Tent.&mdash;Directions for making the Tent.&mdash;Tent Cloth.&mdash;How
+to render tents Water and Fire-resistant.&mdash;Valuable
+recipe.&mdash;BEDS AND BEDDING.&mdash;Perfect rest and comfort to
+the tired Trapper.&mdash;A portable Spring bed for the woods.&mdash;A
+Hammock bed.&mdash;Bed Clothes.&mdash;The Canton Flannel
+Bag.&mdash;Hammocks.&mdash;TENT CARPETING.&mdash;Spruce and Hemlock
+boughs as bedding.&mdash;How to cover the ground evenly.&mdash;The
+Rubber Blanket.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a href="#page_255">BOOK VIII.</a></p>
+
+<p class="center">THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.</p>
+
+<p class="content">
+Warning to the Novice.&mdash;Winged Cannibals of the Woods.&mdash;INSECT
+OINTMENTS.&mdash;Mosquitoes and Gnats.&mdash;Their aversion to
+the scent of Pennyroyal.&mdash;Pennyroyal
+Ointment.&mdash;Recipe.&mdash;Mutton tallow Ointment.&mdash;Tar
+and Sweet Oil Liniment.&mdash;Recipe.&mdash;Its effect on the
+Complexion.&mdash;Invasions of Insects by night.&mdash;Their pertinacity
+and severity.&mdash;The experience of our Adirondack guide.&mdash;The
+bloodthirsty propensities of the Mosquito admirably depicted.&mdash;The
+"Smudge" Smoke versus Insect Bites.&mdash;"Punkeys" and
+"Midgets."&mdash;Their terrible voracity.&mdash;Painful effects of
+their Bites.&mdash;Pennyroyal an effective Antidote.&mdash;Depraved
+<a name="page_xi"><span class="page">Page xi</span></a>
+appetite of the mosquito.&mdash;A Warning to the Intemperate.&mdash;Use
+and abuse of Alcohol.&mdash;A Popular error corrected.&mdash;A
+substitute for Whiskey and Brandy.&mdash;Red Pepper Tea.&mdash;Its
+great value as a remedy in Illness.&mdash;The Mosquitoes' favorite
+Victim.&mdash;Result of the bite of the insect.&mdash;The Mosquito
+Head-Net.&mdash;Directions for making the Net.&mdash;Netting attachment
+for the Hat.&mdash;Portable Sun Shade or Hat brim.&mdash;Netting
+attachment for the Hat brim.&mdash;BOAT BUILDING.&mdash;A Boat
+of some kind a necessity to the Trapper.&mdash;The "Dug-Out" or
+Log-Canoe.&mdash;Requisite Tools for its Manufacture.&mdash;Selection
+of the Log.&mdash;Directions for making the boat.&mdash;Remarkable
+thinness to which they may be reduced.&mdash;Lightness of the
+boat.&mdash;How to gauge the thickness.&mdash;How to stop
+leaks.&mdash;THE INDIAN OR BIRCH BARK CANOE.&mdash;The Indian as
+a Canoe-maker.&mdash;His remarkable skill.&mdash;Perfection of the
+Indian made Canoe.&mdash;Description of the Canoe.&mdash;Capacity of
+the various sizes.&mdash;How to construct a Bark Canoe.&mdash;Selection
+of Bark.&mdash;How to prevent Leaks.&mdash;Material used by the
+Indians in sewing the Bark.&mdash;Advantages of the Birch Bark
+Canoe.&mdash;Basswood, Hemlock, and Spruce Bark Canoes.&mdash;A
+LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT.&mdash;Selection of Boards.&mdash;Directions
+for making the Boat.&mdash;Caulking the seams.&mdash;Value of Pitch
+for waterproofing purposes.&mdash;How it should be applied.&mdash;THE
+SCOW.&mdash;How to construct the ordinary Flat-bottomed Boat.&mdash;The
+Mud-stick.&mdash;SNOW SHOES.&mdash;A necessity for winter
+travel.&mdash;The "Snow Shoe Race."&mdash;The mysteries of a Snow
+Shoe.&mdash;"Taming the Snow Shoe."&mdash;How to make the Snow
+Shoe.&mdash;Complicated Net-work.&mdash;Two methods of attaching
+the Net-work.&mdash;How the Snow Shoe is worn.&mdash;THE TOBOGGAN
+OR INDIAN SLEDGE.&mdash;Its value to the Trapper.&mdash;Winter
+Coasting.&mdash;Great sport with the Toboggan.&mdash;How to make
+a Toboggan.&mdash;Selection of Boards.&mdash;How the Sledge is
+used.&mdash;CURING SKINS.&mdash;Importance of Curing Skins
+properly.&mdash;Valuable hints on Skinning Animals.&mdash;How to
+dry Skins.&mdash;How to dress Skins for Market.&mdash;Astringent
+preparations.&mdash;Recipe.&mdash;STRETCHERS.&mdash;How skins are
+stretched.&mdash;The Board Stretcher.&mdash;How it is made and
+used.&mdash;The Wedge Stretcher.&mdash;How made and used.&mdash;The
+Bow Stretcher.&mdash;The Hoop Stretcher.&mdash;TANNING SKINS.&mdash;To
+Tan with the hair on.&mdash;Preparation of Skin for
+Tanning.&mdash;Tanning Mixture.&mdash;Recipe.&mdash;Second
+Mixture.&mdash;Recipe.&mdash;Third Mixture and Recipe.&mdash;How
+the Skin is softened and finished.&mdash;HOW TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT
+SKINS.&mdash;Preparation of Skin.&mdash;Tanning Mixtures.&mdash;Various
+Recipes.&mdash;"Fleshing."&mdash;The Fleshing-knife.&mdash;Substitute
+for the Fleshing-knife.&mdash;HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF THE BEAVER,
+OTTER, RACCOON, AND MARTEN.&mdash;Tanning Mixtures.&mdash;How to
+soften the Skin.&mdash;Simple Tanned Skin.&mdash;Recipe for removing
+the fur.&mdash;How to finish the Skin.&mdash;OBSERVATIONS ON THE
+HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.&mdash;Some bits of History in
+connection with Furs.&mdash;Ancient use of Furs.&mdash;Furs a medium
+of Exchange.&mdash;Furs and Fashion.&mdash;Extravagance in Fur
+Costume.&mdash;Choice Furs as Badges of Rank.&mdash;Their use restricted
+to Royal Families.&mdash;The Early Fur Trade of Europe.&mdash;A
+Tribute paid in Furs.&mdash;Early History of the Fur Trade in
+America.&mdash;Origin of the Hudson's Bay Company.&mdash;Hostility
+of the French Canadian Traders.&mdash;Establishment of the North
+West Company.&mdash;Competition and War.&mdash;Consolidation of
+the two Companies.&mdash;Great sales of the Hudson's Bay
+Company.&mdash;Importance of the Fur Trade.&mdash;Cities founded
+by the enterprise of the Trapper.&mdash;St. Paul.&mdash;Montreal
+and Mackinaw.&mdash;Fortunes built up on Fur Traffic.&mdash;John
+Jacob Astor.&mdash;Mink and Muskrat Skins.&mdash;Their extensive
+use in America.&mdash;Estimated value of the annual yield of Raw
+Furs throughout the World.&mdash;Classification of Furs by American
+Dealers.&mdash;"Home" Furs.&mdash;"Shipping" Furs.&mdash;Table of Sales
+of Hudson's Bay Company, in 1873.&mdash;March Sale.&mdash;September
+Sale.&mdash;Price according to Quality.&mdash;Estimated average per
+Skin.&mdash;List of American "Shipping" Furs.&mdash;List of American
+"Home" Furs.&mdash;MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS.&mdash;Eccentricities
+of the Fur Market.&mdash;Demand governed by Fashion.&mdash;How
+Fashion runs the Fur Trade.&mdash;The Amateur Trapper and the Fur
+Trade.&mdash;Difficulty of a profitable disposal of Furs.&mdash;Advice
+to the Novice.&mdash;How to realize on the sale of Furs.&mdash;TABLE
+OF VALUES OF AMERICAN FUR SKINS.&mdash;A complete list of American
+Fur bearing Animals.&mdash;Various prices of Skins according to
+Quality.&mdash;USES OF AMERICAN FURS AT HOME AND ABROAD.&mdash;The
+Silver Fox.&mdash;Fifty Guineas for a Fur Skin.&mdash;Red Fox
+Fur.&mdash;Its
+<a name="page_xii"><span class="page">Page xii</span></a>
+use in Oriental Countries.&mdash;Beaver Fur.&mdash;Its various
+uses.&mdash;Raccoon Skins, a great Staple for Russia and
+Germany.&mdash;Bear Skins and their various uses.&mdash;Lynx, Fisher,
+and Marten Skins.&mdash;The Mink.&mdash;Use of its hair for Artists
+pencils.&mdash;Muskrat Skins.&mdash;Three millions annually exported
+to Germany alone.&mdash;Their extensive use among the American
+poorer classes.&mdash;Otter Fur.&mdash;Sleigh Robes from Wolf
+Skins.&mdash;Rabbit Fur.&mdash;Its use in the Manufacture of
+Hats.&mdash;Breeding Rabbits for their Fur.&mdash;The
+Wolverine.&mdash;Skunk Fur, dignified by the name of Alaska
+Sable.&mdash;Large shipments to Foreign Countries.&mdash;How the
+Fur of the Badger is used.&mdash;Opossum, Puma, and Wild Cat
+Fur.&mdash;Robes for the Fashionable.&mdash;Squirrel and Mole skins.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig006.jpg" width="397" height="243" alt="Figure 6">
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<a name="page_xiii"><span class="page">Page xiii</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig007.jpg" width="370" height="424"
+ alt="ILLUSTRATIONS.">
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">
+FULL PAGES.
+</p>
+
+<table border="0">
+ <tr><td class="right">1.</td><td>Caught at last.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">2.</td><td>Traps for Large Game.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">3.</td><td>Snares or Noose Traps.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">4.</td><td>Traps for Feathered Game.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">5.</td><td>Miscellaneous Traps.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">6.</td><td>Household Traps.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">7.</td><td>Steel Traps, and the art of
+  Trapping.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">8.</td><td>Almost Persuaded.&mdash;to
+  face.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">9.</td><td>The Campaign.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">10.</td><td>Trapper's Miscellany.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center">
+<a name="page_xiv"><span class="page">Page xiv</span></a>
+ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.
+</p>
+
+<table border="0">
+ <tr><td class="right">11.</td><td>"Preface".</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">12.</td><td>Initial to Preface.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">13.</td><td>End piece to Preface.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">14.</td><td>"Contents".</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">15.</td><td>"Illustrations".</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">16.</td><td>Initial to Book I.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">17.</td><td>Dead fall for large Animals.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">18.</td><td>Explanatory drawing of pieces.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">19.</td><td>The Gun Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">20.</td><td>The Bow Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">21.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   arrangement of parts.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">22.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   Section.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">23.</td><td>Foot String Bow Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">24.</td><td>The Down fall.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">25.</td><td>The Bear Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">26.</td><td>End piece to Book I.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">27.</td><td>Initial to Book II.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">28.</td><td>Quail Nooses.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">29.</td><td>Hedge Nooses.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">30.</td><td>The Triangle Snare.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">31.</td><td>The Twitch-up.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">32.</td><td>Method of Setting.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">33.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   "&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; No. 2.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">34.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   "&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; No. 3.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">35.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   "&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; No. 4.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">36.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   "&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; No. 5.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">37.</td><td>The Poacher's Snare.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">38.</td><td>The Portable Snare.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">39.</td><td>The "Simplest" Snare.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">40.</td><td>Modification No. 2.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">41.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;
+   3.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">42.</td><td>The Quail Snare.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">43.</td><td>The Box Snare.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">44.</td><td>The Double Box Snare.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">45.</td><td>The Old fashioned Springle.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">46.</td><td>The Improved Springle.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">47.</td><td>The Figure Four Ground Snare.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">48.</td><td>The Platform Snare.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">49.</td><td>End piece.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">50.</td><td>Initial to Book III.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">51.</td><td>The Brick Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">52.</td><td>Method of Setting.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">53.</td><td>The Coop Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">54.</td><td>The Bat fowling Net.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">55.</td><td>The Clap Net.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">56.</td><td>The Bird Whistle.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">57.</td><td>The Trap Cage.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">58.</td><td>Diagrams of Cage.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">59.</td><td>The Spring Net Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">60.</td><td>
+<a name="page_xv"><span class="page">Page xv</span></a>
+  Section of Spring Net Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">61.</td><td>A Simpler Net Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">62.</td><td>The Upright Net Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">63.</td><td>Second Method    "</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">64.</td><td>The Box Owl Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">65.</td><td>The Box Bird Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">66.</td><td>The Pendant Box Bird Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">67.</td><td>The Hawk Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">68.</td><td>The Wild Duck Net.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">69.</td><td>The Hook Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">70.</td><td>The Fool's Cap Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">71.</td><td>The Limed Twig.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">72.</td><td>Humming-bird Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">73.</td><td>Initial to Book IV.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">74.</td><td>The Common Box Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">75.</td><td>Two Modes of Setting.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">76.</td><td>Box Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">77.</td><td>The Figure Four Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">78.</td><td>Parts of     "</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">79.</td><td>The "Double Ender".</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">80.</td><td>The Self-Setting Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">81.</td><td>The Dead fall.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">82.</td><td>Method No. 2.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">83.</td><td>The Garotte.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">84.</td><td>Arrangement of "Setting".</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">85.</td><td>The Bow Garotte Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">86.</td><td>A Fish Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">87.</td><td>End Piece "Maternal advice".</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">88.</td><td>Initial to Book V.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">89.</td><td>The Barrel Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">90.</td><td>The Box Dead Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">91.</td><td>The Board Flap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">92.</td><td>The Box Pit-fall.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">93.</td><td>Diagram of   "</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">94.</td><td>Cage Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">95.</td><td>Initial to Book VI.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">96.</td><td>Steel Trap. No. (0) or Rat
+  Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">97.</td><td>Steel Trap. No. 1, or Muskrat
+  Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">98.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   No. 2, or Mink Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">99.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   No. 2-1/2, or Fox Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">100.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   No. 3, or Otter Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">101.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   No. 4, or Beaver Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">102.</td>
+  <td>"The Great Bear Tamer," Steel Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">103.</td>
+  <td>Steel Trap No. 5, or Small Bear Trap.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">104.</td><td>Steel Trap set in pen.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">105.</td><td>The Spring Pole.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">106.</td><td>The Sliding pole.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">107.</td><td>The Grappling Iron.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">108.</td><td>The Wolf.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">109.</td><td>The Puma.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">110.</td><td>The Canada Lynx.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">
+<a name="page_xvi"><span class="page">Page xvi</span></a>
+  111.</td><td>The Wild Cat.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">112.</td><td>The Bear.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">113.</td><td>The Raccoon.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">114.</td><td>The Badger.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">115.</td><td>The Beaver.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">116.</td><td>The Otter.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">117.</td><td>The Mink.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">118.</td><td>The Marten.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">119.</td><td>The Skunk.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">120.</td><td>The Wolverine.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">121.</td><td>The Opossum.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">122.</td><td>The Squirrel.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">123.</td><td>The Moose.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">124.</td><td>Initial to Book VII.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">125.</td><td>Portable Drinking Cup.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">126.</td><td>The Home Shanty.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">127.</td><td>The Shelter tent.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">128.</td><td>The Trapper's Bed.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">129.</td><td>End Piece.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">130.</td><td>Initial to Book VIII.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">131.</td><td>Head Net.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">132.</td><td>Portable Hat-brim.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">133.</td><td>Hat-brim with netting
+  attachment.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">134.</td><td>The Dug-out or Log Canoe.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">135.</td><td>The Birch-Bark Canoe.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">136.</td><td>A Light Home-made Boat.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">137.</td><td>Diagram view of Boat&mdash;.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">138.</td><td>The Snow Shoe.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">139.</td><td>The Toboggan or Indian Sledge.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">140.</td><td>The Board Stretcher.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">141.</td><td>The Wedge Stretcher.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">142.</td><td>The Bow Stretcher.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">143.</td><td>"The End".</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig008.jpg" width="128" height="131" alt="Figure 8">
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<a name="page_15"><span class="page">Page 15</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig009.jpg" width="516" height="758"
+ alt="TRAPS FOR LARGER GAME">
+</div>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_17"><span class="page">Page 17</span></a>
+BOOK I.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="subtitle">
+TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.
+</p>
+
+<p><img src="images/fig010.jpg" width="170" height="159" alt="H"
+ style="float: left;">owever free our forests may be from the lurking
+dangers of a tropical jungle, they nevertheless shelter a few large
+and formidable beasts which are legitimate and deserving subjects
+of the Trapper's Art. Chief among them are the Puma, or Cougar,
+Bear, Lynx, Wolf and Wolverine.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Although commonly taken in steel traps, as described respectively
+in a later portion of this work, these animals are nevertheless
+often captured by Deadfalls and other devices, which are well known
+to the professional Trapper, and which serve excellently in cases
+of emergency, or in the scarcity of steel traps.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE DEAD-FALL.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are several varieties of this trap, some of which are described
+in other parts of this volume. In general construction they all
+bear a similarity, the methods of setting being slightly changed
+to suit the various game desired for capture. For large animals,
+and particularly the Bear, the trap is sprung by the pressure of
+the animal's foot, while reaching for the bait. Select some favorite
+haunt of the Bear, and proceed to construct a pen of large stakes.
+These should consist of young trees, or straight branches, about
+three inches in diameter, and should be of such a length as to
+reach a height of four or five feet when set in the ground, this
+being the required height of the pen. Its width should be about
+two and a half or three feet; its depth, four feet; and the top
+should be roofed over with cross pieces of timber, to prevent the
+bait from being
+<a name="page_18"><span class="page">Page 18</span></a>
+taken from above. A straight log, about eight inches in diameter,
+and six feet in length should now be rolled against the opening
+of the pen, and hemmed in by two upright posts, one on each side,
+directly on a line with the sides of the enclosure. Another log,
+or tree trunk, of the same diameter, and about fifteen or twenty
+feet in length, should next be procured. Having this in readiness,
+we will now proceed to the construction of the other pieces. In
+order to understand the arrangement of these, we present a separate
+drawing of the parts
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 479px;">
+  <img src="images/fig011.jpg" width="479" height="343" alt="Figure 11">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+as they appear when the trap is set (<i>a</i>).
+An upright post, is supplied at the upper end with a notch, having
+its flat face on the lower side. This post should be driven into
+the ground in the left hand back corner of the pen, and should be
+three feet or more in height. Another post (<i>b</i>) of similar
+dimensions, is provided with a notch at its upper end, the notch
+being reversed, <i>i. e.</i>, having its flat side <i>uppermost</i>.
+This post should be set in the ground, <i>outside</i> of the pen,
+on the right hand side and on a line with the first. A third post
+(<i>c</i>), is provided with a crotch on its upper end. This should
+be planted outside of the pen on the right hand side, and on a line
+with the front. The treadle piece consists of a forked branch,
+about three feet
+<a name="page_19"><span class="page">Page 19</span></a>
+in length, supplied with a square board secured across its ends.
+At the junction of the forks, an augur hole is bored, into which a
+stiff stick about three feet in length is inserted. This is shown
+at (<i>h</i>). Two poles, (<i>d</i>) and (<i>e</i>), should next be
+procured, each about four feet in length. These complete the number
+of pieces, and the trap may then be set. Pass the pole (<i>d</i>)
+
+<span style="float: right; width: 227px;">
+  <img src="images/fig012.jpg" width="227" height="199" alt="Figure 12">
+</span>
+
+between the stakes of the pen, laying one end in the notch in the post
+(<i>a</i>), and holding the other beneath the notch in the upright
+(<i>b</i>). The second pole (<i>e</i>) should then be adjusted,
+one end being placed in the crotch post (<i>c</i>), and the other
+caught beneath the projecting end of the pole (<i>d</i>), as is fully
+illustrated in the engraving. The dead-log should then be rested on
+the front extremity of the pole last adjusted, thus effecting an
+equilibrium.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The treadle-piece should now be placed in position over a short
+stick of wood (<i>f</i>), with its platform raised in front, and
+the upright stick at the back secured beneath the edge of the latch
+pole (<i>d</i>).
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The best bait consists of <i>honey</i>, for which Bears have a
+remarkable fondness. It may be placed on the ground at the back
+part of the enclosure, or smeared on a piece of meat hung at the
+end of the pen. The dead-log should now be weighted by resting
+heavy timbers against its elevated end, as seen in the main drawing,
+after which the machine is ready for its deadly work.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A Bear will never hesitate to risk his life where a feast of honey
+is in view, and the odd arrangement of timbers has no fears for
+him after that tempting bait has once been discovered. Passing
+beneath the suspended log, his heavy paw encounters the broad board
+on the treadle-piece, which immediately sinks with his weight. The
+upright pole at the back of the treadle is thus raised, forcing
+the latch-piece from the notch: this in turn sets free the side
+pole, and the heavy log is released falling with a crushing weight
+over the back of hapless Bruin.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are many other methods of setting the Dead-fall, several
+of which appear in another section of this book. The above is the
+one more commonly used for the capture of Bears,
+<a name="page_20"><span class="page">Page 20</span></a>
+but the others are equally applicable and effective when enlarged
+to the proper size.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In South America and other countries, where Lions, Tigers, Leopards,
+and Jaguars abound, these and other rude extempore traps are almost
+the only ones used, and are always very successful. The pit-fall
+often allures the Bengal Tiger to his destruction, and the Leopard
+often terminates his career at the muzzle of a rifle baited as
+seen in our page illustration. A gun thus arranged forms a most
+sure and deadly trap, and one which may be easily extemporized
+at a few moments' warning, in cases of emergency. The Puma of our
+northern forests, although by no means so terrible a foe as the
+Leopard, is still a blood-thirsty creature, and while he shuns the
+gaze of man with the utmost fear, he is nevertheless constantly
+on the alert to spring upon him unawares, either in an unguarded
+moment or during sleep. A hungry Puma, who excites suspicion by
+his stealthy prowling and ominous growl, may easily be led to his
+destruction at the muzzle of a gun, baited as we shall now describe.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE GUN TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After a Puma has succeeded in capturing his prey, and has satisfied
+his appetite by devouring a portion of its carcass, he leaves the
+remainder for a second meal, and his early return to a second banquet
+is almost a matter of certainty. Where such a remnant of a bygone
+feast is found, the capture of the Cougar is an easy matter. Any
+carcass left in a neighborhood where Pumas are known to exist is
+sure to attract them, and day after day its bulk will be found to
+decrease until the bones only remain. By thus "baiting" a certain
+place and drawing the Pumas thither, the way is paved for their
+most certain destruction. The gun-trap is very simply constructed,
+and may be put in working order in a very few moments. The weapon
+may be a rifle or shot-gun. In the latter case it should be heavily
+loaded with buck-shot. The stock should be first firmly tied to
+some tree, or secured in a stout crotch driven into the ground,
+the barrel being similarly supported.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The gun should be about three feet from the ground, and should
+be aimed at some near tree to avoid possible accident to a chance
+passer-by within its range. The gun should then be cocked, <i>but
+not capped</i>, due caution being always used, and the cap adjusted
+the very last thing after the trap is baited and
+<a name="page_21"><span class="page">Page 21</span></a>
+set. Where a rifle is used, the cartridge should not be inserted
+until the last thing.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is next necessary to cut a small sapling about a foot or two
+in length. Its diameter should allow it to fit snugly inside the
+guard in front of the trigger, without springing the hammer. Its
+other end should now be supported by a very slight crotch, as shown
+in our illustration. Another sapling should next be procured, its
+length being sufficient to reach from the muzzle of the gun to
+the end of the first stick, and having a branch stub or hook on
+one end. The other extremity should be attached by a string to
+the tip of the first slick.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig013.jpg" width="505" height="344" alt="Figure 13">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Now take a portion of the carcass and draw it firmly over the hook
+in the long stick. Prop the latter in such a position as that the
+bait shall hang directly in front of the muzzle. The crotch supporting
+the bait stick should be firmly implanted in the ground in order
+to hold the bait from being drawn to either side of the muzzle.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The gun-trap is now set, and its merits may be tested. Before adjusting
+the cap the pieces should be tried several times to insure their
+perfect working. A slight pull on the bait from the front will
+draw the short stick forward. This immediately
+<a name="page_22"><span class="page">Page 22</span></a>
+acts on the trigger and causes the hammer to snap. By a few trials,
+the sticks can be arranged so as to spring the trigger easily,
+and where a hair trigger is used, a mere touch on the bait will
+suffice to discharge the gun. When all is found to work perfectly,
+the trap should be surrounded by a rude pen of sticks and branches,
+extending two or three feet beyond the muzzle, in order to insure
+an approach directly in the aim of the gun. The cap should now be
+placed on the nipple, after which the deadly device may be left
+to do its certain work. The remaining portion of the carcass should
+be removed, and where the locality is likely to be frequented by
+other hunters or trappers, it is well to put up a "danger" signal
+to guard against accident. If desired two or three guns may be
+arranged like the spokes of a wheel, all aiming near the bait.
+Even with one gun the victim stands but little chance, but where
+two or three pour their contents into his body, his death is an
+absolute certainty.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By fastening the gun three feet above ground the load is discharged
+upward into the mouth of its victim, and thus directly through
+the brain. Where two or more guns are used, it is advisable to
+aim at least one in such a direction as will send its charge into
+the <i>breast</i> of the animal.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Indian Panther is very commonly taken by the gun trap, and
+even Lions are sometimes secured by the same device, only increased
+in power by a larger number of guns.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are several other methods of setting the gun trap. One way
+consists in attaching a string to the finger piece of the trigger,
+passing it back through a small staple or screw eye inserted in
+the under side of the stock for that purpose, and then drawing
+the string forward and attaching it to the top of the bait stick.
+This latter is stuck in the ground directly in front of the muzzle
+and the bait secured to its extremity. When the tempting morsel is
+grasped, the bait stick is drawn forward and the string pulled, the
+result of course being the discharge of the gun. By still another
+method, an elastic is passed through the screw eye in the stock and
+over the finger piece of the trigger, thus tending continually to
+draw it back and spring the hammer. To set the gun a short stick
+is inserted behind the finger piece, thus overcoming the power
+of the elastic. It should be very delicately adjusted, so that a
+mere touch will dislodge it. Its length should be about six inches,
+and to its other end the bait stick should be attached and arranged
+as first described. Although a rather dangerous trap to be set at
+random it is nevertheless
+<a name="page_23"><span class="page">Page 23</span></a>
+often utilized and has brought many a dreaded marauder to his doom.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The bear, lynx, and other large animals are sometimes taken by the
+gun trap, but it is most generally set for the Puma.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BOW TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This device does duty in India and Southern Asia, where it is known
+as the <i>tiger trap</i>.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig014.jpg" width="480" height="358" alt="Figure 14">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is easily constructed as follows: First cut a stout board five
+inches in width, two and a half feet in length and about two inches
+in thickness. Shave off one end to a point so that it may be driven
+into the ground. At the other extremity, in the middle of the board
+and about two inches from the edge, a hole one half an inch in
+diameter and three quarters of an inch in height, should be made;
+two auger holes, one directly above the other with the sides flatly
+trimmed, will answer perfectly. The arrow should next be constructed.
+This should be made of seasoned oak or ash, two feet in length,
+perfectly straight, smooth and round,
+<a name="page_24"><span class="page">Page 24</span></a>
+and one third of an inch in diameter. One end should be notched
+for the bow string and vaned with thin feathers after the manner of
+ordinary arrows. The other extremity should be armed with a steel
+barb sharply pointed, and firmly riveted in place. Any blacksmith
+can forge such a tip; the shape of which is plainly seen in our
+engraving. The bow should consist of a piece of stout seasoned
+hickory, oak or ash four feet long, if such a bow is not at hand,
+a stout sapling may be used. The bow string may consist of cat-gut,
+or stout Indian twine.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Before setting the trap, it is advisable to attract the game to
+the spot selected as already alluded to in connection with the
+gun trap, and particularly so when the Puma is the victim sought.
+In our illustration we see the trap as it appears when set, and
+the same precaution of aiming at some tree should be exercised
+as advise with the gun trap. The bow should first be secured in
+place directly beneath and one eighth of an inch from the edge
+of the hole in the board, as seen at (<i>a</i>). Two large wire
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 345px;">
+  <img src="images/fig015.jpg" width="345" height="236" alt="Figure 15">
+</span>
+
+staples may be used for this purpose, being passed over the bow
+through holes in the board and clinched on the opposite side. The
+bend of the bow and length of string should now be determined, one
+end of the latter being attached to the tip of the bow and the
+other end supplied with a loop. The board should then be driven
+into the ground to the depth of about eight inches. We will next
+take up the arrow. Pass the barb through the hole in the board
+and adjust the notch over the bow-string, draw the arrow back and
+release the string. If the arrow slide easily and swiftly, through
+the board, keeping true to its aim, the contrivance is in perfect
+working order and is ready to be set. This is accomplished by the
+very simple and ingenious mechanical arrangement, shown at (<i>b</i>).
+On the under side of the arrow just behind the barb, a flat notch
+one eighth of an inch in depth and two and a half inches in length
+is cut, with rounded ends, as seen in the illustration. The bait
+stick should consist of a sapling about three feet in length, the
+large end being trimmed so
+<a name="page_25"><span class="page">Page 25</span></a>
+as to fit in the hole over the arrow while the notch in the latter
+rests in the bottom of the aperture as seen in the illustration
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 356px;">
+  <img src="images/fig016.jpg" width="356" height="200" alt="Figure 16">
+</span>
+
+(<i>b</i>). The trap may then be set. Draw back the arrow, until
+the notch rests in the hole in the board. Insert the bait stick
+<i>very lightly</i> above the arrow as shown at (<i>b</i>), propping
+it in place at the angle seen in the main drawing. The bait for a
+puma should consist of a portion of some carcass, or if for other
+animals, any of the baits given in our section on "trapping" may
+be used. In order to secure the bait firmly to the bait stick, a
+small hole and a peg at the side of the baited end will effectually
+prevent its removal and the trap will thus most surely be sprung.
+The prop which sustains the bait stick need be only a small crotch
+inserted a little to one side of the trap. The bow should now be
+surrounded by a wide pen, allowing room for the spring of the ends.
+The top of the enclosure should also be guarded by a few sticks or
+branches laid across. Directly in front of the trap and extending
+from it, a double row of rough stakes three feet high should be
+constructed, thus insuring an approach in the direct range of the
+arrow. Without this precaution the bait might be approached from
+the side, and the arrow pass beneath the head of the animal, whereas
+on the other hand it is sure to take effect in the neck or breast
+of its victim. Of course the success of this trap depends entirely
+upon the strength of the bow. When a large and powerful one is
+used its effect is almost surely fatal.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another form of the bow trap, much used in the capture of the tiger,
+forms the subject of our next illustration: no bait is here used.
+The trap is set at the side of the beaten path of the tiger and
+is sprung by the animal pressing against a string in passing. The
+bow is large and powerful and is secured to two upright posts about
+eight inches apart. The string is drawn back and a blunt stick is
+then inserted between the bow string and the inside centre of the
+bow, thus holding the latter in a bent position. A stout stick,
+with a flattened end is next inserted between the end of the blunt
+stick and the inside of the bow, the
+<a name="page_26"><span class="page">Page 26</span></a>
+remaining part of the stick extending downwards, as our illustration
+shows. To the lower end of this stick a string is attached and
+carried across the path in the direct range of the arrow, being
+secured to a stake on the opposite side. The arrow is generally
+barbed with a steel or flint point, and wound with thread saturated
+with a deadly poison. This is now rested on the top of the bow
+between the upright parts, and its notch caught in the bow-string.
+Everything is then in readiness. The tiger soon steals along his
+beaten track. He comes nearer and nearer the trap until at last
+his breast presses the string. Twang, goes the bow and the arrow is
+imbedded in the flesh of its victim. He writhes for a few moments,
+until he is released from his torments by the certain death which
+follows the course of the poison through his veins.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig017.jpg" width="447" height="300" alt="Figure 17">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The use of the poison is very dangerous: a mere scratch through the
+skin is likely to prove fatal, and the trapper is thus likely to
+prove his own victim. Poisoned arrows are little used by trappers;
+and the bow trap, when properly constructed, is sufficiently effective
+without the venom.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE DOWN-FALL.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is the famous harpoon trap, so commonly used in Africa for
+the capture of the hippopotamus. There is no reason why
+<a name="page_27"><span class="page">Page 27</span></a>
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 493px;">
+  <img src="images/fig018.jpg" width="493" height="492" alt="Figure 18">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+it may not be successfully employed in our own country for taking
+large game, or modified on a reduced scale for smaller animals.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The hippopotamus makes his daily rounds in regular beaten pathways;
+and the trapper, knowing this peculiarity, turns it to advantage.
+This is a common habit with many animals; and these "runways" are
+easily detected by the matted leaves and grass and the broken twigs.
+Over such a beaten track the harpoon-trap is suspended.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The harpoon used by the native African trappers somewhat resembles
+a double-barbed arrowhead, and has a reflexed prong on the shaft
+just behind the barbs,&mdash;a sort of combination between a spear
+and a fish-hook. It is a terrible weapon; and, when once launched
+into the flesh of its victim, its withdrawal is impossible, on
+account of the reflexed barb. Any sharp steel shaft will answer
+the purpose of the harpoon; it should be eight or ten inches in
+length, and filed to a keen point. We will now construct the trap.
+The first requisite is a straight section of the branch of some
+tree. This should be about four inches in diameter, and four feet
+in length. Into one end of this beam the harpoon should be firmly
+imbedded, allowing the point to project about six inches. This
+beam should then be
+<a name="page_28"><span class="page">Page 28</span></a>
+weighted with two large stones, attached firmly by a rope, about
+eighteen inches above the harpoon. At about six inches from the
+other end of the log a notch should be cut, having its flat side
+uppermost, as shown plainly in our illustration. The implement
+is now ready.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Select some favorably situated tree, whose branches extend over
+the pathway chosen for the trap. By the aid of a rope secured to
+the log, and thrown over the limb, the weighted beam may be drawn
+up into the tree. While thus held by a person below, the trapper
+should climb the tree to complete operations. For this purpose, a
+smaller branch about three feet in length should be cut. One end
+should be flattened off on both sides, so as to fit in the notch
+in the beam; and the part which rests on the limb, as seen in the
+illustration, should also be flattened to prevent turning. A piece
+of stout Indian twine should next be fastened to the unwhittled end
+of the stick, which may then be adjusted in the notch of the harpoon
+beam, as seen in the engraving. The string may then be thrown down,
+and grasped by the companion below, who holds it firmly, after
+which the original rope may be removed. It will be noticed that the
+weight of the harpoon and accompaniments rests on the short arm of
+the lever which passes over the limb of the tree, and the tension on
+the string from the long arm is thus very slight. This precaution
+is necessary for the perfect working of the trap. To complete the
+contrivance, a small peg with a rounded notch should be cut, and
+driven into the ground directly plumb beneath the long end of the
+lever. It should be inserted into the earth only sufficiently to
+hold the string without pulling out, and the <i>side</i> of the
+notch should face the path; its height should be about a foot.
+Into the notch the string should be passed, being afterwards drawn
+across the path and secured on the opposite side at the same height.
+The trap is now set; and woe to the unlucky quadruped that dares
+make too free with that string! A very slight pressure from either
+side is equally liable to slip the string from the notch, or loosen
+the peg from the ground; and the result is the same in either
+case,&mdash;down comes the weighted harpoon, carrying death and
+destruction to its victim.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For large animals, this mode of setting will be found to work perfectly.
+When constructed on a smaller scale, it may be slightly modified.
+It will be noticed that, when the string is approached from one
+side, it is merely slipped out of the notch,&mdash;a slight pressure
+being sufficient to dislodge it,&mdash;while the pressure
+<a name="page_29"><span class="page">Page 29</span></a>
+from the opposite direction must be strong enough to lift the peg
+out of the ground bodily. This is easily done when the peg is lightly
+inserted; but, to <i>insure</i> success, even with <i>light</i>
+pressure from either side, an additional precaution may be used,
+if desired. Instead of fastening the end of the string securely to
+some object on the further side of the path, it is well to provide
+the end of the cord with a ring or loop, which should be passed
+over a nail or short peg driven in some tree or branch, or fastened
+into an upright stake, firmly embedded into the ground. The nail
+should point in the opposite direction from the notch in the peg,
+and its angle should incline slightly toward the path. It will
+thus be seen that an approach from one side forces the string from
+the notch in the peg, while an opposite pressure slides the ring
+from the nail.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This mode of setting is especially desirable for small animals,
+on account of its being more sensitive.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Such a trap may be successfully used for the puma, bear, and the
+lynx. When constructed for smaller animals, the harpoon may be
+dispensed with, a large stone being equally effective in its
+death-dealing qualities
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BEAR TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This trap is constructed after the idea of the old-fashioned box
+or rabbit trap, and has been the means of securing many a hungry
+bear, or even puma, whose voracity has exceeded its cunning. The
+lynx and wild-cat are also among its occasional victims; and inasmuch
+as its prisoners are taken alive great sport is often realized
+before the captive is brought under control.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the affair. The sides
+are built of stout young tree-trunks, cut into sections and firmly
+driven into the ground close together. For a large animal,&mdash;a
+bear, for instance,&mdash;the enclosure should be about seven feet
+deep, two and a half feet wide, and four feet high. The top should
+be built in with the sides, after the manner of the log cabin,
+described in <a href="#page_244">page (244.)</a> The two posts
+at the entrance should be first set up. On the back side of each,
+near the end, a deep notch should be cut for the reception of the
+cross piece at the top. This should likewise be notched in a similar
+manner on both sides of each end, so as to fit singly into the
+notches in the uprights on the one side, and into the second pair
+of uprights
+<a name="page_30"><span class="page">Page 30</span></a>
+on the other. These latter should next be inserted firmly into
+the ground, having been previously notched on both sides of their
+upper ends, as described for the cross piece. They may either be
+fixed in place and the cross piece sprung in between them at the
+top, or the latter may be held in the notches of the first pair,
+while the second are being inserted. Continue thus until the full
+length of the sides are reached, when the end may be closed by
+an upright wall of plain logs, either hammered into the ground,
+after the manner of the sides, or arranged one above another in
+notches between the two end uprights. The sliding door is next
+required. This should be large enough to cover the opening, and
+should be made of stout board slabs, firmly secured by cross pieces.
+It should be made to slide smoothly into grooves cut into perpendicular
+logs situated on each side of the opening, or may be arranged to
+slip easily between the flattened side of one log on each side
+and the front of the pen. Either way works well. In the latter
+an additional upright or short board should be inserted in the
+ground at the edges of the sliding door, to prevent the latter
+from being forced to either side by the efforts of the enclosed
+captive.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig019.jpg" width="450" height="328" alt="Figure 19">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are two or three ways of setting the trap, depending upon
+the desired game. For a bear it is arranged as in our illustration.
+An upright post, two feet in length, should be cut
+<a name="page_31"><span class="page">Page 31</span></a>
+to an edge at one end, and wedged in between the logs at the top
+of the trap, near the middle. Across the top of this, a pole seven
+feet in length, should be rested; one end being attached by a loop,
+or secured in a notch in the sliding door, and the other supplied
+with a strong string about four feet in length, with a stick eight
+inches in length secured to its end. Through the centre log, in
+the back of the pen, and about two feet from the ground, an auger
+hole should be made. The bait stick with bait attached should be
+inserted through this hole from the inside, and the spindle caught
+on the outside between its projecting end and a nail driven in
+the adjoining upright. This principle is clearly illustrated on
+<a href="#page_105">page 105</a> at (<i>a</i>), and, if desired,
+the method (<i>b</i>) may be used also. For a bear, the bait should
+consist of a piece of meat scented with burnt honey-comb. The odor
+of honey will tempt a bear into almost any trap, and even into such
+close quarters as the above he will enter without the slightest
+suspicion, when a feast of honey is in view.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For the cougar, or puma, the best bait is a live lamb or a young
+pig, encaged in a small pen erected at the end of the trap. A fowl
+is also excellent. When thus baited, the setting of the trap is
+varied. The upright post at the top of the trap is inserted nearer
+the front, and the cross pole is stouter. The auger hole is bored
+in the top of the trap, through the centre of one of the logs, and
+about twenty inches from the back end of the trap. The spindle is
+dispensed with and the end of the string is provided with a large
+knot, which is lowered through the auger hole, and is prevented
+from slipping back by the insertion of a stick beneath. This stick
+should be about three feet in length, and of such a size at the
+end as will snugly fit into the auger hole. It should be inserted
+delicately, merely enough to hold the knot from slipping back, and
+so as to be easily released by a slight movement in any direction.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This mode of setting is more fully detailed on <a href="#page_52">page
+52</a>. As the puma steals in upon his prey he dislodges the stick,
+the lid falls, and he finds himself imprisoned with his intended
+victim. This trap is much used in India and Asia for the capture of
+the tiger, and the jaguar of South America is frequently entrapped
+by the same devices.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE PIT-FALL.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The tiger is the scourge of India and Southern Asia and some sections
+of these countries are so terribly infested with
+<a name="page_32"><span class="page">Page 32</span></a>
+the brutes that the inhabitants are kept in a continual state of
+terror by their depredations. Many methods are adopted by the natives
+for the destruction of the terrible creatures, some of which have
+already been described. The pit-fall is still another device by
+which this lurking marauder is often captured and destroyed. It
+sometimes consists of a mere pit covered and baited in the haunts of
+the tiger, or is constructed in a continuous deep ditch surrounding
+the habitations of the natives, and thus acting as a secure protection.
+The pit is about twelve feet deep and ten feet in width, and its
+outside edge is lined with a hedge five or six feet in height.
+As the fierce brute steals upon his intended prey, he nears the
+hedge and at one spring its highest branch is cleared. He reaches
+the earth only to find himself at the bottom of a deep pit, from
+which there is no hope of escape, and where he speedily becomes
+the merciless victim of a shower of deadly arrows and bullets.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Happily we have no tigers in the United States, but the puma and
+the lynx are both fit subjects for the pit-fall. These animals
+cannot be said to exist in such numbers as to become a scourge
+and a stranger to the inhabitants of any neighborhood, and for
+this reason the "Moat" arrangement of the pit-fall is not required.
+The simple pit is often used, and when properly constructed and
+baited is a very <i>sure</i> trap. The hole should be about twelve
+feet in depth and eight feet across, widening at the bottom. Its
+opening should be covered with slicks, earth and leaves, so arranged
+as to resemble the surroundings as much as possible, but so lightly
+adjusted as that they will easily give way at a slight pressure.
+One edge of the opening should now be closely built up with stakes
+firmly inserted into the ground, and so constructed as to form a
+small pen in the middle, in which to secure the bait, generally
+a live turkey, goose, or other fowl. The other three sides should
+also be hedged in by a single row of upright stakes three or four
+feet in height, and a few inches apart in order that the hungry
+puma may whet his appetite by glimpses between them.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+They should be firmly imbedded in the earth directly at the edge
+of the pit, and as far as possible trimmed of their branches on the
+inside. There will thus be a small patch of solid ground for the
+feet of the fowl, which should be tied by the leg in the enclosure.
+Our trap is now set, and if there is a puma in the neighborhood he
+will be sure to pay it a call and probably a <i>visit</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Spying his game, he uses every effort to reach it through the
+<a name="page_33"><span class="page">Page 33</span></a>
+crevices between the stakes. The cries of the frightened fowl arouse
+and stimulate his appetite, and at last exasperated by his futile
+efforts to seize his victim, he springs over the fence of stakes
+and is lodged in the depths of the pit.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The puma is very agile of movement, and unless the pit is at least
+twelve feet in depth there is danger of his springing out. Any
+projecting branch on the inside of the stakes affords a grasp for
+his ready paw, and any such branch, if within the reach of his
+leap, is sure to effect his escape. For this reason it is advisable
+to trim smoothly all the projections and leave no stub or knot
+hole by which he could gain the slightest hold. The construction
+of a pit-fall is a rather difficult operation on account of the
+digging which it necessitates. On this account it is not so much
+used as many other traps which are not only equally effective but
+much more easily constructed. The following is an example:&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE LOG COOP TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is commonly set for bears, although a deer or a puma becomes
+its frequent tenant. As its name implies it consists of a coop
+of logs, arranged after the principle of the Coop Trap described
+on <a href="#page_67">page 67</a>. The logs should be about eight
+feet in length, notched at the ends as described for the Log Cabin,
+<a href="#page_244">page (244)</a>. Lay two of the logs parallel
+about seven feet apart. Across their ends in the notches, lay two
+others and continue building up in "cob-house" fashion until the
+height of about six feet is reached. The corners may be secured
+as they are laid by spikes, or they may be united afterward in
+mass by a rope firmly twisted about them from top to bottom. Logs
+should now be laid across the top of the coop and firmly secured
+by the spikes or rope knots. There are several ways of setting the
+trap. A modification of that described on <a href="#page_67">page
+67</a> works very well, or an arrangement of spindle and bait stick,
+as in the Box Trap, <a href="#page_105">page 105</a>, may also be
+employed. In the latter case, the bait stick is either inserted
+between the logs at the back of the coop, or a hole is bored through
+one of them for this purpose. For this mode of setting, the coop
+should be constructed beneath some tree. It is set by means of a
+rope attached to the upper edge of one of its sides the rope being
+thrown over a limb of the tree and the loose end brought down and
+secured to the bait stick by a spindle, as described
+<a name="page_34"><span class="page">Page 34</span></a>
+for the trap on <a href="#page_195">page (195)</a>. The limb here
+acts in place of the tall end piece of the Box Trap, and by raising
+the coop up to such an angle as that it will be nearly poised,
+the setting may be made so delicate that a mere touch on the bait
+stick from the interior will dislodge the pieces and let fall the
+enclosure. The <i>simplest</i> mode of setting the trap is that
+embodied in the "snare" method on <a href="#page_52">page (52)</a>.
+The rope is here provided with a knot, which must pass easily between
+the logs, or through the hole at the back of the coop, the length
+of rope being so arranged as that the coop shall be sufficiently
+raised where the knot projects into the interior. The introduction
+of the bait stick beneath the knot will thus prevent the latter
+from being drawn back, and thus our trap is set. The bait stick in
+any case should be about two feet in length; and with this leverage
+but a slight touch will be required to spring the pieces. In the
+latter method the limb of the tree is not necessary. A stout crotched
+stake driven into the ground about twenty feet, at the back of the
+coop, will answer every purpose, and the coop may be constructed
+wherever desired. This is a most excellent trap for large animals.
+It secures the game alive, and is thus often productive of most
+exciting sport. For the bear, the bait should consist of honey
+or raw meat. Full directions for baiting all kinds of American
+game are given under their respective heads in another part of
+this book. The Coop Trap may be constructed of any dimensions,
+from the small example on <a href="#page_67">page (67)</a> to the
+size above described.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are several other inventions commonly used for the capture
+of large animals in various parts of the globe, which would be
+of little avail in this country. Such is the African Corrall, or
+Hopo, by which whole herds of quaggas, elands, and buffalo are
+often destroyed. The trap consists of two hedges in the form of
+the letter V, which are very high and thick at the angle. Instead
+of the hedges being joined at this point, they are made to form a
+lane about two hundred feet in length, at the extremity of which
+a giant pit is formed. Trunks of trees are laid across the margins
+to prevent the animals from escaping. The opening of this pit is
+then covered with light reeds and small green boughs. The hedges
+often extend miles in length and are equally as far apart at these
+extremities. The tribe of hunters make a circle, three or four miles
+around the country adjacent to the opening, and gradually closing up
+are almost sure to enclose a large body of game, which, by shouts and
+skilfully hurled Javelins, they drive into the narrowing walls
+<a name="page_35"><span class="page">Page 35</span></a>
+of the Hopo. The affrighted animals rush headlong to the gate presented
+at the end of the converging hedges and here plunge pell-mell into
+the pit, which is soon filled with a living mass. Some escape by
+running over the others; and the natives, wild with excitement,
+spear the poor animals with mad delight, while others of the brutes
+are smothered and crushed by the weight of their dead and dying
+companions. It is a most cruel and inhuman device, and its effects
+are sometimes appalling.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE NET TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The lion and tiger are often taken in a net, which is secured to
+a frame work and suspended over a tempting bait. When the latter
+is touched the net falls, and the victim becomes entangled in the
+meshes and is securely caught. So far as we know, this mode of
+capture is never tried in this country. For the puma, lynx and
+wild-cat we fancy it might work admirably. The net should be of
+stout cord, and should be secured to a heavy square frame work,
+tilted as in the coop trap, already described. There should be
+plenty of slack in the net, and the looseness should be drawn flat
+over the framework in folds. The contrivance may be set by a large
+figure four trap, <a href="#page_107">page (107)</a>, or the device
+described under the coop trap, <a href="#page_67">page (67)</a>.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The use of bird lime, for the capture of a tiger, certainly seems
+odd; but it is, nevertheless, a common mode of taking the animal,
+in the countries where this marauder abounds. The viscid, tenacious
+preparation known as bird lime is described on <a href="#page_97">page
+(97)</a> and is familiar to most of our readers. For the capture of
+birds it is unfailing, when once their delicate plumage comes in
+contact with it. Its effect on the tiger is surprising, and many
+a hunter has secured his striped foe by its aid. For this purpose,
+the cans of the preparation are arranged on elevated boards around
+a bed of leaves, in which the bait is placed. A small platform
+is so placed that the tiger shall step upon it in reaching for
+the bait, which, by the aid of strings, tilts the boards and tips
+off the cans. The lime spills on its victim and over the bed of
+leaves, and the tiger, in his endeavors to free himself from the
+sticky substance only succeeds in spreading it, and as he rolls
+and tumbles on the ground he soon becomes completely smeared and
+covered with the dry leaves, from which it is impossible for him
+to extricate himself.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In his frantic rage he writhes upon the ground and becomes
+<a name="page_36"><span class="page">Page 36</span></a>
+an easy prey to the hunter, who is generally on hand for the fray.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Steel traps are much used for the capture of large game, and are
+made in sizes especially adapted for the purpose. These are described
+under the proper head, in another portion of this work; and the various
+baits and modes of setting required for the different animals, are
+clearly set forth under their respective titles of the latter,
+in the section "Art of Trapping."
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig020.jpg" width="313" height="103" alt="Figure 20">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_37"><span class="page">Page 37</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig021.jpg" width="519" height="762"
+ alt="SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS">
+</p>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_39"><span class="page">Page 39</span></a>
+BOOK II.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="subtitle">
+SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS.
+</p>
+
+<p><img src="images/fig022.jpg" width="164" height="158" alt="T"
+ style="float: left;">hese devices, although properly coming under
+the head of "traps," differ from them in the sense in which they
+are generally understood. A <i>snare</i> naturally implies an
+<i>entanglement</i>; and for this reason the term is applied to
+those contrivances which secure their victims by the aid of strings
+or nooses. Inventions of this kind are among the most useful and
+successful to the professional Trapper, and their varieties are
+numerous. The "Twitch-up" will be recognized as a familiar example
+by many of our country readers, who may have seen it during their
+rambles, cautiously set in the low underbrush, awaiting its prey,
+or perhaps holding aloft its misguided victim.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Snares are among the most interesting and ingenious of the trap
+kind, besides being the most sure and efficacious. They possess
+one advantage over all other traps; they can be made in the woods,
+and out of the commonest material.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Let the young trapper supply himself with a small, sharp hatchet,
+and a stout, keen edged jack-knife,&mdash;these being the only
+tools required. He should also provide himself with a coil of fine
+brass "sucker wire," or a quantity of horse-hair nooses (which
+will be described further on), a small ball of tough twine and
+a pocket full of bait, such as apples, corn, oats and the like,
+of course depending upon the game he intends to trap. With these,
+his requirements are complete, and he has the material for a score
+of capital snares, which will do him much excellent service if
+properly constructed. Perhaps the most common of the noose traps
+is the ordinary
+</p>
+
+<h4>QUAIL SNARE,</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+which forms the subject of our first illustration. This consists
+of a series of nooses fastened to a strong twine or wire. They
+<a name="page_40"><span class="page">Page 40</span></a>
+may be of any number, and should either consist of fine wire,
+horse-hair, or fine fish-line. If of wire, common brass "sucker
+wire," to be found in nearly all hardware establishments and country
+stores, is the best. Each noose should be about four inches in
+diameter. To make it, a small loop should be twisted on one end of
+the wire, and the other passed through it, thus making a slipping
+loop, which will be found to work very easily. Fifteen or twenty of
+these nooses should be made, after which they should be fastened
+either to a stout string or wire, at distances of about four inches
+from each other, as seen in our illustration. Each end of the long
+string supporting the nooses should then be fastened to a wooden
+peg. After selecting the ground, the pegs should be driven into
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 488px;">
+  <img src="images/fig023.jpg" width="488" height="139" alt="Figure 23">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+the earth, drawing the string tightly, as seen in our illustration.
+The ground around the nooses should then be sprinkled with corn,
+oats, and the like, and the trap is set. As a general thing, it
+is advisable to set it in a neighborhood where quails are known
+to abound; and as they run all over the ground in search of food,
+they are sure to come across the bait strewn for them, and equally
+as certain to be caught and entangled in the nooses. The writer
+has known as many as six quails to be thus caught at a time, on
+a string of only twelve nooses. Partridges and woodcock will
+occasionally be found entangled in the snare, and it will oft-times
+happen that a rabbit will be secured by the device.
+</p>
+
+<h4>HOOP NOOSES.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is a variation from the above, the noose being attached to
+a barrel hoop and the latter being fastened to two stout posts,
+which are firmly driven into the ground. By their scattering the
+bait inside the hoop, and adjusting the loops, the contrivance
+is complete.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is a very old and approved method.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the initial (T) at the head of this section we give also
+<a name="page_41"><span class="page">Page 41</span></a>
+another suggestion for a noose trap. The cross pieces are tacked
+to the top of the upright, and a noose suspended from each
+end,&mdash;the bait adjusted as there seen.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We have mentioned horse-hair nooses as being desirable, and they
+are commonly used; but, as it takes considerable time to make them,
+and the wire answering the purpose fully as well, we rather recommend
+the wire in preference. We will give a few simple directions, however,
+for the making of the horse-hair nooses, in case our readers might
+desire to use them instead.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (we would
+recommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of the hairs
+and double it in the middle, hold the double between the thumb
+and fore-finger of the left hand, letting the two ends hang from
+the under side of the thumb, and keeping the hairs between the
+thumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. Now proceed to
+twist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, letting them
+twist together as the loop emerges on the upper side of the thumb.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A little practice will overcome what at first seems very difficult.
+To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right distance
+of separation, and at the same time to twist them and draw the
+loop from between the fingers as they <i>are</i> twisted, seems
+quite a complicated operation; and so it will be found at first.
+But when once mastered by practice, the twisting of five nooses
+a minute will be an easy matter. When the entire length of the
+hairs are twisted, the ends should be cut off even and then passed
+through the small loop at the folded end. The noose is then ready
+to be fastened to the main string of support. Horse-hair nooses
+are commonly used in nearly all snares as they are always to be
+had, and possess considerable strength. The fine brass wire is
+also extensively used, and the writer rather prefers it. It is
+very strong and slips easily, besides doing away with the trouble
+of twisting the loops, which to some might be a very difficult and
+tedious operation. We recommend the wire, and shall allude to it
+chiefly in the future, although the horse-hair may be substituted
+whenever desired.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There is another modification of the foregoing quail-traps very
+commonly utilized by professional trappers of many countries. A
+low hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length small
+openings are left here and there, in which the nooses are placed,
+as in the accompanying engraving. The bait is strewn around on both
+sides of the hedge, and the grouse or other game, on its discovery,
+are almost sure to become entangled
+<a name="page_42"><span class="page">Page 42</span></a>
+sooner or later. It is a well-known fact about these birds, that
+they will always seek to pass <i>under</i> an object which comes
+in their way rather than fly over it; and although the hedge of
+this trap is only a foot or more in height, the birds will almost
+invariably run about until they find an opening, in preference to
+flying over it. It is owing to this peculiarity of habit that they
+are so easily taken by this method. Our illustration gives only a
+very short section of hedge; it may be extended to any length. The
+writer's experience with the hedge nooses has been very satisfactory,
+although never using a length greater than ten feet. It is well
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 475px;">
+  <img src="images/fig024.jpg" width="475" height="142" alt="Figure 24">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+to set the hedge in the locality where quails or partridges are
+<i>known</i> to run. And in setting, it is always desirable to
+build the hedge so that it will stretch over some open ground,
+and connect with two trees or bushes. Cedar boughs are excellent
+for the purpose, but any close brushwood will answer very well.
+Strew the ground with corn, oats and the like. A small quantity
+only is necessary.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There is another noose trap commonly used abroad, and very little
+known here. It is a <i>tree</i> trap, and goes by the name of the
+"triangle snare." It is not designed for the capture of any
+<i>particular</i> kind of bird, although it often will secure fine
+and rare specimens. It consists of a sapling of wood, bent and tied
+in the form of a triangle, as shown in our illustration. This may
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 212px;">
+  <img src="images/fig025.jpg" width="212" height="191" alt="Figure 25">
+</span>
+
+be of any size, depending altogether on the bird the young trapper
+fancies to secure. A noose should be suspended in the triangle from
+its longest point. This noose should hang as indicated in our
+illustration, falling low enough to leave a space of an inch or
+so below it at the bottom of the triangle. The bait, consisting
+of a piece of an apple, a berry, insect, or piece of
+<a name="page_43"><span class="page">Page 43</span></a>
+meat, according to the wish of the trapper, should then be suspended
+in the centre of the noose, after which the contrivance should be
+hung in some tree to await events. As they are so easily made and
+can be carried with so little trouble, it is an excellent plan to
+set out with a dozen or so, hanging them all in different parts of
+the woods; as, under circumstances of so many being set, scarcely
+a day will pass in which the trapper will not be rewarded by some
+one of the snares. The writer once knew of a case where a hawk
+was captured by one of these simple devices. In this case it had
+been set expressly, and the wire was extra strong. This trap, we
+believe, is quite common in parts of Germany, but, as far as we
+know, has not been utilized to any great extent in our country.
+We recommend it with great confidence.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For the capture of woodchucks, muskrats and house-rats, the wire
+noose may also be adapted to good purpose. Many a woodchuck has been
+secured by the aid of this simple invention. It is only necessary
+to arrange the loop in the opening of the burrow, securing the wire
+to a stout stick, firmly driven into the ground. If properly "set"
+the animal, on emerging from the burrow, will become entangled, and
+by his efforts to disengage himself will only tighten the loop
+and thus render escape impossible. For rats, the noose should be
+attached to a nail, and the wire similarly arranged over the hole.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The slipping-noose thus simply adapted becomes a most effective
+trap, and is always sure to hold its victim when once within its
+grasp, as every struggle only tends to draw the noose tighter. They
+are quick in their action, and produce death without much pain,
+and for this reason are to be commended.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE "TWITCH-UP."</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Our next example of the snare, we imagine, is one which all our
+boy-readers will immediately recognize; for it would certainly
+seem that any country boy who does not know the "Twitch-up" must
+be far behind the times, and live in a locality where there are
+no rabbits, quail, or even boys, besides himself, to suggest it.
+This snare is a <i>universal favorite</i> among nearly all country
+boys, and our illustration will immediately bring it to mind. Its
+name, "The Twitch-up," conveys perfectly its method of working.
+Our illustration represents the trap as it appears when set. It
+has many varieties, of which we will select the best. They may
+be divided into two classes&mdash;those with upright nooses, and
+those in which the noose is
+<a name="page_44"><span class="page">Page 44</span></a>
+spread on the ground, the latter of which are commonly called "ground
+snares." We will give our attention first to the "upright" style.
+These are rather entitled to preference on account of the harmless
+death which they inflict, invariably catching by the neck. Whereas
+the ground nooses as frequently lift their prey into the air by
+their feet, and thus prolong their suffering. Twitch-ups are the
+most successful and sure of any snares, and that, too, without
+being complicated. The writer, in his younger days, was quite an
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 458px;">
+  <img src="images/fig026.jpg" width="458" height="346" alt="Figure 26">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+expert in trapping, and he can truthfully say that he found more
+enjoyment and had better success with these than with any other
+kinds of traps he employed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+They are generally set in thickets or woods where either rabbits
+or partridges are known to abound. Having arrived at his chosen
+trapping ground, the young trapper should first select some slender,
+elastic sapling; that of the hickory is the best, and is generally
+to be found in open woods&mdash;if not, some other kind will answer
+very well. It should be about five or six feet in length, (trimmed of
+its branches,) and in diameter need be no larger than an axe-handle
+or a broom-stick. When this is decided, some spot about five feet
+distant from the sapling should then be selected. The hatchet and
+knife will now come into excellent use, in cutting the sticks for
+the little inclosure shown
+<a name="page_45"><span class="page">Page 45</span></a>
+in our drawing. This should be about eight or ten inches in diameter,
+and of about the same height. The sticks should be driven into
+the ground in a circle, leaving an open space of about six inches
+on one side. A stout switch as large as a man's little finger,
+and nearly two feet long, should then be cut and nicely sharpened
+at both ends. This should then be driven into the ground in the
+form of an arch, at the opening of the inclosure.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We will now ask our readers to turn their attention to the next
+illustration, in order to understand what is to follow. This picture
+shows the method of setting the trap.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After the arch is firmly fixed in its place, a short piece of stick
+should be cut, of a length corresponding to the height of the arch.
+To the middle of this stick the bait should be attached, being
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 239px;">
+  <img src="images/fig027.jpg" width="239" height="294" alt="Figure 27">
+</span>
+
+either tied to it or stuck on a plug driven into the stick, the
+latter being sharpened on one end. Next proceed to cut another
+stick, of about six inches in length; let this be flattened on
+one end. The wire noose should then be fastened to the opposite
+end. The noose in this case should be large enough to fill the
+opening of the arch. We will now go back to the sapling again.
+It should be bent down slightly, and a piece of the strong twine
+should be tied to its tip. Taking hold of the string, proceed to
+bend down the end of the sapling, in the direction of the inclosure,
+until it draws with a force strong enough to lift a rabbit if he
+were tied to the end of it. Thus holding it down with the string
+against the front of the inclosure, cut off the twine at the place
+where it crosses the top of the arch, as this will be the required
+length. It is now necessary to tie the end of this string to the
+same piece of wood and at the same place to which the noose was
+tied. When this is done the trap may be set as shown in the cut.
+The spring sapling should be bent as seen in the first illustration.
+The piece of wood holding the noose should be passed beneath the
+top of the arch, as far as it will go, with its long end pointing
+inside the inclosure. By now supporting the inside end with the
+bait stick, and carefully adjusting the noose so as to completely
+fill the arch, the trap will be set.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_46"><span class="page">Page 46</span></a>
+In order to reach the bait, the rabbit or bird <i>must</i> necessarily
+pass its head through the noose, after which, if the bait be scarcely
+<i>touched</i>, the animal's doom is sealed, and he is lifted into
+the air, generally suffering almost instant death. It is well known
+that in the case of a rabbit the neck is broken by a very slight
+blow, a strong snap of the finger being often sufficient. It is
+therefore safe to conclude that when thus suddenly caught and lifted
+by the noose, death must occur almost instantaneously from the
+same cause.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is not really necessary for success that the force of the sapling
+should be strong enough to lift the rabbit from the ground, as a
+mere strong tightening of the noose would be sufficient to cause
+strangulation and death. But we recommend the former method as
+being less painful and more rapid in its effects.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If the young trapper should experience any difficulty in finding
+saplings of the right size, in the locality where he desires to
+set his traps, the difficulty may be easily mended by cutting the
+poles elsewhere, and carrying them to his trapping-ground, this
+answering the purpose equally well. They should be sharpened nicely
+on the large end, and firmly stuck into ground. The "Twitch-up"
+may be used for the capture of all varieties of game, and when
+set with the noose in the opening of a hollow tree, a stray coon
+will occasionally be entrapped.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The next figure represents another method of constructing this
+trap, The picture explains itself. Instead of the arch, two notched
+
+<span style="float: right; width: 253px;">
+  <img src="images/fig028.jpg" width="253" height="294"
+   alt="Method No. 2.">
+</span>
+
+sticks are driven into the ground, one on each side of the opening
+of the pen, The other piece should be of the shape shown in the
+figure, made either in one piece or in two pieces fastened together.
+They may all be constructed from twigs in the woods. Let the noose
+and draw-string now be fastened to the middle of the cross piece,
+and when set it will appear as in our figure. It will easily be
+seen that a slight pull on the bait will turn the cross piece from
+beneath the notches, and allow it to fly into the air.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In our next instance the same principle is employed. The
+<a name="page_47"><span class="page">Page 47</span></a>
+notched pegs are here driven in the back part of the pen, about
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 310px;">
+  <img src="images/fig029.jpg" width="310" height="208"
+   alt="Method No. 3.">
+</span>
+
+five inches apart, with their notches towards the front. A forked
+bait stick of the shape shown is then procured. The draw-string
+should be attached near the end furthest from the fork. By now
+inserting the ends lightly beneath the notches in the pegs, at
+the same time letting the bait incline near the ground, the trap
+will be set on a very slight lift, as the bait will dislodge the
+pieces. Of course the noose must be arranged in the opening of the
+pen, as in the previous varieties. The bait stick in both cases
+should be set cautiously beneath the notches, as shown at (<i>a</i>),
+so that the slightest turn will cause it to roll out of position.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A fourth method of snaring is shown in our next figure. In this
+instance the original arch is used, or else some circular opening
+constructed in the front of the pen. Inside, at the back part of
+the inclosure, a smaller arch is placed. Two sticks are then to
+be made similar to those mentioned in our first example of the
+"Twitch-up." Let the draw-string be tied to the end of one of these
+sticks; after which it should be passed under the inside arch, being
+brought out in front of it, and there supported by the bait-stick,
+as seen in our illustration. The noose should then be attached
+
+<span style="float: right; width:223px;">
+  <img src="images/fig030.jpg" width="223" height="222"
+   alt="Method No. 4.">
+</span>
+
+to the draw-string above the pen, and afterward brought down and
+arranged in front of the opening. The trap is then set, and will
+be found on trial to work admirably.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+One of the simplest as well as <i>surest</i> of "Twitch-up" traps
+forms the subject of our next illustration. Like the foregoing
+varieties it is of course to be surrounded by its pen, and supplied
+with a circular opening or arch at one side, in which to hang the
+noose. It is constructed of three twigs. A simple crotch (<i>a</i>)
+should be firmly inserted in the ground at
+<a name="page_48"><span class="page">Page 48</span></a>
+
+<span style="float: left; width:283px;">
+  <img src="images/fig031.jpg" width="283" height="227"
+   alt="Method No. 5.">
+</span>
+
+the back part of the pen; (<i>b</i>) the bait stick, consists of a
+straight twig, five or six inches in length, and should be attached
+to the draw-string at about half an inch from the large end; (<i>c</i>)
+is another forked stick with unequal arms, the long one being driven
+into the ground near the opening of the pen and a little to one side,
+letting the remaining arm point directly towards the crotch-stick
+at the back of the pen. The noose having been attached to the
+draw-string, the trap may now be set. Lower the bait stick and pass
+the large end under the crotch at the back of the pen, catching
+the baited end underneath the tip of the forked stick near the
+pen's opening. Arrange the noose in front of the entrance, and
+the thing is done. A mere touch on the bait will suffice to throw
+the pieces asunder. It is an excellent plan to sharpen the point of
+the forked stick (<i>c</i>) where it comes in contact with the bait
+stick, in order to make the bearing more slight, and consequently
+more easily thrown from its balance.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE POACHER'S' SNARE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Our next example represents one of the oldest and best snares in
+existence,&mdash;simple in construction, and almost infallible in
+its operations. It is the one in most common use among the poachers
+of England, hence its name. The pieces are three in number, and may
+be cut from pine wood, affording easy and profitable employment
+for the jack-knife during odd hours and rainy days, when time hangs
+heavily.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The pieces are so simple in form and easy of construction that a
+sufficient number for fifty traps might be whittled in less than two
+hours, by any smart boy, who is at all "handy" with his jack-knife.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If a few good broad shingles can be found, the work is even much
+easier,&mdash;mere splitting and notching being then all that is
+necessary. The bait stick should be about eight inches long, pointed
+at one end, and supplied with a notch in the other at about half
+an inch from the tip. The upright
+<a name="page_49"><span class="page">Page 49</span></a>
+stick should be considerably shorter than the bait stick, and have
+a length of about ten inches, one end being nicely pointed, and the
+broad side of the other extremity supplied with a notch similar
+
+<span style="float: left; width:283px;">
+  <img src="images/fig032.jpg" width="291" height="243"
+   alt="Figure 32">
+</span>
+
+to the bait stick. About four inches from the blunt end, and on the
+narrow side of the stick, a square notch should be cut, sufficiently
+large to admit the bait stick loosely. The catch piece now remains.
+This should be about two and a-half inches in width, and bevelled
+off at each end into a flat edge. The shapes of the different pieces,
+together with their setting, will be readily understood by a look
+at our illustration.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A hundred of these pieces will make a small bundle, and may be easily
+carried by the young trapper, together with his other necessaries,
+as he starts off into the woods. He will thus be supplied with parts
+for thirty-three traps, all ready to be set, only requiring the
+stakes for the pens, which may be easily cut in the woods. Having
+selected a flexible sapling about five feet in length, and having
+stripped it of its branches, proceed to adjust the pieces. Take one
+of the upright sticks, and insert it firmly in the ground, with
+its upper notch facing the sapling, and at about four feet distant
+from it. Bend down the "springer," and by its force determine the
+required length for the draw-string attaching one end to the tip
+of the sapling, and the other near the end of a catch piece, the
+latter having its bevelled side uppermost. The wire noose should
+then be attached to the draw-string about six inches above the
+catch-piece. The pen should now be constructed as previously directed.
+Its entrance should be on the side <i>furthest</i> from the springer,
+and should be so built as that the peg in the ground shall be at
+the back part of the enclosure. The pen being finished, the trap
+may be set.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Insert the bait stick with bait attached into the square notch in
+the side of the upright peg; or, if desired, it may be adjusted by
+a pivot or nail through both sticks, as seen in our illustration,
+always letting the baited end project toward the
+<a name="page_50"><span class="page">Page 50</span></a>
+opening. Draw down the catch piece, and fit its ends into the notches
+in the back of the upright peg and extremity of the bait-stick.
+By now pulling the latter slightly, and gently withdrawing the
+hand, the pieces will hold themselves together, only awaiting a
+lift at the bait to dislodge them. Adjust the wire loop at the
+opening of the pen, and you may leave the trap with the utmost
+confidence in its ability to take care of itself, and any unlucky
+intruder who tries to steal its property.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Most of the snares which we shall describe are constructed from
+rough twigs, as these are always to be found in the woods, and
+with a little practice are easily cut and shaped into the desired
+forms. If desired, however, many of them may be whittled from pine
+wood like the foregoing, and the pieces carried in a bundle, ready
+for immediate use. In either case, whether made from the rough
+twigs or seasoned wood, it is a good plan to have them already
+prepared, and thus save time at the trapping ground when time is
+more valuable.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE PORTABLE SNARE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is simply a modification of the snare just described, but
+possesses decided advantages over it in many respects. In the first
+place, it requires little or no protection in the shape of an enclosure.
+It can be set in trees or in swamps, or in short in <i>any</i> place
+where an upright elastic branch can be found or adjusted. Like
+the foregoing, it is to be commended for its portability, fifty
+or sixty of the pieces making but a small parcel, and furnishing
+material for a score of traps. We call it the "portable snare"
+partly in order to distinguish it from the one just described,
+but chiefly because this particular variety is generally called
+by that name in countries where it is most used.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is composed of three pieces, all to be cut from a shingle or thin
+board. Let the first be about eight inches long, and three-quarters
+of an inch in width. This is for the upright. An oblong mortise
+should be cut through this piece, one inch in length, and beginning
+at about an inch from the end of the stick. Three inches from the
+other end, and on one of the broad sides of the stick, a notch
+should be made, corresponding in shape to that shown in our
+illustration. The bait stick should be four or five inches long,
+one end fitting easily into the mortise, where it should be secured
+by a wire or smooth nail
+<a name="page_51"><span class="page">Page 51</span></a>
+driven through so as to form a hinge, on which it will work easily.
+On the upper side of this stick, and two inches distant from the
+pivot, a notch should be cut, similar to that in the upright. The
+catch piece should be about two inches in length, and bevelled
+off to a fiat edge at each end. This completes the pieces.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig033.jpg" width="384" height="517" alt="Figure 33">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+To set the trap, it is only necessary to find some stout sapling,
+after which the upright stick may be attached to it close to the
+ground, by the aid of two pieces of stout iron wire, twisted firmly
+around both. It is well to cut slight grooves at each end of the
+upright for the reception of the wires, in order to prevent slipping.
+Tie a strong piece of twine around one
+<a name="page_52"><span class="page">Page 52</span></a>
+end of the catch piece, knotting it on the beveled side. Cut the
+string about two feet in length, and attach the other end to the
+tip of the sapling. Adjust the bait stick on its pivot. By now
+lowering the catch piece, and lodging the knotted end beneath the
+notch in the upright and the other end in the notch on the bait
+stick, the pieces will appear as in our drawing. Care should be
+taken to set the catch pieces as slightly as possible in the notches,
+in order to insure sensitiveness. At about four inches from the
+catch piece, the wire noose should be attached and arranged in a
+circle directly around the bait. By now backing up the trap with
+a few sticks to prevent the bait from being approached from behind,
+the thing is complete, and woe to the misguided creature that dares
+to test its efficacy. By adjusting the drawstring so far as the
+upper end of the catch piece, the leverage on the bait stick is
+so slight as to require a mere touch to overcome it; and we may
+safely say that, when this trap is once baited, it will stay baited,
+so far as animal intruders are concerned, as we never yet have
+seen a rabbit or bird skilful enough to remove the tempting morsel
+before being summarily dealt with by the noose on guard duty.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For portability, however, the following has no equal.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE "SIMPLEST" SNARE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<span style="float: left; width: 232px;">
+  <img src="images/fig034.jpg" width="232" height="276"
+   alt="Method No. 1.">
+</span>
+
+This is one of the most ingenious and effective devices used in
+the art of trapping; and the principle is so simple and universal
+in its application to traps in general as to become a matter of
+great value to all who are at all interested in the subject. There
+is scarcely a trap of any kind which could not be set with the
+knotted string and bait stick, at the expense of a little thought
+and ingenuity. The principle is easily understood by a look at our
+engraving, which probably represents the <i>simplest</i> twitch-up
+it is possible to construct. A stout wooden peg, having a hole the
+size of a lead pencil near the top, is driven firmly into the
+<a name="page_53"><span class="page">Page 53</span></a>
+ground. The "knot" is made on the end of the draw-string, and passed
+through the hole in the peg from behind, being secured in place by
+the insertion of the bait stick in front. The latter should be about
+four inches long, and should be inserted very lightly,&mdash;merely
+enough to prevent the knot from slipping back. The noose should
+be fastened to the draw-string six or seven inches from the knot,
+and arranged in front of the bait at the opening of the pen, which
+should be constructed as previously directed. The peg should be
+about six inches long and the hole should be made with a 1-3 inch
+auger. Dozens of these pegs may be carried without inconvenience,
+and utilized in the same number of snares, in a very short time.
+We have already described the so-called "portable snare;" but,
+for portability, there is no noose-trap to be compared with the
+above. We give also a few other applications of the same principle.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<span style="float: left; width: 293px;">
+  <img src="images/fig035.jpg" width="293" height="331"
+   alt="Method No. 2.">
+</span>
+
+In the second example, a horizontal stick is used instead of the
+peg, the hole being made in its centre. Its ends are caught in
+notches in opposite sticks at the back part of the pen, and the
+noose arranged at the opening.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Again, by a third method (see engraving next page), these notched
+sticks may be driven into the ground first, and a row of twigs
+continued on them on both sides, thus leaving a passageway between
+as represented in the illustration. A noose may then be set at
+each opening, with the bait in the middle; so that, at whichever
+side it is approached, the result is the same, besides affording
+a chance of securing two birds at the same time.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE QUAIL SNARE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+That quails are sociable in their habits, and that they run together
+in broods in search of their food, is a fact well known
+<a name="page_54"><span class="page">Page 54</span></a>
+to all sportsmen. A most excellent opportunity is thus afforded
+the hunter to secure several at one shot, and the same advantage
+may be gained by the trapper by specially arranging for it. For
+this purpose there is no invention more desirable or effective than
+the snare we next illustrate; and on account of the companionable
+habits of the quail, it is just as sure to catch six birds as one.
+The principle on which the trap works, is the same as in the three
+foregoing.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Two notched pegs are first driven into the ground, about four inches
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 274px;">
+  <img src="images/fig036.jpg" width="274" height="208"
+   alt="Method No. 3.">
+</span>
+
+apart, and the flat stick with the hole in the centre caught beneath
+these summits, as just described. It should be firmly secured;
+several nooses are next to be attached to the drawstring, and the
+trap set as already directed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The best bait consists of a "nub" of pop-corn, firmly impaled on
+the spindle, together with a few loose grains scattered on the ground
+right beneath it. The nooses should be arranged around the bait so
+as to touch or overlap each other, and the bait stick introduced
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 244px;">
+  <img src="images/fig037.jpg" width="244" height="268"
+   alt="Fiugre 37">
+</span>
+
+into the hole a little more firmly than when set with one noose. The
+quail on reaching the trap all rush for the corn on the ground,
+and thus fill nearly if not all the nooses. When the supply here
+is exhausted, then united attacks are directed towards the "nub"
+on the bait stick, which soon becomes loosened: the knot is thus
+released and each noose will probably launch a victim in mid-air.
+This invention is original with the author of this work, so far
+as he knows; and it will be found the simplest as well as most
+effective quail snare in existence. Pop-corn is mentioned as bait
+partly on account of its being a favorite food with the quail; but
+particularly because the <i>pecking</i> which it necessitates
+<a name="page_55"><span class="page">Page 55</span></a>
+in order to remove the grains from the cob, is sure to spring the
+trap. If pop corn cannot be had, common Indian corn will answer
+very well. Oats or buckwheat may also be used, as the ground bait,
+if desired.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BOX SNARE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is a most unique device, and will well repay anyone who may
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 364px;">
+  <img src="images/fig038.jpg" width="364" height="397" alt="Figure 38">
+</span>
+
+desire to test its merits. It may be set for rabbits, coon, or
+feathered game, of course varying the size of the box accordingly. For
+ordinary purposes, it should be seven or eight inches square, leaving
+one end open. Place it in the position shown in the illustration
+and proceed to bore an auger hole in the top board, one and a half
+inches from the back edge.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is for the reception of the bait stick. Directly opposite
+to this and an inch from the front edge of the board a notched
+peg should be inserted. A gimlet hole should now be bored on a
+line between the auger hole and notched peg, and half an inch from
+the latter. A small stout screw eye should next be inserted at
+the rear edge of the board, and another one fastened to the back
+board, two inches from the bottom. With these simple preparations
+the box is complete. The bait stick should be about five or six
+inches long and supplied with a notch at the upper end. It should be
+of such a size as to pass easily into the auger hole, and provided
+with a peg inserted through it at about an inch and a half from
+the notched end, as shown in our illustration at (<i>a</i>). The
+object of this peg is to prevent the bait stick from being drawn
+entirely through the hole by the
+<a name="page_56"><span class="page">Page 56</span></a>
+force of the pull from above. The catch piece should be only long
+enough to secure its ends beneath the notches in the peg at the top
+of the box and the projecting bait stick. It should be bevelled off
+at the tips as in the instances previously described, and attached
+to a piece of sucker wire, the point of attachment being at about
+an inch from the end of the stick. The wire should be about two
+and a half feet in length, the catch piece being fastened at about
+six inches from one end. To set this neat little invention it is
+first necessary to procure a strong and elastic switch about four
+feet in length, sharpen it slightly at the large end and insert
+it firmly in the screw eye at the back of the box, securing it in
+place at the top by strings through the screw eye at that place. By
+now attaching the short end of the wire to the tip of the sapling,
+inserting the bait stick from the inside of the box, and securing the
+catch piece in the notches, the other pieces will be in equilibrium,
+and the only remaining thing to be done is to pass the long end
+of the wire through the gimlet hole, and form it into a slipping
+noose which shall completely fill the opening of the box. In order
+to reach the bait the animal must pass his head through the noose,
+and it can be easily seen that the slightest pull on that tempting
+morsel will release the catch piece and tighten the wire around
+the neck of the intruder. Where the trap is small and the captured
+animal is large, it will sometimes happen that the box will be
+carried a distance of several feet before overpowering its victim;
+but it is sure to do it in the end if the spring powers of the
+sapling are strong and it is firmly secured to the box. If desired,
+the box may be tied to a neighboring stone or tree to prevent any
+such capers; but it will generally be found unnecessary, and a few
+minutes' search will always reveal it with its unlucky captive.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We have described the box with its spring attached; but this is not
+a requisite, as it may be used with growing sapling when required.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The same trap may be constructed of a pasteboard box and whalebone,
+for the capture of small birds, and used with good success. The
+size we have mentioned is adaptable for rabbits and animals of
+the same size, but is really larger than necessary for feathered
+game.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is another embodiment of the same principle which has already
+been described, viz.&mdash;the knotted string. By many it
+<a name="page_57"><span class="page">Page 57</span></a>
+is considered an improvement on the box snare just mentioned, owing
+to the possibility of its taking two victims at the same time. It
+may be set for rabbits, mink, or muskrat, and will be found very
+efficient.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It consists of a box about eight inches square, one foot in length,
+and open at both ends. In the centre of the top board a hole of the
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 498px;">
+  <img src="images/fig039.jpg" width="498" height="415" alt="Figure 39">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+diameter of a lead pencil should be bored, and a smaller aperture
+also made in the middle of each end near the edge as seen in the
+accompanying engraving. The spring is next required. This should
+consist of an elastic switch or small pole, three or more feet
+in length. It should be inserted in a slanting auger hole, made
+through the middle of one of the side boards near the bottom at
+the angle shown at (<i>a</i>). Should the switch fit loosely it
+may be easily tightened by a small wedge driven in beside it. The
+bait stick (<i>b</i>) should be about four inches in length, and
+large enough to fit easily into the hole in the centre of the top
+board. Next procure a stout bit of cord about eight inches in length.
+Tie one end to the tip of
+<a name="page_58"><span class="page">Page 58</span></a>
+the switch and provide the other with a large double knot. A second
+knot should then be made, about an inch and a half above the first.
+A piece of sucker wire is the next necessity. Its length should be
+about five feet, and its centre should be tied over the uppermost
+knot in the string. If the bait is now in readiness, the trap may
+be set. Bend down the switch until the end knot will pass through
+the hole in the centre of the board. When it appears in the inside
+of the box, it should then be secured by the insertion of the top
+of the bait stick, as shown at (<i>b</i>). This insertion need be
+only very slight, a sixteenth of an inch being all that is sufficient
+to prevent the knot from slipping back. The spring is thus held
+in the position seen in the drawing, and the loose ends of the
+sucker wire should then be passed downward through the small holes
+and arranged in nooses at both openings of the box. Our trap is
+now set, and the unlucky creature which attempts to move that bait
+from either approach, will bring its career to an untimely end.
+The bait stick may be so delicately adjusted as to need only the
+slightest touch to dislodge it. Such a fine setting is to be guarded
+against, however, being as likely to be sprung by a mouse as by
+a larger animal. The setting is easily regulated, being entirely
+dependent upon the slight or firm insertion of the bait stick.
+Among all the "modi operandi" in the construction of traps, there
+is scarcely one more simple than the principle embodied in this
+variety, and there is none more effective.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The box snare already described may be set by the same method,
+and indeed the principle may be applied to almost any trap, from
+the simplest snare described on <a href="#page_52">page (52)</a>
+to the largest dead-fall.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<h3>GROUND SNARES.</h3>
+
+<h4>THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is the variety of snare which has been in very common use
+for ages, and has always been the one solitary example of a noose
+trap which our "boys' books" have invariably pounced upon for
+illustration. For the capture of small birds it works very nicely;
+and as without it our list of traps would be incomplete, we will
+give an illustration of it as it appears when
+<a name="page_59"><span class="page">Page 59</span></a>
+set and ready for its work. In constructing the affair it is first
+necessary to cut a flexible twig of willow or bramble about eighteen
+inches in length, and form it into a loop as seen at (<i>a</i>),
+securing the tips by a few circuits of string, and allowing the
+larger end to project an inch or more beyond the other. This loop,
+which is called the "spreader," should now be laid down flat; and
+on the upper side of the large end and about an inch from its tip,
+a notch should be cut as our illustration shows. The spring should
+next be procured, and should consist of a pliant, elastic switch,
+about four feet in length. A piece of fish line about two feet
+long, should now be fastened to the tip of the switch, and the
+loose end of the cord attached to a catch piece of the shape shown
+at (<i>b</i>). This catch may be about an inch and a half long,
+and should be whittled off to an edge on one end, the string being
+attached at about its centre. A slipping noose, made from strong
+horse hair, or piece of fine wire about two feet long, should now
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 278px;">
+  <img src="images/fig040.jpg" width="278" height="132" alt="Figure 40">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+be fastened to the string about two inches above the catch. Having
+the switch thus prepared, it is ready to be inserted in the ground
+at the place selected for the trap. When this is done, another
+small flexible twig about a foot in length should cut, and being
+sharpened at both ends, should be inserted in the ground in the
+form of an arch (<i>c</i>), at about three feet distant from the
+spring, and having its broad side toward it. Insert the notch of
+the spreader exactly under the top of the arc, and note the spot
+where the curved end of the former touches the ground. At this
+point a peg (<i>d</i>) should be driven leaving a projecting portion
+of about two inches. The pieces are now ready to be
+<a name="page_60"><span class="page">Page 60</span></a>
+adjusted. Pass the curved end of the spreader over the peg, bringing
+the notched end beneath the arc with the notch uppermost. Draw down
+the catch piece, and pass it beneath the arc from the opposite
+side letting the bevelled end catch in the notch in the spreader,
+the other end resting against the upper part of the arc. Arrange
+the slipping noose over the spreader as our drawing indicates,
+bringing it <i>inside</i> the peg, as there shown, as otherwise
+it would catch upon it when the snare is sprung. Strew the bait,
+consisting of berries, bird-seed, or the like, <i>inside</i> the
+spreader, and all is ready. Presently a little bird is seen to
+settle on the ground in the neighborhood of the trap; he spies
+the bait and hopping towards it, gradually makes bold enough to
+alight upon the spreader, which by his weight immediately falls,
+the catch is released, the switch flies up, and the unlucky bird
+dangles in the air by the legs. If the trapper is near he can easily
+release the struggling creature before it is at all injured, otherwise
+it will flutter itself into a speedy death.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE IMPROVED SPRINGLE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The accompanying cut illustrates an improvement on the last mentioned
+trap, whereby it can be used for the capture of larger game, and
+with most excellent success. In place of the "spreader" a crotched
+stick is used, the crotch of which catches around the peg, the other
+end being supplied with a notch as in the case of the spreader.
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 325px;">
+  <img src="images/fig041.jpg" width="325" height="171" alt="Figure 41">
+</span>
+
+On the upper side of this stick a small pasteboard platform is
+tacked, over which and beneath which the bait is thrown. Instead
+of the arc, a stout crotch stick is substituted. The noose should
+be at least ten inches in diameter and constructed of sucker wire.
+It should be arranged on the ground around the bait and inside
+of the peg. When the snare is set, the crotched end of the bait
+stick will thus rest near the earth, the notched end only being
+lifted in order to reach the catch piece. It is well to insert
+a few small sticks inside the edge of the noose in order to keep
+it in correct position. If properly set, the quail or partridge
+in approaching the
+<a name="page_61"><span class="page">Page 61</span></a>
+trap will have to step <i>inside</i> the noose in order to reach
+the bait, and while thus regaling itself with a choice meal of
+oats, berries, or other delicacies, will be sure to press upon the
+bait stick either by pecking, or treading upon it, and will thus
+set the catch piece free, only to find itself secured by a grasp
+from which he will never escape alive. This is a very effectual
+snare; but on account of its securing its victim by the legs and
+thus torturing them to death, it is to be deprecated. We would
+recommend in preference, those varieties already described as being
+fully as successful, and far less cruel. They effect almost instant
+death, either by broken necks or strangulation, and are in this
+regard among the most humane traps on record.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For simplicity in construction there are few snare traps which
+can compare with this variety, although it is somewhat similar
+to those last mentioned, and like them, catches by the feet. The
+trap consists of three pieces. A catch piece about three inches
+long, a bait stick of about six inches, and a stout crotch of the
+proportionate size shown in our illustration, a glance at which
+will make the setting too clear to need description. Be careful
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 335px;">
+  <img src="images/fig042.jpg" width="335" height="171" alt="Figure 42">
+</span>
+
+that the bait stick is set <i>fine</i> and rests <i>just beneath</i>
+the <i>tip</i> of the catch-piece so that a mere touch on the bait
+will release it. Arrange the noose as in the instance last described,
+and bait either as therein directed or with an apple or nubbin
+of corn, as our accompanying cut indicates. Always remembering
+that the noose should be sufficiently large to require the birds
+to step <i>inside</i> of it in order to reach the bait.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE PLATFORM SNARE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This odd invention will be found to work capitally as a game trap,
+and the only extra requisite necessary consists of a slab or light
+board about seven inches wide, and a foot in length. Having selected
+the spot for the trap, proceed to cut a stiff
+<a name="page_62"><span class="page">Page 62</span></a>
+switch about five feet in length, and having sharpened the larger
+end to a nice point, insert it firmly into the ground in a slanting
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 359px;">
+  <img src="images/fig043.jpg" width="359" height="217" alt="Figure 43">
+</span>
+
+direction as our drawing illustrates. Next bend down the tip of
+the sapling, and resting one end of the board on the ground, catch
+the tip of the switch against the other end, as our illustration
+also shows. A little experimenting will soon determine the right
+place for the board, after which two pegs should be driven in the
+ground at its edge to hold it against the pressure on the opposite
+end. This being done fasten a wire noose to the tip of the switch,
+after which the pen is the only thing required. This should be
+built of simple little twigs arranged around three sides of the
+board, leaving the front end open. To set the snare, lower the
+switch and raising the board slightly at the back end, catch the
+tip of the springer behind it, afterwards arranging the noose over
+the platform, and scattering the bait inside. If the trap has been
+constructed properly and set "fine" it will take but a very slight
+weight on the platform to lower it from its bearing, the weight of
+an ordinary bird being sufficient, and the springer thus released
+will fly forward either catching its victim by the neck or legs,
+as the case may be. It may sometimes be found necessary to cut
+a slight notch in the end of the springer to receive the board,
+but in every case it should be tried several times in order to
+be sure that it works sensitively.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<a name="page_63"><span class="page">Page 63</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig044.jpg" width="515" height="753"
+ alt="TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME">
+<!-- Including page 64 reference because it is used in the index. -->
+<a name="page_64"></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_65"><span class="page">Page 65</span></a>
+BOOK III.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="subtitle">TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.</p>
+
+<p><img src="images/fig045.jpg" width="173" height="255" alt="A"
+ style="float: left;">mong the following will be found the various net
+and cage traps commonly used in the capture of winged game, besides
+several other unique devices in the shape of box traps, etc., many
+of which are original with the author of this work and appear in
+the present volume for the first time in book form. Commonest among
+bird-catching machines, is the well known invention of
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE SIEVE TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This device certainly possesses one great advantage:&mdash;<i>it
+is not complicated</i>. Any one possessed of a sieve and a piece
+of string can get up the trap at two minutes' notice, and provided
+he has patience, and can wait for his little bird, he is almost
+sure to be rewarded for his pains,&mdash;if he wait long enough.
+This of course depends upon circumstances: when the birds are plenty
+and are not shy, it is a common thing to secure three or four at
+once in a very few minutes, while at other times an hour's patient
+waiting is unrewarded.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trap consists only of a sieve tilted up on edge and thus propped
+in position by a slender stick. To this stick a string or thread is
+attached and the same carried to some near place of concealment,
+when the trapper may retire out of sight and watch for his "little
+bird." The ground beneath the sieve is strewn with bread crumbs,
+seed or other bait, and while the unsuspecting birds are enjoying
+their repast, the string is pulled and they are made prisoners.
+The sieve may be arranged with a spindle as described for the coop
+trap, <a href="#page_68">page (68)</a>, and may thus be left to
+take care of
+<a name="page_66"><span class="page">Page 66</span></a>
+itself. Where the birds are plenty and easily captured, the former
+method answers the purpose perfectly, but when tedious waiting
+is likely to ensue the self-acting trap is better.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BRICK TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is a very old invention, and has always been one of the three
+or four stereotyped specimens of traps selected for publication in
+all Boys' Books. It is probably well known to most of our readers.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Take four bricks, and arrange them on the ground, as seen in our
+engraving, letting them rest on their <i>narrow</i> sides. If properly
+arranged, they should have a space between them, nearly as large
+as the broad surface of the brick. A small, forked twig of the
+shape shown in the separate drawing (<i>b</i>) having a small piece
+cut away from each side of the end, should then be procured. Next
+cut a slender stick, about four inches in length, bluntly pointed
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 379px;">
+  <img src="images/fig046.jpg" width="379" height="224" alt="Figure 46">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+at each end. A small plug with a flat top should now be driven
+into the ground, inside the trap, about three inches from either
+of the end bricks and projecting about two inches from the ground.
+The trap is then ready to be set. Lay the flat end of the forked
+twig over the top of the plug, with the forks pointing forward,
+or toward the end of the enclosure nearest the plug. The pointed
+stick should then be adjusted, placing one end on the flat end of
+the fork, over the plug, and the other beneath the fifth brick,
+which should be rested upon it. The drawing (<i>b</i>) clearly shows
+the arrangement of the pieces. The bait, consisting of berries,
+bird-seed, or other similar substances should then be scattered
+on the ground on the inside of the enclosure. When
+<a name="page_67"><span class="page">Page 67</span></a>
+the bird flies to the trap he will generally alight on the forked
+twig, which by his weight tilts to one side and dislodges the pieces,
+thus letting fall the sustained brick.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is not intended to kill the bird, and when rightly constructed
+will capture it alive. Care is necessary in setting the topmost
+brick in such a position that it will fall aright, and completely
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 176px;">
+  <img src="images/fig047.jpg" width="176" height="183" alt="Figure 47">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+cover the open space. This is a very simple and effectual little
+contrivance, and can be made with a <i>box</i> instead of bricks,
+if desired. A piece of board may also be substituted for the top
+brick, and the enclosure beneath made larger by spreading the bricks
+further apart, thus making a more roomy dungeon for the captive
+bird.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE COOP TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and large
+feathered game, and is used to a considerable extent by trappers
+throughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures its victims
+without harm and furnishes the additional advantage of good ventilation
+for the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary coop may be used in the
+construction of this trap, although the homely one we illustrate
+is most commonly employed on account of its simplicity and easy
+manufacture. It also does away with the troublesome necessity of
+carrying a coop to the trapping ground, as it can be made in a
+very few minutes with common rough hewn twigs by the clever use
+of the jack knife. The only remaining requisites consist of a few
+yards of very stout Indian twine, several small squares of brown
+pasteboard, a dozen tacks and a number of pieces of board five
+inches square, each one having a hole through its centre, as our
+engraving (<i>b</i>) indicates. Having these, the young trapper
+starts out with material sufficient
+<a name="page_68"><span class="page">Page 68</span></a>
+for several coops, and if he is smart will find no difficulty in
+making and setting a dozen traps in a forenoon.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cut
+four stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen inches
+in length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knot
+come on the inside as our illustration (<i>a</i>) explains and
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 502px;">
+  <img src="images/fig048.jpg" width="502" height="518" alt="Figure 48">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+leaving a loose length of about two feet of string from each corner.
+This forms the base of the coop. Next collect from a number of
+twigs of about the same thickness, and from them select two more
+corresponding in length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the
+base of the coop on the ground, and collected the strings inside
+proceed to lay the two selected sticks across the ends of the
+<a name="page_69"><span class="page">Page 69</span></a>
+uppermost two of the square, and directly above the lower two.
+Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cut
+and laid across the ends of the last two, and directly above the
+second set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of equal
+size, one directly over the other. The next pair of sticks should
+be a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be placed a
+little inside the square. Let the next two be of the same size as
+the last and also rest a little inside of those beneath them, thus
+forming the commencement of the conical shape which our engraving
+presents. By thus continuing alternate layers of the two sticks
+cob-house fashion, each layer being closer than the one previous,
+the pyramid will be easily and quickly formed. After ten or a dozen
+sets have been laid in place, the arm should be introduced into
+the opening at the top, and the four cords drawn out, letting each
+one lay along its inside corner of the pyramid. Taking the strings
+loosely in the left hand and having the twigs in readiness, proceed
+to build up the sides until the opening at the top is reduced to
+only four or five inches across. The square board will now come
+into play. Pass the ends of the cords through the hole in its centre
+and rest the edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, taking
+care that it is the tip of the grain of the wood instead of its
+side, as otherwise it would be likely to crack from the pressure
+that is about to be brought upon it. Have ready a stout peg of
+hard wood, and laying it over the hole in the board, and between
+the strings, proceed to tie the latter as tightly as possible over
+it. By now turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightened
+and the various pieces of the coops will be drawn together with
+great firmness, in which state they may be secured by the aid of
+a tack driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shown
+at (<i>b</i>). Thus we have a neat and serviceable coop, which will
+last for many seasons. To <i>set</i> the affair it is necessary
+to cut three sticks of the shapes shown in our illustration. The
+prop piece is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length
+from the tip to the base of the crotch. The spindle is another
+hooked twig of the same length: the bait piece is quite similar
+to the latter, only an inch shorter and supplied with a square
+notch at the tip. It is also slightly whittled off on the upper
+side to receive the square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold
+the bait and which may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of
+these twigs may be easily found in any thicket by a little practice
+in searching. In setting the trap, it is only necessary to raise
+up one side of the coop to the height of the prop stick, insert
+the short arm of the
+<a name="page_70"><span class="page">Page 70</span></a>
+spindle through the fork and beneath the edge of the coop. While
+holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of the bait stick
+around the lower piece at the back of the coop, and pushing the
+end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the notch of the
+bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to be baited.
+The bait may consist of oats, wheat, "nannie berries" or the like,
+and should be strewn both on the platform and over the ground directly
+<i>beneath</i> and around it. If properly set, a mere peck at the
+corn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the coop will
+fall over its captive. It is not an uncommon thing to find two
+or even three quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one fall,
+and after the first momentary fright is over, they seem to resign
+themselves to their fate and take to their confinement as naturally
+as if they had been brought up to it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The method of setting the coop trap above described is a great
+improvement on the old style of setting, and is an improvement
+original with the author of this work. In the old method a semi-circular
+hoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick above. The ends
+of the rattan are fastened to one of the lower back pieces of the
+coop, and the hoop is just large enough to fit inside the opening of
+the coop. This rattan rests just above the ground, and the spindle
+catches against its inside edge in place of the notch in the bait
+stick already described, the bait being scattered inside the hoop.
+When the bird approaches, it steps upon the rattan, and thus pressing
+it downward releases the spindle and the coop falls; but experience
+has shown the author that it does not always secure its intruders,
+but as often falls upon their backs and sends them off limping to
+regain their lost senses. By the author's improvement it will be
+seen that the whole body of the bird <i>must</i> be <i>beneath</i>
+the coop before the bait sticks can be reached and that when properly
+set it is absolutely certain to secure its victim. The author can
+recommend it as infallible, and he feels certain that anyone giving
+both methods a fair trial will discard the old method as worthless
+in comparison.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BAT FOWLING NET.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With English bird-catchers this contrivance is in common use, but
+so far as we know it has not been utilized to any great extent in
+this country. It is chiefly used at night by the aid of a lantern,
+and large numbers of sparrows and other birds are often secured.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_71"><span class="page">Page 71</span></a>
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the net, which may be
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 218px;">
+  <img src="images/fig049.jpg" width="218" height="507" alt="Figure 49">
+</span>
+
+constructed as follows: Procure two light flexible poles, about
+eight feet in length; to the tip of each a cord should be attached,
+and the same secured to the middle of the pole, having drawn down
+the tip to the bend, shown in our engraving. The two bent ends
+should now be attached together by a hinge of leather. A piece
+of mosquito netting is next in order, and it should be of such
+a size as to cover the upper bent halves of the poles, as seen
+in the illustration&mdash;the bottom edge being turned up into a
+bag, about ten inches in depth. The contrivance is now complete,
+and is used as follows: Three persons are generally required, and
+a dark night is chosen. Hay stacks, evergreens, and thick bushes
+offer a favorite shelter to numerous small birds, and it is here that
+they are sought by the bird-hunters. A breezy night is preferable,
+as the birds perch low, and are not so easily startled by unusual
+sounds.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Great caution, however, is used in the approach. One party holds
+the light, which is generally a <i>dark</i> lantern, another takes
+the net, and the third arms himself with a switch with which to
+beat the bushes. The net is first held upright about a foot from
+the bush, and the light thrown upon the back of it. The bush is
+then moderately beaten, and the birds affrighted and bewildered
+fly against the net, which is instantly closed. The bird is thus
+captured, and when a full roost can be discovered a large number
+may be taken in a single night. The lantern should be closed while
+not in actual use, and everything should be done as quietly as
+possible. The dark lantern in itself is useful without the net.
+The light often so bewilders the bird that it flies directly in
+the face of the lantern and flutters to the ground, where it may
+be easily taken with the hand.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_72"><span class="page">Page 72</span></a>
+THE CLAP NET.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, this trap is a common
+resource for the capture of wild birds of various kinds. It may be
+called a "decoy" trap, from the fact that "call birds" are generally
+used in connection with it. They are placed at distances around the
+trap, and attract the wild birds to the spot by their cries. These
+birds are especially trained for the purpose, but almost any tamed
+bird that chirps will attract its mates from the near neighborhood,
+and answer the purpose very well. Sometimes the "decoys" are entirely
+dispensed with, and the "bird whistle" used in their stead. This
+will be described hereafter, and inasmuch as the training of a
+"decoy" would be a rather difficult matter, we rather recommend
+the use of the bird whistle. The skill and absolute perfection of
+mimicry which is often attained by bird fanciers with the use
+of this little whistle, is something surprising.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig050.jpg" width="491" height="277" alt="Figure 50">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+No matter what the species of bird&mdash;whether crow, bobolink,
+thrush or sparrow, the song or call is so exactly imitated as to
+deceive the most experienced naturalist, and even various birds
+themselves. Of course this requires practice, but even a tyro may
+soon learn to use the whistle to good advantage.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The clap net commonly used, is a large contrivance&mdash;so large
+that several hundred pigeons are often caught at once. It is "sprung"
+by the bird-hunter, who lies in ambush watching for the game. The
+net is generally constructed as follows, and may be made smaller
+if desired:&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_73"><span class="page">Page 73</span></a>
+Procure two pieces of strong thread netting, each about fifteen
+feet in length, and five feet in width. Four wooden rods one inch
+in thickness and five feet in length are next required. These may
+be constructed of pine, ash, or any other light wood, and one should
+be securely whipped to each end of the netting.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Now by the aid of a gimlet or a red-hot iron, the size of a slate
+pencil, bore a hole through one end of every piece one inch from
+the tip, taking care that the ends selected lay on the same side of
+the net. The other extremities of the four poles should be supplied,
+each with a large screw eye. Four pegs are next in order&mdash;one of
+which is shown separate at (<i>P</i>). It should be about eight inches
+in length, and three inches in width, and an inch in thickness, and
+sharpened to a point at one end. The other end should be supplied
+with a notch two inches in depth and of such a width as will easily
+secure the perforated end of one of the poles already described.
+By the use of the gimlet or a red-hot nail, a hole should now be
+bored through the side of every peg across the centre of the notch
+for the reception of a wire pin or smooth nail.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The nets may now be rolled up on the poles, and the trapper may
+thus easily carry them to his selected trapping ground. This should
+be smooth and free from stones and irregularities. Unroll the nets
+and spread them flatly on the ground, as seen in the illustration.
+Let the perforated ends of the poles be innermost, and allow a
+space of six feet between the inner edges of the nets. Draw the
+net flatly on the ground, and drive one of the notched pegs at
+each of the inside corners, securing the poles into the slots by
+the aid of the wire pins or nails. Next cut four stakes eight or
+ten inches long. The places for these may be seen by a look at our
+engraving. Each one should be inserted <i>five feet</i> distant
+from the notched peg, and <i>exactly</i> on a line with the
+<i>inside</i> edge of the net&mdash;one for each corner. They should
+slant from the net in every case. To each one of these stakes a
+stay-rope should be secured, and the other end passed through the
+screw eye of the nearest pole, drawing the string tightly, so as
+to stretch the net perfectly square. Next, take a piece of cord,
+about twenty feet in length, and fasten it across the ends of the
+net into the screw eyes in the poles. This is the loop to which the
+draw-string is attached, and either end of the net may be chosen
+for this purpose. To this loop and a <i>little one side of the
+middle</i>, the draw-string should be fastened. If secured exactly
+in the middle of the loop, the two nets will <i>strike</i> when
+the draw-rope is pulled, whereas when adjusted
+<a name="page_74"><span class="page">Page 74</span></a>
+a little to one side, the nearest net will move a trifle faster
+than the other, and they will overlap neatly and without
+striking&mdash;completely covering the ground between them. When
+the trap is spread the draw-rope should extend to some near shelter
+where the bird-catcher may secrete himself from view. Spreading the
+bait on the ground between the nets, and arranging his call birds
+at the proper distances, he awaits his opportunity of springing
+his nets. At the proper minute, when the ground is dotted with his
+game, he pulls the draw-string, and the birds are secured.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Immense numbers of wild fowl are often captured in this way.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The "bird whistle," already alluded to, is often used with good
+effect, it being only sufficient to attract the birds to such a
+proximity to the net as will enable them to spy the bait, after
+which their capture is easily effected.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BIRD WHISTLE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This instrument, also known as the prairie whistle, is clearly
+shown in our illustration. It is constructed as follows: First,
+procure a piece of morocco or thin leather. From it cut a circular
+piece one inch and a quarter in diameter. Through the centre of
+this disc, cut a round hole, one-third of an inch in diameter. A
+semi-circular piece of tin is next required. It should be of the
+shape of an arc, as seen in our illustration; its width across
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 123px;">
+  <img src="images/fig051.jpg" width="123" height="208" alt="Figure 51">
+</span>
+
+the ends being about three-quarters of an inch, and its entire
+length being pierced with a row of fine holes. Next procure a piece
+of thin sheet India rubber or gold beater's skin. Cut a strip about
+an inch in length by half an inch in width, and lay one of its long
+edges directly across the opening in the leather disc. Fold the
+leather in half (over the rubber), and draw the latter tightly. Next
+lay on the arc of tin in the position shown in the illustration, and
+by the aid of a fine needle and thread sew it through the holes,
+including both leather and rubber in the stitches. When this is
+done, the whistle is complete. If the gold beater's skin is not
+attainable, a good substitute may be found in the thin outer membrane
+of the leaf of a tough onion or leak, the pulp being scraped away.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_75"><span class="page">Page 75</span></a>
+To use the whistle, place it against the roof of the mouth, tin
+side up, and with the edge of the rubber towards the front. When
+once wet, it will adhere to the roof of the mouth, and by skilful
+blowing, it can be made to send forth a most surprising variety
+of sounds. The quack of the duck and the song of the thrush may
+be made to follow each other in a single breath, and the squeal
+of a pig or the neigh of a horse are equally within its scope. In
+short, there is scarcely any animal, whether bird or quadruped,
+the cry of which may not be easily imitated by a skilful use of
+the prairie whistle, or, indeed, as it might with propriety be
+called, the "menagerie whistle."
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE WILD GOOSE TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In our northern cold regions, where the wild geese and ptarmigan
+flock in immense numbers, this trap is commonly utilized. It consists
+merely of a large net fifty feet in length, and fifteen in width,
+arranged on a framework, and propped in a slanting position by
+two poles, after the manner of the sieve trap. It is generally
+set on the ice; and the trapper, after attaching his strings to
+the props, and sprinkling his bait at the foot of the net, retires
+to a distance to await his chances. Tame geese are often used as
+decoys, and sometimes the bird whistle already described is used
+for the same purpose. For the capture of the ptarmigan, the bait
+consists of a heap of gravel. It is hard to imagine a less tempting
+allurement, but as the food of the birds during the winter is sapless
+and hard, it becomes necessary for them to swallow a considerable
+amount of gravel to promote digestion. The great depth of the snow
+renders this commodity very scarce during the winter season; and
+the Indians, taking advantage of this fact, succeed in capturing
+immense numbers of the game in nets by the use of that simple
+allurement. The gravel is packed on the surface of a pile of snow,
+placed under the centre of the net, and the draw-string is carried
+to some neighboring shrubbery or place of concealment, where the
+trapper can always get at it without being seen by the birds under
+the net.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When everything is thus prepared, the hunters start out into the
+adjacent woods and willows, and drive their game toward the nets.
+This is generally an easy matter, and, no sooner do the birds come
+in sight of the heap of gravel, than they fly towards it <i>en
+masse</i>, and the ground beneath the net is soon
+<a name="page_76"><span class="page">Page 76</span></a>
+covered with the hungry game. The hunter then goes to the end of
+the line, and, with a sudden pull, hauls down the stakes: the net
+fans over the birds, and they are prisoners.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Hundreds of ptarmigan are often thus caught by a single sweep of
+the net. The trap is simply arranged, and may be constructed on
+a reduced scale for smaller birds, if desired.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE TRAP CAGE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Among bird-catchers generally, this is the favorite and most universal
+trap; and, where a <i>decoy</i> bird is used, it is particularly
+successful. The cage is arranged in two compartments,
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 413px;">
+  <img src="images/fig052.jpg" width="413" height="506" alt="Figure 52">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+<a name="page_77"><span class="page">Page 77</span></a>
+one above the other,&mdash;the lower one being occupied by the
+call-birds. The making of the cage requires considerable ingenuity
+and much patience; and, for the benefit of those who may desire
+to exercise that patient ingenuity, we will subjoin a few hints,
+which may help them along in their efforts. For an ordinary cage,
+the height should be about one foot, the broad sides the same, and
+the top and other two sides eight inches. First cut four corner
+uprights. These should be three-quarters of an inch square, and one
+foot in length. Next cut a bottom board of pine, twelve inches by
+eight inches, and one inch in thickness. From each of its corners,
+cut a small cube of the wood, exactly three-quarters of an inch
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 479px;">
+  <img src="images/fig053.jpg" width="479" height="273" alt="Figure 53">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+square, thus leaving four notches, which will exactly receive the
+ends of the uprights, as seen at (<i>a</i>). Before adjusting these
+pieces, the four sides of the boards should be pierced with small
+holes, as is also shown in the diagram (<i>a</i>). These may be
+punched with a brad-awl, and should be about half an inch apart,
+and three-eighths of an inch from the edge of the board. Each one
+of the uprights may then be secured in place by two long brads, one
+being hammered each way into each side of the notch. Next proceed
+to cut four more of the square sticks. Two of these should be one
+foot in length, and the remaining two eight inches. The corners
+of these should now be neatly bevelled off, so as to fit after
+the manner of a picture-frame. They should then be attached to
+<a name="page_78"><span class="page">Page 78</span></a>
+the upper ends of the uprights by a brad through the corner of
+each, as seen at (<i>b</i>), the dotted lines indicating the end
+of the upright beneath. These sticks should likewise be pierced
+with holes to correspond with those in the bottom board, and running
+up and down in the direction of the wires.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The middle tier of braces are next required. Two of these should be
+ten and a half inches in length, and the other two six and a-half,
+and the ends should be perfectly smooth. These should now be punched
+with holes corresponding with those above, after which they may
+be inserted between the uprights as seen in the engraving, and
+secured by a brad at each end.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trap door is shown separate at (<i>c</i>). The side sticks
+should be eight inches in length, and one-half an inch square,
+and the top and bottom sticks five inches in length. They should
+be set in <i>between</i> the side sticks, and the lower one should
+be secured about half an inch above the lower ends of the uprights,
+as seen in the illustration. The holes should be made in the side
+pieces, and the wire run across from side to side, as shown. Annealed
+iron, or copper wire is best for this purpose. The door should
+now be pivoted or hinged at the top of the cage, between the long
+sides, in such a position as that the top end shall rest on one of
+the narrow upper edges of the cage. A stiff wire should be used
+for the hinge, being passed through the top pieces of the cage
+into the lower ends of the door pieces. The cage may now be wired
+throughout. This is an easy matter, if the holes are properly made.
+About thirty yards of the wire will be required: iron wire is generally
+used. It should be about the size of a hair-pin, and should work
+easily. Commence by passing it from the under side of the bottom
+board through one of the holes next to the corner. Pass the wire
+upward, through the centre braces, again upward through the top
+piece and across to the opposite broad side and corresponding hole.
+From this point it should pass downwards, through centre brace,
+and again through the bottom. Draw the wire tightly and passing
+it upward through the hole next to it, bring it over the top of
+the cage and around again to the bottom edge from which it started.
+Continue thus until the hinge of the door is reached; after which
+the wire should be passed up and down on the same side and thus
+carried around the small end of the cage until it finally meets
+at the door hinge on the opposite side. The two halves of the cage
+should now be separated by a grating of wire, as seen in the main
+illustration. This
+<a name="page_79"><span class="page">Page 79</span></a>
+may be accomplished either by passing the wire from side to side,
+around the base of each upright wire, or an additional horizontal
+row of holes below the others may be punched for the purpose. The
+door through which the call-bird is introduced should next be made
+in the bottom section. There are two ways of doing this: one method
+consists in sawing a hole three inches square in the bottom board
+of the cage; and a cover consisting of a piece of tin is made to
+slide beneath the heads of four tacks, two of which are placed on
+each side of the opening. This form of door is perhaps the simplest
+of the two. The other is shown separate at (<i>f</i>), together
+with its mode of attachment.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It consists of two side pieces of wood, about a third of an inch
+square, and three inches in length, and two shorter ones, two inches
+in length. These are arranged into a square framework by a board
+in each corner. Four holes are to be pierced in each side piece,
+at equal distances. Commencing at the top, the door should then
+be wired as directed for the cage. The lowest hole on each side
+should be left open for a separate piece of wire. The cage should
+now receive attention. The broad side is generally selected for
+the door. Find the seven centre wires and connect them across the
+middle by another horizontal bit of wire. This may be easily done
+with a pair of pincers, by compressing a loop at each end of the
+wire around the two which run perpendicularly at its ends. When this
+is performed the five intermediate wires should be cut off about
+a quarter of an inch below the horizontal wire, and the projecting
+tips looped back over the cross piece, and made fast by the pincers.
+The lower parts of the upright wires may now be cut off close to the
+board. We will now take up the door. Pass a piece of wire through
+the holes at the bottom, clap the door over the opening, and loop
+the ends of the projecting wire loosely around the upright wires
+at each side. This will allow the door to slide easily up and down.
+Another wire should now be interlaced downwards through the centre
+of the door, and bent into a ring at the top. Let the door rest
+on the bottom of the cage, and, while in this position, adjust
+the ring at the top around the central wire directly behind it.
+The door is then complete, and, if properly made, will look neat
+and work easily.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The "trap" at the top of the cage is next in order. To complete
+this it is first necessary to interweave a <i>stiff</i> wire loop,
+as seen at (<i>d</i>). The loop should extend on the <i>inside</i>
+of the lower piece of the door and about two inches below it. The
+<a name="page_80"><span class="page">Page 80</span></a>
+<i>spring</i> power consists of a piece of stiff hoop-skirt wire,
+interwoven between the wires of the top of the cage, and those
+of the door, while the latter is shut. The force of this will be
+sufficient to bring down the door with a snap; and for further
+security a catch, such as is described in <a href="#page_88">page
+(88)</a>, may be added if desired.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The spindle is next required. This is shown at (<i>g</i>), and
+consists of a small perch of wood seven inches in length, and notched
+at each end. In setting the trap, the door should be raised as
+seen in the main illustration. One of the notches in the spindle
+should now be caught beneath the loop and the other around one of
+the central wires in the end of the cage. The bait, consisting
+of a berry, bird-seed, or what-not, may be either fastened to the
+spindle or placed beneath on the wires. The call-bird having been
+introduced, the trap may now be left to itself. If the call-bird
+is well trained it will not be many minutes before the birds of
+the neighborhood will be attracted to the spot by its cries. Ere
+long one less cautious than the rest will be seen to perch upon
+the top of the cage. He soon discovers the bait, and alighting
+upon the perch, throws it asunder, and in an instant the trap door
+closes over its captive. The cage is sometimes constructed double,
+having two compartments beneath for call-birds, and two traps above,
+in general resembling two of the single traps placed side by side.
+The decoy bird is not an absolute necessity to the success of the
+trap. Many birds are caught simply by the bait alone. The trap
+cage, when constructed on a larger scale, is often successfully
+employed in the capture of the owl. In this case it is baited with
+a live mouse or bird, and set during the evening in a conspicuous
+place. A trap working on this principle, being especially adapted
+to the capture of the owl, will be noticed hereafter.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE SPRING NET TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Although slightly complicated in construction, our next illustration
+presents one of the prettiest bird traps on record, and may be
+made in the following manner, and by frequently referring to the
+picture, our explanation will be easily understood.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The first step is to make or procure a low flat box, about fifteen
+inches long, by ten inches in width, with a depth of about two
+inches. Next fasten an interior box, of the same
+<a name="page_81"><span class="page">Page 81</span></a>
+height, leaving a space of about three-quarters of an inch between
+them all round. A platform should now be made. Let it be of such a
+size that it will just fit in the interior box, with a very slight
+space all around its edge. It should then be pivoted in the upper
+part of this box by two small slender pins, one being driven through
+into its edge, at the centre of each end. Let it be sensitively
+poised. The next thing to be done, is to arrange the spindle and
+catch. The latter should consist of a tack or small bit of wood
+fastened on the middle of the platform, about an inch from one
+end, as seen both in the main illustration and in the diagram at
+(<i>b</i>).
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The spindle should consist of a flat piece of wood, secured with
+a leather hinge to the edge of the outside box, directly opposite
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 505px;">
+  <img src="images/fig054.jpg" width="505" height="244" alt="Figure 54">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+the catch. Let it be long enough to reach and barely hold itself
+beneath the catch. When thus in its position, two small plugs should
+next be driven into the edge of the inner box, one on each side of
+the spindle, thus holding it in place. A glance at our illustration
+makes this clear. The netting and "hoop" are next in order. The hoop
+should consist of an iron wire of the diameter of common telegraph
+wire.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For a box of the size we have given, a length of about twenty-eight
+inches will be found to answer. Before making the hoop, however,
+its hinges should be ready for it. Two screw eyes, or staples of
+bent wire should be driven into the bottom of the box between the
+two walls, one in the exact middle of each side. The iron wire
+should now be bent so as to fit round and settle into the space
+between the boxes, letting each end rest
+<a name="page_82"><span class="page">Page 82</span></a>
+over the screws in the bottom. It will be found that there will
+be enough surplus wire on each end to form into a loop with the
+pincers. These loops should be passed through the screws or rings
+already inserted, and then pinched together; the hinge will thus
+be made, and will appear as at (<i>c</i>). If properly done, they
+should allow the hoop to pass freely from one end of the box to
+the other, and settle easily between the partitions. If this hinge
+should prove too complicated for our young readers, they may resort
+to another method, which, although not so durable, will answer very
+well. In this case the wire will only need to reach to the exact
+middle of the long sides. No surplus being necessary, a length
+of twenty-six inches will be exactly right. On each end a short
+loop of tough Indian twine should be tied. By now fastening these
+loops to the bottom of the box with tacks, in the place of screws,
+it will form a hinge which will answer the purpose of the more
+complicated one.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig055.jpg" width="513" height="102" alt="Figure 55">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The netting should consist of common mosquito gauze, or, if this
+cannot be had, any thin cloth may be substituted. It should be
+sewed fast to the iron wire, from hinge to hinge, and then, with
+the hoops resting in its groove, the netting should be drawn over the
+platform, and tacked to the bottom of the groove, on its remaining
+half. It should rest loosely over the platform to allow plenty of
+space for the bird.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But one more addition, and the trap is finished. We have mentioned
+the use of elastics in other varieties: they are of equal use here,
+and should be attached to the hoop as seen at (<i>a</i>) in the
+section drawing, the remaining ends being fastened to the bottom
+of the groove, as there indicated. These elastics should be placed
+on both sides, and stretched to such a tension as will draw the
+hoop quickly from one side to the other.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It will now be easy to set the trap. Draw the hoop back to the
+opposite end, tucking the netting into the groove; lower the spindle
+over it, resting it between the two little plugs, and securing
+its end beneath the catch on the platform. If the bait,
+<a name="page_83"><span class="page">Page 83</span></a>
+consisting of bread-crumbs, berries, insects, or the like, be now
+sprinkled on the platform, the trap is ready for its feathered
+victim. It will easily be seen that the slightest weight on
+<i>either</i> side of this poised platform will throw the catch
+from the end of the spindle, and release the hoop and the platform
+in an instant is covered by the net, capturing whatever unlucky
+little bird may have chanced to jump upon it. This is a very pretty
+little trap, and will well repay the trouble of making it.
+</p>
+
+<h4>A SIMPLER NET TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Much ingenuity has been displayed in the construction of bird traps
+of various kinds, but often the ingenuity has been misplaced, and
+the result has been so complicated as to mar its usefulness for
+practical purposes. The examples of net traps presented in this
+volume are so simple that the merest tyro can readily understand
+them. What can be more so than the present example, and yet it is
+as sure in its effect, and <i>surer</i> than those other varieties
+of more complicated construction. One necessary element in a trap
+of any kind is, that the bearings are slight and that they spring
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 489px;">
+  <img src="images/fig056.jpg" width="489" height="162" alt="Figure 56">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+easily. To obtain this requisite it is necessary to overcome friction
+as much as possible, using only a small number of pieces, and having
+as few joints and hinges only as are absolutely necessary. The present
+variety possesses advantages on this account. It is constructed
+somewhat on the principle of the ordinary steel trap, and also
+resembles in other respects the one we have just described, although
+much simpler. We give only a section drawing, as this will be
+sufficient. The long side of a flat board of about eight by sixteen
+inches is shown at (<i>a</i>); (<i>b</i>) indicates the loops of a bent
+wire, to which the netting is attached, as in the trap just described,
+<a name="page_84"><span class="page">Page 84</span></a>
+the loops being fastened to the board as in the other variety;
+(<i>g</i>) consists of a small bit of wood an inch or so in length
+and half an inch in width. It should be tacked on to the middle
+of the one end of the board and project about a half inch above
+the surface. To the top of this the spindle (<i>c</i>) should be
+attached by a leather or staple hinge. The spindle should be of
+light pine, five inches in length and a quarter of an inch square,
+bevelled; on the under side of one end (<i>d</i>) is the catch
+or bait piece, and should be whittled out of a shingle or pine
+stick of the shape shown, the width being about a half an inch
+or less. One side should be supplied with a slight notch for the
+reception of the spindle, and the other should project out two
+or three inches, being covered on the top with a little platform
+of pasteboard, tin, or thin wood either glued or tacked in place.
+To attach this piece to the main board, two small wire staples
+may be used, one being inserted into the bottom end of the piece
+and the other being hooked through it, and afterward tacked to
+the bottom of the trap, thus forming a loop hinge. Another method
+is to make a hole through the lower tip of the bait piece by the
+aid of a red-hot wire, as seen at (<i>d</i>), afterwards inserting
+a pin and overlapping its ends with two staples driven into the
+bottom board, as shown at (<i>e</i>). In our last mentioned net
+trap the spring power consisted of rubber elastic, and the same
+may be used in this case, if desired, but by way of variety we
+here introduce another form of spring which may be successfully
+employed in the construction of traps of various kinds. It is shown
+at (<i>o</i>) and consists merely of a piece of tempered hoop iron,
+so bent as to act with an upward pressure. It should be about three
+inches long by half an inch wide. About three-quarters of an inch
+should be allowed for the two screws by which it is to be attached
+to the board. The rest should be bent upward and thus tempered by
+first heating almost to redness, and then cooling in cold water.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+One of these springs should be fastened to the board on each side,
+directly under the wire and quite near the hinge, in the position
+shown in the main drawing. Now draw back the net, lower the spindle
+and catch its extremity in the notch of the bait piece, and the trap
+is set as in our illustration. Sprinkle the bait on the platform,
+and lay the machine on the ground where birds are known to frequent;
+and it is only a matter of a few hours or perhaps minutes, before it
+will prove its efficacy. In order to prevent the bird from raising
+the wire and thereby
+<a name="page_85"><span class="page">Page 85</span></a>
+escaping, it is well to fasten a little tin catch (<i>f</i>) at
+the end of the board. This will spring over the wire and hold it
+in its place.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The following is another novelty in the way of a bird-trap, somewhat
+similar to the one we have just described, in its manner of working.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Procure two pieces of board about a foot square. Nail one to the
+edge of the other, as represented in our engraving. A stout wire
+is the next requisite. It should be about thirty inches long, and
+bent either into a curve or into two corners, making three equal
+sides. Each end of the wire should then be bent into a very small
+loop for the hinge. On to this wire the netting should then be
+secured as in the two previous examples, after which the ends of
+the wire may be tied with string or hinged on wire staples into
+the angle of the two boards, as seen in our illustration. Allow
+the wire now to lie flat on the bottom board, and then proceed
+to tack the netting around the edges of the upright board. Two
+elastics should next be fastened to the wire on each side, securing
+their loose ends to the bottom of the trap. They should be tightly
+drawn so as to bring the wire down with a snap. The spindle of
+this trap should be about eight or nine inches long, square and
+slender,&mdash;the lower end being flattened, and the upper end
+secured to the top edge of the upright board by a hinge of leather
+or string. An excellent hinge may be made with a piece of leather
+an inch and a half long, by half an inch in width, one half of the
+length being tied around the end of the spindle, and the other
+tacked on to the upper edge of the board.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The platform is given by itself at (<i>a</i>) in the same picture.
+It may be made of very thin wood&mdash;cigar box wood, for instance,
+or even thick pasteboard. It consists of three pieces. The piece
+which is hinged into the angle of the boards should be about three
+inches in length; the platform piece ought not to be more than four
+inches square, and the upright piece only long enough to reach
+the tip of the spindle when the platform is raised, as shown in our
+engraving. The hinge piece should be cut to an edge on that end
+where the leather is fastened, the opposite end being bevelled off
+in order that the platform may rest and be tacked or glued firmly
+upon it. The diagram (<i>a</i>) will make this all very clear.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When the platform is all made and fastened in its place, the
+<a name="page_86"><span class="page">Page 86</span></a>
+trap may be set. Draw the hoop back as far as possible, and lower
+the spindle over its edge, catching it behind the upright stick on
+the platform. If the trap is properly constructed, the pressure
+of the spindle on the platform will suffice to hold it up as seen
+in our illustration. The upright stick on the back of the platform
+should never be more than an inch and a half from the back of the
+trap. If need be, a slight notch may be made in the end of the
+spindle and a small tack driven into the back of the upright stick
+to correspond to it. By thus fitting the notch under the head of the
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 432px;">
+  <img src="images/fig057.jpg" width="432" height="358" alt="Figure 57">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+tack, it will be sure to hold the platform in the right position.
+But it should be carefully tested before setting, to see that it
+springs easily.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When thus set sprinkle the bait on the platform, scattering a little
+also on the bottom of the trap and on the ground directly around it.
+The little birds will soon spy the tempting morsels, and alighting
+on the trap are misled, and the slightest peck or pressure on the
+platform where the bait is most bounteously spread brings down
+the wire and net with a <i>snap</i>, and the little creature is
+secured without harm.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Our next illustration shows another method of constructing the platform.
+It should be about three or four inches square,
+<a name="page_87"><span class="page">Page 87</span></a>
+and on the middle of one of its edges the upright catch piece should
+be fastened. This piece, as will be seen in our engraving, should
+be cut spreading at the bottom so as to admit of being secured to
+the platform by two brads, the tip being cut to a point. The total
+length of this piece should not be over two and a half inches. When
+tacked in place, a third brad should be inserted between the other
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 264px;">
+  <img src="images/fig058.jpg" width="264" height="294"
+   alt="Method 2.">
+</span>
+
+two and exactly in the centre of the side of the platform. This
+latter brad is to act as the pivot, or hinge, and should project
+about a quarter of an inch, as seen at (<i>a</i>). On the opposite
+edge of the platform another larger brad should be driven, having
+its end filed to a blunt point, as in (<i>b</i>). If the filing
+would be too tedious, a plug of hard wood of the required shape
+would answer every purpose. The upright props which support the
+platform should be cut of thin wood. Let one be an inch and a half
+long and half an inch wide, the other being an inch in length.
+Each should have one end whittled to a point, which will admit
+of its being inserted in a gimlet hole in the bottom of the trap.
+These gimlet holes should be made at least half an inch in depth.
+Make the first at about an inch or so from the back of the trap.
+Into this insert the shorter pieces, broadside front. Lay the pivot
+brad of the platform on the top of this piece and insert over it
+a small wire staple, as seen at (<i>a</i>). Elevate the platform
+evenly and determine the spot for the other gimlet hole, which
+should be directly beneath the point of the filed brad. Be sure
+that it is in the middle of the board, so that the platform may
+set squarely, and be perfectly parallel with the sides. Insert
+the remaining prop in its place, and the platform is complete. The
+overhanging spindle now requires a little attention. This should
+be whittled off on each side, bringing it to a point at the tip.
+On each side of the spindle a long plug should then be driven into
+the back piece, as our illustration shows. These should be far
+enough apart to allow the spindle to pass easily between them. The
+<i>setting</i> of the trap is plainly shown in our
+<a name="page_88"><span class="page">Page 88</span></a>
+engraving. The spindle being lowered between the plugs is caught
+finely on the tip of the catch-piece. The blunt point at the opposite
+end of the platform should have a slight hollow made for it in the
+prop against which it presses. If the platform be now strewn with
+bait, the little machine is ready. It is certainly very simple and
+will be found very effective.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BOX OWL TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The use of a box trap for the capture of an owl is certainly an
+odd idea, but we nevertheless illustrate a contrivance which has
+been successfully used for that purpose.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The box in this case should be of the proportions shown in our
+engraving, and well ventilated with holes, as indicated. (This
+ventilation is, by-the-way, a good feature to introduce in <i>all</i>
+traps.) Having made or selected a suitable box&mdash;say, fourteen
+or more inches wide, provided with a cover, working on a
+hinge&mdash;proceed to fasten on the outside of the lid a loop
+of stiff wire, bent in the shape shown at (<i>e</i>). This may be
+fastened to the cover by means of small staples, or even tacks, and
+should project over the edge about two inches. When this is done,
+the lid should be raised to the angle shown in our illustration,
+and the spot where the end of the wire loop touches the back of the
+box should be marked and a slit cut through the wood at this place,
+large enough for the angle of the loop to pass through. Two elastics
+should now be fastened to the inside of the box, being secured to
+the bottom at the side, and the other to the edge of the cover,
+as seen in the illustration. They should be sufficiently strong to
+draw down the cover quickly. The perch, or spindle, should consist
+of a light stick of wood, as shown at (<i>b</i>,) one end provided
+with a slight notch, and the other fastened to the inside of the
+front of the box by a string or leather hinge, (<i>c</i>,) keeping
+the notch on the <i>upper</i> side of the stick. It will be now seen
+that by opening the cover, until the loop enters through the groove,
+and by then hooking the notch in the spindle <i>under</i> the loop
+as seen at (<i>a</i>) the trap will be set, and if properly done
+it will be found that a very slight weight on the spindle will set
+it free from the loop and let the cover down with swiftness.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+To secure the cover in place a small tin catch should now be applied
+to the front edge of the box, as shown in the illustration. A piece
+of tin two inches in length by a half an inch in breadth will answer
+for this purpose. One end should be bent
+<a name="page_89"><span class="page">Page 89</span></a>
+down half an inch at a pretty sharp angle, and the other attached
+by two tacks, to the edge of the box, in the position shown in
+the cut. This precaution will effectually prevent the escape of
+whatever bird, large or small, the trap may chance to secure. It
+is a necessary feature of the trap, as without it the elastics
+might be torn asunder and the lid thereby easily raised.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This trap may be baited in a variety of ways. As it is particularly
+designed for a <i>bird</i> trap, it is well to sprinkle the bottom
+of the box with berries, bird-seed, small insects, such as crickets,
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 478px;">
+  <img src="images/fig059.jpg" width="478" height="408" alt="Figure 59">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+grasshoppers, etc. These latter are very apt to jump out, and it
+may be well to fasten one or two of them to the bottom with a pin
+through the body, just behind the head.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are many kinds of birds which live almost exclusively on
+insects; and as this bait is of rather a lively kind, there is
+scarcely any other method to retain them in their position. A bird
+on approaching this trap will almost irresistibly alight on the
+perch, and if not at <i>first</i>, it is generally sure to do so
+before long. If desired, a pasteboard platform may be fastened on
+<a name="page_90"><span class="page">Page 90</span></a>
+the top of the perch with small tacks, and the bait scattered upon
+it. This will act in the same manner, and might, perhaps, be a
+trifle more certain. We will leave it to our readers to experiment
+upon.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We have given this variety the name of "owl-trap," because it may
+be used with success in this direction. When set for this purpose,
+it should be baited with a live mouse, small rat or bird, either
+fastened to the bottom of the trap, if a bird, or set in with the
+trap inclosing it, if a mouse. A small bird is the preferable bait,
+as it may be easily fastened to the bottom of the box by a string,
+and as a general thing is more sure to attract the attention of
+the owl by its chirping.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trap should be set in an open, conspicuous spot, in the neighborhood
+where the owls in the night are heard to "hoot." The chances are
+that the box will contain an owl on the following morning.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This bird is a very interesting and beautiful creature, and if our
+young reader could only catch one, and find rats and mice enough
+to keep it well fed, he would not only greatly diminish the number
+of rats in his neighborhood, but he would realize a great deal
+of enjoyment in watching and studying the habits of the bird.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Should it be difficult to supply the above mentioned food, raw
+meat will answer equally well. The bird should either be kept in
+a cage or inclosure and in the latter case, its wings will require
+to be clipped.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BOX BIRD TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Here we have another invention somewhat resembling the foregoing.
+Our engraving represents the arrangement of the parts as the trap
+appears when set.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The box may be of almost any shape. A large sized cigar box has
+been used with excellent success, and for small birds is just the
+thing. The cover of the box in any case should work on a hinge of
+some sort. The trap is easily made. The first thing to be done
+is to cut an upright slot, about two inches in length, through
+the centre of the backboard, commencing at the upper edge. To the
+inside centre edge of the cover a small square strap, about four
+inches in length, should then be secured. It should be so adjusted
+as that one-half shall project toward the inside of the box, as
+seen in the illustration, and at the same time pass easily through
+the slot beneath where the cover
+<a name="page_91"><span class="page">Page 91</span></a>
+is closed. The lid should now be supplied with elastics as described
+in the foregoing. Next in order comes the bait stick. Its shape
+is clearly shown in our illustration, and it may be either cut in
+one piece or consist of two parts joined together at the angle.
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 407px;">
+  <img src="images/fig060.jpg" width="407" height="224" alt="Figure 60">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+To the long arm the bait should be attached and the upright portion
+should be just long enough to suspend the cover in a position on
+a line with the top of the box. The trap may now be set, as seen
+in our illustration, and should be supplied with the necessary
+tin catch, described in the foregoing.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE PENDENT BOX TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This invention is original with the author of this work, and when
+properly made and set will prove an excellent device for the capture
+of small birds.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The general appearance of the trap, as set, is clearly shown in
+our illustration. A thin wooden box is the first requisite, it
+should be about a foot square and six inches in depth, and supplied
+with a close fitting cover, working on hinges. The sides should then
+be perforated with a few auger holes for purposes of ventilation.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Two elastics are next in order, and they should be attached to
+the cover and box, one on each side, as shown at (<i>a</i>.) They
+should be drawn to a strong tension, so as to hold the cover firmly
+against the box.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The mechanism of the trap centres in the bait stick which differs
+in construction from any other described in this book.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It should be made about the size of a lead pencil, and eleven
+<a name="page_92"><span class="page">Page 92</span></a>
+inches or so in length, depending of course upon the size of the
+box.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It should then be divided in two pieces by a perfectly flat cut,
+the longer part being six inches in length. This piece should be
+attached to the back board of the box by a small string and a tack,
+as shown at (<i>c</i>), its end being bluntly pointed. Its attachment
+should be about five inches above the bottom board, and in the
+exact centre of the width of the back.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Near the flat end of the other piece the bait consisting of a berry
+or other fruit, should be secured, and the further extremity of
+the stick should then be rounded to a blunt point. The trap is now
+easily set. Raise the lid and lift the long stick to the position
+given in the illustration. Adjust the flat end of the bait stick
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 420px;">
+  <img src="images/fig061.jpg" width="420" height="393" alt="Figure 61">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+against that of the former, and allow the pressure of the lid to
+bear against the blunt point of the short stick at (<i>d</i>),
+as shown in the illustration, a straight dent being made in the
+cover to receive it, as also in the back of the box for the other
+piece. If properly constructed, this pressure will be sufficient
+to hold the sticks end to end, as our engraving
+<a name="page_93"><span class="page">Page 93</span></a>
+represents, and the trap is thus set. The slightest weight on the
+false perch thus made will throw the parts asunder, and the cover
+closes with a snap.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The greatest difficulties in constructing the trap will be found
+in the bearings of the bait sticks (<i>b</i>), the ends of which
+must be perfectly flat and join snugly, in order to hold themselves
+together. The box may now be suspended in a tree by the aid of a
+string at the top. The first bird that makes bold enough to alight
+on the perch is a sure captive, and is secured without harm. If
+desired, the elastic may be attached to the inside of the cover,
+extending to the back of the box, as seen in the initial at the
+head of this chapter. If the elastic in any event shows tendencies
+toward relaxing, the tin catch described on <a href="#page_88">page
+88</a> should be adjusted to the lower edge of the box to insure
+capture.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE HAWK TRAP.</h4>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig062.jpg" width="457" height="417" alt="Figure 62">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Our illustration represents a hawk in a sad plight. The memory of
+a recent feast has attracted it to the scene of many of
+<a name="page_94"><span class="page">Page 94</span></a>
+its depredations: but the ingenious farmer has at last outwitted
+his feathered foe and brought its sanguinary exploits to a timely
+end. This trap is a "Yankee" invention and has been used with great
+success in many instances where the hawk has become a scourge to the
+poultry yard. The contrivance is clearly shown in an illustration,
+consisting merely of a piece of plank two feet square, set with
+stiff perpendicular pointed wires.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This affair was set on the ground in a conspicuous place, the board
+covered with grass, and the nice fat Poland hen which was tied to
+the centre proved a morsel too tempting for the hawk to resist.
+Hence the "fell swoop" and the fatal consequences depicted in our
+illustration. The owl has also been successfully captured by the
+same device.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE WILD DUCK NET.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Following will be found two examples of traps in very common use
+for the capture of wild ducks, and in the region of Chesapeake
+bay, immense numbers of the game are annually taken by their aid.
+The first is the well known net trap, so extensively used in nearly
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 494px;">
+  <img src="images/fig063.jpg" width="494" height="233" alt="Figure 63">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+all countries, both for the capture of various kinds of fish as
+well as winged game. Our illustration gives a very clear idea of
+the construction of the net, and an elaborate description is almost
+superfluous. It consists of a graduated series of hoops covered
+by a net work. From each a converging net extends backward ending
+in a smaller hoop which is held in position by cords extending
+therefrom to the
+<a name="page_95"><span class="page">Page 95</span></a>
+next larger hoop. The depth of these converging nets should extend
+backward about three or four feet from the large hoop; and the
+distance between these latter should be about five feet. The length
+of the net should be about twenty feet, terminating in a "pound"
+or netted enclosure, as seen in the illustration. The trap may be
+set on shore or in the water as seen. "Decoy" birds are generally
+used, being enclosed in the pound.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When set on land the bait consisting of corn or other grain should
+be spread about the entrance and through the length of the net.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is remarkable that a duck which so easily finds its way within
+the netted enclosure, should be powerless to make its escape, but
+such seems to be the fact, and even a single hoop with its reflex
+net, has been known to secure a number of the game.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE HOOK TRAP</h4>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig064.jpg" width="465" height="319" alt="Figure 64">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Our second example is one which we are almost tempted to exclude
+on account of its cruelty, but as our volume is especially devoted
+to traps of all kinds and as this is a variety in very common use,
+we feel bound to give it a passing notice. Our illustration fully
+conveys its painful mode of capture, and a beach at low water is
+generally the scene of the slaughter. A long stout cord is first
+stretched across the sand and secured
+<a name="page_96"><span class="page">Page 96</span></a>
+to a peg at each end. To this shorter lines are attached at intervals,
+each one being supplied with a fish hook baited with a piece of
+the tender rootstock of a certain water reed, of which the ducks
+are very fond. The main cord and lines are then imbedded in the
+sand, the various baits only appearing on the surface, and the
+success of the device is equal to its cruelty.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Of all oddities of the trap kind, there is, perhaps, no one more
+novel and comical than the "Fool's Cap" crow-trap, which forms
+the subject of our present illustration. Crows are by no means
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 319px;">
+  <img src="images/fig065.jpg" width="319" height="352" alt="Figure 65">
+</span>
+
+easy of capture in any form of trap, and they are generally as
+coy and as shrewd in their approach to a trap as they are bold in
+their familiarity and disrespect for the sombre scarecrows in the
+com field. But this simple device will often mislead the smartest
+and shrewdest crow, and make a perfect <i>fool</i> of him, for it
+is hard to imagine a more ridiculous sight than is furnished by
+the strange antics and evolutions of a crow thus embarrassed with
+his head imbedded in a cap which he finds impossible to remove, and
+which he in vain endeavors to shake off by all sorts of gymnastic
+performance. The secret of the little contrivance is easily told.
+The cap consists of a little cone of stiff paper, about three or
+four inches in diameter at the opening. This is imbedded in the
+ground, up to its edge, and a few grains of corn are dropped into
+it. The inside edge of the
+<a name="page_97"><span class="page">Page 97</span></a>
+opening is then smeared with <i>bird-lime</i>, a substance of which
+we shall speak hereafter.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The crow, on endeavoring to reach the corn, sinks his bill so deep
+in the cone as to bring the gummy substance in contact with the
+feathers of his head and neck, to which it adheres in spite of
+all possible efforts on the part of the bird to throw it off.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The cones may be made of a brownish-colored paper if they are to
+be placed in the earth, but of white paper when inserted in the
+snow. It is an excellent plan to insert a few of these cones in
+the fresh corn hills at planting season, as the crows are always on
+the watch at this time, and will be sure to partake of the tempting
+morsels, not dreaming of the result. The writer has often heard
+of this ingenious device, and has read of its being successfully
+employed in many instances, but he has never yet had an opportunity
+of testing it himself. He will leave it for his readers to experiment
+upon for themselves.
+</p>
+
+<h4>BIRD LIME.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This substance so called to which we have above alluded, and which
+is sold in our bird marts under that name, is a viscid, sticky
+preparation, closely resembling a very thick and gummy varnish.
+It is astonishingly "sticky," and the slightest quantity between
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 391px;">
+  <img src="images/fig066.jpg" width="391" height="238" alt="Figure 66">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+the fingers will hold them together with remarkable tenacity. What
+its effect must be on the feathers of a bird can easily be imagined.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This preparation is put up in boxes of different sizes, and may
+be had from any of the taxidermists or bird-fanciers in any of
+<a name="page_98"><span class="page">Page 98</span></a>
+our large towns or cities. Should a <i>home made</i> article be
+required, an excellent substitute may be prepared from the inner
+bark of the "slippery elm." This should be gathered in the spring
+or early summer, cut into very small pieces or scraped into threads,
+and boiled in water sufficient to cover them until the pieces are
+soft and easily mashed. By this time the water will be pretty much
+boiled down, and the whole mass should then be poured into a mortar
+and beaten up, adding at the same time a few grains of wheat. When
+done, the paste thus made may be put into an earthen vessel and
+kept. When required to be used, it should be melted or softened
+over the fire, adding goose grease or linseed oil, instead of water.
+When of the proper consistency it may be spread upon sticks or
+twigs prepared for it, and which should afterwards be placed in
+the locality selected for the capture of the birds.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+An excellent bird-lime may be made also from plain linseed-oil,
+by boiling it down until it becomes thick and gummy. Thick varnish
+either plain or mixed with oil, but always free from alcohol, also
+answers the purpose very well. The limed twigs may be either set
+in trees or placed on poles and stuck in the ground.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If any of our readers chance to become possessed of an owl, they
+may look forward to grand success with their limed twigs. It is
+a well known fact in natural history that the <i>owl</i> is the
+universal enemy of nearly all our smaller birds. And when, as often
+happens, a swarm of various birds are seen flying frantically from
+limb to limb, seeming to centre on a particular tree, and filling
+the air with their loud chirping, it may be safely concluded that
+some sleepy owl has been surprised in his day-dozing, and is being
+severely pecked and punished for his nightly depredations.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Profiting from this fact, the bird catcher often utilizes the owl
+with great success. Fastening the bird in the crotch of some tree,
+he adjusts the limed twigs on an sides, even covering the neighboring
+branches with the gummy substance. No sooner is the owl spied by
+<i>one</i> bird than the cry is set up, and a <i>score</i> of foes
+are soon at hand, ready for battle. One by one they alight on the
+beguiling twigs, and one by one find themselves held fast. The
+more they flutter the more powerless they become, and the more
+securely are they held. In this way many valuable and rare birds
+are often captured.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_99"><span class="page">Page 99</span></a>
+THE HUMMING BIRD TRAP.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+One of the most ingenious uses to which bird lime is said to have
+been applied with success, is in the capture of humming-birds.
+The lime in this instance is made simply by chewing a few grains
+of wheat in the mouth until a gum is formed. It is said that by
+spreading this on the inside opening of the long white lily or
+trumpet-creeper blossom, the capture of a humming-bird is almost
+certain, and he will never be able to leave the flower after once
+fairly having entered the opening. There can be no doubt but that
+this is perfectly practicable, and we recommend it to our readers.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The object in making the bird-lime from wheat consists in the fact
+that this is more easily removed from the feathers than the other
+kinds.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We would not wish our readers to infer from this that a humming-bird
+might be captured or kept alive, for of all birds, they are the
+most fragile and delicate, and would die of <i>fright</i>, if from
+nothing else. They are chiefly used for ornamental purposes, and
+may be caught in a variety of ways. A few silk nooses hung about
+the flowers where the birds are seen to frequent, will sometimes
+succeed in ensnaring their tiny forms.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The blow-gun is often used with good success, and the concussion
+from a gun loaded simply with powder, and aimed in the direction
+of the bird, will often stun it so that it will fall to the ground.
+If a strong stream of water be forced upon the little creature, as
+it is fluttering from flower to flower, the result is the same,
+as the feathers become so wet that it cannot fly.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig067.jpg" width="344" height="169" alt="Figure 67">
+<!-- Page 100 is blank but is referenced by an internal link. -->
+<a name="page_100"></a>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<a name="page_101"><span class="page">Page 101</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig068.jpg" width="516" height="752"
+  alt="MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS">
+</div>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_103"><span class="page">Page 103</span></a>
+BOOK IV.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="subtitle">MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.</p>
+
+<h4>THE COMMON BOX TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p><img src="images/fig069.jpg" width="176" height="175" alt="T"
+ style="float: left;">he following chapter includes a variety of traps
+which have not been covered by any of the previous titles. Several
+novelties are contained in the list, and also a number of well
+known inventions.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There is probably no more familiar example of the trap kind than
+that of the common wooden box-trap, better known, perhaps, by our
+country boys as the rabbit-trap. A glance at our illustration, will
+readily bring it to mind, and easily explain its working to those
+not particularly acquainted with it. These traps may be made of any
+size, but, being usually employed in catching rabbits, require
+to be made quite large. They should be made of hard seasoned
+wood&mdash;oak or chestnut is the best&mdash;and of slabs about an
+inch in thickness. The pieces may be of the following dimensions:
+let the bottom board be 20+7 in.; side board, 20+9 in.; lid board
+19+7 in., and the end piece of lid 7 in. square.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The tall end piece should be about 16 inches high by 7 broad. Let
+this be sharpened on the upper end, as seen in the engraving, and
+furnished with a slight groove on the summit, for the reception
+of the cord. Now to put the pieces together.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Nail the two sides to the edge of the bottom board, and fit in
+between them the high end piece, securing that also, with nails
+through the bottom and side boards. Next nail the lid board on
+to the small, square end piece, and fit the lid thus made neatly
+into its place.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+To make the hinge for the lid, two small holes should be bored
+through the sides of the trap, about four inches from the tall end,
+and half an inch from the upper edge of each board. Let
+<a name="page_104"><span class="page">Page 104</span></a>
+small nails now be driven through these holes into the edge of the
+lid, and it will be found to work freely upon them.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The principal part of the trap is now made, but what remains to be
+done is of great importance. The "spindle" is a necessary feature
+in nearly all traps, and the box-trap is useless without it. In
+this case it should consist merely of a round stick of about the
+thickness of a lead pencil, and we will say, 7 or 8 in. in length.
+One end should be pointed and the other should have a small notch
+cut in it, as seen in the separate drawing of the stick. The spindle
+being ready, we must have some place to put it. Another hole should
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 498px;">
+  <img src="images/fig070.jpg" width="498" height="342" alt="Figure 70">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+be bored through the middle of the high end piece, and about 4 in.
+from the bottom. This hole should be large enough to allow the
+spindle to pass easily through it. If our directions have been
+carefully followed, the result will now show a complete, closefitting
+trap.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In setting the trap there are two methods commonly employed, as
+shown at <i>a</i> and <i>b</i>. The string, in either case, must
+be fastened to the end of the lid.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the first instance (<i>a</i>) the lid is raised and made fast
+by the brace, holding itself beneath the tip of the projecting
+spindle, and a nail or plug driven into the wood by the side of
+the hole.
+<a name="page_105"><span class="page">Page 105</span></a>
+Of course, when the spindle is drawn or moved from the inside the
+brace will be let loose and the lid will drop.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the other method (<i>b</i>) the spindle is longer, and projects
+several inches on the outside of the hole. The brace is also longer,
+and catches itself in the notch on the end of the spindle, and
+another slight notch in the board, a few inches above the hole.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When the bait is touched from the inside, the brace easily flies
+out and the lid falls, securing its victim. Either way is sure
+to succeed, but if there is any preference it is for the former
+(<i>a</i>). It is a wise plan to have a few holes through the trap
+in different places, to allow for ventilation, and it may be found
+necessary to line the cracks with tin, as sometimes the enclosed
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 343px;">
+  <img src="images/fig071.jpg" width="343" height="282" alt="Figure 71">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+creature might otherwise gnaw through and make its escape. If there
+is danger of the lid not closing tightly when sprung, a stone may
+be fastened upon it to insure that result.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This trap is usually set for rabbits, and these dimensions are
+especially calculated with that idea. Rabbits abound in all our
+woods and thickets, and may be attracted by various baits. An apple
+is most generally used. The box-trap may be made of smaller dimensions,
+and set in trees for squirrels with very good success.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There is still another well known form of this trap represented
+in the tail piece at the end of this section. The box is first
+constructed of the shape already given, only having the lid piece
+<a name="page_106"><span class="page">Page 106</span></a>
+nailed firmly in the top of the box. The tall end piece is also
+done away with. The whole thing thus representing a simple oblong
+box with one end open. Two slender cleats should be nailed on each
+side of this opening, on the interior of the box, to form a groove
+into which a square end board may easily slide up and down, the
+top board being slightly sawn away to receive it. An upright stick
+should then be erected on the top centre of the box, in the tip of
+which a straight stick should be pivoted, working easily therein,
+like the arms of a balance. To one end of this balance, the end
+board should be adjusted by two screw eyes, and to the other the
+string with spindle attached. By now lowering the spindle to its
+place, the further end of the balance will be raised and with it
+the end board, and on the release of the spindle the board will
+fall. This plan is quite commonly adopted but we rather prefer
+the former. But as each has its advantages we present them both.
+</p>
+
+<h4>ANOTHER BOX TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This works after the manner of the ordinary wire rat-trap; our
+illustration explains itself.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The box should be of the shape there shown, with one of its end
+pieces arranged on hinges so as to fall freely. An elastic should
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 436px;">
+  <img src="images/fig072.jpg" width="436" height="222" alt="Figure 72">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+be fastened from the inside of this end to the inner surface of
+the top of the box, to insure its closing. If desired an elastic
+may be adjusted at the side as shown in the cut and a catch piece
+of stout tin should be attached to the bottom of the trap to secure
+the lid when it falls. A small hole should then be bored in the
+top, near the further end of the trap, and
+<a name="page_107"><span class="page">Page 107</span></a>
+the spindle, having a notch on its upper end, passed through the
+hole thus made. The top of the spindle is shown at (<i>a</i>). It
+should be held in its place by a small plug or pin through it,
+below the surface of the box. A slender stick, long enough to reach
+and catch beneath the notch in the spindle should now be fastened
+to the lid and the trap is complete. It may be baited with cheese,
+bread, and the like, and if set for squirrels, an apple answers
+every purpose.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When constructed on a larger and heavier scale it may be used for
+the capture of rabbits and animals of a similar size, but for this
+purpose the previous variety is preferable.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+One of the most useful as well as the most ancient inventions in
+the way of traps is the common <i>Figure Four Trap</i>, which forms
+the subject of our next illustration. It is a very ingenious
+contrivance, and the mechanism, consists merely of three sticks.
+It possesses great advantages in the fact that it may be used in
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 498px;">
+  <img src="images/fig073.jpg" width="498" height="307" alt="Figure 73">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+a variety of ways, and a number of the machines may be carried by
+the young trapper with very little inconvenience. Our illustration
+shows the trap already set, only awaiting for a slight touch at
+the bait to bring the heavy stone to the ground. A box may be
+substituted for the stone, and the animal may thus be
+<a name="page_108"><span class="page">Page 108</span></a>
+captured alive. The three sticks are represented separate at <i>a</i>.
+<i>b</i>. and <i>c</i>. Of course, there is no regular size for
+them, as this would greatly depend upon the purpose for which they
+are designed to be used. If for rabbits, the following proportions
+will answer very well. The sticks should all be square, and about
+half an inch in thickness. The bait-stick, (<i>a</i>) should be
+about nine or ten inches in length, one end being pointed and the
+other furnished with a notch, as indicated. The upright stick,
+(<i>b</i>) should be a little shorter, one end being whittled to
+a rather sharp edge. At about three or four inches from the other
+end, and on the side next to that whittled, a square notch should
+be cut. This should be about a third of an inch in depth and half
+an inch in width, being so cut as exactly to receive the bait-stick
+without holding it fast. The remaining stick (<i>c</i>) should have
+a length of about seven or eight inches, one end being whittled,
+as in the last, to an edge, and the other end furnished with a
+notch on the same side of the stick.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig074.jpg" width="489" height="130" alt="Figure 74">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When these are finished, the trap may be set in the following manner:
+Place the upright stick, (<i>b</i>) with its pointed end uppermost.
+Rest the notch of the slanting stick, (<i>c</i>) on the summit of
+the upright stick, placing the stone upon its end, and holding
+the stick in position with the hand. By now hooking the notch in
+the bait-stick on the sharpened edge of the slanting stick and
+fitting it into the square notch in the upright, it may easily be
+made to catch and hold itself in position. The bait should always
+project beneath the stone. In case a box is used instead of a stone,
+the trap may be set either inside of it or beneath its edge. Where
+the ground is very soft, it would be well to rest the upright stick
+on a chip or small flat stone, as otherwise it is apt to sink into
+the earth by degrees and spring by itself.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When properly made, it is a very sure and sensitive trap, and the
+bait, generally an apple, or "nub" of corn is seldom more than
+touched when the stone falls.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_109"><span class="page">Page 109</span></a>
+THE "DOUBLE ENDER."
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is what we used to call it in New England and it was a great
+favorite among the boys who were fond of rabbit catching. It was
+constructed of four boards two feet in length by nine inches in
+breath secured with nails at their edges, so as to form a long
+square box. Each end was supplied with a heavy lid working on two
+hinges. To each of these lids a light strip of wood was fastened,
+the length of each being sufficient to reach nearly to the middle
+of the top of the box, as seen in the illustration. At this point
+a small auger hole was then made downward through the board. A
+couple of inches of string was next tied to the tip of each stick
+and supplied with a large knot at the end. The trap was then set on
+the simple principle of which there are so many examples throughout
+the pages of this work. The knots were lowered through the auger
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 486px;">
+  <img src="images/fig075.jpg" width="486" height="244" alt="Figure 75">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+hole and the insertion of the bait stick inside the box held them
+in place. The edge of the bottom board on each end of the trap
+should be supplied with a tin catch such as is described on <a
+href="#page_88">page 88</a> in order to hold the lid in place after
+it has fallen. No matter from which end the bait is approached
+it is no sooner touched than both ends fall and "<i>bunny</i>"
+is prisoner. Like many other of our four-footed game, the rabbit
+manifests a peculiar liking for salt and may be regularly attracted
+to a given spot by its aid. A salted cotton string is sometimes
+extended several yards from the trap for the purpose of leading
+them to it, but this seems a needless precaution, as the rabbit
+is seldom behind hand in discerning a tempting bait when it is
+within his reach.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_110"><span class="page">Page 110</span></a>
+THE SELF SETTING TRAP.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+One of the oldest known principles ever embodied in the form of a
+trap is that which forms the subject of the accompanying illustration.
+It is very simple in construction, sure in its action; and as its
+name implies, resets itself after each intruder has been captured.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig076.jpg" width="456" height="313" alt="Figure 76">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is well adapted for Rabbits and Coons and when made on a small
+scale, may be successfully employed in taking rats and mice. It
+is also extensively used in the capture of the Mink and Muskrat,
+being set beneath the water, near the haunts of the animals and
+weighted by a large stone. Of course the size of the box will be
+governed by the dimensions of the game for which it is to be set.
+Its general proportions should resemble those of the illustration,
+both ends being open. A small gate, consisting of a square piece
+of wood supplied with a few stiff wires is then pivoted inside
+each opening, so as to work freely and fall easily when raised.
+The bait is fastened inside at the centre of the box. The animal,
+in quest of the bait, finds an easy entrance, as the wires lift
+at a slight pressure, but the exit after the gate has closed is
+so difficult that escape is almost beyond the question.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The wires should be so stiff as to preclude the possibility of them
+being bent by struggles of the imprisoned creature in his
+<a name="page_111"><span class="page">Page 111</span></a>
+efforts to escape, and to insure further strength it is advisable
+to connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of finer
+wire, twisted about each.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The simultaneous capture of two rabbits in a trap of this kind is
+a common occurrence.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE DEAD-FALL.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In strolling through the woods and on the banks of streams in the
+country, it is not an uncommon thing to stumble against a contrivance
+resembling in general appearance our next illustration. Throughout
+New England, the "dead-fall," as this is called, has always been
+a most popular favorite among trappers, young and old; and there
+is really no better rough and ready trap for large game. To entrap
+a fox by any device is no easy matter; but the writer remembers
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 371px;">
+  <img src="images/fig077.jpg" width="371" height="254" alt="Figure 77">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+one case where Reynard was outwitted, and the heavy log of the
+"dead-fall" put a speedy end to his existence. The trap was set in
+a locality where the fox had made himself a nuisance by repeated
+nocturnal invasions among the poultry, and the bait was cleverly
+calculated to decoy him. A live duck was tied within the pen, and
+the morsel proved too tempting for him to resist. Thrusting his
+head beneath the suspended log, in order to reach his prey, he thus
+threw down the slender framework of support; and the log, falling
+across his neck, put him to death.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Our illustration gives a very correct idea of the general construction
+of the "dead-fall," although differing slightly in its mode of
+setting from that usually employed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_112"><span class="page">Page 112</span></a>
+A pen of rough sticks is first constructed, having an open front.
+A log about seven or eight feet in length, and five or six inches
+in diameter, should then be procured. An ordinary fence rail will
+answer the purpose very well, although the log is preferable. Its
+large end should be laid across the front of the pen, and two stout
+sticks driven into the ground outside of it, leaving room for it to
+rise and fall easily between them and the pen, a second shorter log
+being placed on the ground beneath it, as described for the bear-trap,
+<a href="#page_17">page (17)</a>. A look at our illustration fully
+explains the <i>setting</i> of the parts. A forked twig, about a
+foot in length, answers for the bait-stick. The lower end should be
+pointed, and the fork, with its bait, should incline toward the
+ground, when set. The upper end should be supplied with a notch,
+square side down, and directly above the branch which holds the
+bait. Another straight stick, about fourteen inches in length, should
+then be cut. Make it quite flat on each end. A small thin stone,
+chip of wood, or the like, is the only remaining article required.
+Now proceed to raise the log, as shown in the drawing, place one
+end of the straight stick beneath it, resting its tip on the flat
+top of the upright stick on the outside of the log. The baitstick
+should now be placed in position inside the inclosure, resting the
+pointed end on the chip, and securing the notch above, as seen in
+the illustration, beneath the tip of the flat stick. When this is
+done, the trap is set, but, there are a few little hints in regard
+to setting it finely,&mdash;that is, surely,&mdash;which will be
+necessary. It is very important to avoid bringing too much of the
+weight of the log on the flat stick, as this would of course bear
+heavily on the bait-stick, and render considerable force necessary
+to spring the trap. The leverage at the point where the log rests
+on the flat stick should be very slight, and the log should be
+so placed that the upright shall sustain nearly all the weight.
+By this method, very little pressure is brought to bear on the
+bait-stick, and a very slight twitch will throw it out of poise.
+The fork of the bait-stick should point to the side of the inclosure,
+as, in this case, when the bait is seized by the unlucky intruder,
+the very turning of the fork forces the notch from beneath the
+horizontal stick, and throws the parts asunder.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If the trap is set for muskrats, minks, skunks, or animals of similar
+size, the weight of the log will generally be found sufficient to
+effect their death; but, if desired, a heavy stone
+<a name="page_113"><span class="page">Page 113</span></a>
+may be rested against it, or the raised end weighted with other logs
+(see <a href="#page_18">p. 18</a>), to make sure. When set for a coon
+or fox, this precaution is necessary. To guard against the cunning
+which some animals possess, it is frequently necessary to cover the
+top of the pen with cross-sticks, as there are numerous cases on
+record where the intended victims have climbed over the side of the
+inclosure, and taken the bait from the inside, thus keeping clear of
+the suspended log, and springing the trap without harm to themselves.
+A few sticks or branches laid across the top of the inclosure will
+prevent any such capers; and the crafty animals will either have to
+take the bait at the risk of their lives, or leave it alone.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For trapping the muskrat, the bait may consist of carrots, turnips,
+apples, and the like. For the mink, a bird's head, or the head
+of a fowl, is the customary bait; and the skunk may usually be
+taken with sweet apples, meats, or some portion of a dead fowl.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the case of the fox, which we have mentioned, the setting of the
+trap was somewhat varied; and in case our readers might desire to
+try a similar experiment, we will devote a few lines to a description
+of it. In this instance, the flat stick which supported the log was
+not more than eight inches in length; and instead of the bait-stick,
+a slight framework of slender branches was substituted. This frame or
+lattice-work was just large enough to fill the opening of the pen,
+and its upper end supported the flat stick. The duck was fastened
+to the back part of the pen, which was also closed over the top.
+The quacking of the fowl attracted the fox; and as he thrust his
+head through the lattice to reach his prey, the frame was thrown
+out of balance and Reynard paid the price of his greed and folly.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There is another mode of adjusting the pieces of the dead-fall,
+commonly employed by professional trappers, whereby the trap is sprung
+by the foot of the animal in quest of the bait. This construction
+is shown correctly in the accompanying cut, which gives the front
+view, the pen being made as before. The stout crotch represented
+at (<i>a</i>) is rested on the summit of a strong peg, driven into
+the ground beneath the <i>outside edge</i> of the suspended log;
+(<i>b</i>) is the treacherous stick which seals the doom of any
+animal that dares rest his foot upon it. This piece should be long
+enough to stretch across and overlap the guard-pegs at each side of
+the opening. To set the trap, rest the short crotch of (<i>a</i>) on
+the top of the peg, and lower the log upon it, keeping the leverage
+slight, as directed in our last example, letting much of the weight
+come on the top of the
+<a name="page_114"><span class="page">Page 114</span></a>
+peg. The long arm of the crotch should be pressed inward from the
+front, and one end of the stick (<i>b</i>) should then be caught
+between its extreme tip, and the upright peg about ten inches above
+the ground. By now fastening the bait to a peg at the back part of
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 370px;">
+  <img src="images/fig078.jpg" width="370" height="377" alt="Figure 78">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+the pen, the affair is in working order, and will be found perfectly
+reliable. The ground log (<i>d</i>) being rested in place as seen
+in the illustration. To make assurance doubly sure, it is well
+to cut a slight notch in the upright stick at (<i>c</i>) for the
+reception of the foot-piece (<i>b</i>). By this precaution the
+stick, when lowered, is bound to sink at the right end, thus ensuring
+success.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Figure-Four Trap, already described in another part of this
+book, is also well adapted to the dead-fall, and is much used.
+It should be made of stout pieces and erected at the opening of
+the pen, with the bait pointing toward the interior, the heavy
+log being poised on its summit.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE GARROTE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There is another variety of trap, somewhat resembling the dead-fall,
+but which seizes its prey in a little different manner.
+<a name="page_115"><span class="page">Page 115</span></a>
+This trap, which we will call the <i>Garrote</i>, is truly represented
+by our illustration. A pen is first constructed, similar to that of
+the dead-fall. At the opening of the pen, two arches are fastened
+in the ground. They should be about an inch apart. A stout forked
+stick should then be cut, and firmly fixed in the earth at the
+side of the arches, and about three feet distant.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Our main illustration gives the general appearance of the trap,
+but we also subjoin an additional cut, showing the "setting" or
+arrangement of the pieces. They are three in number, and consist:
+First, of a notched peg, which is driven into the ground at the back
+part of the pen, and a little to one side. Second, of a forked twig,
+the branch of which should point downward with the bait attached to
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 472px;">
+  <img src="images/fig079.jpg" width="472" height="248" alt="Figure 79">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+its end. The third stick being the little hooked piece catching beneath
+the arches. The first of these is too simple to need description.
+The second should be about eight inches long; a notch should be
+cut in each end. The upper one being on the side from which the
+branch projects, and the other on the <i>opposite</i> side of the
+stick, and at the other end, as is made plain by our illustration.
+The third stick may consist merely of a hooked crotch of some twig,
+as this is always to be found. Indeed, nearly <i>all</i> the parts
+of this trap may be found in any woods; and, with the exception
+of a jack-knife, bait, and string, the trapper need not trouble
+himself to carry any materials whatever. When the three pieces
+are thus made the trap only awaits the "Garrote." This should be
+made from a stiff pole, about six feet in length, having a heavy
+stone tied to its large end, and a loop of the shape of the letter
+U, or a slipping noose, made of stout cord or wire, fastened
+<a name="page_116"><span class="page">Page 116</span></a>
+at the smaller end. To arrange the pieces for their destructive
+work, the pole should be bent down so that the loop shall fall
+between the arches. The "crotch stick" should then be hooked beneath
+the front of the arch, letting its arm point inward. After this
+the bait stick should be placed in its position, with the bait
+pointing downward, letting one end catch beneath the notch in the
+ground-peg, and the other over the tip of the crotch stick. This
+done, and the trap is set.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Like the dead-fall, the bait stick should point toward the side
+of the pen, as the turning involved in pulling it toward the front
+is positively <i>sure</i> to slip it loose from its catches. Be
+careful to see that the loop is nicely arranged between the arches,
+and that the top of the pen is covered with a few twigs. If these
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 296px;">
+  <img src="images/fig080.jpg" width="296" height="238" alt="Figure 80">
+</span>
+
+directions are carefully followed, and if the young trapper has
+selected a good trapping ground, it will not be a matter of many
+days before he will discover the upper portion of the arches occupied
+by some rabbit, muskrat, or other unlucky creature, either standing on
+its hind legs, or lifted clean off the ground. Coons are frequently
+secured by this trap, although, as a general thing, they don't
+show much enthusiasm over traps of any kind, and seem to prefer
+to get their food elsewhere, rather than take it off the end of
+a bait stick.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BOW TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This most excellent and unique machine is an invention of the author's,
+and possesses great advantages, both on account of its durability
+and of the speedy death which it inflicts.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Procure a board about two feet in length, by five or six in width,
+and commencing at about nine inches from one end, cut a hole four
+or more inches square. This may readily be done with a narrow saw,
+by first boring a series of gimlet holes in which to insert it.
+There will now be nine inches of board on one side of the hole
+and eleven on the other. The shorter end constituting the top of
+the trap. On the upper edge of the hole
+<a name="page_117"><span class="page">Page 117</span></a>
+a row of stout tin teeth should be firmly tacked, as seen in the
+illustration. On the other side of the cavity, and three inches
+from it a small auger hole (the size of a lead pencil), should
+be bored. After which it should be sand-papered and polished on
+the interior, by rubbing with some smooth, hard tool, inserted
+inside. A round plug of wood should next be prepared. Let it be
+about half an inch in length, being afterwards bevelled nearly
+the whole length of one side, as shown at (<i>b</i>), leaving a
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 319px;">
+  <img src="images/fig081.jpg" width="319" height="446" alt="Figure 81">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+little over an eighth of an inch of the wood unwhittled. This little
+piece of wood is the most important part, of the trap, and should
+be made very carefully. The remaining end of the board below the
+auger hole should now be whittled off to a point, in order that
+it may be driven into the ground. The next requisites consist of
+two pieces of wood, which are seen at the sides of the square hole,
+in our illustration, and also seen at (<i>c</i>), side view. These
+<a name="page_118"><span class="page">Page 118</span></a>
+pieces should be about six inches in length and about an inch square.
+A thin piece being cut off from one side of each, to the distance
+of four inches, and ending in a square notch. The other end should
+be rounded off, as is also there plainly indicated. Before adjusting
+the pieces in place, two tin catches should be fastened to the board,
+one on each side of the hole. This catch is shown at (<i>d</i>),
+and consists merely of a piece of tin, half an inch in width, and
+three-quarters of an inch in length, tacked to the wood, and having
+its end raised, as indicated. Its object is to hold the bow-string
+from being pulled down after once passing it. The upper edge of
+these catch-pieces should be about an inch and a half from the top
+of the hole, and, if desired, two or three of them may be arranged
+one above the other, so that wherever the string may stop against
+the neck of the inmate it will be sure to hold. The catches being
+in place, proceed to adjust the pieces of wood, letting the notch
+be on a line with the top of the pole, or a little above it. Each
+piece should be fastened with two screws to make secure.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We will now give our attention to the bait stick. This should be
+about six inches in length, and square, as our illustration shows.
+There are two ways of attaching the bait-stick to the board, both
+shown at (<i>e</i>) and (<i>f</i>). The former consists merely of
+a screw eye inserted into the end of the stick, afterwards hinged
+to the board by a wire staple. The point for the hinge, in this
+case, should be about an inch below the auger hole. In the other
+method (<i>f</i>), the bait stick should be a half inch longer, and
+the spot for the hinge a quarter inch lower. At about a quarter of
+an inch from the square end of the bait stick a small hole should
+be made by the use of a hot wire. An oblong mortice should next be
+cut in the board, so as to receive this end of the stick easily.
+A stout bit of wire should then be inserted in the little hole
+in the stick, and laying this across the centre of the mortice,
+it should be thus secured by two staples, as the drawing shows.
+This forms a very neat and simple hinge. To determine the place
+for the catch, insert the flat end of the little plug fairly into
+the auger-hole above the hinge. Draw up the bait stick, and at the
+point where it comes in contact with the point of the plug, cut
+a square notch, as shown in (<i>b</i>). Everything now awaits the
+bow. This should be of hickory or other stout wood; it is well to
+have it seasoned, although a stout sapling will answer the purpose
+very well. It should be fastened to the top of the board by two heavy
+staples, or nails driven on each side of it. The string should be
+<i>heavy</i> Indian twine. Our
+<a name="page_119"><span class="page">Page 119</span></a>
+illustration shows the trap, as it appears when ready for business.
+The plug is inserted, as already described, with the bevelled face
+downward, and square end in the hole. Draw down the bow-string and
+pass it beneath the plug, at the same time catching the tip of
+the latter in the notch of the bait stick. If properly constructed
+the string will thus rest on the slight uncut portion of the under
+side of the peg, and the trap is thus set. If the bait is pushed
+when approached, the notch is forced off from the plug, and the
+string flies up with a <i>twang!</i> securing the neck of its victim,
+and producing almost instant death. If the bait is <i>pulled</i>,
+the bait stick thus forces the plug into the hole in the board, and
+thus slides the cord on to the bevel, which immediately releases
+it, and the bow is sprung. So that no matter whether the bait is
+pushed or drawn towards the front, the trap is equally sure to
+spring.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In setting this curious machine, it is only necessary to insert
+it into the ground, and surround the bait with a slight pen, in
+order that it may not be approached from behind. By now laying a
+stone or a pile of sticks in front of the affair, so that the bait
+may be more readily reached, the thing is ready. Care is required
+in setting to arrange the pieces delicately. The plug should be
+<i>very slightly</i> inserted into the auger hole, and the notch
+in the bait stick should be as small as possible, and hold. All
+this is made clear in our illustration (<i>b</i>).
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By observing these little niceties the trap becomes very sure and
+sensitive.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Bait with small apple, nub of corn, or the like.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE MOLE TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If there is anyone subject upon which the ingenuity of the farmers
+has been taxed, it is on the invention of a mole trap which would
+effectually clear their premises of these blind burrowing vermin.
+Many patented devices of this character are on the market, and
+many odd pictured ideas on the subject have gone the rounds of
+the illustrated press, but they all sink into insignificance when
+tested beside the trap we here present. It has no equal among mole
+traps, and it can be made with the utmost ease and without cost.
+The principle on which it works is the same as the Fish Trap on
+<a href="#page_120">page 120</a>.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Construct a hollow wooden tube about five inches in diameter, and
+eight inches in length. A section of a small tree, neatly excavated
+with a large auger is just the thing. Through
+<a name="page_120"><span class="page">Page 120</span></a>
+the centre of one of the sides a small hole the size of a lead
+pencil should be bored, this being the upper side. About half an
+inch distant from each end a smaller hole should be made for the
+passage of the noose. The spring should consist either of a stout
+steel rod, whalebone or stiff sapling, a foot or more in length,
+inserted downward through holes in the side of the tube after the
+manner of the Fish Trap already alluded to. No bait is required.
+A simple stick the size of the central hole at one end, and an
+inch in width at the other being sufficient. The trap is set as
+described in the other instances, and as the introduction of the
+spindle-stick is sometimes attended with difficulty owing to its
+position inside the trap, the bottom of the latter is sometimes
+cut away for two or three inches to facilitate the operation. The
+trap is then to be imbedded within the burrow of the mole. Find
+a fresh tunnel and carefully remove the sod above it. Insert the
+trap and replace the turf. The first mole that starts on his rounds
+through that burrow is a sure prisoner, no matter from which side
+he may approach.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Immense numbers of these troublesome vermin have been taken in a
+single season by a dozen such traps, and they possess great advantages
+over all other mole traps on account of their simplicity and unfailing
+success.
+</p>
+
+<h4>A FISH TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Our list of traps would be incomplete without a Fish Trap, and
+although we have mentioned some contrivances in this line under
+
+<span style="float: left; width: 242px;">
+  <img src="images/fig082.jpg" width="242" height="221" alt="Figure 82">
+</span>
+
+our article on "Fishing" we here present one which is both new
+and novel.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Its mode of construction is exactly similar to the Double Box Snare,
+<a href="#page_57">page (57)</a>. A section of stove-pipe one foot
+in length should first be obtained. Through the iron at a point
+equidistant from the ends, a hole should be made with some smooth,
+sharp pointed instrument, the latter being forced <i>outward</i>
+from the <i>inside</i> of the pipe, thus causing the ragged edge
+of the hole to appear on the outside, as seen in our illustration.
+The diameter of the aperture
+<a name="page_121"><span class="page">Page 121</span></a>
+should be about that of a lead pencil. Considering this as the
+<i>upper side</i> of the pipe, proceed to pierce two more hole's
+<i>downward</i> through the side of the circumference, for the
+admission of a stout stick or steel rod. This is fully explained in
+our illustration. The further arrangement of bait stick and nooses
+is exactly identical with that described on <a href="#page_57">page
+(57)</a>. It may be set for suckers, pickerel, and fish of like
+size, the bait stick being inserted with sufficient firmness to
+withstand the attacks of smaller fish. The bait should be firmly
+tied to the stick, or the latter supplied with two hooks at the
+end on which it should be firmly impaled. To set the trap, select
+a locality abounding in fish. Place a stone inside the bottom of
+the pipe, insert the bait stick and arrange the nooses.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By now quietly grasping the curve of the switch the trap may be
+easily lowered to the bottom. The bait soon attracts a multitude
+of small fishes; these in turn attract the pickerel to the spot,
+and before many minutes the trap is sprung and may be raised from
+the water with its prisoner. This odd device is an invention of
+the author's, and it is as successful as it is unique.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig083.jpg" width="344" height="377"
+  alt="Maternal advice.">
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<a name="page_123"><span class="page">Page 123</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig084.jpg" width="512" height="735"
+  alt="HOUSEHOLD TRAPS">
+<!-- Page 124 is blank but is referenced by an internal link. -->
+<a name="page_124"></a>
+</div>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_125"><span class="page">Page 125</span></a>
+BOOK V.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="subtitle">HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.</p>
+
+<p><img src="images/fig085.jpg" width="144" height="181" alt="F"
+ style="float: left;">or the most effectual domestic trap on record
+see our page title to this section. There are several others also
+which have done good service in many households, and for the sake
+of pestered housekeepers generally, we devote a corner of our volume
+for their especial benefit.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Foremost in the list of domestic pests the rat stands pre-eminent,
+and his proverbial shrewdness and cunning render his capture often
+a very difficult, if not an impossible task. We subjoin, however,
+a few hints and suggestions of practical value, together with some
+perfected ideas in the shape of traps, by which the average rat
+may be easily outwitted and led to his destruction.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+First on the list is
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BARREL TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This most ingenious device possesses great advantages in its
+capabilities of securing an almost unlimited number of the vermin
+in quick succession. It also takes care of itself, requires no
+re-baiting or setting after once put in working order, and is sure
+death to its prisoners.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A water-tight barrel is the first thing required. Into this pour
+water to the depth of a foot. Next dampen a piece of very thick
+paper, and stretch it over the top of the barrel, tying it securely
+below the upper hoops. When the paper dries it will become thoroughly
+flat and tightened. Its surface should then be strewn with bits
+of cheese, etc., and the barrel so placed
+<a name="page_126"><span class="page">Page 126</span></a>
+that the rats may jump upon it from some neighboring surface. As
+soon as the bait is gone, a fresh supply should be spread on the
+paper and the same operation repeated for several days, until the
+rats get accustomed to visit the place for their regular rations,
+fearlessly and without suspicion. This is "half the battle," and
+the capture of the greedy victims of misplaced confidence is now
+an easy matter. The bait should again be spread as before and a
+few pieces of the cheese should be attached to the paper with gum.
+It is a good plan to smear parts of the paper with gum arabic,
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 462px;">
+  <img src="images/fig086.jpg" width="462" height="387" alt="Figure 86">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+sprinkling the bait upon it. When dry, cut a cross in the middle
+of the paper, as seen in the illustration, and leave the barrel
+to take care of itself and the rats. The first one comes along,
+spies the tempting morsels, and with his accustomed confidence,
+jumps upon the paper. He suddenly finds himself in the water at
+the bottom of the barrel, and the paper above has closed and is
+ready to practice its deception on the next comer. There is not
+long to wait. A second victim soon tumbles in to keep company with
+the first. A third and a fourth soon follow, and a dozen or more are
+<a name="page_127"><span class="page">Page 127</span></a>
+sometimes thus entrapped in a very short space of time. It is a
+most excellent and simple trap, and if properly managed, will most
+effectually curtail the number of rats in any pestered neighborhood.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By some, it is considered an improvement to place in the bottom
+of the barrel a large stone, which shall project above the water
+sufficiently to offer a foothold for one rat. The first victim,
+of course, takes possession of this retreat and on the precipitate
+arrival of the second a contest ensues for its occupancy. The hubbub
+which follows is said to attract all the rats in the neighborhood
+to the spot, and many are thus captured.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We can hardly recommend the addition of the stone as being an
+improvement. The rat is a most notoriously shrewd and cunning animal,
+and the despairing cries of his comrades must rather tend to excite
+his caution and suspicion. By the first method the drowning is soon
+accomplished and the rat utters no sound whereby to attract and
+warn his fellows. This contrivance has been thoroughly tested and
+has proved its efficacy in many households by completely ridding
+the premises of the vermin.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another excellent form of Barrel Trap is that embodying the principle
+described in <a href="#page_131">page (131)</a>. A circular platform
+should be first constructed and hinged in the opening of the barrel
+This may be done by driving a couple of small nails through the
+sides of the barrel into a couple of staples inserted near the
+opposite edges of the platform. The latter should be delicately
+weighted, as described on the above mentioned page, and previously
+to setting, should be baited in a stationary position for several
+days to gain the confidence of the rats. The bait should at last be
+secured to the platform with gum, and the bottom of the barrel of
+course filled with water, as already described. This trap possesses
+the same advantages as the foregoing. It is <i>self-setting</i>,
+and unfailing in its action.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another method consists in half-filling the barrel with oats, and
+allowing the rats to enjoy their repast there for several days.
+When thus attracted to the spot, remove the oats, and pour the same
+bulk of water into the barrel, sprinkling the surface thickly with
+the grain. The delusion is almost perfect, as will be effectually
+proven when the first rat visits the spot for his accustomed free
+lunch. Down he goes with a splash, is soon drowned, and sinks to
+the bottom. The next shares the same fate, and several more are
+likely to be added to the list of misguided victims.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_128"><span class="page">Page 128</span></a>
+Many of the devices described throughout this work may be adapted for
+domestic use to good purpose. The box-trap <a href="#page_103">page
+103</a>, box-snare, <a href="#page_55">page 55</a>, figure-four, <a
+href="#page_107">page 107</a>, are all suitable for the capture of the
+rat; also, the examples given on pages <a href="#page_106">106</a>,
+<a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, and <a
+href="#page_129">129</a>.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The steel-trap is often used, but should always be concealed from
+view. It is a good plan to set it in a pan covered with meal, and
+placed in the haunts of the rats. The trap may also be set at the
+mouth of the rats' hole, and covered with a piece of dark-colored
+cloth or paper. The runways between boxes, boards, and the like
+offer excellent situations for the trap, which should be covered,
+as before directed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Without one precaution, however, the trap may be set in vain. Much
+of the so-called shrewdness of the rat is nothing more than an
+instinctive caution, through the acute sense of smell which the
+animal possesses; and a trap which has secured one victim will
+seldom extend its list, unless all traces of its first occupant
+are thoroughly eradicated. This may be accomplished by smoking
+the trap over burning paper, hens' feathers or chips, taking care
+to avoid a heat so extreme as to affect the temper of the steel
+springs. All rat-traps should be treated the same way, in order to
+insure success, and the position and localities of setting should
+be frequently changed.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BOX DEAD-FALL.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This trap is an old invention, simplified by the author, and for
+the capture of rats and mice will prove very effectual. It consists
+of a box, constructed of four slabs of 3-4 inch boarding, and open
+at both ends. The two side boards should be 10 x 18 inches; top
+and bottom boards, 6 x 18 inches. For the centre of the latter,
+a square piece should be removed by the aid of the saw. The width
+of this piece should be four inches, and the length eight inches.
+Before nailing the boards together, the holes thus left in the
+bottom board should be supplied with a treadle platform, working
+on central side pivots. The board for this treadle should be much
+thinner and lighter than the rest of the trap, and should fit loosely
+in place, its surface being slightly below the level of the bottom
+board. This is shown in the interior of the trap. The pivots should
+be inserted in the exact centre of the sides, through holes made
+in the edge of the bottom board. These holes may be bored with
+a gimlet or burned with a red-hot wire. The pivots may
+<a name="page_129"><span class="page">Page 129</span></a>
+consist of stout brass or iron wire; and the end of one should
+be flattened with the hammer, as seen in (<i>a</i>). This pivot
+should project an inch from the wood, and should be <i>firmly</i>
+inserted in the treadle-piece. The platform being thus arranged,
+proceed to fasten the boards together, as shown in the illustration,
+the top and bottom boards overlapping the others. We will now give
+our attention to the stick shown at (<i>b</i>). This should be
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 494px;">
+  <img src="images/fig087.jpg" width="494" height="413" alt="Figure 87">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+whittled from a piece of hard wood, its length being three inches,
+and its upper end pointed as seen. The lower end should be pierced
+with a crevice, which should then be forced over the flattened
+extremity of the point (<i>a</i>) as shown at (<i>c</i>), pointed
+end uppermost. The weight (<i>d</i>) is next in order. This should
+consist of a heavy oak plank two inches in thickness, and of such
+other dimensions as will allow it to fit loosely in the box, and
+fall from top to bottom therein without catching between two sides.
+A stout staple should be driven in the centre of its upper face,
+and from this a stout string should be passed upward through a
+hole in the centre of the box. We are now ready for the spindle
+(<i>e</i>). This should be about three inches in length, and bluntly
+<a name="page_130"><span class="page">Page 130</span></a>
+pointed at each end, a notch being made to secure it at a point five
+inches above the pivot (<i>c</i>). To set the trap, raise the weight,
+as seen in the illustration; draw down the string to the point
+(<i>e</i>), and attach it to the spindle one-half an inch from
+its upper end, which should then be inserted in the notch, the
+lower end being caught against the extremity of the pivot stick.
+The parts are now adjusted, and even in the present state the trap
+is almost sure to spring at the slightest touch on the treadle-piece.
+An additional precaution is advisable, however. Two small wooden
+pegs (<i>f</i>) should be driven, one on each side of the spindle,
+thus preventing any side-movement of the latter. It will now be
+readily seen that the slightest weight on either end of the
+treadle-piece within the trap must tilt it to one side, thus throwing
+the pivot-piece from its bearing on the spindle; and the latter
+being released, lets fall the weight with crushing effect upon
+the back of its hapless victim.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trap is very effective, and is easily constructed. The bait
+should be rested in the centre of the treadle platform. Built on
+a larger scale, this device may be successfully adapted to the
+capture of the mink, martien, and many other varieties of game.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BOARD-FLAP.</h4>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig088.jpg" width="479" height="330" alt="Figure 88">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_131"><span class="page">Page 131</span></a>
+For the capture of mice this is both a simple and effective contrivance,
+and it may be enlarged so as to be of good service for larger animals.
+Procure two boards, one foot square and one inch thick, and secure
+them together by two hinges, as in the illustration. Assuming one
+as the upper board, proceed to bore a gimlet hole three inches
+from the hinges. This is for the reception of the bait stick, and
+should be cut away on the inside, as seen in the section (<i>a</i>),
+thus allowing a free play for the stick. Directly beneath this
+aperture, and in the lower board, a large auger hole should be made.
+A stout bit of iron wire, ten inches in length, is now required.
+This should be inserted perpendicularly in the further end of the
+lower slab, being bent into a curve which shall slide easily through
+a gimlet hole in the edge of the upper board. This portion is very
+important, and should be carefully constructed. The bait stick
+should be not more than three inches in length, supplied with a
+notch in its upper end, and secured in the aperture in the board by
+the aid of a pivot and staples, as is clearly shown in our drawing.
+The spindle is next in order. It should consist of a light piece
+of pine eight and a half inches in length, and brought to an edge
+at each end. A tack should now be driven at the further edge of
+the upper board on a line with the aperture through which the wire
+passes. Our illustration represents the trap as it appears when
+set. The upper band is raised to the full limit of the wire. One
+end of the spindle is now adjusted beneath the head of the tack,
+and the other in the notch in the bait stick. The wire thus supports
+the suspended board by sustaining the spindle, which is held in
+equilibrium. A slight touch on the bait stick soon destroys this
+equilibrium: a flap ensues, and a dead mouse is the result. The
+object of the auger hole in the lower board consists in affording a
+receptacle for the bait when the boards come together, as otherwise
+it would defeat its object, by offering an obstruction to the fall
+of the board, and thus allow its little mouse to escape.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is, therefore, an essential part of the trap, and should be carefully
+tested before being finally set.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BOX PIT-FALL.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We now come to a variety of trap which differs in its construction
+from any previously described. It secures its victims alive, and
+without harm, and, when well made, is very successful.
+<a name="page_132"><span class="page">Page 132</span></a>
+It may be set for squirrels, chipmunks, rats, mice, and the like,
+and on a large scale for muskrats and mink.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trap is very easily made, and is represented in section in
+our illustration, showing the height and interior of the box. For
+ordinary purposes the box should be about twelve or fourteen inches
+square, with a depth of about eighteen inches. A platform consisting
+of a piece of tin should then be procured. This should be just
+large enough to fit nicely to the outline of the interior of the
+box without catching. On two opposite sides of this piece of tin,
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 467px;">
+  <img src="images/fig089.jpg" width="467" height="434" alt="Figure 89">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+and at the middle of each of those sides, a small strip of the
+same material should be wired, or soldered in the form of a loop,
+as shown in the separate diagram at (<i>b</i>). These loops should
+be only large enough to admit the end of a shingle-nail. A scratch
+should now be made across the tin from loop to loop, and on the
+centre of this scratch another and larger strip of tin should be
+fastened in a similar manner as shown in our diagram, at (<i>a</i>),
+this being for the balance weight. The
+<a name="page_133"><span class="page">Page 133</span></a>
+latter may consist of a small stone, piece of lead, or the like,
+and should be suspended by means of a wire bent around it, and
+secured in a hole in the tin by a bend or knot in the other extremity.
+Further explanations are almost superfluous, as our main illustration
+fully explains itself.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After the weight is attached, the platform should be secured in
+its place, about five inches from the top of the box. To accomplish
+this and form the hinges, two shingle-nails should be driven through
+the side of the box into the tin loops prepared for them. To do
+this nicely requires some considerable accuracy and care, and it
+should be so done that the platform will swing with perfect freedom
+and ease, the weight below bringing it to a horizontal poise after
+a few vibrations. Care should be taken that the weight is not too
+heavy, as, in such a case, the platform will not be sensitive on its
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 489px;">
+  <img src="images/fig090.jpg" width="489" height="168" alt="Figure 90">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+balance, and, consequently, would not work so quickly and surely.
+The weight should be <i>just heavy enough</i> to restore the platform
+to its perfect poise, and no more. This can be easily regulated by
+experiment. The bait should then be strewn on both sides of the
+platform, when the trap is set, and the luckless animal, jumping
+after the bait, feels his footing give way, and suddenly finds
+himself in the bottom of a dark box, from which it is impossible
+for him to escape except by gnawing his way out. To prevent this,
+the interior of the box may be lined with tin.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By <i>fastening</i> the bait&mdash;a small lump or piece&mdash;on
+each side of the tin, the trap will continually reset itself, and,
+in this way, two or three individuals may be taken, one after the
+other. Muskrats are frequently caught in this trap, it being generally
+buried in the ground so that its top is on a level with the surface.
+In this case it is necessary to arrange the platform lower down
+in the box, and the latter should be of much larger dimensions
+than the one we have described.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_134"><span class="page">Page 134</span></a>
+For ordinary purposes the box should either be set in the ground or
+placed near some neighboring object which will afford easy access
+to it. No less than a dozen rats have been caught in a trap of
+this kind in a single night.
+</p>
+
+<h4>CAGE TRAP.</h4>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig091.jpg" width="429" height="345" alt="Figure 91">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The common cage trap is well known to most of our readers, and for
+the capture of rats and mice, it is one of the most efficacious
+devices in existence. The construction of one of these traps is
+quite a difficult operation, and we would hesitate before advising
+our inventive reader to exercise his patience and ingenuity in the
+manufacture of an article which can be bought for such a small
+price, and which, after all, is only a mouse trap. If it were a
+device for the capture of the <i>mink</i> or <i>otter</i>, it might
+then be well worth the trouble, and would be likely to repay the
+time and labor expended upon it. We imagine that few would care
+to exercise their skill over a trap of such complicated structure,
+while our pages are filled with other simpler and equally effective
+examples.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For the benefit, however, of such as are of an inventive turn of
+mind, we subjoin an illustration of the trap to serve as a guide.
+The principle upon which it works is very simple. The bait is
+<a name="page_135"><span class="page">Page 135</span></a>
+strewn inside the cage, and the rats or mice find their only access
+to it through the hole at the top. The wires here converge at the
+bottom, and are pointed at the ends. The passage downwards is an
+easy matter, but to <i>escape</i> through the same opening is
+impossible, as the pointed ends of the wires effectually prevent
+the ascent. It is a notable fact, however, that the efforts to escape
+through this opening are very seldom made. The mode of entering
+seems to be absolutely forgotten by the captive animals, and they
+rush frantically about the cage, prying between all the wires in
+their wild endeavors, never seeming to notice the central opening
+by which they entered. This is easily explained by the fact that
+the open grating admits the light from all sides, and the enclosed
+victims are thus attracted to no one spot in particular, and naturally
+rush to the extreme edges of the trap, in the hope of finding an
+exit.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If a thick cloth be placed over the cage, leaving the opening at
+the top uncovered, the confined creatures are soon attracted by
+the light, and lose no time in rushing towards it, where their
+endeavors to ascend are effectually checked by the pointed wires.
+Profiting by this experiment, the author once improvised a simple
+trap on the same principle, which proved very effectual. We will
+call it
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE JAR TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In place of the wire cage, a glass preserve-jar was substituted.
+A few bits of cheese were then dropped inside, and the top of a
+funnel inserted into the opening above. This completed the trap,
+and it was set on the floor near the flour barrel. On the following
+morning the jar was occupied by a little mouse, and each successive
+night for a week added one to the list of victims. A stiff piece
+of tin, bent into the required shape, may be substituted for the
+funnel top, or even a very heavy piece of pasteboard might answer.
+</p>
+
+<h4>BOWL TRAPS.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Very effective extempore traps may be set up in a few minutes by
+the use of a few bowls. There are two methods commonly employed.
+One consists of the bowl and a knife-blade. An ordinary tableknife
+is used and a piece of cheese is firmly forced on to the end of
+the blade, the bowl is then balanced on the edge, allowing the
+bait to project about an inch and a half beneath the bowl. The odor
+of cheese will attract a mouse
+<a name="page_136"><span class="page">Page 136</span></a>
+almost anywhere, and he soon finds his way to the tempting morsel
+in this case. A very slight nibble is sufficient to tilt the blade
+and the bowl falls over its prisoner.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the second method a thimble is used in place of the knife. The
+cheese is forced into its interior, and the open end of the thimble
+inserted far beneath the bowl, allowing about half its length to
+project outward.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The mouse is thus obliged to pass under the bowl in order to reach
+the bait, and in his efforts to grasp the morsel, the thimble is
+dislodged and the captive secured beneath the vessel. Where a small
+thimble is used, it becomes necessary to place a bit of pasteboard
+or flat chip beneath it, in order to raise it sufficiently to afford
+an easy passage for the mouse. Both of these devices are said to
+work excellently.
+</p>
+
+<h3>FLY PAPER.</h3>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A sheet of common paper, smeared with a mixture composed of molasses
+one part, and bird-lime six parts (see <a href="#page_97">page
+97</a>), will be found to attract large numbers of flies and hold
+them prisoners upon its surface.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Spruce gum, warmed on the fire, and mixed with a little linseed
+oil, is also excellent. For a genuine fly trap, the following stands
+unrivalled.
+</p>
+
+<h3>FLY TRAP.</h3>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Take a tumbler, and half-fill it with strong soap suds. Cut a circle
+of stiff paper which will exactly fit into the top of the glass.
+In the centre of the paper cut a hole half an inch in diameter,
+or, better still, a slice of bread may be placed on the glass.
+Smear one side of the disc with molasses, and insert it in the
+tumbler with this side downward. Swarms of flies soon surround
+it, and one by one find their way downward through the hole. Once
+below the paper, and their doom is sealed. For a short time the
+molasses absorbs their attention, and they, in turn, absorb the
+molasses.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In their efforts to escape, they one by one precipitate themselves
+in the soap suds below, where they speedily perish. The tumbler
+is soon half-filled with the dead insects, and where a number of
+the traps are set in a single room, the apartment is soon ridden
+of the pests.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig092.jpg" width="515" height="744"
+ alt="STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.">
+</div>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_137"><span class="page">Page 137</span></a>
+BOOK VI.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="subtitle">STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.</p>
+
+<p><img src="images/fig093.jpg" width="96" height="203" alt="P"
+ style="float: left;">assing from our full and extended illustrated
+list of extempore, or "rough and ready" examples of the trap kind, we
+will now turn our attention to the consideration of that well-known
+implement, the trade <i>steel</i> trap. Although the foregoing varieties
+often serve to good purpose, the Steel Trap is the principal device
+used by professional trappers, and possesses great advantages over
+all other traps. It is portable, sets easily and quickly, either
+on land or beneath the water; can be concealed with ease; secures its
+victims without injury to their fur, and by the application of the
+spring or sliding pole (hereafter described) will most effectually
+prevent the captive from making his escape by self-amputation, besides
+placing him beyond the reach of destruction by other animals.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The author has known trappers who have plied their vocation largely
+by the aid of the various hand made traps, described in the earlier
+pages of this book, and with good success. But in the regular
+<i>business</i> of systematic trapping, their extensive use is
+not common. The experience of modern trappers generally, warrants
+the assertion that for practical utility, from every point of view,
+the steel trap stands unrivalled.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+These traps are made of all sizes, from that suitable for the capture
+of the house rat, to the immense and wieldy machine adapted to the
+grizzly, and known as the "bear tamer."
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+They may be bought at almost any hardware shop, although a large
+portion of the traps ordinarily sold are defective. They should
+be selected with care, and the springs always tested
+<a name="page_138"><span class="page">Page 138</span></a>
+before purchase. Besides the temper of the spring, there are also
+other necessary qualities in a steel trap, which we subjoin in
+order that the amateur may know how to judge and select his weapons
+judiciously.
+</p>
+
+<h4>REQUISITES OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+1. <i>The jaws should not be too thin nor sharp cornered</i>. In
+the cheaper class of steel traps the jaws approach to the thinness
+of sheet-iron, and the result is that the thin edges often sever
+the leg of their would-be captive in a single stroke. At other
+times the leg is so deeply cut as to easily enable the animal to
+gnaw or twist it off. This is the common mode of escape, with many
+animals.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+2. <i>The pan should not be too large</i>. This is a very common
+fault with many steel traps and often defeats its very object.
+Where the pan is small, the foot of the animal in pressing it,
+will be directly in the centre of the snap of the jaw, and he is
+thus firmly secured far up on the leg. On the other hand, a large
+pan nearly filling the space between the jaws as the trap is set,
+may be sprung by a touch on its extreme edge, and the animal's
+toe is thus likely to get slightly pinched, if indeed the paw is
+not thrown off altogether by the forcible snap of the jaw.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+3. <i>The springs should be strong, scientifically tempered, and
+proportioned</i>. The strength of a perfectly tempered spring will
+always remain the same, whether in winter or summer, never losing
+its elasticity. The best of tempering, however, is useless in a
+spring badly formed or clumsily tapered.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+4. The jaws should be so curved as to give the bow of the spring
+a proper sweep to work upon. The jaws should lie <i>flat</i> when
+open, and should always work easily on their hinges.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+5. Every trap should be furnished with a strong chain with ring and
+swivel attached, and in every case the swivel should turn easily.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The celebrated "Newhouse Trap" embodies all the above requisites,
+and has deservedly won a reputation for excellence second to no
+other in this or any other country.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+They are made in eight sizes, as follows:
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<img src="images/fig094.jpg" width="133" height="82" alt="No. 0."
+ style="float: left;">
+This is the smallest size and is known as the RAT TRAP. It has a
+single spring, and the jaws spread three and a half inches when
+set.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<a name="page_139"><span class="page">Page 139</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig095.jpg" width="793" height="583" alt="Figure 95">
+<!-- Page 140 is blank but is referenced by an internal link. -->
+<a name="page_140"></a>
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_141"><span class="page">Page 141</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig096.jpg" width="145" height="68" alt="No. 1."
+ style="float: right; clear: right;">
+This size is called the MUSKRAT TRAP, and the jaws spread four
+inches. It is especially designed for the capture of the mink, marten,
+and animals of similar size.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<img src="images/fig097.jpg" width="232" height="98" alt="No. 2."
+ style="float: right; clear: right;">
+This is known in the trade as the MINK TRAP, and the jaws spread
+nearly five inches. It is adapted for the fox, raccoon, or fisher.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<img src="images/fig098.jpg" width="282" height="88" alt="No. 2-1/2."
+ style="float: right; clear: right;">
+This size is called the FOX TRAP. The spread of the jaws is the
+same as in the foregoing, but the trap is provided with two springs,
+and consequently has double the power. It is strong enough for
+the otter, and is generally used for the capture of the fox and
+fisher.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<img src="images/fig099.jpg" width="312" height="103" alt="No. 3."
+ style="float: right; clear: right;">
+No.3 goes by the name of the OTTER TRAP. The jaws spread five and
+a half inches, and the powerful double springs do excellent service
+in the capture of the beaver, fox, badger, opossum, wild cat, and
+animals of like size.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<img src="images/fig100.jpg" width="343" height="115" alt="No. 4."
+ style="float: right; clear: right;">
+Commonly called the BEAVER TRAP. Jaws spread six and a half inches.
+This size is especially adapted to the wolf, lynx or wolverine. It
+may also be set for deer, and extra sets of jaws are made expressly
+for this purpose, being easily inserted in the place of the ordinary
+jaws, when desired.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_142"><span class="page">Page 142</span></a>
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 743px;">
+  <img src="images/fig101.jpg" width="743" height="261" alt="Figure 101">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+This is known as the "GREAT BEAR TAMER," and is a most formidable
+weapon. The jaws spread sixteen inches, and the weight of the machine
+is forty-two pounds. It is extensively used in the capture of the
+moose and grizzly bear, and is the largest and most powerful steel
+trap made in this or any other country. The springs possess most
+tremendous power, and require to be set by a lever, as the weight
+of an ordinary man has not the slightest effect upon them. This
+lever may be easily applied, as follows: Have at hand four stout
+straps, supplied with buckles. These should always be carried by
+the trapper, where the larger double-spring traps are used. To
+adjust the lever, cut four heavy sticks about three feet long.
+Take two of them and secure their ends together, side by side,
+with one of the straps. Now insert the spring of the trap between
+them, near the strap. Bear down heavily on the other extremity of
+the lever, and the spring will be found to yield easily, after
+which the remaining ends of the levers should be secured by a second
+strap. The other spring should now be treated in the same way,
+after which the jaws should be spread and the pan adjusted. The
+removal of the straps and
+<a name="page_143"><span class="page">Page 143</span></a>
+levers is now an easy matter, after which the trap is set. The stoutest
+spring is easily made to yield by such treatment.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig102.jpg" width="433" height="162" alt="No. 5.">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The SMALL BEAR TRAP. The jaws of this size spread nearly a foot,
+and the weight of the trap is seventeen pounds. It is used in the
+capture of the black bear, puma, and animals of similar size.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+All of the foregoing are supplied with swivels and chains.
+</p>
+
+<h4>HINTS ON BAITING THE STEEL TRAP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There is a very common and erroneous idea current among amateur
+sportsmen and others in regard to the baiting of the steel trap;
+viz., that the pan of the trap is intended for the <i>bait</i>.
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 377px;">
+  <img src="images/fig103.jpg" width="377" height="262" alt="Figure 40">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+This was the old custom in the traps of bygone times, but no modern
+trap is intended to be so misused, and would indeed often defeat
+its object in such a case, wherein it will be easily
+<a name="page_144"><span class="page">Page 144</span></a>
+seen. The object of the professional trapper is the acquisition
+of furs; and a prime fur skin should be without break or bruise,
+from nose to tail. A trap set as above described, would of course
+catch its victim by the head or neck, and the fur would be more
+or less injured at the very spot where it should be particularly
+free from blemish.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The true object of the steel trap is, that it shall take the animal
+by the <i>leg</i>, thus injuring the skin only in a part where it
+is totally valueless.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We give, then, this imperative rule&mdash;<i>Never bait a steel
+trap on the pan</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The pan is intended for the <i>foot</i> of the game, and in order
+to insure capture by this means, the bait should be so placed as
+that the attention of the animal will be <i>drawn away</i> from the
+trap; the latter being in such a position as will cause the victim
+to <i>step in it</i> when reaching for the tempting allurement.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are several ways of doing this, one of which we here illustrate.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A pen of stakes, in the shape of the letter V, is first constructed.
+The trap is then set in the angle, and the bait attached to the
+end stake directly over it. Another method is shown in the picture
+on our title-page to this section, the bait being suspended on a
+stick above the trap. There are various other methods on the same
+principle, which will be described hereafter, under the titles of
+the various game.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE SPRING POLE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is nearly always used in connection with the steel trap, in
+the capture of the smaller land animals. It not only lifts the
+creature into the air, and thus prevents its becoming a prey to
+other animals, but it also guards against the escape of the victim
+by the amputation of its own leg. This is a very common mode of
+release with many kinds of game&mdash;notably the mink, marten,
+and muskrat; and for the successful trapping of these, as well
+as many other animals, the spring and sliding pole are absolute
+necessities. It is a simple contrivance, consisting merely of a
+pole inserted in the ground near the trap. The pole is then bent
+down, and the trap chain secured to its end. A small, notched peg
+is next driven into the ground and the top of the pole caught in
+it, and thus held in a bent position. When the animal is caught, its
+struggles release the pole, and the latter, flying up with a jerk,
+<a name="page_145"><span class="page">Page 145</span></a>
+lifts the trap and its occupant high in the air, out of the reach
+of marauders, and beyond the power of escape by self-amputation.
+Even in the capture of large game the spring pole often serves to
+good purpose. The struggles of a heavy animal are often so violent
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 377px;">
+  <img src="images/fig104.jpg" width="449" height="352" alt="Figure 104">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+as to break a stout trap or chain; and the force of the spring
+pole, although not sufficient to raise the animal from its feet,
+often succeeds in easing the strain, and often thus saves a trap
+from being broken to pieces. The power of the pole must of course
+be proportionate to the weight of the desired game.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE SLIDING POLE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The first impulse with almost every aquatic animal when caught in
+a trap, is to plunge headlong into deep water. With the smaller
+animals, such as the mink and muskrat, this is all that is desired by
+the trapper, as the weight of the trap with the chain is sufficient
+to drown its victim. But with larger animals, the beaver and otter
+for instance, an additional precaution, in the shape of the "sliding
+pole," is necessary. This consists of a pole about ten feet long,
+smoothly trimmed of its branches, excepting at the tip, where a
+few stubs should be left. Insert this end obliquely into the bed
+of the stream, where the water is
+<a name="page_146"><span class="page">Page 146</span></a>
+deep, and secure the large end to the bank by means of a hooked
+stick, as seen in our illustration. The ring of the chain should
+be large enough to slide easily down the entire length of the pole.
+When the trap is set, the ring should be slipped on the large end
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 466px;">
+  <img src="images/fig105.jpg" width="466" height="266" alt="Figure 105">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+of the pole, and held in place by resting a stick against it. The
+animal, when caught, plunges off into deep water, and guided by
+the pole, is led to the bottom of the river. The ring slides down
+to the bed of the stream, and there holds its victim until drowned.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE CLOG.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A trap which is set for heavy game should never be secured to a
+stake. Many of the larger and more powerful animals when caught
+in a trap thus secured, are apt either to pull or twist their legs
+off, or break both trap and chain to pieces. To guard against this,
+the chain should be weighted with a pole or small log, of a size
+proportionate to the dimensions of the game, its weight being merely
+sufficient to offer a serious incumbrance to the animal, without
+positively checking its movements. This impediment is called the
+"clog," and is usually attached to the ring of the trap chain by
+its larger end, the ring being slipped over the latter, and secured
+in place by a wedge. A look at our frontispiece will give a clear
+idea of both clog and attachment.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_147"><span class="page">Page 147</span></a>
+THE GRAPPLING IRON.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This answers the same purpose as the above, and is often used instead.
+It is manufactured in connection with the larger steel traps, and
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 169px;">
+  <img src="images/fig106.jpg" width="169" height="343" alt="Figure 106">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+is attached to the chain by a swivel joint. Its general shape is
+shown in an engraving, and it offers a serious resistance to the
+victim, who endeavors to run away with it.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The business of trapping for profit must be confined to the season
+between the first of October and the beginning of May, as furs
+of all kinds are worthless when taken during the other months of
+the year. The reason for this is obvious. A "<i>prime fur</i>" must
+be "<i>thick</i>" and "<i>full</i>," and as all our fur-bearing
+animals shed their heavy winter coats as warm weather approaches,
+it necessarily follows that the capture at this season would be
+unprofitable. As the autumn approaches the new growth appears,
+and the fur becomes thick and glossy. By the middle of October
+most furs are in their prime, but the heart of winter is the best
+time for general trapping. The furs of the
+<a name="page_148"><span class="page">Page 148</span></a>
+mink, muskrat, fisher, marten and beaver are not in their perfect
+prime until this season. And <i>all</i> other furs are <i>sure</i>
+to be in good condition at this time.
+</p>
+
+<h3>THE ART OF TRAPPING.</h3>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From time immemorial, and in every nation of the world, the art
+of trapping has been more or less practised. By some as a means
+of supplying their wants in the shape of daily food, and by others
+for the purpose of merchandise or profit.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+To be a clever and successful trapper, much more is required than
+is generally supposed. The mere fact of a person's being able to
+set a trap cleverly and judiciously forms but a small part of his
+proficiency; and unless he enters deeper into the subject and learns
+something of the nature and habits of the animals he intends to
+catch, his traps will be set in vain, or at best meet with but
+indifferent success. The study of natural history here becomes
+a matter of necessity as well as pleasure and profit. And unless
+the trapper thoroughly acquaints himself with the habits of his
+various game, the sagacity and cunning of his intended victim will
+often outwit his most shrewd endeavors, much to his chagrin. The
+sense of smell, so largely developed in many animals, becomes one
+of the trappers most serious obstacles, and seems at times to amount
+almost to positive <i>reason</i>, so perfectly do the creatures baffle
+the most ingenious attempts of man in his efforts to capture them.
+A little insight into the ways of these artful animals, however,
+and a little experience with their odd tricks soon enables one
+to cope with them successfully and overcome their whims. For the
+benefit of the amateur who has not had the opportunity of studying
+for himself, the peculiarities of the various game, the author
+appends a comprehensive chapter on "Practical Natural History,"
+in which will be found full accounts of the peculiar habits and
+leading characteristics of all the various animals commonly sought
+by the trapper, together with detailed directions for trapping
+each variety, supplemented with a faithful portrait of the animal
+in nearly every instance. A careful reading of the above mentioned
+chapter will do much towards acquainting the novice with the ways
+of the sly creatures, which he hopes to victimize, and will thus
+prepare him to contend with them successfully.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the art of trapping the bait is often entirely dispensed with,
+the traps being set and carefully concealed in the <i>runways</i>
+of the various animals. These by-paths are easily detected by an
+<a name="page_149"><span class="page">Page 149</span></a>
+experienced trapper, and are indicated either by footprints or
+other evidences of the animal, together with the matted leaves and
+broken twigs and grasses.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Natural channels, such as hollow logs or crevices between rocks
+or fallen trees, offer excellent situations for steel traps, and
+a good trapper is always on the <i>qui vive</i> for such chance
+advantages, thus often saving much of the time and labor which
+would otherwise be spent in the building of artificial enclosures,
+etc.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The most effective baits used in the art of trapping are those
+which are used to attract the animal through its sense of smell, as
+distinct from that of its mere appetite for food. These baits are
+known in the profession as "medicine," or scent baits and possess
+the most remarkable power of attracting the various animals from
+great distances, and leading them almost irresistibly to any desired
+spot. Such is the barks tone or castoreum, of such value in the
+capture of the beaver, and the oil of anise, so commonly used for
+the trapping of animals in general. These various substances will
+presently be considered under their proper heading.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Many detailed and specific directions on the subject of trapping
+will be found in the long chapter following; and, in closing our
+preliminary remarks, we would add just one more word of general
+caution, which the young trapper should always bear in mind.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In all cases avoid handling the trap with the bare hand. Many an
+amateur has set and <i>reset</i> his traps in vain, and retired from
+the field of trapping in disgust, from the mere want of observing
+this rule. Animals of keen scent are quick in detecting the slightest
+odors, and that left by the touch of a human hand often suffices to
+drive the creature away from a trap which, under other circumstances,
+would have been its certain destruction. To be sure the various
+scent baits already alluded to, will in a measure overcome human
+traces, but not always effectually, and in order to insure success no
+precautions so simple should be neglected. A pair of clean buckskin
+gloves are valuable requisites to the trapper, and should always
+be "on hand" when setting or transporting traps.
+</p>
+
+<h4>"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+These form one of the most important requisites of the trapper's
+art. A trap baited simply with the food of the
+<a name="page_150"><span class="page">Page 150</span></a>
+required animal, may and often will be successful, but with the
+addition of the trapper's "medicine" judicially applied, success
+is almost a certainty. These scent baits are of various kinds,
+some being almost universal in their usefulness, while others are
+attractive only to some particular species of animal. We give a
+few of the recipes of the most valued preparations used by trappers
+throughout the land. The application and use of each is fully described
+in its proper place hereafter.
+</p>
+
+<h4>CASTOREUM.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This substance, commonly known as "<i>Barkstone</i>," by trappers
+and fur dealers, is obtained from the beaver, and is a remarkable
+aid in the capture of that animal. It is an acrid secretion of a
+powerful musky odor, found in two glands beneath the root of the
+tail of the beaver. These glands are about two inches in length.
+They are cut out and the contents are squeezed into a small bottle.
+When fresh the substance is of a yellowish-red color, changing to
+a light-brown when dried. Both male and female animals yield the
+castoreum, but that of the male is generally considered the best.
+Castoreum is a commercial drug, and in many beaver countries it
+is quite an article of trade. There are other sacs lying directly
+behind the castor glands which contain a strong oil of rancid smell.
+This should not be confounded with the Castoreum.
+</p>
+
+<h4>CASTOREUM COMPOSITION.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Barkstone is used both pure and in combination with other
+substances, the following prescription being much used: Into the
+contents of about ten of the castor bags, mix two ground nutmegs,
+thirty or forty cloves, also powdered, one drop essence of peppermint,
+and about two thimblefuls of ground cinnamon. Into this stir as
+much whisky as will give the whole the consistency of paste, after
+which the preparation should be bottled and kept carefully corked.
+At the expiration of a few days the odor increases ten-fold in power
+and is ready for use. A bottle, if thus prepared, will retain its
+strength for nearly a half year, provided it is kept closely corked.
+A few drops of either the pure castoreum or the combination spread
+upon the bait or in the neighborhood of the trap, as described
+under the chapter on the Beaver, will entice that animal from a
+great distance.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_151"><span class="page">Page 151</span></a>
+MUSK.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This substance is a secretion obtained from several different animals,
+notably the otter and muskrat. The glands which contain it are
+located similarly to the castor glands of the beaver, and the musk
+should be discharged into a vial, as previously described. The
+musk of the female muskrat is said to be the most powerful, and
+is chiefly used by trappers in the capture of that animal, the
+otter being chiefly attracted by its own musk.
+</p>
+
+<h4>ASSAF&OElig;TIDA.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This foul smelling production seems to have a specially attractive
+fragrance to many animals, and for general use is much esteemed by
+trappers. It is a vegetable drug from Persia and the East Indies,
+and is imported in the form of concrete juice, of a brown color.
+</p>
+
+<h4>OIL OF RHODIUM.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is a vegetable oil obtained from a species of rose, and is
+quite costly. Its power of attracting animals is surprising, and
+it is in very common use among trappers.
+</p>
+
+<h4>FISH OIL.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is especially useful in the capture of the majority of the
+fur tribe, and particularly the water animals.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The oil may be bought ready for use, or prepared with little trouble.
+The common method consists in cutting up fish of any kind, especially
+eels, into small bits, putting them in a bottle, and setting the
+latter in the full exposure to the sun. It should thus be left
+for about two weeks, at the end of which time a rancid oil will
+have formed. A few drops of this oil will entice many animals from
+surprising distances, often drawing their attention to a bait which
+otherwise they might never have scented.
+</p>
+
+<h4>OIL OF SKUNK.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This, the <i>ne plus ultra</i>, or quintessence of diabolical stench,
+yields the tempting savor which irresistibly attracts many animals to
+their final doom. It is contained in a pouch beneath the insertion
+of the tail of the animal, and is spread abroad by the
+<a name="page_152"><span class="page">Page 152</span></a>
+creature with lavish extravagance when circumstances demand, or we
+might say when occasion permits. It may be taken from the animal
+and bottled as already described in other instances, chloride of
+lime being used to eradicate the stench from the hands.
+</p>
+
+<h4>OIL OF AMBER.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This substance is frequently referred to in the following pages,
+and is a vegetable product of the amber gum of commerce. The Oil
+of Ambergris is also sometimes used by trappers, and is likewise
+known as Amber Oil. The two are thus often confounded, although
+the former is supposed to be most generally used.
+</p>
+
+<h4>OIL OF ANISE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is strongly recommended by many trappers as a most excellent
+"universal medicine." It is a vegetable product, and is obtainable
+at any drug store.
+</p>
+
+<h4>SWEET FENNEL.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This plant is commonly cultivated all over the United States, and
+the seeds are often powdered and used as a scent bait. The Oil of
+Fennel is preferable, however, and may be had at almost any drug
+store.
+</p>
+
+<h4>CUMMIN.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is another plant, somewhat resembling the former, and, like
+it, cultivated for its seeds. It has an aromatic taste, and its
+strong pungent odor renders it of great value to the trapper. The
+seeds may be powdered and thus used, or the oil of the plant may
+be easily procured. The latter is preferable.
+</p>
+
+<h4>FENUGREEK.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Like the two foregoing this plant is valuable for its seeds, which
+are used for medicinal purposes. The oil or bruised seeds may be
+used.
+</p>
+
+<h4>LAVENDER.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is another aromatic plant, the oil of which, either pure or
+diluted with alcohol, is much used in the trapper's art.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_153"><span class="page">Page 153</span></a>
+COMPOUND.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For ordinary use, a mixture of Assaf&oelig;tida, Musk, Oil of Anise,
+and Fish Oil, together with a few drops of the Oil of Rhodium, is
+especially recommended by our most skilled trappers. This preparation
+contains the various substances which are known to attract the
+different fur bearing animals, and its use often insures success
+where anyone of the simple substances would be ineffectual.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE TRAIL.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The object of the "trail" consists in offering a leading scent
+which, when followed, will bring the animal to the various traps,
+and when properly made will be the means of drawing large numbers
+of game from all quarters and from great distances, whereas without
+it the traps might remain undiscovered.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Trails are sometimes made to connect a line of traps, as when set
+along the banks of streams for mink, etc., at other times, as in
+trapping the fox, for instance, they should extend from the trap on
+all sides, like the spokes of a wheel from the hub, thus covering
+considerable area, and rendering success more certain than it would
+be without this precaution.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The combination "medicine" just described is excellent for the
+purposes of a trail for minks, otter, muskrat, and many other animals.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Soak a piece of meat, or piece of wood in the preparation, and
+drag it along the ground between the traps. A dead fish smeared
+with the fluid will also answer the same purpose. The soles of
+the boots may also be smeared with the "medicine" and the trail
+thus accomplished. Trails of various kinds are considered under
+their respective and appropriate heads in the chapters on animals,
+all of which will be found useful and effective.
+</p>
+
+<h3>HOW TO TRAP.</h3>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the following pages will be found full and ample directions
+for the trapping of all our leading game, together with detailed
+descriptions of peculiar habits of each species. The various articles
+contain careful descriptions, whereby the species may be readily
+recognized, and, in nearly every case, are accompanied by faithful
+illustrations. We add also valuable directions for the best manner of
+removing the skin of each animal, this being a matter of considerable
+importance, as affecting their pecuniary value.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_154"><span class="page">Page 154</span></a>
+THE FOX.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Foremost in the list of animals noted for their sly craft, and
+the hero of a host of fables and well-authenticated stories, in
+which artful cunning gains the advantage over human intelligence,
+Reynard, the fox, reigns supreme. There is scarcely a professional
+trapper in the land who has not, in his day, been hoodwinked by the
+wily strategy of this sly creature, whose extreme cunning renders
+him the most difficult of all animals to trap. The fox belongs to
+the Dog family, and there are six varieties inhabiting the United
+States. The red species is the most common and is too well known
+to need a description here. The Cross Fox considerably resembles
+the above, only being much darker in color, the red hair being
+thickly speckled with black. This species varies considerably in
+color in different individuals, often much resembling the red variety,
+and again approaching nearer in color to the Black or Silver Fox.
+This variation, together with the name of the animal, has given
+rise among trappers to the wide-spread belief of the animal being
+a cross between the two species which it so nearly resembles. It
+seems to be a permanent variety, however, the term cross being
+applied, we believe, on account of a dark marking on the back,
+between the shoulders of the animal, suggestive of that title.
+The Silver or Black Fox is the most beautiful and most rare of the
+genus, and yields the most valuable fur produced in this country.
+Its color is black, with the exception of the tip of the tail,
+which is white. The Prairie Fox is the largest of the species. It
+inhabits the Western Prairies, and in color resembles the common
+red variety, only being a trifle yellower.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Kit, or Swift Fox, is smaller than the Red, and abounds in the
+Western States.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Gray Fox is a Southern variety, and is very beautiful. It is
+less daring and cunning than the Common Fox, and seldom approaches
+a farm-yard, where it is in close proximity to a dwelling.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The general habits and characteristics of all the foxes are similar.
+For natural cunning they take the lead of all other animals. They
+are all built for speed, and their senses of smell and hearing
+are acutely developed. Their food consists of wild fowl of all
+kinds, rabbits, squirrels, birds and their eggs, together with
+many kinds of ripe fruits, "sour grapes" not included. They live
+in burrows, often usurped, or crevices
+<a name="page_155"><span class="page">Page 155</span></a>
+between rocks; and their young, from three to nine in number, are
+brought forth in March.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We are strongly tempted to narrate a few remarkable instances of
+the animal's cunning, but we forbear for want of space. Our reader
+must take it for granted that when he attempts to trap a fox, he
+will be likely to find more than his match in the superior craftiness
+of that animal. If the trap is overturned and the bait gone, or if
+repeatedly sprung and found empty, he must not be surprised or
+discouraged, for he is experiencing only what all other trappers
+have experienced before him. There are instances on record where
+this knowing creature has sprung the trap by dropping a stick upon
+the pan, afterwards removing the suspended bait to enjoy it at
+his leisure. His movements are as lithe and subtile as those of
+a snake, and when "cornered" there is no telling what caper that
+cunning instinct and subtlety of body will not lead him to perform.
+When pursued by hounds he has been known to lead them a long chase
+at full speed up to the crest of a hill: here he leaps a shrub,
+swiftly as an arrow, and landing on the ground on the opposite
+declivity quickly returns beneath the brushwood and crouches down
+closely upon the ground. Presently the hounds come along in full
+cry, and blazing scent they dart over the shrub in full pursuit,
+dash down the hillside, never stopping until at the bottom of the
+hill they find they are off the trail. As soon as the hounds are
+passed, sly Reynard cautiously takes to his legs: creeping adroitly
+back over the brow of the hill, he runs for a considerable distance
+on his back trail, and at last, after taking a series of long jumps
+therefrom returns to his covert at leisure. Page after page might
+be filled to the glory of this creature's cunning, but enough has
+been said to give the young trapper an insight into the character
+of the animal he hopes to victimize, and prepare him for a trial
+of skill which, without this knowledge, would be a most one-sided
+affair.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We would not advise our young amateur to calculate very confidently
+on securing a fox at the first attempt, but we can truthfully vouch
+that if the creature can be <i>caught at all</i>, it can be done
+by following the directions we now give.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+One of the most essential things in the trapping of this, as well
+as nearly all animals, is that the trap should be <i>perfectly clean
+and free from rust</i>. The steel trap No.2, <a href="#page_141">page
+141</a> is the best for animals of the size of the Fox. The trap
+should be washed in weak lye, being afterwards well greased and
+finally smoked over burning hen's feathers.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_156"><span class="page">Page 156</span></a>
+All this and even more precaution is necessary. No matter how strongly
+scented the trap may be, with the smoke, or other substances, a mere
+touch of the bare hand will leave a <i>human scent</i> which the
+fox perceives as soon as the other, and this is enough to deaden
+his enthusiasm over the most tempting bait.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On this account, it is necessary always to handle the trap with
+buckskin gloves, never allowing the bare hand to come in contact
+with it, on any account, after once prepared for setting.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Before arranging the trap for its work, it is necessary to construct
+what is called a "bed." There are several methods of doing this;
+but from all we can learn from the most experienced trappers, the
+following is the most successful. The bed should be made on flat
+ground, using any of the following substances: Buckwheat chaff,
+which is the best, oat, wheat, or hay chaff, or in lieu of these,
+moss or wood ashes. Let the bed be three feet in diameter, and an
+inch and a half in depth. To insure success it is the best plan
+to bait the bed itself for several days with scraps of beef or
+cheese strewn upon, and near it. If the fox once visits the place,
+discovers the tempting morsels and enjoys a good meal unmolested,
+he will be sure to revisit the spot so long as he finds a "free
+lunch" awaiting him. When he is found to come regularly and take
+the bait, he is as good as caught, provided our instructions are
+carefully followed. Take the trap, previously prepared as already
+described, chain it securely to a small log of wood about two feet
+long. Dig a hole in the earth in the centre of the bed, large enough
+to receive the trap, with its log, and chain. Set the traps, supporting
+the pan by pushing some of the chaff beneath it. Now lay a piece
+of paper over the pan and sprinkle the chaff over it evenly and
+smoothly, until every trace of the trap and its appendages is
+obliterated. Endeavor to make the bed look as it has previously
+done, and bait it with the same materials. Avoid treading much
+about the bed and step in the same tracks as far as possible. Touch
+nothing with the naked hands. Cover up all the footprints as much
+as possible, and leave the trap to take care of itself and any
+intruder. If our directions have been accurately followed, and due
+care has been exercised on the part of the young trapper, there
+is every probability that the next morning will reward him with
+his fox. But if a day or two elapse without success, it is well to
+resort to the "scent baits" described on <a href="#page_149">page
+149</a>. Take the trap out of the bed, and with a feather smear
+it with melted beeswax, or rub it with a little Oil of Rhodium,
+Assaf&oelig;tida, or Musk. Oil of Amber, and Lavender water are
+also used for the same
+<a name="page_157"><span class="page">Page 157</span></a>
+purpose by many professional trappers. These are not always necessary
+but are often used as a last resort, and will most always insure
+success.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another method of baiting is shown in our page illustration opposite,
+and consists in suspending the bait by a stick in such a position
+that the fox will be obliged to step upon the trap in order to
+reach it. The bed should be baited in this way several times before
+the trap is set. This method is very commonly employed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another still, is to bury the dead body of a rabbit or bird in
+loose earth, covering the whole with chaff. Sprinkle a few drops
+of Musk, or Oil of Amber over the bed. After the fox has taken
+the bait, the place should be rebaited and the trap inserted in
+the mound and covered with the chaff, being scented as before.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Some trappers employ the following method with good results: The
+trap is set, in a spring or at the edge of a small shallow brook
+and attached by a chain to a stake in the bank, the chain being
+under water. There should be only about an inch and a half of water
+over the trap, and its distance from the shore should be about
+a foot and a half, or even less. In order to induce the fox to
+place his foot in the trap it is necessary to cut a sod of grass,
+just the size of the inside of the jaws of the trap, and place it
+over the pan, so that it will project above the water and offer
+a tempting foot rest for the animal while he reaches for the bait
+which rests in the water just beyond. To accomplish this device
+without springing the trap by the weight of the sod, it is necessary
+to brace up the pan from beneath with a small perpendicular stick,
+sufficiently to neutralize the pressure from above. The bait may
+be a dead rabbit or bird thrown on the water outside of the trap
+and about a foot from it, being secured by a string and peg. If
+the fox spies the bait he will be almost sure to step upon the
+sod to reach it, and thus get caught.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If none of these methods are successful, the young trapper may
+at least content himself with the idea that the particular fox
+he is after is an <i>old fellow</i> and is "not to be caught with
+chaff" or any thing else,&mdash;for if these devices will not secure
+him <i>nothing</i> will. If he is a young and comparatively
+unsophisticated specimen, he will fall an easy victim to any of
+the foregoing stratagems.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Although steel traps are generally used in the capture of foxes,
+a cleverly constructed and baited dead-fall such as is described
+on <a href="#page_113">page 113</a> will often do capital service
+in that direction. By
+<a name="page_158"><span class="page">Page 158</span></a>
+arranging and baiting the trap as therein described, even a fox
+is <i>likely to become</i> its prey.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+To skin the fox the pelt should be first ripped down each hind
+leg to the vent. The skin being cut loose around this point, the
+bone of the tail should next be removed. This may be done by holding
+a split stick tightly over the bone after which the latter may be
+easily pulled out of the skin.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The hide should then be drawn back, and carefully removed, working
+with caution around the legs, and particularly so about the eyes,
+ears, and lips when these points are reached. The skin should be
+stretched as described on <a href="#page_273">page 273</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE WOLF.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The United States are blessed with several species of this animal.
+The Grey Wolf, which is the largest, and the smaller, Prairie Wolf
+or Coyote, being the most commonly known. There are also the White
+Wolf, Black Wolf and the Texan or Red Wolf. In outward form they
+all bear a considerable resemblance to each other, and their habits
+are generally similar in the different varieties.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Wolves are fierce and dangerous animals, and are very powerful of
+limb and fleet of foot. They are extremely cowardly in character,
+and will seldom attack man or animal except when by their greater
+numbers they would be sure of victory. Wolves are found in almost
+every quarter of the globe. Mountain and plain, field, jungle and
+prairie are alike infested with them, and they hunt in united bands,
+feeding upon almost any animal which by their combined attacks
+they can overpower.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Their inroads upon herds and sheep folds are sometimes horrifying,
+and a single wolf has been known to kill as many as forty sheep
+in a single night, seemingly from mere blood-thirsty desire.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the early colonization of America, wolves ran wild over the
+country in immense numbers, and were a source of great danger;
+but now, owing to wide-spread civilization, they have disappeared
+from the more settled localities and are chiefly found in Western
+wilds and prairie lands.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Grey Wolf is the largest and most formidable representative of
+the Dog tribe on this continent. Its general appearance is truthfully
+given in our drawing. Its length, exclusive of the tail, is about
+four feet, the length of the tail being about a foot and a half.
+Its color varies from yellowish grey to almost
+<a name="page_159"><span class="page">Page 159</span></a>
+white in the northern countries, in which latitude the animal is
+sometimes found of an enormous size, measuring nearly seven feet in
+length. The fur is coarse and shaggy about the neck and haunches,
+and the tail is bushy. They abound in the region east of the Rocky
+Mountains and northward, and travel in packs of hundreds in search
+of prey. Bisons, wild horses, deer and even bears fall victims
+to their united fierceness, and human beings, too, often fall a
+prey to their ferocious attacks.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Coyote, or Common Prairie Wolf, also known as the Burrowing
+Wolf, as its name implies inhabits the Western plains and prairies.
+They are much smaller than the Grey Wolf, and not so dangerous. They
+travel in bands and unitedly attack whatever animal they desire
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 278px;">
+  <img src="images/fig107.jpg" width="496" height="315" alt="Figure 107">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+to kill. Their homes are made in burrows which they excavate in the
+ground. The Texan Wolf inhabits the latitude of Texas and southward.
+It is of a tawny red color and nearly as large as the grey species,
+possessing the same savage nature.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In April or May the female wolf retires to her burrow or den, and
+her young, from six to ten in number, are brought forth.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The wolf is almost as sly and cunning as the fox, and the same
+caution is required in trapping the animal. They are extremely keen
+scented, and the mere touch of a human hand on the trap is often
+enough to preclude the possibility of capture. A mere footprint,
+or the scent of tobacco juice, they look upon
+<a name="page_160"><span class="page">Page 160</span></a>
+with great suspicion, and the presence of either will often prevent
+success.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The same directions given in regard to trapping the fox are equally
+adapted for the wolf. The trap (size No, 4, <a href="#page_141">page
+141</a>) should be smoked or smeared with beeswax or blood, and set
+in a bed of ashes or other material as therein described, covering
+with moss, chaff, leaves or some other light substance. The clog should
+be fully twice as heavy as that used for the fox. Some trappers rub
+the traps with "brake leaves," sweet fern, or even skunk's cabbage.
+Gloves should always be worn in handling the traps, and all tracks
+should be obliterated as much as if a fox were the object sought
+to be secured.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A common way of securing the wolf consists in setting the trap
+in a spring or puddle of water, throwing the dead body of some
+large animal in the water beyond the trap in such a position that
+the wolf will be obliged to tread upon the trap, in order to reach
+the bait. This method is described both under the head of the Fox
+and the Bear.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another plan is to fasten the bait between two trees which are
+very close together, setting a trap on each side and carefully
+concealing them as already directed, and securing each to a clog
+of about twenty pounds in weight. The enclosure described on <a
+href="#page_144">page 144</a> is also successful.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are various scent or trail baits used in trapping the wolf.
+Oil of Assaf&oelig;tida is by many trappers considered the best, but
+Oil of Rhodium, powdered fennel, fenugreek and Cummin Oil are also
+much used. It is well to smear a little of the first mentioned oil
+near the traps, using any one of the other substances, or indeed a
+mixture of them all, for the trail. This may be made by smearing the
+preparation on the sole of the boots and walking in the direction
+of the traps, or by dragging from one trap to another a piece of
+meat scented with the substance, as described under the head of
+Mink.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The wolf is an adept at feigning death, playing "'possum" with a
+skill which would do credit to that veritable animal itself.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A large dead-fall, constructed of logs, <a href="#page_17">page
+17</a>, when skilfully scented and baited, will often allure a
+wolf into its clutches, and a very strong twitch-up, with a noose
+formed of heavy wire, or a strip of stout calf hide, will successfully
+capture the crafty creature.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In skinning the wolf the hide may be removed either by, first ripping
+up the belly, or in a circular piece, as described connection with
+the fox, both methods being much used. The
+<a name="page_161"><span class="page">Page 161</span></a>
+board and hoop stretchers used in preparing the skin are described
+on <a href="#page_273">pages 273</a> and <a href="#page_275">275</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE PUMA.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The puma, commonly known also as the panther or cougar, is the
+largest American representative of the Cat tribe, and for this
+reason is often dignified by the name of the "American Lion." It
+is found more or less abundantly throughout the United States;
+and although not generally considered a dangerous foe to mankind,
+it has often been known in the wild districts to steal upon the
+traveller unawares, and in many instances human beings have fallen
+a prey to the powerful claws and teeth of this powerful animal.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The life of the puma is mostly in the trees. Crouching upon the
+branches it watches for, or steals, cat-like, upon its prey. Should
+a solitary animal pass within reach, the puma will not hesitate in
+pouncing upon the unfortunate creature; but if a herd of animals,
+or party of men, should be travelling together, the caution of
+the brute asserts itself, and he will often dog their footsteps
+for a great distance, in hopes of securing a straggler. Birds are
+struck down by a single blow of the puma's ready paw, and so quick
+are his movements that even though a bird has risen on the wing,
+he can often make one of his wonderful bounds, and with a light,
+quick stroke, arrest the winged prey before it has time to soar
+beyond reach. The puma is a good angler. Sitting by the water's
+edge he watches for his victims, and no sooner does an unfortunate
+fish swim within reach, than the nimble paw is outstretched, and
+it is swept out of the water on dry land, and eagerly devoured.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A puma has been known to follow the track of travellers for days
+together, only daring to show itself at rare intervals, and never
+endeavoring to make an attack except through stealth. The animal
+will often approach cautiously upon a traveller until sufficiently
+near to make its fatal spring; but if the pursued party suddenly turn
+round and face the crawling creature, the beast becomes discomfited
+at once, and will retreat from the gaze which seems to it a positive
+terror. So long as a puma can be kept in sight, no danger need be
+feared from the animal but it will improve every opportunity of
+springing unobservedly upon a heedless passer by. The total length
+of the puma is six feet and a half, of which the tail occupies a
+little over two feet. Its color is of a uniform light tawny tint,
+fading into light grey on
+<a name="page_162"><span class="page">Page 162</span></a>
+the under parts, and the tip of the tail is black. The puma is
+one of the few members of the Cat tribe, which are without the
+usual spots or stripes so observable in the tiger and leopard. The
+lion has the same uniformity of color, and it is perhaps partly on
+that account that the panther is so often known as the American lion.
+In infancy the young pumas possess decided tiger-like markings, and
+leopard-like spots, but these disappear altogether as the animal
+increases in size. The cougar has learned by experience a wholesome
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 461px;">
+  <img src="images/fig108.jpg" width="461" height="374" alt="Figure 108">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+fear of man, and as civilization has extended throughout our country,
+the animals have been forced to retire from the neighborhood of
+human habitations and hide themselves in thick, uncultivated forest
+lands.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Sometimes, however, the animal, urged by fierce hunger, will venture
+on a marauding expedition for several miles, and although not an
+object of personal dread to the inhabitants, he often becomes a
+pestilent neighbor to the farmer, committing great ravages among
+his flocks and herds, and making sad havoc in his poultry yard.
+It is not the fortune of every puma, however, to reside in the
+neighborhood of such easy prey as pigs, sheep and poultry, and the
+greater number of these animals are
+<a name="page_163"><span class="page">Page 163</span></a>
+forced to depend for their subsistence on their own success in chasing
+or surprising the various animals on which they feed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When a puma is treed by hunters, it is said to show great skill
+in selecting a spot wherein it shall be best concealed from the
+gazers below, and will even draw the neighboring branches about
+its body to hide itself from the aim of the hunter's rifle. While
+thus lying upon the branches the beast is almost invisible from
+below, as its fur, when seen, harmonizes so well with the the bark
+which covers the boughs, that the one can scarcely be distinguished
+from the other.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The puma loves to hide in the branches of trees, and from this
+eminence to launch itself upon the doomed animal that may pass within
+its reach. It may, therefore, be easily imagined how treacherous a
+foe the creature may be when ranging at will among the countless
+trees and jungles of our American forests.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Although so stealthy and sly a creature the cougar possesses very little
+cunning and is easily trapped. The Gun trap, <a href="#page_20">page
+20</a>, is commonly and successfully employed in South America
+in the capture of the jaguar, as our title illustration, <a
+href="#page_15">page 15</a>, represents, and it may also be used
+with the same success in trapping the puma. The Bow trap, <a
+href="#page_23">page 23</a>, and the dead-fall described in the
+early part of the book, will all be found to work admirably in the
+destruction of this treacherous beast.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The animal may be entrapped alive, should any of our young trappers
+dare to try the experiment.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are two ways of accomplishing this. The first is by the aid
+of a huge coop of logs, as described on <a href="#page_30">page
+30</a> or <a href="#page_33">33</a>, and the other by the Pit-fall,
+as exemplified on <a href="#page_31">page 31</a>. Huge twitch-ups
+may also be constructed, using very strong wire. The bait may consist
+of a fowl, sheep's head, or the heart of any animal. Fresh meat of
+any kind will answer the purpose, and in the case of the Pit-fall
+a live fowl is preferable to a dead one as it will attract the
+puma by its motions, or by its cackling, and thus induce him to
+<i>spring</i> upon his prey, which will precipitate him to the
+bottom of the pit and thus effect his capture.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+They are commonly taken with the steel trap. The puma seldom leaves
+the vicinity of the carcass of an animal it has killed until it
+is all devoured. When such a carcass can be found the capture of
+the beast is easily effected. Set the trap, size No. 5, <a
+href="#page_143">page 143</a>, near the remains, and cover the
+carcass with leaves. The next visit of the animal will find him
+<i>more attached</i> to the place than ever,&mdash;so much so that
+he will be unable to "<i>tear himself away</i>."
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_164"><span class="page">Page 164</span></a>
+The skin of the puma is properly removed by first cutting up the
+belly as described under the Beaver, using great care about the
+head and face. Use the hoop stretcher, <a href="#page_275">page
+275</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE CANADIAN LYNX.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The lynx represents another of the Cat tribe, and as its name implies
+is a native of the regions north of the United States, although
+sometimes found in upper Maine and on the lower borders of the
+great lakes. It is commonly known throughout Canada as the Peshoo,
+or "Le Chat."
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Our illustration is a truthful representation of the animal. Its
+total length exceeds three feet, and its tail is a mere stub. The
+fur is thick, and the hairs are long, the general color being grey,
+sprinkled with black. The legs are generally darker than the body,
+and the ears are often edged with white. The limbs and muscles
+are very powerful, the paws are very large for the size of the
+animal, and are furnished with strong white claws, which are imbedded
+in the fur of the feet when not in use, they are shown in our
+illustration. The ears of the lynx form a distinct feature, by
+which the animal could be easily identified; they are long and
+tipped with stiff projecting hairs, giving the creature a very odd
+appearance.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The peshoo can not be said to be a very dangerous animal, unless
+it is attacked, when it becomes a most ferocious antagonist. The
+writer knew of a gentleman who was pounced upon and very nearly
+killed by one of these infuriated creatures, and there are many
+like instances on record.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The principal food of the lynx consists of the smaller quadrupeds,
+the American hare being its favorite article of diet. It is a good
+swimmer, and a most agile climber, chasing its prey among the branches
+with great stealth and dexterity. Like the wolf, fox, and many
+other flesh eating-animals, the lynx does not content itself with
+the creatures which fall by the stroke of its own talons, or the
+grip of its own teeth, but will follow the trail of the puma, in
+its nocturnal quest after prey, and thankfully partake of the feast
+which remains after its predecessor has satisfied its appetite.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+While running at full speed, the lynx presents a most ludicrous
+appearance, owing to its peculiar manner of leaping. It progresses
+in successive bounds, with its back slightly arched, and all the
+feet striking the ground nearly at the same instant. Powerful as
+the animal is, it is easily killed by a blow on the
+<a name="page_165"><span class="page">Page 165</span></a>
+back, a slight stick being a sufficient weapon wherewith to destroy
+the creature. For this reason the "Dead-fall" is particularly adapted
+for its capture, and is very successful, as the animal possesses
+very little cunning, and will enter an enclosure of any kind without
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 460px;">
+  <img src="images/fig109.jpg" width="460" height="351" alt="Figure 109">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+the slightest compunction, when a tempting bait is in view. The
+dead-fall should of course be constructed on a large scale, and
+it is a good plan to have the enclosure deep, and the bait as far
+back as will necessitate the animal being well under the suspended
+log in order to reach it. The bait may consist of a dead quadruped
+or of fresh meat of any kind.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Gun trap, <a href="#page_20">page 20</a>, and the Bow trap,
+<a href="#page_23">page 23</a>, will also be found efficient, and
+a very powerful twitch-up, constructed from a stout pole and extra
+strong wire will also serve to good purpose. The lynx is not so
+prolific as many of the feline tribe, the number of its young seldom
+exceeding two, and this only once a year. The fur of the animal is
+valuable for the purposes to which the feline skin is generally
+adapted, and commands a fair price in the market. Those who hunt
+or trap the lynx will do well to choose the winter months for the
+time of their operations, as during the cold season the animal
+possesses a thicker and warmer fur than it offers in the summer
+months.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When the steel trap is used, it should be of size No. 4, <a
+href="#page_141">page 141</a>,
+<a name="page_166"><span class="page">Page 166</span></a>
+set at the opening of a pen of stakes, the bait being placed at
+the back of the enclosure in such a position, as that the animal
+will be obliged to step upon the pan of the trap in order to reach
+it. Any of the devices described under "Hints on Baiting" will
+be found successful.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The skin of the animal may be removed as directed in the case of
+the fox, being drawn off the body whole, or it may be removed after
+the manner of the beaver, and similarly stretched.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE WILD CAT.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This animal is one of the most wide-spread species of the Cat tribe,
+being found not only in America, but throughout nearly the whole
+of Europe as well as in Northern Asia. In many parts of the United
+States, where the wild cat was wont to flourish, it has become
+exterminated, owing to civilization and the destruction of forest
+lands.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Many naturalists are of the opinion that the wild cat is the original
+progenitor of our domestic cat, but there is much difference of opinion
+in regard to the subject. Although they bear great resemblance to
+each other, there are several points of distinction between the
+two; one of the most decided differences being in the comparative
+length of the tails. The tail of the wild cat is little more than
+half the length of that of the domestic cat, and much more bushy.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The color of the wild animal is much more uniform than in the great
+raft of "domestic" mongrel specimens which make night hideous with
+their discordant yowls, although we sometimes see a high bred individual
+which, if his tail was cut off at half its length, might easily
+pass as an example of the wild variety.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The ground tint of the fur in the wild cat is yellowish grey,
+diversified with dark streaks over the body and limbs, much after
+the appearance of the so-called "tiger cat." A row of dark streaks
+and spots extends along the spine, and the tail is thick, short
+and bushy, tipped with black and encircled with a number of rings
+of a dark hue. In some individuals the markings are less distinct,
+and they are sometimes altogether wanting, but in the typical wild
+cat they are quite prominent. The fur is rather long and thick,
+particularly so during the winter season, and always in the colder
+northern regions.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The amount of havoc which these creatures often occasion is surprising,
+and their nocturnal inroads, in poultry yards and
+<a name="page_167"><span class="page">Page 167</span></a>
+sheep folds, render them most hated pests to farmers in the countries
+where these animals abound. They seem to have a special appetite for
+the <i>heads</i> of fowls, and will often decapitate a half dozen
+in a single night, leaving the bodies in otherwise good condition
+to tell the story of their midnight murders. The home of the wild
+cat is made in some cleft of rock, or in the hollow of some aged
+tree, from which the creature issues in the dark hours and starts
+upon its marauding excursions. Its family numbers from three to
+six, and the female parent is smaller than the male, the total
+length of the latter being three feet.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig110.jpg" width="486" height="336" alt="Figure 110">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Inhabiting the most lonely and inaccessible ranges of rock and
+mountain, the wild cat is seldom seen during the daytime. At night,
+like its domestic relative, he prowls far and wide, walking with
+the same stealthy step and hunting his game in the same tiger-like
+manner. He is by no means a difficult animal to trap, being easily
+deceived and taking a bait without any hesitation. The wild cat
+haunts the shores of lakes and rivers, and it is here that the
+traps may be set for them. Having caught and killed one of the
+colony, the rest of them can be easily taken if the body of the
+dead victim be left near their hunting ground and surrounded with
+the traps carefully set and concealed beneath leaves moss or the
+like. Every wild cat
+<a name="page_168"><span class="page">Page 168</span></a>
+that is in the neighborhood will be certain to visit the body,
+and if the traps are rightly arranged many will be caught. The
+trap No. 3, <a href="#page_141">page 141</a> is generally used.
+We would caution the young trapper in his approach to an entrapped
+wild cat, as the strength and ferocity of this animal under such
+circumstances, or when otherwise "hard pressed," is perfectly amazing.
+When caught in a trap they spring with terrible fury at any one who
+approaches them, not waiting to be assailed, and when cornered
+or hemmed in by a hunter they will often turn upon their pursuer,
+and springing at his face will attack him with most consummate
+fury, often inflicting serious and sometimes fatal wounds. When
+hunted and attacked by dogs, the wild cat is a most desperate and
+untiring fighter, and extremely difficult to kill, for which reason
+it has been truthfully said that "if a tame cat has nine lives,
+a <i>wild cat</i> must have a dozen."
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The twitch-up, erected on a large scale, is utilized to a considerable
+extent in England in the capture of these animals; and these, together
+with steel traps and dead-falls, are about the only machines used
+for their capture. We would suggest the garrote, bow and gun trap
+also as being very effective. The bait may consist of the head
+of a fowl or a piece of rabbit or fowl flesh: or, indeed, flesh
+of almost any kind will answer, particularly of the bird kind.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In skinning the wild cat the same directions given under the head
+of the Fox may be followed, or the pelt may be ripped up the belly
+and spread on a hoop stretcher, <a href="#page_275">page 275</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BEAR.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are several species of the Bear tribe which inhabit our continent,
+the most prominent of which are the Grizzly, and the Musquaw or
+common Black Bear. There is no other animal of this country which
+is more widely and deservedly dreaded than the grizzly bear. There
+are other creatures, the puma and wild cat, for instance, which
+are dangerous when cornered or wounded, but they are not given to
+open and deliberate attack upon human beings. The grizzly, however,
+or "Ephraim," as he is commonly termed by trappers, often displays
+a most unpleasant readiness to attack and pursue a man, even in
+the face of fire arms. In many localities, however, where hunting
+has been pursued to considerable extent, these animals have learned
+from experience a wholesome fear of man, and are not so ready to
+assume the offensive, but a "<i>wounded</i>" grizzly is one of the
+<a name="page_169"><span class="page">Page 169</span></a>
+most horrible antagonists of which it is possible to conceive,
+rushing upon its victim with terrible fury, and dealing most tearing
+and heavy blows with its huge claws.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In length this formidable animal often exceeds eight feet, and its
+color varies from yellowish to brownish black, and some specimens
+are found of a dirty grey color.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The legs are usually darker than the rest of the body, and the
+face is generally of a lighter tint. The fore limbs of the animal
+are immensely powerful; and the foot of a full-grown individual
+is fully eighteen inches long, and armed with claws five inches
+in length. The grizzly inhabits the Rocky Mountain regions and
+northward, being found in considerable numbers in the western part
+of British America. Its hair is thick and coarse, except in the
+young animal, which possesses a beautiful fur.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+All other creatures seem to stand in fear of this formidable beast.
+Even the huge bison, or buffalo, of the Western Prairies sometimes
+falls a victim to the grizzly bear, and the very imprint of a bear's
+foot upon the soil is a warning which not even a hungry wolf will
+disregard.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Its food consists of whatever animal it can seize, whether human
+or otherwise. He also devours green corn, nuts, and fruits of all
+kinds. In his earlier years he is a good climber, and will ascend
+a tree with an agility which is surprisingly inconsistent with
+the unwieldy proportions of his body.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The average weight of a full-grown grizzly is over eight hundred
+pounds, and the girth around the body is about eight feet.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Black bear, or Musquaw, which we illustrate is common throughout
+nearly all the half settled-districts of North America. But as the
+fur and fat are articles of great commercial value, the hunters
+and trappers have exercised their craft with such skill and
+determination that the animals are gradually decreasing in numbers.
+The total length of the black bear is seldom more than six feet,
+and its fur is smooth and glossy in appearance. The color of the
+animal is rightly conveyed by its name, the cheeks only partaking
+of a reddish fawn color.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It possesses little of that fierceness which characterizes the
+grizzly, being naturally a very quiet and retiring creature, keeping
+itself aloof from mankind, and never venturing near his habitations
+except when excited by the pangs of fierce hunger. When pursued
+or cornered it becomes a dangerous antagonist; and its furious
+rage often results in fearful catastrophes to both man and beast.
+Nothing but a rifle ball in the right spot will
+<a name="page_170"><span class="page">Page 170</span></a>
+check the creature, when wrought up to this pitch of fury, and an
+additional wound only serves to increase its terrible ferocity.
+Bear-chasing is an extremely dangerous sport; and there are few
+bear-hunters in the land, however skilful, but what can show scars
+from the claws or teeth of some exasperated bruin.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The food of the black bear is mostly of a vegetable character,
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 455px;">
+  <img src="images/fig111.jpg" width="455" height="309" alt="Figure 111">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+animal diet not being indulged in unless pressed by hunger. At
+such times it seems to especially prefer a young pig as the most
+desirable delicacy; and even full-grown hogs, it is said, are sometimes
+lifted from their pens and carried off in his deadly embrace.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Honey is his especial delight; and he will climb trees with great
+agility in order to reach a nest of bees, there being few obstacles
+which his ready claws and teeth will not remove where that dainty
+is in view. He is also very fond of acorns, berries, and fruits
+of all kinds.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The young of the bear are produced in January or February, and
+are from one to four in number. They are very small and covered
+with grey hair, which coat they retain until they are one year of
+age. The flesh of the bear is held in high esteem among hunters,
+and when properly prepared is greatly esteemed by epicures.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The fat of the animal is much used under the title of "Bear
+<a name="page_171"><span class="page">Page 171</span></a>
+grease," and is believed to be an infallible hair rejuvenator, and
+therefore becomes a valuable article of commerce.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The bear generally hibernates during the winter, choosing some
+comfortable residence which it has prepared in the course of the
+summer, or perhaps betaking itself to the hollow of some tree.
+Sometimes, in case of early snow, the track of the bears may be
+distinguished, and if followed will probably lead to their dens,
+in which they can be secured with logs until it is desired to kill
+them.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The black bear has a habit of treading in a beaten track, which
+is easily detected by the eye of an experienced hunter or trapper,
+and turned to good account in trapping the animal.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are various modes of accomplishing this result. The bear
+Dead-fall, described on <a href="#page_17">page 17</a>, is, perhaps,
+the most commonly used, and the Pit-fall, <a href="#page_31">page
+31</a>, and "Giant Coop" trap are also excellent. The Gun trap and
+stone dead-fall, <a href="#page_20">page 20</a>, we also confidently
+recommend. When a steel trap is used it requires the largest size,
+especially made for the purpose. It should be supplied with a short
+and very strong chain firmly secured to a very heavy clog or
+grappling-iron <a href="#page_147">page 147</a>. If secured to
+a tree or other stationary object, the captured animal is likely
+to gnaw or tear his foot away, if, indeed, he does not break the
+trap altogether by the quick tightening of the chain. The clog
+should be only heavy enough to be an <i>impediment</i>, and may
+consist of a log or heavy stone. The grappling-iron, however, is
+more often used in connection with the bear trap. It is a common
+method in trapping the bear to construct a pen of upright branches,
+laying the trap at its opening, and covering it with leaves. The
+bait is then placed at the back in such a position that the animal,
+on reaching for it, will be sure to put his foot in the trap.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+An experienced trapper soon discovers natural openings between
+rocks or trees, which may be easily modified, and by the addition
+of a few logs so improved upon as to answer his purpose as well as
+a more elaborate enclosure, with much less trouble. Any arrangement
+whereby the bear will be obliged to tread upon the trap in order
+to secure the bait, is, of course, all that is required. The bait
+may be hung on the edge of a rock five feet from the ground, and
+the trap set on a smaller rock beneath it. He will thus be almost
+sure to rest his forefoot on the latter rock in order to reach
+the bait, and will thus be captured.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another way is to set the trap in a spring of water or swampy
+<a name="page_172"><span class="page">Page 172</span></a>
+spot. Lay a lump of moss over the pan, suspending the bait beyond
+the trap. The moss will offer a natural foot-rest, and the offending
+paw will be secured.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Bears possess but little cunning, and will enter any nook or corner
+without the slightest compunction when in quest of food. They are
+especially fond of sweets, and, as we have said, are strongly attracted
+by honey, being able to scent it from a great distance. On this
+account it is always used, when possible, by trappers in connection
+with other baits. These may consist of a fowl, fruit, or flesh of
+any kind, and the honey should be smeared over it. Skunk cabbage
+is said to be an excellent bait for the bear; and in all cases a
+free use of the Oil of Anise <a href="#page_152">page 152</a>,
+sprinkling it about the traps, is also advisable. Should the device
+fail, it is well to make a trail (see <a href="#page_153">page
+153</a>) in several directions from the trap, and extending for
+several rods. A piece of wood, wet with Oil of Anise, will answer
+for the purpose.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The general method of skinning the bear consists in first cutting
+from the front of the lower jaw down the belly to the vent, after
+which the hide may be easily removed. The hoop-stretcher <a
+href="#page_275">page 275</a>, will then come into good use in the
+drying and preparing of the skin for market.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE RACCOON.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Although allied to the Bear family, this animal possesses much
+in common with the fox, as regards its general disposition and
+character. It has the same slyness and cunning, the same stealthy
+tread, besides an additional mischievousness and greed. It is too
+common to need any description here, being found plentifully throughout
+nearly the whole United States. The bushy tail, with its dark rings,
+will be sufficient to identify the animal in any community. Raccoon
+hunts form the subject of many very exciting and laughable stories,
+and a "coon chase," to this day is a favorite sport all over the
+country. The raccoon, or "coon," as he is popularly styled, is
+generally hunted by moonlight. An experienced dog is usually set
+on the trail and the fugitive soon seeks refuge in a tree, when
+its destruction is almost certain. Hence the term "treed coon," as
+applied to an individual when in a dangerous predicament. Besides
+possessing many of the peculiarities of the fox, the "coon" has
+the additional accomplishment of being a most agile and expert
+climber, holding so firmly to the limb by its sharp claws as to
+defy all attempts to shake it off.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_173"><span class="page">Page 173</span></a>
+The home of the raccoon is generally in a hollow tree; the young
+are brought forth in May, and are from four to six in number.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In captivity this animal makes a very cunning and interesting pet,
+being easily tamed to follow its master, and when dainties are in
+view becomes a most adroit pickpocket. Its food is extensive in
+variety, thus making it quite an easy matter to keep the creature
+in confinement. Nuts and fruits of all kinds it eagerly devours,
+as well as bread, cake and potatoes. It manifests no hesitation
+at a meal of rabbit, rat, squirrel, or bird, and rather likes it
+for a change, and when he can partake of a dessert of honey or
+molasses his enjoyment knows no bounds. Frogs, fresh water clams,
+green corn, and a host of other delicacies come within the range
+of his diet, and he may sometimes be seen digging from the sand
+the eggs of the soft-shelled turtle, which he greedily sucks. We
+cordially recommend the coon as a pet. He becomes very docile,
+and is full of cunning ways, and if the young ones can be traced
+to their hiding-place in some hollow tree, and secured, if not
+<i>too</i> young, we could warrant our readers a great deal of
+real sport and pleasure in rearing the little animals and watching
+their ways.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In cold climates the raccoon lies dormant in the winter, only venturing
+out on occasional mild days; but in the Southern States he is active
+throughout the year, prowling about by day and by night in search
+of his food, inserting his little sharp nose into every corner,
+and feeling with his slender paws between stones for spiders and
+bugs of all kinds. He spies the innocent frog with his head just
+out of the water, and pouncing upon him, he despatches him without
+a moment's warning. There seems to be no limits to his rapacity, for
+he is always eating and always hungry. The print of the raccoon's
+paw in the mud or snow is easily recognized, much resembling the
+impression made by the foot of a babe.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The best season for trapping the coon is late in the fall, winter,
+and early spring, or from and between the months of October and
+April. During this time the pelts are in excellent condition. Early
+in the spring when the snow is disappearing, the coons come out
+of their hiding places to start on their foraging tours; and at
+this time are particularly susceptible to a tempting bait, and
+they may be successfully trapped in the following manner:&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Take a steel trap and set it on the edge of some pool, or stream
+where the coons are known to frequent: let it be an inch
+<a name="page_174"><span class="page">Page 174</span></a>
+or so under the water, and carefully chained to a clog. The bait
+may consist of a fish, frog, or head of a fowl, scented with Oil
+of Anise, and suspended over the traps about two feet higher, by
+the aid of a sapling secured in the ground. (See title page at
+the head of this section.) The object of this is to induce the
+animal to jump for it, when he will land with his foot in the trap.
+Another method is to construct a V shaped pen set the trap near
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 480px;">
+  <img src="images/fig112.jpg" width="480" height="369" alt="Figure 112">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+the entrance, and, fastening the bait in the angle, cover the trap
+loosely with leaves, and scent the bait as before with the anise.
+The trap should be at such a distance from the bait that the animal,
+in order to reach it, will be obliged to tread upon the pan, which
+he will be sure to do, his greed overcoming his discretion. Any
+arrangement whereby the animal will be obliged to tread upon the
+trap in order to reach the bait will be successful.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The beaten track of the coons may often be discovered in soft ground,
+and a trap carefully concealed therein will soon secure its victim.
+Another method is to set the trap near the coon tracks, spreading a
+few drops of anise on the pan and covering the whole with leaves.
+The coon, attracted by the scent, will
+<a name="page_175"><span class="page">Page 175</span></a>
+feel around in the leaves for the bait, and thus "put his foot in
+it."
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the South they construct a coon trap from a hollow log, either
+having the ends supplied with lids, which fall just like the Rat
+trap <a href="#page_100">page 100</a> as the animal passes through,
+or else constructed with nooses, similar to the Box-snare, <a
+href="#page_56">page 56</a>. Box traps of a style similar to that
+described on <a href="#page_103">page 103</a> are also excellent, and
+a strong twitch-up, of any of the various kinds we have described,
+will be found to work admirably.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Many of the suggestions in trapping the mink, <a href="#page_190">page
+190</a>, will be found equally, serviceable in regard to the coon.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The skin of this animal should be removed as recommended for the
+fox, and similarly stretched. It may also be skinned by first ripping
+up the belly, and spread on a hoop stretcher. <a href="#page_275">page
+275</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BADGER.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The American Badger is mostly confined to the Northwestern parts
+of the United States, and it is a curious little animal. In size
+its body is slightly smaller than the fox. Its general color is
+grey, approaching to black on the head and legs. There is a white
+streak extending from the tip of the animal's long nose over the
+top of the head and fading off near the shoulders. The cheeks are
+also white, and a broad and definitely marked black line extends
+from the snout back around the eyes ending at the neck. The grey
+of this animal is produced from the mixture of the varied tints
+of its fur, each hair presenting a succession of shades. At the
+root it is of a deep grey; this fades into a tawny yellow, and
+is followed by a black, the hair being finally tipped with white.
