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diff --git a/old/20051118-17093.txt b/old/20051118-17093.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..14ed0e9 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/20051118-17093.txt @@ -0,0 +1,12401 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of +Trapping and Trap Making, by William Hamilton Gibson + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net + + +Title: Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making + +Author: William Hamilton Gibson + +Release Date: November 18, 2005 [EBook #17093] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS *** + + + + +Produced by Robert J. Hall + + + + +[Illustration] + + + + +CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS + +AND THE + +TRICKS OF TRAPPING + +AND + +TRAP MAKING + + +CONTAINING + +COMPREHENSIVE HINTS ON CAMP SHELTER, LOG HUTS, BARK SHANTIES, WOODLAND +BEDS AND BEDDING, BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, AND VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS +ON TRAPPERS' FOOD, ETC. WITH EXTENDED CHAPTERS ON THE TRAPPER'S +ART, CONTAINING ALL THE "TRICKS" AND VALUABLE BAIT RECIPES OF THE +PROFESSION; FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE USE OF THE STEEL TRAP, AND +FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF TRAPS OF ALL KINDS; DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS +FOR THE CAPTURE OF ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS; VALUABLE RECIPES FOR +THE CURING AND TANNING OF FUR SKINS, ETC., ETC. + + +BY W. HAMILTON GIBSON + +AUTHOR OF "PASTORAL DAYS" + + +_ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR_ + + + + +[Page 1] +TO MY BELOVED FRIENDS + +MR. AND MRS. F. W. GUNN, + +KIND INSTRUCTORS, AND PARTICIPANTS + +IN THE + +BRIGHTEST JOYS OF MY YOUTH, + +THIS BOOK IS + +AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY + +THE AUTHOR. + + + + +[Page 3] +[Illustration] + +PREFACE + +[Illustration: O]f all the various subjects in the catalogue of sports +and pastimes, there is none more sure of arousing the enthusiasm of +our American boys generally, than that which forms the title of +this book. Traps and Trapping, together with its kindred branches, +always have been and always _will_ be subjects of great interest +among boys, and particularly so to those who live in the country. + +It is a fact to be regretted that we have so few examples of "Boys' +Books" published in this country. There are a few English works +of this character, that are very excellent as far as they go, but +are nevertheless incomplete and unsatisfactory to the wants of +American boys, dwelling largely on sports which are essentially +English, and merely touching upon or utterly excluding _other_ +topics which are of the _utmost_ interest to boys of this country. +In no one of these books, so far as the author of the present volume +knows, is the subject of Traps considered to any fair extent, and +those examples which are given, represent only the most common +and universal varieties already known to the general public. + +[Page 4] +With these facts in mind, the author has entered with zealous enthusiasm +upon the preparation of a work which shall fill this odd and neglected +corner in literature, and judging from the reminiscences of his +own boyish experiences, he feels certain that in placing such a +volume within reach of the public, he supplies a long felt want +in the hearts of his boy-friends throughout the land. + +Far be it from us in the publication of this volume, to be understood +as encouraging the wanton destruction of poor innocent animals. Like +all kindred sports, hunting and fishing for example, the sport of +Trapping may be perverted and carried to a point where it becomes +simple cruelty, as is _always_ the case when pursued for the mere +_excitement_ it brings. If the poor victims are to serve no use +after their capture, either as food, or in the furnishing of their +plumage or skins for useful purposes, the sport becomes heartless +cruelty, and we do not wish to be understood as encouraging it +under any such circumstances. In its _right_ sense trapping is +a delightful, healthful, and legitimate sport, and we commend it +to all our boy-readers. + +It shall be the object of the author to produce a thoroughly _practical_ +volume, presenting as far as possible such examples of the trap +kind as any boy, with a moderate degree of ingenuity, could easily +construct, and furthermore to illustrate each variety with the +utmost plainness, supplemented with the most detailed description. + +With the exception of all "clap-trap," our volume will embrace +nearly every known example of the various devices used for the +capture of Bird, Beast, or Fowl, in all countries, simplifying such +as are impracticable on account of their complicated structure, +and modifying others to the peculiar adaptation of the American +Trapper. + +Devices, which inflict cruelty and prolonged suffering, shall, +as far as possible, be excluded, as this is not a necessary +qualification in any trap, and should be guarded against wherever +possible. Following out the suggestion conveyed under the +[Page 5] +title of "The Trapper," we shall present full and ample directions +for baiting traps, selections of ground for setting, and other +hints concerning the trapping of all our principal game and wild +animals, valuable either as food or for their fur. In short, our +book shall form a complete trapper's guide, embracing all necessary +information on the subject, anticipating every want, and furnishing +the most complete and fully illustrated volume on this subject +ever presented to the public. In vain did the author of this work, +in his younger days, search the book stores and libraries in the +hopes of finding such a book, and many are the traps and snares +which necessity forced him to invent and construct for himself, for +want of just such a volume. Several of these original inventions +will appear in the present work for the first time in book form, +and the author can vouch for their excellence, and he might almost +say, their infallibility, for in their perfect state he has never +yet found them to "miss" in a single instance. + +As the writer's mind wanders back to his boyish days, there is +one autumn in particular which shines out above all the rest; and +that was when his traps were first set and were the chief source +of his enjoyment. The adventurous excitement which sped him on in +those daily tramps through the woods, and the buoyant, exhilarating +effect of the exercise can be realized only by those who have had the +same experience. The hope of success, the fears of disappointment, +the continual suspense and wonder which fill the mind of the young +trapper, all combine to invest this sport with a charm known to no +other. Trapping does not consist merely in the manufacture and setting +of the various traps. The study of the habits and peculiarities of +the different game--here becomes a matter of great importance; +and the study of natural history under these circumstances affords +a continual source of pleasure and profit. + +Among the most useful, although the most cruel, of inventions used +by the professional trapper are the steel traps; so much so that +the author would gladly omit them. But as they are of such unfailing +[Page 6] +action, of such universal efficacy, and in many cases are the only +ones that can be used, any book on trapping would certainly be +incomplete without them. The scope of our volume not only embraces +the arts of trapping and trap-making, but extends further into the +subject of the wild life of a trapping campaign,--containing full +directions for building log cabins, and shanties; boats and canoes; +hints on food and cooking utensils; also full directions for the +curing and tanning of fur skins,--in short, a complete repository of +all useful information pertaining to the life and wants of a +professional trapper. + +In the preparation of the work no pains have been spared to insure +clearness in general directions, and every point which would be +likely to puzzle the reader has been specially covered by separate +illustration. In this particular it stands unique in the list of +boys' books. Every difficulty has been anticipated, and in every +instance the illustrations will be found thoroughly comprehensive +and complete. That the care and thoroughness which has been displayed +throughout the work, and to which its pages will bear witness, +may meet with the appreciation and enthusiastic approval of every +boy-reader throughout the land, is the most earnest hope of + +THE AUTHOR. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Page iii] +[Illustration: CONTENTS] + +BOOK I. + +TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. + +Introduction.--THE DEAD FALL.--Honey as Bait for Bears.--THE GUN +TRAP.--Peculiar Habits of the Puma.--"Baiting" for the Puma.--Caution +required in Setting the Gun Trap.--Several Guns used.--Different +Modes of Setting.--Various animals to which the Gun Trap is +adapted.--THE BOW TRAP.--Vane and Barb for Arrows.--Best Wood for +Bow.--A Second Example of Bow Trap.--Arrows Barbed and Poisoned.--THE +DOWN FALL; or Hippopotamus Trap.--The terrible Harpoon used by +the African Trapper.--Different Modes of Setting the Down +Fall.--Modification of the Down Fall for small animals.--THE BEAR +TRAP.--Various Methods of Setting.--Honey as Bait for Bear.--Bait +for Puma.--THE PITFALL.--Use of the Trap in Asia as a means of +defence against the Tiger.--Disposition of the Bait.--Wonderful +agility of the Puma.--Niceties required in the construction of +the Pitfall.--THE LOG COOP TRAP.--Various animals for which it +is adapted.--Different Modes of Setting.--THE CORRALL OR HOPO of +Africa.--Its Construction and Appalling Effects.--THE NET TRAP.--Its +Use in the Capture of the Lion and the Tiger.--American animals to +which it may be adapted.--Two Methods of Setting.--BIRD LIME.--Its +Use for the Capture of the Lion and Tiger. + +[Page iv] +BOOK II. + +SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. + +General Remarks.--Requisite Materials for Snaring.--THE QUAIL +SNARE.--"Sucker Wire" Nooses.--Six Quail caught at a time.--HOOP +NOOSES.--HORSE HAIR NOOSES.--HEDGE NOOSES.--Peculiarities of the +Grouse.--Selection of Ground.--THE TRIANGLE TREE SNARE.--A Hawk +captured by the device.--The Wire Noose, as arranged for the capture +of the Woodchuck, Muskrat, and House Rat.--THE TWITCH-UP.--Selection +of Ground for Setting.--Various Modes of Constructing the Traps.--THE +POACHERS' SNARE.--Its portability.--THE PORTABLE SNARE.--Its Peculiar +Advantages.--The "Simplest" Snare.--The valuable principle on which +it is Constructed.--Its Portability.--Various Adaptations of the +Principle.--THE QUAIL SNARE.--Its ample capabilities of +Capture.--Peculiarities of the Quail.--Successful Baits.--THE BOX +SNARE.--Modification in a very small scale.--THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.--The +Animals for which it is Adapted.--GROUND SNARES.--THE OLD-FASHIONED +SPINGLE.--THE IMPROVED SPINGLE.--Objections to Ground Snares.--THE +FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.--THE PLATFORM SNARE. + +BOOK III. + +TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. + +THE SIEVE TRAP.--THE BRICK TRAP.--THE COOP TRAP--Improved Method +of Setting.--Defects of the old style.--THE BAT FOWLING NET.--Its +Use in England.--How the Dark Lantern is Used by Bird Catchers.--THE +CLAP NET.--Its Extensive Use in Foreign Countries.--Decoy Birds.--The +"Bird Whistle" used in place of decoy.--Wonderful Skill attained in +the Use of the Bird Whistle.--Selection of Trapping Ground.--THE +BIRD WHISTLE Described.--Its Use and Marvelous Capabilities.--THE +WILD GOOSE TRAP.--Its Extensive Use in the Northern Cold Regions +for the Capture of the Goose and Ptarmigan.--Tame Goose Used as +Decoys.--Gravel as Bait.--THE TRAP CAGE.--A Favorite Trap among +Bird Catchers.--Call Birds.--THE SPRING NET TRAP.--Rubber Elastic +as Spring Power.--A SIMPLER NET TRAP.--Common Faults in many Bird +Traps.--Complicated Construction as Unnecessary Feature.--Requisites +of a good Bird Trap.--Hints on Simple Mechanism.--Different Modes +of Constructing Hinge.--Hoop Iron Used as Spring Power.--Manner +of Tempering Spring.--THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.--A Second Method of +Constructing Platform.--THE BOX OWL TRAP.--Ventilation a Desirable +Feature in all Box Traps.--Tin Catch for Securing Cover in +Place.--Peculiar Mode of Baiting for Birds.--Modification of +Perch.--Baiting for the Owl.--Locality for Setting.--The Owl in +Captivity.--Its Food.--Hints on the Care of the Bird.--THE BOX +BIRD TRAP.--Cigar Box Used as a Trap.--THE PENDANT BOX +TRAP.--Ventilation.--Simple Mechanism.--Care in Construction of +Bearings.--THE HAWK TRAP.--A "Yankee" Invention.--Stiff-Pointed +Wires Effectually Use in the Capture of the Hawk.--Owl also Captured +by the Same Device.--THE WILD DUCK NET.--Its Use in Chesapeake +Bay.--Manner of Constructing the Net.--Decoy Ducks.--Bait for the +Ducks.--THE HOOK TRAP.--Its cruel Mode of Capture.--Peculiar Bait +for Ducks.--THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.--Its Successful Use in the Capture +of the Crow.--Shrewdness of the Crow.--Strange antics of a Crow when +Captured in the Trap.--Bird Lime the Secret of its Success.--Wonderful +Tenacity of the Cap.--Different Modes of Setting.--BIRD LIME +Described.--Its astonishing "Sticky" Qualities.--The Bird Lime +of the Trade.--Various "Home-Made" Recipes.--Manner of Using Bird +Lime.--Limed Twigs.--The Owl Used as a Decoy in connection with +Bird Lime.--Bird Lime used in the Capture of the Humming Bird.--A +Flower Converted into a Trap.--Masticated Wheat as Bird Lime.--Its +Ready Removal from the Feathers.--Delicate Organization of the +Humming Bird.--Killed by Fright.--Use of its Plumage.--Snares for the +Humming Bird.--Blow Guns Successfully Used for its Capture.--Killed +by Concussion.--Disabled by a Stream of Water. + +[Page v] +BOOK IV. + +MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. + +THE COMMON BOX TRAP.--Two Modes of Setting.--Animals for which it +is Adapted.--A Modification of the Trap.--ANOTHER BOX TRAP.--THE +FIGURE FOUR TRAP.--Its Advantages.--THE DOUBLE ENDER.--A Favorite +Trap in New England.--Simplicity of Construction.--The Rabbit's +Fondness for Salt.--Its Use as a Bait.--THE SELF SETTING TRAP.--Animals +for which it is adapted.--THE DEAD FALL.--Various Methods of +Construction.--Animals for which it is usually Set.--Remarkable +Cunning of some Animals.--The Precautions which it Necessitates.--Bait +for the Muskrat.--Various Baits for the Mink.--Skunk Baits.--A Fox +Entrapped by a Dead Fall.--Slight Modification in the Arrangement +of Pieces.--Live Duck used as Bait.--Another Arrangement for the +Dead Fall.--Trap Sprung by the Foot of the Animal.--THE FIGURE FOUR +TRAP.--Applied to the Dead Fall.--THE GAROTTE.--Its Singular Mode +of Capture.--Its Common Victims.--THE BOW TRAP.--An oddity of the +Trap Kind.--Its Singular mechanism.--THE MOLE TRAP.--A Much-needed +Contrivance.--Subterranean Mode of Setting.--Its Unfailing Success.--A +FISH TRAP.--A Section of Stove Pipe used as a Trap.--Its Various +Victims.--Adjustment of the Bait.--Curious Mode of Capture. + +BOOK V. + +HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. + +A Chapter Dedicated to Pestered Housekeepers.--The Domestic Cat +as a Household Trap.--The Rat.--Its Proverbial Shrewdness and +Cunning.--THE BARREL TRAP.--Its unlimited Capabilities of Capture--Other +Advantages.--"Baiting" for Rats.--A Second Form of Barrel Trap.--Various +other Devices adapted to the capture of the Rat.--The Steel Trap.--Hints +on Setting.--Necessary Precautions.--THE BOX DEAD FALL.--THE BOARD +FLAP.--THE BOX PIT FALL.--Animals for which it may be set.--Its +Extensive Capabilities of Capture.--Its Self-Setting Qualities.--The +principle Utilized for the Capture of the Muskrat.--THE CAGE TRAP.--THE +JAR TRAP.--A Preserve Jar Converted into a Mouse Trap.--Its Complete +Success.--BOWL TRAPS.--Two Methods.--FLY PAPER.--Recipe for Making.--FLY +TRAP. + +BOOK VI. + +STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. + +General Remarks.--Advantages of the Steel Trap.--Its extensive use in +the business of Trapping.--Hints on the Selection of Traps.--REQUISITES +OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.--The Newhouse Trap.--Various sizes.--Rat +Trap.--Muskrat Trap.--Mink Trap.--Fox Trap.--Otter Trap.--Beaver +Trap.--"Great Bear Tamer."--SSmall Bear Trap.--HINTS ON BAITING +THE STEEL TRAP.--The Staked Pen.--Old Method of Baiting.--Its +Objections.--Advantages of the New Method.--THE SPRING POLE.--Its +Service to the Trapper.--THE SLIDING POLE.--Advantages of its Use +in the Capture of Aquatic Animals.--THE CLOG.--Objections against +Securing the Steel Trap to a Stake.--Method of Attaching the Clog.--THE +GRAPPLING IRON.--THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING.--Best condition for Furs.--THE +ART OF TRAPPING.--Antiquity of the Sport.--Necessary Qualifications +for Successful Trapping.--The Study of Natural History a source +of pleasure and profit.--The Professional Trapper's most serious +[Page vi] +Obstacles.--Marvellous Cunning of many Animals.--Necessity of the +Study of their Habits.--"Practical Natural History."--Trapping Without +Bait.--Run-ways or By-paths.--How Utilized by the Trapper.--How +Detected.--Favorable Localities for the Setting of the Steel +Trap.--Natural Advantages.--Entrapping animals through their Sense +of Smell.--Remarkable Power of Scent Baits.--Their great value +in the Capture of the Beaver.--Caution in Handling the Steel +Trap.--Effect of the Touch of the Hand.--Buckskin Gloves a Necessary +Requisite.--MEDICINES, OR SCENT BAITS.--Their Great Importance in the +Art of Trapping.--CASTOREUM OR BARKSTONE.--How Obtained.--Castoreum +Composition.--Recipe for Making.--How Used.--MUSK--ASSAFOETIDA.--OIL +OF RHODIUM.--FISH OIL.--Its General Use in the Capture of Aquatic +Animals.--Valuable Recipe for its Manufacture.--OIL OF SKUNK.--How +Obtained.--How Eradicated from Hands or Clothing.--OIL OF AMBER.--OIL +OF AMBERGRIS.--OIL OF ANISE.--Its General Use as a "Universal +Medicine."--SWEET FENNEL.--CUMMIN--FENUGREEK--LAVENDER--COMPOUND +MEDICINE--THE TRAIL--Its Object and Value.--Various Modes of +Making.--HOW TO TRAP.--General Remarks.--THE FOX.--Its Scientific +Classification.--The Various American Species.--The Red Fox.--The +Cross Fox.--Why so Named.--The Black or Silver Fox.--The Great +Value of its Fur.--The Prairie Fox.--The Kit or Swift Fox.--The +Gray Fox.--Similarity in the General Characteristics of the Various +Species.--Food of the Fox.--Its Home.--Its consummate Craft.--Instances +of its Cunning.--Baffling the Hounds.--How to Trap the Fox.--Preparation +of the Trap.--Adverse Effect of Human Scent.--Necessity of handling Trap +with Gloves.--The "Bed."--"Baiting" the Bed Necessary.--Precautions in +Setting the Trap.--The "Tricks of the Trapper" Illustrated.--How to +Proceed in case of Non-Success.--The Scent-Baits Utilized.--Various +Modes of Setting the Trap.--The Baits Commonly Used.--The Dead Fall +as a Means of Capture.--Common Mode of Skinning the Fox.--Directions +for Stretching Skin.--THE WOLF.--The Various Species.--Fierce +Characteristics of the Wolf.--Its Terrible Inroads among Herds and +Flocks.--The Gray Wolf.--The Coyote or Common Prairie Wolf.--The +Texan Wolf.--Home of the Wolf.--Number of Young.--Cunning of the +Wolf.--Caution Required in Trapping.--How to Trap the Wolf.--Preparation +of Trap.--Various Ways of Setting the Trap.--Use of the Trail and +Scent Baits.--"Playing Possum."--The Dead Fall and "Twitch-up" +as Wolf Traps.--Directions for Skinning the Wolf and Stretching +the Pelt.--THE PUMA.--Its Scientific Classification.--Its Life +and Habits.--Its Wonderful Agility.--Its Skill as an Angler.--Its +Stealth.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Puma.--The Gun +Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Dead Fall.--Trap for Taking the Animal +Alive.--Log Coop Trap.--The Pit Fall.--Bait for the Puma.--The Steel +Trap.--Common Mode of Setting.--Selection of Locality for Trapping.--How +to Skin the Puma.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE CANADA +LYNX.--Description of the Animal.--Its Life and Habits.--Its Food.--Its +Peculiar Appearance when Running.--Easily Killed.--The Dead Fall as +a Lynx Trap.--Peculiar Manner of Construction for the Purpose.--The +Gun Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Twitch-up.--Young of the Lynx.--Value +of its Fur.--The Steel Trap.--Various Methods of Setting.--Directions +for Skinning the Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE WILD CAT.--Its +Resemblance to the Domestic Species.--Its Strange Appetite.--Its +Home.--Number of Young.--Haunts of the Wild Cat.--Its Nocturnal +Marauding expeditions.--Its Lack of Cunning.--How to Trap the Wild +Cat.--An Entire Colony Captured.--Ferocity of the Wild Cat.--The +Twitch-up.--Its Common Use in the Capture of the Wild Cat.--Other +Successful Traps.--Various Baits for the Wild Cat.--Directions +for Skinning the Animal, and Stretching the Pelt.--THE BEAR.--The +Various American Species.--The Grizzly.--Its Enormous Size and +Power.--Its Terrible Fury.--Description of the Animal.--Food of the +Grizzly.--The Black Bear or Musquaw.--Its General Description.--Bear +Hunting.--Danger of the Sport.--Food of the Bear.--Its Fondness for +Pigs.--Honey Its Special Delight.--The Cubs.--The Flesh of the +Bear as Food.--"Bears' Grease."--Hibernation of the Bear.--Traps +for the Bear.--The Dead +[Page vii] +Fall.--Pit-fall.--Giant Coop.--Gun Trap.--The Steel Trap.--The +Clog and Grappling-Iron.--Their Advantages.--How to Trap the +Bear.--Various Methods of Adjusting Traps.--Natural Advantages.--Honey +as Bait.--Other Baits.--Scent Baits.--Skinning the Bear.--Directions +for Stretching the Pelt.--THE RACCOON.--Classification--Cunning +and Stealth of the Animal.--Characteristic Features.--The "Coon +Chase."--How the Raccoon is Hunted.--The "Tree'd Coon."--Varied +Accomplishments of the Raccoon.--Its Home and Family.--The "Coon" +as a Pet.--Its Cunning Ways.--Its Extensive Bill of Fare.--Life and +Habits of the Raccoon.--Remarkable Imprint of its Paw.--Season for +Trapping the Coon.--How to Trap the Coon.--Various Modes of Setting +the Trap.--Use of the "medicines" or "Scent Baits."--Other Traps for +the Animal.--Directions for Removing the Skin, and Stretching the +Pelt.--THE BADGER.--Its Peculiar Markings.--Use of the Hair.--Nest of +the Badger.--Number of Young.--Food of the Animal.--Its Remarkable +Fondness for Honey.--Its Cunning.--Remarkable Instincts.--Its +Shrewdness.--How to Trap the Badger.--Various Baits.--Use of +"Medicine."--Capture of the Animal by Flooding its Burrow.--How +to Skin the Badger.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE +BEAVER.--Description of the Animal.--Its Nature and Habits.--The +Beaver Village.--The "Lodges," or Beaver Houses.--Remarkable +Construction of the Huts.--The Dam of the Beaver.--Wonderful Skill +shown in its Construction.--Nocturnal Habits of the Beaver.--Remarkable +Engineering Instincts of the Animal.--How the Beaver Cuts Timber.--How +the Dam is Constructed.--The Formation of "Reefs."--The Tail of +the Beaver as a Means of Transportation.--Subterranean Passage +to the Huts.--How Beavers are Hunted.--Young of the Beaver.--How +to Trap the Beaver.--The Necessary Precautions.--Castoreum or Bark +Stone.--Its Great Value in the Capture of the Beaver.--Various +Methods of Setting the Trap.--How to Apply the Castoreum.--Use of +the Sliding Pole.--Food of the Beaver.--Directions for Skinning the +Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE MUSK-RAT.--General Description +of the Animal.--Its Beaver-like Huts.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its +Food.--The Flesh of the Musk-rat as an Article of Diet.--Description +of the Hut.--Extensive Family of the Musk-Rat.--Its Home.--How the +Musk-Rat swims beneath Unbroken Ice.--How it is Killed by being +Driven Away from its Breath.--Spearing the Musk-Rat.--Construction +of the Spear.--How to Trap the Musk-Rat.--Use of the Sliding +Pole.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The Spring Pole.--Scent +Baits.--Various Devices for Capturing the Musk-Rat.--The +Barrel-Trap.--Remarkable Success of the Trap.--The Trail.--Skinning +the Musk-Rat.--How to Stretch the Pelt.--THE OTTER.--Description +of the Animal.--Beauty of its Fur.--How the "Otter Fur" of Fashion +is Prepared.--Food of the Otter.--Its Natural Endowments for +Swimming.--Habitation of the Otter.--Its Nest and Young.--The Track +or "Seal" of the animal.--How the Otter is Hunted.--Its Fierceness +when Attacked.--The Otter as a Pet.--Fishing for its Master.--The +Otter "Slide."--How Utilized by the Trapper.--Playfulness of the +Otter.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The +Sliding Pole.--The Spring Pole.--Scent Baits.--How Applied.--Necessary +Precautions.--How to Skin the Otter.--Directions for Stretching the +Pelt.--THE MINK.--Its Form and Color.--Value of the Fur.--Habits +of the Animal.--Its Diet.--Its Perpetual Greed.--Ease with which it +may be Trapped.--Habitation of the Mink.--Its Nest and Young.--How +to Trap the Mink.--Various Methods of Setting the Trap.--Baits.--The +Sliding Pole.--"Medicine."--The Runways of the Mink.--How Utilized +in Trapping.--The Trail.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the +Mink.--How to Skin the Animal.--THE PINE MARTEN.--Description of +the Animal.--Its Natural Characteristics.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its +Wonderful Stealth and Activity.--Its "Bill of Fare."--Its Strange mode +of Seizing Prey.--The Marten as a Pet.--Its Agreeable Odor.--Various +Traps Used in the Capture of the Marten.--Baits for the Marten.--The +Steel Trap.--Several Modes of Setting.--Directions for Skinning +the Animal.--THE FISHER.--Its Form and Color.--Its Habitation and +Young.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Methods.--The Spring +Pole.--Baits for the Fisher.--Principal Devices Used in its +Capture.--The Skin.--How +[Page viii] +Removed and Stretched.--THE SKUNK.--Its Fetid Stench.--Origin of +the Odor.--Its Effect on Man and Beast.--"Premonitory Symptoms" +of Attack.--Acrid Qualities of the Secretion.--Its Terrible Effect +on the Eyes.--Interesting Adventure with a Skunk.--"Appearances are +often Deceitful."--The Skunk as a Pet.--Color of the Animal.--Habits +of the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Young.--"Alaska Sable."--How to +Trap the Skunk.--Various Traps Used.--The Steel Trap.--Different +Modes of Setting.--Baits.--The Dead Fall.--Modifications in its +Construction.--The Twitch-up.--Its Peculiar Advantages for the +Capture of the Skunk.--Chloride of Lime as Antidote.--Method of +Eradicating the Odor from the Clothing.--Directions for Removing and +Stretching the Skin.--THE WOLVERINE.--Its Desperate Fierceness and +voracity.--Its General Characteristics.--Its Form and Color.--Food +of the Wolverine.--Its Trap-Robbing Propensities.--How to Trap the +Wolverine.--Baits.--Use of the "Medicine."--The Gun Trap and Dead +Fall.--The Steel Trap.--Various Modes of Setting.--Home and Young +of the Animal.--How the Skin should be Removed and Stretched.--THE +OPOSSUM.--Description of the Animal.--Its Nature and Habits.--Its +Home.--Remarkable Mode of Carrying its Young.--Nocturnal Habits of +the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Especial Fondness for Persimmons.--Its +Remarkable Tenacity as a Climber.--"Playing Possum."--How the Opossum +is Hunted.--How Trapped.--Various Devices Used in its Capture.--Scent +Baits.--How the Skin is Removed and Stretched.--THE RABBIT.--Wide-spread +Distribution of the Various Species.--Their Remarkable Powers of +Speed.--Nest of the Rabbit.--Its Prolific Offspring.--Food of the +Rabbit.--Its Enemies.--Various Devices Used in Trapping the +Animal.--Necessary Precautions in Skinning the Rabbit.--THE +WOODCHUCK.--Description of the Animal.--Its Habits.--Its Burrows.--Its +Food.--Toughness of the Skin.--Its Use.--Nest of the Animal.--The +Woodchuck as Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--The Steel Trap.--The +Spring Pole.--The Twitch-up.--How the Woodchuck is "Drowned Out."--The +Turtle as a Ferret.--Smoking the Burrows.--Directions for Skinning +the Animal.--THE GOPHER.--Its Burrows.--Its Food.--Remarkable Cheek +Pouches of the Animal.--Their Use.--How to Trap the Animal.--How +the Skin is Removed.--THE MOLE.--Its Varied Accomplishments.--Its +Remarkable Dwellings.--Complicated Structure of the Habitation.--The +Fury and Voracity of the Mole.--Peculiarities of Its Fur.--A Waistcoat +of Mole Skins.--Odor of the Mole.--Mole Traps.--Various Species of the +Mole.--The Mole of the Cape of Good Hope.--Marvellous Beauty of Its +Fur.--SQUIRRELS.--Their General Peculiarities of Form and Habit.--Their +Food.--Their Provident Instincts.--"Nutting" in Midwinter.--The +Nest of the Squirrel.--Burrowing Squirrels.--The Various American +Species.--The Grey Squirrel.--The Chipmunk.--The Chickaree.--The +Flying Squirrel, &c.--How Squirrels are Trapped.--Various Traps +Used in their Capture.--Removal of Skin.--THE DEER.--Difficulty +of Hunting the Animal in Dry Seasons.--Various American Species +of the Deer.--How the Deer is Trapped.--Peculiar Construction of +the Trap.--Scent Bait for the Deer.--Various Methods of Setting +the Trap.--Violence of the Deer when Trapped.--The Clog.--Dead +Falls.--Food of the Deer.--Deer "Yards."--Natural Enemies of the +Deer.--How the Deer is Hunted.--"Still Hunting."--The Deer's Acute +Sense of Smell.--How to Detect the Direction of the Wind.--Natural +Habits of the Deer.--"Night Hunting."--Luminosity of the Eyes of the +Deer at Night.--Hunting the deer with dogs.--"Deer Licks."--How Salt +is used in Hunting the Deer.--Hunting from a Scaffolding.--Peculiar +Sight of the Deer.--"Salt Licks" used in Night Hunting.--Head +Lantern.--How made.--How used.--The fiery Eyes of the Deer.--"Fox +Fire" or Phosphorescent wood.--How used by the Hunter.--Seasons +for Deer Hunting.--How to skin the Deer.--THE MOOSE.--Description +of the animal.--Immense size of its Horns.--Moose yards.--Hunted +on Snow shoes.--The dangers of Moose Hunting.--Exquisite sense of +Smell.--How the Moose is Trapped.--Directions for removing the +Skin of the Animal.--ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.--Description of the +Animal.--Its enormous Horns.--Habits of the creature.--Its flesh as +Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--THE BUFFALO.--Its Habits.--Its +Food.--Buffalo-grass.--How the Animal is Hunted and Trapped.--Buffalo +[Page ix] +flesh as Food.--Buffalo skins.--THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE.--Description +of the Animal.--Peculiarity of Horn.--How the creature is Hunted +and Destroyed by the Indians.--Remarkable sense of Smell of the +Animal.--Its Beauty and grace.--Flesh of the Antelope a Food.--How +the Animal is Trapped.--Various Traps used in their Capture.--The +Dead-fall.--Pit-fall.--How to remove the Hide of the Animal.--SHOOTING +AND POISONING.--"Shot furs."--"Poisoned furs."--"Trapped furs."--Their +relative Value in the Fur Market.--Effect of grazing shot on +fur.--Effect of Poison on Fur.--Remarks on the use of +Poison.--Strychnine.--Poisoning Wolves.--Recipe for mixing the +Poison.--Poisoning the Bear.--How the Dose is Prepared. + +BOOK VII. + +CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS. + +Introductory Remarks.--"Amateur Trapping."--PLAN OF CAMPAIGN.--Selection +of Trapping-ground.--Advantages of a Watered District.--Labor of +transportation lightened by Boating.--Lakes, Ponds and Streams.--The +Adirondacks and Alleghanies.--Remarks on the "Home Shanty."--Selection +of Site for building.--Value of a good Axe.--Remarks on the Bark +Shanty.--Its value in case of Storms.--Wise fore-sight.--Remarks on +the Indian Birch-bark Canoe.--Dug-out and Bateau.--Commencement of +Trapping Season.--Advantages of preliminary preparation.--Extensive +route of the Professional Trapper.--Sixty pounds of Personal +Luggage.--How the traps and provisions are distributed among the +Trapping lines.--Use of the "Home Shanty."--"Keeping Shanty."--Necessity +of its being Guarded.--Wolves and Bears as thieves.--Steel Traps +considered.--Number used in a Professional Campaign.--Number for +an Amateur Campaign.--Their Probable Cost.--The average size of +Trap.--Dead-falls, Twitchups, &c., considered.--Requisite Tools for +a Campaign.--A "House-wife" a valuable necessity.--"Cleanliness next +to Godliness."--The Trappers' Light.--Comparative value of Lanterns +and Candles.--The Trappers' Personal outfit.--The jack-knife.--The +Pocket-Compass.--Necessity of preparing for Emergencies.--Shot +guns and Rifles.--Both combined in the same weapon.--Oil for Fire +Arms.--Fat of the Grouse Used on Fire Arms.--Fishing tackle.--The +Trappers' portable stove.--The Stove versus The Open Fire.--The +Trapper's Clothing.--The Material and Color.--Boots.--High-topped +Boots.--Short Boots.--Their Relative Qualities.--Waterproof Boot +Dressing.--Recipe.--The Trapping Season.--Hints on Trapping-lines.--The +"Wheel" plan.--Mode of following the lines.--"Trap Robbers" or +"Poachers."--How to guard against them.--Hiding furs.--How to store +Traps from Season to Season.--Gnats and Mosquitoes.--The "Smudge."--How +made.--FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS.--"Roughing it."--"A chance Chip +for a Frying Pan."--A "happy medium" between two extremes.--Cosy +and Comfortable living on a Campaign.--Portable Food.--Combined +Nutriment and lightness in weight to be desired.--The Trappers' +Culinary Outfit.--Indian meal as Food.--The Trappers' "Staff of +Life."--Wheat flour.--Salt Pork.--Seasoning.--Pork Fritters a +luxury.--Cooking Utensils.--The "Telescope" drinking cup.--Recipe +for making Pork Fritters.--"Chop Sticks" a la "Chinee."--A Flat +Chip as a Plate.--Boiled Mush.--Old "Stand by."--Recipe.--Fried +Mush.--Indian meal Cakes.--Recipe.--Johnny Cake.--Recipe.--Hoe +Cakes.--Recipe.--Fresh fish.--How to Cook fish in a most Delicious +manner.--Prof. Blot, and Delmonico, out-done.--The "NE PLUS ULTRA" of +delicacies.--All the sweet Juices of the Fish preserved.--Disadvantages +of the ordinary method of cooking.--Partridge, Duck, Quail, Cooked +deliciously.--Roasting unrivalled!--Hints on Broiling.--An extemporized +Spider or Toaster.--Roasting on a spit.--Venison, Bear, and Moose Meat +broiled in the best style.--Venison cutlets.--The Camp fire.--Usual mode +[Page x] +of building Fire.--How the Kettle is suspended.--"Luxuries" +considered.--The Knapsack a desirable Acquisition.--Matches.--The Bottle +Match-safe.--Waterproof Matches.--How made.--Lucifer Matches.--Recipe +for Waterproof preparation.--The Pocket Sun Glass.--A necessary adjunct +to a Trapper's Outfit.--Its Advantages in case of Emergency.--"Touch +wood" or "Punk Tinder," valuable in lighting fires.--How to light Fires +without matches or Sun glass.--How to light a fire without Matches, +Sun Glass, Powder, or Percussion Caps.--A last Resort.--Matches best +in the long run.--The Portable Camp Stove described.--Its accompanying +Furniture.--The Combination Camp-knife.--Hint on Provisions.--Potatoes +as food.--Beans.--"Self raising" Wheat flour.--Light Bread, Biscuit +and Pancakes in Camp.--Various accessories.--Olive Oil for purpose +of Frying.--Pork.--Indian meal.--Crackers.--Wheaten Grits.--Rice and +Oatmeal.--Tea and Coffee.--Soups.--Liebig's Extract of Beef.--Canned +Vegetables.--Lemonade.--Waterproof bags for provisions.--Painted +bags.--Caution!--Waterproof preparation.--Air-tight jars for +Butter.--Knapsack or Shoulder Basket.--Venison as food.--To preserve +the overplus of meat.--"Jerked Venison" Recipe and Process.--Moose +and Bear meat and Fish, similarly prepared.--How to protect provisions +from Wolves.--The Moufflon and Prong-horn as food.--"Small game," +Squirrels, Rabbits, and Woodchucks.--"Skunk Meat" as a delicacy.--The +Buffalo as food.--Grouse, the universal Food of Trappers and +Hunters.--Various species of Grouse.--The Sage Cock.--The +Ptarmigan.--How they are trapped by the Indians in the Hudson's +Bay Country.--Waterfowl.--Sea and Inland Ducks.--Various species of +Duck.--Mallard.--Muscovy.--Wigeon.--Merganser.--Canvass Back.--Teal, +&c.--Wild Geese.--Fish as food.--Angling and Spearing.--Salmon +Spearing in the North.--Description of the Salmon Spear used by +the Indians.--Salmon Spearing at night.--Requisites of a good +Spearsman.--Fishing through the Ice.--Cow's udder and Hogs liver as +Bait.--Other Baits.--Assafoetida and Sweet Cicely as fish Baits.--Trout +fishing with Tip-up's.--Pickerel fishing in Winter.--Pickerel Spearing +through the Ice.--The Box Hut.--The "Fish Lantern" or Fish Trap.--Fish +Attracted by light.--Light as Bait.--How the Fish Lantern is made and +used.--THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.--Introductory remarks.--The Perils of +a Life in the Wilderness.--A Shelter of some form a Necessity.--The +Log Shanty.--Full directions for building.--Ingenious manner of +constructing roof.--How the Chimney is built.--Spacious interior of +the Shanty.--THE BARK SHANTY.--A Temporary structure.--Full directions +for its construction.--Selection of building site.--TENTS.--Advantages +of their use.--Various kinds of Tents.--The House Tent.--The Fly +Tent.--The Shelter Tent.--Directions for making the Tent.--Tent +Cloth.--How to render tents Water and Fire-resistant.--Valuable +recipe.--BEDS AND BEDDING.--Perfect rest and comfort to the tired +Trapper.--A portable Spring bed for the woods.--A Hammock bed.--Bed +Clothes.--The Canton Flannel Bag.--Hammocks.--TENT CARPETING.--Spruce +and Hemlock boughs as bedding.--How to cover the ground evenly.--The +Rubber Blanket. + +BOOK VIII. + +THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY. + +Warning to the Novice.--Winged Cannibals of the Woods.--INSECT +OINTMENTS.--Mosquitoes and Gnats.--Their aversion to the scent +of Pennyroyal.--Pennyroyal Ointment.--Recipe.--Mutton tallow +Ointment.--Tar and Sweet Oil Liniment.--Recipe.--Its effect on the +Complexion.--Invasions of Insects by night.--Their pertinacity and +severity.--The experience of our Adirondack guide.--The bloodthirsty +propensities of the Mosquito admirably depicted.--The "Smudge" Smoke +versus Insect Bites.--"Punkeys" and "Midgets."--Their terrible +voracity.--Painful effects of their Bites.--Pennyroyal an effective +Antidote.--Depraved +[Page xi] +appetite of the mosquito.--A Warning to the Intemperate.--Use and abuse +of Alcohol.--A Popular error corrected.--A substitute for Whiskey and +Brandy.--Red Pepper Tea.--Its great value as a remedy in Illness.--The +Mosquitoes' favorite Victim.--Result of the bite of the insect.--The +Mosquito Head-Net.--Directions for making the Net.--Netting attachment +for the Hat.--Portable Sun Shade or Hat brim.--Netting attachment +for the Hat brim.--BOAT BUILDING.--A Boat of some kind a necessity +to the Trapper.--The "Dug-Out" or Log-Canoe.--Requisite Tools for +its Manufacture.--Selection of the Log.--Directions for making the +boat.--Remarkable thinness to which they may be reduced.--Lightness +of the boat.--How to gauge the thickness.--How to stop leaks.--THE +INDIAN OR BIRCH BARK CANOE.--The Indian as a Canoe-maker.--His +remarkable skill.--Perfection of the Indian made Canoe.--Description +of the Canoe.--Capacity of the various sizes.--How to construct a +Bark Canoe.--Selection of Bark.--How to prevent Leaks.--Material +used by the Indians in sewing the Bark.--Advantages of the Birch +Bark Canoe.--Basswood, Hemlock, and Spruce Bark Canoes.--A LIGHT +HOME-MADE BOAT.--Selection of Boards.--Directions for making the +Boat.--Caulking the seams.--Value of Pitch for waterproofing +purposes.--How it should be applied.--THE SCOW.--How to construct the +ordinary Flat-bottomed Boat.--The Mud-stick.--SNOW SHOES.--A necessity +for winter travel.--The "Snow Shoe Race."--The mysteries of a Snow +Shoe.--"Taming the Snow Shoe."--How to make the Snow Shoe.--Complicated +Net-work.--Two methods of attaching the Net-work.--How the Snow +Shoe is worn.--THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.--Its value to the +Trapper.--Winter Coasting.--Great sport with the Toboggan.--How to +make a Toboggan.--Selection of Boards.--How the Sledge is used.--CURING +SKINS.--Importance of Curing Skins properly.--Valuable hints on Skinning +Animals.--How to dry Skins.--How to dress Skins for Market.--Astringent +preparations.--Recipe.--STRETCHERS.--How skins are stretched.--The Board +Stretcher.--How it is made and used.--The Wedge Stretcher.--How made +and used.--The Bow Stretcher.--The Hoop Stretcher.--TANNING SKINS.--To +Tan with the hair on.--Preparation of Skin for Tanning.--Tanning +Mixture.--Recipe.--Second Mixture.--Recipe.--Third Mixture and +Recipe.--How the Skin is softened and finished.--HOW TO TAN MINK +AND MUSKRAT SKINS.--Preparation of Skin.--Tanning Mixtures.--Various +Recipes.--"Fleshing."--The Fleshing-knife.--Substitute for the +Fleshing-knife.--HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF THE BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, +AND MARTEN.--Tanning Mixtures.--How to soften the Skin.--Simple +Tanned Skin.--Recipe for removing the fur.--How to finish the +Skin.--OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.--Some +bits of History in connection with Furs.--Ancient use of Furs.--Furs +a medium of Exchange.--Furs and Fashion.--Extravagance in Fur +Costume.--Choice Furs as Badges of Rank.--Their use restricted to +Royal Families.--The Early Fur Trade of Europe.--A Tribute paid +in Furs.--Early History of the Fur Trade in America.--Origin of +the Hudson's Bay Company.--Hostility of the French Canadian +Traders.--Establishment of the North West Company.--Competition and +War.--Consolidation of the two Companies.--Great sales of the Hudson's +Bay Company.--Importance of the Fur Trade.--Cities founded by the +enterprise of the Trapper.--St. Paul.--Montreal and Mackinaw.--Fortunes +built up on Fur Traffic.--John Jacob Astor.--Mink and Muskrat +Skins.--Their extensive use in America.--Estimated value of the +annual yield of Raw Furs throughout the World.--Classification +of Furs by American Dealers.--"Home" Furs.--"Shipping" Furs.--Table +of Sales of Hudson's Bay Company, in 1873.--March Sale.--September +Sale.--Price according to Quality.--Estimated average per Skin.--List +of American "Shipping" Furs.--List of American "Home" Furs.--MARKET +VALUE OF FUR SKINS.--Eccentricities of the Fur Market.--Demand +governed by Fashion.--How Fashion runs the Fur Trade.--The Amateur +Trapper and the Fur Trade.--Difficulty of a profitable disposal +of Furs.--Advice to the Novice.--How to realize on the sale of +Furs.--TABLE OF VALUES OF AMERICAN FUR SKINS.--A complete list of +American Fur bearing Animals.--Various prices of Skins according +to Quality.--USES OF AMERICAN FURS AT HOME AND ABROAD.--The Silver +Fox.--Fifty Guineas for a Fur Skin.--Red Fox Fur.--Its +[Page xii] +use in Oriental Countries.--Beaver Fur.--Its various uses.--Raccoon +Skins, a great Staple for Russia and Germany.--Bear Skins and their +various uses.--Lynx, Fisher, and Marten Skins.--The Mink.--Use of its +hair for Artists pencils.--Muskrat Skins.--Three millions annually +exported to Germany alone.--Their extensive use among the American +poorer classes.--Otter Fur.--Sleigh Robes from Wolf Skins.--Rabbit +Fur.--Its use in the Manufacture of Hats.--Breeding Rabbits for +their Fur.--The Wolverine.--Skunk Fur, dignified by the name of +Alaska Sable.--Large shipments to Foreign Countries.--How the Fur +of the Badger is used.--Opossum, Puma, and Wild Cat Fur.--Robes +for the Fashionable.--Squirrel and Mole skins. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Page xiii] +[Illustration: ILLUSTRATIONS.] + +FULL PAGES. + + 1. Caught at last. + 2. Traps for Large Game. + 3. Snares or Noose Traps. + 4. Traps for Feathered Game. + 5. Miscellaneous Traps. + 6. Household Traps. + 7. Steel Traps, and the art of Trapping. + 8. Almost Persuaded.--to face. + 9. The Campaign. + 10. Trapper's Miscellany. + +[Page xiv] +ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT. + + 11. "Preface". + 12. Initial to Preface. + 13. End piece to Preface. + 14. "Contents". + 15. "Illustrations". + 16. Initial to Book I + 17. Dead fall for large Animals. + 18. Explanatory drawing of pieces. + 19. The Gun Trap. + 20. The Bow Trap + 21. " " " arrangement of parts. + 22. " " " Section. + 23. Foot String Bow Trap. + 24. The Down fall. + 25. The Bear Trap. + 26. End piece to Book I. + 27. Initial to Book II. + 28. Quail Nooses. + 29. Hedge Nooses. + 30. The Triangle Snare. + 31. The Twitch-up. + 32. Method of Setting. + 33. " " " No. 2. + 34. " " " No. 3. + 35. " " " No. 4. + 36. " " " No. 5. + 37. The Poacher's Snare. + 38. The Portable Snare. + 39. The "Simplest" Snare. + 40. Modification No. 2. + 41. " " 3. + 42. The Quail Snare. + 43. The Box Snare. + 44. The Double Box Snare. + 45. The Old fashioned Springle. + 46. The Improved Springle. + 47. The Figure Four Ground Snare. + 48. The Platform Snare. + 49. End piece. + 50. Initial to Book III. + 51. The Brick Trap. + 52. Method of Setting. + 53. The Coop Trap. + 54. The Bat fowling Net. + 55. The Clap Net. + 56. The Bird Whistle. + 57. The Trap Cage. + 58. Diagrams of Cage. + 59. The Spring Net Trap. +[Page xv] + 60. Section of Spring Net Trap. + 61. A Simpler Net Trap. + 62. The Upright Net Trap. + 63. Second Method " + 64. The Box Owl Trap. + 65. The Box Bird Trap. + 66. The Pendant Box Bird Trap. + 67. The Hawk Trap. + 68. The Wild Duck Net. + 69. The Hook Trap. + 70. The Fool's Cap Trap. + 71. The Limed Twig. + 72. Humming-bird Trap. + 73. Initial to Book IV. + 74. The Common Box Trap. + 75. Two Modes of Setting. + 76. Box Trap. + 77. The Figure Four Trap. + 78. Parts of " + 79. The "Double Ender". + 80. The Self-Setting Trap. + 81. The Dead fall. + 82. Method No. 2. + 83. The Garotte. + 84. Arrangement of "Setting". + 85. The Bow Garotte Trap. + 86. A Fish Trap. + 87. End Piece "Maternal advice". + 88. Initial to Book V. + 89. The Barrel Trap. + 90. The Box Dead Trap. + 91. The Board Flap. + 92. The Box Pit-fall. + 93. Diagram of " + 94. Cage Trap. + 95. Initial to Book VI. + 96. Steel Trap. No. (0) or Rat Trap. + 97. Steel Trap. No. 1, or Muskrat Trap. + 98. " " No. 2, or Mink Trap. + 99. " " No. 2-1/2, or Fox Trap. + 100. " " No. 3, or Otter Trap. + 101. " " No. 4, or Beaver Trap. + 102. "The Great Bear Tamer," Steel Trap. + 103. Steel Trap No. 5, or Small Bear Trap. + 104. Steel Trap set in pen. + 105. The Spring Pole. + 106. The Sliding pole. + 107. The Grappling Iron. + 108. The Wolf. + 109. The Puma. + 110. The Canada Lynx. +[Page xvi] + 111. The Wild Cat. + 112. The Bear. + 113. The Raccoon. + 114. The Badger. + 115. The Beaver. + 116. The Otter. + 117. The Mink. + 118. The Marten. + 119. The Skunk. + 120. The Wolverine. + 121. The Opossum. + 122. The Squirrel. + 123. The Moose. + 124. Initial to Book VII. + 125. Portable Drinking Cup. + 126. The Home Shanty. + 127. The Shelter tent. + 128. The Trapper's Bed. + 129. End Piece. + 130. Initial to Book VIII. + 131. Head Net. + 132. Portable Hat-brim. + 133. Hat-brim with netting attachment. + 134. The Dug-out or Log Canoe. + 135. The Birch-Bark Canoe. + 136. A Light Home-made Boat. + 137. Diagram view of Boat----. + 138. The Snow Shoe. + 139. The Toboggan or Indian Sledge. + 140. The Board Stretcher. + 141. The Wedge Stretcher. + 142. The Bow Stretcher. + 143. "The End". + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Page 15] +[Illustration: TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME] + +[Page 17] +BOOK I. + +TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. + + +[Illustration: H]owever free our forests may be from the lurking +dangers of a tropical jungle, they nevertheless shelter a few large +and formidable beasts which are legitimate and deserving subjects +of the Trapper's Art. Chief among them are the Puma, or Cougar, +Bear, Lynx, Wolf and Wolverine. + +Although commonly taken in steel traps, as described respectively +in a later portion of this work, these animals are nevertheless +often captured by Deadfalls and other devices, which are well known +to the professional Trapper, and which serve excellently in cases +of emergency, or in the scarcity of steel traps. + + +[Illustration] + +THE DEAD-FALL. + +There are several varieties of this trap, some of which are described +in other parts of this volume. In general construction they all +bear a similarity, the methods of setting being slightly changed +to suit the various game desired for capture. For large animals, +and particularly the Bear, the trap is sprung by the pressure of +the animal's foot, while reaching for the bait. Select some favorite +haunt of the Bear, and proceed to construct a pen of large stakes. +These should consist of young trees, or straight branches, about +three inches in diameter, and should be of such a length as to +reach a height of four or five feet when set in the ground, this +being the required height of the pen. Its width should be about +two and a half or three feet; its depth, four feet; and the top +should be roofed over with cross pieces of timber, to prevent the +[Page 18] +bait from being taken from above. A straight log, about eight inches +in diameter, and six feet in length should now be rolled against the +opening of the pen, and hemmed in by two upright posts, one on each +side, directly on a line with the sides of the enclosure. Another +log, or tree trunk, of the same diameter, and about fifteen or twenty +feet in length, should next be procured. Having this in readiness, +we will now proceed to the construction of the other pieces. In +order to understand the arrangement of these, we present a separate +drawing of the parts as they appear when the trap is set. (_a_), +An upright post, is supplied at the upper end with a notch, having +its flat face on the lower side. This post should be driven into +the ground in the left hand back corner of the pen, and should +be three feet or more in height. Another post (_b_) of similar +dimensions, is provided with a notch at its upper end, the notch +being reversed, _i. e._, having its flat side _uppermost_. This +post should be set in the ground, _outside_ of the pen, on the +right hand side and on a line with the first. A third post (_c_), +is provided with a crotch on its upper end. This should be planted +outside of the pen on the right hand side, and on a line with the +front. The treadle piece consists of a forked branch, about three feet +[Page 19] +in length, supplied with a square board secured across its ends. +At the junction of the forks, an augur hole is bored, into which a +stiff stick about three feet in length is inserted. This is shown +at (_h_). Two poles, (_d_) and (_e_), should next be procured, each +about four feet in length. These complete the number of pieces, +and the trap may then be set. Pass the pole (_d_) between the stakes +of the pen, laying one end in the notch in the post (_a_), and +holding the other beneath the notch in the upright (_b_). The second +pole (_e_) should then be adjusted, one end being placed in the +crotch post (_c_), and the other caught beneath the projecting +end of the pole (_d_), as is fully illustrated in the engraving. +The dead-log should then be rested on the front extremity of the +pole last adjusted, thus effecting an equilibrium. + +[Illustration] + +The treadle-piece should now be placed in position over a short +stick of wood (_f_), with its platform raised in front, and the +upright stick at the back secured beneath the edge of the latch +pole (_d_). + +The best bait consists of _honey_, for which Bears have a remarkable +fondness. It may be placed on the ground at the back part of the +enclosure, or smeared on a piece of meat hung at the end of the +pen. The dead-log should now be weighted by resting heavy timbers +against its elevated end, as seen in the main drawing, after which +the machine is ready for its deadly work. + +A Bear will never hesitate to risk his life where a feast of honey +is in view, and the odd arrangement of timbers has no fears for +him after that tempting bait has once been discovered. Passing +beneath the suspended log, his heavy paw encounters the broad board +on the treadle-piece, which immediately sinks with his weight. The +upright pole at the back of the treadle is thus raised, forcing +the latch-piece from the notch: this in turn sets free the side +pole, and the heavy log is released falling with a crushing weight +over the back of hapless Bruin. + +There are many other methods of setting the Dead-fall, several +of which appear in another section of this book. The above is the +one more commonly used for the capture of Bears, but the others are +[Page 20] +equally applicable and effective when enlarged to the proper size. + +In South America and other countries, where Lions, Tigers, Leopards, +and Jaguars abound, these and other rude extempore traps are almost +the only ones used, and are always very successful. The pit-fall +often allures the Bengal Tiger to his destruction, and the Leopard +often terminates his career at the muzzle of a rifle baited as +seen in our page illustration. A gun thus arranged forms a most +sure and deadly trap, and one which may be easily extemporized +at a few moments' warning, in cases of emergency. The Puma of our +northern forests, although by no means so terrible a foe as the +Leopard, is still a blood-thirsty creature, and while he shuns the +gaze of man with the utmost fear, he is nevertheless constantly +on the alert to spring upon him unawares, either in an unguarded +moment or during sleep. A hungry Puma, who excites suspicion by +his stealthy prowling and ominous growl, may easily be led to his +destruction at the muzzle of a gun, baited as we shall now describe. + + +THE GUN TRAP. + +After a Puma has succeeded in capturing his prey, and has satisfied +his appetite by devouring a portion of its carcass, he leaves the +remainder for a second meal, and his early return to a second banquet +is almost a matter of certainty. Where such a remnant of a bygone +feast is found, the capture of the Cougar is an easy matter. Any +carcass left in a neighborhood where Pumas are known to exist is +sure to attract them, and day after day its bulk will be found to +decrease until the bones only remain. By thus "baiting" a certain +place and drawing the Pumas thither, the way is paved for their +most certain destruction. The gun-trap is very simply constructed, +and may be put in working order in a very few moments. The weapon +may be a rifle or shot-gun. In the latter case it should be heavily +loaded with buck-shot. The stock should be first firmly tied to +some tree, or secured in a stout crotch driven into the ground, +the barrel being similarly supported. + +The gun should be about three feet from the ground, and should +be aimed at some near tree to avoid possible accident to a chance +passer-by within its range. The gun should then be cocked, _but +not capped_, due caution being always used, and the cap adjusted +the very last thing after the trap is baited and set. Where a rifle +[Page 21] +is used, the cartridge should not be inserted until the last thing. + +It is next necessary to cut a small sapling about a foot or two +in length. Its diameter should allow it to fit snugly inside the +guard in front of the trigger, without springing the hammer. Its +other end should now be supported by a very slight crotch, as shown +in our illustration. Another sapling should next be procured, its +length being sufficient to reach from the muzzle of the gun to +the end of the first stick, and having a branch stub or hook on +one end. The other extremity should be attached by a string to +the tip of the first slick. + +[Illustration] + +Now take a portion of the carcass and draw it firmly over the hook +in the long stick. Prop the latter in such a position as that the +bait shall hang directly in front of the muzzle. The crotch supporting +the bait stick should be firmly implanted in the ground in order +to hold the bait from being drawn to either side of the muzzle. + +The gun-trap is now set, and its merits may be tested. Before adjusting +the cap the pieces should be tried several times to insure their +perfect working. A slight pull on the bait from the front will +draw the short stick forward. This immediately +[Page 22] +acts on the trigger and causes the hammer to snap. By a few trials, +the sticks can be arranged so as to spring the trigger easily, +and where a hair trigger is used, a mere touch on the bait will +suffice to discharge the gun. When all is found to work perfectly, +the trap should be surrounded by a rude pen of sticks and branches, +extending two or three feet beyond the muzzle, in order to insure +an approach directly in the aim of the gun. The cap should now be +placed on the nipple, after which the deadly device may be left +to do its certain work. The remaining portion of the carcass should +be removed, and where the locality is likely to be frequented by +other hunters or trappers, it is well to put up a "danger" signal +to guard against accident. If desired two or three guns may be +arranged like the spokes of a wheel, all aiming near the bait. +Even with one gun the victim stands but little chance, but where +two or three pour their contents into his body, his death is an +absolute certainty. + +By fastening the gun three feet above ground the load is discharged +upward into the mouth of its victim, and thus directly through +the brain. Where two or more guns are used, it is advisable to +aim at least one in such a direction as will send its charge into +the _breast_ of the animal. + +The Indian Panther is very commonly taken by the gun trap, and +even Lions are sometimes secured by the same device, only increased +in power by a larger number of guns. + +There are several other methods of setting the gun trap. One way +consists in attaching a string to the finger piece of the trigger, +passing it back through a small staple or screw eye inserted in +the under side of the stock for that purpose, and then drawing +the string forward and attaching it to the top of the bait stick. +This latter is stuck in the ground directly in front of the muzzle +and the bait secured to its extremity. When the tempting morsel is +grasped, the bait stick is drawn forward and the string pulled, the +result of course being the discharge of the gun. By still another +method, an elastic is passed through the screw eye in the stock and +over the finger piece of the trigger, thus tending continually to +draw it back and spring the hammer. To set the gun a short stick +is inserted behind the finger piece, thus overcoming the power +of the elastic. It should be very delicately adjusted, so that a +mere touch will dislodge it. Its length should be about six inches, +and to its other end the bait stick should be attached and arranged +as first described. Although a rather dangerous trap to be set at +random it is nevertheless often utilized and has brought many a +[Page 23] +dreaded marauder to his doom. + +The bear, lynx, and other large animals are sometimes taken by the +gun trap, but it is most generally set for the Puma. + + +THE BOW TRAP. + +This device does duty in India and Southern Asia, where it is known +as the _tiger trap_. + +[Illustration] + +It is easily constructed as follows: First cut a stout board five +inches in width, two and a half feet in length and about two inches +in thickness. Shave off one end to a point so that it may be driven +into the ground. At the other extremity, in the middle of the board +and about two inches from the edge, a hole one half an inch in +diameter and three quarters of an inch in height, should be made; +two auger holes, one directly above the other with the sides flatly +trimmed, will answer perfectly. The arrow should next be constructed. +This should be made of seasoned oak or ash, two feet in length, +perfectly straight, smooth and round, and one third of an inch in +[Page 24] +diameter. One end should be notched for the bow string and vaned with +thin feathers after the manner of ordinary arrows. The other extremity +should be armed with a steel barb sharply pointed, and firmly riveted +in place. Any blacksmith can forge such a tip; the shape of which is +plainly seen in our engraving. The bow should consist of a piece of +stout seasoned hickory, oak or ash four feet long, if such a bow is +not at hand, a stout sapling may be used. The bow string may consist +of cat-gut, or stout Indian twine. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + +Before setting the trap, it is advisable to attract the game to +the spot selected as already alluded to in connection with the +gun trap, and particularly so when the Puma is the victim sought. +In our illustration we see the trap as it appears when set, and +the same precaution of aiming at some tree should be exercised +as advise with the gun trap. The bow should first be secured in +place directly beneath and one eighth of an inch from the edge of +the hole in the board, as seen at (_a_). Two large wire staples +may be used for this purpose, being passed over the bow through +holes in the board and clinched on the opposite side. The bend +of the bow and length of string should now be determined, one end +of the latter being attached to the tip of the bow and the other +end supplied with a loop. The board should then be driven into the +ground to the depth of about eight inches. We will next take up +the arrow. Pass the barb through the hole in the board and adjust +the notch over the bow-string, draw the arrow back and release the +string. If the arrow slide easily and swiftly, through the board, +keeping true to its aim, the contrivance is in perfect working +order and is ready to be set. This is accomplished by the very +simple and ingenious mechanical arrangement, shown at (_b_). On +the under side of the arrow just behind the barb, a flat notch +one eighth of an inch in depth and two and a half inches in length +is cut, with rounded ends, as seen in the illustration. The bait +stick should consist of a sapling about three feet in length, the +large end being trimmed so +[Page 25] +as to fit in the hole over the arrow while the notch in the latter +rests in the bottom of the aperture as seen in the illustration +(_b_). The trap may then be set. Draw back the arrow, until the +notch rests in the hole in the board. Insert the bait stick _very +lightly_ above the arrow as shown at (_b_), propping it in place +at the angle seen in the main drawing. The bait for a puma should +consist of a portion of some carcass, or if for other animals, +any of the baits given in our section on "trapping" may be used. +In order to secure the bait firmly to the bait stick, a small hole +and a peg at the side of the baited end will effectually prevent +its removal and the trap win thus most surely be sprung. The prop +which sustains the bait stick need be only a small crotch inserted +a little to one side of the trap. The bow should now be surrounded +by a wide pen, allowing room for the spring of the ends. The top of +the enclosure should also be guarded by a few sticks or branches +laid across. Directly in front of the trap and extending from it, a +double row of rough stakes three feet high should be constructed, +thus insuring an approach in the direct range of the arrow. Without +this precaution the bait might be approached from the side, and the +arrow pass beneath the head of the animal, whereas on the other +hand it is sure to take effect in the neck or breast of its victim. +Of course the success of this trap depends entirely upon the strength +of the bow. When a large and powerful one is used its effect is +almost surely fatal. + +Another form of the bow trap, much used in the capture of the tiger, +forms the subject of our next illustration: no bait is here used. +The trap is set at the side of the beaten path of the tiger and +is sprung by the animal pressing against a string in passing. The +bow is large and powerful and is secured to two upright posts about +eight inches apart. The string is drawn back and a blunt stick is +then inserted between the bow string and the inside centre of the +bow, thus holding the latter in a bent position. A stout stick, +with a flattened end is next inserted between the end of the blunt +stick and the inside of the bow, the +[Page 26] +remaining part of the stick extending downwards, as our illustration +shows. To the lower end of this stick a string is attached and +carried across the path in the direct range of the arrow, being +secured to a stake on the opposite side. The arrow is generally +barbed with a steel or flint point, and wound with thread saturated +with a deadly poison. This is now rested on the top of the bow +between the upright parts, and its notch caught in the bow-string. +Everything is then in readiness. The tiger soon steals along his +beaten track. He comes nearer and nearer the trap until at last +his breast presses the string. Twang, goes the bow and the arrow is +imbedded in the flesh of its victim. He writhes for a few moments, +until he is released from his torments by the certain death which +follows the course of the poison through his veins. + +[Illustration] + +The use of the poison is very dangerous: a mere scratch through the +skin is likely to prove fatal, and the trapper is thus likely to +prove his own victim. Poisoned arrows are little used by trappers; +and the bow trap, when properly constructed, is sufficiently effective +without the venom. + + +THE DOWN-FALL. + +This is the famous harpoon trap, so commonly used in Africa for +the capture of the hippopotamus. There is no reason why +[Page 27] +it may not be successfully employed in our own country for taking +large game, or modified on a reduced scale for smaller animals. + +[Illustration] + +The hippopotamus makes his daily rounds in regular beaten pathways; +and the trapper, knowing this peculiarity, turns it to advantage. +This is a common habit with many animals; and these "runways" are +easily detected by the matted leaves and grass and the broken twigs. +Over such a beaten track the harpoon-trap is suspended. + +The harpoon used by the native African trappers somewhat resembles +a double-barbed arrowhead, and has a reflexed prong on the shaft +just behind the barbs,--a sort of combination between a spear and +a fish-hook. It is a terrible weapon; and, when once launched into +the flesh of its victim, its withdrawal is impossible, on account +of the reflexed barb. Any sharp steel shaft will answer the purpose +of the harpoon; it should be eight or ten inches in length, and +filed to a keen point. We will now construct the trap. The first +requisite is a straight section of the branch of some tree. This +should be about four inches in diameter, and four feet in length. +Into one end of this beam the harpoon should be firmly imbedded, +allowing the point to project about six inches. This beam should +[Page 28] +then be weighted with two large stones, attached firmly by a rope, +about eighteen inches above the harpoon. At about six inches from +the other end of the log a notch should be cut, having its flat +side uppermost, as shown plainly in our illustration. The implement +is now ready. + +Select some favorably situated tree, whose branches extend over +the pathway chosen for the trap. By the aid of a rope secured to +the log, and thrown over the limb, the weighted beam may be drawn +up into the tree. While thus held by a person below, the trapper +should climb the tree to complete operations. For this purpose, a +smaller branch about three feet in length should be cut. One end +should be flattened off on both sides, so as to fit in the notch +in the beam; and the part which rests on the limb, as seen in the +illustration, should also be flattened to prevent turning. A piece +of stout Indian twine should next be fastened to the unwhittled end +of the stick, which may then be adjusted in the notch of the harpoon +beam, as seen in the engraving. The string may then be thrown down, +and grasped by the companion below, who holds it firmly, after +which the original rope may be removed. It will be noticed that the +weight of the harpoon and accompaniments rests on the short arm of +the lever which passes over the limb of the tree, and the tension on +the string from the long arm is thus very slight. This precaution +is necessary for the perfect working of the trap. To complete the +contrivance, a small peg with a rounded notch should be cut, and +driven into the ground directly plumb beneath the long end of the +lever. It should be inserted into the earth only sufficiently to +hold the string without pulling out, and the _side_ of the notch +should face the path; its height should be about a foot. Into the +notch the string should be passed, being afterwards drawn across +the path and secured on the opposite side at the same height. The +trap is now set; and woe to the unlucky quadruped that dares make +too free with that string! A very slight pressure from either side +is equally liable to slip the string from the notch, or loosen the +peg from the ground; and the result is the same in either case,--down +comes the weighted harpoon, carrying death and destruction to its +victim. + +For large animals, this made of setting will be found to work perfectly. +When constructed on a smaller scale, it may be slightly modified. +It will be noticed that, when the string is approached from one +side, it is merely slipped out of the notch,--a slight pressure +being sufficient to dislodge it,--while the pressure +[Page 29] +from the opposite direction must be strong enough to lift the peg +out of the ground bodily. This is easily done when the peg is lightly +inserted; but, to _insure_ success, even with _light_ pressure from +either side, an additional precaution may be used, if desired. +Instead of fastening the end of the string securely to some object +on the further side of the path, it is well to provide the end of +the cord with a ring or loop, which should be passed over a nail +or short peg driven in some tree or branch, or fastened into an +upright stake, firmly embedded into the ground. The nail should +point in the opposite direction from the notch in the peg, and +its angle should incline slightly toward the path. It will thus +be seen that an approach from one side forces the string from the +notch in the peg, while an opposite pressure slides the ring from +the nail. + +This mode of setting is especially desirable for small animals, +on account of its being more sensitive. + +Such a trap may be successfully used for the puma, bear, and the +lynx. When constructed for smaller animals, the harpoon may be +dispensed with, a large stone being equally effective in its +death-dealing qualities + + +THE BEAR TRAP. + +This trap is constructed after the idea of the old-fashioned box +or rabbit trap, and has been the means of securing many a hungry +bear, or even puma, whose voracity has exceeded its cunning. The +lynx and wild-cat are also among its occasional victims; and inasmuch +as its prisoners are taken alive great sport is often realized +before the captive is brought under control. + +Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the affair. The sides +are built of stout young tree-trunks, cut into sections and firmly +driven into the ground close together. For a large animal,--a bear, +for instance,--the enclosure should be about seven feet deep, two +and a half feet wide, and four feet high. The top should be built +in with the sides, after the manner of the log cabin, described +in page (244.) The two posts at the entrance should be first set +up. On the back side of each, near the end, a deep notch should be +cut for the reception of the cross piece at the top. This should +likewise be notched in a similar manner on both sides of each end, +so as to fit singly into the notches in the uprights on the one +side, and into the second pair of uprights +[Page 30] +on the other. These latter should next be inserted firmly into +the ground, having been previously notched on both sides of their +upper ends, as described for the cross piece. They may either be +fixed in place and the cross piece sprung in between them at the +top, or the latter may be held in the notches of the first pair, +while the second are being inserted. Continue thus until the full +length of the sides are reached, when the end may be closed by +an upright wall of plain logs, either hammered into the ground, +after the manner of the sides, or arranged one above another in +notches between the two end uprights. The sliding door is next +required. This should be large enough to cover the opening, and +should be made of stout board slabs, firmly secured by cross pieces. +It should be made to slide smoothly into grooves cut into perpendicular +logs situated on each side of the opening, or may be arranged to +slip easily between the flattened side of one log on each side +and the front of the pen. Either way works well. In the latter +an additional upright or short board should be inserted in the +ground at the edges of the sliding door, to prevent the latter +from being forced to either side by the efforts of the enclosed +captive. + +[Illustration] + +There are two or three ways of setting the trap, depending upon +the desired game. For a bear it is arranged as in our illustration. +An upright post, two feet in length, should be cut +[Page 31] +to an edge at one end, and wedged in between the logs at the top +of the trap, near the middle. Across the top of this, a pole seven +feet in length, should be rested; one end being attached by a loop, +or secured in a notch in the sliding door, and the other supplied +with a strong string about four feet in length, with a stick eight +inches in length secured to its end. Through the centre log, in +the back of the pen, and about two feet from the ground, an auger +hole should be made. The bait stick with bait attached should be +inserted through this hole from the inside, and the spindle caught +on the outside between its projecting end and a nail driven in +the adjoining upright. This principle is clearly illustrated on +page 105 at (_a_), and, if desired, the method (_b_) may be used +also. For a bear, the bait should consist of a piece of meat scented +with burnt honey-comb. The odor of honey will tempt a bear into +almost any trap, and even into such close quarters as the above +he will enter without the slightest suspicion, when a feast of +honey is in view. + +For the cougar, or puma, the best bait is a live lamb or a young +pig, encaged in a small pen erected at the end of the trap. A fowl +is also excellent. When thus baited, the setting of the trap is +varied. The upright post at the top of the trap is inserted nearer +the front, and the cross pole is stouter. The auger hole is bored +in the top of the trap, through the