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diff --git a/16672-8.txt b/16672-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..960164f --- /dev/null +++ b/16672-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,12554 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in +Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868, by +David Livingstone, Edited by Horace Waller + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868 + + +Author: David Livingstone + +Editor: Horace Waller + +Release Date: September 7, 2005 [eBook #16672] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID +LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH, VOLUME I (OF 2), +1866-1868*** + + +E-text prepared by Steven Gibbs and the Project Gutenberg Online +Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 16672-h.htm or 16672-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/6/7/16672/16672-h/16672-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/6/7/16672/16672-h.zip) + + + + + +THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE, +IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH. + +Continued by a Narrative of His Last Moments and Sufferings, +Obtained from His Faithful Servants Chuma and Susi, + +by + +HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S., +Rector Of Twywell, Northampton. + +IN TWO VOLUMES.--VOL. I. +[1866-1868] + +With Portrait, Maps, and Illustrations. + +London: +John Murray, Albemarle Street. + +1874 + + + + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +In the midst of the universal sorrow caused by the intelligence that +Dr. Livingstone had lost his life at the furthest point to which he +had penetrated in his search for the true sources of the Nile, a faint +hope was indulged that some of his journals might survive the +disaster: this hope, I rejoice to say, has been realized beyond the +most sanguine expectations. + +It is due, in the first place, to his native attendants, whose +faithfulness has placed his last writings at our disposal, and also to +the reader, before he launches forth upon a series of travels and +scientific geographical records of the most extraordinary character, +to say that in the following narrative of seven years' continuous work +and new discovery _no break whatever occurs_. + +We have not to deplore the loss, by accident or carelessness, of a +single entry, from the time of Livingstone's departure from Zanzibar +in the beginning of 1866 to the day when his note-book dropped from +his hand in the village of Ilala at the end of April, 1873. + +I trust it will not be uninteresting if I preface the history with a +few words on the nature of these journals and writings as they have +come to hand from Central Africa. + +It will be remembered that when Mr. Stanley returned to England in +1872, Dr. Livingstone entrusted to his care a very large Letts' diary, +sealed up and consigned to the safe keeping of his daughter, Miss +Agnes Livingstone. Upon the confirmation of the worst news, this book +was examined and found to contain a considerable portion of the notes +which her father made during his travels previous to the time of Mr. +Stanley's meeting him. + +The Doctor's custom was always to have metallic note-books in use, in +which the day's jottings were recorded. When time and opportunity +served, the larger volume was posted up with scrupulous care. + +It seems, however, that in the last three or four years of his life +this excellent rule had to give way to the toils of travel and the +exhaustion of most distressing illnesses. Whilst in the Manyuema +country he ran out of note-books, ink, and pencils, and had to resort +to shifts which at first made it a very debateable point whether the +most diligent attempt at deciphering would suceeed after all. Such +pocket-books as remained at this period of his travels were utilized +to the last inch of paper. In some of them we find lunar observations, +the names of rivers, and the heights of hills advancing towards the +middle from one end, whilst from the other the itinerary grows day by +day, interspersed with map routes of the march, botanical notes, and +carefully made drawings. But in the mean time the middle portion of +the book was filling up with calculations, private memoranda, words +intended for vocabularies, and extracts from books, whilst here and +there the stain of a pressed flower causes indistinctness; yet the +thread of the narrative runs throughout. Noting but his invariable +habit of constantly repeating the month and year obviates hopeless +confusion. Nor is this all; for pocket-books gave out at last, and old +newspapers, yellow with African damp, were sewn together, and his +notes were written across the type with a substitute for ink made from +the juice of a tree. To Miss Livingstone and to the Rev. C.A. Alington +I am very much indebted for help in the laborious task of deciphering +this portion of the Doctor's journals. Their knowledge of his +handwriting, their perseverance, coupled with good eyes and a strong +magnifying-glass, at last made their task a complete success. + +In comparing this great mass of material with the journal brought +home by Mr. Stanley, one finds that a great deal of most interesting +matter can be added. It would seem that in the hurry of writing and +copying despatches previous to his companion's departure, the Doctor +rapidly entered up as much from his note-books as time and space +permitted. + +Most fortunately, he still carried the greater part of these original +notes till the time of his death, so that they were forthcoming when +his effects were subsequently saved. + +This brings us to the second instalment of the journals, for we have +thus acknowledged the first to have reached us on Mr. Stanley's +return. + +When the battered tin travelling-case, which was with Livingstone to +the last, was opened at the Foreign Office in the spring of this year, +not only were these valuable papers disclosed which I have mentioned, +but it was found also that Livingstone had kept a copious journal +during his stay at Unyanyembé in some copy-books, and that when his +stock of note-books was replenished a daily record of his subsequent +travels had been made. + +It was with fear and trembling that one looked to see whether all had +been saved or only part, but with satisfaction and thankfulness I have +subsequently discovered that his men preserved every single line, +besides his maps, which now come to light for the first time. + +Thus much on the material of the diaries: it remains to say a few +words on the Map which accompanies these journals. It has been +compiled from Dr. Livingstone's original drawings and note-books, with +the corrections and additions he made from time to time as the work of +exploration progressed, and the details of physical geography became +clearer to him. The compiler, Mr. John Bolton[1], implicitly +following the original outline of the drawing as far as possible, has +honestly endeavoured to give such a rendering of the entire work, as +the Doctor would have done had he lived to return home, and +superintend the construction; and I take this opportunity of +expressing my sincere gratification that Mr. Bolton's rare technical +skill, scientific knowledge, and unwearying labour have been available +for the purpose. + +Amongst almost the last words that Livingstone wrote, I find an +unfinished letter to myself, in which he gives me very clear and +explicit directions concerning the geographical notes he had +previously sent home, and I am but carrying out the sacred duty which +is attached to a last wish when I call attention to the fact, that he +particularly desired in this letter that _no positions gathered from +his observations for latitude and longitude, nor for the levels of the +Lakes, &c., should be considered correct till Sir Thomas Maclear had +examined them_. The position of Casembe's town, and of a point near +Pambetté at the S.E., and of Lake Liemba (Tanganyika), have been +computed and corrected by Sir T. Maclear and Dr. Mann. The +observations for latitude were taken at short intervals, and where it +has been possible to test them they have been found very correct, but +I repeat that until the imprimatur of his old friend at the Cape of +Good Hope stands over the whole of Livingstone's work, the map must be +accepted as open to further corrections. + +The journey from Kabwabwata to Mparru has been inserted _entirely_ +from notes, as the traveller was too ill to mark the route: this is +the only instance in all his wanderings where he failed to give some +indication on his map of the nature of the ground over which he +passed. The journey front Mikindany Bay to Lake Nyassa has also been +laid down from his journal and latitudes in consequence of the section +of this part of his route (which he left at Ujiji) not having arrived +in England at this date.[2] It will be observed that the outline of +Lake Nyassa differs from that on any published map: it has been drawn +from the original exploratory survey of its southern shores made by +Dr. Livingstone in 1861-3. For some reason this original plan was not +adhered to by a former draughtsman, but the Lake has here been +restored to a more accurate bearing and position. + +How often shall we see in the pages of this concluding chapter of his +life, that unwavering determination which was pre-eminently the great +characteristic of David Livingstone! + +Naturally endowed with unusual endurance, able to concentrate +faculties of no ordinary kind upon whatever he took in hand, and with +a dread of exaggeration which at times almost militated against the +importance of some of his greatest discoveries, it may be doubted if +ever Geographer went forth strengthened with so much true power. Let +us add to these a sincere trust that slavery, the "great open sore of +the world," as he called it, might under God's good guidance receive +healing at his hands; a fervent hope that others would follow him +after he had removed those difficulties which are comprised in a +profound ignorance of the physical features of a new country, and we +have the marching orders of him who left us in August 1865 never to +return alive. + +Privileged to enjoy his near personal friendship for a considerable +period in Africa, and also at home, it has been easy to trace--more +especially from correspondence with him of late years--that +Livingstone wanted just some such gigantic problem as that which he +attacked at the last to measure his strength against: that he finally +overrated and overtaxed it I think all must admit. + +He had not sufficiently allowed for an old wound which his +constitution received whilst battling with dysentery and fever, on his +celebrated journey across Africa, and this finally sapped his vital +powers, and, through the irritation of exhaustion, insidiously clouded +much of his happiness. + +Many of his old friends were filled with anxiety when they found that +he intended to continue the investigation of the Nile sources, for the +letters sent home by Mr. Stanley raised the liveliest apprehensions, +which, alas! soon proved themselves well grounded. + +The reader must be warned that, however versed in books of African +travel he may be, the very novelty of his situation amongst these +pages will render him liable perhaps to a danger which a timely word +may avert. Truly it may be said he has an _embarras de richesses!_ To +follow an explorer who by his individual exertions has filled up a +great space in the map of Africa, who has not only been the first to +set foot on the shores of vast inland seas, but who, with the simple +appliances of his bodily stature for a sounding pole and his stalwart +stride for a measuring tape, lays down new rivers by the hundreds, is +a task calculated to stagger him. It may be provoking to find +Livingstone busily engaged in bargaining for a canoe upon the shores +of Bangweolo, much as he would have secured a boat on his own native +Clyde; but it was not in his nature to be subject to those paroxysms +in which travellers too often indite their discoveries and +descriptions. + +At the same time these journals will be found to contain innumerable +notes on the habits of animals, birds, and fishes, many of them +probably new species, and on phenomena in every direction which the +keen eye searched out as the great traveller moved amongst some of the +grandest scenes of this beautiful world: it may be doubted if ever eye +so keen was backed by so much perseverance to shield it from a mere +superficial habit of noticing. Let his adventures speak for +themselves. + +Amongst the greatest facts recorded here the Geographer will perceive +that the Doctor has placed it beyond doubt that Lake Nyassa belongs to +a totally distinct system of waters to that which holds Lake +Tanganyika, and the rivers running north and west. He was too +sagacious to venture the surmise that Tanganyika has a subterranean +outlet without having duly weighed the probabilities in the scale with +his elaborate observations: the idea gathers force when we remember +that in the case of limestone cliffs, water so often succeeds in +breaking bounds by boring through the solid rock. No more interesting +problem is left to solve, and we shall yet learn whether, through the +caverns of Western Kabogo, this Lake adds its waters to the vast +northerly flow of rivers we now read of for the first time, and which +are undoubtedly amongst the largest in the world. + +I cannot close these remarks without stating how much obliged I am to +Mr. James Young, F.R.S., of Kelly, for having ensured the presence of +the Doctor's men, Chuma and Susi. Ever ready to serve his old friend +Livingstone, he took care that they should be at my elbow so long as I +required them to help me amidst the pile of MSS. and maps. Their +knowledge of the countries they travelled in is most remarkable, and +from constantly aiding their master by putting questions to the +natives respecting the course of rivers, &c., I found them actual +geographers of no mean attainments. In one instance, when in doubt +concerning a particular watershed, to my surprise Susi returned a few +hours afterwards with a plan of the whole system of rivers in the +region under examination, and I found his sketch tally well with the +Doctor's map. Known to me previously for years on the Zambesi and +Shiré it was a pleasure to have them with me for four months. Amongst +other good services they have aided the artist by reproducing the +exact facsimile of the hut in which Dr. Livingstone expired, besides +making models of the "kitanda" on which he was carried, and of the +village in which his body lay for fourteen days. + +I need not add what ready and valuable assistance I have derived from +the Doctor's old companion Dr. Kirk wherever I have found it necessary +to apply to him; some of the illustrations are more particularly owing +to his kindness. + +It only remains to say that it has been thought advisable to retain +all the strictly scientific matter found in Dr. Livingstone's journals +for future publication. When one sees that a register of the daily +rainfall was kept throughout, that the temperature was continually +recorded, and that barometrical and hypsometrical observations were +made with unflagging thoroughness of purpose year in and year out, it +is obvious that an accumulated mass of information remains for the +meteorologist to deal with separately, which alone must engross many +months of labour. + +A constant sense of great responsibility has been mine throughout this +task, for one cannot doubt that much of the future welfare of distant +tribes and races depends upon Livingstone obtaining through these +records a distinct hearing for their woes, their misery, and above all +for their willingness to welcome men drawn towards them by motives +like his. + +At the same time memory and affection have not failed to bring back +vividly the man, the traveller, and the friend. May that which he has +said in his journals suffer neither loss of interest nor depth of +meaning at the compiler's hands. + + HORACE WALLER. + + TWYWELL RECTORY, THRAPSTON, + NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. + _Nov. 2, 1874._ + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] Attached to Mr. Stanford's staff. + +[2] In February last this section of the map (as we suppose), together +with some of the Doctor's papers, was sent off from Ujiji by +Lieutenant Cameron. Nothing, however, had arrived on the 22nd +September at Zanzibar, and H.M. Consul, Captain Prideaux, entertained +serious doubts at that time whether they would ever come to hand. All +Livingstone's journals were saved through other instrumentality, as I +have shown. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +CHAPTER I. + + Arrival at Zanzibar. Hearty reception by Said Majid, the sultan. + Murder of Baron van der Decken. The slave-market. Preparations + for starting to the interior. Embarkation in H.M.S. _Penguin_ + and dhow. Rovuma Bay impracticable. Disembarks at Mikindany. Joy + at travelling once more. Trouble with sepoys. Camels attacked by + tsetse fly, and by sepoys. Jungle sappers. Meets old enemies. + The Makondé. Lake Nangandi. Gum-copal diggings. + +CHAPTER II. + + Effect of _Pioneer's_ former visit. The poodle Chitané. Result + of tsetse bites. Death of camels and buffaloes. Disaffection of + followers. Disputed right of ferry. Mazitu raids. An old friend. + Severe privations. The River Loendi. Sepoys mutiny. Dr. Roscher. + Desolation. Tattooing. Ornamental teeth. Singular custom. Death + of the Nassick boy, Richard. A sad reminiscence. + +CHAPTER III. + + Horrors of the slave-trader's track. System of cultivation. + Pottery. Special exorcising. Death of the last mule. Rescue of + Chirikaloma's wife. Brutalities of the slave-drivers. Mtarika's. + Desperate march to Mtaka's. Meets Arab caravans. Dismay of + slavers. Dismissal of sepoys. Mataka. The Waiyau metropolis. + Great hospitality and good feeling. Mataka restores stolen + cattle. Life with the chief. Beauty of country and healthiness + of climate. The Waiyau people and their peculiarities. Regrets + at the abandonment of Bishop Mackenzie's plans. + +CHAPTER IV. + + Geology and description of the Waiyau land. Leaves Mataka's. The + Nyumbo plant. Native iron-foundry. Blacksmiths. Makes for the + Lake Nyassa. Delight at seeing the Lake once more. The Manganja + or Nyassa tribe. Arab slave crossing. Unable to procure passage + across. The Kungu fly. Fear of the English amongst slavers. Lake + shore. Blue ink. Chitané changes colour. The Nsaka fish. + Makalaosé drinks beer. The Sanjika fish. London antiquities. + Lake rivers. Mukaté's. Lake Pamalombé. Mponda's. A slave gang. + Wikatani discovers his relatives and remains. + +CHAPTER V. + + Crosses Cape Maclear. The havildar demoralised. The discomfited + chief. Reaches Marenga's town. The earth-sponge. Description of + Marenga's town. Rumours of Mazitu. Musa and the Johanna men + desert. Reaches Kimsusa's. His delight at seeing the Doctor once + more. The fat ram. Kimsusa relates his experience of + Livingstone's advice. Chuma finds relatives. Kimsusa solves the + transport difficulty nobly. Another old fishing acquaintance. + Description of the people and country on the west of the Lake. + The Kanthundas. Kauma. Iron-smelting. An African Sir Colin + Campbell. Milandos. + +CHAPTER VI. + + Progress northwards. An African forest. Destruction by Mazitu. + Native salutations. A disagreeable chief. On the watershed + between the Lake and the Loangwa River. Extensive iron-workings. + An old Nimrod. The Bua River. Lovely scenery. Difficulties of + transport. Chilobé. An African Pythoness. Enlists two Waiyou + bearers. Ill. The Chitella bean. Rains set in. Arrives at the + Loangwa. + +CHAPTER VII. + + Crosses the Loangwa. Distressing march. The king-hunter. Great + hunger. Christmas feast necessarily postponed. Loss of goats. + Honey-hunters. A meal at last. The Babisa. The Mazitu again. + Chitembo's. End of 1866. The new year. The northern brim of the + great Loangwa Valley. Accident to chronometers. Meal gives out. + Escape from a Cobra capella. Pushes for the Chambezé. Death of + Chitané. Great pinch for food. Disastrous loss of medicine + chest. Bead currency. Babisa. The Chambezé. Reaches + Chitapangwa's town. Meets Arab traders from Zanzibar. Sends off + letters. Chitapangwa and his people. Complications. + +CHAPTER VIII. + + Chitapangwa's parting oath. Course laid for Lake Tanganyika. + Moamba's village. Another watershed. The Babemba tribe. Ill with + fever. Threatening attitude of Chibué's people. Continued + illness. Reaches cliffs overhanging Lake Liemba. Extreme beauty + of the scene. Dangerous fit of insensibility. Leaves the Lake. + Pernambuco cotton. Rumours of war between Arabs and Nsama. + Reaches Chitimba's village. Presents Sultan's letter to + principal Arab, Hamees. The war in Itawa. Geography of the + Arabs. Ivory traders and slave-dealers. Appeal to the Koran. + Gleans intelligence of the Wasongo, to the eastward, and their + chief, Meréré. Hamees sets out against Nsama. Tedious sojourn. + Departure for Ponda. Native cupping. + +CHAPTER IX. + + Peace negotiations with Nsama. Geographical gleanings. Curious + spider. Reaches the River Lofu. Arrives at Nsama's. Hamees + marries the daughter of Nsama. Flight of the bride. + Conflagration in Arab quarters. Anxious to visit Lake Moero. + Arab burial. Serious illness. Continues journey. Slave-traders + on the march. Reaches Moero. Description of the Lake. + Information concerning the Chambezé and Luapula. Hears of Lake + Bemba. Visits spot of Dr. Lacerda's death. Casembe apprised of + Livingstone's approach. Meets Mohamad Bogharib. Lakelet Mofwé. + Arrives at Casembe's town. + +CHAPTER X. + + Grand reception of the traveller. Casembe and his wife. Long + stay in the town. Goes to explore Moero. Despatch to Lord + Clarendon, with notes on recent travels. Illness at the end of + 1867. Further exploration of Lake Moero. Flooded plains. The + River Luao. Visits Kabwabwata. Joy of Arabs at Mohamad bin + Salleh's freedom. Again ill with fever. Stories of underground + dwellings. + +CHAPTER XI + + Riot in the camp. Mohamad's account of his long imprisonment. + Superstitions about children's teeth. Concerning dreams. News of + Lake Chowambé. Life of the Arab slavers. The Katanga gold + supply. Muabo. Ascent of the Rua Mountains. Syde bin Habib. + Birthday, 19th March, 1868. Hostility of Mpwéto. Contemplates + visiting Lake Bemba. Nile sources. Men desert. The shores of + Moero. Visits Fungafunga. Return to Casembe's. Obstructiveness + of "Cropped-ears." Accounts of Pereira and Dr. Lacerda. Major + Monteiro. The line of Casembes. Casembe explains the connection + of the Lakes and the Luapula. Queen Moäri. Arab sacrifice. + Kapika gets rid of his wife. + +CHAPTER XII. + + Prepares to examine Lake Bemba. Starts from Casembe's 11th June, + 1868. Dead leopard. Moenampanda's reception. The River Luongo. + Weird death-song of slaves. The forest grave. Lake Bemba changed + to Lake Bangweolo. Chikumbi's. The Imbozhwa people. Kombokombo's + stockade. Mazitu difficulties. Discovers Lake Bangweolo on 18th + July, 1868. The Lake Chief Mapuni. Description of the Lake. + Prepares to navigate it. Embarks for Lifungé Island. Immense + size of Lake. Reaches Mpabala Island. Strange dream. Fears of + canoe men. Return to shore. March back. Sends letters. Meets + Banyamwezi. Reviews recent explorations at length. Disturbed + state of country. + +CHAPTER XIII. + + Cataracts of the Kalongosi. Passage of the river disputed. + Leeches and method of detaching them. Syde bin Habib's slaves + escape. Enormous collection of tusks. Ill. Theory of the Nile + sources. Tribute to Miss Tinné. Notes on climate. Separation of + Lake Nyassa from the Nile system. Observations on Victoria + Nyanza. Slaves dying. Repentant deserters. Mohamad Bogharib. + Enraged Imbozhwa. An attack. Narrow escape. Renewed attack. A + parley. Help arrives. Bin Juma. March from the Imbozhwa country. + Slaves escape. Burial of Syde bin Habib's brother. Singular + custom. An elephant killed. Native game-laws. Rumour of Baker's + Expedition. Christmas dinners. + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS. + + [DR. LIVINGSTONE, though no artist, had acquired a practice of + making rude sketches of scenes and objects, which have furnished + material for the Engravers in the Illustrations for this book.] + +Full-page Illustrations. + + 1. PORTRAIT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE. (From a Photograph by ANNAN) + 2. SLAVERS REVENGING THEIR LOSSES + 3. SLAVES ABANDONED + 4. CHITAPANGWA RECEIVING DR. LIVINGSTONE + 5. THE VILLAGE ON LAKE LIEMBA--TANGANYIKA + 6. THE ARRIVAL OF HAMEES' BRIDE + 7. DISCOVERY OF LAKE BANGWEOLO + +Smaller Illustrations. + + 1. DR. LIVINGSTONE'S HOUSE, ZANZIBAR + 2. DHOW USED FOR TRANSPORT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S CAMELS + 3. A THORN-CLIMBER + 4. TOMAHAWK AND AXE + 5. CARVED DOOR, ZANZIBAR + 6. TATTOO OF MATAMBWÉ + 7. IMITATION OF BASKET-WORK IN POTTERY + 8. DIGGING-STICK WEIGHTED WITH ROUND STONE + 9. MANGANJA AND MACHINGA WOMEN + 10. TATOO ON WOMEN + 11. CARVED STOOL MADE OF A SINGLE WOODEN BLOCK + 12. WOMEN'S TEETH HOLLOWED OUT + 13. MODE OF FORGING HOES + 14. MALLET FOR SEPARATING FIBRES OF BARK + 15. THE CHIEF CHITAPANGWA + 16. CHITAPANGWA'S WIVES + 17. FILED TEETH OF QUEEN MOÄH + 18. A FOREST GRAVE + +GENERAL MAP OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S OWN DISCOVERIES + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + Arrival at Zanzibar. Hearty reception by Said Majid, the Sultan. + Murder of Baron van der Decken. The slave-market. Preparations + for starting to the interior. Embarkation in H.M.S. _Penguin_ + and dhow. Rovuma Bay impracticable. Disembarks at Mikindany. Joy + at travelling once more. Trouble with sepoys. Camels attacked by + tsetse fly, and by sepoys. Jungle sappers. Meets old enemies. + The Makondé. Lake Nangandi. Gum-copal diggings. + + +ZANZIBAR, _28th January, 1866._--After a passage of twenty-three days +from Bombay we arrived at this island in the _Thule_, which was one of +Captain Sherard Osborne's late Chinese fleet, and now a present from +the Bombay Government to the Sultan of Zanzibar. I was honoured with +the commission to make the formal presentation, and this was intended +by H.E. the Governor-in-Council to show in how much estimation I was +held, and thereby induce the Sultan to forward my enterprise. The +letter to his Highness was a commendatory epistle in my favour, for +which consideration on the part of Sir Bartle Frere I feel deeply +grateful. It runs as follows:-- + + TO HIS HIGHNESS SEJUEL MAJID, SULTAN OF ZANZIBAR. + + (_Copy._) + + "YOUR HIGHNESS,--I trust that this will find you in the + enjoyment of health and happiness. + + "I have requested my friend, Dr. David Livingstone, who is + already personally well and favourably known to your Highness, + to convey to you the assurance of the continual friendship and + goodwill of Her Majesty's Government in India. + + "Your Highness is already aware of the benevolent objects of Dr. + Livingstone's life and labours, and I feel assured that your + Highness will continue to him the favour and protection which + you have already shown to him on former occasions, and that your + Highness will direct every aid to be given him within your + Highness's dominions which may tend to further the philanthropic + designs to which he has devoted himself, and which, as your + Highness is aware, are viewed with the warmest interest by Her + Majesty's Government both in India and England. + + "I trust your Highness will favour me with continued accounts of + your good health and welfare. + + "I remain, your Highness's sincere friend, + + (Signed) "H.B.E. FRERE. + + "BOMBAY CASTLE, _2nd January, 1866._" + +When we arrived Dr. Seward, the Acting Consul, was absent at the +Seychelles on account of serious failure of health: Mr. Schultz, +however, was representing him, but he too was at the time away. Dr. +Seward was expected back daily, and he did arrive on the 31st. I +requested a private interview with the Sultan, and on the following +day (29th) called and told him the nature of my commission to his +Highness. He was very gracious, and seemed pleased with the gift, as +well he might, for the _Thule_ is fitted up in the most gorgeous +manner. We asked a few days to put her in perfect order, and this +being the Ramadân, or fasting month, he was all the more willing to +defer a visit to the vessel. + +Dr. Seward arranged to have an audience with the Sultan, to carry out +his instructions, which were to present me in a formal manner; Captain +Bradshaw of the _Wasp_, with Captain Leatham of the _Vigilant_, and +Bishop Tozer, were to accompany us in full dress, but the Sultan had a +toothache and gumboil, and could not receive us; he, however, placed +one of his houses at my disposal, and appointed a man who speaks +English to furnish board for my men and me, and also for Captain +Brebner, of the _Thule_, and his men. + +[Illustration: Livingstone's House, Zanzibar.] + +_6th February, 1866._--The Sultan being still unable to come, partly +on account of toothache and partly on account of Ramadân, he sent his +commodore, Captain Abdullah, to receive the _Thule_. When the English +flag was hauled down in the _Thule_, it went up to the mainmast of the +_Iskander Shah_, and was saluted by twenty-one guns; then the _Wasp_ +saluted the Arab flag with an equal number, which honour being duly +acknowledged by a second royal salute from the _Iskander Shah_, +Captain Abdullah's frigate, the ceremony ended. + +Next day, the 7th, we were received by the Sultan, and through his +interpreter, I told him that his friend, the Governor of Bombay, had +lately visited the South Mahratta Princes, and had pressed on them the +necessity of education; the world was moving on, and those who +neglected to acquire knowledge would soon find that power slipped +through their fingers, and that the Bombay Government, in presenting +his Highness with a portion of steam power, showed its desire to +impart one of the greatest improvements of modern times, not desiring +to monopolize power, but hoping to lift up others with themselves, and +I wished him to live a hundred years and enjoy all happiness. The idea +was borrowed partly from Sir Bartle Frere's addresses, because I +thought it would have more weight if he heard a little from that +source than if it emanated from myself. He was very anxious that +Captain Brebner and his men, in returning to India, should take a +passage from him in the _Nadir Shah_, one of his men-of-war, and +though he had already placed his things aboard the _Vigilant_, to +proceed to Seychelles, and thence to Bombay, we persuaded Captain +Brebner to accept his Highness's hospitality. He had evidently set his +heart on sending them back with suitable honours, and an hour after +consent was given to go by the _Nadir Shah_, he signed an order for +the money to fit her out. + +_11th February, 1866._--One of the foremost subjects that naturally +occupied my mind here was the sad loss of the Baron van der Decken, on +the River Juba, or Aljib. The first intimation of the unfortunate +termination of his explorations was the appearance of Lieutenant von +Schich at this place, who had left without knowing whether his leader +were dead or alive, but an attack had been made on the encampment +which had been planned after the steamer struck the rocks and filled, +and two of the Europeans were killed. The attacking party came from +the direction in which the Baron and Dr. Link went, and three men of +note in it were slain. Von Schich went back from Zanzibar to Brava to +ascertain the fate of the Baron, and meanwhile several native sailors +from Zanzibar had been allowed to escape from the scene of confusion +to Brava. + +_18th February, 1866._--All the Europeans went to pay visits of +congratulation to his Highness the Sultan upon the conclusion of the +Ramadân, when sweetmeats were placed before us. He desired me to thank +the Governor of Bombay for his magnificent gift, and to state that +although he would like to have me always with him, yet he would show +me the same favour in Africa which he had done here: he added that the +_Thule_ was at my service to take me to the Rovuma whenever I wished +to leave. I replied that nothing had been wanting on his part; he had +done more than I expected, and I was sure that his Excellency the +Governor would be delighted to hear that the vessel promoted his +health and prosperity; nothing would delight him more than this. He +said that he meant to go out in her on Wednesday next (20th): Bishop +Tozer, Captain Fraser, Dr. Steere, and all the English were present. +The sepoys came in and did obeisance; and I pointed out the Nassick +lads as those who had been rescued from slavery, educated, and sent +back to their own country by the Governor. Surely he must see that +some people in the world act from other than selfish motives. + +In the afternoon Sheikh Sulieman, his secretary, came with a letter +for the Governor, to be conveyed by Lieutenant Brebner, I.N., in the +_Nadir Shah_, which is to sail to-morrow. He offered money to the +lieutenant, but this could not be heard of for a moment. + +The translation of the letter is as follows, and is an answer to that +which I brought. + + TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE GOVERNOR OF BOMBAY. + + [After compliments.] + + + "... The end of my desire is to know ever that your + Excellency's health is good. As for me--your friend--I am very + well. + + "Your honoured letter borne by Dr. Livingstone duly reached me, + and all that you said about him I understood. + + "I will show him respect, give him honour, and help him in all + his affairs; and that I have already done this, I trust he will + tell you. + + "I hope you will let me rest in your heart, and that you will + send me many letters. + + "If you need anything I shall be glad, and will give it. + + "Your sincere friend, + + "MAJID BIN SAID. + + "Dated 2nd Shaul, 1282 (18th February, 1866)." + +_2nd March, 1866._--A northern dhow came in with slaves; when this was +reported to the Sultan he ordered it to be burned, and we saw this +done from the window of the Consulate; but he has very little power +over Northern Arabs. He has shown a little vigour of late. He wished +to raise a revenue by a charge of 10 per cent. on all articles brought +into town for sale, but this is clearly contrary to treaty, which +provides that no monopoly shall be permitted, and no dues save that of +5 per cent. import duty. The French Consul bullies him: indeed the +French system of dealing with the natives is well expressed by that +word; no wonder they cannot gain influence among them: the greatest +power they exercise is by lending their flag to slaving dhows, so that +it covers that nefarious traffic. + +The stench arising from a mile and a half or two square miles of +exposed sea beach, which is the general depository of the filth of the +town, is quite horrible. At night it is so gross or crass one might +cut out a slice and manure a garden with it: it might be called +Stinkibar rather than Zanzibar. No one can long enjoy good health +here. + +On visiting the slave-market I found about 300 slaves exposed for +sale, the greater part of whom came from Lake Nyassa and the Shiré +River; I am so familiar with the peculiar faces and markings or +tattooings, that I expect them to recognize me. Indeed one woman said +that she had heard of our passing up Lake Nyassa in a boat, but she +did not see me: others came from Chipéta, S.W. of the Lake. All who +have grown up seem ashamed at being hawked about for sale. The teeth +are examined, the cloth lifted up to examine the lower limbs, and a +stick is thrown for the slave to bring, and thus exhibit his paces. +Some are dragged through the crowd by the hand, and the price called +out incessantly: most of the purchasers were Northern Arabs and +Persians. This is the period when the Sultan's people may not carry +slaves coastwise; but they simply cannot, for the wind is against +them. Many of the dhows leave for Madagascar, and thence come back to +complete their cargoes. + +The Arabs are said to treat their slaves kindly, and this also may be +said of native masters; the reason is, master and slave partake of the +general indolence, but the lot of the slave does not improve with the +general progress in civilization. While no great disparity of rank +exists, his energies are little tasked, but when society advances, +wants multiply; and to supply these the slave's lot grows harder. The +distance between master and man increases as the lust of gain is +developed, hence we can hope for no improvement in the slave's +condition, unless the master returns to or remains in barbarism. + +_6th March, 1866._--Rains have begun now that the sun is overhead. We +expect the _Penguin_ daily to come from Johanna, and take us to the +Rovuma. It is an unwholesome place; six of my men have fever; few +retain health long, and considering the lowness of the island, and the +absence of sanitary regulations in the town, it is not to be wondered +at. The Sultan has little power, being only the successor to the +captain of the horde of Arabs who came down and overran the island and +maritime coasts of the adjacent continent. He is called only Said or +Syed, never Sultan; and they can boast of choosing a new one if he +does not suit them. Some coins were found in digging here which have +Cufic inscriptions, and are about 900 years old. The island is low; +the highest parts may not be more than 150 feet above the sea; it is +of a coral formation, with sandstone conglomerate. Most of the plants +are African, but clove-trees, mangoes, and cocoa-nut groves give a +luxuriant South Sea Island look to the whole scenery. + +We visited an old man to-day, the richest in Zanzibar, who is to give +me letters to his friends at Tanganyika, and I am trying to get a +depôt of goods for provisions formed there, so that when I reach it I +may not be destitute. + +_18th March, 1866._--I have arranged with Koorje, a Banian, who farms +the custom-house revenue here, to send a supply of beads, cloth, +flour, tea, coffee, and sugar, to Ujiji, on Lake Tanganyika. The Arab +there, with whom one of Koorje's people will remain in charge of the +goods, is called Thani bin Suelim. + +Yesterday we went to take leave of the Sultan, and to thank him for +all his kindness to me and my men, which has indeed been very great. +He offered me men to go with me, and another letter if I wished it. He +looks very ill. + +I have received very great kindness during my stay from Dr. and Mrs. +Seward. They have done everything for me in their power: may God +Almighty return it all abundantly into their bosoms, in the way that +He best can. Dr. Seward's views of the policy pursued here I have no +doubt are the right ones; in fact, the only ones which can be looked +back to with satisfaction, or that have probability of success among a +race of Pariah Arabs. + +The _Penguin_ came a few days ago, and Lieutenant Garforth in command +agrees to take me down to the Rovuma River, and land me there. I have +a dhow to take my animals: six camels, three buffaloes, and a calf, +two mules, and four donkeys. I have thirteen Sepoys, ten Johanna men, +nine Nassick boys, two Shupanga men, and two Wayaus, Wekatani and +Chuma.[3] + +[It may be well to point out that several of these men had previously +been employed by Dr. Livingstone on the Zambesi and Shiré; thus Musa, +the Johanna man, was a sailor on the _Lady Nyassa_, whilst Susi and +Amoda were engaged at Shupanga to cut wood for the _Pioneer_. The two +Waiyau lads, Wakatani and Chuma, were liberated from the slavers by +the Doctor and Bishop Mackenzie in 1861, and lived for three years +with the Mission party at Chibisa's before they were engaged by +Livingstone. The Nassick lads were entire strangers, and were trained +in India.] + +_19th March, 1866._--We start this morning at 10 A.M. I trust that the +Most High may prosper me in this work, granting me influence in the +eyes of the heathen, and helping me to make my intercourse beneficial +to them. + +_22nd March, 1866._--We reached Rovuma Bay to-day, and anchored about +two miles from the mouth of the river, in five fathoms. I went up the +left bank to see if the gullies which formerly ran into the bay had +altered, so as to allow camels to cross them: they seemed to have +become shallower. There was no wind for the dhow, and as for the +man-of-war towing her, it was out of the question. On the 23rd the +cutter did try to tow the dhow, but without success, as a strong tide +runs constantly out of the river at this season. A squall came up from +the S.E., which would have taken the dhow in, but the master was on +board the _Penguin_, and said he had no large sail. I got him off to +his vessel, but the wind died away before we could reach the mouth of +the river. + +_24th March, 1866._--I went to the dhow, and there being no wind I +left orders with the captain to go up the right bank should a breeze +arise. Mr. Fane, midshipman, accompanied me up the left bank above, to +see if we could lead the camels along in the water. Near the point +where the river first makes a little bend to the north, we landed and +found three formidable gullies, and jungle so thick with bush, +date-palms, twining bamboo, and hooked thorns, that one could scarcely +get along. Further inland it was sticky mud, thickly planted over with +mangrove roots and gullies in whose soft banks one sank over the +ankles. No camels could have moved, and men with extreme difficulty +might struggle through; but we never could have made an available +road. We came to a she-hippopotamus lying in a ditch, which did not +cover her; Mr. Fane fired into her head, and she was so upset that she +nearly fell backward in plunging up the opposite bank: her calf was +killed, and was like sucking-pig, though in appearance as large as a +full-grown sow. + +We now saw that the dhow had a good breeze, and she came up along the +right bank and grounded at least a mile from the spot where the +mangroves ceased. The hills, about two hundred feet high, begin about +two or three miles above that, and they looked invitingly green and +cool. My companion and I went from the dhow inland, to see if the +mangroves gave way, to a more walkable country, but the swamp covered +over thickly with mangroves only became worse the farther we receded +from the river. The whole is flooded at high tides, and had we landed +all the men we should have been laid up with fever ere we could have +attained the higher land, which on the right bank bounds the line of +vision, and the first part of which lies so near. I thought I had +better land on the sand belt on the left of Rovuma Bay, and then +explore and get information from the natives, none of whom had as yet +come near us, so I ordered the dhow to come down to the spot next day, +and went on board the _Penguin_. Lieutenant Garforth was excessively +kind, and though this is his best time for cruising in the North, he +most patiently agreed to wait and help me to land. + +_24th March, 1866._--During the night it occurred to me that we should +be in a mess if after exploration and information from the natives we +could find no path, and when I mentioned this, Lieutenant Garforth +suggested that we should proceed to Kilwa, so at 5 A.M. I went up to +the dhow with Mr. Fane, and told the captain that we were going there. +He was loud in his protestations against this, and strongly +recommended the port of Mikindany, as quite near to Rovuma, Nyassa, +and the country I wished to visit, besides being a good landing-place, +and the finest port on the coast. Thither we went, and on the same +evening landed all our animals in Mikindany bay, which lies only +twenty-five miles N. of Rovuma. The _Penguin_ then left. + +The Rovuma is quite altered from what it was when first we visited it. +It is probable that the freshets form banks inside the mouth, which +are washed out into the deep bay, and this periodical formation +probably has prevented the Arabs from using the Rovuma as a port of +shipment. It is not likely that Mr. May[4] would have made a mistake +if the middle were as shoal as now: he found soundings of three +fathoms or more. + +[Illustration: Dhow used for Transport of Dr. Livingstone's Camels.] + +_25th March, 1866._--I hired a house for four dollars a month and +landed all our goods from the dhow. The bay gives off a narrow +channel, about 500 yards wide and 200 yards long, the middle is deep, +but the sides are coral reefs and shoal: the deep part seems about 100 +yards wide. Outside in the Bay of Mikindany there is no anchorage +except on the edge of the reef where the _Penguin_ got seven fathoms, +but further in it was only two fathoms. The inner bay is called Pemba, +not Pimlea, as erroneously printed in the charts of Owen. It is deep +and quite sheltered; another of a similar round form lies somewhat to +the south: this bay may be two miles square. + +The cattle are all very much the worse for being knocked about in the +dhow. We began to prepare saddles of a very strong tree called Ntibwé, +which is also used for making the hooked spear with which hippopotami +are killed--the hook is very strong and tough; I applied also for +twenty carriers and a Banian engaged to get them as soon as possible. +The people have no cattle here, they are half-caste Arabs mostly, and +quite civil to us. + +_26th March, 1866._--A few of the Nassick boys have the slave spirit +pretty strongly; it goes deepest in those who have the darkest skins. +Two Gallah men are the most intelligent and hardworking among them; +some look on work with indifference when others are the actors. + +Now that I am on the point of starting on another trip into Africa I +feel quite exhilarated: when one travels with the specific object in +view of ameliorating the condition of the natives every act becomes +ennobled. + +Whether exchanging the customary civilities, or arriving at a village, +accepting a night's lodging, purchasing food for the party, asking for +information, or answering polite African enquiries as to our objects +in travelling, we begin to spread a knowledge of that people by whose +agency their land will yet become enlightened and freed from the +slave-trade. + +The mere animal pleasure of travelling in a wild unexplored country is +very great. When on lands of a couple of thousand feet elevation, +brisk exercise imparts elasticity to the muscles, fresh and healthy +blood circulates through the brain, the mind works well, the eye is +clear, the step is firm, and a day's exertion always makes the +evening's repose thoroughly enjoyable. + +We have usually the stimulus of remote chances of danger either from +beasts or men. Our sympathies are drawn out towards our humble hardy +companions by a community of interests, and, it may be, of perils, +which make us all friends. Nothing but the most pitiable puerility +would lead any manly heart to make their inferiority a theme for +self-exaltation; however, that is often done, as if with the vague +idea that we can, by magnifying their deficiencies, demonstrate our +immaculate perfections. + +The effect of travel on a man whose heart is in the right place is +that the mind is made more self-reliant: it becomes more confident of +its own resources--there is greater presence of mind. The body is soon +well-knit; the muscles of the limbs grow as hard as a board, and seem +to have no fat; the countenance is bronzed, and there is no dyspepsia. +Africa is a most wonderful country for appetite, and it is only when +one gloats over marrow bones or elephant's feet that indigestion is +possible. No doubt much toil is involved, and fatigue of which +travellers in the more temperate climes can form but a faint +conception; but the sweat of one's brow is no longer a curse when one +works for God: it proves a tonic to the system, and is actually a +blessing. No one can truly appreciate the charm of repose unless he +has undergone severe exertion. + +_27th March, 1866._--The point of land which on the north side of the +entrance to the harbour narrows it to about 300 yards is alone called +Pemba; the other parts have different names. Looking northwards from +the point, the first hundred yards has ninety square houses of wattled +daub; a ruin (a mosque) has been built of lime and coral. The whole +point is coral, and the soil is red, and covered over with dense +tropical vegetation, in which the baobab is conspicuous. Dhows at +present come in with ease by the easterly wind which blows in the +evening, and leave next morning, the land wind taking them out. + +While the camels and other animals are getting over their fatigues +and bad bruises, we are making camels' saddles, and repairing those of +the mules and buffaloes. Oysters abound on all the rocks and on the +trees over which the tide flows: they are small, but much relished by +the people. + +The Arabs here are a wretched lot physically--thin, washed-out +creatures--many with bleared eyes. + +_29-30th March, 1866._--- This harbour has somewhat the shape of a +bent bow or the spade on a playing-card, the shaft of the arrow being +the entrance in; the passage is very deep, but not more than 100 yards +wide, and it goes in nearly S.W.; inside it is deep and quite secure, +and protected from all winds. The lands westward rise at once to about +200 feet, and John, a hill, is the landmark by which it is best known +in coming along the coast--so say the Arabs. The people have no +cattle, but say there are no tsetse flies: they have not been +long here, _i.e._ under the present system; but a ruin on the +northern peninsula or face of the entrance, built of stone and +lime--Arab-fashion, and others on the north-west, show that the place +has been known and used of old. The adjacent country has large game at +different water pools, and as the whole country is somewhat elevated +it probably is healthy. There is very little mangrove, but another +enclosed piece of water to the south of this probably has more. The +language of the people here is Swaheli; they trade a little in +gum-copal and Orchilla weed. An agent of the Zanzibar custom-house +presides over the customs, which are very small, and a jemidar +acknowledging the Sultan is the chief authority; but the people are +little superior to the natives whom they have displaced. The jemidar +has been very civil to me, and gives me two guides to go on to Adondé, +but no carriers can be hired. Water is found in wells in the coral +rock which underlies the whole place. + +_4th April, 1866._--When about to start from Pemba, at the entrance to +the other side of the bay one of our buffaloes gored a donkey so +badly that he had to be shot: we cut off the tips of the offender's +horns, on the principle of "locking the stable-door when the steed is +stolen," and marched. We came to level spots devoid of vegetation, and +hard on the surface, but a deposit of water below allowed the camels +to sink up to their bodies through the crust. Hauling them out, we got +along to the jemidar's house, which is built of coral and lime. Hamesh +was profuse in his professions of desire to serve, but gave a shabby +hut which let in rain and wind. I slept one night in it, and it was +unbearable, so I asked the jemidar to allow me to sleep in his +court-room, where many of the sepoys were: he consented, but when I +went refused; then, being an excitable, nervous Arab, he took fright, +mustered all his men, amounting to about fifteen, with matchlocks; ran +off, saying he was going to kill a lion; came back, shook hands +nervously with me, vowing it was a man who would not obey him, "it was +not you." + +Our goods were all out in the street, bound on the pack-saddles, so at +night we took the ordinary precaution of setting a guard. This excited +our dignitary, and after dark all his men were again mustered with +matches lighted. I took no notice of him, and after he had spent a +good deal of talk, which we could hear, he called Musa and asked what +I meant. The explanations of Musa had the effect of sending him to +bed, and in the morning, when I learned how much I had most +unintentionally disturbed him, I told him that I was sorry, but it did +not occur to me to tell him about an ordinary precaution against +thieves. He thought he had given me a crushing reply when he said with +vehemence, "But there are no thieves here." I did not know till +afterwards that he and others had done me an ill turn in saying that +no carriers could be hired from the independent tribes adjacent. They +are low-coast Arabs, three-quarters African, and, as usual, possess +the bad without the good qualities of both parents. Many of them came +and begged brandy, and laughed when they remarked that they could +drink it in secret but not openly; they have not, however, introduced +it as an article of trade, as we Christians have done on the West +Coast. + +_6th April, 1866._--We made a short march round to the south-west side +of the Lake, and spent the night at a village in that direction. There +are six villages dotted round the inner harbour, and the population +may amount to 250 or 300 souls--coast Arabs and their slaves; the +southern portion of the harbour is deep, from ten to fourteen fathoms, +but the north-western part is shoal and rocky. Very little is done in +the way of trade; some sorghum, sem-sem seed, gum-copal, and orchilla +weed, constitute the commerce of the port: I saw two Banian traders +settled here. + +_7th April, 1866._--Went about south from Kindany with a Somalie +guide, named Ben Ali or Bon Ali, a good-looking obliging man, who was +to get twenty dollars to take us up to Ngomano. Our path lay in a +valley, with well-wooded heights on each side, but the grass towered +over our heads, and gave the sensation of smothering, whilst the sun +beat down on our heads very fiercely, and there was not a breath of +air stirring. Not understanding camels, I had to trust to the sepoys +who overloaded them, and before we had accomplished our march of about +seven miles they were knocked up. + +_8th April, 1866._--We spent the Sunday at a village called Nyańgedi. +Here on the evening of the 7th April our buffaloes and camels were +first bitten by the tsetse fly.