+The fur is much used in the manufacture of fine paint brushes, a
+good "Badger blender" being a most useful accessory in the painter's
+art. The badger is slow and clumsy in its actions, except when
+engaged in digging, his capacities in this direction being so great
+as to enable him to sink himself into the ground with marvellous
+rapidity. The nest of the animal is made in the burrow, and the
+young are three or four in number. His diet is as variable and
+extensive as that of the coon, and consists of anything in any
+way eatable. Snails, worms, rats, mice and moles, seem to have
+a particular attraction for him; and he seems to take especial
+delight in unearthing the stores of the wild bees, devouring honey,
+wax and grubs together, and
+<a name="page_176"><span class="page">Page 176</span></a>
+caring as little for the stings of the angry bees as he would of
+the bills of so many mosquitoes, the thick coating of fur forming
+a perfect protection against his winged antagonists. The badger
+is very susceptible to human influence, and can be effectually
+tamed with but little trouble. Although his general appearance
+would not indicate it, he is a sly and cunning animal, and not
+easily captured in a trap of any kind. He has been known to set
+at defiance all the traps that were set for him, and to devour
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 456px;">
+  <img src="images/fig113.jpg" width="456" height="294" alt="Figure 113">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+the baits without suffering for his audacity. He will sometimes
+overturn a trap and spring it from the under side, before attempting
+to remove the bait. Although not quite as crafty as the fox, it is
+necessary to use much of the same caution in trapping the badger,
+as a bare trap seldom wins more than a look of contempt from the
+wary animal.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The usual mode of catching the creature is to set the trap size
+No. 3 at the mouth of its burrow, carefully covering it with loose
+earth and securing it by a chain to a stake. Any of the methods
+used in trapping the fox will also be found to work admirably.
+The dead-fall or garrote will also do good service. Bait with a
+rat, mouse, or with whatever else the animal is especially fond,
+and scent with Oil of Anise or Musk. In early spring, while the
+ground is still hard, badgers are easily captured by flooding their
+burrows. After being satisfied that the animal is in its hole,
+proceed to pour in pailful after pailful of water at the entrance.
+He will not long be able
+<a name="page_177"><span class="page">Page 177</span></a>
+to stand this sort of thing, and he may be secured as he makes his
+exit at the opening of the burrow.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The skin should be removed whole, as in the case of the fox, or
+as described for the beaver, and stretched as therein indicated.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BEAVER.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Beaver of North America has now a world-wide reputation for
+its wonderful instinct and sagacity. The general appearance of
+this animal is that of a very large muskrat with a broad flattened
+tail, and the habits of both these animals are in many respects
+alike. The beaver is an amphibious creature and social in its habits
+of living, large numbers congregating together and forming little
+villages, and erecting their dome-like huts like little Esquimaux.
+The muskrat has this same propensity, but the habitation of the
+beaver is on a much more extensive scale. These huts or "Beaver
+lodges," are generally made in rivers and brooks; although sometimes
+in lakes or large ponds. They are chiefly composed of branches,
+moss, grass and mud, and are large enough to accommodate a family
+of five or six. The form of the "lodges" is dome-like, and it varies
+considerably in size. The foundation is made on the bottom of the
+river, and the hut is built up like a mound, often twenty feet
+in diameter and projecting several feet above the surface of the
+water. The walls of this structure are often five or six feet thick,
+and the roofs are all finished off with a thick layer of mud laid on
+with marvellous smoothness. These huts form the winter habitations
+of the beavers, and as this compost of mud, grass and branches
+becomes congealed into a solid mass by the severe frosts of our
+northern winter, it can easily be seen that they afford a safe
+shelter against any intruder and particularly the wolverine, which
+is a most deadly enemy to the beaver. So hard does this frozen mass
+become as to defy even the edges of iron tools, and the breaking
+open of the "Beaver houses" is at no time an easy task. Beavers
+work almost entirely in the dark; and a pond which is calm and
+placid in the day time will be found in the night to be full of
+life and motion, and the squealing and splashing in the water will
+bear evidence of their industry. Lest the beavers should not have
+a sufficient depth of water at all seasons, they are in the habit
+of constructing veritable dams to ensure that result. These dams
+display a wonderful amount of reason and skill, and, together with
+the huts, have won for the beaver a reputation
+<a name="page_178"><span class="page">Page 178</span></a>
+for engineering skill which the creature truly deserves. In constructing
+these ingenious dams the beavers, by the aid of their powerful teeth,
+gnaw down trees sometimes of large size, and after cutting them into
+smaller pieces float them on the water to the spot selected for
+the embankment. In swift streams this embankment is built so as
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 438px;">
+  <img src="images/fig114.jpg" width="438" height="407" alt="Figure 114">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+to arch against the current, thus securing additional strength,
+and evincing an instinct on the part of the animal which amounts
+almost to reason. In cutting down the trees the beaver gnaws a
+circular cut around the trunk, cutting deepest on the side toward
+the water, thus causing the trunk to fall into the stream. The
+first step in constructing the embankment is to lay the logs down
+cautiously in the required line of the dam, afterwards weighting
+them with heavy stones, which the beavers by their united efforts
+roll upon them. The foundation of the embankment is often ten feet
+in width, and is built up by continued heaping of branches, stones
+and mud, until it forms a barrier of immense strength and resisting
+power. In many cases, through
+<a name="page_179"><span class="page">Page 179</span></a>
+a lapse of years, and through a consequent accumulation of floating
+leaves, twigs, and seeds of plants, these embankments become thickly
+covered with vegetation, and, in many cases in the Hudson Bay country,
+have even been known to nurture trees of considerable dimensions. The
+broad flat tail of the animal serves a most excellent purpose, in
+carrying the mud to the dams or huts, and in matting and smoothing
+it into a solidity.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The entrances to the various huts are all beneath the water, and
+they all open into one common ditch, which is purposely dug in
+the bed of the river, and is too deep to be entirely frozen. In
+the summer time the huts are vacated, and the beavers make their
+abode in burrows on the banks of the stream, which serve as a secure
+retreat at all times, and particularly in winter when their houses
+are molested. The Indians of the Northwest are aware of this fact,
+and turn it to good account in the capture of the animals.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When the beaver's village is in a small creek, or brook, it is
+first necessary to stake the water across both above and below
+the huts. The next thing is to ascertain the exact spots of the
+burrows in the banks, and when we consider the river is covered
+with ice, this seems a rather difficult problem. But this is where
+the Indian shows his skill. He starts upon the ice, provided with
+an ice chisel secured to a long, stout handle. With this he strikes
+upon the ice, following the edge of the stream. The sound of the
+blow determines to his practiced ear the direct spot opposite the
+opening of the burrows, and at this point a hole a foot in diameter
+is made through the ice. Following the edge of the bank he continues
+his search, and in like manner cuts the holes through the ice until
+all the retreats are discovered. While the expert Indians are thus
+engaged, the "squaws" are occupied in the more laborious work of
+breaking open the houses, and the beavers, alarmed at the invasion of
+their sanctums, make for the banks, and the ready huntsmen stationed
+at the various holes, watch for their victims beneath the openings,
+until a violent motion or discoloration of the water betrays their
+passage beneath. The entrance to the holes in the bank are then
+instantly closed with stakes and the beaver is made prisoner in
+his burrow. When the depth of the burrow will admit, the arm of
+the hunter is introduced, and the animal pulled out, but otherwise
+a long hook lashed to a pole is employed for this purpose. Scores
+of beavers are sometimes taken in this way in a few hours. Spearing
+is also often successfully resorted to, and when the ice is thin
+and transparent the beavers may be
+<a name="page_180"><span class="page">Page 180</span></a>
+clearly observed as they come to the surface, beneath the ice, for
+air.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The general color of the animal is reddish brown, this tint being
+imparted principally by the long hairs of the fur. There is an
+inner and softer down of a grey color, which lies next the skin,
+and which is the valuable growth of the fur. The total length of
+the animal is about three feet and a half, the flat, paddle-shaped,
+scale-covered tail being about a foot in length.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The young are brought forth in April or May, from three to seven
+at a litter, and take to the water when a month old. The first
+four years in the beaver's life is spent under the "maternal roof,"
+after which period they shift for themselves. To trap the beaver
+successfully, requires the utmost caution, as the senses of the
+animal are so keen, and he is so sagacious withal, that he will detect
+the recent presence of the trapper from the slightest evidences.
+The traps should be washed clean and soaked in ley, before using,
+and thereafter handled with gloves, as a mere touch of the finger
+will leave a scent which the acute sense of the beaver will easily
+perceive. All footprints should be carefully obliterated by throwing
+water upon them, and some trappers say that the mere act of spitting
+on the ground in the neighborhood of the traps has been known to
+thwart success.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Almost the only bait used in trapping the beaver is the preparation
+called "barkstone" by the trappers, or "castoreum" in commerce. This
+substance is fully described on <a href="#page_150">page 150</a>
+under the head of "Scent Baits."
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+To the barkstone the trapper is mostly indebted for his success,
+and the effect of its odor on the beaver is something surprising.
+Our best trappers inform us that these animals will scent this
+odor for a great distance, and will fairly "squeal with delight,"
+not being easy until the savory bait is discovered, which almost
+invariably results in capture.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Taking advantage of this curious propensity, the trapper always
+carries a supply of castoreum in a closed vessel.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are various ways of trapping the beaver, of which we shall
+present the best. An examination of the river bank will easily
+disclose the feeding place of the beavers, as evinced by the absence
+of the bark on the branches and trunks of trees. At this spot,
+in about four inches of water, set your trap, which should be a
+Newhouse No. 4. Weight the end of the chain with a stone as large
+as your head, and, if possible, rest it on the edge of some rock
+projecting into deep water, having a smaller rope or chain leading
+from the stone to the shore. A
+<a name="page_181"><span class="page">Page 181</span></a>
+small twig, the size of your little finger, should then be stripped
+of its bark, and after chewing or mashing one end, it should be
+dipped in the castoreum. Insert this stick in the mud, between
+the jaws of the trap, letting it project about six inches above
+the water. The beaver is soon attracted by the odor of the bait,
+and in reaching for it, his foot is caught in the trap. In his
+fright he will immediately jump for deep water, thus dislodging
+the stone, which will sink him to the bottom, and thus drown him.
+The smaller chain or rope will serve as a guide to the trap, and
+the victim may be drawn to the surface. Another plan is to set
+the trap in about a foot of water, chaining it fast to a stout
+pole securely driven in the mud further out in the stream, and
+near deep water. Bait as before. The trap being thus fastened will
+prevent the efforts of the animal to drag it ashore, where he would
+be certain to amputate his leg and walk off. There is another method,
+which is said to work excellently. The chain is secured to a very
+heavy stone, and sunk in deep water, and the trap set and baited
+near shore, in about a foot of water. This accomplishes the same
+purpose as the pole first described, and is even surer, as the animal
+will sometimes use his teeth in severing the wood, and thereby make
+his escape. In the case of the stone a duplicate rope or chain
+will be required to lift it in case of capture.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trap may be set at the entrance to the holes in the banks,
+two or three inches under water, implanting the stick with the
+castoreum bait directly over the pan, a few inches above the water.
+If the water should be deep near this spot, it is an excellent plan
+to weight the end of the chain with a large stone with a "leader"
+from it also, as already described. Insert two or three sticks in
+the bank beneath the water, and rest the stone upon them.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When the beaver is caught he will turn a somersault into deep water,
+at the same time dislodging the stone, which will sink him. No sooner
+is a break ascertained in the dam than all the beavers unite in
+fixing it, and this peculiarity of habit may be turned to account in
+trapping them. Make a slight break in the dam, five inches across,
+beneath the water. On the under side of the break, and of course,
+on the inside of the dam, the trap should be set. The beavers will
+soon discover the leak and the capture of at least <i>one</i> is
+certain. The trap may be also set where the beavers are wont to
+crawl on shore, being placed several inches below the water in such
+a position that they will step on it when in the act of ascending
+the banks. Where the weighted stone is not used, the sliding pole
+<a href="#page_145">page 145</a>
+<a name="page_182"><span class="page">Page 182</span></a>
+should always be employed, as it is necessary to drown the animal,
+to prevent amputation and escape.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The food of the beaver consists chiefly of the bark of various
+trees, together with aquatic plants. The fur is valuable only in
+the late fall, winter, and early spring.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In skinning the beaver, a slit is made from the under jaw to the
+vent, after which it is easily removed. It should be tacked to a flat
+board, fur side in, or stretched by means of a hoop, as described
+on <a href="#page_275">page 275</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE MUSKRAT.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The muskrat, or musquash, is very much like a beaver on a small
+scale, and is so well-known throughout the United States that a
+detailed description or illustration will hardly be necessary.
+Reduce the size of the beaver to one foot in length, and add a
+long flattened tail, instead of the spatula-shaped appendage of
+this animal, and we will have a pretty good specimen of a muskrat.
+The body has that same thick-set appearance, and the gnawing teeth
+are very large and powerful. Like the beaver, the muskrat builds
+its dome-like huts in ponds or swamps, which it frequents; and
+although not as large as those of the beaver they are constructed
+in the same manner and of the same materials. Muskrats are mostly
+nocturnal in their habits; they are tireless swimmers, and in the
+winter travel great distances beneath the ice; all of which
+peculiarities are like the beaver. Their food is quite variable,
+consisting of grass and roots, oats, corn and other grain, apples
+and nuts, and even tomatoes, turnips, carrots, mussels and clams,
+whenever these can be found.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The muskrat is a native of all of the Eastern, Western, and Middle
+States and also the Southern States, with the exception of Georgia,
+Alabama and Florida. They are also found in Canada and the Arctic
+regions, and in the North-west. They are hunted and captured as
+a means of support to the native tribes of Indians who sell or
+trade the furs to Eastern dealers. The fur somewhat resembles that
+of the mink in texture, although not as fine, and the color varies
+from dark brown above to grey beneath. It is in its best condition
+during the winter, especially in March. The animal possesses a
+musky smell, from which it takes its name. It is said by many that
+the flesh of the animal, when carefully prepared, becomes quite
+palatable food.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Their houses are so nearly like those of the beaver that a
+<a name="page_183"><span class="page">Page 183</span></a>
+second description is scarcely necessary. They are often five or
+six feet in height, and the entrances are all under water. Dozens
+of these huts may often be seen in ponds and marshes, and sometimes
+they exist in such numbers as to give the appearance of a veritable
+Esquimaux village. These houses are used only in the winter season.
+In general the muskrat lives in burrows, which it excavates in the
+banks of ponds or streams, bringing forth its young, from three
+to nine in number, in the nest, which it forms at the end of the
+tunnel. They are very prolific, producing three litters a year. Like
+the beaver, otter and mink, the muskrat can travel long distances
+under the ice with only one supply of fresh air, and its method
+is certainly very interesting. Before plunging beneath the ice
+the animal fills its lungs with air, and when under the water it
+swims until it can no longer hold its breath. It then rises up
+beneath the ice, empties its lungs, the air remaining in bubbles
+beneath the ice. In a short time this air absorbs sufficient oxygen
+from the water and ice as to be life-sustaining, when the animal
+again inhales it and proceeds on its journey. It is by this means
+that the beaver, muskrat and mink are enabled to travel such great
+distances beneath unbroken ice, and it is certainly a very novel
+and interesting method. Where the ice is thin and transparent these
+animals are sometimes captured through the means of this habit.
+A heavy stroke on the frozen hut will drive its occupants to the
+water, and their course may easily be followed through the ice.
+If one of them is tracked, he will presently be seen to stop at
+the surface of the water for fresh oxygen, as already described.
+The bubbles will soon appear, and if the hunter immediately strikes
+with an axe or heavy stick directly on the spot, the submerged
+animal will be literally driven away from its breath, and will
+of course drown in a very few minutes. A short search will soon
+reveal the dead creature, after which he may be taken out through
+a hole cut in the ice. Otter and mink are sometimes taken in the
+same way. In many localities great numbers of muskrats are also
+captured by spearing, either through the ice or through the walls
+of their houses. In the latter case, two are often taken at once.
+This method is quite uncertain and unreliable, as the walls of
+the hut are often so firmly frozen as to defy the thrust of the
+hardest steel, and a fruitless attempt will drive the inmates from
+their house at once. The spear generally used consists of a single
+shaft of steel about eighteen inches in length and half an inch
+in diameter, barbed at the point, and is feruled to a
+<a name="page_184"><span class="page">Page 184</span></a>
+solid handle five feet long. In spearing through the hut the south
+side is generally selected, as being more exposed to the heat of
+the sun. Great caution is necessary, as the slightest noise will
+drive out the inmates. The spear should be thrust in a slanting
+direction, a few inches above the surface of the ice. Where many
+houses exist it is well to destroy all but one. Into this the whole
+tribe will centre, and by successive spearing they may all be captured.
+When the spear has been thrust into the house, it must be thus
+left until a hole is cut with a hatchet, through which to remove
+the game. Spearing through the ice is a better method, but for
+general service there is no means of capture more desirable than
+by trapping. The steel trap No. 1 or 2 is the size particularly
+adapted for the muskrat, and may be set in various ways. The most
+common method is to set the trap under two inches of water on the
+projecting logs or stones on the border of the streams where the
+"signs" of the animal indicate its recent presence. The trap should
+of course be secured by a chain, ringed to a sliding pole, <a
+href="#page_145">page 145</a>, which will lead the animal into deep
+water when captured, and thus effect its speedy death by drowning.
+In this case bait is not necessary. If their feeding grounds can
+be discovered, or if their tracks indicate any particular spot
+where they crawl ashore at the water's edge, at this point a trap
+may be set with good success. In this instance it is well also to
+set it under water, baiting with a piece of turnip, parsnip, apple,
+or the like, suspended a few inches above the pan of the trap. Late
+in the fall, when collecting their building material, they often
+form large beds of dried grasses and sticks, and a trap set in
+these beds and covered with some loose substance, such as grass,
+chaff, or the like, will often secure the animal. The trap, in this
+case should be attached to a spring-pole, <a href="#page_145">page
+145</a> as the muskrat is a wonderful adept at self-amputation,
+when its escape depends upon it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trap is sometimes set in the interior of the house, and may
+be accomplished by first breaking an opening in the wall, near
+the ice, the trap being inserted and set, afterwards covering it
+with the loose grass and moss, which is generally abundant in the
+interior of these huts. When this is done, the chain should be
+secured to a stick on the outside, and the hole repaired. No spring
+or sliding-pole is necessary in this method, as the animal when
+caught will immediately run for the water, and the weight of the
+trap will sink and drown its prisoner.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Scent baits are sometimes used in trapping the muskrat, the
+<a name="page_185"><span class="page">Page 185</span></a>
+musk taken from the female animal being particularly valued. The
+Oils of Rhodium and Amber, <a href="#page_151">page 151</a> are also
+successfully employed by many trappers; a few drops of either in the
+neighborhood of the trap, or directly upon it, being sufficient.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Although steel traps are most generally used, there are several
+other devices which are equally if not even <i>more</i> desirable.
+Chief among these is the barrel trap, commonly and successfully
+employed in many parts of New England, where these animals often
+exist in such numbers as to render their destruction a matter of
+necessity.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The above trap consists merely of an old barrel, sunk to its upper
+edge in the river bank, and about half filled with water. On the
+surface of the water a few light pieces of wood are floated, over
+which the bait, consisting of carrot, sweet apple, or turnip, is
+placed. A trail is then made by dragging a piece of scented meat
+from the barrel in various directions, and a few pieces of the
+bait are also strewn along these trails. The muskrats will thus
+be led to the barrel, and will be certain to jump in after the
+tempting morsels, and their escape is impossible. No less than
+a dozen muskrats have been thus caught in a single barrer in one
+night, and a few of these traps have been known almost to exterminate
+the musquashes in localities where they had previously existed in
+such numbers as to become a pestilence to the neighborhood.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A barrel trap constructed on the principle described on <a
+href="#page_131">page 131</a> is also equally effective, although
+rather more complicated in construction. The Twitch-up is often used,
+and possesses the advantage of a trap and spring-pole combined. Box
+traps, <a href="#page_103">page 103</a>, are also to be recommended.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The skin of the muskrat may be removed in the same manner as hereinafter
+described for the otter, with the exception of the tail. This is
+considered the best method. It may also be taken off flat by ripping
+from the under jaw to the vent, and peeling around the eyes and
+mouth, letting the skin of the legs come off whole, without cutting.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another common method consists in cutting off the feet, and then
+ripping with a knife from the front of the lower jaw down the neck and
+belly to a point a little beyond the forelegs. The lips, eyes, and ears
+are then carefully skinned, and the hide is stripped backwards from the
+body. In the latter method the bow-stretcher, <a href="#page_274">page
+274</a>, is used.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_186"><span class="page">Page 186</span></a>
+THE OTTER.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The fur of this animal is of such exquisite softness and beauty
+as to be in great demand for commercial purposes, bringing a very
+high price in the fur market.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The otter cannot be said to be a common animal, although it is
+found throughout the United States and Canada, being rather more
+plentiful in the cold northern localities than in the southern
+latitudes. It is an amphibious animal, and can remain for a long
+time beneath the water. In size it is larger than a cat, and it
+possesses a tapering tail some eighteen inches in length. Its fur
+is of a rich brown color, and the hair is of two kinds, the one a
+close, fine, and exquisitely soft down, which lies next the skin,
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 484px;">
+  <img src="images/fig115.jpg" width="484" height="362" alt="Figure 115">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+and which serves to protect the animal from the extremes of heat and
+cold, and the other composed of long shining coarser hairs, which
+permit the animal to glide easily through the water. In producing
+the beautiful otter furs of fashion these long hairs are plucked
+out, leaving only the softer down next the hide. The food of the
+otter mostly consists of fish, for the pursuit of which he has
+been admirably endowed by nature. His body is lithe and supple,
+and his feet are furnished with a broad web, which connects the
+toes, and is of infinite service
+<a name="page_187"><span class="page">Page 187</span></a>
+in propelling the animal through the water when in search of his
+finny prey. His long, broad and flat tail serves as a most effectual
+rudder, and the joints of his powerful legs are so flexible as to
+permit of their being turned in almost any direction.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The habitation of the otter is made in the banks of the river which
+it frequents, or sometimes in a hollow log or crevice beneath rocks.
+The animal generally prefers to adopt and occupy a natural hollow
+or deserted excavation, rather than to dig a burrow for itself.
+The nest is composed of dry rushes, grasses and sticks, and the
+young, three or four in number, are produced in early spring.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The <i>track</i> which the otter makes in the mud or snow is easily
+distinguished from that of any other animal, on account of the
+"seal" or impression which is made by a certain ball on the sole of
+the foot. Otter hunting is a favorite sport in England, and indeed
+in the northern parts of our own country. Hounds are used to pursue
+the animal, and on account of the powerfully scented secretion with
+which the creature is furnished by nature, its track is readily
+followed. When attacked, the otter is a fierce and terrible fighter,
+biting and snapping with most deadly energy and never yielding as
+long as life remains in the body. The bite of an angry otter is
+extremely severe, and for this reason we would caution the amateur
+trapper on handling the animal should one be taken alive.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Although so fierce and savage when attacked, the otter is easily
+tamed when taken young, and can be taught to catch fish for the
+service of its master, rather than for the gratification of its
+own palate.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the winter when the snow is on the ground, the otter navigates
+by sliding, and when on the ice he may often be seen to run a few
+steps and then throw himself on his belly and slide the distance
+of several feet. They are very fond of playing in the snow, and
+make most glorious use of any steep snow-covered bank, sloping
+toward the river. Ascending to the top of such an incline they
+throw themselves on the slippery surface and thus slide swiftly
+into the water. This pastime is often continued for hours, and
+is taken advantage of in trapping the playful creatures. A short
+search will reveal the place where they crawl from the water on
+to the bank, and at this spot, which will generally be shallow,
+a steel trap should be set on the bed of the river, about four
+inches under water. The trap should be secured by a stout chain,
+the latter being ringed to a sliding pole, <a href="#page_145">page
+145</a>, which will lead the animal when caught into deep
+<a name="page_188"><span class="page">Page 188</span></a>
+water. If deep water is not near at hand, the spring pole, <a
+href="#page_144">page 144</a>, may be used, the object of either
+being to prevent the animal from gnawing off its leg and thus making
+its escape.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trap may also be placed at the top or the slide, two or three
+feet back of the slope, a place being hollowed out to receive it
+and the whole covered with snow. To make success more certain a
+log may be laid on each side of the trap, thus forming an avenue
+in which the animal will be sure to run before throwing itself on
+the slope. Care should be taken to handle nothing with the bare
+hands, as the otter is very keen scented and shy. Anoint the trap with
+a few drops of fish oil or otter musk, see <a href="#page_151">page
+151</a>. If none of these are handy, ordinary musk will answer very
+well.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trap may also be set and weighted with a heavy stone and chain,
+as described for trapping the beaver. Another method still is to
+find some log in the stream having one end projecting above water.
+Sprinkle some musk on this projecting end and set the trap on the
+log in three or four inches of water, securing it firmly by a chain,
+also beneath the water.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A rock which projects over the stream may also be utilized in the
+same way as seen in the page title at the opening of this section.
+Smear the musk on the edge which juts into the water, and secure
+the trap by the chain as before. When the animal is caught he will
+fall or jump into the water, and the weight of the trap and chain
+will sink him. In every case it is necessary to obliterate every
+sign of human presence by throwing water over every foot print, and
+over everything with which the naked hands have come in contact.
+Where the traps are thus set in the water it should be done while
+wading or in a boat. In the winter when the ponds and rivers are
+frozen over the otters make holes through the ice at which they
+come up to devour their prey. Where the water is a foot deep beneath
+any of these holes the trap may be set in the bottom, the chain
+being secured to a heavy stone. When the otter endeavors to emerge
+from the hole he will press his foot on the trap and will thus
+be caught. If the water is deep beneath the hole the trap may be
+baited with a small fish attached to the pan, and then carefully
+lowered with its chain and stone to the bottom. For this purpose
+the Newhouse, No. 3, is best adapted, as the otter is in this case
+caught by the head.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The beaten track of the animal may often be discovered in the snow
+in the winter time, and a trap carefully sunk in such a furrow
+and covered so as to resemble its surroundings, will be likely
+to secure the first otter that endeavors to pass over it. A trap
+set at the mouth of the otter's burrow and carefully covered
+<a name="page_189"><span class="page">Page 189</span></a>
+is also often successful, using the sliding pole, <a
+href="#page_145">page 145</a>, to lead him into deep water.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Every trapper has his pet theories and methods of trapping all
+the different animals, and the otter has its full share. We have
+given several of the <i>best</i> methods; and anyone of them will
+secure the desired result of capture, and all of them have stood
+the test of time and experience.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The skin of the otter should be removed whole, and the operation
+may be performed in the following manner: Slit down the hind legs
+to the vent; cut the skin loose around the vent, and slit up the
+entire length of the tail, freeing it from the bone. With the aid
+of the knife the skin should now be peeled off, drawing it backward
+and carefully cutting around the mouth and eyes before taking it
+from the head.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With the fur thus inside, the skin is ready for the stretcher as
+described on <a href="#page_273">page 273</a>, and the tail should
+be spread out and tacked around the edges.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE MINK.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This animal, as will be seen by our illustration, has a long, slender
+body, something like the weasel, to which scientific family it
+belongs. It inhabits the greater part of North America, and is also
+found abundantly in Northern Europe. The color of its fur varies
+considerably in different individuals, the general tint being a rich,
+dark brown. The chin and throat are light colored, sometimes white,
+and this spot varies considerably in size in different individuals,
+sometimes extending down on the throat to a considerable distance.
+The total length of the animal is from thirteen to sixteen inches,
+its size being variable.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The fur of the mink is excellent in quality, and has for many years
+been one of the "fancy furs" of fashion, a good prime skin often
+bringing from ten to twelve dollars. The introduction of the fur
+seal, however, and the universal demand for this as well as otter
+fur, has somewhat thrown the mink into comparative shade, although
+extra fine skins will still command high prices.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The mink is an aquatic animal, inhabiting small rivers and streams,
+and living somewhat after the manner of the otter. It has a most
+wide range of diet, and will eat almost anything which is at all
+eatable. Fishes, frogs, and muskrats are his especial delight,
+and he will occasionally succeed in pouncing upon a snipe or wild
+duck, which he will greedily devour. Crawfish,
+<a name="page_190"><span class="page">Page 190</span></a>
+snails, and water insects of all kinds also come within the
+range of his diet, and he sometimes makes a stray visit to some
+neighboring poultry yard to satisfy the craving of his abnormal
+hunger. A meal off from his own offspring often answers the same
+purpose; and a young chicken in the egg he considers the ne plus
+ultra of delicacies. The voracity of this animal is its leading
+characteristic, and is so largely in excess of its cunning or sagacity
+that it will often run headlong into a naked trap. Its sense of
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 498px;">
+  <img src="images/fig116.jpg" width="498" height="340" alt="Figure 116">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+smell is exceedingly well developed, and through this faculty it
+is often enabled to track its prey with ease and certainty. The
+mink lives in burrows, in steep banks, or between rocks or the
+roots of trees, and the young, five or six in number, are brought
+forth in May.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The chief occupation of the mink consists in perpetual search for
+something to eat, and, when so engaged, he may be seen running
+along the bank of the stream, peering into every nook and corner,
+and literally "leaving no stone unturned" in its eager search.
+Taking advantage of this habit, it becomes an easy matter to trap
+the greedy animal. Set your trap, a Newhouse No. 2, in an inch
+of water near the edge of the stream, and directly in front of
+a steep bank or rock, on which you can place your bait. The bait
+may be a frog, fish, or head of a
+<a name="page_191"><span class="page">Page 191</span></a>
+bird, suspended about eighteen inches above the water, and should
+be so situated that in order to reach it, the mink will be obliged
+to tread upon the trap. The trap may also be set in the water and
+the bait suspended eighteen inches above it, by the aid of a switch
+planted in the mud near the trap. It is a good plan to scent the
+bait with an equal mixture of sweet oil and peppermint, with a
+little honey added. If there is deep water near, the sliding pole,
+<a href="#page_145">page 145</a>, should be used, and if not, the
+"spring pole" in every case, in order to prevent the captured mink
+from becoming a prey to larger animals, and also to guard against
+his escape by amputation, which he would otherwise most certainly
+accomplish.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trap may be set on the land, near the water's edge, baiting
+as just described, and lightly covered with leaves or dirt. Any
+arrangement of the trap whereby the animal is obliged to tread
+upon it in order to secure the bait, will be found effectual.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trap may be set at the foot of a tree, and the bait fastened
+to the trunk, eighteen inches above it. A pen, such as is described
+on <a href="#page_144">page 144</a>, may be constructed, and the
+trap and bait arranged as there directed. Minks have their regular
+beaten paths, and often visit certain hollow logs in their runways.
+In these logs they leave unmistakable signs of their presence,
+and a trap set in such a place is sure of success.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Some trappers set a number of traps along the stream at intervals of
+several rods, connecting them by a trail, see <a href="#page_153">page
+153</a>, the mink being thus led directly and almost certainly to
+his destruction. This trail is made by smearing a piece of wood
+with the "medicine" described at <a href="#page_153">page 153</a>,
+and dragging it on the line of the traps. Any mink which crosses
+this trail will follow it to the first trap, when he will, in all
+probability, be captured. A dead muskrat, crow, fish, or a piece
+of fresh meat dragged along the line answers the same purpose.
+The beaten tracks of the mink may often be discovered, and a trap
+set in such a track and covered with leaves, dirt or the like,
+will often be successful.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Minks may also be easily caught in the dead-fall. Garrote trap
+or a twitch-up, baiting with fish, muskrat, flesh, or the head
+of a bird, of which the animal is especially fond. A liberal use
+of the "medicine" is also desirable.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The fur of the mink is in its best condition in the late autumn,
+winter, and early spring, and the animal should be skinned as described
+for the fox.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_192"><span class="page">Page 192</span></a>
+THE PINE MARTEN.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This animal belongs to the tribe of "weasels," and is closely allied
+to the celebrated sable, which it greatly resembles. The pine marten
+is so called because it inhabits the northern climates where pine
+forests abound, and spends much of its life in the trees in search
+of its prey. Its general appearance is truly represented in our
+illustration, its fur being of a rich brown color, with a lighter
+or white patch on the throat. Its total length, including the tail,
+is about twenty-eight or thirty inches, of which the tail represents
+ten inches. It is mostly confined to the forests in the far north,
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 489px;">
+  <img src="images/fig117.jpg" width="489" height="299" alt="Figure 117">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+and is comparatively rare further south than the latitude of Maine
+and the lakes. The fur of the pine marten is of considerable value,
+particularly if the animal be killed in the winter. A really fine
+skin is but little inferior to the celebrated sable, and is hardly
+distinguishable from it. The hair is long and glossy, and the under
+fur is beautifully soft and very thick. The dark colored skins are
+the most valuable. Although so nearly like the sable, the same
+comparison does not exist in regard to their proportionate market
+values, the marten fur bringing a much lower price.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The marten is a shy and wary animal, withdrawing itself as far
+as possible from the sight of man, and building its habitation in
+the tops of trees, often seizing on the ready nest of some squirrel
+or bird, and adapting it to its purposes.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_193"><span class="page">Page 193</span></a>
+It is a night prowler, and in the dark hours it traverses the trunks
+and branches of the trees in search of its prey. It moves with
+wonderful stealth and activity, and is enabled by its rapid and
+silent approach to steal unnoticed on many an unfortunate bird
+or squirrel, seizing it in its deadly grip before the startled
+creature can think to escape. Coming across a bird's nest, it makes
+sad havoc with the eggs or young, often adding the parent bird
+to his list of victims. Rabbits, partridges, and mice also fall
+into the marten's "bill of fare," and the list is often further
+increased by a visit to a poultry yard, when the animal murders
+and eats all it can and kills the rest for sport. In pouncing upon
+its prey, the marten invariably seizes its victim by the throat,
+often dispatching the luckless creature with a single bite.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The martens generally are said to be very susceptible to human
+influence when taken young, and are very lively in a state of
+domestication. They are among the most graceful of animals, and
+in place of the disagreeable scent which renders many of their
+tribe offensive, this creature possesses an odor which is quite
+agreeable, and for this reason is often called the sweet marten
+in contradistinction to the foul marten or pole cat of Britain,
+which is like unto our skunk in the disgusting stench which it
+exhales.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The dead-fall and Garrote traps are very successful in trapping
+the martin. They should be set several rods apart, in the forest
+or on the banks of streams, and a trail established by dragging
+a dead or roasted crow, entrails of a bird, or fresh meat from
+one trap to another, as described in relation to the mink, <a
+href="#page_190">page 190</a>. The twitch-up may also be used,
+and possesses the additional advantage of acting as a spring pole,
+thus holding the captured victim out of reach of larger animals,
+to which it might otherwise become a prey. Any of the varieties
+described under the title of "twitch-up" will answer the purpose,
+and a little experimenting will soon prove which one will be the
+most successful for this particular animal. The bait may consist of
+a bird's or fowl's head, fish, liver, or any fresh meat or entrails.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The common box trap, <a href="#page_103">page 103</a>, or the box
+snare, <a href="#page_56">page 56</a>, may also be used to good
+purpose, but the former will need to be carefully watched lest
+the enclosed prisoner gnaw his way out and thus escape.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When the steel trap is employed, it should be of the size of Newhouse,
+No. 2-1/2, set on the ground beneath some rock,
+<a name="page_194"><span class="page">Page 194</span></a>
+and covered with leaves, rotten wood, or earth, and the bait fastened
+or suspended about eighteen inches above it, in such a position that
+the animal will be obliged to step upon the trap in order to reach
+it. An enclosure may be constructed of stones piled together, the
+trap being set and covered in the opening and the bait secured at the
+back. A staked pen, such as is described on <a href="#page_143">page
+143</a>, with the trap and bait arranged as there directed, also
+works well. Wherever or however the trap is set, the bait should be
+so placed that the animal cannot possibly climb on any neighboring
+object to reach it. The hollow of a tree trunk forms an excellent
+situation for the trap, and the same hollow may also be baited at
+the back and a dead-fall constructed across its opening. The box or
+barrel pit-fall, described on <a href="#page_127">page 127</a>, is
+said to be very successful in trapping the marten, always baiting it
+with the platform secure for a few days before setting for capture.
+The same methods directed for the capture of the mink are also useful
+in trapping the marten. The animal should be skinned as described
+for the fox.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE FISHER.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This animal is classed among the martens, and is principally to
+be found in Canada and the Northern United States, where it is
+known as the black cat, or woodshock. In our natural histories it
+is described under the name of the pekan.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In general habits, this species resembles the other martens, but its
+body inclines more to the weasel shape. The fur is quite valuable,
+and much resembles the sable. Its color is generally of a greyish
+brown, the grey tint being found chiefly on the back, neck, head
+and shoulders, the legs, tail, and back of the neck being marked
+with dark brown. Like the marten, the fisher prowls by night,
+frequenting swampy places in quest of food.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It builds its habitation in hollow trees, and in burrows, which it
+excavates in the banks of rivers or streams, and its young (generally
+twins) are produced in early spring. The trapping season for the
+fisher commences at about the middle of October, and extends to
+the middle of May, after which time the fur decreases in value.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In trapping the fisher, the same plans may be used as for the marten
+and mink, as these animals much resemble each other in general
+habits. The steel trap arranged in an artificial or
+<a name="page_195"><span class="page">Page 195</span></a>
+natural enclosure, or otherwise so set as that the animal will be
+obliged to step on it in order to reach the bait, will be successful
+and the use of composition "scent bait," described on <a
+href="#page_153">page 153</a> will be found to enhance success.
+In every case where the steel trap is used the spring pole, <a
+href="#page_144">page 144</a>, should always be employed, for the
+reasons already described.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Dead-falls, garrotes, box-traps, twitch-ups, or pit-falls, may
+all be employed to good advantage. Bait with a fish or bird, or
+fresh meat of any kind, and connect the various traps by a trail,
+as described for the mink and marten.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Remove the skin as directed for the fox, and stretch as described
+on <a href="#page_273">page 273</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE SKUNK.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This disgusting animal has won the unenviable but deserving reputation
+of being the most foul-smelling creature on the face of the globe.
+He belongs to the weasel tribe, and all these animals are noted
+for certain odors which they possess, but the skunk is pre-eminent
+in the utter noisomeness of the horrid effluvium which it exhales.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This scent proceeds from a liquid secretion which collects in a
+gland beneath the insertion of the tail, and the animal has the
+power to eject or retain it at will.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It must have been given to the creature as a means of defence,
+for there seems to be no animal that can withstand the influence
+of its fetid stench. Dogs are trained to hunt the animal, but until
+they have learned from experience the right method of attacking the
+fetid game, and have discovered the whereabouts of the animal's
+magazine of ammunition, they are of little use to the hunter, and
+are only too glad to plunge into some neighboring brook, or roll
+in some near earth, in hopes of ridding themselves of the stench
+which almost distracts them. The offensive propensities of the
+skunk are only exercised when the animal is alarmed or frightened.
+There are generally certain "premonitory symptoms" of attack which
+the creature usually exhibits, and it is well to retire from his
+"shooting range" as soon as they are observed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When the animal is ready to discharge his battery, he suddenly
+elevates his large bushy tail, over his body, and turns his back
+on his enemy. The result of the discharge fills the air for a great
+distance around, and man and beast fly from the neighborhood of
+the indescribable and fetid effluvium, which fairly makes one's
+nostrils <i>ache</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_196"><span class="page">Page 196</span></a>
+A single drop of this disgusting secretion on the clothes is enough
+to scent the whole garment, and it is almost impossible to rid
+the tainted fabric from the odor.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is extremely acrid in quality, and if a very small quantity
+fall upon the eyes, it is very apt to produce permanent blindness.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Dogs, in their first experiences with the skunk, are frequently
+thus blinded, and there are well authenticated instances of human
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 500px;">
+  <img src="images/fig118.jpg" width="500" height="361" alt="Figure 118">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+beings who have been deprived of their sight through their close
+proximity to an infuriated skunk.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The writer, in his extreme youth, learned, through dear experience,
+the putrid qualities of this noisome quadruped. It was on one bright
+Sunday, in New England, and he was out in his Sunday clothing,
+gathering wild strawberries. He suddenly discovered a pretty little
+playful animal with bushy tail, romping in the grass near him.
+The creature was seemingly gentle, and showed no inclination to
+run away, and the pet-loving nature of the writer prompted an
+irresistible desire to capture so pretty a creature. Encouraged
+by its gentle manner, he eagerly ran towards the tempting prize,
+and grasping it by the bushy tail, which the animal had raised
+perpendicularly, as if for a
+<a name="page_197"><span class="page">Page 197</span></a>
+handle, the pretty creature was locked in the affectionate embrace
+of its youthful admirer. But alas! he soon repented his rashness,
+and the treacherous "pet" was quickly flung away leaving its victim
+in such a foul state of overwhelming astonishment as can be more
+easily imagined than described.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Every article of clothing worn on that eventful Sunday had to be
+buried, and it took weeks of Sundays before the odor could be thoroughly
+eradicated from the hair and skin of the individual who wore those
+Sunday garments. After this adventure, the youth became more cautious
+with respect to pretty little playful animals, with black and white
+fur and bushy tails.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There is hardly a farmer in the country but what has had some amusing
+or serious experience with the skunk, and almost every trapper
+has, at one time or another, served as a target for his shooting
+propensities. Natural histories are replete with anecdotes of which
+this animal is the mephitic hero, and volumes might be filled to
+the glory of his strong-smelling qualities.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Perhaps it is through the prejudice of the writer that he cannot
+enthusiastically recommend the skunk as a domestic pet; but it
+is nevertheless asserted, on good authority, that these animals,
+when reared from the young, become very interesting and playful
+in the household, and completely shut down on their objectionable
+faculties.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Our illustration gives a very good idea of the animal, and it is
+so unlike any other creature that a further description will not
+be necessary. The prevailing colors are white and black; but these
+vary much in proportion, the animal sometimes being almost totally
+white, or altogether black. The fur is long, and comparatively coarse,
+being intermixed with long, glossy hairs, and is most valuable in
+the black animal. The body of the creature is about a foot and a
+half in length, exclusive of the tail, which adds about fourteen
+inches more.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The skunk is generally nocturnal in its habits, secreting itself
+during the day in hollow trees, or crevices in rocks, or wood-piles.
+At night it ventures forth in quest of its food, which consists
+chiefly of grasshoppers, worms and other insects, wild fruit and
+such small animals in the shape of frogs, mice and birds as it can
+capture. The poultry yard often offers an irresistible temptation,
+and both fowls and eggs often serve to appease his appetite.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The skunk is common throughout the greater part of North America,
+and in many localities the numbers increase very
+<a name="page_198"><span class="page">Page 198</span></a>
+rapidly unless checked. The young are brought forth in burrows
+or holes in rocks during April or May, and are from six to nine
+in number.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+"Skunk fur" does not sound well when thought of in connection with
+a set of fashionable furs; and for this reason the pelt of this
+animal is dignified by the name of Alaska sable by all dealers in
+the article. When known by this fancy title it suddenly becomes a
+very popular addition to fashion's winter wardrobe, and is one of
+the leading furs which are exported to meet the demand of foreign
+countries. Foul as the animal is, it seldom soils its own fur with
+its offensive fluid; and when carefully skinned the fur is as saleable
+as that of any other animal.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Skunk is trapped in a variety of ways; and as the animal is
+not cunning, no great skill is required. The steel trap is most
+commonly used, as other wooden varieties, box traps or dead-falls,
+for instance, are apt to absorb and retain the stench of the animal.
+In using the steel trap the size No. 2 should be taken. It may be
+set at the entrance to their burrows or in their feeding grounds.
+It should be covered with loose earth or chaff, or some other light
+substance, and baited with small bits of meat, dead mice, or eggs
+placed around it. The enclosure illustrated on <a href="#page_143">page
+143</a> also answers well, and in all cases the spring pole, <a
+href="#page_144">page 144</a>, should be used. The dead-fall, <a
+href="#page_107">page 107</a>, is often employed, and the twitch-up,
+<a href="#page_43">page 43</a>, is a particularly effective contrivance
+for their capture, often preventing the evil consequences of the
+odor by causing instant dislocation of the neck, and this without
+injuring the fur. A stroke upon the backbone near the tail, by
+producing paralysis of the parts, also prevents the animal from
+using his offensive powers, and a dead-fall so constructed as to
+fall upon the animal at this part will accomplish the same effect.
+To manage this it is only necessary to place the bait far back in
+the enclosure, so that the skunk on reaching it will bring the
+rear portion of his body beneath the suspended log. The scent of
+the skunk is as we have said, almost ineradicable, but we would
+recommend chloride of lime as the most effectual antidote.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is also said by some trappers that the odor may be dissipated
+by packing the garment in fresh hemlock boughs, letting it thus
+remain for a couple of days. This is certainly a valuable hint
+if true, and is well worth remembering.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For skinning the skunk, see Beaver, Otter and Fox.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_199"><span class="page">Page 199</span></a>
+THE WOLVERINE.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This, one of the most ferocious as well as detestable of American
+animals, is principally found in British America and the upper
+portion of the United States. It has won a world wide reputation
+for its fierceness and voracity, and on this account is popularly
+known as the Glutton. It is not confined to America, but is also
+found in Siberia and Northern Europe.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig119.jpg" width="512" height="460" alt="Figure 119">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The general appearance of this animal, ugly in disposition as in
+appearance, is truthfully given in our illustration. It is not
+unlike a small bear in looks, and was formerly classed among that
+genus.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The general color of the wolverine is dark brown. The muzzle, as
+far back as the eye-brows, is black, and the immense paws partake
+of the same hue. The claws of the animal are
+<a name="page_200"><span class="page">Page 200</span></a>
+long and almost white, forming a singular contrast to the jetty fur
+of the feet. So large are the feet of this animal, and so powerful
+the claws, that a mere look at them will tell the story of their
+death dealing qualities, a single stroke from one of them often
+being sufficient for a mortal wound. Although the wolverine is
+not as large as the bear, its foot prints in the snow are often
+mistaken for those of that creature, being nearly of the same size.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The glutton feeds largely on the smaller quadrupeds, and is a most
+determined foe to the beaver during the summer months; the ice-hardened
+walls of their houses serving as a perfect protection against his
+attacks in the winter time.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+To the trapper of the north the wolverine is a most detested enemy,
+following the rounds of the traps and either detaching the baits
+or tearing away the dead animals which have fallen a prey to them.
+The trapper's entire circuit will be thus followed in a single
+night, and where the veritable "glutton" does not care to devour
+its victim it will satisfy its ferocious instinct by scratching
+it in pieces, leaving the mutilated remains to tell the story of
+its nocturnal visit.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The wolverine is a dangerous foe to many animals larger than itself,
+and by the professional hunter it is looked upon as an ugly and
+dangerous customer.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are several methods of trapping this horrid creature, and
+in many localities successful trapping of other animals will be
+impossible without first ridding the neighborhood of the wolverines.
+Dead-falls of large size will be found to work successfully, baiting
+with the body of some small animal, such as a rat or squirrel.
+A piece of cat, beaver or muskrat flesh is also excellent, and
+by slightly scenting with castoreum success will be made sure.
+Several of these traps may be set at intervals, and a trail made
+by dragging a piece of smoked beaver meat between them. The gun
+trap, as described on <a href="#page_20">page 20</a>, will also do
+good service in exterminating this useless and troublesome animal.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Steel traps of size No. 3 or 4 are commonly used to good purpose.
+They may be arranged in any of the various methods already described,
+the plan of the enclosure, <a href="#page_143">page 143</a>, being
+particularly desirable. In all cases the trap should be covered
+with leaves, moss or the like, and the bait slightly scented with
+castoreum. Like all voracious animals, the perpetual greed of the
+wolverine completely overbalances its caution, and thus renders
+its capture an easy task.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_201"><span class="page">Page 201</span></a>
+The home of the animal is generally in a crevice or cave between
+rocks, and its young, two or three in number, are brought forth
+in May.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In removing the skin, it may be ripped up the belly, or taken off
+whole, as described for the fox.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE OPOSSUM.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The opossum is found more or less throughout nearly all the United
+States. In size it equals a large cat, the tail being about fifteen
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 498px;">
+  <img src="images/fig120.jpg" width="205" height="517" alt="Figure 120">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+inches long, very flexible and covered with scales. The general
+color of the fur is grayish-white, slightly tinged with yellow,
+<a name="page_202"><span class="page">Page 202</span></a>
+and the legs are of a brownish hue, which color also surrounds the
+eyes to some extent.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The fur is comparatively soft and wooly, and thickly sprinkled with
+long hairs, white at the base and brown at the tips.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The nature and habits of the animal are very interesting. Its nest
+is made in some sheltered hollow in an old fallen or live tree,
+or beneath overhanging roots or rocks, and composed of moss and
+dead leaves. The young are produced in several litters during the
+year, and when born are transferred by the mother to a pouch situated
+in the lower front portion of her body. Here they remain and are
+nourished by the parent until they are five weeks old, at which
+time they emerge and travel with their mother, and their little
+ring tails do them good service in holding fast to their guardian.
+It is an amusing sight to see a family of young 'possums thus linked
+together, and so "attached to each other."
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The opossum is a voracious and destructive animal, prowling about
+during the hours of darkness and prying into every nook and corner in
+hope of finding something that may satisfy the cravings of imperious
+hunger. Rats, mice, nuts, berries, birds, insects and eggs are all
+devoured by this animal; and when not content with these he does
+not hesitate to insinuate himself into the poultry yard, and make
+a meal on the fowls and young chickens. His fondness for fruit and
+Indian corn often leads him to commit great havoc among plantations
+and fruit trees, and his appetite for the fruit of the persimmon tree
+is proverbial. While feeding on these fruits he frequently hangs
+by his tail, as seen in our illustration, gathering the persimmons
+with his fore paws and eating them while thus suspended. He is a
+most agile climber, and his tenacity and terminal resources in
+this direction are admirably depicted in that well known Methodist
+sermon, as follows: "An' you may shake one foot loose, but 'tothers
+thar; an' you may shake <i>all</i> his feet loose, but he laps
+his tail around the lim' an' he clings forever."
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+He is an adept at feigning death, "playing 'possum" so skilfully
+as frequently to deceive an expert.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+"'Possums" are hunted in the Southern States much after the manner
+of coons; and to the negroes a "'possum hunt" signifies most unbounded
+sport."
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Though cunning in many ways, the opossum is singularly simple in
+others. There is hardly any animal more easily captured; for it
+will walk into the clumsiest of traps, and permit itself to be
+ensnared by a device at which an American rat would look with utter
+contempt.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_203"><span class="page">Page 203</span></a>
+The dead-fall, garrote, or stout snare may all be employed, being
+baited with any of the substances already described. The steel
+trap 2-1/1 or 3 is most commonly used, being set in the haunts of
+the animal, and slightly scented with musk.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+See Fox and Beaver, for directions for skinning, stretching, etc., etc.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE RABBIT.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The rabbit or "cotton tail," as he is familiarly termed, is too
+well-known to need any description here. From Maine to Texas our
+woods abound with these fleet-footed little creatures, of which
+there are several American species. They are the swiftest of all
+American quadrupeds, and have been known to clear over twenty feet
+in a single leap. They are all natural burrowers, although they
+often forego the trouble of excavating a home when one can be found
+already made, and which can be easily modified or adapted to their
+purposes. The common rabbit of New England often makes its home or
+"form," beneath a pile of brush or logs, or in crevices in rocks.
+Here it brings forth its young, of which there are often three
+or four litters a year. The creature becomes a parent at a very
+early age, and by the time that a rabbit is a year old it may have
+attained the dignity of a grand parent.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The food of the rabbit consists of grasses, bark, leaves, bulbs,
+young twigs, buds, berries and the like, and of cultivated vegetables
+of all kinds, when opportunity favors. When surprised in the woods
+it manifests its alarm by violently striking the ground with its
+feet, causing the peculiar sound so often noticed at their first
+jump. The animal is fond of pursuing a beaten path in the woods,
+and is often snared at such places. Its enemies, beside man, are
+the lynx, and other carnivorous animals, hawks, owls, and even
+the domestic cat.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The rabbit is a favorite game with all amateur sportsmen, and the
+devices used in its capture are multitudinous. It is by no means
+a difficult animal to trap, and a glance through the second and
+fourth sections of our book, will reveal many ingenious snares
+and other contrivances, commonly and successfully used.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Box trap, <a href="#page_103">page 103</a>, is perhaps the
+most universal example of rabbit trap, but the Self-setting trap,
+<a href="#page_110">page 110</a>, and Double-ender, <a
+href="#page_109">page 109</a>, are also equally effective where
+the animal is desired to be taken alive. If this is not an object,
+the snare is to be recommended as simple in construction and sure
+in its result.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_204"><span class="page">Page 204</span></a>
+The above constitute the only devices commonly used for the capture
+of the rabbit, the steel trap being dispensed with. On <a
+href="#page_109">page 109</a> will be found additional remarks
+concerning the rabbit, and many hints no baiting, etc., are also
+given under the heads of the various traps above alluded to.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The skin of the rabbit is very thin and tender, and should be carefully
+removed, either as described for the fox, or in the ordinary method,
+by incision up the belly. Full directions for curing and tanning
+the skins will be found under its proper head in a later portion
+of this work.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE WOOD-CHUCK.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This animal also called the marmot, is so well-known to most of
+our readers, that a detailed description will not be necessary,
+suffice it to say that the general color is brownish grey above,
+changing to reddish brown on the under parts. The head, tail and
+feet partaking of a darker color. The length of the animal is about
+a foot and a-half, exclusive of the tail, which is four inches
+long.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The woodchuck is a clumsy looking animal, and anything but active
+in its movements. It is very unintelligent, and is always too ready
+to use its powerful teeth on the hand of any one who may attempt
+to handle it. It is naturally a timid animal, but when cornered
+or brought to bay, it fights most desperately.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The woodchuck is an expert excavator, and where the animals exist
+in large numbers great damage is done by their united burrowing. They
+generally remain in their burrows during the day, only venturing out
+casually to see what is going on, and keeping near their entrance.
+Towards evening they start out to feed, devouring certain grasses
+and weeds, and also pumpkins and green corn with avidity, ever
+and anon sitting upright on their haunches, to see if the coast
+is clear. In case they are surprised in their meal, they hurry
+home in a pell-mell sort of a way, giving as much the appearance
+of rolling as running, but, nevertheless, getting over the ground
+with fair speed for such an unwieldy animal. The skin is loose and
+very tough, and possesses no commercial value, being principally
+used for whiplashes. Their burrows are generally on the slope of
+a hill, and often at the foot of a rock or tree. These tunnels
+vary from ten to thirty feet in length, sloping downward from the
+opening, afterward taking an upward turn and terminating in a roomy
+chamber, in which the animal sleeps in
+<a name="page_205"><span class="page">Page 205</span></a>
+winter and where the young from three to eight in number are brought
+forth. The woodchuck is found throughout nearly the whole of the
+United States, and is especially abundant in New England, where
+it is a decided nuisance. It is found as far south as Tennessee,
+and westward to the Rocky Mountains. The flesh of the woodchuck
+is by many much esteemed as food, particularly in the Fall. When
+used for this purpose, the animal should be skinned and carefully
+cleaned immediately after death, taking especial care to remove the
+masses of fat which lie inside of the legs, as these, if allowed
+to remain, are sure to taint the flesh in cooking.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The animals are easily caught by setting the traps at the entrance
+of their burrows, and carefully covering them with loose earth,
+no bait being required. They may also be captured by the aid of
+a spring-pole, with noose attached, the pole being bent down and
+caught under a notched stick, and the noose being arranged at the
+opening of the burrow, see <a href="#page_43">page 43</a>, the
+Woodchuck in passing in or out will become entangled in the noose,
+and in his efforts to escape the pole will be loosened from the peg,
+thus lifting the animal in mid-air. Woodchucks are also sometimes
+drowned out of their holes, and the turtle is often put to good use
+for the purpose of smoking the animals from their subterranean
+dwellings. A ball of wicking saturated with kerosene is attached
+by a wire to the tail of the reptile. When the ball is ignited
+the creature is introduced into the entrance of the hole, and of
+course in fleeing from its fiery pursuer it traverses the full
+length of the burrow, and as another matter of course drives out
+its other occupants, which are shot or captured as they emerge.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The woodchunk's skin is generally taken off as described for the
+muskrat, and stretched accordingly.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE GOPHER.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This remarkable little animal somewhat resembles the Mole in its
+general appearance and habits. It is also commonly known as the
+Canada Pouched Rat, and is principally found west of the Mississippi
+and northward. It is a burrowing animal, and like the Mole drives
+its subterranean tunnels in all directions, throwing up little
+hillocks at regular intervals of from five to twenty feet. Its
+body is thick set and clumsy and about ten inches long, and its
+Mole-like claws are especially adapted for digging. Its food consists
+of roots and vegetables, and its
+<a name="page_206"><span class="page">Page 206</span></a>
+long and projecting incisors are powerful agents in cutting the
+roots which cross its path in making its burrow. The most striking
+characteristic of the animal, and that from which it takes its
+name, consists in the large cheek pouches which hang from each
+side of the mouth and extend back to to shoulders. They are used as
+receptacles of food which the animal hurriedly gathers when above
+ground, afterward returning to its burrow to enjoy its feast at its
+leisure. It was formerly very commonly and erroneously believed
+that the Gopher used its pouches in conveying the earth from its
+burrow, and this is generally supposed at the present day, but
+it is now known that the animal uses these pockets only for the
+conveyance of its food.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The color of the fur is reddish-brown on the upper parts, fading
+to ashy-brown on the abdomen, and the feet are white.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In making its tunnels, the dirt is brought to the surface, thus
+making the little mounds after the manner of the mole. After having
+dug its tunnel for several feet the distance becomes so great as
+to render this process impossible, and the old hole is carefully
+stopped up and a new one made at the newly excavated end of the
+tunnel, the animal continuing on in its labors and dumping from
+the fresh orifice. These mounds of earth occur at intervals on
+the surface of the ground, and although no hole can be discovered
+beneath them, they nevertheless serve to indicate the track of
+the burrow, which lies several inches beneath.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Gopher is a great pest to western cultivators, and by its root
+feeding and undermining propensities does extensive injury to crops
+generally. They may be successfully trapped in the following manner:
+Strike a line between the two most recent earth mounds, and midway
+between them remove a piece of the sod. By the aid of a trowel
+or a sharp stick the burrow may now be reached. Insert your hand
+in the tunnel and enlarge the interior sufficiently to allow the
+introduction of No. (0) steel trap. Set the trap flatly in the
+bottom of the burrow, and then laying a piece of shingle or a few
+sticks across the excavation replace the sod. Several traps may
+be thus set in the burrows at considerable distances apart, and a
+number of the animals thus taken. The traps are sometimes inserted
+in the burrows from the hillocks, by first finding the hole and
+then enlarging it by inserting the arm and digging with the hand
+beneath. The former method, however, is preferable.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The skin of the Gopher may be pulled off the body either by cutting
+up the hind less, as described in reference to the Fox,
+<a name="page_207"><span class="page">Page 207</span></a>
+or by making the incision from the lower jaw down the neck, as decided
+for the muskrat, a simple board stretcher being used.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE MOLE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Of all the mammalia the Mole is entitled to take the first place
+in the list of burrowers. This extraordinary creature does not
+merely dig tunnels in the ground and sit at the end of them, as is
+the case with many animals, but it forms a complicated subterranean
+dwelling place with chambers, passages and other arrangements of
+wonderful completeness. It has regular roads leading to its feeding
+grounds; establishes a system of communication as elaborate as
+that of a modern railway, or, to be more correct, as that of the
+subterranean network of the sewers of a city. It is an animal of
+varied accomplishments. It can run tolerably fast, it can fight
+like a bull-dog, it can capture prey under or above ground, it can
+swim fearlessly, and it can sink wells for the purpose of quenching
+its thirst. Take the mole out of its proper sphere, and it is awkward
+and clumsy as the sloth when placed on level ground, or the seal
+when brought ashore. Replace it in the familiar earth and it becomes
+a different being, full of life and energy, and actuated by a fiery
+activity which seems quite inconsistent with its dull aspect and
+seemingly inert form.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We all know that the mole burrows under the ground, raising at
+intervals the little hillocks or "mole hills" with which we are
+so familiar; but most of us little know the extent or variety of
+its tunnels, or that the animal works on a regular system and does
+not burrow here and there at random. How it manages to form its
+burrows in such admirably straight lines, is not an easy problem,
+because it is always done in black darkness, and we know of nothing
+which can act as a guide to the animal. As for ourselves and other
+eye-possessing creatures, the feat of walking in a straight line
+with closed eyelids is almost an impossibility, and every swimmer
+knows the difficulty of keeping a straight course under water,
+even with the use of his eyes.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The ordinary mole hills, so plentiful in our fields, present nothing
+particularly worthy of notice. They are merely the shafts through
+which the quadruped miner ejects the material which it has scooped
+out, as it drives its many tunnels through the soil, and if they
+be carefully opened after the rain has consolidated the heap of
+loose material, nothing more will be discovered than a simple hole
+leading into the tunnel. But let us
+<a name="page_208"><span class="page">Page 208</span></a>
+strike into one of the large tunnels, as any mole catcher will
+teach us, and follow it up to the real abode of the animal. The
+hill under which this domicile is hidden, is of considerable size,
+but is not very conspicuous, being always placed under the shelter of
+a tree, shrub, or a suitable bank, and would scarcely be discovered
+but by a practiced eye. The subterranean abode within the hillock
+is so remarkable that it involuntarily reminds the observer of the
+well-known "maze," which has puzzled the earliest years of youth
+throughout many generations. The central apartment, or "keep,"
+if we so term it, is a nearly spherical chamber, the roof of which
+is almost on a level with the earth around the hill, and therefore
+situated at a considerable depth from the apex of the heap. Around
+this keep are driven two circular passages or galleries, one just
+level with the ceiling and the other at some height above. Five
+short descending passages connect the galleries with each other,
+but the only entrance into the keep is from the upper gallery,
+out of which three passages lead into the ceiling of the keep. It
+will be seen therefore that when the mole enters the house from
+one of its tunnels, it has first to get into the lower gallery
+to ascend thence into the upper gallery, and so descend into the
+central chamber. There is, however, another entrance into the keep
+from below. A passage dips downward from the centre of the chamber,
+and then, taking a curve upwards, opens into one of the larger burrows
+or high roads, as they may be fitly termed. It is a noteworthy
+fact that the high roads, of which there are several radiating in
+different directions, never open into the gallery opposite one
+of the entrances into the upper gallery. The mole therefore is
+obliged to go to the right or left as soon as it enters the domicile
+before it can find a passage to the upper gallery. By the continual
+pressure of the moles upon the walls of the passages and roof of
+the central chamber, they become quite smooth, hard, and polished,
+so that the earth will not fall in, even after the severest storm.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The use of so complicated a series of cells and passages is extremely
+doubtful, and our total ignorance of the subject affords another
+reason why the habits of this wonderful animal should be better
+studied.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+About the middle of June the moles begin to fall in love, and are
+as furious in their attachments as in all other phases of their
+nature. At that time two male moles cannot meet without mutual
+jealousy, and they straightway begin to fight, scratching, tearing,
+and biting with such insane fury that they seem unconscious
+<a name="page_209"><span class="page">Page 209</span></a>
+of anything except the heat of battle. Indeed the whole life of
+the mole is one of fury, and he eats like a starving tiger, tearing
+and rending his prey with claws and teeth, and crunching audibly
+the body of the worm between the sharp points. Magnify the mole
+to the size of the lion and you will have a beast more terrible
+than the world has yet seen. Though nearly blind, and therefore
+incapable of following its prey by sight, it would be active beyond
+conception, springing this way and that way as it goes along, leaping
+with lightness and quickness upon any animal which it meets, rending
+it in pieces in a moment, thrusting its blood-thirsty snout into
+the body of its victim, eating the still warm and bleeding flesh,
+and instantly searching for fresh prey. Such a creature would,
+without the least hesitation, devour a serpent twenty feet in length,
+and so terrible would be its voracity that it would eat twenty or
+thirty of such snakes in a day as easily as it devours the same
+number of worms. With one grasp of its teeth and one stroke of
+its claws, it could tear an ox asunder; and if it should happen
+to enter a fold of sheep or enclosure of cattle, it would kill
+them all for the mere lust of slaughter. Let, then, two of such
+animals meet in combat, and how terrific would be the battle! Fear
+is a feeling of which the mole seems to be utterly unconscious,
+and, when fighting with one of its own species, he gives his whole
+energies to the destruction of his opponent without seeming to heed
+the injuries inflicted upon himself. From the foregoing sketch
+the reader will be able to estimate the extraordinary energies of
+this animal, as well as the wonderful instincts with which it is
+endowed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The fur of the mole is noted for its clean, velvety aspect; and
+that an animal should be able to pass unsoiled through earth of
+all textures is a really remarkable phenomenon. It is partly to
+be explained by the character of the hair, and partly by that of
+the skin. The hair of the mole is peculiar on account of its want
+of "set." The tops of the hairs do not point in any particular
+direction, but may be pressed equally forward or backward or to
+either side. The microscope reveals the cause of this peculiarity.
+The hair is extremely fine at its exit from the skin, and gradually
+increases in thickness until it reaches its full width when it
+again diminishes. This alternation occurs several times in each
+hair, and gives the peculiar velvet-like texture with which we
+are all so familiar. There is scarcely any coloring matter in the
+slender portion of the hair, and the beautiful changeable coppery
+hues of the fur is
+<a name="page_210"><span class="page">Page 210</span></a>
+owing to this structure. Another reason for the cleanliness of
+the fur is the strong, though membranous muscle beneath the skin.
+While the mole is engaged in travelling, particularly in loose
+earth, the soil for a time clings to the fur; but at tolerably
+regular intervals the creature gives the skin a sharp and powerful
+shake, which throws off at once the whole of the mould that has
+collected upon the fur. Some amount of dust still remains, for,
+however clean the fur of a mole may seem to be, if the creature
+be placed for an hour in water, a considerable quantity of earth
+will be dissolved away and fall to the bottom of the vessel. The
+improvement in the fur after being well washed with soft tepid
+water and soap, is almost incredible. Many persons have been struck
+with such admiration for the fur of the mole, that they have been
+desirous of having a number of the skins collected and made into a
+waist-coat. This certainly can be done, but the garment thus made
+is so very hot that it can only be worn in winter. Such garments
+are very expensive, and owing to the tender quality of the skin,
+possess but little lasting powers. There is also a wonderfully
+strong smell about the mole; so strong, indeed, that dogs will
+sometimes point at moles instead of game, to the great disgust
+of their masters. This odor adheres obstinately to the skin, and
+even in furs which have been dried for more than ten years, this
+peculiar savor has been noticed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We have given much space to the mole, not particularly on account
+of its particular usefulness to the trapper, but because of its
+many claims to our notice. If the creature were a rare and costly
+inhabitant of some distant land, how deep would be the interest
+which it would incite. But because it is a creature of our country,
+and to be found in every field, there are but few who care to examine
+a creature so common, or who experience any feelings save those
+of disgust when they see a mole making its way over the ground
+in search of a soft spot in which to burrow.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In many localities this interesting animal exists in such numbers
+as to become a positive nuisance, and the invention of a trap which
+would effectually curtail their depredations has been a problem
+to many a vexed and puzzled farmer.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Mole traps of various kinds have found their way into our agricultural
+papers, but none has proved more effectual than the one we describe
+on <a href="#page_119">page 119</a>. An arrangement of the <i>figure
+four</i>, <a href="#page_107">page 107</a>, is also sometimes employed
+with good success. In this case the bait stick crosses the upright stick
+<a name="page_211"><span class="page">Page 211</span></a>
+close to the ground, and rests over the burrow of the mole, the
+earth being previously pressed down to the surrounding level. The
+stone should be narrow and very heavy, and of course no bait is
+required.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The pieces should be set carefully, and so adjusted that the lifting
+of the soil beneath the stick as the mole forces its way through
+the compressed earth will dislodge the bait stick and let down
+the stone with its crushing weight.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another method consists in embedding a deep flower pot in one of
+the main tunnels of the animal, and carefully replacing the soil
+above. The mole in traversing his burrow thus falls into the pit
+and is effectually captured. This is a very ingenious mode of taking
+the animal, and rewarded its inventor with seven moles on the first
+night of trial.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are a number of other devices said to work excellently, but
+the above we believe to be the most effectual of all.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are several species of American moles, the star-nosed variety
+being familiar to most of us. The most common moles are the shrew
+moles, with pointed noses. The silver mole is a large species, of
+a changeable silvery color, found on the Western prairies. The
+Oregon mole is nearly black, with purplish or brownish reflections.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The most beautiful of all the moles is found at the Cape of Good
+Hope. It is of about the size of the ordinary American species, and
+its soft fur glistens with brilliant green and golden reflections.
+The fur of this species is probably the most wonderful and beautiful
+in the whole animal kingdom.
+</p>
+
+<h4>SQUIRRELS.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are many species of squirrels found in the United States,
+but their fur is of little value, and of trifling importance in
+the fur trade; the squirrel fur of our markets being that of a
+small grey European variety. Squirrels, as a class, possess much
+the same peculiarities and habits. Their claws are particularly
+adapted for life among the trees; their tails are long and bushy,
+covering over the backs of the animals when in a sitting posture.
+They are all lithe and quick of movement, and their senses of sight
+and hearing are especially keen. They are constantly on the alert,
+and are full of artifice when pursued. Their food consists chiefly
+of nuts, fruits, and grain, but when pushed by hunger, there is
+no telling what they will not eat. They generally provide for the
+winter months by laying
+<a name="page_212"><span class="page">Page 212</span></a>
+up a store of the foregoing provisions, either in holes in trees or
+interstices in the bark, or in cavities under ground. The shag-bark
+hickory offers an especial inducement to these provident creatures
+in the numerous crevices and cracks throughout the bark. It is
+not an uncommon thing to find whole handfuls of nuts carefully
+packed away in one of these cracks, and a sharp stroke with an ax
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 498px;">
+  <img src="images/fig121.jpg" width="495" height="372" alt="Figure 121">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+in the trunk of one of these trees will often dislodge numbers of
+the nuts. The writer has many a time gone "nutting" in this way in
+the middle of winter with good success. The nests of squirrels are
+generally built in trees, either in a crotch between the branches
+or in some deserted woodpecker's hole. Some species live in burrows
+in the ground, and those individuals who are lucky enough to be in
+the neighborhood of a barn often make their abode therein, taking
+their regular three meals a day from the granary. In many localities
+these animals thus become a perfect pest to the farmers, and their
+destruction becomes a matter of urgent necessity.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Squirrels, although resembling each other much as regards
+<a name="page_213"><span class="page">Page 213</span></a>
+their general habits, differ considerably in the size and color
+of the different species.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The principal varieties found on our continent are:&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The large grey squirrel, which is common in the Eastern and Middle
+States, and which is about two feet in length, including the tail.
+The common red squirrel, or chicaree, smaller than the foregoing,
+and found more or less all through the United States. The black
+squirrel, which is about the size of the grey, and found in the
+north-eastern part of the United States, near the great lakes. In
+the Southern States there is a variety known as the fox squirrel,
+about the size of the red squirrel, and quite variable in color.
+The Middle States furnishes a species called the cat squirrel,
+rather smaller than the preceding. Its tail is very broad, and its
+color varies from very light to very dark grey.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The ground squirrel, or chipmuck, with its prettily striped sides,
+is common to most of our readers, its general color being red and
+the stripes being black and white.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another burrowing species, known as the Oregon or downy squirrel,
+is found in the Territory from which it takes its name, and also
+northward in British America. In size it resembles the chipmuck,
+and its color is light red above, pure white beneath, and silver
+grey at the sides.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The beautiful silky variety, known as the flying squirrel, with
+its grey chinchilla-like fur and loose skin, is found throughout
+the United States east of the Mississippi.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Louisiana and Texas furnish the golden-bellied squirrel, which is
+about twenty inches in length, with tail golden yellow beneath,
+and golden grey above. The sooty squirrel is also found in this
+locality, being about the same size as the last mentioned, and
+black above and brownish red beneath.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are other varieties in California known as the woolly,
+soft-haired, and weasel squirrels; and in the Western States we
+find the large red-tailed squirrels, which are about the size of
+the large grey variety of the Eastern and Middle States.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Squirrels, as a tribe, are much sought for as pets, and most of
+the species are easily tamed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Box traps of various kinds are used in taking them alive. The varieties
+on pages <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>
+and <a href="#page_110">110</a> are especially adapted for this
+purpose, and should be set either in the trees or on the ground, and
+baited with an apple, a portion of an ear of corn, or of whatever
+the animal is particularly fond.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When the animals exist in such numbers as to become a destructive
+<a name="page_214"><span class="page">Page 214</span></a>
+nuisance to the farm, the small-sized steel trap, No. 0, arranged
+with bait hung above it, will work to good advantage. Twitch-ups
+are also successful, and we might also recommend the traps on pages
+<a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a> and <a
+href="#page_128">128</a> as worthy of trial when the animal is
+not desired to be captured alive.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Squirrels may be skinned either by ripping up the belly, or in a
+whole piece, as described in regard to the fox.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We pause before going further into the mysteries of trapping in
+connection with the animals which we are about to consider, as
+they are generally exempt from the wiles of the trapper's art,
+coming more properly in the field of the hunter or sportsman. The
+idea of trapping a deer, for instance, seems barbarous indeed;
+but are not all the ways of deceiving and killing these splendid
+animals equally so? Are not the various strategies and cunning
+devices of the sportsman, by which these noble creatures are decoyed
+and murdered, equally open to the same objection? As far as barbarity
+goes, there is to us but little choice between the two methods;
+and, generally speaking, we decry them both, and most especially
+do not wish to be understood as encouraging the trapping of these
+animals, except where all other means have failed, and in cases
+where their capture becomes in a measure a matter of necessity.
+This is often the case in the experience of professional trappers.
+The life of the trapper during the trapping season is spent almost
+entirely in the wilderness, often many miles from any human habitation;
+and at times he is solely dependent upon his gun or trap for his
+necessary food.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Sometimes in a dry season, when the leaves and twigs crackle under
+foot, the rifle is as good as useless, for it becomes impossible to
+approach a deer within shooting range. And there are other times
+when ammunition is exhausted, and the trapper is thus forced to rely
+only on his traps for his supply of food. In such circumstances,
+the necessities of the trapper are paramount, and the trapping of
+deer, in such straits, as the most desirable food is rather to
+be recommended than condemned. The same remarks also in a measure
+apply to the moose and prong-horn antelope, as well as to several
+other animals hereinafter mentioned, as they are generally considered
+more in the light of the hunter's than the trapper's game.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_215"><span class="page">Page 215</span></a>
+THE DEER.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are upwards of eight varieties of this animal which inhabit
+North America. The common red or Virginian deer is found throughout
+the United States. The stag or Wapiti deer is now chiefly confined
+to the country west of the Mississippi and northward to British
+America. The moose we shall speak of hereafter. The Rocky Mountain
+mule deer, and the long-tailed deer of the same locality, are two
+more species, and there are also the black-tailed deer and the
+reindeer, the latter of which is a native of British America. The
+scope of our volume will not of course admit of detailed directions
+for trapping each variety, but, as the habits of all the species are
+in a measure similar, our remarks will apply to them in general,
+and particularly to the red or Virginian deer, which is the most
+important to American trappers.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trap for taking deer should be large, strong, and covered with
+spikes. The Newhouse (No. 4) is particularly adapted, and is especially
+arranged for this purpose.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When the path of the deer is discovered on the border of a stream
+or lake, the trap should be set beneath the surface of the water,
+near the tracks of the animal, and covered by a handful of dried
+grass thrown upon it. When thus set, it may either be left to run
+its chances, or success, further insured by the following precaution:
+In winter the principal food of the deer consists of the twigs,
+buds, and bark of various forest trees, and particularly those
+of the basswood and maple. In the season when the traps are set
+as above described, a most tempting bait is furnished by a large
+branch of either of those trees, freshly cut, and laid near the
+trap. The deer in feeding are thus almost sure to be captured.
+There are certain glands which are located on the inner side of the
+hind legs of the deer, and which emit a very strong and peculiar
+odor. The scent of these glands seems to attract the animal, and
+for this reason are cut out and used by trappers as a scent-bait.
+In the case already described, it is well to rub the glands on
+the twigs of the trees, thus serving as an additional attraction
+to the bait. There is still another method of trapping deer, which
+is commonly employed in the winter time. The trap is sunk in the
+snow at the foot of a tree, and the bait, consisting of an ear
+of corn or a few beards of other grain, is fastened to the tree,
+above the trap, three or more feet from the ground. The animal, in
+reaching for the bait, places its foot in the trap and is secured.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_216"><span class="page">Page 216</span></a>
+When first caught, the deer becomes very wild and violent; so much
+so that if the trap were chained or retarded by a heavy clog, the
+chain, or even the trap itself, would most likely be broken. The
+weight of a trap of this size is generally a sufficient impediment,
+no clog, or at best a very light one, being required. The first
+frantic plunge being over, the entrapped creature immediately yields
+and lies down upon the ground, and is always to be found within
+a few rods of where the trap was first sprung upon him. During
+the winter the traps may also be set in the snow, using the same
+bait already described. It is a common method to fell a small tree
+for the purpose, setting the traps beneath the snow, around the
+top branches. The deer, in browsing in the tender twigs or buds,
+are almost certain to be captured. Dead-falls of different kinds
+are sometimes used in trapping the deer, with good success; using
+the scent bait already described, together with the other bait.
+The food of the deer during the summer consists of nuts, fruits,
+acorns, grass, berries, and water plants, and when in convenient
+neighborhood of cultivated lands, they do not hesitate to make
+a meal from the farmer's turnips, cabbages, and grain.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As we have said, the winter food consists chiefly of the twigs of
+trees. When the snow is deep the deer form what are called "yards,"
+about such trees as they particularly select for their browsing.
+These yards are made simply by tramping down the snow, and large
+numbers of the deer are often thus found together. As the supply
+of food is consumed, the yard is enlarged, so as to enclose other
+trees for browsing, and where deep snows abound throughout the
+winter, these enclosures often become quite extensive in area.
+Panthers, wolves, and wolverines take especial advantage of these,
+and easily secure their victims. By wolves especially entire herds
+of deer are thus destroyed, and whole yards depopulated in a single
+night. Panthers secrete themselves in the trees above the boughs
+overhanging the "yards," and, with stealthy movements, approach and
+pounce upon their unsuspecting prey. The blood-thirsty wolverine
+secretes himself in the nooks and by-ways to spring upon its tawny
+victim unawares. These, together with man, form the principal foes
+of the deer, and we can truthfully assert that the <i>hunter</i>
+is much more its enemy than the <i>trapper</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As we do not wish to encourage the wanton trapping of this noble
+creature, it would perhaps be well for us to devote also few words
+in describing the various modes of hunting the animal,
+<a name="page_217"><span class="page">Page 217</span></a>
+adopted by the "professional sportsmen" throughout the land. The
+most common method is that called "still hunting," most generally
+pursued in winter. The hunter is shod with deer-skin or other soft
+sandals, and starts out with his rifle and ammunition. Finding the
+fresh track of the deer, he cautiously and noiselessly follows up
+the trail, keeping a sharp lookout ahead. A practised deer-hunter
+becomes very skillful and accurate, and the animal is nearly always
+tracked to discovery, when he is shot. The deer's sense of smell is
+extremely acute, and, when in shooting range, it is very necessary
+to approach them in the face of the wind, the direction of which
+may be easily determined by holding the finger in the mouth for a
+moment, afterward pointing it upward toward the sky. The cool side
+of the finger will indicate the direction from which the wind blows,
+and toward that direction the deer should always be approached, or
+as far toward that direction as possible. It will sometimes happen
+that the hunter will surprise the buck, doe, and fawn together. In
+order to secure the three, shoot the doe first. The buck and fawn
+will remain near the spot. The buck should next be shot, and then
+the fawn, the charge being aimed at the breast. Never approach a
+wounded deer without reloading the gun, as he is often more frightened
+than hurt, and is likely to start and run away, unless prevented
+by another shot. During the snow season, deer are always watchful
+of their back track. They are generally at rest during the day,
+starting out late in the afternoon on their usual ramblings, which
+they continue through the night. During the dark hours they love
+to resort to the water side in quest of aquatic plants, and are
+here often taken by hunters, many of which consider "night hunting"
+the favorite and most exciting sport. It is pursued in the following
+manner: The hunter requires a boat or canoe, <a href="#page_261">page
+261</a>, a good rifle, and a lamp. The lamp, with a screen or reflector
+behind it, is placed at the bow of the boat. One hunter takes the
+oar, and, with noiseless paddle, propels or sculls the boat from
+the stem. The armed hunter crouches behind the light, with the
+muzzle of his rifle projecting beyond the screen sufficiently to
+easily show the forward sight on the tip of the barrel. A dark
+lantern is sometimes used as a light. The eyes of the deer shine
+very perceptibly at night, and his presence on the banks is thus
+easily detected. If he is noiselessly approached, he will remain
+transfixed by the effect of the light from the boat, and he may be
+neared even to a very close range, when he is easily despatched.
+Hundreds of deer
+<a name="page_218"><span class="page">Page 218</span></a>
+are thus taken during the summer and autumn. Deer are also chased
+by dogs until they are forced to take refuge in the nearest rivers
+or lakes, when the hunter in his canoe overtakes and shoots them.
+Another method is frequently employed in the hunting of the deer.
+These animals are very fond of salt, and with it they are often
+decoyed to a spot where the hunter lies in wait for them. These
+places are called "deer licks," or salting places, and can be made
+as follows: Select a locality where deer are known to frequent, and
+place a handful of salt either on a smooth spot of ground or in
+the hollow of a log. A section of a log is sometimes slightly dug
+out at one end and the other inserted in the earth, the salt being
+placed in the hollow. The hunter secretes himself in a neighboring
+tree, sometimes erecting a bench or scaffolding for comfort, and,
+provided with gun and ammunition, he awaits the coming of the deer.
+Hunters say that a deer seldom looks higher than his head, and
+that a sportsman on one of these scaffoldings, even though he is
+clumsy in his movements, is seldom noticed by the animal.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The salt lick is also utilized for night hunting. A head-lantern
+is generally required. This can be made in the following manner:
+Construct a cylinder of birch bark or paste-board or any like substance,
+ten inches in height, and of sufficient size to fit closely on
+the head. A circular partition should next be firmly inserted at
+about the middle of the cylinder, and the centre of the partition
+should be provided with a socket for the reception of a candle.
+On this end of the cylinder a piece should now be cut to admit
+of the passage of light from the candle on that side. Having this
+fire-hat at hand wait patiently for the game. When a significant
+noise is heard light the candle and place the cylinder on the head,
+with the open cut in front, thus directing the light toward the
+ground. As the deer approaches, his fiery eyes will easily be seen,
+and the light from the candle will shine sufficiently on the rifle
+to clearly reveal the sights and admit of a sure aim. There is still
+another method of night hunting by the salt lick. The rifle is
+aimed directly at the salted spot, and thus firmly fixed&mdash;this
+preparation being made in the daytime. When night approaches, the
+hunter finds a piece of phosphorescent wood or "fox fire," and places
+it on the ground, at a point which he has previously determined
+to be on a direct line of the aim of his gun. The "fox fire" is
+plainly seen from the tree, and as soon as it is darkened he knows
+that it is obscured by the deer, and he pulls the trigger and kills
+his game.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Deer are hunted at all seasons of the year, <i>but ought not</i> to
+<a name="page_219"><span class="page">Page 219</span></a>
+be hunted during the summer. The sport legitimately begins in September,
+when the buck begins to harden his horns, and when his flesh is
+in its best condition for food. In October the deer is more shy,
+and during this month and after, the sport is at its height. The
+deer should be skinned from an incision down the belly, and the
+hide spread on a hoop stretcher, <a href="#page_275">page 275</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE MOOSE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We have already given so much space to the hunting of the deer
+that we shall be obliged to cut short our remarks on the Moose,
+particularly as it is a representative of the same family. This
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 498px;">
+  <img src="images/fig122.jpg" width="491" height="413" alt="Figure 122">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+animal is the largest of the Deer tribe, being seven or eight feet
+in height and often weighing over fifteen hundred pounds. It is
+supplied with immense flat spreading horns, sometimes expanding to
+the distance of six feet between the tips. It is found in Maine,
+Oregon and Washington Territories, and in the neighborhood of the
+great lakes, and inhabits the regions as far
+<a name="page_220"><span class="page">Page 220</span></a>
+north as the Arctic Sea. Its color is yellowish brown. The fur is
+thicker in winter than summer, and on the neck of the animal the
+hair is very coarse and hangs in an immense tuft of over a foot
+in length. The flesh is most excellent food and is much esteemed
+by trappers. The habits of the moose are in most respects identical
+with the deer, already described, and like them they form "yards"
+during the winter season.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the North the moose is hunted on snow-shoes by the natives,
+and in summer they are shot like the deer. They are often very
+dangerous and terrible creatures to hunt, and the utmost care and
+skill, as described in regard to the deer, is required on the part
+of the hunter in order to avoid detection through the exquisite
+sense of smell which the animal possesses. The moose is easily
+trapped. The Newhouse, No. 6, is especially adapted for the purpose,
+and it should be chained to a clog of stone or wood of over fifty
+pounds in weight. Set the trap in the "yard," or beneath the snow
+where the moose frequents, or in the summer, or fall seasons, as
+described for the deer, using the same methods in regard to baiting,
+etc.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Skin after the manner of cattle, and stretch the hide on a
+hoop-spreader. <a href="#page_275">Page 275</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h4>ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+These creatures are natives of the entire range of the Rocky Mountains,
+and are especially prized on account of the superior quality of
+their flesh as food. They are much larger and more powerful than
+the domestic sheep, and the ram is provided with enormous curved
+horns. The wool of the animal is intermixed with coarse grey hairs,
+and the general appearance of the fur is russet grey, with the
+exception of the rump and under parts, which are of a dirty white
+color. The animal is generally very wary and retiring, and inhabits
+the most secluded and inaccessible mountain regions and rocky cliffs.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+They are easily captured by the steel trap (No. 5) set in their
+haunts. The dead-fall is also used in some instances. Remove the
+skin as described for the deer.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE BUFFALO.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Buffaloes or Bison of the Western plains is too well known
+to need description. They travel in migrating herds of thousands,
+and are found from Texas to British America. Their food
+<a name="page_221"><span class="page">Page 221</span></a>
+consists chiefly of grass, of which the "Buffalo grass" is their
+great delight. They graze and travel through the day and rest by
+night. They are more the game of the hunter than the trapper, although
+the largest side Newhouse would effectually secure one of the animals.
+The Buffalo is generally hunted on horseback, the usual method
+being that of stealing into the drove while grazing, always moving
+against the wind in order to avoid being scented. The flesh is
+palatable and by many much relished. The Buffalo skins of commerce
+are furnished by the cows. The bull skins are almost devoid of fur
+on the hinder parts, the hair being confined to the huge heavy
+mass on the hump and mane. Skin the animal as described for the
+Moose.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This sole American representative of the Antelope tribe we believe
+is seldom trapped; but as it is a well-known animal on the Western
+plains, a short mention of it is required here. In general shape
+this creature bears considerable resemblance to the deer, the form of
+the horn being its chief peculiarity, each one of which is provided
+with a single prong, from which the animal takes its name, of Prong
+Horn. The color of the body is brownish-yellow, with the exception
+of the rump and belly which are almost white. The Antelopes generally
+travel in herds, and are much hunted by the Indians who surround
+them and destroy them with heavy clubs. Like the deer, their sense
+of smell is especially keen and the same caution is required in
+hunting them. In size they are about the same as the Virginian
+Deer. They are wonderfully graceful in all their movements, and
+are even more fleet of foot than the deer. These Antelopes inhabit
+the Western Prairies and wooded borders from New Mexico northward,
+and their flesh is much esteemed as an article of diet. They may
+be caught in their feeding places, as recommended for the deer,
+using the same sized trap.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The dead fall is also efficacious in their capture, and they are
+also sometimes taken in large pit-falls covered over with light
+sticks and leaves, to resemble the natural surroundings. On this
+false covering, the bait, consisting of green corn or other vegetables,
+is strewn and a high wall of logs or stones is erected around it,
+in order that the animal will be obliged to <i>jump</i> slightly
+in order to reach the bait.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Remove the hide as recommended for the deer.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_222"><span class="page">Page 222</span></a>
+SHOOTING AND POISONING.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Until the introduction of the steel-trap, shooting was a common
+method of taking fur bearing animals, and even to the present day
+it is quite prevalent in some localities. Anyone who has had any
+experience with the fur trade must have learned that furs which
+are "shot," are much affected in value. Some furriers will not
+purchase such skins at any price; and they never meet with any
+but a very low offer. "Trapped furs" and "shot furs" are terms of
+considerable significance in the fur trade, and anyone who wishes
+to realize from a profitable sale of his furs, should use his gun
+as little as possible. A shot grazing through the fur of an animal
+cuts the hairs as if with a knife, and a single such furrow is
+often enough to spoil a skin. It is these oblique grazing shots
+which particularly damage the fur, and an animal killed with a
+<i>shot gun</i> is seldom worth skinning for the value of its pelt.
+If firearms are used, the rifle is preferable. If the animal chances
+to be hit broadside or by a direct penetrating bullet, the two
+small holes thus made may not particularly effect the value of its
+skin, although even then the chances are rather slight.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Trapped furs are of the greatest value.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The use of poison is objectionable as a means of capture in animals
+especially desired for their fur. Strychnine is the substance generally
+employed, and unless its victim is skinned <i>immediately</i> after
+death the pelt becomes considerably injured by the absorption of
+the poison. It has the effect of loosening the fur and the hair
+sheds easily.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The poison is principally used in the capture of Wolves and animals
+considered in the light of vermin. For a wolf or fox, the poison
+is mixed with lard or tallow and spread on pieces of meat, or a
+small amount of the powder is inclosed in an incision in the bait.
+The amount sufficient for a single dose may be easily held on the
+point of a knife blade, and death ensues in a a very few moments
+after the bait is taken. For a Bear the dose should be a half
+thimbleful, and it should be deposited in the centre of a piece
+of honey comb, the cells being emptied of their honey for that
+purpose.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Other animals may be taken by proportionate quantities of the poison,
+but for general purposes we discourage its use.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<a name="page_223"><span class="page">Page 223</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig123.jpg" width="516" height="747"
+ alt="THE CAMPAIGN.">
+</div>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_225"><span class="page">Page 225</span></a>
+BOOK VII.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="subtitle">CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS.</p>
+
+<p><img src="images/fig124.jpg" width="66" height="201" alt="I"
+ style="float: left;">t has been the author's object in the
+preparation of this book not simply to content the reader with a
+mere superficial knowledge of so-called "Amateur trapping," but to
+carry him further into the art professionally considered, and for
+this reason we present in the following chapter a full catalogue
+of the trapper's outfit, containing detailed descriptions of all
+the necessaries for a most thorough campaign, including boats and
+canoes, log cabins, shanties and tents, snow shoes and camp
+furniture of all kinds, together with numerous and valuable hints
+on trapper's food.
+</p>
+
+<h4>PLAN OF CAMPAIGN.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The first thing to be considered in reference to a campaign is
+the selection of a trapping ground, and it is always desirable
+to choose a locality where travel by water can be resorted to as
+much as possible. Otter, mink, beaver and muskrat are among the
+most desirable game for the trapper, and as these are all amphibious
+animals, a watered district is therefore the best on all accounts.
+Lakes, ponds, and streams, bordered by wild woods, form the best
+possible grounds for general trapping, and the mountain lakes of the
+Adirondacks and Alleghenies, and all similar regions are especially
+desirable on this account. Almost any wild country, intersected with
+streams, lakes, and rivers, is apt to abound with game, and some
+trappers confine their labors to the borders of a single lake, and
+adjoining forest. This plan is especially to be recommended to the
+amateur, as much of the travelling to and fro can be done by boat,
+<a name="page_226"><span class="page">Page 226</span></a>
+the labor being thus much lightened. Having decided upon the seat
+of operations, the young trappers should immediately set to work at
+building their shanties and boats. The home shanty is of the greatest
+importance, and should be constructed first. Select some flat bit of
+land near the water and clear it of brush wood, or other rubbish and
+proceed to work as described on <a href="#page_242">page 242</a>. A
+good axe is the only tool required by an experienced trapper in the
+construction of such a shanty. Should the trapping lines be very
+extensive, additional <i>bark</i> shanties, <a href="#page_245">page
+245</a>, will require to be made at intervals along the line, for
+sleeping stations and shelters in case of storm. The professional
+trapper generally attends to the building of his shanties and boats
+before the trapping season commences, and thus has everything in
+readiness for his campaign. If in a birch bark country the Indian
+canoe, <a href="#page_260">page 260</a>, is the most desirable
+craft, on account of its lightness and portability. The dug-out,
+or bateau, described on <a href="#page_259">page 259</a>, will
+also do good service.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trapping season begins in October, and everything should be
+in readiness at this time, so that the trappers may devote all
+their time strictly to business.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The route of the professional trapper often extends over fifty
+miles, and the number and weight of traps and provisions which
+these rough-and-ready individuals often carry as personal luggage
+is most astounding. Fifty or sixty pounds apiece is considered a
+<i>fair</i> burden, and they deem no one a fit physical subject for
+a campaign who cannot at least manage thirty pounds with comparative
+ease. The number of the trapping party generally consists of from two
+to four. A few days prior to the opening of the trapping season,
+the party start out, laden with their burden of traps and provisions,
+and deposit them at intervals along the line, the provisions being
+mainly kept in the "home shanty." Several trips may be necessary to
+complete these preparations, unless the trapping ground is readily
+accessible by wagon or boat, in which case the transportation is
+much easier.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The "home shanty" is generally built only when the trapping grounds
+are far in the wilderness, miles away from civilization. If the
+line extends from the outskirts of some town or village, such a
+hut may be dispensed with. It is used principally as a storehouse
+for furs, provisions, ammunition, tools, and other valuables, and
+also serves as a point of rendezvous, or a home, for the trappers,
+one of the number being generally left in charge to "keep shanty"
+while his companions are on their tramps in search of game. If
+desired, a boy may be taken
+<a name="page_227"><span class="page">Page 227</span></a>
+along for this especial purpose. In every case, some such guardian
+is very necessary, and particularly in wild districts, abounding in
+wolves and bears, as these animals have an odd trick of breaking
+into unguarded shanties, and often make sad havoc with its stores.
+Steel traps are almost exclusively used by the professional trapper,
+and the supply for a single campaign will often exceed one hundred
+and fifty. Many of the traps described in the early part of this
+work are also used, and for the amateur who has not the ready cash
+to layout in steel traps, are decidedly to be recommended and will
+be found very efficient. From thirty to fifty traps would be a fair
+number for an ordinary amateur trapping season, and the probable
+cost of such a lot would be from $15 to $25. The sizes of the traps
+will depend upon the game sought, No. 2-1/2 being a good average.
+With this supply, relying somewhat on dead-falls, twitch-ups, and
+the various other devices described in our early pages, we can
+guarantee lively sport, of course, presuming that good judgment has
+been used in the selection of a trapping ground. In later articles,
+under the proper headings, we give full details concerning food
+and cooking utensils, shelter and bedding, as well as many other
+requisites for the trapper's comfort. To complete the list he should
+provide himself with a good sharp axe, and hatchet, and if the
+log canoe is in anticipation he will also require the other tools
+mentioned on <a href="#page_259">page 259</a> an oilstone being
+carried in order to keep the various tools in good repair; an auger,
+saw, and some large nails are also to be desired, and a small parcel
+containing needles, thread, pins, scissors, etc., will be found
+indispensable. "Cleanliness is next to Godliness," and there are
+no more luxurious necessities in camp life than a piece of soap
+and a clean towel. For light it is advisable to carry a supply of
+candles, or a lantern with a can of oil. The latter is, of course,
+more bulky, and for a campaign wholly on foot is hardly to be
+recommended on this account.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Each trapper should be provided with a stout jack-knife, pocket-compass,
+and a supply of matches, a number of these being always carried on
+the person to provide for the emergencies to which the hunter is
+always subject.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+One of the party should carry a double-barrelled shot-gun and another
+a rifle, or both may be combined in a single weapon. A revolver
+is also a desirable acquisition. Purified neats-foot oil should
+be used on the fire-arms, and in lieu of this, some trappers use
+the melted fat of the grouse for the same purpose. A good supply
+of fishing tackle is almost indispensable, and
+<a name="page_228"><span class="page">Page 228</span></a>
+with these valuable equipments the young trapper may defy the wilderness
+with all its hazards. With his traps, gun and rod, together with his
+store of provisions, he may look forward to a larder well stocked
+and may calculate on an appetite which will do it justice.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The list of portable provisions and cooking utensils best adapted
+for a campaign are given under their proper title, and will be
+found to cover all the wants of the most fastidious. The stove
+is the most cumbersome article, but trappers generally dispense
+with its use altogether, looking at it rather in the light of a
+luxury as well as a nuisance. The open camp fire will answer every
+purpose, both for cooking and for comfort in cold weather.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For clothing it is desirable to carry at least two suits, in order
+to have a "change." They should be of woolen, and from the
+<i>hunter's</i> point of view, should be of a sombre shade, so as
+to be as inconspicuous as possible. The use of high-top boots is
+to be deprecated, as they are tiresome and unwieldy. Short boots,
+with thick, iron-pegged soles, are generally preferred by trappers,
+and in order to render them soft, pliable, and waterproof they
+may be soaked or smeared with a hot mixture, composed of one part
+rosin, two parts beeswax, and three parts tallow. Simple tallow, or
+even the fat of the deer, is sometimes used for the same purpose.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Calculating on a successful campaign, a supply of board-stretchers,
+<a href="#page_273">page 273</a>, will be needed for the curing of
+the skins, and if our adventurous enthusiasts should extend their
+experience along into the winter, the toboggan and snow-shoes will
+come into good use for convenient winter travel.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trapping season properly commences in October and ends in April.
+The pelts of fur bearing animals are in their best condition during
+this time, and in the winter are in their prime. The various modes
+of setting and baiting traps for all our leading animals are clearly
+set forth in another part of this volume. And in the accompanying
+engravings will be found life like representations of each species.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In a trapping campaign it is an excellent plan to select a central
+point for the home shanty, extending the trapping lines in several
+directions therefrom, following the borders of the lakes or streams
+for the otter, beaver, mink and muskrat; and setting a few lines
+inland for the capture of martens, racoons, foxes, etc.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For an amateur campaign this a most excellent and convenient
+<a name="page_229"><span class="page">Page 229</span></a>
+arrangement, the lines may extend all the way from one to five miles
+each, and connect at their edges, the whole ground plan resembling the
+form of a wheel, the shanty corresponding to the hub, and the trapping
+lines the spokes, the tire representing the circuit connecting the
+various lines. Where the latter extend over many miles it is well
+to construct bark shanties at the limits. Let each trapper take
+a certain "spoke," and follow it to its terminus, returning on the
+adjacent line. On his arrival at the shanty he should immediately
+set to work skinning the animals taken, and stretching their furs.
+Full directions for skinning the various game are given under their
+respective titles, and the curing of skins is treated in detail
+in another chapter of this work. We also present a table of the
+comparative values of the various American furs at the present
+date of publication. Of course these values are constantly varying,
+but the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values
+of common and scarce furs. Great care should always be used in
+removing the skins from the various animals, as the final value
+of the fur much depends upon this. They should not be removed from
+the stretchers until perfectly dry, and should then be laid in a
+cool, airy place. When near a village or settlement it is advisable
+to send "into town" every few days with a batch of furs for safe
+keeping, and particularly so when the skins are valuable, and in
+cases where the home shanty is left unguarded. The value of prime
+otter or mink pelt is a matter of no small importance, and a good
+trapping ground furnishes a rare field for light fingered prowlers
+who are well posted on the market price of raw furs, and who are
+constantly on the lookout for such prizes, either in the shape
+of the prepared skin, or on the back of the live animal. These
+"trap robbers," or poachers, are the pests of trappers, and many
+have learned from dear experience the advisability of placing their
+choice furs beyond the reach of the marauders.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The hut in which they are stored is nearly always kept guarded,
+and, where this is impracticable, the skins are hid in hollow trees,
+or carried to some near settlement, as we have already mentioned.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If the campaign proves successful and promises well for another
+season, it is customary to hide the traps beneath rocks, thus saving
+the labor of a second transportation. In order to keep the traps
+from rusting, it is well to cover them with oat or buckwheat chaff.
+The rock should be first rolled from its resting place, and a bed
+of the chaff made beneath it, in which the traps should be covered,
+the rock being afterwards replaced. In a few such
+<a name="page_230"><span class="page">Page 230</span></a>
+places all the traps may be effectually stored away, and they will
+be found in prime order and ready for business on the following
+season.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the months of September and October trappers are much annoyed
+by gnats and mosquitoes, and, as a preventive against the attacks
+of these pests, we give on <a href="#page_255">page 255</a> some
+valuable receipts, which have stood the test of time, and are still
+the most effective remedies. The "smudge," consisting of a smouldering
+pile of birch bark is also used where the insects infest the tents
+or shanties by night. The bark should be dry, and should not be
+allowed to blaze. The smudge is generally placed at the entrance
+of the tent, and the trapper may then take his choice between smoke
+or mosquitoes, both cannot exist together, and a tent infested
+with the blood-thirsty pests may be effectually cleared in a few
+minutes by the introduction of smoking brand for a few seconds. If
+the tent is now closely buttoned and the smudge kept burning directly
+outside, there will be no further trouble with the mosquitoes, and
+the odor of the smoke is, after all, but a slight annoyance and
+to some is even enjoyable after being once accustomed to it. When
+the home shanty is infested, it may be cleared in the same way,
+and by the aid of two or more smudges on the windward side may be
+kept free from the insects.
+</p>
+
+<h4>FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The professional trapper on a campaign depends much upon his traps
+for his food, and often entirely contents himself with the subsistence
+thus gained. We <i>encourage</i> and <i>believe</i> in "roughing
+it" to a certain extent, but not to that limit to which it is often
+carried by many professional "followers of the trap" throughout
+our country. The course of diet to which these individuals subject
+themselves, would often do better credit to a half civilized barbarian
+than to an enlightened white man, and when it comes to starting
+on a campaign with no provision for food excepting a few traps,
+a gun, and a box of matches, and relying on a chance chip for a
+frying-pan, he would rather be "counted out." In ordinary cases we
+see no necessity for such deprivation, and, on the other hand, we
+decry the idea of transporting a whole kitchen and larder into the
+woods. There is a happy medium between the two extremes, whereby a
+light amount of luggage in the shape of cooking utensils and closely
+packed portable food, may render the wild life of the trapper very
+cozy and comfortable, and his
+<a name="page_231"><span class="page">Page 231</span></a>
+meals a source of enjoyment, instead of a fulfilment of physical
+duty. What with the stock of traps, necessary tools, blankets,
+etc., the trapper's burden is bound to be pretty heavy, and it
+becomes necessary to select such food for transportation as shall
+combine the greatest amount of nutriment and the least possible
+weight, and to confine the utensils to those absolutely necessary
+for decent cooking.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The trapper's culinary outfit may then be reduced to the following
+items, and in them he will find a sufficiency for very passable
+living.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+One of the most nutritious and desirable articles of food consists
+of fine sifted Indian meal; and it is the only substantial article
+of diet which many trappers will deign to carry at all.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By some it is mixed with twice its quantity of wheat flour, and
+is thus used in the preparation of quite a variety of palatable
+dishes. One or two pounds of salt pork will also be found a valuable
+addition; boxes of pepper and salt and soda should also be carried.
+With these simple provisions alone, relying on his gun, traps and
+fishing tackle for animal food, the young trapper may rely on three
+enjoyable meals a day, if he is anything of a cook. Pork fritters
+are not to be despised, even at a hotel table; and with the above
+they can be made to suit the palate of the most fastidious.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Indian meal is a valuable accessory with cooks generally, and to
+the trapper it often becomes his great "staff of life." If our
+young enthusiast desires to try his hand at roughing it to the
+fullest extent, compatible with common sense and the strength of an
+ordinary physical constitution, he may endeavor to content himself
+with the above portable rations; but with anything less it becomes
+
+<span style="float: right; width: 185px;">
+  <img src="images/fig125.jpg" width="185" height="228" alt="Figure 125">
+</span>
+
+too much like starvation to arouse our enthusiasm. For cooking
+utensils, a small frying-pan and a deep tin basin are indispensable;
+and a drinking cup is also to be desired. The kind known as the
+telescope cup, constructed in three parts, which close within each
+other, when not in use, possesses great advantages on account of
+its portability. With these one can get along pretty decently.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The pork fritters already mentioned form a favorite dish with trappers
+generally, and can be made in the following
+<a name="page_232"><span class="page">Page 232</span></a>
+way; have at hand a thick batter of the Indian meal and flour;
+cut a few slices of the pork, and fry them in the frying-pan until
+the fat is tried out; cut a few more slices of the pork; dip them
+in the batter and drop them in the bubbling fat, seasoning with
+salt and pepper; cook until light brown and eat while hot. The
+question now arises, "What shall we eat them with?" If you are
+"roughing it," such luxuries as plates and knifes and forks are
+surely out of the question; and you must content yourself with
+a pair of chop sticks "a la Chinee," or make your jackknife do
+double purpose, using a flat chip or stone as a plate. A small
+tin plate may be added to the list of utensils if desired, but
+we are now confining ourselves to the "lowest limit" of absolute
+necessities. That wholesome dish known as "boiled mush," may come
+under the above bill of fare; and fried mush is an old stand-by
+to the rough and ready trapper. In the first case the Indian meal
+is slowly boiled for one hour, and then seasoned as eaten. It is
+then allowed to cool, and is cut in slices and fried in fat. Indian
+meal cakes are easily made by dropping a quantity of the hot mush
+in the frying-pan, having previously stirred in a small quantity
+of soda, and turning it as soon as the lower side is browned. A
+Johnny cake thus made is always appetizing, and with the addition
+of a little sugar, it becomes a positive luxury. Hoe cakes, so
+much relished by many, can be made by mixing up a quantity into
+a thick mass, adding a little soda. Bake in the fire on a chip or
+flat stone. The trapper's ground is generally in the neighborhood
+of lakes or streams, and fresh fish are always to be had. They
+may be cooked in a manner which would tempt a city epicure; and
+when it comes to the cooking of a fresh brook trout, neither a
+Prof. Blot nor a Delmonico can compete with the trapper's recipe.
+The trout is first emptied and cleaned through a hole at the neck,
+if the fish is large enough to admit of it; if not, it should be
+done by a slit up the belly. The interior should be carefully washed
+and seasoned with salt and pepper; and in the case of a large fish,
+it should be stuffed with Indian meal. Build a good fire and allow
+the wood to burn down to embers; lay the fish in the hot ashes
+and cover it with the burning coals and embers; leave it thus for
+about half an hour, more or less, in proportion to the size of the
+fish (this may be easily determined by experiment); when done,
+remove it carefully from the ashes, and peel off the skin. The
+clean pink flesh and delicious savor which now manifest themselves
+will create an appetite where none before existed. All the delicate
+<a name="page_233"><span class="page">Page 233</span></a>
+flavor and sweet juices of the fish are thus retained, and the trout
+as food is then known in its perfection.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By the ordinary method of cooking, the trout loses much of its
+original flavor by the evaporation of its juices; and although
+a delicious morsel in any event, it is never fully appreciated
+excepting after being roasted in the ashes, as above described.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The other method consists in rolling the fish in the Indian meal
+and frying it in the frying-pan with a piece of the salt pork.
+Seasoning as desired.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Partridges, ducks, quail, and other wild fowl are most delicious
+when cooked in the ashes as described for the trout. The bird should
+be drawn in the ordinary manner, and the inside washed perfectly
+clean. It should then be embedded in the hot coals and ashes, the
+feathers having been previously saturated with water. When done,
+the skin and feathers will easily peel off, and the flesh will
+be found to be wonderfully sweet, tender, and juicy. A stuffing
+of pounded crackers and minced meat of any kind, with plenty of
+seasoning, greatly improves the result, or the Indian meal may be
+used if desired. A fowl thus roasted is a rare delicacy. A partridge,
+squirrel, pigeon, woodcock, or any other game can be broiled as
+well in the woods as at home, using a couple of green-branched
+twigs for a spider or "toaster," and turning occasionally. For
+this purpose the bird should be plucked of its feathers, cleanly
+drawn and washed, and spread out by cutting down the back. Venison,
+moose, or bear meat, can be deliciously roasted in joints of several
+pounds before a good fire, using a green birch branch as a spit,
+and resting it on two logs, situated on opposite sides of the fire.
+The meat can thus be occasionally turned and propped in place by
+a small stick, sprinkling occasionally with salt and pepper. The
+above manner of making the fire is that adopted by most woodsmen.
+Two large green logs, of several feet in length, being first laid
+down at about three feet distant, between these the fire is built,
+and when a kettle is used a heavy pole is so arranged as to project
+and hold it over the fire. A cutlet of venison fried in the pan
+is delicious, and a "Johnny cake" cooked in the fat of this meat
+is a decided dainty.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With the above hints for a "rough and ready" campaign, we think
+the young trapper ought to be able to get along quite comfortably.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We will now pass on to the consideration of what the average
+<a name="page_234"><span class="page">Page 234</span></a>
+professional trapper would call "luxuries." The stock of these
+depends much upon the location of the trapping ground. If accessible
+by wagon or boat, or both, they may be carried in unlimited quantities,
+but when they are to be borne on the back of the trapper through
+a pathless wilderness of miles, the supply will, of course, have
+to be cut short. When two or three start out together it becomes
+much easier, one carrying the traps and tools; another the guns,
+cooking utensils, etc.; the third confining his luggage to the food.
+One of the most necessary requisites for a journey on foot consists
+in a knapsack or large square basket, which can be easily strapped
+to the back of the shoulders, thus leaving the hands free. Matches
+are absolutely indispensable, and a good supply should be carried.
+They should always be enclosed in a large-mouthed bottle with a
+close fitting cork, to prevent their being damaged by moisture. For
+further safety in this regard the matches may be rendered perfectly
+water-proof by dipping their ends in thin mastic or shellac varnish.
+If not at hand, this varnish can be easily made by dissolving a
+small quantity of either sort of gum in three or four times its
+bulk of alcohol. It is well to dip the whole stick in the solution,
+thereby rendering the entire match impervious to moisture. Lucifer
+matches are the best, and, when thus prepared, they may lay in
+water for hours without any injury. It is a fearful thing to find
+oneself in the wilderness, cold and hungry, and without the means
+of lighting a fire, and to prepare for such an emergency it is
+always advisable to be provided with a pocket sun glass. So long as
+the sun shines a fire is thus always to be had, either by igniting
+a small quantity of powder (which the trapper is always supposed
+to carry) or using powdered "touch wood" or "punk tinder" in its
+place. Fine scrapings from dry wood will easily ignite by the sun
+glass, and by fanning the fire and adding additional fuel it will
+soon burst into flame. In cloudy weather, and in the absence of
+matches, a fire may easily be kindled by sprinkling a small quantity
+of powder on a large flat stone, setting a percussion cap in its
+midst, and covering the whole with dry leaves. A smart strike on
+the cap with a hammer will have the desired result, and by heaping
+additional fuel on the blazing leaves the fire soon reaches large
+proportions. If the young trapper should ever be so unfortunate
+as to find himself in the wild woods, chilled and hungry, minus
+matches, powder, caps, and sun glass, he may as a last resort try
+the following: Scrape some lint or cotton from some portion of
+the garment, or some
+<a name="page_235"><span class="page">Page 235</span></a>
+tinder from a dry stick, and lay it on the surface of some rough
+rock, white quartz rock if it can be found. Next procure a fragment
+of the same stone, or a piece of steel from some one of the traps,
+and strike its edge sharply, and with a skipping stroke into the
+further side of the tinder, the direction being such as will send
+the sparks thus produced into the inflammable material. Continue
+this operation until the tinder ignites. By now gently fanning
+the smoking mass it may easily be coaxed into flame. At least so
+our Adirondack guide told us last summer. The author has never
+had occasion to test the merits of the plan for himself, and has
+no special desire of being so placed, as that his life will hang
+upon its success. He presents it therefore as a mere suggestion
+without endorsing its practicability, and would rather prefer matches
+in the long run. The open fire generally serves both for purposes
+of warmth and cooking, but by many, a camp stove is considered a
+great improvement. Stoves of this character, and for this especial
+purpose, are in the market. They are small and portable, with pipe
+and furniture, all of which pack away closely into the interior.
+A fire is easily started in one of these stoves, and, by closing
+the damper, a slow fire may be kept up through the night. The stove
+is generally set up at the entrance of the tent, the pipe passing
+through the top, in a hole near the ridge pole. The furniture consists
+of three pots or kettles, which pack easily into each other, and
+when in the stove still leave ample room for a considerable amount
+of provisions.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The kettles are made of block-tin, and frying-pans also, as these
+are much more light and portable than those made of iron. The lid
+may be used as a plate, and for this purpose the handle consists
+of an iron ring, which will fold flat against the surface when
+inverted. Knives, forks, and spoons are easily stowed away in the
+stove or knapsack, and a coffee-pot should always be carried. There
+is a knife known as the combination camp-knife, which is much used
+by hunters and trappers, and contains a spoon, fork, knife, and
+various other useful appendages, in a most compact form. It costs
+from one to two dollars.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For provisions, potatoes will be found excellent, both on account
+of their portability and the variety of ways in which they may be
+served. They are healthy and nutritions, and always palatable.
+Beans are also very desirable for the same reasons. Wheat flour will
+form a valuable addition to the trapper's larder, and particularly
+so, if the "self-raising" kind can be had. This
+<a name="page_236"><span class="page">Page 236</span></a>
+flour contains all the required ingredients for light bread and
+biscuit, and is sold by grocers generally, in packages of various
+sizes, with accompanying recipes. We strongly recommend it where
+a stove is employed; and to anyone who is fond of biscuit, bread,
+or pancakes, it will be appreciated. Butter, lard, sugar, salt,
+pepper and mustard are valuable accessories, and curry-powder,
+olive oil, and vinegar will often be found useful. Olive oil is
+often used by camping parties with the curry powder, and also as
+a substitute for lard in the frying-pan. Pork, Indian meal and
+crackers, wheaten grits, rice, and oat-meal are desirable, and
+coffee and tea are great luxuries. For soups, Liebig's extract of
+beef is a most valuable article, and with the addition of other
+ingredients, vegetables or meat, the result is a most delicious and
+nutritious dish. This extract is obtainable at almost any grocer's,
+and full directions and recipes accompany each jar. Canned vegetables
+are much to be desired on account of their portability, and are
+never so delicious as when cooked over a camp fire. Lemonade is
+always a luscious beverage, but never so much so as to a thirsty
+trapper. A few lemons are easily carried and will repay the trouble.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+All provisions, such as meal, flour, sugar, salt, crackers, and the
+like, should be enclosed in water-proof canvas bags, and labelled.
+The bags may be rendered water-proof either by painting, (in which
+case no <i>lead</i> or arsenic paints should be used) or by dipping
+in the preparation described on <a href="#page_247">page 247</a>.
+If these are not used, a rubber blanket, <a href="#page_250">page
+250</a>, may be substituted, the eatables being carefully wrapped
+therein, when not in use. The butter and lard should be put up
+in air-tight jars, and should be kept in a cool place, either on
+the ground in a shady spot, or in some cool spring.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For a campaign on foot, the knapsack, or shoulder-basket, already
+alluded to on <a href="#page_234">page 234</a>, is an indispensable
+article. It should be quite large and roomy, say fifteen inches in
+depth and ten by twelve inches in its other dimensions. The material
+should be canvas, rubber cloth, or wicker, and, in any case, the
+opening at the top should have a water-proof covering extending
+well over the sides. The straps may consist of old suspender bands,
+fastened crosswise on the broad side of the bag. The capacity of
+such a knapsack is surprising, and the actual weight of luggage
+seems half reduced when thus carried on the shoulders. When three
+or four trappers start together, which is the usual custom, and
+each is provided with such a shoulder basket, the luggage can be
+thus divided, and the load for each individual much lightened.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_237"><span class="page">Page 237</span></a>
+Venison is the trapper's favorite food, and in mild weather it
+sometimes happens that the overplus of meat becomes tainted before
+it can be eaten. To overcome this difficulty the following process
+is resorted to, for the preservation of the meat, and the result
+is the well-known and high-priced "jerked venison" of our markets.
+The flesh is first cut into small, thin strips, all the meat being
+picked off from the bones. The pieces are then placed on the inside
+of the hide of the animal and thoroughly mixed with salt, a pint
+and a half being generally sufficient. The salt being well worked
+in, the fragments should be carefully wrapped in the hide, and
+suffered to remain in this condition for two or three hours. The
+meat is then ready to be dried,&mdash;"jerked."
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Four forked poles should be first driven into the ground, about
+six feet apart, in the form of a square, the forks being four feet
+above ground. Lay two poles of green wood across the forks on the
+two opposite sides of the square, and cover the space between them
+by other poles laid across them, an inch or two inches apart. On
+to this mammoth gridiron the strips of flesh should now be spread,
+and a steady fire of birch or other clean, fresh wood should be
+kept steadily burning beneath for about twenty-four hours. At the
+end of this time the meat will have reduced much in size and weight.
+The salt will have been thoroughly <i>dried in</i>, and the flesh so
+prepared may be kept for almost any length of time. In its present
+condition it is excellent eating, and it is always at hand for
+frying, and may be cooked in a variety of ways. Moose and bear meat
+may be dried in a similar manner, using a proportionate amount of
+salt. Fish may also be prepared in the same way, for which purpose
+they should be scaled as usual and afterward spread open by cutting
+down the back, the bone being removed. We cordially recommend this
+method of preparing both flesh and fish, and no trapper's "recipe
+book" is complete without it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In localities where wolves abound, the nocturnal invasions of these
+creatures often render the keeping of fresh meat a very difficult
+task, and in this connection it may be well to give directions
+for the preservation of game desired to be used either as fresh
+meat or for purposes of drying.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The spring-pole is most commonly and successfully used.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Select some stout sapling, bend it down, and cut off a limb several
+feet from the ground. Hang the meat in the crotch thus formed, and
+allow the tree to swing back. By dividing the meat into several
+parts it may thus all be protected. When
+<a name="page_238"><span class="page">Page 238</span></a>
+a moose or deer is killed at such a time or place, or under such
+circumstances as render its immediate dressing impossible, its
+carcass may be defended against mutilation by another means. Wolves
+are naturally sly and sagacious, and have a wholesome fear of a
+trap. Any unnatural arrangement of logs and stones immediately
+excites their suspicion, and the trapper takes advantage of this
+wary peculiarity to good purpose. Laying his dead game near some
+fallen tree or old log he strews a few branches over the carcass,
+or perhaps rests a log over it. Sometimes he hangs the entrails of
+the animal over the body, on a forked stick, anyone of which devices
+is said to have the desired result. The wolverine is another pest to
+the trapper, and not being so sly as the wolf, never hesitates to
+pounce upon any flesh within its reach. The former method, therefore,
+is always the safest plan for absolute protection against all animals.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The moose and deer are the favorite food of trappers in the country
+where these animals abound, and the trappers of the Far West find
+in the flesh of the Moufflon, or Rocky Mountain sheep, a delicacy
+which they consider superior to the finest venison. The prong-horn
+antelope of the Western plains is another favorite food-animal
+with hunters, and the various "small game," such as squirrels,
+rabbits, woodchucks, etc., are by no means to be despised. The
+author once knew a trapper who was loud in his praises of "skunk
+meat" for food, and many hunters can testify to its agreeable flavor
+when properly dressed and cooked. It is hard, to be sure, to getup
+much enthusiasm over a skunk, dead or alive, but where other food
+is not to be had we would discourage the young trapper from being
+too fastidious.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The buffalo, or bison, is the great resource of the trappers of the
+West. The tongue, tenderloin and brisket are generally preferred,
+but all the meat is eatable. The flesh of the cow is best. It much
+resembles beef, but has a more gamey flavor. In winged game there
+is no food superior to the flesh of the grouse, and the great number
+of the species and wide range of territory which they inhabit render
+them the universal food game of trappers throughout the world. The
+ruffed grouse or partridge, pinnated grouse or prairie hen, spruce
+or Canada grouse, and the cock-of-the-plains or sage cock, are
+familiar American examples of the family, and their near relatives,
+the ptarmigans, afford a valuable source of food to the trappers
+and hunters, as well as general inhabitants of our northern cold
+countries. Here they are known as "snow grouse," and there are
+several species.
+<a name="page_239"><span class="page">Page 239</span></a>
+The willow ptarmigan is the most common, and in Rome localities exists
+in almost incredible numbers. Flocks numbering several thousand have
+been frequently seen by travellers in the Hudson's Bay territory;
+and the surface of the snow in a desirable feeding ground, is often
+completely covered by the birds, in quest of the willow tops, which
+form their chief food during the winter season. The Indians and
+natives secure the birds in large numbers, by the trap described
+on <a href="#page_75">page 75</a>, and Hearne, the traveller and
+explorer of the Hudson's Bay region, asserts that he has known
+over three hundred to be thus caught in a single morning, by three
+persons.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Of water fowl, ducks and geese are especially to be recommended. The
+former are hunted with decoys and boats, and are sometimes trapped,
+as described on <a href="#page_94">pages 94</a>. The species are
+distinguished as sea ducks and river or inland ducks. The latter
+are considered the most desirable for food, being more delicate and
+less gamey in flavor than the salt-water, or fish-eating varieties.
+The mallard, teal, muscovy, widgeon, and wood-chuck are familiar
+species of the inland birds, and the merganser and canvass-back
+are the two most esteemed salt-water varieties. Wild geese are
+common throughout North America, and may be seen either in the
+early spring or late fall migrating in immense numbers. They form
+a staple article of food in many parts of British America, and
+great numbers are salted down for winter supply. They are trapped
+in large numbers, as described on <a href="#page_75">page 75</a>,
+and are hunted with tame geese as decoys, the hunter being secreted
+behind a screen or covert, and attracting the game by imitating
+their cries.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Fish form an agreeable change to the trapper's diet, and may be
+caught by the hook and line, or by spearing. The latter method
+requires considerable practice and skill, but is very successful.
+The Indians of the North are great experts in the use of the spear,
+and the number of salmon taken by them annually is enormous. The
+spear generally consists of five or six steel prongs an inch apart
+and barbed at the ends. It is mounted on a heavy handle, and when it
+strikes its victim its grip is sure death. The spearing is generally
+performed either at the spawning beds or at the falls.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Salmon trout are generally speared in the night time by boat, the
+spawning ground, generally a gravel bank near the shore, being
+the seat of operations. A fire of pitch pine and birch bark is
+ignited on an elevated "jack" in the bow of the boat, the "jack"
+consisting of an ox-muzzle, or other concave wire contrivance
+<a name="page_240"><span class="page">Page 240</span></a>
+which will hold the inflammable materials. This is secured to a
+post or crotched stick, as a prop, and the spearman stands near
+the burning mass with his spear in readiness. As his companion in
+the stern of the boat paddles, he keenly watches for his victim,
+and, seeing his opportunity, makes his lunge and lands his prize.
+To become a successful spearman requires much practice and no small
+degree of skill. To retain one's balance, acquire quickness of stroke,
+and withal to regulate the aim so as to allow for the refraction of
+the light in the water, all tend to invest the sport with a degree
+of skill which only experience can master.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Fishing through the ice in winter is a rare sport, and large numbers
+of brook and lake trout are often taken at this season by cutting
+holes through the ice and fishing with hook and line. The baits
+commonly used consist of cow's udder or hog's liver, these being
+especially preferred on account of their toughness. Angle worms
+are also excellent, and any kind of raw meat may be used if other
+bait is not to be had.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is asserted by some sportsmen that bait scented with assaf&oelig;tida
+is much more attractive to the fish, and will insure a capture
+which would otherwise be impossible. Sweet cicily and anise are
+also used for the same purpose. When the trout bite lively, fishing
+through the ice is a most exciting sport, and by the aid of "tip-ups"
+a single person may command a great number of lines. The winter
+resort of the brook trout is in water two or three feet deep, over
+sandy beds. The lake trout frequent deeper water.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The holes are made in the ice at intervals of one or two rods, and
+a line set in each hole.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The "tip-up" consists of a narrow strip of lath or shingle, with
+a hole bored through it near the large end. At this end the line
+is attached, and the hook thrown in the water. A branch is now
+inserted through the aperture, and its ends are rested across the
+opening in the ice. No sooner does the fish bite than the long
+end tips straight in the air, and thus betrays its captive. Ten
+or fifteen of these contrivances will often keep one pretty busy,
+and do good service. By some an ordinary cut fish pole, arranged on
+a crotch, is used instead of the tip-ups just described. Pickerel
+fishing through the ice is a favorite winter sport in many localities.
+The line should be about thirty feet in length, and the bait should
+consist of a small, live fish, hooked through the back. A small cork
+float should be attached to the line at such a distance as will keep
+<a name="page_241"><span class="page">Page 241</span></a>
+the bait above the bottom, and the superfluous line should be laid
+in a loose coil near the hole, the end being attached to a small
+switch or bush, stuck up in the ice near by. The pickerel, on taking
+the bait, should be allowed to play out the whole line before being
+pulled in, as the fish requires this time to fully swallow his
+prey, after which the hook is sure to hold him firmly. Twenty or
+thirty lines may thus be attended at once, the bush or twig acting
+the part of a tip-up, or sentinel.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Pickerel spearing is another successful mode of capture during
+the winter months. A large hole is made in the ice, in about two
+feet of water, and covered by a spacious box or board hut, six or
+seven feet square, and provided with a door. The spearman, concealed
+within, lowers his bait, consisting of an artificial fish with
+silver fins, made especially for the purpose. This he continually
+twirls in the water, and as the pickerel approaches the bait, he
+gradually raises it, until the fish is decoyed nearly to the surface
+of the water, when a quick stroke of the spear secures his victim,
+and the line is again lowered. This is capital sport, and is very
+successful.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There is a very curious device for fishing by night commonly employed
+by some anglers, and sometimes known as the "lantern, or fish trap."
+Many kinds of fish are attracted by a light, but to use a light
+as a bait, submerged beneath the water, certainly seems odd. It
+may be done, however, in the following way: The "fish lantern"
+used for this purpose consists of a bottle containing a solution
+of phosphorus in sweet oil. Procure a piece of the stick phosphorus
+the size of a small cherry, and submerging in a saucer of water,
+proceed to cut it into small pieces. Have in readiness a three-ounce
+white glass bottle half filled with sweet oil. Drop the pieces of
+phosphorus into the oil and cork the bottle tightly. In the space
+of a few hours the phosphorus will have been completely dissolved,
+and the contents of the bottle will present a thick, luminous fluid,
+which in a dark room, will afford considerable light. This is the
+fish lantern. To use it, the cork is firmly inserted and the bottle,
+with fish line attached, is lowered through the hole in the ice.
+The water becomes luminous for several feet around, and the unusual
+brightness attracts the fish in large numbers. They are plainly,
+discernible, and are readily dispatched with the spear, or captured
+by a circular net, sunk on the bottom, beneath the luminous bait.
+This is certainly an odd way of catching fish, but it is often
+a very efficacious method.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It has not been our intention to enter very extensively into
+<a name="page_242"><span class="page">Page 242</span></a>
+the subject of fishing, but only to give such hints as will be
+found especially useful and practical to the trapper in relation
+to his food. The above methods, together with those of trolling
+and fly-fishing, are those most commonly employed by trappers and
+hunters generally, and we commend them to the amateur.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We give, on <a href="#page_120">page 120</a>, a unique device for
+the capture of fish, which might also be found useful.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With the above general remarks on the campaign, together with what
+follows in the detailed articles on the subject, we think that the
+ground will have been completely covered. Every possible requirement
+has been anticipated, and every ordinary emergency foreseen and
+provided against.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The life of the professional trapper is a life of hardship and
+severe exposure, and a man not only requires considerable courage,
+but also great bodily vigor, in order to combat successfully the
+dangers of such a wild, adventuresome existence.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The cold and the storm not only imperil his life, but he is often
+exposed to the attacks of wild beasts. A shelter, therefore, in one
+form or another, becomes a necessity while it is always a decided
+comfort, in comparison to a campaign without it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The reader will find below descriptions of the various shelters
+alluded to in other parts of this work, and used by trappers throughout
+the land.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The most substantial of these is the log shanty, commonly known among
+trappers as the "home shanty," on account of its being constructed
+as the only permanent shelter on the trapping line.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is used as a "home," a place of rendezvous, and a storehouse
+for provisions, furs, and other necessities and valuables. Other
+temporary shelters, known as bark shanties, are also constructed
+along the trapping lines at intervals of five or ten miles, as
+resting places. These we describe under the proper title.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Although, to the amateur trapper, the log shanty is not likely
+to become a necessity, we will nevertheless describe its mode of
+construction, in order to satisfy our more earnest and adventurous
+readers, who aspire to a full taste of wild life.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of such a shanty.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<a name="page_243"><span class="page">Page 243</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig126.jpg" width="490" height="502"
+ alt="THE HOME SHANTY."><br />
+THE HOME SHANTY.
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_244"><span class="page">Page 244</span></a>
+It may be constructed of any size, but one of about twelve by ten
+feet will be found large enough for ordinary purposes. Select straight
+logs, about eight inches in diameter. The whole number required
+will be thirty-six. Of these one-half should be twelve feet in
+length and the other ten. These should now be built up in the square
+form, on a level piece of ground, laying the ends of the logs over
+each other, and securing them by notches at the corners, so deep as
+to allow the edges of the logs to meet. Lay two short logs first,
+and continue building until all the thirty-six logs are used, and
+we will now have four symmetrical sides about six feet in height.
+The place for the door should now be selected. The uppermost log
+should form its upper outline, and the two sides should be cleanly
+and straightly cut with a crosscut saw. The window openings, one or
+more, may next be cut, commencing beneath the second log from the
+top, and taking in three beneath it. Replace the logs above, and
+on the ends of those thus cut, both in windows and doors, proceed
+to spike a heavy plank, driving two nails into each log, about
+five inches apart, one above the other. This will hold them firmly
+in place, and offer a close-fitting jam for the door, and neat
+receptacle for the window sashes, which latter may now be put in
+after the ordinary manner.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The gable ends should next be built upon the smaller sides of the
+hut. Commence by laying a long log (notched as before) across the
+top of the frame work, and about two feet inside the edge. This
+should of course be done on both sides of the hut, after which
+they should be overlapped at the corners with logs eight feet in
+length. Next lay two more long logs, parallel with the first two,
+and about a foot inside them, notching as before. The ends of these
+should be spanned with beams eight feet in length. Two more long
+logs are next in order&mdash;let them be one foot inside the last
+two. Overlap these with beams five feet and a half in length, and
+in the exact centre of these last pieces chop notches for a heavy
+log for a ridge pole. The gable outline, direct from the ridge
+pole to the eaves, should now be cut off by the aid of a sharp
+axe. This may be done either while the pieces are in position, or
+the line may be marked with a piece of chalk, and the logs taken
+down in order to accomplish it. The roof is now required. This
+should consist either of strips of bark or the rounded sides of
+logs split off and hollowed into troughs. The latter method is
+preferable, on account of its greater strength and durability,
+but the bark will answer the purpose very well, and is much more
+easily obtained. The manner of adjusting the roof pieces is clearly
+shown in our
+<a name="page_245"><span class="page">Page 245</span></a>
+illustration. The first row is laid on with the hollow side up,
+securing them at top and bottom by nails driven through each into
+the ridge pole and eaves-log, care being taken that one of these
+pieces projects well over the gable, on both ends of the hut. These
+pieces are now overlapped by the second row, and with the addition
+of the large piece which covers them all at the ridge pole, the
+roof is complete, and will stand a heavy rain with little or no
+leaking. The crevices should now be stopped with moss, dried grass
+or clay, after which the log cabin is complete. When the bark roof
+is made, additional poles may be inserted beneath as props. They
+should be three or four inches in diameter, and run parallel with
+the ridge pole, at intervals on the slope, notches being cut to
+secure them.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Our engraving represents a chimney, which may be constructed if
+desired, but the necessity of this may be done away with by using
+a small camp stove, and making a small opening in the gable end
+of the hut for the passage of the pipe. If it stove should not
+be at hand, and our amateur should decide to "rough it" to the
+full extent, he may build his fire-place and chimney as follows:
+It will be necessary to cut away an opening in the logs at the
+gable end, as was done for the door and windows. This should be
+about three feet square, and the fire place should be built of
+stone and clay, or cement, to fill the opening, and project inside
+the hut.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The chimney may then be built up outside in the same manner,
+sufficiently high to overtop the gables.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Inside the hut overhead will be found abundant room for the hanging
+of the skins, and any number of cross-poles may be rested across
+the beams. There are facilities for the swinging of a hammock,
+if desired, and, in fact, a hut constructed like the foregoing
+is a perfect one in its way. There are other methods of building
+a log cabin, but we will content ourselves with what we consider
+the <i>best</i> way of all, and pass on to the
+</p>
+
+<h4>BARK SHANTY.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This is made by first driving into the ground two forked poles
+seven or eight feet in height and stout enough to sustain a ridge
+pole of moderate size. Against this ridge pole other poles should
+be rested at intervals of two feet, and sloping to the angle of
+forty-five degrees. The frame-work thus formed should now be covered
+with bark, commencing at the ground and allowing the edge of each
+piece to overlap the one beneath
+<a name="page_246"><span class="page">Page 246</span></a>
+after the manner of shingles, in order to shed the rain in case
+of storm. Spruce or birch bark are excellent for this purpose,
+and the pieces may be secured with nails, and kept flat by the
+weight of another series of poles rested against them. The sides
+of the shelter should be treated similarly, the front being usually
+left open to face the fire, which the trapper generally builds a
+few feet distant. In constructing a bark shanty, it is well to
+select some spot protected from the wind, close to the foot of a
+mountain or in the midst of trees, always letting the open side
+face the direction most sheltered.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If desired, the front can be enclosed after the manner of the sides
+and top, but this is not required where the fire is used.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This style of shelter is represented in our page title to this section,
+and certainly looks very comfortable.
+</p>
+
+<h4>TENTS.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Shanties like the foregoing are in general use among the old veteran
+trappers of all countries, and even to the amateur there is a charm
+in a shelter constructed from the rude materials of the woods which
+the portable tents do not possess.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Tents, however, are much used both by professionals and amateurs,
+and are indeed valuable acquisitions to the trapper's outfit, and
+where time is valuable, do away with the labor which the construction
+of a hut or shanty involves.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Tents are of several kinds. Those most commonly used by the trapper
+are the house-tent, fly-tent, and half-tent, or shelter-tent.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The first of these is made for prop-poles and a ridge pole, closed
+on one end and buttoning up at the other. The sides are perpendicular
+for two or three feet, before the slope commences, and the stay-ropes
+are fastened to the eaves.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The fly-tent is generally a large, square piece of canvas, with
+ropes extending from opposite sides. This is thrown over a ridge
+pole, or over a rope extending between two trees, and the sides
+are held to the proper slope by tightening and pegging the side
+ropes to the ground. Fly-tents are also made with ends, which can
+be lowered, and the whole tent may be pegged close to the ground.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The shelter-tent, when erected, resembles, in general shape, the
+bark shanty already described. It consists of a strip of canvas,
+having each end cut off to a point. The tent is pitched over three
+slanting poles, and the ends are brought down and securely pegged.
+This is clearly shown in our illustration.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_247"><span class="page">Page 247</span></a>
+We do not propose giving any extended directions for making tents,
+as they are a staple article of trade, and, as a general thing, can
+be bought for a figure which would render their domestic manufacture
+of little saving or profit. The shelter-tent, however, is so useful
+an affair, and withal so very simple made, that we will give a
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 475px;">
+  <img src="images/fig127.jpg" width="475" height="386" alt="Figure 127">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+few directions in regard to its manufacture. It should be made
+from stout <i>cotton drilling</i>, or very heavy sheeting. Let the
+piece be about thirteen feet in length by six in width. Each end
+of the piece should now be cut to a rectangular point, commencing
+to cut at a distance of three feet from each corner. In order to
+render the cloth waterproof, it should now be dipped in a pail
+containing a solution of equal parts of alum and sugar of lead, a
+couple of handfuls of each, in tepid water. It should be allowed to
+remain several minutes in soak, being dipped and turned occasionally,
+after which it should be spread out to dry. This treatment not
+only renders the cloth impervious to rain, but the alum tends to
+make it fire-proof also. A spark from the fire falling upon a tent
+thus prepared, will often rest upon the cloth until it goes out,
+without doing the slightest damage.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_248"><span class="page">Page 248</span></a>
+The manner of pitching the tent has already been alluded to, and
+is clear from our illustration. The poles should be three or four
+in number, and seven feet in length, inserted in the ground at the
+angle denoted. The two outside poles should be seven feet apart,
+and the intermediate ones equally disposed. The tent piece should
+now be laid over the poles, and the ends brought down and pegged
+to the ground at the apex, and rear corners of each side through
+loops, which should have been previously attached to these parts.
+A tent, thus arranged, affords a safe shelter from the wind or
+a moderate storm, and with a bright fire in front, is warm and
+comfortable.
+</p>
+
+<h4>BEDS AND BEDDING.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Many a trapper does away with these commodities, merely rolling
+himself in a blanket and using his arm for a pillow; but we do
+not propose to encourage or recommend any such half-way comfort as
+this, when by a very little labor a portable bed can be prepared
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 497px;">
+  <img src="images/fig128.jpg" width="497" height="272" alt="Figure v">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+on which the weary hunter can rest as serenely as if slumbering
+on the congenial softness of a hair mattress. A bed of this kind
+we illustrate, and it can be made in the following manner: Procure
+a large piece of canvas, sacking or other strong, coarse material
+six and a half feet square. If a single piece of this size cannot
+be found, several parts may he sewed together to the required
+dimensions. After which two opposite sides should be firmly stitched
+together, thus forming
+<a name="page_249"><span class="page">Page 249</span></a>
+a bottomless bag, if we may be allowed to use the expression. Two
+stout poles seven or eight feet in length and as large as the wrist
+should now be cut. Insert them through the bag, allowing the ends
+to project equally on each side. These ends should now be rested
+on two logs, one placed across each end of the canvas. In order
+to hold the poles in place notches should be cut in the logs at
+such distances as will draw the bag to its full width. The interior
+of the canvas should now be filled with dried grass, leaves, moss
+or spruce boughs, after which the bedstead and bed is complete.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The yielding elasticity of the poles and the softness of the warm
+filling in the bag, give the effect of a spring and straw mattress
+combined, lifting the sleeper above the cold, damp ground, and by
+the addition of a blanket above, insuring warmth on all sides. If
+the logs are not at hand four forked stakes may be used, driving
+them firmly into the ground at such distances as will draw the
+bag to its full width, when the poles are rested upon them. If
+by the weight of the body the forked props should tend to incline
+towards each other this trouble may be easily remedied by inserting
+short poles as braces between them. If desired a bed of this kind
+may be used as a hammock and hung in a tree without much trouble.
+It is only necessary to secure the long poles firmly at their full
+width by a stout brace pole at the ends, letting the latter be
+deeply notched at the tips in order to receive the bed supports.
+The joints should then be tightly bound with stout twine in order
+to prevent slipping, after which the bed may be hung in mid-air
+by ropes at each end, and the tired trapper may swing himself to
+sleep with perfect comfort and safety. For this purpose the ropes
+should be attached at the joints, using a loop of six feet for
+each end. In the centre of this loop a small one should be made
+by doubling the rope and winding twine about it, leaving only a
+small aperture. Through these small loops, by the aid of other
+ropes, the bed is attached to the tree. By using this precaution
+the unpleasant experience of being turned or dumped out of bed
+will be impossible. For bed clothes a woollen blanket should always
+be carried, and if convenient a large bag of thick Canton flannel
+is a most excellent acquisition.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Bags of this sort are in common use among amateur trappers, hunters
+and camping parties, and are very warm and comfortable. They should
+be nearly seven feet in length and of a "loose, easy fit." With
+one of these contrivances it is impossible to "kick the clothes
+off" and the warmth is continual instead
+<a name="page_250"><span class="page">Page 250</span></a>
+of "intermittent," and even on the bare ground it is said to be
+sufficient protection. Hammocks are also in very general use, but
+we can confidently recommend the suspended bed above described
+as decidedly preferable.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There are various kinds of hammocks in the market, from the light
+fibered silk, weighing only a few ounces, to the large corded variety
+of several pounds weight and capable of holding many persons. They
+are an established article of trade, and as the details of their
+manufacture would be of little practical use to the reader, we
+will leave them without further consideration. They can be had at
+almost any sporting emporium, at comparatively small cost.
+</p>
+
+<h4>TENT CARPETING.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We have described a most excellent contrivance for a bedstead and
+recommend its use whenever possible; but when the bed is desired
+to be made on the ground the following method is usually employed,
+by which the whole interior of the tent, hut or shanty is carpeted
+with a soft, even covering of green.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Spruce or hemlock boughs are generally used, and should be from
+the tips of the branches where the wood is not too large. Commence
+at the back part of the shelter, and lay down a row of the boughs
+with the butt of the branch towards the front. Overlap these with
+another nearer row and continue the operation, laying the evergreen
+as evenly as possible until the whole interior is smoothly covered.
+The projecting ends at the front, should now be secured by the
+weight of a medium sized log, or by a pole pegged down firmly at
+intervals. A similar log should now be laid at the back portion
+of the shelter over the tips of the boughs after which the bed
+is complete, and will be found easy and comfortable in proportion
+to the care and skill shown in its construction. A blanket should
+be thrown over the boughs before reclining to rest, as the fresh
+green gives forth considerable dampness.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If possible a rubber blanket should be used for this purpose. These
+consist of thick Canton flannel, coated on one side with Indian
+rubber, and are used with the rubber side down. They are warm and
+comfortable, and a valuable acquisition to the trapper's outfit.
+There is a thinner and cheaper variety, having equal water-proof
+qualities but which does not possess the warmth of the former.
+Either will be found useful.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+So much for beds and bedding. If the reader will now turn
+<a name="page_251"><span class="page">Page 251</span></a>
+his attention to the following section, "The Trapper's Miscellany,"
+he will find much in detail of what has only been alluded to in the
+present chapter, besides other hints of great value in reference
+to a trapping campaign.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig129.jpg" width="344" height="383" alt="Figure 129">
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<a name="page_253"><span class="page">Page 253</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig130.jpg" width="512" height="761"
+ alt="THE TRAPPERS' MISCELLANY">
+</div>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_255"><span class="page">Page 255</span></a>
+BOOK VIII.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="subtitle">THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.</p>
+
+<p><img src="images/fig131.jpg" width="111" height="245" alt="O"
+ style="float: left;">ur enthusiastic novice, as he starts out into the
+wilderness, should not be unmindful of the swarms of blood-thirsty
+flies, gnats and mosquitoes, which infest the woods in the summer
+and early autumn, and are there lying in wait for him. These often
+become a source of great annoyance to the woodsman, and more often
+a source of positive bodily suffering.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Although trapping is not generally carried on during this season,
+the preparations for the coming campaign, including the building
+of shanties, transporting of traps, etc., are generally made at
+this time, and unless some preventive is used, the persecutions of
+the mosquitoes and other winged vermin, become almost unbearable.
+</p>
+
+<h4>INSECT OINTMENTS.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+These insects seem to have a special aversion for the scent of
+pennyroyal&mdash;an herb growing commonly in sandy localities&mdash;and
+a single plant rubbed upon the face and hands will often greatly
+check their attacks.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The oil of pennyroyal is better, however, and an ointment made by
+straining one ounce of the oil into two or three ounces of pure
+melted lard, or mutton tallow, forms an excellent antidote. This
+may be carried in a little box or bottle, in the pocket, and applied
+as occasion requires. Plain mutton tallow is also a most excellent
+ointment for general use, and in the case of bruises or slight
+wounds, will give great relief.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another preparation in very common use amongst hunters and woodsmen,
+although not quite as agreeable in odor, consists of a mixture of
+common tar and sweet oil, in equal parts. By some this liniment
+is considered superior to the other, inasmuch as it also prevents
+tanning, and is beneficial to the complexion.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_256"><span class="page">Page 256</span></a>
+During the night time, the tent or shanty often becomes swarmed
+with the winged pests, and their nocturnal assaults are proverbial
+for their pertinacity and severity. Their thirst for blood overcomes
+every other instinct, and pennyroyal often ceases to have any effect.
+Our Adirondack guide, in narrating his experience with these insect
+vampires, even says that on a certain night, becoming exasperated at
+their indomitable perseverance, and, getting tired of the monotonous
+occupation of spreading ointment, he arose, lit his candle, and drove
+the creatures out of the tent. He then buttoned up the opening, and
+retired to rest. A storm came up in the night, and so completely
+had his canvas been riddled by the bills of the mosquitoes, that
+the rain poured through his tent as through a sieve.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We have heard of the man who, when pursued by hungry mosquitoes,
+took refuge beneath a large chaldron, and, by the aid of a stone,
+clinched the blood-thirsty bills as they protruded in quest of his
+life-blood, until, by the united efforts of the winged captives,
+the chaldron was lifted and wafted out of sight, as if it were a
+feather.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+One story is just as true as the other, and a summer in the Adirondack
+woods will tend to strengthen, rather than diminish, the belief in
+either.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The smoke of smouldering birch bark will effectually drive away
+the mosquitoes from the tents at night. This method is commonly
+known as "the smudge," and is more fully described in another part
+of this work.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The smell of the smoke is often unpleasant at first, but it is always
+preferable to the insect bites.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Mosquitoes are not the only vampires which infest our wooded lands.
+The "punkeys" and "midgets" can outstrip them for voracity and the
+painful character of the wound which they inflict. The "punkey,"
+or "black-fly," as it is called, is a small, black gnat, about the
+size of a garden ant, and the bite of the insect often results
+very seriously. The midget is a minute little creature, and is the
+most everlastingly sticky and exasperating pest in the catalogue
+of human torments. They fly in swarms of thousands, and go for their
+victim "en masse" and the face, hands and neck are soon covered as
+if with "hay seed." They stick where they first light, and commence
+operations immediately. All endeavors to shake them off are fruitless,
+and their combined attacks are soon most painfully realized. Their
+bites produce great redness and swelling, and the itching is most
+intolerable. Happily for the woodsman, the "smudge"
+<a name="page_257"><span class="page">Page 257</span></a>
+and pennyroyal ointment are effectual preventives against the attacks
+of both midgets and black flies, as well as mosquitoes; and no one
+who values his life or good looks should venture on a woodland
+excursion in the summer months without a supply of this latter
+commodity. In conclusion, we would remark that, to the mosquito
+the blood of the intemperate seems to have a special attraction,
+and anyone who wishes to enjoy comparative freedom from the attacks
+of these pests, should abstain from the use of alcoholic stimulants.
+It is a too prevalent idea among trappers that whiskey and rum are
+necessary adjuncts to a trapping campaign, and many a trapper would
+about as soon think of leaving his traps at home as his whisky bottle.
+This is all a mistake. Anyone who has not sufficient strength of
+constitution to withstand the hardships and exposures of a trapping
+life, without the especial aid of stimulants, should stay at home.
+We are now alluding to the <i>habitual</i> use of such stimulants.
+It is always well to be provided with a flask of whisky or brandy,
+in case of illness, but it should only be resorted to in such an
+event. For a mere chill, we recommend the use of red pepper tea. A
+simple swallow of this drink, (made simply by soaking a red pepper
+in a cup of hot water) will restore warmth much quicker than three
+
+<span style="float: right; width: 217px;">
+  <img src="images/fig132.jpg" width="217" height="330" alt="Figure 132">
+</span>
+
+times the amount of any alcoholic stimulant. It is not our purpose to
+extend into a lengthened temperance lecture, but only to discourage
+the wide-spread idea that <i>stimulants</i> are <i>necessities</i>
+in the life of the trapper. Midgets, musquitoes and punkeys delight
+over a victim with alcohol in his veins, and while to a healthy
+subject the bites are of only brief annoyance, to the intemperate
+they often result in painful, obstinate sores.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In addition to the various ointments used, it is well to be provided
+with a head-net, such as we illustrate. Nets of this kind are specially
+made for sportsmen, and consist of a spiral wire framework, covered
+with mosquito netting, and of such a size to slip easily on the
+head.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_258"><span class="page">Page 258</span></a>
+They are easily made, as our engraving would indicate.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A netting attachment for the hat is also an acquisition, especially
+in open woods, free from overhanging branches or dense thickets.
+Such a netting may be secured to the edge of the hat brim, and
+gathered with an elastic at the lower edge. This elastic will close
+snugly around the neck when in use, and at other times may be drawn
+above the brim and allowed to rest on top of the crown.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The portable hat brim, which we illustrate, is an article of trade
+in common use among sportsmen, and particularly the angler. Our
+engraving (<i>a</i>) shows the article separate. It is made of
+cloth, and is kept in its circular shape by a steel spring band
+at the circumference, between the two sides. It may be attached
+
+<span style="float: left; clear: left; width: 255px;">
+  <img src="images/fig133.jpg" width="255" height="286" alt="Figure 133">
+</span>
+
+to any hat, and will act as a most effectual shelter to the rays
+of a hot sun.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The netting above alluded to may be attached to such a brim, and
+applied to the edge of the hat when desired. This is shown at
+(<i>b</i>), which also indicates the manner of adjustment of the
+brim. Such a brim will often do good service, and may be obtained
+at almost any sporting emporium at trifling cost. It is portable
+in every sense of the word, being easily bent and packed away in
+the pocket.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image" style="clear: left;">
+<img src="images/fig134.jpg" width="292" height="216" alt="Figure 134">
+</div>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_259"><span class="page">Page 259</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig135.jpg" width="181" height="754" alt="Figure 135"
+ style="float: right; clear: right;">
+BOAT BUILDING.
+</h3>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Where trapping is carried on along the banks of the lakes and rivers,
+a boat of some kind becomes almost a positive necessity.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The following examples represent those in most general use. Perhaps
+the most common form of the "rough and ready" order of boats, is
+that called the&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<h4>"DUG-OUT," OR LOG CANOE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It's general appearance is well indicated by the accompanying
+illustration. With the proper tools, one of these canoes is easily
+made. A sharp axe, an adze, a shaving knife, a round edged adze,
+and a small auger, are principally necessary; and a cross-cut saw,
+broad-axe, sledge, and large sized chisel, will also be found useful.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In any case the log should not be much less than two feet in diameter,
+perfectly sound, and free from knots. If this precaution is observed,
+the result will be all the more satisfactory, and the canoe can be
+cut so thin, as to render it a light burden; being easily carried
+on the shoulders.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A pine log is generally chosen for a dug-out, on account of the
+lightness of the wood, and the ease with which it can be worked.
+Butternut, cottonwood and whitewood, are also excellent, and indeed
+almost any sound log of large size will answer the purpose.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For a dug-out of good size, the log should be ten or more feet
+in length. The first thing to be done is to cut a flat surface on
+one side of the log, from end to end. This indicates the bottom
+of the canoe. On the upper side the wood should be hewn away, in
+the curve shown on the upper outline of our illustration.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_260"><span class="page">Page 260</span></a>
+It is well to divide the log by notches into three equal lengths.
+In the centre division, the wood may be cut down to a straight
+line to a depth of about eight inches from the upper surface. The
+gradual curve to the bow and stern of the canoe should start from
+each end of this flat cut, and extend to the upper edge of the log,
+the guiding line being made on the sides of the log by a piece of
+chalk. The adze will come into good use in trimming off the wood on
+these curves. When this upper outline is accomplished, the log may
+be turned bottom side up, and the sides of the extremities rounded
+off. This may be done with an axe and adze, and when performed,
+the bottom curves should be made by chopping away the wood in the
+curves shown in the lower outline of our illustration. This curve
+should also be marked out with chalk, and should commence a little
+nearer the end of the log than the curve on the upper side. Shave
+off the wood to a blunt edge on this curve, at both bow and stern.
+The rough form of the canoe is now obtained, and by the aid of
+the draw-knife, or shaving-knife, it can be neatly and smoothly
+finished.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is then ready to be "dug-out." The tools most useful for this
+purpose are the adze and axe, and sometimes the sledge and chisel.
+The digging out is of course the most tedious part; but with sharp
+tools it is a comparatively easy matter. When the great bulk of the
+wood is taken out, the interior should be finished with a howel
+or round adze; and the sides may be worked to one inch and a half
+in thickness if desired. The writer once saw one of these canoes
+of most exquisite workmanship, being only one inch in thickness,
+and so light as to be easily lifted with one hand. Of course such
+perfection as this is not necessary for ordinary purposes; although
+where the canoe is expected to be carried any great distance, it
+is well to thin it as much as possible. A gimlet or small auger
+may be used to gauge the thickness of the canoe, using it in the
+following manner: Supposing the required thickness of the wood
+is two inches, proceed to bore the hole from the inside of the
+canoe, and continue until the point of the gimlet or auger barely
+makes its appearance on the outside. Draw out the tool, and if the
+thickness measures more than is required, insert into the hole
+a slender piece of wood exactly two inches in length; push it in
+as far as it will go, and you may safely work until you reach the
+end of it. By this method the thickness may be gauged in different
+parts of the boat sufficiently to acquire a fair average thickness,
+and there is no danger of
+<a name="page_261"><span class="page">Page 261</span></a>
+cutting through. The gimlet should be allowed to extend outside
+of the canoe only sufficiently to be detected, and the holes thus
+made will seldom give any trouble as leaks. If, however, this should
+be the case, a little putty or pitch will remedy the difficulty.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The "dug-out" may be constructed of any size, and of any desired
+shape, but the above is the usual type.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When leaks or cracks occur, they may be caulked with hemp, and
+smeared with pitch, which will render them thoroughly waterproof.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For lightness and portability there is no boat more desirable or
+more unique than&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Where the white birch grows in perfection, and the trees attain
+a large size, the chief material of the birch bark canoe is at
+hand; and although we ordinary mortals could not be expected to
+attain to that perfection of skill which the Indians exhibit in
+the manufacture of these canoes, we nevertheless can succeed
+sufficiently well to answer all practical purposes. The Indian
+canoes are often perfect marvels of skill and combined strength and
+lightness. These half-civilized beings seem to take as naturally to
+the making of these commodities, as if it were almost an hereditary
+habit with them; and few men, even with the most exhaustive practice,
+can compete with the Indian in the combined result of strength,
+lightness, durability, external beauty, and nicety of work, which
+are the united characteristics of the typical bark canoe.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The average length of the "Bark," as used by trappers, is about
+twelve feet, but they may be constructed of any desired dimensions,
+to the length of forty feet. A canoe of this size will carry fifteen
+or twenty persons, and may be transported with ease upon the shoulders
+of two strong men. The smaller size, above mentioned, is capable
+of carrying two persons, and is a light load for a single man.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In constructing the bark canoe the first requisite is the gunwale,
+or upper framework. This should consist of four strips of cedar,
+ash, or other light, strong wood; two for each side of the boat.
+For an ordinary sized canoe, their length should be about twelve
+feet, width one inch, and thickness one-quarter of an inch. They
+should be tied together in pairs at the ends, and the two pairs
+then joined at the same place. The object of
+<a name="page_262"><span class="page">Page 262</span></a>
+these pieces is to give strength and form to the canoe, and to
+offer a firm security for the edges of the bark, which are secured
+between them. The gunwale being prepared, we are now ready for
+the birch bark. The bottom of a well made canoe should be in one
+large piece, as our illustration indicates, if possible. Select
+some large tree with the trunk free from knots or excrescences.
+Mark off as great a length as possible, and chop a straight cut
+in the bark through the whole length of the piece, after which
+it should be carefully peeled from the wood. It will sometimes
+happen, where large birches exist in perfection, that a single
+piece may be found of sufficient size for a whole canoe, but this
+is rather exceptional, and the bottom is generally pieced out,
+as seen in our drawing. This piecing may be accomplished with an
+awl and Indian twine, or by the aid of a large needle threaded
+with the same, sewing with an over-and-over stitch around the edge
+of each piece. Use as large pieces as are attainable, and continue
+to sew them on until the area of bark measures about four and a
+half feet in width by twelve feet in length, the dark colored sides
+of the bark all facing the same way. Next select a fiat piece of
+ground, and mark off a distance of ten feet, or two feet less than
+the length of the gunwales. At each end of the space two tall stakes
+should be driven into the ground about three inches apart. Now
+turn the bark on the ground with its white side uppermost, and
+fold it loosely and evenly through the long centre. In this folded
+condition it should now be lifted by the upper edge and set between
+the stakes. There will then be about a foot of projecting bark
+beyond each pair of stakes. These ends should now be covered by
+folding another piece of bark over them, sewing the edges firmly
+to the sides of the rude form of the canoe, which now presents
+itself. When this is done, each end should be supported on a log
+or stone; this will cause the bottom line to sink downwards at
+about the proper curve. We are now ready for the gunwale. Lay it
+in the proper position, fitting the edges of the bark between the
+two strips on each side, and sewing around the whole with a winding
+stitch, exactly after the manner of the edge of an ordinary palm-leaf
+fan. The inside of the canoe should now be lined with long strips
+of cedar running through the entire length of the boat if possible,
+but if not, should be so cut as to neatly overlap at the ends.
+These pieces should be an inch or two in width, and from a quarter
+to half an inch-in thickness. The ribs are then to be put in. These
+are generally made from ash, one or two inches in width, and
+<a name="page_263"><span class="page">Page 263</span></a>
+
+<span style="float: right; clear: right; width: 199px;">
+<img src="images/fig136.jpg" width="199" height="748" alt="Figure 136">
+</span>
+
+a quarter of an inch in thickness. Any light flexible wood will
+answer the purpose, and even barrel hoops when attainable will do
+very well. These ribs should be bent to fit the interior of the
+canoe crosswise, either close together, or with equal distances
+between them and the ends should then be firmly secured beneath the
+gunwales by a continuous loop-stitch through the bark. For a canoe
+of twelve feet in length, the width should be about two feet, and in
+order to keep the gunwales firm, two or more cross-pieces should
+be inserted, and lashed firmly at their ends as our illustration
+shows. The centre third of the length of the canoe should be parallel
+at the sides, and if two braces, two feet in length are placed at
+each end of this third, the shape will be about perfect. We now
+have a bark canoe of considerable strength and durability, and
+it only awaits to be made water-proof for final use. In order to
+accomplish this all the seams outside, and the entire interior of
+the canoe should, be smeared with pitch, after which its floating
+qualities may be tested with confidence. Should any leaks occur their
+where-abouts are easily detected, and an additional application
+of pitch will remedy the difficulty. The Indians in sewing their
+bark canoes use tamarack roots, fibrous plants, and grasses, in
+lieu of thread, and even with these inferior materials often attain
+to such perfection in compact sewing, as to render the use of pitch
+unnecessary for water-proof purposes. Such skill is rarely attained
+by the white man, and the art of making a water-proof canoe, even
+out of a single piece of bark, is by no means an easy task without
+the aid of tar or pitch.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_264"><span class="page">Page 264</span></a>
+For the trapper we strongly recommend the birch "bark." With the
+above directions we are sure no one could go astray, and we are
+equally sure that a canoe made as we describe, would present advantages
+of lightness and portability which no other style of boat would
+possess. For temporary purposes, canoes can be made from basswood,
+hemlock, or spruce bark; but they are at best, very rude and clumsy
+in comparison with the birch bark. They are generally made after
+the principles of the above described; either sewing or nailing
+the edges of the bark together, and smearing every joint and seam
+profusely with pitch, and adding gunwales, lining, and ribs.
+</p>
+
+<h4>A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The following gives an easy method of making a light and serviceable
+bateau, which any boy, with moderate ingenuity or skill, could
+easily construct:&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Select two boards, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness,
+eighteen or twenty inches in width, and twelve feet in length,
+which we will consider the required length of the boat. These boards
+should be well seasoned, and free from knots, and at least one of
+the sides should be straight.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Next, with the aid of a draw-shave, proceed to shape the ends of
+one of the boards, as seen on our diagram, (<i>e</i>) representing
+the forward, (<i>g</i>) the stern. The curve of the bow should
+commence at about four feet from the end, and take a rounded slope
+upward, leaving about ten inches of width at the end of the board
+(<i>e</i>). The stern should be cut at the angle shown at (<i>g</i>),
+commencing at about two and a half feet from the extremity of the
+board and continuing upward to about ten inches from the upper
+edge. The board thus shaped should now be laid evenly on the other,
+and the outline of the cut portions carefully scratched upon it,
+after which the second board should be cut in a similar manner
+as the first, so as to form an exact duplicate.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This being accomplished, the two should be laid evenly, one over
+the other, and the exact center of their long edges ascertained.
+Marking off about five inches on each side of this centre on both
+boards.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Next procure another board about ten inches in width, three feet
+in length, and perfectly squared at the ends. Nail each end of
+this piece securely and squarely in the space marked on each of
+the long boards. Then turn the pieces carefully over and
+<a name="page_265"><span class="page">Page 265</span></a>
+nail another board across the bottom, directly opposite the first.
+
+<span style="float: right; clear: right; width: 85px;">
+<img src="images/fig137.jpg" width="85" height="712" alt="Figure 137"
+ style="float: right; clear: right;">
+</span>
+
+We will now leave them and give our attention to the bow piece, which
+is the next requisite. This is shown at (<i>a</i>), and consists
+of a solid piece of oak, or other hard wood, well seasoned, and
+hewn out in the arrow shape, indicated in our illustration. It
+should first be cut three-cornered, the inside face being about
+eight inches, and the other two ten inches. Its length should be
+about eleven inches, and its under side should be sloped off on a
+line with the under curve of the bows. At about five inches from
+the inner face, and on each side, a piece should be sawn out, one
+inch in thickness, thus leaving on each side a notch which will
+exactly receive the side-boards of the boat, as seen at (<i>a</i>).
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The piece being thus ready, the bow ends of the boards should be
+drawn together, fitted in the notches and securely spiked with
+large nails. A bow piece of this kind adds greatly to the strength
+of a boat, and will stand much rough usage. The board for the stem
+should next be prepared. This should be ten inches in width and
+two feet in length, and should be securely nailed between the ends
+of the boards at the stem, as shown at (<i>g</i>), being afterwards
+overlapped on the top by a board of similar size, as our illustration
+shows, at (<i>c</i>). The bottom of the boat is now easily made by
+nailing boards crosswise, sawing off the projecting ends close to
+the curve of the side-boards. After the pieces are all nailed in
+place, the seams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, using a
+blunt chisel, or hard wooden wedge, and a mallet. The seats should
+now be put in, as these are not only a matter of comfort, but of
+necessity, acting as braces to the sides of the boat. They should
+be two in number, one being placed three feet from the stern and
+the other one foot beyond the brace board originally nailed across
+the top of the boat. The seats should be cut at the ends in a curve
+corresponding to the part of the boat in which they are placed,
+and should be situated about a foot from the bottom of the boat,
+their ends resting on short boards beneath them against the sides
+of the boat. These are indicated by the dotted lines (<i>h h</i>)
+in the diagram. When
+<a name="page_266"><span class="page">Page 266</span></a>
+thus resting they should be securely fastened in place by strong
+
+<span style="float: left; clear: left; width: 197px;">
+<img src="images/fig138.jpg" width="197" height="715" alt="Figure 138"
+ style="float: left;">
+</span>
+
+screws, driven through the sides of the boat into their ends (<i>f
+f</i>), allowing some one to sit on the seat meanwhile to keep it
+in place. Small cleats should now be tacked to the bottom of the
+boat, beneath the seat and underneath the seat itself, in order
+to keep the props in place; after which the original brace board
+across the top of the boat may be knocked off and the bateau is
+complete and ready for service. A boat thus made is quite comely
+in shape, and may be painted to suit the fancy. Should a rudder
+be required, the broad board at the stern offers a good place of
+attachment, and oar-locks may be adjusted at the proper places.
+These may consist of a pair of cleats attached to the inside of
+the boat, as seen in the illustration. In case it may be found
+difficult to obtain the large single boards for the sides of the
+boat, two or more narrow ones will answer the purpose, although
+not as perfectly. In this case they should first be firmly attached
+together by cleats, securely screwed to the inside. When first put
+on the water the boat will probably leak in places, but if left
+to soak for a few hours the wood will generally swell sufficiently
+to completely close the crevices. If, however, the leak should
+continue, that particular part of the boat should be re-caulked
+and smeared with pitch. This latter substance is of great value
+to the trapper, not only in boat building but in the construction
+of his shanties and in other various ways. It will most effectually
+stop almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should always
+be applied hot.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_267"><span class="page">Page 267</span></a>
+THE SCOW.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow for
+considerable speed in the water, either in rowing or sculling;
+but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed bows
+may be dispensed with, and the sides of the boat made perfectly
+straight. In this case the bottom takes equal slopes at the ends,
+and both bow and stern are of the same width, and an ordinary
+flat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result. In many cases
+a scow of this kind answers every purpose, and is certainly much
+more easily made.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We have thus described a few of the most common instances of boats
+used by trappers, and with our full description and illustrations
+no one can go astray. A boat of some kind is almost an indispensable
+requisite to the trapper, and anyone of the foregoing will be found
+sufficient for all ordinary purposes.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A paddle may be used, and in shallow or muddy water a pusher or
+mud-stick will be found useful. This should consist of a pole seven
+or eight feet in length, supplied at the ends with an attachment of
+the shape of the letter U. This may be constructed in two pieces,
+firmly screwed to opposite sides of the end of the pole, and so
+formed as to present a curved crotch. Such a stick will be found
+very useful for pushing through weeds and muddy places. A simple
+pole trimmed so as to leave a crotch at the end will also answer
+the purpose very well.
+</p>
+
+<h4>SNOW-SHOES.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+These commodities are almost indispensable to the trapper where
+he pursues his vocation in the winter time, during the prevalence
+of deep snows. When properly made they permit the wearer to walk
+over the surface of the snow with perfect ease; where, without
+them, travel would be extremely difficult if not impossible.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the regions of perpetual snow, and also in Canada and neighboring
+districts, snow-shoes are very commonly worn. In the latter localities
+the "snow-shoe race" forms one of the favorite sports of the season,
+and young and old alike join in its mysteries. Like riding on the
+velocipede, walking on snow-shoes looks "easy enough," but we notice
+that a few somersaults are usually a convincing argument that the art
+is not as simple as it appears. The first experience on snow-shoes is
+<a name="page_268"><span class="page">Page 268</span></a>
+apt to be at least undignifying, if not discouraging, and in order to
+get used to the strange capers and eccentricities of an ordinarily
+well-behaved snow shoe, it requires considerable patience and practice.
+There is no telling where, in an unguarded moment, they will land
+you, and they seem to take especial delight in stepping on each
+other and turning their wearer upside down. The principal secret
+of success (and one may as well know it at the start, as to learn
+it at the expense of a pint of snow down his back) consists in
+taking steps sufficiently long to bring the widest portion of the
+stepping shoe beyond that of the other, keeping the feet rather
+far apart and stepping pretty high. By observing these precautions,
+and trusting in Providence, much embarrassment may be saved, and
+an hour's effort will thoroughly tame the unruly appendages, which
+at best do not permit of much grace or elegance of gait.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+To the moose hunter snow-shoes are often an absolute necessity,
+and trapping in many cases would be impossible without them. They
+are thus brought fully within the scope of our volume, and we give
+a few simple directions for their manufacture. Our illustration
+gives the correct shape of the shoe. The framework should consist
+of a strip of ash, hickory or some other elastic wood, bent into
+the form indicated and wound around the ends with twine or strips
+of hide. The length of the piece should be about six feet, more
+or less, in proportion to the size of the individual who proposes
+to wear the shoe. If the bending should prove difficult it may
+be rendered an easy matter by the application of boiling water.
+Across the front part two strips of stout leather, or other tough
+hide, are then fastened, and these further secured together by three
+or four bands on each side of the middle, as our drawing shows.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the original Indian snow-shoe, from which our drawing was made,
+the net work was constructed from strips of moose hide, which were
+interlaced much after the manner of an ordinary cane-seated chair.
+Strips of leather, deer skin, or even split cane, above alluded to,
+may also be used, and the lacing may be either as our illustration
+represents, or in the simpler rectangular woof seen in ordinary
+cloth.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In order to attach the interlacing to the bow the latter should be
+wound with wide strips of cane, if it can be procured, or otherwise
+with strips of tough skin. The loops thus formed offer a continuous
+security, and the whole interior, with the exception of the space
+at the front between the cross pieces, should be neatly filled
+with the next work. It is well to run the first lines
+<a name="page_269"><span class="page">Page 269</span></a>
+across the shoe, from side to side, passing through the windings
+of the bow. Across them, in the form of the letter X, the two other
+
+<span style="float: right; clear: right; width: 199px;">
+<img src="images/fig139.jpg" width="199" height="672" alt="Figure 139"
+ style="float: left;">
+</span>
+
+cords should be interlaced, after the manner shown in the cut.
+This forms a secure and not very complicated network, and is the
+style usually adopted by the Indian makers.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There is another mode of attaching the lace-work to the bow which
+is also commonly employed, and consists in a series of holes bored
+at regular intervals through the wood. The winding is thus dispensed
+with, but the bow is sometimes weakened by the operation, and we are
+inclined to recommend the former method in preference. In attaching
+the shoe, the ball of the foot should be set on the second cross
+piece, and there secured by a strip of hide, which should be first
+adjusted as seen in the engraving, being afterward tied over the
+foot and then behind the ankle. Snow-shoes are made in other ways,
+but we believe that the typical Indian snow-shoe above described
+is the best.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For winter traffic over deep snows there is no better sled in the
+world than the Indian toboggan. To the trapper during a winter
+campaign it is often an indispensable convenience, and without
+it the Indian hunters of the North would find great difficulty in
+getting their furs to market. All through the winter season the
+various trading posts of Canada are constantly visited by numbers
+of Indian trappers, many of whom have travelled hundreds of miles
+on their snow-shoes with their
+<a name="page_270"><span class="page">Page 270</span></a>
+heavily laden toboggans. Arrived at their market they sell or trade
+their stock of furs, and likewise dispose of their toboggans, reserving
+only their snow-shoes to aid them in their long tramp homewards.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In Canada and northward the toboggan is in very extensive use, both
+for purposes of traffic and amusement. It is quite commonly met
+with in the streets of various Canadian cities, and is especially
+appreciated by the youthful population, who are fond of coasting
+over the crust of snow. For this purpose there is no other sled
+like it, and a toboggan of the size we shall describe will easily
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 504px;">
+  <img src="images/fig140.jpg" width="504" height="175" alt="Figure 140">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+accommodate two or three boys, and will glide over a crust of snow
+with great ease and rapidity. To the trapper it is especially valuable
+for all purposes of transportation. The flat bottom rests upon
+the surface of the snow, and the weight being thus distributed
+a load of two or three hundred pounds will often make but little
+impression and can be drawn with marvellous ease. Our illustration
+gives a very clear idea of the sled, and it can be made in the
+following way: the first requisite is a board about eight feet
+in length and sixteen or more inches in width. Such a board may
+be procured at any saw mill. Oak is the best wood for the purpose,
+although hickory, basswood or ash will do excellently. It should
+be planed or sawed to a thickness of about a third of an inch,
+and should be free from knots. If a single board of the required
+width is not easily found, two boards may be used, and secured
+side by side by three cleats, one at each end and the other in
+the middle, using wrought nails and clinching them deeply into the
+board on the under side. The single board is much to be preferred,
+if it can be had. The next requisites are seven or eight wooden
+cross-pieces of a length equivalent to the width of the board.
+Four old broom-sticks, cut in the required lengths, will answer
+<a name="page_271"><span class="page">Page 271</span></a>
+this purpose perfectly, and if these are not at hand other sticks
+of similar dimensions should be used. Two side pieces are next
+needed. These should be about five feet in length, and in thickness
+exactly similar to the cross pieces. Next procure a few pairs of
+leather shoe-strings or some strips of tough calf skin. With these
+in readiness we may now commence the work of putting the parts
+together. Begin by laying the cross pieces at equal distances along
+the board; across these and near their ends lay the two side pieces,
+as seen in the illustration. By the aid of a gimlet or awl, four
+holes should now be made through the board, beneath the end of each
+cross piece, and also directly under the side piece. It is well to
+mark with a pencil, the various points for the holes, after which
+the sticks can be removed and the work much more easily performed.
+The four holes should be about an inch apart, or so disposed as to
+mark the four corners of a square inch. It is also necessary to
+make other holes along the length of the cross pieces, as seen
+in the illustration. The line on these can also be marked with
+the pencil across the board, and the holes made afterwards. These
+should also be an inch apart, and only two in number at each point,
+one on each side of the stick. When all the holes are made the
+board should be turned over, in order to complete preparations
+on the other side. The object of these various holes is for the
+passage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose of securing
+the cross pieces firmly to the board. In order to prevent these
+loops from wearing off on the under side, small grooves should next
+be made connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing the leather
+string to sink into the wood, where it is securely protected from
+injury. A narrow chisel is the best tool for this purpose, the making
+of the grooves being much more easily and perfectly accomplished
+with this than with the jack-knife. When the under side is thus
+finished the board may be turned over and the cross pieces and
+sides again arranged in place as already described. Secure the
+pieces to the board by the leather strings through the various
+holes, always knotting on the upper surface, and taking care that
+the knots are firmly tied. The ends of all the cross pieces will
+require a double cross stitch through the four holes beneath, in
+order to secure the side pieces as well. This is plainly shown in
+the small diagram (<i>a</i>). The front end of each side piece
+underneath should now be sharpened to a point, to allow for the
+bend at the front of the toboggan. The cross piece at this end
+should be secured to the under side of the board, so that as it
+bends over it will appear on the upper edge, as our
+<a name="page_272"><span class="page">Page 272</span></a>
+illustration shows. The board should next be bent with a graceful
+curve, and thus held in position by a rope or strip of leather at
+each extremity of the end cross piece and attached to the ends of
+the third cross piece, as seen in the engraving. If the bending is
+difficult and there is danger of breaking the board, the application
+of boiling water will render it pliable. The draw strings should
+then be attached to the ends of the second cross piece, and our
+toboggan is now complete.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It may now be laden with two or three hundred pounds of merchandize
+and will be found to draw over the surface of the snow with perfect
+ease. For coasting over the crust there is nothing like it. Such a
+toboggan as we have described will easily accommodate three boys,
+the one at the stern being provided with a sharp stick for steering,
+and the front occupant holding firmly to the draw strings. The
+toboggan is easily made, and will do good service either for traffic
+or sport.
+</p>
+
+<h4>CURING SKINS.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This department of the trapper's art is one of the most important
+and necessary, as affecting pecuniary profits. The value of a skin
+in the fur market depends entirely upon the care with which it
+is taken from the animal and afterward prepared, and without a
+knowledge on this subject the young trapper will in vain seek for
+high prices for his furs. Large quantities of valuable skins are
+sent to our markets annually by inexperienced amateur trappers,
+and in many cases rare and beautiful furs have been almost spoiled
+by want of care in skinning and curing. The rules are simple and
+easily followed, a little care being all that is necessary to insure
+most perfect success. In every case the skin should be removed
+shortly after death, or at least before it has become tainted with
+decay. Great pains should be taken in skinning. Avoid the adherence
+of flesh or fat to the skin, and guard against cutting through the
+hide, as a pierced skin is much injured in value. The parts about
+the eyes, legs and ears should be carefully removed. The various
+methods of skinning are described in our section on trapping, and
+in all cases the furs should be allowed to dry in a cool, airy
+place, free from the rays of the sun or the heat of a fire, and
+protected from rain.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Astringent preparations of various kinds are used by many trappers,
+but they are by no means necessary. The most common dressing consists
+of equal parts of rock salt and alum dissolved in water. Into this
+a sufficient amount of coarse flour
+<a name="page_273"><span class="page">Page 273</span></a>
+or wheat bran is stirred to give the mixture the consistency of
+batter, after which it is spread thickly over the skin and allowed
+to dry.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It is afterwards scraped off, and in some cases a second application
+is made. This preparation is much used in dressing beaver, otter,
+mink and muskrat skins, but as many of our most successful and
+experienced trappers do without it, we fail to see the advantage of
+using it, as it is only an extra trouble. The simplest and surest
+way is to stretch the skin and to submit it to a gradual process
+of natural drying without any artificial heat or application of
+astringents to hasten the result.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A very common mode of stretching skins consists in tacking them to
+a board, with the fur inwards, and allowing them to dry as already
+described.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This method does very well for small skins, but for general purposes
+the "stretchers" are the only means by which a pelt may be properly
+cured and prepared.
+</p>
+
+<h4>STRETCHERS.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The board stretcher is the simplest form and is in most common use
+among trappers for the smaller animals. These stretchers are of
+two kinds, the plain and the wedged. The plain stretcher consists
+of a piece of board a quarter of an inch in thickness, about eighteen
+inches long and six inches in width. One end of this board is rounded
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 353px;">
+  <img src="images/fig141.jpg" width="353" height="131" alt="Figure 141">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+off, as seen in our illustration, and the sides should also be
+whittled and smoothed to a blunt edge.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The board stretchers are used only for those skins which are taken
+off whole, that is, as described in the chapter on the otter. The
+skin should be drawn tightly over the blunt end of the board, and
+its edges either caught in notches cut in the edges of the square
+end or secured by a few tacks. This
+<a name="page_274"><span class="page">Page 274</span></a>
+stretcher is particularly adapted to the skins of muskrats, minks
+and animals of a like size. They are known in New England as "shingle
+stretchers," and are much to be recommended on account of their
+lightness and the ease with which they can be made and carried.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The wedge stretcher is rather more elaborate than the foregoing,
+and is said to be an improvement.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The first requisite is a board of about three-eighths of an inch in
+
+<span class="center">
+ <span style="width: 448px;">
+  <img src="images/fig142.jpg" width="448" height="93" alt="Figure 142">
+ </span>
+</span>
+
+thickness, two feet or more in length, and three and a half inches
+at one end tapering to the width of two inches at the other. This
+end should now be rounded, and the edges of the board whittled off
+to a blunt edge, as already described in the foregoing, commencing
+near the centre of the board, and thinning to the edge, and finishing
+with the notches at the square end. Now, by the aid of a rip-saw,
+sever the board through the middle lengthwise.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The wedge is the next thing to be constructed, and should consist
+of a piece of wood the thickness of the centre of the board and
+of the same length, tapering from an inch in width at one end to
+half an inch at the other.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+To use the stretcher the two boards are inserted into the skin,
+(the latter with the fur side inward). The wedge is then inserted
+between the large ends of the boards and driven in sufficiently to
+stretch the pelt to its full capacity, securing it in the notches
+by slight cuts in the hide, or by a tack or two at the edge. It
+should then he hung in a cool, airy place, and the pelt left to
+"season."
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The bow stretcher is another contrivance very commonly used for
+small skins like the foregoing. When this is used the pelt should
+be skinned as described on <a href="#page_185">page 185</a>, the
+initial cut commencing at the lower jaw and extending down between
+the fore legs, all the feet being previously cut off. The bow may
+consist of a switch of any elastic wood such as hickory iron wood,
+elm or birch. It should be about three or more feet in length,
+and as large as a man's thumb at the butt end. By bending it in
+the shape of the letter U it may easily be inserted in
+<a name="page_275"><span class="page">Page 275</span></a>
+the skin, the latter being fastened by catching the lip on each side
+into a sliver notch cut on each end of the bow, as our illustration
+indicates.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig143.jpg" width="321" height="243" alt="Figure 143">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For large animals, such as the deer, bear, beaver, the hoop stretcher
+is generally employed.
+</p>
+
+<h4>THE HOOP STRETCHER.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This consists of a hoop made from one or more flexible switches
+tied together so as to form a circle. In order to be adapted to
+this mode of stretching, the skin should be flat, <i>i. e.</i>
+taken off as described on <a href="#page_172">page 172</a>, the
+initial cut extending from the lower jaw to the vent. The size
+of the hoop required depends upon the dimensions of the skin. Lay
+the latter upon some flat surface and so gauge the hoop as that
+it shall surround the pelt on all sides; after which the latter
+should be secured or laced to the hoop with twine at the edges.
+All loose parts should be drawn up, and the skin should everywhere
+be stretched like a drum head. When this is accomplished it is
+the custom with many trappers to apply the preparation described
+on <a href="#page_273">page 273</a>, particularly where the skin
+is thick and fatty. But we are rather disposed to discourage the
+use of any preparation whatever, in any case, as they are by no
+means necessary.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In using the board stretchers the fur should always be on the inside,
+and when the hoop or bow is used it should be placed in such a
+position, that the air may circulate freely on both sides of the
+skin, which should not be removed until thoroughly dry.
+</p>
+
+<h4>
+<a name="page_276"><span class="page">Page 276</span></a>
+TANNING SKINS.
+</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In case some of our readers might desire to tan fur skins for their
+own domestic purposes, the subjoined directions will be found to be
+reliable, and for all ordinary requirements, sufficiently adequate.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For tanning with the hair on, the skin should first be cleaned,
+every particle of loose fat or flesh, being removed, and the useless
+parts cut away. When this is done, it should be soaked for an hour
+or two in warm water. The following mixture should then be prepared:
+Take equal parts of borax, saltpetre, and sulphate of soda, and
+with them mix water sufficient to produce the consistency of thin
+batter.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This preparation should be painted thickly on the flesh side of
+the skin, after which these sides should be doubled together and
+the pelt left in an airy place.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A second mixture should next be prepared. This should consist of
+two parts sal soda; three parts borax; four parts castile or other
+hard soap: all to be melted together over a slow fire. At the end
+of twenty-four hours, after the application of the first mixture,
+the second should be applied in a similar manner, and the fur again
+folded and left for the same length of time. Next, make a mixture
+equal parts of salt and alum, dissolved in warm water and thickened
+with coarse flour to the consistency of thin paste. Spread this thickly
+over the skin and allow it to dry, after which it should be scraped
+off with the bowl of a spoon. The skin should be tightly stretched
+during the operation, in order to prevent too great shrinkage. A
+single application of the last-named dressing, is generally sufficient
+for small skins; but a second or third treatment may be resorted
+to if required, to make the skin soft and pliable, after which it
+should be finished off with sand-paper and pumice stone. A skin
+may be thus dressed as soft as velvet, and the alum and salt will
+set the hair securely.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The above directions are excellent, for all general purposes, but
+we subjoin, in addition, a few other valuable hints and specific
+recipes in common use. Every trapper has his own peculiar hobby
+in regard to his tanning process, and the recipes are various and
+extensive. The above is one of the most reliable for general use.
+A common mode of tanning mink and muskrat skins is given in the
+following:&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<h4>TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Before tanning, the skin should always be thoroughly cleansed
+<a name="page_277"><span class="page">Page 277</span></a>
+in warm water, and all fat and superfluous flesh removed. It should
+then be immersed in a solution made of the following ingredients:
+Five gallons of cold soft water; five quarts wheat bran; one gill
+of salt; and one ounce of sulphuric acid. Allow the skins to soak in
+the liquid for four or five hours. If the hides have been previously
+salted, the salt should be excluded from the mixed solution. The
+skins are now ready for the tanning liquor, which is made in the
+following way: into five gallons of warm, soft water, stir one peck
+of wheat bran and allow the mixture to stand in a warm room until
+fermentation takes place. Then add three pints of salt, and stir until
+it is thoroughly dissolved. A pint of sulphuric acid should then be
+poured in gradually, after which the liquor is ready. Immerse the
+skins and allow them to soak for three or four hours. The process
+of "fleshing" is then to be resorted to. This consists in laying the
+skin, fur side down, over some smooth beam, and working over the
+flesh side with a blunt fleshing tool. An old chopping knife, or
+tin candlestick, forms an excellent substitute for the ordinary
+fleshing knife, and the process of rubbing should be continued
+until the skin becomes dry, after which it will be found to be
+soft and pliable. The skin of the muskrat is quite tender, and the
+fleshing should be carefully performed.
+</p>
+
+<h4>HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, AND MARTEN.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+These should be stretched on a board and smeared with a mixture
+composed of three ounces each, of salt and alum; three gills of
+water, and one drachm of sulphuric acid. This should be thickened
+with wheat bran or flour, and should be allowed to dry on the skin,
+after which it should be scraped off with a spoon. Next, take the
+skin from the board, roll it with the fur inside, and draw it quickly
+backward and forward, over a smooth peg, or through an iron ring.
+The skin should then be unfolded and rolled again the opposite
+way, and the operation repeated until the pelt is quite soft and
+flexible. This is a good way of softening all kinds of skins, and
+the above preparation will be found excellent for all ordinary
+purposes. The muskrat skin may be treated in the same manner as
+the above, if desired, and the process directed on the muskrat
+skin may also be applied to the pelts of the other animals.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+To remove the fur for a simple tanned skin, the hide should be
+immersed in a liquid composed of&mdash;soft water, five gallons;
+slaked lime, four quarts; and wood ashes, four quarts. Allow
+<a name="page_278"><span class="page">Page 278</span></a>
+the skin to soak for a couple of days, after which the fur will
+readily slip off.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another method&mdash;take equal parts wood ashes and slaked lime,
+and add water to the consistency of batter. Spread this over the
+inside of the skin, roll it up, and place it in a pail, covering
+it with water. Here let it remain from one to five days, or until
+the hair will shed easily, after which it should be finished with
+the fleshing knife and velveted with sand paper.
+</p>
+
+<h4>OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In all cold climates, man has availed himself liberally of the
+warm covering with which nature has clothed the animals around
+him; but the wealth of the most favored nations has drawn to them
+the most beautiful furs, in whatever part of the world they are
+procured. Skins of animals were among the first materials used
+for clothing. Before Adam and Eve were driven from the Garden of
+Eden, they were furnished with coats of skins. The ancient Assyrians
+used the soft skins of animals to cover the couches or the ground
+in their tents, and the Israelites employed badger's skins and
+ram's skins, as ornamental hangings for the Tabernacle. The ancient
+heroes of the Greeks and Romans, are represented as being clothed
+in skins. &AElig;neas, wearing for an outer garment, that of the
+lion, and Alcestes being formidably clad in that of the Libyan
+Bear. Herodotus speaks of those living near the Caspian Sea wearing
+seal skins, and C&aelig;sar mentions that the skin of the reindeer
+formed in part the clothing of the Germans. In the early period,
+furs appear to have constituted the entire riches of the Northern
+countries, and they were almost the only exports. Taxes were paid
+on them, and they were the medium of exchange. So it was also in
+our own Western territories in the latter part of the last century,
+and is to the present day, to a great extent, among the Indians.
+In the eleventh century, furs had become fashionable throughout
+Europe, and the art of dyeing them, was practiced in the twelfth.
+In the history of the Crusades, frequent mention is made of the
+magnificent displays by the European Princes, of their dresses
+of costly furs, before the Court at Constantinople. But Richard
+I. of England, and Philip II. of France, in order to check the
+growing extravagance in their use, resolved that the choicer furs,
+ermine and sable amongst the number, should be omitted from their
+kingly wardrobes. Louis IX. followed their example in the next
+century, but not
+<a name="page_279"><span class="page">Page 279</span></a>
+until his extravagance had grown to such a pitch, that <i>seven
+hundred and forty-six</i> ermines were required for the <i>lining</i>
+of one of his <i>surcoats</i>. In the times, the use of the choicer
+furs, as those of the sable, ermine, gris, and Hungarian squirrel,
+was restricted to the royal families and the nobility, to whom they
+served as distinctive marks and badges of rank. These privileged
+persons applied them lavishly to their own use, and the fashion
+extended to the princes of other less civilized nations. Their
+royal use soon extended to Tartary, and the tents of the Khan were
+bedecked with the most rich and costly furs. In the following century,
+furs were commonly worn in England until their use was prohibited
+by Edward III., to all persons whose purse would not warrant a
+yearly expenditure of &pound;100.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The early fur trade of Western Europe, was conducted through the
+merchants on the south coast of the Baltic, who received goods from
+the ports of Livonia. In the sixteenth century, a direct trade was
+opened between the English and Russians; and a company of the former,
+protected by the Czar, established trading posts on the White Sea,
+and a warehouse at Moscow, whence they sent trading parties to
+Persia and the countries on the Caspian Sea. The Czar sent rich
+presents of beautiful furs, to Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth;
+but the latter prohibited the wearing of any but native furs, and
+the trade soon declined and was abandoned. In the 17th century,
+Siberia was conquered by the Russians, and its tribute was paid
+in furs. Large quantities were also furnished to China, but the
+choicest kinds&mdash;the precious ermine, the brilliant, fiery
+foxes, and the best sables, were taken to Moscow, for the use of
+the princes and nobles of Russia, Turkey, and Persia.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In our own country, the early settlers of the Northern provinces,
+soon learned the value of the furs of the numerous animals which
+peopled the extensive rivers, lakes, and forests of these vast
+territories. They collected the skins in abundance, and found an
+increasing demand for them, with every new arrival of immigrants
+from the mother country. Trinkets, liquors, and other articles
+sought for by the native tribes, were shipped to Quebec, and from
+thence up the St. Lawrence to Montreal, which soon became the great
+trading post of the country. The various tribes of Indians were
+stimulated by trifling compensation, to pursue their only congenial
+and peaceful occupation; and the French settlers, readily assimilating
+to the Indian habits, became themselves expert hunters, trappers,
+and explorers.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The business prospered, and the English soon became interested and
+secured a share of the valuable trade. Many
+<a name="page_280"><span class="page">Page 280</span></a>
+wealthy and influential parties, connected with the government
+of Great Britain,&mdash;Prince Rupert and Lord Ashley, among the
+number&mdash;became deeply interested in this source of revenue;
+and after a successful enterprise, they obtained from Charles II.,
+a charter of incorporation, giving to them full possession of the
+territory within the entrance of Hudson's Straits, not already granted
+to other subjects, or possessed by those of any other Christian
+prince or State. In this charter was included the monopoly, of all
+trade in these regions, and thus we see the origin of the Great
+Hudson's Bay Company, which is to-day, one of the largest organizations
+of its kind on the globe. The territory they claimed, extended
+from Hudson's Bay, west to the Pacific, and north to the Arctic
+Ocean, excepting that occupied by the French and Russians. They
+soon formed settlements upon the various rivers which empty into
+Hudson's Bay, and carried on their operations with immense vigor
+and success. They met with much opposition and open hostility from
+the French, and were subjected to vast expenses and losses, but in
+spite of all, they continued to prosper. Their forts or factories
+were extended further into the interior of British America, and
+their power was supreme throughout the country, and in a great
+measure over the Indians, whom they employed to collect their skins.
+In the course of time, the French Canadians organized themselves
+into a united band, under the name of the North West Company, and
+established their headquarters at Montreal. Their operations were
+carried on with great energy and profit, and many factories were
+built in the western portion of the Province. The company thus soon
+became a formidable competitor with the Hudson's Bay Company and
+for a period of two years, an actual state of war existed between
+them. This condition of affairs finally terminated in a consolidation
+of the two organizations, under the name of the Hudson's Bay Company,
+the privileges of which extended over all the territory formerly
+occupied by both.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Thus, we have the history of the famous Hudson's Bay Company, from
+its origin to its perfect organization. It is a most stupendous
+concern, and its annual shipment of furs, is something amazing.
+Their great sales take place in the month of March, in order to
+be completed before Easter; and again in September, every year
+at London, and are attended by purchasers from nearly all parts
+of the world. Leipsic, the famous fur mart of Germany, is also
+the scene of a great annual fair, for the sale of skins.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The importance of the fur trade in this country, led to the
+<a name="page_281"><span class="page">Page 281</span></a>
+early settlement of the Western territories of the United States; and
+many a frontier city, like St. Paul, has been built up by the enterprise
+of the trapper. Mackinaw and Montreal owe much of their growth to
+the traffic of the fur trade; and many a kingly fortune&mdash;John
+Jacob Astor's, for instance&mdash;has been founded on peltry.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Besides the above fur sales in London a moderate portion of those
+annually collected in the United States are retained for use, amounting
+to about 150,000 mink and 750,000 muskrat skins, besides a number
+of other furs which are manufactured and worn.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The annual yield of raw furs throughout the whole world is estimated
+at over twenty millions of dollars in value; and when we include
+the manufactured articles therefrom, the amount will swell to a
+hundred millions or over. This will serve to give some idea of
+the immensity and value of the business.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+American dealers divide our native furs into two classes, viz.,
+<i>home</i> and <i>shipping</i> furs; the former being chiefly
+utilized in our own country, while the latter are exported to all
+parts of the world. New York City is the great fur mart and depot
+for the shipping trade in this country, and the annual value of
+its exports, in this one branch of trade is enormous.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The principal shipping furs are the silver, red and cross Fox, Wild
+Cat, Raccoon, Fisher, Muskrat and Skunk.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Among the home furs are the Marten, Mink, Opossum, Wolf and Muskrat,
+the latter being extensively used both here and abroad.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the following chapter will be found more detailed notes on the
+leading American furs, including their various uses and the different
+countries for which they are the especial staples.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In order to give the reader some idea of the variety and magnitude
+of the yield of furs from our own country, we annex a table (p.
+282) showing the sales of the Hudson's Bay Company, at London,
+in the year 1873.
+</p>
+
+<h4>MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Below will be found an authentic table of the comparative values
+of the various American furs at the present date of publication.
+The quotations are those of one of our largest fur dealers, as
+published in "THE HAT, CAP AND FUR TRADE REVIEW," the leading journal
+of the trade in America. Of course these values are constantly
+varying&mdash;keeping pace with the eccentricities of fashion and
+the demands of the fur trade; but
+<a name="page_282"><span class="page">Page 282</span></a>
+the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values, as
+between the two extremes of common and scarce furs. The fur market
+is a great deal like the stock market. It is constantly fluctuating,
+and a fur which is to-day among the novelties, may next year find
+itself on the low priced list. The demand for furs of any kind is
+nearly always governed by fashion, and of course the value is estimated
+on the demand. If the convention of fur dealers should decide to
+usher in <i>Muskrat fur</i> as the leading and most fashionable
+article in that line, the fashion would create the demand, the
+demand would be in turn supplied by the trappers throughout the
+country, and in proportion as the Muskrat skins became scarce,
+so their value would increase. In this way a skin which may be
+worth fifty cents at one time may soon acquire a value of twenty
+times that amount. The comparative value of skins is, therefore,
+constantly varying more or less; but the annexed table (<a
+href="#page_283">page 283</a>) will be found useful for general
+reference, and for approximate figures, will probably answer every
+purpose for some time to come.
+</p>
+
+<table style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;
+  border-collapse: collapse;">
+ <tr>
+  <th class="btrb">KINDS.</th>
+  <th class="btrb">No.&nbsp;of&nbsp;Skins.<br />March&nbsp;Sale.</th>
+  <th class="btrb">No.&nbsp;of&nbsp;Skins.<br />Sept.&nbsp;Sale.</th>
+  <th class="btrb">Total No.</th>
+  <th class="btrb">Price&nbsp;according<br />to&nbsp;quality.</th>
+  <th class="btb">Estimated<br />average<br />price<br />per&nbsp;skin.</th>
+ <tr><td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&pound;&nbsp;&nbsp;s.&nbsp;&nbsp;d.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Badger</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2,700</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2,700</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1s. to 7s.</td>
+  <td class="right">1 06</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Bear</td>
+  <td class="right_br">5,217</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2,794</td>
+  <td class="right_br">8,011</td>
+  <td class="right_br">5s. to &pound;8 10s.</td>
+  <td class="right">5  0 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Beaver</td>
+  <td class="right_br">111,993</td>
+  <td class="right_br">37,052</td>
+  <td class="right_br">149,045</td>
+  <td class="right_br">4S. 3d. to 38s. 6d.</td>
+  <td class="right">1 00 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Fisher</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2,843</td>
+  <td class="right_br">779</td>
+  <td class="right_br">3,622</td>
+  <td class="right_br">8s. to &pound;3 5s.</td>
+  <td class="right">2 10 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Fox, Blue</td>
+  <td class="right_br">90</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">90</td>
+  <td class="right_br">18s. to &pound;4.</td>
+  <td class="right">2 10 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+  Cross</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1,818</td>
+  <td class="right_br">471</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2,289</td>
+  <td class="right_br">5s. to &pound;4.</td>
+  <td class="right">1 10 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+  Kitt</td>
+  <td class="right_br">6,930</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">6,930</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2s. 8d. to 28s. 10d.</td>
+  <td class="right">3 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+  Red</td>
+  <td class="right_br">6,914</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1,383</td>
+  <td class="right_br">8,297</td>
+  <td class="right_br">4s. 6d. to 17s.</td>
+  <td class="right">10 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+  Silver</td>
+  <td class="right_br">540</td>
+  <td class="right_br">148</td>
+  <td class="right_br">688</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&pound;3 10s. to &pound;21.</td>
+  <td class="right">10 00 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+  White</td>
+  <td class="right_br">7,312</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">7,312</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2s. to 14s. 9d.</td>
+  <td class="right">7 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Lynx</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2,468</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1,652</td>
+  <td class="right_br">4,120</td>
+  <td class="right_br">9s. 6d. to &pound;1 14s.</td>
+  <td class="right">18 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Marten</td>
+  <td class="right_br">47,878</td>
+  <td class="right_br">18,955</td>
+  <td class="right_br">66,833</td>
+  <td class="right_br">10s. to &pound;3 19s.</td>
+  <td class="right">1 10 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Mink</td>
+  <td class="right_br">31,802</td>
+  <td class="right_br">12,896</td>
+  <td class="right_br">44,698</td>
+  <td class="right_br">4s. to &pound;1 8s. 6d.</td>
+  <td class="right">15 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Muskrat</td>
+  <td class="right_br">651,498</td>
+  <td class="right_br">116,488</td>
+  <td class="right_br">767,896</td>
+  <td class="right_br">3d. to 16d.</td>
+  <td class="right">00  8</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Otter</td>
+  <td class="right_br">8,571</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2,681</td>
+  <td class="right_br">11,252</td>
+  <td class="right_br">14s. to &pound;3 18s.</td>
+  <td class="right">2 10 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+  Sea</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">98</td>
+  <td class="right_br">98</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&pound;4 10s. to &pound;32.</td>
+  <td class="right">15 00 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Rabbit</td>
+  <td class="right_br">10,029</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;0</td>
+  <td class="right_br">10,029</td>
+  <td class="right_br">3d. to 4d.</td>
+  <td class="right">00  3</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Raccoon</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">3,582</td>
+  <td class="right_br">3,582</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1s. to 3s. 3d.</td>
+  <td class="right">2  6</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Skunk</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1,691</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1,691</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2s. to 7s.</td>
+  <td class="right">4 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="br">Wolf</td>
+  <td class="right_br">6,216</td>
+  <td class="right_br">188</td>
+  <td class="right_br">6,404</td>
+  <td class="right_br">6s. to &pound;2 15s.</td>
+  <td class="right">15 00</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="brb">Wolverine</td>
+  <td class="right_brb">1,770</td>
+  <td class="right_brb">320</td>
+  <td class="right_brb">2,090</td>
+  <td class="right_brb">8s. to &pound;1 1s.</td>
+  <td class="right_bb">15 00</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center">
+<a name="page_283"><span class="page">Page 283</span></a>
+AMERICAN FUR SKINS&mdash;TABLE OF VALUES*
+</p>
+
+<table style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;
+  border-collapse: collapse;">
+ <tr><th class="btb">&nbsp;</th>
+  <th class="btrb">&nbsp;</th>
+  <th class="btrb">Prime.</th>
+  <th class="btrb">Seconds.</th>
+  <th class="btrb">Thirds.</th>
+  <th class="btrb">Fourths</th></tr>
+ <tr><td>Badger</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">$1.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">$0.50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">$0.10</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Bear, Black</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">18.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">9.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Cub</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">10.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">5.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Brown</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">7.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">4.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Beaver, California</td>
+  <td class="br">per lb.</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.25</td>
+  <td class="right_br">75</td>
+  <td class="right_br">50</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Southern</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">75</td>
+  <td class="right_br">40</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   Upper Missouri</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.75</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">50</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   Lake Supr. and Canada.</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2.50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.75</td>
+  <td class="right_br">75</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Cat, Wild</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">40</td>
+  <td class="right_br">10</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; House</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">15</td>
+  <td class="right_br">10</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Deer, Florida</td>
+  <td class="br">per lb.</td>
+  <td class="right_br">20</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Missouri</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">20</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Elk and Moose</td>
+  <td class="br">per lb.</td>
+  <td class="right_br">35</td>
+  <td class="right_br">25</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Fisher, Southern</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">7.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">5.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   Eastern and Canada</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">10.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">8.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2.00</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Fox, Silver</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">100.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">25.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Cross</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">3.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Blue</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">15.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">5.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; White</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">3.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Red</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.75</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">75</td>
+  <td class="right">25</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Gray</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">3.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">50</td>
+  <td class="right">25</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Kitt</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">25</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Lynx, Minnesota</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2.50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Canada</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">4.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Marten, Dark</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">10.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">6.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2.00</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   Small Pale</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">50</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Mink, Southern</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">25</td>
+  <td class="right">10</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Western</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.25</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">50</td>
+  <td class="right">10</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Middle States</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.25</td>
+  <td class="right_br">50</td>
+  <td class="right">10</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Minnesota</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2.50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">75</td>
+  <td class="right">20</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; New England</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">3.50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.75</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right">20</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Quebec and Halifax</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">4.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right">20</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Muskrat, Southern</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">28</td>
+  <td class="right_br">25</td>
+  <td class="right_br">15</td>
+  <td class="right">5</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   Western</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">30</td>
+  <td class="right_br">28</td>
+  <td class="right_br">18</td>
+  <td class="right">6</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   Northern</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">32</td>
+  <td class="right_br">30</td>
+  <td class="right_br">20</td>
+  <td class="right">8</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   Eastern</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">35</td>
+  <td class="right_br">30</td>
+  <td class="right_br">22</td>
+  <td class="right">10</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Opossum, Ohio</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">30</td>
+  <td class="right_br">20</td>
+  <td class="right_br">10</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   Southern</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">20</td>
+  <td class="right_br">10</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Otter, Southern</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">5.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">3.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2.00</td>
+  <td class="right">50</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Northern</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">10.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">6.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">2.00</td>
+  <td class="right">50</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Rabbit</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">3</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Raccoon, Southern</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">30</td>
+  <td class="right_br">15</td>
+  <td class="right">5</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   Western</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">20</td>
+  <td class="right">5</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+   Michigan</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.25</td>
+  <td class="right_br">80</td>
+  <td class="right_br">30</td>
+  <td class="right">5</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Seal, Hair</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">60</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Fur</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">10.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Skunk, Black Cased</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">60</td>
+  <td class="right_br">40</td>
+  <td class="right">10</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Half Stripe</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">60</td>
+  <td class="right_br">50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">25</td>
+  <td class="right">10</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; White</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">20</td>
+  <td class="right_br">10</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Wolf, Timber</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">3.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.50</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Prairie</td>
+  <td class="br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_br">1.00</td>
+  <td class="right_br">75</td>
+  <td class="right_br">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="bb">Wolverine</td>
+  <td class="brb">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_brb">5.00</td>
+  <td class="right_brb">2.00</td>
+  <td class="right_brb">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="right_bb">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td colspan="6" class="center">
+  * From the "Hat Cap and Fur Trade Review."</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_284"><span class="page">Page 284</span></a>
+Notwithstanding all these advertised prices, the young trapper
+often experiences great difficulty in a profitable disposal of his
+furs. Like every other business, the fur trade runs in its regular
+grooves, and the average furrier will often pay an experienced
+professional five dollars for a skin for which he would not offer a
+<i>dollar</i> to an amateur. This certainly seems discouraging, but
+the knowledge of the fact is calculated to prevent <i>greater</i>
+discouragement.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We often see fancy prices advertised by fur dealers for first-class
+skins; but when the furs are sent, only a few are selected as
+"<i>prime</i>," the rest being rejected as worthless, or perhaps
+meeting with a meagre offer far below the regular rates. In this
+way the dealers have the opportunity of choice selection without
+incurring any risk. Many a young trapper has been thus disappointed,
+and has seen his small anticipated fortune dwindle down to very
+small proportions.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The fur trade is supplied through regular professional channels;
+and in giving our advice to the novice, we would recommend as the
+most satisfactory and profitable plan that he should make his sales
+to some local hunter or trapper, who has had experience with the fur
+trade, and who is satisfied to pay a fair price for the various skins
+with the probability of selling at an advance, and thus realizing
+a profit.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In nearly every trapping locality such men are to be found, and
+although the prices earned may be below the market rates, the amateur
+takes none of the speculative risks of the business, and should
+be willing to take lower prices on this account.
+</p>
+
+<h4>AMERICAN FUR SKINS&mdash;THEIR USES AT HOME AND ABROAD.</h4>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the early history of fur apparel, its use was determined by
+<i>climate</i>; to-day, and especially in this country, it is regulated
+by the caprice of <i>fashion</i>. The mink for many years took
+the lead in the list of fashionable furs, but has of late been
+superseded by the introduction of the fur seal. The most choice
+and costly of our American furs at the present day is the Silver
+Fox. When highly dressed they are worth from 10 to 50 guineas each
+in the European market. They are principally bought by the Russians
+and Chinese.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The skins of the Red Fox are purchased by the Chinese, Greeks,
+Persians, and other Oriental nations. They are made into linings
+for robes, etc., and ornamented with the black fur of the paws
+which is set on in spots or waves. The fur of the
+<a name="page_285"><span class="page">Page 285</span></a>
+Beaver was formerly highly prized in the manufacture of hats. and
+yielded a large portion of the profits of the Fur Companies,
+constituting the largest item in value among furs. Cheaper materials
+have since been substituted in making hats, and the demand for
+this purpose has been greatly reduced. By a new process the skin
+is now prepared as a handsome fur for collars and gauntlets, and
+its fine silky wool has been successfully woven. The soft, white
+fur from the belly of the animal, is largely used in France for
+bonnets.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Raccoon skins are the great staple for Russia and Germany, where,
+on account of their durability and cheapness, they are in demand
+for linings for coats, etc. Among the Bear skins, those of the
+black and grizzly are extensively used for military caps, housings,
+holsters, sleigh robes, etc.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The fur of the Lynx is soft, warm and light, and is commonly dyed
+of a beautiful shining black. It is used for the facings and linings
+of cloaks, chiefly in America.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Fisher yields a dark and full fur which is largely used in
+fashionable winter apparel.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The skin of the Marten, is richly dyed and utilized in choice furs
+and trimmings.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Mink, like the two foregoing, belongs to the same genus as
+the Russian Sable, and its fur so much resembles the latter as to
+be sometimes mistaken for it. It is one of fashion's furs, and the
+hair of the tail is sometimes used in the manufacture of artist's
+pencils.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Muskrat produces the fur most worn by the masses, and is largely
+exported into Germany, France and England. It is estimated that
+over six millions of muskrat skins are annually taken in America,
+and of that number one-half are used in Germany alone.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The skin of the Otter is at present classed among the leading
+fashionable furs in this country. They are dyed of a deep purplish
+black color, and are made into sacques, muffs, etc. It is also
+used by the Russians, Greeks and Chinese. It is mostly an American
+product, but is also procured to some extent in the British Isles
+from a smaller variety of the species.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The skins of the Wolf are chiefly used for sleigh robes and such
+purposes. The fur of the Rabbit is mainly employed in the manufacture
+of felt, and is also utilized for lining and trimming. The business
+of breeding rabbits for their fur has been introduced into the
+United States, and large numbers have been successfully raised in
+Danbury, Conn., for felting purposes connected with the manufacture
+of hats.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_286"><span class="page">Page 286</span></a>
+The fur of the Wolverine or Glutton, finds a market for the most
+part in Germany, where it is used for trimmings and cloak linings.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Skunk furnishes the fur known as Alaska Sable, which forms
+one of our staple pelts, many thousands being annually exported
+to Poland and the adjacent provinces.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Badger yields a valuable and fashionable fur, which is also
+extensively used in the manufacture of artist's brushes; a good
+"badger blender" forming a valuable accessory to a painter's outfit.
+Shaving brushes by the thousand are annually made from the variegated
+hair of the badger.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Opossum yields a fur in very common use among the masses, and
+the skins of the domestic Cat are utilized to a considerable extent
+in the manufacture of robes, mats, etc. The fur of the Puma and Wild
+Cat are also employed in this form, and may often be seen handsomely
+mounted and hanging on the backs of sleighs on our fashionable
+thoroughfares. Among the small game the skins of Squirrels are used
+for linings, and the soft, velvety fur of the Mole is manufactured
+into light robes, and very fine hats, and in theatrical paraphernalia
+is sometimes employed for artificial eyebrows.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Full descriptions of the color of the various furs will be found
+in our lengthy illustrated chapter on our American animals.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<a name="page_287">
+<img src="images/fig144.jpg" width="299" height="373" alt="THE END.">
+</a>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<a name="page_289"><span class="page">Page 289</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig145.jpg" width="146" height="205" alt="INDEX.">
+</div>
+
+<p class="subtitle">A</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Adirondack experiences with mosquitoes, <a href="#page_256">256</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Advice to the Novice on the sale of Furs,
+<a href="#page_283">283</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Air-tight Jar, for butter, &amp;c., <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Alaska Sable, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.&mdash;See also Skunk.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Alcohol, its use and abuse, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Alum&mdash;used in waterproofing, <a href="#page_249">249</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Amateur Trapping," <a href="#page_225">225</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+AMBER, OIL OF, used in the art of Trapping,
+ <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+AMERICAN FUR SKINS.&mdash;Table of values,
+ <a href="#page_284">284</a>.<br />
+Their uses at Home and Abroad, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+American Lion.&mdash;See Puma.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Amputation, self inflicted, as a means of escape with captured
+animals, <a href="#page_144">144</a>.<br />
+To prevent, <a href="#page_144">144</a>,
+<a href="#page_145">145</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Ancient uses of Furs, <a href="#page_278">278</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+ANISE, OIL OF.&mdash;<br />
+Its use in the art of trapping, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.<br />
+As bait for fish, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Annual yield of Furs throughout the world,
+<a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Apparatus for stretching skins, <a href="#page_273">273</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Arrows, poisoned, <a href="#page_26">26</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Arrow Traps, <a href="#page_23">23</a>, <a href="#page_25">25</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Artificial Eyebrows of Mole Fur, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+ART OF TRAPPING, <a href="#page_148">148</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+ASSAF&OElig;TIDA.&mdash;<br />
+Its use by the Trapper, <a href="#page_151">151</a>.<br />
+As scent bait for fish, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+ASTOR, JOHN JACOB, and the Fur Trade, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Astringent Preparations, use of, in drying Skins,
+<a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_276">276</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">B</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BADGER, THE,&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_175">175</a>.<br />
+Skinning the, <a href="#page_177">177</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_175">175</a>.<br />
+Uses of Fur, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br />
+Value of Fur, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Bags, Waterproof, for food, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Baiting the Steel Trap, <a href="#page_143">143</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Baits for fishing, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Baits, scent, <a href="#page_149">149</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Bait, Trapping without, <a href="#page_148">148</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BARK SHANTY.&mdash;<br />
+Hints on, <a href="#page_266">266</a>.<br />
+Details of construction, <a href="#page_245">245</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Bark-Stone.&mdash;See Castoreum.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Bark-Stone composition.&mdash;See Castoreum.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Barque."&mdash;See Birch Bark Canoe.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Barrel Hoops used in canoe building, <a href="#page_264">264</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BARREL TRAPS, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a>,
+<a href="#page_133">133</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Basket for the shoulders, <a href="#page_234">234</a>,
+<a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Basswood-bark canoes, <a href="#page_264">264</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Bateaux, <a href="#page_264">264</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BAT FOWLING NET, <a href="#page_70">70</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Baking, recipe for, <a href="#page_253">253</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Bay Lynx.&mdash;See Wild Cat.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Beans as food, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BEAR.&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_168">168</a>,
+<a href="#page_227">227</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_168">168</a>.<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>,
+<a href="#page_143">143</a>.<br />
+Various species of, <a href="#page_168">168</a>.<br />
+Directions for removing skin, <a href="#page_172">172</a>.<br />
+Use of skin, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Bear Tamer," <a href="#page_137">137</a>,
+<a href="#page_142">142</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Bear Chasing," dangers of the sport, <a href="#page_170">170</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+<a name="page_290"><span class="page">Page 290</span></a>
+Bear Grease, <a href="#page_171">171</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Bear Meat, to roast, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+to dry, <a href="#page_237">237</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BEAVER.&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_177">177</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_177">177</a>.<br />
+Skinning the, <a href="#page_182">182</a>.<br />
+Skin, to tan, <a href="#page_277">277</a>.<br />
+Use of fur, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BEDS AND BEDDING, <a href="#page_248">248</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Bed, spring, <a href="#page_248">248</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;hammock, swinging,
+<a href="#page_249">249</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Bed clothes, <a href="#page_249">249</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BIG HORN, the, <a href="#page_220">220</a>.<br />
+As food, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_220">220</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_220">220</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BIRCH BARK CANOE, remarks on, <a href="#page_226">226</a>.<br />
+Directions for making, <a href="#page_261">261</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Bird-Catching Net, <a href="#page_70">70</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BIRD LIME, <a href="#page_97">97</a>.<br />
+Masticated Wheat used as, <a href="#page_99">99</a>.<br />
+Recipe for making, <a href="#page_98">98</a>.<br />
+Used in capture of Puma, <a href="#page_35">35</a>.<br />
+Used for capture of Humming Bird, <a href="#page_99">99</a>.<br />
+Used in making Fly-paper, <a href="#page_136">136</a>.<br />
+Used with an Owl as decoy, <a href="#page_98">98</a>.<br />
+With paper cone, as a Crow trap, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BIRD TRAPS, <a href="#page_65">65</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Box, <a href="#page_88">88</a>,
+<a href="#page_90">90</a>. <a href="#page_91">91</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BIRD WHISTLE, <a href="#page_72">72</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BISON.&mdash;See Buffalo.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Black Fly.&mdash;See "Punkey."</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Blanket, woollen, <a href="#page_250">250</a>.<br />
+Rubber, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.<br />
+Use of, <a href="#page_250">250</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Block-tin, used for kettles, &amp;c., <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Blossom, utilized as a trap, <a href="#page_99">99</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Blow-gun, used in the capture of Humming Bird,
+<a href="#page_99">99</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BOARD FLAP, the, <a href="#page_130">130</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BOARD STRETCHERS, <a href="#page_273">273</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BOATS, remarks on, <a href="#page_226">226</a>.<br />
+Manufacture of, <a href="#page_259">259</a>.<br />
+The dug-out, or log canoe, <a href="#page_259">259</a>.<br />
+The birch-bark canoe, <a href="#page_261">261</a>.<br />
+The bateau, <a href="#page_264">264</a>.<br />
+The scow, <a href="#page_267">267</a>.<br />
+The flat-bottomed boat, <a href="#page_267">267</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Boiled Mush, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;to
+fry, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Boiling water used in bending wood, <a href="#page_268">268</a>,
+<a href="#page_272">272</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Book I. TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME, <a href="#page_17">17</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;II. SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS,
+<a href="#page_39">39</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;III. TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME,
+<a href="#page_65">65</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;IV. MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS,
+<a href="#page_103">103</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;V. HOUSEHOLD TRAPS,
+<a href="#page_125">125</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VI. STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING,
+<a href="#page_137">137</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VII. THE CAMPAIGN, <a href="#page_225">225</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;VIII. THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY,
+<a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Boots, hints on, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.<br />
+Grease for, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Bottle Lantern, <a href="#page_241">241</a>.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Match Safe,
+<a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BOW STRETCHER, for skins, <a href="#page_274">274</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BOW Traps, <a href="#page_23">23</a>, <a href="#page_25">25</a>,
+<a href="#page_116">116</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BOWL TRAPS, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Box Bird Traps, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>,
+<a href="#page_90">90</a>, <a href="#page_91">91</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BOX DEAD FALL, <a href="#page_128">128</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Box Hut, used in Pickerel fishing, <a href="#page_241">241</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BOW OWL TRAP, <a href="#page_88">88</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BOX PIT-FALL, <a href="#page_131">131</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BOX SNARES, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_56">56</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BOX TRAP, the, <a href="#page_103">103</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Two modes of setting, <a href="#page_105">105</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Box Traps, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_56">56</a>,
+<a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a>,
+<a href="#page_91">91</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>,
+<a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>,
+<a href="#page_110">110</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+BOX TRAP, pendent, <a href="#page_91">91</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Brandy on a trapping campaign, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Brass wire nooses, <a href="#page_41">41</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Brick Trap, <a href="#page_66">66</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Broiling, recipes for, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Brook Trout, fishing through the ice, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;To cook deliciously,
+<a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Bruises, ointment for, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Buckskin gloves, in handling traps, <a href="#page_149">149</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Building the camp fire, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Buffalo, the, <a href="#page_220">220</a>.<br />
+As food, <a href="#page_221">221</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>,<br />
+How hunted and trapped, <a href="#page_221">221</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Building boats, <a href="#page_259">259</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Butternut log, for canoe, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Butter, to keep on a campaign, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">C</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Cage traps for birds, <a href="#page_76">76</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"
+&nbsp;&nbsp;mice, <a href="#page_134">134</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Call Birds, how used, <a href="#page_72">72</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS, <a href="#page_225">225</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+CAMPAIGN, PLAN OF, <a href="#page_225">225</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Camp fire, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.<br />
+To build, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Camp Kettle, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Knife, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Stove, <a href="#page_228">228</a>,
+<a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Canada Grouse, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lynx.&mdash;See Lynx.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Moose.&mdash;See Moose.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Candles, in camp, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Novel way of using,
+<a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+<a name="page_291"><span class="page">Page 291</span></a>
+Canned vegetables, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+CANOES, remarks on, <a href="#page_226">226</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Basswood-bark,
+<a href="#page_264">264</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Birch-bark,
+directions for building, <a href="#page_261">261</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hemlock bark,
+<a href="#page_264">264</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Log.&mdash;See Dug-out.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Spruce bark,
+<a href="#page_264">264</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Canton flannel bags, for bed clothes, <a href="#page_249">249</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Canvass-back Duck, as food, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Canvas bags, waterproof, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Caps, percussion, used in lighting fire,
+<a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+CAPTURE OF ANIMALS, <a href="#page_154">154</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+CARPETING TENTS, <a href="#page_250">250</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+CASTOREUM, or Barkstone, <a href="#page_150">150</a>.<br />
+How obtained, <a href="#page_150">150</a>.<br />
+How used.&mdash;See Beaver.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+CASTOREUM COMPOSITION, <a href="#page_150">150</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Cat, domestic, use of skin, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Cat, wild.&mdash;See Wild Cat.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Caulking boats, <a href="#page_261">261</a>,
+<a href="#page_266">266</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Caution in baiting steel traps, <a href="#page_113">113</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Caution in handling steel traps, <a href="#page_149">149</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Chill, remedy for, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Chimney-fire in log shanty, <a href="#page_245">245</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Chip as a plate, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Chip, for a frying pan, <a href="#page_230">230</a>,
+<a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Chloride of Lime, as an antidote, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Choosing a trapping ground, <a href="#page_225">225</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Cicely, Sweet, as scent bait in fishing,
+<a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Cities built up by the fur trade, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+CLAP NET, <a href="#page_72">72</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Clearing tents and shanties from insects,
+<a href="#page_230">230</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Climate and fur apparel, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+CLOG, THE, <a href="#page_146">146</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Cloth for tent making, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Waterproof preparation for,
+<a href="#page_247">247</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Clothing, hints on, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Coasting on the Indian sled, <a href="#page_270">270</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Cock of the plains, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Coffee, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Coffee-pot, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Cold, remedy for, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Combination camp-knife, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+COMMON BOX TRAP, <a href="#page_103">103</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Compass, pocket, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Compound scent-bait, <a href="#page_150">150</a>,
+<a href="#page_153">153</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Concealing steel traps, <a href="#page_229">229</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Cone of paper as a trap, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Corrall, African trap, <a href="#page_34">34</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+COOKING UTENSILS FOR A CAMPAIGN, <a href="#page_230">230</a>,
+<a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Coon.&mdash;See Raccoon.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+COOP TRAP, <a href="#page_67">67</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;" For large game, <a href="#page_33">33</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Cotton drilling, used for making tents, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Waterproof preparation for,
+<a href="#page_247">247</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Cotton Tail."&mdash;See Rabbit.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Cougar.&mdash;See Puma.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Cow's udder, as fish bait, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Crackers as food, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Crow trap, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+CUMMIN, used in trapping, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Cup, portable, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+CURING SKINS, <a href="#page_272">272</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Current price list of American furs, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">D</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Dark lantern, used by bird catchers, <a href="#page_71">71</a>.<br />
+Deer hunters, <a href="#page_217">217</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+DEAD-FALLS, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>,
+<a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a>,
+<a href="#page_113">113</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Box, <a href="#page_128">128</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;For large game, <a href="#page_17">17</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;How set for the fox,
+<a href="#page_113">113</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Stone, <a href="#page_29">29</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Weighted harpoon,
+<a href="#page_26">26</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;With figure four trap,
+<a href="#page_114">114</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Dead fish, valuable in making trails, <a href="#page_153">153</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Decoys, <a href="#page_72">72</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>,
+<a href="#page_94">94</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Decoy traps, <a href="#page_72">72</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>,
+<a href="#page_94">94</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Whistle, <a href="#page_74">74</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Owl used as, <a href="#page_98">98</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+DEER, <a href="#page_124">124</a>.<br />
+As food, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>,
+<a href="#page_238">238</a>.<br />
+How to skin the, <a href="#page_219">219</a>.<br />
+Hunting at night, <a href="#page_217">217</a>,
+<a href="#page_218">218</a>.<br />
+Luminosity of eyes at night, <a href="#page_217">217</a>,
+<a href="#page_218">218</a>.<br />
+Natural characteristics of, <a href="#page_214">214</a>.<br />
+Salt as bait for, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.<br />
+Season for hunting, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_214">214</a>,
+<a href="#page_215">215</a>.<br />
+Various modes of hunting, <a href="#page_217">217</a>.<br />
+Various species of, <a href="#page_215">215</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Deer lick, the, <a href="#page_215">215</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Deer meat, to dry, <a href="#page_237">237</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Deer meat, to roast, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Delmonico outdone, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Detecting the direction of the wind by the finger,
+<a href="#page_217">217</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Devices used in connection with the steel trap,
+<a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Devils' Lantern, <a href="#page_241">241</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Diet of the Trapper, <a href="#page_230">230</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"DOUBLE ENDER," the, <a href="#page_109">109</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Double traps, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>,
+<a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+DOWN FALL, the, <a href="#page_26">26</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Dressing for fur skins, <a href="#page_273">273</a>,
+<a href="#page_276">276</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Dressing for leather, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Dressing skins for market, <a href="#page_272">272</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Home use, <a href="#page_276">276</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Dried fish, <a href="#page_237">237</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Dried venison, <a href="#page_237">237</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Drilling, as tent material, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Waterproof preparation for,
+<a href="#page_247">247</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+<a name="page_292"><span class="page">Page 292</span></a>
+Drinking cup, portable, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Drying skins, <a href="#page_272">272</a>,
+<a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_276">276</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Ducks, various species of, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.<br />
+As food, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.<br />
+To cook deliciously, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+DUCK TRAPS, <a href="#page_94">94</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"DUG-OUT," THE, hints on, <a href="#page_226">226</a>.<br />
+Detailed directions for making, <a href="#page_259">259</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">E</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Eels, oil prepared from, <a href="#page_151">151</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Elk.&mdash;See Moose.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Ephraim."&mdash;See Bear.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Escaping from the mosquitoes, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Exports of furs, <a href="#page_281">281</a>,
+<a href="#page_285">285</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Extemporized frying pan, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.<br />
+"Toaster," <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Extract of beef, Liebig's, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Extravagance in fur apparel, <a href="#page_279">279</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">F</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+False bottom traps, <a href="#page_127">127</a>,
+<a href="#page_131">131</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fashion and fur, <a href="#page_279">279</a>,
+<a href="#page_283">283</a>, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+FEATHERED GAME, TRAPS FOR, <a href="#page_65">65</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Felt, use of rabbit-fur in making, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+FENNEL, OIL OF, used in trapping, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+FENUGREEK, OIL OF, used in trapping, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+FIGURE FOUR SNARE, <a href="#page_61">61</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+FIGURE FOUR TRAP, <a href="#page_107">107</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Used with Dead-Fall,
+<a href="#page_114">114</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Finger, as a weather vane, <a href="#page_217">217</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fire, to build, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;To light without matches,
+<a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;With powder and cap,
+<a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Without "anything,"
+<a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fire arms, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Oil for, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fire bottle, <a href="#page_241">241</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fire Hat for night hunting, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fire-proof preparations for tents, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fish, to bake, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.<br />
+To dry, <a href="#page_237">237</a>.<br />
+To fry, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+FISHER MARTEN.&mdash;<br />
+How to trap the animal, <a href="#page_194">194</a>.<br />
+Its nature and habits, <a href="#page_194">194</a>.<br />
+Its common mode of release from capture,
+<a href="#page_144">144</a>.<br />
+Method of skinning, <a href="#page_195">195</a>.<br />
+Use of skin, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+FISH-HOOK, trap for ducks, <a href="#page_95">95</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fishing, hints on, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.<br />
+At night, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.<br />
+Through the ice, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.<br />
+Various baits, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.<br />
+With tip-up. <a href="#page_240">240</a>.<br />
+For pickerel, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fishing tackle, <a href="#page_227">227</a>,
+<a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fish lantern, <a href="#page_241">241</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+FISH OIL, used in the art of trapping,
+<a href="#page_151">151</a>.<br />
+How obtained, <a href="#page_151">151</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fish, scent baits for, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.<br />
+Spearing, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fish traps, <a href="#page_120">120</a>,
+<a href="#page_241">241</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Flat bottomed boats, <a href="#page_264">264</a>,
+<a href="#page_267">267</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Flat bottomed sled.&mdash;See Toboggan</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Flat stone, as a frying pan, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Flower, converted into a trap, <a href="#page_99">99</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fly, black.&mdash;See "Punkey."</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+FLY-PAPER, to make, <a href="#page_136">136</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fly Tent, the, <a href="#page_246">246</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fly traps, <a href="#page_136">136</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Food, portable, <a href="#page_230">230</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS, <a href="#page_230">230</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"FOOLS' CAP" TRAP FOR CROWS, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Forks, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fortunes founded on peltry, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+FOWLING NET, the, <a href="#page_70">70</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fox.&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_154">154</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_154">154</a>.<br />
+Trapped by a dead-fall, <a href="#page_111">111</a>,
+<a href="#page_113">113</a>.<br />
+Varieties of, <a href="#page_154">154</a>.<br />
+Directions for skinning, <a href="#page_158">158</a>.&mdash;See also
+Red and Silver Fox.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Fox fire," used in capture of deer, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fritters, pork, to cook, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Frying pan, <a href="#page_231">231</a>,
+<a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;An extemporized,
+<a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fur Market, eccentricities of, <a href="#page_283">283</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Furs, ancient uses of, <a href="#page_278">278</a>.<br />
+Annual yield throughout the world, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Furs, best season for, <a href="#page_147">147</a>.<br />
+"Home," <a href="#page_281">281</a>.<br />
+Sale of, by Hudson's Bay Company, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.<br />
+"Shipping," <a href="#page_281">281</a>.<br />
+Table of market values, <a href="#page_282">282</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Fur skins, to cure for market, <a href="#page_272">272</a>.<br />
+To tan, <a href="#page_276">276</a>.<br />
+Hints on selling for profit, <a href="#page_283">283</a>.<br />
+Various uses of, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+FUR TRADE, OBSERVATIONS ON, <a href="#page_278">278</a>.<br />
+Immensity of, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">G</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Game, protected from wolves, <a href="#page_237">237</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+GAROTTE TRAP, <a href="#page_114">114</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Gloves to be used in trapping, <a href="#page_149">149</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Glutton.&mdash;See Wolverine.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+<a name="page_293"><span class="page">Page 293</span></a>
+Gnats, <a href="#page_230">230</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a>.<br />
+Painful effects of their bites, <a href="#page_256">256</a>.<br />
+Remedies for their bites, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.<br />
+Driven away by the "Smudge," <a href="#page_230">230</a>.<br />
+
+<p class="index">
+Gnat, black.&mdash;See "Punkey."</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Goose trap, <a href="#page_75">75</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+GOPHER.&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_205">205</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_205">205</a>.<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_119">119</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a>,
+<a href="#page_40">40</a>.<br />
+Directions for skinning, <a href="#page_206">206</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Grappling iron, the, <a href="#page_146">146</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Grease for boots and shoes, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Great Bear Tamer," the, <a href="#page_142">142</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+GRIZZLY BEAR.&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_169">169</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_169">169</a>.<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>.<br />
+Use of fur, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Ground plan of trapping lines, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Ground, selection for trapping, <a href="#page_225">225</a>,</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+GROUND SNARES, <a href="#page_44">44</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Grouse, as food, <a href="#page_233">233</a>,
+<a href="#page_238">238</a>.<br />
+Bait for, <a href="#page_42">42</a>.<br />
+Oil of, for fire arms, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.<br />
+Peculiarities of, <a href="#page_42">42</a>.<br />
+Snares for, <a href="#page_39">39</a>.<br />
+To cook deliciously, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.<br />
+Various species of, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.<br />
+
+<p class="index">
+GUN TRAP, <a href="#page_20">20</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">H</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hair Nooses, <a href="#page_41">41</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Half tent, <a href="#page_246">246</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hammocks, <a href="#page_250">250</a>,</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hammock bed, <a href="#page_249">249</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Handling steel traps, caution in, <a href="#page_149">149</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hanging bed, <a href="#page_249">249</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hare.&mdash;See Rabbit.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+HARPOON TRAP of Africa, <a href="#page_26">26</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hat Brim, portable, <a href="#page_258">258</a>.<br />
+Netting attachment for, <a href="#page_258">258</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hat lantern for night hunting, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hawk snare, <a href="#page_43">43</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+HAWK TRAP, <a href="#page_93">93</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Head lantern used in deer hunting, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+HEAD NET, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+HEDGE NOOSES, <a href="#page_41">41</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hemlock bark canoes, <a href="#page_264">264</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hemlock boughs, as bedding, <a href="#page_250">250</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hemp, used in caulking boats, <a href="#page_261">261</a>,
+<a href="#page_266">266</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Hiding" steel traps, <a href="#page_229">229</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+High top boots, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hints on baiting the steel trap, <a href="#page_143">143</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hints on selection of trapping ground, <a href="#page_225">225</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hints on skinning animals, <a href="#page_272">272</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hints on trapping, <a href="#page_148">148</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hints on plans of trapping lines, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hints on sale of furs, <a href="#page_283">283</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hippopotamus trap, <a href="#page_26">26</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Historical items relating to furs and the fur trade,
+<a href="#page_278">278</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hoe cake, to cook, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hogs carried off by bears, <a href="#page_170">170</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hog's liver used as fish bait, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Home Furs," <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+HOME-MADE BOAT, <a href="#page_264">264</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Honey as bait, <a href="#page_19">19</a>,
+<a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hook trap for ducks, <a href="#page_95">95</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hopo, African trap, <a href="#page_34">34</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hoop nooses, <a href="#page_40">40</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+HOOP STRETCHER for skins, <a href="#page_275">275</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Horse hair nooses, to make, <a href="#page_41">41</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hot drink for chills, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, <a href="#page_125">125</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+House Tent, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+How to select a steel trap, <a href="#page_138">138</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+HOW TO TRAP, <a href="#page_153">153</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hudson Bay Company, origin of, <a href="#page_280">280</a>.<br />
+Sales of, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Humming bird, killed by concussion, <a href="#page_99">99</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Snare, <a href="#page_99">99</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Trap, <a href="#page_99">99</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Various modes of capture,
+<a href="#page_99">99</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hunting the deer, <a href="#page_217">217</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Hunting from trees, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+HUT, LOG.&mdash;See Log Shanty.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">I</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Implements required on a trapping campaign,
+<a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Improved springle, <a href="#page_60">60</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+INDIAN CANOE.&mdash;See BIRCH BARK CANOE.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Indian meal, as food, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+INDIAN SLEDGE.&mdash;See Toboggan.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+INDIAN SNOW SHOE, <a href="#page_268">268</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+India-rubber blanket, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.<br />
+How used, <a href="#page_250">250</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+INSECT OINTMENTS, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Insect bites, remedies for, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Sores resulting from,
+<a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Insects, to drive out from tent or shanty,
+<a href="#page_230">230</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Intemperance, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">J</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Jack knife, a valuable tool, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Jar, as a trap, <a href="#page_135">135</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+<a name="page_294"><span class="page">Page 294</span></a>
+Jar, air-tight, for butter, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Jerked Venison," <a href="#page_231">231</a>.
+
+<p class="index">
+JOHN JACOB ASTOR, and the fur trade, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Johnny cake, to cook, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">K</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Kettle, camp, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Knapsack, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.<br />
+Directions for making, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Knife, a necessary implement, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Knife, the combination camp, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Knives, table, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">L</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Lake trout, fishing for, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.<br />
+To cook deliciously, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Lantern for the head, used by deer hunters,
+<a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Lantern used by bird catchers, <a href="#page_71">71</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Lantern trap for fish, <a href="#page_241">241</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Large game, traps for, <a href="#page_17">17</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+LAVENDER, used in the art of trapping, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Leather preservative, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Le Chat."&mdash;See Lynx.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Lemonade, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Lens, to light fire with, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Lever for setting large steel traps, <a href="#page_142">142</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Liebig's extract of beef, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Light, the trapper's, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Light for the head in night hunting, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Light home-made boat, <a href="#page_264">264</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Lime, chloride of, as a disinfectant, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Liniment for wounds and bruises, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Insect bites, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Linseed oil, used as bird lime, <a href="#page_98">98</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Lion, American.&mdash;See Puma.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+LIST OF PRICES OF AMBRICAN FURS, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Liver, as fish bait, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+LOG CABIN.&mdash;See Log Shanty.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Log Canoe.&mdash;See Dug-Out.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+LOG COOP TRAP, <a href="#page_33">33</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+LOG SHANTY, hints on, <a href="#page_226">226</a>,
+<a href="#page_229">229</a>.<br />
+Detailed directions for building, <a href="#page_244">244</a>.<br />
+Site for building, <a href="#page_244">244</a>,
+<a href="#page_287">287</a>.<br />
+To clear of gnats and mosquitoes, <a href="#page_230">230</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Lucifer Matches.&mdash;See Matches.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Luxuries," <a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+LYNX, THE CANADIAN, <a href="#page_164">164</a>.<br />
+Natural characteristics of, <a href="#page_164">164</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_164">164</a>.<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_20">20</a>,
+<a href="#page_23">23</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>,
+<a href="#page_33">33</a>, <a href="#page_35">35</a>,
+<a href="#page_141">141</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+LYNX.&mdash;<br />
+Directions for skinning, <a href="#page_166">166</a>.<br />
+Use of skin, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">M</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Mackinaw and the Fur Trade, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Mallard Duck as food, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;to Cook.&mdash;See Duck.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Marmot.&mdash;See Woodchuck.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+MARTEN:&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_192">192</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_192">192</a>.<br />
+Its common mode of escape, <a href="#page_144">144</a>.<br />
+Directions for removing skin, <a href="#page_194">194</a>.<br />
+How to tan the Skin, <a href="#page_277">277</a>.<br />
+Value and use of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>,
+<a href="#page_285">285</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Mastic Varnish used in water-proofing, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+MATCHES, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.<br />
+Bottle used for carrying, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.<br />
+To render water-proof, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Meal, Indian, as food, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Meat, to dry, <a href="#page_237">237</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS, <a href="#page_149">149</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Menagerie Whistle, <a href="#page_74">74</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Merganser, the, as food, <a href="#page_239">239</a>,<br />
+To cook.&mdash;See Duck.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+MIDGETS, <a href="#page_256">256</a>.<br />
+Painful effect of their bites, <a href="#page_256">256</a>.<br />
+Driven away by the "Smudge," <a href="#page_230">230</a>.<br />
+Ointments for bites, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.<br />
+Serious effects of bites on the intemperate,
+<a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+MINK:&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_189">189</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_189">189</a>.<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>.<br />
+Its common mode of escape from the steel trap,
+<a href="#page_144">144</a>.<br />
+Directions for skinning, <a href="#page_191">191</a>.<br />
+To tan skin of, <a href="#page_277">277</a>.<br />
+Extensive use of skins in America, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.<br />
+Uses of skin, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+MISCELLANEOUS hints on trapping, <a href="#page_148">148</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+MISCELLANY, the Trapper's, <a href="#page_255">255</a>,</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, <a href="#page_103">103</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+MOLE, <a href="#page_207">207</a>.<br />
+Beauty of fur, <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_211">211</a>.<br />
+Life and habits of, <a href="#page_207">207</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_119">119</a>,
+<a href="#page_210">210</a>.<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_119">119</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a>,
+<a href="#page_140">140</a>.<br />
+Varieties of, <a href="#page_211">211</a>.<br />
+Directions for skinning.&mdash;See Gopher.<br />
+Use of fur, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+<a name="page_295"><span class="page">Page 295</span></a>
+Montreal and the Fur Trade, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+MOOSE:&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_219">219</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_220">220</a>.<br />
+"Yards," <a href="#page_220">220</a>.<br />
+Flesh as food, <a href="#page_220">220</a>,
+<a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.<br />
+How to skin the animal, <a href="#page_220">220</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Moose meat, to roast, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Meat to dry, <a href="#page_237">237</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+MOSQUITOES, <a href="#page_230">230</a>.<br />
+Painful effects of their bites, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.<br />
+Ointments for bites, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.<br />
+Driven away by the "Smudge," <a href="#page_230">230</a>.<br />
+Adirondack experiences with, <a href="#page_255">255</a>,
+<a href="#page_256">256</a>.<br />
+Head-net, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.<br />
+Serious effects of bites on the intemperate,
+<a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Mouse Traps, <a href="#page_124">124</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a>,
+<a href="#page_131">131</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>,
+<a href="#page_135">135</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Mud Stick or Pusher, <a href="#page_267">267</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Mush, to boil, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;to fry, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+MUSK:&mdash;<br />
+Its use in the art of trapping, <a href="#page_151">151</a>.<br />
+How obtained, <a href="#page_151">151</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+MUSKRAT:&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_182">182</a>.<br />
+Pit-fall Trap for, <a href="#page_133">133</a>.<br />
+Spearing the, <a href="#page_183">183</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_182">182</a>.<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>,
+<a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a>,
+<a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a>,
+<a href="#page_141">141</a>.<br />
+Its common mode of release, <a href="#page_144">144</a>.<br />
+Extensive use of skins in America, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.<br />
+Skin, to remove, <a href="#page_185">185</a>.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;To tan, <a href="#page_277">277</a>.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Use of, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Value of, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Muscovy Duck as food, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.<br />
+To cook.&mdash;See Duck.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Musquaw.&mdash;See Bear.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">N</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Natural Advantages utilized by the Trapper,
+<a href="#page_149">149</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Natural History.<br />
+Necessity of its study in the art of Trapping,
+<a href="#page_148">148</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Neatsfoot Oil for Fire Arms, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+NET:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;" Bat fowling, <a href="#page_70">70</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;" Bird catching, <a href="#page_70">70</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;" Clap, <a href="#page_72">72</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;" Decoy, <a href="#page_72">72</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;" Fish, use of, <a href="#page_241">241</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Net for the head, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Fowling, <a href="#page_70">70</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Net traps, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, <a href="#page_73">73</a>,
+<a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>,
+<a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_85">85</a>.<br />
+For Tiger, Puma, or Wild Cat, <a href="#page_35">35</a>.<br />
+Spring, <a href="#page_80">80</a>.<br />
+The upright, <a href="#page_85">85</a>.<br />
+Wild Duck, <a href="#page_94">94</a>.<br />
+Wild Goose, <a href="#page_175">175</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Netting attachment for Hat brim, <a href="#page_258">258</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+NEWHOUSE TRAP, THE, <a href="#page_138">138</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Night-hunting, <a href="#page_217">217</a>,
+<a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Night-fishing, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Nooses:&mdash;<br />
+Horse hair, <a href="#page_41">41</a>.<br />
+In hedge, <a href="#page_42">42</a>.<br />
+On hoops, <a href="#page_40">40</a>.<br />
+On string, <a href="#page_40">40</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+NOOSE TRAPS, <a href="#page_39">39</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Nooses, wire, <a href="#page_41">41</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Northwest Fur Company, <a href="#page_280">280</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Nutting in Mid-winter, <a href="#page_212">212</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">O</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oar-locks, simple, <a href="#page_266">266</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oat-meal as food, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE,
+<a href="#page_278">278</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oil, Fish.&mdash;<br />
+Used in trapping, <a href="#page_151">151</a>.<br />
+How obtained, <a href="#page_151">151</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oil of Amber.&mdash;<br />
+Used in the art of trapping, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oil of Ambergris.&mdash;<br />
+Used in the art of trapping, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oil of Anise:&mdash;<br />
+Its use in the art of trapping, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oil of Cinnamon:&mdash;<br />
+Its use in the art of trapping, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oil of Fennel:&mdash;<br />
+Its use in the art of trapping, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oil of Fenugreek:&mdash;<br />
+Its use In the art of trapping, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oil of Lavender:&mdash;<br />
+Its use in the art of trapping, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oil of Rhodium:&mdash;<br />
+Its use by trappers, <a href="#page_151">151</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oil of Skunk:&mdash;<br />
+Its use by trappers, <a href="#page_151">151</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oil:&mdash;<br />
+For fire arms, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.<br />
+For light, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oil of Partridge:&mdash;<br />
+Its use, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Oil of Pennyroyal:&mdash;<br />
+For insect bite, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+<a name="page_296"><span class="page">Page 296</span></a>
+Ointment for Bruises and Wounds, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+OINTMENT FOR INSECT BITES, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE, <a href="#page_58">58</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Olive Oil in cooking, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+OPOSSUM, <a href="#page_201">201</a>.<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_202">202</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_201">201</a>.<br />
+Hunting the, <a href="#page_202">202</a>.<br />
+Directions for skinning, <a href="#page_203">203</a>.<br />
+Uses of skin, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.<br />
+
+<p class="index">
+OTTER:&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_202">202</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_186">186</a>.<br />
+Directions for skinning, <a href="#page_189">189</a>.<br />
+How to tan the skin, <a href="#page_277">277</a>.<br />
+Use of skin, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+OWL TRAP, <a href="#page_88">88</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Owl:&mdash;<br />
+Used in connection with bird lime as decoy,
+<a href="#page_98">98</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">P</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Paint as a water-proof covering, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Painter, the.&mdash;See Puma.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Panther, the.&mdash;See Puma.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Paper Cone used as a trap, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Partridge, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.<br />
+As food, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.<br />
+Fat for fire arms, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.<br />
+Snares, <a href="#page_39">39</a>, etc.<br />
+To cook deliciously, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Peltry:&mdash;<br />
+Fortunes founded on, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.<br />
+Cities built up on, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+PENDENT BOX, BIRD TRAP, <a href="#page_91">91</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Pennyroyal for insect bites, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Pepper Tea as a remedy, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Percussion Cap used in lighting lire, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Peshoo, the.&mdash;See Lynx.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Phosphorescent wood used in night-hunting,
+<a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Phosphorus lantern for catching fish, <a href="#page_241">241</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Pickerel fishing, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Spearing, <a href="#page_241">241</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Trap for, <a href="#page_121">121</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;To cook, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Pigeon Net-trap, <a href="#page_72">72</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Pigs carried off by Bears, <a href="#page_170">170</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Pine Log Canoe.&mdash;See Dug-out.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Pinnated Grouse, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Pitch for stopping leaks, <a href="#page_261">261</a>,
+<a href="#page_264">264</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+PIT-FALL TRAPS.&mdash;<br />
+For large game, <a href="#page_31">31</a>.<br />
+For small game, <a href="#page_125">125</a>,
+<a href="#page_127">127</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a>.<br />
+Barrel, <a href="#page_127">127</a>.<br />
+Box, <a href="#page_131">131</a>.<br />
+For Muskrat, <a href="#page_133">133</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+PLAN OF TRAPPING CAMPAIGN, <a href="#page_225">225</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Plates, substitutes for, <a href="#page_232">232</a>,
+<a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Platform snare. <a href="#page_61">61</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Poachers, or trap robbers, <a href="#page_229">229</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+POACHER'S SNARE, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Pocket compass, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+POCKET HAT BRIM, <a href="#page_258">258</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Sun-glass, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Poisoned arrows, <a href="#page_26">26</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+POISONING, <a href="#page_222">222</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Pop-corn as bait for Quail, <a href="#page_54">54</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Portable boats, <a href="#page_259">259</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Portable food &amp; cooking utensils, <a href="#page_230">230</a>,
+<a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Portable drinking cup, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.<br />
+Hat brim, <a href="#page_258">258</a>.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;" With netting attached,
+<a href="#page_258">258</a>.<br />
+Snares, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a>.<br />
+Stove, <a href="#page_228">228</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Pork as food, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Fritters, <a href="#page_251">251</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;To make,
+<a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Possum."&mdash;See Opossum.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Potatoes as food, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Pouched Rat.&mdash;See Gopher.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Powder used in lighting fire, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Prairie Hen, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Prairie Whistle, <a href="#page_74">74</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Precautions in handling steel traps, <a href="#page_156">156</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+PREFACE, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Preparation of skins for market, <a href="#page_272">272</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Preserve jar used as trap, <a href="#page_135">135</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Price Current of American Furs, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Prime fur, best season for, <a href="#page_147">147</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Prof. Blot outdone in cooking, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Profit in selling furs, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+PRONGHORN Antelope, <a href="#page_221">221</a>.<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_221">221</a>.<br />
+How hunted and trapped, <a href="#page_221">221</a>,
+<a href="#page_238">238</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Provisions, to protect from Wolves, <a href="#page_237">237</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Ptarmigan, to cook, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.<br />
+Trap for, <a href="#page_75">75</a>.<br />
+How hunted and trapped, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.<br />
+Various species of, <a href="#page_230">230</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+PUMA:&mdash;<br />
+Bait for, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_31">31</a>,
+<a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_163">163</a>.<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_161">161</a>.<br />
+Peculiarities of, <a href="#page_20">20</a>.<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_20">20</a>,
+<a href="#page_23">23</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>,
+<a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_33">33</a>,
+<a href="#page_141">141</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_161">161</a>.<br />
+Directions for skinning, <a href="#page_164">164</a>.<br />
+Use of skin, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Pumice Stone, used in finishing skins, <a href="#page_276">276</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"PUNKEY."&mdash;<br />
+Description of the Insect, <a href="#page_256">256</a>.<br />
+Severity of bites, <a href="#page_256">256</a>.<br />
+Ointment for bites, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.<br />
+Serious effects of bites on the intemperate,
+<a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+<a name="page_297"><span class="page">Page 297</span></a>
+Punk Tinder, used in lighting fire, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Pusher."&mdash;See Mud stick.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Putty, for stopping leaks, <a href="#page_261">261</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">Q</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Quail, bait for, <a href="#page_40">40</a>,
+<a href="#page_54">54</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Snares, <a href="#page_39">39</a>,
+<a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_41">41</a>, etc.<br />
+To cook deliciously, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Quotations of the Fur Market, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">R</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+RABBIT:&mdash;<br />
+As food, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.<br />
+Bait for, <a href="#page_203">203</a>.<br />
+How to skin, <a href="#page_204">204</a>.<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_203">203</a>.<br />
+Salt as bait for, <a href="#page_109">109</a>,<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_64">64</a>,
+<a href="#page_103">103</a>.<br />
+Use of fur, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br />
+Value of fur, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.<br />
+Varieties of, <a href="#page_203">203</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+RACCOON:&mdash;<br />
+As a pet, <a href="#page_173">173</a>.<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_172">172</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_172">172</a>.<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>,
+<a href="#page_141">141</a>.<br />
+Hunting the, <a href="#page_172">172</a>.<br />
+Directions for skinning, <a href="#page_175">175</a>.<br />
+How to tan the skin, <a href="#page_277">277</a>.<br />
+Use of the fur, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.<br />
+Value of the fur, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Rat:&mdash;<br />
+Snares for, <a href="#page_43">43</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_125">125</a>.<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_43">43</a>,
+<a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a>,
+<a href="#page_128">128</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a>,
+<a href="#page_138">138</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Rations for a Campaign, <a href="#page_230">230</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Raw Furs.&mdash;See Furs.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Recipe for insect ointments, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.<br />
+Boot grease, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.<br />
+For cooking, <a href="#page_230">230</a>.<br />
+For curing skins, <a href="#page_272">272</a>.<br />
+For tanning skins, <a href="#page_276">276</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Red Fox.&mdash;See Fox.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Red Fox.&mdash;<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.<br />
+Use of skin, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Red Pepper Tea as a remedy, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Red Squirrel.&mdash;See Squirrel.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Remedies for insect bites, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.<br />
+For chills, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Requisites of a good steel trap, <a href="#page_138">138</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;For snaring, <a href="#page_39">39</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;For a good trapping ground,
+<a href="#page_225">225</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;For a trapping campaign,
+<a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Revolver, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Reynard outwitted by a dead-fall, <a href="#page_111">111</a>,
+<a href="#page_113">113</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+RHODIUM, Oil of:&mdash;<br />
+Its use by the trapper, <a href="#page_151">151</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Rice as food, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Rifle and Shot Gun combined, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.<br />
+Oil for, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+RIFLE TRAP, <a href="#page_20">20</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Roasting, recipes for, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Rocky Mountain Sheep.&mdash;See Big Horn.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Roughing it," <a href="#page_230">230</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Rubber blanket, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.<br />
+How used, <a href="#page_250">250</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Ruffed Grouse.&mdash;See Partridge.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Rum on a trapping campaign, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">S</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Sage Cock, the, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Sale of furs by the Hudson's Bay Company,
+<a href="#page_282">282</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Salmon, spearing, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Spear, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Salmon Trout, spearing, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Salmon, to cook deliciously, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Salt as bait for Deer, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.<br />
+As bait for Rabbit, <a href="#page_109">109</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Salt Lick, the, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Sandpaper used in softening skins, <a href="#page_276">276</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Salt Pork as food, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SCENT BAITS, <a href="#page_149">149</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Compound, <a href="#page_150">150</a>,
+<a href="#page_153">153</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Scented baits for birds, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Scented baits for fish, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Season for Deer hunting, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Scow, <a href="#page_267">267</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Season for trapping, <a href="#page_147">147</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Selection of trapping ground, <a href="#page_225">225</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Self-amputation as a means of escape with captured animals,
+<a href="#page_144">144</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Self-amputation, to prevent, <a href="#page_144">144</a>,
+<a href="#page_145">145</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Self-raising flour, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SELF-SETTING TRAPS, <a href="#page_110">110</a>,
+<a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a>,
+<a href="#page_131">131</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SHANTY:&mdash;<br />
+Bark.&mdash;See Bark Shanty.<br />
+"Home."&mdash;See Log Shanty.<br />
+Log.&mdash;See Log Shanty.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Sheeting as tent material, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.<br />
+Water-proof, preparation for, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Shellac Varnish used in water-proofing, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SHELTER:&mdash;The trapper's remarks on, <a href="#page_226">226</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Shelter tent, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.<br />
+Details of construction, <a href="#page_242">242</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Shingle stretchers for skins, <a href="#page_274">274</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+<a name="page_298"><span class="page">Page 298</span></a>
+"Shipping furs," <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SHOOTING AND POISONING, <a href="#page_222">222</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Shot-gun Trap, <a href="#page_20">20</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Shot-gun combined with rifle, <a href="#page_267">267</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Shoulder basket, <a href="#page_234">234</a>,
+<a href="#page_226">226</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SIEVE TRAP, <a href="#page_65">65</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Silver Fox, <a href="#page_154">154</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>,
+<a href="#page_285">285</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Skinning animals, hints on, <a href="#page_272">272</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Skins:&mdash;<br />
+Stretchers for, <a href="#page_273">273</a>.<br />
+To dry, <a href="#page_272">272</a>,
+<a href="#page_276">276</a>.<br />
+To soften, <a href="#page_276">276</a>,
+<a href="#page_277">277</a>.<br />
+To tan, <a href="#page_276">276</a>.<br />
+Value of, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.<br />
+Use of, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SKUNK, <a href="#page_195">195</a>.<br />
+Adventure with, <a href="#page_196">196</a>.<br />
+As food, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_195">195</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_195">195</a>.<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a>,
+<a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>.<br />
+To eradicate odor of, <a href="#page_152">152</a>,
+<a href="#page_198">198</a>.<br />
+Oil of, used in trapping, <a href="#page_151">151</a>.<br />
+Directions for skinning, <a href="#page_198">198</a>.<br />
+Use of skin, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Sled, Indian.&mdash;See Toboggan.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SLIDING POLE, <a href="#page_145">145</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Slippery Elm used for bird-lime, <a href="#page_98">98</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Small Game" as food, <a href="#page_237">237</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Smell, acute sense of, in animals, <a href="#page_148">148</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Smoking the steel trap, <a href="#page_128">128</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Smouldering birch bark to drive away insects,
+<a href="#page_230">230</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Smudge, the, <a href="#page_230">230</a>,
+<a href="#page_256">256</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SNARE.&mdash;<br />
+Box, <a href="#page_55">55</a>.<br />
+Double box, <a href="#page_56">56</a>.<br />
+Fig. Four, <a href="#page_62">62</a>.<br />
+Hawk, <a href="#page_43">43</a>.<br />
+Hedge, <a href="#page_42">42</a>.<br />
+Hoop, <a href="#page_40">40</a>.<br />
+Humming-bird, <a href="#page_99">99</a>.<br />
+Knotted string, <a href="#page_52">52</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>,
+<a href="#page_54">54</a>.<br />
+Pasteboard box, <a href="#page_56">56</a>.<br />
+Platform, <a href="#page_61">61</a>.<br />
+Poacher's, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.<br />
+Portable, <a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_50">50</a>,
+<a href="#page_52">52</a>.<br />
+Quail, <a href="#page_53">53</a>.<br />
+Rat, <a href="#page_43">43</a>.<br />
+"Simplest," <a href="#page_52">52</a>.<br />
+Springle, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>.<br />
+Stovepipe, <a href="#page_120">120</a>.<br />
+Tree, <a href="#page_42">42</a>.<br />
+Triangle, <a href="#page_42">42</a>.<br />
+Twitchup, <a href="#page_43">43</a>.<br />
+Wood Chuck, <a href="#page_43">43</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SNARES, OR NOOSE TRAPS, <a href="#page_37">37</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Snaring, requisites for, <a href="#page_39">39</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Snow Grouse, the, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SNOW-SHOES, <a href="#page_267">267</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Snow-shoe race, <a href="#page_267">267</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Softening skins, <a href="#page_276">276</a>,
+<a href="#page_277">277</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Sores resulting from insect bites, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Soups, recipes for, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Spearing fish, <a href="#page_239">239</a>,
+<a href="#page_241">241</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Spearing Muskrats, <a href="#page_183">183</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Spider for cooking, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Spoons, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Spring-bed, <a href="#page_249">249</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SPRINGLE, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Spring-net Traps, <a href="#page_80">80</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Spring-pole, the, <a href="#page_144">144</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Spring, to temper, <a href="#page_84">84</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Spruce Bark Canoes, <a href="#page_264">264</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Spruce boughs as bedding, <a href="#page_250">250</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Spruce Grouse, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SQUIRRELS, <a href="#page_211">211</a>.<br />
+As food, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_211">211</a>.<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>,
+<a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>,
+<a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>,
+<a href="#page_128">128</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>.<br />
+Various species of, <a href="#page_213">213</a>.<br />
+To cook, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.<br />
+Use of skins, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+STEEL TRAPS, <a href="#page_137">137</a>.<br />
+Caution in handling, <a href="#page_149">149</a>.<br />
+Concealing in the woods, <a href="#page_229">229</a>,<br />
+Various modes of setting, <a href="#page_144">144</a>.<br />
+Requisite number for a campaign, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.<br />
+To set for rats, <a href="#page_128">128</a>.<br />
+To select judiciously, <a href="#page_138">138</a>.<br />
+Requisites of, <a href="#page_138">138</a>.<br />
+Hints on baiting, <a href="#page_143">143</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Steel Trap spring, to set with lever, <a href="#page_142">142</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, <a href="#page_137">137</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Still hunting, <a href="#page_217">217</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Stimulants, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Stone Dead-fall, <a href="#page_29">29</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Storing traps in the woods, <a href="#page_229">229</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Stove, portable, <a href="#page_228">228</a>,
+<a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Stovepipe fish-trap, <a href="#page_120">120</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+St. Paul, Minn., and the Fur Trade, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+STRETCHERS FOR SKINS, <a href="#page_273">273</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Strychnine poisoning, <a href="#page_222">222</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Sucker wire nooses, <a href="#page_41">41</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Sugar of lead used in water-proofing, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Sun-glass, <a href="#page_234">234</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Sweet Cicely as bait for fish, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+SWEET FENNEL.&mdash;<br />
+Oil used in trapping, <a href="#page_152">152</a>,</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Sweet Oil and Tar Ointment for insect bites,
+<a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Swinging bed, <a href="#page_249">249</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">
+<a name="page_299"><span class="page">Page 299</span></a>
+T</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Table knife and bowl trap, <a href="#page_135">135</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Table showing sale of furs by Hudson Bay Company,
+<a href="#page_282">282</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tallow, mutton, as ointment, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tame Geese as decoys, <a href="#page_75">75</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+TANNING SKINS, <a href="#page_276">276</a>.<br />
+Mixtures, <a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_277">277</a>,
+<a href="#page_278">278</a>.<br />
+With the hair on, <a href="#page_276">276</a>.<br />
+Simple, <a href="#page_278">278</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tar and Sweet Oil ointment for insect bites,
+<a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tar for water-proofing, <a href="#page_264">264</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tea, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Red pepper, as a remedy,
+<a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Teal Ducks as food, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.<br />
+To cook.&mdash;See Duck.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Telescope" Drinking Cup, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tempering iron spring, <a href="#page_84">84</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+TENTS, <a href="#page_246">246</a>.<br />
+House-tent, <a href="#page_246">246</a>.<br />
+Fly-tent, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.<br />
+Half-tent, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.<br />
+Shelter-tent, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.<br />
+Materials, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.<br />
+Water-proof preparation for, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.<br />
+Fire-proof preparation for, <a href="#page_247">247</a>.<br />
+To carpet with spruce, <a href="#page_250">250</a>.<br />
+To clear of gnats and musquitoes, <a href="#page_230">230</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+TENT CARPETING, <a href="#page_250">250</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Thimble used with bowl as Mouse trap, <a href="#page_136">136</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tiger captured with bird lime, <a href="#page_35">35</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tiger trap, <a href="#page_31">31</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tinder, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tip-ups, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Toaster, an extemporized, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+TOBOGGAN, OR INDIAN SLEDGE, <a href="#page_269">269</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tools required on a trapping campaign, <a href="#page_227">227</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tools required for canoe building, <a href="#page_259">259</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Torch for the head, used in night hunting,
+<a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+"Touch-wood " used in lighting fire, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Trail. The.&mdash;<br />
+Its value to the trapper, <a href="#page_153">153</a>.<br />
+Various modes of making, <a href="#page_153">153</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+TRAP.&mdash;<br />
+Arrow, <a href="#page_23">23</a>, <a href="#page_25">25</a>.<br />
+Barrel. <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a>.<br />
+Bird, <a href="#page_65">65</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>,
+<a href="#page_73">73</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>,
+<a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a>,
+<a href="#page_91">91</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.<br />
+Bow, <a href="#page_23">23</a>, <a href="#page_25">25</a>,
+<a href="#page_116">116</a>.<br />
+Bowl, <a href="#page_135">135</a>.<br />
+Box, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_56">56</a>,
+<a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a>,
+<a href="#page_91">91</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>,
+<a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>,
+<a href="#page_110">110</a>.<br />
+Brick, <a href="#page_66">66</a>.<br />
+Cage, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>.<br />
+Cob house, <a href="#page_67">67</a>.<br />
+Coon, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>,
+<a href="#page_141">141</a>.<br />
+Coop, <a href="#page_33">33</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>,
+<a href="#page_70">70</a>.<br />
+Crow, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.<br />
+Dead-fall, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>,
+<a href="#page_111">111</a>.<br />
+Decoy, <a href="#page_72">72</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>,
+<a href="#page_94">94</a>.<br />
+Double ender, <a href="#page_109">109</a>.<br />
+Down-fall, <a href="#page_26">26</a>.<br />
+Duck, <a href="#page_94">94</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a>.<br />
+Fish, <a href="#page_120">120</a>.<br />
+Fish hook, <a href="#page_95">95</a>.<br />
+Fly, <a href="#page_136">136</a>.<br />
+Fool's-cap, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.<br />
+Garotte, <a href="#page_114">114</a>.<br />
+Gun, <a href="#page_20">20</a>.<br />
+Harpoon, <a href="#page_26">26</a>.<br />
+Hawk, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a>.<br />
+Hook, <a href="#page_95">95</a>.<br />
+Jar, <a href="#page_135">135</a>.<br />
+Mole, <a href="#page_119">119</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a>.<br />
+Mouse, <a href="#page_130">130</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a>,
+<a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>.<br />
+Net, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, <a href="#page_73">73</a>,
+<a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>,
+<a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_85">85</a>.<br />
+Owl, <a href="#page_88">88</a>.<br />
+Partridge, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, etc.<br />
+Pendent Box, <a href="#page_91">91</a>.<br />
+Pitfall, <a href="#page_xv">11</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>,
+<a href="#page_127">127</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a>.<br />
+Ptarmigan, <a href="#page_75">75</a>.<br />
+Quail, <a href="#page_39">39</a>, <a href="#page_40">40</a>,
+<a href="#page_41">41</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>.<br />
+Rabbit, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_64">64</a>,
+<a href="#page_103">103</a>.<br />
+Rat, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>,
+<a href="#page_127">127</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a>,
+<a href="#page_131">131</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>.<br />
+Rifle, <a href="#page_20">20</a>.<br />
+Self-setting, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>,
+<a href="#page_127">127</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a>.<br />
+Sieve, <a href="#page_65">65</a>.<br />
+Spring net, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>,
+<a href="#page_85">85</a>.<br />
+Steel, <a href="#page_140">140</a>.<br />
+The "Newhouse," <a href="#page_140">140</a>.<br />
+Tree, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, <a href="#page_91">91</a>.<br />
+Upright net, <a href="#page_85">85</a>.<br />
+Wild Duck, <a href="#page_94">94</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a>.<br />
+Wild Goose, <a href="#page_75">75</a>.<br />
+Woodchuck, <a href="#page_43">43</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Trapper's beds and bedding, <a href="#page_248">248</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Cooking utensils,
+<a href="#page_230">230</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Diet, <a href="#page_230">230</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Shelter, <a href="#page_226">226</a>,
+<a href="#page_242">242</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Sled.&mdash;See Toboggan.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+TRAPPING, art of, <a href="#page_148">148</a>.<br />
+Season for, <a href="#page_147">147</a>.<br />
+Miscellaneous hints on, <a href="#page_148">148</a>.<br />
+Campaign, plan of, <a href="#page_225">225</a>.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tools and other requisites,
+<a href="#page_227">227</a>.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ground, selection of,
+<a href="#page_225">225</a>.<br />
+Valuable suggestions on, <a href="#page_228">228</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Trapping Lines, <a href="#page_226">226</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Trap robbers, <a href="#page_220">220</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Traps for large game, <a href="#page_17">17</a>.