centre of one of the logs, and +about twenty inches from the back end of the trap. The spindle is +dispensed with and the end of the string is provided with a large +knot, which is lowered through the auger hole, and is prevented +from slipping back by the insertion of a stick beneath. This stick +should be about three feet in length, and of such a size at the +end as will snugly fit into the auger hole. It should be inserted +delicately, merely enough to hold the knot from slipping back, and +so as to be easily released by a slight movement in any direction. + +This mode of setting is more fully detailed on page 52. As the +puma steals in upon his prey he dislodges the stick, the lid falls, +and he finds himself imprisoned with his intended victim. This +trap is much used in India and Asia for the capture of the tiger, +and the jaguar of South America is frequently entrapped by the +same devices. + + +THE PIT-FALL. + +The tiger is the scourge of India and Southern Asia and some sections +of these countries are so terribly infested with +[Page 32] +the brutes that the inhabitants are kept in a continual state of +terror by their depredations. Many methods are adopted by the natives +for the destruction of the terrible creatures, some of which have +already been described. The pit-fall is still another device by +which this lurking marauder is often captured and destroyed. It +sometimes consists of a mere pit covered and baited in the haunts of +the tiger, or is constructed in a continuous deep ditch surrounding +the habitations of the natives, and thus acting as a secure protection. +The pit is about twelve feet deep and ten feet in width, and its +outside edge is lined with a hedge five or six feet in height. +As the fierce brute steals upon his intended prey, he nears the +hedge and at one spring its highest branch is cleared. He reaches +the earth only to find himself at the bottom of a deep pit, from +which there is no hope of escape, and where he speedily becomes +the merciless victim of a shower of deadly arrows and bullets. + +Happily we have no tigers in the United States, but the puma and +the lynx are both fit subjects for the pit-fall. These animals +cannot be said to exist in such numbers as to become a scourge +and a stranger to the inhabitants of any neighborhood, and for +this reason the "Moat" arrangement of the pit-fall is not required. +The simple pit is often used, and when properly constructed and +baited is a very _sure_ trap. The hole should be about twelve feet +in depth and eight feet across, widening at the bottom. Its opening +should be covered with slicks, earth and leaves, so arranged as +to resemble the surroundings as much as possible, but so lightly +adjusted as that they will easily give way at a slight pressure. +One edge of the opening should now be closely built up with stakes +firmly inserted into the ground, and so constructed as to form a +small pen in the middle, in which to secure the bait, generally +a live turkey, goose, or other fowl. The other three sides should +also be hedged in by a single row of upright stakes three or four +feet in height, and a few inches apart in order that the hungry +puma may whet his appetite by glimpses between them. + +They should be firmly imbedded in the earth directly at the edge +of the pit, and as far as possible trimmed of their branches on the +inside. There will thus be a small patch of solid ground for the +feet of the fowl, which should be tied by the leg in the enclosure. +Our trap is now set, and if there is a puma in the neighborhood he +will be sure to pay it a call and probably a _visit_. + +Spying his game, he uses every effort to reach it through the +[Page 33] +crevices between the stakes. The cries of the frightened fowl arouse +and stimulate his appetite, and at last exasperated by his futile +efforts to seize his victim, he springs over the fence of stakes +and is lodged in the depths of the pit. + +The puma is very agile of movement, and unless the pit is at least +twelve feet in depth there is danger of his springing out. Any +projecting branch on the inside of the stakes affords a grasp for +his ready paw, and any such branch, if within the reach of his +leap, is sure to effect his escape. For this reason it is advisable +to trim smoothly all the projections and leave no stub or knot +hole by which he could gain the slightest hold. The construction +of a pit-fall is a rather difficult operation on account of the +digging which it necessitates. On this account it is not so much +used as many other traps which are not only equally effective but +much more easily constructed. The following is an example:-- + + +THE LOG COOP TRAP. + +This is commonly set for bears, although a deer or a puma becomes +its frequent tenant. As its name implies it consists of a coop of +logs, arranged after the principle of the Coop Trap described on +page 67. The logs should be about eight feet in length, notched +at the ends as described for the Log Cabin, page (244). Lay two +of the logs parallel about seven feet apart. Across their ends in +the notches, lay two others and continue building up in "cob-house" +fashion until the height of about six feet is reached. The corners +may be secured as they are laid by spikes, or they may be united +afterward in mass by a rope firmly twisted about them from top to +bottom. Logs should now be laid across the top of the coop and +firmly secured by the spikes or rope knots. There are several ways +of setting the trap. A modification of that described on page 67 +works very well, or an arrangement of spindle and bait stick, as +in the Box Trap, page 105, may also be employed. In the latter +case, the bait stick is either inserted between the logs at the +back of the coop, or a hole is bored through one of them for this +purpose. For this mode of setting, the coop should be constructed +beneath some tree. It is set by means of a rope attached to the +upper edge of one of its sides the rope being thrown over a limb +of the tree and the loose end brought down and secured to the bait +stick by a spindle, as described +[Page 34] +for the trap on page (195). The limb here acts in place of the +tall end piece of the Box Trap, and by raising the coop up to such +an angle as that it will be nearly poised, the setting may be made +so delicate that a mere touch on the bait stick from the interior +will dislodge the pieces and let fall the enclosure. The _simplest_ +mode of setting the trap is that embodied in the "snare" method on +page (52). The rope is here provided with a knot, which must pass +easily between the logs, or through the hole at the back of the +coop, the length of rope being so arranged as that the coop shall +be sufficiently raised where the knot projects into the interior. The +introduction of the bait stick beneath the knot will thus prevent +the latter from being drawn back, and thus our trap is set. The +bait stick in any case should be about two feet in length; and with +this leverage but a slight touch will be required to spring the +pieces. In the latter method the limb of the tree is not necessary. +A stout crotched stake driven into the ground about twenty feet, +at the back of the coop, will answer every purpose, and the coop +may be constructed wherever desired. This is a most excellent trap +for large animals. It secures the game alive, and is thus often +productive of most exciting sport. For the bear, the bait should +consist of honey or raw meat. Full directions for baiting all kinds +of American game are given under their respective heads in another +part of this book. The Coop Trap may be constructed of any dimensions, +from the small example on page (67) to the size above described. + +There are several other inventions commonly used for the capture +of large animals in various parts of the globe, which would be +of little avail in this country. Such is the African Corrall, or +Hopo, by which whole herds of quaggas, elands, and buffalo are +often destroyed. The trap consists of two hedges in the form of +the letter V, which are very high and thick at the angle. Instead +of the hedges being joined at this point, they are made to form a +lane about two hundred feet in length, at the extremity of which +a giant pit is formed. Trunks of trees are laid across the margins +to prevent the animals from escaping. The opening of this pit is +then covered with light reeds and small green boughs. The hedges +often extend miles in length and are equally as far apart at these +extremities. The tribe of hunters make a circle, three or four +miles around the country adjacent to the opening, and gradually +closing up are almost sure to enclose a large body of game, which, +by shouts and skilfully hurled Javelins, they drive into the narrowing +[Page 35] +walls of the Hopo. The affrighted animals rush headlong to the gate +presented at the end of the converging hedges and here plunge pell-mell +into the pit, which is soon filled with a living mass. Some escape by +running over the others; and the natives, wild with excitement, +spear the poor animals with mad delight, while others of the brutes +are smothered and crushed by the weight of their dead and dying +companions. It is a most cruel and inhuman device, and its effects +are sometimes appalling. + + +THE NET TRAP. + +The lion and tiger are often taken in a net, which is secured to +a frame work and suspended over a tempting bait. When the latter +is touched the net falls, and the victim becomes entangled in the +meshes and is securely caught. So far as we know, this mode of +capture is never tried in this country. For the puma, lynx and +wild-cat we fancy it might work admirably. The net should be of +stout cord, and should be secured to a heavy square frame work, +tilted as in the coop trap, already described. There should be +plenty of slack in the net, and the looseness should be drawn flat +over the framework in folds. The contrivance may be set by a large +figure four trap, page (107), or the device described under the +coop trap, page (67). + +The use of bird lime, for the capture of a tiger, certainly seems +odd; but it is, nevertheless, a common mode of taking the animal, +in the countries where this marauder abounds. The viscid, tenacious +preparation known as bird lime is described on page (97) and is +familiar to most of our readers. For the capture of birds it is +unfailing, when once their delicate plumage comes in contact with +it. Its effect on the tiger is surprising, and many a hunter has +secured his striped foe by its aid. For this purpose, the cans +of the preparation are arranged on elevated boards around a bed +of leaves, in which the bait is placed. A small platform is so +placed that the tiger shall step upon it in reaching for the bait, +which, by the aid of strings, tilts the boards and tips off the +cans. The lime spills on its victim and over the bed of leaves, +and the tiger, in his endeavors to free himself from the sticky +substance only succeeds in spreading it, and as he rolls and tumbles +on the ground he soon becomes completely smeared and covered with +the dry leaves, from which it is impossible for him to extricate +himself. + +In his frantic rage he writhes upon the ground and becomes an easy +[Page 36] +prey to the hunter, who is generally on hand for the fray. + +Steel traps are much used for the capture of large game, and are +made in sizes especially adapted for the purpose. These are described +under the proper head, in another portion of this work; and the various +baits and modes of setting required for the different animals, are +clearly set forth under their respective titles of the latter, +in the section "Art of Trapping." + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Page 37] +[Illustration: SNARES OR MOOSE TRAPS] + + + + +[Page 39] +BOOK II. + +SNARES OR MOOSE TRAPS. + + +[Illustration: T]hese devices, although properly coming under the +head of "traps," differ from them in the sense in which they are +generally understood. A _snare_ naturally implies an _entanglement_; +and for this reason the term is applied to those contrivances which +secure their victims by the aid of strings or nooses. Inventions of +this kind are among the most useful and successful to the professional +Trapper, and their varieties are numerous. The "Twitch-up" will be +recognized as a familiar example by many of our country readers, +who may have seen it during their rambles, cautiously set in the +low underbrush, awaiting its prey, or perhaps holding aloft its +misguided victim. + +Snares are among the most interesting and ingenious of the trap +kind, besides being the most sure and efficacious. They possess +one advantage over all other traps; they can be made in the woods, +and out of the commonest material. + +Let the young trapper supply himself with a small, sharp hatchet, +and a stout, keen edged jack-knife,--these being the only tools +required. He should also provide himself with a coil of fine brass +"sucker wire," or a quantity of horse-hair nooses (which will be +described further on), a small ball of tough twine and a pocket full +of bait, such as apples, corn, oats and the like, of course depending +upon the game he intends to trap. With these, his requirements are +complete, and he has the material for a score of capital snares, +which will do him much excellent service if properly constructed. +Perhaps the most common of the noose traps is the ordinary + + +QUAIL SNARE, + +which forms the subject of our first illustration. This consists +of a series of nooses fastened to a strong twine or wire. They +[Page 40] +may be of any number, and should either consist of fine wire, +horse-hair, or fine fish-line. If of wire, common brass "sucker +wire," to be found in nearly all hardware establishments and country +stores, is the best. Each noose should be about four inches in +diameter. To make it, a small loop should be twisted on one end of +the wire, and the other passed through it, thus making a slipping +loop, which will be found to work very easily. Fifteen or twenty of +these nooses should be made, after which they should be fastened +either to a stout string or wire, at distances of about four inches +from each other, as seen in our illustration. Each end of the long +string supporting the nooses should then be fastened to a wooden +peg. After selecting the ground, the pegs should be driven into +the earth, drawing the string tightly, as seen in our illustration. +The ground around the nooses should then be sprinkled with corn, +oats, and the like, and the trap is set. As a general thing, it +is advisable to set it in a neighborhood where quails are known +to abound; and as they run all over the ground in search of food, +they are sure to come across the bait strewn for them, and equally +as certain to be caught and entangled in the nooses. The writer +has known as many as six quails to be thus caught at a time, on +a string of only twelve nooses. Partridges and woodcock will +occasionally be found entangled in the snare, and it will oft-times +happen that a rabbit will be secured by the device. + +[Illustration] + + +HOOP NOOSES. + +This is a variation from the above, the noose being attached to +a barrel hoop and the latter being fastened to two stout posts, +which are firmly driven into the ground. By their scattering the +bait inside the hoop, and adjusting the loops, the contrivance +is complete. + +This is a very old and approved method. + +In the initial (T) at the head of this section we give also +[Page 41] +another suggestion for a noose trap. The cross pieces are tacked to +the top of the upright, and a noose suspended from each end,--the +bait adjusted as there seen. + +We have mentioned horse-hair nooses as being desirable, and they +are commonly used; but, as it takes considerable time to make them, +and the wire answering the purpose fully as well, we rather recommend +the wire in preference. We will give a few simple directions, however, +for the making of the horse-hair nooses, in case our readers might +desire to use them instead. + +Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (we would +recommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of the hairs +and double it in the middle, hold the double between the thumb +and fore-finger of the left hand, letting the two ends hang from +the under side of the thumb, and keeping the hairs between the +thumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. Now proceed to +twist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, letting them +twist together as the loop emerges on the upper side of the thumb. + +A little practice will overcome what at first seems very difficult. +To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right distance +of separation, and at the same time to twist them and draw the +loop from between the fingers as they _are_ twisted, seems quite a +complicated operation; and so it will be found at first. But when +once mastered by practice, the twisting of five nooses a minute will +be an easy matter. When the entire length of the hairs are twisted, +the ends should be cut off even and then passed through the small +loop at the folded end. The noose is then ready to be fastened +to the main string of support. Horse-hair nooses are commonly used +in nearly all snares as they are always to be had, and possess +considerable strength. The fine brass wire is also extensively +used, and the writer rather prefers it. It is very strong and slips +easily, besides doing away with the trouble of twisting the loops, +which to some might be a very difficult and tedious operation. We +recommend the wire, and shall allude to it chiefly in the future, +although the horse-hair may be substituted whenever desired. + +[Illustration] + +There is another modification of the foregoing quail-traps very +commonly utilized by professional trappers of many countries. A +low hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length small +openings are left here and there, in which the nooses are placed, +as in the accompanying engraving. The bait is strewn around on both +sides of the hedge, and the grouse or other game, on its discovery, +are almost sure to become entangled +[Page 42] +sooner or later. It is a well-known fact about these birds, that +they will always seek to pass _under_ an object which comes in their +way rather than fly over it; and although the hedge of this trap is +only a foot or more in height, the birds will almost invariably run +about until they find an opening, in preference to flying over it. +It is owing to this peculiarity of habit that they are so easily +taken by this method. Our illustration gives only a very short +section of hedge; it may be extended to any length. The writer's +experience with the hedge nooses has been very satisfactory, although +never using a length greater than ten feet. It is well to set the +hedge in the locality where quails or partridges are _known_ to +run. And in setting, it is always desirable to build the hedge +so that it will stretch over some open ground, and connect with +two trees or bushes. Cedar boughs are excellent for the purpose, +but any close brushwood will answer very well. Strew the ground +with corn, oats and the like. A small quantity only is necessary. + +[Illustration] + +There is another noose trap commonly used abroad, and very little +known here. It is a _tree_ trap, and goes by the name of the "triangle +snare." It is not designed for the capture of any _particular_ kind +of bird, although it often will secure fine and rare specimens. +It consists of a sapling of wood, bent and tied in the form of a +triangle, as shown in our illustration. This may be of any size, +depending altogether on the bird the young trapper fancies to secure. +A noose should be suspended in the triangle from its longest point. +This noose should hang as indicated in our illustration, falling +low enough to leave a space of an inch or so below it at the bottom +of the triangle. The bait, consisting of a piece of an apple, a +berry, insect, or piece of +[Page 43] +meat, according to the wish of the trapper, should then be suspended +in the centre of the noose, after which the contrivance should be +hung in some tree to await events. As they are so easily made and +can be carried with so little trouble, it is an excellent plan to +set out with a dozen or so, hanging them all in different parts of +the woods; as, under circumstances of so many being set, scarcely +a day will pass in which the trapper will not be rewarded by some +one of the snares. The writer once knew of a case where a hawk +was captured by one of these simple devices. In this case it had +been set expressly, and the wire was extra strong. This trap, we +believe, is quite common in parts of Germany, but, as far as we +know, has not been utilized to any great extent in our country. +We recommend it with great confidence. + +For the capture of woodchucks, muskrats and house-rats, the wire +noose may also be adapted to good purpose. Many a woodchuck has been +secured by the aid of this simple invention. It is only necessary +to arrange the loop in the opening of the burrow, securing the wire +to a stout stick, firmly driven into the ground. If properly "set" +the animal, on emerging from the burrow, will become entangled, and +by his efforts to disengage himself will only tighten the loop +and thus render escape impossible. For rats, the noose should be +attached to a nail, and the wire similarly arranged over the hole. + +The slipping-noose thus simply adapted becomes a most effective +trap, and is always sure to hold its victim when once within its +grasp, as every struggle only tends to draw the noose tighter. They +are quick in their action, and produce death without much pain, +and for this reason are to be commended. + + +THE "TWITCH-UP." + +Our next example of the snare, we imagine, is one which all our +boy-readers will immediately recognize; for it would certainly +seem that any country boy who does not know the "Twitch-up" must +be far behind the times, and live in a locality where there are +no rabbits, quail, or even boys, besides himself, to suggest it. +This snare is a _universal favorite_ among nearly all country boys, +and our illustration will immediately bring it to mind. Its name, +"The Twitch-up," conveys perfectly its method of working. Our +illustration represents the trap as it appears when set. It has many +varieties, of which we will select the best. They may be divided +into two classes--those with upright nooses, and those in which +[Page 44] +the noose is spread on the ground, the latter of which are commonly +called "ground snares." We will give our attention first to the +"upright" style. These are rather entitled to preference on account +of the harmless death which they inflict, invariably catching by +the neck. Whereas the ground nooses as frequently lift their prey +into the air by their feet, and thus prolong their suffering. +Twitch-ups are the most successful and sure of any snares, and that, +too, without being complicated. The writer, in his younger days, +was quite an expert in trapping, and he can truthfully say that he +found more enjoyment and had better success with these than with any +other kinds of traps he employed. + +[Illustration] + +They are generally set in thickets or woods where either rabbits +or partridges are known to abound. Having arrived at his chosen +trapping ground, the young trapper should first select some slender, +elastic sapling; that of the hickory is the best, and is generally +to be found in open woods--if not, some other kind will answer very +well. It should be about five or six feet in length, (trimmed of +its branches,) and in diameter need be no larger than an axe-handle +or a broom-stick. When this is decided, some spot about five feet +distant from the sapling should then be selected. The hatchet and +knife will now come into excellent use, in cutting the sticks for +the little inclosure shown +[Page 45] +in our drawing. This should be about eight or ten inches in diameter, +and of about the same height. The sticks should be driven into +the ground in a circle, leaving an open space of about six inches +on one side. A stout switch as large as a man's little finger, +and nearly two feet long, should then be cut and nicely sharpened +at both ends. This should then be driven into the ground in the +form of an arch, at the opening of the inclosure. + +We will now ask our readers to turn their attention to the next +illustration, in order to understand what is to follow. This picture +shows the method of setting the trap. + +[Illustration] + +After the arch is firmly fixed in its place, a short piece of stick +should be cut, of a length corresponding to the height of the arch. +To the middle of this stick the bait should be attached, being +either tied to it or stuck on a plug driven into the stick, the +latter being sharpened on one end. Next proceed to cut another +stick, of about six inches in length; let this be flattened on +one end. The wire noose should then be fastened to the opposite +end. The noose in this case should be large enough to fill the +opening of the arch. We will now go back to the sapling again. +It should be bent down slightly, and a piece of the strong twine +should be tied to its tip. Taking hold of the string, proceed to +bend down the end of the sapling, in the direction of the inclosure, +until it draws with a force strong enough to lift a rabbit if he +were tied to the end of it. Thus holding it down with the string +against the front of the inclosure, cut off the twine at the place +where it crosses the top of the arch, as this will be the required +length. It is now necessary to tie the end of this string to the +same piece of wood and at the same place to which the noose was +tied. When this is done the trap may be set as shown in the cut. +The spring sapling should be bent as seen in the first illustration. +The piece of wood holding the noose should be passed beneath the +top of the arch, as far as it will go, with its long end pointing +inside the inclosure. By now supporting the inside end with the +bait stick, and carefully adjusting the noose so as to completely +fill the arch, the trap will be set. + +[Page 46] +In order to reach the bait, the rabbit or bird _must_ necessarily +pass its head through the noose, after which, if the bait be scarcely +_touched_, the animal's doom is sealed, and he is lifted into the +air, generally suffering almost instant death. It is well known +that in the case of a rabbit the neck is broken by a very slight +blow, a strong snap of the finger being often sufficient. It is +therefore safe to conclude that when thus suddenly caught and lifted +by the noose, death must occur almost instantaneously from the +same cause. + +It is not really necessary to success that the force of the sapling +should be strong enough to lift the rabbit from the ground, as a +mere strong tightening of the noose would be sufficient to cause +strangulation and death. But we recommend the former method as +being less painful and more rapid in its effects. + +If the young trapper should experience any difficulty in finding +saplings of the right size, in the locality where he desires to +set his traps, the difficulty may be easily mended by cutting the +poles elsewhere, and carrying them to his trapping-ground, this +answering the purpose equally well. They should be sharpened nicely +on the large end, and firmly stuck into ground. The "Twitch-up" +may be used for the capture of all varieties of game, and when +set with the noose in the opening of a hollow tree, a stray coon +will occasionally be entrapped. + +The next figure represents another method of constructing this +trap, The picture explains itself. Instead of the arch, two notched +sticks are driven into the ground, one on each side of the opening +of the pen, The other piece should be of the shape shown in the +figure, made either in one piece or in two pieces fastened together. +They may all be constructed from twigs in the woods. Let the noose +and draw-string now be fastened to the middle of the cross piece, +and when set it will appear as in our figure. It will easily be +seen that a slight pull on the bait will turn the cross piece from +beneath the notches, and allow it to fly into the air. + +[Illustration: Method No. 2] + +In our next instance the same principle is employed. The +[Page 47] +notched pegs are here driven in the back part of the pen, about +five inches apart, with their notches towards the front. A forked +bait stick of the shape shown is then procured. The draw-string +should be attached near the end furthest from the fork. By now +inserting the ends lightly beneath the notches in the pegs, at +the same time letting the bait incline near the ground, the trap +will be set on a very slight lift, as the bait will dislodge the +pieces. Of course the noose must be arranged in the opening of the +pen, as in the previous varieties. The bait stick in both cases +should be set cautiously beneath the notches, as shown at (_a_), +so that the slightest turn will cause it to roll out of position. + +[Illustration: Method No. 3] + +A fourth method of snaring is shown in our next figure. In this +instance the original arch is used, or else some circular opening +constructed in the front of the pen. Inside, at the back part of +the inclosure, a smaller arch is placed. Two sticks are then to +be made similar to those mentioned in our first example of the +"Twitch-up." Let the draw-string be tied to the end of one of these +sticks; after which it should be passed under the inside arch, being +brought out in front of it, and there supported by the bait-stick, +as seen in our illustration. The noose should then be attached +to the draw-string above the pen, and afterward brought down and +arranged in front of the opening. The trap is then set, and will +be found on trial to work admirably. + +[Illustration: Method No. 4] + +One of the simplest as well as _surest_ of "Twitch-up" traps forms +the subject of our next illustration. Like the foregoing varieties +it is of course to be surrounded by its pen, and supplied with a +circular opening or arch at one side, in which to hang the noose. +It is constructed of three twigs. A simple crotch (_a_) should be +firmly inserted in the ground at +[Page 48] +the back part of the pen; (_b_) the bait stick, consists of a straight +twig, five or six inches in length, and should be attached to the +draw-string at about half an inch from the large end; (_c_) is +another forked stick with unequal arms, the long one being driven +into the ground near the opening of the pen and a little to one side, +letting the remaining arm point directly towards the crotch-stick +at the back of the pen. The noose having been attached to the +draw-string, the trap may now be set. Lower the bait stick and pass +the large end under the crotch at the back of the pen, catching +the baited end underneath the tip of the forked stick near the +pen's opening. Arrange the noose in front of the entrance, and +the thing is done. A mere touch on the bait will suffice to throw +the pieces asunder. It is an excellent plan to sharpen the point +of the forked stick (_c_) where it comes in contact with the bait +stick, in order to make the bearing more slight, and consequently +more easily thrown from its balance. + +[Illustration: Method No. 5] + + +THE POACHER'S' SNARE. + +Our next example represents one of the oldest and best snares in +existence,--simple in construction, and almost infallible in its +operations. It is the one in most common use among the poachers of +England, hence its name. The pieces are three in number, and may +be cut from pine wood, affording easy and profitable employment +for the jack-knife during odd hours and rainy days, when time hangs +heavily. + +The pieces are so simple in form and easy of construction that a +sufficient number for fifty traps might be whittled in less than two +hours, by any smart boy, who is at all "handy" with his jack-knife. + +If a few good broad shingles can be found, the work is even much +easier,--mere splitting and notching being then all that is necessary. +The bait stick should be about eight inches long, pointed at one +end, and supplied with a notch in the other at about half an inch +[Page 49] +from the tip. The upright stick should be considerably shorter than +the bait stick, and have a length of about ten inches, one end being +nicely pointed, and the broad side of the other extremity supplied +with a notch similar to the bait stick. About four inches from the +blunt end, and on the narrow side of the stick, a square notch should +be cut, sufficiently large to admit the bait stick loosely. The catch +piece now remains. This should be about two and a-half inches in +width, and bevelled off at each end into a flat edge. The shapes of +the different pieces, together with their setting, will be readily +understood by a look at our illustration. + +[Illustration] + +A hundred of these pieces will make a small bundle, and may be easily +carried by the young trapper, together with his other necessaries, +as he starts off into the woods. He will thus be supplied with parts +for thirty-three traps, all ready to be set, only requiring the +stakes for the pens, which may be easily cut in the woods. Having +selected a flexible sapling about five feet in length, and having +stripped it of its branches, proceed to adjust the pieces. Take one +of the upright sticks, and insert it firmly in the ground, with +its upper notch facing the sapling, and at about four feet distant +from it. Bend down the "springer," and by its force determine the +required length for the draw-string attaching one end to the tip +of the sapling, and the other near the end of a catch piece, the +latter having its bevelled side uppermost. The wire noose should +then be attached to the draw-string about six inches above the +catch-piece. The pen should now be constructed as previously directed. +Its entrance should be on the side _furthest_ from the springer, +and should be so built as that the peg in the ground shall be at +the back part of the enclosure. The pen being finished, the trap +may be set. + +Insert the bait stick with bait attached into the square notch in +the side of the upright peg; or, if desired, it may be adjusted by +a pivot or nail through both sticks, as seen in our illustration, +always letting the baited end project toward the +[Page 50] +opening. Draw down the catch piece, and fit its ends into the notches +in the back of the upright peg and extremity of the bait-stick. +By now pulling the latter slightly, and gently withdrawing the +hand, the pieces will hold themselves together, only awaiting a +lift at the bait to dislodge them. Adjust the wire loop at the +opening of the pen, and you may leave the trap with the utmost +confidence in its ability to take care of itself, and any unlucky +intruder who tries to steal its property. + +Most of the snares which we shall describe are constructed from +rough twigs, as these are always to be found in the woods, and +with a little practice are easily cut and shaped into the desired +forms. If desired, however, many of them may be whittled from pine +wood like the foregoing, and the pieces carried in a bundle, ready +for immediate use. In either case, whether made from the rough +twigs or seasoned wood, it is a good plan to have them already +prepared, and thus save time at the trapping ground when time is +more valuable. + + +THE PORTABLE SNARE. + +This is simply a modification of the snare just described, but +possesses decided advantages over it in many respects. In the first +place, it requires little or no protection in the shape of an enclosure. +It can be set in trees or in swamps, or in short in _any_ place +where an upright elastic branch can be found or adjusted. Like +the foregoing, it is to be commended for its portability, fifty +or sixty of the pieces making but a small parcel, and furnishing +material for a score of traps. We call it the "portable snare" +partly in order to distinguish it from the one just described, +but chiefly because this particular variety is generally called +by that name in countries where it is most used. + +It is composed of three pieces, all to be cut from a shingle or thin +board. Let the first be about eight inches long, and three-quarters +of an inch in width. This is for the upright. An oblong mortise +should be cut through this piece, one inch in length, and beginning +at about an inch from the end of the stick. Three inches from the +other end, and on one of the broad sides of the stick, a notch +should be made, corresponding in shape to that shown in our +illustration. The bait stick should be four or five inches long, +one end fitting easily into the mortise, where it should be secured +[Page 51] +by a wire or smooth nail driven through so as to form a hinge, on +which it will work easily. On the upper side of this stick, and two +inches distant from the pivot, a notch should be cut, similar to that +in the upright. The catch piece should be about two inches in length, +and bevelled off to a fiat edge at each end. This completes the pieces. + +[Illustration] + +To set the trap, it is only necessary to find some stout sapling, +after which the upright stick may be attached to it close to the +ground, by the aid of two pieces of stout iron wire, twisted firmly +around both. It is well to cut slight grooves at each end of the +upright for the reception of the wires, in order to prevent slipping. +Tie a strong piece of twine around one +[Page 52] +end of the catch piece, knotting it on the beveled side. Cut the +string about two feet in length, and attach the other end to the +tip of the sapling. Adjust the bait stick on its pivot. By now +lowering the catch piece, and lodging the knotted end beneath the +notch in the upright and the other end in the notch on the bait +stick, the pieces will appear as in our drawing. Care should be +taken to set the catch pieces as slightly as possible in the notches, +in order to insure sensitiveness. At about four inches from the +catch piece, the wire noose should be attached and arranged in a +circle directly around the bait. By now backing up the trap with +a few sticks to prevent the bait from being approached from behind, +the thing is complete, and woe to the misguided creature that dares +to test its efficacy. By adjusting the drawstring so far as the +upper end of the catch piece, the leverage on the bait stick is +so slight as to require a mere touch to overcome it; and we may +safely say that, when this trap is once baited, it will stay baited, +so far as animal intruders are concerned, as we never yet have +seen a rabbit or bird skilful enough to remove the tempting morsel +before being summarily dealt with by the noose on guard duty. + +For portability, however, the following has no equal. + + +THE "SIMPLEST" SNARE. + +This is one of the most ingenious and effective devices used in +the art of trapping; and the principle is so simple and universal +in its application to traps in general as to become a matter of +great value to all who are at all interested in the subject. There +is scarcely a trap of any kind which could not be set with the +knotted string and bait stick, at the expense of a little thought +and ingenuity. The principle is easily understood by a look at +our engraving, which probably represents the _simplest_ twitch-up +it is possible to construct. A stout wooden peg, having a hole the +size of a lead pencil near the top, is driven firmly into the +[Page 53] +ground. The "knot" is made on the end of the raw-string, and passed +through the hole in the peg from behind, being secured in place +by the insertion of the bait stick in front. The latter should be +about four inches long, and should be inserted very lightly,--merely +enough to prevent the knot from slipping back. The noose should be +fastened to the draw-string six or seven inches from the knot, +and arranged in front of the bait at the opening of the pen, which +should be constructed as previously directed. The peg should be +about six inches long and the hole should be made with a 1-3 inch +auger. Dozens of these pegs may be carried without inconvenience, +and utilized in the same number of snares, in a very short time. +We have already described the so-called "portable snare;" but, for +portability, there is no noose-trap to be compared with the above. +We give also a few other applications of the same principle. + +[Illustration: Method No. 1] + +In the second example, a horizontal stick is used instead of the +peg, the hole being made in its centre. Its ends are caught in +notches in opposite sticks at the back part of the pen, and the +noose arranged at the opening. + +[Illustration: Method No. 2] + +Again, by a third method (see engraving next page), these notched +sticks may be driven into the ground first, and a row of twigs +continued on them on both sides, thus leaving a passageway between +as represented in the illustration. A noose may then be set at +each opening, with the bait in the middle; so that, at whichever +side it is approached, the result is the same, besides affording +a chance of securing two birds at the same time. + + +THE QUAIL SNARE. + +That quails are sociable in their habits, and that they run together +in broods in search of their food, is a fact well known +[Page 54] +to all sportsmen. A most excellent opportunity is thus afforded +the hunter to secure several at one shot, and the same advantage +may be gained by the trapper by specially arranging for it. For +this purpose there is no invention more desirable or effective than +the snare we next illustrate; and on account of the companionable +habits of the quail, it is just as sure to catch six birds as one. +The principle on which the trap works, is the same as in the three +foregoing. + +[Illustration: Method No. 3] + +Two notched pegs are first driven into the ground, about four inches +apart, and the flat stick with the hole in the centre caught beneath +these summits, as just described. It should be firmly secured; +several nooses are next to be attached to the drawstring, and the +trap set as already directed. + +[Illustration] + +The best bait consists of a "nub" of pop-corn, firmly impaled on +the spindle, together with a few loose grains scattered on the ground +right beneath it. The nooses should be arranged around the bait so +as to touch or overlap each other, and the bait stick introduced +into the hole a little more firmly than when set with one noose. The +quail on reaching the trap all rush for the corn on the ground, +and thus fill nearly if not all the nooses. When the supply here +is exhausted, then united attacks are directed towards the "nub" +on the bait stick, which soon becomes loosened: the knot is thus +released and each noose will probably launch a victim in mid-air. +This invention is original with the author of this work, so far +as he knows; and it will be found the simplest as well as most +effective quail snare in existence. Pop-corn is mentioned as bait +partly on account of its being a favorite food with the quail; +but particularly because the _pecking_ which it necessitates +[Page 55] +in order to remove the grains from the cob, is sure to spring the +trap. If pop corn cannot be had, common Indian corn will answer +very well. Oats or buckwheat may also be used, as the ground bait, +if desired. + + +THE BOX SNARE. + +This is a most unique device, and will well repay anyone who may +desire to test its merits. It may be set for a rabbits, coon, or +feathered game, of course varying the size of the box accordingly. For +ordinary purposes, it should be seven or eight inches square, leaving +one end open. Place it in the position shown in the illustration +and proceed to bore an auger hole in the top board, one and a half +inches from the back edge. + +[Illustration] + +This is for the reception of the bait stick. Directly opposite +to this and an inch from the front edge of the board a notched +peg should be inserted. A gimlet hole should now be bored on a +line between the auger hole and notched peg, and half an inch from +the latter. A small stout screw eye should next be inserted at +the rear edge of the board, and another one fastened to the back +board, two inches from the bottom. With these simple preparations +the box is complete. The bait stick should be about five or six +inches long and supplied with a notch at the upper end. It should be +of such a size as to pass easily into the auger hole, and provided +with a peg inserted through it at about an inch and a half from +the notched end, as shown in our illustration at (_a_). The object +of this peg is to prevent the bait stick from being drawn entirely +[Page 56] +through the hole by the force of the pull from above. The catch piece +should be only long enough to secure its ends beneath the notches in +the peg at the top of the box and the projecting bait stick. It should +be bevelled off at the tips as in the instances previously described, +and attached to a piece of sucker wire, the point of attachment being +at about an inch from the end of the stick. The wire should be about +two and a half feet in length, the catch piece being fastened at about +six inches from one end. To set this neat little invention it is +first necessary to procure a strong and elastic switch about four +feet in length, sharpen it slightly at the large end and insert +it firmly in the screw eye at the back of the box, securing it in +place at the top by strings through the screw eye at that place. By +now attaching the short end of the wire to the tip of the sapling, +inserting the bait stick from the inside of the box, and securing the +catch piece in the notches, the other pieces will be in equilibrium, +and the only remaining thing to be done is to pass the long end +of the wire through the gimlet hole, and form it into a slipping +noose which shall completely fill the opening of the box. In order +to reach the bait the animal must pass his head through the noose, +and it can be easily seen that the slightest pull on that tempting +morsel will release the catch piece and tighten the wire around +the neck of the intruder. Where the trap is small and the captured +animal is large, it will sometimes happen that the box will be +carried a distance of several feet before overpowering its victim; +but it is sure to do it in the end if the spring powers of the +sapling are strong and it is firmly secured to the box. If desired, +the box may be tied to a neighboring stone or tree to prevent any +such capers; but it will generally be found unnecessary, and a few +minutes' search will always reveal it with its unlucky captive. + +We have described the box with its spring attached; but this is not +a requisite, as it may be used with growing sapling when required. + +The same trap may be constructed of a pasteboard box and whalebone, +for the capture of small birds, and used with good success. The +size we have mentioned is adaptable for rabbits and animals of +the same size, but is really larger than necessary for feathered +game. + + +THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE. + +This is another embodiment of the same principle which has already +been described, viz.--the knotted string. By many it +[Page 57] +is considered an improvement on the box snare just mentioned, owing +to the possibility of its taking two victims at the same time. It +may be set for rabbits, mink, or muskrat, and will be found very +efficient. + +[Illustration] + +It consists of a box about eight inches square, one foot in length, +and open at both ends. In the centre of the top board a hole of the +diameter of a lead pencil should be bored, and a smaller aperture +also made in the middle of each end near the edge as seen in the +accompanying engraving. The spring is next required. This should +consist of an elastic switch or small pole, three or more feet +in length. It should be inserted in a slanting auger hole, made +through the middle of one of the side boards near the bottom at +the angle shown at (_a_). Should the switch fit loosely it may be +easily tightened by a small wedge driven in beside it. The bait +stick (_b_) should be about four inches in length, and large enough +to fit easily into the hole in the centre of the top board. Next +procure a stout bit of cord about eight inches in length. Tie one +[Page 58] +end to the tip of the switch and provide the other with a large +double knot. A second knot should then be made, about an inch and +a half above the first. A piece of sucker wire is the next necessity. +Its length should be about five feet, and its centre should be tied +over the uppermost knot in the string. If the bait is now in readiness, +the trap may be set. Bend down the switch until the end knot will pass +through the hole in the centre of the board. When it appears in the +inside of the box, it should then be secured by the insertion of the +top of the bait stick, as shown at (_b_). This insertion need be only +very slight, a sixteenth of an inch being all that is sufficient +to prevent the knot from slipping back. The spring is thus held +in the position seen in the drawing, and the loose ends of the +sucker wire should then be passed downward through the small holes +and arranged in nooses at both openings of the box. Our trap is +now set, and the unlucky creature which attempts to move that bait +from either approach, will bring its career to an untimely end. +The bait stick may be so delicately adjusted as to need only the +slightest touch to dislodge it. Such a fine setting is to be guarded +against, however, being as likely to be sprung by a mouse as by +a larger animal. The setting is easily regulated, being entirely +dependent upon the slight or firm insertion of the bait stick. +Among all the "modi operandi" in the construction of traps, there +is scarcely one more simple than the principle embodied in this +variety, and there is none more effective. + +The box snare already described may be set by the same method, +and indeed the principle may be applied to almost any trap, from +the simplest snare described on page (52) to the largest dead-fall. + + * * * * * + + +GROUND SNARES. + +THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE. + +[Illustration] + +This is the variety of snare which has been in very common use +for ages, and has always been the one solitary example of a noose +trap which our "boys' books" have invariably pounced upon for +illustration. For the capture of small birds it works very nicely; +and as without it our list of traps would be incomplete, we will +give an illustration of it as it appears when +[Page 59] +set and ready for its work. In constructing the affair it is first +necessary to cut a flexible twig of willow or bramble about eighteen +inches in length, and form it into a loop as seen at (_a_), securing +the tips by a few circuits of string, and allowing the larger end +to project an inch or more beyond the other. This loop, which is +called the "spreader," should now be laid down flat; and on the +upper side of the large end and about an inch from its tip, a notch +should be cut as our illustration shows. The spring should next be +procured, and should consist of a pliant, elastic switch, about +four feet in length. A piece of fish line about two feet long, +should now be fastened to the tip of the switch, and the loose +end of the cord attached to a catch piece of the shape shown at +(_b_). This catch may be about an inch and a half long, and should +be whittled off to an edge on one end, the string being attached at +about its centre. A slipping noose, made from strong horse hair, +or piece of fine wire about two feet long, should now be fastened +to the string about two inches above the catch. Having the switch +thus prepared, it is ready to be inserted in the ground at the place +selected for the trap. When this is done, another small flexible +twig about a foot in length should cut, and being sharpened at +both ends, should be inserted in the ground in the form of an arch +(_c_), at about three feet distant from the spring, and having its +broad side toward it. Insert the notch of the spreader exactly +under the top of the arc, and note the spot where the curved end +of the former touches the ground. At this point a peg (_d_) should +be driven leaving a projecting portion of about two inches. The +[Page 60] +pieces are now ready to be adjusted. Pass the curved end of the +spreader over the peg, bringing the notched end beneath the arc with +the notch uppermost. Draw down the catch piece, and pass it beneath +the arc from the opposite side letting the bevelled end catch in the +notch in the spreader, the other end resting against the upper part +of the arc. Arrange the slipping noose over the spreader as our +drawing indicates, bringing it _inside_ the peg, as there shown, as +otherwise it would catch upon it when the snare is sprung. Strew the +bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or the like, _inside_ the +spreader, and all is ready. Presently a little bird is seen to settle +on the ground in the neighborhood of the trap; he spies the bait and +hopping towards it, gradually makes bold enough to alight upon the +spreader, which by his weight immediately falls, the catch is released, +the switch flies up, and the unlucky bird dangles in the air by the +legs. If the trapper is near he can easily release the struggling +creature before it is at all injured, otherwise it will flutter +itself into a speedy death. + + +THE IMPROVED SPRINGLE. + +[Illustration] + +The accompanying cut illustrates an improvement on the last mentioned +trap, whereby it can be used for the capture of larger game, and +with most excellent success. In place of the "spreader" a crotched +stick is used, the crotch of which catches around the peg, the other +end being supplied with a notch as in the case of the spreader. +On the upper side of this stick a small pasteboard platform is +tacked, over which and beneath which the bait is thrown. Instead +of the arc, a stout crotch stick is substituted. The noose should +be at least ten inches in diameter and constructed of sucker wire. +It should be arranged on the ground around the bait and inside +of the peg. When the snare is set, the crotched end of the bait +stick will thus rest near the earth, the notched end only being +lifted in order to reach the catch piece. It is well to insert +a few small sticks inside the edge of the noose in order to keep +it in correct position. If properly set, the quail or partridge +[Page 61] +in approaching the trap will have to step _inside_ the noose in order +to reach the bait, and while thus regaling itself with a choice meal +of oats, berries, or other delicacies, will be sure to press upon the +bait stick either by pecking, or treading upon it, and will thus set +the catch piece free, only to find itself secured by a grasp from +which he will never escape alive. This is a very effectual snare; +but on account of its securing its victim by the legs and thus +torturing them to death, it is to be deprecated. We would recommend +in preference, those varieties already described as being fully as +successful, and far less cruel. They effect almost instant death, +either by broken necks or strangulation, and are in this regard +among the most humane traps on record. + + +THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE. + +[Illustration] + +For simplicity in construction there are few snare traps which +can compare with this variety, although it is somewhat similar +to those last mentioned, and like them, catches by the feet. The +trap consists of three pieces. A catch piece about three inches +long, a bait stick of about six inches, and a stout crotch of the +proportionate size shown in our illustration, a glance at which +will make the setting too clear to need description. Be careful +that the bait stick is set _fine_ and rests _just beneath_ the +_tip_ of the catch-piece so that a mere touch on the bait will +release it. Arrange the noose as in the instance last described, +and bait either as therein directed or with an apple or nubbin +of corn, as our accompanying cut indicates. Always remembering +that the noose should be sufficiently large to require the birds +to step _inside_ of it in order to reach the bait. + + +THE PLATFORM SNARE. + +[Illustration] + +This odd invention will be found to work capitally as a game trap, +and the only extra requisite necessary consists of a slab or light +board about seven inches wide, and a foot in length. Having selected +the spot for the trap, proceed to cut a stiff +[Page 62] +switch about five feet in length, and having sharpened the larger +end to a nice point, insert it firmly into the ground in a slanting +direction as our drawing illustrates. Next bend down the tip of +the sapling, and resting one end of the board on the ground, catch +the tip of the switch against the other end, as our illustration +also shows. A little experimenting will soon determine the right +place for the board, after which two pegs should be driven in the +ground at its edge to hold it against the pressure on the opposite +end. This being done fasten a wire noose to the tip of the switch, +after which the pen is the only thing required. This should be +built of simple little twigs arranged around three sides of the +board, leaving the front end open. To set the snare, lower the +switch and raising the board slightly at the back end, catch the +tip of the springer behind it, afterwards arranging the noose over +the platform, and scattering the bait inside. If the trap has been +constructed properly and set "fine" it will take but a very slight +weight on the platform to lower it from its bearing, the weight of +an ordinary bird being sufficient, and the springer thus released +will fly forward either catching its victim by the neck or legs, +as the case may be. It may sometimes be found necessary to cut +a slight notch in the end of the springer to receive the board, +but in every case it should be tried several times in order to +be sure that it works sensitively. + + + + +[Page 63] +[Illustration: TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME] + +[Page 65] +BOOK III. + +TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. + +[Illustration: A]mong the following will be found the various net +and cage traps commonly used in the capture of winged game, besides +several other unique devices in the shape of box traps, etc., many +of which are original with the author of this work and appear in +the present volume for the first time in book form. Commonest among +bird-catching machines, is the well known invention of + + +THE SIEVE TRAP. + +This device certainly possesses one great advantage:--_it is not +complicated_. Any one possessed of a sieve and a piece of string +can get up the trap at two minutes' notice, and provided he has +patience, and can wait for his little bird, he is almost sure to +be rewarded for his pains,--if he wait long enough. This of course +depends upon circumstances: when the birds are plenty and are not +shy, it is a common thing to secure three or four at once in a +very few minutes, while at other times an hour's patient waiting +is unrewarded. + +The trap consists only of a sieve tilted up on edge and thus propped +in position by a slender stick. To this stick a string or thread is +attached and the same carried to some near place of concealment, +when the trapper may retire out of sight and watch for his "little +bird." The ground beneath the sieve is strewn with bread crumbs, +seed or other bait, and while the unsuspecting birds are enjoying +their repast, the string is pulled and they are made prisoners. +The sieve may be arranged with a spindle as described for the coop +trap, page (68), and may thus be left to take care of itself. Where +[Page 66] +the birds are plenty and easily captured, the former method answers +the purpose perfectly, but when tedious waiting is likely to ensue +the self-acting trap is better. + + +THE BRICK TRAP. + +This is a very old invention, and has always been one of the three +or four stereotyped specimens of traps selected for publication in +all Boys' Books. It is probably well known to most of our readers. + +Take four bricks, and arrange them on the ground, as seen in our +engraving, letting them rest on their _narrow_ sides. If properly +arranged, they should have a space between them, nearly as large +as the broad surface of the brick. A small, forked twig of the +shape shown in the separate drawing (_b_) having a small piece +cut away from each side of the end, should then be procured. Next +cut a slender stick, about four inches in length, bluntly pointed +at each end. A small plug with a flat top should now be driven +into the ground, inside the trap, about three inches from either +of the end bricks and projecting about two inches from the ground. +The trap is then ready to be set. Lay the flat end of the forked +twig over the top of the plug, with the forks pointing forward, +or toward the end of the enclosure nearest the plug. The pointed +stick should then be adjusted, placing one end on the flat end of +the fork, over the plug, and the other beneath the fifth brick, +which should be rested upon it. The drawing (_b_) clearly shows +the arrangement of the pieces. The bait, consisting of berries, +bird-seed, or other similar substances should then be scattered +on the ground on the inside of the enclosure. When the bird flies +[Page 67] +to the trap he will generally alight on the forked twig, which by +his weight tilts to one side and dislodges the pieces, thus letting +fall the sustained brick. + +[Illustration] + +It is not intended to kill the bird, and when rightly constructed +will capture it alive. Care is necessary in setting the topmost +brick in such a position that it will fall aright, and completely +cover the open space. This is a very simple and effectual little +contrivance, and can be made with a _box_ instead of bricks, if +desired. A piece of board may also be substituted for the top brick, +and the enclosure beneath made larger by spreading the bricks further +apart, thus making a more roomy dungeon for the captive bird. + +[Illustration] + + +THE COOP TRAP. + +This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and large +feathered game, and is used to a considerable extent by trappers +throughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures its victims +without harm and furnishes the additional advantage of good ventilation +for the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary coop may be used in the +construction of this trap, although the homely one we illustrate +is most commonly employed on account of its simplicity and easy +manufacture. It also does away with the troublesome necessity of +carrying a coop to the trapping ground, as it can be made in a +very few minutes with common rough hewn twigs by the clever use +of the jack knife. The only remaining requisites consist of a few +yards of very stout Indian twine, several small squares of brown +pasteboard, a dozen tacks and a number of pieces of board five +inches square, each one having a hole through its centre, as our +engraving (_b_) indicates. Having these, the young trapper starts +out with material sufficient for several coops, and if he is smart +[Page 68] +will find no difficulty in making and setting a dozen traps in a +forenoon. + +[Illustration] + +In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cut +four stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen inches +in length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knot +come on the inside as our illustration (_a_) explains and leaving +a loose length of about two feet of string from each corner. This +forms the base of the coop. Next collect from a number of twigs of +about the same thickness, and from them select two more corresponding +in length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the base of the coop +on the ground, and collected the strings inside proceed to lay +the two selected sticks across the ends of the +[Page 69] +uppermost two of the square, and directly above the lower two. +Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cut +and laid across the ends of the last two, and directly above the +second set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of equal +size, one directly over the other. The next pair of sticks should +be a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be placed a +little inside the square. Let the next two be of the same size as +the last and also rest a little inside of those beneath them, thus +forming the commencement of the conical shape which our engraving +presents. By thus continuing alternate layers of the two sticks +cob-house fashion, each layer being closer than the one previous, +the pyramid will be easily and quickly formed. After ten or a dozen +sets have been laid in place, the arm should be introduced into +the opening at the top, and the four cords drawn out, letting each +one lay along its inside corner of the pyramid. Taking the strings +loosely in the left hand and having the twigs in readiness, proceed +to build up the sides until the opening at the top is reduced to +only four or five inches across. The square board will now come +into play. Pass the ends of the cords through the hole in its centre +and rest the edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, taking +care that it is the tip of the grain of the wood instead of its +side, as otherwise it would be likely to crack from the pressure +that is about to be brought upon it. Have ready a stout peg of +hard wood, and laying it over the hole in the board, and between +the strings, proceed to tie the latter as tightly as possible over +it. By now turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightened +and the various pieces of the coops will be drawn together with +great firmness, in which state they may be secured by the aid of +a tack driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shown +at (_b_). Thus we have a neat and serviceable coop, which will +last for many seasons. To _set_ the affair it is necessary to cut +three sticks of the shapes shown in our illustration. The prop +piece is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length from +the tip to the base of the crotch. The spindle is another hooked +twig of the same length: the bait piece is quite similar to the +latter, only an inch shorter and supplied with a square notch at +the tip. It is also slightly whittled off on the upper side to +receive the square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold the bait +and which may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of these +twigs may be easily found in any thicket by a little practice in +searching. In setting the trap, it is only necessary to raise up +one side of the coop to the height of the prop stick, insert the +[Page 70] +short arm of the spindle through the fork and beneath the edge of +the coop. While holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of the +bait stick around the lower piece at the back of the coop, and +pushing the end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the notch +of the bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to be +baited. The bait may consist of oats, wheat, "nannie berries" or the +like, and should be strewn both on the platform and over the ground +directly _beneath_ and around it. If properly set, a mere peck at the +corn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the coop will fall +over its captive. It is not an uncommon thing to find two or even +three quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one fall, and after +the first momentary fright is over, they seem to resign themselves +to their fate and take to their confinement as naturally as if +they had been brought up to it. + +The method of setting the coop trap above described is a great +improvement on the old style of setting, and is an improvement +original with the author of this work. In the old method a semi-circular +hoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick above. The ends +of the rattan are fastened to one of the lower back pieces of the +coop, and the hoop is just large enough to fit inside the opening of +the coop. This rattan rests just above the ground, and the spindle +catches against its inside edge in place of the notch in the bait +stick already described, the bait being scattered inside the hoop. +When the bird approaches, it steps upon the rattan, and thus pressing +it downward releases the spindle and the coop falls; but experience +has shown the author that it does not always secure its intruders, +but as often falls upon their backs and sends them off limping +to regain their lost senses. By the author's improvement it will +be seen that the whole body of the bird _must_ be _beneath_ the +coop before the bait sticks can be reached and that when properly +set it is absolutely certain to secure its victim. The author can +recommend it as infallible, and he feels certain that anyone giving +both methods a fair trial will discard the old method as worthless +in comparison. + + +THE BAT FOWLING NET. + +With English bird-catchers this contrivance is in common use, but +so far as we know it has not been utilized to any great extent in +this country. It is chiefly used at night by the aid of a lantern, +and large numbers of sparrows and other birds are often secured. + +[Page 71] +[Illustration] + +Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the net, which may be +constructed as follows: Procure two light flexible poles, about +eight feet in length; to the tip of each a cord should be attached, +and the same secured to the middle of the pole, having drawn down +the tip to the bend, shown in our engraving. The two bent ends +should now be attached together by a hinge of leather. A piece +of mosquito netting is next in order, and it should be of such +a size as to cover the upper bent halves of the poles, as seen +in the illustration--the bottom edge being turned up into a bag, +about ten inches in depth. The contrivance is now complete, and is +used as follows: Three persons are generally required, and a dark +night is chosen. Hay stacks, evergreens, and thick bushes offer a +favorite shelter to numerous small birds, and it is here that they +are sought by the bird-hunters. A breezy night is preferable, as +the birds perch low, and are not so easily startled by unusual +sounds. + +Great caution, however, is used in the approach. One party holds +the light, which is generally a _dark_ lantern, another takes the +net, and the third arms himself with a switch with which to beat +the bushes. The net is first held upright about a foot from the +bush, and the light thrown upon the back of it. The bush is then +moderately beaten, and the birds affrighted and bewildered fly against +the net, which is instantly closed. The bird is thus captured, and +when a full roost can be discovered a large number may be taken +in a single night. The lantern should be closed while not in actual +use, and everything should be done as quietly as possible. The +dark lantern in itself is useful without the net. The light often +so bewilders the bird that it flies directly in the face of the +lantern and flutters to the ground, where it may be easily taken +with the hand. + + +[Page 72] +THE CLAP NET. + +In Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, this trap is a common +resource for the capture of wild birds of various kinds. It may be +called a "decoy" trap, from the fact that "call birds" are generally +used in connection with it. They are placed at distances around the +trap, and attract the wild birds to the spot by their cries. These +birds are especially trained for the purpose, but almost any tamed +bird that chirps will attract its mates from the near neighborhood, +and answer the purpose very well. Sometimes the "decoys" are entirely +dispensed with, and the "bird whistle" used in their stead. This +will be described hereafter, and inasmuch as the training of a +"decoy" would be a rather difficult matter, we rather recommend +the use of the bird whistle. The skill and absolute perfection of +mimicry which is often attained by bird fanciers. with the use +of this little whistle, is something surprising. + +[Illustration] + +No matter what the species of bird--whether crow, bobolink, thrush +or sparrow, the song or call is so exactly imitated as to deceive +the most experienced naturalist, and even various birds themselves. +Of course this requires practice, but even a tyro may soon learn +to use the whistle to good advantage. + +The clap net commonly used, is a large contrivance--so large that +several hundred pigeons are often caught at once. It is "sprung" +by the bird-hunter, who lies in ambush watching for the game. The +net is generally constructed as follows, and may be made smaller +if desired:-- + +[Page 73] +Procure two pieces of strong thread netting, each about fifteen +feet in length, and five feet in width. Four wooden rods one inch +in thickness and five feet in length are next required. These may +be constructed of pine, ash, or any other light wood, and one should +be securely whipped to each end of the netting. + +Now by the aid of a gimlet or a red-hot iron, the size of a slate +pencil, bore a hole through one end of every piece one inch from +the tip, taking care that the ends selected lay on the same side of +the net. The other extremities of the four poles should be supplied, +each with a large screw eye. Four pegs are next in order--one of +which is shown separate at (_P_). It should be about eight inches +in length, and three inches in width, and an inch in thickness, and +sharpened to a point at one end. The other end should be supplied +with a notch two inches in depth and of such a width as will easily +secure the perforated end of one of the poles already described. +By the use of the gimlet or a red-hot nail, a hole should now be +bored through the side of every peg across the centre of the notch +for the reception of a wire pin or smooth nail. + +The nets may now be rolled up on the poles, and the trapper may +thus easily carry them to his selected trapping ground. This should +be smooth and free from stones and irregularities. Unroll the nets +and spread them flatly on the ground, as seen in the illustration. +Let the perforated ends of the poles be innermost, and allow a +space of six feet between the inner edges of the nets. Draw the +net flatly on the ground, and drive one of the notched pegs at +each of the inside corners, securing the poles into the slots by +the aid of the wire pins or nails. Next cut four stakes eight or +ten inches long. The places for these may be seen by a look at +our engraving. Each one should be inserted _five feet_ distant +from the notched peg, and _exactly_ on a line with the _inside_ +edge of the net--one for each corner. They should slant from the +net in every case. To each one of these