[5] We had passed through some pieces +of dense jungle which, though they offered no obstruction to +foot-passengers, but rather an agreeable shade, had to be cut for the +tall camels, and fortunately we found the Makondé of this village +glad to engage themselves by the day either as woodcutters or +carriers. We had left many things with the jemidar from an idea that +no carriers could be procured. I lightened the camels, and had a party +of woodcutters to heighten and widen the path in the dense jungle into +which we now penetrated. Every now and then we emerged on open spaces, +where the Makondé have cleared gardens for sorghum, maize, and +cassava. The people were very much more taken up with the camels and +buffaloes than with me. They are all independent of each other, and no +paramount chief exists. Their foreheads may be called compact, narrow, +and rather low; the _alae nasi_ expanded laterally; lips full, not +excessively thick; limbs and body well formed; hands and feet small; +colour dark and light-brown; height middle size, and bearing +independent. + +_10th April, 1866._--We reached a village called Narri, lat. 10° 23' +14" S. Many of the men had touches of fever. I gave medicine to eleven +of them, and next morning all were better. Food is abundant and cheap. +Our course is nearly south, and in "wadys," from which, following the +trade-road, we often ascend the heights, and then from the villages, +which are on the higher land, we descend to another on the same wady. +No running water is seen; the people depend on wells for a supply. + +_11th April, 1866._--At Tandahara we were still ascending as we went +south; the soil is very fertile, with a good admixture of sand in it, +but no rocks are visible. Very heavy crops of maize and sorghum are +raised, and the cassava bushes are seven feet in height. The bamboos +are cleared off them, spread over the space to be cultivated and +burned to serve as manure. Iron is very scarce, for many of the men +appear with wooden spears; they find none here, but in some spots +where an ooze issued from the soil iron rust appeared. At each of the +villages where we spent a night we presented a fathom of calico, and +the headman always gave a fowl or two, and a basket of rice or maize. +The Makondé dialect is quite different from Swaheli, but from their +intercourse with the coast Arabs many of the people here have acquired +a knowledge of Swaheli. + +[Illustration: A Thorn-climber.] + +_12th April, 1866._--On starting we found the jungle so dense that the +people thought "there was no cutting it:" it continued upwards of +three miles. The trees are not large, but so closely planted together +that a great deal of labour was required to widen and heighten the +path: where bamboos prevail they have starved out the woody trees. The +reason why the trees are not large is because all the spaces we passed +over were formerly garden ground before the Makondé had been thinned +by the slave-trade. As soon as a garden is deserted, a thick crop of +trees of the same sorts as those formerly cut down springs up, and +here the process of woody trees starving out their fellows, and +occupying the land without dense scrub below, has not had time to work +itself out. Many are mere poles, and so intertwined with climbers as +to present the appearance of a ship's ropes and cables shaken in among +them, and many have woody stems as thick as an eleven-inch hawser. One +species may be likened to the scabbard of a dragoon's sword, but along +the middle of the flat side runs a ridge, from which springs up every +few inches a bunch of inch-long straight sharp thorns. It hangs +straight for a couple of yards, but as if it could not give its thorns +a fair chance of mischief, it suddenly bends on itself, and all its +cruel points are now at right angles to what they were before. +Darwin's observation shows a great deal of what looks like instinct in +these climbers. This species seems to be eager for mischief; its +tangled limbs hang out ready to inflict injury on all passers-by. +Another climber is so tough it is not to be broken by the fingers; +another appears at its root as a young tree, but it has the straggling +habits of its class, as may be seen by its cords stretched some fifty +or sixty feet off; it is often two inches in diameter; you cut it +through at one part and find it reappear forty yards off. + +[Illustration: Tomahawk and Axe.] + +Another climber is like the leaf of an aloe, but convoluted as +strangely as shavings from the plane of a carpenter. It is dark green +in colour, and when its bark is taken off it is beautifully striated +beneath, lighter and darker green, like the rings of growth on wood; +still another is a thin string with a succession of large knobs, and +another has its bark pinched up all round at intervals so as to +present a great many cutting edges. One sort need scarcely be +mentioned, in which all along its length are strong bent hooks, placed +in a way that will hold one if it can but grapple with him, for that +is very common and not like those mentioned, which the rather seem to +be stragglers from the carboniferous period of geologists, when +Pachydermata wriggled unscathed among tangled masses worse than these. +We employed about ten jolly young Makondé to deal with these +prehistoric plants in their own way, for they are accustomed to +clearing spaces for gardens, and went at the work with a will, using +tomahawks well adapted for the work. They whittled away right +manfully, taking an axe when any trees had to be cut. Their pay, +arranged beforehand, was to be one yard of calico per day: this is not +much, seeing we are still so near the sea-coast. Climbers and young +trees melted before them like a cloud before the sun! Many more would +have worked than we employed, but we used the precaution of taking +the names of those engaged. The tall men became exhausted soonest, +while the shorter men worked vigorously still--but a couple of days' +hard work seemed to tell on the best of them. It is doubtful if any +but meat-eating people can stand long-continued labour without +exhaustion: the Chinese may be an exception. When French navvies were +first employed they could not do a tithe of the work of our English +ones; but when the French were fed in the same style as the English, +they performed equally well. Here the Makondé have rarely the chance +of a good feed of meat: it is only when one of them is fortunate +enough to spear a wild hog or an antelope that they know this luxury; +if a fowl is eaten they get but a taste of it with their porridge. + +_13th April, 1866._--We now began to descend the northern slope down +to the Rovuma, and a glimpse could occasionally be had of the country; +it seemed covered with great masses of dark green forest, but the +undulations occasionally looked like hills, and here and there a +Sterculia had put on yellow foliage in anticipation of the coming +winter. More frequently our vision was circumscribed to a few yards +till our merry woodcutters made for us the pleasant scene of a long +vista fit for camels to pass: as a whole, the jungle would have made +the authors of the natty little hints to travellers smile at their own +productions, good enough, perhaps, where one has an open country with +trees and hills; by which to take bearings, estimate distances, see +that one point is on the same latitude, another on the same longitude +with such another, and all to be laid down fair and square with +protractor and compass, but so long as we remained within the +vegetation, that is fed by the moisture from the Indian Ocean, the +steamy, smothering air, and dank, rank, luxuriant vegetation made me +feel, like it, struggling for existence,--and no more capable of +taking bearings than if I had been in a hogshead and observing through +the bunghole! + +An old Monyińko headman presented a goat and asked if the sepoys +wished to cut its throat: the Johannees, being of a different sect of +Mahometans, wanted to cut it in some other way than their Indian +co-religionists: then ensued a fierce dispute as to who was of the +right sort of Moslem! It was interesting to see that not Christians +alone, but other nations feel keenly on religious subjects. + +I saw rocks of grey sandstone (like that which overlies coal) and the +Rovuma in the distance. Didi is the name of a village whose headsman, +Chombokëa, is said to be a doctor; all the headmen pretend or are +really doctors; however one, Fundindomba, came after me for medicine +for himself. + +_14th April, 1866._--To-day we succeeded in reaching the Rovuma, where +some very red cliffs appear on the opposite heights, and close by +where it is marked on the map that the _Pioneer_ turned back in 1861. +Here we rested on Sunday 15th. + +_16th April, 1866._--Our course now lay westwards, along the side of +that ragged outline of table-land, which we had formerly seen from the +river as flanking both sides. There it appeared a range of hills +shutting in Rovuma, here we had spurs jutting out towards the river, +and valleys retiring from a mile to three miles inland. Sometimes we +wended our way round them, sometimes rose over and descended their +western sides, and then a great deal of wood-cutting was required. The +path is not straight, but from one village to another. We came +perpetually on gardens, and remarked that rice was sown among the +other grain; there must be a good deal of moisture at other times to +admit of this succeeding: at present the crops were suffering for want +of rain. We could purchase plenty of rice for the sepoys, and well it +was so, for the supply which was to last till we arrived at Ngomano +was finished on the 13th. An old doctor, with our food awaiting, +presented me with two large bags of rice and his wife husked it for +us. + +_17th April, 1866._--I had to leave the camels in the hands of the +sepoys: I ordered them to bring as little luggage as possible, and the +Havildar assured me that two buffaloes were amply sufficient to carry +all they would bring. I now find that they have more than full loads +for two buffaloes, two mules, and two donkeys; but when these animals +fall down under them, they assure me with so much positiveness that +they are not overloaded, that I have to be silent, or only, as I have +several times done before, express the opinion that they will kill +these animals. This observation on my part leads them to hide their +things in the packs of the camels, which also are over-burdened. I +fear that my experiment with the tsetse will be vitiated, but no +symptoms yet occur in any of the camels except weariness.[6] The sun +is very sharp; it scorches. Nearly all the sepoys had fever, but it is +easily cured; they never required to stop marching, and we cannot make +over four or five miles a day, which movement aids in the cure. In all +cases of fever removal from the spot of attack should be made: after +the fever among the sepoys, the Nassick boys took their turn along +with the Johannees. + +_18th April, 1866._--Ben Ali misled us away up to the north in spite +of my protest, when we turned in that direction; he declared that was +the proper path. We had much wood-cutting, and found that our course +that day and next was to enable him to visit and return from one of +his wives--a comely Makondé woman! He brought her to call on me, and I +had to be polite to the lady, though we lost a day by the zigzag. This +is one way by which the Arabs gain influence; a great many very +light-coloured people are strewed among the Makondé, but only one of +these had the Arab hair. On asking Ali whether any attempts had been +made by Arabs to convert those with whom they enter into such intimate +relationships, he replied that the Makondé had no idea of a Deity--no +one could teach them, though Makondé slaves when taken to the coast +and elsewhere were made Mahometans. Since the slave-trade was +introduced this tribe has much diminished in numbers, and one village +makes war upon another and kidnaps, but no religious teaching has been +attempted. The Arabs come down to the native ways, and make no efforts +to raise the natives to theirs; it is better that it is so, for the +coast Arab's manners and morals would be no improvement on the pagan +African! + +_19th April, 1866._--We were led up over a hill again, and on to the +level of the plateau (where the evaporation is greater than in the +valley), and tasted water of an agreeable coldness for the first time +this journey. The people, especially the women, are very rude, and the +men very eager to be employed as woodcutters. Very merry they are at +it, and every now and then one raises a cheerful shout, in which all +join. I suppose they are urged on by a desire to please their wives +with a little clothing. The higher up the Rovuma we ascend the people +are more and more tattooed on the face, and on all parts of the body. +The teeth are filed to points, and huge lip-rings are worn by the +women; some few Mabeha men from the south side of the river have +lip-rings too. + +_20th April, 1866._--A Johanna man allowed the camels to trespass and +destroy a man's tobacco patch: the owner would not allow us after this +to pass through his rice-field, in which the route lay. I examined the +damage, and made the Johanna man pay a yard of calico for it, which +set matters all right. + +Tsetse are biting the buffaloes again. Elephants, hippopotami, and +pigs are the only game here, but we see none: the tsetse feed on +them. In the low meadow land, from one to three miles broad, which +lies along both banks, we have brackish pools, and one, a large one, +which we passed, called Wrongwé, had much fish, and salt is got from +it. + +_21st April, 1866._--After a great deal of cutting we reached the +valley of Mehambwé to spend Sunday, all glad that it had come round +again. Here some men came to our camp from Ndondé, who report that an +invasion of Mazitu had three months ago swept away all the food out of +the country, and they are now obliged to send in every direction for +provisions. When saluting, they catch each other's hands and say, "Ai! +Ai!" but the general mode (introduced, probably by the Arabs) is to +take hold of the right hand, and say, "Marhaba" (welcome). + +A wall-eyed ill-looking fellow, who helped to urge on the attack on +our first visit in 1861, and the man to whom I gave cloth to prevent a +collision, came about us disguised in a jacket. I knew him well, but +said nothing to him.[7] + +_23rd April, 1866._--When we marched this morning we passed the spot +where an animal had been burned in the fire, and on enquiry I found +that it is the custom when a leopard is killed to take off the skin +and consume the carcase thus, because the Makondé do not eat it. The +reason they gave for not eating flesh which is freely eaten by other +tribes, is that the leopard devours men; this shows the opposite of an +inclination to cannibalism. + +All the rocks we had seen showed that the plateau consists of grey +sandstone, capped by a ferruginous sandy conglomerate. We now came to +blocks of silicified wood lying on the surface; it is so like recent +wood, that no one who has not handled it would conceive it to be +stone and not wood: the outer surface preserves the grain or woody +fibre, the inner is generally silica. + +Buffaloes bitten by tsetse again show no bad effects from it: one mule +is, however, dull and out of health; I thought that this might be the +effect of the bite till I found that his back was so strained that he +could not stoop to drink, and could only eat the tops of the grasses. +An ox would have been ill in two days after the biting on the 7th. + +A carrier stole a shirt, and went off unsuspected; when the loss was +ascertained, the man's companions tracked him with Ben Ali by night, +got him in his hut, and then collected the headmen of the village, who +fined him about four times the value of what had been stolen. They +came back in the morning without seeming to think that they had done +aught to be commended; this was the only case of theft we had noticed, +and the treatment showed a natural sense of justice. + +_24th April, 1866._--We had showers occasionally, but at night all the +men were under cover of screens. The fevers were speedily cured; no +day was lost by sickness, but we could not march more than a few +miles, owing to the slowness of the sepoys; they are a heavy drag on +us, and of no possible use, except when acting as sentries at night. + +When in the way between Kendany and Rovuma, I observed a plant here, +called _Mandaré_, the root of which is in taste and appearance like a +waxy potato; I saw it once before at the falls below the Barotsé +Valley, in the middle of the continent; it had been brought there by +an emigrant, who led out the water for irrigation, and it still +maintained its place in the soil. Would this not prove valuable in the +soil of India? I find that it is not cultivated further up the country +of the Makondé, but I shall get Ali to secure some for Bombay. + +_25th April, 1866._--A serpent bit Jack, our dog, above the eye, the +upper eyelid swelled very much, but no other symptoms appeared, and +next day all swelling was gone; the serpent was either harmless, or +the quantity of poison injected very small. The pace of the camels is +distressingly slow, and it suits the sepoys to make it still slower +than natural by sitting down to smoke and eat. The grass is high and +ground under it damp and steamy. + +_26th April, 1866._--On the 25th we reached Narri, and resolved to +wait the next day and buy food, as it is not so plentiful in front; +the people are eager traders in meal, fowls, eggs, and honey; the +women are very rude. Yesterday I caught a sepoy, Pando, belabouring a +camel with a big stick as thick as any part of his arm, the path being +narrow, it could not get out of his way; I shouted to him to desist; +he did not know I was in sight, to-day the effect of the bad usage is +seen in the animal being quite unable to move its leg: inflammation +has set up in the hip-joint. I am afraid that several bruises which +have festered on the camels, and were to me unaccountable, have been +wilfully bestowed. This same Pando and another left Zanzibar drunk: he +then stole a pair of socks from me, and has otherwise been perfectly +useless, even a pimple on his leg was an excuse for doing nothing for +many days. We had to leave this camel at Narri under charge of the +headman. + +_28th April, 1866._--The hills on the north now retire out of our +sight. A gap in the southern plateau gives passage to a small river, +which arises in a lakelet of some size, eight or ten miles inland: the +river and lakelet are both called Nangadi; the latter is so broad that +men cannot be distinguished, even by the keen eyes of the natives on +the other side: it is very deep, and abounds in large fish; the people +who live there are Mabiha. A few miles above this gap the southern +highland falls away, and there are lakelets on marshes, also +abounding in fish, an uninhabited space next succeeds, and then we +have the Matambwé country, which extends up to Ngomano. The Matambwé +seem to be a branch of the Makondé, and a very large one: their +country extends a long way south, and is well stocked with elephants +and gum-copal trees. + +They speak a language slightly different from that of the Makondé, but +they understand them. The Matambwé women are, according to Ali, very +dark, but very comely, though they do wear the lip-ring. They carry +their ivory, gum-copal, and slaves to Ibo or Wibo. + +_29th April, 1866._--We spend Sunday, the 29th, on the banks of the +Rovuma, at a village called Nachuchu, nearly opposite Konayumba, the +first of the Matambwé, whose chief is called Kimbembé. Ali draws a +very dark picture of the Makondé. He says they know nothing of a +Deity, they pray to their mothers when in distress or dying; know +nothing of a future state, nor have they any religion except a belief +in medicine; and every headsman is a doctor. No Arab has ever tried to +convert them, but occasionally a slave taken to the coast has been +circumcised in order to be clean; some of them pray, and say they know +not the ordeal or muavi. The Nassick boys failed me when I tried to +communicate some knowledge through them. They say they do not +understand the Makondé language, though some told me that they came +from Ndondé's, which is the head-quarters of the Makondé. Ali says +that the Makondé blame witches for disease and death; when one of a +village dies, the whole population departs, saying "that is a bad +spot." They are said to have been notorious for fines, but an awe has +come over them, and no complaints have been made, though our animals +in passing the gardens have broken a good deal of corn. Ali says they +fear the English. This is an answer to my prayer for influence on the +minds of the heathen. I regret that I cannot speak to them that good +of His name which I ought. + +I went with the Makondé to see a specimen of the gum-copal tree in the +vicinity of this village. The leaves are in pairs, glossy green, with +the veins a little raised on both face and back; the smaller branches +diverge from the same point: the fruit, of which we saw the shells, +seems to be a nut; some animal had in eating them cut them through. +The bark of the tree is of a light ash colour; the gum was oozing from +the bark at wounded places, and it drops on the ground from branches; +it is thus that insects are probably imbedded in the gum-copal. The +people dig in the vicinity of modern trees in the belief that the more +ancient trees which dropped their gum before it became an article of +commerce must have stood there. "In digging, none may be found on one +day but God (Mungu) may give it to us on the next." To this all the +Makondé present assented, and showed me the consciousness of His +existence was present in their minds. The Makondé get the gum in large +quantities, and this attracts the coast Arabs, who remain a long time +in the country purchasing it. Hernia humoralis abounds; it is ascribed +to beer-drinking. + +_30th April, 1866._--Many ulcers burst forth on the camels; some seem +old dhow bruises. They come back from pasture, bleeding in a way that +no rubbing against a tree would account for. I am sorry to suspect +foul play: the buffaloes and mules are badly used, but I cannot be +always near to prevent it. + +Bhang[8] is not smoked, but tobacco is: the people have no sheep or +goats; only fowls, pigeons, and Muscovy ducks are seen. Honey is very +cheap; a good large pot of about a gallon, with four fowls, was given +for two yards of calico. Buffaloes again bitten by tsetse, and by +another fly exactly like the house-fly, but having a straight hard +proboscis instead of a soft one; other large flies make the blood run. +The tsetse does not disturb the buffaloes, but these others and the +smaller flies do. The tsetse seem to like the camel best; from these +they are gorged with blood--they do not seem to care for the mules and +donkeys. + +[Illustration: Carved Door, Zanzibar.] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[3] Dhow is the name given to the coasting vessel of East Africa and +the Indian Ocean. + +[4] The Commander of H.M.S. _Pioneer_ in 1861. + +[5] Those who have read the accounts given by African travellers will +remember that the bites inflicted by two or three of these small flies +will visually lay the foundation of a sickness which destroys oxen, +horses, and dogs in a few weeks. + +[6] Dr. Livingstone was anxious to try camels and Indian buffaloes in +a tsetse country to see the effect upon them. + +[7] This refers to an attack made upon the boats of the _Pioneer_ when +the Doctor was exploring the River Rovuma in 1861. + +[8] A species of hemp. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + Effect of _Pioneer's_ former visit. The poodle Chitané. Result + of tsetse bites. Death of camels and buffaloes. Disaffection of + followers. Disputed right of ferry. Mazitu raids. An old friend. + Severe privations. The River Loendi. Sepoys mutiny. Dr. Roscher. + Desolation. Tattooing. Ornamental teeth. Singular custom. Death + of the Nassick boy, Richard. A sad reminiscence. + + +_1st May, 1866._--We now came along through a country comparatively +free of wood, and we could move on without perpetual cutting and +clearing. It is beautiful to get a good glimpse out on the surrounding +scenery, though it still seems nearly all covered with great masses of +umbrageous foliage, mostly of a dark green colour, for nearly all of +the individual trees possess dark glossy leaves like laurel. We passed +a gigantic specimen of the Kumbé, or gum-copal tree. Kumba means to +dig. Changkumbé, or things dug, is the name of the gum; the Arabs call +it "sandarusé." Did the people give the name Kumbé to the tree after +the value of the gum became known to them? The Malolé, from the fine +grained wood of which all the bows are made, had shed its fruit on the +ground; it looks inviting to the eye--an oblong peach-looking thing, +with a number of seeds inside, but it is eaten by maggots only. + +When we came to Ntandé's village, we found it enclosed in a strong +stockade, from a fear of attack by Mabiha, who come across the river +and steal their women when going to draw water: this is for the Ibo +market. They offered to pull down their stockade and let us in if we +would remain over-night, but we declined. Before reaching Ntandé we +passed the ruins of two villages; the owners were the attacking party +when we ascended the Rovuma in 1862. I have still the old sail, with +four bullet-holes through it, made by the shots which they fired after +we had given cloth and got assurances of friendship. The father and +son of this village were the two men seen by the second boat preparing +to shoot; the fire of her crew struck the father on the chin and the +son on the head. It may have been for the best that the English are +thus known as people who can hit hard when unjustly attacked, as we on +this occasion most certainly were: never was a murderous assault more +unjustly made or less provoked. They had left their villages and gone +up over the highlands away from the river to their ambush whilst their +women came to look at us. + +_2nd May, 1866._--Mountains again approach us, and we pass one which +was noticed in our first ascent from its resemblance to a table +mountain. It is 600 or 800 feet high, and called Liparu: the plateau +now becomes mountainous, giving forth a perennial stream which comes +down from its western base and forms a lagoon on the meadow-land that +flanks the Rovuma. The trees which love these perpetual streams spread +their roots all over the surface of the boggy banks, and make a firm +surface, but at spots one may sink a yard deep. We had to fill up +these deep ditches with branches and leaves, unload the animals, and +lead them across. We spent the night on the banks of the Liparu,[9] +and then proceeded on our way. + +_3rd May, 1866._--We rested in a Makoa village, the head of which was +an old woman. The Makoa or Makoané are known by a half-moon figure +tattooed on their foreheads or elsewhere. Our poodle dog Chitané +chased the dogs of this village with unrelenting fury, his fierce +looks inspired terror among the wretched pariah dogs of a yellow and +white colour, and those looks were entirely owing to its being +difficult to distinguish at which end his head or tail lay. He enjoyed +the chase of the yelping curs immensely, but if one of them had turned +he would have bolted the other way. + +A motherly-looking woman came forward and offered me some meal; this +was when we were in the act of departing: others had given food to the +men and no return had been made. I told her to send it on by her +husband, and I would purchase it, but it would have been better to +have accepted it: some give merely out of kindly feeling and with no +prospect of a return. + +Many of the Makoa men have their faces thickly tattooed in double, +raised lines of about half an inch in length. After the incisions are +made charcoal is rubbed in and the flesh pressed out, so that all the +cuts are raised above the level of the surface. It gives them rather a +hideous look, and a good deal of that fierceness which our kings and +chiefs of old put on whilst having their portraits taken. + +_4th May, 1866._--The stream, embowered in perpetual shade and +overspread with the roots of water-loving, broad-leaved trees, we +found to be called Nkonya. The spot of our encampment was an island +formed by a branch of it parting and re-entering it again: the owner +had used it for rice. + +The buffaloes were bitten again by tsetse on 2nd, and also to-day, +from the bites of other flies (which look much more formidable than +tsetse), blood of arterial colour flows down; this symptom I never saw +before, but when we slaughtered an ox which had been tsetse bitten, we +observed that the blood had the arterial hue. The cow has inflammation +of one eye, and a swelling on the right lumbar portion of the pelvis: +the grey buffalo has been sick, but this I attribute to unmerciful +loading; for his back is hurt: the camels do not seem to feel the fly, +though they get weaker from the horrid running sores upon them and +hard work. There are no symptoms of tsetse in mules or donkeys, but +one mule has had his shoulder sprained, and he cannot stoop to eat or +drink. + +We saw the last of the flanking range on the north. The country in +front is plain, with a few detached granitic peaks shot up. The Makoa +in large numbers live at the end of the range in a place called +Nyuchi. At Nyamba, a village where we spent the night of the 5th, was +a doctoress and rain-maker, who presented a large basket of soroko, +or, as they call it in India, "mung," and a fowl. She is tall and well +made, with fine limbs and feet, and was profusely tattooed all over; +even her hips and buttocks had their elaborate markings: no shame is +felt in exposing these parts. + +A good deal of salt is made by lixiviation of the soil and evaporating +by fire. The head woman had a tame khanga tolé or tufted guinea-fowl, +with bluish instead of white spots. + +In passing along westwards after leaving the end of the range, we came +first of all on sandstone hardened by fire; then masses of granite, as +if in that had been contained the igneous agency of partial +metamorphosis; it had also lifted up the sandstone, so as to cause a +dip to the east. Then the syenite or granite seemed as if it had been +melted, for it was all in striae, which striae, as they do elsewhere, +run east and west. With the change in geological structure we get a +different vegetation. Instead of the laurel-leaved trees of various +kinds, we have African ebonies, acacias, and mimosae: the grass is +shorter and more sparse, and we can move along without wood-cutting. +We were now opposite a hill on the south called Simba, a lion, from +its supposed resemblance to that animal. A large Mabiha population +live there, and make raids occasionally over to this side for slaves. + +_6th May, 1866._--Tsetse again. The animals look drowsy. The cow's eye +is dimmed; when punctured, the skin emits a stream of scarlet blood. +The people hereabouts seem intelligent and respectful. At service a +man began to talk, but when I said, "Ku soma Mlungu,"--"we wish to +pray to God," he desisted. It would be interesting to know what the +ideas of these men are, and to ascertain what they have gained in +their communings with nature during the ages past. They do not give +the idea of that boisterous wickedness and disregard of life which we +read of in our own dark ages, but I have no one to translate, although +I can understand much of what is said on common topics chiefly from +knowing other dialects. + +_7th May, 1866._--A camel died during the night, and the grey buffalo +is in convulsions this morning. The cruelty of these sepoys vitiates +my experiment, and I quite expect many camels, one buffalo, and one +mule to die yet; they sit down and smoke and eat, leaving the animals +loaded in the sun. If I am not with them, it is a constant dawdling; +they are evidently unwilling to exert themselves, they cannot carry +their belts and bags, and their powers of eating and vomiting are +astounding. The Makondé villages are remarkably clean, but no sooner +do we pass a night in one than the fellows make it filthy. The climate +does give a sharp appetite, but these sepoys indulge it till relieved +by vomiting and purging. First of all they breakfast, then an hour +afterwards they are sitting eating the pocketfuls of corn maize they +have stolen and brought for the purpose, whilst I have to go ahead, +otherwise we may be misled into a zigzag course to see Ali's friends; +and if I remain behind to keep the sepoys on the move, it deprives me +of all the pleasure of travelling. We have not averaged four miles a +day in a straight line, yet the animals have often been kept in the +sun for eight hours at a stretch. When we get up at 4 A.M. we cannot +get under weigh before 8 o'clock. Sepoys are a mistake. + +_7th May, 1866._--We are now opposite a mountain called Nabungala, +which resembles from the north-east an elephant lying down. Another +camel, a very good one, died on the way: its shiverings and +convulsions are not at all like what we observed in horses and oxen +killed by tsetse, but such may lie the cause, however. The only +symptom pointing to the tsetse is the arterial-looking blood, but we +never saw it ooze from the skin after the bite of the gad-fly as we do +now. + +_8th May, 1866._--We arrived at a village called Jpondé, or Lipondé, +which lies opposite a granitic hill on the other-side of the river +(where we spent a night on our boat trip), called Nakapuri; this is +rather odd, for the words are not Makondé but Sichuana, and signify +goat's horn, from the projections jutting out from the rest of the +mass. I left the havildar, sepoys, and Nassick boys here in order to +make a forced march forward, where no food is to be had, and send +either to the south or westwards for supplies, so that after they have +rested the animals and themselves five days they may come. One mule is +very ill; one buffalo drowsy and exhausted; one camel a mere skeleton +from bad sores; and another has an enormous hole at the point of the +pelvis, which sticks out at the side. I suspect that this was made +maliciously, for he came from the field bleeding profusely; no tree +would have perforated a round hole in this way. I take all the goods +and leave only the sepoys' luggage, which is enough for all the +animals now. + +_9th May, 1866._--I went on with the Johanna men and twenty-four +carriers, for it was a pleasure to get away from the sepoys and +Nassick boys; the two combined to overload the animals. I told them +repeatedly that they would kill them, but no sooner had I adjusted the +burdens and turned my back than they put on all their things. It was +however such continual vexation to contend with the sneaking spirit, +that I gave up annoying myself by seeing matters, though I felt +certain that the animals would all be killed. We did at least eight +miles pleasantly well, and slept at Moedaa village. The rocks are +still syenite. We passed a valley with the large thorny acacias of +which canoes are often made, and a euphorbiaceous tree, with +seed-vessels as large as mandarin oranges, with three seeds inside. We +were now in a country which, in addition to the Mazitu invasion, was +suffering from one of those inexplicable droughts to which limited and +sometimes large portions of this country are subject. It had not been +nearly so severe on the opposite or south side, and thither too the +Mazitu had not penetrated. Rushes, which plagued us nearer the coast, +are not observed now; the grass is all crisp and yellow; many of the +plants are dead, and leaves are fallen off the trees as if winter had +begun. The ground is covered with open forest, with here and there +thick jungle on the banks of the streams. All the rivulets we have +passed are mere mountain torrents filled with sand, in which the +people dig for water. + +We passed the spot where an Arab called Birkal was asked payment for +leave to pass. After two and a half days' parley he fought, killed two +Makondé, and mortally wounded a headman, which settled the matter; no +fresh demand has been made. Ali's brother also resisted the same sort +of demand, fought several times, or until three Makondé and two of his +people were killed; they then made peace, and no other exactions have +been made. + +_11th May, 1866._--We now found a difficulty in getting our carriers +along, on account of exhaustion from want of food. In going up a sand +stream called Nyédé, we saw that all moist spots had been planted with +maize and beans, so the loss caused by the Mazitu, who swept the land +like a cloud of locusts, will not be attended by much actual +starvation. We met a runaway woman: she was seized by Ali, and it was +plain that he expected a reward for his pains. He thought she was a +slave, but a quarter of a mile off was the village she had left, and +it being doubtful if she were a runaway at all, the would-be fugitive +slave-capture turned out a failure. + +_12th May, 1866._--About 4' E.N.E. of Matawatawa, or Nyamatololé, our +former turning point. + +_13th May, 1866._--We halted at a village at Matawatawa. A +pleasant-looking lady, with her face profusely tattooed, came forward +with a bunch of sweet reed, or _Sorghum saceliaratum_, and laid it at +my feet, saying, "I met you here before," pointing to the spot on the +river where we turned. I remember her coming then, and that I asked +the boat to wait while she went to bring us a basket of food, and I +think it was given to Chiko, and no return made. It is sheer +kindliness that prompts them sometimes, though occasionally people do +make presents with a view of getting a larger one in return: it is +pleasant to find that it is not always so. She had a quiet, dignified +manner, both in talking and walking, and I now gave her a small +looking-glass, and she went and brought me her only fowl and a basket +of cucumber-seeds, from which oil is made; from the amount of oily +matter they contain thov are nutritious when roasted and eaten as +nuts. She made an apology, saying they were hungry times at present. I +gave her a cloth, and so parted with Kanańgoné, or, as her name may be +spelled, Kanańoné. The carriers were very useless from hunger, and we +could not buy anything for them; for the country is all dried up, and +covered sparsely with mimosas and thorny acacias. + +_14th May, 1866._--I could not get the carriers on more than an hour +and three-quarters: men tire very soon on empty stomachs. We had +reached the village of Hassané, opposite to a conical hill named +Chisulwé, which is on the south side of the river, and evidently of +igneous origin. It is tree-covered, while the granite always shows +lumps of naked rock. All about lie great patches of beautiful +dolomite. It may have been formed by baking of the tufa, which in this +country seems always to have been poured out with water after volcanic +action. Hassané's daughter was just lifting a pot of French beans, +boiled in their pods, off the fire when we entered the village, these +he presented to me, and when I invited him to partake, he replied that +he was at home and would get something, while I was a stranger on a +journey. He, like all the other headmen, is a reputed doctor, and his +wife, a stout old lady, a doctoress; he had never married any wife but +this one, and he had four children, all of whom lived with their +parents. We employed one of his sons to go to the south side and +purchase food, sending at the same time some carriers to buy for +themselves. The siroko and rice bought by Hassané's son we deposited +with him for the party behind, when they should arrive. The amount of +terror the Mazitu inspire cannot be realized by us. They shake their +shields and the people fly like stricken deer. I observed that a child +would not go a few yards for necessary purposes unless grandmother +stood in sight. Matumora, as the Arabs call the chief at Ngomano, gave +them a warm reception, and killed several of them: this probably +induced them to retire. + +_15th and 16th May, 1866._--Miserably short marches from hunger, and I +sympathise with the poor fellows. Those sent to buy food for +themselves on the south bank were misled by a talkative fellow named +Chikungu, and went off north, where we knew nothing could be had. His +object was to get paid for three days, while they only loitered here. +I suppose hunger has taken the spirit out of them; but I told them +that a day in which no work was done did not count: they admitted +this. We pay about two feet of calico per day, and a fathom or six +feet for three days' carriage. + +_17th May, 1866._--With very empty stomachs they came on a few miles +and proposed to cross to the south side; as this involved crossing the +Luendi too, I at first objected, but in hopes that we might get food +for them we consented, and were taken over in two very small canoes. I +sent Ali and Musa meanwhile to the south to try and get some food. I +got a little green sorghum for them and paid them off. These are the +little troubles of travelling, and scarce worth mentioning. A granitic +peak now appears about 15' off, to the W.S.W. It is called Chihoka. + +_18th May, 1866._--At our crossing place metamorphic rocks of a +chocolate colour stood on edge; and in the country round we have +patches of dolomite, sometimes as white as marble. The country is all +dry: grass and leaves crisp and yellow. Though so arid now, yet the +great abundance of the dried stalks of a water-loving plant, a sort of +herbaceous acacia, with green pea-shaped flowers, proves that at other +times it is damp enough. The marks of people's feet floundering in +slush, but now baked, show that the country can be sloppy. + +The headman of the village where we spent the night of 17th is a +martyr to rheumatism. He asked for medicine, and when I gave some he +asked me to give it to him out of my own hand. He presented me with a +basket of siroko and of green sorghum as a fee, of which I was very +glad, for my own party were suffering, and I had to share out the +little portion of flour I had reserved to myself. + +_19th May, 1866._--Coming on with what carriers we could find at the +crossing place, we reached the confluence without seeing it; and +Matumora being about two miles up the Loendi, we sent over to him for +aid. He came over this morning early,--a tall, well-made man, with a +somewhat severe expression of countenance, from a number of wrinkles +on his forehead. He took us over the Loendi, which is decidedly the +parent stream of the Rovuma, though that as it comes from the west +still retains the name Loendi from the south-west here, and is from +150 to 200 yards wide, while the Rovuma above Matawatawa is from 200 +to 250, full of islands, rocks, and sandbanks. The Loendi has the same +character. We can see the confluence from where we cross about 2' to +the north. Both rivers are rapid, shoal, and sandy; small canoes are +used on them, and the people pride themselves on their skilful +management: in this the women seem in no way inferior to the men. + +In looking up the Loendi we see a large granitic peak called Nkanjé, +some 20 miles off, and beyond it the dim outline of distant highlands, +in which seams of coal are exposed. Pieces of the mineral are found in +Loendi's sands. + +Matumora has a good character in the country, and many flee to him +from oppression. He was very polite; sitting on the right bank till +all the goods were carried over, then coming in the same canoe wifn me +himself, he opened a fish basket in a weir and gave me the contents, +and subsequently a little green sorghum. He literally has lost all his +corn, for he was obliged to flee with his people to Marumba, a rocky +island in Rovuma, about six miles above Matawatawa. He says that both +Loendi and Rovuma come out of Lake Nyassa; a boat could not ascend, +however, because many waterfalls are in their course: it is strange if +all this is a myth. Matumora asked if the people through whose country +I had come would preserve the peace I wished. He says he has been +assailed on all sides by slave-hunters: he alone has never hunted for +captives: if the people in front should attack me he would come and +fight them: finally he had never seen a European before (Dr. Roscher +travelled as an Arab), nor could I learn where Likumbu at Ngomano +lives; it was with him that Roscher is said to have left his goods. + +The Mazitu had women, children, oxen and goats with them. The whole +tribe lives on plundering the other natives by means of the terror +their shields inspire; had they gone further down the Rovuma, no ox +would have survived the tsetse. + +_20th May, 1866._--I paid Ali to his entire satisfaction, and +entrusted him with a despatch, "No. 2 Geographical," and then sent off +four men south to buy food. Here we are among Matambwé. Two of +Matumora's men act as guides. We are about 2' south and by west of the +confluence Ngomano. Lat. 11° 26' 23" S.; long. 37° 40' 52" E. + +Abraham, one of the Nassick boys, came up and said he had been sent by +the sepoys, who declared they would come no further. It was with the +utmost difficulty they had come so far, or that the havildar had +forced them on, they would not obey him--would not get up in the +mornings to march; lay in the paths, and gave their pouches and +muskets to the natives to carry: they make themselves utterly useless. +The black buffalo is dead; one camel ditto, and one mule left behind +ill. Were I not aware of the existence of the tsetse, I should say +they died from sheer bad treatment and hard work. + +I sent a note to be read to the sepoys stating that I had seen their +disobedience, unwillingness, and skulking, and as soon as I received +the havildar's formal evidence, I would send them back. I regretted +parting with the havildar only. + +A leopard came a little after dark while the moon was shining, and +took away a little dog from among us; it is said to have taken off a +person a few days ago. + +_22nd May, 1866._--The men returned with but little food in return for +much cloth. Matumora is very friendly, but he has nothing to give save +a little green sorghum, and that he brings daily. + +A south wind blows strongly every afternoon. The rains ceased about +the middle of May, and the temperature is lowered. A few heavy night +showers closed the rainy season. + +_23rd--24th May, 1866._--I took some Lunar observations. + +_25th May, 1866._--Matumora is not Ndondé. A chief to the south-west +of this owns that name and belongs to the Matumbwé tribe. + +_26th May, 1866._--I sent Musa westwards to buy food, and he returned +on the evening of 27th without success; he found an Arab slave-dealer +waiting in the path, who had bought up all the provisions. About 11 +P.M. we saw two men pass our door with two women in a chain; one man +carried fire in front, the one behind, a musket. Matumora admits that +his people sell each other. + +_27th May, 1866._--The havildar and Abraham came up. Havildar says +that all I said in my note was true, and when it was read to the +sepoys they bewailed their folly, he adds that if they were all sent +away disgraced, no one would be to blame but themselves. He brought +them to Hassané's, but they were useless, though they begged to be +kept on: I may give them another trial, but at present they are a sad +incumbrance. South-west of this the Manganja begin; but if one went by +them, there is a space beyond in the south-west without people. + +The country due west of this is described by all to be so mountainous +and beset by Mazitu, that there is no possibility of passing that way. +I must therefore make my way to the middle of the Lake, cross over, +and then take up my line of 1863. + +_2nd June, 1866._--The men sent to the Matambwé south-east of this +returned with a good supply of grain. The sepoys won't come; they say +they cannot,--a mere excuse, v because they tried to prevail on the +Nassick boys to go slowly like them, and wear my patience out. They +killed one camel with the butt ends of their muskets, beating it till +it died. I thought of going down disarming them all, and taking five +or six of the willing ones, but it is more trouble than profit, so I +propose to start westwards on Monday the 4th, or Tuesday the 5th. My +sepoys offered Ali eight rupees to take them to the coast, thus it +has been a regularly organized conspiracy. + +From the appearance of the cow-buffalo, I fear the tsetse is its chief +enemy, but there is a place like a bayonet wound on its shoulder, and +many of the wounds or bruises on the camels were so probed that I +suspect the sepoys. + +Many things African are possessed of as great vitality in their line +as the African people. The white ant was imported accidentally into +St. Helena from the coast of Guinea, and has committed such ravages in +the town of St. James, that numerous people have been ruined, and the +governor calls out for aid against them. In other so-called new +countries a wave of English weeds follows the tide of English +emigration, and so with insects; the European house-fly chases away +the blue-bottle fly in New Zealand. Settlers have carried the +house-fly in bottles and boxes for their new locations, but what +European insect will follow us and extirpate the tsetse? The Arabs +have given the Makondé bugs, but we have the house-fly wherever we go, +the blue-bottle and another like the house-fly, but with a sharp +proboscis; and several enormous gad-flies. Here there is so much room +for everything. In New Zealand the Norwegian rat is driven off by even +the European mouse; not to mention the Hanoverian rat of Waterton, +which is lord of the land. The Maori say that "as the white man's rat +has driven away the native rat, so the European fly drives away our +own; and as the clover kills our fern, so will the Maori disappear +before the white man himself." The hog placed ashore by Captain Cook +has now overrun one side of the island, and is such a nuisance that a +large farmer of 100,000 acres has given sixpence per head for the +destruction of some 20,000, and without any sensible diminution; this +would be no benefit here, for the wild hogs abound and do much damage, +besides affording food for the tsetse: the brutes follow the ewes with +young, and devour the poor lambs as soon as they make their +appearance. + +_3rd June, 1866._--The cow-buffalo fell down foaming at the mouth, and +expired. The meat looks fat and nice, and is relished by the people, a +little glariness seemed to be present on the foreleg, and I sometimes +think that, notwithstanding the dissimilarity of the symptoms observed +in the camels and buffaloes now, and those we saw in oxen and horses, +the evil may be the tsetse, after all, but they have been badly used, +without a doubt. The calf has a cut half an inch deep, the camels have +had large ulcers, and at last a peculiar smell, which portends death. +I feel perplexed, and not at all certain as to the real causes of +death. + +I asked Matumora if the Matambwé believed in God, he replied, that he +did not know Him, and I was not to ask the people among whom I was +going if they prayed to Him, because they would imagine that I wished +them to be killed. I told him that we loved to speak about Him, &c. He +said, when they prayed they offered a little meal and then prayed, but +did not know much about Him. + +They have all great reverence for the Deity, and the deliberate way in +which they say "We don't know Him" is to prevent speaking +irreverently, as that may injure the country. The name is "Mulungu": +Makochera afterwards said, that "He was not good, because He killed so +many people." + +_4th June, 1866._--Left Ngomano. I was obliged to tell the Nassick +boys that they must either work or return, it was absurd to have them +eating up our goods, and not even carrying their own things, and I +would submit to it no more: five of them carry bales, and two the +luggage of the rest. Abraham and Richard are behind. I gave them bales +to carry, and promised them ten rupees per month, to begin on this +date. Abraham has worked hard all along, and his pay may be due from +7th April, the day we started from Kindany. + +_5th June, 1866._--We slept at a village called Lamba, on the banks of +the Rovuma, near a brawling torrent of 150 yards, or 200 perhaps, with +many islands and rocks in it. The country is covered with open forest, +with patches of cultivation everywhere, but all dried up at present +and withered, partly from drought and partly from the cold of winter. +We passed a village with good ripe sorghum cut down, and the heads or +ears all laid neatly in a row, this is to get it dried in the sun, and +not shaken out by the wind, by waving to and fro; besides it is also +more easily watched from being plundered by birds. The sorghum +occasionally does not yield seed, and is then the _Sorghum +saccharatum_, for the stalk contains abundance of sugar, and is much +relished by the natives. Now that so much has failed to yield seed, +being indeed just in flower, the stalks are chewed as if sugar-cane, +and the people are fat thereon; but the hungry time is in store when +these stalles are all done. They make the best provision in their +power against famine by planting beans and maize in moist spots. The +common native pumpkin forms a bastard sort in the same way, but that +is considered very inferior. + +_6th June, 1866._--Great hills of granite are occasionally in sight +towards the north, but the trees, though scraggy, close in the view. +We left a village, called Mekosi, and goon came to a slaving party by +a sand stream. They said that they had bought two slaves, but they had +run away from them, and asked us to remain with them; more civil than +inviting. We came on to Makochera, the principal headman in this +quarter, and found him a merry laughing mortal, without any good looks +to recommend his genial smile,--low forehead, covered with deep +wrinkles; flat nose, somewhat of the Assyrian shape; a big mouth and +lean body. He complained of the Machinga (a Waiyau tribe north of him +and the Rovuma) stealing his people. Lat. of village, 11° 22' 49" S. +The river being about 2' north, still shows that it makes a trend to +the north after we pass Ngomano. Makochera has been an elephant +hunter. Few acknowledge as a reason for slaving that sowing and +spinning cotton for clothing is painful. I waited some days for the +Nassick boys, who are behind, though we could not buy any food except +at enormous prices and long distances off. + +_7th June, 1866._--The havildar and two sepoys came up with Abraham, +but Richard, a Nassick boy, is still behind from weakness. I sent +three off to help him with the only cordials we could muster. The +sepoys sometimes profess inability to come on, but it is unwillingness +to encounter hardship: I must move on whether they come or not, for we +cannot obtain food here. I sent the sepoys some cloth, and on the 8th +proposed to start, but every particle of food had been devoured the +night before, so we despatched two parties to scour the country round, +and give any price rather than want. + +I could not prevail on Makochera to give me a specimen of poetry; he +was afraid, neither he nor his forefathers had ever seen an +Englishman. He thought that God was not good because He killed so many +people. Dr. Roscher must have travelled as an Arab if he came this +way, for he was not known.