+<a name="page_300"><span class="page">Page 300</span></a><br />
+FOR FEATHERED GAME, <a href="#page_65">65</a>.<br />
+HOUSEHOLD, <a href="#page_125">125</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tree hunting, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tree snare, <a href="#page_42">42</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Traps, <a href="#page_42">42</a>,
+<a href="#page_91">91</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+TRIANGLE SNARE, <a href="#page_42">42</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Trout, to cook deliciously, <a href="#page_232">232</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Trumpet Creeper flower used as a trap, <a href="#page_99">99</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Tumbler fly-trap, <a href="#page_136">136</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Twitch-up, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_62">62</a>.<br />
+Poacher's, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.<br />
+Portable, <a href="#page_50">50</a>.<br />
+"Simplest," <a href="#page_52">52</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">U</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+UPRIGHT NET TRAP, <a href="#page_85">85</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Snares <a href="#page_44">44</a>,
+<a href="#page_58">58</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Use and abuse of Alcohol, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Uses of fur skins, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Utensils for cooking, <a href="#page_230">230</a>,
+<a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">V</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Value of fur skins, table of, <a href="#page_262">262</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Various uses of fur skins, <a href="#page_285">285</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Varnish water-proof preparation for preserving matches,
+<a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Vegetables for food on a campaign, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Canned, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Venison as food, <a href="#page_233">233</a>,
+<a href="#page_237">237</a>.<br />
+To roast, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.<br />
+To preserve, <a href="#page_237">237</a>.<br />
+"Jerked," <a href="#page_237">237</a>.<br />
+Dried, <a href="#page_237">237</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="subtitle">W</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Walking on the snow, <a href="#page_267">267</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+War in the fur trade, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Watch crystal as sun glass, <a href="#page_287">287</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Water fowl as food, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Water-proof application for boats, <a href="#page_261">261</a>,
+<a href="#page_264">264</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Canvas bags, for food,
+<a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Match safe, <a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Preparation, <a href="#page_236">236</a>,
+<a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Varnish for matches,
+<a href="#page_234">234</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Water traps, <a href="#page_110">110</a>,
+<a href="#page_120">120</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wedge stretcher for skins, <a href="#page_274">274</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Weighted harpoon trap, <a href="#page_26">26</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wheaten grits as trappers' food, <a href="#page_236">236</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wheat flour as food, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;Self-raising, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wheel form of trapping lines, <a href="#page_229">229</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Whiskey on a trapping campaign, <a href="#page_257">257</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Whip lashes from Woodchuck hide, <a href="#page_204">204</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Whistlebird, <a href="#page_74">74</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+White Birch Canoe, <a href="#page_261">261</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+White-wood log for Dug-out, <a href="#page_259">259</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Widgeon, the, as food, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.<br />
+To cook.&mdash;See Duck.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+WILD CAT:&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_167">167</a>.<br />
+Snares for, <a href="#page_43">43</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_166">166</a>.<br />
+Skinning the, <a href="#page_168">168</a>.<br />
+Uses of skin, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wild Duck, to cook, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wild Duck, traps, <a href="#page_94">94</a>,
+<a href="#page_95">95</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wild Goose as food, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wild Goose to cook, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wild Goose trap, <a href="#page_75">75</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wind, direction of, to detect by the finger,
+<a href="#page_217">217</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Winged vermin, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Winter fishing, <a href="#page_240">240</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wire cage trap for birds, <a href="#page_76">76</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;For mice,
+<a href="#page_134">134</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wire nooses, <a href="#page_41">41</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+WOLF.&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_158">158</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_158">158</a>.<br />
+Poisoning the, <a href="#page_222">222</a>.<br />
+Traps for, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>.<br />
+To protect provisions from, <a href="#page_237">237</a>.<br />
+Varieties of, <a href="#page_158">158</a>.<br />
+Directions for skinning, <a href="#page_161">161</a>.<br />
+Use of skin, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+WOLVERINE:&mdash;<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_199">199</a>,<br />
+<a href="#page_238">238</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_199">199</a>.<br />
+Natural enemy to the Beaver, <a href="#page_200">200</a>.<br />
+Directions for skinning, <a href="#page_201">201</a>.<br />
+Use of skin, <a href="#page_286">286</a>.<br />
+Value of skin, <a href="#page_284">284</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+WOODCHUCK, <a href="#page_204">204</a>.<br />
+As food, <a href="#page_238">238</a>.<br />
+Nature and habits of, <a href="#page_204">204</a>.<br />
+Snare, <a href="#page_205">205</a>.<br />
+Trapping the, <a href="#page_204">204</a>.<br />
+Use of skin, <a href="#page_204">204</a>.<br />
+Smoked from its burrow, <a href="#page_205">205</a>.<br />
+Removing skin of, <a href="#page_205">205</a>.<br />
+
+<p class="index">
+Woodcock, to cook, <a href="#page_233">233</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wood Duck as food, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.<br />
+To cook.&mdash;See Duck.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Woodland beds and bedding, <a href="#page_249">249</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">
+Wounds, ointment for, <a href="#page_255">255</a>.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
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+</body>
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+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of
+Trapping and Trap Making, by William Hamilton Gibson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making
+
+Author: William Hamilton Gibson
+
+Release Date: January 2, 2007 [EBook #17093]
+[This file was first posted on November 18, 2005]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS AND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert J. Hall
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS
+
+AND THE
+
+TRICKS OF TRAPPING
+
+AND
+
+TRAP MAKING
+
+
+CONTAINING
+
+COMPREHENSIVE HINTS ON CAMP SHELTER, LOG HUTS, BARK SHANTIES, WOODLAND
+BEDS AND BEDDING, BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, AND VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS
+ON TRAPPERS' FOOD, ETC. WITH EXTENDED CHAPTERS ON THE TRAPPER'S
+ART, CONTAINING ALL THE "TRICKS" AND VALUABLE BAIT RECIPES OF THE
+PROFESSION; FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE USE OF THE STEEL TRAP, AND
+FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF TRAPS OF ALL KINDS; DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS
+FOR THE CAPTURE OF ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS; VALUABLE RECIPES FOR
+THE CURING AND TANNING OF FUR SKINS, ETC., ETC.
+
+
+BY W. HAMILTON GIBSON
+
+AUTHOR OF "PASTORAL DAYS"
+
+
+_ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR_
+
+
+
+
+[Page 1]
+TO MY BELOVED FRIENDS
+
+MR. AND MRS. F. W. GUNN,
+
+KIND INSTRUCTORS, AND PARTICIPANTS
+
+IN THE
+
+BRIGHTEST JOYS OF MY YOUTH,
+
+THIS BOOK IS
+
+AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY
+
+THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 3]
+[Illustration]
+
+PREFACE
+
+[Illustration: O]f all the various subjects in the catalogue of sports
+and pastimes, there is none more sure of arousing the enthusiasm of
+our American boys generally, than that which forms the title of
+this book. Traps and Trapping, together with its kindred branches,
+always have been and always _will_ be subjects of great interest
+among boys, and particularly so to those who live in the country.
+
+It is a fact to be regretted that we have so few examples of "Boys'
+Books" published in this country. There are a few English works
+of this character, that are very excellent as far as they go, but
+are nevertheless incomplete and unsatisfactory to the wants of
+American boys, dwelling largely on sports which are essentially
+English, and merely touching upon or utterly excluding _other_
+topics which are of the _utmost_ interest to boys of this country.
+In no one of these books, so far as the author of the present volume
+knows, is the subject of Traps considered to any fair extent, and
+those examples which are given, represent only the most common
+and universal varieties already known to the general public.
+
+[Page 4]
+With these facts in mind, the author has entered with zealous enthusiasm
+upon the preparation of a work which shall fill this odd and neglected
+corner in literature, and judging from the reminiscences of his
+own boyish experiences, he feels certain that in placing such a
+volume within reach of the public, he supplies a long felt want
+in the hearts of his boy-friends throughout the land.
+
+Far be it from us in the publication of this volume, to be understood
+as encouraging the wanton destruction of poor innocent animals. Like
+all kindred sports, hunting and fishing for example, the sport of
+Trapping may be perverted and carried to a point where it becomes
+simple cruelty, as is _always_ the case when pursued for the mere
+_excitement_ it brings. If the poor victims are to serve no use
+after their capture, either as food, or in the furnishing of their
+plumage or skins for useful purposes, the sport becomes heartless
+cruelty, and we do not wish to be understood as encouraging it
+under any such circumstances. In its _right_ sense trapping is
+a delightful, healthful, and legitimate sport, and we commend it
+to all our boy-readers.
+
+It shall be the object of the author to produce a thoroughly _practical_
+volume, presenting as far as possible such examples of the trap
+kind as any boy, with a moderate degree of ingenuity, could easily
+construct, and furthermore to illustrate each variety with the
+utmost plainness, supplemented with the most detailed description.
+
+With the exception of all "clap-trap," our volume will embrace
+nearly every known example of the various devices used for the
+capture of Bird, Beast, or Fowl, in all countries, simplifying such
+as are impracticable on account of their complicated structure,
+and modifying others to the peculiar adaptation of the American
+Trapper.
+
+Devices, which inflict cruelty and prolonged suffering, shall,
+as far as possible, be excluded, as this is not a necessary
+qualification in any trap, and should be guarded against wherever
+possible. Following out the suggestion conveyed under the
+[Page 5]
+title of "The Trapper," we shall present full and ample directions
+for baiting traps, selections of ground for setting, and other
+hints concerning the trapping of all our principal game and wild
+animals, valuable either as food or for their fur. In short, our
+book shall form a complete trapper's guide, embracing all necessary
+information on the subject, anticipating every want, and furnishing
+the most complete and fully illustrated volume on this subject
+ever presented to the public. In vain did the author of this work,
+in his younger days, search the book stores and libraries in the
+hopes of finding such a book, and many are the traps and snares
+which necessity forced him to invent and construct for himself, for
+want of just such a volume. Several of these original inventions
+will appear in the present work for the first time in book form,
+and the author can vouch for their excellence, and he might almost
+say, their infallibility, for in their perfect state he has never
+yet found them to "miss" in a single instance.
+
+As the writer's mind wanders back to his boyish days, there is
+one autumn in particular which shines out above all the rest; and
+that was when his traps were first set and were the chief source
+of his enjoyment. The adventurous excitement which sped him on in
+those daily tramps through the woods, and the buoyant, exhilarating
+effect of the exercise can be realized only by those who have had the
+same experience. The hope of success, the fears of disappointment,
+the continual suspense and wonder which fill the mind of the young
+trapper, all combine to invest this sport with a charm known to no
+other. Trapping does not consist merely in the manufacture and setting
+of the various traps. The study of the habits and peculiarities of
+the different game--here becomes a matter of great importance;
+and the study of natural history under these circumstances affords
+a continual source of pleasure and profit.
+
+Among the most useful, although the most cruel, of inventions used
+by the professional trapper are the steel traps; so much so that
+the author would gladly omit them. But as they are of such unfailing
+[Page 6]
+action, of such universal efficacy, and in many cases are the only
+ones that can be used, any book on trapping would certainly be
+incomplete without them. The scope of our volume not only embraces
+the arts of trapping and trap-making, but extends further into the
+subject of the wild life of a trapping campaign,--containing full
+directions for building log cabins, and shanties; boats and canoes;
+hints on food and cooking utensils; also full directions for the
+curing and tanning of fur skins,--in short, a complete repository of
+all useful information pertaining to the life and wants of a
+professional trapper.
+
+In the preparation of the work no pains have been spared to insure
+clearness in general directions, and every point which would be
+likely to puzzle the reader has been specially covered by separate
+illustration. In this particular it stands unique in the list of
+boys' books. Every difficulty has been anticipated, and in every
+instance the illustrations will be found thoroughly comprehensive
+and complete. That the care and thoroughness which has been displayed
+throughout the work, and to which its pages will bear witness,
+may meet with the appreciation and enthusiastic approval of every
+boy-reader throughout the land, is the most earnest hope of
+
+THE AUTHOR.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page iii]
+[Illustration: CONTENTS]
+
+BOOK I.
+
+TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.
+
+Introduction.--THE DEAD FALL.--Honey as Bait for Bears.--THE GUN
+TRAP.--Peculiar Habits of the Puma.--"Baiting" for the Puma.--Caution
+required in Setting the Gun Trap.--Several Guns used.--Different
+Modes of Setting.--Various animals to which the Gun Trap is
+adapted.--THE BOW TRAP.--Vane and Barb for Arrows.--Best Wood for
+Bow.--A Second Example of Bow Trap.--Arrows Barbed and Poisoned.--THE
+DOWN FALL; or Hippopotamus Trap.--The terrible Harpoon used by
+the African Trapper.--Different Modes of Setting the Down
+Fall.--Modification of the Down Fall for small animals.--THE BEAR
+TRAP.--Various Methods of Setting.--Honey as Bait for Bear.--Bait
+for Puma.--THE PITFALL.--Use of the Trap in Asia as a means of
+defence against the Tiger.--Disposition of the Bait.--Wonderful
+agility of the Puma.--Niceties required in the construction of
+the Pitfall.--THE LOG COOP TRAP.--Various animals for which it
+is adapted.--Different Modes of Setting.--THE CORRALL OR HOPO of
+Africa.--Its Construction and Appalling Effects.--THE NET TRAP.--Its
+Use in the Capture of the Lion and the Tiger.--American animals to
+which it may be adapted.--Two Methods of Setting.--BIRD LIME.--Its
+Use for the Capture of the Lion and Tiger.
+
+[Page iv]
+BOOK II.
+
+SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS.
+
+General Remarks.--Requisite Materials for Snaring.--THE QUAIL
+SNARE.--"Sucker Wire" Nooses.--Six Quail caught at a time.--HOOP
+NOOSES.--HORSE HAIR NOOSES.--HEDGE NOOSES.--Peculiarities of the
+Grouse.--Selection of Ground.--THE TRIANGLE TREE SNARE.--A Hawk
+captured by the device.--The Wire Noose, as arranged for the capture
+of the Woodchuck, Muskrat, and House Rat.--THE TWITCH-UP.--Selection
+of Ground for Setting.--Various Modes of Constructing the Traps.--THE
+POACHERS' SNARE.--Its portability.--THE PORTABLE SNARE.--Its Peculiar
+Advantages.--The "Simplest" Snare.--The valuable principle on which
+it is Constructed.--Its Portability.--Various Adaptations of the
+Principle.--THE QUAIL SNARE.--Its ample capabilities of
+Capture.--Peculiarities of the Quail.--Successful Baits.--THE BOX
+SNARE.--Modification in a very small scale.--THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.--The
+Animals for which it is Adapted.--GROUND SNARES.--THE OLD-FASHIONED
+SPINGLE.--THE IMPROVED SPINGLE.--Objections to Ground Snares.--THE
+FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.--THE PLATFORM SNARE.
+
+BOOK III.
+
+TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.
+
+THE SIEVE TRAP.--THE BRICK TRAP.--THE COOP TRAP--Improved Method
+of Setting.--Defects of the old style.--THE BAT FOWLING NET.--Its
+Use in England.--How the Dark Lantern is Used by Bird Catchers.--THE
+CLAP NET.--Its Extensive Use in Foreign Countries.--Decoy Birds.--The
+"Bird Whistle" used in place of decoy.--Wonderful Skill attained in
+the Use of the Bird Whistle.--Selection of Trapping Ground.--THE
+BIRD WHISTLE Described.--Its Use and Marvelous Capabilities.--THE
+WILD GOOSE TRAP.--Its Extensive Use in the Northern Cold Regions
+for the Capture of the Goose and Ptarmigan.--Tame Goose Used as
+Decoys.--Gravel as Bait.--THE TRAP CAGE.--A Favorite Trap among
+Bird Catchers.--Call Birds.--THE SPRING NET TRAP.--Rubber Elastic
+as Spring Power.--A SIMPLER NET TRAP.--Common Faults in many Bird
+Traps.--Complicated Construction as Unnecessary Feature.--Requisites
+of a good Bird Trap.--Hints on Simple Mechanism.--Different Modes
+of Constructing Hinge.--Hoop Iron Used as Spring Power.--Manner
+of Tempering Spring.--THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.--A Second Method of
+Constructing Platform.--THE BOX OWL TRAP.--Ventilation a Desirable
+Feature in all Box Traps.--Tin Catch for Securing Cover in
+Place.--Peculiar Mode of Baiting for Birds.--Modification of
+Perch.--Baiting for the Owl.--Locality for Setting.--The Owl in
+Captivity.--Its Food.--Hints on the Care of the Bird.--THE BOX
+BIRD TRAP.--Cigar Box Used as a Trap.--THE PENDANT BOX
+TRAP.--Ventilation.--Simple Mechanism.--Care in Construction of
+Bearings.--THE HAWK TRAP.--A "Yankee" Invention.--Stiff-Pointed
+Wires Effectually Use in the Capture of the Hawk.--Owl also Captured
+by the Same Device.--THE WILD DUCK NET.--Its Use in Chesapeake
+Bay.--Manner of Constructing the Net.--Decoy Ducks.--Bait for the
+Ducks.--THE HOOK TRAP.--Its cruel Mode of Capture.--Peculiar Bait
+for Ducks.--THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.--Its Successful Use in the Capture
+of the Crow.--Shrewdness of the Crow.--Strange antics of a Crow when
+Captured in the Trap.--Bird Lime the Secret of its Success.--Wonderful
+Tenacity of the Cap.--Different Modes of Setting.--BIRD LIME
+Described.--Its astonishing "Sticky" Qualities.--The Bird Lime
+of the Trade.--Various "Home-Made" Recipes.--Manner of Using Bird
+Lime.--Limed Twigs.--The Owl Used as a Decoy in connection with
+Bird Lime.--Bird Lime used in the Capture of the Humming Bird.--A
+Flower Converted into a Trap.--Masticated Wheat as Bird Lime.--Its
+Ready Removal from the Feathers.--Delicate Organization of the
+Humming Bird.--Killed by Fright.--Use of its Plumage.--Snares for the
+Humming Bird.--Blow Guns Successfully Used for its Capture.--Killed
+by Concussion.--Disabled by a Stream of Water.
+
+[Page v]
+BOOK IV.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.
+
+THE COMMON BOX TRAP.--Two Modes of Setting.--Animals for which it
+is Adapted.--A Modification of the Trap.--ANOTHER BOX TRAP.--THE
+FIGURE FOUR TRAP.--Its Advantages.--THE DOUBLE ENDER.--A Favorite
+Trap in New England.--Simplicity of Construction.--The Rabbit's
+Fondness for Salt.--Its Use as a Bait.--THE SELF SETTING TRAP.--Animals
+for which it is adapted.--THE DEAD FALL.--Various Methods of
+Construction.--Animals for which it is usually Set.--Remarkable
+Cunning of some Animals.--The Precautions which it Necessitates.--Bait
+for the Muskrat.--Various Baits for the Mink.--Skunk Baits.--A Fox
+Entrapped by a Dead Fall.--Slight Modification in the Arrangement
+of Pieces.--Live Duck used as Bait.--Another Arrangement for the
+Dead Fall.--Trap Sprung by the Foot of the Animal.--THE FIGURE FOUR
+TRAP.--Applied to the Dead Fall.--THE GAROTTE.--Its Singular Mode
+of Capture.--Its Common Victims.--THE BOW TRAP.--An oddity of the
+Trap Kind.--Its Singular mechanism.--THE MOLE TRAP.--A Much-needed
+Contrivance.--Subterranean Mode of Setting.--Its Unfailing Success.--A
+FISH TRAP.--A Section of Stove Pipe used as a Trap.--Its Various
+Victims.--Adjustment of the Bait.--Curious Mode of Capture.
+
+BOOK V.
+
+HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.
+
+A Chapter Dedicated to Pestered Housekeepers.--The Domestic Cat
+as a Household Trap.--The Rat.--Its Proverbial Shrewdness and
+Cunning.--THE BARREL TRAP.--Its unlimited Capabilities of Capture--Other
+Advantages.--"Baiting" for Rats.--A Second Form of Barrel Trap.--Various
+other Devices adapted to the capture of the Rat.--The Steel Trap.--Hints
+on Setting.--Necessary Precautions.--THE BOX DEAD FALL.--THE BOARD
+FLAP.--THE BOX PIT FALL.--Animals for which it may be set.--Its
+Extensive Capabilities of Capture.--Its Self-Setting Qualities.--The
+principle Utilized for the Capture of the Muskrat.--THE CAGE TRAP.--THE
+JAR TRAP.--A Preserve Jar Converted into a Mouse Trap.--Its Complete
+Success.--BOWL TRAPS.--Two Methods.--FLY PAPER.--Recipe for Making.--FLY
+TRAP.
+
+BOOK VI.
+
+STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.
+
+General Remarks.--Advantages of the Steel Trap.--Its extensive use in
+the business of Trapping.--Hints on the Selection of Traps.--REQUISITES
+OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.--The Newhouse Trap.--Various sizes.--Rat
+Trap.--Muskrat Trap.--Mink Trap.--Fox Trap.--Otter Trap.--Beaver
+Trap.--"Great Bear Tamer."--Small Bear Trap.--HINTS ON BAITING
+THE STEEL TRAP.--The Staked Pen.--Old Method of Baiting.--Its
+Objections.--Advantages of the New Method.--THE SPRING POLE.--Its
+Service to the Trapper.--THE SLIDING POLE.--Advantages of its Use
+in the Capture of Aquatic Animals.--THE CLOG.--Objections against
+Securing the Steel Trap to a Stake.--Method of Attaching the Clog.--THE
+GRAPPLING IRON.--THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING.--Best condition for Furs.--THE
+ART OF TRAPPING.--Antiquity of the Sport.--Necessary Qualifications
+for Successful Trapping.--The Study of Natural History a source
+of pleasure and profit.--The Professional Trapper's most serious
+[Page vi]
+Obstacles.--Marvellous Cunning of many Animals.--Necessity of the
+Study of their Habits.--"Practical Natural History."--Trapping Without
+Bait.--Run-ways or By-paths.--How Utilized by the Trapper.--How
+Detected.--Favorable Localities for the Setting of the Steel
+Trap.--Natural Advantages.--Entrapping animals through their Sense
+of Smell.--Remarkable Power of Scent Baits.--Their great value
+in the Capture of the Beaver.--Caution in Handling the Steel
+Trap.--Effect of the Touch of the Hand.--Buckskin Gloves a Necessary
+Requisite.--MEDICINES, OR SCENT BAITS.--Their Great Importance in the
+Art of Trapping.--CASTOREUM OR BARKSTONE.--How Obtained.--Castoreum
+Composition.--Recipe for Making.--How Used.--MUSK--ASSAFOETIDA.--OIL
+OF RHODIUM.--FISH OIL.--Its General Use in the Capture of Aquatic
+Animals.--Valuable Recipe for its Manufacture.--OIL OF SKUNK.--How
+Obtained.--How Eradicated from Hands or Clothing.--OIL OF AMBER.--OIL
+OF AMBERGRIS.--OIL OF ANISE.--Its General Use as a "Universal
+Medicine."--SWEET FENNEL.--CUMMIN--FENUGREEK--LAVENDER--COMPOUND
+MEDICINE--THE TRAIL--Its Object and Value.--Various Modes of
+Making.--HOW TO TRAP.--General Remarks.--THE FOX.--Its Scientific
+Classification.--The Various American Species.--The Red Fox.--The
+Cross Fox.--Why so Named.--The Black or Silver Fox.--The Great
+Value of its Fur.--The Prairie Fox.--The Kit or Swift Fox.--The
+Gray Fox.--Similarity in the General Characteristics of the Various
+Species.--Food of the Fox.--Its Home.--Its consummate Craft.--Instances
+of its Cunning.--Baffling the Hounds.--How to Trap the Fox.--Preparation
+of the Trap.--Adverse Effect of Human Scent.--Necessity of handling Trap
+with Gloves.--The "Bed."--"Baiting" the Bed Necessary.--Precautions in
+Setting the Trap.--The "Tricks of the Trapper" Illustrated.--How to
+Proceed in case of Non-Success.--The Scent-Baits Utilized.--Various
+Modes of Setting the Trap.--The Baits Commonly Used.--The Dead Fall
+as a Means of Capture.--Common Mode of Skinning the Fox.--Directions
+for Stretching Skin.--THE WOLF.--The Various Species.--Fierce
+Characteristics of the Wolf.--Its Terrible Inroads among Herds and
+Flocks.--The Gray Wolf.--The Coyote or Common Prairie Wolf.--The
+Texan Wolf.--Home of the Wolf.--Number of Young.--Cunning of the
+Wolf.--Caution Required in Trapping.--How to Trap the Wolf.--Preparation
+of Trap.--Various Ways of Setting the Trap.--Use of the Trail and
+Scent Baits.--"Playing Possum."--The Dead Fall and "Twitch-up"
+as Wolf Traps.--Directions for Skinning the Wolf and Stretching
+the Pelt.--THE PUMA.--Its Scientific Classification.--Its Life
+and Habits.--Its Wonderful Agility.--Its Skill as an Angler.--Its
+Stealth.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Puma.--The Gun
+Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Dead Fall.--Trap for Taking the Animal
+Alive.--Log Coop Trap.--The Pit Fall.--Bait for the Puma.--The Steel
+Trap.--Common Mode of Setting.--Selection of Locality for Trapping.--How
+to Skin the Puma.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE CANADA
+LYNX.--Description of the Animal.--Its Life and Habits.--Its Food.--Its
+Peculiar Appearance when Running.--Easily Killed.--The Dead Fall as
+a Lynx Trap.--Peculiar Manner of Construction for the Purpose.--The
+Gun Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Twitch-up.--Young of the Lynx.--Value
+of its Fur.--The Steel Trap.--Various Methods of Setting.--Directions
+for Skinning the Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE WILD CAT.--Its
+Resemblance to the Domestic Species.--Its Strange Appetite.--Its
+Home.--Number of Young.--Haunts of the Wild Cat.--Its Nocturnal
+Marauding expeditions.--Its Lack of Cunning.--How to Trap the Wild
+Cat.--An Entire Colony Captured.--Ferocity of the Wild Cat.--The
+Twitch-up.--Its Common Use in the Capture of the Wild Cat.--Other
+Successful Traps.--Various Baits for the Wild Cat.--Directions
+for Skinning the Animal, and Stretching the Pelt.--THE BEAR.--The
+Various American Species.--The Grizzly.--Its Enormous Size and
+Power.--Its Terrible Fury.--Description of the Animal.--Food of the
+Grizzly.--The Black Bear or Musquaw.--Its General Description.--Bear
+Hunting.--Danger of the Sport.--Food of the Bear.--Its Fondness for
+Pigs.--Honey Its Special Delight.--The Cubs.--The Flesh of the
+Bear as Food.--"Bears' Grease."--Hibernation of the Bear.--Traps
+for the Bear.--The Dead
+[Page vii]
+Fall.--Pit-fall.--Giant Coop.--Gun Trap.--The Steel Trap.--The
+Clog and Grappling-Iron.--Their Advantages.--How to Trap the
+Bear.--Various Methods of Adjusting Traps.--Natural Advantages.--Honey
+as Bait.--Other Baits.--Scent Baits.--Skinning the Bear.--Directions
+for Stretching the Pelt.--THE RACCOON.--Classification--Cunning
+and Stealth of the Animal.--Characteristic Features.--The "Coon
+Chase."--How the Raccoon is Hunted.--The "Tree'd Coon."--Varied
+Accomplishments of the Raccoon.--Its Home and Family.--The "Coon"
+as a Pet.--Its Cunning Ways.--Its Extensive Bill of Fare.--Life and
+Habits of the Raccoon.--Remarkable Imprint of its Paw.--Season for
+Trapping the Coon.--How to Trap the Coon.--Various Modes of Setting
+the Trap.--Use of the "medicines" or "Scent Baits."--Other Traps for
+the Animal.--Directions for Removing the Skin, and Stretching the
+Pelt.--THE BADGER.--Its Peculiar Markings.--Use of the Hair.--Nest of
+the Badger.--Number of Young.--Food of the Animal.--Its Remarkable
+Fondness for Honey.--Its Cunning.--Remarkable Instincts.--Its
+Shrewdness.--How to Trap the Badger.--Various Baits.--Use of
+"Medicine."--Capture of the Animal by Flooding its Burrow.--How
+to Skin the Badger.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE
+BEAVER.--Description of the Animal.--Its Nature and Habits.--The
+Beaver Village.--The "Lodges," or Beaver Houses.--Remarkable
+Construction of the Huts.--The Dam of the Beaver.--Wonderful Skill
+shown in its Construction.--Nocturnal Habits of the Beaver.--Remarkable
+Engineering Instincts of the Animal.--How the Beaver Cuts Timber.--How
+the Dam is Constructed.--The Formation of "Reefs."--The Tail of
+the Beaver as a Means of Transportation.--Subterranean Passage
+to the Huts.--How Beavers are Hunted.--Young of the Beaver.--How
+to Trap the Beaver.--The Necessary Precautions.--Castoreum or Bark
+Stone.--Its Great Value in the Capture of the Beaver.--Various
+Methods of Setting the Trap.--How to Apply the Castoreum.--Use of
+the Sliding Pole.--Food of the Beaver.--Directions for Skinning the
+Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE MUSK-RAT.--General Description
+of the Animal.--Its Beaver-like Huts.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its
+Food.--The Flesh of the Musk-rat as an Article of Diet.--Description
+of the Hut.--Extensive Family of the Musk-Rat.--Its Home.--How the
+Musk-Rat swims beneath Unbroken Ice.--How it is Killed by being
+Driven Away from its Breath.--Spearing the Musk-Rat.--Construction
+of the Spear.--How to Trap the Musk-Rat.--Use of the Sliding
+Pole.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The Spring Pole.--Scent
+Baits.--Various Devices for Capturing the Musk-Rat.--The
+Barrel-Trap.--Remarkable Success of the Trap.--The Trail.--Skinning
+the Musk-Rat.--How to Stretch the Pelt.--THE OTTER.--Description
+of the Animal.--Beauty of its Fur.--How the "Otter Fur" of Fashion
+is Prepared.--Food of the Otter.--Its Natural Endowments for
+Swimming.--Habitation of the Otter.--Its Nest and Young.--The Track
+or "Seal" of the animal.--How the Otter is Hunted.--Its Fierceness
+when Attacked.--The Otter as a Pet.--Fishing for its Master.--The
+Otter "Slide."--How Utilized by the Trapper.--Playfulness of the
+Otter.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The
+Sliding Pole.--The Spring Pole.--Scent Baits.--How Applied.--Necessary
+Precautions.--How to Skin the Otter.--Directions for Stretching the
+Pelt.--THE MINK.--Its Form and Color.--Value of the Fur.--Habits
+of the Animal.--Its Diet.--Its Perpetual Greed.--Ease with which it
+may be Trapped.--Habitation of the Mink.--Its Nest and Young.--How
+to Trap the Mink.--Various Methods of Setting the Trap.--Baits.--The
+Sliding Pole.--"Medicine."--The Runways of the Mink.--How Utilized
+in Trapping.--The Trail.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the
+Mink.--How to Skin the Animal.--THE PINE MARTEN.--Description of
+the Animal.--Its Natural Characteristics.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its
+Wonderful Stealth and Activity.--Its "Bill of Fare."--Its Strange mode
+of Seizing Prey.--The Marten as a Pet.--Its Agreeable Odor.--Various
+Traps Used in the Capture of the Marten.--Baits for the Marten.--The
+Steel Trap.--Several Modes of Setting.--Directions for Skinning
+the Animal.--THE FISHER.--Its Form and Color.--Its Habitation and
+Young.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Methods.--The Spring
+Pole.--Baits for the Fisher.--Principal Devices Used in its
+Capture.--The Skin.--How
+[Page viii]
+Removed and Stretched.--THE SKUNK.--Its Fetid Stench.--Origin of
+the Odor.--Its Effect on Man and Beast.--"Premonitory Symptoms"
+of Attack.--Acrid Qualities of the Secretion.--Its Terrible Effect
+on the Eyes.--Interesting Adventure with a Skunk.--"Appearances are
+often Deceitful."--The Skunk as a Pet.--Color of the Animal.--Habits
+of the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Young.--"Alaska Sable."--How to
+Trap the Skunk.--Various Traps Used.--The Steel Trap.--Different
+Modes of Setting.--Baits.--The Dead Fall.--Modifications in its
+Construction.--The Twitch-up.--Its Peculiar Advantages for the
+Capture of the Skunk.--Chloride of Lime as Antidote.--Method of
+Eradicating the Odor from the Clothing.--Directions for Removing and
+Stretching the Skin.--THE WOLVERINE.--Its Desperate Fierceness and
+voracity.--Its General Characteristics.--Its Form and Color.--Food
+of the Wolverine.--Its Trap-Robbing Propensities.--How to Trap the
+Wolverine.--Baits.--Use of the "Medicine."--The Gun Trap and Dead
+Fall.--The Steel Trap.--Various Modes of Setting.--Home and Young
+of the Animal.--How the Skin should be Removed and Stretched.--THE
+OPOSSUM.--Description of the Animal.--Its Nature and Habits.--Its
+Home.--Remarkable Mode of Carrying its Young.--Nocturnal Habits of
+the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Especial Fondness for Persimmons.--Its
+Remarkable Tenacity as a Climber.--"Playing Possum."--How the Opossum
+is Hunted.--How Trapped.--Various Devices Used in its Capture.--Scent
+Baits.--How the Skin is Removed and Stretched.--THE RABBIT.--Wide-spread
+Distribution of the Various Species.--Their Remarkable Powers of
+Speed.--Nest of the Rabbit.--Its Prolific Offspring.--Food of the
+Rabbit.--Its Enemies.--Various Devices Used in Trapping the
+Animal.--Necessary Precautions in Skinning the Rabbit.--THE
+WOODCHUCK.--Description of the Animal.--Its Habits.--Its Burrows.--Its
+Food.--Toughness of the Skin.--Its Use.--Nest of the Animal.--The
+Woodchuck as Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--The Steel Trap.--The
+Spring Pole.--The Twitch-up.--How the Woodchuck is "Drowned Out."--The
+Turtle as a Ferret.--Smoking the Burrows.--Directions for Skinning
+the Animal.--THE GOPHER.--Its Burrows.--Its Food.--Remarkable Cheek
+Pouches of the Animal.--Their Use.--How to Trap the Animal.--How
+the Skin is Removed.--THE MOLE.--Its Varied Accomplishments.--Its
+Remarkable Dwellings.--Complicated Structure of the Habitation.--The
+Fury and Voracity of the Mole.--Peculiarities of Its Fur.--A Waistcoat
+of Mole Skins.--Odor of the Mole.--Mole Traps.--Various Species of the
+Mole.--The Mole of the Cape of Good Hope.--Marvellous Beauty of Its
+Fur.--SQUIRRELS.--Their General Peculiarities of Form and Habit.--Their
+Food.--Their Provident Instincts.--"Nutting" in Midwinter.--The
+Nest of the Squirrel.--Burrowing Squirrels.--The Various American
+Species.--The Grey Squirrel.--The Chipmunk.--The Chickaree.--The
+Flying Squirrel, &c.--How Squirrels are Trapped.--Various Traps
+Used in their Capture.--Removal of Skin.--THE DEER.--Difficulty
+of Hunting the Animal in Dry Seasons.--Various American Species
+of the Deer.--How the Deer is Trapped.--Peculiar Construction of
+the Trap.--Scent Bait for the Deer.--Various Methods of Setting
+the Trap.--Violence of the Deer when Trapped.--The Clog.--Dead
+Falls.--Food of the Deer.--Deer "Yards."--Natural Enemies of the
+Deer.--How the Deer is Hunted.--"Still Hunting."--The Deer's Acute
+Sense of Smell.--How to Detect the Direction of the Wind.--Natural
+Habits of the Deer.--"Night Hunting."--Luminosity of the Eyes of the
+Deer at Night.--Hunting the deer with dogs.--"Deer Licks."--How Salt
+is used in Hunting the Deer.--Hunting from a Scaffolding.--Peculiar
+Sight of the Deer.--"Salt Licks" used in Night Hunting.--Head
+Lantern.--How made.--How used.--The fiery Eyes of the Deer.--"Fox
+Fire" or Phosphorescent wood.--How used by the Hunter.--Seasons
+for Deer Hunting.--How to skin the Deer.--THE MOOSE.--Description
+of the animal.--Immense size of its Horns.--Moose yards.--Hunted
+on Snow shoes.--The dangers of Moose Hunting.--Exquisite sense of
+Smell.--How the Moose is Trapped.--Directions for removing the
+Skin of the Animal.--ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.--Description of the
+Animal.--Its enormous Horns.--Habits of the creature.--Its flesh as
+Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--THE BUFFALO.--Its Habits.--Its
+Food.--Buffalo-grass.--How the Animal is Hunted and Trapped.--Buffalo
+[Page ix]
+flesh as Food.--Buffalo skins.--THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE.--Description
+of the Animal.--Peculiarity of Horn.--How the creature is Hunted
+and Destroyed by the Indians.--Remarkable sense of Smell of the
+Animal.--Its Beauty and grace.--Flesh of the Antelope a Food.--How
+the Animal is Trapped.--Various Traps used in their Capture.--The
+Dead-fall.--Pit-fall.--How to remove the Hide of the Animal.--SHOOTING
+AND POISONING.--"Shot furs."--"Poisoned furs."--"Trapped furs."--Their
+relative Value in the Fur Market.--Effect of grazing shot on
+fur.--Effect of Poison on Fur.--Remarks on the use of
+Poison.--Strychnine.--Poisoning Wolves.--Recipe for mixing the
+Poison.--Poisoning the Bear.--How the Dose is Prepared.
+
+BOOK VII.
+
+CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS.
+
+Introductory Remarks.--"Amateur Trapping."--PLAN OF CAMPAIGN.--Selection
+of Trapping-ground.--Advantages of a Watered District.--Labor of
+transportation lightened by Boating.--Lakes, Ponds and Streams.--The
+Adirondacks and Alleghanies.--Remarks on the "Home Shanty."--Selection
+of Site for building.--Value of a good Axe.--Remarks on the Bark
+Shanty.--Its value in case of Storms.--Wise fore-sight.--Remarks on
+the Indian Birch-bark Canoe.--Dug-out and Bateau.--Commencement of
+Trapping Season.--Advantages of preliminary preparation.--Extensive
+route of the Professional Trapper.--Sixty pounds of Personal
+Luggage.--How the traps and provisions are distributed among the
+Trapping lines.--Use of the "Home Shanty."--"Keeping Shanty."--Necessity
+of its being Guarded.--Wolves and Bears as thieves.--Steel Traps
+considered.--Number used in a Professional Campaign.--Number for
+an Amateur Campaign.--Their Probable Cost.--The average size of
+Trap.--Dead-falls, Twitchups, &c., considered.--Requisite Tools for
+a Campaign.--A "House-wife" a valuable necessity.--"Cleanliness next
+to Godliness."--The Trappers' Light.--Comparative value of Lanterns
+and Candles.--The Trappers' Personal outfit.--The jack-knife.--The
+Pocket-Compass.--Necessity of preparing for Emergencies.--Shot
+guns and Rifles.--Both combined in the same weapon.--Oil for Fire
+Arms.--Fat of the Grouse Used on Fire Arms.--Fishing tackle.--The
+Trappers' portable stove.--The Stove versus The Open Fire.--The
+Trapper's Clothing.--The Material and Color.--Boots.--High-topped
+Boots.--Short Boots.--Their Relative Qualities.--Waterproof Boot
+Dressing.--Recipe.--The Trapping Season.--Hints on Trapping-lines.--The
+"Wheel" plan.--Mode of following the lines.--"Trap Robbers" or
+"Poachers."--How to guard against them.--Hiding furs.--How to store
+Traps from Season to Season.--Gnats and Mosquitoes.--The "Smudge."--How
+made.--FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS.--"Roughing it."--"A chance Chip
+for a Frying Pan."--A "happy medium" between two extremes.--Cosy
+and Comfortable living on a Campaign.--Portable Food.--Combined
+Nutriment and lightness in weight to be desired.--The Trappers'
+Culinary Outfit.--Indian meal as Food.--The Trappers' "Staff of
+Life."--Wheat flour.--Salt Pork.--Seasoning.--Pork Fritters a
+luxury.--Cooking Utensils.--The "Telescope" drinking cup.--Recipe
+for making Pork Fritters.--"Chop Sticks" a la "Chinee."--A Flat
+Chip as a Plate.--Boiled Mush.--Old "Stand by."--Recipe.--Fried
+Mush.--Indian meal Cakes.--Recipe.--Johnny Cake.--Recipe.--Hoe
+Cakes.--Recipe.--Fresh fish.--How to Cook fish in a most Delicious
+manner.--Prof. Blot, and Delmonico, out-done.--The "NE PLUS ULTRA" of
+delicacies.--All the sweet Juices of the Fish preserved.--Disadvantages
+of the ordinary method of cooking.--Partridge, Duck, Quail, Cooked
+deliciously.--Roasting unrivalled!--Hints on Broiling.--An extemporized
+Spider or Toaster.--Roasting on a spit.--Venison, Bear, and Moose Meat
+broiled in the best style.--Venison cutlets.--The Camp fire.--Usual mode
+[Page x]
+of building Fire.--How the Kettle is suspended.--"Luxuries"
+considered.--The Knapsack a desirable Acquisition.--Matches.--The Bottle
+Match-safe.--Waterproof Matches.--How made.--Lucifer Matches.--Recipe
+for Waterproof preparation.--The Pocket Sun Glass.--A necessary adjunct
+to a Trapper's Outfit.--Its Advantages in case of Emergency.--"Touch
+wood" or "Punk Tinder," valuable in lighting fires.--How to light Fires
+without matches or Sun glass.--How to light a fire without Matches,
+Sun Glass, Powder, or Percussion Caps.--A last Resort.--Matches best
+in the long run.--The Portable Camp Stove described.--Its accompanying
+Furniture.--The Combination Camp-knife.--Hint on Provisions.--Potatoes
+as food.--Beans.--"Self raising" Wheat flour.--Light Bread, Biscuit
+and Pancakes in Camp.--Various accessories.--Olive Oil for purpose
+of Frying.--Pork.--Indian meal.--Crackers.--Wheaten Grits.--Rice and
+Oatmeal.--Tea and Coffee.--Soups.--Liebig's Extract of Beef.--Canned
+Vegetables.--Lemonade.--Waterproof bags for provisions.--Painted
+bags.--Caution!--Waterproof preparation.--Air-tight jars for
+Butter.--Knapsack or Shoulder Basket.--Venison as food.--To preserve
+the overplus of meat.--"Jerked Venison" Recipe and Process.--Moose
+and Bear meat and Fish, similarly prepared.--How to protect provisions
+from Wolves.--The Moufflon and Prong-horn as food.--"Small game,"
+Squirrels, Rabbits, and Woodchucks.--"Skunk Meat" as a delicacy.--The
+Buffalo as food.--Grouse, the universal Food of Trappers and
+Hunters.--Various species of Grouse.--The Sage Cock.--The
+Ptarmigan.--How they are trapped by the Indians in the Hudson's
+Bay Country.--Waterfowl.--Sea and Inland Ducks.--Various species of
+Duck.--Mallard.--Muscovy.--Wigeon.--Merganser.--Canvass Back.--Teal,
+&c.--Wild Geese.--Fish as food.--Angling and Spearing.--Salmon
+Spearing in the North.--Description of the Salmon Spear used by
+the Indians.--Salmon Spearing at night.--Requisites of a good
+Spearsman.--Fishing through the Ice.--Cow's udder and Hogs liver as
+Bait.--Other Baits.--Assafoetida and Sweet Cicely as fish Baits.--Trout
+fishing with Tip-up's.--Pickerel fishing in Winter.--Pickerel Spearing
+through the Ice.--The Box Hut.--The "Fish Lantern" or Fish Trap.--Fish
+Attracted by light.--Light as Bait.--How the Fish Lantern is made and
+used.--THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.--Introductory remarks.--The Perils of
+a Life in the Wilderness.--A Shelter of some form a Necessity.--The
+Log Shanty.--Full directions for building.--Ingenious manner of
+constructing roof.--How the Chimney is built.--Spacious interior of
+the Shanty.--THE BARK SHANTY.--A Temporary structure.--Full directions
+for its construction.--Selection of building site.--TENTS.--Advantages
+of their use.--Various kinds of Tents.--The House Tent.--The Fly
+Tent.--The Shelter Tent.--Directions for making the Tent.--Tent
+Cloth.--How to render tents Water and Fire-resistant.--Valuable
+recipe.--BEDS AND BEDDING.--Perfect rest and comfort to the tired
+Trapper.--A portable Spring bed for the woods.--A Hammock bed.--Bed
+Clothes.--The Canton Flannel Bag.--Hammocks.--TENT CARPETING.--Spruce
+and Hemlock boughs as bedding.--How to cover the ground evenly.--The
+Rubber Blanket.
+
+BOOK VIII.
+
+THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.
+
+Warning to the Novice.--Winged Cannibals of the Woods.--INSECT
+OINTMENTS.--Mosquitoes and Gnats.--Their aversion to the scent
+of Pennyroyal.--Pennyroyal Ointment.--Recipe.--Mutton tallow
+Ointment.--Tar and Sweet Oil Liniment.--Recipe.--Its effect on the
+Complexion.--Invasions of Insects by night.--Their pertinacity and
+severity.--The experience of our Adirondack guide.--The bloodthirsty
+propensities of the Mosquito admirably depicted.--The "Smudge" Smoke
+versus Insect Bites.--"Punkeys" and "Midgets."--Their terrible
+voracity.--Painful effects of their Bites.--Pennyroyal an effective
+Antidote.--Depraved
+[Page xi]
+appetite of the mosquito.--A Warning to the Intemperate.--Use and abuse
+of Alcohol.--A Popular error corrected.--A substitute for Whiskey and
+Brandy.--Red Pepper Tea.--Its great value as a remedy in Illness.--The
+Mosquitoes' favorite Victim.--Result of the bite of the insect.--The
+Mosquito Head-Net.--Directions for making the Net.--Netting attachment
+for the Hat.--Portable Sun Shade or Hat brim.--Netting attachment
+for the Hat brim.--BOAT BUILDING.--A Boat of some kind a necessity
+to the Trapper.--The "Dug-Out" or Log-Canoe.--Requisite Tools for
+its Manufacture.--Selection of the Log.--Directions for making the
+boat.--Remarkable thinness to which they may be reduced.--Lightness
+of the boat.--How to gauge the thickness.--How to stop leaks.--THE
+INDIAN OR BIRCH BARK CANOE.--The Indian as a Canoe-maker.--His
+remarkable skill.--Perfection of the Indian made Canoe.--Description
+of the Canoe.--Capacity of the various sizes.--How to construct a
+Bark Canoe.--Selection of Bark.--How to prevent Leaks.--Material
+used by the Indians in sewing the Bark.--Advantages of the Birch
+Bark Canoe.--Basswood, Hemlock, and Spruce Bark Canoes.--A LIGHT
+HOME-MADE BOAT.--Selection of Boards.--Directions for making the
+Boat.--Caulking the seams.--Value of Pitch for waterproofing
+purposes.--How it should be applied.--THE SCOW.--How to construct the
+ordinary Flat-bottomed Boat.--The Mud-stick.--SNOW SHOES.--A necessity
+for winter travel.--The "Snow Shoe Race."--The mysteries of a Snow
+Shoe.--"Taming the Snow Shoe."--How to make the Snow Shoe.--Complicated
+Net-work.--Two methods of attaching the Net-work.--How the Snow
+Shoe is worn.--THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.--Its value to the
+Trapper.--Winter Coasting.--Great sport with the Toboggan.--How to
+make a Toboggan.--Selection of Boards.--How the Sledge is used.--CURING
+SKINS.--Importance of Curing Skins properly.--Valuable hints on Skinning
+Animals.--How to dry Skins.--How to dress Skins for Market.--Astringent
+preparations.--Recipe.--STRETCHERS.--How skins are stretched.--The Board
+Stretcher.--How it is made and used.--The Wedge Stretcher.--How made
+and used.--The Bow Stretcher.--The Hoop Stretcher.--TANNING SKINS.--To
+Tan with the hair on.--Preparation of Skin for Tanning.--Tanning
+Mixture.--Recipe.--Second Mixture.--Recipe.--Third Mixture and
+Recipe.--How the Skin is softened and finished.--HOW TO TAN MINK
+AND MUSKRAT SKINS.--Preparation of Skin.--Tanning Mixtures.--Various
+Recipes.--"Fleshing."--The Fleshing-knife.--Substitute for the
+Fleshing-knife.--HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF THE BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON,
+AND MARTEN.--Tanning Mixtures.--How to soften the Skin.--Simple
+Tanned Skin.--Recipe for removing the fur.--How to finish the
+Skin.--OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.--Some
+bits of History in connection with Furs.--Ancient use of Furs.--Furs
+a medium of Exchange.--Furs and Fashion.--Extravagance in Fur
+Costume.--Choice Furs as Badges of Rank.--Their use restricted to
+Royal Families.--The Early Fur Trade of Europe.--A Tribute paid
+in Furs.--Early History of the Fur Trade in America.--Origin of
+the Hudson's Bay Company.--Hostility of the French Canadian
+Traders.--Establishment of the North West Company.--Competition and
+War.--Consolidation of the two Companies.--Great sales of the Hudson's
+Bay Company.--Importance of the Fur Trade.--Cities founded by the
+enterprise of the Trapper.--St. Paul.--Montreal and Mackinaw.--Fortunes
+built up on Fur Traffic.--John Jacob Astor.--Mink and Muskrat
+Skins.--Their extensive use in America.--Estimated value of the
+annual yield of Raw Furs throughout the World.--Classification
+of Furs by American Dealers.--"Home" Furs.--"Shipping" Furs.--Table
+of Sales of Hudson's Bay Company, in 1873.--March Sale.--September
+Sale.--Price according to Quality.--Estimated average per Skin.--List
+of American "Shipping" Furs.--List of American "Home" Furs.--MARKET
+VALUE OF FUR SKINS.--Eccentricities of the Fur Market.--Demand
+governed by Fashion.--How Fashion runs the Fur Trade.--The Amateur
+Trapper and the Fur Trade.--Difficulty of a profitable disposal
+of Furs.--Advice to the Novice.--How to realize on the sale of
+Furs.--TABLE OF VALUES OF AMERICAN FUR SKINS.--A complete list of
+American Fur bearing Animals.--Various prices of Skins according
+to Quality.--USES OF AMERICAN FURS AT HOME AND ABROAD.--The Silver
+Fox.--Fifty Guineas for a Fur Skin.--Red Fox Fur.--Its
+[Page xii]
+use in Oriental Countries.--Beaver Fur.--Its various uses.--Raccoon
+Skins, a great Staple for Russia and Germany.--Bear Skins and their
+various uses.--Lynx, Fisher, and Marten Skins.--The Mink.--Use of its
+hair for Artists pencils.--Muskrat Skins.--Three millions annually
+exported to Germany alone.--Their extensive use among the American
+poorer classes.--Otter Fur.--Sleigh Robes from Wolf Skins.--Rabbit
+Fur.--Its use in the Manufacture of Hats.--Breeding Rabbits for
+their Fur.--The Wolverine.--Skunk Fur, dignified by the name of
+Alaska Sable.--Large shipments to Foreign Countries.--How the Fur
+of the Badger is used.--Opossum, Puma, and Wild Cat Fur.--Robes
+for the Fashionable.--Squirrel and Mole skins.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page xiii]
+[Illustration: ILLUSTRATIONS.]
+
+FULL PAGES.
+
+    1. Caught at last.
+    2. Traps for Large Game.
+    3. Snares or Noose Traps.
+    4. Traps for Feathered Game.
+    5. Miscellaneous Traps.
+    6. Household Traps.
+    7. Steel Traps, and the art of Trapping.
+    8. Almost Persuaded.--to face.
+    9. The Campaign.
+   10. Trapper's Miscellany.
+
+[Page xiv]
+ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.
+
+   11. "Preface".
+   12. Initial to Preface.
+   13. End piece to Preface.
+   14. "Contents".
+   15. "Illustrations".
+   16. Initial to Book I
+   17. Dead fall for large Animals.
+   18. Explanatory drawing of pieces.
+   19. The Gun Trap.
+   20. The Bow Trap
+   21.  "   "   "   arrangement of parts.
+   22.  "   "   "   Section.
+   23. Foot String Bow Trap.
+   24. The Down fall.
+   25. The Bear Trap.
+   26. End piece to Book I.
+   27. Initial to Book II.
+   28. Quail Nooses.
+   29. Hedge Nooses.
+   30. The Triangle Snare.
+   31. The Twitch-up.
+   32. Method of Setting.
+   33.    "    "    "    No. 2.
+   34.    "    "    "    No. 3.
+   35.    "    "    "    No. 4.
+   36.    "    "    "    No. 5.
+   37. The Poacher's Snare.
+   38. The Portable Snare.
+   39. The "Simplest" Snare.
+   40. Modification No. 2.
+   41.      "        "  3.
+   42. The Quail Snare.
+   43. The Box Snare.
+   44. The Double Box Snare.
+   45. The Old fashioned Springle.
+   46. The Improved Springle.
+   47. The Figure Four Ground Snare.
+   48. The Platform Snare.
+   49. End piece.
+   50. Initial to Book III.
+   51. The Brick Trap.
+   52. Method of Setting.
+   53. The Coop Trap.
+   54. The Bat fowling Net.
+   55. The Clap Net.
+   56. The Bird Whistle.
+   57. The Trap Cage.
+   58. Diagrams of Cage.
+   59. The Spring Net Trap.
+[Page xv]
+   60. Section of Spring Net Trap.
+   61. A Simpler Net Trap.
+   62. The Upright Net Trap.
+   63. Second Method    "
+   64. The Box Owl Trap.
+   65. The Box Bird Trap.
+   66. The Pendant Box Bird Trap.
+   67. The Hawk Trap.
+   68. The Wild Duck Net.
+   69. The Hook Trap.
+   70. The Fool's Cap Trap.
+   71. The Limed Twig.
+   72. Humming-bird Trap.
+   73. Initial to Book IV.
+   74. The Common Box Trap.
+   75. Two Modes of Setting.
+   76. Box Trap.
+   77. The Figure Four Trap.
+   78. Parts of     "
+   79. The "Double Ender".
+   80. The Self-Setting Trap.
+   81. The Dead fall.
+   82. Method No. 2.
+   83. The Garotte.
+   84. Arrangement of "Setting".
+   85. The Bow Garotte Trap.
+   86. A Fish Trap.
+   87. End Piece "Maternal advice".
+   88. Initial to Book V.
+   89. The Barrel Trap.
+   90. The Box Dead Trap.
+   91. The Board Flap.
+   92. The Box Pit-fall.
+   93. Diagram of   "
+   94. Cage Trap.
+   95. Initial to Book VI.
+   96. Steel Trap. No. (0) or Rat Trap.
+   97. Steel Trap. No. 1, or Muskrat Trap.
+   98.   "     "   No. 2, or Mink Trap.
+   99.   "     "   No. 2-1/2, or Fox Trap.
+  100.   "     "   No. 3, or Otter Trap.
+  101.   "     "   No. 4, or Beaver Trap.
+  102. "The Great Bear Tamer," Steel Trap.
+  103. Steel Trap No. 5, or Small Bear Trap.
+  104. Steel Trap set in pen.
+  105. The Spring Pole.
+  106. The Sliding pole.
+  107. The Grappling Iron.
+  108. The Wolf.
+  109. The Puma.
+  110. The Canada Lynx.
+[Page xvi]
+  111. The Wild Cat.
+  112. The Bear.
+  113. The Raccoon.
+  114. The Badger.
+  115. The Beaver.
+  116. The Otter.
+  117. The Mink.
+  118. The Marten.
+  119. The Skunk.
+  120. The Wolverine.
+  121. The Opossum.
+  122. The Squirrel.
+  123. The Moose.
+  124. Initial to Book VII.
+  125. Portable Drinking Cup.
+  126. The Home Shanty.
+  127. The Shelter tent.
+  128. The Trapper's Bed.
+  129. End Piece.
+  130. Initial to Book VIII.
+  131. Head Net.
+  132. Portable Hat-brim.
+  133. Hat-brim with netting attachment.
+  134. The Dug-out or Log Canoe.
+  135. The Birch-Bark Canoe.
+  136. A Light Home-made Boat.
+  137. Diagram view of Boat----.
+  138. The Snow Shoe.
+  139. The Toboggan or Indian Sledge.
+  140. The Board Stretcher.
+  141. The Wedge Stretcher.
+  142. The Bow Stretcher.
+  143. "The End".
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 15]
+[Illustration: TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME]
+
+[Page 17]
+BOOK I.
+
+TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.
+
+
+[Illustration: H]owever free our forests may be from the lurking
+dangers of a tropical jungle, they nevertheless shelter a few large
+and formidable beasts which are legitimate and deserving subjects
+of the Trapper's Art. Chief among them are the Puma, or Cougar,
+Bear, Lynx, Wolf and Wolverine.
+
+Although commonly taken in steel traps, as described respectively
+in a later portion of this work, these animals are nevertheless
+often captured by Deadfalls and other devices, which are well known
+to the professional Trapper, and which serve excellently in cases
+of emergency, or in the scarcity of steel traps.
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+THE DEAD-FALL.
+
+There are several varieties of this trap, some of which are described
+in other parts of this volume. In general construction they all
+bear a similarity, the methods of setting being slightly changed
+to suit the various game desired for capture. For large animals,
+and particularly the Bear, the trap is sprung by the pressure of
+the animal's foot, while reaching for the bait. Select some favorite
+haunt of the Bear, and proceed to construct a pen of large stakes.
+These should consist of young trees, or straight branches, about
+three inches in diameter, and should be of such a length as to
+reach a height of four or five feet when set in the ground, this
+being the required height of the pen. Its width should be about
+two and a half or three feet; its depth, four feet; and the top
+should be roofed over with cross pieces of timber, to prevent the
+[Page 18]
+bait from being taken from above. A straight log, about eight inches
+in diameter, and six feet in length should now be rolled against the
+opening of the pen, and hemmed in by two upright posts, one on each
+side, directly on a line with the sides of the enclosure. Another
+log, or tree trunk, of the same diameter, and about fifteen or twenty
+feet in length, should next be procured. Having this in readiness,
+we will now proceed to the construction of the other pieces. In
+order to understand the arrangement of these, we present a separate
+drawing of the parts as they appear when the trap is set (_a_).
+An upright post, is supplied at the upper end with a notch, having
+its flat face on the lower side. This post should be driven into
+the ground in the left hand back corner of the pen, and should
+be three feet or more in height. Another post (_b_) of similar
+dimensions, is provided with a notch at its upper end, the notch
+being reversed, _i. e._, having its flat side _uppermost_. This
+post should be set in the ground, _outside_ of the pen, on the
+right hand side and on a line with the first. A third post (_c_),
+is provided with a crotch on its upper end. This should be planted
+outside of the pen on the right hand side, and on a line with the
+front. The treadle piece consists of a forked branch, about three feet
+[Page 19]
+in length, supplied with a square board secured across its ends.
+At the junction of the forks, an augur hole is bored, into which a
+stiff stick about three feet in length is inserted. This is shown
+at (_h_). Two poles, (_d_) and (_e_), should next be procured, each
+about four feet in length. These complete the number of pieces,
+and the trap may then be set. Pass the pole (_d_) between the stakes
+of the pen, laying one end in the notch in the post (_a_), and
+holding the other beneath the notch in the upright (_b_). The second
+pole (_e_) should then be adjusted, one end being placed in the
+crotch post (_c_), and the other caught beneath the projecting
+end of the pole (_d_), as is fully illustrated in the engraving.
+The dead-log should then be rested on the front extremity of the
+pole last adjusted, thus effecting an equilibrium.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The treadle-piece should now be placed in position over a short
+stick of wood (_f_), with its platform raised in front, and the
+upright stick at the back secured beneath the edge of the latch
+pole (_d_).
+
+The best bait consists of _honey_, for which Bears have a remarkable
+fondness. It may be placed on the ground at the back part of the
+enclosure, or smeared on a piece of meat hung at the end of the
+pen. The dead-log should now be weighted by resting heavy timbers
+against its elevated end, as seen in the main drawing, after which
+the machine is ready for its deadly work.
+
+A Bear will never hesitate to risk his life where a feast of honey
+is in view, and the odd arrangement of timbers has no fears for
+him after that tempting bait has once been discovered. Passing
+beneath the suspended log, his heavy paw encounters the broad board
+on the treadle-piece, which immediately sinks with his weight. The
+upright pole at the back of the treadle is thus raised, forcing
+the latch-piece from the notch: this in turn sets free the side
+pole, and the heavy log is released falling with a crushing weight
+over the back of hapless Bruin.
+
+There are many other methods of setting the Dead-fall, several
+of which appear in another section of this book. The above is the
+one more commonly used for the capture of Bears, but the others are
+[Page 20]
+equally applicable and effective when enlarged to the proper size.
+
+In South America and other countries, where Lions, Tigers, Leopards,
+and Jaguars abound, these and other rude extempore traps are almost
+the only ones used, and are always very successful. The pit-fall
+often allures the Bengal Tiger to his destruction, and the Leopard
+often terminates his career at the muzzle of a rifle baited as
+seen in our page illustration. A gun thus arranged forms a most
+sure and deadly trap, and one which may be easily extemporized
+at a few moments' warning, in cases of emergency. The Puma of our
+northern forests, although by no means so terrible a foe as the
+Leopard, is still a blood-thirsty creature, and while he shuns the
+gaze of man with the utmost fear, he is nevertheless constantly
+on the alert to spring upon him unawares, either in an unguarded
+moment or during sleep. A hungry Puma, who excites suspicion by
+his stealthy prowling and ominous growl, may easily be led to his
+destruction at the muzzle of a gun, baited as we shall now describe.
+
+
+THE GUN TRAP.
+
+After a Puma has succeeded in capturing his prey, and has satisfied
+his appetite by devouring a portion of its carcass, he leaves the
+remainder for a second meal, and his early return to a second banquet
+is almost a matter of certainty. Where such a remnant of a bygone
+feast is found, the capture of the Cougar is an easy matter. Any
+carcass left in a neighborhood where Pumas are known to exist is
+sure to attract them, and day after day its bulk will be found to
+decrease until the bones only remain. By thus "baiting" a certain
+place and drawing the Pumas thither, the way is paved for their
+most certain destruction. The gun-trap is very simply constructed,
+and may be put in working order in a very few moments. The weapon
+may be a rifle or shot-gun. In the latter case it should be heavily
+loaded with buck-shot. The stock should be first firmly tied to
+some tree, or secured in a stout crotch driven into the ground,
+the barrel being similarly supported.
+
+The gun should be about three feet from the ground, and should
+be aimed at some near tree to avoid possible accident to a chance
+passer-by within its range. The gun should then be cocked, _but
+not capped_, due caution being always used, and the cap adjusted
+the very last thing after the trap is baited and set. Where a rifle
+[Page 21]
+is used, the cartridge should not be inserted until the last thing.
+
+It is next necessary to cut a small sapling about a foot or two
+in length. Its diameter should allow it to fit snugly inside the
+guard in front of the trigger, without springing the hammer. Its
+other end should now be supported by a very slight crotch, as shown
+in our illustration. Another sapling should next be procured, its
+length being sufficient to reach from the muzzle of the gun to
+the end of the first stick, and having a branch stub or hook on
+one end. The other extremity should be attached by a string to
+the tip of the first slick.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Now take a portion of the carcass and draw it firmly over the hook
+in the long stick. Prop the latter in such a position as that the
+bait shall hang directly in front of the muzzle. The crotch supporting
+the bait stick should be firmly implanted in the ground in order
+to hold the bait from being drawn to either side of the muzzle.
+
+The gun-trap is now set, and its merits may be tested. Before adjusting
+the cap the pieces should be tried several times to insure their
+perfect working. A slight pull on the bait from the front will
+draw the short stick forward. This immediately
+[Page 22]
+acts on the trigger and causes the hammer to snap. By a few trials,
+the sticks can be arranged so as to spring the trigger easily,
+and where a hair trigger is used, a mere touch on the bait will
+suffice to discharge the gun. When all is found to work perfectly,
+the trap should be surrounded by a rude pen of sticks and branches,
+extending two or three feet beyond the muzzle, in order to insure
+an approach directly in the aim of the gun. The cap should now be
+placed on the nipple, after which the deadly device may be left
+to do its certain work. The remaining portion of the carcass should
+be removed, and where the locality is likely to be frequented by
+other hunters or trappers, it is well to put up a "danger" signal
+to guard against accident. If desired two or three guns may be
+arranged like the spokes of a wheel, all aiming near the bait.
+Even with one gun the victim stands but little chance, but where
+two or three pour their contents into his body, his death is an
+absolute certainty.
+
+By fastening the gun three feet above ground the load is discharged
+upward into the mouth of its victim, and thus directly through
+the brain. Where two or more guns are used, it is advisable to
+aim at least one in such a direction as will send its charge into
+the _breast_ of the animal.
+
+The Indian Panther is very commonly taken by the gun trap, and
+even Lions are sometimes secured by the same device, only increased
+in power by a larger number of guns.
+
+There are several other methods of setting the gun trap. One way
+consists in attaching a string to the finger piece of the trigger,
+passing it back through a small staple or screw eye inserted in
+the under side of the stock for that purpose, and then drawing
+the string forward and attaching it to the top of the bait stick.
+This latter is stuck in the ground directly in front of the muzzle
+and the bait secured to its extremity. When the tempting morsel is
+grasped, the bait stick is drawn forward and the string pulled, the
+result of course being the discharge of the gun. By still another
+method, an elastic is passed through the screw eye in the stock and
+over the finger piece of the trigger, thus tending continually to
+draw it back and spring the hammer. To set the gun a short stick
+is inserted behind the finger piece, thus overcoming the power
+of the elastic. It should be very delicately adjusted, so that a
+mere touch will dislodge it. Its length should be about six inches,
+and to its other end the bait stick should be attached and arranged
+as first described. Although a rather dangerous trap to be set at
+random it is nevertheless often utilized and has brought many a
+[Page 23]
+dreaded marauder to his doom.
+
+The bear, lynx, and other large animals are sometimes taken by the
+gun trap, but it is most generally set for the Puma.
+
+
+THE BOW TRAP.
+
+This device does duty in India and Southern Asia, where it is known
+as the _tiger trap_.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It is easily constructed as follows: First cut a stout board five
+inches in width, two and a half feet in length and about two inches
+in thickness. Shave off one end to a point so that it may be driven
+into the ground. At the other extremity, in the middle of the board
+and about two inches from the edge, a hole one half an inch in
+diameter and three quarters of an inch in height, should be made;
+two auger holes, one directly above the other with the sides flatly
+trimmed, will answer perfectly. The arrow should next be constructed.
+This should be made of seasoned oak or ash, two feet in length,
+perfectly straight, smooth and round, and one third of an inch in
+[Page 24]
+diameter. One end should be notched for the bow string and vaned with
+thin feathers after the manner of ordinary arrows. The other extremity
+should be armed with a steel barb sharply pointed, and firmly riveted
+in place. Any blacksmith can forge such a tip; the shape of which is
+plainly seen in our engraving. The bow should consist of a piece of
+stout seasoned hickory, oak or ash four feet long, if such a bow is
+not at hand, a stout sapling may be used. The bow string may consist
+of cat-gut, or stout Indian twine.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Before setting the trap, it is advisable to attract the game to
+the spot selected as already alluded to in connection with the
+gun trap, and particularly so when the Puma is the victim sought.
+In our illustration we see the trap as it appears when set, and
+the same precaution of aiming at some tree should be exercised
+as advise with the gun trap. The bow should first be secured in
+place directly beneath and one eighth of an inch from the edge of
+the hole in the board, as seen at (_a_). Two large wire staples
+may be used for this purpose, being passed over the bow through
+holes in the board and clinched on the opposite side. The bend
+of the bow and length of string should now be determined, one end
+of the latter being attached to the tip of the bow and the other
+end supplied with a loop. The board should then be driven into the
+ground to the depth of about eight inches. We will next take up
+the arrow. Pass the barb through the hole in the board and adjust
+the notch over the bow-string, draw the arrow back and release the
+string. If the arrow slide easily and swiftly, through the board,
+keeping true to its aim, the contrivance is in perfect working
+order and is ready to be set. This is accomplished by the very
+simple and ingenious mechanical arrangement, shown at (_b_). On
+the under side of the arrow just behind the barb, a flat notch
+one eighth of an inch in depth and two and a half inches in length
+is cut, with rounded ends, as seen in the illustration. The bait
+stick should consist of a sapling about three feet in length, the
+large end being trimmed so
+[Page 25]
+as to fit in the hole over the arrow while the notch in the latter
+rests in the bottom of the aperture as seen in the illustration
+(_b_). The trap may then be set. Draw back the arrow, until the
+notch rests in the hole in the board. Insert the bait stick _very
+lightly_ above the arrow as shown at (_b_), propping it in place
+at the angle seen in the main drawing. The bait for a puma should
+consist of a portion of some carcass, or if for other animals,
+any of the baits given in our section on "trapping" may be used.
+In order to secure the bait firmly to the bait stick, a small hole
+and a peg at the side of the baited end will effectually prevent
+its removal and the trap will thus most surely be sprung. The prop
+which sustains the bait stick need be only a small crotch inserted
+a little to one side of the trap. The bow should now be surrounded
+by a wide pen, allowing room for the spring of the ends. The top of
+the enclosure should also be guarded by a few sticks or branches
+laid across. Directly in front of the trap and extending from it, a
+double row of rough stakes three feet high should be constructed,
+thus insuring an approach in the direct range of the arrow. Without
+this precaution the bait might be approached from the side, and the
+arrow pass beneath the head of the animal, whereas on the other
+hand it is sure to take effect in the neck or breast of its victim.
+Of course the success of this trap depends entirely upon the strength
+of the bow. When a large and powerful one is used its effect is
+almost surely fatal.
+
+Another form of the bow trap, much used in the capture of the tiger,
+forms the subject of our next illustration: no bait is here used.
+The trap is set at the side of the beaten path of the tiger and
+is sprung by the animal pressing against a string in passing. The
+bow is large and powerful and is secured to two upright posts about
+eight inches apart. The string is drawn back and a blunt stick is
+then inserted between the bow string and the inside centre of the
+bow, thus holding the latter in a bent position. A stout stick,
+with a flattened end is next inserted between the end of the blunt
+stick and the inside of the bow, the
+[Page 26]
+remaining part of the stick extending downwards, as our illustration
+shows. To the lower end of this stick a string is attached and
+carried across the path in the direct range of the arrow, being
+secured to a stake on the opposite side. The arrow is generally
+barbed with a steel or flint point, and wound with thread saturated
+with a deadly poison. This is now rested on the top of the bow
+between the upright parts, and its notch caught in the bow-string.
+Everything is then in readiness. The tiger soon steals along his
+beaten track. He comes nearer and nearer the trap until at last
+his breast presses the string. Twang, goes the bow and the arrow is
+imbedded in the flesh of its victim. He writhes for a few moments,
+until he is released from his torments by the certain death which
+follows the course of the poison through his veins.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The use of the poison is very dangerous: a mere scratch through the
+skin is likely to prove fatal, and the trapper is thus likely to
+prove his own victim. Poisoned arrows are little used by trappers;
+and the bow trap, when properly constructed, is sufficiently effective
+without the venom.
+
+
+THE DOWN-FALL.
+
+This is the famous harpoon trap, so commonly used in Africa for
+the capture of the hippopotamus. There is no reason why
+[Page 27]
+it may not be successfully employed in our own country for taking
+large game, or modified on a reduced scale for smaller animals.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The hippopotamus makes his daily rounds in regular beaten pathways;
+and the trapper, knowing this peculiarity, turns it to advantage.
+This is a common habit with many animals; and these "runways" are
+easily detected by the matted leaves and grass and the broken twigs.
+Over such a beaten track the harpoon-trap is suspended.
+
+The harpoon used by the native African trappers somewhat resembles
+a double-barbed arrowhead, and has a reflexed prong on the shaft
+just behind the barbs,--a sort of combination between a spear and
+a fish-hook. It is a terrible weapon; and, when once launched into
+the flesh of its victim, its withdrawal is impossible, on account
+of the reflexed barb. Any sharp steel shaft will answer the purpose
+of the harpoon; it should be eight or ten inches in length, and
+filed to a keen point. We will now construct the trap. The first
+requisite is a straight section of the branch of some tree. This
+should be about four inches in diameter, and four feet in length.
+Into one end of this beam the harpoon should be firmly imbedded,
+allowing the point to project about six inches. This beam should
+[Page 28]
+then be weighted with two large stones, attached firmly by a rope,
+about eighteen inches above the harpoon. At about six inches from
+the other end of the log a notch should be cut, having its flat
+side uppermost, as shown plainly in our illustration. The implement
+is now ready.
+
+Select some favorably situated tree, whose branches extend over
+the pathway chosen for the trap. By the aid of a rope secured to
+the log, and thrown over the limb, the weighted beam may be drawn
+up into the tree. While thus held by a person below, the trapper
+should climb the tree to complete operations. For this purpose, a
+smaller branch about three feet in length should be cut. One end
+should be flattened off on both sides, so as to fit in the notch
+in the beam; and the part which rests on the limb, as seen in the
+illustration, should also be flattened to prevent turning. A piece
+of stout Indian twine should next be fastened to the unwhittled end
+of the stick, which may then be adjusted in the notch of the harpoon
+beam, as seen in the engraving. The string may then be thrown down,
+and grasped by the companion below, who holds it firmly, after
+which the original rope may be removed. It will be noticed that the
+weight of the harpoon and accompaniments rests on the short arm of
+the lever which passes over the limb of the tree, and the tension on
+the string from the long arm is thus very slight. This precaution
+is necessary for the perfect working of the trap. To complete the
+contrivance, a small peg with a rounded notch should be cut, and
+driven into the ground directly plumb beneath the long end of the
+lever. It should be inserted into the earth only sufficiently to
+hold the string without pulling out, and the _side_ of the notch
+should face the path; its height should be about a foot. Into the
+notch the string should be passed, being afterwards drawn across
+the path and secured on the opposite side at the same height. The
+trap is now set; and woe to the unlucky quadruped that dares make
+too free with that string! A very slight pressure from either side
+is equally liable to slip the string from the notch, or loosen the
+peg from the ground; and the result is the same in either case,--down
+comes the weighted harpoon, carrying death and destruction to its
+victim.
+
+For large animals, this mode of setting will be found to work perfectly.
+When constructed on a smaller scale, it may be slightly modified.
+It will be noticed that, when the string is approached from one
+side, it is merely slipped out of the notch,--a slight pressure
+being sufficient to dislodge it,--while the pressure
+[Page 29]
+from the opposite direction must be strong enough to lift the peg
+out of the ground bodily. This is easily done when the peg is lightly
+inserted; but, to _insure_ success, even with _light_ pressure from
+either side, an additional precaution may be used, if desired.
+Instead of fastening the end of the string securely to some object
+on the further side of the path, it is well to provide the end of
+the cord with a ring or loop, which should be passed over a nail
+or short peg driven in some tree or branch, or fastened into an
+upright stake, firmly embedded into the ground. The nail should
+point in the opposite direction from the notch in the peg, and
+its angle should incline slightly toward the path. It will thus
+be seen that an approach from one side forces the string from the
+notch in the peg, while an opposite pressure slides the ring from
+the nail.
+
+This mode of setting is especially desirable for small animals,
+on account of its being more sensitive.
+
+Such a trap may be successfully used for the puma, bear, and the
+lynx. When constructed for smaller animals, the harpoon may be
+dispensed with, a large stone being equally effective in its
+death-dealing qualities
+
+
+THE BEAR TRAP.
+
+This trap is constructed after the idea of the old-fashioned box
+or rabbit trap, and has been the means of securing many a hungry
+bear, or even puma, whose voracity has exceeded its cunning. The
+lynx and wild-cat are also among its occasional victims; and inasmuch
+as its prisoners are taken alive great sport is often realized
+before the captive is brought under control.
+
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the affair. The sides
+are built of stout young tree-trunks, cut into sections and firmly
+driven into the ground close together. For a large animal,--a bear,
+for instance,--the enclosure should be about seven feet deep, two
+and a half feet wide, and four feet high. The top should be built
+in with the sides, after the manner of the log cabin, described
+in page (244.) The two posts at the entrance should be first set
+up. On the back side of each, near the end, a deep notch should be
+cut for the reception of the cross piece at the top. This should
+likewise be notched in a similar manner on both sides of each end,
+so as to fit singly into the notches in the uprights on the one
+side, and into the second pair of uprights
+[Page 30]
+on the other. These latter should next be inserted firmly into
+the ground, having been previously notched on both sides of their
+upper ends, as described for the cross piece. They may either be
+fixed in place and the cross piece sprung in between them at the
+top, or the latter may be held in the notches of the first pair,
+while the second are being inserted. Continue thus until the full
+length of the sides are reached, when the end may be closed by
+an upright wall of plain logs, either hammered into the ground,
+after the manner of the sides, or arranged one above another in
+notches between the two end uprights. The sliding door is next
+required. This should be large enough to cover the opening, and
+should be made of stout board slabs, firmly secured by cross pieces.
+It should be made to slide smoothly into grooves cut into perpendicular
+logs situated on each side of the opening, or may be arranged to
+slip easily between the flattened side of one log on each side
+and the front of the pen. Either way works well. In the latter
+an additional upright or short board should be inserted in the
+ground at the edges of the sliding door, to prevent the latter
+from being forced to either side by the efforts of the enclosed
+captive.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There are two or three ways of setting the trap, depending upon
+the desired game. For a bear it is arranged as in our illustration.
+An upright post, two feet in length, should be cut
+[Page 31]
+to an edge at one end, and wedged in between the logs at the top
+of the trap, near the middle. Across the top of this, a pole seven
+feet in length, should be rested; one end being attached by a loop,
+or secured in a notch in the sliding door, and the other supplied
+with a strong string about four feet in length, with a stick eight
+inches in length secured to its end. Through the centre log, in
+the back of the pen, and about two feet from the ground, an auger
+hole should be made. The bait stick with bait attached should be
+inserted through this hole from the inside, and the spindle caught
+on the outside between its projecting end and a nail driven in
+the adjoining upright. This principle is clearly illustrated on
+page 105 at (_a_), and, if desired, the method (_b_) may be used
+also. For a bear, the bait should consist of a piece of meat scented
+with burnt honey-comb. The odor of honey will tempt a bear into
+almost any trap, and even into such close quarters as the above
+he will enter without the slightest suspicion, when a feast of
+honey is in view.
+
+For the cougar, or puma, the best bait is a live lamb or a young
+pig, encaged in a small pen erected at the end of the trap. A fowl
+is also excellent. When thus baited, the setting of the trap is
+varied. The upright post at the top of the trap is inserted nearer
+the front, and the cross pole is stouter. The auger hole is bored
+in the top of the trap, through the centre of one of the logs, and
+about twenty inches from the back end of the trap. The spindle is
+dispensed with and the end of the string is provided with a large
+knot, which is lowered through the auger hole, and is prevented
+from slipping back by the insertion of a stick beneath. This stick
+should be about three feet in length, and of such a size at the
+end as will snugly fit into the auger hole. It should be inserted
+delicately, merely enough to hold the knot from slipping back, and
+so as to be easily released by a slight movement in any direction.
+
+This mode of setting is more fully detailed on page 52. As the
+puma steals in upon his prey he dislodges the stick, the lid falls,
+and he finds himself imprisoned with his intended victim. This
+trap is much used in India and Asia for the capture of the tiger,
+and the jaguar of South America is frequently entrapped by the
+same devices.
+
+
+THE PIT-FALL.
+
+The tiger is the scourge of India and Southern Asia and some sections
+of these countries are so terribly infested with
+[Page 32]
+the brutes that the inhabitants are kept in a continual state of
+terror by their depredations. Many methods are adopted by the natives
+for the destruction of the terrible creatures, some of which have
+already been described. The pit-fall is still another device by
+which this lurking marauder is often captured and destroyed. It
+sometimes consists of a mere pit covered and baited in the haunts of
+the tiger, or is constructed in a continuous deep ditch surrounding
+the habitations of the natives, and thus acting as a secure protection.
+The pit is about twelve feet deep and ten feet in width, and its
+outside edge is lined with a hedge five or six feet in height.
+As the fierce brute steals upon his intended prey, he nears the
+hedge and at one spring its highest branch is cleared. He reaches
+the earth only to find himself at the bottom of a deep pit, from
+which there is no hope of escape, and where he speedily becomes
+the merciless victim of a shower of deadly arrows and bullets.
+
+Happily we have no tigers in the United States, but the puma and
+the lynx are both fit subjects for the pit-fall. These animals
+cannot be said to exist in such numbers as to become a scourge
+and a stranger to the inhabitants of any neighborhood, and for
+this reason the "Moat" arrangement of the pit-fall is not required.
+The simple pit is often used, and when properly constructed and
+baited is a very _sure_ trap. The hole should be about twelve feet
+in depth and eight feet across, widening at the bottom. Its opening
+should be covered with slicks, earth and leaves, so arranged as
+to resemble the surroundings as much as possible, but so lightly
+adjusted as that they will easily give way at a slight pressure.
+One edge of the opening should now be closely built up with stakes
+firmly inserted into the ground, and so constructed as to form a
+small pen in the middle, in which to secure the bait, generally
+a live turkey, goose, or other fowl. The other three sides should
+also be hedged in by a single row of upright stakes three or four
+feet in height, and a few inches apart in order that the hungry
+puma may whet his appetite by glimpses between them.
+
+They should be firmly imbedded in the earth directly at the edge
+of the pit, and as far as possible trimmed of their branches on the
+inside. There will thus be a small patch of solid ground for the
+feet of the fowl, which should be tied by the leg in the enclosure.
+Our trap is now set, and if there is a puma in the neighborhood he
+will be sure to pay it a call and probably a _visit_.
+
+Spying his game, he uses every effort to reach it through the
+[Page 33]
+crevices between the stakes. The cries of the frightened fowl arouse
+and stimulate his appetite, and at last exasperated by his futile
+efforts to seize his victim, he springs over the fence of stakes
+and is lodged in the depths of the pit.
+
+The puma is very agile of movement, and unless the pit is at least
+twelve feet in depth there is danger of his springing out. Any
+projecting branch on the inside of the stakes affords a grasp for
+his ready paw, and any such branch, if within the reach of his
+leap, is sure to effect his escape. For this reason it is advisable
+to trim smoothly all the projections and leave no stub or knot
+hole by which he could gain the slightest hold. The construction
+of a pit-fall is a rather difficult operation on account of the
+digging which it necessitates. On this account it is not so much
+used as many other traps which are not only equally effective but
+much more easily constructed. The following is an example:--
+
+
+THE LOG COOP TRAP.
+
+This is commonly set for bears, although a deer or a puma becomes
+its frequent tenant. As its name implies it consists of a coop of
+logs, arranged after the principle of the Coop Trap described on
+page 67. The logs should be about eight feet in length, notched
+at the ends as described for the Log Cabin, page (244). Lay two
+of the logs parallel about seven feet apart. Across their ends in
+the notches, lay two others and continue building up in "cob-house"
+fashion until the height of about six feet is reached. The corners
+may be secured as they are laid by spikes, or they may be united
+afterward in mass by a rope firmly twisted about them from top to
+bottom. Logs should now be laid across the top of the coop and
+firmly secured by the spikes or rope knots. There are several ways
+of setting the trap. A modification of that described on page 67
+works very well, or an arrangement of spindle and bait stick, as
+in the Box Trap, page 105, may also be employed. In the latter
+case, the bait stick is either inserted between the logs at the
+back of the coop, or a hole is bored through one of them for this
+purpose. For this mode of setting, the coop should be constructed
+beneath some tree. It is set by means of a rope attached to the
+upper edge of one of its sides the rope being thrown over a limb
+of the tree and the loose end brought down and secured to the bait
+stick by a spindle, as described
+[Page 34]
+for the trap on page (195). The limb here acts in place of the
+tall end piece of the Box Trap, and by raising the coop up to such
+an angle as that it will be nearly poised, the setting may be made
+so delicate that a mere touch on the bait stick from the interior
+will dislodge the pieces and let fall the enclosure. The _simplest_
+mode of setting the trap is that embodied in the "snare" method on
+page (52). The rope is here provided with a knot, which must pass
+easily between the logs, or through the hole at the back of the
+coop, the length of rope being so arranged as that the coop shall
+be sufficiently raised where the knot projects into the interior. The
+introduction of the bait stick beneath the knot will thus prevent
+the latter from being drawn back, and thus our trap is set. The
+bait stick in any case should be about two feet in length; and with
+this leverage but a slight touch will be required to spring the
+pieces. In the latter method the limb of the tree is not necessary.
+A stout crotched stake driven into the ground about twenty feet,
+at the back of the coop, will answer every purpose, and the coop
+may be constructed wherever desired. This is a most excellent trap
+for large animals. It secures the game alive, and is thus often
+productive of most exciting sport. For the bear, the bait should
+consist of honey or raw meat. Full directions for baiting all kinds
+of American game are given under their respective heads in another
+part of this book. The Coop Trap may be constructed of any dimensions,
+from the small example on page (67) to the size above described.
+
+There are several other inventions commonly used for the capture
+of large animals in various parts of the globe, which would be
+of little avail in this country. Such is the African Corrall, or
+Hopo, by which whole herds of quaggas, elands, and buffalo are
+often destroyed. The trap consists of two hedges in the form of
+the letter V, which are very high and thick at the angle. Instead
+of the hedges being joined at this point, they are made to form a
+lane about two hundred feet in length, at the extremity of which
+a giant pit is formed. Trunks of trees are laid across the margins
+to prevent the animals from escaping. The opening of this pit is
+then covered with light reeds and small green boughs. The hedges
+often extend miles in length and are equally as far apart at these
+extremities. The tribe of hunters make a circle, three or four
+miles around the country adjacent to the opening, and gradually
+closing up are almost sure to enclose a large body of game, which,
+by shouts and skilfully hurled Javelins, they drive into the narrowing
+[Page 35]
+walls of the Hopo. The affrighted animals rush headlong to the gate
+presented at the end of the converging hedges and here plunge pell-mell
+into the pit, which is soon filled with a living mass. Some escape by
+running over the others; and the natives, wild with excitement,
+spear the poor animals with mad delight, while others of the brutes
+are smothered and crushed by the weight of their dead and dying
+companions. It is a most cruel and inhuman device, and its effects
+are sometimes appalling.
+
+
+THE NET TRAP.
+
+The lion and tiger are often taken in a net, which is secured to
+a frame work and suspended over a tempting bait. When the latter
+is touched the net falls, and the victim becomes entangled in the
+meshes and is securely caught. So far as we know, this mode of
+capture is never tried in this country. For the puma, lynx and
+wild-cat we fancy it might work admirably. The net should be of
+stout cord, and should be secured to a heavy square frame work,
+tilted as in the coop trap, already described. There should be
+plenty of slack in the net, and the looseness should be drawn flat
+over the framework in folds. The contrivance may be set by a large
+figure four trap, page (107), or the device described under the
+coop trap, page (67).
+
+The use of bird lime, for the capture of a tiger, certainly seems
+odd; but it is, nevertheless, a common mode of taking the animal,
+in the countries where this marauder abounds. The viscid, tenacious
+preparation known as bird lime is described on page (97) and is
+familiar to most of our readers. For the capture of birds it is
+unfailing, when once their delicate plumage comes in contact with
+it. Its effect on the tiger is surprising, and many a hunter has
+secured his striped foe by its aid. For this purpose, the cans
+of the preparation are arranged on elevated boards around a bed
+of leaves, in which the bait is placed. A small platform is so
+placed that the tiger shall step upon it in reaching for the bait,
+which, by the aid of strings, tilts the boards and tips off the
+cans. The lime spills on its victim and over the bed of leaves,
+and the tiger, in his endeavors to free himself from the sticky
+substance only succeeds in spreading it, and as he rolls and tumbles
+on the ground he soon becomes completely smeared and covered with
+the dry leaves, from which it is impossible for him to extricate
+himself.
+
+In his frantic rage he writhes upon the ground and becomes an easy
+[Page 36]
+prey to the hunter, who is generally on hand for the fray.
+
+Steel traps are much used for the capture of large game, and are
+made in sizes especially adapted for the purpose. These are described
+under the proper head, in another portion of this work; and the various
+baits and modes of setting required for the different animals, are
+clearly set forth under their respective titles of the latter,
+in the section "Art of Trapping."
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 37]
+[Illustration: SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 39]
+BOOK II.
+
+SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS.
+
+
+[Illustration: T]hese devices, although properly coming under the
+head of "traps," differ from them in the sense in which they are
+generally understood. A _snare_ naturally implies an _entanglement_;
+and for this reason the term is applied to those contrivances which
+secure their victims by the aid of strings or nooses. Inventions of
+this kind are among the most useful and successful to the professional
+Trapper, and their varieties are numerous. The "Twitch-up" will be
+recognized as a familiar example by many of our country readers,
+who may have seen it during their rambles, cautiously set in the
+low underbrush, awaiting its prey, or perhaps holding aloft its
+misguided victim.
+
+Snares are among the most interesting and ingenious of the trap
+kind, besides being the most sure and efficacious. They possess
+one advantage over all other traps; they can be made in the woods,
+and out of the commonest material.
+
+Let the young trapper supply himself with a small, sharp hatchet,
+and a stout, keen edged jack-knife,--these being the only tools
+required. He should also provide himself with a coil of fine brass
+"sucker wire," or a quantity of horse-hair nooses (which will be
+described further on), a small ball of tough twine and a pocket full
+of bait, such as apples, corn, oats and the like, of course depending
+upon the game he intends to trap. With these, his requirements are
+complete, and he has the material for a score of capital snares,
+which will do him much excellent service if properly constructed.
+Perhaps the most common of the noose traps is the ordinary
+
+
+QUAIL SNARE,
+
+which forms the subject of our first illustration. This consists
+of a series of nooses fastened to a strong twine or wire. They
+[Page 40]
+may be of any number, and should either consist of fine wire,
+horse-hair, or fine fish-line. If of wire, common brass "sucker
+wire," to be found in nearly all hardware establishments and country
+stores, is the best. Each noose should be about four inches in
+diameter. To make it, a small loop should be twisted on one end of
+the wire, and the other passed through it, thus making a slipping
+loop, which will be found to work very easily. Fifteen or twenty of
+these nooses should be made, after which they should be fastened
+either to a stout string or wire, at distances of about four inches
+from each other, as seen in our illustration. Each end of the long
+string supporting the nooses should then be fastened to a wooden
+peg. After selecting the ground, the pegs should be driven into
+the earth, drawing the string tightly, as seen in our illustration.
+The ground around the nooses should then be sprinkled with corn,
+oats, and the like, and the trap is set. As a general thing, it
+is advisable to set it in a neighborhood where quails are known
+to abound; and as they run all over the ground in search of food,
+they are sure to come across the bait strewn for them, and equally
+as certain to be caught and entangled in the nooses. The writer
+has known as many as six quails to be thus caught at a time, on
+a string of only twelve nooses. Partridges and woodcock will
+occasionally be found entangled in the snare, and it will oft-times
+happen that a rabbit will be secured by the device.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+HOOP NOOSES.
+
+This is a variation from the above, the noose being attached to
+a barrel hoop and the latter being fastened to two stout posts,
+which are firmly driven into the ground. By their scattering the
+bait inside the hoop, and adjusting the loops, the contrivance
+is complete.
+
+This is a very old and approved method.
+
+In the initial (T) at the head of this section we give also
+[Page 41]
+another suggestion for a noose trap. The cross pieces are tacked to
+the top of the upright, and a noose suspended from each end,--the
+bait adjusted as there seen.
+
+We have mentioned horse-hair nooses as being desirable, and they
+are commonly used; but, as it takes considerable time to make them,
+and the wire answering the purpose fully as well, we rather recommend
+the wire in preference. We will give a few simple directions, however,
+for the making of the horse-hair nooses, in case our readers might
+desire to use them instead.
+
+Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (we would
+recommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of the hairs
+and double it in the middle, hold the double between the thumb
+and fore-finger of the left hand, letting the two ends hang from
+the under side of the thumb, and keeping the hairs between the
+thumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. Now proceed to
+twist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, letting them
+twist together as the loop emerges on the upper side of the thumb.
+
+A little practice will overcome what at first seems very difficult.
+To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right distance
+of separation, and at the same time to twist them and draw the
+loop from between the fingers as they _are_ twisted, seems quite a
+complicated operation; and so it will be found at first. But when
+once mastered by practice, the twisting of five nooses a minute will
+be an easy matter. When the entire length of the hairs are twisted,
+the ends should be cut off even and then passed through the small
+loop at the folded end. The noose is then ready to be fastened
+to the main string of support. Horse-hair nooses are commonly used
+in nearly all snares as they are always to be had, and possess
+considerable strength. The fine brass wire is also extensively
+used, and the writer rather prefers it. It is very strong and slips
+easily, besides doing away with the trouble of twisting the loops,
+which to some might be a very difficult and tedious operation. We
+recommend the wire, and shall allude to it chiefly in the future,
+although the horse-hair may be substituted whenever desired.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is another modification of the foregoing quail-traps very
+commonly utilized by professional trappers of many countries. A
+low hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length small
+openings are left here and there, in which the nooses are placed,
+as in the accompanying engraving. The bait is strewn around on both
+sides of the hedge, and the grouse or other game, on its discovery,
+are almost sure to become entangled
+[Page 42]
+sooner or later. It is a well-known fact about these birds, that
+they will always seek to pass _under_ an object which comes in their
+way rather than fly over it; and although the hedge of this trap is
+only a foot or more in height, the birds will almost invariably run
+about until they find an opening, in preference to flying over it.
+It is owing to this peculiarity of habit that they are so easily
+taken by this method. Our illustration gives only a very short
+section of hedge; it may be extended to any length. The writer's
+experience with the hedge nooses has been very satisfactory, although
+never using a length greater than ten feet. It is well to set the
+hedge in the locality where quails or partridges are _known_ to
+run. And in setting, it is always desirable to build the hedge
+so that it will stretch over some open ground, and connect with
+two trees or bushes. Cedar boughs are excellent for the purpose,
+but any close brushwood will answer very well. Strew the ground
+with corn, oats and the like. A small quantity only is necessary.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is another noose trap commonly used abroad, and very little
+known here. It is a _tree_ trap, and goes by the name of the "triangle
+snare." It is not designed for the capture of any _particular_ kind
+of bird, although it often will secure fine and rare specimens.
+It consists of a sapling of wood, bent and tied in the form of a
+triangle, as shown in our illustration. This may be of any size,
+depending altogether on the bird the young trapper fancies to secure.
+A noose should be suspended in the triangle from its longest point.
+This noose should hang as indicated in our illustration, falling
+low enough to leave a space of an inch or so below it at the bottom
+of the triangle. The bait, consisting of a piece of an apple, a
+berry, insect, or piece of
+[Page 43]
+meat, according to the wish of the trapper, should then be suspended
+in the centre of the noose, after which the contrivance should be
+hung in some tree to await events. As they are so easily made and
+can be carried with so little trouble, it is an excellent plan to
+set out with a dozen or so, hanging them all in different parts of
+the woods; as, under circumstances of so many being set, scarcely
+a day will pass in which the trapper will not be rewarded by some
+one of the snares. The writer once knew of a case where a hawk
+was captured by one of these simple devices. In this case it had
+been set expressly, and the wire was extra strong. This trap, we
+believe, is quite common in parts of Germany, but, as far as we
+know, has not been utilized to any great extent in our country.
+We recommend it with great confidence.
+
+For the capture of woodchucks, muskrats and house-rats, the wire
+noose may also be adapted to good purpose. Many a woodchuck has been
+secured by the aid of this simple invention. It is only necessary
+to arrange the loop in the opening of the burrow, securing the wire
+to a stout stick, firmly driven into the ground. If properly "set"
+the animal, on emerging from the burrow, will become entangled, and
+by his efforts to disengage himself will only tighten the loop
+and thus render escape impossible. For rats, the noose should be
+attached to a nail, and the wire similarly arranged over the hole.
+
+The slipping-noose thus simply adapted becomes a most effective
+trap, and is always sure to hold its victim when once within its
+grasp, as every struggle only tends to draw the noose tighter. They
+are quick in their action, and produce death without much pain,
+and for this reason are to be commended.
+
+
+THE "TWITCH-UP."
+
+Our next example of the snare, we imagine, is one which all our
+boy-readers will immediately recognize; for it would certainly
+seem that any country boy who does not know the "Twitch-up" must
+be far behind the times, and live in a locality where there are
+no rabbits, quail, or even boys, besides himself, to suggest it.
+This snare is a _universal favorite_ among nearly all country boys,
+and our illustration will immediately bring it to mind. Its name,
+"The Twitch-up," conveys perfectly its method of working. Our
+illustration represents the trap as it appears when set. It has many
+varieties, of which we will select the best. They may be divided
+into two classes--those with upright nooses, and those in which
+[Page 44]
+the noose is spread on the ground, the latter of which are commonly
+called "ground snares." We will give our attention first to the
+"upright" style. These are rather entitled to preference on account
+of the harmless death which they inflict, invariably catching by
+the neck. Whereas the ground nooses as frequently lift their prey
+into the air by their feet, and thus prolong their suffering.
+Twitch-ups are the most successful and sure of any snares, and that,
+too, without being complicated. The writer, in his younger days,
+was quite an expert in trapping, and he can truthfully say that he
+found more enjoyment and had better success with these than with any
+other kinds of traps he employed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+They are generally set in thickets or woods where either rabbits
+or partridges are known to abound. Having arrived at his chosen
+trapping ground, the young trapper should first select some slender,
+elastic sapling; that of the hickory is the best, and is generally
+to be found in open woods--if not, some other kind will answer very
+well. It should be about five or six feet in length, (trimmed of
+its branches,) and in diameter need be no larger than an axe-handle
+or a broom-stick. When this is decided, some spot about five feet
+distant from the sapling should then be selected. The hatchet and
+knife will now come into excellent use, in cutting the sticks for
+the little inclosure shown
+[Page 45]
+in our drawing. This should be about eight or ten inches in diameter,
+and of about the same height. The sticks should be driven into
+the ground in a circle, leaving an open space of about six inches
+on one side. A stout switch as large as a man's little finger,
+and nearly two feet long, should then be cut and nicely sharpened
+at both ends. This should then be driven into the ground in the
+form of an arch, at the opening of the inclosure.
+
+We will now ask our readers to turn their attention to the next
+illustration, in order to understand what is to follow. This picture
+shows the method of setting the trap.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+After the arch is firmly fixed in its place, a short piece of stick
+should be cut, of a length corresponding to the height of the arch.
+To the middle of this stick the bait should be attached, being
+either tied to it or stuck on a plug driven into the stick, the
+latter being sharpened on one end. Next proceed to cut another
+stick, of about six inches in length; let this be flattened on
+one end. The wire noose should then be fastened to the opposite
+end. The noose in this case should be large enough to fill the
+opening of the arch. We will now go back to the sapling again.
+It should be bent down slightly, and a piece of the strong twine
+should be tied to its tip. Taking hold of the string, proceed to
+bend down the end of the sapling, in the direction of the inclosure,
+until it draws with a force strong enough to lift a rabbit if he
+were tied to the end of it. Thus holding it down with the string
+against the front of the inclosure, cut off the twine at the place
+where it crosses the top of the arch, as this will be the required
+length. It is now necessary to tie the end of this string to the
+same piece of wood and at the same place to which the noose was
+tied. When this is done the trap may be set as shown in the cut.
+The spring sapling should be bent as seen in the first illustration.
+The piece of wood holding the noose should be passed beneath the
+top of the arch, as far as it will go, with its long end pointing
+inside the inclosure. By now supporting the inside end with the
+bait stick, and carefully adjusting the noose so as to completely
+fill the arch, the trap will be set.
+
+[Page 46]
+In order to reach the bait, the rabbit or bird _must_ necessarily
+pass its head through the noose, after which, if the bait be scarcely
+_touched_, the animal's doom is sealed, and he is lifted into the
+air, generally suffering almost instant death. It is well known
+that in the case of a rabbit the neck is broken by a very slight
+blow, a strong snap of the finger being often sufficient. It is
+therefore safe to conclude that when thus suddenly caught and lifted
+by the noose, death must occur almost instantaneously from the
+same cause.
+
+It is not really necessary for success that the force of the sapling
+should be strong enough to lift the rabbit from the ground, as a
+mere strong tightening of the noose would be sufficient to cause
+strangulation and death. But we recommend the former method as
+being less painful and more rapid in its effects.
+
+If the young trapper should experience any difficulty in finding
+saplings of the right size, in the locality where he desires to
+set his traps, the difficulty may be easily mended by cutting the
+poles elsewhere, and carrying them to his trapping-ground, this
+answering the purpose equally well. They should be sharpened nicely
+on the large end, and firmly stuck into ground. The "Twitch-up"
+may be used for the capture of all varieties of game, and when
+set with the noose in the opening of a hollow tree, a stray coon
+will occasionally be entrapped.
+
+The next figure represents another method of constructing this
+trap, The picture explains itself. Instead of the arch, two notched
+sticks are driven into the ground, one on each side of the opening
+of the pen, The other piece should be of the shape shown in the
+figure, made either in one piece or in two pieces fastened together.
+They may all be constructed from twigs in the woods. Let the noose
+and draw-string now be fastened to the middle of the cross piece,
+and when set it will appear as in our figure. It will easily be
+seen that a slight pull on the bait will turn the cross piece from
+beneath the notches, and allow it to fly into the air.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 2]
+
+In our next instance the same principle is employed. The
+[Page 47]
+notched pegs are here driven in the back part of the pen, about
+five inches apart, with their notches towards the front. A forked
+bait stick of the shape shown is then procured. The draw-string
+should be attached near the end furthest from the fork. By now
+inserting the ends lightly beneath the notches in the pegs, at
+the same time letting the bait incline near the ground, the trap
+will be set on a very slight lift, as the bait will dislodge the
+pieces. Of course the noose must be arranged in the opening of the
+pen, as in the previous varieties. The bait stick in both cases
+should be set cautiously beneath the notches, as shown at (_a_),
+so that the slightest turn will cause it to roll out of position.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 3]
+
+A fourth method of snaring is shown in our next figure. In this
+instance the original arch is used, or else some circular opening
+constructed in the front of the pen. Inside, at the back part of
+the inclosure, a smaller arch is placed. Two sticks are then to
+be made similar to those mentioned in our first example of the
+"Twitch-up." Let the draw-string be tied to the end of one of these
+sticks; after which it should be passed under the inside arch, being
+brought out in front of it, and there supported by the bait-stick,
+as seen in our illustration. The noose should then be attached
+to the draw-string above the pen, and afterward brought down and
+arranged in front of the opening. The trap is then set, and will
+be found on trial to work admirably.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 4]
+
+One of the simplest as well as _surest_ of "Twitch-up" traps forms
+the subject of our next illustration. Like the foregoing varieties
+it is of course to be surrounded by its pen, and supplied with a
+circular opening or arch at one side, in which to hang the noose.
+It is constructed of three twigs. A simple crotch (_a_) should be
+firmly inserted in the ground at
+[Page 48]
+the back part of the pen; (_b_) the bait stick, consists of a straight
+twig, five or six inches in length, and should be attached to the
+draw-string at about half an inch from the large end; (_c_) is
+another forked stick with unequal arms, the long one being driven
+into the ground near the opening of the pen and a little to one side,
+letting the remaining arm point directly towards the crotch-stick
+at the back of the pen. The noose having been attached to the
+draw-string, the trap may now be set. Lower the bait stick and pass
+the large end under the crotch at the back of the pen, catching
+the baited end underneath the tip of the forked stick near the
+pen's opening. Arrange the noose in front of the entrance, and
+the thing is done. A mere touch on the bait will suffice to throw
+the pieces asunder. It is an excellent plan to sharpen the point
+of the forked stick (_c_) where it comes in contact with the bait
+stick, in order to make the bearing more slight, and consequently
+more easily thrown from its balance.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 5]
+
+
+THE POACHER'S' SNARE.
+
+Our next example represents one of the oldest and best snares in
+existence,--simple in construction, and almost infallible in its
+operations. It is the one in most common use among the poachers of
+England, hence its name. The pieces are three in number, and may
+be cut from pine wood, affording easy and profitable employment
+for the jack-knife during odd hours and rainy days, when time hangs
+heavily.
+
+The pieces are so simple in form and easy of construction that a
+sufficient number for fifty traps might be whittled in less than two
+hours, by any smart boy, who is at all "handy" with his jack-knife.
+
+If a few good broad shingles can be found, the work is even much
+easier,--mere splitting and notching being then all that is necessary.
+The bait stick should be about eight inches long, pointed at one
+end, and supplied with a notch in the other at about half an inch
+[Page 49]
+from the tip. The upright stick should be considerably shorter than
+the bait stick, and have a length of about ten inches, one end being
+nicely pointed, and the broad side of the other extremity supplied
+with a notch similar to the bait stick. About four inches from the
+blunt end, and on the narrow side of the stick, a square notch should
+be cut, sufficiently large to admit the bait stick loosely. The catch
+piece now remains. This should be about two and a-half inches in
+width, and bevelled off at each end into a flat edge. The shapes of
+the different pieces, together with their setting, will be readily
+understood by a look at our illustration.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A hundred of these pieces will make a small bundle, and may be easily
+carried by the young trapper, together with his other necessaries,
+as he starts off into the woods. He will thus be supplied with parts
+for thirty-three traps, all ready to be set, only requiring the
+stakes for the pens, which may be easily cut in the woods. Having
+selected a flexible sapling about five feet in length, and having
+stripped it of its branches, proceed to adjust the pieces. Take one
+of the upright sticks, and insert it firmly in the ground, with
+its upper notch facing the sapling, and at about four feet distant
+from it. Bend down the "springer," and by its force determine the
+required length for the draw-string attaching one end to the tip
+of the sapling, and the other near the end of a catch piece, the
+latter having its bevelled side uppermost. The wire noose should
+then be attached to the draw-string about six inches above the
+catch-piece. The pen should now be constructed as previously directed.
+Its entrance should be on the side _furthest_ from the springer,
+and should be so built as that the peg in the ground shall be at
+the back part of the enclosure. The pen being finished, the trap
+may be set.
+
+Insert the bait stick with bait attached into the square notch in
+the side of the upright peg; or, if desired, it may be adjusted by
+a pivot or nail through both sticks, as seen in our illustration,
+always letting the baited end project toward the
+[Page 50]
+opening. Draw down the catch piece, and fit its ends into the notches
+in the back of the upright peg and extremity of the bait-stick.
+By now pulling the latter slightly, and gently withdrawing the
+hand, the pieces will hold themselves together, only awaiting a
+lift at the bait to dislodge them. Adjust the wire loop at the
+opening of the pen, and you may leave the trap with the utmost
+confidence in its ability to take care of itself, and any unlucky
+intruder who tries to steal its property.
+
+Most of the snares which we shall describe are constructed from
+rough twigs, as these are always to be found in the woods, and
+with a little practice are easily cut and shaped into the desired
+forms. If desired, however, many of them may be whittled from pine
+wood like the foregoing, and the pieces carried in a bundle, ready
+for immediate use. In either case, whether made from the rough
+twigs or seasoned wood, it is a good plan to have them already
+prepared, and thus save time at the trapping ground when time is
+more valuable.
+
+
+THE PORTABLE SNARE.
+
+This is simply a modification of the snare just described, but
+possesses decided advantages over it in many respects. In the first
+place, it requires little or no protection in the shape of an enclosure.
+It can be set in trees or in swamps, or in short in _any_ place
+where an upright elastic branch can be found or adjusted. Like
+the foregoing, it is to be commended for its portability, fifty
+or sixty of the pieces making but a small parcel, and furnishing
+material for a score of traps. We call it the "portable snare"
+partly in order to distinguish it from the one just described,
+but chiefly because this particular variety is generally called
+by that name in countries where it is most used.
+
+It is composed of three pieces, all to be cut from a shingle or thin
+board. Let the first be about eight inches long, and three-quarters
+of an inch in width. This is for the upright. An oblong mortise
+should be cut through this piece, one inch in length, and beginning
+at about an inch from the end of the stick. Three inches from the
+other end, and on one of the broad sides of the stick, a notch
+should be made, corresponding in shape to that shown in our
+illustration. The bait stick should be four or five inches long,
+one end fitting easily into the mortise, where it should be secured
+[Page 51]
+by a wire or smooth nail driven through so as to form a hinge, on
+which it will work easily. On the upper side of this stick, and two
+inches distant from the pivot, a notch should be cut, similar to that
+in the upright. The catch piece should be about two inches in length,
+and bevelled off to a fiat edge at each end. This completes the pieces.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+To set the trap, it is only necessary to find some stout sapling,
+after which the upright stick may be attached to it close to the
+ground, by the aid of two pieces of stout iron wire, twisted firmly
+around both. It is well to cut slight grooves at each end of the
+upright for the reception of the wires, in order to prevent slipping.
+Tie a strong piece of twine around one
+[Page 52]
+end of the catch piece, knotting it on the beveled side. Cut the
+string about two feet in length, and attach the other end to the
+tip of the sapling. Adjust the bait stick on its pivot. By now
+lowering the catch piece, and lodging the knotted end beneath the
+notch in the upright and the other end in the notch on the bait
+stick, the pieces will appear as in our drawing. Care should be
+taken to set the catch pieces as slightly as possible in the notches,
+in order to insure sensitiveness. At about four inches from the
+catch piece, the wire noose should be attached and arranged in a
+circle directly around the bait. By now backing up the trap with
+a few sticks to prevent the bait from being approached from behind,
+the thing is complete, and woe to the misguided creature that dares
+to test its efficacy. By adjusting the drawstring so far as the
+upper end of the catch piece, the leverage on the bait stick is
+so slight as to require a mere touch to overcome it; and we may
+safely say that, when this trap is once baited, it will stay baited,
+so far as animal intruders are concerned, as we never yet have
+seen a rabbit or bird skilful enough to remove the tempting morsel
+before being summarily dealt with by the noose on guard duty.
+
+For portability, however, the following has no equal.
+
+
+THE "SIMPLEST" SNARE.
+
+This is one of the most ingenious and effective devices used in
+the art of trapping; and the principle is so simple and universal
+in its application to traps in general as to become a matter of
+great value to all who are at all interested in the subject. There
+is scarcely a trap of any kind which could not be set with the
+knotted string and bait stick, at the expense of a little thought
+and ingenuity. The principle is easily understood by a look at
+our engraving, which probably represents the _simplest_ twitch-up
+it is possible to construct. A stout wooden peg, having a hole the
+size of a lead pencil near the top, is driven firmly into the
+[Page 53]
+ground. The "knot" is made on the end of the draw-string, and passed
+through the hole in the peg from behind, being secured in place
+by the insertion of the bait stick in front. The latter should be
+about four inches long, and should be inserted very lightly,--merely
+enough to prevent the knot from slipping back. The noose should be
+fastened to the draw-string six or seven inches from the knot,
+and arranged in front of the bait at the opening of the pen, which
+should be constructed as previously directed. The peg should be
+about six inches long and the hole should be made with a 1-3 inch
+auger. Dozens of these pegs may be carried without inconvenience,
+and utilized in the same number of snares, in a very short time.
+We have already described the so-called "portable snare;" but, for
+portability, there is no noose-trap to be compared with the above.
+We give also a few other applications of the same principle.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 1]
+
+In the second example, a horizontal stick is used instead of the
+peg, the hole being made in its centre. Its ends are caught in
+notches in opposite sticks at the back part of the pen, and the
+noose arranged at the opening.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 2]
+
+Again, by a third method (see engraving next page), these notched
+sticks may be driven into the ground first, and a row of twigs
+continued on them on both sides, thus leaving a passageway between
+as represented in the illustration. A noose may then be set at
+each opening, with the bait in the middle; so that, at whichever
+side it is approached, the result is the same, besides affording
+a chance of securing two birds at the same time.
+
+
+THE QUAIL SNARE.
+
+That quails are sociable in their habits, and that they run together
+in broods in search of their food, is a fact well known
+[Page 54]
+to all sportsmen. A most excellent opportunity is thus afforded
+the hunter to secure several at one shot, and the same advantage
+may be gained by the trapper by specially arranging for it. For
+this purpose there is no invention more desirable or effective than
+the snare we next illustrate; and on account of the companionable
+habits of the quail, it is just as sure to catch six birds as one.
+The principle on which the trap works, is the same as in the three
+foregoing.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 3]
+
+Two notched pegs are first driven into the ground, about four inches
+apart, and the flat stick with the hole in the centre caught beneath
+these summits, as just described. It should be firmly secured;
+several nooses are next to be attached to the drawstring, and the
+trap set as already directed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The best bait consists of a "nub" of pop-corn, firmly impaled on
+the spindle, together with a few loose grains scattered on the ground
+right beneath it. The nooses should be arranged around the bait so
+as to touch or overlap each other, and the bait stick introduced
+into the hole a little more firmly than when set with one noose. The
+quail on reaching the trap all rush for the corn on the ground,
+and thus fill nearly if not all the nooses. When the supply here
+is exhausted, then united attacks are directed towards the "nub"
+on the bait stick, which soon becomes loosened: the knot is thus
+released and each noose will probably launch a victim in mid-air.
+This invention is original with the author of this work, so far
+as he knows; and it will be found the simplest as well as most
+effective quail snare in existence. Pop-corn is mentioned as bait
+partly on account of its being a favorite food with the quail;
+but particularly because the _pecking_ which it necessitates
+[Page 55]
+in order to remove the grains from the cob, is sure to spring the
+trap. If pop corn cannot be had, common Indian corn will answer
+very well. Oats or buckwheat may also be used, as the ground bait,
+if desired.
+
+
+THE BOX SNARE.
+
+This is a most unique device, and will well repay anyone who may
+desire to test its merits. It may be set for rabbits, coon, or
+feathered game, of course varying the size of the box accordingly. For
+ordinary purposes, it should be seven or eight inches square, leaving
+one end open. Place it in the position shown in the illustration
+and proceed to bore an auger hole in the top board, one and a half
+inches from the back edge.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is for the reception of the bait stick. Directly opposite
+to this and an inch from the front edge of the board a notched
+peg should be inserted. A gimlet hole should now be bored on a
+line between the auger hole and notched peg, and half an inch from
+the latter. A small stout screw eye should next be inserted at
+the rear edge of the board, and another one fastened to the back
+board, two inches from the bottom. With these simple preparations
+the box is complete. The bait stick should be about five or six
+inches long and supplied with a notch at the upper end. It should be
+of such a size as to pass easily into the auger hole, and provided
+with a peg inserted through it at about an inch and a half from
+the notched end, as shown in our illustration at (_a_). The object
+of this peg is to prevent the bait stick from being drawn entirely
+[Page 56]
+through the hole by the force of the pull from above. The catch piece
+should be only long enough to secure its ends beneath the notches in
+the peg at the top of the box and the projecting bait stick. It should
+be bevelled off at the tips as in the instances previously described,
+and attached to a piece of sucker wire, the point of attachment being
+at about an inch from the end of the stick. The wire should be about
+two and a half feet in length, the catch piece being fastened at about
+six inches from one end. To set this neat little invention it is
+first necessary to procure a strong and elastic switch about four
+feet in length, sharpen it slightly at the large end and insert
+it firmly in the screw eye at the back of the box, securing it in
+place at the top by strings through the screw eye at that place. By
+now attaching the short end of the wire to the tip of the sapling,
+inserting the bait stick from the inside of the box, and securing the
+catch piece in the notches, the other pieces will be in equilibrium,
+and the only remaining thing to be done is to pass the long end
+of the wire through the gimlet hole, and form it into a slipping
+noose which shall completely fill the opening of the box. In order
+to reach the bait the animal must pass his head through the noose,
+and it can be easily seen that the slightest pull on that tempting
+morsel will release the catch piece and tighten the wire around
+the neck of the intruder. Where the trap is small and the captured
+animal is large, it will sometimes happen that the box will be
+carried a distance of several feet before overpowering its victim;
+but it is sure to do it in the end if the spring powers of the
+sapling are strong and it is firmly secured to the box. If desired,
+the box may be tied to a neighboring stone or tree to prevent any
+such capers; but it will generally be found unnecessary, and a few
+minutes' search will always reveal it with its unlucky captive.
+
+We have described the box with its spring attached; but this is not
+a requisite, as it may be used with growing sapling when required.
+
+The same trap may be constructed of a pasteboard box and whalebone,
+for the capture of small birds, and used with good success. The
+size we have mentioned is adaptable for rabbits and animals of
+the same size, but is really larger than necessary for feathered
+game.
+
+
+THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.
+
+This is another embodiment of the same principle which has already
+been described, viz.--the knotted string. By many it
+[Page 57]
+is considered an improvement on the box snare just mentioned, owing
+to the possibility of its taking two victims at the same time. It
+may be set for rabbits, mink, or muskrat, and will be found very
+efficient.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It consists of a box about eight inches square, one foot in length,
+and open at both ends. In the centre of the top board a hole of the
+diameter of a lead pencil should be bored, and a smaller aperture
+also made in the middle of each end near the edge as seen in the
+accompanying engraving. The spring is next required. This should
+consist of an elastic switch or small pole, three or more feet
+in length. It should be inserted in a slanting auger hole, made
+through the middle of one of the side boards near the bottom at
+the angle shown at (_a_). Should the switch fit loosely it may be
+easily tightened by a small wedge driven in beside it. The bait
+stick (_b_) should be about four inches in length, and large enough
+to fit easily into the hole in the centre of the top board. Next
+procure a stout bit of cord about eight inches in length. Tie one
+[Page 58]
+end to the tip of the switch and provide the other with a large
+double knot. A second knot should then be made, about an inch and
+a half above the first. A piece of sucker wire is the next necessity.
+Its length should be about five feet, and its centre should be tied
+over the uppermost knot in the string. If the bait is now in readiness,
+the trap may be set. Bend down the switch until the end knot will pass
+through the hole in the centre of the board. When it appears in the
+inside of the box, it should then be secured by the insertion of the
+top of the bait stick, as shown at (_b_). This insertion need be only
+very slight, a sixteenth of an inch being all that is sufficient
+to prevent the knot from slipping back. The spring is thus held
+in the position seen in the drawing, and the loose ends of the
+sucker wire should then be passed downward through the small holes
+and arranged in nooses at both openings of the box. Our trap is
+now set, and the unlucky creature which attempts to move that bait
+from either approach, will bring its career to an untimely end.
+The bait stick may be so delicately adjusted as to need only the
+slightest touch to dislodge it. Such a fine setting is to be guarded
+against, however, being as likely to be sprung by a mouse as by
+a larger animal. The setting is easily regulated, being entirely
+dependent upon the slight or firm insertion of the bait stick.
+Among all the "modi operandi" in the construction of traps, there
+is scarcely one more simple than the principle embodied in this
+variety, and there is none more effective.
+
+The box snare already described may be set by the same method,
+and indeed the principle may be applied to almost any trap, from
+the simplest snare described on page (52) to the largest dead-fall.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+GROUND SNARES.
+
+THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is the variety of snare which has been in very common use
+for ages, and has always been the one solitary example of a noose
+trap which our "boys' books" have invariably pounced upon for
+illustration. For the capture of small birds it works very nicely;
+and as without it our list of traps would be incomplete, we will
+give an illustration of it as it appears when
+[Page 59]
+set and ready for its work. In constructing the affair it is first
+necessary to cut a flexible twig of willow or bramble about eighteen
+inches in length, and form it into a loop as seen at (_a_), securing
+the tips by a few circuits of string, and allowing the larger end
+to project an inch or more beyond the other. This loop, which is
+called the "spreader," should now be laid down flat; and on the
+upper side of the large end and about an inch from its tip, a notch
+should be cut as our illustration shows. The spring should next be
+procured, and should consist of a pliant, elastic switch, about
+four feet in length. A piece of fish line about two feet long,
+should now be fastened to the tip of the switch, and the loose
+end of the cord attached to a catch piece of the shape shown at
+(_b_). This catch may be about an inch and a half long, and should
+be whittled off to an edge on one end, the string being attached at
+about its centre. A slipping noose, made from strong horse hair,
+or piece of fine wire about two feet long, should now be fastened
+to the string about two inches above the catch. Having the switch
+thus prepared, it is ready to be inserted in the ground at the place
+selected for the trap. When this is done, another small flexible
+twig about a foot in length should cut, and being sharpened at
+both ends, should be inserted in the ground in the form of an arch
+(_c_), at about three feet distant from the spring, and having its
+broad side toward it. Insert the notch of the spreader exactly
+under the top of the arc, and note the spot where the curved end
+of the former touches the ground. At this point a peg (_d_) should
+be driven leaving a projecting portion of about two inches. The
+[Page 60]
+pieces are now ready to be adjusted. Pass the curved end of the
+spreader over the peg, bringing the notched end beneath the arc with
+the notch uppermost. Draw down the catch piece, and pass it beneath
+the arc from the opposite side letting the bevelled end catch in the
+notch in the spreader, the other end resting against the upper part
+of the arc. Arrange the slipping noose over the spreader as our
+drawing indicates, bringing it _inside_ the peg, as there shown, as
+otherwise it would catch upon it when the snare is sprung. Strew the
+bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or the like, _inside_ the
+spreader, and all is ready. Presently a little bird is seen to settle
+on the ground in the neighborhood of the trap; he spies the bait and
+hopping towards it, gradually makes bold enough to alight upon the
+spreader, which by his weight immediately falls, the catch is released,
+the switch flies up, and the unlucky bird dangles in the air by the
+legs. If the trapper is near he can easily release the struggling
+creature before it is at all injured, otherwise it will flutter
+itself into a speedy death.
+
+
+THE IMPROVED SPRINGLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The accompanying cut illustrates an improvement on the last mentioned
+trap, whereby it can be used for the capture of larger game, and
+with most excellent success. In place of the "spreader" a crotched
+stick is used, the crotch of which catches around the peg, the other
+end being supplied with a notch as in the case of the spreader.
+On the upper side of this stick a small pasteboard platform is
+tacked, over which and beneath which the bait is thrown. Instead
+of the arc, a stout crotch stick is substituted. The noose should
+be at least ten inches in diameter and constructed of sucker wire.
+It should be arranged on the ground around the bait and inside
+of the peg. When the snare is set, the crotched end of the bait
+stick will thus rest near the earth, the notched end only being
+lifted in order to reach the catch piece. It is well to insert
+a few small sticks inside the edge of the noose in order to keep
+it in correct position. If properly set, the quail or partridge
+[Page 61]
+in approaching the trap will have to step _inside_ the noose in order
+to reach the bait, and while thus regaling itself with a choice meal
+of oats, berries, or other delicacies, will be sure to press upon the
+bait stick either by pecking, or treading upon it, and will thus set
+the catch piece free, only to find itself secured by a grasp from
+which he will never escape alive. This is a very effectual snare;
+but on account of its securing its victim by the legs and thus
+torturing them to death, it is to be deprecated. We would recommend
+in preference, those varieties already described as being fully as
+successful, and far less cruel. They effect almost instant death,
+either by broken necks or strangulation, and are in this regard
+among the most humane traps on record.
+
+
+THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+For simplicity in construction there are few snare traps which
+can compare with this variety, although it is somewhat similar
+to those last mentioned, and like them, catches by the feet. The
+trap consists of three pieces. A catch piece about three inches
+long, a bait stick of about six inches, and a stout crotch of the
+proportionate size shown in our illustration, a glance at which
+will make the setting too clear to need description. Be careful
+that the bait stick is set _fine_ and rests _just beneath_ the
+_tip_ of the catch-piece so that a mere touch on the bait will
+release it. Arrange the noose as in the instance last described,
+and bait either as therein directed or with an apple or nubbin
+of corn, as our accompanying cut indicates. Always remembering
+that the noose should be sufficiently large to require the birds
+to step _inside_ of it in order to reach the bait.
+
+
+THE PLATFORM SNARE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This odd invention will be found to work capitally as a game trap,
+and the only extra requisite necessary consists of a slab or light
+board about seven inches wide, and a foot in length. Having selected
+the spot for the trap, proceed to cut a stiff
+[Page 62]
+switch about five feet in length, and having sharpened the larger
+end to a nice point, insert it firmly into the ground in a slanting
+direction as our drawing illustrates. Next bend down the tip of
+the sapling, and resting one end of the board on the ground, catch
+the tip of the switch against the other end, as our illustration
+also shows. A little experimenting will soon determine the right
+place for the board, after which two pegs should be driven in the
+ground at its edge to hold it against the pressure on the opposite
+end. This being done fasten a wire noose to the tip of the switch,
+after which the pen is the only thing required. This should be
+built of simple little twigs arranged around three sides of the
+board, leaving the front end open. To set the snare, lower the
+switch and raising the board slightly at the back end, catch the
+tip of the springer behind it, afterwards arranging the noose over
+the platform, and scattering the bait inside. If the trap has been
+constructed properly and set "fine" it will take but a very slight
+weight on the platform to lower it from its bearing, the weight of
+an ordinary bird being sufficient, and the springer thus released
+will fly forward either catching its victim by the neck or legs,
+as the case may be. It may sometimes be found necessary to cut
+a slight notch in the end of the springer to receive the board,
+but in every case it should be tried several times in order to
+be sure that it works sensitively.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 63]
+[Illustration: TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME]
+
+[Page 65]
+BOOK III.
+
+TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.
+
+[Illustration: A]mong the following will be found the various net
+and cage traps commonly used in the capture of winged game, besides
+several other unique devices in the shape of box traps, etc., many
+of which are original with the author of this work and appear in
+the present volume for the first time in book form. Commonest among
+bird-catching machines, is the well known invention of
+
+
+THE SIEVE TRAP.
+
+This device certainly possesses one great advantage:--_it is not
+complicated_. Any one possessed of a sieve and a piece of string
+can get up the trap at two minutes' notice, and provided he has
+patience, and can wait for his little bird, he is almost sure to
+be rewarded for his pains,--if he wait long enough. This of course
+depends upon circumstances: when the birds are plenty and are not
+shy, it is a common thing to secure three or four at once in a
+very few minutes, while at other times an hour's patient waiting
+is unrewarded.
+
+The trap consists only of a sieve tilted up on edge and thus propped
+in position by a slender stick. To this stick a string or thread is
+attached and the same carried to some near place of concealment,
+when the trapper may retire out of sight and watch for his "little
+bird." The ground beneath the sieve is strewn with bread crumbs,
+seed or other bait, and while the unsuspecting birds are enjoying
+their repast, the string is pulled and they are made prisoners.
+The sieve may be arranged with a spindle as described for the coop
+trap, page (68), and may thus be left to take care of itself. Where
+[Page 66]
+the birds are plenty and easily captured, the former method answers
+the purpose perfectly, but when tedious waiting is likely to ensue
+the self-acting trap is better.
+
+
+THE BRICK TRAP.
+
+This is a very old invention, and has always been one of the three
+or four stereotyped specimens of traps selected for publication in
+all Boys' Books. It is probably well known to most of our readers.
+
+Take four bricks, and arrange them on the ground, as seen in our
+engraving, letting them rest on their _narrow_ sides. If properly
+arranged, they should have a space between them, nearly as large
+as the broad surface of the brick. A small, forked twig of the
+shape shown in the separate drawing (_b_) having a small piece
+cut away from each side of the end, should then be procured. Next
+cut a slender stick, about four inches in length, bluntly pointed
+at each end. A small plug with a flat top should now be driven
+into the ground, inside the trap, about three inches from either
+of the end bricks and projecting about two inches from the ground.
+The trap is then ready to be set. Lay the flat end of the forked
+twig over the top of the plug, with the forks pointing forward,
+or toward the end of the enclosure nearest the plug. The pointed
+stick should then be adjusted, placing one end on the flat end of
+the fork, over the plug, and the other beneath the fifth brick,
+which should be rested upon it. The drawing (_b_) clearly shows
+the arrangement of the pieces. The bait, consisting of berries,
+bird-seed, or other similar substances should then be scattered
+on the ground on the inside of the enclosure. When the bird flies
+[Page 67]
+to the trap he will generally alight on the forked twig, which by
+his weight tilts to one side and dislodges the pieces, thus letting
+fall the sustained brick.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It is not intended to kill the bird, and when rightly constructed
+will capture it alive. Care is necessary in setting the topmost
+brick in such a position that it will fall aright, and completely
+cover the open space. This is a very simple and effectual little
+contrivance, and can be made with a _box_ instead of bricks, if
+desired. A piece of board may also be substituted for the top brick,
+and the enclosure beneath made larger by spreading the bricks further
+apart, thus making a more roomy dungeon for the captive bird.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+THE COOP TRAP.
+
+This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and large
+feathered game, and is used to a considerable extent by trappers
+throughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures its victims
+without harm and furnishes the additional advantage of good ventilation
+for the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary coop may be used in the
+construction of this trap, although the homely one we illustrate
+is most commonly employed on account of its simplicity and easy
+manufacture. It also does away with the troublesome necessity of
+carrying a coop to the trapping ground, as it can be made in a
+very few minutes with common rough hewn twigs by the clever use
+of the jack knife. The only remaining requisites consist of a few
+yards of very stout Indian twine, several small squares of brown
+pasteboard, a dozen tacks and a number of pieces of board five
+inches square, each one having a hole through its centre, as our
+engraving (_b_) indicates. Having these, the young trapper starts
+out with material sufficient for several coops, and if he is smart
+[Page 68]
+will find no difficulty in making and setting a dozen traps in a
+forenoon.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cut
+four stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen inches
+in length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knot
+come on the inside as our illustration (_a_) explains and leaving
+a loose length of about two feet of string from each corner. This
+forms the base of the coop. Next collect from a number of twigs of
+about the same thickness, and from them select two more corresponding
+in length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the base of the coop
+on the ground, and collected the strings inside proceed to lay
+the two selected sticks across the ends of the
+[Page 69]
+uppermost two of the square, and directly above the lower two.
+Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cut
+and laid across the ends of the last two, and directly above the
+second set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of equal
+size, one directly over the other. The next pair of sticks should
+be a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be placed a
+little inside the square. Let the next two be of the same size as
+the last and also rest a little inside of those beneath them, thus
+forming the commencement of the conical shape which our engraving
+presents. By thus continuing alternate layers of the two sticks
+cob-house fashion, each layer being closer than the one previous,
+the pyramid will be easily and quickly formed. After ten or a dozen
+sets have been laid in place, the arm should be introduced into
+the opening at the top, and the four cords drawn out, letting each
+one lay along its inside corner of the pyramid. Taking the strings
+loosely in the left hand and having the twigs in readiness, proceed
+to build up the sides until the opening at the top is reduced to
+only four or five inches across. The square board will now come
+into play. Pass the ends of the cords through the hole in its centre
+and rest the edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, taking
+care that it is the tip of the grain of the wood instead of its
+side, as otherwise it would be likely to crack from the pressure
+that is about to be brought upon it. Have ready a stout peg of
+hard wood, and laying it over the hole in the board, and between
+the strings, proceed to tie the latter as tightly as possible over
+it. By now turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightened
+and the various pieces of the coops will be drawn together with
+great firmness, in which state they may be secured by the aid of
+a tack driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shown
+at (_b_). Thus we have a neat and serviceable coop, which will
+last for many seasons. To _set_ the affair it is necessary to cut
+three sticks of the shapes shown in our illustration. The prop
+piece is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length from
+the tip to the base of the crotch. The spindle is another hooked
+twig of the same length: the bait piece is quite similar to the
+latter, only an inch shorter and supplied with a square notch at
+the tip. It is also slightly whittled off on the upper side to
+receive the square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold the bait
+and which may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of these
+twigs may be easily found in any thicket by a little practice in
+searching. In setting the trap, it is only necessary to raise up
+one side of the coop to the height of the prop stick, insert the
+[Page 70]
+short arm of the spindle through the fork and beneath the edge of
+the coop. While holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of the
+bait stick around the lower piece at the back of the coop, and
+pushing the end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the notch
+of the bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to be
+baited. The bait may consist of oats, wheat, "nannie berries" or the
+like, and should be strewn both on the platform and over the ground
+directly _beneath_ and around it. If properly set, a mere peck at the
+corn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the coop will fall
+over its captive. It is not an uncommon thing to find two or even
+three quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one fall, and after
+the first momentary fright is over, they seem to resign themselves
+to their fate and take to their confinement as naturally as if
+they had been brought up to it.
+
+The method of setting the coop trap above described is a great
+improvement on the old style of setting, and is an improvement
+original with the author of this work. In the old method a semi-circular
+hoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick above. The ends
+of the rattan are fastened to one of the lower back pieces of the
+coop, and the hoop is just large enough to fit inside the opening of
+the coop. This rattan rests just above the ground, and the spindle
+catches against its inside edge in place of the notch in the bait
+stick already described, the bait being scattered inside the hoop.
+When the bird approaches, it steps upon the rattan, and thus pressing
+it downward releases the spindle and the coop falls; but experience
+has shown the author that it does not always secure its intruders,
+but as often falls upon their backs and sends them off limping
+to regain their lost senses. By the author's improvement it will
+be seen that the whole body of the bird _must_ be _beneath_ the
+coop before the bait sticks can be reached and that when properly
+set it is absolutely certain to secure its victim. The author can
+recommend it as infallible, and he feels certain that anyone giving
+both methods a fair trial will discard the old method as worthless
+in comparison.
+
+
+THE BAT FOWLING NET.
+
+With English bird-catchers this contrivance is in common use, but
+so far as we know it has not been utilized to any great extent in
+this country. It is chiefly used at night by the aid of a lantern,
+and large numbers of sparrows and other birds are often secured.
+
+[Page 71]
+[Illustration]
+
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the net, which may be
+constructed as follows: Procure two light flexible poles, about
+eight feet in length; to the tip of each a cord should be attached,
+and the same secured to the middle of the pole, having drawn down
+the tip to the bend, shown in our engraving. The two bent ends
+should now be attached together by a hinge of leather. A piece
+of mosquito netting is next in order, and it should be of such
+a size as to cover the upper bent halves of the poles, as seen
+in the illustration--the bottom edge being turned up into a bag,
+about ten inches in depth. The contrivance is now complete, and is
+used as follows: Three persons are generally required, and a dark
+night is chosen. Hay stacks, evergreens, and thick bushes offer a
+favorite shelter to numerous small birds, and it is here that they
+are sought by the bird-hunters. A breezy night is preferable, as
+the birds perch low, and are not so easily startled by unusual
+sounds.
+
+Great caution, however, is used in the approach. One party holds
+the light, which is generally a _dark_ lantern, another takes the
+net, and the third arms himself with a switch with which to beat
+the bushes. The net is first held upright about a foot from the
+bush, and the light thrown upon the back of it. The bush is then
+moderately beaten, and the birds affrighted and bewildered fly against
+the net, which is instantly closed. The bird is thus captured, and
+when a full roost can be discovered a large number may be taken
+in a single night. The lantern should be closed while not in actual
+use, and everything should be done as quietly as possible. The
+dark lantern in itself is useful without the net. The light often
+so bewilders the bird that it flies directly in the face of the
+lantern and flutters to the ground, where it may be easily taken
+with the hand.
+
+
+[Page 72]
+THE CLAP NET.
+
+In Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, this trap is a common
+resource for the capture of wild birds of various kinds. It may be
+called a "decoy" trap, from the fact that "call birds" are generally
+used in connection with it. They are placed at distances around the
+trap, and attract the wild birds to the spot by their cries. These
+birds are especially trained for the purpose, but almost any tamed
+bird that chirps will attract its mates from the near neighborhood,
+and answer the purpose very well. Sometimes the "decoys" are entirely
+dispensed with, and the "bird whistle" used in their stead. This
+will be described hereafter, and inasmuch as the training of a
+"decoy" would be a rather difficult matter, we rather recommend
+the use of the bird whistle. The skill and absolute perfection of
+mimicry which is often attained by bird fanciers with the use
+of this little whistle, is something surprising.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+No matter what the species of bird--whether crow, bobolink, thrush
+or sparrow, the song or call is so exactly imitated as to deceive
+the most experienced naturalist, and even various birds themselves.
+Of course this requires practice, but even a tyro may soon learn
+to use the whistle to good advantage.
+
+The clap net commonly used, is a large contrivance--so large that
+several hundred pigeons are often caught at once. It is "sprung"
+by the bird-hunter, who lies in ambush watching for the game. The
+net is generally constructed as follows, and may be made smaller
+if desired:--
+
+[Page 73]
+Procure two pieces of strong thread netting, each about fifteen
+feet in length, and five feet in width. Four wooden rods one inch
+in thickness and five feet in length are next required. These may
+be constructed of pine, ash, or any other light wood, and one should
+be securely whipped to each end of the netting.
+
+Now by the aid of a gimlet or a red-hot iron, the size of a slate
+pencil, bore a hole through one end of every piece one inch from
+the tip, taking care that the ends selected lay on the same side of
+the net. The other extremities of the four poles should be supplied,
+each with a large screw eye. Four pegs are next in order--one of
+which is shown separate at (_P_). It should be about eight inches
+in length, and three inches in width, and an inch in thickness, and
+sharpened to a point at one end. The other end should be supplied
+with a notch two inches in depth and of such a width as will easily
+secure the perforated end of one of the poles already described.
+By the use of the gimlet or a red-hot nail, a hole should now be
+bored through the side of every peg across the centre of the notch
+for the reception of a wire pin or smooth nail.
+
+The nets may now be rolled up on the poles, and the trapper may
+thus easily carry them to his selected trapping ground. This should
+be smooth and free from stones and irregularities. Unroll the nets
+and spread them flatly on the ground, as seen in the illustration.
+Let the perforated ends of the poles be innermost, and allow a
+space of six feet between the inner edges of the nets. Draw the
+net flatly on the ground, and drive one of the notched pegs at
+each of the inside corners, securing the poles into the slots by
+the aid of the wire pins or nails. Next cut four stakes eight or
+ten inches long. The places for these may be seen by a look at
+our engraving. Each one should be inserted _five feet_ distant
+from the notched peg, and _exactly_ on a line with the _inside_
+edge of the net--one for each corner. They should slant from the
+net in every case. To each one of these stakes a stay-rope should
+be secured, and the other end passed through the screw eye of the
+nearest pole, drawing the string tightly, so as to stretch the net
+perfectly square. Next, take a piece of cord, about twenty feet
+in length, and fasten it across the ends of the net into the screw
+eyes in the poles. This is the loop to which the draw-string is
+attached, and either end of the net may be chosen for this purpose.
+To this loop and a _little one side of the middle_, the draw-string
+should be fastened. If secured exactly in the middle of the loop,
+the two nets will _strike_ when the draw-rope is pulled, whereas
+[Page 74]
+when adjusted a little to one side, the nearest net will move a
+trifle faster than the other, and they will overlap neatly and without
+striking--completely covering the ground between them. When the
+trap is spread the draw-rope should extend to some near shelter
+where the bird-catcher may secrete himself from view. Spreading the
+bait on the ground between the nets, and arranging his call birds
+at the proper distances, he awaits his opportunity of springing
+his nets. At the proper minute, when the ground is dotted with his
+game, he pulls the draw-string, and the birds are secured.
+
+Immense numbers of wild fowl are often captured in this way.
+
+The "bird whistle," already alluded to, is often used with good
+effect, it being only sufficient to attract the birds to such a
+proximity to the net as will enable them to spy the bait, after
+which their capture is easily effected.
+
+
+THE BIRD WHISTLE.
+
+This instrument, also known as the prairie whistle, is clearly
+shown in our illustration. It is constructed as follows: First,
+procure a piece of morocco or thin leather. From it cut a circular
+piece one inch and a quarter in diameter. Through the centre of
+this disc, cut a round hole, one-third of an inch in diameter. A
+semi-circular piece of tin is next required. It should be of the
+shape of an arc, as seen in our illustration; its width across
+the ends being about three-quarters of an inch, and its entire
+length being pierced with a row of fine holes. Next procure a piece
+of thin sheet India rubber or gold beater's skin. Cut a strip about
+an inch in length by half an inch in width, and lay one of its long
+edges directly across the opening in the leather disc. Fold the
+leather in half (over the rubber), and draw the latter tightly. Next
+lay on the arc of tin in the position shown in the illustration, and
+by the aid of a fine needle and thread sew it through the holes,
+including both leather and rubber in the stitches. When this is
+done, the whistle is complete. If the gold beater's skin is not
+attainable, a good substitute may be found in the thin outer membrane
+of the leaf of a tough onion or leak, the pulp being scraped away.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 75]
+To use the whistle, place it against the roof of the mouth, tin
+side up, and with the edge of the rubber towards the front. When
+once wet, it will adhere to the roof of the mouth, and by skilful
+blowing, it can be made to send forth a most surprising variety
+of sounds. The quack of the duck and the song of the thrush may
+be made to follow each other in a single breath, and the squeal
+of a pig or the neigh of a horse are equally within its scope. In
+short, there is scarcely any animal, whether bird or quadruped,
+the cry of which may not be easily imitated by a skilful use of
+the prairie whistle, or, indeed, as it might with propriety be
+called, the "menagerie whistle."
+
+
+THE WILD GOOSE TRAP.
+
+In our northern cold regions, where the wild geese and ptarmigan
+flock in immense numbers, this trap is commonly utilized. It consists
+merely of a large net fifty feet in length, and fifteen in width,
+arranged on a framework, and propped in a slanting position by
+two poles, after the manner of the sieve trap. It is generally
+set on the ice; and the trapper, after attaching his strings to
+the props, and sprinkling his bait at the foot of the net, retires
+to a distance to await his chances. Tame geese are often used as
+decoys, and sometimes the bird whistle already described is used
+for the same purpose. For the capture of the ptarmigan, the bait
+consists of a heap of gravel. It is hard to imagine a less tempting
+allurement, but as the food of the birds during the winter is sapless
+and hard, it becomes necessary for them to swallow a considerable
+amount of gravel to promote digestion. The great depth of the snow
+renders this commodity very scarce during the winter season; and
+the Indians, taking advantage of this fact, succeed in capturing
+immense numbers of the game in nets by the use of that simple
+allurement. The gravel is packed on the surface of a pile of snow,
+placed under the centre of the net, and the draw-string is carried
+to some neighboring shrubbery or place of concealment, where the
+trapper can always get at it without being seen by the birds under
+the net.
+
+When everything is thus prepared, the hunters start out into the
+adjacent woods and willows, and drive their game toward the nets.
+This is generally an easy matter, and, no sooner do the birds come
+in sight of the heap of gravel, than they fly towards it _en masse_,
+and the ground beneath the net is soon covered with the hungry game.
+[Page 76]
+The hunter then goes to the end of the line, and, with a sudden pull,
+hauls down the stakes: the net fans over the birds, and they are
+prisoners.
+
+Hundreds of ptarmigan are often thus caught by a single sweep of
+the net. The trap is simply arranged, and may be constructed on
+a reduced scale for smaller birds, if desired.
+
+
+THE TRAP CAGE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Among bird-catchers generally, this is the favorite and most universal
+trap; and, where a _decoy_ bird is used, it is particularly successful.
+The cage is arranged in two compartments,
+[Page 77]
+one above the other,--the lower one being occupied by the call-birds.
+The making of the cage requires considerable ingenuity and much
+patience; and, for the benefit of those who may desire to exercise
+that patient ingenuity, we will subjoin a few hints, which may
+help them along in their efforts. For an ordinary cage, the height
+should be about one foot, the broad sides the same, and the top
+and other two sides eight inches. First cut four corner uprights.
+These should be three-quarters of an inch square, and one foot in
+length. Next cut a bottom board of pine, twelve inches by eight
+inches, and one inch in thickness. From each of its corners, cut a
+small cube of the wood, exactly three-quarters of an inch square,
+thus leaving four notches, which will exactly receive the ends of
+the uprights, as seen at (_a_). Before adjusting these pieces,
+the four sides of the boards should be pierced with small holes,
+as is also shown in the diagram (_a_). These may be punched with a
+brad-awl, and should be about half an inch apart, and three-eighths
+of an inch from the edge of the board. Each one of the uprights
+may then be secured in place by two long brads, one being hammered
+each way into each side of the notch. Next proceed to cut four more
+of the square sticks. Two of these should be one foot in length,
+and the remaining two eight inches. The corners of these should
+now be neatly bevelled off, so as to fit after the manner of a
+picture-frame. They should then be attached to
+[Page 78]
+the upper ends of the uprights by a brad through the corner of
+each, as seen at (_b_), the dotted lines indicating the end of
+the upright beneath. These sticks should likewise be pierced with
+holes to correspond with those in the bottom board, and running
+up and down in the direction of the wires.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The middle tier of braces are next required. Two of these should be
+ten and a half inches in length, and the other two six and a-half,
+and the ends should be perfectly smooth. These should now be punched
+with holes corresponding with those above, after which they may
+be inserted between the uprights as seen in the engraving, and
+secured by a brad at each end.
+
+The trap door is shown separate at (_c_). The side sticks should
+be eight inches in length, and one-half an inch square, and the
+top and bottom sticks five inches in length. They should be set
+in _between_ the side sticks, and the lower one should be secured
+about half an inch above the lower ends of the uprights, as seen
+in the illustration. The holes should be made in the side pieces,
+and the wire run across from side to side, as shown. Annealed iron,
+or copper wire is best for this purpose. The door should now be
+pivoted or hinged at the top of the cage, between the long sides,
+in such a position as that the top end shall rest on one of the
+narrow upper edges of the cage. A stiff wire should be used for
+the hinge, being passed through the top pieces of the cage into the
+lower ends of the door pieces. The cage may now be wired throughout.
+This is an easy matter, if the holes are properly made. About thirty
+yards of the wire will be required: iron wire is generally used.
+It should be about the size of a hair-pin, and should work easily.
+Commence by passing it from the under side of the bottom board
+through one of the holes next to the corner. Pass the wire upward,
+through the centre braces, again upward through the top piece and
+across to the opposite broad side and corresponding hole. From
+this point it should pass downwards, through centre brace, and
+again through the bottom. Draw the wire tightly and passing it
+upward through the hole next to it, bring it over the top of the
+cage and around again to the bottom edge from which it started.
+Continue thus until the hinge of the door is reached; after which
+the wire should be passed up and down on the same side and thus
+carried around the small end of the cage until it finally meets
+at the door hinge on the opposite side. The two halves of the cage
+should now be separated by a grating of wire, as seen in the main
+[Page 79]
+illustration. This may be accomplished either by passing the wire
+from side to side, around the base of each upright wire, or an
+additional horizontal row of holes below the others may be punched
+for the purpose. The door through which the call-bird is introduced
+should next be made in the bottom section. There are two ways of
+doing this: one method consists in sawing a hole three inches square
+in the bottom board of the cage; and a cover consisting of a piece
+of tin is made to slide beneath the heads of four tacks, two of which
+are placed on each side of the opening. This form of door is perhaps
+the simplest of the two. The other is shown separate at (_f_),
+together with its mode of attachment.
+
+It consists of two side pieces of wood, about a third of an inch
+square, and three inches in length, and two shorter ones, two inches
+in length. These are arranged into a square framework by a board
+in each corner. Four holes are to be pierced in each side piece,
+at equal distances. Commencing at the top, the door should then
+be wired as directed for the cage. The lowest hole on each side
+should be left open for a separate piece of wire. The cage should
+now receive attention. The broad side is generally selected for
+the door. Find the seven centre wires and connect them across the
+middle by another horizontal bit of wire. This may be easily done
+with a pair of pincers, by compressing a loop at each end of the
+wire around the two which run perpendicularly at its ends. When this
+is performed the five intermediate wires should be cut off about
+a quarter of an inch below the horizontal wire, and the projecting
+tips looped back over the cross piece, and made fast by the pincers.
+The lower parts of the upright wires may now be cut off close to the
+board. We will now take up the door. Pass a piece of wire through
+the holes at the bottom, clap the door over the opening, and loop
+the ends of the projecting wire loosely around the upright wires
+at each side. This will allow the door to slide easily up and down.
+Another wire should now be interlaced downwards through the centre
+of the door, and bent into a ring at the top. Let the door rest
+on the bottom of the cage, and, while in this position, adjust
+the ring at the top around the central wire directly behind it.
+The door is then complete, and, if properly made, will look neat
+and work easily.
+
+The "trap" at the top of the cage is next in order. To complete
+this it is first necessary to interweave a _stiff_ wire loop, as
+seen at (_d_). The loop should extend on the _inside_ of the lower
+piece of the door and about two inches below it. The
+[Page 80]
+_spring_ power consists of a piece of stiff hoop-skirt wire, interwoven
+between the wires of the top of the cage, and those of the door,
+while the latter is shut. The force of this will be sufficient
+to bring down the door with a snap; and for further security a
+catch, such as is described in page (88), may be added if desired.
+
+The spindle is next required. This is shown at (_g_), and consists
+of a small perch of wood seven inches in length, and notched at
+each end. In setting the trap, the door should be raised as seen
+in the main illustration. One of the notches in the spindle should
+now be caught beneath the loop and the other around one of the
+central wires in the end of the cage. The bait, consisting of a
+berry, bird-seed, or what-not, may be either fastened to the spindle
+or placed beneath on the wires. The call-bird having been introduced,
+the trap may now be left to itself. If the call-bird is well trained
+it will not be many minutes before the birds of the neighborhood will
+be attracted to the spot by its cries. Ere long one less cautious
+than the rest will be seen to perch upon the top of the cage. He
+soon discovers the bait, and alighting upon the perch, throws it
+asunder, and in an instant the trap door closes over its captive.
+The cage is sometimes constructed double, having two compartments
+beneath for call-birds, and two traps above, in general resembling
+two of the single traps placed side by side. The decoy bird is not
+an absolute necessity to the success of the trap. Many birds are
+caught simply by the bait alone. The trap cage, when constructed
+on a larger scale, is often successfully employed in the capture
+of the owl. In this case it is baited with a live mouse or bird,
+and set during the evening in a conspicuous place. A trap working
+on this principle, being especially adapted to the capture of the
+owl, will be noticed hereafter.
+
+
+THE SPRING NET TRAP.
+
+Although slightly complicated in construction, our next illustration
+presents one of the prettiest bird traps on record, and may be
+made in the following manner, and by frequently referring to the
+picture, our explanation will be easily understood.
+
+The first step is to make or procure a low flat box, about fifteen
+inches long, by ten inches in width, with a depth of about two
+inches. Next fasten an interior box, of the same
+[Page 81]
+height, leaving a space of about three-quarters of an inch between
+them all round. A platform should now be made. Let it be of such a
+size that it will just fit in the interior box, with a very slight
+space all around its edge. It should then be pivoted in the upper
+part of this box by two small slender pins, one being driven through
+into its edge, at the centre of each end. Let it be sensitively
+poised. The next thing to be done, is to arrange the spindle and
+catch. The latter should consist of a tack or small bit of wood
+fastened on the middle of the platform, about an inch from one
+end, as seen both in the main illustration and in the diagram at
+(_b_).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The spindle should consist of a flat piece of wood, secured with
+a leather hinge to the edge of the outside box, directly opposite
+the catch. Let it be long enough to reach and barely hold itself
+beneath the catch. When thus in its position, two small plugs should
+next be driven into the edge of the inner box, one on each side of
+the spindle, thus holding it in place. A glance at our illustration
+makes this clear. The netting and "hoop" are next in order. The hoop
+should consist of an iron wire of the diameter of common telegraph
+wire.
+
+For a box of the size we have given, a length of about twenty-eight
+inches will be found to answer. Before making the hoop, however,
+its hinges should be ready for it. Two screw eyes, or staples of
+bent wire should be driven into the bottom of the box between the
+two walls, one in the exact middle of each side. The iron wire
+should now be bent so as to fit round and settle into the space
+between the boxes, letting each end rest
+[Page 82]
+over the screws in the bottom. It will be found that there will
+be enough surplus wire on each end to form into a loop with the
+pincers. These loops should be passed through the screws or rings
+already inserted, and then pinched together; the hinge will thus
+be made, and will appear as at (_c_). If properly done, they should
+allow the hoop to pass freely from one end of the box to the other,
+and settle easily between the partitions. If this hinge should
+prove too complicated for our young readers, they may resort to
+another method, which, although not so durable, will answer very
+well. In this case the wire will only need to reach to the exact
+middle of the long sides. No surplus being necessary, a length
+of twenty-six inches will be exactly right. On each end a short
+loop of tough Indian twine should be tied. By now fastening these
+loops to the bottom of the box with tacks, in the place of screws,
+it will form a hinge which will answer the purpose of the more
+complicated one.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The netting should consist of common mosquito gauze, or, if this
+cannot be had, any thin cloth may be substituted. It should be
+sewed fast to the iron wire, from hinge to hinge, and then, with
+the hoops resting in its groove, the netting should be drawn over the
+platform, and tacked to the bottom of the groove, on its remaining
+half. It should rest loosely over the platform to allow plenty of
+space for the bird.
+
+But one more addition, and the trap is finished. We have mentioned
+the use of elastics in other varieties: they are of equal use here,
+and should be attached to the hoop as seen at (_a_) in the section
+drawing, the remaining ends being fastened to the bottom of the
+groove, as there indicated. These elastics should be placed on
+both sides, and stretched to such a tension as will draw the hoop
+quickly from one side to the other.
+
+It will now be easy to set the trap. Draw the hoop back to the
+opposite end, tucking the netting into the groove; lower the spindle
+over it, resting it between the two little plugs, and securing
+its end beneath the catch on the platform. If the bait,
+[Page 83]
+consisting of bread-crumbs, berries, insects, or the like, be now
+sprinkled on the platform, the trap is ready for its feathered
+victim. It will easily be seen that the slightest weight on _either_
+side of this poised platform will throw the catch from the end of
+the spindle, and release the hoop and the platform in an instant
+is covered by the net, capturing whatever unlucky little bird may
+have chanced to jump upon it. This is a very pretty little trap,
+and will well repay the trouble of making it.
+
+
+A SIMPLER NET TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Much ingenuity has been displayed in the construction of bird traps
+of various kinds, but often the ingenuity has been misplaced, and
+the result has been so complicated as to mar its usefulness for
+practical purposes. The examples of net traps presented in this
+volume are so simple that the merest tyro can readily understand
+them. What can be more so than the present example, and yet it
+is as sure in its effect, and _surer_ than those other varieties
+of more complicated construction. One necessary element in a trap
+of any kind is, that the bearings are slight and that they spring
+easily. To obtain this requisite it is necessary to overcome friction
+as much as possible, using only a small number of pieces, and having
+as few joints and hinges only as are absolutely necessary. The present
+variety possesses advantages on this account. It is constructed
+somewhat on the principle of the ordinary steel trap, and also
+resembles in other respects the one we have just described, although
+much simpler. We give only a section drawing, as this will be
+sufficient. The long side of a flat board of about eight by sixteen
+inches is shown at (_a_); (_b_) indicates the loops of a bent wire,
+to which the netting is attached, as in the trap just described,
+[Page 84]
+the loops being fastened to the board as in the other variety;
+(_g_) consists of a small bit of wood an inch or so in length and
+half an inch in width. It should be tacked on to the middle of
+the one end of the board and project about a half inch above the
+surface. To the top of this the spindle (_c_) should be attached
+by a leather or staple hinge. The spindle should be of light pine,
+five inches in length and a quarter of an inch square, bevelled;
+on the under side of one end (_d_) is the catch or bait piece,
+and should be whittled out of a shingle or pine stick of the shape
+shown, the width being about a half an inch or less. One side should
+be supplied with a slight notch for the reception of the spindle,
+and the other should project out two or three inches, being covered
+on the top with a little platform of pasteboard, tin, or thin wood
+either glued or tacked in place. To attach this piece to the main
+board, two small wire staples may be used, one being inserted into
+the bottom end of the piece and the other being hooked through
+it, and afterward tacked to the bottom of the trap, thus forming
+a loop hinge. Another method is to make a hole through the lower
+tip of the bait piece by the aid of a red-hot wire, as seen at
+(_d_), afterwards inserting a pin and overlapping its ends with
+two staples driven into the bottom board, as shown at (_e_). In
+our last mentioned net trap the spring power consisted of rubber
+elastic, and the same may be used in this case, if desired, but by
+way of variety we here introduce another form of spring which may
+be successfully employed in the construction of traps of various
+kinds. It is shown at (_o_) and consists merely of a piece of tempered
+hoop iron, so bent as to act with an upward pressure. It should be
+about three inches long by half an inch wide. About three-quarters
+of an inch should be allowed for the two screws by which it is to
+be attached to the board. The rest should be bent upward and thus
+tempered by first heating almost to redness, and then cooling in
+cold water.
+
+One of these springs should be fastened to the board on each side,
+directly under the wire and quite near the hinge, in the position
+shown in the main drawing. Now draw back the net, lower the spindle
+and catch its extremity in the notch of the bait piece, and the trap
+is set as in our illustration. Sprinkle the bait on the platform,
+and lay the machine on the ground where birds are known to frequent;
+and it is only a matter of a few hours or perhaps minutes, before it
+will prove its efficacy. In order to prevent the bird from raising
+the wire and thereby escaping, it is well to fasten a little tin
+[Page 85]
+catch (_f_) at the end of the board. This will spring over the wire
+and hold it in its place.
+
+
+THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.
+
+The following is another novelty in the way of a bird-trap, somewhat
+similar to the one we have just described, in its manner of working.
+
+Procure two pieces of board about a foot square. Nail one to the
+edge of the other, as represented in our engraving. A stout wire
+is the next requisite. It should be about thirty inches long, and
+bent either into a curve or into two corners, making three equal
+sides. Each end of the wire should then be bent into a very small
+loop for the hinge. On to this wire the netting should then be
+secured as in the two previous examples, after which the ends of
+the wire may be tied with string or hinged on wire staples into
+the angle of the two boards, as seen in our illustration. Allow
+the wire now to lie flat on the bottom board, and then proceed
+to tack the netting around the edges of the upright board. Two
+elastics should next be fastened to the wire on each side, securing
+their loose ends to the bottom of the trap. They should be tightly
+drawn so as to bring the wire down with a snap. The spindle of
+this trap should be about eight or nine inches long, square and
+slender,--the lower end being flattened, and the upper end secured
+to the top edge of the upright board by a hinge of leather or string.
+An excellent hinge may be made with a piece of leather an inch
+and a half long, by half an inch in width, one half of the length
+being tied around the end of the spindle, and the other tacked
+on to the upper edge of the board.
+
+The platform is given by itself at (_a_) in the same picture. It
+may be made of very thin wood--cigar box wood, for instance, or
+even thick pasteboard. It consists of three pieces. The piece which
+is hinged into the angle of the boards should be about three inches
+in length; the platform piece ought not to be more than four inches
+square, and the upright piece only long enough to reach the tip of
+the spindle when the platform is raised, as shown in our engraving.
+The hinge piece should be cut to an edge on that end where the
+leather is fastened, the opposite end being bevelled off in order
+that the platform may rest and be tacked or glued firmly upon it.
+The diagram (_a_) will make this all very clear.
+
+When the platform is all made and fastened in its place, the
+[Page 86]
+trap may be set. Draw the hoop back as far as possible, and lower
+the spindle over its edge, catching it behind the upright stick on
+the platform. If the trap is properly constructed, the pressure
+of the spindle on the platform will suffice to hold it up as seen
+in our illustration. The upright stick on the back of the platform
+should never be more than an inch and a half from the back of the
+trap. If need be, a slight notch may be made in the end of the
+spindle and a small tack driven into the back of the upright stick
+to correspond to it. By thus fitting the notch under the head of the
+tack, it will be sure to hold the platform in the right position.
+But it should be carefully tested before setting, to see that it
+springs easily.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When thus set sprinkle the bait on the platform, scattering a little
+also on the bottom of the trap and on the ground directly around it.
+The little birds will soon spy the tempting morsels, and alighting
+on the trap are misled, and the slightest peck or pressure on the
+platform where the bait is most bounteously spread brings down the
+wire and net with a _snap_, and the little creature is secured
+without harm.
+
+[Illustration: Method 2.]
+
+Our next illustration shows another method of constructing the platform.
+It should be about three or four inches square,
+[Page 87]
+and on the middle of one of its edges the upright catch piece should
+be fastened. This piece, as will be seen in our engraving, should
+be cut spreading at the bottom so as to admit of being secured to
+the platform by two brads, the tip being cut to a point. The total
+length of this piece should not be over two and a half inches. When
+tacked in place, a third brad should be inserted between the other
+two and exactly in the centre of the side of the platform. This
+latter brad is to act as the pivot, or hinge, and should project
+about a quarter of an inch, as seen at (_a_). On the opposite edge
+of the platform another larger brad should be driven, having its
+end filed to a blunt point, as in (_b_). If the filing would be
+too tedious, a plug of hard wood of the required shape would answer
+every purpose. The upright props which support the platform should
+be cut of thin wood. Let one be an inch and a half long and half
+an inch wide, the other being an inch in length. Each should have
+one end whittled to a point, which will admit of its being inserted
+in a gimlet hole in the bottom of the trap. These gimlet holes
+should be made at least half an inch in depth. Make the first at
+about an inch or so from the back of the trap. Into this insert
+the shorter pieces, broadside front. Lay the pivot brad of the
+platform on the top of this piece and insert over it a small wire
+staple, as seen at (_a_). Elevate the platform evenly and determine
+the spot for the other gimlet hole, which should be directly beneath
+the point of the filed brad. Be sure that it is in the middle of
+the board, so that the platform may set squarely, and be perfectly
+parallel with the sides. Insert the remaining prop in its place,
+and the platform is complete. The overhanging spindle now requires a
+little attention. This should be whittled off on each side, bringing
+it to a point at the tip. On each side of the spindle a long plug
+should then be driven into the back piece, as our illustration
+shows. These should be far enough apart to allow the spindle to
+pass easily between them. The _setting_ of the trap is plainly shown
+[Page 88]
+in our engraving. The spindle being lowered between the plugs is caught
+finely on the tip of the catch-piece. The blunt point at the opposite
+end of the platform should have a slight hollow made for it in the
+prop against which it presses. If the platform be now strewn with
+bait, the little machine is ready. It is certainly very simple and
+will be found very effective.
+
+
+THE BOX OWL TRAP.
+
+The use of a box trap for the capture of an owl is certainly an
+odd idea, but we nevertheless illustrate a contrivance which has
+been successfully used for that purpose.
+
+The box in this case should be of the proportions shown in our
+engraving, and well ventilated with holes, as indicated. (This
+ventilation is, by-the-way, a good feature to introduce in _all_
+traps.) Having made or selected a suitable box--say, fourteen or
+more inches wide, provided with a cover, working on a hinge--proceed
+to fasten on the outside of the lid a loop of stiff wire, bent in
+the shape shown at (_e_). This may be fastened to the cover by
+means of small staples, or even tacks, and should project over
+the edge about two inches. When this is done, the lid should be
+raised to the angle shown in our illustration, and the spot where
+the end of the wire loop touches the back of the box should be
+marked and a slit cut through the wood at this place, large enough
+for the angle of the loop to pass through. Two elastics should
+now be fastened to the inside of the box, being secured to the
+bottom at the side, and the other to the edge of the cover, as
+seen in the illustration. They should be sufficiently strong to
+draw down the cover quickly. The perch, or spindle, should consist
+of a light stick of wood, as shown at (_b_,) one end provided with
+a slight notch, and the other fastened to the inside of the front
+of the box by a string or leather hinge, (_c_,) keeping the notch on
+the _upper_ side of the stick. It will be now seen that by opening
+the cover, until the loop enters through the groove, and by then
+hooking the notch in the spindle _under_ the loop as seen at (_a_)
+the trap will be set, and if properly done it will be found that a
+very slight weight on the spindle will set it free from the loop
+and let the cover down with swiftness.
+
+To secure the cover in place a small tin catch should now be applied
+to the front edge of the box, as shown in the illustration. A piece
+of tin two inches in length by a half an inch in breadth will answer
+for this purpose. One end should be bent
+[Page 89]
+down half an inch at a pretty sharp angle, and the other attached
+by two tacks, to the edge of the box, in the position shown in
+the cut. This precaution will effectually prevent the escape of
+whatever bird, large or small, the trap may chance to secure. It
+is a necessary feature of the trap, as without it the elastics
+might be torn asunder and the lid thereby easily raised.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This trap may be baited in a variety of ways. As it is particularly
+designed for a _bird_ trap, it is well to sprinkle the bottom of
+the box with berries, bird-seed, small insects, such as crickets,
+grasshoppers, etc. These latter are very apt to jump out, and it
+may be well to fasten one or two of them to the bottom with a pin
+through the body, just behind the head.
+
+There are many kinds of birds which live almost exclusively on
+insects; and as this bait is of rather a lively kind, there is
+scarcely any other method to retain them in their position. A bird
+on approaching this trap will almost irresistibly alight on the
+perch, and if not at _first_, it is generally sure to do so before
+long. If desired, a pasteboard platform may be fastened on the
+[Page 90]
+top of the perch with small tacks, and the bait scattered upon
+it. This will act in the same manner, and might, perhaps, be a
+trifle more certain. We will leave it to our readers to experiment
+upon.
+
+We have given this variety the name of "owl-trap," because it may
+be used with success in this direction. When set for this purpose,
+it should be baited with a live mouse, small rat or bird, either
+fastened to the bottom of the trap, if a bird, or set in with the
+trap inclosing it, if a mouse. A small bird is the preferable bait,
+as it may be easily fastened to the bottom of the box by a string,
+and as a general thing is more sure to attract the attention of
+the owl by its chirping.
+
+The trap should be set in an open, conspicuous spot, in the neighborhood
+where the owls in the night are heard to "hoot." The chances are
+that the box will contain an owl on the following morning.
+
+This bird is a very interesting and beautiful creature, and if our
+young reader could only catch one, and find rats and mice enough
+to keep it well fed, he would not only greatly diminish the number
+of rats in his neighborhood, but he would realize a great deal
+of enjoyment in watching and studying the habits of the bird.
+
+Should it be difficult to supply the above mentioned food, raw
+meat will answer equally well. The bird should either be kept in
+a cage or inclosure and in the latter case, its wings will require
+to be clipped.
+
+
+THE BOX BIRD TRAP.
+
+Here we have another invention somewhat resembling the foregoing.
+Our engraving represents the arrangement of the parts as the trap
+appears when set.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The box may be of almost any shape. A large sized cigar box has
+been used with excellent success, and for small birds is just the
+thing. The cover of the box in any case should work on a hinge of
+some sort. The trap is easily made. The first thing to be done
+is to cut an upright slot, about two inches in length, through
+the centre of the backboard, commencing at the upper edge. To the
+inside centre edge of the cover a small square strap, about four
+inches in length, should then be secured. It should be so adjusted
+as that one-half shall project toward the inside of the box, as
+seen in the illustration, and at the same time pass easily through
+[Page 91]
+the slot beneath where the cover is closed. The lid should now be
+supplied with elastics as described in the foregoing. Next in order
+comes the bait stick. Its shape is clearly shown in our illustration,
+and it may be either cut in one piece or consist of two parts joined
+together at the angle. To the long arm the bait should be attached
+and the upright portion should be just long enough to suspend the
+cover in a position on a line with the top of the box. The trap may
+now be set, as seen in our illustration, and should be supplied with
+the necessary tin catch, described in the foregoing.
+
+
+THE PENDENT BOX TRAP.
+
+This invention is original with the author of this work, and when
+properly made and set will prove an excellent device for the capture
+of small birds.
+
+The general appearance of the trap, as set, is clearly shown in
+our illustration. A thin wooden box is the first requisite, it
+should be about a foot square and six inches in depth, and supplied
+with a close fitting cover, working on hinges. The sides should then
+be perforated with a few auger holes for purposes of ventilation.
+
+Two elastics are next in order, and they should be attached to the
+cover and box, one on each side, as shown at (_a_.) They should be
+drawn to a strong tension, so as to hold the cover firmly against
+the box.
+
+The mechanism of the trap centres in the bait stick which differs
+in construction from any other described in this book.
+
+It should be made about the size of a lead pencil, and eleven
+[Page 92]
+inches or so in length, depending of course upon the size of the
+box.
+
+It should then be divided in two pieces by a perfectly flat cut,
+the longer part being six inches in length. This piece should be
+attached to the back board of the box by a small string and a tack,
+as shown at (_c_), its end being bluntly pointed. Its attachment
+should be about five inches above the bottom board, and in the
+exact centre of the width of the back.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Near the flat end of the other piece the bait consisting of a berry
+or other fruit, should be secured, and the further extremity of
+the stick should then be rounded to a blunt point. The trap is now
+easily set. Raise the lid and lift the long stick to the position
+given in the illustration. Adjust the flat end of the bait stick
+against that of the former, and allow the pressure of the lid to
+bear against the blunt point of the short stick at (_d_), as shown
+in the illustration, a straight dent being made in the cover to
+receive it, as also in the back of the box for the other piece.
+If properly constructed, this pressure will be sufficient to hold
+the sticks end to end, as our engraving represents, and the trap is
+[Page 93]
+thus set. The slightest weight on the false perch thus made will
+throw the parts asunder, and the cover closes with a snap.
+
+The greatest difficulties in constructing the trap will be found
+in the bearings of the bait sticks (_b_), the ends of which must
+be perfectly flat and join snugly, in order to hold themselves
+together. The box may now be suspended in a tree by the aid of a
+string at the top. The first bird that makes bold enough to alight
+on the perch is a sure captive, and is secured without harm. If
+desired, the elastic may be attached to the inside of the cover,
+extending to the back of the box, as seen in the initial at the head
+of this chapter. If the elastic in any event shows tendencies toward
+relaxing, the tin catch described on page 88 should be adjusted
+to the lower edge of the box to insure capture.
+
+
+THE HAWK TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our illustration represents a hawk in a sad plight. The memory of
+a recent feast has attracted it to the scene of many of
+[Page 94]
+its depredations: but the ingenious farmer has at last outwitted
+his feathered foe and brought its sanguinary exploits to a timely
+end. This trap is a "Yankee" invention and has been used with great
+success in many instances where the hawk has become a scourge to the
+poultry yard. The contrivance is clearly shown in an illustration,
+consisting merely of a piece of plank two feet square, set with
+stiff perpendicular pointed wires.
+
+This affair was set on the ground in a conspicuous place, the board
+covered with grass, and the nice fat Poland hen which was tied to
+the centre proved a morsel too tempting for the hawk to resist.
+Hence the "fell swoop" and the fatal consequences depicted in our
+illustration. The owl has also been successfully captured by the
+same device.
+
+
+THE WILD DUCK NET.
+
+Following will be found two examples of traps in very common use
+for the capture of wild ducks, and in the region of Chesapeake
+bay, immense numbers of the game are annually taken by their aid.
+The first is the well known net trap, so extensively used in nearly
+all countries, both for the capture of various kinds of fish as
+well as winged game. Our illustration gives a very clear idea of
+the construction of the net, and an elaborate description is almost
+superfluous. It consists of a graduated series of hoops covered
+by a net work. From each a converging net extends backward ending
+in a smaller hoop which is held in position by cords extending
+[Page 95]
+therefrom to the next larger hoop. The depth of these converging
+nets should extend backward about three or four feet from the large
+hoop; and the distance between these latter should be about five
+feet. The length of the net should be about twenty feet, terminating
+in a "pound" or netted enclosure, as seen in the illustration. The
+trap may be set on shore or in the water as seen. "Decoy" birds are
+generally used, being enclosed in the pound.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When set on land the bait consisting of corn or other grain should
+be spread about the entrance and through the length of the net.
+
+It is remarkable that a duck which so easily finds its way within
+the netted enclosure, should be powerless to make its escape, but
+such seems to be the fact, and even a single hoop with its reflex
+net, has been known to secure a number of the game.
+
+
+THE HOOK TRAP
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our second example is one which we are almost tempted to exclude
+on account of its cruelty, but as our volume is especially devoted
+to traps of all kinds and as this is a variety in very common use,
+we feel bound to give it a passing notice. Our illustration fully
+conveys its painful mode of capture, and a beach at low water is
+generally the scene of the slaughter. A long stout cord is first
+stretched across the sand and secured
+[Page 96]
+to a peg at each end. To this shorter lines are attached at intervals,
+each one being supplied with a fish hook baited with a piece of
+the tender rootstock of a certain water reed, of which the ducks
+are very fond. The main cord and lines are then imbedded in the
+sand, the various baits only appearing on the surface, and the
+success of the device is equal to its cruelty.
+
+
+THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.
+
+Of all oddities of the trap kind, there is, perhaps, no one more
+novel and comical than the "Fool's Cap" crow-trap, which forms
+the subject of our present illustration. Crows are by no means
+easy of capture in any form of trap, and they are generally as
+coy and as shrewd in their approach to a trap as they are bold in
+their familiarity and disrespect for the sombre scarecrows in the
+com field. But this simple device will often mislead the smartest
+and shrewdest crow, and make a perfect _fool_ of him, for it is
+hard to imagine a more ridiculous sight than is furnished by the
+strange antics and evolutions of a crow thus embarrassed with his
+head imbedded in a cap which he finds impossible to remove, and
+which he in vain endeavors to shake off by all sorts of gymnastic
+performance. The secret of the little contrivance is easily told.
+The cap consists of a little cone of stiff paper, about three or
+four inches in diameter at the opening. This is imbedded in the
+ground, up to its edge, and a few grains of corn are dropped into
+it. The inside edge of the opening is then smeared with _bird-lime_,
+[Page 97]
+a substance of which we shall speak hereafter.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The crow, on endeavoring to reach the corn, sinks his bill so deep
+in the cone as to bring the gummy substance in contact with the
+feathers of his head and neck, to which it adheres in spite of
+all possible efforts on the part of the bird to throw it off.
+
+The cones may be made of a brownish-colored paper if they are to
+be placed in the earth, but of white paper when inserted in the
+snow. It is an excellent plan to insert a few of these cones in
+the fresh corn hills at planting season, as the crows are always on
+the watch at this time, and will be sure to partake of the tempting
+morsels, not dreaming of the result. The writer has often heard
+of this ingenious device, and has read of its being successfully
+employed in many instances, but he has never yet had an opportunity
+of testing it himself. He will leave it for his readers to experiment
+upon for themselves.
+
+
+BIRD LIME.
+
+This substance so called to which we have above alluded, and which
+is sold in our bird marts under that name, is a viscid, sticky
+preparation, closely resembling a very thick and gummy varnish.
+It is astonishingly "sticky," and the slightest quantity between
+the fingers will hold them together with remarkable tenacity. What
+its effect must be on the feathers of a bird can easily be imagined.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This preparation is put up in boxes of different sizes, and may
+be had from any of the taxidermists or bird-fanciers in any of
+[Page 98]
+our large towns or cities. Should a _home made_ article be required,
+an excellent substitute may be prepared from the inner bark of the
+"slippery elm." This should be gathered in the spring or early
+summer, cut into very small pieces or scraped into threads, and
+boiled in water sufficient to cover them until the pieces are soft
+and easily mashed. By this time the water will be pretty much boiled
+down, and the whole mass should then be poured into a mortar and
+beaten up, adding at the same time a few grains of wheat. When
+done, the paste thus made may be put into an earthen vessel and
+kept. When required to be used, it should be melted or softened
+over the fire, adding goose grease or linseed oil, instead of water.
+When of the proper consistency it may be spread upon sticks or
+twigs prepared for it, and which should afterwards be placed in
+the locality selected for the capture of the birds.
+
+An excellent bird-lime may be made also from plain linseed-oil,
+by boiling it down until it becomes thick and gummy. Thick varnish
+either plain or mixed with oil, but always free from alcohol, also
+answers the purpose very well. The limed twigs may be either set
+in trees or placed on poles and stuck in the ground.
+
+If any of our readers chance to become possessed of an owl, they
+may look forward to grand success with their limed twigs. It is a
+well known fact in natural history that the _owl_ is the universal
+enemy of nearly all our smaller birds. And when, as often happens,
+a swarm of various birds are seen flying frantically from limb to
+limb, seeming to centre on a particular tree, and filling the air
+with their loud chirping, it may be safely concluded that some sleepy
+owl has been surprised in his day-dozing, and is being severely
+pecked and punished for his nightly depredations.
+
+Profiting from this fact, the bird catcher often utilizes the owl
+with great success. Fastening the bird in the crotch of some tree,
+he adjusts the limed twigs on an sides, even covering the neighboring
+branches with the gummy substance. No sooner is the owl spied by
+_one_ bird than the cry is set up, and a _score_ of foes are soon
+at hand, ready for battle. One by one they alight on the beguiling
+twigs, and one by one find themselves held fast. The more they flutter
+the more powerless they become, and the more securely are they held.
+In this way many valuable and rare birds are often captured.
+
+
+[Page 99]
+THE HUMMING BIRD TRAP.
+
+One of the most ingenious uses to which bird lime is said to have
+been applied with success, is in the capture of humming-birds.
+The lime in this instance is made simply by chewing a few grains
+of wheat in the mouth until a gum is formed. It is said that by
+spreading this on the inside opening of the long white lily or
+trumpet-creeper blossom, the capture of a humming-bird is almost
+certain, and he will never be able to leave the flower after once
+fairly having entered the opening. There can be no doubt but that
+this is perfectly practicable, and we recommend it to our readers.
+
+The object in making the bird-lime from wheat consists in the fact
+that this is more easily removed from the feathers than the other
+kinds.
+
+We would not wish our readers to infer from this that a humming-bird
+might be captured or kept alive, for of all birds, they are the most
+fragile and delicate, and would die of _fright_, if from nothing
+else. They are chiefly used for ornamental purposes, and may be
+caught in a variety of ways. A few silk nooses hung about the flowers
+where the birds are seen to frequent, will sometimes succeed in
+ensnaring their tiny forms.
+
+The blow-gun is often used with good success, and the concussion
+from a gun loaded simply with powder, and aimed in the direction
+of the bird, will often stun it so that it will fall to the ground.
+If a strong stream of water be forced upon the little creature, as
+it is fluttering from flower to flower, the result is the same,
+as the feathers become so wet that it cannot fly.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 101]
+[Illustration: MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS]
+
+[Page 103]
+BOOK IV.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.
+
+
+THE COMMON BOX TRAP.
+
+[Illustration: T]he following chapter includes a variety of traps
+which have not been covered by any of the previous titles. Several
+novelties are contained in the list, and also a number of well
+known inventions.
+
+There is probably no more familiar example of the trap kind than
+that of the common wooden box-trap, better known, perhaps, by our
+country boys as the rabbit-trap. A glance at our illustration, will
+readily bring it to mind, and easily explain its working to those
+not particularly acquainted with it. These traps may be made of any
+size, but, being usually employed in catching rabbits, require to
+be made quite large. They should be made of hard seasoned wood--oak
+or chestnut is the best--and of slabs about an inch in thickness.
+The pieces may be of the following dimensions: let the bottom board
+be 20+7 in.; side board, 20+9 in.; lid board 19+7 in., and the
+end piece of lid 7 in. square.
+
+The tall end piece should be about 16 inches high by 7 broad. Let
+this be sharpened on the upper end, as seen in the engraving, and
+furnished with a slight groove on the summit, for the reception
+of the cord. Now to put the pieces together.
+
+Nail the two sides to the edge of the bottom board, and fit in
+between them the high end piece, securing that also, with nails
+through the bottom and side boards. Next nail the lid board on
+to the small, square end piece, and fit the lid thus made neatly
+into its place.
+
+To make the hinge for the lid, two small holes should be bored
+through the sides of the trap, about four inches from the tall end,
+and half an inch from the upper edge of each board. Let
+[Page 104]
+small nails now be driven through these holes into the edge of the
+lid, and it will be found to work freely upon them.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The principal part of the trap is now made, but what remains to be
+done is of great importance. The "spindle" is a necessary feature
+in nearly all traps, and the box-trap is useless without it. In
+this case it should consist merely of a round stick of about the
+thickness of a lead pencil, and we will say, 7 or 8 in. in length.
+One end should be pointed and the other should have a small notch
+cut in it, as seen in the separate drawing of the stick. The spindle
+being ready, we must have some place to put it. Another hole should
+be bored through the middle of the high end piece, and about 4 in.
+from the bottom. This hole should be large enough to allow the
+spindle to pass easily through it. If our directions have been
+carefully followed, the result will now show a complete, closefitting
+trap.
+
+In setting the trap there are two methods commonly employed, as
+shown at _a_ and _b_. The string, in either case, must be fastened
+to the end of the lid.
+
+In the first instance (_a_) the lid is raised and made fast by the
+brace, holding itself beneath the tip of the projecting spindle,
+and a nail or plug driven into the wood by the side of the hole.
+[Page 105]
+Of course, when the spindle is drawn or moved from the inside the
+brace will be let loose and the lid will drop.
+
+In the other method (_b_) the spindle is longer, and projects several
+inches on the outside of the hole. The brace is also longer, and
+catches itself in the notch on the end of the spindle, and another
+slight notch in the board, a few inches above the hole.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When the bait is touched from the inside, the brace easily flies
+out and the lid falls, securing its victim. Either way is sure
+to succeed, but if there is any preference it is for the former
+(_a_). It is a wise plan to have a few holes through the trap in
+different places, to allow for ventilation, and it may be found
+necessary to line the cracks with tin, as sometimes the enclosed
+creature might otherwise gnaw through and make its escape. If there
+is danger of the lid not closing tightly when sprung, a stone may
+be fastened upon it to insure that result.
+
+This trap is usually set for rabbits, and these dimensions are
+especially calculated with that idea. Rabbits abound in all our
+woods and thickets, and may be attracted by various baits. An apple
+is most generally used. The box-trap may be made of smaller dimensions,
+and set in trees for squirrels with very good success.
+
+There is still another well known form of this trap represented
+in the tail piece at the end of this section. The box is first
+constructed of the shape already given, only having the lid piece
+[Page 106]
+nailed firmly in the top of the box. The tall end piece is also
+done away with. The whole thing thus representing a simple oblong
+box with one end open. Two slender cleats should be nailed on each
+side of this opening, on the interior of the box, to form a groove
+into which a square end board may easily slide up and down, the
+top board being slightly sawn away to receive it. An upright stick
+should then be erected on the top centre of the box, in the tip of
+which a straight stick should be pivoted, working easily therein,
+like the arms of a balance. To one end of this balance, the end
+board should be adjusted by two screw eyes, and to the other the
+string with spindle attached. By now lowering the spindle to its
+place, the further end of the balance will be raised and with it
+the end board, and on the release of the spindle the board will
+fall. This plan is quite commonly adopted but we rather prefer
+the former. But as each has its advantages we present them both.
+
+
+ANOTHER BOX TRAP.
+
+This works after the manner of the ordinary wire rat-trap; our
+illustration explains itself.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The box should be of the shape there shown, with one of its end
+pieces arranged on hinges so as to fall freely. An elastic should
+be fastened from the inside of this end to the inner surface of
+the top of the box, to insure its closing. If desired an elastic
+may be adjusted at the side as shown in the cut and a catch piece
+of stout tin should be attached to the bottom of the trap to secure
+the lid when it falls. A small hole should then be bored in the
+top, near the further end of the trap, and
+[Page 107]
+the spindle, having a notch on its upper end, passed through the
+hole thus made. The top of the spindle is shown at (_a_). It should
+be held in its place by a small plug or pin through it, below the
+surface of the box. A slender stick, long enough to reach and catch
+beneath the notch in the spindle should now be fastened to the lid
+and the trap is complete. It may be baited with cheese, bread,
+and the like, and if set for squirrels, an apple answers every
+purpose.
+
+When constructed on a larger and heavier scale it may be used for
+the capture of rabbits and animals of a similar size, but for this
+purpose the previous variety is preferable.
+
+
+THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+One of the most useful as well as the most ancient inventions in
+the way of traps is the common _Figure Four Trap_, which forms
+the subject of our next illustration. It is a very ingenious
+contrivance, and the mechanism, consists merely of three sticks.
+It possesses great advantages in the fact that it may be used in
+a variety of ways, and a number of the machines may be carried by
+the young trapper with very little inconvenience. Our illustration
+shows the trap already set, only awaiting for a slight touch at
+the bait to bring the heavy stone to the ground. A box may be
+substituted for the stone, and the animal may thus be
+[Page 108]
+captured alive. The three sticks are represented separate at _a_.
+_b_. and _c_. Of course, there is no regular size for them, as this
+would greatly depend upon the purpose for which they are designed
+to be used. If for rabbits, the following proportions will answer
+very well. The sticks should all be square, and about half an inch
+in thickness. The bait-stick, (_a_) should be about nine or ten
+inches in length, one end being pointed and the other furnished
+with a notch, as indicated. The upright stick, (_b_) should be
+a little shorter, one end being whittled to a rather sharp edge.
+At about three or four inches from the other end, and on the side
+next to that whittled, a square notch should be cut. This should
+be about a third of an inch in depth and half an inch in width,
+being so cut as exactly to receive the bait-stick without holding
+it fast. The remaining stick (_c_) should have a length of about
+seven or eight inches, one end being whittled, as in the last,
+to an edge, and the other end furnished with a notch on the same
+side of the stick.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When these are finished, the trap may be set in the following manner:
+Place the upright stick, (_b_) with its pointed end uppermost.
+Rest the notch of the slanting stick, (_c_) on the summit of the
+upright stick, placing the stone upon its end, and holding the
+stick in position with the hand. By now hooking the notch in the
+bait-stick on the sharpened edge of the slanting stick and fitting
+it into the square notch in the upright, it may easily be made to
+catch and hold itself in position. The bait should always project
+beneath the stone. In case a box is used instead of a stone, the
+trap may be set either inside of it or beneath its edge. Where the
+ground is very soft, it would be well to rest the upright stick
+on a chip or small flat stone, as otherwise it is apt to sink into
+the earth by degrees and spring by itself.
+
+When properly made, it is a very sure and sensitive trap, and the
+bait, generally an apple, or "nub" of corn is seldom more than
+touched when the stone falls.
+
+
+[Page 109]
+THE "DOUBLE ENDER."
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is what we used to call it in New England and it was a great
+favorite among the boys who were fond of rabbit catching. It was
+constructed of four boards two feet in length by nine inches in
+breath secured with nails at their edges, so as to form a long
+square box. Each end was supplied with a heavy lid working on two
+hinges. To each of these lids a light strip of wood was fastened,
+the length of each being sufficient to reach nearly to the middle
+of the top of the box, as seen in the illustration. At this point
+a small auger hole was then made downward through the board. A
+couple of inches of string was next tied to the tip of each stick
+and supplied with a large knot at the end. The trap was then set on
+the simple principle of which there are so many examples throughout
+the pages of this work. The knots were lowered through the auger
+hole and the insertion of the bait stick inside the box held them
+in place. The edge of the bottom board on each end of the trap
+should be supplied with a tin catch such as is described on page
+88 in order to hold the lid in place after it has fallen. No matter
+from which end the bait is approached it is no sooner touched than
+both ends fall and "_bunny_" is prisoner. Like many other of our
+four-footed game, the rabbit manifests a peculiar liking for salt
+and may be regularly attracted to a given spot by its aid. A salted
+cotton string is sometimes extended several yards from the trap
+for the purpose of leading them to it, but this seems a needless
+precaution, as the rabbit is seldom behind hand in discerning a
+tempting bait when it is within his reach.
+
+
+[Page 110]
+THE SELF SETTING TRAP.
+
+One of the oldest known principles ever embodied in the form of a
+trap is that which forms the subject of the accompanying illustration.
+It is very simple in construction, sure in its action; and as its
+name implies, resets itself after each intruder has been captured.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It is well adapted for Rabbits and Coons and when made on a small
+scale, may be successfully employed in taking rats and mice. It
+is also extensively used in the capture of the Mink and Muskrat,
+being set beneath the water, near the haunts of the animals and
+weighted by a large stone. Of course the size of the box will be
+governed by the dimensions of the game for which it is to be set.
+Its general proportions should resemble those of the illustration,
+both ends being open. A small gate, consisting of a square piece
+of wood supplied with a few stiff wires is then pivoted inside
+each opening, so as to work freely and fall easily when raised.
+The bait is fastened inside at the centre of the box. The animal,
+in quest of the bait, finds an easy entrance, as the wires lift
+at a slight pressure, but the exit after the gate has closed is
+so difficult that escape is almost beyond the question.
+
+The wires should be so stiff as to preclude the possibility of them
+being bent by struggles of the imprisoned creature in his
+[Page 111]
+efforts to escape, and to insure further strength it is advisable
+to connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of finer
+wire, twisted about each.
+
+The simultaneous capture of two rabbits in a trap of this kind is
+a common occurrence.
+
+
+THE DEAD-FALL.
+
+In strolling through the woods and on the banks of streams in the
+country, it is not an uncommon thing to stumble against a contrivance
+resembling in general appearance our next illustration. Throughout
+New England, the "dead-fall," as this is called, has always been
+a most popular favorite among trappers, young and old; and there
+is really no better rough and ready trap for large game. To entrap
+a fox by any device is no easy matter; but the writer remembers
+one case where Reynard was outwitted, and the heavy log of the
+"dead-fall" put a speedy end to his existence. The trap was set in
+a locality where the fox had made himself a nuisance by repeated
+nocturnal invasions among the poultry, and the bait was cleverly
+calculated to decoy him. A live duck was tied within the pen, and
+the morsel proved too tempting for him to resist. Thrusting his
+head beneath the suspended log, in order to reach his prey, he thus
+threw down the slender framework of support; and the log, falling
+across his neck, put him to death.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our illustration gives a very correct idea of the general construction
+of the "dead-fall," although differing slightly in its mode of
+setting from that usually employed.
+
+[Page 112]
+A pen of rough sticks is first constructed, having an open front.
+A log about seven or eight feet in length, and five or six inches
+in diameter, should then be procured. An ordinary fence rail will
+answer the purpose very well, although the log is preferable. Its
+large end should be laid across the front of the pen, and two stout
+sticks driven into the ground outside of it, leaving room for it
+to rise and fall easily between them and the pen, a second shorter
+log being placed on the ground beneath it, as described for the
+bear-trap, page (17). A look at our illustration fully explains
+the _setting_ of the parts. A forked twig, about a foot in length,
+answers for the bait-stick. The lower end should be pointed, and
+the fork, with its bait, should incline toward the ground, when
+set. The upper end should be supplied with a notch, square side
+down, and directly above the branch which holds the bait. Another
+straight stick, about fourteen inches in length, should then be
+cut. Make it quite flat on each end. A small thin stone, chip of
+wood, or the like, is the only remaining article required. Now
+proceed to raise the log, as shown in the drawing, place one end
+of the straight stick beneath it, resting its tip on the flat top
+of the upright stick on the outside of the log. The baitstick should
+now be placed in position inside the inclosure, resting the pointed
+end on the chip, and securing the notch above, as seen in the
+illustration, beneath the tip of the flat stick. When this is done,
+the trap is set, but, there are a few little hints in regard to
+setting it finely,--that is, surely,--which will be necessary.
+It is very important to avoid bringing too much of the weight of
+the log on the flat stick, as this would of course bear heavily on
+the bait-stick, and render considerable force necessary to spring
+the trap. The leverage at the point where the log rests on the flat
+stick should be very slight, and the log should be so placed that
+the upright shall sustain nearly all the weight. By this method,
+very little pressure is brought to bear on the bait-stick, and a
+very slight twitch will throw it out of poise. The fork of the
+bait-stick should point to the side of the inclosure, as, in this
+case, when the bait is seized by the unlucky intruder, the very
+turning of the fork forces the notch from beneath the horizontal
+stick, and throws the parts asunder.
+
+If the trap is set for muskrats, minks, skunks, or animals of similar
+size, the weight of the log will generally be found sufficient to
+effect their death; but, if desired, a heavy stone
+[Page 113]
+may be rested against it, or the raised end weighted with other
+logs (see p. 18), to make sure. When set for a coon or fox, this
+precaution is necessary. To guard against the cunning which some
+animals possess, it is frequently necessary to cover the top of the
+pen with cross-sticks, as there are numerous cases on record where
+the intended victims have climbed over the side of the inclosure, and
+taken the bait from the inside, thus keeping clear of the suspended
+log, and springing the trap without harm to themselves. A few sticks
+or branches laid across the top of the inclosure will prevent any
+such capers; and the crafty animals will either have to take the
+bait at the risk of their lives, or leave it alone.
+
+For trapping the muskrat, the bait may consist of carrots, turnips,
+apples, and the like. For the mink, a bird's head, or the head
+of a fowl, is the customary bait; and the skunk may usually be
+taken with sweet apples, meats, or some portion of a dead fowl.
+
+In the case of the fox, which we have mentioned, the setting of the
+trap was somewhat varied; and in case our readers might desire to
+try a similar experiment, we will devote a few lines to a description
+of it. In this instance, the flat stick which supported the log was
+not more than eight inches in length; and instead of the bait-stick,
+a slight framework of slender branches was substituted. This frame or
+lattice-work was just large enough to fill the opening of the pen,
+and its upper end supported the flat stick. The duck was fastened
+to the back part of the pen, which was also closed over the top.
+The quacking of the fowl attracted the fox; and as he thrust his
+head through the lattice to reach his prey, the frame was thrown
+out of balance and Reynard paid the price of his greed and folly.
+
+There is another mode of adjusting the pieces of the dead-fall,
+commonly employed by professional trappers, whereby the trap is sprung
+by the foot of the animal in quest of the bait. This construction
+is shown correctly in the accompanying cut, which gives the front
+view, the pen being made as before. The stout crotch represented
+at (_a_) is rested on the summit of a strong peg, driven into the
+ground beneath the _outside edge_ of the suspended log; (_b_) is
+the treacherous stick which seals the doom of any animal that dares
+rest his foot upon it. This piece should be long enough to stretch
+across and overlap the guard-pegs at each side of the opening. To
+set the trap, rest the short crotch of (_a_) on the top of the
+peg, and lower the log upon it, keeping the leverage slight, as
+directed in our last example, letting much of the weight come on the
+[Page 114]
+top of the peg. The long arm of the crotch should be pressed inward
+from the front, and one end of the stick (_b_) should then be caught
+between its extreme tip, and the upright peg about ten inches above
+the ground. By now fastening the bait to a peg at the back part of
+the pen, the affair is in working order, and will be found perfectly
+reliable. The ground log (_d_) being rested in place as seen in
+the illustration. To make assurance doubly sure, it is well to cut
+a slight notch in the upright stick at (_c_) for the reception of
+the foot-piece (_b_). By this precaution the stick, when lowered,
+is bound to sink at the right end, thus ensuring success.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Figure-Four Trap, already described in another part of this
+book, is also well adapted to the dead-fall, and is much used.
+It should be made of stout pieces and erected at the opening of
+the pen, with the bait pointing toward the interior, the heavy
+log being poised on its summit.
+
+
+THE GARROTE.
+
+There is another variety of trap, somewhat resembling the dead-fall,
+but which seizes its prey in a little different manner.
+[Page 115]
+This trap, which we will call the _Garrote_, is truly represented
+by our illustration. A pen is first constructed, similar to that of
+the dead-fall. At the opening of the pen, two arches are fastened
+in the ground. They should be about an inch apart. A stout forked
+stick should then be cut, and firmly fixed in the earth at the
+side of the arches, and about three feet distant.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our main illustration gives the general appearance of the trap,
+but we also subjoin an additional cut, showing the "setting" or
+arrangement of the pieces. They are three in number, and consist:
+First, of a notched peg, which is driven into the ground at the back
+part of the pen, and a little to one side. Second, of a forked twig,
+the branch of which should point downward with the bait attached to
+its end. The third stick being the little hooked piece catching
+beneath the arches. The first of these is too simple to need
+description. The second should be about eight inches long; a notch
+should be cut in each end. The upper one being on the side from
+which the branch projects, and the other on the _opposite_ side
+of the stick, and at the other end, as is made plain by our
+illustration. The third stick may consist merely of a hooked crotch
+of some twig, as this is always to be found. Indeed, nearly _all_
+the parts of this trap may be found in any woods; and, with the
+exception of a jack-knife, bait, and string, the trapper need not
+trouble himself to carry any materials whatever. When the three
+pieces are thus made the trap only awaits the "Garrote." This should
+be made from a stiff pole, about six feet in length, having a heavy
+stone tied to its large end, and a loop of the shape of the letter
+U, or a slipping noose, made of stout cord or wire, fastened
+[Page 116]
+at the smaller end. To arrange the pieces for their destructive
+work, the pole should be bent down so that the loop shall fall
+between the arches. The "crotch stick" should then be hooked beneath
+the front of the arch, letting its arm point inward. After this
+the bait stick should be placed in its position, with the bait
+pointing downward, letting one end catch beneath the notch in the
+ground-peg, and the other over the tip of the crotch stick. This
+done, and the trap is set.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Like the dead-fall, the bait stick should point toward the side
+of the pen, as the turning involved in pulling it toward the front
+is positively _sure_ to slip it loose from its catches. Be careful
+to see that the loop is nicely arranged between the arches, and that
+the top of the pen is covered with a few twigs. If these directions
+are carefully followed, and if the young trapper has selected a
+good trapping ground, it will not be a matter of many days before
+he will discover the upper portion of the arches occupied by some
+rabbit, muskrat, or other unlucky creature, either standing on its
+hind legs, or lifted clean off the ground. Coons are frequently
+secured by this trap, although, as a general thing, they don't
+show much enthusiasm over traps of any kind, and seem to prefer
+to get their food elsewhere, rather than take it off the end of
+a bait stick.
+
+
+THE BOW TRAP.
+
+This most excellent and unique machine is an invention of the author's,
+and possesses great advantages, both on account of its durability
+and of the speedy death which it inflicts.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Procure a board about two feet in length, by five or six in width,
+and commencing at about nine inches from one end, cut a hole four
+or more inches square. This may readily be done with a narrow saw,
+by first boring a series of gimlet holes in which to insert it.
+There will now be nine inches of board on one side of the hole
+and eleven on the other. The shorter end constituting the top of
+the trap. On the upper edge of the hole
+[Page 117]
+a row of stout tin teeth should be firmly tacked, as seen in the
+illustration. On the other side of the cavity, and three inches
+from it a small auger hole (the size of a lead pencil), should
+be bored. After which it should be sand-papered and polished on
+the interior, by rubbing with some smooth, hard tool, inserted
+inside. A round plug of wood should next be prepared. Let it be
+about half an inch in length, being afterwards bevelled nearly
+the whole length of one side, as shown at (_b_), leaving a little
+over an eighth of an inch of the wood unwhittled. This little piece
+of wood is the most important part, of the trap, and should be made
+very carefully. The remaining end of the board below the auger
+hole should now be whittled off to a point, in order that it may be
+driven into the ground. The next requisites consist of two pieces
+of wood, which are seen at the sides of the square hole, in our
+illustration, and also seen at (_c_), side view. These
+[Page 118]
+pieces should be about six inches in length and about an inch square.
+A thin piece being cut off from one side of each, to the distance
+of four inches, and ending in a square notch. The other end should
+be rounded off, as is also there plainly indicated. Before adjusting
+the pieces in place, two tin catches should be fastened to the
+board, one on each side of the hole. This catch is shown at (_d_),
+and consists merely of a piece of tin, half an inch in width, and
+three-quarters of an inch in length, tacked to the wood, and having
+its end raised, as indicated. Its object is to hold the bow-string
+from being pulled down after once passing it. The upper edge of
+these catch-pieces should be about an inch and a half from the top
+of the hole, and, if desired, two or three of them may be arranged
+one above the other, so that wherever the string may stop against
+the neck of the inmate it will be sure to hold. The catches being
+in place, proceed to adjust the pieces of wood, letting the notch
+be on a line with the top of the pole, or a little above it. Each
+piece should be fastened with two screws to make secure.
+
+We will now give our attention to the bait stick. This should be
+about six inches in length, and square, as our illustration shows.
+There are two ways of attaching the bait-stick to the board, both
+shown at (_e_) and (_f_). The former consists merely of a screw
+eye inserted into the end of the stick, afterwards hinged to the
+board by a wire staple. The point for the hinge, in this case,
+should be about an inch below the auger hole. In the other method
+(_f_), the bait stick should be a half inch longer, and the spot
+for the hinge a quarter inch lower. At about a quarter of an inch
+from the square end of the bait stick a small hole should be made
+by the use of a hot wire. An oblong mortice should next be cut
+in the board, so as to receive this end of the stick easily. A
+stout bit of wire should then be inserted in the little hole in
+the stick, and laying this across the centre of the mortice, it
+should be thus secured by two staples, as the drawing shows. This
+forms a very neat and simple hinge. To determine the place for
+the catch, insert the flat end of the little plug fairly into the
+auger-hole above the hinge. Draw up the bait stick, and at the
+point where it comes in contact with the point of the plug, cut
+a square notch, as shown in (_b_). Everything now awaits the bow.
+This should be of hickory or other stout wood; it is well to have
+it seasoned, although a stout sapling will answer the purpose very
+well. It should be fastened to the top of the board by two heavy
+staples, or nails driven on each side of it. The string should
+be _heavy_ Indian twine. Our
+[Page 119]
+illustration shows the trap, as it appears when ready for business.
+The plug is inserted, as already described, with the bevelled face
+downward, and square end in the hole. Draw down the bow-string and
+pass it beneath the plug, at the same time catching the tip of
+the latter in the notch of the bait stick. If properly constructed
+the string will thus rest on the slight uncut portion of the under
+side of the peg, and the trap is thus set. If the bait is pushed
+when approached, the notch is forced off from the plug, and the
+string flies up with a _twang!_ securing the neck of its victim,
+and producing almost instant death. If the bait is _pulled_, the
+bait stick thus forces the plug into the hole in the board, and
+thus slides the cord on to the bevel, which immediately releases
+it, and the bow is sprung. So that no matter whether the bait is
+pushed or drawn towards the front, the trap is equally sure to
+spring.
+
+In setting this curious machine, it is only necessary to insert
+it into the ground, and surround the bait with a slight pen, in
+order that it may not be approached from behind. By now laying a
+stone or a pile of sticks in front of the affair, so that the bait
+may be more readily reached, the thing is ready. Care is required
+in setting to arrange the pieces delicately. The plug should be
+_very slightly_ inserted into the auger hole, and the notch in
+the bait stick should be as small as possible, and hold. All this
+is made clear in our illustration (_b_).
+
+By observing these little niceties the trap becomes very sure and
+sensitive.
+
+Bait with small apple, nub of corn, or the like.
+
+
+THE MOLE TRAP.
+
+If there is anyone subject upon which the ingenuity of the farmers
+has been taxed, it is on the invention of a mole trap which would
+effectually clear their premises of these blind burrowing vermin.
+Many patented devices of this character are on the market, and
+many odd pictured ideas on the subject have gone the rounds of
+the illustrated press, but they all sink into insignificance when
+tested beside the trap we here present. It has no equal among mole
+traps, and it can be made with the utmost ease and without cost.
+The principle on which it works is the same as the Fish Trap on
+page 120.
+
+Construct a hollow wooden tube about five inches in diameter, and
+eight inches in length. A section of a small tree, neatly excavated
+with a large auger is just the thing. Through
+[Page 120]
+the centre of one of the sides a small hole the size of a lead
+pencil should be bored, this being the upper side. About half an
+inch distant from each end a smaller hole should be made for the
+passage of the noose. The spring should consist either of a stout
+steel rod, whalebone or stiff sapling, a foot or more in length,
+inserted downward through holes in the side of the tube after the
+manner of the Fish Trap already alluded to. No bait is required.
+A simple stick the size of the central hole at one end, and an
+inch in width at the other being sufficient. The trap is set as
+described in the other instances, and as the introduction of the
+spindle-stick is sometimes attended with difficulty owing to its
+position inside the trap, the bottom of the latter is sometimes
+cut away for two or three inches to facilitate the operation. The
+trap is then to be imbedded within the burrow of the mole. Find
+a fresh tunnel and carefully remove the sod above it. Insert the
+trap and replace the turf. The first mole that starts on his rounds
+through that burrow is a sure prisoner, no matter from which side
+he may approach.
+
+Immense numbers of these troublesome vermin have been taken in a
+single season by a dozen such traps, and they possess great advantages
+over all other mole traps on account of their simplicity and unfailing
+success.
+
+
+A FISH TRAP.
+
+Our list of traps would be incomplete without a Fish Trap, and
+although we have mentioned some contrivances in this line under
+our article on "Fishing" we here present one which is both new
+and novel.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Its mode of construction is exactly similar to the Double Box Snare,
+page (57). A section of stove-pipe one foot in length should first
+be obtained. Through the iron at a point equidistant from the ends,
+a hole should be made with some smooth, sharp pointed instrument,
+the latter being forced _outward_ from the _inside_ of the pipe,
+thus causing the ragged edge of the hole to appear on the outside,
+as seen in our illustration. The diameter of the aperture
+[Page 121]
+should be about that of a lead pencil. Considering this as the _upper
+side_ of the pipe, proceed to pierce two more hole's _downward_
+through the side of the circumference, for the admission of a stout
+stick or steel rod. This is fully explained in our illustration. The
+further arrangement of bait stick and nooses is exactly identical
+with that described on page (57). It may be set for suckers, pickerel,
+and fish of like size, the bait stick being inserted with sufficient
+firmness to withstand the attacks of smaller fish. The bait should
+be firmly tied to the stick, or the latter supplied with two hooks
+at the end on which it should be firmly impaled. To set the trap,
+select a locality abounding in fish. Place a stone inside the bottom
+of the pipe, insert the bait stick and arrange the nooses.
+
+By now quietly grasping the curve of the switch the trap may be
+easily lowered to the bottom. The bait soon attracts a multitude
+of small fishes; these in turn attract the pickerel to the spot,
+and before many minutes the trap is sprung and may be raised from
+the water with its prisoner. This odd device is an invention of
+the author's, and it is as successful as it is unique.
+
+[Illustration: Maternal advice.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 123]
+[Illustration: HOUSEHOLD TRAPS]
+
+
+[Page 125]
+BOOK V.
+
+HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.
+
+[Illustration: F]or the most effectual domestic trap on record
+see our page title to this section. There are several others also
+which have done good service in many households, and for the sake
+of pestered housekeepers generally, we devote a corner of our volume
+for their especial benefit.
+
+Foremost in the list of domestic pests the rat stands pre-eminent,
+and his proverbial shrewdness and cunning render his capture often
+a very difficult, if not an impossible task. We subjoin, however,
+a few hints and suggestions of practical value, together with some
+perfected ideas in the shape of traps, by which the average rat
+may be easily outwitted and led to his destruction.
+
+First on the list is
+
+
+THE BARREL TRAP.
+
+This most ingenious device possesses great advantages in its
+capabilities of securing an almost unlimited number of the vermin
+in quick succession. It also takes care of itself, requires no
+re-baiting or setting after once put in working order, and is sure
+death to its prisoners.
+
+A water-tight barrel is the first thing required. Into this pour
+water to the depth of a foot. Next dampen a piece of very thick
+paper, and stretch it over the top of the barrel, tying it securely
+below the upper hoops. When the paper dries it will become thoroughly
+flat and tightened. Its surface should then be strewn with bits
+of cheese, etc., and the barrel so placed
+[Page 126]
+that the rats may jump upon it from some neighboring surface. As
+soon as the bait is gone, a fresh supply should be spread on the
+paper and the same operation repeated for several days, until the
+rats get accustomed to visit the place for their regular rations,
+fearlessly and without suspicion. This is "half the battle," and
+the capture of the greedy victims of misplaced confidence is now
+an easy matter. The bait should again be spread as before and a
+few pieces of the cheese should be attached to the paper with gum.
+It is a good plan to smear parts of the paper with gum arabic,
+sprinkling the bait upon it. When dry, cut a cross in the middle
+of the paper, as seen in the illustration, and leave the barrel
+to take care of itself and the rats. The first one comes along,
+spies the tempting morsels, and with his accustomed confidence,
+jumps upon the paper. He suddenly finds himself in the water at
+the bottom of the barrel, and the paper above has closed and is
+ready to practice its deception on the next comer. There is not
+long to wait. A second victim soon tumbles in to keep company with
+the first. A third and a fourth soon follow, and a dozen or more
+[Page 127]
+are sometimes thus entrapped in a very short space of time. It is a
+most excellent and simple trap, and if properly managed, will most
+effectually curtail the number of rats in any pestered neighborhood.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+By some, it is considered an improvement to place in the bottom
+of the barrel a large stone, which shall project above the water
+sufficiently to offer a foothold for one rat. The first victim,
+of course, takes possession of this retreat and on the precipitate
+arrival of the second a contest ensues for its occupancy. The hubbub
+which follows is said to attract all the rats in the neighborhood
+to the spot, and many are thus captured.
+
+We can hardly recommend the addition of the stone as being an
+improvement. The rat is a most notoriously shrewd and cunning animal,
+and the despairing cries of his comrades must rather tend to excite
+his caution and suspicion. By the first method the drowning is soon
+accomplished and the rat utters no sound whereby to attract and
+warn his fellows. This contrivance has been thoroughly tested and
+has proved its efficacy in many households by completely ridding
+the premises of the vermin.
+
+Another excellent form of Barrel Trap is that embodying the principle
+described in page (131). A circular platform should be first constructed
+and hinged in the opening of the barrel This may be done by driving
+a couple of small nails through the sides of the barrel into a
+couple of staples inserted near the opposite edges of the platform.
+The latter should be delicately weighted, as described on the above
+mentioned page, and previously to setting, should be baited in a
+stationary position for several days to gain the confidence of
+the rats. The bait should at last be secured to the platform with
+gum, and the bottom of the barrel of course filled with water, as
+already described. This trap possesses the same advantages as the
+foregoing. It is _self-setting_, and unfailing in its action.
+
+Another method consists in half-filling the barrel with oats, and
+allowing the rats to enjoy their repast there for several days.
+When thus attracted to the spot, remove the oats, and pour the same
+bulk of water into the barrel, sprinkling the surface thickly with
+the grain. The delusion is almost perfect, as will be effectually
+proven when the first rat visits the spot for his accustomed free
+lunch. Down he goes with a splash, is soon drowned, and sinks to
+the bottom. The next shares the same fate, and several more are
+likely to be added to the list of misguided victims.
+
+[Page 128]
+Many of the devices described throughout this work may be adapted
+for domestic use to good purpose. The box-trap page 103, box-snare,
+page 55, figure-four, page 107, are all suitable for the capture
+of the rat; also, the examples given on pages 106, 109, 110, and
+129.
+
+The steel-trap is often used, but should always be concealed from
+view. It is a good plan to set it in a pan covered with meal, and
+placed in the haunts of the rats. The trap may also be set at the
+mouth of the rats' hole, and covered with a piece of dark-colored
+cloth or paper. The runways between boxes, boards, and the like
+offer excellent situations for the trap, which should be covered,
+as before directed.
+
+Without one precaution, however, the trap may be set in vain. Much
+of the so-called shrewdness of the rat is nothing more than an
+instinctive caution, through the acute sense of smell which the
+animal possesses; and a trap which has secured one victim will
+seldom extend its list, unless all traces of its first occupant
+are thoroughly eradicated. This may be accomplished by smoking
+the trap over burning paper, hens' feathers or chips, taking care
+to avoid a heat so extreme as to affect the temper of the steel
+springs. All rat-traps should be treated the same way, in order to
+insure success, and the position and localities of setting should
+be frequently changed.
+
+
+THE BOX DEAD-FALL.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This trap is an old invention, simplified by the author, and for
+the capture of rats and mice will prove very effectual. It consists
+of a box, constructed of four slabs of 3-4 inch boarding, and open
+at both ends. The two side boards should be 10 x 18 inches; top
+and bottom boards, 6 x 18 inches. For the centre of the latter,
+a square piece should be removed by the aid of the saw. The width
+of this piece should be four inches, and the length eight inches.
+Before nailing the boards together, the holes thus left in the
+bottom board should be supplied with a treadle platform, working
+on central side pivots. The board for this treadle should be much
+thinner and lighter than the rest of the trap, and should fit loosely
+in place, its surface being slightly below the level of the bottom
+board. This is shown in the interior of the trap. The pivots should
+be inserted in the exact centre of the sides, through holes made
+in the edge of the bottom board. These holes may be bored with
+a gimlet or burned with a red-hot wire. The pivots may
+[Page 129]
+consist of stout brass or iron wire; and the end of one should
+be flattened with the hammer, as seen in (_a_). This pivot should
+project an inch from the wood, and should be _firmly_ inserted
+in the treadle-piece. The platform being thus arranged, proceed
+to fasten the boards together, as shown in the illustration, the
+top and bottom boards overlapping the others. We will now give
+our attention to the stick shown at (_b_). This should be whittled
+from a piece of hard wood, its length being three inches, and its
+upper end pointed as seen. The lower end should be pierced with a
+crevice, which should then be forced over the flattened extremity
+of the point (_a_) as shown at (_c_), pointed end uppermost. The
+weight (_d_) is next in order. This should consist of a heavy oak
+plank two inches in thickness, and of such other dimensions as will
+allow it to fit loosely in the box, and fall from top to bottom
+therein without catching between two sides. A stout staple should
+be driven in the centre of its upper face, and from this a stout
+string should be passed upward through a hole in the centre of
+the box. We are now ready for the spindle (_e_). This should be
+about three inches in length, and bluntly pointed
+[Page 130]
+at each end, a notch being made to secure it at a point five inches
+above the pivot (_c_). To set the trap, raise the weight, as seen
+in the illustration; draw down the string to the point (_e_), and
+attach it to the spindle one-half an inch from its upper end, which
+should then be inserted in the notch, the lower end being caught
+against the extremity of the pivot stick. The parts are now adjusted,
+and even in the present state the trap is almost sure to spring at
+the slightest touch on the treadle-piece. An additional precaution
+is advisable, however. Two small wooden pegs (_f_) should be driven,
+one on each side of the spindle, thus preventing any side-movement
+of the latter. It will now be readily seen that the slightest weight
+on either end of the treadle-piece within the trap must tilt it
+to one side, thus throwing the pivot-piece from its bearing on
+the spindle; and the latter being released, lets fall the weight
+with crushing effect upon the back of its hapless victim.
+
+The trap is very effective, and is easily constructed. The bait
+should be rested in the centre of the treadle platform. Built on
+a larger scale, this device may be successfully adapted to the
+capture of the mink, martien, and many other varieties of game.
+
+
+THE BOARD-FLAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 131]
+For the capture of mice this is both a simple and effective contrivance,
+and it may be enlarged so as to be of good service for larger animals.
+Procure two boards, one foot square and one inch thick, and secure
+them together by two hinges, as in the illustration. Assuming one
+as the upper board, proceed to bore a gimlet hole three inches
+from the hinges. This is for the reception of the bait stick, and
+should be cut away on the inside, as seen in the section (_a_),
+thus allowing a free play for the stick. Directly beneath this
+aperture, and in the lower board, a large auger hole should be made.
+A stout bit of iron wire, ten inches in length, is now required.
+This should be inserted perpendicularly in the further end of the
+lower slab, being bent into a curve which shall slide easily through
+a gimlet hole in the edge of the upper board. This portion is very
+important, and should be carefully constructed. The bait stick
+should be not more than three inches in length, supplied with a
+notch in its upper end, and secured in the aperture in the board by
+the aid of a pivot and staples, as is clearly shown in our drawing.
+The spindle is next in order. It should consist of a light piece
+of pine eight and a half inches in length, and brought to an edge
+at each end. A tack should now be driven at the further edge of
+the upper board on a line with the aperture through which the wire
+passes. Our illustration represents the trap as it appears when
+set. The upper band is raised to the full limit of the wire. One
+end of the spindle is now adjusted beneath the head of the tack,
+and the other in the notch in the bait stick. The wire thus supports
+the suspended board by sustaining the spindle, which is held in
+equilibrium. A slight touch on the bait stick soon destroys this
+equilibrium: a flap ensues, and a dead mouse is the result. The
+object of the auger hole in the lower board consists in affording a
+receptacle for the bait when the boards come together, as otherwise
+it would defeat its object, by offering an obstruction to the fall
+of the board, and thus allow its little mouse to escape.
+
+It is, therefore, an essential part of the trap, and should be carefully
+tested before being finally set.
+
+
+THE BOX PIT-FALL.
+
+We now come to a variety of trap which differs in its construction
+from any previously described. It secures its victims alive, and
+without harm, and, when well made, is very successful.
+[Page 132]
+It may be set for squirrels, chipmunks, rats, mice, and the like,
+and on a large scale for muskrats and mink.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The trap is very easily made, and is represented in section in
+our illustration, showing the height and interior of the box. For
+ordinary purposes the box should be about twelve or fourteen inches
+square, with a depth of about eighteen inches. A platform consisting
+of a piece of tin should then be procured. This should be just
+large enough to fit nicely to the outline of the interior of the
+box without catching. On two opposite sides of this piece of tin,
+and at the middle of each of those sides, a small strip of the
+same material should be wired, or soldered in the form of a loop,
+as shown in the separate diagram at (_b_). These loops should be
+only large enough to admit the end of a shingle-nail. A scratch
+should now be made across the tin from loop to loop, and on the
+centre of this scratch another and larger strip of tin should be
+fastened in a similar manner as shown in our diagram, at (_a_),
+this being for the balance weight. The
+[Page 133]
+latter may consist of a small stone, piece of lead, or the like,
+and should be suspended by means of a wire bent around it, and
+secured in a hole in the tin by a bend or knot in the other extremity.
+Further explanations are almost superfluous, as our main illustration
+fully explains itself.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+After the weight is attached, the platform should be secured in
+its place, about five inches from the top of the box. To accomplish
+this and form the hinges, two shingle-nails should be driven through
+the side of the box into the tin loops prepared for them. To do
+this nicely requires some considerable accuracy and care, and it
+should be so done that the platform will swing with perfect freedom
+and ease, the weight below bringing it to a horizontal poise after
+a few vibrations. Care should be taken that the weight is not too
+heavy, as, in such a case, the platform will not be sensitive on its
+balance, and, consequently, would not work so quickly and surely.
+The weight should be _just heavy enough_ to restore the platform
+to its perfect poise, and no more. This can be easily regulated
+by experiment. The bait should then be strewn on both sides of the
+platform, when the trap is set, and the luckless animal, jumping
+after the bait, feels his footing give way, and suddenly finds
+himself in the bottom of a dark box, from which it is impossible
+for him to escape except by gnawing his way out. To prevent this,
+the interior of the box may be lined with tin.
+
+By _fastening_ the bait--a small lump or piece--on each side of
+the tin, the trap will continually reset itself, and, in this way,
+two or three individuals may be taken, one after the other. Muskrats
+are frequently caught in this trap, it being generally buried in
+the ground so that its top is on a level with the surface. In this
+case it is necessary to arrange the platform lower down in the
+box, and the latter should be of much larger dimensions than the
+one we have described.
+
+[Page 134]
+For ordinary purposes the box should either be set in the ground or
+placed near some neighboring object which will afford easy access
+to it. No less than a dozen rats have been caught in a trap of
+this kind in a single night.
+
+
+CAGE TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The common cage trap is well known to most of our readers, and for
+the capture of rats and mice, it is one of the most efficacious
+devices in existence. The construction of one of these traps is
+quite a difficult operation, and we would hesitate before advising
+our inventive reader to exercise his patience and ingenuity in the
+manufacture of an article which can be bought for such a small
+price, and which, after all, is only a mouse trap. If it were a
+device for the capture of the _mink_ or _otter_, it might then be
+well worth the trouble, and would be likely to repay the time and
+labor expended upon it. We imagine that few would care to exercise
+their skill over a trap of such complicated structure, while our
+pages are filled with other simpler and equally effective examples.
+
+For the benefit, however, of such as are of an inventive turn of
+mind, we subjoin an illustration of the trap to serve as a guide.
+The principle upon which it works is very simple. The bait is
+[Page 135]
+strewn inside the cage, and the rats or mice find their only access
+to it through the hole at the top. The wires here converge at the
+bottom, and are pointed at the ends. The passage downwards is an
+easy matter, but to _escape_ through the same opening is impossible,
+as the pointed ends of the wires effectually prevent the ascent.
+It is a notable fact, however, that the efforts to escape through
+this opening are very seldom made. The mode of entering seems to
+be absolutely forgotten by the captive animals, and they rush
+frantically about the cage, prying between all the wires in their
+wild endeavors, never seeming to notice the central opening by which
+they entered. This is easily explained by the fact that the open
+grating admits the light from all sides, and the enclosed victims
+are thus attracted to no one spot in particular, and naturally rush
+to the extreme edges of the trap, in the hope of finding an exit.
+
+If a thick cloth be placed over the cage, leaving the opening at
+the top uncovered, the confined creatures are soon attracted by
+the light, and lose no time in rushing towards it, where their
+endeavors to ascend are effectually checked by the pointed wires.
+Profiting by this experiment, the author once improvised a simple
+trap on the same principle, which proved very effectual. We will
+call it
+
+
+THE JAR TRAP.
+
+In place of the wire cage, a glass preserve-jar was substituted.
+A few bits of cheese were then dropped inside, and the top of a
+funnel inserted into the opening above. This completed the trap,
+and it was set on the floor near the flour barrel. On the following
+morning the jar was occupied by a little mouse, and each successive
+night for a week added one to the list of victims. A stiff piece
+of tin, bent into the required shape, may be substituted for the
+funnel top, or even a very heavy piece of pasteboard might answer.
+
+
+BOWL TRAPS.
+
+Very effective extempore traps may be set up in a few minutes by
+the use of a few bowls. There are two methods commonly employed.
+One consists of the bowl and a knife-blade. An ordinary tableknife
+is used and a piece of cheese is firmly forced on to the end of
+the blade, the bowl is then balanced on the edge, allowing the
+bait to project about an inch and a half beneath the bowl. The odor
+of cheese will attract a mouse almost anywhere, and he soon finds
+[Page 136]
+his way to the tempting morsel in this case. A very slight nibble
+is sufficient to tilt the blade and the bowl falls over its prisoner.
+
+In the second method a thimble is used in place of the knife. The
+cheese is forced into its interior, and the open end of the thimble
+inserted far beneath the bowl, allowing about half its length to
+project outward.
+
+The mouse is thus obliged to pass under the bowl in order to reach
+the bait, and in his efforts to grasp the morsel, the thimble is
+dislodged and the captive secured beneath the vessel. Where a small
+thimble is used, it becomes necessary to place a bit of pasteboard
+or flat chip beneath it, in order to raise it sufficiently to afford
+an easy passage for the mouse. Both of these devices are said to
+work excellently.
+
+
+FLY PAPER.
+
+A sheet of common paper, smeared with a mixture composed of molasses
+one part, and bird-lime six parts (see page 97), will be found to
+attract large numbers of flies and hold them prisoners upon its
+surface.
+
+Spruce gum, warmed on the fire, and mixed with a little linseed
+oil, is also excellent. For a genuine fly trap, the following stands
+unrivalled.
+
+
+FLY TRAP.
+
+Take a tumbler, and half-fill it with strong soap suds. Cut a circle
+of stiff paper which will exactly fit into the top of the glass.
+In the centre of the paper cut a hole half an inch in diameter,
+or, better still, a slice of bread may be placed on the glass.
+Smear one side of the disc with molasses, and insert it in the
+tumbler with this side downward. Swarms of flies soon surround
+it, and one by one find their way downward through the hole. Once
+below the paper, and their doom is sealed. For a short time the
+molasses absorbs their attention, and they, in turn, absorb the
+molasses.
+
+In their efforts to escape, they one by one precipitate themselves
+in the soap suds below, where they speedily perish. The tumbler
+is soon half-filled with the dead insects, and where a number of
+the traps are set in a single room, the apartment is soon ridden
+of the pests.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 137]
+BOOK VI.
+
+STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.
+
+[Illustration: P]assing from our full and extended illustrated list
+of extempore, or "rough and ready" examples of the trap kind, we
+will now turn our attention to the consideration of that well-known
+implement, the trade _steel_ trap. Although the foregoing varieties
+often serve to good purpose, the Steel Trap is the principal device
+used by professional trappers, and possesses great advantages over
+all other traps. It is portable, sets easily and quickly, either on
+land or beneath the water; can be concealed with ease; secures its
+victims without injury to their fur, and by the application of the
+spring or sliding pole (hereafter described) will most effectually
+prevent the captive from making his escape by self-amputation, besides
+placing him beyond the reach of destruction by other animals.
+
+The author has known trappers who have plied their vocation largely
+by the aid of the various hand made traps, described in the earlier
+pages of this book, and with good success. But in the regular _business_
+of systematic trapping, their extensive use is not common. The
+experience of modern trappers generally, warrants the assertion
+that for practical utility, from every point of view, the steel
+trap stands unrivalled.
+
+These traps are made of all sizes, from that suitable for the capture
+of the house rat, to the immense and wieldy machine adapted to the
+grizzly, and known as the "bear tamer."
+
+They may be bought at almost any hardware shop, although a large
+portion of the traps ordinarily sold are defective. They should
+be selected with care, and the springs always tested
+[Page 138]
+before purchase. Besides the temper of the spring, there are also
+other necessary qualities in a steel trap, which we subjoin in
+order that the amateur may know how to judge and select his weapons
+judiciously.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+REQUISITES OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.
+
+1. _The jaws should not be too thin nor sharp cornered_. In the
+cheaper class of steel traps the jaws approach to the thinness
+of sheet-iron, and the result is that the thin edges often sever
+the leg of their would-be captive in a single stroke. At other
+times the leg is so deeply cut as to easily enable the animal to
+gnaw or twist it off. This is the common mode of escape, with many
+animals.
+
+2. _The pan should not be too large_. This is a very common fault
+with many steel traps and often defeats its very object. Where the
+pan is small, the foot of the animal in pressing it, will be directly
+in the centre of the snap of the jaw, and he is thus firmly secured
+far up on the leg. On the other hand, a large pan nearly filling
+the space between the jaws as the trap is set, may be sprung by a
+touch on its extreme edge, and the animal's toe is thus likely to
+get slightly pinched, if indeed the paw is not thrown off altogether
+by the forcible snap of the jaw.
+
+3. _The springs should be strong, scientifically tempered, and
+proportioned_. The strength of a perfectly tempered spring will
+always remain the same, whether in winter or summer, never losing
+its elasticity. The best of tempering, however, is useless in a
+spring badly formed or clumsily tapered.
+
+4. The jaws should be so curved as to give the bow of the spring
+a proper sweep to work upon. The jaws should lie _flat_ when open,
+and should always work easily on their hinges.
+
+5. Every trap should be furnished with a strong chain with ring and
+swivel attached, and in every case the swivel should turn easily.
+
+The celebrated "Newhouse Trap" embodies all the above requisites,
+and has deservedly won a reputation for excellence second to no
+other in this or any other country.
+
+They are made in eight sizes, as follows:
+
+[Illustration: No. 0.]
+
+This is the smallest size and is known as the RAT TRAP. It has a
+single spring, and the jaws spread three and a half inches when
+set.
+
+[Page 139]
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 141]
+[Illustration: No. 1.]
+
+This size is called the MUSKRAT TRAP, and the jaws spread four
+inches. It is especially designed for the capture of the mink, marten,
+and animals of similar size.
+
+[Illustration: No. 2.]
+
+This is known in the trade as the MINK TRAP, and the jaws spread
+nearly five inches. It is adapted for the fox, raccoon, or fisher.
+
+[Illustration: No. 2-1/2.]
+
+This size is called the FOX TRAP. The spread of the jaws is the
+same as in the foregoing, but the trap is provided with two springs,
+and consequently has double the power. It is strong enough for
+the otter, and is generally used for the capture of the fox and
+fisher.
+
+[Illustration: No. 3.]
+
+No.3 goes by the name of the OTTER TRAP. The jaws spread five and
+a half inches, and the powerful double springs do excellent service
+in the capture of the beaver, fox, badger, opossum, wild cat, and
+animals of like size.
+
+[Illustration: No. 4.]
+
+Commonly called the BEAVER TRAP. Jaws spread six and a half inches.
+This size is especially adapted to the wolf, lynx or wolverine. It
+may also be set for deer, and extra sets of jaws are made expressly
+for this purpose, being easily inserted in the place of the ordinary
+jaws, when desired.
+
+[Page 142]
+[Illustration: No. 6.]
+
+This is known as the "GREAT BEAR TAMER," and is a most formidable
+weapon. The jaws spread sixteen inches, and the weight of the machine
+is forty-two pounds. It is extensively used in the capture of the
+moose and grizzly bear, and is the largest and most powerful steel
+trap made in this or any other country. The springs possess most
+tremendous power, and require to be set by a lever, as the weight
+of an ordinary man has not the slightest effect upon them. This
+lever may be easily applied, as follows: Have at hand four stout
+straps, supplied with buckles. These should always be carried by
+the trapper, where the larger double-spring traps are used. To
+adjust the lever, cut four heavy sticks about three feet long.
+Take two of them and secure their ends together, side by side,
+with one of the straps. Now insert the spring of the trap between
+them, near the strap. Bear down heavily on the other extremity of
+the lever, and the spring will be found to yield easily, after
+which the remaining ends of the levers should be secured by a second
+strap. The other spring should now be treated in the same way,
+after which the jaws should be spread and the pan adjusted. The
+removal of the straps and levers is now an easy matter, after which
+[Page 143]
+the trap is set. The stoutest spring is easily made to yield by such
+treatment.
+
+[Illustration: No. 5.]
+
+The SMALL BEAR TRAP. The jaws of this size spread nearly a foot,
+and the weight of the trap is seventeen pounds. It is used in the
+capture of the black bear, puma, and animals of similar size.
+
+All of the foregoing are supplied with swivels and chains.
+
+
+HINTS ON BAITING THE STEEL TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is a very common and erroneous idea current among amateur
+sportsmen and others in regard to the baiting of the steel trap;
+viz., that the pan of the trap is intended for the _bait_. This
+was the old custom in the traps of bygone times, but no modern
+trap is intended to be so misused, and would indeed often defeat
+its object in such a case, wherein it will be easily
+[Page 144]
+seen. The object of the professional trapper is the acquisition
+of furs; and a prime fur skin should be without break or bruise,
+from nose to tail. A trap set as above described, would of course
+catch its victim by the head or neck, and the fur would be more
+or less injured at the very spot where it should be particularly
+free from blemish.
+
+The true object of the steel trap is, that it shall take the animal
+by the _leg_, thus injuring the skin only in a part where it is
+totally valueless.
+
+We give, then, this imperative rule--_Never bait a steel trap on
+the pan_.
+
+The pan is intended for the _foot_ of the game, and in order to
+insure capture by this means, the bait should be so placed as that
+the attention of the animal will be _drawn away_ from the trap;
+the latter being in such a position as will cause the victim to
+_step in it_ when reaching for the tempting allurement.
+
+There are several ways of doing this, one of which we here illustrate.
+
+A pen of stakes, in the shape of the letter V, is first constructed.
+The trap is then set in the angle, and the bait attached to the
+end stake directly over it. Another method is shown in the picture
+on our title-page to this section, the bait being suspended on a
+stick above the trap. There are various other methods on the same
+principle, which will be described hereafter, under the titles of
+the various game.
+
+
+THE SPRING POLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is nearly always used in connection with the steel trap, in
+the capture of the smaller land animals. It not only lifts the
+creature into the air, and thus prevents its becoming a prey to
+other animals, but it also guards against the escape of the victim
+by the amputation of its own leg. This is a very common mode of
+release with many kinds of game--notably the mink, marten, and
+muskrat; and for the successful trapping of these, as well as many
+other animals, the spring and sliding pole are absolute necessities.
+It is a simple contrivance, consisting merely of a pole inserted
+in the ground near the trap. The pole is then bent down, and the
+trap chain secured to its end. A small, notched peg is next driven
+into the ground and the top of the pole caught in it, and thus
+held in a bent position. When the animal is caught, its struggles
+release the pole, and the latter, flying up with a jerk,
+[Page 145]
+lifts the trap and its occupant high in the air, out of the reach
+of marauders, and beyond the power of escape by self-amputation.
+Even in the capture of large game the spring pole often serves to
+good purpose. The struggles of a heavy animal are often so violent
+as to break a stout trap or chain; and the force of the spring
+pole, although not sufficient to raise the animal from its feet,
+often succeeds in easing the strain, and often thus saves a trap
+from being broken to pieces. The power of the pole must of course
+be proportionate to the weight of the desired game.
+
+
+THE SLIDING POLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first impulse with almost every aquatic animal when caught in
+a trap, is to plunge headlong into deep water. With the smaller
+animals, such as the mink and muskrat, this is all that is desired by
+the trapper, as the weight of the trap with the chain is sufficient
+to drown its victim. But with larger animals, the beaver and otter
+for instance, an additional precaution, in the shape of the "sliding
+pole," is necessary. This consists of a pole about ten feet long,
+smoothly trimmed of its branches, excepting at the tip, where a
+few stubs should be left. Insert this end obliquely into the bed
+of the stream, where the water is
+[Page 146]
+deep, and secure the large end to the bank by means of a hooked
+stick, as seen in our illustration. The ring of the chain should
+be large enough to slide easily down the entire length of the pole.
+When the trap is set, the ring should be slipped on the large end
+of the pole, and held in place by resting a stick against it. The
+animal, when caught, plunges off into deep water, and guided by
+the pole, is led to the bottom of the river. The ring slides down
+to the bed of the stream, and there holds its victim until drowned.
+
+
+THE CLOG.
+
+A trap which is set for heavy game should never be secured to a
+stake. Many of the larger and more powerful animals when caught
+in a trap thus secured, are apt either to pull or twist their legs
+off, or break both trap and chain to pieces. To guard against this,
+the chain should be weighted with a pole or small log, of a size
+proportionate to the dimensions of the game, its weight being merely
+sufficient to offer a serious incumbrance to the animal, without
+positively checking its movements. This impediment is called the
+"clog," and is usually attached to the ring of the trap chain by
+its larger end, the ring being slipped over the latter, and secured
+in place by a wedge. A look at our frontispiece will give a clear
+idea of both clog and attachment.
+
+
+[Page 147]
+THE GRAPPLING IRON.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This answers the same purpose as the above, and is often used instead.
+It is manufactured in connection with the larger steel traps, and
+is attached to the chain by a swivel joint. Its general shape is
+shown in an engraving, and it offers a serious resistance to the
+victim, who endeavors to run away with it.
+
+
+THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING.
+
+The business of trapping for profit must be confined to the season
+between the first of October and the beginning of May, as furs
+of all kinds are worthless when taken during the other months of
+the year. The reason for this is obvious. A "_prime fur_" must be
+"_thick_" and "_full_," and as all our fur-bearing animals shed
+their heavy winter coats as warm weather approaches, it necessarily
+follows that the capture at this season would be unprofitable. As
+the autumn approaches the new growth appears, and the fur becomes
+thick and glossy. By the middle of October most furs are in their
+prime, but the heart of winter is the best time for general trapping.
+[Page 148]
+The furs of the mink, muskrat, fisher, marten and beaver are not in
+their perfect prime until this season. And _all_ other furs are
+_sure_ to be in good condition at this time.
+
+
+THE ART OF TRAPPING.
+
+From time immemorial, and in every nation of the world, the art
+of trapping has been more or less practised. By some as a means
+of supplying their wants in the shape of daily food, and by others
+for the purpose of merchandise or profit.
+
+To be a clever and successful trapper, much more is required than
+is generally supposed. The mere fact of a person's being able to
+set a trap cleverly and judiciously forms but a small part of his
+proficiency; and unless he enters deeper into the subject and learns
+something of the nature and habits of the animals he intends to
+catch, his traps will be set in vain, or at best meet with but
+indifferent success. The study of natural history here becomes
+a matter of necessity as well as pleasure and profit. And unless
+the trapper thoroughly acquaints himself with the habits of his
+various game, the sagacity and cunning of his intended victim will
+often outwit his most shrewd endeavors, much to his chagrin. The
+sense of smell, so largely developed in many animals, becomes one
+of the trappers most serious obstacles, and seems at times to amount
+almost to positive _reason_, so perfectly do the creatures baffle
+the most ingenious attempts of man in his efforts to capture them.
+A little insight into the ways of these artful animals, however,
+and a little experience with their odd tricks soon enables one
+to cope with them successfully and overcome their whims. For the
+benefit of the amateur who has not had the opportunity of studying
+for himself, the peculiarities of the various game, the author
+appends a comprehensive chapter on "Practical Natural History,"
+in which will be found full accounts of the peculiar habits and
+leading characteristics of all the various animals commonly sought
+by the trapper, together with detailed directions for trapping
+each variety, supplemented with a faithful portrait of the animal
+in nearly every instance. A careful reading of the above mentioned
+chapter will do much towards acquainting the novice with the ways
+of the sly creatures, which he hopes to victimize, and will thus
+prepare him to contend with them successfully.
+
+In the art of trapping the bait is often entirely dispensed with,
+the traps being set and carefully concealed in the _runways_ of
+the various animals. These by-paths are easily detected by an
+[Page 149]
+experienced trapper, and are indicated either by footprints or
+other evidences of the animal, together with the matted leaves and
+broken twigs and grasses.
+
+Natural channels, such as hollow logs or crevices between rocks
+or fallen trees, offer excellent situations for steel traps, and a
+good trapper is always on the _qui vive_ for such chance advantages,
+thus often saving much of the time and labor which would otherwise
+be spent in the building of artificial enclosures, etc.
+
+The most effective baits used in the art of trapping are those
+which are used to attract the animal through its sense of smell, as
+distinct from that of its mere appetite for food. These baits are
+known in the profession as "medicine," or scent baits and possess
+the most remarkable power of attracting the various animals from
+great distances, and leading them almost irresistibly to any desired
+spot. Such is the barks tone or castoreum, of such value in the
+capture of the beaver, and the oil of anise, so commonly used for
+the trapping of animals in general. These various substances will
+presently be considered under their proper heading.
+
+Many detailed and specific directions on the subject of trapping
+will be found in the long chapter following; and, in closing our
+preliminary remarks, we would add just one more word of general
+caution, which the young trapper should always bear in mind.
+
+In all cases avoid handling the trap with the bare hand. Many an
+amateur has set and _reset_ his traps in vain, and retired from the
+field of trapping in disgust, from the mere want of observing this
+rule. Animals of keen scent are quick in detecting the slightest
+odors, and that left by the touch of a human hand often suffices to
+drive the creature away from a trap which, under other circumstances,
+would have been its certain destruction. To be sure the various
+scent baits already alluded to, will in a measure overcome human
+traces, but not always effectually, and in order to insure success no
+precautions so simple should be neglected. A pair of clean buckskin
+gloves are valuable requisites to the trapper, and should always
+be "on hand" when setting or transporting traps.
+
+
+"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS.
+
+These form one of the most important requisites of the trapper's
+art. A trap baited simply with the food of the
+[Page 150]
+required animal, may and often will be successful, but with the
+addition of the trapper's "medicine" judicially applied, success
+is almost a certainty. These scent baits are of various kinds,
+some being almost universal in their usefulness, while others are
+attractive only to some particular species of animal. We give a
+few of the recipes of the most valued preparations used by trappers
+throughout the land. The application and use of each is fully described
+in its proper place hereafter.
+
+
+CASTOREUM.
+
+This substance, commonly known as "_Barkstone_," by trappers and
+fur dealers, is obtained from the beaver, and is a remarkable aid in
+the capture of that animal. It is an acrid secretion of a powerful
+musky odor, found in two glands beneath the root of the tail of
+the beaver. These glands are about two inches in length. They are
+cut out and the contents are squeezed into a small bottle. When
+fresh the substance is of a yellowish-red color, changing to a
+light-brown when dried. Both male and female animals yield the
+castoreum, but that of the male is generally considered the best.
+Castoreum is a commercial drug, and in many beaver countries it
+is quite an article of trade. There are other sacs lying directly
+behind the castor glands which contain a strong oil of rancid smell.
+This should not be confounded with the Castoreum.
+
+
+CASTOREUM COMPOSITION.
+
+The Barkstone is used both pure and in combination with other
+substances, the following prescription being much used: Into the
+contents of about ten of the castor bags, mix two ground nutmegs,
+thirty or forty cloves, also powdered, one drop essence of peppermint,
+and about two thimblefuls of ground cinnamon. Into this stir as
+much whisky as will give the whole the consistency of paste, after
+which the preparation should be bottled and kept carefully corked.
+At the expiration of a few days the odor increases ten-fold in power
+and is ready for use. A bottle, if thus prepared, will retain its
+strength for nearly a half year, provided it is kept closely corked.
+A few drops of either the pure castoreum or the combination spread
+upon the bait or in the neighborhood of the trap, as described
+under the chapter on the Beaver, will entice that animal from a
+great distance.
+
+
+[Page 151]
+MUSK.
+
+This substance is a secretion obtained from several different animals,
+notably the otter and muskrat. The glands which contain it are
+located similarly to the castor glands of the beaver, and the musk
+should be discharged into a vial, as previously described. The
+musk of the female muskrat is said to be the most powerful, and
+is chiefly used by trappers in the capture of that animal, the
+otter being chiefly attracted by its own musk.
+
+
+ASSAFOETIDA.
+
+This foul smelling production seems to have a specially attractive
+fragrance to many animals, and for general use is much esteemed by
+trappers. It is a vegetable drug from Persia and the East Indies,
+and is imported in the form of concrete juice, of a brown color.
+
+
+OIL OF RHODIUM.
+
+This is a vegetable oil obtained from a species of rose, and is
+quite costly. Its power of attracting animals is surprising, and
+it is in very common use among trappers.
+
+
+FISH OIL.
+
+This is especially useful in the capture of the majority of the
+fur tribe, and particularly the water animals.
+
+The oil may be bought ready for use, or prepared with little trouble.
+The common method consists in cutting up fish of any kind, especially
+eels, into small bits, putting them in a bottle, and setting the
+latter in the full exposure to the sun. It should thus be left
+for about two weeks, at the end of which time a rancid oil will
+have formed. A few drops of this oil will entice many animals from
+surprising distances, often drawing their attention to a bait which
+otherwise they might never have scented.
+
+
+OIL OF SKUNK.
+
+This, the _ne plus ultra_, or quintessence of diabolical stench,
+yields the tempting savor which irresistibly attracts many animals
+to their final doom. It is contained in a pouch beneath the insertion
+of the tail of the animal, and is spread abroad by the
+[Page 152]
+creature with lavish extravagance when circumstances demand, or we
+might say when occasion permits. It may be taken from the animal
+and bottled as already described in other instances, chloride of
+lime being used to eradicate the stench from the hands.
+
+
+OIL OF AMBER.
+
+This substance is frequently referred to in the following pages,
+and is a vegetable product of the amber gum of commerce. The Oil
+of Ambergris is also sometimes used by trappers, and is likewise
+known as Amber Oil. The two are thus often confounded, although
+the former is supposed to be most generally used.
+
+
+OIL OF ANISE.
+
+This is strongly recommended by many trappers as a most excellent
+"universal medicine." It is a vegetable product, and is obtainable
+at any drug store.
+
+SWEET FENNEL.
+
+This plant is commonly cultivated all over the United States, and
+the seeds are often powdered and used as a scent bait. The Oil of
+Fennel is preferable, however, and may be had at almost any drug
+store.
+
+
+CUMMIN.
+
+This is another plant, somewhat resembling the former, and, like
+it, cultivated for its seeds. It has an aromatic taste, and its
+strong pungent odor renders it of great value to the trapper. The
+seeds may be powdered and thus used, or the oil of the plant may
+be easily procured. The latter is preferable.
+
+
+FENUGREEK.
+
+Like the two foregoing this plant is valuable for its seeds, which
+are used for medicinal purposes. The oil or bruised seeds may be
+used.
+
+
+LAVENDER.
+
+This is another aromatic plant, the oil of which, either pure or
+diluted with alcohol, is much used in the trapper's art.
+
+
+[Page 153]
+COMPOUND.
+
+For ordinary use, a mixture of Assafoetida, Musk, Oil of Anise,
+and Fish Oil, together with a few drops of the Oil of Rhodium, is
+especially recommended by our most skilled trappers. This preparation
+contains the various substances which are known to attract the
+different fur bearing animals, and its use often insures success
+where anyone of the simple substances would be ineffectual.
+
+
+THE TRAIL.
+
+The object of the "trail" consists in offering a leading scent
+which, when followed, will bring the animal to the various traps,
+and when properly made will be the means of drawing large numbers
+of game from all quarters and from great distances, whereas without
+it the traps might remain undiscovered.
+
+Trails are sometimes made to connect a line of traps, as when set
+along the banks of streams for mink, etc., at other times, as in
+trapping the fox, for instance, they should extend from the trap on
+all sides, like the spokes of a wheel from the hub, thus covering
+considerable area, and rendering success more certain than it would
+be without this precaution.
+
+The combination "medicine" just described is excellent for the
+purposes of a trail for minks, otter, muskrat, and many other animals.
+
+Soak a piece of meat, or piece of wood in the preparation, and
+drag it along the ground between the traps. A dead fish smeared
+with the fluid will also answer the same purpose. The soles of
+the boots may also be smeared with the "medicine" and the trail
+thus accomplished. Trails of various kinds are considered under
+their respective and appropriate heads in the chapters on animals,
+all of which will be found useful and effective.
+
+
+HOW TO TRAP.
+
+In the following pages will be found full and ample directions
+for the trapping of all our leading game, together with detailed
+descriptions of peculiar habits of each species. The various articles
+contain careful descriptions, whereby the species may be readily
+recognized, and, in nearly every case, are accompanied by faithful
+illustrations. We add also valuable directions for the best manner of
+removing the skin of each animal, this being a matter of considerable
+importance, as affecting their pecuniary value.
+
+
+[Page 154]
+THE FOX.
+
+Foremost in the list of animals noted for their sly craft, and
+the hero of a host of fables and well-authenticated stories, in
+which artful cunning gains the advantage over human intelligence,
+Reynard, the fox, reigns supreme. There is scarcely a professional
+trapper in the land who has not, in his day, been hoodwinked by the
+wily strategy of this sly creature, whose extreme cunning renders
+him the most difficult of all animals to trap. The fox belongs to
+the Dog family, and there are six varieties inhabiting the United
+States. The red species is the most common and is too well known
+to need a description here. The Cross Fox considerably resembles
+the above, only being much darker in color, the red hair being
+thickly speckled with black. This species varies considerably in
+color in different individuals, often much resembling the red variety,
+and again approaching nearer in color to the Black or Silver Fox.
+This variation, together with the name of the animal, has given
+rise among trappers to the wide-spread belief of the animal being
+a cross between the two species which it so nearly resembles. It
+seems to be a permanent variety, however, the term cross being
+applied, we believe, on account of a dark marking on the back,
+between the shoulders of the animal, suggestive of that title.
+The Silver or Black Fox is the most beautiful and most rare of the
+genus, and yields the most valuable fur produced in this country.
+Its color is black, with the exception of the tip of the tail,
+which is white. The Prairie Fox is the largest of the species. It
+inhabits the Western Prairies, and in color resembles the common
+red variety, only being a trifle yellower.
+
+The Kit, or Swift Fox, is smaller than the Red, and abounds in the
+Western States.
+
+The Gray Fox is a Southern variety, and is very beautiful. It is
+less daring and cunning than the Common Fox, and seldom approaches
+a farm-yard, where it is in close proximity to a dwelling.
+
+The general habits and characteristics of all the foxes are similar.
+For natural cunning they take the lead of all other animals. They
+are all built for speed, and their senses of smell and hearing
+are acutely developed. Their food consists of wild fowl of all
+kinds, rabbits, squirrels, birds and their eggs, together with
+many kinds of ripe fruits, "sour grapes" not included. They live
+in burrows, often usurped, or crevices between rocks; and their
+[Page 155]
+young, from three to nine in number, are brought forth in March.
+
+We are strongly tempted to narrate a few remarkable instances of
+the animal's cunning, but we forbear for want of space. Our reader
+must take it for granted that when he attempts to trap a fox, he
+will be likely to find more than his match in the superior craftiness
+of that animal. If the trap is overturned and the bait gone, or if
+repeatedly sprung and found empty, he must not be surprised or
+discouraged, for he is experiencing only what all other trappers
+have experienced before him. There are instances on record where
+this knowing creature has sprung the trap by dropping a stick upon
+the pan, afterwards removing the suspended bait to enjoy it at
+his leisure. His movements are as lithe and subtile as those of
+a snake, and when "cornered" there is no telling what caper that
+cunning instinct and subtlety of body will not lead him to perform.
+When pursued by hounds he has been known to lead them a long chase
+at full speed up to the crest of a hill: here he leaps a shrub,
+swiftly as an arrow, and landing on the ground on the opposite
+declivity quickly returns beneath the brushwood and crouches down
+closely upon the ground. Presently the hounds come along in full
+cry, and blazing scent they dart over the shrub in full pursuit,
+dash down the hillside, never stopping until at the bottom of the
+hill they find they are off the trail. As soon as the hounds are
+passed, sly Reynard cautiously takes to his legs: creeping adroitly
+back over the brow of the hill, he runs for a considerable distance
+on his back trail, and at last, after taking a series of long jumps
+therefrom returns to his covert at leisure. Page after page might
+be filled to the glory of this creature's cunning, but enough has
+been said to give the young trapper an insight into the character
+of the animal he hopes to victimize, and prepare him for a trial
+of skill which, without this knowledge, would be a most one-sided
+affair.
+
+We would not advise our young amateur to calculate very confidently
+on securing a fox at the first attempt, but we can truthfully vouch
+that if the creature can be _caught at all_, it can be done by
+following the directions we now give.
+
+One of the most essential things in the trapping of this, as well
+as nearly all animals, is that the trap should be _perfectly clean
+and free from rust_. The steel trap No.2, page 141 is the best
+for animals of the size of the Fox. The trap should be washed in
+weak lye, being afterwards well greased and finally smoked over
+burning hen's feathers.
+
+[Page 156]
+All this and even more precaution is necessary. No matter how strongly
+scented the trap may be, with the smoke, or other substances, a
+mere touch of the bare hand will leave a _human scent_ which the
+fox perceives as soon as the other, and this is enough to deaden
+his enthusiasm over the most tempting bait.
+
+On this account, it is necessary always to handle the trap with
+buckskin gloves, never allowing the bare hand to come in contact
+with it, on any account, after once prepared for setting.
+
+Before arranging the trap for its work, it is necessary to construct
+what is called a "bed." There are several methods of doing this;
+but from all we can learn from the most experienced trappers, the
+following is the most successful. The bed should be made on flat
+ground, using any of the following substances: Buckwheat chaff,
+which is the best, oat, wheat, or hay chaff, or in lieu of these,
+moss or wood ashes. Let the bed be three feet in diameter, and an
+inch and a half in depth. To insure success it is the best plan
+to bait the bed itself for several days with scraps of beef or
+cheese strewn upon, and near it. If the fox once visits the place,
+discovers the tempting morsels and enjoys a good meal unmolested,
+he will be sure to revisit the spot so long as he finds a "free
+lunch" awaiting him. When he is found to come regularly and take
+the bait, he is as good as caught, provided our instructions are
+carefully followed. Take the trap, previously prepared as already
+described, chain it securely to a small log of wood about two feet
+long. Dig a hole in the earth in the centre of the bed, large enough
+to receive the trap, with its log, and chain. Set the traps, supporting
+the pan by pushing some of the chaff beneath it. Now lay a piece
+of paper over the pan and sprinkle the chaff over it evenly and
+smoothly, until every trace of the trap and its appendages is
+obliterated. Endeavor to make the bed look as it has previously
+done, and bait it with the same materials. Avoid treading much
+about the bed and step in the same tracks as far as possible. Touch
+nothing with the naked hands. Cover up all the footprints as much
+as possible, and leave the trap to take care of itself and any
+intruder. If our directions have been accurately followed, and due
+care has been exercised on the part of the young trapper, there
+is every probability that the next morning will reward him with
+his fox. But if a day or two elapse without success, it is well to
+resort to the "scent baits" described on page 149. Take the trap
+out of the bed, and with a feather smear it with melted beeswax,
+or rub it with a little Oil of Rhodium, Assafoetida, or Musk. Oil
+of Amber, and Lavender water are also used for the same
+[Page 157]
+purpose by many professional trappers. These are not always necessary
+but are often used as a last resort, and will most always insure
+success.
+
+Another method of baiting is shown in our page illustration opposite,
+and consists in suspending the bait by a stick in such a position
+that the fox will be obliged to step upon the trap in order to
+reach it. The bed should be baited in this way several times before
+the trap is set. This method is very commonly employed.
+
+Another still, is to bury the dead body of a rabbit or bird in
+loose earth, covering the whole with chaff. Sprinkle a few drops
+of Musk, or Oil of Amber over the bed. After the fox has taken
+the bait, the place should be rebaited and the trap inserted in
+the mound and covered with the chaff, being scented as before.
+
+Some trappers employ the following method with good results: The
+trap is set, in a spring or at the edge of a small shallow brook
+and attached by a chain to a stake in the bank, the chain being
+under water. There should be only about an inch and a half of water
+over the trap, and its distance from the shore should be about
+a foot and a half, or even less. In order to induce the fox to
+place his foot in the trap it is necessary to cut a sod of grass,
+just the size of the inside of the jaws of the trap, and place it
+over the pan, so that it will project above the water and offer
+a tempting foot rest for the animal while he reaches for the bait
+which rests in the water just beyond. To accomplish this device
+without springing the trap by the weight of the sod, it is necessary
+to brace up the pan from beneath with a small perpendicular stick,
+sufficiently to neutralize the pressure from above. The bait may
+be a dead rabbit or bird thrown on the water outside of the trap
+and about a foot from it, being secured by a string and peg. If
+the fox spies the bait he will be almost sure to step upon the
+sod to reach it, and thus get caught.
+
+If none of these methods are successful, the young trapper may at
+least content himself with the idea that the particular fox he is
+after is an _old fellow_ and is "not to be caught with chaff" or
+any thing else,--for if these devices will not secure him _nothing_
+will. If he is a young and comparatively unsophisticated specimen,
+he will fall an easy victim to any of the foregoing stratagems.
+
+Although steel traps are generally used in the capture of foxes,
+a cleverly constructed and baited dead-fall such as is described
+on page 113 will often do capital service in that direction. By
+[Page 158]
+arranging and baiting the trap as therein described, even a fox
+is _likely to become_ its prey.
+
+To skin the fox the pelt should be first ripped down each hind
+leg to the vent. The skin being cut loose around this point, the
+bone of the tail should next be removed. This may be done by holding
+a split stick tightly over the bone after which the latter may be
+easily pulled out of the skin.
+
+The hide should then be drawn back, and carefully removed, working
+with caution around the legs, and particularly so about the eyes,
+ears, and lips when these points are reached. The skin should be
+stretched as described on page 273.
+
+
+THE WOLF.
+
+The United States are blessed with several species of this animal.
+The Grey Wolf, which is the largest, and the smaller, Prairie Wolf
+or Coyote, being the most commonly known. There are also the White
+Wolf, Black Wolf and the Texan or Red Wolf. In outward form they
+all bear a considerable resemblance to each other, and their habits
+are generally similar in the different varieties.
+
+Wolves are fierce and dangerous animals, and are very powerful of
+limb and fleet of foot. They are extremely cowardly in character,
+and will seldom attack man or animal except when by their greater
+numbers they would be sure of victory. Wolves are found in almost
+every quarter of the globe. Mountain and plain, field, jungle and
+prairie are alike infested with them, and they hunt in united bands,
+feeding upon almost any animal which by their combined attacks
+they can overpower.
+
+Their inroads upon herds and sheep folds are sometimes horrifying,
+and a single wolf has been known to kill as many as forty sheep
+in a single night, seemingly from mere blood-thirsty desire.
+
+In the early colonization of America, wolves ran wild over the
+country in immense numbers, and were a source of great danger;
+but now, owing to wide-spread civilization, they have disappeared
+from the more settled localities and are chiefly found in Western
+wilds and prairie lands.
+
+The Grey Wolf is the largest and most formidable representative of
+the Dog tribe on this continent. Its general appearance is truthfully
+given in our drawing. Its length, exclusive of the tail, is about
+four feet, the length of the tail being about a foot and a half.
+Its color varies from yellowish grey to almost
+[Page 159]
+white in the northern countries, in which latitude the animal is
+sometimes found of an enormous size, measuring nearly seven feet in
+length. The fur is coarse and shaggy about the neck and haunches,
+and the tail is bushy. They abound in the region east of the Rocky
+Mountains and northward, and travel in packs of hundreds in search
+of prey. Bisons, wild horses, deer and even bears fall victims
+to their united fierceness, and human beings, too, often fall a
+prey to their ferocious attacks.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Coyote, or Common Prairie Wolf, also known as the Burrowing
+Wolf, as its name implies inhabits the Western plains and prairies.
+They are much smaller than the Grey Wolf, and not so dangerous. They
+travel in bands and unitedly attack whatever animal they desire
+to kill. Their homes are made in burrows which they excavate in the
+ground. The Texan Wolf inhabits the latitude of Texas and southward.
+It is of a tawny red color and nearly as large as the grey species,
+possessing the same savage nature.
+
+In April or May the female wolf retires to her burrow or den, and
+her young, from six to ten in number, are brought forth.
+
+The wolf is almost as sly and cunning as the fox, and the same
+caution is required in trapping the animal. They are extremely keen
+scented, and the mere touch of a human hand on the trap is often
+enough to preclude the possibility of capture. A mere footprint,
+or the scent of tobacco juice, they look upon with great suspicion,
+[Page 160]
+and the presence of either will often prevent success.
+
+The same directions given in regard to trapping the fox are equally
+adapted for the wolf. The trap (size No, 4, page 141) should be
+smoked or smeared with beeswax or blood, and set in a bed of ashes
+or other material as therein described, covering with moss, chaff,
+leaves or some other light substance. The clog should be fully
+twice as heavy as that used for the fox. Some trappers rub the
+traps with "brake leaves," sweet fern, or even skunk's cabbage.
+Gloves should always be worn in handling the traps, and all tracks
+should be obliterated as much as if a fox were the object sought
+to be secured.
+
+A common way of securing the wolf consists in setting the trap
+in a spring or puddle of water, throwing the dead body of some
+large animal in the water beyond the trap in such a position that
+the wolf will be obliged to tread upon the trap, in order to reach
+the bait. This method is described both under the head of the Fox
+and the Bear.
+
+Another plan is to fasten the bait between two trees which are
+very close together, setting a trap on each side and carefully
+concealing them as already directed, and securing each to a clog
+of about twenty pounds in weight. The enclosure described on page
+144 is also successful.
+
+There are various scent or trail baits used in trapping the wolf.
+Oil of Assafoetida is by many trappers considered the best, but
+Oil of Rhodium, powdered fennel, fenugreek and Cummin Oil are also
+much used. It is well to smear a little of the first mentioned oil
+near the traps, using any one of the other substances, or indeed a
+mixture of them all, for the trail. This may be made by smearing the
+preparation on the sole of the boots and walking in the direction
+of the traps, or by dragging from one trap to another a piece of
+meat scented with the substance, as described under the head of
+Mink.
+
+The wolf is an adept at feigning death, playing "'possum" with a
+skill which would do credit to that veritable animal itself.
+
+A large dead-fall, constructed of logs, page 17, when skilfully
+scented and baited, will often allure a wolf into its clutches,
+and a very strong twitch-up, with a noose formed of heavy wire, or
+a strip of stout calf hide, will successfully capture the crafty
+creature.
+
+In skinning the wolf the hide may be removed either by, first ripping
+up the belly, or in a circular piece, as described connection with
+the fox, both methods being much used. The board and hoop stretchers
+[Page 161]
+used in preparing the skin are described on pages 273 and 275.
+
+
+THE PUMA.
+
+The puma, commonly known also as the panther or cougar, is the
+largest American representative of the Cat tribe, and for this
+reason is often dignified by the name of the "American Lion." It
+is found more or less abundantly throughout the United States;
+and although not generally considered a dangerous foe to mankind,
+it has often been known in the wild districts to steal upon the
+traveller unawares, and in many instances human beings have fallen
+a prey to the powerful claws and teeth of this powerful animal.