stakes a stay-rope should +be secured, and the other end passed through the screw eye of the +nearest pole, drawing the string tightly, so as to stretch the net +perfectly square. Next, take a piece of cord, about twenty feet +in length, and fasten it across the ends of the net into the screw +eyes in the poles. This is the loop to which the draw-string is +attached, and either end of the net may be chosen for this purpose. +To this loop and a _little one side of the middle_, the draw-string +should be fastened. If secured exactly in the middle of the loop, +the two nets will _strike_ when the draw-rope is pulled, whereas +[Page 74] +when adjusted a little to one side, the nearest net will move a +trifle faster than the other, and they will overlap neatly and without +striking--completely covering the ground between them. When the +trap is spread the draw-rope should extend to some near shelter +where the bird-catcher may secrete himself from view. Spreading the +bait on the ground between the nets, and arranging his call birds +at the proper distances, he awaits his opportunity of springing +his nets. At the proper minute, when the ground is dotted with his +game, he pulls the draw-string, and the birds are secured. + +Immense numbers of wild fowl are often captured in this way. + +The "bird whistle," already alluded to, is often used with good +effect, it being only sufficient to attract the birds to such a +proximity to the net as will enable them to spy the bait, after +which their capture is easily effected. + + +THE BIRD WHISTLE. + +This instrument, also known as the prairie whistle, is clearly +shown in our illustration. It is constructed as follows: First, +procure a piece of morocco or thin leather. From it cut a circular +piece one inch and a quarter in diameter. Through the centre of +this disc, cut a round hole, one-third of an inch in diameter. A +semi-circular piece of tin is next required. It should be of the +shape of an arc, as seen in our illustration; its width across +the ends being about three-quarters of an inch, and its entire +length being pierced with a row of fine holes. Next procure a piece +of thin sheet India rubber or gold beater's skin. Cut a strip about +an inch in length by half an inch in width, and lay one of its long +edges directly across the opening in the leather disc. Fold the +leather in half (over the rubber), and draw the latter tightly. Next +lay on the arc of tin in the position shown in the illustration, and +by the aid of a fine needle and thread sew it through the holes, +including both leather and rubber in the stitches. When this is +done, the whistle is complete. If the gold beater's skin is not +attainable, a good substitute may be found in the thin outer membrane +of the leaf of a tough onion or leak, the pulp being scraped away. + +[Illustration] + +[Page 75] +To use the whistle, place it against the roof of the mouth, tin +side up, and with the edge of the rubber towards the front. When +once wet, it will adhere to the roof of the mouth, and by skilful +blowing, it can be made to send forth a most surprising variety +of sounds. The quack of the duck and the song of the thrush may +be made to follow each other in a single breath, and the squeal +of a pig or the neigh of a horse are equally within its scope. In +short, there is scarcely any animal, whether bird or quadruped, +the cry of which may not be easily imitated by a skilful use of +the prairie whistle, or, indeed, as it might with propriety be +called, the "menagerie whistle." + + +THE WILD GOOSE TRAP. + +In our northern cold regions, where the wild geese and ptarmigan +flock in immense numbers, this trap is commonly utilized. It consists +merely of a large net fifty feet in length, and fifteen in width, +arranged on a framework, and propped in a slanting position by +two poles, after the manner of the sieve trap. It is generally +set on the ice; and the trapper, after attaching his strings to +the props, and sprinkling his bait at the foot of the net, retires +to a distance to await his chances. Tame geese are often used as +decoys, and sometimes the bird whistle already described is used +for the same purpose. For the capture of the ptarmigan, the bait +consists of a heap of gravel. It is hard to imagine a less tempting +allurement, but as the food of the birds during the winter is sapless +and hard, it becomes necessary for them to swallow a considerable +amount of gravel to promote digestion. The great depth of the snow +renders this commodity very scarce during the winter season; and +the Indians, taking advantage of this fact, succeed in capturing +immense numbers of the game in nets by the use of that simple +allurement. The gravel is packed on the surface of a pile of snow, +placed under the centre of the net, and the draw-string is carried +to some neighboring shrubbery or place of concealment, where the +trapper can always get at it without being seen by the birds under +the net. + +When everything is thus prepared, the hunters start out into the +adjacent woods and willows, and drive their game toward the nets. +This is generally an easy matter, and, no sooner do the birds come +in sight of the heap of gravel, than they fly towards it _en masse_, +and the ground beneath the net is soon covered with the hungry game. +[Page 76] +The hunter then goes to the end of the line, and, with a sudden pull, +hauls down the stakes: the net fans over the birds, and they are +prisoners. + +Hundreds of ptarmigan are often thus caught by a single sweep of +the net. The trap is simply arranged, and may be constructed on +a reduced scale for smaller birds, if desired. + + +THE TRAP CAGE. + +[Illustration] + +Among bird-catchers generally, this is the favorite and most universal +trap; and, where a _decoy_ bird is used, it is particularly successful. +The cage is arranged in two compartments, +[Page 77] +one above the other,--the lower one being occupied by the call-birds. +The making of the cage requires considerable ingenuity and much +patience; and, for the benefit of those who may desire to exercise +that patient ingenuity, we will subjoin a few hints, which may +help them along in their efforts. For an ordinary cage, the height +should be about one foot, the broad sides the same, and the top +and other two sides eight inches. First cut four corner uprights. +These should be three-quarters of an inch square, and one foot in +length. Next cut a bottom board of pine, twelve inches by eight +inches, and one inch in thickness. From each of its corners, cut a +small cube of the wood, exactly three-quarters of an inch square, +thus leaving four notches, which will exactly receive the ends of +the uprights, as seen at (_a_). Before adjusting these pieces, +the four sides of the boards should be pierced with small holes, +as is also shown in the diagram (_a_). These may be punched with a +brad-awl, and should be about half an inch apart, and three-eighths +of an inch from the edge of the board. Each one of the uprights +may then be secured in place by two long brads, one being hammered +each way into each side of the notch. Next proceed to cut four more +of the square sticks. Two of these should be one foot in length, +and the remaining two eight inches. The corners of these should +now be neatly bevelled off, so as to fit after the manner of a +picture-frame. They should then be attached to +[Page 78] +the upper ends of the uprights by a brad through the corner of +each, as seen at (_b_), the dotted lines indicating the end of +the upright beneath. These sticks should likewise be pierced with +holes to correspond with those in the bottom board, and running +up and down in the direction of the wires. + +[Illustration] + +The middle tier of braces are next required. Two of these should be +ten and a half inches in length, and the other two six and a-half, +and the ends should be perfectly smooth. These should now be punched +with holes corresponding with those above, after which they may +be inserted between the uprights as seen in the engraving, and +secured by a brad at each end. + +The trap door is shown separate at (_c_). The side sticks should +be eight inches in length, and one-half an inch square, and the +top and bottom sticks five inches in length. They should be set +in _between_ the side sticks, and the lower one should be secured +about half an inch above the lower ends of the uprights, as seen +in the illustration. The holes should be made in the side pieces, +and the wire run across from side to side, as shown. Annealed iron, +or copper wire is best for this purpose. The door should now be +pivoted or hinged at the top of the cage, between the long sides, +in such a position as that the top end shall rest on one of the +narrow upper edges of the cage. A stiff wire should be used for +the hinge, being passed through the top pieces of the cage into the +lower ends of the door pieces. The cage may now be wired throughout. +This is an easy matter, if the holes are properly made. About thirty +yards of the wire will be required: iron wire is generally used. +It should be about the size of a hair-pin, and should work easily. +Commence by passing it from the under side of the bottom board +through one of the holes next to the corner. Pass the wire upward, +through the centre braces, again upward through the top piece and +across to the opposite broad side and corresponding hole. From +this point it should pass downwards, through centre brace, and +again through the bottom. Draw the wire tightly and passing it +upward through the hole next to it, bring it over the top of the +cage and around again to the bottom edge from which it started. +Continue thus until the hinge of the door is reached; after which +the wire should be passed up and down on the same side and thus +carried around the small end of the cage until it finally meets +at the door hinge on the opposite side. The two halves of the cage +should now be separated by a grating of wire, as seen in the main +[Page 79] +illustration. This may be accomplished either by passing the wire +from side to side, around the base of each upright wire, or an +additional horizontal row of holes below the others may be punched +for the purpose. The door through which the call-bird is introduced +should next be made in the bottom section. There are two ways of +doing this: one method consists in sawing a hole three inches square +in the bottom board of the cage; and a cover consisting of a piece +of tin is made to slide beneath the heads of four tacks, two of which +are placed on each side of the opening. This form of door is perhaps +the simplest of the two. The other is shown separate at (_f_), +together with its mode of attachment. + +It consists of two side pieces of wood, about a third of an inch +square, and three inches in length, and two shorter ones, two inches +in length. These are arranged into a square framework by a board +in each corner. Four holes are to be pierced in each side piece, +at equal distances. Commencing at the top, the door should then +be wired as directed for the cage. The lowest hole on each side +should be left open for a separate piece of wire. The cage should +now receive attention. The broad side is generally selected for +the door. Find the seven centre wires and connect them across the +middle by another horizontal bit of wire. This may be easily done +with a pair of pincers, by compressing a loop at each end of the +wire around the two which run perpendicularly at its ends. When this +is performed the five intermediate wires should be cut off about +a quarter of an inch below the horizontal wire, and the projecting +tips looped back over the cross piece, and made fast by the pincers. +The lower parts of the upright wires may now be cut off close to the +board. We will now take up the door. Pass a piece of wire through +the holes at the bottom, clap the door over the opening, and loop +the ends of the projecting wire loosely around the upright wires +at each side. This will allow the door to slide easily up and down. +Another wire should now be interlaced downwards through the centre +of the door, and bent into a ring at the top. Let the door rest +on the bottom of the cage, and, while in this position, adjust +the ring at the top around the central wire directly behind it. +The door is then complete, and, if properly made, will look neat +and work easily. + +The "trap" at the top of the cage is next in order. To complete +this it is first necessary to interweave a _stiff_ wire loop, as +seen at (_d_). The loop should extend on the _inside_ of the lower +piece of the door and about two inches below it. The +[Page 80] +_spring_ power consists of a piece of stiff hoop-skirt wire, interwoven +between the wires of the top of the cage, and those of the door, +while the latter is shut. The force of this will be sufficient +to bring down the door with a snap; and for further security a +catch, such as is described in page (88), may be added if desired. + +The spindle is next required. This is shown at (_g_), and consists +of a small perch of wood seven inches in length, and notched at +each end. In setting the trap, the door should be raised as seen +in the main illustration. One of the notches in the spindle should +now be caught beneath the loop and the other around one of the +central wires in the end of the cage. The bait, consisting of a +berry, bird-seed, or what-not, may be either fastened to the spindle +or placed beneath on the wires. The call-bird having been introduced, +the trap may now be left to itself. If the call-bird is well trained +it will not be many minutes before the birds of the neighborhood will +be attracted to the spot by its cries. Ere long one less cautious +than the rest will be seen to perch upon the top of the cage. He +soon discovers the bait, and alighting upon the perch, throws it +asunder, and in an instant the trap door closes over its captive. +The cage is sometimes constructed double, having two compartments +beneath for call-birds, and two traps above, in general resembling +two of the single traps placed side by side. The decoy bird is not +an absolute necessity to the success of the trap. Many birds are +caught simply by the bait alone. The trap cage, when constructed +on a larger scale, is often successfully employed in the capture +of the owl. In this case it is baited with a live mouse or bird, +and set during the evening in a conspicuous place. A trap working +on this principle, being especially adapted to the capture of the +owl, will be noticed hereafter. + + +THE SPRING NET TRAP. + +Although slightly complicated in construction, our next illustration +presents one of the prettiest bird traps on record, and may be +made in the following manner, and by frequently referring to the +picture, our explanation will be easily understood. + +The first step is to make or procure a low flat box, about fifteen +inches long, by ten inches in width, with a depth of about two +inches. Next fasten an interior box, of the same +[Page 81] +height, leaving a space of about three-quarters of an inch between +them all round. A platform should now be made. Let it be of such a +size that it will just fit in the interior box, with a very slight +space all around its edge. It should then be pivoted in the upper +part of this box by two small slender pins, one being driven through +into its edge, at the centre of each end. Let it be sensitively +poised. The next thing to be done, is to arrange the spindle and +catch. The latter should consist of a tack or small bit of wood +fastened on the middle of the platform, about an inch from one +end, as seen both in the main illustration and in the diagram at +(_b_). + +[Illustration] + +The spindle should consist of a flat piece of wood, secured with +a leather hinge to the edge of the outside box, directly opposite +the catch. Let it be long enough to reach and barely hold itself +beneath the catch. When thus in its position, two small plugs should +next be driven into the edge of the inner box, one on each side of +the spindle, thus holding it in place. A glance at our illustration +makes this clear. The netting and "hoop" are next in order. The hoop +should consist of an iron wire of the diameter of common telegraph +wire. + +For a box of the size we have given, a length of about twenty-eight +inches will be found to answer. Before making the hoop, however, +its hinges should be ready for it. Two screw eyes, or staples of +bent wire should be driven into the bottom of the box between the +two walls, one in the exact middle of each side. The iron wire +should now be bent so as to fit round and settle into the space +between the boxes, letting each end rest +[Page 82] +over the screws in the bottom. It will be found that there will +be enough surplus wire on each end to form into a loop with the +pincers. These loops should be passed through the screws or rings +already inserted, and then pinched together; the hinge will thus +be made, and will appear as at (_c_). If properly done, they should +allow the hoop to pass freely from one end of the box to the other, +and settle easily between the partitions. If this hinge should +prove too complicated for our young readers, they may resort to +another method, which, although not so durable, will answer very +well. In this case the wire will only need to reach to the exact +middle of the long sides. No surplus being necessary, a length +of twenty-six inches will be exactly right. On each end a short +loop of tough Indian twine should be tied. By now fastening these +loops to the bottom of the box with tacks, in the place of screws, +it will form a hinge which will answer the purpose of the more +complicated one. + +[Illustration] + +The netting should consist of common mosquito gauze, or, if this +cannot be had, any thin cloth may be substituted. It should be +sewed fast to the iron wire, from hinge to hinge, and then, with +the hoops resting in its groove, the netting should be drawn over the +platform, and tacked to the bottom of the groove, on its remaining +half. It should rest loosely over the platform to allow plenty of +space for the bird. + +But one more addition, and the trap is finished. We have mentioned +the use of elastics in other varieties: they are of equal use here, +and should be attached to the hoop as seen at (_a_) in the section +drawing, the remaining ends being fastened to the bottom of the +groove, as there indicated. These elastics should be placed on +both sides, and stretched to such a tension as will draw the hoop +quickly from one side to the other. + +It will now be easy to set the trap. Draw the hoop back to the +opposite end, tucking the netting into the groove; lower the spindle +over it, resting it between the two little plugs, and securing +its end beneath the catch on the platform. If the bait, +[Page 83] +consisting of bread-crumbs, berries, insects, or the like, be now +sprinkled on the platform, the trap is ready for its feathered +victim. It will easily be seen that the slightest weight on _either_ +side of this poised platform will throw the catch from the end of +the spindle, and release the hoop and the platform in an instant +is covered by the net, capturing whatever unlucky little bird may +have chanced to jump upon it. This is a very pretty little trap, +and will well repay the trouble of making it. + + +A SIMPLER NET TRAP. + +[Illustration] + +Much ingenuity has been displayed in the construction of bird traps +of various kinds, but often the ingenuity has been misplaced, and +the result has been so complicated as to mar its usefulness for +practical purposes. The examples of net traps presented in this +volume are so simple that the merest tyro can readily understand +them. What can be more so than the present example, and yet it +is as sure in its effect, and _surer_ than those other varieties +of more complicated construction. One necessary element in a trap +of any kind is, that the bearings are slight and that they spring +easily. To obtain this requisite it is necessary to overcome friction +as much as possible, using only a small number of pieces, and having +as few joints and hinges only as are absolutely necessary. The present +variety possesses advantages on this account. It is constructed +somewhat on the principle of the ordinary steel trap, and also +resembles in other respects the one we have just described, although +much simpler. We give only a section drawing, as this will be +sufficient. The long side of a flat board of about eight by sixteen +inches is shown at (_a_); (_b_) indicates the loops of a bent wire, +to which the netting is attached, as in the trap just described, +[Page 84] +the loops being fastened to the board as in the other variety; +(_g_) consists of a small bit of wood an inch or so in length and +half an inch in width. It should be tacked on to the middle of +the one end of the board and project about a half inch above the +surface. To the top of this the spindle (_c_) should be attached +by a leather or staple hinge. The spindle should be of light pine, +five inches in length and a quarter of an inch square, bevelled; +on the under side of one end (_d_) is the catch or bait piece, +and should be whittled out of a shingle or pine stick of the shape +shown, the width being about a half an inch or less. One side should +be supplied with a slight notch for the reception of the spindle, +and the other should project out two or three inches, being covered +on the top with a little platform of pasteboard, tin, or thin wood +either glued or tacked in place. To attach this piece to the main +board, two small wire staples may be used, one being inserted into +the bottom end of the piece and the other being hooked through +it, and afterward tacked to the bottom of the trap, thus forming +a loop hinge. Another method is to make a hole through the lower +tip of the bait piece by the aid of a red-hot wire, as seen at +(_d_), afterwards inserting a pin and overlapping its ends with +two staples driven into the bottom board, as shown at (_e_). In +our last mentioned net trap the spring power consisted of rubber +elastic, and the same may be used in this case, if desired, but by +way of variety we here introduce another form of spring which may +be successfully employed in the construction of traps of various +kinds. It is shown at (_o_) and consists merely of a piece of tempered +hoop iron, so bent as to act with an upward pressure. It should be +about three inches long by half an inch wide. About three-quarters +of an inch should be allowed for the two screws by which it is to +be attached to the board. The rest should be bent upward and thus +tempered by first heating almost to redness, and then cooling in +cold water. + +One of these springs should be fastened to the board on each side, +directly under the wire and quite near the hinge, in the position +shown in the main drawing. Now draw back the net, lower the spindle +and catch its extremity in the notch of the bait piece, and the trap +is set as in our illustration. Sprinkle the bait on the platform, +and lay the machine on the ground where birds are known to frequent; +and it is only a matter of a few hours or perhaps minutes, before it +will prove its efficacy. In order to prevent the bird from raising +the wire and thereby escaping, it is well to fasten a little tin +[Page 85] +catch (_f_) at the end of the board. This will spring over the wire +and hold it in its place. + + +THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP. + +The following is another novelty in the way of a bird-trap, somewhat +similar to the one we have just described, in its manner of working. + +Procure two pieces of board about a foot square. Nail one to the +edge of the other, as represented in our engraving. A stout wire +is the next requisite. It should be about thirty inches long, and +bent either into a curve or into two corners, making three equal +sides. Each end of the wire should then be bent into a very small +loop for the hinge. On to this wire the netting should then be +secured as in the two previous examples, after which the ends of +the wire may be tied with string or hinged on wire staples into +the angle of the two boards, as seen in our illustration. Allow +the wire now to lie flat on the bottom board, and then proceed +to tack the netting around the edges of the upright board. Two +elastics should next be fastened to the wire on each side, securing +their loose ends to the bottom of the trap. They should be tightly +drawn so as to bring the wire down with a snap. The spindle of +this trap should be about eight or nine inches long, square and +slender,--the lower end being flattened, and the upper end secured +to the top edge of the upright board by a hinge of leather or string. +An excellent hinge may be made with a piece of leather an inch +and a half long, by half an inch in width, one half of the length +being tied around the end of the spindle, and the other tacked +on to the upper edge of the board. + +The platform is given by itself at (_a_) in the same picture. It +may be made of very thin wood--cigar box wood, for instance, or +even thick pasteboard. It consists of three pieces. The piece which +is hinged into the angle of the boards should be about three inches +in length; the platform piece ought not to be more than four inches +square, and the upright piece only long enough to reach the tip of +the spindle when the platform is raised, as shown in our engraving. +The hinge piece should be cut to an edge on that end where the +leather is fastened, the opposite end being bevelled off in order +that the platform may rest and be tacked or glued firmly upon it. +The diagram (_a_) will make this all very clear. + +When the platform is all made and fastened in its place, the +[Page 86] +trap may be set. Draw the hoop back as far as possible, and lower +the spindle over its edge, catching it behind the upright stick on +the platform. If the trap is properly constructed, the pressure +of the spindle on the platform will suffice to hold it up as seen +in our illustration. The upright stick on the back of the platform +should never be more than an inch and a half from the back of the +trap. If need be, a slight notch may be made in the end of the +spindle and a small tack driven into the back of the upright stick +to correspond to it. By thus fitting the notch under the head of the +tack, it will be sure to hold the platform in the right position. +But it should be carefully tested before setting, to see that it +springs easily. + +[Illustration] + +When thus set sprinkle the bait on the platform, scattering a little +also on the bottom of the trap and on the ground directly around it. +The little birds will soon spy the tempting morsels, and alighting +on the trap are misled, and the slightest peck or pressure on the +platform where the bait is most bounteously spread brings down the +wire and net with a _snap_, and the little creature is secured +without harm. + +[Illustration: Method 2.] + +Our next illustration shows another method of constructing the platform. +It should be about three or four inches square, +[Page 87] +and on the middle of one of its edges the upright catch piece should +be fastened. This piece, as will be seen in our engraving, should +be cut spreading at the bottom so as to admit of being secured to +the platform by two brads, the tip being cut to a point. The total +length of this piece should not be over two and a half inches. When +tacked in place, a third brad should be inserted between the other +two and exactly in the centre of the side of the platform. This +latter brad is to act as the pivot, or hinge, and should project +about a quarter of an inch, as seen at (_a_). On the opposite edge +of the platform another larger brad should be driven, having its +end filed to a blunt point, as in (_b_). If the filing would be +too tedious, a plug of hard wood of the required shape would answer +every purpose. The upright props which support the platform should +be cut of thin wood. Let one be an inch and a half long and half +an inch wide, the other being an inch in length. Each should have +one end whittled to a point, which will admit of its being inserted +in a gimlet hole in the bottom of the trap. These gimlet holes +should be made at least half an inch in depth. Make the first at +about an inch or so from the back of the trap. Into this insert +the shorter pieces, broadside front. Lay the pivot brad of the +platform on the top of this piece and insert over it a small wire +staple, as seen at (_a_). Elevate the platform evenly and determine +the spot for the other gimlet hole, which should be directly beneath +the point of the filed brad. Be sure that it is in the middle of +the board, so that the platform may set squarely, and be perfectly +parallel with the sides. Insert the remaining prop in its place, +and the platform is complete. The overhanging spindle now requires a +little attention. This should be whittled off on each side, bringing +it to a point at the tip. On each side of the spindle a long plug +should then be driven into the back piece, as our illustration +shows. These should be far enough apart to allow the spindle to +pass easily between them. The _setting_ of the trap is plainly shown +[Page 88] +in our engraving. The spindle being lowered between the plugs is caught +finely on the tip of the catch-piece. The blunt point at the opposite +end of the platform should have a slight hollow made for it in the +prop against which it presses. If the platform be now strewn with +bait, the little machine is ready. It is certainly very simple and +will be found very effective. + + +THE BOX OWL TRAP. + +The use of a box trap for the capture of an owl is certainly an +odd idea, but we nevertheless illustrate a contrivance which has +been successfully used for that purpose. + +The box in this case should be of the proportions shown in our +engraving, and well ventilated with holes, as indicated. (This +ventilation is, by-the-way, a good feature to introduce in _all_ +traps.) Having made or selected a suitable box--say, fourteen or +more inches wide, provided with a cover, working on a hinge--proceed +to fasten on the outside of the lid a loop of stiff wire, bent in +the shape shown at (_e_). This may be fastened to the cover by +means of small staples, or even tacks, and should project over +the edge about two inches. When this is done, the lid should be +raised to the angle shown in our illustration, and the spot where +the end of the wire loop touches the back of the box should be +marked and a slit cut through the wood at this place, large enough +for the angle of the loop to pass through. Two elastics should +now be fastened to the inside of the box, being secured to the +bottom at the side, and the other to the edge of the cover, as +seen in the illustration. They should be sufficiently strong to +draw down the cover quickly. The perch, or spindle, should consist +of a light stick of wood, as shown at (_b_,) one end provided with +a slight notch, and the other fastened to the inside of the front +of the box by a string or leather hinge, (_c_,) keeping the notch on +the _upper_ side of the stick. It will be now seen that by opening +the cover, until the loop enters through the groove, and by then +hooking the notch in the spindle _under_ the loop as seen at (_a_) +the trap will be set, and if properly done it will be found that a +very slight weight on the spindle will set it free from the loop +and let the cover down with swiftness. + +To secure the cover in place a small tin catch should now be applied +to the front edge of the box, as shown in the illustration. A piece +of tin two inches in length by a half an inch in breadth will answer +for this purpose. One end should be bent +[Page 89] +down half an inch at a pretty sharp angle, and the other attached +by two tacks, to the edge of the box, in the position shown in +the cut. This precaution will effectually prevent the escape of +whatever bird, large or small, the trap may chance to secure. It +is a necessary feature of the trap, as without it the elastics +might be torn asunder and the lid thereby easily raised. + +[Illustration] + +This trap may be baited in a variety of ways. As it is particularly +designed for a _bird_ trap, it is well to sprinkle the bottom of +the box with berries, bird-seed, small insects, such as crickets, +grasshoppers, etc. These latter are very apt to jump out, and it +may be well to fasten one or two of them to the bottom with a pin +through the body, just behind the head. + +There are many kinds of birds which live almost exclusively on +insects; and as this bait is of rather a lively kind, there is +scarcely any other method to retain them in their position. A bird +on approaching this trap will almost irresistibly alight on the +perch, and if not at _first_, it is generally sure to do so before +long. If desired, a pasteboard platform may be fastened on the +[Page 90] +top of the perch with small tacks, and the bait scattered upon +it. This will act in the same manner, and might, perhaps, be a +trifle more certain. We will leave it to our readers to experiment +upon. + +We have given this variety the name of "owl-trap," because it may +be used with success in this direction. When set for this purpose, +it should be baited with a live mouse, small rat or bird, either +fastened to the bottom of the trap, if a bird, or set in with the +trap inclosing it, if a mouse. A small bird is the preferable bait, +as it may be easily fastened to the bottom of the box by a string, +and as a general thing is more sure to attract the attention of +the owl by its chirping. + +The trap should be set in an open, conspicuous spot, in the neighborhood +where the owls in the night are heard to "hoot." The chances are +that the box will contain an owl on the following morning. + +This bird is a very interesting and beautiful creature, and if our +young reader could only catch one, and find rats and mice enough +to keep it well fed, he would not only greatly diminish the number +of rats in his neighborhood, but he would realize a great deal +of enjoyment in watching and studying the habits of the bird. + +Should it be difficult to supply the above mentioned food, raw +meat will answer equally well. The bird should either be kept in +a cage or inclosure and in the latter case, its wings will require +to be clipped. + + +THE BOX BIRD TRAP. + +Here we have another invention somewhat resembling the foregoing. +Our engraving represents the arrangement of the parts as the trap +appears when set. + +[Illustration] + +The box may be of almost any shape. A large sized cigar box has +been used with excellent success, and for small birds is just the +thing. The cover of the box in any case should work on a hinge of +some sort. The trap is easily made. The first thing to be done +is to cut an upright slot, about two inches in length, through +the centre of the backboard, commencing at the upper edge. To the +inside centre edge of the cover a small square strap, about four +inches in length, should then be secured. It should be so adjusted +as that one-half shall project toward the inside of the box, as +seen in the illustration, and at the same time pass easily through +[Page 91] +the slot beneath where the cover is closed. The lid should now be +supplied with elastics as described in the foregoing. Next in order +comes the bait stick. Its shape is clearly shown in our illustration, +and it may be either cut in one piece or consist of two parts joined +together at the angle. To the long arm the bait should be attached +and the upright portion should be just long enough to suspend the +cover in a position on a line with the top of the box. The trap may +now be set, as seen in our illustration, and should be supplied with +the necessary tin catch, described in the foregoing. + + +THE PENDENT BOX TRAP. + +This invention is original with the author of this work, and when +properly made and set will prove an excellent device for the capture +of small birds. + +The general appearance of the trap, as set, is clearly shown in +our illustration. A thin wooden box is the first requisite, it +should be about a foot square and six inches in depth, and supplied +with a close fitting cover, working on hinges. The sides should then +be perforated with a few auger holes for purposes of ventilation. + +Two elastics are next in order, and they should be attached to the +cover and box, one on each side, as shown at (_a_.) They should be +drawn to a strong tension, so as to hold the cover firmly against +the box. + +The mechanism of the trap centres in the bait stick which differs +in construction from any other described in this book. + +It should be made about the size of a lead pencil, and eleven +[Page 92] +inches or so in length, depending of course upon the size of the +box. + +It should then be divided in two pieces by a perfectly flat cut, +the longer part being six inches in length. This piece should be +attached to the back board of the box by a small string and a tack, +as shown at (_c_), its end being bluntly pointed. Its attachment +should be about five inches above the bottom board, and in the +exact centre of the width of the back. + +[Illustration] + +Near the flat end of the other piece the bait consisting of a berry +or other fruit, should be secured, and the further extremity of +the stick should then be rounded to a blunt point. The trap is now +easily set. Raise the lid and lift the long stick to the position +given in the illustration. Adjust the flat end of the bait stick +against that of the former, and allow the pressure of the lid to +bear against the blunt point of the short stick at (_d_), as shown +in the illustration, a straight dent being made in the cover to +receive it, as also in the hack of the box for the other piece. +If properly constructed, this pressure will be sufficient to hold +the sticks end to end, as our engraving represents, and the trap is +[Page 93] +thus set. The slightest weight on the false perch thus made will +throw the parts asunder, and the cover closes with a snap. + +The greatest difficulties in constructing the trap will be found +in the bearings of the bait sticks (_b_), the ends of which must +be perfectly flat and join snugly, in order to hold themselves +together. The box may now be suspended in a tree by the aid of a +string at the top. The first bird that makes bold enough to alight +on the perch is a sure captive, and is secured without harm. If +desired, the elastic may be attached to the inside of the cover, +extending to the back of the box, as seen in the initial at the head +of this chapter. If the elastic in any event shows tendencies toward +relaxing, the tin catch described on page 88 should be adjusted +to the lower edge of the box to insure capture. + + +THE HAWK TRAP. + +[Illustration] + +Our illustration represents a hawk in a sad plight. The memory of +a recent feast has attracted it to the scene of many of +[Page 94] +its depredations: but the ingenious farmer has at last outwitted +his feathered foe and brought its sanguinary exploits to a timely +end. This trap is a "Yankee" invention and has been used with great +success in many instances where the hawk has become a scourge to the +poultry yard. The contrivance is clearly shown in an illustration, +consisting merely of a piece of plank two feet square, set with +stiff perpendicular pointed wires. + +This affair was set on the ground in a conspicuous place, the board +covered with grass, and the nice fat Poland hen which was tied to +the centre proved a morsel too tempting for the hawk to resist. +Hence the "fell swoop" and the fatal consequences depicted in our +illustration. The owl has also been successfully captured by the +same device. + + +THE WILD DUCK NET. + +Following will be found two examples of traps in very common use +for the capture of wild ducks, and in the region of Chesapeake +bay, immense numbers of the game are annually taken by their aid. +The first is the well known net trap, so extensively used in nearly +all countries, both for the capture of various kinds of fish as +well as winged game. Our illustration gives a very clear idea of +the construction of the net, and an elaborate description is almost +superfluous. It consists of a graduated series of hoops covered +by a net work. From each a converging net extends backward ending +in a smaller hoop which is held in position by cords extending +[Page 95] +therefrom to the next larger hoop. The depth of these converging +nets should extend backward about three or four feet from the large +hoop; and the distance between these latter should be about five +feet. The length of the net should be about twenty feet, terminating +in a "pound" or netted enclosure, as seen in the illustration. The +trap may be set on shore or in the water as seen. "Decoy" birds are +generally used, being enclosed in the pound. + +[Illustration] + +When set on land the bait consisting of corn or other grain should +be spread about the entrance and through the length of the net. + +It is remarkable that a duck which so easily finds its way within +the netted enclosure, should be powerless to make its escape, but +such seems to be the fact, and even a single hoop with its reflex +net, has been known to secure a number of the game. + + +THE HOOK TRAP + +[Illustration] + +Our second example is one which we are almost tempted to exclude +on account of its cruelty, but as our volume is especially devoted +to traps of all kinds and as this is a variety in very common use, +we feel bound to give it a passing notice. Our illustration fully +conveys its painful mode of capture, and a beach at low water is +generally the scene of the slaughter. A long stout cord is first +stretched across the sand and secured +[Page 96] +to a peg at each end. To this shorter lines are attached at intervals, +each one being supplied with a fish hook baited with a piece of +the tender rootstock of a certain water reed, of which the ducks +are very fond. The main cord and lines are then imbedded in the +sand, the various baits only appearing on the surface, and the +success of the device is equal to its cruelty. + + +THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP. + +Of all oddities of the trap kind, there is, perhaps, no one more +novel and comical than the "Fool's Cap" crow-trap, which forms +the subject of our present illustration. Crows are by no means +easy of capture in any form of trap, and they are generally as +coy and as shrewd in their approach to a trap as they are bold in +their familiarity and disrespect for the sombre scarecrows in the +com field. But this simple device will often mislead the smartest +and shrewdest crow, and make a perfect _fool_ of him, for it is +hard to imagine a more ridiculous sight than is furnished by the +strange antics and evolutions of a crow thus embarrassed with his +head imbedded in a cap which he finds impossible to remove, and +which he in vain endeavors to shake off by all sorts of gymnastic +performance. The secret of the little contrivance is easily told. +The cap consists of a little cone of stiff paper, about three or +four inches in diameter at the opening. This is imbedded in the +ground, up to its edge, and a few grains of corn are dropped into +it. The inside edge of the opening is then smeared with _bird-lime_, +[Page 97] +a substance of which we shall speak hereafter. + +[Illustration] + +The crow, on endeavoring to reach the corn, sinks his bill so deep +in the cone as to bring the gummy substance in contact with the +feathers of his head and neck, to which it adheres in spite of +all possible efforts on the part of the bird to throw it off. + +The cones may be made of a brownish-colored paper if they are to +be placed in the earth, but of white paper when inserted in the +snow. It is an excellent plan to insert a few of these cones in +the fresh corn hills at planting season, as the crows are always on +the watch at this time, and will be sure to partake of the tempting +morsels, not dreaming of the result. The writer has often heard +of this ingenious device, and has read of its being successfully +employed in many instances, but he has never yet had an opportunity +of testing it himself. He will leave it for his readers to experiment +upon for themselves. + + +BIRD LIME. + +This substance so called to which we have above alluded, and which +is sold in our bird marts under that name, is a viscid, sticky +preparation, closely resembling a very thick and gummy varnish. +It is astonishingly "sticky," and the slightest quantity between +the fingers will hold them together with remarkable tenacity. What +its effect must be on the feathers of a bird can easily be imagined. + +[Illustration] + +This preparation is put up in boxes of different sizes, and may +be had from any of the taxidermists or bird-fanciers in any of +[Page 98] +our large towns or cities. Should a _home made_ article be required, +an excellent substitute may be prepared from the inner bark of the +"slippery elm." This should be gathered in the spring or early +summer, cut into very small pieces or scraped into threads, and +boiled in water sufficient to cover them until the pieces are soft +and easily mashed. By this time the water will be pretty much boiled +down, and the whole mass should then be poured into a mortar and +beaten up, adding at the same time a few grains of wheat. When +done, the paste thus made may be put into an earthen vessel and +kept. When required to be used, it should be melted or softened +over the fire, adding goose grease or linseed oil, instead of water. +When of the proper consistency it may be spread upon sticks or +twigs prepared for it, and which should afterwards be placed in +the locality selected for the capture of the birds. + +An excellent bird-lime may be made also from plain linseed-oil, +by boiling it down until it becomes thick and gummy. Thick varnish +either plain or mixed with oil, but always free from alcohol, also +answers the purpose very well. The limed twigs may be either set +in trees or placed on poles and stuck in the ground. + +If any of our readers chance to become possessed of an owl, they +may look forward to grand success with their limed twigs. It is a +well known fact in natural history that the _owl_ is the universal +enemy of nearly all our smaller birds. And when, as often happens, +a swarm of various birds are seen flying frantically from limb to +limb, seeming to centre on a particular tree, and filling the air +with their loud chirping, it may be safely concluded that some sleepy +owl has been surprised in his day-dozing, and is being severely +pecked and punished for his nightly depredations. + +Profiting from this fact, the bird catcher often utilizes the owl +with great success. Fastening the bird in the crotch of some tree, +he adjusts the limed twigs on an sides, even covering the neighboring +branches with the gummy substance. No sooner is the owl spied by +_one_ bird than the cry is set up, and a _score_ of foes are soon +at hand, ready for battle. One by one they alight on the beguiling +twigs, and one by one find themselves held fast. The more they flutter +the more powerless they become, and the more securely are they held. +In this way many valuable and rare birds are often captured. + + +[Page 99] +THE HUMMING BIRD TRAP. + +One of the most ingenious uses to which bird lime is said to have +been applied with success, is in the capture of humming-birds. +The lime in this instance is made simply by chewing a few grains +of wheat in the mouth until a gum is formed. It is said that by +spreading this on the inside opening of the long white lily or +trumpet-creeper blossom, the capture of a humming-bird is almost +certain, and he will never be able to leave the flower after once +fairly having entered the opening. There can be no doubt but that +this is perfectly practicable, and we recommend it to our readers. + +The object in making the bird-lime from wheat consists in the fact +that this is more easily removed from the feathers than the other +kinds. + +We would not wish our readers to infer from this that a humming-bird +might be captured or kept alive, for of all birds, they are the most +fragile and delicate, and would die of _fright_, if from nothing +else. They are chiefly used for ornamental purposes, and may be +caught in a variety of ways. A few silk nooses hung about the flowers +where the birds are seen to frequent, will sometimes succeed in +ensnaring their tiny forms. + +The blow-gun is often used with good success, and the concussion +from a gun loaded simply with powder, and aimed in the direction +of the bird, will often stun it so that it will fall to the ground. +If a strong stream of water be forced upon the little creature, as +it is fluttering from flower to flower, the result is the same, +as the feathers become so wet that it cannot fly. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Page 101] +[Illustration: MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS] + +[Page 103] +BOOK IV. + +MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. + + +THE COMMON BOX TRAP. + +[Illustration: T]he following chapter includes a variety of traps +which have not been covered by any of the previous titles. Several +novelties are contained in the list, and also a number of well +known inventions. + +There is probably no more familiar example of the trap kind than +that of the common wooden box-trap, better known, perhaps, by our +country boys as the rabbit-trap. A glance at our illustration, will +readily bring it to mind, and easily explain its working to those +not particularly acquainted with it. These traps may be made of any +size, but, being usually employed in catching rabbits, require to +be made quite large. They should be made of hard seasoned wood--oak +or chestnut is the best--and of slabs about an inch in thickness. +The pieces may be of the following dimensions: let the bottom board +be 20+7 in.; side board, 20+9 in.; lid board 19+7 in., and the +end piece of lid 7 in. square. + +The tall end piece should be about 16 inches high by 7 broad. Let +this be sharpened on the upper end, as seen in the engraving, and +furnished with a slight groove on the summit, for the reception +of the cord. Now to put the pieces together. + +Nail the two sides to the edge of the bottom board, and fit in +between them the high end piece, securing that also, with nails +through the bottom and side boards. Next nail the lid board on +to the small, square end piece, and fit the lid thus made neatly +into its place. + +To make the hinge for the lid, two small holes should be bored +through the sides of the trap, about four inches from the tall end, +and half an inch from the upper edge of each board. Let +[Page 104] +small nails now be driven through these holes into the edge of the +lid, and it will be found to work freely upon them. + +[Illustration] + +The principal part of the trap is now made, but what remains to be +done is of great importance. The "spindle" is a necessary feature +in nearly all traps, and the box-trap is useless without it. In +this case it should consist merely of a round stick of about the +thickness of a lead pencil, and we will say, 7 or 8 in. in length. +One end should be pointed and the other should have a small notch +cut in it, as seen in the separate drawing of the stick. The spindle +being ready, we must have some place to put it. Another hole should +be bored through the middle of the high end piece, and about 4 in. +from the bottom. This hole should be large enough to allow the +spindle to pass easily through it. If our directions have been +carefully followed, the result will now show a complete, closefitting +trap. + +In setting the trap there are two methods commonly employed, as +shown at _a_ and _b_. The string, in either case, must be fastened +to the end of the lid. + +In the first instance (_a_) the lid is raised and made fast by the +brace, holding itself beneath the tip of the projecting spindle, +and a nail or plug driven into the wood by the side of the hole. +[Page 105] +Of course, when the spindle is drawn or moved from the inside the +brace will be let loose and the lid will drop. + +In the other method (_b_) the spindle is longer, and projects several +inches on the outside of the hole. The brace is also longer, and +catches itself in the notch on the end of the spindle, and another +slight notch in the board, a few inches above the hole. + +[Illustration] + +When the bait is touched from the inside, the brace easily flies +out and the lid falls, securing its victim. Either way is sure +to succeed, but if there is any preference it is for the former +(_a_). It is a wise plan to have a few holes through the trap in +different places, to allow for ventilation, and it may be found +necessary to line the cracks with tin, as sometimes the enclosed +creature might otherwise gnaw through and make its escape. If there +is danger of the lid not closing tightly when sprung, a stone may +be fastened upon it to insure that result. + +This trap is usually set for rabbits, and these dimensions are +especially calculated with that idea. Rabbits abound in all our +woods and thickets, and may be attracted by various baits. An apple +is most generally used. The box-trap may be made of smaller dimensions, +and set in trees for squirrels with very good success. + +There is still another well known form of this trap represented +in the tail piece at the end of this section. The box is first +constructed of the shape already given, only having the lid piece +[Page 106] +nailed firmly in the top of the box. The tall end piece is also +done away with. The whole thing thus representing a simple oblong +box with one end open. Two slender cleats should be nailed on each +side of this opening, on the interior of the box, to form a groove +into which a square end board may easily slide up and down, the +top board being slightly sawn away to receive it. An upright stick +should then be erected on the top centre of the box, in the tip of +which a straight stick should be pivoted, working easily therein, +like the arms of a balance. To one end of this balance, the end +board should be adjusted by two screw eyes, and to the other the +string with spindle attached. By now lowering the spindle to its +place, the further end of the balance will be raised and with it +the end board, and on the release of the spindle the board will +fall. This plan is quite commonly adopted but we rather prefer +the former. But as each has its advantages we present them both. + + +ANOTHER BOX TRAP. + +This works after the manner of the ordinary wire rat-trap; our +illustration explains itself. + +[Illustration] + +The box should be of the shape there shown, with one of its end +pieces arranged on hinges so as to fall freely. An elastic should +be fastened from the inside of this end to the inner surface of +the top of the box, to insure its closing. If desired an elastic +may be adjusted at the side as shown in the cut and a catch piece +of stout tin should be attached to the bottom of the trap to secure +the lid when it falls. A small hole should then be bored in the +top, near the further end of the trap, and +[Page 107] +the spindle, having a notch on its upper end, passed through the +hole thus made. The top of the spindle is shown at (_a_). It should +be held in its place by a small plug or pin through it, below the +surface of the box. A slender stick, long enough to reach and catch +beneath the notch in the spindle should now be fastened to the lid +and the trap is complete. It may be baited with cheese, bread, +and the like, and if set for squirrels, an apple answers every +purpose. + +When constructed on a larger and heavier scale it may be used for +the capture of rabbits and animals of a similar size, but for this +purpose the previous variety is preferable. + + +THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP. + +[Illustration] + +One of the most useful as well as the most ancient inventions in +the way of traps is the common _Figure Four Trap_, which forms +the subject of our next illustration. It is a very ingenious +contrivance, and the mechanism, consists merely of three sticks. +It possesses great advantages in the fact that it may be used in +a variety of ways, and a number of the machines may be carried by +the young trapper with very little inconvenience. Our illustration +shows the trap already set, only awaiting for a slight touch at +the bait to bring the heavy stone to the ground. A box may be +substituted for the stone, and the animal may thus be +[Page 108] +captured alive. The three sticks are represented separate at _a_. +_b_. and _c_. Of course, there is no regular size for them, as this +would greatly depend upon the purpose for which they are designed +to be used. If for rabbits, the following proportions will answer +very well. The sticks should all be square, and about half an inch +in thickness. The bait-stick, (_a_) should be about nine or ten +inches in length, one end being pointed and the other furnished +with a notch, as indicated. The upright stick, (_b_) should be +a little shorter, one end being whittled to a rather sharp edge. +At about three or four inches from the other end, and on the side +next to that whittled, a square notch should be cut. This should +be about a third of an inch in depth and half an inch in width, +being so cut as exactly to receive the bait-stick without holding +it fast. The remaining stick (_c_) should have a length of about +seven or eight inches, one end being whittled, as in the last, +to an edge, and the other end furnished with a notch on the same +side of the stick. + +[Illustration] + +When these are finished, the trap may be set in the following manner: +Place the upright stick, (_b_) with its pointed end uppermost. +Rest the notch of the slanting stick, (_c_) on the summit of the +upright stick, placing the stone upon its end, and holding the +stick in position with the hand. By now hooking the notch in the +bait-stick on the sharpened edge of the slanting stick and fitting +it into the square notch in the upright, it may easily be made to +catch and hold itself in position. The bait should always project +beneath the stone. In case a box is used instead of a stone, the +trap may be set either inside of it or beneath its edge. Where the +ground is very soft, it would be well to rest the upright stick +on a chip or small flat stone, as otherwise it is apt to sink into +the earth by degrees and spring by itself. + +When properly made, it is a very sure and sensitive trap, and the +bait, generally an apple, or "nub" of corn is seldom more than +touched when the stone falls. + + +[Page 109] +THE "DOUBLE ENDER." + +[Illustration] + +This is what we used to call it in New England and it was a great +favorite among the boys who were fond of rabbit catching. It was +constructed of four boards two feet in length by nine inches in +breath secured with nails at their edges, so as to form a long +square box. Each end was supplied with a heavy lid working on two +hinges. To each of these lids a light strip of wood was fastened, +the length of each being sufficient to reach nearly to the middle +of the top of the box, as seen in the illustration. At this point +a small auger hole was then made downward through the board. A +couple of inches of string was next tied to the tip of each stick +and supplied with a large knot at the end. The trap was then set on +the simple principle of which there are so many examples throughout +the pages of this work. The knots were lowered through the auger +hole and the insertion of the bait stick inside the box held them +in place. The edge of the bottom board on each end of the trap +should be supplied with a tin catch such as is described on page +88 in order to hold the lid in place after it has fallen. No matter +from which end the bait is approached it is no sooner touched than +both ends fall and "_bunny_" is prisoner. Like many other of our +four-footed game, the rabbit manifests a peculiar liking for salt +and may be regularly attracted to a given spot by its aid. A salted +cotton string is sometimes extended several yards from the trap +for the purpose of leading them to it, but this seems a needless +precaution, as the rabbit is seldom behind hand in discerning a +tempting bait when it is within his reach. + + +[Page 110] +THE SELF SETTING TRAP. + +One of the oldest known principles ever embodied in the form of a +trap is that which forms the subject of the accompanying illustration. +It is very simple in construction, sure in its action; and as its +name implies, resets itself after each intruder has been captured. + +[Illustration] + +It is well adapted for Rabbits and Coons and when made on a small +scale, may be successfully employed in taking rats and mice. It +is also extensively used in the capture of the Mink and Muskrat, +being set beneath the water, near the haunts of the animals and +weighted by a large stone. Of course the size of the box will be +governed by the dimensions of the game for which it is to be set. +Its general proportions should resemble those of the illustration, +both ends being open. A small gate, consisting of a square piece +of wood supplied with a few stiff wires is then pivoted inside +each opening, so as to work freely and fall easily when raised. +The bait is fastened inside at the centre of the box. The animal, +in quest of the bait, finds an easy entrance, as the wires lift +at a slight pressure, but the exit after the gate has closed is +so difficult that escape is almost beyond the question. + +The wires should be so stiff as to preclude the possibility of them +being bent by struggles of the imprisoned creature in his +[Page 111] +efforts to escape, and to insure further strength it is advisable +to connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of finer +wire, twisted about each. + +The simultaneous capture of two rabbits in a trap of this kind is +a common occurrence. + + +THE DEAD-FALL. + +In strolling through the woods and on the banks of streams in the +country, it is not an uncommon thing to stumble against a contrivance +resembling in general appearance our next illustration. Throughout +New England, the "dead-fall," as this is called, has always been +a most popular favorite among trappers, young and old; and there +is really no better rough and ready trap for large game. To entrap +a fox by any device is no easy matter; but the writer remembers +one case where Reynard was outwitted, and the heavy log of the +"dead-fall" put a speedy end to his existence. The trap was set in +a locality where the fox had made himself a nuisance by repeated +nocturnal invasions among the poultry, and the bait was cleverly +calculated to decoy him. A live duck was tied within the pen, and +the morsel proved too tempting for him to resist. Thrusting his +head beneath the suspended log, in order to reach his prey, he thus +threw down the slender framework of support; and the log, falling +across his neck, put him to death. + +[Illustration] + +Our illustration gives a very correct idea of the general construction +of the "dead-fall," although differing slightly in its mode of +setting from that usually employed. + +[Page 112] +A pen of rough sticks is first constructed, having an open front. +A log about seven or eight feet in length, and five or six inches +in diameter, should then be procured. An ordinary fence rail will +answer the purpose very well, although the log is preferable. Its +large end should be laid across the front of the pen, and two stout +sticks driven into the ground outside of it, leaving room for it +to rise and fall easily between them and the pen, a second shorter +log being placed on the ground beneath it, as described for the +bear-trap, page (17). A look at our illustration fully explains +the _setting_ of the parts. A forked twig, about a foot in length, +answers for the bait-stick. The lower end should be pointed, and +the fork, with its bait, should incline toward the ground, when +set. The upper end should be supplied with a notch, square side +down, and directly above the branch which holds the bait. Another +straight stick, about fourteen inches in length, should then be +cut. Make it quite flat on each end. A small thin stone, chip of +wood, or the like, is the only remaining article required. Now +proceed to raise the log, as shown in the drawing, place one end +of the straight stick beneath it, resting its tip on the flat top +of the upright stick on the outside of the log. The baitstick should +now be placed in position inside the inclosure, resting the pointed +end on the chip, and securing the notch above, as seen in the +illustration, beneath the tip of the flat stick. When this is done, +the trap is set, but, there are a few little hints in regard to +setting it finely,--that is, surely,--which will be necessary. +It is very important to avoid bringing too much of the weight of +the log on the flat stick, as this would of course bear heavily on +the bait-stick, and render considerable force necessary to spring +the trap. The leverage at the point where the log rests on the flat +stick should be very slight, and the log should be so placed that +the upright shall sustain nearly all the weight. By this method, +very little pressure is brought to bear on the bait-stick, and a +very slight twitch will throw it out of poise. The fork of the +bait-stick should point to the side of the inclosure, as, in this +case, when the bait is seized by the unlucky intruder, the very +turning of the fork forces the notch from beneath the horizontal +stick, and throws the parts asunder. + +If the trap is set for muskrats, minks, skunks, or animals of similar +size, the weight of the log will generally be found sufficient to +effect their death; but, if desired, a heavy stone +[Page 113] +may be rested against it, or the raised end weighted with other +logs (see p. 18), to make sure. When set for a coon or fox, this +precaution is necessary. To guard against the cunning which some +animals possess, it is frequently necessary to cover the top of the +pen with cross-sticks, as there are numerous cases on record where +the intended victims have climbed over the side of the inclosure, and +taken the bait from the inside, thus keeping clear of the suspended +log, and springing the trap without harm to themselves. A few sticks +or branches laid across the top of the inclosure will prevent any +such capers; and the crafty animals will either have to take the +bait at the risk of their lives, or leave it alone. + +For trapping the muskrat, the bait may consist of carrots, turnips, +apples, and the like. For the mink, a bird's head, or the head +of a fowl, is the customary bait; and the skunk may usually be +taken with sweet apples, meats, or some portion of a dead fowl. + +In the case of the fox, which we have mentioned, the setting of the +trap was somewhat varied; and in case our readers might desire to +try a similar experiment, we will devote a few lines to a description +of it. In this instance, the flat stick which supported the log was +not more than eight inches in length; and instead of the bait-stick, +a slight framework of slender branches was substituted. This frame or +lattice-work was just large enough to fill the opening of the pen, +and its upper end supported the flat stick. The duck was fastened +to the back part of the pen, which was also closed over the top. +The quacking of the fowl attracted the fox; and as he thrust his +head through the lattice to reach his prey, the frame was thrown +out of balance and Reynard paid the price of his greed and folly. + +There is another mode of adjusting the pieces of the dead-fall, +commonly employed by professional trappers, whereby the trap is sprung +by the foot of the animal in quest of the bait. This construction +is shown correctly in the accompanying cut, which gives the front +view, the pen being made as before. The stout crotch represented +at (_a_) is rested on the summit of a strong peg, driven into the +ground beneath the _outside edge_ of the suspended log; (_b_) is +the treacherous stick which seals the doom of any animal that dares +rest his foot upon it. This piece should be long enough to stretch +across and overlap the guard-pegs at each side of the opening. To +set the trap, rest the short crotch of (_a_) on the top of the +peg, and lower the log upon it, keeping the leverage slight, as +directed in our last example, letting much of the weight come on the +[Page 114] +top of the peg. The long arm of the crotch should be pressed inward +from the front, and one end of the stick (_b_) should then be caught +between its extreme tip, and the upright peg about ten inches above +the ground. By now fastening the bait to a peg at the back part of +the pen, the affair is in working order, and will be found perfectly +reliable. The ground log (_d_) being rested in place as seen in +the illustration. To make assurance doubly sure, it is well to cut +a slight notch in the upright stick at (_c_) for the reception of +the foot-piece (_b_). By this precaution the stick, when lowered, +is bound to sink at the right end, thus ensuring success. + +[Illustration] + +The Figure-Four Trap, already described in another part of this +book, is also well adapted to the dead-fall, and is much used. +It should be made of stout pieces and erected at the opening of +the pen, with the bait pointing toward the interior, the heavy +log being poised on its summit. + + +THE GARROTE. + +There is another variety of trap, somewhat resembling the dead-fall, +but which seizes its prey in a little different manner. +[Page 115] +This trap, which we will call the _Garrote_, is truly represented +by our illustration. A pen is first constructed, similar to that of +the dead-fall. At the opening of the pen, two arches are fastened +in the ground. They should be about an inch apart. A stout forked +stick should then be cut, and firmly fixed in the earth at the +side of the arches, and about three feet distant. + +[Illustration] + +Our main illustration gives the general appearance of the trap, +but we also subjoin an additional cut, showing the "setting" or +arrangement of the pieces. They are three in number, and consist: +First, of a notched peg, which is driven into the ground at the back +part of the pen, and a little to one side. Second, of a forked twig, +the branch of which should point downward with the bait attached to +its end. The third stick being the little hooked piece catching +beneath the arches. The first of these is too simple to need +description. The second should be about eight inches long; a notch +should be cut in each end. The upper one being on the side from +which the branch projects, and the other on the _opposite_ side +of the stick, and at the other end, as is made plain by our +illustration. The third stick may consist merely of a hooked crotch +of some twig, as this is always to be found. Indeed, nearly _all_ +the parts of this trap may be found in any woods; and, with the +exception of a jack-knife, bait, and string, the trapper need not +trouble himself to carry any materials whatever. When the three +pieces are thus made the trap only awaits the "Garrote." This should +be made from a stiff pole, about six feet in length, having a heavy +stone tied to its large end, and a loop of the shape of the letter +U, or a slipping noose, made of stout cord or wire, fastened +[Page 116] +at the smaller end. To arrange the pieces for their destructive +work, the pole should be bent down so that the loop shall fall +between the arches. The "crotch stick" should then be hooked beneath +the front of the arch, letting its arm point inward. After this +the bait stick should be placed in its position, with the bait +pointing downward, letting one end catch beneath the notch in the +ground-peg, and the other over the tip of the crotch stick. This +done, and the trap is set. + +[Illustration] + +Like the dead-fall, the bait stick should point toward the side +of the pen, as the turning involved in pulling it toward the front +is positively _sure_ to slip it loose from its catches. Be careful +to see that the loop is nicely arranged between the arches, and that +the top of the pen is covered with a few twigs. If these directions +are carefully followed, and if the young trapper has selected a +good trapping ground, it will not be a matter of many days before +he will discover the upper portion of the arches occupied by some +rabbit, muskrat, or other unlucky creature, either standing on its +hind legs, or lifted clean off the ground. Coons are frequently +secured by this trap, although, as a general thing, they don't +show much enthusiasm over traps of any kind, and seem to prefer +to get their food elsewhere, rather than take it off the end of +a bait stick. + + +THE BOW TRAP. + +This most excellent and unique machine is an invention of the author's, +and possesses great advantages, both on account of its durability +and of the speedy death which it inflicts. + +[Illustration] + +Procure a board about two feet in length, by five or six in width, +and commencing at about nine inches from one end, cut a hole four +or more inches square. This may readily be done with a narrow saw, +by first boring a series of gimlet holes in which to insert it. +There will now be nine inches of board on one side of the hole +and eleven on the other. The shorter end constituting the top of +the trap. On the upper edge of the hole +[Page 117] +a row of stout tin teeth should be firmly tacked, as seen in the +illustration. On the other side of the cavity, and three inches +from it a small auger hole (the size of a lead pencil), should +be bored. After which it should be sand-papered and polished on +the interior, by rubbing with some smooth, hard tool, inserted +inside. A round plug of wood should next be prepared. Let it be +about half an inch in length, being afterwards bevelled nearly +the whole length of one side, as shown at (_b_), leaving a little +over an eighth of an inch of the wood unwhittled. This little piece +of wood is the most important part, of the trap, and should be made +very carefully. The remaining end of the board below the auger +hole should now be whittled off to a point, in order that it may be +driven into the ground. The next requisites consist of two pieces +of wood, which are seen at the sides of the square hole, in our +illustration, and also seen at (_c_), side view. These +[Page 118] +pieces should be about six inches in length and about an inch square. +A thin piece being cut off from one side of each, to the distance +of four inches, and ending in a square notch. The other end should +be rounded off, as is also there plainly indicated. Before adjusting +the pieces in place, two tin catches should be fastened to the +board, one on each side of the hole. This catch is shown at (_d_), +and consists merely of a piece of tin, half an inch in width, and +three-quarters of an inch in length, tacked to the wood, and having +its end raised, as indicated. Its object is to hold the bow-string +from being pulled down after once passing it. The upper edge of +these catch-pieces should be about an inch and a half from the top +of the hole, and, if desired, two or three of them may be arranged +one above the other, so that wherever the string may stop against +the neck of the inmate it will be sure to hold. The catches being +in place, proceed to adjust the pieces of wood, letting the notch +be on a line with the top of the pole, or a little above it. Each +piece should be fastened with two screws to make secure. + +We will now give our attention to the bait stick. This should be +about six inches in length, and square, as our illustration shows. +There are two ways of attaching the bait-stick to the board, both +shown at (_e_) and (_f_). The former consists merely of a screw +eye inserted into the end of the stick, afterwards hinged to the +board by a wire staple. The point for the hinge, in this case, +should be about an inch below the auger hole. In the other method +(_f_), the bait stick should be a half inch longer, and the spot +for the hinge a quarter inch lower. At about a quarter of an inch +from the square end of the bait stick a small hole should be made +by the use of a hot wire. An oblong mortice should next be cut +in the board, so as to receive this end of the stick easily. A +stout bit of wire should then be inserted in the little hole in +the stick, and laying this across the centre of the mortice, it +should be thus secured by two staples, as the drawing shows. This +forms a very neat and simple hinge. To determine the place for +the catch, insert the flat end of the little plug fairly into the +auger-hole above the hinge. Draw up the bait stick, and at the +point where it comes in contact with the point of the plug, cut +a square notch, as shown in (_b_). Everything now awaits the bow. +This should be of hickory or other stout wood; it is well to have +it seasoned, although a stout sapling will answer the purpose very +well. It should be fastened to the top of the board by two heavy +staples, or nails driven on each side of it. The string should +be _heavy_ Indian twine. Our +[Page 119] +illustration shows the trap, as it appears when ready for business. +The plug is inserted, as already described, with the bevelled face +downward, and square end in the hole. Draw down the bow-string and +pass it beneath the plug, at the same time catching the tip of +the latter in the notch of the bait stick. If properly constructed +the string will thus rest on the slight uncut portion of the under +side of the peg, and the trap is thus set. If the bait is pushed +when approached, the notch is forced off from the plug, and the +string flies up with a _twang!