[10] + +_9th June, 1866._--We now left and marched through the same sort of +forest, gradually ascending in altitude as we went west, then we came +to huge masses of granite, or syenite, with flakes peeling off. They +are covered with a plant with grassy-looking leaves and rough stalk +which strips into portions similar to what are put round candles as +ornaments. It makes these hills look light grey, with patches of +black rock at the more perpendicular parts; the same at about ten +miles off look dark blue. The ground is often hard and stony, but all +covered over with grass and plants: looking down at it, the grass is +in tufts, and like that on the Kalahari desert. Trees show uplands. +One tree of which bark cloth is made, pterocarpus, is abundant. +Timber-trees appear here and there, but for the most part the growth +is stunted, and few are higher than thirty feet. We spent the night by +a hill of the usual rounded form, called Njeńgo. The Rovuma comes +close by, but leaves us again to wind among similar great masses. Lat. +11° 20' 05" S. + +_10th June, 1866._--A very heavy march through the same kind of +country, no human habitation appearing; we passed a dead +body--recently, it was said, starved to death. The large tract between +Makochera's and our next station at Ngozo hill is without any +perennial stream; water is found often by digging in the sand streams +which we several times crossed; sometimes it was a trickling rill, but +I suspect that at other seasons all is dry, and people are made +dependent on the Rovuma alone. The first evidence of our being near +the pleasant haunts of man was a nice little woman drawing water at a +well. I had become separated from the rest: on giving me water she +knelt down, and, as country manners require, held it up to me with +_both_ hands. I had been misled by one of the carriers, who got +confused, though the rounded mass of Ngozo was plainly visible from +the heights we crossed east of it. + +An Arab party bolted on hearing of our approach: they don't trust the +English, and this conduct increases our importance among the natives. +Lat. 11° 18' 10" S. + +_11th June, 1866._--Our carriers refuse to go further, because they +say that they fear being captured here on their return. + +_12th June, 1866._--I paid off the carriers, and wait for a set from +this. A respectable man, called Makoloya, or Impandé, visited me, and +wished to ask some questions as to where I was going, and how long I +should be away. He had heard from a man who came from Ibo, or Wibo, +about the Bible, a large book which was consulted. + +[Illustration: Tattoo of Matambwé.] + +_13th June, 1866._--Makoloya brought his wife and a little corn, and +says that his father told him that there is a God, but nothing more. +The marks on their foreheads and bodies are meant only to give beauty +in the dance, they seem a sort of heraldic ornament, for they can at +once tell by his tattoo to what tribe or portion of tribe a man +belongs. The tattoo or tembo of the Matambwé and Upper Makondé very +much resembles the drawings of the old Egyptians; wavy lines, such as +the ancients made to signify water, trees and gardens enclosed in +squares, seem to have been meant of old for the inhabitants who lived +on the Rovuma, and cultivated also, the son takes the tattoo of his +father, and thus it has been perpetuated, though the meaning now +appears lost. The Makoa have the half or nearly full moon, but it is, +they say, all for ornament. Some blue stuff is rubbed into the cuts (I +am told it is charcoal), and the ornament shows brightly in persons +of light complexion, who by the bye are common. The Makondé and +Matambwé file their front teeth to points; the Machinga, a Waiyan +tribe, leave two points on the sides of the front teeth, and knock out +one of the middle incisors above and below. + +[Illustration: Machinga and Waiyan Teeth.] + +_14th June, 1866._--I am now as much dependent on carriers as if I had +never bought a beast of burden--but this is poor stuff to fill a +journal with. We started off to Metaba to see if the chief there would +lend some men. The headman, Kitwanga, went a long way to convoy us; +then turned, saying he was going to get men for Musa next day. We +passed near the base of the rounded masses Ngozo and Mekanga, and +think, from a near inspection, that they are over 2000 feet above the +plain, possibly 3000 feet, and nearly bare, with only the peculiar +grassy plant on some parts which are not too perpendicular. The people +are said to have stores of grain on them, and on one the chief said +there is water; he knows of no stone buildings of the olden time in +the country. We passed many masses of ferruginous conglomerate, and I +noticed that most of the gneiss dips westwards. The striae seem as if +the rock had been partially molten: at times the strike is north and +south, at others east and west; when we come to what may have been its +surface, it is as if the striae had been stirred with a rod while +soft. + +We slept at a point of the Rovuma, above a cataract where a reach of +comparatively still water, from 150 to 200 yards wide, allows a school +of hippopotami to live: when the river becomes fordable in many +places, as it is said to do in August and September, they must find it +difficult to exist. + +_15th June, 1866._--Another three hours' march brought us from the +sleeping-place on the Rovuma to Metaba, the chief of which, Kinazombé, +is an elderly man, with a cunning and severe cast of countenance, and +a nose Assyrian in type; he has built a large reception house, in +which a number of half-caste Arabs have taken up their abode. A great +many of the people have guns, and it is astonishing to see the number +of slave-taming sticks abandoned along the road as the poor wretches +gave in, and professed to have lost all hope of escape. Many huts have +been built by the Arabs to screen themselves from the rain as they +travelled. At Kinazombé's the second crop of maize is ready, so the +hunger will not be very much felt. + +_16th June, 1866._--We heard very sombre accounts of the country in +front:--four or five days to Mtarika, and then ten days through jungle +to Mataka's town: little food at Mtarika's, but plenty with Mataka, +who is near the Lake. The Rovuma trends southerly after we leave +Ngozo, and Masusa on that river is pointed out as south-west from +Metaba, so at Ngozo the river may be said to have its furthest +northing. Masusa is reported to be five days, or at least fifty miles, +from Metaba. The route now becomes south-west. + +The cattle of Africa are like the Indian buffalo, only partially +tamed; they never give their milk without the presence of the calf or +its stuffed skin, the "fulchan." The women adjacent to Mozambique +partake a little of the wild animal's nature, for, like most members +of the inferior races of animals, they refuse all intercourse with +their husbands when enceinte and they continue this for about three +years afterwards, or until the child is weaned, which usually happens +about the third year. I was told, on most respectable authority, that +many fine young native men marry one wife and live happily with her +till this period; nothing will then induce her to continue to cohabit +with him, and, as the separation is to continue for three years, the +man is almost compelled to take up with another wife: this was +mentioned to me as one of the great evils of society. The same +absurdity prevails on the West Coast, and there it is said that the +men acquiesce from ideas of purity. + +It is curious that trade-rum should form so important an article of +import on the West Coast while it is almost unknown on the East Coast, +for the same people began the commerce in both instances. If we look +north of Cape Delgado, we might imagine that the religious convictions +of the Arabs had something to do with the matter, but the Portuguese +south of Cape Delgado have no scruples in the matter, and would sell +their grandfathers as well as the rum if they could make money by the +transaction, they have even erected distilleries to furnish a vile +spirit from the fruit of the cashew and other fruits and grain, but +the trade does not succeed. They give their slaves also rewards of +spirit, or "maata bicho" ("kill the creature," or "craving within"), +and you may meet a man who, having had much intercourse with +Portuguese, may beg spirits, but the trade does not pay. The natives +will drink it if furnished gratis. The indispensable "dash" of rum on +the West Coast in every political transaction with independent chiefs +is, however, quite unknown. The Moslems would certainly not abstain +from trading in spirits were the trade profitable. They often asked +for brandy from me in a sly way--as medicine; and when reminded that +their religion forbade it, would say, "Oh, but we can drink it in +secret." + +It is something in the nature of the people quite inexplicable, that +throughout the Makondé country hernia humoralis prevails to a +frightful extent; it is believed by the natives to be the result of +beer drinking, so they cannot be considered as abstemious. + +_18th June, 1866._--Finding that Musa did not come up with the goods I +left in his charge, and fearing that all was not right, we set off +with all our hands who could carry, after service yesterday morning, +and in six hours' hard tramp arrived here just in time, for a tribe of +Wanindi, or Manindi, who are either Ajawas (Waiyau),[11] or pretended +Mazitu, had tried to cross the Rovuma from the north bank. They came +as plunderers, and Musa having received no assistance was now ready to +defend the goods. A shot or two from the people of Kitwanga made the +Wanindi desert after they had entered the water. + +Six sepoys and Simon had come up this length; Reuben and Mabruki +reported Richard to be dead. This poor boy was left with the others at +Lipondé, and I never saw him again. I observed him associating too +much with the sepoys; and often felt inclined to reprove him, as their +conversation is usually very bad, but I could not of my own knowledge +say so. He came on with the others as far as Hassané or Pachassané: +there he was too weak to come further, and as the sepoys were +notoriously skulkers, I feared that poor Richard was led away by them, +for I knew that they had made many attempts to draw away the other +Nassick boys from their duty. When, however, Abraham came up and +reported Richard left behind by the sepoys, I became alarmed, and sent +off three boys with cordials to help him on: two days after Abraham +left he seems to have died, and I feel very sorry that I was not there +to do what I could. I am told now that he never consented to the sepoy +temptation: he said to Abraham that he wished he were dead, he was so +much troubled. The people where he died were not v$ry civil to Simon. + +The sepoys had now made themselves such an utter nuisance that I felt +that I must take the upper hand with them, so I called them up this +morning, and asked if they knew the punishment they had incurred by +disobeying orders, and attempting to tamper with the Nassick boys to +turn them back. I told them they not only remained in the way when +ordered to march, but offered eight rupees to Ali to lead them to the +coast, and that the excuse of sickness was nought, for they had eaten +heartily three meals a day while pretending illness. They had no +excuse to offer, so I disrated the naik or corporal, and sentenced the +others to carry loads; if they behave well, then they will get fatigue +pay for doing fatigue duty, if ill, nothing but their pay. Their limbs +are becoming contracted from sheer idleness; while all the other men +are well and getting stronger they alone are disreputably slovenly and +useless-looking. Their filthy habits are to be reformed, and if found +at their habit of sitting down and sleeping for hours on the march, or +without their muskets and pouches, they are to be flogged. I sent two +of them back to bring up two comrades, left behind yesterday. All who +have done work are comparatively strong. + +[We may venture a word in passing on the subject of native recruits, +enlisted for service in Africa, and who return thither after a long +absence. All the Nassick boys were native-born Africans, and yet we +see one of them succumb immediately. The truth is that natives; under +these circumstances, are just as liable to the effects of malaria on +landing as Europeans, although it is not often that fever assumes a +dangerous form in such cases. The natives of the interior have the +greatest dread of the illnesses which they say are sure to be in store +for them if they visit the coast.] + +_19th June, 1866._--I gave the sepoys light loads in order to inure +them to exercise and strengthen them, and they carried willingly so +long as the fright was on them, but when the fear of immediate +punishment wore off they began their skulking again. One, Perim, +reduced his load of about 20 lbs. of tea by throwing away the lead in +which it was rolled, and afterwards about 15 lbs. of the tea, thereby +diminishing our stock to 5 lbs. + +[Dr. Livingstone's short stay in England in 1864-5 was mainly taken up +with compiling an account of his travels on the Zambesi and Shiré: +during this time his mother expired in Scotland at a good old age. +When he went back to Africa he took with him, as part of his very +scanty travelling equipment, a number of letters which he received +from friends at different times in England, and he very often quoted +them when he had an opportunity of sending letters home. We come to an +entry at this time which shows that in these reminiscences he had not +thus preserved an unmixed pleasure. He says:--] + +I lighted on a telegram to-day:--"Your mother died at noon on the 18th +June." + +This was in 1865: it affected me not a little. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[9] Further on we found it called Nkonya. + +[10] It will be remembered that this German traveller was murdered +near Lake Nyassa. The native chiefs denounced his assassins, and sent +them to Zanzibar, where they were executed.--ED. + +[11] Further westward amongst the Manganja or Nyassa people the Waiyan +tribe is called "Ajawa," and we find Livingstone always speaking of +them as Ajawas in his previous explorations on the River Rovuma. (See +'The Zambesi and its Tributaries.')--ED. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + Horrors of the slave-trader's track. System of cultivation. + Pottery. Special exorcising. Death of the last mule. Rescue of + Chirikaloma's wife. Brutalities of the slave-drivers. Mtarika's. + Desperate march to Mtaka's. Meets Arab caravans. Dismay of + slavers. Dismissal of sepoys. Mataka. The Waiyan metropolis. + Great hospitality and good feeling. Mataka restores stolen + cattle. Life with the chief. Beauty of country and healthiness + of climate. The Waiyan people and their peculiarities. Regrets + at the abandonment of Bishop Mackenzie's plans. + +_19th June, 1866._--We passed a woman tied by the neck to a tree and +dead, the people of the country explained that she had been unable to +keep up with the other slaves in a gang, and her master had determined +that she should not become the property of anyone else if she +recovered after resting for a time. I may mention here that we saw +others tied up in a similar manner, and one lying in the path shot or +stabbed[12], for she was in a pool of blood. The explanation we got +invariably was that the Arab who owned these victims was enraged at +losing his money by the slaves becoming unable to march, and vented +his spleen by murdering them; but I have nothing more than common +report in support of attributing this enormity to the Arabs. + +_20th June, 1866._--Having returned to Metaba, we were told by +Kinazombé, the chief, that no one had grain to sell but himself. He +had plenty of powder and common cloth from the Arabs, and our only +chance with him was parting with our finer cloths and other things +that took his fancy. He magnified the scarcity in front in order to +induce us to buy all we could from him, but he gave me an ample meal +of porridge and guinea-fowl before starting. + +_21st June, 1866._--We had difficulties about carriers, but on +reaching an island in the Rovuma, called Chimiki, we found the people +were Makoa and more civil and willing to work than the Waiyau: we sent +men back to bring up the havildar to a very civil headman called +Chirikaloma. + +_22nd June, 1866._--A poor little boy with prolapsus ani was carried +yesterday by his mother many a weary mile, lying over her right +shoulder--the only position he could find ease in,--an infant at the +breast occupied the left arm, and on her head were carried two +baskets. The mother's love was seen in binding up the part when we +halted, whilst the coarseness of low civilization was evinced in the +laugh with which some black brutes looked at the sufferer. + +_23rd June, 1866._--The country is covered with forest, much more open +than further east. We are now some 800 feet above the sea. The people +all cultivate maize near the Rovuma, and on islands where moisture +helps them, nearly all possess guns, and plenty of powder and fine +beads,--red ones strung on the hair, and fine blue ones in rolls on +the neck, fitted tightly like soldiers' stocks. The lip-ring is +universal; teeth filed to points. + +_24th June, 1866._--Immense quantities of wood are cut down, collected +in heaps, and burned to manure the land, but this does not prevent the +country having an appearance of forest. Divine service at 8.30 A.M.; +great numbers looking on. They have a clear idea of the Supreme Being, +but do not pray to Him.. Cold south winds prevail; temp. 55°. One of +the mules is very ill--it was left with the havildar when we went back +to Ngozo, and probably remained uncovered at night, for as soon as we +saw it, illness was plainly visible. Whenever an animal has been in +their power the sepoys have abused it. It is difficult to feel +charitably to fellows whose scheme seems to have been to detach the +Nassick boys from me first, then, when the animals were all killed, +the Johanna men, afterwards they could rule me as they liked, or go +back and leave me to perish; but I shall try to feel as charitably as +I can in spite of it all, for the mind has a strong tendency to brood +over the ills of travel. I told the havildar when I came up to him at +Metaba what I had done, and that I was very much displeased with the +sepoys for compassing my failure, if not death; an unkind word had +never passed my lips to them: to this he could bear testimony. He +thought that they would only be a plague and trouble to me, but he +"would go on and die with me." + +Stone boiling is unknown in these countries, but ovens are made in +anthills. Holes are dug in the ground for baking the heads of large +game, as the zebra, feet of elephants, humps of rhinoceros, and the +production of fire by drilling between the palms of the hands is +universal. It is quite common to see the sticks so used attached to +the clothing or bundles in travelling; they wet the blunt end of the +upright stick with the tongue, and dip it in the sand to make some +particles of silica adhere before inserting it in the horizontal +piece. The wood of a certain wild fig-tree is esteemed as yielding +fire readily. + +In wet weather they prefer to carry fire in the dried balls of +elephants' dung which are met with--the male's being about eight +inches in diameter and about a foot long: they also employ the stalk +of a certain plant which grows on rocky places for the same purpose. + +We bought a senzé, or _Aulacaudatus Swindernianus_, which had been +dried over a slow fire. This custom of drying fish, flesh, and fruits, +on stages over slow fires, is practised very generally: the use of +salt for preservation is unknown. Besides stages for drying, the +Makondé use them about six feet high for sleeping on instead of the +damp ground: a fire beneath helps to keep off the mosquitoes, and they +are used by day as convenient resting-places and for observation. + +Pottery seems to have been known to the Africans from the remotest +times, for fragments are found everywhere, even among the oldest +fossil bones in the country. Their pots for cooking, holding water and +beer, are made by the women, and the form is preserved by the eye +alone, for no sort of machine is ever used. A foundation or bottom is +first laid, and a piece of bone or bamboo used to scrape the clay or +to smooth over the pieces which are added to increase the roundness; +the vessel is then left a night: the next morning a piece is added to +the rim--as the air is dry several rounds may be added--and all is +then carefully smoothed off; afterwards it is thoroughly sun-dried. A +light fire of dried cow-dung, or corn-stalks, or straw, and grass with +twigs, is made in a hole in the ground for the final baking. Ornaments +are made on these pots of black lead, or before being hardened by the +sun they are ornamented for a couple or three inches near the rim, all +the tracery being in imitation of plaited basket work. + +Chirikaloma says that the surname of the Makoa, to whom he belongs, is +Mirazi--others have the surname Melola or Malola--Chimposola. All had +the half-moon mark when in the south-east, but now they leave it off a +good deal and adopt the Waiyau marks, because of living in their +country. They show no indications of being named after beasts and +birds. Mirazi was an ancestor; they eat all clean animals, but refuse +the hyaena, leopard, or any beast that devours dead men.[13] + +_25th June, 1866._--On leaving Chirikaloma we came on to Namalo, +whose village that morning had been deserted, the people moving off in +a body towards the Matambwé country, where food is more abundant. A +poor little girl was left in one of the huts from being too weak to +walk, probably an orphan. The Arab slave-traders flee from the path as +soon as they hear of our approach. The Rovuma is from 56 to 80 yards +wide here. No food to be had for either love or money. + +Near many of the villages we observe a wand bent and both ends +inserted into the ground: a lot of medicine, usually the bark of +trees, is buried beneath it. When sickness is in a village, the men +proceed to the spot, wash themselves with the medicine and water, +creep through beneath the bough, then bury the medicine and the evil +influence together. This is also used to keep off evil spirits, wild +beasts, and enemies. + +Chirikaloma told us of a child in his tribe which was deformed from +his birth. He had an abortive toe where his knee should have been; +some said to his mother, "Kill him;" but she replied, "How can I kill +my son?" He grew up and had many fine sons and daughters, but none +deformed like himself: this was told in connection with an answer to +my question about the treatment of Albinoes: he said they did not kill +them, but they never grew to manhood. On inquiring if he had ever +heard of cannibals, or people with tails, he replied, "Yes, but we +have always understood that these and other monstrosities are met with +only among you sea-going people." The other monstrosities he referred +to were those who are said to have eyes behind the head as well as in +front: I have heard of them before, but then I was near Angola, in the +west. + +The rains are expected here when the Pleiades appear in the east soon +after sunset; they go by the same name here as further south--Lemila +or the "hoeings." + +In the route along the Rovuma, we pass among people who are so well +supplied with white calico by the slave-trade from Kilwa, that it is +quite a drug in the market: we cannot get food for it. If we held on +westwards we should cross several rivers flowing into the Rovuma from +the southward, as the Zandulo, the Sanjenzé, the Lochiringo, and then, +in going round the north end of Nyassa, we should pass among the +Nindi, who now inhabit the parts vacated by the Mazitu, and imitate +them in having shields and in marauding. An Arab party went into their +country, and got out again only by paying a whole bale of calico; it +would not be wise in me to venture there at present, but if we return +this way we may; meanwhile we shall push on to Mataka, who is only a +few days off from the middle of the Lake, and has abundance of +provisions. + +_26th June, 1866._--My last mule died. In coming along in the morning +we were loudly accosted by a well-dressed woman who had just had a +very heavy slave-taming stick put on her neck; she called in such an +authoritative tone to us to witness the flagrant injustice of which +she was the victim that all the men stood still and went to hear the +case. She was a near relative of Chirikaloma, and was going up the +river to her husband, when the old man (at whose house she was now a +prisoner) caught her, took her servant away from her, and kept her in +the degraded state we saw. The withes with which she was bound were +green and sappy. The old man said in justification that she was +running away from Chirikaloma, and he would be offended with him if he +did not secure her. + +I asked the officious old gentleman in a friendly tone what he +expected to receive from Chirikaloma, and he said, "Nothing." Several +slaver-looking fellows came about, and I felt sure that the woman had +been seized in order to sell her to them, so I gave the captor a cloth +to pay to Chirikaloma if he were offended, and told him to say that +I, feeling ashamed to see one of his relatives in a slave-stick, had +released her, and would, take her on to her husband. + +She is evidently a lady among them, having many fine beads and some +strung on elephant's hair: she has a good deal of spirit too, for on +being liberated she went into the old man's house and took her basket +and calabash. A virago of a wife shut the door and tried to prevent +her, as well as to cut off the beads from her person, but she resisted +like a good one, and my men thrust the door open and let her out, but +minus her slave. The other wife--for old officious had two--joined her +sister in a furious tirade of abuse, the elder holding her sides in +regular fishwife fashion till I burst into a laugh, in which the +younger wife joined. I explained to the different headmen in front of +this village what I had done, and sent messages to Chirikaloma +explanatory of my friendly deed to his relative, so that no +misconstruction should be put on my act. + +We passed a slave woman shot or stabbed through the body and lying on +the path: a group of mon stood about a hundred yards off on one side, +and another of women on the other side, looking on; they said an Arab +who passed early that morning had done it in anger at losing the price +he had given for her, because she was unable to walk any longer. + +_27th June, 1866._--To-day we came upon a man dead from starvation, as +he was very thin. One of our men wandered and found a number of slaves +with slave-sticks on, abandoned by their master from want of food; +they were too weak to be able to speak or say where they had come +from; some were quite young. We crossed the Tulosi, a stream coming +from south, about twenty yards wide. + +At Chenjewala's the people are usually much startled when I explain +that the numbers of slaves we see dead on the road have been killed +partly by those who sold them, for I tell them that if they sell +their fellows, they are like the man who holds the victim while the +Arab performs the murder. + +Chenjewala blamed Machemba, a chief above him on the Rovuma, for +encouraging the slave-trade; I told him I had travelled so much among +them that I knew all the excuses they could make, each headman blamed +some one else. + +"It would be better if you kept your people and cultivated more +largely," said I, "Oh, Machemba sends his men and robs our gardens +after we have cultivated," was the reply. One man said that the Arabs +who come and tempt them with fine clothes are the cause of their +selling: this was childish, so I told them they would very soon have +none to sell: their country was becoming jungle, and all their people +who did not die in the road would be making gardens for Arabs at Kilwa +and elsewhere. + +_28th June, 1866._--When we got about an hour from Chenjewala's we +came to a party in the act of marauding; the owners of the gardens +made off for the other side of the river, and waved to us to go +against the people of Machemba, but we stood on a knoll with all our +goods on the ground, and waited to see how matters would turn out. Two +of the marauders came to us and said they had captured five people. I +suppose they took us for Arabs, as they addressed Musa. They then took +some green maize, and so did some of my people, believing that as all +was going, they who were really starving might as well have a share. + +I went on a little way with the two marauders, and by the footprints +thought the whole party might amount to four or five with guns; the +gardens and huts were all deserted. A poor woman was sitting, cooking +green maize, and one of the men ordered her to follow him. I said to +him, "Let her alone, she is dying." "Yes," said he, "of hunger," and +went'on without her. + +We passed village after village, and gardens all deserted! We were +now between two contending parties. We slept at one garden; and as we +were told by Chenjewala's people to take what we liked, and my men had +no food, we gleaned what congo beans, bean leaves, and sorghum stalks +we could,--poor fare enough, but all we could get. + +_29th June, 1866._--We came onto Machemba's brother, Chimseia, who +gave us food at once. The country is now covered with deeper soil, and +many large acacia-trees grow in the rich loam: the holms too are +large, and many islands afford convenient maize grounds. One of the +Nassiek lads came up and reported his bundle, containing 240 yards of +calico, had been stolen; he went aside, leaving it on the path +(probably fell asleep), and it was gone when he came back. I cannot +impress either on them or the sepoys that it is wrong to sleep on the +march. + +Akosakoné, whom we had liberated, now arrived at the residence of her +husband, who was another brother of Machemba. She behaved like a lady +all through, sleeping at a fire apart from the men. The ladies of the +different villages we passed condoled with her, and she related to +them the indignity that had been done to her. Besides this she did us +many services: she bought food for us, because, having a good address, +we saw that she could get double what any of our men could purchase +for the same cloth; she spoke up for us when any injustice was +attempted, and, when we were in want of carriers, volunteered to carry +a bag of beads on her head. On arriving at Machemba's brother, +Chimseia, she introduced me to him, and got him to be liberal to us in +food on account of the service we had rendered to her. She took leave +of us all with many expressions of thankfulness, and we were glad that +we had not mistaken her position or lavished kindness on the +undeserving. + +One Johanna man was caught stealing maize, then another, after I had +paid for the first. I sent a request to the chief not to make much of +a grievance about it, as I was very much ashamed at my men stealing; +he replied that he had liked me from the first, and I was not to fear, +as whatever service he could do he would most willingly in order to +save me pain and trouble. A sepoy now came up having given his musket +to a man to carry, who therefore demanded payment. As it had become a +regular nuisance for the sepoys to employ people to carry for them, +telling them that I would pay, I demanded why he had promised in my +name. "Oh, it was but a little way he carried the musket," said he. +Chimseia warned us next morning, 30th June, against allowing any one +to straggle or steal in front, for stabbing and plundering were the +rule. The same sepoy who had employed a man to carry his musket now +came forward, with his eyes fixed and shaking all over. This, I was to +understand, meant extreme weakness; but I had accidentally noticed him +walking quite smartly before this exhibition, so I ordered him to keep +close to the donkey that carried the havildar's luggage, and on no +account to remain behind the party. He told the havildar that he would +sit down only for a little while; and, I suppose, fell asleep, for he +came up to us in the evening as naked as a robin. + +I saw another person bound to a tree and dead--a sad sight to see, +whoever was the perpetrator. So many slave-sticks lie along our path, +that I suspect the people here-about make a practice of liberating +what slaves they cian find abandoned on the march, to sell them again. + +A large quantity of maize is cultivated at Chimsaka's, at whose place +we this day arrived. We got a supply, but being among thieves, we +thought it advisable to move on to the next place (Mtarika's). When +starting, we found that fork, kettle, pot, and shot-pouch had been +taken. The thieves, I observed, kept up a succession of jokes with +Chuma and Wikatani and when the latter was enjoying them, gaping to +the sky, they were busy putting the things of which he had charge +under their cloths! I spoke to the chief, and he got the three first +articles back for me. + +A great deal if not all the lawlessness of this quarter is the result +of the slave-trade, for the Arabs buy whoever is brought to them and +in a country covered with forest as this is, kidnapping can be +prosecuted with the greatest ease; elsewhere the people are honest, +and have a regard for justice. + +_1st July, 1866._--As we approach Mtarika's place, the country becomes +more mountainous and the land sloping for a mile down to the south +bank of the Rovuma supports a large population. Some were making new +gardens by cutting down trees and piling the branches for burning; +others had stored tip large quantities of grain and were moving it to +a new locality, but they were all so well supplied with calico +(Merikano) that they would not look at ours: the market was in fact +glutted by slavers from (Quiloa) Kilwa. On asking why people were seen +tied to trees to die as we had seen them, they gave the usual answer +that the Arabs tie them thus and leave them to perish, because they +are vexed, when the slaves can walk no further, that they have lost +their money by them. The path is almost strewed with slave-sticks, and +though the people denied it, I suspect that they make a practice of +following slave caravans and cutting off the sticks from those who +fall out in the march, and thus stealing them. By selling them again +they get the quantities of cloth we see. Some asked for gaudy prints, +of which we had none, because we knew that the general taste of the +Africans of the Interior is for strength rather than show in what they +buy. + +The Rovuma here is about 100 yards broad, and still keeps up its +character of a rapid stream, with sandy banks and islands: the latter +are generally occupied, as being defensible when the river is in +flood. + +_2nd July, 1866._--We rested at Mtarika's old place; and though we had +to pay dearly with our best table-cloths[14] for it, we got as much as +made one meal a day. At the same dear rate we could give occasionally +only two ears of maize to each man; and if the sepoys got their +comrades' corn into their hands, they eat it without shame. We had to +bear a vast amount of staring, for the people, who are Waiyau, have a +great deal of curiosity, and are occasionally rather rude. They have +all heard of our wish to stop the slave-trade, and are rather taken +aback when told that by selling they are part and part guilty of the +mortality of which we had been unwilling spectators. Some were +dumbfounded when shown that in the eye of their Maker they are parties +to the destruction of human life which accompanies this traffic both +by sea and land. If they did not sell, the Arabs would not come to +buy. Chuma and Wakatani render what is said very eloquently in Chiyau, +most of the people being of their tribe, with only a sprinkling of +slaves. Chimseia, Chimsaka, Mtarika, Mtendé, Makanjela, Mataka, and +all the chiefs and people in our route to the Lake, are Waiyau, or +Waiau.[15] + +On the southern slope down to the river there are many oozing springs +and damp spots where rice has been sown and reaped. The adjacent land +has yielded large crops of sorghum, congo-beans, and pumpkins. +Successive crowds of people came to gaze. My appearance and acts often +cause a burst of laughter; sudden standing up produces a flight of +women and children. To prevent peeping into the hut which I occupy, +and making the place quite dark, I do my writing in the verandah. +Chitané, the poodle dog, the buffalo-calf, and our only remaining +donkey are greeted with the same amount of curiosity and +laughter-exciting comment as myself. + +Every evening a series of loud musket reports is heard from the +different villages along the river; these are imitation evening guns. +All copy the Arabs in dress and chewing tobacco with "nora" lime, made +from burnt river shells instead of betel-nut and lime. The women are +stout, well-built persons, with thick arms and legs; their heads +incline to the bullet shape; the lip-rings are small; the tattoo a +mixture of Makoa and Waiyau. Fine blue and black beads are in fashion, +and so are arm-coils of thick brass wire. Very nicely inlaid combs are +worn in the hair; the inlaying is accomplished by means of a gum got +from the root of an orchis called _Nangazu_. + +_3rd July, 1866._--A short march brought us to Mtarika's new place. +The chief made his appearance only after he had ascertained all he +could about us. The population is immense; they are making new +gardens, and the land is laid out by straight lines about a foot +broad, cut with the hoe; one goes miles without getting beyond the +marked or surveyed fields. + +Mtarika came at last; a big ugly man, with large mouth and receding +forehead. He asked to see all our curiosities, as the watch, revolver, +breech-loading rifle, sextant. I gave him a lecture on the evil of +selling his people, and he wished me to tell all the other chiefs the +same thing. + +They dislike the idea of guilt being attached to them for having sold +many who have lost their lives on their way down to the sea-coast. We +had a long visit from Mtarika next day; he gave us meal, and meat of +wild hog, with a salad made of bean-leaves. A wretched Swaheli Arab, +ill with rheumatism, came for aid, and got a cloth. They all profess +to me to be buying ivory only. + +_5th July, 1866._--We left for Mtendé, who is the last chief before +we enter on a good eight days' march to Mataka's; we might have gone +to Kandulo's, who is near the Rovuma, and more to the north, but all +are so well supplied with everything by slave-traders that we have +difficulty in getting provisions at all. Mataka has plenty of all +kinds of food. On the way we passed the burnt bones of a person Avho +was accused of having eaten human flesh; he had been poisoned, or, as +they said, killed by poison (muave?), and then burned. His clothes +were hung, up on trees by the wayside as a warning to others. The +country was covered with scraggy forest, but so undulating that one +could often see all around from the crest of the waves. Great mountain +masses appear in the south and south-west. It feels cold, and the sky +is often overcast. + +_6th July, 1866._--I took lunars yesterday, after which Mtendé invited +us to eat at his house where he had provided a large mess of rice +porridge and bean-leaves as a relish. He says that many Arabs pass him +and many of them die in their journeys. He knows no deaf or dumb +person in the country. He says that he cuts the throats of all animals +to be eaten, and does not touch lion or hyaena. + +_7th July, 1866._--We got men from Mtendé to carry loads and show the +way. He asked a cloth to ensure his people going to the journey's end +and behaving properly; this is the only case of anything like tribute +being demanded in this journey: I gave him a cloth worth 5s. 6d. +Upland vegetation prevails; trees are dotted here and there among +bushes five feet high, and fine blue and yellow flowers are common. We +pass over a succession of ridges and valleys as in Londa; each valley +has a running stream or trickling rill; garden willows are in full +bloom, and also a species of sage with variegated leaves beneath the +flowers. + +When the sepoy Perim threw away the tea and the lead lining, I only +reproved him and promised him punishment if he committed any other +wilful offence, but now he and another skulked behind and gave their +loads to a stranger to carry, with a promise to him that I would pay. +We waited two hours for them; and as the havildar said that they would +not obey him, I gave Perim and the other some smart cuts with a cane, +but I felt that I was degrading myself, and resolved not to do the +punishment myself again. + +_8th July, 1866._--Hard travelling through a depopulated country. The +trees are about the size of hop-poles with abundance of tall grass; +the soil is sometimes a little sandy, at other times that reddish, +clayey sort which yields native grain so well. The rock seen uppermost +is often a ferruginous conglomerate, lying on granite rocks. The +gum-copal tree is here a mere bush, and no digging takes place for the +gum: it is called Mchenga, and yields gum when wounded, as also bark, +cloth, and cordage when stripped. Mountain masses are all around us; +we sleep at Linata mountain. + +_9th July, 1866._--The Masuko fruit abounds: the name is the same here +as in the Batoka country; there are also rhododendrons of two species, +but the flowers white. We slept in a wild spot, near Mount Leziro, +with many lions roaring about us; one hoarse fellow serenaded us a +long time, but did nothing more. Game is said to be abundant, but we +saw none, save an occasional diver springing away from the path. Some +streams ran to the north-west to the Lismyando, which flows N. for the +Rovuma; others to the south-east for the Loendi. + +_10th and 11th July, 1866._--Nothing to interest but the same weary +trudge: our food so scarce that we can only give a handful or half a +pound of grain to each person per day. The Masuko fruit is formed, but +not ripe till rains begin; very few birds are seen or heard, though +there is both food and water in the many grain-bearing grasses and +running streams, which we cross at the junction of every two ridges. +A dead body lay in a hut by the wayside; the poor thing had begun to +make a garden by the stream, probably in hopes of living long enough +(two months or so) on wild fruits to reap a crop of maize. + +_12th July, 1866._--A drizzling mist set in during the night and +continued this morning, we set off in the dark, however, leaving our +last food for the havildar and sepoys who had not yet come up. The +streams are now of good size. An Arab brandy bottle was lying broken +in one village called Msapa. We hurried on as fast as we could to the +Luatizé, our last stage before getting to Mataka's; this stream is +rapid, about forty yards wide, waist deep, with many podostemons on +the bottom. The country gets more and more undulating and is covered +with masses of green foliage, chiefly Masuko trees, which have large +hard leaves. There are hippopotami further down the river on its way +to the Loendi. A little rice which had been kept for me I divided, but +some did not taste food. + +_13th July, 1866._--A good many stragglers behind, but we push on to +get food and send it back to them. The soil all reddish clay, the +roads baked hard by the sun, and the feet of many of us are weary and +sore: a weary march and long, for it is perpetually up and down now. I +counted fifteen running streams in one day: they are at the bottom of +the valley which separates the ridges. We got to the brow of a ridge +about an hour from Mataka's first gardens, and all were so tired that +we remained to sleep; but we first invited volunteers to go on and buy +food, and bring it back early next morning: they had to be pressed to +do this duty. + +_14th July, 1866._--As our volunteers did not come at 8 A.M., I set +off to see the cause, and after an hour of perpetual up and down +march, as I descended the steep slope which overlooks the first +gardens, I saw my friends start up at the apparition--they were +comfortably cooking porridge for themselves! I sent men of Mataka +back with food to the stragglers behind and came on to his town. + +An Arab, Sef Rupia or Rubea, head of a large body of slaves, on his +way to the coast, most kindly came forward and presented an ox, bag of +flour, and some cooked meat, all of which were extremely welcome to +half-famished men, or indeed under any circumstances. He had heard of +our want of food and of a band of sepoys, and what could the English +think of doing but putting an end to the slave-trade? Had he seen our +wretched escort, all fear of them would have vanished! He had a large +safari or caravan under him. This body is usually divided into ten or +twelve portions, and all are bound to obey the leader to á certain +extent: in this case there were eleven parties, and the traders +numbered about sixty or seventy, who were dark coast Arabs. Each +underling had his men under him, and when I saw them they were busy +making the pens of branches in which their slaves and they sleep. Sef +came on with me to Mataka's, and introduced me in due form with +discharges of gunpowder. I asked him to come back next morning, and +presented three cloths with a request that he would assist the +havildar and sepoys, if he met them, with food: this he generously +did. + +We found Mataka's town situated in an elevated valley surrounded by +mountains; the houses numbered at least 1000, and there were many +villages around. The mountains were pleasantly green, and had many +trees which the people were incessantly cutting down. They had but +recently come here: they were besieged by Mazitu at their former +location west of this; after fighting four days they left unconquered, +having beaten the enemy off. + +Mataka kept us waiting some time in the verandah of his large square +house, and then made his appearance, smiling with his good-natured +face. He is about sixty years of age, dressed as an Arab, and if we +may judge from the laughter with which his remarks were always +greeted, somewhat humorous. He had never seen any but Arabs before. He +gave me a square house to live in, indeed the most of the houses here +are square, for the Arabs are imitated in everything: they have +introduced the English pea, and we were pleased to see large patches +of it in full bearing, and ripe in moist hollows which had been +selected for it. The numerous springs which come out at various parts +are all made use of. Those parts which are too wet are drained, whilst +beds are regularly irrigated by water-courses and ridges: we had +afterwards occasion to admire the very extensive draining which has +been effected among the hills. Cassava is cultivated on ridges along +all the streets in the town, which give it a somewhat regular and neat +appearance. Peas and tobacco were the chief products raised by +irrigation, but batatas and maize were often planted too: wheat would +succeed if introduced. The altitude is about 2700 feet above the sea: +the air at this time is cool, and many people have coughs. + +Mataka soon sent a good mess of porridge and cooked meat (beef); he +has plenty of cattle and sheep: and the next day he sent abundance of +milk. We stand a good deal of staring unmoved, though it is often +accompanied by remarks by no means complimentary; they think that they +are not understood, and probably I do misunderstand sometimes. The +Waiyau jumble their words as I think, and Mataka thought that I did +not enunciate anything, but kept my tongue still when I spoke. + +Town of Matak, Moembé. _15th July, 1866._--The safari under Sef set +off this morning for Kilwa. Sef says that about 100 of the Kilwa +people died this year, so slaving as well as philanthropy is +accompanied with loss of life: we saw about seven of their graves; the +rest died on the road up. + +There are two roads from this to the Lake, one to Loséwa, which is +west of this, and opposite Kotakota; the other, to Makatu, is further +south: the first is five days through deserted country chiefly; but +the other, seven, among people and plenty of provisions all the way. + +It struck me after Sef had numbered up the losses that the Kilwa +people sustained by death in their endeavours to Ťnslave people, +similar losses on the part of those who go to "proclaim liberty to the +captives, the opening of the prison to them that are bound,"--to save +and elevate, need not be made so very much of as they sometimes are. + +Soon after our arrival we heard that a number of Mataka's Waiyau had, +without his knowledge, gone to Nyassa, and in a foray carried off +cattle and people: when they came home with the spoil, Mataka ordered +all to be sent back whence they came. The chief came up to visit me +soon after, and I told him that his decision was the best piece of +news I had heard in the country: he was evidently pleased with my +approbation, and, turning to his people, asked if they heard what I +said. He repeated my remark, and said, "You silly fellows think me +wrong in returning the captives, but all wise men will approve of it," +and he then scolded them roundly. + +I was accidentally spectator of this party going back, for on going +out of the town I saw a meat market opened, and people buying with +maize and meal. On inquiring, I was told that the people and cattle +there were the Nyassas, and they had slaughtered an ox, in order to +exchange meat for grain as provisions on the journey. The women and +children numbered fifty-four, and about a dozen boys were engaged in +milking the cows: the cattle were from twenty-five to thirty head. + +The change from hard and scanty fare caused illness in several of our +party. I had tasted no animal food except what turtle-doves and +guinea-fowls could be shot since we passed Matawatawa,--true, a fowl +was given by Mtendé. The last march was remarkable for the scarcity of +birds, so eight days were spent on porridge and rice without relish. + +I gave Mataka a trinket, to be kept in remembrance of his having sent +back the Nyassa people: he replied that he would always act in a +similar manner. As it was a spontaneous act, it was all the more +valuable. + +The sepoys have become quite intolerable, and if I cannot get rid of +them we shall all starve before we accomplish what we wish. They +dawdle behind picking up wild fruits, and over our last march (which +we accomplished on the morning of the eighth day) they took from +fourteen to twenty-two days. Retaining their brutal feelings to the +last they killed the donkey which I lent to the havildar to carry his +things, by striking it on the head when in boggy places into which +they had senselessly driven it loaded; then the havildar came on (his +men pretending they could go no further from weakness), and killed the +young buffalo and eat it when they thought they could hatch up a +plausible story. They said it had died, and tigers came and devoured +it--they saw them. "Did you see the stripes of the tiger?" said I. All +declared that they saw the stripes distinctly. This gave us an idea of +their truthfulness, as there is no striped tiger in all Africa. All +who resolved on skulking or other bad behaviour invariably took up +with the sepoys; their talk seemed to suit evil-doers, and they were +such a disreputable-looking lot that I was quite ashamed of them. The +havildar had no authority, and all bore the sulky dogged look of +people going where they were forced but hated to go. This hang-dog +expression of countenance was so conspicuous that I many a time have +heard the country people remark, "These are the slaves of the party." +They have neither spirit nor pluck as compared with the Africans, and +if one saw a village he turned out of the way to beg in the most +abject manner, or lay down and slept, the only excuse afterwards +being, "My legs were sore." Having allowed some of them to sleep at +the fire in my house, they began a wholesale plunder of everything +they could sell, as cartridges, cloths, and meat, so I had to eject +them. One of them then threatened to shoot my interpreter Simon if he +got him in a quiet place away from the English power. As this threat +had been uttered three times, and I suspect that something of the kind +had prevented the havildar exerting his authority, I resolved to get +rid of them by sending them back to the coast by the first trader. It +is likely that some sympathizers will take their part, but I strove to +make them useful. They had but poor and scanty fare in a part of the +way, but all of us suffered alike. They made themselves thoroughly +disliked by their foul talk and abuse, and if anything tended more +than another to show me that theirs was a moral unfitness for travel, +it was the briskness assumed when they knew they were going back to +the coast. I felt inclined to force them on, but it would have been +acting from revenge, and to pay them out, so I forbore. I gave Mataka +forty-eight yards of calico, and to the sepoys eighteen yards, and +arranged that he should give them food till Suleiman, a respectable +trader, should arrive. He was expected every day, and we passed him +near the town. If they chose to go and get their luggage, it was of +course all safe for them behind. The havildar begged still to go on +with me, and I consented, though he is a drag on the party, but he +will count in any difficulty. + +Abraham recognised his uncle among the crowds who came to see us. On +making himself known he found that his mother and two sisters had been +sold to the Arabs after he had been enslaved. The uncle pressed him to +remain, and Mataka urged, and so did another uncle, but in vain. I +added my voice, and could have given him goods to keep him afloat a +good while, but he invariably replied, "How can I stop where I have no +mother and no sister?" The affection seems to go to the maternal side. +I suggested that he might come after he had married a wife, but I fear +very much that unless some European would settle, none of these +Nassick boys will come to this country. It would be decidedly better +if they were taught agriculture in the simplest form, as the Indian. +Mataka would have liked to put his oxen to use, but Abraham could not +help him with that. He is a smith, or rather a nothing, for unless he +could smelt iron he would be entirely without materials to work with. + +_14th-28th July, 1866._--One day, calling at Mataka's, I found as +usual a large crowd of idlers, who always respond with a laugh to +everything he utters as wit. He asked, if he went to Bombay what ought +he to take to secure some gold? I replied, "Ivory," he rejoined, +"Would slaves not be a good speculation?" I replied that, "if he took +slaves there for sale, they would put him in prison." The idea of the +great Mataka in "chokee" made him wince, and the laugh turned for once +against him. He said that as all the people from the coast crowd to +him, they ought to give him something handsome for being here to +supply their wants. I replied, if he would fill the fine well-watered +country we had passed over with people instead of sending them off to +Kilwa, he would confer a benefit on visitors, but we had been starved +on the way to him; and I then told him what the English would do in +road-making in a fine country like this. This led us to talk of +railways, ships, ploughing with oxen--the last idea struck him most. I +told him that I should have liked some of the Nassick boys to remain +and teach this and other things, but they might be afraid to venture +lest they should be sold again. The men who listened never heard such +decided protests against selling each other into slavery before! + +The idea of guilt probably floated but vaguely in their minds, but +the loss of life we have witnessed (in the guilt of which the sellers +as well as the buyers participate) comes home very forcibly to their +minds. + +Mataka has been an active hand in slave wars himself, though now he +wishes to settle down in quiet. The Waiyau generally are still the +most active agents the slave-traders have. The caravan leaders from +Kilwa arrive at a Waiyau village, show the goods they have brought, +are treated liberally by the elders, and told to wait and enjoy +themselves, slaves enough to purchase all will be procured: then a +foray is made against the Manganja, who have few or no guns. The +Waiyau who come against them are abundantly supplied with both by +their coast guests. Several of the low coast Arabs, who differ in +nothing from the Waiyau, usually accompany the foray, and do business +on their own account: this is the usual way in which a safari is +furnished with slaves. + +Makanjela, a Waiyau chief about a third of the way from Mtendé's to +Mataka, has lost the friendship of all his neighbours by kidnapping +and selling their people; if any of Mataka's people are found in the +district between Makanjela and Moembé, they are considered fair game +and sold. Makanjela's people cannot piss Mataka to go to the Manganja, +so they do what they can by kidnapping and plundering all who fall +into their hands. + +When I employed two of Mataka's people to go back on the 14th with +food to the havildar and sepoys, they went a little way and relieved +some, but would not venture as far as the Luatizé, for fear of losing +their liberty by Makanjela's people. I could not get the people of the +country to go back; nor could I ask the Nassick boys, who had been +threatened by the sepoys with assassination,--and it was the same with +the Johanna men, because, though Mahometans, the sepoys had called +them Caffirs, &c., and they all declared, "We are ready to do +anything for you, but we will do nothing for these Hindis." I sent +back a sepoy, giving him provisions; he sat down in the first village, +ate all the food, and returned. + +An immense tract of country lies uninhabited. To the north-east of +Moembé we have at least fifty miles of as fine land as can be seen +anywhere, still bearing all the marks of having once supported a +prodigious iron-smelting and grain-growing population. The clay pipes +which are put on the nozzles of their bellows and inserted into the +furnace are met with everywhere--often vitrified. Then the ridges on +which they planted maize, beans, cassava, and sorghum, and which they +find necessary to drain off the too abundant moisture of the rains, +still remain unlevelled to attest the industry of the former +inhabitants; the soil being clayey, resists for a long time the +influence of the weather. These ridges are very regular, for in +crossing the old fields, as the path often compels us to do, one foot +treads regularly on the ridge, and the other in the hollow, for a +considerable distance. Pieces of broken pots, with their rims +ornamented with very good imitations of basket-work, attest that the +lady potters of old followed the example given them by their still +more ancient mothers,--their designs are rude, but better than we can +make them without referring to the original. + +[Illustration: Imitation of basket-work in Pottery.] + +No want of water has here acted to drive the people away, as has been +the case further south. It is a perpetual succession of ridge and +valley, with a running stream or oozing bog, where ridge is separated +from ridge: the ridges become steeper and narrower as we approach +Mataka's. + +I counted fifteen running burns of from one to ten yards wide in one +day's march of about six hours; being in a hilly or rather mountainous +region, they flow rapidly and have plenty of water-power. In July any +mere torrent ceases to flow, but these were brawling burns with water +too cold (61°) for us to bathe in whose pores were all open by the +relaxing regions nearer the coast. The sound, so un-African, of +gushing water dashing over rocks was quite familiar to our ears. + +This district, which rises up west of Mataka's to 3400 feet above the +sea, catches a great deal of the moisture brought up by the easterly +winds. Many of the trees are covered with lichens. While here we had +cold southerly breezes, and a sky so overcast every day after 10 A.M., +that we could take no astronomical observations: even the latitude was +too poor to be much depended on. 12° 53' S. may have been a few miles +from this. + +The cattle, rather a small breed, black and white in patches, and +brown, with humps, give milk which is duly prized by these Waiyau. The +sheep are the large-tailed variety, and generally of a black colour. +Fowls and pigeons are the only other domestic animals we see, if we +except the wretched village dogs which our-poodle had immense delight +in chasing. + +The Waiyau are far from a handsome race, but they are not the +prognathous beings one sees on the West Coast either. Their heads are +of a round shape; compact foreheads, but not particularly receding; +the alae nasi are flattened out; lips full, and with the women a small +lip-ring just turns them up to give additional thickness. Their style +of beauty is exactly that which was in fashion when the stone deities +were made in the caves of Elephanta and Kenora near Bombay. Ŕ +favourite mode of dressing the hair into little knobs, which was in +fashion there, is more common in some tribes than in this. The mouths +of the women would not be so hideous with a small lip-ring if they did +not file their teeth to points, but they seem strong and able for the +work which falls to their lot. The men are large, strong-boned +fellows, and capable of enduring great fatigue, they undergo a rite +which once distinguished the Jews about the age of puberty, and take a +new name on the occasion; this was not introduced by the Arabs, whose +advent is a recent event, and they speak of the time before they were +inundated with European manufactures in exchange for slaves, as quite +within their memory. + +Young Mataka gave me a dish of peas, and usually brought something +every time he made a visit, he seems a nice boy, and his father, in +speaking of learning to read, said he and his companions could learn, +but he himself was too old. The soil seems very fertile, for the sweet +potatoes become very large, and we bought two loads of them for three +cubits and two needles; they quite exceeded 1 cwt. The maize becomes +very large too; one cob had 1600 seeds. The abundance of water, the +richness of soil, the available labour for building square houses, the +coolness of the climate, make this nearly as desirable a residence as +Magomero; but, alas! instead of three weeks' easy sail up the Zambesi +and Shiré, we have spent four weary months in getting here: I shall +never cease bitterly to lament the abandonment of the Magomero +mission. + +Moaning seems a favourite way of spending the time with some sick +folk. For the sake of the warmth, I allowed a Nassick boy to sleep in +my house; he and I had the same complaint, dysentery, and I was +certainly worse than he, but did not moan, while he played at it as +often as he was awake. I told him that people moaned only when too ill +to be sensible of what they were doing; the groaning ceased, though +he became worse. + +Three sepoys played at groaning very vigorously outside my door; they +had nothing the matter with them, except perhaps fatigue, which we all +felt alike; as these fellows prevented my sleeping, I told them quite +civilly that, if so ill that they required to groan, they had better +move off a little way, as I could not sleep; they preferred the +verandah, and at once forbore. + +The abundance of grain and other food is accompanied by great numbers +of rats or large mice, which play all manner of pranks by night; white +ants have always to be guarded against likewise. Anyone who would find +an antidote to drive them away would confer a blessing; the natural +check is the driver ant, which when it visits a house is a great pest +for a time, but it clears the others out. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[12] There is a double purpose in these murders; the terror inspired +in the minds of the survivors spurs them on to endure the hardships of +the march: the Portuese drivers are quite alive to the merits of this +stimulus.--ED. + +[13] A tribal distinction turns on the customs prevailing with respect +to animal food, _e.g._ one tribe will eat the elephant, the next looks +on such flesh as unclean, and so with other meat. The neighbouring +Manganja gladly eat the leopard and hyaena.--ED. + +[14] A coloured cloth manufactured expressly for barter in East +Africa. + +[15] This is pronounced "Y-yow."--ED. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + Geology and description of the Waiyau land. Leaves Mataka's. The + Nyumbo plant. Native iron-foundry. Blacksmiths. Makes for the + Lake Nyassa. Delight at seeing the Lake once more. The Manganja + or Nyassa tribe. Arab slave crossing. Unable to procure passage + across. The Kungu fly. Fear of the English amongst slavers. Lake + shore. Blue ink. Chitané changes colour. The Nsaka fish. + Makalaosé drinks beer. The Sanjika fish. London antiquities. + Lake rivers. Mukaté's. Lake Pamalombé. Mponda's. A slave gang. + Wikatani discovers his relatives and remains. + +_28th July, 1866._--We proposed to start to-day, but Mataka said that +he was not ready yet: the flour had to be ground, and he had given us +no meat. He had sent plenty of cooked food almost every day. He asked +if we would slaughter the ox he would give here, or take it on; we +preferred to kill it at once. He came on the 28th with a good lot of +flour for us, and men to guide us to Nyassa, telling us that this was +Moembé, and his district extended all the way to the Lake: he would +not send us to Loséwa, as that place had lately been plundered and +burned. + +In general the chiefs have shown an anxiety to promote our safety. The +country is a mass of mountains. On leaving Mataka's we ascended +considerably, and about the end of the first day's march, near +Magola's village, the barometer showed our greatest altitude, about +3400 feet above the sea. There were villages of these mountaineers +everywhere, for the most part of 100 houses or more each. The springs +were made the most use of that they knew; the damp spots drained, and +the water given a free channel for use in irrigation further down: +most of these springs showed the presence of iron by the oxide oozing +out. A great many patches of peas are seen in full bearing and flower. +The trees are small, except in the hollows: there is plenty of grass +and flowers near streams and on the heights. The mountain-tops may +rise 2000 or 3000 feet above their flanks, along which we wind, going +perpetually up and down the steep ridges of which the country is but a +succession. + +Looking at the geology of the district, the plateaux on each side of +the Rovuma are masses of grey sandstone, capped with masses of +ferruginous conglomerate; apparently an aqueous deposit. When we +ascend the Rovuma about sixty miles, a great many pieces and blocks of +silicified wood appear on the surface of the soil at the bottom of the +slope up the plateaux. This in Africa is a sure indication of the +presence of coal beneath, but it was not observed cropping out; the +plateaux are cut up in various directions by wadys well supplied with +grass and trees on deep and somewhat sandy soil: but at the confluence +of the Loendi highlands they appear in the far distance. In the sands +of the Loendi pieces of coal are quite common.[16] + +Before reaching the confluence of the Rovuma and Loendi, or say about +ninety miles from the sea, the plateau is succeeded by a more level +country, having detached granitic masses shooting up some 500 or 700 +feet. The sandstone of the plateau has at first been hardened, then +quite metamorphosed into a chocolate-coloured schist. As at Chilolé +hill, we have igneous rocks, apparently trap, capped with masses of +beautiful white dolomite. We still ascend in altitude as we go +westwards, and come upon long tracts of gneiss with hornblende. The +gneiss is often striated, all the striae looking one way--sometimes +north and south, and at other times east and west. These rocks look as +if a stratified rock had been nearly melted, and the strata fused +together by the heat. From these striated rocks have shot up great +rounded masses of granite or syenite, whose smooth sides and crowns +contain scarcely any trees, and are probably from 3000 to 4000 feet +above the sea. The elevated plains among these mountain masses show +great patches of ferruginous conglomerate, which, when broken, look +like yellow haematite with madrepore holes in it: this has made the +soil of a red colour. + +On the watershed we have still the rounded granitic hills jutting +above the plains (if such they may be called) which are all ups and +downs, and furrowed with innumerable running rills, the sources of the +Rovuma and Loendi. The highest rock observed with mica schist was at +an altitude of 3440 feet. The same uneven country prevails as we +proceed from the watershed about forty miles down to the Lake, and a +great deal of quartz in small fragments renders travelling-very +difficult. Near the Lake, and along its eastern shore, we have mica +schist and gneiss foliated, with a great deal of hornblende; but the +most remarkable feature of it is that the rocks are all tilted on +edge, or slightly inclined to the Lake. The active agent in effecting +this is not visible. It looks as if a sudden rent had been made, so as +to form the Lake, and tilt all these rocks nearly over. On the east +side of the lower part of the Lake we have two ranges of mountains, +evidently granitic: the nearer one covered with small trees and lower +than the other; the other jagged and bare, or of the granitic forms. +But in all this country no fossil-yielding rock was visible except the +grey sandstone referred to at the beginning of this note. The rocks +are chiefly the old crystalline forms. + +One fine straight tall tree in the hollows seemed a species of fig: +its fruit was just forming, but it was too high for me to ascertain +its species. The natives don't eat the fruit, but they eat the large +grubs which come out of it. The leaves were fifteen inches long by +five broad: they call it Unguengo. + +_29th July, 1866._--At Magola's village. Although we are now rid of +the sepoys, we cannot yet congratulate ourselves on being rid of the +lazy habits of lying down in the path which they introduced. A strong +scud comes up from the south bringing much moisture with it: it blows +so hard above, this may be a storm on the coast. Temperature in +mornings 55°. + +_30th July, 1866._--A short march brought us to Pezimba's village, +which consists of 200 houses and huts. It is placed very nicely on a +knoll between two burns, which, as usual, are made use of for +irrigating peas in winter time. The headman said that if we left now +we had a good piece of jungle before us, and would sleep twice in it +before reaching Mbanga. We therefore remained. An Arab party, hearing +of our approach, took a circuitous route among the mountains to avoid +coming in contact with us. In travelling to Pezimba's we had commenced +our western descent to the Lake, for we were now lower than Magola's +by 300 feet. We crossed many rivulets and the Lochesi, a good-sized +stream. The watershed parts some streams for Loendi and some for +Rovuma. There is now a decided scantiness of trees. Many of the +hill-tops are covered with grass or another plant; there is pleasure +now in seeing them bare. Ferns, rhododendrons, and a foliaged tree, +which looks in the distance like silver-fir, are met with. + +The Mandaré root is here called Nyumbo, when cooked it has a slight +degree of bitterness with it which cultivation may remove. Mica schist +crowned some of the heights on the watershed, then gneiss, and now, as +we descend further, we have igneous rocks of more recent eruption, +porphyry and gneiss, with hornblende. A good deal of ferruginous +conglomerate, with holes in it, covers many spots; when broken, it +looks like yellow haematite, with black linings to the holes: this is +probably the ore used in former times by the smiths, of whose +existence we now find still more evidence than further east. + +_31st July, 1866._--I had presented Pezimba with a cloth, so he cooked +for us handsomely last night, and this morning desired us to wait a +little as he had not yet sufficient meal made to present: we waited +and got a generous present. + +It was decidedly milder here than at Mataka's, and we had a clear sky. +In our morning's march we passed the last of the population, and went +on through a fine well-watered fruitful country, to sleep near a +mountain called Mtéwiré, by a stream called Msapo. A very large Arab +slave-party was close by our encampment, and I wished to speak to +them; but as soon as they knew of our being near they set off in a +pathless course across country, and were six days in the +wilderness.[17] + +_1st August, 1866._--We saw the encampment of another Arab party. It +consisted of ten pens, each of which, from the number of fires it +contained, may have held from eighty to a hundred slaves. The people +of the country magnified the numbers, saying that they would reach +from this to Mataka's; but from all I can learn, I think that from 300 +to 800 slaves is the commoner gang. This second party went across +country very early this morning. We saw the fire-sticks which the +slaves had borne with them. The fear they feel is altogether the +effect of the English name, for we have done nothing to cause their +alarm. + +_2nd August, 1866._--There was something very cheering to me in the +sight at our encampment of yellow grass and trees dotted over it, as +in the Bechuana country. The birds were singing merrily too, inspired +by the cold, which was 47°, and by the vicinity of some population. +Gum-copal trees and bushes grow here as well as all over the country; +but gum is never dug for, probably because the trees were never large +enough to yield the fossil gum. Marks of smiths are very abundant and +some furnaces are still standing. Much cultivation must formerly have +been where now all is jungle. + +We arrived at Mbanga, a village embowered in trees, chiefly of the +euphorbia, so common in the Manganja country further south. Kandulo, +the headman, had gone to drink beer at another village, but sent +orders to give a hut and to cook for us. We remained next day. Took +lunars. + +We had now passed through, at the narrowest part, the hundred miles of +depopulated country, of which about seventy are on the N.E. of Mataka. +The native accounts differ as to the cause. Some say slave wars, and +assert that the Makoa from the vicinity of Mozambique played an +important part in them; others say famine; others that the people have +moved to and beyond Nyassa.[18] Certain it is, from the potsherds +strewed over the country, and the still remaining ridges on which +beans, sorghum, maize, and cassava, were planted, that the departed +population was prodigious. The Waiyau, who are now in the country, +came from the other side of the Rovuma, and they probably supplanted +the Manganja, an operation which we see going on at the present day. + +_4th August, 1866._--An hour and a half brought us to Miulé, a village +on the same level with Mbanga; and the chief pressing us to stay, on +the plea of our sleeping two nights in the jungle, instead of one if +we left early next morning, we consented. I asked him what had become +of the very large iron-smelting population of this region; he said +many had died of famine, others had fled to the west of Nyassa: the +famine is the usual effect of slave wars, and much death is thereby +caused--probably much more than by the journey to the coast. He had +never heard any tradition of stone hatchets having been used, nor of +stone spear-heads or arrowheads of that material, nor had he heard of +any being turned up by the women in hoeing. The Makondé, as we saw, +use wooden spears where iron is scarce. I saw wooden hoes used for +tilling the soil in the Bechuana and Bataka countries, but never stone +ones. In 1841 I saw a Bushwoman in the Cape Colony with a round stone +and a hole through it; on being asked she showed me how it was used by +inserting the top of a digging-stick into it, and digging a root. The +stone was to give the stick weight. + +[Illustration.] + +The stones still used as anvils and sledge-hammers by many of the +African smiths, when considered from their point of view, show sounder +sense than if they were burdened with the great weights we use. They +are unacquainted with the process of case-hardening, which, applied to +certain parts of our anvils, gives them their usefulness, and an anvil +of their soft iron would not do so well as a hard stone. It is true a +small light one might be made, but let any one see how the hammers of +their iron bevel over and round in the faces with a little work, and +he will perceive that only a wild freak would induce any sensible +native smith to make a mass equal to a sledge-hammer, and burden +himself with a weight for what can be better performed by a stone. If +people are settled, as on the coast, then they gladly use any mass of +cast iron they may find, but never where, as in the interior, they +have no certainty of remaining any length of time in one spot. + +_5th August, 1866._--We left Miulé, and commenced our march towards +Lake Nyassa, and slept at the last of the streams that flow to the +Loendi. In Mataka's vicinity, N.E., there is a perfect brush of +streams flowing to that river: one forms a lake in its course, and the +sources of the Rovuma lie in the same region. After leaving Mataka's +we crossed a good-sized one flowing to Loendi, and, the day after +leaving Pezimba's, another going to the Chiringa or Lochiringa, which +is a tributary of the Rovuma. + +_6th August, 1866._--We passed two cairns this morning at the +beginning of the very sensible descent to the Lake. They are very +common in all this Southern Africa in the passes of the mountains, and +are meant to mark divisions of countries, perhaps burial-places, but +the Waiyau who accompanied us thought that they were merely heaps of +stone collected by some one making a garden. The cairns were placed +just about the spot where the blue waters of Nyassa first came fairly +into view. + +We now came upon a stream, the Misinjé, flowing into the Lake, and we +crossed it five times; it was about twenty yards wide, and thigh deep. +We made but short stages when we got on the lower plateau, for the +people had great abundance of food, and gave large presents of it if +we rested. One man gave four fowls, three large baskets of maize, +pumpkins, eland's fat--a fine male, as seen by his horns,--and pressed +us to stay, that he might see our curiosities as well as others. He +said that at one day's distance south of him all sorts of animals, as +buffaloes, elands, elephants, hippopotami, and antelopes, could be +shot. + +_8th August, 1866._--We came to the Lake at the confluence of the +Misinjé, and felt grateful to That Hand which had protected us thus +far on our journey. It was as if I had come back to an old home I +never expected again to see; and pleasant to bathe in the delicious +waters again, hear the roar of the sea, and dash in the rollers. Temp. +71° at 8 A.M., while the air was 65°. I feel quite exhilarated. + +The headman here, Mokalaosé, is a real Manganja, and he and all his +people exhibit the greater darkness of colour consequent on being in a +warm moist climate; he is very friendly, and presented millet, +porridge, cassava, and hippopotamus meat boiled and asked if I liked +milk, as he had some of Mataka's cattle here. His people bring sanjika +the best Lake fish, for sale; they are dried on stages over slow +fires, and lose their fine flavour by it, but they are much prized +inland. I bought fifty for a fathom of calico; when fresh, they taste +exactly like the best herrings, _i.e._ as we think, but voyagers' and +travellers' appetites are often so whetted as to be incapable of +giving a true verdict in matters of taste. + +[It is necessary to explain that Livingstone knew of an Arab +settlement on the western shore of the Lake, and that he hoped to +induce the chief man Jumbé to give him a passage to the other side.] + +_10th August, 1866._--I sent Seyed Majid's letter up to Jumbé, but the +messenger met some coast Arabs at the Loangwa, which may be seven +miles from this, and they came back with him, haggling a deal about +the fare, and then went off, saying that they would bring the dhow +here for us. Finding that they did not come, I sent Musa, who brought +back word that they had taken the dhow away over to Jumbé at Kotakota, +or, as they pronounce it, Ngotagota. Very few of the coast Arabs can +read; in words they are very polite, but truthfulness seems very +little regarded. I am resting myself and people--working up journal, +lunars, and altitudes--but will either move south or go to the Arabs +towards the north soon. + +Mokalaosé's fears of the Waiyau will make him welcome Jumbé here, and +then the Arab will some day have an opportunity of scattering his +people as he has done those at Kotakota. He has made Loséwa too hot +for himself. When the people there were carried off by Mataka's +people, Jumbé seized their stores of grain, and now has no post to +which he can go there. The Loangwa Arabs give an awful account of +Jumbé's murders and selling the people, but one cannot take it all in; +at the mildest it must have been bad. This is all they ever do; they +cannot form a state or independent kingdom: slavery and the +slave-trade are insuperable obstacles to any permanence inland; slaves +can escape so easily, all therefore that the Arabs do is to collect as +much money as they can by hook and by crook, and then leave the +country. + +We notice a bird called namtambwé, which sings very nicely with a +strong voice after dark here at the Misinjé confluence. + +_11th August, 1866._--Two headmen came down country from villages +where we slept, bringing us food, and asking how we are treated; they +advise our going south to Mukaté's, where the Lake is narrow. + +_12th-14th August, 1866._--Map making; but my energies were sorely +taxed by the lazy sepoys, and I was usually quite tired out at night. +Some men have come down from Mataka's, and report the arrival of an +Englishman with cattle for me, "he has two eyes behind as well as two +in front:" this is enough of news for awhile! + +Mokalaosé has his little afflictions, and he tells me of them. A wife +ran away, I asked how many he had; he told me twenty in all: I then +thought he had nineteen too many. He answered with the usual reason, +"But who would cook for strangers if I had but one?" + +We saw clouds of "kungu" gnats on the Lake; they are not eaten here. +An ungenerous traveller coming here with my statement in his hand, +and finding the people denying all knowledge of how to catch and cook +them, might say that I had been romancing in saying I had seen them +made into cakes in the northern part of the Lake; when asking here +about them, a stranger said, "They know how to use them in the north; +we do not." + +Mokalaosé thinks that the Arabs are afraid that I may take their dhows +from them and go up to the north. He and the other headmen think that +the best way will be to go to Mukaté's in the south. All the Arabs +flee from me, the English name being in their minds inseparably +connected with recapturing slavers: they cannot conceive that I have +any other object in view; they cannot read Seyed Majid's letter. + +_21st August, 1866._--Started for the Loangwa, on the east side of the +Lake; hilly all the way, about seven miles. This river may be twenty +yards wide near its confluence; the Misinjé is double that: each has +accumulated a promontory of deposit and enters the Lake near its apex. +We got a house from a Waiyau man on a bank about forty feet above the +level of Nyassa, but I could not sleep for the manoeuvres of a crowd +of the minute ants which infested it. They chirrup distinctly; they +would not allow the men to sleep either, though all were pretty tired +by the rough road up. + +_22nd August, 1866._--We removed to the south side of the Loangwa, +where there are none of these little pests. + +_23rd August, 1866._--Proposed to the Waiyau headman to send a canoe +over to call Jumbé, as I did not believe in the assertions of the +half-caste Arab here that he had sent for his. All the Waiyau had +helped me, and why not he? He was pleased with this, but advised +waiting till a man sent to Loséwa should return. + +_24th August, 1866._--A leopard took a dog out of a house next to +ours; he had bitten a man before, but not mortally. _29th August, +1866._--News come that the two dhows have come over to Loséwa +(Loséfa). The Mazitu had chased Jumbé up the hills: had they said, on +to an island, I might have believed them. + +_30th August,1866._--The fear which the English have inspired in the +Arab slave-traders is rather inconvenient. All flee from me as if I +had the plague, and I cannot in consequence transmit letters to the +coast, or get across the Lake. They seem to think that if I get into a +dhow I will be sure to burn it. As the two dhows on the Lake are used +for nothing else but the slave-trade, their owners have no hope of my +allowing them to escape, so after we have listened to various lies as +excuses, we resolve to go southwards, and cross at the point of +departure of the Shiré from the Lake. I took lunars several times on +both sides of the moon, and have written a despatch for Lord +Clarendon, besides a number of private letters. + +_3rd September, 1866._--Went down to confluence of the Misinjé and +came to many of the eatable insect "kungu,"--they are caught by a +quick motion of the hand holding a basket. We got a cake of these same +insects further down; they make a buzz like a swarm of bees, and are +probably the perfect state of some Lake insect. + +I observed two beaches of the Lake: one about fifteen feet above the +present high-water mark, and the other about forty above that; but +between the two the process of disintegration, which results from the +sudden cold and heat in these regions, has gone on so much that seldom +is a well-rounded smoothed one seen; the lower beach is very well +marked. + +The strike of large masses of foliated gneiss is parallel with the +major axis of the Lake, and all are tilted on edge. Some are a little +inclined to the Lake, as if dipping to it westwards, but others are as +much inclined the opposite way, or twisted. + +I made very good blue ink from the juice of a berry, the fruit of a +creeper, which is the colour of port wine when expressed. A little +ferri carb. ammon., added to this is all that is required. + +The poodle dog Chitané is rapidly changing the colour of its hair. All +the parts corresponding to the ribs and neck are rapidly becoming red; +the majority of country dogs are of this colour. + +The Manganja, or Wa-nyassa, are an aboriginal race; they have great +masses of hair, and but little, if any, of the prognathous in the +profile. Their bodies and limbs are very well made, and the +countenance of the men is often very pleasant. The women are very +plain and lumpy, but exceedingly industrious in their gardens from +early morning till about 11 A.M., then from 3 P.M. till dark, or +pounding corn and grinding it: the men make twine or nets by day, and +are at their fisheries in the evenings and nights. They build the +huts, the women plaster them. + +A black fish, the Nsaka, makes a hole, with raised edges, which, with +the depth from which they are taken, is from fifteen to eighteen +inches, and from two to three feet broad. It is called by the natives +their house. The pair live in it for some time, or until the female +becomes large for spawning; this operation over, the house is left. + +I gave Mokalaosé some pumpkin seed and peas. He took me into his +house, and presented a quantity of beer. I drank a little, and seeing +me desist from taking more, he asked if I wished a servant-girl to +"_pata mimba_." Not knowing what was meant, I offered the girl the +calabash of beer, and told her to drink, but this was not the +intention. He asked if I did not wish more; and then took the vessel, +and as he drank the girl performed the operation on himself. Placing +herself in front, she put both hands round his waist below the short +ribs, and pressing gradually drew them round to his belly in front. +He took several prolonged draughts, and at each she repeated the +operation, as if to make the liquor go equally over the stomach. Our +topers don't seem to have discovered the need for this. + +_5th September, 1866._--Our march is along the shore to Ngombo +promontory, which approaches so near to Senga or Tsenga opposite, as +to narrow the Lake to some sixteen or eighteen miles. It is a low +sandy point, the edge fringed on the north-west and part of the south +with a belt of papyrus and reeds; the central parts wooded. Part of +the south side has high sandy dunes, blown up by the south wind, which +strikes it at right angles there. One was blowing as we marched along +the southern side eastwards, and was very tiresome. We reached +Panthunda's village by a brook called Lilolé. Another we crossed +before coming to it is named Libesa: these brooks form the favourite +spawning grounds of the sanjika and mpasa, two of the best fishes of +the Lake. The sanjika is very like our herring in shape and taste and +size; the mpasa larger every way: both live on green herbage formed at +the bottom of the Lake and rivers. + +_7th September, 1866._--Chirumba's village being on the south side of +a long lagoon, we preferred sleeping on the mainland, though they +offered their cranky canoes to ferry us over. This lagoon is called +Pansangwa. + +_8th September, 1866._--In coming along the southern side of Ngombo +promontory we look eastwards, but when we leave it we turn southwards, +having a double range of lofty mountains on our left. These are +granitic in form, the nearer range being generally the lowest, and +covered with scraggy trees; the second, or more easterly, is some 6000 +feet above the sea, bare and rugged, with jagged peaks shooting high +into the air. This is probably the newest range. The oldest people +have felt no earthquake, but some say that they have heard of such +things from their elders. + +We passed very many sites of old villages, which are easily known by +the tree euphorbia planted round an umbelliferous one, and the sacred +fig. One species here throws out strong buttresses in the manner of +some mangroves instead of sending down twiners which take root, as is +usually the ease with the tropical fig. These, with millstones--stones +for holding the pots in cooking--and upraised clay benches, which have +been turned into brick by fire in the destruction of the huts, show +what were once the "pleasant haunts of men." No stone implements ever +appear. If they existed they could not escape notice, since the eyes +in walking are almost always directed to the ground to avoid stumbling +on stones or stumps. In some parts of the world stone implements are +so common they seem to have been often made and discarded as soon as +formed, possibly by getting better tools; if, indeed, the manufacture +is not as modern as that found by Mr. Waller. Passing some navvies in +the City who were digging for the foundation of a house, he observed a +very antique-looking vase, wet from the clay, standing on the bank. He +gave ten shillings for it, and subsequently, by the aid of a scrubbing +brush and some water, detected the hieroglyphics "Copeland late Spode" +on the bottom of it! + +Here the destruction is quite recent, and has been brought about by +some who entertained us very hospitably on the Misinjé, before we came +to the confluence. The woman chief, Ulenjelenjé, or Njelenjé, bore a +part in it for the supply of Arab caravans. It was the work of the +Masininga, a Waiyau tribe, of which her people form a part. They +almost depopulated the broad fertile tract, of some three or four +miles, between the mountain range and the Lake, along which our course +lay. It was wearisome to see the skulls and bones scattered about +everywhere; one would fain not notice them, but they are so striking +as one trudges along the sultry path, that it cannot be avoided. + +_9th September, 1866._--We spent Sunday at Kandango's village. The men +killed a hippopotamus when it was sleeping on the shore; a full-grown +female, 10 feet 9 inches from the snout to the insertion of the tail, +and 4 feet 4 inches high at the withers. The bottom here and all along +southwards now is muddy. Many of the _Siluris Glanis_ are caught equal +in length to an eleven or a twelve-pound salmon, but a great portion +is head; slowly roasted on a stick stuck in the ground before the fire +they seemed to me much more savoury than I ever tasted them before. +With the mud we have many shells: north of Ngombo scarcely one can be +seen, and there it is sandy or rocky. + +_10th September, 1866._--In marching southwards we came close to the +range (the Lake lies immediately on the other side of it), but we +could not note the bays which it forms; we crossed two mountain +torrents from sixty to eighty yards broad, and now only ankle deep. In +flood these bring down enormous trees, which are much battered and +bruised among the rocks in their course; they spread over the plain, +too, and would render travelling here in the rains impracticable. +After spending the night at a very civil headman's chefu, we crossed +the Lotendé, another of these torrents: each very lofty mass in the +range seemed to give rise to one. Nothing of interest occurred as we +trudged along. A very poor headman, Pamawawa, presented a roll of salt +instead of food: this was grateful to us, as we have been without that +luxury some time. + +_12th September, 1866._--We crossed the rivulet Nguena, and then went +on to another with a large village by it, it is called Pantoza +Pangone. The headman had been suffering from sore eyes for four +months, and pressed me to stop and give him medicine, which I did. + +_13th September, 1866._--We crossed a strong brook called Nkoré. My +object in mentioning the brooks which were flowing at this time, and +near the end of the dry season, is to give an idea of the sources of +supply of evaporation. The men enumerate the following, north of the +Misinjé. Those which are greater are marked thus +, and the lesser +ones -. + + 1. Misinjé + has canoes. + 2. Loangwa - + 3. Leséfa - + 4. Lelula - + 5. Nchamanjé - + 6. Musumba + + 7. Fubwé + + 8. Chia - + 9. Kisanga + + 10. Bweka - + 11. Chifumero + has canoes. + 12. Loangwa - + 13. Mkoho - + 14. Mangwelo - at N. end of Lake. + +Including the above there are twenty or twenty-four perennial brooks +and torrents which give a good supply of water in the dry season; in +the wet season they are supplemented by a number of burns, which, +though flowing now, have their mouths blocked up with bars of sand, +and yield nothing except by percolation; the Lake rises at least four +feet perpendicularly in the wet season, and has enough during the year +from these perennial brooks to supply the Shiré's continual flow. + +[It will be remembered that the beautiful river Shiré carries off the +waters of Lake Nyassa and joins the Zambesi near Mount Morambala, +about ninety miles from the sea. It is by this water-way that +Livingstone always hoped to find an easy access to Central Africa. +The only obstacles that exist are, first, the foolish policy of the +Portuguese with regard to Customs' duties at the mouth of the Zambesi; +and secondly, a succession of cataracts on the Shiré, which impede +navigation for seventy miles. The first hindrance may give way under +more liberal views than those which prevail at present at the Court of +Lisbon, and then the remaining difficulty--accepted as a fact--will be +solved by the establishment of a boat service both above and below the +cataracts. Had Livingstone survived he would have been cheered by +hearing that already several schemes are afoot to plant Missions in +the vicinity of Lake Nyassa, and we may with confidence look to the +revival of the very enterprise which he presently so bitterly deplores +as a thing of the past, for Bishop Steere has fully determined to +re-occupy the district in which fell his predecessor, Bishop +Mackenzie, and others attached to the Universities Mission.] + +In the course of this day's march we were pushed close to the Lake by +Mount Gomé, and, being now within three miles of the end of the Lake, +we could see the whole plainly. There we first saw the Shiré emerge, +and there also we first gazed on the broad waters of Nyassa. + +Many hopes have been disappointed here. Far down on the right bank of +the Zambesi lies the dust of her whose death changed all my future +prospects; and now, instead of a check being given to the slave-trade +by lawful commerce on the Lake, slave-dhows prosper! + +An Arab slave-party fled on hearing of us yesterday. It is impossible +not to regret the loss of good Bishop Mackenzie, who sleeps far down +the Shiré, and with him all hope of the Gospel being introduced into +Central Africa. The silly abandonment of all the advantages of the +Shiré route by the Bishop's successor I shall ever bitterly deplore, +but all will come right some day, though I may not live to +participate in the joy, or even see the commencement of better times. + +In the evening we reached the village of Cherekalongwa on the brook +Pamchololo, and were very jovially received by the headman with beer. +He says that Mukaté,[19] Kabinga, and Mponda alone supply the +slave-traders now by raids on the Manganja, but they go S.W. to the +Maravi, who, impoverished by a Mazitu raid, sell each other as well. + +_14th, September, 1866._--At Cherekalongwa's (who has a skin disease, +believed by him to have been derived from eating fresh-water turtles), +we were requested to remain one day in order that he might see us. He +had heard much about us; had been down the Shiré, and as far as +Mosambique, but never had an Englishman in his town before. As the +heat is great we were glad of the rest and beer, with which he very +freely supplied us. + +I saw the skin of a Phenembe, a species of lizard which devours +chickens; here it is named Salka. It had been flayed by a cut up the +back--body, 12 inches; across belly, 10 inches. + +After nearly giving up the search for Dr. Roscher's point of reaching +the Lake--because no one, either Arab or native, had the least idea of +either Nusseewa or Makawa, the name given to the place--I discovered +it in Lesséfa, the accentuated _é_ being sounded as our _e_ in _set_. +This word would puzzle a German philologist, as being the origin of +Nussewa, but the Waiyau pronounce it Loséwa, the Arabs Lusséwa, and +Roscher's servant transformed the _L_ and _é_ into _N_ and _ee_, hence +Nusseewa. In confirmation of this rivulet Leséfa, which is opposite +Kotakota, or, as the Arabs pronounce it, Nkotakota, the chief is +Mangkaka (Makawa), or as there is a confusion of names as to chief it +may be Mataka, whose town and district is called Moembé, the town +Pamoembe = Mamemba. + +I rest content with Kingomango so far verifying the place at which he +arrived two months after we had discovered Lake Nyassa. He deserved +all the credit due to finding the way thither, but he travelled as an +Arab, and no one suspected him to be anything else. Our visits have +been known far and wide, and great curiosity excited; but Dr. Roscher +merits the praise only of preserving his _incognito_ at a distance +from Kilwa: his is almost the only case known of successfully assuming +the Arab guise--Burckhardt is the exception. When Mr. Palgrave came to +Muscat, or a town in Oman where our political agent Col. Desborough +was stationed, he was introduced to that functionary by an interpreter +as Hajee Ali, &c. Col. Desborough replied, "You are no Hajee Ali, nor +anything else but Gifford Palgrave, with whom I was schoolfellow at +the Charter House." Col. Desborough said he knew him at once, from a +peculiar way of holding his head, and Palgrave begged him not to +disclose his real character to his interpreter, on whom, and some +others, he had been imposing. I was told this by Mr. Dawes, a +Lieutenant in the Indian navy, who accompanied Colonel Pelly in his +visit to the Nejed, Riad, &c, and took observations for him. + +_Tańgaré_ is the name of a rather handsome bean, which possesses +intoxicating qualities. To extract these it is boiled, then peeled, +and new water supplied: after a second and third boiling it is +pounded, and the meal taken to the river and the water allowed to +percolate through it several times. Twice cooking still leaves the +intoxicating quality; but if eaten then it does not cause death: it is +curious that the natives do not use it expressly to produce +intoxication. When planted near a tree it grows all over it, and +yields abundantly: the skin of the pod is velvety, like our broad +beans. + +Another bean, with a pretty white mark on it, grows freely, and is +easily cooked, and good: it is here called _Gwingwiza_. + +_15th September, 1866._--We were now a short distance south of the +Lake, and might have gone west to Mosauka's (called by some Pasauka's) +to cross the Shiré there, but I thought that my visit to Mukaté's, a +Waiyau chief still further south, might do good. He, Mponda, and +Kabinga, are the only three chiefs who still carry on raids against +the Manganja at the instigation of the coast Arabs, and they are now +sending periodical marauding parties to the Maravi (here named Malola) +to supply the Kilwa slave-traders. We marched three hours southwards, +then up the hills of the range which flanks all the lower part of the +Lake. The altitude of the town is about 800 feet above the Lake. The +population near the chief is large, and all the heights as far as the +eye can reach are crowned with villages. The second range lies a few +miles off, and is covered with trees as well as the first, the nearest +high mass is Mańgoché. The people live amidst plenty. All the chiefs +visited by the Arabs have good substantial square houses built for +their accommodation. Mukaté never saw a European before, and +everything about us is an immense curiosity to him and to his people. +We had long visits from him. He tries to extract a laugh out of every +remark. He is darker than the generality of Waiyau, with a full beard +trained on the chin, as all the people hereabouts have--Arab fashion. +The courts of his women cover a large space, our house being on one +side of them. I tried to go out that way, but wandered, so the ladies +sent a servant to conduct me out in the direction I wished to go, and +we found egress by passing through some huts with two doors in them. + +_16th September, 1866._--At Mukaté's. The Prayer Book does not give +ignorant persons any idea of an unseen Being addressed, it looks more +like reading or speaking to the book: kneeling and praying with eyes +shut is better than, our usual way of holding Divine service. + +We had a long discussion about the slave-trade. The Arabs have told +the chief that our object in capturing slavers is to get them into our +own possession, and make them of our own religion. The evils which we +have seen--the skulls, the ruined villages, the numbers who perish on +the way to the coast and on the sea, the wholesale murders committed +by the Waiyau to build up Arab villages elsewhere--these things Mukaté +often tried to turn off with a laugh, but our remarks are safely +lodged in many hearts. Next day, as we went along, our guide +spontaneously delivered their substance to the different villages +along our route. Before we reached him, a headman, in convoying me a +mile or two, whispered to me, "Speak to Mukaté to give his forays up." + +It is but little we can do, but we lodge a protest in the heart +against a vile system, and time may ripen it. Their great argument is, +"What could we do without Arab cloth?" My answer is, "Do what you did +before the Arabs came into the country." At the present rate of +destruction of population, the whole country will soon be a desert. + +An earthquake happened here last year, that is about the end of it or +beginning of this (the crater on the Grand. Comoro Island smoked for +three months about that time); it shook all the houses and everything, +but they observed no other effects.[20] No hot springs are known here. + +_17th September, 1866._--We marched down from Mukaté's and to about +the middle of the Lakelet Pamalombé. Mukaté had no people with canoes +near the usual crossing place, and he sent a messenger to see that we +were fairly served. Here we got the Manganja headmen to confess that +an earthquake had happened; all the others we have inquired of have +denied it; why, I cannot conceive. The old men said that they had felt +earthquakes twice, once near sunset and the next time at night--they +shook everything, and were accompanied with noise, and all the fowls +cackled; there was no effect on the Lake observed. They profess +ignorance of any tradition of the water having stood higher. Their +traditions say that they came originally from the west, or west +north-west, which they call "Maravi;" and that their forefathers +taught them to make nets and kill fish. They have no trace of any +teaching by a higher instructor; no carvings or writings on the rocks; +and they never heard of a book until we came among them. Their +forefathers never told them that after or at death they went to God, +but they had heard it said of such a one who died, "God took him." + +_18th September, 1866._--We embarked the whole party in eight canoes, +and went up the Lake to the point of junction between it and the +prolongation of Nyassa above it, called Massangano ("meetings"), which +took us two hours. A fishing party there fled on seeing us, though we +shouted that we were a travelling party (or "Olendo "). + +Mukaté's people here left us, and I walked up to the village of the +fugitives with one attendant only. Their suspicions were so thoroughly +aroused that they would do nothing. The headman (Pima) was said to be +absent; they could not lend us a hut, but desired us to go on to +Mponda's. We put up a shed for ourselves, and next morning, though we +pressed them for a guide, no one would come. + +From Pima's village we had a fine view of Pamalombé and the range of +hills on its western edge, the range which flanks the lower part of +Nyassa,--on part of which Mukaté lives,--the gap of low land south of +it behind which Shirwa Lake lies, and Chikala and Zomba nearly due +south from us. People say hippopotami come from Lake Shirwa into Lake +Nyassa. There is a great deal of vegetation in Pamalombé, gigantic +rushes, duckweed, and great quantities of aquatic plants on the +bottom; one slimy translucent plant is washed ashore in abundance. +Fish become very fat on these plants; one called "kadiakola" I eat +much of; it has a good mass of flesh on it. + +It is probable that the people of Lake Tanganyika and Nyassa, and +those on the Rivers Shiré and Zambesi, are all of one stock, for the +dialects vary very little.[21] I took observations on this point. An +Arab slave-party, hearing of us, decamped. + +_19th September, 1866._--When we had proceeded a mile this morning we +came to 300 or 400 people making salt on a plain impregnated with it. +They lixiviate the soil and boil the water, which has filtered through +a bunch of grass in a hole in the bottom of a pot, till all is +evaporated and a mass of salt left. We held along the plain till we +came to Mponda's, a large village, with a stream running past. The +plain at the village is very fertile, and has many large trees on it. +The cattle of Mponda are like fatted Madagascar beasts, and the hump +seems as if it would weigh 100 lbs.[22] The size of body is so +enormous that their legs, as remarked by our men, seemed very small. +Mponda is a blustering sort of person, but immensely interested in +everything European. He says that he would like to go with me. "Would +not care though he were away ten years." I say that he may die in the +journey.--"He will die here as well as there, but he will see all the +wonderful doings of our country." He knew me, having come to the boat, +to take a look _incognito_ when we were here formerly. + +We found an Arab slave-party here, and went to look at the slaves; +seeing this; Mponda was alarmed lest we should proceed to violence in +his town, but I said to him that we went to look only. Eighty-five +slaves were in a pen formed of dura stalks _(Holcus sorghum_). The +majority were boys of about eight or ten years of age; others were +grown men and women. Nearly all were in the taming-stick; a few of the +younger ones were in thongs, the thong passing round the neck of each. +Several pots were on the fires cooking dura and beans. A crowd went +with us, expecting a scene, but I sat down, and asked a few questions +about the journey, in front. The slave-party consisted of five or six +half-caste coast Arabs, who said that they came from Zanzibar; but the +crowd made such a noise that we could not hear ourselves speak. I +asked if they had any objections to my looking at the slaves, the +owners pointed out the different slaves, and said that after feeding +them, and accounting for the losses in the way to the coast, they made +little by the trip. I suspect that the gain is made by those who ship +them to the ports of Arabia, for at Zanzibar most of the younger +slaves we saw went at about seven dollars a head. I said to them it +was a bad business altogether. They presented fowls to me in the +evening. + +_20th September, 1866._--The chief begged so hard that I would stay +another day and give medicine to a sick child, that I consented. He +promised plenty of food, and, as an earnest of his sincerity, sent an +immense pot of beer in the evening. The child had been benefited by +the medicine given yesterday. He offered more food than we chose to +take. + +The agricultural class does not seem to be a servile one: all +cultivate, and the work is esteemed. The chief was out at his garden +when we arrived, and no disgrace is attached to the field labourer. +The slaves very likely do the chief part of the work, but all engage +in it, and are proud of their skill. Here a great deal of grain is +raised, though nearly all the people are Waiyau or Machinga. This is +remarkable, as they have till lately been marauding and moving from +place to place. The Manganja possessed the large breed of humped +cattle which fell into the hands of the Waiyau, and knew how to milk +them. Their present owners never milk them, and they have dwindled +into a few instead of the thousands of former times.[23] + +A lion killed a woman early yesterday morning, and ate most of her +undisturbed. + +It is getting very hot; the ground to the feet of the men "burns like +fire" after noon, so we are now obliged to make short marches, and +early in the morning chiefly. + +Wikatani--Bishop Mackenzie's favourite boy--met a brother here, and he +finds that he has an elder brother and a sister at Kabinga's. The +father who sold him into slavery is dead. He wishes to stop with his +relatives, and it will be well if he does. Though he has not much to +say, what he does advance against the slave-trade will have its +weight, and it will all be in the way of preparation for better times +and more light. + +The elder brother was sent for, but had not arrived when it was +necessary for us to leave Mponda's on the Rivulet Ntemangokwé. I +therefore gave Wikatani some cloth, a flint gun instead of the +percussion one he carried, some flints, paper to write upon, and +commended him to Mponda's care till his relatives arrived. He has +lately shown a good deal of levity, and perhaps it is best that he +should have a touch of what the world is in reality. + +[In a letter written about this time Dr. Livingstone, in speaking of +Wikatani, says, "He met with a brother, and found that he had two +brothers and one or two sisters living down at the western shore of +Lake Pamelombé under Kabinga. He thought that his relatives would not +again sell him. I had asked him if he wished to remain, and he at once +said yes, so I did not attempt to dissuade him: his excessive levity +will perhaps be cooled by marriage. I think he may do good by telling +some of what he has seen and heard. I asked him if he would obey an +order from his chief to hunt the Manganja, and he said, 'No.' I hope +he won't. In the event of any mission coming into the country of +Mataka, he will go there. I gave him paper to write to you,[24] and, +commending him to the chiefs, bade the poor boy farewell. I was sorry +to part with him, but the Arabs tell the Waiyau chiefs that our object +in liberating slaves is to make them our own and turn them to our +religion. I had declared to them, through Wikatani as interpreter, +that they never became our slaves, and were at liberty to go back to +their relatives if they liked; and now it was impossible to object to +Wikatani going without stultifying my own statements." It is only +necessary to repeat that Wikatani and Chuma had been liberated from +the slavers by Dr. Livingstone and Bishop Mackenzie in 1861; they were +mere children when set free. + +We must not forget to record the fact that when Mr. Young reached +Maponda, two years afterwards, to ascertain whether the Doctor really +had been murdered, as Musa declared, he was most hospitably received +by the chief, who had by this time a great appreciation of everything +English.] + +The lines of tattoo of the different tribes serve for ornaments, and +are resorted to most by the women; it is a sort of heraldry closely +resembling the Highland tartans. + +[Illustration: Manganja and Machinga women (from a Drawing by the late +Dr. Meller).] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[16] Coal was shown to a group of natives when first the _Pioneer_ +ascended the river Shiré. Members of numerous tribes were present, and +all recognised it at once as Makala or coal.--ED. + +[17] Dr. Livingstone heard this subsequently when at Casembe's. + +[18] The greater part were driven down into the Manganja country by +war and famine combined, and eventually filled the slave gangs of the +Portuguese, whose agents went from Tette and Senna to procure +them.--ED. + +[19] Pronounced Mkata by the Waiyau.--ED. + +[20] Earthquakes are by no means uncommon. A slight shock was felt in +1861 at Magomero; on asking the natives if they knew the cause of it, +they replied that on one occasion, after a very severe earthquake +which shook boulders off the mountains, all the wise men of the +country assembled to talk about it and came to the following +conclusion, that a star had fallen from heaven into the sea, and that +the bubbling caused the whole earth to rock; they said the effect was +the same as that caused by throwing, a red-hot stone into a pot of +water.--ED. + +[21] The Waiyau language differs very much from the Nyassa, and is +exceedingly difficult to master: it holds good from the coast to +Nyassa, but to the west of the Lake the Nyassa tongue is spoken over a +vast tract.--ED. + +[22] We shall see that more to the north the hump entirely disappears. + +[23] It is very singular to witness the disgust with which the idea of +drinking milk is received by most of these tribes when we remember +that the Caffre nations on the south, and again, tribes more to the +north, subsist principally on it. A lad will undergo punishment rather +than milk a goat. Eggs are likewise steadily eschewed.--ED. + +[24] To myself.--ED. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + Crosses Cape Maclear. The havildar demoralised. The discomfited + chief. Beaches Marenga's town. The earth-sponge. Description of + Marenga's town. Rumours of Mazitu. Musa and the Johanna men + desert. Beaches Kimsusa's. His delight at seeing the Doctor once + more. The fat ram. Kimsusa relates his experience of + Livingstone's advice. Chuma finds relatives. Kimsusa solves the + transport difficulty nobly. Another old fishing acquaintance. + Description of the people and country on the west of the Lake. + The Kanthundas. Kauma. Iron-smelting. An African Sir Colin + Campbell. Milandos. + +_21st September, 1866._--We marched westwards, making across the base +of Cape Maclear. Two men employed as guides and carriers, went along +grumbling that their dignity was so outraged by working--"only fancy +Waiyau carrying like slaves!!" They went but a short distance, and +took advantage of my being in front to lay down the loads, one of +which consisted of the havildar's bed and cooking things; here they +opened the other bundle and paid themselves--the gallant havildar +sitting and looking on. He has never been of the smallest use, and +lately has pretended to mysterious pains in his feet; no swelling or +other symptom accompanied this complaint. On coming to Pima's village +he ate a whole fowl and some fish for supper, slept soundly till +daybreak, then on awaking commenced a furious groaning--"feet were so +bad." I told him that people usually moaned when insensible, but he +had kept quiet till he awaked; he sulked at this, and remained all +day, though I sent a man to carry his kit for him, and when he came +up he had changed the seat of his complaint from his feet to any part +of his abdomen. He gave off his gun-belt and pouch to the carrier. +This was a blind to me, for I examined and found that he had already +been stealing and selling his ammunition: this is all preparatory to +returning to the coast with some slave-trader. Nothing can exceed the +ease and grace with which sepoys can glide from a swagger into the +most abject begging of food from the villagers. He has remained +behind. + +_22nd September, 1866._--The hills we crossed were about 700 feet above +Nyassa, generally covered with trees; no people were seen. We slept by +the brook Sikoché. Rocks of hardened sandstone rested on mica schist, +which had an efflorescence of alum on it, above this was dolomite; the +hills often capped with it and oak-spar, giving a snowy appearance. We +had a Waiyau party with us--six handsomely-attired women carried huge +pots of beer for their husbands, who very liberally invited us to +partake. After seven hours' hard travelling we came to the village, +where we spend Sunday by the torrent Usangazi, and near a remarkable +mountain, Namasi. The chief, a one-eyed man, was rather coy--coming +_incognito_ to visit us; and, as I suspected that he was present, I +asked if the chief were an old woman, afraid to look at and welcome a +stranger? All burst into a laugh, and looked at him, when he felt +forced to join in it, and asked what sort of food we liked best. Chuma +put this clear enough by saying, "He eats everything eaten by the +Waiyau." This tribe, or rather the Machinga, now supersede the +Manganja. We passed one village of the latter near this, a sad, +tumble-down affair, while the Waiyau villages are very neat, with +handsome straw or reed fences all around their huts. + +_24th September, 1866._--We went only 2-1/2 miles to the village of +Marenga, a very large one, situated at the eastern edge of the bottom +of the heel of the Lake. The chief is ill of a loathsome disease +derived direct from the Arabs. Raised patches of scab of circular form +disfigure the face and neck as well as other parts. His brother begged +me to see him and administer some remedy for the same complaint. He is +at a village a little way off, and though sent for, was too ill to +come or to be carried. The tribe is of Babisa origin. Many of these +people had gone to the coast as traders, and returning with arms and +ammunition joined the Waiyau in their forays on the Manganja, and +eventually set themselves up as an independent tribe. The women do not +wear the lip-ring, though the majority of them are Waiyau. They +cultivate largely, and have plenty to eat. They have cattle, but do +not milk them. + +The bogs, or earthen sponges,[25] of this country occupy a most +important part in its physical geography, and probably explain the +annual inundations of most of the rivers. Wherever a plain sloping +towards a narrow opening in hills or higher ground exists, there we +have the conditions requisite for the formation of an African sponge. +The vegetation, not being of a heathy or peat-forming kind, falls +down, rots, and then forms rich black loam. In many cases a mass of +this loam, two or three feet thick, rests on a bed of pure river sand, +which is revealed by crabs and other aquatic animals bringing it to +the surface. At present, in the dry season, the black loam is cracked +in all directions, and the cracks are often as much as three inches +wide, and very deep. The whole surface has now fallen down, and rests +on the sand, but when the rains come, the first supply is nearly all +absorbed in the sand. The black loam forms soft slush, and floats on +the sand. The narrow opening prevents it from moving off in a +landslip, but an oozing spring rises at that spot. All the pools in +the lower portion of this spring-course are filled by the first rains, +which happen south of the equator when the sun goes vertically over +any spot. The second, or greater rains, happen in his course north +again, when all the bogs and river-courses being wet, the supply runs +off, and forms the inundation: this was certainly the case as observed +on the Zambesi and Shiré, and, taking the different times for the +sun's passage north of the equator, it explains the inundation of the +Nile. + +_25th September, 1866._--Marenga's town on the west shore of Lake Nyassa is +very large, and his people collected in great numbers to gaze at the +stranger. The chief's brother asked a few questions, and I took the +occasion to be a good one for telling him something about the Bible +and the future state. The men said that their fathers had never told +them aught about the soul, but they thought that the whole man rotted +and came to nothing. What I said was very nicely put by a volunteer +spokesman, who seemed to have a gift that way, for all listened most +attentively, and especially when told that our Father in heaven loved +all, and heard prayers addressed to Him. + +Marenga came dressed in a red-figured silk shawl, and attended by +about ten court beauties, who spread a mat for him, then a cloth +above, and sat down as if to support him. He asked me to examine his +case inside a hut. He exhibited his loathsome skin disease, and being +blacker than his wives, the blotches with which he was covered made +him appear very ugly. He thought that the disease was in the country +before Arabs came. Another new disease acquired from them was the +small-pox. + +_26th September, 1866._--An Arab passed us yesterday, his slaves going by +another route across the base of Cape Maclear. He told Musa that all +the country in front was full of Mazitu; that forty-four Arabs and +their followers had been killed by them at Kasungu, and he only +escaped. Musa and all the Johanna men now declared that they would go +no farther. Musa said, "No good country that; I want to go back to +Johanna to see my father and mother and son." I took him to Marenga, +and asked the chief about the Mazitu. He explained that the +disturbance was caused by the Manganja finding that Jumbé brought +Arabs and ammunition into the country every year, and they resented it +in consequence; they would not allow more to come, because they were +the sufferers, and their nation was getting destroyed. + +I explained to Musa that we should avoid the Mazitu: Marenga added, +"There are no Mazitu near where you are going;" but Musa's eyes _stood +out_ with terror, and he said, "I no can believe that man." But I +inquired, "How can you believe the Arab so easily?" Musa answered, "I +ask him to tell me true, and he say true, true," &c. + +When we started, all the Johanna men walked off, leaving the goods on +the ground. They have been such inveterate thieves that I am not sorry +to get rid of them; for though my party is now inconveniently small, I +could not trust them with flints in their guns, nor allow them to +remain behind, for their object was invariably to plunder their loads. + +[Here then we have Livingstone's account of the origin of that +well-told story, which at first seemed too true. How Mr. Edward Young, +R.N., declared it to be false, and subsequently proved it untrue, is +already well known. This officer's quick voyage to Lake Nyassa +reflected the greatest credit on him, and all hearts were filled with +joy when he returned and reported the tale of Livingstone's murder to +be merely an invention of Musa and his comrades.] + +I ought to mention that the stealing by the Johanna men was not the +effect of hunger; it attained its height when we had plenty. If one +remained behind, we knew his object in delaying was stealing. He gave +what he filched to the others, and Musa shared the dainties they +bought with the stolen property. When spoken to he would say, "I every +day tell Johanna men no steal Doctor's things." As he came away and +left them in the march, I insisted out his bringing up all his men; +this he did not relish, and the amount stolen was not small. One stole +fifteen pounds of fine powder, another seven, another left six +table-cloths out of about twenty-four; another called out to a man to +bring a fish, and he would buy it with beads, the beads being stolen, +and Musa knew it all and connived at it; but it was terror that drove +him away at last. + +With our goods in canoes we went round the bottom of the heel of +Nyassa, slept among reeds, and next morning (27th) landed at Msangwa, +which is nearly opposite Kimsusa's, or Katosa's, as the Makololo +called him. A man had been taken off by a crocodile last night; he had +been drinking beer, and went down to the water to cool himself, where +he lay down, and the brute seized him. The water was very muddy, being +stirred up by an east wind, which lashed the waves into our canoes, +and wetted our things. The loud wail of the women is very painful to +hear; it sounds so dolefully. + +_28th, September, 1866._--We reached Kinisusa's, below Mount Mulundini, of +Kirk's range.[26] The chief was absent, but he was sent for +immediately: his town has much increased since I saw it last. + +_29th September, 1866._--Another Arab passed last night, with the tale that +his slaves had all been taken from him by the Mazitu. It is more +respectable to be robbed by them than by the Manganja, who are much +despised and counted nobodies. I propose to go west of this among the +Maravi until quite away beyond the disturbances, whether of Mazitu or +Manganja. + +_30th September, 1866._--We enjoy our Sunday here. We have-abundance of +food from Kimsusa's wife. The chief wished me to go alone and enjoy +his drinking bout, and then we could return to this place together; +but this was not to my taste. + +_1st October, 1866._--Kimsusa, or Mehusa, came this morning, and +seemed very glad again to see his old friend. He sent off at once to +bring an enormous ram, which had either killed or seriously injured a +man. The animal came tied to a pole to keep him off the man who held +it, while a lot more carried him. He was prodigiously fat;[27] this is +a true African way of showing love--plenty of fat and beer. +Accordingly the chief brought a huge basket of "pombe," the native +beer, and another of "nsima," or porridge, and a pot of cooked meat; +to these were added a large basket of maize. So much food had been +brought to us, that we had at last to explain that we could not carry +it. + +[The Doctor states a fact in the next few lines which shows that the +Africans readily profit by advice which appeals to their common sense, +and we make this observation in full knowledge of similar instances.] + +Kimsusa says that they felt earthquakes at the place Mponda now +occupies, but none where he is now. He confirms the tradition that the +Manganja came from the west or W.N.W. He speaks more rationally about +the Deity than some have done, and adds, that it was by following the +advice which I gave him the last time I saw him, and not selling his +people, that his village is now three times its former size. He has +another village besides, and he was desirous that I should see that +too; that was the reason he invited me to come, but the people would +come and visit me. + +_2nd October, 1866._--Kimsusa made his appearance early with a huge +basket of beer, 18 inches high and 15 inches in diameter. He served it +out for a time, taking deep draughts himself, becoming extremely +loquacious in consequence. He took us to a dense thicket behind his +town, among numbers of lofty trees, many of which I have seen nowhere +else; that under which we sat bears a fruit in clusters, which is +eatable, and called "_Mbedwa_." A space had been cleared, and we were +taken to this shady spot as the one in which business of importance +and secrecy is transacted. Another enormous basket of beer was brought +here by his wives, but there was little need for it, for Kimsusa +talked incessantly, and no business was done. + +_3rd October, 1866._--The chief came early, and sober. I rallied him +on his previous loquacity, and said one ought to find time in the +morning if business was to be done: he took it in good part, and one +of his wives joined in bantering him. She is _the_ wife and the mother +of the sons in whom he delights, and who will succeed him. I proposed +to him to send men with me to the Babisa country, and I would pay them +there, where they could buy ivory for him with the pay, and, bringing +it back, he would be able to purchase clothing without selling his +people. He says that his people would not bring the pay or anything +else back. When he sends to purchase ivory he gives the price to Arabs +or Babisa, and they buy for him and conduct his business honestly; but +his people, the Manganja, cannot be trusted: this shows a remarkable +state of distrust, and, from previous information, it is probably +true. + +A party of the Arab Khambuiri's people went up lately to the Maravi +country above this, and immediately west of Kirk's range, to purchase +slaves: but they were attacked by the Maravi, and dispersed with +slaughter: this makes Kimsusa's people afraid to venture there. They +had some quarrel with the Maravi also of their own, and no intercourse +now took place. A path further south was followed by Mponda lately, +and great damage done, so it would not be wise to go on his footsteps. +Kimsusa said he would give me carriers to go up to the Maravi, but he +wished to be prepaid: to this I agreed, but even then he could not +prevail on anyone to go. He then sent for an old Mobisa man, who has a +village under him, and acknowledges Kimsusa's power. He says that he +fears that, should he force his Manganja to go, they would leave us on +the road, or run away on the first appearance of danger; but this +Mobisa man would be going to his own country, and would stick by us. +Meanwhile the chief overstocks us with beer and other food. + +_4th October, 1866._--The Mobisa man sent for came, but was so ignorant of +his own country, not knowing the names of the chief Babisa town or any +of the rivers, that I declined his guidance. He would only have been a +clog on us; and anything about the places in front of us we could +ascertain at the villages where we touch by inquiry as well as he +could. + +A woman turned up here, and persuaded Chuma that she was his aunt. He +wanted to give her at once a fathom of calico and beads, and wished me +to cut his pay down for the purpose. I persuaded him to be content +with a few beads for her. He gave her his spoon and some other +valuables, fully persuaded that she was a relative, though he was +interrogated first as to his father's name, and tribe, &c., before she +declared herself. + +It shows a most forgiving disposition on the part of these boys to +make presents to those who, if genuine relations, actually sold them. +But those who have been caught young, know nothing of the evils of +slavery, and do not believe in its ills. Chuma, for instance, believes +now that he was caught and sold by the Manganja, and not by his own +Waiyau, though it was just in the opposite way that he became a slave, +and he asserted and believes that no Waiyau ever sold his own child. +When reminded that Wikatani was sold by his own father, he denied it; +then that the father of Chimwala, another boy, sold him, his mother, +and sister, he replied, "These are Machinga." This is another tribe of +Waiyau; but this showed that he was determined to justify his +countrymen at any rate. I mention this matter, because though the +Oxford and Cambridge Mission have an advantage in the instruction of +boys taken quite young from slavers, yet these same boys forget the +evils to which they were exposed and from which they were rescued, and +it is even likely that they will, like Chuma, deny that any benefit +was conferred upon them by their deliverance. This was not stated +broadly by Chuma, but his tone led one to believe that he was quite +ready to return to the former state. + +_5th October, 1866._--The chief came early with an immense basket of +beer, as usual. We were ready to start: he did not relish this; but I +told him it was clear that his people set very light by his authority. +He declared that he would force them or go himself, with his wives as +carriers. This dawdling and guzzling had a bad effect on my remaining +people. Simon, a Nassick lad, for instance, overheard two words which +he understood; these were "Mazitu" and "lipululu," or desert; and from +these he conjured up a picture of Mazitu rushing out upon us from the +jungle, and killing all without giving us time to say a word! To this +he added scraps of distorted information: Khambuiri was a very bad +chief in front, &c., all showing egregious cowardice; yet he came to +give me advice. On asking what he knew (as he could not speak the +language), he replied that he heard the above two words, and that +Chuma could not translate them, but he had caught them, and came to +warn me. + +The chief asked me to stay over to-day, and he would go with his wives +to-morrow; I was his friend, and he would not see me in difficulties +without doing his utmost. He says that there is no danger of our not +finding people for carrying loads. It is probable that Khambuiri's +people went as marauders, and were beaten off in consequence. + +_6th October, 1866._--We marched about seven miles to the north to a +village opposite the pass Tapiri, and on a rivulet, Godedza. It was +very hot. Kimsusa behaves like a king: his strapping wives came to +carry loads, and shame his people. Many of the young men turned out +and took the loads, but it was evident that they feared retaliation if +they ventured up the pass. One wife carried beer, another meal; and as +soon as we arrived, cooking commenced: porridge and roasted goat's +flesh made a decent meal. A preparation of meal called "Toku" is very +refreshing and brings out all the sugary matter in the grain: he gave +me some in the way, and, seeing I liked it, a calabash full was +prepared for me in the evening. Kimsusa delights in showing me to his +people as his friend. If I could have used his pombe, or beer, it +would have put some fat on my bones, but it requires a strong +digestion; many of the chiefs and their wives live on it almost +entirely. A little flesh is necessary to relieve the acidity it +causes; and they keep all flesh very carefully, no matter how high it +may become: drying it on a stage over a fire prevents entire +putridity. + +_7th October, 1866._--I heard hooping-cough[28] in the village. We +found our visitors so disagreeable that I was glad to march; they were +Waiyau, and very impudent, demanding gun or game medicine to enable +them to shoot well: they came into the hut uninvited, and would take +no denial. It is probable that the Arabs drive a trade in gun +medicine: it is inserted in cuts made above the thumb, and on the +forearm. Their superciliousness shows that they feel themselves to be +the dominant race. The Manganja trust to their old bows and arrows; +they are much more civil than Ajawa or Waiyau. + +[The difference between these two great races is here well worthy of +the further notice which Livingstone no doubt would have given it. As +a rule, the Manganja are extremely clever in all the savage arts and +manufactures. Their looms turn out a strong serviceable cotton cloth; +their iron weapons and implements show a taste for design which is not +reached by the neighbouring tribes, and in all matters that relate to +husbandry they excel: but in dash and courage they are deficient. The +Waiyau, on the contrary, have round apple-shaped heads, as +distinguished from the long well-shaped heads of the poor Manganja; +they are jocular and merry, given to travelling, and bold in +war--these are qualities which serve them well as they are driven from +pillar to post through slave wars and internal dissension, but they +have not the brains of the Manganja, nor the talent to make their mark +in any direction where brains are wanted.] + +A Manganja man, who formerly presented us with the whole haul of his +net, came and gave me four fowls: some really delight in showing +kindness. When we came near the bottom of the pass Tapiri, Kimsusa's +men became loud against his venturing further; he listened, then burst +away from them: he listened again, then did the same; and as he had +now got men for us, I thought it better to let him go. + +In three hours and a quarter we had made a clear ascent of 2200 feet +above the Lake. The first persons we met were two men and a boy, who +were out hunting with a dog and basket-trap. This is laid down in the +run of some small animal; the dog chases it, and it goes into the +basket which is made of split bamboo, and has prongs looking inwards, +which prevent its egress: mouse traps are made in the same fashion. I +suspected that the younger of the men had other game in view, and +meant, if fit opportunity offered, to insert an arrow in a Waiyau, who +was taking away his wife as a slave. He told me before we had gained +the top of the ascent that some Waiyau came to a village, separated +from his by a small valley, picked a quarrel with the inhabitants, and +then went and took the wife and child of a poorer countryman to pay +these pretended offences. + +_8th October, 1866._--At the first village we found that the people up +here and those down below were mutually afraid of each other. Kimsusa +came to the bottom of the range, his last act being the offer of a pot +of beer, and a calabash of Toku, which latter was accepted. I paid his +wives for carrying our things: they had done well, and after we gained +the village where we slept, sang and clapped their hands vigorously +till one o'clock in the morning, when I advised them to go to sleep. +The men he at last provided were very faithful and easily satisfied. +Here we found the headman, Kawa, of Mpalapala, quite as hospitable. In +addition to providing a supper, it is the custom to give breakfast +before starting. Resting on the 8th to make up for the loss of rest on +Sunday; we marched on Tuesday (the 9th), but were soon brought to a +stand by Gombwa, whose village, Tamiala, stands on another ridge. + +Gombwa, a laughing, good-natured man, said that he had sent for all +his people to see me; and I ought to sleep, to enable them to look on +one the like of whom had never come their way before. Intending to go +on, I explained some of my objects in coming through the country, +advising the people to refrain from selling each other, as it ends in +war and depopulation. He was cunning, and said, "Well, you must sleep +here, and all my people will come and hear those words of peace." I +explained that I had employed carriers, who expected to be paid though +I had gone but a small part of a day; he replied, "But they will go +home and come again to-morrow, and it will count but one day:" I was +thus constrained to remain. + +_9th October, 1866._--Both barometer and boiling-point showed an +altitude of upwards of 4000 feet above the sea. This is the hottest +month, but the air is delightfully clear, and delicious. The country +is very fine, lying in long slopes, with mountains rising all around, +from 2000 to 3000 feet above this upland. They are mostly jagged and +rough (not rounded like those near to Mataka's): the long slopes are +nearly denuded of trees, and the patches of cultivation are so large +and often squarish in form, that but little imagination is requisite +to transform the whole into the cultivated fields of England; but no +hedgerows exist. The trees are in clumps on the tops of the ridges, or +at the villages, or at the places of sepulture. Just now the young +leaves are out, but are not yet green. In some lights they look brown, +but with transmitted light, or when one is near them, crimson +prevails. A yellowish-green is met sometimes in the young leaves, and +brown, pink, and orange-red. The soil is rich, but the grass is only +excessively rank in spots; in general it is short. A kind of trenching +of the ground is resorted to; they hoe deep, and draw it well to +themselves: this exposes the other earth to the hoe. The soil is +burned too: the grass and weeds are placed in flat heaps, and soil +placed over them: the burning is slow, and most of the products of +combustion are retained to fatten the field; in this way the people +raise large crops. Men and women and children engage in field labour, +but at present many of the men are engaged in spinning buazé[29] and +cotton. The former is made into a coarse sacking-looking stuff, +immensely strong, which seems to be worn by the women alone; the men +are clad in uncomfortable goatskins. No wild animals seem to be in the +country, and indeed the population is so large they would have very +unsettled times of it. At every turning we meet people, or see their +villages; all armed with bows and arrows. The bows are unusually long: +I measured one made of bamboo, and found that along the bowstring it +measured six feet four inches. Many carry large knives of fine iron; +and indeed the metal is abundant. Young men and women wear the hair +long, a mass of small ringlets comes down and rests on the shoulders, +giving them the appearance of the ancient Egyptians. One side is often +cultivated, and the mass hangs jauntily on that side; some few have a +solid cap of it. Not many women wear the lip-ring: the example of the +Waiyau has prevailed so far; but some of the young women have raised +lines crossing each other on the arms, which must have cost great +pain: they have also small cuts, covering in some cases the whole +body. The Maravi or Manganja here may be said to be in their primitive +state. We find them very liberal with their food: we give a cloth to +the headman of the village where we pass the night, and he gives a +goat, or at least cooked fowls and porridge, at night and morning. + +[Illustration: Tattoo on Women.] + +We were invited by Gombwa in the afternoon to speak the same words to +his people that we used to himself in the morning. He nudged a boy to +respond, which is considered polite, though he did it only with a +rough hem! at the end of each sentence. As for our general discourse +we mention our relationship to our Father: His love to all His +children--the guilt of selling any of His children--the consequence; +_e.g._ it begets war, for they don't like to sell their own, and steal +from other villagers, who retaliate. Arabs and Waiyau invited into the +country by their selling, foster feuds, and war and depopulation +ensue. We mention the Bible--future state--prayer: advise union, that +they should unite as one family to expel enemies, who came first as +slave-traders, and ended by leaving the country a wilderness. In +reference to union, we showed that they ought to have seen justice +done to the man who lost his wife and child at their very doors; but +this want of cohesion is the bane of the Manganja. If the evil does +not affect themselves they don't care whom it injures; and Gombwa +confirmed this, by saying that when he routed Khambuiri's people, the +villagers west of him fled instead of coming to his aid. + +We hear that many of the Manganja up here are fugitives from Nyassa. + +_10th October, 1866._--Kawa and his people were with us early this +morning, and we started from Tamiala with them. The weather is lovely, +and the scenery, though at present tinged with yellow from the grass, +might be called glorious. The bright sun and delicious air are quite +exhilarating. We passed a fine flowing rivulet, called Levizé, going +into the Lake, and many smaller runnels of delicious cold water. On +resting by a dark sepulchral grove, a tree attracted the attention, as +nowhere else seen: it is called Bokonto, and said to bear eatable +fruit. Many fine flowers were just bursting into full blossom. After +about four hours' march we put up at Chitimba, the village of +Kańgomba, and were introduced by Kawa, who came all the way for the +purpose. + +_11th October, 1866._--A very cold morning, with a great bank of black +clouds in the east, whence the wind came. Therm. 59°; in hut 69°. The +huts are built very well. The roof, with the lower part plastered, is +formed so as not to admit a ray of light, and the only visible mode of +ingress for it is by the door. This case shows that winter is cold: on +proposing to start, breakfast was not ready: then a plan was formed to +keep me another day at a village close by, belonging to one Kulu, a +man of Kauma, to whom we go next. It was effectual, and here we are +detained another day. A curiously cut-out stool is in my hut, made by +the Mkwisa, who are south-west of this: it is of one block, but +hollowed out, and all the spaces indicated are hollow too: about 2-1/2 +feet long by 1-1/2 foot high. + +[Illustration: Curiously cut-out stool of one block of wood hollowed +out.] + +_12th October, 1866._--We march westerly, with a good deal of +southing. Kulu gave us a goat, and cooked liberally for us all. He set +off with us as if to go to Kauma's in our company, but after we had +gone a couple of miles he slipped behind, and ran away. Some are +naturally mean, and some naturally noble: the mean cannot help showing +their nature, nor can the noble; but the noble-hearted must enjoy life +most. Kulu got a cloth, and he gave us at least its value; but he +thought he had got more than he gave, and so by running away that he +had done us nicely, without troubling himself to go and introduce us +to Kauma. I usually request a headman of a village to go with us. They +give a good report of us, if for no other reason than for their own +credit, because no one likes to be thought giving his countenance to +people other than respectable, and it costs little. + +We came close to the foot of several squarish mountains, having +perpendicular sides. One, called "Ulazo pa Malungo," is used by the +people, whose villages cluster round its base as a storehouse for +grain. Large granaries stand on its top, containing food to be used in +case of war. A large cow is kept up there, which is supposed capable +of knowing and letting the owners know when war is coming.[30] There +is a path up, but it was not visible to us. The people are all +Kanthunda, or climbers, not Maravi. Kimsusa said that he was the only +Maravi chief, but this I took to be an ebullition of beer bragging: +the natives up here, however, confirm this, and assert that they are +not Maravi, who are known by having markings down the side of the +face. + +We spent the night at a Kanthunda village on the western side of a +mountain called Phunzé (the _h_ being an aspirate only). Many villages +are planted round its base, but in front, that is, westwards, we have +plains, and there the villages are as numerous: mostly they are within +half a mile of each other, and few are a mile from other hamlets. Each +village has a clump of trees around it: this is partly for shade and +partly for privacy from motives of decency. The heat of the sun causes +the effluvia to exhale quickly, so they are seldom offensive. The rest +of the country, where not cultivated, is covered with grass, the +seed-stalks about knee deep. It is gently undulating, lying in low +waves, stretching N.E. and S.W. The space between each wave is usually +occupied by a boggy spot or watercourse, which in some cases is filled +with pools with trickling rills between. All the people are engaged +at present in making mounds six or eight feet square, and from two to +three feet high. The sods in places not before hoed are separated from +the soil beneath and collected into flattened heaps, the grass +undermost; when dried, fire is applied and slow combustion goes on, +most of the products of the burning being retained in the ground, much +of the soil is incinerated. The final preparation is effected by the +men digging up the subsoil round the mound, passing each hoeful into +the left hand, where it pulverizes, and is then thrown on to the heap. +It is thus virgin soil on the top of the ashes and burned ground of +the original heap, very clear of weeds. At present many mounds have +beans and maize about four inches high. Holes, a foot in diameter and +a few inches deep, are made irregularly over the surface of the mound, +and about eight or ten grains put into each: these are watered by hand +and calabash, and kept growing till the rains set in, when a very +early crop is secured. + +_13th October, 1866._--After leaving Phunzé, we crossed the Levińgé, a +rivulet which flows northwards, and then into Lake Nyassa; the lines +of gentle undulation tend in that direction. Some hills appear on the +plains, but after the mountains which we have left behind they are +mere mounds. We are over 3000 feet above the sea, and the air is +delicious; but we often pass spots covered with a plant which grows in +marshy places, and its heavy smell always puts me in mind that at +other seasons this may not be so pleasant a residence. The fact of +even maize being planted on mounds where the ground is naturally quite +dry, tells a tale of abundant humidity of climate. + +Kauma, a fine tall man, with a bald head and pleasant manners, told us +that some of his people had lately returned from the Chibisa or Babisa +country, whither they had gone to buy ivory, and they would give me +information about the path. He took a fancy to one of the boys' +blankets; offering a native cloth, much larger, in exchange, and even +a sheep to boot; but the owner being unwilling to part with his +covering, Kauma told me that he had not sent for his Babisa travellers +on account of my boy refusing to deal with him. A little childish +this, but otherwise he was very hospitable; he gave me a fine goat, +which, unfortunately, my people left behind. + +The chief said that no Arabs ever came his way, nor Portuguese native +traders. When advising them to avoid the first attempts to begin the +slave-trade, as it would inevitably lead to war and depopulation, +Kauma replied that the chiefs had resolved to unite against the Waiyau +of Mpondé should he come again on a foray up to the highlands; but +they are like a rope of sand, there is no cohesion among them, and +each village is nearly independent of every other: they mutually +distrust each other. + +_14th October, 1866._--Spent Sunday here. Kauma says that his people +are partly Kanthunda and partly Chipéta. The first are the +mountaineers, the second dwellers on the plains. The Chipéta have many +lines of marking: they are all only divisions of the great Manganja +tribe, and their dialects differ very slightly from that spoken by the +same people on the Shiré. The population is very great and very +ceremonious. When we meet anyone he turns aside and sits down: we clap +the hand on the chest and say, "Re peta--re peta," that is, "we pass," +or "let us pass:" this is responded to at once by a clapping of the +hands together. When a person is called at a distance he gives two +loud claps of assent; or if he rises from near a superior he does, the +same thing, which is a sort of leave-taking. + +We have to ask who are the principal chiefs in the direction which we +wish to take, and decide accordingly. Zomba was pointed out as a chief +on a range of hills on our west: beyond him lies Undi m'senga. I had +to take this route, as my people have a very vivid idea of the danger +of going northwards towards the Mazitu. We made more southing than we +wished. One day beyond Zomba and W.S.W. is the part called Chindando, +where the Portuguese formerly went for gold. They don't seem to have +felt it worth while to come here, as neither ivory nor gold could be +obtained if they did. The country is too full of people to allow any +wild animals elbow-room: even the smaller animals are hunted down by +means of nets and dogs. + +We rested at Pachoma; the headman offering a goat and beer, but I +declined, and went on to Molomba. Here Kauma's carriers turned because +a woman had died that morning as we left the village. They asserted +that had she died before we started not a man would have left: this +shows a reverence for death, for the woman was no relative of any of +them. The headman of Molomba was very poor but very liberal, cooking +for us and presenting a goat: another headman from a neighbouring +village, a laughing, good-natured old man, named Chikala, brought beer +and a fowl in the morning. I asked him to go on with us to Mironga, it +being important, as above-mentioned, to have the like of his kind in +our company, and he consented. We saw Mount Ngala in the distance, +like a large sugar-loaf shot up in the air: in our former route to +Kasungu we passed north of it. + +_16th October, 1866._--Crossed the rivulet Chikuyo going N. for the +Lake, and Mironga being but one-and-a-half hour off, we went on to +Chipanga: this is the proper name of what on the Zambesi is corrupted +into Shupanga. The headman, a miserable hemp-consuming[31] leper, fled +from us. We were offered a miserable hut, which we refused, Chikala +meanwhile went through the whole village seeking a better, which we +ultimately found: it was not in this chief to be generous, though +Chikala did what he could in trying to indoctrinate him: when I gave +him a present he immediately proposed to _sell_ a goat! We get on +pretty well however. + +Zomha is in a range of hills to our west, called Zala nyama. The +Portuguese, in going to Casembe, went still further west than this. + +Passing on we came to a smithy, and watched the founder at work +drawing off slag from the bottom of his furnace. He broke through the +hardened slag by striking it with an iron instrument inserted in the +end of a pole, when the material flowed out of the small hole left for +the purpose in the bottom of the furnace. The ore (probably the black +oxide) was like sand, and was put in at the top of the furnace, mixed +with charcoal. Only one bellows was at work, formed out of a goatskin, +and the blast was very poor. Many of these furnaces, or their remains, +are met with on knolls; those at work have a peculiarly tall hut built +over them. + +On the eastern edge of a valley lying north and south, with the +Diampwé stream flowing along it, and the Dzala nyama range on the +western side, are two villages screened by fine specimens of the +_Ficus Indica_. One of these is owned by the headman Theresa, and +there we spent the night. We made very short marches, for the sun is +very powerful, and the soil baked hard, is sore on the feet: no want +of water, however, is felt, for we come to supplies every mile or two. + +The people look very poor, having few or no beads; the ornaments being +lines and cuttings on the skin. They trust more to buazé than cotton. +I noticed but two cotton patches. The women are decidedly plain; but +monopolize all the buazé cloth. Theresa was excessively liberal, and +having informed us that Zomba lived some distance up the range and was +not the principal man in these parts, we, to avoid climbing the hills, +turned away to the north, in the direction of the paramount chief, +Chisumpi, whom we found to be only traditionally great. + +_20th October, 1866._--In passing along we came to a village embowered +in fine trees; the headman is Kaveta, a really fine specimen of the +Kanthunda, tall, well-made, with a fine forehead and Assyrian nose. He +proposed to us to remain over night with him, and I unluckily +declined. + +Convoying us out a mile, we parted with this gentleman, and then came +to a smith's village, where the same invitation was given and refused. +A sort of infatuation drove us on, and after a long hot march we found +the great Chisumpi, the facsimile in black of Sir Colin Campbell; his +nose, mouth, and the numerous wrinkles on his face were identical with +those of the great General, but here all resemblance ceased. Two men +had preceded us to give information, and when I followed I saw that +his village was one of squalid misery, the only fine things about +being the lofty trees in which it lay. Chisumpi begged me to sleep at +a village about half a mile behind: his son was browbeating him on +some domestic affair, and the older man implored me to go. Next +morning he came early to that village, and arranged for our departure, +offering nothing, and apparently not wishing to see us at all. I +suspect that though paramount chief, he is weak-minded, and has lost +thereby all his influence, but in the people's eyes he is still a +great one. + +Several of my men exhibiting symptoms of distress, I inquired for a +village in which we could rest Saturday and Sunday, and at a distance +from Chisumpi. A headman volunteered to lead us to one west of this. +In passing the sepulchral grove of Chisumpi our guide remarked, +"Chisumpi's forefathers sleep there." This was the first time I have +heard the word "sleep" applied to death in these parts. The trees in +these groves, and around many of the villages, are very large, and +show what the country would become if depopulated. + +We crossed the Diampwé or Adiampwé, from five to fifteen yards wide, +and well supplied with water even now. It rises near the Ndomo +mountains, and flows northwards into the Lintipé and Lake. We found +Chitokola's village, called Paritala, a pleasant one on the east side +of the Adiampwé Valley. Many elephants and other animals feed in the +valley, and we saw the Bechuana Hopo[32] again after many years. + +The Ambarré, otherwise Nyumbo plant, has a pea-shaped, or rather +papilionaceous flower, with a fine scent. It seems to grow quite wild; +its flowers are yellow. + +Chaola is the poison used by the Maravi for their arrows, it is said +to cause mortification. + +One of the wonders usually told of us in this upland region is that we +sleep without fire. The boys' blankets suffice for warmth during the +night, when the thermometer sinks to 64°-60°, but no one else has +covering sufficient; some huts in process of building here show that a +thick coating of plaster is put on outside the roof before the grass +thatch is applied; not a chink is left for the admission of air. + +Ohitikola was absent from Paritala when we arrived on some _milando_ +or other. These _milandos_ are the business of their lives. They are +like petty lawsuits; if one trespasses on his neighbour's rights in +any way it is a _milando_, and the headmen of all the villages about +are called on to settle it. Women are a fruitful source of _milando_. +A few ears of Indian corn had been taken by a person, and Chitikola +had been called a full day's journey off to settle this _milando_. He +administered _Muavé_[33] and the person vomited, therefore innocence +was clearly established! He came in the evening of the 21st footsore +and tired, and at once gave us some beer. This perpetual reference to +food and drink is natural, inasmuch as it is the most important point +in our intercourse. While the chief was absent we got nothing; the +queen even begged a little meat for her child, who was recovering from +an attack of small-pox. There being no shops we had to sit still +without food. I took observations for longitude, and whiled away the +time by calculating the lunars. Next day the chief gave us a goat +cooked whole and plenty of porridge: I noticed that he too had the +Assyrian type of face. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[25] Dr. Livingstone's description of the "Sponge" will stand the +reader in good stead when he comes to the constant mention of these +obstructions in the later travels towards the north.--ED. + +[26] So named when Dr. Livingstone, Dr. Kirk, and Mr. Charles +Livingstone, discovered Lake Nyassa together. + +[27] The sheep are of the black-haired variety: their tails grow to an +enormous size. A rain which came from Nunkajowa, a Waiyau chief, on a +former occasion, was found to have a tail weighing 11 lbs.; but for +the journey, and two or three days short commons, an extra 2 or 3 lbs. +of fat Ťwould have been on it.--ED. + +[28] This complaint has not been reported as an African disease +before; it probably clings to the higher levels.--ED. + +[29] A fine fibre derived from the shoots of a shrub (_Securidaca +Longipedunculata_). + +[30] Several superstitions of this nature seem to point to a remnant +of the old heathen ritual, and the worship of gods in mountain groves. + +[31] Hemp = bangé is smoked throughout Central Africa, and if used in +excess produces partial imbecility.--ED. + +[32] The Hopo is a funnel-shaped fence which encloses a considerable +tract of country: a "drive" is organised, and animals of all +descriptions are urged on till they become jammed together in the neck +of the hopo, where they are speared to death or else destroyed in a +number of pitfalls placed there for the purpose. + +[33] The ordeal poison. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + Progress northwards. An African forest. Destruction by Mazitu. + Native salutations. A disagreeable chief. On the watershed + between the Lake and the Loangwa River. Extensive iron-workings. + An old Nimrod. The Bua Eiver. Lovely scenery. Difficulties of + transport. Chilobé. An African Pythoness. Enlists two Waiyou + bearers. Ill. The Chitella bean. Rains set in. Arrives at the + Loangwa. + + +We started with Chitikola as our guide on the 22nd of October, and he +led us away westwards across the Lilongwé River, then turned north +till we came to a village called Mashumba, the headman of which was +the only chief who begged anything except medicine, and he got less +than we were in the habit of giving in consequence: we give a cloth +usually, and clothing being very scarce this is considered +munificent.[34] + +We had the Zalanyama range on our left, and our course was generally +north, but we had to go in the direction of the villages which were on +friendly terms with our guides, and sometimes we went but a little +way, as they studied to make the days as short as possible. The +headman of the last village, Chitoku, was with us, and he took us to a +village of smiths, four furnaces and one smithy being at work. We +crossed the Chiniambo, a strong river coming from Zalanyama and +flowing into the Mirongwé, which again goes into Lintipé. The country +near the hills becomes covered with forest, the trees are chiefly +Masuko Mochenga (the gum-copal tree), the bark-cloth tree and +rhododendrons. The heath known at the Cape as _Rhinoster bosch_ occurs +frequently, and occasionally we have thorny acacias. The grass is +short, but there is plenty of it. + +_24th October, 1866._--Our guide, Mpanda, led us through the forest by +what he meant to be a short cut to Chimuna's. We came on a herd of +about fifteen elephants, and many trees laid down by these animals: +they seem to relish the roots of some kinds, and spend a good deal of +time digging them up; they chew woody roots and branches as thick as +the handle of a spade. Many buffaloes feed here, and we viewed a herd +of elands; they kept out of bow-shot only: a herd of the baama or +hartebeest stood at 200 paces, and one was shot. + +While all were rejoicing over the meat we got news, from the +inhabitants of a large village in full flight, that the Mazitu were +out on a foray. While roasting and eating meat I went forward with +Mpanda to get men from Chimuna to carry the rest, but was soon +recalled. Another crowd were also in full retreat; the people were +running straight to the Zalanyama range regardless of their feet, +making a path for themselves through the forest; they had escaped from +the Mazitu that morning; "they saw them!" Mpanda's people wished to +leave and go to look after their own village, but we persuaded them, +on pain of a _milando_, to take us to the nearest village, that was at +the bottom of Zalanyama proper, and we took the spoor of the +fugitives. The hard grass with stalks nearly as thick as quills must +have hurt their feet sorely, but what of that in comparison with dear +life! We meant to take our stand on the hill and defend our property +in case of the Mazitu coming near; and we should, in the event of +being successful, be a defence to the fugitives who crowded up its +rocky sides, but next morning we heard that the enemy had gone to the +south. Had we gone forward, as we intended, to search for men to +carry the meat we should have met the marauders, for the men of the +second party of villagers had remained behind guarding their village +till the Mazitu arrived, and they told us what a near escape I had had +from walking into their power. + +_25th October, 1866._--Came along northwards to Chimuna's town, a +large one of Chipéta with many villages around. Our path led through +the forest, and as we emerged into the open strath in which the +villages lie, we saw the large anthills, each the size of the end of a +one-storied cottage, covered with men on guard watching for the +Mazitu. + +A long line of villagers were just arriving from the south, and we +could see at some low hills in that direction the smoke arising from +the burning settlements. None but men were present, the women and the +chief were at the mountain called Pambé; all were fully armed with +their long bows, some flat in the bow, others round, and it was common +to have the quiver on the back, and a bunch of feathers stuck in the +hair like those in our Lancers' shakos. But they remained not to +fight, but to watch their homes and stores of grain from robbers +amongst their own people in case no Mazitu came! They gave a good hut, +and sent off at once to let the chief at Pambé know of our arrival. We +heard the cocks crowing up there in the mountain as we passed in the +morning. Chimuna came in the evening, and begged me to remain a day in +his village, Pamaloa, as he was the greatest chief the Chipéta had. I +told him all wished the same thing, and if I listened to each chief we +should never get on, and the rains were near, but we had to stay over +with him. + +_26th October, 1866._--All the people came down to-day from Pambé, and +crowded to see the strangers. They know very little beyond their own +affairs, though these require a good deal of knowledge, and we should +be sorely put about if, without their skill, we had to maintain an +existence here. Their furnaces are rather bottle shaped, and about +seven feet high by three broad. One toothless patriarch had heard of +books and umbrellas, but had never seen either. The oldest inhabitant +had never travelled far from the spot in which he was born, yet he has +a good knowledge of soils and agriculture, hut-building, +basket-making, pottery, and the manufacture of bark-cloth and skins +for clothing, as also making of nets, traps, and cordage. + +Chimuna had a most ungainly countenance, yet did well enough: he was +very thankful for a blister on his loins to ease rheumatic pains, and +presented a huge basket of porridge before starting, with a fowl, and +asked me to fire a gun that the Mazitu might hear and know that armed +men were here. They all say that these marauders flee from fire-arms, +so I think that they are not Zulus at all, though adopting some of +their ways. + +In going on to Mapuio's we passed several large villages, each +surrounded by the usual euphorbia hedge, and having large trees for +shade. We are on & level, or rather gently amdulating country, rather +bare of trees. At the junctions of these earthen waves we have always +an oozing bog, this often occurs in the slope down the trough of this +terrestrial sea; bushes are common, and of the kind which were cut +down as trees. Yellow haematite is very abundant, but the other rocks +scarcely appear in the distance; we have mountains both on the east +and west. + +On arriving at Mapuio's village, he was, as often happens, invisible, +but he sent us a calabash of fresh-made beer, which is very +refreshing, gave us a hut, and promised to cook for us in the evening. +We have to employ five or six carriers, and they rule the length of +the day's march. Those from Chimuna's village growled at the cubit of +calico with which we paid them, but a few beads pleased them +perfectly, and we parted good friends. It is not likely I shall ever +see them again, but I always like to please them, because it is right +to consider their desires. Is that not what is meant in "Blessed is he +that considereth the poor"? There is a great deal of good in these +poor people. In cases of _milando_ they rely on the most distant +relations and connections to plead their cause, and seldom are they +disappointed, though time at certain seasons, as for instance at +present, is felt by all to be precious. Every man appears with hoe or +axe on shoulder, and the people often only sit down as we pass and +gaze at us till we are out of sight. + +[Illustration: Women's Teeth hollowed.] + +Many of the men have large slits in the lobe of the ear, and they have +their distinctive tribal tattoo. The women indulge in this painful +luxury more than the men, probably because they have very few +ornaments. The two central front teeth are hollowed at the cutting +edge. Many have quite the Grecian facial angle. Mapuio has thin legs +and quite a European face. Delicate features and limbs are common, and +the spur-heel is as scarce as among Europeans; small feet and hands +are the rule. + +Clapping the hands in various ways is the polite way of saying "Allow +me," "I beg pardon," "Permit me to pass," "Thanks," it is resorted to +in respectful introduction and leave-taking, and also is equivalent to +"Hear hear." When inferiors are called they respond by two brisk claps +of the hands, meaning "I am coming." They are very punctilious amongst +each other. A large ivory bracelet marks the headman of a village; +there is nothing else to show differences of rank. + +_28th October, 1866._--We spent Sunday at Mapuio's and had a long talk +with him; his country is in a poor state from the continual incursions +of the Mazitu, who are wholly unchecked. + +_29th October, 1866._--We marched westwards to Makosa's village, and +could not go further, as the next stage is long and through an +ill-peopled country. The morning was lovely, the whole country bathed +in bright sunlight, and not a breath of air disturbed the smoke as it +slowly curled up from the heaps of burning weeds, which the native +agriculturist wisely destroys. The people generally were busy hoeing +in the cool of the day. One old man in a village where we rested had +trained the little hair he had left into a tail, which, well plastered +with fat, he had bent on itself and laid flat on his crown; another +was carefully paring a stick for stirring the porridge, and others +were enjoying the cool shade of the wild fig-trees which are always +planted at villages. It is a sacred tree all over Africa and India, +and the tender roots which drop down towards the ground are used as +medicine--a universal remedy. Can it be a tradition of its being like +the tree of life, which Archbishop Whately conjectures may have been +used in Paradise to render man immortal? One kind of fig-tree is often +seen hacked all over to get the sap, which is used as bird-lime; +bark-cloth is made of it too. I like to see the men weaving or +spinning, or reclining under these glorious canopies, as much as I +love to see our more civilized people lolling on their sofas or +ottomans. + +The first rain--a thunder shower--fell in the afternoon, air in shade +before it 92°; wet bulb 74°. At noon the soil in the sun was 140°, +perhaps more, but I was afraid of bursting the thermometer, as it was +graduated only a few degrees above that. This rain happened at the +same time that the sun was directly overhead on his way south; it was +but a quarter of an inch, but its effect was to deprive us of all +chance of getting the five carriers we needed, all were off to their +gardens to commit the precious seed to the soil. We got three, but no +one else would come, so we have to remain here over to-day (30th +October). + +_30th October, 1866._--The black traders come from Tette to this +country to buy slaves, and as a consequence here we come to bugs +again, which we left when we passed the Arab slave-traders' beat. + +_31st October, 1866._--We proceed westwards, and a little south +through a country covered with forest trees, thickly planted, but +small, generally of bark-cloth and gum-copal trees, masukos, +rhododendrons, and a few acacias. At one place we saw ten wild hogs in +a group, but no other animal, though marks of elephants, buffaloes, +and other animals having been about in the wet season were very +abundant. The first few miles were rather more scant of water than +usual, but we came to the Leué, a fine little stream with plenty of +water sand from 20 to 30 yards wide; it is said by the people to flow +away westwards into the Loangwa. + +_1st November 1866._--In the evening we made the Chigumokiré, a nice +rivulet, where we slept, and the next morning we proceeded to Kangené, +whose village is situated on a mass of mountains, and to reach which +we made more southing than we wished. Our appearance on the ascent of +the hill caused alarm, and we were desired to wait till our spokesman +had explained the unusual phenomenon of a white man. + +This kept us waiting in the hot sun among heated rocks, and the chief, +being a great ugly public-house-keeper looking person, excused his +incivility by saying that his brother had been killed by the Mazitu, +and he was afraid that we were of the same tribe. On asking if Mazitu +wore clothes like us he told some untruths, and, what has been an +unusual thing, began to beg powder and other things. I told him how +other chiefs had treated us, which made him ashamed. He represented +the country in front to the N.W. to be quite impassable from want of +food: the Mazitu had stripped it of all provisions, and the people +were living on what wild fruits they could pick up. + +_2nd November, 1866._--Kangené is very disagreeable naturally, and as +we have to employ five men as carriers, we are in his power. + +We can scarcely enter into the feelings of those who are harried by +marauders. Like Scotland in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries +harassed by Highland Celts on one side and by English Marchmen on the +other, and thus kept in the rearward of civilisation, these people +have rest neither for many days nor for few. When they fill their +garners they can seldom reckon on eating the grain, for the Mazitu +come when the harvest is over and catch as many able-bodied young +persons as they can to carry away the corn. Thus it was in Scotland so +far as security for life and property was concerned; but the Scotch +were apt pupils of more fortunate nations. To change of country they +were as indifferent as the Romans of the olden times; they were always +welcome in France, either as pilgrims, scholars, merchants, or +soldiers; but the African is different. If let alone the African's +mode of life is rather enjoyable; he loves agriculture, and land is to +be had anywhere. He knows nothing of other countries, but he has +imbibed the idea of property in man. This Kangené told me that he +would like to give me a slave to look after my goats: I believe he +would rather give a slave than a goat! + +We were detained by the illness of Simon for four days. When he +recovered we proposed to the headman to start with five of his men, +and he agreed to let us have them; but having called them together +such an enormous demand was made for wages, and in advance, that on +the 7th of November we took seven loads forward through a level +uninhabited country generally covered with small trees, slept