+
+The life of the puma is mostly in the trees. Crouching upon the
+branches it watches for, or steals, cat-like, upon its prey. Should
+a solitary animal pass within reach, the puma will not hesitate in
+pouncing upon the unfortunate creature; but if a herd of animals,
+or party of men, should be travelling together, the caution of
+the brute asserts itself, and he will often dog their footsteps
+for a great distance, in hopes of securing a straggler. Birds are
+struck down by a single blow of the puma's ready paw, and so quick
+are his movements that even though a bird has risen on the wing,
+he can often make one of his wonderful bounds, and with a light,
+quick stroke, arrest the winged prey before it has time to soar
+beyond reach. The puma is a good angler. Sitting by the water's
+edge he watches for his victims, and no sooner does an unfortunate
+fish swim within reach, than the nimble paw is outstretched, and
+it is swept out of the water on dry land, and eagerly devoured.
+
+A puma has been known to follow the track of travellers for days
+together, only daring to show itself at rare intervals, and never
+endeavoring to make an attack except through stealth. The animal
+will often approach cautiously upon a traveller until sufficiently
+near to make its fatal spring; but if the pursued party suddenly turn
+round and face the crawling creature, the beast becomes discomfited
+at once, and will retreat from the gaze which seems to it a positive
+terror. So long as a puma can be kept in sight, no danger need be
+feared from the animal but it will improve every opportunity of
+springing unobservedly upon a heedless passer by. The total length
+of the puma is six feet and a half, of which the tail occupies a
+little over two feet. Its color is of a uniform light tawny tint,
+fading into light grey on the under parts, and the tip of the tail
+[Page 162]
+is black. The puma is one of the few members of the Cat tribe, which
+are without the usual spots or stripes so observable in the tiger and
+leopard. The lion has the same uniformity of color, and it is perhaps
+partly on that account that the panther is so often known as the
+American lion. In infancy the young pumas possess decided tiger-like
+markings, and leopard-like spots, but these disappear altogether as
+the animal increases in size. The cougar has learned by experience a
+wholesome fear of man, and as civilization has extended throughout
+our country, the animals have been forced to retire from the neighborhood
+of human habitations and hide themselves in thick, uncultivated forest
+lands.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Sometimes, however, the animal, urged by fierce hunger, will venture
+on a marauding expedition for several miles, and although not an
+object of personal dread to the inhabitants, he often becomes a
+pestilent neighbor to the farmer, committing great ravages among
+his flocks and herds, and making sad havoc in his poultry yard.
+It is not the fortune of every puma, however, to reside in the
+neighborhood of such easy prey as pigs, sheep and poultry, and the
+greater number of these animals are forced to depend for their
+[Page 163]
+subsistence on their own success in chasing or surprising the various
+animals on which they feed.
+
+When a puma is treed by hunters, it is said to show great skill
+in selecting a spot wherein it shall be best concealed from the
+gazers below, and will even draw the neighboring branches about
+its body to hide itself from the aim of the hunter's rifle. While
+thus lying upon the branches the beast is almost invisible from
+below, as its fur, when seen, harmonizes so well with the the bark
+which covers the boughs, that the one can scarcely be distinguished
+from the other.
+
+The puma loves to hide in the branches of trees, and from this
+eminence to launch itself upon the doomed animal that may pass within
+its reach. It may, therefore, be easily imagined how treacherous a
+foe the creature may be when ranging at will among the countless
+trees and jungles of our American forests.
+
+Although so stealthy and sly a creature the cougar possesses very
+little cunning and is easily trapped. The Gun trap, page 20, is
+commonly and successfully employed in South America in the capture
+of the jaguar, as our title illustration, page 15, represents, and
+it may also be used with the same success in trapping the puma.
+The Bow trap, page 23, and the dead-fall described in the early part
+of the book, will all be found to work admirably in the destruction
+of this treacherous beast.
+
+The animal may be entrapped alive, should any of our young trappers
+dare to try the experiment.
+
+There are two ways of accomplishing this. The first is by the aid
+of a huge coop of logs, as described on page 30 or 33, and the other
+by the Pit-fall, as exemplified on page 31. Huge twitch-ups may
+also be constructed, using very strong wire. The bait may consist
+of a fowl, sheep's head, or the heart of any animal. Fresh meat of
+any kind will answer the purpose, and in the case of the Pit-fall
+a live fowl is preferable to a dead one as it will attract the
+puma by its motions, or by its cackling, and thus induce him to
+_spring_ upon his prey, which will precipitate him to the bottom
+of the pit and thus effect his capture.
+
+They are commonly taken with the steel trap. The puma seldom leaves
+the vicinity of the carcass of an animal it has killed until it is
+all devoured. When such a carcass can be found the capture of the
+beast is easily effected. Set the trap, size No. 5, page 143, near
+the remains, and cover the carcass with leaves. The next visit of
+the animal will find him _more attached_ to the place than ever,--so
+much so that he will be unable to "_tear himself away_."
+
+[Page 164]
+The skin of the puma is properly removed by first cutting up the
+belly as described under the Beaver, using great care about the
+head and face. Use the hoop stretcher, page 275.
+
+
+THE CANADIAN LYNX.
+
+The lynx represents another of the Cat tribe, and as its name implies
+is a native of the regions north of the United States, although
+sometimes found in upper Maine and on the lower borders of the
+great lakes. It is commonly known throughout Canada as the Peshoo,
+or "Le Chat."
+
+Our illustration is a truthful representation of the animal. Its
+total length exceeds three feet, and its tail is a mere stub. The
+fur is thick, and the hairs are long, the general color being grey,
+sprinkled with black. The legs are generally darker than the body,
+and the ears are often edged with white. The limbs and muscles
+are very powerful, the paws are very large for the size of the
+animal, and are furnished with strong white claws, which are imbedded
+in the fur of the feet when not in use, they are shown in our
+illustration. The ears of the lynx form a distinct feature, by
+which the animal could be easily identified; they are long and
+tipped with stiff projecting hairs, giving the creature a very odd
+appearance.
+
+The peshoo can not be said to be a very dangerous animal, unless
+it is attacked, when it becomes a most ferocious antagonist. The
+writer knew of a gentleman who was pounced upon and very nearly
+killed by one of these infuriated creatures, and there are many
+like instances on record.
+
+The principal food of the lynx consists of the smaller quadrupeds,
+the American hare being its favorite article of diet. It is a good
+swimmer, and a most agile climber, chasing its prey among the branches
+with great stealth and dexterity. Like the wolf, fox, and many
+other flesh eating-animals, the lynx does not content itself with
+the creatures which fall by the stroke of its own talons, or the
+grip of its own teeth, but will follow the trail of the puma, in
+its nocturnal quest after prey, and thankfully partake of the feast
+which remains after its predecessor has satisfied its appetite.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+While running at full speed, the lynx presents a most ludicrous
+appearance, owing to its peculiar manner of leaping. It progresses
+in successive bounds, with its back slightly arched, and all the
+feet striking the ground nearly at the same instant. Powerful as
+the animal is, it is easily killed by a blow on the
+[Page 165]
+back, a slight stick being a sufficient weapon wherewith to destroy
+the creature. For this reason the "Dead-fall" is particularly adapted
+for its capture, and is very successful, as the animal possesses
+very little cunning, and will enter an enclosure of any kind without
+the slightest compunction, when a tempting bait is in view. The
+dead-fall should of course be constructed on a large scale, and
+it is a good plan to have the enclosure deep, and the bait as far
+back as will necessitate the animal being well under the suspended
+log in order to reach it. The bait may consist of a dead quadruped
+or of fresh meat of any kind.
+
+The Gun trap, page 20, and the Bow trap, page 23, will also be
+found efficient, and a very powerful twitch-up, constructed from a
+stout pole and extra strong wire will also serve to good purpose.
+The lynx is not so prolific as many of the feline tribe, the number
+of its young seldom exceeding two, and this only once a year. The
+fur of the animal is valuable for the purposes to which the feline
+skin is generally adapted, and commands a fair price in the market.
+Those who hunt or trap the lynx will do well to choose the winter
+months for the time of their operations, as during the cold season
+the animal possesses a thicker and warmer fur than it offers in
+the summer months.
+
+When the steel trap is used, it should be of size No. 4, page
+[Page 166]
+141, set at the opening of a pen of stakes, the bait being placed
+at the back of the enclosure in such a position, as that the animal
+will be obliged to step upon the pan of the trap in order to reach
+it. Any of the devices described under "Hints on Baiting" will
+be found successful.
+
+The skin of the animal may be removed as directed in the case of
+the fox, being drawn off the body whole, or it may be removed after
+the manner of the beaver, and similarly stretched.
+
+
+THE WILD CAT.
+
+This animal is one of the most wide-spread species of the Cat tribe,
+being found not only in America, but throughout nearly the whole
+of Europe as well as in Northern Asia. In many parts of the United
+States, where the wild cat was wont to flourish, it has become
+exterminated, owing to civilization and the destruction of forest
+lands.
+
+Many naturalists are of the opinion that the wild cat is the original
+progenitor of our domestic cat, but there is much difference of opinion
+in regard to the subject. Although they bear great resemblance to
+each other, there are several points of distinction between the
+two; one of the most decided differences being in the comparative
+length of the tails. The tail of the wild cat is little more than
+half the length of that of the domestic cat, and much more bushy.
+
+The color of the wild animal is much more uniform than in the great
+raft of "domestic" mongrel specimens which make night hideous with
+their discordant yowls, although we sometimes see a high bred individual
+which, if his tail was cut off at half its length, might easily
+pass as an example of the wild variety.
+
+The ground tint of the fur in the wild cat is yellowish grey,
+diversified with dark streaks over the body and limbs, much after
+the appearance of the so-called "tiger cat." A row of dark streaks
+and spots extends along the spine, and the tail is thick, short
+and bushy, tipped with black and encircled with a number of rings
+of a dark hue. In some individuals the markings are less distinct,
+and they are sometimes altogether wanting, but in the typical wild
+cat they are quite prominent. The fur is rather long and thick,
+particularly so during the winter season, and always in the colder
+northern regions.
+
+The amount of havoc which these creatures often occasion is surprising,
+and their nocturnal inroads, in poultry yards and
+[Page 167]
+sheep folds, render them most hated pests to farmers in the countries
+where these animals abound. They seem to have a special appetite
+for the _heads_ of fowls, and will often decapitate a half dozen
+in a single night, leaving the bodies in otherwise good condition
+to tell the story of their midnight murders. The home of the wild
+cat is made in some cleft of rock, or in the hollow of some aged
+tree, from which the creature issues in the dark hours and starts
+upon its marauding excursions. Its family numbers from three to
+six, and the female parent is smaller than the male, the total
+length of the latter being three feet.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Inhabiting the most lonely and inaccessible ranges of rock and
+mountain, the wild cat is seldom seen during the daytime. At night,
+like its domestic relative, he prowls far and wide, walking with
+the same stealthy step and hunting his game in the same tiger-like
+manner. He is by no means a difficult animal to trap, being easily
+deceived and taking a bait without any hesitation. The wild cat
+haunts the shores of lakes and rivers, and it is here that the
+traps may be set for them. Having caught and killed one of the
+colony, the rest of them can be easily taken if the body of the
+dead victim be left near their hunting ground and surrounded with
+the traps carefully set and concealed beneath leaves moss or the like.
+[Page 168]
+Every wild cat that is in the neighborhood will be certain to visit
+the body, and if the traps are rightly arranged many will be caught.
+The trap No. 3, page 141 is generally used. We would caution the young
+trapper in his approach to an entrapped wild cat, as the strength and
+ferocity of this animal under such circumstances, or when otherwise
+"hard pressed," is perfectly amazing. When caught in a trap they
+spring with terrible fury at any one who approaches them, not waiting
+to be assailed, and when cornered or hemmed in by a hunter they
+will often turn upon their pursuer, and springing at his face will
+attack him with most consummate fury, often inflicting serious
+and sometimes fatal wounds. When hunted and attacked by dogs, the
+wild cat is a most desperate and untiring fighter, and extremely
+difficult to kill, for which reason it has been truthfully said
+that "if a tame cat has nine lives, a _wild cat_ must have a dozen."
+
+The twitch-up, erected on a large scale, is utilized to a considerable
+extent in England in the capture of these animals; and these, together
+with steel traps and dead-falls, are about the only machines used
+for their capture. We would suggest the garrote, bow and gun trap
+also as being very effective. The bait may consist of the head
+of a fowl or a piece of rabbit or fowl flesh: or, indeed, flesh
+of almost any kind will answer, particularly of the bird kind.
+
+In skinning the wild cat the same directions given under the head
+of the Fox may be followed, or the pelt may be ripped up the belly
+and spread on a hoop stretcher, page 275.
+
+
+THE BEAR.
+
+There are several species of the Bear tribe which inhabit our continent,
+the most prominent of which are the Grizzly, and the Musquaw or
+common Black Bear. There is no other animal of this country which
+is more widely and deservedly dreaded than the grizzly bear. There
+are other creatures, the puma and wild cat, for instance, which
+are dangerous when cornered or wounded, but they are not given to
+open and deliberate attack upon human beings. The grizzly, however,
+or "Ephraim," as he is commonly termed by trappers, often displays
+a most unpleasant readiness to attack and pursue a man, even in
+the face of fire arms. In many localities, however, where hunting
+has been pursued to considerable extent, these animals have learned
+from experience a wholesome fear of man, and are not so ready to
+assume the offensive, but a "_wounded_" grizzly is one of the
+[Page 169]
+most horrible antagonists of which it is possible to conceive,
+rushing upon its victim with terrible fury, and dealing most tearing
+and heavy blows with its huge claws.
+
+In length this formidable animal often exceeds eight feet, and its
+color varies from yellowish to brownish black, and some specimens
+are found of a dirty grey color.
+
+The legs are usually darker than the rest of the body, and the
+face is generally of a lighter tint. The fore limbs of the animal
+are immensely powerful; and the foot of a full-grown individual
+is fully eighteen inches long, and armed with claws five inches
+in length. The grizzly inhabits the Rocky Mountain regions and
+northward, being found in considerable numbers in the western part
+of British America. Its hair is thick and coarse, except in the
+young animal, which possesses a beautiful fur.
+
+All other creatures seem to stand in fear of this formidable beast.
+Even the huge bison, or buffalo, of the Western Prairies sometimes
+falls a victim to the grizzly bear, and the very imprint of a bear's
+foot upon the soil is a warning which not even a hungry wolf will
+disregard.
+
+Its food consists of whatever animal it can seize, whether human
+or otherwise. He also devours green corn, nuts, and fruits of all
+kinds. In his earlier years he is a good climber, and will ascend
+a tree with an agility which is surprisingly inconsistent with
+the unwieldy proportions of his body.
+
+The average weight of a full-grown grizzly is over eight hundred
+pounds, and the girth around the body is about eight feet.
+
+The Black bear, or Musquaw, which we illustrate is common throughout
+nearly all the half settled-districts of North America. But as the
+fur and fat are articles of great commercial value, the hunters
+and trappers have exercised their craft with such skill and
+determination that the animals are gradually decreasing in numbers.
+The total length of the black bear is seldom more than six feet,
+and its fur is smooth and glossy in appearance. The color of the
+animal is rightly conveyed by its name, the cheeks only partaking
+of a reddish fawn color.
+
+It possesses little of that fierceness which characterizes the
+grizzly, being naturally a very quiet and retiring creature, keeping
+itself aloof from mankind, and never venturing near his habitations
+except when excited by the pangs of fierce hunger. When pursued
+or cornered it becomes a dangerous antagonist; and its furious
+rage often results in fearful catastrophes to both man and beast.
+Nothing but a rifle ball in the right spot will
+[Page 170]
+check the creature, when wrought up to this pitch of fury, and an
+additional wound only serves to increase its terrible ferocity.
+Bear-chasing is an extremely dangerous sport; and there are few
+bear-hunters in the land, however skilful, but what can show scars
+from the claws or teeth of some exasperated bruin.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The food of the black bear is mostly of a vegetable character,
+animal diet not being indulged in unless pressed by hunger. At
+such times it seems to especially prefer a young pig as the most
+desirable delicacy; and even full-grown hogs, it is said, are sometimes
+lifted from their pens and carried off in his deadly embrace.
+
+Honey is his especial delight; and he will climb trees with great
+agility in order to reach a nest of bees, there being few obstacles
+which his ready claws and teeth will not remove where that dainty
+is in view. He is also very fond of acorns, berries, and fruits
+of all kinds.
+
+The young of the bear are produced in January or February, and
+are from one to four in number. They are very small and covered
+with grey hair, which coat they retain until they are one year of
+age. The flesh of the bear is held in high esteem among hunters,
+and when properly prepared is greatly esteemed by epicures.
+
+The fat of the animal is much used under the title of "Bear
+[Page 171]
+grease," and is believed to be an infallible hair rejuvenator, and
+therefore becomes a valuable article of commerce.
+
+The bear generally hibernates during the winter, choosing some
+comfortable residence which it has prepared in the course of the
+summer, or perhaps betaking itself to the hollow of some tree.
+Sometimes, in case of early snow, the track of the bears may be
+distinguished, and if followed will probably lead to their dens,
+in which they can be secured with logs until it is desired to kill
+them.
+
+The black bear has a habit of treading in a beaten track, which
+is easily detected by the eye of an experienced hunter or trapper,
+and turned to good account in trapping the animal.
+
+There are various modes of accomplishing this result. The bear
+Dead-fall, described on page 17, is, perhaps, the most commonly
+used, and the Pit-fall, page 31, and "Giant Coop" trap are also
+excellent. The Gun trap and stone dead-fall, page 20, we also
+confidently recommend. When a steel trap is used it requires the
+largest size, especially made for the purpose. It should be supplied
+with a short and very strong chain firmly secured to a very heavy
+clog or grappling-iron page 147. If secured to a tree or other
+stationary object, the captured animal is likely to gnaw or tear
+his foot away, if, indeed, he does not break the trap altogether
+by the quick tightening of the chain. The clog should be only heavy
+enough to be an _impediment_, and may consist of a log or heavy
+stone. The grappling-iron, however, is more often used in connection
+with the bear trap. It is a common method in trapping the bear
+to construct a pen of upright branches, laying the trap at its
+opening, and covering it with leaves. The bait is then placed at
+the back in such a position that the animal, on reaching for it,
+will be sure to put his foot in the trap.
+
+An experienced trapper soon discovers natural openings between
+rocks or trees, which may be easily modified, and by the addition
+of a few logs so improved upon as to answer his purpose as well as
+a more elaborate enclosure, with much less trouble. Any arrangement
+whereby the bear will be obliged to tread upon the trap in order
+to secure the bait, is, of course, all that is required. The bait
+may be hung on the edge of a rock five feet from the ground, and
+the trap set on a smaller rock beneath it. He will thus be almost
+sure to rest his forefoot on the latter rock in order to reach
+the bait, and will thus be captured.
+
+Another way is to set the trap in a spring of water or swampy
+[Page 172]
+spot. Lay a lump of moss over the pan, suspending the bait beyond
+the trap. The moss will offer a natural foot-rest, and the offending
+paw will be secured.
+
+Bears possess but little cunning, and will enter any nook or corner
+without the slightest compunction when in quest of food. They are
+especially fond of sweets, and, as we have said, are strongly attracted
+by honey, being able to scent it from a great distance. On this
+account it is always used, when possible, by trappers in connection
+with other baits. These may consist of a fowl, fruit, or flesh of
+any kind, and the honey should be smeared over it. Skunk cabbage
+is said to be an excellent bait for the bear; and in all cases a
+free use of the Oil of Anise page 152, sprinkling it about the
+traps, is also advisable. Should the device fail, it is well to
+make a trail (see page 153) in several directions from the trap,
+and extending for several rods. A piece of wood, wet with Oil of
+Anise, will answer for the purpose.
+
+The general method of skinning the bear consists in first cutting
+from the front of the lower jaw down the belly to the vent, after
+which the hide may be easily removed. The hoop-stretcher page 275,
+will then come into good use in the drying and preparing of the
+skin for market.
+
+
+THE RACCOON.
+
+Although allied to the Bear family, this animal possesses much
+in common with the fox, as regards its general disposition and
+character. It has the same slyness and cunning, the same stealthy
+tread, besides an additional mischievousness and greed. It is too
+common to need any description here, being found plentifully throughout
+nearly the whole United States. The bushy tail, with its dark rings,
+will be sufficient to identify the animal in any community. Raccoon
+hunts form the subject of many very exciting and laughable stories,
+and a "coon chase," to this day is a favorite sport all over the
+country. The raccoon, or "coon," as he is popularly styled, is
+generally hunted by moonlight. An experienced dog is usually set
+on the trail and the fugitive soon seeks refuge in a tree, when
+its destruction is almost certain. Hence the term "treed coon," as
+applied to an individual when in a dangerous predicament. Besides
+possessing many of the peculiarities of the fox, the "coon" has
+the additional accomplishment of being a most agile and expert
+climber, holding so firmly to the limb by its sharp claws as to
+defy all attempts to shake it off.
+
+[Page 173]
+The home of the raccoon is generally in a hollow tree; the young
+are brought forth in May, and are from four to six in number.
+
+In captivity this animal makes a very cunning and interesting pet,
+being easily tamed to follow its master, and when dainties are in
+view becomes a most adroit pickpocket. Its food is extensive in
+variety, thus making it quite an easy matter to keep the creature
+in confinement. Nuts and fruits of all kinds it eagerly devours,
+as well as bread, cake and potatoes. It manifests no hesitation
+at a meal of rabbit, rat, squirrel, or bird, and rather likes it
+for a change, and when he can partake of a dessert of honey or
+molasses his enjoyment knows no bounds. Frogs, fresh water clams,
+green corn, and a host of other delicacies come within the range
+of his diet, and he may sometimes be seen digging from the sand
+the eggs of the soft-shelled turtle, which he greedily sucks. We
+cordially recommend the coon as a pet. He becomes very docile,
+and is full of cunning ways, and if the young ones can be traced
+to their hiding-place in some hollow tree, and secured, if not
+_too_ young, we could warrant our readers a great deal of real
+sport and pleasure in rearing the little animals and watching their
+ways.
+
+In cold climates the raccoon lies dormant in the winter, only venturing
+out on occasional mild days; but in the Southern States he is active
+throughout the year, prowling about by day and by night in search
+of his food, inserting his little sharp nose into every corner,
+and feeling with his slender paws between stones for spiders and
+bugs of all kinds. He spies the innocent frog with his head just
+out of the water, and pouncing upon him, he despatches him without
+a moment's warning. There seems to be no limits to his rapacity, for
+he is always eating and always hungry. The print of the raccoon's
+paw in the mud or snow is easily recognized, much resembling the
+impression made by the foot of a babe.
+
+The best season for trapping the coon is late in the fall, winter,
+and early spring, or from and between the months of October and
+April. During this time the pelts are in excellent condition. Early
+in the spring when the snow is disappearing, the coons come out
+of their hiding places to start on their foraging tours; and at
+this time are particularly susceptible to a tempting bait, and
+they may be successfully trapped in the following manner:--
+
+Take a steel trap and set it on the edge of some pool, or stream
+where the coons are known to frequent: let it be an inch
+[Page 174]
+or so under the water, and carefully chained to a clog. The bait
+may consist of a fish, frog, or head of a fowl, scented with Oil
+of Anise, and suspended over the traps about two feet higher, by
+the aid of a sapling secured in the ground. (See title page at
+the head of this section.) The object of this is to induce the
+animal to jump for it, when he will land with his foot in the trap.
+Another method is to construct a V shaped pen set the trap near
+the entrance, and, fastening the bait in the angle, cover the trap
+loosely with leaves, and scent the bait as before with the anise.
+The trap should be at such a distance from the bait that the animal,
+in order to reach it, will be obliged to tread upon the pan, which
+he will be sure to do, his greed overcoming his discretion. Any
+arrangement whereby the animal will be obliged to tread upon the
+trap in order to reach the bait will be successful.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The beaten track of the coons may often be discovered in soft ground,
+and a trap carefully concealed therein will soon secure its victim.
+Another method is to set the trap near the coon tracks, spreading a
+few drops of anise on the pan and covering the whole with leaves.
+The coon, attracted by the scent, will feel around in the leaves for
+[Page 175]
+the bait, and thus "put his foot in it."
+
+In the South they construct a coon trap from a hollow log, either
+having the ends supplied with lids, which fall just like the Rat
+trap page 100 as the animal passes through, or else constructed
+with nooses, similar to the Box-snare, page 56. Box traps of a
+style similar to that described on page 103 are also excellent, and
+a strong twitch-up, of any of the various kinds we have described,
+will be found to work admirably.
+
+Many of the suggestions in trapping the mink, page 190, will be
+found equally, serviceable in regard to the coon.
+
+The skin of this animal should be removed as recommended for the
+fox, and similarly stretched. It may also be skinned by first ripping
+up the belly, and spread on a hoop stretcher. page 275.
+
+
+THE BADGER.
+
+The American Badger is mostly confined to the Northwestern parts
+of the United States, and it is a curious little animal. In size
+its body is slightly smaller than the fox. Its general color is
+grey, approaching to black on the head and legs. There is a white
+streak extending from the tip of the animal's long nose over the
+top of the head and fading off near the shoulders. The cheeks are
+also white, and a broad and definitely marked black line extends
+from the snout back around the eyes ending at the neck. The grey
+of this animal is produced from the mixture of the varied tints
+of its fur, each hair presenting a succession of shades. At the
+root it is of a deep grey; this fades into a tawny yellow, and
+is followed by a black, the hair being finally tipped with white.
+The fur is much used in the manufacture of fine paint brushes, a
+good "Badger blender" being a most useful accessory in the painter's
+art. The badger is slow and clumsy in its actions, except when
+engaged in digging, his capacities in this direction being so great
+as to enable him to sink himself into the ground with marvellous
+rapidity. The nest of the animal is made in the burrow, and the
+young are three or four in number. His diet is as variable and
+extensive as that of the coon, and consists of anything in any
+way eatable. Snails, worms, rats, mice and moles, seem to have
+a particular attraction for him; and he seems to take especial
+delight in unearthing the stores of the wild bees, devouring honey,
+wax and grubs together, and caring as little for the stings of the
+[Page 176]
+angry bees as he would of the bills of so many mosquitoes, the thick
+coating of fur forming a perfect protection against his winged
+antagonists. The badger is very susceptible to human influence, and
+can be effectually tamed with but little trouble. Although his general
+appearance would not indicate it, he is a sly and cunning animal, and
+not easily captured in a trap of any kind. He has been known to set
+at defiance all the traps that were set for him, and to devour
+the baits without suffering for his audacity. He will sometimes
+overturn a trap and spring it from the under side, before attempting
+to remove the bait. Although not quite as crafty as the fox, it is
+necessary to use much of the same caution in trapping the badger,
+as a bare trap seldom wins more than a look of contempt from the
+wary animal.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The usual mode of catching the creature is to set the trap size
+No. 3 at the mouth of its burrow, carefully covering it with loose
+earth and securing it by a chain to a stake. Any of the methods
+used in trapping the fox will also be found to work admirably.
+The dead-fall or garrote will also do good service. Bait with a
+rat, mouse, or with whatever else the animal is especially fond,
+and scent with Oil of Anise or Musk. In early spring, while the
+ground is still hard, badgers are easily captured by flooding their
+burrows. After being satisfied that the animal is in its hole,
+proceed to pour in pailful after pailful of water at the entrance.
+[Page 177]
+He will not long be able to stand this sort of thing, and he may
+be secured as he makes his exit at the opening of the burrow.
+
+The skin should be removed whole, as in the case of the fox, or
+as described for the beaver, and stretched as therein indicated.
+
+
+THE BEAVER.
+
+The Beaver of North America has now a world-wide reputation for
+its wonderful instinct and sagacity. The general appearance of
+this animal is that of a very large muskrat with a broad flattened
+tail, and the habits of both these animals are in many respects
+alike. The beaver is an amphibious creature and social in its habits
+of living, large numbers congregating together and forming little
+villages, and erecting their dome-like huts like little Esquimaux.
+The muskrat has this same propensity, but the habitation of the
+beaver is on a much more extensive scale. These huts or "Beaver
+lodges," are generally made in rivers and brooks; although sometimes
+in lakes or large ponds. They are chiefly composed of branches,
+moss, grass and mud, and are large enough to accommodate a family
+of five or six. The form of the "lodges" is dome-like, and it varies
+considerably in size. The foundation is made on the bottom of the
+river, and the hut is built up like a mound, often twenty feet
+in diameter and projecting several feet above the surface of the
+water. The walls of this structure are often five or six feet thick,
+and the roofs are all finished off with a thick layer of mud laid on
+with marvellous smoothness. These huts form the winter habitations
+of the beavers, and as this compost of mud, grass and branches
+becomes congealed into a solid mass by the severe frosts of our
+northern winter, it can easily be seen that they afford a safe
+shelter against any intruder and particularly the wolverine, which
+is a most deadly enemy to the beaver. So hard does this frozen mass
+become as to defy even the edges of iron tools, and the breaking
+open of the "Beaver houses" is at no time an easy task. Beavers
+work almost entirely in the dark; and a pond which is calm and
+placid in the day time will be found in the night to be full of
+life and motion, and the squealing and splashing in the water will
+bear evidence of their industry. Lest the beavers should not have
+a sufficient depth of water at all seasons, they are in the habit
+of constructing veritable dams to ensure that result. These dams
+display a wonderful amount of reason and skill, and, together with
+the huts, have won for the beaver a reputation
+[Page 178]
+for engineering skill which the creature truly deserves. In constructing
+these ingenious dams the beavers, by the aid of their powerful teeth,
+gnaw down trees sometimes of large size, and after cutting them into
+smaller pieces float them on the water to the spot selected for
+the embankment. In swift streams this embankment is built so as
+to arch against the current, thus securing additional strength,
+and evincing an instinct on the part of the animal which amounts
+almost to reason. In cutting down the trees the beaver gnaws a
+circular cut around the trunk, cutting deepest on the side toward
+the water, thus causing the trunk to fall into the stream. The
+first step in constructing the embankment is to lay the logs down
+cautiously in the required line of the dam, afterwards weighting
+them with heavy stones, which the beavers by their united efforts
+roll upon them. The foundation of the embankment is often ten feet
+in width, and is built up by continued heaping of branches, stones
+and mud, until it forms a barrier of immense strength and resisting
+power. In many cases, through a lapse of years, and through a
+[Page 179]
+consequent accumulation of floating leaves, twigs, and seeds of plants,
+these embankments become thickly covered with vegetation, and, in many
+cases in the Hudson Bay country, have even been known to nurture trees
+of considerable dimensions. The broad flat tail of the animal serves a
+most excellent purpose, in carrying the mud to the dams or huts, and
+in matting and smoothing it into a solidity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The entrances to the various huts are all beneath the water, and
+they all open into one common ditch, which is purposely dug in
+the bed of the river, and is too deep to be entirely frozen. In
+the summer time the huts are vacated, and the beavers make their
+abode in burrows on the banks of the stream, which serve as a secure
+retreat at all times, and particularly in winter when their houses
+are molested. The Indians of the Northwest are aware of this fact,
+and turn it to good account in the capture of the animals.
+
+When the beaver's village is in a small creek, or brook, it is
+first necessary to stake the water across both above and below
+the huts. The next thing is to ascertain the exact spots of the
+burrows in the banks, and when we consider the river is covered
+with ice, this seems a rather difficult problem. But this is where
+the Indian shows his skill. He starts upon the ice, provided with
+an ice chisel secured to a long, stout handle. With this he strikes
+upon the ice, following the edge of the stream. The sound of the
+blow determines to his practiced ear the direct spot opposite the
+opening of the burrows, and at this point a hole a foot in diameter
+is made through the ice. Following the edge of the bank he continues
+his search, and in like manner cuts the holes through the ice until
+all the retreats are discovered. While the expert Indians are thus
+engaged, the "squaws" are occupied in the more laborious work of
+breaking open the houses, and the beavers, alarmed at the invasion of
+their sanctums, make for the banks, and the ready huntsmen stationed
+at the various holes, watch for their victims beneath the openings,
+until a violent motion or discoloration of the water betrays their
+passage beneath. The entrance to the holes in the bank are then
+instantly closed with stakes and the beaver is made prisoner in
+his burrow. When the depth of the burrow will admit, the arm of
+the hunter is introduced, and the animal pulled out, but otherwise
+a long hook lashed to a pole is employed for this purpose. Scores
+of beavers are sometimes taken in this way in a few hours. Spearing
+is also often successfully resorted to, and when the ice is thin
+[Page 180]
+and transparent the beavers may be clearly observed as they come
+to the surface, beneath the ice, for air.
+
+The general color of the animal is reddish brown, this tint being
+imparted principally by the long hairs of the fur. There is an
+inner and softer down of a grey color, which lies next the skin,
+and which is the valuable growth of the fur. The total length of
+the animal is about three feet and a half, the flat, paddle-shaped,
+scale-covered tail being about a foot in length.
+
+The young are brought forth in April or May, from three to seven
+at a litter, and take to the water when a month old. The first
+four years in the beaver's life is spent under the "maternal roof,"
+after which period they shift for themselves. To trap the beaver
+successfully, requires the utmost caution, as the senses of the
+animal are so keen, and he is so sagacious withal, that he will detect
+the recent presence of the trapper from the slightest evidences.
+The traps should be washed clean and soaked in ley, before using,
+and thereafter handled with gloves, as a mere touch of the finger
+will leave a scent which the acute sense of the beaver will easily
+perceive. All footprints should be carefully obliterated by throwing
+water upon them, and some trappers say that the mere act of spitting
+on the ground in the neighborhood of the traps has been known to
+thwart success.
+
+Almost the only bait used in trapping the beaver is the preparation
+called "barkstone" by the trappers, or "castoreum" in commerce.
+This substance is fully described on page 150 under the head of
+"Scent Baits."
+
+To the barkstone the trapper is mostly indebted for his success,
+and the effect of its odor on the beaver is something surprising.
+Our best trappers inform us that these animals will scent this
+odor for a great distance, and will fairly "squeal with delight,"
+not being easy until the savory bait is discovered, which almost
+invariably results in capture.
+
+Taking advantage of this curious propensity, the trapper always
+carries a supply of castoreum in a closed vessel.
+
+There are various ways of trapping the beaver, of which we shall
+present the best. An examination of the river bank will easily
+disclose the feeding place of the beavers, as evinced by the absence
+of the bark on the branches and trunks of trees. At this spot,
+in about four inches of water, set your trap, which should be a
+Newhouse No. 4. Weight the end of the chain with a stone as large
+as your head, and, if possible, rest it on the edge of some rock
+projecting into deep water, having a smaller rope or chain leading
+from the stone to the shore. A small twig, the size of your little
+[Page 181]
+finger, should then be stripped of its bark, and after chewing or
+mashing one end, it should be dipped in the castoreum. Insert this
+stick in the mud, between the jaws of the trap, letting it project
+about six inches above the water. The beaver is soon attracted by the
+odor of the bait, and in reaching for it, his foot is caught in the
+trap. In his fright he will immediately jump for deep water, thus
+dislodging the stone, which will sink him to the bottom, and thus
+drown him. The smaller chain or rope will serve as a guide to the
+trap, and the victim may be drawn to the surface. Another plan is
+to set the trap in about a foot of water, chaining it fast to a stout
+pole securely driven in the mud further out in the stream, and
+near deep water. Bait as before. The trap being thus fastened will
+prevent the efforts of the animal to drag it ashore, where he would
+be certain to amputate his leg and walk off. There is another method,
+which is said to work excellently. The chain is secured to a very
+heavy stone, and sunk in deep water, and the trap set and baited
+near shore, in about a foot of water. This accomplishes the same
+purpose as the pole first described, and is even surer, as the animal
+will sometimes use his teeth in severing the wood, and thereby make
+his escape. In the case of the stone a duplicate rope or chain
+will be required to lift it in case of capture.
+
+The trap may be set at the entrance to the holes in the banks,
+two or three inches under water, implanting the stick with the
+castoreum bait directly over the pan, a few inches above the water.
+If the water should be deep near this spot, it is an excellent plan
+to weight the end of the chain with a large stone with a "leader"
+from it also, as already described. Insert two or three sticks in
+the bank beneath the water, and rest the stone upon them.
+
+When the beaver is caught he will turn a somersault into deep water,
+at the same time dislodging the stone, which will sink him. No sooner
+is a break ascertained in the dam than all the beavers unite in
+fixing it, and this peculiarity of habit may be turned to account in
+trapping them. Make a slight break in the dam, five inches across,
+beneath the water. On the under side of the break, and of course,
+on the inside of the dam, the trap should be set. The beavers will
+soon discover the leak and the capture of at least _one_ is certain.
+The trap may be also set where the beavers are wont to crawl on
+shore, being placed several inches below the water in such a position
+that they will step on it when in the act of ascending the banks.
+Where the weighted stone is not used, the sliding pole page 145
+[Page 182]
+should always be employed, as it is necessary to drown the animal,
+to prevent amputation and escape.
+
+The food of the beaver consists chiefly of the bark of various
+trees, together with aquatic plants. The fur is valuable only in
+the late fall, winter, and early spring.
+
+In skinning the beaver, a slit is made from the under jaw to the
+vent, after which it is easily removed. It should be tacked to a flat
+board, fur side in, or stretched by means of a hoop, as described
+on page 275.
+
+
+THE MUSKRAT.
+
+The muskrat, or musquash, is very much like a beaver on a small
+scale, and is so well-known throughout the United States that a
+detailed description or illustration will hardly be necessary.
+Reduce the size of the beaver to one foot in length, and add a
+long flattened tail, instead of the spatula-shaped appendage of
+this animal, and we will have a pretty good specimen of a muskrat.
+The body has that same thick-set appearance, and the gnawing teeth
+are very large and powerful. Like the beaver, the muskrat builds
+its dome-like huts in ponds or swamps, which it frequents; and
+although not as large as those of the beaver they are constructed
+in the same manner and of the same materials. Muskrats are mostly
+nocturnal in their habits; they are tireless swimmers, and in the
+winter travel great distances beneath the ice; all of which
+peculiarities are like the beaver. Their food is quite variable,
+consisting of grass and roots, oats, corn and other grain, apples
+and nuts, and even tomatoes, turnips, carrots, mussels and clams,
+whenever these can be found.
+
+The muskrat is a native of all of the Eastern, Western, and Middle
+States and also the Southern States, with the exception of Georgia,
+Alabama and Florida. They are also found in Canada and the Arctic
+regions, and in the North-west. They are hunted and captured as
+a means of support to the native tribes of Indians who sell or
+trade the furs to Eastern dealers. The fur somewhat resembles that
+of the mink in texture, although not as fine, and the color varies
+from dark brown above to grey beneath. It is in its best condition
+during the winter, especially in March. The animal possesses a
+musky smell, from which it takes its name. It is said by many that
+the flesh of the animal, when carefully prepared, becomes quite
+palatable food.
+
+Their houses are so nearly like those of the beaver that a
+[Page 183]
+second description is scarcely necessary. They are often five or
+six feet in height, and the entrances are all under water. Dozens
+of these huts may often be seen in ponds and marshes, and sometimes
+they exist in such numbers as to give the appearance of a veritable
+Esquimaux village. These houses are used only in the winter season.
+In general the muskrat lives in burrows, which it excavates in the
+banks of ponds or streams, bringing forth its young, from three
+to nine in number, in the nest, which it forms at the end of the
+tunnel. They are very prolific, producing three litters a year. Like
+the beaver, otter and mink, the muskrat can travel long distances
+under the ice with only one supply of fresh air, and its method
+is certainly very interesting. Before plunging beneath the ice
+the animal fills its lungs with air, and when under the water it
+swims until it can no longer hold its breath. It then rises up
+beneath the ice, empties its lungs, the air remaining in bubbles
+beneath the ice. In a short time this air absorbs sufficient oxygen
+from the water and ice as to be life-sustaining, when the animal
+again inhales it and proceeds on its journey. It is by this means
+that the beaver, muskrat and mink are enabled to travel such great
+distances beneath unbroken ice, and it is certainly a very novel
+and interesting method. Where the ice is thin and transparent these
+animals are sometimes captured through the means of this habit.
+A heavy stroke on the frozen hut will drive its occupants to the
+water, and their course may easily be followed through the ice.
+If one of them is tracked, he will presently be seen to stop at
+the surface of the water for fresh oxygen, as already described.
+The bubbles will soon appear, and if the hunter immediately strikes
+with an axe or heavy stick directly on the spot, the submerged
+animal will be literally driven away from its breath, and will
+of course drown in a very few minutes. A short search will soon
+reveal the dead creature, after which he may be taken out through
+a hole cut in the ice. Otter and mink are sometimes taken in the
+same way. In many localities great numbers of muskrats are also
+captured by spearing, either through the ice or through the walls
+of their houses. In the latter case, two are often taken at once.
+This method is quite uncertain and unreliable, as the walls of
+the hut are often so firmly frozen as to defy the thrust of the
+hardest steel, and a fruitless attempt will drive the inmates from
+their house at once. The spear generally used consists of a single
+shaft of steel about eighteen inches in length and half an inch
+in diameter, barbed at the point, and is feruled to a
+[Page 184]
+solid handle five feet long. In spearing through the hut the south
+side is generally selected, as being more exposed to the heat of
+the sun. Great caution is necessary, as the slightest noise will
+drive out the inmates. The spear should be thrust in a slanting
+direction, a few inches above the surface of the ice. Where many
+houses exist it is well to destroy all but one. Into this the whole
+tribe will centre, and by successive spearing they may all be captured.
+When the spear has been thrust into the house, it must be thus
+left until a hole is cut with a hatchet, through which to remove
+the game. Spearing through the ice is a better method, but for
+general service there is no means of capture more desirable than
+by trapping. The steel trap No. 1 or 2 is the size particularly
+adapted for the muskrat, and may be set in various ways. The most
+common method is to set the trap under two inches of water on the
+projecting logs or stones on the border of the streams where the
+"signs" of the animal indicate its recent presence. The trap should
+of course be secured by a chain, ringed to a sliding pole, page
+145, which will lead the animal into deep water when captured,
+and thus effect its speedy death by drowning. In this case bait is
+not necessary. If their feeding grounds can be discovered, or if
+their tracks indicate any particular spot where they crawl ashore
+at the water's edge, at this point a trap may be set with good
+success. In this instance it is well also to set it under water,
+baiting with a piece of turnip, parsnip, apple, or the like, suspended
+a few inches above the pan of the trap. Late in the fall, when
+collecting their building material, they often form large beds of
+dried grasses and sticks, and a trap set in these beds and covered
+with some loose substance, such as grass, chaff, or the like, will
+often secure the animal. The trap, in this case should be attached
+to a spring-pole, page 145 as the muskrat is a wonderful adept
+at self-amputation, when its escape depends upon it.
+
+The trap is sometimes set in the interior of the house, and may
+be accomplished by first breaking an opening in the wall, near
+the ice, the trap being inserted and set, afterwards covering it
+with the loose grass and moss, which is generally abundant in the
+interior of these huts. When this is done, the chain should be
+secured to a stick on the outside, and the hole repaired. No spring
+or sliding-pole is necessary in this method, as the animal when
+caught will immediately run for the water, and the weight of the
+trap will sink and drown its prisoner.
+
+Scent baits are sometimes used in trapping the muskrat, the
+[Page 185]
+musk taken from the female animal being particularly valued. The
+Oils of Rhodium and Amber, page 151 are also successfully employed
+by many trappers; a few drops of either in the neighborhood of
+the trap, or directly upon it, being sufficient.
+
+Although steel traps are most generally used, there are several
+other devices which are equally if not even _more_ desirable. Chief
+among these is the barrel trap, commonly and successfully employed
+in many parts of New England, where these animals often exist in
+such numbers as to render their destruction a matter of necessity.
+
+The above trap consists merely of an old barrel, sunk to its upper
+edge in the river bank, and about half filled with water. On the
+surface of the water a few light pieces of wood are floated, over
+which the bait, consisting of carrot, sweet apple, or turnip, is
+placed. A trail is then made by dragging a piece of scented meat
+from the barrel in various directions, and a few pieces of the
+bait are also strewn along these trails. The muskrats will thus
+be led to the barrel, and will be certain to jump in after the
+tempting morsels, and their escape is impossible. No less than
+a dozen muskrats have been thus caught in a single barrer in one
+night, and a few of these traps have been known almost to exterminate
+the musquashes in localities where they had previously existed in
+such numbers as to become a pestilence to the neighborhood.
+
+A barrel trap constructed on the principle described on page 131
+is also equally effective, although rather more complicated in
+construction. The Twitch-up is often used, and possesses the advantage
+of a trap and spring-pole combined. Box traps, page 103, are also
+to be recommended.
+
+The skin of the muskrat may be removed in the same manner as hereinafter
+described for the otter, with the exception of the tail. This is
+considered the best method. It may also be taken off flat by ripping
+from the under jaw to the vent, and peeling around the eyes and
+mouth, letting the skin of the legs come off whole, without cutting.
+
+Another common method consists in cutting off the feet, and then
+ripping with a knife from the front of the lower jaw down the neck
+and belly to a point a little beyond the forelegs. The lips, eyes, and
+ears are then carefully skinned, and the hide is stripped backwards
+from the body. In the latter method the bow-stretcher, page 274,
+is used.
+
+
+[Page 186]
+THE OTTER.
+
+The fur of this animal is of such exquisite softness and beauty
+as to be in great demand for commercial purposes, bringing a very
+high price in the fur market.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The otter cannot be said to be a common animal, although it is
+found throughout the United States and Canada, being rather more
+plentiful in the cold northern localities than in the southern
+latitudes. It is an amphibious animal, and can remain for a long
+time beneath the water. In size it is larger than a cat, and it
+possesses a tapering tail some eighteen inches in length. Its fur
+is of a rich brown color, and the hair is of two kinds, the one a
+close, fine, and exquisitely soft down, which lies next the skin,
+and which serves to protect the animal from the extremes of heat and
+cold, and the other composed of long shining coarser hairs, which
+permit the animal to glide easily through the water. In producing
+the beautiful otter furs of fashion these long hairs are plucked
+out, leaving only the softer down next the hide. The food of the
+otter mostly consists of fish, for the pursuit of which he has
+been admirably endowed by nature. His body is lithe and supple,
+and his feet are furnished with a broad web, which connects the
+toes, and is of infinite service in propelling the animal through
+[Page 187]
+the water when in search of his finny prey. His long, broad and flat
+tail serves as a most effectual rudder, and the joints of his powerful
+legs are so flexible as to permit of their being turned in almost any
+direction.
+
+The habitation of the otter is made in the banks of the river which
+it frequents, or sometimes in a hollow log or crevice beneath rocks.
+The animal generally prefers to adopt and occupy a natural hollow
+or deserted excavation, rather than to dig a burrow for itself.
+The nest is composed of dry rushes, grasses and sticks, and the
+young, three or four in number, are produced in early spring.
+
+The _track_ which the otter makes in the mud or snow is easily
+distinguished from that of any other animal, on account of the
+"seal" or impression which is made by a certain ball on the sole of
+the foot. Otter hunting is a favorite sport in England, and indeed
+in the northern parts of our own country. Hounds are used to pursue
+the animal, and on account of the powerfully scented secretion with
+which the creature is furnished by nature, its track is readily
+followed. When attacked, the otter is a fierce and terrible fighter,
+biting and snapping with most deadly energy and never yielding as
+long as life remains in the body. The bite of an angry otter is
+extremely severe, and for this reason we would caution the amateur
+trapper on handling the animal should one be taken alive.
+
+Although so fierce and savage when attacked, the otter is easily
+tamed when taken young, and can be taught to catch fish for the
+service of its master, rather than for the gratification of its
+own palate.
+
+In the winter when the snow is on the ground, the otter navigates
+by sliding, and when on the ice he may often be seen to run a few
+steps and then throw himself on his belly and slide the distance
+of several feet. They are very fond of playing in the snow, and
+make most glorious use of any steep snow-covered bank, sloping
+toward the river. Ascending to the top of such an incline they
+throw themselves on the slippery surface and thus slide swiftly
+into the water. This pastime is often continued for hours, and
+is taken advantage of in trapping the playful creatures. A short
+search will reveal the place where they crawl from the water on
+to the bank, and at this spot, which will generally be shallow,
+a steel trap should be set on the bed of the river, about four
+inches under water. The trap should be secured by a stout chain,
+the latter being ringed to a sliding pole, page 145, which will
+lead the animal when caught into deep
+[Page 188]
+water. If deep water is not near at hand, the spring pole, page
+144, may be used, the object of either being to prevent the animal
+from gnawing off its leg and thus making its escape.
+
+The trap may also be placed at the top or the slide, two or three
+feet back of the slope, a place being hollowed out to receive it
+and the whole covered with snow. To make success more certain a
+log may be laid on each side of the trap, thus forming an avenue
+in which the animal will be sure to run before throwing itself on
+the slope. Care should be taken to handle nothing with the bare
+hands, as the otter is very keen scented and shy. Anoint the trap
+with a few drops of fish oil or otter musk, see page 151. If none
+of these are handy, ordinary musk will answer very well.
+
+The trap may also be set and weighted with a heavy stone and chain,
+as described for trapping the beaver. Another method still is to
+find some log in the stream having one end projecting above water.
+Sprinkle some musk on this projecting end and set the trap on the
+log in three or four inches of water, securing it firmly by a chain,
+also beneath the water.
+
+A rock which projects over the stream may also be utilized in the
+same way as seen in the page title at the opening of this section.
+Smear the musk on the edge which juts into the water, and secure
+the trap by the chain as before. When the animal is caught he will
+fall or jump into the water, and the weight of the trap and chain
+will sink him. In every case it is necessary to obliterate every
+sign of human presence by throwing water over every foot print, and
+over everything with which the naked hands have come in contact.
+Where the traps are thus set in the water it should be done while
+wading or in a boat. In the winter when the ponds and rivers are
+frozen over the otters make holes through the ice at which they
+come up to devour their prey. Where the water is a foot deep beneath
+any of these holes the trap may be set in the bottom, the chain
+being secured to a heavy stone. When the otter endeavors to emerge
+from the hole he will press his foot on the trap and will thus
+be caught. If the water is deep beneath the hole the trap may be
+baited with a small fish attached to the pan, and then carefully
+lowered with its chain and stone to the bottom. For this purpose
+the Newhouse, No. 3, is best adapted, as the otter is in this case
+caught by the head.
+
+The beaten track of the animal may often be discovered in the snow
+in the winter time, and a trap carefully sunk in such a furrow
+and covered so as to resemble its surroundings, will be likely
+to secure the first otter that endeavors to pass over it. A trap
+set at the mouth of the otter's burrow and carefully covered
+[Page 189]
+is also often successful, using the sliding pole, page 145, to lead
+him into deep water.
+
+Every trapper has his pet theories and methods of trapping all
+the different animals, and the otter has its full share. We have
+given several of the _best_ methods; and anyone of them will secure
+the desired result of capture, and all of them have stood the test
+of time and experience.
+
+The skin of the otter should be removed whole, and the operation
+may be performed in the following manner: Slit down the hind legs
+to the vent; cut the skin loose around the vent, and slit up the
+entire length of the tail, freeing it from the bone. With the aid
+of the knife the skin should now be peeled off, drawing it backward
+and carefully cutting around the mouth and eyes before taking it
+from the head.
+
+With the fur thus inside, the skin is ready for the stretcher as
+described on page 273, and the tail should be spread out and tacked
+around the edges.
+
+
+THE MINK.
+
+This animal, as will be seen by our illustration, has a long, slender
+body, something like the weasel, to which scientific family it
+belongs. It inhabits the greater part of North America, and is also
+found abundantly in Northern Europe. The color of its fur varies
+considerably in different individuals, the general tint being a rich,
+dark brown. The chin and throat are light colored, sometimes white,
+and this spot varies considerably in size in different individuals,
+sometimes extending down on the throat to a considerable distance.
+The total length of the animal is from thirteen to sixteen inches,
+its size being variable.
+
+The fur of the mink is excellent in quality, and has for many years
+been one of the "fancy furs" of fashion, a good prime skin often
+bringing from ten to twelve dollars. The introduction of the fur
+seal, however, and the universal demand for this as well as otter
+fur, has somewhat thrown the mink into comparative shade, although
+extra fine skins will still command high prices.
+
+The mink is an aquatic animal, inhabiting small rivers and streams,
+and living somewhat after the manner of the otter. It has a most
+wide range of diet, and will eat almost anything which is at all
+eatable. Fishes, frogs, and muskrats are his especial delight,
+and he will occasionally succeed in pouncing upon a snipe or wild
+duck, which he will greedily devour. Crawfish,
+[Page 190]
+snails, and water insects of all kinds also come within the
+range of his diet, and he sometimes makes a stray visit to some
+neighboring poultry yard to satisfy the craving of his abnormal
+hunger. A meal off from his own offspring often answers the same
+purpose; and a young chicken in the egg he considers the ne plus
+ultra of delicacies. The voracity of this animal is its leading
+characteristic, and is so largely in excess of its cunning or sagacity
+that it will often run headlong into a naked trap. Its sense of
+smell is exceedingly well developed, and through this faculty it
+is often enabled to track its prey with ease and certainty. The
+mink lives in burrows, in steep banks, or between rocks or the
+roots of trees, and the young, five or six in number, are brought
+forth in May.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The chief occupation of the mink consists in perpetual search for
+something to eat, and, when so engaged, he may be seen running
+along the bank of the stream, peering into every nook and corner,
+and literally "leaving no stone unturned" in its eager search.
+Taking advantage of this habit, it becomes an easy matter to trap
+the greedy animal. Set your trap, a Newhouse No. 2, in an inch
+of water near the edge of the stream, and directly in front of
+a steep bank or rock, on which you can place your bait. The bait
+may be a frog, fish, or head of a
+[Page 191]
+bird, suspended about eighteen inches above the water, and should
+be so situated that in order to reach it, the mink will be obliged
+to tread upon the trap. The trap may also be set in the water and
+the bait suspended eighteen inches above it, by the aid of a switch
+planted in the mud near the trap. It is a good plan to scent the
+bait with an equal mixture of sweet oil and peppermint, with a
+little honey added. If there is deep water near, the sliding pole,
+page 145, should be used, and if not, the "spring pole" in every
+case, in order to prevent the captured mink from becoming a prey to
+larger animals, and also to guard against his escape by amputation,
+which he would otherwise most certainly accomplish.
+
+The trap may be set on the land, near the water's edge, baiting
+as just described, and lightly covered with leaves or dirt. Any
+arrangement of the trap whereby the animal is obliged to tread
+upon it in order to secure the bait, will be found effectual.
+
+The trap may be set at the foot of a tree, and the bait fastened
+to the trunk, eighteen inches above it. A pen, such as is described
+on page 144, may be constructed, and the trap and bait arranged as
+there directed. Minks have their regular beaten paths, and often
+visit certain hollow logs in their runways. In these logs they
+leave unmistakable signs of their presence, and a trap set in such
+a place is sure of success.
+
+Some trappers set a number of traps along the stream at intervals
+of several rods, connecting them by a trail, see page 153, the mink
+being thus led directly and almost certainly to his destruction.
+This trail is made by smearing a piece of wood with the "medicine"
+described at page 153, and dragging it on the line of the traps.
+Any mink which crosses this trail will follow it to the first trap,
+when he will, in all probability, be captured. A dead muskrat, crow,
+fish, or a piece of fresh meat dragged along the line answers the
+same purpose. The beaten tracks of the mink may often be discovered,
+and a trap set in such a track and covered with leaves, dirt or the
+like, will often be successful.
+
+Minks may also be easily caught in the dead-fall. Garrote trap
+or a twitch-up, baiting with fish, muskrat, flesh, or the head
+of a bird, of which the animal is especially fond. A liberal use
+of the "medicine" is also desirable.
+
+The fur of the mink is in its best condition in the late autumn,
+winter, and early spring, and the animal should be skinned as described
+for the fox.
+
+
+[Page 192]
+THE PINE MARTEN.
+
+This animal belongs to the tribe of "weasels," and is closely allied
+to the celebrated sable, which it greatly resembles. The pine marten
+is so called because it inhabits the northern climates where pine
+forests abound, and spends much of its life in the trees in search
+of its prey. Its general appearance is truly represented in our
+illustration, its fur being of a rich brown color, with a lighter
+or white patch on the throat. Its total length, including the tail,
+is about twenty-eight or thirty inches, of which the tail represents
+ten inches. It is mostly confined to the forests in the far north,
+and is comparatively rare further south than the latitude of Maine
+and the lakes. The fur of the pine marten is of considerable value,
+particularly if the animal be killed in the winter. A really fine
+skin is but little inferior to the celebrated sable, and is hardly
+distinguishable from it. The hair is long and glossy, and the under
+fur is beautifully soft and very thick. The dark colored skins are
+the most valuable. Although so nearly like the sable, the same
+comparison does not exist in regard to their proportionate market
+values, the marten fur bringing a much lower price.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The marten is a shy and wary animal, withdrawing itself as far
+as possible from the sight of man, and building its habitation in
+the tops of trees, often seizing on the ready nest of some squirrel
+or bird, and adapting it to its purposes.
+
+[Page 193]
+It is a night prowler, and in the dark hours it traverses the trunks
+and branches of the trees in search of its prey. It moves with
+wonderful stealth and activity, and is enabled by its rapid and
+silent approach to steal unnoticed on many an unfortunate bird
+or squirrel, seizing it in its deadly grip before the startled
+creature can think to escape. Coming across a bird's nest, it makes
+sad havoc with the eggs or young, often adding the parent bird
+to his list of victims. Rabbits, partridges, and mice also fall
+into the marten's "bill of fare," and the list is often further
+increased by a visit to a poultry yard, when the animal murders
+and eats all it can and kills the rest for sport. In pouncing upon
+its prey, the marten invariably seizes its victim by the throat,
+often dispatching the luckless creature with a single bite.
+
+The martens generally are said to be very susceptible to human
+influence when taken young, and are very lively in a state of
+domestication. They are among the most graceful of animals, and
+in place of the disagreeable scent which renders many of their
+tribe offensive, this creature possesses an odor which is quite
+agreeable, and for this reason is often called the sweet marten
+in contradistinction to the foul marten or pole cat of Britain,
+which is like unto our skunk in the disgusting stench which it
+exhales.
+
+The dead-fall and Garrote traps are very successful in trapping
+the martin. They should be set several rods apart, in the forest
+or on the banks of streams, and a trail established by dragging
+a dead or roasted crow, entrails of a bird, or fresh meat from
+one trap to another, as described in relation to the mink, page
+190. The twitch-up may also be used, and possesses the additional
+advantage of acting as a spring pole, thus holding the captured
+victim out of reach of larger animals, to which it might otherwise
+become a prey. Any of the varieties described under the title of
+"twitch-up" will answer the purpose, and a little experimenting
+will soon prove which one will be the most successful for this
+particular animal. The bait may consist of a bird's or fowl's head,
+fish, liver, or any fresh meat or entrails.
+
+The common box trap, page 103, or the box snare, page 56, may also
+be used to good purpose, but the former will need to be carefully
+watched lest the enclosed prisoner gnaw his way out and thus escape.
+
+When the steel trap is employed, it should be of the size of Newhouse,
+No. 2-1/2, set on the ground beneath some rock,
+[Page 194]
+and covered with leaves, rotten wood, or earth, and the bait fastened
+or suspended about eighteen inches above it, in such a position
+that the animal will be obliged to step upon the trap in order to
+reach it. An enclosure may be constructed of stones piled together,
+the trap being set and covered in the opening and the bait secured
+at the back. A staked pen, such as is described on page 143, with
+the trap and bait arranged as there directed, also works well.
+Wherever or however the trap is set, the bait should be so placed
+that the animal cannot possibly climb on any neighboring object to
+reach it. The hollow of a tree trunk forms an excellent situation
+for the trap, and the same hollow may also be baited at the back
+and a dead-fall constructed across its opening. The box or barrel
+pit-fall, described on page 127, is said to be very successful in
+trapping the marten, always baiting it with the platform secure
+for a few days before setting for capture. The same methods directed
+for the capture of the mink are also useful in trapping the marten.
+The animal should be skinned as described for the fox.
+
+
+THE FISHER.
+
+This animal is classed among the martens, and is principally to
+be found in Canada and the Northern United States, where it is
+known as the black cat, or woodshock. In our natural histories it
+is described under the name of the pekan.
+
+In general habits, this species resembles the other martens, but its
+body inclines more to the weasel shape. The fur is quite valuable,
+and much resembles the sable. Its color is generally of a greyish
+brown, the grey tint being found chiefly on the back, neck, head
+and shoulders, the legs, tail, and back of the neck being marked
+with dark brown. Like the marten, the fisher prowls by night,
+frequenting swampy places in quest of food.
+
+It builds its habitation in hollow trees, and in burrows, which it
+excavates in the banks of rivers or streams, and its young (generally
+twins) are produced in early spring. The trapping season for the
+fisher commences at about the middle of October, and extends to
+the middle of May, after which time the fur decreases in value.
+
+In trapping the fisher, the same plans may be used as for the marten
+and mink, as these animals much resemble each other in general
+habits. The steel trap arranged in an artificial or
+[Page 195]
+natural enclosure, or otherwise so set as that the animal will be
+obliged to step on it in order to reach the bait, will be successful
+and the use of composition "scent bait," described on page 153 will
+be found to enhance success. In every case where the steel trap
+is used the spring pole, page 144, should always be employed, for
+the reasons already described.
+
+Dead-falls, garrotes, box-traps, twitch-ups, or pit-falls, may
+all be employed to good advantage. Bait with a fish or bird, or
+fresh meat of any kind, and connect the various traps by a trail,
+as described for the mink and marten.
+
+Remove the skin as directed for the fox, and stretch as described
+on page 273.
+
+
+THE SKUNK.
+
+This disgusting animal has won the unenviable but deserving reputation
+of being the most foul-smelling creature on the face of the globe.
+He belongs to the weasel tribe, and all these animals are noted
+for certain odors which they possess, but the skunk is pre-eminent
+in the utter noisomeness of the horrid effluvium which it exhales.
+
+This scent proceeds from a liquid secretion which collects in a
+gland beneath the insertion of the tail, and the animal has the
+power to eject or retain it at will.
+
+It must have been given to the creature as a means of defence,
+for there seems to be no animal that can withstand the influence
+of its fetid stench. Dogs are trained to hunt the animal, but until
+they have learned from experience the right method of attacking the
+fetid game, and have discovered the whereabouts of the animal's
+magazine of ammunition, they are of little use to the hunter, and
+are only too glad to plunge into some neighboring brook, or roll
+in some near earth, in hopes of ridding themselves of the stench
+which almost distracts them. The offensive propensities of the
+skunk are only exercised when the animal is alarmed or frightened.
+There are generally certain "premonitory symptoms" of attack which
+the creature usually exhibits, and it is well to retire from his
+"shooting range" as soon as they are observed.
+
+When the animal is ready to discharge his battery, he suddenly
+elevates his large bushy tail, over his body, and turns his back
+on his enemy. The result of the discharge fills the air for a great
+distance around, and man and beast fly from the neighborhood of
+the indescribable and fetid effluvium, which fairly makes one's
+nostrils _ache_.
+
+[Page 196]
+A single drop of this disgusting secretion on the clothes is enough
+to scent the whole garment, and it is almost impossible to rid
+the tainted fabric from the odor.
+
+It is extremely acrid in quality, and if a very small quantity
+fall upon the eyes, it is very apt to produce permanent blindness.
+
+Dogs, in their first experiences with the skunk, are frequently
+thus blinded, and there are well authenticated instances of human
+beings who have been deprived of their sight through their close
+proximity to an infuriated skunk.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The writer, in his extreme youth, learned, through dear experience,
+the putrid qualities of this noisome quadruped. It was on one bright
+Sunday, in New England, and he was out in his Sunday clothing,
+gathering wild strawberries. He suddenly discovered a pretty little
+playful animal with bushy tail, romping in the grass near him.
+The creature was seemingly gentle, and showed no inclination to
+run away, and the pet-loving nature of the writer prompted an
+irresistible desire to capture so pretty a creature. Encouraged
+by its gentle manner, he eagerly ran towards the tempting prize,
+and grasping it by the bushy tail, which the animal had raised
+perpendicularly, as if for a handle, the pretty creature was locked
+[Page 197]
+in the affectionate embrace of its youthful admirer. But alas! he
+soon repented his rashness, and the treacherous "pet" was quickly
+flung away leaving its victim in such a foul state of overwhelming
+astonishment as can be more easily imagined than described.
+
+Every article of clothing worn on that eventful Sunday had to be
+buried, and it took weeks of Sundays before the odor could be thoroughly
+eradicated from the hair and skin of the individual who wore those
+Sunday garments. After this adventure, the youth became more cautious
+with respect to pretty little playful animals, with black and white
+fur and bushy tails.
+
+There is hardly a farmer in the country but what has had some amusing
+or serious experience with the skunk, and almost every trapper
+has, at one time or another, served as a target for his shooting
+propensities. Natural histories are replete with anecdotes of which
+this animal is the mephitic hero, and volumes might be filled to
+the glory of his strong-smelling qualities.
+
+Perhaps it is through the prejudice of the writer that he cannot
+enthusiastically recommend the skunk as a domestic pet; but it
+is nevertheless asserted, on good authority, that these animals,
+when reared from the young, become very interesting and playful
+in the household, and completely shut down on their objectionable
+faculties.
+
+Our illustration gives a very good idea of the animal, and it is
+so unlike any other creature that a further description will not
+be necessary. The prevailing colors are white and black; but these
+vary much in proportion, the animal sometimes being almost totally
+white, or altogether black. The fur is long, and comparatively coarse,
+being intermixed with long, glossy hairs, and is most valuable in
+the black animal. The body of the creature is about a foot and a
+half in length, exclusive of the tail, which adds about fourteen
+inches more.
+
+The skunk is generally nocturnal in its habits, secreting itself
+during the day in hollow trees, or crevices in rocks, or wood-piles.
+At night it ventures forth in quest of its food, which consists
+chiefly of grasshoppers, worms and other insects, wild fruit and
+such small animals in the shape of frogs, mice and birds as it can
+capture. The poultry yard often offers an irresistible temptation,
+and both fowls and eggs often serve to appease his appetite.
+
+The skunk is common throughout the greater part of North America,
+and in many localities the numbers increase very
+[Page 198]
+rapidly unless checked. The young are brought forth in burrows
+or holes in rocks during April or May, and are from six to nine
+in number.
+
+"Skunk fur" does not sound well when thought of in connection with
+a set of fashionable furs; and for this reason the pelt of this
+animal is dignified by the name of Alaska sable by all dealers in
+the article. When known by this fancy title it suddenly becomes a
+very popular addition to fashion's winter wardrobe, and is one of
+the leading furs which are exported to meet the demand of foreign
+countries. Foul as the animal is, it seldom soils its own fur with
+its offensive fluid; and when carefully skinned the fur is as saleable
+as that of any other animal.
+
+The Skunk is trapped in a variety of ways; and as the animal is
+not cunning, no great skill is required. The steel trap is most
+commonly used, as other wooden varieties, box traps or dead-falls,
+for instance, are apt to absorb and retain the stench of the animal.
+In using the steel trap the size No. 2 should be taken. It may be
+set at the entrance to their burrows or in their feeding grounds.
+It should be covered with loose earth or chaff, or some other light
+substance, and baited with small bits of meat, dead mice, or eggs
+placed around it. The enclosure illustrated on page 143 also answers
+well, and in all cases the spring pole, page 144, should be used.
+The dead-fall, page 107, is often employed, and the twitch-up, page
+43, is a particularly effective contrivance for their capture, often
+preventing the evil consequences of the odor by causing instant
+dislocation of the neck, and this without injuring the fur. A stroke
+upon the backbone near the tail, by producing paralysis of the
+parts, also prevents the animal from using his offensive powers,
+and a dead-fall so constructed as to fall upon the animal at this
+part will accomplish the same effect. To manage this it is only
+necessary to place the bait far back in the enclosure, so that
+the skunk on reaching it will bring the rear portion of his body
+beneath the suspended log. The scent of the skunk is as we have
+said, almost ineradicable, but we would recommend chloride of lime
+as the most effectual antidote.
+
+It is also said by some trappers that the odor may be dissipated
+by packing the garment in fresh hemlock boughs, letting it thus
+remain for a couple of days. This is certainly a valuable hint
+if true, and is well worth remembering.
+
+For skinning the skunk, see Beaver, Otter and Fox.
+
+
+[Page 199]
+THE WOLVERINE.
+
+This, one of the most ferocious as well as detestable of American
+animals, is principally found in British America and the upper
+portion of the United States. It has won a world wide reputation
+for its fierceness and voracity, and on this account is popularly
+known as the Glutton. It is not confined to America, but is also
+found in Siberia and Northern Europe.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The general appearance of this animal, ugly in disposition as in
+appearance, is truthfully given in our illustration. It is not
+unlike a small bear in looks, and was formerly classed among that
+genus.
+
+The general color of the wolverine is dark brown. The muzzle, as
+far back as the eye-brows, is black, and the immense paws partake
+of the same hue. The claws of the animal are
+[Page 200]
+long and almost white, forming a singular contrast to the jetty fur
+of the feet. So large are the feet of this animal, and so powerful
+the claws, that a mere look at them will tell the story of their
+death dealing qualities, a single stroke from one of them often
+being sufficient for a mortal wound. Although the wolverine is
+not as large as the bear, its foot prints in the snow are often
+mistaken for those of that creature, being nearly of the same size.
+
+The glutton feeds largely on the smaller quadrupeds, and is a most
+determined foe to the beaver during the summer months; the ice-hardened
+walls of their houses serving as a perfect protection against his
+attacks in the winter time.
+
+To the trapper of the north the wolverine is a most detested enemy,
+following the rounds of the traps and either detaching the baits
+or tearing away the dead animals which have fallen a prey to them.
+The trapper's entire circuit will be thus followed in a single
+night, and where the veritable "glutton" does not care to devour
+its victim it will satisfy its ferocious instinct by scratching
+it in pieces, leaving the mutilated remains to tell the story of
+its nocturnal visit.
+
+The wolverine is a dangerous foe to many animals larger than itself,
+and by the professional hunter it is looked upon as an ugly and
+dangerous customer.
+
+There are several methods of trapping this horrid creature, and
+in many localities successful trapping of other animals will be
+impossible without first ridding the neighborhood of the wolverines.
+Dead-falls of large size will be found to work successfully, baiting
+with the body of some small animal, such as a rat or squirrel.
+A piece of cat, beaver or muskrat flesh is also excellent, and
+by slightly scenting with castoreum success will be made sure.
+Several of these traps may be set at intervals, and a trail made
+by dragging a piece of smoked beaver meat between them. The gun
+trap, as described on page 20, will also do good service in
+exterminating this useless and troublesome animal.
+
+Steel traps of size No. 3 or 4 are commonly used to good purpose.
+They may be arranged in any of the various methods already described,
+the plan of the enclosure, page 143, being particularly desirable. In
+all cases the trap should be covered with leaves, moss or the like,
+and the bait slightly scented with castoreum. Like all voracious
+animals, the perpetual greed of the wolverine completely overbalances
+its caution, and thus renders its capture an easy task.
+
+[Page 201]
+The home of the animal is generally in a crevice or cave between
+rocks, and its young, two or three in number, are brought forth
+in May.
+
+In removing the skin, it may be ripped up the belly, or taken off
+whole, as described for the fox.
+
+
+THE OPOSSUM.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The opossum is found more or less throughout nearly all the United
+States. In size it equals a large cat, the tail being about fifteen
+inches long, very flexible and covered with scales. The general
+color of the fur is grayish-white, slightly tinged with yellow,
+[Page 202]
+and the legs are of a brownish hue, which color also surrounds the
+eyes to some extent.
+
+The fur is comparatively soft and wooly, and thickly sprinkled with
+long hairs, white at the base and brown at the tips.
+
+The nature and habits of the animal are very interesting. Its nest
+is made in some sheltered hollow in an old fallen or live tree,
+or beneath overhanging roots or rocks, and composed of moss and
+dead leaves. The young are produced in several litters during the
+year, and when born are transferred by the mother to a pouch situated
+in the lower front portion of her body. Here they remain and are
+nourished by the parent until they are five weeks old, at which
+time they emerge and travel with their mother, and their little
+ring tails do them good service in holding fast to their guardian.
+It is an amusing sight to see a family of young 'possums thus linked
+together, and so "attached to each other."
+
+The opossum is a voracious and destructive animal, prowling about
+during the hours of darkness and prying into every nook and corner in
+hope of finding something that may satisfy the cravings of imperious
+hunger. Rats, mice, nuts, berries, birds, insects and eggs are all
+devoured by this animal; and when not content with these he does
+not hesitate to insinuate himself into the poultry yard, and make
+a meal on the fowls and young chickens. His fondness for fruit and
+Indian corn often leads him to commit great havoc among plantations
+and fruit trees, and his appetite for the fruit of the persimmon tree
+is proverbial. While feeding on these fruits he frequently hangs
+by his tail, as seen in our illustration, gathering the persimmons
+with his fore paws and eating them while thus suspended. He is a
+most agile climber, and his tenacity and terminal resources in
+this direction are admirably depicted in that well known Methodist
+sermon, as follows: "An' you may shake one foot loose, but 'tothers
+thar; an' you may shake _all_ his feet loose, but he laps his tail
+around the lim' an' he clings forever."
+
+He is an adept at feigning death, "playing 'possum" so skilfully
+as frequently to deceive an expert.
+
+"'Possums" are hunted in the Southern States much after the manner
+of coons; and to the negroes a "'possum hunt" signifies most unbounded
+sport."
+
+Though cunning in many ways, the opossum is singularly simple in
+others. There is hardly any animal more easily captured; for it
+will walk into the clumsiest of traps, and permit itself to be
+ensnared by a device at which an American rat would look with utter
+contempt.
+
+[Page 203]
+The dead-fall, garrote, or stout snare may all be employed, being
+baited with any of the substances already described. The steel
+trap 2-1/1 or 3 is most commonly used, being set in the haunts of
+the animal, and slightly scented with musk.
+
+See Fox and Beaver, for directions for skinning, stretching, etc.,
+etc.
+
+
+THE RABBIT.
+
+The rabbit or "cotton tail," as he is familiarly termed, is too
+well-known to need any description here. From Maine to Texas our
+woods abound with these fleet-footed little creatures, of which
+there are several American species. They are the swiftest of all
+American quadrupeds, and have been known to clear over twenty feet
+in a single leap. They are all natural burrowers, although they
+often forego the trouble of excavating a home when one can be found
+already made, and which can be easily modified or adapted to their
+purposes. The common rabbit of New England often makes its home or
+"form," beneath a pile of brush or logs, or in crevices in rocks.
+Here it brings forth its young, of which there are often three
+or four litters a year. The creature becomes a parent at a very
+early age, and by the time that a rabbit is a year old it may have
+attained the dignity of a grand parent.
+
+The food of the rabbit consists of grasses, bark, leaves, bulbs,
+young twigs, buds, berries and the like, and of cultivated vegetables
+of all kinds, when opportunity favors. When surprised in the woods
+it manifests its alarm by violently striking the ground with its
+feet, causing the peculiar sound so often noticed at their first
+jump. The animal is fond of pursuing a beaten path in the woods,
+and is often snared at such places. Its enemies, beside man, are
+the lynx, and other carnivorous animals, hawks, owls, and even
+the domestic cat.
+
+The rabbit is a favorite game with all amateur sportsmen, and the
+devices used in its capture are multitudinous. It is by no means
+a difficult animal to trap, and a glance through the second and
+fourth sections of our book, will reveal many ingenious snares
+and other contrivances, commonly and successfully used.
+
+The Box trap, page 103, is perhaps the most universal example of
+rabbit trap, but the Self-setting trap, page 110, and Double-ender,
+page 109, are also equally effective where the animal is desired
+to be taken alive. If this is not an object, the snare is to be
+recommended as simple in construction and sure in its result.
+
+[Page 204]
+The above constitute the only devices commonly used for the capture
+of the rabbit, the steel trap being dispensed with. On page 109
+will be found additional remarks concerning the rabbit, and many
+hints no baiting, etc., are also given under the heads of the various
+traps above alluded to.
+
+The skin of the rabbit is very thin and tender, and should be carefully
+removed, either as described for the fox, or in the ordinary method,
+by incision up the belly. Full directions for curing and tanning
+the skins will be found under its proper head in a later portion
+of this work.
+
+
+THE WOOD-CHUCK.
+
+This animal also called the marmot, is so well-known to most of
+our readers, that a detailed description will not be necessary,
+suffice it to say that the general color is brownish grey above,
+changing to reddish brown on the under parts. The head, tail and
+feet partaking of a darker color. The length of the animal is about
+a foot and a-half, exclusive of the tail, which is four inches
+long.
+
+The woodchuck is a clumsy looking animal, and anything but active
+in its movements. It is very unintelligent, and is always too ready
+to use its powerful teeth on the hand of any one who may attempt
+to handle it. It is naturally a timid animal, but when cornered
+or brought to bay, it fights most desperately.
+
+The woodchuck is an expert excavator, and where the animals exist
+in large numbers great damage is done by their united burrowing. They
+generally remain in their burrows during the day, only venturing out
+casually to see what is going on, and keeping near their entrance.
+Towards evening they start out to feed, devouring certain grasses
+and weeds, and also pumpkins and green corn with avidity, ever
+and anon sitting upright on their haunches, to see if the coast
+is clear. In case they are surprised in their meal, they hurry
+home in a pell-mell sort of a way, giving as much the appearance
+of rolling as running, but, nevertheless, getting over the ground
+with fair speed for such an unwieldy animal. The skin is loose and
+very tough, and possesses no commercial value, being principally
+used for whiplashes. Their burrows are generally on the slope of
+a hill, and often at the foot of a rock or tree. These tunnels
+vary from ten to thirty feet in length, sloping downward from the
+opening, afterward taking an upward turn and terminating in a roomy
+chamber, in which the animal sleeps in
+[Page 205]
+winter and where the young from three to eight in number are brought
+forth. The woodchuck is found throughout nearly the whole of the
+United States, and is especially abundant in New England, where
+it is a decided nuisance. It is found as far south as Tennessee,
+and westward to the Rocky Mountains. The flesh of the woodchuck
+is by many much esteemed as food, particularly in the Fall. When
+used for this purpose, the animal should be skinned and carefully
+cleaned immediately after death, taking especial care to remove the
+masses of fat which lie inside of the legs, as these, if allowed
+to remain, are sure to taint the flesh in cooking.
+
+The animals are easily caught by setting the traps at the entrance
+of their burrows, and carefully covering them with loose earth,
+no bait being required. They may also be captured by the aid of
+a spring-pole, with noose attached, the pole being bent down and
+caught under a notched stick, and the noose being arranged at the
+opening of the burrow, see page 43, the Woodchuck in passing in
+or out will become entangled in the noose, and in his efforts to
+escape the pole will be loosened from the peg, thus lifting the
+animal in mid-air. Woodchucks are also sometimes drowned out of
+their holes, and the turtle is often put to good use for the purpose
+of smoking the animals from their subterranean dwellings. A ball of
+wicking saturated with kerosene is attached by a wire to the tail
+of the reptile. When the ball is ignited the creature is introduced
+into the entrance of the hole, and of course in fleeing from its
+fiery pursuer it traverses the full length of the burrow, and as
+another matter of course drives out its other occupants, which
+are shot or captured as they emerge.
+
+The woodchunk's skin is generally taken off as described for the
+muskrat, and stretched accordingly.
+
+
+THE GOPHER.
+
+This remarkable little animal somewhat resembles the Mole in its
+general appearance and habits. It is also commonly known as the
+Canada Pouched Rat, and is principally found west of the Mississippi
+and northward. It is a burrowing animal, and like the Mole drives
+its subterranean tunnels in all directions, throwing up little
+hillocks at regular intervals of from five to twenty feet. Its
+body is thick set and clumsy and about ten inches long, and its
+Mole-like claws are especially adapted for digging. Its food consists
+of roots and vegetables, and its
+[Page 206]
+long and projecting incisors are powerful agents in cutting the
+roots which cross its path in making its burrow. The most striking
+characteristic of the animal, and that from which it takes its
+name, consists in the large cheek pouches which hang from each
+side of the mouth and extend back to to shoulders. They are used as
+receptacles of food which the animal hurriedly gathers when above
+ground, afterward returning to its burrow to enjoy its feast at its
+leisure. It was formerly very commonly and erroneously believed
+that the Gopher used its pouches in conveying the earth from its
+burrow, and this is generally supposed at the present day, but
+it is now known that the animal uses these pockets only for the
+conveyance of its food.
+
+The color of the fur is reddish-brown on the upper parts, fading
+to ashy-brown on the abdomen, and the feet are white.
+
+In making its tunnels, the dirt is brought to the surface, thus
+making the little mounds after the manner of the mole. After having
+dug its tunnel for several feet the distance becomes so great as
+to render this process impossible, and the old hole is carefully
+stopped up and a new one made at the newly excavated end of the
+tunnel, the animal continuing on in its labors and dumping from
+the fresh orifice. These mounds of earth occur at intervals on
+the surface of the ground, and although no hole can be discovered
+beneath them, they nevertheless serve to indicate the track of
+the burrow, which lies several inches beneath.
+
+The Gopher is a great pest to western cultivators, and by its root
+feeding and undermining propensities does extensive injury to crops
+generally. They may be successfully trapped in the following manner:
+Strike a line between the two most recent earth mounds, and midway
+between them remove a piece of the sod. By the aid of a trowel
+or a sharp stick the burrow may now be reached. Insert your hand
+in the tunnel and enlarge the interior sufficiently to allow the
+introduction of No. (0) steel trap. Set the trap flatly in the
+bottom of the burrow, and then laying a piece of shingle or a few
+sticks across the excavation replace the sod. Several traps may
+be thus set in the burrows at considerable distances apart, and a
+number of the animals thus taken. The traps are sometimes inserted
+in the burrows from the hillocks, by first finding the hole and
+then enlarging it by inserting the arm and digging with the hand
+beneath. The former method, however, is preferable.
+
+The skin of the Gopher may be pulled off the body either by cutting
+up the hind less, as described in reference to the Fox,
+[Page 207]
+or by making the incision from the lower jaw down the neck, as decided
+for the muskrat, a simple board stretcher being used.
+
+
+THE MOLE.
+
+Of all the mammalia the Mole is entitled to take the first place
+in the list of burrowers. This extraordinary creature does not
+merely dig tunnels in the ground and sit at the end of them, as is
+the case with many animals, but it forms a complicated subterranean
+dwelling place with chambers, passages and other arrangements of
+wonderful completeness. It has regular roads leading to its feeding
+grounds; establishes a system of communication as elaborate as
+that of a modern railway, or, to be more correct, as that of the
+subterranean network of the sewers of a city. It is an animal of
+varied accomplishments. It can run tolerably fast, it can fight
+like a bull-dog, it can capture prey under or above ground, it can
+swim fearlessly, and it can sink wells for the purpose of quenching
+its thirst. Take the mole out of its proper sphere, and it is awkward
+and clumsy as the sloth when placed on level ground, or the seal
+when brought ashore. Replace it in the familiar earth and it becomes
+a different being, full of life and energy, and actuated by a fiery
+activity which seems quite inconsistent with its dull aspect and
+seemingly inert form.
+
+We all know that the mole burrows under the ground, raising at
+intervals the little hillocks or "mole hills" with which we are
+so familiar; but most of us little know the extent or variety of
+its tunnels, or that the animal works on a regular system and does
+not burrow here and there at random. How it manages to form its
+burrows in such admirably straight lines, is not an easy problem,
+because it is always done in black darkness, and we know of nothing
+which can act as a guide to the animal. As for ourselves and other
+eye-possessing creatures, the feat of walking in a straight line
+with closed eyelids is almost an impossibility, and every swimmer
+knows the difficulty of keeping a straight course under water,
+even with the use of his eyes.
+
+The ordinary mole hills, so plentiful in our fields, present nothing
+particularly worthy of notice. They are merely the shafts through
+which the quadruped miner ejects the material which it has scooped
+out, as it drives its many tunnels through the soil, and if they
+be carefully opened after the rain has consolidated the heap of
+loose material, nothing more will be discovered than a simple hole
+leading into the tunnel. But let us
+[Page 208]
+strike into one of the large tunnels, as any mole catcher will
+teach us, and follow it up to the real abode of the animal. The
+hill under which this domicile is hidden, is of considerable size,
+but is not very conspicuous, being always placed under the shelter of
+a tree, shrub, or a suitable bank, and would scarcely be discovered
+but by a practiced eye. The subterranean abode within the hillock
+is so remarkable that it involuntarily reminds the observer of the
+well-known "maze," which has puzzled the earliest years of youth
+throughout many generations. The central apartment, or "keep,"
+if we so term it, is a nearly spherical chamber, the roof of which
+is almost on a level with the earth around the hill, and therefore
+situated at a considerable depth from the apex of the heap. Around
+this keep are driven two circular passages or galleries, one just
+level with the ceiling and the other at some height above. Five
+short descending passages connect the galleries with each other,
+but the only entrance into the keep is from the upper gallery,
+out of which three passages lead into the ceiling of the keep. It
+will be seen therefore that when the mole enters the house from
+one of its tunnels, it has first to get into the lower gallery
+to ascend thence into the upper gallery, and so descend into the
+central chamber. There is, however, another entrance into the keep
+from below. A passage dips downward from the centre of the chamber,
+and then, taking a curve upwards, opens into one of the larger burrows
+or high roads, as they may be fitly termed. It is a noteworthy
+fact that the high roads, of which there are several radiating in
+different directions, never open into the gallery opposite one
+of the entrances into the upper gallery. The mole therefore is
+obliged to go to the right or left as soon as it enters the domicile
+before it can find a passage to the upper gallery. By the continual
+pressure of the moles upon the walls of the passages and roof of
+the central chamber, they become quite smooth, hard, and polished,
+so that the earth will not fall in, even after the severest storm.
+
+The use of so complicated a series of cells and passages is extremely
+doubtful, and our total ignorance of the subject affords another
+reason why the habits of this wonderful animal should be better
+studied.
+
+About the middle of June the moles begin to fall in love, and are
+as furious in their attachments as in all other phases of their
+nature. At that time two male moles cannot meet without mutual
+jealousy, and they straightway begin to fight, scratching, tearing,
+and biting with such insane fury that they seem unconscious
+[Page 209]
+of anything except the heat of battle. Indeed the whole life of
+the mole is one of fury, and he eats like a starving tiger, tearing
+and rending his prey with claws and teeth, and crunching audibly
+the body of the worm between the sharp points. Magnify the mole
+to the size of the lion and you will have a beast more terrible
+than the world has yet seen. Though nearly blind, and therefore
+incapable of following its prey by sight, it would be active beyond
+conception, springing this way and that way as it goes along, leaping
+with lightness and quickness upon any animal which it meets, rending
+it in pieces in a moment, thrusting its blood-thirsty snout into
+the body of its victim, eating the still warm and bleeding flesh,
+and instantly searching for fresh prey. Such a creature would,
+without the least hesitation, devour a serpent twenty feet in length,
+and so terrible would be its voracity that it would eat twenty or
+thirty of such snakes in a day as easily as it devours the same
+number of worms. With one grasp of its teeth and one stroke of
+its claws, it could tear an ox asunder; and if it should happen
+to enter a fold of sheep or enclosure of cattle, it would kill
+them all for the mere lust of slaughter. Let, then, two of such
+animals meet in combat, and how terrific would be the battle! Fear
+is a feeling of which the mole seems to be utterly unconscious,
+and, when fighting with one of its own species, he gives his whole
+energies to the destruction of his opponent without seeming to heed
+the injuries inflicted upon himself. From the foregoing sketch
+the reader will be able to estimate the extraordinary energies of
+this animal, as well as the wonderful instincts with which it is
+endowed.
+
+The fur of the mole is noted for its clean, velvety aspect; and
+that an animal should be able to pass unsoiled through earth of
+all textures is a really remarkable phenomenon. It is partly to
+be explained by the character of the hair, and partly by that of
+the skin. The hair of the mole is peculiar on account of its want
+of "set." The tops of the hairs do not point in any particular
+direction, but may be pressed equally forward or backward or to
+either side. The microscope reveals the cause of this peculiarity.
+The hair is extremely fine at its exit from the skin, and gradually
+increases in thickness until it reaches its full width when it
+again diminishes. This alternation occurs several times in each
+hair, and gives the peculiar velvet-like texture with which we
+are all so familiar. There is scarcely any coloring matter in the
+slender portion of the hair, and the beautiful changeable coppery
+[Page 210]
+hues of the fur is owing to this structure. Another reason for the
+cleanliness of the fur is the strong, though membranous muscle beneath
+the skin. While the mole is engaged in travelling, particularly in
+loose earth, the soil for a time clings to the fur; but at tolerably
+regular intervals the creature gives the skin a sharp and powerful
+shake, which throws off at once the whole of the mould that has
+collected upon the fur. Some amount of dust still remains, for,
+however clean the fur of a mole may seem to be, if the creature
+be placed for an hour in water, a considerable quantity of earth
+will be dissolved away and fall to the bottom of the vessel. The
+improvement in the fur after being well washed with soft tepid
+water and soap, is almost incredible. Many persons have been struck
+with such admiration for the fur of the mole, that they have been
+desirous of having a number of the skins collected and made into a
+waist-coat. This certainly can be done, but the garment thus made
+is so very hot that it can only be worn in winter. Such garments
+are very expensive, and owing to the tender quality of the skin,
+possess but little lasting powers. There is also a wonderfully
+strong smell about the mole; so strong, indeed, that dogs will
+sometimes point at moles instead of game, to the great disgust
+of their masters. This odor adheres obstinately to the skin, and
+even in furs which have been dried for more than ten years, this
+peculiar savor has been noticed.
+
+We have given much space to the mole, not particularly on account
+of its particular usefulness to the trapper, but because of its
+many claims to our notice. If the creature were a rare and costly
+inhabitant of some distant land, how deep would be the interest
+which it would incite. But because it is a creature of our country,
+and to be found in every field, there are but few who care to examine
+a creature so common, or who experience any feelings save those
+of disgust when they see a mole making its way over the ground
+in search of a soft spot in which to burrow.
+
+In many localities this interesting animal exists in such numbers
+as to become a positive nuisance, and the invention of a trap which
+would effectually curtail their depredations has been a problem
+to many a vexed and puzzled farmer.
+
+Mole traps of various kinds have found their way into our agricultural
+papers, but none has proved more effectual than the one we describe
+on page 119. An arrangement of the _figure four_, page 107, is
+also sometimes employed with good success. In this case the bait
+stick crosses the upright stick close to the ground, and rests over
+[Page 211]
+the burrow of the mole, the earth being previously pressed down to
+the surrounding level. The stone should be narrow and very heavy, and
+of course no bait is required.
+
+The pieces should be set carefully, and so adjusted that the lifting
+of the soil beneath the stick as the mole forces its way through
+the compressed earth will dislodge the bait stick and let down
+the stone with its crushing weight.
+
+Another method consists in embedding a deep flower pot in one of
+the main tunnels of the animal, and carefully replacing the soil
+above. The mole in traversing his burrow thus falls into the pit
+and is effectually captured. This is a very ingenious mode of taking
+the animal, and rewarded its inventor with seven moles on the first
+night of trial.
+
+There are a number of other devices said to work excellently, but
+the above we believe to be the most effectual of all.
+
+There are several species of American moles, the star-nosed variety
+being familiar to most of us. The most common moles are the shrew
+moles, with pointed noses. The silver mole is a large species, of
+a changeable silvery color, found on the Western prairies. The
+Oregon mole is nearly black, with purplish or brownish reflections.
+
+The most beautiful of all the moles is found at the Cape of Good
+Hope. It is of about the size of the ordinary American species, and
+its soft fur glistens with brilliant green and golden reflections.
+The fur of this species is probably the most wonderful and beautiful
+in the whole animal kingdom.
+
+
+SQUIRRELS.
+
+There are many species of squirrels found in the United States,
+but their fur is of little value, and of trifling importance in
+the fur trade; the squirrel fur of our markets being that of a
+small grey European variety. Squirrels, as a class, possess much
+the same peculiarities and habits. Their claws are particularly
+adapted for life among the trees; their tails are long and bushy,
+covering over the backs of the animals when in a sitting posture.
+They are all lithe and quick of movement, and their senses of sight
+and hearing are especially keen. They are constantly on the alert,
+and are full of artifice when pursued. Their food consists chiefly
+of nuts, fruits, and grain, but when pushed by hunger, there is
+no telling what they will not eat. They generally provide for the
+[Page 212]
+winter months by laying up a store of the foregoing provisions,
+either in holes in trees or interstices in the bark, or in cavities
+under ground. The shag-bark hickory offers an especial inducement to
+these provident creatures in the numerous crevices and cracks
+throughout the bark. It is not an uncommon thing to find whole
+handfuls of nuts carefully packed away in one of these cracks, and
+a sharp stroke with an ax in the trunk of one of these trees will
+often dislodge numbers of the nuts. The writer has many a time gone
+"nutting" in this way in the middle of winter with good success. The
+nests of squirrels are generally built in trees, either in a crotch
+between the branches or in some deserted woodpecker's hole. Some
+species live in burrows in the ground, and those individuals who
+are lucky enough to be in the neighborhood of a barn often make their
+abode therein, taking their regular three meals a day from the granary.
+In many localities these animals thus become a perfect pest to the
+farmers, and their destruction becomes a matter of urgent necessity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Squirrels, although resembling each other much as regards
+[Page 213]
+their general habits, differ considerably in the size and color
+of the different species.
+
+The principal varieties found on our continent are:--
+
+The large grey squirrel, which is common in the Eastern and Middle
+States, and which is about two feet in length, including the tail.
+The common red squirrel, or chicaree, smaller than the foregoing,
+and found more or less all through the United States. The black
+squirrel, which is about the size of the grey, and found in the
+north-eastern part of the United States, near the great lakes. In
+the Southern States there is a variety known as the fox squirrel,
+about the size of the red squirrel, and quite variable in color.
+The Middle States furnishes a species called the cat squirrel,
+rather smaller than the preceding. Its tail is very broad, and its
+color varies from very light to very dark grey.
+
+The ground squirrel, or chipmuck, with its prettily striped sides,
+is common to most of our readers, its general color being red and
+the stripes being black and white.
+
+Another burrowing species, known as the Oregon or downy squirrel,
+is found in the Territory from which it takes its name, and also
+northward in British America. In size it resembles the chipmuck,
+and its color is light red above, pure white beneath, and silver
+grey at the sides.
+
+The beautiful silky variety, known as the flying squirrel, with
+its grey chinchilla-like fur and loose skin, is found throughout
+the United States east of the Mississippi.
+
+Louisiana and Texas furnish the golden-bellied squirrel, which is
+about twenty inches in length, with tail golden yellow beneath,
+and golden grey above. The sooty squirrel is also found in this
+locality, being about the same size as the last mentioned, and
+black above and brownish red beneath.
+
+There are other varieties in California known as the woolly,
+soft-haired, and weasel squirrels; and in the Western States we
+find the large red-tailed squirrels, which are about the size of
+the large grey variety of the Eastern and Middle States.
+
+Squirrels, as a tribe, are much sought for as pets, and most of
+the species are easily tamed.
+
+Box traps of various kinds are used in taking them alive. The varieties
+on pages 103, 106 and 110 are especially adapted for this purpose,
+and should be set either in the trees or on the ground, and baited
+with an apple, a portion of an ear of corn, or of whatever the
+animal is particularly fond.
+
+When the animals exist in such numbers as to become a destructive
+[Page 214]
+nuisance to the farm, the small-sized steel trap, No. 0, arranged
+with bait hung above it, will work to good advantage. Twitch-ups
+are also successful, and we might also recommend the traps on pages
+107, 116 and 128 as worthy of trial when the animal is not desired
+to be captured alive.
+
+Squirrels may be skinned either by ripping up the belly, or in a
+whole piece, as described in regard to the fox.
+
+We pause before going further into the mysteries of trapping in
+connection with the animals which we are about to consider, as
+they are generally exempt from the wiles of the trapper's art,
+coming more properly in the field of the hunter or sportsman. The
+idea of trapping a deer, for instance, seems barbarous indeed;
+but are not all the ways of deceiving and killing these splendid
+animals equally so? Are not the various strategies and cunning
+devices of the sportsman, by which these noble creatures are decoyed
+and murdered, equally open to the same objection? As far as barbarity
+goes, there is to us but little choice between the two methods;
+and, generally speaking, we decry them both, and most especially
+do not wish to be understood as encouraging the trapping of these
+animals, except where all other means have failed, and in cases
+where their capture becomes in a measure a matter of necessity.
+This is often the case in the experience of professional trappers.
+The life of the trapper during the trapping season is spent almost
+entirely in the wilderness, often many miles from any human habitation;
+and at times he is solely dependent upon his gun or trap for his
+necessary food.
+
+Sometimes in a dry season, when the leaves and twigs crackle under
+foot, the rifle is as good as useless, for it becomes impossible to
+approach a deer within shooting range. And there are other times
+when ammunition is exhausted, and the trapper is thus forced to rely
+only on his traps for his supply of food. In such circumstances,
+the necessities of the trapper are paramount, and the trapping of
+deer, in such straits, as the most desirable food is rather to
+be recommended than condemned. The same remarks also in a measure
+apply to the moose and prong-horn antelope, as well as to several
+other animals hereinafter mentioned, as they are generally considered
+more in the light of the hunter's than the trapper's game.
+
+
+[Page 215]
+THE DEER.
+
+There are upwards of eight varieties of this animal which inhabit
+North America. The common red or Virginian deer is found throughout
+the United States. The stag or Wapiti deer is now chiefly confined
+to the country west of the Mississippi and northward to British
+America. The moose we shall speak of hereafter. The Rocky Mountain
+mule deer, and the long-tailed deer of the same locality, are two
+more species, and there are also the black-tailed deer and the
+reindeer, the latter of which is a native of British America. The
+scope of our volume will not of course admit of detailed directions
+for trapping each variety, but, as the habits of all the species are
+in a measure similar, our remarks will apply to them in general,
+and particularly to the red or Virginian deer, which is the most
+important to American trappers.
+
+The trap for taking deer should be large, strong, and covered with
+spikes. The Newhouse (No. 4) is particularly adapted, and is especially
+arranged for this purpose.
+
+When the path of the deer is discovered on the border of a stream
+or lake, the trap should be set beneath the surface of the water,
+near the tracks of the animal, and covered by a handful of dried
+grass thrown upon it. When thus set, it may either be left to run
+its chances, or success, further insured by the following precaution:
+In winter the principal food of the deer consists of the twigs,
+buds, and bark of various forest trees, and particularly those
+of the basswood and maple. In the season when the traps are set
+as above described, a most tempting bait is furnished by a large
+branch of either of those trees, freshly cut, and laid near the
+trap. The deer in feeding are thus almost sure to be captured.
+There are certain glands which are located on the inner side of the
+hind legs of the deer, and which emit a very strong and peculiar
+odor. The scent of these glands seems to attract the animal, and
+for this reason are cut out and used by trappers as a scent-bait.
+In the case already described, it is well to rub the glands on
+the twigs of the trees, thus serving as an additional attraction
+to the bait. There is still another method of trapping deer, which
+is commonly employed in the winter time. The trap is sunk in the
+snow at the foot of a tree, and the bait, consisting of an ear
+of corn or a few beards of other grain, is fastened to the tree,
+above the trap, three or more feet from the ground. The animal, in
+reaching for the bait, places its foot in the trap and is secured.
+
+[Page 216]
+When first caught, the deer becomes very wild and violent; so much
+so that if the trap were chained or retarded by a heavy clog, the
+chain, or even the trap itself, would most likely be broken. The
+weight of a trap of this size is generally a sufficient impediment,
+no clog, or at best a very light one, being required. The first
+frantic plunge being over, the entrapped creature immediately yields
+and lies down upon the ground, and is always to be found within
+a few rods of where the trap was first sprung upon him. During
+the winter the traps may also be set in the snow, using the same
+bait already described. It is a common method to fell a small tree
+for the purpose, setting the traps beneath the snow, around the
+top branches. The deer, in browsing in the tender twigs or buds,
+are almost certain to be captured. Dead-falls of different kinds
+are sometimes used in trapping the deer, with good success; using
+the scent bait already described, together with the other bait.
+The food of the deer during the summer consists of nuts, fruits,
+acorns, grass, berries, and water plants, and when in convenient
+neighborhood of cultivated lands, they do not hesitate to make
+a meal from the farmer's turnips, cabbages, and grain.
+
+As we have said, the winter food consists chiefly of the twigs of
+trees. When the snow is deep the deer form what are called "yards,"
+about such trees as they particularly select for their browsing.
+These yards are made simply by tramping down the snow, and large
+numbers of the deer are often thus found together. As the supply
+of food is consumed, the yard is enlarged, so as to enclose other
+trees for browsing, and where deep snows abound throughout the
+winter, these enclosures often become quite extensive in area.
+Panthers, wolves, and wolverines take especial advantage of these,
+and easily secure their victims. By wolves especially entire herds
+of deer are thus destroyed, and whole yards depopulated in a single
+night. Panthers secrete themselves in the trees above the boughs
+overhanging the "yards," and, with stealthy movements, approach and
+pounce upon their unsuspecting prey. The blood-thirsty wolverine
+secretes himself in the nooks and by-ways to spring upon its tawny
+victim unawares. These, together with man, form the principal foes
+of the deer, and we can truthfully assert that the _hunter_ is
+much more its enemy than the _trapper_.
+
+As we do not wish to encourage the wanton trapping of this noble
+creature, it would perhaps be well for us to devote also few words
+in describing the various modes of hunting the animal,
+[Page 217]
+adopted by the "professional sportsmen" throughout the land. The
+most common method is that called "still hunting," most generally
+pursued in winter. The hunter is shod with deer-skin or other soft
+sandals, and starts out with his rifle and ammunition. Finding the
+fresh track of the deer, he cautiously and noiselessly follows up
+the trail, keeping a sharp lookout ahead. A practised deer-hunter
+becomes very skillful and accurate, and the animal is nearly always
+tracked to discovery, when he is shot. The deer's sense of smell is
+extremely acute, and, when in shooting range, it is very necessary
+to approach them in the face of the wind, the direction of which
+may be easily determined by holding the finger in the mouth for a
+moment, afterward pointing it upward toward the sky. The cool side
+of the finger will indicate the direction from which the wind blows,
+and toward that direction the deer should always be approached, or
+as far toward that direction as possible. It will sometimes happen
+that the hunter will surprise the buck, doe, and fawn together. In
+order to secure the three, shoot the doe first. The buck and fawn
+will remain near the spot. The buck should next be shot, and then
+the fawn, the charge being aimed at the breast. Never approach a
+wounded deer without reloading the gun, as he is often more frightened
+than hurt, and is likely to start and run away, unless prevented
+by another shot. During the snow season, deer are always watchful
+of their back track. They are generally at rest during the day,
+starting out late in the afternoon on their usual ramblings, which
+they continue through the night. During the dark hours they love
+to resort to the water side in quest of aquatic plants, and are
+here often taken by hunters, many of which consider "night hunting"
+the favorite and most exciting sport. It is pursued in the following
+manner: The hunter requires a boat or canoe, page 261, a good rifle,
+and a lamp. The lamp, with a screen or reflector behind it, is
+placed at the bow of the boat. One hunter takes the oar, and, with
+noiseless paddle, propels or sculls the boat from the stem. The
+armed hunter crouches behind the light, with the muzzle of his
+rifle projecting beyond the screen sufficiently to easily show the
+forward sight on the tip of the barrel. A dark lantern is sometimes
+used as a light. The eyes of the deer shine very perceptibly at
+night, and his presence on the banks is thus easily detected. If
+he is noiselessly approached, he will remain transfixed by the
+effect of the light from the boat, and he may be neared even to a
+very close range, when he is easily despatched. Hundreds of deer
+[Page 218]
+are thus taken during the summer and autumn. Deer are also chased
+by dogs until they are forced to take refuge in the nearest rivers
+or lakes, when the hunter in his canoe overtakes and shoots them.
+Another method is frequently employed in the hunting of the deer.
+These animals are very fond of salt, and with it they are often
+decoyed to a spot where the hunter lies in wait for them. These
+places are called "deer licks," or salting places, and can be made
+as follows: Select a locality where deer are known to frequent, and
+place a handful of salt either on a smooth spot of ground or in
+the hollow of a log. A section of a log is sometimes slightly dug
+out at one end and the other inserted in the earth, the salt being
+placed in the hollow. The hunter secretes himself in a neighboring
+tree, sometimes erecting a bench or scaffolding for comfort, and,
+provided with gun and ammunition, he awaits the coming of the deer.
+Hunters say that a deer seldom looks higher than his head, and
+that a sportsman on one of these scaffoldings, even though he is
+clumsy in his movements, is seldom noticed by the animal.
+
+The salt lick is also utilized for night hunting. A head-lantern
+is generally required. This can be made in the following manner:
+Construct a cylinder of birch bark or paste-board or any like substance,
+ten inches in height, and of sufficient size to fit closely on
+the head. A circular partition should next be firmly inserted at
+about the middle of the cylinder, and the centre of the partition
+should be provided with a socket for the reception of a candle.
+On this end of the cylinder a piece should now be cut to admit
+of the passage of light from the candle on that side. Having this
+fire-hat at hand wait patiently for the game. When a significant
+noise is heard light the candle and place the cylinder on the head,
+with the open cut in front, thus directing the light toward the
+ground. As the deer approaches, his fiery eyes will easily be seen,
+and the light from the candle will shine sufficiently on the rifle
+to clearly reveal the sights and admit of a sure aim. There is
+still another method of night hunting by the salt lick. The rifle
+is aimed directly at the salted spot, and thus firmly fixed--this
+preparation being made in the daytime. When night approaches, the
+hunter finds a piece of phosphorescent wood or "fox fire," and places
+it on the ground, at a point which he has previously determined
+to be on a direct line of the aim of his gun. The "fox fire" is
+plainly seen from the tree, and as soon as it is darkened he knows
+that it is obscured by the deer, and he pulls the trigger and kills
+his game.
+
+Deer are hunted at all seasons of the year, _but ought not_ to
+[Page 219]
+be hunted during the summer. The sport legitimately begins in September,
+when the buck begins to harden his horns, and when his flesh is
+in its best condition for food. In October the deer is more shy,
+and during this month and after, the sport is at its height. The
+deer should be skinned from an incision down the belly, and the
+hide spread on a hoop stretcher, page 275.
+
+
+THE MOOSE.
+
+We have already given so much space to the hunting of the deer
+that we shall be obliged to cut short our remarks on the Moose,
+particularly as it is a representative of the same family. This
+animal is the largest of the Deer tribe, being seven or eight feet
+in height and often weighing over fifteen hundred pounds. It is
+supplied with immense flat spreading horns, sometimes expanding to
+the distance of six feet between the tips. It is found in Maine,
+Oregon and Washington Territories, and in the neighborhood of the
+great lakes, and inhabits the regions as far
+[Page 220]
+north as the Arctic Sea. Its color is yellowish brown. The fur is
+thicker in winter than summer, and on the neck of the animal the
+hair is very coarse and hangs in an immense tuft of over a foot
+in length. The flesh is most excellent food and is much esteemed
+by trappers. The habits of the moose are in most respects identical
+with the deer, already described, and like them they form "yards"
+during the winter season.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In the North the moose is hunted on snow-shoes by the natives,
+and in summer they are shot like the deer. They are often very
+dangerous and terrible creatures to hunt, and the utmost care and
+skill, as described in regard to the deer, is required on the part
+of the hunter in order to avoid detection through the exquisite
+sense of smell which the animal possesses. The moose is easily
+trapped. The Newhouse, No. 6, is especially adapted for the purpose,
+and it should be chained to a clog of stone or wood of over fifty
+pounds in weight. Set the trap in the "yard," or beneath the snow
+where the moose frequents, or in the summer, or fall seasons, as
+described for the deer, using the same methods in regard to baiting,
+etc.
+
+Skin after the manner of cattle, and stretch the hide on a
+hoop-spreader. Page 275.
+
+
+ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.
+
+These creatures are natives of the entire range of the Rocky Mountains,
+and are especially prized on account of the superior quality of
+their flesh as food. They are much larger and more powerful than
+the domestic sheep, and the ram is provided with enormous curved
+horns. The wool of the animal is intermixed with coarse grey hairs,
+and the general appearance of the fur is russet grey, with the
+exception of the rump and under parts, which are of a dirty white
+color. The animal is generally very wary and retiring, and inhabits
+the most secluded and inaccessible mountain regions and rocky cliffs.
+
+They are easily captured by the steel trap (No. 5) set in their
+haunts. The dead-fall is also used in some instances. Remove the
+skin as described for the deer.
+
+
+THE BUFFALO.
+
+The Buffaloes or Bison of the Western plains is too well known
+to need description. They travel in migrating herds of thousands,
+and are found from Texas to British America. Their food
+[Page 221]
+consists chiefly of grass, of which the "Buffalo grass" is their
+great delight. They graze and travel through the day and rest by
+night. They are more the game of the hunter than the trapper, although
+the largest side Newhouse would effectually secure one of the animals.
+The Buffalo is generally hunted on horseback, the usual method
+being that of stealing into the drove while grazing, always moving
+against the wind in order to avoid being scented. The flesh is
+palatable and by many much relished. The Buffalo skins of commerce
+are furnished by the cows. The bull skins are almost devoid of fur
+on the hinder parts, the hair being confined to the huge heavy
+mass on the hump and mane. Skin the animal as described for the
+Moose.
+
+
+THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE.
+
+This sole American representative of the Antelope tribe we believe
+is seldom trapped; but as it is a well-known animal on the Western
+plains, a short mention of it is required here. In general shape
+this creature bears considerable resemblance to the deer, the form of
+the horn being its chief peculiarity, each one of which is provided
+with a single prong, from which the animal takes its name, of Prong
+Horn. The color of the body is brownish-yellow, with the exception
+of the rump and belly which are almost white. The Antelopes generally
+travel in herds, and are much hunted by the Indians who surround
+them and destroy them with heavy clubs. Like the deer, their sense
+of smell is especially keen and the same caution is required in
+hunting them. In size they are about the same as the Virginian
+Deer. They are wonderfully graceful in all their movements, and
+are even more fleet of foot than the deer. These Antelopes inhabit
+the Western Prairies and wooded borders from New Mexico northward,
+and their flesh is much esteemed as an article of diet. They may
+be caught in their feeding places, as recommended for the deer,
+using the same sized trap.
+
+The dead fall is also efficacious in their capture, and they are
+also sometimes taken in large pit-falls covered over with light
+sticks and leaves, to resemble the natural surroundings. On this
+false covering, the bait, consisting of green corn or other vegetables,
+is strewn and a high wall of logs or stones is erected around it,
+in order that the animal will be obliged to _jump_ slightly in
+order to reach the bait.
+
+Remove the hide as recommended for the deer.
+
+
+[Page 222]
+SHOOTING AND POISONING.
+
+Until the introduction of the steel-trap, shooting was a common
+method of taking fur bearing animals, and even to the present day
+it is quite prevalent in some localities. Anyone who has had any
+experience with the fur trade must have learned that furs which
+are "shot," are much affected in value. Some furriers will not
+purchase such skins at any price; and they never meet with any
+but a very low offer. "Trapped furs" and "shot furs" are terms of
+considerable significance in the fur trade, and anyone who wishes
+to realize from a profitable sale of his furs, should use his gun
+as little as possible. A shot grazing through the fur of an animal
+cuts the hairs as if with a knife, and a single such furrow is
+often enough to spoil a skin. It is these oblique grazing shots
+which particularly damage the fur, and an animal killed with a
+_shot gun_ is seldom worth skinning for the value of its pelt. If
+firearms are used, the rifle is preferable. If the animal chances
+to be hit broadside or by a direct penetrating bullet, the two
+small holes thus made may not particularly effect the value of its
+skin, although even then the chances are rather slight.
+
+Trapped furs are of the greatest value.
+
+The use of poison is objectionable as a means of capture in animals
+especially desired for their fur. Strychnine is the substance generally
+employed, and unless its victim is skinned _immediately_ after
+death the pelt becomes considerably injured by the absorption of
+the poison. It has the effect of loosening the fur and the hair
+sheds easily.
+
+The poison is principally used in the capture of Wolves and animals
+considered in the light of vermin. For a wolf or fox, the poison
+is mixed with lard or tallow and spread on pieces of meat, or a
+small amount of the powder is inclosed in an incision in the bait.
+The amount sufficient for a single dose may be easily held on the
+point of a knife blade, and death ensues in a a very few moments
+after the bait is taken. For a Bear the dose should be a half
+thimbleful, and it should be deposited in the centre of a piece
+of honey comb, the cells being emptied of their honey for that
+purpose.
+
+Other animals may be taken by proportionate quantities of the poison,
+but for general purposes we discourage its use.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 223]
+[Illustration: THE CAMPAIGN.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 225]
+BOOK VII.
+
+CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS.
+
+[Illustration: I]t has been the author's object in the preparation
+of this book not simply to content the reader with a mere superficial
+knowledge of so-called "Amateur trapping," but to carry him further
+into the art professionally considered, and for this reason we
+present in the following chapter a full catalogue of the trapper's
+outfit, containing detailed descriptions of all the necessaries for
+a most thorough campaign, including boats and canoes, log cabins,
+shanties and tents, snow shoes and camp furniture of all kinds,
+together with numerous and valuable hints on trapper's food.
+
+
+PLAN OF CAMPAIGN.
+
+The first thing to be considered in reference to a campaign is
+the selection of a trapping ground, and it is always desirable
+to choose a locality where travel by water can be resorted to as
+much as possible. Otter, mink, beaver and muskrat are among the
+most desirable game for the trapper, and as these are all amphibious
+animals, a watered district is therefore the best on all accounts.
+Lakes, ponds, and streams, bordered by wild woods, form the best
+possible grounds for general trapping, and the mountain lakes of the
+Adirondacks and Alleghenies, and all similar regions are especially
+desirable on this account. Almost any wild country, intersected
+with streams, lakes, and rivers, is apt to abound with game, and
+some trappers confine their labors to the borders of a single lake,
+and adjoining forest. This plan is especially to be recommended to
+the amateur, as much of the travelling to and fro can be done by boat,
+[Page 226]
+the labor being thus much lightened. Having decided upon the seat
+of operations, the young trappers should immediately set to work
+at building their shanties and boats. The home shanty is of the
+greatest importance, and should be constructed first. Select some
+flat bit of land near the water and clear it of brush wood, or
+other rubbish and proceed to work as described on page 242. A good
+axe is the only tool required by an experienced trapper in the
+construction of such a shanty. Should the trapping lines be very
+extensive, additional _bark_ shanties, page 245, will require to
+be made at intervals along the line, for sleeping stations and
+shelters in case of storm. The professional trapper generally attends
+to the building of his shanties and boats before the trapping season
+commences, and thus has everything in readiness for his campaign.
+If in a birch bark country the Indian canoe, page 260, is the most
+desirable craft, on account of its lightness and portability. The
+dug-out, or bateau, described on page 259, will also do good service.
+
+The trapping season begins in October, and everything should be
+in readiness at this time, so that the trappers may devote all
+their time strictly to business.
+
+The route of the professional trapper often extends over fifty
+miles, and the number and weight of traps and provisions which
+these rough-and-ready individuals often carry as personal luggage
+is most astounding. Fifty or sixty pounds apiece is considered a
+_fair_ burden, and they deem no one a fit physical subject for a
+campaign who cannot at least manage thirty pounds with comparative
+ease. The number of the trapping party generally consists of from
+two to four. A few days prior to the opening of the trapping season,
+the party start out, laden with their burden of traps and provisions,
+and deposit them at intervals along the line, the provisions being
+mainly kept in the "home shanty." Several trips may be necessary to
+complete these preparations, unless the trapping ground is readily
+accessible by wagon or boat, in which case the transportation is
+much easier.
+
+The "home shanty" is generally built only when the trapping grounds
+are far in the wilderness, miles away from civilization. If the
+line extends from the outskirts of some town or village, such a
+hut may be dispensed with. It is used principally as a storehouse
+for furs, provisions, ammunition, tools, and other valuables, and
+also serves as a point of rendezvous, or a home, for the trappers,
+one of the number being generally left in charge to "keep shanty"
+while his companions are on their tramps in search of game. If
+desired, a boy may be taken
+[Page 227]
+along for this especial purpose. In every case, some such guardian
+is very necessary, and particularly in wild districts, abounding in
+wolves and bears, as these animals have an odd trick of breaking
+into unguarded shanties, and often make sad havoc with its stores.
+Steel traps are almost exclusively used by the professional trapper,
+and the supply for a single campaign will often exceed one hundred
+and fifty. Many of the traps described in the early part of this
+work are also used, and for the amateur who has not the ready cash
+to layout in steel traps, are decidedly to be recommended and will
+be found very efficient. From thirty to fifty traps would be a fair
+number for an ordinary amateur trapping season, and the probable
+cost of such a lot would be from $15 to $25. The sizes of the traps
+will depend upon the game sought, No. 2-1/2 being a good average.
+With this supply, relying somewhat on dead-falls, twitch-ups, and
+the various other devices described in our early pages, we can
+guarantee lively sport, of course, presuming that good judgment has
+been used in the selection of a trapping ground. In later articles,
+under the proper headings, we give full details concerning food
+and cooking utensils, shelter and bedding, as well as many other
+requisites for the trapper's comfort. To complete the list he should
+provide himself with a good sharp axe, and hatchet, and if the
+log canoe is in anticipation he will also require the other tools
+mentioned on page 259 an oilstone being carried in order to keep the
+various tools in good repair; an auger, saw, and some large nails are
+also to be desired, and a small parcel containing needles, thread,
+pins, scissors, etc., will be found indispensable. "Cleanliness is
+next to Godliness," and there are no more luxurious necessities
+in camp life than a piece of soap and a clean towel. For light it
+is advisable to carry a supply of candles, or a lantern with a can
+of oil. The latter is, of course, more bulky, and for a campaign
+wholly on foot is hardly to be recommended on this account.
+
+Each trapper should be provided with a stout jack-knife, pocket-compass,
+and a supply of matches, a number of these being always carried on
+the person to provide for the emergencies to which the hunter is
+always subject.
+
+One of the party should carry a double-barrelled shot-gun and another
+a rifle, or both may be combined in a single weapon. A revolver
+is also a desirable acquisition. Purified neats-foot oil should
+be used on the fire-arms, and in lieu of this, some trappers use
+the melted fat of the grouse for the same purpose. A good supply
+of fishing tackle is almost indispensable, and
+[Page 228]
+with these valuable equipments the young trapper may defy the wilderness
+with all its hazards. With his traps, gun and rod, together with his
+store of provisions, he may look forward to a larder well stocked
+and may calculate on an appetite which will do it justice.
+
+The list of portable provisions and cooking utensils best adapted
+for a campaign are given under their proper title, and will be
+found to cover all the wants of the most fastidious. The stove
+is the most cumbersome article, but trappers generally dispense
+with its use altogether, looking at it rather in the light of a
+luxury as well as a nuisance. The open camp fire will answer every
+purpose, both for cooking and for comfort in cold weather.
+
+For clothing it is desirable to carry at least two suits, in order
+to have a "change." They should be of woolen, and from the _hunter's_
+point of view, should be of a sombre shade, so as to be as inconspicuous
+as possible. The use of high-top boots is to be deprecated, as they
+are tiresome and unwieldy. Short boots, with thick, iron-pegged
+soles, are generally preferred by trappers, and in order to render
+them soft, pliable, and waterproof they may be soaked or smeared
+with a hot mixture, composed of one part rosin, two parts beeswax,
+and three parts tallow. Simple tallow, or even the fat of the deer,
+is sometimes used for the same purpose.
+
+Calculating on a successful campaign, a supply of board-stretchers,
+page 273, will be needed for the curing of the skins, and if our
+adventurous enthusiasts should extend their experience along into
+the winter, the toboggan and snow-shoes will come into good use
+for convenient winter travel.
+
+The trapping season properly commences in October and ends in April.
+The pelts of fur bearing animals are in their best condition during
+this time, and in the winter are in their prime. The various modes
+of setting and baiting traps for all our leading animals are clearly
+set forth in another part of this volume. And in the accompanying
+engravings will be found life like representations of each species.
+
+In a trapping campaign it is an excellent plan to select a central
+point for the home shanty, extending the trapping lines in several
+directions therefrom, following the borders of the lakes or streams
+for the otter, beaver, mink and muskrat; and setting a few lines
+inland for the capture of martens, racoons, foxes, etc.
+
+For an amateur campaign this a most excellent and convenient
+[Page 229]
+arrangement, the lines may extend all the way from one to five miles
+each, and connect at their edges, the whole ground plan resembling the
+form of a wheel, the shanty corresponding to the hub, and the trapping
+lines the spokes, the tire representing the circuit connecting the
+various lines. Where the latter extend over many miles it is well
+to construct bark shanties at the limits. Let each trapper take
+a certain "spoke," and follow it to its terminus, returning on the
+adjacent line. On his arrival at the shanty he should immediately
+set to work skinning the animals taken, and stretching their furs.
+Full directions for skinning the various game are given under their
+respective titles, and the curing of skins is treated in detail
+in another chapter of this work. We also present a table of the
+comparative values of the various American furs at the present
+date of publication. Of course these values are constantly varying,
+but the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values
+of common and scarce furs. Great care should always be used in
+removing the skins from the various animals, as the final value
+of the fur much depends upon this. They should not be removed from
+the stretchers until perfectly dry, and should then be laid in a
+cool, airy place. When near a village or settlement it is advisable
+to send "into town" every few days with a batch of furs for safe
+keeping, and particularly so when the skins are valuable, and in
+cases where the home shanty is left unguarded. The value of prime
+otter or mink pelt is a matter of no small importance, and a good
+trapping ground furnishes a rare field for light fingered prowlers
+who are well posted on the market price of raw furs, and who are
+constantly on the lookout for such prizes, either in the shape
+of the prepared skin, or on the back of the live animal. These
+"trap robbers," or poachers, are the pests of trappers, and many
+have learned from dear experience the advisability of placing their
+choice furs beyond the reach of the marauders.
+
+The hut in which they are stored is nearly always kept guarded,
+and, where this is impracticable, the skins are hid in hollow trees,
+or carried to some near settlement, as we have already mentioned.
+
+If the campaign proves successful and promises well for another
+season, it is customary to hide the traps beneath rocks, thus saving
+the labor of a second transportation. In order to keep the traps
+from rusting, it is well to cover them with oat or buckwheat chaff.
+The rock should be first rolled from its resting place, and a bed
+of the chaff made beneath it, in which the traps should be covered,
+the rock being afterwards replaced. In a few such
+[Page 230]
+places all the traps may be effectually stored away, and they will
+be found in prime order and ready for business on the following
+season.
+
+In the months of September and October trappers are much annoyed by
+gnats and mosquitoes, and, as a preventive against the attacks of
+these pests, we give on page 255 some valuable receipts, which have
+stood the test of time, and are still the most effective remedies.
+The "smudge," consisting of a smouldering pile of birch bark is
+also used where the insects infest the tents or shanties by night.
+The bark should be dry, and should not be allowed to blaze. The
+smudge is generally placed at the entrance of the tent, and the
+trapper may then take his choice between smoke or mosquitoes, both
+cannot exist together, and a tent infested with the blood-thirsty
+pests may be effectually cleared in a few minutes by the introduction
+of smoking brand for a few seconds. If the tent is now closely
+buttoned and the smudge kept burning directly outside, there will
+be no further trouble with the mosquitoes, and the odor of the
+smoke is, after all, but a slight annoyance and to some is even
+enjoyable after being once accustomed to it. When the home shanty
+is infested, it may be cleared in the same way, and by the aid of
+two or more smudges on the windward side may be kept free from
+the insects.
+
+
+FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS.
+
+The professional trapper on a campaign depends much upon his traps
+for his food, and often entirely contents himself with the subsistence
+thus gained. We _encourage_ and _believe_ in "roughing it" to a
+certain extent, but not to that limit to which it is often carried
+by many professional "followers of the trap" throughout our country.
+The course of diet to which these individuals subject themselves,
+would often do better credit to a half civilized barbarian than
+to an enlightened white man, and when it comes to starting on a
+campaign with no provision for food excepting a few traps, a gun, and
+a box of matches, and relying on a chance chip for a frying-pan, he
+would rather be "counted out." In ordinary cases we see no necessity
+for such deprivation, and, on the other hand, we decry the idea of
+transporting a whole kitchen and larder into the woods. There is
+a happy medium between the two extremes, whereby a light amount
+of luggage in the shape of cooking utensils and closely packed
+portable food, may render the wild life of the trapper very cozy
+and comfortable, and his meals a source of enjoyment, instead of a
+[Page 231]
+fulfilment of physical duty. What with the stock of traps, necessary
+tools, blankets, etc., the trapper's burden is bound to be pretty
+heavy, and it becomes necessary to select such food for transportation
+as shall combine the greatest amount of nutriment and the least possible
+weight, and to confine the utensils to those absolutely necessary
+for decent cooking.
+
+The trapper's culinary outfit may then be reduced to the following
+items, and in them he will find a sufficiency for very passable
+living.
+
+One of the most nutritious and desirable articles of food consists
+of fine sifted Indian meal; and it is the only substantial article
+of diet which many trappers will deign to carry at all.
+
+By some it is mixed with twice its quantity of wheat flour, and
+is thus used in the preparation of quite a variety of palatable
+dishes. One or two pounds of salt pork will also be found a valuable
+addition; boxes of pepper and salt and soda should also be carried.
+With these simple provisions alone, relying on his gun, traps and
+fishing tackle for animal food, the young trapper may rely on three
+enjoyable meals a day, if he is anything of a cook. Pork fritters
+are not to be despised, even at a hotel table; and with the above
+they can be made to suit the palate of the most fastidious.
+
+Indian meal is a valuable accessory with cooks generally, and to
+the trapper it often becomes his great "staff of life." If our
+young enthusiast desires to try his hand at roughing it to the
+fullest extent, compatible with common sense and the strength of an
+ordinary physical constitution, he may endeavor to content himself
+with the above portable rations; but with anything less it becomes
+too much like starvation to arouse our enthusiasm. For cooking
+utensils, a small frying-pan and a deep tin basin are indispensable;
+and a drinking cup is also to be desired. The kind known as the
+telescope cup, constructed in three parts, which close within each
+other, when not in use, possesses great advantages on account of
+its portability. With these one can get along pretty decently.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The pork fritters already mentioned form a favorite dish with trappers
+generally, and can be made in the following
+[Page 232]
+way; have at hand a thick batter of the Indian meal and flour;
+cut a few slices of the pork, and fry them in the frying-pan until
+the fat is tried out; cut a few more slices of the pork; dip them
+in the batter and drop them in the bubbling fat, seasoning with
+salt and pepper; cook until light brown and eat while hot. The
+question now arises, "What shall we eat them with?" If you are
+"roughing it," such luxuries as plates and knifes and forks are
+surely out of the question; and you must content yourself with
+a pair of chop sticks "a la Chinee," or make your jackknife do
+double purpose, using a flat chip or stone as a plate. A small
+tin plate may be added to the list of utensils if desired, but
+we are now confining ourselves to the "lowest limit" of absolute
+necessities. That wholesome dish known as "boiled mush," may come
+under the above bill of fare; and fried mush is an old stand-by
+to the rough and ready trapper. In the first case the Indian meal
+is slowly boiled for one hour, and then seasoned as eaten. It is
+then allowed to cool, and is cut in slices and fried in fat. Indian
+meal cakes are easily made by dropping a quantity of the hot mush
+in the frying-pan, having previously stirred in a small quantity
+of soda, and turning it as soon as the lower side is browned. A
+Johnny cake thus made is always appetizing, and with the addition
+of a little sugar, it becomes a positive luxury. Hoe cakes, so
+much relished by many, can be made by mixing up a quantity into
+a thick mass, adding a little soda. Bake in the fire on a chip or
+flat stone. The trapper's ground is generally in the neighborhood
+of lakes or streams, and fresh fish are always to be had. They
+may be cooked in a manner which would tempt a city epicure; and
+when it comes to the cooking of a fresh brook trout, neither a
+Prof. Blot nor a Delmonico can compete with the trapper's recipe.
+The trout is first emptied and cleaned through a hole at the neck,
+if the fish is large enough to admit of it; if not, it should be
+done by a slit up the belly. The interior should be carefully washed
+and seasoned with salt and pepper; and in the case of a large fish,
+it should be stuffed with Indian meal. Build a good fire and allow
+the wood to burn down to embers; lay the fish in the hot ashes
+and cover it with the burning coals and embers; leave it thus for
+about half an hour, more or less, in proportion to the size of the
+fish (this may be easily determined by experiment); when done,
+remove it carefully from the ashes, and peel off the skin. The
+clean pink flesh and delicious savor which now manifest themselves
+will create an appetite where none before existed. All the delicate
+[Page 233]
+flavor and sweet juices of the fish are thus retained, and the trout
+as food is then known in its perfection.
+
+By the ordinary method of cooking, the trout loses much of its
+original flavor by the evaporation of its juices; and although
+a delicious morsel in any event, it is never fully appreciated
+excepting after being roasted in the ashes, as above described.
+
+The other method consists in rolling the fish in the Indian meal
+and frying it in the frying-pan with a piece of the salt pork.
+Seasoning as desired.
+
+Partridges, ducks, quail, and other wild fowl are most delicious
+when cooked in the ashes as described for the trout. The bird should
+be drawn in the ordinary manner, and the inside washed perfectly
+clean. It should then be embedded in the hot coals and ashes, the
+feathers having been previously saturated with water. When done,
+the skin and feathers will easily peel off, and the flesh will
+be found to be wonderfully sweet, tender, and juicy. A stuffing
+of pounded crackers and minced meat of any kind, with plenty of
+seasoning, greatly improves the result, or the Indian meal may be
+used if desired. A fowl thus roasted is a rare delicacy. A partridge,
+squirrel, pigeon, woodcock, or any other game can be broiled as
+well in the woods as at home, using a couple of green-branched
+twigs for a spider or "toaster," and turning occasionally. For
+this purpose the bird should be plucked of its feathers, cleanly
+drawn and washed, and spread out by cutting down the back. Venison,
+moose, or bear meat, can be deliciously roasted in joints of several
+pounds before a good fire, using a green birch branch as a spit,
+and resting it on two logs, situated on opposite sides of the fire.
+The meat can thus be occasionally turned and propped in place by
+a small stick, sprinkling occasionally with salt and pepper. The
+above manner of making the fire is that adopted by most woodsmen.
+Two large green logs, of several feet in length, being first laid
+down at about three feet distant, between these the fire is built,
+and when a kettle is used a heavy pole is so arranged as to project
+and hold it over the fire. A cutlet of venison fried in the pan
+is delicious, and a "Johnny cake" cooked in the fat of this meat
+is a decided dainty.
+
+With the above hints for a "rough and ready" campaign, we think
+the young trapper ought to be able to get along quite comfortably.
+
+We will now pass on to the consideration of what the average
+[Page 234]
+professional trapper would call "luxuries." The stock of these
+depends much upon the location of the trapping ground. If accessible
+by wagon or boat, or both, they may be carried in unlimited quantities,
+but when they are to be borne on the back of the trapper through
+a pathless wilderness of miles, the supply will, of course, have
+to be cut short. When two or three start out together it becomes
+much easier, one carrying the traps and tools; another the guns,
+cooking utensils, etc.; the third confining his luggage to the food.
+One of the most necessary requisites for a journey on foot consists
+in a knapsack or large square basket, which can be easily strapped
+to the back of the shoulders, thus leaving the hands free. Matches
+are absolutely indispensable, and a good supply should be carried.
+They should always be enclosed in a large-mouthed bottle with a
+close fitting cork, to prevent their being damaged by moisture. For
+further safety in this regard the matches may be rendered perfectly
+water-proof by dipping their ends in thin mastic or shellac varnish.
+If not at hand, this varnish can be easily made by dissolving a
+small quantity of either sort of gum in three or four times its
+bulk of alcohol. It is well to dip the whole stick in the solution,
+thereby rendering the entire match impervious to moisture. Lucifer
+matches are the best, and, when thus prepared, they may lay in
+water for hours without any injury. It is a fearful thing to find
+oneself in the wilderness, cold and hungry, and without the means
+of lighting a fire, and to prepare for such an emergency it is
+always advisable to be provided with a pocket sun glass. So long as
+the sun shines a fire is thus always to be had, either by igniting
+a small quantity of powder (which the trapper is always supposed
+to carry) or using powdered "touch wood" or "punk tinder" in its
+place. Fine scrapings from dry wood will easily ignite by the sun
+glass, and by fanning the fire and adding additional fuel it will
+soon burst into flame. In cloudy weather, and in the absence of
+matches, a fire may easily be kindled by sprinkling a small quantity
+of powder on a large flat stone, setting a percussion cap in its
+midst, and covering the whole with dry leaves. A smart strike on
+the cap with a hammer will have the desired result, and by heaping
+additional fuel on the blazing leaves the fire soon reaches large
+proportions. If the young trapper should ever be so unfortunate
+as to find himself in the wild woods, chilled and hungry, minus
+matches, powder, caps, and sun glass, he may as a last resort try
+the following: Scrape some lint or cotton from some portion of
+the garment, or some tinder from a dry stick, and lay it on the
+[Page 235]
+surface of some rough rock, white quartz rock if it can be found.
+Next procure a fragment of the same stone, or a piece of steel from
+some one of the traps, and strike its edge sharply, and with a
+skipping stroke into the further side of the tinder, the direction
+being such as will send the sparks thus produced into the inflammable
+material. Continue this operation until the tinder ignites. By now
+gently fanning the smoking mass it may easily be coaxed into flame.
+At least so our Adirondack guide told us last summer. The author has
+never had occasion to test the merits of the plan for himself, and
+has no special desire of being so placed, as that his life will hang
+upon its success. He presents it therefore as a mere suggestion
+without endorsing its practicability, and would rather prefer matches
+in the long run. The open fire generally serves both for purposes
+of warmth and cooking, but by many, a camp stove is considered a
+great improvement. Stoves of this character, and for this especial
+purpose, are in the market. They are small and portable, with pipe
+and furniture, all of which pack away closely into the interior.
+A fire is easily started in one of these stoves, and, by closing
+the damper, a slow fire may be kept up through the night. The stove
+is generally set up at the entrance of the tent, the pipe passing
+through the top, in a hole near the ridge pole. The furniture consists
+of three pots or kettles, which pack easily into each other, and
+when in the stove still leave ample room for a considerable amount
+of provisions.
+
+The kettles are made of block-tin, and frying-pans also, as these
+are much more light and portable than those made of iron. The lid
+may be used as a plate, and for this purpose the handle consists
+of an iron ring, which will fold flat against the surface when
+inverted. Knives, forks, and spoons are easily stowed away in the
+stove or knapsack, and a coffee-pot should always be carried. There
+is a knife known as the combination camp-knife, which is much used
+by hunters and trappers, and contains a spoon, fork, knife, and
+various other useful appendages, in a most compact form. It costs
+from one to two dollars.
+
+For provisions, potatoes will be found excellent, both on account
+of their portability and the variety of ways in which they may be
+served. They are healthy and nutritions, and always palatable.
+Beans are also very desirable for the same reasons. Wheat flour will
+form a valuable addition to the trapper's larder, and particularly
+so, if the "self-raising" kind can be had. This
+[Page 236]
+flour contains all the required ingredients for light bread and
+biscuit, and is sold by grocers generally, in packages of various
+sizes, with accompanying recipes. We strongly recommend it where
+a stove is employed; and to anyone who is fond of biscuit, bread,
+or pancakes, it will be appreciated. Butter, lard, sugar, salt,
+pepper and mustard are valuable accessories, and curry-powder,
+olive oil, and vinegar will often be found useful. Olive oil is
+often used by camping parties with the curry powder, and also as
+a substitute for lard in the frying-pan. Pork, Indian meal and
+crackers, wheaten grits, rice, and oat-meal are desirable, and
+coffee and tea are great luxuries. For soups, Liebig's extract of
+beef is a most valuable article, and with the addition of other
+ingredients, vegetables or meat, the result is a most delicious and
+nutritious dish. This extract is obtainable at almost any grocer's,
+and full directions and recipes accompany each jar. Canned vegetables
+are much to be desired on account of their portability, and are
+never so delicious as when cooked over a camp fire. Lemonade is
+always a luscious beverage, but never so much so as to a thirsty
+trapper. A few lemons are easily carried and will repay the trouble.
+
+All provisions, such as meal, flour, sugar, salt, crackers, and the
+like, should be enclosed in water-proof canvas bags, and labelled.
+The bags may be rendered water-proof either by painting, (in which
+case no _lead_ or arsenic paints should be used) or by dipping in
+the preparation described on page 247. If these are not used, a
+rubber blanket, page 250, may be substituted, the eatables being
+carefully wrapped therein, when not in use. The butter and lard
+should be put up in air-tight jars, and should be kept in a cool
+place, either on the ground in a shady spot, or in some cool spring.
+
+For a campaign on foot, the knapsack, or shoulder-basket, already
+alluded to on page 234, is an indispensable article. It should
+be quite large and roomy, say fifteen inches in depth and ten by
+twelve inches in its other dimensions. The material should be canvas,
+rubber cloth, or wicker, and, in any case, the opening at the top
+should have a water-proof covering extending well over the sides.
+The straps may consist of old suspender bands, fastened crosswise
+on the broad side of the bag. The capacity of such a knapsack is
+surprising, and the actual weight of luggage seems half reduced
+when thus carried on the shoulders. When three or four trappers
+start together, which is the usual custom, and each is provided
+with such a shoulder basket, the luggage can be thus divided, and
+the load for each individual much lightened.
+
+[Page 237]
+Venison is the trapper's favorite food, and in mild weather it
+sometimes happens that the overplus of meat becomes tainted before
+it can be eaten. To overcome this difficulty the following process
+is resorted to, for the preservation of the meat, and the result
+is the well-known and high-priced "jerked venison" of our markets.
+The flesh is first cut into small, thin strips, all the meat being
+picked off from the bones. The pieces are then placed on the inside
+of the hide of the animal and thoroughly mixed with salt, a pint
+and a half being generally sufficient. The salt being well worked
+in, the fragments should be carefully wrapped in the hide, and
+suffered to remain in this condition for two or three hours. The
+meat is then ready to be dried,--"jerked."
+
+Four forked poles should be first driven into the ground, about
+six feet apart, in the form of a square, the forks being four feet
+above ground. Lay two poles of green wood across the forks on the
+two opposite sides of the square, and cover the space between them
+by other poles laid across them, an inch or two inches apart. On
+to this mammoth gridiron the strips of flesh should now be spread,
+and a steady fire of birch or other clean, fresh wood should be
+kept steadily burning beneath for about twenty-four hours. At the
+end of this time the meat will have reduced much in size and weight.
+The salt will have been thoroughly _dried in_, and the flesh so
+prepared may be kept for almost any length of time. In its present
+condition it is excellent eating, and it is always at hand for
+frying, and may be cooked in a variety of ways. Moose and bear meat
+may be dried in a similar manner, using a proportionate amount of
+salt. Fish may also be prepared in the same way, for which purpose
+they should be scaled as usual and afterward spread open by cutting
+down the back, the bone being removed. We cordially recommend this
+method of preparing both flesh and fish, and no trapper's "recipe
+book" is complete without it.
+
+In localities where wolves abound, the nocturnal invasions of these
+creatures often render the keeping of fresh meat a very difficult
+task, and in this connection it may be well to give directions
+for the preservation of game desired to be used either as fresh
+meat or for purposes of drying.
+
+The spring-pole is most commonly and successfully used.
+
+Select some stout sapling, bend it down, and cut off a limb several
+feet from the ground. Hang the meat in the crotch thus formed, and
+allow the tree to swing back. By dividing the meat into several
+parts it may thus all be protected. When
+[Page 238]
+a moose or deer is killed at such a time or place, or under such
+circumstances as render its immediate dressing impossible, its
+carcass may be defended against mutilation by another means. Wolves
+are naturally sly and sagacious, and have a wholesome fear of a
+trap. Any unnatural arrangement of logs and stones immediately
+excites their suspicion, and the trapper takes advantage of this
+wary peculiarity to good purpose. Laying his dead game near some
+fallen tree or old log he strews a few branches over the carcass,
+or perhaps rests a log over it. Sometimes he hangs the entrails of
+the animal over the body, on a forked stick, anyone of which devices
+is said to have the desired result. The wolverine is another pest to
+the trapper, and not being so sly as the wolf, never hesitates to
+pounce upon any flesh within its reach. The former method, therefore,
+is always the safest plan for absolute protection against all animals.
+
+The moose and deer are the favorite food of trappers in the country
+where these animals abound, and the trappers of the Far West find
+in the flesh of the Moufflon, or Rocky Mountain sheep, a delicacy
+which they consider superior to the finest venison. The prong-horn
+antelope of the Western plains is another favorite food-animal
+with hunters, and the various "small game," such as squirrels,
+rabbits, woodchucks, etc., are by no means to be despised. The
+author once knew a trapper who was loud in his praises of "skunk
+meat" for food, and many hunters can testify to its agreeable flavor
+when properly dressed and cooked. It is hard, to be sure, to getup
+much enthusiasm over a skunk, dead or alive, but where other food
+is not to be had we would discourage the young trapper from being
+too fastidious.
+
+The buffalo, or bison, is the great resource of the trappers of the
+West. The tongue, tenderloin and brisket are generally preferred,
+but all the meat is eatable. The flesh of the cow is best. It much
+resembles beef, but has a more gamey flavor. In winged game there
+is no food superior to the flesh of the grouse, and the great number
+of the species and wide range of territory which they inhabit render
+them the universal food game of trappers throughout the world. The
+ruffed grouse or partridge, pinnated grouse or prairie hen, spruce
+or Canada grouse, and the cock-of-the-plains or sage cock, are
+familiar American examples of the family, and their near relatives,
+the ptarmigans, afford a valuable source of food to the trappers
+and hunters, as well as general inhabitants of our northern cold
+countries. Here they are known as "snow grouse," and there are
+[Page 239]
+several species. The willow ptarmigan is the most common, and in Rome
+localities exists in almost incredible numbers. Flocks numbering
+several thousand have been frequently seen by travellers in the
+Hudson's Bay territory; and the surface of the snow in a desirable
+feeding ground, is often completely covered by the birds, in quest
+of the willow tops, which form their chief food during the winter
+season. The Indians and natives secure the birds in large numbers,
+by the trap described on page 75, and Hearne, the traveller and
+explorer of the Hudson's Bay region, asserts that he has known over
+three hundred to be thus caught in a single morning, by three persons.
+
+Of water fowl, ducks and geese are especially to be recommended.
+The former are hunted with decoys and boats, and are sometimes
+trapped, as described on pages 94. The species are distinguished
+as sea ducks and river or inland ducks. The latter are considered
+the most desirable for food, being more delicate and less gamey in
+flavor than the salt-water, or fish-eating varieties. The mallard,
+teal, muscovy, widgeon, and wood-chuck are familiar species of the
+inland birds, and the merganser and canvass-back are the two most
+esteemed salt-water varieties. Wild geese are common throughout North
+America, and may be seen either in the early spring or late fall
+migrating in immense numbers. They form a staple article of food
+in many parts of British America, and great numbers are salted down
+for winter supply. They are trapped in large numbers, as described
+on page 75, and are hunted with tame geese as decoys, the hunter
+being secreted behind a screen or covert, and attracting the game
+by imitating their cries.
+
+Fish form an agreeable change to the trapper's diet, and may be
+caught by the hook and line, or by spearing. The latter method
+requires considerable practice and skill, but is very successful.
+The Indians of the North are great experts in the use of the spear,
+and the number of salmon taken by them annually is enormous. The
+spear generally consists of five or six steel prongs an inch apart
+and barbed at the ends. It is mounted on a heavy handle, and when it
+strikes its victim its grip is sure death. The spearing is generally
+performed either at the spawning beds or at the falls.
+
+Salmon trout are generally speared in the night time by boat, the
+spawning ground, generally a gravel bank near the shore, being
+the seat of operations. A fire of pitch pine and birch bark is
+ignited on an elevated "jack" in the bow of the boat, the "jack"
+consisting of an ox-muzzle, or other concave wire contrivance
+[Page 240]
+which will hold the inflammable materials. This is secured to a
+post or crotched stick, as a prop, and the spearman stands near
+the burning mass with his spear in readiness. As his companion in
+the stern of the boat paddles, he keenly watches for his victim,
+and, seeing his opportunity, makes his lunge and lands his prize.
+To become a successful spearman requires much practice and no small
+degree of skill. To retain one's balance, acquire quickness of stroke,
+and withal to regulate the aim so as to allow for the refraction of
+the light in the water, all tend to invest the sport with a degree
+of skill which only experience can master.
+
+Fishing through the ice in winter is a rare sport, and large numbers
+of brook and lake trout are often taken at this season by cutting
+holes through the ice and fishing with hook and line. The baits
+commonly used consist of cow's udder or hog's liver, these being
+especially preferred on account of their toughness. Angle worms
+are also excellent, and any kind of raw meat may be used if other
+bait is not to be had.
+
+It is asserted by some sportsmen that bait scented with assafoetida
+is much more attractive to the fish, and will insure a capture
+which would otherwise be impossible. Sweet cicily and anise are
+also used for the same purpose. When the trout bite lively, fishing
+through the ice is a most exciting sport, and by the aid of "tip-ups"
+a single person may command a great number of lines. The winter
+resort of the brook trout is in water two or three feet deep, over
+sandy beds. The lake trout frequent deeper water.
+
+The holes are made in the ice at intervals of one or two rods, and
+a line set in each hole.
+
+The "tip-up" consists of a narrow strip of lath or shingle, with
+a hole bored through it near the large end. At this end the line
+is attached, and the hook thrown in the water. A branch is now
+inserted through the aperture, and its ends are rested across the
+opening in the ice. No sooner does the fish bite than the long
+end tips straight in the air, and thus betrays its captive. Ten
+or fifteen of these contrivances will often keep one pretty busy,
+and do good service. By some an ordinary cut fish pole, arranged on
+a crotch, is used instead of the tip-ups just described. Pickerel
+fishing through the ice is a favorite winter sport in many localities.
+The line should be about thirty feet in length, and the bait should
+consist of a small, live fish, hooked through the back. A small cork
+float should be attached to the line at such a distance as will keep
+[Page 241]
+the bait above the bottom, and the superfluous line should be laid
+in a loose coil near the hole, the end being attached to a small
+switch or bush, stuck up in the ice near by. The pickerel, on taking
+the bait, should be allowed to play out the whole line before being
+pulled in, as the fish requires this time to fully swallow his
+prey, after which the hook is sure to hold him firmly. Twenty or
+thirty lines may thus be attended at once, the bush or twig acting
+the part of a tip-up, or sentinel.
+
+Pickerel spearing is another successful mode of capture during
+the winter months. A large hole is made in the ice, in about two
+feet of water, and covered by a spacious box or board hut, six or
+seven feet square, and provided with a door. The spearman, concealed
+within, lowers his bait, consisting of an artificial fish with
+silver fins, made especially for the purpose. This he continually
+twirls in the water, and as the pickerel approaches the bait, he
+gradually raises it, until the fish is decoyed nearly to the surface
+of the water, when a quick stroke of the spear secures his victim,
+and the line is again lowered. This is capital sport, and is very
+successful.
+
+There is a very curious device for fishing by night commonly employed
+by some anglers, and sometimes known as the "lantern, or fish trap."
+Many kinds of fish are attracted by a light, but to use a light
+as a bait, submerged beneath the water, certainly seems odd. It
+may be done, however, in the following way: The "fish lantern"
+used for this purpose consists of a bottle containing a solution
+of phosphorus in sweet oil. Procure a piece of the stick phosphorus
+the size of a small cherry, and submerging in a saucer of water,
+proceed to cut it into small pieces. Have in readiness a three-ounce
+white glass bottle half filled with sweet oil. Drop the pieces of
+phosphorus into the oil and cork the bottle tightly. In the space
+of a few hours the phosphorus will have been completely dissolved,
+and the contents of the bottle will present a thick, luminous fluid,
+which in a dark room, will afford considerable light. This is the
+fish lantern. To use it, the cork is firmly inserted and the bottle,
+with fish line attached, is lowered through the hole in the ice.
+The water becomes luminous for several feet around, and the unusual
+brightness attracts the fish in large numbers. They are plainly,
+discernible, and are readily dispatched with the spear, or captured
+by a circular net, sunk on the bottom, beneath the luminous bait.
+This is certainly an odd way of catching fish, but it is often
+a very efficacious method.
+
+It has not been our intention to enter very extensively into
+[Page 242]
+the subject of fishing, but only to give such hints as will be
+found especially useful and practical to the trapper in relation
+to his food. The above methods, together with those of trolling
+and fly-fishing, are those most commonly employed by trappers and
+hunters generally, and we commend them to the amateur.
+
+We give, on page 120, a unique device for the capture of fish, which
+might also be found useful.
+
+With the above general remarks on the campaign, together with what
+follows in the detailed articles on the subject, we think that the
+ground will have been completely covered. Every possible requirement
+has been anticipated, and every ordinary emergency foreseen and
+provided against.
+
+
+THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.
+
+The life of the professional trapper is a life of hardship and
+severe exposure, and a man not only requires considerable courage,
+but also great bodily vigor, in order to combat successfully the
+dangers of such a wild, adventuresome existence.
+
+The cold and the storm not only imperil his life, but he is often
+exposed to the attacks of wild beasts. A shelter, therefore, in one
+form or another, becomes a necessity while it is always a decided
+comfort, in comparison to a campaign without it.
+
+The reader will find below descriptions of the various shelters
+alluded to in other parts of this work, and used by trappers throughout
+the land.
+
+The most substantial of these is the log shanty, commonly known among
+trappers as the "home shanty," on account of its being constructed
+as the only permanent shelter on the trapping line.
+
+It is used as a "home," a place of rendezvous, and a storehouse
+for provisions, furs, and other necessities and valuables. Other
+temporary shelters, known as bark shanties, are also constructed
+along the trapping lines at intervals of five or ten miles, as
+resting places. These we describe under the proper title.
+
+Although, to the amateur trapper, the log shanty is not likely
+to become a necessity, we will nevertheless describe its mode of
+construction, in order to satisfy our more earnest and adventurous
+readers, who aspire to a full taste of wild life.
+
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of such a shanty.
+
+[Page 243]
+[Illustration: THE HOME SHANTY.]
+
+[Page 244]
+It may be constructed of any size, but one of about twelve by ten
+feet will be found large enough for ordinary purposes. Select straight
+logs, about eight inches in diameter. The whole number required
+will be thirty-six. Of these one-half should be twelve feet in
+length and the other ten. These should now be built up in the square
+form, on a level piece of ground, laying the ends of the logs over
+each other, and securing them by notches at the corners, so deep as
+to allow the edges of the logs to meet. Lay two short logs first,
+and continue building until all the thirty-six logs are used, and
+we will now have four symmetrical sides about six feet in height.
+The place for the door should now be selected. The uppermost log
+should form its upper outline, and the two sides should be cleanly
+and straightly cut with a crosscut saw. The window openings, one or
+more, may next be cut, commencing beneath the second log from the
+top, and taking in three beneath it. Replace the logs above, and
+on the ends of those thus cut, both in windows and doors, proceed
+to spike a heavy plank, driving two nails into each log, about
+five inches apart, one above the other. This will hold them firmly
+in place, and offer a close-fitting jam for the door, and neat
+receptacle for the window sashes, which latter may now be put in
+after the ordinary manner.
+
+The gable ends should next be built upon the smaller sides of the
+hut. Commence by laying a long log (notched as before) across the
+top of the frame work, and about two feet inside the edge. This
+should of course be done on both sides of the hut, after which
+they should be overlapped at the corners with logs eight feet in
+length. Next lay two more long logs, parallel with the first two,
+and about a foot inside them, notching as before. The ends of these
+should be spanned with beams eight feet in length. Two more long
+logs are next in order--let them be one foot inside the last two.
+Overlap these with beams five feet and a half in length, and in
+the exact centre of these last pieces chop notches for a heavy
+log for a ridge pole. The gable outline, direct from the ridge
+pole to the eaves, should now be cut off by the aid of a sharp
+axe. This may be done either while the pieces are in position, or
+the line may be marked with a piece of chalk, and the logs taken
+down in order to accomplish it. The roof is now required. This
+should consist either of strips of bark or the rounded sides of
+logs split off and hollowed into troughs. The latter method is
+preferable, on account of its greater strength and durability,
+but the bark will answer the purpose very well, and is much more
+easily obtained. The manner of adjusting the roof pieces is clearly
+[Page 245]
+shown in our illustration. The first row is laid on with the hollow
+side up, securing them at top and bottom by nails driven through each
+into the ridge pole and eaves-log, care being taken that one of these
+pieces projects well over the gable, on both ends of the hut. These
+pieces are now overlapped by the second row, and with the addition
+of the large piece which covers them all at the ridge pole, the
+roof is complete, and will stand a heavy rain with little or no
+leaking. The crevices should now be stopped with moss, dried grass
+or clay, after which the log cabin is complete. When the bark roof
+is made, additional poles may be inserted beneath as props. They
+should be three or four inches in diameter, and run parallel with
+the ridge pole, at intervals on the slope, notches being cut to
+secure them.
+
+Our engraving represents a chimney, which may be constructed if
+desired, but the necessity of this may be done away with by using
+a small camp stove, and making a small opening in the gable end
+of the hut for the passage of the pipe. If it stove should not
+be at hand, and our amateur should decide to "rough it" to the
+full extent, he may build his fire-place and chimney as follows:
+It will be necessary to cut away an opening in the logs at the
+gable end, as was done for the door and windows. This should be
+about three feet square, and the fire place should be built of
+stone and clay, or cement, to fill the opening, and project inside
+the hut.
+
+The chimney may then be built up outside in the same manner,
+sufficiently high to overtop the gables.
+
+Inside the hut overhead will be found abundant room for the hanging
+of the skins, and any number of cross-poles may be rested across
+the beams. There are facilities for the swinging of a hammock,
+if desired, and, in fact, a hut constructed like the foregoing
+is a perfect one in its way. There are other methods of building
+a log cabin, but we will content ourselves with what we consider
+the _best_ way of all, and pass on to the
+
+
+BARK SHANTY.
+
+This is made by first driving into the ground two forked poles
+seven or eight feet in height and stout enough to sustain a ridge
+pole of moderate size. Against this ridge pole other poles should
+be rested at intervals of two feet, and sloping to the angle of
+forty-five degrees. The frame-work thus formed should now be covered
+with bark, commencing at the ground and allowing the edge of each
+piece to overlap the one beneath
+[Page 246]
+after the manner of shingles, in order to shed the rain in case
+of storm. Spruce or birch bark are excellent for this purpose,
+and the pieces may be secured with nails, and kept flat by the
+weight of another series of poles rested against them. The sides
+of the shelter should be treated similarly, the front being usually
+left open to face the fire, which the trapper generally builds a
+few feet distant. In constructing a bark shanty, it is well to
+select some spot protected from the wind, close to the foot of a
+mountain or in the midst of trees, always letting the open side
+face the direction most sheltered.
+
+If desired, the front can be enclosed after the manner of the sides
+and top, but this is not required where the fire is used.
+
+This style of shelter is represented in our page title to this section,
+and certainly looks very comfortable.
+
+
+TENTS.
+
+Shanties like the foregoing are in general use among the old veteran
+trappers of all countries, and even to the amateur there is a charm
+in a shelter constructed from the rude materials of the woods which
+the portable tents do not possess.
+
+Tents, however, are much used both by professionals and amateurs,
+and are indeed valuable acquisitions to the trapper's outfit, and
+where time is valuable, do away with the labor which the construction
+of a hut or shanty involves.
+
+Tents are of several kinds. Those most commonly used by the trapper
+are the house-tent, fly-tent, and half-tent, or shelter-tent.
+
+The first of these is made for prop-poles and a ridge pole, closed
+on one end and buttoning up at the other. The sides are perpendicular
+for two or three feet, before the slope commences, and the stay-ropes
+are fastened to the eaves.
+
+The fly-tent is generally a large, square piece of canvas, with
+ropes extending from opposite sides. This is thrown over a ridge
+pole, or over a rope extending between two trees, and the sides
+are held to the proper slope by tightening and pegging the side
+ropes to the ground. Fly-tents are also made with ends, which can
+be lowered, and the whole tent may be pegged close to the ground.
+
+The shelter-tent, when erected, resembles, in general shape, the
+bark shanty already described. It consists of a strip of canvas,
+having each end cut off to a point. The tent is pitched over three
+slanting poles, and the ends are brought down and securely pegged.
+This is clearly shown in our illustration.
+
+[Page 247]
+[Illustration]
+
+We do not propose giving any extended directions for making tents,
+as they are a staple article of trade, and, as a general thing, can
+be bought for a figure which would render their domestic manufacture
+of little saving or profit. The shelter-tent, however, is so useful
+an affair, and withal so very simple made, that we will give a few
+directions in regard to its manufacture. It should be made from
+stout _cotton drilling_, or very heavy sheeting. Let the piece
+be about thirteen feet in length by six in width. Each end of the
+piece should now be cut to a rectangular point, commencing to cut
+at a distance of three feet from each corner. In order to render
+the cloth waterproof, it should now be dipped in a pail containing
+a solution of equal parts of alum and sugar of lead, a couple of
+handfuls of each, in tepid water. It should be allowed to remain
+several minutes in soak, being dipped and turned occasionally,
+after which it should be spread out to dry. This treatment not
+only renders the cloth impervious to rain, but the alum tends to
+make it fire-proof also. A spark from the fire falling upon a tent
+thus prepared, will often rest upon the cloth until it goes out,
+without doing the slightest damage.
+
+[Page 248]
+The manner of pitching the tent has already been alluded to, and
+is clear from our illustration. The poles should be three or four
+in number, and seven feet in length, inserted in the ground at the
+angle denoted. The two outside poles should be seven feet apart,
+and the intermediate ones equally disposed. The tent piece should
+now be laid over the poles, and the ends brought down and pegged
+to the ground at the apex, and rear corners of each side through
+loops, which should have been previously attached to these parts.
+A tent, thus arranged, affords a safe shelter from the wind or
+a moderate storm, and with a bright fire in front, is warm and
+comfortable.
+
+
+BEDS AND BEDDING.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Many a trapper does away with these commodities, merely rolling
+himself in a blanket and using his arm for a pillow; but we do
+not propose to encourage or recommend any such half-way comfort as
+this, when by a very little labor a portable bed can be prepared
+on which the weary hunter can rest as serenely as if slumbering
+on the congenial softness of a hair mattress. A bed of this kind
+we illustrate, and it can be made in the following manner: Procure
+a large piece of canvas, sacking or other strong, coarse material
+six and a half feet square. If a single piece of this size cannot
+be found, several parts may he sewed together to the required
+dimensions. After which two opposite sides should be firmly stitched
+[Page 249]
+together, thus forming a bottomless bag, if we may be allowed to use
+the expression. Two stout poles seven or eight feet in length and as
+large as the wrist should now be cut. Insert them through the bag,
+allowing the ends to project equally on each side. These ends should
+now be rested on two logs, one placed across each end of the canvas.
+In order to hold the poles in place notches should be cut in the logs
+at such distances as will draw the bag to its full width. The interior
+of the canvas should now be filled with dried grass, leaves, moss
+or spruce boughs, after which the bedstead and bed is complete.
+
+The yielding elasticity of the poles and the softness of the warm
+filling in the bag, give the effect of a spring and straw mattress
+combined, lifting the sleeper above the cold, damp ground, and by
+the addition of a blanket above, insuring warmth on all sides. If
+the logs are not at hand four forked stakes may be used, driving
+them firmly into the ground at such distances as will draw the
+bag to its full width, when the poles are rested upon them. If
+by the weight of the body the forked props should tend to incline
+towards each other this trouble may be easily remedied by inserting
+short poles as braces between them. If desired a bed of this kind
+may be used as a hammock and hung in a tree without much trouble.
+It is only necessary to secure the long poles firmly at their full
+width by a stout brace pole at the ends, letting the latter be
+deeply notched at the tips in order to receive the bed supports.
+The joints should then be tightly bound with stout twine in order
+to prevent slipping, after which the bed may be hung in mid-air
+by ropes at each end, and the tired trapper may swing himself to
+sleep with perfect comfort and safety. For this purpose the ropes
+should be attached at the joints, using a loop of six feet for
+each end. In the centre of this loop a small one should be made
+by doubling the rope and winding twine about it, leaving only a
+small aperture. Through these small loops, by the aid of other
+ropes, the bed is attached to the tree. By using this precaution
+the unpleasant experience of being turned or dumped out of bed
+will be impossible. For bed clothes a woollen blanket should always
+be carried, and if convenient a large bag of thick Canton flannel
+is a most excellent acquisition.
+
+Bags of this sort are in common use among amateur trappers, hunters
+and camping parties, and are very warm and comfortable. They should
+be nearly seven feet in length and of a "loose, easy fit." With
+one of these contrivances it is impossible to "kick the clothes
+off" and the warmth is continual instead
+[Page 250]
+of "intermittent," and even on the bare ground it is said to be
+sufficient protection. Hammocks are also in very general use, but
+we can confidently recommend the suspended bed above described
+as decidedly preferable.
+
+There are various kinds of hammocks in the market, from the light
+fibered silk, weighing only a few ounces, to the large corded variety
+of several pounds weight and capable of holding many persons. They
+are an established article of trade, and as the details of their
+manufacture would be of little practical use to the reader, we
+will leave them without further consideration. They can be had at
+almost any sporting emporium, at comparatively small cost.
+
+
+TENT CARPETING.
+
+We have described a most excellent contrivance for a bedstead and
+recommend its use whenever possible; but when the bed is desired
+to be made on the ground the following method is usually employed,
+by which the whole interior of the tent, hut or shanty is carpeted
+with a soft, even covering of green.
+
+Spruce or hemlock boughs are generally used, and should be from
+the tips of the branches where the wood is not too large. Commence
+at the back part of the shelter, and lay down a row of the boughs
+with the butt of the branch towards the front. Overlap these with
+another nearer row and continue the operation, laying the evergreen
+as evenly as possible until the whole interior is smoothly covered.
+The projecting ends at the front, should now be secured by the
+weight of a medium sized log, or by a pole pegged down firmly at
+intervals. A similar log should now be laid at the back portion
+of the shelter over the tips of the boughs after which the bed
+is complete, and will be found easy and comfortable in proportion
+to the care and skill shown in its construction. A blanket should
+be thrown over the boughs before reclining to rest, as the fresh
+green gives forth considerable dampness.
+
+If possible a rubber blanket should be used for this purpose. These
+consist of thick Canton flannel, coated on one side with Indian
+rubber, and are used with the rubber side down. They are warm and
+comfortable, and a valuable acquisition to the trapper's outfit.
+There is a thinner and cheaper variety, having equal water-proof
+qualities but which does not possess the warmth of the former.
+Either will be found useful.
+
+So much for beds and bedding. If the reader will now turn
+[Page 251]
+his attention to the following section, "The Trapper's Miscellany,"
+he will find much in detail of what has only been alluded to in the
+present chapter, besides other hints of great value in reference
+to a trapping campaign.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 253]
+[Illustration: THE TRAPPERS' MISCELLANY]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 255]
+BOOK VIII.
+
+THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.
+
+[Illustration: O]ur enthusiastic novice, as he starts out into the
+wilderness, should not be unmindful of the swarms of blood-thirsty
+flies, gnats and mosquitoes, which infest the woods in the summer
+and early autumn, and are there lying in wait for him. These often
+become a source of great annoyance to the woodsman, and more often
+a source of positive bodily suffering.
+
+Although trapping is not generally carried on during this season,
+the preparations for the coming campaign, including the building
+of shanties, transporting of traps, etc., are generally made at
+this time, and unless some preventive is used, the persecutions of
+the mosquitoes and other winged vermin, become almost unbearable.
+
+
+INSECT OINTMENTS.
+
+These insects seem to have a special aversion for the scent of
+pennyroyal--an herb growing commonly in sandy localities--and a
+single plant rubbed upon the face and hands will often greatly
+check their attacks.
+
+The oil of pennyroyal is better, however, and an ointment made by
+straining one ounce of the oil into two or three ounces of pure
+melted lard, or mutton tallow, forms an excellent antidote. This
+may be carried in a little box or bottle, in the pocket, and applied
+as occasion requires. Plain mutton tallow is also a most excellent
+ointment for general use, and in the case of bruises or slight
+wounds, will give great relief.
+
+Another preparation in very common use amongst hunters and woodsmen,
+although not quite as agreeable in odor, consists of a mixture of
+common tar and sweet oil, in equal parts. By some this liniment
+is considered superior to the other, inasmuch as it also prevents
+tanning, and is beneficial to the complexion.
+
+[Page 256]
+During the night time, the tent or shanty often becomes swarmed
+with the winged pests, and their nocturnal assaults are proverbial
+for their pertinacity and severity. Their thirst for blood overcomes
+every other instinct, and pennyroyal often ceases to have any effect.
+Our Adirondack guide, in narrating his experience with these insect
+vampires, even says that on a certain night, becoming exasperated at
+their indomitable perseverance, and, getting tired of the monotonous
+occupation of spreading ointment, he arose, lit his candle, and drove
+the creatures out of the tent. He then buttoned up the opening, and
+retired to rest. A storm came up in the night, and so completely
+had his canvas been riddled by the bills of the mosquitoes, that
+the rain poured through his tent as through a sieve.
+
+We have heard of the man who, when pursued by hungry mosquitoes,
+took refuge beneath a large chaldron, and, by the aid of a stone,
+clinched the blood-thirsty bills as they protruded in quest of his
+life-blood, until, by the united efforts of the winged captives,
+the chaldron was lifted and wafted out of sight, as if it were a
+feather.
+
+One story is just as true as the other, and a summer in the Adirondack
+woods will tend to strengthen, rather than diminish, the belief in
+either.
+
+The smoke of smouldering birch bark will effectually drive away
+the mosquitoes from the tents at night. This method is commonly
+known as "the smudge," and is more fully described in another part
+of this work.
+
+The smell of the smoke is often unpleasant at first, but it is always
+preferable to the insect bites.
+
+Mosquitoes are not the only vampires which infest our wooded lands.
+The "punkeys" and "midgets" can outstrip them for voracity and the
+painful character of the wound which they inflict. The "punkey,"
+or "black-fly," as it is called, is a small, black gnat, about the
+size of a garden ant, and the bite of the insect often results
+very seriously. The midget is a minute little creature, and is the
+most everlastingly sticky and exasperating pest in the catalogue
+of human torments. They fly in swarms of thousands, and go for their
+victim "en masse" and the face, hands and neck are soon covered as
+if with "hay seed." They stick where they first light, and commence
+operations immediately. All endeavors to shake them off are fruitless,
+and their combined attacks are soon most painfully realized. Their
+bites produce great redness and swelling, and the itching is most
+intolerable. Happily for the woodsman, the "smudge"
+[Page 257]
+and pennyroyal ointment are effectual preventives against the attacks
+of both midgets and black flies, as well as mosquitoes; and no one
+who values his life or good looks should venture on a woodland
+excursion in the summer months without a supply of this latter
+commodity. In conclusion, we would remark that, to the mosquito
+the blood of the intemperate seems to have a special attraction,
+and anyone who wishes to enjoy comparative freedom from the attacks
+of these pests, should abstain from the use of alcoholic stimulants.
+It is a too prevalent idea among trappers that whiskey and rum are
+necessary adjuncts to a trapping campaign, and many a trapper would
+about as soon think of leaving his traps at home as his whisky bottle.
+This is all a mistake. Anyone who has not sufficient strength of
+constitution to withstand the hardships and exposures of a trapping
+life, without the especial aid of stimulants, should stay at home.
+We are now alluding to the _habitual_ use of such stimulants. It
+is always well to be provided with a flask of whisky or brandy,
+in case of illness, but it should only be resorted to in such an
+event. For a mere chill, we recommend the use of red pepper tea. A
+simple swallow of this drink, (made simply by soaking a red pepper
+in a cup of hot water) will restore warmth much quicker than three
+times the amount of any alcoholic stimulant. It is not our purpose to
+extend into a lengthened temperance lecture, but only to discourage
+the wide-spread idea that _stimulants_ are _necessities_ in the
+life of the trapper. Midgets, musquitoes and punkeys delight over
+a victim with alcohol in his veins, and while to a healthy subject
+the bites are of only brief annoyance, to the intemperate they
+often result in painful, obstinate sores.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In addition to the various ointments used, it is well to be provided
+with a head-net, such as we illustrate. Nets of this kind are specially
+made for sportsmen, and consist of a spiral wire framework, covered
+with mosquito netting, and of such a size to slip easily on the
+head.
+
+[Page 258]
+They are easily made, as our engraving would indicate.
+
+A netting attachment for the hat is also an acquisition, especially
+in open woods, free from overhanging branches or dense thickets.
+Such a netting may be secured to the edge of the hat brim, and
+gathered with an elastic at the lower edge. This elastic will close
+snugly around the neck when in use, and at other times may be drawn
+above the brim and allowed to rest on top of the crown.
+
+The portable hat brim, which we illustrate, is an article of trade
+in common use among sportsmen, and particularly the angler. Our
+engraving (_a_) shows the article separate. It is made of cloth,
+and is kept in its circular shape by a steel spring band at the
+circumference, between the two sides. It may be attached to any
+hat, and will act as a most effectual shelter to the rays of a
+hot sun.
+
+[Illustration: a]
+
+The netting above alluded to may be attached to such a brim, and
+applied to the edge of the hat when desired. This is shown at (_b_),
+which also indicates the manner of adjustment of the brim. Such a
+brim will often do good service, and may be obtained at almost any
+sporting emporium at trifling cost. It is portable in every sense
+of the word, being easily bent and packed away in the pocket.
+
+[Illustration: b]
+
+
+[Page 259]
+BOAT BUILDING.
+
+Where trapping is carried on along the banks of the lakes and rivers,
+a boat of some kind becomes almost a positive necessity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The following examples represent those in most general use. Perhaps
+the most common form of the "rough and ready" order of boats, is
+that called the--
+
+"DUG-OUT," OR LOG CANOE.
+
+It's general appearance is well indicated by the accompanying
+illustration. With the proper tools, one of these canoes is easily
+made. A sharp axe, an adze, a shaving knife, a round edged adze,
+and a small auger, are principally necessary; and a cross-cut saw,
+broad-axe, sledge, and large sized chisel, will also be found useful.
+
+In any case the log should not be much less than two feet in diameter,
+perfectly sound, and free from knots. If this precaution is observed,
+the result will be all the more satisfactory, and the canoe can be
+cut so thin, as to render it a light burden; being easily carried
+on the shoulders.
+
+A pine log is generally chosen for a dug-out, on account of the
+lightness of the wood, and the ease with which it can be worked.
+Butternut, cottonwood and whitewood, are also excellent, and indeed
+almost any sound log of large size will answer the purpose.
+
+For a dug-out of good size, the log should be ten or more feet
+in length. The first thing to be done is to cut a flat surface on
+one side of the log, from end to end. This indicates the bottom
+of the canoe. On the upper side the wood should be hewn away, in
+the curve shown on the upper outline of our illustration.
+
+[Page 260]
+It is well to divide the log by notches into three equal lengths.
+In the centre division, the wood may be cut down to a straight
+line to a depth of about eight inches from the upper surface. The
+gradual curve to the bow and stern of the canoe should start from
+each end of this flat cut, and extend to the upper edge of the log,
+the guiding line being made on the sides of the log by a piece of
+chalk. The adze will come into good use in trimming off the wood on
+these curves. When this upper outline is accomplished, the log may
+be turned bottom side up, and the sides of the extremities rounded
+off. This may be done with an axe and adze, and when performed,
+the bottom curves should be made by chopping away the wood in the
+curves shown in the lower outline of our illustration. This curve
+should also be marked out with chalk, and should commence a little
+nearer the end of the log than the curve on the upper side. Shave
+off the wood to a blunt edge on this curve, at both bow and stern.
+The rough form of the canoe is now obtained, and by the aid of
+the draw-knife, or shaving-knife, it can be neatly and smoothly
+finished.
+
+It is then ready to be "dug-out." The tools most useful for this
+purpose are the adze and axe, and sometimes the sledge and chisel.
+The digging out is of course the most tedious part; but with sharp
+tools it is a comparatively easy matter. When the great bulk of the
+wood is taken out, the interior should be finished with a howel
+or round adze; and the sides may be worked to one inch and a half
+in thickness if desired. The writer once saw one of these canoes
+of most exquisite workmanship, being only one inch in thickness,
+and so light as to be easily lifted with one hand. Of course such
+perfection as this is not necessary for ordinary purposes; although
+where the canoe is expected to be carried any great distance, it
+is well to thin it as much as possible. A gimlet or small auger
+may be used to gauge the thickness of the canoe, using it in the
+following manner: Supposing the required thickness of the wood
+is two inches, proceed to bore the hole from the inside of the
+canoe, and continue until the point of the gimlet or auger barely
+makes its appearance on the outside. Draw out the tool, and if the
+thickness measures more than is required, insert into the hole
+a slender piece of wood exactly two inches in length; push it in
+as far as it will go, and you may safely work until you reach the
+end of it. By this method the thickness may be gauged in different
+parts of the boat sufficiently to acquire a fair average thickness,
+[Page 261]
+and there is no danger of cutting through. The gimlet should be
+allowed to extend outside of the canoe only sufficiently to be
+detected, and the holes thus made will seldom give any trouble as
+leaks. If, however, this should be the case, a little putty or pitch
+will remedy the difficulty.
+
+The "dug-out" may be constructed of any size, and of any desired
+shape, but the above is the usual type.
+
+When leaks or cracks occur, they may be caulked with hemp, and
+smeared with pitch, which will render them thoroughly waterproof.
+
+For lightness and portability there is no boat more desirable or
+more unique than--
+
+
+THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE.
+
+Where the white birch grows in perfection, and the trees attain
+a large size, the chief material of the birch bark canoe is at
+hand; and although we ordinary mortals could not be expected to
+attain to that perfection of skill which the Indians exhibit in
+the manufacture of these canoes, we nevertheless can succeed
+sufficiently well to answer all practical purposes. The Indian
+canoes are often perfect marvels of skill and combined strength and
+lightness. These half-civilized beings seem to take as naturally to
+the making of these commodities, as if it were almost an hereditary
+habit with them; and few men, even with the most exhaustive practice,
+can compete with the Indian in the combined result of strength,
+lightness, durability, external beauty, and nicety of work, which
+are the united characteristics of the typical bark canoe.
+
+The average length of the "Bark," as used by trappers, is about
+twelve feet, but they may be constructed of any desired dimensions,
+to the length of forty feet. A canoe of this size will carry fifteen
+or twenty persons, and may be transported with ease upon the shoulders
+of two strong men. The smaller size, above mentioned, is capable
+of carrying two persons, and is a light load for a single man.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In constructing the bark canoe the first requisite is the gunwale,
+or upper framework. This should consist of four strips of cedar,
+ash, or other light, strong wood; two for each side of the boat.
+For an ordinary sized canoe, their length should be about twelve
+feet, width one inch, and thickness one-quarter of an inch. They
+should be tied together in pairs at the ends, and the two pairs
+then joined at the same place. The object of
+[Page 262]
+these pieces is to give strength and form to the canoe, and to
+offer a firm security for the edges of the bark, which are secured
+between them. The gunwale being prepared, we are now ready for
+the birch bark. The bottom of a well made canoe should be in one
+large piece, as our illustration indicates, if possible. Select
+some large tree with the trunk free from knots or excrescences.
+Mark off as great a length as possible, and chop a straight cut
+in the bark through the whole length of the piece, after which
+it should be carefully peeled from the wood. It will sometimes
+happen, where large birches exist in perfection, that a single
+piece may be found of sufficient size for a whole canoe, but this
+is rather exceptional, and the bottom is generally pieced out,
+as seen in our drawing. This piecing may be accomplished with an
+awl and Indian twine, or by the aid of a large needle threaded
+with the same, sewing with an over-and-over stitch around the edge
+of each piece. Use as large pieces as are attainable, and continue
+to sew them on until the area of bark measures about four and a
+half feet in width by twelve feet in length, the dark colored sides
+of the bark all facing the same way. Next select a fiat piece of
+ground, and mark off a distance of ten feet, or two feet less than
+the length of the gunwales. At each end of the space two tall stakes
+should be driven into the ground about three inches apart. Now
+turn the bark on the ground with its white side uppermost, and
+fold it loosely and evenly through the long centre. In this folded
+condition it should now be lifted by the upper edge and set between
+the stakes. There will then be about a foot of projecting bark
+beyond each pair of stakes. These ends should now be covered by
+folding another piece of bark over them, sewing the edges firmly
+to the sides of the rude form of the canoe, which now presents
+itself. When this is done, each end should be supported on a log
+or stone; this will cause the bottom line to sink downwards at
+about the proper curve. We are now ready for the gunwale. Lay it
+in the proper position, fitting the edges of the bark between the
+two strips on each side, and sewing around the whole with a winding
+stitch, exactly after the manner of the edge of an ordinary palm-leaf
+fan. The inside of the canoe should now be lined with long strips
+of cedar running through the entire length of the boat if possible,
+but if not, should be so cut as to neatly overlap at the ends.
+These pieces should be an inch or two in width, and from a quarter
+to half an inch-in thickness. The ribs are then to be put in. These
+are generally made from ash, one or two inches in width, and
+[Page 263]
+a quarter of an inch in thickness. Any light flexible wood will
+answer the purpose, and even barrel hoops when attainable will do
+very well. These ribs should be bent to fit the interior of the
+canoe crosswise, either close together, or with equal distances
+between them and the ends should then be firmly secured beneath the
+gunwales by a continuous loop-stitch through the bark. For a canoe
+of twelve feet in length, the width should be about two feet, and in
+order to keep the gunwales firm, two or more cross-pieces should
+be inserted, and lashed firmly at their ends as our illustration
+shows. The centre third of the length of the canoe should be parallel
+at the sides, and if two braces, two feet in length are placed at
+each end of this third, the shape will be about perfect. We now
+have a bark canoe of considerable strength and durability, and
+it only awaits to be made water-proof for final use. In order to
+accomplish this all the seams outside, and the entire interior of
+the canoe should, be smeared with pitch, after which its floating
+qualities may be tested with confidence. Should any leaks occur their
+where-abouts are easily detected, and an additional application
+of pitch will remedy the difficulty. The Indians in sewing their
+bark canoes use tamarack roots, fibrous plants, and grasses, in
+lieu of thread, and even with these inferior materials often attain
+to such perfection in compact sewing, as to render the use of pitch
+unnecessary for water-proof purposes. Such skill is rarely attained
+by the white man, and the art of making a water-proof canoe, even
+out of a single piece of bark, is by no means an easy task without
+the aid of tar or pitch.
+
+[Page 264]
+For the trapper we strongly recommend the birch "bark." With the
+above directions we are sure no one could go astray, and we are
+equally sure that a canoe made as we describe, would present advantages
+of lightness and portability which no other style of boat would
+possess. For temporary purposes, canoes can be made from basswood,
+hemlock, or spruce bark; but they are at best, very rude and clumsy
+in comparison with the birch bark. They are generally made after
+the principles of the above described; either sewing or nailing
+the edges of the bark together, and smearing every joint and seam
+profusely with pitch, and adding gunwales, lining, and ribs.
+
+
+A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT.
+
+The following gives an easy method of making a light and serviceable
+bateau, which any boy, with moderate ingenuity or skill, could
+easily construct:--
+
+Select two boards, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness,
+eighteen or twenty inches in width, and twelve feet in length,
+which we will consider the required length of the boat. These boards
+should be well seasoned, and free from knots, and at least one of
+the sides should be straight.
+
+Next, with the aid of a draw-shave, proceed to shape the ends of
+one of the boards, as seen on our diagram, (_e_) representing the
+forward, (_g_) the stern. The curve of the bow should commence at
+about four feet from the end, and take a rounded slope upward,
+leaving about ten inches of width at the end of the board (_e_).
+The stern should be cut at the angle shown at (_g_), commencing
+at about two and a half feet from the extremity of the board and
+continuing upward to about ten inches from the upper edge. The
+board thus shaped should now be laid evenly on the other, and the
+outline of the cut portions carefully scratched upon it, after
+which the second board should be cut in a similar manner as the
+first, so as to form an exact duplicate.
+
+This being accomplished, the two should be laid evenly, one over
+the other, and the exact center of their long edges ascertained.
+Marking off about five inches on each side of this centre on both
+boards.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Next procure another board about ten inches in width, three feet
+in length, and perfectly squared at the ends. Nail each end of
+this piece securely and squarely in the space marked on each of
+the long boards. Then turn the pieces carefully over and
+[Page 265]
+nail another board across the bottom, directly opposite the first.
+We will now leave them and give our attention to the bow piece,
+which is the next requisite. This is shown at (_a_), and consists
+of a solid piece of oak, or other hard wood, well seasoned, and
+hewn out in the arrow shape, indicated in our illustration. It
+should first be cut three-cornered, the inside face being about
+eight inches, and the other two ten inches. Its length should be
+about eleven inches, and its under side should be sloped off on a
+line with the under curve of the bows. At about five inches from
+the inner face, and on each side, a piece should be sawn out, one
+inch in thickness, thus leaving on each side a notch which will
+exactly receive the side-boards of the boat, as seen at (_a_).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The piece being thus ready, the bow ends of the boards should be
+drawn together, fitted in the notches and securely spiked with
+large nails. A bow piece of this kind adds greatly to the strength
+of a boat, and will stand much rough usage. The board for the stem
+should next be prepared. This should be ten inches in width and two
+feet in length, and should be securely nailed between the ends of the
+boards at the stem, as shown at (_g_), being afterwards overlapped
+on the top by a board of similar size, as our illustration shows,
+at (_c_). The bottom of the boat is now easily made by nailing
+boards crosswise, sawing off the projecting ends close to the curve
+of the side-boards. After the pieces are all nailed in place, the
+seams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, using a blunt chisel,
+or hard wooden wedge, and a mallet. The seats should now be put
+in, as these are not only a matter of comfort, but of necessity,
+acting as braces to the sides of the boat. They should be two in
+number, one being placed three feet from the stern and the other
+one foot beyond the brace board originally nailed across the top
+of the boat. The seats should be cut at the ends in a curve
+corresponding to the part of the boat in which they are placed,
+and should be situated about a foot from the bottom of the boat,
+their ends resting on short boards beneath them against the sides
+of the boat. These are indicated by the dotted lines (_h h_) in
+[Page 266]
+the diagram. When thus resting they should be securely fastened in
+place by strong screws, driven through the sides of the boat into
+their ends (_f f_), allowing some one to sit on the seat meanwhile
+to keep it in place. Small cleats should now be tacked to the bottom
+of the boat, beneath the seat and underneath the seat itself, in
+order to keep the props in place; after which the original brace
+board across the top of the boat may be knocked off and the bateau
+is complete and ready for service. A boat thus made is quite comely
+in shape, and may be painted to suit the fancy. Should a rudder
+be required, the broad board at the stern offers a good place of
+attachment, and oar-locks may be adjusted at the proper places.
+These may consist of a pair of cleats attached to the inside of
+the boat, as seen in the illustration. In case it may be found
+difficult to obtain the large single boards for the sides of the
+boat, two or more narrow ones will answer the purpose, although
+not as perfectly. In this case they should first be firmly attached
+together by cleats, securely screwed to the inside. When first put
+on the water the boat will probably leak in places, but if left
+to soak for a few hours the wood will generally swell sufficiently
+to completely close the crevices. If, however, the leak should
+continue, that particular part of the boat should be re-caulked
+and smeared with pitch. This latter substance is of great value
+to the trapper, not only in boat building but in the construction
+of his shanties and in other various ways. It will most effectually
+stop almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should always
+be applied hot.
+
+
+[Page 267]
+THE SCOW.
+
+The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow for
+considerable speed in the water, either in rowing or sculling;
+but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed bows
+may be dispensed with, and the sides of the boat made perfectly
+straight. In this case the bottom takes equal slopes at the ends,
+and both bow and stern are of the same width, and an ordinary
+flat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result. In many cases
+a scow of this kind answers every purpose, and is certainly much
+more easily made.
+
+We have thus described a few of the most common instances of boats
+used by trappers, and with our full description and illustrations
+no one can go astray. A boat of some kind is almost an indispensable
+requisite to the trapper, and anyone of the foregoing will be found
+sufficient for all ordinary purposes.
+
+A paddle may be used, and in shallow or muddy water a pusher or
+mud-stick will be found useful. This should consist of a pole seven
+or eight feet in length, supplied at the ends with an attachment of
+the shape of the letter U. This may be constructed in two pieces,
+firmly screwed to opposite sides of the end of the pole, and so
+formed as to present a curved crotch. Such a stick will be found
+very useful for pushing through weeds and muddy places. A simple
+pole trimmed so as to leave a crotch at the end will also answer
+the purpose very well.
+
+
+SNOW-SHOES.
+
+These commodities are almost indispensable to the trapper where
+he pursues his vocation in the winter time, during the prevalence
+of deep snows. When properly made they permit the wearer to walk
+over the surface of the snow with perfect ease; where, without
+them, travel would be extremely difficult if not impossible.
+
+In the regions of perpetual snow, and also in Canada and neighboring
+districts, snow-shoes are very commonly worn. In the latter localities
+the "snow-shoe race" forms one of the favorite sports of the season,
+and young and old alike join in its mysteries. Like riding on the
+velocipede, walking on snow-shoes looks "easy enough," but we notice
+that a few somersaults are usually a convincing argument that the art
+is not as simple as it appears. The first experience on snow-shoes
+[Page 268]
+is apt to be at least undignifying, if not discouraging, and in order
+to get used to the strange capers and eccentricities of an ordinarily
+well-behaved snow shoe, it requires considerable patience and practice.
+There is no telling where, in an unguarded moment, they will land
+you, and they seem to take especial delight in stepping on each
+other and turning their wearer upside down. The principal secret
+of success (and one may as well know it at the start, as to learn
+it at the expense of a pint of snow down his back) consists in
+taking steps sufficiently long to bring the widest portion of the
+stepping shoe beyond that of the other, keeping the feet rather
+far apart and stepping pretty high. By observing these precautions,
+and trusting in Providence, much embarrassment may be saved, and
+an hour's effort will thoroughly tame the unruly appendages, which
+at best do not permit of much grace or elegance of gait.
+
+To the moose hunter snow-shoes are often an absolute necessity,
+and trapping in many cases would be impossible without them. They
+are thus brought fully within the scope of our volume, and we give
+a few simple directions for their manufacture. Our illustration
+gives the correct shape of the shoe. The framework should consist
+of a strip of ash, hickory or some other elastic wood, bent into
+the form indicated and wound around the ends with twine or strips
+of hide. The length of the piece should be about six feet, more
+or less, in proportion to the size of the individual who proposes
+to wear the shoe. If the bending should prove difficult it may
+be rendered an easy matter by the application of boiling water.
+Across the front part two strips of stout leather, or other tough
+hide, are then fastened, and these further secured together by three
+or four bands on each side of the middle, as our drawing shows.
+
+In the original Indian snow-shoe, from which our drawing was made,
+the net work was constructed from strips of moose hide, which were
+interlaced much after the manner of an ordinary cane-seated chair.
+Strips of leather, deer skin, or even split cane, above alluded to,
+may also be used, and the lacing may be either as our illustration
+represents, or in the simpler rectangular woof seen in ordinary
+cloth.
+
+In order to attach the interlacing to the bow the latter should be
+wound with wide strips of cane, if it can be procured, or otherwise
+with strips of tough skin. The loops thus formed offer a continuous
+security, and the whole interior, with the exception of the space
+at the front between the cross pieces, should be neatly filled
+with the next work. It is well to run the first lines
+[Page 269]
+across the shoe, from side to side, passing through the windings
+of the bow. Across them, in the form of the letter X, the two other
+cords should be interlaced, after the manner shown in the cut.
+This forms a secure and not very complicated network, and is the
+style usually adopted by the Indian makers.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is another mode of attaching the lace-work to the bow which
+is also commonly employed, and consists in a series of holes bored
+at regular intervals through the wood. The winding is thus dispensed
+with, but the bow is sometimes weakened by the operation, and we are
+inclined to recommend the former method in preference. In attaching
+the shoe, the ball of the foot should be set on the second cross
+piece, and there secured by a strip of hide, which should be first
+adjusted as seen in the engraving, being afterward tied over the
+foot and then behind the ankle. Snow-shoes are made in other ways,
+but we believe that the typical Indian snow-shoe above described
+is the best.
+
+
+THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.
+
+For winter traffic over deep snows there is no better sled in the
+world than the Indian toboggan. To the trapper during a winter
+campaign it is often an indispensable convenience, and without
+it the Indian hunters of the North would find great difficulty in
+getting their furs to market. All through the winter season the
+various trading posts of Canada are constantly visited by numbers
+of Indian trappers, many of whom have travelled hundreds of miles
+on their snow-shoes with their heavily laden toboggans. Arrived at
+[Page 270]
+their market they sell or trade their stock of furs, and likewise
+dispose of their toboggans, reserving only their snow-shoes to aid
+them in their long tramp homewards.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In Canada and northward the toboggan is in very extensive use, both
+for purposes of traffic and amusement. It is quite commonly met
+with in the streets of various Canadian cities, and is especially
+appreciated by the youthful population, who are fond of coasting
+over the crust of snow. For this purpose there is no other sled
+like it, and a toboggan of the size we shall describe will easily
+accommodate two or three boys, and will glide over a crust of snow
+with great ease and rapidity. To the trapper it is especially valuable
+for all purposes of transportation. The flat bottom rests upon
+the surface of the snow, and the weight being thus distributed
+a load of two or three hundred pounds will often make but little
+impression and can be drawn with marvellous ease. Our illustration
+gives a very clear idea of the sled, and it can be made in the
+following way: the first requisite is a board about eight feet
+in length and sixteen or more inches in width. Such a board may
+be procured at any saw mill. Oak is the best wood for the purpose,
+although hickory, basswood or ash will do excellently. It should
+be planed or sawed to a thickness of about a third of an inch,
+and should be free from knots. If a single board of the required
+width is not easily found, two boards may be used, and secured
+side by side by three cleats, one at each end and the other in
+the middle, using wrought nails and clinching them deeply into the
+board on the under side. The single board is much to be preferred,
+if it can be had. The next requisites are seven or eight wooden
+cross-pieces of a length equivalent to the width of the board.
+Four old broom-sticks, cut in the required lengths, will answer
+[Page 271]
+this purpose perfectly, and if these are not at hand other sticks
+of similar dimensions should be used. Two side pieces are next
+needed. These should be about five feet in length, and in thickness
+exactly similar to the cross pieces. Next procure a few pairs of
+leather shoe-strings or some strips of tough calf skin. With these
+in readiness we may now commence the work of putting the parts
+together. Begin by laying the cross pieces at equal distances along
+the board; across these and near their ends lay the two side pieces,
+as seen in the illustration. By the aid of a gimlet or awl, four
+holes should now be made through the board, beneath the end of each
+cross piece, and also directly under the side piece. It is well to
+mark with a pencil, the various points for the holes, after which
+the sticks can be removed and the work much more easily performed.
+The four holes should be about an inch apart, or so disposed as to
+mark the four corners of a square inch. It is also necessary to
+make other holes along the length of the cross pieces, as seen
+in the illustration. The line on these can also be marked with
+the pencil across the board, and the holes made afterwards. These
+should also be an inch apart, and only two in number at each point,
+one on each side of the stick. When all the holes are made the
+board should be turned over, in order to complete preparations
+on the other side. The object of these various holes is for the
+passage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose of securing
+the cross pieces firmly to the board. In order to prevent these
+loops from wearing off on the under side, small grooves should next
+be made connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing the leather
+string to sink into the wood, where it is securely protected from
+injury. A narrow chisel is the best tool for this purpose, the making
+of the grooves being much more easily and perfectly accomplished
+with this than with the jack-knife. When the under side is thus
+finished the board may be turned over and the cross pieces and
+sides again arranged in place as already described. Secure the
+pieces to the board by the leather strings through the various
+holes, always knotting on the upper surface, and taking care that
+the knots are firmly tied. The ends of all the cross pieces will
+require a double cross stitch through the four holes beneath, in
+order to secure the side pieces as well. This is plainly shown in
+the small diagram (_a_). The front end of each side piece underneath
+should now be sharpened to a point, to allow for the bend at the
+front of the toboggan. The cross piece at this end should be secured
+to the under side of the board, so that as it bends over it will
+appear on the upper edge, as our illustration shows. The board should
+[Page 272]
+next be bent with a graceful curve, and thus held in position by a
+rope or strip of leather at each extremity of the end cross piece and
+attached to the ends of the third cross piece, as seen in the engraving.
+If the bending is difficult and there is danger of breaking the board,
+the application of boiling water will render it pliable. The draw
+strings should then be attached to the ends of the second cross piece,
+and our toboggan is now complete.
+
+It may now be laden with two or three hundred pounds of merchandize
+and will be found to draw over the surface of the snow with perfect
+ease. For coasting over the crust there is nothing like it. Such a
+toboggan as we have described will easily accommodate three boys,
+the one at the stern being provided with a sharp stick for steering,
+and the front occupant holding firmly to the draw strings. The
+toboggan is easily made, and will do good service either for traffic
+or sport.
+
+
+CURING SKINS.
+
+This department of the trapper's art is one of the most important
+and necessary, as affecting pecuniary profits. The value of a skin
+in the fur market depends entirely upon the care with which it
+is taken from the animal and afterward prepared, and without a
+knowledge on this subject the young trapper will in vain seek for
+high prices for his furs. Large quantities of valuable skins are
+sent to our markets annually by inexperienced amateur trappers,
+and in many cases rare and beautiful furs have been almost spoiled
+by want of care in skinning and curing. The rules are simple and
+easily followed, a little care being all that is necessary to insure
+most perfect success. In every case the skin should be removed
+shortly after death, or at least before it has become tainted with
+decay. Great pains should be taken in skinning. Avoid the adherence
+of flesh or fat to the skin, and guard against cutting through the
+hide, as a pierced skin is much injured in value. The parts about
+the eyes, legs and ears should be carefully removed. The various
+methods of skinning are described in our section on trapping, and
+in all cases the furs should be allowed to dry in a cool, airy
+place, free from the rays of the sun or the heat of a fire, and
+protected from rain.
+
+Astringent preparations of various kinds are used by many trappers,
+but they are by no means necessary. The most common dressing consists
+of equal parts of rock salt and alum dissolved in water. Into this
+a sufficient amount of coarse flour or wheat bran is stirred to give
+[Page 273]
+the mixture the consistency of batter, after which it is spread
+thickly over the skin and allowed to dry.
+
+It is afterwards scraped off, and in some cases a second application
+is made. This preparation is much used in dressing beaver, otter,
+mink and muskrat skins, but as many of our most successful and
+experienced trappers do without it, we fail to see the advantage of
+using it, as it is only an extra trouble. The simplest and surest
+way is to stretch the skin and to submit it to a gradual process
+of natural drying without any artificial heat or application of
+astringents to hasten the result.
+
+A very common mode of stretching skins consists in tacking them to
+a board, with the fur inwards, and allowing them to dry as already
+described.
+
+This method does very well for small skins, but for general purposes
+the "stretchers" are the only means by which a pelt may be properly
+cured and prepared.
+
+
+STRETCHERS.
+
+The board stretcher is the simplest form and is in most common use
+among trappers for the smaller animals. These stretchers are of
+two kinds, the plain and the wedged. The plain stretcher consists
+of a piece of board a quarter of an inch in thickness, about eighteen
+inches long and six inches in width. One end of this board is rounded
+off, as seen in our illustration, and the sides should also be
+whittled and smoothed to a blunt edge.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The board stretchers are used only for those skins which are taken
+off whole, that is, as described in the chapter on the otter. The
+skin should be drawn tightly over the blunt end of the board, and
+its edges either caught in notches cut in the edges of the square
+end or secured by a few tacks. This stretcher is particularly
+[Page 274]
+adapted to the skins of muskrats, minks and animals of a like size.
+They are known in New England as "shingle stretchers," and are much
+to be recommended on account of their lightness and the ease with
+which they can be made and carried.
+
+The wedge stretcher is rather more elaborate than the foregoing,
+and is said to be an improvement.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first requisite is a board of about three-eighths of an inch in
+thickness, two feet or more in length, and three and a half inches
+at one end tapering to the width of two inches at the other. This
+end should now be rounded, and the edges of the board whittled off
+to a blunt edge, as already described in the foregoing, commencing
+near the centre of the board, and thinning to the edge, and finishing
+with the notches at the square end. Now, by the aid of a rip-saw,
+sever the board through the middle lengthwise.
+
+The wedge is the next thing to be constructed, and should consist
+of a piece of wood the thickness of the centre of the board and
+of the same length, tapering from an inch in width at one end to
+half an inch at the other.
+
+To use the stretcher the two boards are inserted into the skin,
+(the latter with the fur side inward). The wedge is then inserted
+between the large ends of the boards and driven in sufficiently to
+stretch the pelt to its full capacity, securing it in the notches
+by slight cuts in the hide, or by a tack or two at the edge. It
+should then he hung in a cool, airy place, and the pelt left to
+"season."
+
+The bow stretcher is another contrivance very commonly used for
+small skins like the foregoing. When this is used the pelt should
+be skinned as described on page 185, the initial cut commencing
+at the lower jaw and extending down between the fore legs, all
+the feet being previously cut off. The bow may consist of a switch
+of any elastic wood such as hickory iron wood, elm or birch. It
+should be about three or more feet in length, and as large as a
+man's thumb at the butt end. By bending it in the shape of the
+letter U it may easily be inserted in the skin, the latter being
+[Page 275]
+fastened by catching the lip on each side into a sliver notch cut on
+each end of the bow, as our illustration indicates.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+For large animals, such as the deer, bear, beaver, the hoop stretcher
+is generally employed.
+
+
+THE HOOP STRETCHER.
+
+This consists of a hoop made from one or more flexible switches
+tied together so as to form a circle. In order to be adapted to
+this mode of stretching, the skin should be flat, _i. e._ taken
+off as described on page 172, the initial cut extending from the
+lower jaw to the vent. The size of the hoop required depends upon
+the dimensions of the skin. Lay the latter upon some flat surface
+and so gauge the hoop as that it shall surround the pelt on all
+sides; after which the latter should be secured or laced to the
+hoop with twine at the edges. All loose parts should be drawn up,
+and the skin should everywhere be stretched like a drum head. When
+this is accomplished it is the custom with many trappers to apply
+the preparation described on page 273, particularly where the skin
+is thick and fatty. But we are rather disposed to discourage the
+use of any preparation whatever, in any case, as they are by no
+means necessary.
+
+In using the board stretchers the fur should always be on the inside,
+and when the hoop or bow is used it should be placed in such a
+position, that the air may circulate freely on both sides of the
+skin, which should not be removed until thoroughly dry.
+
+
+[Page 276]
+TANNING SKINS.
+
+In case some of our readers might desire to tan fur skins for their
+own domestic purposes, the subjoined directions will be found to be
+reliable, and for all ordinary requirements, sufficiently adequate.
+
+For tanning with the hair on, the skin should first be cleaned,
+every particle of loose fat or flesh, being removed, and the useless
+parts cut away. When this is done, it should be soaked for an hour
+or two in warm water. The following mixture should then be prepared:
+Take equal parts of borax, saltpetre, and sulphate of soda, and
+with them mix water sufficient to produce the consistency of thin
+batter.
+
+This preparation should be painted thickly on the flesh side of
+the skin, after which these sides should be doubled together and
+the pelt left in an airy place.
+
+A second mixture should next be prepared. This should consist of
+two parts sal soda; three parts borax; four parts castile or other
+hard soap: all to be melted together over a slow fire. At the end
+of twenty-four hours, after the application of the first mixture,
+the second should be applied in a similar manner, and the fur again
+folded and left for the same length of time. Next, make a mixture
+equal parts of salt and alum, dissolved in warm water and thickened
+with coarse flour to the consistency of thin paste. Spread this thickly
+over the skin and allow it to dry, after which it should be scraped
+off with the bowl of a spoon. The skin should be tightly stretched
+during the operation, in order to prevent too great shrinkage. A
+single application of the last-named dressing, is generally sufficient
+for small skins; but a second or third treatment may be resorted
+to if required, to make the skin soft and pliable, after which it
+should be finished off with sand-paper and pumice stone. A skin
+may be thus dressed as soft as velvet, and the alum and salt will
+set the hair securely.
+
+The above directions are excellent, for all general purposes, but
+we subjoin, in addition, a few other valuable hints and specific
+recipes in common use. Every trapper has his own peculiar hobby
+in regard to his tanning process, and the recipes are various and
+extensive. The above is one of the most reliable for general use.
+A common mode of tanning mink and muskrat skins is given in the
+following:--
+
+
+TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS.
+
+Before tanning, the skin should always be thoroughly cleansed
+[Page 277]
+in warm water, and all fat and superfluous flesh removed. It should
+then be immersed in a solution made of the following ingredients:
+Five gallons of cold soft water; five quarts wheat bran; one gill
+of salt; and one ounce of sulphuric acid. Allow the skins to soak in
+the liquid for four or five hours. If the hides have been previously
+salted, the salt should be excluded from the mixed solution. The
+skins are now ready for the tanning liquor, which is made in the
+following way: into five gallons of warm, soft water, stir one peck
+of wheat bran and allow the mixture to stand in a warm room until
+fermentation takes place. Then add three pints of salt, and stir until
+it is thoroughly dissolved. A pint of sulphuric acid should then be
+poured in gradually, after which the liquor is ready. Immerse the
+skins and allow them to soak for three or four hours. The process
+of "fleshing" is then to be resorted to. This consists in laying the
+skin, fur side down, over some smooth beam, and working over the
+flesh side with a blunt fleshing tool. An old chopping knife, or
+tin candlestick, forms an excellent substitute for the ordinary
+fleshing knife, and the process of rubbing should be continued
+until the skin becomes dry, after which it will be found to be
+soft and pliable. The skin of the muskrat is quite tender, and the
+fleshing should be carefully performed.
+
+
+HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, AND MARTEN.
+
+These should be stretched on a board and smeared with a mixture
+composed of three ounces each, of salt and alum; three gills of
+water, and one drachm of sulphuric acid. This should be thickened
+with wheat bran or flour, and should be allowed to dry on the skin,
+after which it should be scraped off with a spoon. Next, take the
+skin from the board, roll it with the fur inside, and draw it quickly
+backward and forward, over a smooth peg, or through an iron ring.
+The skin should then be unfolded and rolled again the opposite
+way, and the operation repeated until the pelt is quite soft and
+flexible. This is a good way of softening all kinds of skins, and
+the above preparation will be found excellent for all ordinary
+purposes. The muskrat skin may be treated in the same manner as
+the above, if desired, and the process directed on the muskrat
+skin may also be applied to the pelts of the other animals.
+
+To remove the fur for a simple tanned skin, the hide should be
+immersed in a liquid composed of--soft water, five gallons; slaked
+lime, four quarts; and wood ashes, four quarts. Allow
+[Page 278]
+the skin to soak for a couple of days, after which the fur will
+readily slip off.
+
+Another method--take equal parts wood ashes and slaked lime, and
+add water to the consistency of batter. Spread this over the inside
+of the skin, roll it up, and place it in a pail, covering it with
+water. Here let it remain from one to five days, or until the hair
+will shed easily, after which it should be finished with the fleshing
+knife and velveted with sand paper.
+
+
+OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.
+
+In all cold climates, man has availed himself liberally of the
+warm covering with which nature has clothed the animals around
+him; but the wealth of the most favored nations has drawn to them
+the most beautiful furs, in whatever part of the world they are
+procured. Skins of animals were among the first materials used
+for clothing. Before Adam and Eve were driven from the Garden of
+Eden, they were furnished with coats of skins. The ancient Assyrians
+used the soft skins of animals to cover the couches or the ground
+in their tents, and the Israelites employed badger's skins and
+ram's skins, as ornamental hangings for the Tabernacle. The ancient
+heroes of the Greeks and Romans, are represented as being clothed
+in skins. AEneas, wearing for an outer garment, that of the lion,
+and Alcestes being formidably clad in that of the Libyan Bear.
+Herodotus speaks of those living near the Caspian Sea wearing seal
+skins, and Caesar mentions that the skin of the reindeer formed in
+part the clothing of the Germans. In the early period, furs appear
+to have constituted the entire riches of the Northern countries,
+and they were almost the only exports. Taxes were paid on them,
+and they were the medium of exchange. So it was also in our own
+Western territories in the latter part of the last century, and is
+to the present day, to a great extent, among the Indians. In the
+eleventh century, furs had become fashionable throughout Europe,
+and the art of dyeing them, was practiced in the twelfth. In the
+history of the Crusades, frequent mention is made of the magnificent
+displays by the European Princes, of their dresses of costly furs,
+before the Court at Constantinople. But Richard I. of England, and
+Philip II. of France, in order to check the growing extravagance
+in their use, resolved that the choicer furs, ermine and sable
+amongst the number, should be omitted from their kingly wardrobes.
+Louis IX. followed their example in the next century, but not
+[Page 279]
+until his extravagance had grown to such a pitch, that _seven hundred
+and forty-six_ ermines were required for the _lining_ of one of his
+_surcoats_. In the times, the use of the choicer furs, as those
+of the sable, ermine, gris, and Hungarian squirrel, was restricted
+to the royal families and the nobility, to whom they served as
+distinctive marks and badges of rank. These privileged persons
+applied them lavishly to their own use, and the fashion extended
+to the princes of other less civilized nations. Their royal use
+soon extended to Tartary, and the tents of the Khan were bedecked
+with the most rich and costly furs. In the following century, furs
+were commonly worn in England until their use was prohibited by
+Edward III., to all persons whose purse would not warrant a yearly
+expenditure of L100.
+
+The early fur trade of Western Europe, was conducted through the
+merchants on the south coast of the Baltic, who received goods from
+the ports of Livonia. In the sixteenth century, a direct trade was
+opened between the English and Russians; and a company of the former,
+protected by the Czar, established trading posts on the White Sea,
+and a warehouse at Moscow, whence they sent trading parties to
+Persia and the countries on the Caspian Sea. The Czar sent rich
+presents of beautiful furs, to Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth;
+but the latter prohibited the wearing of any but native furs, and
+the trade soon declined and was abandoned. In the 17th century,
+Siberia was conquered by the Russians, and its tribute was paid
+in furs. Large quantities were also furnished to China, but the
+choicest kinds--the precious ermine, the brilliant, fiery foxes, and
+the best sables, were taken to Moscow, for the use of the princes
+and nobles of Russia, Turkey, and Persia.
+
+In our own country, the early settlers of the Northern provinces,
+soon learned the value of the furs of the numerous animals which
+peopled the extensive rivers, lakes, and forests of these vast
+territories. They collected the skins in abundance, and found an
+increasing demand for them, with every new arrival of immigrants
+from the mother country. Trinkets, liquors, and other articles
+sought for by the native tribes, were shipped to Quebec, and from
+thence up the St. Lawrence to Montreal, which soon became the great
+trading post of the country. The various tribes of Indians were
+stimulated by trifling compensation, to pursue their only congenial
+and peaceful occupation; and the French settlers, readily assimilating
+to the Indian habits, became themselves expert hunters, trappers,
+and explorers.
+
+The business prospered, and the English soon became interested and
+secured a share of the valuable trade. Many
+[Page 280]
+wealthy and influential parties, connected with the government
+of Great Britain,--Prince Rupert and Lord Ashley, among the
+number--became deeply interested in this source of revenue; and
+after a successful enterprise, they obtained from Charles II., a
+charter of incorporation, giving to them full possession of the
+territory within the entrance of Hudson's Straits, not already granted
+to other subjects, or possessed by those of any other Christian
+prince or State. In this charter was included the monopoly, of all
+trade in these regions, and thus we see the origin of the Great
+Hudson's Bay Company, which is to-day, one of the largest organizations
+of its kind on the globe. The territory they claimed, extended
+from Hudson's Bay, west to the Pacific, and north to the Arctic
+Ocean, excepting that occupied by the French and Russians. They
+soon formed settlements upon the various rivers which empty into
+Hudson's Bay, and carried on their operations with immense vigor
+and success. They met with much opposition and open hostility from
+the French, and were subjected to vast expenses and losses, but in
+spite of all, they continued to prosper. Their forts or factories
+were extended further into the interior of British America, and
+their power was supreme throughout the country, and in a great
+measure over the Indians, whom they employed to collect their skins.
+In the course of time, the French Canadians organized themselves
+into a united band, under the name of the North West Company, and
+established their headquarters at Montreal. Their operations were
+carried on with great energy and profit, and many factories were
+built in the western portion of the Province. The company thus soon
+became a formidable competitor with the Hudson's Bay Company and
+for a period of two years, an actual state of war existed between
+them. This condition of affairs finally terminated in a consolidation
+of the two organizations, under the name of the Hudson's Bay Company,
+the privileges of which extended over all the territory formerly
+occupied by both.
+
+Thus, we have the history of the famous Hudson's Bay Company, from
+its origin to its perfect organization. It is a most stupendous
+concern, and its annual shipment of furs, is something amazing.
+Their great sales take place in the month of March, in order to
+be completed before Easter; and again in September, every year
+at London, and are attended by purchasers from nearly all parts
+of the world. Leipsic, the famous fur mart of Germany, is also
+the scene of a great annual fair, for the sale of skins.
+
+The importance of the fur trade in this country, led to the
+[Page 281]
+early settlement of the Western territories of the United States;
+and many a frontier city, like St. Paul, has been built up by the
+enterprise of the trapper. Mackinaw and Montreal owe much of their
+growth to the traffic of the fur trade; and many a kingly fortune--John
+Jacob Astor's, for instance--has been founded on peltry.
+
+Besides the above fur sales in London a moderate portion of those
+annually collected in the United States are retained for use, amounting
+to about 150,000 mink and 750,000 muskrat skins, besides a number
+of other furs which are manufactured and worn.
+
+The annual yield of raw furs throughout the whole world is estimated
+at over twenty millions of dollars in value; and when we include
+the manufactured articles therefrom, the amount will swell to a
+hundred millions or over. This will serve to give some idea of
+the immensity and value of the business.
+
+American dealers divide our native furs into two classes, viz.,
+_home_ and _shipping_ furs; the former being chiefly utilized in
+our own country, while the latter are exported to all parts of
+the world. New York City is the great fur mart and depot for the
+shipping trade in this country, and the annual value of its exports,
+in this one branch of trade is enormous.
+
+The principal shipping furs are the silver, red and cross Fox, Wild
+Cat, Raccoon, Fisher, Muskrat and Skunk.
+
+Among the home furs are the Marten, Mink, Opossum, Wolf and Muskrat,
+the latter being extensively used both here and abroad.
+
+In the following chapter will be found more detailed notes on the
+leading American furs, including their various uses and the different
+countries for which they are the especial staples.
+
+In order to give the reader some idea of the variety and magnitude
+of the yield of furs from our own country, we annex a table (p.
+282) showing the sales of the Hudson's Bay Company, at London,
+in the year 1873.
+
+
+MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS.
+
+Below will be found an authentic table of the comparative values
+of the various American furs at the present date of publication.
+The quotations are those of one of our largest fur dealers, as
+published in "THE HAT, CAP AND FUR TRADE REVIEW," the leading journal
+of the trade in America. Of course these values are constantly
+varying--keeping pace with the eccentricities of fashion and the
+demands of the fur trade; but
+[Page 282]
+the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values, as
+between the two extremes of common and scarce furs. The fur market
+is a great deal like the stock market. It is constantly fluctuating,
+and a fur which is to-day among the novelties, may next year find
+itself on the low priced list. The demand for furs of any kind
+is nearly always governed by fashion, and of course the value is
+estimated on the demand. If the convention of fur dealers should
+decide to usher in _Muskrat fur_ as the leading and most fashionable
+article in that line, the fashion would create the demand, the
+demand would be in turn supplied by the trappers throughout the
+country, and in proportion as the Muskrat skins became scarce,
+so their value would increase. In this way a skin which may be
+worth fifty cents at one time may soon acquire a value of twenty
+times that amount. The comparative value of skins is, therefore,
+constantly varying more or less; but the annexed table (page 283)
+will be found useful for general reference, and for approximate
+figures, will probably answer every purpose for some time to come.
+
+ ==========================================================================
+             |  No. of |  No. of |         |                     |Estimated
+             |  Skins. |  Skins. |  Total  |  Price according to | average
+    KINDS.   |  March  |  Sept.  |   No.   |        quality.     |price per
+             |  Sale.  |  Sale.  |         |                     |  skin.
+ ------------|---------|---------|---------|-------------------------------
+             |         |         |         |                     |  L s. d.
+ Badger      |   2,700 |         |   2,700 | 1s. to 7s.          |     1 06
+ Bear        |   5,217 |   2,794 |   8,011 | 5s. to L8 10s.      |  5  0 00
+ Beaver      | 111,993 |  37,052 | 149,045 | 4S. 3d. to 38s. 6d. |  1 00 00
+ Fisher      |   2,843 |     779 |   3,622 | 8s. to L3 5s.       |  2 10 00
+ Fox, Blue   |      90 |         |      90 | 18s. to L4.         |  2 10 00
+  "   Cross  |   1,818 |     471 |   2,289 | 5s. to L4.          |  1 10 00
+  "   Kitt   |   6,930 |         |   6,930 | 2s. 8d. to 28s. 10d.|     3 00
+  "   Red    |   6,914 |   1,383 |   8,297 | 4s. 6d. to 17s.     |    10 00
+  "   Silver |     540 |     148 |     688 | L3 10s. to L21.     | 10 00 00
+  "   White  |   7,312 |         |   7,312 | 2s. to 14s. 9d.     |     7 00
+ Lynx        |   2,468 |   1,652 |   4,120 | 9s. 6d. to L1 14s.  |    18 00
+ Marten      |  47,878 |  18,955 |  66,833 | 10s. to L3 19s.     |  1 10 00
+ Mink        |  31,802 |  12,896 |  44,698 | 4s. to L1 8s. 6d.   |    15 00
+ Muskrat     | 651,498 | 116,488 | 767,896 | 3d. to 16d.         |    00  8
+ Otter       |   8,571 |   2,681 |  11,252 | 14s. to L3 18s.     |  2 10 00
+   "   Sea   |         |      98 |      98 | L4 10s. to L32.     | 15 00 00
+ Rabbit      |  10,029 |         |  10,029 | 3d. to 4d.          |    00  3
+ Raccoon     |         |   3,582 |   3,582 | 1s. to 3s. 3d.      |     2  6
+ Skunk       |   1,691 |         |   1,691 | 2s. to 7s.          |     4 00
+ Wolf        |   6,216 |     188 |   6,404 | 6s. to L2 15s.      |    15 00
+ Wolverine   |   1,770 |     320 |   2,090 | 8s. to L1 1s.       |    15 00
+ ==========================================================================
+
+
+[Page 283]
+ AMERICAN FUR SKINS--TABLE OF VALUES.[*]
+ ==========================================================================
+                                       | Prime. |Seconds.| Thirds.|Fourths.
+ --------------------------------------|--------|--------|--------|--------
+ Badger                                |  $1.00 |  $0.50 |  $0.10 |  $
+ Bear, Black                           |  18.00 |   9.00 |   1.00 |
+   "   Cub                             |  10.00 |   5.00 |   1.00 |
+   "   Brown                           |   7.00 |   4.00 |   1.00 |
+ Beaver, California            per lb. |   1.25 |     75 |     50 |
+    "    Southern                      |   1.00 |     75 |     40 |
+    "    Upper Missouri                |   1.75 |   1.50 |     50 |
+    "    Lake Supr. and Canada.        |   2.50 |   1.75 |     75 |
+ Cat, Wild                             |     40 |     10 |        |
+  "   House                            |     15 |     10 |        |
+ Deer, Florida                 per lb. |     20 |        |        |
+  "    Missouri                        |     20 |        |        |
+ Elk and Moose                 per lb. |     35 |     25 |        |
+ Fisher, Southern                      |   7.00 |   5.00 |   1.00 |
+   "     Eastern and Canada            |  10.00 |   8.00 |   2.00 |
+ Fox, Silver                           | 100.00 |  25.00 |   1.00 |
+  "   Cross                            |   3.00 |   1.50 |   1.00 |
+  "   Blue                             |  15.00 |   5.00 |   1.00 |
+  "   White                            |   3.00 |   1.50 |        |
+  "   Red                              |   1.75 |   1.00 |     75 |     25
+  "   Gray                             |   3.00 |   1.50 |     50 |     25
+  "   Kitt                             |     50 |     25 |        |
+ Lynx, Minnesota                       |   2.50 |   1.00 |        |
+  "    Canada                          |   4.00 |   2.00 |        |
+ Marten, Dark                          |  10.00 |   6.00 |   2.00 |
+   "     Small Pale                    |   2.00 |   1.00 |     50 |
+ Mink, Southern                        |   1.00 |     50 |     25 |     10
+   "   Western                         |   1.25 |   1.00 |     50 |     10
+   "   Middle States                   |   2.00 |   1.25 |     50 |     10
+   "   Minnesota                       |   2.50 |   1.50 |     75 |     20
+   "   New England                     |   3.50 |   1.75 |   1.00 |     20
+   "   Quebec and Halifax              |   4.00 |   2.00 |   1.00 |     20
+ Muskrat, Southern                     |     28 |     25 |     15 |      5
+    "     Western                      |     30 |     28 |     18 |      6
+    "     Northern                     |     32 |     30 |     20 |      8
+    "     Eastern                      |     35 |     30 |     22 |     10
+ Opossum, Ohio                         |     30 |     20 |     10 |
+    "     Southern                     |     20 |     10 |        |
+ Otter, Southern                       |   5.00 |   3.00 |   2.00 |     50
+   "    Northern                       |  10.00 |   6.00 |   2.00 |     50
+ Rabbit                                |      3 |        |        |
+ Raccoon, Southern                     |     50 |     30 |     15 |      5
+    "     Western                      |   1.00 |     50 |     20 |      5
+    "     Michigan                     |   1.25 |     80 |     30 |      5
+ Seal, Hair                            |     60 |        |        |
+   "   Fur                             |  10.00 |        |        |
+ Skunk, Black Cased                    |   1.00 |     60 |     40 |     10
+   "    Half Stripe                    |     60 |     50 |     25 |     10
+   "    White                          |     20 |     10 |        |
+ Wolf, Timber                          |   3.00 |   1.50 |        |
+   "   Prairie                         |   1.00 |     75 |        |
+ Wolverine                             |   5.00 |   2.00 |        |
+ ==========================================================================
+
+[Footnote *: From the "Hat Cap and Fur Trade Review."]
+
+[Page 284]
+Notwithstanding all these advertised prices, the young trapper
+often experiences great difficulty in a profitable disposal of his
+furs. Like every other business, the fur trade runs in its regular
+grooves, and the average furrier will often pay an experienced
+professional five dollars for a skin for which he would not offer
+a _dollar_ to an amateur. This certainly seems discouraging, but
+the knowledge of the fact is calculated to prevent _greater_
+discouragement.
+
+We often see fancy prices advertised by fur dealers for first-class
+skins; but when the furs are sent, only a few are selected as "_prime_,"
+the rest being rejected as worthless, or perhaps meeting with a
+meagre offer far below the regular rates. In this way the dealers
+have the opportunity of choice selection without incurring any
+risk. Many a young trapper has been thus disappointed, and has
+seen his small anticipated fortune dwindle down to very small
+proportions.
+
+The fur trade is supplied through regular professional channels;
+and in giving our advice to the novice, we would recommend as the
+most satisfactory and profitable plan that he should make his sales
+to some local hunter or trapper, who has had experience with the fur
+trade, and who is satisfied to pay a fair price for the various skins
+with the probability of selling at an advance, and thus realizing
+a profit.
+
+In nearly every trapping locality such men are to be found, and
+although the prices earned may be below the market rates, the amateur
+takes none of the speculative risks of the business, and should
+be willing to take lower prices on this account.
+
+
+AMERICAN FUR SKINS--THEIR USES AT HOME AND ABROAD.
+
+In the early history of fur apparel, its use was determined by
+_climate_; to-day, and especially in this country, it is regulated
+by the caprice of _fashion_. The mink for many years took the lead
+in the list of fashionable furs, but has of late been superseded
+by the introduction of the fur seal. The most choice and costly
+of our American furs at the present day is the Silver Fox. When
+highly dressed they are worth from 10 to 50 guineas each in the
+European market. They are principally bought by the Russians and
+Chinese.
+
+The skins of the Red Fox are purchased by the Chinese, Greeks,
+Persians, and other Oriental nations. They are made into linings
+for robes, etc., and ornamented with the black fur of the paws
+which is set on in spots or waves. The fur of the
+[Page 285]
+Beaver was formerly highly prized in the manufacture of hats and
+yielded a large portion of the profits of the Fur Companies,
+constituting the largest item in value among furs. Cheaper materials
+have since been substituted in making hats, and the demand for
+this purpose has been greatly reduced. By a new process the skin
+is now prepared as a handsome fur for collars and gauntlets, and
+its fine silky wool has been successfully woven. The soft, white
+fur from the belly of the animal, is largely used in France for
+bonnets.
+
+Raccoon skins are the great staple for Russia and Germany, where,
+on account of their durability and cheapness, they are in demand
+for linings for coats, etc. Among the Bear skins, those of the
+black and grizzly are extensively used for military caps, housings,
+holsters, sleigh robes, etc.
+
+The fur of the Lynx is soft, warm and light, and is commonly dyed
+of a beautiful shining black. It is used for the facings and linings
+of cloaks, chiefly in America.
+
+The Fisher yields a dark and full fur which is largely used in
+fashionable winter apparel.
+
+The skin of the Marten, is richly dyed and utilized in choice furs
+and trimmings.
+
+The Mink, like the two foregoing, belongs to the same genus as
+the Russian Sable, and its fur so much resembles the latter as to
+be sometimes mistaken for it. It is one of fashion's furs, and the
+hair of the tail is sometimes used in the manufacture of artist's
+pencils.
+
+The Muskrat produces the fur most worn by the masses, and is largely
+exported into Germany, France and England. It is estimated that
+over six millions of muskrat skins are annually taken in America,
+and of that number one-half are used in Germany alone.
+
+The skin of the Otter is at present classed among the leading
+fashionable furs in this country. They are dyed of a deep purplish
+black color, and are made into sacques, muffs, etc. It is also
+used by the Russians, Greeks and Chinese. It is mostly an American
+product, but is also procured to some extent in the British Isles
+from a smaller variety of the species.
+
+The skins of the Wolf are chiefly used for sleigh robes and such
+purposes. The fur of the Rabbit is mainly employed in the manufacture
+of felt, and is also utilized for lining and trimming. The business
+of breeding rabbits for their fur has been introduced into the
+United States, and large numbers have been successfully raised in
+Danbury, Conn., for felting purposes connected with the manufacture
+of hats.
+
+[Page 286]
+The fur of the Wolverine or Glutton, finds a market for the most
+part in Germany, where it is used for trimmings and cloak linings.
+
+The Skunk furnishes the fur known as Alaska Sable, which forms
+one of our staple pelts, many thousands being annually exported
+to Poland and the adjacent provinces.
+
+The Badger yields a valuable and fashionable fur, which is also
+extensively used in the manufacture of artist's brushes; a good
+"badger blender" forming a valuable accessory to a painter's outfit.
+Shaving brushes by the thousand are annually made from the variegated
+hair of the badger.
+
+The Opossum yields a fur in very common use among the masses, and
+the skins of the domestic Cat are utilized to a considerable extent
+in the manufacture of robes, mats, etc. The fur of the Puma and Wild
+Cat are also employed in this form, and may often be seen handsomely
+mounted and hanging on the backs of sleighs on our fashionable
+thoroughfares. Among the small game the skins of Squirrels are used
+for linings, and the soft, velvety fur of the Mole is manufactured
+into light robes, and very fine hats, and in theatrical paraphernalia
+is sometimes employed for artificial eyebrows.
+
+Full descriptions of the color of the various furs will be found
+in our lengthy illustrated chapter on our American animals.
+
+[Illustration: THE END.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 289]
+[Illustration: INDEX]
+
+A
+
+Adirondack experiences with mosquitoes, 256.
+Advice to the Novice on the sale of Furs, 283.
+Air-tight Jar, for butter, &c., 236.
+Alaska Sable, 286.--See also Skunk.
+Alcohol, its use and abuse, 257.
+Alum--used in waterproofing, 249.
+"Amateur Trapping," 225.
+AMBER, OIL OF, used in the art of Trapping, 152.
+AMERICAN FUR SKINS.--Table of values, 284.
+  Their uses at Home and Abroad, 284.
+American Lion.--See Puma.
+Amputation, self inflicted, as a means of escape with captured
+  animals, 144.
+  To prevent, 144, 145.
+Ancient uses of Furs, 278.
+ANISE, OIL OF.--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+  As bait for fish, 240.
+Annual yield of Furs throughout the world, 281.
+Apparatus for stretching skins, 273.
+Arrows, poisoned, 26.
+Arrow Traps, 23, 25.
+Artificial Eyebrows of Mole Fur, 286.
+ART OF TRAPPING, 148.
+ASSAFOETIDA.--
+  Its use by the Trapper, 151.
+  As scent bait for fish, 240.
+ASTOR, JOHN JACOB, and the Fur Trade, 281.
+Astringent Preparations, use of, in drying Skins, 273, 276.
+
+B
+
+BADGER, THE,--
+  Nature and habits of, 175.
+  Skinning the, 177.
+  Trapping the, 175.
+  Uses of Fur, 286.
+  Value of Fur, 284.
+Bags, Waterproof, for food, 236.
+Baiting the Steel Trap, 143.
+Baits for fishing, 240.
+Baits, scent, 149.
+Bait, Trapping without, 148.
+BARK SHANTY.--
+  Hints on, 266.
+  Details of construction, 245.
+Bark-Stone.--See Castoreum.
+Bark-Stone composition.--See Castoreum.
+"Barque."--See Birch Bark Canoe.
+Barrel Hoops used in canoe building, 264.
+BARREL TRAPS, 125, 127, 133.
+Basket for the shoulders, 234, 236.
+Basswood-bark canoes, 264.
+Bateaux, 264.
+BAT FOWLING NET, 70.
+Baking, recipe for, 253.
+Bay Lynx.--See Wild Cat.
+Beans as food, 235.
+BEAR.--
+  Nature and habits of, 168, 227.
+  Trapping the, 168.
+  Traps for, 17, 29, 143.
+  Various species of, 168.
+  Directions for removing skin, 172.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+"Bear Tamer," 137, 142.
+"Bear Chasing," dangers of the sport, 170.
+[Page 290]
+Bear Grease, 171.
+Bear Meat, to roast, 233.
+  "    " to dry, 237.
+BEAVER.--
+  Nature and habits of, 177.
+  Trapping the, 177.
+  Skinning the, 182.
+  Skin, to tan, 277.
+  Use of fur, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+BEDS AND BEDDING, 248.
+Bed, spring, 248.
+ "   hammock, swinging, 249.
+Bed clothes, 249.
+BIG HORN, the, 220.
+  As food, 220, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 220.
+  Trapping the, 220.
+BIRCH BARK CANOE, remarks on, 226.
+  Directions for making, 261.
+Bird-Catching Net, 70.
+BIRD LIME, 97.
+  Masticated Wheat used as, 99.
+  Recipe for making, 98.
+  Used in capture of Puma, 35.
+  Used for capture of Humming Bird, 99.
+  Used in making Fly-paper, 136.
+  Used with an Owl as decoy, 98.
+  With paper cone, as a Crow trap, 96.
+BIRD TRAPS, 65.
+  "  Box, 88, 90. 91.
+BIRD WHISTLE, 72.
+BISON.--See Buffalo.
+Black Fly.--See "Punkey."
+Blanket, woollen, 250.
+  Rubber, 236.
+  Use of, 250.
+Block-tin, used for kettles, &c., 235.
+Blossom, utilized as a trap, 99.
+Blow-gun, used in the capture of Humming Bird, 99.
+BOARD FLAP, the, 130.
+BOARD STRETCHERS, 273.
+BOATS, remarks on, 226.
+  Manufacture of, 259.
+  The dug-out, or log canoe, 259.
+  The birch-bark canoe, 261.
+  The bateau, 264.
+  The scow, 267.
+  The flat-bottomed boat, 267.
+Boiled Mush, 232.
+    "       to fry, 232.
+Boiling water used in bending wood, 268, 272.
+Book I. TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME, 17.
+    II. SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS, 39.
+   III. TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65.
+    IV. MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103.
+     V. HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125.
+    VI. STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137.
+   VII. THE CAMPAIGN, 225.
+  VIII. THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255.
+Boots, hints on, 228.
+  Grease for, 228.
+Bottle Lantern, 241.
+   "  Match Safe, 234.
+BOW STRETCHER, for skins, 274.
+BOW Traps, 23, 25, 116.
+BOWL TRAPS, 135, 136.
+Box Bird Traps, 55, 88, 90, 91.
+BOX DEAD FALL, 128.
+Box Hut, used in Pickerel fishing, 241.
+BOW OWL TRAP, 88.
+BOX PIT-FALL, 131.
+BOX SNARES, 55, 56.
+BOX TRAP, the, 103.
+  Two modes of setting, 105.
+Box Traps, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110.
+BOX TRAP, pendent, 91.
+Brandy on a trapping campaign, 257.
+Brass wire nooses, 41.
+Brick Trap, 66.
+Broiling, recipes for, 233.
+Brook Trout, fishing through the ice, 240.
+  "   To cook deliciously, 232.
+Bruises, ointment for, 255.
+Buckskin gloves, in handling traps, 149.
+Building the camp fire, 233.
+Buffalo, the, 220.
+  As food, 221, 238,
+  How hunted and trapped, 221.
+Building boats, 259.
+Butternut log, for canoe, 239.
+Butter, to keep on a campaign, 236.
+
+C
+
+Cage traps for birds, 76.
+     "      "  mice, 134.
+Call Birds, how used, 72.
+CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS, 225.
+CAMPAIGN, PLAN OF, 225.
+Camp fire, 228.
+  To build, 233.
+Camp Kettle, 235.
+  "  Knife, 235.
+  "  Stove, 228, 235.
+Canada Grouse, 238.
+   "   Lynx.--See Lynx.
+   "   Moose.--See Moose.
+Candles, in camp, 227.
+  "  Novel way of using, 218.
+[Page 291]
+Canned vegetables, 236.
+CANOES, remarks on, 226.
+  "     Basswood-bark, 264.
+  "     Birch-bark, directions for building, 261.
+  "     Hemlock bark, 264.
+  "     Log.--See Dug-out.
+  "     Spruce bark, 264.
+Canton flannel bags, for bed clothes, 249.
+Canvass-back Duck, as food, 239.
+Canvas bags, waterproof, 236.
+Caps, percussion, used in lighting fire, 234.
+CAPTURE OF ANIMALS, 154.
+CARPETING TENTS, 250.
+CASTOREUM, or Barkstone, 150.
+  How obtained, 150.
+  How used.--See Beaver.
+CASTOREUM COMPOSITION, 150.
+Cat, domestic, use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Cat, wild.--See Wild Cat.
+Caulking boats, 261, 266.
+Caution in baiting steel traps, 113.
+Caution in handling steel traps, 149.
+Chill, remedy for, 257.
+Chimney-fire in log shanty, 245.
+Chip as a plate, 232.
+Chip, for a frying pan, 230, 232.
+Chloride of Lime, as an antidote, 152.
+Choosing a trapping ground, 225.
+Cicely, Sweet, as scent bait in fishing, 240.
+Cities built up by the fur trade, 281.
+CLAP NET, 72.
+Clearing tents and shanties from insects, 230.
+Climate and fur apparel, 284.
+CLOG, THE, 146.
+Cloth for tent making, 247.
+  "  Waterproof preparation for, 247.
+Clothing, hints on, 228.
+Coasting on the Indian sled, 270.
+Cock of the plains, 238.
+Coffee, 236.
+Coffee-pot, 235.
+Cold, remedy for, 257.
+Combination camp-knife, 235.
+COMMON BOX TRAP, 103.
+Compass, pocket, 227.
+Compound scent-bait, 150, 153.
+Concealing steel traps, 229.
+Cone of paper as a trap, 96.
+Corrall, African trap, 34.
+COOKING UTENSILS FOR A CAMPAIGN, 230, 235.
+Coon.--See Raccoon.
+COOP TRAP, 67.
+  " For large game, 33.
+Cotton drilling, used for making tents, 247.
+  "  Waterproof preparation for, 247.
+"Cotton Tail."--See Rabbit.
+Cougar.--See Puma.
+Cow's udder, as fish bait, 240.
+Crackers as food, 236.
+Crow trap, 96.
+CUMMIN, used in trapping, 152.
+Cup, portable, 231.
+CURING SKINS, 272.
+Current price list of American furs, 284.
+
+D
+
+Dark lantern, used by bird catchers, 71.
+  Deer hunters, 217.
+DEAD-FALLS, 17, 29, 107, 111, 113.
+  "  Box, 128.
+  "  For large game, 17.
+  "  How set for the fox, 113.
+  "  Stone, 29.
+  "  Weighted harpoon, 26.
+  "  With figure four trap, 114.
+Dead fish, valuable in making trails, 153.
+Decoys, 72, 76, 94.
+Decoy traps, 72, 76, 94.
+  "  Whistle, 74.
+  "  Owl used as, 98.
+DEER, 124.
+  As food, 233, 237, 238.
+  How to skin the, 219.
+  Hunting at night, 217, 218.
+  Luminosity of eyes at night, 217, 218.
+  Natural characteristics of, 214.
+  Salt as bait for, 218.
+  Season for hunting, 218.
+  Trapping the, 214, 215.
+  Various modes of hunting, 217.
+  Various species of, 215.
+Deer lick, the, 215.
+Deer meat, to dry, 237.
+Deer meat, to roast, 233.
+Delmonico outdone, 232.
+Detecting the direction of the wind by the finger, 217.
+Devices used in connection with the steel trap, 144, 147.
+Devils' Lantern, 241.
+Diet of the Trapper, 230.
+"DOUBLE ENDER," the, 109.
+Double traps, 57, 109, 110, 129.
+DOWN FALL, the, 26.
+Dressing for fur skins, 273, 276.
+Dressing for leather, 228.
+Dressing skins for market, 272.
+  "  Home use, 276.
+Dried fish, 237.
+Dried venison, 237.
+Drilling, as tent material, 247.
+  "  Waterproof preparation for, 247.
+[Page 292]
+Drinking cup, portable, 231.
+Drying skins, 272, 273, 276.
+Ducks, various species of, 239.
+  As food, 239.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+DUCK TRAPS, 94, 95.
+"DUG-OUT," THE, hints on, 226.
+  Detailed directions for making, 259.
+
+E
+
+Eels, oil prepared from, 151.
+Elk.--See Moose.
+"Ephraim."--See Bear.
+Escaping from the mosquitoes, 255.
+Exports of furs, 281, 285.
+Extemporized frying pan, 232.
+  "Toaster," 233.
+Extract of beef, Liebig's, 236.
+Extravagance in fur apparel, 279.
+
+F
+
+False bottom traps, 127, 131, 133.
+Fashion and fur, 279, 283, 285.
+FEATHERED GAME, TRAPS FOR, 65.
+Felt, use of rabbit-fur in making, 286.
+FENNEL, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152.
+FENUGREEK, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152.
+FIGURE FOUR SNARE, 61.
+FIGURE FOUR TRAP, 107.
+  "  Used with Dead-Fall, 114.
+Finger, as a weather vane, 217.
+Fire, to build, 227.
+  "  To light without matches, 234.
+  "  With powder and cap, 234.
+  "  Without "anything," 235.
+Fire arms, 227.
+  "  Oil for, 227.
+Fire bottle, 241.
+Fire Hat for night hunting, 218.
+Fire-proof preparations for tents, 247.
+Fish, to bake, 232.
+  To dry, 237.
+  To fry, 233.
+FISHER MARTEN.--
+  How to trap the animal, 194.
+  Its nature and habits, 194.
+  Its common mode of release from capture, 144.
+  Method of skinning, 195.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+FISH-HOOK, trap for ducks, 95.
+Fishing, hints on, 239.
+  At night, 239.
+  Through the ice, 240.
+  Various baits, 240.
+  With tip-up. 240.
+  For pickerel, 240.
+Fishing tackle, 227, 240, 241.
+Fish lantern, 241.
+FISH OIL, used in the art of trapping, 151.
+  How obtained, 151.
+Fish, scent baits for, 240.
+  Spearing, 239.
+Fish traps, 120, 241.
+Flat bottomed boats, 264, 267.
+Flat bottomed sled.--See Toboggan
+Flat stone, as a frying pan, 232.
+Flower, converted into a trap, 99.
+Fly, black.--See "Punkey."
+FLY-PAPER, to make, 136.
+Fly Tent, the, 246.
+Fly traps, 136.
+Food, portable, 230.
+FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS, 230.
+"FOOLS' CAP" TRAP FOR CROWS, 96.
+Forks, 235.
+Fortunes founded on peltry, 281.
+FOWLING NET, the, 70.
+Fox.--
+  Nature and habits of, 154.
+  Trapping the, 154.
+  Trapped by a dead-fall, 111, 113.
+  Varieties of, 154.
+  Directions for skinning, 158.--See also Red and Silver Fox.
+"Fox fire," used in capture of deer, 218.
+Fritters, pork, to cook, 231.
+Frying pan, 231, 235.
+  "  An extemporized, 232.
+Fur Market, eccentricities of, 283.
+Furs, ancient uses of, 278.
+  Annual yield throughout the world, 281.
+Furs, best season for, 147.
+  "Home," 281.
+  Sale of, by Hudson's Bay Company, 281.
+  "Shipping," 281.
+  Table of market values, 282.
+Fur skins, to cure for market, 272.
+  To tan, 276.
+  Hints on selling for profit, 283.
+  Various uses of, 285.
+FUR TRADE, OBSERVATIONS ON, 278.
+  Immensity of, 281.
+
+G
+
+Game, protected from wolves, 237.
+GAROTTE TRAP, 114.
+Gloves to be used in trapping, 149.
+Glutton.--See Wolverine.
+[Page 293]
+Gnats, 230, 256.
+  Painful effects of their bites, 256.
+  Remedies for their bites, 255.
+  Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
+Gnat, black.--See "Punkey."
+Goose trap, 75.
+GOPHER.--
+  Nature and habits of, 205.
+  Trapping the, 205.
+  Traps for, 119, 120, 40.
+  Directions for skinning, 206.
+Grappling iron, the, 146.
+Grease for boots and shoes, 228.
+"Great Bear Tamer," the, 142.
+GRIZZLY BEAR.--
+  Nature and habits of, 169.
+  Trapping the, 169.
+  Traps for, 17, 142.
+  Use of fur, 285.
+Ground plan of trapping lines, 228.
+Ground, selection for trapping, 225,
+GROUND SNARES, 44.
+Grouse, as food, 233, 238.
+  Bait for, 42.
+  Oil of, for fire arms, 227.
+  Peculiarities of, 42.
+  Snares for, 39.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+  Various species of, 238.
+GUN TRAP, 20.
+
+H
+
+Hair Nooses, 41.
+Half tent, 246.
+Hammocks, 250,
+Hammock bed, 249.
+Handling steel traps, caution in, 149.
+Hanging bed, 249.
+Hare.--See Rabbit.
+HARPOON TRAP of Africa, 26.
+Hat Brim, portable, 258.
+  Netting attachment for, 258.
+Hat lantern for night hunting, 218.
+Hawk snare, 43.
+HAWK TRAP, 93.
+Head lantern used in deer hunting, 218.
+HEAD NET, 257.
+HEDGE NOOSES, 41.
+Hemlock bark canoes, 264.
+Hemlock boughs, as bedding, 250.
+Hemp, used in caulking boats, 261, 266.
+"Hiding" steel traps, 229.
+High top boots, 228.
+Hints on baiting the steel trap, 143.
+Hints on selection of trapping ground, 225.
+Hints on skinning animals, 272.
+Hints on trapping, 148.
+Hints on plans of trapping lines, 228.
+Hints on sale of furs, 283.
+Hippopotamus trap, 26.
+Historical items relating to furs and the fur trade, 278.
+Hoe cake, to cook, 232.
+Hogs carried off by bears, 170.
+Hog's liver used as fish bait, 240.
+"Home Furs," 281.
+HOME-MADE BOAT, 264.
+Honey as bait, 19, 31, 170.
+Hook trap for ducks, 95.
+Hopo, African trap, 34.
+Hoop nooses, 40.
+HOOP STRETCHER for skins, 275.
+Horse hair nooses, to make, 41.
+Hot drink for chills, 257.
+HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125.
+House Tent, 247.
+How to select a steel trap, 138.
+HOW TO TRAP, 153.
+Hudson Bay Company, origin of, 280.
+  Sales of, 281, 282.
+Humming bird, killed by concussion, 99.
+  "  Snare, 99.
+  "  Trap, 99.
+  "  Various modes of capture, 99.
+Hunting the deer, 217.
+Hunting from trees, 218.
+HUT, LOG.--See Log Shanty.
+
+I
+
+Implements required on a trapping campaign, 227.
+Improved springle, 60.
+INDIAN CANOE.--See BIRCH BARK CANOE.
+Indian meal, as food, 231.
+INDIAN SLEDGE.--See Toboggan.
+INDIAN SNOW SHOE, 268.
+India-rubber blanket, 236.
+  How used, 250.
+INSECT OINTMENTS, 255.
+Insect bites, remedies for, 255.
+  "  Sores resulting from, 257.
+Insects, to drive out from tent or shanty, 230, 256.
+Intemperance, 257.
+
+J
+
+Jack knife, a valuable tool, 227. Jar, as a trap, 135.
+[Page 294]
+Jar, air-tight, for butter, 236.
+"Jerked Venison," 231.
+JOHN JACOB ASTOR, and the fur trade, 281.
+Johnny cake, to cook, 232.
+
+K
+
+Kettle, camp, 235.
+Knapsack, 234.
+  Directions for making, 236.
+Knife, a necessary implement, 227.
+Knife, the combination camp, 235.
+Knives, table, 235.
+
+L
+
+Lake trout, fishing for, 240.
+  To cook deliciously, 232.
+Lantern for the head, used by deer hunters, 218.
+Lantern used by bird catchers, 71.
+Lantern trap for fish, 241.
+Large game, traps for, 17.
+LAVENDER, used in the art of trapping, 152.
+Leather preservative, 228.
+"Le Chat."--See Lynx.
+Lemonade, 236.
+Lens, to light fire with, 234.
+Lever for setting large steel traps, 142.
+Liebig's extract of beef, 236.
+Light, the trapper's, 227.
+Light for the head in night hunting, 218.
+Light home-made boat, 264.
+Lime, chloride of, as a disinfectant, 152.
+Liniment for wounds and bruises, 255.
+  "  Insect bites, 255.
+Linseed oil, used as bird lime, 98.
+Lion, American.--See Puma.
+LIST OF PRICES OF AMBRICAN FURS, 284.
+Liver, as fish bait, 240.
+LOG CABIN.--See Log Shanty.
+Log Canoe.--See Dug-Out.
+LOG COOP TRAP, 33.
+LOG SHANTY, hints on, 226, 229.
+  Detailed directions for building, 244.
+  Site for building, 244, 287.
+  To clear of gnats and mosquitoes, 230.
+Lucifer Matches.--See Matches.
+"Luxuries," 234.
+LYNX, THE CANADIAN, 164.
+  Natural characteristics of, 164.
+  Trapping the, 164.
+  Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 33, 35, 141.
+LYNX.--
+  Directions for skinning, 166.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+
+M
+
+Mackinaw and the Fur Trade, 281.
+Mallard Duck as food, 239.
+  "  to Cook.--See Duck.
+MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS, 281.
+Marmot.--See Woodchuck.
+MARTEN:--
+  Nature and habits of, 192.
+  Trapping the, 192.
+  Its common mode of escape, 144.
+  Directions for removing skin, 194.
+  How to tan the Skin, 277.
+  Value and use of skin, 284, 285.
+Mastic Varnish used in water-proofing, 234.
+MATCHES, 227.
+  Bottle used for carrying, 234.
+  To render water-proof, 234.
+Meal, Indian, as food, 231.
+Meat, to dry, 237.
+"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS, 149.
+Menagerie Whistle, 74.
+Merganser, the, as food, 239,
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+MIDGETS, 256.
+  Painful effect of their bites, 256.
+  Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
+  Ointments for bites, 255.
+  Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
+MINK:--
+  Nature and habits of, 189.
+  Trapping the, 189.
+  Traps for, 43, 141.
+  Its common mode of escape from the steel trap, 144.
+  Directions for skinning, 191.
+  To tan skin of, 277.
+  Extensive use of skins in America, 281.
+  Uses of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+MISCELLANEOUS hints on trapping, 148.
+MISCELLANY, the Trapper's, 255,
+MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103.
+MOLE, 207.
+  Beauty of fur, 209, 211.
+  Life and habits of, 207.
+  Trapping the, 119, 210.
+  Traps for, 119, 120, 140.
+  Varieties of, 211.
+  Directions for skinning.--See Gopher.
+  Use of fur, 286.
+[Page 295]
+Montreal and the Fur Trade, 281.
+MOOSE:--
+  Nature and habits of, 219.
+  Trapping the, 220.
+  "Yards," 220.
+  Flesh as food, 220, 223, 238.
+  How to skin the animal, 220.
+Moose meat, to roast, 233.
+  "  Meat to dry, 237.
+MOSQUITOES, 230.
+  Painful effects of their bites, 257.
+  Ointments for bites, 255.
+  Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
+  Adirondack experiences with, 255, 256.
+  Head-net, 257.
+  Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
+Mouse Traps, 124, 130, 131, 134, 135.
+Mud Stick or Pusher, 267.
+Mush, to boil, 232.
+  to fry, 232.
+MUSK:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 151.
+  How obtained, 151.
+MUSKRAT:--
+  Nature and habits of, 182.
+  Pit-fall Trap for, 133.
+  Spearing the, 183.
+  Trapping the, 182.
+  Traps for, 43, 107, 110, 111, 114, 133, 141.
+  Its common mode of release, 144.
+  Extensive use of skins in America, 281.
+  Skin, to remove, 185.
+    To tan, 277.
+    Use of, 286.
+    Value of, 284.
+Muscovy Duck as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+Musquaw.--See Bear.
+
+N
+
+Natural Advantages utilized by the Trapper, 149.
+Natural History.
+  Necessity of its study in the art of Trapping, 148.
+Neatsfoot Oil for Fire Arms, 227.
+NET:--
+  " Bat fowling, 70.
+  " Bird catching, 70.
+  " Clap, 72.
+  " Decoy, 72.
+  " Fish, use of, 241.
+Net for the head, 257.
+  "  Fowling, 70.
+Net traps, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85.
+  For Tiger, Puma, or Wild Cat, 35.
+  Spring, 80.
+  The upright, 85.
+  Wild Duck, 94.
+  Wild Goose, 175.
+Netting attachment for Hat brim, 258.
+NEWHOUSE TRAP, THE, 138.
+Night-hunting, 217, 218.
+Night-fishing, 239.
+Nooses:--
+  Horse hair, 41.
+  In hedge, 42.
+  On hoops, 40.
+  On string, 40.
+NOOSE TRAPS, 39.
+Nooses, wire, 41.
+Northwest Fur Company, 280.
+Nutting in Mid-winter, 212.
+
+O
+
+Oar-locks, simple, 266.
+Oat-meal as food, 236.
+OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE, 278.
+Oil, Fish.--
+  Used in trapping, 151.
+  How obtained, 151.
+Oil of Amber.--
+  Used in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Ambergris.--
+  Used in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Anise:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Cinnamon:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Fennel:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Fenugreek:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Lavender:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Rhodium:--
+  Its use by trappers, 151.
+Oil of Skunk:--
+  Its use by trappers, 151.
+Oil:--
+  For fire arms, 227.
+  For light, 227.
+Oil of Partridge:--
+  Its use, 227.
+Oil of Pennyroyal:--
+  For insect bite, 255.
+[Page 296]
+Ointment for Bruises and Wounds, 255.
+OINTMENT FOR INSECT BITES, 255.
+OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE, 58.
+Olive Oil in cooking, 236.
+OPOSSUM, 201.
+  Nature and habits of, 202.
+  Trapping the, 201.
+  Hunting the, 202.
+  Directions for skinning, 203.
+  Uses of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+OTTER:--
+  Nature and habits of, 202.
+  Trapping the, 186.
+  Directions for skinning, 189.
+  How to tan the skin, 277.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+OWL TRAP, 88.
+Owl:--
+  Used in connection with bird lime as decoy, 98.
+
+P
+
+Paint as a water-proof covering, 236.
+Painter, the.--See Puma.
+Panther, the.--See Puma.
+Paper Cone used as a trap, 96.
+Partridge, 42, 238.
+  As food, 238.
+  Fat for fire arms, 227.
+  Snares, 39, etc.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+Peltry:--
+  Fortunes founded on, 281.
+  Cities built up on, 281.
+PENDENT BOX, BIRD TRAP, 91.
+Pennyroyal for insect bites, 255.
+Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257.
+Percussion Cap used in lighting lire, 234.
+Peshoo, the.--See Lynx.
+Phosphorescent wood used in night-hunting, 218.
+Phosphorus lantern for catching fish, 241.
+Pickerel fishing, 240.
+  "  Spearing, 241.
+  "  Trap for, 121.
+  "  To cook, 233.
+Pigeon Net-trap, 72.
+Pigs carried off by Bears, 170.
+Pine Log Canoe.--See Dug-out.
+Pinnated Grouse, 238.
+Pitch for stopping leaks, 261, 264, 266.
+PIT-FALL TRAPS.--
+  For large game, 31.
+  For small game, 125, 127, 131.
+  Barrel, 127.
+  Box, 131.
+  For Muskrat, 133.
+PLAN OF TRAPPING CAMPAIGN, 225.
+Plates, substitutes for, 232, 235.
+Platform snare. 61.
+Poachers, or trap robbers, 229.
+POACHER'S SNARE, 48.
+Pocket compass, 227.
+POCKET HAT BRIM, 258.
+  "  Sun-glass, 234.
+Poisoned arrows, 26.
+POISONING, 222.
+Pop-corn as bait for Quail, 54.
+Portable boats, 259.
+Portable food & cooking utensils, 230, 235.
+Portable drinking cup, 231.
+  Hat brim, 258.
+   " With netting attached, 258.
+  Snares, 50, 52.
+  Stove, 228, 235.
+Pork as food, 231.
+  "  Fritters, 251.
+  "     "  To make, 232.
+"Possum."--See Opossum.
+Potatoes as food, 235.
+Pouched Rat.--See Gopher.
+Powder used in lighting fire, 234.
+Prairie Hen, 238.
+Prairie Whistle, 74.
+Precautions in handling steel traps, 156.
+PREFACE, 3.
+Preparation of skins for market, 272.
+Preserve jar used as trap, 135.
+Price Current of American Furs, 284.
+Prime fur, best season for, 147.
+Prof. Blot outdone in cooking, 232.
+Profit in selling furs, 233.
+PRONGHORN Antelope, 221.
+  Nature and habits of, 221.
+  How hunted and trapped, 221, 238.
+Provisions, to protect from Wolves, 237.
+Ptarmigan, to cook, 233.
+  Trap for, 75.
+  How hunted and trapped, 239.
+  Various species of, 230.
+PUMA:--
+  Bait for, 20, 31, 32, 163.
+  Nature and habits of, 161.
+  Peculiarities of, 20.
+  Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 31, 33, 141.
+  Trapping the, 161.
+  Directions for skinning, 164.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Pumice Stone, used in finishing skins, 276.
+"PUNKEY."--
+  Description of the Insect, 256.
+  Severity of bites, 256.
+  Ointment for bites, 255.
+  Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
+[Page 297]
+Punk Tinder, used in lighting fire, 234. "Pusher."--See Mud stick.
+Putty, for stopping leaks, 261.
+
+Q
+
+Quail, bait for, 40, 54.
+  "  Snares, 39, 40, 41, etc.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+Quotations of the Fur Market, 284.
+
+R
+
+RABBIT:--
+  As food, 238.
+  Bait for, 203.
+  How to skin, 204.
+  Nature and habits of, 203.
+  Salt as bait for, 109,
+  Traps for, 43, 64, 103.
+  Use of fur, 286.
+  Value of fur, 284.
+  Varieties of, 203.
+RACCOON:--
+  As a pet, 173.
+  Nature and habits of, 172.
+  Trapping the, 172.
+  Traps for, 110, 116, 141.
+  Hunting the, 172.
+  Directions for skinning, 175.
+  How to tan the skin, 277.
+  Use of the fur, 285.
+  Value of the fur, 284.
+Rat:--
+  Snares for, 43.
+  Trapping the, 125.
+  Traps for, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138.
+Rations for a Campaign, 230.
+Raw Furs.--See Furs.
+Recipe for insect ointments, 255.
+  Boot grease, 228.
+  For cooking, 230.
+  For curing skins, 272.
+  For tanning skins, 276.
+Red Fox.--See Fox.
+Red Fox.--
+  Value of skin, 284.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+Red Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257.
+Red Squirrel.--See Squirrel.
+Remedies for insect bites, 255.
+  For chills, 257.
+Requisites of a good steel trap, 138.
+  "  For snaring, 39.
+  "  For a good trapping ground, 225.
+  "  For a trapping campaign, 227.
+Revolver, 227.
+Reynard outwitted by a dead-fall, 111, 113.
+RHODIUM, Oil of:--
+  Its use by the trapper, 151.
+Rice as food, 236.
+Rifle and Shot Gun combined, 227.
+  Oil for, 227.
+RIFLE TRAP, 20.
+Roasting, recipes for, 233.
+Rocky Mountain Sheep.--See Big Horn.
+"Roughing it," 230.
+Rubber blanket, 236.
+  How used, 250.
+Ruffed Grouse.--See Partridge.
+Rum on a trapping campaign, 257.
+
+S
+
+Sage Cock, the, 238.
+Sale of furs by the Hudson's Bay Company, 282.
+Salmon, spearing, 239.
+  "  Spear, 239.
+Salmon Trout, spearing, 239.
+Salmon, to cook deliciously, 232.
+Salt as bait for Deer, 218.
+  As bait for Rabbit, 109.
+Salt Lick, the, 218.
+Sandpaper used in softening skins, 276.
+Salt Pork as food, 231.
+SCENT BAITS, 149.
+  "  Compound, 150, 153.
+Scented baits for birds, 240.
+Scented baits for fish, 240.
+Season for Deer hunting, 218.
+Scow, 267.
+Season for trapping, 147.
+Selection of trapping ground, 225.
+Self-amputation as a means of escape with captured animals, 144.
+Self-amputation, to prevent, 144, 145.
+Self-raising flour, 235.
+SELF-SETTING TRAPS, 110, 125, 127, 131.
+SHANTY:--
+  Bark.--See Bark Shanty.
+  "Home."--See Log Shanty.
+  Log.--See Log Shanty.
+Sheeting as tent material, 247.
+  Water-proof, preparation for, 247.
+Shellac Varnish used in water-proofing, 234.
+SHELTER:--The trapper's remarks on, 226.
+Shelter tent, 247.
+  Details of construction, 242.
+Shingle stretchers for skins, 274.
+[Page 298]
+"Shipping furs," 281.
+SHOOTING AND POISONING, 222.
+Shot-gun Trap, 20.
+Shot-gun combined with rifle, 267.
+Shoulder basket, 234, 226.
+SIEVE TRAP, 65.
+Silver Fox, 154.
+  Value of skin, 284, 285.
+Skinning animals, hints on, 272.
+Skins:--
+  Stretchers for, 273.
+  To dry, 272, 276.
+  To soften, 276, 277.
+  To tan, 276.
+  Value of, 284.
+  Use of, 285.
+SKUNK, 195.
+  Adventure with, 196.
+  As food, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 195.
+  Trapping the, 195.
+  Traps for, 43, 111, 114, 141.
+  To eradicate odor of, 152, 198.
+  Oil of, used in trapping, 151.
+  Directions for skinning, 198.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Sled, Indian.--See Toboggan.
+SLIDING POLE, 145.
+Slippery Elm used for bird-lime, 98.
+"Small Game" as food, 237.
+Smell, acute sense of, in animals, 148.
+Smoking the steel trap, 128.
+Smouldering birch bark to drive away insects, 230.
+Smudge, the, 230, 256.
+SNARE.--
+  Box, 55.
+  Double box, 56.
+  Fig. Four, 62.
+  Hawk, 43.
+  Hedge, 42.
+  Hoop, 40.
+  Humming-bird, 99.
+  Knotted string, 52, 53, 54.
+  Pasteboard box, 56.
+  Platform, 61.
+  Poacher's, 48.
+  Portable, 48, 50, 52.
+  Quail, 53.
+  Rat, 43.
+  "Simplest," 52.
+  Springle, 58, 60.
+  Stovepipe, 120.
+  Tree, 42.
+  Triangle, 42.
+  Twitchup, 43.
+  Wood Chuck, 43.
+SNARES, OR NOOSE TRAPS, 37.
+Snaring, requisites for, 39.
+Snow Grouse, the, 238.
+SNOW-SHOES, 267.
+Snow-shoe race, 267.
+Softening skins, 276, 277.
+Sores resulting from insect bites, 257.
+Soups, recipes for, 236.
+Spearing fish, 239, 241.
+Spearing Muskrats, 183.
+Spider for cooking, 233.
+Spoons, 235.
+Spring-bed, 249.
+SPRINGLE, 58, 60.
+Spring-net Traps, 80.
+Spring-pole, the, 144.
+Spring, to temper, 84.
+Spruce Bark Canoes, 264.
+Spruce boughs as bedding, 250.
+Spruce Grouse, 238.
+SQUIRRELS, 211.
+  As food, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 211.
+  Traps for, 43, 103, 106, 107, 110, 116, 128, 140.
+  Various species of, 213.
+  To cook, 233.
+  Use of skins, 286.
+STEEL TRAPS, 137.
+  Caution in handling, 149.
+  Concealing in the woods, 229,
+  Various modes of setting, 144.
+  Requisite number for a campaign, 227.
+  To set for rats, 128.
+  To select judiciously, 138.
+  Requisites of, 138.
+  Hints on baiting, 143.
+Steel Trap spring, to set with lever, 142.
+STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137.
+Still hunting, 217.
+Stimulants, 257.
+Stone Dead-fall, 29.
+Storing traps in the woods, 229.
+Stove, portable, 228, 235.
+Stovepipe fish-trap, 120.
+St. Paul, Minn., and the Fur Trade, 281.
+STRETCHERS FOR SKINS, 273.
+Strychnine poisoning, 222.
+Sucker wire nooses, 41.
+Sugar of lead used in water-proofing, 247.
+Sun-glass, 234, 235,
+Sweet Cicely as bait for fish, 240.
+SWEET FENNEL.--
+  Oil used in trapping, 152,
+Sweet Oil and Tar Ointment for insect bites, 255.
+Swinging bed, 249.
+
+[Page 299]
+T
+
+Table knife and bowl trap, 135.
+Table showing sale of furs by Hudson Bay Company, 282.
+Tallow, mutton, as ointment, 255.
+Tame Geese as decoys, 75.
+TANNING SKINS, 276.
+  Mixtures, 276, 277, 278.
+  With the hair on, 276.
+  Simple, 278.
+Tar and Sweet Oil ointment for insect bites, 255.
+Tar for water-proofing, 264.
+Tea, 236.
+ " Red pepper, as a remedy, 257.
+Teal Ducks as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+"Telescope" Drinking Cup, 231.
+Tempering iron spring, 84.
+TENTS, 246.
+  House-tent, 246.
+  Fly-tent, 247.
+  Half-tent, 247.
+  Shelter-tent, 247.
+  Materials, 247.
+  Water-proof preparation for, 247.
+  Fire-proof preparation for, 247.
+  To carpet with spruce, 250.
+  To clear of gnats and musquitoes, 230.
+TENT CARPETING, 250.
+Thimble used with bowl as Mouse trap, 136.
+Tiger captured with bird lime, 35.
+Tiger trap, 31.
+Tinder, 234.
+Tip-ups, 240.
+Toaster, an extemporized, 233.
+TOBOGGAN, OR INDIAN SLEDGE, 269.
+Tools required on a trapping campaign, 227.
+Tools required for canoe building, 259.
+Torch for the head, used in night hunting, 218.
+"Touch-wood " used in lighting fire, 234.
+Trail. The.--
+  Its value to the trapper, 153.
+  Various modes of making, 153.
+TRAP.--
+  Arrow, 23, 25.
+  Barrel. 125, 127.
+  Bird, 65, 70, 73, 75, 88, 90, 91, 96.
+  Bow, 23, 25, 116.
+  Bowl, 135.
+  Box, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110.
+  Brick, 66.
+  Cage, 76, 134.
+  Cob house, 67.
+  Coon, 110, 116, 141.
+  Coop, 33, 67, 70.
+  Crow, 96.
+  Dead-fall, 17, 107, 111.
+  Decoy, 72, 76, 94.
+  Double ender, 109.
+  Down-fall, 26.
+  Duck, 94, 95.
+  Fish, 120.
+  Fish hook, 95.
+  Fly, 136.
+  Fool's-cap, 96.
+  Garotte, 114.
+  Gun, 20.
+  Harpoon, 26.
+  Hawk, 42, 93.
+  Hook, 95.
+  Jar, 135.
+  Mole, 119, 120.