_ securing the neck of its victim, +and producing almost instant death. If the bait is _pulled_, the +bait stick thus forces the plug into the hole in the board, and +thus slides the cord on to the bevel, which immediately releases +it, and the bow is sprung. So that no matter whether the bait is +pushed or drawn towards the front, the trap is equally sure to +spring. + +In setting this curious machine, it is only necessary to insert +it into the ground, and surround the bait with a slight pen, in +order that it may not be approached from behind. By now laying a +stone or a pile of sticks in front of the affair, so that the bait +may be more readily reached, the thing is ready. Care is required +in setting to arrange the pieces delicately. The plug should be +_very slightly_ inserted into the auger hole, and the notch in +the bait stick should be as small as possible, and hold. All this +is made clear in our illustration (_b_). + +By observing these little niceties the trap becomes very sure and +sensitive. + +Bait with small apple, nub of corn, or the like. + + +THE MOLE TRAP. + +If there is anyone subject upon which the ingenuity of the farmers +has been taxed, it is on the invention of a mole trap which would +effectually clear their premises of these blind burrowing vermin. +Many patented devices of this character are on the market, and +many odd pictured ideas on the subject have gone the rounds of +the illustrated press, but they all sink into insignificance when +tested beside the trap we here present. It has no equal among mole +traps, and it can be made with the utmost ease and without cost. +The principle on which it works is the same as the Fish Trap on +page 120. + +Construct a hollow wooden tube about five inches in diameter, and +eight inches in length. A section of a small tree, neatly excavated +with a large auger is just the thing. Through +[Page 120] +the centre of one of the sides a small hole the size of a lead +pencil should be bored, this being the upper side. About half an +inch distant from each end a smaller hole should be made for the +passage of the noose. The spring should consist either of a stout +steel rod, whalebone or stiff sapling, a foot or more in length, +inserted downward through holes in the side of the tube after the +manner of the Fish Trap already alluded to. No bait is required. +A simple stick the size of the central hole at one end, and an +inch in width at the other being sufficient. The trap is set as +described in the other instances, and as the introduction of the +spindle-stick is sometimes attended with difficulty owing to its +position inside the trap, the bottom of the latter is sometimes +cut away for two or three inches to facilitate the operation. The +trap is then to be imbedded within the burrow of the mole. Find +a fresh tunnel and carefully remove the sod above it. Insert the +trap and replace the turf. The first mole that starts on his rounds +through that burrow is a sure prisoner, no matter from which side +he may approach. + +Immense numbers of these troublesome vermin have been taken in a +single season by a dozen such traps, and they possess great advantages +over all other mole traps on account of their simplicity and unfailing +success. + + +A FISH TRAP. + +Our list of traps would be incomplete without a Fish Trap, and +although we have mentioned some contrivances in this line under +our article on "Fishing" we here present one which is both new +and novel. + +[Illustration] + +Its mode of construction is exactly similar to the Double Box Snare, +page (57). A section of stove-pipe one foot in length should first +be obtained. Through the iron at a point equidistant from the ends, +a hole should be made with some smooth, sharp pointed instrument, +the latter being forced _outward_ from the _inside_ of the pipe, +thus causing the ragged edge of the hole to appear on the outside, +as seen in our illustration. The diameter of the aperture +[Page 121] +should be about that of a lead pencil. Considering this as the _upper +side_ of the pipe, proceed to pierce two more hole's _downward_ +through the side of the circumference, for the admission of a stout +stick or steel rod. This is fully explained in our illustration. The +further arrangement of bait stick and nooses is exactly identical +with that described on page (57). It may be set for suckers, pickerel, +and fish of like size, the bait stick being inserted with sufficient +firmness to withstand the attacks of smaller fish. The bait should +be firmly tied to the stick, or the latter supplied with two hooks +at the end on which it should be firmly impaled. To set the trap, +select a locality abounding in fish. Place a stone inside the bottom +of the pipe, insert the bait stick and arrange the nooses. + +By now quietly grasping the curve of the switch the trap may be +easily lowered to the bottom. The bait soon attracts a multitude +of small fishes; these in turn attract the pickerel to the spot, +and before many minutes the trap is sprung and may be raised from +the water with its prisoner. This odd device is an invention of +the author's, and it is as successful as it is unique. + +[Illustration: Maternal advice.] + + + + +[Page 123] +[Illustration: HOUSEHOLD TRAPS] + + +[Page 125] +BOOK V. + +HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. + +[Illustration: F]or the most effectual domestic trap on record +see our page title to this section. There are several others also +which have done good service in many households, and for the sake +of pestered housekeepers generally, we devote a corner of our volume +for their especial benefit. + +Foremost in the list of domestic pests the rat stands pre-eminent, +and his proverbial shrewdness and cunning render his capture often +a very difficult, if not an impossible task. We subjoin, however, +a few hints and suggestions of practical value, together with some +perfected ideas in the shape of traps, by which the average rat +may be easily outwitted and led to his destruction. + +First on the list is + + +THE BARREL TRAP. + +This most ingenious device possesses great advantages in its +capabilities of securing an almost unlimited number of the vermin +in quick succession. It also takes care of itself, requires no +re-baiting or setting after once put in working order, and is sure +death to its prisoners. + +A water-tight barrel is the first thing required. Into this pour +water to the depth of a foot. Next dampen a piece of very thick +paper, and stretch it over the top of the barrel, tying it securely +below the upper hoops. When the paper dries it will become thoroughly +flat and tightened. Its surface should then be strewn with bits +of cheese, etc., and the barrel so placed +[Page 126] +that the rats may jump upon it from some neighboring surface. As +soon as the bait is gone, a fresh supply should be spread on the +paper and the same operation repeated for several days, until the +rats get accustomed to visit the place for their regular rations, +fearlessly and without suspicion. This is "half the battle," and +the capture of the greedy victims of misplaced confidence is now +an easy matter. The bait should again be spread as before and a +few pieces of the cheese should be attached to the paper with gum. +It is a good plan to smear parts of the paper with gum arabic, +sprinkling the bait upon it. When dry, cut a cross in the middle +of the paper, as seen in the illustration, and leave the barrel +to take care of itself and the rats. The first one comes along, +spies the tempting morsels, and with his accustomed confidence, +jumps upon the paper. He suddenly finds himself in the water at +the bottom of the barrel, and the paper above has closed and is +ready to practice its deception on the next comer. There is not +long to wait. A second victim soon tumbles in to keep company with +the first. A third and a fourth soon follow, and a dozen or more +[Page 127] +are sometimes thus entrapped in a very short space of time. It is a +most excellent and simple trap, and if properly managed, will most +effectually curtail the number of rats in any pestered neighborhood. + +[Illustration] + +By some, it is considered an improvement to place in the bottom +of the barrel a large stone, which shall project above the water +sufficiently to offer a foothold for one rat. The first victim, +of course, takes possession of this retreat and on the precipitate +arrival of the second a contest ensues for its occupancy. The hubbub +which follows is said to attract all the rats in the neighborhood +to the spot, and many are thus captured. + +We can hardly recommend the addition of the stone as being an +improvement. The rat is a most notoriously shrewd and cunning animal, +and the despairing cries of his comrades must rather tend to excite +his caution and suspicion. By the first method the drowning is soon +accomplished and the rat utters no sound whereby to attract and +warn his fellows. This contrivance has been thoroughly tested and +has proved its efficacy in many households by completely ridding +the premises of the vermin. + +Another excellent form of Barrel Trap is that embodying the principle +described in page (131). A circular platform should be first constructed +and hinged in the opening of the barrel This may be done by driving +a couple of small nails through the sides of the barrel into a +couple of staples inserted near the opposite edges of the platform. +The latter should be delicately weighted, as described on the above +mentioned page, and previously to setting, should be baited in a +stationary position for several days to gain the confidence of +the rats. The bait should at last be secured to the platform with +gum, and the bottom of the barrel of course filled with water, as +already described. This trap possesses the same advantages as the +foregoing. It is _self-setting_, and unfailing in its action. + +Another method consists in half-filling the barrel with oats, and +allowing the rats to enjoy their repast there for several days. +When thus attracted to the spot, remove the oats, and pour the same +bulk of water into the barrel, sprinkling the surface thickly with +the grain. The delusion is almost perfect, as will be effectually +proven when the first rat visits the spot for his accustomed free +lunch. Down he goes with a splash, is soon drowned, and sinks to +the bottom. The next shares the same fate, and several more are +likely to be added to the list of misguided victims. + +[Page 128] +Many of the devices described throughout this work may be adapted +for domestic use to good purpose. The box-trap page 103, box-snare, +page 55, figure-four, page 107, are all suitable for the capture +of the rat; also, the examples given on pages 106, 109, 110, and +129. + +The steel-trap is often used, but should always be concealed from +view. It is a good plan to set it in a pan covered with meal, and +placed in the haunts of the rats. The trap may also be set at the +mouth of the rats' hole, and covered with a piece of dark-colored +cloth or paper. The runways between boxes, boards, and the like +offer excellent situations for the trap, which should be covered, +as before directed. + +Without one precaution, however, the trap may be set in vain. Much +of the so-called shrewdness of the rat is nothing more than an +instinctive caution, through the acute sense of smell which the +animal possesses; and a trap which has secured one victim will +seldom extend its list, unless all traces of its first occupant +are thoroughly eradicated. This may be accomplished by smoking +the trap over burning paper, hens' feathers or chips, taking care +to avoid a heat so extreme as to affect the temper of the steel +springs. All rat-traps should be treated the same way, in order to +insure success, and the position and localities of setting should +be frequently changed. + + +THE BOX DEAD-FALL. + +[Illustration] + +This trap is an old invention, simplified by the author, and for +the capture of rats and mice will prove very effectual. It consists +of a box, constructed of four slabs of 3-4 inch boarding, and open +at both ends. The two side boards should be 10 x 18 inches; top +and bottom boards, 6 x 18 inches. For the centre of the latter, +a square piece should be removed by the aid of the saw. The width +of this piece should be four inches, and the length eight inches. +Before nailing the boards together, the holes thus left in the +bottom board should be supplied with a treadle platform, working +on central side pivots. The board for this treadle should be much +thinner and lighter than the rest of the trap, and should fit loosely +in place, its surface being slightly below the level of the bottom +board. This is shown in the interior of the trap. The pivots should +be inserted in the exact centre of the sides, through holes made +in the edge of the bottom board. These holes may be bored with +a gimlet or burned with a red-hot wire. The pivots may +[Page 129] +consist of stout brass or iron wire; and the end of one should +be flattened with the hammer, as seen in (_a_). This pivot should +project an inch from the wood, and should be _firmly_ inserted +in the treadle-piece. The platform being thus arranged, proceed +to fasten the boards together, as shown in the illustration, the +top and bottom boards overlapping the others. We will now give +our attention to the stick shown at (_b_). This should be whittled +from a piece of hard wood, its length being three inches, and its +upper end pointed as seen. The lower end should be pierced with a +crevice, which should then be forced over the flattened extremity +of the point (_a_) as shown at (_c_), pointed end uppermost. The +weight (_a_) is next in order. This should consist of a heavy oak +plank two inches in thickness, and of such other dimensions as will +allow it to fit loosely in the box, and fall from top to bottom +therein without catching between two sides. A stout staple should +be driven in the centre of its upper face, and from this a stout +string should be passed upward through a hole in the centre of +the box. We are now ready for the spindle (_e_). This should be +about three inches in length, and bluntly pointed +[Page 130] +at each end, a notch being made to secure it at a point five inches +above the pivot (_c_). To set the trap, raise the weight, as seen +in the illustration; draw down the string to the point (_e_), and +attach it to the spindle one-half an inch from its upper end, which +should then be inserted in the notch, the lower end being caught +against the extremity of the pivot stick. The parts are now adjusted, +and even in the present state the trap is almost sure to spring at +the slightest touch on the treadle-piece. An additional precaution +is advisable, however. Two small wooden pegs (_f_) should be driven, +one on each side of the spindle, thus preventing any side-movement +of the latter. It will now be readily seen that the slightest weight +on either end of the treadle-piece within the trap must tilt it +to one side, thus throwing the pivot-piece from its bearing on +the spindle; and the latter being released, lets fall the weight +with crushing effect upon the back of its hapless victim. + +The trap is very effective, and is easily constructed. The bait +should be rested in the centre of the treadle platform. Built on +a larger scale, this device may be successfully adapted to the +capture of the mink, martien, and many other varieties of game. + + +THE BOARD-FLAP. + +[Illustration] + +[Page 131] +For the capture of mice this is both a simple and effective contrivance, +and it may be enlarged so as to be of good service for larger animals. +Procure two boards, one foot square and one inch thick, and secure +them together by two hinges, as in the illustration. Assuming one +as the upper board, proceed to bore a gimlet hole three inches +from the hinges. This is for the reception of the bait stick, and +should be cut away on the inside, as seen in the section (_a_), +thus allowing a free play for the stick. Directly beneath this +aperture, and in the lower board, a large auger hole should be made. +A stout bit of iron wire, ten inches in length, is now required. +This should be inserted perpendicularly in the further end of the +lower slab, being bent into a curve which shall slide easily through +a gimlet hole in the edge of the upper board. This portion is very +important, and should be carefully constructed. The bait stick +should be not more than three inches in length, supplied with a +notch in its upper end, and secured in the aperture in the board by +the aid of a pivot and staples, as is clearly shown in our drawing. +The spindle is next in order. It should consist of a light piece +of pine eight and a half inches in length, and brought to an edge +at each end. A tack should now be driven at the further edge of +the upper board on a line with the aperture through which the wire +passes. Our illustration represents the trap as it appears when +set. The upper band is raised to the full limit of the wire. One +end of the spindle is now adjusted beneath the head of the tack, +and the other in the notch in the bait stick. The wire thus supports +the suspended board by sustaining the spindle, which is held in +equilibrium. A slight touch on the bait stick soon destroys this +equilibrium: a flap ensues, and a dead mouse is the result. The +object of the auger hole in the lower board consists in affording a +receptacle for the bait when the boards come together, as otherwise +it would defeat its object, by offering an obstruction to the fall +of the board, and thus allow its little mouse to escape. + +It is, therefore, an essential part of the trap, and should be carefully +tested before being finally set. + + +THE BOX PIT-FALL. + +We now come to a variety of trap which differs in its construction +from any previously described. It secures its victims alive, and +without harm, and, when well made, is very successful. +[Page 132] +It may be set for squirrels, chipmunks, rats, mice, and the like, +and on a large scale for muskrats and mink. + +[Illustration] + +The trap is very easily made, and is represented in section in +our illustration, showing the height and interior of the box. For +ordinary purposes the box should be about twelve or fourteen inches +square, with a depth of about eighteen inches. A platform consisting +of a piece of tin should then be procured. This should be just +large enough to fit nicely to the outline of the interior of the +box without catching. On two opposite sides of this piece of tin, +and at the middle of each of those sides, a small strip of the +same material should be wired, or soldered in the form of a loop, +as shown in the separate diagram at (_b_). These loops should be +only large enough to admit the end of a shingle-nail. A scratch +should now be made across the tin from loop to loop, and on the +centre of this scratch another and larger strip of tin should be +fastened in a similar manner as shown in our diagram, at (_a_), +this being for the balance weight. The +[Page 133] +latter may consist of a small stone, piece of lead, or the like, +and should be suspended by means of a wire bent around it, and +secured in a hole in the tin by a bend or knot in the other extremity. +Further explanations are almost superfluous, as our main illustration +fully explains itself. + +[Illustration] + +After the weight is attached, the platform should be secured in +its place, about five inches from the top of the box. To accomplish +this and form the hinges, two shingle-nails should be driven through +the side of the box into the tin loops prepared for them. To do +this nicely requires some considerable accuracy and care, and it +should be so done that the platform will swing with perfect freedom +and ease, the weight below bringing it to a horizontal poise after +a few vibrations. Care should be taken that the weight is not too +heavy, as, in such a case, the platform will not be sensitive on its +balance, and, consequently, would not work so quickly and surely. +The weight should be _just heavy enough_ to restore the platform +to its perfect poise, and no more. This can be easily regulated +by experiment. The bait should then be strewn on both sides of the +platform, when the trap is set, and the luckless animal, jumping +after the bait, feels his footing give way, and suddenly finds +himself in the bottom of a dark box, from which it is impossible +for him to escape except by gnawing his way out. To prevent this, +the interior of the box may be lined with tin. + +By _fastening_ the bait--a small lump or piece--on each side of +the tin, the trap will continually reset itself, and, in this way, +two or three individuals may be taken, one after the other. Muskrats +are frequently caught in this trap, it being generally buried in +the ground so that its top is on a level with the surface. In this +case it is necessary to arrange the platform lower down in the +box, and the latter should be of much larger dimensions than the +one we have described. + +[Page 134] +For ordinary purposes the box should either be set in the ground or +placed near some neighboring object which will afford easy access +to it. No less than a dozen rats have been caught in a trap of +this kind in a single night. + + +CAGE TRAP. + +[Illustration] + +The common cage trap is well known to most of our readers, and for +the capture of rats and mice, it is one of the most efficacious +devices in existence. The construction of one of these traps is +quite a difficult operation, and we would hesitate before advising +our inventive reader to exercise his patience and ingenuity in the +manufacture of an article which can be bought for such a small +price, and which, after all, is only a mouse trap. If it were a +device for the capture of the _mink_ or _otter_, it might then be +well worth the trouble, and would be likely to repay the time and +labor expended upon it. We imagine that few would care to exercise +their skill over a trap of such complicated structure, while our +pages are filled with other simpler and equally effective examples. + +For the benefit, however, of such as are of an inventive turn of +mind, we subjoin an illustration of the trap to serve as a guide. +The principle upon which it works is very simple. The bait is +[Page 135] +strewn inside the cage, and the rats or mice find their only access +to it through the hole at the top. The wires here converge at the +bottom, and are pointed at the ends. The passage downwards is an +easy matter, but to _escape_ through the same opening is impossible, +as the pointed ends of the wires effectually prevent the ascent. +It is a notable fact, however, that the efforts to escape through +this opening are very seldom made. The mode of entering seems to +be absolutely forgotten by the captive animals, and they rush +frantically about the cage, prying between all the wires in their +wild endeavors, never seeming to notice the central opening by which +they entered. This is easily explained by the fact that the open +grating admits the light from all sides, and the enclosed victims +are thus attracted to no one spot in particular, and naturally rush +to the extreme edges of the trap, in the hope of finding an exit. + +If a thick cloth be placed over the cage, leaving the opening at +the top uncovered, the confined creatures are soon attracted by +the light, and lose no time in rushing towards it, where their +endeavors to ascend are effectually checked by the pointed wires. +Profiting by this experiment, the author once improvised a simple +trap on the same principle, which proved very effectual. We will +call it + + +THE JAR TRAP. + +In place of the wire cage, a glass preserve-jar was substituted. +A few bits of cheese were then dropped inside, and the top of a +funnel inserted into the opening above. This completed the trap, +and it was set on the floor near the flour barrel. On the following +morning the jar was occupied by a little mouse, and each successive +night for a week added one to the list of victims. A stiff piece +of tin, bent into the required shape, may be substituted for the +funnel top, or even a very heavy piece of pasteboard might answer. + + +BOWL TRAPS. + +Very effective extempore traps may be set up in a few minutes by +the use of a few bowls. There are two methods commonly employed. +One consists of the bowl and a knife-blade. An ordinary tableknife +is used and a piece of cheese is firmly forced on to the end of +the blade, the bowl is then balanced on the edge, allowing the +bait to project about an inch and a half beneath the bowl. The odor +of cheese will attract a mouse almost anywhere, and he soon finds +[Page 136] +his way to the tempting morsel in this case. A very slight nibble +is sufficient to tilt the blade and the bowl falls over its prisoner. + +In the second method a thimble is used in place of the knife. The +cheese is forced into its interior, and the open end of the thimble +inserted far beneath the bowl, allowing about half its length to +project outward. + +The mouse is thus obliged to pass under the bowl in order to reach +the bait, and in his efforts to grasp the morsel, the thimble is +dislodged and the captive secured beneath the vessel. Where a small +thimble is used, it becomes necessary to place a bit of pasteboard +or flat chip beneath it, in order to raise it sufficiently to afford +an easy passage for the mouse. Both of these devices are said to +work excellently. + + +FLY PAPER. + +A sheet of common paper, smeared with a mixture composed of molasses +one part, and bird-lime six parts (see page 97), will be found to +attract large numbers of flies and hold them prisoners upon its +surface. + +Spruce gum, warmed on the fire, and mixed with a little linseed +oil, is also excellent. For a genuine fly trap, the following stands +unrivalled. + + +FLY TRAP. + +Take a tumbler, and half-fill it with strong soap suds. Cut a circle +of stiff paper which will exactly fit into the top of the glass. +In the centre of the paper cut a hole half an inch in diameter, +or, better still, a slice of bread may be placed on the glass. +Smear one side of the disc with molasses, and insert it in the +tumbler with this side downward. Swarms of flies soon surround +it, and one by one find their way downward through the hole. Once +below the paper, and their doom is sealed. For a short time the +molasses absorbs their attention, and they, in turn, absorb the +molasses. + +In their efforts to escape, they one by one precipitate themselves +in the soap suds below, where they speedily perish. The tumbler +is soon half-filled with the dead insects, and where a number of +the traps are set in a single room, the apartment is soon ridden +of the pests. + + + + +[Illustration: STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.] + + + + +[Page 137] +BOOK VI. + +STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. + +[Illustration: P]assing from our full and extended illustrated list +of extempore, or "rough and ready" examples of the trap kind, we +will now turn our attention to the consideration of that well-known +implement, the trade _steel_ trap. Although the foregoing varieties +often serve to good purpose, the Steel Trap is the principal device +used by professional trappers, and possesses great advantages over +all other traps. It is portable, sets easily and quickly, either on +land or beneath the water; can be concealed with ease; secures its +victims without injury to their fur, and by the application of the +spring or sliding pole (hereafter described) will most effectually +prevent the captive from making his escape by self-amputation, besides +placing him beyond the reach of destruction by other animals. + +The author has known trappers who have plied their vocation largely +by the aid of the various hand made traps, described in the earlier +pages of this book, and with good success. But in the regular _business_ +of systematic trapping, their extensive use is not common. The +experience of modern trappers generally, warrants the assertion +that for practical utility, from every point of view, the steel +trap stands unrivalled. + +These traps are made of all sizes, from that suitable for the capture +of the house rat, to the immense and wieldy machine adapted to the +grizzly, and known as the "bear tamer." + +They may be bought at almost any hardware shop, although a large +portion of the traps ordinarily sold are defective. They should +be selected with care, and the springs always tested +[Page 138] +before purchase. Besides the temper of the spring, there are also +other necessary qualities in a steel trap, which we subjoin in +order that the amateur may know how to judge and select his weapons +judiciously. + +[Illustration] + + +REQUISITES OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP. + +1. _The jaws should not be too thin nor sharp cornered_. In the +cheaper class of steel traps the jaws approach to the thinness +of sheet-iron, and the result is that the thin edges often sever +the leg of their would-be captive in a single stroke. At other +times the leg is so deeply cut as to easily enable the animal to +gnaw or twist it off. This is the common mode of escape, with many +animals. + +2. _The pan should not be too large_. This is a very common fault +with many steel traps and often defeats its very object. Where the +pan is small, the foot of the animal in pressing it, will be directly +in the centre of the snap of the jaw, and he is thus firmly secured +far up on the leg. On the other hand, a large pan nearly filling +the space between the jaws as the trap is set, may be sprung by a +touch on its extreme edge, and the animal's toe is thus likely to +get slightly pinched, if indeed the paw is not thrown off altogether +by the forcible snap of the jaw. + +3. _The springs should be strong, scientifically tempered, and +proportioned_. The strength of a perfectly tempered spring will +always remain the same, whether in winter or summer, never losing +its elasticity. The best of tempering, however, is useless in a +spring badly formed or clumsily tapered. + +4. The jaws should be so curved as to give the bow of the spring +a proper sweep to work upon. The jaws should lie _flat_ when open, +and should always work easily on their hinges. + +5. Every trap should be furnished with a strong chain with ring and +swivel attached, and in every case the swivel should turn easily. + +The celebrated "Newhouse Trap" embodies all the above requisites, +and has deservedly won a reputation for excellence second to no +other in this or any other country. + +They are made in eight sizes, as follows: + +[Illustration: No. 0.] + +This is the smallest size and is known as the RAT TRAP. It has a +single spring, and the jaws spread three and a half inches when +set. + +[Page 139] +[Illustration] + +[Page 141] +[Illustration: No. 1.] + +This size is called the MUSKRAT TRAP, and the jaws spread four +inches. It is especially designed for the capture of the mink, marten, +and animals of similar size. + +[Illustration: No. 2.] + +This is known in the trade as the MINK TRAP, and the jaws spread +nearly five inches. It is adapted for the fox, raccoon, or fisher. + +[Illustration: No. 2-1/2.] + +This size is called the FOX TRAP. The spread of the jaws is the +same as in the foregoing, but the trap is provided with two springs, +and consequently has double the power. It is strong enough for +the otter, and is generally used for the capture of the fox and +fisher. + +[Illustration: No. 3.] + +No.3 goes by the name of the OTTER TRAP. The jaws spread five and +a half inches, and the powerful double springs do excellent service +in the capture of the beaver, fox, badger, opossum, wild cat, and +animals of like size. + +[Illustration: No. 4.] + +Commonly called the BEAVER TRAP. Jaws spread six and a half inches. +This size is especially adapted to the wolf, lynx or wolverine. It +may also be set for deer, and extra sets of jaws are made expressly +for this purpose, being easily inserted in the place of the ordinary +jaws, when desired. + +[Page 142] +[Illustration: No. 6.] + +This is known as the "GREAT BEAR TAMER," and is a most formidable +weapon. The jaws spread sixteen inches, and the weight of the machine +is forty-two pounds. It is extensively used in the capture of the +moose and grizzly bear, and is the largest and most powerful steel +trap made in this or any other country. The springs possess most +tremendous power, and require to be set by a lever, as the weight +of an ordinary man has not the slightest effect upon them. This +lever may be easily applied, as follows: Have at hand four stout +straps, supplied with buckles. These should always be carried by +the trapper, where the larger double-spring traps are used. To +adjust the lever, cut four heavy sticks about three feet long. +Take two of them and secure their ends together, side by side, +with one of the straps. Now insert the spring of the trap between +them, near the strap. Bear down heavily on the other extremity of +the lever, and the spring will be found to yield easily, after +which the remaining ends of the levers should be secured by a second +strap. The other spring should now be treated in the same way, +after which the jaws should be spread and the pan adjusted. The +removal of the straps and levers is now an easy matter, after which +[Page 143] +the trap is set. The stoutest spring is easily made to yield by such +treatment. + +[Illustration: No. 5.] + +The SMALL BEAR TRAP. The jaws of this size spread nearly a foot, +and the weight of the trap is seventeen pounds. It is used in the +capture of the black bear, puma, and animals of similar size. + +All of the foregoing are supplied with swivels and chains. + + +HINTS ON BAITING THE STEEL TRAP. + +[Illustration] + +There is a very common and erroneous idea current among amateur +sportsmen and others in regard to the baiting of the steel trap; +viz., that the pan of the trap is intended for the _bait_. This +was the old custom in the traps of bygone times, but no modern +trap is intended to be so misused, and would indeed often defeat +its object in such a case, wherein it will be easily +[Page 144] +seen. The object of the professional trapper is the acquisition +of furs; and a prime fur skin should be without break or bruise, +from nose to tail. A trap set as above described, would of course +catch its victim by the head or neck, and the fur would he more +or less injured at the very spot where it should be particularly +free from blemish. + +The true object of the steel trap is, that it shall take the animal +by the _leg_, thus injuring the skin only in a part where it is +totally valueless. + +We give, then, this imperative rule--_Never bait a steel trap on +the pan_. + +The pan is intended for the _foot_ of the game, and in order to +insure capture by this means, the bait should be so placed as that +the attention of the animal will be _drawn away_ from the trap; +the latter being in such a position as will cause the victim to +_step in it_ when reaching for the tempting allurement. + +There are several ways of doing this, one of which we here illustrate. + +A pen of stakes, in the shape of the letter V, is first constructed. +The trap is then set in the angle, and the bait attached to the +end stake directly over it. Another method is shown in the picture +on our title-page to this section, the bait being suspended on a +stick above the trap. There are various other methods on the same +principle, which will be described hereafter, under the titles of +the various game. + + +THE SPRING POLE. + +[Illustration] + +This is nearly always used in connection with the steel trap, in +the capture of the smaller land animals. It not only lifts the +creature into the air, and thus prevents its becoming a prey to +other animals, but it also guards against the escape of the victim +by the amputation of its own leg. This is a very common mode of +release with many kinds of game--notably the mink, marten, and +muskrat; and for the successful trapping of these, as well as many +other animals, the spring and sliding pole are absolute necessities. +It is a simple contrivance, consisting merely of a pole inserted +in the ground near the trap. The pole is then bent down, and the +trap chain secured to its end. A small, notched peg is next driven +into the ground and the top of the pole caught in it, and thus +held in a bent position. When the animal is caught, its struggles +release the pole, and the latter, flying up with a jerk, +[Page 145] +lifts the trap and its occupant high in the air, out of the reach +of marauders, and beyond the power of escape by self-amputation. +Even in the capture of large game the spring pole often serves to +good purpose. The struggles of a heavy animal are often so violent +as to break a stout trap or chain; and the force of the spring +pole, although not sufficient to raise the animal from its feet, +often succeeds in easing the strain, and often thus saves a trap +from being broken to pieces. The power of the pole must of course +be proportionate to the weight of the desired game. + + + +THE SLIDING POLE. + +[Illustration] + +The first impulse with almost every aquatic animal when caught in +a trap, is to plunge headlong into deep water. With the smaller +animals, such as the mink and muskrat, this is all that is desired by +the trapper, as the weight of the trap with the chain is sufficient +to drown its victim. But with larger animals, the beaver and otter +for instance, an additional precaution, in the shape of the "sliding +pole," is necessary. This consists of a pole about ten feet long, +smoothly trimmed of its branches, excepting at the tip, where a +few stubs should be left. Insert this end obliquely into the bed +of the stream, where the water is +[Page 146] +deep, and secure the large end to the bank by means of a hooked +stick, as seen in our illustration. The ring of the chain should +be large enough to slide easily down the entire length of the pole. +When the trap is set, the ring should be slipped on the large end +of the pole, and held in place by resting a stick against it. The +animal, when caught, plunges off into deep water, and guided by +the pole, is led to the bottom of the river. The ring slides down +to the bed of the stream, and there holds its victim until drowned. + + +THE CLOG. + +A trap which is set for heavy game should never be secured to a +stake. Many of the larger and more powerful animals when caught +in a trap thus secured, are apt either to pull or twist their legs +off, or break both trap and chain to pieces. To guard against this, +the chain should be weighted with a pole or small log, of a size +proportionate to the dimensions of the game, its weight being merely +sufficient to offer a serious incumbrance to the animal, without +positively checking its movements. This impediment is called the +"clog," and is usually attached to the ring of the trap chain by +its larger end, the ring being slipped over the latter, and secured +in place by a wedge. A look at our frontispiece will give a clear +idea of both clog and attachment. + + +[Page 147] +THE GRAPPLING IRON. + +[Illustration] + +This answers the same purpose as the above, and is often used instead. +It is manufactured in connection with the larger steel traps, and +is attached to the chain by a swivel joint. Its general shape is +shown in an engraving, and it offers a serious resistance to the +victim, who endeavors to run away with it. + + +THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING. + +The business of trapping for profit must be confined to the season +between the first of October and the beginning of May, as furs +of all kinds are worthless when taken during the other months of +the year. The reason of this is obvious. A "_prime fur_" must be +"_thick_" and "_full_," and as all our fur-bearing animals shed +their heavy winter coats as warm weather approaches, it necessarily +follows that the capture at this season would be unprofitable. As +the autumn approaches the new growth appears, and the fur becomes +thick and glossy. By the middle of October most furs are in their +prime, but the heart of winter is the best time for general trapping. +[Page 148] +The furs of the mink, muskrat, fisher, marten and beaver are not in +their perfect prime until this season. And _all_ other furs are +_sure_ to be in good condition at this time. + + +THE ART OF TRAPPING. + +From time immemorial, and in every nation of the world, the art +of trapping has been more or less practised. By some as a means +of supplying their wants in the shape of daily food, and by others +for the purpose of merchandise or profit. + +To be a clever and successful trapper, much more is required than +is generally supposed. The mere fact of a person's being able to +set a trap cleverly and judiciously forms but a small part of his +proficiency; and unless he enters deeper into the subject and learns +something of the nature and habits of the animals he intends to +catch, his traps will be set in vain, or at best meet with but +indifferent success. The study of natural history here becomes +a matter of necessity as well as pleasure and profit. And unless +the trapper thoroughly acquaints himself with the habits of his +various game, the sagacity and cunning of his intended victim will +often outwit his most shrewd endeavors, much to his chagrin. The +sense of smell, so largely developed in many animals, becomes one +of the trappers most serious obstacles, and seems at times to amount +almost to positive _reason_, so perfectly do the creatures baffle +the most ingenious attempts of man in his efforts to capture them. +A little insight into the ways of these artful animals, however, +and a little experience with their odd tricks soon enables one +to cope with them successfully and overcome their whims. For the +benefit of the amateur who has not had the opportunity of studying +for himself, the peculiarities of the various game, the author +appends a comprehensive chapter on "Practical Natural History," +in which will be found full accounts of the peculiar habits and +leading characteristics of all the various animals commonly sought +by the trapper, together with detailed directions for trapping +each variety, supplemented with a faithful portrait of the animal +in nearly every instance. A careful reading of the above mentioned +chapter will do much towards acquainting the novice with the ways +of the sly creatures, which he hopes to victimize, and will thus +prepare him to contend with them successfully. + +In the art of trapping the bait is often entirely dispensed with, +the traps being set and carefully concealed in the _runways_ of +the various animals. These by-paths are easily detected by an +[Page 149] +experienced trapper, and are indicated either by footprints or +other evidences of the animal, together with the matted leaves and +broken twigs and grasses. + +Natural channels, such as hollow logs or crevices between rocks +or fallen trees, offer excellent situations for steel traps, and a +good trapper is always on the _qui vive_ for such chance advantages, +thus often saving much of the time and labor which would otherwise +be spent in the building of artificial enclosures, etc. + +The most effective baits used in the art of trapping are those +which are used to attract the animal through its sense of smell, as +distinct from that of its mere appetite for food. These baits are +known in the profession as "medicine," or scent baits and possess +the most remarkable power of attracting the various animals from +great distances, and leading them almost irresistibly to any desired +spot. Such is the barks tone or castoreum, of such value in the +capture of the beaver, and the oil of anise, so commonly used for +the trapping of animals in general. These various substances will +presently be considered under their proper heading. + +Many detailed and specific directions on the subject of trapping +will be found in the long chapter following; and, in closing our +preliminary remarks, we would add just one more word of general +caution, which the young trapper should always bear in mind. + +In all cases avoid handling the trap with the bare hand. Many an +amateur has set and _reset_ his traps in vain, and retired from the +field of trapping in disgust, from the mere want of observing this +rule. Animals of keen scent are quick in detecting the slightest +odors, and that left by the touch of a human hand often suffices to +drive the creature away from a trap which, under other circumstances, +would have been its certain destruction. To be sure the various +scent baits already alluded to, will in a measure overcome human +traces, but not always effectually, and in order to insure success no +precautions so simple should be neglected. A pair of clean buckskin +gloves are valuable requisites to the trapper, and should always +be "on hand" when setting or transporting traps. + + +"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS. + +These form one of the most important requisites of the trapper's +art. A trap baited simply with the food of the +[Page 150] +required animal, may and often will be successful, but with the +addition of the trapper's "medicine" judicially applied, success +is almost a certainty. These scent baits are of various kinds, +some being almost universal in their usefulness, while others are +attractive only to some particular species of animal. We give a +few of the recipes of the most valued preparations used by trappers +throughout the land. The application and use of each is fully described +in its proper place hereafter. + + +CASTOREUM. + +This substance, commonly known as "_Barkstone_," by trappers and +fur dealers, is obtained from the beaver, and is a remarkable aid in +the capture of that animal. It is an acrid secretion of a powerful +musky odor, found in two glands beneath the root of the tail of +the beaver. These glands are about two inches in length. They are +cut out and the contents are squeezed into a small bottle. When +fresh the substance is of a yellowish-red color, changing to a +light-brown when dried. Both male and female animals yield the +castoreum, but that of the male is generally considered the best. +Castoreum is a commercial drug, and in many beaver countries it +is quite an article of trade. There are other sacs lying directly +behind the castor glands which contain a strong oil of rancid smell. +This should not be confounded with the Castoreum. + + +CASTOREUM COMPOSITION. + +The Barkstone is used both pure and in combination with other +substances, the following prescription being much used: Into the +contents of about ten of the castor bags, mix two ground nutmegs, +thirty or forty cloves, also powdered, one drop essence of peppermint, +and about two thimblefuls of ground cinnamon. Into this stir as +much whisky as will give the whole the consistency of paste, after +which the preparation should be bottled and kept carefully corked. +At the expiration of a few days the odor increases ten-fold in power +and is ready for use. A bottle, if thus prepared, will retain its +strength for nearly a half year, provided it is kept closely corked. +A few drops of either the pure castoreum or the combination spread +upon the bait or in the neighborhood of the trap, as described +under the chapter on the Beaver, will entice that animal from a +great distance. + + +[Page 151] +MUSK. + +This substance is a secretion obtained from several different animals, +notably the otter and muskrat. The glands which contain it are +located similarly to the castor glands of the beaver, and the musk +should be discharged into a vial, as previously described. The +musk of the female muskrat is said to be the most powerful, and +is chiefly used by trappers in the capture of that animal, the +otter being chiefly attracted by its own musk. + + +ASSAFOETIDA. + +This foul smelling production seems to have a specially attractive +fragrance to many animals, and for general use is much esteemed by +trappers. It is a vegetable drug from Persia and the East Indies, +and is imported in the form of concrete juice, of a brown color. + + +OIL OF RHODIUM. + +This is a vegetable oil obtained from a species of rose, and is +quite costly. Its power of attracting animals is surprising, and +it is in very common use among trappers. + + +FISH OIL. + +This is especially useful in the capture of the majority of the +fur tribe, and particularly the water animals. + +The oil may be bought ready for use, or prepared with little trouble. +The common method consists in cutting up fish of any kind, especially +eels, into small bits, putting them in a bottle, and setting the +latter in the full exposure to the sun. It should thus be left +for about two weeks, at the end of which time a rancid oil will +have formed. A few drops of this oil will entice many animals from +surprising distances, often drawing their attention to a bait which +otherwise they might never have scented. + + +OIL OF SKUNK. + +This, the _ne plus ultra_, or quintessence of diabolical stench, +yields the tempting savor which irresistibly attracts many animals +to their final doom. It is contained in a pouch beneath the insertion +of the tail of the animal, and is spread abroad by the +[Page 152] +creature with lavish extravagance when circumstances demand, or we +might say when occasion permits. It may be taken from the animal +and bottled as already described in other instances, chloride of +lime being used to eradicate the stench from the hands. + + +OIL OF AMBER. + +This substance is frequently referred to in the following pages, +and is a vegetable product of the amber gum of commerce. The Oil +of Ambergris is also sometimes used by trappers, and is likewise +known as Amber Oil. The two are thus often confounded, although +the former is supposed to be most generally used. + + +OIL OF ANISE. + +This is strongly recommended by many trappers as a most excellent +"universal medicine." It is a vegetable product, and is obtainable +at any drug store. + +SWEET FENNEL. + +This plant is commonly cultivated all over the United States, and +the seeds are often powdered and used as a scent bait. The Oil of +Fennel is preferable, however, and may be had at almost any drug +store. + + +CUMMIN. + +This is another plant, somewhat resembling the former, and, like +it, cultivated for its seeds. It has an aromatic taste, and its +strong pungent odor renders it of great value to the trapper. The +seeds may be powdered and thus used, or the oil of the plant may +be easily procured. The latter is preferable. + + +FENUGREEK. + +Like the two foregoing this plant is valuable for its seeds, which +are used for medicinal purposes. The oil or bruised seeds may be +used. + + +LAVENDER. + +This is another aromatic plant, the oil of which, either pure or +diluted with alcohol, is much used in the trapper's art. + + +[Page 153] +COMPOUND. + +For ordinary use, a mixture of Assafoetida, Musk, Oil of Anise, +and Fish Oil, together with a few drops of the Oil of Rhodium, is +especially recommended by our most skilled trappers. This preparation +contains the various substances which are known to attract the +different fur bearing animals, and its use often insures success +where anyone of the simple substances would be ineffectual. + + +THE TRAIL. + +The object of the "trail" consists in offering a leading scent +which, when followed, will bring the animal to the various traps, +and when properly made will be the means of drawing large numbers +of game from all quarters and from great distances, whereas without +it the traps might remain undiscovered. + +Trails are sometimes made to connect a line of traps, as when set +along the banks of streams for mink, etc., at other times, as in +trapping the fox, for instance, they should extend from the trap on +all sides, like the spokes of a wheel from the hub, thus covering +considerable area, and rendering success more certain than it would +be without this precaution. + +The combination "medicine" just described is excellent for the +purposes of a trail for minks, otter, muskrat, and many other animals. + +Soak a piece of meat, or piece of wood in the preparation, and +drag it along the ground between the traps. A dead fish smeared +with the fluid will also answer the same purpose. The soles of +the boots may also be smeared with the "medicine" and the trail +thus accomplished. Trails of various kinds are considered under +their respective and appropriate heads in the chapters on animals, +all of which will be found useful and effective. + + +HOW TO TRAP. + +In the following pages will be found full and ample directions +for the trapping of all our leading game, together with detailed +descriptions of peculiar habits of each species. The various articles +contain careful descriptions, whereby the species may be readily +recognized, and, in nearly every case, are accompanied by faithful +illustrations. We add also valuable directions for the best manner of +removing the skin of each animal, this being a matter of considerable +importance, as affecting their pecuniary value. + + +[Page 154] +THE FOX. + +Foremost in the list of animals noted for their sly craft, and +the hero of a host of fables and well-authenticated stories, in +which artful cunning gains the advantage over human intelligence, +Reynard, the fox, reigns supreme. There is scarcely a professional +trapper in the land who has not, in his day, been hoodwinked by the +wily strategy of this sly creature, whose extreme cunning renders +him the most difficult of all animals to trap. The fox belongs to +the Dog family, and there are six varieties inhabiting the United +States. The red species is the most common and is too well known +to need a description here. The Cross Fox considerably resembles +the above, only being much darker in color, the red hair being +thickly speckled with black. This species varies considerably in +color in different individuals, often much resembling the red variety, +and again approaching nearer in color to the Black or Silver Fox. +This variation, together with the name of the animal, has given +rise among trappers to the wide-spread belief of the animal being +a cross between the two species which it so nearly resembles. It +seems to be a permanent variety, however, the term cross being +applied, we believe, on account of a dark marking on the back, +between the shoulders of the animal, suggestive of that title. +The Silver or Black Fox is the most beautiful and most rare of the +genus, and yields the most valuable fur produced in this country. +Its color is black, with the exception of the tip of the tail, +which is white. The Prairie Fox is the largest of the species. It +inhabits the Western Prairies, and in color resembles the common +red variety, only being a trifle yellower. + +The Kit, or Swift Fox, is smaller than the Red, and abounds in the +Western States. + +The Gray Fox is a Southern variety, and is very beautiful. It is +less daring and cunning than the Common Fox, and seldom approaches +a farm-yard, where it is in close proximity to a dwelling. + +The general habits and characteristics of all the foxes are similar. +For natural cunning they take the lead of all other animals. They +are all built for speed, and their senses of smell and hearing +are acutely developed. Their food consists of wild fowl of all +kinds, rabbits, squirrels, birds and their eggs, together with +many kinds of ripe fruits, "sour grapes" not included. They live +in burrows, often usurped, or crevices between rocks; and their +[Page 155] +young, from three to nine in number, are brought forth in March. + +We are strongly tempted to narrate a few remarkable instances of +the animal's cunning, but we forbear for want of space. Our reader +must take it for granted that when he attempts to trap a fox, he +will be likely to find more than his match in the superior craftiness +of that animal. If the trap is overturned and the bait gone, or if +repeatedly sprung and found empty, he must not he surprised or +discouraged, for he is experiencing only what all other trappers +have experienced before him. There are instances on record where +this knowing creature has sprung the trap by dropping a stick upon +the pan, afterwards removing the suspended bait to enjoy it at +his leisure. His movements are as lithe and subtile as those of +a snake, and when "cornered" there is no telling what caper that +cunning instinct and subtlety of body will not lead him to perform. +When pursued by hounds he has been known to lead them a long chase +at full speed up to the crest of a hill: here he leaps a shrub, +swiftly as an arrow, and landing on the ground on the opposite +declivity quickly returns beneath the brushwood and crouches down +closely upon the ground. Presently the hounds come along in full +cry, and blazing scent they dart over the shrub in full pursuit, +dash down the hillside, never stopping until at the bottom of the +hill they find they are off the trail. As soon as the hounds are +passed, sly Reynard cautiously takes to his legs: creeping adroitly +back over the brow of the hill, he runs for a considerable distance +on his back trail, and at last, after taking a series of long jumps +therefrom returns to his covert at leisure. Page after page might +be filled to the glory of this creature's cunning, but enough has +been said to give the young trapper an insight into the character +of the animal he hopes to victimize, and prepare him for a trial +of skill which, without this knowledge, would be a most one-sided +affair. + +We would not advise our young amateur to calculate very confidently +on securing a fox at the first attempt, but we can truthfully vouch +that if the creature can be _caught at all_, it can be done by +following the directions we now give. + +One of the most essential things in the trapping of this, as well +as nearly all animals, is that the trap should be _perfectly clean +and free from rust_. The steel trap No.2, page 141 is the best +for animals of the size of the Fox. The trap should be washed in +weak lye, being afterwards well greased and finally smoked over +burning hen's feathers. + +[Page 156] +All this and even more precaution is necessary. No matter how strongly +scented the trap may be, with the smoke, or other substances, a +mere touch of the bare hand will leave a _human scent_ which the +fox perceives as soon as the other, and this is enough to deaden +his enthusiasm over the most tempting bait. + +On this account, it is necessary always to handle the trap with +buckskin gloves, never allowing the bare hand to come in contact +with it, on any account, after once prepared for setting. + +Before arranging the trap for its work, it is necessary to construct +what is called a "bed." There are several methods of doing this; +but from all we can learn from the most experienced trappers, the +following is the most successful. The bed should be made on flat +ground, using any of the following substances: Buckwheat chaff, +which is the best, oat, wheat, or hay chaff, or in lieu of these, +moss or wood ashes. Let the bed be three feet in diameter, and an +inch and a half in depth. To insure success it is the best plan +to bait the bed itself for several days with scraps of beef or +cheese strewn upon, and near it. If the fox once visits the place, +discovers the tempting morsels and enjoys a good meal unmolested, +he will be sure to revisit the spot so long as he finds a "free +lunch" awaiting him. When he is found to come regularly and take +the bait, he is as good as caught, provided our instructions are +carefully followed. Take the trap, previously prepared as already +described, chain it securely to a small log of wood about two feet +long. Dig a hole in the earth in the centre of the bed, large enough +to receive the trap, with its log, and chain. Set the traps, supporting +the pan by pushing some of the chaff beneath it. Now lay a piece +of paper over the pan and sprinkle the chaff over it evenly and +smoothly, until every trace of the trap and its appendages is +obliterated. Endeavor to make the bed look as it has previously +done, and bait it with the same materials. Avoid treading much +about the bed and step in the same tracks as far as possible. Touch +nothing with the naked hands. Cover up all the footprints as much +as possible, and leave the trap to take care of itself and any +intruder. If our directions have been accurately followed, and due +care has been exercised on the part of the young trapper, there +is every probability that the next morning will reward him with +his fox. But if a day or two elapse without success, it is well to +resort to the "scent baits" described on page 149. Take the trap +out of the bed, and with a feather smear it with melted beeswax, +or rub it with a little Oil of Rhodium, Assafoetida, or Musk. Oil +of Amber, and Lavender water are also used for the same +[Page 157] +purpose by many professional trappers. These are not always necessary +but are often used as a last resort, and will most always insure +success. + +Another method of baiting is shown in our page illustration opposite, +and consists in suspending the bait by a stick in such a position +that the fox will be obliged to step upon the trap in order to +reach it. The bed should be baited in this way several times before +the trap is set. This method is very commonly employed. + +Another still, is to bury the dead body of a rabbit or bird in +loose earth, covering the whole with chaff. Sprinkle a few drops +of Musk, or Oil of Amber over the bed. After the fox has taken +the bait, the place should be rebaited and the trap inserted in +the mound and covered with the chaff, being scented as before. + +Some trappers employ the following method with good results: The +trap is set, in a spring or at the edge of a small shallow brook +and attached by a chain to a stake in the bank, the chain being +under water. There should be only about an inch and a half of water +over the trap, and its distance from the shore should be about +a foot and a half, or even less. In order to induce the fox to +place his foot in the trap it is necessary to cut a sod of grass, +just the size of the inside of the jaws of the trap, and place it +over the pan, so that it will project above the water and offer +a tempting foot rest for the animal while he reaches for the bait +which rests in the water just beyond. To accomplish this device +without springing the trap by the weight of the sod, it is necessary +to brace up the pan from beneath with a small perpendicular stick, +sufficiently to neutralize the pressure from above. The bait may +be a dead rabbit or bird thrown on the water outside of the trap +and about a foot from it, being secured by a string and peg. If +the fox spies the bait he will be almost sure to step upon the +sod to reach it, and thus get caught. + +If none of these methods are successful, the young trapper may at +least content himself with the idea that the particular fox he is +after is an _old fellow_ and is "not to be caught with chaff" or +any thing else,--for if these devices will not secure him _nothing_ +will. If he is a young and comparatively unsophisticated specimen, +he will fall an easy victim to any of the foregoing stratagems. + +Although steel traps are generally used in the capture of foxes, +a cleverly constructed and baited dead-fall such as is described +on page 113 will often do capital service in that direction. By +[Page 158] +arranging and baiting the trap as therein described, even a fox +is _likely to become_ its prey. + +To skin the fox the pelt should be first ripped down each hind +leg to the vent. The skin being cut loose around this point, the +bone of the tail should next be removed. This may be done by holding +a split stick tightly over the bone after which the latter may be +easily pulled out of the skin. + +The hide should then be drawn back, and carefully removed, working +with caution around the legs, and particularly so about the eyes, +ears, and lips when these points are reached. The skin should be +stretched as described on page 273. + + +THE WOLF. + +The United States are blessed with several species of this animal. +The Grey Wolf, which is the largest, and the smaller, Prairie Wolf +or Coyote, being the most commonly known. There are also the White +Wolf, Black Wolf and the Texan or Red Wolf. In outward form they +all bear a considerable resemblance to each other, and their habits +are generally similar in the different varieties. + +Wolves are fierce and dangerous animals, and are very powerful of +limb and fleet of foot. They are extremely cowardly in character, +and will seldom attack man or animal except when by their greater +numbers they would be sure of victory. Wolves are found in almost +every quarter of the globe. Mountain and plain, field, jungle and +prairie are alike infested with them, and they hunt in united bands, +feeding upon almost any animal which by their combined attacks +they can overpower. + +Their inroads upon herds and sheep folds are sometimes horrifying, +and a single wolf has been known to kill as many as forty sheep +in a single night, seemingly from mere blood-thirsty desire. + +In the early colonization of America, wolves ran wild over the +country in immense numbers, and were a source of great danger; +but now, owing to wide-spread civilization, they have disappeared +from the more settled localities and are chiefly found in Western +wilds and prairie lands. + +The Grey Wolf is the largest and most formidable representative of +the Dog tribe on this continent. Its general appearance is truthfully +given in our drawing. Its length, exclusive of the tail, is about +four feet, the length of the tail being about a foot and a half. +Its color varies from yellowish grey to almost +[Page 159] +white in the northern countries, in which latitude the animal is +sometimes found of an enormous size, measuring nearly seven feet in +length. The fur is coarse and shaggy about the neck and haunches, +and the tail is bushy. They abound in the region east of the Rocky +Mountains and northward, and travel in packs of hundreds in search +of prey. Bisons, wild horses, deer and even bears fall victims +to their united fierceness, and human beings, too, often fall a +prey to their ferocious attacks. + +[Illustration] + +The Coyote, or Common Prairie Wolf, also known as the Burrowing +Wolf, as its name implies inhabits the Western plains and prairies. +They are much smaller than the Grey Wolf, and not so dangerous. They +travel in bands and unitedly attack whatever animal they desire +to kill. Their homes are made in burrows which they excavate in the +ground. The Texan Wolf inhabits the latitude of Texas and southward. +It is of a tawny red color and nearly as large as the grey species, +possessing the same savage nature. + +In April or May the female wolf retires to her burrow or den, and +her young, from six to ten in number, are brought forth. + +The wolf is almost as sly and cunning as the fox, and the same +caution is required in trapping the animal. They are extremely keen +scented, and the mere touch of a human hand on the trap is often +enough to preclude the possibility of capture. A mere footprint, +or the scent of tobacco juice, they look upon with great suspicion, +[Page 160] +and the presence of either will often prevent success. + +The same directions given in regard to trapping the fox are equally +adapted for the wolf. The trap (size No, 4, page 141) should be +smoked or smeared with beeswax or blood, and set in a bed of ashes +or other material as therein described, covering with moss, chaff, +leaves or some other light substance. The clog should be fully +twice as heavy as that used for the fox. Some trappers rub the +traps with "brake leaves," sweet fern, or even skunk's cabbage. +Gloves should always be worn in handling the traps, and all tracks +should be obliterated as much as if a fox were the object sought +to be secured. + +A common way of securing the wolf consists in setting the trap +in a spring or puddle of water, throwing the dead body of some +large animal in the water beyond the trap in such a position that +the wolf will be obliged to tread upon the trap, in order to reach +the bait. This method is described both under the head of the Fox +and the Bear. + +Another plan is to fasten the bait between two trees which are +very close together, setting a trap on each side and carefully +concealing them as already directed, and securing each to a clog +of about twenty pounds in weight. The enclosure described on page +144 is also successful. + +There are various scent or trail baits used in trapping the wolf. +Oil of Assafoetida is by many trappers considered the best, but +Oil of Rhodium, powdered fennel, fenugreek and Cummin Oil are also +much used. It is well to smear a little of the first mentioned oil +near the traps, using any one of the other substances, or indeed a +mixture of them all, for the trail. This may be made by smearing the +preparation on the sole of the boots and walking in the direction +of the traps, or by dragging from one trap to another a piece of +meat scented with the substance, as described under the head of +Mink. + +The wolf is an adept at feigning death, playing "'possum" with a +skill which would do credit to that veritable animal itself. + +A large dead-fall, constructed of logs, page 17, when skilfully +scented and baited, will often allure a wolf into its clutches, +and a very strong twitch-up, with a noose formed of heavy wire, or +a strip of stout calf hide, will successfully capture the crafty +creature. + +In skinning the wolf the hide may be removed either by, first ripping +up the belly, or in a circular piece, as described connection with +the fox, both methods being much used. The board and hoop stretchers +[Page 161] +used in preparing the skin are described on pages 273 and 275. + + +THE PUMA. + +The puma, commonly known also as the panther or cougar, is the +largest American representative of the Cat tribe, and for this +reason is often dignified by the name of the "American Lion." It +is found more or less abundantly throughout the United States; +and although not generally considered a dangerous foe to mankind, +it has often been known in the wild districts to steal upon the +traveller unawares, and in many instances human beings have fallen +a prey to the powerful claws and teeth of this powerful animal. + +The life of the puma is mostly in the trees. Crouching upon the +branches it watches for, or steals, cat-like, upon its prey. Should +a solitary animal pass within reach, the puma will not hesitate in +pouncing upon the unfortunate creature; but if a herd of animals, +or party of men, should be travelling together, the caution of +the brute asserts itself, and he will often dog their footsteps +for a great distance, in hopes of securing a straggler. Birds are +struck down by a single blow of the puma's ready paw, and so quick +are his movements that even though a bird has risen on the wing, +he can often make one of his wonderful bounds, and with a light, +quick stroke, arrest the winged prey before it has time to soar +beyond reach. The puma is a good angler. Sitting by the water's +edge he watches for his victims, and no sooner does an unfortunate +fish swim within reach, than the nimble paw is outstretched, and +it is swept out of the water on dry land, and eagerly devoured. + +A puma has been known to follow the track of travellers for days +together, only daring to show itself at rare intervals, and never +endeavoring to make an attack except through stealth. The animal +will often approach cautiously upon a traveller until sufficiently +near to make its fatal spring; but if the pursued party suddenly turn +round and face the crawling creature, the beast becomes discomfited +at once, and will retreat from the gaze which seems to it a positive +terror. So long as a puma can be kept in sight, no danger need be +feared from the animal but it will improve every opportunity of +springing unobservedly upon a heedless passer by. The total length +of the puma is six feet and a half, of which the tail occupies a +little over two feet. Its color is of a uniform light tawny tint, +fading into light grey on the under parts, and the tip of the tail +[Page 162] +is black. The puma