there, +and on the morning of the 8th, after leaving two men at our depôt, +came back, and took the remaining five loads. + +Kangené was disagreeable to the last. He asked where we had gone, +and, having described the turning point as near the hill Chimbimbé, he +complimented us on going so far, and then sent an offer of three men; +but I preferred not to have those who would have been spies unless he +could give five and take on all the loads. He said that he would find +the number, and after detaining us some hours brought two, one of +whom, primed with beer, babbled out that he was afraid of being killed +by us in front. I asked whom we had killed behind, and moved off. The +headman is very childish, does women's work--cooking and pounding; and +in all cases of that kind the people take after their leader. The +chiefs have scarcely any power unless they are men of energy; they +have to court the people rather than be courted. We came much further +back on our way from Mapuio's than we liked; in fact, our course is +like that of a vessel baffled with foul winds: this is mainly owing to +being obliged to avoid places stripped of provisions or suffering this +spoliation. The people, too, can give no information about others at a +distance from their own abodes. Even the smiths, who are a most +plodding set of workers, are as ignorant as the others: they supply +the surrounding villages with hoes and knives, and, combining +agriculture with handicraft, pass through life. An intelligent smith +came as our guide from Chimbimbé Hill on the 7th, and did not know a +range of mountains about twenty miles off: "it was too far off for him +to know the name." + +_9th November, 1866._--The country over which we actually travel is +level and elevated, but there are mountains all about, which when put +on the map make it appear to be a mountainous region. We are on the +watershed, apparently between the Loangwa of Zumbo on the west, and +the Lake on the east. The Leué or Leuia is said by the people to flow +into the Loangwa. The Chigumokiré coming from the north in front, +eastward of Irongwé (the same mountains on which Kangené skulks out of +sight of Mazitu), flows into the Leué, and north of that we have the +Mando, a little stream, flowing into the Bua. The rivulets on the west +flow in deep defiles, and the elevation on which we travel makes it +certain that no water can come from the lower lands on the west. It +seems that the Portuguese in travelling to Casembe did not inquire of +the people where the streams they crossed went, for they are often +wrongly put, and indicate the direction only in which they appeared to +be flowing at their crossing places. The natives have a good idea +generally of the rivers into which the streams flow, though they are +very deficient in information as to the condition of the people that +live on their banks. Some of the Portuguese questions must have been +asked through slaves, who would show no hesitation in answering. +Maxinga, or Machinga, means "mountains" only; once or twice it is put +down Saxa de Maxinga, or Machinga, or Mcanga, which translated from +the native tongue means "rocks of mountains, or mountains of rocks." + +_10th November, 1866._--We found the people on the Mando to be Chawa +or Ajawa, but not of the Waiyau race: they are Manganja, and this is a +village of smiths. We got five men readily to go back and bring up our +loads; and the sound of the hammer is constant, showing a great deal +of industry. They combine agriculture, and hunting with nets, with +their handicraft. + +A herd of buffaloes came near the village, and I went and shot one, +thus procuring a supply of meat for the whole party and villagers too. +The hammer which we hear from dawn till sunset is a large stone, bound +with the strong inner bark of a tree, and loops left which form +handles. Two pieces of bark form the tongs, and a big stone sunk into +the ground the anvil. They make several hoes in a day, and the metal +is very good; it is all from yellow haematite, which abounds all over +this part of the country; the bellows consist of two goatskins with +sticks at the open ends, which are opened and shut at every blast. + +[Illustration: Forging Hoes.] + +_13th November, 1866._--A lion came last night and gave a growl or two +on finding he could not get our meat: a man had lent us a hunting net +to protect it and us from intruders of this sort. The people kept up a +shouting for hours afterwards, in order to keep him away by the human +voice. + +We might have gone on, but I had a galled heel from new shoes. Wild +figs are rather nice when quite ripe. + +_14th November, 1866._--We marched northwards round the end of Chisia +Hill, and remained for the night at a blacksmith's, or rather +founder's village; the two occupations of founder and smith are +always united, and boys taught to be smiths in Europe or India would +find themselves useless if unable to smelt the ore. A good portion of +the trees of the country have been cut down for charcoal, and those +which now spring up are small; certain fruit trees alone are left. The +long slopes on the undulating country, clothed with fresh foliage, +look very beautiful. The young trees alternate with patches of yellow +grass not yet burned; the hills are covered with a thick mantle of +small green trees with, as usual, large ones at intervals. The people +at Kalumbi, on the Mando (where we spent four days), had once a +stockade of wild fig _(Ficus Indica)_ and euphorbia round their +village, which has a running rill on each side of it; but the trees +which enabled them to withstand a siege by Mazitu fell before +elephants and buffaloes during a temporary absence of the villagers; +the remains of the stockade are all around it yet. Lions sometimes +enter huts by breaking through the roof: elephants certainly do, for +we saw a roof destroyed by one; the only chance for the inmates is to +drive a spear into the belly of the beast while so engaged. + +A man came and reported the Mazitu to be at Chanyandula's village, +where we are going. The headman advised remaining at his village till +we saw whether they came this way or went by another path. The women +were sent away, but the men went on with their employments; two +proceeded with the building of a furnace on an anthill, where they are +almost always placed, and they keep a look-out while working. We have +the protection of an all-embracing Providence, and trust that He, +whose care of His people Ťxceeds all that our utmost self-love can +attain, will shield us and make our way prosperous. + +_16th November, 1866._--An elephant came near enough last night to +scream at us, but passed on, warned, perhaps, by the shouting of the +villagers not to meddle with man. No Mazitu having come, we marched on +and crossed the Bua, eight yards wide and knee deep. It rises in the +northern hills a little beyond Kanyindula's village, winds round his +mountains, and away to the east. The scenery among the mountains is +very lovely: they are covered with a close mantle of green, with here +and there red and light-coloured patches, showing where grass has been +burned off recently and the red clay soil is exposed; the lighter +portions are unburned grass or rocks. Large trees are here more +numerous, and give an agreeable change of contour to the valleys and +ridges of the hills; the boughs of many still retain a tinge of red +from young leaves. We came to the Bua again before reaching Kanyenjé, +as Kanyindula's place is called. The iron trade must have been carried +on for an immense time in the country, for one cannot go a quarter of +a mile without meeting pieces of slag and broken pots, calcined pipes, +and fragments of the furnaces, which are converted by the fire into +brick. It is curious that the large stone sledge-hammers now in use +are not called by the name stone-hammers, but by a distinct word, +"kama:" nyundo is one made of iron. + +When we arrived at Kanyenjé, Kanyindula was out collecting charcoal. +He sent a party of men to ask if we should remain next day: an old, +unintellectual-looking man was among the number sent, who had +twenty-seven rings of elephant's skin on his arm, all killed by +himself by the spear alone: he had given up fighting elephants since +the Mazitu came, whom we heard had passed away to the south-east of +this place, taking all the crops of last year, and the chief alone has +food. He gave us some, which was very acceptable, as we got none at +the two villages south of this. Kanyindula came himself in the +evening, an active, stern-looking man, but we got on very well with +him. + +The people say that they were taught to smelt iron by Chisumpi, which +is the name of Mulungu (God), and that they came from Lake Nyassa +originally; if so, they are greatly inferior to the Manganja on the +Lake in pottery, for the fragments, as well as modern whole vessels, +are very coarse; the ornamentation is omitted or merely dots. They +never heard of aërolites, but know hail. + +I notice here that the tree Mfu, or Mö, having sweet-scented leaves, +yields an edible plum in clusters. Bua-bwa is another edible +fruit-tree with palmated leaves. + +Mbéu is a climbing, arboraceous plant, and yields a very pleasant +fruit, which tastes like gooseberries: its seeds are very minute. + +_18th and 19th November, 1866._--Rain fell heavily yesterday +afternoon, and was very threatening to-day; we remain to sew a calico +tent. + +_20th November, 1866._--Kanyindula came with three carriers this +morning instead of five, and joined them in demanding prepayment: it +was natural for him to side with them, as they have more power than he +has, in fact, the chiefs in these parts all court their people, and he +could feel more interest in them than in an entire stranger whom he +might never see again: however, we came on without his people, leaving +two to guard the loads. + +About four miles up the valley we came to a village named Kanyenjeré +Mponda, at the fountain-eye of the Bua, and thence sent men back for +the loads, while we had the shelter of good huts during a heavy +thunder-shower, and made us willing to remain all night. The valley is +lovely in the extreme. The mountains on each side are gently rounded, +and, as usual, covered over with tree foliage, except where the red +soil is exposed by recent grass-burnings. Quartz rocks jut out, and +much drift of that material has been carried down by the gullies into +the bottom. These gullies being in compact clay, the water has but +little power of erosion, so they are worn deep but narrow. Some +fragments of titaniferous iron ore, with haematite changed by heat, +and magnetic, lay in the gully, which had worn itself a channel on +the north side of the village. The Bua, like most African streams +whose sources I have seen, rises in an oozing boggy spot. Another +stream, the Tembwé, rises near the same spot, and flows N.W. into, the +Loangwa. We saw Shuaré palms in its bed. + +_21st November, 1866._--We left Bua fountain, lat. 13° 40' south, and +made a short march to Mokatoba, a stockaded village, where the people +refused to admit us till the headman, came. They have a little food +here, and sold us some. We have been on rather short commons for some +time, and this made our detention agreeable. We rose a little in +altitude after leaving this morning, then, though in the same valley, +made a little descent towards the N.N.W. High winds came driving over +the eastern range, which is called Mchinjé, and bring large masses of +clouds, which are the rain-givers. They seem to come from the +south-east. The scenery of the valley is lovely and rich in the +extreme. All the foliage is fresh washed and clean; young herbage is +bursting through the ground; the air is deliciously cool, and the +birds are singing joyfully: one, called Mzié, is a good songster, with +a loud melodious voice. Large game abounds, but we do not meet with +it. + +We are making our way slowly to the north, where food is said to be +abundant. I divided about 50 lbs. of powder among the people of my +following to shoot with, and buy goats or other food as we could. This +reduces our extra loads to three--four just now, Simon being sick +again. He rubbed goat's-fat on a blistered surface, and caused an +eruption of pimples. + +_Mem._--The people assent by lifting up the head instead of nodding it +down as we do; deaf mutes are said to do the same. + +_22nd November, 1866._--Leaving Mokatoba village, and proceeding down +the valley, which on the north is shut up apparently by a mountain +called Kokwé, we crossed the Kasamba, about two miles from Mokatoba, +and yet found it, though so near its source, four yards wide, and knee +deep. Its source is about a mile above Mokatoba, in the same valley, +with the Bua and Tembwé. We were told that elephants were near, and we +saw where they had been an hour before; but after seeking about could +not find them. An old man, in the deep defile between Kokwé and Yasika +Mountains, pointed to the latter, and said, "Elephants! why, there +they are. Elephants, or tusks, walking on foot are never absent;" but +though we were eager for flesh, we could not give him credit, and went +down the defile which gives rise to the Sandili River: where we +crossed it in the defile, it was a mere rill, having large trees along +its banks, yet it is said to go to the Loangwa of Zumbo, N.W. or +N.N.W. We were now in fact upon the slope which inclines to that +river, and made a rapid descent in altitude. We reached Silubi's +village, on the base of a rocky detached hill. No food to be had; all +taken by Mazitu, so Silubi gave me some Masuko fruit instead. They +find that they can keep the Mazitu off by going up a rocky eminence, +and hurling stones and arrows down on the invaders: they can defend +themselves also by stockades, and these are becoming very general. + +On leaving Silubi's village, we went to a range of hills, and after +passing through found that we had a comparatively level country on the +north: it would be called a well-wooded country if we looked at it +only from a distance. It is formed into long ridges, all green and +wooded; but clumps of large trees, where villages have been, or are +still situated, show that the sylvan foliage around and over the whole +country is that of mere hop-poles. The whole of this upland region +might be called woody, if we bear in mind that where the population is +dense, and has been long undisturbed, the trees are cut down to the +size of low bush. Large districts are kept to about the size of +hop-poles, growing on pollards three or four feet from the ground, by +charcoal burners, who, in all instances, are smiths too. + +On reaching Zeoré's village, on the Lokuzhwa, we found it stockaded, +and stagnant pools round three sides of it. The Mazitu had come, +pillaged all the surrounding villages, looked at this, and then went +away; so the people had food to sell. They here call themselves +Echéwa, and have a different marking from the Atumboka. The men have +the hair dressed as if a number of the hairs of elephants' tails were +stuck around the head: the women wear a small lip-ring, and a straw or +piece of stick in the lower lip, which dangles down about level with +the lower edge of the chin: their clothing in front is very scanty. +The men know nothing of distant places, the Manganja being a very +stay-at-home people. The stockades are crowded with huts, and the +children have but small room to play in the narrow spaces between. + +_25th November, 1866._--Sunday at Zeoré's. The villagers thought we +prayed for rain, which was much needed. The cracks in the soil have +not yet come together by the Ťwelling of soil produced by moisture. I +disabused their minds about rain-making prayers, and found the headman +intelligent. + +I did not intend to notice the Lokuzhwa, it is such a contemptible +little rill, and not at present running; but in going to our next +point, Mpandé's village, we go along its valley, and cross it several +times, as it makes for the Loangwa in the north. The valley is of rich +dark red loam, and so many lilies of the Amaryllis kind have +established themselves as completely to mask the colour of the soil. +They form a covering of pure white where the land has been cleared by +the hoe. As we go along this valley to the Loangwa, we descend in +altitude. It is said to rise at "Nombé rumé," as we formerly heard. + +_27th November, 1866._--Zeoré's people would not carry without +prepayment, so we left our extra loads as usual and went on, sending +men back for them: these, however, did not come till 27th, and then +two of my men got fever. I groan in spirit, and do not know how to +make our gear into nine loads only. It is the knowledge that we shall +be detained, some two or three months during the heavy rains that +makes me cleave to it as means of support. + +Advantage has been taken by the people, of spots where the Lokuzhwa +goes round three parts of a circle, to erect their stockaded villages. +This is the case here, and the water, being stagnant, engenders +disease. The country abounds in a fine light blue flowering perennial +pea, which the people make use of as a relish. At present the blossoms +only are collected and boiled. On inquiring the name, _chilóbé_, the +men asked me if we had none in our country. On replying in the +negative, they looked with pity on us: "What a wretched, country not +to have chilóbé." It is on the highlands above; we never saw it +elsewhere! Another species of pea _(Chilobé Weza)_, with reddish +flowers, is eaten in the same way; but it has spread but little in +comparison. It is worth remarking that porridge of maize or sorghum is +never offered without some pulse, beans, or bean leaves, or flowers, +they seem to feel the need of it, or of pulse, which is richer in +flesh-formers than the porridge. + +Last night a loud clapping of hands by the men was followed by several +half-suppressed screams by a woman. They were quite _eldritch_, as if +she could not get them out. Then succeeded a lot of utterances as if +she were in ecstasy, to which a man responded, "Moio, moio." The +utterances, so far as I could catch, were in five-syllable +snatches--abrupt and laboured. I wonder if this "bubbling or boiling +over" has been preserved as the form in which the true prophets of old +gave forth their "burdens"? One sentence, frequently repeated towards +the close of the effusion, was "_linyama uta_," "flesh of the bow," +showing that the Pythoness loved venison killed by the bow. The people +applauded, and attended, hoping, I suppose, that rain would follow her +efforts. Next day she was duly honoured by drumming and dancing.[35] + +Prevalent beliefs seem to be persistent in certain tribes. That +strange idea of property in man that permits him to be sold to another +is among the Arabs, Manganja, Makoa, Waiyau, but not among Kaffirs or +Zulus, and Bechuanas. If we exclude the Arabs, two families of +Africans alone are slavers on the east side of the Continent. + +_30th November, 1866._--We march to Chilunda's or Embora's, still on +the Lokuzhwa, now a sand-stream about twenty yards wide, with pools in +its bed; its course is pretty much north or N.N.W. We are now near the +Loangwa country, covered with a dense dwarf forest, and the people +collected in stockades. This village is on a tongue of land (between +Lokuzhwa and another sluggish rivulet), chosen for its strength. It is +close to a hill named Chipemba, and there are ranges of hills both +east and west in the distance. Embora came to visit us soon after we +arrived--a tall man with a Yankee face. He was very much tickled when +asked if he were a Motumboka. After indulging in laughter at the idea +of being one of such a small tribe of Manganja, he said proudly, "That +he belonged to the Echéwa, who inhabited all the country to which I +was going." They are generally smiths; a mass of iron had just been +brought in to him from some outlying furnaces. It is made into hoes, +which are sold for native cloths down the Loangwa. + +_3rd December, 1866._--March through a hilly country covered with +dwarf forest to Kandé's village, still on the Lokuzhwa. We made some +westing. The village was surrounded by a dense hedge of bamboo and a +species of bushy fig that loves edges of water-bearing streams: it is +not found where the moisture is not perennial. Kandé is a fine tall +smith; I asked him if he knew his antecedents; he said he had been +bought by Babisa at Chipéta, and left at Chilunda's, and therefore +belonged to no one. Two Waiyau now volunteered to go on with us, and +as they declared their masters were killed by the Mazitu, and Kandé +seemed to confirm them, we let them join. In general, runaway slaves +are bad characters, but these two seem good men, and we want them to +fill up our complement: another volunteer we employ as goatherd. + +A continuous tap-tapping in the villages shows that bark cloth is +being made. The bark, on being removed from the-tree, is steeped in +water, or in a black muddy hole, till the outer of the two inner barks +can be separated, then commences the tapping with a mallet to separate +and soften the fibres. The head of this is often of ebony, with the +face cut into small furrows, which, without breaking, separate and +soften the fibres. + +[Illustration.] + +_4th December, 1866._--Marched westwards, over a hilly, dwarf +forest-covered country: as we advanced, trees increased in size, but +no people inhabited it; we spent a miserable night at Katétté, wetted +by a heavy thunder-shower, which lasted a good while. Morning _(5th +December_) muggy, clouded all over, and rolling thunder in distance. +Went three hours with, for a wonder, no water, but made westing +chiefly, and got on to the Lokuzhwa again: all the people are +collected on it. + +_6th December, 1866._--Too ill to march. + +_7th December, 1866._--Went on, and passed Mesumbé's village, also +protected by bamboos, and came to the hill Mparawé, with a village +perched on its northern base and well up its sides. The Babisa have +begun to imitate the Mazitu by attacking and plundering Manganja +villages. Muasi's brother was so attacked, and now is here and eager +to attack in return. In various villages we have observed miniature +huts, about two feet high, very neatly thatched and plastered, here we +noticed them in dozens. On inquiring, we were told that when a child +or relative dies one is made, and when any pleasant food is cooked or +beer brewed, a little is placed in the tiny hut for the departed soul, +which is believed to enjoy it. + +The Lokuzhwa is here some fifty yards wide, and running. Numerous +large pitholes in the fine-grained schist in its bed show that much +water has flowed in it. + +_8th December, 1866._--A kind of bean called "chitetta" is eaten here, +it is an old acquaintance in the Bechuana country, where it is called +"mositsané," and is a mere plant; here it becomes a tree, from fifteen +to twenty feet high. The root is used for tanning; the bean is +pounded, and then put into a sieve of bark cloth to extract, by +repeated washings, the excessively astringent matter it contains. +Where the people have plenty of water, as here, it is used copiously +in various processes, among Bechuanas it is scarce, and its many uses +unknown: the pod becomes from fifteen to eighteen inches long, and an +inch in diameter. + +_9th December, 1866._--A poor child, whose mother had died, was +unprovided for; no one not a relative will nurse another's child. It +called out piteously for its mother by name, and the women (like the +servants in the case of the poet Cowper when a child), said, "She is +coming." I gave it a piece of bread, but it was too far gone, and is +dead to-day. + +An alarm of Mazitu sent all the villagers up the sides of Mparawé +this morning. The affair was a chase of a hyaena, but everything is +Mazitu! The Babisa came here, but were surrounded and nearly all cut +off. Muasi was so eager to be off with a party to return the attack on +the Mazitu, that, when deputed by the headman to give us a guide, he +got the man to turn at the first village, so we had to go on without +guides, and made about due north. + +_11th December, 1866._--We are now detained in the forest, at a place +called Chondé Forest, by set-in rains. It rains every day, and +generally in the afternoon; but the country is not wetted till the +"set-in" rains commence; the cracks in the soil then fill up and +everything rushes up with astonishing rapidity; the grass is quite +crisp and soft. After the fine-grained schist, we came on granite with +large flakes of talc in it. This forest is of good-sized trees, many +of them mopané. The birds now make much melody and noise--all intent +on building. + +_12th December, 1866._--Across an undulating forest country north we +got a man to show us the way, if a pathless forest can so be called. +We used a game-path as long as it ran north, but left it when it +deviated, and rested under a baobab-tree with a marabou's nest--a +bundle of sticks on a branch; the young ones uttered a hard chuck, +chuck, when the old ones flew over them. A sun-bird, with bright +scarlet throat and breast, had its nest on another branch, it was +formed like the weaver's nest, but without a tube. I observed the dam +picking out insects from the bark and leaves of the baobab, keeping on +the wing the while: it would thus appear to be insectivorous as well +as a honey-bibber. Much spoor of elands, zebras, gnus, kamas, pallahs, +buffaloes, reed-bucks, with tsetse, their parasites. + +_13th December, 1866._--Reached the Tokosusi, which is said to rise at +Nombé Rumé, about twenty yards wide and knee deep, swollen by the +rains: it had left a cake of black tenacious mud on its banks. Here I +got a pallah antelope, and a very strange flower called "katendé," +which was a whorl of seventy-two flowers sprung from a flat, round +root; but it cannot be described. Our guide would have crossed the +Tokosusi, which was running north-west to join the Loangwa, and then +gone to that river; but always when we have any difficulty the +"lazies" exhibit themselves. We had no grain; and three remained +behind spending four hours at what we did in an hour and a quarter. +Our guide became tired and turned, not before securing another; but he +would not go over the Loangwa; no one likes to go out of his own +country: he would go westwards to Maranda's, and nowhere else. A +"set-in" rain came on after dark, and we went on through slush, the +trees sending down heavier drops than the showers as we neared the +Loangwa; we forded several deep gullies, all flowing north or +north-west into it. The paths were running with water, and when we +emerged from the large Mopané Forest, we came on the plain of +excessively adhesive mud, on which Maranda's stronghold stands on the +left bank of Loangwa, here a good-sized river. The people were all +afraid of us, and we were mortified to find that food is scarce. The +Mazitu have been here three times, and the fear they have inspired, +though they were successfully repelled, has prevented agricultural +operations from being carried on. + +_Mem._--A flake of reed is often used in surgical operations among the +natives, as being sharper than their knives. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[34] A cloth means two yards of unbleached calico. + +[35] Chuma remembers part of the words of her song to be as follows:-- + +Kowé! kowé! n'andambwi, M'vula léru, korolé ko okwé, Waie, ona, kordi, +mvula! + +He cannot translate it as it is pure Manganja, but with the exception +of the first line--which relates to a little song-bird with a +beautiful note, it is a mere reiteration "rain will surely come +to-day."--ED. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + Crosses the Loangwa. Distressing march. The king-hunter. Great + hunger. Christmas feast necessarily postponed. Loss of goats. + Honey-hunters. A meal at last. The Babisa. The Mazitu again. + Chitembo's. End of 1866. The new year. The northern brim of the + great Loangwa Valley. Accident to chronometers. Meal gives out. + Escape from a Cobra capella. Pushes for the Chambezé. Death of + Chitané. Great pinch for food. Disastrous loss of medicine + chest. Bead currency. Babisa. The Chambezé. Beaches + Chitapangwa's town. Meets Arab traders from Zanzibar. Sends off + letters. Chitapangwa and his people. Complications. + + +_16th December, 1866._--We could get no food at any price on 15th, so +we crossed the Loangwa, and judged it to be from seventy to a hundred +yards wide: it is deep at present, and it must always be so, for some +Atumboka submitted to the Mazitu, and ferried them over and back +again. The river is said to rise in the north; it has alluvial banks +with large forest trees along them, bottom sandy, and great sandbanks +are in it like the Zambesi. No guide would come, so we went on without +one. The "lazies" of the party seized the opportunity of remaining +behind--wandering, as they said, though all the cross paths were +marked.[36] This evening we secured the latitude 12° 40' 48" S., which +would make our crossing place about 12° 45' S. Clouds prevented +observations, as they usually do in the rainy season. + +_17 December, 1866._--We went on through a bushy country without +paths, and struck the Pamazi, a river of sixty yards wide, in steep +banks and in flood, and held on as well as we could through a very +difficult country, the river forcing us north-west: I heard +hippopotami in it. Game is abundant but wild; we shot two poku +antelopes[37] here, called "tsébulas," which drew a hunter to us, who +consented for meat and pay to show us a ford. He said that the Pamazi +rises in a range of mountains we can now see (in general we could see +no high ground during our marches for the last fortnight), we forded +it, thigh deep on one side and breast deep on the other. We made only +about three miles of northing, and found the people on the left bank +uncivil: they would not lend a hut, so we soon put up a tent of +waterproof cloth and branches. + +_18th December, 1866._--As the men grumbled at their feet being +pierced by thorns in the trackless portions we had passed I was +anxious to get a guide, but the only one we could secure would go to +Molenga's only; so I submitted, though this led us east instead of +north. When we arrived we were asked what we wanted, seeing we brought +neither slaves nor ivory: I replied it was much against our will that +we came; but the guide had declared that this was the only way to +Casembe's, our next stage. To get rid of us they gave a guide, and we +set forward northwards. The Mopané Forest is perfectly level, and +after rains the water stands in pools; but during most of the year it +is dry. The trees here were very large, and planted some twenty or +thirty yards apart: as there are no branches on their lower parts +animals see very far. I shot a gnu, but wandered in coming back to the +party, and did not find them till it was getting dark. Many parts of +the plain are thrown up into heaps, of about the size of one's cap +(probably by crabs), which now, being hard, are difficult to walk +over; under the trees it is perfectly smooth. The Mopané-tree +furnishes the iron wood of the Portuguese Pao Ferro: it is pretty to +travel in and look at the bright sunshine of early morning; but the +leaves hang perpendicularly as the sun rises high, and afford little +or no shade through the day,[38] so as the land is clayey, it becomes +hard-baked thereby. + +We observed that the people had placed corn-granaries at +different parts of this forest, and had been careful to leave no +track to them--a provision in case of further visits of Mazitu. +King-hunters[39] abound, and make the air resound with their +stridulous notes, which commence with a sharp, shrill cheep, and then +follows a succession of notes, which resembles a pea in a whistle. +Another bird is particularly conspicuous at present by its chattering +activity, its nest consists of a bundle of fine seed-stalks of grass +hung at the end of a branch, the free ends being left untrimmed, and +no attempt at concealment made. Many other birds are now active, and +so many new notes are heard, that it is probable this is a richer +ornithological region than the Zambesi. Guinea-fowl and francolins are +in abundance, and so indeed are all the other kinds of game, as +zebras, pallahs, gnus. + +_19th December, 1866._--I got a fine male kudu. We have no grain, and +live on meat alone, but I am better off than the men, inasmuch as I +get a little goat's-milk besides. The kudu stood five feet six inches +high; horns, three feet on the straight. + +_20th December, 1866._--Reached Casembe,[40] a miserable hamlet of a +few huts. The people here are very suspicious, and will do nothing but +with a haggle for prepayment; we could get no grain, nor even native +herbs, though we rested a day to try. + +After a short march we came to the Nyamazi, another considerable +rivulet coming from the north to fall into the Loangwa. It has the +same character, of steep alluvial banks, as Pamazi, and about the same +width, but much shallower; loin deep, though somewhat swollen; from +fifty to sixty yards wide. We came to some low hills, of coarse +sandstone, and on crossing these we could see, by looking back, that +for many days we had been travelling over a perfectly level valley, +clothed with a mantle of forest. The barometers had shown no +difference of level from about 1800 feet above the sea. We began our +descent into this great valley when we left the source of the Bua; and +now these low hills, called Ngalé or Ngaloa, though only 100 feet or +so above the level we had left, showed that we had come to the shore +of an ancient lake, which probably was let off when the rent of +Kebra-basa on the Zambesi was made, for we found immense banks of +well-rounded shingle above--or, rather, they may be called mounds of +shingle--all of hard silicious schist with a few pieces of fossil-wood +among them. The gullies reveal a stratum of this well-rounded shingle, +lying on a soft greenish sandstone, which again lies on the coarse +sandstone first observed. This formation is identical with that +observed formerly below the Victoria Falls. We have the mountains +still on our north and north-west (the so-called mountains of Bisa, or +Babisa), and from them the Nyamazi flows, while Pamazi comes round the +end, or what appears to be the end, of the higher portion. _(22nd +December, 1866.)_ Shot a bush-buck; and slept on the left bank of +Nyamazi. + +_23rd December, 1866._--Hunger sent us on; for a meat diet is far from +satisfying: we all felt very weak on it, and soon tired on a march, +but to-day we hurried on to Kavimba, who successfully beat off the +Mazitu. It is very hot, and between three and four hours is a good +day's march. On sitting down to rest before entering the village we +were observed, and all the force of the village issued to kill us as +Mazitu, but when we stood up the mistake was readily perceived, and +the arrows were placed again in their quivers. In the hut four Mazitu +shields show that they did not get it all their own way; they are +miserable imitations of Zulu shields, made of eland and water-buck's +hides, and ill sewn. + +A very small return present was made by Kavimba, and nothing could be +bought except at exorbitant prices. We remained all day on the 24th +haggling and trying to get some grain. He took a fancy to a shirt, and +left it to his wife to bargain for. She got the length of cursing and +swearing, and we bore it, but could get only a small price for it. We +resolved to hold our Christmas some other day, and in a better place. +The women seem ill-regulated here--Kavimba's brother had words with +his spouse, and at the end of every burst of vociferation on both +sides called out, "Bring the Muavi! bring the Muavi!" or ordeal. + +_Christmas-day, 1866._--No one being willing to guide us to Moerwa's, +I hinted to Kavimba that should we see a rhinoceros I would kill it. +He came himself, and led us on where he expected to find these +animals, but we saw only their footsteps. We lost our four goats +somewhere--stolen or strayed in the pathless forest, we do not know +which, but the loss I felt very keenly, for whatever kind of food we +had, a little milk made all right, and I felt strong and well, but +coarse food hard of digestion without it was very trying. We spent the +26th in searching for them, but all in vain. Kavimba had a boy +carrying two huge elephant spears, with these he attacks that large +animal single-handed. We parted from him, as I thought, good friends, +but a man who volunteered to act as guide saw him in the forest +afterwards, and was counselled by him to leave us as we should not +pay him. This hovering near us after we parted makes me suspect +Kavimba of taking the goats, but I am not certain. The loss affected +me more than I could have imagined. A little indigestible porridge, of +scarcely any taste, is now my fare, and it makes me dream of better. + +_27th December, 1866._--Our guide asked for his cloth to wear on the +way, as it was wet and raining, and his bark cloth was a miserable +covering. I consented, and he bolted on the first opportunity; the +forest being so dense he was soon out of reach of pursuit: he had been +advised to this by Kavimba, and nothing else need have been expected. +We then followed the track of a travelling party of Babisa, but the +grass springs up over the paths, and it was soon lost: the rain had +fallen early in these parts, and the grass was all in seed. In the +afternoon we came to the hills in the north where Nyamazi rises, and +went up the bed of a rivulet for some time, and then ascended out of +the valley. At the bottom of the ascent and in the rivulet the shingle +stratum was sometimes fifty feet thick, then as we ascended we met +mica schist tilted on edge, then grey gneiss, and last an igneous trap +among quartz rocks, with a great deal of bright mica and talc in them. +On resting near the top of the first ascent two honey hunters came to +us. They were using the honey-guide as an aid, the bird came to us as +they arrived, waited quietly during the half-hour they smoked and +chatted, and then went on with them.[41] + +The tsetse flies, which were very numerous at the bottom, came up the +ascent with us, but as we increased our altitude by another thousand +feet they gradually dropped off and left us: only one remained in the +evening, and he seemed out of spirits. Near sunset we encamped by +water on the cool height, and made our shelters with boughs of leafy +trees; mine was rendered perfect by Dr. Stenhouse's invaluable patent +cloth, which is very superior to mackintosh: indeed the india-rubber +cloth is not to be named in the same day with it. + +_28th December, 1866._--Three men, going to hunt bees, came to us as +we were starting and assured us that Moerwa's was near. The first +party had told us the same thing, and so often have we gone long +distances as "_pafupi_" (near), when in reality they were "_patari_" +(far), that we begin to think _pafupi_ means "I wish you to go there," +and _patari_ the reverse. In this case _near_ meant an hour and +three-quarters from our sleeping-place to Moerwa's! + +When we look back from the height to which we have ascended we see a +great plain clothed with dark green forest except at the line of +yellowish grass, where probably the Loangwa flows. On the east and +south-east this plain is bounded at the extreme range of our vision by +a wall of dim blue mountains forty or fifty miles off. The Loangwa is +said to rise in the Chibalé country due north of this Malambwé (in +which district Moerwa's village is situated), and to flow S.E., then +round to where we found it. + +Moerwa came to visit me in my hut, a rather stupid man, though he has +a well-shaped and well-developed forehead, and tried the usual little +arts of getting us to buy all we need here though the prices are +exorbitant. "No people in front, great hunger there." "We must buy +food here and carry it to support us." On asking the names of the next +headman he would not inform me, till I told him to try and speak like +a man; he then told us that the first Lobemba chief was Motuna, and +the next Chafunga. We have nothing, as we saw no animals in our way +hither, and hunger is ill to bear. By giving Moerwa a good large cloth +he was induced to cook a mess of maëre or millet and elephant's +stomach; it was so good to get a full meal that I could have given +him another cloth, and the more so as it was accompanied by a message +that he would cook more next day and in larger quantity. On inquiring +next evening he said "the man had told lies," he had cooked nothing +more: he was prone to lie himself, and was a rather bad specimen of a +chief. + +The Babisa have round bullet heads, snub noses, often high +cheek-bones, an upward slant of the eyes, and look as if they had a +lot of Bushman blood in them, and a good many would pass for Bushmen +or Hottentots. Both Babisa and Waiyau may have a mixture of the race, +which would account for their roving habits. The women have the +fashion of exposing the upper part of the buttocks by letting a very +stiff cloth fall down behind. Their teeth are filed to points, they +wear no lip-ring, and the hair is parted so as to lie in a net at the +back part of the head. The mode of salutation among the men is to lie +down nearly on the back, clapping the hands, and making a rather +inelegant half-kissing sound with the lips. + +_29th December, 1866._--We remain a day at Malambwé, but get nothing +save a little maëre,[42] which grates in the teeth and in the stomach. +To prevent the Mazitu starving them they cultivate small round patches +placed at wide intervals in the forest, with which the country is +covered. The spot, some ten yards or a little more in diameter, is +manured with ashes and planted with this millet and pumpkins, in order +that should Mazitu come they may be unable to carry off the pumpkins, +or gather the millet, the seed of which is very small. They have no +more valour than the other Africans, but more craft, and are much +given to falsehood. They will not answer common questions except by +misstatements, but this may arise in our case from our being in +disfavour, because we will not sell all our goods to them for ivory. + +_30th December, 1866._--Marched for Chitemba's, because it is said he +has not fled from the Mazitu, and therefore has food to spare. While +resting, Moerwa, with all his force of men, women, and dogs, came up, +on his way to hunt elephants. The men were furnished with big spears, +and their dogs are used to engage the animal's attention while they +spear it; the women cook the meat and make huts, and a smith goes with +them to mend any spear that may be broken. + +We pass over level plateaux on which the roads are wisely placed, and +do not feel that we are travelling in a mountainous region. It is all +covered with dense forest, which in many cases is pollarded, from +being cut for bark cloth or for hunting purposes. Masuko fruit +abounds. From the cisalpinae and gum-copal trees bark cloth is made. + +We now come to large masses of haematite, which is often ferruginous: +there is conglomerate too, many quartz pebbles being intermixed. It +seems as if when the lakes existed in the lower lands, the higher +levels gave forth great quantities of water from chalybeate fountains, +which deposited this iron ore. Grey granite or quartz with talc in it +or gneiss lie under the haematite. + +The forest resounds with singing birds, intent on nidification. +Francolins abound, but are wild. "Whip-poor-wills," and another bird, +which has a more laboured treble note and voice--"Oh, oh, oh!" Gay +flowers blush unseen, but the people have a good idea of what is +eatable and what not. I looked at a woman's basket of leaves which she +had collected for supper, and it contained eight or ten kinds, with +mushrooms and orchidaceous flowers. We have a succession of showers +to-day, from N.E. and E.N.E. We are uncertain when we shall come to a +village, as the Babisa will not tell us where they are situated. In +the evening we encamped beside a little rill, and made our shelters, +but we had so little to eat that I dreamed the night long of dinners I +had eaten, and might have been eating. + +I shall make this beautiful land better known, which is an essential +part of the process by which it will become the "pleasant haunts of +men." It is impossible to describe its rich luxuriance, but most of it +is running to waste through the slave-trade and internal wars. + +_31st December, 1866._--When we started this morning after rain, all +the trees and grass dripping, a lion roared, but we did not see him. A +woman had come a long way and built a neat miniature hut in the +burnt-out ruins of her mother's house: the food-offering she placed in +it, and the act of filial piety, no doubt comforted this poor +mourner's heart! + +We arrived at Chitembo's village and found it deserted. The Babisa +dismantle their huts and carry off the thatch to their gardens, where +they live till harvest is over. This fallowing of the framework +destroys many insects, but we observed that wherever Babisa and Arab +slavers go they leave the breed of the domestic bug: it would be well +if that were all the ill they did! Chitembo was working in his garden +when we arrived, but soon came, and gave us the choice of all the +standing huts: he is an old man, much more frank and truthful than our +last headman, and says that Chitapanga is paramount chief of all the +Abemba. + +Three or four women whom we saw performing a rain dance at Moerwa's +were here doing the same; their faces smeared with meal, and axes in +their hands, imitating as well as they could the male voice. I got +some maëre or millet here and a fowl. + +We now end 1866. It has not been so fruitful or useful as I intended. +Will try to do better in 1867, and be better--more gentle and loving; +and may the Almighty, to whom I commit my way, bring my desires to +pass, and prosper me! Let all the sins of '66 be blotted out for +Jesus' sake. + + * * * * * + +_1st January, 1867._--May He who was full of grace and truth impress +His character on mine. Grace--eagerness to show favour; +truth--truthfulness, sincerity, honour--for His mercy's sake. + +We remain to-day at Mbulukuta-Chitembo's district, by the boys' +desire, because it is New Year's day, and also because we can get some +food. + +_2nd and 3rd January, 1867._--Remain on account of a threatened +_set-in_ rain. Bought a senzé _(Aulocaudatus Swindernianus)_, a +rat-looking animal; but I was glad to get anything in the shape of +meat. + +_4th January, 1867._--It is a _set-in_ rain. The boiling-point +thermometer shows an altitude of 3565 feet above the sea. Barometer, +3983 feet ditto. We get a little maëre here, and prefer it to being +drenched and our goods spoiled. We have neither sugar nor salt, so +there are no soluble goods; but cloth and gunpowder get damaged +easily. It is hard fare and scanty; I feel always hungry, and am +constantly dreaming of better food when I should be sleeping. Savoury +viands of former times come vividly up before the imagination, even in +my waking hours; this is rather odd as I am not a dreamer; indeed I +scarcely ever dream but when I am going to be ill or actually so.[43] + +We are on the northern brim (or north-western rather) of the great +Loangwa Valley we lately crossed: the rain coming from the east +strikes it, and is deposited both above and below, while much of the +valley itself is not yet well wetted. Here all the grasses have run up +to seed, and yet they are not more than two feet or so in the +seed-stalks. The pasturage is very fine. The people employ these +continuous or _set-in_ rains for hunting the elephant, which gets +bogged, and sinks in from fifteen to eighteen inches in soft mud, +then even he, the strong one, feels it difficult to escape.[44] + +_5th January, 1867._--Still storm-stayed. We shall be off as soon as +we get a fair day and these heavy rains cease. + +_6th January, 1867._--After service two men came and said that they +were going to Lobemba, and would guide us to Motuna's village; another +came a day or two ago, but he had such a villainous look we all shrank +from him. These men's faces pleased us, but they did not turn out all +we expected, for they guided us away westwards without a path: it was +a drizzling rain, and this made us averse to striking off in the +forest without them. No inhabitants now except at wide intervals, and +no animals either. In the afternoon we came to a deep ravine full of +gigantic timber trees and bamboos, with the Mavoché River at the +bottom. The dampness had caused the growth of lichens all over the +trees, and the steep descent was so slippery that two boys fell, and +he who carried the chronometers, twice: this was a misfortune, as it +altered the rates, as was seen by the first comparison of them +together in the evening. No food at Motuna's village, yet the headman +tried to extort two fathoms of calico on the ground that he was owner +of the country: we offered to go out of his village and make our own +sheds on "God's land," that is, where it is uncultivated, rather than +have any words about it: he then begged us to stay. A very high +mountain called Chikokwé appeared W.S.W. from this village; the people +who live on it are called Matumba; this part is named Lokumbi, but +whatever the name, all the people are Babisa, the dependants of the +Babemba, reduced by their own slaving habits to a miserable jungly +state. They feed much on wild fruits, roots, and leaves; and yet are +generally plump. They use a wooden hoe for sowing their maëre, it is +a sort of V-shaped implement, made from a branch with another +springing out of it, about an inch in diameter at the sharp point, and +with it they claw the soil after scattering the seed; about a dozen +young men were so employed in the usual small patches as we passed in +the morning. + +The country now exhibits the extreme of leafiness and the undulations +are masses of green leaves; as far as the eye can reach with +distinctness it rests on a mantle of that hue, and beyond the scene +becomes dark blue. Near at hand many gay flowers peep out. Here and +there the scarlet martagón (_Lilium chalcedonicum_), bright blue or +yellow gingers; red, orange, yellow, and pure white orchids; pale +lobelias, &c.; but they do not mar the general greenness. As we +ascended higher on the plateau, grasses, which have pink and reddish +brown seed-vessels imparted distinct shades of their colours to the +lawns, and were grateful to the eye. We turned aside early in our +march to avoid being wetted by rains, and took shelter in some old +Babisa sheds; these, when the party is a slaving one, are built so as +to form a circle, with but one opening: a ridge pole, or rather a +succession of ridge poles, form one long shed all round, with no +partitions in the roof-shaped hut. + +On the _9th of January_ we ascended a hardened sandstone range. Two +men who accompanied our guide called out every now and then to attract +the attention of the honey-guide, but none appeared. A water-buck had +been killed and eaten at one spot, the ground showing marks of a +severe struggle, but no game was to be seen. Buffaloes and elephants +come here at certain seasons; at present they have migrated elsewhere. +The valleys are very beautiful: the oozes are covered with a species +of short wiry grass, which gives the valleys the appearance of +well-kept gentlemen's parks; but they are full of water to +overflowing--immense sponges in fact;--and one has to watch carefully +in crossing them to avoid plunging into deep water-holes, made by the +feet of elephants or buffaloes. In the ooze generally the water comes +half-way up the shoe, and we go plash, plash, plash, in the lawn-like +glade. There are no people here now in these lovely wild valleys; but +to-day we came to mounds made of old for planting grain, and slag from +iron furnaces. The guide was rather offended because he did not get +meat and meal, though he is accustomed to leaves at home, and we had +none to give except by wanting ourselves: he found a mess without much +labour in the forest. My stock of meal came to an end to-day, but +Simon gave me some of his. It is not the unpleasantness of eating +unpalatable food that teases one, but we are never satisfied; I could +brace myself to dispose of a very unsavoury mess, and think no more +about it; but this maëre engenders a craving which plagues day and +night incessantly. + +_10th January, 1867._--We crossed the Muasi, flowing strongly to the +east to the Loangwa River. + +In the afternoon an excessively heavy thunderstorm wetted us all to +the skin before any shelter could be made. Two of our men wandered, +and other two remained behind lost, as our track was washed out by the +rains. The country is a succession of enormous waves, all covered with +jungle, and no traces of paths; we were in a hollow, and our firing +was not heard till this morning, when we ascended a height and were +answered. I am thankful that up one was lost, for a man might wander a +long time before reaching a village. Simon gave me a little more of +his meal this morning, and went without himself: I took my belt up +three holes to relieve hunger. We got some wretched wild fruit like +that called "jambos" in India, and at midday reached the village of +Chafunga. Famine here too, but some men had killed an elephant and +came to sell the dried meat: it was high, and so were their prices; +but we are obliged to give our best from this craving hunger. + +_12th January, 1867._--Sitting down this morning near a tree my head +was just one yard off a good-sized cobra, coiled up in the sprouts at +its root, but it was benumbed with cold: a very pretty little +puff-adder lay in the path, also benumbed; it is seldom that any harm +is done by these reptiles here, although it is different in India. We +bought up all the food we could get; but it did not suffice for the +marches we expect to make to get to the Chambezé, where food is said +to be abundant, we were therefore again obliged to travel on Sunday. +We had prayers before starting; but I always feel that I am not doing +fight, it lessens the sense of obligation in the minds of my +companions; but I have no choice. We went along a rivulet till it +ended in a small lake, Mapampa or Chimbwé, about five miles long, and +one and a half broad. It had hippopotami, and the poku fed on its +banks. + +_15th January, 1867._--We had to cross the Chimbwé at its eastern end, +where it is fully a mile wide. The guide refused to show another and +narrower ford up the stream, which emptied into it from the east; and +I, being the first to cross, neglected to give orders about the poor +little dog, Chitané. The water was waist deep, the bottom soft peaty +stuff with deep holes in it, and the northern side infested by +leeches. The boys were--like myself--all too much engaged with +preserving their balance to think of the spirited little beast, and he +must have swam till he sunk. He was so useful in keeping all the +country curs off our huts; none dare to approach and steal, and he +never stole himself. He shared the staring of the people with his +master, then in the march he took charge of the whole party, running +to the front, and again to the rear, to see that all was right. He was +becoming yellowish-red in colour; and, poor thing, perished in what +the boys all call Chitané's water. + +_16th January, 1867._--March through the mountains, which are of +beautiful white and pink dolomite, scantily covered with upland trees +and vegetation. The rain, as usual, made us halt early, and wild +fruits helped to induce us to stay. + +In one place we lighted on a party of people living on Masuko fruit, +and making mats of the Shuaré[45] palm petioles. We have hard lines +ourselves; nothing but a little maëre porridge and dampers. We roast a +little grain, and boil it, to make believe it is coffee. The guide, a +maundering fellow, turned because he was not fed better than at home, +and because he knew that but for his obstinacy we should not have lost +the dog. It is needless to repeat that it is all forest on the +northern slopes of the mountains--open glade and miles of forest; +ground at present all sloppy; oozes full and overflowing--feet +constantly wet. Rivulets rush strongly with _clear_ water, though they +are in flood: we can guess which are perennial and which mere torrents +that dry up; they flow northwards and westwards to the Chambezé. + +_17th January, 1867._--Detained in an old Babisa slaving encampment by +set-in rain till noon, then set off in the midst of it. Came to hills +of dolomite, but all the rocks were covered with white lichens +(ash-coloured). The path took us thence along a ridge, which separates +the Lotiri, running westwards, and the Lobo, going northwards, and we +came at length to the Lobo, travelling along its banks till we reached +the village called Lisunga, which was about five yards broad, and very +deep, in flood, with clear water, as indeed are all the rivulets now; +they can only be crossed by felling a tree on the bant and letting it +fall across. They do not abrade their banks--vegetation protects them. +I observed that the brown ibis, a noisy bird, took care to restrain +his loud, harsh voice when driven from the tree in which his nest was +placed, and when about a quarter of a mile off, then commenced his +loud "Ha-ha-ha!" + +_18th January, 1867._--The headman of Lisunga, Chaokila, took our +present, and gave nothing in return. A deputy from Chitapangwa came +afterwards and demanded a larger present, as he was the greater man, +and said that if we gave him two fathoms of calico, he would order all +the people to bring plenty of food, not here only, but all the way to +the paramount chief of Lobemba, Chitapangwa. I proposed that he should +begin by ordering Chaokila to give us some in return for our present. +This led, as Chaokila told us, to the cloth being delivered to the +deputy, and we saw that all the starvelings south of the Chambezé were +poor dependants on the Babemba, or rather their slaves, who cultivate +little, and then only in the rounded patches above mentioned, so as to +prevent their conquerors from taking away more than a small share. The +subjects are Babisa--a miserable lying lot of serfs. This tribe is +engaged in the slave-trade, and the evil effects are seen in their +depopulated country and utter distrust of every one. + +_19th January, 1867._--Raining most of the day. Worked out the +longitude of the mountain-station said to be Mpini, but it will be +better to name it Chitané's, as I could not get the name from our +maundering guide; he probably did not know it. Lat, 11° 9' 2" S.; +long. 32° 1' 30" E. + + Altitude above sea (barometer) 5353 feet; + Altitude above sea (boiling-point) 5385 feet. + ---- + Diff. 32.