+  Mouse, 130, 131, 134, 135.
+  Net, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85.
+  Owl, 88.
+  Partridge, 43, etc.
+  Pendent Box, 91.
+  Pitfall, 11, 125, 127, 131.
+  Ptarmigan, 75.
+  Quail, 39, 40, 41, 53.
+  Rabbit, 43, 64, 103.
+  Rat, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138.
+  Rifle, 20.
+  Self-setting, 110, 125, 127, 131.
+  Sieve, 65.
+  Spring net, 80, 83, 85.
+  Steel, 140.
+  The "Newhouse," 140.
+  Tree, 42, 91.
+  Upright net, 85.
+  Wild Duck, 94, 95.
+  Wild Goose, 75.
+  Woodchuck, 43.
+Trapper's beds and bedding, 248.
+  "  Cooking utensils, 230.
+  "  Diet, 230.
+TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255.
+  "  Shelter, 226, 242.
+  "  Sled.--See Toboggan.
+TRAPPING, art of, 148.
+  Season for, 147.
+  Miscellaneous hints on, 148.
+  Campaign, plan of, 225.
+    Tools and other requisites, 227.
+    Ground, selection of, 225.
+  Valuable suggestions on, 228.
+Trapping Lines, 226.
+Trap robbers, 220.
+Traps for large game, 17.
+[Page 300]
+  FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65.
+  HOUSEHOLD, 125.
+Tree hunting, 218.
+Tree snare, 42.
+  "  Traps, 42, 91.
+TRIANGLE SNARE, 42.
+Trout, to cook deliciously, 232.
+Trumpet Creeper flower used as a trap, 99.
+Tumbler fly-trap, 136.
+Twitch-up, 43, 62.
+  Poacher's, 48.
+  Portable, 50.
+  "Simplest," 52.
+
+U
+
+UPRIGHT NET TRAP, 85.
+  "  Snares 44, 58.
+Use and abuse of Alcohol, 257.
+Uses of fur skins, 285.
+Utensils for cooking, 230, 235.
+
+V
+
+Value of fur skins, table of, 262.
+Various uses of fur skins, 285.
+Varnish water-proof preparation for preserving matches, 234.
+Vegetables for food on a campaign, 235.
+  "  Canned, 236.
+Venison as food, 233, 237.
+  To roast, 233.
+  To preserve, 237.
+  "Jerked," 237.
+  Dried, 237.
+
+W
+
+Walking on the snow, 267.
+War in the fur trade, 281.
+Watch crystal as sun glass, 287.
+Water fowl as food, 239.
+Water-proof application for boats, 261, 264, 266.
+  "  Canvas bags, for food, 236.
+Match safe, 234.
+  "  Preparation, 236, 247, 266.
+  "  Varnish for matches, 234.
+Water traps, 110, 120.
+Wedge stretcher for skins, 274.
+Weighted harpoon trap, 26.
+Wheaten grits as trappers' food, 236.
+Wheat flour as food, 235.
+  "  Self-raising, 235.
+Wheel form of trapping lines, 229.
+Whiskey on a trapping campaign, 257.
+Whip lashes from Woodchuck hide, 204.
+Whistlebird, 74.
+White Birch Canoe, 261.
+White-wood log for Dug-out, 259.
+Widgeon, the, as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+WILD CAT:--
+  Nature and habits of, 167.
+  Snares for, 43.
+  Trapping the, 166.
+  Skinning the, 168.
+  Uses of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Wild Duck, to cook, 233.
+Wild Duck, traps, 94, 95.
+Wild Goose as food, 239.
+Wild Goose to cook, 233.
+Wild Goose trap, 75.
+Wind, direction of, to detect by the finger, 217.
+Winged vermin, 255.
+Winter fishing, 240.
+Wire cage trap for birds, 76.
+  "    "  For mice, 134.
+Wire nooses, 41.
+WOLF.--
+  Nature and habits of, 158.
+  Trapping the, 158.
+  Poisoning the, 222.
+  Traps for, 20, 141.
+  To protect provisions from, 237.
+  Varieties of, 158.
+  Directions for skinning, 161.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+WOLVERINE:--
+  Nature and habits of, 199, 238.
+  Trapping the, 199.
+  Natural enemy to the Beaver, 200.
+  Directions for skinning, 201.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+WOODCHUCK, 204.
+  As food, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 204.
+  Snare, 205.
+  Trapping the, 204.
+  Use of skin, 204.
+  Smoked from its burrow, 205.
+  Removing skin of, 205.
+Woodcock, to cook, 233.
+Wood Duck as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+Woodland beds and bedding, 249.
+Wounds, ointment for, 255.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks
+of Trapping and Trap Making, by William Hamilton Gibson
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diff --git a/17093.zip b/17093.zip
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #17093 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/17093)
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of
+Trapping and Trap Making, by William Hamilton Gibson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net
+
+
+Title: Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making
+
+Author: William Hamilton Gibson
+
+Release Date: November 18, 2005 [EBook #17093]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert J. Hall
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS
+
+AND THE
+
+TRICKS OF TRAPPING
+
+AND
+
+TRAP MAKING
+
+
+CONTAINING
+
+COMPREHENSIVE HINTS ON CAMP SHELTER, LOG HUTS, BARK SHANTIES, WOODLAND
+BEDS AND BEDDING, BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, AND VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS
+ON TRAPPERS' FOOD, ETC. WITH EXTENDED CHAPTERS ON THE TRAPPER'S
+ART, CONTAINING ALL THE "TRICKS" AND VALUABLE BAIT RECIPES OF THE
+PROFESSION; FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE USE OF THE STEEL TRAP, AND
+FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF TRAPS OF ALL KINDS; DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS
+FOR THE CAPTURE OF ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS; VALUABLE RECIPES FOR
+THE CURING AND TANNING OF FUR SKINS, ETC., ETC.
+
+
+BY W. HAMILTON GIBSON
+
+AUTHOR OF "PASTORAL DAYS"
+
+
+_ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR_
+
+
+
+
+[Page 1]
+TO MY BELOVED FRIENDS
+
+MR. AND MRS. F. W. GUNN,
+
+KIND INSTRUCTORS, AND PARTICIPANTS
+
+IN THE
+
+BRIGHTEST JOYS OF MY YOUTH,
+
+THIS BOOK IS
+
+AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY
+
+THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 3]
+[Illustration]
+
+PREFACE
+
+[Illustration: O]f all the various subjects in the catalogue of sports
+and pastimes, there is none more sure of arousing the enthusiasm of
+our American boys generally, than that which forms the title of
+this book. Traps and Trapping, together with its kindred branches,
+always have been and always _will_ be subjects of great interest
+among boys, and particularly so to those who live in the country.
+
+It is a fact to be regretted that we have so few examples of "Boys'
+Books" published in this country. There are a few English works
+of this character, that are very excellent as far as they go, but
+are nevertheless incomplete and unsatisfactory to the wants of
+American boys, dwelling largely on sports which are essentially
+English, and merely touching upon or utterly excluding _other_
+topics which are of the _utmost_ interest to boys of this country.
+In no one of these books, so far as the author of the present volume
+knows, is the subject of Traps considered to any fair extent, and
+those examples which are given, represent only the most common
+and universal varieties already known to the general public.
+
+[Page 4]
+With these facts in mind, the author has entered with zealous enthusiasm
+upon the preparation of a work which shall fill this odd and neglected
+corner in literature, and judging from the reminiscences of his
+own boyish experiences, he feels certain that in placing such a
+volume within reach of the public, he supplies a long felt want
+in the hearts of his boy-friends throughout the land.
+
+Far be it from us in the publication of this volume, to be understood
+as encouraging the wanton destruction of poor innocent animals. Like
+all kindred sports, hunting and fishing for example, the sport of
+Trapping may be perverted and carried to a point where it becomes
+simple cruelty, as is _always_ the case when pursued for the mere
+_excitement_ it brings. If the poor victims are to serve no use
+after their capture, either as food, or in the furnishing of their
+plumage or skins for useful purposes, the sport becomes heartless
+cruelty, and we do not wish to be understood as encouraging it
+under any such circumstances. In its _right_ sense trapping is
+a delightful, healthful, and legitimate sport, and we commend it
+to all our boy-readers.
+
+It shall be the object of the author to produce a thoroughly _practical_
+volume, presenting as far as possible such examples of the trap
+kind as any boy, with a moderate degree of ingenuity, could easily
+construct, and furthermore to illustrate each variety with the
+utmost plainness, supplemented with the most detailed description.
+
+With the exception of all "clap-trap," our volume will embrace
+nearly every known example of the various devices used for the
+capture of Bird, Beast, or Fowl, in all countries, simplifying such
+as are impracticable on account of their complicated structure,
+and modifying others to the peculiar adaptation of the American
+Trapper.
+
+Devices, which inflict cruelty and prolonged suffering, shall,
+as far as possible, be excluded, as this is not a necessary
+qualification in any trap, and should be guarded against wherever
+possible. Following out the suggestion conveyed under the
+[Page 5]
+title of "The Trapper," we shall present full and ample directions
+for baiting traps, selections of ground for setting, and other
+hints concerning the trapping of all our principal game and wild
+animals, valuable either as food or for their fur. In short, our
+book shall form a complete trapper's guide, embracing all necessary
+information on the subject, anticipating every want, and furnishing
+the most complete and fully illustrated volume on this subject
+ever presented to the public. In vain did the author of this work,
+in his younger days, search the book stores and libraries in the
+hopes of finding such a book, and many are the traps and snares
+which necessity forced him to invent and construct for himself, for
+want of just such a volume. Several of these original inventions
+will appear in the present work for the first time in book form,
+and the author can vouch for their excellence, and he might almost
+say, their infallibility, for in their perfect state he has never
+yet found them to "miss" in a single instance.
+
+As the writer's mind wanders back to his boyish days, there is
+one autumn in particular which shines out above all the rest; and
+that was when his traps were first set and were the chief source
+of his enjoyment. The adventurous excitement which sped him on in
+those daily tramps through the woods, and the buoyant, exhilarating
+effect of the exercise can be realized only by those who have had the
+same experience. The hope of success, the fears of disappointment,
+the continual suspense and wonder which fill the mind of the young
+trapper, all combine to invest this sport with a charm known to no
+other. Trapping does not consist merely in the manufacture and setting
+of the various traps. The study of the habits and peculiarities of
+the different game--here becomes a matter of great importance;
+and the study of natural history under these circumstances affords
+a continual source of pleasure and profit.
+
+Among the most useful, although the most cruel, of inventions used
+by the professional trapper are the steel traps; so much so that
+the author would gladly omit them. But as they are of such unfailing
+[Page 6]
+action, of such universal efficacy, and in many cases are the only
+ones that can be used, any book on trapping would certainly be
+incomplete without them. The scope of our volume not only embraces
+the arts of trapping and trap-making, but extends further into the
+subject of the wild life of a trapping campaign,--containing full
+directions for building log cabins, and shanties; boats and canoes;
+hints on food and cooking utensils; also full directions for the
+curing and tanning of fur skins,--in short, a complete repository of
+all useful information pertaining to the life and wants of a
+professional trapper.
+
+In the preparation of the work no pains have been spared to insure
+clearness in general directions, and every point which would be
+likely to puzzle the reader has been specially covered by separate
+illustration. In this particular it stands unique in the list of
+boys' books. Every difficulty has been anticipated, and in every
+instance the illustrations will be found thoroughly comprehensive
+and complete. That the care and thoroughness which has been displayed
+throughout the work, and to which its pages will bear witness,
+may meet with the appreciation and enthusiastic approval of every
+boy-reader throughout the land, is the most earnest hope of
+
+THE AUTHOR.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page iii]
+[Illustration: CONTENTS]
+
+BOOK I.
+
+TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.
+
+Introduction.--THE DEAD FALL.--Honey as Bait for Bears.--THE GUN
+TRAP.--Peculiar Habits of the Puma.--"Baiting" for the Puma.--Caution
+required in Setting the Gun Trap.--Several Guns used.--Different
+Modes of Setting.--Various animals to which the Gun Trap is
+adapted.--THE BOW TRAP.--Vane and Barb for Arrows.--Best Wood for
+Bow.--A Second Example of Bow Trap.--Arrows Barbed and Poisoned.--THE
+DOWN FALL; or Hippopotamus Trap.--The terrible Harpoon used by
+the African Trapper.--Different Modes of Setting the Down
+Fall.--Modification of the Down Fall for small animals.--THE BEAR
+TRAP.--Various Methods of Setting.--Honey as Bait for Bear.--Bait
+for Puma.--THE PITFALL.--Use of the Trap in Asia as a means of
+defence against the Tiger.--Disposition of the Bait.--Wonderful
+agility of the Puma.--Niceties required in the construction of
+the Pitfall.--THE LOG COOP TRAP.--Various animals for which it
+is adapted.--Different Modes of Setting.--THE CORRALL OR HOPO of
+Africa.--Its Construction and Appalling Effects.--THE NET TRAP.--Its
+Use in the Capture of the Lion and the Tiger.--American animals to
+which it may be adapted.--Two Methods of Setting.--BIRD LIME.--Its
+Use for the Capture of the Lion and Tiger.
+
+[Page iv]
+BOOK II.
+
+SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS.
+
+General Remarks.--Requisite Materials for Snaring.--THE QUAIL
+SNARE.--"Sucker Wire" Nooses.--Six Quail caught at a time.--HOOP
+NOOSES.--HORSE HAIR NOOSES.--HEDGE NOOSES.--Peculiarities of the
+Grouse.--Selection of Ground.--THE TRIANGLE TREE SNARE.--A Hawk
+captured by the device.--The Wire Noose, as arranged for the capture
+of the Woodchuck, Muskrat, and House Rat.--THE TWITCH-UP.--Selection
+of Ground for Setting.--Various Modes of Constructing the Traps.--THE
+POACHERS' SNARE.--Its portability.--THE PORTABLE SNARE.--Its Peculiar
+Advantages.--The "Simplest" Snare.--The valuable principle on which
+it is Constructed.--Its Portability.--Various Adaptations of the
+Principle.--THE QUAIL SNARE.--Its ample capabilities of
+Capture.--Peculiarities of the Quail.--Successful Baits.--THE BOX
+SNARE.--Modification in a very small scale.--THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.--The
+Animals for which it is Adapted.--GROUND SNARES.--THE OLD-FASHIONED
+SPINGLE.--THE IMPROVED SPINGLE.--Objections to Ground Snares.--THE
+FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.--THE PLATFORM SNARE.
+
+BOOK III.
+
+TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.
+
+THE SIEVE TRAP.--THE BRICK TRAP.--THE COOP TRAP--Improved Method
+of Setting.--Defects of the old style.--THE BAT FOWLING NET.--Its
+Use in England.--How the Dark Lantern is Used by Bird Catchers.--THE
+CLAP NET.--Its Extensive Use in Foreign Countries.--Decoy Birds.--The
+"Bird Whistle" used in place of decoy.--Wonderful Skill attained in
+the Use of the Bird Whistle.--Selection of Trapping Ground.--THE
+BIRD WHISTLE Described.--Its Use and Marvelous Capabilities.--THE
+WILD GOOSE TRAP.--Its Extensive Use in the Northern Cold Regions
+for the Capture of the Goose and Ptarmigan.--Tame Goose Used as
+Decoys.--Gravel as Bait.--THE TRAP CAGE.--A Favorite Trap among
+Bird Catchers.--Call Birds.--THE SPRING NET TRAP.--Rubber Elastic
+as Spring Power.--A SIMPLER NET TRAP.--Common Faults in many Bird
+Traps.--Complicated Construction as Unnecessary Feature.--Requisites
+of a good Bird Trap.--Hints on Simple Mechanism.--Different Modes
+of Constructing Hinge.--Hoop Iron Used as Spring Power.--Manner
+of Tempering Spring.--THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.--A Second Method of
+Constructing Platform.--THE BOX OWL TRAP.--Ventilation a Desirable
+Feature in all Box Traps.--Tin Catch for Securing Cover in
+Place.--Peculiar Mode of Baiting for Birds.--Modification of
+Perch.--Baiting for the Owl.--Locality for Setting.--The Owl in
+Captivity.--Its Food.--Hints on the Care of the Bird.--THE BOX
+BIRD TRAP.--Cigar Box Used as a Trap.--THE PENDANT BOX
+TRAP.--Ventilation.--Simple Mechanism.--Care in Construction of
+Bearings.--THE HAWK TRAP.--A "Yankee" Invention.--Stiff-Pointed
+Wires Effectually Use in the Capture of the Hawk.--Owl also Captured
+by the Same Device.--THE WILD DUCK NET.--Its Use in Chesapeake
+Bay.--Manner of Constructing the Net.--Decoy Ducks.--Bait for the
+Ducks.--THE HOOK TRAP.--Its cruel Mode of Capture.--Peculiar Bait
+for Ducks.--THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.--Its Successful Use in the Capture
+of the Crow.--Shrewdness of the Crow.--Strange antics of a Crow when
+Captured in the Trap.--Bird Lime the Secret of its Success.--Wonderful
+Tenacity of the Cap.--Different Modes of Setting.--BIRD LIME
+Described.--Its astonishing "Sticky" Qualities.--The Bird Lime
+of the Trade.--Various "Home-Made" Recipes.--Manner of Using Bird
+Lime.--Limed Twigs.--The Owl Used as a Decoy in connection with
+Bird Lime.--Bird Lime used in the Capture of the Humming Bird.--A
+Flower Converted into a Trap.--Masticated Wheat as Bird Lime.--Its
+Ready Removal from the Feathers.--Delicate Organization of the
+Humming Bird.--Killed by Fright.--Use of its Plumage.--Snares for the
+Humming Bird.--Blow Guns Successfully Used for its Capture.--Killed
+by Concussion.--Disabled by a Stream of Water.
+
+[Page v]
+BOOK IV.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.
+
+THE COMMON BOX TRAP.--Two Modes of Setting.--Animals for which it
+is Adapted.--A Modification of the Trap.--ANOTHER BOX TRAP.--THE
+FIGURE FOUR TRAP.--Its Advantages.--THE DOUBLE ENDER.--A Favorite
+Trap in New England.--Simplicity of Construction.--The Rabbit's
+Fondness for Salt.--Its Use as a Bait.--THE SELF SETTING TRAP.--Animals
+for which it is adapted.--THE DEAD FALL.--Various Methods of
+Construction.--Animals for which it is usually Set.--Remarkable
+Cunning of some Animals.--The Precautions which it Necessitates.--Bait
+for the Muskrat.--Various Baits for the Mink.--Skunk Baits.--A Fox
+Entrapped by a Dead Fall.--Slight Modification in the Arrangement
+of Pieces.--Live Duck used as Bait.--Another Arrangement for the
+Dead Fall.--Trap Sprung by the Foot of the Animal.--THE FIGURE FOUR
+TRAP.--Applied to the Dead Fall.--THE GAROTTE.--Its Singular Mode
+of Capture.--Its Common Victims.--THE BOW TRAP.--An oddity of the
+Trap Kind.--Its Singular mechanism.--THE MOLE TRAP.--A Much-needed
+Contrivance.--Subterranean Mode of Setting.--Its Unfailing Success.--A
+FISH TRAP.--A Section of Stove Pipe used as a Trap.--Its Various
+Victims.--Adjustment of the Bait.--Curious Mode of Capture.
+
+BOOK V.
+
+HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.
+
+A Chapter Dedicated to Pestered Housekeepers.--The Domestic Cat
+as a Household Trap.--The Rat.--Its Proverbial Shrewdness and
+Cunning.--THE BARREL TRAP.--Its unlimited Capabilities of Capture--Other
+Advantages.--"Baiting" for Rats.--A Second Form of Barrel Trap.--Various
+other Devices adapted to the capture of the Rat.--The Steel Trap.--Hints
+on Setting.--Necessary Precautions.--THE BOX DEAD FALL.--THE BOARD
+FLAP.--THE BOX PIT FALL.--Animals for which it may be set.--Its
+Extensive Capabilities of Capture.--Its Self-Setting Qualities.--The
+principle Utilized for the Capture of the Muskrat.--THE CAGE TRAP.--THE
+JAR TRAP.--A Preserve Jar Converted into a Mouse Trap.--Its Complete
+Success.--BOWL TRAPS.--Two Methods.--FLY PAPER.--Recipe for Making.--FLY
+TRAP.
+
+BOOK VI.
+
+STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.
+
+General Remarks.--Advantages of the Steel Trap.--Its extensive use in
+the business of Trapping.--Hints on the Selection of Traps.--REQUISITES
+OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.--The Newhouse Trap.--Various sizes.--Rat
+Trap.--Muskrat Trap.--Mink Trap.--Fox Trap.--Otter Trap.--Beaver
+Trap.--"Great Bear Tamer."--SSmall Bear Trap.--HINTS ON BAITING
+THE STEEL TRAP.--The Staked Pen.--Old Method of Baiting.--Its
+Objections.--Advantages of the New Method.--THE SPRING POLE.--Its
+Service to the Trapper.--THE SLIDING POLE.--Advantages of its Use
+in the Capture of Aquatic Animals.--THE CLOG.--Objections against
+Securing the Steel Trap to a Stake.--Method of Attaching the Clog.--THE
+GRAPPLING IRON.--THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING.--Best condition for Furs.--THE
+ART OF TRAPPING.--Antiquity of the Sport.--Necessary Qualifications
+for Successful Trapping.--The Study of Natural History a source
+of pleasure and profit.--The Professional Trapper's most serious
+[Page vi]
+Obstacles.--Marvellous Cunning of many Animals.--Necessity of the
+Study of their Habits.--"Practical Natural History."--Trapping Without
+Bait.--Run-ways or By-paths.--How Utilized by the Trapper.--How
+Detected.--Favorable Localities for the Setting of the Steel
+Trap.--Natural Advantages.--Entrapping animals through their Sense
+of Smell.--Remarkable Power of Scent Baits.--Their great value
+in the Capture of the Beaver.--Caution in Handling the Steel
+Trap.--Effect of the Touch of the Hand.--Buckskin Gloves a Necessary
+Requisite.--MEDICINES, OR SCENT BAITS.--Their Great Importance in the
+Art of Trapping.--CASTOREUM OR BARKSTONE.--How Obtained.--Castoreum
+Composition.--Recipe for Making.--How Used.--MUSK--ASSAFOETIDA.--OIL
+OF RHODIUM.--FISH OIL.--Its General Use in the Capture of Aquatic
+Animals.--Valuable Recipe for its Manufacture.--OIL OF SKUNK.--How
+Obtained.--How Eradicated from Hands or Clothing.--OIL OF AMBER.--OIL
+OF AMBERGRIS.--OIL OF ANISE.--Its General Use as a "Universal
+Medicine."--SWEET FENNEL.--CUMMIN--FENUGREEK--LAVENDER--COMPOUND
+MEDICINE--THE TRAIL--Its Object and Value.--Various Modes of
+Making.--HOW TO TRAP.--General Remarks.--THE FOX.--Its Scientific
+Classification.--The Various American Species.--The Red Fox.--The
+Cross Fox.--Why so Named.--The Black or Silver Fox.--The Great
+Value of its Fur.--The Prairie Fox.--The Kit or Swift Fox.--The
+Gray Fox.--Similarity in the General Characteristics of the Various
+Species.--Food of the Fox.--Its Home.--Its consummate Craft.--Instances
+of its Cunning.--Baffling the Hounds.--How to Trap the Fox.--Preparation
+of the Trap.--Adverse Effect of Human Scent.--Necessity of handling Trap
+with Gloves.--The "Bed."--"Baiting" the Bed Necessary.--Precautions in
+Setting the Trap.--The "Tricks of the Trapper" Illustrated.--How to
+Proceed in case of Non-Success.--The Scent-Baits Utilized.--Various
+Modes of Setting the Trap.--The Baits Commonly Used.--The Dead Fall
+as a Means of Capture.--Common Mode of Skinning the Fox.--Directions
+for Stretching Skin.--THE WOLF.--The Various Species.--Fierce
+Characteristics of the Wolf.--Its Terrible Inroads among Herds and
+Flocks.--The Gray Wolf.--The Coyote or Common Prairie Wolf.--The
+Texan Wolf.--Home of the Wolf.--Number of Young.--Cunning of the
+Wolf.--Caution Required in Trapping.--How to Trap the Wolf.--Preparation
+of Trap.--Various Ways of Setting the Trap.--Use of the Trail and
+Scent Baits.--"Playing Possum."--The Dead Fall and "Twitch-up"
+as Wolf Traps.--Directions for Skinning the Wolf and Stretching
+the Pelt.--THE PUMA.--Its Scientific Classification.--Its Life
+and Habits.--Its Wonderful Agility.--Its Skill as an Angler.--Its
+Stealth.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Puma.--The Gun
+Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Dead Fall.--Trap for Taking the Animal
+Alive.--Log Coop Trap.--The Pit Fall.--Bait for the Puma.--The Steel
+Trap.--Common Mode of Setting.--Selection of Locality for Trapping.--How
+to Skin the Puma.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE CANADA
+LYNX.--Description of the Animal.--Its Life and Habits.--Its Food.--Its
+Peculiar Appearance when Running.--Easily Killed.--The Dead Fall as
+a Lynx Trap.--Peculiar Manner of Construction for the Purpose.--The
+Gun Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Twitch-up.--Young of the Lynx.--Value
+of its Fur.--The Steel Trap.--Various Methods of Setting.--Directions
+for Skinning the Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE WILD CAT.--Its
+Resemblance to the Domestic Species.--Its Strange Appetite.--Its
+Home.--Number of Young.--Haunts of the Wild Cat.--Its Nocturnal
+Marauding expeditions.--Its Lack of Cunning.--How to Trap the Wild
+Cat.--An Entire Colony Captured.--Ferocity of the Wild Cat.--The
+Twitch-up.--Its Common Use in the Capture of the Wild Cat.--Other
+Successful Traps.--Various Baits for the Wild Cat.--Directions
+for Skinning the Animal, and Stretching the Pelt.--THE BEAR.--The
+Various American Species.--The Grizzly.--Its Enormous Size and
+Power.--Its Terrible Fury.--Description of the Animal.--Food of the
+Grizzly.--The Black Bear or Musquaw.--Its General Description.--Bear
+Hunting.--Danger of the Sport.--Food of the Bear.--Its Fondness for
+Pigs.--Honey Its Special Delight.--The Cubs.--The Flesh of the
+Bear as Food.--"Bears' Grease."--Hibernation of the Bear.--Traps
+for the Bear.--The Dead
+[Page vii]
+Fall.--Pit-fall.--Giant Coop.--Gun Trap.--The Steel Trap.--The
+Clog and Grappling-Iron.--Their Advantages.--How to Trap the
+Bear.--Various Methods of Adjusting Traps.--Natural Advantages.--Honey
+as Bait.--Other Baits.--Scent Baits.--Skinning the Bear.--Directions
+for Stretching the Pelt.--THE RACCOON.--Classification--Cunning
+and Stealth of the Animal.--Characteristic Features.--The "Coon
+Chase."--How the Raccoon is Hunted.--The "Tree'd Coon."--Varied
+Accomplishments of the Raccoon.--Its Home and Family.--The "Coon"
+as a Pet.--Its Cunning Ways.--Its Extensive Bill of Fare.--Life and
+Habits of the Raccoon.--Remarkable Imprint of its Paw.--Season for
+Trapping the Coon.--How to Trap the Coon.--Various Modes of Setting
+the Trap.--Use of the "medicines" or "Scent Baits."--Other Traps for
+the Animal.--Directions for Removing the Skin, and Stretching the
+Pelt.--THE BADGER.--Its Peculiar Markings.--Use of the Hair.--Nest of
+the Badger.--Number of Young.--Food of the Animal.--Its Remarkable
+Fondness for Honey.--Its Cunning.--Remarkable Instincts.--Its
+Shrewdness.--How to Trap the Badger.--Various Baits.--Use of
+"Medicine."--Capture of the Animal by Flooding its Burrow.--How
+to Skin the Badger.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE
+BEAVER.--Description of the Animal.--Its Nature and Habits.--The
+Beaver Village.--The "Lodges," or Beaver Houses.--Remarkable
+Construction of the Huts.--The Dam of the Beaver.--Wonderful Skill
+shown in its Construction.--Nocturnal Habits of the Beaver.--Remarkable
+Engineering Instincts of the Animal.--How the Beaver Cuts Timber.--How
+the Dam is Constructed.--The Formation of "Reefs."--The Tail of
+the Beaver as a Means of Transportation.--Subterranean Passage
+to the Huts.--How Beavers are Hunted.--Young of the Beaver.--How
+to Trap the Beaver.--The Necessary Precautions.--Castoreum or Bark
+Stone.--Its Great Value in the Capture of the Beaver.--Various
+Methods of Setting the Trap.--How to Apply the Castoreum.--Use of
+the Sliding Pole.--Food of the Beaver.--Directions for Skinning the
+Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE MUSK-RAT.--General Description
+of the Animal.--Its Beaver-like Huts.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its
+Food.--The Flesh of the Musk-rat as an Article of Diet.--Description
+of the Hut.--Extensive Family of the Musk-Rat.--Its Home.--How the
+Musk-Rat swims beneath Unbroken Ice.--How it is Killed by being
+Driven Away from its Breath.--Spearing the Musk-Rat.--Construction
+of the Spear.--How to Trap the Musk-Rat.--Use of the Sliding
+Pole.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The Spring Pole.--Scent
+Baits.--Various Devices for Capturing the Musk-Rat.--The
+Barrel-Trap.--Remarkable Success of the Trap.--The Trail.--Skinning
+the Musk-Rat.--How to Stretch the Pelt.--THE OTTER.--Description
+of the Animal.--Beauty of its Fur.--How the "Otter Fur" of Fashion
+is Prepared.--Food of the Otter.--Its Natural Endowments for
+Swimming.--Habitation of the Otter.--Its Nest and Young.--The Track
+or "Seal" of the animal.--How the Otter is Hunted.--Its Fierceness
+when Attacked.--The Otter as a Pet.--Fishing for its Master.--The
+Otter "Slide."--How Utilized by the Trapper.--Playfulness of the
+Otter.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The
+Sliding Pole.--The Spring Pole.--Scent Baits.--How Applied.--Necessary
+Precautions.--How to Skin the Otter.--Directions for Stretching the
+Pelt.--THE MINK.--Its Form and Color.--Value of the Fur.--Habits
+of the Animal.--Its Diet.--Its Perpetual Greed.--Ease with which it
+may be Trapped.--Habitation of the Mink.--Its Nest and Young.--How
+to Trap the Mink.--Various Methods of Setting the Trap.--Baits.--The
+Sliding Pole.--"Medicine."--The Runways of the Mink.--How Utilized
+in Trapping.--The Trail.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the
+Mink.--How to Skin the Animal.--THE PINE MARTEN.--Description of
+the Animal.--Its Natural Characteristics.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its
+Wonderful Stealth and Activity.--Its "Bill of Fare."--Its Strange mode
+of Seizing Prey.--The Marten as a Pet.--Its Agreeable Odor.--Various
+Traps Used in the Capture of the Marten.--Baits for the Marten.--The
+Steel Trap.--Several Modes of Setting.--Directions for Skinning
+the Animal.--THE FISHER.--Its Form and Color.--Its Habitation and
+Young.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Methods.--The Spring
+Pole.--Baits for the Fisher.--Principal Devices Used in its
+Capture.--The Skin.--How
+[Page viii]
+Removed and Stretched.--THE SKUNK.--Its Fetid Stench.--Origin of
+the Odor.--Its Effect on Man and Beast.--"Premonitory Symptoms"
+of Attack.--Acrid Qualities of the Secretion.--Its Terrible Effect
+on the Eyes.--Interesting Adventure with a Skunk.--"Appearances are
+often Deceitful."--The Skunk as a Pet.--Color of the Animal.--Habits
+of the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Young.--"Alaska Sable."--How to
+Trap the Skunk.--Various Traps Used.--The Steel Trap.--Different
+Modes of Setting.--Baits.--The Dead Fall.--Modifications in its
+Construction.--The Twitch-up.--Its Peculiar Advantages for the
+Capture of the Skunk.--Chloride of Lime as Antidote.--Method of
+Eradicating the Odor from the Clothing.--Directions for Removing and
+Stretching the Skin.--THE WOLVERINE.--Its Desperate Fierceness and
+voracity.--Its General Characteristics.--Its Form and Color.--Food
+of the Wolverine.--Its Trap-Robbing Propensities.--How to Trap the
+Wolverine.--Baits.--Use of the "Medicine."--The Gun Trap and Dead
+Fall.--The Steel Trap.--Various Modes of Setting.--Home and Young
+of the Animal.--How the Skin should be Removed and Stretched.--THE
+OPOSSUM.--Description of the Animal.--Its Nature and Habits.--Its
+Home.--Remarkable Mode of Carrying its Young.--Nocturnal Habits of
+the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Especial Fondness for Persimmons.--Its
+Remarkable Tenacity as a Climber.--"Playing Possum."--How the Opossum
+is Hunted.--How Trapped.--Various Devices Used in its Capture.--Scent
+Baits.--How the Skin is Removed and Stretched.--THE RABBIT.--Wide-spread
+Distribution of the Various Species.--Their Remarkable Powers of
+Speed.--Nest of the Rabbit.--Its Prolific Offspring.--Food of the
+Rabbit.--Its Enemies.--Various Devices Used in Trapping the
+Animal.--Necessary Precautions in Skinning the Rabbit.--THE
+WOODCHUCK.--Description of the Animal.--Its Habits.--Its Burrows.--Its
+Food.--Toughness of the Skin.--Its Use.--Nest of the Animal.--The
+Woodchuck as Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--The Steel Trap.--The
+Spring Pole.--The Twitch-up.--How the Woodchuck is "Drowned Out."--The
+Turtle as a Ferret.--Smoking the Burrows.--Directions for Skinning
+the Animal.--THE GOPHER.--Its Burrows.--Its Food.--Remarkable Cheek
+Pouches of the Animal.--Their Use.--How to Trap the Animal.--How
+the Skin is Removed.--THE MOLE.--Its Varied Accomplishments.--Its
+Remarkable Dwellings.--Complicated Structure of the Habitation.--The
+Fury and Voracity of the Mole.--Peculiarities of Its Fur.--A Waistcoat
+of Mole Skins.--Odor of the Mole.--Mole Traps.--Various Species of the
+Mole.--The Mole of the Cape of Good Hope.--Marvellous Beauty of Its
+Fur.--SQUIRRELS.--Their General Peculiarities of Form and Habit.--Their
+Food.--Their Provident Instincts.--"Nutting" in Midwinter.--The
+Nest of the Squirrel.--Burrowing Squirrels.--The Various American
+Species.--The Grey Squirrel.--The Chipmunk.--The Chickaree.--The
+Flying Squirrel, &c.--How Squirrels are Trapped.--Various Traps
+Used in their Capture.--Removal of Skin.--THE DEER.--Difficulty
+of Hunting the Animal in Dry Seasons.--Various American Species
+of the Deer.--How the Deer is Trapped.--Peculiar Construction of
+the Trap.--Scent Bait for the Deer.--Various Methods of Setting
+the Trap.--Violence of the Deer when Trapped.--The Clog.--Dead
+Falls.--Food of the Deer.--Deer "Yards."--Natural Enemies of the
+Deer.--How the Deer is Hunted.--"Still Hunting."--The Deer's Acute
+Sense of Smell.--How to Detect the Direction of the Wind.--Natural
+Habits of the Deer.--"Night Hunting."--Luminosity of the Eyes of the
+Deer at Night.--Hunting the deer with dogs.--"Deer Licks."--How Salt
+is used in Hunting the Deer.--Hunting from a Scaffolding.--Peculiar
+Sight of the Deer.--"Salt Licks" used in Night Hunting.--Head
+Lantern.--How made.--How used.--The fiery Eyes of the Deer.--"Fox
+Fire" or Phosphorescent wood.--How used by the Hunter.--Seasons
+for Deer Hunting.--How to skin the Deer.--THE MOOSE.--Description
+of the animal.--Immense size of its Horns.--Moose yards.--Hunted
+on Snow shoes.--The dangers of Moose Hunting.--Exquisite sense of
+Smell.--How the Moose is Trapped.--Directions for removing the
+Skin of the Animal.--ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.--Description of the
+Animal.--Its enormous Horns.--Habits of the creature.--Its flesh as
+Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--THE BUFFALO.--Its Habits.--Its
+Food.--Buffalo-grass.--How the Animal is Hunted and Trapped.--Buffalo
+[Page ix]
+flesh as Food.--Buffalo skins.--THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE.--Description
+of the Animal.--Peculiarity of Horn.--How the creature is Hunted
+and Destroyed by the Indians.--Remarkable sense of Smell of the
+Animal.--Its Beauty and grace.--Flesh of the Antelope a Food.--How
+the Animal is Trapped.--Various Traps used in their Capture.--The
+Dead-fall.--Pit-fall.--How to remove the Hide of the Animal.--SHOOTING
+AND POISONING.--"Shot furs."--"Poisoned furs."--"Trapped furs."--Their
+relative Value in the Fur Market.--Effect of grazing shot on
+fur.--Effect of Poison on Fur.--Remarks on the use of
+Poison.--Strychnine.--Poisoning Wolves.--Recipe for mixing the
+Poison.--Poisoning the Bear.--How the Dose is Prepared.
+
+BOOK VII.
+
+CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS.
+
+Introductory Remarks.--"Amateur Trapping."--PLAN OF CAMPAIGN.--Selection
+of Trapping-ground.--Advantages of a Watered District.--Labor of
+transportation lightened by Boating.--Lakes, Ponds and Streams.--The
+Adirondacks and Alleghanies.--Remarks on the "Home Shanty."--Selection
+of Site for building.--Value of a good Axe.--Remarks on the Bark
+Shanty.--Its value in case of Storms.--Wise fore-sight.--Remarks on
+the Indian Birch-bark Canoe.--Dug-out and Bateau.--Commencement of
+Trapping Season.--Advantages of preliminary preparation.--Extensive
+route of the Professional Trapper.--Sixty pounds of Personal
+Luggage.--How the traps and provisions are distributed among the
+Trapping lines.--Use of the "Home Shanty."--"Keeping Shanty."--Necessity
+of its being Guarded.--Wolves and Bears as thieves.--Steel Traps
+considered.--Number used in a Professional Campaign.--Number for
+an Amateur Campaign.--Their Probable Cost.--The average size of
+Trap.--Dead-falls, Twitchups, &c., considered.--Requisite Tools for
+a Campaign.--A "House-wife" a valuable necessity.--"Cleanliness next
+to Godliness."--The Trappers' Light.--Comparative value of Lanterns
+and Candles.--The Trappers' Personal outfit.--The jack-knife.--The
+Pocket-Compass.--Necessity of preparing for Emergencies.--Shot
+guns and Rifles.--Both combined in the same weapon.--Oil for Fire
+Arms.--Fat of the Grouse Used on Fire Arms.--Fishing tackle.--The
+Trappers' portable stove.--The Stove versus The Open Fire.--The
+Trapper's Clothing.--The Material and Color.--Boots.--High-topped
+Boots.--Short Boots.--Their Relative Qualities.--Waterproof Boot
+Dressing.--Recipe.--The Trapping Season.--Hints on Trapping-lines.--The
+"Wheel" plan.--Mode of following the lines.--"Trap Robbers" or
+"Poachers."--How to guard against them.--Hiding furs.--How to store
+Traps from Season to Season.--Gnats and Mosquitoes.--The "Smudge."--How
+made.--FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS.--"Roughing it."--"A chance Chip
+for a Frying Pan."--A "happy medium" between two extremes.--Cosy
+and Comfortable living on a Campaign.--Portable Food.--Combined
+Nutriment and lightness in weight to be desired.--The Trappers'
+Culinary Outfit.--Indian meal as Food.--The Trappers' "Staff of
+Life."--Wheat flour.--Salt Pork.--Seasoning.--Pork Fritters a
+luxury.--Cooking Utensils.--The "Telescope" drinking cup.--Recipe
+for making Pork Fritters.--"Chop Sticks" à la "Chinee."--A Flat
+Chip as a Plate.--Boiled Mush.--Old "Stand by."--Recipe.--Fried
+Mush.--Indian meal Cakes.--Recipe.--Johnny Cake.--Recipe.--Hoe
+Cakes.--Recipe.--Fresh fish.--How to Cook fish in a most Delicious
+manner.--Prof. Blot, and Delmonico, out-done.--The "NE PLUS ULTRA" of
+delicacies.--All the sweet Juices of the Fish preserved.--Disadvantages
+of the ordinary method of cooking.--Partridge, Duck, Quail, Cooked
+deliciously.--Roasting unrivalled!--Hints on Broiling.--An extemporized
+Spider or Toaster.--Roasting on a spit.--Venison, Bear, and Moose Meat
+broiled in the best style.--Venison cutlets.--The Camp fire.--Usual mode
+[Page x]
+of building Fire.--How the Kettle is suspended.--"Luxuries"
+considered.--The Knapsack a desirable Acquisition.--Matches.--The Bottle
+Match-safe.--Waterproof Matches.--How made.--Lucifer Matches.--Recipe
+for Waterproof preparation.--The Pocket Sun Glass.--A necessary adjunct
+to a Trapper's Outfit.--Its Advantages in case of Emergency.--"Touch
+wood" or "Punk Tinder," valuable in lighting fires.--How to light Fires
+without matches or Sun glass.--How to light a fire without Matches,
+Sun Glass, Powder, or Percussion Caps.--A last Resort.--Matches best
+in the long run.--The Portable Camp Stove described.--Its accompanying
+Furniture.--The Combination Camp-knife.--Hint on Provisions.--Potatoes
+as food.--Beans.--"Self raising" Wheat flour.--Light Bread, Biscuit
+and Pancakes in Camp.--Various accessories.--Olive Oil for purpose
+of Frying.--Pork.--Indian meal.--Crackers.--Wheaten Grits.--Rice and
+Oatmeal.--Tea and Coffee.--Soups.--Liebig's Extract of Beef.--Canned
+Vegetables.--Lemonade.--Waterproof bags for provisions.--Painted
+bags.--Caution!--Waterproof preparation.--Air-tight jars for
+Butter.--Knapsack or Shoulder Basket.--Venison as food.--To preserve
+the overplus of meat.--"Jerked Venison" Recipe and Process.--Moose
+and Bear meat and Fish, similarly prepared.--How to protect provisions
+from Wolves.--The Moufflon and Prong-horn as food.--"Small game,"
+Squirrels, Rabbits, and Woodchucks.--"Skunk Meat" as a delicacy.--The
+Buffalo as food.--Grouse, the universal Food of Trappers and
+Hunters.--Various species of Grouse.--The Sage Cock.--The
+Ptarmigan.--How they are trapped by the Indians in the Hudson's
+Bay Country.--Waterfowl.--Sea and Inland Ducks.--Various species of
+Duck.--Mallard.--Muscovy.--Wigeon.--Merganser.--Canvass Back.--Teal,
+&c.--Wild Geese.--Fish as food.--Angling and Spearing.--Salmon
+Spearing in the North.--Description of the Salmon Spear used by
+the Indians.--Salmon Spearing at night.--Requisites of a good
+Spearsman.--Fishing through the Ice.--Cow's udder and Hogs liver as
+Bait.--Other Baits.--Assafoetida and Sweet Cicely as fish Baits.--Trout
+fishing with Tip-up's.--Pickerel fishing in Winter.--Pickerel Spearing
+through the Ice.--The Box Hut.--The "Fish Lantern" or Fish Trap.--Fish
+Attracted by light.--Light as Bait.--How the Fish Lantern is made and
+used.--THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.--Introductory remarks.--The Perils of
+a Life in the Wilderness.--A Shelter of some form a Necessity.--The
+Log Shanty.--Full directions for building.--Ingenious manner of
+constructing roof.--How the Chimney is built.--Spacious interior of
+the Shanty.--THE BARK SHANTY.--A Temporary structure.--Full directions
+for its construction.--Selection of building site.--TENTS.--Advantages
+of their use.--Various kinds of Tents.--The House Tent.--The Fly
+Tent.--The Shelter Tent.--Directions for making the Tent.--Tent
+Cloth.--How to render tents Water and Fire-resistant.--Valuable
+recipe.--BEDS AND BEDDING.--Perfect rest and comfort to the tired
+Trapper.--A portable Spring bed for the woods.--A Hammock bed.--Bed
+Clothes.--The Canton Flannel Bag.--Hammocks.--TENT CARPETING.--Spruce
+and Hemlock boughs as bedding.--How to cover the ground evenly.--The
+Rubber Blanket.
+
+BOOK VIII.
+
+THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.
+
+Warning to the Novice.--Winged Cannibals of the Woods.--INSECT
+OINTMENTS.--Mosquitoes and Gnats.--Their aversion to the scent
+of Pennyroyal.--Pennyroyal Ointment.--Recipe.--Mutton tallow
+Ointment.--Tar and Sweet Oil Liniment.--Recipe.--Its effect on the
+Complexion.--Invasions of Insects by night.--Their pertinacity and
+severity.--The experience of our Adirondack guide.--The bloodthirsty
+propensities of the Mosquito admirably depicted.--The "Smudge" Smoke
+versus Insect Bites.--"Punkeys" and "Midgets."--Their terrible
+voracity.--Painful effects of their Bites.--Pennyroyal an effective
+Antidote.--Depraved
+[Page xi]
+appetite of the mosquito.--A Warning to the Intemperate.--Use and abuse
+of Alcohol.--A Popular error corrected.--A substitute for Whiskey and
+Brandy.--Red Pepper Tea.--Its great value as a remedy in Illness.--The
+Mosquitoes' favorite Victim.--Result of the bite of the insect.--The
+Mosquito Head-Net.--Directions for making the Net.--Netting attachment
+for the Hat.--Portable Sun Shade or Hat brim.--Netting attachment
+for the Hat brim.--BOAT BUILDING.--A Boat of some kind a necessity
+to the Trapper.--The "Dug-Out" or Log-Canoe.--Requisite Tools for
+its Manufacture.--Selection of the Log.--Directions for making the
+boat.--Remarkable thinness to which they may be reduced.--Lightness
+of the boat.--How to gauge the thickness.--How to stop leaks.--THE
+INDIAN OR BIRCH BARK CANOE.--The Indian as a Canoe-maker.--His
+remarkable skill.--Perfection of the Indian made Canoe.--Description
+of the Canoe.--Capacity of the various sizes.--How to construct a
+Bark Canoe.--Selection of Bark.--How to prevent Leaks.--Material
+used by the Indians in sewing the Bark.--Advantages of the Birch
+Bark Canoe.--Basswood, Hemlock, and Spruce Bark Canoes.--A LIGHT
+HOME-MADE BOAT.--Selection of Boards.--Directions for making the
+Boat.--Caulking the seams.--Value of Pitch for waterproofing
+purposes.--How it should be applied.--THE SCOW.--How to construct the
+ordinary Flat-bottomed Boat.--The Mud-stick.--SNOW SHOES.--A necessity
+for winter travel.--The "Snow Shoe Race."--The mysteries of a Snow
+Shoe.--"Taming the Snow Shoe."--How to make the Snow Shoe.--Complicated
+Net-work.--Two methods of attaching the Net-work.--How the Snow
+Shoe is worn.--THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.--Its value to the
+Trapper.--Winter Coasting.--Great sport with the Toboggan.--How to
+make a Toboggan.--Selection of Boards.--How the Sledge is used.--CURING
+SKINS.--Importance of Curing Skins properly.--Valuable hints on Skinning
+Animals.--How to dry Skins.--How to dress Skins for Market.--Astringent
+preparations.--Recipe.--STRETCHERS.--How skins are stretched.--The Board
+Stretcher.--How it is made and used.--The Wedge Stretcher.--How made
+and used.--The Bow Stretcher.--The Hoop Stretcher.--TANNING SKINS.--To
+Tan with the hair on.--Preparation of Skin for Tanning.--Tanning
+Mixture.--Recipe.--Second Mixture.--Recipe.--Third Mixture and
+Recipe.--How the Skin is softened and finished.--HOW TO TAN MINK
+AND MUSKRAT SKINS.--Preparation of Skin.--Tanning Mixtures.--Various
+Recipes.--"Fleshing."--The Fleshing-knife.--Substitute for the
+Fleshing-knife.--HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF THE BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON,
+AND MARTEN.--Tanning Mixtures.--How to soften the Skin.--Simple
+Tanned Skin.--Recipe for removing the fur.--How to finish the
+Skin.--OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.--Some
+bits of History in connection with Furs.--Ancient use of Furs.--Furs
+a medium of Exchange.--Furs and Fashion.--Extravagance in Fur
+Costume.--Choice Furs as Badges of Rank.--Their use restricted to
+Royal Families.--The Early Fur Trade of Europe.--A Tribute paid
+in Furs.--Early History of the Fur Trade in America.--Origin of
+the Hudson's Bay Company.--Hostility of the French Canadian
+Traders.--Establishment of the North West Company.--Competition and
+War.--Consolidation of the two Companies.--Great sales of the Hudson's
+Bay Company.--Importance of the Fur Trade.--Cities founded by the
+enterprise of the Trapper.--St. Paul.--Montreal and Mackinaw.--Fortunes
+built up on Fur Traffic.--John Jacob Astor.--Mink and Muskrat
+Skins.--Their extensive use in America.--Estimated value of the
+annual yield of Raw Furs throughout the World.--Classification
+of Furs by American Dealers.--"Home" Furs.--"Shipping" Furs.--Table
+of Sales of Hudson's Bay Company, in 1873.--March Sale.--September
+Sale.--Price according to Quality.--Estimated average per Skin.--List
+of American "Shipping" Furs.--List of American "Home" Furs.--MARKET
+VALUE OF FUR SKINS.--Eccentricities of the Fur Market.--Demand
+governed by Fashion.--How Fashion runs the Fur Trade.--The Amateur
+Trapper and the Fur Trade.--Difficulty of a profitable disposal
+of Furs.--Advice to the Novice.--How to realize on the sale of
+Furs.--TABLE OF VALUES OF AMERICAN FUR SKINS.--A complete list of
+American Fur bearing Animals.--Various prices of Skins according
+to Quality.--USES OF AMERICAN FURS AT HOME AND ABROAD.--The Silver
+Fox.--Fifty Guineas for a Fur Skin.--Red Fox Fur.--Its
+[Page xii]
+use in Oriental Countries.--Beaver Fur.--Its various uses.--Raccoon
+Skins, a great Staple for Russia and Germany.--Bear Skins and their
+various uses.--Lynx, Fisher, and Marten Skins.--The Mink.--Use of its
+hair for Artists pencils.--Muskrat Skins.--Three millions annually
+exported to Germany alone.--Their extensive use among the American
+poorer classes.--Otter Fur.--Sleigh Robes from Wolf Skins.--Rabbit
+Fur.--Its use in the Manufacture of Hats.--Breeding Rabbits for
+their Fur.--The Wolverine.--Skunk Fur, dignified by the name of
+Alaska Sable.--Large shipments to Foreign Countries.--How the Fur
+of the Badger is used.--Opossum, Puma, and Wild Cat Fur.--Robes
+for the Fashionable.--Squirrel and Mole skins.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page xiii]
+[Illustration: ILLUSTRATIONS.]
+
+FULL PAGES.
+
+    1. Caught at last.
+    2. Traps for Large Game.
+    3. Snares or Noose Traps.
+    4. Traps for Feathered Game.
+    5. Miscellaneous Traps.
+    6. Household Traps.
+    7. Steel Traps, and the art of Trapping.
+    8. Almost Persuaded.--to face.
+    9. The Campaign.
+   10. Trapper's Miscellany.
+
+[Page xiv]
+ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.
+
+   11. "Preface".
+   12. Initial to Preface.
+   13. End piece to Preface.
+   14. "Contents".
+   15. "Illustrations".
+   16. Initial to Book I
+   17. Dead fall for large Animals.
+   18. Explanatory drawing of pieces.
+   19. The Gun Trap.
+   20. The Bow Trap
+   21.  "   "   "   arrangement of parts.
+   22.  "   "   "   Section.
+   23. Foot String Bow Trap.
+   24. The Down fall.
+   25. The Bear Trap.
+   26. End piece to Book I.
+   27. Initial to Book II.
+   28. Quail Nooses.
+   29. Hedge Nooses.
+   30. The Triangle Snare.
+   31. The Twitch-up.
+   32. Method of Setting.
+   33.    "    "    "    No. 2.
+   34.    "    "    "    No. 3.
+   35.    "    "    "    No. 4.
+   36.    "    "    "    No. 5.
+   37. The Poacher's Snare.
+   38. The Portable Snare.
+   39. The "Simplest" Snare.
+   40. Modification No. 2.
+   41.      "        "  3.
+   42. The Quail Snare.
+   43. The Box Snare.
+   44. The Double Box Snare.
+   45. The Old fashioned Springle.
+   46. The Improved Springle.
+   47. The Figure Four Ground Snare.
+   48. The Platform Snare.
+   49. End piece.
+   50. Initial to Book III.
+   51. The Brick Trap.
+   52. Method of Setting.
+   53. The Coop Trap.
+   54. The Bat fowling Net.
+   55. The Clap Net.
+   56. The Bird Whistle.
+   57. The Trap Cage.
+   58. Diagrams of Cage.
+   59. The Spring Net Trap.
+[Page xv]
+   60. Section of Spring Net Trap.
+   61. A Simpler Net Trap.
+   62. The Upright Net Trap.
+   63. Second Method    "
+   64. The Box Owl Trap.
+   65. The Box Bird Trap.
+   66. The Pendant Box Bird Trap.
+   67. The Hawk Trap.
+   68. The Wild Duck Net.
+   69. The Hook Trap.
+   70. The Fool's Cap Trap.
+   71. The Limed Twig.
+   72. Humming-bird Trap.
+   73. Initial to Book IV.
+   74. The Common Box Trap.
+   75. Two Modes of Setting.
+   76. Box Trap.
+   77. The Figure Four Trap.
+   78. Parts of     "
+   79. The "Double Ender".
+   80. The Self-Setting Trap.
+   81. The Dead fall.
+   82. Method No. 2.
+   83. The Garotte.
+   84. Arrangement of "Setting".
+   85. The Bow Garotte Trap.
+   86. A Fish Trap.
+   87. End Piece "Maternal advice".
+   88. Initial to Book V.
+   89. The Barrel Trap.
+   90. The Box Dead Trap.
+   91. The Board Flap.
+   92. The Box Pit-fall.
+   93. Diagram of   "
+   94. Cage Trap.
+   95. Initial to Book VI.
+   96. Steel Trap. No. (0) or Rat Trap.
+   97. Steel Trap. No. 1, or Muskrat Trap.
+   98.   "     "   No. 2, or Mink Trap.
+   99.   "     "   No. 2-1/2, or Fox Trap.
+  100.   "     "   No. 3, or Otter Trap.
+  101.   "     "   No. 4, or Beaver Trap.
+  102. "The Great Bear Tamer," Steel Trap.
+  103. Steel Trap No. 5, or Small Bear Trap.
+  104. Steel Trap set in pen.
+  105. The Spring Pole.
+  106. The Sliding pole.
+  107. The Grappling Iron.
+  108. The Wolf.
+  109. The Puma.
+  110. The Canada Lynx.
+[Page xvi]
+  111. The Wild Cat.
+  112. The Bear.
+  113. The Raccoon.
+  114. The Badger.
+  115. The Beaver.
+  116. The Otter.
+  117. The Mink.
+  118. The Marten.
+  119. The Skunk.
+  120. The Wolverine.
+  121. The Opossum.
+  122. The Squirrel.
+  123. The Moose.
+  124. Initial to Book VII.
+  125. Portable Drinking Cup.
+  126. The Home Shanty.
+  127. The Shelter tent.
+  128. The Trapper's Bed.
+  129. End Piece.
+  130. Initial to Book VIII.
+  131. Head Net.
+  132. Portable Hat-brim.
+  133. Hat-brim with netting attachment.
+  134. The Dug-out or Log Canoe.
+  135. The Birch-Bark Canoe.
+  136. A Light Home-made Boat.
+  137. Diagram view of Boat----.
+  138. The Snow Shoe.
+  139. The Toboggan or Indian Sledge.
+  140. The Board Stretcher.
+  141. The Wedge Stretcher.
+  142. The Bow Stretcher.
+  143. "The End".
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 15]
+[Illustration: TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME]
+
+[Page 17]
+BOOK I.
+
+TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.
+
+
+[Illustration: H]owever free our forests may be from the lurking
+dangers of a tropical jungle, they nevertheless shelter a few large
+and formidable beasts which are legitimate and deserving subjects
+of the Trapper's Art. Chief among them are the Puma, or Cougar,
+Bear, Lynx, Wolf and Wolverine.
+
+Although commonly taken in steel traps, as described respectively
+in a later portion of this work, these animals are nevertheless
+often captured by Deadfalls and other devices, which are well known
+to the professional Trapper, and which serve excellently in cases
+of emergency, or in the scarcity of steel traps.
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+THE DEAD-FALL.
+
+There are several varieties of this trap, some of which are described
+in other parts of this volume. In general construction they all
+bear a similarity, the methods of setting being slightly changed
+to suit the various game desired for capture. For large animals,
+and particularly the Bear, the trap is sprung by the pressure of
+the animal's foot, while reaching for the bait. Select some favorite
+haunt of the Bear, and proceed to construct a pen of large stakes.
+These should consist of young trees, or straight branches, about
+three inches in diameter, and should be of such a length as to
+reach a height of four or five feet when set in the ground, this
+being the required height of the pen. Its width should be about
+two and a half or three feet; its depth, four feet; and the top
+should be roofed over with cross pieces of timber, to prevent the
+[Page 18]
+bait from being taken from above. A straight log, about eight inches
+in diameter, and six feet in length should now be rolled against the
+opening of the pen, and hemmed in by two upright posts, one on each
+side, directly on a line with the sides of the enclosure. Another
+log, or tree trunk, of the same diameter, and about fifteen or twenty
+feet in length, should next be procured. Having this in readiness,
+we will now proceed to the construction of the other pieces. In
+order to understand the arrangement of these, we present a separate
+drawing of the parts as they appear when the trap is set. (_a_),
+An upright post, is supplied at the upper end with a notch, having
+its flat face on the lower side. This post should be driven into
+the ground in the left hand back corner of the pen, and should
+be three feet or more in height. Another post (_b_) of similar
+dimensions, is provided with a notch at its upper end, the notch
+being reversed, _i. e._, having its flat side _uppermost_. This
+post should be set in the ground, _outside_ of the pen, on the
+right hand side and on a line with the first. A third post (_c_),
+is provided with a crotch on its upper end. This should be planted
+outside of the pen on the right hand side, and on a line with the
+front. The treadle piece consists of a forked branch, about three feet
+[Page 19]
+in length, supplied with a square board secured across its ends.
+At the junction of the forks, an augur hole is bored, into which a
+stiff stick about three feet in length is inserted. This is shown
+at (_h_). Two poles, (_d_) and (_e_), should next be procured, each
+about four feet in length. These complete the number of pieces,
+and the trap may then be set. Pass the pole (_d_) between the stakes
+of the pen, laying one end in the notch in the post (_a_), and
+holding the other beneath the notch in the upright (_b_). The second
+pole (_e_) should then be adjusted, one end being placed in the
+crotch post (_c_), and the other caught beneath the projecting
+end of the pole (_d_), as is fully illustrated in the engraving.
+The dead-log should then be rested on the front extremity of the
+pole last adjusted, thus effecting an equilibrium.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The treadle-piece should now be placed in position over a short
+stick of wood (_f_), with its platform raised in front, and the
+upright stick at the back secured beneath the edge of the latch
+pole (_d_).
+
+The best bait consists of _honey_, for which Bears have a remarkable
+fondness. It may be placed on the ground at the back part of the
+enclosure, or smeared on a piece of meat hung at the end of the
+pen. The dead-log should now be weighted by resting heavy timbers
+against its elevated end, as seen in the main drawing, after which
+the machine is ready for its deadly work.
+
+A Bear will never hesitate to risk his life where a feast of honey
+is in view, and the odd arrangement of timbers has no fears for
+him after that tempting bait has once been discovered. Passing
+beneath the suspended log, his heavy paw encounters the broad board
+on the treadle-piece, which immediately sinks with his weight. The
+upright pole at the back of the treadle is thus raised, forcing
+the latch-piece from the notch: this in turn sets free the side
+pole, and the heavy log is released falling with a crushing weight
+over the back of hapless Bruin.
+
+There are many other methods of setting the Dead-fall, several
+of which appear in another section of this book. The above is the
+one more commonly used for the capture of Bears, but the others are
+[Page 20]
+equally applicable and effective when enlarged to the proper size.
+
+In South America and other countries, where Lions, Tigers, Leopards,
+and Jaguars abound, these and other rude extempore traps are almost
+the only ones used, and are always very successful. The pit-fall
+often allures the Bengal Tiger to his destruction, and the Leopard
+often terminates his career at the muzzle of a rifle baited as
+seen in our page illustration. A gun thus arranged forms a most
+sure and deadly trap, and one which may be easily extemporized
+at a few moments' warning, in cases of emergency. The Puma of our
+northern forests, although by no means so terrible a foe as the
+Leopard, is still a blood-thirsty creature, and while he shuns the
+gaze of man with the utmost fear, he is nevertheless constantly
+on the alert to spring upon him unawares, either in an unguarded
+moment or during sleep. A hungry Puma, who excites suspicion by
+his stealthy prowling and ominous growl, may easily be led to his
+destruction at the muzzle of a gun, baited as we shall now describe.
+
+
+THE GUN TRAP.
+
+After a Puma has succeeded in capturing his prey, and has satisfied
+his appetite by devouring a portion of its carcass, he leaves the
+remainder for a second meal, and his early return to a second banquet
+is almost a matter of certainty. Where such a remnant of a bygone
+feast is found, the capture of the Cougar is an easy matter. Any
+carcass left in a neighborhood where Pumas are known to exist is
+sure to attract them, and day after day its bulk will be found to
+decrease until the bones only remain. By thus "baiting" a certain
+place and drawing the Pumas thither, the way is paved for their
+most certain destruction. The gun-trap is very simply constructed,
+and may be put in working order in a very few moments. The weapon
+may be a rifle or shot-gun. In the latter case it should be heavily
+loaded with buck-shot. The stock should be first firmly tied to
+some tree, or secured in a stout crotch driven into the ground,
+the barrel being similarly supported.
+
+The gun should be about three feet from the ground, and should
+be aimed at some near tree to avoid possible accident to a chance
+passer-by within its range. The gun should then be cocked, _but
+not capped_, due caution being always used, and the cap adjusted
+the very last thing after the trap is baited and set. Where a rifle
+[Page 21]
+is used, the cartridge should not be inserted until the last thing.
+
+It is next necessary to cut a small sapling about a foot or two
+in length. Its diameter should allow it to fit snugly inside the
+guard in front of the trigger, without springing the hammer. Its
+other end should now be supported by a very slight crotch, as shown
+in our illustration. Another sapling should next be procured, its
+length being sufficient to reach from the muzzle of the gun to
+the end of the first stick, and having a branch stub or hook on
+one end. The other extremity should be attached by a string to
+the tip of the first slick.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Now take a portion of the carcass and draw it firmly over the hook
+in the long stick. Prop the latter in such a position as that the
+bait shall hang directly in front of the muzzle. The crotch supporting
+the bait stick should be firmly implanted in the ground in order
+to hold the bait from being drawn to either side of the muzzle.
+
+The gun-trap is now set, and its merits may be tested. Before adjusting
+the cap the pieces should be tried several times to insure their
+perfect working. A slight pull on the bait from the front will
+draw the short stick forward. This immediately
+[Page 22]
+acts on the trigger and causes the hammer to snap. By a few trials,
+the sticks can be arranged so as to spring the trigger easily,
+and where a hair trigger is used, a mere touch on the bait will
+suffice to discharge the gun. When all is found to work perfectly,
+the trap should be surrounded by a rude pen of sticks and branches,
+extending two or three feet beyond the muzzle, in order to insure
+an approach directly in the aim of the gun. The cap should now be
+placed on the nipple, after which the deadly device may be left
+to do its certain work. The remaining portion of the carcass should
+be removed, and where the locality is likely to be frequented by
+other hunters or trappers, it is well to put up a "danger" signal
+to guard against accident. If desired two or three guns may be
+arranged like the spokes of a wheel, all aiming near the bait.
+Even with one gun the victim stands but little chance, but where
+two or three pour their contents into his body, his death is an
+absolute certainty.
+
+By fastening the gun three feet above ground the load is discharged
+upward into the mouth of its victim, and thus directly through
+the brain. Where two or more guns are used, it is advisable to
+aim at least one in such a direction as will send its charge into
+the _breast_ of the animal.
+
+The Indian Panther is very commonly taken by the gun trap, and
+even Lions are sometimes secured by the same device, only increased
+in power by a larger number of guns.
+
+There are several other methods of setting the gun trap. One way
+consists in attaching a string to the finger piece of the trigger,
+passing it back through a small staple or screw eye inserted in
+the under side of the stock for that purpose, and then drawing
+the string forward and attaching it to the top of the bait stick.
+This latter is stuck in the ground directly in front of the muzzle
+and the bait secured to its extremity. When the tempting morsel is
+grasped, the bait stick is drawn forward and the string pulled, the
+result of course being the discharge of the gun. By still another
+method, an elastic is passed through the screw eye in the stock and
+over the finger piece of the trigger, thus tending continually to
+draw it back and spring the hammer. To set the gun a short stick
+is inserted behind the finger piece, thus overcoming the power
+of the elastic. It should be very delicately adjusted, so that a
+mere touch will dislodge it. Its length should be about six inches,
+and to its other end the bait stick should be attached and arranged
+as first described. Although a rather dangerous trap to be set at
+random it is nevertheless often utilized and has brought many a
+[Page 23]
+dreaded marauder to his doom.
+
+The bear, lynx, and other large animals are sometimes taken by the
+gun trap, but it is most generally set for the Puma.
+
+
+THE BOW TRAP.
+
+This device does duty in India and Southern Asia, where it is known
+as the _tiger trap_.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It is easily constructed as follows: First cut a stout board five
+inches in width, two and a half feet in length and about two inches
+in thickness. Shave off one end to a point so that it may be driven
+into the ground. At the other extremity, in the middle of the board
+and about two inches from the edge, a hole one half an inch in
+diameter and three quarters of an inch in height, should be made;
+two auger holes, one directly above the other with the sides flatly
+trimmed, will answer perfectly. The arrow should next be constructed.
+This should be made of seasoned oak or ash, two feet in length,
+perfectly straight, smooth and round, and one third of an inch in
+[Page 24]
+diameter. One end should be notched for the bow string and vaned with
+thin feathers after the manner of ordinary arrows. The other extremity
+should be armed with a steel barb sharply pointed, and firmly riveted
+in place. Any blacksmith can forge such a tip; the shape of which is
+plainly seen in our engraving. The bow should consist of a piece of
+stout seasoned hickory, oak or ash four feet long, if such a bow is
+not at hand, a stout sapling may be used. The bow string may consist
+of cat-gut, or stout Indian twine.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Before setting the trap, it is advisable to attract the game to
+the spot selected as already alluded to in connection with the
+gun trap, and particularly so when the Puma is the victim sought.
+In our illustration we see the trap as it appears when set, and
+the same precaution of aiming at some tree should be exercised
+as advise with the gun trap. The bow should first be secured in
+place directly beneath and one eighth of an inch from the edge of
+the hole in the board, as seen at (_a_). Two large wire staples
+may be used for this purpose, being passed over the bow through
+holes in the board and clinched on the opposite side. The bend
+of the bow and length of string should now be determined, one end
+of the latter being attached to the tip of the bow and the other
+end supplied with a loop. The board should then be driven into the
+ground to the depth of about eight inches. We will next take up
+the arrow. Pass the barb through the hole in the board and adjust
+the notch over the bow-string, draw the arrow back and release the
+string. If the arrow slide easily and swiftly, through the board,
+keeping true to its aim, the contrivance is in perfect working
+order and is ready to be set. This is accomplished by the very
+simple and ingenious mechanical arrangement, shown at (_b_). On
+the under side of the arrow just behind the barb, a flat notch
+one eighth of an inch in depth and two and a half inches in length
+is cut, with rounded ends, as seen in the illustration. The bait
+stick should consist of a sapling about three feet in length, the
+large end being trimmed so
+[Page 25]
+as to fit in the hole over the arrow while the notch in the latter
+rests in the bottom of the aperture as seen in the illustration
+(_b_). The trap may then be set. Draw back the arrow, until the
+notch rests in the hole in the board. Insert the bait stick _very
+lightly_ above the arrow as shown at (_b_), propping it in place
+at the angle seen in the main drawing. The bait for a puma should
+consist of a portion of some carcass, or if for other animals,
+any of the baits given in our section on "trapping" may be used.
+In order to secure the bait firmly to the bait stick, a small hole
+and a peg at the side of the baited end will effectually prevent
+its removal and the trap win thus most surely be sprung. The prop
+which sustains the bait stick need be only a small crotch inserted
+a little to one side of the trap. The bow should now be surrounded
+by a wide pen, allowing room for the spring of the ends. The top of
+the enclosure should also be guarded by a few sticks or branches
+laid across. Directly in front of the trap and extending from it, a
+double row of rough stakes three feet high should be constructed,
+thus insuring an approach in the direct range of the arrow. Without
+this precaution the bait might be approached from the side, and the
+arrow pass beneath the head of the animal, whereas on the other
+hand it is sure to take effect in the neck or breast of its victim.
+Of course the success of this trap depends entirely upon the strength
+of the bow. When a large and powerful one is used its effect is
+almost surely fatal.
+
+Another form of the bow trap, much used in the capture of the tiger,
+forms the subject of our next illustration: no bait is here used.
+The trap is set at the side of the beaten path of the tiger and
+is sprung by the animal pressing against a string in passing. The
+bow is large and powerful and is secured to two upright posts about
+eight inches apart. The string is drawn back and a blunt stick is
+then inserted between the bow string and the inside centre of the
+bow, thus holding the latter in a bent position. A stout stick,
+with a flattened end is next inserted between the end of the blunt
+stick and the inside of the bow, the
+[Page 26]
+remaining part of the stick extending downwards, as our illustration
+shows. To the lower end of this stick a string is attached and
+carried across the path in the direct range of the arrow, being
+secured to a stake on the opposite side. The arrow is generally
+barbed with a steel or flint point, and wound with thread saturated
+with a deadly poison. This is now rested on the top of the bow
+between the upright parts, and its notch caught in the bow-string.
+Everything is then in readiness. The tiger soon steals along his
+beaten track. He comes nearer and nearer the trap until at last
+his breast presses the string. Twang, goes the bow and the arrow is
+imbedded in the flesh of its victim. He writhes for a few moments,
+until he is released from his torments by the certain death which
+follows the course of the poison through his veins.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The use of the poison is very dangerous: a mere scratch through the
+skin is likely to prove fatal, and the trapper is thus likely to
+prove his own victim. Poisoned arrows are little used by trappers;
+and the bow trap, when properly constructed, is sufficiently effective
+without the venom.
+
+
+THE DOWN-FALL.
+
+This is the famous harpoon trap, so commonly used in Africa for
+the capture of the hippopotamus. There is no reason why
+[Page 27]
+it may not be successfully employed in our own country for taking
+large game, or modified on a reduced scale for smaller animals.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The hippopotamus makes his daily rounds in regular beaten pathways;
+and the trapper, knowing this peculiarity, turns it to advantage.
+This is a common habit with many animals; and these "runways" are
+easily detected by the matted leaves and grass and the broken twigs.
+Over such a beaten track the harpoon-trap is suspended.
+
+The harpoon used by the native African trappers somewhat resembles
+a double-barbed arrowhead, and has a reflexed prong on the shaft
+just behind the barbs,--a sort of combination between a spear and
+a fish-hook. It is a terrible weapon; and, when once launched into
+the flesh of its victim, its withdrawal is impossible, on account
+of the reflexed barb. Any sharp steel shaft will answer the purpose
+of the harpoon; it should be eight or ten inches in length, and
+filed to a keen point. We will now construct the trap. The first
+requisite is a straight section of the branch of some tree. This
+should be about four inches in diameter, and four feet in length.
+Into one end of this beam the harpoon should be firmly imbedded,
+allowing the point to project about six inches. This beam should
+[Page 28]
+then be weighted with two large stones, attached firmly by a rope,
+about eighteen inches above the harpoon. At about six inches from
+the other end of the log a notch should be cut, having its flat
+side uppermost, as shown plainly in our illustration. The implement
+is now ready.
+
+Select some favorably situated tree, whose branches extend over
+the pathway chosen for the trap. By the aid of a rope secured to
+the log, and thrown over the limb, the weighted beam may be drawn
+up into the tree. While thus held by a person below, the trapper
+should climb the tree to complete operations. For this purpose, a
+smaller branch about three feet in length should be cut. One end
+should be flattened off on both sides, so as to fit in the notch
+in the beam; and the part which rests on the limb, as seen in the
+illustration, should also be flattened to prevent turning. A piece
+of stout Indian twine should next be fastened to the unwhittled end
+of the stick, which may then be adjusted in the notch of the harpoon
+beam, as seen in the engraving. The string may then be thrown down,
+and grasped by the companion below, who holds it firmly, after
+which the original rope may be removed. It will be noticed that the
+weight of the harpoon and accompaniments rests on the short arm of
+the lever which passes over the limb of the tree, and the tension on
+the string from the long arm is thus very slight. This precaution
+is necessary for the perfect working of the trap. To complete the
+contrivance, a small peg with a rounded notch should be cut, and
+driven into the ground directly plumb beneath the long end of the
+lever. It should be inserted into the earth only sufficiently to
+hold the string without pulling out, and the _side_ of the notch
+should face the path; its height should be about a foot. Into the
+notch the string should be passed, being afterwards drawn across
+the path and secured on the opposite side at the same height. The
+trap is now set; and woe to the unlucky quadruped that dares make
+too free with that string! A very slight pressure from either side
+is equally liable to slip the string from the notch, or loosen the
+peg from the ground; and the result is the same in either case,--down
+comes the weighted harpoon, carrying death and destruction to its
+victim.
+
+For large animals, this made of setting will be found to work perfectly.
+When constructed on a smaller scale, it may be slightly modified.
+It will be noticed that, when the string is approached from one
+side, it is merely slipped out of the notch,--a slight pressure
+being sufficient to dislodge it,--while the pressure
+[Page 29]
+from the opposite direction must be strong enough to lift the peg
+out of the ground bodily. This is easily done when the peg is lightly
+inserted; but, to _insure_ success, even with _light_ pressure from
+either side, an additional precaution may be used, if desired.
+Instead of fastening the end of the string securely to some object
+on the further side of the path, it is well to provide the end of
+the cord with a ring or loop, which should be passed over a nail
+or short peg driven in some tree or branch, or fastened into an
+upright stake, firmly embedded into the ground. The nail should
+point in the opposite direction from the notch in the peg, and
+its angle should incline slightly toward the path. It will thus
+be seen that an approach from one side forces the string from the
+notch in the peg, while an opposite pressure slides the ring from
+the nail.
+
+This mode of setting is especially desirable for small animals,
+on account of its being more sensitive.
+
+Such a trap may be successfully used for the puma, bear, and the
+lynx. When constructed for smaller animals, the harpoon may be
+dispensed with, a large stone being equally effective in its
+death-dealing qualities
+
+
+THE BEAR TRAP.
+
+This trap is constructed after the idea of the old-fashioned box
+or rabbit trap, and has been the means of securing many a hungry
+bear, or even puma, whose voracity has exceeded its cunning. The
+lynx and wild-cat are also among its occasional victims; and inasmuch
+as its prisoners are taken alive great sport is often realized
+before the captive is brought under control.
+
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the affair. The sides
+are built of stout young tree-trunks, cut into sections and firmly
+driven into the ground close together. For a large animal,--a bear,
+for instance,--the enclosure should be about seven feet deep, two
+and a half feet wide, and four feet high. The top should be built
+in with the sides, after the manner of the log cabin, described
+in page (244.) The two posts at the entrance should be first set
+up. On the back side of each, near the end, a deep notch should be
+cut for the reception of the cross piece at the top. This should
+likewise be notched in a similar manner on both sides of each end,
+so as to fit singly into the notches in the uprights on the one
+side, and into the second pair of uprights
+[Page 30]
+on the other. These latter should next be inserted firmly into
+the ground, having been previously notched on both sides of their
+upper ends, as described for the cross piece. They may either be
+fixed in place and the cross piece sprung in between them at the
+top, or the latter may be held in the notches of the first pair,
+while the second are being inserted. Continue thus until the full
+length of the sides are reached, when the end may be closed by
+an upright wall of plain logs, either hammered into the ground,
+after the manner of the sides, or arranged one above another in
+notches between the two end uprights. The sliding door is next
+required. This should be large enough to cover the opening, and
+should be made of stout board slabs, firmly secured by cross pieces.
+It should be made to slide smoothly into grooves cut into perpendicular
+logs situated on each side of the opening, or may be arranged to
+slip easily between the flattened side of one log on each side
+and the front of the pen. Either way works well. In the latter
+an additional upright or short board should be inserted in the
+ground at the edges of the sliding door, to prevent the latter
+from being forced to either side by the efforts of the enclosed
+captive.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There are two or three ways of setting the trap, depending upon
+the desired game. For a bear it is arranged as in our illustration.
+An upright post, two feet in length, should be cut
+[Page 31]
+to an edge at one end, and wedged in between the logs at the top
+of the trap, near the middle. Across the top of this, a pole seven
+feet in length, should be rested; one end being attached by a loop,
+or secured in a notch in the sliding door, and the other supplied
+with a strong string about four feet in length, with a stick eight
+inches in length secured to its end. Through the centre log, in
+the back of the pen, and about two feet from the ground, an auger
+hole should be made. The bait stick with bait attached should be
+inserted through this hole from the inside, and the spindle caught
+on the outside between its projecting end and a nail driven in
+the adjoining upright. This principle is clearly illustrated on
+page 105 at (_a_), and, if desired, the method (_b_) may be used
+also. For a bear, the bait should consist of a piece of meat scented
+with burnt honey-comb. The odor of honey will tempt a bear into
+almost any trap, and even into such close quarters as the above
+he will enter without the slightest suspicion, when a feast of
+honey is in view.
+
+For the cougar, or puma, the best bait is a live lamb or a young
+pig, encaged in a small pen erected at the end of the trap. A fowl
+is also excellent. When thus baited, the setting of the trap is
+varied. The upright post at the top of the trap is inserted nearer
+the front, and the cross pole is stouter. The auger hole is bored
+in the top of the trap, through the centre of one of the logs, and
+about twenty inches from the back end of the trap. The spindle is
+dispensed with and the end of the string is provided with a large
+knot, which is lowered through the auger hole, and is prevented
+from slipping back by the insertion of a stick beneath. This stick
+should be about three feet in length, and of such a size at the
+end as will snugly fit into the auger hole. It should be inserted
+delicately, merely enough to hold the knot from slipping back, and
+so as to be easily released by a slight movement in any direction.
+
+This mode of setting is more fully detailed on page 52. As the
+puma steals in upon his prey he dislodges the stick, the lid falls,
+and he finds himself imprisoned with his intended victim. This
+trap is much used in India and Asia for the capture of the tiger,
+and the jaguar of South America is frequently entrapped by the
+same devices.
+
+
+THE PIT-FALL.
+
+The tiger is the scourge of India and Southern Asia and some sections
+of these countries are so terribly infested with
+[Page 32]
+the brutes that the inhabitants are kept in a continual state of
+terror by their depredations. Many methods are adopted by the natives
+for the destruction of the terrible creatures, some of which have
+already been described. The pit-fall is still another device by
+which this lurking marauder is often captured and destroyed. It
+sometimes consists of a mere pit covered and baited in the haunts of
+the tiger, or is constructed in a continuous deep ditch surrounding
+the habitations of the natives, and thus acting as a secure protection.
+The pit is about twelve feet deep and ten feet in width, and its
+outside edge is lined with a hedge five or six feet in height.
+As the fierce brute steals upon his intended prey, he nears the
+hedge and at one spring its highest branch is cleared. He reaches
+the earth only to find himself at the bottom of a deep pit, from
+which there is no hope of escape, and where he speedily becomes
+the merciless victim of a shower of deadly arrows and bullets.
+
+Happily we have no tigers in the United States, but the puma and
+the lynx are both fit subjects for the pit-fall. These animals
+cannot be said to exist in such numbers as to become a scourge
+and a stranger to the inhabitants of any neighborhood, and for
+this reason the "Moat" arrangement of the pit-fall is not required.
+The simple pit is often used, and when properly constructed and
+baited is a very _sure_ trap. The hole should be about twelve feet
+in depth and eight feet across, widening at the bottom. Its opening
+should be covered with slicks, earth and leaves, so arranged as
+to resemble the surroundings as much as possible, but so lightly
+adjusted as that they will easily give way at a slight pressure.
+One edge of the opening should now be closely built up with stakes
+firmly inserted into the ground, and so constructed as to form a
+small pen in the middle, in which to secure the bait, generally
+a live turkey, goose, or other fowl. The other three sides should
+also be hedged in by a single row of upright stakes three or four
+feet in height, and a few inches apart in order that the hungry
+puma may whet his appetite by glimpses between them.
+
+They should be firmly imbedded in the earth directly at the edge
+of the pit, and as far as possible trimmed of their branches on the
+inside. There will thus be a small patch of solid ground for the
+feet of the fowl, which should be tied by the leg in the enclosure.
+Our trap is now set, and if there is a puma in the neighborhood he
+will be sure to pay it a call and probably a _visit_.
+
+Spying his game, he uses every effort to reach it through the
+[Page 33]
+crevices between the stakes. The cries of the frightened fowl arouse
+and stimulate his appetite, and at last exasperated by his futile
+efforts to seize his victim, he springs over the fence of stakes
+and is lodged in the depths of the pit.
+
+The puma is very agile of movement, and unless the pit is at least
+twelve feet in depth there is danger of his springing out. Any
+projecting branch on the inside of the stakes affords a grasp for
+his ready paw, and any such branch, if within the reach of his
+leap, is sure to effect his escape. For this reason it is advisable
+to trim smoothly all the projections and leave no stub or knot
+hole by which he could gain the slightest hold. The construction
+of a pit-fall is a rather difficult operation on account of the
+digging which it necessitates. On this account it is not so much
+used as many other traps which are not only equally effective but
+much more easily constructed. The following is an example:--
+
+
+THE LOG COOP TRAP.
+
+This is commonly set for bears, although a deer or a puma becomes
+its frequent tenant. As its name implies it consists of a coop of
+logs, arranged after the principle of the Coop Trap described on
+page 67. The logs should be about eight feet in length, notched
+at the ends as described for the Log Cabin, page (244). Lay two
+of the logs parallel about seven feet apart. Across their ends in
+the notches, lay two others and continue building up in "cob-house"
+fashion until the height of about six feet is reached. The corners
+may be secured as they are laid by spikes, or they may be united
+afterward in mass by a rope firmly twisted about them from top to
+bottom. Logs should now be laid across the top of the coop and
+firmly secured by the spikes or rope knots. There are several ways
+of setting the trap. A modification of that described on page 67
+works very well, or an arrangement of spindle and bait stick, as
+in the Box Trap, page 105, may also be employed. In the latter
+case, the bait stick is either inserted between the logs at the
+back of the coop, or a hole is bored through one of them for this
+purpose. For this mode of setting, the coop should be constructed
+beneath some tree. It is set by means of a rope attached to the
+upper edge of one of its sides the rope being thrown over a limb
+of the tree and the loose end brought down and secured to the bait
+stick by a spindle, as described
+[Page 34]
+for the trap on page (195). The limb here acts in place of the
+tall end piece of the Box Trap, and by raising the coop up to such
+an angle as that it will be nearly poised, the setting may be made
+so delicate that a mere touch on the bait stick from the interior
+will dislodge the pieces and let fall the enclosure. The _simplest_
+mode of setting the trap is that embodied in the "snare" method on
+page (52). The rope is here provided with a knot, which must pass
+easily between the logs, or through the hole at the back of the
+coop, the length of rope being so arranged as that the coop shall
+be sufficiently raised where the knot projects into the interior. The
+introduction of the bait stick beneath the knot will thus prevent
+the latter from being drawn back, and thus our trap is set. The
+bait stick in any case should be about two feet in length; and with
+this leverage but a slight touch will be required to spring the
+pieces. In the latter method the limb of the tree is not necessary.
+A stout crotched stake driven into the ground about twenty feet,
+at the back of the coop, will answer every purpose, and the coop
+may be constructed wherever desired. This is a most excellent trap
+for large animals. It secures the game alive, and is thus often
+productive of most exciting sport. For the bear, the bait should
+consist of honey or raw meat. Full directions for baiting all kinds
+of American game are given under their respective heads in another
+part of this book. The Coop Trap may be constructed of any dimensions,
+from the small example on page (67) to the size above described.
+
+There are several other inventions commonly used for the capture
+of large animals in various parts of the globe, which would be
+of little avail in this country. Such is the African Corrall, or
+Hopo, by which whole herds of quaggas, elands, and buffalo are
+often destroyed. The trap consists of two hedges in the form of
+the letter V, which are very high and thick at the angle. Instead
+of the hedges being joined at this point, they are made to form a
+lane about two hundred feet in length, at the extremity of which
+a giant pit is formed. Trunks of trees are laid across the margins
+to prevent the animals from escaping. The opening of this pit is
+then covered with light reeds and small green boughs. The hedges
+often extend miles in length and are equally as far apart at these
+extremities. The tribe of hunters make a circle, three or four
+miles around the country adjacent to the opening, and gradually
+closing up are almost sure to enclose a large body of game, which,
+by shouts and skilfully hurled Javelins, they drive into the narrowing
+[Page 35]
+walls of the Hopo. The affrighted animals rush headlong to the gate
+presented at the end of the converging hedges and here plunge pell-mell
+into the pit, which is soon filled with a living mass. Some escape by
+running over the others; and the natives, wild with excitement,
+spear the poor animals with mad delight, while others of the brutes
+are smothered and crushed by the weight of their dead and dying
+companions. It is a most cruel and inhuman device, and its effects
+are sometimes appalling.
+
+
+THE NET TRAP.
+
+The lion and tiger are often taken in a net, which is secured to
+a frame work and suspended over a tempting bait. When the latter
+is touched the net falls, and the victim becomes entangled in the
+meshes and is securely caught. So far as we know, this mode of
+capture is never tried in this country. For the puma, lynx and
+wild-cat we fancy it might work admirably. The net should be of
+stout cord, and should be secured to a heavy square frame work,
+tilted as in the coop trap, already described. There should be
+plenty of slack in the net, and the looseness should be drawn flat
+over the framework in folds. The contrivance may be set by a large
+figure four trap, page (107), or the device described under the
+coop trap, page (67).
+
+The use of bird lime, for the capture of a tiger, certainly seems
+odd; but it is, nevertheless, a common mode of taking the animal,
+in the countries where this marauder abounds. The viscid, tenacious
+preparation known as bird lime is described on page (97) and is
+familiar to most of our readers. For the capture of birds it is
+unfailing, when once their delicate plumage comes in contact with
+it. Its effect on the tiger is surprising, and many a hunter has
+secured his striped foe by its aid. For this purpose, the cans
+of the preparation are arranged on elevated boards around a bed
+of leaves, in which the bait is placed. A small platform is so
+placed that the tiger shall step upon it in reaching for the bait,
+which, by the aid of strings, tilts the boards and tips off the
+cans. The lime spills on its victim and over the bed of leaves,
+and the tiger, in his endeavors to free himself from the sticky
+substance only succeeds in spreading it, and as he rolls and tumbles
+on the ground he soon becomes completely smeared and covered with
+the dry leaves, from which it is impossible for him to extricate
+himself.
+
+In his frantic rage he writhes upon the ground and becomes an easy
+[Page 36]
+prey to the hunter, who is generally on hand for the fray.
+
+Steel traps are much used for the capture of large game, and are
+made in sizes especially adapted for the purpose. These are described
+under the proper head, in another portion of this work; and the various
+baits and modes of setting required for the different animals, are
+clearly set forth under their respective titles of the latter,
+in the section "Art of Trapping."
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 37]
+[Illustration: SNARES OR MOOSE TRAPS]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 39]
+BOOK II.
+
+SNARES OR MOOSE TRAPS.
+
+
+[Illustration: T]hese devices, although properly coming under the
+head of "traps," differ from them in the sense in which they are
+generally understood. A _snare_ naturally implies an _entanglement_;
+and for this reason the term is applied to those contrivances which
+secure their victims by the aid of strings or nooses. Inventions of
+this kind are among the most useful and successful to the professional
+Trapper, and their varieties are numerous. The "Twitch-up" will be
+recognized as a familiar example by many of our country readers,
+who may have seen it during their rambles, cautiously set in the
+low underbrush, awaiting its prey, or perhaps holding aloft its
+misguided victim.
+
+Snares are among the most interesting and ingenious of the trap
+kind, besides being the most sure and efficacious. They possess
+one advantage over all other traps; they can be made in the woods,
+and out of the commonest material.
+
+Let the young trapper supply himself with a small, sharp hatchet,
+and a stout, keen edged jack-knife,--these being the only tools
+required. He should also provide himself with a coil of fine brass
+"sucker wire," or a quantity of horse-hair nooses (which will be
+described further on), a small ball of tough twine and a pocket full
+of bait, such as apples, corn, oats and the like, of course depending
+upon the game he intends to trap. With these, his requirements are
+complete, and he has the material for a score of capital snares,
+which will do him much excellent service if properly constructed.
+Perhaps the most common of the noose traps is the ordinary
+
+
+QUAIL SNARE,
+
+which forms the subject of our first illustration. This consists
+of a series of nooses fastened to a strong twine or wire. They
+[Page 40]
+may be of any number, and should either consist of fine wire,
+horse-hair, or fine fish-line. If of wire, common brass "sucker
+wire," to be found in nearly all hardware establishments and country
+stores, is the best. Each noose should be about four inches in
+diameter. To make it, a small loop should be twisted on one end of
+the wire, and the other passed through it, thus making a slipping
+loop, which will be found to work very easily. Fifteen or twenty of
+these nooses should be made, after which they should be fastened
+either to a stout string or wire, at distances of about four inches
+from each other, as seen in our illustration. Each end of the long
+string supporting the nooses should then be fastened to a wooden
+peg. After selecting the ground, the pegs should be driven into
+the earth, drawing the string tightly, as seen in our illustration.
+The ground around the nooses should then be sprinkled with corn,
+oats, and the like, and the trap is set. As a general thing, it
+is advisable to set it in a neighborhood where quails are known
+to abound; and as they run all over the ground in search of food,
+they are sure to come across the bait strewn for them, and equally
+as certain to be caught and entangled in the nooses. The writer
+has known as many as six quails to be thus caught at a time, on
+a string of only twelve nooses. Partridges and woodcock will
+occasionally be found entangled in the snare, and it will oft-times
+happen that a rabbit will be secured by the device.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+HOOP NOOSES.
+
+This is a variation from the above, the noose being attached to
+a barrel hoop and the latter being fastened to two stout posts,
+which are firmly driven into the ground. By their scattering the
+bait inside the hoop, and adjusting the loops, the contrivance
+is complete.
+
+This is a very old and approved method.
+
+In the initial (T) at the head of this section we give also
+[Page 41]
+another suggestion for a noose trap. The cross pieces are tacked to
+the top of the upright, and a noose suspended from each end,--the
+bait adjusted as there seen.
+
+We have mentioned horse-hair nooses as being desirable, and they
+are commonly used; but, as it takes considerable time to make them,
+and the wire answering the purpose fully as well, we rather recommend
+the wire in preference. We will give a few simple directions, however,
+for the making of the horse-hair nooses, in case our readers might
+desire to use them instead.
+
+Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (we would
+recommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of the hairs
+and double it in the middle, hold the double between the thumb
+and fore-finger of the left hand, letting the two ends hang from
+the under side of the thumb, and keeping the hairs between the
+thumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. Now proceed to
+twist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, letting them
+twist together as the loop emerges on the upper side of the thumb.
+
+A little practice will overcome what at first seems very difficult.
+To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right distance
+of separation, and at the same time to twist them and draw the
+loop from between the fingers as they _are_ twisted, seems quite a
+complicated operation; and so it will be found at first. But when
+once mastered by practice, the twisting of five nooses a minute will
+be an easy matter. When the entire length of the hairs are twisted,
+the ends should be cut off even and then passed through the small
+loop at the folded end. The noose is then ready to be fastened
+to the main string of support. Horse-hair nooses are commonly used
+in nearly all snares as they are always to be had, and possess
+considerable strength. The fine brass wire is also extensively
+used, and the writer rather prefers it. It is very strong and slips
+easily, besides doing away with the trouble of twisting the loops,
+which to some might be a very difficult and tedious operation. We
+recommend the wire, and shall allude to it chiefly in the future,
+although the horse-hair may be substituted whenever desired.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is another modification of the foregoing quail-traps very
+commonly utilized by professional trappers of many countries. A
+low hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length small
+openings are left here and there, in which the nooses are placed,
+as in the accompanying engraving. The bait is strewn around on both
+sides of the hedge, and the grouse or other game, on its discovery,
+are almost sure to become entangled
+[Page 42]
+sooner or later. It is a well-known fact about these birds, that
+they will always seek to pass _under_ an object which comes in their
+way rather than fly over it; and although the hedge of this trap is
+only a foot or more in height, the birds will almost invariably run
+about until they find an opening, in preference to flying over it.
+It is owing to this peculiarity of habit that they are so easily
+taken by this method. Our illustration gives only a very short
+section of hedge; it may be extended to any length. The writer's
+experience with the hedge nooses has been very satisfactory, although
+never using a length greater than ten feet. It is well to set the
+hedge in the locality where quails or partridges are _known_ to
+run. And in setting, it is always desirable to build the hedge
+so that it will stretch over some open ground, and connect with
+two trees or bushes. Cedar boughs are excellent for the purpose,
+but any close brushwood will answer very well. Strew the ground
+with corn, oats and the like. A small quantity only is necessary.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is another noose trap commonly used abroad, and very little
+known here. It is a _tree_ trap, and goes by the name of the "triangle
+snare." It is not designed for the capture of any _particular_ kind
+of bird, although it often will secure fine and rare specimens.
+It consists of a sapling of wood, bent and tied in the form of a
+triangle, as shown in our illustration. This may be of any size,
+depending altogether on the bird the young trapper fancies to secure.
+A noose should be suspended in the triangle from its longest point.
+This noose should hang as indicated in our illustration, falling
+low enough to leave a space of an inch or so below it at the bottom
+of the triangle. The bait, consisting of a piece of an apple, a
+berry, insect, or piece of
+[Page 43]
+meat, according to the wish of the trapper, should then be suspended
+in the centre of the noose, after which the contrivance should be
+hung in some tree to await events. As they are so easily made and
+can be carried with so little trouble, it is an excellent plan to
+set out with a dozen or so, hanging them all in different parts of
+the woods; as, under circumstances of so many being set, scarcely
+a day will pass in which the trapper will not be rewarded by some
+one of the snares. The writer once knew of a case where a hawk
+was captured by one of these simple devices. In this case it had
+been set expressly, and the wire was extra strong. This trap, we
+believe, is quite common in parts of Germany, but, as far as we
+know, has not been utilized to any great extent in our country.
+We recommend it with great confidence.
+
+For the capture of woodchucks, muskrats and house-rats, the wire
+noose may also be adapted to good purpose. Many a woodchuck has been
+secured by the aid of this simple invention. It is only necessary
+to arrange the loop in the opening of the burrow, securing the wire
+to a stout stick, firmly driven into the ground. If properly "set"
+the animal, on emerging from the burrow, will become entangled, and
+by his efforts to disengage himself will only tighten the loop
+and thus render escape impossible. For rats, the noose should be
+attached to a nail, and the wire similarly arranged over the hole.
+
+The slipping-noose thus simply adapted becomes a most effective
+trap, and is always sure to hold its victim when once within its
+grasp, as every struggle only tends to draw the noose tighter. They
+are quick in their action, and produce death without much pain,
+and for this reason are to be commended.
+
+
+THE "TWITCH-UP."
+
+Our next example of the snare, we imagine, is one which all our
+boy-readers will immediately recognize; for it would certainly
+seem that any country boy who does not know the "Twitch-up" must
+be far behind the times, and live in a locality where there are
+no rabbits, quail, or even boys, besides himself, to suggest it.
+This snare is a _universal favorite_ among nearly all country boys,
+and our illustration will immediately bring it to mind. Its name,
+"The Twitch-up," conveys perfectly its method of working. Our
+illustration represents the trap as it appears when set. It has many
+varieties, of which we will select the best. They may be divided
+into two classes--those with upright nooses, and those in which
+[Page 44]
+the noose is spread on the ground, the latter of which are commonly
+called "ground snares." We will give our attention first to the
+"upright" style. These are rather entitled to preference on account
+of the harmless death which they inflict, invariably catching by
+the neck. Whereas the ground nooses as frequently lift their prey
+into the air by their feet, and thus prolong their suffering.
+Twitch-ups are the most successful and sure of any snares, and that,
+too, without being complicated. The writer, in his younger days,
+was quite an expert in trapping, and he can truthfully say that he
+found more enjoyment and had better success with these than with any
+other kinds of traps he employed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+They are generally set in thickets or woods where either rabbits
+or partridges are known to abound. Having arrived at his chosen
+trapping ground, the young trapper should first select some slender,
+elastic sapling; that of the hickory is the best, and is generally
+to be found in open woods--if not, some other kind will answer very
+well. It should be about five or six feet in length, (trimmed of
+its branches,) and in diameter need be no larger than an axe-handle
+or a broom-stick. When this is decided, some spot about five feet
+distant from the sapling should then be selected. The hatchet and
+knife will now come into excellent use, in cutting the sticks for
+the little inclosure shown
+[Page 45]
+in our drawing. This should be about eight or ten inches in diameter,
+and of about the same height. The sticks should be driven into
+the ground in a circle, leaving an open space of about six inches
+on one side. A stout switch as large as a man's little finger,
+and nearly two feet long, should then be cut and nicely sharpened
+at both ends. This should then be driven into the ground in the
+form of an arch, at the opening of the inclosure.
+
+We will now ask our readers to turn their attention to the next
+illustration, in order to understand what is to follow. This picture
+shows the method of setting the trap.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+After the arch is firmly fixed in its place, a short piece of stick
+should be cut, of a length corresponding to the height of the arch.
+To the middle of this stick the bait should be attached, being
+either tied to it or stuck on a plug driven into the stick, the
+latter being sharpened on one end. Next proceed to cut another
+stick, of about six inches in length; let this be flattened on
+one end. The wire noose should then be fastened to the opposite
+end. The noose in this case should be large enough to fill the
+opening of the arch. We will now go back to the sapling again.
+It should be bent down slightly, and a piece of the strong twine
+should be tied to its tip. Taking hold of the string, proceed to
+bend down the end of the sapling, in the direction of the inclosure,
+until it draws with a force strong enough to lift a rabbit if he
+were tied to the end of it. Thus holding it down with the string
+against the front of the inclosure, cut off the twine at the place
+where it crosses the top of the arch, as this will be the required
+length. It is now necessary to tie the end of this string to the
+same piece of wood and at the same place to which the noose was
+tied. When this is done the trap may be set as shown in the cut.
+The spring sapling should be bent as seen in the first illustration.
+The piece of wood holding the noose should be passed beneath the
+top of the arch, as far as it will go, with its long end pointing
+inside the inclosure. By now supporting the inside end with the
+bait stick, and carefully adjusting the noose so as to completely
+fill the arch, the trap will be set.
+
+[Page 46]
+In order to reach the bait, the rabbit or bird _must_ necessarily
+pass its head through the noose, after which, if the bait be scarcely
+_touched_, the animal's doom is sealed, and he is lifted into the
+air, generally suffering almost instant death. It is well known
+that in the case of a rabbit the neck is broken by a very slight
+blow, a strong snap of the finger being often sufficient. It is
+therefore safe to conclude that when thus suddenly caught and lifted
+by the noose, death must occur almost instantaneously from the
+same cause.
+
+It is not really necessary to success that the force of the sapling
+should be strong enough to lift the rabbit from the ground, as a
+mere strong tightening of the noose would be sufficient to cause
+strangulation and death. But we recommend the former method as
+being less painful and more rapid in its effects.
+
+If the young trapper should experience any difficulty in finding
+saplings of the right size, in the locality where he desires to
+set his traps, the difficulty may be easily mended by cutting the
+poles elsewhere, and carrying them to his trapping-ground, this
+answering the purpose equally well. They should be sharpened nicely
+on the large end, and firmly stuck into ground. The "Twitch-up"
+may be used for the capture of all varieties of game, and when
+set with the noose in the opening of a hollow tree, a stray coon
+will occasionally be entrapped.
+
+The next figure represents another method of constructing this
+trap, The picture explains itself. Instead of the arch, two notched
+sticks are driven into the ground, one on each side of the opening
+of the pen, The other piece should be of the shape shown in the
+figure, made either in one piece or in two pieces fastened together.
+They may all be constructed from twigs in the woods. Let the noose
+and draw-string now be fastened to the middle of the cross piece,
+and when set it will appear as in our figure. It will easily be
+seen that a slight pull on the bait will turn the cross piece from
+beneath the notches, and allow it to fly into the air.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 2]
+
+In our next instance the same principle is employed. The
+[Page 47]
+notched pegs are here driven in the back part of the pen, about
+five inches apart, with their notches towards the front. A forked
+bait stick of the shape shown is then procured. The draw-string
+should be attached near the end furthest from the fork. By now
+inserting the ends lightly beneath the notches in the pegs, at
+the same time letting the bait incline near the ground, the trap
+will be set on a very slight lift, as the bait will dislodge the
+pieces. Of course the noose must be arranged in the opening of the
+pen, as in the previous varieties. The bait stick in both cases
+should be set cautiously beneath the notches, as shown at (_a_),
+so that the slightest turn will cause it to roll out of position.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 3]
+
+A fourth method of snaring is shown in our next figure. In this
+instance the original arch is used, or else some circular opening
+constructed in the front of the pen. Inside, at the back part of
+the inclosure, a smaller arch is placed. Two sticks are then to
+be made similar to those mentioned in our first example of the
+"Twitch-up." Let the draw-string be tied to the end of one of these
+sticks; after which it should be passed under the inside arch, being
+brought out in front of it, and there supported by the bait-stick,
+as seen in our illustration. The noose should then be attached
+to the draw-string above the pen, and afterward brought down and
+arranged in front of the opening. The trap is then set, and will
+be found on trial to work admirably.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 4]
+
+One of the simplest as well as _surest_ of "Twitch-up" traps forms
+the subject of our next illustration. Like the foregoing varieties
+it is of course to be surrounded by its pen, and supplied with a
+circular opening or arch at one side, in which to hang the noose.
+It is constructed of three twigs. A simple crotch (_a_) should be
+firmly inserted in the ground at
+[Page 48]
+the back part of the pen; (_b_) the bait stick, consists of a straight
+twig, five or six inches in length, and should be attached to the
+draw-string at about half an inch from the large end; (_c_) is
+another forked stick with unequal arms, the long one being driven
+into the ground near the opening of the pen and a little to one side,
+letting the remaining arm point directly towards the crotch-stick
+at the back of the pen. The noose having been attached to the
+draw-string, the trap may now be set. Lower the bait stick and pass
+the large end under the crotch at the back of the pen, catching
+the baited end underneath the tip of the forked stick near the
+pen's opening. Arrange the noose in front of the entrance, and
+the thing is done. A mere touch on the bait will suffice to throw
+the pieces asunder. It is an excellent plan to sharpen the point
+of the forked stick (_c_) where it comes in contact with the bait
+stick, in order to make the bearing more slight, and consequently
+more easily thrown from its balance.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 5]
+
+
+THE POACHER'S' SNARE.
+
+Our next example represents one of the oldest and best snares in
+existence,--simple in construction, and almost infallible in its
+operations. It is the one in most common use among the poachers of
+England, hence its name. The pieces are three in number, and may
+be cut from pine wood, affording easy and profitable employment
+for the jack-knife during odd hours and rainy days, when time hangs
+heavily.
+
+The pieces are so simple in form and easy of construction that a
+sufficient number for fifty traps might be whittled in less than two
+hours, by any smart boy, who is at all "handy" with his jack-knife.
+
+If a few good broad shingles can be found, the work is even much
+easier,--mere splitting and notching being then all that is necessary.
+The bait stick should be about eight inches long, pointed at one
+end, and supplied with a notch in the other at about half an inch
+[Page 49]
+from the tip. The upright stick should be considerably shorter than
+the bait stick, and have a length of about ten inches, one end being
+nicely pointed, and the broad side of the other extremity supplied
+with a notch similar to the bait stick. About four inches from the
+blunt end, and on the narrow side of the stick, a square notch should
+be cut, sufficiently large to admit the bait stick loosely. The catch
+piece now remains. This should be about two and a-half inches in
+width, and bevelled off at each end into a flat edge. The shapes of
+the different pieces, together with their setting, will be readily
+understood by a look at our illustration.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A hundred of these pieces will make a small bundle, and may be easily
+carried by the young trapper, together with his other necessaries,
+as he starts off into the woods. He will thus be supplied with parts
+for thirty-three traps, all ready to be set, only requiring the
+stakes for the pens, which may be easily cut in the woods. Having
+selected a flexible sapling about five feet in length, and having
+stripped it of its branches, proceed to adjust the pieces. Take one
+of the upright sticks, and insert it firmly in the ground, with
+its upper notch facing the sapling, and at about four feet distant
+from it. Bend down the "springer," and by its force determine the
+required length for the draw-string attaching one end to the tip
+of the sapling, and the other near the end of a catch piece, the
+latter having its bevelled side uppermost. The wire noose should
+then be attached to the draw-string about six inches above the
+catch-piece. The pen should now be constructed as previously directed.
+Its entrance should be on the side _furthest_ from the springer,
+and should be so built as that the peg in the ground shall be at
+the back part of the enclosure. The pen being finished, the trap
+may be set.
+
+Insert the bait stick with bait attached into the square notch in
+the side of the upright peg; or, if desired, it may be adjusted by
+a pivot or nail through both sticks, as seen in our illustration,
+always letting the baited end project toward the
+[Page 50]
+opening. Draw down the catch piece, and fit its ends into the notches
+in the back of the upright peg and extremity of the bait-stick.
+By now pulling the latter slightly, and gently withdrawing the
+hand, the pieces will hold themselves together, only awaiting a
+lift at the bait to dislodge them. Adjust the wire loop at the
+opening of the pen, and you may leave the trap with the utmost
+confidence in its ability to take care of itself, and any unlucky
+intruder who tries to steal its property.
+
+Most of the snares which we shall describe are constructed from
+rough twigs, as these are always to be found in the woods, and
+with a little practice are easily cut and shaped into the desired
+forms. If desired, however, many of them may be whittled from pine
+wood like the foregoing, and the pieces carried in a bundle, ready
+for immediate use. In either case, whether made from the rough
+twigs or seasoned wood, it is a good plan to have them already
+prepared, and thus save time at the trapping ground when time is
+more valuable.
+
+
+THE PORTABLE SNARE.
+
+This is simply a modification of the snare just described, but
+possesses decided advantages over it in many respects. In the first
+place, it requires little or no protection in the shape of an enclosure.
+It can be set in trees or in swamps, or in short in _any_ place
+where an upright elastic branch can be found or adjusted. Like
+the foregoing, it is to be commended for its portability, fifty
+or sixty of the pieces making but a small parcel, and furnishing
+material for a score of traps. We call it the "portable snare"
+partly in order to distinguish it from the one just described,
+but chiefly because this particular variety is generally called
+by that name in countries where it is most used.
+
+It is composed of three pieces, all to be cut from a shingle or thin
+board. Let the first be about eight inches long, and three-quarters
+of an inch in width. This is for the upright. An oblong mortise
+should be cut through this piece, one inch in length, and beginning
+at about an inch from the end of the stick. Three inches from the
+other end, and on one of the broad sides of the stick, a notch
+should be made, corresponding in shape to that shown in our
+illustration. The bait stick should be four or five inches long,
+one end fitting easily into the mortise, where it should be secured
+[Page 51]
+by a wire or smooth nail driven through so as to form a hinge, on
+which it will work easily. On the upper side of this stick, and two
+inches distant from the pivot, a notch should be cut, similar to that
+in the upright. The catch piece should be about two inches in length,
+and bevelled off to a fiat edge at each end. This completes the pieces.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+To set the trap, it is only necessary to find some stout sapling,
+after which the upright stick may be attached to it close to the
+ground, by the aid of two pieces of stout iron wire, twisted firmly
+around both. It is well to cut slight grooves at each end of the
+upright for the reception of the wires, in order to prevent slipping.
+Tie a strong piece of twine around one
+[Page 52]
+end of the catch piece, knotting it on the beveled side. Cut the
+string about two feet in length, and attach the other end to the
+tip of the sapling. Adjust the bait stick on its pivot. By now
+lowering the catch piece, and lodging the knotted end beneath the
+notch in the upright and the other end in the notch on the bait
+stick, the pieces will appear as in our drawing. Care should be
+taken to set the catch pieces as slightly as possible in the notches,
+in order to insure sensitiveness. At about four inches from the
+catch piece, the wire noose should be attached and arranged in a
+circle directly around the bait. By now backing up the trap with
+a few sticks to prevent the bait from being approached from behind,
+the thing is complete, and woe to the misguided creature that dares
+to test its efficacy. By adjusting the drawstring so far as the
+upper end of the catch piece, the leverage on the bait stick is
+so slight as to require a mere touch to overcome it; and we may
+safely say that, when this trap is once baited, it will stay baited,
+so far as animal intruders are concerned, as we never yet have
+seen a rabbit or bird skilful enough to remove the tempting morsel
+before being summarily dealt with by the noose on guard duty.
+
+For portability, however, the following has no equal.
+
+
+THE "SIMPLEST" SNARE.
+
+This is one of the most ingenious and effective devices used in
+the art of trapping; and the principle is so simple and universal
+in its application to traps in general as to become a matter of
+great value to all who are at all interested in the subject. There
+is scarcely a trap of any kind which could not be set with the
+knotted string and bait stick, at the expense of a little thought
+and ingenuity. The principle is easily understood by a look at
+our engraving, which probably represents the _simplest_ twitch-up
+it is possible to construct. A stout wooden peg, having a hole the
+size of a lead pencil near the top, is driven firmly into the
+[Page 53]
+ground. The "knot" is made on the end of the raw-string, and passed
+through the hole in the peg from behind, being secured in place
+by the insertion of the bait stick in front. The latter should be
+about four inches long, and should be inserted very lightly,--merely
+enough to prevent the knot from slipping back. The noose should be
+fastened to the draw-string six or seven inches from the knot,
+and arranged in front of the bait at the opening of the pen, which
+should be constructed as previously directed. The peg should be
+about six inches long and the hole should be made with a 1-3 inch
+auger. Dozens of these pegs may be carried without inconvenience,
+and utilized in the same number of snares, in a very short time.
+We have already described the so-called "portable snare;" but, for
+portability, there is no noose-trap to be compared with the above.
+We give also a few other applications of the same principle.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 1]
+
+In the second example, a horizontal stick is used instead of the
+peg, the hole being made in its centre. Its ends are caught in
+notches in opposite sticks at the back part of the pen, and the
+noose arranged at the opening.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 2]
+
+Again, by a third method (see engraving next page), these notched
+sticks may be driven into the ground first, and a row of twigs
+continued on them on both sides, thus leaving a passageway between
+as represented in the illustration. A noose may then be set at
+each opening, with the bait in the middle; so that, at whichever
+side it is approached, the result is the same, besides affording
+a chance of securing two birds at the same time.
+
+
+THE QUAIL SNARE.
+
+That quails are sociable in their habits, and that they run together
+in broods in search of their food, is a fact well known
+[Page 54]
+to all sportsmen. A most excellent opportunity is thus afforded
+the hunter to secure several at one shot, and the same advantage
+may be gained by the trapper by specially arranging for it. For
+this purpose there is no invention more desirable or effective than
+the snare we next illustrate; and on account of the companionable
+habits of the quail, it is just as sure to catch six birds as one.
+The principle on which the trap works, is the same as in the three
+foregoing.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 3]
+
+Two notched pegs are first driven into the ground, about four inches
+apart, and the flat stick with the hole in the centre caught beneath
+these summits, as just described. It should be firmly secured;
+several nooses are next to be attached to the drawstring, and the
+trap set as already directed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The best bait consists of a "nub" of pop-corn, firmly impaled on
+the spindle, together with a few loose grains scattered on the ground
+right beneath it. The nooses should be arranged around the bait so
+as to touch or overlap each other, and the bait stick introduced
+into the hole a little more firmly than when set with one noose. The
+quail on reaching the trap all rush for the corn on the ground,
+and thus fill nearly if not all the nooses. When the supply here
+is exhausted, then united attacks are directed towards the "nub"
+on the bait stick, which soon becomes loosened: the knot is thus
+released and each noose will probably launch a victim in mid-air.
+This invention is original with the author of this work, so far
+as he knows; and it will be found the simplest as well as most
+effective quail snare in existence. Pop-corn is mentioned as bait
+partly on account of its being a favorite food with the quail;
+but particularly because the _pecking_ which it necessitates
+[Page 55]
+in order to remove the grains from the cob, is sure to spring the
+trap. If pop corn cannot be had, common Indian corn will answer
+very well. Oats or buckwheat may also be used, as the ground bait,
+if desired.
+
+
+THE BOX SNARE.
+
+This is a most unique device, and will well repay anyone who may
+desire to test its merits. It may be set for a rabbits, coon, or
+feathered game, of course varying the size of the box accordingly. For
+ordinary purposes, it should be seven or eight inches square, leaving
+one end open. Place it in the position shown in the illustration
+and proceed to bore an auger hole in the top board, one and a half
+inches from the back edge.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is for the reception of the bait stick. Directly opposite
+to this and an inch from the front edge of the board a notched
+peg should be inserted. A gimlet hole should now be bored on a
+line between the auger hole and notched peg, and half an inch from
+the latter. A small stout screw eye should next be inserted at
+the rear edge of the board, and another one fastened to the back
+board, two inches from the bottom. With these simple preparations
+the box is complete. The bait stick should be about five or six
+inches long and supplied with a notch at the upper end. It should be
+of such a size as to pass easily into the auger hole, and provided
+with a peg inserted through it at about an inch and a half from
+the notched end, as shown in our illustration at (_a_). The object
+of this peg is to prevent the bait stick from being drawn entirely
+[Page 56]
+through the hole by the force of the pull from above. The catch piece
+should be only long enough to secure its ends beneath the notches in
+the peg at the top of the box and the projecting bait stick. It should
+be bevelled off at the tips as in the instances previously described,
+and attached to a piece of sucker wire, the point of attachment being
+at about an inch from the end of the stick. The wire should be about
+two and a half feet in length, the catch piece being fastened at about
+six inches from one end. To set this neat little invention it is
+first necessary to procure a strong and elastic switch about four
+feet in length, sharpen it slightly at the large end and insert
+it firmly in the screw eye at the back of the box, securing it in
+place at the top by strings through the screw eye at that place. By
+now attaching the short end of the wire to the tip of the sapling,
+inserting the bait stick from the inside of the box, and securing the
+catch piece in the notches, the other pieces will be in equilibrium,
+and the only remaining thing to be done is to pass the long end
+of the wire through the gimlet hole, and form it into a slipping
+noose which shall completely fill the opening of the box. In order
+to reach the bait the animal must pass his head through the noose,
+and it can be easily seen that the slightest pull on that tempting
+morsel will release the catch piece and tighten the wire around
+the neck of the intruder. Where the trap is small and the captured
+animal is large, it will sometimes happen that the box will be
+carried a distance of several feet before overpowering its victim;
+but it is sure to do it in the end if the spring powers of the
+sapling are strong and it is firmly secured to the box. If desired,
+the box may be tied to a neighboring stone or tree to prevent any
+such capers; but it will generally be found unnecessary, and a few
+minutes' search will always reveal it with its unlucky captive.
+
+We have described the box with its spring attached; but this is not
+a requisite, as it may be used with growing sapling when required.
+
+The same trap may be constructed of a pasteboard box and whalebone,
+for the capture of small birds, and used with good success. The
+size we have mentioned is adaptable for rabbits and animals of
+the same size, but is really larger than necessary for feathered
+game.
+
+
+THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.
+
+This is another embodiment of the same principle which has already
+been described, viz.--the knotted string. By many it
+[Page 57]
+is considered an improvement on the box snare just mentioned, owing
+to the possibility of its taking two victims at the same time. It
+may be set for rabbits, mink, or muskrat, and will be found very
+efficient.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It consists of a box about eight inches square, one foot in length,
+and open at both ends. In the centre of the top board a hole of the
+diameter of a lead pencil should be bored, and a smaller aperture
+also made in the middle of each end near the edge as seen in the
+accompanying engraving. The spring is next required. This should
+consist of an elastic switch or small pole, three or more feet
+in length. It should be inserted in a slanting auger hole, made
+through the middle of one of the side boards near the bottom at
+the angle shown at (_a_). Should the switch fit loosely it may be
+easily tightened by a small wedge driven in beside it. The bait
+stick (_b_) should be about four inches in length, and large enough
+to fit easily into the hole in the centre of the top board. Next
+procure a stout bit of cord about eight inches in length. Tie one
+[Page 58]
+end to the tip of the switch and provide the other with a large
+double knot. A second knot should then be made, about an inch and
+a half above the first. A piece of sucker wire is the next necessity.
+Its length should be about five feet, and its centre should be tied
+over the uppermost knot in the string. If the bait is now in readiness,
+the trap may be set. Bend down the switch until the end knot will pass
+through the hole in the centre of the board. When it appears in the
+inside of the box, it should then be secured by the insertion of the
+top of the bait stick, as shown at (_b_). This insertion need be only
+very slight, a sixteenth of an inch being all that is sufficient
+to prevent the knot from slipping back. The spring is thus held
+in the position seen in the drawing, and the loose ends of the
+sucker wire should then be passed downward through the small holes
+and arranged in nooses at both openings of the box. Our trap is
+now set, and the unlucky creature which attempts to move that bait
+from either approach, will bring its career to an untimely end.
+The bait stick may be so delicately adjusted as to need only the
+slightest touch to dislodge it. Such a fine setting is to be guarded
+against, however, being as likely to be sprung by a mouse as by
+a larger animal. The setting is easily regulated, being entirely
+dependent upon the slight or firm insertion of the bait stick.
+Among all the "modi operandi" in the construction of traps, there
+is scarcely one more simple than the principle embodied in this
+variety, and there is none more effective.
+
+The box snare already described may be set by the same method,
+and indeed the principle may be applied to almost any trap, from
+the simplest snare described on page (52) to the largest dead-fall.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+GROUND SNARES.
+
+THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is the variety of snare which has been in very common use
+for ages, and has always been the one solitary example of a noose
+trap which our "boys' books" have invariably pounced upon for
+illustration. For the capture of small birds it works very nicely;
+and as without it our list of traps would be incomplete, we will
+give an illustration of it as it appears when
+[Page 59]
+set and ready for its work. In constructing the affair it is first
+necessary to cut a flexible twig of willow or bramble about eighteen
+inches in length, and form it into a loop as seen at (_a_), securing
+the tips by a few circuits of string, and allowing the larger end
+to project an inch or more beyond the other. This loop, which is
+called the "spreader," should now be laid down flat; and on the
+upper side of the large end and about an inch from its tip, a notch
+should be cut as our illustration shows. The spring should next be
+procured, and should consist of a pliant, elastic switch, about
+four feet in length. A piece of fish line about two feet long,
+should now be fastened to the tip of the switch, and the loose
+end of the cord attached to a catch piece of the shape shown at
+(_b_). This catch may be about an inch and a half long, and should
+be whittled off to an edge on one end, the string being attached at
+about its centre. A slipping noose, made from strong horse hair,
+or piece of fine wire about two feet long, should now be fastened
+to the string about two inches above the catch. Having the switch
+thus prepared, it is ready to be inserted in the ground at the place
+selected for the trap. When this is done, another small flexible
+twig about a foot in length should cut, and being sharpened at
+both ends, should be inserted in the ground in the form of an arch
+(_c_), at about three feet distant from the spring, and having its
+broad side toward it. Insert the notch of the spreader exactly
+under the top of the arc, and note the spot where the curved end
+of the former touches the ground. At this point a peg (_d_) should
+be driven leaving a projecting portion of about two inches. The
+[Page 60]
+pieces are now ready to be adjusted. Pass the curved end of the
+spreader over the peg, bringing the notched end beneath the arc with
+the notch uppermost. Draw down the catch piece, and pass it beneath
+the arc from the opposite side letting the bevelled end catch in the
+notch in the spreader, the other end resting against the upper part
+of the arc. Arrange the slipping noose over the spreader as our
+drawing indicates, bringing it _inside_ the peg, as there shown, as
+otherwise it would catch upon it when the snare is sprung. Strew the
+bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or the like, _inside_ the
+spreader, and all is ready. Presently a little bird is seen to settle
+on the ground in the neighborhood of the trap; he spies the bait and
+hopping towards it, gradually makes bold enough to alight upon the
+spreader, which by his weight immediately falls, the catch is released,
+the switch flies up, and the unlucky bird dangles in the air by the
+legs. If the trapper is near he can easily release the struggling
+creature before it is at all injured, otherwise it will flutter
+itself into a speedy death.
+
+
+THE IMPROVED SPRINGLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The accompanying cut illustrates an improvement on the last mentioned
+trap, whereby it can be used for the capture of larger game, and
+with most excellent success. In place of the "spreader" a crotched
+stick is used, the crotch of which catches around the peg, the other
+end being supplied with a notch as in the case of the spreader.
+On the upper side of this stick a small pasteboard platform is
+tacked, over which and beneath which the bait is thrown. Instead
+of the arc, a stout crotch stick is substituted. The noose should
+be at least ten inches in diameter and constructed of sucker wire.
+It should be arranged on the ground around the bait and inside
+of the peg. When the snare is set, the crotched end of the bait
+stick will thus rest near the earth, the notched end only being
+lifted in order to reach the catch piece. It is well to insert
+a few small sticks inside the edge of the noose in order to keep
+it in correct position. If properly set, the quail or partridge
+[Page 61]
+in approaching the trap will have to step _inside_ the noose in order
+to reach the bait, and while thus regaling itself with a choice meal
+of oats, berries, or other delicacies, will be sure to press upon the
+bait stick either by pecking, or treading upon it, and will thus set
+the catch piece free, only to find itself secured by a grasp from
+which he will never escape alive. This is a very effectual snare;
+but on account of its securing its victim by the legs and thus
+torturing them to death, it is to be deprecated. We would recommend
+in preference, those varieties already described as being fully as
+successful, and far less cruel. They effect almost instant death,
+either by broken necks or strangulation, and are in this regard
+among the most humane traps on record.
+
+
+THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+For simplicity in construction there are few snare traps which
+can compare with this variety, although it is somewhat similar
+to those last mentioned, and like them, catches by the feet. The
+trap consists of three pieces. A catch piece about three inches
+long, a bait stick of about six inches, and a stout crotch of the
+proportionate size shown in our illustration, a glance at which
+will make the setting too clear to need description. Be careful
+that the bait stick is set _fine_ and rests _just beneath_ the
+_tip_ of the catch-piece so that a mere touch on the bait will
+release it. Arrange the noose as in the instance last described,
+and bait either as therein directed or with an apple or nubbin
+of corn, as our accompanying cut indicates. Always remembering
+that the noose should be sufficiently large to require the birds
+to step _inside_ of it in order to reach the bait.
+
+
+THE PLATFORM SNARE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This odd invention will be found to work capitally as a game trap,
+and the only extra requisite necessary consists of a slab or light
+board about seven inches wide, and a foot in length. Having selected
+the spot for the trap, proceed to cut a stiff
+[Page 62]
+switch about five feet in length, and having sharpened the larger
+end to a nice point, insert it firmly into the ground in a slanting
+direction as our drawing illustrates. Next bend down the tip of
+the sapling, and resting one end of the board on the ground, catch
+the tip of the switch against the other end, as our illustration
+also shows. A little experimenting will soon determine the right
+place for the board, after which two pegs should be driven in the
+ground at its edge to hold it against the pressure on the opposite
+end. This being done fasten a wire noose to the tip of the switch,
+after which the pen is the only thing required. This should be
+built of simple little twigs arranged around three sides of the
+board, leaving the front end open. To set the snare, lower the
+switch and raising the board slightly at the back end, catch the
+tip of the springer behind it, afterwards arranging the noose over
+the platform, and scattering the bait inside. If the trap has been
+constructed properly and set "fine" it will take but a very slight
+weight on the platform to lower it from its bearing, the weight of
+an ordinary bird being sufficient, and the springer thus released
+will fly forward either catching its victim by the neck or legs,
+as the case may be. It may sometimes be found necessary to cut
+a slight notch in the end of the springer to receive the board,
+but in every case it should be tried several times in order to
+be sure that it works sensitively.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 63]
+[Illustration: TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME]
+
+[Page 65]
+BOOK III.
+
+TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.
+
+[Illustration: A]mong the following will be found the various net
+and cage traps commonly used in the capture of winged game, besides
+several other unique devices in the shape of box traps, etc., many
+of which are original with the author of this work and appear in
+the present volume for the first time in book form. Commonest among
+bird-catching machines, is the well known invention of
+
+
+THE SIEVE TRAP.
+
+This device certainly possesses one great advantage:--_it is not
+complicated_. Any one possessed of a sieve and a piece of string
+can get up the trap at two minutes' notice, and provided he has
+patience, and can wait for his little bird, he is almost sure to
+be rewarded for his pains,--if he wait long enough. This of course
+depends upon circumstances: when the birds are plenty and are not
+shy, it is a common thing to secure three or four at once in a
+very few minutes, while at other times an hour's patient waiting
+is unrewarded.
+
+The trap consists only of a sieve tilted up on edge and thus propped
+in position by a slender stick. To this stick a string or thread is
+attached and the same carried to some near place of concealment,
+when the trapper may retire out of sight and watch for his "little
+bird." The ground beneath the sieve is strewn with bread crumbs,
+seed or other bait, and while the unsuspecting birds are enjoying
+their repast, the string is pulled and they are made prisoners.
+The sieve may be arranged with a spindle as described for the coop
+trap, page (68), and may thus be left to take care of itself. Where
+[Page 66]
+the birds are plenty and easily captured, the former method answers
+the purpose perfectly, but when tedious waiting is likely to ensue
+the self-acting trap is better.
+
+
+THE BRICK TRAP.
+
+This is a very old invention, and has always been one of the three
+or four stereotyped specimens of traps selected for publication in
+all Boys' Books. It is probably well known to most of our readers.
+
+Take four bricks, and arrange them on the ground, as seen in our
+engraving, letting them rest on their _narrow_ sides. If properly
+arranged, they should have a space between them, nearly as large
+as the broad surface of the brick. A small, forked twig of the
+shape shown in the separate drawing (_b_) having a small piece
+cut away from each side of the end, should then be procured. Next
+cut a slender stick, about four inches in length, bluntly pointed
+at each end. A small plug with a flat top should now be driven
+into the ground, inside the trap, about three inches from either
+of the end bricks and projecting about two inches from the ground.
+The trap is then ready to be set. Lay the flat end of the forked
+twig over the top of the plug, with the forks pointing forward,
+or toward the end of the enclosure nearest the plug. The pointed
+stick should then be adjusted, placing one end on the flat end of
+the fork, over the plug, and the other beneath the fifth brick,
+which should be rested upon it. The drawing (_b_) clearly shows
+the arrangement of the pieces. The bait, consisting of berries,
+bird-seed, or other similar substances should then be scattered
+on the ground on the inside of the enclosure. When the bird flies
+[Page 67]
+to the trap he will generally alight on the forked twig, which by
+his weight tilts to one side and dislodges the pieces, thus letting
+fall the sustained brick.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It is not intended to kill the bird, and when rightly constructed
+will capture it alive. Care is necessary in setting the topmost
+brick in such a position that it will fall aright, and completely
+cover the open space. This is a very simple and effectual little
+contrivance, and can be made with a _box_ instead of bricks, if
+desired. A piece of board may also be substituted for the top brick,
+and the enclosure beneath made larger by spreading the bricks further
+apart, thus making a more roomy dungeon for the captive bird.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+THE COOP TRAP.
+
+This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and large
+feathered game, and is used to a considerable extent by trappers
+throughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures its victims
+without harm and furnishes the additional advantage of good ventilation
+for the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary coop may be used in the
+construction of this trap, although the homely one we illustrate
+is most commonly employed on account of its simplicity and easy
+manufacture. It also does away with the troublesome necessity of
+carrying a coop to the trapping ground, as it can be made in a
+very few minutes with common rough hewn twigs by the clever use
+of the jack knife. The only remaining requisites consist of a few
+yards of very stout Indian twine, several small squares of brown
+pasteboard, a dozen tacks and a number of pieces of board five
+inches square, each one having a hole through its centre, as our
+engraving (_b_) indicates. Having these, the young trapper starts
+out with material sufficient for several coops, and if he is smart
+[Page 68]
+will find no difficulty in making and setting a dozen traps in a
+forenoon.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cut
+four stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen inches
+in length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knot
+come on the inside as our illustration (_a_) explains and leaving
+a loose length of about two feet of string from each corner. This
+forms the base of the coop. Next collect from a number of twigs of
+about the same thickness, and from them select two more corresponding
+in length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the base of the coop
+on the ground, and collected the strings inside proceed to lay
+the two selected sticks across the ends of the
+[Page 69]
+uppermost two of the square, and directly above the lower two.
+Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cut
+and laid across the ends of the last two, and directly above the
+second set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of equal
+size, one directly over the other. The next pair of sticks should
+be a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be placed a
+little inside the square. Let the next two be of the same size as
+the last and also rest a little inside of those beneath them, thus
+forming the commencement of the conical shape which our engraving
+presents. By thus continuing alternate layers of the two sticks
+cob-house fashion, each layer being closer than the one previous,
+the pyramid will be easily and quickly formed. After ten or a dozen
+sets have been laid in place, the arm should be introduced into
+the opening at the top, and the four cords drawn out, letting each
+one lay along its inside corner of the pyramid. Taking the strings
+loosely in the left hand and having the twigs in readiness, proceed
+to build up the sides until the opening at the top is reduced to
+only four or five inches across. The square board will now come
+into play. Pass the ends of the cords through the hole in its centre
+and rest the edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, taking
+care that it is the tip of the grain of the wood instead of its
+side, as otherwise it would be likely to crack from the pressure
+that is about to be brought upon it. Have ready a stout peg of
+hard wood, and laying it over the hole in the board, and between
+the strings, proceed to tie the latter as tightly as possible over
+it. By now turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightened
+and the various pieces of the coops will be drawn together with
+great firmness, in which state they may be secured by the aid of
+a tack driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shown
+at (_b_). Thus we have a neat and serviceable coop, which will
+last for many seasons. To _set_ the affair it is necessary to cut
+three sticks of the shapes shown in our illustration. The prop
+piece is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length from
+the tip to the base of the crotch. The spindle is another hooked
+twig of the same length: the bait piece is quite similar to the
+latter, only an inch shorter and supplied with a square notch at
+the tip. It is also slightly whittled off on the upper side to
+receive the square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold the bait
+and which may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of these
+twigs may be easily found in any thicket by a little practice in
+searching. In setting the trap, it is only necessary to raise up
+one side of the coop to the height of the prop stick, insert the
+[Page 70]
+short arm of the spindle through the fork and beneath the edge of
+the coop. While holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of the
+bait stick around the lower piece at the back of the coop, and
+pushing the end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the notch
+of the bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to be
+baited. The bait may consist of oats, wheat, "nannie berries" or the
+like, and should be strewn both on the platform and over the ground
+directly _beneath_ and around it. If properly set, a mere peck at the
+corn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the coop will fall
+over its captive. It is not an uncommon thing to find two or even
+three quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one fall, and after
+the first momentary fright is over, they seem to resign themselves
+to their fate and take to their confinement as naturally as if
+they had been brought up to it.
+
+The method of setting the coop trap above described is a great
+improvement on the old style of setting, and is an improvement
+original with the author of this work. In the old method a semi-circular
+hoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick above. The ends
+of the rattan are fastened to one of the lower back pieces of the
+coop, and the hoop is just large enough to fit inside the opening of
+the coop. This rattan rests just above the ground, and the spindle
+catches against its inside edge in place of the notch in the bait
+stick already described, the bait being scattered inside the hoop.
+When the bird approaches, it steps upon the rattan, and thus pressing
+it downward releases the spindle and the coop falls; but experience
+has shown the author that it does not always secure its intruders,
+but as often falls upon their backs and sends them off limping
+to regain their lost senses. By the author's improvement it will
+be seen that the whole body of the bird _must_ be _beneath_ the
+coop before the bait sticks can be reached and that when properly
+set it is absolutely certain to secure its victim. The author can
+recommend it as infallible, and he feels certain that anyone giving
+both methods a fair trial will discard the old method as worthless
+in comparison.
+
+
+THE BAT FOWLING NET.
+
+With English bird-catchers this contrivance is in common use, but
+so far as we know it has not been utilized to any great extent in
+this country. It is chiefly used at night by the aid of a lantern,
+and large numbers of sparrows and other birds are often secured.
+
+[Page 71]
+[Illustration]
+
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the net, which may be
+constructed as follows: Procure two light flexible poles, about
+eight feet in length; to the tip of each a cord should be attached,
+and the same secured to the middle of the pole, having drawn down
+the tip to the bend, shown in our engraving. The two bent ends
+should now be attached together by a hinge of leather. A piece
+of mosquito netting is next in order, and it should be of such
+a size as to cover the upper bent halves of the poles, as seen
+in the illustration--the bottom edge being turned up into a bag,
+about ten inches in depth. The contrivance is now complete, and is
+used as follows: Three persons are generally required, and a dark
+night is chosen. Hay stacks, evergreens, and thick bushes offer a
+favorite shelter to numerous small birds, and it is here that they
+are sought by the bird-hunters. A breezy night is preferable, as
+the birds perch low, and are not so easily startled by unusual
+sounds.
+
+Great caution, however, is used in the approach. One party holds
+the light, which is generally a _dark_ lantern, another takes the
+net, and the third arms himself with a switch with which to beat
+the bushes. The net is first held upright about a foot from the
+bush, and the light thrown upon the back of it. The bush is then
+moderately beaten, and the birds affrighted and bewildered fly against
+the net, which is instantly closed. The bird is thus captured, and
+when a full roost can be discovered a large number may be taken
+in a single night. The lantern should be closed while not in actual
+use, and everything should be done as quietly as possible. The
+dark lantern in itself is useful without the net. The light often
+so bewilders the bird that it flies directly in the face of the
+lantern and flutters to the ground, where it may be easily taken
+with the hand.
+
+
+[Page 72]
+THE CLAP NET.
+
+In Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, this trap is a common
+resource for the capture of wild birds of various kinds. It may be
+called a "decoy" trap, from the fact that "call birds" are generally
+used in connection with it. They are placed at distances around the
+trap, and attract the wild birds to the spot by their cries. These
+birds are especially trained for the purpose, but almost any tamed
+bird that chirps will attract its mates from the near neighborhood,
+and answer the purpose very well. Sometimes the "decoys" are entirely
+dispensed with, and the "bird whistle" used in their stead. This
+will be described hereafter, and inasmuch as the training of a
+"decoy" would be a rather difficult matter, we rather recommend
+the use of the bird whistle. The skill and absolute perfection of
+mimicry which is often attained by bird fanciers. with the use
+of this little whistle, is something surprising.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+No matter what the species of bird--whether crow, bobolink, thrush
+or sparrow, the song or call is so exactly imitated as to deceive
+the most experienced naturalist, and even various birds themselves.
+Of course this requires practice, but even a tyro may soon learn
+to use the whistle to good advantage.
+
+The clap net commonly used, is a large contrivance--so large that
+several hundred pigeons are often caught at once. It is "sprung"
+by the bird-hunter, who lies in ambush watching for the game. The
+net is generally constructed as follows, and may be made smaller
+if desired:--
+
+[Page 73]
+Procure two pieces of strong thread netting, each about fifteen
+feet in length, and five feet in width. Four wooden rods one inch
+in thickness and five feet in length are next required. These may
+be constructed of pine, ash, or any other light wood, and one should
+be securely whipped to each end of the netting.
+
+Now by the aid of a gimlet or a red-hot iron, the size of a slate
+pencil, bore a hole through one end of every piece one inch from
+the tip, taking care that the ends selected lay on the same side of
+the net. The other extremities of the four poles should be supplied,
+each with a large screw eye. Four pegs are next in order--one of
+which is shown separate at (_P_). It should be about eight inches
+in length, and three inches in width, and an inch in thickness, and
+sharpened to a point at one end. The other end should be supplied
+with a notch two inches in depth and of such a width as will easily
+secure the perforated end of one of the poles already described.
+By the use of the gimlet or a red-hot nail, a hole should now be
+bored through the side of every peg across the centre of the notch
+for the reception of a wire pin or smooth nail.
+
+The nets may now be rolled up on the poles, and the trapper may
+thus easily carry them to his selected trapping ground. This should
+be smooth and free from stones and irregularities. Unroll the nets
+and spread them flatly on the ground, as seen in the illustration.
+Let the perforated ends of the poles be innermost, and allow a
+space of six feet between the inner edges of the nets. Draw the
+net flatly on the ground, and drive one of the notched pegs at
+each of the inside corners, securing the poles into the slots by
+the aid of the wire pins or nails. Next cut four stakes eight or
+ten inches long. The places for these may be seen by a look at
+our engraving. Each one should be inserted _five feet_ distant
+from the notched peg, and _exactly_ on a line with the _inside_
+edge of the net--one for each corner. They should slant from the
+net in every case. To each one of these stakes a stay-rope should
+be secured, and the other end passed through the screw eye of the
+nearest pole, drawing the string tightly, so as to stretch the net
+perfectly square. Next, take a piece of cord, about twenty feet
+in length, and fasten it across the ends of the net into the screw
+eyes in the poles. This is the loop to which the draw-string is
+attached, and either end of the net may be chosen for this purpose.
+To this loop and a _little one side of the middle_, the draw-string
+should be fastened. If secured exactly in the middle of the loop,
+the two nets will _strike_ when the draw-rope is pulled, whereas
+[Page 74]
+when adjusted a little to one side, the nearest net will move a
+trifle faster than the other, and they will overlap neatly and without
+striking--completely covering the ground between them. When the
+trap is spread the draw-rope should extend to some near shelter
+where the bird-catcher may secrete himself from view. Spreading the
+bait on the ground between the nets, and arranging his call birds
+at the proper distances, he awaits his opportunity of springing
+his nets. At the proper minute, when the ground is dotted with his
+game, he pulls the draw-string, and the birds are secured.
+
+Immense numbers of wild fowl are often captured in this way.
+
+The "bird whistle," already alluded to, is often used with good
+effect, it being only sufficient to attract the birds to such a
+proximity to the net as will enable them to spy the bait, after
+which their capture is easily effected.
+
+
+THE BIRD WHISTLE.
+
+This instrument, also known as the prairie whistle, is clearly
+shown in our illustration. It is constructed as follows: First,
+procure a piece of morocco or thin leather. From it cut a circular
+piece one inch and a quarter in diameter. Through the centre of
+this disc, cut a round hole, one-third of an inch in diameter. A
+semi-circular piece of tin is next required. It should be of the
+shape of an arc, as seen in our illustration; its width across
+the ends being about three-quarters of an inch, and its entire
+length being pierced with a row of fine holes. Next procure a piece
+of thin sheet India rubber or gold beater's skin. Cut a strip about
+an inch in length by half an inch in width, and lay one of its long
+edges directly across the opening in the leather disc. Fold the
+leather in half (over the rubber), and draw the latter tightly. Next
+lay on the arc of tin in the position shown in the illustration, and
+by the aid of a fine needle and thread sew it through the holes,
+including both leather and rubber in the stitches. When this is
+done, the whistle is complete. If the gold beater's skin is not
+attainable, a good substitute may be found in the thin outer membrane
+of the leaf of a tough onion or leak, the pulp being scraped away.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 75]
+To use the whistle, place it against the roof of the mouth, tin
+side up, and with the edge of the rubber towards the front. When
+once wet, it will adhere to the roof of the mouth, and by skilful
+blowing, it can be made to send forth a most surprising variety
+of sounds. The quack of the duck and the song of the thrush may
+be made to follow each other in a single breath, and the squeal
+of a pig or the neigh of a horse are equally within its scope. In
+short, there is scarcely any animal, whether bird or quadruped,
+the cry of which may not be easily imitated by a skilful use of
+the prairie whistle, or, indeed, as it might with propriety be
+called, the "menagerie whistle."
+
+
+THE WILD GOOSE TRAP.
+
+In our northern cold regions, where the wild geese and ptarmigan
+flock in immense numbers, this trap is commonly utilized. It consists
+merely of a large net fifty feet in length, and fifteen in width,
+arranged on a framework, and propped in a slanting position by
+two poles, after the manner of the sieve trap. It is generally
+set on the ice; and the trapper, after attaching his strings to
+the props, and sprinkling his bait at the foot of the net, retires
+to a distance to await his chances. Tame geese are often used as
+decoys, and sometimes the bird whistle already described is used
+for the same purpose. For the capture of the ptarmigan, the bait
+consists of a heap of gravel. It is hard to imagine a less tempting
+allurement, but as the food of the birds during the winter is sapless
+and hard, it becomes necessary for them to swallow a considerable
+amount of gravel to promote digestion. The great depth of the snow
+renders this commodity very scarce during the winter season; and
+the Indians, taking advantage of this fact, succeed in capturing
+immense numbers of the game in nets by the use of that simple
+allurement. The gravel is packed on the surface of a pile of snow,
+placed under the centre of the net, and the draw-string is carried
+to some neighboring shrubbery or place of concealment, where the
+trapper can always get at it without being seen by the birds under
+the net.
+
+When everything is thus prepared, the hunters start out into the
+adjacent woods and willows, and drive their game toward the nets.
+This is generally an easy matter, and, no sooner do the birds come
+in sight of the heap of gravel, than they fly towards it _en masse_,
+and the ground beneath the net is soon covered with the hungry game.
+[Page 76]
+The hunter then goes to the end of the line, and, with a sudden pull,
+hauls down the stakes: the net fans over the birds, and they are
+prisoners.
+
+Hundreds of ptarmigan are often thus caught by a single sweep of
+the net. The trap is simply arranged, and may be constructed on
+a reduced scale for smaller birds, if desired.
+
+
+THE TRAP CAGE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Among bird-catchers generally, this is the favorite and most universal
+trap; and, where a _decoy_ bird is used, it is particularly successful.
+The cage is arranged in two compartments,
+[Page 77]
+one above the other,--the lower one being occupied by the call-birds.
+The making of the cage requires considerable ingenuity and much
+patience; and, for the benefit of those who may desire to exercise
+that patient ingenuity, we will subjoin a few hints, which may
+help them along in their efforts. For an ordinary cage, the height
+should be about one foot, the broad sides the same, and the top
+and other two sides eight inches. First cut four corner uprights.
+These should be three-quarters of an inch square, and one foot in
+length. Next cut a bottom board of pine, twelve inches by eight
+inches, and one inch in thickness. From each of its corners, cut a
+small cube of the wood, exactly three-quarters of an inch square,
+thus leaving four notches, which will exactly receive the ends of
+the uprights, as seen at (_a_). Before adjusting these pieces,
+the four sides of the boards should be pierced with small holes,
+as is also shown in the diagram (_a_). These may be punched with a
+brad-awl, and should be about half an inch apart, and three-eighths
+of an inch from the edge of the board. Each one of the uprights
+may then be secured in place by two long brads, one being hammered
+each way into each side of the notch. Next proceed to cut four more
+of the square sticks. Two of these should be one foot in length,
+and the remaining two eight inches. The corners of these should
+now be neatly bevelled off, so as to fit after the manner of a
+picture-frame. They should then be attached to
+[Page 78]
+the upper ends of the uprights by a brad through the corner of
+each, as seen at (_b_), the dotted lines indicating the end of
+the upright beneath. These sticks should likewise be pierced with
+holes to correspond with those in the bottom board, and running
+up and down in the direction of the wires.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The middle tier of braces are next required. Two of these should be
+ten and a half inches in length, and the other two six and a-half,
+and the ends should be perfectly smooth. These should now be punched
+with holes corresponding with those above, after which they may
+be inserted between the uprights as seen in the engraving, and
+secured by a brad at each end.
+
+The trap door is shown separate at (_c_). The side sticks should
+be eight inches in length, and one-half an inch square, and the
+top and bottom sticks five inches in length. They should be set
+in _between_ the side sticks, and the lower one should be secured
+about half an inch above the lower ends of the uprights, as seen
+in the illustration. The holes should be made in the side pieces,
+and the wire run across from side to side, as shown. Annealed iron,
+or copper wire is best for this purpose. The door should now be
+pivoted or hinged at the top of the cage, between the long sides,
+in such a position as that the top end shall rest on one of the
+narrow upper edges of the cage. A stiff wire should be used for
+the hinge, being passed through the top pieces of the cage into the
+lower ends of the door pieces. The cage may now be wired throughout.
+This is an easy matter, if the holes are properly made. About thirty
+yards of the wire will be required: iron wire is generally used.
+It should be about the size of a hair-pin, and should work easily.
+Commence by passing it from the under side of the bottom board
+through one of the holes next to the corner. Pass the wire upward,
+through the centre braces, again upward through the top piece and
+across to the opposite broad side and corresponding hole. From
+this point it should pass downwards, through centre brace, and
+again through the bottom. Draw the wire tightly and passing it
+upward through the hole next to it, bring it over the top of the
+cage and around again to the bottom edge from which it started.
+Continue thus until the hinge of the door is reached; after which
+the wire should be passed up and down on the same side and thus
+carried around the small end of the cage until it finally meets
+at the door hinge on the opposite side. The two halves of the cage
+should now be separated by a grating of wire, as seen in the main
+[Page 79]
+illustration. This may be accomplished either by passing the wire
+from side to side, around the base of each upright wire, or an
+additional horizontal row of holes below the others may be punched
+for the purpose. The door through which the call-bird is introduced
+should next be made in the bottom section. There are two ways of
+doing this: one method consists in sawing a hole three inches square
+in the bottom board of the cage; and a cover consisting of a piece
+of tin is made to slide beneath the heads of four tacks, two of which
+are placed on each side of the opening. This form of door is perhaps
+the simplest of the two. The other is shown separate at (_f_),
+together with its mode of attachment.
+
+It consists of two side pieces of wood, about a third of an inch
+square, and three inches in length, and two shorter ones, two inches
+in length. These are arranged into a square framework by a board
+in each corner. Four holes are to be pierced in each side piece,
+at equal distances. Commencing at the top, the door should then
+be wired as directed for the cage. The lowest hole on each side
+should be left open for a separate piece of wire. The cage should
+now receive attention. The broad side is generally selected for
+the door. Find the seven centre wires and connect them across the
+middle by another horizontal bit of wire. This may be easily done
+with a pair of pincers, by compressing a loop at each end of the
+wire around the two which run perpendicularly at its ends. When this
+is performed the five intermediate wires should be cut off about
+a quarter of an inch below the horizontal wire, and the projecting
+tips looped back over the cross piece, and made fast by the pincers.
+The lower parts of the upright wires may now be cut off close to the
+board. We will now take up the door. Pass a piece of wire through
+the holes at the bottom, clap the door over the opening, and loop
+the ends of the projecting wire loosely around the upright wires
+at each side. This will allow the door to slide easily up and down.
+Another wire should now be interlaced downwards through the centre
+of the door, and bent into a ring at the top. Let the door rest
+on the bottom of the cage, and, while in this position, adjust
+the ring at the top around the central wire directly behind it.
+The door is then complete, and, if properly made, will look neat
+and work easily.
+
+The "trap" at the top of the cage is next in order. To complete
+this it is first necessary to interweave a _stiff_ wire loop, as
+seen at (_d_). The loop should extend on the _inside_ of the lower
+piece of the door and about two inches below it. The
+[Page 80]
+_spring_ power consists of a piece of stiff hoop-skirt wire, interwoven
+between the wires of the top of the cage, and those of the door,
+while the latter is shut. The force of this will be sufficient
+to bring down the door with a snap; and for further security a
+catch, such as is described in page (88), may be added if desired.
+
+The spindle is next required. This is shown at (_g_), and consists
+of a small perch of wood seven inches in length, and notched at
+each end. In setting the trap, the door should be raised as seen
+in the main illustration. One of the notches in the spindle should
+now be caught beneath the loop and the other around one of the
+central wires in the end of the cage. The bait, consisting of a
+berry, bird-seed, or what-not, may be either fastened to the spindle
+or placed beneath on the wires. The call-bird having been introduced,
+the trap may now be left to itself. If the call-bird is well trained
+it will not be many minutes before the birds of the neighborhood will
+be attracted to the spot by its cries. Ere long one less cautious
+than the rest will be seen to perch upon the top of the cage. He
+soon discovers the bait, and alighting upon the perch, throws it
+asunder, and in an instant the trap door closes over its captive.
+The cage is sometimes constructed double, having two compartments
+beneath for call-birds, and two traps above, in general resembling
+two of the single traps placed side by side. The decoy bird is not
+an absolute necessity to the success of the trap. Many birds are
+caught simply by the bait alone. The trap cage, when constructed
+on a larger scale, is often successfully employed in the capture
+of the owl. In this case it is baited with a live mouse or bird,
+and set during the evening in a conspicuous place. A trap working
+on this principle, being especially adapted to the capture of the
+owl, will be noticed hereafter.
+
+
+THE SPRING NET TRAP.
+
+Although slightly complicated in construction, our next illustration
+presents one of the prettiest bird traps on record, and may be
+made in the following manner, and by frequently referring to the
+picture, our explanation will be easily understood.
+
+The first step is to make or procure a low flat box, about fifteen
+inches long, by ten inches in width, with a depth of about two
+inches. Next fasten an interior box, of the same
+[Page 81]
+height, leaving a space of about three-quarters of an inch between
+them all round. A platform should now be made. Let it be of such a
+size that it will just fit in the interior box, with a very slight
+space all around its edge. It should then be pivoted in the upper
+part of this box by two small slender pins, one being driven through
+into its edge, at the centre of each end. Let it be sensitively
+poised. The next thing to be done, is to arrange the spindle and
+catch. The latter should consist of a tack or small bit of wood
+fastened on the middle of the platform, about an inch from one
+end, as seen both in the main illustration and in the diagram at
+(_b_).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The spindle should consist of a flat piece of wood, secured with
+a leather hinge to the edge of the outside box, directly opposite
+the catch. Let it be long enough to reach and barely hold itself
+beneath the catch. When thus in its position, two small plugs should
+next be driven into the edge of the inner box, one on each side of
+the spindle, thus holding it in place. A glance at our illustration
+makes this clear. The netting and "hoop" are next in order. The hoop
+should consist of an iron wire of the diameter of common telegraph
+wire.
+
+For a box of the size we have given, a length of about twenty-eight
+inches will be found to answer. Before making the hoop, however,
+its hinges should be ready for it. Two screw eyes, or staples of
+bent wire should be driven into the bottom of the box between the
+two walls, one in the exact middle of each side. The iron wire
+should now be bent so as to fit round and settle into the space
+between the boxes, letting each end rest
+[Page 82]
+over the screws in the bottom. It will be found that there will
+be enough surplus wire on each end to form into a loop with the
+pincers. These loops should be passed through the screws or rings
+already inserted, and then pinched together; the hinge will thus
+be made, and will appear as at (_c_). If properly done, they should
+allow the hoop to pass freely from one end of the box to the other,
+and settle easily between the partitions. If this hinge should
+prove too complicated for our young readers, they may resort to
+another method, which, although not so durable, will answer very
+well. In this case the wire will only need to reach to the exact
+middle of the long sides. No surplus being necessary, a length
+of twenty-six inches will be exactly right. On each end a short
+loop of tough Indian twine should be tied. By now fastening these
+loops to the bottom of the box with tacks, in the place of screws,
+it will form a hinge which will answer the purpose of the more
+complicated one.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The netting should consist of common mosquito gauze, or, if this
+cannot be had, any thin cloth may be substituted. It should be
+sewed fast to the iron wire, from hinge to hinge, and then, with
+the hoops resting in its groove, the netting should be drawn over the
+platform, and tacked to the bottom of the groove, on its remaining
+half. It should rest loosely over the platform to allow plenty of
+space for the bird.
+
+But one more addition, and the trap is finished. We have mentioned
+the use of elastics in other varieties: they are of equal use here,
+and should be attached to the hoop as seen at (_a_) in the section
+drawing, the remaining ends being fastened to the bottom of the
+groove, as there indicated. These elastics should be placed on
+both sides, and stretched to such a tension as will draw the hoop
+quickly from one side to the other.
+
+It will now be easy to set the trap. Draw the hoop back to the
+opposite end, tucking the netting into the groove; lower the spindle
+over it, resting it between the two little plugs, and securing
+its end beneath the catch on the platform. If the bait,
+[Page 83]
+consisting of bread-crumbs, berries, insects, or the like, be now
+sprinkled on the platform, the trap is ready for its feathered
+victim. It will easily be seen that the slightest weight on _either_
+side of this poised platform will throw the catch from the end of
+the spindle, and release the hoop and the platform in an instant
+is covered by the net, capturing whatever unlucky little bird may
+have chanced to jump upon it. This is a very pretty little trap,
+and will well repay the trouble of making it.
+
+
+A SIMPLER NET TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Much ingenuity has been displayed in the construction of bird traps
+of various kinds, but often the ingenuity has been misplaced, and
+the result has been so complicated as to mar its usefulness for
+practical purposes. The examples of net traps presented in this
+volume are so simple that the merest tyro can readily understand
+them. What can be more so than the present example, and yet it
+is as sure in its effect, and _surer_ than those other varieties
+of more complicated construction. One necessary element in a trap
+of any kind is, that the bearings are slight and that they spring
+easily. To obtain this requisite it is necessary to overcome friction
+as much as possible, using only a small number of pieces, and having
+as few joints and hinges only as are absolutely necessary. The present
+variety possesses advantages on this account. It is constructed
+somewhat on the principle of the ordinary steel trap, and also
+resembles in other respects the one we have just described, although
+much simpler. We give only a section drawing, as this will be
+sufficient. The long side of a flat board of about eight by sixteen
+inches is shown at (_a_); (_b_) indicates the loops of a bent wire,
+to which the netting is attached, as in the trap just described,
+[Page 84]
+the loops being fastened to the board as in the other variety;
+(_g_) consists of a small bit of wood an inch or so in length and
+half an inch in width. It should be tacked on to the middle of
+the one end of the board and project about a half inch above the
+surface. To the top of this the spindle (_c_) should be attached
+by a leather or staple hinge. The spindle should be of light pine,
+five inches in length and a quarter of an inch square, bevelled;
+on the under side of one end (_d_) is the catch or bait piece,
+and should be whittled out of a shingle or pine stick of the shape
+shown, the width being about a half an inch or less. One side should
+be supplied with a slight notch for the reception of the spindle,
+and the other should project out two or three inches, being covered
+on the top with a little platform of pasteboard, tin, or thin wood
+either glued or tacked in place. To attach this piece to the main
+board, two small wire staples may be used, one being inserted into
+the bottom end of the piece and the other being hooked through
+it, and afterward tacked to the bottom of the trap, thus forming
+a loop hinge. Another method is to make a hole through the lower
+tip of the bait piece by the aid of a red-hot wire, as seen at
+(_d_), afterwards inserting a pin and overlapping its ends with
+two staples driven into the bottom board, as shown at (_e_). In
+our last mentioned net trap the spring power consisted of rubber
+elastic, and the same may be used in this case, if desired, but by
+way of variety we here introduce another form of spring which may
+be successfully employed in the construction of traps of various
+kinds. It is shown at (_o_) and consists merely of a piece of tempered
+hoop iron, so bent as to act with an upward pressure. It should be
+about three inches long by half an inch wide. About three-quarters
+of an inch should be allowed for the two screws by which it is to
+be attached to the board. The rest should be bent upward and thus
+tempered by first heating almost to redness, and then cooling in
+cold water.
+
+One of these springs should be fastened to the board on each side,
+directly under the wire and quite near the hinge, in the position
+shown in the main drawing. Now draw back the net, lower the spindle
+and catch its extremity in the notch of the bait piece, and the trap
+is set as in our illustration. Sprinkle the bait on the platform,
+and lay the machine on the ground where birds are known to frequent;
+and it is only a matter of a few hours or perhaps minutes, before it
+will prove its efficacy. In order to prevent the bird from raising
+the wire and thereby escaping, it is well to fasten a little tin
+[Page 85]
+catch (_f_) at the end of the board. This will spring over the wire
+and hold it in its place.
+
+
+THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.
+
+The following is another novelty in the way of a bird-trap, somewhat
+similar to the one we have just described, in its manner of working.
+
+Procure two pieces of board about a foot square. Nail one to the
+edge of the other, as represented in our engraving. A stout wire
+is the next requisite. It should be about thirty inches long, and
+bent either into a curve or into two corners, making three equal
+sides. Each end of the wire should then be bent into a very small
+loop for the hinge. On to this wire the netting should then be
+secured as in the two previous examples, after which the ends of
+the wire may be tied with string or hinged on wire staples into
+the angle of the two boards, as seen in our illustration. Allow
+the wire now to lie flat on the bottom board, and then proceed
+to tack the netting around the edges of the upright board. Two
+elastics should next be fastened to the wire on each side, securing
+their loose ends to the bottom of the trap. They should be tightly
+drawn so as to bring the wire down with a snap. The spindle of
+this trap should be about eight or nine inches long, square and
+slender,--the lower end being flattened, and the upper end secured
+to the top edge of the upright board by a hinge of leather or string.
+An excellent hinge may be made with a piece of leather an inch
+and a half long, by half an inch in width, one half of the length
+being tied around the end of the spindle, and the other tacked
+on to the upper edge of the board.
+
+The platform is given by itself at (_a_) in the same picture. It
+may be made of very thin wood--cigar box wood, for instance, or
+even thick pasteboard. It consists of three pieces. The piece which
+is hinged into the angle of the boards should be about three inches
+in length; the platform piece ought not to be more than four inches
+square, and the upright piece only long enough to reach the tip of
+the spindle when the platform is raised, as shown in our engraving.
+The hinge piece should be cut to an edge on that end where the
+leather is fastened, the opposite end being bevelled off in order
+that the platform may rest and be tacked or glued firmly upon it.
+The diagram (_a_) will make this all very clear.
+
+When the platform is all made and fastened in its place, the
+[Page 86]
+trap may be set. Draw the hoop back as far as possible, and lower
+the spindle over its edge, catching it behind the upright stick on
+the platform. If the trap is properly constructed, the pressure
+of the spindle on the platform will suffice to hold it up as seen
+in our illustration. The upright stick on the back of the platform
+should never be more than an inch and a half from the back of the
+trap. If need be, a slight notch may be made in the end of the
+spindle and a small tack driven into the back of the upright stick
+to correspond to it. By thus fitting the notch under the head of the
+tack, it will be sure to hold the platform in the right position.
+But it should be carefully tested before setting, to see that it
+springs easily.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When thus set sprinkle the bait on the platform, scattering a little
+also on the bottom of the trap and on the ground directly around it.
+The little birds will soon spy the tempting morsels, and alighting
+on the trap are misled, and the slightest peck or pressure on the
+platform where the bait is most bounteously spread brings down the
+wire and net with a _snap_, and the little creature is secured
+without harm.
+
+[Illustration: Method 2.]
+
+Our next illustration shows another method of constructing the platform.
+It should be about three or four inches square,
+[Page 87]
+and on the middle of one of its edges the upright catch piece should
+be fastened. This piece, as will be seen in our engraving, should
+be cut spreading at the bottom so as to admit of being secured to
+the platform by two brads, the tip being cut to a point. The total
+length of this piece should not be over two and a half inches. When
+tacked in place, a third brad should be inserted between the other
+two and exactly in the centre of the side of the platform. This
+latter brad is to act as the pivot, or hinge, and should project
+about a quarter of an inch, as seen at (_a_). On the opposite edge
+of the platform another larger brad should be driven, having its
+end filed to a blunt point, as in (_b_). If the filing would be
+too tedious, a plug of hard wood of the required shape would answer
+every purpose. The upright props which support the platform should
+be cut of thin wood. Let one be an inch and a half long and half
+an inch wide, the other being an inch in length. Each should have
+one end whittled to a point, which will admit of its being inserted
+in a gimlet hole in the bottom of the trap. These gimlet holes
+should be made at least half an inch in depth. Make the first at
+about an inch or so from the back of the trap. Into this insert
+the shorter pieces, broadside front. Lay the pivot brad of the
+platform on the top of this piece and insert over it a small wire
+staple, as seen at (_a_). Elevate the platform evenly and determine
+the spot for the other gimlet hole, which should be directly beneath
+the point of the filed brad. Be sure that it is in the middle of
+the board, so that the platform may set squarely, and be perfectly
+parallel with the sides. Insert the remaining prop in its place,
+and the platform is complete. The overhanging spindle now requires a
+little attention. This should be whittled off on each side, bringing
+it to a point at the tip. On each side of the spindle a long plug
+should then be driven into the back piece, as our illustration
+shows. These should be far enough apart to allow the spindle to
+pass easily between them. The _setting_ of the trap is plainly shown
+[Page 88]
+in our engraving. The spindle being lowered between the plugs is caught
+finely on the tip of the catch-piece. The blunt point at the opposite
+end of the platform should have a slight hollow made for it in the
+prop against which it presses. If the platform be now strewn with
+bait, the little machine is ready. It is certainly very simple and
+will be found very effective.
+
+
+THE BOX OWL TRAP.
+
+The use of a box trap for the capture of an owl is certainly an
+odd idea, but we nevertheless illustrate a contrivance which has
+been successfully used for that purpose.
+
+The box in this case should be of the proportions shown in our
+engraving, and well ventilated with holes, as indicated. (This
+ventilation is, by-the-way, a good feature to introduce in _all_
+traps.) Having made or selected a suitable box--say, fourteen or
+more inches wide, provided with a cover, working on a hinge--proceed
+to fasten on the outside of the lid a loop of stiff wire, bent in
+the shape shown at (_e_). This may be fastened to the cover by
+means of small staples, or even tacks, and should project over
+the edge about two inches. When this is done, the lid should be
+raised to the angle shown in our illustration, and the spot where
+the end of the wire loop touches the back of the box should be
+marked and a slit cut through the wood at this place, large enough
+for the angle of the loop to pass through. Two elastics should
+now be fastened to the inside of the box, being secured to the
+bottom at the side, and the other to the edge of the cover, as
+seen in the illustration. They should be sufficiently strong to
+draw down the cover quickly. The perch, or spindle, should consist
+of a light stick of wood, as shown at (_b_,) one end provided with
+a slight notch, and the other fastened to the inside of the front
+of the box by a string or leather hinge, (_c_,) keeping the notch on
+the _upper_ side of the stick. It will be now seen that by opening
+the cover, until the loop enters through the groove, and by then
+hooking the notch in the spindle _under_ the loop as seen at (_a_)
+the trap will be set, and if properly done it will be found that a
+very slight weight on the spindle will set it free from the loop
+and let the cover down with swiftness.
+
+To secure the cover in place a small tin catch should now be applied
+to the front edge of the box, as shown in the illustration. A piece
+of tin two inches in length by a half an inch in breadth will answer
+for this purpose. One end should be bent
+[Page 89]
+down half an inch at a pretty sharp angle, and the other attached
+by two tacks, to the edge of the box, in the position shown in
+the cut. This precaution will effectually prevent the escape of
+whatever bird, large or small, the trap may chance to secure. It
+is a necessary feature of the trap, as without it the elastics
+might be torn asunder and the lid thereby easily raised.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This trap may be baited in a variety of ways. As it is particularly
+designed for a _bird_ trap, it is well to sprinkle the bottom of
+the box with berries, bird-seed, small insects, such as crickets,
+grasshoppers, etc. These latter are very apt to jump out, and it
+may be well to fasten one or two of them to the bottom with a pin
+through the body, just behind the head.
+
+There are many kinds of birds which live almost exclusively on
+insects; and as this bait is of rather a lively kind, there is
+scarcely any other method to retain them in their position. A bird
+on approaching this trap will almost irresistibly alight on the
+perch, and if not at _first_, it is generally sure to do so before
+long. If desired, a pasteboard platform may be fastened on the
+[Page 90]
+top of the perch with small tacks, and the bait scattered upon
+it. This will act in the same manner, and might, perhaps, be a
+trifle more certain. We will leave it to our readers to experiment
+upon.
+
+We have given this variety the name of "owl-trap," because it may
+be used with success in this direction. When set for this purpose,
+it should be baited with a live mouse, small rat or bird, either
+fastened to the bottom of the trap, if a bird, or set in with the
+trap inclosing it, if a mouse. A small bird is the preferable bait,
+as it may be easily fastened to the bottom of the box by a string,
+and as a general thing is more sure to attract the attention of
+the owl by its chirping.
+
+The trap should be set in an open, conspicuous spot, in the neighborhood
+where the owls in the night are heard to "hoot." The chances are
+that the box will contain an owl on the following morning.
+
+This bird is a very interesting and beautiful creature, and if our
+young reader could only catch one, and find rats and mice enough
+to keep it well fed, he would not only greatly diminish the number
+of rats in his neighborhood, but he would realize a great deal
+of enjoyment in watching and studying the habits of the bird.
+
+Should it be difficult to supply the above mentioned food, raw
+meat will answer equally well. The bird should either be kept in
+a cage or inclosure and in the latter case, its wings will require
+to be clipped.
+
+
+THE BOX BIRD TRAP.
+
+Here we have another invention somewhat resembling the foregoing.
+Our engraving represents the arrangement of the parts as the trap
+appears when set.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The box may be of almost any shape. A large sized cigar box has
+been used with excellent success, and for small birds is just the
+thing. The cover of the box in any case should work on a hinge of
+some sort. The trap is easily made. The first thing to be done
+is to cut an upright slot, about two inches in length, through
+the centre of the backboard, commencing at the upper edge. To the
+inside centre edge of the cover a small square strap, about four
+inches in length, should then be secured. It should be so adjusted
+as that one-half shall project toward the inside of the box, as
+seen in the illustration, and at the same time pass easily through
+[Page 91]
+the slot beneath where the cover is closed. The lid should now be
+supplied with elastics as described in the foregoing. Next in order
+comes the bait stick. Its shape is clearly shown in our illustration,
+and it may be either cut in one piece or consist of two parts joined
+together at the angle. To the long arm the bait should be attached
+and the upright portion should be just long enough to suspend the
+cover in a position on a line with the top of the box. The trap may
+now be set, as seen in our illustration, and should be supplied with
+the necessary tin catch, described in the foregoing.
+
+
+THE PENDENT BOX TRAP.
+
+This invention is original with the author of this work, and when
+properly made and set will prove an excellent device for the capture
+of small birds.
+
+The general appearance of the trap, as set, is clearly shown in
+our illustration. A thin wooden box is the first requisite, it
+should be about a foot square and six inches in depth, and supplied
+with a close fitting cover, working on hinges. The sides should then
+be perforated with a few auger holes for purposes of ventilation.
+
+Two elastics are next in order, and they should be attached to the
+cover and box, one on each side, as shown at (_a_.) They should be
+drawn to a strong tension, so as to hold the cover firmly against
+the box.
+
+The mechanism of the trap centres in the bait stick which differs
+in construction from any other described in this book.
+
+It should be made about the size of a lead pencil, and eleven
+[Page 92]
+inches or so in length, depending of course upon the size of the
+box.
+
+It should then be divided in two pieces by a perfectly flat cut,
+the longer part being six inches in length. This piece should be
+attached to the back board of the box by a small string and a tack,
+as shown at (_c_), its end being bluntly pointed. Its attachment
+should be about five inches above the bottom board, and in the
+exact centre of the width of the back.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Near the flat end of the other piece the bait consisting of a berry
+or other fruit, should be secured, and the further extremity of
+the stick should then be rounded to a blunt point. The trap is now
+easily set. Raise the lid and lift the long stick to the position
+given in the illustration. Adjust the flat end of the bait stick
+against that of the former, and allow the pressure of the lid to
+bear against the blunt point of the short stick at (_d_), as shown
+in the illustration, a straight dent being made in the cover to
+receive it, as also in the hack of the box for the other piece.
+If properly constructed, this pressure will be sufficient to hold
+the sticks end to end, as our engraving represents, and the trap is
+[Page 93]
+thus set. The slightest weight on the false perch thus made will
+throw the parts asunder, and the cover closes with a snap.
+
+The greatest difficulties in constructing the trap will be found
+in the bearings of the bait sticks (_b_), the ends of which must
+be perfectly flat and join snugly, in order to hold themselves
+together. The box may now be suspended in a tree by the aid of a
+string at the top. The first bird that makes bold enough to alight
+on the perch is a sure captive, and is secured without harm. If
+desired, the elastic may be attached to the inside of the cover,
+extending to the back of the box, as seen in the initial at the head
+of this chapter. If the elastic in any event shows tendencies toward
+relaxing, the tin catch described on page 88 should be adjusted
+to the lower edge of the box to insure capture.
+
+
+THE HAWK TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our illustration represents a hawk in a sad plight. The memory of
+a recent feast has attracted it to the scene of many of
+[Page 94]
+its depredations: but the ingenious farmer has at last outwitted
+his feathered foe and brought its sanguinary exploits to a timely
+end. This trap is a "Yankee" invention and has been used with great
+success in many instances where the hawk has become a scourge to the
+poultry yard. The contrivance is clearly shown in an illustration,
+consisting merely of a piece of plank two feet square, set with
+stiff perpendicular pointed wires.
+
+This affair was set on the ground in a conspicuous place, the board
+covered with grass, and the nice fat Poland hen which was tied to
+the centre proved a morsel too tempting for the hawk to resist.
+Hence the "fell swoop" and the fatal consequences depicted in our
+illustration. The owl has also been successfully captured by the
+same device.
+
+
+THE WILD DUCK NET.
+
+Following will be found two examples of traps in very common use
+for the capture of wild ducks, and in the region of Chesapeake
+bay, immense numbers of the game are annually taken by their aid.
+The first is the well known net trap, so extensively used in nearly
+all countries, both for the capture of various kinds of fish as
+well as winged game. Our illustration gives a very clear idea of
+the construction of the net, and an elaborate description is almost
+superfluous. It consists of a graduated series of hoops covered
+by a net work. From each a converging net extends backward ending
+in a smaller hoop which is held in position by cords extending
+[Page 95]
+therefrom to the next larger hoop. The depth of these converging
+nets should extend backward about three or four feet from the large
+hoop; and the distance between these latter should be about five
+feet. The length of the net should be about twenty feet, terminating
+in a "pound" or netted enclosure, as seen in the illustration. The
+trap may be set on shore or in the water as seen. "Decoy" birds are
+generally used, being enclosed in the pound.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When set on land the bait consisting of corn or other grain should
+be spread about the entrance and through the length of the net.
+
+It is remarkable that a duck which so easily finds its way within
+the netted enclosure, should be powerless to make its escape, but
+such seems to be the fact, and even a single hoop with its reflex
+net, has been known to secure a number of the game.
+
+
+THE HOOK TRAP
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our second example is one which we are almost tempted to exclude
+on account of its cruelty, but as our volume is especially devoted
+to traps of all kinds and as this is a variety in very common use,
+we feel bound to give it a passing notice. Our illustration fully
+conveys its painful mode of capture, and a beach at low water is
+generally the scene of the slaughter. A long stout cord is first
+stretched across the sand and secured
+[Page 96]
+to a peg at each end. To this shorter lines are attached at intervals,
+each one being supplied with a fish hook baited with a piece of
+the tender rootstock of a certain water reed, of which the ducks
+are very fond. The main cord and lines are then imbedded in the
+sand, the various baits only appearing on the surface, and the
+success of the device is equal to its cruelty.
+
+
+THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.
+
+Of all oddities of the trap kind, there is, perhaps, no one more
+novel and comical than the "Fool's Cap" crow-trap, which forms
+the subject of our present illustration. Crows are by no means
+easy of capture in any form of trap, and they are generally as
+coy and as shrewd in their approach to a trap as they are bold in
+their familiarity and disrespect for the sombre scarecrows in the
+com field. But this simple device will often mislead the smartest
+and shrewdest crow, and make a perfect _fool_ of him, for it is
+hard to imagine a more ridiculous sight than is furnished by the
+strange antics and evolutions of a crow thus embarrassed with his
+head imbedded in a cap which he finds impossible to remove, and
+which he in vain endeavors to shake off by all sorts of gymnastic
+performance. The secret of the little contrivance is easily told.
+The cap consists of a little cone of stiff paper, about three or
+four inches in diameter at the opening. This is imbedded in the
+ground, up to its edge, and a few grains of corn are dropped into
+it. The inside edge of the opening is then smeared with _bird-lime_,
+[Page 97]
+a substance of which we shall speak hereafter.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The crow, on endeavoring to reach the corn, sinks his bill so deep
+in the cone as to bring the gummy substance in contact with the
+feathers of his head and neck, to which it adheres in spite of
+all possible efforts on the part of the bird to throw it off.
+
+The cones may be made of a brownish-colored paper if they are to
+be placed in the earth, but of white paper when inserted in the
+snow. It is an excellent plan to insert a few of these cones in
+the fresh corn hills at planting season, as the crows are always on
+the watch at this time, and will be sure to partake of the tempting
+morsels, not dreaming of the result. The writer has often heard
+of this ingenious device, and has read of its being successfully
+employed in many instances, but he has never yet had an opportunity
+of testing it himself. He will leave it for his readers to experiment
+upon for themselves.
+
+
+BIRD LIME.
+
+This substance so called to which we have above alluded, and which
+is sold in our bird marts under that name, is a viscid, sticky
+preparation, closely resembling a very thick and gummy varnish.
+It is astonishingly "sticky," and the slightest quantity between
+the fingers will hold them together with remarkable tenacity. What
+its effect must be on the feathers of a bird can easily be imagined.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This preparation is put up in boxes of different sizes, and may
+be had from any of the taxidermists or bird-fanciers in any of
+[Page 98]
+our large towns or cities. Should a _home made_ article be required,
+an excellent substitute may be prepared from the inner bark of the
+"slippery elm." This should be gathered in the spring or early
+summer, cut into very small pieces or scraped into threads, and
+boiled in water sufficient to cover them until the pieces are soft
+and easily mashed. By this time the water will be pretty much boiled
+down, and the whole mass should then be poured into a mortar and
+beaten up, adding at the same time a few grains of wheat. When
+done, the paste thus made may be put into an earthen vessel and
+kept. When required to be used, it should be melted or softened
+over the fire, adding goose grease or linseed oil, instead of water.
+When of the proper consistency it may be spread upon sticks or
+twigs prepared for it, and which should afterwards be placed in
+the locality selected for the capture of the birds.
+
+An excellent bird-lime may be made also from plain linseed-oil,
+by boiling it down until it becomes thick and gummy. Thick varnish
+either plain or mixed with oil, but always free from alcohol, also
+answers the purpose very well. The limed twigs may be either set
+in trees or placed on poles and stuck in the ground.
+
+If any of our readers chance to become possessed of an owl, they
+may look forward to grand success with their limed twigs. It is a
+well known fact in natural history that the _owl_ is the universal
+enemy of nearly all our smaller birds. And when, as often happens,
+a swarm of various birds are seen flying frantically from limb to
+limb, seeming to centre on a particular tree, and filling the air
+with their loud chirping, it may be safely concluded that some sleepy
+owl has been surprised in his day-dozing, and is being severely
+pecked and punished for his nightly depredations.
+
+Profiting from this fact, the bird catcher often utilizes the owl
+with great success. Fastening the bird in the crotch of some tree,
+he adjusts the limed twigs on an sides, even covering the neighboring
+branches with the gummy substance. No sooner is the owl spied by
+_one_ bird than the cry is set up, and a _score_ of foes are soon
+at hand, ready for battle. One by one they alight on the beguiling
+twigs, and one by one find themselves held fast. The more they flutter
+the more powerless they become, and the more securely are they held.
+In this way many valuable and rare birds are often captured.
+
+
+[Page 99]
+THE HUMMING BIRD TRAP.
+
+One of the most ingenious uses to which bird lime is said to have
+been applied with success, is in the capture of humming-birds.
+The lime in this instance is made simply by chewing a few grains
+of wheat in the mouth until a gum is formed. It is said that by
+spreading this on the inside opening of the long white lily or
+trumpet-creeper blossom, the capture of a humming-bird is almost
+certain, and he will never be able to leave the flower after once
+fairly having entered the opening. There can be no doubt but that
+this is perfectly practicable, and we recommend it to our readers.
+
+The object in making the bird-lime from wheat consists in the fact
+that this is more easily removed from the feathers than the other
+kinds.
+
+We would not wish our readers to infer from this that a humming-bird
+might be captured or kept alive, for of all birds, they are the most
+fragile and delicate, and would die of _fright_, if from nothing
+else. They are chiefly used for ornamental purposes, and may be
+caught in a variety of ways. A few silk nooses hung about the flowers
+where the birds are seen to frequent, will sometimes succeed in
+ensnaring their tiny forms.
+
+The blow-gun is often used with good success, and the concussion
+from a gun loaded simply with powder, and aimed in the direction
+of the bird, will often stun it so that it will fall to the ground.
+If a strong stream of water be forced upon the little creature, as
+it is fluttering from flower to flower, the result is the same,
+as the feathers become so wet that it cannot fly.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 101]
+[Illustration: MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS]
+
+[Page 103]
+BOOK IV.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.
+
+
+THE COMMON BOX TRAP.
+
+[Illustration: T]he following chapter includes a variety of traps
+which have not been covered by any of the previous titles. Several
+novelties are contained in the list, and also a number of well
+known inventions.
+
+There is probably no more familiar example of the trap kind than
+that of the common wooden box-trap, better known, perhaps, by our
+country boys as the rabbit-trap. A glance at our illustration, will
+readily bring it to mind, and easily explain its working to those
+not particularly acquainted with it. These traps may be made of any
+size, but, being usually employed in catching rabbits, require to
+be made quite large. They should be made of hard seasoned wood--oak
+or chestnut is the best--and of slabs about an inch in thickness.
+The pieces may be of the following dimensions: let the bottom board
+be 20+7 in.; side board, 20+9 in.; lid board 19+7 in., and the
+end piece of lid 7 in. square.
+
+The tall end piece should be about 16 inches high by 7 broad. Let
+this be sharpened on the upper end, as seen in the engraving, and
+furnished with a slight groove on the summit, for the reception
+of the cord. Now to put the pieces together.
+
+Nail the two sides to the edge of the bottom board, and fit in
+between them the high end piece, securing that also, with nails
+through the bottom and side boards. Next nail the lid board on
+to the small, square end piece, and fit the lid thus made neatly
+into its place.
+
+To make the hinge for the lid, two small holes should be bored
+through the sides of the trap, about four inches from the tall end,
+and half an inch from the upper edge of each board. Let
+[Page 104]
+small nails now be driven through these holes into the edge of the
+lid, and it will be found to work freely upon them.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The principal part of the trap is now made, but what remains to be
+done is of great importance. The "spindle" is a necessary feature
+in nearly all traps, and the box-trap is useless without it. In
+this case it should consist merely of a round stick of about the
+thickness of a lead pencil, and we will say, 7 or 8 in. in length.
+One end should be pointed and the other should have a small notch
+cut in it, as seen in the separate drawing of the stick. The spindle
+being ready, we must have some place to put it. Another hole should
+be bored through the middle of the high end piece, and about 4 in.
+from the bottom. This hole should be large enough to allow the
+spindle to pass easily through it. If our directions have been
+carefully followed, the result will now show a complete, closefitting
+trap.
+
+In setting the trap there are two methods commonly employed, as
+shown at _a_ and _b_. The string, in either case, must be fastened
+to the end of the lid.
+
+In the first instance (_a_) the lid is raised and made fast by the
+brace, holding itself beneath the tip of the projecting spindle,
+and a nail or plug driven into the wood by the side of the hole.
+[Page 105]
+Of course, when the spindle is drawn or moved from the inside the
+brace will be let loose and the lid will drop.
+
+In the other method (_b_) the spindle is longer, and projects several
+inches on the outside of the hole. The brace is also longer, and
+catches itself in the notch on the end of the spindle, and another
+slight notch in the board, a few inches above the hole.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When the bait is touched from the inside, the brace easily flies
+out and the lid falls, securing its victim. Either way is sure
+to succeed, but if there is any preference it is for the former
+(_a_). It is a wise plan to have a few holes through the trap in
+different places, to allow for ventilation, and it may be found
+necessary to line the cracks with tin, as sometimes the enclosed
+creature might otherwise gnaw through and make its escape. If there
+is danger of the lid not closing tightly when sprung, a stone may
+be fastened upon it to insure that result.
+
+This trap is usually set for rabbits, and these dimensions are
+especially calculated with that idea. Rabbits abound in all our
+woods and thickets, and may be attracted by various baits. An apple
+is most generally used. The box-trap may be made of smaller dimensions,
+and set in trees for squirrels with very good success.
+
+There is still another well known form of this trap represented
+in the tail piece at the end of this section. The box is first
+constructed of the shape already given, only having the lid piece
+[Page 106]
+nailed firmly in the top of the box. The tall end piece is also
+done away with. The whole thing thus representing a simple oblong
+box with one end open. Two slender cleats should be nailed on each
+side of this opening, on the interior of the box, to form a groove
+into which a square end board may easily slide up and down, the
+top board being slightly sawn away to receive it. An upright stick
+should then be erected on the top centre of the box, in the tip of
+which a straight stick should be pivoted, working easily therein,
+like the arms of a balance. To one end of this balance, the end
+board should be adjusted by two screw eyes, and to the other the
+string with spindle attached. By now lowering the spindle to its
+place, the further end of the balance will be raised and with it
+the end board, and on the release of the spindle the board will
+fall. This plan is quite commonly adopted but we rather prefer
+the former. But as each has its advantages we present them both.
+
+
+ANOTHER BOX TRAP.
+
+This works after the manner of the ordinary wire rat-trap; our
+illustration explains itself.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The box should be of the shape there shown, with one of its end
+pieces arranged on hinges so as to fall freely. An elastic should
+be fastened from the inside of this end to the inner surface of
+the top of the box, to insure its closing. If desired an elastic
+may be adjusted at the side as shown in the cut and a catch piece
+of stout tin should be attached to the bottom of the trap to secure
+the lid when it falls. A small hole should then be bored in the
+top, near the further end of the trap, and
+[Page 107]
+the spindle, having a notch on its upper end, passed through the
+hole thus made. The top of the spindle is shown at (_a_). It should
+be held in its place by a small plug or pin through it, below the
+surface of the box. A slender stick, long enough to reach and catch
+beneath the notch in the spindle should now be fastened to the lid
+and the trap is complete. It may be baited with cheese, bread,
+and the like, and if set for squirrels, an apple answers every
+purpose.
+
+When constructed on a larger and heavier scale it may be used for
+the capture of rabbits and animals of a similar size, but for this
+purpose the previous variety is preferable.
+
+
+THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+One of the most useful as well as the most ancient inventions in
+the way of traps is the common _Figure Four Trap_, which forms
+the subject of our next illustration. It is a very ingenious
+contrivance, and the mechanism, consists merely of three sticks.
+It possesses great advantages in the fact that it may be used in
+a variety of ways, and a number of the machines may be carried by
+the young trapper with very little inconvenience. Our illustration
+shows the trap already set, only awaiting for a slight touch at
+the bait to bring the heavy stone to the ground. A box may be
+substituted for the stone, and the animal may thus be
+[Page 108]
+captured alive. The three sticks are represented separate at _a_.
+_b_. and _c_. Of course, there is no regular size for them, as this
+would greatly depend upon the purpose for which they are designed
+to be used. If for rabbits, the following proportions will answer
+very well. The sticks should all be square, and about half an inch
+in thickness. The bait-stick, (_a_) should be about nine or ten
+inches in length, one end being pointed and the other furnished
+with a notch, as indicated. The upright stick, (_b_) should be
+a little shorter, one end being whittled to a rather sharp edge.
+At about three or four inches from the other end, and on the side
+next to that whittled, a square notch should be cut. This should
+be about a third of an inch in depth and half an inch in width,
+being so cut as exactly to receive the bait-stick without holding
+it fast. The remaining stick (_c_) should have a length of about
+seven or eight inches, one end being whittled, as in the last,
+to an edge, and the other end furnished with a notch on the same
+side of the stick.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When these are finished, the trap may be set in the following manner:
+Place the upright stick, (_b_) with its pointed end uppermost.
+Rest the notch of the slanting stick, (_c_) on the summit of the
+upright stick, placing the stone upon its end, and holding the
+stick in position with the hand. By now hooking the notch in the
+bait-stick on the sharpened edge of the slanting stick and fitting
+it into the square notch in the upright, it may easily be made to
+catch and hold itself in position. The bait should always project
+beneath the stone. In case a box is used instead of a stone, the
+trap may be set either inside of it or beneath its edge. Where the
+ground is very soft, it would be well to rest the upright stick
+on a chip or small flat stone, as otherwise it is apt to sink into
+the earth by degrees and spring by itself.
+
+When properly made, it is a very sure and sensitive trap, and the
+bait, generally an apple, or "nub" of corn is seldom more than
+touched when the stone falls.
+
+
+[Page 109]
+THE "DOUBLE ENDER."
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is what we used to call it in New England and it was a great
+favorite among the boys who were fond of rabbit catching. It was
+constructed of four boards two feet in length by nine inches in
+breath secured with nails at their edges, so as to form a long
+square box. Each end was supplied with a heavy lid working on two
+hinges. To each of these lids a light strip of wood was fastened,
+the length of each being sufficient to reach nearly to the middle
+of the top of the box, as seen in the illustration. At this point
+a small auger hole was then made downward through the board. A
+couple of inches of string was next tied to the tip of each stick
+and supplied with a large knot at the end. The trap was then set on
+the simple principle of which there are so many examples throughout
+the pages of this work. The knots were lowered through the auger
+hole and the insertion of the bait stick inside the box held them
+in place. The edge of the bottom board on each end of the trap
+should be supplied with a tin catch such as is described on page
+88 in order to hold the lid in place after it has fallen. No matter
+from which end the bait is approached it is no sooner touched than
+both ends fall and "_bunny_" is prisoner. Like many other of our
+four-footed game, the rabbit manifests a peculiar liking for salt
+and may be regularly attracted to a given spot by its aid. A salted
+cotton string is sometimes extended several yards from the trap
+for the purpose of leading them to it, but this seems a needless
+precaution, as the rabbit is seldom behind hand in discerning a
+tempting bait when it is within his reach.
+
+
+[Page 110]
+THE SELF SETTING TRAP.
+
+One of the oldest known principles ever embodied in the form of a
+trap is that which forms the subject of the accompanying illustration.
+It is very simple in construction, sure in its action; and as its
+name implies, resets itself after each intruder has been captured.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It is well adapted for Rabbits and Coons and when made on a small
+scale, may be successfully employed in taking rats and mice. It
+is also extensively used in the capture of the Mink and Muskrat,
+being set beneath the water, near the haunts of the animals and
+weighted by a large stone. Of course the size of the box will be
+governed by the dimensions of the game for which it is to be set.
+Its general proportions should resemble those of the illustration,
+both ends being open. A small gate, consisting of a square piece
+of wood supplied with a few stiff wires is then pivoted inside
+each opening, so as to work freely and fall easily when raised.
+The bait is fastened inside at the centre of the box. The animal,
+in quest of the bait, finds an easy entrance, as the wires lift
+at a slight pressure, but the exit after the gate has closed is
+so difficult that escape is almost beyond the question.
+
+The wires should be so stiff as to preclude the possibility of them
+being bent by struggles of the imprisoned creature in his
+[Page 111]
+efforts to escape, and to insure further strength it is advisable
+to connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of finer
+wire, twisted about each.
+
+The simultaneous capture of two rabbits in a trap of this kind is
+a common occurrence.
+
+
+THE DEAD-FALL.
+
+In strolling through the woods and on the banks of streams in the
+country, it is not an uncommon thing to stumble against a contrivance
+resembling in general appearance our next illustration. Throughout
+New England, the "dead-fall," as this is called, has always been
+a most popular favorite among trappers, young and old; and there
+is really no better rough and ready trap for large game. To entrap
+a fox by any device is no easy matter; but the writer remembers
+one case where Reynard was outwitted, and the heavy log of the
+"dead-fall" put a speedy end to his existence. The trap was set in
+a locality where the fox had made himself a nuisance by repeated
+nocturnal invasions among the poultry, and the bait was cleverly
+calculated to decoy him. A live duck was tied within the pen, and
+the morsel proved too tempting for him to resist. Thrusting his
+head beneath the suspended log, in order to reach his prey, he thus
+threw down the slender framework of support; and the log, falling
+across his neck, put him to death.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our illustration gives a very correct idea of the general construction
+of the "dead-fall," although differing slightly in its mode of
+setting from that usually employed.
+
+[Page 112]
+A pen of rough sticks is first constructed, having an open front.
+A log about seven or eight feet in length, and five or six inches
+in diameter, should then be procured. An ordinary fence rail will
+answer the purpose very well, although the log is preferable. Its
+large end should be laid across the front of the pen, and two stout
+sticks driven into the ground outside of it, leaving room for it
+to rise and fall easily between them and the pen, a second shorter
+log being placed on the ground beneath it, as described for the
+bear-trap, page (17). A look at our illustration fully explains
+the _setting_ of the parts. A forked twig, about a foot in length,
+answers for the bait-stick. The lower end should be pointed, and
+the fork, with its bait, should incline toward the ground, when
+set. The upper end should be supplied with a notch, square side
+down, and directly above the branch which holds the bait. Another
+straight stick, about fourteen inches in length, should then be
+cut. Make it quite flat on each end. A small thin stone, chip of
+wood, or the like, is the only remaining article required. Now
+proceed to raise the log, as shown in the drawing, place one end
+of the straight stick beneath it, resting its tip on the flat top
+of the upright stick on the outside of the log. The baitstick should
+now be placed in position inside the inclosure, resting the pointed
+end on the chip, and securing the notch above, as seen in the
+illustration, beneath the tip of the flat stick. When this is done,
+the trap is set, but, there are a few little hints in regard to
+setting it finely,--that is, surely,--which will be necessary.
+It is very important to avoid bringing too much of the weight of
+the log on the flat stick, as this would of course bear heavily on
+the bait-stick, and render considerable force necessary to spring
+the trap. The leverage at the point where the log rests on the flat
+stick should be very slight, and the log should be so placed that
+the upright shall sustain nearly all the weight. By this method,
+very little pressure is brought to bear on the bait-stick, and a
+very slight twitch will throw it out of poise. The fork of the
+bait-stick should point to the side of the inclosure, as, in this
+case, when the bait is seized by the unlucky intruder, the very
+turning of the fork forces the notch from beneath the horizontal
+stick, and throws the parts asunder.
+
+If the trap is set for muskrats, minks, skunks, or animals of similar
+size, the weight of the log will generally be found sufficient to
+effect their death; but, if desired, a heavy stone
+[Page 113]
+may be rested against it, or the raised end weighted with other
+logs (see p. 18), to make sure. When set for a coon or fox, this
+precaution is necessary. To guard against the cunning which some
+animals possess, it is frequently necessary to cover the top of the
+pen with cross-sticks, as there are numerous cases on record where
+the intended victims have climbed over the side of the inclosure, and
+taken the bait from the inside, thus keeping clear of the suspended
+log, and springing the trap without harm to themselves. A few sticks
+or branches laid across the top of the inclosure will prevent any
+such capers; and the crafty animals will either have to take the
+bait at the risk of their lives, or leave it alone.
+
+For trapping the muskrat, the bait may consist of carrots, turnips,
+apples, and the like. For the mink, a bird's head, or the head
+of a fowl, is the customary bait; and the skunk may usually be
+taken with sweet apples, meats, or some portion of a dead fowl.
+
+In the case of the fox, which we have mentioned, the setting of the
+trap was somewhat varied; and in case our readers might desire to
+try a similar experiment, we will devote a few lines to a description
+of it. In this instance, the flat stick which supported the log was
+not more than eight inches in length; and instead of the bait-stick,
+a slight framework of slender branches was substituted. This frame or
+lattice-work was just large enough to fill the opening of the pen,
+and its upper end supported the flat stick. The duck was fastened
+to the back part of the pen, which was also closed over the top.
+The quacking of the fowl attracted the fox; and as he thrust his
+head through the lattice to reach his prey, the frame was thrown
+out of balance and Reynard paid the price of his greed and folly.
+
+There is another mode of adjusting the pieces of the dead-fall,
+commonly employed by professional trappers, whereby the trap is sprung
+by the foot of the animal in quest of the bait. This construction
+is shown correctly in the accompanying cut, which gives the front
+view, the pen being made as before. The stout crotch represented
+at (_a_) is rested on the summit of a strong peg, driven into the
+ground beneath the _outside edge_ of the suspended log; (_b_) is
+the treacherous stick which seals the doom of any animal that dares
+rest his foot upon it. This piece should be long enough to stretch
+across and overlap the guard-pegs at each side of the opening. To
+set the trap, rest the short crotch of (_a_) on the top of the
+peg, and lower the log upon it, keeping the leverage slight, as
+directed in our last example, letting much of the weight come on the
+[Page 114]
+top of the peg. The long arm of the crotch should be pressed inward
+from the front, and one end of the stick (_b_) should then be caught
+between its extreme tip, and the upright peg about ten inches above
+the ground. By now fastening the bait to a peg at the back part of
+the pen, the affair is in working order, and will be found perfectly
+reliable. The ground log (_d_) being rested in place as seen in
+the illustration. To make assurance doubly sure, it is well to cut
+a slight notch in the upright stick at (_c_) for the reception of
+the foot-piece (_b_). By this precaution the stick, when lowered,
+is bound to sink at the right end, thus ensuring success.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Figure-Four Trap, already described in another part of this
+book, is also well adapted to the dead-fall, and is much used.
+It should be made of stout pieces and erected at the opening of
+the pen, with the bait pointing toward the interior, the heavy
+log being poised on its summit.
+
+
+THE GARROTE.
+
+There is another variety of trap, somewhat resembling the dead-fall,
+but which seizes its prey in a little different manner.
+[Page 115]
+This trap, which we will call the _Garrote_, is truly represented
+by our illustration. A pen is first constructed, similar to that of
+the dead-fall. At the opening of the pen, two arches are fastened
+in the ground. They should be about an inch apart. A stout forked
+stick should then be cut, and firmly fixed in the earth at the
+side of the arches, and about three feet distant.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our main illustration gives the general appearance of the trap,
+but we also subjoin an additional cut, showing the "setting" or
+arrangement of the pieces. They are three in number, and consist:
+First, of a notched peg, which is driven into the ground at the back
+part of the pen, and a little to one side. Second, of a forked twig,
+the branch of which should point downward with the bait attached to
+its end. The third stick being the little hooked piece catching
+beneath the arches. The first of these is too simple to need
+description. The second should be about eight inches long; a notch
+should be cut in each end. The upper one being on the side from
+which the branch projects, and the other on the _opposite_ side
+of the stick, and at the other end, as is made plain by our
+illustration. The third stick may consist merely of a hooked crotch
+of some twig, as this is always to be found. Indeed, nearly _all_
+the parts of this trap may be found in any woods; and, with the
+exception of a jack-knife, bait, and string, the trapper need not
+trouble himself to carry any materials whatever. When the three
+pieces are thus made the trap only awaits the "Garrote." This should
+be made from a stiff pole, about six feet in length, having a heavy
+stone tied to its large end, and a loop of the shape of the letter
+U, or a slipping noose, made of stout cord or wire, fastened
+[Page 116]
+at the smaller end. To arrange the pieces for their destructive
+work, the pole should be bent down so that the loop shall fall
+between the arches. The "crotch stick" should then be hooked beneath
+the front of the arch, letting its arm point inward. After this
+the bait stick should be placed in its position, with the bait
+pointing downward, letting one end catch beneath the notch in the
+ground-peg, and the other over the tip of the crotch stick. This
+done, and the trap is set.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Like the dead-fall, the bait stick should point toward the side
+of the pen, as the turning involved in pulling it toward the front
+is positively _sure_ to slip it loose from its catches. Be careful
+to see that the loop is nicely arranged between the arches, and that
+the top of the pen is covered with a few twigs. If these directions
+are carefully followed, and if the young trapper has selected a
+good trapping ground, it will not be a matter of many days before
+he will discover the upper portion of the arches occupied by some
+rabbit, muskrat, or other unlucky creature, either standing on its
+hind legs, or lifted clean off the ground. Coons are frequently
+secured by this trap, although, as a general thing, they don't
+show much enthusiasm over traps of any kind, and seem to prefer
+to get their food elsewhere, rather than take it off the end of
+a bait stick.
+
+
+THE BOW TRAP.
+
+This most excellent and unique machine is an invention of the author's,
+and possesses great advantages, both on account of its durability
+and of the speedy death which it inflicts.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Procure a board about two feet in length, by five or six in width,
+and commencing at about nine inches from one end, cut a hole four
+or more inches square. This may readily be done with a narrow saw,
+by first boring a series of gimlet holes in which to insert it.
+There will now be nine inches of board on one side of the hole
+and eleven on the other. The shorter end constituting the top of
+the trap. On the upper edge of the hole
+[Page 117]
+a row of stout tin teeth should be firmly tacked, as seen in the
+illustration. On the other side of the cavity, and three inches
+from it a small auger hole (the size of a lead pencil), should
+be bored. After which it should be sand-papered and polished on
+the interior, by rubbing with some smooth, hard tool, inserted
+inside. A round plug of wood should next be prepared. Let it be
+about half an inch in length, being afterwards bevelled nearly
+the whole length of one side, as shown at (_b_), leaving a little
+over an eighth of an inch of the wood unwhittled. This little piece
+of wood is the most important part, of the trap, and should be made
+very carefully. The remaining end of the board below the auger
+hole should now be whittled off to a point, in order that it may be
+driven into the ground. The next requisites consist of two pieces
+of wood, which are seen at the sides of the square hole, in our
+illustration, and also seen at (_c_), side view. These
+[Page 118]
+pieces should be about six inches in length and about an inch square.
+A thin piece being cut off from one side of each, to the distance
+of four inches, and ending in a square notch. The other end should
+be rounded off, as is also there plainly indicated. Before adjusting
+the pieces in place, two tin catches should be fastened to the
+board, one on each side of the hole. This catch is shown at (_d_),
+and consists merely of a piece of tin, half an inch in width, and
+three-quarters of an inch in length, tacked to the wood, and having
+its end raised, as indicated. Its object is to hold the bow-string
+from being pulled down after once passing it. The upper edge of
+these catch-pieces should be about an inch and a half from the top
+of the hole, and, if desired, two or three of them may be arranged
+one above the other, so that wherever the string may stop against
+the neck of the inmate it will be sure to hold. The catches being
+in place, proceed to adjust the pieces of wood, letting the notch
+be on a line with the top of the pole, or a little above it. Each
+piece should be fastened with two screws to make secure.
+
+We will now give our attention to the bait stick. This should be
+about six inches in length, and square, as our illustration shows.
+There are two ways of attaching the bait-stick to the board, both
+shown at (_e_) and (_f_). The former consists merely of a screw
+eye inserted into the end of the stick, afterwards hinged to the
+board by a wire staple. The point for the hinge, in this case,
+should be about an inch below the auger hole. In the other method
+(_f_), the bait stick should be a half inch longer, and the spot
+for the hinge a quarter inch lower. At about a quarter of an inch
+from the square end of the bait stick a small hole should be made
+by the use of a hot wire. An oblong mortice should next be cut
+in the board, so as to receive this end of the stick easily. A
+stout bit of wire should then be inserted in the little hole in
+the stick, and laying this across the centre of the mortice, it
+should be thus secured by two staples, as the drawing shows. This
+forms a very neat and simple hinge. To determine the place for
+the catch, insert the flat end of the little plug fairly into the
+auger-hole above the hinge. Draw up the bait stick, and at the
+point where it comes in contact with the point of the plug, cut
+a square notch, as shown in (_b_). Everything now awaits the bow.
+This should be of hickory or other stout wood; it is well to have
+it seasoned, although a stout sapling will answer the purpose very
+well. It should be fastened to the top of the board by two heavy
+staples, or nails driven on each side of it. The string should
+be _heavy_ Indian twine. Our
+[Page 119]
+illustration shows the trap, as it appears when ready for business.
+The plug is inserted, as already described, with the bevelled face
+downward, and square end in the hole. Draw down the bow-string and
+pass it beneath the plug, at the same time catching the tip of
+the latter in the notch of the bait stick. If properly constructed
+the string will thus rest on the slight uncut portion of the under
+side of the peg, and the trap is thus set. If the bait is pushed
+when approached, the notch is forced off from the plug, and the
+string flies up with a _twang!_ securing the neck of its victim,
+and producing almost instant death. If the bait is _pulled_, the
+bait stick thus forces the plug into the hole in the board, and
+thus slides the cord on to the bevel, which immediately releases
+it, and the bow is sprung. So that no matter whether the bait is
+pushed or drawn towards the front, the trap is equally sure to
+spring.
+
+In setting this curious machine, it is only necessary to insert
+it into the ground, and surround the bait with a slight pen, in
+order that it may not be approached from behind. By now laying a
+stone or a pile of sticks in front of the affair, so that the bait
+may be more readily reached, the thing is ready. Care is required
+in setting to arrange the pieces delicately. The plug should be
+_very slightly_ inserted into the auger hole, and the notch in
+the bait stick should be as small as possible, and hold. All this
+is made clear in our illustration (_b_).
+
+By observing these little niceties the trap becomes very sure and
+sensitive.
+
+Bait with small apple, nub of corn, or the like.
+
+
+THE MOLE TRAP.
+
+If there is anyone subject upon which the ingenuity of the farmers
+has been taxed, it is on the invention of a mole trap which would
+effectually clear their premises of these blind burrowing vermin.
+Many patented devices of this character are on the market, and
+many odd pictured ideas on the subject have gone the rounds of
+the illustrated press, but they all sink into insignificance when
+tested beside the trap we here present. It has no equal among mole
+traps, and it can be made with the utmost ease and without cost.
+The principle on which it works is the same as the Fish Trap on
+page 120.
+
+Construct a hollow wooden tube about five inches in diameter, and
+eight inches in length. A section of a small tree, neatly excavated
+with a large auger is just the thing. Through
+[Page 120]
+the centre of one of the sides a small hole the size of a lead
+pencil should be bored, this being the upper side. About half an
+inch distant from each end a smaller hole should be made for the
+passage of the noose. The spring should consist either of a stout
+steel rod, whalebone or stiff sapling, a foot or more in length,
+inserted downward through holes in the side of the tube after the
+manner of the Fish Trap already alluded to. No bait is required.
+A simple stick the size of the central hole at one end, and an
+inch in width at the other being sufficient. The trap is set as
+described in the other instances, and as the introduction of the
+spindle-stick is sometimes attended with difficulty owing to its
+position inside the trap, the bottom of the latter is sometimes
+cut away for two or three inches to facilitate the operation. The
+trap is then to be imbedded within the burrow of the mole. Find
+a fresh tunnel and carefully remove the sod above it. Insert the
+trap and replace the turf. The first mole that starts on his rounds
+through that burrow is a sure prisoner, no matter from which side
+he may approach.
+
+Immense numbers of these troublesome vermin have been taken in a
+single season by a dozen such traps, and they possess great advantages
+over all other mole traps on account of their simplicity and unfailing
+success.
+
+
+A FISH TRAP.
+
+Our list of traps would be incomplete without a Fish Trap, and
+although we have mentioned some contrivances in this line under
+our article on "Fishing" we here present one which is both new
+and novel.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Its mode of construction is exactly similar to the Double Box Snare,
+page (57). A section of stove-pipe one foot in length should first
+be obtained. Through the iron at a point equidistant from the ends,
+a hole should be made with some smooth, sharp pointed instrument,
+the latter being forced _outward_ from the _inside_ of the pipe,
+thus causing the ragged edge of the hole to appear on the outside,
+as seen in our illustration. The diameter of the aperture
+[Page 121]
+should be about that of a lead pencil. Considering this as the _upper
+side_ of the pipe, proceed to pierce two more hole's _downward_
+through the side of the circumference, for the admission of a stout
+stick or steel rod. This is fully explained in our illustration. The
+further arrangement of bait stick and nooses is exactly identical
+with that described on page (57). It may be set for suckers, pickerel,
+and fish of like size, the bait stick being inserted with sufficient
+firmness to withstand the attacks of smaller fish. The bait should
+be firmly tied to the stick, or the latter supplied with two hooks
+at the end on which it should be firmly impaled. To set the trap,
+select a locality abounding in fish. Place a stone inside the bottom
+of the pipe, insert the bait stick and arrange the nooses.
+
+By now quietly grasping the curve of the switch the trap may be
+easily lowered to the bottom. The bait soon attracts a multitude
+of small fishes; these in turn attract the pickerel to the spot,
+and before many minutes the trap is sprung and may be raised from
+the water with its prisoner. This odd device is an invention of
+the author's, and it is as successful as it is unique.
+
+[Illustration: Maternal advice.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 123]
+[Illustration: HOUSEHOLD TRAPS]
+
+
+[Page 125]
+BOOK V.
+
+HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.
+
+[Illustration: F]or the most effectual domestic trap on record
+see our page title to this section. There are several others also
+which have done good service in many households, and for the sake
+of pestered housekeepers generally, we devote a corner of our volume
+for their especial benefit.
+
+Foremost in the list of domestic pests the rat stands pre-eminent,
+and his proverbial shrewdness and cunning render his capture often
+a very difficult, if not an impossible task. We subjoin, however,
+a few hints and suggestions of practical value, together with some
+perfected ideas in the shape of traps, by which the average rat
+may be easily outwitted and led to his destruction.
+
+First on the list is
+
+
+THE BARREL TRAP.
+
+This most ingenious device possesses great advantages in its
+capabilities of securing an almost unlimited number of the vermin
+in quick succession. It also takes care of itself, requires no
+re-baiting or setting after once put in working order, and is sure
+death to its prisoners.
+
+A water-tight barrel is the first thing required. Into this pour
+water to the depth of a foot. Next dampen a piece of very thick
+paper, and stretch it over the top of the barrel, tying it securely
+below the upper hoops. When the paper dries it will become thoroughly
+flat and tightened. Its surface should then be strewn with bits
+of cheese, etc., and the barrel so placed
+[Page 126]
+that the rats may jump upon it from some neighboring surface. As
+soon as the bait is gone, a fresh supply should be spread on the
+paper and the same operation repeated for several days, until the
+rats get accustomed to visit the place for their regular rations,
+fearlessly and without suspicion. This is "half the battle," and
+the capture of the greedy victims of misplaced confidence is now
+an easy matter. The bait should again be spread as before and a
+few pieces of the cheese should be attached to the paper with gum.
+It is a good plan to smear parts of the paper with gum arabic,
+sprinkling the bait upon it. When dry, cut a cross in the middle
+of the paper, as seen in the illustration, and leave the barrel
+to take care of itself and the rats. The first one comes along,
+spies the tempting morsels, and with his accustomed confidence,
+jumps upon the paper. He suddenly finds himself in the water at
+the bottom of the barrel, and the paper above has closed and is
+ready to practice its deception on the next comer. There is not
+long to wait. A second victim soon tumbles in to keep company with
+the first. A third and a fourth soon follow, and a dozen or more
+[Page 127]
+are sometimes thus entrapped in a very short space of time. It is a
+most excellent and simple trap, and if properly managed, will most
+effectually curtail the number of rats in any pestered neighborhood.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+By some, it is considered an improvement to place in the bottom
+of the barrel a large stone, which shall project above the water
+sufficiently to offer a foothold for one rat. The first victim,
+of course, takes possession of this retreat and on the precipitate
+arrival of the second a contest ensues for its occupancy. The hubbub
+which follows is said to attract all the rats in the neighborhood
+to the spot, and many are thus captured.
+
+We can hardly recommend the addition of the stone as being an
+improvement. The rat is a most notoriously shrewd and cunning animal,
+and the despairing cries of his comrades must rather tend to excite
+his caution and suspicion. By the first method the drowning is soon
+accomplished and the rat utters no sound whereby to attract and
+warn his fellows. This contrivance has been thoroughly tested and
+has proved its efficacy in many households by completely ridding
+the premises of the vermin.
+
+Another excellent form of Barrel Trap is that embodying the principle
+described in page (131). A circular platform should be first constructed
+and hinged in the opening of the barrel This may be done by driving
+a couple of small nails through the sides of the barrel into a
+couple of staples inserted near the opposite edges of the platform.
+The latter should be delicately weighted, as described on the above
+mentioned page, and previously to setting, should be baited in a
+stationary position for several days to gain the confidence of
+the rats. The bait should at last be secured to the platform with
+gum, and the bottom of the barrel of course filled with water, as
+already described. This trap possesses the same advantages as the
+foregoing. It is _self-setting_, and unfailing in its action.
+
+Another method consists in half-filling the barrel with oats, and
+allowing the rats to enjoy their repast there for several days.
+When thus attracted to the spot, remove the oats, and pour the same
+bulk of water into the barrel, sprinkling the surface thickly with
+the grain. The delusion is almost perfect, as will be effectually
+proven when the first rat visits the spot for his accustomed free
+lunch. Down he goes with a splash, is soon drowned, and sinks to
+the bottom. The next shares the same fate, and several more are
+likely to be added to the list of misguided victims.
+
+[Page 128]
+Many of the devices described throughout this work may be adapted
+for domestic use to good purpose. The box-trap page 103, box-snare,
+page 55, figure-four, page 107, are all suitable for the capture
+of the rat; also, the examples given on pages 106, 109, 110, and
+129.
+
+The steel-trap is often used, but should always be concealed from
+view. It is a good plan to set it in a pan covered with meal, and
+placed in the haunts of the rats. The trap may also be set at the
+mouth of the rats' hole, and covered with a piece of dark-colored
+cloth or paper. The runways between boxes, boards, and the like
+offer excellent situations for the trap, which should be covered,
+as before directed.
+
+Without one precaution, however, the trap may be set in vain. Much
+of the so-called shrewdness of the rat is nothing more than an
+instinctive caution, through the acute sense of smell which the
+animal possesses; and a trap which has secured one victim will
+seldom extend its list, unless all traces of its first occupant
+are thoroughly eradicated. This may be accomplished by smoking
+the trap over burning paper, hens' feathers or chips, taking care
+to avoid a heat so extreme as to affect the temper of the steel
+springs. All rat-traps should be treated the same way, in order to
+insure success, and the position and localities of setting should
+be frequently changed.
+
+
+THE BOX DEAD-FALL.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This trap is an old invention, simplified by the author, and for
+the capture of rats and mice will prove very effectual. It consists
+of a box, constructed of four slabs of 3-4 inch boarding, and open
+at both ends. The two side boards should be 10 x 18 inches; top
+and bottom boards, 6 x 18 inches. For the centre of the latter,
+a square piece should be removed by the aid of the saw. The width
+of this piece should be four inches, and the length eight inches.
+Before nailing the boards together, the holes thus left in the
+bottom board should be supplied with a treadle platform, working
+on central side pivots. The board for this treadle should be much
+thinner and lighter than the rest of the trap, and should fit loosely
+in place, its surface being slightly below the level of the bottom
+board. This is shown in the interior of the trap. The pivots should
+be inserted in the exact centre of the sides, through holes made
+in the edge of the bottom board. These holes may be bored with
+a gimlet or burned with a red-hot wire. The pivots may
+[Page 129]
+consist of stout brass or iron wire; and the end of one should
+be flattened with the hammer, as seen in (_a_). This pivot should
+project an inch from the wood, and should be _firmly_ inserted
+in the treadle-piece. The platform being thus arranged, proceed
+to fasten the boards together, as shown in the illustration, the
+top and bottom boards overlapping the others. We will now give
+our attention to the stick shown at (_b_). This should be whittled
+from a piece of hard wood, its length being three inches, and its
+upper end pointed as seen. The lower end should be pierced with a
+crevice, which should then be forced over the flattened extremity
+of the point (_a_) as shown at (_c_), pointed end uppermost. The
+weight (_a_) is next in order. This should consist of a heavy oak
+plank two inches in thickness, and of such other dimensions as will
+allow it to fit loosely in the box, and fall from top to bottom
+therein without catching between two sides. A stout staple should
+be driven in the centre of its upper face, and from this a stout
+string should be passed upward through a hole in the centre of
+the box. We are now ready for the spindle (_e_). This should be
+about three inches in length, and bluntly pointed
+[Page 130]
+at each end, a notch being made to secure it at a point five inches
+above the pivot (_c_). To set the trap, raise the weight, as seen
+in the illustration; draw down the string to the point (_e_), and
+attach it to the spindle one-half an inch from its upper end, which
+should then be inserted in the notch, the lower end being caught
+against the extremity of the pivot stick. The parts are now adjusted,
+and even in the present state the trap is almost sure to spring at
+the slightest touch on the treadle-piece. An additional precaution
+is advisable, however. Two small wooden pegs (_f_) should be driven,
+one on each side of the spindle, thus preventing any side-movement
+of the latter. It will now be readily seen that the slightest weight
+on either end of the treadle-piece within the trap must tilt it
+to one side, thus throwing the pivot-piece from its bearing on
+the spindle; and the latter being released, lets fall the weight
+with crushing effect upon the back of its hapless victim.
+
+The trap is very effective, and is easily constructed. The bait
+should be rested in the centre of the treadle platform. Built on
+a larger scale, this device may be successfully adapted to the
+capture of the mink, martien, and many other varieties of game.
+
+
+THE BOARD-FLAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 131]
+For the capture of mice this is both a simple and effective contrivance,
+and it may be enlarged so as to be of good service for larger animals.
+Procure two boards, one foot square and one inch thick, and secure
+them together by two hinges, as in the illustration. Assuming one
+as the upper board, proceed to bore a gimlet hole three inches
+from the hinges. This is for the reception of the bait stick, and
+should be cut away on the inside, as seen in the section (_a_),
+thus allowing a free play for the stick. Directly beneath this
+aperture, and in the lower board, a large auger hole should be made.
+A stout bit of iron wire, ten inches in length, is now required.
+This should be inserted perpendicularly in the further end of the
+lower slab, being bent into a curve which shall slide easily through
+a gimlet hole in the edge of the upper board. This portion is very
+important, and should be carefully constructed. The bait stick
+should be not more than three inches in length, supplied with a
+notch in its upper end, and secured in the aperture in the board by
+the aid of a pivot and staples, as is clearly shown in our drawing.
+The spindle is next in order. It should consist of a light piece
+of pine eight and a half inches in length, and brought to an edge
+at each end. A tack should now be driven at the further edge of
+the upper board on a line with the aperture through which the wire
+passes. Our illustration represents the trap as it appears when
+set. The upper band is raised to the full limit of the wire. One
+end of the spindle is now adjusted beneath the head of the tack,
+and the other in the notch in the bait stick. The wire thus supports
+the suspended board by sustaining the spindle, which is held in
+equilibrium. A slight touch on the bait stick soon destroys this
+equilibrium: a flap ensues, and a dead mouse is the result. The
+object of the auger hole in the lower board consists in affording a
+receptacle for the bait when the boards come together, as otherwise
+it would defeat its object, by offering an obstruction to the fall
+of the board, and thus allow its little mouse to escape.
+
+It is, therefore, an essential part of the trap, and should be carefully
+tested before being finally set.
+
+
+THE BOX PIT-FALL.
+
+We now come to a variety of trap which differs in its construction
+from any previously described. It secures its victims alive, and
+without harm, and, when well made, is very successful.
+[Page 132]
+It may be set for squirrels, chipmunks, rats, mice, and the like,
+and on a large scale for muskrats and mink.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The trap is very easily made, and is represented in section in
+our illustration, showing the height and interior of the box. For
+ordinary purposes the box should be about twelve or fourteen inches
+square, with a depth of about eighteen inches. A platform consisting
+of a piece of tin should then be procured. This should be just
+large enough to fit nicely to the outline of the interior of the
+box without catching. On two opposite sides of this piece of tin,
+and at the middle of each of those sides, a small strip of the
+same material should be wired, or soldered in the form of a loop,
+as shown in the separate diagram at (_b_). These loops should be
+only large enough to admit the end of a shingle-nail. A scratch
+should now be made across the tin from loop to loop, and on the
+centre of this scratch another and larger strip of tin should be
+fastened in a similar manner as shown in our diagram, at (_a_),
+this being for the balance weight. The
+[Page 133]
+latter may consist of a small stone, piece of lead, or the like,
+and should be suspended by means of a wire bent around it, and
+secured in a hole in the tin by a bend or knot in the other extremity.
+Further explanations are almost superfluous, as our main illustration
+fully explains itself.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+After the weight is attached, the platform should be secured in
+its place, about five inches from the top of the box. To accomplish
+this and form the hinges, two shingle-nails should be driven through
+the side of the box into the tin loops prepared for them. To do
+this nicely requires some considerable accuracy and care, and it
+should be so done that the platform will swing with perfect freedom
+and ease, the weight below bringing it to a horizontal poise after
+a few vibrations. Care should be taken that the weight is not too
+heavy, as, in such a case, the platform will not be sensitive on its
+balance, and, consequently, would not work so quickly and surely.
+The weight should be _just heavy enough_ to restore the platform
+to its perfect poise, and no more. This can be easily regulated
+by experiment. The bait should then be strewn on both sides of the
+platform, when the trap is set, and the luckless animal, jumping
+after the bait, feels his footing give way, and suddenly finds
+himself in the bottom of a dark box, from which it is impossible
+for him to escape except by gnawing his way out. To prevent this,
+the interior of the box may be lined with tin.
+
+By _fastening_ the bait--a small lump or piece--on each side of
+the tin, the trap will continually reset itself, and, in this way,
+two or three individuals may be taken, one after the other. Muskrats
+are frequently caught in this trap, it being generally buried in
+the ground so that its top is on a level with the surface. In this
+case it is necessary to arrange the platform lower down in the
+box, and the latter should be of much larger dimensions than the
+one we have described.
+
+[Page 134]
+For ordinary purposes the box should either be set in the ground or
+placed near some neighboring object which will afford easy access
+to it. No less than a dozen rats have been caught in a trap of
+this kind in a single night.
+
+
+CAGE TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The common cage trap is well known to most of our readers, and for
+the capture of rats and mice, it is one of the most efficacious
+devices in existence. The construction of one of these traps is
+quite a difficult operation, and we would hesitate before advising
+our inventive reader to exercise his patience and ingenuity in the
+manufacture of an article which can be bought for such a small
+price, and which, after all, is only a mouse trap. If it were a
+device for the capture of the _mink_ or _otter_, it might then be
+well worth the trouble, and would be likely to repay the time and
+labor expended upon it. We imagine that few would care to exercise
+their skill over a trap of such complicated structure, while our
+pages are filled with other simpler and equally effective examples.
+
+For the benefit, however, of such as are of an inventive turn of
+mind, we subjoin an illustration of the trap to serve as a guide.
+The principle upon which it works is very simple. The bait is
+[Page 135]
+strewn inside the cage, and the rats or mice find their only access
+to it through the hole at the top. The wires here converge at the
+bottom, and are pointed at the ends. The passage downwards is an
+easy matter, but to _escape_ through the same opening is impossible,
+as the pointed ends of the wires effectually prevent the ascent.
+It is a notable fact, however, that the efforts to escape through
+this opening are very seldom made. The mode of entering seems to
+be absolutely forgotten by the captive animals, and they rush
+frantically about the cage, prying between all the wires in their
+wild endeavors, never seeming to notice the central opening by which
+they entered. This is easily explained by the fact that the open
+grating admits the light from all sides, and the enclosed victims
+are thus attracted to no one spot in particular, and naturally rush
+to the extreme edges of the trap, in the hope of finding an exit.
+
+If a thick cloth be placed over the cage, leaving the opening at
+the top uncovered, the confined creatures are soon attracted by
+the light, and lose no time in rushing towards it, where their
+endeavors to ascend are effectually checked by the pointed wires.
+Profiting by this experiment, the author once improvised a simple
+trap on the same principle, which proved very effectual. We will
+call it
+
+
+THE JAR TRAP.
+
+In place of the wire cage, a glass preserve-jar was substituted.
+A few bits of cheese were then dropped inside, and the top of a
+funnel inserted into the opening above. This completed the trap,
+and it was set on the floor near the flour barrel. On the following
+morning the jar was occupied by a little mouse, and each successive
+night for a week added one to the list of victims. A stiff piece
+of tin, bent into the required shape, may be substituted for the
+funnel top, or even a very heavy piece of pasteboard might answer.
+
+
+BOWL TRAPS.
+
+Very effective extempore traps may be set up in a few minutes by
+the use of a few bowls. There are two methods commonly employed.
+One consists of the bowl and a knife-blade. An ordinary tableknife
+is used and a piece of cheese is firmly forced on to the end of
+the blade, the bowl is then balanced on the edge, allowing the
+bait to project about an inch and a half beneath the bowl. The odor
+of cheese will attract a mouse almost anywhere, and he soon finds
+[Page 136]
+his way to the tempting morsel in this case. A very slight nibble
+is sufficient to tilt the blade and the bowl falls over its prisoner.
+
+In the second method a thimble is used in place of the knife. The
+cheese is forced into its interior, and the open end of the thimble
+inserted far beneath the bowl, allowing about half its length to
+project outward.
+
+The mouse is thus obliged to pass under the bowl in order to reach
+the bait, and in his efforts to grasp the morsel, the thimble is
+dislodged and the captive secured beneath the vessel. Where a small
+thimble is used, it becomes necessary to place a bit of pasteboard
+or flat chip beneath it, in order to raise it sufficiently to afford
+an easy passage for the mouse. Both of these devices are said to
+work excellently.
+
+
+FLY PAPER.
+
+A sheet of common paper, smeared with a mixture composed of molasses
+one part, and bird-lime six parts (see page 97), will be found to
+attract large numbers of flies and hold them prisoners upon its
+surface.
+
+Spruce gum, warmed on the fire, and mixed with a little linseed
+oil, is also excellent. For a genuine fly trap, the following stands
+unrivalled.
+
+
+FLY TRAP.
+
+Take a tumbler, and half-fill it with strong soap suds. Cut a circle
+of stiff paper which will exactly fit into the top of the glass.
+In the centre of the paper cut a hole half an inch in diameter,
+or, better still, a slice of bread may be placed on the glass.
+Smear one side of the disc with molasses, and insert it in the
+tumbler with this side downward. Swarms of flies soon surround
+it, and one by one find their way downward through the hole. Once
+below the paper, and their doom is sealed. For a short time the
+molasses absorbs their attention, and they, in turn, absorb the
+molasses.
+
+In their efforts to escape, they one by one precipitate themselves
+in the soap suds below, where they speedily perish. The tumbler
+is soon half-filled with the dead insects, and where a number of
+the traps are set in a single room, the apartment is soon ridden
+of the pests.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 137]
+BOOK VI.
+
+STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.
+
+[Illustration: P]assing from our full and extended illustrated list
+of extempore, or "rough and ready" examples of the trap kind, we
+will now turn our attention to the consideration of that well-known
+implement, the trade _steel_ trap. Although the foregoing varieties
+often serve to good purpose, the Steel Trap is the principal device
+used by professional trappers, and possesses great advantages over
+all other traps. It is portable, sets easily and quickly, either on
+land or beneath the water; can be concealed with ease; secures its
+victims without injury to their fur, and by the application of the
+spring or sliding pole (hereafter described) will most effectually
+prevent the captive from making his escape by self-amputation, besides
+placing him beyond the reach of destruction by other animals.
+
+The author has known trappers who have plied their vocation largely
+by the aid of the various hand made traps, described in the earlier
+pages of this book, and with good success. But in the regular _business_
+of systematic trapping, their extensive use is not common. The
+experience of modern trappers generally, warrants the assertion
+that for practical utility, from every point of view, the steel
+trap stands unrivalled.
+
+These traps are made of all sizes, from that suitable for the capture
+of the house rat, to the immense and wieldy machine adapted to the
+grizzly, and known as the "bear tamer."
+
+They may be bought at almost any hardware shop, although a large
+portion of the traps ordinarily sold are defective. They should
+be selected with care, and the springs always tested
+[Page 138]
+before purchase. Besides the temper of the spring, there are also
+other necessary qualities in a steel trap, which we subjoin in
+order that the amateur may know how to judge and select his weapons
+judiciously.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+REQUISITES OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.
+
+1. _The jaws should not be too thin nor sharp cornered_. In the
+cheaper class of steel traps the jaws approach to the thinness
+of sheet-iron, and the result is that the thin edges often sever
+the leg of their would-be captive in a single stroke. At other
+times the leg is so deeply cut as to easily enable the animal to
+gnaw or twist it off. This is the common mode of escape, with many
+animals.
+
+2. _The pan should not be too large_. This is a very common fault
+with many steel traps and often defeats its very object. Where the
+pan is small, the foot of the animal in pressing it, will be directly
+in the centre of the snap of the jaw, and he is thus firmly secured
+far up on the leg. On the other hand, a large pan nearly filling
+the space between the jaws as the trap is set, may be sprung by a
+touch on its extreme edge, and the animal's toe is thus likely to
+get slightly pinched, if indeed the paw is not thrown off altogether
+by the forcible snap of the jaw.
+
+3. _The springs should be strong, scientifically tempered, and
+proportioned_. The strength of a perfectly tempered spring will
+always remain the same, whether in winter or summer, never losing
+its elasticity. The best of tempering, however, is useless in a
+spring badly formed or clumsily tapered.
+
+4. The jaws should be so curved as to give the bow of the spring
+a proper sweep to work upon. The jaws should lie _flat_ when open,
+and should always work easily on their hinges.
+
+5. Every trap should be furnished with a strong chain with ring and
+swivel attached, and in every case the swivel should turn easily.
+
+The celebrated "Newhouse Trap" embodies all the above requisites,
+and has deservedly won a reputation for excellence second to no
+other in this or any other country.
+
+They are made in eight sizes, as follows:
+
+[Illustration: No. 0.]
+
+This is the smallest size and is known as the RAT TRAP. It has a
+single spring, and the jaws spread three and a half inches when
+set.
+
+[Page 139]
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 141]
+[Illustration: No. 1.]
+
+This size is called the MUSKRAT TRAP, and the jaws spread four
+inches. It is especially designed for the capture of the mink, marten,
+and animals of similar size.
+
+[Illustration: No. 2.]
+
+This is known in the trade as the MINK TRAP, and the jaws spread
+nearly five inches. It is adapted for the fox, raccoon, or fisher.
+
+[Illustration: No. 2-1/2.]
+
+This size is called the FOX TRAP. The spread of the jaws is the
+same as in the foregoing, but the trap is provided with two springs,
+and consequently has double the power. It is strong enough for
+the otter, and is generally used for the capture of the fox and
+fisher.
+
+[Illustration: No. 3.]
+
+No.3 goes by the name of the OTTER TRAP. The jaws spread five and
+a half inches, and the powerful double springs do excellent service
+in the capture of the beaver, fox, badger, opossum, wild cat, and
+animals of like size.
+
+[Illustration: No. 4.]
+
+Commonly called the BEAVER TRAP. Jaws spread six and a half inches.
+This size is especially adapted to the wolf, lynx or wolverine. It
+may also be set for deer, and extra sets of jaws are made expressly
+for this purpose, being easily inserted in the place of the ordinary
+jaws, when desired.
+
+[Page 142]
+[Illustration: No. 6.]
+
+This is known as the "GREAT BEAR TAMER," and is a most formidable
+weapon. The jaws spread sixteen inches, and the weight of the machine
+is forty-two pounds. It is extensively used in the capture of the
+moose and grizzly bear, and is the largest and most powerful steel
+trap made in this or any other country. The springs possess most
+tremendous power, and require to be set by a lever, as the weight
+of an ordinary man has not the slightest effect upon them. This
+lever may be easily applied, as follows: Have at hand four stout
+straps, supplied with buckles. These should always be carried by
+the trapper, where the larger double-spring traps are used. To
+adjust the lever, cut four heavy sticks about three feet long.
+Take two of them and secure their ends together, side by side,
+with one of the straps. Now insert the spring of the trap between
+them, near the strap. Bear down heavily on the other extremity of
+the lever, and the spring will be found to yield easily, after
+which the remaining ends of the levers should be secured by a second
+strap. The other spring should now be treated in the same way,
+after which the jaws should be spread and the pan adjusted. The
+removal of the straps and levers is now an easy matter, after which
+[Page 143]
+the trap is set. The stoutest spring is easily made to yield by such
+treatment.
+
+[Illustration: No. 5.]
+
+The SMALL BEAR TRAP. The jaws of this size spread nearly a foot,
+and the weight of the trap is seventeen pounds. It is used in the
+capture of the black bear, puma, and animals of similar size.
+
+All of the foregoing are supplied with swivels and chains.
+
+
+HINTS ON BAITING THE STEEL TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is a very common and erroneous idea current among amateur
+sportsmen and others in regard to the baiting of the steel trap;
+viz., that the pan of the trap is intended for the _bait_. This
+was the old custom in the traps of bygone times, but no modern
+trap is intended to be so misused, and would indeed often defeat
+its object in such a case, wherein it will be easily
+[Page 144]
+seen. The object of the professional trapper is the acquisition
+of furs; and a prime fur skin should be without break or bruise,
+from nose to tail. A trap set as above described, would of course
+catch its victim by the head or neck, and the fur would he more
+or less injured at the very spot where it should be particularly
+free from blemish.
+
+The true object of the steel trap is, that it shall take the animal
+by the _leg_, thus injuring the skin only in a part where it is
+totally valueless.
+
+We give, then, this imperative rule--_Never bait a steel trap on
+the pan_.
+
+The pan is intended for the _foot_ of the game, and in order to
+insure capture by this means, the bait should be so placed as that
+the attention of the animal will be _drawn away_ from the trap;
+the latter being in such a position as will cause the victim to
+_step in it_ when reaching for the tempting allurement.
+
+There are several ways of doing this, one of which we here illustrate.
+
+A pen of stakes, in the shape of the letter V, is first constructed.
+The trap is then set in the angle, and the bait attached to the
+end stake directly over it. Another method is shown in the picture
+on our title-page to this section, the bait being suspended on a
+stick above the trap. There are various other methods on the same
+principle, which will be described hereafter, under the titles of
+the various game.
+
+
+THE SPRING POLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is nearly always used in connection with the steel trap, in
+the capture of the smaller land animals. It not only lifts the
+creature into the air, and thus prevents its becoming a prey to
+other animals, but it also guards against the escape of the victim
+by the amputation of its own leg. This is a very common mode of
+release with many kinds of game--notably the mink, marten, and
+muskrat; and for the successful trapping of these, as well as many
+other animals, the spring and sliding pole are absolute necessities.
+It is a simple contrivance, consisting merely of a pole inserted
+in the ground near the trap. The pole is then bent down, and the
+trap chain secured to its end. A small, notched peg is next driven
+into the ground and the top of the pole caught in it, and thus
+held in a bent position. When the animal is caught, its struggles
+release the pole, and the latter, flying up with a jerk,
+[Page 145]
+lifts the trap and its occupant high in the air, out of the reach
+of marauders, and beyond the power of escape by self-amputation.
+Even in the capture of large game the spring pole often serves to
+good purpose. The struggles of a heavy animal are often so violent
+as to break a stout trap or chain; and the force of the spring
+pole, although not sufficient to raise the animal from its feet,
+often succeeds in easing the strain, and often thus saves a trap
+from being broken to pieces. The power of the pole must of course
+be proportionate to the weight of the desired game.
+
+
+
+THE SLIDING POLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first impulse with almost every aquatic animal when caught in
+a trap, is to plunge headlong into deep water. With the smaller
+animals, such as the mink and muskrat, this is all that is desired by
+the trapper, as the weight of the trap with the chain is sufficient
+to drown its victim. But with larger animals, the beaver and otter
+for instance, an additional precaution, in the shape of the "sliding
+pole," is necessary. This consists of a pole about ten feet long,
+smoothly trimmed of its branches, excepting at the tip, where a
+few stubs should be left. Insert this end obliquely into the bed
+of the stream, where the water is
+[Page 146]
+deep, and secure the large end to the bank by means of a hooked
+stick, as seen in our illustration. The ring of the chain should
+be large enough to slide easily down the entire length of the pole.
+When the trap is set, the ring should be slipped on the large end
+of the pole, and held in place by resting a stick against it. The
+animal, when caught, plunges off into deep water, and guided by
+the pole, is led to the bottom of the river. The ring slides down
+to the bed of the stream, and there holds its victim until drowned.
+
+
+THE CLOG.
+
+A trap which is set for heavy game should never be secured to a
+stake. Many of the larger and more powerful animals when caught
+in a trap thus secured, are apt either to pull or twist their legs
+off, or break both trap and chain to pieces. To guard against this,
+the chain should be weighted with a pole or small log, of a size
+proportionate to the dimensions of the game, its weight being merely
+sufficient to offer a serious incumbrance to the animal, without
+positively checking its movements. This impediment is called the
+"clog," and is usually attached to the ring of the trap chain by
+its larger end, the ring being slipped over the latter, and secured
+in place by a wedge. A look at our frontispiece will give a clear
+idea of both clog and attachment.
+
+
+[Page 147]
+THE GRAPPLING IRON.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This answers the same purpose as the above, and is often used instead.
+It is manufactured in connection with the larger steel traps, and
+is attached to the chain by a swivel joint. Its general shape is
+shown in an engraving, and it offers a serious resistance to the
+victim, who endeavors to run away with it.
+
+
+THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING.
+
+The business of trapping for profit must be confined to the season
+between the first of October and the beginning of May, as furs
+of all kinds are worthless when taken during the other months of
+the year. The reason of this is obvious. A "_prime fur_" must be
+"_thick_" and "_full_," and as all our fur-bearing animals shed
+their heavy winter coats as warm weather approaches, it necessarily
+follows that the capture at this season would be unprofitable. As
+the autumn approaches the new growth appears, and the fur becomes
+thick and glossy. By the middle of October most furs are in their
+prime, but the heart of winter is the best time for general trapping.
+[Page 148]
+The furs of the mink, muskrat, fisher, marten and beaver are not in
+their perfect prime until this season. And _all_ other furs are
+_sure_ to be in good condition at this time.
+
+
+THE ART OF TRAPPING.
+
+From time immemorial, and in every nation of the world, the art
+of trapping has been more or less practised. By some as a means
+of supplying their wants in the shape of daily food, and by others
+for the purpose of merchandise or profit.
+
+To be a clever and successful trapper, much more is required than
+is generally supposed. The mere fact of a person's being able to
+set a trap cleverly and judiciously forms but a small part of his
+proficiency; and unless he enters deeper into the subject and learns
+something of the nature and habits of the animals he intends to
+catch, his traps will be set in vain, or at best meet with but
+indifferent success. The study of natural history here becomes
+a matter of necessity as well as pleasure and profit. And unless
+the trapper thoroughly acquaints himself with the habits of his
+various game, the sagacity and cunning of his intended victim will
+often outwit his most shrewd endeavors, much to his chagrin. The
+sense of smell, so largely developed in many animals, becomes one
+of the trappers most serious obstacles, and seems at times to amount
+almost to positive _reason_, so perfectly do the creatures baffle
+the most ingenious attempts of man in his efforts to capture them.
+A little insight into the ways of these artful animals, however,
+and a little experience with their odd tricks soon enables one
+to cope with them successfully and overcome their whims. For the
+benefit of the amateur who has not had the opportunity of studying
+for himself, the peculiarities of the various game, the author
+appends a comprehensive chapter on "Practical Natural History,"
+in which will be found full accounts of the peculiar habits and
+leading characteristics of all the various animals commonly sought
+by the trapper, together with detailed directions for trapping
+each variety, supplemented with a faithful portrait of the animal
+in nearly every instance. A careful reading of the above mentioned
+chapter will do much towards acquainting the novice with the ways
+of the sly creatures, which he hopes to victimize, and will thus
+prepare him to contend with them successfully.
+
+In the art of trapping the bait is often entirely dispensed with,
+the traps being set and carefully concealed in the _runways_ of
+the various animals. These by-paths are easily detected by an
+[Page 149]
+experienced trapper, and are indicated either by footprints or
+other evidences of the animal, together with the matted leaves and
+broken twigs and grasses.
+
+Natural channels, such as hollow logs or crevices between rocks
+or fallen trees, offer excellent situations for steel traps, and a
+good trapper is always on the _qui vive_ for such chance advantages,
+thus often saving much of the time and labor which would otherwise
+be spent in the building of artificial enclosures, etc.
+
+The most effective baits used in the art of trapping are those
+which are used to attract the animal through its sense of smell, as
+distinct from that of its mere appetite for food. These baits are
+known in the profession as "medicine," or scent baits and possess
+the most remarkable power of attracting the various animals from
+great distances, and leading them almost irresistibly to any desired
+spot. Such is the barks tone or castoreum, of such value in the
+capture of the beaver, and the oil of anise, so commonly used for
+the trapping of animals in general. These various substances will
+presently be considered under their proper heading.
+
+Many detailed and specific directions on the subject of trapping
+will be found in the long chapter following; and, in closing our
+preliminary remarks, we would add just one more word of general
+caution, which the young trapper should always bear in mind.
+
+In all cases avoid handling the trap with the bare hand. Many an
+amateur has set and _reset_ his traps in vain, and retired from the
+field of trapping in disgust, from the mere want of observing this
+rule. Animals of keen scent are quick in detecting the slightest
+odors, and that left by the touch of a human hand often suffices to
+drive the creature away from a trap which, under other circumstances,
+would have been its certain destruction. To be sure the various
+scent baits already alluded to, will in a measure overcome human
+traces, but not always effectually, and in order to insure success no
+precautions so simple should be neglected. A pair of clean buckskin
+gloves are valuable requisites to the trapper, and should always
+be "on hand" when setting or transporting traps.
+
+
+"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS.
+
+These form one of the most important requisites of the trapper's
+art. A trap baited simply with the food of the
+[Page 150]
+required animal, may and often will be successful, but with the
+addition of the trapper's "medicine" judicially applied, success
+is almost a certainty. These scent baits are of various kinds,
+some being almost universal in their usefulness, while others are
+attractive only to some particular species of animal. We give a
+few of the recipes of the most valued preparations used by trappers
+throughout the land. The application and use of each is fully described
+in its proper place hereafter.
+
+
+CASTOREUM.
+
+This substance, commonly known as "_Barkstone_," by trappers and
+fur dealers, is obtained from the beaver, and is a remarkable aid in
+the capture of that animal. It is an acrid secretion of a powerful
+musky odor, found in two glands beneath the root of the tail of
+the beaver. These glands are about two inches in length. They are
+cut out and the contents are squeezed into a small bottle. When
+fresh the substance is of a yellowish-red color, changing to a
+light-brown when dried. Both male and female animals yield the
+castoreum, but that of the male is generally considered the best.
+Castoreum is a commercial drug, and in many beaver countries it
+is quite an article of trade. There are other sacs lying directly
+behind the castor glands which contain a strong oil of rancid smell.
+This should not be confounded with the Castoreum.
+
+
+CASTOREUM COMPOSITION.
+
+The Barkstone is used both pure and in combination with other
+substances, the following prescription being much used: Into the
+contents of about ten of the castor bags, mix two ground nutmegs,
+thirty or forty cloves, also powdered, one drop essence of peppermint,
+and about two thimblefuls of ground cinnamon. Into this stir as
+much whisky as will give the whole the consistency of paste, after
+which the preparation should be bottled and kept carefully corked.
+At the expiration of a few days the odor increases ten-fold in power
+and is ready for use. A bottle, if thus prepared, will retain its
+strength for nearly a half year, provided it is kept closely corked.
+A few drops of either the pure castoreum or the combination spread
+upon the bait or in the neighborhood of the trap, as described
+under the chapter on the Beaver, will entice that animal from a
+great distance.
+
+
+[Page 151]
+MUSK.
+
+This substance is a secretion obtained from several different animals,
+notably the otter and muskrat. The glands which contain it are
+located similarly to the castor glands of the beaver, and the musk
+should be discharged into a vial, as previously described. The
+musk of the female muskrat is said to be the most powerful, and
+is chiefly used by trappers in the capture of that animal, the
+otter being chiefly attracted by its own musk.
+
+
+ASSAFOETIDA.
+
+This foul smelling production seems to have a specially attractive
+fragrance to many animals, and for general use is much esteemed by
+trappers. It is a vegetable drug from Persia and the East Indies,
+and is imported in the form of concrete juice, of a brown color.
+
+
+OIL OF RHODIUM.
+
+This is a vegetable oil obtained from a species of rose, and is
+quite costly. Its power of attracting animals is surprising, and
+it is in very common use among trappers.
+
+
+FISH OIL.
+
+This is especially useful in the capture of the majority of the
+fur tribe, and particularly the water animals.
+
+The oil may be bought ready for use, or prepared with little trouble.
+The common method consists in cutting up fish of any kind, especially
+eels, into small bits, putting them in a bottle, and setting the
+latter in the full exposure to the sun. It should thus be left
+for about two weeks, at the end of which time a rancid oil will
+have formed. A few drops of this oil will entice many animals from
+surprising distances, often drawing their attention to a bait which
+otherwise they might never have scented.
+
+
+OIL OF SKUNK.
+
+This, the _ne plus ultra_, or quintessence of diabolical stench,
+yields the tempting savor which irresistibly attracts many animals
+to their final doom. It is contained in a pouch beneath the insertion
+of the tail of the animal, and is spread abroad by the
+[Page 152]
+creature with lavish extravagance when circumstances demand, or we
+might say when occasion permits. It may be taken from the animal
+and bottled as already described in other instances, chloride of
+lime being used to eradicate the stench from the hands.
+
+
+OIL OF AMBER.
+
+This substance is frequently referred to in the following pages,
+and is a vegetable product of the amber gum of commerce. The Oil
+of Ambergris is also sometimes used by trappers, and is likewise
+known as Amber Oil. The two are thus often confounded, although
+the former is supposed to be most generally used.
+
+
+OIL OF ANISE.
+
+This is strongly recommended by many trappers as a most excellent
+"universal medicine." It is a vegetable product, and is obtainable
+at any drug store.
+
+SWEET FENNEL.
+
+This plant is commonly cultivated all over the United States, and
+the seeds are often powdered and used as a scent bait. The Oil of
+Fennel is preferable, however, and may be had at almost any drug
+store.
+
+
+CUMMIN.
+
+This is another plant, somewhat resembling the former, and, like
+it, cultivated for its seeds. It has an aromatic taste, and its
+strong pungent odor renders it of great value to the trapper. The
+seeds may be powdered and thus used, or the oil of the plant may
+be easily procured. The latter is preferable.
+
+
+FENUGREEK.
+
+Like the two foregoing this plant is valuable for its seeds, which
+are used for medicinal purposes. The oil or bruised seeds may be
+used.
+
+
+LAVENDER.
+
+This is another aromatic plant, the oil of which, either pure or
+diluted with alcohol, is much used in the trapper's art.
+
+
+[Page 153]
+COMPOUND.
+
+For ordinary use, a mixture of Assafoetida, Musk, Oil of Anise,
+and Fish Oil, together with a few drops of the Oil of Rhodium, is
+especially recommended by our most skilled trappers. This preparation
+contains the various substances which are known to attract the
+different fur bearing animals, and its use often insures success
+where anyone of the simple substances would be ineffectual.
+
+
+THE TRAIL.
+
+The object of the "trail" consists in offering a leading scent
+which, when followed, will bring the animal to the various traps,
+and when properly made will be the means of drawing large numbers
+of game from all quarters and from great distances, whereas without
+it the traps might remain undiscovered.
+
+Trails are sometimes made to connect a line of traps, as when set
+along the banks of streams for mink, etc., at other times, as in
+trapping the fox, for instance, they should extend from the trap on
+all sides, like the spokes of a wheel from the hub, thus covering
+considerable area, and rendering success more certain than it would
+be without this precaution.
+
+The combination "medicine" just described is excellent for the
+purposes of a trail for minks, otter, muskrat, and many other animals.
+
+Soak a piece of meat, or piece of wood in the preparation, and
+drag it along the ground between the traps. A dead fish smeared
+with the fluid will also answer the same purpose. The soles of
+the boots may also be smeared with the "medicine" and the trail
+thus accomplished. Trails of various kinds are considered under
+their respective and appropriate heads in the chapters on animals,
+all of which will be found useful and effective.
+
+
+HOW TO TRAP.
+
+In the following pages will be found full and ample directions
+for the trapping of all our leading game, together with detailed
+descriptions of peculiar habits of each species. The various articles
+contain careful descriptions, whereby the species may be readily
+recognized, and, in nearly every case, are accompanied by faithful
+illustrations. We add also valuable directions for the best manner of
+removing the skin of each animal, this being a matter of considerable
+importance, as affecting their pecuniary value.
+
+
+[Page 154]
+THE FOX.
+
+Foremost in the list of animals noted for their sly craft, and
+the hero of a host of fables and well-authenticated stories, in
+which artful cunning gains the advantage over human intelligence,
+Reynard, the fox, reigns supreme. There is scarcely a professional
+trapper in the land who has not, in his day, been hoodwinked by the
+wily strategy of this sly creature, whose extreme cunning renders
+him the most difficult of all animals to trap. The fox belongs to
+the Dog family, and there are six varieties inhabiting the United
+States. The red species is the most common and is too well known
+to need a description here. The Cross Fox considerably resembles
+the above, only being much darker in color, the red hair being
+thickly speckled with black. This species varies considerably in
+color in different individuals, often much resembling the red variety,
+and again approaching nearer in color to the Black or Silver Fox.
+This variation, together with the name of the animal, has given
+rise among trappers to the wide-spread belief of the animal being
+a cross between the two species which it so nearly resembles. It
+seems to be a permanent variety, however, the term cross being
+applied, we believe, on account of a dark marking on the back,
+between the shoulders of the animal, suggestive of that title.
+The Silver or Black Fox is the most beautiful and most rare of the
+genus, and yields the most valuable fur produced in this country.
+Its color is black, with the exception of the tip of the tail,
+which is white. The Prairie Fox is the largest of the species. It
+inhabits the Western Prairies, and in color resembles the common
+red variety, only being a trifle yellower.
+
+The Kit, or Swift Fox, is smaller than the Red, and abounds in the
+Western States.
+
+The Gray Fox is a Southern variety, and is very beautiful. It is
+less daring and cunning than the Common Fox, and seldom approaches
+a farm-yard, where it is in close proximity to a dwelling.
+
+The general habits and characteristics of all the foxes are similar.
+For natural cunning they take the lead of all other animals. They
+are all built for speed, and their senses of smell and hearing
+are acutely developed. Their food consists of wild fowl of all
+kinds, rabbits, squirrels, birds and their eggs, together with
+many kinds of ripe fruits, "sour grapes" not included. They live
+in burrows, often usurped, or crevices between rocks; and their
+[Page 155]
+young, from three to nine in number, are brought forth in March.
+
+We are strongly tempted to narrate a few remarkable instances of
+the animal's cunning, but we forbear for want of space. Our reader
+must take it for granted that when he attempts to trap a fox, he
+will be likely to find more than his match in the superior craftiness
+of that animal. If the trap is overturned and the bait gone, or if
+repeatedly sprung and found empty, he must not he surprised or
+discouraged, for he is experiencing only what all other trappers
+have experienced before him. There are instances on record where
+this knowing creature has sprung the trap by dropping a stick upon
+the pan, afterwards removing the suspended bait to enjoy it at
+his leisure. His movements are as lithe and subtile as those of
+a snake, and when "cornered" there is no telling what caper that
+cunning instinct and subtlety of body will not lead him to perform.
+When pursued by hounds he has been known to lead them a long chase
+at full speed up to the crest of a hill: here he leaps a shrub,
+swiftly as an arrow, and landing on the ground on the opposite
+declivity quickly returns beneath the brushwood and crouches down
+closely upon the ground. Presently the hounds come along in full
+cry, and blazing scent they dart over the shrub in full pursuit,
+dash down the hillside, never stopping until at the bottom of the
+hill they find they are off the trail. As soon as the hounds are
+passed, sly Reynard cautiously takes to his legs: creeping adroitly
+back over the brow of the hill, he runs for a considerable distance
+on his back trail, and at last, after taking a series of long jumps
+therefrom returns to his covert at leisure. Page after page might
+be filled to the glory of this creature's cunning, but enough has
+been said to give the young trapper an insight into the character
+of the animal he hopes to victimize, and prepare him for a trial
+of skill which, without this knowledge, would be a most one-sided
+affair.
+
+We would not advise our young amateur to calculate very confidently
+on securing a fox at the first attempt, but we can truthfully vouch
+that if the creature can be _caught at all_, it can be done by
+following the directions we now give.
+
+One of the most essential things in the trapping of this, as well
+as nearly all animals, is that the trap should be _perfectly clean
+and free from rust_. The steel trap No.2, page 141 is the best
+for animals of the size of the Fox. The trap should be washed in
+weak lye, being afterwards well greased and finally smoked over
+burning hen's feathers.
+
+[Page 156]
+All this and even more precaution is necessary. No matter how strongly
+scented the trap may be, with the smoke, or other substances, a
+mere touch of the bare hand will leave a _human scent_ which the
+fox perceives as soon as the other, and this is enough to deaden
+his enthusiasm over the most tempting bait.
+
+On this account, it is necessary always to handle the trap with
+buckskin gloves, never allowing the bare hand to come in contact
+with it, on any account, after once prepared for setting.
+
+Before arranging the trap for its work, it is necessary to construct
+what is called a "bed." There are several methods of doing this;
+but from all we can learn from the most experienced trappers, the
+following is the most successful. The bed should be made on flat
+ground, using any of the following substances: Buckwheat chaff,
+which is the best, oat, wheat, or hay chaff, or in lieu of these,
+moss or wood ashes. Let the bed be three feet in diameter, and an
+inch and a half in depth. To insure success it is the best plan
+to bait the bed itself for several days with scraps of beef or
+cheese strewn upon, and near it. If the fox once visits the place,
+discovers the tempting morsels and enjoys a good meal unmolested,
+he will be sure to revisit the spot so long as he finds a "free
+lunch" awaiting him. When he is found to come regularly and take
+the bait, he is as good as caught, provided our instructions are
+carefully followed. Take the trap, previously prepared as already
+described, chain it securely to a small log of wood about two feet
+long. Dig a hole in the earth in the centre of the bed, large enough
+to receive the trap, with its log, and chain. Set the traps, supporting
+the pan by pushing some of the chaff beneath it. Now lay a piece
+of paper over the pan and sprinkle the chaff over it evenly and
+smoothly, until every trace of the trap and its appendages is
+obliterated. Endeavor to make the bed look as it has previously
+done, and bait it with the same materials. Avoid treading much
+about the bed and step in the same tracks as far as possible. Touch
+nothing with the naked hands. Cover up all the footprints as much
+as possible, and leave the trap to take care of itself and any
+intruder. If our directions have been accurately followed, and due
+care has been exercised on the part of the young trapper, there
+is every probability that the next morning will reward him with
+his fox. But if a day or two elapse without success, it is well to
+resort to the "scent baits" described on page 149. Take the trap
+out of the bed, and with a feather smear it with melted beeswax,
+or rub it with a little Oil of Rhodium, Assafoetida, or Musk. Oil
+of Amber, and Lavender water are also used for the same
+[Page 157]
+purpose by many professional trappers. These are not always necessary
+but are often used as a last resort, and will most always insure
+success.
+
+Another method of baiting is shown in our page illustration opposite,
+and consists in suspending the bait by a stick in such a position
+that the fox will be obliged to step upon the trap in order to
+reach it. The bed should be baited in this way several times before
+the trap is set. This method is very commonly employed.
+
+Another still, is to bury the dead body of a rabbit or bird in
+loose earth, covering the whole with chaff. Sprinkle a few drops
+of Musk, or Oil of Amber over the bed. After the fox has taken
+the bait, the place should be rebaited and the trap inserted in
+the mound and covered with the chaff, being scented as before.
+
+Some trappers employ the following method with good results: The
+trap is set, in a spring or at the edge of a small shallow brook
+and attached by a chain to a stake in the bank, the chain being
+under water. There should be only about an inch and a half of water
+over the trap, and its distance from the shore should be about
+a foot and a half, or even less. In order to induce the fox to
+place his foot in the trap it is necessary to cut a sod of grass,
+just the size of the inside of the jaws of the trap, and place it
+over the pan, so that it will project above the water and offer
+a tempting foot rest for the animal while he reaches for the bait
+which rests in the water just beyond. To accomplish this device
+without springing the trap by the weight of the sod, it is necessary
+to brace up the pan from beneath with a small perpendicular stick,
+sufficiently to neutralize the pressure from above. The bait may
+be a dead rabbit or bird thrown on the water outside of the trap
+and about a foot from it, being secured by a string and peg. If
+the fox spies the bait he will be almost sure to step upon the
+sod to reach it, and thus get caught.
+
+If none of these methods are successful, the young trapper may at
+least content himself with the idea that the particular fox he is
+after is an _old fellow_ and is "not to be caught with chaff" or
+any thing else,--for if these devices will not secure him _nothing_
+will. If he is a young and comparatively unsophisticated specimen,
+he will fall an easy victim to any of the foregoing stratagems.
+
+Although steel traps are generally used in the capture of foxes,
+a cleverly constructed and baited dead-fall such as is described
+on page 113 will often do capital service in that direction. By
+[Page 158]
+arranging and baiting the trap as therein described, even a fox
+is _likely to become_ its prey.
+
+To skin the fox the pelt should be first ripped down each hind
+leg to the vent. The skin being cut loose around this point, the
+bone of the tail should next be removed. This may be done by holding
+a split stick tightly over the bone after which the latter may be
+easily pulled out of the skin.
+
+The hide should then be drawn back, and carefully removed, working
+with caution around the legs, and particularly so about the eyes,
+ears, and lips when these points are reached. The skin should be
+stretched as described on page 273.
+
+
+THE WOLF.
+
+The United States are blessed with several species of this animal.
+The Grey Wolf, which is the largest, and the smaller, Prairie Wolf
+or Coyote, being the most commonly known. There are also the White
+Wolf, Black Wolf and the Texan or Red Wolf. In outward form they
+all bear a considerable resemblance to each other, and their habits
+are generally similar in the different varieties.
+
+Wolves are fierce and dangerous animals, and are very powerful of
+limb and fleet of foot. They are extremely cowardly in character,
+and will seldom attack man or animal except when by their greater
+numbers they would be sure of victory. Wolves are found in almost
+every quarter of the globe. Mountain and plain, field, jungle and
+prairie are alike infested with them, and they hunt in united bands,
+feeding upon almost any animal which by their combined attacks
+they can overpower.
+
+Their inroads upon herds and sheep folds are sometimes horrifying,
+and a single wolf has been known to kill as many as forty sheep
+in a single night, seemingly from mere blood-thirsty desire.
+
+In the early colonization of America, wolves ran wild over the
+country in immense numbers, and were a source of great danger;
+but now, owing to wide-spread civilization, they have disappeared
+from the more settled localities and are chiefly found in Western
+wilds and prairie lands.
+
+The Grey Wolf is the largest and most formidable representative of
+the Dog tribe on this continent. Its general appearance is truthfully
+given in our drawing. Its length, exclusive of the tail, is about
+four feet, the length of the tail being about a foot and a half.
+Its color varies from yellowish grey to almost
+[Page 159]
+white in the northern countries, in which latitude the animal is
+sometimes found of an enormous size, measuring nearly seven feet in
+length. The fur is coarse and shaggy about the neck and haunches,
+and the tail is bushy. They abound in the region east of the Rocky
+Mountains and northward, and travel in packs of hundreds in search
+of prey. Bisons, wild horses, deer and even bears fall victims
+to their united fierceness, and human beings, too, often fall a
+prey to their ferocious attacks.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Coyote, or Common Prairie Wolf, also known as the Burrowing
+Wolf, as its name implies inhabits the Western plains and prairies.
+They are much smaller than the Grey Wolf, and not so dangerous. They
+travel in bands and unitedly attack whatever animal they desire
+to kill. Their homes are made in burrows which they excavate in the
+ground. The Texan Wolf inhabits the latitude of Texas and southward.
+It is of a tawny red color and nearly as large as the grey species,
+possessing the same savage nature.
+
+In April or May the female wolf retires to her burrow or den, and
+her young, from six to ten in number, are brought forth.
+
+The wolf is almost as sly and cunning as the fox, and the same
+caution is required in trapping the animal. They are extremely keen
+scented, and the mere touch of a human hand on the trap is often
+enough to preclude the possibility of capture. A mere footprint,
+or the scent of tobacco juice, they look upon with great suspicion,
+[Page 160]
+and the presence of either will often prevent success.
+
+The same directions given in regard to trapping the fox are equally
+adapted for the wolf. The trap (size No, 4, page 141) should be
+smoked or smeared with beeswax or blood, and set in a bed of ashes
+or other material as therein described, covering with moss, chaff,
+leaves or some other light substance. The clog should be fully
+twice as heavy as that used for the fox. Some trappers rub the
+traps with "brake leaves," sweet fern, or even skunk's cabbage.
+Gloves should always be worn in handling the traps, and all tracks
+should be obliterated as much as if a fox were the object sought
+to be secured.
+
+A common way of securing the wolf consists in setting the trap
+in a spring or puddle of water, throwing the dead body of some
+large animal in the water beyond the trap in such a position that
+the wolf will be obliged to tread upon the trap, in order to reach
+the bait. This method is described both under the head of the Fox
+and the Bear.
+
+Another plan is to fasten the bait between two trees which are
+very close together, setting a trap on each side and carefully
+concealing them as already directed, and securing each to a clog
+of about twenty pounds in weight. The enclosure described on page
+144 is also successful.
+
+There are various scent or trail baits used in trapping the wolf.
+Oil of Assafoetida is by many trappers considered the best, but
+Oil of Rhodium, powdered fennel, fenugreek and Cummin Oil are also
+much used. It is well to smear a little of the first mentioned oil
+near the traps, using any one of the other substances, or indeed a
+mixture of them all, for the trail. This may be made by smearing the
+preparation on the sole of the boots and walking in the direction
+of the traps, or by dragging from one trap to another a piece of
+meat scented with the substance, as described under the head of
+Mink.
+
+The wolf is an adept at feigning death, playing "'possum" with a
+skill which would do credit to that veritable animal itself.
+
+A large dead-fall, constructed of logs, page 17, when skilfully
+scented and baited, will often allure a wolf into its clutches,
+and a very strong twitch-up, with a noose formed of heavy wire, or
+a strip of stout calf hide, will successfully capture the crafty
+creature.
+
+In skinning the wolf the hide may be removed either by, first ripping
+up the belly, or in a circular piece, as described connection with
+the fox, both methods being much used. The board and hoop stretchers
+[Page 161]
+used in preparing the skin are described on pages 273 and 275.
+
+
+THE PUMA.
+
+The puma, commonly known also as the panther or cougar, is the
+largest American representative of the Cat tribe, and for this
+reason is often dignified by the name of the "American Lion." It
+is found more or less abundantly throughout the United States;
+and although not generally considered a dangerous foe to mankind,
+it has often been known in the wild districts to steal upon the
+traveller unawares, and in many instances human beings have fallen
+a prey to the powerful claws and teeth of this powerful animal.
+
+The life of the puma is mostly in the trees. Crouching upon the
+branches it watches for, or steals, cat-like, upon its prey. Should
+a solitary animal pass within reach, the puma will not hesitate in
+pouncing upon the unfortunate creature; but if a herd of animals,
+or party of men, should be travelling together, the caution of
+the brute asserts itself, and he will often dog their footsteps
+for a great distance, in hopes of securing a straggler. Birds are
+struck down by a single blow of the puma's ready paw, and so quick
+are his movements that even though a bird has risen on the wing,
+he can often make one of his wonderful bounds, and with a light,
+quick stroke, arrest the winged prey before it has time to soar
+beyond reach. The puma is a good angler. Sitting by the water's
+edge he watches for his victims, and no sooner does an unfortunate
+fish swim within reach, than the nimble paw is outstretched, and
+it is swept out of the water on dry land, and eagerly devoured.
+
+A puma has been known to follow the track of travellers for days
+together, only daring to show itself at rare intervals, and never
+endeavoring to make an attack except through stealth. The animal
+will often approach cautiously upon a traveller until sufficiently
+near to make its fatal spring; but if the pursued party suddenly turn
+round and face the crawling creature, the beast becomes discomfited
+at once, and will retreat from the gaze which seems to it a positive
+terror. So long as a puma can be kept in sight, no danger need be
+feared from the animal but it will improve every opportunity of
+springing unobservedly upon a heedless passer by. The total length
+of the puma is six feet and a half, of which the tail occupies a
+little over two feet. Its color is of a uniform light tawny tint,
+fading into light grey on the under parts, and the tip of the tail
+[Page 162]
+is black. The puma is one of the few members of the Cat tribe, which
+are without the usual spots or stripes so observable in the tiger and
+leopard. The lion has the same uniformity of color, and it is perhaps
+partly on that account that the panther is so often known as the
+American lion. In infancy the young pumas possess decided tiger-like
+markings, and leopard-like spots, but these disappear altogether as
+the animal increases in size. The cougar has learned by experience a
+wholesome fear of man, and as civilization has extended throughout
+our country, the animals have been forced to retire from the neighborhood
+of human habitations and hide themselves in thick, uncultivated forest
+lands.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Sometimes, however, the animal, urged by fierce hunger, will venture
+on a marauding expedition for several miles, and although not an
+object of personal dread to the inhabitants, he often becomes a
+pestilent neighbor to the farmer, committing great ravages among
+his flocks and herds, and making sad havoc in his poultry yard.