is one of the few members of the Cat tribe, which +are without the usual spots or stripes so observable in the tiger and +leopard. The lion has the same uniformity of color, and it is perhaps +partly on that account that the panther is so often known as the +American lion. In infancy the young pumas possess decided tiger-like +markings, and leopard-like spots, but these disappear altogether as +the animal increases in size. The cougar has learned by experience a +wholesome fear of man, and as civilization has extended throughout +our country, the animals have been forced to retire from the neighborhood +of human habitations and hide themselves in thick, uncultivated forest +lands. + +[Illustration] + +Sometimes, however, the animal, urged by fierce hunger, will venture +on a marauding expedition for several miles, and although not an +object of personal dread to the inhabitants, he often becomes a +pestilent neighbor to the farmer, committing great ravages among +his flocks and herds, and making sad havoc in his poultry yard. +It is not the fortune of every puma, however, to reside in the +neighborhood of such easy prey as pigs, sheep and poultry, and the +greater number of these animals are forced to depend for their +[Page 163] +subsistence on their own success in chasing or surprising the various +animals on which they feed. + +When a puma is treed by hunters, it is said to show great skill +in selecting a spot wherein it shall be best concealed from the +gazers below, and will even draw the neighboring branches about +its body to hide itself from the aim of the hunter's rifle. While +thus lying upon the branches the beast is almost invisible from +below, as its fur, when seen, harmonizes so well with the the bark +which covers the boughs, that the one can scarcely be distinguished +from the other. + +The puma loves to hide in the branches of trees, and from this +eminence to launch itself upon the doomed animal that may pass within +its reach. It may, therefore, be easily imagined how treacherous a +foe the creature may be when ranging at will among the countless +trees and jungles of our American forests. + +Although so stealthy and sly a creature the cougar possesses very +little cunning and is easily trapped. The Gun trap, page 20, is +commonly and successfully employed in South America in the capture +of the jaguar, as our title illustration, page 15, represents, and +it may also be used with the same success in trapping the puma. +The Bow trap, page 23, and the dead-fall described in the early part +of the book, will all be found to work admirably in the destruction +of this treacherous beast. + +The animal may be entrapped alive, should any of our young trappers +dare to try the experiment. + +There are two ways of accomplishing this. The first is by the aid +of a huge coop of logs, as described on page 30 or 33, and the other +by the Pit-fall, as exemplified on page 31. Huge twitch-ups may +also be constructed, using very strong wire. The bait may consist +of a fowl, sheep's head, or the heart of any animal. Fresh meat of +any kind will answer the purpose, and in the case of the Pit-fall +a live fowl is preferable to a dead one as it will attract the +puma by its motions, or by its cackling, and thus induce him to +_spring_ upon his prey, which will precipitate him to the bottom +of the pit and thus effect his capture. + +They are commonly taken with the steel trap. The puma seldom leaves +the vicinity of the carcass of an animal it has killed until it is +all devoured. When such a carcass can be found the capture of the +beast is easily effected. Set the trap, size No. 5, page 143, near +the remains, and cover the carcass with leaves. The next visit of +the animal will find him _more attached_ to the place than ever,--so +much so that he will be unable to "_tear himself away_." + +[Page 164] +The skin of the puma is properly removed by first cutting up the +belly as described under the Beaver, using great care about the +head and face. Use the hoop stretcher, page 275. + + +THE CANADIAN LYNX. + +The lynx represents another of the Cat tribe, and as its name implies +is a native of the regions north of the United States, although +sometimes found in upper Maine and on the lower borders of the +great lakes. It is commonly known throughout Canada as the Peshoo, +or "Le Chat." + +Our illustration is a truthful representation of the animal. Its +total length exceeds three feet, and its tail is a mere stub. The +fur is thick, and the hairs are long, the general color being grey, +sprinkled with black. The legs are generally darker than the body, +and the ears are often edged with white. The limbs and muscles +are very powerful, the paws are very large for the size of the +animal, and are furnished with strong white claws, which are imbedded +in the fur of the feet when not in use, they are shown in our +illustration. The ears of the lynx form a distinct feature, by +which the animal could be easily identified; they are long and +tipped with stiff projecting hairs, giving the creature a very odd +appearance. + +The peshoo can not be said to be a very dangerous animal, unless +it is attacked, when it becomes a most ferocious antagonist. The +writer knew of a gentleman who was pounced upon and very nearly +killed by one of these infuriated creatures, and there are many +like instances on record. + +The principal food of the lynx consists of the smaller quadrupeds, +the American hare being its favorite article of diet. It is a good +swimmer, and a most agile climber, chasing its prey among the branches +with great stealth and dexterity. Like the wolf, fox, and many +other flesh eating-animals, the lynx does not content itself with +the creatures which fall by the stroke of its own talons, or the +grip of its own teeth, but will follow the trail of the puma, in +its nocturnal quest after prey, and thankfully partake of the feast +which remains after its predecessor has satisfied its appetite. + +[Illustration] + +While running at full speed, the lynx presents a most ludicrous +appearance, owing to its peculiar manner of leaping. It progresses +in successive bounds, with its back slightly arched, and all the +feet striking the ground nearly at the same instant. Powerful as +the animal is, it is easily killed by a blow on the +[Page 165] +back, a slight stick being a sufficient weapon wherewith to destroy +the creature. For this reason the "Dead-fall" is particularly adapted +for its capture, and is very successful, as the animal possesses +very little cunning, and will enter an enclosure of any kind without +the slightest compunction, when a tempting bait is in view. The +dead-fall should of course be constructed on a large scale, and +it is a good plan to have the enclosure deep, and the bait as far +back as will necessitate the animal being well under the suspended +log in order to reach it. The bait may consist of a dead quadruped +or of fresh meat of any kind. + +The Gun trap, page 20, and the Bow trap, page 23, will also be +found efficient, and a very powerful twitch-up, constructed from a +stout pole and extra strong wire will also serve to good purpose. +The lynx is not so prolific as many of the feline tribe, the number +of its young seldom exceeding two, and this only once a year. The +fur of the animal is valuable for the purposes to which the feline +skin is generally adapted, and commands a fair price in the market. +Those who hunt or trap the lynx will do well to choose the winter +months for the time of their operations, as during the cold season +the animal possesses a thicker and warmer fur than it offers in +the summer months. + +When the steel trap is used, it should be of size No. 4, page +[Page 166] +141, set at the opening of a pen of stakes, the bait being placed +at the back of the enclosure in such a position, as that the animal +will be obliged to step upon the pan of the trap in order to reach +it. Any of the devices described under "Hints on Baiting" will +be found successful. + +The skin of the animal may be removed as directed in the case of +the fox, being drawn off the body whole, or it may be removed after +the manner of the beaver, and similarly stretched. + + +THE WILD CAT. + +This animal is one of the most wide-spread species of the Cat tribe, +being found not only in America, but throughout nearly the whole +of Europe as well as in Northern Asia. In many parts of the United +States, where the wild cat was wont to flourish, it has become +exterminated, owing to civilization and the destruction of forest +lands. + +Many naturalists are of the opinion that the wild cat is the original +progenitor of our domestic cat, but there is much difference of opinion +in regard to the subject. Although they bear great resemblance to +each other, there are several points of distinction between the +two; one of the most decided differences being in the comparative +length of the tails. The tail of the wild cat is little more than +half the length of that of the domestic cat, and much more bushy. + +The color of the wild animal is much more uniform than in the great +raft of "domestic" mongrel specimens which make night hideous with +their discordant yowls, although we sometimes see a high bred individual +which, if his tail was cut off at half its length, might easily +pass as an example of the wild variety. + +The ground tint of the fur in the wild cat is yellowish grey, +diversified with dark streaks over the body and limbs, much after +the appearance of the so-called "tiger cat." A row of dark streaks +and spots extends along the spine, and the tail is thick, short +and bushy, tipped with black and encircled with a number of rings +of a dark hue. In some individuals the markings are less distinct, +and they are sometimes altogether wanting, but in the typical wild +cat they are quite prominent. The fur is rather long and thick, +particularly so during the winter season, and always in the colder +northern regions. + +The amount of havoc which these creatures often occasion is surprising, +and their nocturnal inroads, in poultry yards and +[Page 167] +sheep folds, render them most hated pests to farmers in the countries +where these animals abound. They seem to have a special appetite +for the _heads_ of fowls, and will often decapitate a half dozen +in a single night, leaving the bodies in otherwise good condition +to tell the story of their midnight murders. The home of the wild +cat is made in some cleft of rock, or in the hollow of some aged +tree, from which the creature issues in the dark hours and starts +upon its marauding excursions. Its family numbers from three to +six, and the female parent is smaller than the male, the total +length of the latter being three feet. + +[Illustration] + +Inhabiting the most lonely and inaccessible ranges of rock and +mountain, the wild cat is seldom seen during the daytime. At night, +like its domestic relative, he prowls far and wide, walking with +the same stealthy step and hunting his game in the same tiger-like +manner. He is by no means a difficult animal to trap, being easily +deceived and taking a bait without any hesitation. The wild cat +haunts the shores of lakes and rivers, and it is here that the +traps may be set for them. Having caught and killed one of the +colony, the rest of them can be easily taken if the body of the +dead victim be left near their hunting ground and surrounded with +the traps carefully set and concealed beneath leaves moss or the like. +[Page 168] +Every wild cat that is in the neighborhood will be certain to visit +the body, and if the traps are rightly arranged many will be caught. +The trap No. 3, page 141 is generally used. We would caution the young +trapper in his approach to an entrapped wild cat, as the strength and +ferocity of this animal under such circumstances, or when otherwise +"hard pressed," is perfectly amazing. When caught in a trap they +spring with terrible fury at any one who approaches them, not waiting +to be assailed, and when cornered or hemmed in by a hunter they +will often turn upon their pursuer, and springing at his face will +attack him with most consummate fury, often inflicting serious +and sometimes fatal wounds. When hunted and attacked by dogs, the +wild cat is a most desperate and untiring fighter, and extremely +difficult to kill, for which reason it has been truthfully said +that "if a tame cat has nine lives, a _wild cat_ must have a dozen." + +The twitch-up, erected on a large scale, is utilized to a considerable +extent in England in the capture of these animals; and these, together +with steel traps and dead-falls, are about the only machines used +for their capture. We would suggest the garrote, bow and gun trap +also as being very effective. The bait may consist of the head +of a fowl or a piece of rabbit or fowl flesh: or, indeed, flesh +of almost any kind will answer, particularly of the bird kind. + +In skinning the wild cat the same directions given under the head +of the Fox may be followed, or the pelt may be ripped up the belly +and spread on a hoop stretcher, page 275. + + +THE BEAR. + +There are several species of the Bear tribe which inhabit our continent, +the most prominent of which are the Grizzly, and the Musquaw or +common Black Bear. There is no other animal of this country which +is more widely and deservedly dreaded than the grizzly bear. There +are other creatures, the puma and wild cat, for instance, which +are dangerous when cornered or wounded, but they are not given to +open and deliberate attack upon human beings. The grizzly, however, +or "Ephraim," as he is commonly termed by trappers, often displays +a most unpleasant readiness to attack and pursue a man, even in +the face of fire arms. In many localities, however, where hunting +has been pursued to considerable extent, these animals have learned +from experience a wholesome fear of man, and are not so ready to +assume the offensive, but a "_wounded_" grizzly is one of the +[Page 169] +most horrible antagonists of which it is possible to conceive, +rushing upon its victim with terrible fury, and dealing most tearing +and heavy blows with its huge claws. + +In length this formidable animal often exceeds eight feet, and its +color varies from yellowish to brownish black, and some specimens +are found of a dirty grey color. + +The legs are usually darker than the rest of the body, and the +face is generally of a lighter tint. The fore limbs of the animal +are immensely powerful; and the foot of a full-grown individual +is fully eighteen inches long, and armed with claws five inches +in length. The grizzly inhabits the Rocky Mountain regions and +northward, being found in considerable numbers in the western part +of British America. Its hair is thick and coarse, except in the +young animal, which possesses a beautiful fur. + +All other creatures seem to stand in fear of this formidable beast. +Even the huge bison, or buffalo, of the Western Prairies sometimes +falls a victim to the grizzly bear, and the very imprint of a bear's +foot upon the soil is a warning which not even a hungry wolf will +disregard. + +Its food consists of whatever animal it can seize, whether human +or otherwise. He also devours green corn, nuts, and fruits of all +kinds. In his earlier years he is a good climber, and will ascend +a tree with an agility which is surprisingly inconsistent with +the unwieldy proportions of his body. + +The average weight of a full-grown grizzly is over eight hundred +pounds, and the girth around the body is about eight feet. + +The Black bear, or Musquaw, which we illustrate is common throughout +nearly all the half settled-districts of North America. But as the +fur and fat are articles of great commercial value, the hunters +and trappers have exercised their craft with such skill and +determination that the animals are gradually decreasing in numbers. +The total length of the black bear is seldom more than six feet, +and its fur is smooth and glossy in appearance. The color of the +animal is rightly conveyed by its name, the cheeks only partaking +of a reddish fawn color. + +It possesses little of that fierceness which characterizes the +grizzly, being naturally a very quiet and retiring creature, keeping +itself aloof from mankind, and never venturing near his habitations +except when excited by the pangs of fierce hunger. When pursued +or cornered it becomes a dangerous antagonist; and its furious +rage often results in fearful catastrophes to both man and beast. +Nothing but a rifle ball in the right spot will +[Page 170] +check the creature, when wrought up to this pitch of fury, and an +additional wound only serves to increase its terrible ferocity. +Bear-chasing is an extremely dangerous sport; and there are few +bear-hunters in the land, however skilful, but what can show scars +from the claws or teeth of some exasperated bruin. + +[Illustration] + +The food of the black bear is mostly of a vegetable character, +animal diet not being indulged in unless pressed by hunger. At +such times it seems to especially prefer a young pig as the most +desirable delicacy; and even full-grown hogs, it is said, are sometimes +lifted from their pens and carried off in his deadly embrace. + +Honey is his especial delight; and he will climb trees with great +agility in order to reach a nest of bees, there being few obstacles +which his ready claws and teeth will not remove where that dainty +is in view. He is also very fond of acorns, berries, and fruits +of all kinds. + +The young of the bear are produced in January or February, and +are from one to four in number. They are very small and covered +with grey hair, which coat they retain until they are one year of +age. The flesh of the bear is held in high esteem among hunters, +and when properly prepared is greatly esteemed by epicures. + +The fat of the animal is much used under the title of "Bear +[Page 171] +grease," and is believed to be an infallible hair rejuvenator, and +therefore becomes a valuable article of commerce. + +The bear generally hibernates during the winter, choosing some +comfortable residence which it has prepared in the course of the +summer, or perhaps betaking itself to the hollow of some tree. +Sometimes, in case of early snow, the track of the bears may be +distinguished, and if followed will probably lead to their dens, +in which they can be secured with logs until it is desired to kill +them. + +The black bear has a habit of treading in a beaten track, which +is easily detected by the eye of an experienced hunter or trapper, +and turned to good account in trapping the animal. + +There are various modes of accomplishing this result. The bear +Dead-fall, described on page 17, is, perhaps, the most commonly +used, and the Pit-fall, page 31, and "Giant Coop" trap are also +excellent. The Gun trap and stone dead-fall, page 20, we also +confidently recommend. When a steel trap is used it requires the +largest size, especially made for the purpose. It should be supplied +with a short and very strong chain firmly secured to a very heavy +clog or grappling-iron page 147. If secured to a tree or other +stationary object, the captured animal is likely to gnaw or tear +his foot away, if, indeed, he does not break the trap altogether +by the quick tightening of the chain. The clog should be only heavy +enough to be an _impediment_, and may consist of a log or heavy +stone. The grappling-iron, however, is more often used in connection +with the bear trap. It is a common method in trapping the bear +to construct a pen of upright branches, laying the trap at its +opening, and covering it with leaves. The bait is then placed at +the back in such a position that the animal, on reaching for it, +will be sure to put his foot in the trap. + +An experienced trapper soon discovers natural openings between +rocks or trees, which may be easily modified, and by the addition +of a few logs so improved upon as to answer his purpose as well as +a more elaborate enclosure, with much less trouble. Any arrangement +whereby the bear will be obliged to tread upon the trap in order +to secure the bait, is, of course, all that is required. The bait +may be hung on the edge of a rock five feet from the ground, and +the trap set on a smaller rock beneath it. He will thus be almost +sure to rest his forefoot on the latter rock in order to reach +the bait, and will thus be captured. + +Another way is to set the trap in a spring of water or swampy +[Page 172] +spot. Lay a lump of moss over the pan, suspending the bait beyond +the trap. The moss will offer a natural foot-rest, and the offending +paw will be secured. + +Bears possess but little cunning, and will enter any nook or corner +without the slightest compunction when in quest of food. They are +especially fond of sweets, and, as we have said, are strongly attracted +by honey, being able to scent it from a great distance. On this +account it is always used, when possible, by trappers in connection +with other baits. These may consist of a fowl, fruit, or flesh of +any kind, and the honey should be smeared over it. Skunk cabbage +is said to be an excellent bait for the bear; and in all cases a +free use of the Oil of Anise page 152, sprinkling it about the +traps, is also advisable. Should the device fail, it is well to +make a trail (see page 153) in several directions from the trap, +and extending for several rods. A piece of wood, wet with Oil of +Anise, will answer for the purpose. + +The general method of skinning the bear consists in first cutting +from the front of the lower jaw down the belly to the vent, after +which the hide may be easily removed. The hoop-stretcher page 275, +will then come into good use in the drying and preparing of the +skin for market. + + +THE RACCOON. + +Although allied to the Bear family, this animal possesses much +in common with the fox, as regards its general disposition and +character. It has the same slyness and cunning, the same stealthy +tread, besides an additional mischievousness and greed. It is too +common to need any description here, being found plentifully throughout +nearly the whole United States. The bushy tail, with its dark rings, +will be sufficient to identify the animal in any community. Raccoon +hunts form the subject of many very exciting and laughable stories, +and a "coon chase," to this day is a favorite sport all over the +country. The raccoon, or "coon," as he is popularly styled, is +generally hunted by moonlight. An experienced dog is usually set +on the trail and the fugitive soon seeks refuge in a tree, when +its destruction is almost certain. Hence the term "treed coon," as +applied to an individual when in a dangerous predicament. Besides +possessing many of the peculiarities of the fox, the "coon" has +the additional accomplishment of being a most agile and expert +climber, holding so firmly to the limb by its sharp claws as to +defy all attempts to shake it off. + +[Page 173] +The home of the raccoon is generally in a hollow tree; the young +are brought forth in May, and are from four to six in number. + +In captivity this animal makes a very cunning and interesting pet, +being easily tamed to follow its master, and when dainties are in +view becomes a most adroit pickpocket. Its food is extensive in +variety, thus making it quite an easy matter to keep the creature +in confinement. Nuts and fruits of all kinds it eagerly devours, +as well as bread, cake and potatoes. It manifests no hesitation +at a meal of rabbit, rat, squirrel, or bird, and rather likes it +for a change, and when he can partake of a dessert of honey or +molasses his enjoyment knows no bounds. Frogs, fresh water clams, +green corn, and a host of other delicacies come within the range +of his diet, and he may sometimes be seen digging from the sand +the eggs of the soft-shelled turtle, which he greedily sucks. We +cordially recommend the coon as a pet. He becomes very docile, +and is full of cunning ways, and if the young ones can be traced +to their hiding-place in some hollow tree, and secured, if not +_too_ young, we could warrant our readers a great deal of real +sport and pleasure in rearing the little animals and watching their +ways. + +In cold climates the raccoon lies dormant in the winter, only venturing +out on occasional mild days; but in the Southern States he is active +throughout the year, prowling about by day and by night in search +of his food, inserting his little sharp nose into every corner, +and feeling with his slender paws between stones for spiders and +bugs of all kinds. He spies the innocent frog with his head just +out of the water, and pouncing upon him, he despatches him without +a moment's warning. There seems to be no limits to his rapacity, for +he is always eating and always hungry. The print of the raccoon's +paw in the mud or snow is easily recognized, much resembling the +impression made by the foot of a babe. + +The best season for trapping the coon is late in the fall, winter, +and early spring, or from and between the months of October and +April. During this time the pelts are in excellent condition. Early +in the spring when the snow is disappearing, the coons come out +of their hiding places to start on their foraging tours; and at +this time are particularly susceptible to a tempting bait, and +they may be successfully trapped in the following manner:-- + +Take a steel trap and set it on the edge of some pool, or stream +where the coons are known to frequent: let it be an inch +[Page 174] +or so under the water, and carefully chained to a clog. The bait +may consist of a fish, frog, or head of a fowl, scented with Oil +of Anise, and suspended over the traps about two feet higher, by +the aid of a sapling secured in the ground. (See title page at +the head of this section.) The object of this is to induce the +animal to jump for it, when he will land with his foot in the trap. +Another method is to construct a V shaped pen set the trap near +the entrance, and, fastening the bait in the angle, cover the trap +loosely with leaves, and scent the bait as before with the anise. +The trap should be at such a distance from the bait that the animal, +in order to reach it, will be obliged to tread upon the pan, which +he will be sure to do, his greed overcoming his discretion. Any +arrangement whereby the animal will be obliged to tread upon the +trap in order to reach the bait will be successful. + +[Illustration] + +The beaten track of the coons may often be discovered in soft ground, +and a trap carefully concealed therein will soon secure its victim. +Another method is to set the trap near the coon tracks, spreading a +few drops of anise on the pan and covering the whole with leaves. +The coon, attracted by the scent, will feel around in the leaves for +[Page 175] +the bait, and thus "put his foot in it." + +In the South they construct a coon trap from a hollow log, either +having the ends supplied with lids, which fall just like the Rat +trap page 100 as the animal passes through, or else constructed +with nooses, similar to the Box-snare, page 56. Box traps of a +style similar to that described on page 103 are also excellent, and +a strong twitch-up, of any of the various kinds we have described, +will be found to work admirably. + +Many of the suggestions in trapping the mink, page 190, will be +found equally, serviceable in regard to the coon. + +The skin of this animal should be removed as recommended for the +fox, and similarly stretched. It may also be skinned by first ripping +up the belly, and spread on a hoop stretcher. page 275. + + +THE BADGER. + +The American Badger is mostly confined to the Northwestern parts +of the United States, and it is a curious little animal. In size +its body is slightly smaller than the fox. Its general color is +grey, approaching to black on the head and legs. There is a white +streak extending from the tip of the animal's long nose over the +top of the head and fading off near the shoulders. The cheeks are +also white, and a broad and definitely marked black line extends +from the snout back around the eyes ending at the neck. The grey +of this animal is produced from the mixture of the varied tints +of its fur, each hair presenting a succession of shades. At the +root it is of a deep grey; this fades into a tawny yellow, and +is followed by a black, the hair being finally tipped with white. +The fur is much used in the manufacture of fine paint brushes, a +good "Badger blender" being a most useful accessory in the painter's +art. The badger is slow and clumsy in its actions, except when +engaged in digging, his capacities in this direction being so great +as to enable him to sink himself into the ground with marvellous +rapidity. The nest of the animal is made in the burrow, and the +young are three or four in number. His diet is as variable and +extensive as that of the coon, and consists of anything in any +way eatable. Snails, worms, rats, mice and moles, seem to have +a particular attraction for him; and he seems to take especial +delight in unearthing the stores of the wild bees, devouring honey, +wax and grubs together, and caring as little for the stings of the +[Page 176] +angry bees as he would of the bills of so many mosquitoes, the thick +coating of fur forming a perfect protection against his winged +antagonists. The badger is very susceptible to human influence, and +can be effectually tamed with but little trouble. Although his general +appearance would not indicate it, he is a sly and cunning animal, and +not easily captured in a trap of any kind. He has been known to set +at defiance all the traps that were set for him, and to devour +the baits without suffering for his audacity. He will sometimes +overturn a trap and spring it from the under side, before attempting +to remove the bait. Although not quite as crafty as the fox, it is +necessary to use much of the same caution in trapping the badger, +as a bare trap seldom wins more than a look of contempt from the +wary animal. + +[Illustration] + +The usual mode of catching the creature is to set the trap size +No. 3 at the mouth of its burrow, carefully covering it with loose +earth and securing it by a chain to a stake. Any of the methods +used in trapping the fox will also be found to work admirably. +The dead-fall or garrote will also do good service. Bait with a +rat, mouse, or with whatever else the animal is especially fond, +and scent with Oil of Anise or Musk. In early spring, while the +ground is still hard, badgers are easily captured by flooding their +burrows. After being satisfied that the animal is in its hole, +proceed to pour in pailful after pailful of water at the entrance. +[Page 177] +He will not long be able to stand this sort of thing, and he may +be secured as he makes his exit at the opening of the burrow. + +The skin should be removed whole, as in the case of the fox, or +as described for the beaver, and stretched as therein indicated. + + +THE BEAVER. + +The Beaver of North America has now a world-wide reputation for +its wonderful instinct and sagacity. The general appearance of +this animal is that of a very large muskrat with a broad flattened +tail, and the habits of both these animals are in many respects +alike. The beaver is an amphibious creature and social in its habits +of living, large numbers congregating together and forming little +villages, and erecting their dome-like huts like little Esquimaux. +The muskrat has this same propensity, but the habitation of the +beaver is on a much more extensive scale. These huts or "Beaver +lodges," are generally made in rivers and brooks; although sometimes +in lakes or large ponds. They are chiefly composed of branches, +moss, grass and mud, and are large enough to accommodate a family +of five or six. The form of the "lodges" is dome-like, and it varies +considerably in size. The foundation is made on the bottom of the +river, and the hut is built up like a mound, often twenty feet +in diameter and projecting several feet above the surface of the +water. The walls of this structure are often five or six feet thick, +and the roofs are all finished off with a thick layer of mud laid on +with marvellous smoothness. These huts form the winter habitations +of the beavers, and as this compost of mud, grass and branches +becomes congealed into a solid mass by the severe frosts of our +northern winter, it can easily be seen that they afford a safe +shelter against any intruder and particularly the wolverine, which +is a most deadly enemy to the beaver. So hard does this frozen mass +become as to defy even the edges of iron tools, and the breaking +open of the "Beaver houses" is at no time an easy task. Beavers +work almost entirely in the dark; and a pond which is calm and +placid in the day time will be found in the night to be full of +life and motion, and the squealing and splashing in the water will +bear evidence of their industry. Lest the beavers should not have +a sufficient depth of water at all seasons, they are in the habit +of constructing veritable dams to ensure that result. These dams +display a wonderful amount of reason and skill, and, together with +the huts, have won for the beaver a reputation +[Page 178] +for engineering skill which the creature truly deserves. In constructing +these ingenious dams the beavers, by the aid of their powerful teeth, +gnaw down trees sometimes of large size, and after cutting them into +smaller pieces float them on the water to the spot selected for +the embankment. In swift streams this embankment is built so as +to arch against the current, thus securing additional strength, +and evincing an instinct on the part of the animal which amounts +almost to reason. In cutting down the trees the beaver gnaws a +circular cut around the trunk, cutting deepest on the side toward +the water, thus causing the trunk to fall into the stream. The +first step in constructing the embankment is to lay the logs down +cautiously in the required line of the dam, afterwards weighting +them with heavy stones, which the beavers by their united efforts +roll upon them. The foundation of the embankment is often ten feet +in width, and is built up by continued heaping of branches, stones +and mud, until it forms a barrier of immense strength and resisting +power. In many cases, through a lapse of years, and through a +[Page 179] +consequent accumulation of floating leaves, twigs, and seeds of plants, +these embankments become thickly covered with vegetation, and, in many +cases in the Hudson Bay country, have even been known to nurture trees +of considerable dimensions. The broad flat tail of the animal serves a +most excellent purpose, in carrying the mud to the dams or huts, and +in matting and smoothing it into a solidity. + +[Illustration] + +The entrances to the various huts are all beneath the water, and +they all open into one common ditch, which is purposely dug in +the bed of the river, and is too deep to be entirely frozen. In +the summer time the huts are vacated, and the beavers make their +abode in burrows on the banks of the stream, which serve as a secure +retreat at all times, and particularly in winter when their houses +are molested. The Indians of the Northwest are aware of this fact, +and turn it to good account in the capture of the animals. + +When the beaver's village is in a small creek, or brook, it is +first necessary to stake the water across both above and below +the huts. The next thing is to ascertain the exact spots of the +burrows in the banks, and when we consider the river is covered +with ice, this seems a rather difficult problem. But this is where +the Indian shows his skill. He starts upon the ice, provided with +an ice chisel secured to a long, stout handle. With this he strikes +upon the ice, following the edge of the stream. The sound of the +blow determines to his practiced ear the direct spot opposite the +opening of the burrows, and at this point a hole a foot in diameter +is made through the ice. Following the edge of the bank he continues +his search, and in like manner cuts the holes through the ice until +all the retreats are discovered. While the expert Indians are thus +engaged, the "squaws" are occupied in the more laborious work of +breaking open the houses, and the beavers, alarmed at the invasion of +their sanctums, make for the banks, and the ready huntsmen stationed +at the various holes, watch for their victims beneath the openings, +until a violent motion or discoloration of the water betrays their +passage beneath. The entrance to the holes in the bank are then +instantly closed with stakes and the beaver is made prisoner in +his burrow. When the depth of the burrow will admit, the arm of +the hunter is introduced, and the animal pulled out, but otherwise +a long hook lashed to a pole is employed for this purpose. Scores +of beavers are sometimes taken in this way in a few hours. Spearing +is also often successfully resorted to, and when the ice is thin +[Page 180] +and transparent the beavers may be clearly observed as they come +to the surface, beneath the ice, for air. + +The general color of the animal is reddish brown, this tint being +imparted principally by the long hairs of the fur. There is an +inner and softer down of a grey color, which lies next the skin, +and which is the valuable growth of the fur. The total length of +the animal is about three feet and a half, the flat, paddle-shaped, +scale-covered tail being about a foot in length. + +The young are brought forth in April or May, from three to seven +at a litter, and take to the water when a month old. The first +four years in the beaver's life is spent under the "maternal roof," +after which period they shift for themselves. To trap the beaver +successfully, requires the utmost caution, as the senses of the +animal are so keen, and he is so sagacious withal, that he will detect +the recent presence of the trapper from the slightest evidences. +The traps should be washed clean and soaked in ley, before using, +and thereafter handled with gloves, as a mere touch of the finger +will leave a scent which the acute sense of the beaver will easily +perceive. All footprints should be carefully obliterated by throwing +water upon them, and some trappers say that the mere act of spitting +on the ground in the neighborhood of the traps has been known to +thwart success. + +Almost the only bait used in trapping the beaver is the preparation +called "barkstone" by the trappers, or "castoreum" in commerce. +This substance is fully described on page 150 under the head of +"Scent Baits." + +To the barkstone the trapper is mostly indebted for his success, +and the effect of its odor on the beaver is something surprising. +Our best trappers inform us that these animals will scent this +odor for a great distance, and will fairly "squeal with delight," +not being easy until the savory bait is discovered, which almost +invariably results in capture. + +Taking advantage of this curious propensity, the trapper always +carries a supply of castoreum in a closed vessel. + +There are various ways of trapping the beaver, of which we shall +present the best. An examination of the river bank will easily +disclose the feeding place of the beavers, as evinced by the absence +of the bark on the branches and trunks of trees. At this spot, +in about four inches of water, set your trap, which should be a +Newhouse No. 4. Weight the end of the chain with a stone as large +as your head, and, if possible, rest it on the edge of some rock +projecting into deep water, having a smaller rope or chain leading +from the stone to the shore. A small twig, the size of your little +[Page 181] +finger, should then be stripped of its bark, and after chewing or +mashing one end, it should be dipped in the castoreum. Insert this +stick in the mud, between the jaws of the trap, letting it project +about six inches above the water. The beaver is soon attracted by the +odor of the bait, and in reaching for it, his foot is caught in the +trap. In his fright he will immediately jump for deep water, thus +dislodging the stone, which will sink him to the bottom, and thus +drown him. The smaller chain or rope will serve as a guide to the +trap, and the victim may be drawn to the surface. Another plan is +to set the trap in about a foot of water, chaining it fast to a stout +pole securely driven in the mud further out in the stream, and +near deep water. Bait as before. The trap being thus fastened will +prevent the efforts of the animal to drag it ashore, where he would +be certain to amputate his leg and walk off. There is another method, +which is said to work excellently. The chain is secured to a very +heavy stone, and sunk in deep water, and the trap set and baited +near shore, in about a foot of water. This accomplishes the same +purpose as the pole first described, and is even surer, as the animal +will sometimes use his teeth in severing the wood, and thereby make +his escape. In the case of the stone a duplicate rope or chain +will be required to lift it in case of capture. + +The trap may be set at the entrance to the holes in the banks, +two or three inches under water, implanting the stick with the +castoreum bait directly over the pan, a few inches above the water. +If the water should be deep near this spot, it is an excellent plan +to weight the end of the chain with a large stone with a "leader" +from it also, as already described. Insert two or three sticks in +the bank beneath the water, and rest the stone upon them. + +When the beaver is caught he will turn a somersault into deep water, +at the same time dislodging the stone, which will sink him. No sooner +is a break ascertained in the dam than all the beavers unite in +fixing it, and this peculiarity of habit may be turned to account in +trapping them. Make a slight break in the dam, five inches across, +beneath the water. On the under side of the break, and of course, +on the inside of the dam, the trap should be set. The beavers will +soon discover the leak and the capture of at least _one_ is certain. +The trap may be also set where the beavers are wont to crawl on +shore, being placed several inches below the water in such a position +that they will step on it when in the act of ascending the banks. +Where the weighted stone is not used, the sliding pole page 145 +[Page 182] +should always be employed, as it is necessary to drown the animal, +to prevent amputation and escape. + +The food of the beaver consists chiefly of the bark of various +trees, together with aquatic plants. The fur is valuable only in +the late fall, winter, and early spring. + +In skinning the beaver, a slit is made from the under jaw to the +vent, after which it is easily removed. It should be tacked to a flat +board, fur side in, or stretched by means of a hoop, as described +on page 275. + + +THE MUSKRAT. + +The muskrat, or musquash, is very much like a beaver on a small +scale, and is so well-known throughout the United States that a +detailed description or illustration will hardly be necessary. +Reduce the size of the beaver to one foot in length, and add a +long flattened tail, instead of the spatula-shaped appendage of +this animal, and we will have a pretty good specimen of a muskrat. +The body has that same thick-set appearance, and the gnawing teeth +are very large and powerful. Like the beaver, the muskrat builds +its dome-like huts in ponds or swamps, which it frequents; and +although not as large as those of the beaver they are constructed +in the same manner and of the same materials. Muskrats are mostly +nocturnal in their habits; they are tireless swimmers, and in the +winter travel great distances beneath the ice; all of which +peculiarities are like the beaver. Their food is quite variable, +consisting of grass and roots, oats, corn and other grain, apples +and nuts, and even tomatoes, turnips, carrots, mussels and clams, +whenever these can be found. + +The muskrat is a native of all of the Eastern, Western, and Middle +States and also the Southern States, with the exception of Georgia, +Alabama and Florida. They are also found in Canada and the Arctic +regions, and in the North-west. They are hunted and captured as +a means of support to the native tribes of Indians who sell or +trade the furs to Eastern dealers. The fur somewhat resembles that +of the mink in texture, although not as fine, and the color varies +from dark brown above to grey beneath. It is in its best condition +during the winter, especially in March. The animal possesses a +musky smell, from which it takes its name. It is said by many that +the flesh of the animal, when carefully prepared, becomes quite +palatable food. + +Their houses are so nearly like those of the beaver that a +[Page 183] +second description is scarcely necessary. They are often five or +six feet in height, and the entrances are all under water. Dozens +of these huts may often be seen in ponds and marshes, and sometimes +they exist in such numbers as to give the appearance of a veritable +Esquimaux village. These houses are used only in the winter season. +In general the muskrat lives in burrows, which it excavates in the +banks of ponds or streams, bringing forth its young, from three +to nine in number, in the nest, which it forms at the end of the +tunnel. They are very prolific, producing three litters a year. Like +the beaver, otter and mink, the muskrat can travel long distances +under the ice with only one supply of fresh air, and its method +is certainly very interesting. Before plunging beneath the ice +the animal fills its lungs with air, and when under the water it +swims until it can no longer hold its breath. It then rises up +beneath the ice, empties its lungs, the air remaining in bubbles +beneath the ice. In a short time this air absorbs sufficient oxygen +from the water and ice as to be life-sustaining, when the animal +again inhales it and proceeds on its journey. It is by this means +that the beaver, muskrat and mink are enabled to travel such great +distances beneath unbroken ice, and it is certainly a very novel +and interesting method. Where the ice is thin and transparent these +animals are sometimes captured through the means of this habit. +A heavy stroke on the frozen hut will drive its occupants to the +water, and their course may easily be followed through the ice. +If one of them is tracked, he will presently be seen to stop at +the surface of the water for fresh oxygen, as already described. +The bubbles will soon appear, and if the hunter immediately strikes +with an axe or heavy stick directly on the spot, the submerged +animal will be literally driven away from its breath, and will +of course drown in a very few minutes. A short search will soon +reveal the dead creature, after which he may be taken out through +a hole cut in the ice. Otter and mink are sometimes taken in the +same way. In many localities great numbers of muskrats are also +captured by spearing, either through the ice or through the walls +of their houses. In the latter case, two are often taken at once. +This method is quite uncertain and unreliable, as the walls of +the hut are often so firmly frozen as to defy the thrust of the +hardest steel, and a fruitless attempt will drive the inmates from +their house at once. The spear generally used consists of a single +shaft of steel about eighteen inches in length and half an inch +in diameter, barbed at the point, and is feruled to a +[Page 184] +solid handle five feet long. In spearing through the hut the south +side is generally selected, as being more exposed to the heat of +the sun. Great caution is necessary, as the slightest noise will +drive out the inmates. The spear should be thrust in a slanting +direction, a few inches above the surface of the ice. Where many +houses exist it is well to destroy all but one. Into this the whole +tribe will centre, and by successive spearing they may all be captured. +When the spear has been thrust into the house, it must be thus +left until a hole is cut with a hatchet, through which to remove +the game. Spearing through the ice is a better method, but for +general service there is no means of capture more desirable than +by trapping. The steel trap No. 1 or 2 is the size particularly +adapted for the muskrat, and may be set in various ways. The most +common method is to set the trap under two inches of water on the +projecting logs or stones on the border of the streams where the +"signs" of the animal indicate its recent presence. The trap should +of course be secured by a chain, ringed to a sliding pole, page +145, which will lead the animal into deep water when captured, +and thus effect its speedy death by drowning. In this case bait is +not necessary. If their feeding grounds can be discovered, or if +their tracks indicate any particular spot where they crawl ashore +at the water's edge, at this point a trap may be set with good +success. In this instance it is well also to set it under water, +baiting with a piece of turnip, parsnip, apple, or the like, suspended +a few inches above the pan of the trap. Late in the fall, when +collecting their building material, they often form large beds of +dried grasses and sticks, and a trap set in these beds and covered +with some loose substance, such as grass, chaff, or the like, will +often secure the animal. The trap, in this case should be attached +to a spring-pole, page 145 as the muskrat is a wonderful adept +at self-amputation, when its escape depends upon it. + +The trap is sometimes set in the interior of the house, and may +be accomplished by first breaking an opening in the wall, near +the ice, the trap being inserted and set, afterwards covering it +with the loose grass and moss, which is generally abundant in the +interior of these huts. When this is done, the chain should be +secured to a stick on the outside, and the hole repaired. No spring +or sliding-pole is necessary in this method, as the animal when +caught will immediately run for the water, and the weight of the +trap will sink and drown its prisoner. + +Scent baits are sometimes used in trapping the muskrat, the +[Page 185] +musk taken from the female animal being particularly valued. The +Oils of Rhodium and Amber, page 151 are also successfully employed +by many trappers; a few drops of either in the neighborhood of +the trap, or directly upon it, being sufficient. + +Although steel traps are most generally used, there are several +other devices which are equally if not even _more_ desirable. Chief +among these is the barrel trap, commonly and successfully employed +in many parts of New England, where these animals often exist in +such numbers as to render their destruction a matter of necessity. + +The above trap consists merely of an old barrel, sunk to its upper +edge in the river bank, and about half filled with water. On the +surface of the water a few light pieces of wood are floated, over +which the bait, consisting of carrot, sweet apple, or turnip, is +placed. A trail is then made by dragging a piece of scented meat +from the barrel in various directions, and a few pieces of the +bait are also strewn along these trails. The muskrats will thus +be led to the barrel, and will be certain to jump in after the +tempting morsels, and their escape is impossible. No less than +a dozen muskrats have been thus caught in a single barrer in one +night, and a few of these traps have been known almost to exterminate +the musquashes in localities where they had previously existed in +such numbers as to become a pestilence to the neighborhood. + +A barrel trap constructed on the principle described on page 131 +is also equally effective, although rather more complicated in +construction. The Twitch-up is often used, and possesses the advantage +of a trap and spring-pole combined. Box traps, page 103, are also +to be recommended. + +The skin of the muskrat may be removed in the same manner as hereinafter +described for the otter, with the exception of the tail. This is +considered the best method. It may also be taken off flat by ripping +from the under jaw to the vent, and peeling around the eyes and +mouth, letting the skin of the legs come off whole, without cutting. + +Another common method consists in cutting off the feet, and then +ripping with a knife from the front of the lower jaw down the neck +and belly to a point a little beyond the forelegs. The lips, eyes, and +ears are then carefully skinned, and the hide is stripped backwards +from the body. In the latter method the bow-stretcher, page 274, +is used. + + +[Page 186] +THE OTTER. + +The fur of this animal is of such exquisite softness and beauty +as to be in great demand for commercial purposes, bringing a very +high price in the fur market. + +[Illustration] + +The otter cannot be said to be a common animal, although it is +found throughout the United States and Canada, being rather more +plentiful in the cold northern localities than in the southern +latitudes. It is an amphibious animal, and can remain for a long +time beneath the water. In size it is larger than a cat, and it +possesses a tapering tail some eighteen inches in length. Its fur +is of a rich brown color, and the hair is of two kinds, the one a +close, fine, and exquisitely soft down, which lies next the skin, +and which serves to protect the animal from the extremes of heat and +cold, and the other composed of long shining coarser hairs, which +permit the animal to glide easily through the water. In producing +the beautiful otter furs of fashion these long hairs are plucked +out, leaving only the softer down next the hide. The food of the +otter mostly consists of fish, for the pursuit of which he has +been admirably endowed by nature. His body is lithe and supple, +and his feet are furnished with a broad web, which connects the +toes, and is of infinite service in propelling the animal through +[Page 187] +the water when in search of his finny prey. His long, broad and flat +tail serves as a most effectual rudder, and the joints of his powerful +legs are so flexible as to permit of their being turned in almost any +direction. + +The habitation of the otter is made in the banks of the river which +it frequents, or sometimes in a hollow log or crevice beneath rocks. +The animal generally prefers to adopt and occupy a natural hollow +or deserted excavation, rather than to dig a burrow for itself. +The nest is composed of dry rushes, grasses and sticks, and the +young, three or four in number, are produced in early spring. + +The _track_ which the otter makes in the mud or snow is easily +distinguished from that of any other animal, on account of the +"seal" or impression which is made by a certain ball on the sole of +the foot. Otter hunting is a favorite sport in England, and indeed +in the northern parts of our own country. Hounds are used to pursue +the animal, and on account of the powerfully scented secretion with +which the creature is furnished by nature, its track is readily +followed. When attacked, the otter is a fierce and terrible fighter, +biting and snapping with most deadly energy and never yielding as +long as life remains in the body. The bite of an angry otter is +extremely severe, and for this reason we would caution the amateur +trapper on handling the animal should one be taken alive. + +Although so fierce and savage when attacked, the otter is easily +tamed when taken young, and can be taught to catch fish for the +service of its master, rather than for the gratification of its +own palate. + +In the winter when the snow is on the ground, the otter navigates +by sliding, and when on the ice he may often be seen to run a few +steps and then throw himself on his belly and slide the distance +of several feet. They are very fond of playing in the snow, and +make most glorious use of any steep snow-covered bank, sloping +toward the river. Ascending to the top of such an incline they +throw themselves on the slippery surface and thus slide swiftly +into the water. This pastime is often continued for hours, and +is taken advantage of in trapping the playful creatures. A short +search will reveal the place where they crawl from the water on +to the bank, and at this spot, which will generally be shallow, +a steel trap should be set on the bed of the river, about four +inches under water. The trap should be secured by a stout chain, +the latter being ringed to a sliding pole, page 145, which will +lead the animal when caught into deep +[Page 188] +water. If deep water is not near at hand, the spring pole, page +144, may be used, the object of either being to prevent the animal +from gnawing off its leg and thus making its escape. + +The trap may also be placed at the top or the slide, two or three +feet back of the slope, a place being hollowed out to receive it +and the whole covered with snow. To make success more certain a +log may be laid on each side of the trap, thus forming an avenue +in which the animal will be sure to run before throwing itself on +the slope. Care should be taken to handle nothing with the bare +hands, as the otter is very keen scented and shy. Anoint the trap +with a few drops of fish oil or otter musk, see page 151. If none +of these are handy, ordinary musk will answer very well. + +The trap may also be set and weighted with a heavy stone and chain, +as described for trapping the beaver. Another method still is to +find some log in the stream having one end projecting above water. +Sprinkle some musk on this projecting end and set the trap on the +log in three or four inches of water, securing it firmly by a chain, +also beneath the water. + +A rock which projects over the stream may also be utilized in the +same way as seen in the page title at the opening of this section. +Smear the musk on the edge which juts into the water, and secure +the trap by the chain as before. When the animal is caught he will +fall or jump into the water, and the weight of the trap and chain +will sink him. In every case it is necessary to obliterate every +sign of human presence by throwing water over every foot print, and +over everything with which the naked hands have come in contact. +Where the traps are thus set in the water it should be done while +wading or in a boat. In the winter when the ponds and rivers are +frozen over the otters make holes through the ice at which they +come up to devour their prey. Where the water is a foot deep beneath +any of these holes the trap may be set in the bottom, the chain +being secured to a heavy stone. When the otter endeavors to emerge +from the hole he will press his foot on the trap and will thus +be caught. If the water is deep beneath the hole the trap may be +baited with a small fish attached to the pan, and then carefully +lowered with its chain and stone to the bottom. For this purpose +the Newhouse, No. 3, is best adapted, as the otter is in this case +caught by the head. + +The beaten track of the animal may often be discovered in the snow +in the winter time, and a trap carefully sunk in such a furrow +and covered so as to resemble its surroundings, will be likely +to secure the first otter that endeavors to pass over it. A trap +set at the mouth of the otter's burrow and carefully covered +[Page 189] +is also often successful, using the sliding pole, page 145, to lead +him into deep water. + +Every trapper has his pet theories and methods of trapping all +the different animals, and the otter has its full share. We have +given several of the _best_ methods; and anyone of them will secure +the desired result of capture, and all of them have stood the test +of time and experience. + +The skin of the otter should be removed whole, and the operation +may be performed in the following manner: Slit down the hind legs +to the vent; cut the skin loose around the vent, and slit up the +entire length of the tail, freeing it from the bone. With the aid +of the knife the skin should now be peeled off, drawing it backward +and carefully cutting around the mouth and eyes before taking it +from the head. + +With the fur thus inside, the skin is ready for the stretcher as +described on page 273, and the tail should be spread out and tacked +around the edges. + + +THE MINK. + +This animal, as will be seen by our illustration, has a long, slender +body, something like the weasel, to which scientific family it +belongs. It inhabits the greater part of North America, and is also +found abundantly in Northern Europe. The color of its fur varies +considerably in different individuals, the general tint being a rich, +dark brown. The chin and throat are light colored, sometimes white, +and this spot varies considerably in size in different individuals, +sometimes extending down on the throat to a considerable distance. +The total length of the animal is from thirteen to sixteen inches, +its size being variable. + +The fur of the mink is excellent in quality, and has for many years +been one of the "fancy furs" of fashion, a good prime skin often +bringing from ten to twelve dollars. The introduction of the fur +seal, however, and the universal demand for this as well as otter +fur, has somewhat thrown the mink into comparative shade, although +extra fine skins will still command high prices. + +The mink is an aquatic animal, inhabiting small rivers and streams, +and living somewhat after the manner of the otter. It has a most +wide range of diet, and will eat almost anything which is at all +eatable. Fishes, frogs, and muskrats are his especial delight, +and he will occasionally succeed in pouncing upon a snipe or wild +duck, which he will greedily devour. Craw +[Page 190] +fish, snails, and water insects of all kinds also come within the +range of his diet, and he sometimes makes a stray visit to some +neighboring poultry yard to satisfy the craving of his abnormal +hunger. A meal off from his own offspring often answers the same +purpose; and a young chicken in the egg he considers the ne plus +ultra of delicacies. The voracity of this animal is its leading +characteristic, and is so largely in excess of its cunning or sagacity +that it will often run headlong into a naked trap. Its sense of +smell is exceedingly well developed, and through this faculty it +is often enabled to track its prey with ease and certainty. The +mink lives in burrows, in steep banks, or between rocks or the +roots of trees, and the young, five or six in number, are brought +forth in May. + +[Illustration] + +The chief occupation of the mink consists in perpetual search for +something to eat, and, when so engaged, he may be seen running +along the bank of the stream, peering into every nook and corner, +and literally "leaving no stone unturned" in its eager search. +Taking advantage of this habit, it becomes an easy matter to trap +the greedy animal. Set your trap, a Newhouse No. 2, in an inch +of water near the edge of the stream, and directly in front of +a steep bank or rock, on which you can place your bait. The bait +may be a frog, fish, or head of a +[Page 191] +bird, suspended about eighteen inches above the water, and should +be so situated that in order to reach it, the mink will be obliged +to tread upon the trap. The trap may also be set in the water and +the bait suspended eighteen inches above it, by the aid of a switch +planted in the mud near the trap. It is a good plan to scent the +bait with an equal mixture of sweet oil and peppermint, with a +little honey added. If there is deep water near, the sliding pole, +page 145, should be used, and if not, the "spring pole" in every +case, in order to prevent the captured mink from becoming a prey to +larger animals, and also to guard against his escape by amputation, +which he would otherwise most certainly accomplish. + +The trap may be set on the land, near the water's edge, baiting +as just described, and lightly covered with leaves or dirt. Any +arrangement of the trap whereby the animal is obliged to tread +upon it in order to secure the bait, will be found effectual. + +The trap may be set at the foot of a tree, and the bait fastened +to the trunk, eighteen inches above it. A pen, such as is described +on page 144, may be constructed, and the trap and bait arranged as +there directed. Minks have their regular beaten paths, and often +visit certain hollow logs in their runways. In these logs they +leave unmistakable signs of their presence, and a trap set in such +a place is sure of success. + +Some trappers set a number of traps along the stream at intervals +of several rods, connecting them by a trail, see page 153, the mink +being thus led directly and almost certainly to his destruction. +This trail is made by smearing a piece of wood with the "medicine" +described at page 153, and dragging it on the line of the traps. +Any mink which crosses this trail will follow it to the first trap, +when he will, in all probability, be captured. A dead muskrat, crow, +fish, or a piece of fresh meat dragged along the line answers the +same purpose. The beaten tracks of the mink may often be discovered, +and a trap set in such a track and covered with leaves, dirt or the +like, will often be successful. + +Minks may also be easily caught in the dead-fall. Garrote trap +or a twitch-up, baiting with fish, muskrat, flesh, or the head +of a bird, of which the animal is especially fond. A liberal use +of the "medicine" is also desirable. + +The fur of the mink is in its best condition in the late autumn, +winter, and early spring, and the animal should be skinned as described +for the fox. + + +[Page 192] +THE PINE MARTEN. + +This animal belongs to the tribe of "weasels," and is closely allied +to the celebrated sable, which it greatly resembles. The pine marten +is so called because it inhabits the northern climates where pine +forests abound, and spends much of its life in the trees in search +of its prey. Its general appearance is truly represented in our +illustration, its fur being of a rich brown color, with a lighter +or white patch on the throat. Its total length, including the tail, +is about twenty-eight or thirty inches, of which the tail represents +ten inches. It is mostly confined to the forests in the far north, +and is comparatively rare further south than the latitude of Maine +and the lakes. The fur of the pine marten is of considerable value, +particularly if the animal be killed in the winter. A really fine +skin is but little inferior to the celebrated sable, and is hardly +distinguishable from it. The hair is long and glossy, and the under +fur is beautifully soft and very thick. The dark colored skins are +the most valuable. Although so nearly like the sable, the same +comparison does not exist in regard to their proportionate market +values, the marten fur bringing a much lower price. + +[Illustration] + +The marten is a shy and wary animal, withdrawing itself as far +as possible from the sight of man, and building its habitation in +the tops of trees, often seizing on the ready nest of some squirrel +or bird, and adapting it to its purposes. + +[Page 193] +It is a night prowler, and in the dark hours it traverses the trunks +and branches of the trees in search of its prey. It moves with +wonderful stealth and activity, and is enabled by its rapid and +silent approach to steal unnoticed on many an unfortunate bird +or squirrel, seizing it in its deadly grip before the startled +creature can think to escape. Coming across a bird's nest, it makes +sad havoc with the eggs or young, often adding the parent bird +to his list of victims. Rabbits, partridges, and mice also fall +into the marten's "bill of fare," and the list is often further +increased by a visit to a poultry yard, when the animal murders +and eats all it can and kills the rest for sport. In pouncing upon +its prey, the marten invariably seizes its victim by the throat, +often dispatching the luckless creature with a single bite. + +The martens generally are said to be very susceptible to human +influence when taken young, and are very lively in a state of +domestication. They are among the most graceful of animals, and +in place of the disagreeable scent which renders many of their +tribe offensive, this creature possesses an odor which is quite +agreeable, and for this reason is often called the sweet marten +in contradistinction to the foul marten or pole cat of Britain, +which is like unto our skunk in the disgusting stench which it +exhales. + +The dead-fall and Garrote traps are very successful in trapping +the martin. They should be set several rods apart, in the forest +or on the banks of streams, and a trail established by dragging +a dead or roasted crow, entrails of a bird, or fresh meat from +one trap to another, as described in relation to the mink, page +190. The twitch-up may also be used, and possesses the additional +advantage of acting as a spring pole, thus holding the captured +victim out of reach of larger animals, to which it might otherwise +become a prey. Any of the varieties described under the title of +"twitch-up" will answer the purpose, and a little experimenting +will soon prove which one will be the most successful for this +particular animal. The bait may consist of a bird's or fowl's head, +fish, liver, or any fresh meat or entrails. + +The common box trap, page 103, or the box snare, page 56, may also +be used to good purpose, but the former will need to be carefully +watched lest the enclosed prisoner gnaw his way out and thus escape. + +When the steel trap is employed, it should be of the size of Newhouse, +No. 2-1/2, set on the ground beneath some rock, +[Page 194] +and covered with leaves, rotten wood, or earth, and the bait fastened +or suspended about eighteen inches above it, in such a position +that the animal will be obliged to step upon the trap in order to +reach it. An enclosure may be constructed of stones piled together, +the trap being set and covered in the opening and the bait secured +at the back. A staked pen, such as is described on page 143, with +the trap and bait arranged as there directed, also works well. +Wherever or however the trap is set, the bait should be so placed +that the animal cannot possibly climb on any neighboring object to +reach it. The hollow of a tree trunk forms an excellent situation +for the trap, and the same hollow may also be baited at the back +and a dead-fall constructed across its opening. The box or barrel +pit-fall, described on page 127, is said to be very successful in +trapping the marten, always baiting it with the platform secure +for a few days before setting for capture. The same methods directed +for the capture of the mink are also useful in trapping the marten. +The animal should be skinned as described for the fox. + + +THE FISHER. + +This animal is classed among the martens, and is principally to +be found in Canada and the Northern United States, where it is +known as the black cat, or woodshock. In our natural histories it +is described under the name of the pekan. + +In general habits, this species resembles the other martens, but its +body inclines more to the weasel shape. The fur is quite valuable, +and much resembles the sable. Its color is generally of a greyish +brown, the grey tint being found chiefly on the back, neck, head +and shoulders, the legs, tail, and back of the neck being marked +with dark brown. Like the marten, the fisher prowls by night, +frequenting swampy places in quest of food. + +It builds its habitation in hollow trees, and in burrows, which it +excavates in the banks of rivers or streams, and its young (generally +twins) are produced in early spring. The trapping season for the +fisher commences at about the middle of October, and extends to +the middle of May, after which time the fur decreases in value. + +In trapping the fisher, the same plans may be used as for the marten +and mink, as these animals much resemble each other in general +habits. The steel trap arranged in an artificial or +[Page 195] +natural enclosure, or otherwise so set as that the animal will be +obliged to step on it in order to reach the bait, will be successful +and the use of composition "scent bait," described on page 153 will +be found to enhance success. In every case where the steel trap +is used the spring pole, page 144, should always be employed, for +the reasons already described. + +Dead-falls, garrotes, box-traps, twitch-ups, or pit-falls, may +all be employed to good advantage. Bait with a fish or bird, or +fresh meat of any kind, and connect the various traps by a trail, +as described for the mink and marten. + +Remove the skin as directed for the fox, and stretch as described +on page 273. + + +THE SKUNK. + +This disgusting animal has won the unenviable but deserving reputation +of being the most foul-smelling creature on the face of the globe. +He belongs to the weasel tribe, and all these animals are noted +for certain odors which they possess, but the skunk is pre-eminent +in the utter noisomeness of the horrid effluvium which it exhales. + +This scent proceeds from a liquid secretion which collects in a +gland beneath the insertion of the tail, and the animal has the +power to eject or retain it at will. + +It must have been given to the creature as a means of defence, +for there seems to be no animal that can withstand the influence +of its fetid stench. Dogs are trained to hunt the animal, but until +they have learned from experience the right method of attacking the +fetid game, and have discovered the whereabouts of the animal's +magazine of ammunition, they are of little use to the hunter, and +are only too glad to plunge into some neighboring brook, or roll +in some near earth, in hopes of ridding themselves of the stench +which almost distracts them. The offensive propensities of the +skunk are only exercised when the animal is alarmed or frightened. +There are generally certain "premonitory symptoms" of attack which +the creature usually exhibits, and it is well to retire from his +"shooting range" as soon as they are observed. + +When the animal is ready to discharge his battery, he suddenly +elevates his large bushy tail, over his body, and turns his back +on his enemy. The result of the discharge fills the air for a great +distance around, and man and beast fly from the neighborhood of +the indescribable and fetid effluvium, which fairly makes one's +nostrils _ache_. + +[Page 196] +A single drop of this disgusting secretion on the clothes is enough +to scent the whole garment, and it is almost impossible to rid +the tainted fabric from the odor. + +It is extremely acrid in quality, and if a very small quantity +fall upon the eyes, it is very apt to produce permanent blindness. + +Dogs, in their first experiences with the skunk, are frequently +thus blinded, and there are well authenticated instances of human +beings who have been deprived of their sight through their close +proximity to an infuriated skunk. + +[Illustration] + +The writer, in his extreme youth, learned, through dear experience, +the putrid qualities of this noisome quadruped. It was on one bright +Sunday, in New England, and he was out in his Sunday clothing, +gathering wild strawberries. He suddenly discovered a pretty little +playful animal with bushy tail, romping in the grass near him. +The creature was seemingly gentle, and showed