[46] + +Nothing but famine and famine prices, the people living on mushrooms +and leaves. Of mushrooms we observed that they choose five or six +kinds, and rejected ten sorts. One species becomes as large as the +crown of a man's hat; it is pure white, with a blush of brown in the +middle of the crown, and is very good roasted; it is named "Motenta;" +another, Mofeta; 3rd, Boséfwé; 4th, Nakabausa; 5th, Chisimbé, +lobulated, green outside, and pink and fleshy inside; as a relish to +others: some experience must have been requisite to enable them to +distinguish the good from the noxious, of which they reject ten sorts. + +We get some elephants' meat from the people, but high is no name for +its condition. It is very bitter, but we used it as a relish to the +maëre porridge: none of the animal is wasted; skin and all is cut up +and sold, not one of us would touch it with the hand if we had aught +else, for the gravy in which we dip our porridge is like an aqueous +solution of aloes, but it prevents the heartburn, which maëre causes +when taken alone. I take mushrooms boiled instead; but the meat is +never refused when we can purchase it, as it seems to ease the feeling +of fatigue which jungle-fruit and fare engenders. The appetite in this +country is always very keen, and makes hunger worse to bear: the want +of salt, probably, makes the gnawing sensation worse. + + * * * * * + +[We now come to a disaster which cannot be exaggerated in importance +when we witness its after effects month by month on Dr. Livingstone. +There can be little doubt that the severity of his subsequent +illnesses mainly turned upon it, and it is hardly too much to believe +that his constitution from this time was steadily sapped by the +effects of fever-poison which he was powerless to counteract, owing to +the want of quinine. In his allusion to Bishop Mackenzie's death, we +have only a further confirmation of the one rule in all such cases +which must be followed, or the traveller in Africa goes--not with his +life in his hand, but in some luckless box, put in the charge of +careless servants. Bishop Mackenzie had all his drugs destroyed by the +upsetting of a canoe, in which was his case of medicines, and in a +moment everything was soaked and spoilt. + +It cannot be too strongly urged on explorers that they should divide +their more important medicines in such a way that a _total loss_ shall +become well-nigh impossible. Three or four tin canisters containing +some calomel, Dover's powder, colocynth, and, above all, a supply of +quinine, can be distributed in different packages, and then, if a +mishap occurs similar to that which Livingstone relates, the disaster +is not beyond remedy.] + + * * * * * + +_20th January, 1867._--A guide refused, so we marched without one. The +two Waiyau, who joined us at Kandé's village, now deserted. They had +been very faithful all the way, and took our part in every case. +Knowing the language well, they were extremely useful, and no one +thought that they would desert, for they were free men--their masters +had been killed by the Mazitu--and this circumstance, and their +uniform good conduct, made us trust them more than we should have done +any others who had been slaves. But they left us in the forest, and +heavy rain came on, which obliterated every vestige of their +footsteps. To make the loss the more galling, they took what we could +least spare--the medicine-box, which they would only throw away as +soon as they came to examine their booty. One of these deserters +exchanged his load that morning with a boy called Baraka, who had +charge of the medicine-box, because he was so careful. This was done, +because with the medicine-chest were packed five large cloths and all +Baraka's clothing and beads, of which he was very careful. The Waiyau +also offered to carry this burden a stage to help Baraka, while he +gave his own load, in which there was no cloth, in exchange. The +forest was so dense and high, there was no chance of getting a glimpse +of the fugitives, who took all the dishes, a large box of powder, the +flour we had purchased dearly to help us as far as the Chambezé, the +tools, two guns, and a cartridge-pouch; but the medicine-chest was the +sorest loss of all! I felt as if I had now received the sentence of +death, like poor Bishop Mackenzie. + +All the other goods I had divided in case of loss or desertion, but +had never dreamed of losing the precious quinine and other remedies; +other losses and annoyances I felt as just parts of that undercurrent +of vexations which is not wanting in even the smoothest life, and +certainly not worthy of being moaned over in the experience of an +explorer anxious to benefit a country and people--but this loss I feel +most keenly. Everything of this kind happens by the permission of One +who watches over us with most tender care; and this may turn out for +the best by taking away a source of suspicion among more +superstitious, charm-dreading people further north. I meant it as a +source of benefit to my party and to the heathen. + +We returned to Lisunga, and got two men off to go back to Chafunga's +village, and intercept the deserters if they went there; but it is +likely that, having our supply of flour, they will give our route a +wide berth and escape altogether. It is difficult to say from the +heart, "Thy will be done;" but I shall try. These Waiyau had few +advantages: sold into slavery in early life, they were in the worst +possible school for learning to be honest and honourable, they behaved +well for a long time; but, having had hard and scanty fare in Lobisa, +wet and misery in passing through dripping forests, hungry nights and +fatiguing days, their patience must have been worn out, and they had +no sentiments of honour, or at least none so strong as we ought to +have; they gave way to the temptation which their good conduct had led +us to put in their way. Some we have come across in this journey +seemed born essentially mean and base--a great misfortune to them and +all who have to deal with them, but they cannot be so blamable as +those who have no natural tendency to meanness, and whose education +has taught them to abhor it. True; yet this loss of the medicine-box +gnaws at the heart terribly. + +_21st and 22nd January, 1867._--Remained at Lisunga--raining nearly +all day; and we bought all the maëre the chief would sell. We were now +forced to go on and made for the next village to buy food. Want of +food and rain are our chief difficulties now, more rain falls here on +this northern slope of the upland than elsewhere; clouds come up from +the north and pour down their treasures in heavy thunder-showers, +which deluge the whole country south of the edge of the plateau: the +rain-clouds come from the west chiefly. + +_23rd January, 1867._--A march of five and three-quarter hours brought +us yesterday to a village, Chibanda's stockade, where "no food" was +the case, as usual. We crossed a good-sized rivulet, the Mapampa +(probably ten yards wide), dashing along to the east; all the rest of +the way was in dark forest. I sent off the boys to the village of +Muasi to buy food, if successful, to-morrow we march for the Chambezé, +on the other side of which all the reports agree in the statement that +there plenty of food is to be had. We all feel weak and easily tired, +and an incessant hunger teases us, so it is no wonder if so large a +space of this paper is occupied by stomach affairs. It has not been +merely want of nice dishes, but real biting hunger and faintness. + +_24th January, 1867._--Four hours through unbroken, dark forest +brought us to the Movushi, which here is a sluggish stream, winding +through and filling a marshy valley a mile wide. It comes from +south-east, and falls into the Chambezé, about 2' north of our +encampment. The village of Moaba is on the east side of the marshy +valley of the Movuhi, and very difficult to be approached, as the +water is chin-deep in several spots. I decided to make sheds on the +west side, and send over for food, which, thanks to the Providence +which watches over us, we found at last in a good supply of maëre and +some ground-nuts; but through, all this upland region the trees +yielding bark-cloth, or _nyanda_, are so abundant, that the people +are all well-clothed with it, and care but little for our cloth. Red +and pink beads are in fashion, and fortunately we have red. + + * * * * * + +[We may here add a few particulars concerning beads, which form such +an important item of currency all through Africa. With a few +exceptions they are all manufactured in Venice. The greatest care must +be exercised, or the traveller--ignorant of the prevailing fashion in +the country he is about to explore--finds himself with an accumulation +of beads of no more value than tokens would be if tendered in this +country for coin of the realm. + +Thanks to the kindness of Messrs. Levin & Co., the bead merchants, of +Bevis Marks, E.C., we have been able to get some idea of the more +valuable beads, through a selection made by Susi and Chuma in their +warehouse. The Waiyou prefer exceedingly small beads, the size of +mustard-seed, and of various colours, but they must be opaque: amongst +them dull white chalk varieties, called "Catchokolo," are valuable, +besides black and pink, named, respectively, "Bububu" and +"Sekundereché" = the "dregs of pombe." One red bead, of various sizes, +which has a white centre, is always valuable in every part of Africa. +It is called "Sami-sami" by the Suahélé, "Chitakaraka" by the Waiyou, +"Mangazi," = "blood," by the Nyassa, and was found popular even +amongst the Manyuema, under the name of "Maso-kantussi", "bird's +eyes." Whilst speaking of this distant tribe, it is interesting to +observe that one peculiar long bead, recognised as common in the +Manyuema land, is only sent to the West Coast of Africa, and _never_ +to the East. On Chuma pointing to it as a sort found at the extreme +limit explored by Livingstone, it was at once seen that he must have +touched that part of Africa which begins to be within the reach of the +traders in the Portuguese settlements. "Machua Kanga" = "guinea fowl's +eyes," is another popular variety; and the "Moiompio" = "new heart," +a large pale blue bead, is a favourite amongst the Wabisa; but by far +the most valuable of all is a small white oblong bead, which, when +strung, looks like the joints of the cane root, from which it takes +its name, "Salani" = cane. Susi says that 1 lb. weight of these beads +would buy a tusk of ivory, at the south end of Tanganyika, so big that +a strong man could not carry it more than two hours.] + + * * * * * + +_25th January, 1867._--Remain and get our maëre ground into flour. +Moaba has cattle, sheep, and goats. The other side of the Chambezé has +everything in still greater abundance; so we may recover our lost +flesh. There are buffaloes in this quarter, but we have not got a +glimpse of any. If game was to be had, I should have hunted; but the +hopo way of hunting prevails, and we pass miles of hedges by which +many animals must have perished. In passing-through the forests it is +surprising to see none but old footsteps of the game; but the hopo +destruction accounts for its absence. When the hedges are burned, then +the manured space is planted with pumpkins and calabashes. + +I observed at Chibanda's a few green mushrooms, which, on being +peeled, showed a pink, fleshy inside; they are called "chisimba;" and +only one or two are put into the mortar, in which the women pound the +other kinds, to give relish, it was said, to the mass: I could not +ascertain what properties chisimba had when taken alone; but mushroom +diet, in our experience, is good only for producing dreams of the +roast beef of bygone days. The saliva runs from the mouth in these +dreams, and the pillow is wet with it in the mornings. + +These Babisa are full of suspicion; everything has to be paid for +accordingly in advance, and we found that giving a present to a chief +is only putting it in his power to cheat us out of a supper. They give +nothing to each other for nothing, and if this is enlargement of mind +produced by commerce, commend me to the untrading African! + +Fish now appear in the rivulets. Higher altitudes have only small +things, not worth catching. + +An owl makes the woods resound by night and early morning with his +cries, which consist of a loud, double-initial note, and then a +succession of lower descending notes. Another new bird, or at least +new to me, makes the forests ring. + +When the vultures see us making our sheds, they conclude that we have +killed some animal; but after watching awhile, and seeing no meat, +they depart. This is suggestive of what other things prove, that it is +only by sight they are guided.[47] + +With respect to the native head-dresses the colouring-matter, "nkola," +which seems to be camwood, is placed as an ornament on the head, and +some is put on the bark-cloth to give it a pleasant appearance. The +tree, when cut, is burned to bring out the strong colour, and then, +when it is developed, the wood is powdered. + +The gum-copal trees now pour out gum where wounded, and I have seen +masses of it fallen on the ground. + +_26th January, 1867._--Went northwards along the Movushi, near to its +confluence with Chambezé, and then took lodging in a deserted +temporary village. In the evening I shot a poku, or tsébula, +full-grown male. It measured from snout to insertion of tail, 5 feet +3 inches; tail, 1 foot; height at withers, 3 feet; circumference of +chest, 5 feet; face to insertion of horns, 9-1/2 inches; horns +measured on curve, 16 inches. Twelve rings on horns, and one had a +ridge behind, 1/2 inch broad, 1/2 inch high, and tapering up the horn; +probably accidental. Colour: reddish-yellow, dark points in front of +foot and on the ears, belly nearly white. The shell went through from +behind the shoulder to the spleen, and burst on the other side, yet he +ran 100 yards. I felt very thankful to the Giver of all good for this +meat. + +_27th January, 1867._--A set-in rain all the morning, but having meat +we were comfortable in the old huts. In changing my dress this morning +I was frightened at my own emaciation. + +_28th January, 1867._--- We went five miles along the Movushi and the +Chambezé to a crossing-place said to avoid three rivers on the other +side, which require canoes just now, and have none. Our lat. 10° 34' +S. The Chambezé was flooded with clear water, but the lines of bushy +trees, which showed its real banks, were not more than forty yards +apart, it showed its usual character of abundant animal life in its +waters and on its banks, as it wended its way westwards. The canoe-man +was excessively suspicious; when prepayment was acceded to, he asked a +piece more, and although he was promised full payment as soon as we +were all safely across he kept the last man on the south side as a +hostage for this bit of calico: he then ran away. They must cheat each +other sadly. + +Went northwards, wading across two miles of flooded flats on to which +the _Clarias Capensis_, a species of siluris, comes to forage out of +the river. We had the Likindazi, a sedgy stream, with hippopotami, on +our right. Slept in forest without seeing anyone. Then next day we met +with a party who had come from their village to look for us. We were +now in Lobemba, but these villagers had nothing but hopes of plenty at +Chitapangwa's. This village had half a mile of ooze and sludgy marsh +in front of it, and a stockade as usual. We observed that the people +had great fear of animals at night, and shut the gates carefully, of +even temporary villages. When at Molemba (Chitapangwa's village) +afterwards, two men were killed by a lion, and great fear of +crocodiles was expressed by our canoe-man at the Chambezé, when one +washed in the margin of that river. There was evidence of abundance of +game, elephants, and buffaloes, but we saw none. + +_29th January, 1867._--When near our next stage end we were shown +where lightning had struck; it ran down a gum-copal tree without +damaging it, then ten yards horizontally, and dividing there into two +streams it went up an anthill; the withered grass showed its course +very plainly, and next day (31st), on the banks of the Mabula, we saw +a dry tree which had been struck; large splinters had been riven off +and thrown a distance of sixty yards in one direction and thirty yards +in another: only a stump was left, and patches of withered grass where +it had gone horizontally. + +_30th January, 1867._--Northwards through almost trackless dripping +forests and across oozing bogs. + +_31st January, 1867._--Through forest, but gardens of larger size than +in Lobisa now appear. A man offered a thick bar of copper for sale, a +foot by three inches. The hard-leafed acacia and mohempi abound. The +valleys, with the oozes, have a species of grass, having pink +seed-stalks and yellow seeds: this is very pretty. At midday we came +to the Lopiri, the rivulet which waters Chitapanga's stockade, and +soon after found that his village has a triple stockade, the inner +being defended also by a deep broad ditch and hedge of a solanaceous +thorny shrub. It is about 200 yards broad and 500 long. The huts not +planted very closely. + +The rivulets were all making for the Chambezé. They contain no fish, +except very small ones--probably fry. On the other, or western side +of the ridge, near which "Malemba" is situated, fish abound worth +catching. + +[Illustration: Chitapangwa] + +Chitapangwa, or Motoka, as he is also called, sent to inquire if we +wanted an audience. "We must take something in our hands the first +time we came before so great a man." Being tired from marching, I +replied, "Not till the evening," and sent notice at 5 P.M. of my +coming. We passed through the inner stockade, and then on to an +enormous hut, where sat Chitapangwa, with three drummers and ten or +more men, with two rattles in their hands. The drummers beat +furiously, and the rattlers kept time to the drums, two of them +advancing and receding in a stooping posture, with rattles near the +ground, as if doing the chief obeisance, but still keeping time with +the others. I declined to sit on the ground, and an enormous tusk was +brought for me. The chief saluted courteously. He has a fat jolly +face, and legs loaded with brass and copper leglets. I mentioned our +losses by the desertion of the Waiyau, but his power is merely +nominal, and he could do nothing. After talking awhile he came along +with us to a group of cows, and pointed out one. "That is yours," said +he. The tusk on which I sat was sent after me too as being mine, +because I had sat upon it. He put on my cloth as token of acceptance, +and sent two large baskets of sorghum to the hut afterwards, and then +sent for one of the boys to pump him after dark. + +[Illustration: Chitapangwa's Wives.] + +_1st February, 1867._--We found a small party of black Arab +slave-traders here from Bagamoio on the coast, and as the chief had +behaved handsomely as I thought, I went this morning and gave him one +of our best cloths; but when we were about to kill the cow, a man +interfered and pointed out a smaller one. I asked if this was by the +orders of the chief. The chief said that the man had lied, but I +declined to take any cow at all if he did not give it willingly. + +The slavers, the headman of whom was Magaru Mafupi, came and said that +they were going off on the 2nd; (_2nd February, 1867_) but by payment +I got them to remain a day, and was all day employed in writing +despatches. + +_3rd February, 1867._--Magaru Mafupi left this morning with a packet +of letters, for which he is to get Rs. 10 at Zanzibar.[48] They came +by a much shorter route than we followed, in fact, nearly due west or +south-west; but not a soul would tell us of this way of coming into +the country when we were at Zanzibar. Bagamoio is only six hours north +of Kurdary Harbour. It is possible that the people of Zanzibar did not +know of it themselves, as this is the first time they have come so +far. The route is full of villages and people who have plenty of +goats, and very cheap. They number fifteen stations, or sultans, as +they call the chiefs, and will be at Bagamoio in two months:--1. +Chasa; 2. Lombé; 3. Ucheré; 4. Nyamiro; 5. Zonda; 6. Zambi; 7. Lioti; +8. Méreré; 9. Kirangabana; 10. Nkongozi; 11. Sombogo; 12. Suré; 13. +Lomolasenga; 14. Kapass; 15, Chanzé. They are then in the country +adjacent to Bagamoio. Some of these places are two or three days apart +from each other. + +They came to three large rivers: 1. Wembo; 2. Luaha; 3. Luvo; but I +had not time to make further inquiries. They had one of Speke's +companions to Tanganyika with them, named Janjé, or Janja, who could +imitate a trumpet by blowing into the palm of his hand. I ordered +another supply of cloth and beads, and I sent for a small quantity of +coffee, sugar, candles, French preserved meats, a cheese in tin, six +bottles of port-wine, quinine, calomel, and resin of jalap, to be sent +to Ujiji. + +I proposed to go a little way east with this route to buy goats, but +Chitapangwa got very angry, saying, I came only to show my things, and +would buy nothing: he then altered his tone, and requested me to take +the cow first presented and eat it, and as we were all much in need I +took it. We were to give only what we liked in addition; but this was +a snare, and when I gave two more cloths he sent them back, and +demanded a blanket. The boys alone have blankets; so I told him these +were not slaves, and I could not take from them what I had once given. +Though it is disagreeable to be thus victimized, it is the first time +we have tasted fat for six weeks and more. + +_6th February, 1867._--Chitapangwa came with his wife to see the +instruments which I explained to them as well as I could, and the +books, as well as the Book of Books, and to my statements he made +intelligent remarks. The boys are sorely afraid of him. When Abraham +does not like to say what I state, he says to me "I don't know the +proper word;" but when I speak without him, he soon finds them. He and +Simon thought that talking in a cringing manner was the way to win him +over, so I let them try it with a man he sent to communicate with us, +and the result was this fellow wanted to open their bundles, pulled +them about, and kept them awake most of the night. Abraham came at +night: "Sir, what shall I do? they won't let me sleep." "You have had +your own way," I replied, "and must abide by it." He brought them over +to me in the morning, but I soon dismissed both him and them. + +_7th February, 1867._--I sent to the chief either to come to me or say +Avhen I should come to him and talk; the answer I got was that he +would come when shaved, but he afterwards sent a man to hear what I +had to advance--this I declined, and when the rain ceased I went +myself. + +On coming into his hut I stated that I had given him four times the +value of his cow, but if he thought otherwise, let us take the four +cloths to his brother Moamba, and if he said that I had not given +enough, I would buy a cow and send it back. This he did not relish at +all. "Oh, great Englishman! why should we refer a dispute to an +inferior. I am the great chief of all this country. Ingleze mokolu, +you are sorry that you have to give so much for the ox you have eaten. +You would not take a smaller, and therefore I gratified your heart by +giving the larger; and why should not you gratify my heart by giving +cloth sufficient to cover me, and please me?" + +I said that my cloths would cover him, and his biggest wife too all +over, he laughed at this, but still held out; and as we have meat, and +he sent maize and calabashes, I went away. He turns round now, and +puts the blame of greediness on me. I cannot enter into his ideas, or +see his point of view; cannot, in fact, enter into his ignorance, his +prejudices, or delusions, so it is impossible to pronounce a true +judgment. One who has no humour cannot understand one who has: this is +an equivalent case. + +Rain and clouds so constantly, I could not get our latitude till last +night, 10° 14' 6" S. On 8th got lunars. Long. 31° 46' 45" E. Altitude +above sea, 4700 feet, by boiling-point and barometer. + +_8th February, 1867._--The chief demands one of my boxes and a +blanket; I explain that one day's rain would spoil the contents, and +the boys who have blankets, not being slaves, I cannot take from them +what I have given. I am told that he declares that he will take us +back to the Loangwa; make war and involve us in it, deprive us of +food, &c.: this succeeds in terrifying the boys. He thinks that we +have some self-interest to secure in passing through the country, and +therefore he has a right to a share in the gain. When told it was for +a public benefit, he pulled down the underlid of the right eye.[49] He +believes we shall profit by our journey, though he knows not in what +way. + +It is possibly only a coincidence, but no sooner do we meet with one +who accompanied Speke and Burton to Tanganyika, than the system of +mulcting commences. I have no doubt but that Janjé told this man how +his former employers paid down whatever was demanded of them. + +_10th February, 1867._--I had service in the open air, many looking +on, and spoke afterwards to the chief, but he believes nothing save +what Speke and Burton's man has told him. He gave us a present of corn +and ground-nuts, and says he did not order the people not to sell +grain to us. We must stop and eat green maize. He came after evening +service, and I explained a little to him, and showed him woodcuts in +the 'Bible Dictionary,' which he readily understood. + +_11th February, 1867._--The chief sent us a basket of hippopotamus +flesh from the Chambezé, and a large one of green maize. He says the +three cloths I offered are still mine: all he wants is a box and +blanket; if not a blanket, a box must be given, a tin one. He keeps +out of my way, by going to the gardens every morning. He is +good-natured, and our intercourse is a laughing one; but the boys +betray their terrors in their tone of voice, and render my words +powerless. + +The black and white, and the brownish-grey water wagtails are +remarkably tame. They come about the huts and even into them, and no +one ever disturbs them. They build their nests about the huts. In the +Bechuana country, a fine is imposed on any man whose boys kill one, +but why, no one can tell me. The boys with me aver that they are not +killed, because the meat is not eaten! or because they are so tame!! + +_13th February, 1867._--I gave one of the boxes at last, Chitapangwa +offering a heavy Arab wooden one to preserve our things, which I +declined to take, as I parted with our own partly to lighten a load. +Abraham unwittingly told me that he had not given me the chiefs +statement in full when he pressed me to take his cow. It was, "Take +and eat the one you like, and give me a blanket." Abraham said "He has +no blanket." Then he said to me, "Take it and eat it, and give him any +pretty thing you like." I was thus led to mistake the chief, and he, +believing that he had said explicitly he wanted a blanket for it, +naturally held out. It is difficult to get these lads to say what one +wants uttered: either with enormous self-conceit, they give different, +and, as they think, better statements, suppress them altogether, or +return false answers: this is the great and crowning difficulty of my +intercourse. + +I got ready to go, but the chief was very angry, and came with all his +force, exclaiming that I wanted to leave against his will and power, +though he wished to adjust matters, and send me away nicely. He does +not believe that we have no blankets. It is hard to be kept waiting +here, but all may be for the best: it has always turned out so, and I +trust in Him on whom I can cast all my cares. The Lord look on this +and help me. Though I have these nine boys, I feel quite alone. + +I gave the chief some seeds, peas, and beans, for which he seemed +thankful, and returned little presents of food and beer frequently. +The beer of maëre is stuffed full of the growing grain as it begins to +sprout, it is as thick as porridge, very strong and bitter, and goes +to the head, requiring a strong digestion to overcome it. + +_February, 1867._--I showed the chief one of the boys' blankets, +which he is willing to part with for two of our cloths, each of which +is larger than it, but he declines to receive it, because we have new +ones. I invited him, since he disbelieved my assertions, to look in +our bales, and if he saw none, to pay us a fine for the insult: he +consented in a laughing way to give us an ox. All our personal +intercourse has been of the good-natured sort. It is the +communications to the boys, by three men who are our protectors, or +rather spies, that is disagreeable; I won't let them bring those +fellows near me. + +_10th February, 1867._--He came early in the morning, and I showed +that I had no blanket, and he took the old one, and said that the +affair was ended. A long misunderstanding would have been avoided, had +Abraham told me fully what the chief said at first. + +_16th February, 1867._--The chief offered me a cow for ŕ piece of red +serge, and after a deal of talk and Chitapangwa swearing that no +demand would be made after the bargain was concluded, I gave the +serge, a cloth, and a few beads for a good fat cow. The serge was two +fathoms, a portion of that which Miss Coutts gave me when leaving +England in 1858. + +The chief is not so bad, as the boys are so cowardly. They assume a +chirping, piping tone of voice in speaking to him, and do not say what +at last has to be said, because in their cringing souls they believe +they know what should be said better than I do. It does not strike +them in the least that I have grown grey amongst these people; and it +is immense conceit in mere boys to equal themselves to me. The +difficulty is greater, because when I do ask their opinions I only +receive the reply, "It is as you please, sir." Very likely some men of +character may arise and lead them; but such as I have would do little +to civilise. + +_17th February, 1867._--Too ill with rheumatic-fever to have service; +this is the first attack of it I ever had--and no medicine! but I +trust in the Lord, who healeth His people. + +_18th February, 1867._--This cow we divided at once. The last one we +cooked, and divided a full, hearty meal to all every evening. + +The boom--booming of water dashing against or over the rocks is heard +at a good distance from most of the burns in this upland region; hence +it is never quite still. + +The rocks here are argillaceous schist, red and white. _(Keel, +Scotticé.)_ + +_19th February, 1867._--Chitapangwa begged me to stay another day, +that one of the boys might mend his blanket; it has been worn every +night since April, and I, being weak and giddy, consented. A glorious +day of bright sunlight after a night's rain. We scarcely ever have a +twenty-four hours without rain, and never half that period without +thunder. + +The camwood (?) is here called molombwa, and grows very abundantly. +The people take the bark, boil, and grind it fine: it is then a +splendid blood-red, and they use it extensively as an ornament, +sprinkling it on the bark-cloth, or smearing it on the head. It is in +large balls, and is now called mkola. The tree has pinnated, alternate +lanceolate, leaves, and attains a height of 40 or 50 feet, with a +diameter of 15 or 18 inches finely and closely veined above, more +widely beneath. + +I am informed by Abraham that the Nyumbo (Numbo or Mumbo) is easily +propagated by cuttings, or by cuttings of the roots. A bunch of the +stalks is preserved in the soil for planting next year, and small +pieces are cut off, and take root easily; it has a pea-shaped flower, +but we never saw the seed. It is very much better here than I have +seen it elsewhere; and James says that in his country it is quite +white and better still; what I have seen is of a greenish tinge after +it is boiled. + +[Amongst the articles brought to the coast the men took care not to +lose a number of seeds which they found in Dr. Livingstone's boxes +after his death. These have been placed in the hands of the +authorities at Kew, and we may hope that in some instances they have +maintained vitality. + +It is a great pity that there is such a lack of enterprise in the +various European settlements on the East Coast of Africa. Were it +otherwise a large trade in valuable woods and other products would +assuredly spring up. Ebony and lignum vitae abound; Dr. Livingstone +used hardly any other fuel when he navigated the _Pioneer_, and no +wood was found to make such "good steam." India-rubber may be had for +the collecting, and we see that even the natives know some of the +dye-woods, besides which the palm-oil tree is found, indigo is a weed +everywhere, and coffee is indigenous.] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[36] In coming to cross roads it is the custom of the leader to "mark" +all side paths and wrong turnings by making a scratch across them with +his spear, or by breaking a branch and laying it across: in this way +those who follow are able to avoid straying off the proper road.--ED. + +[37] Heleotragus Vardonii. + +[38] The tamarind does the same thing in the heat of the day. + +[39] A species of kingfisher, which stands flapping its wings and +attempting to sing in a ridiculous manner. It never was better +described than by one observer who, after watching it through its +performance, said it was "a toy-shoppy bird."--ED. + +[40] Not the great chief near Lake Moero of the same name. + +[41] This extraordinary bird flies from tree to tree in front of the +hunter, chirrupping loudly, and will not be content till he arrives at +the spot where the bees'-nest is; it then waits quietly till the honey +is taken, and feeds on the broken morsels of comb which fall to its +share. + +[42] Eleusine Coracana. + +[43] It may not be altogether without interest to state that +Livingstone could fall asleep when he wished at the very shortest +notice. A mat, and a shady tree under which to spread it, would at any +time afford him a refreshing sleep, and this faculty no doubt +contributed much to his great powers of endurance.--ED. + +[44] When the elephant becomes confused by the yelping pack of dogs +with which he is surrounded, the hunter stealthily approaches behind, +and with one blow of a sharp axe hamstrings the huge beast.--ED. + +[45] Raphia. + +[46] Top of mountain (barometer) 6338 feat. + +[47] The experience of all African sportsmen tends towards the same +conclusion. Vultures probably have their beats high overhead in the +sky, too far to be seen by the eye. From this altitude they can watch +a vast tract of country, and whenever the disturbed movements of game +are observed they draw together, and for the first time are seen +wheeling, about at a great height over the spot. So soon as an animal +is killed, every tree is filled with them, but the hunter has only to +cover the meat with boughs or reeds and the vultures are entirely at a +loss--hidden, from view it is hidden altogether: the idea that they +are attracted by their keen sense of smell is altogether +erroneous,--ED. + +[48] These letters reached England safely. + +[49] It seems almost too ridiculous to believe that we have here the +exact equivalent of the schoolboy's demonstrative "Do you see any +green in my eye?" nevertheless it looks wonderfully like it!--ED. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + Chitapangwa's parting oath. Course laid for Lake Tanganyika. + Moamba's village. Another watershed. The Babemba tribe. Ill with + fever. Threatening attitude of Chibué's people. Continued + illness. Reaches cliffs overhanging Lake Liemba. Extreme beauty + of the scene. Dangerous fit of insensibility. Leaves the Lake. + Pernambuco cotton. Rumours of war between Arabs and Nsama. + Reaches Chitimba's village. Presents Sultan's letter to + principal Arab Harnees. The war in Itawa. Geography of the + Arabs. Ivory traders and slave-dealers. Appeal to the Koran. + Gleans intelligence of the Wasongo to the eastward, and their + chief, Meréré. Harnees sets out against Nsama. Tedious sojourn. + Departure for Ponda. Native cupping. + + +_20th February, 1867._--I told the chief before starting that my heart +was sore, because he was not sending me away so cordially as I liked. +He at once ordered men to start with us, and gave me a brass knife +with ivory sheath, which he had long worn, as a memorial. He explained +that we ought to go north as, if we made easting, we should ultimately +be obliged to turn west, and all our cloth would be expended ere we +reached the Lake Tanganyika; he took a piece of clay off the ground +and rubbed it on his tongue as an oath that what he said was true, and +came along with us to see that all was right; and so we parted. + +We soon ascended the plateau, which encloses with its edge the village +and stream of Molemba. Wild pigs are abundant, and there are marks of +former cultivation. A short march brought us to an ooze, surrounded by +hedges, game-traps, and pitfalls, where, as we are stiff and weak, we +spend the night. Rocks abound of the same dolomite kind as on the +ridge further south, between the Loangwa and Chambezé, covered, like +them, with lichens, orchids, euphorbias, and upland vegetation, +hard-leaved acacias, rhododendrons, masukos. The gum-copal tree, when +perforated by a grub, exudes from branches no thicker than one's arm, +masses of soft, gluey-looking gum, brownish yellow, and light grey, as +much as would fill a soup-plate. It seems to yield this gum only in +the rainy season, and now all the trees are full of sap and gum. + +_21st February, 1867._--A night with loud and near thunder, and much +heavy rain, which came through the boys' sheds. Roads all plashy or +running with water, oozes full, and rivulets overflowing; rocks of +dolomite jutting out here and there. I noticed growing here a +spikenard-looking shrub, six feet high, and a foot in diameter. The +path led us west against my will. I found one going north; but the +boys pretended that they did not see my mark, and went west, evidently +afraid of incurring Moamba's displeasure by passing him. I found them +in an old hut, and made the best of it by saying nothing. They said +that they had wandered; that was, they had never left the west-going +path. + +_22nd February, 1867._--We came to a perennial rivulet running north, +the Merungu. Here we met Moamba's people, but declined going to his +village, as huts are disagreeable; they often have vermin, and one is +exposed to the gaze of a crowd through a very small doorway. The +people in their curiosity often make the place dark, and the impudent +ones offer characteristic remarks, then raise a laugh, and run away. + +We encamped on the Meningu's right bank in forest, sending word to +Moamba that we meant to do so. He sent a deputation, first of all his +young men, to bring us; then old men, and lastly he came himself with +about sixty followers. I explained that I had become sick by living +in a little hut at Molemba; that I was better in the open air; that +huts contained vermin; and that I did not mean to remain any while +here, but go on our way. He pressed us to come to his village, and +gave us a goat and kid, with a huge calabashful of beer. I promised to +go over and visit him next day; and went accordingly. + +_23rd February, 1867._--Moamba's village was a mile off, and on the +left bank of the Merengé, a larger stream than the Merungu flowing +north and having its banks and oozes covered with fine, tall, +straight, evergreen trees. The village is surrounded with a stockade, +and a dry ditch some fifteen or twenty feet wide, and as many deep. I +had a long talk with Moamba, a big, stout, public-house-looking +person, with a slight outward cast in his left eye, but intelligent +and hearty. I presented him with a cloth; and he gave me as much maëre +meal as a man could carry, with a large basket of ground-nuts. He +wished us to come to the Merengé, if not into his village, that he +might see and talk with me: I also showed him some pictures in Smith's +'Bible Dictionary,' which he readily understood, and I spoke to him +about the Bible. He asked me "to come next day and tell him about +prayer to God," this was a natural desire after being told that we +prayed. + +He was very anxious to know why we were going to Tanganyika; for what +we came; what we should buy there; and if I had any relations there. +He then showed me some fine large tusks, eight feet six in length. +"What do you wish to buy, if not slaves or ivory?" I replied, that the +only thing I had seen worth buying was a fine fat chief like him, as a +specimen, and a woman feeding him, as he had, with beer. He was +tickled at this; and said that when we reached our country, I must put +fine clothes on him. This led us to speak of our climate, and the +production of wool. + +_24th February, 1867._--I went over after service, but late, as the +rain threatened to be heavy. A case was in process of hearing, and one +old man spoke an hour on end, the chief listening all the while with +the gravity of a judge. He then delivered his decision in about five +minutes, the successful litigant going off lullilooing. Each person, +before addressing him, turns his back to him and lies down on the +ground, clapping the hands: this is the common mode of salutation. +Another form here in Lobemba is to rattle the arrows or an arrow on +the bow, which all carry. We had a little talk with the chief; but it +was late before the cause was heard through. He asked us to come and +spend one night near him on the Merenga, and then go on, so we came +over in the morning to the vicinity of his village. A great deal of +copper-wire is here made, the wire-drawers using for one part of the +process a seven-inch cable. They make very fine wire, and it is used +chiefly as leglets and anklets; the chief's wives being laden with +them, and obliged to walk in a stately style from the weight: the +copper comes from Katanga. + +_26th February, 1867._--The chief wishes to buy a cloth with two +goats, but his men do not bring them up quickly. Simon, one of the +boys, is ill of fever, and this induces me to remain, though moving +from one place to another is the only remedy we have in our power. + +With the chief's men we did not get on well, but with himself all was +easy. His men demanded prepayment for canoes to cross the river +Loömbé; but in the way that he put it, the request was not +unreasonable, as he gave a man to smooth our way, and get canoes, or +whatever else was needed, all the way to Chibué's. I gave a cloth when +he put it thus, and he presented a goat, a spear ornamented with +copper-wire, abundance of meal, and beer, and numbo; so we parted good +friends, as his presents were worth the cloth. + +Holding a north-westerly course we met with the Chikosho flowing +west, and thence came to the Likombé by a high ridge called Losauswa, +which runs a long way westward. It is probably a watershed between +streams going to the Chambezé and those that go to the northern +rivers. + +We have the Locopa, Loömbé, Nikéléngé, then Lofubu or Lovu; the last +goes north into Liembe, but accounts are very confused. The Chambezé +rises in the Mambivé country, which is north-east of Moamba, but near +to it. + +The forest through which we passed was dense, but scrubby; trees +unhealthy and no drainage except through oozes. On the keel which +forms a clay soil the rain runs off, and the trees attain a large +size. The roads are not soured by the slow process of the ooze +drainage. At present all the slopes having loamy or sandy soil are +oozes, and full to overflowing; a long time is required for them to +discharge their contents. The country generally may be called one +covered with forest. + +_6th March, 1867._--We came after a short march to a village on the +Molilanga, flowing east into the Loömbé, here we meet with bananas for +the first time, called, as in Lunda, nkondé. A few trophies from +Mazitu are hung up: Chitapangwa had twenty-four skulls ornamenting his +stockade. The Babemba are decidedly more warlike than any of the +tribes south of them: their villages are stockaded, and have deep dry +ditches round them, so it is likely that Mochimbé will be effectually +checked, and forced to turn his energies to something else than to +marauding. + +Our man from Moamba here refused to go further, and we were put on the +wrong track by the headman wading through three marshes, each at least +half a mile broad. The people of the first village we came to shut +their gates on us, then came running after us; but we declined to +enter their village: it is a way of showing their independence. We +made our sheds on a height in spite of their protests. They said that +the gates were shut by the boys; but when I pointed out the boy who +had done it, he said that he had been ordered to do it by the chief. +If we had gone in now we should have been looked on as having come +under considerable obligations. + +_8th March, 1867._--We went on to a village on the Loömbé, where the +people showed an opposite disposition, for not a soul was in it--all +were out at their farms. When the good wife of the place came she gave +us all huts, which saved us from a pelting shower. The boys herding +the goats did not stir as we passed down the sides of the lovely +valley. The Loömbé looks a sluggish stream from a distance. The +herdsman said we were welcome, and he would show the crossing next +day, he also cooked some food for us. + +Guided by our host, we went along the Loömbé westwards till we reached +the bridge (rather a rickety affair), which, when the water is low may +be used as a weir. The Loömbé main stream is 66 feet wide, 6 feet +deep, with at least 200 feet of flood beyond it. The water was knee +deep on the bridge, but clear; the flooded part beyond was waist deep +and the water flowing fast. + +All the people are now transplanting tobacco from the spaces under the +eaves of the huts into the fields. It seems unable to bear the greater +heat of summer: they plant also a kind of liranda, proper for the cold +weather. We thought that we were conferring a boon in giving peas, but +we found them generally propagated all over the country already, and +in the cold time too. We went along the Diola River to an old hut and +made a fire; thence across country to another river, called Loendawé, +6 feet wide, and 9 feet deep. + +_10th March, 1867._--I have been ill of fever ever since we left +Moamba's; every step I take jars in the chest, and I am very weak; I +can scarcely keep up the march, though formerly I was always first, +and had to hold in my pace not to leave the people altogether. I have +a constant singing in the ears, and can scarcely hear the loud tick +of the chronometers. The appetite is good, but we have no proper food, +chiefly maëre meal or beans, or mapemba or ground-nuts, rarely a fowl. + +The country is full of hopo-hedges, but the animals are harassed, and +we never see them. + +_11th March, 1867._.--Detained by a set-in rain. Marks on masses of +dolomite elicited the information that a party of Londa smiths came +once to this smelting ground and erected their works here. We saw an +old iron furnace, and masses of haematite, which seems to have been +the ore universally used. + +_12th March, 1867._--Rain held us back for some time, but we soon +reached Chibué, a stockaded village. Like them all, it is situated by +a stream, with a dense clump of trees on the waterside of some species +of mangrove. They attain large size, have soft wood, and succulent +leaves; the roots intertwine in the mud, and one has to watch that he +does not step where no roots exist, otherwise he sinks up to the +thigh. In a village the people feel that we are on their property, and +crowd upon us inconveniently; but outside, where we usually erect our +sheds, no such feeling exists, we are each on a level, and they don't +take liberties. + +The Balungu are marked by three or four little knobs on the temples, +and the lobes of the ears are distended by a piece of wood, which is +ornamented with beads; bands of beads go across the forehead and hold +up the hair. + +Chibué's village is at the source of the Lokwéna, which goes N. and +N.E.; a long range of low hills is on our N.E., which are the Mambwé, +or part of them. The Chambezé rises in them, but further south. Here +the Lokwéna, round whose source we came on starting this morning to +avoid wet feet, and all others north and west of this, go to the Lofu +or Lobu, and into Liemba Lake. Those from the hills on our right go +east into the Loanzu and so into the Lake. + +_15th March, 1867._--We now are making for Kasonso, the chief of the +Lake, and a very large country all around it, passing the Lochenjé, +five yards wide, and knee deep, then to the Chańumba. All flow very +rapidly just now and are flooded with clean water. Everyone carries an +axe, as if constantly warring with the forest. My long-continued fever +ill disposes me to enjoy the beautiful landscape. We are evidently on +the ridge, but people have not a clear conception of where the rivers +run. + +_19th March, 1867._--A party of young men came out of the village near +which we had encamped to force us to pay something for not going into +their village. "The son of a great chief ought to be acknowledged," +&c. They had their bows and arrows with them, and all ready for +action. I told them we had remained near them because they said we +could not reach Kasonso that day. Their headman had given us nothing. +After talking a while, and threatening to do a deal to-morrow, they +left, and through an Almighty Providence nothing was attempted. We +moved on N.W. in forest, with long green tree-covered slopes on our +right, and came to a village of Kasonso in a very lovely valley. Great +green valleys were now scooped out, and many, as the Kakanza, run into +the Lovu. + +_20th March, 1867._--The same features of country prevailed, indeed it +was impossible to count the streams flowing N.W. We found Kasonso +situated at the confluence of two streams; he shook hands a long +while, and seems a frank sort of man. A shower of rain set the driver +ants on the move, and about two hours after we had turned in we were +overwhelmed by them. They are called Kalandu or Nkalanda. + +To describe this attack is utterly impossible. I wakened covered with +them: my hair was full of them. One by one they cut into the flesh, +and the more they are disturbed, the more vicious are their bites; +they become quite insolent. I went outside the hut, but there they +swarmed everywhere; they covered the legs, biting furiously; it is +only when they are tired that they leave off. + +One good trait of the Balungu up here is, they retire when they see +food brought to anyone, neither Babisa nor Makoa had this sense of +delicacy: the Babemba are equally polite. + +We have descended considerably into the broad valley of the Lake, and +it feels warmer than on the heights. Cloth here is more valuable, +inasmuch as bark-cloth is scarce. The skins of goats and wild animals +are used, and the kilt is very diminutive among the women. + +_22nd March, 1867._--Cross Loéla, thirty feet wide and one deep, and +meet with tsetse fly, though we have seen none since we left +Chitapangwa's. Kasonso gave us a grand reception, and we saw men +present from Tanganyika; I saw cassava here, but not in plenty. + +_28th March, 1867._--Set-in rain and Chuma fell ill. There are cotton +bushes of very large size here of the South American kind. After +sleeping in various villages and crossing numerous streams, we came to +Mombo's village, near the ridge overlooking the Lake. + +_31st March, and 1st April, 1867._--I was too ill to march through. I +offered to go on the 1st, but Kasonso's son, who was with us, +objected. We went up a low ridge of hills at its lowest part, and soon +after passing the summit the blue water loomed through the trees. I +was detained, but soon heard the boys firing their muskets on reaching +the edge of the ridge, which allowed of an undisturbed view. This is +the south-eastern end of Liemba, or, as it is sometimes called, +Tanganyika.