+It is not the fortune of every puma, however, to reside in the
+neighborhood of such easy prey as pigs, sheep and poultry, and the
+greater number of these animals are forced to depend for their
+[Page 163]
+subsistence on their own success in chasing or surprising the various
+animals on which they feed.
+
+When a puma is treed by hunters, it is said to show great skill
+in selecting a spot wherein it shall be best concealed from the
+gazers below, and will even draw the neighboring branches about
+its body to hide itself from the aim of the hunter's rifle. While
+thus lying upon the branches the beast is almost invisible from
+below, as its fur, when seen, harmonizes so well with the the bark
+which covers the boughs, that the one can scarcely be distinguished
+from the other.
+
+The puma loves to hide in the branches of trees, and from this
+eminence to launch itself upon the doomed animal that may pass within
+its reach. It may, therefore, be easily imagined how treacherous a
+foe the creature may be when ranging at will among the countless
+trees and jungles of our American forests.
+
+Although so stealthy and sly a creature the cougar possesses very
+little cunning and is easily trapped. The Gun trap, page 20, is
+commonly and successfully employed in South America in the capture
+of the jaguar, as our title illustration, page 15, represents, and
+it may also be used with the same success in trapping the puma.
+The Bow trap, page 23, and the dead-fall described in the early part
+of the book, will all be found to work admirably in the destruction
+of this treacherous beast.
+
+The animal may be entrapped alive, should any of our young trappers
+dare to try the experiment.
+
+There are two ways of accomplishing this. The first is by the aid
+of a huge coop of logs, as described on page 30 or 33, and the other
+by the Pit-fall, as exemplified on page 31. Huge twitch-ups may
+also be constructed, using very strong wire. The bait may consist
+of a fowl, sheep's head, or the heart of any animal. Fresh meat of
+any kind will answer the purpose, and in the case of the Pit-fall
+a live fowl is preferable to a dead one as it will attract the
+puma by its motions, or by its cackling, and thus induce him to
+_spring_ upon his prey, which will precipitate him to the bottom
+of the pit and thus effect his capture.
+
+They are commonly taken with the steel trap. The puma seldom leaves
+the vicinity of the carcass of an animal it has killed until it is
+all devoured. When such a carcass can be found the capture of the
+beast is easily effected. Set the trap, size No. 5, page 143, near
+the remains, and cover the carcass with leaves. The next visit of
+the animal will find him _more attached_ to the place than ever,--so
+much so that he will be unable to "_tear himself away_."
+
+[Page 164]
+The skin of the puma is properly removed by first cutting up the
+belly as described under the Beaver, using great care about the
+head and face. Use the hoop stretcher, page 275.
+
+
+THE CANADIAN LYNX.
+
+The lynx represents another of the Cat tribe, and as its name implies
+is a native of the regions north of the United States, although
+sometimes found in upper Maine and on the lower borders of the
+great lakes. It is commonly known throughout Canada as the Peshoo,
+or "Le Chat."
+
+Our illustration is a truthful representation of the animal. Its
+total length exceeds three feet, and its tail is a mere stub. The
+fur is thick, and the hairs are long, the general color being grey,
+sprinkled with black. The legs are generally darker than the body,
+and the ears are often edged with white. The limbs and muscles
+are very powerful, the paws are very large for the size of the
+animal, and are furnished with strong white claws, which are imbedded
+in the fur of the feet when not in use, they are shown in our
+illustration. The ears of the lynx form a distinct feature, by
+which the animal could be easily identified; they are long and
+tipped with stiff projecting hairs, giving the creature a very odd
+appearance.
+
+The peshoo can not be said to be a very dangerous animal, unless
+it is attacked, when it becomes a most ferocious antagonist. The
+writer knew of a gentleman who was pounced upon and very nearly
+killed by one of these infuriated creatures, and there are many
+like instances on record.
+
+The principal food of the lynx consists of the smaller quadrupeds,
+the American hare being its favorite article of diet. It is a good
+swimmer, and a most agile climber, chasing its prey among the branches
+with great stealth and dexterity. Like the wolf, fox, and many
+other flesh eating-animals, the lynx does not content itself with
+the creatures which fall by the stroke of its own talons, or the
+grip of its own teeth, but will follow the trail of the puma, in
+its nocturnal quest after prey, and thankfully partake of the feast
+which remains after its predecessor has satisfied its appetite.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+While running at full speed, the lynx presents a most ludicrous
+appearance, owing to its peculiar manner of leaping. It progresses
+in successive bounds, with its back slightly arched, and all the
+feet striking the ground nearly at the same instant. Powerful as
+the animal is, it is easily killed by a blow on the
+[Page 165]
+back, a slight stick being a sufficient weapon wherewith to destroy
+the creature. For this reason the "Dead-fall" is particularly adapted
+for its capture, and is very successful, as the animal possesses
+very little cunning, and will enter an enclosure of any kind without
+the slightest compunction, when a tempting bait is in view. The
+dead-fall should of course be constructed on a large scale, and
+it is a good plan to have the enclosure deep, and the bait as far
+back as will necessitate the animal being well under the suspended
+log in order to reach it. The bait may consist of a dead quadruped
+or of fresh meat of any kind.
+
+The Gun trap, page 20, and the Bow trap, page 23, will also be
+found efficient, and a very powerful twitch-up, constructed from a
+stout pole and extra strong wire will also serve to good purpose.
+The lynx is not so prolific as many of the feline tribe, the number
+of its young seldom exceeding two, and this only once a year. The
+fur of the animal is valuable for the purposes to which the feline
+skin is generally adapted, and commands a fair price in the market.
+Those who hunt or trap the lynx will do well to choose the winter
+months for the time of their operations, as during the cold season
+the animal possesses a thicker and warmer fur than it offers in
+the summer months.
+
+When the steel trap is used, it should be of size No. 4, page
+[Page 166]
+141, set at the opening of a pen of stakes, the bait being placed
+at the back of the enclosure in such a position, as that the animal
+will be obliged to step upon the pan of the trap in order to reach
+it. Any of the devices described under "Hints on Baiting" will
+be found successful.
+
+The skin of the animal may be removed as directed in the case of
+the fox, being drawn off the body whole, or it may be removed after
+the manner of the beaver, and similarly stretched.
+
+
+THE WILD CAT.
+
+This animal is one of the most wide-spread species of the Cat tribe,
+being found not only in America, but throughout nearly the whole
+of Europe as well as in Northern Asia. In many parts of the United
+States, where the wild cat was wont to flourish, it has become
+exterminated, owing to civilization and the destruction of forest
+lands.
+
+Many naturalists are of the opinion that the wild cat is the original
+progenitor of our domestic cat, but there is much difference of opinion
+in regard to the subject. Although they bear great resemblance to
+each other, there are several points of distinction between the
+two; one of the most decided differences being in the comparative
+length of the tails. The tail of the wild cat is little more than
+half the length of that of the domestic cat, and much more bushy.
+
+The color of the wild animal is much more uniform than in the great
+raft of "domestic" mongrel specimens which make night hideous with
+their discordant yowls, although we sometimes see a high bred individual
+which, if his tail was cut off at half its length, might easily
+pass as an example of the wild variety.
+
+The ground tint of the fur in the wild cat is yellowish grey,
+diversified with dark streaks over the body and limbs, much after
+the appearance of the so-called "tiger cat." A row of dark streaks
+and spots extends along the spine, and the tail is thick, short
+and bushy, tipped with black and encircled with a number of rings
+of a dark hue. In some individuals the markings are less distinct,
+and they are sometimes altogether wanting, but in the typical wild
+cat they are quite prominent. The fur is rather long and thick,
+particularly so during the winter season, and always in the colder
+northern regions.
+
+The amount of havoc which these creatures often occasion is surprising,
+and their nocturnal inroads, in poultry yards and
+[Page 167]
+sheep folds, render them most hated pests to farmers in the countries
+where these animals abound. They seem to have a special appetite
+for the _heads_ of fowls, and will often decapitate a half dozen
+in a single night, leaving the bodies in otherwise good condition
+to tell the story of their midnight murders. The home of the wild
+cat is made in some cleft of rock, or in the hollow of some aged
+tree, from which the creature issues in the dark hours and starts
+upon its marauding excursions. Its family numbers from three to
+six, and the female parent is smaller than the male, the total
+length of the latter being three feet.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Inhabiting the most lonely and inaccessible ranges of rock and
+mountain, the wild cat is seldom seen during the daytime. At night,
+like its domestic relative, he prowls far and wide, walking with
+the same stealthy step and hunting his game in the same tiger-like
+manner. He is by no means a difficult animal to trap, being easily
+deceived and taking a bait without any hesitation. The wild cat
+haunts the shores of lakes and rivers, and it is here that the
+traps may be set for them. Having caught and killed one of the
+colony, the rest of them can be easily taken if the body of the
+dead victim be left near their hunting ground and surrounded with
+the traps carefully set and concealed beneath leaves moss or the like.
+[Page 168]
+Every wild cat that is in the neighborhood will be certain to visit
+the body, and if the traps are rightly arranged many will be caught.
+The trap No. 3, page 141 is generally used. We would caution the young
+trapper in his approach to an entrapped wild cat, as the strength and
+ferocity of this animal under such circumstances, or when otherwise
+"hard pressed," is perfectly amazing. When caught in a trap they
+spring with terrible fury at any one who approaches them, not waiting
+to be assailed, and when cornered or hemmed in by a hunter they
+will often turn upon their pursuer, and springing at his face will
+attack him with most consummate fury, often inflicting serious
+and sometimes fatal wounds. When hunted and attacked by dogs, the
+wild cat is a most desperate and untiring fighter, and extremely
+difficult to kill, for which reason it has been truthfully said
+that "if a tame cat has nine lives, a _wild cat_ must have a dozen."
+
+The twitch-up, erected on a large scale, is utilized to a considerable
+extent in England in the capture of these animals; and these, together
+with steel traps and dead-falls, are about the only machines used
+for their capture. We would suggest the garrote, bow and gun trap
+also as being very effective. The bait may consist of the head
+of a fowl or a piece of rabbit or fowl flesh: or, indeed, flesh
+of almost any kind will answer, particularly of the bird kind.
+
+In skinning the wild cat the same directions given under the head
+of the Fox may be followed, or the pelt may be ripped up the belly
+and spread on a hoop stretcher, page 275.
+
+
+THE BEAR.
+
+There are several species of the Bear tribe which inhabit our continent,
+the most prominent of which are the Grizzly, and the Musquaw or
+common Black Bear. There is no other animal of this country which
+is more widely and deservedly dreaded than the grizzly bear. There
+are other creatures, the puma and wild cat, for instance, which
+are dangerous when cornered or wounded, but they are not given to
+open and deliberate attack upon human beings. The grizzly, however,
+or "Ephraim," as he is commonly termed by trappers, often displays
+a most unpleasant readiness to attack and pursue a man, even in
+the face of fire arms. In many localities, however, where hunting
+has been pursued to considerable extent, these animals have learned
+from experience a wholesome fear of man, and are not so ready to
+assume the offensive, but a "_wounded_" grizzly is one of the
+[Page 169]
+most horrible antagonists of which it is possible to conceive,
+rushing upon its victim with terrible fury, and dealing most tearing
+and heavy blows with its huge claws.
+
+In length this formidable animal often exceeds eight feet, and its
+color varies from yellowish to brownish black, and some specimens
+are found of a dirty grey color.
+
+The legs are usually darker than the rest of the body, and the
+face is generally of a lighter tint. The fore limbs of the animal
+are immensely powerful; and the foot of a full-grown individual
+is fully eighteen inches long, and armed with claws five inches
+in length. The grizzly inhabits the Rocky Mountain regions and
+northward, being found in considerable numbers in the western part
+of British America. Its hair is thick and coarse, except in the
+young animal, which possesses a beautiful fur.
+
+All other creatures seem to stand in fear of this formidable beast.
+Even the huge bison, or buffalo, of the Western Prairies sometimes
+falls a victim to the grizzly bear, and the very imprint of a bear's
+foot upon the soil is a warning which not even a hungry wolf will
+disregard.
+
+Its food consists of whatever animal it can seize, whether human
+or otherwise. He also devours green corn, nuts, and fruits of all
+kinds. In his earlier years he is a good climber, and will ascend
+a tree with an agility which is surprisingly inconsistent with
+the unwieldy proportions of his body.
+
+The average weight of a full-grown grizzly is over eight hundred
+pounds, and the girth around the body is about eight feet.
+
+The Black bear, or Musquaw, which we illustrate is common throughout
+nearly all the half settled-districts of North America. But as the
+fur and fat are articles of great commercial value, the hunters
+and trappers have exercised their craft with such skill and
+determination that the animals are gradually decreasing in numbers.
+The total length of the black bear is seldom more than six feet,
+and its fur is smooth and glossy in appearance. The color of the
+animal is rightly conveyed by its name, the cheeks only partaking
+of a reddish fawn color.
+
+It possesses little of that fierceness which characterizes the
+grizzly, being naturally a very quiet and retiring creature, keeping
+itself aloof from mankind, and never venturing near his habitations
+except when excited by the pangs of fierce hunger. When pursued
+or cornered it becomes a dangerous antagonist; and its furious
+rage often results in fearful catastrophes to both man and beast.
+Nothing but a rifle ball in the right spot will
+[Page 170]
+check the creature, when wrought up to this pitch of fury, and an
+additional wound only serves to increase its terrible ferocity.
+Bear-chasing is an extremely dangerous sport; and there are few
+bear-hunters in the land, however skilful, but what can show scars
+from the claws or teeth of some exasperated bruin.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The food of the black bear is mostly of a vegetable character,
+animal diet not being indulged in unless pressed by hunger. At
+such times it seems to especially prefer a young pig as the most
+desirable delicacy; and even full-grown hogs, it is said, are sometimes
+lifted from their pens and carried off in his deadly embrace.
+
+Honey is his especial delight; and he will climb trees with great
+agility in order to reach a nest of bees, there being few obstacles
+which his ready claws and teeth will not remove where that dainty
+is in view. He is also very fond of acorns, berries, and fruits
+of all kinds.
+
+The young of the bear are produced in January or February, and
+are from one to four in number. They are very small and covered
+with grey hair, which coat they retain until they are one year of
+age. The flesh of the bear is held in high esteem among hunters,
+and when properly prepared is greatly esteemed by epicures.
+
+The fat of the animal is much used under the title of "Bear
+[Page 171]
+grease," and is believed to be an infallible hair rejuvenator, and
+therefore becomes a valuable article of commerce.
+
+The bear generally hibernates during the winter, choosing some
+comfortable residence which it has prepared in the course of the
+summer, or perhaps betaking itself to the hollow of some tree.
+Sometimes, in case of early snow, the track of the bears may be
+distinguished, and if followed will probably lead to their dens,
+in which they can be secured with logs until it is desired to kill
+them.
+
+The black bear has a habit of treading in a beaten track, which
+is easily detected by the eye of an experienced hunter or trapper,
+and turned to good account in trapping the animal.
+
+There are various modes of accomplishing this result. The bear
+Dead-fall, described on page 17, is, perhaps, the most commonly
+used, and the Pit-fall, page 31, and "Giant Coop" trap are also
+excellent. The Gun trap and stone dead-fall, page 20, we also
+confidently recommend. When a steel trap is used it requires the
+largest size, especially made for the purpose. It should be supplied
+with a short and very strong chain firmly secured to a very heavy
+clog or grappling-iron page 147. If secured to a tree or other
+stationary object, the captured animal is likely to gnaw or tear
+his foot away, if, indeed, he does not break the trap altogether
+by the quick tightening of the chain. The clog should be only heavy
+enough to be an _impediment_, and may consist of a log or heavy
+stone. The grappling-iron, however, is more often used in connection
+with the bear trap. It is a common method in trapping the bear
+to construct a pen of upright branches, laying the trap at its
+opening, and covering it with leaves. The bait is then placed at
+the back in such a position that the animal, on reaching for it,
+will be sure to put his foot in the trap.
+
+An experienced trapper soon discovers natural openings between
+rocks or trees, which may be easily modified, and by the addition
+of a few logs so improved upon as to answer his purpose as well as
+a more elaborate enclosure, with much less trouble. Any arrangement
+whereby the bear will be obliged to tread upon the trap in order
+to secure the bait, is, of course, all that is required. The bait
+may be hung on the edge of a rock five feet from the ground, and
+the trap set on a smaller rock beneath it. He will thus be almost
+sure to rest his forefoot on the latter rock in order to reach
+the bait, and will thus be captured.
+
+Another way is to set the trap in a spring of water or swampy
+[Page 172]
+spot. Lay a lump of moss over the pan, suspending the bait beyond
+the trap. The moss will offer a natural foot-rest, and the offending
+paw will be secured.
+
+Bears possess but little cunning, and will enter any nook or corner
+without the slightest compunction when in quest of food. They are
+especially fond of sweets, and, as we have said, are strongly attracted
+by honey, being able to scent it from a great distance. On this
+account it is always used, when possible, by trappers in connection
+with other baits. These may consist of a fowl, fruit, or flesh of
+any kind, and the honey should be smeared over it. Skunk cabbage
+is said to be an excellent bait for the bear; and in all cases a
+free use of the Oil of Anise page 152, sprinkling it about the
+traps, is also advisable. Should the device fail, it is well to
+make a trail (see page 153) in several directions from the trap,
+and extending for several rods. A piece of wood, wet with Oil of
+Anise, will answer for the purpose.
+
+The general method of skinning the bear consists in first cutting
+from the front of the lower jaw down the belly to the vent, after
+which the hide may be easily removed. The hoop-stretcher page 275,
+will then come into good use in the drying and preparing of the
+skin for market.
+
+
+THE RACCOON.
+
+Although allied to the Bear family, this animal possesses much
+in common with the fox, as regards its general disposition and
+character. It has the same slyness and cunning, the same stealthy
+tread, besides an additional mischievousness and greed. It is too
+common to need any description here, being found plentifully throughout
+nearly the whole United States. The bushy tail, with its dark rings,
+will be sufficient to identify the animal in any community. Raccoon
+hunts form the subject of many very exciting and laughable stories,
+and a "coon chase," to this day is a favorite sport all over the
+country. The raccoon, or "coon," as he is popularly styled, is
+generally hunted by moonlight. An experienced dog is usually set
+on the trail and the fugitive soon seeks refuge in a tree, when
+its destruction is almost certain. Hence the term "treed coon," as
+applied to an individual when in a dangerous predicament. Besides
+possessing many of the peculiarities of the fox, the "coon" has
+the additional accomplishment of being a most agile and expert
+climber, holding so firmly to the limb by its sharp claws as to
+defy all attempts to shake it off.
+
+[Page 173]
+The home of the raccoon is generally in a hollow tree; the young
+are brought forth in May, and are from four to six in number.
+
+In captivity this animal makes a very cunning and interesting pet,
+being easily tamed to follow its master, and when dainties are in
+view becomes a most adroit pickpocket. Its food is extensive in
+variety, thus making it quite an easy matter to keep the creature
+in confinement. Nuts and fruits of all kinds it eagerly devours,
+as well as bread, cake and potatoes. It manifests no hesitation
+at a meal of rabbit, rat, squirrel, or bird, and rather likes it
+for a change, and when he can partake of a dessert of honey or
+molasses his enjoyment knows no bounds. Frogs, fresh water clams,
+green corn, and a host of other delicacies come within the range
+of his diet, and he may sometimes be seen digging from the sand
+the eggs of the soft-shelled turtle, which he greedily sucks. We
+cordially recommend the coon as a pet. He becomes very docile,
+and is full of cunning ways, and if the young ones can be traced
+to their hiding-place in some hollow tree, and secured, if not
+_too_ young, we could warrant our readers a great deal of real
+sport and pleasure in rearing the little animals and watching their
+ways.
+
+In cold climates the raccoon lies dormant in the winter, only venturing
+out on occasional mild days; but in the Southern States he is active
+throughout the year, prowling about by day and by night in search
+of his food, inserting his little sharp nose into every corner,
+and feeling with his slender paws between stones for spiders and
+bugs of all kinds. He spies the innocent frog with his head just
+out of the water, and pouncing upon him, he despatches him without
+a moment's warning. There seems to be no limits to his rapacity, for
+he is always eating and always hungry. The print of the raccoon's
+paw in the mud or snow is easily recognized, much resembling the
+impression made by the foot of a babe.
+
+The best season for trapping the coon is late in the fall, winter,
+and early spring, or from and between the months of October and
+April. During this time the pelts are in excellent condition. Early
+in the spring when the snow is disappearing, the coons come out
+of their hiding places to start on their foraging tours; and at
+this time are particularly susceptible to a tempting bait, and
+they may be successfully trapped in the following manner:--
+
+Take a steel trap and set it on the edge of some pool, or stream
+where the coons are known to frequent: let it be an inch
+[Page 174]
+or so under the water, and carefully chained to a clog. The bait
+may consist of a fish, frog, or head of a fowl, scented with Oil
+of Anise, and suspended over the traps about two feet higher, by
+the aid of a sapling secured in the ground. (See title page at
+the head of this section.) The object of this is to induce the
+animal to jump for it, when he will land with his foot in the trap.
+Another method is to construct a V shaped pen set the trap near
+the entrance, and, fastening the bait in the angle, cover the trap
+loosely with leaves, and scent the bait as before with the anise.
+The trap should be at such a distance from the bait that the animal,
+in order to reach it, will be obliged to tread upon the pan, which
+he will be sure to do, his greed overcoming his discretion. Any
+arrangement whereby the animal will be obliged to tread upon the
+trap in order to reach the bait will be successful.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The beaten track of the coons may often be discovered in soft ground,
+and a trap carefully concealed therein will soon secure its victim.
+Another method is to set the trap near the coon tracks, spreading a
+few drops of anise on the pan and covering the whole with leaves.
+The coon, attracted by the scent, will feel around in the leaves for
+[Page 175]
+the bait, and thus "put his foot in it."
+
+In the South they construct a coon trap from a hollow log, either
+having the ends supplied with lids, which fall just like the Rat
+trap page 100 as the animal passes through, or else constructed
+with nooses, similar to the Box-snare, page 56. Box traps of a
+style similar to that described on page 103 are also excellent, and
+a strong twitch-up, of any of the various kinds we have described,
+will be found to work admirably.
+
+Many of the suggestions in trapping the mink, page 190, will be
+found equally, serviceable in regard to the coon.
+
+The skin of this animal should be removed as recommended for the
+fox, and similarly stretched. It may also be skinned by first ripping
+up the belly, and spread on a hoop stretcher. page 275.
+
+
+THE BADGER.
+
+The American Badger is mostly confined to the Northwestern parts
+of the United States, and it is a curious little animal. In size
+its body is slightly smaller than the fox. Its general color is
+grey, approaching to black on the head and legs. There is a white
+streak extending from the tip of the animal's long nose over the
+top of the head and fading off near the shoulders. The cheeks are
+also white, and a broad and definitely marked black line extends
+from the snout back around the eyes ending at the neck. The grey
+of this animal is produced from the mixture of the varied tints
+of its fur, each hair presenting a succession of shades. At the
+root it is of a deep grey; this fades into a tawny yellow, and
+is followed by a black, the hair being finally tipped with white.
+The fur is much used in the manufacture of fine paint brushes, a
+good "Badger blender" being a most useful accessory in the painter's
+art. The badger is slow and clumsy in its actions, except when
+engaged in digging, his capacities in this direction being so great
+as to enable him to sink himself into the ground with marvellous
+rapidity. The nest of the animal is made in the burrow, and the
+young are three or four in number. His diet is as variable and
+extensive as that of the coon, and consists of anything in any
+way eatable. Snails, worms, rats, mice and moles, seem to have
+a particular attraction for him; and he seems to take especial
+delight in unearthing the stores of the wild bees, devouring honey,
+wax and grubs together, and caring as little for the stings of the
+[Page 176]
+angry bees as he would of the bills of so many mosquitoes, the thick
+coating of fur forming a perfect protection against his winged
+antagonists. The badger is very susceptible to human influence, and
+can be effectually tamed with but little trouble. Although his general
+appearance would not indicate it, he is a sly and cunning animal, and
+not easily captured in a trap of any kind. He has been known to set
+at defiance all the traps that were set for him, and to devour
+the baits without suffering for his audacity. He will sometimes
+overturn a trap and spring it from the under side, before attempting
+to remove the bait. Although not quite as crafty as the fox, it is
+necessary to use much of the same caution in trapping the badger,
+as a bare trap seldom wins more than a look of contempt from the
+wary animal.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The usual mode of catching the creature is to set the trap size
+No. 3 at the mouth of its burrow, carefully covering it with loose
+earth and securing it by a chain to a stake. Any of the methods
+used in trapping the fox will also be found to work admirably.
+The dead-fall or garrote will also do good service. Bait with a
+rat, mouse, or with whatever else the animal is especially fond,
+and scent with Oil of Anise or Musk. In early spring, while the
+ground is still hard, badgers are easily captured by flooding their
+burrows. After being satisfied that the animal is in its hole,
+proceed to pour in pailful after pailful of water at the entrance.
+[Page 177]
+He will not long be able to stand this sort of thing, and he may
+be secured as he makes his exit at the opening of the burrow.
+
+The skin should be removed whole, as in the case of the fox, or
+as described for the beaver, and stretched as therein indicated.
+
+
+THE BEAVER.
+
+The Beaver of North America has now a world-wide reputation for
+its wonderful instinct and sagacity. The general appearance of
+this animal is that of a very large muskrat with a broad flattened
+tail, and the habits of both these animals are in many respects
+alike. The beaver is an amphibious creature and social in its habits
+of living, large numbers congregating together and forming little
+villages, and erecting their dome-like huts like little Esquimaux.
+The muskrat has this same propensity, but the habitation of the
+beaver is on a much more extensive scale. These huts or "Beaver
+lodges," are generally made in rivers and brooks; although sometimes
+in lakes or large ponds. They are chiefly composed of branches,
+moss, grass and mud, and are large enough to accommodate a family
+of five or six. The form of the "lodges" is dome-like, and it varies
+considerably in size. The foundation is made on the bottom of the
+river, and the hut is built up like a mound, often twenty feet
+in diameter and projecting several feet above the surface of the
+water. The walls of this structure are often five or six feet thick,
+and the roofs are all finished off with a thick layer of mud laid on
+with marvellous smoothness. These huts form the winter habitations
+of the beavers, and as this compost of mud, grass and branches
+becomes congealed into a solid mass by the severe frosts of our
+northern winter, it can easily be seen that they afford a safe
+shelter against any intruder and particularly the wolverine, which
+is a most deadly enemy to the beaver. So hard does this frozen mass
+become as to defy even the edges of iron tools, and the breaking
+open of the "Beaver houses" is at no time an easy task. Beavers
+work almost entirely in the dark; and a pond which is calm and
+placid in the day time will be found in the night to be full of
+life and motion, and the squealing and splashing in the water will
+bear evidence of their industry. Lest the beavers should not have
+a sufficient depth of water at all seasons, they are in the habit
+of constructing veritable dams to ensure that result. These dams
+display a wonderful amount of reason and skill, and, together with
+the huts, have won for the beaver a reputation
+[Page 178]
+for engineering skill which the creature truly deserves. In constructing
+these ingenious dams the beavers, by the aid of their powerful teeth,
+gnaw down trees sometimes of large size, and after cutting them into
+smaller pieces float them on the water to the spot selected for
+the embankment. In swift streams this embankment is built so as
+to arch against the current, thus securing additional strength,
+and evincing an instinct on the part of the animal which amounts
+almost to reason. In cutting down the trees the beaver gnaws a
+circular cut around the trunk, cutting deepest on the side toward
+the water, thus causing the trunk to fall into the stream. The
+first step in constructing the embankment is to lay the logs down
+cautiously in the required line of the dam, afterwards weighting
+them with heavy stones, which the beavers by their united efforts
+roll upon them. The foundation of the embankment is often ten feet
+in width, and is built up by continued heaping of branches, stones
+and mud, until it forms a barrier of immense strength and resisting
+power. In many cases, through a lapse of years, and through a
+[Page 179]
+consequent accumulation of floating leaves, twigs, and seeds of plants,
+these embankments become thickly covered with vegetation, and, in many
+cases in the Hudson Bay country, have even been known to nurture trees
+of considerable dimensions. The broad flat tail of the animal serves a
+most excellent purpose, in carrying the mud to the dams or huts, and
+in matting and smoothing it into a solidity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The entrances to the various huts are all beneath the water, and
+they all open into one common ditch, which is purposely dug in
+the bed of the river, and is too deep to be entirely frozen. In
+the summer time the huts are vacated, and the beavers make their
+abode in burrows on the banks of the stream, which serve as a secure
+retreat at all times, and particularly in winter when their houses
+are molested. The Indians of the Northwest are aware of this fact,
+and turn it to good account in the capture of the animals.
+
+When the beaver's village is in a small creek, or brook, it is
+first necessary to stake the water across both above and below
+the huts. The next thing is to ascertain the exact spots of the
+burrows in the banks, and when we consider the river is covered
+with ice, this seems a rather difficult problem. But this is where
+the Indian shows his skill. He starts upon the ice, provided with
+an ice chisel secured to a long, stout handle. With this he strikes
+upon the ice, following the edge of the stream. The sound of the
+blow determines to his practiced ear the direct spot opposite the
+opening of the burrows, and at this point a hole a foot in diameter
+is made through the ice. Following the edge of the bank he continues
+his search, and in like manner cuts the holes through the ice until
+all the retreats are discovered. While the expert Indians are thus
+engaged, the "squaws" are occupied in the more laborious work of
+breaking open the houses, and the beavers, alarmed at the invasion of
+their sanctums, make for the banks, and the ready huntsmen stationed
+at the various holes, watch for their victims beneath the openings,
+until a violent motion or discoloration of the water betrays their
+passage beneath. The entrance to the holes in the bank are then
+instantly closed with stakes and the beaver is made prisoner in
+his burrow. When the depth of the burrow will admit, the arm of
+the hunter is introduced, and the animal pulled out, but otherwise
+a long hook lashed to a pole is employed for this purpose. Scores
+of beavers are sometimes taken in this way in a few hours. Spearing
+is also often successfully resorted to, and when the ice is thin
+[Page 180]
+and transparent the beavers may be clearly observed as they come
+to the surface, beneath the ice, for air.
+
+The general color of the animal is reddish brown, this tint being
+imparted principally by the long hairs of the fur. There is an
+inner and softer down of a grey color, which lies next the skin,
+and which is the valuable growth of the fur. The total length of
+the animal is about three feet and a half, the flat, paddle-shaped,
+scale-covered tail being about a foot in length.
+
+The young are brought forth in April or May, from three to seven
+at a litter, and take to the water when a month old. The first
+four years in the beaver's life is spent under the "maternal roof,"
+after which period they shift for themselves. To trap the beaver
+successfully, requires the utmost caution, as the senses of the
+animal are so keen, and he is so sagacious withal, that he will detect
+the recent presence of the trapper from the slightest evidences.
+The traps should be washed clean and soaked in ley, before using,
+and thereafter handled with gloves, as a mere touch of the finger
+will leave a scent which the acute sense of the beaver will easily
+perceive. All footprints should be carefully obliterated by throwing
+water upon them, and some trappers say that the mere act of spitting
+on the ground in the neighborhood of the traps has been known to
+thwart success.
+
+Almost the only bait used in trapping the beaver is the preparation
+called "barkstone" by the trappers, or "castoreum" in commerce.
+This substance is fully described on page 150 under the head of
+"Scent Baits."
+
+To the barkstone the trapper is mostly indebted for his success,
+and the effect of its odor on the beaver is something surprising.
+Our best trappers inform us that these animals will scent this
+odor for a great distance, and will fairly "squeal with delight,"
+not being easy until the savory bait is discovered, which almost
+invariably results in capture.
+
+Taking advantage of this curious propensity, the trapper always
+carries a supply of castoreum in a closed vessel.
+
+There are various ways of trapping the beaver, of which we shall
+present the best. An examination of the river bank will easily
+disclose the feeding place of the beavers, as evinced by the absence
+of the bark on the branches and trunks of trees. At this spot,
+in about four inches of water, set your trap, which should be a
+Newhouse No. 4. Weight the end of the chain with a stone as large
+as your head, and, if possible, rest it on the edge of some rock
+projecting into deep water, having a smaller rope or chain leading
+from the stone to the shore. A small twig, the size of your little
+[Page 181]
+finger, should then be stripped of its bark, and after chewing or
+mashing one end, it should be dipped in the castoreum. Insert this
+stick in the mud, between the jaws of the trap, letting it project
+about six inches above the water. The beaver is soon attracted by the
+odor of the bait, and in reaching for it, his foot is caught in the
+trap. In his fright he will immediately jump for deep water, thus
+dislodging the stone, which will sink him to the bottom, and thus
+drown him. The smaller chain or rope will serve as a guide to the
+trap, and the victim may be drawn to the surface. Another plan is
+to set the trap in about a foot of water, chaining it fast to a stout
+pole securely driven in the mud further out in the stream, and
+near deep water. Bait as before. The trap being thus fastened will
+prevent the efforts of the animal to drag it ashore, where he would
+be certain to amputate his leg and walk off. There is another method,
+which is said to work excellently. The chain is secured to a very
+heavy stone, and sunk in deep water, and the trap set and baited
+near shore, in about a foot of water. This accomplishes the same
+purpose as the pole first described, and is even surer, as the animal
+will sometimes use his teeth in severing the wood, and thereby make
+his escape. In the case of the stone a duplicate rope or chain
+will be required to lift it in case of capture.
+
+The trap may be set at the entrance to the holes in the banks,
+two or three inches under water, implanting the stick with the
+castoreum bait directly over the pan, a few inches above the water.
+If the water should be deep near this spot, it is an excellent plan
+to weight the end of the chain with a large stone with a "leader"
+from it also, as already described. Insert two or three sticks in
+the bank beneath the water, and rest the stone upon them.
+
+When the beaver is caught he will turn a somersault into deep water,
+at the same time dislodging the stone, which will sink him. No sooner
+is a break ascertained in the dam than all the beavers unite in
+fixing it, and this peculiarity of habit may be turned to account in
+trapping them. Make a slight break in the dam, five inches across,
+beneath the water. On the under side of the break, and of course,
+on the inside of the dam, the trap should be set. The beavers will
+soon discover the leak and the capture of at least _one_ is certain.
+The trap may be also set where the beavers are wont to crawl on
+shore, being placed several inches below the water in such a position
+that they will step on it when in the act of ascending the banks.
+Where the weighted stone is not used, the sliding pole page 145
+[Page 182]
+should always be employed, as it is necessary to drown the animal,
+to prevent amputation and escape.
+
+The food of the beaver consists chiefly of the bark of various
+trees, together with aquatic plants. The fur is valuable only in
+the late fall, winter, and early spring.
+
+In skinning the beaver, a slit is made from the under jaw to the
+vent, after which it is easily removed. It should be tacked to a flat
+board, fur side in, or stretched by means of a hoop, as described
+on page 275.
+
+
+THE MUSKRAT.
+
+The muskrat, or musquash, is very much like a beaver on a small
+scale, and is so well-known throughout the United States that a
+detailed description or illustration will hardly be necessary.
+Reduce the size of the beaver to one foot in length, and add a
+long flattened tail, instead of the spatula-shaped appendage of
+this animal, and we will have a pretty good specimen of a muskrat.
+The body has that same thick-set appearance, and the gnawing teeth
+are very large and powerful. Like the beaver, the muskrat builds
+its dome-like huts in ponds or swamps, which it frequents; and
+although not as large as those of the beaver they are constructed
+in the same manner and of the same materials. Muskrats are mostly
+nocturnal in their habits; they are tireless swimmers, and in the
+winter travel great distances beneath the ice; all of which
+peculiarities are like the beaver. Their food is quite variable,
+consisting of grass and roots, oats, corn and other grain, apples
+and nuts, and even tomatoes, turnips, carrots, mussels and clams,
+whenever these can be found.
+
+The muskrat is a native of all of the Eastern, Western, and Middle
+States and also the Southern States, with the exception of Georgia,
+Alabama and Florida. They are also found in Canada and the Arctic
+regions, and in the North-west. They are hunted and captured as
+a means of support to the native tribes of Indians who sell or
+trade the furs to Eastern dealers. The fur somewhat resembles that
+of the mink in texture, although not as fine, and the color varies
+from dark brown above to grey beneath. It is in its best condition
+during the winter, especially in March. The animal possesses a
+musky smell, from which it takes its name. It is said by many that
+the flesh of the animal, when carefully prepared, becomes quite
+palatable food.
+
+Their houses are so nearly like those of the beaver that a
+[Page 183]
+second description is scarcely necessary. They are often five or
+six feet in height, and the entrances are all under water. Dozens
+of these huts may often be seen in ponds and marshes, and sometimes
+they exist in such numbers as to give the appearance of a veritable
+Esquimaux village. These houses are used only in the winter season.
+In general the muskrat lives in burrows, which it excavates in the
+banks of ponds or streams, bringing forth its young, from three
+to nine in number, in the nest, which it forms at the end of the
+tunnel. They are very prolific, producing three litters a year. Like
+the beaver, otter and mink, the muskrat can travel long distances
+under the ice with only one supply of fresh air, and its method
+is certainly very interesting. Before plunging beneath the ice
+the animal fills its lungs with air, and when under the water it
+swims until it can no longer hold its breath. It then rises up
+beneath the ice, empties its lungs, the air remaining in bubbles
+beneath the ice. In a short time this air absorbs sufficient oxygen
+from the water and ice as to be life-sustaining, when the animal
+again inhales it and proceeds on its journey. It is by this means
+that the beaver, muskrat and mink are enabled to travel such great
+distances beneath unbroken ice, and it is certainly a very novel
+and interesting method. Where the ice is thin and transparent these
+animals are sometimes captured through the means of this habit.
+A heavy stroke on the frozen hut will drive its occupants to the
+water, and their course may easily be followed through the ice.
+If one of them is tracked, he will presently be seen to stop at
+the surface of the water for fresh oxygen, as already described.
+The bubbles will soon appear, and if the hunter immediately strikes
+with an axe or heavy stick directly on the spot, the submerged
+animal will be literally driven away from its breath, and will
+of course drown in a very few minutes. A short search will soon
+reveal the dead creature, after which he may be taken out through
+a hole cut in the ice. Otter and mink are sometimes taken in the
+same way. In many localities great numbers of muskrats are also
+captured by spearing, either through the ice or through the walls
+of their houses. In the latter case, two are often taken at once.
+This method is quite uncertain and unreliable, as the walls of
+the hut are often so firmly frozen as to defy the thrust of the
+hardest steel, and a fruitless attempt will drive the inmates from
+their house at once. The spear generally used consists of a single
+shaft of steel about eighteen inches in length and half an inch
+in diameter, barbed at the point, and is feruled to a
+[Page 184]
+solid handle five feet long. In spearing through the hut the south
+side is generally selected, as being more exposed to the heat of
+the sun. Great caution is necessary, as the slightest noise will
+drive out the inmates. The spear should be thrust in a slanting
+direction, a few inches above the surface of the ice. Where many
+houses exist it is well to destroy all but one. Into this the whole
+tribe will centre, and by successive spearing they may all be captured.
+When the spear has been thrust into the house, it must be thus
+left until a hole is cut with a hatchet, through which to remove
+the game. Spearing through the ice is a better method, but for
+general service there is no means of capture more desirable than
+by trapping. The steel trap No. 1 or 2 is the size particularly
+adapted for the muskrat, and may be set in various ways. The most
+common method is to set the trap under two inches of water on the
+projecting logs or stones on the border of the streams where the
+"signs" of the animal indicate its recent presence. The trap should
+of course be secured by a chain, ringed to a sliding pole, page
+145, which will lead the animal into deep water when captured,
+and thus effect its speedy death by drowning. In this case bait is
+not necessary. If their feeding grounds can be discovered, or if
+their tracks indicate any particular spot where they crawl ashore
+at the water's edge, at this point a trap may be set with good
+success. In this instance it is well also to set it under water,
+baiting with a piece of turnip, parsnip, apple, or the like, suspended
+a few inches above the pan of the trap. Late in the fall, when
+collecting their building material, they often form large beds of
+dried grasses and sticks, and a trap set in these beds and covered
+with some loose substance, such as grass, chaff, or the like, will
+often secure the animal. The trap, in this case should be attached
+to a spring-pole, page 145 as the muskrat is a wonderful adept
+at self-amputation, when its escape depends upon it.
+
+The trap is sometimes set in the interior of the house, and may
+be accomplished by first breaking an opening in the wall, near
+the ice, the trap being inserted and set, afterwards covering it
+with the loose grass and moss, which is generally abundant in the
+interior of these huts. When this is done, the chain should be
+secured to a stick on the outside, and the hole repaired. No spring
+or sliding-pole is necessary in this method, as the animal when
+caught will immediately run for the water, and the weight of the
+trap will sink and drown its prisoner.
+
+Scent baits are sometimes used in trapping the muskrat, the
+[Page 185]
+musk taken from the female animal being particularly valued. The
+Oils of Rhodium and Amber, page 151 are also successfully employed
+by many trappers; a few drops of either in the neighborhood of
+the trap, or directly upon it, being sufficient.
+
+Although steel traps are most generally used, there are several
+other devices which are equally if not even _more_ desirable. Chief
+among these is the barrel trap, commonly and successfully employed
+in many parts of New England, where these animals often exist in
+such numbers as to render their destruction a matter of necessity.
+
+The above trap consists merely of an old barrel, sunk to its upper
+edge in the river bank, and about half filled with water. On the
+surface of the water a few light pieces of wood are floated, over
+which the bait, consisting of carrot, sweet apple, or turnip, is
+placed. A trail is then made by dragging a piece of scented meat
+from the barrel in various directions, and a few pieces of the
+bait are also strewn along these trails. The muskrats will thus
+be led to the barrel, and will be certain to jump in after the
+tempting morsels, and their escape is impossible. No less than
+a dozen muskrats have been thus caught in a single barrer in one
+night, and a few of these traps have been known almost to exterminate
+the musquashes in localities where they had previously existed in
+such numbers as to become a pestilence to the neighborhood.
+
+A barrel trap constructed on the principle described on page 131
+is also equally effective, although rather more complicated in
+construction. The Twitch-up is often used, and possesses the advantage
+of a trap and spring-pole combined. Box traps, page 103, are also
+to be recommended.
+
+The skin of the muskrat may be removed in the same manner as hereinafter
+described for the otter, with the exception of the tail. This is
+considered the best method. It may also be taken off flat by ripping
+from the under jaw to the vent, and peeling around the eyes and
+mouth, letting the skin of the legs come off whole, without cutting.
+
+Another common method consists in cutting off the feet, and then
+ripping with a knife from the front of the lower jaw down the neck
+and belly to a point a little beyond the forelegs. The lips, eyes, and
+ears are then carefully skinned, and the hide is stripped backwards
+from the body. In the latter method the bow-stretcher, page 274,
+is used.
+
+
+[Page 186]
+THE OTTER.
+
+The fur of this animal is of such exquisite softness and beauty
+as to be in great demand for commercial purposes, bringing a very
+high price in the fur market.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The otter cannot be said to be a common animal, although it is
+found throughout the United States and Canada, being rather more
+plentiful in the cold northern localities than in the southern
+latitudes. It is an amphibious animal, and can remain for a long
+time beneath the water. In size it is larger than a cat, and it
+possesses a tapering tail some eighteen inches in length. Its fur
+is of a rich brown color, and the hair is of two kinds, the one a
+close, fine, and exquisitely soft down, which lies next the skin,
+and which serves to protect the animal from the extremes of heat and
+cold, and the other composed of long shining coarser hairs, which
+permit the animal to glide easily through the water. In producing
+the beautiful otter furs of fashion these long hairs are plucked
+out, leaving only the softer down next the hide. The food of the
+otter mostly consists of fish, for the pursuit of which he has
+been admirably endowed by nature. His body is lithe and supple,
+and his feet are furnished with a broad web, which connects the
+toes, and is of infinite service in propelling the animal through
+[Page 187]
+the water when in search of his finny prey. His long, broad and flat
+tail serves as a most effectual rudder, and the joints of his powerful
+legs are so flexible as to permit of their being turned in almost any
+direction.
+
+The habitation of the otter is made in the banks of the river which
+it frequents, or sometimes in a hollow log or crevice beneath rocks.
+The animal generally prefers to adopt and occupy a natural hollow
+or deserted excavation, rather than to dig a burrow for itself.
+The nest is composed of dry rushes, grasses and sticks, and the
+young, three or four in number, are produced in early spring.
+
+The _track_ which the otter makes in the mud or snow is easily
+distinguished from that of any other animal, on account of the
+"seal" or impression which is made by a certain ball on the sole of
+the foot. Otter hunting is a favorite sport in England, and indeed
+in the northern parts of our own country. Hounds are used to pursue
+the animal, and on account of the powerfully scented secretion with
+which the creature is furnished by nature, its track is readily
+followed. When attacked, the otter is a fierce and terrible fighter,
+biting and snapping with most deadly energy and never yielding as
+long as life remains in the body. The bite of an angry otter is
+extremely severe, and for this reason we would caution the amateur
+trapper on handling the animal should one be taken alive.
+
+Although so fierce and savage when attacked, the otter is easily
+tamed when taken young, and can be taught to catch fish for the
+service of its master, rather than for the gratification of its
+own palate.
+
+In the winter when the snow is on the ground, the otter navigates
+by sliding, and when on the ice he may often be seen to run a few
+steps and then throw himself on his belly and slide the distance
+of several feet. They are very fond of playing in the snow, and
+make most glorious use of any steep snow-covered bank, sloping
+toward the river. Ascending to the top of such an incline they
+throw themselves on the slippery surface and thus slide swiftly
+into the water. This pastime is often continued for hours, and
+is taken advantage of in trapping the playful creatures. A short
+search will reveal the place where they crawl from the water on
+to the bank, and at this spot, which will generally be shallow,
+a steel trap should be set on the bed of the river, about four
+inches under water. The trap should be secured by a stout chain,
+the latter being ringed to a sliding pole, page 145, which will
+lead the animal when caught into deep
+[Page 188]
+water. If deep water is not near at hand, the spring pole, page
+144, may be used, the object of either being to prevent the animal
+from gnawing off its leg and thus making its escape.
+
+The trap may also be placed at the top or the slide, two or three
+feet back of the slope, a place being hollowed out to receive it
+and the whole covered with snow. To make success more certain a
+log may be laid on each side of the trap, thus forming an avenue
+in which the animal will be sure to run before throwing itself on
+the slope. Care should be taken to handle nothing with the bare
+hands, as the otter is very keen scented and shy. Anoint the trap
+with a few drops of fish oil or otter musk, see page 151. If none
+of these are handy, ordinary musk will answer very well.
+
+The trap may also be set and weighted with a heavy stone and chain,
+as described for trapping the beaver. Another method still is to
+find some log in the stream having one end projecting above water.
+Sprinkle some musk on this projecting end and set the trap on the
+log in three or four inches of water, securing it firmly by a chain,
+also beneath the water.
+
+A rock which projects over the stream may also be utilized in the
+same way as seen in the page title at the opening of this section.
+Smear the musk on the edge which juts into the water, and secure
+the trap by the chain as before. When the animal is caught he will
+fall or jump into the water, and the weight of the trap and chain
+will sink him. In every case it is necessary to obliterate every
+sign of human presence by throwing water over every foot print, and
+over everything with which the naked hands have come in contact.
+Where the traps are thus set in the water it should be done while
+wading or in a boat. In the winter when the ponds and rivers are
+frozen over the otters make holes through the ice at which they
+come up to devour their prey. Where the water is a foot deep beneath
+any of these holes the trap may be set in the bottom, the chain
+being secured to a heavy stone. When the otter endeavors to emerge
+from the hole he will press his foot on the trap and will thus
+be caught. If the water is deep beneath the hole the trap may be
+baited with a small fish attached to the pan, and then carefully
+lowered with its chain and stone to the bottom. For this purpose
+the Newhouse, No. 3, is best adapted, as the otter is in this case
+caught by the head.
+
+The beaten track of the animal may often be discovered in the snow
+in the winter time, and a trap carefully sunk in such a furrow
+and covered so as to resemble its surroundings, will be likely
+to secure the first otter that endeavors to pass over it. A trap
+set at the mouth of the otter's burrow and carefully covered
+[Page 189]
+is also often successful, using the sliding pole, page 145, to lead
+him into deep water.
+
+Every trapper has his pet theories and methods of trapping all
+the different animals, and the otter has its full share. We have
+given several of the _best_ methods; and anyone of them will secure
+the desired result of capture, and all of them have stood the test
+of time and experience.
+
+The skin of the otter should be removed whole, and the operation
+may be performed in the following manner: Slit down the hind legs
+to the vent; cut the skin loose around the vent, and slit up the
+entire length of the tail, freeing it from the bone. With the aid
+of the knife the skin should now be peeled off, drawing it backward
+and carefully cutting around the mouth and eyes before taking it
+from the head.
+
+With the fur thus inside, the skin is ready for the stretcher as
+described on page 273, and the tail should be spread out and tacked
+around the edges.
+
+
+THE MINK.
+
+This animal, as will be seen by our illustration, has a long, slender
+body, something like the weasel, to which scientific family it
+belongs. It inhabits the greater part of North America, and is also
+found abundantly in Northern Europe. The color of its fur varies
+considerably in different individuals, the general tint being a rich,
+dark brown. The chin and throat are light colored, sometimes white,
+and this spot varies considerably in size in different individuals,
+sometimes extending down on the throat to a considerable distance.
+The total length of the animal is from thirteen to sixteen inches,
+its size being variable.
+
+The fur of the mink is excellent in quality, and has for many years
+been one of the "fancy furs" of fashion, a good prime skin often
+bringing from ten to twelve dollars. The introduction of the fur
+seal, however, and the universal demand for this as well as otter
+fur, has somewhat thrown the mink into comparative shade, although
+extra fine skins will still command high prices.
+
+The mink is an aquatic animal, inhabiting small rivers and streams,
+and living somewhat after the manner of the otter. It has a most
+wide range of diet, and will eat almost anything which is at all
+eatable. Fishes, frogs, and muskrats are his especial delight,
+and he will occasionally succeed in pouncing upon a snipe or wild
+duck, which he will greedily devour. Craw
+[Page 190]
+fish, snails, and water insects of all kinds also come within the
+range of his diet, and he sometimes makes a stray visit to some
+neighboring poultry yard to satisfy the craving of his abnormal
+hunger. A meal off from his own offspring often answers the same
+purpose; and a young chicken in the egg he considers the ne plus
+ultra of delicacies. The voracity of this animal is its leading
+characteristic, and is so largely in excess of its cunning or sagacity
+that it will often run headlong into a naked trap. Its sense of
+smell is exceedingly well developed, and through this faculty it
+is often enabled to track its prey with ease and certainty. The
+mink lives in burrows, in steep banks, or between rocks or the
+roots of trees, and the young, five or six in number, are brought
+forth in May.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The chief occupation of the mink consists in perpetual search for
+something to eat, and, when so engaged, he may be seen running
+along the bank of the stream, peering into every nook and corner,
+and literally "leaving no stone unturned" in its eager search.
+Taking advantage of this habit, it becomes an easy matter to trap
+the greedy animal. Set your trap, a Newhouse No. 2, in an inch
+of water near the edge of the stream, and directly in front of
+a steep bank or rock, on which you can place your bait. The bait
+may be a frog, fish, or head of a
+[Page 191]
+bird, suspended about eighteen inches above the water, and should
+be so situated that in order to reach it, the mink will be obliged
+to tread upon the trap. The trap may also be set in the water and
+the bait suspended eighteen inches above it, by the aid of a switch
+planted in the mud near the trap. It is a good plan to scent the
+bait with an equal mixture of sweet oil and peppermint, with a
+little honey added. If there is deep water near, the sliding pole,
+page 145, should be used, and if not, the "spring pole" in every
+case, in order to prevent the captured mink from becoming a prey to
+larger animals, and also to guard against his escape by amputation,
+which he would otherwise most certainly accomplish.
+
+The trap may be set on the land, near the water's edge, baiting
+as just described, and lightly covered with leaves or dirt. Any
+arrangement of the trap whereby the animal is obliged to tread
+upon it in order to secure the bait, will be found effectual.
+
+The trap may be set at the foot of a tree, and the bait fastened
+to the trunk, eighteen inches above it. A pen, such as is described
+on page 144, may be constructed, and the trap and bait arranged as
+there directed. Minks have their regular beaten paths, and often
+visit certain hollow logs in their runways. In these logs they
+leave unmistakable signs of their presence, and a trap set in such
+a place is sure of success.
+
+Some trappers set a number of traps along the stream at intervals
+of several rods, connecting them by a trail, see page 153, the mink
+being thus led directly and almost certainly to his destruction.
+This trail is made by smearing a piece of wood with the "medicine"
+described at page 153, and dragging it on the line of the traps.
+Any mink which crosses this trail will follow it to the first trap,
+when he will, in all probability, be captured. A dead muskrat, crow,
+fish, or a piece of fresh meat dragged along the line answers the
+same purpose. The beaten tracks of the mink may often be discovered,
+and a trap set in such a track and covered with leaves, dirt or the
+like, will often be successful.
+
+Minks may also be easily caught in the dead-fall. Garrote trap
+or a twitch-up, baiting with fish, muskrat, flesh, or the head
+of a bird, of which the animal is especially fond. A liberal use
+of the "medicine" is also desirable.
+
+The fur of the mink is in its best condition in the late autumn,
+winter, and early spring, and the animal should be skinned as described
+for the fox.
+
+
+[Page 192]
+THE PINE MARTEN.
+
+This animal belongs to the tribe of "weasels," and is closely allied
+to the celebrated sable, which it greatly resembles. The pine marten
+is so called because it inhabits the northern climates where pine
+forests abound, and spends much of its life in the trees in search
+of its prey. Its general appearance is truly represented in our
+illustration, its fur being of a rich brown color, with a lighter
+or white patch on the throat. Its total length, including the tail,
+is about twenty-eight or thirty inches, of which the tail represents
+ten inches. It is mostly confined to the forests in the far north,
+and is comparatively rare further south than the latitude of Maine
+and the lakes. The fur of the pine marten is of considerable value,
+particularly if the animal be killed in the winter. A really fine
+skin is but little inferior to the celebrated sable, and is hardly
+distinguishable from it. The hair is long and glossy, and the under
+fur is beautifully soft and very thick. The dark colored skins are
+the most valuable. Although so nearly like the sable, the same
+comparison does not exist in regard to their proportionate market
+values, the marten fur bringing a much lower price.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The marten is a shy and wary animal, withdrawing itself as far
+as possible from the sight of man, and building its habitation in
+the tops of trees, often seizing on the ready nest of some squirrel
+or bird, and adapting it to its purposes.
+
+[Page 193]
+It is a night prowler, and in the dark hours it traverses the trunks
+and branches of the trees in search of its prey. It moves with
+wonderful stealth and activity, and is enabled by its rapid and
+silent approach to steal unnoticed on many an unfortunate bird
+or squirrel, seizing it in its deadly grip before the startled
+creature can think to escape. Coming across a bird's nest, it makes
+sad havoc with the eggs or young, often adding the parent bird
+to his list of victims. Rabbits, partridges, and mice also fall
+into the marten's "bill of fare," and the list is often further
+increased by a visit to a poultry yard, when the animal murders
+and eats all it can and kills the rest for sport. In pouncing upon
+its prey, the marten invariably seizes its victim by the throat,
+often dispatching the luckless creature with a single bite.
+
+The martens generally are said to be very susceptible to human
+influence when taken young, and are very lively in a state of
+domestication. They are among the most graceful of animals, and
+in place of the disagreeable scent which renders many of their
+tribe offensive, this creature possesses an odor which is quite
+agreeable, and for this reason is often called the sweet marten
+in contradistinction to the foul marten or pole cat of Britain,
+which is like unto our skunk in the disgusting stench which it
+exhales.
+
+The dead-fall and Garrote traps are very successful in trapping
+the martin. They should be set several rods apart, in the forest
+or on the banks of streams, and a trail established by dragging
+a dead or roasted crow, entrails of a bird, or fresh meat from
+one trap to another, as described in relation to the mink, page
+190. The twitch-up may also be used, and possesses the additional
+advantage of acting as a spring pole, thus holding the captured
+victim out of reach of larger animals, to which it might otherwise
+become a prey. Any of the varieties described under the title of
+"twitch-up" will answer the purpose, and a little experimenting
+will soon prove which one will be the most successful for this
+particular animal. The bait may consist of a bird's or fowl's head,
+fish, liver, or any fresh meat or entrails.
+
+The common box trap, page 103, or the box snare, page 56, may also
+be used to good purpose, but the former will need to be carefully
+watched lest the enclosed prisoner gnaw his way out and thus escape.
+
+When the steel trap is employed, it should be of the size of Newhouse,
+No. 2-1/2, set on the ground beneath some rock,
+[Page 194]
+and covered with leaves, rotten wood, or earth, and the bait fastened
+or suspended about eighteen inches above it, in such a position
+that the animal will be obliged to step upon the trap in order to
+reach it. An enclosure may be constructed of stones piled together,
+the trap being set and covered in the opening and the bait secured
+at the back. A staked pen, such as is described on page 143, with
+the trap and bait arranged as there directed, also works well.
+Wherever or however the trap is set, the bait should be so placed
+that the animal cannot possibly climb on any neighboring object to
+reach it. The hollow of a tree trunk forms an excellent situation
+for the trap, and the same hollow may also be baited at the back
+and a dead-fall constructed across its opening. The box or barrel
+pit-fall, described on page 127, is said to be very successful in
+trapping the marten, always baiting it with the platform secure
+for a few days before setting for capture. The same methods directed
+for the capture of the mink are also useful in trapping the marten.
+The animal should be skinned as described for the fox.
+
+
+THE FISHER.
+
+This animal is classed among the martens, and is principally to
+be found in Canada and the Northern United States, where it is
+known as the black cat, or woodshock. In our natural histories it
+is described under the name of the pekan.
+
+In general habits, this species resembles the other martens, but its
+body inclines more to the weasel shape. The fur is quite valuable,
+and much resembles the sable. Its color is generally of a greyish
+brown, the grey tint being found chiefly on the back, neck, head
+and shoulders, the legs, tail, and back of the neck being marked
+with dark brown. Like the marten, the fisher prowls by night,
+frequenting swampy places in quest of food.
+
+It builds its habitation in hollow trees, and in burrows, which it
+excavates in the banks of rivers or streams, and its young (generally
+twins) are produced in early spring. The trapping season for the
+fisher commences at about the middle of October, and extends to
+the middle of May, after which time the fur decreases in value.
+
+In trapping the fisher, the same plans may be used as for the marten
+and mink, as these animals much resemble each other in general
+habits. The steel trap arranged in an artificial or
+[Page 195]
+natural enclosure, or otherwise so set as that the animal will be
+obliged to step on it in order to reach the bait, will be successful
+and the use of composition "scent bait," described on page 153 will
+be found to enhance success. In every case where the steel trap
+is used the spring pole, page 144, should always be employed, for
+the reasons already described.
+
+Dead-falls, garrotes, box-traps, twitch-ups, or pit-falls, may
+all be employed to good advantage. Bait with a fish or bird, or
+fresh meat of any kind, and connect the various traps by a trail,
+as described for the mink and marten.
+
+Remove the skin as directed for the fox, and stretch as described
+on page 273.
+
+
+THE SKUNK.
+
+This disgusting animal has won the unenviable but deserving reputation
+of being the most foul-smelling creature on the face of the globe.
+He belongs to the weasel tribe, and all these animals are noted
+for certain odors which they possess, but the skunk is pre-eminent
+in the utter noisomeness of the horrid effluvium which it exhales.
+
+This scent proceeds from a liquid secretion which collects in a
+gland beneath the insertion of the tail, and the animal has the
+power to eject or retain it at will.
+
+It must have been given to the creature as a means of defence,
+for there seems to be no animal that can withstand the influence
+of its fetid stench. Dogs are trained to hunt the animal, but until
+they have learned from experience the right method of attacking the
+fetid game, and have discovered the whereabouts of the animal's
+magazine of ammunition, they are of little use to the hunter, and
+are only too glad to plunge into some neighboring brook, or roll
+in some near earth, in hopes of ridding themselves of the stench
+which almost distracts them. The offensive propensities of the
+skunk are only exercised when the animal is alarmed or frightened.
+There are generally certain "premonitory symptoms" of attack which
+the creature usually exhibits, and it is well to retire from his
+"shooting range" as soon as they are observed.
+
+When the animal is ready to discharge his battery, he suddenly
+elevates his large bushy tail, over his body, and turns his back
+on his enemy. The result of the discharge fills the air for a great
+distance around, and man and beast fly from the neighborhood of
+the indescribable and fetid effluvium, which fairly makes one's
+nostrils _ache_.
+
+[Page 196]
+A single drop of this disgusting secretion on the clothes is enough
+to scent the whole garment, and it is almost impossible to rid
+the tainted fabric from the odor.
+
+It is extremely acrid in quality, and if a very small quantity
+fall upon the eyes, it is very apt to produce permanent blindness.
+
+Dogs, in their first experiences with the skunk, are frequently
+thus blinded, and there are well authenticated instances of human
+beings who have been deprived of their sight through their close
+proximity to an infuriated skunk.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The writer, in his extreme youth, learned, through dear experience,
+the putrid qualities of this noisome quadruped. It was on one bright
+Sunday, in New England, and he was out in his Sunday clothing,
+gathering wild strawberries. He suddenly discovered a pretty little
+playful animal with bushy tail, romping in the grass near him.
+The creature was seemingly gentle, and showed no inclination to
+run away, and the pet-loving nature of the writer prompted an
+irresistible desire to capture so pretty a creature. Encouraged
+by its gentle manner, he eagerly ran towards the tempting prize,
+and grasping it by the bushy tail, which the animal had raised
+perpendicularly, as if for a handle, the pretty creature was locked
+[Page 197]
+in the affectionate embrace of its youthful admirer. But alas! he
+soon repented his rashness, and the treacherous "pet" was quickly
+flung away leaving its victim in such a foul state of overwhelming
+astonishment as can be more easily imagined than described.
+
+Every article of clothing worn on that eventful Sunday had to be
+buried, and it took weeks of Sundays before the odor could be thoroughly
+eradicated from the hair and skin of the individual who wore those
+Sunday garments. After this adventure, the youth became more cautious
+with respect to pretty little playful animals, with black and white
+fur and bushy tails.
+
+There is hardly a farmer in the country but what has had some amusing
+or serious experience with the skunk, and almost every trapper
+has, at one time or another, served as a target for his shooting
+propensities. Natural histories are replete with anecdotes of which
+this animal is the mephitic hero, and volumes might be filled to
+the glory of his strong-smelling qualities.
+
+Perhaps it is through the prejudice of the writer that he cannot
+enthusiastically recommend the skunk as a domestic pet; but it
+is nevertheless asserted, on good authority, that these animals,
+when reared from the young, become very interesting and playful
+in the household, and completely shut down on their objectionable
+faculties.
+
+Our illustration gives a very good idea of the animal, and it is
+so unlike any other creature that a further description will not
+be necessary. The prevailing colors are white and black; but these
+vary much in proportion, the animal sometimes being almost totally
+white, or altogether black. The fur is long, and comparatively coarse,
+being intermixed with long, glossy hairs, and is most valuable in
+the black animal. The body of the creature is about a foot and a
+half in length, exclusive of the tail, which adds about fourteen
+inches more.
+
+The skunk is generally nocturnal in its habits, secreting itself
+during the day in hollow trees, or crevices in rocks, or wood-piles.
+At night it ventures forth in quest of its food, which consists
+chiefly of grasshoppers, worms and other insects, wild fruit and
+such small animals in the shape of frogs, mice and birds as it can
+capture. The poultry yard often offers an irresistible temptation,
+and both fowls and eggs often serve to appease his appetite.
+
+The skunk is common throughout the greater part of North America,
+and in many localities the numbers increase very
+[Page 198]
+rapidly unless checked. The young are brought forth in burrows
+or holes in rocks during April or May, and are from six to nine
+in number.
+
+"Skunk fur" does not sound well when thought of in connection with
+a set of fashionable furs; and for this reason the pelt of this
+animal is dignified by the name of Alaska sable by all dealers in
+the article. When known by this fancy title it suddenly becomes a
+very popular addition to fashion's winter wardrobe, and is one of
+the leading furs which are exported to meet the demand of foreign
+countries. Foul as the animal is, it seldom soils its own fur with
+its offensive fluid; and when carefully skinned the fur is as saleable
+as that of any other animal.
+
+The Skunk is trapped in a variety of ways; and as the animal is
+not cunning, no great skill is required. The steel trap is most
+commonly used, as other wooden varieties, box traps or dead-falls,
+for instance, are apt to absorb and retain the stench of the animal.
+In using the steel trap the size No. 2 should be taken. It may be
+set at the entrance to their burrows or in their feeding grounds.
+It should be covered with loose earth or chaff, or some other light
+substance, and baited with small bits of meat, dead mice, or eggs
+placed around it. The enclosure illustrated on page 143 also answers
+well, and in all cases the spring pole, page 144, should be used.
+The dead-fall, page 107, is often employed, and the twitch-up, page
+43, is a particularly effective contrivance for their capture, often
+preventing the evil consequences of the odor by causing instant
+dislocation of the neck, and this without injuring the fur. A stroke
+upon the backbone near the tail, by producing paralysis of the
+parts, also prevents the animal from using his offensive powers,
+and a dead-fall so constructed as to fall upon the animal at this
+part will accomplish the same effect. To manage this it is only
+necessary to place the bait far back in the enclosure, so that
+the skunk on reaching it will bring the rear portion of his body
+beneath the suspended log. The scent of the skunk is as we have
+said, almost ineradicable, but we would recommend chloride of lime
+as the most effectual antidote.
+
+It is also said by some trappers that the odor may be dissipated
+by packing the garment in fresh hemlock boughs, letting it thus
+remain for a couple of days. This is certainly a valuable hint
+if true, and is well worth remembering.
+
+For skinning the skunk, see Beaver, Otter and Fox.
+
+
+[Page 199]
+THE WOLVERINE.
+
+This, one of the most ferocious as well as detestable of American
+animals, is principally found in British America and the upper
+portion of the United States. It has won a world wide reputation
+for its fierceness and voracity, and on this account is popularly
+known as the Glutton. It is not confined to America, but is also
+found in Siberia and Northern Europe.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The general appearance of this animal, ugly in disposition as in
+appearance, is truthfully given in our illustration. It is not
+unlike a small bear in looks, and was formerly classed among that
+genus.
+
+The general color of the wolverine is dark brown. The muzzle, as
+far back as the eye-brows, is black, and the immense paws partake
+of the same hue. The claws of the animal are
+[Page 200]
+long and almost white, forming a singular contrast to the jetty fur
+of the feet. So large are the feet of this animal, and so powerful
+the claws, that a mere look at them will tell the story of their
+death dealing qualities, a single stroke from one of them often
+being sufficient for a mortal wound. Although the wolverine is
+not as large as the bear, its foot prints in the snow are often
+mistaken for those of that creature, being nearly of the same size.
+
+The glutton feeds largely on the smaller quadrupeds, and is a most
+determined foe to the beaver during the summer months; the ice-hardened
+walls of their houses serving as a perfect protection against his
+attacks in the winter time.
+
+To the trapper of the north the wolverine is a most detested enemy,
+following the rounds of the traps and either detaching the baits
+or tearing away the dead animals which have fallen a prey to them.
+The trapper's entire circuit will be thus followed in a single
+night, and where the veritable "glutton" does not care to devour
+its victim it will satisfy its ferocious instinct by scratching
+it in pieces, leaving the mutilated remains to tell the story of
+its nocturnal visit.
+
+The wolverine is a dangerous foe to many animals larger than itself,
+and by the professional hunter it is looked upon as an ugly and
+dangerous customer.
+
+There are several methods of trapping this horrid creature, and
+in many localities successful trapping of other animals will be
+impossible without first ridding the neighborhood of the wolverines.
+Dead-falls of large size will be found to work successfully, baiting
+with the body of some small animal, such as a rat or squirrel.
+A piece of cat, beaver or muskrat flesh is also excellent, and
+by slightly scenting with castoreum success will be made sure.
+Several of these traps may be set at intervals, and a trail made
+by dragging a piece of smoked beaver meat between them. The gun
+trap, as described on page 20, will also do good service in
+exterminating this useless and troublesome animal.
+
+Steel traps of size No. 3 or 4 are commonly used to good purpose.
+They may be arranged in any of the various methods already described,
+the plan of the enclosure, page 143, being particularly desirable. In
+all cases the trap should be covered with leaves, moss or the like,
+and the bait slightly scented with castoreum. Like all voracious
+animals, the perpetual greed of the wolverine completely overbalances
+its caution, and thus renders its capture an easy task.
+
+[Page 201]
+The home of the animal is generally in a crevice or cave between
+rocks, and its young, two or three in number, are brought forth
+in May.
+
+In removing the skin, it may be ripped up the belly, or taken off
+whole, as described for the fox.
+
+
+THE OPOSSUM.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The opossum is found more or less throughout nearly all the United
+States. In size it equals a large cat, the tail being about fifteen
+inches long, very flexible and covered with scales. The general
+color of the fur is grayish-white, slightly tinged with yellow,
+[Page 202]
+and the legs are of a brownish hue, which color also surrounds the
+eyes to some extent.
+
+The fur is comparatively soft and wooly, and thickly sprinkled with
+long hairs, white at the base and brown at the tips.
+
+The nature and habits of the animal are very interesting. Its nest
+is made in some sheltered hollow in an old fallen or live tree,
+or beneath overhanging roots or rocks, and composed of moss and
+dead leaves. The young are produced in several litters during the
+year, and when born are transferred by the mother to a pouch situated
+in the lower front portion of her body. Here they remain and are
+nourished by the parent until they are five weeks old, at which
+time they emerge and travel with their mother, and their little
+ring tails do them good service in holding fast to their guardian.
+It is an amusing sight to see a family of young 'possums thus linked
+together, and so "attached to each other."
+
+The opossum is a voracious and destructive animal, prowling about
+during the hours of darkness and prying into every nook and corner in
+hope of finding something that may satisfy the cravings of imperious
+hunger. Rats, mice, nuts, berries, birds, insects and eggs are all
+devoured by this animal; and when not content with these he does
+not hesitate to insinuate himself into the poultry yard, and make
+a meal on the fowls and young chickens. His fondness for fruit and
+Indian corn often leads him to commit great havoc among plantations
+and fruit trees, and his appetite for the fruit of the persimmon tree
+is proverbial. While feeding on these fruits he frequently hangs
+by his tail, as seen in our illustration, gathering the persimmons
+with his fore paws and eating them while thus suspended. He is a
+most agile climber, and his tenacity and terminal resources in
+this direction are admirably depicted in that well known Methodist
+sermon, as follows: "An' you may shake one foot loose, but 'tothers
+thar; an' you may shake _all_ his feet loose, but he laps his tail
+around the lim' an' he clings forever."
+
+He is an adept at feigning death, "playing 'possum" so skilfully
+as frequently to deceive an expert.
+
+"'Possums" are hunted in the Southern States much after the manner
+of coons; and to the negroes a "'possum hunt" signifies most unbounded
+sport."
+
+Though cunning in many ways, the opossum is singularly simple in
+others. There is hardly any animal more easily captured; for it
+will walk into the clumsiest of traps, and permit itself to be
+ensnared by a device at which an American rat would look with utter
+contempt.
+
+[Page 203]
+The dead-fall, garrote, or stout snare may all be employed, being
+baited with any of the substances already described. The steel
+trap 2-1/1 or 3 is most commonly used, being set in the haunts of
+the animal, and slightly scented with musk.
+
+See Fox and Beaver, for directions for skinning, stretching, etc.,
+etc.
+
+
+THE RABBIT.
+
+The rabbit or "cotton tail," as he is familiarly termed, is too
+well-known to need any description here. From Maine to Texas our
+woods abound with these fleet-footed little creatures, of which
+there are several American species. They are the swiftest of all
+American quadrupeds, and have been known to clear over twenty feet
+in a single leap. They are all natural burrowers, although they
+often forego the trouble of excavating a home when one can be found
+already made, and which can be easily modified or adapted to their
+purposes. The common rabbit of New England often makes its home or
+"form," beneath a pile of brush or logs, or in crevices in rocks.
+Here it brings forth its young, of which there are often three
+or four litters a year. The creature becomes a parent at a very
+early age, and by the time that a rabbit is a year old it may have
+attained the dignity of a grand parent.
+
+The food of the rabbit consists of grasses, bark, leaves, bulbs,
+young twigs, buds, berries and the like, and of cultivated vegetables
+of all kinds, when opportunity favors. When surprised in the woods
+it manifests its alarm by violently striking the ground with its
+feet, causing the peculiar sound so often noticed at their first
+jump. The animal is fond of pursuing a beaten path in the woods,
+and is often snared at such places. Its enemies, beside man, are
+the lynx, and other carnivorous animals, hawks, owls, and even
+the domestic cat.
+
+The rabbit is a favorite game with all amateur sportsmen, and the
+devices used in its capture are multitudinous. It is by no means
+a difficult animal to trap, and a glance through the second and
+fourth sections of our book, will reveal many ingenious snares
+and other contrivances, commonly and successfully used.
+
+The Box trap, page 103, is perhaps the most universal example of
+rabbit trap, but the Self-setting trap, page 110, and Double-ender,
+page 109, are also equally effective where the animal is desired
+to be taken alive. If this is not an object, the snare is to be
+recommended as simple in construction and sure in its result.
+
+[Page 204]
+The above constitute the only devices commonly used for the capture
+of the rabbit, the steel trap being dispensed with. On page 109
+will be found additional remarks concerning the rabbit, and many
+hints no baiting, etc., are also given under the heads of the various
+traps above alluded to.
+
+The skin of the rabbit is very thin and tender, and should be carefully
+removed, either as described for the fox, or in the ordinary method,
+by incision up the belly. Full directions for curing and tanning
+the skins will be found under its proper head in a later portion
+of this work.
+
+
+THE WOOD-CHUCK.
+
+This animal also called the marmot, is so well-known to most of
+our readers, that a detailed description will not be necessary,
+suffice it to say that the general color is brownish grey above,
+changing to reddish brown on the under parts. The head, tail and
+feet partaking of a darker color. The length of the animal is about
+a foot and a-half, exclusive of the tail, which is four inches
+long.
+
+The woodchuck is a clumsy looking animal, and anything but active
+in its movements. It is very unintelligent, and is always too ready
+to use its powerful teeth on the hand of any one who may attempt
+to handle it. It is naturally a timid animal, but when cornered
+or brought to bay, it fights most desperately.
+
+The woodchuck is an expert excavator, and where the animals exist
+in large numbers great damage is done by their united burrowing. They
+generally remain in their burrows during the day, only venturing out
+casually to see what is going on, and keeping near their entrance.
+Towards evening they start out to feed, devouring certain grasses
+and weeds, and also pumpkins and green corn with avidity, ever
+and anon sitting upright on their haunches, to see if the coast
+is clear. In case they are surprised in their meal, they hurry
+home in a pell-mell sort of a way, giving as much the appearance
+of rolling as running, but, nevertheless, getting over the ground
+with fair speed for such an unwieldy animal. The skin is loose and
+very tough, and possesses no commercial value, being principally
+used for whiplashes. Their burrows are generally on the slope of
+a hill, and often at the foot of a rock or tree. These tunnels
+vary from ten to thirty feet in length, sloping downward from the
+opening, afterward taking an upward turn and terminating in a roomy
+chamber, in which the animal sleeps in
+[Page 205]
+winter and where the young from three to eight in number are brought
+forth. The woodchuck is found throughout nearly the whole of the
+United States, and is especially abundant in New England, where
+it is a decided nuisance. It is found as far south as Tennessee,
+and westward to the Rocky Mountains. The flesh of the woodchuck
+is by many much esteemed as food, particularly in the Fall. When
+used for this purpose, the animal should be skinned and carefully
+cleaned immediately after death, taking especial care to remove the
+masses of fat which lie inside of the legs, as these, if allowed
+to remain, are sure to taint the flesh in cooking.
+
+The animals are easily caught by setting the traps at the entrance
+of their burrows, and carefully covering them with loose earth,
+no bait being required. They may also be captured by the aid of
+a spring-pole, with noose attached, the pole being bent down and
+caught under a notched stick, and the noose being arranged at the
+opening of the burrow, see page 43, the Woodchuck in passing in
+or out will become entangled in the noose, and in his efforts to
+escape the pole will be loosened from the peg, thus lifting the
+animal in mid-air. Woodchucks are also sometimes drowned out of
+their holes, and the turtle is often put to good use for the purpose
+of smoking the animals from their subterranean dwellings. A ball of
+wicking saturated with kerosene is attached by a wire to the tail
+of the reptile. When the ball is ignited the creature is introduced
+into the entrance of the hole, and of course in fleeing from its
+fiery pursuer it traverses the full length of the burrow, and as
+another matter of course drives out its other occupants, which
+are shot or captured as they emerge.
+
+The woodchunk's skin is generally taken off as described for the
+muskrat, and stretched accordingly.
+
+
+THE GOPHER.
+
+This remarkable little animal somewhat resembles the Mole in its
+general appearance and habits. It is also commonly known as the
+Canada Pouched Rat, and is principally found west of the Mississippi
+and northward. It is a burrowing animal, and like the Mole drives
+its subterranean tunnels in all directions, throwing up little
+hillocks at regular intervals of from five to twenty feet. Its
+body is thick set and clumsy and about ten inches long, and its
+Mole-like claws are especially adapted for digging. Its food consists
+of roots and vegetables, and its
+[Page 206]
+long and projecting incisors are powerful agents in cutting the
+roots which cross its path in making its burrow. The most striking
+characteristic of the animal, and that from which it takes its
+name, consists in the large cheek pouches which hang from each
+side of the mouth and extend back to to shoulders. They are used as
+receptacles of food which the animal hurriedly gathers when above
+ground, afterward returning to its burrow to enjoy its feast at its
+leisure. It was formerly very commonly and erroneously believed
+that the Gopher used its pouches in conveying the earth from its
+burrow, and this is generally supposed at the present day, but
+it is now known that the animal uses these pockets only for the
+conveyance of its food.
+
+The color of the fur is reddish-brown on the upper parts, fading
+to ashy-brown on the abdomen, and the feet are white.
+
+In making its tunnels, the dirt is brought to the surface, thus
+making the little mounds after the manner of the mole. After having
+dug its tunnel for several feet the distance becomes so great as
+to render this process impossible, and the old hole is carefully
+stopped up and a new one made at the newly excavated end of the
+tunnel, the animal continuing on in its labors and dumping from
+the fresh orifice. These mounds of earth occur at intervals on
+the surface of the ground, and although no hole can be discovered
+beneath them, they nevertheless serve to indicate the track of
+the burrow, which lies several inches beneath.
+
+The Gopher is a great pest to western cultivators, and by its root
+feeding and undermining propensities does extensive injury to crops
+generally. They may be successfully trapped in the following manner:
+Strike a line between the two most recent earth mounds, and midway
+between them remove a piece of the sod. By the aid of a trowel
+or a sharp stick the burrow may now be reached. Insert your hand
+in the tunnel and enlarge the interior sufficiently to allow the
+introduction of No. (0) steel trap. Set the trap flatly in the
+bottom of the burrow, and then laying a piece of shingle or a few
+sticks across the excavation replace the sod. Several traps may
+be thus set in the burrows at considerable distances apart, and a
+number of the animals thus taken. The traps are sometimes inserted
+in the burrows from the hillocks, by first finding the hole and
+then enlarging it by inserting the arm and digging with the hand
+beneath. The former method, however, is preferable.
+
+The skin of the Gopher may be pulled off the body either by cutting
+up the hind less, as described in reference to the Fox,
+[Page 207]
+or by making the incision from the lower jaw down the neck, as decided
+for the muskrat, a simple board stretcher being used.
+
+
+THE MOLE.
+
+Of all the mammalia the Mole is entitled to take the first place
+in the list of burrowers. This extraordinary creature does not
+merely dig tunnels in the ground and sit at the end of them, as is
+the case with many animals, but it forms a complicated subterranean
+dwelling place with chambers, passages and other arrangements of
+wonderful completeness. It has regular roads leading to its feeding
+grounds; establishes a system of communication as elaborate as
+that of a modern railway, or, to be more correct, as that of the
+subterranean network of the sewers of a city. It is an animal of
+varied accomplishments. It can run tolerably fast, it can fight
+like a bull-dog, it can capture prey under or above ground, it can
+swim fearlessly, and it can sink wells for the purpose of quenching
+its thirst. Take the mole out of its proper sphere, and it is awkward
+and clumsy as the sloth when placed on level ground, or the seal
+when brought ashore. Replace it in the familiar earth and it becomes
+a different being, full of life and energy, and actuated by a fiery
+activity which seems quite inconsistent with its dull aspect and
+seemingly inert form.
+
+We all know that the mole burrows under the ground, raising at
+intervals the little hillocks or "mole hills" with which we are
+so familiar; but most of us little know the extent or variety of
+its tunnels, or that the animal works on a regular system and does
+not burrow here and there at random. How it manages to form its
+burrows in such admirably straight lines, is not an easy problem,
+because it is always done in black darkness, and we know of nothing
+which can act as a guide to the animal. As for ourselves and other
+eye-possessing creatures, the feat of walking in a straight line
+with closed eyelids is almost an impossibility, and every swimmer
+knows the difficulty of keeping a straight course under water,
+even with the use of his eyes.
+
+The ordinary mole hills, so plentiful in our fields, present nothing
+particularly worthy of notice. They are merely the shafts through
+which the quadruped miner ejects the material which it has scooped
+out, as it drives its many tunnels through the soil, and if they
+be carefully opened after the rain has consolidated the heap of
+loose material, nothing more will be discovered than a simple hole
+leading into the tunnel. But let us
+[Page 208]
+strike into one of the large tunnels, as any mole catcher will
+teach us, and follow it up to the real abode of the animal. The
+hill under which this domicile is hidden, is of considerable size,
+but is not very conspicuous, being always placed under the shelter of
+a tree, shrub, or a suitable bank, and would scarcely be discovered
+but by a practiced eye. The subterranean abode within the hillock
+is so remarkable that it involuntarily reminds the observer of the
+well-known "maze," which has puzzled the earliest years of youth
+throughout many generations. The central apartment, or "keep,"
+if we so term it, is a nearly spherical chamber, the roof of which
+is almost on a level with the earth around the hill, and therefore
+situated at a considerable depth from the apex of the heap. Around
+this keep are driven two circular passages or galleries, one just
+level with the ceiling and the other at some height above. Five
+short descending passages connect the galleries with each other,
+but the only entrance into the keep is from the upper gallery,
+out of which three passages lead into the ceiling of the keep. It
+will be seen therefore that when the mole enters the house from
+one of its tunnels, it has first to get into the lower gallery
+to ascend thence into the upper gallery, and so descend into the
+central chamber. There is, however, another entrance into the keep
+from below. A passage dips downward from the centre of the chamber,
+and then, taking a curve upwards, opens into one of the larger burrows
+or high roads, as they may be fitly termed. It is a noteworthy
+fact that the high roads, of which there are several radiating in
+different directions, never open into the gallery opposite one
+of the entrances into the upper gallery. The mole therefore is
+obliged to go to the right or left as soon as it enters the domicile
+before it can find a passage to the upper gallery. By the continual
+pressure of the moles upon the walls of the passages and roof of
+the central chamber, they become quite smooth, hard, and polished,
+so that the earth will not fall in, even after the severest storm.
+
+The use of so complicated a series of cells and passages is extremely
+doubtful, and our total ignorance of the subject affords another
+reason why the habits of this wonderful animal should be better
+studied.
+
+About the middle of June the moles begin to fall in love, and are
+as furious in their attachments as in all other phases of their
+nature. At that time two male moles cannot meet without mutual
+jealousy, and they straightway begin to fight, scratching, tearing,
+and biting with such insane fury that they seem unconscious
+[Page 209]
+of anything except the heat of battle. Indeed the whole life of
+the mole is one of fury, and he eats like a starving tiger, tearing
+and rending his prey with claws and teeth, and crunching audibly
+the body of the worm between the sharp points. Magnify the mole
+to the size of the lion and you will have a beast more terrible
+than the world has yet seen. Though nearly blind, and therefore
+incapable of following its prey by sight, it would be active beyond
+conception, springing this way and that way as it goes along, leaping
+with lightness and quickness upon any animal which it meets, rending
+it in pieces in a moment, thrusting its blood-thirsty snout into
+the body of its victim, eating the still warm and bleeding flesh,
+and instantly searching for fresh prey. Such a creature would,
+without the least hesitation, devour a serpent twenty feet in length,
+and so terrible would be its voracity that it would eat twenty or
+thirty of such snakes in a day as easily as it devours the same
+number of worms. With one grasp of its teeth and one stroke of
+its claws, it could tear an ox asunder; and if it should happen
+to enter a fold of sheep or enclosure of cattle, it would kill
+them all for the mere lust of slaughter. Let, then, two of such
+animals meet in combat, and how terrific would be the battle! Fear
+is a feeling of which the mole seems to be utterly unconscious,
+and, when fighting with one of its own species, he gives his whole
+energies to the destruction of his opponent without seeming to heed
+the injuries inflicted upon himself. From the foregoing sketch
+the reader will be able to estimate the extraordinary energies of
+this animal, as well as the wonderful instincts with which it is
+endowed.
+
+The fur of the mole is noted for its clean, velvety aspect; and
+that an animal should be able to pass unsoiled through earth of
+all textures is a really remarkable phenomenon. It is partly to
+be explained by the character of the hair, and partly by that of
+the skin. The hair of the mole is peculiar on account of its want
+of "set." The tops of the hairs do not point in any particular
+direction, but may be pressed equally forward or backward or to
+either side. The microscope reveals the cause of this peculiarity.
+The hair is extremely fine at its exit from the skin, and gradually
+increases in thickness until it reaches its full width when it
+again diminishes. This alternation occurs several times in each
+hair, and gives the peculiar velvet-like texture with which we
+are all so familiar. There is scarcely any coloring matter in the
+slender portion of the hair, and the beautiful changeable coppery
+[Page 210]
+hues of the fur is owing to this structure. Another reason for the
+cleanliness of the fur is the strong, though membranous muscle beneath
+the skin. While the mole is engaged in travelling, particularly in
+loose earth, the soil for a time clings to the fur; but at tolerably
+regular intervals the creature gives the skin a sharp and powerful
+shake, which throws off at once the whole of the mould that has
+collected upon the fur. Some amount of dust still remains, for,
+however clean the fur of a mole may seem to be, if the creature
+be placed for an hour in water, a considerable quantity of earth
+will be dissolved away and fall to the bottom of the vessel. The
+improvement in the fur after being well washed with soft tepid
+water and soap, is almost incredible. Many persons have been struck
+with such admiration for the fur of the mole, that they have been
+desirous of having a number of the skins collected and made into a
+waist-coat. This certainly can be done, but the garment thus made
+is so very hot that it can only be worn in winter. Such garments
+are very expensive, and owing to the tender quality of the skin,
+possess but little lasting powers. There is also a wonderfully
+strong smell about the mole; so strong, indeed, that dogs will
+sometimes point at moles instead of game, to the great disgust
+of their masters. This odor adheres obstinately to the skin, and
+even in furs which have been dried for more than ten years, this
+peculiar savor has been noticed.
+
+We have given much space to the mole, not particularly on account
+of its particular usefulness to the trapper, but because of its
+many claims to our notice. If the creature were a rare and costly
+inhabitant of some distant land, how deep would be the interest
+which it would incite. But because it is a creature of our country,
+and to be found in every field, there are but few who care to examine
+a creature so common, or who experience any feelings save those
+of disgust when they see a mole making its way over the ground
+in search of a soft spot in which to burrow.
+
+In many localities this interesting animal exists in such numbers
+as to become a positive nuisance, and the invention of a trap which
+would effectually curtail their depredations has been a problem
+to many a vexed and puzzled farmer.
+
+Mole traps of various kinds have found their way into our agricultural
+papers, but none has proved more effectual than the one we describe
+on page 119. An arrangement of the _figure four_, page 107, is
+also sometimes employed with good success. In this case the bait
+stick crosses the upright stick close to the ground, and rests over
+[Page 211]
+the burrow of the mole, the earth being previously pressed down to
+the surrounding level. The stone should be narrow and very heavy, and
+of course no bait is required.
+
+The pieces should be set carefully, and so adjusted that the lifting
+of the soil beneath the stick as the mole forces its way through
+the compressed earth will dislodge the bait stick and let down
+the stone with its crushing weight.
+
+Another method consists in embedding a deep flower pot in one of
+the main tunnels of the animal, and carefully replacing the soil
+above. The mole in traversing his burrow thus falls into the pit
+and is effectually captured. This is a very ingenious mode of taking
+the animal, and rewarded its inventor with seven moles on the first
+night of trial.
+
+There are a number of other devices said to work excellently, but
+the above we believe to be the most effectual of all.
+
+There are several species of American moles, the star-nosed variety
+being familiar to most of us. The most common moles are the shrew
+moles, with pointed noses. The silver mole is a large species, of
+a changeable silvery color, found on the Western prairies. The
+Oregon mole is nearly black, with purplish or brownish reflections.
+
+The most beautiful of all the moles is found at the Cape of Good
+Hope. It is of about the size of the ordinary American species, and
+its soft fur glistens with brilliant green and golden reflections.
+The fur of this species is probably the most wonderful and beautiful
+in the whole animal kingdom.
+
+
+SQUIRRELS.
+
+There are many species of squirrels found in the United States,
+but their fur is of little value, and of trifling importance in
+the fur trade; the squirrel fur of our markets being that of a
+small grey European variety. Squirrels, as a class, possess much
+the same peculiarities and habits. Their claws are particularly
+adapted for life among the trees; their tails are long and bushy,
+covering over the backs of the animals when in a sitting posture.
+They are all lithe and quick of movement, and their senses of sight
+and hearing are especially keen. They are constantly on the alert,
+and are full of artifice when pursued. Their food consists chiefly
+of nuts, fruits, and grain, but when pushed by hunger, there is
+no telling what they will not eat. They generally provide for the
+[Page 212]
+winter months by laying up a store of the foregoing provisions,
+either in holes in trees or interstices in the bark, or in cavities
+under ground. The shag-bark hickory offers an especial inducement to
+these provident creatures in the numerous crevices and cracks
+throughout the bark. It is not an uncommon thing to find whole
+handfuls of nuts carefully packed away in one of these cracks, and
+a sharp stroke with an ax in the trunk of one of these trees will
+often dislodge numbers of the nuts. The writer has many a time gone
+"nutting" in this way in the middle of winter with good success. The
+nests of squirrels are generally built in trees, either in a crotch
+between the branches or in some deserted woodpecker's hole. Some
+species live in burrows in the ground, and those individuals who
+are lucky enough to be in the neighborhood of a barn often make their
+abode therein, taking their regular three meals a day from the granary.
+In many localities these animals thus become a perfect pest to the
+farmers, and their destruction becomes a matter of urgent necessity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Squirrels, although resembling each other much as regards
+[Page 213]
+their general habits, differ considerably in the size and color
+of the different species.
+
+The principal varieties found on our continent are:--
+
+The large grey squirrel, which is common in the Eastern and Middle
+States, and which is about two feet in length, including the tail.
+The common red squirrel, or chicaree, smaller than the foregoing,
+and found more or less all through the United States. The black
+squirrel, which is about the size of the grey, and found in the
+north-eastern part of the United States, near the great lakes. In
+the Southern States there is a variety known as the fox squirrel,
+about the size of the red squirrel, and quite variable in color.
+The Middle States furnishes a species called the cat squirrel,
+rather smaller than the preceding. Its tail is very broad, and its
+color varies from very light to very dark grey.
+
+The ground squirrel, or chipmuck, with its prettily striped sides,
+is common to most of our readers, its general color being red and
+the stripes being black and white.
+
+Another burrowing species, known as the Oregon or downy squirrel,
+is found in the Territory from which it takes its name, and also
+northward in British America. In size it resembles the chipmuck,
+and its color is light red above, pure white beneath, and silver
+grey at the sides.
+
+The beautiful silky variety, known as the flying squirrel, with
+its grey chinchilla-like fur and loose skin, is found throughout
+the United States east of the Mississippi.
+
+Louisiana and Texas furnish the golden-bellied squirrel, which is
+about twenty inches in length, with tail golden yellow beneath,
+and golden grey above. The sooty squirrel is also found in this
+locality, being about the same size as the last mentioned, and
+black above and brownish red beneath.
+
+There are other varieties in California known as the woolly,
+soft-haired, and weasel squirrels; and in the Western States we
+find the large red-tailed squirrels, which are about the size of
+the large grey variety of the Eastern and Middle States.
+
+Squirrels, as a tribe, are much sought for as pets, and most of
+the species are easily tamed.
+
+Box traps of various kinds are used in taking them alive. The varieties
+on pages 103, 106 and 110 are especially adapted for this purpose,
+and should be set either in the trees or on the ground, and baited
+with an apple, a portion of an ear of corn, or of whatever the
+animal is particularly fond.
+
+When the animals exist in such numbers as to become a destructive
+[Page 214]
+nuisance to the farm, the small-sized steel trap, No. 0, arranged
+with bait hung above it, will work to good advantage. Twitch-ups
+are also successful, and we might also recommend the traps on pages
+107, 116 and 128 as worthy of trial when the animal is not desired
+to be captured alive.
+
+Squirrels may be skinned either by ripping up the belly, or in a
+whole piece, as described in regard to the fox.
+
+We pause before going further into the mysteries of trapping in
+connection with the animals which we are about to consider, as
+they are generally exempt from the wiles of the trapper's art,
+coming more properly in the field of the hunter or sportsman. The
+idea of trapping a deer, for instance, seems barbarous indeed;
+but are not all the ways of deceiving and killing these splendid
+animals equally so? Are not the various strategies and cunning
+devices of the sportsman, by which these noble creatures are decoyed
+and murdered, equally open to the same objection? As far as barbarity
+goes, there is to us but little choice between the two methods;
+and, generally speaking, we decry them both, and most especially
+do not wish to be understood as encouraging the trapping of these
+animals, except where all other means have failed, and in cases
+where their capture becomes in a measure a matter of necessity.
+This is often the case in the experience of professional trappers.
+The life of the trapper during the trapping season is spent almost
+entirely in the wilderness, often many miles from any human habitation;
+and at times he is solely dependent upon his gun or trap for his
+necessary food.
+
+Sometimes in a dry season, when the leaves and twigs crackle under
+foot, the rifle is as good as useless, for it becomes impossible to
+approach a deer within shooting range. And there are other times
+when ammunition is exhausted, and the trapper is thus forced to rely
+only on his traps for his supply of food. In such circumstances,
+the necessities of the trapper are paramount, and the trapping of
+deer, in such straits, as the most desirable food is rather to
+be recommended than condemned. The same remarks also in a measure
+apply to the moose and prong-horn antelope, as well as to several
+other animals hereinafter mentioned, as they are generally considered
+more in the light of the hunter's than the trapper's game.
+
+
+[Page 215]
+THE DEER.
+
+There are upwards of eight varieties of this animal which inhabit
+North America. The common red or Virginian deer is found throughout
+the United States. The stag or Wapiti deer is now chiefly confined
+to the country west of the Mississippi and northward to British
+America. The moose we shall speak of hereafter. The Rocky Mountain
+mule deer, and the long-tailed deer of the same locality, are two
+more species, and there are also the black-tailed deer and the
+reindeer, the latter of which is a native of British America. The
+scope of our volume will not of course admit of detailed directions
+for trapping each variety, but, as the habits of all the species are
+in a measure similar, our remarks will apply to them in general,
+and particularly to the red or Virginian deer, which is the most
+important to American trappers.
+
+The trap for taking deer should be large, strong, and covered with
+spikes. The Newhouse (No. 4) is particularly adapted, and is especially
+arranged for this purpose.
+
+When the path of the deer is discovered on the border of a stream
+or lake, the trap should be set beneath the surface of the water,
+near the tracks of the animal, and covered by a handful of dried
+grass thrown upon it. When thus set, it may either be left to run
+its chances, or success, further insured by the following precaution:
+In winter the principal food of the deer consists of the twigs,
+buds, and bark of various forest trees, and particularly those
+of the basswood and maple. In the season when the traps are set
+as above described, a most tempting bait is furnished by a large
+branch of either of those trees, freshly cut, and laid near the
+trap. The deer in feeding are thus almost sure to be captured.
+There are certain glands which are located on the inner side of the
+hind legs of the deer, and which emit a very strong and peculiar
+odor. The scent of these glands seems to attract the animal, and
+for this reason are cut out and used by trappers as a scent-bait.
+In the case already described, it is well to rub the glands on
+the twigs of the trees, thus serving as an additional attraction
+to the bait. There is still another method of trapping deer, which
+is commonly employed in the winter time. The trap is sunk in the
+snow at the foot of a tree, and the bait, consisting of an ear
+of corn or a few beards of other grain, is fastened to the tree,
+above the trap, three or more feet from the ground. The animal, in
+reaching for the bait, places its foot in the trap and is secured.
+
+[Page 216]
+When first caught, the deer becomes very wild and violent; so much
+so that if the trap were chained or retarded by a heavy clog, the
+chain, or even the trap itself, would most likely be broken. The
+weight of a trap of this size is generally a sufficient impediment,
+no clog, or at best a very light one, being required. The first
+frantic plunge being over, the entrapped creature immediately yields
+and lies down upon the ground, and is always to be found within
+a few rods of where the trap was first sprung upon him. During
+the winter the traps may also be set in the snow, using the same
+bait already described. It is a common method to fell a small tree
+for the purpose, setting the traps beneath the snow, around the
+top branches. The deer, in browsing in the tender twigs or buds,
+are almost certain to be captured. Dead-falls of different kinds
+are sometimes used in trapping the deer, with good success; using
+the scent bait already described, together with the other bait.
+The food of the deer during the summer consists of nuts, fruits,
+acorns, grass, berries, and water plants, and when in convenient
+neighborhood of cultivated lands, they do not hesitate to make
+a meal from the farmer's turnips, cabbages, and grain.
+
+As we have said, the winter food consists chiefly of the twigs of
+trees. When the snow is deep the deer form what are called "yards,"
+about such trees as they particularly select for their browsing.
+These yards are made simply by tramping down the snow, and large
+numbers of the deer are often thus found together. As the supply
+of food is consumed, the yard is enlarged, so as to enclose other
+trees for browsing, and where deep snows abound throughout the
+winter, these enclosures often become quite extensive in area.
+Panthers, wolves, and wolverines take especial advantage of these,
+and easily secure their victims. By wolves especially entire herds
+of deer are thus destroyed, and whole yards depopulated in a single
+night. Panthers secrete themselves in the trees above the boughs
+overhanging the "yards," and, with stealthy movements, approach and
+pounce upon their unsuspecting prey. The blood-thirsty wolverine
+secretes himself in the nooks and by-ways to spring upon its tawny
+victim unawares. These, together with man, form the principal foes
+of the deer, and we can truthfully assert that the _hunter_ is
+much more its enemy than the _trapper_.
+
+As we do not wish to encourage the wanton trapping of this noble
+creature, it would perhaps be well for us to devote also few words
+in describing the various modes of hunting the animal,
+[Page 217]
+adopted by the "professional sportsmen" throughout the land. The
+most common method is that called "still hunting," most generally
+pursued in winter. The hunter is shod with deer-skin or other soft
+sandals, and starts out with his rifle and ammunition. Finding the
+fresh track of the deer, he cautiously and noiselessly follows up
+the trail, keeping a sharp lookout ahead. A practised deer-hunter
+becomes very skillful and accurate, and the animal is nearly always
+tracked to discovery, when he is shot. The deer's sense of smell is
+extremely acute, and, when in shooting range, it is very necessary
+to approach them in the face of the wind, the direction of which
+may be easily determined by holding the finger in the mouth for a
+moment, afterward pointing it upward toward the sky. The cool side
+of the finger will indicate the direction from which the wind blows,
+and toward that direction the deer should always be approached, or
+as far toward that direction as possible. It will sometimes happen
+that the hunter will surprise the buck, doe, and fawn together. In
+order to secure the three, shoot the doe first. The buck and fawn
+will remain near the spot. The buck should next be shot, and then
+the fawn, the charge being aimed at the breast. Never approach a
+wounded deer without reloading the gun, as he is often more frightened
+than hurt, and is likely to start and run away, unless prevented
+by another shot. During the snow season, deer are always watchful
+of their back track. They are generally at rest during the day,
+starting out late in the afternoon on their usual ramblings, which
+they continue through the night. During the dark hours they love
+to resort to the water side in quest of aquatic plants, and are
+here often taken by hunters, many of which consider "night hunting"
+the favorite and most exciting sport. It is pursued in the following
+manner: The hunter requires a boat or canoe, page 261, a good rifle,
+and a lamp. The lamp, with a screen or reflector behind it, is
+placed at the bow of the boat. One hunter takes the oar, and, with
+noiseless paddle, propels or sculls the boat from the stem. The
+armed hunter crouches behind the light, with the muzzle of his
+rifle projecting beyond the screen sufficiently to easily show the
+forward sight on the tip of the barrel. A dark lantern is sometimes
+used as a light. The eyes of the deer shine very perceptibly at
+night, and his presence on the banks is thus easily detected. If
+he is noiselessly approached, he will remain transfixed by the
+effect of the light from the boat, and he may be neared even to a
+very close range, when he is easily despatched. Hundreds of deer
+[Page 218]
+are thus taken during the summer and autumn. Deer are also chased
+by dogs until they are forced to take refuge in the nearest rivers
+or lakes, when the hunter in his canoe overtakes and shoots them.
+Another method is frequently employed in the hunting of the deer.
+These animals are very fond of salt, and with it they are often
+decoyed to a spot where the hunter lies in wait for them. These
+places are called "deer licks," or salting places, and can be made
+as follows: Select a locality where deer are known to frequent, and
+place a handful of salt either on a smooth spot of ground or in
+the hollow of a log. A section of a log is sometimes slightly dug
+out at one end and the other inserted in the earth, the salt being
+placed in the hollow. The hunter secretes himself in a neighboring
+tree, sometimes erecting a bench or scaffolding for comfort, and,
+provided with gun and ammunition, he awaits the coming of the deer.
+Hunters say that a deer seldom looks higher than his head, and
+that a sportsman on one of these scaffoldings, even though he is
+clumsy in his movements, is seldom noticed by the animal.
+
+The salt lick is also utilized for night hunting. A head-lantern
+is generally required. This can be made in the following manner:
+Construct a cylinder of birch bark or paste-board or any like substance,
+ten inches in height, and of sufficient size to fit closely on
+the head. A circular partition should next be firmly inserted at
+about the middle of the cylinder, and the centre of the partition
+should be provided with a socket for the reception of a candle.
+On this end of the cylinder a piece should now be cut to admit
+of the passage of light from the candle on that side. Having this
+fire-hat at hand wait patiently for the game. When a significant
+noise is heard light the candle and place the cylinder on the head,
+with the open cut in front, thus directing the light toward the
+ground. As the deer approaches, his fiery eyes will easily be seen,
+and the light from the candle will shine sufficiently on the rifle
+to clearly reveal the sights and admit of a sure aim. There is
+still another method of night hunting by the salt lick. The rifle
+is aimed directly at the salted spot, and thus firmly fixed--this
+preparation being made in the daytime. When night approaches, the
+hunter finds a piece of phosphorescent wood or "fox fire," and places
+it on the ground, at a point which he has previously determined
+to be on a direct line of the aim of his gun. The "fox fire" is
+plainly seen from the tree, and as soon as it is darkened he knows
+that it is obscured by the deer, and he pulls the trigger and kills
+his game.
+
+Deer are hunted at all seasons of the year, _but ought not_ to
+[Page 219]
+be hunted during the summer. The sport legitimately begins in September,
+when the buck begins to harden his horns, and when his flesh is
+in its best condition for food. In October the deer is more shy,
+and during this month and after, the sport is at its height. The
+deer should be skinned from an incision down the belly, and the
+hide spread on a hoop stretcher, page 275.
+
+
+THE MOOSE.
+
+We have already given so much space to the hunting of the deer
+that we shall be obliged to cut short our remarks on the Moose,
+particularly as it is a representative of the same family. This
+animal is the largest of the Deer tribe, being seven or eight feet
+in height and often weighing over fifteen hundred pounds. It is
+supplied with immense flat spreading horns, sometimes expanding to
+the distance of six feet between the tips. It is found in Maine,
+Oregon and Washington Territories, and in the neighborhood of the
+great lakes, and inhabits the regions as far
+[Page 220]
+north as the Arctic Sea. Its color is yellowish brown. The fur is
+thicker in winter than summer, and on the neck of the animal the
+hair is very coarse and hangs in an immense tuft of over a foot
+in length. The flesh is most excellent food and is much esteemed
+by trappers. The habits of the moose are in most respects identical
+with the deer, already described, and like them they form "yards"
+during the winter season.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In the North the moose is hunted on snow-shoes by the natives,
+and in summer they are shot like the deer. They are often very
+dangerous and terrible creatures to hunt, and the utmost care and
+skill, as described in regard to the deer, is required on the part
+of the hunter in order to avoid detection through the exquisite
+sense of smell which the animal possesses. The moose is easily
+trapped. The Newhouse, No. 6, is especially adapted for the purpose,
+and it should be chained to a clog of stone or wood of over fifty
+pounds in weight. Set the trap in the "yard," or beneath the snow
+where the moose frequents, or in the summer, or fall seasons, as
+described for the deer, using the same methods in regard to baiting,
+etc.
+
+Skin after the manner of cattle, and stretch the hide on a
+hoop-spreader. Page 275.
+
+
+ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.
+
+These creatures are natives of the entire range of the Rocky Mountains,
+and are especially prized on account of the superior quality of
+their flesh as food. They are much larger and more powerful than
+the domestic sheep, and the ram is provided with enormous curved
+horns. The wool of the animal is intermixed with coarse grey hairs,
+and the general appearance of the fur is russet grey, with the
+exception of the rump and under parts, which are of a dirty white
+color. The animal is generally very wary and retiring, and inhabits
+the most secluded and inaccessible mountain regions and rocky cliffs.
+
+They are easily captured by the steel trap (No. 5) set in their
+haunts. The dead-fall is also used in some instances. Remove the
+skin as described for the deer.
+
+
+THE BUFFALO.
+
+The Buffaloes or Bison of the Western plains is too well known
+to need description. They travel in migrating herds of thousands,
+and are found from Texas to British America. Their food
+[Page 221]
+consists chiefly of grass, of which the "Buffalo grass" is their
+great delight. They graze and travel through the day and rest by
+night. They are more the game of the hunter than the trapper, although
+the largest side Newhouse would effectually secure one of the animals.
+The Buffalo is generally hunted on horseback, the usual method
+being that of stealing into the drove while grazing, always moving
+against the wind in order to avoid being scented. The flesh is
+palatable and by many much relished. The Buffalo skins of commerce
+are furnished by the cows. The bull skins are almost devoid of fur
+on the hinder parts, the hair being confined to the huge heavy
+mass on the hump and mane. Skin the animal as described for the
+Moose.
+
+
+THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE.
+
+This sole American representative of the Antelope tribe we believe
+is seldom trapped; but as it is a well-known animal on the Western
+plains, a short mention of it is required here. In general shape
+this creature bears considerable resemblance to the deer, the form of
+the horn being its chief peculiarity, each one of which is provided
+with a single prong, from which the animal takes its name, of Prong
+Horn. The color of the body is brownish-yellow, with the exception
+of the rump and belly which are almost white. The Antelopes generally
+travel in herds, and are much hunted by the Indians who surround
+them and destroy them with heavy clubs. Like the deer, their sense
+of smell is especially keen and the same caution is required in
+hunting them. In size they are about the same as the Virginian
+Deer. They are wonderfully graceful in all their movements, and
+are even more fleet of foot than the deer. These Antelopes inhabit
+the Western Prairies and wooded borders from New Mexico northward,
+and their flesh is much esteemed as an article of diet. They may
+be caught in their feeding places, as recommended for the deer,
+using the same sized trap.
+
+The dead fall is also efficacious in their capture, and they are
+also sometimes taken in large pit-falls covered over with light
+sticks and leaves, to resemble the natural surroundings. On this
+false covering, the bait, consisting of green corn or other vegetables,
+is strewn and a high wall of logs or stones is erected around it,
+in order that the animal will be obliged to _jump_ slightly in
+order to reach the bait.
+
+Remove the hide as recommended for the deer.
+
+
+[Page 222]
+SHOOTING AND POISONING.
+
+Until the introduction of the steel-trap, shooting was a common
+method of taking fur bearing animals, and even to the present day
+it is quite prevalent in some localities. Anyone who has had any
+experience with the fur trade must have learned that furs which
+are "shot," are much affected in value. Some furriers will not
+purchase such skins at any price; and they never meet with any
+but a very low offer. "Trapped furs" and "shot furs" are terms of
+considerable significance in the fur trade, and anyone who wishes
+to realize from a profitable sale of his furs, should use his gun
+as little as possible. A shot grazing through the fur of an animal
+cuts the hairs as if with a knife, and a single such furrow is
+often enough to spoil a skin. It is these oblique grazing shots
+which particularly damage the fur, and an animal killed with a
+_shot gun_ is seldom worth skinning for the value of its pelt. If
+firearms are used, the rifle is preferable. If the animal chances
+to be hit broadside or by a direct penetrating bullet, the two
+small holes thus made may not particularly effect the value of its
+skin, although even then the chances are rather slight.
+
+Trapped furs are of the greatest value.
+
+The use of poison is objectionable as a means of capture in animals
+especially desired for their fur. Strychnine is the substance generally
+employed, and unless its victim is skinned _immediately_ after
+death the pelt becomes considerably injured by the absorption of
+the poison. It has the effect of loosening the fur and the hair
+sheds easily.
+
+The poison is principally used in the capture of Wolves and animals
+considered in the light of vermin. For a wolf or fox, the poison
+is mixed with lard or tallow and spread on pieces of meat, or a
+small amount of the powder is inclosed in an incision in the bait.
+The amount sufficient for a single dose may be easily held on the
+point of a knife blade, and death ensues in a a very few moments
+after the bait is taken. For a Bear the dose should be a half
+thimbleful, and it should be deposited in the centre of a piece
+of honey comb, the cells being emptied of their honey for that
+purpose.
+
+Other animals may be taken by proportionate quantities of the poison,
+but for general purposes we discourage its use.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 223]
+[Illustration: THE CAMPAIGN.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 225]
+BOOK VII.
+
+CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS.
+
+[Illustration: I]t has been the author's object in the preparation
+of this book not simply to content the reader with a mere superficial
+knowledge of so-called "Amateur trapping," but to carry him further
+into the art professionally considered, and for this reason we
+present in the following chapter a full catalogue of the trapper's
+outfit, containing detailed descriptions of all the necessaries for
+a most thorough campaign, including boats and canoes, log cabins,
+shanties and tents, snow shoes and camp furniture of all kinds,
+together with numerous and valuable hints on trapper's food.
+
+
+PLAN OF CAMPAIGN.
+
+The first thing to be considered in reference to a campaign is
+the selection of a trapping ground, and it is always desirable
+to choose a locality where travel by water can be resorted to as
+much as possible. Otter, mink, beaver and muskrat are among the
+most desirable game for the trapper, and as these are all amphibious
+animals, a watered district is therefore the best on all accounts.
+Lakes, ponds, and streams, bordered by wild woods, form the best
+possible grounds for general trapping, and the mountain lakes of the
+Adirondacks and Alleghenies, and all similar regions are especially
+desirable on this account. Almost any wild country, intersected
+with streams, lakes, and rivers, is apt to abound with game, and
+some trappers confine their labors to the borders of a single lake,
+and adjoining forest. This plan is especially to be recommended to
+the amateur, as much of the travelling to and fro can be done by boat,
+[Page 226]
+the labor being thus much lightened. Having decided upon the seat
+of operations, the young trappers should immediately set to work
+at building their shanties and boats. The home shanty is of the
+greatest importance, and should be constructed first. Select some
+flat bit of land near the water and clear it of brush wood, or
+other rubbish and proceed to work as described on page 242. A good
+axe is the only tool required by an experienced trapper in the
+construction of such a shanty. Should the trapping lines be very
+extensive, additional _bark_ shanties, page 245, will require to
+be made at intervals along the line, for sleeping stations and
+shelters in case of storm. The professional trapper generally attends
+to the building of his shanties and boats before the trapping season
+commences, and thus has everything in readiness for his campaign.
+If in a birch bark country the Indian canoe, page 260, is the most
+desirable craft, on account of its lightness and portability. The
+dug-out, or bateau, described on page 259, will also do good service.
+
+The trapping season begins in October, and everything should be
+in readiness at this time, so that the trappers may devote all
+their time strictly to business.
+
+The route of the professional trapper often extends over fifty
+miles, and the number and weight of traps and provisions which
+these rough-and-ready individuals often carry as personal luggage
+is most astounding. Fifty or sixty pounds apiece is considered a
+_fair_ burden, and they deem no one a fit physical subject for a
+campaign who cannot at least manage thirty pounds with comparative
+ease. The number of the trapping party generally consists of from
+two to four. A few days prior to the opening of the trapping season,
+the party start out, laden with their burden of traps and provisions,
+and deposit them at intervals along the line, the provisions being
+mainly kept in the "home shanty." Several trips may be necessary to
+complete these preparations, unless the trapping ground is readily
+accessible by wagon or boat, in which case the transportation is
+much easier.
+
+The "home shanty" is generally built only when the trapping grounds
+are far in the wilderness, miles away from civilization. If the
+line extends from the outskirts of some town or village, such a
+hut may be dispensed with. It is used principally as a storehouse
+for furs, provisions, ammunition, tools, and other valuables, and
+also serves as a point of rendezvous, or a home, for the trappers,
+one of the number being generally left in charge to "keep shanty"
+while his companions are on their tramps in search of game. If
+desired, a boy may be taken
+[Page 227]
+along for this especial purpose. In every case, some such guardian
+is very necessary, and particularly in wild districts, abounding in
+wolves and bears, as these animals have an odd trick of breaking
+into unguarded shanties, and often make sad havoc with its stores.
+Steel traps are almost exclusively used by the professional trapper,
+and the supply for a single campaign will often exceed one hundred
+and fifty. Many of the traps described in the early part of this
+work are also used, and for the amateur who has not the ready cash
+to layout in steel traps, are decidedly to be recommended and will
+be found very efficient. From thirty to fifty traps would be a fair
+number for an ordinary amateur trapping season, and the probable
+cost of such a lot would be from $15 to $25. The sizes of the traps
+will depend upon the game sought, No. 2-1/2 being a good average.
+With this supply, relying somewhat on dead-falls, twitch-ups, and
+the various other devices described in our early pages, we can
+guarantee lively sport, of course, presuming that good judgment has
+been used in the selection of a trapping ground. In later articles,
+under the proper headings, we give full details concerning food
+and cooking utensils, shelter and bedding, as well as many other
+requisites for the trapper's comfort. To complete the list he should
+provide himself with a good sharp axe, and hatchet, and if the
+log canoe is in anticipation he will also require the other tools
+mentioned on page 259 an oilstone being carried in order to keep the
+various tools in good repair; an auger, saw, and some large nails are
+also to be desired, and a small parcel containing needles, thread,
+pins, scissors, etc., will be found indispensable. "Cleanliness is
+next to Godliness," and there are no more luxurious necessities
+in camp life than a piece of soap and a clean towel. For light it
+is advisable to carry a supply of candles, or a lantern with a can
+of oil. The latter is, of course, more bulky, and for a campaign
+wholly on foot is hardly to be recommended on this account.
+
+Each trapper should be provided with a stout jack-knife, pocket-compass,
+and a supply of matches, a number of these being always carried on
+the person to provide for the emergencies to which the hunter is
+always subject.
+
+One of the party should carry a double-barrelled shot-gun and another
+a rifle, or both may be combined in a single weapon. A revolver
+is also a desirable acquisition. Purified neats-foot oil should
+be used on the fire-arms, and in lieu of this, some trappers use
+the melted fat of the grouse for the same purpose. A good supply
+of fishing tackle is almost indispensable, and
+[Page 228]
+with these valuable equipments the young trapper may defy the wilderness
+with all its hazards. With his traps, gun and rod, together with his
+store of provisions, he may look forward to a larder well stocked
+and may calculate on an appetite which will do it justice.
+
+The list of portable provisions and cooking utensils best adapted
+for a campaign are given under their proper title, and will be
+found to cover all the wants of the most fastidious. The stove
+is the most cumbersome article, but trappers generally dispense
+with its use altogether, looking at it rather in the light of a
+luxury as well as a nuisance. The open camp fire will answer every
+purpose, both for cooking and for comfort in cold weather.
+
+For clothing it is desirable to carry at least two suits, in order
+to have a "change." They should be of woolen, and from the _hunter's_
+point of view, should be of a sombre shade, so as to be as inconspicuous
+as possible. The use of high-top boots is to be deprecated, as they
+are tiresome and unwieldy. Short boots, with thick, iron-pegged
+soles, are generally preferred by trappers, and in order to render
+them soft, pliable, and waterproof they may be soaked or smeared
+with a hot mixture, composed of one part rosin, two parts beeswax,
+and three parts tallow. Simple tallow, or even the fat of the deer,
+is sometimes used for the same purpose.
+
+Calculating on a successful campaign, a supply of board-stretchers,
+page 273, will be needed for the curing of the skins, and if our
+adventurous enthusiasts should extend their experience along into
+the winter, the toboggan and snow-shoes will come into good use
+for convenient winter travel.
+
+The trapping season properly commences in October and ends in April.
+The pelts of fur bearing animals are in their best condition during
+this time, and in the winter are in their prime. The various modes
+of setting and baiting traps for all our leading animals are clearly
+set forth in another part of this volume. And in the accompanying
+engravings will be found life like representations of each species.
+
+In a trapping campaign it is an excellent plan to select a central
+point for the home shanty, extending the trapping lines in several
+directions therefrom, following the borders of the lakes or streams
+for the otter, beaver, mink and muskrat; and setting a few lines
+inland for the capture of martens, racoons, foxes, etc.
+
+For an amateur campaign this a most excellent and convenient
+[Page 229]
+arrangement, the lines may extend all the way from one to five miles
+each, and connect at their edges, the whole ground plan resembling the
+form of a wheel, the shanty corresponding to the hub, and the trapping
+lines the spokes, the tire representing the circuit connecting the
+various lines. Where the latter extend over many miles it is well
+to construct bark shanties at the limits. Let each trapper take
+a certain "spoke," and follow it to its terminus, returning on the
+adjacent line. On his arrival at the shanty he should immediately
+set to work skinning the animals taken, and stretching their furs.
+Full directions for skinning the various game are given under their
+respective titles, and the curing of skins is treated in detail
+in another chapter of this work. We also present a table of the
+comparative values of the various American furs at the present
+date of publication. Of course these values are constantly varying,
+but the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values
+of common and scarce furs. Great care should always be used in
+removing the skins from the various animals, as the final value
+of the fur much depends upon this. They should not be removed from
+the stretchers until perfectly dry, and should then be laid in a
+cool, airy place. When near a village or settlement it is advisable
+to send "into town" every few days with a batch of furs for safe
+keeping, and particularly so when the skins are valuable, and in
+cases where the home shanty is left unguarded. The value of prime
+otter or mink pelt is a matter of no small importance, and a good
+trapping ground furnishes a rare field for light fingered prowlers
+who are well posted on the market price of raw furs, and who are
+constantly on the lookout for such prizes, either in the shape
+of the prepared skin, or on the back of the live animal. These
+"trap robbers," or poachers, are the pests of trappers, and many
+have learned from dear experience the advisability of placing their
+choice furs beyond the reach of the marauders.
+
+The hut in which they are stored is nearly always kept guarded,
+and, where this is impracticable, the skins are hid in hollow trees,
+or carried to some near settlement, as we have already mentioned.
+
+If the campaign proves successful and promises well for another
+season, it is customary to hide the traps beneath rocks, thus saving
+the labor of a second transportation. In order to keep the traps
+from rusting, it is well to cover them with oat or buckwheat chaff.
+The rock should be first rolled from its resting place, and a bed
+of the chaff made beneath it, in which the traps should be covered,
+the rock being afterwards replaced. In a few such
+[Page 230]
+places all the traps may be effectually stored away, and they will
+be found in prime order and ready for business on the following
+season.
+
+In the months of September and October trappers are much annoyed by
+gnats and mosquitoes, and, as a preventive against the attacks of
+these pests, we give on page 255 some valuable receipts, which have
+stood the test of time, and are still the most effective remedies.
+The "smudge," consisting of a smouldering pile of birch bark is
+also used where the insects infest the tents or shanties by night.
+The bark should be dry, and should not be allowed to blaze. The
+smudge is generally placed at the entrance of the tent, and the
+trapper may then take his choice between smoke or mosquitoes, both
+cannot exist together, and a tent infested with the blood-thirsty
+pests may be effectually cleared in a few minutes by the introduction
+of smoking brand for a few seconds. If the tent is now closely
+buttoned and the smudge kept burning directly outside, there will
+be no further trouble with the mosquitoes, and the odor of the
+smoke is, after all, but a slight annoyance and to some is even
+enjoyable after being once accustomed to it. When the home shanty
+is infested, it may be cleared in the same way, and by the aid of
+two or more smudges on the windward side may be kept free from
+the insects.
+
+
+FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS.
+
+The professional trapper on a campaign depends much upon his traps
+for his food, and often entirely contents himself with the subsistence
+thus gained. We _encourage_ and _believe_ in "roughing it" to a
+certain extent, but not to that limit to which it is often carried
+by many professional "followers of the trap" throughout our country.
+The course of diet to which these individuals subject themselves,
+would often do better credit to a half civilized barbarian than
+to an enlightened white man, and when it comes to starting on a
+campaign with no provision for food excepting a few traps, a gun, and
+a box of matches, and relying on a chance chip for a frying-pan, he
+would rather be "counted out." In ordinary cases we see no necessity
+for such deprivation, and, on the other hand, we decry the idea of
+transporting a whole kitchen and larder into the woods. There is
+a happy medium between the two extremes, whereby a light amount
+of luggage in the shape of cooking utensils and closely packed
+portable food, may render the wild life of the trapper very cozy
+and comfortable, and his meals a source of enjoyment, instead of a
+[Page 231]
+fulfilment of physical duty. What with the stock of traps, necessary
+tools, blankets, etc., the trapper's burden is bound to be pretty
+heavy, and it becomes necessary to select such food for transportation
+as shall combine the greatest amount of nutriment and the least possible
+weight, and to confine the utensils to those absolutely necessary
+for decent cooking.
+
+The trapper's culinary outfit may then be reduced to the following
+items, and in them he will find a sufficiency for very passable
+living.
+
+One of the most nutritious and desirable articles of food consists
+of fine sifted Indian meal; and it is the only substantial article
+of diet which many trappers will deign to carry at all.
+
+By some it is mixed with twice its quantity of wheat flour, and
+is thus used in the preparation of quite a variety of palatable
+dishes. One or two pounds of salt pork will also be found a valuable
+addition; boxes of pepper and salt and soda should also be carried.
+With these simple provisions alone, relying on his gun, traps and
+fishing tackle for animal food, the young trapper may rely on three
+enjoyable meals a day, if he is anything of a cook. Pork fritters
+are not to be despised, even at a hotel table; and with the above
+they can be made to suit the palate of the most fastidious.
+
+Indian meal is a valuable accessory with cooks generally, and to
+the trapper it often becomes his great "staff of life." If our
+young enthusiast desires to try his hand at roughing it to the
+fullest extent, compatible with common sense and the strength of an
+ordinary physical constitution, he may endeavor to content himself
+with the above portable rations; but with anything less it becomes
+too much like starvation to arouse our enthusiasm. For cooking
+utensils, a small frying-pan and a deep tin basin are indispensable;
+and a drinking cup is also to be desired. The kind known as the
+telescope cup, constructed in three parts, which close within each
+other, when not in use, possesses great advantages on account of
+its portability. With these one can get along pretty decently.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The pork fritters already mentioned form a favorite dish with trappers
+generally, and can be made in the following
+[Page 232]
+way; have at hand a thick batter of the Indian meal and flour;
+cut a few slices of the pork, and fry them in the frying-pan until
+the fat is tried out; cut a few more slices of the pork; dip them
+in the batter and drop them in the bubbling fat, seasoning with
+salt and pepper; cook until light brown and eat while hot. The
+question now arises, "What shall we eat them with?" If you are
+"roughing it," such luxuries as plates and knifes and forks are
+surely out of the question; and you must content yourself with
+a pair of chop sticks "a la Chinee," or make your jackknife do
+double purpose, using a flat chip or stone as a plate. A small
+tin plate may be added to the list of utensils if desired, but
+we are now confining ourselves to the "lowest limit" of absolute
+necessities. That wholesome dish known as "boiled mush," may come
+under the above bill of fare; and fried mush is an old stand-by
+to the rough and ready trapper. In the first case the Indian meal
+is slowly boiled for one hour, and then seasoned as eaten. It is
+then allowed to cool, and is cut in slices and fried in fat. Indian
+meal cakes are easily made by dropping a quantity of the hot mush
+in the frying-pan, having previously stirred in a small quantity
+of soda, and turning it as soon as the lower side is browned. A
+Johnny cake thus made is always appetizing, and with the addition
+of a little sugar, it becomes a positive luxury. Hoe cakes, so
+much relished by many, can be made by mixing up a quantity into
+a thick mass, adding a little soda. Bake in the fire on a chip or
+flat stone. The trapper's ground is generally in the neighborhood
+of lakes or streams, and fresh fish are always to be had. They
+may be cooked in a manner which would tempt a city epicure; and
+when it comes to the cooking of a fresh brook trout, neither a
+Prof. Blot nor a Delmonico can compete with the trapper's recipe.
+The trout is first emptied and cleaned through a hole at the neck,
+if the fish is large enough to admit of it; if not, it should be
+done by a slit up the belly. The interior should be carefully washed
+and seasoned with salt and pepper; and in the case of a large fish,
+it should be stuffed with Indian meal. Build a good fire and allow
+the wood to burn down to embers; lay the fish in the hot ashes
+and cover it with the burning coals and embers; leave it thus for
+about half an hour, more or less, in proportion to the size of the
+fish (this may be easily determined by experiment); when done,
+remove it carefully from the ashes, and peel off the skin. The
+clean pink flesh and delicious savor which now manifest themselves
+will create an appetite where none before existed. All the delicate
+[Page 233]
+flavor and sweet juices of the fish are thus retained, and the trout
+as food is then known in its perfection.
+
+By the ordinary method of cooking, the trout loses much of its
+original flavor by the evaporation of its juices; and although
+a delicious morsel in any event, it is never fully appreciated
+excepting after being roasted in the ashes, as above described.
+
+The other method consists in rolling the fish in the Indian meal
+and frying it in the frying-pan with a piece of the salt pork.
+Seasoning as desired.
+
+Partridges, ducks, quail, and other wild fowl are most delicious
+when cooked in the ashes as described for the trout. The bird should
+be drawn in the ordinary manner, and the inside washed perfectly
+clean. It should then be embedded in the hot coals and ashes, the
+feathers having been previously saturated with water. When done,
+the skin and feathers will easily peel off, and the flesh will
+be found to be wonderfully sweet, tender, and juicy. A stuffing
+of pounded crackers and minced meat of any kind, with plenty of
+seasoning, greatly improves the result, or the Indian meal may be
+used if desired. A fowl thus roasted is a rare delicacy. A partridge,
+squirrel, pigeon, woodcock, or any other game can be broiled as
+well in the woods as at home, using a couple of green-branched
+twigs for a spider or "toaster," and turning occasionally. For
+this purpose the bird should be plucked of its feathers, cleanly
+drawn and washed, and spread out by cutting down the back. Venison,
+moose, or bear meat, can be deliciously roasted in joints of several
+pounds before a good fire, using a green birch branch as a spit,
+and resting it on two logs, situated on opposite sides of the fire.
+The meat can thus be occasionally turned and propped in place by
+a small stick, sprinkling occasionally with salt and pepper. The
+above manner of making the fire is that adopted by most woodsmen.
+Two large green logs, of several feet in length, being first laid
+down at about three feet distant, between these the fire is built,
+and when a kettle is used a heavy pole is so arranged as to project
+and hold it over the fire. A cutlet of venison fried in the pan
+is delicious, and a "Johnny cake" cooked in the fat of this meat
+is a decided dainty.
+
+With the above hints for a "rough and ready" campaign, we think
+the young trapper ought to be able to get along quite comfortably.
+
+We will now pass on to the consideration of what the average
+[Page 234]
+professional trapper would call "luxuries." The stock of these
+depends much upon the location of the trapping ground. If accessible
+by wagon or boat, or both, they may be carried in unlimited quantities,
+but when they are to be borne on the back of the trapper through
+a pathless wilderness of miles, the supply will, of course, have
+to be cut short. When two or three start out together it becomes
+much easier, one carrying the traps and tools; another the guns,
+cooking utensils, etc.; the third confining his luggage to the food.
+One of the most necessary requisites for a journey on foot consists
+in a knapsack or large square basket, which can be easily strapped
+to the back of the shoulders, thus leaving the hands free. Matches
+are absolutely indispensable, and a good supply should be carried.
+They should always be enclosed in a large-mouthed bottle with a
+close fitting cork, to prevent their being damaged by moisture. For
+further safety in this regard the matches may be rendered perfectly
+water-proof by dipping their ends in thin mastic or shellac varnish.
+If not at hand, this varnish can be easily made by dissolving a
+small quantity of either sort of gum in three or four times its
+bulk of alcohol. It is well to dip the whole stick in the solution,
+thereby rendering the entire match impervious to moisture. Lucifer
+matches are the best, and, when thus prepared, they may lay in
+water for hours without any injury. It is a fearful thing to find
+oneself in the wilderness, cold and hungry, and without the means
+of lighting a fire, and to prepare for such an emergency it is
+always advisable to be provided with a pocket sun glass. So long as
+the sun shines a fire is thus always to be had, either by igniting
+a small quantity of powder (which the trapper is always supposed
+to carry) or using powdered "touch wood" or "punk tinder" in its
+place. Fine scrapings from dry wood will easily ignite by the sun
+glass, and by fanning the fire and adding additional fuel it will
+soon burst into flame. In cloudy weather, and in the absence of
+matches, a fire may easily be kindled by sprinkling a small quantity
+of powder on a large flat stone, setting a percussion cap in its
+midst, and covering the whole with dry leaves. A smart strike on
+the cap with a hammer will have the desired result, and by heaping
+additional fuel on the blazing leaves the fire soon reaches large
+proportions. If the young trapper should ever be so unfortunate
+as to find himself in the wild woods, chilled and hungry, minus
+matches, powder, caps, and sun glass, he may as a last resort try
+the following: Scrape some lint or cotton from some portion of
+the garment, or some tinder from a dry stick, and lay it on the
+[Page 235]
+surface of some rough rock, white quartz rock if it can be found.
+Next procure a fragment of the same stone, or a piece of steel from
+some one of the traps, and strike its edge sharply, and with a
+skipping stroke into the further side of the tinder, the direction
+being such as will send the sparks thus produced into the inflammable
+material. Continue this operation until the tinder ignites. By now
+gently fanning the smoking mass it may easily be coaxed into flame.
+At least so our Adirondack guide told us last summer. The author has
+never had occasion to test the merits of the plan for himself, and
+has no special desire of being so placed, as that his life will hang
+upon its success. He presents it therefore as a mere suggestion
+without endorsing its practicability, and would rather prefer matches
+in the long run. The open fire generally serves both for purposes
+of warmth and cooking, but by many, a camp stove is considered a
+great improvement. Stoves of this character, and for this especial
+purpose, are in the market. They are small and portable, with pipe
+and furniture, all of which pack away closely into the interior.
+A fire is easily started in one of these stoves, and, by closing
+the damper, a slow fire may be kept up through the night. The stove
+is generally set up at the entrance of the tent, the pipe passing
+through the top, in a hole near the ridge pole. The furniture consists
+of three pots or kettles, which pack easily into each other, and
+when in the stove still leave ample room for a considerable amount
+of provisions.
+
+The kettles are made of block-tin, and frying-pans also, as these
+are much more light and portable than those made of iron. The lid
+may be used as a plate, and for this purpose the handle consists
+of an iron ring, which will fold flat against the surface when
+inverted. Knives, forks, and spoons are easily stowed away in the
+stove or knapsack, and a coffee-pot should always be carried. There
+is a knife known as the combination camp-knife, which is much used
+by hunters and trappers, and contains a spoon, fork, knife, and
+various other useful appendages, in a most compact form. It costs
+from one to two dollars.
+
+For provisions, potatoes will be found excellent, both on account
+of their portability and the variety of ways in which they may be
+served. They are healthy and nutritions, and always palatable.
+Beans are also very desirable for the same reasons. Wheat flour will
+form a valuable addition to the trapper's larder, and particularly
+so, if the "self-raising" kind can be had. This
+[Page 236]
+flour contains all the required ingredients for light bread and
+biscuit, and is sold by grocers generally, in packages of various
+sizes, with accompanying recipes. We strongly recommend it where
+a stove is employed; and to anyone who is fond of biscuit, bread,
+or pancakes, it will be appreciated. Butter, lard, sugar, salt,
+pepper and mustard are valuable accessories, and curry-powder,
+olive oil, and vinegar will often be found useful. Olive oil is
+often used by camping parties with the curry powder, and also as
+a substitute for lard in the frying-pan. Pork, Indian meal and
+crackers, wheaten grits, rice, and oat-meal are desirable, and
+coffee and tea are great luxuries. For soups, Liebig's extract of
+beef is a most valuable article, and with the addition of other
+ingredients, vegetables or meat, the result is a most delicious and
+nutritious dish. This extract is obtainable at almost any grocer's,
+and full directions and recipes accompany each jar. Canned vegetables
+are much to be desired on account of their portability, and are
+never so delicious as when cooked over a camp fire. Lemonade is
+always a luscious beverage, but never so much so as to a thirsty
+trapper. A few lemons are easily carried and will repay the trouble.
+
+All provisions, such as meal, flour, sugar, salt, crackers, and the
+like, should be enclosed in water-proof canvas bags, and labelled.
+The bags may be rendered water-proof either by painting, (in which
+case no _lead_ or arsenic paints should be used) or by dipping in
+the preparation described on page 247. If these are not used, a
+rubber blanket, page 250, may be substituted, the eatables being
+carefully wrapped therein, when not in use. The butter and lard
+should be put up in air-tight jars, and should be kept in a cool
+place, either on the ground in a shady spot, or in some cool spring.
+
+For a campaign on foot, the knapsack, or shoulder-basket, already
+alluded to on page 234, is an indispensable article. It should
+be quite large and roomy, say fifteen inches in depth and ten by
+twelve inches in its other dimensions. The material should be canvas,
+rubber cloth, or wicker, and, in any case, the opening at the top
+should have a water-proof covering extending well over the sides.
+The straps may consist of old suspender bands, fastened crosswise
+on the broad side of the bag. The capacity of such a knapsack is
+surprising, and the actual weight of luggage seems half reduced
+when thus carried on the shoulders. When three or four trappers
+start together, which is the usual custom, and each is provided
+with such a shoulder basket, the luggage can be thus divided, and
+the load for each individual much lightened.
+
+[Page 237]
+Venison is the trapper's favorite food, and in mild weather it
+sometimes happens that the overplus of meat becomes tainted before
+it can be eaten. To overcome this difficulty the following process
+is resorted to, for the preservation of the meat, and the result
+is the well-known and high-priced "jerked venison" of our markets.
+The flesh is first cut into small, thin strips, all the meat being
+picked off from the bones. The pieces are then placed on the inside
+of the hide of the animal and thoroughly mixed with salt, a pint
+and a half being generally sufficient. The salt being well worked
+in, the fragments should be carefully wrapped in the hide, and
+suffered to remain in this condition for two or three hours. The
+meat is then ready to be dried,--"jerked."
+
+Four forked poles should be first driven into the ground, about
+six feet apart, in the form of a square, the forks being four feet
+above ground. Lay two poles of green wood across the forks on the
+two opposite sides of the square, and cover the space between them
+by other poles laid across them, an inch or two inches apart. On
+to this mammoth gridiron the strips of flesh should now be spread,
+and a steady fire of birch or other clean, fresh wood should be
+kept steadily burning beneath for about twenty-four hours. At the
+end of this time the meat will have reduced much in size and weight.
+The salt will have been thoroughly _dried in_, and the flesh so
+prepared maybe kept for almost any length of time. In its present
+condition it is excellent eating, and it is always at hand for
+frying, and may be cooked in a variety of ways. Moose and bear meat
+may be dried in a similar manner, using a proportionate amount of
+salt. Fish may also be prepared in the same way, for which purpose
+they should be scaled as usual and afterward spread open by cutting
+down the back, the bone being removed. We cordially recommend this
+method of preparing both flesh and fish, and no trapper's "recipe
+book" is complete without it.
+
+In localities where wolves abound, the nocturnal invasions of these
+creatures often render the keeping of fresh meat a very difficult
+task, and in this connection it may be well to give directions
+for the preservation of game desired to be used either as fresh
+meat or for purposes of drying.
+
+The spring-pole is most commonly and successfully used.
+
+Select some stout sapling, bend it down, and cut off a limb several
+feet from the ground. Hang the meat in the crotch thus formed, and
+allow the tree to swing back. By dividing the meat into several
+parts it may thus all be protected. When
+[Page 238]
+a moose or deer is killed at such a time or place, or under such
+circumstances as render its immediate dressing impossible, its
+carcass may be defended against mutilation by another means. Wolves
+are naturally sly and sagacious, and have a wholesome fear of a
+trap. Any unnatural arrangement of logs and stones immediately
+excites their suspicion, and the trapper takes advantage of this
+wary peculiarity to good purpose. Laying his dead game near some
+fallen tree or old log he strews a few branches over the carcass,
+or perhaps rests a log over it. Sometimes he hangs the entrails of
+the animal over the body, on a forked stick, anyone of which devices
+is said to have the desired result. The wolverine is another pest to
+the trapper, and not being so sly as the wolf, never hesitates to
+pounce upon any flesh within its reach. The former method, therefore,
+is always the safest plan for absolute protection against all animals.
+
+The moose and deer are the favorite food of trappers in the country
+where these animals abound, and the trappers of the Far West find
+in the flesh of the Moufflon, or Rocky Mountain sheep, a delicacy
+which they consider superior to the finest venison. The prong-horn
+antelope of the Western plains is another favorite food-animal
+with hunters, and the various "small game," such as squirrels,
+rabbits, woodchucks, etc., are by no means to be despised. The
+author once knew a trapper who was loud in his praises of "skunk
+meat" for food, and many hunters can testify to its agreeable flavor
+when properly dressed and cooked. It is hard, to be sure, to getup
+much enthusiasm over a skunk, dead or alive, but where other food
+is not to be had we would discourage the young trapper from being
+too fastidious.
+
+The buffalo, or bison, is the great resource of the trappers of the
+West. The tongue, tenderloin and brisket are generally preferred,
+but all the meat is eatable. The flesh of the cow is best. It much
+resembles beef, but has a more gamey flavor. In winged game there
+is no food superior to the flesh of the grouse, and the great number
+of the species and wide range of territory which they inhabit render
+them the universal food game of trappers throughout the world. The
+ruffed grouse or partridge, pinnated grouse or prairie hen, spruce
+or Canada grouse, and the cock-of-the-plains or sage cock, are
+familiar American examples of the family, and their near relatives,
+the ptarmigans, afford a valuable source of food to the trappers
+and hunters, as well as general inhabitants of our northern cold
+countries. Here they are known as "snow grouse," and there are
+[Page 239]
+several species. The willow ptarmigan is the most common, and in Rome
+localities exists in almost incredible numbers. Flocks numbering
+several thousand have been frequently seen by travellers in the
+Hudson's Bay territory; and the surface of the snow in a desirable
+feeding ground, is often completely covered by the birds, in quest
+of the willow tops, which form their chief food during the winter
+season. The Indians and natives secure the birds in large numbers,
+by the trap described on page 75, and Hearne, the traveller and
+explorer of the Hudson's Bay region, asserts that he has known over
+three hundred to be thus caught in a single morning, by three persons.
+
+Of water fowl, ducks and geese are especially to be recommended.
+The former are hunted with decoys and boats, and are sometimes
+trapped, as described on pages 94. The species are distinguished
+as sea ducks and river or inland ducks. The latter are considered
+the most desirable for food, being more delicate and less gamey in
+flavor than the salt-water, or fish-eating varieties. The mallard,
+teal, muscovy, widgeon, and wood-chuck are familiar species of the
+inland birds, and the merganser and canvass-back are the two most
+esteemed salt-water varieties. Wild geese are common throughout North
+America, and may be seen either in the early spring or late fall
+migrating in immense numbers. They form a staple article of food
+in many parts of British America, and great numbers are salted down
+for winter supply. They are trapped in large numbers, as described
+on page 75, and are hunted with tame geese as decoys, the hunter
+being secreted behind a screen or covert, and attracting the game
+by imitating their cries.
+
+Fish form an agreeable change to the trapper's diet, and may be
+caught by the hook and line, or by spearing. The latter method
+requires considerable practice and skill, but is very successful.
+The Indians of the North are great experts in the use of the spear,
+and the number of salmon taken by them annually is enormous. The
+spear generally consists of five or six steel prongs an inch apart
+and barbed at the ends. It is mounted on a heavy handle, and when it
+strikes its victim its grip is sure death. The spearing is generally
+performed either at the spawning beds or at the falls.
+
+Salmon trout are generally speared in the night time by boat, the
+spawning ground, generally a gravel bank near the shore, being
+the seat of operations. A fire of pitch pine and birch bark is
+ignited on an elevated "jack" in the bow of the boat, the "jack"
+consisting of an ox-muzzle, or other concave wire contrivance
+[Page 240]
+which will hold the inflammable materials. This is secured to a
+post or crotched stick, as a prop, and the spearman stands near
+the burning mass with his spear in readiness. As his companion in
+the stern of the boat paddles, he keenly watches for his victim,
+and, seeing his opportunity, makes his lunge and lands his prize.
+To become a successful spearman requires much practice and no small
+degree of skill. To retain one's balance, acquire quickness of stroke,
+and withal to regulate the aim so as to allow for the refraction of
+the light in the water, all tend to invest the sport with a degree
+of skill which only experience can master.
+
+Fishing through the ice in winter is a rare sport, and large numbers
+of brook and lake trout are often taken at this season by cutting
+holes through the ice and fishing with hook and line. The baits
+commonly used consist of cow's udder or hog's liver, these being
+especially preferred on account of their toughness. Angle worms
+are also excellent, and any kind of raw meat may be used if other
+bait is not to be had.
+
+It is asserted by some sportsmen that bait scented with assafoetida
+is much more attractive to the fish, and will insure a capture
+which would otherwise be impossible. Sweet cicily and anise are
+also used for the same purpose. When the trout bite lively, fishing
+through the ice is a most exciting sport, and by the aid of "tip-ups"
+a single person may command a great number of lines. The winter
+resort of the brook trout is in water two or three feet deep, over
+sandy beds. The lake trout frequent deeper water.
+
+The holes are made in the ice at intervals of one or two rods, and
+a line set in each hole.
+
+The "tip-up" consists of a narrow strip of lath or shingle, with
+a hole bored through it near the large end. At this end the line
+is attached, and the hook thrown in the water. A branch is now
+inserted through the aperture, and its ends are rested across the
+opening in the ice. No sooner does the fish bite than the long
+end tips straight in the air, and thus betrays its captive. Ten
+or fifteen of these contrivances will often keep one pretty busy,
+and do good service. By some an ordinary cut fish pole, arranged on
+a crotch, is used instead of the tip-ups just described. Pickerel
+fishing through the ice is a favorite winter sport in many localities.
+The line should be about thirty feet in length, and the bait should
+consist of a small, live fish, hooked through the back. A small cork
+float should be attached to the line at such a distance as will keep
+[Page 241]
+the bait above the bottom, and the superfluous line should be laid
+in a loose coil near the hole, the end being attached to a small
+switch or bush, stuck up in the ice near by. The pickerel, on taking
+the bait, should be allowed to play out the whole line before being
+pulled in, as the fish requires this time to fully swallow his
+prey, after which the hook is sure to hold him firmly. Twenty or
+thirty lines may thus be attended at once, the bush or twig acting
+the part of a tip-up, or sentinel.
+
+Pickerel spearing is another successful mode of capture during
+the winter months. A large hole is made in the ice, in about two
+feet of water, and covered by a spacious box or board hut, six or
+seven feet square, and provided with a door. The spearman, concealed
+within, lowers his bait, consisting of an artificial fish with
+silver fins, made especially for the purpose. This he continually
+twirls in the water, and as the pickerel approaches the bait, he
+gradually raises it, until the fish is decoyed nearly to the surface
+of the water, when a quick stroke of the spear secures his victim,
+and the line is again lowered. This is capital sport, and is very
+successful.
+
+There is a very curious device for fishing by night commonly employed
+by some anglers, and sometimes known as the "lantern, or fish trap."
+Many kinds of fish are attracted by a light, but to use a light
+as a bait, submerged beneath the water, certainly seems odd. It
+may be done, however, in the following way: The "fish lantern"
+used for this purpose consists of a bottle containing a solution
+of phosphorus in sweet oil. Procure a piece of the stick phosphorus
+the size of a small cherry, and submerging in a saucer of water,
+proceed to cut it into small pieces. Have in readiness a three-ounce
+white glass bottle half filled with sweet oil. Drop the pieces of
+phosphorus into the oil and cork the bottle tightly. In the space
+of a few hours the phosphorus will have been completely dissolved,
+and the contents of the bottle will present a thick, luminous fluid,
+which in a dark room, will afford considerable light. This is the
+fish lantern. To use it, the cork is firmly inserted and the bottle,
+with fish line attached, is lowered through the hole in the ice.
+The water becomes luminous for several feet around, and the unusual
+brightness attracts the fish in large numbers. They are plainly,
+discernible, and are readily dispatched with the spear, or captured
+by a circular net, sunk on the bottom, beneath the luminous bait.
+This is certainly an odd way of catching fish, but it is often
+a very efficacious method.
+
+It has not been our intention to enter very extensively into
+[Page 242]
+the subject of fishing, but only to give such hints as will be
+found especially useful and practical to the trapper in relation
+to his food. The above methods, together with those of trolling
+and fly-fishing, are those most commonly employed by trappers and
+hunters generally, and we commend them to the amateur.
+
+We give, on page 120, a unique device for the capture of fish, which
+might also be found useful.
+
+With the above general remarks on the campaign, together with what
+follows in the detailed articles on the subject, we think that the
+ground will have been completely covered. Every possible requirement
+has been anticipated, and every ordinary emergency foreseen and
+provided against.
+
+
+THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.
+
+The life of the professional trapper is a life of hardship and
+severe exposure, and a man not only requires considerable courage,
+but also great bodily vigor, in order to combat successfully the
+dangers of such a wild, adventuresome existence.
+
+The cold and the storm not only imperil his life, but he is often
+exposed to the attacks of wild beasts. A shelter, therefore, in one
+form or another, becomes a necessity while it is always a decided
+comfort, in comparison to a campaign without it.
+
+The reader will find below descriptions of the various shelters
+alluded to in other parts of this work, and used by trappers throughout
+the land.
+
+The most substantial of these is the log shanty, commonly known among
+trappers as the "home shanty," on account of its being constructed
+as the only permanent shelter on the trapping line.
+
+It is used as a "home," a place of rendezvous, and a storehouse
+for provisions, furs, and other necessities and valuables. Other
+temporary shelters, known as bark shanties, are also constructed
+along the trapping lines at intervals of five or ten miles, as
+resting places. These we describe under the proper title.
+
+Although, to the amateur trapper, the log shanty is not likely
+to become a necessity, we will nevertheless describe its mode of
+construction, in order to satisfy our more earnest and adventurous
+readers, who aspire to a full taste of wild life.
+
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of such a shanty.
+
+[Page 243]
+[Illustration: THE HOME SHANTY.]
+
+[Page 244]
+It may be constructed of any size, but one of about twelve by ten
+feet will be found large enough for ordinary purposes. Select straight
+logs, about eight inches in diameter. The whole number required
+will be thirty-six. Of these one-half should be twelve feet in
+length and the other ten. These should now be built up in the square
+form, on a level piece of ground, laying the ends of the logs over
+each other, and securing them by notches at the corners, so deep as
+to allow the edges of the logs to meet. Lay two short logs first,
+and continue building until all the thirty-six logs are used, and
+we will now have four symmetrical sides about six feet in height.
+The place for the door should now be selected. The uppermost log
+should form its upper outline, and the two sides should be cleanly
+and straightly cut with a crosscut saw. The window openings, one or
+more, may next be cut, commencing beneath the second log from the
+top, and taking in three beneath it. Replace the logs above, and
+on the ends of those thus cut, both in windows and doors, proceed
+to spike a heavy plank, driving two nails into each log, about
+five inches apart, one above the other. This will hold them firmly
+in place, and offer a close-fitting jam for the door, and neat
+receptacle for the window sashes, which latter may now be put in
+after the ordinary manner.
+
+The gable ends should next be built upon the smaller sides of the
+hut. Commence by laying a long log (notched as before) across the
+top of the frame work, and about two feet inside the edge. This
+should of course be done on both sides of the hut, after which
+they should be overlapped at the corners with logs eight feet in
+length. Next lay two more long logs, parallel with the first two,
+and about a foot inside them, notching as before. The ends of these
+should be spanned with beams eight feet in length. Two more long
+logs are next in order--let them be one foot inside the last two.
+Overlap these with beams five feet and a half in length, and in
+the exact centre of these last pieces chop notches for a heavy
+log for a ridge pole. The gable outline, direct from the ridge
+pole to the eaves, should now be cut off by the aid of a sharp
+axe. This may be done either while the pieces are in position, or
+the line may be marked with a piece of chalk, and the logs taken
+down in order to accomplish it. The roof is now required. This
+should consist either of strips of bark or the rounded sides of
+logs split off and hollowed into troughs. The latter method is
+preferable, on account of its greater strength and durability,
+but the bark will answer the purpose very well, and is much more
+easily obtained. The manner of adjusting the roof pieces is clearly
+[Page 245]
+shown in our illustration. The first row is laid on with the hollow
+side up, securing them at top and bottom by nails driven through each
+into the ridge pole and eaves-log, care being taken that one of these
+pieces projects well over the gable, on both ends of the hut. These
+pieces are now overlapped by the second row, and with the addition
+of the large piece which covers them all at the ridge pole, the
+roof is complete, and will stand a heavy ram with little or no
+leaking. The crevices should now be stopped with moss, dried grass
+or clay, after which the log cabin is complete. When the bark roof
+is made, additional poles may be inserted beneath as props. They
+should be three or four inches in diameter, and run parallel with
+the ridge pole, at intervals on the slope, notches being cut to
+secure them.
+
+Our engraving represents a chimney, which may be constructed if
+desired, but the necessity of this may be done away with by using
+a small camp stove, and making a small opening in the gable end
+of the hut for the passage of the pipe. If it stove should not
+be at hand, and our amateur should decide to "rough it" to the
+full extent, he may build his fire-place and chimney as follows:
+It will be necessary to cut away an opening in the logs at the
+gable end, as was done for the door and windows. This should be
+about three feet square, and the fire place should be built of
+stone and clay, or cement, to fill the opening, and project inside
+the hut.
+
+The chimney may then be built up outside in the same manner,
+sufficiently high to overtop the gables.
+
+Inside the hut overhead will be found abundant room for the hanging
+of the skins, and any number of cross-poles may be rested across
+the beams. There are facilities for the swinging of a hammock,
+if desired, and, in fact, a hut constructed like the foregoing
+is a perfect one in its way. There are other methods of building
+a log cabin, but we will content ourselves with what we consider
+the _best_ way of all, and pass on to the
+
+
+BARK SHANTY.
+
+This is made by first driving into the ground two forked poles
+seven or eight feet in height and stout enough to sustain a ridge
+pole of moderate size. Against this ridge pole other poles should
+be rested at intervals of two feet, and sloping to the angle of
+forty-five degrees. The frame-work thus formed should now be covered
+with bark, commencing at the ground and allowing the edge of each
+piece to overlap the one beneath
+[Page 246]
+after the manner of shingles, in order to shed the rain in case
+of storm. Spruce or birch bark are excellent for this purpose,
+and the pieces may be secured with nails, and kept flat by the
+weight of another series of poles rested against them. The sides
+of the shelter should be treated similarly, the front being usually
+left open to face the fire, which the trapper generally builds a
+few feet distant. In constructing a bark shanty, it is well to
+select some spot protected from the wind, close to the foot of a
+mountain or in the midst of trees, always letting the open side
+face the direction most sheltered.
+
+If desired, the front can be enclosed after the manner of the sides
+and top, but this is not required where the fire is used.
+
+This style of shelter is represented in our page title to this section,
+and certainly looks very comfortable.
+
+
+TENTS.
+
+Shanties like the foregoing are in general use among the old veteran
+trappers of all countries, and even to the amateur there is a charm
+in a shelter constructed from the rude materials of the woods which
+the portable tents do not possess.
+
+Tents, however, are much used both by professionals and amateurs,
+and are indeed valuable acquisitions to the trapper's outfit, and
+where time is valuable, do away with the labor which the construction
+of a hut or shanty involves.
+
+Tents are of several kinds. Those most commonly used by the trapper
+are the house-tent, fly-tent, and half-tent, or shelter-tent.
+
+The first of these is made for prop-poles and a ridge pole, closed
+on one end and buttoning up at the other. The sides are perpendicular
+for two or three feet, before the slope commences, and the stay-ropes
+are fastened to the eaves.
+
+The fly-tent is generally a large, square piece of canvas, with
+ropes extending from opposite sides. This is thrown over a ridge
+pole, or over a rope extending between two trees, and the sides
+are held to the proper slope by tightening and pegging the side
+ropes to the ground. Fly-tents are also made with ends, which can
+be lowered, and the whole tent may be pegged close to the ground.
+
+The shelter-tent, when erected, resembles, in general shape, the
+bark shanty already described. It consists of a strip of canvas,
+having each end cut off to a point. The tent is pitched over three
+slanting poles, and the ends are brought down and securely pegged.
+This is clearly shown in our illustration.
+
+[Page 247]
+[Illustration]
+
+We do not propose giving any extended directions for making tents,
+as they are a staple article of trade, and, as a general thing, can
+be bought for a figure which would render their domestic manufacture
+of little saving or profit. The shelter-tent, however, is so useful
+an affair, and withal so very simple made, that we will give a few
+directions in regard to its manufacture. It should be made from
+stout _cotton drilling_, or very heavy sheeting. Let the piece
+be about thirteen feet in length by six in width. Each end of the
+piece should now be cut to a rectangular point, commencing to cut
+at a distance of three feet from each corner. In order to render
+the cloth waterproof, it should now be dipped in a pail containing
+a solution of equal parts of alum and sugar of lead, a couple of
+handfuls of each, in tepid water. It should be allowed to remain
+several minutes in soak, being dipped and turned occasionally,
+after which it should be spread out to dry. This treatment not
+only renders the cloth impervious to rain, but the alum tends to
+make it fire-proof also. A spark from the fire falling upon a tent
+thus prepared, will often rest upon the cloth until it goes out,
+without doing the slightest damage.
+
+[Page 248]
+The manner of pitching the tent has already been alluded to, and
+is clear from our illustration. The poles should be three or four
+in number, and seven feet in length, inserted in the ground at the
+angle denoted. The two outside poles should be seven feet apart,
+and the intermediate ones equally disposed. The tent piece should
+now be laid over the poles, and the ends brought down and pegged
+to the ground at the apex, and rear corners of each side through
+loops, which should have been previously attached to these parts.
+A tent, thus arranged, affords a safe shelter from the wind or
+a moderate storm, and with a bright fire in front, is warm and
+comfortable.
+
+
+BEDS AND BEDDING.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Many a trapper does away with these commodities, merely rolling
+himself in a blanket and using his arm for a pillow; but we do
+not propose to encourage or recommend any such half-way comfort as
+this, when by a very little labor a portable bed can be prepared
+on which the weary hunter can rest as serenely as if slumbering
+on the congenial softness of a hair mattress. A bed of this kind
+we illustrate, and it can be made in the following manner: Procure
+a large piece of canvas, sacking or other strong, coarse material
+six and a half feet square. If a single piece of this size cannot
+be found, several parts may he sewed together to the required
+dimensions. After which two opposite sides should be firmly stitched
+[Page 249]
+together, thus forming a bottomless bag, if we may be allowed to use
+the expression. Two stout poles seven or eight feet in length and as
+large as the wrist should now be cut. Insert them through the bag,
+allowing the ends to project equally on each side. These ends should
+now be rested on two logs, one placed across each end of the canvas.
+In order to hold the poles in place notches should be cut in the logs
+at such distances as will draw the bag to its full width. The interior
+of the canvas should now be filled with dried grass, leaves, moss
+or spruce boughs, after which the bedstead and bed is complete.
+
+The yielding elasticity of the poles and the softness of the warm
+filling in the bag, give the effect of a spring and straw mattress
+combined, lifting the sleeper above the cold, damp ground, and by
+the addition of a blanket above, insuring warmth on all sides. If
+the logs are not at hand four forked stakes may be used, driving
+them firmly into the ground at such distances as will draw the
+bag to its full width, when the poles are rested upon them. If
+by the weight of the body the forked props should tend to incline
+towards each other this trouble may be easily remedied by inserting
+short poles as braces between them. If desired a bed of this kind
+may be used as a hammock and hung in a tree without much trouble.
+It is only necessary to secure the long poles firmly at their full
+width by a stout brace pole at the ends, letting the latter be
+deeply notched at the tips in order to receive the bed supports.
+The joints should then be tightly bound with stout twine in order
+to prevent slipping, after which the bed may be hung in mid-air
+by ropes at each end, and the tired trapper may swing himself to
+sleep with perfect comfort and safety. For this purpose the ropes
+should be attached at the joints, using a loop of six feet for
+each end. In the centre of this loop a small one should be made
+by doubling the rope and winding twine about it, leaving only a
+small aperture. Through these small loops, by the aid of other
+ropes, the bed is attached to the tree. By using this precaution
+the unpleasant experience of being turned or dumped out of bed
+will be impossible. For bed clothes a woollen blanket should always
+be carried, and if convenient a large bag of thick Canton flannel
+is a most excellent acquisition.
+
+Bags of this sort are in common use among amateur trappers, hunters
+and camping parties, and are very warm and comfortable. They should
+be nearly seven feet in length and of a "loose, easy fit." With
+one of these contrivances it is impossible to "kick the clothes
+off" and the warmth is continual instead
+[Page 250]
+of "intermittent," and even on the bare ground it is said to be
+sufficient protection. Hammocks are also in very general use, but
+we can confidently recommend the suspended bed above described
+as decidedly preferable.
+
+There are various kinds of hammocks in the market, from the light
+fibered silk, weighing only a few ounces, to the large corded variety
+of several pounds weight and capable of holding many persons. They
+are an established article of trade, and as the details of their
+manufacture would be of little practical use to the reader, we
+will leave them without further consideration. They can be had at
+almost any sporting emporium, at comparatively small cost.
+
+
+TENT CARPETING.
+
+We have described a most excellent contrivance for a bedstead and
+recommend its use whenever possible; but when the bed is desired
+to be made on the ground the following method is usually employed,
+by which the whole interior of the tent, hut or shanty is carpeted
+with a soft, even covering of green.
+
+Spruce or hemlock boughs are generally used, and should be from
+the tips of the branches where the wood is not too large. Commence
+at the back part of the shelter, and lay down a row of the boughs
+with the butt of the branch towards the front. Overlap these with
+another nearer row and continue the operation, laying the evergreen
+as evenly as possible until the whole interior is smoothly covered.
+The projecting ends at the front, should now be secured by the
+weight of a medium sized log, or by a pole pegged down firmly at
+intervals. A similar log should now be laid at the back portion
+of the shelter over the tips of the boughs after which the bed
+is complete, and will be found easy and comfortable in proportion
+to the care and skill shown in its construction. A blanket should
+be thrown over the boughs before reclining to rest, as the fresh
+green gives forth considerable dampness.
+
+If possible a rubber blanket should be used for this purpose. These
+consist of thick Canton flannel, coated on one side with Indian
+rubber, and are used with the rubber side down. They are warm and
+comfortable, and a valuable acquisition to the trapper's outfit.
+There is a thinner and cheaper variety, having equal water-proof
+qualities but which does not possess the warmth of the former.
+Either will be found useful.
+
+So much for beds and bedding. If the reader will now turn
+[Page 251]
+his attention to the following section, "The Trapper's Miscellany,"
+he will find much in detail of what has only been alluded to in the
+present chapter, besides other hints of great value in reference
+to a trapping campaign.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 253]
+[Illustration: THE TRAPPERS' MISCELLANY]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 255]
+BOOK VIII.
+
+THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.
+
+[Illustration: O]ur enthusiastic novice, as he starts out into the
+wilderness, should not be unmindful of the swarms of blood-thirsty
+flies, gnats and mosquitoes, which infest the woods in the summer
+and early autumn, and are there lying in wait for him. These often
+become a source of great annoyance to the woodsman, and more often
+a source of positive bodily suffering.
+
+Although trapping is not generally carried on during this season,
+the preparations for the coming campaign, including the building
+of shanties, transporting of traps, etc., are generally made at
+this time, and unless some preventive is used, the persecutions of
+the mosquitoes and other winged vermin, become almost unbearable.
+
+
+INSECT OINTMENTS.
+
+These insects seem to have a special aversion for the scent of
+pennyroyal--an herb growing commonly in sandy localities--and a
+single plant rubbed upon the face and hands will often greatly
+check their attacks.
+
+The oil of pennyroyal is better, however, and an ointment made by
+straining one ounce of the oil into two or three ounces of pure
+melted lard, or mutton tallow, forms an excellent antidote. This
+may be carried in a little box or bottle, in the pocket, and applied
+as occasion requires. Plain mutton tallow is also a most excellent
+ointment for general use, and in the case of bruises or slight
+wounds, will give great relief.
+
+Another preparation in very common use amongst hunters and woodsmen,
+although not quite as agreeable in odor, consists of a mixture of
+common tar and sweet oil, in equal parts. By some this liniment
+is considered superior to the other, inasmuch as it also prevents
+tanning, and is beneficial to the complexion.
+
+[Page 256]
+During the night time, the tent or shanty often becomes swarmed
+with the winged pests, and their nocturnal assaults are proverbial
+for their pertinacity and severity. Their thirst for blood overcomes
+every other instinct, and pennyroyal often ceases to have any effect.
+Our Adirondack guide, in narrating his experience with these insect
+vampires, even says that on a certain night, becoming exasperated at
+their indomitable perseverance, and, getting tired of the monotonous
+occupation of spreading ointment, he arose, lit his candle, and drove
+the creatures out of the tent. He then buttoned up the opening, and
+retired to rest. A storm came up in the night, and so completely
+had his canvas been riddled by the bills of the mosquitoes, that
+the rain poured through his tent as through a sieve.
+
+We have heard of the man who, when pursued by hungry mosquitoes,
+took refuge beneath a large chaldron, and, by the aid of a stone,
+clinched the blood-thirsty bills as they protruded in quest of his
+life-blood, until, by the united efforts of the winged captives,
+the chaldron was lifted and wafted out of sight, as if it were a
+feather.
+
+One story is just as true as the other, and a summer in the Adirondack
+woods will tend to strengthen, rather than diminish, the belief in
+either.
+
+The smoke of smouldering birch bark will effectually drive away
+the mosquitoes from the tents at night. This method is commonly
+known as "the smudge," and is more fully described in another part
+of this work.
+
+The smell of the smoke is often unpleasant at first, but it is always
+preferable to the insect bites.
+
+Mosquitoes are not the only vampires which infest our wooded lands.
+The "punkeys" and "midgets" can outstrip them for voracity and the
+painful character of the wound which they inflict. The "punkey,"
+or "black-fly," as it is called, is a small, black gnat, about the
+size of a garden ant, and the bite of the insect often results
+very seriously. The midget is a minute little creature, and is the
+most everlastingly sticky and exasperating pest in the catalogue
+of human torments. They fly in swarms of thousands, and go for their
+victim "en masse" and the face, hands and neck are soon covered as
+if with "hay seed." They stick where they first light, and commence
+operations immediately. All endeavors to shake them off are fruitless,
+and their combined attacks are soon most painfully realized. Their
+bites produce great redness and swelling, and the itching is most
+intolerable. Happily for the woodsman, the "smudge"
+[Page 257]
+and pennyroyal ointment are effectual preventives against the attacks
+of both midgets and black flies, as well as mosquitoes; and no one
+who values his life or good looks should venture on a woodland
+excursion in the summer months without a supply of this latter
+commodity. In conclusion, we would remark that, to the mosquito
+the blood of the intemperate seems to have a special attraction,
+and anyone who wishes to enjoy comparative freedom from the attacks
+of these pests, should abstain from the use of alcoholic stimulants.
+It is a too prevalent idea among trappers that whiskey and rum are
+necessary adjuncts to a trapping campaign, and many a trapper would
+about as soon think of leaving his traps at home as his whisky bottle.
+This is all a mistake. Anyone who has not sufficient strength of
+constitution to withstand the hardships and exposures of a trapping
+life, without the especial aid of stimulants, should stay at home.
+We are now alluding to the _habitual_ use of such stimulants. It
+is always well to be provided with a flask of whisky or brandy,
+in case of illness, but it should only be resorted to in such an
+event. For a mere chill, we recommend the use of red pepper tea. A
+simple swallow of this drink, (made simply by soaking a red pepper
+in a cup of hot water) will restore warmth much quicker than three
+times the amount of any alcoholic stimulant. It is not our purpose to
+extend into a lengthened temperance lecture, but only to discourage
+the wide-spread idea that _stimulants_ are _necessities_ in the
+life of the trapper. Midgets, musquitoes and punkeys delight over
+a victim with alcohol in his veins, and while to a healthy subject
+the bites are of only brief annoyance, to the intemperate they
+often result in painful, obstinate sores.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In addition to the various ointments used, it is well to be provided
+with a head-net, such as we illustrate. Nets of this kind are specially
+made for sportsmen, and consist of a spiral wire framework, covered
+with mosquito netting, and of such a size to slip easily on the
+head.
+
+[Page 258]
+They are easily made, as our engraving would indicate.
+
+A netting attachment for the hat is also an acquisition, especially
+in open woods, free from overhanging branches or dense thickets.
+Such a netting may be secured to the edge of the hat brim, and
+gathered with an elastic at the lower edge. This elastic will close
+snugly around the neck when in use, and at other times may be drawn
+above the brim and allowed to rest on top of the crown.
+
+The portable hat brim, which we illustrate, is an article of trade
+in common use among sportsmen, and particularly the angler. Our
+engraving (_a_) shows the article separate. It is made of cloth,
+and is kept in its circular shape by a steel spring band at the
+circumference, between the two sides. It may be attached to any
+hat, and will act as a most effectual shelter to the rays of a
+hot sun.
+
+[Illustration: a]
+
+The netting above alluded to may be attached to such a brim, and
+applied to the edge of the hat when desired. This is shown at (_b_),
+which also indicates the manner of adjustment of the brim. Such a
+brim will often do good service, and may be obtained at almost any
+sporting emporium at trifling cost. It is portable in every sense
+of the word, being easily bent and packed away in the pocket.
+
+[Illustration: b]
+
+
+[Page 259]
+BOAT BUILDING.
+
+Where trapping is carried on along the banks of the lakes and rivers,
+a boat of some kind becomes almost a positive necessity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The following examples represent those in most general use. Perhaps
+the most common form of the "rough and ready" order of boats, is
+that called the--
+
+"DUG-OUT," OR LOG CANOE.
+
+It's general appearance is well indicated by the accompanying
+illustration. With the proper tools, one of these canoes is easily
+made. A sharp axe, an adze, a shaving knife, a round edged adze,
+and a small auger, are principally necessary; and a cross-cut saw,
+broad-axe, sledge, and large sized chisel, will also be found useful.
+
+In any case the log should not be much less than two feet in diameter,
+perfectly sound, and free from knots. If this precaution is observed,
+the result will be all the more satisfactory, and the canoe can be
+cut so thin, as to render it a light burden; being easily carried
+on the shoulders.
+
+A pine log is generally chosen for a dug-out, on account of the
+lightness of the wood, and the ease with which it can be worked.
+Butternut, cottonwood and whitewood, are also excellent, and indeed
+almost any sound log of large size will answer the purpose.
+
+For a dug-out of good size, the log should be ten or more feet
+in length. The first thing to be done is to cut a flat surface on
+one side of the log, from end to end. This indicates the bottom
+of the canoe. On the upper side the wood should be hewn away, in
+the curve shown on the upper outline of our illustration.
+
+[Page 260]
+It is well to divide the log by notches into three equal lengths.
+In the centre division, the wood may be cut down to a straight
+line to a depth of about eight inches from the upper surface. The
+gradual curve to the bow and stern of the canoe should start from
+each end of this flat cut, and extend to the upper edge of the log,
+the guiding line being made on the sides of the log by a piece of
+chalk. The adze will come into good use in trimming off the wood on
+these curves. When this upper outline is accomplished, the log may
+be turned bottom side up, and the sides of the extremities rounded
+off. This may be done with an axe and adze, and when performed,
+the bottom curves should be made by chopping away the wood in the
+curves shown in the lower outline of our illustration. This curve
+should also be marked out with chalk, and should commence a little
+nearer the end of the log than the curve on the upper side. Shave
+off the wood to a blunt edge on this curve, at both bow and stern.
+The rough form of the canoe is now obtained, and by the aid of
+the draw-knife, or shaving-knife, it can be neatly and smoothly
+finished.
+
+It is then ready to be "dug-out." The tools most useful for this
+purpose are the adze and axe, and sometimes the sledge and chisel.
+The digging out is of course the most tedious part; but with sharp
+tools it is a comparatively easy matter. When the great bulk of the
+wood is taken out, the interior should be finished with a howel
+or round adze; and the sides may be worked to one inch and a half
+in thickness if desired. The writer once saw one of these canoes
+of most exquisite workmanship, being only one inch in thickness,
+and so light as to be easily lifted with one hand. Of course such
+perfection as this is not necessary for ordinary purposes; although
+where the canoe is expected to be carried any great distance, it
+is well to thin it as much as possible. A gimlet or small auger
+may be used to gauge the thickness of the canoe, using it in the
+following manner: Supposing the required thickness of the wood
+is two inches, proceed to bore the hole from the inside of the
+canoe, and continue until the point of the gimlet or auger barely
+makes its appearance on the outside. Draw out the tool, and if the
+thickness measures more than is required, insert into the hole
+a slender piece of wood exactly two inches in length; push it in
+as far as it will go, and you may safely work until you reach the
+end of it. By this method the thickness may be gauged in different
+parts of the boat sufficiently to acquire a fair average thickness,
+[Page 261]
+and there is no danger of cutting through. The gimlet should be
+allowed to extend outside of the canoe only sufficiently to be
+detected, and the holes thus made will seldom give any trouble as
+leaks. If, however, this should be the case, a little putty or pitch
+will remedy the difficulty.
+
+The "dug-out" may be constructed of any size, and of any desired
+shape, but the above is the usual type.
+
+When leaks or cracks occur, they may be caulked with hemp, and
+smeared with pitch, which will render them thoroughly waterproof.
+
+For lightness and portability there is no boat more desirable or
+more unique than--
+
+
+THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE.
+
+Where the white birch grows in perfection, and the trees attain
+a large size, the chief material of the birch bark canoe is at
+hand; and although we ordinary mortals could not be expected to
+attain to that perfection of skill which the Indians exhibit in
+the manufacture of these canoes, we nevertheless can succeed
+sufficiently well to answer all practical purposes. The Indian
+canoes are often perfect marvels of skill and combined strength and
+lightness. These half-civilized beings seem to take as naturally to
+the making of these commodities, as if it were almost an hereditary
+habit with them; and few men, even with the most exhaustive practice,
+can compete with the Indian in the combined result of strength,
+lightness, durability, external beauty, and nicety of work, which
+are the united characteristics of the typical bark canoe.
+
+The average length of the "Bark," as used by trappers, is about
+twelve feet, but they may be constructed of any desired dimensions,
+to the length of forty feet. A canoe of this size will carry fifteen
+or twenty persons, and may be transported with ease upon the shoulders
+of two strong men. The smaller size, above mentioned, is capable
+of carrying two persons, and is a light load for a single man.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In constructing the bark canoe the first requisite is the gunwale,
+or upper framework. This should consist of four strips of cedar,
+ash, or other light, strong wood; two for each side of the boat.
+For an ordinary sized canoe, their length should be about twelve
+feet, width one inch, and thickness one-quarter of an inch. They
+should be tied together in pairs at the ends, and the two pairs
+then joined at the same place. The object of
+[Page 262]
+these pieces is to give strength and form to the canoe, and to
+offer a firm security for the edges of the bark, which are secured
+between them. The gunwale being prepared, we are now ready for
+the birch bark. The bottom of a well made canoe should be in one
+large piece, as our illustration indicates, if possible. Select
+some large tree with the trunk free from knots or excrescences.
+Mark off as great a length as possible, and chop a straight cut
+in the bark through the whole length of the piece, after which
+it should be carefully peeled from the wood. It will sometimes
+happen, where large birches exist in perfection, that a single
+piece may be found of sufficient size for a whole canoe, but this
+is rather exceptional, and the bottom is generally pieced out,
+as seen in our drawing. This piecing may be accomplished with an
+awl and Indian twine, or by the aid of a large needle threaded
+with the same, sewing with an over-and-over stitch around the edge
+of each piece. Use as large pieces as are attainable, and continue
+to sew them on until the arca of bark measures about four and a
+half feet in width by twelve feet in length, the dark colored sides
+of the bark all facing the same way. Next select a fiat piece of
+ground, and mark off a distance of ten feet, or two feet less than
+the length of the gunwales. At each end of the space two tall stakes
+should be driven into the ground about three inches apart. Now
+turn the bark on the ground with its white side uppermost, and
+fold it loosely and evenly through the long centre. In this folded
+condition it should now be lifted by the upper edge and set between
+the stakes. There will then be about a foot of projecting bark
+beyond each pair of stakes. These ends should now be covered by
+folding another piece of bark over them, sewing the edges firmly
+to the sides of the rude form of the canoe, which now presents
+itself. When this is done, each end should be supported on a log
+or stone; this will cause the bottom line to sink downwards at
+about the proper curve. We are now ready for the gunwale. Lay it
+in the proper position, fitting the edges of the bark between the
+two strips on each side, and sewing around the whole with a winding
+stitch, exactly after the manner of the edge of an ordinary palm-leaf
+fan. The inside of the canoe should now be lined with long strips
+of cedar running through the entire length of the boat if possible,
+but if not, should be so cut as to neatly overlap at the ends.
+These pieces should be an inch or two in width, and from a quarter
+to half an inch-in thickness. The ribs are then to be put in. These
+are generally made from ash, one or two inches in width, and
+[Page 263]
+a quarter of an inch in thickness. Any light flexible wood will
+answer the purpose, and even barrel hoops when attainable will do
+very well. These ribs should be bent to fit the interior of the
+canoe crosswise, either close together, or with equal distances
+between them and the ends should then be firmly secured beneath the
+gunwales by a continuous loop-stitch through the bark. For a canoe
+of twelve feet in length, the width should be about two feet, and in
+order to keep the gunwales firm, two or more cross-pieces should
+be inserted, and lashed firmly at their ends as our illustration
+shows. The centre third of the length of the canoe should be parallel
+at the sides, and if two braces, two feet in length are placed at
+each end of this third, the shape will be about perfect. We now
+have a bark canoe of considerable strength and durability, and
+it only awaits to be made water-proof for final use. In order to
+accomplish this all the seams outside, and the entire interior of
+the canoe should, be smeared with pitch, after which its floating
+qualities may be tested with confidence. Should any leaks occur their
+where-abouts are easily detected, and an additional application
+of pitch will remedy the difficulty. The Indians in sewing their
+bark canoes use tamarack roots, fibrous plants, and grasses, in
+lieu of thread, and even with these inferior materials often attain
+to such perfection in compact sewing, as to render the use of pitch
+unnecessary for water-proof purposes. Such skill is rarely attained
+by the white man, and the art of making a water-proof canoe, even
+out of a single piece of bark, is by no means an easy task without
+the aid of tar or pitch.
+
+[Page 264]
+For the trapper we strongly recommend the birch "bark." With the
+above directions we are sure no one could go astray, and we are
+equally sure that a canoe made as we describe, would present advantages
+of lightness and portability which no other style of boat would
+possess. For temporary purposes, canoes can be made from basswood,
+hemlock, or spruce bark; but they are at best, very rude and clumsy
+in comparison with the birch bark. They are generally made after
+the principles of the above described; either sewing or nailing
+the edges of the bark together, and smearing every joint and seam
+profusely with pitch, and adding gunwales, lining, and ribs.
+
+
+A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT.
+
+The following gives an easy method of making a light and serviceable
+bateau, which any boy, with moderate ingenuity or skill, could
+easily construct:--
+
+Select two boards, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness,
+eighteen or twenty inches in width, and twelve feet in length,
+which we will consider the required length of the boat. These boards
+should be well seasoned, and free from knots, and at least one of
+the sides should be straight.
+
+Next, with the aid of a draw-shave, proceed to shape the ends of
+one of the boards, as seen on our diagram, (_e_) representing the
+forward, (_g_) the stern. The curve of the bow should commence at
+about four feet from the end, and take a rounded slope upward,
+leaving about ten inches of width at the end of the board (_e_).
+The stern should be cut at the angle shown at (_g_), commencing
+at about two and a half feet from the extremity of the board and
+continuing upward to about ten inches from the upper edge. The
+board thus shaped should now be laid evenly on the other, and the
+outline of the cut portions carefully scratched upon it, after
+which the second board should be cut in a similar manner as the
+first, so as to form an exact duplicate.
+
+This being accomplished, the two should be laid evenly, one over
+the other, and the exact center of their long edges ascertained.
+Marking off about five inches on each side of this centre on both
+boards.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Next procure another board about ten inches in width, three feet
+in length, and perfectly squared at the ends. Nail each end of
+this piece securely and squarely in the space marked on each of
+the long boards. Then turn the pieces carefully over and
+[Page 265]
+nail another board across the bottom, directly opposite the first.
+We will now leave them and give our attention to the bow piece,
+which is the next requisite. This is shown at (_a_), and consists
+of a solid piece of oak, or other hard wood, well seasoned, and
+hewn out in the arrow shape, indicated in our illustration. It
+should first be cut three-cornered, the inside face being about
+eight inches, and the other two ten inches. Its length should be
+about eleven inches, and its under side should be sloped off on a
+line with the under curve of the bows. At about five inches from
+the inner face, and on each side, a piece should be sawn out, one
+inch in thickness, thus leaving on each side a notch which will
+exactly receive the side-boards of the boat, as seen at (_a_).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The piece being thus ready, the bow ends of the boards should be
+drawn together, fitted in the notches and securely spiked with
+large nails. A bow piece of this kind adds greatly to the strength
+of a boat, and will stand much rough usage. The board for the stem
+should next be prepared. This should be ten inches in width and two
+feet in length, and should be securely nailed between the ends of the
+boards at the stem, as shown at (_g_), being afterwards overlapped
+on the top by a board of similar size, as our illustration shows,
+at (_c_). The bottom of the boat is now easily made by nailing
+boards crosswise, sawing off the projecting ends close to the curve
+of the side-boards. After the pieces are all nailed in place, the
+seams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, using a blunt chisel,
+or hard wooden wedge, and a mallet. The seats should now be put
+in, as these are not only a matter of comfort, but of necessity,
+acting as braces to the sides of the boat. They should be two in
+number, one being placed three feet from the stern and the other
+one foot beyond the brace board originally nailed across the top
+of the boat. The seats should be cut at the ends in a curve
+corresponding to the part of the boat in which they are placed,
+and should be situated about a foot from the bottom of the boat,
+their ends resting on short boards beneath them against the sides
+of the boat. These are indicated by the dotted lines (_h h_) in
+[Page 266]
+the diagram. When thus resting they should be securely fastened in
+place by strong screws, driven through the sides of the boat into
+their ends (_f f_), allowing some one to sit on the seat meanwhile
+to keep it in place. Small cleats should now be tacked to the bottom
+of the boat, beneath the seat and underneath the seat itself, in
+order to keep the props in place; after which the original brace
+board across the top of the boat may be knocked off and the bateau
+is complete and ready for service. A boat thus made is quite comely
+in shape, and may be painted to suit the fancy. Should a rudder
+be required, the broad board at the stern offers a good place of
+attachment, and oar-locks may be adjusted at the proper places.
+These may consist of a pair of cleats attached to the inside of
+the boat, as seen in the illustration. In case it may be found
+difficult to obtain the large single boards for the sides of the
+boat, two or more narrow ones will answer the purpose, although
+not as perfectly. In this case they should first be firmly attached
+together by cleats, securely screwed to the inside. When first put
+on the water the boat will probably leak in places, but if left
+to soak for a few hours the wood will generally swell sufficiently
+to completely close the crevices. If, however, the leak should
+continue, that particular part of the boat should be re-caulked
+and smeared with pitch. This latter substance is of great value
+to the trapper, not only in boat building but in the construction
+of his shanties and in other various ways. It will most effectually
+stop almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should always
+be applied hot.
+
+
+[Page 267]
+THE SCOW.
+
+The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow for
+considerable speed in the water, either in rowing or sculling;
+but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed bows
+may be dispensed with, and the sides of the boat made perfectly
+straight. In this case the bottom takes equal slopes at the ends,
+and both bow and stern are of the same width, and an ordinary
+flat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result. In many cases
+a scow of this kind answers every purpose, and is certainly much
+more easily made.
+
+We have thus described a few of the most common instances of boats
+used by trappers, and with our full description and illustrations
+no one can go astray. A boat of some kind is almost an indispensable
+requisite to the trapper, and anyone of the foregoing will be found
+sufficient for all ordinary purposes.
+
+A paddle may be used, and in shallow or muddy water a pusher or
+mud-stick will be found useful. This should consist of a pole seven
+or eight feet in length, supplied at the ends with an attachment of
+the shape of the letter U. This may be constructed in two pieces,
+firmly screwed to opposite sides of the end of the pole, and so
+formed as to present a curved crotch. Such a stick will be found
+very useful for pushing through weeds and muddy places. A simple
+pole trimmed so as to leave a crotch at the end will also answer
+the purpose very well.
+
+
+SNOW-SHOES.
+
+These commodities are almost indispensable to the trapper where
+he pursues his vocation in the winter time, during the prevalence
+of deep snows. When properly made they permit the wearer to walk
+over the surface of the snow with perfect ease; where, without
+them, travel would be extremely difficult if not impossible.
+
+In the regions of perpetual snow, and also in Canada and neighboring
+districts, snow-shoes are very commonly worn. In the latter localities
+the "snow-shoe race" forms one of the favorite sports of the season,
+and young and old alike join in its mysteries. Like riding on the
+velocipede, walking on snow-shoes looks "easy enough," but we notice
+that a few somersaults are usually a convincing argument that the art
+is not as simple as it appears. The first experience on snow-shoes
+[Page 268]
+is apt to be at least undignifying, if not discouraging, and in order
+to get used to the strange capers and eccentricities of an ordinarily
+well-behaved snow shoe, it requires considerable patience and practice.
+There is no telling where, in an unguarded moment, they will land
+you, and they seem to take especial delight in stepping on each
+other and turning their wearer upside down. The principal secret
+of success (and one may as well know it at the start, as to learn
+it at the expense of a pint of snow down his back) consists in
+taking steps sufficiently long to bring the widest portion of the
+stepping shoe beyond that of the other, keeping the feet rather
+far apart and stepping pretty high. By observing these precautions,
+and trusting in Providence, much embarrassment may be saved, and
+an hour's effort will thoroughly tame the unruly appendages, which
+at best do not permit of much grace or elegance of gait.
+
+To the moose hunter snow-shoes are often an absolute necessity,
+and trapping in many cases would be impossible without them. They
+are thus brought fully within the scope of our volume, and we give
+a few simple directions for their manufacture. Our illustration
+gives the correct shape of the shoe. The framework should consist
+of a strip of ash, hickory or some other elastic wood, bent into
+the form indicated and wound around the ends with twine or strips
+of hide. The length of the piece should be about six feet, more
+or less, in proportion to the size of the individual who proposes
+to wear the shoe. If the bending should prove difficult it may
+be rendered an easy matter by the application of boiling water.
+Across the front part two strips of stout leather, or other tough
+hide, are then fastened, and these further secured together by three
+or four bands on each side of the middle, as our drawing shows.
+
+In the original Indian snow-shoe, from which our drawing was made,
+the net work was constructed from strips of moose hide, which were
+interlaced much after the manner of an ordinary cane-seated chair.
+Strips of leather, deer skin, or even split cane, above alluded to,
+may also be used, and the lacing may be either as our illustration
+represents, or in the simpler rectangular woof seen in ordinary
+cloth.
+
+In order to attach the interlacing to the bow the latter should be
+wound with wide strips of cane, if it can be procured, or otherwise
+with strips of tough skin. The loops thus formed offer a continuous
+security, and the whole interior, with the exception of the space
+at the front between the cross pieces, should be neatly filled
+with the next work. It is well to run the first lines
+[Page 269]
+across the shoe, from side to side, passing through the windings
+of the bow. Across them, in the form of the letter X, the two other
+cords should be interlaced, after the manner shown in the cut.
+This forms a secure and not very complicated network, and is the
+style usually adopted by the Indian makers.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is another mode of attaching the lace-work to the bow which
+is also commonly employed, and consists in a series of holes bored
+at regular intervals through the wood. The winding is thus dispensed
+with, but the bow is sometimes weakened by the operation, and we are
+inclined to recommend the former method in preference. In attaching
+the shoe, the ball of the foot should be set on the second cross
+piece, and there secured by a strip of hide, which should be first
+adjusted as seen in the engraving, being afterward tied over the
+foot and then behind the ankle. Snow-shoes are made in other ways,
+but we believe that the typical Indian snow-shoe above described
+is the best.
+
+
+THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.
+
+For winter traffic over deep snows there is no better sled in the
+world than the Indian toboggan. To the trapper during a winter
+campaign it is often an indispensable convenience, and without
+it the Indian hunters of the North would find great difficulty in
+getting their furs to market. All through the winter season the
+various trading posts of Canada are constantly visited by numbers
+of Indian trappers, many of whom have travelled hundreds of miles
+on their snow-shoes with their heavily laden toboggans. Arrived at
+[Page 270]
+their market they sell or trade their stock of furs, and likewise
+dispose of their toboggans, reserving only their snow-shoes to aid
+them in their long tramp homewards.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In Canada and northward the toboggan is in very extensive use, both
+for purposes of traffic and amusement. It is quite commonly met
+with in the streets of various Canadian cities, and is especially
+appreciated by the youthful population, who are fond of coasting
+over the crust of snow. For this purpose there is no other sled
+like it, and a toboggan of the size we shall describe will easily
+accommodate two or three boys, and will glide over a crust of snow
+with great ease and rapidity. To the trapper it is especially valuable
+for all purposes of transportation. The flat bottom rests upon
+the surface of the snow, and the weight being thus distributed
+a load of two or three hundred pounds will often make but little
+impression and can be drawn with marvellous ease. Our illustration
+gives a very clear idea of the sled, and it can be made in the
+following way: the first requisite is a board about eight feet
+in length and sixteen or more inches in width. Such a board may
+be procured at any saw mill. Oak is the best wood for the purpose,
+although hickory, basswood or ash will do excellently. It should
+be planed or sawed to a thickness of about a third of an inch,
+and should be free from knots. If a single board of the required
+width is not easily found, two boards may be used, and secured
+side by side by three cleats, one at each end and the other in
+the middle, using wrought nails and clinching them deeply into the
+board on the under side. The single board is much to be preferred,
+if it can be had. The next requisites are seven or eight wooden
+cross-pieces of a length equivalent to the width of the board.
+Four old broom-sticks, cut in the required lengths, will answer
+[Page 271]
+this purpose perfectly, and if these are not at hand other sticks
+of similar dimensions should be used. Two side pieces are next
+needed. These should be about five feet in length, and in thickness
+exactly similar to the cross pieces. Next procure a few pairs of
+leather shoe-strings or some strips of tough calf skin. With these
+in readiness we may now commence the work of putting the parts
+together. Begin by laying the cross pieces at equal distances along
+the board; across these and near their ends lay the two side pieces,
+as seen in the illustration. By the aid of a gimlet or awl, four
+holes should now be made through the board, beneath the end of each
+cross piece, and also directly under the side piece. It is well to
+mark with a pencil, the various points for the holes, after which
+the sticks can be removed and the work much more easily performed.
+The four holes should be about an inch apart, or so disposed as to
+mark the four corners of a square inch. It is also necessary to
+make other holes along the length of the cross pieces, as seen
+in the illustration. The line on these can also be marked with
+the pencil across the board, and the holes made afterwards. These
+should also be an inch apart, and only two in number at each point,
+one on each side of the stick. When all the holes are made the
+board should be turned over, in order to complete preparations
+on the other side. The object of these various holes is for the
+passage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose of securing
+the cross pieces firmly to the board. In order to prevent these
+loops from wearing off on the under side, small grooves should next
+be made connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing the leather
+string to sink into the wood, where it is securely protected from
+injury. A narrow chisel is the best tool for this purpose, the making
+of the grooves being much more easily and perfectly accomplished
+with this than with the jack-knife. When the under side is thus
+finished the board may be turned over and the cross pieces and
+sides again arranged in place as already described. Secure the
+pieces to the board by the leather strings through the various
+holes, always knotting on the upper surface, and taking care that
+the knots are firmly tied. The ends of all the cross pieces will
+require a double cross stitch through the four holes beneath, in
+order to secure the side pieces as well. This is plainly shown in
+the small diagram (_a_). The front end of each side piece underneath
+should now be sharpened to a point, to allow for the bend at the
+front of the toboggan. The cross piece at this end should be secured
+to the under side of the board, so that as it bends over it will
+appear on the upper edge, as our illustration shows. The board should
+[Page 272]
+next be bent with a graceful curve, and thus held in position by a
+rope or strip of leather at each extremity of the end cross piece and
+attached to the ends of the third cross piece, as seen in the engraving.
+If the bending is difficult and there is danger of breaking the board,
+the application of boiling water will render it pliable. The draw
+strings should then be attached to the ends of the second cross piece,
+and our toboggan is now complete.
+
+It may now be laden with two or three hundred pounds of merchandize
+and will be found to draw over the surface of the snow with perfect
+ease. For coasting over the crust there is nothing like it. Such a
+toboggan as we have described will easily accommodate three boys,
+the one at the stern being provided with a sharp stick for steering,
+and the front occupant holding firmly to the draw strings. The
+toboggan is easily made, and will do good service either for traffic
+or sport.
+
+
+CURING SKINS.
+
+This department of the trapper's art is one of the most important
+and necessary, as affecting pecuniary profits. The value of a skin
+in the fur market depends entirely upon the care with which it
+is taken from the animal and afterward prepared, and without a
+knowledge on this subject the young trapper will in vain seek for
+high prices for his furs. Large quantities of valuable skins are
+sent to our markets annually by inexperienced amateur trappers,
+and in many cases rare and beautiful furs have been almost spoiled
+by want of care in skinning and curing. The rules are simple and
+easily followed, a little care being all that is necessary to insure
+most perfect success. In every case the skin should be removed
+shortly after death, or at least before it has become tainted with
+decay. Great pains should be taken in skinning. Avoid the adherence
+of flesh or fat to the skin, and guard against cutting through the
+hide, as a pierced skin is much injured in value. The parts about
+the eyes, legs and ears should be carefully removed. The various
+methods of skinning are described in our section on trapping, and
+in all cases the furs should be allowed to dry in a cool, airy
+place, free from the rays of the sun or the heat of a fire, and
+protected from rain.
+
+Astringent preparations of various kinds are used by many trappers,
+but they are by no means necessary. The most common dressing consists
+of equal parts of rock salt and alum dissolved in water. Into this
+a sufficient amount of coarse flour or wheat bran is stirred to give
+[Page 273]
+the mixture the consistency of batter, after which it is spread
+thickly over the skin and allowed to dry.
+
+It is afterwards scraped off, and in some cases a second application
+is made. This preparation is much used in dressing beaver, otter,
+mink and muskrat skins, but as many of our most successful and
+experienced trappers do without it, we fail to see the advantage of
+using it, as it is only an extra trouble. The simplest and surest
+way is to stretch the skin and to submit it to a gradual process
+of natural drying without any artificial heat or application of
+astringents to hasten the result.
+
+A very common mode of stretching skins consists in tacking them to
+a board, with the fur inwards, and allowing them to dry as already
+described.
+
+This method does very well for small skins, but for general purposes
+the "stretchers" are the only means by which a pelt may be properly
+cured and prepared.
+
+
+STRETCHERS.
+
+The board stretcher is the simplest form and is in most common use
+among trappers for the smaller animals. These stretchers are of
+two kinds, the plain and the wedged. The plain stretcher consists
+of a piece of board a quarter of an inch in thickness, about eighteen
+inches long and six inches in width. One end of this board is rounded
+off, as seen in our illustration, and the sides should also be
+whittled and smoothed to a blunt edge.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The board stretchers are used only for those skins which are taken
+off whole, that is, as described in the chapter on the otter. The
+skin should be drawn tightly over the blunt end of the board, and
+its edges either caught in notches cut in the edges of the square
+end or secured by a few tacks. This stretcher is particularly
+[Page 274]
+adapted to the skins of muskrats, minks and animals of a like size.
+They are known in New England as "shingle stretchers," and are much
+to be recommended on account of their lightness and the ease with
+which they can be made and carried.
+
+The wedge stretcher is rather more elaborate than the foregoing,
+and is said to be an improvement.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first requisite is a board of about three-eighths of an inch in
+thickness, two feet or more in length, and three and a half inches
+at one end tapering to the width of two inches at the other. This
+end should now be rounded, and the edges of the board whittled off
+to a blunt edge, as already described in the foregoing, commencing
+near the centre of the board, and thinning to the edge, and finishing
+with the notches at the square end. Now, by the aid of a rip-saw,
+sever the board through the middle lengthwise.
+
+The wedge is the next thing to be constructed, and should consist
+of a piece of wood the thickness of the centre of the board and
+of the same length, tapering from an inch in width at one end to
+half an inch at the other.
+
+To use the stretcher the two boards are inserted into the skin,
+(the latter with the fur side inward). The wedge is then inserted
+between the large ends of the boards and driven in sufficiently to
+stretch the pelt to its full capacity, securing it in the notches
+by slight cuts in the hide, or by a tack or two at the edge. It
+should then he hung in a cool, airy place, and the pelt left to
+"season."
+
+The bow stretcher is another contrivance very commonly used for
+small skins like the foregoing. When this is used the pelt should
+be skinned as described on page 185, the initial cut commencing
+at the lower jaw and extending down between the fore legs, all
+the feet being previously cut off. The bow may consist of a switch
+of any elastic wood such as hickory iron wood, elm or birch. It
+should be about three or more feet in length, and as large as a
+man's thumb at the butt end. By bending it in the shape of the
+letter U it may easily be inserted in the skin, the latter being
+[Page 275]
+fastened by catching the lip on each side into a sliver notch cut on
+each end of the bow, as our illustration indicates.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+For large animals, such as the deer, bear, beaver, the hoop stretcher
+is generally employed.
+
+
+THE HOOP STRETCHER.
+
+This consists of a hoop made from one or more flexible switches
+tied together so as to form a circle. In order to be adapted to
+this mode of stretching, the skin should be flat, _i. e._ taken
+off as described on page 172, the initial cut extending from the
+lower jaw to the vent. The size of the hoop required depends upon
+the dimensions of the skin. Lay the latter upon some flat surface
+and so gauge the hoop as that it shall surround the pelt on all
+sides; after which the latter should be secured or laced to the
+hoop with twine at the edges. All loose parts should be drawn up,
+and the skin should everywhere be stretched like a drum head. When
+this is accomplished it is the custom with many trappers to apply
+the preparation described on page 273, particularly where the skin
+is thick and fatty. But we are rather disposed to discourage the
+use of any preparation whatever, in any case, as they are by no
+means necessary.
+
+In using the board stretchers the fur should always be on the inside,
+and when the hoop or bow is used it should be placed in such a
+position, that the air may circulate freely on both sides of the
+skin, which should not be removed until thoroughly dry.
+
+
+[Page 276]
+TANNING SKINS.
+
+In case some of our readers might desire to tan fur skins for their
+own domestic purposes, the subjoined directions will be found to be
+reliable, and for all ordinary requirements, sufficiently adequate.
+
+For tanning with the hair on, the skin should first be cleaned,
+every particle of loose fat or flesh, being removed, and the useless
+parts cut away. When this is done, it should be soaked for an hour
+or two in warm water. The following mixture should then be prepared:
+Take equal parts of borax, saltpetre, and sulphate of soda, and
+with them mix water sufficient to produce the consistency of thin
+batter.
+
+This preparation should be painted thickly on the flesh side of
+the skin, after which these sides should be doubled together and
+the pelt left in an airy place.
+
+A second mixture should next be prepared. This should consist of
+two parts sal soda; three parts borax; four parts castile or other
+hard soap: all to be melted together over a slow fire. At the end
+of twenty-four hours, after the application of the first mixture,
+the second should be applied in a similar manner, and the fur again
+folded and left for the same length of time. Next, make a mixture
+equal parts of salt and alum, dissolved in warm water and thickened
+with coarse flour to the consistency of thin paste. Spread this thickly
+over the skin and allow it to dry, after which it should be scraped
+off with the bowl of a spoon. The skin should be tightly stretched
+during the operation, in order to prevent too great shrinkage. A
+single application of the last-named dressing, is generally sufficient
+for small skins; but a second or third treatment may be resorted
+to if required, to make the skin soft and pliable, after which it
+should be finished off with sand-paper and pumice stone. A skin
+may be thus dressed as soft as velvet, and the alum and salt will
+set the hair securely.
+
+The above directions are excellent, for all general purposes, but
+we subjoin, in addition, a few other valuable hints and specific
+recipes in common use. Every trapper has his own peculiar hobby
+in regard to his tanning process, and the recipes are various and
+extensive. The above is one of the most reliable for general use.
+A common mode of tanning mink and muskrat skins is given in the
+following:--
+
+
+TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS.
+
+Before tanning, the skin should always be thoroughly cleansed
+[Page 277]
+in warm water, and all fat and superfluous flesh removed. It should
+then be immersed in a solution made of the following ingredients:
+Five gallons of cold soft water; five quarts wheat bran; one gill
+of salt; and one ounce of sulphuric acid. Allow the skins to soak in
+the liquid for four or five hours. If the hides have been previously
+salted, the salt should be excluded from the mixed solution. The
+skins are now ready for the tanning liquor, which is made in the
+following way: into five gallons of warm, soft water, stir one peck
+of wheat bran and allow the mixture to stand in a warm room until
+fermentation takes place. Then add three pints of salt, and stir until
+it is thoroughly dissolved. A pint of sulphuric acid should then be
+poured in gradually, after which the liquor is ready. Immerse the
+skins and allow them to soak for three or four hours. The process
+of "fleshing" is then to be resorted to. This consists in laying the
+skin, fur side down, over some smooth beam, and working over the
+flesh side with a blunt fleshing tool. An old chopping knife, or
+tin candlestick, forms an excellent substitute for the ordinary
+fleshing knife, and the process of rubbing should be continued
+until the skin becomes dry, after which it will be found to be
+soft and pliable. The skin of the muskrat is quite tender, and the
+fleshing should be carefully performed.
+
+
+HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, AND MARTEN.
+
+These should be stretched on a board and smeared with a mixture
+composed of three ounces each, of salt and alum; three gills of
+water, and one drachm of sulphuric acid. This should be thickened
+with wheat bran or flour, and should be allowed to dry on the skin,
+after which it should be scraped off with a spoon. Next, take the
+skin from the board, roll it with the fur inside, and draw it quickly
+backward and forward, over a smooth peg, or through an iron ring.
+The skin should then be unfolded and rolled again the opposite
+way, and the operation repeated until the pelt is quite soft and
+flexible. This is a good way of softening all kinds of skins, and
+the above preparation will be found excellent for all ordinary
+purposes. The muskrat skin may be treated in the same manner as
+the above, if desired, and the process directed on the muskrat
+skin may also be applied to the pelts of the other animals.
+
+To remove the fur for a simple tanned skin, the hide should be
+immersed in a liquid composed of--soft water, five gallons; slaked
+lime, four quarts; and wood ashes, four quarts. Allow
+[Page 278]
+the skin to soak for a couple of days, after which the fur will
+readily slip off.
+
+Another method--take equal parts wood ashes and slaked lime, and
+add water to the consistency of batter. Spread this over the inside
+of the skin, roll it up, and place it in a pail, covering it with
+water. Here let it remain from one to five days, or until the hair
+will shed easily, after which it should be finished with the fleshing
+knife and velveted with sand paper.
+
+
+OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.
+
+In all cold climates, man has availed himself liberally of the
+warm covering with which nature has clothed the animals around
+him; but the wealth of the most favored nations has drawn to them
+the most beautiful furs, in whatever part of the world they are
+procured. Skins of animals were among the first materials used
+for clothing. Before Adam and Eve were driven from the Garden of
+Eden, they were furnished with coats of skins. The ancient Assyrians
+used the soft skins of animals to cover the couches or the ground
+in their tents, and the Israelites employed badger's skins and
+ram's skins, as ornamental hangings for the Tabernacle. The ancient
+heroes of the Greeks and Romans, are represented as being clothed
+in skins. Æneas, wearing for an outer garment, that of the lion,
+and Alcestes being formidably clad in that of the Libyan Bear.
+Herodotus speaks of those living near the Caspian Sea wearing seal
+skins, and Cæsar mentions that the skin of the reindeer formed in
+part the clothing of the Germans. In the early period, furs appear
+to have constituted the entire riches of the Northern countries,
+and they were almost the only exports. Taxes were paid on them,
+and they were the medium of exchange. So it was also in our own
+Western territories in the latter part of the last century, and is
+to the present day, to a great extent, among the Indians. In the
+eleventh century, furs had become fashionable throughout Europe,
+and the art of dyeing them, was practiced in the twelfth. In the
+history of the Crusades, frequent mention is made of the magnificent
+displays by the European Princes, of their dresses of costly furs,
+before the Court at Constantinople. But Richard I. of England, and
+Philip II. of France, in order to check the growing extravagance
+in their use, resolved that the choicer furs, ermine and sable
+amongst the number, should be omitted from their kingly wardrobes.
+Louis IX. followed their example in the next century, but not
+[Page 279]
+until his extravagance had grown to such a pitch, that _seven hundred
+and forty-six_ ermines were required for the _lining_ of one of his
+_surcoats_. In the times, the use of the choicer furs, as those
+of the sable, ermine, gris, and Hungarian squirrel, was restricted
+to the royal families and the nobility, to whom they served as
+distinctive marks and badges of rank. These privileged persons
+applied them lavishly to their own use, and the fashion extended
+to the princes of other less civilized nations. Their royal use
+soon extended to Tartary, and the tents of the Khan were bedecked
+with the most rich and costly furs. In the following century, furs
+were commonly worn in England until their use was prohibited by
+Edward III., to all persons whose purse would not warrant a yearly
+expenditure of £100.
+
+The early fur trade of Western Europe, was conducted through the
+merchants on the south coast of the Baltic, who received goods from
+the ports of Livonia. In the sixteenth century, a direct trade was
+opened between the English and Russians; and a company of the former,
+protected by the Czar, established trading posts on the White Sea,
+and a warehouse at Moscow, whence they sent trading parties to
+Persia and the countries on the Caspian Sea. The Czar sent rich
+presents of beautiful furs, to Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth;
+but the latter prohibited the wearing of any but native furs, and
+the trade soon declined and was abandoned. In the 17th century,
+Siberia was conquered by the Russians, and its tribute was paid
+in furs. Large quantities were also furnished to China, but the
+choicest kinds--the precious ermine, the brilliant, fiery foxes, and
+the best sables, were taken to Moscow, for the use of the princes
+and nobles of Russia, Turkey, and Persia.
+
+In our own country, the early settlers of the Northern provinces,
+soon learned the value of the furs of the numerous animals which
+peopled the extensive rivers, lakes, and forests of these vast
+territories. They collected the skins in abundance, and found an
+increasing demand for them, with every new arrival of immigrants
+from the mother country. Trinkets, liquors, and other articles
+sought for by the native tribes, were shipped to Quebec, and from
+thence up the St. Lawrence to Montreal, which soon became the great
+trading post of the country. The various tribes of Indians were
+stimulated by trifling compensation, to pursue their only congenial
+and peaceful occupation; and the French settlers, readily assimilating
+to the Indian habits, became themselves expert hunters, trappers,
+and explorers.
+
+The business prospered, and the English soon became interested and
+secured a share of the valuable trade. Many
+[Page 280]
+wealthy and influential parties, connected with the government
+of Great Britain,--Prince Rupert and Lord Ashley, among the
+number--became deeply interested in this source of revenue; and
+after a successful enterprise, they obtained from Charles II., a
+charter of incorporation, giving to them full possession of the
+territory within the entrance of Hudson's Straits, not already granted
+to other subjects, or possessed by those of any other Christian
+prince or State. In this charter was included the monopoly, of all
+trade in these regions, and thus we see the origin of the Great
+Hudson's Bay Company, which is to-day, one of the largest organizations
+of its kind on the globe. The territory they claimed, extended
+from Hudson's Bay, west to the Pacific, and north to the Arctic
+Ocean, excepting that occupied by the French and Russians. They
+soon formed settlements upon the various rivers which empty into
+Hudson's Bay, and carried on their operations with immense vigor
+and success. They met with much opposition and open hostility from
+the French, and were subjected to vast expenses and losses, but in
+spite of all, they continued to prosper. Their forts or factories
+were extended further into the interior of British America, and
+their power was supreme throughout the country, and in a great
+measure over the Indians, whom they employed to collect their skins.
+In the course of time, the French Canadians organized themselves
+into a united band, under the name of the North West Company, and
+established their headquarters at Montreal. Their operations were
+carried on with great energy and profit, and many factories were
+built in the western portion of the Province. The company thus soon
+became a formidable competitor with the Hudson's Bay Company and
+for a period of two years, an actual state of war existed between
+them. This condition of affairs finally terminated in a consolidation
+of the two organizations, under the name of the Hudson's Bay Company,
+the privileges of which extended over all the territory formerly
+occupied by both.
+
+Thus, we have the history of the famous Hudson's Bay Company, from
+its origin to its perfect organization. It is a most stupendous
+concern, and its annual shipment of furs, is something amazing.
+Their great sales take place in the month of March, in order to
+be completed before Easter; and again in September, every year
+at London, and are attended by purchasers from nearly all parts
+of the world. Leipsic, the famous fur mart of Germany, is also
+the scene of a great annual fair, for the sale of skins.
+
+The importance of the fur trade in this country, led to the
+[Page 281]
+early settlement of the Western territories of the United States;
+and many a frontier city, like St. Paul, has been built up by the
+enterprise of the trapper. Mackinaw and Montreal owe much of their
+growth to the traffic of the fur trade; and many a kingly fortune--John
+Jacob Astor's, for instance--has been founded on peltry.
+
+Besides the above fur sales in London a moderate portion of those
+annually collected in the United States are retained for use, amounting
+to about 150,000 mink and 750,000 muskrat skins, besides a number
+of other furs which are manufactured and worn.
+
+The annual yield of raw furs throughout the whole world is estimated
+at over twenty millions of dollars in value; and when we include
+the manufactured articles therefrom, the amount will swell to a
+hundred millions or over. This will serve to give some idea of
+the immensity and value of the business.
+
+American dealers divide our native furs into two classes, viz.,
+_home_ and _shipping_ furs; the former being chiefly utilized in
+our own country, while the latter are exported to all parts of
+the world. New York City is the great fur mart and depot for the
+shipping trade in this country, and the annual value of its exports,
+in this one branch of trade is enormous.
+
+The principal shipping furs are the silver, red and cross Fox, Wild
+Cat, Raccoon, Fisher, Muskrat and Skunk.
+
+Among the home furs are the Marten, Mink, Opossum, Wolf and Muskrat,
+the latter being extensively used both here and abroad.
+
+In the following chapter will be found more detailed notes on the
+leading American furs, including their various uses and the different
+countries for which they are the especial staples.
+
+In order to give the reader some idea of the variety and magnitude
+of the yield of furs from our own country, we annex a table (p.
+282) showing the sales of the Hudson's Bay Company, at London,
+in the year 1873.
+
+
+MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS.
+
+Below will be found an authentic table of the comparative values
+of the various American furs at the present date of publication.
+The quotations are those of one of our largest fur dealers, as
+published in "THE HAT, CAP AND FUR TRADE REVIEW," the leading journal
+of the trade in America. Of course these values are constantly
+varying--keeping pace with the eccentricities of fashion and the
+demands of the fur trade; but
+[Page 282]
+the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values, as
+between the two extremes of common and scarce furs. The fur market
+is a great deal like the stock market. It is constantly fluctuating,
+and a fur which is to-day among the novelties, may next year find
+itself on the low priced list. The demand for furs of any kind
+is nearly always governed by fashion, and of course the value is
+estimated on the demand. If the convention of fur dealers should
+decide to usher in _Muskrat fur_ as the leading and most fashionable
+article in that line, the fashion would create the demand, the
+demand would be in turn supplied by the trappers throughout the
+country, and in proportion as the Muskrat skins became scarce,
+so their value would increase. In this way a skin which may be
+worth fifty cents at one time may soon acquire a value of twenty
+times that amount. The comparative value of skins is, therefore,
+constantly varying more or less; but the annexed table (page 283)
+will be found useful for general reference, and for approximate
+figures, will probably answer every purpose for some time to come.
+
+ ==========================================================================
+             |  No. of |  No. of |         |                     |Estimated
+             |  Skins. |  Skins. |  Total  |  Price according to | average
+    KINDS.   |  March  |  Sept.  |   No.   |        quality.     |price per
+             |  Sale.  |  Sale.  |         |                     |  skin.
+ ------------|---------|---------|---------|-------------------------------
+             |         |         |         |                     |  £ s. d.
+ Badger      |   2,700 |         |   2,700 | 1s. to 7s.          |     1 06
+ Bear        |   5,217 |   2,794 |   8,011 | 5s. to £8 l0s.      |  5  0 00
+ Beaver      | 111,993 |  37,052 | 149,045 | 4S. 3d. to 38s. 6d. |  1 00 00
+ Fisher      |   2,843 |     779 |   3,622 | 8s. to £3 5s.       |  2 10 00
+ Fox, Blue   |      90 |         |      90 | 18s. to £4.         |  2 10 00
+  "   Cross  |   1,818 |     471 |   2,289 | 5s. to £4.          |  1 10 00
+  "   Kitt   |   6,930 |         |   6,930 | 2s. 8d. to 28s. 10d.|     3 00
+  "   Red    |   6,914 |   1,383 |   8,297 | 4s. 6d. to 17s.     |    10 00
+  "   Silver |     540 |     148 |     688 | £3 10s. to £21.     | 10 00 00
+  "   White  |   7,312 |         |   7,312 | 2s. to 14s. 9d.     |     7 00
+ Lynx        |   2,468 |   1,652 |   4,120 | 9s. 6d. to £1 14s.  |    18 00
+ Marten      |  47,878 |  18,955 |  66,833 | 10s. to £3 19s.     |  1 10 00
+ Mink        |  31,802 |  12,896 |  44,698 | 4s. to £1 8s. 6d.   |    15 00
+ Muskrat     | 651,498 | 116,488 | 767,896 | 3d. to 16d.         |    00  8
+ Otter       |   8,571 |   2,681 |  11,252 | 14s. to £3 18s.     |  2 10 00
+   "   Sea   |         |      98 |      98 | £4 10s. to £32.     | 15 00 00
+ Rabbit      |  10,029 |         |  10,029 | 3d. to 4d.          |    00  3
+ Raccoon     |         |   3,582 |   3,582 | 1s. to 3s. 3d.      |     2  6
+ Skunk       |   1,691 |         |   1,691 | 2s. to 7s.          |     4 00
+ Wolf        |   6,216 |     188 |   6,404 | 6s. to £2 15s.      |    15 00
+ Wolverine   |   1,770 |     320 |   2,090 | 8s. to £1 1s.       |    15 00
+ ==========================================================================
+
+
+[Page 283]
+ AMERICAN FUR SKINS--TABLE OF VALUES.[*]
+ ==========================================================================
+                                       | Prime. |Seconds.| Thirds.|Fourths.
+ --------------------------------------|--------|--------|--------|--------
+ Badger                                |  $1.00 |  $0.50 |  $0.10 |  $
+ Bear, Black                           |  18.00 |   9.00 |   1.00 |
+   "   Cub                             |  10.00 |   5.00 |   1.00 |
+   "   Brown                           |   7.00 |   4.00 |   1.00 |
+ Beaver, California            per lb. |   1.25 |     75 |     50 |
+    "    Southern                      |   1.00 |     75 |     40 |
+    "    Upper Missouri                |   1.75 |   1.50 |     50 |
+    "    Lake Supr. and Canada.        |   2.50 |   1.75 |     75 |
+ Cat, Wild                             |     40 |     10 |        |
+  "   House                            |     15 |     10 |        |
+ Deer, Florida                 per lb. |     20 |        |        |
+  "    Missouri                        |     20 |        |        |
+ Elk and Moose                 per lb. |     35 |     25 |        |
+ Fisher, Southern                      |   7.00 |   5.00 |   1.00 |
+   "     Eastern and Canada            |  10.00 |   8.00 |   2.00 |
+ Fox, Silver                           | 100.00 |  25.00 |   1.00 |
+  "   Cross                            |   3.00 |   1.50 |   1.00 |
+  "   Blue                             |  15.00 |   5.00 |   1.00 |
+  "   White                            |   3.00 |   1.50 |        |
+  "   Red                              |   1.75 |   1.00 |     75 |     25
+  "   Gray                             |   3.00 |   1.50 |     50 |     25
+  "   Kitt                             |     50 |     25 |        |
+ Lynx, Minnesota                       |   2.50 |   1.00 |        |
+  "    Canada                          |   4.00 |   2.00 |        |
+ Marten, Dark                          |  10.00 |   6.00 |   2.00 |
+   "     Small Pale                    |   2.00 |   1.00 |     50 |
+ Mink, Southern                        |   1.00 |     50 |     25 |     10
+   "   Western                         |   1.25 |   1.00 |     50 |     10
+   "   Middle States                   |   2.00 |   1.25 |     50 |     10
+   "   Minnesota                       |   2.50 |   1.50 |     75 |     20
+   "   New England                     |   3.50 |   1.75 |   1.00 |     20
+   "   Quebec and Halifax              |   4.00 |   2.00 |   1.00 |     20
+ Muskrat, Southern                     |     28 |     25 |     15 |      5
+    "     Western                      |     30 |     28 |     18 |      6
+    "     Northern                     |     32 |     30 |     20 |      8
+    "     Eastern                      |     35 |     30 |     22 |     10
+ Opossum, Ohio                         |     30 |     20 |     10 |
+    "     Southern                     |     20 |     10 |        |
+ Otter, Southern                       |   5.00 |   3.00 |   2.00 |     50
+   "    Northern                       |  10.00 |   6.00 |   2.00 |     50
+ Rabbit                                |      3 |        |        |
+ Raccoon, Southern                     |     50 |     30 |     15 |      5
+    "     Western                      |   1.00 |     50 |     20 |      5
+    "     Michigan                     |   1.25 |     80 |     30 |      5
+ Seal, Hair                            |     60 |        |        |
+   "   Fur                             |  10.00 |        |        |
+ Skunk, Black Cased                    |   1.00 |     60 |     40 |     10
+   "    Half Stripe                    |     60 |     50 |     25 |     10
+   "    White                          |     20 |     10 |        |
+ Wolf, Timber                          |   3.00 |   1.50 |        |
+   "   Prairie                         |   1.00 |     75 |        |
+ Wolverine                             |   5.00 |   2.00 |        |
+ ==========================================================================
+
+[Footnote *: From the "Hat Cap and Fur Trade Review."]
+
+[Page 284]
+Notwithstanding all these advertised prices, the young trapper
+often experiences great difficulty in a profitable disposal of his
+furs. Like every other business, the fur trade runs in its regular
+grooves, and the average furrier will often pay an experienced
+professional five dollars for a skin for which he would not offer
+a _dollar_ to an amateur. This certainly seems discouraging, but
+the knowledge of the fact is calculated to prevent _greater_
+discouragement.
+
+We often see fancy prices advertised by fur dealers for first-class
+skins; but when the furs are sent, only a few are selected as "_prime_,"
+the rest being rejected as worthless, or perhaps meeting with a
+meagre offer far below the regular rates. In this way the dealers
+have the opportunity of choice selection without incurring any
+risk. Many a young trapper has been thus disappointed, and has
+seen his small anticipated fortune dwindle down to very small
+proportions.
+
+The fur trade is supplied through regular professional channels;
+and in giving our advice to the novice, we would recommend as the
+most satisfactory and profitable plan that he should make his sales
+to some local hunter or trapper, who has had experience with the fur
+trade, and who is satisfied to pay a fair price for the various skins
+with the probability of selling at an advance, and thus realizing
+a profit.
+
+In nearly every trapping locality such men are to be found, and
+although the prices earned may be below the market rates, the amateur
+takes none of the speculative risks of the business, and should
+be willing to take lower prices on this account.
+
+
+AMERICAN FUR SKINS--THEIR USES AT HOME AND ABROAD.
+
+In the early history of fur apparel, its use was determined by
+_climate_; to-day, and especially in this country, it is regulated
+by the caprice of _fashion_. The mink for many years took the lead
+in the list of fashionable furs, but has of late been superseded
+by the introduction of the fur seal. The most choice and costly
+of our American furs at the present day is the Silver Fox. When
+highly dressed they are worth from 10 to 50 guineas each in the
+European market. They are principally bought by the Russians and
+Chinese.
+
+The skins of the Red Fox are purchased by the Chinese, Greeks,
+Persians, and other Oriental nations. They are made into linings
+for robes, etc., and ornamented with the black fur of the paws
+which is set on in spots or waves. The fur of the
+[Page 285]
+Beaver was formerly highly prized in the manufacture of hats. and
+yielded a large portion of the profits of the Fur Companies,
+constituting the largest item in value among furs. Cheaper materials
+have since been substituted in making hats, and the demand for
+this purpose has been greatly reduced. By a new process the skin
+is now prepared as a handsome fur for collars and gauntlets, and
+its fine silky wool has been successfully woven. The soft, white
+fur from the belly of the animal, is largely used in France for
+bonnets.
+
+Raccoon skins are the great staple for Russia and Germany, where,
+on account of their durability and cheapness, they are in demand
+for linings for coats, etc. Among the Bear skins, those of the
+black and grizzly are extensively used for military caps, housings,
+holsters, sleigh robes, etc,
+
+The fur of the Lynx is soft, warm and light, and is commonly dyed
+of a beautiful shining black. It is used for the facings and linings
+of cloaks, chiefly in America.
+
+The Fisher yields a dark and full fur which is largely used in
+fashionable winter apparel.
+
+The skin of the Marten, is richly dyed and utilized in choice furs
+and trimmings.
+
+The Mink, like the two foregoing, belongs to the same genus as
+the Russian Sable, and its fur so much resembles the latter as to
+be sometimes mistaken for it. It is one of fashion's furs, and the
+hair of the tail is sometimes used in the manufacture of artist's
+pencils.
+
+The Muskrat produces the fur most worn by the masses, and is largely
+exported into Germany, France and England. It is estimated that
+over six millions of muskrat skins are annually taken in America,
+and of that number one-half are used in Germany alone.
+
+The skin of the Otter is at present classed among the leading
+fashionable furs in this country. They are dyed of a deep purplish
+black color, and are made into sacques, muffs, etc. It is also
+used by the Russians, Greeks and Chinese. It is mostly an American
+product, but is also procured to some extent in the British Isles
+from a smaller variety of the species.
+
+The skins of the Wolf are chiefly used for sleigh robes and such
+purposes. The fur of the Rabbit is mainly employed in the manufacture
+of felt, and is also utilized for lining and trimming. The business
+of breeding rabbits for their fur has been introduced into the
+United States, and large numbers have been successfully raised in
+Danbury, Conn., for felting purposes connected with the manufacture
+of hats.
+
+[Page 286]
+The fur of the Wolverine or Glutton, finds a market for the most
+part in Germany, where it is used for trimmings and cloak linings.
+
+The Skunk furnishes the fur known as Alaska Sable, which forms
+one of our staple pelts, many thousands being annually exported
+to Poland and the adjacent provinces.
+
+The Badger yields a valuable and fashionable fur, which is also
+extensively used in the manufacture of artist's brushes; a good
+"badger blender" forming a valuable accessory to a painter's outfit.
+Shaving brushes by the thousand are annually made from the variegated
+hair of the badger.
+
+The Opossum yields a fur in very common use among the masses, and
+the skins of the domestic Cat are utilized to a considerable extent
+in the manufacture of robes, mats, etc. The fur of the Puma and Wild
+Cat are also employed in this form, and may often be seen handsomely
+mounted and hanging on the backs of sleighs on our fashionable
+thoroughfares. Among the small game the skins of Squirrels are used
+for linings, and the soft, velvety fur of the Mole is manufactured
+into light robes, and very fine hats, and in theatrical paraphernalia
+is sometimes employed for artificial eyebrows.
+
+Full descriptions of the color of the various furs will be found
+in our lengthy illustrated chapter on our American animals.
+
+[Illustration: THE END.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 289]
+[Illustration: INDEX]
+
+A
+
+Adirondack experiences with mosquitoes, 256.
+Advice to the Novice on the sale of Furs, 283.
+Air-tight Jar, for butter, &c., 236.
+Alaska Sable, 286.--See also Skunk.
+Alcohol, its use and abuse, 257.
+Alum--used in waterproofing, 249.
+"Amateur Trapping," 225.
+AMBER, OIL OF, used in the art of Trapping, 152.
+AMERICAN FUR SKINS.--Table of values, 284.
+  Their uses at Home and Abroad, 284.
+American Lion.--See Puma.
+Amputation, self inflicted, as a means of escape with captured
+  animals, 144.
+  To prevent, 144, 145.
+Ancient uses of Furs, 278.
+ANISE, OIL OF.--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+  As bait for fish, 240.
+Annual yield of Furs throughout the world, 281.
+Apparatus for stretching skins, 273.
+Arrows, poisoned, 26.
+Arrow Traps, 23, 25.
+Artificial Eyebrows of Mole Fur, 286.
+ART OF TRAPPING, 148.
+ASSAFOETIDA.--
+  Its use by the Trapper, 151.
+  As scent bait for fish, 240.
+ASTOR, JOHN JACOB, and the Fur Trade, 281.
+Astringent Preparations, use of, in drying Skins, 273, 276.
+
+B
+
+BADGER, THE,--
+  Nature and habits of, 175.
+  Skinning the, 177.
+  Trapping the, 175.
+  Uses of Fur, 286.
+  Value of Fur, 284.
+Bags, Waterproof, for food, 236.
+Baiting the Steel Trap, 143.
+Baits for fishing, 240.
+Baits, scent, 149.
+Bait, Trapping without, 148.
+BARK SHANTY.--
+  Hints on, 266.
+  Details of construction, 245.
+Bark-Stone.--See Castoreum.
+Bark-Stone composition.--See Castoreum.
+"Barque."--See Birch Bark Canoe.
+Barrel Hoops used in canoe building, 264.
+BARREL TRAPS, 125, 127, 133.
+Basket for the shoulders, 234, 236.
+Basswood-bark canoes, 264.
+Bateaux, 264.
+BAT FOWLING NET, 70.
+Baking, recipe for, 253.
+Bay Lynx.--See Wild Cat.
+Beans as food, 235.
+BEAR.--
+  Nature and habits of, 168, 227.
+  Trapping the, 168.
+  Traps for, 17, 29, 143.
+  Various species of, 168.
+  Directions for removing skin, 172.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+"Bear Tamer," 137, 142.
+"Bear Chasing," dangers of the sport, 170.
+[Page 290]
+Bear Grease, 171.
+Bear Meat, to roast, 233.
+  "    " to dry, 237.
+BEAVER.--
+  Nature and habits of, 177.
+  Trapping the, 177.
+  Skinning the, 182.
+  Skin, to tan, 277.
+  Use of fur, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+BEDS AND BEDDING, 248.
+Bed, spring, 248.
+ "   hammock, swinging, 249.
+Bed clothes, 249.
+BIG HORN, the, 220.
+  As food, 220, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 220.
+  Trapping the, 220.
+BIRCH BARK CANOE, remarks on, 226.
+  Directions for making, 261.
+Bird-Catching Net, 70.
+BIRD LIME, 97.
+  Masticated Wheat used as, 99.
+  Recipe for making, 98.
+  Used in capture of Puma, 35.
+  Used for capture of Humming Bird, 99.
+  Used in making Fly-paper, 136.
+  Used with an Owl as decoy, 98.
+  With paper cone, as a Crow trap, 96.
+BIRD TRAPS, 65.
+  "  Box, 88, 90. 91.
+BIRD WHISTLE, 72.
+BISON.--See Buffalo.
+Black Fly.--See "Punkey."
+Blanket, woollen, 250.
+  Rubber, 236.
+  Use of, 250.
+Block-tin, used for kettles, &c., 235.
+Blossom, utilized as a trap, 99.
+Blow-gun, used in the capture of Humming Bird, 99.
+BOARD FLAP, the, 130.
+BOARD STRETCHERS, 273.
+BOATS, remarks on, 226.
+  Manufacture of, 259.
+  The dug-out, or log canoe, 259.
+  The birch-bark canoe, 261.
+  The bateau, 264.
+  The scow, 267.
+  The flat-bottomed boat, 267.
+Boiled Mush, 232.
+    "       to fry, 232.
+Boiling water used in bending wood, 268, 272.
+Book I. TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME, 17.
+    II. SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS, 39.
+   III. TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65.
+    IV. MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103.
+     V. HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125.
+    VI. STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137.
+   VII. THE CAMPAIGN, 225.
+  VIII. THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255.
+Boots, hints on, 228.
+  Grease for, 228.
+Bottle Lantern, 241.
+   "  Match Safe, 234.
+BOW STRETCHER, for skins, 274.
+BOW Traps, 23, 25, 116.
+BOWL TRAPS, 135, 136.
+Box Bird Traps, 55, 88, 90, 91.
+BOX DEAD FALL, 128.
+Box Hut, used in Pickerel fishing, 241.
+BOW OWL TRAP, 88.
+BOX PIT-FALL, 131.
+BOX SNARES, 55, 56.
+BOX TRAP, the, 103.
+  Two modes of setting, 105.
+Box Traps, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110.
+BOX TRAP, pendent, 91.
+Brandy on a trapping campaign, 257.
+Brass wire nooses, 41.
+Brick Trap, 66.
+Broiling, recipes for, 233.
+Brook Trout, fishing through the ice, 240.
+  "   To cook deliciously, 232.
+Bruises, ointment for, 255.
+Buckskin gloves, in handling traps, 149.
+Building the camp fire, 233.
+Buffalo, the, 220.
+  As food, 221, 238,
+  How hunted and trapped, 221.
+Building boats, 259.
+Butternut log, for canoe, 239.
+Butter, to keep on a campaign, 236.
+
+C
+
+Cage traps for birds, 76.
+     "      "  mice, 134.
+Call Birds, how used, 72.
+CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS, 225.
+CAMPAIGN, PLAN OF, 225.
+Camp fire, 228.
+  To build, 233.
+Camp Kettle, 235.
+  "  Knife, 235.
+  "  Stove, 228, 235.
+Canada Grouse, 238.
+   "   Lynx.--See Lynx.
+   "   Moose.--See Moose.
+Candles, in camp, 227.
+  "  Novel way of using, 218.
+[Page 291]
+Canned vegetables, 236.
+CANOES, remarks on, 226.
+  "     Basswood-bark, 264.
+  "     Birch-bark, directions for building, 261.
+  "     Hemlock bark, 264.
+  "     Log.--See Dug-out.
+  "     Spruce bark, 264.
+Canton flannel bags, for bed clothes, 249.
+Canvass-back Duck, as food, 239.
+Canvas bags, waterproof, 236.
+Caps, percussion, used in lighting fire, 234.
+CAPTURE OF ANIMALS, 154.
+CARPETING TENTS, 250.
+CASTOREUM, or Barkstone, 150.
+  How obtained, 150.
+  How used.--See Beaver.
+CASTOREUM COMPOSITION, 150.
+Cat, domestic, use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Cat, wild.--See Wild Cat.
+Caulking boats, 261, 266.
+Caution in baiting steel traps, 113.
+Caution in handling steel traps, 149.
+Chill, remedy for, 257.
+Chimney-fire in log shanty, 245.
+Chip as a plate, 232.
+Chip, for a frying pan, 230, 232.
+Chloride of Lime, as an antidote, 152.
+Choosing a trapping ground, 225.
+Cicely, Sweet, as scent bait in fishing, 240.
+Cities built up by the fur trade, 281.
+CLAP NET, 72.
+Clearing tents and shanties from insects, 230.
+Climate and fur apparel, 284.
+CLOG, THE, 146.
+Cloth for tent making, 247.
+  "  Waterproof preparation for, 247.
+Clothing, hints on, 228.
+Coasting on the Indian sled, 270.
+Cock of the plains, 238.
+Coffee, 236.
+Coffee-pot, 235.
+Cold, remedy for, 257.
+Combination camp-knife, 235.
+COMMON BOX TRAP, 103.
+Compass, pocket, 227.
+Compound scent-bait, 150, 153.
+Concealing steel traps, 229.
+Cone of paper as a trap, 96.
+Corrall, African trap, 34.
+COOKING UTENSILS FOR A CAMPAIGN, 230, 235.
+Coon.--See Raccoon.
+COOP TRAP, 67.
+  " For large game, 33.
+Cotton drilling, used for making tents, 247.
+  "  Waterproof preparation for, 247.
+"Cotton Tail."--See Rabbit.
+Cougar.--See Puma.
+Cow's udder, as fish bait, 240.
+Crackers as food, 236.
+Crow trap, 96.
+CUMMIN, used in trapping, 152.
+Cup, portable, 231.
+CURING SKINS, 272.
+Current price list of American furs, 284.
+
+D
+
+Dark lantern, used by bird catchers, 71.
+  Deer hunters, 217.
+DEAD-FALLS, 17, 29, 107, 111, 113.
+  "  Box, 128.
+  "  For large game, 17.
+  "  How set for the fox, 113.
+  "  Stone, 29.
+  "  Weighted harpoon, 26.
+  "  With figure four trap, 114.
+Dead fish, valuable in making trails, 153.
+Decoys, 72, 76, 94.
+Decoy traps, 72, 76, 94.
+  "  Whistle, 74.
+  "  Owl used as, 98.
+DEER, 124.
+  As food, 233, 237, 238.
+  How to skin the, 219.
+  Hunting at night, 217, 218.
+  Luminosity of eyes at night, 217, 218.
+  Natural characteristics of, 214.
+  Salt as bait for, 218.
+  Season for hunting, 218.
+  Trapping the, 214, 215.
+  Various modes of hunting, 217.
+  Various species of, 215.
+Deer lick, the, 215.
+Deer meat, to dry, 237.
+Deer meat, to roast, 233.
+Delmonico outdone, 232.
+Detecting the direction of the wind by the finger, 217.
+Devices used in connection with the steel trap, 144, 147.
+Devils' Lantern, 241.
+Diet of the Trapper, 230.
+"DOUBLE ENDER," the, 109.
+Double traps, 57, 109, 110, 129.
+DOWN FALL, the, 26.
+Dressing for fur skins, 273, 276.
+Dressing for leather, 228.
+Dressing skins for market, 272.
+  "  Home use, 276.
+Dried fish, 237.
+Dried venison, 237.
+Drilling, as tent material, 247.
+  "  Waterproof preparation for, 247.
+[Page 292]
+Drinking cup, portable, 231.
+Drying skins, 272, 273, 276.
+Ducks, various species of, 239.
+  As food, 239.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+DUCK TRAPS, 94, 95.
+"DUG-OUT," THE, hints on, 226.
+  Detailed directions for making, 259.
+
+E
+
+Eels, oil prepared from, 151.
+Elk.--See Moose.
+"Ephraim."--See Bear.
+Escaping from the mosquitoes, 255.
+Exports of furs, 281, 285.
+Extemporized frying pan, 232.
+  "Toaster," 233.
+Extract of beef, Liebig's, 236.
+Extravagance in fur apparel, 279.
+
+F
+
+False bottom traps, 127, 131, 133.
+Fashion and fur, 279, 283, 285.
+FEATHERED GAME, TRAPS FOR, 65.
+Felt, use of rabbit-fur in making, 286.
+FENNEL, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152.
+FENUGREEK, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152.
+FIGURE FOUR SNARE, 61.
+FIGURE FOUR TRAP, 107.
+  "  Used with Dead-Fall, 114.
+Finger, as a weather vane, 217.
+Fire, to build, 227.
+  "  To light without matches, 234.
+  "  With powder and cap, 234.
+  "  Without "anything," 235.
+Fire arms, 227.
+  "  Oil for, 227.
+Fire bottle, 241.
+Fire Hat for night hunting, 218.
+Fire-proof preparations for tents, 247.
+Fish, to bake, 232.
+  To dry, 237.
+  To fry, 233.
+FISHER MARTEN.--
+  How to trap the animal, 194.
+  Its nature and habits, 194.
+  Its common mode of release from capture, 144.
+  Method of skinning, 195.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+FISH-HOOK, trap for ducks, 95.
+Fishing, hints on, 239.
+  At night, 239.
+  Through the ice, 240.
+  Various baits, 240.
+  With tip-up. 240.
+  For pickerel, 240.
+Fishing tackle, 227, 240, 241.
+Fish lantern, 241.
+FISH OIL, used in the art of trapping, 151.
+  How obtained, 151.
+Fish, scent baits for, 240.
+  Spearing, 239.
+Fish traps, 120, 241.
+Flat bottomed boats, 264, 267.
+Flat bottomed sled.--See Toboggan
+Flat stone, as a frying pan, 232.
+Flower, converted into a trap, 99.
+Fly, black.--See "Punkey."
+FLY-PAPER, to make, 136.
+Fly Tent, the, 246.
+Fly traps, 136.
+Food, portable, 230.
+FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS, 230.
+"FOOLS' CAP" TRAP FOR CROWS, 96.
+Forks, 235.
+Fortunes founded on peltry, 281.
+FOWLING NET, the, 70.
+Fox.--
+  Nature and habits of, 154.
+  Trapping the, 154.
+  Trapped by a dead-fall, 111, 113.
+  Varieties of, 154.
+  Directions for skinning, 158.--See also Red and Silver Fox.
+"Fox fire," used in capture of deer, 218.
+Fritters, pork, to cook, 231.
+Frying pan, 231, 235.
+  "  An extemporized, 232.
+Fur Market, eccentricities of, 283.
+Furs, ancient uses of, 278.
+  Annual yield throughout the world, 281.
+Furs, best season for, 147.
+  "Home," 281.
+  Sale of, by Hudson's Bay Company, 281.
+  "Shipping," 281.
+  Table of market values, 282.
+Fur skins, to cure for market, 272.
+  To tan, 276.
+  Hints on selling for profit, 283.
+  Various uses of, 285.
+FUR TRADE, OBSERVATIONS ON, 278.
+  Immensity of, 281.
+
+G
+
+Game, protected from wolves, 237.
+GAROTTE TRAP, 114.
+Gloves to be used in trapping, 149.
+Glutton.--See Wolverine.
+[Page 293]
+Gnats, 230, 256.
+  Painful effects of their bites, 256.
+  Remedies for their bites, 255.
+  Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
+Gnat, black.--See "Punkey."
+Goose trap, 75.
+GOPHER.--
+  Nature and habits of, 205.
+  Trapping the, 205.
+  Traps for, 119, 120, 40.
+  Directions for skinning, 206.
+Grappling iron, the, 146.
+Grease for boots and shoes, 228.
+"Great Bear Tamer," the, 142.
+GRIZZLY BEAR.--
+  Nature and habits of, 169.
+  Trapping the, 169.
+  Traps for, 17, 142.
+  Use of fur, 285.
+Ground plan of trapping lines, 228.
+Ground, selection for trapping, 225,
+GROUND SNARES, 44.
+Grouse, as food, 233, 238.
+  Bait for, 42.
+  Oil of, for fire arms, 227.
+  Peculiarities of, 42.
+  Snares for, 39.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+  Various species of, 238.
+GUN TRAP, 20.
+
+H
+
+Hair Nooses, 41.
+Half tent, 246.
+Hammocks, 250,
+Hammock bed, 249.
+Handling steel traps, caution in, 149.
+Hanging bed, 249.
+Hare.--See Rabbit.
+HARPOON TRAP of Africa, 26.
+Hat Brim, portable, 258.
+  Netting attachment for, 258.
+Hat lantern for night hunting, 218.
+Hawk snare, 43.
+HAWK TRAP, 93.
+Head lantern used in deer hunting, 218.
+HEAD NET, 257.
+HEDGE NOOSES, 41.
+Hemlock bark canoes, 264.
+Hemlock boughs, as bedding, 250.
+Hemp, used in caulking boats, 261, 266.
+"Hiding" steel traps, 229.
+High top boots, 228.
+Hints on baiting the steel trap, 143.
+Hints on selection of trapping ground, 225.
+Hints on skinning animals, 272.
+Hints on trapping, 148.
+Hints on plans of trapping lines, 228.
+Hints on sale of furs, 283.
+Hippopotamus trap, 26.
+Historical items relating to furs and the fur trade, 278.
+Hoe cake, to cook, 232.
+Hogs carried off by bears, 170.
+Hog's liver used as fish bait, 240.
+"Home Furs," 281.
+HOME-MADE BOAT, 264.
+Honey as bait, 19, 31, 170.
+Hook trap for ducks, 95.
+Hopo, African trap, 34.
+Hoop nooses, 40.
+HOOP STRETCHER for skins, 275.
+Horse hair nooses, to make, 41.
+Hot drink for chills, 257.
+HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125.
+House Tent, 247.
+How to select a steel trap, 138.
+HOW TO TRAP, 153.
+Hudson Bay Company, origin of, 280.
+  Sales of, 281, 282.
+Humming bird, killed by concussion, 99.
+  "  Snare, 99.
+  "  Trap, 99.
+  "  Various modes of capture, 99.
+Hunting the deer, 217.
+Hunting from trees, 218.
+HUT, LOG.--See Log Shanty.
+
+I
+
+Implements required on a trapping campaign, 227.
+Improved springle, 60.
+INDIAN CANOE.--See BIRCH BARK CANOE.
+Indian meal, as food, 231.
+INDIAN SLEDGE.--See Toboggan.
+INDIAN SNOW SHOE, 268.
+India-rubber blanket, 236.
+  How used, 250.
+INSECT OINTMENTS, 255.
+Insect bites, remedies for, 255.
+  "  Sores resulting from, 257.
+Insects, to drive out from tent or shanty, 230, 256.
+Intemperance, 257.
+
+J
+
+Jack knife, a valuable tool, 227. Jar, as a trap, 135.
+[Page 294]
+Jar, air-tight, for butter, 236.
+"Jerked Venison," 231.
+JOHN JACOB ASTOR, and the fur trade, 281.
+Johnny cake, to cook, 232.
+
+K
+
+Kettle, camp, 235.
+Knapsack, 234.
+  Directions for making, 236.
+Knife, a necessary implement, 227.
+Knife, the combination camp, 235.
+Knives, table, 235.
+
+L
+
+Lake trout, fishing for, 240.
+  To cook deliciously, 232.
+Lantern for the head, used by deer hunters, 218.
+Lantern used by bird catchers, 71.
+Lantern trap for fish, 241.
+Large game, traps for, 17.
+LAVENDER, used in the art of trapping, 152.
+Leather preservative, 228.
+"Le Chat."--See Lynx.
+Lemonade, 236.
+Lens, to light fire with, 234.
+Lever for setting large steel traps, 142.
+Liebig's extract of beef, 236.
+Light, the trapper's, 227.
+Light for the head in night hunting, 218.
+Light home-made boat, 264.
+Lime, chloride of, as a disinfectant, 152.
+Liniment for wounds and bruises, 255.
+  "  Insect bites, 255.
+Linseed oil, used as bird lime, 98.
+Lion, American.--See Puma.
+LIST OF PRICES OF AMBRICAN FURS, 284.
+Liver, as fish bait, 240.
+LOG CABIN.--See Log Shanty.
+Log Canoe.--See Dug-Out.
+LOG COOP TRAP, 33.
+LOG SHANTY, hints on, 226, 229.
+  Detailed directions for building, 244.
+  Site for building, 244, 287.
+  To clear of gnats and mosquitoes, 230.
+Lucifer Matches.--See Matches.
+"Luxuries," 234.
+LYNX, THE CANADIAN, 164.
+  Natural characteristics of, 164.
+  Trapping the, 164.
+  Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 33, 35, 141.
+LYNX.--
+  Directions for skinning, 166.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+
+M
+
+Mackinaw and the Fur Trade, 281.
+Mallard Duck as food, 239.
+  "  to Cook.--See Duck.
+MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS, 281.
+Marmot.--See Woodchuck.
+MARTEN:--
+  Nature and habits of, 192.
+  Trapping the, 192.
+  Its common mode of escape, 144.
+  Directions for removing skin, 194.
+  How to tan the Skin, 277.
+  Value and use of skin, 284, 285.
+Mastic Varnish used in water-proofing, 234.
+MATCHES, 227.
+  Bottle used for carrying, 234.
+  To render water-proof, 234.
+Meal, Indian, as food, 231.
+Meat, to dry, 237.
+"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS, 149.
+Menagerie Whistle, 74.
+Merganser, the, as food, 239,
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+MIDGETS, 256.
+  Painful effect of their bites, 256.
+  Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
+  Ointments for bites, 255.
+  Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
+MINK:--
+  Nature and habits of, 189.
+  Trapping the, 189.
+  Traps for, 43, 141.
+  Its common mode of escape from the steel trap, 144.
+  Directions for skinning, 191.
+  To tan skin of, 277.
+  Extensive use of skins in America, 281.
+  Uses of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+MISCELLANEOUS hints on trapping, 148.
+MISCELLANY, the Trapper's, 255,
+MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103.
+MOLE, 207.
+  Beauty of fur, 209, 211.
+  Life and habits of, 207.
+  Trapping the, 119, 210.
+  Traps for, 119, 120, 140.
+  Varieties of, 211.
+  Directions for skinning.--See Gopher.
+  Use of fur, 286.
+[Page 295]
+Montreal and the Fur Trade, 281.
+MOOSE:--
+  Nature and habits of, 219.
+  Trapping the, 220.
+  "Yards," 220.
+  Flesh as food, 220, 223, 238.
+  How to skin the animal, 220.
+Moose meat, to roast, 233.
+  "  Meat to dry, 237.
+MOSQUITOES, 230.
+  Painful effects of their bites, 257.
+  Ointments for bites, 255.
+  Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
+  Adirondack experiences with, 255, 256.
+  Head-net, 257.
+  Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
+Mouse Traps, 124, 130, 131, 134, 135.
+Mud Stick or Pusher, 267.
+Mush, to boil, 232.
+  to fry, 232.
+MUSK:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 151.
+  How obtained, 151.
+MUSKRAT:--
+  Nature and habits of, 182.
+  Pit-fall Trap for, 133.
+  Spearing the, 183.
+  Trapping the, 182.
+  Traps for, 43, 107, 110, 111, 114, 133, 141.
+  Its common mode of release, 144.
+  Extensive use of skins in America, 281.
+  Skin, to remove, 185.
+    To tan, 277.
+    Use of, 286.
+    Value of, 284.
+Muscovy Duck as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+Musquaw.--See Bear.
+
+N
+
+Natural Advantages utilized by the Trapper, 149.
+Natural History.
+  Necessity of its study in the art of Trapping, 148.
+Neatsfoot Oil for Fire Arms, 227.
+NET:--
+  " Bat fowling, 70.
+  " Bird catching, 70.
+  " Clap, 72.
+  " Decoy, 72.
+  " Fish, use of, 241.
+Net for the head, 257.
+  "  Fowling, 70.
+Net traps, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85.
+  For Tiger, Puma, or Wild Cat, 35.
+  Spring, 80.
+  The upright, 85.
+  Wild Duck, 94.
+  Wild Goose, 175.
+Netting attachment for Hat brim, 258.
+NEWHOUSE TRAP, THE, 138.
+Night-hunting, 217, 218.
+Night-fishing, 239.
+Nooses:--
+  Horse hair, 41.
+  In hedge, 42.
+  On hoops, 40.
+  On string, 40.
+NOOSE TRAPS, 39.
+Nooses, wire, 41.
+Northwest Fur Company, 280.
+Nutting in Mid-winter, 212.
+
+O
+
+Oar-locks, simple, 266.
+Oat-meal as food, 236.
+OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE, 278.
+Oil, Fish.--
+  Used in trapping, 151.
+  How obtained, 151.
+Oil of Amber.--
+  Used in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Ambergris.--
+  Used in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Anise:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Cinnamon:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Fennel:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Fenugreek:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Lavender:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Rhodium:--
+  Its use by trappers, 151.
+Oil of Skunk:--
+  Its use by trappers, 151.
+Oil:--
+  For fire arms, 227.
+  For light, 227.
+Oil of Partridge:--
+  Its use, 227.
+Oil of Pennyroyal:--
+  For insect bite, 255.
+[Page 296]
+Ointment for Bruises and Wounds, 255.
+OINTMENT FOR INSECT BITES, 255.
+OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE, 58.
+Olive Oil in cooking, 236.
+OPOSSUM, 201.
+  Nature and habits of, 202.
+  Trapping the, 201.
+  Hunting the, 202.
+  Directions for skinning, 203.
+  Uses of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+OTTER:--
+  Nature and habits of, 202.
+  Trapping the, 186.
+  Directions for skinning, 189.
+  How to tan the skin, 277.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+OWL TRAP, 88.
+Owl:--
+  Used in connection with bird lime as decoy, 98.
+
+P
+
+Paint as a water-proof covering, 236.
+Painter, the.--See Puma.
+Panther, the.--See Puma.
+Paper Cone used as a trap, 96.
+Partridge, 42, 238.
+  As food, 238.
+  Fat for fire arms, 227.
+  Snares, 39, etc.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+Peltry:--
+  Fortunes founded on, 281.
+  Cities built up on, 281.
+PENDENT BOX, BIRD TRAP, 91.
+Pennyroyal for insect bites, 255.
+Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257.
+Percussion Cap used in lighting lire, 234.
+Peshoo, the.--See Lynx.
+Phosphorescent wood used in night-hunting, 218.
+Phosphorus lantern for catching fish, 241.
+Pickerel fishing, 240.
+  "  Spearing, 241.
+  "  Trap for, 121.
+  "  To cook, 233.
+Pigeon Net-trap, 72.
+Pigs carried off by Bears, 170.
+Pine Log Canoe.--See Dug-out.
+Pinnated Grouse, 238.
+Pitch for stopping leaks, 261, 264, 266.
+PIT-FALL TRAPS.--
+  For large game, 31.
+  For small game, 125, 127, 131.
+  Barrel, 127.
+  Box, 131.
+  For Muskrat, 133.
+PLAN OF TRAPPING CAMPAIGN, 225.
+Plates, substitutes for, 232, 235.
+Platform snare. 61.
+Poachers, or trap robbers, 229.
+POACHER'S SNARE, 48.
+Pocket compass, 227.
+POCKET HAT BRIM, 258.
+  "  Sun-glass, 234.
+Poisoned arrows, 26.
+POISONING, 222.
+Pop-corn as bait for Quail, 54.
+Portable boats, 259.
+Portable food & cooking utensils, 230, 235.
+Portable drinking cup, 231.
+  Hat brim, 258.
+   " With netting attached, 258.
+  Snares, 50, 52.
+  Stove, 228, 235.
+Pork as food, 231.
+  "  Fritters, 251.
+  "     "  To make, 232.
+"Possum."--See Opossum.
+Potatoes as food, 235.
+Pouched Rat.--See Gopher.
+Powder used in lighting fire, 234.
+Prairie Hen, 238.
+Prairie Whistle, 74.
+Precautions in handling steel traps, 156.
+PREFACE, 3.
+Preparation of skins for market, 272.
+Preserve jar used as trap, 135.
+Price Current of American Furs, 284.
+Prime fur, best season for, 147.
+Prof. Blot outdone in cooking, 232.
+Profit in selling furs, 233.
+PRONGHORN Antelope, 221.
+  Nature and habits of, 221.
+  How hunted and trapped, 221, 238.
+Provisions, to protect from Wolves, 237.
+Ptarmigan, to cook, 233.
+  Trap for, 75.
+  How hunted and trapped, 239.
+  Various species of, 230.
+PUMA:--
+  Bait for, 20, 31, 32, 163.
+  Nature and habits of, 161.
+  Peculiarities of, 20.
+  Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 31, 33, 141.
+  Trapping the, 161.
+  Directions for skinning, 164.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Pumice Stone, used in finishing skins, 276.
+"PUNKEY."--
+  Description of the Insect, 256.
+  Severity of bites, 256.
+  Ointment for bites, 255.
+  Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
+[Page 297]
+Punk Tinder, used in lighting fire, 234. "Pusher."--See Mud stick.
+Putty, for stopping leaks, 261.
+
+Q
+
+Quail, bait for, 40, 54.
+  "  Snares, 39, 40, 41, etc.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+Quotations of the Fur Market, 284.
+
+R
+
+RABBIT:--
+  As food, 238.
+  Bait for, 203.
+  How to skin, 204.
+  Nature and habits of, 203.
+  Salt as bait for, 109,
+  Traps for, 43, 64, 103.
+  Use of fur, 286.
+  Value of fur, 284.
+  Varieties of, 203.
+RACCOON:--
+  As a pet, 173.
+  Nature and habits of, 172.
+  Trapping the, 172.
+  Traps for, 110, 116, 141.
+  Hunting the, 172.
+  Directions for skinning, 175.
+  How to tan the skin, 277.
+  Use of the fur, 285.
+  Value of the fur, 284.
+Rat:--
+  Snares for, 43.
+  Trapping the, 125.
+  Traps for, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138.
+Rations for a Campaign, 230.
+Raw Furs.--See Furs.
+Recipe for insect ointments, 255.
+  Boot grease, 228.
+  For cooking, 230.
+  For curing skins, 272.
+  For tanning skins, 276.
+Red Fox.--See Fox.
+Red Fox.--
+  Value of skin, 284.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+Red Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257.
+Red Squirrel.--See Squirrel.
+Remedies for insect bites, 255.
+  For chills, 257.
+Requisites of a good steel trap, 138.
+  "  For snaring, 39.
+  "  For a good trapping ground, 225.
+  "  For a trapping campaign, 227.
+Revolver, 227.
+Reynard outwitted by a dead-fall, 111, 113.
+RHODIUM, Oil of:--
+  Its use by the trapper, 151.
+Rice as food, 236.
+Rifle and Shot Gun combined, 227.
+  Oil for, 227.
+RIFLE TRAP, 20.
+Roasting, recipes for, 233.
+Rocky Mountain Sheep.--See Big Horn.
+"Roughing it," 230.
+Rubber blanket, 236.
+  How used, 250.
+Ruffed Grouse.--See Partridge.
+Rum on a trapping campaign, 257.
+
+S
+
+Sage Cock, the, 238.
+Sale of furs by the Hudson's Bay Company, 282.
+Salmon, spearing, 239.
+  "  Spear, 239.
+Salmon Trout, spearing, 239.
+Salmon, to cook deliciously, 232.
+Salt as bait for Deer, 218.
+  As bait for Rabbit, 109.
+Salt Lick, the, 218.
+Sandpaper used in softening skins, 276.
+Salt Pork as food, 231.
+SCENT BAITS, 149.
+  "  Compound, 150, 153.
+Scented baits for birds, 240.
+Scented baits for fish, 240.
+Season for Deer hunting, 218.
+Scow, 267.
+Season for trapping, 147.
+Selection of trapping ground, 225.
+Self-amputation as a means of escape with captured animals, 144.
+Self-amputation, to prevent, 144, 145.
+Self-raising flour, 235.
+SELF-SETTING TRAPS, 110, 125, 127, 131.
+SHANTY:--
+  Bark.--See Bark Shanty.
+  "Home."--See Log Shanty.
+  Log.--See Log Shanty.
+Sheeting as tent material, 247.
+  Water-proof, preparation for, 247.
+Shellac Varnish used in water-proofing, 234.
+SHELTER:--The trapper's remarks on, 226.
+Shelter tent, 247.
+  Details of construction, 242.
+Shingle stretchers for skins, 274.
+[Page 298]
+"Shipping furs," 281.
+SHOOTING AND POISONING, 222.
+Shot-gun Trap, 20.
+Shot-gun combined with rifle, 267.
+Shoulder basket, 234, 226.
+SIEVE TRAP, 65.
+Silver Fox, 154.
+  Value of skin, 284, 285.
+Skinning animals, hints on, 272.
+Skins:--
+  Stretchers for, 273.
+  To dry, 272, 276.
+  To soften, 276, 277.
+  To tan, 276.
+  Value of, 284.
+  Use of, 285.
+SKUNK, 195.
+  Adventure with, 196.
+  As food, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 195.
+  Trapping the, 195.
+  Traps for, 43, 111, 114, 141.
+  To eradicate odor of, 152, 198.
+  Oil of, used in trapping, 151.
+  Directions for skinning, 198.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Sled, Indian.--See Toboggan.
+SLIDING POLE, 145.
+Slippery Elm used for bird-lime, 98.
+"Small Game" as food, 237.
+Smell, acute sense of, in animals, 148.
+Smoking the steel trap, 128.
+Smouldering birch bark to drive away insects, 230.
+Smudge, the, 230, 256.
+SNARE.--
+  Box, 55.
+  Double box, 56.
+  Fig. Four, 62.
+  Hawk, 43.
+  Hedge, 42.
+  Hoop, 40.
+  Humming-bird, 99.
+  Knotted string, 52, 53, 54.
+  Pasteboard box, 56.
+  Platform, 61.
+  Poacher's, 48.
+  Portable, 48, 50, 52.
+  Quail, 53.
+  Rat, 43.
+  "Simplest," 52.
+  Springle, 58, 60.
+  Stovepipe, 120.
+  Tree, 42.
+  Triangle, 42.
+  Twitchup, 43.
+  Wood Chuck, 43.
+SNARES, OR NOOSE TRAPS, 37.
+Snaring, requisites for, 39.
+Snow Grouse, the, 238.
+SNOW-SHOES, 267.
+Snow-shoe race, 267.
+Softening skins, 276, 277.
+Sores resulting from insect bites, 257.
+Soups, recipes for, 236.
+Spearing fish, 239, 241.
+Spearing Muskrats, 183.
+Spider for cooking, 233.
+Spoons, 235.
+Spring-bed, 249.
+SPRINGLE, 58, 60.
+Spring-net Traps, 80.
+Spring-pole, the, 144.
+Spring, to temper, 84.
+Spruce Bark Canoes, 264.
+Spruce boughs as bedding, 250.
+Spruce Grouse, 238.
+SQUIRRELS, 211.
+  As food, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 211.
+  Traps for, 43, 103, 106, 107, 110, 116, 128, 140.
+  Various species of, 213.
+  To cook, 233.
+  Use of skins, 286.
+STEEL TRAPS, 137.
+  Caution in handling, 149.
+  Concealing in the woods, 229,
+  Various modes of setting, 144.
+  Requisite number for a campaign, 227.
+  To set for rats, 128.
+  To select judiciously, 138.
+  Requisites of, 138.
+  Hints on baiting, 143.
+Steel Trap spring, to set with lever, 142.
+STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137.
+Still hunting, 217.
+Stimulants, 257.
+Stone Dead-fall, 29.
+Storing traps in the woods, 229.
+Stove, portable, 228, 235.
+Stovepipe fish-trap, 120.
+St. Paul, Minn., and the Fur Trade, 281.
+STRETCHERS FOR SKINS, 273.
+Strychnine poisoning, 222.
+Sucker wire nooses, 41.
+Sugar of lead used in water-proofing, 247.
+Sun-glass, 234, 235,
+Sweet Cicely as bait for fish, 240.
+SWEET FENNEL.--
+  Oil used in trapping, 152,
+Sweet Oil and Tar Ointment for insect bites, 255.
+Swinging bed, 249.
+
+[Page 299]
+T
+
+Table knife and bowl trap, 135.
+Table showing sale of furs by Hudson Bay Company, 282.
+Tallow, mutton, as ointment, 255.
+Tame Geese as decoys, 75.
+TANNING SKINS, 276.
+  Mixtures, 276, 277, 278.
+  With the hair on, 276.
+  Simple, 278.
+Tar and Sweet Oil ointment for insect bites, 255.
+Tar for water-proofing, 264.
+Tea, 236.
+ " Red pepper, as a remedy, 257.
+Teal Ducks as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+"Telescope" Drinking Cup, 231.
+Tempering iron spring, 84.
+TENTS, 246.
+  House-tent, 246.
+  Fly-tent, 247.
+  Half-tent, 247.
+  Shelter-tent, 247.
+  Materials, 247.
+  Water-proof preparation for, 247.
+  Fire-proof preparation for, 247.
+  To carpet with spruce, 250.
+  To clear of gnats and musquitoes, 230.
+TENT CARPETING, 250.
+Thimble used with bowl as Mouse trap, 136.
+Tiger captured with bird lime, 35.
+Tiger trap, 31.
+Tinder, 234.
+Tip-ups, 240.
+Toaster, an extemporized, 233.
+TOBOGGAN, OR INDIAN SLEDGE, 269.
+Tools required on a trapping campaign, 227.
+Tools required for canoe building, 259.
+Torch for the head, used in night hunting, 218.
+"Touch-wood " used in lighting fire, 234.
+Trail. The.--
+  Its value to the trapper, 153.
+  Various modes of making, 153.
+TRAP.--
+  Arrow, 23, 25.
+  Barrel. 125, 127.
+  Bird, 65, 70, 73, 75, 88, 90, 91, 96.
+  Bow, 23, 25, 116.
+  Bowl, 135.
+  Box, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110.
+  Brick, 66.
+  Cage, 76, 134.
+  Cob house, 67.
+  Coon, 110, 116, 141.
+  Coop, 33, 67, 70.
+  Crow, 96.
+  Dead-fall, 17, 107, 111.
+  Decoy, 72, 76, 94.
+  Double ender, 109.
+  Down-fall, 26.
+  Duck, 94, 95.
+  Fish, 120.
+  Fish hook, 95.
+  Fly, 136.
+  Fool's-cap, 96.
+  Garotte, 114.
+  Gun, 20.
+  Harpoon, 26.
+  Hawk, 42, 93.
+  Hook, 95.
+  Jar, 135.
+  Mole, 119, 120.
+  Mouse, 130, 131, 134, 135.
+  Net, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85.
+  Owl, 88.
+  Partridge, 43, etc.
+  Pendent Box, 91.
+  Pitfall, 11, 125, 127, 131.
+  Ptarmigan, 75.
+  Quail, 39, 40, 41, 53.
+  Rabbit, 43, 64, 103.
+  Rat, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138.
+  Rifle, 20.
+  Self-setting, 110, 125, 127, 131.
+  Sieve, 65.
+  Spring net, 80, 83, 85.
+  Steel, 140.
+  The "Newhouse," 140.
+  Tree, 42, 91.
+  Upright net, 85.
+  Wild Duck, 94, 95.
+  Wild Goose, 75.
+  Woodchuck, 43.
+Trapper's beds and bedding, 248.
+  "  Cooking utensils, 230.
+  "  Diet, 230.
+TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255.
+  "  Shelter, 226, 242.
+  "  Sled.--See Toboggan.
+TRAPPING, art of, 148.
+  Season for, 147.
+  Miscellaneous hints on, 148.
+  Campaign, plan of, 225.
+    Tools and other requisites, 227.
+    Ground, selection of, 225.
+  Valuable suggestions on, 228.
+Trapping Lines, 226.
+Trap robbers, 220.
+Traps for large game, 17.
+[Page 300]
+  FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65.
+  HOUSEHOLD, 125.
+Tree hunting, 218.
+Tree snare, 42.
+  "  Traps, 42, 91.
+TRIANGLE SNARE, 42.
+Trout, to cook deliciously, 232.
+Trumpet Creeper flower used as a trap, 99.
+Tumbler fly-trap, 136.
+Twitch-up, 43, 62.
+  Poacher's, 48.
+  Portable, 50.
+  "Simplest," 52.
+
+U
+
+UPRIGHT NET TRAP, 85.
+  "  Snares 44, 58.
+Use and abuse of Alcohol, 257.
+Uses of fur skins, 285.
+Utensils for cooking, 230, 235.
+
+V
+
+Value of fur skins, table of, 262.
+Various uses of fur skins, 285.
+Varnish water-proof preparation for preserving matches, 234.
+Vegetables for food on a campaign, 235.
+  "  Canned, 236.
+Venison as food, 233, 237.
+  To roast, 233.
+  To preserve, 237.
+  "Jerked," 237.
+  Dried, 237.
+
+W
+
+Walking on the snow, 267.
+War in the fur trade, 281.
+Watch crystal as sun glass, 287.