no inclination to +run away, and the pet-loving nature of the writer prompted an +irresistible desire to capture so pretty a creature. Encouraged +by its gentle manner, he eagerly ran towards the tempting prize, +and grasping it by the bushy tail, which the animal had raised +perpendicularly, as if for a handle, the pretty creature was locked +[Page 197] +in the affectionate embrace of its youthful admirer. But alas! he +soon repented his rashness, and the treacherous "pet" was quickly +flung away leaving its victim in such a foul state of overwhelming +astonishment as can be more easily imagined than described. + +Every article of clothing worn on that eventful Sunday had to be +buried, and it took weeks of Sundays before the odor could be thoroughly +eradicated from the hair and skin of the individual who wore those +Sunday garments. After this adventure, the youth became more cautious +with respect to pretty little playful animals, with black and white +fur and bushy tails. + +There is hardly a farmer in the country but what has had some amusing +or serious experience with the skunk, and almost every trapper +has, at one time or another, served as a target for his shooting +propensities. Natural histories are replete with anecdotes of which +this animal is the mephitic hero, and volumes might be filled to +the glory of his strong-smelling qualities. + +Perhaps it is through the prejudice of the writer that he cannot +enthusiastically recommend the skunk as a domestic pet; but it +is nevertheless asserted, on good authority, that these animals, +when reared from the young, become very interesting and playful +in the household, and completely shut down on their objectionable +faculties. + +Our illustration gives a very good idea of the animal, and it is +so unlike any other creature that a further description will not +be necessary. The prevailing colors are white and black; but these +vary much in proportion, the animal sometimes being almost totally +white, or altogether black. The fur is long, and comparatively coarse, +being intermixed with long, glossy hairs, and is most valuable in +the black animal. The body of the creature is about a foot and a +half in length, exclusive of the tail, which adds about fourteen +inches more. + +The skunk is generally nocturnal in its habits, secreting itself +during the day in hollow trees, or crevices in rocks, or wood-piles. +At night it ventures forth in quest of its food, which consists +chiefly of grasshoppers, worms and other insects, wild fruit and +such small animals in the shape of frogs, mice and birds as it can +capture. The poultry yard often offers an irresistible temptation, +and both fowls and eggs often serve to appease his appetite. + +The skunk is common throughout the greater part of North America, +and in many localities the numbers increase very +[Page 198] +rapidly unless checked. The young are brought forth in burrows +or holes in rocks during April or May, and are from six to nine +in number. + +"Skunk fur" does not sound well when thought of in connection with +a set of fashionable furs; and for this reason the pelt of this +animal is dignified by the name of Alaska sable by all dealers in +the article. When known by this fancy title it suddenly becomes a +very popular addition to fashion's winter wardrobe, and is one of +the leading furs which are exported to meet the demand of foreign +countries. Foul as the animal is, it seldom soils its own fur with +its offensive fluid; and when carefully skinned the fur is as saleable +as that of any other animal. + +The Skunk is trapped in a variety of ways; and as the animal is +not cunning, no great skill is required. The steel trap is most +commonly used, as other wooden varieties, box traps or dead-falls, +for instance, are apt to absorb and retain the stench of the animal. +In using the steel trap the size No. 2 should be taken. It may be +set at the entrance to their burrows or in their feeding grounds. +It should be covered with loose earth or chaff, or some other light +substance, and baited with small bits of meat, dead mice, or eggs +placed around it. The enclosure illustrated on page 143 also answers +well, and in all cases the spring pole, page 144, should be used. +The dead-fall, page 107, is often employed, and the twitch-up, page +43, is a particularly effective contrivance for their capture, often +preventing the evil consequences of the odor by causing instant +dislocation of the neck, and this without injuring the fur. A stroke +upon the backbone near the tail, by producing paralysis of the +parts, also prevents the animal from using his offensive powers, +and a dead-fall so constructed as to fall upon the animal at this +part will accomplish the same effect. To manage this it is only +necessary to place the bait far back in the enclosure, so that +the skunk on reaching it will bring the rear portion of his body +beneath the suspended log. The scent of the skunk is as we have +said, almost ineradicable, but we would recommend chloride of lime +as the most effectual antidote. + +It is also said by some trappers that the odor may be dissipated +by packing the garment in fresh hemlock boughs, letting it thus +remain for a couple of days. This is certainly a valuable hint +if true, and is well worth remembering. + +For skinning the skunk, see Beaver, Otter and Fox. + + +[Page 199] +THE WOLVERINE. + +This, one of the most ferocious as well as detestable of American +animals, is principally found in British America and the upper +portion of the United States. It has won a world wide reputation +for its fierceness and voracity, and on this account is popularly +known as the Glutton. It is not confined to America, but is also +found in Siberia and Northern Europe. + +[Illustration] + +The general appearance of this animal, ugly in disposition as in +appearance, is truthfully given in our illustration. It is not +unlike a small bear in looks, and was formerly classed among that +genus. + +The general color of the wolverine is dark brown. The muzzle, as +far back as the eye-brows, is black, and the immense paws partake +of the same hue. The claws of the animal are +[Page 200] +long and almost white, forming a singular contrast to the jetty fur +of the feet. So large are the feet of this animal, and so powerful +the claws, that a mere look at them will tell the story of their +death dealing qualities, a single stroke from one of them often +being sufficient for a mortal wound. Although the wolverine is +not as large as the bear, its foot prints in the snow are often +mistaken for those of that creature, being nearly of the same size. + +The glutton feeds largely on the smaller quadrupeds, and is a most +determined foe to the beaver during the summer months; the ice-hardened +walls of their houses serving as a perfect protection against his +attacks in the winter time. + +To the trapper of the north the wolverine is a most detested enemy, +following the rounds of the traps and either detaching the baits +or tearing away the dead animals which have fallen a prey to them. +The trapper's entire circuit will be thus followed in a single +night, and where the veritable "glutton" does not care to devour +its victim it will satisfy its ferocious instinct by scratching +it in pieces, leaving the mutilated remains to tell the story of +its nocturnal visit. + +The wolverine is a dangerous foe to many animals larger than itself, +and by the professional hunter it is looked upon as an ugly and +dangerous customer. + +There are several methods of trapping this horrid creature, and +in many localities successful trapping of other animals will be +impossible without first ridding the neighborhood of the wolverines. +Dead-falls of large size will be found to work successfully, baiting +with the body of some small animal, such as a rat or squirrel. +A piece of cat, beaver or muskrat flesh is also excellent, and +by slightly scenting with castoreum success will be made sure. +Several of these traps may be set at intervals, and a trail made +by dragging a piece of smoked beaver meat between them. The gun +trap, as described on page 20, will also do good service in +exterminating this useless and troublesome animal. + +Steel traps of size No. 3 or 4 are commonly used to good purpose. +They may be arranged in any of the various methods already described, +the plan of the enclosure, page 143, being particularly desirable. In +all cases the trap should be covered with leaves, moss or the like, +and the bait slightly scented with castoreum. Like all voracious +animals, the perpetual greed of the wolverine completely overbalances +its caution, and thus renders its capture an easy task. + +[Page 201] +The home of the animal is generally in a crevice or cave between +rocks, and its young, two or three in number, are brought forth +in May. + +In removing the skin, it may be ripped up the belly, or taken off +whole, as described for the fox. + + +THE OPOSSUM. + +[Illustration] + +The opossum is found more or less throughout nearly all the United +States. In size it equals a large cat, the tail being about fifteen +inches long, very flexible and covered with scales. The general +color of the fur is grayish-white, slightly tinged with yellow, +[Page 202] +and the legs are of a brownish hue, which color also surrounds the +eyes to some extent. + +The fur is comparatively soft and wooly, and thickly sprinkled with +long hairs, white at the base and brown at the tips. + +The nature and habits of the animal are very interesting. Its nest +is made in some sheltered hollow in an old fallen or live tree, +or beneath overhanging roots or rocks, and composed of moss and +dead leaves. The young are produced in several litters during the +year, and when born are transferred by the mother to a pouch situated +in the lower front portion of her body. Here they remain and are +nourished by the parent until they are five weeks old, at which +time they emerge and travel with their mother, and their little +ring tails do them good service in holding fast to their guardian. +It is an amusing sight to see a family of young 'possums thus linked +together, and so "attached to each other." + +The opossum is a voracious and destructive animal, prowling about +during the hours of darkness and prying into every nook and corner in +hope of finding something that may satisfy the cravings of imperious +hunger. Rats, mice, nuts, berries, birds, insects and eggs are all +devoured by this animal; and when not content with these he does +not hesitate to insinuate himself into the poultry yard, and make +a meal on the fowls and young chickens. His fondness for fruit and +Indian corn often leads him to commit great havoc among plantations +and fruit trees, and his appetite for the fruit of the persimmon tree +is proverbial. While feeding on these fruits he frequently hangs +by his tail, as seen in our illustration, gathering the persimmons +with his fore paws and eating them while thus suspended. He is a +most agile climber, and his tenacity and terminal resources in +this direction are admirably depicted in that well known Methodist +sermon, as follows: "An' you may shake one foot loose, but 'tothers +thar; an' you may shake _all_ his feet loose, but he laps his tail +around the lim' an' he clings forever." + +He is an adept at feigning death, "playing 'possum" so skilfully +as frequently to deceive an expert. + +"'Possums" are hunted in the Southern States much after the manner +of coons; and to the negroes a "'possum hunt" signifies most unbounded +sport." + +Though cunning in many ways, the opossum is singularly simple in +others. There is hardly any animal more easily captured; for it +will walk into the clumsiest of traps, and permit itself to be +ensnared by a device at which an American rat would look with utter +contempt. + +[Page 203] +The dead-fall, garrote, or stout snare may all be employed, being +baited with any of the substances already described. The steel +trap 2-1/1 or 3 is most commonly used, being set in the haunts of +the animal, and slightly scented with musk. + +See Fox and Beaver, for directions for skinning, stretching, etc., +etc. + + +THE RABBIT. + +The rabbit or "cotton tail," as he is familiarly termed, is too +well-known to need any description here. From Maine to Texas our +woods abound with these fleet-footed little creatures, of which +there are several American species. They are the swiftest of all +American quadrupeds, and have been known to clear over twenty feet +in a single leap. They are all natural burrowers, although they +often forego the trouble of excavating a home when one can be found +already made, and which can be easily modified or adapted to their +purposes. The common rabbit of New England often makes its home or +"form," beneath a pile of brush or logs, or in crevices in rocks. +Here it brings forth its young, of which there are often three +or four litters a year. The creature becomes a parent at a very +early age, and by the time that a rabbit is a year old it may have +attained the dignity of a grand parent. + +The food of the rabbit consists of grasses, bark, leaves, bulbs, +young twigs, buds, berries and the like, and of cultivated vegetables +of all kinds, when opportunity favors. When surprised in the woods +it manifests its alarm by violently striking the ground with its +feet, causing the peculiar sound so often noticed at their first +jump. The animal is fond of pursuing a beaten path in the woods, +and is often snared at such places. Its enemies, beside man, are +the lynx, and other carnivorous animals, hawks, owls, and even +the domestic cat. + +The rabbit is a favorite game with all amateur sportsmen, and the +devices used in its capture are multitudinous. It is by no means +a difficult animal to trap, and a glance through the second and +fourth sections of our book, will reveal many ingenious snares +and other contrivances, commonly and successfully used. + +The Box trap, page 103, is perhaps the most universal example of +rabbit trap, but the Self-setting trap, page 110, and Double-ender, +page 109, are also equally effective where the animal is desired +to be taken alive. If this is not an object, the snare is to be +recommended as simple in construction and sure in its result. + +[Page 204] +The above constitute the only devices commonly used for the capture +of the rabbit, the steel trap being dispensed with. On page 109 +will be found additional remarks concerning the rabbit, and many +hints no baiting, etc., are also given under the heads of the various +traps above alluded to. + +The skin of the rabbit is very thin and tender, and should be carefully +removed, either as described for the fox, or in the ordinary method, +by incision up the belly. Full directions for curing and tanning +the skins will be found under its proper head in a later portion +of this work. + + +THE WOOD-CHUCK. + +This animal also called the marmot, is so well-known to most of +our readers, that a detailed description will not be necessary, +suffice it to say that the general color is brownish grey above, +changing to reddish brown on the under parts. The head, tail and +feet partaking of a darker color. The length of the animal is about +a foot and a-half, exclusive of the tail, which is four inches +long. + +The woodchuck is a clumsy looking animal, and anything but active +in its movements. It is very unintelligent, and is always too ready +to use its powerful teeth on the hand of any one who may attempt +to handle it. It is naturally a timid animal, but when cornered +or brought to bay, it fights most desperately. + +The woodchuck is an expert excavator, and where the animals exist +in large numbers great damage is done by their united burrowing. They +generally remain in their burrows during the day, only venturing out +casually to see what is going on, and keeping near their entrance. +Towards evening they start out to feed, devouring certain grasses +and weeds, and also pumpkins and green corn with avidity, ever +and anon sitting upright on their haunches, to see if the coast +is clear. In case they are surprised in their meal, they hurry +home in a pell-mell sort of a way, giving as much the appearance +of rolling as running, but, nevertheless, getting over the ground +with fair speed for such an unwieldy animal. The skin is loose and +very tough, and possesses no commercial value, being principally +used for whiplashes. Their burrows are generally on the slope of +a hill, and often at the foot of a rock or tree. These tunnels +vary from ten to thirty feet in length, sloping downward from the +opening, afterward taking an upward turn and terminating in a roomy +chamber, in which the animal sleeps in +[Page 205] +winter and where the young from three to eight in number are brought +forth. The woodchuck is found throughout nearly the whole of the +United States, and is especially abundant in New England, where +it is a decided nuisance. It is found as far south as Tennessee, +and westward to the Rocky Mountains. The flesh of the woodchuck +is by many much esteemed as food, particularly in the Fall. When +used for this purpose, the animal should be skinned and carefully +cleaned immediately after death, taking especial care to remove the +masses of fat which lie inside of the legs, as these, if allowed +to remain, are sure to taint the flesh in cooking. + +The animals are easily caught by setting the traps at the entrance +of their burrows, and carefully covering them with loose earth, +no bait being required. They may also be captured by the aid of +a spring-pole, with noose attached, the pole being bent down and +caught under a notched stick, and the noose being arranged at the +opening of the burrow, see page 43, the Woodchuck in passing in +or out will become entangled in the noose, and in his efforts to +escape the pole will be loosened from the peg, thus lifting the +animal in mid-air. Woodchucks are also sometimes drowned out of +their holes, and the turtle is often put to good use for the purpose +of smoking the animals from their subterranean dwellings. A ball of +wicking saturated with kerosene is attached by a wire to the tail +of the reptile. When the ball is ignited the creature is introduced +into the entrance of the hole, and of course in fleeing from its +fiery pursuer it traverses the full length of the burrow, and as +another matter of course drives out its other occupants, which +are shot or captured as they emerge. + +The woodchunk's skin is generally taken off as described for the +muskrat, and stretched accordingly. + + +THE GOPHER. + +This remarkable little animal somewhat resembles the Mole in its +general appearance and habits. It is also commonly known as the +Canada Pouched Rat, and is principally found west of the Mississippi +and northward. It is a burrowing animal, and like the Mole drives +its subterranean tunnels in all directions, throwing up little +hillocks at regular intervals of from five to twenty feet. Its +body is thick set and clumsy and about ten inches long, and its +Mole-like claws are especially adapted for digging. Its food consists +of roots and vegetables, and its +[Page 206] +long and projecting incisors are powerful agents in cutting the +roots which cross its path in making its burrow. The most striking +characteristic of the animal, and that from which it takes its +name, consists in the large cheek pouches which hang from each +side of the mouth and extend back to to shoulders. They are used as +receptacles of food which the animal hurriedly gathers when above +ground, afterward returning to its burrow to enjoy its feast at its +leisure. It was formerly very commonly and erroneously believed +that the Gopher used its pouches in conveying the earth from its +burrow, and this is generally supposed at the present day, but +it is now known that the animal uses these pockets only for the +conveyance of its food. + +The color of the fur is reddish-brown on the upper parts, fading +to ashy-brown on the abdomen, and the feet are white. + +In making its tunnels, the dirt is brought to the surface, thus +making the little mounds after the manner of the mole. After having +dug its tunnel for several feet the distance becomes so great as +to render this process impossible, and the old hole is carefully +stopped up and a new one made at the newly excavated end of the +tunnel, the animal continuing on in its labors and dumping from +the fresh orifice. These mounds of earth occur at intervals on +the surface of the ground, and although no hole can be discovered +beneath them, they nevertheless serve to indicate the track of +the burrow, which lies several inches beneath. + +The Gopher is a great pest to western cultivators, and by its root +feeding and undermining propensities does extensive injury to crops +generally. They may be successfully trapped in the following manner: +Strike a line between the two most recent earth mounds, and midway +between them remove a piece of the sod. By the aid of a trowel +or a sharp stick the burrow may now be reached. Insert your hand +in the tunnel and enlarge the interior sufficiently to allow the +introduction of No. (0) steel trap. Set the trap flatly in the +bottom of the burrow, and then laying a piece of shingle or a few +sticks across the excavation replace the sod. Several traps may +be thus set in the burrows at considerable distances apart, and a +number of the animals thus taken. The traps are sometimes inserted +in the burrows from the hillocks, by first finding the hole and +then enlarging it by inserting the arm and digging with the hand +beneath. The former method, however, is preferable. + +The skin of the Gopher may be pulled off the body either by cutting +up the hind less, as described in reference to the Fox, +[Page 207] +or by making the incision from the lower jaw down the neck, as decided +for the muskrat, a simple board stretcher being used. + + +THE MOLE. + +Of all the mammalia the Mole is entitled to take the first place +in the list of burrowers. This extraordinary creature does not +merely dig tunnels in the ground and sit at the end of them, as is +the case with many animals, but it forms a complicated subterranean +dwelling place with chambers, passages and other arrangements of +wonderful completeness. It has regular roads leading to its feeding +grounds; establishes a system of communication as elaborate as +that of a modern railway, or, to be more correct, as that of the +subterranean network of the sewers of a city. It is an animal of +varied accomplishments. It can run tolerably fast, it can fight +like a bull-dog, it can capture prey under or above ground, it can +swim fearlessly, and it can sink wells for the purpose of quenching +its thirst. Take the mole out of its proper sphere, and it is awkward +and clumsy as the sloth when placed on level ground, or the seal +when brought ashore. Replace it in the familiar earth and it becomes +a different being, full of life and energy, and actuated by a fiery +activity which seems quite inconsistent with its dull aspect and +seemingly inert form. + +We all know that the mole burrows under the ground, raising at +intervals the little hillocks or "mole hills" with which we are +so familiar; but most of us little know the extent or variety of +its tunnels, or that the animal works on a regular system and does +not burrow here and there at random. How it manages to form its +burrows in such admirably straight lines, is not an easy problem, +because it is always done in black darkness, and we know of nothing +which can act as a guide to the animal. As for ourselves and other +eye-possessing creatures, the feat of walking in a straight line +with closed eyelids is almost an impossibility, and every swimmer +knows the difficulty of keeping a straight course under water, +even with the use of his eyes. + +The ordinary mole hills, so plentiful in our fields, present nothing +particularly worthy of notice. They are merely the shafts through +which the quadruped miner ejects the material which it has scooped +out, as it drives its many tunnels through the soil, and if they +be carefully opened after the rain has consolidated the heap of +loose material, nothing more will be discovered than a simple hole +leading into the tunnel. But let us +[Page 208] +strike into one of the large tunnels, as any mole catcher will +teach us, and follow it up to the real abode of the animal. The +hill under which this domicile is hidden, is of considerable size, +but is not very conspicuous, being always placed under the shelter of +a tree, shrub, or a suitable bank, and would scarcely be discovered +but by a practiced eye. The subterranean abode within the hillock +is so remarkable that it involuntarily reminds the observer of the +well-known "maze," which has puzzled the earliest years of youth +throughout many generations. The central apartment, or "keep," +if we so term it, is a nearly spherical chamber, the roof of which +is almost on a level with the earth around the hill, and therefore +situated at a considerable depth from the apex of the heap. Around +this keep are driven two circular passages or galleries, one just +level with the ceiling and the other at some height above. Five +short descending passages connect the galleries with each other, +but the only entrance into the keep is from the upper gallery, +out of which three passages lead into the ceiling of the keep. It +will be seen therefore that when the mole enters the house from +one of its tunnels, it has first to get into the lower gallery +to ascend thence into the upper gallery, and so descend into the +central chamber. There is, however, another entrance into the keep +from below. A passage dips downward from the centre of the chamber, +and then, taking a curve upwards, opens into one of the larger burrows +or high roads, as they may be fitly termed. It is a noteworthy +fact that the high roads, of which there are several radiating in +different directions, never open into the gallery opposite one +of the entrances into the upper gallery. The mole therefore is +obliged to go to the right or left as soon as it enters the domicile +before it can find a passage to the upper gallery. By the continual +pressure of the moles upon the walls of the passages and roof of +the central chamber, they become quite smooth, hard, and polished, +so that the earth will not fall in, even after the severest storm. + +The use of so complicated a series of cells and passages is extremely +doubtful, and our total ignorance of the subject affords another +reason why the habits of this wonderful animal should be better +studied. + +About the middle of June the moles begin to fall in love, and are +as furious in their attachments as in all other phases of their +nature. At that time two male moles cannot meet without mutual +jealousy, and they straightway begin to fight, scratching, tearing, +and biting with such insane fury that they seem unconscious +[Page 209] +of anything except the heat of battle. Indeed the whole life of +the mole is one of fury, and he eats like a starving tiger, tearing +and rending his prey with claws and teeth, and crunching audibly +the body of the worm between the sharp points. Magnify the mole +to the size of the lion and you will have a beast more terrible +than the world has yet seen. Though nearly blind, and therefore +incapable of following its prey by sight, it would be active beyond +conception, springing this way and that way as it goes along, leaping +with lightness and quickness upon any animal which it meets, rending +it in pieces in a moment, thrusting its blood-thirsty snout into +the body of its victim, eating the still warm and bleeding flesh, +and instantly searching for fresh prey. Such a creature would, +without the least hesitation, devour a serpent twenty feet in length, +and so terrible would be its voracity that it would eat twenty or +thirty of such snakes in a day as easily as it devours the same +number of worms. With one grasp of its teeth and one stroke of +its claws, it could tear an ox asunder; and if it should happen +to enter a fold of sheep or enclosure of cattle, it would kill +them all for the mere lust of slaughter. Let, then, two of such +animals meet in combat, and how terrific would be the battle! Fear +is a feeling of which the mole seems to be utterly unconscious, +and, when fighting with one of its own species, he gives his whole +energies to the destruction of his opponent without seeming to heed +the injuries inflicted upon himself. From the foregoing sketch +the reader will be able to estimate the extraordinary energies of +this animal, as well as the wonderful instincts with which it is +endowed. + +The fur of the mole is noted for its clean, velvety aspect; and +that an animal should be able to pass unsoiled through earth of +all textures is a really remarkable phenomenon. It is partly to +be explained by the character of the hair, and partly by that of +the skin. The hair of the mole is peculiar on account of its want +of "set." The tops of the hairs do not point in any particular +direction, but may be pressed equally forward or backward or to +either side. The microscope reveals the cause of this peculiarity. +The hair is extremely fine at its exit from the skin, and gradually +increases in thickness until it reaches its full width when it +again diminishes. This alternation occurs several times in each +hair, and gives the peculiar velvet-like texture with which we +are all so familiar. There is scarcely any coloring matter in the +slender portion of the hair, and the beautiful changeable coppery +[Page 210] +hues of the fur is owing to this structure. Another reason for the +cleanliness of the fur is the strong, though membranous muscle beneath +the skin. While the mole is engaged in travelling, particularly in +loose earth, the soil for a time clings to the fur; but at tolerably +regular intervals the creature gives the skin a sharp and powerful +shake, which throws off at once the whole of the mould that has +collected upon the fur. Some amount of dust still remains, for, +however clean the fur of a mole may seem to be, if the creature +be placed for an hour in water, a considerable quantity of earth +will be dissolved away and fall to the bottom of the vessel. The +improvement in the fur after being well washed with soft tepid +water and soap, is almost incredible. Many persons have been struck +with such admiration for the fur of the mole, that they have been +desirous of having a number of the skins collected and made into a +waist-coat. This certainly can be done, but the garment thus made +is so very hot that it can only be worn in winter. Such garments +are very expensive, and owing to the tender quality of the skin, +possess but little lasting powers. There is also a wonderfully +strong smell about the mole; so strong, indeed, that dogs will +sometimes point at moles instead of game, to the great disgust +of their masters. This odor adheres obstinately to the skin, and +even in furs which have been dried for more than ten years, this +peculiar savor has been noticed. + +We have given much space to the mole, not particularly on account +of its particular usefulness to the trapper, but because of its +many claims to our notice. If the creature were a rare and costly +inhabitant of some distant land, how deep would be the interest +which it would incite. But because it is a creature of our country, +and to be found in every field, there are but few who care to examine +a creature so common, or who experience any feelings save those +of disgust when they see a mole making its way over the ground +in search of a soft spot in which to burrow. + +In many localities this interesting animal exists in such numbers +as to become a positive nuisance, and the invention of a trap which +would effectually curtail their depredations has been a problem +to many a vexed and puzzled farmer. + +Mole traps of various kinds have found their way into our agricultural +papers, but none has proved more effectual than the one we describe +on page 119. An arrangement of the _figure four_, page 107, is +also sometimes employed with good success. In this case the bait +stick crosses the upright stick close to the ground, and rests over +[Page 211] +the burrow of the mole, the earth being previously pressed down to +the surrounding level. The stone should be narrow and very heavy, and +of course no bait is required. + +The pieces should be set carefully, and so adjusted that the lifting +of the soil beneath the stick as the mole forces its way through +the compressed earth will dislodge the bait stick and let down +the stone with its crushing weight. + +Another method consists in embedding a deep flower pot in one of +the main tunnels of the animal, and carefully replacing the soil +above. The mole in traversing his burrow thus falls into the pit +and is effectually captured. This is a very ingenious mode of taking +the animal, and rewarded its inventor with seven moles on the first +night of trial. + +There are a number of other devices said to work excellently, but +the above we believe to be the most effectual of all. + +There are several species of American moles, the star-nosed variety +being familiar to most of us. The most common moles are the shrew +moles, with pointed noses. The silver mole is a large species, of +a changeable silvery color, found on the Western prairies. The +Oregon mole is nearly black, with purplish or brownish reflections. + +The most beautiful of all the moles is found at the Cape of Good +Hope. It is of about the size of the ordinary American species, and +its soft fur glistens with brilliant green and golden reflections. +The fur of this species is probably the most wonderful and beautiful +in the whole animal kingdom. + + +SQUIRRELS. + +There are many species of squirrels found in the United States, +but their fur is of little value, and of trifling importance in +the fur trade; the squirrel fur of our markets being that of a +small grey European variety. Squirrels, as a class, possess much +the same peculiarities and habits. Their claws are particularly +adapted for life among the trees; their tails are long and bushy, +covering over the backs of the animals when in a sitting posture. +They are all lithe and quick of movement, and their senses of sight +and hearing are especially keen. They are constantly on the alert, +and are full of artifice when pursued. Their food consists chiefly +of nuts, fruits, and grain, but when pushed by hunger, there is +no telling what they will not eat. They generally provide for the +[Page 212] +winter months by laying up a store of the foregoing provisions, +either in holes in trees or interstices in the bark, or in cavities +under ground. The shag-bark hickory offers an especial inducement to +these provident creatures in the numerous crevices and cracks +throughout the bark. It is not an uncommon thing to find whole +handfuls of nuts carefully packed away in one of these cracks, and +a sharp stroke with an ax in the trunk of one of these trees will +often dislodge numbers of the nuts. The writer has many a time gone +"nutting" in this way in the middle of winter with good success. The +nests of squirrels are generally built in trees, either in a crotch +between the branches or in some deserted woodpecker's hole. Some +species live in burrows in the ground, and those individuals who +are lucky enough to be in the neighborhood of a barn often make their +abode therein, taking their regular three meals a day from the granary. +In many localities these animals thus become a perfect pest to the +farmers, and their destruction becomes a matter of urgent necessity. + +[Illustration] + +Squirrels, although resembling each other much as regards +[Page 213] +their general habits, differ considerably in the size and color +of the different species. + +The principal varieties found on our continent are:-- + +The large grey squirrel, which is common in the Eastern and Middle +States, and which is about two feet in length, including the tail. +The common red squirrel, or chicaree, smaller than the foregoing, +and found more or less all through the United States. The black +squirrel, which is about the size of the grey, and found in the +north-eastern part of the United States, near the great lakes. In +the Southern States there is a variety known as the fox squirrel, +about the size of the red squirrel, and quite variable in color. +The Middle States furnishes a species called the cat squirrel, +rather smaller than the preceding. Its tail is very broad, and its +color varies from very light to very dark grey. + +The ground squirrel, or chipmuck, with its prettily striped sides, +is common to most of our readers, its general color being red and +the stripes being black and white. + +Another burrowing species, known as the Oregon or downy squirrel, +is found in the Territory from which it takes its name, and also +northward in British America. In size it resembles the chipmuck, +and its color is light red above, pure white beneath, and silver +grey at the sides. + +The beautiful silky variety, known as the flying squirrel, with +its grey chinchilla-like fur and loose skin, is found throughout +the United States east of the Mississippi. + +Louisiana and Texas furnish the golden-bellied squirrel, which is +about twenty inches in length, with tail golden yellow beneath, +and golden grey above. The sooty squirrel is also found in this +locality, being about the same size as the last mentioned, and +black above and brownish red beneath. + +There are other varieties in California known as the woolly, +soft-haired, and weasel squirrels; and in the Western States we +find the large red-tailed squirrels, which are about the size of +the large grey variety of the Eastern and Middle States. + +Squirrels, as a tribe, are much sought for as pets, and most of +the species are easily tamed. + +Box traps of various kinds are used in taking them alive. The varieties +on pages 103, 106 and 110 are especially adapted for this purpose, +and should be set either in the trees or on the ground, and baited +with an apple, a portion of an ear of corn, or of whatever the +animal is particularly fond. + +When the animals exist in such numbers as to become a destructive +[Page 214] +nuisance to the farm, the small-sized steel trap, No. 0, arranged +with bait hung above it, will work to good advantage. Twitch-ups +are also successful, and we might also recommend the traps on pages +107, 116 and 128 as worthy of trial when the animal is not desired +to be captured alive. + +Squirrels may be skinned either by ripping up the belly, or in a +whole piece, as described in regard to the fox. + +We pause before going further into the mysteries of trapping in +connection with the animals which we are about to consider, as +they are generally exempt from the wiles of the trapper's art, +coming more properly in the field of the hunter or sportsman. The +idea of trapping a deer, for instance, seems barbarous indeed; +but are not all the ways of deceiving and killing these splendid +animals equally so? Are not the various strategies and cunning +devices of the sportsman, by which these noble creatures are decoyed +and murdered, equally open to the same objection? As far as barbarity +goes, there is to us but little choice between the two methods; +and, generally speaking, we decry them both, and most especially +do not wish to be understood as encouraging the trapping of these +animals, except where all other means have failed, and in cases +where their capture becomes in a measure a matter of necessity. +This is often the case in the experience of professional trappers. +The life of the trapper during the trapping season is spent almost +entirely in the wilderness, often many miles from any human habitation; +and at times he is solely dependent upon his gun or trap for his +necessary food. + +Sometimes in a dry season, when the leaves and twigs crackle under +foot, the rifle is as good as useless, for it becomes impossible to +approach a deer within shooting range. And there are other times +when ammunition is exhausted, and the trapper is thus forced to rely +only on his traps for his supply of food. In such circumstances, +the necessities of the trapper are paramount, and the trapping of +deer, in such straits, as the most desirable food is rather to +be recommended than condemned. The same remarks also in a measure +apply to the moose and prong-horn antelope, as well as to several +other animals hereinafter mentioned, as they are generally considered +more in the light of the hunter's than the trapper's game. + + +[Page 215] +THE DEER. + +There are upwards of eight varieties of this animal which inhabit +North America. The common red or Virginian deer is found throughout +the United States. The stag or Wapiti deer is now chiefly confined +to the country west of the Mississippi and northward to British +America. The moose we shall speak of hereafter. The Rocky Mountain +mule deer, and the long-tailed deer of the same locality, are two +more species, and there are also the black-tailed deer and the +reindeer, the latter of which is a native of British America. The +scope of our volume will not of course admit of detailed directions +for trapping each variety, but, as the habits of all the species are +in a measure similar, our remarks will apply to them in general, +and particularly to the red or Virginian deer, which is the most +important to American trappers. + +The trap for taking deer should be large, strong, and covered with +spikes. The Newhouse (No. 4) is particularly adapted, and is especially +arranged for this purpose. + +When the path of the deer is discovered on the border of a stream +or lake, the trap should be set beneath the surface of the water, +near the tracks of the animal, and covered by a handful of dried +grass thrown upon it. When thus set, it may either be left to run +its chances, or success, further insured by the following precaution: +In winter the principal food of the deer consists of the twigs, +buds, and bark of various forest trees, and particularly those +of the basswood and maple. In the season when the traps are set +as above described, a most tempting bait is furnished by a large +branch of either of those trees, freshly cut, and laid near the +trap. The deer in feeding are thus almost sure to be captured. +There are certain glands which are located on the inner side of the +hind legs of the deer, and which emit a very strong and peculiar +odor. The scent of these glands seems to attract the animal, and +for this reason are cut out and used by trappers as a scent-bait. +In the case already described, it is well to rub the glands on +the twigs of the trees, thus serving as an additional attraction +to the bait. There is still another method of trapping deer, which +is commonly employed in the winter time. The trap is sunk in the +snow at the foot of a tree, and the bait, consisting of an ear +of corn or a few beards of other grain, is fastened to the tree, +above the trap, three or more feet from the ground. The animal, in +reaching for the bait, places its foot in the trap and is secured. + +[Page 216] +When first caught, the deer becomes very wild and violent; so much +so that if the trap were chained or retarded by a heavy clog, the +chain, or even the trap itself, would most likely be broken. The +weight of a trap of this size is generally a sufficient impediment, +no clog, or at best a very light one, being required. The first +frantic plunge being over, the entrapped creature immediately yields +and lies down upon the ground, and is always to be found within +a few rods of where the trap was first sprung upon him. During +the winter the traps may also be set in the snow, using the same +bait already described. It is a common method to fell a small tree +for the purpose, setting the traps beneath the snow, around the +top branches. The deer, in browsing in the tender twigs or buds, +are almost certain to be captured. Dead-falls of different kinds +are sometimes used in trapping the deer, with good success; using +the scent bait already described, together with the other bait. +The food of the deer during the summer consists of nuts, fruits, +acorns, grass, berries, and water plants, and when in convenient +neighborhood of cultivated lands, they do not hesitate to make +a meal from the farmer's turnips, cabbages, and grain. + +As we have said, the winter food consists chiefly of the twigs of +trees. When the snow is deep the deer form what are called "yards," +about such trees as they particularly select for their browsing. +These yards are made simply by tramping down the snow, and large +numbers of the deer are often thus found together. As the supply +of food is consumed, the yard is enlarged, so as to enclose other +trees for browsing, and where deep snows abound throughout the +winter, these enclosures often become quite extensive in area. +Panthers, wolves, and wolverines take especial advantage of these, +and easily secure their victims. By wolves especially entire herds +of deer are thus destroyed, and whole yards depopulated in a single +night. Panthers secrete themselves in the trees above the boughs +overhanging the "yards," and, with stealthy movements, approach and +pounce upon their unsuspecting prey. The blood-thirsty wolverine +secretes himself in the nooks and by-ways to spring upon its tawny +victim unawares. These, together with man, form the principal foes +of the deer, and we can truthfully assert that the _hunter_ is +much more its enemy than the _trapper_. + +As we do not wish to encourage the wanton trapping of this noble +creature, it would perhaps be well for us to devote also few words +in describing the various modes of hunting the animal, +[Page 217] +adopted by the "professional sportsmen" throughout the land. The +most common method is that called "still hunting," most generally +pursued in winter. The hunter is shod with deer-skin or other soft +sandals, and starts out with his rifle and ammunition. Finding the +fresh track of the deer, he cautiously and noiselessly follows up +the trail, keeping a sharp lookout ahead. A practised deer-hunter +becomes very skillful and accurate, and the animal is nearly always +tracked to discovery, when he is shot. The deer's sense of smell is +extremely acute, and, when in shooting range, it is very necessary +to approach them in the face of the wind, the direction of which +may be easily determined by holding the finger in the mouth for a +moment, afterward pointing it upward toward the sky. The cool side +of the finger will indicate the direction from which the wind blows, +and toward that direction the deer should always be approached, or +as far toward that direction as possible. It will sometimes happen +that the hunter will surprise the buck, doe, and fawn together. In +order to secure the three, shoot the doe first. The buck and fawn +will remain near the spot. The buck should next be shot, and then +the fawn, the charge being aimed at the breast. Never approach a +wounded deer without reloading the gun, as he is often more frightened +than hurt, and is likely to start and run away, unless prevented +by another shot. During the snow season, deer are always watchful +of their back track. They are generally at rest during the day, +starting out late in the afternoon on their usual ramblings, which +they continue through the night. During the dark hours they love +to resort to the water side in quest of aquatic plants, and are +here often taken by hunters, many of which consider "night hunting" +the favorite and most exciting sport. It is pursued in the following +manner: The hunter requires a boat or canoe, page 261, a good rifle, +and a lamp. The lamp, with a screen or reflector behind it, is +placed at the bow of the boat. One hunter takes the oar, and, with +noiseless paddle, propels or sculls the boat from the stem. The +armed hunter crouches behind the light, with the muzzle of his +rifle projecting beyond the screen sufficiently to easily show the +forward sight on the tip of the barrel. A dark lantern is sometimes +used as a light. The eyes of the deer shine very perceptibly at +night, and his presence on the banks is thus easily detected. If +he is noiselessly approached, he will remain transfixed by the +effect of the light from the boat, and he may be neared even to a +very close range, when he is easily despatched. Hundreds of deer +[Page 218] +are thus taken during the summer and autumn. Deer are also chased +by dogs until they are forced to take refuge in the nearest rivers +or lakes, when the hunter in his canoe overtakes and shoots them. +Another method is frequently employed in the hunting of the deer. +These animals are very fond of salt, and with it they are often +decoyed to a spot where the hunter lies in wait for them. These +places are called "deer licks," or salting places, and can be made +as follows: Select a locality where deer are known to frequent, and +place a handful of salt either on a smooth spot of ground or in +the hollow of a log. A section of a log is sometimes slightly dug +out at one end and the other inserted in the earth, the salt being +placed in the hollow. The hunter secretes himself in a neighboring +tree, sometimes erecting a bench or scaffolding for comfort, and, +provided with gun and ammunition, he awaits the coming of the deer. +Hunters say that a deer seldom looks higher than his head, and +that a sportsman on one of these scaffoldings, even though he is +clumsy in his movements, is seldom noticed by the animal. + +The salt lick is also utilized for night hunting. A head-lantern +is generally required. This can be made in the following manner: +Construct a cylinder of birch bark or paste-board or any like substance, +ten inches in height, and of sufficient size to fit closely on +the head. A circular partition should next be firmly inserted at +about the middle of the cylinder, and the centre of the partition +should be provided with a socket for the reception of a candle. +On this end of the cylinder a piece should now be cut to admit +of the passage of light from the candle on that side. Having this +fire-hat at hand wait patiently for the game. When a significant +noise is heard light the candle and place the cylinder on the head, +with the open cut in front, thus directing the light toward the +ground. As the deer approaches, his fiery eyes will easily be seen, +and the light from the candle will shine sufficiently on the rifle +to clearly reveal the sights and admit of a sure aim. There is +still another method of night hunting by the salt lick. The rifle +is aimed directly at the salted spot, and thus firmly fixed--this +preparation being made in the daytime. When night approaches, the +hunter finds a piece of phosphorescent wood or "fox fire," and places +it on the ground, at a point which he has previously determined +to be on a direct line of the aim of his gun. The "fox fire" is +plainly seen from the tree, and as soon as it is darkened he knows +that it is obscured by the deer, and he pulls the trigger and kills +his game. + +Deer are hunted at all seasons of the year, _but ought not_ to +[Page 219] +be hunted during the summer. The sport legitimately begins in September, +when the buck begins to harden his horns, and when his flesh is +in its best condition for food. In October the deer is more shy, +and during this month and after, the sport is at its height. The +deer should be skinned from an incision down the belly, and the +hide spread on a hoop stretcher, page 275. + + +THE MOOSE. + +We have already given so much space to the hunting of the deer +that we shall be obliged to cut short our remarks on the Moose, +particularly as it is a representative of the same family. This +animal is the largest of the Deer tribe, being seven or eight feet +in height and often weighing over fifteen hundred pounds. It is +supplied with immense flat spreading horns, sometimes expanding to +the distance of six feet between the tips. It is found in Maine, +Oregon and Washington Territories, and in the neighborhood of the +great lakes, and inhabits the regions as far +[Page 220] +north as the Arctic Sea. Its color is yellowish brown. The fur is +thicker in winter than summer, and on the neck of the animal the +hair is very coarse and hangs in an immense tuft of over a foot +in length. The flesh is most excellent food and is much esteemed +by trappers. The habits of the moose are in most respects identical +with the deer, already described, and like them they form "yards" +during the winter season. + +[Illustration] + +In the North the moose is hunted on snow-shoes by the natives, +and in summer they are shot like the deer. They are often very +dangerous and terrible creatures to hunt, and the utmost care and +skill, as described in regard to the deer, is required on the part +of the hunter in order to avoid detection through the exquisite +sense of smell which the animal possesses. The moose is easily +trapped. The Newhouse, No. 6, is especially adapted for the purpose, +and it should be chained to a clog of stone or wood of over fifty +pounds in weight. Set the trap in the "yard," or beneath the snow +where the moose frequents, or in the summer, or fall seasons, as +described for the deer, using the same methods in regard to baiting, +etc. + +Skin after the manner of cattle, and stretch the hide on a +hoop-spreader. Page 275. + + +ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP. + +These creatures are natives of the entire range of the Rocky Mountains, +and are especially prized on account of the superior quality of +their flesh as food. They are much larger and more powerful than +the domestic sheep, and the ram is provided with enormous curved +horns. The wool of the animal is intermixed with coarse grey hairs, +and the general appearance of the fur is russet grey, with the +exception of the rump and under parts, which are of a dirty white +color. The animal is generally very wary and retiring, and inhabits +the most secluded and inaccessible mountain regions and rocky cliffs. + +They are easily captured by the steel trap (No. 5) set in their +haunts. The dead-fall is also used in some instances. Remove the +skin as described for the deer. + + +THE BUFFALO. + +The Buffaloes or Bison of the Western plains is too well known +to need description. They travel in migrating herds of thousands, +and are found from Texas to British America. Their food +[Page 221] +consists chiefly of grass, of which the "Buffalo grass" is their +great delight. They graze and travel through the day and rest by +night. They are more the game of the hunter than the trapper, although +the largest side Newhouse would effectually secure one of the animals. +The Buffalo is generally hunted on horseback, the usual method +being that of stealing into the drove while grazing, always moving +against the wind in order to avoid being scented. The flesh is +palatable and by many much relished. The Buffalo skins of commerce +are furnished by the cows. The bull skins are almost devoid of fur +on the hinder parts, the hair being confined to the huge heavy +mass on the hump and mane. Skin the animal as described for the +Moose. + + +THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE. + +This sole American representative of the Antelope tribe we believe +is seldom trapped; but as it is a well-known animal on the Western +plains, a short mention of it is required here. In general shape +this creature bears considerable resemblance to the deer, the form of +the horn being its chief peculiarity, each one of which is provided +with a single prong, from which the animal takes its name, of Prong +Horn. The color of the body is brownish-yellow, with the exception +of the rump and belly which are almost white. The Antelopes generally +travel in herds, and are much hunted by the Indians who surround +them and destroy them with heavy clubs. Like the deer, their sense +of smell is especially keen and the same caution is required in +hunting them. In size they are about the same as the Virginian +Deer. They are wonderfully graceful in all their movements, and +are even more fleet of foot than the deer. These Antelopes inhabit +the Western Prairies and wooded borders from New Mexico northward, +and their flesh is much esteemed as an article of diet. They may +be caught in their feeding places, as recommended for the deer, +using the same sized trap. + +The dead fall is also efficacious in their capture, and they are +also sometimes taken in large pit-falls covered over with light +sticks and leaves, to resemble the natural surroundings. On this +false covering, the bait, consisting of green corn or other vegetables, +is strewn and a high wall of logs or stones is erected around it, +in order that the animal will be obliged to _jump_ slightly in +order to reach the bait. + +Remove the hide as recommended for the deer. + + +[Page 222] +SHOOTING AND POISONING. + +Until the introduction of the steel-trap, shooting was a common +method of taking fur bearing animals, and even to the present day +it is quite prevalent in some localities. Anyone who has had any +experience with the fur trade must have learned that furs which +are "shot," are much affected in value. Some furriers will not +purchase such skins at any price; and they never meet with any +but a very low offer. "Trapped furs" and "shot furs" are terms of +considerable significance in the fur trade, and anyone who wishes +to realize from a profitable sale of his furs, should use his gun +as little as possible. A shot grazing through the fur of an animal +cuts the hairs as if with a knife, and a single such furrow is +often enough to spoil a skin. It is these oblique grazing shots +which particularly damage the fur, and an animal killed with a +_shot gun_ is seldom worth skinning for the value of its pelt. If +firearms are used, the rifle is preferable. If the animal chances +to be hit broadside or by a direct penetrating bullet, the two +small holes thus made may not particularly effect the value of its +skin, although even then the chances are rather slight. + +Trapped furs are of the greatest value. + +The use of poison is objectionable as a means of capture in animals +especially desired for their fur. Strychnine is the substance generally +employed, and unless its victim is skinned _immediately_ after +death the pelt becomes considerably injured by the absorption of +the poison. It has the effect of loosening the fur and the hair +sheds easily. + +The poison is principally used in the capture of Wolves and animals +considered in the light of vermin. For a wolf or fox, the poison +is mixed with lard or tallow and spread on pieces of meat, or a +small amount of the powder is inclosed in an incision in the bait. +The amount sufficient for a single dose may be easily held on the +point of a knife blade, and death ensues in a a very few moments +after the bait is taken. For a Bear the dose should be a half +thimbleful, and it should be deposited in the centre of a piece +of honey comb, the cells being emptied of their honey for that +purpose. + +Other animals may be taken by proportionate quantities of the poison, +but for general purposes we discourage its use. + + + + +[Page 223] +[Illustration: THE CAMPAIGN.] + + + + +[Page 225] +BOOK VII. + +CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS. + +[Illustration: I]t has been the author's object in the preparation +of this book not simply to content the reader with a mere superficial +knowledge of so-called "Amateur trapping," but to carry him further +into the art professionally considered, and for this reason we +present in the following chapter a full catalogue of the trapper's +outfit, containing detailed descriptions of all the necessaries for +a most thorough campaign, including boats and canoes, log cabins, +shanties and tents, snow shoes and camp furniture of all kinds, +together with numerous and valuable hints on trapper's food. + + +PLAN OF CAMPAIGN. + +The first thing to be considered in reference to a campaign is +the selection of a trapping ground, and it is always desirable +to choose a locality where travel by water can be resorted to as +much as possible. Otter, mink, beaver and muskrat are among the +most desirable game for the trapper, and as these are all amphibious +animals, a watered district is therefore the best on all accounts. +Lakes, ponds, and streams, bordered by wild woods, form the best +possible grounds for general trapping, and the mountain lakes of the +Adirondacks and Alleghenies, and all similar regions are especially +desirable on this account. Almost any wild country, intersected +with streams, lakes, and rivers, is apt to abound with game, and +some trappers confine their labors to the borders of a single lake, +and adjoining forest. This plan is especially to be recommended to +the amateur, as much of the travelling to and fro can be done by boat, +[Page 226] +the labor being thus much lightened. Having decided upon the seat +of operations, the young trappers should immediately set to work +at building their shanties and boats. The home shanty is of the +greatest importance, and should be constructed first. Select some +flat bit of land near the water and clear it of brush wood, or +other rubbish and proceed to work as described on page 242. A good +axe is the only tool required by an experienced trapper in the +construction of such a shanty. Should the trapping lines be very +extensive, additional _bark_ shanties, page 245, will require to +be made at intervals along the line, for sleeping stations and +shelters in case of storm. The professional trapper generally attends +to the building of his shanties and boats before the trapping season +commences, and thus has everything in readiness for his campaign. +If in a birch bark country the Indian canoe, page 260, is the most +desirable craft, on account of its lightness and portability. The +dug-out, or bateau, described on page 259, will also do good service. + +The trapping season begins in October, and everything should be +in readiness at this time, so that the trappers may devote all +their time strictly to business. + +The route of the professional trapper often extends over fifty +miles, and the number and weight of traps and provisions which +these rough-and-ready individuals often carry as personal luggage +is most astounding. Fifty or sixty pounds apiece is considered a +_fair_ burden, and they deem no one a fit physical subject for a +campaign who cannot at least manage thirty pounds with comparative +ease. The number of the trapping party generally consists of from +two to four. A few days prior to the opening of the trapping season, +the party start out, laden with their burden of traps and provisions, +and deposit them at intervals along the line, the provisions being +mainly kept in the "home shanty." Several trips may be necessary to +complete these preparations, unless the trapping ground is readily +accessible by wagon or boat, in which case the transportation is +much easier. + +The "home shanty" is generally built only when the trapping grounds +are far in the wilderness, miles away from civilization. If the +line extends from the outskirts of some town or village, such a +hut may be dispensed with. It is used principally as a storehouse +for furs, provisions, ammunition, tools, and other valuables, and +also serves as a point of rendezvous, or a home, for the trappers, +one of the number being generally left in charge to "keep shanty" +while his companions are on their tramps in search of game. If +desired, a boy may be taken +[Page 227] +along for this especial purpose. In every case, some such guardian +is very necessary, and particularly in wild districts, abounding in +wolves and bears, as these animals have an odd trick of breaking +into unguarded shanties, and often make sad havoc with its stores. +Steel traps are almost exclusively used by the professional trapper, +and the supply for a single campaign will often exceed one hundred +and fifty. Many of the traps described in the early part of this +work are also used, and for the amateur who has not the ready cash +to layout in steel traps, are decidedly to be recommended and will +be found very efficient. From thirty to fifty traps would be a fair +number for an ordinary amateur trapping season, and the probable +cost of such a lot would be from $15 to $25. The sizes of the traps +will depend upon the game sought, No. 2-1/2 being a good average. +With this supply, relying somewhat on dead-falls, twitch-ups, and +the various other devices described in our early pages, we can +guarantee lively sport, of course, presuming that good judgment has +been used in the selection of a trapping ground. In later articles, +under the proper headings, we give full details concerning food +and cooking utensils, shelter and bedding, as well as many other +requisites for the trapper's comfort. To complete the list he should +provide himself with a good sharp axe, and hatchet, and if the +log canoe is in anticipation he will also require the other tools +mentioned on page 259 an oilstone being carried in order to keep the +various tools in good repair; an auger, saw, and some large nails are +also to be desired, and a small parcel containing needles, thread, +pins, scissors, etc., will be found indispensable. "Cleanliness is +next to Godliness," and there are no more luxurious necessities +in camp life than a piece of soap and a clean towel. For light it +is advisable to carry a supply of candles, or a lantern with a can +of oil. The latter is, of course, more bulky, and for a campaign +wholly on foot is hardly to be recommended on this account. + +Each trapper should be provided with a stout jack-knife, pocket-compass, +and a supply of matches, a number of these being always carried on +the person to provide for the emergencies to which the hunter is +always subject. + +One of the party should carry a double-barrelled shot-gun and another +a rifle, or both may be combined in a single weapon. A revolver +is also a desirable acquisition. Purified neats-foot oil should +be used on the fire-arms, and in lieu of this, some trappers use +the melted fat of the grouse for the same purpose. A good supply +of fishing tackle is almost indispensable, and +[Page 228] +with these valuable equipments the young trapper may defy the wilderness +with all its hazards. With his traps, gun and rod, together with his +store of provisions, he may look forward to a larder well stocked +and may calculate on an appetite which will do it justice. + +The list of portable provisions and cooking utensils best adapted +for a campaign are given under their proper title, and will be +found to cover all the wants of the most fastidious. The stove +is the most cumbersome article, but trappers generally dispense +with its use altogether, looking at it rather in the light of a +luxury as well as a nuisance. The open camp fire will answer every +purpose, both for cooking and for comfort in cold weather. + +For clothing it is desirable to carry at least two suits, in order +to have a "change." They should be of woolen, and from the _hunter's_ +point of view, should be of a sombre shade, so as to be as inconspicuous +as possible. The use of high-top boots is to be deprecated, as they +are tiresome and unwieldy. Short boots, with thick, iron-pegged +soles, are generally preferred by trappers, and in order to render +them soft, pliable, and waterproof they may be soaked or smeared +with a hot mixture, composed of one part rosin, two parts beeswax, +and three parts tallow. Simple tallow, or even the fat of the deer, +is sometimes used for the same purpose. + +Calculating on a successful campaign, a supply of board-stretchers, +page 273, will be needed for the curing of the skins, and if our +adventurous enthusiasts should extend their experience along into +the winter, the toboggan and snow-shoes will come into good use +for convenient winter travel. + +The trapping season properly commences in October and ends in April. +The pelts of fur bearing animals are in their best condition during +this time, and in the winter are in their prime. The various modes +of setting and baiting traps for all our leading animals are clearly +set forth in another part of this volume. And in the accompanying +engravings will be found life like representations of each species. + +In a trapping campaign it is an excellent plan to select a central +point for the home shanty, extending the trapping lines in several +directions therefrom, following the borders of the lakes or streams +for the otter, beaver, mink and muskrat; and setting a few lines +inland for the capture of martens, racoons, foxes, etc. + +For an amateur campaign this a most excellent and convenient +[Page 229] +arrangement, the lines may extend all the way from one to five miles +each, and connect at their edges, the whole ground plan resembling the +form of a wheel, the shanty corresponding to the hub, and the trapping +lines the spokes, the tire representing the circuit connecting the +various lines. Where the latter extend over many miles it is well +to construct bark shanties at the limits. Let each trapper take +a certain "spoke," and follow it to its terminus, returning on the +adjacent line. On his arrival at the shanty he should immediately +set to work skinning the animals taken, and stretching their furs. +Full directions for skinning the various game are given under their +respective titles, and the curing of skins is treated in detail +in another chapter of this work. We also present a table of the +comparative values of the various American furs at the present +date of publication. Of course these values are constantly varying, +but the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values +of common and scarce furs. Great care should always be used in +removing the skins from the various animals, as the final value +of the fur much depends upon this. They should not be removed from +the stretchers until perfectly dry, and should then be laid in a +cool, airy place. When near a village or settlement it is advisable +to send "into town" every few days with a batch of furs for safe +keeping, and particularly so when the skins are valuable, and in +cases where the home shanty is left unguarded. The value of prime +otter or mink pelt is a matter of no small importance, and a good +trapping ground furnishes a rare field for light fingered prowlers +who are well posted on the market price of raw furs, and who are +constantly on the lookout for such prizes, either in the shape +of the prepared skin, or on the back of the live animal. These +"trap robbers," or poachers, are the pests of trappers, and many +have learned from dear experience the advisability of placing their +choice furs beyond the reach of the marauders. + +The hut in which they are stored is nearly always kept guarded, +and, where this is impracticable, the skins are hid in hollow trees, +or carried to some near settlement, as we have already mentioned. + +If the campaign proves successful and promises well for another +season, it is customary to hide the traps beneath rocks, thus saving +the labor of a second transportation. In order to keep the traps +from rusting, it is well to cover them with oat or buckwheat chaff. +The rock should be first rolled from its resting place, and a bed +of the chaff made beneath it, in which the traps should be covered, +the rock being afterwards replaced. In a few such +[Page 230] +places all the traps may be effectually stored away, and they will +be found in prime order and ready for business on the following +season. + +In the months of September and October trappers are much annoyed by +gnats and mosquitoes, and, as a preventive against the attacks of +these pests, we give on page 255 some valuable receipts, which have +stood the test of time, and are still the most effective remedies. +The "smudge," consisting of a smouldering pile of birch bark is +also used where the insects infest the tents or shanties by night. +The bark should be dry, and should not be allowed to blaze. The +smudge is generally placed at the entrance of the tent, and the +trapper may then take his choice between smoke or mosquitoes, both +cannot exist together, and a tent infested with the blood-thirsty +pests may be effectually cleared in a few minutes by the introduction +of smoking brand for a few seconds. If the tent is now closely +buttoned and the smudge kept burning directly outside, there will +be no further trouble with the mosquitoes, and the odor of the +smoke is, after all, but a slight annoyance and to some is even +enjoyable after being once accustomed to it. When the home shanty +is infested, it may be cleared in the same way, and by the aid of +two or more smudges on the windward side may be kept free from +the insects. + + +FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. + +The professional trapper on a campaign depends much upon his traps +for his food, and often entirely contents himself with the subsistence +thus gained. We _encourage_ and _believe_ in "roughing it" to a +certain extent, but not to that limit to which it is often carried +by many professional "followers of the trap" throughout our country. +The course of diet to which these individuals subject themselves, +would often do better credit to a half civilized barbarian than +to an enlightened white man, and when it comes to starting on a +campaign with no provision for food excepting a few traps, a gun, and +a box of matches, and relying on a chance chip for a frying-pan, he +would rather be "counted out." In ordinary cases we see no necessity +for such deprivation, and, on the other hand, we decry the idea of +transporting a whole kitchen and larder into the woods. There is +a happy medium between the two extremes, whereby a light amount +of luggage in the shape of cooking utensils and closely packed +portable food, may render the wild life of the trapper very cozy +and comfortable, and his meals a source of enjoyment, instead of a +[Page 231] +fulfilment of physical duty. What with the stock of traps, necessary +tools, blankets, etc., the trapper's burden is bound to be pretty +heavy, and it becomes necessary to select such food for transportation +as shall combine the greatest amount of nutriment and the least possible +weight, and to confine the utensils to those absolutely necessary +for decent cooking. + +The trapper's culinary outfit may then be reduced to the following +items, and in them he will find a sufficiency for very passable +living. + +One of the most nutritious and desirable articles of food consists +of fine sifted Indian meal; and it is the only substantial article +of diet which many trappers will deign to carry at all. + +By some it is mixed with twice its quantity of wheat flour, and +is thus used in the preparation of quite a variety of palatable +dishes. One or two pounds of salt pork will also be found a valuable +addition; boxes of pepper and salt and soda should also be carried. +With these simple provisions alone, relying on his gun, traps and +fishing tackle for animal food, the young trapper may rely on three +enjoyable meals a day, if he is anything of a cook. Pork fritters +are not to be despised, even at a hotel table; and with the above +they can be made to suit the palate of the most fastidious. + +Indian meal is a valuable accessory with cooks generally, and to +the trapper it often becomes his great "staff of life." If our +young enthusiast desires to try his hand at roughing it to the +fullest extent, compatible with common sense and the strength of an +ordinary physical constitution, he may endeavor to content himself +with the above portable rations; but with anything less it becomes +too much like starvation to arouse our enthusiasm. For cooking +utensils, a small frying-pan and a deep tin basin are indispensable; +and a drinking cup is also to be desired. The kind known as the +telescope cup, constructed in three parts, which close within each +other, when not in use, possesses great advantages on account of +its portability. With these one can get along pretty decently. + +[Illustration] + +The pork fritters already mentioned form a favorite dish with trappers +generally, and can be made in the following +[Page 232] +way; have at hand a thick batter of the Indian meal and flour; +cut a few slices of the pork, and fry them in the frying-pan until +the fat is tried out; cut a few more slices of the pork; dip them +in the batter and drop them in the bubbling fat, seasoning with +salt and pepper; cook until light brown and eat while hot. The +question now arises, "What shall we eat them with?" If you are +"roughing it," such luxuries as plates and knifes and forks are +surely out of the question; and you must content yourself with +a pair of chop sticks "a la Chinee," or make your jackknife do +double purpose, using a flat chip or stone as a plate. A small +tin plate may be added to the list of utensils if desired, but +we are now confining ourselves to the "lowest limit" of absolute +necessities. That wholesome dish known as "boiled mush," may come +under the above bill of fare; and fried mush is an old stand-by +to the rough and ready trapper. In the first case the Indian meal +is slowly boiled for one hour, and then seasoned as eaten. It is +then allowed to cool, and is cut in slices and fried in fat. Indian +meal cakes are easily made by dropping a quantity of the hot mush +in the frying-pan, having previously stirred in a small quantity +of soda, and turning it as soon as the lower side is browned. A +Johnny cake thus made is always appetizing, and with the addition +of a little sugar, it becomes a positive luxury. Hoe cakes, so +much relished by many, can be made by mixing up a quantity into +a thick mass, adding a little soda. Bake in the fire on a chip or +flat stone. The trapper's ground is generally in the neighborhood +of lakes or streams, and fresh fish are always to be had. They +may be cooked in a manner which would tempt a city epicure; and +when it comes to the cooking of a fresh brook trout, neither a +Prof. Blot nor a Delmonico can compete with the trapper's recipe. +The trout is first emptied and cleaned through a hole at the neck, +if the fish is large enough to admit of it; if not, it should be +done by a slit up the belly. The interior should be carefully washed +and seasoned with salt and pepper; and in the case of a large fish, +it should be stuffed with Indian meal. Build a good fire and allow +the wood to burn down to embers; lay the fish in the hot ashes +and cover it with the burning coals and embers; leave it thus for +about half an hour, more or less, in proportion to the size of the +fish (this may be easily determined by experiment); when done, +remove it carefully from the ashes, and peel off the skin. The +clean pink flesh and delicious savor which now manifest themselves +will create an appetite where none before existed. All the delicate +[Page 233] +flavor and sweet juices of the fish are thus retained, and the trout +as food is then known in its perfection. + +By the ordinary method of cooking, the trout loses much of its +original flavor by the evaporation of its juices; and although +a delicious morsel in any event, it is never fully appreciated +excepting after being roasted in the ashes, as above described. + +The other method consists in rolling the fish in the Indian meal +and frying it in the frying-pan with a piece of the salt pork. +Seasoning as desired. + +Partridges, ducks, quail, and other wild fowl are most delicious +when cooked in the ashes as described for the trout. The bird should +be drawn in the ordinary manner, and the inside washed perfectly +clean. It should then be embedded in the hot coals and ashes, the +feathers having been previously saturated with water. When done, +the skin and feathers will easily peel off, and the flesh will +be found to be wonderfully sweet, tender, and juicy. A stuffing +of pounded crackers and minced meat of any kind, with plenty of +seasoning, greatly improves the result, or the Indian meal may be +used if desired. A fowl thus roasted is a rare delicacy. A partridge, +squirrel, pigeon, woodcock, or any other game can be broiled as +well in the woods as at home, using a couple of green-branched +twigs for a spider or "toaster," and turning occasionally. For +this purpose the bird should be plucked of its feathers, cleanly +drawn and washed, and spread out by cutting down the back. Venison, +moose, or bear meat, can be deliciously roasted in joints of several +pounds before a good fire, using a green birch branch as a spit, +and resting it on two logs, situated on opposite sides of the fire. +The meat can thus be occasionally turned and propped in place by +a small stick, sprinkling occasionally with salt and pepper. The +above manner of making the fire is that adopted by most woodsmen. +Two large green logs, of several feet in length, being first laid +down at about three feet distant, between these the fire is built, +and when a kettle is used a heavy pole is so arranged as to project +and hold it over the fire. A cutlet of venison fried in the pan +is delicious, and a "Johnny cake" cooked in the fat of this meat +is a decided dainty. + +With the above hints for a "rough and ready" campaign, we think +the young trapper ought to be able to get along quite comfortably. + +We will now pass on to the consideration of what the average +[Page 234] +professional trapper would call "luxuries." The stock of these +depends much upon the location of the trapping ground. If accessible +by wagon or boat, or both, they may be carried in unlimited quantities, +but when they are to be borne on the back of the trapper through +a pathless wilderness of miles, the supply will, of course, have +to be cut short. When two or three start out together it becomes +much easier, one carrying the traps and tools; another the guns, +cooking utensils, etc.; the third confining his luggage to the food. +One of the most necessary requisites for a journey on foot consists +in a knapsack or large square basket, which can be easily strapped +to the back of the shoulders, thus leaving the hands free. Matches +are absolutely indispensable, and a good supply should be carried. +They should always be enclosed in a large-mouthed bottle with a +close fitting cork, to prevent their being damaged by moisture. For +further safety in this regard the matches may be rendered perfectly +water-proof by dipping their ends in thin mastic or shellac varnish. +If not at hand, this varnish can be easily made by dissolving a +small quantity of either sort of gum in three or four times its +bulk of alcohol. It is well to dip the whole stick in the solution, +thereby rendering the entire match impervious to moisture. Lucifer +matches are the best, and, when thus prepared, they may lay in +water for hours without any injury. It is a fearful thing to find +oneself in the wilderness, cold and hungry, and without the means +of lighting a fire, and to prepare for such an emergency it is +always advisable to be provided with a pocket sun glass. So long as +the sun shines a fire is thus always to be had, either by igniting +a small quantity of powder (which the trapper is always supposed +to carry) or using powdered "touch wood" or "punk tinder" in its +place. Fine scrapings from dry wood will easily ignite by the sun +glass, and by fanning the fire and adding additional fuel it will +soon burst into flame. In cloudy weather, and in the absence of +matches, a fire may easily be kindled by sprinkling a small quantity +of powder on a large flat stone, setting a percussion cap in its +midst, and covering the whole with dry leaves. A smart strike on +the cap with a hammer will have the desired result, and by heaping +additional fuel on the blazing leaves the fire soon reaches large +proportions. If the young trapper should ever be so unfortunate +as to find himself in the wild woods, chilled and hungry, minus +matches, powder, caps, and sun glass, he may as a last resort try +the following: Scrape some lint or cotton from some portion of +the garment, or some tinder from a dry stick, and lay it on the +[Page 235] +surface of some rough rock, white quartz rock if it can be found. +Next procure a fragment of the same stone, or a piece of steel from +some one of the traps, and strike its edge sharply, and with a +skipping stroke into the further side of the tinder, the direction +being such as will send the sparks thus produced into the inflammable +material. Continue this operation until the tinder ignites. By now +gently fanning the smoking mass it may easily be coaxed into flame. +At least so our Adirondack guide told us last summer. The author has +never had occasion to test the merits of the plan for himself, and +has no special desire of being so placed, as that his life will hang +upon its success. He presents it therefore as a mere suggestion +without endorsing its practicability, and would rather prefer matches +in the long run. The open fire generally serves both for purposes +of warmth and cooking, but by many, a camp stove is considered a +great improvement. Stoves of this character, and for this especial +purpose, are in the market. They are small and portable, with pipe +and furniture, all of which pack away closely into the interior. +A fire is easily started in one of these stoves, and, by closing +the damper, a slow fire may be kept up through the night. The stove +is generally set up at the entrance of the tent, the pipe passing +through the top, in a hole near the ridge pole. The furniture consists +of three pots or kettles, which pack easily into each other, and +when in the stove still leave ample room for a considerable amount +of provisions. + +The kettles are made of block-tin, and frying-pans also, as these +are much more light and portable than those made of iron. The lid +may be used as a plate, and for this purpose the handle consists +of an iron ring, which will fold flat against the surface when +inverted. Knives, forks, and spoons are easily stowed away in the +stove or knapsack, and a coffee-pot should always be carried. There +is a knife known as the combination camp-knife, which is much used +by hunters and trappers, and contains a spoon, fork, knife, and +various other useful appendages, in a most compact form. It costs +from one to two dollars. + +For provisions, potatoes will be found excellent, both on account +of their portability and the variety of ways in which they may be +served. They are healthy and nutritions, and always palatable. +Beans are also very desirable for the same reasons. Wheat flour will +form a valuable addition to the trapper's larder, and particularly +so, if the "self-raising" kind can be had. This +[Page 236] +flour contains all the required ingredients for light bread and +biscuit, and is sold by grocers generally, in packages of various +sizes, with accompanying recipes. We strongly recommend it where +a stove is employed; and to anyone who is fond of biscuit, bread, +or pancakes, it will be appreciated. Butter, lard, sugar, salt, +pepper and mustard are valuable accessories, and curry-powder, +olive oil, and vinegar will often be found useful. Olive oil is +often used by camping parties with the curry powder, and also as +a substitute for lard in the frying-pan. Pork, Indian meal and +crackers, wheaten grits, rice, and oat-meal are desirable, and +coffee and tea are great luxuries. For soups, Liebig's extract of +beef is a most valuable article, and with the addition of other +ingredients, vegetables or meat, the result is a most delicious and +nutritious dish. This extract is obtainable at almost any grocer's, +and full directions and recipes accompany each jar. Canned vegetables +are much to be desired on account of their portability, and are +never so delicious as when cooked over a camp fire. Lemonade is +always a luscious beverage, but never so much so as to a thirsty +trapper. A few lemons are easily carried and will repay the trouble. + +All provisions, such as meal, flour, sugar, salt, crackers, and the +like, should be enclosed in water-proof canvas bags, and labelled. +The bags may be rendered water-proof either by painting, (in which +case no _lead_ or arsenic paints should be used) or by dipping in +the preparation described on page 247. If these are not used, a +rubber blanket, page 250, may be substituted, the eatables being +carefully wrapped therein, when not in use. The butter and lard +should be put up in air-tight jars, and should be kept in a cool +place, either on the ground in a shady spot, or in some cool spring. + +For a campaign on foot, the knapsack, or shoulder-basket, already +alluded to on page 234, is an indispensable article. It should +be quite large and roomy, say fifteen inches in depth and ten by +twelve inches in its other dimensions. The material should be canvas, +rubber cloth, or wicker, and, in any case, the opening at the top +should have a water-proof covering extending well over the sides. +The straps may consist of old suspender bands, fastened crosswise +on the broad side of the bag. The capacity of such a knapsack is +surprising, and the actual weight of luggage seems half reduced +when thus carried on the shoulders. When three or four trappers +start together, which is the usual custom, and each is provided +with such a shoulder basket, the luggage can be thus divided, and +the load for each individual much lightened. + +[Page 237] +Venison is the trapper's favorite food, and in mild weather it +sometimes happens that the overplus of meat becomes tainted before +it can be eaten. To overcome this difficulty the following process +is resorted to, for the preservation of the meat, and the result +is the well-known and high-priced "jerked venison" of our markets. +The flesh is first cut into small, thin strips, all the meat being +picked off from the bones. The pieces are then placed on the inside +of the hide of the animal and thoroughly mixed with salt, a pint +and a half being generally sufficient. The salt being well worked +in, the fragments should be carefully wrapped in the hide, and +suffered to remain in this condition for two or three hours. The +meat is then ready to be dried,--"jerked." + +Four forked poles should be first driven into the ground, about +six feet apart, in the form of a square, the forks being four feet +above ground. Lay two poles of green wood across the forks on the +two opposite sides of the square, and cover the space between them +by other poles laid across them, an inch or two inches apart. On +to this mammoth gridiron the strips of flesh should now be spread, +and a steady fire of birch or other clean, fresh wood should be +kept steadily burning beneath for about twenty-four hours. At the +end of this time the meat will have reduced much in size and weight. +The salt will have been thoroughly _dried in_, and the flesh so +prepared maybe kept for almost any length of time. In its present +condition it is excellent eating, and it is always at hand for +frying, and may be cooked in a variety of ways. Moose and bear meat +may be dried in a similar manner, using a proportionate amount of +salt. Fish may also be prepared in the same way, for which purpose +they should be scaled as usual and afterward spread open by cutting +down the back, the bone being removed. We cordially recommend this +method of preparing both flesh and fish, and no trapper's "recipe +book" is complete without it. + +In localities where wolves abound, the nocturnal invasions of these +creatures often render the keeping of fresh meat a very difficult +task, and in this connection it may be well to give directions +for the preservation of game desired to be used either as fresh +meat or for purposes of drying. + +The spring-pole is most commonly and successfully used. + +Select some stout sapling, bend it down, and cut off a limb several +feet from the ground. Hang the meat in the crotch thus formed, and +allow the tree to swing back. By dividing the meat into several +parts it may thus all be protected. When +[Page 238] +a moose or deer is killed at such a time or place, or under such +circumstances as render its immediate dressing impossible, its +carcass may be defended against mutilation by another means. Wolves +are naturally sly and sagacious, and have a wholesome fear of a +trap. Any unnatural arrangement of logs and stones immediately +excites their suspicion, and the trapper takes advantage of this +wary peculiarity to good purpose. Laying his dead game near some +fallen tree or old log he strews a few branches over the carcass, +or perhaps rests a log over it. Sometimes he hangs the entrails of +the animal over the body, on a forked stick, anyone of which devices +is said to have the desired result. The wolverine is another pest to +the trapper, and not being so sly as the wolf, never hesitates to +pounce upon any flesh within its reach. The former method, therefore, +is always the safest plan for absolute protection against all animals. + +The moose and deer are the favorite food of trappers in the country +where these animals abound, and the trappers of the Far West find +in the flesh of the Moufflon, or Rocky Mountain sheep, a delicacy +which they consider superior to the finest venison. The prong-horn +antelope of the Western plains is another favorite food-animal +with hunters, and the various "small game," such as squirrels, +rabbits, woodchucks, etc., are by no means to be despised. The +author once knew a trapper who was loud in his praises of "skunk +meat" for food, and many hunters can testify to its agreeable flavor +when properly dressed and cooked. It is hard, to be sure, to getup +much enthusiasm over a skunk, dead or alive, but where other food +is not to be had we would discourage the young trapper from being +too fastidious. + +The buffalo, or bison, is the great resource of the trappers of the +West. The tongue, tenderloin and brisket are generally preferred, +but all the meat is eatable. The flesh of the cow is best. It much +resembles beef, but has a more gamey flavor. In winged game there +is no food superior to the flesh of the grouse, and the great number +of the species and wide range of territory which they inhabit render +them the universal food game of trappers throughout the world. The +ruffed grouse or partridge, pinnated grouse or prairie hen, spruce +or Canada grouse, and the cock-of-the-plains or sage cock, are +familiar American examples of the family, and their near relatives, +the ptarmigans, afford a valuable source of food to the trappers +and hunters, as well as general inhabitants of our northern cold +countries. Here they are known as "snow grouse," and there are +[Page 239] +several species. The willow ptarmigan is the most common, and in Rome +localities exists in almost incredible numbers. Flocks numbering +several thousand have been frequently seen by travellers in the +Hudson's Bay territory; and the surface of the snow in a desirable +feeding ground, is often completely covered by the birds, in quest +of the willow tops, which form their chief food during the winter +season. The Indians and natives secure the birds in large numbers, +by the trap described on page 75, and Hearne, the traveller and +explorer of the Hudson's Bay region, asserts that he has known over +three hundred to be thus caught in a single morning, by three persons. + +Of water fowl, ducks and geese are especially to be recommended. +The former are hunted with decoys and boats, and are sometimes +trapped, as described on pages 94. The species are distinguished +as sea ducks and river or inland ducks. The latter are considered +the most desirable for food, being more delicate and less gamey in +flavor than the salt-water, or fish-eating varieties. The mallard, +teal, muscovy, widgeon, and wood-chuck are familiar species of the +inland birds, and the merganser and canvass-back are the two most +esteemed salt-water varieties. Wild geese are common throughout North +America, and may be seen either in the early spring or late fall +migrating in immense numbers. They form a staple article of food +in many parts of British America, and great numbers are salted down +for winter supply. They are trapped in large numbers, as described +on page 75, and are hunted with tame geese as decoys, the hunter +being secreted behind a screen or covert, and attracting the game +by imitating their cries. + +Fish form an agreeable change to the trapper's diet, and may be +caught by the hook and line, or by spearing. The latter method +requires considerable practice and skill, but is very successful. +The Indians of the North are great experts in the use of the spear, +and the number of salmon taken by them annually is enormous. The +spear generally consists of five or six steel prongs an inch apart +and barbed at the ends. It is mounted on a heavy handle, and when it +strikes its victim its grip is sure death. The spearing is generally +performed either at the spawning beds or at the falls. + +Salmon trout are generally speared in the night time by boat, the +spawning ground, generally a gravel bank near the shore, being +the seat of operations. A fire of pitch pine and birch bark is +ignited on an elevated "jack" in the bow of the boat, the "jack" +consisting of an ox-muzzle, or other concave wire contrivance +[Page 240] +which will hold the inflammable materials. This is secured to a +post or crotched stick, as a prop, and the spearman stands near +the burning mass with his spear in readiness. As his companion in +the stern of the boat paddles, he keenly watches for his victim, +and, seeing his opportunity, makes his lunge and lands his prize. +To become a successful spearman requires much practice and no small +degree of skill. To retain one's balance, acquire quickness of stroke, +and withal to regulate the aim so as to allow for the refraction of +the light in the water, all tend to invest the sport with a degree +of skill which only experience can master. + +Fishing through the ice in winter is a rare sport, and large numbers +of brook and lake trout are often taken at this season by cutting +holes through the ice and fishing with hook and line. The baits +commonly used consist of cow's udder or hog's liver, these being +especially preferred on account of their toughness. Angle worms +are also excellent, and any kind of raw meat may be used if other +bait is not to be had. + +It is asserted by some sportsmen that bait scented with assafoetida +is much more attractive to the fish, and will insure a capture +which would otherwise be impossible. Sweet cicily and anise are +also used for the same purpose. When the trout bite lively, fishing +through the ice is a most exciting sport, and by the aid of "tip-ups" +a single person may command a great number of lines. The winter +resort of the brook trout is in water two or three feet deep, over +sandy beds. The lake trout frequent deeper water. + +The holes are made in the ice at intervals of one or two rods, and +a line set in each hole. + +The "tip-up" consists of a narrow strip of lath or shingle, with +a hole bored through it near the large end. At this end the line +is attached, and the hook thrown in the water. A branch is now +inserted through the aperture, and its ends are rested across the +opening in the ice. No sooner does the fish bite than the long +end tips straight in the air, and thus betrays its captive. Ten +or fifteen of these contrivances will often keep one pretty busy, +and do good service. By some an ordinary cut fish pole, arranged on +a crotch, is used instead of the tip-ups just described. Pickerel +fishing through the ice is a favorite winter sport in many localities. +The line should be about thirty feet in length, and the bait should +consist of a small, live fish, hooked through the back. A small cork +float should be attached to the line at such a distance as will keep +[Page 241] +the bait above the bottom, and the superfluous line should be laid +in a loose coil near the hole, the end being attached to a small +switch or bush, stuck up in the ice near by. The pickerel, on taking +the bait, should be allowed to play out the whole line before being +pulled in, as the fish requires this time to fully swallow his +prey, after which the hook is sure to hold him firmly. Twenty or +thirty lines may thus be attended at once, the bush or twig acting +the part of a tip-up, or sentinel. + +Pickerel spearing is another successful mode of capture during +the winter months. A large hole is made in the ice, in about two +feet of water, and covered by a spacious box or board hut, six or +seven feet square, and provided with a door. The spearman, concealed +within, lowers his bait, consisting of an artificial fish with +silver fins, made especially for the purpose. This he continually +twirls in the water, and as the pickerel approaches the bait, he +gradually raises it, until the fish is decoyed nearly to the surface +of the water, when a quick stroke of the spear secures his victim, +and the line is again lowered. This is capital sport, and is very +successful. + +There is a very curious device for fishing by night commonly employed +by some anglers, and sometimes known as the "lantern, or fish trap." +Many kinds of fish are attracted by a light, but to use a light +as a bait, submerged beneath the water, certainly seems odd. It +may be done, however, in the following way: The "fish lantern" +used for this purpose consists of a bottle containing a solution +of phosphorus in sweet oil. Procure a piece of the stick phosphorus +the size of a small cherry, and submerging in a saucer of water, +proceed to cut it into small pieces. Have in readiness a three-ounce +white glass bottle half filled with sweet oil. Drop the pieces of +phosphorus into the oil and cork the bottle tightly. In the space +of a few hours the phosphorus will have been completely dissolved, +and the contents of the bottle will present a thick, luminous fluid, +which in a dark room, will afford considerable light. This is the +fish lantern. To use it, the cork is firmly inserted and the bottle, +with fish line attached, is lowered through the hole in the ice. +The water becomes luminous for several feet around, and the unusual +brightness attracts the fish in large numbers. They are plainly, +discernible, and are readily dispatched with the spear, or captured +by a circular net, sunk on the bottom, beneath the luminous bait. +This is certainly an odd way of catching fish, but it is often +a very efficacious method. + +It has not been our intention to enter very extensively into +[Page 242] +the subject of fishing, but only to give such hints as will be +found especially useful and practical to the trapper in relation +to his food. The above methods, together with those of trolling +and fly-fishing, are those most commonly employed by trappers and +hunters generally, and we commend them to the amateur. + +We give, on page 120, a unique device for the capture of fish, which +might also be found useful. + +With the above general remarks on the campaign, together with what +follows in the detailed articles on the subject, we think that the +ground will have been completely covered. Every possible requirement +has been anticipated, and every ordinary emergency foreseen and +provided against. + + +THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER. + +The life of the professional trapper is a life of hardship and +severe exposure, and a man not only requires considerable courage, +but also great bodily vigor, in order to combat successfully the +dangers of such a wild, adventuresome existence. + +The cold and the storm not only imperil his life, but he is often +exposed to the attacks of wild beasts. A shelter, therefore, in one +form or another, becomes a necessity while it is always a decided +comfort, in comparison to a campaign without it. + +The reader will find below descriptions of the various shelters +alluded to in other parts of this work, and used by trappers throughout +the land. + +The most substantial of these is the log shanty, commonly known among +trappers as the "home shanty," on account of its being constructed +as the only permanent shelter on the trapping line. + +It is used as a "home," a place of rendezvous, and a storehouse +for provisions, furs, and other necessities and valuables. Other +temporary shelters, known as bark shanties, are also constructed +along the trapping lines at intervals of five or ten miles, as +resting places. These we describe under the proper title. + +Although, to the amateur trapper, the log shanty is not likely +to become a necessity, we will nevertheless describe its mode of +construction, in order to satisfy our more earnest and adventurous +readers, who aspire to a full taste of wild life. + +Our illustration gives a very clear idea of such a shanty. + +[Page 243] +[Illustration: THE HOME SHANTY.] + +[Page 244] +It may be constructed of any size, but one of about twelve by ten +feet will be found large enough for ordinary purposes. Select straight +logs, about eight inches in diameter. The whole number required +will be thirty-six. Of these one-half should be twelve feet in +length and the other ten. These should now be built up in the square +form, on a level piece of ground, laying the ends of the logs over +each other, and securing them by notches at the corners, so deep as +to allow the edges of the logs to meet. Lay two short logs first, +and continue building until all the thirty-six logs are used, and +we will now have four symmetrical sides about six feet in height. +The place for the door should now be selected. The uppermost log +should form its upper outline, and the two sides should be cleanly +and straightly cut with a crosscut saw. The window openings, one or +more, may next be cut, commencing beneath the second log from the +top, and taking in three beneath it. Replace the logs above, and +on the ends of those thus cut, both in windows and doors, proceed +to spike a heavy plank, driving two nails into each log, about +five inches apart, one above the other. This will hold them firmly +in place, and offer a close-fitting jam for the door, and neat +receptacle for the window sashes, which latter may now be put in +after the ordinary manner. + +The gable ends should next be built upon the smaller sides of the +hut. Commence by laying a long log (notched as before) across the +top of the frame work, and about two feet inside the edge. This +should of course be done on both sides of the hut, after which +they should be overlapped at the corners with logs eight feet in +length. Next lay two more long logs, parallel with the first two, +and about a foot inside them, notching as before. The ends of these +should be spanned with beams eight feet in length. Two more long +logs are next in order--let them be one foot inside the last two. +Overlap these with beams five feet and a half in length, and in +the exact centre of these last pieces chop notches for a heavy +log for a ridge pole. The gable outline, direct from the ridge +pole to the eaves, should now be cut off by the aid of a sharp +axe. This may be done either while the pieces are in position, or +the line may be marked with a piece of chalk, and the logs taken +down in order to accomplish it. The roof is now required. This +should consist either of strips of bark or the rounded sides of +logs split off and hollowed into troughs. The latter method is +preferable, on account of its greater strength and durability, +but the bark will answer the purpose very well, and is much more +easily obtained. The manner of adjusting the roof pieces is clearly +[Page 245] +shown in our illustration. The first row is laid on with the hollow +side up, securing them at top and bottom by nails driven through each +into the ridge pole and eaves-log, care being taken that one of these +pieces projects well over the gable, on both ends of the hut. These +pieces are now overlapped by the second row, and with the addition +of the large piece which covers them all at the ridge pole, the +roof is complete, and will stand a heavy ram with little or no +leaking. The crevices should now be stopped with moss, dried grass +or clay, after which the log cabin is complete. When the bark roof +is made, additional poles may be inserted beneath as props. They +should be three or four inches in diameter, and run parallel with +the ridge pole, at intervals on the slope, notches being cut to +secure them. + +Our engraving represents a chimney, which may be constructed if +desired, but the necessity of this may be done away with by using +a small camp stove, and making a small opening in the gable end +of the hut for the passage of the pipe. If it stove should not +be at hand, and our amateur should decide to "rough it" to the +full extent, he may build his fire-place and chimney as follows: +It will be necessary to cut away an opening in the logs at the +gable end, as was done for the door and windows. This should be +about three feet square, and the fire place should be built of +stone and clay, or cement, to fill the opening, and project inside +the hut. + +The chimney may then be built up outside in the same manner, +sufficiently high to overtop the gables. + +Inside the hut overhead will be found abundant room for the hanging +of the skins, and any number of cross-poles may be rested across +the beams. There are facilities for the swinging of a hammock, +if desired, and, in fact, a hut constructed like the foregoing +is a perfect one in its way. There are other methods of building +a log cabin, but we will content ourselves with what we consider +the _best_ way of all, and pass on to the + + +BARK SHANTY. + +This is made by first driving into the ground two forked poles +seven or eight feet in height and stout enough to sustain a ridge +pole of moderate size. Against this ridge pole other poles should +be rested at intervals of two feet, and sloping to the angle of +forty-five degrees. The frame-work thus formed should now be covered +with bark, commencing at the ground and allowing the edge of each +piece to overlap the one beneath +[Page 246] +after the manner of shingles, in order to shed the rain in case +of storm. Spruce or birch bark are excellent for this purpose, +and the pieces may be secured with nails, and kept flat by the +weight of another series of poles rested against them. The sides +of the shelter should be treated similarly, the front being usually +left open to face the fire, which the trapper generally builds a +few feet distant. In constructing a bark shanty, it is well to +select some spot protected from the wind, close to the foot of a +mountain or in the midst of trees, always letting the open side +face the direction most sheltered. + +If desired, the front can be enclosed after the manner of the sides +and top, but this is not required where the fire is used. + +This style of shelter is represented in our page title to this section, +and certainly looks very comfortable. + + +TENTS. + +Shanties like the foregoing are in general use among the old veteran +trappers of all countries, and even to the amateur there is a charm +in a shelter constructed from the rude materials of the woods which +the portable tents do not possess. + +Tents, however, are much used both by professionals and amateurs, +and are indeed valuable acquisitions to the trapper's outfit, and +where time is valuable, do away with the labor which the construction +of a hut or shanty involves. + +Tents are of several kinds. Those most commonly used by the trapper +are the house-tent, fly-tent, and half-tent, or shelter-tent. + +The first of these is made for prop-poles and a ridge pole, closed +on one end and buttoning up at the other. The sides are perpendicular +for two or three feet, before the slope commences, and the stay-ropes +are fastened to the eaves. + +The fly-tent is generally a large, square piece of canvas, with +ropes extending from opposite sides. This is thrown over a ridge +pole, or over a rope extending between two trees, and the sides +are held to the proper slope by tightening and pegging the side +ropes to the ground. Fly-tents are also made with ends, which can +be lowered, and the whole tent may be pegged close to the ground. + +The shelter-tent, when erected, resembles, in general shape, the +bark shanty already described. It consists of a strip of canvas, +having each end cut off to a point. The tent is pitched over three +slanting poles, and the ends are brought down and securely pegged. +This is clearly shown in our illustration. + +[Page 247] +[Illustration] + +We do not propose giving any extended directions for making tents, +as they are a staple article of trade, and, as a general thing, can +be bought for a figure which would render their domestic manufacture +of little saving or profit. The shelter-tent, however, is so useful +an affair, and withal so very simple made, that we will give a few +directions in regard to its manufacture. It should be made from +stout _cotton drilling_, or very heavy sheeting. Let the piece +be about thirteen feet in length by six in width. Each end of the +piece should now be cut to a rectangular point, commencing to cut +at a distance of three feet from each corner. In order to render +the cloth waterproof, it should now be dipped in a pail containing +a solution of equal parts of alum and sugar of lead, a couple of +handfuls of each, in tepid water. It should be allowed to remain +several minutes in soak, being dipped and turned occasionally, +after which it should be spread out to dry. This treatment not +only renders the cloth impervious to rain, but the alum tends to +make it fire-proof also. A spark from the fire falling upon a tent +thus prepared, will often rest upon the cloth until it goes out, +without doing the slightest damage. + +[Page 248] +The manner of pitching the tent has already been alluded to, and +is clear from our illustration. The poles should be three or four +in number, and seven feet in length, inserted in the ground at the +angle denoted. The two outside poles should be seven feet apart, +and the intermediate ones equally disposed. The tent piece should +now be laid over the poles, and the ends brought down and pegged +to the ground at the apex, and rear corners of each side through +loops, which should have been previously attached to these parts. +A tent, thus arranged, affords a safe shelter from the wind or +a moderate storm, and with a bright fire in front, is warm and +comfortable. + + +BEDS AND BEDDING. + +[Illustration] + +Many a trapper does away with these commodities, merely rolling +himself in a blanket and using his arm for a pillow; but we do +not propose to encourage or recommend any such half-way comfort as +this, when by a very little labor a portable bed can be prepared +on which the weary hunter can rest as serenely as if slumbering +on the congenial softness of a hair mattress. A bed of this kind +we illustrate, and it can be made in the following manner: Procure +a large piece of canvas, sacking or other strong, coarse material +six and a half feet square. If a single piece of this size cannot +be found, several parts may he sewed together to the required +dimensions. After which two opposite sides should be firmly stitched +[Page 249] +together, thus forming a bottomless bag, if we may be allowed to use +the expression. Two stout poles seven or eight feet in length and as +large as the wrist should now be cut. Insert them through the bag, +allowing the ends to project equally on each side. These ends should +now be rested on two logs, one placed across each end of the canvas. +In order to hold the poles in place notches should be cut in the logs +at such distances as will draw the bag to its full width. The interior +of the canvas should now be filled with dried grass, leaves, moss +or spruce boughs, after which the bedstead and bed is complete. + +The yielding elasticity of the poles and the softness of the warm +filling in the bag, give the effect of a spring and straw mattress +combined, lifting the sleeper above the cold, damp ground, and by +the addition of a blanket above, insuring warmth on all sides. If +the logs are not at hand four forked stakes may be used, driving +them firmly into the ground at such distances as will draw the +bag to its full width, when the poles are rested upon them. If +by the weight of the body the forked props should tend to incline +towards each other this trouble may be easily remedied by inserting +short poles as braces between them. If desired a bed of this kind +may be used as a hammock and hung in a tree without much trouble. +It is only necessary to secure the long poles firmly at their full +width by a stout brace pole at the ends, letting the latter be +deeply notched at the tips in order to receive the bed supports. +The joints should then be tightly bound with stout twine in order +to prevent slipping, after which the bed may be hung in mid-air +by ropes at each end, and the tired trapper may swing himself to +sleep with perfect comfort and safety. For this purpose the ropes +should be attached at the joints, using a loop of six feet for +each end. In the centre of this loop a small one should be made +by doubling the rope and winding twine about it, leaving only a +small aperture. Through these small loops, by the aid of other +ropes, the bed is attached to the tree. By using this precaution +the unpleasant experience of being turned or dumped out of bed +will be impossible. For bed clothes a woollen blanket should always +be carried, and if convenient a large bag of thick Canton flannel +is a most excellent acquisition. + +Bags of this sort are in common use among amateur trappers, hunters +and camping parties, and are very warm and comfortable. They should +be nearly seven feet in length and of a "loose, easy fit." With +one of these contrivances it is impossible to "kick the clothes +off" and the warmth is continual instead +[Page 250] +of "intermittent," and even on the bare ground it is said to be +sufficient protection. Hammocks are also in very general use, but +we can confidently recommend the suspended bed above described +as decidedly preferable. + +There are various kinds of hammocks in the market, from the light +fibered silk, weighing only a few ounces, to the large corded variety +of several pounds weight and capable of holding many persons. They +are an established article of trade, and as the details of their +manufacture would be of little practical use to the reader, we +will leave them without further consideration. They can be had at +almost any sporting emporium, at comparatively small cost. + + +TENT CARPETING. + +We have described a most excellent contrivance for a bedstead and +recommend its use whenever possible; but when the bed is desired +to be made on the ground the following method is usually employed, +by which the whole interior of the tent, hut or shanty is carpeted +with a soft, even covering of green. + +Spruce or hemlock boughs are generally used, and should be from +the tips of the branches where the wood is not too large. Commence +at the back part of the shelter, and lay down a row of the boughs +with the butt of the branch towards the front. Overlap these with +another nearer row and continue the operation, laying the evergreen +as evenly as possible until the whole interior is smoothly covered. +The projecting ends at the front, should now be secured by the +weight of a medium sized log, or by a pole pegged down firmly at +intervals. A similar log should now be laid at the back portion +of the shelter over the tips of the boughs after which the bed +is complete, and will be found easy and comfortable in proportion +to the care and skill shown in its construction. A blanket should +be thrown over the boughs before reclining to rest, as the fresh +green gives forth considerable dampness. + +If possible a rubber blanket should be used for this purpose. These +consist of thick Canton flannel, coated on one side with Indian +rubber, and are used with the rubber side down. They are warm and +comfortable, and a valuable acquisition to the trapper's outfit. +There is a thinner and cheaper variety, having equal water-proof +qualities but which does not possess the warmth of the former. +Either will be found useful. + +So much for beds and bedding. If the reader will now turn +[Page 251] +his attention to the following section, "The Trapper's Miscellany," +he will find much in detail of what has only been alluded to in the +present chapter, besides other hints of great value in reference +to a trapping campaign. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Page 253] +[Illustration: THE TRAPPERS' MISCELLANY] + + + + +[Page 255] +BOOK VIII. + +THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY. + +[Illustration: O]ur enthusiastic novice, as he starts out into the +wilderness, should not be unmindful of the swarms of blood-thirsty +flies, gnats and mosquitoes, which infest the woods in the summer +and early autumn, and are there lying in wait for him. These often +become a source of great annoyance to the woodsman, and more often +a source of positive bodily suffering. + +Although trapping is not generally carried on during this season, +the preparations for the coming campaign, including the building +of shanties, transporting of traps, etc., are generally made at +this time, and unless some preventive is used, the persecutions of +the mosquitoes and other winged vermin, become almost unbearable. + + +INSECT OINTMENTS. + +These insects seem to have a special aversion for the scent of +pennyroyal--an herb growing commonly in sandy localities--and a +single plant rubbed upon the face and hands will often greatly +check their attacks. + +The oil of pennyroyal is better, however, and an ointment made by +straining one ounce of the oil into two or three ounces of pure +melted lard, or mutton tallow, forms an excellent antidote. This +may be carried in a little box or bottle, in the pocket, and applied +as occasion requires. Plain mutton tallow is also a most excellent +ointment for general use, and in the case of bruises or slight +wounds, will give great relief. + +Another preparation in very common use amongst hunters and woodsmen, +although not quite as agreeable in odor, consists of a mixture of +common tar and sweet oil, in equal parts. By some this liniment +is considered superior to the other, inasmuch as it also prevents +tanning, and is beneficial to the complexion. + +[Page 256] +During the night time, the tent or shanty often becomes swarmed +with the winged pests, and their nocturnal assaults are proverbial +for their pertinacity and severity. Their thirst for blood overcomes +every other instinct, and pennyroyal often ceases to have any effect. +Our Adirondack guide, in narrating his experience with these insect +vampires, even says that on a certain night, becoming exasperated at +their indomitable perseverance, and, getting tired of the monotonous +occupation of spreading ointment, he arose, lit his candle, and drove +the creatures out of the tent. He then buttoned up the opening, and +retired to rest. A storm came up in the night, and so completely +had his canvas been riddled by the bills of the mosquitoes, that +the rain poured through his tent as through a sieve. + +We have heard of the man who, when pursued by hungry mosquitoes, +took refuge beneath a large chaldron, and, by the aid of a stone, +clinched the blood-thirsty bills as they protruded in quest of his +life-blood, until, by the united efforts of the winged captives, +the chaldron was lifted and wafted out of sight, as if it were a +feather. + +One story is just as true as the other, and a summer in the Adirondack +woods will tend to strengthen, rather than diminish, the belief in +either. + +The smoke of smouldering birch bark will effectually drive away +the mosquitoes from the tents at night. This method is commonly +known as "the smudge," and is more fully described in another part +of this work. + +The smell of the smoke is often unpleasant at first, but it is always +preferable to the insect bites. + +Mosquitoes are not the only vampires which infest our wooded lands. +The "punkeys" and "midgets" can outstrip them for voracity and the +painful character of the wound which they inflict. The "punkey," +or "black-fly," as it is called, is a small, black gnat, about the +size of a garden ant, and the bite of the insect often results +very seriously. The midget is a minute little creature, and is the +most everlastingly sticky and exasperating pest in the catalogue +of human torments. They fly in swarms of thousands, and go for their +victim "en masse" and the face, hands and neck are soon covered as +if with "hay seed." They stick where they first light, and commence +operations immediately. All endeavors to shake them off are fruitless, +and their combined attacks are soon most painfully realized. Their +bites produce great redness and swelling, and the itching is most +intolerable. Happily for the woodsman, the "smudge" +[Page 257] +and pennyroyal ointment are effectual preventives against the attacks +of both midgets and black flies, as well as mosquitoes; and no one +who values his life or good looks should venture on a woodland +excursion in the summer months without a supply of this latter +commodity. In conclusion, we would remark that, to the mosquito +the blood of the intemperate seems to have a special attraction, +and anyone who wishes to enjoy comparative freedom from the attacks +of these pests, should abstain from the use of alcoholic stimulants. +It is a too prevalent idea among trappers that whiskey and rum are +necessary adjuncts to a trapping campaign, and many a trapper would +about as soon think of leaving his traps at home as his whisky bottle. +This is all a mistake. Anyone who has not sufficient strength of +constitution to withstand the hardships and exposures of a trapping +life, without the especial aid of stimulants, should stay at home. +We are now alluding to the _habitual_ use of such stimulants. It +is always well to be provided with a flask of whisky or brandy, +in case of illness, but it should only be resorted to in such an +event. For a mere chill, we recommend the use of red pepper tea. A +simple swallow of this drink, (made simply by soaking a red pepper +in a cup of hot water) will restore warmth much quicker than three +times the amount of any alcoholic stimulant. It is not our purpose to +extend into a lengthened temperance lecture, but only to discourage +the wide-spread idea that _stimulants_ are _necessities_ in the +life of the trapper. Midgets, musquitoes and punkeys delight over +a victim with alcohol in his veins, and while to a healthy subject +the bites are of only brief annoyance, to the intemperate they +often result in painful, obstinate sores. + +[Illustration] + +In addition to the various ointments used, it is well to be provided +with a head-net, such as we illustrate. Nets of this kind are specially +made for sportsmen, and consist of a spiral wire framework, covered +with mosquito netting, and of such a size to slip easily on the +head. + +[Page 258] +They are easily made, as our engraving would indicate. + +A netting attachment for the hat is also an acquisition, especially +in open woods, free from overhanging branches or dense thickets. +Such a netting may be secured to the edge of the hat brim, and +gathered with an elastic at the lower edge. This elastic will close +snugly around the neck when in use, and at other times may be drawn +above the brim and allowed to rest on top of the crown. + +The portable hat brim, which we illustrate, is an article of trade +in common use among sportsmen, and particularly the angler. Our +engraving (_a_) shows the article separate. It is made of cloth, +and is kept in its circular shape by a steel spring band at the +circumference, between the two sides. It may be attached to any +hat, and will act as a most effectual shelter to the rays of a +hot sun. + +[Illustration: a] + +The netting above alluded to may be attached to such a brim, and +applied to the edge of the hat when desired. This is shown at (_b_), +which also indicates the manner of adjustment of the brim. Such a +brim will often do good service, and may be obtained at almost any +sporting emporium at trifling cost. It is portable in every sense +of the word, being easily bent and packed away in the pocket. + +[Illustration: b] + + +[Page 259] +BOAT BUILDING. + +Where trapping is carried on along the banks of the lakes and rivers, +a boat of some kind becomes almost a positive necessity. + +[Illustration] + +The following examples represent those in most general use. Perhaps +the most common form of the "rough and ready" order of boats, is +that called the-- + +"DUG-OUT," OR LOG CANOE. + +It's general appearance is well indicated by the accompanying +illustration. With the proper tools, one of these canoes is easily +made. A sharp axe, an adze, a shaving knife, a round edged adze, +and a small auger, are principally necessary; and a cross-cut saw, +broad-axe, sledge, and large sized chisel, will also be found useful. + +In any case the log should not be much less than two feet in diameter, +perfectly sound, and free from knots. If this precaution is observed, +the result will be all the more satisfactory, and the canoe can be +cut so thin, as to render it a light burden; being easily carried +on the shoulders. + +A pine log is generally chosen for a dug-out, on account of the +lightness of the wood, and the ease with which it can be worked. +Butternut, cottonwood and whitewood, are also excellent, and indeed +almost any sound log of large size will answer the purpose. + +For a dug-out of good size, the log should be ten or more feet +in length. The first thing to be done is to cut a flat surface on +one side of the log, from end to end. This indicates the bottom +of the canoe. On the upper side the wood should be hewn away, in +the curve shown on the upper outline of our illustration. + +[Page 260] +It is well to divide the log by notches into three equal lengths. +In the centre division, the wood may be cut down to a straight +line to a depth of about eight inches from the upper surface. The +gradual curve to the bow and stern of the canoe should start from +each end of this flat cut, and extend to the upper edge of the log, +the guiding line being made on the sides of the log by a piece of +chalk. The adze will come into good use in trimming off the wood on +these curves. When this upper outline is accomplished, the log may +be turned bottom side up, and the sides of the extremities rounded +off. This may be done with an axe and adze, and when performed, +the bottom curves should be made by chopping away the wood in the +curves shown in the lower outline of our illustration. This curve +should also be marked out with chalk, and should commence a little +nearer the end of the log than the curve on the upper side. Shave +off the wood to a blunt edge on this curve, at both bow and stern. +The rough form of the canoe is now obtained, and by the aid of +the draw-knife, or shaving-knife, it can be neatly and smoothly +finished. + +It is then ready to be "dug-out." The tools most useful for this +purpose are the adze and axe, and sometimes the sledge and chisel. +The digging out is of course the most tedious part; but with sharp +tools it is a comparatively easy matter. When the great bulk of the +wood is taken out, the interior should be finished with a howel +or round adze; and the sides may be worked to one inch and a half +in thickness if desired. The writer once saw one of these canoes +of most exquisite workmanship, being only one inch in thickness, +and so light as to be easily lifted with one hand. Of course such +perfection as this is not necessary for ordinary purposes; although +where the canoe is expected to be carried any great distance, it +is well to thin it as much as possible. A gimlet or small auger +may be used to gauge the thickness of the canoe, using it in the +following manner: Supposing the required thickness of the wood +is two inches, proceed to bore the hole from the inside of the +canoe, and continue until the point of the gimlet or auger barely +makes its appearance on the outside. Draw out the tool, and if the +thickness measures more than is required, insert into the hole +a slender piece of wood exactly two inches in length; push it in +as far as it will go, and you may safely work until you reach the +end of it. By this method the thickness may be gauged in different +parts of the boat sufficiently to acquire a fair average thickness, +[Page 261] +and there is no danger of cutting through. The gimlet should be +allowed to extend outside of the canoe only sufficiently to be +detected, and the holes thus made will seldom give any trouble as +leaks. If, however, this should be the case, a little putty or pitch +will remedy the difficulty. + +The "dug-out" may be constructed of any size, and of any desired +shape, but the above is the usual type. + +When leaks or cracks occur, they may be caulked with hemp, and +smeared with pitch, which will render them thoroughly waterproof. + +For lightness and portability there is no boat more desirable or +more unique than-- + + +THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE. + +Where the white birch grows in perfection, and the trees attain +a large size, the chief material of the birch bark canoe is at +hand; and although we ordinary mortals could not be expected to +attain to that perfection of skill which the Indians exhibit in +the manufacture of these canoes, we nevertheless can succeed +sufficiently well to answer all practical purposes. The Indian +canoes are often perfect marvels of skill and combined strength and +lightness. These half-civilized beings seem to take as naturally to +the making of these commodities, as if it were almost an hereditary +habit with them; and few men, even with the most exhaustive practice, +can compete with the Indian in the combined result of strength, +lightness, durability, external beauty, and nicety of work, which +are the united characteristics of the typical bark canoe. + +The average length of the "Bark," as used by trappers, is about +twelve feet, but they may be constructed of any desired dimensions, +to the length of forty feet. A canoe of this size will carry fifteen +or twenty persons, and may be transported with ease upon the shoulders +of two strong men. The smaller size, above mentioned, is capable +of carrying two persons, and is a light load for a single man. + +[Illustration] + +In constructing the bark canoe the first requisite is the gunwale, +or upper framework. This should consist of four strips of cedar, +ash, or other light, strong wood; two for each side of the boat. +For an ordinary sized canoe, their length should be about twelve +feet, width one inch, and thickness one-quarter of an inch. They +should be tied together in pairs at the ends, and the two pairs +then joined at the same place. The object of +[Page 262] +these pieces is to give strength and form to the canoe, and to +offer a firm security for the edges of the bark, which are secured +between them. The gunwale being prepared, we are now ready for +the birch bark. The bottom of a well made canoe should be in one +large piece, as our illustration indicates, if possible. Select +some large tree with the trunk free from knots or excrescences. +Mark off as great a length as possible, and chop a straight cut +in the bark through the whole length of the piece, after which +it should be carefully peeled from the wood. It will sometimes +happen, where large birches exist in perfection, that a single +piece may be found of sufficient size for a whole canoe, but this +is rather exceptional, and the bottom is generally pieced out, +as seen in our drawing. This piecing may be accomplished with an +awl and Indian twine, or by the aid of a large needle threaded +with the same, sewing with an over-and-over stitch around the edge +of each piece. Use as large pieces as are attainable, and continue +to sew them on until the arca of bark measures about four and a +half feet in width by twelve feet in length, the dark colored sides +of the bark all facing the same way. Next select a fiat piece of +ground, and mark off a distance of ten feet, or two feet less than +the length of the gunwales. At each end of the space two tall stakes +should be driven into the ground about three inches apart. Now +turn the bark on the ground with its white side uppermost, and +fold it loosely and evenly through the long centre. In this folded +condition it should now be lifted by the upper edge and set between +the stakes. There will then be about a foot of projecting bark +beyond each pair of stakes. These ends should now be covered by +folding another piece of bark over them, sewing the edges firmly +to the sides of the rude form of the canoe, which now presents +itself. When this is done, each end should be supported on a log +or stone; this will cause the bottom line to sink downwards at +about the proper curve. We are now ready for the gunwale. Lay it +in the proper position, fitting the edges of the bark between the +two strips on each side, and sewing around the whole with a winding +stitch, exactly after the manner of the edge of an ordinary palm-leaf +fan. The inside of the canoe should now be lined with long strips +of cedar running through the entire length of the boat if possible, +but if not, should be so cut as to neatly overlap at the ends. +These pieces should be an inch or two in width, and from a quarter +to half an inch-in thickness. The ribs are then to be put in. These +are generally made from ash, one or two inches in width, and +[Page 263] +a quarter of an inch in thickness. Any light flexible wood will +answer the purpose, and even barrel hoops when attainable will do +very well. These ribs should be bent to fit the interior of the +canoe crosswise, either close together, or with equal distances +between them and the ends should then be firmly secured beneath the +gunwales by a continuous loop-stitch through the bark. For a canoe +of twelve feet in length, the width should be about two feet, and in +order to keep the gunwales firm, two or more cross-pieces should +be inserted, and lashed firmly at their ends as our illustration +shows. The centre third of the length of the canoe should be parallel +at the sides, and if two braces, two feet in length are placed at +each end of this third, the shape will be about perfect. We now +have a bark canoe of considerable strength and durability, and +it only awaits to be made water-proof for final use. In order to +accomplish this all the seams outside, and the entire interior of +the canoe should, be smeared with pitch, after which its floating +qualities may be tested with confidence. Should any leaks occur their +where-abouts are easily detected, and an additional application +of pitch will remedy the difficulty. The Indians in sewing their +bark canoes use tamarack roots, fibrous plants, and grasses, in +lieu of thread, and even with these inferior materials often attain +to such perfection in compact sewing, as to render the use of pitch +unnecessary for water-proof purposes. Such skill is rarely attained +by the white man, and the art of making a water-proof canoe, even +out of a single piece of bark, is by no means an easy task without +the aid of tar or pitch. + +[Page 264] +For the trapper we strongly recommend the birch "bark." With the +above directions we are sure no one could go astray, and we are +equally sure that a canoe made as we describe, would present advantages +of lightness and portability which no other style of boat would +possess. For temporary purposes, canoes can be made from basswood, +hemlock, or spruce bark; but they are at best, very rude and clumsy +in comparison with the birch bark. They are generally made after +the principles of the above described; either sewing or nailing +the edges of the bark together, and smearing every joint and seam +profusely with pitch, and adding gunwales, lining, and ribs. + + +A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT. + +The following gives an easy method of making a light and serviceable +bateau, which any boy, with moderate ingenuity or skill, could +easily construct:-- + +Select two boards, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, +eighteen or twenty inches in width, and twelve feet in length, +which we will consider the required length of the boat. These boards +should be well seasoned, and free from knots, and at least one of +the sides should be straight. + +Next, with the aid of a draw-shave, proceed to shape the ends of +one of the boards, as seen on our diagram, (_e_) representing the +forward, (_g_) the stern. The curve of the bow should commence at +about four feet from the end, and take a rounded slope upward, +leaving about ten inches of width at the end of the board (_e_). +The stern should be cut at the angle shown at (_g_), commencing +at about two and a half feet from the extremity of the board and +continuing upward to about ten inches from the upper edge. The +board thus shaped should now be laid evenly on the other, and the +outline of the cut portions carefully scratched upon it, after +which the second board should be cut in a similar manner as the +first, so as to form an exact duplicate. + +This being accomplished, the two should be laid evenly, one over +the other, and the exact center of their long edges ascertained. +Marking off about five inches on each side of this centre on both +boards. + +[Illustration] + +Next procure another board about ten inches in width, three feet +in length, and perfectly squared at the ends. Nail each end of +this piece securely and squarely in the space marked on each of +the long boards. Then turn the pieces carefully over and +[Page 265] +nail another board across the bottom, directly opposite the first. +We will now leave them and give our attention to the bow piece, +which is the next requisite. This is shown at (_a_), and consists +of a solid piece of oak, or other hard wood, well seasoned, and +hewn out in the arrow shape, indicated in our illustration. It +should first be cut three-cornered, the inside face being about +eight inches, and the other two ten inches. Its length should be +about eleven inches, and its under side should be sloped off on a +line with the under curve of the bows. At about five inches from +the inner face, and on each side, a piece should be sawn out, one +inch in thickness, thus leaving on each side a notch which will +exactly receive the side-boards of the boat, as seen at (_a_). + +[Illustration] + +The piece being thus ready, the bow ends of the boards should be +drawn together, fitted in the notches and securely spiked with +large nails. A bow piece of this kind adds greatly to the strength +of a boat, and will stand much rough usage. The board for the stem +should next be prepared. This should be ten inches in width and two +feet in length, and should be securely nailed between the ends of the +boards at the stem, as shown at (_g_), being afterwards overlapped +on the top by a board of similar size, as our illustration shows, +at (_c_). The bottom of the boat is now easily made by nailing +boards crosswise, sawing off the projecting ends close to the curve +of the side-boards. After the pieces are all nailed in place, the +seams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, using a blunt chisel, +or hard wooden wedge, and a mallet. The seats should now be put +in, as these are not only a matter of comfort, but of necessity, +acting as braces to the sides of the boat. They should be two in +number, one being placed three feet from the stern and the other +one foot beyond the brace board originally nailed across the top +of the boat. The seats should be cut at the ends in a curve +corresponding to the part of the boat in which they are placed, +and should be situated about a foot from the bottom of the boat, +their ends resting on short boards beneath them against the sides +of the boat. These are indicated by the dotted lines (_h h_) in +[Page 266] +the diagram. When thus resting they should be securely fastened in +place by strong screws, driven through the sides of the boat into +their ends (_f f_), allowing some one to sit on the seat meanwhile +to keep it in place. Small cleats should now be tacked to the bottom +of the boat, beneath the seat and underneath the seat itself, in +order to keep the props in place; after which the original brace +board across the top of the boat may be knocked off and the bateau +is complete and ready for service. A boat thus made is quite comely +in shape, and may be painted to suit the fancy. Should a rudder +be required, the broad board at the stern offers a good place of +attachment, and oar-locks may be adjusted at the proper places. +These may consist of a pair of cleats attached to the inside of +the boat, as seen in the illustration. In case it may be found +difficult to obtain the large single boards for the sides of the +boat, two or more narrow ones will answer the purpose, although +not as perfectly. In this case they should first be firmly attached +together by cleats, securely screwed to the inside. When first put +on the water the boat will probably leak in places, but if left +to soak for a few hours the wood will generally swell sufficiently +to completely close the crevices. If, however, the leak should +continue, that particular part of the boat should be re-caulked +and smeared with pitch. This latter substance is of great value +to the trapper, not only in boat building but in the construction +of his shanties and in other various ways. It will most effectually +stop almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should always +be applied hot. + + +[Page 267] +THE SCOW. + +The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow for +considerable speed in the water, either in rowing or sculling; +but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed bows +may be dispensed with, and the sides of the boat made perfectly +straight. In this case the bottom takes equal slopes at the ends, +and both bow and stern are of the same width, and an ordinary +flat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result. In many cases +a scow of this kind answers every purpose, and is certainly much +more easily made. + +We have thus described a few of the most common instances of boats +used by trappers, and with our full description and illustrations +no one can go astray. A boat of some kind is almost an indispensable +requisite to the trapper, and anyone of the foregoing will be found +sufficient for all ordinary purposes. + +A paddle may be used, and in shallow or muddy water a pusher or +mud-stick will be found useful. This should consist of a pole seven +or eight feet in length, supplied at the ends with an attachment of +the shape of the letter U. This may be constructed in two pieces, +firmly screwed to opposite sides of the end of the pole, and so +formed as to present a curved crotch. Such a stick will be found +very useful for pushing through weeds and muddy places. A simple +pole trimmed so as to leave a crotch at the end will also answer +the purpose very well. + + +SNOW-SHOES. + +These commodities are almost indispensable to the trapper where +he pursues his vocation in the winter time, during the prevalence +of deep snows. When properly made they permit the wearer to walk +over the surface of the snow with perfect ease; where, without +them, travel would be extremely difficult if not impossible. + +In the regions of perpetual snow, and also in Canada and neighboring +districts, snow-shoes are very commonly worn. In the latter localities +the "snow-shoe race" forms one of the favorite sports of the season, +and young and old alike join in its mysteries. Like riding on the +velocipede, walking on snow-shoes looks "easy enough," but we notice +that a few somersaults are usually a convincing argument that the art +is not as simple as it appears. The first experience on snow-shoes +[Page 268] +is apt to be at least undignifying, if not discouraging, and in order +to get used to the strange capers and eccentricities of an ordinarily +well-behaved snow shoe, it requires considerable patience and practice. +There is no telling where, in an unguarded moment, they will land +you, and they seem to take especial delight in stepping on each +other and turning their wearer upside down. The principal secret +of success (and one may as well know it at the start, as to learn +it at the expense of a pint of snow down his back) consists in +taking steps sufficiently long to bring the widest portion of the +stepping shoe beyond that of the other, keeping the feet rather +far apart and stepping pretty high. By observing these precautions, +and trusting in Providence, much embarrassment may be saved, and +an hour's effort will thoroughly tame the unruly appendages, which +at best do not permit of much grace or elegance of gait. + +To the moose hunter snow-shoes are often an absolute necessity, +and trapping in many cases would be impossible without them. They +are thus brought fully within the scope of our volume, and we give +a few simple directions for their manufacture. Our illustration +gives the correct shape of the shoe. The framework should consist +of a strip of ash, hickory or some other elastic wood, bent into +the form indicated and wound around the ends with twine or strips +of hide. The length of the piece should be about six feet, more +or less, in proportion to the size of the individual who proposes +to wear the shoe. If the bending should prove difficult it may +be rendered an easy matter by the application of boiling water. +Across the front part two strips of stout leather, or other tough +hide, are then fastened, and these further secured together by three +or four bands on each side of the middle, as our drawing shows. + +In the original Indian snow-shoe, from which our drawing was made, +the net work was constructed from strips of moose hide, which were +interlaced much after the manner of an ordinary cane-seated chair. +Strips of leather, deer skin, or even split cane, above alluded to, +may