+Water fowl as food, 239.
+Water-proof application for boats, 261, 264, 266.
+  "  Canvas bags, for food, 236.
+Match safe, 234.
+  "  Preparation, 236, 247, 266.
+  "  Varnish for matches, 234.
+Water traps, 110, 120.
+Wedge stretcher for skins, 274.
+Weighted harpoon trap, 26.
+Wheaten grits as trappers' food, 236.
+Wheat flour as food, 235.
+  "  Self-raising, 235.
+Wheel form of trapping lines, 229.
+Whiskey on a trapping campaign, 257.
+Whip lashes from Woodchuck hide, 204.
+Whistlebird, 74.
+White Birch Canoe, 261.
+White-wood log for Dug-out, 259.
+Widgeon, the, as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+WILD CAT:--
+  Nature and habits of, 167.
+  Snares for, 43.
+  Trapping the, 166.
+  Skinning the, 168.
+  Uses of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Wild Duck, to cook, 233.
+Wild Duck, traps, 94, 95.
+Wild Goose as food, 239.
+Wild Goose to cook, 233.
+Wild Goose trap, 75.
+Wind, direction of, to detect by the finger, 217.
+Winged vermin, 255.
+Winter fishing, 240.
+Wire cage trap for birds, 76.
+  "    "  For mice, 134.
+Wire nooses, 41.
+WOLF.--
+  Nature and habits of, 158.
+  Trapping the, 158.
+  Poisoning the, 222.
+  Traps for, 20, 141.
+  To protect provisions from, 237.
+  Varieties of, 158.
+  Directions for skinning, 161.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+WOLVERINE:--
+  Nature and habits of, 199, 238.
+  Trapping the, 199.
+  Natural enemy to the Beaver, 200.
+  Directions for skinning, 201.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+WOODCHUCK, 204.
+  As food, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 204.
+  Snare, 205.
+  Trapping the, 204.
+  Use of skin, 204.
+  Smoked from its burrow, 205.
+  Removing skin of, 205.
+Woodcock, to cook, 233.
+Wood Duck as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+Woodland beds and bedding, 249.
+Wounds, ointment for, 255.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks
+of Trapping and Trap Making, by William Hamilton Gibson
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of
+Trapping and Trap Making, by William Hamilton Gibson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net
+
+
+Title: Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making
+
+Author: William Hamilton Gibson
+
+Release Date: November 18, 2005 [EBook #17093]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert J. Hall
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS
+
+AND THE
+
+TRICKS OF TRAPPING
+
+AND
+
+TRAP MAKING
+
+
+CONTAINING
+
+COMPREHENSIVE HINTS ON CAMP SHELTER, LOG HUTS, BARK SHANTIES, WOODLAND
+BEDS AND BEDDING, BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, AND VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS
+ON TRAPPERS' FOOD, ETC. WITH EXTENDED CHAPTERS ON THE TRAPPER'S
+ART, CONTAINING ALL THE "TRICKS" AND VALUABLE BAIT RECIPES OF THE
+PROFESSION; FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE USE OF THE STEEL TRAP, AND
+FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF TRAPS OF ALL KINDS; DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS
+FOR THE CAPTURE OF ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS; VALUABLE RECIPES FOR
+THE CURING AND TANNING OF FUR SKINS, ETC., ETC.
+
+
+BY W. HAMILTON GIBSON
+
+AUTHOR OF "PASTORAL DAYS"
+
+
+_ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR_
+
+
+
+
+[Page 1]
+TO MY BELOVED FRIENDS
+
+MR. AND MRS. F. W. GUNN,
+
+KIND INSTRUCTORS, AND PARTICIPANTS
+
+IN THE
+
+BRIGHTEST JOYS OF MY YOUTH,
+
+THIS BOOK IS
+
+AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY
+
+THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 3]
+[Illustration]
+
+PREFACE
+
+[Illustration: O]f all the various subjects in the catalogue of sports
+and pastimes, there is none more sure of arousing the enthusiasm of
+our American boys generally, than that which forms the title of
+this book. Traps and Trapping, together with its kindred branches,
+always have been and always _will_ be subjects of great interest
+among boys, and particularly so to those who live in the country.
+
+It is a fact to be regretted that we have so few examples of "Boys'
+Books" published in this country. There are a few English works
+of this character, that are very excellent as far as they go, but
+are nevertheless incomplete and unsatisfactory to the wants of
+American boys, dwelling largely on sports which are essentially
+English, and merely touching upon or utterly excluding _other_
+topics which are of the _utmost_ interest to boys of this country.
+In no one of these books, so far as the author of the present volume
+knows, is the subject of Traps considered to any fair extent, and
+those examples which are given, represent only the most common
+and universal varieties already known to the general public.
+
+[Page 4]
+With these facts in mind, the author has entered with zealous enthusiasm
+upon the preparation of a work which shall fill this odd and neglected
+corner in literature, and judging from the reminiscences of his
+own boyish experiences, he feels certain that in placing such a
+volume within reach of the public, he supplies a long felt want
+in the hearts of his boy-friends throughout the land.
+
+Far be it from us in the publication of this volume, to be understood
+as encouraging the wanton destruction of poor innocent animals. Like
+all kindred sports, hunting and fishing for example, the sport of
+Trapping may be perverted and carried to a point where it becomes
+simple cruelty, as is _always_ the case when pursued for the mere
+_excitement_ it brings. If the poor victims are to serve no use
+after their capture, either as food, or in the furnishing of their
+plumage or skins for useful purposes, the sport becomes heartless
+cruelty, and we do not wish to be understood as encouraging it
+under any such circumstances. In its _right_ sense trapping is
+a delightful, healthful, and legitimate sport, and we commend it
+to all our boy-readers.
+
+It shall be the object of the author to produce a thoroughly _practical_
+volume, presenting as far as possible such examples of the trap
+kind as any boy, with a moderate degree of ingenuity, could easily
+construct, and furthermore to illustrate each variety with the
+utmost plainness, supplemented with the most detailed description.
+
+With the exception of all "clap-trap," our volume will embrace
+nearly every known example of the various devices used for the
+capture of Bird, Beast, or Fowl, in all countries, simplifying such
+as are impracticable on account of their complicated structure,
+and modifying others to the peculiar adaptation of the American
+Trapper.
+
+Devices, which inflict cruelty and prolonged suffering, shall,
+as far as possible, be excluded, as this is not a necessary
+qualification in any trap, and should be guarded against wherever
+possible. Following out the suggestion conveyed under the
+[Page 5]
+title of "The Trapper," we shall present full and ample directions
+for baiting traps, selections of ground for setting, and other
+hints concerning the trapping of all our principal game and wild
+animals, valuable either as food or for their fur. In short, our
+book shall form a complete trapper's guide, embracing all necessary
+information on the subject, anticipating every want, and furnishing
+the most complete and fully illustrated volume on this subject
+ever presented to the public. In vain did the author of this work,
+in his younger days, search the book stores and libraries in the
+hopes of finding such a book, and many are the traps and snares
+which necessity forced him to invent and construct for himself, for
+want of just such a volume. Several of these original inventions
+will appear in the present work for the first time in book form,
+and the author can vouch for their excellence, and he might almost
+say, their infallibility, for in their perfect state he has never
+yet found them to "miss" in a single instance.
+
+As the writer's mind wanders back to his boyish days, there is
+one autumn in particular which shines out above all the rest; and
+that was when his traps were first set and were the chief source
+of his enjoyment. The adventurous excitement which sped him on in
+those daily tramps through the woods, and the buoyant, exhilarating
+effect of the exercise can be realized only by those who have had the
+same experience. The hope of success, the fears of disappointment,
+the continual suspense and wonder which fill the mind of the young
+trapper, all combine to invest this sport with a charm known to no
+other. Trapping does not consist merely in the manufacture and setting
+of the various traps. The study of the habits and peculiarities of
+the different game--here becomes a matter of great importance;
+and the study of natural history under these circumstances affords
+a continual source of pleasure and profit.
+
+Among the most useful, although the most cruel, of inventions used
+by the professional trapper are the steel traps; so much so that
+the author would gladly omit them. But as they are of such unfailing
+[Page 6]
+action, of such universal efficacy, and in many cases are the only
+ones that can be used, any book on trapping would certainly be
+incomplete without them. The scope of our volume not only embraces
+the arts of trapping and trap-making, but extends further into the
+subject of the wild life of a trapping campaign,--containing full
+directions for building log cabins, and shanties; boats and canoes;
+hints on food and cooking utensils; also full directions for the
+curing and tanning of fur skins,--in short, a complete repository of
+all useful information pertaining to the life and wants of a
+professional trapper.
+
+In the preparation of the work no pains have been spared to insure
+clearness in general directions, and every point which would be
+likely to puzzle the reader has been specially covered by separate
+illustration. In this particular it stands unique in the list of
+boys' books. Every difficulty has been anticipated, and in every
+instance the illustrations will be found thoroughly comprehensive
+and complete. That the care and thoroughness which has been displayed
+throughout the work, and to which its pages will bear witness,
+may meet with the appreciation and enthusiastic approval of every
+boy-reader throughout the land, is the most earnest hope of
+
+THE AUTHOR.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page iii]
+[Illustration: CONTENTS]
+
+BOOK I.
+
+TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.
+
+Introduction.--THE DEAD FALL.--Honey as Bait for Bears.--THE GUN
+TRAP.--Peculiar Habits of the Puma.--"Baiting" for the Puma.--Caution
+required in Setting the Gun Trap.--Several Guns used.--Different
+Modes of Setting.--Various animals to which the Gun Trap is
+adapted.--THE BOW TRAP.--Vane and Barb for Arrows.--Best Wood for
+Bow.--A Second Example of Bow Trap.--Arrows Barbed and Poisoned.--THE
+DOWN FALL; or Hippopotamus Trap.--The terrible Harpoon used by
+the African Trapper.--Different Modes of Setting the Down
+Fall.--Modification of the Down Fall for small animals.--THE BEAR
+TRAP.--Various Methods of Setting.--Honey as Bait for Bear.--Bait
+for Puma.--THE PITFALL.--Use of the Trap in Asia as a means of
+defence against the Tiger.--Disposition of the Bait.--Wonderful
+agility of the Puma.--Niceties required in the construction of
+the Pitfall.--THE LOG COOP TRAP.--Various animals for which it
+is adapted.--Different Modes of Setting.--THE CORRALL OR HOPO of
+Africa.--Its Construction and Appalling Effects.--THE NET TRAP.--Its
+Use in the Capture of the Lion and the Tiger.--American animals to
+which it may be adapted.--Two Methods of Setting.--BIRD LIME.--Its
+Use for the Capture of the Lion and Tiger.
+
+[Page iv]
+BOOK II.
+
+SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS.
+
+General Remarks.--Requisite Materials for Snaring.--THE QUAIL
+SNARE.--"Sucker Wire" Nooses.--Six Quail caught at a time.--HOOP
+NOOSES.--HORSE HAIR NOOSES.--HEDGE NOOSES.--Peculiarities of the
+Grouse.--Selection of Ground.--THE TRIANGLE TREE SNARE.--A Hawk
+captured by the device.--The Wire Noose, as arranged for the capture
+of the Woodchuck, Muskrat, and House Rat.--THE TWITCH-UP.--Selection
+of Ground for Setting.--Various Modes of Constructing the Traps.--THE
+POACHERS' SNARE.--Its portability.--THE PORTABLE SNARE.--Its Peculiar
+Advantages.--The "Simplest" Snare.--The valuable principle on which
+it is Constructed.--Its Portability.--Various Adaptations of the
+Principle.--THE QUAIL SNARE.--Its ample capabilities of
+Capture.--Peculiarities of the Quail.--Successful Baits.--THE BOX
+SNARE.--Modification in a very small scale.--THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.--The
+Animals for which it is Adapted.--GROUND SNARES.--THE OLD-FASHIONED
+SPINGLE.--THE IMPROVED SPINGLE.--Objections to Ground Snares.--THE
+FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.--THE PLATFORM SNARE.
+
+BOOK III.
+
+TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.
+
+THE SIEVE TRAP.--THE BRICK TRAP.--THE COOP TRAP--Improved Method
+of Setting.--Defects of the old style.--THE BAT FOWLING NET.--Its
+Use in England.--How the Dark Lantern is Used by Bird Catchers.--THE
+CLAP NET.--Its Extensive Use in Foreign Countries.--Decoy Birds.--The
+"Bird Whistle" used in place of decoy.--Wonderful Skill attained in
+the Use of the Bird Whistle.--Selection of Trapping Ground.--THE
+BIRD WHISTLE Described.--Its Use and Marvelous Capabilities.--THE
+WILD GOOSE TRAP.--Its Extensive Use in the Northern Cold Regions
+for the Capture of the Goose and Ptarmigan.--Tame Goose Used as
+Decoys.--Gravel as Bait.--THE TRAP CAGE.--A Favorite Trap among
+Bird Catchers.--Call Birds.--THE SPRING NET TRAP.--Rubber Elastic
+as Spring Power.--A SIMPLER NET TRAP.--Common Faults in many Bird
+Traps.--Complicated Construction as Unnecessary Feature.--Requisites
+of a good Bird Trap.--Hints on Simple Mechanism.--Different Modes
+of Constructing Hinge.--Hoop Iron Used as Spring Power.--Manner
+of Tempering Spring.--THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.--A Second Method of
+Constructing Platform.--THE BOX OWL TRAP.--Ventilation a Desirable
+Feature in all Box Traps.--Tin Catch for Securing Cover in
+Place.--Peculiar Mode of Baiting for Birds.--Modification of
+Perch.--Baiting for the Owl.--Locality for Setting.--The Owl in
+Captivity.--Its Food.--Hints on the Care of the Bird.--THE BOX
+BIRD TRAP.--Cigar Box Used as a Trap.--THE PENDANT BOX
+TRAP.--Ventilation.--Simple Mechanism.--Care in Construction of
+Bearings.--THE HAWK TRAP.--A "Yankee" Invention.--Stiff-Pointed
+Wires Effectually Use in the Capture of the Hawk.--Owl also Captured
+by the Same Device.--THE WILD DUCK NET.--Its Use in Chesapeake
+Bay.--Manner of Constructing the Net.--Decoy Ducks.--Bait for the
+Ducks.--THE HOOK TRAP.--Its cruel Mode of Capture.--Peculiar Bait
+for Ducks.--THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.--Its Successful Use in the Capture
+of the Crow.--Shrewdness of the Crow.--Strange antics of a Crow when
+Captured in the Trap.--Bird Lime the Secret of its Success.--Wonderful
+Tenacity of the Cap.--Different Modes of Setting.--BIRD LIME
+Described.--Its astonishing "Sticky" Qualities.--The Bird Lime
+of the Trade.--Various "Home-Made" Recipes.--Manner of Using Bird
+Lime.--Limed Twigs.--The Owl Used as a Decoy in connection with
+Bird Lime.--Bird Lime used in the Capture of the Humming Bird.--A
+Flower Converted into a Trap.--Masticated Wheat as Bird Lime.--Its
+Ready Removal from the Feathers.--Delicate Organization of the
+Humming Bird.--Killed by Fright.--Use of its Plumage.--Snares for the
+Humming Bird.--Blow Guns Successfully Used for its Capture.--Killed
+by Concussion.--Disabled by a Stream of Water.
+
+[Page v]
+BOOK IV.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.
+
+THE COMMON BOX TRAP.--Two Modes of Setting.--Animals for which it
+is Adapted.--A Modification of the Trap.--ANOTHER BOX TRAP.--THE
+FIGURE FOUR TRAP.--Its Advantages.--THE DOUBLE ENDER.--A Favorite
+Trap in New England.--Simplicity of Construction.--The Rabbit's
+Fondness for Salt.--Its Use as a Bait.--THE SELF SETTING TRAP.--Animals
+for which it is adapted.--THE DEAD FALL.--Various Methods of
+Construction.--Animals for which it is usually Set.--Remarkable
+Cunning of some Animals.--The Precautions which it Necessitates.--Bait
+for the Muskrat.--Various Baits for the Mink.--Skunk Baits.--A Fox
+Entrapped by a Dead Fall.--Slight Modification in the Arrangement
+of Pieces.--Live Duck used as Bait.--Another Arrangement for the
+Dead Fall.--Trap Sprung by the Foot of the Animal.--THE FIGURE FOUR
+TRAP.--Applied to the Dead Fall.--THE GAROTTE.--Its Singular Mode
+of Capture.--Its Common Victims.--THE BOW TRAP.--An oddity of the
+Trap Kind.--Its Singular mechanism.--THE MOLE TRAP.--A Much-needed
+Contrivance.--Subterranean Mode of Setting.--Its Unfailing Success.--A
+FISH TRAP.--A Section of Stove Pipe used as a Trap.--Its Various
+Victims.--Adjustment of the Bait.--Curious Mode of Capture.
+
+BOOK V.
+
+HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.
+
+A Chapter Dedicated to Pestered Housekeepers.--The Domestic Cat
+as a Household Trap.--The Rat.--Its Proverbial Shrewdness and
+Cunning.--THE BARREL TRAP.--Its unlimited Capabilities of Capture--Other
+Advantages.--"Baiting" for Rats.--A Second Form of Barrel Trap.--Various
+other Devices adapted to the capture of the Rat.--The Steel Trap.--Hints
+on Setting.--Necessary Precautions.--THE BOX DEAD FALL.--THE BOARD
+FLAP.--THE BOX PIT FALL.--Animals for which it may be set.--Its
+Extensive Capabilities of Capture.--Its Self-Setting Qualities.--The
+principle Utilized for the Capture of the Muskrat.--THE CAGE TRAP.--THE
+JAR TRAP.--A Preserve Jar Converted into a Mouse Trap.--Its Complete
+Success.--BOWL TRAPS.--Two Methods.--FLY PAPER.--Recipe for Making.--FLY
+TRAP.
+
+BOOK VI.
+
+STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.
+
+General Remarks.--Advantages of the Steel Trap.--Its extensive use in
+the business of Trapping.--Hints on the Selection of Traps.--REQUISITES
+OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.--The Newhouse Trap.--Various sizes.--Rat
+Trap.--Muskrat Trap.--Mink Trap.--Fox Trap.--Otter Trap.--Beaver
+Trap.--"Great Bear Tamer."--SSmall Bear Trap.--HINTS ON BAITING
+THE STEEL TRAP.--The Staked Pen.--Old Method of Baiting.--Its
+Objections.--Advantages of the New Method.--THE SPRING POLE.--Its
+Service to the Trapper.--THE SLIDING POLE.--Advantages of its Use
+in the Capture of Aquatic Animals.--THE CLOG.--Objections against
+Securing the Steel Trap to a Stake.--Method of Attaching the Clog.--THE
+GRAPPLING IRON.--THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING.--Best condition for Furs.--THE
+ART OF TRAPPING.--Antiquity of the Sport.--Necessary Qualifications
+for Successful Trapping.--The Study of Natural History a source
+of pleasure and profit.--The Professional Trapper's most serious
+[Page vi]
+Obstacles.--Marvellous Cunning of many Animals.--Necessity of the
+Study of their Habits.--"Practical Natural History."--Trapping Without
+Bait.--Run-ways or By-paths.--How Utilized by the Trapper.--How
+Detected.--Favorable Localities for the Setting of the Steel
+Trap.--Natural Advantages.--Entrapping animals through their Sense
+of Smell.--Remarkable Power of Scent Baits.--Their great value
+in the Capture of the Beaver.--Caution in Handling the Steel
+Trap.--Effect of the Touch of the Hand.--Buckskin Gloves a Necessary
+Requisite.--MEDICINES, OR SCENT BAITS.--Their Great Importance in the
+Art of Trapping.--CASTOREUM OR BARKSTONE.--How Obtained.--Castoreum
+Composition.--Recipe for Making.--How Used.--MUSK--ASSAFOETIDA.--OIL
+OF RHODIUM.--FISH OIL.--Its General Use in the Capture of Aquatic
+Animals.--Valuable Recipe for its Manufacture.--OIL OF SKUNK.--How
+Obtained.--How Eradicated from Hands or Clothing.--OIL OF AMBER.--OIL
+OF AMBERGRIS.--OIL OF ANISE.--Its General Use as a "Universal
+Medicine."--SWEET FENNEL.--CUMMIN--FENUGREEK--LAVENDER--COMPOUND
+MEDICINE--THE TRAIL--Its Object and Value.--Various Modes of
+Making.--HOW TO TRAP.--General Remarks.--THE FOX.--Its Scientific
+Classification.--The Various American Species.--The Red Fox.--The
+Cross Fox.--Why so Named.--The Black or Silver Fox.--The Great
+Value of its Fur.--The Prairie Fox.--The Kit or Swift Fox.--The
+Gray Fox.--Similarity in the General Characteristics of the Various
+Species.--Food of the Fox.--Its Home.--Its consummate Craft.--Instances
+of its Cunning.--Baffling the Hounds.--How to Trap the Fox.--Preparation
+of the Trap.--Adverse Effect of Human Scent.--Necessity of handling Trap
+with Gloves.--The "Bed."--"Baiting" the Bed Necessary.--Precautions in
+Setting the Trap.--The "Tricks of the Trapper" Illustrated.--How to
+Proceed in case of Non-Success.--The Scent-Baits Utilized.--Various
+Modes of Setting the Trap.--The Baits Commonly Used.--The Dead Fall
+as a Means of Capture.--Common Mode of Skinning the Fox.--Directions
+for Stretching Skin.--THE WOLF.--The Various Species.--Fierce
+Characteristics of the Wolf.--Its Terrible Inroads among Herds and
+Flocks.--The Gray Wolf.--The Coyote or Common Prairie Wolf.--The
+Texan Wolf.--Home of the Wolf.--Number of Young.--Cunning of the
+Wolf.--Caution Required in Trapping.--How to Trap the Wolf.--Preparation
+of Trap.--Various Ways of Setting the Trap.--Use of the Trail and
+Scent Baits.--"Playing Possum."--The Dead Fall and "Twitch-up"
+as Wolf Traps.--Directions for Skinning the Wolf and Stretching
+the Pelt.--THE PUMA.--Its Scientific Classification.--Its Life
+and Habits.--Its Wonderful Agility.--Its Skill as an Angler.--Its
+Stealth.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Puma.--The Gun
+Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Dead Fall.--Trap for Taking the Animal
+Alive.--Log Coop Trap.--The Pit Fall.--Bait for the Puma.--The Steel
+Trap.--Common Mode of Setting.--Selection of Locality for Trapping.--How
+to Skin the Puma.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE CANADA
+LYNX.--Description of the Animal.--Its Life and Habits.--Its Food.--Its
+Peculiar Appearance when Running.--Easily Killed.--The Dead Fall as
+a Lynx Trap.--Peculiar Manner of Construction for the Purpose.--The
+Gun Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Twitch-up.--Young of the Lynx.--Value
+of its Fur.--The Steel Trap.--Various Methods of Setting.--Directions
+for Skinning the Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE WILD CAT.--Its
+Resemblance to the Domestic Species.--Its Strange Appetite.--Its
+Home.--Number of Young.--Haunts of the Wild Cat.--Its Nocturnal
+Marauding expeditions.--Its Lack of Cunning.--How to Trap the Wild
+Cat.--An Entire Colony Captured.--Ferocity of the Wild Cat.--The
+Twitch-up.--Its Common Use in the Capture of the Wild Cat.--Other
+Successful Traps.--Various Baits for the Wild Cat.--Directions
+for Skinning the Animal, and Stretching the Pelt.--THE BEAR.--The
+Various American Species.--The Grizzly.--Its Enormous Size and
+Power.--Its Terrible Fury.--Description of the Animal.--Food of the
+Grizzly.--The Black Bear or Musquaw.--Its General Description.--Bear
+Hunting.--Danger of the Sport.--Food of the Bear.--Its Fondness for
+Pigs.--Honey Its Special Delight.--The Cubs.--The Flesh of the
+Bear as Food.--"Bears' Grease."--Hibernation of the Bear.--Traps
+for the Bear.--The Dead
+[Page vii]
+Fall.--Pit-fall.--Giant Coop.--Gun Trap.--The Steel Trap.--The
+Clog and Grappling-Iron.--Their Advantages.--How to Trap the
+Bear.--Various Methods of Adjusting Traps.--Natural Advantages.--Honey
+as Bait.--Other Baits.--Scent Baits.--Skinning the Bear.--Directions
+for Stretching the Pelt.--THE RACCOON.--Classification--Cunning
+and Stealth of the Animal.--Characteristic Features.--The "Coon
+Chase."--How the Raccoon is Hunted.--The "Tree'd Coon."--Varied
+Accomplishments of the Raccoon.--Its Home and Family.--The "Coon"
+as a Pet.--Its Cunning Ways.--Its Extensive Bill of Fare.--Life and
+Habits of the Raccoon.--Remarkable Imprint of its Paw.--Season for
+Trapping the Coon.--How to Trap the Coon.--Various Modes of Setting
+the Trap.--Use of the "medicines" or "Scent Baits."--Other Traps for
+the Animal.--Directions for Removing the Skin, and Stretching the
+Pelt.--THE BADGER.--Its Peculiar Markings.--Use of the Hair.--Nest of
+the Badger.--Number of Young.--Food of the Animal.--Its Remarkable
+Fondness for Honey.--Its Cunning.--Remarkable Instincts.--Its
+Shrewdness.--How to Trap the Badger.--Various Baits.--Use of
+"Medicine."--Capture of the Animal by Flooding its Burrow.--How
+to Skin the Badger.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE
+BEAVER.--Description of the Animal.--Its Nature and Habits.--The
+Beaver Village.--The "Lodges," or Beaver Houses.--Remarkable
+Construction of the Huts.--The Dam of the Beaver.--Wonderful Skill
+shown in its Construction.--Nocturnal Habits of the Beaver.--Remarkable
+Engineering Instincts of the Animal.--How the Beaver Cuts Timber.--How
+the Dam is Constructed.--The Formation of "Reefs."--The Tail of
+the Beaver as a Means of Transportation.--Subterranean Passage
+to the Huts.--How Beavers are Hunted.--Young of the Beaver.--How
+to Trap the Beaver.--The Necessary Precautions.--Castoreum or Bark
+Stone.--Its Great Value in the Capture of the Beaver.--Various
+Methods of Setting the Trap.--How to Apply the Castoreum.--Use of
+the Sliding Pole.--Food of the Beaver.--Directions for Skinning the
+Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE MUSK-RAT.--General Description
+of the Animal.--Its Beaver-like Huts.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its
+Food.--The Flesh of the Musk-rat as an Article of Diet.--Description
+of the Hut.--Extensive Family of the Musk-Rat.--Its Home.--How the
+Musk-Rat swims beneath Unbroken Ice.--How it is Killed by being
+Driven Away from its Breath.--Spearing the Musk-Rat.--Construction
+of the Spear.--How to Trap the Musk-Rat.--Use of the Sliding
+Pole.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The Spring Pole.--Scent
+Baits.--Various Devices for Capturing the Musk-Rat.--The
+Barrel-Trap.--Remarkable Success of the Trap.--The Trail.--Skinning
+the Musk-Rat.--How to Stretch the Pelt.--THE OTTER.--Description
+of the Animal.--Beauty of its Fur.--How the "Otter Fur" of Fashion
+is Prepared.--Food of the Otter.--Its Natural Endowments for
+Swimming.--Habitation of the Otter.--Its Nest and Young.--The Track
+or "Seal" of the animal.--How the Otter is Hunted.--Its Fierceness
+when Attacked.--The Otter as a Pet.--Fishing for its Master.--The
+Otter "Slide."--How Utilized by the Trapper.--Playfulness of the
+Otter.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The
+Sliding Pole.--The Spring Pole.--Scent Baits.--How Applied.--Necessary
+Precautions.--How to Skin the Otter.--Directions for Stretching the
+Pelt.--THE MINK.--Its Form and Color.--Value of the Fur.--Habits
+of the Animal.--Its Diet.--Its Perpetual Greed.--Ease with which it
+may be Trapped.--Habitation of the Mink.--Its Nest and Young.--How
+to Trap the Mink.--Various Methods of Setting the Trap.--Baits.--The
+Sliding Pole.--"Medicine."--The Runways of the Mink.--How Utilized
+in Trapping.--The Trail.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the
+Mink.--How to Skin the Animal.--THE PINE MARTEN.--Description of
+the Animal.--Its Natural Characteristics.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its
+Wonderful Stealth and Activity.--Its "Bill of Fare."--Its Strange mode
+of Seizing Prey.--The Marten as a Pet.--Its Agreeable Odor.--Various
+Traps Used in the Capture of the Marten.--Baits for the Marten.--The
+Steel Trap.--Several Modes of Setting.--Directions for Skinning
+the Animal.--THE FISHER.--Its Form and Color.--Its Habitation and
+Young.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Methods.--The Spring
+Pole.--Baits for the Fisher.--Principal Devices Used in its
+Capture.--The Skin.--How
+[Page viii]
+Removed and Stretched.--THE SKUNK.--Its Fetid Stench.--Origin of
+the Odor.--Its Effect on Man and Beast.--"Premonitory Symptoms"
+of Attack.--Acrid Qualities of the Secretion.--Its Terrible Effect
+on the Eyes.--Interesting Adventure with a Skunk.--"Appearances are
+often Deceitful."--The Skunk as a Pet.--Color of the Animal.--Habits
+of the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Young.--"Alaska Sable."--How to
+Trap the Skunk.--Various Traps Used.--The Steel Trap.--Different
+Modes of Setting.--Baits.--The Dead Fall.--Modifications in its
+Construction.--The Twitch-up.--Its Peculiar Advantages for the
+Capture of the Skunk.--Chloride of Lime as Antidote.--Method of
+Eradicating the Odor from the Clothing.--Directions for Removing and
+Stretching the Skin.--THE WOLVERINE.--Its Desperate Fierceness and
+voracity.--Its General Characteristics.--Its Form and Color.--Food
+of the Wolverine.--Its Trap-Robbing Propensities.--How to Trap the
+Wolverine.--Baits.--Use of the "Medicine."--The Gun Trap and Dead
+Fall.--The Steel Trap.--Various Modes of Setting.--Home and Young
+of the Animal.--How the Skin should be Removed and Stretched.--THE
+OPOSSUM.--Description of the Animal.--Its Nature and Habits.--Its
+Home.--Remarkable Mode of Carrying its Young.--Nocturnal Habits of
+the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Especial Fondness for Persimmons.--Its
+Remarkable Tenacity as a Climber.--"Playing Possum."--How the Opossum
+is Hunted.--How Trapped.--Various Devices Used in its Capture.--Scent
+Baits.--How the Skin is Removed and Stretched.--THE RABBIT.--Wide-spread
+Distribution of the Various Species.--Their Remarkable Powers of
+Speed.--Nest of the Rabbit.--Its Prolific Offspring.--Food of the
+Rabbit.--Its Enemies.--Various Devices Used in Trapping the
+Animal.--Necessary Precautions in Skinning the Rabbit.--THE
+WOODCHUCK.--Description of the Animal.--Its Habits.--Its Burrows.--Its
+Food.--Toughness of the Skin.--Its Use.--Nest of the Animal.--The
+Woodchuck as Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--The Steel Trap.--The
+Spring Pole.--The Twitch-up.--How the Woodchuck is "Drowned Out."--The
+Turtle as a Ferret.--Smoking the Burrows.--Directions for Skinning
+the Animal.--THE GOPHER.--Its Burrows.--Its Food.--Remarkable Cheek
+Pouches of the Animal.--Their Use.--How to Trap the Animal.--How
+the Skin is Removed.--THE MOLE.--Its Varied Accomplishments.--Its
+Remarkable Dwellings.--Complicated Structure of the Habitation.--The
+Fury and Voracity of the Mole.--Peculiarities of Its Fur.--A Waistcoat
+of Mole Skins.--Odor of the Mole.--Mole Traps.--Various Species of the
+Mole.--The Mole of the Cape of Good Hope.--Marvellous Beauty of Its
+Fur.--SQUIRRELS.--Their General Peculiarities of Form and Habit.--Their
+Food.--Their Provident Instincts.--"Nutting" in Midwinter.--The
+Nest of the Squirrel.--Burrowing Squirrels.--The Various American
+Species.--The Grey Squirrel.--The Chipmunk.--The Chickaree.--The
+Flying Squirrel, &c.--How Squirrels are Trapped.--Various Traps
+Used in their Capture.--Removal of Skin.--THE DEER.--Difficulty
+of Hunting the Animal in Dry Seasons.--Various American Species
+of the Deer.--How the Deer is Trapped.--Peculiar Construction of
+the Trap.--Scent Bait for the Deer.--Various Methods of Setting
+the Trap.--Violence of the Deer when Trapped.--The Clog.--Dead
+Falls.--Food of the Deer.--Deer "Yards."--Natural Enemies of the
+Deer.--How the Deer is Hunted.--"Still Hunting."--The Deer's Acute
+Sense of Smell.--How to Detect the Direction of the Wind.--Natural
+Habits of the Deer.--"Night Hunting."--Luminosity of the Eyes of the
+Deer at Night.--Hunting the deer with dogs.--"Deer Licks."--How Salt
+is used in Hunting the Deer.--Hunting from a Scaffolding.--Peculiar
+Sight of the Deer.--"Salt Licks" used in Night Hunting.--Head
+Lantern.--How made.--How used.--The fiery Eyes of the Deer.--"Fox
+Fire" or Phosphorescent wood.--How used by the Hunter.--Seasons
+for Deer Hunting.--How to skin the Deer.--THE MOOSE.--Description
+of the animal.--Immense size of its Horns.--Moose yards.--Hunted
+on Snow shoes.--The dangers of Moose Hunting.--Exquisite sense of
+Smell.--How the Moose is Trapped.--Directions for removing the
+Skin of the Animal.--ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.--Description of the
+Animal.--Its enormous Horns.--Habits of the creature.--Its flesh as
+Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--THE BUFFALO.--Its Habits.--Its
+Food.--Buffalo-grass.--How the Animal is Hunted and Trapped.--Buffalo
+[Page ix]
+flesh as Food.--Buffalo skins.--THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE.--Description
+of the Animal.--Peculiarity of Horn.--How the creature is Hunted
+and Destroyed by the Indians.--Remarkable sense of Smell of the
+Animal.--Its Beauty and grace.--Flesh of the Antelope a Food.--How
+the Animal is Trapped.--Various Traps used in their Capture.--The
+Dead-fall.--Pit-fall.--How to remove the Hide of the Animal.--SHOOTING
+AND POISONING.--"Shot furs."--"Poisoned furs."--"Trapped furs."--Their
+relative Value in the Fur Market.--Effect of grazing shot on
+fur.--Effect of Poison on Fur.--Remarks on the use of
+Poison.--Strychnine.--Poisoning Wolves.--Recipe for mixing the
+Poison.--Poisoning the Bear.--How the Dose is Prepared.
+
+BOOK VII.
+
+CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS.
+
+Introductory Remarks.--"Amateur Trapping."--PLAN OF CAMPAIGN.--Selection
+of Trapping-ground.--Advantages of a Watered District.--Labor of
+transportation lightened by Boating.--Lakes, Ponds and Streams.--The
+Adirondacks and Alleghanies.--Remarks on the "Home Shanty."--Selection
+of Site for building.--Value of a good Axe.--Remarks on the Bark
+Shanty.--Its value in case of Storms.--Wise fore-sight.--Remarks on
+the Indian Birch-bark Canoe.--Dug-out and Bateau.--Commencement of
+Trapping Season.--Advantages of preliminary preparation.--Extensive
+route of the Professional Trapper.--Sixty pounds of Personal
+Luggage.--How the traps and provisions are distributed among the
+Trapping lines.--Use of the "Home Shanty."--"Keeping Shanty."--Necessity
+of its being Guarded.--Wolves and Bears as thieves.--Steel Traps
+considered.--Number used in a Professional Campaign.--Number for
+an Amateur Campaign.--Their Probable Cost.--The average size of
+Trap.--Dead-falls, Twitchups, &c., considered.--Requisite Tools for
+a Campaign.--A "House-wife" a valuable necessity.--"Cleanliness next
+to Godliness."--The Trappers' Light.--Comparative value of Lanterns
+and Candles.--The Trappers' Personal outfit.--The jack-knife.--The
+Pocket-Compass.--Necessity of preparing for Emergencies.--Shot
+guns and Rifles.--Both combined in the same weapon.--Oil for Fire
+Arms.--Fat of the Grouse Used on Fire Arms.--Fishing tackle.--The
+Trappers' portable stove.--The Stove versus The Open Fire.--The
+Trapper's Clothing.--The Material and Color.--Boots.--High-topped
+Boots.--Short Boots.--Their Relative Qualities.--Waterproof Boot
+Dressing.--Recipe.--The Trapping Season.--Hints on Trapping-lines.--The
+"Wheel" plan.--Mode of following the lines.--"Trap Robbers" or
+"Poachers."--How to guard against them.--Hiding furs.--How to store
+Traps from Season to Season.--Gnats and Mosquitoes.--The "Smudge."--How
+made.--FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS.--"Roughing it."--"A chance Chip
+for a Frying Pan."--A "happy medium" between two extremes.--Cosy
+and Comfortable living on a Campaign.--Portable Food.--Combined
+Nutriment and lightness in weight to be desired.--The Trappers'
+Culinary Outfit.--Indian meal as Food.--The Trappers' "Staff of
+Life."--Wheat flour.--Salt Pork.--Seasoning.--Pork Fritters a
+luxury.--Cooking Utensils.--The "Telescope" drinking cup.--Recipe
+for making Pork Fritters.--"Chop Sticks" a la "Chinee."--A Flat
+Chip as a Plate.--Boiled Mush.--Old "Stand by."--Recipe.--Fried
+Mush.--Indian meal Cakes.--Recipe.--Johnny Cake.--Recipe.--Hoe
+Cakes.--Recipe.--Fresh fish.--How to Cook fish in a most Delicious
+manner.--Prof. Blot, and Delmonico, out-done.--The "NE PLUS ULTRA" of
+delicacies.--All the sweet Juices of the Fish preserved.--Disadvantages
+of the ordinary method of cooking.--Partridge, Duck, Quail, Cooked
+deliciously.--Roasting unrivalled!--Hints on Broiling.--An extemporized
+Spider or Toaster.--Roasting on a spit.--Venison, Bear, and Moose Meat
+broiled in the best style.--Venison cutlets.--The Camp fire.--Usual mode
+[Page x]
+of building Fire.--How the Kettle is suspended.--"Luxuries"
+considered.--The Knapsack a desirable Acquisition.--Matches.--The Bottle
+Match-safe.--Waterproof Matches.--How made.--Lucifer Matches.--Recipe
+for Waterproof preparation.--The Pocket Sun Glass.--A necessary adjunct
+to a Trapper's Outfit.--Its Advantages in case of Emergency.--"Touch
+wood" or "Punk Tinder," valuable in lighting fires.--How to light Fires
+without matches or Sun glass.--How to light a fire without Matches,
+Sun Glass, Powder, or Percussion Caps.--A last Resort.--Matches best
+in the long run.--The Portable Camp Stove described.--Its accompanying
+Furniture.--The Combination Camp-knife.--Hint on Provisions.--Potatoes
+as food.--Beans.--"Self raising" Wheat flour.--Light Bread, Biscuit
+and Pancakes in Camp.--Various accessories.--Olive Oil for purpose
+of Frying.--Pork.--Indian meal.--Crackers.--Wheaten Grits.--Rice and
+Oatmeal.--Tea and Coffee.--Soups.--Liebig's Extract of Beef.--Canned
+Vegetables.--Lemonade.--Waterproof bags for provisions.--Painted
+bags.--Caution!--Waterproof preparation.--Air-tight jars for
+Butter.--Knapsack or Shoulder Basket.--Venison as food.--To preserve
+the overplus of meat.--"Jerked Venison" Recipe and Process.--Moose
+and Bear meat and Fish, similarly prepared.--How to protect provisions
+from Wolves.--The Moufflon and Prong-horn as food.--"Small game,"
+Squirrels, Rabbits, and Woodchucks.--"Skunk Meat" as a delicacy.--The
+Buffalo as food.--Grouse, the universal Food of Trappers and
+Hunters.--Various species of Grouse.--The Sage Cock.--The
+Ptarmigan.--How they are trapped by the Indians in the Hudson's
+Bay Country.--Waterfowl.--Sea and Inland Ducks.--Various species of
+Duck.--Mallard.--Muscovy.--Wigeon.--Merganser.--Canvass Back.--Teal,
+&c.--Wild Geese.--Fish as food.--Angling and Spearing.--Salmon
+Spearing in the North.--Description of the Salmon Spear used by
+the Indians.--Salmon Spearing at night.--Requisites of a good
+Spearsman.--Fishing through the Ice.--Cow's udder and Hogs liver as
+Bait.--Other Baits.--Assafoetida and Sweet Cicely as fish Baits.--Trout
+fishing with Tip-up's.--Pickerel fishing in Winter.--Pickerel Spearing
+through the Ice.--The Box Hut.--The "Fish Lantern" or Fish Trap.--Fish
+Attracted by light.--Light as Bait.--How the Fish Lantern is made and
+used.--THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.--Introductory remarks.--The Perils of
+a Life in the Wilderness.--A Shelter of some form a Necessity.--The
+Log Shanty.--Full directions for building.--Ingenious manner of
+constructing roof.--How the Chimney is built.--Spacious interior of
+the Shanty.--THE BARK SHANTY.--A Temporary structure.--Full directions
+for its construction.--Selection of building site.--TENTS.--Advantages
+of their use.--Various kinds of Tents.--The House Tent.--The Fly
+Tent.--The Shelter Tent.--Directions for making the Tent.--Tent
+Cloth.--How to render tents Water and Fire-resistant.--Valuable
+recipe.--BEDS AND BEDDING.--Perfect rest and comfort to the tired
+Trapper.--A portable Spring bed for the woods.--A Hammock bed.--Bed
+Clothes.--The Canton Flannel Bag.--Hammocks.--TENT CARPETING.--Spruce
+and Hemlock boughs as bedding.--How to cover the ground evenly.--The
+Rubber Blanket.
+
+BOOK VIII.
+
+THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.
+
+Warning to the Novice.--Winged Cannibals of the Woods.--INSECT
+OINTMENTS.--Mosquitoes and Gnats.--Their aversion to the scent
+of Pennyroyal.--Pennyroyal Ointment.--Recipe.--Mutton tallow
+Ointment.--Tar and Sweet Oil Liniment.--Recipe.--Its effect on the
+Complexion.--Invasions of Insects by night.--Their pertinacity and
+severity.--The experience of our Adirondack guide.--The bloodthirsty
+propensities of the Mosquito admirably depicted.--The "Smudge" Smoke
+versus Insect Bites.--"Punkeys" and "Midgets."--Their terrible
+voracity.--Painful effects of their Bites.--Pennyroyal an effective
+Antidote.--Depraved
+[Page xi]
+appetite of the mosquito.--A Warning to the Intemperate.--Use and abuse
+of Alcohol.--A Popular error corrected.--A substitute for Whiskey and
+Brandy.--Red Pepper Tea.--Its great value as a remedy in Illness.--The
+Mosquitoes' favorite Victim.--Result of the bite of the insect.--The
+Mosquito Head-Net.--Directions for making the Net.--Netting attachment
+for the Hat.--Portable Sun Shade or Hat brim.--Netting attachment
+for the Hat brim.--BOAT BUILDING.--A Boat of some kind a necessity
+to the Trapper.--The "Dug-Out" or Log-Canoe.--Requisite Tools for
+its Manufacture.--Selection of the Log.--Directions for making the
+boat.--Remarkable thinness to which they may be reduced.--Lightness
+of the boat.--How to gauge the thickness.--How to stop leaks.--THE
+INDIAN OR BIRCH BARK CANOE.--The Indian as a Canoe-maker.--His
+remarkable skill.--Perfection of the Indian made Canoe.--Description
+of the Canoe.--Capacity of the various sizes.--How to construct a
+Bark Canoe.--Selection of Bark.--How to prevent Leaks.--Material
+used by the Indians in sewing the Bark.--Advantages of the Birch
+Bark Canoe.--Basswood, Hemlock, and Spruce Bark Canoes.--A LIGHT
+HOME-MADE BOAT.--Selection of Boards.--Directions for making the
+Boat.--Caulking the seams.--Value of Pitch for waterproofing
+purposes.--How it should be applied.--THE SCOW.--How to construct the
+ordinary Flat-bottomed Boat.--The Mud-stick.--SNOW SHOES.--A necessity
+for winter travel.--The "Snow Shoe Race."--The mysteries of a Snow
+Shoe.--"Taming the Snow Shoe."--How to make the Snow Shoe.--Complicated
+Net-work.--Two methods of attaching the Net-work.--How the Snow
+Shoe is worn.--THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.--Its value to the
+Trapper.--Winter Coasting.--Great sport with the Toboggan.--How to
+make a Toboggan.--Selection of Boards.--How the Sledge is used.--CURING
+SKINS.--Importance of Curing Skins properly.--Valuable hints on Skinning
+Animals.--How to dry Skins.--How to dress Skins for Market.--Astringent
+preparations.--Recipe.--STRETCHERS.--How skins are stretched.--The Board
+Stretcher.--How it is made and used.--The Wedge Stretcher.--How made
+and used.--The Bow Stretcher.--The Hoop Stretcher.--TANNING SKINS.--To
+Tan with the hair on.--Preparation of Skin for Tanning.--Tanning
+Mixture.--Recipe.--Second Mixture.--Recipe.--Third Mixture and
+Recipe.--How the Skin is softened and finished.--HOW TO TAN MINK
+AND MUSKRAT SKINS.--Preparation of Skin.--Tanning Mixtures.--Various
+Recipes.--"Fleshing."--The Fleshing-knife.--Substitute for the
+Fleshing-knife.--HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF THE BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON,
+AND MARTEN.--Tanning Mixtures.--How to soften the Skin.--Simple
+Tanned Skin.--Recipe for removing the fur.--How to finish the
+Skin.--OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.--Some
+bits of History in connection with Furs.--Ancient use of Furs.--Furs
+a medium of Exchange.--Furs and Fashion.--Extravagance in Fur
+Costume.--Choice Furs as Badges of Rank.--Their use restricted to
+Royal Families.--The Early Fur Trade of Europe.--A Tribute paid
+in Furs.--Early History of the Fur Trade in America.--Origin of
+the Hudson's Bay Company.--Hostility of the French Canadian
+Traders.--Establishment of the North West Company.--Competition and
+War.--Consolidation of the two Companies.--Great sales of the Hudson's
+Bay Company.--Importance of the Fur Trade.--Cities founded by the
+enterprise of the Trapper.--St. Paul.--Montreal and Mackinaw.--Fortunes
+built up on Fur Traffic.--John Jacob Astor.--Mink and Muskrat
+Skins.--Their extensive use in America.--Estimated value of the
+annual yield of Raw Furs throughout the World.--Classification
+of Furs by American Dealers.--"Home" Furs.--"Shipping" Furs.--Table
+of Sales of Hudson's Bay Company, in 1873.--March Sale.--September
+Sale.--Price according to Quality.--Estimated average per Skin.--List
+of American "Shipping" Furs.--List of American "Home" Furs.--MARKET
+VALUE OF FUR SKINS.--Eccentricities of the Fur Market.--Demand
+governed by Fashion.--How Fashion runs the Fur Trade.--The Amateur
+Trapper and the Fur Trade.--Difficulty of a profitable disposal
+of Furs.--Advice to the Novice.--How to realize on the sale of
+Furs.--TABLE OF VALUES OF AMERICAN FUR SKINS.--A complete list of
+American Fur bearing Animals.--Various prices of Skins according
+to Quality.--USES OF AMERICAN FURS AT HOME AND ABROAD.--The Silver
+Fox.--Fifty Guineas for a Fur Skin.--Red Fox Fur.--Its
+[Page xii]
+use in Oriental Countries.--Beaver Fur.--Its various uses.--Raccoon
+Skins, a great Staple for Russia and Germany.--Bear Skins and their
+various uses.--Lynx, Fisher, and Marten Skins.--The Mink.--Use of its
+hair for Artists pencils.--Muskrat Skins.--Three millions annually
+exported to Germany alone.--Their extensive use among the American
+poorer classes.--Otter Fur.--Sleigh Robes from Wolf Skins.--Rabbit
+Fur.--Its use in the Manufacture of Hats.--Breeding Rabbits for
+their Fur.--The Wolverine.--Skunk Fur, dignified by the name of
+Alaska Sable.--Large shipments to Foreign Countries.--How the Fur
+of the Badger is used.--Opossum, Puma, and Wild Cat Fur.--Robes
+for the Fashionable.--Squirrel and Mole skins.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page xiii]
+[Illustration: ILLUSTRATIONS.]
+
+FULL PAGES.
+
+    1. Caught at last.
+    2. Traps for Large Game.
+    3. Snares or Noose Traps.
+    4. Traps for Feathered Game.
+    5. Miscellaneous Traps.
+    6. Household Traps.
+    7. Steel Traps, and the art of Trapping.
+    8. Almost Persuaded.--to face.
+    9. The Campaign.
+   10. Trapper's Miscellany.
+
+[Page xiv]
+ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.
+
+   11. "Preface".
+   12. Initial to Preface.
+   13. End piece to Preface.
+   14. "Contents".
+   15. "Illustrations".
+   16. Initial to Book I
+   17. Dead fall for large Animals.
+   18. Explanatory drawing of pieces.
+   19. The Gun Trap.
+   20. The Bow Trap
+   21.  "   "   "   arrangement of parts.
+   22.  "   "   "   Section.
+   23. Foot String Bow Trap.
+   24. The Down fall.
+   25. The Bear Trap.
+   26. End piece to Book I.
+   27. Initial to Book II.
+   28. Quail Nooses.
+   29. Hedge Nooses.
+   30. The Triangle Snare.
+   31. The Twitch-up.
+   32. Method of Setting.
+   33.    "    "    "    No. 2.
+   34.    "    "    "    No. 3.
+   35.    "    "    "    No. 4.
+   36.    "    "    "    No. 5.
+   37. The Poacher's Snare.
+   38. The Portable Snare.
+   39. The "Simplest" Snare.
+   40. Modification No. 2.
+   41.      "        "  3.
+   42. The Quail Snare.
+   43. The Box Snare.
+   44. The Double Box Snare.
+   45. The Old fashioned Springle.
+   46. The Improved Springle.
+   47. The Figure Four Ground Snare.
+   48. The Platform Snare.
+   49. End piece.
+   50. Initial to Book III.
+   51. The Brick Trap.
+   52. Method of Setting.
+   53. The Coop Trap.
+   54. The Bat fowling Net.
+   55. The Clap Net.
+   56. The Bird Whistle.
+   57. The Trap Cage.
+   58. Diagrams of Cage.
+   59. The Spring Net Trap.
+[Page xv]
+   60. Section of Spring Net Trap.
+   61. A Simpler Net Trap.
+   62. The Upright Net Trap.
+   63. Second Method    "
+   64. The Box Owl Trap.
+   65. The Box Bird Trap.
+   66. The Pendant Box Bird Trap.
+   67. The Hawk Trap.
+   68. The Wild Duck Net.
+   69. The Hook Trap.
+   70. The Fool's Cap Trap.
+   71. The Limed Twig.
+   72. Humming-bird Trap.
+   73. Initial to Book IV.
+   74. The Common Box Trap.
+   75. Two Modes of Setting.
+   76. Box Trap.
+   77. The Figure Four Trap.
+   78. Parts of     "
+   79. The "Double Ender".
+   80. The Self-Setting Trap.
+   81. The Dead fall.
+   82. Method No. 2.
+   83. The Garotte.
+   84. Arrangement of "Setting".
+   85. The Bow Garotte Trap.
+   86. A Fish Trap.
+   87. End Piece "Maternal advice".
+   88. Initial to Book V.
+   89. The Barrel Trap.
+   90. The Box Dead Trap.
+   91. The Board Flap.
+   92. The Box Pit-fall.
+   93. Diagram of   "
+   94. Cage Trap.
+   95. Initial to Book VI.
+   96. Steel Trap. No. (0) or Rat Trap.
+   97. Steel Trap. No. 1, or Muskrat Trap.
+   98.   "     "   No. 2, or Mink Trap.
+   99.   "     "   No. 2-1/2, or Fox Trap.
+  100.   "     "   No. 3, or Otter Trap.
+  101.   "     "   No. 4, or Beaver Trap.
+  102. "The Great Bear Tamer," Steel Trap.
+  103. Steel Trap No. 5, or Small Bear Trap.
+  104. Steel Trap set in pen.
+  105. The Spring Pole.
+  106. The Sliding pole.
+  107. The Grappling Iron.
+  108. The Wolf.
+  109. The Puma.
+  110. The Canada Lynx.
+[Page xvi]
+  111. The Wild Cat.
+  112. The Bear.
+  113. The Raccoon.
+  114. The Badger.
+  115. The Beaver.
+  116. The Otter.
+  117. The Mink.
+  118. The Marten.
+  119. The Skunk.
+  120. The Wolverine.
+  121. The Opossum.
+  122. The Squirrel.
+  123. The Moose.
+  124. Initial to Book VII.
+  125. Portable Drinking Cup.
+  126. The Home Shanty.
+  127. The Shelter tent.
+  128. The Trapper's Bed.
+  129. End Piece.
+  130. Initial to Book VIII.
+  131. Head Net.
+  132. Portable Hat-brim.
+  133. Hat-brim with netting attachment.
+  134. The Dug-out or Log Canoe.
+  135. The Birch-Bark Canoe.
+  136. A Light Home-made Boat.
+  137. Diagram view of Boat----.
+  138. The Snow Shoe.
+  139. The Toboggan or Indian Sledge.
+  140. The Board Stretcher.
+  141. The Wedge Stretcher.
+  142. The Bow Stretcher.
+  143. "The End".
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 15]
+[Illustration: TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME]
+
+[Page 17]
+BOOK I.
+
+TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.
+
+
+[Illustration: H]owever free our forests may be from the lurking
+dangers of a tropical jungle, they nevertheless shelter a few large
+and formidable beasts which are legitimate and deserving subjects
+of the Trapper's Art. Chief among them are the Puma, or Cougar,
+Bear, Lynx, Wolf and Wolverine.
+
+Although commonly taken in steel traps, as described respectively
+in a later portion of this work, these animals are nevertheless
+often captured by Deadfalls and other devices, which are well known
+to the professional Trapper, and which serve excellently in cases
+of emergency, or in the scarcity of steel traps.
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+THE DEAD-FALL.
+
+There are several varieties of this trap, some of which are described
+in other parts of this volume. In general construction they all
+bear a similarity, the methods of setting being slightly changed
+to suit the various game desired for capture. For large animals,
+and particularly the Bear, the trap is sprung by the pressure of
+the animal's foot, while reaching for the bait. Select some favorite
+haunt of the Bear, and proceed to construct a pen of large stakes.
+These should consist of young trees, or straight branches, about
+three inches in diameter, and should be of such a length as to
+reach a height of four or five feet when set in the ground, this
+being the required height of the pen. Its width should be about
+two and a half or three feet; its depth, four feet; and the top
+should be roofed over with cross pieces of timber, to prevent the
+[Page 18]
+bait from being taken from above. A straight log, about eight inches
+in diameter, and six feet in length should now be rolled against the
+opening of the pen, and hemmed in by two upright posts, one on each
+side, directly on a line with the sides of the enclosure. Another
+log, or tree trunk, of the same diameter, and about fifteen or twenty
+feet in length, should next be procured. Having this in readiness,
+we will now proceed to the construction of the other pieces. In
+order to understand the arrangement of these, we present a separate
+drawing of the parts as they appear when the trap is set. (_a_),
+An upright post, is supplied at the upper end with a notch, having
+its flat face on the lower side. This post should be driven into
+the ground in the left hand back corner of the pen, and should
+be three feet or more in height. Another post (_b_) of similar
+dimensions, is provided with a notch at its upper end, the notch
+being reversed, _i. e._, having its flat side _uppermost_. This
+post should be set in the ground, _outside_ of the pen, on the
+right hand side and on a line with the first. A third post (_c_),
+is provided with a crotch on its upper end. This should be planted
+outside of the pen on the right hand side, and on a line with the
+front. The treadle piece consists of a forked branch, about three feet
+[Page 19]
+in length, supplied with a square board secured across its ends.
+At the junction of the forks, an augur hole is bored, into which a
+stiff stick about three feet in length is inserted. This is shown
+at (_h_). Two poles, (_d_) and (_e_), should next be procured, each
+about four feet in length. These complete the number of pieces,
+and the trap may then be set. Pass the pole (_d_) between the stakes
+of the pen, laying one end in the notch in the post (_a_), and
+holding the other beneath the notch in the upright (_b_). The second
+pole (_e_) should then be adjusted, one end being placed in the
+crotch post (_c_), and the other caught beneath the projecting
+end of the pole (_d_), as is fully illustrated in the engraving.
+The dead-log should then be rested on the front extremity of the
+pole last adjusted, thus effecting an equilibrium.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The treadle-piece should now be placed in position over a short
+stick of wood (_f_), with its platform raised in front, and the
+upright stick at the back secured beneath the edge of the latch
+pole (_d_).
+
+The best bait consists of _honey_, for which Bears have a remarkable
+fondness. It may be placed on the ground at the back part of the
+enclosure, or smeared on a piece of meat hung at the end of the
+pen. The dead-log should now be weighted by resting heavy timbers
+against its elevated end, as seen in the main drawing, after which
+the machine is ready for its deadly work.
+
+A Bear will never hesitate to risk his life where a feast of honey
+is in view, and the odd arrangement of timbers has no fears for
+him after that tempting bait has once been discovered. Passing
+beneath the suspended log, his heavy paw encounters the broad board
+on the treadle-piece, which immediately sinks with his weight. The
+upright pole at the back of the treadle is thus raised, forcing
+the latch-piece from the notch: this in turn sets free the side
+pole, and the heavy log is released falling with a crushing weight
+over the back of hapless Bruin.
+
+There are many other methods of setting the Dead-fall, several
+of which appear in another section of this book. The above is the
+one more commonly used for the capture of Bears, but the others are
+[Page 20]
+equally applicable and effective when enlarged to the proper size.
+
+In South America and other countries, where Lions, Tigers, Leopards,
+and Jaguars abound, these and other rude extempore traps are almost
+the only ones used, and are always very successful. The pit-fall
+often allures the Bengal Tiger to his destruction, and the Leopard
+often terminates his career at the muzzle of a rifle baited as
+seen in our page illustration. A gun thus arranged forms a most
+sure and deadly trap, and one which may be easily extemporized
+at a few moments' warning, in cases of emergency. The Puma of our
+northern forests, although by no means so terrible a foe as the
+Leopard, is still a blood-thirsty creature, and while he shuns the
+gaze of man with the utmost fear, he is nevertheless constantly
+on the alert to spring upon him unawares, either in an unguarded
+moment or during sleep. A hungry Puma, who excites suspicion by
+his stealthy prowling and ominous growl, may easily be led to his
+destruction at the muzzle of a gun, baited as we shall now describe.
+
+
+THE GUN TRAP.
+
+After a Puma has succeeded in capturing his prey, and has satisfied
+his appetite by devouring a portion of its carcass, he leaves the
+remainder for a second meal, and his early return to a second banquet
+is almost a matter of certainty. Where such a remnant of a bygone
+feast is found, the capture of the Cougar is an easy matter. Any
+carcass left in a neighborhood where Pumas are known to exist is
+sure to attract them, and day after day its bulk will be found to
+decrease until the bones only remain. By thus "baiting" a certain
+place and drawing the Pumas thither, the way is paved for their
+most certain destruction. The gun-trap is very simply constructed,
+and may be put in working order in a very few moments. The weapon
+may be a rifle or shot-gun. In the latter case it should be heavily
+loaded with buck-shot. The stock should be first firmly tied to
+some tree, or secured in a stout crotch driven into the ground,
+the barrel being similarly supported.
+
+The gun should be about three feet from the ground, and should
+be aimed at some near tree to avoid possible accident to a chance
+passer-by within its range. The gun should then be cocked, _but
+not capped_, due caution being always used, and the cap adjusted
+the very last thing after the trap is baited and set. Where a rifle
+[Page 21]
+is used, the cartridge should not be inserted until the last thing.
+
+It is next necessary to cut a small sapling about a foot or two
+in length. Its diameter should allow it to fit snugly inside the
+guard in front of the trigger, without springing the hammer. Its
+other end should now be supported by a very slight crotch, as shown
+in our illustration. Another sapling should next be procured, its
+length being sufficient to reach from the muzzle of the gun to
+the end of the first stick, and having a branch stub or hook on
+one end. The other extremity should be attached by a string to
+the tip of the first slick.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Now take a portion of the carcass and draw it firmly over the hook
+in the long stick. Prop the latter in such a position as that the
+bait shall hang directly in front of the muzzle. The crotch supporting
+the bait stick should be firmly implanted in the ground in order
+to hold the bait from being drawn to either side of the muzzle.
+
+The gun-trap is now set, and its merits may be tested. Before adjusting
+the cap the pieces should be tried several times to insure their
+perfect working. A slight pull on the bait from the front will
+draw the short stick forward. This immediately
+[Page 22]
+acts on the trigger and causes the hammer to snap. By a few trials,
+the sticks can be arranged so as to spring the trigger easily,
+and where a hair trigger is used, a mere touch on the bait will
+suffice to discharge the gun. When all is found to work perfectly,
+the trap should be surrounded by a rude pen of sticks and branches,
+extending two or three feet beyond the muzzle, in order to insure
+an approach directly in the aim of the gun. The cap should now be
+placed on the nipple, after which the deadly device may be left
+to do its certain work. The remaining portion of the carcass should
+be removed, and where the locality is likely to be frequented by
+other hunters or trappers, it is well to put up a "danger" signal
+to guard against accident. If desired two or three guns may be
+arranged like the spokes of a wheel, all aiming near the bait.
+Even with one gun the victim stands but little chance, but where
+two or three pour their contents into his body, his death is an
+absolute certainty.
+
+By fastening the gun three feet above ground the load is discharged
+upward into the mouth of its victim, and thus directly through
+the brain. Where two or more guns are used, it is advisable to
+aim at least one in such a direction as will send its charge into
+the _breast_ of the animal.
+
+The Indian Panther is very commonly taken by the gun trap, and
+even Lions are sometimes secured by the same device, only increased
+in power by a larger number of guns.
+
+There are several other methods of setting the gun trap. One way
+consists in attaching a string to the finger piece of the trigger,
+passing it back through a small staple or screw eye inserted in
+the under side of the stock for that purpose, and then drawing
+the string forward and attaching it to the top of the bait stick.
+This latter is stuck in the ground directly in front of the muzzle
+and the bait secured to its extremity. When the tempting morsel is
+grasped, the bait stick is drawn forward and the string pulled, the
+result of course being the discharge of the gun. By still another
+method, an elastic is passed through the screw eye in the stock and
+over the finger piece of the trigger, thus tending continually to
+draw it back and spring the hammer. To set the gun a short stick
+is inserted behind the finger piece, thus overcoming the power
+of the elastic. It should be very delicately adjusted, so that a
+mere touch will dislodge it. Its length should be about six inches,
+and to its other end the bait stick should be attached and arranged
+as first described. Although a rather dangerous trap to be set at
+random it is nevertheless often utilized and has brought many a
+[Page 23]
+dreaded marauder to his doom.
+
+The bear, lynx, and other large animals are sometimes taken by the
+gun trap, but it is most generally set for the Puma.
+
+
+THE BOW TRAP.
+
+This device does duty in India and Southern Asia, where it is known
+as the _tiger trap_.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It is easily constructed as follows: First cut a stout board five
+inches in width, two and a half feet in length and about two inches
+in thickness. Shave off one end to a point so that it may be driven
+into the ground. At the other extremity, in the middle of the board
+and about two inches from the edge, a hole one half an inch in
+diameter and three quarters of an inch in height, should be made;
+two auger holes, one directly above the other with the sides flatly
+trimmed, will answer perfectly. The arrow should next be constructed.
+This should be made of seasoned oak or ash, two feet in length,
+perfectly straight, smooth and round, and one third of an inch in
+[Page 24]
+diameter. One end should be notched for the bow string and vaned with
+thin feathers after the manner of ordinary arrows. The other extremity
+should be armed with a steel barb sharply pointed, and firmly riveted
+in place. Any blacksmith can forge such a tip; the shape of which is
+plainly seen in our engraving. The bow should consist of a piece of
+stout seasoned hickory, oak or ash four feet long, if such a bow is
+not at hand, a stout sapling may be used. The bow string may consist
+of cat-gut, or stout Indian twine.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Before setting the trap, it is advisable to attract the game to
+the spot selected as already alluded to in connection with the
+gun trap, and particularly so when the Puma is the victim sought.
+In our illustration we see the trap as it appears when set, and
+the same precaution of aiming at some tree should be exercised
+as advise with the gun trap. The bow should first be secured in
+place directly beneath and one eighth of an inch from the edge of
+the hole in the board, as seen at (_a_). Two large wire staples
+may be used for this purpose, being passed over the bow through
+holes in the board and clinched on the opposite side. The bend
+of the bow and length of string should now be determined, one end
+of the latter being attached to the tip of the bow and the other
+end supplied with a loop. The board should then be driven into the
+ground to the depth of about eight inches. We will next take up
+the arrow. Pass the barb through the hole in the board and adjust
+the notch over the bow-string, draw the arrow back and release the
+string. If the arrow slide easily and swiftly, through the board,
+keeping true to its aim, the contrivance is in perfect working
+order and is ready to be set. This is accomplished by the very
+simple and ingenious mechanical arrangement, shown at (_b_). On
+the under side of the arrow just behind the barb, a flat notch
+one eighth of an inch in depth and two and a half inches in length
+is cut, with rounded ends, as seen in the illustration. The bait
+stick should consist of a sapling about three feet in length, the
+large end being trimmed so
+[Page 25]
+as to fit in the hole over the arrow while the notch in the latter
+rests in the bottom of the aperture as seen in the illustration
+(_b_). The trap may then be set. Draw back the arrow, until the
+notch rests in the hole in the board. Insert the bait stick _very
+lightly_ above the arrow as shown at (_b_), propping it in place
+at the angle seen in the main drawing. The bait for a puma should
+consist of a portion of some carcass, or if for other animals,
+any of the baits given in our section on "trapping" may be used.
+In order to secure the bait firmly to the bait stick, a small hole
+and a peg at the side of the baited end will effectually prevent
+its removal and the trap win thus most surely be sprung. The prop
+which sustains the bait stick need be only a small crotch inserted
+a little to one side of the trap. The bow should now be surrounded
+by a wide pen, allowing room for the spring of the ends. The top of
+the enclosure should also be guarded by a few sticks or branches
+laid across. Directly in front of the trap and extending from it, a
+double row of rough stakes three feet high should be constructed,
+thus insuring an approach in the direct range of the arrow. Without
+this precaution the bait might be approached from the side, and the
+arrow pass beneath the head of the animal, whereas on the other
+hand it is sure to take effect in the neck or breast of its victim.
+Of course the success of this trap depends entirely upon the strength
+of the bow. When a large and powerful one is used its effect is
+almost surely fatal.
+
+Another form of the bow trap, much used in the capture of the tiger,
+forms the subject of our next illustration: no bait is here used.
+The trap is set at the side of the beaten path of the tiger and
+is sprung by the animal pressing against a string in passing. The
+bow is large and powerful and is secured to two upright posts about
+eight inches apart. The string is drawn back and a blunt stick is
+then inserted between the bow string and the inside centre of the
+bow, thus holding the latter in a bent position. A stout stick,
+with a flattened end is next inserted between the end of the blunt
+stick and the inside of the bow, the
+[Page 26]
+remaining part of the stick extending downwards, as our illustration
+shows. To the lower end of this stick a string is attached and
+carried across the path in the direct range of the arrow, being
+secured to a stake on the opposite side. The arrow is generally
+barbed with a steel or flint point, and wound with thread saturated
+with a deadly poison. This is now rested on the top of the bow
+between the upright parts, and its notch caught in the bow-string.
+Everything is then in readiness. The tiger soon steals along his
+beaten track. He comes nearer and nearer the trap until at last
+his breast presses the string. Twang, goes the bow and the arrow is
+imbedded in the flesh of its victim. He writhes for a few moments,
+until he is released from his torments by the certain death which
+follows the course of the poison through his veins.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The use of the poison is very dangerous: a mere scratch through the
+skin is likely to prove fatal, and the trapper is thus likely to
+prove his own victim. Poisoned arrows are little used by trappers;
+and the bow trap, when properly constructed, is sufficiently effective
+without the venom.
+
+
+THE DOWN-FALL.
+
+This is the famous harpoon trap, so commonly used in Africa for
+the capture of the hippopotamus. There is no reason why
+[Page 27]
+it may not be successfully employed in our own country for taking
+large game, or modified on a reduced scale for smaller animals.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The hippopotamus makes his daily rounds in regular beaten pathways;
+and the trapper, knowing this peculiarity, turns it to advantage.
+This is a common habit with many animals; and these "runways" are
+easily detected by the matted leaves and grass and the broken twigs.
+Over such a beaten track the harpoon-trap is suspended.
+
+The harpoon used by the native African trappers somewhat resembles
+a double-barbed arrowhead, and has a reflexed prong on the shaft
+just behind the barbs,--a sort of combination between a spear and
+a fish-hook. It is a terrible weapon; and, when once launched into
+the flesh of its victim, its withdrawal is impossible, on account
+of the reflexed barb. Any sharp steel shaft will answer the purpose
+of the harpoon; it should be eight or ten inches in length, and
+filed to a keen point. We will now construct the trap. The first
+requisite is a straight section of the branch of some tree. This
+should be about four inches in diameter, and four feet in length.
+Into one end of this beam the harpoon should be firmly imbedded,
+allowing the point to project about six inches. This beam should
+[Page 28]
+then be weighted with two large stones, attached firmly by a rope,
+about eighteen inches above the harpoon. At about six inches from
+the other end of the log a notch should be cut, having its flat
+side uppermost, as shown plainly in our illustration. The implement
+is now ready.
+
+Select some favorably situated tree, whose branches extend over
+the pathway chosen for the trap. By the aid of a rope secured to
+the log, and thrown over the limb, the weighted beam may be drawn
+up into the tree. While thus held by a person below, the trapper
+should climb the tree to complete operations. For this purpose, a
+smaller branch about three feet in length should be cut. One end
+should be flattened off on both sides, so as to fit in the notch
+in the beam; and the part which rests on the limb, as seen in the
+illustration, should also be flattened to prevent turning. A piece
+of stout Indian twine should next be fastened to the unwhittled end
+of the stick, which may then be adjusted in the notch of the harpoon
+beam, as seen in the engraving. The string may then be thrown down,
+and grasped by the companion below, who holds it firmly, after
+which the original rope may be removed. It will be noticed that the
+weight of the harpoon and accompaniments rests on the short arm of
+the lever which passes over the limb of the tree, and the tension on
+the string from the long arm is thus very slight. This precaution
+is necessary for the perfect working of the trap. To complete the
+contrivance, a small peg with a rounded notch should be cut, and
+driven into the ground directly plumb beneath the long end of the
+lever. It should be inserted into the earth only sufficiently to
+hold the string without pulling out, and the _side_ of the notch
+should face the path; its height should be about a foot. Into the
+notch the string should be passed, being afterwards drawn across
+the path and secured on the opposite side at the same height. The
+trap is now set; and woe to the unlucky quadruped that dares make
+too free with that string! A very slight pressure from either side
+is equally liable to slip the string from the notch, or loosen the
+peg from the ground; and the result is the same in either case,--down
+comes the weighted harpoon, carrying death and destruction to its
+victim.
+
+For large animals, this made of setting will be found to work perfectly.
+When constructed on a smaller scale, it may be slightly modified.
+It will be noticed that, when the string is approached from one
+side, it is merely slipped out of the notch,--a slight pressure
+being sufficient to dislodge it,--while the pressure
+[Page 29]
+from the opposite direction must be strong enough to lift the peg
+out of the ground bodily. This is easily done when the peg is lightly
+inserted; but, to _insure_ success, even with _light_ pressure from
+either side, an additional precaution may be used, if desired.
+Instead of fastening the end of the string securely to some object
+on the further side of the path, it is well to provide the end of
+the cord with a ring or loop, which should be passed over a nail
+or short peg driven in some tree or branch, or fastened into an
+upright stake, firmly embedded into the ground. The nail should
+point in the opposite direction from the notch in the peg, and
+its angle should incline slightly toward the path. It will thus
+be seen that an approach from one side forces the string from the
+notch in the peg, while an opposite pressure slides the ring from
+the nail.
+
+This mode of setting is especially desirable for small animals,
+on account of its being more sensitive.
+
+Such a trap may be successfully used for the puma, bear, and the
+lynx. When constructed for smaller animals, the harpoon may be
+dispensed with, a large stone being equally effective in its
+death-dealing qualities
+
+
+THE BEAR TRAP.
+
+This trap is constructed after the idea of the old-fashioned box
+or rabbit trap, and has been the means of securing many a hungry
+bear, or even puma, whose voracity has exceeded its cunning. The
+lynx and wild-cat are also among its occasional victims; and inasmuch
+as its prisoners are taken alive great sport is often realized
+before the captive is brought under control.
+
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the affair. The sides
+are built of stout young tree-trunks, cut into sections and firmly
+driven into the ground close together. For a large animal,--a bear,
+for instance,--the enclosure should be about seven feet deep, two
+and a half feet wide, and four feet high. The top should be built
+in with the sides, after the manner of the log cabin, described
+in page (244.) The two posts at the entrance should be first set
+up. On the back side of each, near the end, a deep notch should be
+cut for the reception of the cross piece at the top. This should
+likewise be notched in a similar manner on both sides of each end,
+so as to fit singly into the notches in the uprights on the one
+side, and into the second pair of uprights
+[Page 30]
+on the other. These latter should next be inserted firmly into
+the ground, having been previously notched on both sides of their
+upper ends, as described for the cross piece. They may either be
+fixed in place and the cross piece sprung in between them at the
+top, or the latter may be held in the notches of the first pair,
+while the second are being inserted. Continue thus until the full
+length of the sides are reached, when the end may be closed by
+an upright wall of plain logs, either hammered into the ground,
+after the manner of the sides, or arranged one above another in
+notches between the two end uprights. The sliding door is next
+required. This should be large enough to cover the opening, and
+should be made of stout board slabs, firmly secured by cross pieces.
+It should be made to slide smoothly into grooves cut into perpendicular
+logs situated on each side of the opening, or may be arranged to
+slip easily between the flattened side of one log on each side
+and the front of the pen. Either way works well. In the latter
+an additional upright or short board should be inserted in the
+ground at the edges of the sliding door, to prevent the latter
+from being forced to either side by the efforts of the enclosed
+captive.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There are two or three ways of setting the trap, depending upon
+the desired game. For a bear it is arranged as in our illustration.
+An upright post, two feet in length, should be cut
+[Page 31]
+to an edge at one end, and wedged in between the logs at the top
+of the trap, near the middle. Across the top of this, a pole seven
+feet in length, should be rested; one end being attached by a loop,
+or secured in a notch in the sliding door, and the other supplied
+with a strong string about four feet in length, with a stick eight
+inches in length secured to its end. Through the centre log, in
+the back of the pen, and about two feet from the ground, an auger
+hole should be made. The bait stick with bait attached should be
+inserted through this hole from the inside, and the spindle caught
+on the outside between its projecting end and a nail driven in
+the adjoining upright. This principle is clearly illustrated on
+page 105 at (_a_), and, if desired, the method (_b_) may be used
+also. For a bear, the bait should consist of a piece of meat scented
+with burnt honey-comb. The odor of honey will tempt a bear into
+almost any trap, and even into such close quarters as the above
+he will enter without the slightest suspicion, when a feast of
+honey is in view.
+
+For the cougar, or puma, the best bait is a live lamb or a young
+pig, encaged in a small pen erected at the end of the trap. A fowl
+is also excellent. When thus baited, the setting of the trap is
+varied. The upright post at the top of the trap is inserted nearer
+the front, and the cross pole is stouter. The auger hole is bored
+in the top of the trap, through the centre of one of the logs, and
+about twenty inches from the back end of the trap. The spindle is
+dispensed with and the end of the string is provided with a large
+knot, which is lowered through the auger hole, and is prevented
+from slipping back by the insertion of a stick beneath. This stick
+should be about three feet in length, and of such a size at the
+end as will snugly fit into the auger hole. It should be inserted
+delicately, merely enough to hold the knot from slipping back, and
+so as to be easily released by a slight movement in any direction.
+
+This mode of setting is more fully detailed on page 52. As the
+puma steals in upon his prey he dislodges the stick, the lid falls,
+and he finds himself imprisoned with his intended victim. This
+trap is much used in India and Asia for the capture of the tiger,
+and the jaguar of South America is frequently entrapped by the
+same devices.
+
+
+THE PIT-FALL.
+
+The tiger is the scourge of India and Southern Asia and some sections
+of these countries are so terribly infested with
+[Page 32]
+the brutes that the inhabitants are kept in a continual state of
+terror by their depredations. Many methods are adopted by the natives
+for the destruction of the terrible creatures, some of which have
+already been described. The pit-fall is still another device by
+which this lurking marauder is often captured and destroyed. It
+sometimes consists of a mere pit covered and baited in the haunts of
+the tiger, or is constructed in a continuous deep ditch surrounding
+the habitations of the natives, and thus acting as a secure protection.
+The pit is about twelve feet deep and ten feet in width, and its
+outside edge is lined with a hedge five or six feet in height.
+As the fierce brute steals upon his intended prey, he nears the
+hedge and at one spring its highest branch is cleared. He reaches
+the earth only to find himself at the bottom of a deep pit, from
+which there is no hope of escape, and where he speedily becomes
+the merciless victim of a shower of deadly arrows and bullets.
+
+Happily we have no tigers in the United States, but the puma and
+the lynx are both fit subjects for the pit-fall. These animals
+cannot be said to exist in such numbers as to become a scourge
+and a stranger to the inhabitants of any neighborhood, and for
+this reason the "Moat" arrangement of the pit-fall is not required.
+The simple pit is often used, and when properly constructed and
+baited is a very _sure_ trap. The hole should be about twelve feet
+in depth and eight feet across, widening at the bottom. Its opening
+should be covered with slicks, earth and leaves, so arranged as
+to resemble the surroundings as much as possible, but so lightly
+adjusted as that they will easily give way at a slight pressure.
+One edge of the opening should now be closely built up with stakes
+firmly inserted into the ground, and so constructed as to form a
+small pen in the middle, in which to secure the bait, generally
+a live turkey, goose, or other fowl. The other three sides should
+also be hedged in by a single row of upright stakes three or four
+feet in height, and a few inches apart in order that the hungry
+puma may whet his appetite by glimpses between them.
+
+They should be firmly imbedded in the earth directly at the edge
+of the pit, and as far as possible trimmed of their branches on the
+inside. There will thus be a small patch of solid ground for the
+feet of the fowl, which should be tied by the leg in the enclosure.
+Our trap is now set, and if there is a puma in the neighborhood he
+will be sure to pay it a call and probably a _visit_.
+
+Spying his game, he uses every effort to reach it through the
+[Page 33]
+crevices between the stakes. The cries of the frightened fowl arouse
+and stimulate his appetite, and at last exasperated by his futile
+efforts to seize his victim, he springs over the fence of stakes
+and is lodged in the depths of the pit.
+
+The puma is very agile of movement, and unless the pit is at least
+twelve feet in depth there is danger of his springing out. Any
+projecting branch on the inside of the stakes affords a grasp for
+his ready paw, and any such branch, if within the reach of his
+leap, is sure to effect his escape. For this reason it is advisable
+to trim smoothly all the projections and leave no stub or knot
+hole by which he could gain the slightest hold. The construction
+of a pit-fall is a rather difficult operation on account of the
+digging which it necessitates. On this account it is not so much
+used as many other traps which are not only equally effective but
+much more easily constructed. The following is an example:--
+
+
+THE LOG COOP TRAP.
+
+This is commonly set for bears, although a deer or a puma becomes
+its frequent tenant. As its name implies it consists of a coop of
+logs, arranged after the principle of the Coop Trap described on
+page 67. The logs should be about eight feet in length, notched
+at the ends as described for the Log Cabin, page (244). Lay two
+of the logs parallel about seven feet apart. Across their ends in
+the notches, lay two others and continue building up in "cob-house"
+fashion until the height of about six feet is reached. The corners
+may be secured as they are laid by spikes, or they may be united
+afterward in mass by a rope firmly twisted about them from top to
+bottom. Logs should now be laid across the top of the coop and
+firmly secured by the spikes or rope knots. There are several ways
+of setting the trap. A modification of that described on page 67
+works very well, or an arrangement of spindle and bait stick, as
+in the Box Trap, page 105, may also be employed. In the latter
+case, the bait stick is either inserted between the logs at the
+back of the coop, or a hole is bored through one of them for this
+purpose. For this mode of setting, the coop should be constructed
+beneath some tree. It is set by means of a rope attached to the
+upper edge of one of its sides the rope being thrown over a limb
+of the tree and the loose end brought down and secured to the bait
+stick by a spindle, as described
+[Page 34]
+for the trap on page (195). The limb here acts in place of the
+tall end piece of the Box Trap, and by raising the coop up to such
+an angle as that it will be nearly poised, the setting may be made
+so delicate that a mere touch on the bait stick from the interior
+will dislodge the pieces and let fall the enclosure. The _simplest_
+mode of setting the trap is that embodied in the "snare" method on
+page (52). The rope is here provided with a knot, which must pass
+easily between the logs, or through the hole at the back of the
+coop, the length of rope being so arranged as that the coop shall
+be sufficiently raised where the knot projects into the interior. The
+introduction of the bait stick beneath the knot will thus prevent
+the latter from being drawn back, and thus our trap is set. The
+bait stick in any case should be about two feet in length; and with
+this leverage but a slight touch will be required to spring the
+pieces. In the latter method the limb of the tree is not necessary.
+A stout crotched stake driven into the ground about twenty feet,
+at the back of the coop, will answer every purpose, and the coop
+may be constructed wherever desired. This is a most excellent trap
+for large animals. It secures the game alive, and is thus often
+productive of most exciting sport. For the bear, the bait should
+consist of honey or raw meat. Full directions for baiting all kinds
+of American game are given under their respective heads in another
+part of this book. The Coop Trap may be constructed of any dimensions,
+from the small example on page (67) to the size above described.
+
+There are several other inventions commonly used for the capture
+of large animals in various parts of the globe, which would be
+of little avail in this country. Such is the African Corrall, or
+Hopo, by which whole herds of quaggas, elands, and buffalo are
+often destroyed. The trap consists of two hedges in the form of
+the letter V, which are very high and thick at the angle. Instead
+of the hedges being joined at this point, they are made to form a
+lane about two hundred feet in length, at the extremity of which
+a giant pit is formed. Trunks of trees are laid across the margins
+to prevent the animals from escaping. The opening of this pit is
+then covered with light reeds and small green boughs. The hedges
+often extend miles in length and are equally as far apart at these
+extremities. The tribe of hunters make a circle, three or four
+miles around the country adjacent to the opening, and gradually
+closing up are almost sure to enclose a large body of game, which,
+by shouts and skilfully hurled Javelins, they drive into the narrowing
+[Page 35]
+walls of the Hopo. The affrighted animals rush headlong to the gate
+presented at the end of the converging hedges and here plunge pell-mell
+into the pit, which is soon filled with a living mass. Some escape by
+running over the others; and the natives, wild with excitement,
+spear the poor animals with mad delight, while others of the brutes
+are smothered and crushed by the weight of their dead and dying
+companions. It is a most cruel and inhuman device, and its effects
+are sometimes appalling.
+
+
+THE NET TRAP.
+
+The lion and tiger are often taken in a net, which is secured to
+a frame work and suspended over a tempting bait. When the latter
+is touched the net falls, and the victim becomes entangled in the
+meshes and is securely caught. So far as we know, this mode of
+capture is never tried in this country. For the puma, lynx and
+wild-cat we fancy it might work admirably. The net should be of
+stout cord, and should be secured to a heavy square frame work,
+tilted as in the coop trap, already described. There should be
+plenty of slack in the net, and the looseness should be drawn flat
+over the framework in folds. The contrivance may be set by a large
+figure four trap, page (107), or the device described under the
+coop trap, page (67).
+
+The use of bird lime, for the capture of a tiger, certainly seems
+odd; but it is, nevertheless, a common mode of taking the animal,
+in the countries where this marauder abounds. The viscid, tenacious
+preparation known as bird lime is described on page (97) and is
+familiar to most of our readers. For the capture of birds it is
+unfailing, when once their delicate plumage comes in contact with
+it. Its effect on the tiger is surprising, and many a hunter has
+secured his striped foe by its aid. For this purpose, the cans
+of the preparation are arranged on elevated boards around a bed
+of leaves, in which the bait is placed. A small platform is so
+placed that the tiger shall step upon it in reaching for the bait,
+which, by the aid of strings, tilts the boards and tips off the
+cans. The lime spills on its victim and over the bed of leaves,
+and the tiger, in his endeavors to free himself from the sticky
+substance only succeeds in spreading it, and as he rolls and tumbles
+on the ground he soon becomes completely smeared and covered with
+the dry leaves, from which it is impossible for him to extricate
+himself.
+
+In his frantic rage he writhes upon the ground and becomes an easy
+[Page 36]
+prey to the hunter, who is generally on hand for the fray.
+
+Steel traps are much used for the capture of large game, and are
+made in sizes especially adapted for the purpose. These are described
+under the proper head, in another portion of this work; and the various
+baits and modes of setting required for the different animals, are
+clearly set forth under their respective titles of the latter,
+in the section "Art of Trapping."
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 37]
+[Illustration: SNARES OR MOOSE TRAPS]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 39]
+BOOK II.
+
+SNARES OR MOOSE TRAPS.
+
+
+[Illustration: T]hese devices, although properly coming under the
+head of "traps," differ from them in the sense in which they are
+generally understood. A _snare_ naturally implies an _entanglement_;
+and for this reason the term is applied to those contrivances which
+secure their victims by the aid of strings or nooses. Inventions of
+this kind are among the most useful and successful to the professional
+Trapper, and their varieties are numerous. The "Twitch-up" will be
+recognized as a familiar example by many of our country readers,
+who may have seen it during their rambles, cautiously set in the
+low underbrush, awaiting its prey, or perhaps holding aloft its
+misguided victim.
+
+Snares are among the most interesting and ingenious of the trap
+kind, besides being the most sure and efficacious. They possess
+one advantage over all other traps; they can be made in the woods,
+and out of the commonest material.
+
+Let the young trapper supply himself with a small, sharp hatchet,
+and a stout, keen edged jack-knife,--these being the only tools
+required. He should also provide himself with a coil of fine brass
+"sucker wire," or a quantity of horse-hair nooses (which will be
+described further on), a small ball of tough twine and a pocket full
+of bait, such as apples, corn, oats and the like, of course depending
+upon the game he intends to trap. With these, his requirements are
+complete, and he has the material for a score of capital snares,
+which will do him much excellent service if properly constructed.
+Perhaps the most common of the noose traps is the ordinary
+
+
+QUAIL SNARE,
+
+which forms the subject of our first illustration. This consists
+of a series of nooses fastened to a strong twine or wire. They
+[Page 40]
+may be of any number, and should either consist of fine wire,
+horse-hair, or fine fish-line. If of wire, common brass "sucker
+wire," to be found in nearly all hardware establishments and country
+stores, is the best. Each noose should be about four inches in
+diameter. To make it, a small loop should be twisted on one end of
+the wire, and the other passed through it, thus making a slipping
+loop, which will be found to work very easily. Fifteen or twenty of
+these nooses should be made, after which they should be fastened
+either to a stout string or wire, at distances of about four inches
+from each other, as seen in our illustration. Each end of the long
+string supporting the nooses should then be fastened to a wooden
+peg. After selecting the ground, the pegs should be driven into
+the earth, drawing the string tightly, as seen in our illustration.
+The ground around the nooses should then be sprinkled with corn,
+oats, and the like, and the trap is set. As a general thing, it
+is advisable to set it in a neighborhood where quails are known
+to abound; and as they run all over the ground in search of food,
+they are sure to come across the bait strewn for them, and equally
+as certain to be caught and entangled in the nooses. The writer
+has known as many as six quails to be thus caught at a time, on
+a string of only twelve nooses. Partridges and woodcock will
+occasionally be found entangled in the snare, and it will oft-times
+happen that a rabbit will be secured by the device.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+HOOP NOOSES.
+
+This is a variation from the above, the noose being attached to
+a barrel hoop and the latter being fastened to two stout posts,
+which are firmly driven into the ground. By their scattering the
+bait inside the hoop, and adjusting the loops, the contrivance
+is complete.
+
+This is a very old and approved method.
+
+In the initial (T) at the head of this section we give also
+[Page 41]
+another suggestion for a noose trap. The cross pieces are tacked to
+the top of the upright, and a noose suspended from each end,--the
+bait adjusted as there seen.
+
+We have mentioned horse-hair nooses as being desirable, and they
+are commonly used; but, as it takes considerable time to make them,
+and the wire answering the purpose fully as well, we rather recommend
+the wire in preference. We will give a few simple directions, however,
+for the making of the horse-hair nooses, in case our readers might
+desire to use them instead.
+
+Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (we would
+recommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of the hairs
+and double it in the middle, hold the double between the thumb
+and fore-finger of the left hand, letting the two ends hang from
+the under side of the thumb, and keeping the hairs between the
+thumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. Now proceed to
+twist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, letting them
+twist together as the loop emerges on the upper side of the thumb.
+
+A little practice will overcome what at first seems very difficult.
+To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right distance
+of separation, and at the same time to twist them and draw the
+loop from between the fingers as they _are_ twisted, seems quite a
+complicated operation; and so it will be found at first. But when
+once mastered by practice, the twisting of five nooses a minute will
+be an easy matter. When the entire length of the hairs are twisted,
+the ends should be cut off even and then passed through the small
+loop at the folded end. The noose is then ready to be fastened
+to the main string of support. Horse-hair nooses are commonly used
+in nearly all snares as they are always to be had, and possess
+considerable strength. The fine brass wire is also extensively
+used, and the writer rather prefers it. It is very strong and slips
+easily, besides doing away with the trouble of twisting the loops,
+which to some might be a very difficult and tedious operation. We
+recommend the wire, and shall allude to it chiefly in the future,
+although the horse-hair may be substituted whenever desired.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is another modification of the foregoing quail-traps very
+commonly utilized by professional trappers of many countries. A
+low hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length small
+openings are left here and there, in which the nooses are placed,
+as in the accompanying engraving. The bait is strewn around on both
+sides of the hedge, and the grouse or other game, on its discovery,
+are almost sure to become entangled
+[Page 42]
+sooner or later. It is a well-known fact about these birds, that
+they will always seek to pass _under_ an object which comes in their
+way rather than fly over it; and although the hedge of this trap is
+only a foot or more in height, the birds will almost invariably run
+about until they find an opening, in preference to flying over it.
+It is owing to this peculiarity of habit that they are so easily
+taken by this method. Our illustration gives only a very short
+section of hedge; it may be extended to any length. The writer's
+experience with the hedge nooses has been very satisfactory, although
+never using a length greater than ten feet. It is well to set the
+hedge in the locality where quails or partridges are _known_ to
+run. And in setting, it is always desirable to build the hedge
+so that it will stretch over some open ground, and connect with
+two trees or bushes. Cedar boughs are excellent for the purpose,
+but any close brushwood will answer very well. Strew the ground
+with corn, oats and the like. A small quantity only is necessary.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is another noose trap commonly used abroad, and very little
+known here. It is a _tree_ trap, and goes by the name of the "triangle
+snare." It is not designed for the capture of any _particular_ kind
+of bird, although it often will secure fine and rare specimens.
+It consists of a sapling of wood, bent and tied in the form of a
+triangle, as shown in our illustration. This may be of any size,
+depending altogether on the bird the young trapper fancies to secure.
+A noose should be suspended in the triangle from its longest point.
+This noose should hang as indicated in our illustration, falling
+low enough to leave a space of an inch or so below it at the bottom
+of the triangle. The bait, consisting of a piece of an apple, a
+berry, insect, or piece of
+[Page 43]
+meat, according to the wish of the trapper, should then be suspended
+in the centre of the noose, after which the contrivance should be
+hung in some tree to await events. As they are so easily made and
+can be carried with so little trouble, it is an excellent plan to
+set out with a dozen or so, hanging them all in different parts of
+the woods; as, under circumstances of so many being set, scarcely
+a day will pass in which the trapper will not be rewarded by some
+one of the snares. The writer once knew of a case where a hawk
+was captured by one of these simple devices. In this case it had
+been set expressly, and the wire was extra strong. This trap, we
+believe, is quite common in parts of Germany, but, as far as we
+know, has not been utilized to any great extent in our country.
+We recommend it with great confidence.
+
+For the capture of woodchucks, muskrats and house-rats, the wire
+noose may also be adapted to good purpose. Many a woodchuck has been
+secured by the aid of this simple invention. It is only necessary
+to arrange the loop in the opening of the burrow, securing the wire
+to a stout stick, firmly driven into the ground. If properly "set"
+the animal, on emerging from the burrow, will become entangled, and
+by his efforts to disengage himself will only tighten the loop
+and thus render escape impossible. For rats, the noose should be
+attached to a nail, and the wire similarly arranged over the hole.
+
+The slipping-noose thus simply adapted becomes a most effective
+trap, and is always sure to hold its victim when once within its
+grasp, as every struggle only tends to draw the noose tighter. They
+are quick in their action, and produce death without much pain,
+and for this reason are to be commended.
+
+
+THE "TWITCH-UP."
+
+Our next example of the snare, we imagine, is one which all our
+boy-readers will immediately recognize; for it would certainly
+seem that any country boy who does not know the "Twitch-up" must
+be far behind the times, and live in a locality where there are
+no rabbits, quail, or even boys, besides himself, to suggest it.
+This snare is a _universal favorite_ among nearly all country boys,
+and our illustration will immediately bring it to mind. Its name,
+"The Twitch-up," conveys perfectly its method of working. Our
+illustration represents the trap as it appears when set. It has many
+varieties, of which we will select the best. They may be divided
+into two classes--those with upright nooses, and those in which
+[Page 44]
+the noose is spread on the ground, the latter of which are commonly
+called "ground snares." We will give our attention first to the
+"upright" style. These are rather entitled to preference on account
+of the harmless death which they inflict, invariably catching by
+the neck. Whereas the ground nooses as frequently lift their prey
+into the air by their feet, and thus prolong their suffering.
+Twitch-ups are the most successful and sure of any snares, and that,
+too, without being complicated. The writer, in his younger days,
+was quite an expert in trapping, and he can truthfully say that he
+found more enjoyment and had better success with these than with any
+other kinds of traps he employed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+They are generally set in thickets or woods where either rabbits
+or partridges are known to abound. Having arrived at his chosen
+trapping ground, the young trapper should first select some slender,
+elastic sapling; that of the hickory is the best, and is generally
+to be found in open woods--if not, some other kind will answer very
+well. It should be about five or six feet in length, (trimmed of
+its branches,) and in diameter need be no larger than an axe-handle
+or a broom-stick. When this is decided, some spot about five feet
+distant from the sapling should then be selected. The hatchet and
+knife will now come into excellent use, in cutting the sticks for
+the little inclosure shown
+[Page 45]
+in our drawing. This should be about eight or ten inches in diameter,
+and of about the same height. The sticks should be driven into
+the ground in a circle, leaving an open space of about six inches
+on one side. A stout switch as large as a man's little finger,
+and nearly two feet long, should then be cut and nicely sharpened
+at both ends. This should then be driven into the ground in the
+form of an arch, at the opening of the inclosure.
+
+We will now ask our readers to turn their attention to the next
+illustration, in order to understand what is to follow. This picture
+shows the method of setting the trap.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+After the arch is firmly fixed in its place, a short piece of stick
+should be cut, of a length corresponding to the height of the arch.
+To the middle of this stick the bait should be attached, being
+either tied to it or stuck on a plug driven into the stick, the
+latter being sharpened on one end. Next proceed to cut another
+stick, of about six inches in length; let this be flattened on
+one end. The wire noose should then be fastened to the opposite
+end. The noose in this case should be large enough to fill the
+opening of the arch. We will now go back to the sapling again.
+It should be bent down slightly, and a piece of the strong twine
+should be tied to its tip. Taking hold of the string, proceed to
+bend down the end of the sapling, in the direction of the inclosure,
+until it draws with a force strong enough to lift a rabbit if he
+were tied to the end of it. Thus holding it down with the string
+against the front of the inclosure, cut off the twine at the place
+where it crosses the top of the arch, as this will be the required
+length. It is now necessary to tie the end of this string to the
+same piece of wood and at the same place to which the noose was
+tied. When this is done the trap may be set as shown in the cut.
+The spring sapling should be bent as seen in the first illustration.
+The piece of wood holding the noose should be passed beneath the
+top of the arch, as far as it will go, with its long end pointing
+inside the inclosure. By now supporting the inside end with the
+bait stick, and carefully adjusting the noose so as to completely
+fill the arch, the trap will be set.
+
+[Page 46]
+In order to reach the bait, the rabbit or bird _must_ necessarily
+pass its head through the noose, after which, if the bait be scarcely
+_touched_, the animal's doom is sealed, and he is lifted into the
+air, generally suffering almost instant death. It is well known
+that in the case of a rabbit the neck is broken by a very slight
+blow, a strong snap of the finger being often sufficient. It is
+therefore safe to conclude that when thus suddenly caught and lifted
+by the noose, death must occur almost instantaneously from the
+same cause.
+
+It is not really necessary to success that the force of the sapling
+should be strong enough to lift the rabbit from the ground, as a
+mere strong tightening of the noose would be sufficient to cause
+strangulation and death. But we recommend the former method as
+being less painful and more rapid in its effects.
+
+If the young trapper should experience any difficulty in finding
+saplings of the right size, in the locality where he desires to
+set his traps, the difficulty may be easily mended by cutting the
+poles elsewhere, and carrying them to his trapping-ground, this
+answering the purpose equally well. They should be sharpened nicely
+on the large end, and firmly stuck into ground. The "Twitch-up"
+may be used for the capture of all varieties of game, and when
+set with the noose in the opening of a hollow tree, a stray coon
+will occasionally be entrapped.
+
+The next figure represents another method of constructing this
+trap, The picture explains itself. Instead of the arch, two notched
+sticks are driven into the ground, one on each side of the opening
+of the pen, The other piece should be of the shape shown in the
+figure, made either in one piece or in two pieces fastened together.
+They may all be constructed from twigs in the woods. Let the noose
+and draw-string now be fastened to the middle of the cross piece,
+and when set it will appear as in our figure. It will easily be
+seen that a slight pull on the bait will turn the cross piece from
+beneath the notches, and allow it to fly into the air.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 2]
+
+In our next instance the same principle is employed. The
+[Page 47]
+notched pegs are here driven in the back part of the pen, about
+five inches apart, with their notches towards the front. A forked
+bait stick of the shape shown is then procured. The draw-string
+should be attached near the end furthest from the fork. By now
+inserting the ends lightly beneath the notches in the pegs, at
+the same time letting the bait incline near the ground, the trap
+will be set on a very slight lift, as the bait will dislodge the
+pieces. Of course the noose must be arranged in the opening of the
+pen, as in the previous varieties. The bait stick in both cases
+should be set cautiously beneath the notches, as shown at (_a_),
+so that the slightest turn will cause it to roll out of position.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 3]
+
+A fourth method of snaring is shown in our next figure. In this
+instance the original arch is used, or else some circular opening
+constructed in the front of the pen. Inside, at the back part of
+the inclosure, a smaller arch is placed. Two sticks are then to
+be made similar to those mentioned in our first example of the
+"Twitch-up." Let the draw-string be tied to the end of one of these
+sticks; after which it should be passed under the inside arch, being
+brought out in front of it, and there supported by the bait-stick,
+as seen in our illustration. The noose should then be attached
+to the draw-string above the pen, and afterward brought down and
+arranged in front of the opening. The trap is then set, and will
+be found on trial to work admirably.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 4]
+
+One of the simplest as well as _surest_ of "Twitch-up" traps forms
+the subject of our next illustration. Like the foregoing varieties
+it is of course to be surrounded by its pen, and supplied with a
+circular opening or arch at one side, in which to hang the noose.
+It is constructed of three twigs. A simple crotch (_a_) should be
+firmly inserted in the ground at
+[Page 48]
+the back part of the pen; (_b_) the bait stick, consists of a straight
+twig, five or six inches in length, and should be attached to the
+draw-string at about half an inch from the large end; (_c_) is
+another forked stick with unequal arms, the long one being driven
+into the ground near the opening of the pen and a little to one side,
+letting the remaining arm point directly towards the crotch-stick
+at the back of the pen. The noose having been attached to the
+draw-string, the trap may now be set. Lower the bait stick and pass
+the large end under the crotch at the back of the pen, catching
+the baited end underneath the tip of the forked stick near the
+pen's opening. Arrange the noose in front of the entrance, and
+the thing is done. A mere touch on the bait will suffice to throw
+the pieces asunder. It is an excellent plan to sharpen the point
+of the forked stick (_c_) where it comes in contact with the bait
+stick, in order to make the bearing more slight, and consequently
+more easily thrown from its balance.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 5]
+
+
+THE POACHER'S' SNARE.
+
+Our next example represents one of the oldest and best snares in
+existence,--simple in construction, and almost infallible in its
+operations. It is the one in most common use among the poachers of
+England, hence its name. The pieces are three in number, and may
+be cut from pine wood, affording easy and profitable employment
+for the jack-knife during odd hours and rainy days, when time hangs
+heavily.
+
+The pieces are so simple in form and easy of construction that a
+sufficient number for fifty traps might be whittled in less than two
+hours, by any smart boy, who is at all "handy" with his jack-knife.
+
+If a few good broad shingles can be found, the work is even much
+easier,--mere splitting and notching being then all that is necessary.
+The bait stick should be about eight inches long, pointed at one
+end, and supplied with a notch in the other at about half an inch
+[Page 49]
+from the tip. The upright stick should be considerably shorter than
+the bait stick, and have a length of about ten inches, one end being
+nicely pointed, and the broad side of the other extremity supplied
+with a notch similar to the bait stick. About four inches from the
+blunt end, and on the narrow side of the stick, a square notch should
+be cut, sufficiently large to admit the bait stick loosely. The catch
+piece now remains. This should be about two and a-half inches in
+width, and bevelled off at each end into a flat edge. The shapes of
+the different pieces, together with their setting, will be readily
+understood by a look at our illustration.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A hundred of these pieces will make a small bundle, and may be easily
+carried by the young trapper, together with his other necessaries,
+as he starts off into the woods. He will thus be supplied with parts
+for thirty-three traps, all ready to be set, only requiring the
+stakes for the pens, which may be easily cut in the woods. Having
+selected a flexible sapling about five feet in length, and having
+stripped it of its branches, proceed to adjust the pieces. Take one
+of the upright sticks, and insert it firmly in the ground, with
+its upper notch facing the sapling, and at about four feet distant
+from it. Bend down the "springer," and by its force determine the
+required length for the draw-string attaching one end to the tip
+of the sapling, and the other near the end of a catch piece, the
+latter having its bevelled side uppermost. The wire noose should
+then be attached to the draw-string about six inches above the
+catch-piece. The pen should now be constructed as previously directed.
+Its entrance should be on the side _furthest_ from the springer,
+and should be so built as that the peg in the ground shall be at
+the back part of the enclosure. The pen being finished, the trap
+may be set.
+
+Insert the bait stick with bait attached into the square notch in
+the side of the upright peg; or, if desired, it may be adjusted by
+a pivot or nail through both sticks, as seen in our illustration,
+always letting the baited end project toward the
+[Page 50]
+opening. Draw down the catch piece, and fit its ends into the notches
+in the back of the upright peg and extremity of the bait-stick.
+By now pulling the latter slightly, and gently withdrawing the
+hand, the pieces will hold themselves together, only awaiting a
+lift at the bait to dislodge them. Adjust the wire loop at the
+opening of the pen, and you may leave the trap with the utmost
+confidence in its ability to take care of itself, and any unlucky
+intruder who tries to steal its property.
+
+Most of the snares which we shall describe are constructed from
+rough twigs, as these are always to be found in the woods, and
+with a little practice are easily cut and shaped into the desired
+forms. If desired, however, many of them may be whittled from pine
+wood like the foregoing, and the pieces carried in a bundle, ready
+for immediate use. In either case, whether made from the rough
+twigs or seasoned wood, it is a good plan to have them already
+prepared, and thus save time at the trapping ground when time is
+more valuable.
+
+
+THE PORTABLE SNARE.
+
+This is simply a modification of the snare just described, but
+possesses decided advantages over it in many respects. In the first
+place, it requires little or no protection in the shape of an enclosure.
+It can be set in trees or in swamps, or in short in _any_ place
+where an upright elastic branch can be found or adjusted. Like
+the foregoing, it is to be commended for its portability, fifty
+or sixty of the pieces making but a small parcel, and furnishing
+material for a score of traps. We call it the "portable snare"
+partly in order to distinguish it from the one just described,
+but chiefly because this particular variety is generally called
+by that name in countries where it is most used.
+
+It is composed of three pieces, all to be cut from a shingle or thin
+board. Let the first be about eight inches long, and three-quarters
+of an inch in width. This is for the upright. An oblong mortise
+should be cut through this piece, one inch in length, and beginning
+at about an inch from the end of the stick. Three inches from the
+other end, and on one of the broad sides of the stick, a notch
+should be made, corresponding in shape to that shown in our
+illustration. The bait stick should be four or five inches long,
+one end fitting easily into the mortise, where it should be secured
+[Page 51]
+by a wire or smooth nail driven through so as to form a hinge, on
+which it will work easily. On the upper side of this stick, and two
+inches distant from the pivot, a notch should be cut, similar to that
+in the upright. The catch piece should be about two inches in length,
+and bevelled off to a fiat edge at each end. This completes the pieces.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+To set the trap, it is only necessary to find some stout sapling,
+after which the upright stick may be attached to it close to the
+ground, by the aid of two pieces of stout iron wire, twisted firmly
+around both. It is well to cut slight grooves at each end of the
+upright for the reception of the wires, in order to prevent slipping.
+Tie a strong piece of twine around one
+[Page 52]
+end of the catch piece, knotting it on the beveled side. Cut the
+string about two feet in length, and attach the other end to the
+tip of the sapling. Adjust the bait stick on its pivot. By now
+lowering the catch piece, and lodging the knotted end beneath the
+notch in the upright and the other end in the notch on the bait
+stick, the pieces will appear as in our drawing. Care should be
+taken to set the catch pieces as slightly as possible in the notches,
+in order to insure sensitiveness. At about four inches from the
+catch piece, the wire noose should be attached and arranged in a
+circle directly around the bait. By now backing up the trap with
+a few sticks to prevent the bait from being approached from behind,
+the thing is complete, and woe to the misguided creature that dares
+to test its efficacy. By adjusting the drawstring so far as the
+upper end of the catch piece, the leverage on the bait stick is
+so slight as to require a mere touch to overcome it; and we may
+safely say that, when this trap is once baited, it will stay baited,
+so far as animal intruders are concerned, as we never yet have
+seen a rabbit or bird skilful enough to remove the tempting morsel
+before being summarily dealt with by the noose on guard duty.
+
+For portability, however, the following has no equal.
+
+
+THE "SIMPLEST" SNARE.
+
+This is one of the most ingenious and effective devices used in
+the art of trapping; and the principle is so simple and universal
+in its application to traps in general as to become a matter of
+great value to all who are at all interested in the subject. There
+is scarcely a trap of any kind which could not be set with the
+knotted string and bait stick, at the expense of a little thought
+and ingenuity. The principle is easily understood by a look at
+our engraving, which probably represents the _simplest_ twitch-up
+it is possible to construct. A stout wooden peg, having a hole the
+size of a lead pencil near the top, is driven firmly into the
+[Page 53]
+ground. The "knot" is made on the end of the raw-string, and passed
+through the hole in the peg from behind, being secured in place
+by the insertion of the bait stick in front. The latter should be
+about four inches long, and should be inserted very lightly,--merely
+enough to prevent the knot from slipping back. The noose should be
+fastened to the draw-string six or seven inches from the knot,
+and arranged in front of the bait at the opening of the pen, which
+should be constructed as previously directed. The peg should be
+about six inches long and the hole should be made with a 1-3 inch
+auger. Dozens of these pegs may be carried without inconvenience,
+and utilized in the same number of snares, in a very short time.
+We have already described the so-called "portable snare;" but, for
+portability, there is no noose-trap to be compared with the above.
+We give also a few other applications of the same principle.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 1]
+
+In the second example, a horizontal stick is used instead of the
+peg, the hole being made in its centre. Its ends are caught in
+notches in opposite sticks at the back part of the pen, and the
+noose arranged at the opening.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 2]
+
+Again, by a third method (see engraving next page), these notched
+sticks may be driven into the ground first, and a row of twigs
+continued on them on both sides, thus leaving a passageway between
+as represented in the illustration. A noose may then be set at
+each opening, with the bait in the middle; so that, at whichever
+side it is approached, the result is the same, besides affording
+a chance of securing two birds at the same time.
+
+
+THE QUAIL SNARE.
+
+That quails are sociable in their habits, and that they run together
+in broods in search of their food, is a fact well known
+[Page 54]
+to all sportsmen. A most excellent opportunity is thus afforded
+the hunter to secure several at one shot, and the same advantage
+may be gained by the trapper by specially arranging for it. For
+this purpose there is no invention more desirable or effective than
+the snare we next illustrate; and on account of the companionable
+habits of the quail, it is just as sure to catch six birds as one.
+The principle on which the trap works, is the same as in the three
+foregoing.
+
+[Illustration: Method No. 3]
+
+Two notched pegs are first driven into the ground, about four inches
+apart, and the flat stick with the hole in the centre caught beneath
+these summits, as just described. It should be firmly secured;
+several nooses are next to be attached to the drawstring, and the
+trap set as already directed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The best bait consists of a "nub" of pop-corn, firmly impaled on
+the spindle, together with a few loose grains scattered on the ground
+right beneath it. The nooses should be arranged around the bait so
+as to touch or overlap each other, and the bait stick introduced
+into the hole a little more firmly than when set with one noose. The
+quail on reaching the trap all rush for the corn on the ground,
+and thus fill nearly if not all the nooses. When the supply here
+is exhausted, then united attacks are directed towards the "nub"
+on the bait stick, which soon becomes loosened: the knot is thus
+released and each noose will probably launch a victim in mid-air.
+This invention is original with the author of this work, so far
+as he knows; and it will be found the simplest as well as most
+effective quail snare in existence. Pop-corn is mentioned as bait
+partly on account of its being a favorite food with the quail;
+but particularly because the _pecking_ which it necessitates
+[Page 55]
+in order to remove the grains from the cob, is sure to spring the
+trap. If pop corn cannot be had, common Indian corn will answer
+very well. Oats or buckwheat may also be used, as the ground bait,
+if desired.
+
+
+THE BOX SNARE.
+
+This is a most unique device, and will well repay anyone who may
+desire to test its merits. It may be set for a rabbits, coon, or
+feathered game, of course varying the size of the box accordingly. For
+ordinary purposes, it should be seven or eight inches square, leaving
+one end open. Place it in the position shown in the illustration
+and proceed to bore an auger hole in the top board, one and a half
+inches from the back edge.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is for the reception of the bait stick. Directly opposite
+to this and an inch from the front edge of the board a notched
+peg should be inserted. A gimlet hole should now be bored on a
+line between the auger hole and notched peg, and half an inch from
+the latter. A small stout screw eye should next be inserted at
+the rear edge of the board, and another one fastened to the back
+board, two inches from the bottom. With these simple preparations
+the box is complete. The bait stick should be about five or six
+inches long and supplied with a notch at the upper end. It should be
+of such a size as to pass easily into the auger hole, and provided
+with a peg inserted through it at about an inch and a half from
+the notched end, as shown in our illustration at (_a_). The object
+of this peg is to prevent the bait stick from being drawn entirely
+[Page 56]
+through the hole by the force of the pull from above. The catch piece
+should be only long enough to secure its ends beneath the notches in
+the peg at the top of the box and the projecting bait stick. It should
+be bevelled off at the tips as in the instances previously described,
+and attached to a piece of sucker wire, the point of attachment being
+at about an inch from the end of the stick. The wire should be about
+two and a half feet in length, the catch piece being fastened at about
+six inches from one end. To set this neat little invention it is
+first necessary to procure a strong and elastic switch about four
+feet in length, sharpen it slightly at the large end and insert
+it firmly in the screw eye at the back of the box, securing it in
+place at the top by strings through the screw eye at that place. By
+now attaching the short end of the wire to the tip of the sapling,
+inserting the bait stick from the inside of the box, and securing the
+catch piece in the notches, the other pieces will be in equilibrium,
+and the only remaining thing to be done is to pass the long end
+of the wire through the gimlet hole, and form it into a slipping
+noose which shall completely fill the opening of the box. In order
+to reach the bait the animal must pass his head through the noose,
+and it can be easily seen that the slightest pull on that tempting
+morsel will release the catch piece and tighten the wire around
+the neck of the intruder. Where the trap is small and the captured
+animal is large, it will sometimes happen that the box will be
+carried a distance of several feet before overpowering its victim;
+but it is sure to do it in the end if the spring powers of the
+sapling are strong and it is firmly secured to the box. If desired,
+the box may be tied to a neighboring stone or tree to prevent any
+such capers; but it will generally be found unnecessary, and a few
+minutes' search will always reveal it with its unlucky captive.
+
+We have described the box with its spring attached; but this is not
+a requisite, as it may be used with growing sapling when required.
+
+The same trap may be constructed of a pasteboard box and whalebone,
+for the capture of small birds, and used with good success. The
+size we have mentioned is adaptable for rabbits and animals of
+the same size, but is really larger than necessary for feathered
+game.
+
+
+THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.
+
+This is another embodiment of the same principle which has already
+been described, viz.--the knotted string. By many it
+[Page 57]
+is considered an improvement on the box snare just mentioned, owing
+to the possibility of its taking two victims at the same time. It
+may be set for rabbits, mink, or muskrat, and will be found very
+efficient.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It consists of a box about eight inches square, one foot in length,
+and open at both ends. In the centre of the top board a hole of the
+diameter of a lead pencil should be bored, and a smaller aperture
+also made in the middle of each end near the edge as seen in the
+accompanying engraving. The spring is next required. This should
+consist of an elastic switch or small pole, three or more feet
+in length. It should be inserted in a slanting auger hole, made
+through the middle of one of the side boards near the bottom at
+the angle shown at (_a_). Should the switch fit loosely it may be
+easily tightened by a small wedge driven in beside it. The bait
+stick (_b_) should be about four inches in length, and large enough
+to fit easily into the hole in the centre of the top board. Next
+procure a stout bit of cord about eight inches in length. Tie one
+[Page 58]
+end to the tip of the switch and provide the other with a large
+double knot. A second knot should then be made, about an inch and
+a half above the first. A piece of sucker wire is the next necessity.
+Its length should be about five feet, and its centre should be tied
+over the uppermost knot in the string. If the bait is now in readiness,
+the trap may be set. Bend down the switch until the end knot will pass
+through the hole in the centre of the board. When it appears in the
+inside of the box, it should then be secured by the insertion of the
+top of the bait stick, as shown at (_b_). This insertion need be only
+very slight, a sixteenth of an inch being all that is sufficient
+to prevent the knot from slipping back. The spring is thus held
+in the position seen in the drawing, and the loose ends of the
+sucker wire should then be passed downward through the small holes
+and arranged in nooses at both openings of the box. Our trap is
+now set, and the unlucky creature which attempts to move that bait
+from either approach, will bring its career to an untimely end.
+The bait stick may be so delicately adjusted as to need only the
+slightest touch to dislodge it. Such a fine setting is to be guarded
+against, however, being as likely to be sprung by a mouse as by
+a larger animal. The setting is easily regulated, being entirely
+dependent upon the slight or firm insertion of the bait stick.
+Among all the "modi operandi" in the construction of traps, there
+is scarcely one more simple than the principle embodied in this
+variety, and there is none more effective.
+
+The box snare already described may be set by the same method,
+and indeed the principle may be applied to almost any trap, from
+the simplest snare described on page (52) to the largest dead-fall.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+GROUND SNARES.
+
+THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is the variety of snare which has been in very common use
+for ages, and has always been the one solitary example of a noose
+trap which our "boys' books" have invariably pounced upon for
+illustration. For the capture of small birds it works very nicely;
+and as without it our list of traps would be incomplete, we will
+give an illustration of it as it appears when
+[Page 59]
+set and ready for its work. In constructing the affair it is first
+necessary to cut a flexible twig of willow or bramble about eighteen
+inches in length, and form it into a loop as seen at (_a_), securing
+the tips by a few circuits of string, and allowing the larger end
+to project an inch or more beyond the other. This loop, which is
+called the "spreader," should now be laid down flat; and on the
+upper side of the large end and about an inch from its tip, a notch
+should be cut as our illustration shows. The spring should next be
+procured, and should consist of a pliant, elastic switch, about
+four feet in length. A piece of fish line about two feet long,
+should now be fastened to the tip of the switch, and the loose
+end of the cord attached to a catch piece of the shape shown at
+(_b_). This catch may be about an inch and a half long, and should
+be whittled off to an edge on one end, the string being attached at
+about its centre. A slipping noose, made from strong horse hair,
+or piece of fine wire about two feet long, should now be fastened
+to the string about two inches above the catch. Having the switch
+thus prepared, it is ready to be inserted in the ground at the place
+selected for the trap. When this is done, another small flexible
+twig about a foot in length should cut, and being sharpened at
+both ends, should be inserted in the ground in the form of an arch
+(_c_), at about three feet distant from the spring, and having its
+broad side toward it. Insert the notch of the spreader exactly
+under the top of the arc, and note the spot where the curved end
+of the former touches the ground. At this point a peg (_d_) should
+be driven leaving a projecting portion of about two inches. The
+[Page 60]
+pieces are now ready to be adjusted. Pass the curved end of the
+spreader over the peg, bringing the notched end beneath the arc with
+the notch uppermost. Draw down the catch piece, and pass it beneath
+the arc from the opposite side letting the bevelled end catch in the
+notch in the spreader, the other end resting against the upper part
+of the arc. Arrange the slipping noose over the spreader as our
+drawing indicates, bringing it _inside_ the peg, as there shown, as
+otherwise it would catch upon it when the snare is sprung. Strew the
+bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or the like, _inside_ the
+spreader, and all is ready. Presently a little bird is seen to settle
+on the ground in the neighborhood of the trap; he spies the bait and
+hopping towards it, gradually makes bold enough to alight upon the
+spreader, which by his weight immediately falls, the catch is released,
+the switch flies up, and the unlucky bird dangles in the air by the
+legs. If the trapper is near he can easily release the struggling
+creature before it is at all injured, otherwise it will flutter
+itself into a speedy death.
+
+
+THE IMPROVED SPRINGLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The accompanying cut illustrates an improvement on the last mentioned
+trap, whereby it can be used for the capture of larger game, and
+with most excellent success. In place of the "spreader" a crotched
+stick is used, the crotch of which catches around the peg, the other
+end being supplied with a notch as in the case of the spreader.
+On the upper side of this stick a small pasteboard platform is
+tacked, over which and beneath which the bait is thrown. Instead
+of the arc, a stout crotch stick is substituted. The noose should
+be at least ten inches in diameter and constructed of sucker wire.
+It should be arranged on the ground around the bait and inside
+of the peg. When the snare is set, the crotched end of the bait
+stick will thus rest near the earth, the notched end only being
+lifted in order to reach the catch piece. It is well to insert
+a few small sticks inside the edge of the noose in order to keep
+it in correct position. If properly set, the quail or partridge
+[Page 61]
+in approaching the trap will have to step _inside_ the noose in order
+to reach the bait, and while thus regaling itself with a choice meal
+of oats, berries, or other delicacies, will be sure to press upon the
+bait stick either by pecking, or treading upon it, and will thus set
+the catch piece free, only to find itself secured by a grasp from
+which he will never escape alive. This is a very effectual snare;
+but on account of its securing its victim by the legs and thus
+torturing them to death, it is to be deprecated. We would recommend
+in preference, those varieties already described as being fully as
+successful, and far less cruel. They effect almost instant death,
+either by broken necks or strangulation, and are in this regard
+among the most humane traps on record.
+
+
+THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+For simplicity in construction there are few snare traps which
+can compare with this variety, although it is somewhat similar
+to those last mentioned, and like them, catches by the feet. The
+trap consists of three pieces. A catch piece about three inches
+long, a bait stick of about six inches, and a stout crotch of the
+proportionate size shown in our illustration, a glance at which
+will make the setting too clear to need description. Be careful
+that the bait stick is set _fine_ and rests _just beneath_ the
+_tip_ of the catch-piece so that a mere touch on the bait will
+release it. Arrange the noose as in the instance last described,
+and bait either as therein directed or with an apple or nubbin
+of corn, as our accompanying cut indicates. Always remembering
+that the noose should be sufficiently large to require the birds
+to step _inside_ of it in order to reach the bait.
+
+
+THE PLATFORM SNARE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This odd invention will be found to work capitally as a game trap,
+and the only extra requisite necessary consists of a slab or light
+board about seven inches wide, and a foot in length. Having selected
+the spot for the trap, proceed to cut a stiff
+[Page 62]
+switch about five feet in length, and having sharpened the larger
+end to a nice point, insert it firmly into the ground in a slanting
+direction as our drawing illustrates. Next bend down the tip of
+the sapling, and resting one end of the board on the ground, catch
+the tip of the switch against the other end, as our illustration
+also shows. A little experimenting will soon determine the right
+place for the board, after which two pegs should be driven in the
+ground at its edge to hold it against the pressure on the opposite
+end. This being done fasten a wire noose to the tip of the switch,
+after which the pen is the only thing required. This should be
+built of simple little twigs arranged around three sides of the
+board, leaving the front end open. To set the snare, lower the
+switch and raising the board slightly at the back end, catch the
+tip of the springer behind it, afterwards arranging the noose over
+the platform, and scattering the bait inside. If the trap has been
+constructed properly and set "fine" it will take but a very slight
+weight on the platform to lower it from its bearing, the weight of
+an ordinary bird being sufficient, and the springer thus released
+will fly forward either catching its victim by the neck or legs,
+as the case may be. It may sometimes be found necessary to cut
+a slight notch in the end of the springer to receive the board,
+but in every case it should be tried several times in order to
+be sure that it works sensitively.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 63]
+[Illustration: TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME]
+
+[Page 65]
+BOOK III.
+
+TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.
+
+[Illustration: A]mong the following will be found the various net
+and cage traps commonly used in the capture of winged game, besides
+several other unique devices in the shape of box traps, etc., many
+of which are original with the author of this work and appear in
+the present volume for the first time in book form. Commonest among
+bird-catching machines, is the well known invention of
+
+
+THE SIEVE TRAP.
+
+This device certainly possesses one great advantage:--_it is not
+complicated_. Any one possessed of a sieve and a piece of string
+can get up the trap at two minutes' notice, and provided he has
+patience, and can wait for his little bird, he is almost sure to
+be rewarded for his pains,--if he wait long enough. This of course
+depends upon circumstances: when the birds are plenty and are not
+shy, it is a common thing to secure three or four at once in a
+very few minutes, while at other times an hour's patient waiting
+is unrewarded.
+
+The trap consists only of a sieve tilted up on edge and thus propped
+in position by a slender stick. To this stick a string or thread is
+attached and the same carried to some near place of concealment,
+when the trapper may retire out of sight and watch for his "little
+bird." The ground beneath the sieve is strewn with bread crumbs,
+seed or other bait, and while the unsuspecting birds are enjoying
+their repast, the string is pulled and they are made prisoners.
+The sieve may be arranged with a spindle as described for the coop
+trap, page (68), and may thus be left to take care of itself. Where
+[Page 66]
+the birds are plenty and easily captured, the former method answers
+the purpose perfectly, but when tedious waiting is likely to ensue
+the self-acting trap is better.
+
+
+THE BRICK TRAP.
+
+This is a very old invention, and has always been one of the three
+or four stereotyped specimens of traps selected for publication in
+all Boys' Books. It is probably well known to most of our readers.
+
+Take four bricks, and arrange them on the ground, as seen in our
+engraving, letting them rest on their _narrow_ sides. If properly
+arranged, they should have a space between them, nearly as large
+as the broad surface of the brick. A small, forked twig of the
+shape shown in the separate drawing (_b_) having a small piece
+cut away from each side of the end, should then be procured. Next
+cut a slender stick, about four inches in length, bluntly pointed
+at each end. A small plug with a flat top should now be driven
+into the ground, inside the trap, about three inches from either
+of the end bricks and projecting about two inches from the ground.
+The trap is then ready to be set. Lay the flat end of the forked
+twig over the top of the plug, with the forks pointing forward,
+or toward the end of the enclosure nearest the plug. The pointed
+stick should then be adjusted, placing one end on the flat end of
+the fork, over the plug, and the other beneath the fifth brick,
+which should be rested upon it. The drawing (_b_) clearly shows
+the arrangement of the pieces. The bait, consisting of berries,
+bird-seed, or other similar substances should then be scattered
+on the ground on the inside of the enclosure. When the bird flies
+[Page 67]
+to the trap he will generally alight on the forked twig, which by
+his weight tilts to one side and dislodges the pieces, thus letting
+fall the sustained brick.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It is not intended to kill the bird, and when rightly constructed
+will capture it alive. Care is necessary in setting the topmost
+brick in such a position that it will fall aright, and completely
+cover the open space. This is a very simple and effectual little
+contrivance, and can be made with a _box_ instead of bricks, if
+desired. A piece of board may also be substituted for the top brick,
+and the enclosure beneath made larger by spreading the bricks further
+apart, thus making a more roomy dungeon for the captive bird.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+THE COOP TRAP.
+
+This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and large
+feathered game, and is used to a considerable extent by trappers
+throughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures its victims
+without harm and furnishes the additional advantage of good ventilation
+for the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary coop may be used in the
+construction of this trap, although the homely one we illustrate
+is most commonly employed on account of its simplicity and easy
+manufacture. It also does away with the troublesome necessity of
+carrying a coop to the trapping ground, as it can be made in a
+very few minutes with common rough hewn twigs by the clever use
+of the jack knife. The only remaining requisites consist of a few
+yards of very stout Indian twine, several small squares of brown
+pasteboard, a dozen tacks and a number of pieces of board five
+inches square, each one having a hole through its centre, as our
+engraving (_b_) indicates. Having these, the young trapper starts
+out with material sufficient for several coops, and if he is smart
+[Page 68]
+will find no difficulty in making and setting a dozen traps in a
+forenoon.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cut
+four stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen inches
+in length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knot
+come on the inside as our illustration (_a_) explains and leaving
+a loose length of about two feet of string from each corner. This
+forms the base of the coop. Next collect from a number of twigs of
+about the same thickness, and from them select two more corresponding
+in length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the base of the coop
+on the ground, and collected the strings inside proceed to lay
+the two selected sticks across the ends of the
+[Page 69]
+uppermost two of the square, and directly above the lower two.
+Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cut
+and laid across the ends of the last two, and directly above the
+second set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of equal
+size, one directly over the other. The next pair of sticks should
+be a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be placed a
+little inside the square. Let the next two be of the same size as
+the last and also rest a little inside of those beneath them, thus
+forming the commencement of the conical shape which our engraving
+presents. By thus continuing alternate layers of the two sticks
+cob-house fashion, each layer being closer than the one previous,
+the pyramid will be easily and quickly formed. After ten or a dozen
+sets have been laid in place, the arm should be introduced into
+the opening at the top, and the four cords drawn out, letting each
+one lay along its inside corner of the pyramid. Taking the strings
+loosely in the left hand and having the twigs in readiness, proceed
+to build up the sides until the opening at the top is reduced to
+only four or five inches across. The square board will now come
+into play. Pass the ends of the cords through the hole in its centre
+and rest the edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, taking
+care that it is the tip of the grain of the wood instead of its
+side, as otherwise it would be likely to crack from the pressure
+that is about to be brought upon it. Have ready a stout peg of
+hard wood, and laying it over the hole in the board, and between
+the strings, proceed to tie the latter as tightly as possible over
+it. By now turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightened
+and the various pieces of the coops will be drawn together with
+great firmness, in which state they may be secured by the aid of
+a tack driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shown
+at (_b_). Thus we have a neat and serviceable coop, which will
+last for many seasons. To _set_ the affair it is necessary to cut
+three sticks of the shapes shown in our illustration. The prop
+piece is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length from
+the tip to the base of the crotch. The spindle is another hooked
+twig of the same length: the bait piece is quite similar to the
+latter, only an inch shorter and supplied with a square notch at
+the tip. It is also slightly whittled off on the upper side to
+receive the square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold the bait
+and which may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of these
+twigs may be easily found in any thicket by a little practice in
+searching. In setting the trap, it is only necessary to raise up
+one side of the coop to the height of the prop stick, insert the
+[Page 70]
+short arm of the spindle through the fork and beneath the edge of
+the coop. While holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of the
+bait stick around the lower piece at the back of the coop, and
+pushing the end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the notch
+of the bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to be
+baited. The bait may consist of oats, wheat, "nannie berries" or the
+like, and should be strewn both on the platform and over the ground
+directly _beneath_ and around it. If properly set, a mere peck at the
+corn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the coop will fall
+over its captive. It is not an uncommon thing to find two or even
+three quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one fall, and after
+the first momentary fright is over, they seem to resign themselves
+to their fate and take to their confinement as naturally as if
+they had been brought up to it.
+
+The method of setting the coop trap above described is a great
+improvement on the old style of setting, and is an improvement
+original with the author of this work. In the old method a semi-circular
+hoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick above. The ends
+of the rattan are fastened to one of the lower back pieces of the
+coop, and the hoop is just large enough to fit inside the opening of
+the coop. This rattan rests just above the ground, and the spindle
+catches against its inside edge in place of the notch in the bait
+stick already described, the bait being scattered inside the hoop.
+When the bird approaches, it steps upon the rattan, and thus pressing
+it downward releases the spindle and the coop falls; but experience
+has shown the author that it does not always secure its intruders,
+but as often falls upon their backs and sends them off limping
+to regain their lost senses. By the author's improvement it will
+be seen that the whole body of the bird _must_ be _beneath_ the
+coop before the bait sticks can be reached and that when properly
+set it is absolutely certain to secure its victim. The author can
+recommend it as infallible, and he feels certain that anyone giving
+both methods a fair trial will discard the old method as worthless
+in comparison.
+
+
+THE BAT FOWLING NET.
+
+With English bird-catchers this contrivance is in common use, but
+so far as we know it has not been utilized to any great extent in
+this country. It is chiefly used at night by the aid of a lantern,
+and large numbers of sparrows and other birds are often secured.
+
+[Page 71]
+[Illustration]
+
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the net, which may be
+constructed as follows: Procure two light flexible poles, about
+eight feet in length; to the tip of each a cord should be attached,
+and the same secured to the middle of the pole, having drawn down
+the tip to the bend, shown in our engraving. The two bent ends
+should now be attached together by a hinge of leather. A piece
+of mosquito netting is next in order, and it should be of such
+a size as to cover the upper bent halves of the poles, as seen
+in the illustration--the bottom edge being turned up into a bag,
+about ten inches in depth. The contrivance is now complete, and is
+used as follows: Three persons are generally required, and a dark
+night is chosen. Hay stacks, evergreens, and thick bushes offer a
+favorite shelter to numerous small birds, and it is here that they
+are sought by the bird-hunters. A breezy night is preferable, as
+the birds perch low, and are not so easily startled by unusual
+sounds.
+
+Great caution, however, is used in the approach. One party holds
+the light, which is generally a _dark_ lantern, another takes the
+net, and the third arms himself with a switch with which to beat
+the bushes. The net is first held upright about a foot from the
+bush, and the light thrown upon the back of it. The bush is then
+moderately beaten, and the birds affrighted and bewildered fly against
+the net, which is instantly closed. The bird is thus captured, and
+when a full roost can be discovered a large number may be taken
+in a single night. The lantern should be closed while not in actual
+use, and everything should be done as quietly as possible. The
+dark lantern in itself is useful without the net. The light often
+so bewilders the bird that it flies directly in the face of the
+lantern and flutters to the ground, where it may be easily taken
+with the hand.
+
+
+[Page 72]
+THE CLAP NET.
+
+In Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, this trap is a common
+resource for the capture of wild birds of various kinds. It may be
+called a "decoy" trap, from the fact that "call birds" are generally
+used in connection with it. They are placed at distances around the
+trap, and attract the wild birds to the spot by their cries. These
+birds are especially trained for the purpose, but almost any tamed
+bird that chirps will attract its mates from the near neighborhood,
+and answer the purpose very well. Sometimes the "decoys" are entirely
+dispensed with, and the "bird whistle" used in their stead. This
+will be described hereafter, and inasmuch as the training of a
+"decoy" would be a rather difficult matter, we rather recommend
+the use of the bird whistle. The skill and absolute perfection of
+mimicry which is often attained by bird fanciers. with the use
+of this little whistle, is something surprising.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+No matter what the species of bird--whether crow, bobolink, thrush
+or sparrow, the song or call is so exactly imitated as to deceive
+the most experienced naturalist, and even various birds themselves.
+Of course this requires practice, but even a tyro may soon learn
+to use the whistle to good advantage.
+
+The clap net commonly used, is a large contrivance--so large that
+several hundred pigeons are often caught at once. It is "sprung"
+by the bird-hunter, who lies in ambush watching for the game. The
+net is generally constructed as follows, and may be made smaller
+if desired:--
+
+[Page 73]
+Procure two pieces of strong thread netting, each about fifteen
+feet in length, and five feet in width. Four wooden rods one inch
+in thickness and five feet in length are next required. These may
+be constructed of pine, ash, or any other light wood, and one should
+be securely whipped to each end of the netting.
+
+Now by the aid of a gimlet or a red-hot iron, the size of a slate
+pencil, bore a hole through one end of every piece one inch from
+the tip, taking care that the ends selected lay on the same side of
+the net. The other extremities of the four poles should be supplied,
+each with a large screw eye. Four pegs are next in order--one of
+which is shown separate at (_P_). It should be about eight inches
+in length, and three inches in width, and an inch in thickness, and
+sharpened to a point at one end. The other end should be supplied
+with a notch two inches in depth and of such a width as will easily
+secure the perforated end of one of the poles already described.
+By the use of the gimlet or a red-hot nail, a hole should now be
+bored through the side of every peg across the centre of the notch
+for the reception of a wire pin or smooth nail.
+
+The nets may now be rolled up on the poles, and the trapper may
+thus easily carry them to his selected trapping ground. This should
+be smooth and free from stones and irregularities. Unroll the nets
+and spread them flatly on the ground, as seen in the illustration.
+Let the perforated ends of the poles be innermost, and allow a
+space of six feet between the inner edges of the nets. Draw the
+net flatly on the ground, and drive one of the notched pegs at
+each of the inside corners, securing the poles into the slots by
+the aid of the wire pins or nails. Next cut four stakes eight or
+ten inches long. The places for these may be seen by a look at
+our engraving. Each one should be inserted _five feet_ distant
+from the notched peg, and _exactly_ on a line with the _inside_
+edge of the net--one for each corner. They should slant from the
+net in every case. To each one of these stakes a stay-rope should
+be secured, and the other end passed through the screw eye of the
+nearest pole, drawing the string tightly, so as to stretch the net
+perfectly square. Next, take a piece of cord, about twenty feet
+in length, and fasten it across the ends of the net into the screw
+eyes in the poles. This is the loop to which the draw-string is
+attached, and either end of the net may be chosen for this purpose.
+To this loop and a _little one side of the middle_, the draw-string
+should be fastened. If secured exactly in the middle of the loop,
+the two nets will _strike_ when the draw-rope is pulled, whereas
+[Page 74]
+when adjusted a little to one side, the nearest net will move a
+trifle faster than the other, and they will overlap neatly and without
+striking--completely covering the ground between them. When the
+trap is spread the draw-rope should extend to some near shelter
+where the bird-catcher may secrete himself from view. Spreading the
+bait on the ground between the nets, and arranging his call birds
+at the proper distances, he awaits his opportunity of springing
+his nets. At the proper minute, when the ground is dotted with his
+game, he pulls the draw-string, and the birds are secured.
+
+Immense numbers of wild fowl are often captured in this way.
+
+The "bird whistle," already alluded to, is often used with good
+effect, it being only sufficient to attract the birds to such a
+proximity to the net as will enable them to spy the bait, after
+which their capture is easily effected.
+
+
+THE BIRD WHISTLE.
+
+This instrument, also known as the prairie whistle, is clearly
+shown in our illustration. It is constructed as follows: First,
+procure a piece of morocco or thin leather. From it cut a circular
+piece one inch and a quarter in diameter. Through the centre of
+this disc, cut a round hole, one-third of an inch in diameter. A
+semi-circular piece of tin is next required. It should be of the
+shape of an arc, as seen in our illustration; its width across
+the ends being about three-quarters of an inch, and its entire
+length being pierced with a row of fine holes. Next procure a piece
+of thin sheet India rubber or gold beater's skin. Cut a strip about
+an inch in length by half an inch in width, and lay one of its long
+edges directly across the opening in the leather disc. Fold the
+leather in half (over the rubber), and draw the latter tightly. Next
+lay on the arc of tin in the position shown in the illustration, and
+by the aid of a fine needle and thread sew it through the holes,
+including both leather and rubber in the stitches. When this is
+done, the whistle is complete. If the gold beater's skin is not
+attainable, a good substitute may be found in the thin outer membrane
+of the leaf of a tough onion or leak, the pulp being scraped away.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 75]
+To use the whistle, place it against the roof of the mouth, tin
+side up, and with the edge of the rubber towards the front. When
+once wet, it will adhere to the roof of the mouth, and by skilful
+blowing, it can be made to send forth a most surprising variety
+of sounds. The quack of the duck and the song of the thrush may
+be made to follow each other in a single breath, and the squeal
+of a pig or the neigh of a horse are equally within its scope. In
+short, there is scarcely any animal, whether bird or quadruped,
+the cry of which may not be easily imitated by a skilful use of
+the prairie whistle, or, indeed, as it might with propriety be
+called, the "menagerie whistle."
+
+
+THE WILD GOOSE TRAP.
+
+In our northern cold regions, where the wild geese and ptarmigan
+flock in immense numbers, this trap is commonly utilized. It consists
+merely of a large net fifty feet in length, and fifteen in width,
+arranged on a framework, and propped in a slanting position by
+two poles, after the manner of the sieve trap. It is generally
+set on the ice; and the trapper, after attaching his strings to
+the props, and sprinkling his bait at the foot of the net, retires
+to a distance to await his chances. Tame geese are often used as
+decoys, and sometimes the bird whistle already described is used
+for the same purpose. For the capture of the ptarmigan, the bait
+consists of a heap of gravel. It is hard to imagine a less tempting
+allurement, but as the food of the birds during the winter is sapless
+and hard, it becomes necessary for them to swallow a considerable
+amount of gravel to promote digestion. The great depth of the snow
+renders this commodity very scarce during the winter season; and
+the Indians, taking advantage of this fact, succeed in capturing
+immense numbers of the game in nets by the use of that simple
+allurement. The gravel is packed on the surface of a pile of snow,
+placed under the centre of the net, and the draw-string is carried
+to some neighboring shrubbery or place of concealment, where the
+trapper can always get at it without being seen by the birds under
+the net.
+
+When everything is thus prepared, the hunters start out into the
+adjacent woods and willows, and drive their game toward the nets.
+This is generally an easy matter, and, no sooner do the birds come
+in sight of the heap of gravel, than they fly towards it _en masse_,
+and the ground beneath the net is soon covered with the hungry game.
+[Page 76]
+The hunter then goes to the end of the line, and, with a sudden pull,
+hauls down the stakes: the net fans over the birds, and they are
+prisoners.
+
+Hundreds of ptarmigan are often thus caught by a single sweep of
+the net. The trap is simply arranged, and may be constructed on
+a reduced scale for smaller birds, if desired.
+
+
+THE TRAP CAGE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Among bird-catchers generally, this is the favorite and most universal
+trap; and, where a _decoy_ bird is used, it is particularly successful.
+The cage is arranged in two compartments,
+[Page 77]
+one above the other,--the lower one being occupied by the call-birds.
+The making of the cage requires considerable ingenuity and much
+patience; and, for the benefit of those who may desire to exercise
+that patient ingenuity, we will subjoin a few hints, which may
+help them along in their efforts. For an ordinary cage, the height
+should be about one foot, the broad sides the same, and the top
+and other two sides eight inches. First cut four corner uprights.
+These should be three-quarters of an inch square, and one foot in
+length. Next cut a bottom board of pine, twelve inches by eight
+inches, and one inch in thickness. From each of its corners, cut a
+small cube of the wood, exactly three-quarters of an inch square,
+thus leaving four notches, which will exactly receive the ends of
+the uprights, as seen at (_a_). Before adjusting these pieces,
+the four sides of the boards should be pierced with small holes,
+as is also shown in the diagram (_a_). These may be punched with a
+brad-awl, and should be about half an inch apart, and three-eighths
+of an inch from the edge of the board. Each one of the uprights
+may then be secured in place by two long brads, one being hammered
+each way into each side of the notch. Next proceed to cut four more
+of the square sticks. Two of these should be one foot in length,
+and the remaining two eight inches. The corners of these should
+now be neatly bevelled off, so as to fit after the manner of a
+picture-frame. They should then be attached to
+[Page 78]
+the upper ends of the uprights by a brad through the corner of
+each, as seen at (_b_), the dotted lines indicating the end of
+the upright beneath. These sticks should likewise be pierced with
+holes to correspond with those in the bottom board, and running
+up and down in the direction of the wires.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The middle tier of braces are next required. Two of these should be
+ten and a half inches in length, and the other two six and a-half,
+and the ends should be perfectly smooth. These should now be punched
+with holes corresponding with those above, after which they may
+be inserted between the uprights as seen in the engraving, and
+secured by a brad at each end.
+
+The trap door is shown separate at (_c_). The side sticks should
+be eight inches in length, and one-half an inch square, and the
+top and bottom sticks five inches in length. They should be set
+in _between_ the side sticks, and the lower one should be secured
+about half an inch above the lower ends of the uprights, as seen
+in the illustration. The holes should be made in the side pieces,
+and the wire run across from side to side, as shown. Annealed iron,
+or copper wire is best for this purpose. The door should now be
+pivoted or hinged at the top of the cage, between the long sides,
+in such a position as that the top end shall rest on one of the
+narrow upper edges of the cage. A stiff wire should be used for
+the hinge, being passed through the top pieces of the cage into the
+lower ends of the door pieces. The cage may now be wired throughout.
+This is an easy matter, if the holes are properly made. About thirty
+yards of the wire will be required: iron wire is generally used.
+It should be about the size of a hair-pin, and should work easily.
+Commence by passing it from the under side of the bottom board
+through one of the holes next to the corner. Pass the wire upward,
+through the centre braces, again upward through the top piece and
+across to the opposite broad side and corresponding hole. From
+this point it should pass downwards, through centre brace, and
+again through the bottom. Draw the wire tightly and passing it
+upward through the hole next to it, bring it over the top of the
+cage and around again to the bottom edge from which it started.
+Continue thus until the hinge of the door is reached; after which
+the wire should be passed up and down on the same side and thus
+carried around the small end of the cage until it finally meets
+at the door hinge on the opposite side. The two halves of the cage
+should now be separated by a grating of wire, as seen in the main
+[Page 79]
+illustration. This may be accomplished either by passing the wire
+from side to side, around the base of each upright wire, or an
+additional horizontal row of holes below the others may be punched
+for the purpose. The door through which the call-bird is introduced
+should next be made in the bottom section. There are two ways of
+doing this: one method consists in sawing a hole three inches square
+in the bottom board of the cage; and a cover consisting of a piece
+of tin is made to slide beneath the heads of four tacks, two of which
+are placed on each side of the opening. This form of door is perhaps
+the simplest of the two. The other is shown separate at (_f_),
+together with its mode of attachment.
+
+It consists of two side pieces of wood, about a third of an inch
+square, and three inches in length, and two shorter ones, two inches
+in length. These are arranged into a square framework by a board
+in each corner. Four holes are to be pierced in each side piece,
+at equal distances. Commencing at the top, the door should then
+be wired as directed for the cage. The lowest hole on each side
+should be left open for a separate piece of wire. The cage should
+now receive attention. The broad side is generally selected for
+the door. Find the seven centre wires and connect them across the
+middle by another horizontal bit of wire. This may be easily done
+with a pair of pincers, by compressing a loop at each end of the
+wire around the two which run perpendicularly at its ends. When this
+is performed the five intermediate wires should be cut off about
+a quarter of an inch below the horizontal wire, and the projecting
+tips looped back over the cross piece, and made fast by the pincers.
+The lower parts of the upright wires may now be cut off close to the
+board. We will now take up the door. Pass a piece of wire through
+the holes at the bottom, clap the door over the opening, and loop
+the ends of the projecting wire loosely around the upright wires
+at each side. This will allow the door to slide easily up and down.
+Another wire should now be interlaced downwards through the centre
+of the door, and bent into a ring at the top. Let the door rest
+on the bottom of the cage, and, while in this position, adjust
+the ring at the top around the central wire directly behind it.
+The door is then complete, and, if properly made, will look neat
+and work easily.
+
+The "trap" at the top of the cage is next in order. To complete
+this it is first necessary to interweave a _stiff_ wire loop, as
+seen at (_d_). The loop should extend on the _inside_ of the lower
+piece of the door and about two inches below it. The
+[Page 80]
+_spring_ power consists of a piece of stiff hoop-skirt wire, interwoven
+between the wires of the top of the cage, and those of the door,
+while the latter is shut. The force of this will be sufficient
+to bring down the door with a snap; and for further security a
+catch, such as is described in page (88), may be added if desired.
+
+The spindle is next required. This is shown at (_g_), and consists
+of a small perch of wood seven inches in length, and notched at
+each end. In setting the trap, the door should be raised as seen
+in the main illustration. One of the notches in the spindle should
+now be caught beneath the loop and the other around one of the
+central wires in the end of the cage. The bait, consisting of a
+berry, bird-seed, or what-not, may be either fastened to the spindle
+or placed beneath on the wires. The call-bird having been introduced,
+the trap may now be left to itself. If the call-bird is well trained
+it will not be many minutes before the birds of the neighborhood will
+be attracted to the spot by its cries. Ere long one less cautious
+than the rest will be seen to perch upon the top of the cage. He
+soon discovers the bait, and alighting upon the perch, throws it
+asunder, and in an instant the trap door closes over its captive.
+The cage is sometimes constructed double, having two compartments
+beneath for call-birds, and two traps above, in general resembling
+two of the single traps placed side by side. The decoy bird is not
+an absolute necessity to the success of the trap. Many birds are
+caught simply by the bait alone. The trap cage, when constructed
+on a larger scale, is often successfully employed in the capture
+of the owl. In this case it is baited with a live mouse or bird,
+and set during the evening in a conspicuous place. A trap working
+on this principle, being especially adapted to the capture of the
+owl, will be noticed hereafter.
+
+
+THE SPRING NET TRAP.
+
+Although slightly complicated in construction, our next illustration
+presents one of the prettiest bird traps on record, and may be
+made in the following manner, and by frequently referring to the
+picture, our explanation will be easily understood.
+
+The first step is to make or procure a low flat box, about fifteen
+inches long, by ten inches in width, with a depth of about two
+inches. Next fasten an interior box, of the same
+[Page 81]
+height, leaving a space of about three-quarters of an inch between
+them all round. A platform should now be made. Let it be of such a
+size that it will just fit in the interior box, with a very slight
+space all around its edge. It should then be pivoted in the upper
+part of this box by two small slender pins, one being driven through
+into its edge, at the centre of each end. Let it be sensitively
+poised. The next thing to be done, is to arrange the spindle and
+catch. The latter should consist of a tack or small bit of wood
+fastened on the middle of the platform, about an inch from one
+end, as seen both in the main illustration and in the diagram at
+(_b_).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The spindle should consist of a flat piece of wood, secured with
+a leather hinge to the edge of the outside box, directly opposite
+the catch. Let it be long enough to reach and barely hold itself
+beneath the catch. When thus in its position, two small plugs should
+next be driven into the edge of the inner box, one on each side of
+the spindle, thus holding it in place. A glance at our illustration
+makes this clear. The netting and "hoop" are next in order. The hoop
+should consist of an iron wire of the diameter of common telegraph
+wire.
+
+For a box of the size we have given, a length of about twenty-eight
+inches will be found to answer. Before making the hoop, however,
+its hinges should be ready for it. Two screw eyes, or staples of
+bent wire should be driven into the bottom of the box between the
+two walls, one in the exact middle of each side. The iron wire
+should now be bent so as to fit round and settle into the space
+between the boxes, letting each end rest
+[Page 82]
+over the screws in the bottom. It will be found that there will
+be enough surplus wire on each end to form into a loop with the
+pincers. These loops should be passed through the screws or rings
+already inserted, and then pinched together; the hinge will thus
+be made, and will appear as at (_c_). If properly done, they should
+allow the hoop to pass freely from one end of the box to the other,
+and settle easily between the partitions. If this hinge should
+prove too complicated for our young readers, they may resort to
+another method, which, although not so durable, will answer very
+well. In this case the wire will only need to reach to the exact
+middle of the long sides. No surplus being necessary, a length
+of twenty-six inches will be exactly right. On each end a short
+loop of tough Indian twine should be tied. By now fastening these
+loops to the bottom of the box with tacks, in the place of screws,
+it will form a hinge which will answer the purpose of the more
+complicated one.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The netting should consist of common mosquito gauze, or, if this
+cannot be had, any thin cloth may be substituted. It should be
+sewed fast to the iron wire, from hinge to hinge, and then, with
+the hoops resting in its groove, the netting should be drawn over the
+platform, and tacked to the bottom of the groove, on its remaining
+half. It should rest loosely over the platform to allow plenty of
+space for the bird.
+
+But one more addition, and the trap is finished. We have mentioned
+the use of elastics in other varieties: they are of equal use here,
+and should be attached to the hoop as seen at (_a_) in the section
+drawing, the remaining ends being fastened to the bottom of the
+groove, as there indicated. These elastics should be placed on
+both sides, and stretched to such a tension as will draw the hoop
+quickly from one side to the other.
+
+It will now be easy to set the trap. Draw the hoop back to the
+opposite end, tucking the netting into the groove; lower the spindle
+over it, resting it between the two little plugs, and securing
+its end beneath the catch on the platform. If the bait,
+[Page 83]
+consisting of bread-crumbs, berries, insects, or the like, be now
+sprinkled on the platform, the trap is ready for its feathered
+victim. It will easily be seen that the slightest weight on _either_
+side of this poised platform will throw the catch from the end of
+the spindle, and release the hoop and the platform in an instant
+is covered by the net, capturing whatever unlucky little bird may
+have chanced to jump upon it. This is a very pretty little trap,
+and will well repay the trouble of making it.
+
+
+A SIMPLER NET TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Much ingenuity has been displayed in the construction of bird traps
+of various kinds, but often the ingenuity has been misplaced, and
+the result has been so complicated as to mar its usefulness for
+practical purposes. The examples of net traps presented in this
+volume are so simple that the merest tyro can readily understand
+them. What can be more so than the present example, and yet it
+is as sure in its effect, and _surer_ than those other varieties
+of more complicated construction. One necessary element in a trap
+of any kind is, that the bearings are slight and that they spring
+easily. To obtain this requisite it is necessary to overcome friction
+as much as possible, using only a small number of pieces, and having
+as few joints and hinges only as are absolutely necessary. The present
+variety possesses advantages on this account. It is constructed
+somewhat on the principle of the ordinary steel trap, and also
+resembles in other respects the one we have just described, although
+much simpler. We give only a section drawing, as this will be
+sufficient. The long side of a flat board of about eight by sixteen
+inches is shown at (_a_); (_b_) indicates the loops of a bent wire,
+to which the netting is attached, as in the trap just described,
+[Page 84]
+the loops being fastened to the board as in the other variety;
+(_g_) consists of a small bit of wood an inch or so in length and
+half an inch in width. It should be tacked on to the middle of
+the one end of the board and project about a half inch above the
+surface. To the top of this the spindle (_c_) should be attached
+by a leather or staple hinge. The spindle should be of light pine,
+five inches in length and a quarter of an inch square, bevelled;
+on the under side of one end (_d_) is the catch or bait piece,
+and should be whittled out of a shingle or pine stick of the shape
+shown, the width being about a half an inch or less. One side should
+be supplied with a slight notch for the reception of the spindle,
+and the other should project out two or three inches, being covered
+on the top with a little platform of pasteboard, tin, or thin wood
+either glued or tacked in place. To attach this piece to the main
+board, two small wire staples may be used, one being inserted into
+the bottom end of the piece and the other being hooked through
+it, and afterward tacked to the bottom of the trap, thus forming
+a loop hinge. Another method is to make a hole through the lower
+tip of the bait piece by the aid of a red-hot wire, as seen at
+(_d_), afterwards inserting a pin and overlapping its ends with
+two staples driven into the bottom board, as shown at (_e_). In
+our last mentioned net trap the spring power consisted of rubber
+elastic, and the same may be used in this case, if desired, but by
+way of variety we here introduce another form of spring which may
+be successfully employed in the construction of traps of various
+kinds. It is shown at (_o_) and consists merely of a piece of tempered
+hoop iron, so bent as to act with an upward pressure. It should be
+about three inches long by half an inch wide. About three-quarters
+of an inch should be allowed for the two screws by which it is to
+be attached to the board. The rest should be bent upward and thus
+tempered by first heating almost to redness, and then cooling in
+cold water.
+
+One of these springs should be fastened to the board on each side,
+directly under the wire and quite near the hinge, in the position
+shown in the main drawing. Now draw back the net, lower the spindle
+and catch its extremity in the notch of the bait piece, and the trap
+is set as in our illustration. Sprinkle the bait on the platform,
+and lay the machine on the ground where birds are known to frequent;
+and it is only a matter of a few hours or perhaps minutes, before it
+will prove its efficacy. In order to prevent the bird from raising
+the wire and thereby escaping, it is well to fasten a little tin
+[Page 85]
+catch (_f_) at the end of the board. This will spring over the wire
+and hold it in its place.
+
+
+THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.
+
+The following is another novelty in the way of a bird-trap, somewhat
+similar to the one we have just described, in its manner of working.
+
+Procure two pieces of board about a foot square. Nail one to the
+edge of the other, as represented in our engraving. A stout wire
+is the next requisite. It should be about thirty inches long, and
+bent either into a curve or into two corners, making three equal
+sides. Each end of the wire should then be bent into a very small
+loop for the hinge. On to this wire the netting should then be
+secured as in the two previous examples, after which the ends of
+the wire may be tied with string or hinged on wire staples into
+the angle of the two boards, as seen in our illustration. Allow
+the wire now to lie flat on the bottom board, and then proceed
+to tack the netting around the edges of the upright board. Two
+elastics should next be fastened to the wire on each side, securing
+their loose ends to the bottom of the trap. They should be tightly
+drawn so as to bring the wire down with a snap. The spindle of
+this trap should be about eight or nine inches long, square and
+slender,--the lower end being flattened, and the upper end secured
+to the top edge of the upright board by a hinge of leather or string.
+An excellent hinge may be made with a piece of leather an inch
+and a half long, by half an inch in width, one half of the length
+being tied around the end of the spindle, and the other tacked
+on to the upper edge of the board.
+
+The platform is given by itself at (_a_) in the same picture. It
+may be made of very thin wood--cigar box wood, for instance, or
+even thick pasteboard. It consists of three pieces. The piece which
+is hinged into the angle of the boards should be about three inches
+in length; the platform piece ought not to be more than four inches
+square, and the upright piece only long enough to reach the tip of
+the spindle when the platform is raised, as shown in our engraving.
+The hinge piece should be cut to an edge on that end where the
+leather is fastened, the opposite end being bevelled off in order
+that the platform may rest and be tacked or glued firmly upon it.
+The diagram (_a_) will make this all very clear.
+
+When the platform is all made and fastened in its place, the
+[Page 86]
+trap may be set. Draw the hoop back as far as possible, and lower
+the spindle over its edge, catching it behind the upright stick on
+the platform. If the trap is properly constructed, the pressure
+of the spindle on the platform will suffice to hold it up as seen
+in our illustration. The upright stick on the back of the platform
+should never be more than an inch and a half from the back of the
+trap. If need be, a slight notch may be made in the end of the
+spindle and a small tack driven into the back of the upright stick
+to correspond to it. By thus fitting the notch under the head of the
+tack, it will be sure to hold the platform in the right position.
+But it should be carefully tested before setting, to see that it
+springs easily.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When thus set sprinkle the bait on the platform, scattering a little
+also on the bottom of the trap and on the ground directly around it.
+The little birds will soon spy the tempting morsels, and alighting
+on the trap are misled, and the slightest peck or pressure on the
+platform where the bait is most bounteously spread brings down the
+wire and net with a _snap_, and the little creature is secured
+without harm.
+
+[Illustration: Method 2.]
+
+Our next illustration shows another method of constructing the platform.
+It should be about three or four inches square,
+[Page 87]
+and on the middle of one of its edges the upright catch piece should
+be fastened. This piece, as will be seen in our engraving, should
+be cut spreading at the bottom so as to admit of being secured to
+the platform by two brads, the tip being cut to a point. The total
+length of this piece should not be over two and a half inches. When
+tacked in place, a third brad should be inserted between the other
+two and exactly in the centre of the side of the platform. This
+latter brad is to act as the pivot, or hinge, and should project
+about a quarter of an inch, as seen at (_a_). On the opposite edge
+of the platform another larger brad should be driven, having its
+end filed to a blunt point, as in (_b_). If the filing would be
+too tedious, a plug of hard wood of the required shape would answer
+every purpose. The upright props which support the platform should
+be cut of thin wood. Let one be an inch and a half long and half
+an inch wide, the other being an inch in length. Each should have
+one end whittled to a point, which will admit of its being inserted
+in a gimlet hole in the bottom of the trap. These gimlet holes
+should be made at least half an inch in depth. Make the first at
+about an inch or so from the back of the trap. Into this insert
+the shorter pieces, broadside front. Lay the pivot brad of the
+platform on the top of this piece and insert over it a small wire
+staple, as seen at (_a_). Elevate the platform evenly and determine
+the spot for the other gimlet hole, which should be directly beneath
+the point of the filed brad. Be sure that it is in the middle of
+the board, so that the platform may set squarely, and be perfectly
+parallel with the sides. Insert the remaining prop in its place,
+and the platform is complete. The overhanging spindle now requires a
+little attention. This should be whittled off on each side, bringing
+it to a point at the tip. On each side of the spindle a long plug
+should then be driven into the back piece, as our illustration
+shows. These should be far enough apart to allow the spindle to
+pass easily between them. The _setting_ of the trap is plainly shown
+[Page 88]
+in our engraving. The spindle being lowered between the plugs is caught
+finely on the tip of the catch-piece. The blunt point at the opposite
+end of the platform should have a slight hollow made for it in the
+prop against which it presses. If the platform be now strewn with
+bait, the little machine is ready. It is certainly very simple and
+will be found very effective.
+
+
+THE BOX OWL TRAP.
+
+The use of a box trap for the capture of an owl is certainly an
+odd idea, but we nevertheless illustrate a contrivance which has
+been successfully used for that purpose.
+
+The box in this case should be of the proportions shown in our
+engraving, and well ventilated with holes, as indicated. (This
+ventilation is, by-the-way, a good feature to introduce in _all_
+traps.) Having made or selected a suitable box--say, fourteen or
+more inches wide, provided with a cover, working on a hinge--proceed
+to fasten on the outside of the lid a loop of stiff wire, bent in
+the shape shown at (_e_). This may be fastened to the cover by
+means of small staples, or even tacks, and should project over
+the edge about two inches. When this is done, the lid should be
+raised to the angle shown in our illustration, and the spot where
+the end of the wire loop touches the back of the box should be
+marked and a slit cut through the wood at this place, large enough
+for the angle of the loop to pass through. Two elastics should
+now be fastened to the inside of the box, being secured to the
+bottom at the side, and the other to the edge of the cover, as
+seen in the illustration. They should be sufficiently strong to
+draw down the cover quickly. The perch, or spindle, should consist
+of a light stick of wood, as shown at (_b_,) one end provided with
+a slight notch, and the other fastened to the inside of the front
+of the box by a string or leather hinge, (_c_,) keeping the notch on
+the _upper_ side of the stick. It will be now seen that by opening
+the cover, until the loop enters through the groove, and by then
+hooking the notch in the spindle _under_ the loop as seen at (_a_)
+the trap will be set, and if properly done it will be found that a
+very slight weight on the spindle will set it free from the loop
+and let the cover down with swiftness.
+
+To secure the cover in place a small tin catch should now be applied
+to the front edge of the box, as shown in the illustration. A piece
+of tin two inches in length by a half an inch in breadth will answer
+for this purpose. One end should be bent
+[Page 89]
+down half an inch at a pretty sharp angle, and the other attached
+by two tacks, to the edge of the box, in the position shown in
+the cut. This precaution will effectually prevent the escape of
+whatever bird, large or small, the trap may chance to secure. It
+is a necessary feature of the trap, as without it the elastics
+might be torn asunder and the lid thereby easily raised.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This trap may be baited in a variety of ways. As it is particularly
+designed for a _bird_ trap, it is well to sprinkle the bottom of
+the box with berries, bird-seed, small insects, such as crickets,
+grasshoppers, etc. These latter are very apt to jump out, and it
+may be well to fasten one or two of them to the bottom with a pin
+through the body, just behind the head.
+
+There are many kinds of birds which live almost exclusively on
+insects; and as this bait is of rather a lively kind, there is
+scarcely any other method to retain them in their position. A bird
+on approaching this trap will almost irresistibly alight on the
+perch, and if not at _first_, it is generally sure to do so before
+long. If desired, a pasteboard platform may be fastened on the
+[Page 90]
+top of the perch with small tacks, and the bait scattered upon
+it. This will act in the same manner, and might, perhaps, be a
+trifle more certain. We will leave it to our readers to experiment
+upon.
+
+We have given this variety the name of "owl-trap," because it may
+be used with success in this direction. When set for this purpose,
+it should be baited with a live mouse, small rat or bird, either
+fastened to the bottom of the trap, if a bird, or set in with the
+trap inclosing it, if a mouse. A small bird is the preferable bait,
+as it may be easily fastened to the bottom of the box by a string,
+and as a general thing is more sure to attract the attention of
+the owl by its chirping.
+
+The trap should be set in an open, conspicuous spot, in the neighborhood
+where the owls in the night are heard to "hoot." The chances are
+that the box will contain an owl on the following morning.
+
+This bird is a very interesting and beautiful creature, and if our
+young reader could only catch one, and find rats and mice enough
+to keep it well fed, he would not only greatly diminish the number
+of rats in his neighborhood, but he would realize a great deal
+of enjoyment in watching and studying the habits of the bird.
+
+Should it be difficult to supply the above mentioned food, raw
+meat will answer equally well. The bird should either be kept in
+a cage or inclosure and in the latter case, its wings will require
+to be clipped.
+
+
+THE BOX BIRD TRAP.
+
+Here we have another invention somewhat resembling the foregoing.
+Our engraving represents the arrangement of the parts as the trap
+appears when set.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The box may be of almost any shape. A large sized cigar box has
+been used with excellent success, and for small birds is just the
+thing. The cover of the box in any case should work on a hinge of
+some sort. The trap is easily made. The first thing to be done
+is to cut an upright slot, about two inches in length, through
+the centre of the backboard, commencing at the upper edge. To the
+inside centre edge of the cover a small square strap, about four
+inches in length, should then be secured. It should be so adjusted
+as that one-half shall project toward the inside of the box, as
+seen in the illustration, and at the same time pass easily through
+[Page 91]
+the slot beneath where the cover is closed. The lid should now be
+supplied with elastics as described in the foregoing. Next in order
+comes the bait stick. Its shape is clearly shown in our illustration,
+and it may be either cut in one piece or consist of two parts joined
+together at the angle. To the long arm the bait should be attached
+and the upright portion should be just long enough to suspend the
+cover in a position on a line with the top of the box. The trap may
+now be set, as seen in our illustration, and should be supplied with
+the necessary tin catch, described in the foregoing.
+
+
+THE PENDENT BOX TRAP.
+
+This invention is original with the author of this work, and when
+properly made and set will prove an excellent device for the capture
+of small birds.
+
+The general appearance of the trap, as set, is clearly shown in
+our illustration. A thin wooden box is the first requisite, it
+should be about a foot square and six inches in depth, and supplied
+with a close fitting cover, working on hinges. The sides should then
+be perforated with a few auger holes for purposes of ventilation.
+
+Two elastics are next in order, and they should be attached to the
+cover and box, one on each side, as shown at (_a_.) They should be
+drawn to a strong tension, so as to hold the cover firmly against
+the box.
+
+The mechanism of the trap centres in the bait stick which differs
+in construction from any other described in this book.
+
+It should be made about the size of a lead pencil, and eleven
+[Page 92]
+inches or so in length, depending of course upon the size of the
+box.
+
+It should then be divided in two pieces by a perfectly flat cut,
+the longer part being six inches in length. This piece should be
+attached to the back board of the box by a small string and a tack,
+as shown at (_c_), its end being bluntly pointed. Its attachment
+should be about five inches above the bottom board, and in the
+exact centre of the width of the back.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Near the flat end of the other piece the bait consisting of a berry
+or other fruit, should be secured, and the further extremity of
+the stick should then be rounded to a blunt point. The trap is now
+easily set. Raise the lid and lift the long stick to the position
+given in the illustration. Adjust the flat end of the bait stick
+against that of the former, and allow the pressure of the lid to
+bear against the blunt point of the short stick at (_d_), as shown
+in the illustration, a straight dent being made in the cover to
+receive it, as also in the hack of the box for the other piece.
+If properly constructed, this pressure will be sufficient to hold
+the sticks end to end, as our engraving represents, and the trap is
+[Page 93]
+thus set. The slightest weight on the false perch thus made will
+throw the parts asunder, and the cover closes with a snap.
+
+The greatest difficulties in constructing the trap will be found
+in the bearings of the bait sticks (_b_), the ends of which must
+be perfectly flat and join snugly, in order to hold themselves
+together. The box may now be suspended in a tree by the aid of a
+string at the top. The first bird that makes bold enough to alight
+on the perch is a sure captive, and is secured without harm. If
+desired, the elastic may be attached to the inside of the cover,
+extending to the back of the box, as seen in the initial at the head
+of this chapter. If the elastic in any event shows tendencies toward
+relaxing, the tin catch described on page 88 should be adjusted
+to the lower edge of the box to insure capture.
+
+
+THE HAWK TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our illustration represents a hawk in a sad plight. The memory of
+a recent feast has attracted it to the scene of many of
+[Page 94]
+its depredations: but the ingenious farmer has at last outwitted
+his feathered foe and brought its sanguinary exploits to a timely
+end. This trap is a "Yankee" invention and has been used with great
+success in many instances where the hawk has become a scourge to the
+poultry yard. The contrivance is clearly shown in an illustration,
+consisting merely of a piece of plank two feet square, set with
+stiff perpendicular pointed wires.
+
+This affair was set on the ground in a conspicuous place, the board
+covered with grass, and the nice fat Poland hen which was tied to
+the centre proved a morsel too tempting for the hawk to resist.
+Hence the "fell swoop" and the fatal consequences depicted in our
+illustration. The owl has also been successfully captured by the
+same device.
+
+
+THE WILD DUCK NET.
+
+Following will be found two examples of traps in very common use
+for the capture of wild ducks, and in the region of Chesapeake
+bay, immense numbers of the game are annually taken by their aid.
+The first is the well known net trap, so extensively used in nearly
+all countries, both for the capture of various kinds of fish as
+well as winged game. Our illustration gives a very clear idea of
+the construction of the net, and an elaborate description is almost
+superfluous. It consists of a graduated series of hoops covered
+by a net work. From each a converging net extends backward ending
+in a smaller hoop which is held in position by cords extending
+[Page 95]
+therefrom to the next larger hoop. The depth of these converging
+nets should extend backward about three or four feet from the large
+hoop; and the distance between these latter should be about five
+feet. The length of the net should be about twenty feet, terminating
+in a "pound" or netted enclosure, as seen in the illustration. The
+trap may be set on shore or in the water as seen. "Decoy" birds are
+generally used, being enclosed in the pound.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When set on land the bait consisting of corn or other grain should
+be spread about the entrance and through the length of the net.
+
+It is remarkable that a duck which so easily finds its way within
+the netted enclosure, should be powerless to make its escape, but
+such seems to be the fact, and even a single hoop with its reflex
+net, has been known to secure a number of the game.
+
+
+THE HOOK TRAP
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our second example is one which we are almost tempted to exclude
+on account of its cruelty, but as our volume is especially devoted
+to traps of all kinds and as this is a variety in very common use,
+we feel bound to give it a passing notice. Our illustration fully
+conveys its painful mode of capture, and a beach at low water is
+generally the scene of the slaughter. A long stout cord is first
+stretched across the sand and secured
+[Page 96]
+to a peg at each end. To this shorter lines are attached at intervals,
+each one being supplied with a fish hook baited with a piece of
+the tender rootstock of a certain water reed, of which the ducks
+are very fond. The main cord and lines are then imbedded in the
+sand, the various baits only appearing on the surface, and the
+success of the device is equal to its cruelty.
+
+
+THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.
+
+Of all oddities of the trap kind, there is, perhaps, no one more
+novel and comical than the "Fool's Cap" crow-trap, which forms
+the subject of our present illustration. Crows are by no means
+easy of capture in any form of trap, and they are generally as
+coy and as shrewd in their approach to a trap as they are bold in
+their familiarity and disrespect for the sombre scarecrows in the
+com field. But this simple device will often mislead the smartest
+and shrewdest crow, and make a perfect _fool_ of him, for it is
+hard to imagine a more ridiculous sight than is furnished by the
+strange antics and evolutions of a crow thus embarrassed with his
+head imbedded in a cap which he finds impossible to remove, and
+which he in vain endeavors to shake off by all sorts of gymnastic
+performance. The secret of the little contrivance is easily told.
+The cap consists of a little cone of stiff paper, about three or
+four inches in diameter at the opening. This is imbedded in the
+ground, up to its edge, and a few grains of corn are dropped into
+it. The inside edge of the opening is then smeared with _bird-lime_,
+[Page 97]
+a substance of which we shall speak hereafter.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The crow, on endeavoring to reach the corn, sinks his bill so deep
+in the cone as to bring the gummy substance in contact with the
+feathers of his head and neck, to which it adheres in spite of
+all possible efforts on the part of the bird to throw it off.
+
+The cones may be made of a brownish-colored paper if they are to
+be placed in the earth, but of white paper when inserted in the
+snow. It is an excellent plan to insert a few of these cones in
+the fresh corn hills at planting season, as the crows are always on
+the watch at this time, and will be sure to partake of the tempting
+morsels, not dreaming of the result. The writer has often heard
+of this ingenious device, and has read of its being successfully
+employed in many instances, but he has never yet had an opportunity
+of testing it himself. He will leave it for his readers to experiment
+upon for themselves.
+
+
+BIRD LIME.
+
+This substance so called to which we have above alluded, and which
+is sold in our bird marts under that name, is a viscid, sticky
+preparation, closely resembling a very thick and gummy varnish.
+It is astonishingly "sticky," and the slightest quantity between
+the fingers will hold them together with remarkable tenacity. What
+its effect must be on the feathers of a bird can easily be imagined.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This preparation is put up in boxes of different sizes, and may
+be had from any of the taxidermists or bird-fanciers in any of
+[Page 98]
+our large towns or cities. Should a _home made_ article be required,
+an excellent substitute may be prepared from the inner bark of the
+"slippery elm." This should be gathered in the spring or early
+summer, cut into very small pieces or scraped into threads, and
+boiled in water sufficient to cover them until the pieces are soft
+and easily mashed. By this time the water will be pretty much boiled
+down, and the whole mass should then be poured into a mortar and
+beaten up, adding at the same time a few grains of wheat. When
+done, the paste thus made may be put into an earthen vessel and
+kept. When required to be used, it should be melted or softened
+over the fire, adding goose grease or linseed oil, instead of water.
+When of the proper consistency it may be spread upon sticks or
+twigs prepared for it, and which should afterwards be placed in
+the locality selected for the capture of the birds.
+
+An excellent bird-lime may be made also from plain linseed-oil,
+by boiling it down until it becomes thick and gummy. Thick varnish
+either plain or mixed with oil, but always free from alcohol, also
+answers the purpose very well. The limed twigs may be either set
+in trees or placed on poles and stuck in the ground.
+
+If any of our readers chance to become possessed of an owl, they
+may look forward to grand success with their limed twigs. It is a
+well known fact in natural history that the _owl_ is the universal
+enemy of nearly all our smaller birds. And when, as often happens,
+a swarm of various birds are seen flying frantically from limb to
+limb, seeming to centre on a particular tree, and filling the air
+with their loud chirping, it may be safely concluded that some sleepy
+owl has been surprised in his day-dozing, and is being severely
+pecked and punished for his nightly depredations.
+
+Profiting from this fact, the bird catcher often utilizes the owl
+with great success. Fastening the bird in the crotch of some tree,
+he adjusts the limed twigs on an sides, even covering the neighboring
+branches with the gummy substance. No sooner is the owl spied by
+_one_ bird than the cry is set up, and a _score_ of foes are soon
+at hand, ready for battle. One by one they alight on the beguiling
+twigs, and one by one find themselves held fast. The more they flutter
+the more powerless they become, and the more securely are they held.
+In this way many valuable and rare birds are often captured.
+
+
+[Page 99]
+THE HUMMING BIRD TRAP.
+
+One of the most ingenious uses to which bird lime is said to have
+been applied with success, is in the capture of humming-birds.
+The lime in this instance is made simply by chewing a few grains
+of wheat in the mouth until a gum is formed. It is said that by
+spreading this on the inside opening of the long white lily or
+trumpet-creeper blossom, the capture of a humming-bird is almost
+certain, and he will never be able to leave the flower after once
+fairly having entered the opening. There can be no doubt but that
+this is perfectly practicable, and we recommend it to our readers.
+
+The object in making the bird-lime from wheat consists in the fact
+that this is more easily removed from the feathers than the other
+kinds.
+
+We would not wish our readers to infer from this that a humming-bird
+might be captured or kept alive, for of all birds, they are the most
+fragile and delicate, and would die of _fright_, if from nothing
+else. They are chiefly used for ornamental purposes, and may be
+caught in a variety of ways. A few silk nooses hung about the flowers
+where the birds are seen to frequent, will sometimes succeed in
+ensnaring their tiny forms.
+
+The blow-gun is often used with good success, and the concussion
+from a gun loaded simply with powder, and aimed in the direction
+of the bird, will often stun it so that it will fall to the ground.
+If a strong stream of water be forced upon the little creature, as
+it is fluttering from flower to flower, the result is the same,
+as the feathers become so wet that it cannot fly.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 101]
+[Illustration: MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS]
+
+[Page 103]
+BOOK IV.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.
+
+
+THE COMMON BOX TRAP.
+
+[Illustration: T]he following chapter includes a variety of traps
+which have not been covered by any of the previous titles. Several
+novelties are contained in the list, and also a number of well
+known inventions.
+
+There is probably no more familiar example of the trap kind than
+that of the common wooden box-trap, better known, perhaps, by our
+country boys as the rabbit-trap. A glance at our illustration, will
+readily bring it to mind, and easily explain its working to those
+not particularly acquainted with it. These traps may be made of any
+size, but, being usually employed in catching rabbits, require to
+be made quite large. They should be made of hard seasoned wood--oak
+or chestnut is the best--and of slabs about an inch in thickness.
+The pieces may be of the following dimensions: let the bottom board
+be 20+7 in.; side board, 20+9 in.; lid board 19+7 in., and the
+end piece of lid 7 in. square.
+
+The tall end piece should be about 16 inches high by 7 broad. Let
+this be sharpened on the upper end, as seen in the engraving, and
+furnished with a slight groove on the summit, for the reception
+of the cord. Now to put the pieces together.
+
+Nail the two sides to the edge of the bottom board, and fit in
+between them the high end piece, securing that also, with nails
+through the bottom and side boards. Next nail the lid board on
+to the small, square end piece, and fit the lid thus made neatly
+into its place.
+
+To make the hinge for the lid, two small holes should be bored
+through the sides of the trap, about four inches from the tall end,
+and half an inch from the upper edge of each board. Let
+[Page 104]
+small nails now be driven through these holes into the edge of the
+lid, and it will be found to work freely upon them.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The principal part of the trap is now made, but what remains to be
+done is of great importance. The "spindle" is a necessary feature
+in nearly all traps, and the box-trap is useless without it. In
+this case it should consist merely of a round stick of about the
+thickness of a lead pencil, and we will say, 7 or 8 in. in length.
+One end should be pointed and the other should have a small notch
+cut in it, as seen in the separate drawing of the stick. The spindle
+being ready, we must have some place to put it. Another hole should
+be bored through the middle of the high end piece, and about 4 in.
+from the bottom. This hole should be large enough to allow the
+spindle to pass easily through it. If our directions have been
+carefully followed, the result will now show a complete, closefitting
+trap.
+
+In setting the trap there are two methods commonly employed, as
+shown at _a_ and _b_. The string, in either case, must be fastened
+to the end of the lid.
+
+In the first instance (_a_) the lid is raised and made fast by the
+brace, holding itself beneath the tip of the projecting spindle,
+and a nail or plug driven into the wood by the side of the hole.
+[Page 105]
+Of course, when the spindle is drawn or moved from the inside the
+brace will be let loose and the lid will drop.
+
+In the other method (_b_) the spindle is longer, and projects several
+inches on the outside of the hole. The brace is also longer, and
+catches itself in the notch on the end of the spindle, and another
+slight notch in the board, a few inches above the hole.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When the bait is touched from the inside, the brace easily flies
+out and the lid falls, securing its victim. Either way is sure
+to succeed, but if there is any preference it is for the former
+(_a_). It is a wise plan to have a few holes through the trap in
+different places, to allow for ventilation, and it may be found
+necessary to line the cracks with tin, as sometimes the enclosed
+creature might otherwise gnaw through and make its escape. If there
+is danger of the lid not closing tightly when sprung, a stone may
+be fastened upon it to insure that result.
+
+This trap is usually set for rabbits, and these dimensions are
+especially calculated with that idea. Rabbits abound in all our
+woods and thickets, and may be attracted by various baits. An apple
+is most generally used. The box-trap may be made of smaller dimensions,
+and set in trees for squirrels with very good success.
+
+There is still another well known form of this trap represented
+in the tail piece at the end of this section. The box is first
+constructed of the shape already given, only having the lid piece
+[Page 106]
+nailed firmly in the top of the box. The tall end piece is also
+done away with. The whole thing thus representing a simple oblong
+box with one end open. Two slender cleats should be nailed on each
+side of this opening, on the interior of the box, to form a groove
+into which a square end board may easily slide up and down, the
+top board being slightly sawn away to receive it. An upright stick
+should then be erected on the top centre of the box, in the tip of
+which a straight stick should be pivoted, working easily therein,
+like the arms of a balance. To one end of this balance, the end
+board should be adjusted by two screw eyes, and to the other the
+string with spindle attached. By now lowering the spindle to its
+place, the further end of the balance will be raised and with it
+the end board, and on the release of the spindle the board will
+fall. This plan is quite commonly adopted but we rather prefer
+the former. But as each has its advantages we present them both.
+
+
+ANOTHER BOX TRAP.
+
+This works after the manner of the ordinary wire rat-trap; our
+illustration explains itself.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The box should be of the shape there shown, with one of its end
+pieces arranged on hinges so as to fall freely. An elastic should
+be fastened from the inside of this end to the inner surface of
+the top of the box, to insure its closing. If desired an elastic
+may be adjusted at the side as shown in the cut and a catch piece
+of stout tin should be attached to the bottom of the trap to secure
+the lid when it falls. A small hole should then be bored in the
+top, near the further end of the trap, and
+[Page 107]
+the spindle, having a notch on its upper end, passed through the
+hole thus made. The top of the spindle is shown at (_a_). It should
+be held in its place by a small plug or pin through it, below the
+surface of the box. A slender stick, long enough to reach and catch
+beneath the notch in the spindle should now be fastened to the lid
+and the trap is complete. It may be baited with cheese, bread,
+and the like, and if set for squirrels, an apple answers every
+purpose.
+
+When constructed on a larger and heavier scale it may be used for
+the capture of rabbits and animals of a similar size, but for this
+purpose the previous variety is preferable.
+
+
+THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+One of the most useful as well as the most ancient inventions in
+the way of traps is the common _Figure Four Trap_, which forms
+the subject of our next illustration. It is a very ingenious
+contrivance, and the mechanism, consists merely of three sticks.
+It possesses great advantages in the fact that it may be used in
+a variety of ways, and a number of the machines may be carried by
+the young trapper with very little inconvenience. Our illustration
+shows the trap already set, only awaiting for a slight touch at
+the bait to bring the heavy stone to the ground. A box may be
+substituted for the stone, and the animal may thus be
+[Page 108]
+captured alive. The three sticks are represented separate at _a_.
+_b_. and _c_. Of course, there is no regular size for them, as this
+would greatly depend upon the purpose for which they are designed
+to be used. If for rabbits, the following proportions will answer
+very well. The sticks should all be square, and about half an inch
+in thickness. The bait-stick, (_a_) should be about nine or ten
+inches in length, one end being pointed and the other furnished
+with a notch, as indicated. The upright stick, (_b_) should be
+a little shorter, one end being whittled to a rather sharp edge.
+At about three or four inches from the other end, and on the side
+next to that whittled, a square notch should be cut. This should
+be about a third of an inch in depth and half an inch in width,
+being so cut as exactly to receive the bait-stick without holding
+it fast. The remaining stick (_c_) should have a length of about
+seven or eight inches, one end being whittled, as in the last,
+to an edge, and the other end furnished with a notch on the same
+side of the stick.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When these are finished, the trap may be set in the following manner:
+Place the upright stick, (_b_) with its pointed end uppermost.
+Rest the notch of the slanting stick, (_c_) on the summit of the
+upright stick, placing the stone upon its end, and holding the
+stick in position with the hand. By now hooking the notch in the
+bait-stick on the sharpened edge of the slanting stick and fitting
+it into the square notch in the upright, it may easily be made to
+catch and hold itself in position. The bait should always project
+beneath the stone. In case a box is used instead of a stone, the
+trap may be set either inside of it or beneath its edge. Where the
+ground is very soft, it would be well to rest the upright stick
+on a chip or small flat stone, as otherwise it is apt to sink into
+the earth by degrees and spring by itself.
+
+When properly made, it is a very sure and sensitive trap, and the
+bait, generally an apple, or "nub" of corn is seldom more than
+touched when the stone falls.
+
+
+[Page 109]
+THE "DOUBLE ENDER."
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is what we used to call it in New England and it was a great
+favorite among the boys who were fond of rabbit catching. It was
+constructed of four boards two feet in length by nine inches in
+breath secured with nails at their edges, so as to form a long
+square box. Each end was supplied with a heavy lid working on two
+hinges. To each of these lids a light strip of wood was fastened,
+the length of each being sufficient to reach nearly to the middle
+of the top of the box, as seen in the illustration. At this point
+a small auger hole was then made downward through the board. A
+couple of inches of string was next tied to the tip of each stick
+and supplied with a large knot at the end. The trap was then set on
+the simple principle of which there are so many examples throughout
+the pages of this work. The knots were lowered through the auger
+hole and the insertion of the bait stick inside the box held them
+in place. The edge of the bottom board on each end of the trap
+should be supplied with a tin catch such as is described on page
+88 in order to hold the lid in place after it has fallen. No matter
+from which end the bait is approached it is no sooner touched than
+both ends fall and "_bunny_" is prisoner. Like many other of our
+four-footed game, the rabbit manifests a peculiar liking for salt
+and may be regularly attracted to a given spot by its aid. A salted
+cotton string is sometimes extended several yards from the trap
+for the purpose of leading them to it, but this seems a needless
+precaution, as the rabbit is seldom behind hand in discerning a
+tempting bait when it is within his reach.
+
+
+[Page 110]
+THE SELF SETTING TRAP.
+
+One of the oldest known principles ever embodied in the form of a
+trap is that which forms the subject of the accompanying illustration.
+It is very simple in construction, sure in its action; and as its
+name implies, resets itself after each intruder has been captured.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It is well adapted for Rabbits and Coons and when made on a small
+scale, may be successfully employed in taking rats and mice. It
+is also extensively used in the capture of the Mink and Muskrat,
+being set beneath the water, near the haunts of the animals and
+weighted by a large stone. Of course the size of the box will be
+governed by the dimensions of the game for which it is to be set.
+Its general proportions should resemble those of the illustration,
+both ends being open. A small gate, consisting of a square piece
+of wood supplied with a few stiff wires is then pivoted inside
+each opening, so as to work freely and fall easily when raised.
+The bait is fastened inside at the centre of the box. The animal,
+in quest of the bait, finds an easy entrance, as the wires lift
+at a slight pressure, but the exit after the gate has closed is
+so difficult that escape is almost beyond the question.
+
+The wires should be so stiff as to preclude the possibility of them
+being bent by struggles of the imprisoned creature in his
+[Page 111]
+efforts to escape, and to insure further strength it is advisable
+to connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of finer
+wire, twisted about each.
+
+The simultaneous capture of two rabbits in a trap of this kind is
+a common occurrence.
+
+
+THE DEAD-FALL.
+
+In strolling through the woods and on the banks of streams in the
+country, it is not an uncommon thing to stumble against a contrivance
+resembling in general appearance our next illustration. Throughout
+New England, the "dead-fall," as this is called, has always been
+a most popular favorite among trappers, young and old; and there
+is really no better rough and ready trap for large game. To entrap
+a fox by any device is no easy matter; but the writer remembers
+one case where Reynard was outwitted, and the heavy log of the
+"dead-fall" put a speedy end to his existence. The trap was set in
+a locality where the fox had made himself a nuisance by repeated
+nocturnal invasions among the poultry, and the bait was cleverly
+calculated to decoy him. A live duck was tied within the pen, and
+the morsel proved too tempting for him to resist. Thrusting his
+head beneath the suspended log, in order to reach his prey, he thus
+threw down the slender framework of support; and the log, falling
+across his neck, put him to death.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our illustration gives a very correct idea of the general construction
+of the "dead-fall," although differing slightly in its mode of
+setting from that usually employed.
+
+[Page 112]
+A pen of rough sticks is first constructed, having an open front.
+A log about seven or eight feet in length, and five or six inches
+in diameter, should then be procured. An ordinary fence rail will
+answer the purpose very well, although the log is preferable. Its
+large end should be laid across the front of the pen, and two stout
+sticks driven into the ground outside of it, leaving room for it
+to rise and fall easily between them and the pen, a second shorter
+log being placed on the ground beneath it, as described for the
+bear-trap, page (17). A look at our illustration fully explains
+the _setting_ of the parts. A forked twig, about a foot in length,
+answers for the bait-stick. The lower end should be pointed, and
+the fork, with its bait, should incline toward the ground, when
+set. The upper end should be supplied with a notch, square side
+down, and directly above the branch which holds the bait. Another
+straight stick, about fourteen inches in length, should then be
+cut. Make it quite flat on each end. A small thin stone, chip of
+wood, or the like, is the only remaining article required. Now
+proceed to raise the log, as shown in the drawing, place one end
+of the straight stick beneath it, resting its tip on the flat top
+of the upright stick on the outside of the log. The baitstick should
+now be placed in position inside the inclosure, resting the pointed
+end on the chip, and securing the notch above, as seen in the
+illustration, beneath the tip of the flat stick. When this is done,
+the trap is set, but, there are a few little hints in regard to
+setting it finely,--that is, surely,--which will be necessary.
+It is very important to avoid bringing too much of the weight of
+the log on the flat stick, as this would of course bear heavily on
+the bait-stick, and render considerable force necessary to spring
+the trap. The leverage at the point where the log rests on the flat
+stick should be very slight, and the log should be so placed that
+the upright shall sustain nearly all the weight. By this method,
+very little pressure is brought to bear on the bait-stick, and a
+very slight twitch will throw it out of poise. The fork of the
+bait-stick should point to the side of the inclosure, as, in this
+case, when the bait is seized by the unlucky intruder, the very
+turning of the fork forces the notch from beneath the horizontal
+stick, and throws the parts asunder.
+
+If the trap is set for muskrats, minks, skunks, or animals of similar
+size, the weight of the log will generally be found sufficient to
+effect their death; but, if desired, a heavy stone
+[Page 113]
+may be rested against it, or the raised end weighted with other
+logs (see p. 18), to make sure. When set for a coon or fox, this
+precaution is necessary. To guard against the cunning which some
+animals possess, it is frequently necessary to cover the top of the
+pen with cross-sticks, as there are numerous cases on record where
+the intended victims have climbed over the side of the inclosure, and
+taken the bait from the inside, thus keeping clear of the suspended
+log, and springing the trap without harm to themselves. A few sticks
+or branches laid across the top of the inclosure will prevent any
+such capers; and the crafty animals will either have to take the
+bait at the risk of their lives, or leave it alone.
+
+For trapping the muskrat, the bait may consist of carrots, turnips,
+apples, and the like. For the mink, a bird's head, or the head
+of a fowl, is the customary bait; and the skunk may usually be
+taken with sweet apples, meats, or some portion of a dead fowl.
+
+In the case of the fox, which we have mentioned, the setting of the
+trap was somewhat varied; and in case our readers might desire to
+try a similar experiment, we will devote a few lines to a description
+of it. In this instance, the flat stick which supported the log was
+not more than eight inches in length; and instead of the bait-stick,
+a slight framework of slender branches was substituted. This frame or
+lattice-work was just large enough to fill the opening of the pen,
+and its upper end supported the flat stick. The duck was fastened
+to the back part of the pen, which was also closed over the top.
+The quacking of the fowl attracted the fox; and as he thrust his
+head through the lattice to reach his prey, the frame was thrown
+out of balance and Reynard paid the price of his greed and folly.
+
+There is another mode of adjusting the pieces of the dead-fall,
+commonly employed by professional trappers, whereby the trap is sprung
+by the foot of the animal in quest of the bait. This construction
+is shown correctly in the accompanying cut, which gives the front
+view, the pen being made as before. The stout crotch represented
+at (_a_) is rested on the summit of a strong peg, driven into the
+ground beneath the _outside edge_ of the suspended log; (_b_) is
+the treacherous stick which seals the doom of any animal that dares
+rest his foot upon it. This piece should be long enough to stretch
+across and overlap the guard-pegs at each side of the opening. To
+set the trap, rest the short crotch of (_a_) on the top of the
+peg, and lower the log upon it, keeping the leverage slight, as
+directed in our last example, letting much of the weight come on the
+[Page 114]
+top of the peg. The long arm of the crotch should be pressed inward
+from the front, and one end of the stick (_b_) should then be caught
+between its extreme tip, and the upright peg about ten inches above
+the ground. By now fastening the bait to a peg at the back part of
+the pen, the affair is in working order, and will be found perfectly
+reliable. The ground log (_d_) being rested in place as seen in
+the illustration. To make assurance doubly sure, it is well to cut
+a slight notch in the upright stick at (_c_) for the reception of
+the foot-piece (_b_). By this precaution the stick, when lowered,
+is bound to sink at the right end, thus ensuring success.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Figure-Four Trap, already described in another part of this
+book, is also well adapted to the dead-fall, and is much used.
+It should be made of stout pieces and erected at the opening of
+the pen, with the bait pointing toward the interior, the heavy
+log being poised on its summit.
+
+
+THE GARROTE.
+
+There is another variety of trap, somewhat resembling the dead-fall,
+but which seizes its prey in a little different manner.
+[Page 115]
+This trap, which we will call the _Garrote_, is truly represented
+by our illustration. A pen is first constructed, similar to that of
+the dead-fall. At the opening of the pen, two arches are fastened
+in the ground. They should be about an inch apart. A stout forked
+stick should then be cut, and firmly fixed in the earth at the
+side of the arches, and about three feet distant.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Our main illustration gives the general appearance of the trap,
+but we also subjoin an additional cut, showing the "setting" or
+arrangement of the pieces. They are three in number, and consist:
+First, of a notched peg, which is driven into the ground at the back
+part of the pen, and a little to one side. Second, of a forked twig,
+the branch of which should point downward with the bait attached to
+its end. The third stick being the little hooked piece catching
+beneath the arches. The first of these is too simple to need
+description. The second should be about eight inches long; a notch
+should be cut in each end. The upper one being on the side from
+which the branch projects, and the other on the _opposite_ side
+of the stick, and at the other end, as is made plain by our
+illustration. The third stick may consist merely of a hooked crotch
+of some twig, as this is always to be found. Indeed, nearly _all_
+the parts of this trap may be found in any woods; and, with the
+exception of a jack-knife, bait, and string, the trapper need not
+trouble himself to carry any materials whatever. When the three
+pieces are thus made the trap only awaits the "Garrote." This should
+be made from a stiff pole, about six feet in length, having a heavy
+stone tied to its large end, and a loop of the shape of the letter
+U, or a slipping noose, made of stout cord or wire, fastened
+[Page 116]
+at the smaller end. To arrange the pieces for their destructive
+work, the pole should be bent down so that the loop shall fall
+between the arches. The "crotch stick" should then be hooked beneath
+the front of the arch, letting its arm point inward. After this
+the bait stick should be placed in its position, with the bait
+pointing downward, letting one end catch beneath the notch in the
+ground-peg, and the other over the tip of the crotch stick. This
+done, and the trap is set.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Like the dead-fall, the bait stick should point toward the side
+of the pen, as the turning involved in pulling it toward the front
+is positively _sure_ to slip it loose from its catches. Be careful
+to see that the loop is nicely arranged between the arches, and that
+the top of the pen is covered with a few twigs. If these directions
+are carefully followed, and if the young trapper has selected a
+good trapping ground, it will not be a matter of many days before
+he will discover the upper portion of the arches occupied by some
+rabbit, muskrat, or other unlucky creature, either standing on its
+hind legs, or lifted clean off the ground. Coons are frequently
+secured by this trap, although, as a general thing, they don't
+show much enthusiasm over traps of any kind, and seem to prefer
+to get their food elsewhere, rather than take it off the end of
+a bait stick.
+
+
+THE BOW TRAP.
+
+This most excellent and unique machine is an invention of the author's,
+and possesses great advantages, both on account of its durability
+and of the speedy death which it inflicts.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Procure a board about two feet in length, by five or six in width,
+and commencing at about nine inches from one end, cut a hole four
+or more inches square. This may readily be done with a narrow saw,
+by first boring a series of gimlet holes in which to insert it.
+There will now be nine inches of board on one side of the hole
+and eleven on the other. The shorter end constituting the top of
+the trap. On the upper edge of the hole
+[Page 117]
+a row of stout tin teeth should be firmly tacked, as seen in the
+illustration. On the other side of the cavity, and three inches
+from it a small auger hole (the size of a lead pencil), should
+be bored. After which it should be sand-papered and polished on
+the interior, by rubbing with some smooth, hard tool, inserted
+inside. A round plug of wood should next be prepared. Let it be
+about half an inch in length, being afterwards bevelled nearly
+the whole length of one side, as shown at (_b_), leaving a little
+over an eighth of an inch of the wood unwhittled. This little piece
+of wood is the most important part, of the trap, and should be made
+very carefully. The remaining end of the board below the auger
+hole should now be whittled off to a point, in order that it may be
+driven into the ground. The next requisites consist of two pieces
+of wood, which are seen at the sides of the square hole, in our
+illustration, and also seen at (_c_), side view. These
+[Page 118]
+pieces should be about six inches in length and about an inch square.
+A thin piece being cut off from one side of each, to the distance
+of four inches, and ending in a square notch. The other end should
+be rounded off, as is also there plainly indicated. Before adjusting
+the pieces in place, two tin catches should be fastened to the
+board, one on each side of the hole. This catch is shown at (_d_),
+and consists merely of a piece of tin, half an inch in width, and
+three-quarters of an inch in length, tacked to the wood, and having
+its end raised, as indicated. Its object is to hold the bow-string
+from being pulled down after once passing it. The upper edge of
+these catch-pieces should be about an inch and a half from the top
+of the hole, and, if desired, two or three of them may be arranged
+one above the other, so that wherever the string may stop against
+the neck of the inmate it will be sure to hold. The catches being
+in place, proceed to adjust the pieces of wood, letting the notch
+be on a line with the top of the pole, or a little above it. Each
+piece should be fastened with two screws to make secure.
+
+We will now give our attention to the bait stick. This should be
+about six inches in length, and square, as our illustration shows.
+There are two ways of attaching the bait-stick to the board, both
+shown at (_e_) and (_f_). The former consists merely of a screw
+eye inserted into the end of the stick, afterwards hinged to the
+board by a wire staple. The point for the hinge, in this case,
+should be about an inch below the auger hole. In the other method
+(_f_), the bait stick should be a half inch longer, and the spot
+for the hinge a quarter inch lower. At about a quarter of an inch
+from the square end of the bait stick a small hole should be made
+by the use of a hot wire. An oblong mortice should next be cut
+in the board, so as to receive this end of the stick easily. A
+stout bit of wire should then be inserted in the little hole in
+the stick, and laying this across the centre of the mortice, it
+should be thus secured by two staples, as the drawing shows. This
+forms a very neat and simple hinge. To determine the place for
+the catch, insert the flat end of the little plug fairly into the
+auger-hole above the hinge. Draw up the bait stick, and at the
+point where it comes in contact with the point of the plug, cut
+a square notch, as shown in (_b_). Everything now awaits the bow.
+This should be of hickory or other stout wood; it is well to have
+it seasoned, although a stout sapling will answer the purpose very
+well. It should be fastened to the top of the board by two heavy
+staples, or nails driven on each side of it. The string should
+be _heavy_ Indian twine. Our
+[Page 119]
+illustration shows the trap, as it appears when ready for business.
+The plug is inserted, as already described, with the bevelled face
+downward, and square end in the hole. Draw down the bow-string and
+pass it beneath the plug, at the same time catching the tip of
+the latter in the notch of the bait stick. If properly constructed
+the string will thus rest on the slight uncut portion of the under
+side of the peg, and the trap is thus set. If the bait is pushed
+when approached, the notch is forced off from the plug, and the
+string flies up with a _twang!_ securing the neck of its victim,
+and producing almost instant death. If the bait is _pulled_, the
+bait stick thus forces the plug into the hole in the board, and
+thus slides the cord on to the bevel, which immediately releases
+it, and the bow is sprung. So that no matter whether the bait is
+pushed or drawn towards the front, the trap is equally sure to
+spring.
+
+In setting this curious machine, it is only necessary to insert
+it into the ground, and surround the bait with a slight pen, in
+order that it may not be approached from behind. By now laying a
+stone or a pile of sticks in front of the affair, so that the bait
+may be more readily reached, the thing is ready. Care is required
+in setting to arrange the pieces delicately. The plug should be
+_very slightly_ inserted into the auger hole, and the notch in
+the bait stick should be as small as possible, and hold. All this
+is made clear in our illustration (_b_).
+
+By observing these little niceties the trap becomes very sure and
+sensitive.
+
+Bait with small apple, nub of corn, or the like.
+
+
+THE MOLE TRAP.
+
+If there is anyone subject upon which the ingenuity of the farmers
+has been taxed, it is on the invention of a mole trap which would
+effectually clear their premises of these blind burrowing vermin.
+Many patented devices of this character are on the market, and
+many odd pictured ideas on the subject have gone the rounds of
+the illustrated press, but they all sink into insignificance when
+tested beside the trap we here present. It has no equal among mole
+traps, and it can be made with the utmost ease and without cost.
+The principle on which it works is the same as the Fish Trap on
+page 120.
+
+Construct a hollow wooden tube about five inches in diameter, and
+eight inches in length. A section of a small tree, neatly excavated
+with a large auger is just the thing. Through
+[Page 120]
+the centre of one of the sides a small hole the size of a lead
+pencil should be bored, this being the upper side. About half an
+inch distant from each end a smaller hole should be made for the
+passage of the noose. The spring should consist either of a stout
+steel rod, whalebone or stiff sapling, a foot or more in length,
+inserted downward through holes in the side of the tube after the
+manner of the Fish Trap already alluded to. No bait is required.
+A simple stick the size of the central hole at one end, and an
+inch in width at the other being sufficient. The trap is set as
+described in the other instances, and as the introduction of the
+spindle-stick is sometimes attended with difficulty owing to its
+position inside the trap, the bottom of the latter is sometimes
+cut away for two or three inches to facilitate the operation. The
+trap is then to be imbedded within the burrow of the mole. Find
+a fresh tunnel and carefully remove the sod above it. Insert the
+trap and replace the turf. The first mole that starts on his rounds
+through that burrow is a sure prisoner, no matter from which side
+he may approach.
+
+Immense numbers of these troublesome vermin have been taken in a
+single season by a dozen such traps, and they possess great advantages
+over all other mole traps on account of their simplicity and unfailing
+success.
+
+
+A FISH TRAP.
+
+Our list of traps would be incomplete without a Fish Trap, and
+although we have mentioned some contrivances in this line under
+our article on "Fishing" we here present one which is both new
+and novel.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Its mode of construction is exactly similar to the Double Box Snare,
+page (57). A section of stove-pipe one foot in length should first
+be obtained. Through the iron at a point equidistant from the ends,
+a hole should be made with some smooth, sharp pointed instrument,
+the latter being forced _outward_ from the _inside_ of the pipe,
+thus causing the ragged edge of the hole to appear on the outside,
+as seen in our illustration. The diameter of the aperture
+[Page 121]
+should be about that of a lead pencil. Considering this as the _upper
+side_ of the pipe, proceed to pierce two more hole's _downward_
+through the side of the circumference, for the admission of a stout
+stick or steel rod. This is fully explained in our illustration. The
+further arrangement of bait stick and nooses is exactly identical
+with that described on page (57). It may be set for suckers, pickerel,
+and fish of like size, the bait stick being inserted with sufficient
+firmness to withstand the attacks of smaller fish. The bait should
+be firmly tied to the stick, or the latter supplied with two hooks
+at the end on which it should be firmly impaled. To set the trap,
+select a locality abounding in fish. Place a stone inside the bottom
+of the pipe, insert the bait stick and arrange the nooses.
+
+By now quietly grasping the curve of the switch the trap may be
+easily lowered to the bottom. The bait soon attracts a multitude
+of small fishes; these in turn attract the pickerel to the spot,
+and before many minutes the trap is sprung and may be raised from
+the water with its prisoner. This odd device is an invention of
+the author's, and it is as successful as it is unique.
+
+[Illustration: Maternal advice.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 123]
+[Illustration: HOUSEHOLD TRAPS]
+
+
+[Page 125]
+BOOK V.
+
+HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.
+
+[Illustration: F]or the most effectual domestic trap on record
+see our page title to this section. There are several others also
+which have done good service in many households, and for the sake
+of pestered housekeepers generally, we devote a corner of our volume
+for their especial benefit.
+
+Foremost in the list of domestic pests the rat stands pre-eminent,
+and his proverbial shrewdness and cunning render his capture often
+a very difficult, if not an impossible task. We subjoin, however,
+a few hints and suggestions of practical value, together with some
+perfected ideas in the shape of traps, by which the average rat
+may be easily outwitted and led to his destruction.
+
+First on the list is
+
+
+THE BARREL TRAP.
+
+This most ingenious device possesses great advantages in its
+capabilities of securing an almost unlimited number of the vermin
+in quick succession. It also takes care of itself, requires no
+re-baiting or setting after once put in working order, and is sure
+death to its prisoners.
+
+A water-tight barrel is the first thing required. Into this pour
+water to the depth of a foot. Next dampen a piece of very thick
+paper, and stretch it over the top of the barrel, tying it securely
+below the upper hoops. When the paper dries it will become thoroughly
+flat and tightened. Its surface should then be strewn with bits
+of cheese, etc., and the barrel so placed
+[Page 126]
+that the rats may jump upon it from some neighboring surface. As
+soon as the bait is gone, a fresh supply should be spread on the
+paper and the same operation repeated for several days, until the
+rats get accustomed to visit the place for their regular rations,
+fearlessly and without suspicion. This is "half the battle," and
+the capture of the greedy victims of misplaced confidence is now
+an easy matter. The bait should again be spread as before and a
+few pieces of the cheese should be attached to the paper with gum.
+It is a good plan to smear parts of the paper with gum arabic,
+sprinkling the bait upon it. When dry, cut a cross in the middle
+of the paper, as seen in the illustration, and leave the barrel
+to take care of itself and the rats. The first one comes along,
+spies the tempting morsels, and with his accustomed confidence,
+jumps upon the paper. He suddenly finds himself in the water at
+the bottom of the barrel, and the paper above has closed and is
+ready to practice its deception on the next comer. There is not
+long to wait. A second victim soon tumbles in to keep company with
+the first. A third and a fourth soon follow, and a dozen or more
+[Page 127]
+are sometimes thus entrapped in a very short space of time. It is a
+most excellent and simple trap, and if properly managed, will most
+effectually curtail the number of rats in any pestered neighborhood.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+By some, it is considered an improvement to place in the bottom
+of the barrel a large stone, which shall project above the water
+sufficiently to offer a foothold for one rat. The first victim,
+of course, takes possession of this retreat and on the precipitate
+arrival of the second a contest ensues for its occupancy. The hubbub
+which follows is said to attract all the rats in the neighborhood
+to the spot, and many are thus captured.
+
+We can hardly recommend the addition of the stone as being an
+improvement. The rat is a most notoriously shrewd and cunning animal,
+and the despairing cries of his comrades must rather tend to excite
+his caution and suspicion. By the first method the drowning is soon
+accomplished and the rat utters no sound whereby to attract and
+warn his fellows. This contrivance has been thoroughly tested and
+has proved its efficacy in many households by completely ridding
+the premises of the vermin.
+
+Another excellent form of Barrel Trap is that embodying the principle
+described in page (131). A circular platform should be first constructed
+and hinged in the opening of the barrel This may be done by driving
+a couple of small nails through the sides of the barrel into a
+couple of staples inserted near the opposite edges of the platform.
+The latter should be delicately weighted, as described on the above
+mentioned page, and previously to setting, should be baited in a
+stationary position for several days to gain the confidence of
+the rats. The bait should at last be secured to the platform with
+gum, and the bottom of the barrel of course filled with water, as
+already described. This trap possesses the same advantages as the
+foregoing. It is _self-setting_, and unfailing in its action.
+
+Another method consists in half-filling the barrel with oats, and
+allowing the rats to enjoy their repast there for several days.
+When thus attracted to the spot, remove the oats, and pour the same
+bulk of water into the barrel, sprinkling the surface thickly with
+the grain. The delusion is almost perfect, as will be effectually
+proven when the first rat visits the spot for his accustomed free
+lunch. Down he goes with a splash, is soon drowned, and sinks to
+the bottom. The next shares the same fate, and several more are
+likely to be added to the list of misguided victims.
+
+[Page 128]
+Many of the devices described throughout this work may be adapted
+for domestic use to good purpose. The box-trap page 103, box-snare,
+page 55, figure-four, page 107, are all suitable for the capture
+of the rat; also, the examples given on pages 106, 109, 110, and
+129.
+
+The steel-trap is often used, but should always be concealed from
+view. It is a good plan to set it in a pan covered with meal, and
+placed in the haunts of the rats. The trap may also be set at the
+mouth of the rats' hole, and covered with a piece of dark-colored
+cloth or paper. The runways between boxes, boards, and the like
+offer excellent situations for the trap, which should be covered,
+as before directed.
+
+Without one precaution, however, the trap may be set in vain. Much
+of the so-called shrewdness of the rat is nothing more than an
+instinctive caution, through the acute sense of smell which the
+animal possesses; and a trap which has secured one victim will
+seldom extend its list, unless all traces of its first occupant
+are thoroughly eradicated. This may be accomplished by smoking
+the trap over burning paper, hens' feathers or chips, taking care
+to avoid a heat so extreme as to affect the temper of the steel
+springs. All rat-traps should be treated the same way, in order to
+insure success, and the position and localities of setting should
+be frequently changed.
+
+
+THE BOX DEAD-FALL.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This trap is an old invention, simplified by the author, and for
+the capture of rats and mice will prove very effectual. It consists
+of a box, constructed of four slabs of 3-4 inch boarding, and open
+at both ends. The two side boards should be 10 x 18 inches; top
+and bottom boards, 6 x 18 inches. For the centre of the latter,
+a square piece should be removed by the aid of the saw. The width
+of this piece should be four inches, and the length eight inches.
+Before nailing the boards together, the holes thus left in the
+bottom board should be supplied with a treadle platform, working
+on central side pivots. The board for this treadle should be much
+thinner and lighter than the rest of the trap, and should fit loosely
+in place, its surface being slightly below the level of the bottom
+board. This is shown in the interior of the trap. The pivots should
+be inserted in the exact centre of the sides, through holes made
+in the edge of the bottom board. These holes may be bored with
+a gimlet or burned with a red-hot wire. The pivots may
+[Page 129]
+consist of stout brass or iron wire; and the end of one should
+be flattened with the hammer, as seen in (_a_). This pivot should
+project an inch from the wood, and should be _firmly_ inserted
+in the treadle-piece. The platform being thus arranged, proceed
+to fasten the boards together, as shown in the illustration, the
+top and bottom boards overlapping the others. We will now give
+our attention to the stick shown at (_b_). This should be whittled
+from a piece of hard wood, its length being three inches, and its
+upper end pointed as seen. The lower end should be pierced with a
+crevice, which should then be forced over the flattened extremity
+of the point (_a_) as shown at (_c_), pointed end uppermost. The
+weight (_a_) is next in order. This should consist of a heavy oak
+plank two inches in thickness, and of such other dimensions as will
+allow it to fit loosely in the box, and fall from top to bottom
+therein without catching between two sides. A stout staple should
+be driven in the centre of its upper face, and from this a stout
+string should be passed upward through a hole in the centre of
+the box. We are now ready for the spindle (_e_). This should be
+about three inches in length, and bluntly pointed
+[Page 130]
+at each end, a notch being made to secure it at a point five inches
+above the pivot (_c_). To set the trap, raise the weight, as seen
+in the illustration; draw down the string to the point (_e_), and
+attach it to the spindle one-half an inch from its upper end, which
+should then be inserted in the notch, the lower end being caught
+against the extremity of the pivot stick. The parts are now adjusted,
+and even in the present state the trap is almost sure to spring at
+the slightest touch on the treadle-piece. An additional precaution
+is advisable, however. Two small wooden pegs (_f_) should be driven,
+one on each side of the spindle, thus preventing any side-movement
+of the latter. It will now be readily seen that the slightest weight
+on either end of the treadle-piece within the trap must tilt it
+to one side, thus throwing the pivot-piece from its bearing on
+the spindle; and the latter being released, lets fall the weight
+with crushing effect upon the back of its hapless victim.
+
+The trap is very effective, and is easily constructed. The bait
+should be rested in the centre of the treadle platform. Built on
+a larger scale, this device may be successfully adapted to the
+capture of the mink, martien, and many other varieties of game.
+
+
+THE BOARD-FLAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 131]
+For the capture of mice this is both a simple and effective contrivance,
+and it may be enlarged so as to be of good service for larger animals.
+Procure two boards, one foot square and one inch thick, and secure
+them together by two hinges, as in the illustration. Assuming one
+as the upper board, proceed to bore a gimlet hole three inches
+from the hinges. This is for the reception of the bait stick, and
+should be cut away on the inside, as seen in the section (_a_),
+thus allowing a free play for the stick. Directly beneath this
+aperture, and in the lower board, a large auger hole should be made.
+A stout bit of iron wire, ten inches in length, is now required.
+This should be inserted perpendicularly in the further end of the
+lower slab, being bent into a curve which shall slide easily through
+a gimlet hole in the edge of the upper board. This portion is very
+important, and should be carefully constructed. The bait stick
+should be not more than three inches in length, supplied with a
+notch in its upper end, and secured in the aperture in the board by
+the aid of a pivot and staples, as is clearly shown in our drawing.
+The spindle is next in order. It should consist of a light piece
+of pine eight and a half inches in length, and brought to an edge
+at each end. A tack should now be driven at the further edge of
+the upper board on a line with the aperture through which the wire
+passes. Our illustration represents the trap as it appears when
+set. The upper band is raised to the full limit of the wire. One
+end of the spindle is now adjusted beneath the head of the tack,
+and the other in the notch in the bait stick. The wire thus supports
+the suspended board by sustaining the spindle, which is held in
+equilibrium. A slight touch on the bait stick soon destroys this
+equilibrium: a flap ensues, and a dead mouse is the result. The
+object of the auger hole in the lower board consists in affording a
+receptacle for the bait when the boards come together, as otherwise
+it would defeat its object, by offering an obstruction to the fall
+of the board, and thus allow its little mouse to escape.
+
+It is, therefore, an essential part of the trap, and should be carefully
+tested before being finally set.
+
+
+THE BOX PIT-FALL.
+
+We now come to a variety of trap which differs in its construction
+from any previously described. It secures its victims alive, and
+without harm, and, when well made, is very successful.
+[Page 132]
+It may be set for squirrels, chipmunks, rats, mice, and the like,
+and on a large scale for muskrats and mink.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The trap is very easily made, and is represented in section in
+our illustration, showing the height and interior of the box. For
+ordinary purposes the box should be about twelve or fourteen inches
+square, with a depth of about eighteen inches. A platform consisting
+of a piece of tin should then be procured. This should be just
+large enough to fit nicely to the outline of the interior of the
+box without catching. On two opposite sides of this piece of tin,
+and at the middle of each of those sides, a small strip of the
+same material should be wired, or soldered in the form of a loop,
+as shown in the separate diagram at (_b_). These loops should be
+only large enough to admit the end of a shingle-nail. A scratch
+should now be made across the tin from loop to loop, and on the
+centre of this scratch another and larger strip of tin should be
+fastened in a similar manner as shown in our diagram, at (_a_),
+this being for the balance weight. The
+[Page 133]
+latter may consist of a small stone, piece of lead, or the like,
+and should be suspended by means of a wire bent around it, and
+secured in a hole in the tin by a bend or knot in the other extremity.
+Further explanations are almost superfluous, as our main illustration
+fully explains itself.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+After the weight is attached, the platform should be secured in
+its place, about five inches from the top of the box. To accomplish
+this and form the hinges, two shingle-nails should be driven through
+the side of the box into the tin loops prepared for them. To do
+this nicely requires some considerable accuracy and care, and it
+should be so done that the platform will swing with perfect freedom
+and ease, the weight below bringing it to a horizontal poise after
+a few vibrations. Care should be taken that the weight is not too
+heavy, as, in such a case, the platform will not be sensitive on its
+balance, and, consequently, would not work so quickly and surely.
+The weight should be _just heavy enough_ to restore the platform
+to its perfect poise, and no more. This can be easily regulated
+by experiment. The bait should then be strewn on both sides of the
+platform, when the trap is set, and the luckless animal, jumping
+after the bait, feels his footing give way, and suddenly finds
+himself in the bottom of a dark box, from which it is impossible
+for him to escape except by gnawing his way out. To prevent this,
+the interior of the box may be lined with tin.
+
+By _fastening_ the bait--a small lump or piece--on each side of
+the tin, the trap will continually reset itself, and, in this way,
+two or three individuals may be taken, one after the other. Muskrats
+are frequently caught in this trap, it being generally buried in
+the ground so that its top is on a level with the surface. In this
+case it is necessary to arrange the platform lower down in the
+box, and the latter should be of much larger dimensions than the
+one we have described.
+
+[Page 134]
+For ordinary purposes the box should either be set in the ground or
+placed near some neighboring object which will afford easy access
+to it. No less than a dozen rats have been caught in a trap of
+this kind in a single night.
+
+
+CAGE TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The common cage trap is well known to most of our readers, and for
+the capture of rats and mice, it is one of the most efficacious
+devices in existence. The construction of one of these traps is
+quite a difficult operation, and we would hesitate before advising
+our inventive reader to exercise his patience and ingenuity in the
+manufacture of an article which can be bought for such a small
+price, and which, after all, is only a mouse trap. If it were a
+device for the capture of the _mink_ or _otter_, it might then be
+well worth the trouble, and would be likely to repay the time and
+labor expended upon it. We imagine that few would care to exercise
+their skill over a trap of such complicated structure, while our
+pages are filled with other simpler and equally effective examples.
+
+For the benefit, however, of such as are of an inventive turn of
+mind, we subjoin an illustration of the trap to serve as a guide.
+The principle upon which it works is very simple. The bait is
+[Page 135]
+strewn inside the cage, and the rats or mice find their only access
+to it through the hole at the top. The wires here converge at the
+bottom, and are pointed at the ends. The passage downwards is an
+easy matter, but to _escape_ through the same opening is impossible,
+as the pointed ends of the wires effectually prevent the ascent.
+It is a notable fact, however, that the efforts to escape through
+this opening are very seldom made. The mode of entering seems to
+be absolutely forgotten by the captive animals, and they rush
+frantically about the cage, prying between all the wires in their
+wild endeavors, never seeming to notice the central opening by which
+they entered. This is easily explained by the fact that the open
+grating admits the light from all sides, and the enclosed victims
+are thus attracted to no one spot in particular, and naturally rush
+to the extreme edges of the trap, in the hope of finding an exit.
+
+If a thick cloth be placed over the cage, leaving the opening at
+the top uncovered, the confined creatures are soon attracted by
+the light, and lose no time in rushing towards it, where their
+endeavors to ascend are effectually checked by the pointed wires.
+Profiting by this experiment, the author once improvised a simple
+trap on the same principle, which proved very effectual. We will
+call it
+
+
+THE JAR TRAP.
+
+In place of the wire cage, a glass preserve-jar was substituted.
+A few bits of cheese were then dropped inside, and the top of a
+funnel inserted into the opening above. This completed the trap,
+and it was set on the floor near the flour barrel. On the following
+morning the jar was occupied by a little mouse, and each successive
+night for a week added one to the list of victims. A stiff piece
+of tin, bent into the required shape, may be substituted for the
+funnel top, or even a very heavy piece of pasteboard might answer.
+
+
+BOWL TRAPS.
+
+Very effective extempore traps may be set up in a few minutes by
+the use of a few bowls. There are two methods commonly employed.
+One consists of the bowl and a knife-blade. An ordinary tableknife
+is used and a piece of cheese is firmly forced on to the end of
+the blade, the bowl is then balanced on the edge, allowing the
+bait to project about an inch and a half beneath the bowl. The odor
+of cheese will attract a mouse almost anywhere, and he soon finds
+[Page 136]
+his way to the tempting morsel in this case. A very slight nibble
+is sufficient to tilt the blade and the bowl falls over its prisoner.
+
+In the second method a thimble is used in place of the knife. The
+cheese is forced into its interior, and the open end of the thimble
+inserted far beneath the bowl, allowing about half its length to
+project outward.
+
+The mouse is thus obliged to pass under the bowl in order to reach
+the bait, and in his efforts to grasp the morsel, the thimble is
+dislodged and the captive secured beneath the vessel. Where a small
+thimble is used, it becomes necessary to place a bit of pasteboard
+or flat chip beneath it, in order to raise it sufficiently to afford
+an easy passage for the mouse. Both of these devices are said to
+work excellently.
+
+
+FLY PAPER.
+
+A sheet of common paper, smeared with a mixture composed of molasses
+one part, and bird-lime six parts (see page 97), will be found to
+attract large numbers of flies and hold them prisoners upon its
+surface.
+
+Spruce gum, warmed on the fire, and mixed with a little linseed
+oil, is also excellent. For a genuine fly trap, the following stands
+unrivalled.
+
+
+FLY TRAP.
+
+Take a tumbler, and half-fill it with strong soap suds. Cut a circle
+of stiff paper which will exactly fit into the top of the glass.
+In the centre of the paper cut a hole half an inch in diameter,
+or, better still, a slice of bread may be placed on the glass.
+Smear one side of the disc with molasses, and insert it in the
+tumbler with this side downward. Swarms of flies soon surround
+it, and one by one find their way downward through the hole. Once
+below the paper, and their doom is sealed. For a short time the
+molasses absorbs their attention, and they, in turn, absorb the
+molasses.
+
+In their efforts to escape, they one by one precipitate themselves
+in the soap suds below, where they speedily perish. The tumbler
+is soon half-filled with the dead insects, and where a number of
+the traps are set in a single room, the apartment is soon ridden
+of the pests.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 137]
+BOOK VI.
+
+STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.
+
+[Illustration: P]assing from our full and extended illustrated list
+of extempore, or "rough and ready" examples of the trap kind, we
+will now turn our attention to the consideration of that well-known
+implement, the trade _steel_ trap. Although the foregoing varieties
+often serve to good purpose, the Steel Trap is the principal device
+used by professional trappers, and possesses great advantages over
+all other traps. It is portable, sets easily and quickly, either on
+land or beneath the water; can be concealed with ease; secures its
+victims without injury to their fur, and by the application of the
+spring or sliding pole (hereafter described) will most effectually
+prevent the captive from making his escape by self-amputation, besides
+placing him beyond the reach of destruction by other animals.
+
+The author has known trappers who have plied their vocation largely
+by the aid of the various hand made traps, described in the earlier
+pages of this book, and with good success. But in the regular _business_
+of systematic trapping, their extensive use is not common. The
+experience of modern trappers generally, warrants the assertion
+that for practical utility, from every point of view, the steel
+trap stands unrivalled.
+
+These traps are made of all sizes, from that suitable for the capture
+of the house rat, to the immense and wieldy machine adapted to the
+grizzly, and known as the "bear tamer."
+
+They may be bought at almost any hardware shop, although a large
+portion of the traps ordinarily sold are defective. They should
+be selected with care, and the springs always tested
+[Page 138]
+before purchase. Besides the temper of the spring, there are also
+other necessary qualities in a steel trap, which we subjoin in
+order that the amateur may know how to judge and select his weapons
+judiciously.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+REQUISITES OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.
+
+1. _The jaws should not be too thin nor sharp cornered_. In the
+cheaper class of steel traps the jaws approach to the thinness
+of sheet-iron, and the result is that the thin edges often sever
+the leg of their would-be captive in a single stroke. At other
+times the leg is so deeply cut as to easily enable the animal to
+gnaw or twist it off. This is the common mode of escape, with many
+animals.
+
+2. _The pan should not be too large_. This is a very common fault
+with many steel traps and often defeats its very object. Where the
+pan is small, the foot of the animal in pressing it, will be directly
+in the centre of the snap of the jaw, and he is thus firmly secured
+far up on the leg. On the other hand, a large pan nearly filling
+the space between the jaws as the trap is set, may be sprung by a
+touch on its extreme edge, and the animal's toe is thus likely to
+get slightly pinched, if indeed the paw is not thrown off altogether
+by the forcible snap of the jaw.
+
+3. _The springs should be strong, scientifically tempered, and
+proportioned_. The strength of a perfectly tempered spring will
+always remain the same, whether in winter or summer, never losing
+its elasticity. The best of tempering, however, is useless in a
+spring badly formed or clumsily tapered.
+
+4. The jaws should be so curved as to give the bow of the spring
+a proper sweep to work upon. The jaws should lie _flat_ when open,
+and should always work easily on their hinges.
+
+5. Every trap should be furnished with a strong chain with ring and
+swivel attached, and in every case the swivel should turn easily.
+
+The celebrated "Newhouse Trap" embodies all the above requisites,
+and has deservedly won a reputation for excellence second to no
+other in this or any other country.
+
+They are made in eight sizes, as follows:
+
+[Illustration: No. 0.]
+
+This is the smallest size and is known as the RAT TRAP. It has a
+single spring, and the jaws spread three and a half inches when
+set.
+
+[Page 139]
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 141]
+[Illustration: No. 1.]
+
+This size is called the MUSKRAT TRAP, and the jaws spread four
+inches. It is especially designed for the capture of the mink, marten,
+and animals of similar size.
+
+[Illustration: No. 2.]
+
+This is known in the trade as the MINK TRAP, and the jaws spread
+nearly five inches. It is adapted for the fox, raccoon, or fisher.
+
+[Illustration: No. 2-1/2.]
+
+This size is called the FOX TRAP. The spread of the jaws is the
+same as in the foregoing, but the trap is provided with two springs,
+and consequently has double the power. It is strong enough for
+the otter, and is generally used for the capture of the fox and
+fisher.
+
+[Illustration: No. 3.]
+
+No.3 goes by the name of the OTTER TRAP. The jaws spread five and
+a half inches, and the powerful double springs do excellent service
+in the capture of the beaver, fox, badger, opossum, wild cat, and
+animals of like size.
+
+[Illustration: No. 4.]
+
+Commonly called the BEAVER TRAP. Jaws spread six and a half inches.
+This size is especially adapted to the wolf, lynx or wolverine. It
+may also be set for deer, and extra sets of jaws are made expressly
+for this purpose, being easily inserted in the place of the ordinary
+jaws, when desired.
+
+[Page 142]
+[Illustration: No. 6.]
+
+This is known as the "GREAT BEAR TAMER," and is a most formidable
+weapon. The jaws spread sixteen inches, and the weight of the machine
+is forty-two pounds. It is extensively used in the capture of the
+moose and grizzly bear, and is the largest and most powerful steel
+trap made in this or any other country. The springs possess most
+tremendous power, and require to be set by a lever, as the weight
+of an ordinary man has not the slightest effect upon them. This
+lever may be easily applied, as follows: Have at hand four stout
+straps, supplied with buckles. These should always be carried by
+the trapper, where the larger double-spring traps are used. To
+adjust the lever, cut four heavy sticks about three feet long.
+Take two of them and secure their ends together, side by side,
+with one of the straps. Now insert the spring of the trap between
+them, near the strap. Bear down heavily on the other extremity of
+the lever, and the spring will be found to yield easily, after
+which the remaining ends of the levers should be secured by a second
+strap. The other spring should now be treated in the same way,
+after which the jaws should be spread and the pan adjusted. The
+removal of the straps and levers is now an easy matter, after which
+[Page 143]
+the trap is set. The stoutest spring is easily made to yield by such
+treatment.
+
+[Illustration: No. 5.]
+
+The SMALL BEAR TRAP. The jaws of this size spread nearly a foot,
+and the weight of the trap is seventeen pounds. It is used in the
+capture of the black bear, puma, and animals of similar size.
+
+All of the foregoing are supplied with swivels and chains.
+
+
+HINTS ON BAITING THE STEEL TRAP.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is a very common and erroneous idea current among amateur
+sportsmen and others in regard to the baiting of the steel trap;
+viz., that the pan of the trap is intended for the _bait_. This
+was the old custom in the traps of bygone times, but no modern
+trap is intended to be so misused, and would indeed often defeat
+its object in such a case, wherein it will be easily
+[Page 144]
+seen. The object of the professional trapper is the acquisition
+of furs; and a prime fur skin should be without break or bruise,
+from nose to tail. A trap set as above described, would of course
+catch its victim by the head or neck, and the fur would he more
+or less injured at the very spot where it should be particularly
+free from blemish.
+
+The true object of the steel trap is, that it shall take the animal
+by the _leg_, thus injuring the skin only in a part where it is
+totally valueless.
+
+We give, then, this imperative rule--_Never bait a steel trap on
+the pan_.
+
+The pan is intended for the _foot_ of the game, and in order to
+insure capture by this means, the bait should be so placed as that
+the attention of the animal will be _drawn away_ from the trap;
+the latter being in such a position as will cause the victim to
+_step in it_ when reaching for the tempting allurement.
+
+There are several ways of doing this, one of which we here illustrate.
+
+A pen of stakes, in the shape of the letter V, is first constructed.
+The trap is then set in the angle, and the bait attached to the
+end stake directly over it. Another method is shown in the picture
+on our title-page to this section, the bait being suspended on a
+stick above the trap. There are various other methods on the same
+principle, which will be described hereafter, under the titles of
+the various game.
+
+
+THE SPRING POLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This is nearly always used in connection with the steel trap, in
+the capture of the smaller land animals. It not only lifts the
+creature into the air, and thus prevents its becoming a prey to
+other animals, but it also guards against the escape of the victim
+by the amputation of its own leg. This is a very common mode of
+release with many kinds of game--notably the mink, marten, and
+muskrat; and for the successful trapping of these, as well as many
+other animals, the spring and sliding pole are absolute necessities.
+It is a simple contrivance, consisting merely of a pole inserted
+in the ground near the trap. The pole is then bent down, and the
+trap chain secured to its end. A small, notched peg is next driven
+into the ground and the top of the pole caught in it, and thus
+held in a bent position. When the animal is caught, its struggles
+release the pole, and the latter, flying up with a jerk,
+[Page 145]
+lifts the trap and its occupant high in the air, out of the reach
+of marauders, and beyond the power of escape by self-amputation.
+Even in the capture of large game the spring pole often serves to
+good purpose. The struggles of a heavy animal are often so violent
+as to break a stout trap or chain; and the force of the spring
+pole, although not sufficient to raise the animal from its feet,
+often succeeds in easing the strain, and often thus saves a trap
+from being broken to pieces. The power of the pole must of course
+be proportionate to the weight of the desired game.
+
+
+
+THE SLIDING POLE.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first impulse with almost every aquatic animal when caught in
+a trap, is to plunge headlong into deep water. With the smaller
+animals, such as the mink and muskrat, this is all that is desired by
+the trapper, as the weight of the trap with the chain is sufficient
+to drown its victim. But with larger animals, the beaver and otter
+for instance, an additional precaution, in the shape of the "sliding
+pole," is necessary. This consists of a pole about ten feet long,
+smoothly trimmed of its branches, excepting at the tip, where a
+few stubs should be left. Insert this end obliquely into the bed
+of the stream, where the water is
+[Page 146]
+deep, and secure the large end to the bank by means of a hooked
+stick, as seen in our illustration. The ring of the chain should
+be large enough to slide easily down the entire length of the pole.
+When the trap is set, the ring should be slipped on the large end
+of the pole, and held in place by resting a stick against it. The
+animal, when caught, plunges off into deep water, and guided by
+the pole, is led to the bottom of the river. The ring slides down
+to the bed of the stream, and there holds its victim until drowned.
+
+
+THE CLOG.
+
+A trap which is set for heavy game should never be secured to a
+stake. Many of the larger and more powerful animals when caught
+in a trap thus secured, are apt either to pull or twist their legs
+off, or break both trap and chain to pieces. To guard against this,
+the chain should be weighted with a pole or small log, of a size
+proportionate to the dimensions of the game, its weight being merely
+sufficient to offer a serious incumbrance to the animal, without
+positively checking its movements. This impediment is called the
+"clog," and is usually attached to the ring of the trap chain by
+its larger end, the ring being slipped over the latter, and secured
+in place by a wedge. A look at our frontispiece will give a clear
+idea of both clog and attachment.
+
+
+[Page 147]
+THE GRAPPLING IRON.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This answers the same purpose as the above, and is often used instead.
+It is manufactured in connection with the larger steel traps, and
+is attached to the chain by a swivel joint. Its general shape is
+shown in an engraving, and it offers a serious resistance to the
+victim, who endeavors to run away with it.
+
+
+THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING.
+
+The business of trapping for profit must be confined to the season
+between the first of October and the beginning of May, as furs
+of all kinds are worthless when taken during the other months of
+the year. The reason of this is obvious. A "_prime fur_" must be
+"_thick_" and "_full_," and as all our fur-bearing animals shed
+their heavy winter coats as warm weather approaches, it necessarily
+follows that the capture at this season would be unprofitable. As
+the autumn approaches the new growth appears, and the fur becomes
+thick and glossy. By the middle of October most furs are in their
+prime, but the heart of winter is the best time for general trapping.
+[Page 148]
+The furs of the mink, muskrat, fisher, marten and beaver are not in
+their perfect prime until this season. And _all_ other furs are
+_sure_ to be in good condition at this time.
+
+
+THE ART OF TRAPPING.
+
+From time immemorial, and in every nation of the world, the art
+of trapping has been more or less practised. By some as a means
+of supplying their wants in the shape of daily food, and by others
+for the purpose of merchandise or profit.
+
+To be a clever and successful trapper, much more is required than
+is generally supposed. The mere fact of a person's being able to
+set a trap cleverly and judiciously forms but a small part of his
+proficiency; and unless he enters deeper into the subject and learns
+something of the nature and habits of the animals he intends to
+catch, his traps will be set in vain, or at best meet with but
+indifferent success. The study of natural history here becomes
+a matter of necessity as well as pleasure and profit. And unless
+the trapper thoroughly acquaints himself with the habits of his
+various game, the sagacity and cunning of his intended victim will
+often outwit his most shrewd endeavors, much to his chagrin. The
+sense of smell, so largely developed in many animals, becomes one
+of the trappers most serious obstacles, and seems at times to amount
+almost to positive _reason_, so perfectly do the creatures baffle
+the most ingenious attempts of man in his efforts to capture them.
+A little insight into the ways of these artful animals, however,
+and a little experience with their odd tricks soon enables one
+to cope with them successfully and overcome their whims. For the
+benefit of the amateur who has not had the opportunity of studying
+for himself, the peculiarities of the various game, the author
+appends a comprehensive chapter on "Practical Natural History,"
+in which will be found full accounts of the peculiar habits and
+leading characteristics of all the various animals commonly sought
+by the trapper, together with detailed directions for trapping
+each variety, supplemented with a faithful portrait of the animal
+in nearly every instance. A careful reading of the above mentioned
+chapter will do much towards acquainting the novice with the ways
+of the sly creatures, which he hopes to victimize, and will thus
+prepare him to contend with them successfully.
+
+In the art of trapping the bait is often entirely dispensed with,
+the traps being set and carefully concealed in the _runways_ of
+the various animals. These by-paths are easily detected by an
+[Page 149]
+experienced trapper, and are indicated either by footprints or
+other evidences of the animal, together with the matted leaves and
+broken twigs and grasses.
+
+Natural channels, such as hollow logs or crevices between rocks
+or fallen trees, offer excellent situations for steel traps, and a
+good trapper is always on the _qui vive_ for such chance advantages,
+thus often saving much of the time and labor which would otherwise
+be spent in the building of artificial enclosures, etc.
+
+The most effective baits used in the art of trapping are those
+which are used to attract the animal through its sense of smell, as
+distinct from that of its mere appetite for food. These baits are
+known in the profession as "medicine," or scent baits and possess
+the most remarkable power of attracting the various animals from
+great distances, and leading them almost irresistibly to any desired
+spot. Such is the barks tone or castoreum, of such value in the
+capture of the beaver, and the oil of anise, so commonly used for
+the trapping of animals in general. These various substances will
+presently be considered under their proper heading.
+
+Many detailed and specific directions on the subject of trapping
+will be found in the long chapter following; and, in closing our
+preliminary remarks, we would add just one more word of general
+caution, which the young trapper should always bear in mind.
+
+In all cases avoid handling the trap with the bare hand. Many an
+amateur has set and _reset_ his traps in vain, and retired from the
+field of trapping in disgust, from the mere want of observing this
+rule. Animals of keen scent are quick in detecting the slightest
+odors, and that left by the touch of a human hand often suffices to
+drive the creature away from a trap which, under other circumstances,
+would have been its certain destruction. To be sure the various
+scent baits already alluded to, will in a measure overcome human
+traces, but not always effectually, and in order to insure success no
+precautions so simple should be neglected. A pair of clean buckskin
+gloves are valuable requisites to the trapper, and should always
+be "on hand" when setting or transporting traps.
+
+
+"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS.
+
+These form one of the most important requisites of the trapper's
+art. A trap baited simply with the food of the
+[Page 150]
+required animal, may and often will be successful, but with the
+addition of the trapper's "medicine" judicially applied, success
+is almost a certainty. These scent baits are of various kinds,
+some being almost universal in their usefulness, while others are
+attractive only to some particular species of animal. We give a
+few of the recipes of the most valued preparations used by trappers
+throughout the land. The application and use of each is fully described
+in its proper place hereafter.
+
+
+CASTOREUM.
+
+This substance, commonly known as "_Barkstone_," by trappers and
+fur dealers, is obtained from the beaver, and is a remarkable aid in
+the capture of that animal. It is an acrid secretion of a powerful
+musky odor, found in two glands beneath the root of the tail of
+the beaver. These glands are about two inches in length. They are
+cut out and the contents are squeezed into a small bottle. When
+fresh the substance is of a yellowish-red color, changing to a
+light-brown when dried. Both male and female animals yield the
+castoreum, but that of the male is generally considered the best.
+Castoreum is a commercial drug, and in many beaver countries it
+is quite an article of trade. There are other sacs lying directly
+behind the castor glands which contain a strong oil of rancid smell.
+This should not be confounded with the Castoreum.
+
+
+CASTOREUM COMPOSITION.
+
+The Barkstone is used both pure and in combination with other
+substances, the following prescription being much used: Into the
+contents of about ten of the castor bags, mix two ground nutmegs,
+thirty or forty cloves, also powdered, one drop essence of peppermint,
+and about two thimblefuls of ground cinnamon. Into this stir as
+much whisky as will give the whole the consistency of paste, after
+which the preparation should be bottled and kept carefully corked.
+At the expiration of a few days the odor increases ten-fold in power
+and is ready for use. A bottle, if thus prepared, will retain its
+strength for nearly a half year, provided it is kept closely corked.
+A few drops of either the pure castoreum or the combination spread
+upon the bait or in the neighborhood of the trap, as described
+under the chapter on the Beaver, will entice that animal from a
+great distance.
+
+
+[Page 151]
+MUSK.
+
+This substance is a secretion obtained from several different animals,
+notably the otter and muskrat. The glands which contain it are
+located similarly to the castor glands of the beaver, and the musk
+should be discharged into a vial, as previously described. The
+musk of the female muskrat is said to be the most powerful, and
+is chiefly used by trappers in the capture of that animal, the
+otter being chiefly attracted by its own musk.
+
+
+ASSAFOETIDA.
+
+This foul smelling production seems to have a specially attractive
+fragrance to many animals, and for general use is much esteemed by
+trappers. It is a vegetable drug from Persia and the East Indies,
+and is imported in the form of concrete juice, of a brown color.
+
+
+OIL OF RHODIUM.
+
+This is a vegetable oil obtained from a species of rose, and is
+quite costly. Its power of attracting animals is surprising, and
+it is in very common use among trappers.
+
+
+FISH OIL.
+
+This is especially useful in the capture of the majority of the
+fur tribe, and particularly the water animals.
+
+The oil may be bought ready for use, or prepared with little trouble.
+The common method consists in cutting up fish of any kind, especially
+eels, into small bits, putting them in a bottle, and setting the
+latter in the full exposure to the sun. It should thus be left
+for about two weeks, at the end of which time a rancid oil will
+have formed. A few drops of this oil will entice many animals from
+surprising distances, often drawing their attention to a bait which
+otherwise they might never have scented.
+
+
+OIL OF SKUNK.
+
+This, the _ne plus ultra_, or quintessence of diabolical stench,
+yields the tempting savor which irresistibly attracts many animals
+to their final doom. It is contained in a pouch beneath the insertion
+of the tail of the animal, and is spread abroad by the
+[Page 152]
+creature with lavish extravagance when circumstances demand, or we
+might say when occasion permits. It may be taken from the animal
+and bottled as already described in other instances, chloride of
+lime being used to eradicate the stench from the hands.
+
+
+OIL OF AMBER.
+
+This substance is frequently referred to in the following pages,
+and is a vegetable product of the amber gum of commerce. The Oil
+of Ambergris is also sometimes used by trappers, and is likewise
+known as Amber Oil. The two are thus often confounded, although
+the former is supposed to be most generally used.
+
+
+OIL OF ANISE.
+
+This is strongly recommended by many trappers as a most excellent
+"universal medicine." It is a vegetable product, and is obtainable
+at any drug store.
+
+SWEET FENNEL.
+
+This plant is commonly cultivated all over the United States, and
+the seeds are often powdered and used as a scent bait. The Oil of
+Fennel is preferable, however, and may be had at almost any drug
+store.
+
+
+CUMMIN.
+
+This is another plant, somewhat resembling the former, and, like
+it, cultivated for its seeds. It has an aromatic taste, and its
+strong pungent odor renders it of great value to the trapper. The
+seeds may be powdered and thus used, or the oil of the plant may
+be easily procured. The latter is preferable.
+
+
+FENUGREEK.
+
+Like the two foregoing this plant is valuable for its seeds, which
+are used for medicinal purposes. The oil or bruised seeds may be
+used.
+
+
+LAVENDER.
+
+This is another aromatic plant, the oil of which, either pure or
+diluted with alcohol, is much used in the trapper's art.
+
+
+[Page 153]
+COMPOUND.
+
+For ordinary use, a mixture of Assafoetida, Musk, Oil of Anise,
+and Fish Oil, together with a few drops of the Oil of Rhodium, is
+especially recommended by our most skilled trappers. This preparation
+contains the various substances which are known to attract the
+different fur bearing animals, and its use often insures success
+where anyone of the simple substances would be ineffectual.
+
+
+THE TRAIL.
+
+The object of the "trail" consists in offering a leading scent
+which, when followed, will bring the animal to the various traps,
+and when properly made will be the means of drawing large numbers
+of game from all quarters and from great distances, whereas without
+it the traps might remain undiscovered.
+
+Trails are sometimes made to connect a line of traps, as when set
+along the banks of streams for mink, etc., at other times, as in
+trapping the fox, for instance, they should extend from the trap on
+all sides, like the spokes of a wheel from the hub, thus covering
+considerable area, and rendering success more certain than it would
+be without this precaution.
+
+The combination "medicine" just described is excellent for the
+purposes of a trail for minks, otter, muskrat, and many other animals.
+
+Soak a piece of meat, or piece of wood in the preparation, and
+drag it along the ground between the traps. A dead fish smeared
+with the fluid will also answer the same purpose. The soles of
+the boots may also be smeared with the "medicine" and the trail
+thus accomplished. Trails of various kinds are considered under
+their respective and appropriate heads in the chapters on animals,
+all of which will be found useful and effective.
+
+
+HOW TO TRAP.
+
+In the following pages will be found full and ample directions
+for the trapping of all our leading game, together with detailed
+descriptions of peculiar habits of each species. The various articles
+contain careful descriptions, whereby the species may be readily
+recognized, and, in nearly every case, are accompanied by faithful
+illustrations. We add also valuable directions for the best manner of
+removing the skin of each animal, this being a matter of considerable
+importance, as affecting their pecuniary value.
+
+
+[Page 154]
+THE FOX.
+
+Foremost in the list of animals noted for their sly craft, and
+the hero of a host of fables and well-authenticated stories, in
+which artful cunning gains the advantage over human intelligence,
+Reynard, the fox, reigns supreme. There is scarcely a professional
+trapper in the land who has not, in his day, been hoodwinked by the
+wily strategy of this sly creature, whose extreme cunning renders
+him the most difficult of all animals to trap. The fox belongs to
+the Dog family, and there are six varieties inhabiting the United
+States. The red species is the most common and is too well known
+to need a description here. The Cross Fox considerably resembles
+the above, only being much darker in color, the red hair being
+thickly speckled with black. This species varies considerably in
+color in different individuals, often much resembling the red variety,
+and again approaching nearer in color to the Black or Silver Fox.
+This variation, together with the name of the animal, has given
+rise among trappers to the wide-spread belief of the animal being
+a cross between the two species which it so nearly resembles. It
+seems to be a permanent variety, however, the term cross being
+applied, we believe, on account of a dark marking on the back,
+between the shoulders of the animal, suggestive of that title.
+The Silver or Black Fox is the most beautiful and most rare of the
+genus, and yields the most valuable fur produced in this country.
+Its color is black, with the exception of the tip of the tail,
+which is white. The Prairie Fox is the largest of the species. It
+inhabits the Western Prairies, and in color resembles the common
+red variety, only being a trifle yellower.
+
+The Kit, or Swift Fox, is smaller than the Red, and abounds in the
+Western States.
+
+The Gray Fox is a Southern variety, and is very beautiful. It is
+less daring and cunning than the Common Fox, and seldom approaches
+a farm-yard, where it is in close proximity to a dwelling.
+
+The general habits and characteristics of all the foxes are similar.
+For natural cunning they take the lead of all other animals. They
+are all built for speed, and their senses of smell and hearing
+are acutely developed. Their food consists of wild fowl of all
+kinds, rabbits, squirrels, birds and their eggs, together with
+many kinds of ripe fruits, "sour grapes" not included. They live
+in burrows, often usurped, or crevices between rocks; and their
+[Page 155]
+young, from three to nine in number, are brought forth in March.
+
+We are strongly tempted to narrate a few remarkable instances of
+the animal's cunning, but we forbear for want of space. Our reader
+must take it for granted that when he attempts to trap a fox, he
+will be likely to find more than his match in the superior craftiness
+of that animal. If the trap is overturned and the bait gone, or if
+repeatedly sprung and found empty, he must not he surprised or
+discouraged, for he is experiencing only what all other trappers
+have experienced before him. There are instances on record where
+this knowing creature has sprung the trap by dropping a stick upon
+the pan, afterwards removing the suspended bait to enjoy it at
+his leisure. His movements are as lithe and subtile as those of
+a snake, and when "cornered" there is no telling what caper that
+cunning instinct and subtlety of body will not lead him to perform.
+When pursued by hounds he has been known to lead them a long chase
+at full speed up to the crest of a hill: here he leaps a shrub,
+swiftly as an arrow, and landing on the ground on the opposite
+declivity quickly returns beneath the brushwood and crouches down
+closely upon the ground. Presently the hounds come along in full
+cry, and blazing scent they dart over the shrub in full pursuit,
+dash down the hillside, never stopping until at the bottom of the
+hill they find they are off the trail. As soon as the hounds are
+passed, sly Reynard cautiously takes to his legs: creeping adroitly
+back over the brow of the hill, he runs for a considerable distance
+on his back trail, and at last, after taking a series of long jumps
+therefrom returns to his covert at leisure. Page after page might
+be filled to the glory of this creature's cunning, but enough has
+been said to give the young trapper an insight into the character
+of the animal he hopes to victimize, and prepare him for a trial
+of skill which, without this knowledge, would be a most one-sided
+affair.
+
+We would not advise our young amateur to calculate very confidently
+on securing a fox at the first attempt, but we can truthfully vouch
+that if the creature can be _caught at all_, it can be done by
+following the directions we now give.
+
+One of the most essential things in the trapping of this, as well
+as nearly all animals, is that the trap should be _perfectly clean
+and free from rust_. The steel trap No.2, page 141 is the best
+for animals of the size of the Fox. The trap should be washed in
+weak lye, being afterwards well greased and finally smoked over
+burning hen's feathers.
+
+[Page 156]
+All this and even more precaution is necessary. No matter how strongly
+scented the trap may be, with the smoke, or other substances, a
+mere touch of the bare hand will leave a _human scent_ which the
+fox perceives as soon as the other, and this is enough to deaden
+his enthusiasm over the most tempting bait.
+
+On this account, it is necessary always to handle the trap with
+buckskin gloves, never allowing the bare hand to come in contact
+with it, on any account, after once prepared for setting.
+
+Before arranging the trap for its work, it is necessary to construct
+what is called a "bed." There are several methods of doing this;
+but from all we can learn from the most experienced trappers, the
+following is the most successful. The bed should be made on flat
+ground, using any of the following substances: Buckwheat chaff,
+which is the best, oat, wheat, or hay chaff, or in lieu of these,
+moss or wood ashes. Let the bed be three feet in diameter, and an
+inch and a half in depth. To insure success it is the best plan
+to bait the bed itself for several days with scraps of beef or
+cheese strewn upon, and near it. If the fox once visits the place,
+discovers the tempting morsels and enjoys a good meal unmolested,
+he will be sure to revisit the spot so long as he finds a "free
+lunch" awaiting him. When he is found to come regularly and take
+the bait, he is as good as caught, provided our instructions are
+carefully followed. Take the trap, previously prepared as already
+described, chain it securely to a small log of wood about two feet
+long. Dig a hole in the earth in the centre of the bed, large enough
+to receive the trap, with its log, and chain. Set the traps, supporting
+the pan by pushing some of the chaff beneath it. Now lay a piece
+of paper over the pan and sprinkle the chaff over it evenly and
+smoothly, until every trace of the trap and its appendages is
+obliterated. Endeavor to make the bed look as it has previously
+done, and bait it with the same materials. Avoid treading much
+about the bed and step in the same tracks as far as possible. Touch
+nothing with the naked hands. Cover up all the footprints as much
+as possible, and leave the trap to take care of itself and any
+intruder. If our directions have been accurately followed, and due
+care has been exercised on the part of the young trapper, there
+is every probability that the next morning will reward him with
+his fox. But if a day or two elapse without success, it is well to
+resort to the "scent baits" described on page 149. Take the trap
+out of the bed, and with a feather smear it with melted beeswax,
+or rub it with a little Oil of Rhodium, Assafoetida, or Musk. Oil
+of Amber, and Lavender water are also used for the same
+[Page 157]
+purpose by many professional trappers. These are not always necessary
+but are often used as a last resort, and will most always insure
+success.
+
+Another method of baiting is shown in our page illustration opposite,
+and consists in suspending the bait by a stick in such a position
+that the fox will be obliged to step upon the trap in order to
+reach it. The bed should be baited in this way several times before
+the trap is set. This method is very commonly employed.
+
+Another still, is to bury the dead body of a rabbit or bird in
+loose earth, covering the whole with chaff. Sprinkle a few drops
+of Musk, or Oil of Amber over the bed. After the fox has taken
+the bait, the place should be rebaited and the trap inserted in
+the mound and covered with the chaff, being scented as before.
+
+Some trappers employ the following method with good results: The
+trap is set, in a spring or at the edge of a small shallow brook
+and attached by a chain to a stake in the bank, the chain being
+under water. There should be only about an inch and a half of water
+over the trap, and its distance from the shore should be about
+a foot and a half, or even less. In order to induce the fox to
+place his foot in the trap it is necessary to cut a sod of grass,
+just the size of the inside of the jaws of the trap, and place it
+over the pan, so that it will project above the water and offer
+a tempting foot rest for the animal while he reaches for the bait
+which rests in the water just beyond. To accomplish this device
+without springing the trap by the weight of the sod, it is necessary
+to brace up the pan from beneath with a small perpendicular stick,
+sufficiently to neutralize the pressure from above. The bait may
+be a dead rabbit or bird thrown on the water outside of the trap
+and about a foot from it, being secured by a string and peg. If
+the fox spies the bait he will be almost sure to step upon the
+sod to reach it, and thus get caught.
+
+If none of these methods are successful, the young trapper may at
+least content himself with the idea that the particular fox he is
+after is an _old fellow_ and is "not to be caught with chaff" or
+any thing else,--for if these devices will not secure him _nothing_
+will. If he is a young and comparatively unsophisticated specimen,
+he will fall an easy victim to any of the foregoing stratagems.
+
+Although steel traps are generally used in the capture of foxes,
+a cleverly constructed and baited dead-fall such as is described
+on page 113 will often do capital service in that direction. By
+[Page 158]
+arranging and baiting the trap as therein described, even a fox
+is _likely to become_ its prey.
+
+To skin the fox the pelt should be first ripped down each hind
+leg to the vent. The skin being cut loose around this point, the
+bone of the tail should next be removed. This may be done by holding
+a split stick tightly over the bone after which the latter may be
+easily pulled out of the skin.
+
+The hide should then be drawn back, and carefully removed, working
+with caution around the legs, and particularly so about the eyes,
+ears, and lips when these points are reached. The skin should be
+stretched as described on page 273.
+
+
+THE WOLF.
+
+The United States are blessed with several species of this animal.
+The Grey Wolf, which is the largest, and the smaller, Prairie Wolf
+or Coyote, being the most commonly known. There are also the White
+Wolf, Black Wolf and the Texan or Red Wolf. In outward form they
+all bear a considerable resemblance to each other, and their habits
+are generally similar in the different varieties.
+
+Wolves are fierce and dangerous animals, and are very powerful of
+limb and fleet of foot. They are extremely cowardly in character,
+and will seldom attack man or animal except when by their greater
+numbers they would be sure of victory. Wolves are found in almost
+every quarter of the globe. Mountain and plain, field, jungle and
+prairie are alike infested with them, and they hunt in united bands,
+feeding upon almost any animal which by their combined attacks
+they can overpower.
+
+Their inroads upon herds and sheep folds are sometimes horrifying,
+and a single wolf has been known to kill as many as forty sheep
+in a single night, seemingly from mere blood-thirsty desire.
+
+In the early colonization of America, wolves ran wild over the
+country in immense numbers, and were a source of great danger;
+but now, owing to wide-spread civilization, they have disappeared
+from the more settled localities and are chiefly found in Western
+wilds and prairie lands.
+
+The Grey Wolf is the largest and most formidable representative of
+the Dog tribe on this continent. Its general appearance is truthfully
+given in our drawing. Its length, exclusive of the tail, is about
+four feet, the length of the tail being about a foot and a half.
+Its color varies from yellowish grey to almost
+[Page 159]
+white in the northern countries, in which latitude the animal is
+sometimes found of an enormous size, measuring nearly seven feet in
+length. The fur is coarse and shaggy about the neck and haunches,
+and the tail is bushy. They abound in the region east of the Rocky
+Mountains and northward, and travel in packs of hundreds in search
+of prey. Bisons, wild horses, deer and even bears fall victims
+to their united fierceness, and human beings, too, often fall a
+prey to their ferocious attacks.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Coyote, or Common Prairie Wolf, also known as the Burrowing
+Wolf, as its name implies inhabits the Western plains and prairies.
+They are much smaller than the Grey Wolf, and not so dangerous. They
+travel in bands and unitedly attack whatever animal they desire
+to kill. Their homes are made in burrows which they excavate in the
+ground. The Texan Wolf inhabits the latitude of Texas and southward.
+It is of a tawny red color and nearly as large as the grey species,
+possessing the same savage nature.
+
+In April or May the female wolf retires to her burrow or den, and
+her young, from six to ten in number, are brought forth.
+
+The wolf is almost as sly and cunning as the fox, and the same
+caution is required in trapping the animal. They are extremely keen
+scented, and the mere touch of a human hand on the trap is often
+enough to preclude the possibility of capture. A mere footprint,
+or the scent of tobacco juice, they look upon with great suspicion,
+[Page 160]
+and the presence of either will often prevent success.
+
+The same directions given in regard to trapping the fox are equally
+adapted for the wolf. The trap (size No, 4, page 141) should be
+smoked or smeared with beeswax or blood, and set in a bed of ashes
+or other material as therein described, covering with moss, chaff,
+leaves or some other light substance. The clog should be fully
+twice as heavy as that used for the fox. Some trappers rub the
+traps with "brake leaves," sweet fern, or even skunk's cabbage.
+Gloves should always be worn in handling the traps, and all tracks
+should be obliterated as much as if a fox were the object sought
+to be secured.
+
+A common way of securing the wolf consists in setting the trap
+in a spring or puddle of water, throwing the dead body of some
+large animal in the water beyond the trap in such a position that
+the wolf will be obliged to tread upon the trap, in order to reach
+the bait. This method is described both under the head of the Fox
+and the Bear.
+
+Another plan is to fasten the bait between two trees which are
+very close together, setting a trap on each side and carefully
+concealing them as already directed, and securing each to a clog
+of about twenty pounds in weight. The enclosure described on page
+144 is also successful.
+
+There are various scent or trail baits used in trapping the wolf.
+Oil of Assafoetida is by many trappers considered the best, but
+Oil of Rhodium, powdered fennel, fenugreek and Cummin Oil are also
+much used. It is well to smear a little of the first mentioned oil
+near the traps, using any one of the other substances, or indeed a
+mixture of them all, for the trail. This may be made by smearing the
+preparation on the sole of the boots and walking in the direction
+of the traps, or by dragging from one trap to another a piece of
+meat scented with the substance, as described under the head of
+Mink.
+
+The wolf is an adept at feigning death, playing "'possum" with a
+skill which would do credit to that veritable animal itself.
+
+A large dead-fall, constructed of logs, page 17, when skilfully
+scented and baited, will often allure a wolf into its clutches,
+and a very strong twitch-up, with a noose formed of heavy wire, or
+a strip of stout calf hide, will successfully capture the crafty
+creature.
+
+In skinning the wolf the hide may be removed either by, first ripping
+up the belly, or in a circular piece, as described connection with
+the fox, both methods being much used. The board and hoop stretchers
+[Page 161]
+used in preparing the skin are described on pages 273 and 275.
+
+
+THE PUMA.
+
+The puma, commonly known also as the panther or cougar, is the
+largest American representative of the Cat tribe, and for this
+reason is often dignified by the name of the "American Lion." It
+is found more or less abundantly throughout the United States;
+and although not generally considered a dangerous foe to mankind,
+it has often been known in the wild districts to steal upon the
+traveller unawares, and in many instances human beings have fallen
+a prey to the powerful claws and teeth of this powerful animal.
+
+The life of the puma is mostly in the trees. Crouching upon the
+branches it watches for, or steals, cat-like, upon its prey. Should
+a solitary animal pass within reach, the puma will not hesitate in
+pouncing upon the unfortunate creature; but if a herd of animals,
+or party of men, should be travelling together, the caution of
+the brute asserts itself, and he will often dog their footsteps
+for a great distance, in hopes of securing a straggler. Birds are
+struck down by a single blow of the puma's ready paw, and so quick
+are his movements that even though a bird has risen on the wing,
+he can often make one of his wonderful bounds, and with a light,
+quick stroke, arrest the winged prey before it has time to soar
+beyond reach. The puma is a good angler. Sitting by the water's
+edge he watches for his victims, and no sooner does an unfortunate
+fish swim within reach, than the nimble paw is outstretched, and
+it is swept out of the water on dry land, and eagerly devoured.
+
+A puma has been known to follow the track of travellers for days
+together, only daring to show itself at rare intervals, and never
+endeavoring to make an attack except through stealth. The animal
+will often approach cautiously upon a traveller until sufficiently
+near to make its fatal spring; but if the pursued party suddenly turn
+round and face the crawling creature, the beast becomes discomfited
+at once, and will retreat from the gaze which seems to it a positive
+terror. So long as a puma can be kept in sight, no danger need be
+feared from the animal but it will improve every opportunity of
+springing unobservedly upon a heedless passer by. The total length
+of the puma is six feet and a half, of which the tail occupies a
+little over two feet. Its color is of a uniform light tawny tint,
+fading into light grey on the under parts, and the tip of the tail
+[Page 162]
+is black. The puma is one of the few members of the Cat tribe, which
+are without the usual spots or stripes so observable in the tiger and
+leopard. The lion has the same uniformity of color, and it is perhaps
+partly on that account that the panther is so often known as the
+American lion. In infancy the young pumas possess decided tiger-like
+markings, and leopard-like spots, but these disappear altogether as
+the animal increases in size. The cougar has learned by experience a
+wholesome fear of man, and as civilization has extended throughout
+our country, the animals have been forced to retire from the neighborhood
+of human habitations and hide themselves in thick, uncultivated forest
+lands.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Sometimes, however, the animal, urged by fierce hunger, will venture
+on a marauding expedition for several miles, and although not an
+object of personal dread to the inhabitants, he often becomes a
+pestilent neighbor to the farmer, committing great ravages among
+his flocks and herds, and making sad havoc in his poultry yard.
+It is not the fortune of every puma, however, to reside in the
+neighborhood of such easy prey as pigs, sheep and poultry, and the
+greater number of these animals are forced to depend for their
+[Page 163]
+subsistence on their own success in chasing or surprising the various
+animals on which they feed.
+
+When a puma is treed by hunters, it is said to show great skill
+in selecting a spot wherein it shall be best concealed from the
+gazers below, and will even draw the neighboring branches about
+its body to hide itself from the aim of the hunter's rifle. While
+thus lying upon the branches the beast is almost invisible from
+below, as its fur, when seen, harmonizes so well with the the bark
+which covers the boughs, that the one can scarcely be distinguished
+from the other.
+
+The puma loves to hide in the branches of trees, and from this
+eminence to launch itself upon the doomed animal that may pass within
+its reach. It may, therefore, be easily imagined how treacherous a
+foe the creature may be when ranging at will among the countless
+trees and jungles of our American forests.
+
+Although so stealthy and sly a creature the cougar possesses very
+little cunning and is easily trapped. The Gun trap, page 20, is
+commonly and successfully employed in South America in the capture
+of the jaguar, as our title illustration, page 15, represents, and
+it may also be used with the same success in trapping the puma.
+The Bow trap, page 23, and the dead-fall described in the early part
+of the book, will all be found to work admirably in the destruction
+of this treacherous beast.
+
+The animal may be entrapped alive, should any of our young trappers
+dare to try the experiment.
+
+There are two ways of accomplishing this. The first is by the aid
+of a huge coop of logs, as described on page 30 or 33, and the other
+by the Pit-fall, as exemplified on page 31. Huge twitch-ups may
+also be constructed, using very strong wire. The bait may consist
+of a fowl, sheep's head, or the heart of any animal. Fresh meat of
+any kind will answer the purpose, and in the case of the Pit-fall
+a live fowl is preferable to a dead one as it will attract the
+puma by its motions, or by its cackling, and thus induce him to
+_spring_ upon his prey, which will precipitate him to the bottom
+of the pit and thus effect his capture.
+
+They are commonly taken with the steel trap. The puma seldom leaves
+the vicinity of the carcass of an animal it has killed until it is
+all devoured. When such a carcass can be found the capture of the
+beast is easily effected. Set the trap, size No. 5, page 143, near
+the remains, and cover the carcass with leaves. The next visit of
+the animal will find him _more attached_ to the place than ever,--so
+much so that he will be unable to "_tear himself away_."