also be used, and the lacing may be either as our illustration +represents, or in the simpler rectangular woof seen in ordinary +cloth. + +In order to attach the interlacing to the bow the latter should be +wound with wide strips of cane, if it can be procured, or otherwise +with strips of tough skin. The loops thus formed offer a continuous +security, and the whole interior, with the exception of the space +at the front between the cross pieces, should be neatly filled +with the next work. It is well to run the first lines +[Page 269] +across the shoe, from side to side, passing through the windings +of the bow. Across them, in the form of the letter X, the two other +cords should be interlaced, after the manner shown in the cut. +This forms a secure and not very complicated network, and is the +style usually adopted by the Indian makers. + +[Illustration] + +There is another mode of attaching the lace-work to the bow which +is also commonly employed, and consists in a series of holes bored +at regular intervals through the wood. The winding is thus dispensed +with, but the bow is sometimes weakened by the operation, and we are +inclined to recommend the former method in preference. In attaching +the shoe, the ball of the foot should be set on the second cross +piece, and there secured by a strip of hide, which should be first +adjusted as seen in the engraving, being afterward tied over the +foot and then behind the ankle. Snow-shoes are made in other ways, +but we believe that the typical Indian snow-shoe above described +is the best. + + +THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE. + +For winter traffic over deep snows there is no better sled in the +world than the Indian toboggan. To the trapper during a winter +campaign it is often an indispensable convenience, and without +it the Indian hunters of the North would find great difficulty in +getting their furs to market. All through the winter season the +various trading posts of Canada are constantly visited by numbers +of Indian trappers, many of whom have travelled hundreds of miles +on their snow-shoes with their heavily laden toboggans. Arrived at +[Page 270] +their market they sell or trade their stock of furs, and likewise +dispose of their toboggans, reserving only their snow-shoes to aid +them in their long tramp homewards. + +[Illustration] + +In Canada and northward the toboggan is in very extensive use, both +for purposes of traffic and amusement. It is quite commonly met +with in the streets of various Canadian cities, and is especially +appreciated by the youthful population, who are fond of coasting +over the crust of snow. For this purpose there is no other sled +like it, and a toboggan of the size we shall describe will easily +accommodate two or three boys, and will glide over a crust of snow +with great ease and rapidity. To the trapper it is especially valuable +for all purposes of transportation. The flat bottom rests upon +the surface of the snow, and the weight being thus distributed +a load of two or three hundred pounds will often make but little +impression and can be drawn with marvellous ease. Our illustration +gives a very clear idea of the sled, and it can be made in the +following way: the first requisite is a board about eight feet +in length and sixteen or more inches in width. Such a board may +be procured at any saw mill. Oak is the best wood for the purpose, +although hickory, basswood or ash will do excellently. It should +be planed or sawed to a thickness of about a third of an inch, +and should be free from knots. If a single board of the required +width is not easily found, two boards may be used, and secured +side by side by three cleats, one at each end and the other in +the middle, using wrought nails and clinching them deeply into the +board on the under side. The single board is much to be preferred, +if it can be had. The next requisites are seven or eight wooden +cross-pieces of a length equivalent to the width of the board. +Four old broom-sticks, cut in the required lengths, will answer +[Page 271] +this purpose perfectly, and if these are not at hand other sticks +of similar dimensions should be used. Two side pieces are next +needed. These should be about five feet in length, and in thickness +exactly similar to the cross pieces. Next procure a few pairs of +leather shoe-strings or some strips of tough calf skin. With these +in readiness we may now commence the work of putting the parts +together. Begin by laying the cross pieces at equal distances along +the board; across these and near their ends lay the two side pieces, +as seen in the illustration. By the aid of a gimlet or awl, four +holes should now be made through the board, beneath the end of each +cross piece, and also directly under the side piece. It is well to +mark with a pencil, the various points for the holes, after which +the sticks can be removed and the work much more easily performed. +The four holes should be about an inch apart, or so disposed as to +mark the four corners of a square inch. It is also necessary to +make other holes along the length of the cross pieces, as seen +in the illustration. The line on these can also be marked with +the pencil across the board, and the holes made afterwards. These +should also be an inch apart, and only two in number at each point, +one on each side of the stick. When all the holes are made the +board should be turned over, in order to complete preparations +on the other side. The object of these various holes is for the +passage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose of securing +the cross pieces firmly to the board. In order to prevent these +loops from wearing off on the under side, small grooves should next +be made connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing the leather +string to sink into the wood, where it is securely protected from +injury. A narrow chisel is the best tool for this purpose, the making +of the grooves being much more easily and perfectly accomplished +with this than with the jack-knife. When the under side is thus +finished the board may be turned over and the cross pieces and +sides again arranged in place as already described. Secure the +pieces to the board by the leather strings through the various +holes, always knotting on the upper surface, and taking care that +the knots are firmly tied. The ends of all the cross pieces will +require a double cross stitch through the four holes beneath, in +order to secure the side pieces as well. This is plainly shown in +the small diagram (_a_). The front end of each side piece underneath +should now be sharpened to a point, to allow for the bend at the +front of the toboggan. The cross piece at this end should be secured +to the under side of the board, so that as it bends over it will +appear on the upper edge, as our illustration shows. The board should +[Page 272] +next be bent with a graceful curve, and thus held in position by a +rope or strip of leather at each extremity of the end cross piece and +attached to the ends of the third cross piece, as seen in the engraving. +If the bending is difficult and there is danger of breaking the board, +the application of boiling water will render it pliable. The draw +strings should then be attached to the ends of the second cross piece, +and our toboggan is now complete. + +It may now be laden with two or three hundred pounds of merchandize +and will be found to draw over the surface of the snow with perfect +ease. For coasting over the crust there is nothing like it. Such a +toboggan as we have described will easily accommodate three boys, +the one at the stern being provided with a sharp stick for steering, +and the front occupant holding firmly to the draw strings. The +toboggan is easily made, and will do good service either for traffic +or sport. + + +CURING SKINS. + +This department of the trapper's art is one of the most important +and necessary, as affecting pecuniary profits. The value of a skin +in the fur market depends entirely upon the care with which it +is taken from the animal and afterward prepared, and without a +knowledge on this subject the young trapper will in vain seek for +high prices for his furs. Large quantities of valuable skins are +sent to our markets annually by inexperienced amateur trappers, +and in many cases rare and beautiful furs have been almost spoiled +by want of care in skinning and curing. The rules are simple and +easily followed, a little care being all that is necessary to insure +most perfect success. In every case the skin should be removed +shortly after death, or at least before it has become tainted with +decay. Great pains should be taken in skinning. Avoid the adherence +of flesh or fat to the skin, and guard against cutting through the +hide, as a pierced skin is much injured in value. The parts about +the eyes, legs and ears should be carefully removed. The various +methods of skinning are described in our section on trapping, and +in all cases the furs should be allowed to dry in a cool, airy +place, free from the rays of the sun or the heat of a fire, and +protected from rain. + +Astringent preparations of various kinds are used by many trappers, +but they are by no means necessary. The most common dressing consists +of equal parts of rock salt and alum dissolved in water. Into this +a sufficient amount of coarse flour or wheat bran is stirred to give +[Page 273] +the mixture the consistency of batter, after which it is spread +thickly over the skin and allowed to dry. + +It is afterwards scraped off, and in some cases a second application +is made. This preparation is much used in dressing beaver, otter, +mink and muskrat skins, but as many of our most successful and +experienced trappers do without it, we fail to see the advantage of +using it, as it is only an extra trouble. The simplest and surest +way is to stretch the skin and to submit it to a gradual process +of natural drying without any artificial heat or application of +astringents to hasten the result. + +A very common mode of stretching skins consists in tacking them to +a board, with the fur inwards, and allowing them to dry as already +described. + +This method does very well for small skins, but for general purposes +the "stretchers" are the only means by which a pelt may be properly +cured and prepared. + + +STRETCHERS. + +The board stretcher is the simplest form and is in most common use +among trappers for the smaller animals. These stretchers are of +two kinds, the plain and the wedged. The plain stretcher consists +of a piece of board a quarter of an inch in thickness, about eighteen +inches long and six inches in width. One end of this board is rounded +off, as seen in our illustration, and the sides should also be +whittled and smoothed to a blunt edge. + +[Illustration] + +The board stretchers are used only for those skins which are taken +off whole, that is, as described in the chapter on the otter. The +skin should be drawn tightly over the blunt end of the board, and +its edges either caught in notches cut in the edges of the square +end or secured by a few tacks. This stretcher is particularly +[Page 274] +adapted to the skins of muskrats, minks and animals of a like size. +They are known in New England as "shingle stretchers," and are much +to be recommended on account of their lightness and the ease with +which they can be made and carried. + +The wedge stretcher is rather more elaborate than the foregoing, +and is said to be an improvement. + +[Illustration] + +The first requisite is a board of about three-eighths of an inch in +thickness, two feet or more in length, and three and a half inches +at one end tapering to the width of two inches at the other. This +end should now be rounded, and the edges of the board whittled off +to a blunt edge, as already described in the foregoing, commencing +near the centre of the board, and thinning to the edge, and finishing +with the notches at the square end. Now, by the aid of a rip-saw, +sever the board through the middle lengthwise. + +The wedge is the next thing to be constructed, and should consist +of a piece of wood the thickness of the centre of the board and +of the same length, tapering from an inch in width at one end to +half an inch at the other. + +To use the stretcher the two boards are inserted into the skin, +(the latter with the fur side inward). The wedge is then inserted +between the large ends of the boards and driven in sufficiently to +stretch the pelt to its full capacity, securing it in the notches +by slight cuts in the hide, or by a tack or two at the edge. It +should then he hung in a cool, airy place, and the pelt left to +"season." + +The bow stretcher is another contrivance very commonly used for +small skins like the foregoing. When this is used the pelt should +be skinned as described on page 185, the initial cut commencing +at the lower jaw and extending down between the fore legs, all +the feet being previously cut off. The bow may consist of a switch +of any elastic wood such as hickory iron wood, elm or birch. It +should be about three or more feet in length, and as large as a +man's thumb at the butt end. By bending it in the shape of the +letter U it may easily be inserted in the skin, the latter being +[Page 275] +fastened by catching the lip on each side into a sliver notch cut on +each end of the bow, as our illustration indicates. + +[Illustration] + +For large animals, such as the deer, bear, beaver, the hoop stretcher +is generally employed. + + +THE HOOP STRETCHER. + +This consists of a hoop made from one or more flexible switches +tied together so as to form a circle. In order to be adapted to +this mode of stretching, the skin should be flat, _i. e._ taken +off as described on page 172, the initial cut extending from the +lower jaw to the vent. The size of the hoop required depends upon +the dimensions of the skin. Lay the latter upon some flat surface +and so gauge the hoop as that it shall surround the pelt on all +sides; after which the latter should be secured or laced to the +hoop with twine at the edges. All loose parts should be drawn up, +and the skin should everywhere be stretched like a drum head. When +this is accomplished it is the custom with many trappers to apply +the preparation described on page 273, particularly where the skin +is thick and fatty. But we are rather disposed to discourage the +use of any preparation whatever, in any case, as they are by no +means necessary. + +In using the board stretchers the fur should always be on the inside, +and when the hoop or bow is used it should be placed in such a +position, that the air may circulate freely on both sides of the +skin, which should not be removed until thoroughly dry. + + +[Page 276] +TANNING SKINS. + +In case some of our readers might desire to tan fur skins for their +own domestic purposes, the subjoined directions will be found to be +reliable, and for all ordinary requirements, sufficiently adequate. + +For tanning with the hair on, the skin should first be cleaned, +every particle of loose fat or flesh, being removed, and the useless +parts cut away. When this is done, it should be soaked for an hour +or two in warm water. The following mixture should then be prepared: +Take equal parts of borax, saltpetre, and sulphate of soda, and +with them mix water sufficient to produce the consistency of thin +batter. + +This preparation should be painted thickly on the flesh side of +the skin, after which these sides should be doubled together and +the pelt left in an airy place. + +A second mixture should next be prepared. This should consist of +two parts sal soda; three parts borax; four parts castile or other +hard soap: all to be melted together over a slow fire. At the end +of twenty-four hours, after the application of the first mixture, +the second should be applied in a similar manner, and the fur again +folded and left for the same length of time. Next, make a mixture +equal parts of salt and alum, dissolved in warm water and thickened +with coarse flour to the consistency of thin paste. Spread this thickly +over the skin and allow it to dry, after which it should be scraped +off with the bowl of a spoon. The skin should be tightly stretched +during the operation, in order to prevent too great shrinkage. A +single application of the last-named dressing, is generally sufficient +for small skins; but a second or third treatment may be resorted +to if required, to make the skin soft and pliable, after which it +should be finished off with sand-paper and pumice stone. A skin +may be thus dressed as soft as velvet, and the alum and salt will +set the hair securely. + +The above directions are excellent, for all general purposes, but +we subjoin, in addition, a few other valuable hints and specific +recipes in common use. Every trapper has his own peculiar hobby +in regard to his tanning process, and the recipes are various and +extensive. The above is one of the most reliable for general use. +A common mode of tanning mink and muskrat skins is given in the +following:-- + + +TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS. + +Before tanning, the skin should always be thoroughly cleansed +[Page 277] +in warm water, and all fat and superfluous flesh removed. It should +then be immersed in a solution made of the following ingredients: +Five gallons of cold soft water; five quarts wheat bran; one gill +of salt; and one ounce of sulphuric acid. Allow the skins to soak in +the liquid for four or five hours. If the hides have been previously +salted, the salt should be excluded from the mixed solution. The +skins are now ready for the tanning liquor, which is made in the +following way: into five gallons of warm, soft water, stir one peck +of wheat bran and allow the mixture to stand in a warm room until +fermentation takes place. Then add three pints of salt, and stir until +it is thoroughly dissolved. A pint of sulphuric acid should then be +poured in gradually, after which the liquor is ready. Immerse the +skins and allow them to soak for three or four hours. The process +of "fleshing" is then to be resorted to. This consists in laying the +skin, fur side down, over some smooth beam, and working over the +flesh side with a blunt fleshing tool. An old chopping knife, or +tin candlestick, forms an excellent substitute for the ordinary +fleshing knife, and the process of rubbing should be continued +until the skin becomes dry, after which it will be found to be +soft and pliable. The skin of the muskrat is quite tender, and the +fleshing should be carefully performed. + + +HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, AND MARTEN. + +These should be stretched on a board and smeared with a mixture +composed of three ounces each, of salt and alum; three gills of +water, and one drachm of sulphuric acid. This should be thickened +with wheat bran or flour, and should be allowed to dry on the skin, +after which it should be scraped off with a spoon. Next, take the +skin from the board, roll it with the fur inside, and draw it quickly +backward and forward, over a smooth peg, or through an iron ring. +The skin should then be unfolded and rolled again the opposite +way, and the operation repeated until the pelt is quite soft and +flexible. This is a good way of softening all kinds of skins, and +the above preparation will be found excellent for all ordinary +purposes. The muskrat skin may be treated in the same manner as +the above, if desired, and the process directed on the muskrat +skin may also be applied to the pelts of the other animals. + +To remove the fur for a simple tanned skin, the hide should be +immersed in a liquid composed of--soft water, five gallons; slaked +lime, four quarts; and wood ashes, four quarts. Allow +[Page 278] +the skin to soak for a couple of days, after which the fur will +readily slip off. + +Another method--take equal parts wood ashes and slaked lime, and +add water to the consistency of batter. Spread this over the inside +of the skin, roll it up, and place it in a pail, covering it with +water. Here let it remain from one to five days, or until the hair +will shed easily, after which it should be finished with the fleshing +knife and velveted with sand paper. + + +OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE. + +In all cold climates, man has availed himself liberally of the +warm covering with which nature has clothed the animals around +him; but the wealth of the most favored nations has drawn to them +the most beautiful furs, in whatever part of the world they are +procured. Skins of animals were among the first materials used +for clothing. Before Adam and Eve were driven from the Garden of +Eden, they were furnished with coats of skins. The ancient Assyrians +used the soft skins of animals to cover the couches or the ground +in their tents, and the Israelites employed badger's skins and +ram's skins, as ornamental hangings for the Tabernacle. The ancient +heroes of the Greeks and Romans, are represented as being clothed +in skins. AEneas, wearing for an outer garment, that of the lion, +and Alcestes being formidably clad in that of the Libyan Bear. +Herodotus speaks of those living near the Caspian Sea wearing seal +skins, and Caesar mentions that the skin of the reindeer formed in +part the clothing of the Germans. In the early period, furs appear +to have constituted the entire riches of the Northern countries, +and they were almost the only exports. Taxes were paid on them, +and they were the medium of exchange. So it was also in our own +Western territories in the latter part of the last century, and is +to the present day, to a great extent, among the Indians. In the +eleventh century, furs had become fashionable throughout Europe, +and the art of dyeing them, was practiced in the twelfth. In the +history of the Crusades, frequent mention is made of the magnificent +displays by the European Princes, of their dresses of costly furs, +before the Court at Constantinople. But Richard I. of England, and +Philip II. of France, in order to check the growing extravagance +in their use, resolved that the choicer furs, ermine and sable +amongst the number, should be omitted from their kingly wardrobes. +Louis IX. followed their example in the next century, but not +[Page 279] +until his extravagance had grown to such a pitch, that _seven hundred +and forty-six_ ermines were required for the _lining_ of one of his +_surcoats_. In the times, the use of the choicer furs, as those +of the sable, ermine, gris, and Hungarian squirrel, was restricted +to the royal families and the nobility, to whom they served as +distinctive marks and badges of rank. These privileged persons +applied them lavishly to their own use, and the fashion extended +to the princes of other less civilized nations. Their royal use +soon extended to Tartary, and the tents of the Khan were bedecked +with the most rich and costly furs. In the following century, furs +were commonly worn in England until their use was prohibited by +Edward III., to all persons whose purse would not warrant a yearly +expenditure of L100. + +The early fur trade of Western Europe, was conducted through the +merchants on the south coast of the Baltic, who received goods from +the ports of Livonia. In the sixteenth century, a direct trade was +opened between the English and Russians; and a company of the former, +protected by the Czar, established trading posts on the White Sea, +and a warehouse at Moscow, whence they sent trading parties to +Persia and the countries on the Caspian Sea. The Czar sent rich +presents of beautiful furs, to Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth; +but the latter prohibited the wearing of any but native furs, and +the trade soon declined and was abandoned. In the 17th century, +Siberia was conquered by the Russians, and its tribute was paid +in furs. Large quantities were also furnished to China, but the +choicest kinds--the precious ermine, the brilliant, fiery foxes, and +the best sables, were taken to Moscow, for the use of the princes +and nobles of Russia, Turkey, and Persia. + +In our own country, the early settlers of the Northern provinces, +soon learned the value of the furs of the numerous animals which +peopled the extensive rivers, lakes, and forests of these vast +territories. They collected the skins in abundance, and found an +increasing demand for them, with every new arrival of immigrants +from the mother country. Trinkets, liquors, and other articles +sought for by the native tribes, were shipped to Quebec, and from +thence up the St. Lawrence to Montreal, which soon became the great +trading post of the country. The various tribes of Indians were +stimulated by trifling compensation, to pursue their only congenial +and peaceful occupation; and the French settlers, readily assimilating +to the Indian habits, became themselves expert hunters, trappers, +and explorers. + +The business prospered, and the English soon became interested and +secured a share of the valuable trade. Many +[Page 280] +wealthy and influential parties, connected with the government +of Great Britain,--Prince Rupert and Lord Ashley, among the +number--became deeply interested in this source of revenue; and +after a successful enterprise, they obtained from Charles II., a +charter of incorporation, giving to them full possession of the +territory within the entrance of Hudson's Straits, not already granted +to other subjects, or possessed by those of any other Christian +prince or State. In this charter was included the monopoly, of all +trade in these regions, and thus we see the origin of the Great +Hudson's Bay Company, which is to-day, one of the largest organizations +of its kind on the globe. The territory they claimed, extended +from Hudson's Bay, west to the Pacific, and north to the Arctic +Ocean, excepting that occupied by the French and Russians. They +soon formed settlements upon the various rivers which empty into +Hudson's Bay, and carried on their operations with immense vigor +and success. They met with much opposition and open hostility from +the French, and were subjected to vast expenses and losses, but in +spite of all, they continued to prosper. Their forts or factories +were extended further into the interior of British America, and +their power was supreme throughout the country, and in a great +measure over the Indians, whom they employed to collect their skins. +In the course of time, the French Canadians organized themselves +into a united band, under the name of the North West Company, and +established their headquarters at Montreal. Their operations were +carried on with great energy and profit, and many factories were +built in the western portion of the Province. The company thus soon +became a formidable competitor with the Hudson's Bay Company and +for a period of two years, an actual state of war existed between +them. This condition of affairs finally terminated in a consolidation +of the two organizations, under the name of the Hudson's Bay Company, +the privileges of which extended over all the territory formerly +occupied by both. + +Thus, we have the history of the famous Hudson's Bay Company, from +its origin to its perfect organization. It is a most stupendous +concern, and its annual shipment of furs, is something amazing. +Their great sales take place in the month of March, in order to +be completed before Easter; and again in September, every year +at London, and are attended by purchasers from nearly all parts +of the world. Leipsic, the famous fur mart of Germany, is also +the scene of a great annual fair, for the sale of skins. + +The importance of the fur trade in this country, led to the +[Page 281] +early settlement of the Western territories of the United States; +and many a frontier city, like St. Paul, has been built up by the +enterprise of the trapper. Mackinaw and Montreal owe much of their +growth to the traffic of the fur trade; and many a kingly fortune--John +Jacob Astor's, for instance--has been founded on peltry. + +Besides the above fur sales in London a moderate portion of those +annually collected in the United States are retained for use, amounting +to about 150,000 mink and 750,000 muskrat skins, besides a number +of other furs which are manufactured and worn. + +The annual yield of raw furs throughout the whole world is estimated +at over twenty millions of dollars in value; and when we include +the manufactured articles therefrom, the amount will swell to a +hundred millions or over. This will serve to give some idea of +the immensity and value of the business. + +American dealers divide our native furs into two classes, viz., +_home_ and _shipping_ furs; the former being chiefly utilized in +our own country, while the latter are exported to all parts of +the world. New York City is the great fur mart and depot for the +shipping trade in this country, and the annual value of its exports, +in this one branch of trade is enormous. + +The principal shipping furs are the silver, red and cross Fox, Wild +Cat, Raccoon, Fisher, Muskrat and Skunk. + +Among the home furs are the Marten, Mink, Opossum, Wolf and Muskrat, +the latter being extensively used both here and abroad. + +In the following chapter will be found more detailed notes on the +leading American furs, including their various uses and the different +countries for which they are the especial staples. + +In order to give the reader some idea of the variety and magnitude +of the yield of furs from our own country, we annex a table (p. +282) showing the sales of the Hudson's Bay Company, at London, +in the year 1873. + + +MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS. + +Below will be found an authentic table of the comparative values +of the various American furs at the present date of publication. +The quotations are those of one of our largest fur dealers, as +published in "THE HAT, CAP AND FUR TRADE REVIEW," the leading journal +of the trade in America. Of course these values are constantly +varying--keeping pace with the eccentricities of fashion and the +demands of the fur trade; but +[Page 282] +the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values, as +between the two extremes of common and scarce furs. The fur market +is a great deal like the stock market. It is constantly fluctuating, +and a fur which is to-day among the novelties, may next year find +itself on the low priced list. The demand for furs of any kind +is nearly always governed by fashion, and of course the value is +estimated on the demand. If the convention of fur dealers should +decide to usher in _Muskrat fur_ as the leading and most fashionable +article in that line, the fashion would create the demand, the +demand would be in turn supplied by the trappers throughout the +country, and in proportion as the Muskrat skins became scarce, +so their value would increase. In this way a skin which may be +worth fifty cents at one time may soon acquire a value of twenty +times that amount. The comparative value of skins is, therefore, +constantly varying more or less; but the annexed table (page 283) +will be found useful for general reference, and for approximate +figures, will probably answer every purpose for some time to come. + + ========================================================================== + | No. of | No. of | | |Estimated + | Skins. | Skins. | Total | Price according to | average + KINDS. | March | Sept. | No. | quality. |price per + | Sale. | Sale. | | | skin. + ------------|---------|---------|---------|------------------------------- + | | | | | L s. d. + Badger | 2,700 | | 2,700 | 1s. to 7s. | 1 06 + Bear | 5,217 | 2,794 | 8,011 | 5s. to L8 l0s. | 5 0 00 + Beaver | 111,993 | 37,052 | 149,045 | 4S. 3d. to 38s. 6d. | 1 00 00 + Fisher | 2,843 | 779 | 3,622 | 8s. to L3 5s. | 2 10 00 + Fox, Blue | 90 | | 90 | 18s. to L4. | 2 10 00 + " Cross | 1,818 | 471 | 2,289 | 5s. to L4. | 1 10 00 + " Kitt | 6,930 | | 6,930 | 2s. 8d. to 28s. 10d.| 3 00 + " Red | 6,914 | 1,383 | 8,297 | 4s. 6d. to 17s. | 10 00 + " Silver | 540 | 148 | 688 | L3 10s. to L21. | 10 00 00 + " White | 7,312 | | 7,312 | 2s. to 14s. 9d. | 7 00 + Lynx | 2,468 | 1,652 | 4,120 | 9s. 6d. to L1 14s. | 18 00 + Marten | 47,878 | 18,955 | 66,833 | 10s. to L3 19s. | 1 10 00 + Mink | 31,802 | 12,896 | 44,698 | 4s. to L1 8s. 6d. | 15 00 + Muskrat | 651,498 | 116,488 | 767,896 | 3d. to 16d. | 00 8 + Otter | 8,571 | 2,681 | 11,252 | 14s. to L3 18s. | 2 10 00 + " Sea | | 98 | 98 | L4 10s. to L32. | 15 00 00 + Rabbit | 10,029 | | 10,029 | 3d. to 4d. | 00 3 + Raccoon | | 3,582 | 3,582 | 1s. to 3s. 3d. | 2 6 + Skunk | 1,691 | | 1,691 | 2s. to 7s. | 4 00 + Wolf | 6,216 | 188 | 6,404 | 6s. to L2 15s. | 15 00 + Wolverine | 1,770 | 320 | 2,090 | 8s. to L1 1s. | 15 00 + ========================================================================== + + +[Page 283] + AMERICAN FUR SKINS--TABLE OF VALUES.[*] + ========================================================================== + | Prime. |Seconds.| Thirds.|Fourths. + --------------------------------------|--------|--------|--------|-------- + Badger | $1.00 | $0.50 | $0.10 | $ + Bear, Black | 18.00 | 9.00 | 1.00 | + " Cub | 10.00 | 5.00 | 1.00 | + " Brown | 7.00 | 4.00 | 1.00 | + Beaver, California per lb. | 1.25 | 75 | 50 | + " Southern | 1.00 | 75 | 40 | + " Upper Missouri | 1.75 | 1.50 | 50 | + " Lake Supr. and Canada. | 2.50 | 1.75 | 75 | + Cat, Wild | 40 | 10 | | + " House | 15 | 10 | | + Deer, Florida per lb. | 20 | | | + " Missouri | 20 | | | + Elk and Moose per lb. | 35 | 25 | | + Fisher, Southern | 7.00 | 5.00 | 1.00 | + " Eastern and Canada | 10.00 | 8.00 | 2.00 | + Fox, Silver | 100.00 | 25.00 | 1.00 | + " Cross | 3.00 | 1.50 | 1.00 | + " Blue | 15.00 | 5.00 | 1.00 | + " White | 3.00 | 1.50 | | + " Red | 1.75 | 1.00 | 75 | 25 + " Gray | 3.00 | 1.50 | 50 | 25 + " Kitt | 50 | 25 | | + Lynx, Minnesota | 2.50 | 1.00 | | + " Canada | 4.00 | 2.00 | | + Marten, Dark | 10.00 | 6.00 | 2.00 | + " Small Pale | 2.00 | 1.00 | 50 | + Mink, Southern | 1.00 | 50 | 25 | 10 + " Western | 1.25 | 1.00 | 50 | 10 + " Middle States | 2.00 | 1.25 | 50 | 10 + " Minnesota | 2.50 | 1.50 | 75 | 20 + " New England | 3.50 | 1.75 | 1.00 | 20 + " Quebec and Halifax | 4.00 | 2.00 | 1.00 | 20 + Muskrat, Southern | 28 | 25 | 15 | 5 + " Western | 30 | 28 | 18 | 6 + " Northern | 32 | 30 | 20 | 8 + " Eastern | 35 | 30 | 22 | 10 + Opossum, Ohio | 30 | 20 | 10 | + " Southern | 20 | 10 | | + Otter, Southern | 5.00 | 3.00 | 2.00 | 50 + " Northern | 10.00 | 6.00 | 2.00 | 50 + Rabbit | 3 | | | + Raccoon, Southern | 50 | 30 | 15 | 5 + " Western | 1.00 | 50 | 20 | 5 + " Michigan | 1.25 | 80 | 30 | 5 + Seal, Hair | 60 | | | + " Fur | 10.00 | | | + Skunk, Black Cased | 1.00 | 60 | 40 | 10 + " Half Stripe | 60 | 50 | 25 | 10 + " White | 20 | 10 | | + Wolf, Timber | 3.00 | 1.50 | | + " Prairie | 1.00 | 75 | | + Wolverine | 5.00 | 2.00 | | + ========================================================================== + +[Footnote *: From the "Hat Cap and Fur Trade Review."] + +[Page 284] +Notwithstanding all these advertised prices, the young trapper +often experiences great difficulty in a profitable disposal of his +furs. Like every other business, the fur trade runs in its regular +grooves, and the average furrier will often pay an experienced +professional five dollars for a skin for which he would not offer +a _dollar_ to an amateur. This certainly seems discouraging, but +the knowledge of the fact is calculated to prevent _greater_ +discouragement. + +We often see fancy prices advertised by fur dealers for first-class +skins; but when the furs are sent, only a few are selected as "_prime_," +the rest being rejected as worthless, or perhaps meeting with a +meagre offer far below the regular rates. In this way the dealers +have the opportunity of choice selection without incurring any +risk. Many a young trapper has been thus disappointed, and has +seen his small anticipated fortune dwindle down to very small +proportions. + +The fur trade is supplied through regular professional channels; +and in giving our advice to the novice, we would recommend as the +most satisfactory and profitable plan that he should make his sales +to some local hunter or trapper, who has had experience with the fur +trade, and who is satisfied to pay a fair price for the various skins +with the probability of selling at an advance, and thus realizing +a profit. + +In nearly every trapping locality such men are to be found, and +although the prices earned may be below the market rates, the amateur +takes none of the speculative risks of the business, and should +be willing to take lower prices on this account. + + +AMERICAN FUR SKINS--THEIR USES AT HOME AND ABROAD. + +In the early history of fur apparel, its use was determined by +_climate_; to-day, and especially in this country, it is regulated +by the caprice of _fashion_. The mink for many years took the lead +in the list of fashionable furs, but has of late been superseded +by the introduction of the fur seal. The most choice and costly +of our American furs at the present day is the Silver Fox. When +highly dressed they are worth from 10 to 50 guineas each in the +European market. They are principally bought by the Russians and +Chinese. + +The skins of the Red Fox are purchased by the Chinese, Greeks, +Persians, and other Oriental nations. They are made into linings +for robes, etc., and ornamented with the black fur of the paws +which is set on in spots or waves. The fur of the +[Page 285] +Beaver was formerly highly prized in the manufacture of hats. and +yielded a large portion of the profits of the Fur Companies, +constituting the largest item in value among furs. Cheaper materials +have since been substituted in making hats, and the demand for +this purpose has been greatly reduced. By a new process the skin +is now prepared as a handsome fur for collars and gauntlets, and +its fine silky wool has been successfully woven. The soft, white +fur from the belly of the animal, is largely used in France for +bonnets. + +Raccoon skins are the great staple for Russia and Germany, where, +on account of their durability and cheapness, they are in demand +for linings for coats, etc. Among the Bear skins, those of the +black and grizzly are extensively used for military caps, housings, +holsters, sleigh robes, etc, + +The fur of the Lynx is soft, warm and light, and is commonly dyed +of a beautiful shining black. It is used for the facings and linings +of cloaks, chiefly in America. + +The Fisher yields a dark and full fur which is largely used in +fashionable winter apparel. + +The skin of the Marten, is richly dyed and utilized in choice furs +and trimmings. + +The Mink, like the two foregoing, belongs to the same genus as +the Russian Sable, and its fur so much resembles the latter as to +be sometimes mistaken for it. It is one of fashion's furs, and the +hair of the tail is sometimes used in the manufacture of artist's +pencils. + +The Muskrat produces the fur most worn by the masses, and is largely +exported into Germany, France and England. It is estimated that +over six millions of muskrat skins are annually taken in America, +and of that number one-half are used in Germany alone. + +The skin of the Otter is at present classed among the leading +fashionable furs in this country. They are dyed of a deep purplish +black color, and are made into sacques, muffs, etc. It is also +used by the Russians, Greeks and Chinese. It is mostly an American +product, but is also procured to some extent in the British Isles +from a smaller variety of the species. + +The skins of the Wolf are chiefly used for sleigh robes and such +purposes. The fur of the Rabbit is mainly employed in the manufacture +of felt, and is also utilized for lining and trimming. The business +of breeding rabbits for their fur has been introduced into the +United States, and large numbers have been successfully raised in +Danbury, Conn., for felting purposes connected with the manufacture +of hats. + +[Page 286] +The fur of the Wolverine or Glutton, finds a market for the most +part in Germany, where it is used for trimmings and cloak linings. + +The Skunk furnishes the fur known as Alaska Sable, which forms +one of our staple pelts, many thousands being annually exported +to Poland and the adjacent provinces. + +The Badger yields a valuable and fashionable fur, which is also +extensively used in the manufacture of artist's brushes; a good +"badger blender" forming a valuable accessory to a painter's outfit. +Shaving brushes by the thousand are annually made from the variegated +hair of the badger. + +The Opossum yields a fur in very common use among the masses, and +the skins of the domestic Cat are utilized to a considerable extent +in the manufacture of robes, mats, etc. The fur of the Puma and Wild +Cat are also employed in this form, and may often be seen handsomely +mounted and hanging on the backs of sleighs on our fashionable +thoroughfares. Among the small game the skins of Squirrels are used +for linings, and the soft, velvety fur of the Mole is manufactured +into light robes, and very fine hats, and in theatrical paraphernalia +is sometimes employed for artificial eyebrows. + +Full descriptions of the color of the various furs will be found +in our lengthy illustrated chapter on our American animals. + +[Illustration: THE END.] + + + + +[Page 289] +[Illustration: INDEX] + +A + +Adirondack experiences with mosquitoes, 256. +Advice to the Novice on the sale of Furs, 283. +Air-tight Jar, for butter, &c., 236. +Alaska Sable, 286.--See also Skunk. +Alcohol, its use and abuse, 257. +Alum--used in waterproofing, 249. +"Amateur Trapping," 225. +AMBER, OIL OF, used in the art of Trapping, 152. +AMERICAN FUR SKINS.--Table of values, 284. + Their uses at Home and Abroad, 284. +American Lion.--See Puma. +Amputation, self inflicted, as a means of escape with captured + animals, 144. + To prevent, 144, 145. +Ancient uses of Furs, 278. +ANISE, OIL OF.-- + Its use in the art of trapping, 152. + As bait for fish, 240. +Annual yield of Furs throughout the world, 281. +Apparatus for stretching skins, 273. +Arrows, poisoned, 26. +Arrow Traps, 23, 25. +Artificial Eyebrows of Mole Fur, 286. +ART OF TRAPPING, 148. +ASSAFOETIDA.-- + Its use by the Trapper, 151. + As scent bait for fish, 240. +ASTOR, JOHN JACOB, and the Fur Trade, 281. +Astringent Preparations, use of, in drying Skins, 273, 276. + +B + +BADGER, THE,-- + Nature and habits of, 175. + Skinning the, 177. + Trapping the, 175. + Uses of Fur, 286. + Value of Fur, 284. +Bags, Waterproof, for food, 236. +Baiting the Steel Trap, 143. +Baits for fishing, 240. +Baits, scent, 149. +Bait, Trapping without, 148. +BARK SHANTY.-- + Hints on, 266. + Details of construction, 245. +Bark-Stone.--See Castoreum. +Bark-Stone composition.--See Castoreum. +"Barque."--See Birch Bark Canoe. +Barrel Hoops used in canoe building, 264. +BARREL TRAPS, 125, 127, 133. +Basket for the shoulders, 234, 236. +Basswood-bark canoes, 264. +Bateaux, 264. +BAT FOWLING NET, 70. +Baking, recipe for, 253. +Bay Lynx.--See Wild Cat. +Beans as food, 235. +BEAR.-- + Nature and habits of, 168, 227. + Trapping the, 168. + Traps for, 17, 29, 143. + Various species of, 168. + Directions for removing skin, 172. + Use of skin, 285. + Value of skin, 284. +"Bear Tamer," 137, 142. +"Bear Chasing," dangers of the sport, 170. +[Page 290] +Bear Grease, 171. +Bear Meat, to roast, 233. + " " to dry, 237. +BEAVER.-- + Nature and habits of, 177. + Trapping the, 177. + Skinning the, 182. + Skin, to tan, 277. + Use of fur, 285. + Value of skin, 284. +BEDS AND BEDDING, 248. +Bed, spring, 248. + " hammock, swinging, 249. +Bed clothes, 249. +BIG HORN, the, 220. + As food, 220, 238. + Nature and habits of, 220. + Trapping the, 220. +BIRCH BARK CANOE, remarks on, 226. + Directions for making, 261. +Bird-Catching Net, 70. +BIRD LIME, 97. + Masticated Wheat used as, 99. + Recipe for making, 98. + Used in capture of Puma, 35. + Used for capture of Humming Bird, 99. + Used in making Fly-paper, 136. + Used with an Owl as decoy, 98. + With paper cone, as a Crow trap, 96. +BIRD TRAPS, 65. + " Box, 88, 90. 91. +BIRD WHISTLE, 72. +BISON.--See Buffalo. +Black Fly.--See "Punkey." +Blanket, woollen, 250. + Rubber, 236. + Use of, 250. +Block-tin, used for kettles, &c., 235. +Blossom, utilized as a trap, 99. +Blow-gun, used in the capture of Humming Bird, 99. +BOARD FLAP, the, 130. +BOARD STRETCHERS, 273. +BOATS, remarks on, 226. + Manufacture of, 259. + The dug-out, or log canoe, 259. + The birch-bark canoe, 261. + The bateau, 264. + The scow, 267. + The flat-bottomed boat, 267. +Boiled Mush, 232. + " to fry, 232. +Boiling water used in bending wood, 268, 272. +Book I. TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME, 17. + II. SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS, 39. + III. TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65. + IV. MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103. + V. HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125. + VI. STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137. + VII. THE CAMPAIGN, 225. + VIII. THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255. +Boots, hints on, 228. + Grease for, 228. +Bottle Lantern, 241. + " Match Safe, 234. +BOW STRETCHER, for skins, 274. +BOW Traps, 23, 25, 116. +BOWL TRAPS, 135, 136. +Box Bird Traps, 55, 88, 90, 91. +BOX DEAD FALL, 128. +Box Hut, used in Pickerel fishing, 241. +BOW OWL TRAP, 88. +BOX PIT-FALL, 131. +BOX SNARES, 55, 56. +BOX TRAP, the, 103. + Two modes of setting, 105. +Box Traps, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110. +BOX TRAP, pendent, 91. +Brandy on a trapping campaign, 257. +Brass wire nooses, 41. +Brick Trap, 66. +Broiling, recipes for, 233. +Brook Trout, fishing through the ice, 240. + " To cook deliciously, 232. +Bruises, ointment for, 255. +Buckskin gloves, in handling traps, 149. +Building the camp fire, 233. +Buffalo, the, 220. + As food, 221, 238, + How hunted and trapped, 221. +Building boats, 259. +Butternut log, for canoe, 239. +Butter, to keep on a campaign, 236. + +C + +Cage traps for birds, 76. + " " mice, 134. +Call Birds, how used, 72. +CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS, 225. +CAMPAIGN, PLAN OF, 225. +Camp fire, 228. + To build, 233. +Camp Kettle, 235. + " Knife, 235. + " Stove, 228, 235. +Canada Grouse, 238. + " Lynx.--See Lynx. + " Moose.--See Moose. +Candles, in camp, 227. + " Novel way of using, 218. +[Page 291] +Canned vegetables, 236. +CANOES, remarks on, 226. + " Basswood-bark, 264. + " Birch-bark, directions for building, 261. + " Hemlock bark, 264. + " Log.--See Dug-out. + " Spruce bark, 264. +Canton flannel bags, for bed clothes, 249. +Canvass-back Duck, as food, 239. +Canvas bags, waterproof, 236. +Caps, percussion, used in lighting fire, 234. +CAPTURE OF ANIMALS, 154. +CARPETING TENTS, 250. +CASTOREUM, or Barkstone, 150. + How obtained, 150. + How used.--See Beaver. +CASTOREUM COMPOSITION, 150. +Cat, domestic, use of skin, 286. + Value of skin, 284. +Cat, wild.--See Wild Cat. +Caulking boats, 261, 266. +Caution in baiting steel traps, 113. +Caution in handling steel traps, 149. +Chill, remedy for, 257. +Chimney-fire in log shanty, 245. +Chip as a plate, 232. +Chip, for a frying pan, 230, 232. +Chloride of Lime, as an antidote, 152. +Choosing a trapping ground, 225. +Cicely, Sweet, as scent bait in fishing, 240. +Cities built up by the fur trade, 281. +CLAP NET, 72. +Clearing tents and shanties from insects, 230. +Climate and fur apparel, 284. +CLOG, THE, 146. +Cloth for tent making, 247. + " Waterproof preparation for, 247. +Clothing, hints on, 228. +Coasting on the Indian sled, 270. +Cock of the plains, 238. +Coffee, 236. +Coffee-pot, 235. +Cold, remedy for, 257. +Combination camp-knife, 235. +COMMON BOX TRAP, 103. +Compass, pocket, 227. +Compound scent-bait, 150, 153. +Concealing steel traps, 229. +Cone of paper as a trap, 96. +Corrall, African trap, 34. +COOKING UTENSILS FOR A CAMPAIGN, 230, 235. +Coon.--See Raccoon. +COOP TRAP, 67. + " For large game, 33. +Cotton drilling, used for making tents, 247. + " Waterproof preparation for, 247. +"Cotton Tail."--See Rabbit. +Cougar.--See Puma. +Cow's udder, as fish bait, 240. +Crackers as food, 236. +Crow trap, 96. +CUMMIN, used in trapping, 152. +Cup, portable, 231. +CURING SKINS, 272. +Current price list of American furs, 284. + +D + +Dark lantern, used by bird catchers, 71. + Deer hunters, 217. +DEAD-FALLS, 17, 29, 107, 111, 113. + " Box, 128. + " For large game, 17. + " How set for the fox, 113. + " Stone, 29. + " Weighted harpoon, 26. + " With figure four trap, 114. +Dead fish, valuable in making trails, 153. +Decoys, 72, 76, 94. +Decoy traps, 72, 76, 94. + " Whistle, 74. + " Owl used as, 98. +DEER, 124. + As food, 233, 237, 238. + How to skin the, 219. + Hunting at night, 217, 218. + Luminosity of eyes at night, 217, 218. + Natural characteristics of, 214. + Salt as bait for, 218. + Season for hunting, 218. + Trapping the, 214, 215. + Various modes of hunting, 217. + Various species of, 215. +Deer lick, the, 215. +Deer meat, to dry, 237. +Deer meat, to roast, 233. +Delmonico outdone, 232. +Detecting the direction of the wind by the finger, 217. +Devices used in connection with the steel trap, 144, 147. +Devils' Lantern, 241. +Diet of the Trapper, 230. +"DOUBLE ENDER," the, 109. +Double traps, 57, 109, 110, 129. +DOWN FALL, the, 26. +Dressing for fur skins, 273, 276. +Dressing for leather, 228. +Dressing skins for market, 272. + " Home use, 276. +Dried fish, 237. +Dried venison, 237. +Drilling, as tent material, 247. + " Waterproof preparation for, 247. +[Page 292] +Drinking cup, portable, 231. +Drying skins, 272, 273, 276. +Ducks, various species of, 239. + As food, 239. + To cook deliciously, 233. +DUCK TRAPS, 94, 95. +"DUG-OUT," THE, hints on, 226. + Detailed directions for making, 259. + +E + +Eels, oil prepared from, 151. +Elk.--See Moose. +"Ephraim."--See Bear. +Escaping from the mosquitoes, 255. +Exports of furs, 281, 285. +Extemporized frying pan, 232. + "Toaster," 233. +Extract of beef, Liebig's, 236. +Extravagance in fur apparel, 279. + +F + +False bottom traps, 127, 131, 133. +Fashion and fur, 279, 283, 285. +FEATHERED GAME, TRAPS FOR, 65. +Felt, use of rabbit-fur in making, 286. +FENNEL, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152. +FENUGREEK, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152. +FIGURE FOUR SNARE, 61. +FIGURE FOUR TRAP, 107. + " Used with Dead-Fall, 114. +Finger, as a weather vane, 217. +Fire, to build, 227. + " To light without matches, 234. + " With powder and cap, 234. + " Without "anything," 235. +Fire arms, 227. + " Oil for, 227. +Fire bottle, 241. +Fire Hat for night hunting, 218. +Fire-proof preparations for tents, 247. +Fish, to bake, 232. + To dry, 237. + To fry, 233. +FISHER MARTEN.-- + How to trap the animal, 194. + Its nature and habits, 194. + Its common mode of release from capture, 144. + Method of skinning, 195. + Use of skin, 285. + Value of skin, 284. +FISH-HOOK, trap for ducks, 95. +Fishing, hints on, 239. + At night, 239. + Through the ice, 240. + Various baits, 240. + With tip-up. 240. + For pickerel, 240. +Fishing tackle, 227, 240, 241. +Fish lantern, 241. +FISH OIL, used in the art of trapping, 151. + How obtained, 151. +Fish, scent baits for, 240. + Spearing, 239. +Fish traps, 120, 241. +Flat bottomed boats, 264, 267. +Flat bottomed sled.--See Toboggan +Flat stone, as a frying pan, 232. +Flower, converted into a trap, 99. +Fly, black.--See "Punkey." +FLY-PAPER, to make, 136. +Fly Tent, the, 246. +Fly traps, 136. +Food, portable, 230. +FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS, 230. +"FOOLS' CAP" TRAP FOR CROWS, 96. +Forks, 235. +Fortunes founded on peltry, 281. +FOWLING NET, the, 70. +Fox.-- + Nature and habits of, 154. + Trapping the, 154. + Trapped by a dead-fall, 111, 113. + Varieties of, 154. + Directions for skinning, 158.--See also Red and Silver Fox. +"Fox fire," used in capture of deer, 218. +Fritters, pork, to cook, 231. +Frying pan, 231, 235. + " An extemporized, 232. +Fur Market, eccentricities of, 283. +Furs, ancient uses of, 278. + Annual yield throughout the world, 281. +Furs, best season for, 147. + "Home," 281. + Sale of, by Hudson's Bay Company, 281. + "Shipping," 281. + Table of market values, 282. +Fur skins, to cure for market, 272. + To tan, 276. + Hints on selling for profit, 283. + Various uses of, 285. +FUR TRADE, OBSERVATIONS ON, 278. + Immensity of, 281. + +G + +Game, protected from wolves, 237. +GAROTTE TRAP, 114. +Gloves to be used in trapping, 149. +Glutton.--See Wolverine. +[Page 293] +Gnats, 230, 256. + Painful effects of their bites, 256. + Remedies for their bites, 255. + Driven away by the "Smudge," 230. +Gnat, black.--See "Punkey." +Goose trap, 75. +GOPHER.-- + Nature and habits of, 205. + Trapping the, 205. + Traps for, 119, 120, 40. + Directions for skinning, 206. +Grappling iron, the, 146. +Grease for boots and shoes, 228. +"Great Bear Tamer," the, 142. +GRIZZLY BEAR.-- + Nature and habits of, 169. + Trapping the, 169. + Traps for, 17, 142. + Use of fur, 285. +Ground plan of trapping lines, 228. +Ground, selection for trapping, 225, +GROUND SNARES, 44. +Grouse, as food, 233, 238. + Bait for, 42. + Oil of, for fire arms, 227. + Peculiarities of, 42. + Snares for, 39. + To cook deliciously, 233. + Various species of, 238. +GUN TRAP, 20. + +H + +Hair Nooses, 41. +Half tent, 246. +Hammocks, 250, +Hammock bed, 249. +Handling steel traps, caution in, 149. +Hanging bed, 249. +Hare.--See Rabbit. +HARPOON TRAP of Africa, 26. +Hat Brim, portable, 258. + Netting attachment for, 258. +Hat lantern for night hunting, 218. +Hawk snare, 43. +HAWK TRAP, 93. +Head lantern used in deer hunting, 218. +HEAD NET, 257. +HEDGE NOOSES, 41. +Hemlock bark canoes, 264. +Hemlock boughs, as bedding, 250. +Hemp, used in caulking boats, 261, 266. +"Hiding" steel traps, 229. +High top boots, 228. +Hints on baiting the steel trap, 143. +Hints on selection of trapping ground, 225. +Hints on skinning animals, 272. +Hints on trapping, 148. +Hints on plans of trapping lines, 228. +Hints on sale of furs, 283. +Hippopotamus trap, 26. +Historical items relating to furs and the fur trade, 278. +Hoe cake, to cook, 232. +Hogs carried off by bears, 170. +Hog's liver used as fish bait, 240. +"Home Furs," 281. +HOME-MADE BOAT, 264. +Honey as bait, 19, 31, 170. +Hook trap for ducks, 95. +Hopo, African trap, 34. +Hoop nooses, 40. +HOOP STRETCHER for skins, 275. +Horse hair nooses, to make, 41. +Hot drink for chills, 257. +HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125. +House Tent, 247. +How to select a steel trap, 138. +HOW TO TRAP, 153. +Hudson Bay Company, origin of, 280. + Sales of, 281, 282. +Humming bird, killed by concussion, 99. + " Snare, 99. + " Trap, 99. + " Various modes of capture, 99. +Hunting the deer, 217. +Hunting from trees, 218. +HUT, LOG.--See Log Shanty. + +I + +Implements required on a trapping campaign, 227. +Improved springle, 60. +INDIAN CANOE.--See BIRCH BARK CANOE. +Indian meal, as food, 231. +INDIAN SLEDGE.--See Toboggan. +INDIAN SNOW SHOE, 268. +India-rubber blanket, 236. + How used, 250. +INSECT OINTMENTS, 255. +Insect bites, remedies for, 255. + " Sores resulting from, 257. +Insects, to drive out from tent or shanty, 230, 256. +Intemperance, 257. + +J + +Jack knife, a valuable tool, 227. Jar, as a trap, 135. +[Page 294] +Jar, air-tight, for butter, 236. +"Jerked Venison," 231. +JOHN JACOB ASTOR, and the fur trade, 281. +Johnny cake, to cook, 232. + +K + +Kettle, camp, 235. +Knapsack, 234. + Directions for making, 236. +Knife, a necessary implement, 227. +Knife, the combination camp, 235. +Knives, table, 235. + +L + +Lake trout, fishing for, 240. + To cook deliciously, 232. +Lantern for the head, used by deer hunters, 218. +Lantern used by bird catchers, 71. +Lantern trap for fish, 241. +Large game, traps for, 17. +LAVENDER, used in the art of trapping, 152. +Leather preservative, 228. +"Le Chat."--See Lynx. +Lemonade, 236. +Lens, to light fire with, 234. +Lever for setting large steel traps, 142. +Liebig's extract of beef, 236. +Light, the trapper's, 227. +Light for the head in night hunting, 218. +Light home-made boat, 264. +Lime, chloride of, as a disinfectant, 152. +Liniment for wounds and bruises, 255. + " Insect bites, 255. +Linseed oil, used as bird lime, 98. +Lion, American.--See Puma. +LIST OF PRICES OF AMBRICAN FURS, 284. +Liver, as fish bait, 240. +LOG CABIN.--See Log Shanty. +Log Canoe.--See Dug-Out. +LOG COOP TRAP, 33. +LOG SHANTY, hints on, 226, 229. + Detailed directions for building, 244. + Site for building, 244, 287. + To clear of gnats and mosquitoes, 230. +Lucifer Matches.--See Matches. +"Luxuries," 234. +LYNX, THE CANADIAN, 164. + Natural characteristics of, 164. + Trapping the, 164. + Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 33, 35, 141. +LYNX.-- + Directions for skinning, 166. + Use of skin, 285. + Value of skin, 284. + +M + +Mackinaw and the Fur Trade, 281. +Mallard Duck as food, 239. + " to Cook.--See Duck. +MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS, 281. +Marmot.--See Woodchuck. +MARTEN:-- + Nature and habits of, 192. + Trapping the, 192. + Its common mode of escape, 144. + Directions for removing skin, 194. + How to tan the Skin, 277. + Value and use of skin, 284, 285. +Mastic Varnish used in water-proofing, 234. +MATCHES, 227. + Bottle used for carrying, 234. + To render water-proof, 234. +Meal, Indian, as food, 231. +Meat, to dry, 237. +"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS, 149. +Menagerie Whistle, 74. +Merganser, the, as food, 239, + To cook.--See Duck. +MIDGETS, 256. + Painful effect of their bites, 256. + Driven away by the "Smudge," 230. + Ointments for bites, 255. + Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257. +MINK:-- + Nature and habits of, 189. + Trapping the, 189. + Traps for, 43, 141. + Its common mode of escape from the steel trap, 144. + Directions for skinning, 191. + To tan skin of, 277. + Extensive use of skins in America, 281. + Uses of skin, 285. + Value of skin, 284. +MISCELLANEOUS hints on trapping, 148. +MISCELLANY, the Trapper's, 255, +MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103. +MOLE, 207. + Beauty of fur, 209, 211. + Life and habits of, 207. + Trapping the, 119, 210. + Traps for, 119, 120, 140. + Varieties of, 211. + Directions for skinning.--See Gopher. + Use of fur, 286. +[Page 295] +Montreal and the Fur Trade, 281. +MOOSE:-- + Nature and habits of, 219. + Trapping the, 220. + "Yards," 220. + Flesh as food, 220, 223, 238. + How to skin the animal, 220. +Moose meat, to roast, 233. + " Meat to dry, 237. +MOSQUITOES, 230. + Painful effects of their bites, 257. + Ointments for bites, 255. + Driven away by the "Smudge," 230. + Adirondack experiences with, 255, 256. + Head-net, 257. + Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257. +Mouse Traps, 124, 130, 131, 134, 135. +Mud Stick or Pusher, 267. +Mush, to boil, 232. + to fry, 232. +MUSK:-- + Its use in the art of trapping, 151. + How obtained, 151. +MUSKRAT:-- + Nature and habits of, 182. + Pit-fall Trap for, 133. + Spearing the, 183. + Trapping the, 182. + Traps for, 43, 107, 110, 111, 114, 133, 141. + Its common mode of release, 144. + Extensive use of skins in America, 281. + Skin, to remove, 185. + To tan, 277. + Use of, 286. + Value of, 284. +Muscovy Duck as food, 239. + To cook.--See Duck. +Musquaw.--See Bear. + +N + +Natural Advantages utilized by the Trapper, 149. +Natural History. + Necessity of its study in the art of Trapping, 148. +Neatsfoot Oil for Fire Arms, 227. +NET:-- + " Bat fowling, 70. + " Bird catching, 70. + " Clap, 72. + " Decoy, 72. + " Fish, use of, 241. +Net for the head, 257. + " Fowling, 70. +Net traps, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85. + For Tiger, Puma, or Wild Cat, 35. + Spring, 80. + The upright, 85. + Wild Duck, 94. + Wild Goose, 175. +Netting attachment for Hat brim, 258. +NEWHOUSE TRAP, THE, 138. +Night-hunting, 217, 218. +Night-fishing, 239. +Nooses:-- + Horse hair, 41. + In hedge, 42. + On hoops, 40. + On string, 40. +NOOSE TRAPS, 39. +Nooses, wire, 41. +Northwest Fur Company, 280. +Nutting in Mid-winter, 212. + +O + +Oar-locks, simple, 266. +Oat-meal as food, 236. +OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE, 278. +Oil, Fish.-- + Used in trapping, 151. + How obtained, 151. +Oil of Amber.-- + Used in the art of trapping, 152. +Oil of Ambergris.-- + Used in the art of trapping, 152. +Oil of Anise:-- + Its use in the art of trapping, 152. +Oil of Cinnamon:-- + Its use in the art of trapping, 152. +Oil of Fennel:-- + Its use in the art of trapping, 152. +Oil of Fenugreek:-- + Its use in the art of trapping, 152. +Oil of Lavender:-- + Its use in the art of trapping, 152. +Oil of Rhodium:-- + Its use by trappers, 151. +Oil of Skunk:-- + Its use by trappers, 151. +Oil:-- + For fire arms, 227. + For light, 227. +Oil of Partridge:-- + Its use, 227. +Oil of Pennyroyal:-- + For insect bite, 255. +[Page 296] +Ointment for Bruises and Wounds, 255. +OINTMENT FOR INSECT BITES, 255. +OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE, 58. +Olive Oil in cooking, 236. +OPOSSUM, 201. + Nature and habits of, 202. + Trapping the, 201. + Hunting the, 202. + Directions for skinning, 203. + Uses of skin, 286. + Value of skin, 284. +OTTER:-- + Nature and habits of, 202. + Trapping the, 186. + Directions for skinning, 189. + How to tan the skin, 277. + Use of skin, 286. + Value of skin, 284. +OWL TRAP, 88. +Owl:-- + Used in connection with bird lime as decoy, 98. + +P + +Paint as a water-proof covering, 236. +Painter, the.--See Puma. +Panther, the.--See Puma. +Paper Cone used as a trap, 96. +Partridge, 42, 238. + As food, 238. + Fat for fire arms, 227. + Snares, 39, etc. + To cook deliciously, 233. +Peltry:-- + Fortunes founded on, 281. + Cities built up on, 281. +PENDENT BOX, BIRD TRAP, 91. +Pennyroyal for insect bites, 255. +Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257. +Percussion Cap used in lighting lire, 234. +Peshoo, the.--See Lynx. +Phosphorescent wood used in night-hunting, 218. +Phosphorus lantern for catching fish, 241. +Pickerel fishing, 240. + " Spearing, 241. + " Trap for, 121. + " To cook, 233. +Pigeon Net-trap, 72. +Pigs carried off by Bears, 170. +Pine Log Canoe.--See Dug-out. +Pinnated Grouse, 238. +Pitch for stopping leaks, 261, 264, 266. +PIT-FALL TRAPS.-- + For large game, 31. + For small game, 125, 127, 131. + Barrel, 127. + Box, 131. + For Muskrat, 133. +PLAN OF TRAPPING CAMPAIGN, 225. +Plates, substitutes for, 232, 235. +Platform snare. 61. +Poachers, or trap robbers, 229. +POACHER'S SNARE, 48. +Pocket compass, 227. +POCKET HAT BRIM, 258. + " Sun-glass, 234. +Poisoned arrows, 26. +POISONING, 222. +Pop-corn as bait for Quail, 54. +Portable boats, 259. +Portable food & cooking utensils, 230, 235. +Portable drinking cup, 231. + Hat brim, 258. + " With netting attached, 258. + Snares, 50, 52. + Stove, 228, 235. +Pork as food, 231. + " Fritters, 251. + " " To make, 232. +"Possum."--See Opossum. +Potatoes as food, 235. +Pouched Rat.--See Gopher. +Powder used in lighting fire, 234. +Prairie Hen, 238. +Prairie Whistle, 74. +Precautions in handling steel traps, 156. +PREFACE, 3. +Preparation of skins for market, 272. +Preserve jar used as trap, 135. +Price Current of American Furs, 284. +Prime fur, best season for, 147. +Prof. Blot outdone in cooking, 232. +Profit in selling furs, 233. +PRONGHORN Antelope, 221. + Nature and habits of, 221. + How hunted and trapped, 221, 238. +Provisions, to protect from Wolves, 237. +Ptarmigan, to cook, 233. + Trap for, 75. + How hunted and trapped, 239. + Various species of, 230. +PUMA:-- + Bait for, 20, 31, 32, 163. + Nature and habits of, 161. + Peculiarities of, 20. + Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 31, 33, 141. + Trapping the, 161. + Directions for skinning, 164. + Use of skin, 286. + Value of skin, 284. +Pumice Stone, used in finishing skins, 276. +"PUNKEY."-- + Description of the Insect, 256. + Severity of bites, 256. + Ointment for bites, 255. + Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257. +[Page 297] +Punk Tinder, used in lighting fire, 234. "Pusher."--See Mud stick. +Putty, for stopping leaks, 261. + +Q + +Quail, bait for, 40, 54. + " Snares, 39, 40, 41, etc. + To cook deliciously, 233. +Quotations of the Fur Market, 284. + +R + +RABBIT:-- + As food, 238. + Bait for, 203. + How to skin, 204. + Nature and habits of, 203. + Salt as bait for, 109, + Traps for, 43, 64, 103. + Use of fur, 286. + Value of fur, 284. + Varieties of, 203. +RACCOON:-- + As a pet, 173. + Nature and habits of, 172. + Trapping the, 172. + Traps for, 110, 116, 141. + Hunting the, 172. + Directions for skinning, 175. + How to tan the skin, 277. + Use of the fur, 285. + Value of the fur, 284. +Rat:-- + Snares for, 43. + Trapping the, 125. + Traps for, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138. +Rations for a Campaign, 230. +Raw Furs.--See Furs. +Recipe for insect ointments, 255. + Boot grease, 228. + For cooking, 230. + For curing skins, 272. + For tanning skins, 276. +Red Fox.--See Fox. +Red Fox.-- + Value of skin, 284. + Use of skin, 285. +Red Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257. +Red Squirrel.--See Squirrel. +Remedies for insect bites, 255. + For chills, 257. +Requisites of a good steel trap, 138. + " For snaring, 39. + " For a good trapping ground, 225. + " For a trapping campaign, 227. +Revolver, 227. +Reynard outwitted by a dead-fall, 111, 113. +RHODIUM, Oil of:-- + Its use by the trapper, 151. +Rice as food, 236. +Rifle and Shot Gun combined, 227. + Oil for, 227. +RIFLE TRAP, 20. +Roasting, recipes for, 233. +Rocky Mountain Sheep.--See Big Horn. +"Roughing it," 230. +Rubber blanket, 236. + How used, 250. +Ruffed Grouse.--See Partridge. +Rum on a trapping campaign, 257. + +S + +Sage Cock, the, 238. +Sale of furs by the Hudson's Bay Company, 282. +Salmon, spearing, 239. + " Spear, 239. +Salmon Trout, spearing, 239. +Salmon, to cook deliciously, 232. +Salt as bait for Deer, 218. + As bait for Rabbit, 109. +Salt Lick, the, 218. +Sandpaper used in softening skins, 276. +Salt Pork as food, 231. +SCENT BAITS, 149. + " Compound, 150, 153. +Scented baits for birds, 240. +Scented baits for fish, 240. +Season for Deer hunting, 218. +Scow, 267. +Season for trapping, 147. +Selection of trapping ground, 225. +Self-amputation as a means of escape with captured animals, 144. +Self-amputation, to prevent, 144, 145. +Self-raising flour, 235. +SELF-SETTING TRAPS, 110, 125, 127, 131. +SHANTY:-- + Bark.--See Bark Shanty. + "Home."--See Log Shanty. + Log.--See Log Shanty. +Sheeting as tent material, 247. + Water-proof, preparation for, 247. +Shellac Varnish used in water-proofing, 234. +SHELTER:--The trapper's remarks on, 226. +Shelter tent, 247. + Details of construction, 242. +Shingle stretchers for skins, 274. +[Page 298] +"Shipping furs," 281. +SHOOTING AND POISONING, 222. +Shot-gun Trap, 20. +Shot-gun combined with rifle, 267. +Shoulder basket, 234, 226. +SIEVE TRAP, 65. +Silver Fox, 154. + Value of skin, 284, 285. +Skinning animals, hints on, 272. +Skins:-- + Stretchers for, 273. + To dry, 272, 276. + To soften, 276, 277. + To tan, 276. + Value of, 284. + Use of, 285. +SKUNK, 195. + Adventure with, 196. + As food, 238. + Nature and habits of, 195. + Trapping the, 195. + Traps for, 43, 111, 114, 141. + To eradicate odor of, 152, 198. + Oil of, used in trapping, 151. + Directions for skinning, 198. + Use of skin, 286. + Value of skin, 284. +Sled, Indian.--See Toboggan. +SLIDING POLE, 145. +Slippery Elm used for bird-lime, 98. +"Small Game" as food, 237. +Smell, acute sense of, in animals, 148. +Smoking the steel trap, 128. +Smouldering birch bark to drive away insects, 230. +Smudge, the, 230, 256. +SNARE.-- + Box, 55. + Double box, 56. + Fig. Four, 62. + Hawk, 43. + Hedge, 42. + Hoop, 40. + Humming-bird, 99. + Knotted string, 52, 53, 54. + Pasteboard box, 56. + Platform, 61. + Poacher's, 48. + Portable, 48, 50, 52. + Quail, 53. + Rat, 43. + "Simplest," 52. + Springle, 58, 60. + Stovepipe, 120. + Tree, 42. + Triangle, 42. + Twitchup, 43. + Wood Chuck, 43. +SNARES, OR NOOSE TRAPS, 37. +Snaring, requisites for, 39. +Snow Grouse, the, 238. +SNOW-SHOES, 267. +Snow-shoe race, 267. +Softening skins, 276, 277. +Sores resulting from insect bites, 257. +Soups, recipes for, 236. +Spearing fish, 239, 241. +Spearing Muskrats, 183. +Spider for cooking, 233. +Spoons, 235. +Spring-bed, 249. +SPRINGLE, 58, 60. +Spring-net Traps, 80. +Spring-pole, the, 144. +Spring, to temper, 84. +Spruce Bark Canoes, 264. +Spruce boughs as bedding, 250. +Spruce Grouse, 238. +SQUIRRELS, 211. + As food, 238. + Nature and habits of, 211. + Traps for, 43, 103, 106, 107, 110, 116, 128, 140. + Various species of, 213. + To cook, 233. + Use of skins, 286. +STEEL TRAPS, 137. + Caution in handling, 149. + Concealing in the woods, 229, + Various modes of setting, 144. + Requisite number for a campaign, 227. + To set for rats, 128. + To select judiciously, 138. + Requisites of, 138. + Hints on baiting, 143. +Steel Trap spring, to set with lever, 142. +STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137. +Still hunting, 217. +Stimulants, 257. +Stone Dead-fall, 29. +Storing traps in the woods, 229. +Stove, portable, 228, 235. +Stovepipe fish-trap, 120. +St. Paul, Minn., and the Fur Trade, 281. +STRETCHERS FOR SKINS, 273. +Strychnine poisoning, 222. +Sucker wire nooses, 41. +Sugar of lead used in water-proofing, 247. +Sun-glass, 234, 235, +Sweet Cicely as bait for fish, 240. +SWEET FENNEL.-- + Oil used in trapping, 152, +Sweet Oil and Tar Ointment for insect bites, 255. +Swinging bed, 249. + +[Page 299] +T + +Table knife and bowl trap, 135. +Table showing sale of furs by Hudson Bay Company, 282. +Tallow, mutton, as ointment, 255. +Tame Geese as decoys, 75. +TANNING SKINS, 276. + Mixtures, 276, 277, 278. + With the hair on, 276. + Simple, 278. +Tar and Sweet Oil ointment for insect bites, 255. +Tar for water-proofing, 264. +Tea, 236. + " Red pepper, as a remedy, 257. +Teal Ducks as food, 239. + To cook.--See Duck. +"Telescope" Drinking Cup, 231. +Tempering iron spring, 84. +TENTS, 246. + House-tent, 246. + Fly-tent, 247. + Half-tent, 247. + Shelter-tent, 247. + Materials, 247. + Water-proof preparation for, 247. + Fire-proof preparation for, 247. + To carpet with spruce, 250. + To clear of gnats and musquitoes, 230. +TENT CARPETING, 250. +Thimble used with bowl as Mouse trap, 136. +Tiger captured with bird lime, 35. +Tiger trap, 31. +Tinder, 234. +Tip-ups, 240. +Toaster, an extemporized, 233. +TOBOGGAN, OR INDIAN SLEDGE, 269. +Tools required on a trapping campaign, 227. +Tools required for canoe building, 259. +Torch for the head, used in night hunting, 218. +"Touch-wood " used in lighting fire, 234. +Trail. The.-- + Its value to the trapper, 153. + Various modes of making, 153. +TRAP.-- + Arrow, 23, 25. + Barrel. 125, 127. + Bird, 65, 70, 73, 75, 88, 90, 91, 96. + Bow, 23, 25, 116. + Bowl, 135. + Box, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110. + Brick, 66. + Cage, 76, 134. + Cob house, 67. + Coon, 110, 116, 141. + Coop, 33, 67, 70. + Crow, 96. + Dead-fall, 17, 107, 111. + Decoy, 72, 76, 94. + Double ender, 109. + Down-fall, 26. + Duck, 94, 95. + Fish, 120. + Fish hook, 95. + Fly, 136. + Fool's-cap, 96. + Garotte, 114. + Gun, 20. + Harpoon, 26. + Hawk, 42, 93. + Hook, 95. + Jar, 135. + Mole, 119, 120. + Mouse, 130, 131, 134, 135. + Net, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85. + Owl, 88. + Partridge, 43, etc. + Pendent Box, 91. + Pitfall, 11, 125, 127, 131. + Ptarmigan, 75. + Quail, 39, 40, 41, 53. + Rabbit, 43, 64, 103. + Rat, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138. + Rifle, 20. + Self-setting, 110, 125, 127, 131. + Sieve, 65. + Spring net, 80, 83, 85. + Steel, 140. + The "Newhouse," 140. + Tree, 42, 91. + Upright net, 85. + Wild Duck, 94, 95. + Wild Goose, 75. + Woodchuck, 43. +Trapper's beds and bedding, 248. + " Cooking utensils, 230. + " Diet, 230. +TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255. + " Shelter, 226, 242. + " Sled.--See Toboggan. +TRAPPING, art of, 148. + Season for, 147. + Miscellaneous hints on, 148. + Campaign, plan of, 225. + Tools and other requisites, 227. + Ground, selection of, 225. + Valuable suggestions on, 228. +Trapping Lines, 226. +Trap robbers, 220. +Traps for large game, 17. +[Page 300] + FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65. + HOUSEHOLD, 125. +Tree hunting, 218. +Tree snare, 42. + " Traps, 42, 91. +TRIANGLE SNARE, 42. +Trout, to cook deliciously, 232. +Trumpet Creeper flower used as a trap, 99. +Tumbler fly-trap, 136. +Twitch-up, 43, 62. + Poacher's, 48. + Portable, 50. + "Simplest," 52. + +U + +UPRIGHT NET TRAP, 85. + " Snares 44, 58. +Use and abuse of Alcohol, 257. +Uses of fur skins, 285. +Utensils for cooking, 230, 235. + +V + +Value of fur skins, table of, 262. +Various uses of fur skins, 285. +Varnish water-proof preparation for preserving matches, 234. +Vegetables for food on a campaign, 235. + " Canned, 236. +Venison as food, 233, 237. + To roast, 233. + To preserve, 237. + "Jerked," 237. + Dried, 237. + +W + +Walking on the snow, 267. +War in the fur trade, 281. +Watch crystal as sun glass, 287. +Water fowl as food, 239. +Water-proof application for boats, 261, 264, 266. + " Canvas bags, for food, 236. +Match safe, 234. + " Preparation, 236, 247, 266. + " Varnish for matches, 234. +Water traps, 110, 120. +Wedge stretcher for skins, 274. +Weighted harpoon trap, 26. +Wheaten grits as trappers' food, 236. +Wheat flour as food, 235. + " Self-raising, 235. +Wheel form of trapping lines, 229. +Whiskey on a trapping campaign, 257. +Whip lashes from Woodchuck hide, 204. +Whistlebird, 74. +White Birch Canoe, 261. +White-wood log for Dug-out, 259. +Widgeon, the, as food, 239. + To cook.--See Duck. +WILD CAT:-- + Nature and habits of, 167. + Snares for, 43. + Trapping the, 166. + Skinning the, 168. + Uses of skin, 286. + Value of skin, 284. +Wild Duck, to cook, 233. +Wild Duck, traps, 94, 95. +Wild Goose as food, 239. +Wild Goose to cook, 233. +Wild Goose trap, 75. +Wind, direction of, to detect by the finger, 217. +Winged vermin, 255. +Winter fishing, 240. +Wire cage trap for birds, 76. + " " For mice, 134. +Wire nooses, 41. +WOLF.-- + Nature and habits of, 158. + Trapping the, 158. + Poisoning the, 222. + Traps for, 20, 141. + To protect provisions from, 237. + Varieties of, 158. + Directions for skinning, 161. + Use of skin, 286. + Value of skin, 284. +WOLVERINE:-- + Nature and habits of, 199, 238. + Trapping the, 199. + Natural enemy to the Beaver, 200. + Directions for skinning, 201. + Use of skin, 286. + Value of skin, 284. +WOODCHUCK, 204. + As food, 238. + Nature and habits of, 204. + Snare, 205. + Trapping the, 204. + Use of skin, 204. + Smoked from its burrow, 205. + Removing skin of, 205. +Woodcock, to cook, 233. +Wood Duck as food, 239. + To cook.--See Duck. +Woodland beds and bedding, 249. +Wounds, ointment for, 255. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks +of Trapping and Trap Making, by William Hamilton Gibson + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS *** + +***** This file should be named 17093.txt or 17093.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/7/0/9/17093/ + +Produced by Robert J. 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