+
+[Page 164]
+The skin of the puma is properly removed by first cutting up the
+belly as described under the Beaver, using great care about the
+head and face. Use the hoop stretcher, page 275.
+
+
+THE CANADIAN LYNX.
+
+The lynx represents another of the Cat tribe, and as its name implies
+is a native of the regions north of the United States, although
+sometimes found in upper Maine and on the lower borders of the
+great lakes. It is commonly known throughout Canada as the Peshoo,
+or "Le Chat."
+
+Our illustration is a truthful representation of the animal. Its
+total length exceeds three feet, and its tail is a mere stub. The
+fur is thick, and the hairs are long, the general color being grey,
+sprinkled with black. The legs are generally darker than the body,
+and the ears are often edged with white. The limbs and muscles
+are very powerful, the paws are very large for the size of the
+animal, and are furnished with strong white claws, which are imbedded
+in the fur of the feet when not in use, they are shown in our
+illustration. The ears of the lynx form a distinct feature, by
+which the animal could be easily identified; they are long and
+tipped with stiff projecting hairs, giving the creature a very odd
+appearance.
+
+The peshoo can not be said to be a very dangerous animal, unless
+it is attacked, when it becomes a most ferocious antagonist. The
+writer knew of a gentleman who was pounced upon and very nearly
+killed by one of these infuriated creatures, and there are many
+like instances on record.
+
+The principal food of the lynx consists of the smaller quadrupeds,
+the American hare being its favorite article of diet. It is a good
+swimmer, and a most agile climber, chasing its prey among the branches
+with great stealth and dexterity. Like the wolf, fox, and many
+other flesh eating-animals, the lynx does not content itself with
+the creatures which fall by the stroke of its own talons, or the
+grip of its own teeth, but will follow the trail of the puma, in
+its nocturnal quest after prey, and thankfully partake of the feast
+which remains after its predecessor has satisfied its appetite.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+While running at full speed, the lynx presents a most ludicrous
+appearance, owing to its peculiar manner of leaping. It progresses
+in successive bounds, with its back slightly arched, and all the
+feet striking the ground nearly at the same instant. Powerful as
+the animal is, it is easily killed by a blow on the
+[Page 165]
+back, a slight stick being a sufficient weapon wherewith to destroy
+the creature. For this reason the "Dead-fall" is particularly adapted
+for its capture, and is very successful, as the animal possesses
+very little cunning, and will enter an enclosure of any kind without
+the slightest compunction, when a tempting bait is in view. The
+dead-fall should of course be constructed on a large scale, and
+it is a good plan to have the enclosure deep, and the bait as far
+back as will necessitate the animal being well under the suspended
+log in order to reach it. The bait may consist of a dead quadruped
+or of fresh meat of any kind.
+
+The Gun trap, page 20, and the Bow trap, page 23, will also be
+found efficient, and a very powerful twitch-up, constructed from a
+stout pole and extra strong wire will also serve to good purpose.
+The lynx is not so prolific as many of the feline tribe, the number
+of its young seldom exceeding two, and this only once a year. The
+fur of the animal is valuable for the purposes to which the feline
+skin is generally adapted, and commands a fair price in the market.
+Those who hunt or trap the lynx will do well to choose the winter
+months for the time of their operations, as during the cold season
+the animal possesses a thicker and warmer fur than it offers in
+the summer months.
+
+When the steel trap is used, it should be of size No. 4, page
+[Page 166]
+141, set at the opening of a pen of stakes, the bait being placed
+at the back of the enclosure in such a position, as that the animal
+will be obliged to step upon the pan of the trap in order to reach
+it. Any of the devices described under "Hints on Baiting" will
+be found successful.
+
+The skin of the animal may be removed as directed in the case of
+the fox, being drawn off the body whole, or it may be removed after
+the manner of the beaver, and similarly stretched.
+
+
+THE WILD CAT.
+
+This animal is one of the most wide-spread species of the Cat tribe,
+being found not only in America, but throughout nearly the whole
+of Europe as well as in Northern Asia. In many parts of the United
+States, where the wild cat was wont to flourish, it has become
+exterminated, owing to civilization and the destruction of forest
+lands.
+
+Many naturalists are of the opinion that the wild cat is the original
+progenitor of our domestic cat, but there is much difference of opinion
+in regard to the subject. Although they bear great resemblance to
+each other, there are several points of distinction between the
+two; one of the most decided differences being in the comparative
+length of the tails. The tail of the wild cat is little more than
+half the length of that of the domestic cat, and much more bushy.
+
+The color of the wild animal is much more uniform than in the great
+raft of "domestic" mongrel specimens which make night hideous with
+their discordant yowls, although we sometimes see a high bred individual
+which, if his tail was cut off at half its length, might easily
+pass as an example of the wild variety.
+
+The ground tint of the fur in the wild cat is yellowish grey,
+diversified with dark streaks over the body and limbs, much after
+the appearance of the so-called "tiger cat." A row of dark streaks
+and spots extends along the spine, and the tail is thick, short
+and bushy, tipped with black and encircled with a number of rings
+of a dark hue. In some individuals the markings are less distinct,
+and they are sometimes altogether wanting, but in the typical wild
+cat they are quite prominent. The fur is rather long and thick,
+particularly so during the winter season, and always in the colder
+northern regions.
+
+The amount of havoc which these creatures often occasion is surprising,
+and their nocturnal inroads, in poultry yards and
+[Page 167]
+sheep folds, render them most hated pests to farmers in the countries
+where these animals abound. They seem to have a special appetite
+for the _heads_ of fowls, and will often decapitate a half dozen
+in a single night, leaving the bodies in otherwise good condition
+to tell the story of their midnight murders. The home of the wild
+cat is made in some cleft of rock, or in the hollow of some aged
+tree, from which the creature issues in the dark hours and starts
+upon its marauding excursions. Its family numbers from three to
+six, and the female parent is smaller than the male, the total
+length of the latter being three feet.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Inhabiting the most lonely and inaccessible ranges of rock and
+mountain, the wild cat is seldom seen during the daytime. At night,
+like its domestic relative, he prowls far and wide, walking with
+the same stealthy step and hunting his game in the same tiger-like
+manner. He is by no means a difficult animal to trap, being easily
+deceived and taking a bait without any hesitation. The wild cat
+haunts the shores of lakes and rivers, and it is here that the
+traps may be set for them. Having caught and killed one of the
+colony, the rest of them can be easily taken if the body of the
+dead victim be left near their hunting ground and surrounded with
+the traps carefully set and concealed beneath leaves moss or the like.
+[Page 168]
+Every wild cat that is in the neighborhood will be certain to visit
+the body, and if the traps are rightly arranged many will be caught.
+The trap No. 3, page 141 is generally used. We would caution the young
+trapper in his approach to an entrapped wild cat, as the strength and
+ferocity of this animal under such circumstances, or when otherwise
+"hard pressed," is perfectly amazing. When caught in a trap they
+spring with terrible fury at any one who approaches them, not waiting
+to be assailed, and when cornered or hemmed in by a hunter they
+will often turn upon their pursuer, and springing at his face will
+attack him with most consummate fury, often inflicting serious
+and sometimes fatal wounds. When hunted and attacked by dogs, the
+wild cat is a most desperate and untiring fighter, and extremely
+difficult to kill, for which reason it has been truthfully said
+that "if a tame cat has nine lives, a _wild cat_ must have a dozen."
+
+The twitch-up, erected on a large scale, is utilized to a considerable
+extent in England in the capture of these animals; and these, together
+with steel traps and dead-falls, are about the only machines used
+for their capture. We would suggest the garrote, bow and gun trap
+also as being very effective. The bait may consist of the head
+of a fowl or a piece of rabbit or fowl flesh: or, indeed, flesh
+of almost any kind will answer, particularly of the bird kind.
+
+In skinning the wild cat the same directions given under the head
+of the Fox may be followed, or the pelt may be ripped up the belly
+and spread on a hoop stretcher, page 275.
+
+
+THE BEAR.
+
+There are several species of the Bear tribe which inhabit our continent,
+the most prominent of which are the Grizzly, and the Musquaw or
+common Black Bear. There is no other animal of this country which
+is more widely and deservedly dreaded than the grizzly bear. There
+are other creatures, the puma and wild cat, for instance, which
+are dangerous when cornered or wounded, but they are not given to
+open and deliberate attack upon human beings. The grizzly, however,
+or "Ephraim," as he is commonly termed by trappers, often displays
+a most unpleasant readiness to attack and pursue a man, even in
+the face of fire arms. In many localities, however, where hunting
+has been pursued to considerable extent, these animals have learned
+from experience a wholesome fear of man, and are not so ready to
+assume the offensive, but a "_wounded_" grizzly is one of the
+[Page 169]
+most horrible antagonists of which it is possible to conceive,
+rushing upon its victim with terrible fury, and dealing most tearing
+and heavy blows with its huge claws.
+
+In length this formidable animal often exceeds eight feet, and its
+color varies from yellowish to brownish black, and some specimens
+are found of a dirty grey color.
+
+The legs are usually darker than the rest of the body, and the
+face is generally of a lighter tint. The fore limbs of the animal
+are immensely powerful; and the foot of a full-grown individual
+is fully eighteen inches long, and armed with claws five inches
+in length. The grizzly inhabits the Rocky Mountain regions and
+northward, being found in considerable numbers in the western part
+of British America. Its hair is thick and coarse, except in the
+young animal, which possesses a beautiful fur.
+
+All other creatures seem to stand in fear of this formidable beast.
+Even the huge bison, or buffalo, of the Western Prairies sometimes
+falls a victim to the grizzly bear, and the very imprint of a bear's
+foot upon the soil is a warning which not even a hungry wolf will
+disregard.
+
+Its food consists of whatever animal it can seize, whether human
+or otherwise. He also devours green corn, nuts, and fruits of all
+kinds. In his earlier years he is a good climber, and will ascend
+a tree with an agility which is surprisingly inconsistent with
+the unwieldy proportions of his body.
+
+The average weight of a full-grown grizzly is over eight hundred
+pounds, and the girth around the body is about eight feet.
+
+The Black bear, or Musquaw, which we illustrate is common throughout
+nearly all the half settled-districts of North America. But as the
+fur and fat are articles of great commercial value, the hunters
+and trappers have exercised their craft with such skill and
+determination that the animals are gradually decreasing in numbers.
+The total length of the black bear is seldom more than six feet,
+and its fur is smooth and glossy in appearance. The color of the
+animal is rightly conveyed by its name, the cheeks only partaking
+of a reddish fawn color.
+
+It possesses little of that fierceness which characterizes the
+grizzly, being naturally a very quiet and retiring creature, keeping
+itself aloof from mankind, and never venturing near his habitations
+except when excited by the pangs of fierce hunger. When pursued
+or cornered it becomes a dangerous antagonist; and its furious
+rage often results in fearful catastrophes to both man and beast.
+Nothing but a rifle ball in the right spot will
+[Page 170]
+check the creature, when wrought up to this pitch of fury, and an
+additional wound only serves to increase its terrible ferocity.
+Bear-chasing is an extremely dangerous sport; and there are few
+bear-hunters in the land, however skilful, but what can show scars
+from the claws or teeth of some exasperated bruin.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The food of the black bear is mostly of a vegetable character,
+animal diet not being indulged in unless pressed by hunger. At
+such times it seems to especially prefer a young pig as the most
+desirable delicacy; and even full-grown hogs, it is said, are sometimes
+lifted from their pens and carried off in his deadly embrace.
+
+Honey is his especial delight; and he will climb trees with great
+agility in order to reach a nest of bees, there being few obstacles
+which his ready claws and teeth will not remove where that dainty
+is in view. He is also very fond of acorns, berries, and fruits
+of all kinds.
+
+The young of the bear are produced in January or February, and
+are from one to four in number. They are very small and covered
+with grey hair, which coat they retain until they are one year of
+age. The flesh of the bear is held in high esteem among hunters,
+and when properly prepared is greatly esteemed by epicures.
+
+The fat of the animal is much used under the title of "Bear
+[Page 171]
+grease," and is believed to be an infallible hair rejuvenator, and
+therefore becomes a valuable article of commerce.
+
+The bear generally hibernates during the winter, choosing some
+comfortable residence which it has prepared in the course of the
+summer, or perhaps betaking itself to the hollow of some tree.
+Sometimes, in case of early snow, the track of the bears may be
+distinguished, and if followed will probably lead to their dens,
+in which they can be secured with logs until it is desired to kill
+them.
+
+The black bear has a habit of treading in a beaten track, which
+is easily detected by the eye of an experienced hunter or trapper,
+and turned to good account in trapping the animal.
+
+There are various modes of accomplishing this result. The bear
+Dead-fall, described on page 17, is, perhaps, the most commonly
+used, and the Pit-fall, page 31, and "Giant Coop" trap are also
+excellent. The Gun trap and stone dead-fall, page 20, we also
+confidently recommend. When a steel trap is used it requires the
+largest size, especially made for the purpose. It should be supplied
+with a short and very strong chain firmly secured to a very heavy
+clog or grappling-iron page 147. If secured to a tree or other
+stationary object, the captured animal is likely to gnaw or tear
+his foot away, if, indeed, he does not break the trap altogether
+by the quick tightening of the chain. The clog should be only heavy
+enough to be an _impediment_, and may consist of a log or heavy
+stone. The grappling-iron, however, is more often used in connection
+with the bear trap. It is a common method in trapping the bear
+to construct a pen of upright branches, laying the trap at its
+opening, and covering it with leaves. The bait is then placed at
+the back in such a position that the animal, on reaching for it,
+will be sure to put his foot in the trap.
+
+An experienced trapper soon discovers natural openings between
+rocks or trees, which may be easily modified, and by the addition
+of a few logs so improved upon as to answer his purpose as well as
+a more elaborate enclosure, with much less trouble. Any arrangement
+whereby the bear will be obliged to tread upon the trap in order
+to secure the bait, is, of course, all that is required. The bait
+may be hung on the edge of a rock five feet from the ground, and
+the trap set on a smaller rock beneath it. He will thus be almost
+sure to rest his forefoot on the latter rock in order to reach
+the bait, and will thus be captured.
+
+Another way is to set the trap in a spring of water or swampy
+[Page 172]
+spot. Lay a lump of moss over the pan, suspending the bait beyond
+the trap. The moss will offer a natural foot-rest, and the offending
+paw will be secured.
+
+Bears possess but little cunning, and will enter any nook or corner
+without the slightest compunction when in quest of food. They are
+especially fond of sweets, and, as we have said, are strongly attracted
+by honey, being able to scent it from a great distance. On this
+account it is always used, when possible, by trappers in connection
+with other baits. These may consist of a fowl, fruit, or flesh of
+any kind, and the honey should be smeared over it. Skunk cabbage
+is said to be an excellent bait for the bear; and in all cases a
+free use of the Oil of Anise page 152, sprinkling it about the
+traps, is also advisable. Should the device fail, it is well to
+make a trail (see page 153) in several directions from the trap,
+and extending for several rods. A piece of wood, wet with Oil of
+Anise, will answer for the purpose.
+
+The general method of skinning the bear consists in first cutting
+from the front of the lower jaw down the belly to the vent, after
+which the hide may be easily removed. The hoop-stretcher page 275,
+will then come into good use in the drying and preparing of the
+skin for market.
+
+
+THE RACCOON.
+
+Although allied to the Bear family, this animal possesses much
+in common with the fox, as regards its general disposition and
+character. It has the same slyness and cunning, the same stealthy
+tread, besides an additional mischievousness and greed. It is too
+common to need any description here, being found plentifully throughout
+nearly the whole United States. The bushy tail, with its dark rings,
+will be sufficient to identify the animal in any community. Raccoon
+hunts form the subject of many very exciting and laughable stories,
+and a "coon chase," to this day is a favorite sport all over the
+country. The raccoon, or "coon," as he is popularly styled, is
+generally hunted by moonlight. An experienced dog is usually set
+on the trail and the fugitive soon seeks refuge in a tree, when
+its destruction is almost certain. Hence the term "treed coon," as
+applied to an individual when in a dangerous predicament. Besides
+possessing many of the peculiarities of the fox, the "coon" has
+the additional accomplishment of being a most agile and expert
+climber, holding so firmly to the limb by its sharp claws as to
+defy all attempts to shake it off.
+
+[Page 173]
+The home of the raccoon is generally in a hollow tree; the young
+are brought forth in May, and are from four to six in number.
+
+In captivity this animal makes a very cunning and interesting pet,
+being easily tamed to follow its master, and when dainties are in
+view becomes a most adroit pickpocket. Its food is extensive in
+variety, thus making it quite an easy matter to keep the creature
+in confinement. Nuts and fruits of all kinds it eagerly devours,
+as well as bread, cake and potatoes. It manifests no hesitation
+at a meal of rabbit, rat, squirrel, or bird, and rather likes it
+for a change, and when he can partake of a dessert of honey or
+molasses his enjoyment knows no bounds. Frogs, fresh water clams,
+green corn, and a host of other delicacies come within the range
+of his diet, and he may sometimes be seen digging from the sand
+the eggs of the soft-shelled turtle, which he greedily sucks. We
+cordially recommend the coon as a pet. He becomes very docile,
+and is full of cunning ways, and if the young ones can be traced
+to their hiding-place in some hollow tree, and secured, if not
+_too_ young, we could warrant our readers a great deal of real
+sport and pleasure in rearing the little animals and watching their
+ways.
+
+In cold climates the raccoon lies dormant in the winter, only venturing
+out on occasional mild days; but in the Southern States he is active
+throughout the year, prowling about by day and by night in search
+of his food, inserting his little sharp nose into every corner,
+and feeling with his slender paws between stones for spiders and
+bugs of all kinds. He spies the innocent frog with his head just
+out of the water, and pouncing upon him, he despatches him without
+a moment's warning. There seems to be no limits to his rapacity, for
+he is always eating and always hungry. The print of the raccoon's
+paw in the mud or snow is easily recognized, much resembling the
+impression made by the foot of a babe.
+
+The best season for trapping the coon is late in the fall, winter,
+and early spring, or from and between the months of October and
+April. During this time the pelts are in excellent condition. Early
+in the spring when the snow is disappearing, the coons come out
+of their hiding places to start on their foraging tours; and at
+this time are particularly susceptible to a tempting bait, and
+they may be successfully trapped in the following manner:--
+
+Take a steel trap and set it on the edge of some pool, or stream
+where the coons are known to frequent: let it be an inch
+[Page 174]
+or so under the water, and carefully chained to a clog. The bait
+may consist of a fish, frog, or head of a fowl, scented with Oil
+of Anise, and suspended over the traps about two feet higher, by
+the aid of a sapling secured in the ground. (See title page at
+the head of this section.) The object of this is to induce the
+animal to jump for it, when he will land with his foot in the trap.
+Another method is to construct a V shaped pen set the trap near
+the entrance, and, fastening the bait in the angle, cover the trap
+loosely with leaves, and scent the bait as before with the anise.
+The trap should be at such a distance from the bait that the animal,
+in order to reach it, will be obliged to tread upon the pan, which
+he will be sure to do, his greed overcoming his discretion. Any
+arrangement whereby the animal will be obliged to tread upon the
+trap in order to reach the bait will be successful.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The beaten track of the coons may often be discovered in soft ground,
+and a trap carefully concealed therein will soon secure its victim.
+Another method is to set the trap near the coon tracks, spreading a
+few drops of anise on the pan and covering the whole with leaves.
+The coon, attracted by the scent, will feel around in the leaves for
+[Page 175]
+the bait, and thus "put his foot in it."
+
+In the South they construct a coon trap from a hollow log, either
+having the ends supplied with lids, which fall just like the Rat
+trap page 100 as the animal passes through, or else constructed
+with nooses, similar to the Box-snare, page 56. Box traps of a
+style similar to that described on page 103 are also excellent, and
+a strong twitch-up, of any of the various kinds we have described,
+will be found to work admirably.
+
+Many of the suggestions in trapping the mink, page 190, will be
+found equally, serviceable in regard to the coon.
+
+The skin of this animal should be removed as recommended for the
+fox, and similarly stretched. It may also be skinned by first ripping
+up the belly, and spread on a hoop stretcher. page 275.
+
+
+THE BADGER.
+
+The American Badger is mostly confined to the Northwestern parts
+of the United States, and it is a curious little animal. In size
+its body is slightly smaller than the fox. Its general color is
+grey, approaching to black on the head and legs. There is a white
+streak extending from the tip of the animal's long nose over the
+top of the head and fading off near the shoulders. The cheeks are
+also white, and a broad and definitely marked black line extends
+from the snout back around the eyes ending at the neck. The grey
+of this animal is produced from the mixture of the varied tints
+of its fur, each hair presenting a succession of shades. At the
+root it is of a deep grey; this fades into a tawny yellow, and
+is followed by a black, the hair being finally tipped with white.
+The fur is much used in the manufacture of fine paint brushes, a
+good "Badger blender" being a most useful accessory in the painter's
+art. The badger is slow and clumsy in its actions, except when
+engaged in digging, his capacities in this direction being so great
+as to enable him to sink himself into the ground with marvellous
+rapidity. The nest of the animal is made in the burrow, and the
+young are three or four in number. His diet is as variable and
+extensive as that of the coon, and consists of anything in any
+way eatable. Snails, worms, rats, mice and moles, seem to have
+a particular attraction for him; and he seems to take especial
+delight in unearthing the stores of the wild bees, devouring honey,
+wax and grubs together, and caring as little for the stings of the
+[Page 176]
+angry bees as he would of the bills of so many mosquitoes, the thick
+coating of fur forming a perfect protection against his winged
+antagonists. The badger is very susceptible to human influence, and
+can be effectually tamed with but little trouble. Although his general
+appearance would not indicate it, he is a sly and cunning animal, and
+not easily captured in a trap of any kind. He has been known to set
+at defiance all the traps that were set for him, and to devour
+the baits without suffering for his audacity. He will sometimes
+overturn a trap and spring it from the under side, before attempting
+to remove the bait. Although not quite as crafty as the fox, it is
+necessary to use much of the same caution in trapping the badger,
+as a bare trap seldom wins more than a look of contempt from the
+wary animal.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The usual mode of catching the creature is to set the trap size
+No. 3 at the mouth of its burrow, carefully covering it with loose
+earth and securing it by a chain to a stake. Any of the methods
+used in trapping the fox will also be found to work admirably.
+The dead-fall or garrote will also do good service. Bait with a
+rat, mouse, or with whatever else the animal is especially fond,
+and scent with Oil of Anise or Musk. In early spring, while the
+ground is still hard, badgers are easily captured by flooding their
+burrows. After being satisfied that the animal is in its hole,
+proceed to pour in pailful after pailful of water at the entrance.
+[Page 177]
+He will not long be able to stand this sort of thing, and he may
+be secured as he makes his exit at the opening of the burrow.
+
+The skin should be removed whole, as in the case of the fox, or
+as described for the beaver, and stretched as therein indicated.
+
+
+THE BEAVER.
+
+The Beaver of North America has now a world-wide reputation for
+its wonderful instinct and sagacity. The general appearance of
+this animal is that of a very large muskrat with a broad flattened
+tail, and the habits of both these animals are in many respects
+alike. The beaver is an amphibious creature and social in its habits
+of living, large numbers congregating together and forming little
+villages, and erecting their dome-like huts like little Esquimaux.
+The muskrat has this same propensity, but the habitation of the
+beaver is on a much more extensive scale. These huts or "Beaver
+lodges," are generally made in rivers and brooks; although sometimes
+in lakes or large ponds. They are chiefly composed of branches,
+moss, grass and mud, and are large enough to accommodate a family
+of five or six. The form of the "lodges" is dome-like, and it varies
+considerably in size. The foundation is made on the bottom of the
+river, and the hut is built up like a mound, often twenty feet
+in diameter and projecting several feet above the surface of the
+water. The walls of this structure are often five or six feet thick,
+and the roofs are all finished off with a thick layer of mud laid on
+with marvellous smoothness. These huts form the winter habitations
+of the beavers, and as this compost of mud, grass and branches
+becomes congealed into a solid mass by the severe frosts of our
+northern winter, it can easily be seen that they afford a safe
+shelter against any intruder and particularly the wolverine, which
+is a most deadly enemy to the beaver. So hard does this frozen mass
+become as to defy even the edges of iron tools, and the breaking
+open of the "Beaver houses" is at no time an easy task. Beavers
+work almost entirely in the dark; and a pond which is calm and
+placid in the day time will be found in the night to be full of
+life and motion, and the squealing and splashing in the water will
+bear evidence of their industry. Lest the beavers should not have
+a sufficient depth of water at all seasons, they are in the habit
+of constructing veritable dams to ensure that result. These dams
+display a wonderful amount of reason and skill, and, together with
+the huts, have won for the beaver a reputation
+[Page 178]
+for engineering skill which the creature truly deserves. In constructing
+these ingenious dams the beavers, by the aid of their powerful teeth,
+gnaw down trees sometimes of large size, and after cutting them into
+smaller pieces float them on the water to the spot selected for
+the embankment. In swift streams this embankment is built so as
+to arch against the current, thus securing additional strength,
+and evincing an instinct on the part of the animal which amounts
+almost to reason. In cutting down the trees the beaver gnaws a
+circular cut around the trunk, cutting deepest on the side toward
+the water, thus causing the trunk to fall into the stream. The
+first step in constructing the embankment is to lay the logs down
+cautiously in the required line of the dam, afterwards weighting
+them with heavy stones, which the beavers by their united efforts
+roll upon them. The foundation of the embankment is often ten feet
+in width, and is built up by continued heaping of branches, stones
+and mud, until it forms a barrier of immense strength and resisting
+power. In many cases, through a lapse of years, and through a
+[Page 179]
+consequent accumulation of floating leaves, twigs, and seeds of plants,
+these embankments become thickly covered with vegetation, and, in many
+cases in the Hudson Bay country, have even been known to nurture trees
+of considerable dimensions. The broad flat tail of the animal serves a
+most excellent purpose, in carrying the mud to the dams or huts, and
+in matting and smoothing it into a solidity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The entrances to the various huts are all beneath the water, and
+they all open into one common ditch, which is purposely dug in
+the bed of the river, and is too deep to be entirely frozen. In
+the summer time the huts are vacated, and the beavers make their
+abode in burrows on the banks of the stream, which serve as a secure
+retreat at all times, and particularly in winter when their houses
+are molested. The Indians of the Northwest are aware of this fact,
+and turn it to good account in the capture of the animals.
+
+When the beaver's village is in a small creek, or brook, it is
+first necessary to stake the water across both above and below
+the huts. The next thing is to ascertain the exact spots of the
+burrows in the banks, and when we consider the river is covered
+with ice, this seems a rather difficult problem. But this is where
+the Indian shows his skill. He starts upon the ice, provided with
+an ice chisel secured to a long, stout handle. With this he strikes
+upon the ice, following the edge of the stream. The sound of the
+blow determines to his practiced ear the direct spot opposite the
+opening of the burrows, and at this point a hole a foot in diameter
+is made through the ice. Following the edge of the bank he continues
+his search, and in like manner cuts the holes through the ice until
+all the retreats are discovered. While the expert Indians are thus
+engaged, the "squaws" are occupied in the more laborious work of
+breaking open the houses, and the beavers, alarmed at the invasion of
+their sanctums, make for the banks, and the ready huntsmen stationed
+at the various holes, watch for their victims beneath the openings,
+until a violent motion or discoloration of the water betrays their
+passage beneath. The entrance to the holes in the bank are then
+instantly closed with stakes and the beaver is made prisoner in
+his burrow. When the depth of the burrow will admit, the arm of
+the hunter is introduced, and the animal pulled out, but otherwise
+a long hook lashed to a pole is employed for this purpose. Scores
+of beavers are sometimes taken in this way in a few hours. Spearing
+is also often successfully resorted to, and when the ice is thin
+[Page 180]
+and transparent the beavers may be clearly observed as they come
+to the surface, beneath the ice, for air.
+
+The general color of the animal is reddish brown, this tint being
+imparted principally by the long hairs of the fur. There is an
+inner and softer down of a grey color, which lies next the skin,
+and which is the valuable growth of the fur. The total length of
+the animal is about three feet and a half, the flat, paddle-shaped,
+scale-covered tail being about a foot in length.
+
+The young are brought forth in April or May, from three to seven
+at a litter, and take to the water when a month old. The first
+four years in the beaver's life is spent under the "maternal roof,"
+after which period they shift for themselves. To trap the beaver
+successfully, requires the utmost caution, as the senses of the
+animal are so keen, and he is so sagacious withal, that he will detect
+the recent presence of the trapper from the slightest evidences.
+The traps should be washed clean and soaked in ley, before using,
+and thereafter handled with gloves, as a mere touch of the finger
+will leave a scent which the acute sense of the beaver will easily
+perceive. All footprints should be carefully obliterated by throwing
+water upon them, and some trappers say that the mere act of spitting
+on the ground in the neighborhood of the traps has been known to
+thwart success.
+
+Almost the only bait used in trapping the beaver is the preparation
+called "barkstone" by the trappers, or "castoreum" in commerce.
+This substance is fully described on page 150 under the head of
+"Scent Baits."
+
+To the barkstone the trapper is mostly indebted for his success,
+and the effect of its odor on the beaver is something surprising.
+Our best trappers inform us that these animals will scent this
+odor for a great distance, and will fairly "squeal with delight,"
+not being easy until the savory bait is discovered, which almost
+invariably results in capture.
+
+Taking advantage of this curious propensity, the trapper always
+carries a supply of castoreum in a closed vessel.
+
+There are various ways of trapping the beaver, of which we shall
+present the best. An examination of the river bank will easily
+disclose the feeding place of the beavers, as evinced by the absence
+of the bark on the branches and trunks of trees. At this spot,
+in about four inches of water, set your trap, which should be a
+Newhouse No. 4. Weight the end of the chain with a stone as large
+as your head, and, if possible, rest it on the edge of some rock
+projecting into deep water, having a smaller rope or chain leading
+from the stone to the shore. A small twig, the size of your little
+[Page 181]
+finger, should then be stripped of its bark, and after chewing or
+mashing one end, it should be dipped in the castoreum. Insert this
+stick in the mud, between the jaws of the trap, letting it project
+about six inches above the water. The beaver is soon attracted by the
+odor of the bait, and in reaching for it, his foot is caught in the
+trap. In his fright he will immediately jump for deep water, thus
+dislodging the stone, which will sink him to the bottom, and thus
+drown him. The smaller chain or rope will serve as a guide to the
+trap, and the victim may be drawn to the surface. Another plan is
+to set the trap in about a foot of water, chaining it fast to a stout
+pole securely driven in the mud further out in the stream, and
+near deep water. Bait as before. The trap being thus fastened will
+prevent the efforts of the animal to drag it ashore, where he would
+be certain to amputate his leg and walk off. There is another method,
+which is said to work excellently. The chain is secured to a very
+heavy stone, and sunk in deep water, and the trap set and baited
+near shore, in about a foot of water. This accomplishes the same
+purpose as the pole first described, and is even surer, as the animal
+will sometimes use his teeth in severing the wood, and thereby make
+his escape. In the case of the stone a duplicate rope or chain
+will be required to lift it in case of capture.
+
+The trap may be set at the entrance to the holes in the banks,
+two or three inches under water, implanting the stick with the
+castoreum bait directly over the pan, a few inches above the water.
+If the water should be deep near this spot, it is an excellent plan
+to weight the end of the chain with a large stone with a "leader"
+from it also, as already described. Insert two or three sticks in
+the bank beneath the water, and rest the stone upon them.
+
+When the beaver is caught he will turn a somersault into deep water,
+at the same time dislodging the stone, which will sink him. No sooner
+is a break ascertained in the dam than all the beavers unite in
+fixing it, and this peculiarity of habit may be turned to account in
+trapping them. Make a slight break in the dam, five inches across,
+beneath the water. On the under side of the break, and of course,
+on the inside of the dam, the trap should be set. The beavers will
+soon discover the leak and the capture of at least _one_ is certain.
+The trap may be also set where the beavers are wont to crawl on
+shore, being placed several inches below the water in such a position
+that they will step on it when in the act of ascending the banks.
+Where the weighted stone is not used, the sliding pole page 145
+[Page 182]
+should always be employed, as it is necessary to drown the animal,
+to prevent amputation and escape.
+
+The food of the beaver consists chiefly of the bark of various
+trees, together with aquatic plants. The fur is valuable only in
+the late fall, winter, and early spring.
+
+In skinning the beaver, a slit is made from the under jaw to the
+vent, after which it is easily removed. It should be tacked to a flat
+board, fur side in, or stretched by means of a hoop, as described
+on page 275.
+
+
+THE MUSKRAT.
+
+The muskrat, or musquash, is very much like a beaver on a small
+scale, and is so well-known throughout the United States that a
+detailed description or illustration will hardly be necessary.
+Reduce the size of the beaver to one foot in length, and add a
+long flattened tail, instead of the spatula-shaped appendage of
+this animal, and we will have a pretty good specimen of a muskrat.
+The body has that same thick-set appearance, and the gnawing teeth
+are very large and powerful. Like the beaver, the muskrat builds
+its dome-like huts in ponds or swamps, which it frequents; and
+although not as large as those of the beaver they are constructed
+in the same manner and of the same materials. Muskrats are mostly
+nocturnal in their habits; they are tireless swimmers, and in the
+winter travel great distances beneath the ice; all of which
+peculiarities are like the beaver. Their food is quite variable,
+consisting of grass and roots, oats, corn and other grain, apples
+and nuts, and even tomatoes, turnips, carrots, mussels and clams,
+whenever these can be found.
+
+The muskrat is a native of all of the Eastern, Western, and Middle
+States and also the Southern States, with the exception of Georgia,
+Alabama and Florida. They are also found in Canada and the Arctic
+regions, and in the North-west. They are hunted and captured as
+a means of support to the native tribes of Indians who sell or
+trade the furs to Eastern dealers. The fur somewhat resembles that
+of the mink in texture, although not as fine, and the color varies
+from dark brown above to grey beneath. It is in its best condition
+during the winter, especially in March. The animal possesses a
+musky smell, from which it takes its name. It is said by many that
+the flesh of the animal, when carefully prepared, becomes quite
+palatable food.
+
+Their houses are so nearly like those of the beaver that a
+[Page 183]
+second description is scarcely necessary. They are often five or
+six feet in height, and the entrances are all under water. Dozens
+of these huts may often be seen in ponds and marshes, and sometimes
+they exist in such numbers as to give the appearance of a veritable
+Esquimaux village. These houses are used only in the winter season.
+In general the muskrat lives in burrows, which it excavates in the
+banks of ponds or streams, bringing forth its young, from three
+to nine in number, in the nest, which it forms at the end of the
+tunnel. They are very prolific, producing three litters a year. Like
+the beaver, otter and mink, the muskrat can travel long distances
+under the ice with only one supply of fresh air, and its method
+is certainly very interesting. Before plunging beneath the ice
+the animal fills its lungs with air, and when under the water it
+swims until it can no longer hold its breath. It then rises up
+beneath the ice, empties its lungs, the air remaining in bubbles
+beneath the ice. In a short time this air absorbs sufficient oxygen
+from the water and ice as to be life-sustaining, when the animal
+again inhales it and proceeds on its journey. It is by this means
+that the beaver, muskrat and mink are enabled to travel such great
+distances beneath unbroken ice, and it is certainly a very novel
+and interesting method. Where the ice is thin and transparent these
+animals are sometimes captured through the means of this habit.
+A heavy stroke on the frozen hut will drive its occupants to the
+water, and their course may easily be followed through the ice.
+If one of them is tracked, he will presently be seen to stop at
+the surface of the water for fresh oxygen, as already described.
+The bubbles will soon appear, and if the hunter immediately strikes
+with an axe or heavy stick directly on the spot, the submerged
+animal will be literally driven away from its breath, and will
+of course drown in a very few minutes. A short search will soon
+reveal the dead creature, after which he may be taken out through
+a hole cut in the ice. Otter and mink are sometimes taken in the
+same way. In many localities great numbers of muskrats are also
+captured by spearing, either through the ice or through the walls
+of their houses. In the latter case, two are often taken at once.
+This method is quite uncertain and unreliable, as the walls of
+the hut are often so firmly frozen as to defy the thrust of the
+hardest steel, and a fruitless attempt will drive the inmates from
+their house at once. The spear generally used consists of a single
+shaft of steel about eighteen inches in length and half an inch
+in diameter, barbed at the point, and is feruled to a
+[Page 184]
+solid handle five feet long. In spearing through the hut the south
+side is generally selected, as being more exposed to the heat of
+the sun. Great caution is necessary, as the slightest noise will
+drive out the inmates. The spear should be thrust in a slanting
+direction, a few inches above the surface of the ice. Where many
+houses exist it is well to destroy all but one. Into this the whole
+tribe will centre, and by successive spearing they may all be captured.
+When the spear has been thrust into the house, it must be thus
+left until a hole is cut with a hatchet, through which to remove
+the game. Spearing through the ice is a better method, but for
+general service there is no means of capture more desirable than
+by trapping. The steel trap No. 1 or 2 is the size particularly
+adapted for the muskrat, and may be set in various ways. The most
+common method is to set the trap under two inches of water on the
+projecting logs or stones on the border of the streams where the
+"signs" of the animal indicate its recent presence. The trap should
+of course be secured by a chain, ringed to a sliding pole, page
+145, which will lead the animal into deep water when captured,
+and thus effect its speedy death by drowning. In this case bait is
+not necessary. If their feeding grounds can be discovered, or if
+their tracks indicate any particular spot where they crawl ashore
+at the water's edge, at this point a trap may be set with good
+success. In this instance it is well also to set it under water,
+baiting with a piece of turnip, parsnip, apple, or the like, suspended
+a few inches above the pan of the trap. Late in the fall, when
+collecting their building material, they often form large beds of
+dried grasses and sticks, and a trap set in these beds and covered
+with some loose substance, such as grass, chaff, or the like, will
+often secure the animal. The trap, in this case should be attached
+to a spring-pole, page 145 as the muskrat is a wonderful adept
+at self-amputation, when its escape depends upon it.
+
+The trap is sometimes set in the interior of the house, and may
+be accomplished by first breaking an opening in the wall, near
+the ice, the trap being inserted and set, afterwards covering it
+with the loose grass and moss, which is generally abundant in the
+interior of these huts. When this is done, the chain should be
+secured to a stick on the outside, and the hole repaired. No spring
+or sliding-pole is necessary in this method, as the animal when
+caught will immediately run for the water, and the weight of the
+trap will sink and drown its prisoner.
+
+Scent baits are sometimes used in trapping the muskrat, the
+[Page 185]
+musk taken from the female animal being particularly valued. The
+Oils of Rhodium and Amber, page 151 are also successfully employed
+by many trappers; a few drops of either in the neighborhood of
+the trap, or directly upon it, being sufficient.
+
+Although steel traps are most generally used, there are several
+other devices which are equally if not even _more_ desirable. Chief
+among these is the barrel trap, commonly and successfully employed
+in many parts of New England, where these animals often exist in
+such numbers as to render their destruction a matter of necessity.
+
+The above trap consists merely of an old barrel, sunk to its upper
+edge in the river bank, and about half filled with water. On the
+surface of the water a few light pieces of wood are floated, over
+which the bait, consisting of carrot, sweet apple, or turnip, is
+placed. A trail is then made by dragging a piece of scented meat
+from the barrel in various directions, and a few pieces of the
+bait are also strewn along these trails. The muskrats will thus
+be led to the barrel, and will be certain to jump in after the
+tempting morsels, and their escape is impossible. No less than
+a dozen muskrats have been thus caught in a single barrer in one
+night, and a few of these traps have been known almost to exterminate
+the musquashes in localities where they had previously existed in
+such numbers as to become a pestilence to the neighborhood.
+
+A barrel trap constructed on the principle described on page 131
+is also equally effective, although rather more complicated in
+construction. The Twitch-up is often used, and possesses the advantage
+of a trap and spring-pole combined. Box traps, page 103, are also
+to be recommended.
+
+The skin of the muskrat may be removed in the same manner as hereinafter
+described for the otter, with the exception of the tail. This is
+considered the best method. It may also be taken off flat by ripping
+from the under jaw to the vent, and peeling around the eyes and
+mouth, letting the skin of the legs come off whole, without cutting.
+
+Another common method consists in cutting off the feet, and then
+ripping with a knife from the front of the lower jaw down the neck
+and belly to a point a little beyond the forelegs. The lips, eyes, and
+ears are then carefully skinned, and the hide is stripped backwards
+from the body. In the latter method the bow-stretcher, page 274,
+is used.
+
+
+[Page 186]
+THE OTTER.
+
+The fur of this animal is of such exquisite softness and beauty
+as to be in great demand for commercial purposes, bringing a very
+high price in the fur market.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The otter cannot be said to be a common animal, although it is
+found throughout the United States and Canada, being rather more
+plentiful in the cold northern localities than in the southern
+latitudes. It is an amphibious animal, and can remain for a long
+time beneath the water. In size it is larger than a cat, and it
+possesses a tapering tail some eighteen inches in length. Its fur
+is of a rich brown color, and the hair is of two kinds, the one a
+close, fine, and exquisitely soft down, which lies next the skin,
+and which serves to protect the animal from the extremes of heat and
+cold, and the other composed of long shining coarser hairs, which
+permit the animal to glide easily through the water. In producing
+the beautiful otter furs of fashion these long hairs are plucked
+out, leaving only the softer down next the hide. The food of the
+otter mostly consists of fish, for the pursuit of which he has
+been admirably endowed by nature. His body is lithe and supple,
+and his feet are furnished with a broad web, which connects the
+toes, and is of infinite service in propelling the animal through
+[Page 187]
+the water when in search of his finny prey. His long, broad and flat
+tail serves as a most effectual rudder, and the joints of his powerful
+legs are so flexible as to permit of their being turned in almost any
+direction.
+
+The habitation of the otter is made in the banks of the river which
+it frequents, or sometimes in a hollow log or crevice beneath rocks.
+The animal generally prefers to adopt and occupy a natural hollow
+or deserted excavation, rather than to dig a burrow for itself.
+The nest is composed of dry rushes, grasses and sticks, and the
+young, three or four in number, are produced in early spring.
+
+The _track_ which the otter makes in the mud or snow is easily
+distinguished from that of any other animal, on account of the
+"seal" or impression which is made by a certain ball on the sole of
+the foot. Otter hunting is a favorite sport in England, and indeed
+in the northern parts of our own country. Hounds are used to pursue
+the animal, and on account of the powerfully scented secretion with
+which the creature is furnished by nature, its track is readily
+followed. When attacked, the otter is a fierce and terrible fighter,
+biting and snapping with most deadly energy and never yielding as
+long as life remains in the body. The bite of an angry otter is
+extremely severe, and for this reason we would caution the amateur
+trapper on handling the animal should one be taken alive.
+
+Although so fierce and savage when attacked, the otter is easily
+tamed when taken young, and can be taught to catch fish for the
+service of its master, rather than for the gratification of its
+own palate.
+
+In the winter when the snow is on the ground, the otter navigates
+by sliding, and when on the ice he may often be seen to run a few
+steps and then throw himself on his belly and slide the distance
+of several feet. They are very fond of playing in the snow, and
+make most glorious use of any steep snow-covered bank, sloping
+toward the river. Ascending to the top of such an incline they
+throw themselves on the slippery surface and thus slide swiftly
+into the water. This pastime is often continued for hours, and
+is taken advantage of in trapping the playful creatures. A short
+search will reveal the place where they crawl from the water on
+to the bank, and at this spot, which will generally be shallow,
+a steel trap should be set on the bed of the river, about four
+inches under water. The trap should be secured by a stout chain,
+the latter being ringed to a sliding pole, page 145, which will
+lead the animal when caught into deep
+[Page 188]
+water. If deep water is not near at hand, the spring pole, page
+144, may be used, the object of either being to prevent the animal
+from gnawing off its leg and thus making its escape.
+
+The trap may also be placed at the top or the slide, two or three
+feet back of the slope, a place being hollowed out to receive it
+and the whole covered with snow. To make success more certain a
+log may be laid on each side of the trap, thus forming an avenue
+in which the animal will be sure to run before throwing itself on
+the slope. Care should be taken to handle nothing with the bare
+hands, as the otter is very keen scented and shy. Anoint the trap
+with a few drops of fish oil or otter musk, see page 151. If none
+of these are handy, ordinary musk will answer very well.
+
+The trap may also be set and weighted with a heavy stone and chain,
+as described for trapping the beaver. Another method still is to
+find some log in the stream having one end projecting above water.
+Sprinkle some musk on this projecting end and set the trap on the
+log in three or four inches of water, securing it firmly by a chain,
+also beneath the water.
+
+A rock which projects over the stream may also be utilized in the
+same way as seen in the page title at the opening of this section.
+Smear the musk on the edge which juts into the water, and secure
+the trap by the chain as before. When the animal is caught he will
+fall or jump into the water, and the weight of the trap and chain
+will sink him. In every case it is necessary to obliterate every
+sign of human presence by throwing water over every foot print, and
+over everything with which the naked hands have come in contact.
+Where the traps are thus set in the water it should be done while
+wading or in a boat. In the winter when the ponds and rivers are
+frozen over the otters make holes through the ice at which they
+come up to devour their prey. Where the water is a foot deep beneath
+any of these holes the trap may be set in the bottom, the chain
+being secured to a heavy stone. When the otter endeavors to emerge
+from the hole he will press his foot on the trap and will thus
+be caught. If the water is deep beneath the hole the trap may be
+baited with a small fish attached to the pan, and then carefully
+lowered with its chain and stone to the bottom. For this purpose
+the Newhouse, No. 3, is best adapted, as the otter is in this case
+caught by the head.
+
+The beaten track of the animal may often be discovered in the snow
+in the winter time, and a trap carefully sunk in such a furrow
+and covered so as to resemble its surroundings, will be likely
+to secure the first otter that endeavors to pass over it. A trap
+set at the mouth of the otter's burrow and carefully covered
+[Page 189]
+is also often successful, using the sliding pole, page 145, to lead
+him into deep water.
+
+Every trapper has his pet theories and methods of trapping all
+the different animals, and the otter has its full share. We have
+given several of the _best_ methods; and anyone of them will secure
+the desired result of capture, and all of them have stood the test
+of time and experience.
+
+The skin of the otter should be removed whole, and the operation
+may be performed in the following manner: Slit down the hind legs
+to the vent; cut the skin loose around the vent, and slit up the
+entire length of the tail, freeing it from the bone. With the aid
+of the knife the skin should now be peeled off, drawing it backward
+and carefully cutting around the mouth and eyes before taking it
+from the head.
+
+With the fur thus inside, the skin is ready for the stretcher as
+described on page 273, and the tail should be spread out and tacked
+around the edges.
+
+
+THE MINK.
+
+This animal, as will be seen by our illustration, has a long, slender
+body, something like the weasel, to which scientific family it
+belongs. It inhabits the greater part of North America, and is also
+found abundantly in Northern Europe. The color of its fur varies
+considerably in different individuals, the general tint being a rich,
+dark brown. The chin and throat are light colored, sometimes white,
+and this spot varies considerably in size in different individuals,
+sometimes extending down on the throat to a considerable distance.
+The total length of the animal is from thirteen to sixteen inches,
+its size being variable.
+
+The fur of the mink is excellent in quality, and has for many years
+been one of the "fancy furs" of fashion, a good prime skin often
+bringing from ten to twelve dollars. The introduction of the fur
+seal, however, and the universal demand for this as well as otter
+fur, has somewhat thrown the mink into comparative shade, although
+extra fine skins will still command high prices.
+
+The mink is an aquatic animal, inhabiting small rivers and streams,
+and living somewhat after the manner of the otter. It has a most
+wide range of diet, and will eat almost anything which is at all
+eatable. Fishes, frogs, and muskrats are his especial delight,
+and he will occasionally succeed in pouncing upon a snipe or wild
+duck, which he will greedily devour. Craw
+[Page 190]
+fish, snails, and water insects of all kinds also come within the
+range of his diet, and he sometimes makes a stray visit to some
+neighboring poultry yard to satisfy the craving of his abnormal
+hunger. A meal off from his own offspring often answers the same
+purpose; and a young chicken in the egg he considers the ne plus
+ultra of delicacies. The voracity of this animal is its leading
+characteristic, and is so largely in excess of its cunning or sagacity
+that it will often run headlong into a naked trap. Its sense of
+smell is exceedingly well developed, and through this faculty it
+is often enabled to track its prey with ease and certainty. The
+mink lives in burrows, in steep banks, or between rocks or the
+roots of trees, and the young, five or six in number, are brought
+forth in May.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The chief occupation of the mink consists in perpetual search for
+something to eat, and, when so engaged, he may be seen running
+along the bank of the stream, peering into every nook and corner,
+and literally "leaving no stone unturned" in its eager search.
+Taking advantage of this habit, it becomes an easy matter to trap
+the greedy animal. Set your trap, a Newhouse No. 2, in an inch
+of water near the edge of the stream, and directly in front of
+a steep bank or rock, on which you can place your bait. The bait
+may be a frog, fish, or head of a
+[Page 191]
+bird, suspended about eighteen inches above the water, and should
+be so situated that in order to reach it, the mink will be obliged
+to tread upon the trap. The trap may also be set in the water and
+the bait suspended eighteen inches above it, by the aid of a switch
+planted in the mud near the trap. It is a good plan to scent the
+bait with an equal mixture of sweet oil and peppermint, with a
+little honey added. If there is deep water near, the sliding pole,
+page 145, should be used, and if not, the "spring pole" in every
+case, in order to prevent the captured mink from becoming a prey to
+larger animals, and also to guard against his escape by amputation,
+which he would otherwise most certainly accomplish.
+
+The trap may be set on the land, near the water's edge, baiting
+as just described, and lightly covered with leaves or dirt. Any
+arrangement of the trap whereby the animal is obliged to tread
+upon it in order to secure the bait, will be found effectual.
+
+The trap may be set at the foot of a tree, and the bait fastened
+to the trunk, eighteen inches above it. A pen, such as is described
+on page 144, may be constructed, and the trap and bait arranged as
+there directed. Minks have their regular beaten paths, and often
+visit certain hollow logs in their runways. In these logs they
+leave unmistakable signs of their presence, and a trap set in such
+a place is sure of success.
+
+Some trappers set a number of traps along the stream at intervals
+of several rods, connecting them by a trail, see page 153, the mink
+being thus led directly and almost certainly to his destruction.
+This trail is made by smearing a piece of wood with the "medicine"
+described at page 153, and dragging it on the line of the traps.
+Any mink which crosses this trail will follow it to the first trap,
+when he will, in all probability, be captured. A dead muskrat, crow,
+fish, or a piece of fresh meat dragged along the line answers the
+same purpose. The beaten tracks of the mink may often be discovered,
+and a trap set in such a track and covered with leaves, dirt or the
+like, will often be successful.
+
+Minks may also be easily caught in the dead-fall. Garrote trap
+or a twitch-up, baiting with fish, muskrat, flesh, or the head
+of a bird, of which the animal is especially fond. A liberal use
+of the "medicine" is also desirable.
+
+The fur of the mink is in its best condition in the late autumn,
+winter, and early spring, and the animal should be skinned as described
+for the fox.
+
+
+[Page 192]
+THE PINE MARTEN.
+
+This animal belongs to the tribe of "weasels," and is closely allied
+to the celebrated sable, which it greatly resembles. The pine marten
+is so called because it inhabits the northern climates where pine
+forests abound, and spends much of its life in the trees in search
+of its prey. Its general appearance is truly represented in our
+illustration, its fur being of a rich brown color, with a lighter
+or white patch on the throat. Its total length, including the tail,
+is about twenty-eight or thirty inches, of which the tail represents
+ten inches. It is mostly confined to the forests in the far north,
+and is comparatively rare further south than the latitude of Maine
+and the lakes. The fur of the pine marten is of considerable value,
+particularly if the animal be killed in the winter. A really fine
+skin is but little inferior to the celebrated sable, and is hardly
+distinguishable from it. The hair is long and glossy, and the under
+fur is beautifully soft and very thick. The dark colored skins are
+the most valuable. Although so nearly like the sable, the same
+comparison does not exist in regard to their proportionate market
+values, the marten fur bringing a much lower price.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The marten is a shy and wary animal, withdrawing itself as far
+as possible from the sight of man, and building its habitation in
+the tops of trees, often seizing on the ready nest of some squirrel
+or bird, and adapting it to its purposes.
+
+[Page 193]
+It is a night prowler, and in the dark hours it traverses the trunks
+and branches of the trees in search of its prey. It moves with
+wonderful stealth and activity, and is enabled by its rapid and
+silent approach to steal unnoticed on many an unfortunate bird
+or squirrel, seizing it in its deadly grip before the startled
+creature can think to escape. Coming across a bird's nest, it makes
+sad havoc with the eggs or young, often adding the parent bird
+to his list of victims. Rabbits, partridges, and mice also fall
+into the marten's "bill of fare," and the list is often further
+increased by a visit to a poultry yard, when the animal murders
+and eats all it can and kills the rest for sport. In pouncing upon
+its prey, the marten invariably seizes its victim by the throat,
+often dispatching the luckless creature with a single bite.
+
+The martens generally are said to be very susceptible to human
+influence when taken young, and are very lively in a state of
+domestication. They are among the most graceful of animals, and
+in place of the disagreeable scent which renders many of their
+tribe offensive, this creature possesses an odor which is quite
+agreeable, and for this reason is often called the sweet marten
+in contradistinction to the foul marten or pole cat of Britain,
+which is like unto our skunk in the disgusting stench which it
+exhales.
+
+The dead-fall and Garrote traps are very successful in trapping
+the martin. They should be set several rods apart, in the forest
+or on the banks of streams, and a trail established by dragging
+a dead or roasted crow, entrails of a bird, or fresh meat from
+one trap to another, as described in relation to the mink, page
+190. The twitch-up may also be used, and possesses the additional
+advantage of acting as a spring pole, thus holding the captured
+victim out of reach of larger animals, to which it might otherwise
+become a prey. Any of the varieties described under the title of
+"twitch-up" will answer the purpose, and a little experimenting
+will soon prove which one will be the most successful for this
+particular animal. The bait may consist of a bird's or fowl's head,
+fish, liver, or any fresh meat or entrails.
+
+The common box trap, page 103, or the box snare, page 56, may also
+be used to good purpose, but the former will need to be carefully
+watched lest the enclosed prisoner gnaw his way out and thus escape.
+
+When the steel trap is employed, it should be of the size of Newhouse,
+No. 2-1/2, set on the ground beneath some rock,
+[Page 194]
+and covered with leaves, rotten wood, or earth, and the bait fastened
+or suspended about eighteen inches above it, in such a position
+that the animal will be obliged to step upon the trap in order to
+reach it. An enclosure may be constructed of stones piled together,
+the trap being set and covered in the opening and the bait secured
+at the back. A staked pen, such as is described on page 143, with
+the trap and bait arranged as there directed, also works well.
+Wherever or however the trap is set, the bait should be so placed
+that the animal cannot possibly climb on any neighboring object to
+reach it. The hollow of a tree trunk forms an excellent situation
+for the trap, and the same hollow may also be baited at the back
+and a dead-fall constructed across its opening. The box or barrel
+pit-fall, described on page 127, is said to be very successful in
+trapping the marten, always baiting it with the platform secure
+for a few days before setting for capture. The same methods directed
+for the capture of the mink are also useful in trapping the marten.
+The animal should be skinned as described for the fox.
+
+
+THE FISHER.
+
+This animal is classed among the martens, and is principally to
+be found in Canada and the Northern United States, where it is
+known as the black cat, or woodshock. In our natural histories it
+is described under the name of the pekan.
+
+In general habits, this species resembles the other martens, but its
+body inclines more to the weasel shape. The fur is quite valuable,
+and much resembles the sable. Its color is generally of a greyish
+brown, the grey tint being found chiefly on the back, neck, head
+and shoulders, the legs, tail, and back of the neck being marked
+with dark brown. Like the marten, the fisher prowls by night,
+frequenting swampy places in quest of food.
+
+It builds its habitation in hollow trees, and in burrows, which it
+excavates in the banks of rivers or streams, and its young (generally
+twins) are produced in early spring. The trapping season for the
+fisher commences at about the middle of October, and extends to
+the middle of May, after which time the fur decreases in value.
+
+In trapping the fisher, the same plans may be used as for the marten
+and mink, as these animals much resemble each other in general
+habits. The steel trap arranged in an artificial or
+[Page 195]
+natural enclosure, or otherwise so set as that the animal will be
+obliged to step on it in order to reach the bait, will be successful
+and the use of composition "scent bait," described on page 153 will
+be found to enhance success. In every case where the steel trap
+is used the spring pole, page 144, should always be employed, for
+the reasons already described.
+
+Dead-falls, garrotes, box-traps, twitch-ups, or pit-falls, may
+all be employed to good advantage. Bait with a fish or bird, or
+fresh meat of any kind, and connect the various traps by a trail,
+as described for the mink and marten.
+
+Remove the skin as directed for the fox, and stretch as described
+on page 273.
+
+
+THE SKUNK.
+
+This disgusting animal has won the unenviable but deserving reputation
+of being the most foul-smelling creature on the face of the globe.
+He belongs to the weasel tribe, and all these animals are noted
+for certain odors which they possess, but the skunk is pre-eminent
+in the utter noisomeness of the horrid effluvium which it exhales.
+
+This scent proceeds from a liquid secretion which collects in a
+gland beneath the insertion of the tail, and the animal has the
+power to eject or retain it at will.
+
+It must have been given to the creature as a means of defence,
+for there seems to be no animal that can withstand the influence
+of its fetid stench. Dogs are trained to hunt the animal, but until
+they have learned from experience the right method of attacking the
+fetid game, and have discovered the whereabouts of the animal's
+magazine of ammunition, they are of little use to the hunter, and
+are only too glad to plunge into some neighboring brook, or roll
+in some near earth, in hopes of ridding themselves of the stench
+which almost distracts them. The offensive propensities of the
+skunk are only exercised when the animal is alarmed or frightened.
+There are generally certain "premonitory symptoms" of attack which
+the creature usually exhibits, and it is well to retire from his
+"shooting range" as soon as they are observed.
+
+When the animal is ready to discharge his battery, he suddenly
+elevates his large bushy tail, over his body, and turns his back
+on his enemy. The result of the discharge fills the air for a great
+distance around, and man and beast fly from the neighborhood of
+the indescribable and fetid effluvium, which fairly makes one's
+nostrils _ache_.
+
+[Page 196]
+A single drop of this disgusting secretion on the clothes is enough
+to scent the whole garment, and it is almost impossible to rid
+the tainted fabric from the odor.
+
+It is extremely acrid in quality, and if a very small quantity
+fall upon the eyes, it is very apt to produce permanent blindness.
+
+Dogs, in their first experiences with the skunk, are frequently
+thus blinded, and there are well authenticated instances of human
+beings who have been deprived of their sight through their close
+proximity to an infuriated skunk.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The writer, in his extreme youth, learned, through dear experience,
+the putrid qualities of this noisome quadruped. It was on one bright
+Sunday, in New England, and he was out in his Sunday clothing,
+gathering wild strawberries. He suddenly discovered a pretty little
+playful animal with bushy tail, romping in the grass near him.
+The creature was seemingly gentle, and showed no inclination to
+run away, and the pet-loving nature of the writer prompted an
+irresistible desire to capture so pretty a creature. Encouraged
+by its gentle manner, he eagerly ran towards the tempting prize,
+and grasping it by the bushy tail, which the animal had raised
+perpendicularly, as if for a handle, the pretty creature was locked
+[Page 197]
+in the affectionate embrace of its youthful admirer. But alas! he
+soon repented his rashness, and the treacherous "pet" was quickly
+flung away leaving its victim in such a foul state of overwhelming
+astonishment as can be more easily imagined than described.
+
+Every article of clothing worn on that eventful Sunday had to be
+buried, and it took weeks of Sundays before the odor could be thoroughly
+eradicated from the hair and skin of the individual who wore those
+Sunday garments. After this adventure, the youth became more cautious
+with respect to pretty little playful animals, with black and white
+fur and bushy tails.
+
+There is hardly a farmer in the country but what has had some amusing
+or serious experience with the skunk, and almost every trapper
+has, at one time or another, served as a target for his shooting
+propensities. Natural histories are replete with anecdotes of which
+this animal is the mephitic hero, and volumes might be filled to
+the glory of his strong-smelling qualities.
+
+Perhaps it is through the prejudice of the writer that he cannot
+enthusiastically recommend the skunk as a domestic pet; but it
+is nevertheless asserted, on good authority, that these animals,
+when reared from the young, become very interesting and playful
+in the household, and completely shut down on their objectionable
+faculties.
+
+Our illustration gives a very good idea of the animal, and it is
+so unlike any other creature that a further description will not
+be necessary. The prevailing colors are white and black; but these
+vary much in proportion, the animal sometimes being almost totally
+white, or altogether black. The fur is long, and comparatively coarse,
+being intermixed with long, glossy hairs, and is most valuable in
+the black animal. The body of the creature is about a foot and a
+half in length, exclusive of the tail, which adds about fourteen
+inches more.
+
+The skunk is generally nocturnal in its habits, secreting itself
+during the day in hollow trees, or crevices in rocks, or wood-piles.
+At night it ventures forth in quest of its food, which consists
+chiefly of grasshoppers, worms and other insects, wild fruit and
+such small animals in the shape of frogs, mice and birds as it can
+capture. The poultry yard often offers an irresistible temptation,
+and both fowls and eggs often serve to appease his appetite.
+
+The skunk is common throughout the greater part of North America,
+and in many localities the numbers increase very
+[Page 198]
+rapidly unless checked. The young are brought forth in burrows
+or holes in rocks during April or May, and are from six to nine
+in number.
+
+"Skunk fur" does not sound well when thought of in connection with
+a set of fashionable furs; and for this reason the pelt of this
+animal is dignified by the name of Alaska sable by all dealers in
+the article. When known by this fancy title it suddenly becomes a
+very popular addition to fashion's winter wardrobe, and is one of
+the leading furs which are exported to meet the demand of foreign
+countries. Foul as the animal is, it seldom soils its own fur with
+its offensive fluid; and when carefully skinned the fur is as saleable
+as that of any other animal.
+
+The Skunk is trapped in a variety of ways; and as the animal is
+not cunning, no great skill is required. The steel trap is most
+commonly used, as other wooden varieties, box traps or dead-falls,
+for instance, are apt to absorb and retain the stench of the animal.
+In using the steel trap the size No. 2 should be taken. It may be
+set at the entrance to their burrows or in their feeding grounds.
+It should be covered with loose earth or chaff, or some other light
+substance, and baited with small bits of meat, dead mice, or eggs
+placed around it. The enclosure illustrated on page 143 also answers
+well, and in all cases the spring pole, page 144, should be used.
+The dead-fall, page 107, is often employed, and the twitch-up, page
+43, is a particularly effective contrivance for their capture, often
+preventing the evil consequences of the odor by causing instant
+dislocation of the neck, and this without injuring the fur. A stroke
+upon the backbone near the tail, by producing paralysis of the
+parts, also prevents the animal from using his offensive powers,
+and a dead-fall so constructed as to fall upon the animal at this
+part will accomplish the same effect. To manage this it is only
+necessary to place the bait far back in the enclosure, so that
+the skunk on reaching it will bring the rear portion of his body
+beneath the suspended log. The scent of the skunk is as we have
+said, almost ineradicable, but we would recommend chloride of lime
+as the most effectual antidote.
+
+It is also said by some trappers that the odor may be dissipated
+by packing the garment in fresh hemlock boughs, letting it thus
+remain for a couple of days. This is certainly a valuable hint
+if true, and is well worth remembering.
+
+For skinning the skunk, see Beaver, Otter and Fox.
+
+
+[Page 199]
+THE WOLVERINE.
+
+This, one of the most ferocious as well as detestable of American
+animals, is principally found in British America and the upper
+portion of the United States. It has won a world wide reputation
+for its fierceness and voracity, and on this account is popularly
+known as the Glutton. It is not confined to America, but is also
+found in Siberia and Northern Europe.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The general appearance of this animal, ugly in disposition as in
+appearance, is truthfully given in our illustration. It is not
+unlike a small bear in looks, and was formerly classed among that
+genus.
+
+The general color of the wolverine is dark brown. The muzzle, as
+far back as the eye-brows, is black, and the immense paws partake
+of the same hue. The claws of the animal are
+[Page 200]
+long and almost white, forming a singular contrast to the jetty fur
+of the feet. So large are the feet of this animal, and so powerful
+the claws, that a mere look at them will tell the story of their
+death dealing qualities, a single stroke from one of them often
+being sufficient for a mortal wound. Although the wolverine is
+not as large as the bear, its foot prints in the snow are often
+mistaken for those of that creature, being nearly of the same size.
+
+The glutton feeds largely on the smaller quadrupeds, and is a most
+determined foe to the beaver during the summer months; the ice-hardened
+walls of their houses serving as a perfect protection against his
+attacks in the winter time.
+
+To the trapper of the north the wolverine is a most detested enemy,
+following the rounds of the traps and either detaching the baits
+or tearing away the dead animals which have fallen a prey to them.
+The trapper's entire circuit will be thus followed in a single
+night, and where the veritable "glutton" does not care to devour
+its victim it will satisfy its ferocious instinct by scratching
+it in pieces, leaving the mutilated remains to tell the story of
+its nocturnal visit.
+
+The wolverine is a dangerous foe to many animals larger than itself,
+and by the professional hunter it is looked upon as an ugly and
+dangerous customer.
+
+There are several methods of trapping this horrid creature, and
+in many localities successful trapping of other animals will be
+impossible without first ridding the neighborhood of the wolverines.
+Dead-falls of large size will be found to work successfully, baiting
+with the body of some small animal, such as a rat or squirrel.
+A piece of cat, beaver or muskrat flesh is also excellent, and
+by slightly scenting with castoreum success will be made sure.
+Several of these traps may be set at intervals, and a trail made
+by dragging a piece of smoked beaver meat between them. The gun
+trap, as described on page 20, will also do good service in
+exterminating this useless and troublesome animal.
+
+Steel traps of size No. 3 or 4 are commonly used to good purpose.
+They may be arranged in any of the various methods already described,
+the plan of the enclosure, page 143, being particularly desirable. In
+all cases the trap should be covered with leaves, moss or the like,
+and the bait slightly scented with castoreum. Like all voracious
+animals, the perpetual greed of the wolverine completely overbalances
+its caution, and thus renders its capture an easy task.
+
+[Page 201]
+The home of the animal is generally in a crevice or cave between
+rocks, and its young, two or three in number, are brought forth
+in May.
+
+In removing the skin, it may be ripped up the belly, or taken off
+whole, as described for the fox.
+
+
+THE OPOSSUM.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The opossum is found more or less throughout nearly all the United
+States. In size it equals a large cat, the tail being about fifteen
+inches long, very flexible and covered with scales. The general
+color of the fur is grayish-white, slightly tinged with yellow,
+[Page 202]
+and the legs are of a brownish hue, which color also surrounds the
+eyes to some extent.
+
+The fur is comparatively soft and wooly, and thickly sprinkled with
+long hairs, white at the base and brown at the tips.
+
+The nature and habits of the animal are very interesting. Its nest
+is made in some sheltered hollow in an old fallen or live tree,
+or beneath overhanging roots or rocks, and composed of moss and
+dead leaves. The young are produced in several litters during the
+year, and when born are transferred by the mother to a pouch situated
+in the lower front portion of her body. Here they remain and are
+nourished by the parent until they are five weeks old, at which
+time they emerge and travel with their mother, and their little
+ring tails do them good service in holding fast to their guardian.
+It is an amusing sight to see a family of young 'possums thus linked
+together, and so "attached to each other."
+
+The opossum is a voracious and destructive animal, prowling about
+during the hours of darkness and prying into every nook and corner in
+hope of finding something that may satisfy the cravings of imperious
+hunger. Rats, mice, nuts, berries, birds, insects and eggs are all
+devoured by this animal; and when not content with these he does
+not hesitate to insinuate himself into the poultry yard, and make
+a meal on the fowls and young chickens. His fondness for fruit and
+Indian corn often leads him to commit great havoc among plantations
+and fruit trees, and his appetite for the fruit of the persimmon tree
+is proverbial. While feeding on these fruits he frequently hangs
+by his tail, as seen in our illustration, gathering the persimmons
+with his fore paws and eating them while thus suspended. He is a
+most agile climber, and his tenacity and terminal resources in
+this direction are admirably depicted in that well known Methodist
+sermon, as follows: "An' you may shake one foot loose, but 'tothers
+thar; an' you may shake _all_ his feet loose, but he laps his tail
+around the lim' an' he clings forever."
+
+He is an adept at feigning death, "playing 'possum" so skilfully
+as frequently to deceive an expert.
+
+"'Possums" are hunted in the Southern States much after the manner
+of coons; and to the negroes a "'possum hunt" signifies most unbounded
+sport."
+
+Though cunning in many ways, the opossum is singularly simple in
+others. There is hardly any animal more easily captured; for it
+will walk into the clumsiest of traps, and permit itself to be
+ensnared by a device at which an American rat would look with utter
+contempt.
+
+[Page 203]
+The dead-fall, garrote, or stout snare may all be employed, being
+baited with any of the substances already described. The steel
+trap 2-1/1 or 3 is most commonly used, being set in the haunts of
+the animal, and slightly scented with musk.
+
+See Fox and Beaver, for directions for skinning, stretching, etc.,
+etc.
+
+
+THE RABBIT.
+
+The rabbit or "cotton tail," as he is familiarly termed, is too
+well-known to need any description here. From Maine to Texas our
+woods abound with these fleet-footed little creatures, of which
+there are several American species. They are the swiftest of all
+American quadrupeds, and have been known to clear over twenty feet
+in a single leap. They are all natural burrowers, although they
+often forego the trouble of excavating a home when one can be found
+already made, and which can be easily modified or adapted to their
+purposes. The common rabbit of New England often makes its home or
+"form," beneath a pile of brush or logs, or in crevices in rocks.
+Here it brings forth its young, of which there are often three
+or four litters a year. The creature becomes a parent at a very
+early age, and by the time that a rabbit is a year old it may have
+attained the dignity of a grand parent.
+
+The food of the rabbit consists of grasses, bark, leaves, bulbs,
+young twigs, buds, berries and the like, and of cultivated vegetables
+of all kinds, when opportunity favors. When surprised in the woods
+it manifests its alarm by violently striking the ground with its
+feet, causing the peculiar sound so often noticed at their first
+jump. The animal is fond of pursuing a beaten path in the woods,
+and is often snared at such places. Its enemies, beside man, are
+the lynx, and other carnivorous animals, hawks, owls, and even
+the domestic cat.
+
+The rabbit is a favorite game with all amateur sportsmen, and the
+devices used in its capture are multitudinous. It is by no means
+a difficult animal to trap, and a glance through the second and
+fourth sections of our book, will reveal many ingenious snares
+and other contrivances, commonly and successfully used.
+
+The Box trap, page 103, is perhaps the most universal example of
+rabbit trap, but the Self-setting trap, page 110, and Double-ender,
+page 109, are also equally effective where the animal is desired
+to be taken alive. If this is not an object, the snare is to be
+recommended as simple in construction and sure in its result.
+
+[Page 204]
+The above constitute the only devices commonly used for the capture
+of the rabbit, the steel trap being dispensed with. On page 109
+will be found additional remarks concerning the rabbit, and many
+hints no baiting, etc., are also given under the heads of the various
+traps above alluded to.
+
+The skin of the rabbit is very thin and tender, and should be carefully
+removed, either as described for the fox, or in the ordinary method,
+by incision up the belly. Full directions for curing and tanning
+the skins will be found under its proper head in a later portion
+of this work.
+
+
+THE WOOD-CHUCK.
+
+This animal also called the marmot, is so well-known to most of
+our readers, that a detailed description will not be necessary,
+suffice it to say that the general color is brownish grey above,
+changing to reddish brown on the under parts. The head, tail and
+feet partaking of a darker color. The length of the animal is about
+a foot and a-half, exclusive of the tail, which is four inches
+long.
+
+The woodchuck is a clumsy looking animal, and anything but active
+in its movements. It is very unintelligent, and is always too ready
+to use its powerful teeth on the hand of any one who may attempt
+to handle it. It is naturally a timid animal, but when cornered
+or brought to bay, it fights most desperately.
+
+The woodchuck is an expert excavator, and where the animals exist
+in large numbers great damage is done by their united burrowing. They
+generally remain in their burrows during the day, only venturing out
+casually to see what is going on, and keeping near their entrance.
+Towards evening they start out to feed, devouring certain grasses
+and weeds, and also pumpkins and green corn with avidity, ever
+and anon sitting upright on their haunches, to see if the coast
+is clear. In case they are surprised in their meal, they hurry
+home in a pell-mell sort of a way, giving as much the appearance
+of rolling as running, but, nevertheless, getting over the ground
+with fair speed for such an unwieldy animal. The skin is loose and
+very tough, and possesses no commercial value, being principally
+used for whiplashes. Their burrows are generally on the slope of
+a hill, and often at the foot of a rock or tree. These tunnels
+vary from ten to thirty feet in length, sloping downward from the
+opening, afterward taking an upward turn and terminating in a roomy
+chamber, in which the animal sleeps in
+[Page 205]
+winter and where the young from three to eight in number are brought
+forth. The woodchuck is found throughout nearly the whole of the
+United States, and is especially abundant in New England, where
+it is a decided nuisance. It is found as far south as Tennessee,
+and westward to the Rocky Mountains. The flesh of the woodchuck
+is by many much esteemed as food, particularly in the Fall. When
+used for this purpose, the animal should be skinned and carefully
+cleaned immediately after death, taking especial care to remove the
+masses of fat which lie inside of the legs, as these, if allowed
+to remain, are sure to taint the flesh in cooking.
+
+The animals are easily caught by setting the traps at the entrance
+of their burrows, and carefully covering them with loose earth,
+no bait being required. They may also be captured by the aid of
+a spring-pole, with noose attached, the pole being bent down and
+caught under a notched stick, and the noose being arranged at the
+opening of the burrow, see page 43, the Woodchuck in passing in
+or out will become entangled in the noose, and in his efforts to
+escape the pole will be loosened from the peg, thus lifting the
+animal in mid-air. Woodchucks are also sometimes drowned out of
+their holes, and the turtle is often put to good use for the purpose
+of smoking the animals from their subterranean dwellings. A ball of
+wicking saturated with kerosene is attached by a wire to the tail
+of the reptile. When the ball is ignited the creature is introduced
+into the entrance of the hole, and of course in fleeing from its
+fiery pursuer it traverses the full length of the burrow, and as
+another matter of course drives out its other occupants, which
+are shot or captured as they emerge.
+
+The woodchunk's skin is generally taken off as described for the
+muskrat, and stretched accordingly.
+
+
+THE GOPHER.
+
+This remarkable little animal somewhat resembles the Mole in its
+general appearance and habits. It is also commonly known as the
+Canada Pouched Rat, and is principally found west of the Mississippi
+and northward. It is a burrowing animal, and like the Mole drives
+its subterranean tunnels in all directions, throwing up little
+hillocks at regular intervals of from five to twenty feet. Its
+body is thick set and clumsy and about ten inches long, and its
+Mole-like claws are especially adapted for digging. Its food consists
+of roots and vegetables, and its
+[Page 206]
+long and projecting incisors are powerful agents in cutting the
+roots which cross its path in making its burrow. The most striking
+characteristic of the animal, and that from which it takes its
+name, consists in the large cheek pouches which hang from each
+side of the mouth and extend back to to shoulders. They are used as
+receptacles of food which the animal hurriedly gathers when above
+ground, afterward returning to its burrow to enjoy its feast at its
+leisure. It was formerly very commonly and erroneously believed
+that the Gopher used its pouches in conveying the earth from its
+burrow, and this is generally supposed at the present day, but
+it is now known that the animal uses these pockets only for the
+conveyance of its food.
+
+The color of the fur is reddish-brown on the upper parts, fading
+to ashy-brown on the abdomen, and the feet are white.
+
+In making its tunnels, the dirt is brought to the surface, thus
+making the little mounds after the manner of the mole. After having
+dug its tunnel for several feet the distance becomes so great as
+to render this process impossible, and the old hole is carefully
+stopped up and a new one made at the newly excavated end of the
+tunnel, the animal continuing on in its labors and dumping from
+the fresh orifice. These mounds of earth occur at intervals on
+the surface of the ground, and although no hole can be discovered
+beneath them, they nevertheless serve to indicate the track of
+the burrow, which lies several inches beneath.
+
+The Gopher is a great pest to western cultivators, and by its root
+feeding and undermining propensities does extensive injury to crops
+generally. They may be successfully trapped in the following manner:
+Strike a line between the two most recent earth mounds, and midway
+between them remove a piece of the sod. By the aid of a trowel
+or a sharp stick the burrow may now be reached. Insert your hand
+in the tunnel and enlarge the interior sufficiently to allow the
+introduction of No. (0) steel trap. Set the trap flatly in the
+bottom of the burrow, and then laying a piece of shingle or a few
+sticks across the excavation replace the sod. Several traps may
+be thus set in the burrows at considerable distances apart, and a
+number of the animals thus taken. The traps are sometimes inserted
+in the burrows from the hillocks, by first finding the hole and
+then enlarging it by inserting the arm and digging with the hand
+beneath. The former method, however, is preferable.
+
+The skin of the Gopher may be pulled off the body either by cutting
+up the hind less, as described in reference to the Fox,
+[Page 207]
+or by making the incision from the lower jaw down the neck, as decided
+for the muskrat, a simple board stretcher being used.
+
+
+THE MOLE.
+
+Of all the mammalia the Mole is entitled to take the first place
+in the list of burrowers. This extraordinary creature does not
+merely dig tunnels in the ground and sit at the end of them, as is
+the case with many animals, but it forms a complicated subterranean
+dwelling place with chambers, passages and other arrangements of
+wonderful completeness. It has regular roads leading to its feeding
+grounds; establishes a system of communication as elaborate as
+that of a modern railway, or, to be more correct, as that of the
+subterranean network of the sewers of a city. It is an animal of
+varied accomplishments. It can run tolerably fast, it can fight
+like a bull-dog, it can capture prey under or above ground, it can
+swim fearlessly, and it can sink wells for the purpose of quenching
+its thirst. Take the mole out of its proper sphere, and it is awkward
+and clumsy as the sloth when placed on level ground, or the seal
+when brought ashore. Replace it in the familiar earth and it becomes
+a different being, full of life and energy, and actuated by a fiery
+activity which seems quite inconsistent with its dull aspect and
+seemingly inert form.
+
+We all know that the mole burrows under the ground, raising at
+intervals the little hillocks or "mole hills" with which we are
+so familiar; but most of us little know the extent or variety of
+its tunnels, or that the animal works on a regular system and does
+not burrow here and there at random. How it manages to form its
+burrows in such admirably straight lines, is not an easy problem,
+because it is always done in black darkness, and we know of nothing
+which can act as a guide to the animal. As for ourselves and other
+eye-possessing creatures, the feat of walking in a straight line
+with closed eyelids is almost an impossibility, and every swimmer
+knows the difficulty of keeping a straight course under water,
+even with the use of his eyes.
+
+The ordinary mole hills, so plentiful in our fields, present nothing
+particularly worthy of notice. They are merely the shafts through
+which the quadruped miner ejects the material which it has scooped
+out, as it drives its many tunnels through the soil, and if they
+be carefully opened after the rain has consolidated the heap of
+loose material, nothing more will be discovered than a simple hole
+leading into the tunnel. But let us
+[Page 208]
+strike into one of the large tunnels, as any mole catcher will
+teach us, and follow it up to the real abode of the animal. The
+hill under which this domicile is hidden, is of considerable size,
+but is not very conspicuous, being always placed under the shelter of
+a tree, shrub, or a suitable bank, and would scarcely be discovered
+but by a practiced eye. The subterranean abode within the hillock
+is so remarkable that it involuntarily reminds the observer of the
+well-known "maze," which has puzzled the earliest years of youth
+throughout many generations. The central apartment, or "keep,"
+if we so term it, is a nearly spherical chamber, the roof of which
+is almost on a level with the earth around the hill, and therefore
+situated at a considerable depth from the apex of the heap. Around
+this keep are driven two circular passages or galleries, one just
+level with the ceiling and the other at some height above. Five
+short descending passages connect the galleries with each other,
+but the only entrance into the keep is from the upper gallery,
+out of which three passages lead into the ceiling of the keep. It
+will be seen therefore that when the mole enters the house from
+one of its tunnels, it has first to get into the lower gallery
+to ascend thence into the upper gallery, and so descend into the
+central chamber. There is, however, another entrance into the keep
+from below. A passage dips downward from the centre of the chamber,
+and then, taking a curve upwards, opens into one of the larger burrows
+or high roads, as they may be fitly termed. It is a noteworthy
+fact that the high roads, of which there are several radiating in
+different directions, never open into the gallery opposite one
+of the entrances into the upper gallery. The mole therefore is
+obliged to go to the right or left as soon as it enters the domicile
+before it can find a passage to the upper gallery. By the continual
+pressure of the moles upon the walls of the passages and roof of
+the central chamber, they become quite smooth, hard, and polished,
+so that the earth will not fall in, even after the severest storm.
+
+The use of so complicated a series of cells and passages is extremely
+doubtful, and our total ignorance of the subject affords another
+reason why the habits of this wonderful animal should be better
+studied.
+
+About the middle of June the moles begin to fall in love, and are
+as furious in their attachments as in all other phases of their
+nature. At that time two male moles cannot meet without mutual
+jealousy, and they straightway begin to fight, scratching, tearing,
+and biting with such insane fury that they seem unconscious
+[Page 209]
+of anything except the heat of battle. Indeed the whole life of
+the mole is one of fury, and he eats like a starving tiger, tearing
+and rending his prey with claws and teeth, and crunching audibly
+the body of the worm between the sharp points. Magnify the mole
+to the size of the lion and you will have a beast more terrible
+than the world has yet seen. Though nearly blind, and therefore
+incapable of following its prey by sight, it would be active beyond
+conception, springing this way and that way as it goes along, leaping
+with lightness and quickness upon any animal which it meets, rending
+it in pieces in a moment, thrusting its blood-thirsty snout into
+the body of its victim, eating the still warm and bleeding flesh,
+and instantly searching for fresh prey. Such a creature would,
+without the least hesitation, devour a serpent twenty feet in length,
+and so terrible would be its voracity that it would eat twenty or
+thirty of such snakes in a day as easily as it devours the same
+number of worms. With one grasp of its teeth and one stroke of
+its claws, it could tear an ox asunder; and if it should happen
+to enter a fold of sheep or enclosure of cattle, it would kill
+them all for the mere lust of slaughter. Let, then, two of such
+animals meet in combat, and how terrific would be the battle! Fear
+is a feeling of which the mole seems to be utterly unconscious,
+and, when fighting with one of its own species, he gives his whole
+energies to the destruction of his opponent without seeming to heed
+the injuries inflicted upon himself. From the foregoing sketch
+the reader will be able to estimate the extraordinary energies of
+this animal, as well as the wonderful instincts with which it is
+endowed.
+
+The fur of the mole is noted for its clean, velvety aspect; and
+that an animal should be able to pass unsoiled through earth of
+all textures is a really remarkable phenomenon. It is partly to
+be explained by the character of the hair, and partly by that of
+the skin. The hair of the mole is peculiar on account of its want
+of "set." The tops of the hairs do not point in any particular
+direction, but may be pressed equally forward or backward or to
+either side. The microscope reveals the cause of this peculiarity.
+The hair is extremely fine at its exit from the skin, and gradually
+increases in thickness until it reaches its full width when it
+again diminishes. This alternation occurs several times in each
+hair, and gives the peculiar velvet-like texture with which we
+are all so familiar. There is scarcely any coloring matter in the
+slender portion of the hair, and the beautiful changeable coppery
+[Page 210]
+hues of the fur is owing to this structure. Another reason for the
+cleanliness of the fur is the strong, though membranous muscle beneath
+the skin. While the mole is engaged in travelling, particularly in
+loose earth, the soil for a time clings to the fur; but at tolerably
+regular intervals the creature gives the skin a sharp and powerful
+shake, which throws off at once the whole of the mould that has
+collected upon the fur. Some amount of dust still remains, for,
+however clean the fur of a mole may seem to be, if the creature
+be placed for an hour in water, a considerable quantity of earth
+will be dissolved away and fall to the bottom of the vessel. The
+improvement in the fur after being well washed with soft tepid
+water and soap, is almost incredible. Many persons have been struck
+with such admiration for the fur of the mole, that they have been
+desirous of having a number of the skins collected and made into a
+waist-coat. This certainly can be done, but the garment thus made
+is so very hot that it can only be worn in winter. Such garments
+are very expensive, and owing to the tender quality of the skin,
+possess but little lasting powers. There is also a wonderfully
+strong smell about the mole; so strong, indeed, that dogs will
+sometimes point at moles instead of game, to the great disgust
+of their masters. This odor adheres obstinately to the skin, and
+even in furs which have been dried for more than ten years, this
+peculiar savor has been noticed.
+
+We have given much space to the mole, not particularly on account
+of its particular usefulness to the trapper, but because of its
+many claims to our notice. If the creature were a rare and costly
+inhabitant of some distant land, how deep would be the interest
+which it would incite. But because it is a creature of our country,
+and to be found in every field, there are but few who care to examine
+a creature so common, or who experience any feelings save those
+of disgust when they see a mole making its way over the ground
+in search of a soft spot in which to burrow.
+
+In many localities this interesting animal exists in such numbers
+as to become a positive nuisance, and the invention of a trap which
+would effectually curtail their depredations has been a problem
+to many a vexed and puzzled farmer.
+
+Mole traps of various kinds have found their way into our agricultural
+papers, but none has proved more effectual than the one we describe
+on page 119. An arrangement of the _figure four_, page 107, is
+also sometimes employed with good success. In this case the bait
+stick crosses the upright stick close to the ground, and rests over
+[Page 211]
+the burrow of the mole, the earth being previously pressed down to
+the surrounding level. The stone should be narrow and very heavy, and
+of course no bait is required.
+
+The pieces should be set carefully, and so adjusted that the lifting
+of the soil beneath the stick as the mole forces its way through
+the compressed earth will dislodge the bait stick and let down
+the stone with its crushing weight.
+
+Another method consists in embedding a deep flower pot in one of
+the main tunnels of the animal, and carefully replacing the soil
+above. The mole in traversing his burrow thus falls into the pit
+and is effectually captured. This is a very ingenious mode of taking
+the animal, and rewarded its inventor with seven moles on the first
+night of trial.
+
+There are a number of other devices said to work excellently, but
+the above we believe to be the most effectual of all.
+
+There are several species of American moles, the star-nosed variety
+being familiar to most of us. The most common moles are the shrew
+moles, with pointed noses. The silver mole is a large species, of
+a changeable silvery color, found on the Western prairies. The
+Oregon mole is nearly black, with purplish or brownish reflections.
+
+The most beautiful of all the moles is found at the Cape of Good
+Hope. It is of about the size of the ordinary American species, and
+its soft fur glistens with brilliant green and golden reflections.
+The fur of this species is probably the most wonderful and beautiful
+in the whole animal kingdom.
+
+
+SQUIRRELS.
+
+There are many species of squirrels found in the United States,
+but their fur is of little value, and of trifling importance in
+the fur trade; the squirrel fur of our markets being that of a
+small grey European variety. Squirrels, as a class, possess much
+the same peculiarities and habits. Their claws are particularly
+adapted for life among the trees; their tails are long and bushy,
+covering over the backs of the animals when in a sitting posture.
+They are all lithe and quick of movement, and their senses of sight
+and hearing are especially keen. They are constantly on the alert,
+and are full of artifice when pursued. Their food consists chiefly
+of nuts, fruits, and grain, but when pushed by hunger, there is
+no telling what they will not eat. They generally provide for the
+[Page 212]
+winter months by laying up a store of the foregoing provisions,
+either in holes in trees or interstices in the bark, or in cavities
+under ground. The shag-bark hickory offers an especial inducement to
+these provident creatures in the numerous crevices and cracks
+throughout the bark. It is not an uncommon thing to find whole
+handfuls of nuts carefully packed away in one of these cracks, and
+a sharp stroke with an ax in the trunk of one of these trees will
+often dislodge numbers of the nuts. The writer has many a time gone
+"nutting" in this way in the middle of winter with good success. The
+nests of squirrels are generally built in trees, either in a crotch
+between the branches or in some deserted woodpecker's hole. Some
+species live in burrows in the ground, and those individuals who
+are lucky enough to be in the neighborhood of a barn often make their
+abode therein, taking their regular three meals a day from the granary.
+In many localities these animals thus become a perfect pest to the
+farmers, and their destruction becomes a matter of urgent necessity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Squirrels, although resembling each other much as regards
+[Page 213]
+their general habits, differ considerably in the size and color
+of the different species.
+
+The principal varieties found on our continent are:--
+
+The large grey squirrel, which is common in the Eastern and Middle
+States, and which is about two feet in length, including the tail.
+The common red squirrel, or chicaree, smaller than the foregoing,
+and found more or less all through the United States. The black
+squirrel, which is about the size of the grey, and found in the
+north-eastern part of the United States, near the great lakes. In
+the Southern States there is a variety known as the fox squirrel,
+about the size of the red squirrel, and quite variable in color.
+The Middle States furnishes a species called the cat squirrel,
+rather smaller than the preceding. Its tail is very broad, and its
+color varies from very light to very dark grey.
+
+The ground squirrel, or chipmuck, with its prettily striped sides,
+is common to most of our readers, its general color being red and
+the stripes being black and white.
+
+Another burrowing species, known as the Oregon or downy squirrel,
+is found in the Territory from which it takes its name, and also
+northward in British America. In size it resembles the chipmuck,
+and its color is light red above, pure white beneath, and silver
+grey at the sides.
+
+The beautiful silky variety, known as the flying squirrel, with
+its grey chinchilla-like fur and loose skin, is found throughout
+the United States east of the Mississippi.
+
+Louisiana and Texas furnish the golden-bellied squirrel, which is
+about twenty inches in length, with tail golden yellow beneath,
+and golden grey above. The sooty squirrel is also found in this
+locality, being about the same size as the last mentioned, and
+black above and brownish red beneath.
+
+There are other varieties in California known as the woolly,
+soft-haired, and weasel squirrels; and in the Western States we
+find the large red-tailed squirrels, which are about the size of
+the large grey variety of the Eastern and Middle States.
+
+Squirrels, as a tribe, are much sought for as pets, and most of
+the species are easily tamed.
+
+Box traps of various kinds are used in taking them alive. The varieties
+on pages 103, 106 and 110 are especially adapted for this purpose,
+and should be set either in the trees or on the ground, and baited
+with an apple, a portion of an ear of corn, or of whatever the
+animal is particularly fond.
+
+When the animals exist in such numbers as to become a destructive
+[Page 214]
+nuisance to the farm, the small-sized steel trap, No. 0, arranged
+with bait hung above it, will work to good advantage. Twitch-ups
+are also successful, and we might also recommend the traps on pages
+107, 116 and 128 as worthy of trial when the animal is not desired
+to be captured alive.
+
+Squirrels may be skinned either by ripping up the belly, or in a
+whole piece, as described in regard to the fox.
+
+We pause before going further into the mysteries of trapping in
+connection with the animals which we are about to consider, as
+they are generally exempt from the wiles of the trapper's art,
+coming more properly in the field of the hunter or sportsman. The
+idea of trapping a deer, for instance, seems barbarous indeed;
+but are not all the ways of deceiving and killing these splendid
+animals equally so? Are not the various strategies and cunning
+devices of the sportsman, by which these noble creatures are decoyed
+and murdered, equally open to the same objection? As far as barbarity
+goes, there is to us but little choice between the two methods;
+and, generally speaking, we decry them both, and most especially
+do not wish to be understood as encouraging the trapping of these
+animals, except where all other means have failed, and in cases
+where their capture becomes in a measure a matter of necessity.
+This is often the case in the experience of professional trappers.
+The life of the trapper during the trapping season is spent almost
+entirely in the wilderness, often many miles from any human habitation;
+and at times he is solely dependent upon his gun or trap for his
+necessary food.
+
+Sometimes in a dry season, when the leaves and twigs crackle under
+foot, the rifle is as good as useless, for it becomes impossible to
+approach a deer within shooting range. And there are other times
+when ammunition is exhausted, and the trapper is thus forced to rely
+only on his traps for his supply of food. In such circumstances,
+the necessities of the trapper are paramount, and the trapping of
+deer, in such straits, as the most desirable food is rather to
+be recommended than condemned. The same remarks also in a measure
+apply to the moose and prong-horn antelope, as well as to several
+other animals hereinafter mentioned, as they are generally considered
+more in the light of the hunter's than the trapper's game.
+
+
+[Page 215]
+THE DEER.
+
+There are upwards of eight varieties of this animal which inhabit
+North America. The common red or Virginian deer is found throughout
+the United States. The stag or Wapiti deer is now chiefly confined
+to the country west of the Mississippi and northward to British
+America. The moose we shall speak of hereafter. The Rocky Mountain
+mule deer, and the long-tailed deer of the same locality, are two
+more species, and there are also the black-tailed deer and the
+reindeer, the latter of which is a native of British America. The
+scope of our volume will not of course admit of detailed directions
+for trapping each variety, but, as the habits of all the species are
+in a measure similar, our remarks will apply to them in general,
+and particularly to the red or Virginian deer, which is the most
+important to American trappers.
+
+The trap for taking deer should be large, strong, and covered with
+spikes. The Newhouse (No. 4) is particularly adapted, and is especially
+arranged for this purpose.
+
+When the path of the deer is discovered on the border of a stream
+or lake, the trap should be set beneath the surface of the water,
+near the tracks of the animal, and covered by a handful of dried
+grass thrown upon it. When thus set, it may either be left to run
+its chances, or success, further insured by the following precaution:
+In winter the principal food of the deer consists of the twigs,
+buds, and bark of various forest trees, and particularly those
+of the basswood and maple. In the season when the traps are set
+as above described, a most tempting bait is furnished by a large
+branch of either of those trees, freshly cut, and laid near the
+trap. The deer in feeding are thus almost sure to be captured.
+There are certain glands which are located on the inner side of the
+hind legs of the deer, and which emit a very strong and peculiar
+odor. The scent of these glands seems to attract the animal, and
+for this reason are cut out and used by trappers as a scent-bait.
+In the case already described, it is well to rub the glands on
+the twigs of the trees, thus serving as an additional attraction
+to the bait. There is still another method of trapping deer, which
+is commonly employed in the winter time. The trap is sunk in the
+snow at the foot of a tree, and the bait, consisting of an ear
+of corn or a few beards of other grain, is fastened to the tree,
+above the trap, three or more feet from the ground. The animal, in
+reaching for the bait, places its foot in the trap and is secured.
+
+[Page 216]
+When first caught, the deer becomes very wild and violent; so much
+so that if the trap were chained or retarded by a heavy clog, the
+chain, or even the trap itself, would most likely be broken. The
+weight of a trap of this size is generally a sufficient impediment,
+no clog, or at best a very light one, being required. The first
+frantic plunge being over, the entrapped creature immediately yields
+and lies down upon the ground, and is always to be found within
+a few rods of where the trap was first sprung upon him. During
+the winter the traps may also be set in the snow, using the same
+bait already described. It is a common method to fell a small tree
+for the purpose, setting the traps beneath the snow, around the
+top branches. The deer, in browsing in the tender twigs or buds,
+are almost certain to be captured. Dead-falls of different kinds
+are sometimes used in trapping the deer, with good success; using
+the scent bait already described, together with the other bait.
+The food of the deer during the summer consists of nuts, fruits,
+acorns, grass, berries, and water plants, and when in convenient
+neighborhood of cultivated lands, they do not hesitate to make
+a meal from the farmer's turnips, cabbages, and grain.
+
+As we have said, the winter food consists chiefly of the twigs of
+trees. When the snow is deep the deer form what are called "yards,"
+about such trees as they particularly select for their browsing.
+These yards are made simply by tramping down the snow, and large
+numbers of the deer are often thus found together. As the supply
+of food is consumed, the yard is enlarged, so as to enclose other
+trees for browsing, and where deep snows abound throughout the
+winter, these enclosures often become quite extensive in area.
+Panthers, wolves, and wolverines take especial advantage of these,
+and easily secure their victims. By wolves especially entire herds
+of deer are thus destroyed, and whole yards depopulated in a single
+night. Panthers secrete themselves in the trees above the boughs
+overhanging the "yards," and, with stealthy movements, approach and
+pounce upon their unsuspecting prey. The blood-thirsty wolverine
+secretes himself in the nooks and by-ways to spring upon its tawny
+victim unawares. These, together with man, form the principal foes
+of the deer, and we can truthfully assert that the _hunter_ is
+much more its enemy than the _trapper_.
+
+As we do not wish to encourage the wanton trapping of this noble
+creature, it would perhaps be well for us to devote also few words
+in describing the various modes of hunting the animal,
+[Page 217]
+adopted by the "professional sportsmen" throughout the land. The
+most common method is that called "still hunting," most generally
+pursued in winter. The hunter is shod with deer-skin or other soft
+sandals, and starts out with his rifle and ammunition. Finding the
+fresh track of the deer, he cautiously and noiselessly follows up
+the trail, keeping a sharp lookout ahead. A practised deer-hunter
+becomes very skillful and accurate, and the animal is nearly always
+tracked to discovery, when he is shot. The deer's sense of smell is
+extremely acute, and, when in shooting range, it is very necessary
+to approach them in the face of the wind, the direction of which
+may be easily determined by holding the finger in the mouth for a
+moment, afterward pointing it upward toward the sky. The cool side
+of the finger will indicate the direction from which the wind blows,
+and toward that direction the deer should always be approached, or
+as far toward that direction as possible. It will sometimes happen
+that the hunter will surprise the buck, doe, and fawn together. In
+order to secure the three, shoot the doe first. The buck and fawn
+will remain near the spot. The buck should next be shot, and then
+the fawn, the charge being aimed at the breast. Never approach a
+wounded deer without reloading the gun, as he is often more frightened
+than hurt, and is likely to start and run away, unless prevented
+by another shot. During the snow season, deer are always watchful
+of their back track. They are generally at rest during the day,
+starting out late in the afternoon on their usual ramblings, which
+they continue through the night. During the dark hours they love
+to resort to the water side in quest of aquatic plants, and are
+here often taken by hunters, many of which consider "night hunting"
+the favorite and most exciting sport. It is pursued in the following
+manner: The hunter requires a boat or canoe, page 261, a good rifle,
+and a lamp. The lamp, with a screen or reflector behind it, is
+placed at the bow of the boat. One hunter takes the oar, and, with
+noiseless paddle, propels or sculls the boat from the stem. The
+armed hunter crouches behind the light, with the muzzle of his
+rifle projecting beyond the screen sufficiently to easily show the
+forward sight on the tip of the barrel. A dark lantern is sometimes
+used as a light. The eyes of the deer shine very perceptibly at
+night, and his presence on the banks is thus easily detected. If
+he is noiselessly approached, he will remain transfixed by the
+effect of the light from the boat, and he may be neared even to a
+very close range, when he is easily despatched. Hundreds of deer
+[Page 218]
+are thus taken during the summer and autumn. Deer are also chased
+by dogs until they are forced to take refuge in the nearest rivers
+or lakes, when the hunter in his canoe overtakes and shoots them.
+Another method is frequently employed in the hunting of the deer.
+These animals are very fond of salt, and with it they are often
+decoyed to a spot where the hunter lies in wait for them. These
+places are called "deer licks," or salting places, and can be made
+as follows: Select a locality where deer are known to frequent, and
+place a handful of salt either on a smooth spot of ground or in
+the hollow of a log. A section of a log is sometimes slightly dug
+out at one end and the other inserted in the earth, the salt being
+placed in the hollow. The hunter secretes himself in a neighboring
+tree, sometimes erecting a bench or scaffolding for comfort, and,
+provided with gun and ammunition, he awaits the coming of the deer.
+Hunters say that a deer seldom looks higher than his head, and
+that a sportsman on one of these scaffoldings, even though he is
+clumsy in his movements, is seldom noticed by the animal.
+
+The salt lick is also utilized for night hunting. A head-lantern
+is generally required. This can be made in the following manner:
+Construct a cylinder of birch bark or paste-board or any like substance,
+ten inches in height, and of sufficient size to fit closely on
+the head. A circular partition should next be firmly inserted at
+about the middle of the cylinder, and the centre of the partition
+should be provided with a socket for the reception of a candle.
+On this end of the cylinder a piece should now be cut to admit
+of the passage of light from the candle on that side. Having this
+fire-hat at hand wait patiently for the game. When a significant
+noise is heard light the candle and place the cylinder on the head,
+with the open cut in front, thus directing the light toward the
+ground. As the deer approaches, his fiery eyes will easily be seen,
+and the light from the candle will shine sufficiently on the rifle
+to clearly reveal the sights and admit of a sure aim. There is
+still another method of night hunting by the salt lick. The rifle
+is aimed directly at the salted spot, and thus firmly fixed--this
+preparation being made in the daytime. When night approaches, the
+hunter finds a piece of phosphorescent wood or "fox fire," and places
+it on the ground, at a point which he has previously determined
+to be on a direct line of the aim of his gun. The "fox fire" is
+plainly seen from the tree, and as soon as it is darkened he knows
+that it is obscured by the deer, and he pulls the trigger and kills
+his game.
+
+Deer are hunted at all seasons of the year, _but ought not_ to
+[Page 219]
+be hunted during the summer. The sport legitimately begins in September,
+when the buck begins to harden his horns, and when his flesh is
+in its best condition for food. In October the deer is more shy,
+and during this month and after, the sport is at its height. The
+deer should be skinned from an incision down the belly, and the
+hide spread on a hoop stretcher, page 275.
+
+
+THE MOOSE.
+
+We have already given so much space to the hunting of the deer
+that we shall be obliged to cut short our remarks on the Moose,
+particularly as it is a representative of the same family. This
+animal is the largest of the Deer tribe, being seven or eight feet
+in height and often weighing over fifteen hundred pounds. It is
+supplied with immense flat spreading horns, sometimes expanding to
+the distance of six feet between the tips. It is found in Maine,
+Oregon and Washington Territories, and in the neighborhood of the
+great lakes, and inhabits the regions as far
+[Page 220]
+north as the Arctic Sea. Its color is yellowish brown. The fur is
+thicker in winter than summer, and on the neck of the animal the
+hair is very coarse and hangs in an immense tuft of over a foot
+in length. The flesh is most excellent food and is much esteemed
+by trappers. The habits of the moose are in most respects identical
+with the deer, already described, and like them they form "yards"
+during the winter season.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In the North the moose is hunted on snow-shoes by the natives,
+and in summer they are shot like the deer. They are often very
+dangerous and terrible creatures to hunt, and the utmost care and
+skill, as described in regard to the deer, is required on the part
+of the hunter in order to avoid detection through the exquisite
+sense of smell which the animal possesses. The moose is easily
+trapped. The Newhouse, No. 6, is especially adapted for the purpose,
+and it should be chained to a clog of stone or wood of over fifty
+pounds in weight. Set the trap in the "yard," or beneath the snow
+where the moose frequents, or in the summer, or fall seasons, as
+described for the deer, using the same methods in regard to baiting,
+etc.
+
+Skin after the manner of cattle, and stretch the hide on a
+hoop-spreader. Page 275.
+
+
+ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.
+
+These creatures are natives of the entire range of the Rocky Mountains,
+and are especially prized on account of the superior quality of
+their flesh as food. They are much larger and more powerful than
+the domestic sheep, and the ram is provided with enormous curved
+horns. The wool of the animal is intermixed with coarse grey hairs,
+and the general appearance of the fur is russet grey, with the
+exception of the rump and under parts, which are of a dirty white
+color. The animal is generally very wary and retiring, and inhabits
+the most secluded and inaccessible mountain regions and rocky cliffs.
+
+They are easily captured by the steel trap (No. 5) set in their
+haunts. The dead-fall is also used in some instances. Remove the
+skin as described for the deer.
+
+
+THE BUFFALO.
+
+The Buffaloes or Bison of the Western plains is too well known
+to need description. They travel in migrating herds of thousands,
+and are found from Texas to British America. Their food
+[Page 221]
+consists chiefly of grass, of which the "Buffalo grass" is their
+great delight. They graze and travel through the day and rest by
+night. They are more the game of the hunter than the trapper, although
+the largest side Newhouse would effectually secure one of the animals.
+The Buffalo is generally hunted on horseback, the usual method
+being that of stealing into the drove while grazing, always moving
+against the wind in order to avoid being scented. The flesh is
+palatable and by many much relished. The Buffalo skins of commerce
+are furnished by the cows. The bull skins are almost devoid of fur
+on the hinder parts, the hair being confined to the huge heavy
+mass on the hump and mane. Skin the animal as described for the
+Moose.
+
+
+THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE.
+
+This sole American representative of the Antelope tribe we believe
+is seldom trapped; but as it is a well-known animal on the Western
+plains, a short mention of it is required here. In general shape
+this creature bears considerable resemblance to the deer, the form of
+the horn being its chief peculiarity, each one of which is provided
+with a single prong, from which the animal takes its name, of Prong
+Horn. The color of the body is brownish-yellow, with the exception
+of the rump and belly which are almost white. The Antelopes generally
+travel in herds, and are much hunted by the Indians who surround
+them and destroy them with heavy clubs. Like the deer, their sense
+of smell is especially keen and the same caution is required in
+hunting them. In size they are about the same as the Virginian
+Deer. They are wonderfully graceful in all their movements, and
+are even more fleet of foot than the deer. These Antelopes inhabit
+the Western Prairies and wooded borders from New Mexico northward,
+and their flesh is much esteemed as an article of diet. They may
+be caught in their feeding places, as recommended for the deer,
+using the same sized trap.
+
+The dead fall is also efficacious in their capture, and they are
+also sometimes taken in large pit-falls covered over with light
+sticks and leaves, to resemble the natural surroundings. On this
+false covering, the bait, consisting of green corn or other vegetables,
+is strewn and a high wall of logs or stones is erected around it,
+in order that the animal will be obliged to _jump_ slightly in
+order to reach the bait.
+
+Remove the hide as recommended for the deer.
+
+
+[Page 222]
+SHOOTING AND POISONING.
+
+Until the introduction of the steel-trap, shooting was a common
+method of taking fur bearing animals, and even to the present day
+it is quite prevalent in some localities. Anyone who has had any
+experience with the fur trade must have learned that furs which
+are "shot," are much affected in value. Some furriers will not
+purchase such skins at any price; and they never meet with any
+but a very low offer. "Trapped furs" and "shot furs" are terms of
+considerable significance in the fur trade, and anyone who wishes
+to realize from a profitable sale of his furs, should use his gun
+as little as possible. A shot grazing through the fur of an animal
+cuts the hairs as if with a knife, and a single such furrow is
+often enough to spoil a skin. It is these oblique grazing shots
+which particularly damage the fur, and an animal killed with a
+_shot gun_ is seldom worth skinning for the value of its pelt. If
+firearms are used, the rifle is preferable. If the animal chances
+to be hit broadside or by a direct penetrating bullet, the two
+small holes thus made may not particularly effect the value of its
+skin, although even then the chances are rather slight.
+
+Trapped furs are of the greatest value.
+
+The use of poison is objectionable as a means of capture in animals
+especially desired for their fur. Strychnine is the substance generally
+employed, and unless its victim is skinned _immediately_ after
+death the pelt becomes considerably injured by the absorption of
+the poison. It has the effect of loosening the fur and the hair
+sheds easily.
+
+The poison is principally used in the capture of Wolves and animals
+considered in the light of vermin. For a wolf or fox, the poison
+is mixed with lard or tallow and spread on pieces of meat, or a
+small amount of the powder is inclosed in an incision in the bait.
+The amount sufficient for a single dose may be easily held on the
+point of a knife blade, and death ensues in a a very few moments
+after the bait is taken. For a Bear the dose should be a half
+thimbleful, and it should be deposited in the centre of a piece
+of honey comb, the cells being emptied of their honey for that
+purpose.
+
+Other animals may be taken by proportionate quantities of the poison,
+but for general purposes we discourage its use.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 223]
+[Illustration: THE CAMPAIGN.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 225]
+BOOK VII.
+
+CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS.
+
+[Illustration: I]t has been the author's object in the preparation
+of this book not simply to content the reader with a mere superficial
+knowledge of so-called "Amateur trapping," but to carry him further
+into the art professionally considered, and for this reason we
+present in the following chapter a full catalogue of the trapper's
+outfit, containing detailed descriptions of all the necessaries for
+a most thorough campaign, including boats and canoes, log cabins,
+shanties and tents, snow shoes and camp furniture of all kinds,
+together with numerous and valuable hints on trapper's food.
+
+
+PLAN OF CAMPAIGN.
+
+The first thing to be considered in reference to a campaign is
+the selection of a trapping ground, and it is always desirable
+to choose a locality where travel by water can be resorted to as
+much as possible. Otter, mink, beaver and muskrat are among the
+most desirable game for the trapper, and as these are all amphibious
+animals, a watered district is therefore the best on all accounts.
+Lakes, ponds, and streams, bordered by wild woods, form the best
+possible grounds for general trapping, and the mountain lakes of the
+Adirondacks and Alleghenies, and all similar regions are especially
+desirable on this account. Almost any wild country, intersected
+with streams, lakes, and rivers, is apt to abound with game, and
+some trappers confine their labors to the borders of a single lake,
+and adjoining forest. This plan is especially to be recommended to
+the amateur, as much of the travelling to and fro can be done by boat,
+[Page 226]
+the labor being thus much lightened. Having decided upon the seat
+of operations, the young trappers should immediately set to work
+at building their shanties and boats. The home shanty is of the
+greatest importance, and should be constructed first. Select some
+flat bit of land near the water and clear it of brush wood, or
+other rubbish and proceed to work as described on page 242. A good
+axe is the only tool required by an experienced trapper in the
+construction of such a shanty. Should the trapping lines be very
+extensive, additional _bark_ shanties, page 245, will require to
+be made at intervals along the line, for sleeping stations and
+shelters in case of storm. The professional trapper generally attends
+to the building of his shanties and boats before the trapping season
+commences, and thus has everything in readiness for his campaign.
+If in a birch bark country the Indian canoe, page 260, is the most
+desirable craft, on account of its lightness and portability. The
+dug-out, or bateau, described on page 259, will also do good service.
+
+The trapping season begins in October, and everything should be
+in readiness at this time, so that the trappers may devote all
+their time strictly to business.
+
+The route of the professional trapper often extends over fifty
+miles, and the number and weight of traps and provisions which
+these rough-and-ready individuals often carry as personal luggage
+is most astounding. Fifty or sixty pounds apiece is considered a
+_fair_ burden, and they deem no one a fit physical subject for a
+campaign who cannot at least manage thirty pounds with comparative
+ease. The number of the trapping party generally consists of from
+two to four. A few days prior to the opening of the trapping season,
+the party start out, laden with their burden of traps and provisions,
+and deposit them at intervals along the line, the provisions being
+mainly kept in the "home shanty." Several trips may be necessary to
+complete these preparations, unless the trapping ground is readily
+accessible by wagon or boat, in which case the transportation is
+much easier.
+
+The "home shanty" is generally built only when the trapping grounds
+are far in the wilderness, miles away from civilization. If the
+line extends from the outskirts of some town or village, such a
+hut may be dispensed with. It is used principally as a storehouse
+for furs, provisions, ammunition, tools, and other valuables, and
+also serves as a point of rendezvous, or a home, for the trappers,
+one of the number being generally left in charge to "keep shanty"
+while his companions are on their tramps in search of game. If
+desired, a boy may be taken
+[Page 227]
+along for this especial purpose. In every case, some such guardian
+is very necessary, and particularly in wild districts, abounding in
+wolves and bears, as these animals have an odd trick of breaking
+into unguarded shanties, and often make sad havoc with its stores.
+Steel traps are almost exclusively used by the professional trapper,
+and the supply for a single campaign will often exceed one hundred
+and fifty. Many of the traps described in the early part of this
+work are also used, and for the amateur who has not the ready cash
+to layout in steel traps, are decidedly to be recommended and will
+be found very efficient. From thirty to fifty traps would be a fair
+number for an ordinary amateur trapping season, and the probable
+cost of such a lot would be from $15 to $25. The sizes of the traps
+will depend upon the game sought, No. 2-1/2 being a good average.
+With this supply, relying somewhat on dead-falls, twitch-ups, and
+the various other devices described in our early pages, we can
+guarantee lively sport, of course, presuming that good judgment has
+been used in the selection of a trapping ground. In later articles,
+under the proper headings, we give full details concerning food
+and cooking utensils, shelter and bedding, as well as many other
+requisites for the trapper's comfort. To complete the list he should
+provide himself with a good sharp axe, and hatchet, and if the
+log canoe is in anticipation he will also require the other tools
+mentioned on page 259 an oilstone being carried in order to keep the
+various tools in good repair; an auger, saw, and some large nails are
+also to be desired, and a small parcel containing needles, thread,
+pins, scissors, etc., will be found indispensable. "Cleanliness is
+next to Godliness," and there are no more luxurious necessities
+in camp life than a piece of soap and a clean towel. For light it
+is advisable to carry a supply of candles, or a lantern with a can
+of oil. The latter is, of course, more bulky, and for a campaign
+wholly on foot is hardly to be recommended on this account.
+
+Each trapper should be provided with a stout jack-knife, pocket-compass,
+and a supply of matches, a number of these being always carried on
+the person to provide for the emergencies to which the hunter is
+always subject.
+
+One of the party should carry a double-barrelled shot-gun and another
+a rifle, or both may be combined in a single weapon. A revolver
+is also a desirable acquisition. Purified neats-foot oil should
+be used on the fire-arms, and in lieu of this, some trappers use
+the melted fat of the grouse for the same purpose. A good supply
+of fishing tackle is almost indispensable, and
+[Page 228]
+with these valuable equipments the young trapper may defy the wilderness
+with all its hazards. With his traps, gun and rod, together with his
+store of provisions, he may look forward to a larder well stocked
+and may calculate on an appetite which will do it justice.
+
+The list of portable provisions and cooking utensils best adapted
+for a campaign are given under their proper title, and will be
+found to cover all the wants of the most fastidious. The stove
+is the most cumbersome article, but trappers generally dispense
+with its use altogether, looking at it rather in the light of a
+luxury as well as a nuisance. The open camp fire will answer every
+purpose, both for cooking and for comfort in cold weather.
+
+For clothing it is desirable to carry at least two suits, in order
+to have a "change." They should be of woolen, and from the _hunter's_
+point of view, should be of a sombre shade, so as to be as inconspicuous
+as possible. The use of high-top boots is to be deprecated, as they
+are tiresome and unwieldy. Short boots, with thick, iron-pegged
+soles, are generally preferred by trappers, and in order to render
+them soft, pliable, and waterproof they may be soaked or smeared
+with a hot mixture, composed of one part rosin, two parts beeswax,
+and three parts tallow. Simple tallow, or even the fat of the deer,
+is sometimes used for the same purpose.
+
+Calculating on a successful campaign, a supply of board-stretchers,
+page 273, will be needed for the curing of the skins, and if our
+adventurous enthusiasts should extend their experience along into
+the winter, the toboggan and snow-shoes will come into good use
+for convenient winter travel.
+
+The trapping season properly commences in October and ends in April.
+The pelts of fur bearing animals are in their best condition during
+this time, and in the winter are in their prime. The various modes
+of setting and baiting traps for all our leading animals are clearly
+set forth in another part of this volume. And in the accompanying
+engravings will be found life like representations of each species.
+
+In a trapping campaign it is an excellent plan to select a central
+point for the home shanty, extending the trapping lines in several
+directions therefrom, following the borders of the lakes or streams
+for the otter, beaver, mink and muskrat; and setting a few lines
+inland for the capture of martens, racoons, foxes, etc.
+
+For an amateur campaign this a most excellent and convenient
+[Page 229]
+arrangement, the lines may extend all the way from one to five miles
+each, and connect at their edges, the whole ground plan resembling the
+form of a wheel, the shanty corresponding to the hub, and the trapping
+lines the spokes, the tire representing the circuit connecting the
+various lines. Where the latter extend over many miles it is well
+to construct bark shanties at the limits. Let each trapper take
+a certain "spoke," and follow it to its terminus, returning on the
+adjacent line. On his arrival at the shanty he should immediately
+set to work skinning the animals taken, and stretching their furs.
+Full directions for skinning the various game are given under their
+respective titles, and the curing of skins is treated in detail
+in another chapter of this work. We also present a table of the
+comparative values of the various American furs at the present
+date of publication. Of course these values are constantly varying,
+but the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values
+of common and scarce furs. Great care should always be used in
+removing the skins from the various animals, as the final value
+of the fur much depends upon this. They should not be removed from
+the stretchers until perfectly dry, and should then be laid in a
+cool, airy place. When near a village or settlement it is advisable
+to send "into town" every few days with a batch of furs for safe
+keeping, and particularly so when the skins are valuable, and in
+cases where the home shanty is left unguarded. The value of prime
+otter or mink pelt is a matter of no small importance, and a good
+trapping ground furnishes a rare field for light fingered prowlers
+who are well posted on the market price of raw furs, and who are
+constantly on the lookout for such prizes, either in the shape
+of the prepared skin, or on the back of the live animal. These
+"trap robbers," or poachers, are the pests of trappers, and many
+have learned from dear experience the advisability of placing their
+choice furs beyond the reach of the marauders.
+
+The hut in which they are stored is nearly always kept guarded,
+and, where this is impracticable, the skins are hid in hollow trees,
+or carried to some near settlement, as we have already mentioned.
+
+If the campaign proves successful and promises well for another
+season, it is customary to hide the traps beneath rocks, thus saving
+the labor of a second transportation. In order to keep the traps
+from rusting, it is well to cover them with oat or buckwheat chaff.
+The rock should be first rolled from its resting place, and a bed
+of the chaff made beneath it, in which the traps should be covered,
+the rock being afterwards replaced. In a few such
+[Page 230]
+places all the traps may be effectually stored away, and they will
+be found in prime order and ready for business on the following
+season.
+
+In the months of September and October trappers are much annoyed by
+gnats and mosquitoes, and, as a preventive against the attacks of
+these pests, we give on page 255 some valuable receipts, which have
+stood the test of time, and are still the most effective remedies.
+The "smudge," consisting of a smouldering pile of birch bark is
+also used where the insects infest the tents or shanties by night.
+The bark should be dry, and should not be allowed to blaze. The
+smudge is generally placed at the entrance of the tent, and the
+trapper may then take his choice between smoke or mosquitoes, both
+cannot exist together, and a tent infested with the blood-thirsty
+pests may be effectually cleared in a few minutes by the introduction
+of smoking brand for a few seconds. If the tent is now closely
+buttoned and the smudge kept burning directly outside, there will
+be no further trouble with the mosquitoes, and the odor of the
+smoke is, after all, but a slight annoyance and to some is even
+enjoyable after being once accustomed to it. When the home shanty
+is infested, it may be cleared in the same way, and by the aid of
+two or more smudges on the windward side may be kept free from
+the insects.
+
+
+FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS.
+
+The professional trapper on a campaign depends much upon his traps
+for his food, and often entirely contents himself with the subsistence
+thus gained. We _encourage_ and _believe_ in "roughing it" to a
+certain extent, but not to that limit to which it is often carried
+by many professional "followers of the trap" throughout our country.
+The course of diet to which these individuals subject themselves,
+would often do better credit to a half civilized barbarian than
+to an enlightened white man, and when it comes to starting on a
+campaign with no provision for food excepting a few traps, a gun, and
+a box of matches, and relying on a chance chip for a frying-pan, he
+would rather be "counted out." In ordinary cases we see no necessity
+for such deprivation, and, on the other hand, we decry the idea of
+transporting a whole kitchen and larder into the woods. There is
+a happy medium between the two extremes, whereby a light amount
+of luggage in the shape of cooking utensils and closely packed
+portable food, may render the wild life of the trapper very cozy
+and comfortable, and his meals a source of enjoyment, instead of a
+[Page 231]
+fulfilment of physical duty. What with the stock of traps, necessary
+tools, blankets, etc., the trapper's burden is bound to be pretty
+heavy, and it becomes necessary to select such food for transportation
+as shall combine the greatest amount of nutriment and the least possible
+weight, and to confine the utensils to those absolutely necessary
+for decent cooking.
+
+The trapper's culinary outfit may then be reduced to the following
+items, and in them he will find a sufficiency for very passable
+living.
+
+One of the most nutritious and desirable articles of food consists
+of fine sifted Indian meal; and it is the only substantial article
+of diet which many trappers will deign to carry at all.
+
+By some it is mixed with twice its quantity of wheat flour, and
+is thus used in the preparation of quite a variety of palatable
+dishes. One or two pounds of salt pork will also be found a valuable
+addition; boxes of pepper and salt and soda should also be carried.
+With these simple provisions alone, relying on his gun, traps and
+fishing tackle for animal food, the young trapper may rely on three
+enjoyable meals a day, if he is anything of a cook. Pork fritters
+are not to be despised, even at a hotel table; and with the above
+they can be made to suit the palate of the most fastidious.
+
+Indian meal is a valuable accessory with cooks generally, and to
+the trapper it often becomes his great "staff of life." If our
+young enthusiast desires to try his hand at roughing it to the
+fullest extent, compatible with common sense and the strength of an
+ordinary physical constitution, he may endeavor to content himself
+with the above portable rations; but with anything less it becomes
+too much like starvation to arouse our enthusiasm. For cooking
+utensils, a small frying-pan and a deep tin basin are indispensable;
+and a drinking cup is also to be desired. The kind known as the
+telescope cup, constructed in three parts, which close within each
+other, when not in use, possesses great advantages on account of
+its portability. With these one can get along pretty decently.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The pork fritters already mentioned form a favorite dish with trappers
+generally, and can be made in the following
+[Page 232]
+way; have at hand a thick batter of the Indian meal and flour;
+cut a few slices of the pork, and fry them in the frying-pan until
+the fat is tried out; cut a few more slices of the pork; dip them
+in the batter and drop them in the bubbling fat, seasoning with
+salt and pepper; cook until light brown and eat while hot. The
+question now arises, "What shall we eat them with?" If you are
+"roughing it," such luxuries as plates and knifes and forks are
+surely out of the question; and you must content yourself with
+a pair of chop sticks "a la Chinee," or make your jackknife do
+double purpose, using a flat chip or stone as a plate. A small
+tin plate may be added to the list of utensils if desired, but
+we are now confining ourselves to the "lowest limit" of absolute
+necessities. That wholesome dish known as "boiled mush," may come
+under the above bill of fare; and fried mush is an old stand-by
+to the rough and ready trapper. In the first case the Indian meal
+is slowly boiled for one hour, and then seasoned as eaten. It is
+then allowed to cool, and is cut in slices and fried in fat. Indian
+meal cakes are easily made by dropping a quantity of the hot mush
+in the frying-pan, having previously stirred in a small quantity
+of soda, and turning it as soon as the lower side is browned. A
+Johnny cake thus made is always appetizing, and with the addition
+of a little sugar, it becomes a positive luxury. Hoe cakes, so
+much relished by many, can be made by mixing up a quantity into
+a thick mass, adding a little soda. Bake in the fire on a chip or
+flat stone. The trapper's ground is generally in the neighborhood
+of lakes or streams, and fresh fish are always to be had. They
+may be cooked in a manner which would tempt a city epicure; and
+when it comes to the cooking of a fresh brook trout, neither a
+Prof. Blot nor a Delmonico can compete with the trapper's recipe.
+The trout is first emptied and cleaned through a hole at the neck,
+if the fish is large enough to admit of it; if not, it should be
+done by a slit up the belly. The interior should be carefully washed
+and seasoned with salt and pepper; and in the case of a large fish,
+it should be stuffed with Indian meal. Build a good fire and allow
+the wood to burn down to embers; lay the fish in the hot ashes
+and cover it with the burning coals and embers; leave it thus for
+about half an hour, more or less, in proportion to the size of the
+fish (this may be easily determined by experiment); when done,
+remove it carefully from the ashes, and peel off the skin. The
+clean pink flesh and delicious savor which now manifest themselves
+will create an appetite where none before existed. All the delicate
+[Page 233]
+flavor and sweet juices of the fish are thus retained, and the trout
+as food is then known in its perfection.
+
+By the ordinary method of cooking, the trout loses much of its
+original flavor by the evaporation of its juices; and although
+a delicious morsel in any event, it is never fully appreciated
+excepting after being roasted in the ashes, as above described.
+
+The other method consists in rolling the fish in the Indian meal
+and frying it in the frying-pan with a piece of the salt pork.
+Seasoning as desired.
+
+Partridges, ducks, quail, and other wild fowl are most delicious
+when cooked in the ashes as described for the trout. The bird should
+be drawn in the ordinary manner, and the inside washed perfectly
+clean. It should then be embedded in the hot coals and ashes, the
+feathers having been previously saturated with water. When done,
+the skin and feathers will easily peel off, and the flesh will
+be found to be wonderfully sweet, tender, and juicy. A stuffing
+of pounded crackers and minced meat of any kind, with plenty of
+seasoning, greatly improves the result, or the Indian meal may be
+used if desired. A fowl thus roasted is a rare delicacy. A partridge,
+squirrel, pigeon, woodcock, or any other game can be broiled as
+well in the woods as at home, using a couple of green-branched
+twigs for a spider or "toaster," and turning occasionally. For
+this purpose the bird should be plucked of its feathers, cleanly
+drawn and washed, and spread out by cutting down the back. Venison,
+moose, or bear meat, can be deliciously roasted in joints of several
+pounds before a good fire, using a green birch branch as a spit,
+and resting it on two logs, situated on opposite sides of the fire.
+The meat can thus be occasionally turned and propped in place by
+a small stick, sprinkling occasionally with salt and pepper. The
+above manner of making the fire is that adopted by most woodsmen.
+Two large green logs, of several feet in length, being first laid
+down at about three feet distant, between these the fire is built,
+and when a kettle is used a heavy pole is so arranged as to project
+and hold it over the fire. A cutlet of venison fried in the pan
+is delicious, and a "Johnny cake" cooked in the fat of this meat
+is a decided dainty.
+
+With the above hints for a "rough and ready" campaign, we think
+the young trapper ought to be able to get along quite comfortably.
+
+We will now pass on to the consideration of what the average
+[Page 234]
+professional trapper would call "luxuries." The stock of these
+depends much upon the location of the trapping ground. If accessible
+by wagon or boat, or both, they may be carried in unlimited quantities,
+but when they are to be borne on the back of the trapper through
+a pathless wilderness of miles, the supply will, of course, have
+to be cut short. When two or three start out together it becomes
+much easier, one carrying the traps and tools; another the guns,
+cooking utensils, etc.; the third confining his luggage to the food.
+One of the most necessary requisites for a journey on foot consists
+in a knapsack or large square basket, which can be easily strapped
+to the back of the shoulders, thus leaving the hands free. Matches
+are absolutely indispensable, and a good supply should be carried.
+They should always be enclosed in a large-mouthed bottle with a
+close fitting cork, to prevent their being damaged by moisture. For
+further safety in this regard the matches may be rendered perfectly
+water-proof by dipping their ends in thin mastic or shellac varnish.
+If not at hand, this varnish can be easily made by dissolving a
+small quantity of either sort of gum in three or four times its
+bulk of alcohol. It is well to dip the whole stick in the solution,
+thereby rendering the entire match impervious to moisture. Lucifer
+matches are the best, and, when thus prepared, they may lay in
+water for hours without any injury. It is a fearful thing to find
+oneself in the wilderness, cold and hungry, and without the means
+of lighting a fire, and to prepare for such an emergency it is
+always advisable to be provided with a pocket sun glass. So long as
+the sun shines a fire is thus always to be had, either by igniting
+a small quantity of powder (which the trapper is always supposed
+to carry) or using powdered "touch wood" or "punk tinder" in its
+place. Fine scrapings from dry wood will easily ignite by the sun
+glass, and by fanning the fire and adding additional fuel it will
+soon burst into flame. In cloudy weather, and in the absence of
+matches, a fire may easily be kindled by sprinkling a small quantity
+of powder on a large flat stone, setting a percussion cap in its
+midst, and covering the whole with dry leaves. A smart strike on
+the cap with a hammer will have the desired result, and by heaping
+additional fuel on the blazing leaves the fire soon reaches large
+proportions. If the young trapper should ever be so unfortunate
+as to find himself in the wild woods, chilled and hungry, minus
+matches, powder, caps, and sun glass, he may as a last resort try
+the following: Scrape some lint or cotton from some portion of
+the garment, or some tinder from a dry stick, and lay it on the
+[Page 235]
+surface of some rough rock, white quartz rock if it can be found.
+Next procure a fragment of the same stone, or a piece of steel from
+some one of the traps, and strike its edge sharply, and with a
+skipping stroke into the further side of the tinder, the direction
+being such as will send the sparks thus produced into the inflammable
+material. Continue this operation until the tinder ignites. By now
+gently fanning the smoking mass it may easily be coaxed into flame.
+At least so our Adirondack guide told us last summer. The author has
+never had occasion to test the merits of the plan for himself, and
+has no special desire of being so placed, as that his life will hang
+upon its success. He presents it therefore as a mere suggestion
+without endorsing its practicability, and would rather prefer matches
+in the long run. The open fire generally serves both for purposes
+of warmth and cooking, but by many, a camp stove is considered a
+great improvement. Stoves of this character, and for this especial
+purpose, are in the market. They are small and portable, with pipe
+and furniture, all of which pack away closely into the interior.
+A fire is easily started in one of these stoves, and, by closing
+the damper, a slow fire may be kept up through the night. The stove
+is generally set up at the entrance of the tent, the pipe passing
+through the top, in a hole near the ridge pole. The furniture consists
+of three pots or kettles, which pack easily into each other, and
+when in the stove still leave ample room for a considerable amount
+of provisions.
+
+The kettles are made of block-tin, and frying-pans also, as these
+are much more light and portable than those made of iron. The lid
+may be used as a plate, and for this purpose the handle consists
+of an iron ring, which will fold flat against the surface when
+inverted. Knives, forks, and spoons are easily stowed away in the
+stove or knapsack, and a coffee-pot should always be carried. There
+is a knife known as the combination camp-knife, which is much used
+by hunters and trappers, and contains a spoon, fork, knife, and
+various other useful appendages, in a most compact form. It costs
+from one to two dollars.
+
+For provisions, potatoes will be found excellent, both on account
+of their portability and the variety of ways in which they may be
+served. They are healthy and nutritions, and always palatable.
+Beans are also very desirable for the same reasons. Wheat flour will
+form a valuable addition to the trapper's larder, and particularly
+so, if the "self-raising" kind can be had. This
+[Page 236]
+flour contains all the required ingredients for light bread and
+biscuit, and is sold by grocers generally, in packages of various
+sizes, with accompanying recipes. We strongly recommend it where
+a stove is employed; and to anyone who is fond of biscuit, bread,
+or pancakes, it will be appreciated. Butter, lard, sugar, salt,
+pepper and mustard are valuable accessories, and curry-powder,
+olive oil, and vinegar will often be found useful. Olive oil is
+often used by camping parties with the curry powder, and also as
+a substitute for lard in the frying-pan. Pork, Indian meal and
+crackers, wheaten grits, rice, and oat-meal are desirable, and
+coffee and tea are great luxuries. For soups, Liebig's extract of
+beef is a most valuable article, and with the addition of other
+ingredients, vegetables or meat, the result is a most delicious and
+nutritious dish. This extract is obtainable at almost any grocer's,
+and full directions and recipes accompany each jar. Canned vegetables
+are much to be desired on account of their portability, and are
+never so delicious as when cooked over a camp fire. Lemonade is
+always a luscious beverage, but never so much so as to a thirsty
+trapper. A few lemons are easily carried and will repay the trouble.
+
+All provisions, such as meal, flour, sugar, salt, crackers, and the
+like, should be enclosed in water-proof canvas bags, and labelled.
+The bags may be rendered water-proof either by painting, (in which
+case no _lead_ or arsenic paints should be used) or by dipping in
+the preparation described on page 247. If these are not used, a
+rubber blanket, page 250, may be substituted, the eatables being
+carefully wrapped therein, when not in use. The butter and lard
+should be put up in air-tight jars, and should be kept in a cool
+place, either on the ground in a shady spot, or in some cool spring.
+
+For a campaign on foot, the knapsack, or shoulder-basket, already
+alluded to on page 234, is an indispensable article. It should
+be quite large and roomy, say fifteen inches in depth and ten by
+twelve inches in its other dimensions. The material should be canvas,
+rubber cloth, or wicker, and, in any case, the opening at the top
+should have a water-proof covering extending well over the sides.
+The straps may consist of old suspender bands, fastened crosswise
+on the broad side of the bag. The capacity of such a knapsack is
+surprising, and the actual weight of luggage seems half reduced
+when thus carried on the shoulders. When three or four trappers
+start together, which is the usual custom, and each is provided
+with such a shoulder basket, the luggage can be thus divided, and
+the load for each individual much lightened.
+
+[Page 237]
+Venison is the trapper's favorite food, and in mild weather it
+sometimes happens that the overplus of meat becomes tainted before
+it can be eaten. To overcome this difficulty the following process
+is resorted to, for the preservation of the meat, and the result
+is the well-known and high-priced "jerked venison" of our markets.
+The flesh is first cut into small, thin strips, all the meat being
+picked off from the bones. The pieces are then placed on the inside
+of the hide of the animal and thoroughly mixed with salt, a pint
+and a half being generally sufficient. The salt being well worked
+in, the fragments should be carefully wrapped in the hide, and
+suffered to remain in this condition for two or three hours. The
+meat is then ready to be dried,--"jerked."
+
+Four forked poles should be first driven into the ground, about
+six feet apart, in the form of a square, the forks being four feet
+above ground. Lay two poles of green wood across the forks on the
+two opposite sides of the square, and cover the space between them
+by other poles laid across them, an inch or two inches apart. On
+to this mammoth gridiron the strips of flesh should now be spread,
+and a steady fire of birch or other clean, fresh wood should be
+kept steadily burning beneath for about twenty-four hours. At the
+end of this time the meat will have reduced much in size and weight.
+The salt will have been thoroughly _dried in_, and the flesh so
+prepared maybe kept for almost any length of time. In its present
+condition it is excellent eating, and it is always at hand for
+frying, and may be cooked in a variety of ways. Moose and bear meat
+may be dried in a similar manner, using a proportionate amount of
+salt. Fish may also be prepared in the same way, for which purpose
+they should be scaled as usual and afterward spread open by cutting
+down the back, the bone being removed. We cordially recommend this
+method of preparing both flesh and fish, and no trapper's "recipe
+book" is complete without it.
+
+In localities where wolves abound, the nocturnal invasions of these
+creatures often render the keeping of fresh meat a very difficult
+task, and in this connection it may be well to give directions
+for the preservation of game desired to be used either as fresh
+meat or for purposes of drying.
+
+The spring-pole is most commonly and successfully used.
+
+Select some stout sapling, bend it down, and cut off a limb several
+feet from the ground. Hang the meat in the crotch thus formed, and
+allow the tree to swing back. By dividing the meat into several
+parts it may thus all be protected. When
+[Page 238]
+a moose or deer is killed at such a time or place, or under such
+circumstances as render its immediate dressing impossible, its
+carcass may be defended against mutilation by another means. Wolves
+are naturally sly and sagacious, and have a wholesome fear of a
+trap. Any unnatural arrangement of logs and stones immediately
+excites their suspicion, and the trapper takes advantage of this
+wary peculiarity to good purpose. Laying his dead game near some
+fallen tree or old log he strews a few branches over the carcass,
+or perhaps rests a log over it. Sometimes he hangs the entrails of
+the animal over the body, on a forked stick, anyone of which devices
+is said to have the desired result. The wolverine is another pest to
+the trapper, and not being so sly as the wolf, never hesitates to
+pounce upon any flesh within its reach. The former method, therefore,
+is always the safest plan for absolute protection against all animals.
+
+The moose and deer are the favorite food of trappers in the country
+where these animals abound, and the trappers of the Far West find
+in the flesh of the Moufflon, or Rocky Mountain sheep, a delicacy
+which they consider superior to the finest venison. The prong-horn
+antelope of the Western plains is another favorite food-animal
+with hunters, and the various "small game," such as squirrels,
+rabbits, woodchucks, etc., are by no means to be despised. The
+author once knew a trapper who was loud in his praises of "skunk
+meat" for food, and many hunters can testify to its agreeable flavor
+when properly dressed and cooked. It is hard, to be sure, to getup
+much enthusiasm over a skunk, dead or alive, but where other food
+is not to be had we would discourage the young trapper from being
+too fastidious.
+
+The buffalo, or bison, is the great resource of the trappers of the
+West. The tongue, tenderloin and brisket are generally preferred,
+but all the meat is eatable. The flesh of the cow is best. It much
+resembles beef, but has a more gamey flavor. In winged game there
+is no food superior to the flesh of the grouse, and the great number
+of the species and wide range of territory which they inhabit render
+them the universal food game of trappers throughout the world. The
+ruffed grouse or partridge, pinnated grouse or prairie hen, spruce
+or Canada grouse, and the cock-of-the-plains or sage cock, are
+familiar American examples of the family, and their near relatives,
+the ptarmigans, afford a valuable source of food to the trappers
+and hunters, as well as general inhabitants of our northern cold
+countries. Here they are known as "snow grouse," and there are
+[Page 239]
+several species. The willow ptarmigan is the most common, and in Rome
+localities exists in almost incredible numbers. Flocks numbering
+several thousand have been frequently seen by travellers in the
+Hudson's Bay territory; and the surface of the snow in a desirable
+feeding ground, is often completely covered by the birds, in quest
+of the willow tops, which form their chief food during the winter
+season. The Indians and natives secure the birds in large numbers,
+by the trap described on page 75, and Hearne, the traveller and
+explorer of the Hudson's Bay region, asserts that he has known over
+three hundred to be thus caught in a single morning, by three persons.
+
+Of water fowl, ducks and geese are especially to be recommended.
+The former are hunted with decoys and boats, and are sometimes
+trapped, as described on pages 94. The species are distinguished
+as sea ducks and river or inland ducks. The latter are considered
+the most desirable for food, being more delicate and less gamey in
+flavor than the salt-water, or fish-eating varieties. The mallard,
+teal, muscovy, widgeon, and wood-chuck are familiar species of the
+inland birds, and the merganser and canvass-back are the two most
+esteemed salt-water varieties. Wild geese are common throughout North
+America, and may be seen either in the early spring or late fall
+migrating in immense numbers. They form a staple article of food
+in many parts of British America, and great numbers are salted down
+for winter supply. They are trapped in large numbers, as described
+on page 75, and are hunted with tame geese as decoys, the hunter
+being secreted behind a screen or covert, and attracting the game
+by imitating their cries.
+
+Fish form an agreeable change to the trapper's diet, and may be
+caught by the hook and line, or by spearing. The latter method
+requires considerable practice and skill, but is very successful.
+The Indians of the North are great experts in the use of the spear,
+and the number of salmon taken by them annually is enormous. The
+spear generally consists of five or six steel prongs an inch apart
+and barbed at the ends. It is mounted on a heavy handle, and when it
+strikes its victim its grip is sure death. The spearing is generally
+performed either at the spawning beds or at the falls.
+
+Salmon trout are generally speared in the night time by boat, the
+spawning ground, generally a gravel bank near the shore, being
+the seat of operations. A fire of pitch pine and birch bark is
+ignited on an elevated "jack" in the bow of the boat, the "jack"
+consisting of an ox-muzzle, or other concave wire contrivance
+[Page 240]
+which will hold the inflammable materials. This is secured to a
+post or crotched stick, as a prop, and the spearman stands near
+the burning mass with his spear in readiness. As his companion in
+the stern of the boat paddles, he keenly watches for his victim,
+and, seeing his opportunity, makes his lunge and lands his prize.
+To become a successful spearman requires much practice and no small
+degree of skill. To retain one's balance, acquire quickness of stroke,
+and withal to regulate the aim so as to allow for the refraction of
+the light in the water, all tend to invest the sport with a degree
+of skill which only experience can master.
+
+Fishing through the ice in winter is a rare sport, and large numbers
+of brook and lake trout are often taken at this season by cutting
+holes through the ice and fishing with hook and line. The baits
+commonly used consist of cow's udder or hog's liver, these being
+especially preferred on account of their toughness. Angle worms
+are also excellent, and any kind of raw meat may be used if other
+bait is not to be had.
+
+It is asserted by some sportsmen that bait scented with assafoetida
+is much more attractive to the fish, and will insure a capture
+which would otherwise be impossible. Sweet cicily and anise are
+also used for the same purpose. When the trout bite lively, fishing
+through the ice is a most exciting sport, and by the aid of "tip-ups"
+a single person may command a great number of lines. The winter
+resort of the brook trout is in water two or three feet deep, over
+sandy beds. The lake trout frequent deeper water.
+
+The holes are made in the ice at intervals of one or two rods, and
+a line set in each hole.
+
+The "tip-up" consists of a narrow strip of lath or shingle, with
+a hole bored through it near the large end. At this end the line
+is attached, and the hook thrown in the water. A branch is now
+inserted through the aperture, and its ends are rested across the
+opening in the ice. No sooner does the fish bite than the long
+end tips straight in the air, and thus betrays its captive. Ten
+or fifteen of these contrivances will often keep one pretty busy,
+and do good service. By some an ordinary cut fish pole, arranged on
+a crotch, is used instead of the tip-ups just described. Pickerel
+fishing through the ice is a favorite winter sport in many localities.
+The line should be about thirty feet in length, and the bait should
+consist of a small, live fish, hooked through the back. A small cork
+float should be attached to the line at such a distance as will keep
+[Page 241]
+the bait above the bottom, and the superfluous line should be laid
+in a loose coil near the hole, the end being attached to a small
+switch or bush, stuck up in the ice near by. The pickerel, on taking
+the bait, should be allowed to play out the whole line before being
+pulled in, as the fish requires this time to fully swallow his
+prey, after which the hook is sure to hold him firmly. Twenty or
+thirty lines may thus be attended at once, the bush or twig acting
+the part of a tip-up, or sentinel.
+
+Pickerel spearing is another successful mode of capture during
+the winter months. A large hole is made in the ice, in about two
+feet of water, and covered by a spacious box or board hut, six or
+seven feet square, and provided with a door. The spearman, concealed
+within, lowers his bait, consisting of an artificial fish with
+silver fins, made especially for the purpose. This he continually
+twirls in the water, and as the pickerel approaches the bait, he
+gradually raises it, until the fish is decoyed nearly to the surface
+of the water, when a quick stroke of the spear secures his victim,
+and the line is again lowered. This is capital sport, and is very
+successful.
+
+There is a very curious device for fishing by night commonly employed
+by some anglers, and sometimes known as the "lantern, or fish trap."
+Many kinds of fish are attracted by a light, but to use a light
+as a bait, submerged beneath the water, certainly seems odd. It
+may be done, however, in the following way: The "fish lantern"
+used for this purpose consists of a bottle containing a solution
+of phosphorus in sweet oil. Procure a piece of the stick phosphorus
+the size of a small cherry, and submerging in a saucer of water,
+proceed to cut it into small pieces. Have in readiness a three-ounce
+white glass bottle half filled with sweet oil. Drop the pieces of
+phosphorus into the oil and cork the bottle tightly. In the space
+of a few hours the phosphorus will have been completely dissolved,
+and the contents of the bottle will present a thick, luminous fluid,
+which in a dark room, will afford considerable light. This is the
+fish lantern. To use it, the cork is firmly inserted and the bottle,
+with fish line attached, is lowered through the hole in the ice.
+The water becomes luminous for several feet around, and the unusual
+brightness attracts the fish in large numbers. They are plainly,
+discernible, and are readily dispatched with the spear, or captured
+by a circular net, sunk on the bottom, beneath the luminous bait.
+This is certainly an odd way of catching fish, but it is often
+a very efficacious method.
+
+It has not been our intention to enter very extensively into
+[Page 242]
+the subject of fishing, but only to give such hints as will be
+found especially useful and practical to the trapper in relation
+to his food. The above methods, together with those of trolling
+and fly-fishing, are those most commonly employed by trappers and
+hunters generally, and we commend them to the amateur.
+
+We give, on page 120, a unique device for the capture of fish, which
+might also be found useful.
+
+With the above general remarks on the campaign, together with what
+follows in the detailed articles on the subject, we think that the
+ground will have been completely covered. Every possible requirement
+has been anticipated, and every ordinary emergency foreseen and
+provided against.
+
+
+THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.
+
+The life of the professional trapper is a life of hardship and
+severe exposure, and a man not only requires considerable courage,
+but also great bodily vigor, in order to combat successfully the
+dangers of such a wild, adventuresome existence.
+
+The cold and the storm not only imperil his life, but he is often
+exposed to the attacks of wild beasts. A shelter, therefore, in one
+form or another, becomes a necessity while it is always a decided
+comfort, in comparison to a campaign without it.
+
+The reader will find below descriptions of the various shelters
+alluded to in other parts of this work, and used by trappers throughout
+the land.
+
+The most substantial of these is the log shanty, commonly known among
+trappers as the "home shanty," on account of its being constructed
+as the only permanent shelter on the trapping line.
+
+It is used as a "home," a place of rendezvous, and a storehouse
+for provisions, furs, and other necessities and valuables. Other
+temporary shelters, known as bark shanties, are also constructed
+along the trapping lines at intervals of five or ten miles, as
+resting places. These we describe under the proper title.
+
+Although, to the amateur trapper, the log shanty is not likely
+to become a necessity, we will nevertheless describe its mode of
+construction, in order to satisfy our more earnest and adventurous
+readers, who aspire to a full taste of wild life.
+
+Our illustration gives a very clear idea of such a shanty.
+
+[Page 243]
+[Illustration: THE HOME SHANTY.]
+
+[Page 244]
+It may be constructed of any size, but one of about twelve by ten
+feet will be found large enough for ordinary purposes. Select straight
+logs, about eight inches in diameter. The whole number required
+will be thirty-six. Of these one-half should be twelve feet in
+length and the other ten. These should now be built up in the square
+form, on a level piece of ground, laying the ends of the logs over
+each other, and securing them by notches at the corners, so deep as
+to allow the edges of the logs to meet. Lay two short logs first,
+and continue building until all the thirty-six logs are used, and
+we will now have four symmetrical sides about six feet in height.
+The place for the door should now be selected. The uppermost log
+should form its upper outline, and the two sides should be cleanly
+and straightly cut with a crosscut saw. The window openings, one or
+more, may next be cut, commencing beneath the second log from the
+top, and taking in three beneath it. Replace the logs above, and
+on the ends of those thus cut, both in windows and doors, proceed
+to spike a heavy plank, driving two nails into each log, about
+five inches apart, one above the other. This will hold them firmly
+in place, and offer a close-fitting jam for the door, and neat
+receptacle for the window sashes, which latter may now be put in
+after the ordinary manner.
+
+The gable ends should next be built upon the smaller sides of the
+hut. Commence by laying a long log (notched as before) across the
+top of the frame work, and about two feet inside the edge. This
+should of course be done on both sides of the hut, after which
+they should be overlapped at the corners with logs eight feet in
+length. Next lay two more long logs, parallel with the first two,
+and about a foot inside them, notching as before. The ends of these
+should be spanned with beams eight feet in length. Two more long
+logs are next in order--let them be one foot inside the last two.
+Overlap these with beams five feet and a half in length, and in
+the exact centre of these last pieces chop notches for a heavy
+log for a ridge pole. The gable outline, direct from the ridge
+pole to the eaves, should now be cut off by the aid of a sharp
+axe. This may be done either while the pieces are in position, or
+the line may be marked with a piece of chalk, and the logs taken
+down in order to accomplish it. The roof is now required. This
+should consist either of strips of bark or the rounded sides of
+logs split off and hollowed into troughs. The latter method is
+preferable, on account of its greater strength and durability,
+but the bark will answer the purpose very well, and is much more
+easily obtained. The manner of adjusting the roof pieces is clearly
+[Page 245]
+shown in our illustration. The first row is laid on with the hollow
+side up, securing them at top and bottom by nails driven through each
+into the ridge pole and eaves-log, care being taken that one of these
+pieces projects well over the gable, on both ends of the hut. These
+pieces are now overlapped by the second row, and with the addition
+of the large piece which covers them all at the ridge pole, the
+roof is complete, and will stand a heavy ram with little or no
+leaking. The crevices should now be stopped with moss, dried grass
+or clay, after which the log cabin is complete. When the bark roof
+is made, additional poles may be inserted beneath as props. They
+should be three or four inches in diameter, and run parallel with
+the ridge pole, at intervals on the slope, notches being cut to
+secure them.
+
+Our engraving represents a chimney, which may be constructed if
+desired, but the necessity of this may be done away with by using
+a small camp stove, and making a small opening in the gable end
+of the hut for the passage of the pipe. If it stove should not
+be at hand, and our amateur should decide to "rough it" to the
+full extent, he may build his fire-place and chimney as follows:
+It will be necessary to cut away an opening in the logs at the
+gable end, as was done for the door and windows. This should be
+about three feet square, and the fire place should be built of
+stone and clay, or cement, to fill the opening, and project inside
+the hut.
+
+The chimney may then be built up outside in the same manner,
+sufficiently high to overtop the gables.
+
+Inside the hut overhead will be found abundant room for the hanging
+of the skins, and any number of cross-poles may be rested across
+the beams. There are facilities for the swinging of a hammock,
+if desired, and, in fact, a hut constructed like the foregoing
+is a perfect one in its way. There are other methods of building
+a log cabin, but we will content ourselves with what we consider
+the _best_ way of all, and pass on to the
+
+
+BARK SHANTY.
+
+This is made by first driving into the ground two forked poles
+seven or eight feet in height and stout enough to sustain a ridge
+pole of moderate size. Against this ridge pole other poles should
+be rested at intervals of two feet, and sloping to the angle of
+forty-five degrees. The frame-work thus formed should now be covered
+with bark, commencing at the ground and allowing the edge of each
+piece to overlap the one beneath
+[Page 246]
+after the manner of shingles, in order to shed the rain in case
+of storm. Spruce or birch bark are excellent for this purpose,
+and the pieces may be secured with nails, and kept flat by the
+weight of another series of poles rested against them. The sides
+of the shelter should be treated similarly, the front being usually
+left open to face the fire, which the trapper generally builds a
+few feet distant. In constructing a bark shanty, it is well to
+select some spot protected from the wind, close to the foot of a
+mountain or in the midst of trees, always letting the open side
+face the direction most sheltered.
+
+If desired, the front can be enclosed after the manner of the sides
+and top, but this is not required where the fire is used.
+
+This style of shelter is represented in our page title to this section,
+and certainly looks very comfortable.
+
+
+TENTS.
+
+Shanties like the foregoing are in general use among the old veteran
+trappers of all countries, and even to the amateur there is a charm
+in a shelter constructed from the rude materials of the woods which
+the portable tents do not possess.
+
+Tents, however, are much used both by professionals and amateurs,
+and are indeed valuable acquisitions to the trapper's outfit, and
+where time is valuable, do away with the labor which the construction
+of a hut or shanty involves.
+
+Tents are of several kinds. Those most commonly used by the trapper
+are the house-tent, fly-tent, and half-tent, or shelter-tent.
+
+The first of these is made for prop-poles and a ridge pole, closed
+on one end and buttoning up at the other. The sides are perpendicular
+for two or three feet, before the slope commences, and the stay-ropes
+are fastened to the eaves.
+
+The fly-tent is generally a large, square piece of canvas, with
+ropes extending from opposite sides. This is thrown over a ridge
+pole, or over a rope extending between two trees, and the sides
+are held to the proper slope by tightening and pegging the side
+ropes to the ground. Fly-tents are also made with ends, which can
+be lowered, and the whole tent may be pegged close to the ground.
+
+The shelter-tent, when erected, resembles, in general shape, the
+bark shanty already described. It consists of a strip of canvas,
+having each end cut off to a point. The tent is pitched over three
+slanting poles, and the ends are brought down and securely pegged.
+This is clearly shown in our illustration.
+
+[Page 247]
+[Illustration]
+
+We do not propose giving any extended directions for making tents,
+as they are a staple article of trade, and, as a general thing, can
+be bought for a figure which would render their domestic manufacture
+of little saving or profit. The shelter-tent, however, is so useful
+an affair, and withal so very simple made, that we will give a few
+directions in regard to its manufacture. It should be made from
+stout _cotton drilling_, or very heavy sheeting. Let the piece
+be about thirteen feet in length by six in width. Each end of the
+piece should now be cut to a rectangular point, commencing to cut
+at a distance of three feet from each corner. In order to render
+the cloth waterproof, it should now be dipped in a pail containing
+a solution of equal parts of alum and sugar of lead, a couple of
+handfuls of each, in tepid water. It should be allowed to remain
+several minutes in soak, being dipped and turned occasionally,
+after which it should be spread out to dry. This treatment not
+only renders the cloth impervious to rain, but the alum tends to
+make it fire-proof also. A spark from the fire falling upon a tent
+thus prepared, will often rest upon the cloth until it goes out,
+without doing the slightest damage.
+
+[Page 248]
+The manner of pitching the tent has already been alluded to, and
+is clear from our illustration. The poles should be three or four
+in number, and seven feet in length, inserted in the ground at the
+angle denoted. The two outside poles should be seven feet apart,
+and the intermediate ones equally disposed. The tent piece should
+now be laid over the poles, and the ends brought down and pegged
+to the ground at the apex, and rear corners of each side through
+loops, which should have been previously attached to these parts.
+A tent, thus arranged, affords a safe shelter from the wind or
+a moderate storm, and with a bright fire in front, is warm and
+comfortable.
+
+
+BEDS AND BEDDING.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Many a trapper does away with these commodities, merely rolling
+himself in a blanket and using his arm for a pillow; but we do
+not propose to encourage or recommend any such half-way comfort as
+this, when by a very little labor a portable bed can be prepared
+on which the weary hunter can rest as serenely as if slumbering
+on the congenial softness of a hair mattress. A bed of this kind
+we illustrate, and it can be made in the following manner: Procure
+a large piece of canvas, sacking or other strong, coarse material
+six and a half feet square. If a single piece of this size cannot
+be found, several parts may he sewed together to the required
+dimensions. After which two opposite sides should be firmly stitched
+[Page 249]
+together, thus forming a bottomless bag, if we may be allowed to use
+the expression. Two stout poles seven or eight feet in length and as
+large as the wrist should now be cut. Insert them through the bag,
+allowing the ends to project equally on each side. These ends should
+now be rested on two logs, one placed across each end of the canvas.
+In order to hold the poles in place notches should be cut in the logs
+at such distances as will draw the bag to its full width. The interior
+of the canvas should now be filled with dried grass, leaves, moss
+or spruce boughs, after which the bedstead and bed is complete.
+
+The yielding elasticity of the poles and the softness of the warm
+filling in the bag, give the effect of a spring and straw mattress
+combined, lifting the sleeper above the cold, damp ground, and by
+the addition of a blanket above, insuring warmth on all sides. If
+the logs are not at hand four forked stakes may be used, driving
+them firmly into the ground at such distances as will draw the
+bag to its full width, when the poles are rested upon them. If
+by the weight of the body the forked props should tend to incline
+towards each other this trouble may be easily remedied by inserting
+short poles as braces between them. If desired a bed of this kind
+may be used as a hammock and hung in a tree without much trouble.
+It is only necessary to secure the long poles firmly at their full
+width by a stout brace pole at the ends, letting the latter be
+deeply notched at the tips in order to receive the bed supports.
+The joints should then be tightly bound with stout twine in order
+to prevent slipping, after which the bed may be hung in mid-air
+by ropes at each end, and the tired trapper may swing himself to
+sleep with perfect comfort and safety. For this purpose the ropes
+should be attached at the joints, using a loop of six feet for
+each end. In the centre of this loop a small one should be made
+by doubling the rope and winding twine about it, leaving only a
+small aperture. Through these small loops, by the aid of other
+ropes, the bed is attached to the tree. By using this precaution
+the unpleasant experience of being turned or dumped out of bed
+will be impossible. For bed clothes a woollen blanket should always
+be carried, and if convenient a large bag of thick Canton flannel
+is a most excellent acquisition.
+
+Bags of this sort are in common use among amateur trappers, hunters
+and camping parties, and are very warm and comfortable. They should
+be nearly seven feet in length and of a "loose, easy fit." With
+one of these contrivances it is impossible to "kick the clothes
+off" and the warmth is continual instead
+[Page 250]
+of "intermittent," and even on the bare ground it is said to be
+sufficient protection. Hammocks are also in very general use, but
+we can confidently recommend the suspended bed above described
+as decidedly preferable.
+
+There are various kinds of hammocks in the market, from the light
+fibered silk, weighing only a few ounces, to the large corded variety
+of several pounds weight and capable of holding many persons. They
+are an established article of trade, and as the details of their
+manufacture would be of little practical use to the reader, we
+will leave them without further consideration. They can be had at
+almost any sporting emporium, at comparatively small cost.
+
+
+TENT CARPETING.
+
+We have described a most excellent contrivance for a bedstead and
+recommend its use whenever possible; but when the bed is desired
+to be made on the ground the following method is usually employed,
+by which the whole interior of the tent, hut or shanty is carpeted
+with a soft, even covering of green.
+
+Spruce or hemlock boughs are generally used, and should be from
+the tips of the branches where the wood is not too large. Commence
+at the back part of the shelter, and lay down a row of the boughs
+with the butt of the branch towards the front. Overlap these with
+another nearer row and continue the operation, laying the evergreen
+as evenly as possible until the whole interior is smoothly covered.
+The projecting ends at the front, should now be secured by the
+weight of a medium sized log, or by a pole pegged down firmly at
+intervals. A similar log should now be laid at the back portion
+of the shelter over the tips of the boughs after which the bed
+is complete, and will be found easy and comfortable in proportion
+to the care and skill shown in its construction. A blanket should
+be thrown over the boughs before reclining to rest, as the fresh
+green gives forth considerable dampness.
+
+If possible a rubber blanket should be used for this purpose. These
+consist of thick Canton flannel, coated on one side with Indian
+rubber, and are used with the rubber side down. They are warm and
+comfortable, and a valuable acquisition to the trapper's outfit.
+There is a thinner and cheaper variety, having equal water-proof
+qualities but which does not possess the warmth of the former.
+Either will be found useful.
+
+So much for beds and bedding. If the reader will now turn
+[Page 251]
+his attention to the following section, "The Trapper's Miscellany,"
+he will find much in detail of what has only been alluded to in the
+present chapter, besides other hints of great value in reference
+to a trapping campaign.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 253]
+[Illustration: THE TRAPPERS' MISCELLANY]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 255]
+BOOK VIII.
+
+THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.
+
+[Illustration: O]ur enthusiastic novice, as he starts out into the
+wilderness, should not be unmindful of the swarms of blood-thirsty
+flies, gnats and mosquitoes, which infest the woods in the summer
+and early autumn, and are there lying in wait for him. These often
+become a source of great annoyance to the woodsman, and more often
+a source of positive bodily suffering.
+
+Although trapping is not generally carried on during this season,
+the preparations for the coming campaign, including the building
+of shanties, transporting of traps, etc., are generally made at
+this time, and unless some preventive is used, the persecutions of
+the mosquitoes and other winged vermin, become almost unbearable.
+
+
+INSECT OINTMENTS.
+
+These insects seem to have a special aversion for the scent of
+pennyroyal--an herb growing commonly in sandy localities--and a
+single plant rubbed upon the face and hands will often greatly
+check their attacks.
+
+The oil of pennyroyal is better, however, and an ointment made by
+straining one ounce of the oil into two or three ounces of pure
+melted lard, or mutton tallow, forms an excellent antidote. This
+may be carried in a little box or bottle, in the pocket, and applied
+as occasion requires. Plain mutton tallow is also a most excellent
+ointment for general use, and in the case of bruises or slight
+wounds, will give great relief.
+
+Another preparation in very common use amongst hunters and woodsmen,
+although not quite as agreeable in odor, consists of a mixture of
+common tar and sweet oil, in equal parts. By some this liniment
+is considered superior to the other, inasmuch as it also prevents
+tanning, and is beneficial to the complexion.
+
+[Page 256]
+During the night time, the tent or shanty often becomes swarmed
+with the winged pests, and their nocturnal assaults are proverbial
+for their pertinacity and severity. Their thirst for blood overcomes
+every other instinct, and pennyroyal often ceases to have any effect.
+Our Adirondack guide, in narrating his experience with these insect
+vampires, even says that on a certain night, becoming exasperated at
+their indomitable perseverance, and, getting tired of the monotonous
+occupation of spreading ointment, he arose, lit his candle, and drove
+the creatures out of the tent. He then buttoned up the opening, and
+retired to rest. A storm came up in the night, and so completely
+had his canvas been riddled by the bills of the mosquitoes, that
+the rain poured through his tent as through a sieve.
+
+We have heard of the man who, when pursued by hungry mosquitoes,
+took refuge beneath a large chaldron, and, by the aid of a stone,
+clinched the blood-thirsty bills as they protruded in quest of his
+life-blood, until, by the united efforts of the winged captives,
+the chaldron was lifted and wafted out of sight, as if it were a
+feather.
+
+One story is just as true as the other, and a summer in the Adirondack
+woods will tend to strengthen, rather than diminish, the belief in
+either.
+
+The smoke of smouldering birch bark will effectually drive away
+the mosquitoes from the tents at night. This method is commonly
+known as "the smudge," and is more fully described in another part
+of this work.
+
+The smell of the smoke is often unpleasant at first, but it is always
+preferable to the insect bites.
+
+Mosquitoes are not the only vampires which infest our wooded lands.
+The "punkeys" and "midgets" can outstrip them for voracity and the
+painful character of the wound which they inflict. The "punkey,"
+or "black-fly," as it is called, is a small, black gnat, about the
+size of a garden ant, and the bite of the insect often results
+very seriously. The midget is a minute little creature, and is the
+most everlastingly sticky and exasperating pest in the catalogue
+of human torments. They fly in swarms of thousands, and go for their
+victim "en masse" and the face, hands and neck are soon covered as
+if with "hay seed." They stick where they first light, and commence
+operations immediately. All endeavors to shake them off are fruitless,
+and their combined attacks are soon most painfully realized. Their
+bites produce great redness and swelling, and the itching is most
+intolerable. Happily for the woodsman, the "smudge"
+[Page 257]
+and pennyroyal ointment are effectual preventives against the attacks
+of both midgets and black flies, as well as mosquitoes; and no one
+who values his life or good looks should venture on a woodland
+excursion in the summer months without a supply of this latter
+commodity. In conclusion, we would remark that, to the mosquito
+the blood of the intemperate seems to have a special attraction,
+and anyone who wishes to enjoy comparative freedom from the attacks
+of these pests, should abstain from the use of alcoholic stimulants.
+It is a too prevalent idea among trappers that whiskey and rum are
+necessary adjuncts to a trapping campaign, and many a trapper would
+about as soon think of leaving his traps at home as his whisky bottle.
+This is all a mistake. Anyone who has not sufficient strength of
+constitution to withstand the hardships and exposures of a trapping
+life, without the especial aid of stimulants, should stay at home.
+We are now alluding to the _habitual_ use of such stimulants. It
+is always well to be provided with a flask of whisky or brandy,
+in case of illness, but it should only be resorted to in such an
+event. For a mere chill, we recommend the use of red pepper tea. A
+simple swallow of this drink, (made simply by soaking a red pepper
+in a cup of hot water) will restore warmth much quicker than three
+times the amount of any alcoholic stimulant. It is not our purpose to
+extend into a lengthened temperance lecture, but only to discourage
+the wide-spread idea that _stimulants_ are _necessities_ in the
+life of the trapper. Midgets, musquitoes and punkeys delight over
+a victim with alcohol in his veins, and while to a healthy subject
+the bites are of only brief annoyance, to the intemperate they
+often result in painful, obstinate sores.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In addition to the various ointments used, it is well to be provided
+with a head-net, such as we illustrate. Nets of this kind are specially
+made for sportsmen, and consist of a spiral wire framework, covered
+with mosquito netting, and of such a size to slip easily on the
+head.
+
+[Page 258]
+They are easily made, as our engraving would indicate.
+
+A netting attachment for the hat is also an acquisition, especially
+in open woods, free from overhanging branches or dense thickets.
+Such a netting may be secured to the edge of the hat brim, and
+gathered with an elastic at the lower edge. This elastic will close
+snugly around the neck when in use, and at other times may be drawn
+above the brim and allowed to rest on top of the crown.
+
+The portable hat brim, which we illustrate, is an article of trade
+in common use among sportsmen, and particularly the angler. Our
+engraving (_a_) shows the article separate. It is made of cloth,
+and is kept in its circular shape by a steel spring band at the
+circumference, between the two sides. It may be attached to any
+hat, and will act as a most effectual shelter to the rays of a
+hot sun.
+
+[Illustration: a]
+
+The netting above alluded to may be attached to such a brim, and
+applied to the edge of the hat when desired. This is shown at (_b_),
+which also indicates the manner of adjustment of the brim. Such a
+brim will often do good service, and may be obtained at almost any
+sporting emporium at trifling cost. It is portable in every sense
+of the word, being easily bent and packed away in the pocket.
+
+[Illustration: b]
+
+
+[Page 259]
+BOAT BUILDING.
+
+Where trapping is carried on along the banks of the lakes and rivers,
+a boat of some kind becomes almost a positive necessity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The following examples represent those in most general use. Perhaps
+the most common form of the "rough and ready" order of boats, is
+that called the--
+
+"DUG-OUT," OR LOG CANOE.
+
+It's general appearance is well indicated by the accompanying
+illustration. With the proper tools, one of these canoes is easily
+made. A sharp axe, an adze, a shaving knife, a round edged adze,
+and a small auger, are principally necessary; and a cross-cut saw,
+broad-axe, sledge, and large sized chisel, will also be found useful.
+
+In any case the log should not be much less than two feet in diameter,
+perfectly sound, and free from knots. If this precaution is observed,
+the result will be all the more satisfactory, and the canoe can be
+cut so thin, as to render it a light burden; being easily carried
+on the shoulders.
+
+A pine log is generally chosen for a dug-out, on account of the
+lightness of the wood, and the ease with which it can be worked.
+Butternut, cottonwood and whitewood, are also excellent, and indeed
+almost any sound log of large size will answer the purpose.
+
+For a dug-out of good size, the log should be ten or more feet
+in length. The first thing to be done is to cut a flat surface on
+one side of the log, from end to end. This indicates the bottom
+of the canoe. On the upper side the wood should be hewn away, in
+the curve shown on the upper outline of our illustration.
+
+[Page 260]
+It is well to divide the log by notches into three equal lengths.
+In the centre division, the wood may be cut down to a straight
+line to a depth of about eight inches from the upper surface. The
+gradual curve to the bow and stern of the canoe should start from
+each end of this flat cut, and extend to the upper edge of the log,
+the guiding line being made on the sides of the log by a piece of
+chalk. The adze will come into good use in trimming off the wood on
+these curves. When this upper outline is accomplished, the log may
+be turned bottom side up, and the sides of the extremities rounded
+off. This may be done with an axe and adze, and when performed,
+the bottom curves should be made by chopping away the wood in the
+curves shown in the lower outline of our illustration. This curve
+should also be marked out with chalk, and should commence a little
+nearer the end of the log than the curve on the upper side. Shave
+off the wood to a blunt edge on this curve, at both bow and stern.
+The rough form of the canoe is now obtained, and by the aid of
+the draw-knife, or shaving-knife, it can be neatly and smoothly
+finished.
+
+It is then ready to be "dug-out." The tools most useful for this
+purpose are the adze and axe, and sometimes the sledge and chisel.
+The digging out is of course the most tedious part; but with sharp
+tools it is a comparatively easy matter. When the great bulk of the
+wood is taken out, the interior should be finished with a howel
+or round adze; and the sides may be worked to one inch and a half
+in thickness if desired. The writer once saw one of these canoes
+of most exquisite workmanship, being only one inch in thickness,
+and so light as to be easily lifted with one hand. Of course such
+perfection as this is not necessary for ordinary purposes; although
+where the canoe is expected to be carried any great distance, it
+is well to thin it as much as possible. A gimlet or small auger
+may be used to gauge the thickness of the canoe, using it in the
+following manner: Supposing the required thickness of the wood
+is two inches, proceed to bore the hole from the inside of the
+canoe, and continue until the point of the gimlet or auger barely
+makes its appearance on the outside. Draw out the tool, and if the
+thickness measures more than is required, insert into the hole
+a slender piece of wood exactly two inches in length; push it in
+as far as it will go, and you may safely work until you reach the
+end of it. By this method the thickness may be gauged in different
+parts of the boat sufficiently to acquire a fair average thickness,
+[Page 261]
+and there is no danger of cutting through. The gimlet should be
+allowed to extend outside of the canoe only sufficiently to be
+detected, and the holes thus made will seldom give any trouble as
+leaks. If, however, this should be the case, a little putty or pitch
+will remedy the difficulty.
+
+The "dug-out" may be constructed of any size, and of any desired
+shape, but the above is the usual type.
+
+When leaks or cracks occur, they may be caulked with hemp, and
+smeared with pitch, which will render them thoroughly waterproof.
+
+For lightness and portability there is no boat more desirable or
+more unique than--
+
+
+THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE.
+
+Where the white birch grows in perfection, and the trees attain
+a large size, the chief material of the birch bark canoe is at
+hand; and although we ordinary mortals could not be expected to
+attain to that perfection of skill which the Indians exhibit in
+the manufacture of these canoes, we nevertheless can succeed
+sufficiently well to answer all practical purposes. The Indian
+canoes are often perfect marvels of skill and combined strength and
+lightness. These half-civilized beings seem to take as naturally to
+the making of these commodities, as if it were almost an hereditary
+habit with them; and few men, even with the most exhaustive practice,
+can compete with the Indian in the combined result of strength,
+lightness, durability, external beauty, and nicety of work, which
+are the united characteristics of the typical bark canoe.
+
+The average length of the "Bark," as used by trappers, is about
+twelve feet, but they may be constructed of any desired dimensions,
+to the length of forty feet. A canoe of this size will carry fifteen
+or twenty persons, and may be transported with ease upon the shoulders
+of two strong men. The smaller size, above mentioned, is capable
+of carrying two persons, and is a light load for a single man.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In constructing the bark canoe the first requisite is the gunwale,
+or upper framework. This should consist of four strips of cedar,
+ash, or other light, strong wood; two for each side of the boat.
+For an ordinary sized canoe, their length should be about twelve
+feet, width one inch, and thickness one-quarter of an inch. They
+should be tied together in pairs at the ends, and the two pairs
+then joined at the same place. The object of
+[Page 262]
+these pieces is to give strength and form to the canoe, and to
+offer a firm security for the edges of the bark, which are secured
+between them. The gunwale being prepared, we are now ready for
+the birch bark. The bottom of a well made canoe should be in one
+large piece, as our illustration indicates, if possible. Select
+some large tree with the trunk free from knots or excrescences.
+Mark off as great a length as possible, and chop a straight cut
+in the bark through the whole length of the piece, after which
+it should be carefully peeled from the wood. It will sometimes
+happen, where large birches exist in perfection, that a single
+piece may be found of sufficient size for a whole canoe, but this
+is rather exceptional, and the bottom is generally pieced out,
+as seen in our drawing. This piecing may be accomplished with an
+awl and Indian twine, or by the aid of a large needle threaded
+with the same, sewing with an over-and-over stitch around the edge
+of each piece. Use as large pieces as are attainable, and continue
+to sew them on until the arca of bark measures about four and a
+half feet in width by twelve feet in length, the dark colored sides
+of the bark all facing the same way. Next select a fiat piece of
+ground, and mark off a distance of ten feet, or two feet less than
+the length of the gunwales. At each end of the space two tall stakes
+should be driven into the ground about three inches apart. Now
+turn the bark on the ground with its white side uppermost, and
+fold it loosely and evenly through the long centre. In this folded
+condition it should now be lifted by the upper edge and set between
+the stakes. There will then be about a foot of projecting bark
+beyond each pair of stakes. These ends should now be covered by
+folding another piece of bark over them, sewing the edges firmly
+to the sides of the rude form of the canoe, which now presents
+itself. When this is done, each end should be supported on a log
+or stone; this will cause the bottom line to sink downwards at
+about the proper curve. We are now ready for the gunwale. Lay it
+in the proper position, fitting the edges of the bark between the
+two strips on each side, and sewing around the whole with a winding
+stitch, exactly after the manner of the edge of an ordinary palm-leaf
+fan. The inside of the canoe should now be lined with long strips
+of cedar running through the entire length of the boat if possible,
+but if not, should be so cut as to neatly overlap at the ends.
+These pieces should be an inch or two in width, and from a quarter
+to half an inch-in thickness. The ribs are then to be put in. These
+are generally made from ash, one or two inches in width, and
+[Page 263]
+a quarter of an inch in thickness. Any light flexible wood will
+answer the purpose, and even barrel hoops when attainable will do
+very well. These ribs should be bent to fit the interior of the
+canoe crosswise, either close together, or with equal distances
+between them and the ends should then be firmly secured beneath the
+gunwales by a continuous loop-stitch through the bark. For a canoe
+of twelve feet in length, the width should be about two feet, and in
+order to keep the gunwales firm, two or more cross-pieces should
+be inserted, and lashed firmly at their ends as our illustration
+shows. The centre third of the length of the canoe should be parallel
+at the sides, and if two braces, two feet in length are placed at
+each end of this third, the shape will be about perfect. We now
+have a bark canoe of considerable strength and durability, and
+it only awaits to be made water-proof for final use. In order to
+accomplish this all the seams outside, and the entire interior of
+the canoe should, be smeared with pitch, after which its floating
+qualities may be tested with confidence. Should any leaks occur their
+where-abouts are easily detected, and an additional application
+of pitch will remedy the difficulty. The Indians in sewing their
+bark canoes use tamarack roots, fibrous plants, and grasses, in
+lieu of thread, and even with these inferior materials often attain
+to such perfection in compact sewing, as to render the use of pitch
+unnecessary for water-proof purposes. Such skill is rarely attained
+by the white man, and the art of making a water-proof canoe, even
+out of a single piece of bark, is by no means an easy task without
+the aid of tar or pitch.
+
+[Page 264]
+For the trapper we strongly recommend the birch "bark." With the
+above directions we are sure no one could go astray, and we are
+equally sure that a canoe made as we describe, would present advantages
+of lightness and portability which no other style of boat would
+possess. For temporary purposes, canoes can be made from basswood,
+hemlock, or spruce bark; but they are at best, very rude and clumsy
+in comparison with the birch bark. They are generally made after
+the principles of the above described; either sewing or nailing
+the edges of the bark together, and smearing every joint and seam
+profusely with pitch, and adding gunwales, lining, and ribs.
+
+
+A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT.
+
+The following gives an easy method of making a light and serviceable
+bateau, which any boy, with moderate ingenuity or skill, could
+easily construct:--
+
+Select two boards, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness,
+eighteen or twenty inches in width, and twelve feet in length,
+which we will consider the required length of the boat. These boards
+should be well seasoned, and free from knots, and at least one of
+the sides should be straight.
+
+Next, with the aid of a draw-shave, proceed to shape the ends of
+one of the boards, as seen on our diagram, (_e_) representing the
+forward, (_g_) the stern. The curve of the bow should commence at
+about four feet from the end, and take a rounded slope upward,
+leaving about ten inches of width at the end of the board (_e_).
+The stern should be cut at the angle shown at (_g_), commencing
+at about two and a half feet from the extremity of the board and
+continuing upward to about ten inches from the upper edge. The
+board thus shaped should now be laid evenly on the other, and the
+outline of the cut portions carefully scratched upon it, after
+which the second board should be cut in a similar manner as the
+first, so as to form an exact duplicate.
+
+This being accomplished, the two should be laid evenly, one over
+the other, and the exact center of their long edges ascertained.
+Marking off about five inches on each side of this centre on both
+boards.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Next procure another board about ten inches in width, three feet
+in length, and perfectly squared at the ends. Nail each end of
+this piece securely and squarely in the space marked on each of
+the long boards. Then turn the pieces carefully over and
+[Page 265]
+nail another board across the bottom, directly opposite the first.
+We will now leave them and give our attention to the bow piece,
+which is the next requisite. This is shown at (_a_), and consists
+of a solid piece of oak, or other hard wood, well seasoned, and
+hewn out in the arrow shape, indicated in our illustration. It
+should first be cut three-cornered, the inside face being about
+eight inches, and the other two ten inches. Its length should be
+about eleven inches, and its under side should be sloped off on a
+line with the under curve of the bows. At about five inches from
+the inner face, and on each side, a piece should be sawn out, one
+inch in thickness, thus leaving on each side a notch which will
+exactly receive the side-boards of the boat, as seen at (_a_).
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The piece being thus ready, the bow ends of the boards should be
+drawn together, fitted in the notches and securely spiked with
+large nails. A bow piece of this kind adds greatly to the strength
+of a boat, and will stand much rough usage. The board for the stem
+should next be prepared. This should be ten inches in width and two
+feet in length, and should be securely nailed between the ends of the
+boards at the stem, as shown at (_g_), being afterwards overlapped
+on the top by a board of similar size, as our illustration shows,
+at (_c_). The bottom of the boat is now easily made by nailing
+boards crosswise, sawing off the projecting ends close to the curve
+of the side-boards. After the pieces are all nailed in place, the
+seams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, using a blunt chisel,
+or hard wooden wedge, and a mallet. The seats should now be put
+in, as these are not only a matter of comfort, but of necessity,
+acting as braces to the sides of the boat. They should be two in
+number, one being placed three feet from the stern and the other
+one foot beyond the brace board originally nailed across the top
+of the boat. The seats should be cut at the ends in a curve
+corresponding to the part of the boat in which they are placed,
+and should be situated about a foot from the bottom of the boat,
+their ends resting on short boards beneath them against the sides
+of the boat. These are indicated by the dotted lines (_h h_) in
+[Page 266]
+the diagram. When thus resting they should be securely fastened in
+place by strong screws, driven through the sides of the boat into
+their ends (_f f_), allowing some one to sit on the seat meanwhile
+to keep it in place. Small cleats should now be tacked to the bottom
+of the boat, beneath the seat and underneath the seat itself, in
+order to keep the props in place; after which the original brace
+board across the top of the boat may be knocked off and the bateau
+is complete and ready for service. A boat thus made is quite comely
+in shape, and may be painted to suit the fancy. Should a rudder
+be required, the broad board at the stern offers a good place of
+attachment, and oar-locks may be adjusted at the proper places.
+These may consist of a pair of cleats attached to the inside of
+the boat, as seen in the illustration. In case it may be found
+difficult to obtain the large single boards for the sides of the
+boat, two or more narrow ones will answer the purpose, although
+not as perfectly. In this case they should first be firmly attached
+together by cleats, securely screwed to the inside. When first put
+on the water the boat will probably leak in places, but if left
+to soak for a few hours the wood will generally swell sufficiently
+to completely close the crevices. If, however, the leak should
+continue, that particular part of the boat should be re-caulked
+and smeared with pitch. This latter substance is of great value
+to the trapper, not only in boat building but in the construction
+of his shanties and in other various ways. It will most effectually
+stop almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should always
+be applied hot.
+
+
+[Page 267]
+THE SCOW.
+
+The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow for
+considerable speed in the water, either in rowing or sculling;
+but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed bows
+may be dispensed with, and the sides of the boat made perfectly
+straight. In this case the bottom takes equal slopes at the ends,
+and both bow and stern are of the same width, and an ordinary
+flat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result. In many cases
+a scow of this kind answers every purpose, and is certainly much
+more easily made.
+
+We have thus described a few of the most common instances of boats
+used by trappers, and with our full description and illustrations
+no one can go astray. A boat of some kind is almost an indispensable
+requisite to the trapper, and anyone of the foregoing will be found
+sufficient for all ordinary purposes.
+
+A paddle may be used, and in shallow or muddy water a pusher or
+mud-stick will be found useful. This should consist of a pole seven
+or eight feet in length, supplied at the ends with an attachment of
+the shape of the letter U. This may be constructed in two pieces,
+firmly screwed to opposite sides of the end of the pole, and so
+formed as to present a curved crotch. Such a stick will be found
+very useful for pushing through weeds and muddy places. A simple
+pole trimmed so as to leave a crotch at the end will also answer
+the purpose very well.
+
+
+SNOW-SHOES.
+
+These commodities are almost indispensable to the trapper where
+he pursues his vocation in the winter time, during the prevalence
+of deep snows. When properly made they permit the wearer to walk
+over the surface of the snow with perfect ease; where, without
+them, travel would be extremely difficult if not impossible.
+
+In the regions of perpetual snow, and also in Canada and neighboring
+districts, snow-shoes are very commonly worn. In the latter localities
+the "snow-shoe race" forms one of the favorite sports of the season,
+and young and old alike join in its mysteries. Like riding on the
+velocipede, walking on snow-shoes looks "easy enough," but we notice
+that a few somersaults are usually a convincing argument that the art
+is not as simple as it appears. The first experience on snow-shoes
+[Page 268]
+is apt to be at least undignifying, if not discouraging, and in order
+to get used to the strange capers and eccentricities of an ordinarily
+well-behaved snow shoe, it requires considerable patience and practice.
+There is no telling where, in an unguarded moment, they will land
+you, and they seem to take especial delight in stepping on each
+other and turning their wearer upside down. The principal secret
+of success (and one may as well know it at the start, as to learn
+it at the expense of a pint of snow down his back) consists in
+taking steps sufficiently long to bring the widest portion of the
+stepping shoe beyond that of the other, keeping the feet rather
+far apart and stepping pretty high. By observing these precautions,
+and trusting in Providence, much embarrassment may be saved, and
+an hour's effort will thoroughly tame the unruly appendages, which
+at best do not permit of much grace or elegance of gait.
+
+To the moose hunter snow-shoes are often an absolute necessity,
+and trapping in many cases would be impossible without them. They
+are thus brought fully within the scope of our volume, and we give
+a few simple directions for their manufacture. Our illustration
+gives the correct shape of the shoe. The framework should consist
+of a strip of ash, hickory or some other elastic wood, bent into
+the form indicated and wound around the ends with twine or strips
+of hide. The length of the piece should be about six feet, more
+or less, in proportion to the size of the individual who proposes
+to wear the shoe. If the bending should prove difficult it may
+be rendered an easy matter by the application of boiling water.
+Across the front part two strips of stout leather, or other tough
+hide, are then fastened, and these further secured together by three
+or four bands on each side of the middle, as our drawing shows.
+
+In the original Indian snow-shoe, from which our drawing was made,
+the net work was constructed from strips of moose hide, which were
+interlaced much after the manner of an ordinary cane-seated chair.
+Strips of leather, deer skin, or even split cane, above alluded to,
+may also be used, and the lacing may be either as our illustration
+represents, or in the simpler rectangular woof seen in ordinary
+cloth.
+
+In order to attach the interlacing to the bow the latter should be
+wound with wide strips of cane, if it can be procured, or otherwise
+with strips of tough skin. The loops thus formed offer a continuous
+security, and the whole interior, with the exception of the space
+at the front between the cross pieces, should be neatly filled
+with the next work. It is well to run the first lines
+[Page 269]
+across the shoe, from side to side, passing through the windings
+of the bow. Across them, in the form of the letter X, the two other
+cords should be interlaced, after the manner shown in the cut.
+This forms a secure and not very complicated network, and is the
+style usually adopted by the Indian makers.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There is another mode of attaching the lace-work to the bow which
+is also commonly employed, and consists in a series of holes bored
+at regular intervals through the wood. The winding is thus dispensed
+with, but the bow is sometimes weakened by the operation, and we are
+inclined to recommend the former method in preference. In attaching
+the shoe, the ball of the foot should be set on the second cross
+piece, and there secured by a strip of hide, which should be first
+adjusted as seen in the engraving, being afterward tied over the
+foot and then behind the ankle. Snow-shoes are made in other ways,
+but we believe that the typical Indian snow-shoe above described
+is the best.
+
+
+THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.
+
+For winter traffic over deep snows there is no better sled in the
+world than the Indian toboggan. To the trapper during a winter
+campaign it is often an indispensable convenience, and without
+it the Indian hunters of the North would find great difficulty in
+getting their furs to market. All through the winter season the
+various trading posts of Canada are constantly visited by numbers
+of Indian trappers, many of whom have travelled hundreds of miles
+on their snow-shoes with their heavily laden toboggans. Arrived at
+[Page 270]
+their market they sell or trade their stock of furs, and likewise
+dispose of their toboggans, reserving only their snow-shoes to aid
+them in their long tramp homewards.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In Canada and northward the toboggan is in very extensive use, both
+for purposes of traffic and amusement. It is quite commonly met
+with in the streets of various Canadian cities, and is especially
+appreciated by the youthful population, who are fond of coasting
+over the crust of snow. For this purpose there is no other sled
+like it, and a toboggan of the size we shall describe will easily
+accommodate two or three boys, and will glide over a crust of snow
+with great ease and rapidity. To the trapper it is especially valuable
+for all purposes of transportation. The flat bottom rests upon
+the surface of the snow, and the weight being thus distributed
+a load of two or three hundred pounds will often make but little
+impression and can be drawn with marvellous ease. Our illustration
+gives a very clear idea of the sled, and it can be made in the
+following way: the first requisite is a board about eight feet
+in length and sixteen or more inches in width. Such a board may
+be procured at any saw mill. Oak is the best wood for the purpose,
+although hickory, basswood or ash will do excellently. It should
+be planed or sawed to a thickness of about a third of an inch,
+and should be free from knots. If a single board of the required
+width is not easily found, two boards may be used, and secured
+side by side by three cleats, one at each end and the other in
+the middle, using wrought nails and clinching them deeply into the
+board on the under side. The single board is much to be preferred,
+if it can be had. The next requisites are seven or eight wooden
+cross-pieces of a length equivalent to the width of the board.
+Four old broom-sticks, cut in the required lengths, will answer
+[Page 271]
+this purpose perfectly, and if these are not at hand other sticks
+of similar dimensions should be used. Two side pieces are next
+needed. These should be about five feet in length, and in thickness
+exactly similar to the cross pieces. Next procure a few pairs of
+leather shoe-strings or some strips of tough calf skin. With these
+in readiness we may now commence the work of putting the parts
+together. Begin by laying the cross pieces at equal distances along
+the board; across these and near their ends lay the two side pieces,
+as seen in the illustration. By the aid of a gimlet or awl, four
+holes should now be made through the board, beneath the end of each
+cross piece, and also directly under the side piece. It is well to
+mark with a pencil, the various points for the holes, after which
+the sticks can be removed and the work much more easily performed.
+The four holes should be about an inch apart, or so disposed as to
+mark the four corners of a square inch. It is also necessary to
+make other holes along the length of the cross pieces, as seen
+in the illustration. The line on these can also be marked with
+the pencil across the board, and the holes made afterwards. These
+should also be an inch apart, and only two in number at each point,
+one on each side of the stick. When all the holes are made the
+board should be turned over, in order to complete preparations
+on the other side. The object of these various holes is for the
+passage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose of securing
+the cross pieces firmly to the board. In order to prevent these
+loops from wearing off on the under side, small grooves should next
+be made connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing the leather
+string to sink into the wood, where it is securely protected from
+injury. A narrow chisel is the best tool for this purpose, the making
+of the grooves being much more easily and perfectly accomplished
+with this than with the jack-knife. When the under side is thus
+finished the board may be turned over and the cross pieces and
+sides again arranged in place as already described. Secure the
+pieces to the board by the leather strings through the various
+holes, always knotting on the upper surface, and taking care that
+the knots are firmly tied. The ends of all the cross pieces will
+require a double cross stitch through the four holes beneath, in
+order to secure the side pieces as well. This is plainly shown in
+the small diagram (_a_). The front end of each side piece underneath
+should now be sharpened to a point, to allow for the bend at the
+front of the toboggan. The cross piece at this end should be secured
+to the under side of the board, so that as it bends over it will
+appear on the upper edge, as our illustration shows. The board should
+[Page 272]
+next be bent with a graceful curve, and thus held in position by a
+rope or strip of leather at each extremity of the end cross piece and
+attached to the ends of the third cross piece, as seen in the engraving.
+If the bending is difficult and there is danger of breaking the board,
+the application of boiling water will render it pliable. The draw
+strings should then be attached to the ends of the second cross piece,
+and our toboggan is now complete.
+
+It may now be laden with two or three hundred pounds of merchandize
+and will be found to draw over the surface of the snow with perfect
+ease. For coasting over the crust there is nothing like it. Such a
+toboggan as we have described will easily accommodate three boys,
+the one at the stern being provided with a sharp stick for steering,
+and the front occupant holding firmly to the draw strings. The
+toboggan is easily made, and will do good service either for traffic
+or sport.
+
+
+CURING SKINS.
+
+This department of the trapper's art is one of the most important
+and necessary, as affecting pecuniary profits. The value of a skin
+in the fur market depends entirely upon the care with which it
+is taken from the animal and afterward prepared, and without a
+knowledge on this subject the young trapper will in vain seek for
+high prices for his furs. Large quantities of valuable skins are
+sent to our markets annually by inexperienced amateur trappers,
+and in many cases rare and beautiful furs have been almost spoiled
+by want of care in skinning and curing. The rules are simple and
+easily followed, a little care being all that is necessary to insure
+most perfect success. In every case the skin should be removed
+shortly after death, or at least before it has become tainted with
+decay. Great pains should be taken in skinning. Avoid the adherence
+of flesh or fat to the skin, and guard against cutting through the
+hide, as a pierced skin is much injured in value. The parts about
+the eyes, legs and ears should be carefully removed. The various
+methods of skinning are described in our section on trapping, and
+in all cases the furs should be allowed to dry in a cool, airy
+place, free from the rays of the sun or the heat of a fire, and
+protected from rain.
+
+Astringent preparations of various kinds are used by many trappers,
+but they are by no means necessary. The most common dressing consists
+of equal parts of rock salt and alum dissolved in water. Into this
+a sufficient amount of coarse flour or wheat bran is stirred to give
+[Page 273]
+the mixture the consistency of batter, after which it is spread
+thickly over the skin and allowed to dry.
+
+It is afterwards scraped off, and in some cases a second application
+is made. This preparation is much used in dressing beaver, otter,
+mink and muskrat skins, but as many of our most successful and
+experienced trappers do without it, we fail to see the advantage of
+using it, as it is only an extra trouble. The simplest and surest
+way is to stretch the skin and to submit it to a gradual process
+of natural drying without any artificial heat or application of
+astringents to hasten the result.
+
+A very common mode of stretching skins consists in tacking them to
+a board, with the fur inwards, and allowing them to dry as already
+described.
+
+This method does very well for small skins, but for general purposes
+the "stretchers" are the only means by which a pelt may be properly
+cured and prepared.
+
+
+STRETCHERS.
+
+The board stretcher is the simplest form and is in most common use
+among trappers for the smaller animals. These stretchers are of
+two kinds, the plain and the wedged. The plain stretcher consists
+of a piece of board a quarter of an inch in thickness, about eighteen
+inches long and six inches in width. One end of this board is rounded
+off, as seen in our illustration, and the sides should also be
+whittled and smoothed to a blunt edge.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The board stretchers are used only for those skins which are taken
+off whole, that is, as described in the chapter on the otter. The
+skin should be drawn tightly over the blunt end of the board, and
+its edges either caught in notches cut in the edges of the square
+end or secured by a few tacks. This stretcher is particularly
+[Page 274]
+adapted to the skins of muskrats, minks and animals of a like size.
+They are known in New England as "shingle stretchers," and are much
+to be recommended on account of their lightness and the ease with
+which they can be made and carried.
+
+The wedge stretcher is rather more elaborate than the foregoing,
+and is said to be an improvement.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first requisite is a board of about three-eighths of an inch in
+thickness, two feet or more in length, and three and a half inches
+at one end tapering to the width of two inches at the other. This
+end should now be rounded, and the edges of the board whittled off
+to a blunt edge, as already described in the foregoing, commencing
+near the centre of the board, and thinning to the edge, and finishing
+with the notches at the square end. Now, by the aid of a rip-saw,
+sever the board through the middle lengthwise.
+
+The wedge is the next thing to be constructed, and should consist
+of a piece of wood the thickness of the centre of the board and
+of the same length, tapering from an inch in width at one end to
+half an inch at the other.
+
+To use the stretcher the two boards are inserted into the skin,
+(the latter with the fur side inward). The wedge is then inserted
+between the large ends of the boards and driven in sufficiently to
+stretch the pelt to its full capacity, securing it in the notches
+by slight cuts in the hide, or by a tack or two at the edge. It
+should then he hung in a cool, airy place, and the pelt left to
+"season."
+
+The bow stretcher is another contrivance very commonly used for
+small skins like the foregoing. When this is used the pelt should
+be skinned as described on page 185, the initial cut commencing
+at the lower jaw and extending down between the fore legs, all
+the feet being previously cut off. The bow may consist of a switch
+of any elastic wood such as hickory iron wood, elm or birch. It
+should be about three or more feet in length, and as large as a
+man's thumb at the butt end. By bending it in the shape of the
+letter U it may easily be inserted in the skin, the latter being
+[Page 275]
+fastened by catching the lip on each side into a sliver notch cut on
+each end of the bow, as our illustration indicates.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+For large animals, such as the deer, bear, beaver, the hoop stretcher
+is generally employed.
+
+
+THE HOOP STRETCHER.
+
+This consists of a hoop made from one or more flexible switches
+tied together so as to form a circle. In order to be adapted to
+this mode of stretching, the skin should be flat, _i. e._ taken
+off as described on page 172, the initial cut extending from the
+lower jaw to the vent. The size of the hoop required depends upon
+the dimensions of the skin. Lay the latter upon some flat surface
+and so gauge the hoop as that it shall surround the pelt on all
+sides; after which the latter should be secured or laced to the
+hoop with twine at the edges. All loose parts should be drawn up,
+and the skin should everywhere be stretched like a drum head. When
+this is accomplished it is the custom with many trappers to apply
+the preparation described on page 273, particularly where the skin
+is thick and fatty. But we are rather disposed to discourage the
+use of any preparation whatever, in any case, as they are by no
+means necessary.
+
+In using the board stretchers the fur should always be on the inside,
+and when the hoop or bow is used it should be placed in such a
+position, that the air may circulate freely on both sides of the
+skin, which should not be removed until thoroughly dry.
+
+
+[Page 276]
+TANNING SKINS.
+
+In case some of our readers might desire to tan fur skins for their
+own domestic purposes, the subjoined directions will be found to be
+reliable, and for all ordinary requirements, sufficiently adequate.
+
+For tanning with the hair on, the skin should first be cleaned,
+every particle of loose fat or flesh, being removed, and the useless
+parts cut away. When this is done, it should be soaked for an hour
+or two in warm water. The following mixture should then be prepared:
+Take equal parts of borax, saltpetre, and sulphate of soda, and
+with them mix water sufficient to produce the consistency of thin
+batter.
+
+This preparation should be painted thickly on the flesh side of
+the skin, after which these sides should be doubled together and
+the pelt left in an airy place.
+
+A second mixture should next be prepared. This should consist of
+two parts sal soda; three parts borax; four parts castile or other
+hard soap: all to be melted together over a slow fire. At the end
+of twenty-four hours, after the application of the first mixture,
+the second should be applied in a similar manner, and the fur again
+folded and left for the same length of time. Next, make a mixture
+equal parts of salt and alum, dissolved in warm water and thickened
+with coarse flour to the consistency of thin paste. Spread this thickly
+over the skin and allow it to dry, after which it should be scraped
+off with the bowl of a spoon. The skin should be tightly stretched
+during the operation, in order to prevent too great shrinkage. A
+single application of the last-named dressing, is generally sufficient
+for small skins; but a second or third treatment may be resorted
+to if required, to make the skin soft and pliable, after which it
+should be finished off with sand-paper and pumice stone. A skin
+may be thus dressed as soft as velvet, and the alum and salt will
+set the hair securely.
+
+The above directions are excellent, for all general purposes, but
+we subjoin, in addition, a few other valuable hints and specific
+recipes in common use. Every trapper has his own peculiar hobby
+in regard to his tanning process, and the recipes are various and
+extensive. The above is one of the most reliable for general use.
+A common mode of tanning mink and muskrat skins is given in the
+following:--
+
+
+TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS.
+
+Before tanning, the skin should always be thoroughly cleansed
+[Page 277]
+in warm water, and all fat and superfluous flesh removed. It should
+then be immersed in a solution made of the following ingredients:
+Five gallons of cold soft water; five quarts wheat bran; one gill
+of salt; and one ounce of sulphuric acid. Allow the skins to soak in
+the liquid for four or five hours. If the hides have been previously
+salted, the salt should be excluded from the mixed solution. The
+skins are now ready for the tanning liquor, which is made in the
+following way: into five gallons of warm, soft water, stir one peck
+of wheat bran and allow the mixture to stand in a warm room until
+fermentation takes place. Then add three pints of salt, and stir until
+it is thoroughly dissolved. A pint of sulphuric acid should then be
+poured in gradually, after which the liquor is ready. Immerse the
+skins and allow them to soak for three or four hours. The process
+of "fleshing" is then to be resorted to. This consists in laying the
+skin, fur side down, over some smooth beam, and working over the
+flesh side with a blunt fleshing tool. An old chopping knife, or
+tin candlestick, forms an excellent substitute for the ordinary
+fleshing knife, and the process of rubbing should be continued
+until the skin becomes dry, after which it will be found to be
+soft and pliable. The skin of the muskrat is quite tender, and the
+fleshing should be carefully performed.
+
+
+HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, AND MARTEN.
+
+These should be stretched on a board and smeared with a mixture
+composed of three ounces each, of salt and alum; three gills of
+water, and one drachm of sulphuric acid. This should be thickened
+with wheat bran or flour, and should be allowed to dry on the skin,
+after which it should be scraped off with a spoon. Next, take the
+skin from the board, roll it with the fur inside, and draw it quickly
+backward and forward, over a smooth peg, or through an iron ring.
+The skin should then be unfolded and rolled again the opposite
+way, and the operation repeated until the pelt is quite soft and
+flexible. This is a good way of softening all kinds of skins, and
+the above preparation will be found excellent for all ordinary
+purposes. The muskrat skin may be treated in the same manner as
+the above, if desired, and the process directed on the muskrat
+skin may also be applied to the pelts of the other animals.
+
+To remove the fur for a simple tanned skin, the hide should be
+immersed in a liquid composed of--soft water, five gallons; slaked
+lime, four quarts; and wood ashes, four quarts. Allow
+[Page 278]
+the skin to soak for a couple of days, after which the fur will
+readily slip off.
+
+Another method--take equal parts wood ashes and slaked lime, and
+add water to the consistency of batter. Spread this over the inside
+of the skin, roll it up, and place it in a pail, covering it with
+water. Here let it remain from one to five days, or until the hair
+will shed easily, after which it should be finished with the fleshing
+knife and velveted with sand paper.
+
+
+OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.
+
+In all cold climates, man has availed himself liberally of the
+warm covering with which nature has clothed the animals around
+him; but the wealth of the most favored nations has drawn to them
+the most beautiful furs, in whatever part of the world they are
+procured. Skins of animals were among the first materials used
+for clothing. Before Adam and Eve were driven from the Garden of
+Eden, they were furnished with coats of skins. The ancient Assyrians
+used the soft skins of animals to cover the couches or the ground
+in their tents, and the Israelites employed badger's skins and
+ram's skins, as ornamental hangings for the Tabernacle. The ancient
+heroes of the Greeks and Romans, are represented as being clothed
+in skins. AEneas, wearing for an outer garment, that of the lion,
+and Alcestes being formidably clad in that of the Libyan Bear.
+Herodotus speaks of those living near the Caspian Sea wearing seal
+skins, and Caesar mentions that the skin of the reindeer formed in
+part the clothing of the Germans. In the early period, furs appear
+to have constituted the entire riches of the Northern countries,
+and they were almost the only exports. Taxes were paid on them,
+and they were the medium of exchange. So it was also in our own
+Western territories in the latter part of the last century, and is
+to the present day, to a great extent, among the Indians. In the
+eleventh century, furs had become fashionable throughout Europe,
+and the art of dyeing them, was practiced in the twelfth. In the
+history of the Crusades, frequent mention is made of the magnificent
+displays by the European Princes, of their dresses of costly furs,
+before the Court at Constantinople. But Richard I. of England, and
+Philip II. of France, in order to check the growing extravagance
+in their use, resolved that the choicer furs, ermine and sable
+amongst the number, should be omitted from their kingly wardrobes.
+Louis IX. followed their example in the next century, but not
+[Page 279]
+until his extravagance had grown to such a pitch, that _seven hundred
+and forty-six_ ermines were required for the _lining_ of one of his
+_surcoats_. In the times, the use of the choicer furs, as those
+of the sable, ermine, gris, and Hungarian squirrel, was restricted
+to the royal families and the nobility, to whom they served as
+distinctive marks and badges of rank. These privileged persons
+applied them lavishly to their own use, and the fashion extended
+to the princes of other less civilized nations. Their royal use
+soon extended to Tartary, and the tents of the Khan were bedecked
+with the most rich and costly furs. In the following century, furs
+were commonly worn in England until their use was prohibited by
+Edward III., to all persons whose purse would not warrant a yearly
+expenditure of L100.
+
+The early fur trade of Western Europe, was conducted through the
+merchants on the south coast of the Baltic, who received goods from
+the ports of Livonia. In the sixteenth century, a direct trade was
+opened between the English and Russians; and a company of the former,
+protected by the Czar, established trading posts on the White Sea,
+and a warehouse at Moscow, whence they sent trading parties to
+Persia and the countries on the Caspian Sea. The Czar sent rich
+presents of beautiful furs, to Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth;
+but the latter prohibited the wearing of any but native furs, and
+the trade soon declined and was abandoned. In the 17th century,
+Siberia was conquered by the Russians, and its tribute was paid
+in furs. Large quantities were also furnished to China, but the
+choicest kinds--the precious ermine, the brilliant, fiery foxes, and
+the best sables, were taken to Moscow, for the use of the princes
+and nobles of Russia, Turkey, and Persia.
+
+In our own country, the early settlers of the Northern provinces,
+soon learned the value of the furs of the numerous animals which
+peopled the extensive rivers, lakes, and forests of these vast
+territories. They collected the skins in abundance, and found an
+increasing demand for them, with every new arrival of immigrants
+from the mother country. Trinkets, liquors, and other articles
+sought for by the native tribes, were shipped to Quebec, and from
+thence up the St. Lawrence to Montreal, which soon became the great
+trading post of the country. The various tribes of Indians were
+stimulated by trifling compensation, to pursue their only congenial
+and peaceful occupation; and the French settlers, readily assimilating
+to the Indian habits, became themselves expert hunters, trappers,
+and explorers.
+
+The business prospered, and the English soon became interested and
+secured a share of the valuable trade. Many
+[Page 280]
+wealthy and influential parties, connected with the government
+of Great Britain,--Prince Rupert and Lord Ashley, among the
+number--became deeply interested in this source of revenue; and
+after a successful enterprise, they obtained from Charles II., a
+charter of incorporation, giving to them full possession of the
+territory within the entrance of Hudson's Straits, not already granted
+to other subjects, or possessed by those of any other Christian
+prince or State. In this charter was included the monopoly, of all
+trade in these regions, and thus we see the origin of the Great
+Hudson's Bay Company, which is to-day, one of the largest organizations
+of its kind on the globe. The territory they claimed, extended
+from Hudson's Bay, west to the Pacific, and north to the Arctic
+Ocean, excepting that occupied by the French and Russians. They
+soon formed settlements upon the various rivers which empty into
+Hudson's Bay, and carried on their operations with immense vigor
+and success. They met with much opposition and open hostility from
+the French, and were subjected to vast expenses and losses, but in
+spite of all, they continued to prosper. Their forts or factories
+were extended further into the interior of British America, and
+their power was supreme throughout the country, and in a great
+measure over the Indians, whom they employed to collect their skins.
+In the course of time, the French Canadians organized themselves
+into a united band, under the name of the North West Company, and
+established their headquarters at Montreal. Their operations were
+carried on with great energy and profit, and many factories were
+built in the western portion of the Province. The company thus soon
+became a formidable competitor with the Hudson's Bay Company and
+for a period of two years, an actual state of war existed between
+them. This condition of affairs finally terminated in a consolidation
+of the two organizations, under the name of the Hudson's Bay Company,
+the privileges of which extended over all the territory formerly
+occupied by both.
+
+Thus, we have the history of the famous Hudson's Bay Company, from
+its origin to its perfect organization. It is a most stupendous
+concern, and its annual shipment of furs, is something amazing.
+Their great sales take place in the month of March, in order to
+be completed before Easter; and again in September, every year
+at London, and are attended by purchasers from nearly all parts
+of the world. Leipsic, the famous fur mart of Germany, is also
+the scene of a great annual fair, for the sale of skins.
+
+The importance of the fur trade in this country, led to the
+[Page 281]
+early settlement of the Western territories of the United States;
+and many a frontier city, like St. Paul, has been built up by the
+enterprise of the trapper. Mackinaw and Montreal owe much of their
+growth to the traffic of the fur trade; and many a kingly fortune--John
+Jacob Astor's, for instance--has been founded on peltry.
+
+Besides the above fur sales in London a moderate portion of those
+annually collected in the United States are retained for use, amounting
+to about 150,000 mink and 750,000 muskrat skins, besides a number
+of other furs which are manufactured and worn.
+
+The annual yield of raw furs throughout the whole world is estimated
+at over twenty millions of dollars in value; and when we include
+the manufactured articles therefrom, the amount will swell to a
+hundred millions or over. This will serve to give some idea of
+the immensity and value of the business.
+
+American dealers divide our native furs into two classes, viz.,
+_home_ and _shipping_ furs; the former being chiefly utilized in
+our own country, while the latter are exported to all parts of
+the world. New York City is the great fur mart and depot for the
+shipping trade in this country, and the annual value of its exports,
+in this one branch of trade is enormous.
+
+The principal shipping furs are the silver, red and cross Fox, Wild
+Cat, Raccoon, Fisher, Muskrat and Skunk.
+
+Among the home furs are the Marten, Mink, Opossum, Wolf and Muskrat,
+the latter being extensively used both here and abroad.
+
+In the following chapter will be found more detailed notes on the
+leading American furs, including their various uses and the different
+countries for which they are the especial staples.
+
+In order to give the reader some idea of the variety and magnitude
+of the yield of furs from our own country, we annex a table (p.
+282) showing the sales of the Hudson's Bay Company, at London,
+in the year 1873.
+
+
+MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS.
+
+Below will be found an authentic table of the comparative values
+of the various American furs at the present date of publication.
+The quotations are those of one of our largest fur dealers, as
+published in "THE HAT, CAP AND FUR TRADE REVIEW," the leading journal
+of the trade in America. Of course these values are constantly
+varying--keeping pace with the eccentricities of fashion and the
+demands of the fur trade; but
+[Page 282]
+the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values, as
+between the two extremes of common and scarce furs. The fur market
+is a great deal like the stock market. It is constantly fluctuating,
+and a fur which is to-day among the novelties, may next year find
+itself on the low priced list. The demand for furs of any kind
+is nearly always governed by fashion, and of course the value is
+estimated on the demand. If the convention of fur dealers should
+decide to usher in _Muskrat fur_ as the leading and most fashionable
+article in that line, the fashion would create the demand, the
+demand would be in turn supplied by the trappers throughout the
+country, and in proportion as the Muskrat skins became scarce,
+so their value would increase. In this way a skin which may be
+worth fifty cents at one time may soon acquire a value of twenty
+times that amount. The comparative value of skins is, therefore,
+constantly varying more or less; but the annexed table (page 283)
+will be found useful for general reference, and for approximate
+figures, will probably answer every purpose for some time to come.
+
+ ==========================================================================
+             |  No. of |  No. of |         |                     |Estimated
+             |  Skins. |  Skins. |  Total  |  Price according to | average
+    KINDS.   |  March  |  Sept.  |   No.   |        quality.     |price per
+             |  Sale.  |  Sale.  |         |                     |  skin.
+ ------------|---------|---------|---------|-------------------------------
+             |         |         |         |                     |  L s. d.
+ Badger      |   2,700 |         |   2,700 | 1s. to 7s.          |     1 06
+ Bear        |   5,217 |   2,794 |   8,011 | 5s. to L8 l0s.      |  5  0 00
+ Beaver      | 111,993 |  37,052 | 149,045 | 4S. 3d. to 38s. 6d. |  1 00 00
+ Fisher      |   2,843 |     779 |   3,622 | 8s. to L3 5s.       |  2 10 00
+ Fox, Blue   |      90 |         |      90 | 18s. to L4.         |  2 10 00
+  "   Cross  |   1,818 |     471 |   2,289 | 5s. to L4.          |  1 10 00
+  "   Kitt   |   6,930 |         |   6,930 | 2s. 8d. to 28s. 10d.|     3 00
+  "   Red    |   6,914 |   1,383 |   8,297 | 4s. 6d. to 17s.     |    10 00
+  "   Silver |     540 |     148 |     688 | L3 10s. to L21.     | 10 00 00
+  "   White  |   7,312 |         |   7,312 | 2s. to 14s. 9d.     |     7 00
+ Lynx        |   2,468 |   1,652 |   4,120 | 9s. 6d. to L1 14s.  |    18 00
+ Marten      |  47,878 |  18,955 |  66,833 | 10s. to L3 19s.     |  1 10 00
+ Mink        |  31,802 |  12,896 |  44,698 | 4s. to L1 8s. 6d.   |    15 00
+ Muskrat     | 651,498 | 116,488 | 767,896 | 3d. to 16d.         |    00  8
+ Otter       |   8,571 |   2,681 |  11,252 | 14s. to L3 18s.     |  2 10 00
+   "   Sea   |         |      98 |      98 | L4 10s. to L32.     | 15 00 00
+ Rabbit      |  10,029 |         |  10,029 | 3d. to 4d.          |    00  3
+ Raccoon     |         |   3,582 |   3,582 | 1s. to 3s. 3d.      |     2  6
+ Skunk       |   1,691 |         |   1,691 | 2s. to 7s.          |     4 00
+ Wolf        |   6,216 |     188 |   6,404 | 6s. to L2 15s.      |    15 00
+ Wolverine   |   1,770 |     320 |   2,090 | 8s. to L1 1s.       |    15 00
+ ==========================================================================
+
+
+[Page 283]
+ AMERICAN FUR SKINS--TABLE OF VALUES.[*]
+ ==========================================================================
+                                       | Prime. |Seconds.| Thirds.|Fourths.
+ --------------------------------------|--------|--------|--------|--------
+ Badger                                |  $1.00 |  $0.50 |  $0.10 |  $
+ Bear, Black                           |  18.00 |   9.00 |   1.00 |
+   "   Cub                             |  10.00 |   5.00 |   1.00 |
+   "   Brown                           |   7.00 |   4.00 |   1.00 |
+ Beaver, California            per lb. |   1.25 |     75 |     50 |
+    "    Southern                      |   1.00 |     75 |     40 |
+    "    Upper Missouri                |   1.75 |   1.50 |     50 |
+    "    Lake Supr. and Canada.        |   2.50 |   1.75 |     75 |
+ Cat, Wild                             |     40 |     10 |        |
+  "   House                            |     15 |     10 |        |
+ Deer, Florida                 per lb. |     20 |        |        |
+  "    Missouri                        |     20 |        |        |
+ Elk and Moose                 per lb. |     35 |     25 |        |
+ Fisher, Southern                      |   7.00 |   5.00 |   1.00 |
+   "     Eastern and Canada            |  10.00 |   8.00 |   2.00 |
+ Fox, Silver                           | 100.00 |  25.00 |   1.00 |
+  "   Cross                            |   3.00 |   1.50 |   1.00 |
+  "   Blue                             |  15.00 |   5.00 |   1.00 |
+  "   White                            |   3.00 |   1.50 |        |
+  "   Red                              |   1.75 |   1.00 |     75 |     25
+  "   Gray                             |   3.00 |   1.50 |     50 |     25
+  "   Kitt                             |     50 |     25 |        |
+ Lynx, Minnesota                       |   2.50 |   1.00 |        |
+  "    Canada                          |   4.00 |   2.00 |        |
+ Marten, Dark                          |  10.00 |   6.00 |   2.00 |
+   "     Small Pale                    |   2.00 |   1.00 |     50 |
+ Mink, Southern                        |   1.00 |     50 |     25 |     10
+   "   Western                         |   1.25 |   1.00 |     50 |     10
+   "   Middle States                   |   2.00 |   1.25 |     50 |     10
+   "   Minnesota                       |   2.50 |   1.50 |     75 |     20
+   "   New England                     |   3.50 |   1.75 |   1.00 |     20
+   "   Quebec and Halifax              |   4.00 |   2.00 |   1.00 |     20
+ Muskrat, Southern                     |     28 |     25 |     15 |      5
+    "     Western                      |     30 |     28 |     18 |      6
+    "     Northern                     |     32 |     30 |     20 |      8
+    "     Eastern                      |     35 |     30 |     22 |     10
+ Opossum, Ohio                         |     30 |     20 |     10 |
+    "     Southern                     |     20 |     10 |        |
+ Otter, Southern                       |   5.00 |   3.00 |   2.00 |     50
+   "    Northern                       |  10.00 |   6.00 |   2.00 |     50
+ Rabbit                                |      3 |        |        |
+ Raccoon, Southern                     |     50 |     30 |     15 |      5
+    "     Western                      |   1.00 |     50 |     20 |      5
+    "     Michigan                     |   1.25 |     80 |     30 |      5
+ Seal, Hair                            |     60 |        |        |
+   "   Fur                             |  10.00 |        |        |
+ Skunk, Black Cased                    |   1.00 |     60 |     40 |     10
+   "    Half Stripe                    |     60 |     50 |     25 |     10
+   "    White                          |     20 |     10 |        |
+ Wolf, Timber                          |   3.00 |   1.50 |        |
+   "   Prairie                         |   1.00 |     75 |        |
+ Wolverine                             |   5.00 |   2.00 |        |
+ ==========================================================================
+
+[Footnote *: From the "Hat Cap and Fur Trade Review."]
+
+[Page 284]
+Notwithstanding all these advertised prices, the young trapper
+often experiences great difficulty in a profitable disposal of his
+furs. Like every other business, the fur trade runs in its regular
+grooves, and the average furrier will often pay an experienced
+professional five dollars for a skin for which he would not offer
+a _dollar_ to an amateur. This certainly seems discouraging, but
+the knowledge of the fact is calculated to prevent _greater_
+discouragement.
+
+We often see fancy prices advertised by fur dealers for first-class
+skins; but when the furs are sent, only a few are selected as "_prime_,"
+the rest being rejected as worthless, or perhaps meeting with a
+meagre offer far below the regular rates. In this way the dealers
+have the opportunity of choice selection without incurring any
+risk. Many a young trapper has been thus disappointed, and has
+seen his small anticipated fortune dwindle down to very small
+proportions.
+
+The fur trade is supplied through regular professional channels;
+and in giving our advice to the novice, we would recommend as the
+most satisfactory and profitable plan that he should make his sales
+to some local hunter or trapper, who has had experience with the fur
+trade, and who is satisfied to pay a fair price for the various skins
+with the probability of selling at an advance, and thus realizing
+a profit.
+
+In nearly every trapping locality such men are to be found, and
+although the prices earned may be below the market rates, the amateur
+takes none of the speculative risks of the business, and should
+be willing to take lower prices on this account.
+
+
+AMERICAN FUR SKINS--THEIR USES AT HOME AND ABROAD.
+
+In the early history of fur apparel, its use was determined by
+_climate_; to-day, and especially in this country, it is regulated
+by the caprice of _fashion_. The mink for many years took the lead
+in the list of fashionable furs, but has of late been superseded
+by the introduction of the fur seal. The most choice and costly
+of our American furs at the present day is the Silver Fox. When
+highly dressed they are worth from 10 to 50 guineas each in the
+European market. They are principally bought by the Russians and
+Chinese.
+
+The skins of the Red Fox are purchased by the Chinese, Greeks,
+Persians, and other Oriental nations. They are made into linings
+for robes, etc., and ornamented with the black fur of the paws
+which is set on in spots or waves. The fur of the
+[Page 285]
+Beaver was formerly highly prized in the manufacture of hats. and
+yielded a large portion of the profits of the Fur Companies,
+constituting the largest item in value among furs. Cheaper materials
+have since been substituted in making hats, and the demand for
+this purpose has been greatly reduced. By a new process the skin
+is now prepared as a handsome fur for collars and gauntlets, and
+its fine silky wool has been successfully woven. The soft, white
+fur from the belly of the animal, is largely used in France for
+bonnets.
+
+Raccoon skins are the great staple for Russia and Germany, where,
+on account of their durability and cheapness, they are in demand
+for linings for coats, etc. Among the Bear skins, those of the
+black and grizzly are extensively used for military caps, housings,
+holsters, sleigh robes, etc,
+
+The fur of the Lynx is soft, warm and light, and is commonly dyed
+of a beautiful shining black. It is used for the facings and linings
+of cloaks, chiefly in America.
+
+The Fisher yields a dark and full fur which is largely used in
+fashionable winter apparel.
+
+The skin of the Marten, is richly dyed and utilized in choice furs
+and trimmings.
+
+The Mink, like the two foregoing, belongs to the same genus as
+the Russian Sable, and its fur so much resembles the latter as to
+be sometimes mistaken for it. It is one of fashion's furs, and the
+hair of the tail is sometimes used in the manufacture of artist's
+pencils.
+
+The Muskrat produces the fur most worn by the masses, and is largely
+exported into Germany, France and England. It is estimated that
+over six millions of muskrat skins are annually taken in America,
+and of that number one-half are used in Germany alone.
+
+The skin of the Otter is at present classed among the leading
+fashionable furs in this country. They are dyed of a deep purplish
+black color, and are made into sacques, muffs, etc. It is also
+used by the Russians, Greeks and Chinese. It is mostly an American
+product, but is also procured to some extent in the British Isles
+from a smaller variety of the species.
+
+The skins of the Wolf are chiefly used for sleigh robes and such
+purposes. The fur of the Rabbit is mainly employed in the manufacture
+of felt, and is also utilized for lining and trimming. The business
+of breeding rabbits for their fur has been introduced into the
+United States, and large numbers have been successfully raised in
+Danbury, Conn., for felting purposes connected with the manufacture
+of hats.
+
+[Page 286]
+The fur of the Wolverine or Glutton, finds a market for the most
+part in Germany, where it is used for trimmings and cloak linings.
+
+The Skunk furnishes the fur known as Alaska Sable, which forms
+one of our staple pelts, many thousands being annually exported
+to Poland and the adjacent provinces.
+
+The Badger yields a valuable and fashionable fur, which is also
+extensively used in the manufacture of artist's brushes; a good
+"badger blender" forming a valuable accessory to a painter's outfit.
+Shaving brushes by the thousand are annually made from the variegated
+hair of the badger.
+
+The Opossum yields a fur in very common use among the masses, and
+the skins of the domestic Cat are utilized to a considerable extent
+in the manufacture of robes, mats, etc. The fur of the Puma and Wild
+Cat are also employed in this form, and may often be seen handsomely
+mounted and hanging on the backs of sleighs on our fashionable
+thoroughfares. Among the small game the skins of Squirrels are used
+for linings, and the soft, velvety fur of the Mole is manufactured
+into light robes, and very fine hats, and in theatrical paraphernalia
+is sometimes employed for artificial eyebrows.
+
+Full descriptions of the color of the various furs will be found
+in our lengthy illustrated chapter on our American animals.
+
+[Illustration: THE END.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 289]
+[Illustration: INDEX]
+
+A
+
+Adirondack experiences with mosquitoes, 256.
+Advice to the Novice on the sale of Furs, 283.
+Air-tight Jar, for butter, &c., 236.
+Alaska Sable, 286.--See also Skunk.
+Alcohol, its use and abuse, 257.
+Alum--used in waterproofing, 249.
+"Amateur Trapping," 225.
+AMBER, OIL OF, used in the art of Trapping, 152.
+AMERICAN FUR SKINS.--Table of values, 284.
+  Their uses at Home and Abroad, 284.
+American Lion.--See Puma.
+Amputation, self inflicted, as a means of escape with captured
+  animals, 144.
+  To prevent, 144, 145.
+Ancient uses of Furs, 278.
+ANISE, OIL OF.--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+  As bait for fish, 240.
+Annual yield of Furs throughout the world, 281.
+Apparatus for stretching skins, 273.
+Arrows, poisoned, 26.
+Arrow Traps, 23, 25.
+Artificial Eyebrows of Mole Fur, 286.
+ART OF TRAPPING, 148.
+ASSAFOETIDA.--
+  Its use by the Trapper, 151.
+  As scent bait for fish, 240.
+ASTOR, JOHN JACOB, and the Fur Trade, 281.
+Astringent Preparations, use of, in drying Skins, 273, 276.
+
+B
+
+BADGER, THE,--
+  Nature and habits of, 175.
+  Skinning the, 177.
+  Trapping the, 175.
+  Uses of Fur, 286.
+  Value of Fur, 284.
+Bags, Waterproof, for food, 236.
+Baiting the Steel Trap, 143.
+Baits for fishing, 240.
+Baits, scent, 149.
+Bait, Trapping without, 148.
+BARK SHANTY.--
+  Hints on, 266.
+  Details of construction, 245.
+Bark-Stone.--See Castoreum.
+Bark-Stone composition.--See Castoreum.
+"Barque."--See Birch Bark Canoe.
+Barrel Hoops used in canoe building, 264.
+BARREL TRAPS, 125, 127, 133.
+Basket for the shoulders, 234, 236.
+Basswood-bark canoes, 264.
+Bateaux, 264.
+BAT FOWLING NET, 70.
+Baking, recipe for, 253.
+Bay Lynx.--See Wild Cat.
+Beans as food, 235.
+BEAR.--
+  Nature and habits of, 168, 227.
+  Trapping the, 168.
+  Traps for, 17, 29, 143.
+  Various species of, 168.
+  Directions for removing skin, 172.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+"Bear Tamer," 137, 142.
+"Bear Chasing," dangers of the sport, 170.
+[Page 290]
+Bear Grease, 171.
+Bear Meat, to roast, 233.
+  "    " to dry, 237.
+BEAVER.--
+  Nature and habits of, 177.
+  Trapping the, 177.
+  Skinning the, 182.
+  Skin, to tan, 277.
+  Use of fur, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+BEDS AND BEDDING, 248.
+Bed, spring, 248.
+ "   hammock, swinging, 249.
+Bed clothes, 249.
+BIG HORN, the, 220.
+  As food, 220, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 220.
+  Trapping the, 220.
+BIRCH BARK CANOE, remarks on, 226.
+  Directions for making, 261.
+Bird-Catching Net, 70.
+BIRD LIME, 97.
+  Masticated Wheat used as, 99.
+  Recipe for making, 98.
+  Used in capture of Puma, 35.
+  Used for capture of Humming Bird, 99.
+  Used in making Fly-paper, 136.
+  Used with an Owl as decoy, 98.
+  With paper cone, as a Crow trap, 96.
+BIRD TRAPS, 65.
+  "  Box, 88, 90. 91.
+BIRD WHISTLE, 72.
+BISON.--See Buffalo.
+Black Fly.--See "Punkey."
+Blanket, woollen, 250.
+  Rubber, 236.
+  Use of, 250.
+Block-tin, used for kettles, &c., 235.
+Blossom, utilized as a trap, 99.
+Blow-gun, used in the capture of Humming Bird, 99.
+BOARD FLAP, the, 130.
+BOARD STRETCHERS, 273.
+BOATS, remarks on, 226.
+  Manufacture of, 259.
+  The dug-out, or log canoe, 259.
+  The birch-bark canoe, 261.
+  The bateau, 264.
+  The scow, 267.
+  The flat-bottomed boat, 267.
+Boiled Mush, 232.
+    "       to fry, 232.
+Boiling water used in bending wood, 268, 272.
+Book I. TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME, 17.
+    II. SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS, 39.
+   III. TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65.
+    IV. MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103.
+     V. HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125.
+    VI. STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137.
+   VII. THE CAMPAIGN, 225.
+  VIII. THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255.
+Boots, hints on, 228.
+  Grease for, 228.
+Bottle Lantern, 241.
+   "  Match Safe, 234.
+BOW STRETCHER, for skins, 274.
+BOW Traps, 23, 25, 116.
+BOWL TRAPS, 135, 136.
+Box Bird Traps, 55, 88, 90, 91.
+BOX DEAD FALL, 128.
+Box Hut, used in Pickerel fishing, 241.
+BOW OWL TRAP, 88.
+BOX PIT-FALL, 131.
+BOX SNARES, 55, 56.
+BOX TRAP, the, 103.
+  Two modes of setting, 105.
+Box Traps, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110.
+BOX TRAP, pendent, 91.
+Brandy on a trapping campaign, 257.
+Brass wire nooses, 41.
+Brick Trap, 66.
+Broiling, recipes for, 233.
+Brook Trout, fishing through the ice, 240.
+  "   To cook deliciously, 232.
+Bruises, ointment for, 255.
+Buckskin gloves, in handling traps, 149.
+Building the camp fire, 233.
+Buffalo, the, 220.
+  As food, 221, 238,
+  How hunted and trapped, 221.
+Building boats, 259.
+Butternut log, for canoe, 239.
+Butter, to keep on a campaign, 236.
+
+C
+
+Cage traps for birds, 76.
+     "      "  mice, 134.
+Call Birds, how used, 72.
+CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS, 225.
+CAMPAIGN, PLAN OF, 225.
+Camp fire, 228.
+  To build, 233.
+Camp Kettle, 235.
+  "  Knife, 235.
+  "  Stove, 228, 235.
+Canada Grouse, 238.
+   "   Lynx.--See Lynx.
+   "   Moose.--See Moose.
+Candles, in camp, 227.
+  "  Novel way of using, 218.
+[Page 291]
+Canned vegetables, 236.
+CANOES, remarks on, 226.
+  "     Basswood-bark, 264.
+  "     Birch-bark, directions for building, 261.
+  "     Hemlock bark, 264.
+  "     Log.--See Dug-out.
+  "     Spruce bark, 264.
+Canton flannel bags, for bed clothes, 249.
+Canvass-back Duck, as food, 239.
+Canvas bags, waterproof, 236.
+Caps, percussion, used in lighting fire, 234.
+CAPTURE OF ANIMALS, 154.
+CARPETING TENTS, 250.
+CASTOREUM, or Barkstone, 150.
+  How obtained, 150.
+  How used.--See Beaver.
+CASTOREUM COMPOSITION, 150.
+Cat, domestic, use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Cat, wild.--See Wild Cat.
+Caulking boats, 261, 266.
+Caution in baiting steel traps, 113.
+Caution in handling steel traps, 149.
+Chill, remedy for, 257.
+Chimney-fire in log shanty, 245.
+Chip as a plate, 232.
+Chip, for a frying pan, 230, 232.
+Chloride of Lime, as an antidote, 152.
+Choosing a trapping ground, 225.
+Cicely, Sweet, as scent bait in fishing, 240.
+Cities built up by the fur trade, 281.
+CLAP NET, 72.
+Clearing tents and shanties from insects, 230.
+Climate and fur apparel, 284.
+CLOG, THE, 146.
+Cloth for tent making, 247.
+  "  Waterproof preparation for, 247.
+Clothing, hints on, 228.
+Coasting on the Indian sled, 270.
+Cock of the plains, 238.
+Coffee, 236.
+Coffee-pot, 235.
+Cold, remedy for, 257.
+Combination camp-knife, 235.
+COMMON BOX TRAP, 103.
+Compass, pocket, 227.
+Compound scent-bait, 150, 153.
+Concealing steel traps, 229.
+Cone of paper as a trap, 96.
+Corrall, African trap, 34.
+COOKING UTENSILS FOR A CAMPAIGN, 230, 235.
+Coon.--See Raccoon.
+COOP TRAP, 67.
+  " For large game, 33.
+Cotton drilling, used for making tents, 247.
+  "  Waterproof preparation for, 247.
+"Cotton Tail."--See Rabbit.
+Cougar.--See Puma.
+Cow's udder, as fish bait, 240.
+Crackers as food, 236.
+Crow trap, 96.
+CUMMIN, used in trapping, 152.
+Cup, portable, 231.
+CURING SKINS, 272.
+Current price list of American furs, 284.
+
+D
+
+Dark lantern, used by bird catchers, 71.
+  Deer hunters, 217.
+DEAD-FALLS, 17, 29, 107, 111, 113.
+  "  Box, 128.
+  "  For large game, 17.
+  "  How set for the fox, 113.
+  "  Stone, 29.
+  "  Weighted harpoon, 26.
+  "  With figure four trap, 114.
+Dead fish, valuable in making trails, 153.
+Decoys, 72, 76, 94.
+Decoy traps, 72, 76, 94.
+  "  Whistle, 74.
+  "  Owl used as, 98.
+DEER, 124.
+  As food, 233, 237, 238.
+  How to skin the, 219.
+  Hunting at night, 217, 218.
+  Luminosity of eyes at night, 217, 218.
+  Natural characteristics of, 214.
+  Salt as bait for, 218.
+  Season for hunting, 218.
+  Trapping the, 214, 215.
+  Various modes of hunting, 217.
+  Various species of, 215.
+Deer lick, the, 215.
+Deer meat, to dry, 237.
+Deer meat, to roast, 233.
+Delmonico outdone, 232.
+Detecting the direction of the wind by the finger, 217.
+Devices used in connection with the steel trap, 144, 147.
+Devils' Lantern, 241.
+Diet of the Trapper, 230.
+"DOUBLE ENDER," the, 109.
+Double traps, 57, 109, 110, 129.
+DOWN FALL, the, 26.
+Dressing for fur skins, 273, 276.
+Dressing for leather, 228.
+Dressing skins for market, 272.
+  "  Home use, 276.
+Dried fish, 237.
+Dried venison, 237.
+Drilling, as tent material, 247.
+  "  Waterproof preparation for, 247.
+[Page 292]
+Drinking cup, portable, 231.
+Drying skins, 272, 273, 276.
+Ducks, various species of, 239.
+  As food, 239.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+DUCK TRAPS, 94, 95.
+"DUG-OUT," THE, hints on, 226.
+  Detailed directions for making, 259.
+
+E
+
+Eels, oil prepared from, 151.
+Elk.--See Moose.
+"Ephraim."--See Bear.
+Escaping from the mosquitoes, 255.
+Exports of furs, 281, 285.
+Extemporized frying pan, 232.
+  "Toaster," 233.
+Extract of beef, Liebig's, 236.
+Extravagance in fur apparel, 279.
+
+F
+
+False bottom traps, 127, 131, 133.
+Fashion and fur, 279, 283, 285.
+FEATHERED GAME, TRAPS FOR, 65.
+Felt, use of rabbit-fur in making, 286.
+FENNEL, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152.
+FENUGREEK, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152.
+FIGURE FOUR SNARE, 61.
+FIGURE FOUR TRAP, 107.
+  "  Used with Dead-Fall, 114.
+Finger, as a weather vane, 217.
+Fire, to build, 227.
+  "  To light without matches, 234.
+  "  With powder and cap, 234.
+  "  Without "anything," 235.
+Fire arms, 227.
+  "  Oil for, 227.
+Fire bottle, 241.
+Fire Hat for night hunting, 218.
+Fire-proof preparations for tents, 247.
+Fish, to bake, 232.
+  To dry, 237.
+  To fry, 233.
+FISHER MARTEN.--
+  How to trap the animal, 194.
+  Its nature and habits, 194.
+  Its common mode of release from capture, 144.
+  Method of skinning, 195.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+FISH-HOOK, trap for ducks, 95.
+Fishing, hints on, 239.
+  At night, 239.
+  Through the ice, 240.
+  Various baits, 240.
+  With tip-up. 240.
+  For pickerel, 240.
+Fishing tackle, 227, 240, 241.
+Fish lantern, 241.
+FISH OIL, used in the art of trapping, 151.
+  How obtained, 151.
+Fish, scent baits for, 240.
+  Spearing, 239.
+Fish traps, 120, 241.
+Flat bottomed boats, 264, 267.
+Flat bottomed sled.--See Toboggan
+Flat stone, as a frying pan, 232.
+Flower, converted into a trap, 99.
+Fly, black.--See "Punkey."
+FLY-PAPER, to make, 136.
+Fly Tent, the, 246.
+Fly traps, 136.
+Food, portable, 230.
+FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS, 230.
+"FOOLS' CAP" TRAP FOR CROWS, 96.
+Forks, 235.
+Fortunes founded on peltry, 281.
+FOWLING NET, the, 70.
+Fox.--
+  Nature and habits of, 154.
+  Trapping the, 154.
+  Trapped by a dead-fall, 111, 113.
+  Varieties of, 154.
+  Directions for skinning, 158.--See also Red and Silver Fox.
+"Fox fire," used in capture of deer, 218.
+Fritters, pork, to cook, 231.
+Frying pan, 231, 235.
+  "  An extemporized, 232.
+Fur Market, eccentricities of, 283.
+Furs, ancient uses of, 278.
+  Annual yield throughout the world, 281.
+Furs, best season for, 147.
+  "Home," 281.
+  Sale of, by Hudson's Bay Company, 281.
+  "Shipping," 281.
+  Table of market values, 282.
+Fur skins, to cure for market, 272.
+  To tan, 276.
+  Hints on selling for profit, 283.
+  Various uses of, 285.
+FUR TRADE, OBSERVATIONS ON, 278.
+  Immensity of, 281.
+
+G
+
+Game, protected from wolves, 237.
+GAROTTE TRAP, 114.
+Gloves to be used in trapping, 149.
+Glutton.--See Wolverine.
+[Page 293]
+Gnats, 230, 256.
+  Painful effects of their bites, 256.
+  Remedies for their bites, 255.
+  Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
+Gnat, black.--See "Punkey."
+Goose trap, 75.
+GOPHER.--
+  Nature and habits of, 205.
+  Trapping the, 205.
+  Traps for, 119, 120, 40.
+  Directions for skinning, 206.
+Grappling iron, the, 146.
+Grease for boots and shoes, 228.
+"Great Bear Tamer," the, 142.
+GRIZZLY BEAR.--
+  Nature and habits of, 169.
+  Trapping the, 169.
+  Traps for, 17, 142.
+  Use of fur, 285.
+Ground plan of trapping lines, 228.
+Ground, selection for trapping, 225,
+GROUND SNARES, 44.
+Grouse, as food, 233, 238.
+  Bait for, 42.
+  Oil of, for fire arms, 227.
+  Peculiarities of, 42.
+  Snares for, 39.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+  Various species of, 238.
+GUN TRAP, 20.
+
+H
+
+Hair Nooses, 41.
+Half tent, 246.
+Hammocks, 250,
+Hammock bed, 249.
+Handling steel traps, caution in, 149.
+Hanging bed, 249.
+Hare.--See Rabbit.
+HARPOON TRAP of Africa, 26.
+Hat Brim, portable, 258.
+  Netting attachment for, 258.
+Hat lantern for night hunting, 218.
+Hawk snare, 43.
+HAWK TRAP, 93.
+Head lantern used in deer hunting, 218.
+HEAD NET, 257.
+HEDGE NOOSES, 41.
+Hemlock bark canoes, 264.
+Hemlock boughs, as bedding, 250.
+Hemp, used in caulking boats, 261, 266.
+"Hiding" steel traps, 229.
+High top boots, 228.
+Hints on baiting the steel trap, 143.
+Hints on selection of trapping ground, 225.
+Hints on skinning animals, 272.
+Hints on trapping, 148.
+Hints on plans of trapping lines, 228.
+Hints on sale of furs, 283.
+Hippopotamus trap, 26.
+Historical items relating to furs and the fur trade, 278.
+Hoe cake, to cook, 232.
+Hogs carried off by bears, 170.
+Hog's liver used as fish bait, 240.
+"Home Furs," 281.
+HOME-MADE BOAT, 264.
+Honey as bait, 19, 31, 170.
+Hook trap for ducks, 95.
+Hopo, African trap, 34.
+Hoop nooses, 40.
+HOOP STRETCHER for skins, 275.
+Horse hair nooses, to make, 41.
+Hot drink for chills, 257.
+HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125.
+House Tent, 247.
+How to select a steel trap, 138.
+HOW TO TRAP, 153.
+Hudson Bay Company, origin of, 280.
+  Sales of, 281, 282.
+Humming bird, killed by concussion, 99.
+  "  Snare, 99.
+  "  Trap, 99.
+  "  Various modes of capture, 99.
+Hunting the deer, 217.
+Hunting from trees, 218.
+HUT, LOG.--See Log Shanty.
+
+I
+
+Implements required on a trapping campaign, 227.
+Improved springle, 60.
+INDIAN CANOE.--See BIRCH BARK CANOE.
+Indian meal, as food, 231.
+INDIAN SLEDGE.--See Toboggan.
+INDIAN SNOW SHOE, 268.
+India-rubber blanket, 236.
+  How used, 250.
+INSECT OINTMENTS, 255.
+Insect bites, remedies for, 255.
+  "  Sores resulting from, 257.
+Insects, to drive out from tent or shanty, 230, 256.
+Intemperance, 257.
+
+J
+
+Jack knife, a valuable tool, 227. Jar, as a trap, 135.
+[Page 294]
+Jar, air-tight, for butter, 236.
+"Jerked Venison," 231.
+JOHN JACOB ASTOR, and the fur trade, 281.
+Johnny cake, to cook, 232.
+
+K
+
+Kettle, camp, 235.
+Knapsack, 234.
+  Directions for making, 236.
+Knife, a necessary implement, 227.
+Knife, the combination camp, 235.
+Knives, table, 235.
+
+L
+
+Lake trout, fishing for, 240.
+  To cook deliciously, 232.
+Lantern for the head, used by deer hunters, 218.
+Lantern used by bird catchers, 71.
+Lantern trap for fish, 241.
+Large game, traps for, 17.
+LAVENDER, used in the art of trapping, 152.
+Leather preservative, 228.
+"Le Chat."--See Lynx.
+Lemonade, 236.
+Lens, to light fire with, 234.
+Lever for setting large steel traps, 142.
+Liebig's extract of beef, 236.
+Light, the trapper's, 227.
+Light for the head in night hunting, 218.
+Light home-made boat, 264.
+Lime, chloride of, as a disinfectant, 152.
+Liniment for wounds and bruises, 255.
+  "  Insect bites, 255.
+Linseed oil, used as bird lime, 98.
+Lion, American.--See Puma.
+LIST OF PRICES OF AMBRICAN FURS, 284.
+Liver, as fish bait, 240.
+LOG CABIN.--See Log Shanty.
+Log Canoe.--See Dug-Out.
+LOG COOP TRAP, 33.
+LOG SHANTY, hints on, 226, 229.
+  Detailed directions for building, 244.
+  Site for building, 244, 287.
+  To clear of gnats and mosquitoes, 230.
+Lucifer Matches.--See Matches.
+"Luxuries," 234.
+LYNX, THE CANADIAN, 164.
+  Natural characteristics of, 164.
+  Trapping the, 164.
+  Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 33, 35, 141.
+LYNX.--
+  Directions for skinning, 166.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+
+M
+
+Mackinaw and the Fur Trade, 281.
+Mallard Duck as food, 239.
+  "  to Cook.--See Duck.
+MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS, 281.
+Marmot.--See Woodchuck.
+MARTEN:--
+  Nature and habits of, 192.
+  Trapping the, 192.
+  Its common mode of escape, 144.
+  Directions for removing skin, 194.
+  How to tan the Skin, 277.
+  Value and use of skin, 284, 285.
+Mastic Varnish used in water-proofing, 234.
+MATCHES, 227.
+  Bottle used for carrying, 234.
+  To render water-proof, 234.
+Meal, Indian, as food, 231.
+Meat, to dry, 237.
+"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS, 149.
+Menagerie Whistle, 74.
+Merganser, the, as food, 239,
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+MIDGETS, 256.
+  Painful effect of their bites, 256.
+  Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
+  Ointments for bites, 255.
+  Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
+MINK:--
+  Nature and habits of, 189.
+  Trapping the, 189.
+  Traps for, 43, 141.
+  Its common mode of escape from the steel trap, 144.
+  Directions for skinning, 191.
+  To tan skin of, 277.
+  Extensive use of skins in America, 281.
+  Uses of skin, 285.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+MISCELLANEOUS hints on trapping, 148.
+MISCELLANY, the Trapper's, 255,
+MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103.
+MOLE, 207.
+  Beauty of fur, 209, 211.
+  Life and habits of, 207.
+  Trapping the, 119, 210.
+  Traps for, 119, 120, 140.
+  Varieties of, 211.
+  Directions for skinning.--See Gopher.
+  Use of fur, 286.
+[Page 295]
+Montreal and the Fur Trade, 281.
+MOOSE:--
+  Nature and habits of, 219.
+  Trapping the, 220.
+  "Yards," 220.
+  Flesh as food, 220, 223, 238.
+  How to skin the animal, 220.
+Moose meat, to roast, 233.
+  "  Meat to dry, 237.
+MOSQUITOES, 230.
+  Painful effects of their bites, 257.
+  Ointments for bites, 255.
+  Driven away by the "Smudge," 230.
+  Adirondack experiences with, 255, 256.
+  Head-net, 257.
+  Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
+Mouse Traps, 124, 130, 131, 134, 135.
+Mud Stick or Pusher, 267.
+Mush, to boil, 232.
+  to fry, 232.
+MUSK:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 151.
+  How obtained, 151.
+MUSKRAT:--
+  Nature and habits of, 182.
+  Pit-fall Trap for, 133.
+  Spearing the, 183.
+  Trapping the, 182.
+  Traps for, 43, 107, 110, 111, 114, 133, 141.
+  Its common mode of release, 144.
+  Extensive use of skins in America, 281.
+  Skin, to remove, 185.
+    To tan, 277.
+    Use of, 286.
+    Value of, 284.
+Muscovy Duck as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+Musquaw.--See Bear.
+
+N
+
+Natural Advantages utilized by the Trapper, 149.
+Natural History.
+  Necessity of its study in the art of Trapping, 148.
+Neatsfoot Oil for Fire Arms, 227.
+NET:--
+  " Bat fowling, 70.
+  " Bird catching, 70.
+  " Clap, 72.
+  " Decoy, 72.
+  " Fish, use of, 241.
+Net for the head, 257.
+  "  Fowling, 70.
+Net traps, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85.
+  For Tiger, Puma, or Wild Cat, 35.
+  Spring, 80.
+  The upright, 85.
+  Wild Duck, 94.
+  Wild Goose, 175.
+Netting attachment for Hat brim, 258.
+NEWHOUSE TRAP, THE, 138.
+Night-hunting, 217, 218.
+Night-fishing, 239.
+Nooses:--
+  Horse hair, 41.
+  In hedge, 42.
+  On hoops, 40.
+  On string, 40.
+NOOSE TRAPS, 39.
+Nooses, wire, 41.
+Northwest Fur Company, 280.
+Nutting in Mid-winter, 212.
+
+O
+
+Oar-locks, simple, 266.
+Oat-meal as food, 236.
+OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE, 278.
+Oil, Fish.--
+  Used in trapping, 151.
+  How obtained, 151.
+Oil of Amber.--
+  Used in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Ambergris.--
+  Used in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Anise:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Cinnamon:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Fennel:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Fenugreek:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Lavender:--
+  Its use in the art of trapping, 152.
+Oil of Rhodium:--
+  Its use by trappers, 151.
+Oil of Skunk:--
+  Its use by trappers, 151.
+Oil:--
+  For fire arms, 227.
+  For light, 227.
+Oil of Partridge:--
+  Its use, 227.
+Oil of Pennyroyal:--
+  For insect bite, 255.
+[Page 296]
+Ointment for Bruises and Wounds, 255.
+OINTMENT FOR INSECT BITES, 255.
+OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE, 58.
+Olive Oil in cooking, 236.
+OPOSSUM, 201.
+  Nature and habits of, 202.
+  Trapping the, 201.
+  Hunting the, 202.
+  Directions for skinning, 203.
+  Uses of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+OTTER:--
+  Nature and habits of, 202.
+  Trapping the, 186.
+  Directions for skinning, 189.
+  How to tan the skin, 277.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+OWL TRAP, 88.
+Owl:--
+  Used in connection with bird lime as decoy, 98.
+
+P
+
+Paint as a water-proof covering, 236.
+Painter, the.--See Puma.
+Panther, the.--See Puma.
+Paper Cone used as a trap, 96.
+Partridge, 42, 238.
+  As food, 238.
+  Fat for fire arms, 227.
+  Snares, 39, etc.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+Peltry:--
+  Fortunes founded on, 281.
+  Cities built up on, 281.
+PENDENT BOX, BIRD TRAP, 91.
+Pennyroyal for insect bites, 255.
+Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257.
+Percussion Cap used in lighting lire, 234.
+Peshoo, the.--See Lynx.
+Phosphorescent wood used in night-hunting, 218.
+Phosphorus lantern for catching fish, 241.
+Pickerel fishing, 240.
+  "  Spearing, 241.
+  "  Trap for, 121.
+  "  To cook, 233.
+Pigeon Net-trap, 72.
+Pigs carried off by Bears, 170.
+Pine Log Canoe.--See Dug-out.
+Pinnated Grouse, 238.
+Pitch for stopping leaks, 261, 264, 266.
+PIT-FALL TRAPS.--
+  For large game, 31.
+  For small game, 125, 127, 131.
+  Barrel, 127.
+  Box, 131.
+  For Muskrat, 133.
+PLAN OF TRAPPING CAMPAIGN, 225.
+Plates, substitutes for, 232, 235.
+Platform snare. 61.
+Poachers, or trap robbers, 229.
+POACHER'S SNARE, 48.
+Pocket compass, 227.
+POCKET HAT BRIM, 258.
+  "  Sun-glass, 234.
+Poisoned arrows, 26.
+POISONING, 222.
+Pop-corn as bait for Quail, 54.
+Portable boats, 259.
+Portable food & cooking utensils, 230, 235.
+Portable drinking cup, 231.
+  Hat brim, 258.
+   " With netting attached, 258.
+  Snares, 50, 52.
+  Stove, 228, 235.
+Pork as food, 231.
+  "  Fritters, 251.
+  "     "  To make, 232.
+"Possum."--See Opossum.
+Potatoes as food, 235.
+Pouched Rat.--See Gopher.
+Powder used in lighting fire, 234.
+Prairie Hen, 238.
+Prairie Whistle, 74.
+Precautions in handling steel traps, 156.
+PREFACE, 3.
+Preparation of skins for market, 272.
+Preserve jar used as trap, 135.
+Price Current of American Furs, 284.
+Prime fur, best season for, 147.
+Prof. Blot outdone in cooking, 232.
+Profit in selling furs, 233.
+PRONGHORN Antelope, 221.
+  Nature and habits of, 221.
+  How hunted and trapped, 221, 238.
+Provisions, to protect from Wolves, 237.
+Ptarmigan, to cook, 233.
+  Trap for, 75.
+  How hunted and trapped, 239.
+  Various species of, 230.
+PUMA:--
+  Bait for, 20, 31, 32, 163.
+  Nature and habits of, 161.
+  Peculiarities of, 20.
+  Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 31, 33, 141.
+  Trapping the, 161.
+  Directions for skinning, 164.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Pumice Stone, used in finishing skins, 276.
+"PUNKEY."--
+  Description of the Insect, 256.
+  Severity of bites, 256.
+  Ointment for bites, 255.
+  Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257.
+[Page 297]
+Punk Tinder, used in lighting fire, 234. "Pusher."--See Mud stick.
+Putty, for stopping leaks, 261.
+
+Q
+
+Quail, bait for, 40, 54.
+  "  Snares, 39, 40, 41, etc.
+  To cook deliciously, 233.
+Quotations of the Fur Market, 284.
+
+R
+
+RABBIT:--
+  As food, 238.
+  Bait for, 203.
+  How to skin, 204.
+  Nature and habits of, 203.
+  Salt as bait for, 109,
+  Traps for, 43, 64, 103.
+  Use of fur, 286.
+  Value of fur, 284.
+  Varieties of, 203.
+RACCOON:--
+  As a pet, 173.
+  Nature and habits of, 172.
+  Trapping the, 172.
+  Traps for, 110, 116, 141.
+  Hunting the, 172.
+  Directions for skinning, 175.
+  How to tan the skin, 277.
+  Use of the fur, 285.
+  Value of the fur, 284.
+Rat:--
+  Snares for, 43.
+  Trapping the, 125.
+  Traps for, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138.
+Rations for a Campaign, 230.
+Raw Furs.--See Furs.
+Recipe for insect ointments, 255.
+  Boot grease, 228.
+  For cooking, 230.
+  For curing skins, 272.
+  For tanning skins, 276.
+Red Fox.--See Fox.
+Red Fox.--
+  Value of skin, 284.
+  Use of skin, 285.
+Red Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257.
+Red Squirrel.--See Squirrel.
+Remedies for insect bites, 255.
+  For chills, 257.
+Requisites of a good steel trap, 138.
+  "  For snaring, 39.
+  "  For a good trapping ground, 225.
+  "  For a trapping campaign, 227.
+Revolver, 227.
+Reynard outwitted by a dead-fall, 111, 113.
+RHODIUM, Oil of:--
+  Its use by the trapper, 151.
+Rice as food, 236.
+Rifle and Shot Gun combined, 227.
+  Oil for, 227.
+RIFLE TRAP, 20.
+Roasting, recipes for, 233.
+Rocky Mountain Sheep.--See Big Horn.
+"Roughing it," 230.
+Rubber blanket, 236.
+  How used, 250.
+Ruffed Grouse.--See Partridge.
+Rum on a trapping campaign, 257.
+
+S
+
+Sage Cock, the, 238.
+Sale of furs by the Hudson's Bay Company, 282.
+Salmon, spearing, 239.
+  "  Spear, 239.
+Salmon Trout, spearing, 239.
+Salmon, to cook deliciously, 232.
+Salt as bait for Deer, 218.
+  As bait for Rabbit, 109.
+Salt Lick, the, 218.
+Sandpaper used in softening skins, 276.
+Salt Pork as food, 231.
+SCENT BAITS, 149.
+  "  Compound, 150, 153.
+Scented baits for birds, 240.
+Scented baits for fish, 240.
+Season for Deer hunting, 218.
+Scow, 267.
+Season for trapping, 147.
+Selection of trapping ground, 225.
+Self-amputation as a means of escape with captured animals, 144.
+Self-amputation, to prevent, 144, 145.
+Self-raising flour, 235.
+SELF-SETTING TRAPS, 110, 125, 127, 131.
+SHANTY:--
+  Bark.--See Bark Shanty.
+  "Home."--See Log Shanty.
+  Log.--See Log Shanty.
+Sheeting as tent material, 247.
+  Water-proof, preparation for, 247.
+Shellac Varnish used in water-proofing, 234.
+SHELTER:--The trapper's remarks on, 226.
+Shelter tent, 247.
+  Details of construction, 242.
+Shingle stretchers for skins, 274.
+[Page 298]
+"Shipping furs," 281.
+SHOOTING AND POISONING, 222.
+Shot-gun Trap, 20.
+Shot-gun combined with rifle, 267.
+Shoulder basket, 234, 226.
+SIEVE TRAP, 65.
+Silver Fox, 154.
+  Value of skin, 284, 285.
+Skinning animals, hints on, 272.
+Skins:--
+  Stretchers for, 273.
+  To dry, 272, 276.
+  To soften, 276, 277.
+  To tan, 276.
+  Value of, 284.
+  Use of, 285.
+SKUNK, 195.
+  Adventure with, 196.
+  As food, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 195.
+  Trapping the, 195.
+  Traps for, 43, 111, 114, 141.
+  To eradicate odor of, 152, 198.
+  Oil of, used in trapping, 151.
+  Directions for skinning, 198.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Sled, Indian.--See Toboggan.
+SLIDING POLE, 145.
+Slippery Elm used for bird-lime, 98.
+"Small Game" as food, 237.
+Smell, acute sense of, in animals, 148.
+Smoking the steel trap, 128.
+Smouldering birch bark to drive away insects, 230.
+Smudge, the, 230, 256.
+SNARE.--
+  Box, 55.
+  Double box, 56.
+  Fig. Four, 62.
+  Hawk, 43.
+  Hedge, 42.
+  Hoop, 40.
+  Humming-bird, 99.
+  Knotted string, 52, 53, 54.
+  Pasteboard box, 56.
+  Platform, 61.
+  Poacher's, 48.
+  Portable, 48, 50, 52.
+  Quail, 53.
+  Rat, 43.
+  "Simplest," 52.
+  Springle, 58, 60.
+  Stovepipe, 120.
+  Tree, 42.
+  Triangle, 42.
+  Twitchup, 43.
+  Wood Chuck, 43.
+SNARES, OR NOOSE TRAPS, 37.
+Snaring, requisites for, 39.
+Snow Grouse, the, 238.
+SNOW-SHOES, 267.
+Snow-shoe race, 267.
+Softening skins, 276, 277.
+Sores resulting from insect bites, 257.
+Soups, recipes for, 236.
+Spearing fish, 239, 241.
+Spearing Muskrats, 183.
+Spider for cooking, 233.
+Spoons, 235.
+Spring-bed, 249.
+SPRINGLE, 58, 60.
+Spring-net Traps, 80.
+Spring-pole, the, 144.
+Spring, to temper, 84.
+Spruce Bark Canoes, 264.
+Spruce boughs as bedding, 250.
+Spruce Grouse, 238.
+SQUIRRELS, 211.
+  As food, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 211.
+  Traps for, 43, 103, 106, 107, 110, 116, 128, 140.
+  Various species of, 213.
+  To cook, 233.
+  Use of skins, 286.
+STEEL TRAPS, 137.
+  Caution in handling, 149.
+  Concealing in the woods, 229,
+  Various modes of setting, 144.
+  Requisite number for a campaign, 227.
+  To set for rats, 128.
+  To select judiciously, 138.
+  Requisites of, 138.
+  Hints on baiting, 143.
+Steel Trap spring, to set with lever, 142.
+STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137.
+Still hunting, 217.
+Stimulants, 257.
+Stone Dead-fall, 29.
+Storing traps in the woods, 229.
+Stove, portable, 228, 235.
+Stovepipe fish-trap, 120.
+St. Paul, Minn., and the Fur Trade, 281.
+STRETCHERS FOR SKINS, 273.
+Strychnine poisoning, 222.
+Sucker wire nooses, 41.
+Sugar of lead used in water-proofing, 247.
+Sun-glass, 234, 235,
+Sweet Cicely as bait for fish, 240.
+SWEET FENNEL.--
+  Oil used in trapping, 152,
+Sweet Oil and Tar Ointment for insect bites, 255.
+Swinging bed, 249.
+
+[Page 299]
+T
+
+Table knife and bowl trap, 135.
+Table showing sale of furs by Hudson Bay Company, 282.
+Tallow, mutton, as ointment, 255.
+Tame Geese as decoys, 75.
+TANNING SKINS, 276.
+  Mixtures, 276, 277, 278.
+  With the hair on, 276.
+  Simple, 278.
+Tar and Sweet Oil ointment for insect bites, 255.
+Tar for water-proofing, 264.
+Tea, 236.
+ " Red pepper, as a remedy, 257.
+Teal Ducks as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+"Telescope" Drinking Cup, 231.
+Tempering iron spring, 84.
+TENTS, 246.
+  House-tent, 246.
+  Fly-tent, 247.
+  Half-tent, 247.
+  Shelter-tent, 247.
+  Materials, 247.
+  Water-proof preparation for, 247.
+  Fire-proof preparation for, 247.
+  To carpet with spruce, 250.
+  To clear of gnats and musquitoes, 230.
+TENT CARPETING, 250.
+Thimble used with bowl as Mouse trap, 136.
+Tiger captured with bird lime, 35.
+Tiger trap, 31.
+Tinder, 234.
+Tip-ups, 240.
+Toaster, an extemporized, 233.
+TOBOGGAN, OR INDIAN SLEDGE, 269.
+Tools required on a trapping campaign, 227.
+Tools required for canoe building, 259.
+Torch for the head, used in night hunting, 218.
+"Touch-wood " used in lighting fire, 234.
+Trail. The.--
+  Its value to the trapper, 153.
+  Various modes of making, 153.
+TRAP.--
+  Arrow, 23, 25.
+  Barrel. 125, 127.
+  Bird, 65, 70, 73, 75, 88, 90, 91, 96.
+  Bow, 23, 25, 116.
+  Bowl, 135.
+  Box, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110.
+  Brick, 66.
+  Cage, 76, 134.
+  Cob house, 67.
+  Coon, 110, 116, 141.
+  Coop, 33, 67, 70.
+  Crow, 96.
+  Dead-fall, 17, 107, 111.
+  Decoy, 72, 76, 94.
+  Double ender, 109.
+  Down-fall, 26.
+  Duck, 94, 95.
+  Fish, 120.
+  Fish hook, 95.
+  Fly, 136.
+  Fool's-cap, 96.
+  Garotte, 114.
+  Gun, 20.
+  Harpoon, 26.
+  Hawk, 42, 93.
+  Hook, 95.
+  Jar, 135.
+  Mole, 119, 120.
+  Mouse, 130, 131, 134, 135.
+  Net, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85.
+  Owl, 88.
+  Partridge, 43, etc.
+  Pendent Box, 91.
+  Pitfall, 11, 125, 127, 131.
+  Ptarmigan, 75.
+  Quail, 39, 40, 41, 53.
+  Rabbit, 43, 64, 103.
+  Rat, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138.
+  Rifle, 20.
+  Self-setting, 110, 125, 127, 131.
+  Sieve, 65.
+  Spring net, 80, 83, 85.
+  Steel, 140.
+  The "Newhouse," 140.
+  Tree, 42, 91.
+  Upright net, 85.
+  Wild Duck, 94, 95.
+  Wild Goose, 75.
+  Woodchuck, 43.
+Trapper's beds and bedding, 248.
+  "  Cooking utensils, 230.
+  "  Diet, 230.
+TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255.
+  "  Shelter, 226, 242.
+  "  Sled.--See Toboggan.
+TRAPPING, art of, 148.
+  Season for, 147.
+  Miscellaneous hints on, 148.
+  Campaign, plan of, 225.
+    Tools and other requisites, 227.
+    Ground, selection of, 225.
+  Valuable suggestions on, 228.
+Trapping Lines, 226.
+Trap robbers, 220.
+Traps for large game, 17.
+[Page 300]
+  FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65.
+  HOUSEHOLD, 125.
+Tree hunting, 218.
+Tree snare, 42.
+  "  Traps, 42, 91.
+TRIANGLE SNARE, 42.
+Trout, to cook deliciously, 232.
+Trumpet Creeper flower used as a trap, 99.
+Tumbler fly-trap, 136.
+Twitch-up, 43, 62.
+  Poacher's, 48.
+  Portable, 50.
+  "Simplest," 52.
+
+U
+
+UPRIGHT NET TRAP, 85.
+  "  Snares 44, 58.
+Use and abuse of Alcohol, 257.
+Uses of fur skins, 285.
+Utensils for cooking, 230, 235.
+
+V
+
+Value of fur skins, table of, 262.
+Various uses of fur skins, 285.
+Varnish water-proof preparation for preserving matches, 234.
+Vegetables for food on a campaign, 235.
+  "  Canned, 236.
+Venison as food, 233, 237.
+  To roast, 233.
+  To preserve, 237.
+  "Jerked," 237.
+  Dried, 237.
+
+W
+
+Walking on the snow, 267.
+War in the fur trade, 281.
+Watch crystal as sun glass, 287.
+Water fowl as food, 239.
+Water-proof application for boats, 261, 264, 266.
+  "  Canvas bags, for food, 236.
+Match safe, 234.
+  "  Preparation, 236, 247, 266.
+  "  Varnish for matches, 234.
+Water traps, 110, 120.
+Wedge stretcher for skins, 274.
+Weighted harpoon trap, 26.
+Wheaten grits as trappers' food, 236.
+Wheat flour as food, 235.
+  "  Self-raising, 235.
+Wheel form of trapping lines, 229.
+Whiskey on a trapping campaign, 257.
+Whip lashes from Woodchuck hide, 204.
+Whistlebird, 74.
+White Birch Canoe, 261.
+White-wood log for Dug-out, 259.
+Widgeon, the, as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+WILD CAT:--
+  Nature and habits of, 167.
+  Snares for, 43.
+  Trapping the, 166.
+  Skinning the, 168.
+  Uses of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+Wild Duck, to cook, 233.
+Wild Duck, traps, 94, 95.
+Wild Goose as food, 239.
+Wild Goose to cook, 233.
+Wild Goose trap, 75.
+Wind, direction of, to detect by the finger, 217.
+Winged vermin, 255.
+Winter fishing, 240.
+Wire cage trap for birds, 76.
+  "    "  For mice, 134.
+Wire nooses, 41.
+WOLF.--
+  Nature and habits of, 158.
+  Trapping the, 158.
+  Poisoning the, 222.
+  Traps for, 20, 141.
+  To protect provisions from, 237.
+  Varieties of, 158.
+  Directions for skinning, 161.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+WOLVERINE:--
+  Nature and habits of, 199, 238.
+  Trapping the, 199.
+  Natural enemy to the Beaver, 200.
+  Directions for skinning, 201.
+  Use of skin, 286.
+  Value of skin, 284.
+WOODCHUCK, 204.
+  As food, 238.
+  Nature and habits of, 204.
+  Snare, 205.
+  Trapping the, 204.
+  Use of skin, 204.
+  Smoked from its burrow, 205.
+  Removing skin of, 205.
+Woodcock, to cook, 233.
+Wood Duck as food, 239.
+  To cook.--See Duck.
+Woodland beds and bedding, 249.
+Wounds, ointment for, 255.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks
+of Trapping and Trap Making, by William Hamilton Gibson
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