[50] We had to descend at least 2000 feet before we got to +the level of the Lake. It seems about eighteen or twenty miles broad, +and we could see about thirty miles up to the north. Four considerable +rivers flow into the space before us. The nearly perpendicular ridge +of about 2000 feet extends with breaks all around, and there, +embosomed in tree-covered rocks, reposes the Lake peacefully in the +huge cup-shaped cavity. + +I never saw anything so still and peaceful as it lies all the morning. +About noon a gentle breeze springs up, and causes the waves to assume +a bluish tinge. Several rocky islands rise in the eastern end, which +are inhabited by fishermen, who capture abundance of fine large fish, +of which they enumerate about twenty-four species. In the north it +seems to narrow into a gateway, but the people are miserably deficient +in geographical knowledge, and can tell us nothing about it. They +suspect us, and we cannot get information, or indeed much of anything +else. I feel deeply thankful at having got so far. I am excessively +weak--cannot walk without tottering, and have constant singing in the +head, but the Highest will lead me further. + +Lat. of the spot we touched at first, 2nd April, 1867. Lat. 8° 46' 54" +S., long. 31° 57'; but I only worked out (and my head is out of order) +one set of observations. Height above level of the sea over 2800 feet, +by boiling-point thermometers and barometer. The people won't let me +sound the Lake. + +After being a fortnight at this Lake it still appears one of +surpassing loveliness. Its peacefulness is remarkable, though at times +it is said to be lashed up by storms. It lies in a deep basin whose +sides are nearly perpendicular, but covered well with trees; the rocks +which appear are bright red argillaceous schist; the trees at present +all green: down some of these rocks come beautiful cascades, and +buffaloes, elephants, and antelopes wander and graze on the more level +spots, while lions roar by night. The level place below is not two +miles from the perpendicular. The village (Pambété), at which we +first touched the Lake, is surrounded by palm-oil trees--not the +stunted ones of Lake Nyassa, but the real West Coast palm-oil +tree,[51] requiring two men to carry a bunch of the ripe fruit. In the +morning and evening huge crocodiles may be observed quietly making +their way to their feeding grounds; hippopotami snort by night and at +early morning. + +After I had been a few days here I had a fit of insensibility, which +shows the power of fever without medicine. I found myself floundering +outside my hut and unable to get in; I tried to lift myself from my +back by laying hold of two posts at the entrance, but when I got +nearly upright I let them go, and fell back heavily on my head on a +box. The boys had seen the wretched state I was in, and hung a blanket +at the entrance of the hut, that no stranger might see my +helplessness; some hours elapsed before I could recognize where I was. + +As for these Balungu, as they are called, they have a fear of us, they +do not understand our objects, and they keep aloof. They promise +everything and do nothing; but for my excessive weakness we should go +on, but we wait for a recovery of strength. + +As people they are greatly reduced in numbers by the Mazitu, who +carried off very large numbers of the women, boys, girls, and +children. They train or like to see the young men arrayed as Mazitu, +but it would be more profitable if they kept them to agriculture. They +are all excessively polite. The clapping of hands on meeting is +something excessive, and then the string of salutations that accompany +it would please the most fastidious Frenchman. It implies real +politeness, for in marching with them they always remove branches out +of the path, and indicate stones or stumps in it carefully to a +stranger, yet we cannot prevail on them to lend carriers to examine +the Lake or to sell goats, of which, however, they have very few, and +all on one island. + +The Lake discharges its water north-westward or rather +nor-north-westwards. We observe weeds going in that direction, and as +the Lonzua, the Kowé, the Kapata, the Luazé, the Kalambwé, flow into +it near the east end, and the Lovu or Lofubu, or Lofu, from the +south-west near the end it must find an exit for so much water. All +these rivers rise in or near the Mambwé country, in lat. 10° S., +where, too, the Chambezé rises. Liemba is said to remain of about the +same size as we go north-west, but this we shall see for ourselves. + +Elephants come all about us. One was breaking trees close by. I fired +into his ear without effect: I am too weak to hold the gun steadily. + +_30th April, 1867._--We begin our return march from Liemba. Slept at a +village on the Lake, and went on next day to Pambété, where we first +touched it. I notice that here the people pound tobacco-leaves in a +mortar after they have undergone partial fermentation by lying in the +sun, then they put the mass in the sun to dry for use. + +The reason why no palm-oil trees grow further east than Pambété is +said to be the stony soil there, and this seems a valid one, for it +loves rich loamy meadows. + +_1st May, 1867._--We intended to go north-west to see whether this +Lake narrows or not, for all assert that it maintains its breadth such +as we see it beyond Pemba as far as they know it; but when about to +start the headman and his wife came and protested so solemnly that by +going N.W. we should walk into the hands of a party of Mazitu there, +that we deferred our departure. It was not with a full persuasion of +the truth of the statement that I consented, but we afterwards saw +good evidence that it was true, and that we were saved from being +plundered. These marauders have changed their tactics, for they +demand so many people, and so many cloths, and then leave. They made +it known that their next scene of mulcting would be Mombo's village, +and there they took twelve people--four slaves, and many cloths, then +went south to the hills they inhabit. A strict watch was kept on their +movements by our headman and his men. They trust to fleeing into a +thicket on the west of the village should the Mazitu come. + +I have been informed on good authority that Kasonso was on his way to +us when news arrived that his young son had died. He had sent on beer +and provisions for us, but the Mazitu intervening they were consumed. + +The Mazitu having left we departed and slept half-way up the ridge. I +had another fit of insensibility last night: the muscles of the back +lose all power,[52] and there is constant singing in the ears, and +inability to do the simplest sum. Cross the Aeezé (which makes the +waterfall) fifteen yards wide and knee deep. The streams like this are +almost innumerable. + +Mombo's village. It is distressingly difficult to elicit accurate +information about the Lake and rivers, because the people do not think +accurately. Mombo declared that two Arabs came when we were below, and +inquired for us, but he denied our presence, thinking thereby to save +us trouble and harm. + +The cotton cultivated is of the Pernambuco species, and the bushes are +seven or eight feet high. Much cloth was made in these parts before +the Mazitu raids began, it was striped black and white, and many +shawls are seen in the country yet. It is curious that this species of +cotton should be found only in the middle of this country. + +In going westwards on the upland the country is level and covered +with scraggy forest as usual, long lines of low hills or rather ridges +of denudation run. N. and S. on our east. This is called Moami +country, full of elephants, but few are killed. They do much damage, +eating the sorghum in the gardens unmolested. + +_11th May, 1867._--A short march to-day brought us to a village on the +same Moami, and to avoid a Sunday in the forest we remained. The +elephants had come into the village and gone all about it, and to +prevent their opening the corn safes the people had bedaubed them with +elephant's droppings. When a cow would not give milk, save to its +calf, a like device was used at Kolobeng; the cow's droppings were +smeared on the teats, and the calf was too much disgusted to suck: the +cow then ran till she was distressed by the milk fever and was willing +to be relieved by the herdsman. + +_12th and 13th May, 1867._--News that the Arabs had been fighting with +Nsama came, but this made us rather anxious to get northward along +Liemba, and we made for Mokambola's village near the edge of the +precipice which overhangs the Lake. Many Shuaré Raphia palms grow in +the river which flows past it. + +As we began our descent we saw the Lofu coming from the west and +entering Liemba. A projection of Liemba comes to meet it, and then it +is said to go away to the north or north-west as far as my informants +knew. Some pointed due north, others north-west, so probably its true +course amounts to N.N.W. We came to a village about 2' W. of the +confluence, whose headman was affable and generous. The village has a +meadow some four miles wide on the land side, in which buffaloes +disport themselves, but they are very wild, and hide in the gigantic +grasses. Sorghum, ground-nuts, and voandzeia grow luxuriantly. The +Lofu is a quarter of a mile wide, but higher up three hundred yards. +The valley was always clouded over at night so I could not get an +observation except early in the morning when the cold had dissipated +the clouds. + +We remained here because two were lame, and all tired by the descent +of upwards of 2000 feet, and the headman sent for fish for us. He +dissuaded us strongly from attempting to go down the Liemba, as the +son of Nsania (Kapoma) was killing all who came that way in revenge +for what the Arabs had done to his father's people, and he might take +us for Arabs. A Suaheli Arab came in the evening and partly confirmed +the statements of the headman of Karambo; I resolved therefore to go +back to Chitimba's in the south, where the chief portion of the Arabs +are assembled, and hear from them more certainly. + +The last we heard of Liemba was that at a great way north-west, it is +dammed up by rocks, and where it surmounts these there is a great +waterfall. It does not, it is said, diminish in size so far, but by +bearings protracted it is two miles wide. + +_18th May, 1867._--Return to Mokambola's village, and leave for +Chitimba's. Baraka stopped behind at the village, and James ran away +to him, leaving his bundle, containing three chronometers, in the +path: I sent back for them, and James came up in the evening; he had +no complaint, and no excuse to make. The two think it will be easy to +return to their own country by begging, though they could not point it +out to me when we were much nearer to where it is supposed to be. + +_19th May, 1867._--Where we were brought to a standstill was miserably +cold (55°), so we had prayers and went on S. and S.W. to the village +of Chisáka. + +_20th May, 1867._--Chitimba's village was near in the same direction; +here we found a large party of Arabs, mostly black Suahelis. They +occupied an important portion of the stockaded village, and when I +came in, politely showed me to a shed where they are in the habit of +meeting. After explaining whence I had come, I showed them the +Sultan's letter. Harnees presented a goat, two fowls, and a quantity +of flour. It was difficult to get to the bottom of the Nsama affair, +but according to their version that chief sent an invitation to them, +and when they arrived called for his people, who came in crowds--as he +said to view the strangers. I suspect that the Arabs became afraid of +the crowds and began to fire; several were killed on both sides, and +Nsama fled, leaving his visitors in possession of the stockaded +village and all it contained. Others say that there was a dispute +about an elephant, and that Nsama's people were the aggressors. At any +rate it is now all confusion; those who remain at Nsama's village help +themselves to food in the surrounding villages and burn them, while +Chitimba has sent for the party who are quartered here to come to him. +An hour or two after we arrived a body of men came from Kasonso, with +the intention of proceeding into the country of Nsama, and if possible +catching Nsama, "he having broken public law by attacking people who +brought merchandise into the country." This new expedition makes the +Arabs resolve to go and do what they can to injure their enemy. It +will just be a plundering foray--each catching what he can, whether +animal or human, and retiring when it is no longer safe to plunder! + +This throws the barrier of a broad country between me and Lake "Moero" +in the west, but I trust in Providence a way will be opened. I think +now of going southwards and then westwards, thus making a long détour +round the disturbed district. + +The name of the principal Arab is Hamees Wodim Tagh, the other is Syde +bin Alie bin Mansure: they are connected with one of the most +influential native mercantile houses in Zanzibar. Hamees has been +particularly kind to me in presenting food, beads, cloth, and getting +information. Thami bin Snaelim is the Arab to whom my goods are +directed at Ujiji. + +_24th May, 1867._--At Chitimba's we are waiting to see what events +turn up to throw light on our western route. Some of the Arabs and +Kasonso's men went off to-day: they will bring information perhaps as +to Nsama's haunts, and then we shall move south and thence west. Wrote +to Sir Thomas Maclear, giving the position of Liemba and to Dr. +Seward, in case other letters miscarry. The hot season is beginning +now. This corresponds to July further south. + +Three goats were killed by a leopard close to the village in open day. + +_28th May, 1867._--Information came that Nsama begged pardon of the. +Arabs, and would pay all that they had lost. He did not know of his +people stealing from them: we shall hear in a day or two whether the +matter is to be patched up or not. While some believe his statements, +others say, "Nsama's words of peace are simply to gain time to make +another stockade:" in the mean time Kasonso's people will ravage all +his country on this eastern side. + +Hamees is very anxious that I should remain a few days longer, till +Kasonso's son, Kampamba, comes with _certain_ information, and then he +will see to our passing safely to Chiwéré's village from Kasonso's. +All have confidence in this last-named chief as an upright man. + +_1st June, 1867._--Another party of marauders went off this morning to +plunder Nsama's country to the west of the confluence of the Lofu as a +punishment for a breach of public law. The men employed are not very +willing to go, but when they taste the pleasure of plunder they will +relish it more! + +The watershed begins to have a northern slope about Moamba's, lat. 10° +10' S., but the streams are very tortuous, and the people have very +confused ideas as to where they run. The Lokhopa, for instance, was +asserted by all the men at Moamba's to flow into Lokholu, and then +into a river going to Liemba, but a young wife of Moamba, who seemed +very intelligent, maintained that Lokhopa and Lokholu went to the +Chambezé; I therefore put it down thus. The streams which feed the +Chambezé and the Liemba overlap each other, and it would require a +more extensive survey than I can give to disentangle them. + +North of Moamba, on the Merengé, the slope begins to Liemba. The Lofu +rises in Chibué's country, and with its tributaries we have long +ridges of denudation, each some 500 or 600 feet high, and covered with +green trees. The valleys of denudation enclosed by these hill ranges +guide the streams towards Liemba or the four rivers which flow into +it. The country gradually becomes lower, warmer, and tsetse and +mosquitoes appear; so at last we come to the remarkable cup-shaped +cavity in which Liemba reposes. Several streams fall down the nearly +perpendicular cliffs, and form beautiful cascades. The lines of +denudation are continued, one range rising behind another as far as +the eye can reach to the north and east of Liemba, and probably the +slope continues away down to Tanganyika. The watershed extends +westwards to beyond Casembe, and the Luapula, or Chambezé, rises in +the same parallels of latitude as does the Lofu and the Lonzna. + +The Arabs inform me that between this and the sea, about 200 miles +distant, lies the country of the Wasango--called: Usango--a fair +people, like Portuguese, and very friendly to strangers. The Wasango +possess plenty of cattle: their chief is called Meréré.[53] They count +this twenty-five days, while the distance thence to the sea at +Bagamoio is one month and twenty-five days--say 440 miles. Uchéré is +very far off northwards, but a man told me that he went to a +salt-manufactory in that direction in eight days from Kasonso's. +Meréré goes frequently on marauding expeditions for cattle, and is +instigated thereto by his mother. + +What we understand by primeval forest is but seldom seen in the +interior here, though the country cannot be described otherwise than +as generally covered with interminable forests. Insects kill or dwarf +some trees, and men maim others for the sake of the bark-cloth; +elephants break down a great number, and it is only here and there +that gigantic specimens are seen: they may be expected in shut-in +valleys among mountains, but on the whole the trees are scraggy, and +the varieties not great. The different sorts of birds which sing among +the branches seem to me to exceed those of the Zambesi region, but I +do not shoot them: the number of new notes I hear astonishes me. + +The country in which we now are is called by the Arabs and natives +Ulungu, that farther north-west is named Marunga. Hamees is on +friendly terms with the Mazitu (Watuta) in the east, who do not +plunder. The chief sent a man to Kasonso lately, and he having +received a present went away highly pleased. + +Hamees is certainly very anxious to secure my safety. Some men came +from the N.E. to inquire about the disturbance here and they recommend +that I should go with them, and then up the east side of the Lake to +Ujiji; but that would ruin my plan of discovering Moero and afterwards +following the watershed, so as to be certain that this is either the +watershed of the Congo or Kile. He was not well pleased when I +preferred to go south and then westwards, as it looks like rejecting +his counsel; but he said if I waited till his people came, then we +should be able to speak with more certainty. + +On inquiring if any large mountains exist in this country, I was told +that Moufipa, or Fipa, opposite the lower end of the Lake, is +largest--one can see Tanganyika from it. It probably gives rise to the +Nkalambwé River and the Luazé. + +There is nothing interesting in a heathen town. All are busy in +preparing food or clothing, mats or baskets, whilst the women are +cleaning or grinding their corn, which involves much hard labour. They +first dry this in the sun, then put it into a mortar, and afterwards +with a flat basket clean off the husks and the dust, and grind it +between two stones, the next thing is to bring wood and water to cook +it. The chief here was aroused the other day, and threatened to burn +his own house and all his property because the people stole from it, +but he did not proceed so far: it was probably a way of letting the +Arab dependants know that he was aroused. + +Some of the people who went to fight attacked a large village, and +killed several men; but in shooting in a bushy place they killed one +of their own party and wounded another. + +On inquiring of an Arab who had sailed on Tanganyika which way the +water flowed, he replied to the south! + +The wagtails build in the thatch of the huts; they are busy, and men +and other animals are active in the same way. + +I am rather perplexed how to proceed. Some Arabs seem determined to go +westwards as soon as they can make it up with Nsama, whilst others +distrust him. One man will send his people to pick up what ivory they +can, but he himself will retire to the Usango country. Nsama is +expected to-day or to-morrow. It would be such a saving of time and +fatigue for us to go due west rather than south, and then west, but I +feel great hesitation as to setting out on the circuitous route. +Several Arabs came from the Liemba side yesterday; one had sailed on +Tanganyika, and described the winds there as very baffling, but no one +of them has a clear idea of the Lake. They described the lower part as +a "sea," and thought it different from Tanganyika. + +Close observation of the natives of Ulungu makes me believe them to +be extremely polite. The mode of salutation among relatives is to +place the hands round each other's chests kneeling, they then clap +their hands close to the ground. Some more abject individuals kiss the +soil before a chief; the generality kneel only, with the fore-arms +close to the ground, and the head bowed down to them, saying, "O +Ajadla chiusa, Mari a bwino." The Usanga say, "Ajé senga." The +clapping of hands to superiors, and even equals, is in some villages a +perpetually recurring sound. Aged persons are usually saluted: how +this extreme deference to each other could have arisen, I cannot +conceive; it does not seem to be fear of each other that elicits it. +Even the chiefs inspire no fear, and those cruel old platitudes about +governing savages by fear seem unknown, yet governed they certainly +are, and upon the whole very well. The people were not very willing to +go to punish Nsama's breach of public law, yet, on the decision of the +chiefs, they went, and came back, one with a wooden stool, another +with a mat, a third with a calabash of ground-nuts or some dried meat, +a hoe, or a bow--poor, poor pay for a fortnight's hard work hunting +fugitives and burning villages. + +_16th June, 1867._--News came to-day that an Arab party in the +south-west, in Lunda, lost about forty people by the small-pox +("ndué"), and that the people there, having heard of the disturbance +with Nsama, fled from the Arabs, and would sell neither ivory nor +food: this looks like another obstacle to our progress thither. + +_17th-19th June, 1867._--Hamees went to meet the party from the +south-west, probably to avoid bringing the small-pox here. They remain +at about two hours' distance. Hamees reports that though the strangers +had lost a great many people by small-pox, they had brought good news +of certain Arabs still further west: one, Seide ben Umale, or Salem, +lived at a village near Casembe, ten days distant, and another, Juma +Merikano, or Katata Katanga, at another village further north, and +Seide ben Habib was at Phueto, which is nearer Tanganyika. This party +comprises the whole force of Hamees, and he now declares that he will +go to Nsama and make the matter up, as he thinks that he is afraid to +come here, and so he will make the first approach to friendship. + +On pondering over the whole subject, I see that, tiresome as it is to +wait, it is better to do so than go south and then west, for if I +should go I shall miss seeing Moero, which is said to be three days +from Nsama's present abode. His people go there for salt, and I could +not come to it from the south without being known to them, and perhaps +considered to be an Arab. Hamees remarked that it was the Arab way +first to smooth the path before entering upon it; sending men and +presents first, thereby ascertaining the disposition of the +inhabitants. He advises patience, and is in hopes of making a peace +with Nsama. That his hopes are not unreasonable, he mentioned that +when the disturbance began, Nsama sent men with two tusks to the +village whence he had just been expelled, offering thereby to make the +matter up, but the Arabs, suspecting treachery, fired upon the +carriers and killed them, then ten goats and one tusk were sent with +the same object, and met with a repulse; Hamees thinks that had he +been there himself the whole matter would have been settled amicably. + +All complain of cold here. The situation is elevated, and we are +behind a clump of trees on the rivulet Chiloa, which keeps the sun off +us in the mornings. This cold induces the people to make big fires in +their huts, and frequently their dwellings are burned. Minimum +temperature is as low as 46°; sometimes 33°. + +_24th June, 1867._--The Arabs are all busy reading their Koran, or +Kurán, and in praying for direction; to-morrow they will call a +meeting to deliberate as to what steps they will take in the Nsama +affair. Hamees, it seems, is highly thought of by that chief, who +says, "Let him come, and all will be right." Hamees proposes to go +with but a few people. These Zanzibar men are very different from the +slavers of the Waiyau country. + +_25th June, 1867._--The people, though called, did not assemble, but +they will come to-morrow. + +Young wagtails nearly full-fledged took wing, leaving one in the nest; +from not being molested by the people they took no precautions, and +ran out of the nest on the approach of the old ones, making a loud +chirping. The old ones tried to induce the last one to come out too, +by flying to the nest, and then making a sally forth, turning round +immediately to see if he followed: he took a few days longer. + +It was decided at the meeting that Hamees, with a few people only, +should go to Nsama on the first day after the appearance of the new +moon (they are very particular on this point); the present month +having been an unhappy one they will try the next. + +_28th June, 1867._--A wedding took place among the Arabs to-day. About +a hundred blank cartridges were fired off, and a procession of males, +dressed in their best, marched through the village. They sang with all +their might, though with but little music in the strain. Women +sprinkled grain on their heads as wishes for plenty.[54] + +Nsama is said to be waiting for the Arabs in his new stockade. It is +impossible to ascertain exactly who is to blame in this matter, for I +hear one side only; but the fact of the chiefs in this part of the +country turning out so readily to punish his breach of public law, and +no remonstrance coming from him, makes me suspect that Nsama is the +guilty party. If he had been innocent he certainly would have sent to +ask the Bulungu, or Bäulungu, why they had attacked his people without +cause. + + +[Here is an entry concerning the tribe living far to the East.] + + +The Wasongo seem much like Zulus; they go naked, and have prodigious +numbers of cattle, which occupy the same huts with their owners. Oxen +two shukahs each; plenty of milk. Meréré is very liberal with his +cattle, and gives every one an ox: there is no rice, but maize and +maëre. Hamees left the people to cultivate rice. Meréré had plenty of +ivory when the Arabs came first, but now has none. + +_1st July, 1867._--New moon to-day. They are very particular as to the +time of offering up prayers, and in making charms. One to-night was at +10 P.M. exactly. + +A number of cabalistic figures were drawn by Halfani, and it is +believed that by these Nsama's whereabouts may be ascertained; they +are probably remains of the secret arts which prevailed among Arabs +before Mahomet appeared. These Suaheli Arabs appear to have come down +the coast before that Prophet was born. + +_3rd July, 1867._--Kasonso's people are expected. All the captives +that were taken are to be returned, and a quantity of cloth given to +Nsama in addition: so far all seems right. The new moon will appear +to-night. The Arabs count from one appearance to the next, not, as we +do, from its conjunction with the sun to the next. + +_4th July, 1867._--Katawanya came from near Liemba to join the +peacemakers. He and his party arrived at Liemba after we did; he sent +his people all round to seek ivory; they don't care for anything but +ivory, and cannot understand why I don't do the same. + +_6th July, 1867._--An earthquake happened at 3.30 P.M., accompanied +with a hollow rumbling sound; it made me feel as if afloat, but it +lasted only a few seconds. The boys came running to ask me what it +was. Nowhere could it be safer; the huts will not fall, and there are +no high rocks near. Barometer 25.0. Temperature 68° 5'. Heavy cumuli +hanging about; no rain afterwards. + +_7th July, 1867._--Hamees started this morning with about 300 +followers dressed in all their finery, and he declares that his sole +object is peace. Kasonso, Mombo, Chitimba send their people, and go +themselves to lend all their influence in favour of peace. Syde stops +here. Before starting Syde put some incense on hot coals, and all the +leaders of the party joined in a short prayer; they seem earnest and +sincere in their incantations, according to their knowledge and +belief. I wished to go too, but Hamees objected, as not being quite +sure whether Nsama would be friendly, and he would not like anything +to befall me when with him. + +_8th July, 1867._--Kasonso found an excuse for not going himself. Two +men, Arabs it was said, came to Chibué's and were there killed, and +Kasonso must go to see about it. The people who go carry food with +them, evidently not intending to live by plunder this time. + +While the peacemakers are gone I am employing time in reading Smith's +'Bible Dictionary,' and calculating different positions which have +stood over in travelling. I don't succeed well in the Bäulungu +dialect. + +The owners of huts lent to strangers have a great deal of toil +in consequence; they have to clean them after the visitors have +withdrawn; then, in addition to this, to clean themselves, all +soiled by the dust left by the lodgers; their bodies and clothes +have to be cleansed afterwards--they add food too in all cases of +acquaintanceship, and then we have to remember the labour of preparing +that food. My remaining here enables me to observe that both men and +women are in almost constant employment. The men are making mats, or +weaving, or spinning; no one could witness their assiduity in their +little affairs and conclude that they were a lazy people. The only +idle time I observe here is in the mornings about seven o'clock, when +all come and sit to catch the first rays of the sun as he comes over +our clump of trees, but even that time is often taken as an +opportunity for stringing beads. + +I hear that some of Nsama's people crossed the Lovu at Karambo to +plunder, in retaliation for what they have suffered, and the people +there were afraid to fish, lest they should be caught by them at a +distance from their stockades. + +The Bäulungu men are in general tall and well formed, they use bows +over six feet in length, and but little bent. The facial angle is as +good in most cases as in Europeans, and they have certainly as little +of the "lark-heel" as whites. One or two of the under front teeth are +generally knocked out in women, and also in men. + +_14th July, 1867._--Syde added to his other presents some more beads: +all have been very kind, which I attribute in a great measure to Seyed +Majid's letter. Hamees crossed the Lovu to-day at a fordable spot. The +people on the other side refused to go with a message to Nsama, so +Hamees had to go and compel them by destroying their stockade. A +second village acted in the same way, though told that it was only +peace that was sought of Nsama: this stockade suffered the same fate, +and then the people went to Nsama, and he showed no reluctance to have +intercourse. He gave abundance of food, pombe, and bananas; the +country being extremely fertile. Nsama also came and ratified the +peace by drinking blood with several of the underlings of Hamees. He +is said to be an enormously bloated old man, who cannot move unless +carried, and women are constantly in attendance pouring pombe into +him. He gave Hamees ten tusks, and promised him twenty more, and also +to endeavour to make his people return what goods they plundered from +the Arabs, and he is to send his people over here to call us after +the new moon appears. + +It is tiresome beyond measure to wait so long, but I hope to see Moero +for this exercise of patience, and I could not have visited it had +Hamees not succeeded in making peace. + +_17th July, 1867._--A lion roared very angrily at the village last +night, he was probably following the buffaloes that sometimes come +here to drink at night: they are all very shy, and so is all the game, +from fear of arrows. + +A curious disease has attacked my left eyelid and surrounding parts: a +slight degree of itchiness is followed by great swelling of the part. +It must be a sort of lichen; exposure to the sun seems to cure it, and +this leads me to take long walks therein. This is about 30° 19' E. +long.; lat. 8° 57' 55" S. + +_24th July, 1867._--A fire broke out at 4 A.M., and there being no +wind the straw roofs were cleared off in front of it on our side of +the village. The granaries were easily unroofed, as the roof is not +attached to the walls, and the Arabs tried to clear a space on their +side, but were unable, and then moved all their ivory and goods +outside the stockade; their side of the village was all consumed, and +three goats perished in the flames. + +Chitimba has left us from a fear of his life, he says; it is probable +that he means this flight to be used as an excuse to Nsama after we +are gone. "And I, too, was obliged to flee from my village to save my +life! What could I do?" This is to be his argument, I suspect. + +A good many slaves came from the two villages that were destroyed: on +inquiry I was told that these would be returned when Nsama gave the +ivory promised. + +When Nsama was told that an Englishman wished to go past him to Moero, +he replied, "Bring him, and I shall send men to take him thither." + +Hamees is building a "tembé," or house, with a flat roof, and walls +plastered over with mud, to keep his ivory from fire while he is +absent. We expect that Nsama will send for us a few days after the 2nd +August, when the new moon appears; if they do not come soon Hamees +will send men to Nsama without waiting for his messengers. + +_28th July, 1867._--Prayers, with the Litany.[55] Slavery is a great +evil wherever I have seen it. A poor old woman and child are among the +captives, the boy about three years old seems a mother's pet. His feet +are sore from walking in the sun. He was offered for two fathoms, and +his mother for one fathom; he understood it all, and cried bitterly, +clinging to his mother. She had, of course, no power to help him; they +were separated at Karungu afterwards. + +[The above is an episode of every-day occurrence in the wake of the +slave-dealer. "Two fathoms," mentioned as the price of the boy's +life--the more valuable of the two, means four yards of unbleached +calico, which is a universal article of barter throughout the greater +part of Africa: the mother was bought for two yards. The reader must +not think that there are no lower prices; in the famines which succeed +the slave-dealer's raids, boys and girls are at times to be purchased +by the dealer for a few handfuls of maize.] + +_29th July, 1867._--Went 2 1/2 hours west to village of Ponda, where a +head Arab, called by the natives Tipo Tipo, lives; his name is Hamid +bin Mahamed bin Juma Borajib. He presented a goat, a piece of white +calico, and four big bunches of beads, also a bag of Holcus sorghum, +and apologised because it was so little. He had lost much by Nsama; +and received two arrow wounds there; they had only twenty guns at the +time, but some were in the stockade, and though the people of Nsama +were very numerous they beat them off, and they fled carrying the +bloated carcase of Nsama with them. Some reported that boxes were +found in the village, which belonged to parties who had perished +before, but Syde assured me that this was a mistake. + +Moero is three days distant, and as Nsama's people go thither to +collect salt on its banks, it would have been impossible for me to +visit it from the south without being seen, and probably suffering +loss. + +The people seem to have no family names. A man takes the name of his +mother, or should his father die he may assume that. Marriage is +forbidden to the first, second, and third degrees: they call first and +second cousins brothers and sisters. + +A woman, after cupping her child's temples for sore eyes, threw the +blood over the roof of her hut as a charm. + +[In the above process a goat's horn is used with a small hole in the +pointed end. The base is applied to the part from which the blood is +to be withdrawn, and the operator, with a small piece of chewed +india-rubber in his mouth, exhausts the air, and at the proper moment +plasters the small hole up with his tongue. When the cupping-horn is +removed, some cuts are made with a small knife, and it is again +applied. As a rough appliance, it is a very good one, and in great +repute everywhere.] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[50] It subsequently proved to be the southern extremity of this great +Lake. + +[51] Elais, sp.(?). + +[52] This is a common symptom--men will suddenly lose all power in the +lower extremities, and remain helpless where they fall.--ED. + +[53] The men heard in 1873 that he had been killed. + +[54] This comes near to the custom of throwing rice after the bride +and bridegroom in England.--ED. + +[55] In his Journal the Doctor writes "S," and occasionally "Service," +whenever a Sunday entry occurs. We may add that at all times during +his travels the Services of the Church of England were resorted to by +him.--ED. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + Peace negotiations with Nsama. Geographical gleanings. Curious + spider. Reach the River Lofu. Arrives at Nsama's. Hamees marries + the daughter of Nsama. Flight of the bride. Conflagration in + Arab quarters. Anxious to visit Lake Moero. Arab burial. Serious + illness. Continues journey. Slave-traders on the march. Reaches + Moero. Description of the Lake. Information concerning the + Chambezé and Luapula. Hears of Lake Bemba. Visits spot of Dr. + Lacerda's death. Casembe apprised of Livingstone's approach. + Meets Mohamad Bogharib. Lakelet Mofwé. Arrives at Casembe's + town. + + +_1st August, 1867._--Hamees sends off men to trade at Chiweré's. +_Zikwé_ is the name for locust here. Nsigé or Zigé and Pansi the +Suaheli names. + +A perforated stone had been placed on one of the poles which form the +gateway into this stockade, it is oblong, seven or eight inches long +by four broad, and bevelled off on one side and the diameter of the +hole in the middle is about an inch and a half: it shows evidence of +the boring process in rings. It is of hard porphyry and of a pinkish +hue, and resembles somewhat a weight for a digging stick I saw in 1841 +in the hands of a Bushwoman: I saw one at a gateway near Kasonso's. +The people know nothing of its use except as a charm to keep away evil +from the village. + +_2nd August, 1867._--Chronometer A. stopped to-day without any +apparent cause except the earthquake. + +It is probably malaria which causes that constant singing in the ears +ever since my illness at Lake Liemba. + +_3rd August, 1867._--We expect a message from Nsama every day, the +new moon having appeared on the first of this month, and he was to +send after its appearance. + +_5th August, 1867._--Men came yesterday with the message that Hamees +must wait a little longer, as Nsama had not yet got all the ivory and +the goods which were stolen: they remained over yesterday. The +headman, Katala, says that Lunda is eight days from Nsama or Moero, +and in going we cross a large river called Movue, which flows into +Luapula; another river called Mokobwa comes from the south-east into +Moero. Itawa is the name of Nsama's country and people. + +A day distant from Nsama's place there is a hot fountain called "Paka +pezhia," and around it the earth shakes at times: it is possible that +the earthquake we felt here may be connected with this same centre of +motion. + +_6th August, 1867._--The weather is becoming milder. An increase of +cold was caused by the wind coming from the south. We have good +accounts of the Wasongo from all the Arabs, their houses built for +cattle are flat-roofed and enormously large; one, they say, is a +quarter of a mile long. Meréré the chief has his dwelling-house within +it: milk, butter, cheese, are in enormous quantities; the tribe, too, +is very large. I fear that they may be spoiled by the Arab underlings. + +_7th August, 1867._--Some of my people went down to Karambo and were +detained by the chief, who said "I won't let you English go away and +leave me in trouble with these Arabs." + +A slave had been given in charge to a man here and escaped, the Arabs +hereupon went to Karambo and demanded payment from the chief there; he +offered clothing, but they refused it, and would have a man; he then +offered a man, but this man having two children they demanded all +three. They bully as much as they please by their fire-arms. After +being spoken to by my people the Arabs came away. The chief begged +that I would come and visit him once more, for only one day, but it +is impossible, for we expect to move directly. I sent the information +to Hamees, who replied that they had got a clue to the man who was +wiling away their slaves from them. My people saw others of the low +squad which always accompanies the better-informed Arabs bullying the +people of another village, and taking fowls and food without payment. +Slavery makes a bad neighbourhood! + +Hamees is on friendly terms with a tribe of Mazitu who say that they +have given up killing people. They lifted a great many cattle, but +have very few now; some of them came with him to show the way to +Kasonso's. + +Slaves are sold here in the same open way that the business is carried +on in Zanzibar slave-market. A man goes about calling out the price he +wants for the slave, who walks behind him; if a woman, she is taken +into a hut to be examined in a state of nudity. + +Some of the Arabs believe that meteoric stones are thrown at Satan for +his wickedness. They believe that cannon were taken up Kilimanjaro by +the first Arabs who came into the country, and there they lie. They +deny that Van der Decken did more than go round a portion of the base +of the mountain; he could not get on the mass of the mountain: all his +donkeys and some of his men died by the cold. Hamees seems to be +Cooley's great geographical oracle! + +The information one can cull from the Arabs respecting the country on +the north-west is very indefinite. They magnify the difficulties in +the way by tales of the cannibal tribes, where anyone dying is bought +and no one ever buried, but this does not agree with the fact, which +also is asserted, that the cannibals have plenty of sheep and goats. +The Rua is about ten days west of Tanganyika, and five days beyond it +a lake or river ten miles broad is reached; it is said to be called +Logarawá. All the water flows northwards, but no reliance can be +placed on the statements. Kiombo is said to be chief of Rua country. + +Another man asserts that Tanganyika flows northwards and forms a large +water beyond Uganda, but no dependence can be placed on the statements +of these half Arabs; they pay no attention to anything but ivory and +food. + +_25th August, 1867._--Nsama requested the Arabs to give back his son +who was captured; some difficulty was made about this by his captor, +but Hamees succeeded in getting him and about nine others, and they +are sent off to-day. We wait only for the people, who are scattered +about the country. Hamees presented cakes, flour, a fowl and leg of +goat, with a piece of eland meat: this animal goes by the same name +here as at Kolobeng--"Pofu."[56] + +A fig-tree here has large knobs on the bark, like some species of +acacia; and another looks like the Malolo of the Zambesi magnified. A +yellow wood gives an odour like incense when burned. + +A large spider makes a nest inside the huts. It consists of a piece of +pure white paper, an inch and a half broad, stuck flat on the wall; +under this some forty or fifty eggs are placed, and then a quarter of +an inch of thinner paper is put round it, apparently to fasten the +first firmly. When making the paper the spider moves itself over the +surface in wavy lines; she then sits on it with her eight legs spread +over all for three weeks continuously, catching and eating any +insects, as cockroaches, that come near her nest. After three weeks +she leaves it to hunt for food, but always returns at night: the +natives do not molest it. + +A small ant masters the common fly by seizing a wing or leg, and +holding on till the fly is tired out; at first the fly can move about +on the wing without inconvenience, but it is at last obliged to +succumb to an enemy very much smaller than itself. + +A species of Touraco, new to me, has a broad yellow mask on the upper +part of the bill and forehead; the topknot is purple, the wings the +same as in other species, but the red is roseate. The yellow of the +mask plates is conspicuous at a distance. + +A large callosity forms on the shoulders of the regular Unyamwesi +porters, from the heavy weights laid on them. I have noticed them an +inch and a half thick along the top of the shoulders. An old man was +pointed out to me who had once carried five frasilahs (= 175 lbs.) of +ivory from his own country to the coast. + +_30th August, 1867._--We marched to-day from Chitimba's village after +three months and ten days' delay. On reaching Ponda, 2-1/2 hours +distant, we found Tipo Tipo, or Hamidi bin Mohamad, gone on, and so we +followed him. Passed a fine stream flowing S.W. to the Lofu. Tipo Tipo +gave me a fine fat goat. + +_31st August, 1867._--Pass along a fine undulating district, with much +country covered with forest, but many open glades, and fine large +trees along the water-courses. We were on the northern slope of the +watershed, and could see far. Crossed two fine rivulets. The oozes +still full and flowing. + +_1st September, 1867._--We had to march in the afternoon on account of +a dry patch existing in the direct way. We slept without water, though +by diverging a few miles to the north we should have crossed many +streams, but this is the best path for the whole year. + +Baraka went back to Tipo Tipo's village, thus putting his intention of +begging among the Arab slaves into operation. He has only one +complaint, and that is dislike to work. He tried perseveringly to get +others to run away with him; lost the medicine-box, six table-cloths, +and all our tools by giving his load off to a country lad while he +went to collect mushrooms: he will probably return to Zanzibar, and be +a slave to the Arab slaves after being a perpetual nuisance to us for +upwards of a year. + +_2nd September, 1867._--When we reached the ford of the Lofu, we found +that we were at least a thousand feet below Chitimba's. The last six +hours of our march were without water, but when near to Chungu's +village at the ford we came to fine flowing rivulets, some ten feet or +so broad. Here we could see westwards and northwards the long lines of +hills of denudation in Nsama's country, which till lately was densely +peopled. Nsama is of the Babemba family. Kasonso, Chitimba, Kiwé, +Urongwé, are equals and of one family, Urungai. Chungu is a pleasant +person, and liberal according to his means. Large game is very +abundant through all this country. + +The Lofu at the ford was 296 feet, the water flowing briskly over +hardened sandstone flag, and from thigh to waist deep; elsewhere it is +a little narrower, but not passable except by canoes. + +_4th and 5th September, 1867._--Went seven hours west of the Lofu to a +village called Hara, one of those burned by Hamees because the people +would not take a peaceful message to Nsama. This country is called +Itawa, and Hara is one of the districts. We waited at Hara to see if +Nsama wished us any nearer to himself. He is very much afraid of the +Arabs, and well he may be, for he was until lately supposed to be +invincible. He fell before twenty muskets, and this has caused a panic +throughout the country. The land is full of food, though the people +have nearly all fled. The ground-nuts are growing again for want of +reapers; and 300 people living at free-quarters make no impression on +the food. + +_9th September, 1867._--Went three hours west of Hara, and came to +Nsama's new stockade, built close by the old one burned by Tipo Tipo, +as Hamidi bin Mohamed was named by Nsama.[57] I sent a message to +Nsama, and received an invitation to come and visit him, but bring no +guns. A large crowd of his people went with us, and before we came to +the inner stockade they felt my clothes to see that no fire-arms were +concealed about my person. When we reached Nsama, we found a very old +man, with a good head and face and a large abdomen, showing that he +was addicted to pombe: his people have to carry him. I gave him a +cloth, and asked for guides to Moero, which he readily granted, and +asked leave to feel my clothes and hair. I advised him to try and live +at peace, but his people were all so much beyond the control of +himself and headmen, that at last, after scolding them, he told me +that he would send for me by night, and then we could converse, but +this seems to have gone out of his head. He sent me a goat, flour, and +pombe, and next day we returned to Hara. + +Nsama's people have generally small, well-chiseled features, and many +are really handsome, and have nothing of the West Coast Negro about +them, but they file their teeth to sharp points, and greatly disfigure +their mouths. The only difference between them and Europeans is the +colour. Many of the men have very finely-formed heads, and so have the +women; and the fashion of wearing the hair sets off their foreheads to +advantage. The forehead is shaved off to the crown, the space +narrowing as it goes up; then the back hair, is arranged into knobs of +about ten rows. + +_10th September, 1867._--Some people of Ujiji have come to Nsama's to +buy ivory with beads, but, finding that the Arabs have forestalled +them in the market, they intend to return in their dhow, or rather +canoe, which is manned by about fifty hands. My goods are reported +safe, and the meat of the buffaloes which died in the way is there, +and sun-dried. I sent a box, containing papers, books, and some +clothes, to Ujiji. + +_14th September, 1867._--I remained at Hara, for I was ill, and Hamees +had no confidence in Nsama, because he promised his daughter to wife +by way of cementing the peace, but had not given her. Nsama also told +Hamees to stay at Hara, and he would send him ivory for sale, but none +came, nor do people come here to sell provisions, as they do +elsewhere; so Hamees will return to Chitimba's, to guard his people +and property there, and send on Syde Hamidi and his servants to +Lopéré, Kabuiré, and Moero, to buy ivory. He advised me to go with +them, as he has no confidence in Nsama; and Hamidi thought that this +was the plan to be preferred: it would be slower, as they would +purchase ivory on the road, but safer to pass his country altogether +than trust myself in his power. + +The entire population of the country has received a shock from the +conquest of Nsama, and their views of the comparative values of bows +and arrows and guns have undergone a great change. Nsama was the +Napoleon of these countries; no one could stand before him, hence the +defeat of the invincible Nsama has caused a great panic. The Arabs say +that they lost about fifty men in all: Nsama must have lost at least +an equal number. The people seem intelligent, and will no doubt act on +the experience so dearly bought. + +In the midst of the doubts of Hamees a daughter of Nsama came this +afternoon to be a wife and cementer of the peace! She came riding +"pickaback" on a man's shoulders; a nice, modest, good-looking young +woman, her hair rubbed all over with _nkola_, a red pigment, made from +the camwood, and much used as an ornament. She was accompanied by +about a dozen young and old female attendants, each carrying a small +basket with some provisions, as cassava, ground-nuts, &c. The Arabs +were all dressed in their finery, and the slaves, in fantastic +dresses, flourished swords, fired guns, and yelled. When she was +brought to Hamees' hut she descended, and with her maids went into the +hut. She and her attendants had all small, neat features. I had been +sitting with Hamees, and now rose up and went away; as I passed him, +he spoke thus to himself: "Hamees Wadim Tagh! see to what you have +brought yourself!!" + +_15th September, 1867._--A guide had come from Nsama to take us to the +countries beyond his territory. Hamees set off this morning with his +new wife to his father-in-law, but was soon met by two messengers, who +said that he was not to come yet. We now sent for all the people who +were out to go west or north-west without reference to Nsama. + +_16th-18th September, 1867._--Hamidi went to Nsama to try and get +guides, but he would not let him come into his stockade unless he came +up to it without either gun or sword. Hamidi would not go in on these +conditions, but Nsama promised guides, and they came after a visit by +Hamees to Nsama, which he paid without telling any of us: he is +evidently ashamed of his father-in-law. + +Those Arabs who despair of ivory invest their remaining beads and +cloth in slaves. + +_20th September, 1867._--I had resolved to go to Nsama's, and thence +to Moero to-day, but Hamees sent to say that men had come, and we were +all to go with them on the 22nd. Nsama was so vacillating that I had +no doubt but this was best. + +Hamees' wife, seeing the preparations that were made for starting, +thought that her father was to be attacked, so she, her attendants, +and the guides decamped by night. Hamees went again to Nsama and got +other guides to enable us to go off at once. + +_22nd September, 1867._--We went north for a couple of hours, then +descended into the same valley as that in which I found Nsama. This +valley is on the slope of the watershed, and lies east and west: a +ridge of dark-red sandstone, covered with trees, forms its side on the +south. Other ridges like this make the slope have the form of a stair +with huge steps: the descent is gradually lost as we insensibly climb +up the next ridge. The first plain between the steps is at times +swampy, and the paths are covered with the impressions of human feet, +which, being hardened by the sun, make walking on their uneven surface +very difficult. Mosquitoes again; we had lost them during our long +stay on the higher lands behind us. + +_23rd September, 1867._--A fire had broken out the night after we left +Hara, and the wind being strong, it got the upper hand, and swept away +at once the whole of the temporary village of dry straw huts: Hamees +lost all his beads, guns, powder, and cloth, except one bale. The news +came this morning, and prayers were at once offered for him with +incense; some goods will also be sent, as a little incense was. The +prayer-book was held in the smoke of the incense while the responses +were made. These Arabs seem to be very religious in their way: the +prayers were chiefly to Harasji, some relative of Mohamad. + +_24th September, 1867._--Roused at 3 A.M. to be told that the next +stage had no water, and we should be oppressed with the midday heat if +we went now. We were to go at 2 P.M. Hamidi's wife being ill yesterday +put a stop to our march on that afternoon. After the first hour we +descended from the ridge to which we had ascended, we had then a wall +of tree-covered rocks on our left of more than a thousand feet in +altitude; after flanking it for a while we went up, and then along it +northwards till it vanished in forest. Slept without a fresh supply of +water. + +_25th September, 1867._--Off at 5.30 A.M., through the same well-grown +forest we have passed and came to a village stockade, where the gates +were shut, and the men all outside, in fear of the Arabs; we then +descended from the ridge on which it stood, about a thousand feet, +into an immense plain, with a large river in the distance, some ten +miles off. + +_26th September, 1867._--Two and a half hours brought us to the large +river we saw yesterday; it is more than a mile wide and full of +papyrus and other aquatic plants and very difficult to ford, as the +papyrus roots are hard to the bare feet, and we often plunged into +holes up to the waist. A loose mass floated in the middle of our path; +one could sometimes get on along this while it bent and heaved under +the weight, but through it he would plunge and find great difficulty +to get out: the water under this was very cold from evaporation; it +took an hour and a half to cross it. It is called Chiséra, and winds +away to the west to fall into the Kalongosi and Moero. Many animals, +as elephants, tahetsis, zebras, and buffaloes, graze on the long +sloping banks of about a quarter of a mile down, while the ranges of +hills we crossed as mere ridges now appear behind us in the south. + +_27th September, 1867._--The people are numerous and friendly. One +elephant was killed, and we remained to take the ivory from the dead +beast; buffaloes and zebras were also killed. It was so cloudy that no +observations could be taken to determine our position, but Chiséra +rises in Lopéré. Further west it is free of papyrus, and canoes are +required to cross it. + +_28th September, 1867._--Two hours north brought us to the Kamosenga, +a river eight yards wide, of clear water which ran strongly among +aquatic plants. Hippopotami, buffalo, and zebra abound. This goes into +the Chiséra eastwards; country flat and covered with dense tangled +bush. Cassias and another tree of the pea family are now in flower, +and perfume the air. Other two hours took us round a large bend of +this river. + +_30th September, 1867._.--We crossed the Kamosenga or another, and +reach Karungu's. The Kamosenga divides Lopéré from Itawa, the latter +being Nsama's country; Lopéré is north-west of it. + +_1st October, 1867._--Karungu was very much afraid of us; he kept +every one out of his stockade at first, but during the time the Arabs +sent forward to try and conciliate other chiefs he gradually became +more friendly. He had little ivory to sell, and of those who had, +Mtété or Mtéma seemed inclined to treat the messengers roughly. Men +were also sent to Nsama asking him to try and induce Mtéma and +Chikongo to be friendly and sell ivory and provisions, but he replied +that these chiefs were not men under him, and if they thought +themselves strong enough to contend against guns he had nothing to say +to them. Other chiefs threatened to run away as soon as they saw the +Arabs approaching. These were assured that we meant to pass through +the country alone, and if they gave us guides to show us how, we +should avoid the villages altogether, and proceed to the countries +where ivory was to be bought; however, the panic was too great, no one +would agree to our overtures, and at last when we did proceed a chief +on the River Choma fulfilled his threat and left us three empty +villages. There were no people to sell though the granaries were +crammed, and it was impossible to prevent the slaves from stealing. + +_3rd-4th October, 1867._--When Chikongo heard Tipo Tipo's message +about buying ivory he said, "And when did Tipo Tipo place ivory in my +country that he comes seeking it?" Yet he sent a tusk and said "That +is all I have, and he is not to come here." Their hostile actions are +caused principally by fear. "If Nsama could not stand before the +Malongwana or traders, how can we face them?" I wished to go on to +Moero, but all declare that our ten guns would put all the villages to +flight: they are terror-struck. First rains of this season on the 5th. + +_10th October, 1867._--I had a long conversation with Syde, who thinks +that the sun rises and sets because the Koran says so, and he sees it. +He asserts that Jesus foretold the coming of Mohamad; and that it was +not Jesus who suffered on the cross but a substitute, it being +unlikely that a true prophet would be put to death so ignominiously. +He does not understand how we can be glad that our Saviour died for +our sins. + +_12th October, 1867._--An elephant killed by Tipo Tipo's men. It is +always clouded over, and often not a breath of air stirring. + +_16th October, 1867._--A great many of the women of this district and +of Lopéré have the swelled thyroid gland called _goitre_ or Derbyshire +neck; men, too, appeared with it, and they in addition have hydrocele +of large size. + +An Arab who had been long ill at Chitimba's died yesterday, and was +buried in the evening. No women were allowed to come near. A long +silent prayer was uttered over the corpse when it was laid beside the +grave, and then a cloth was held over as men in it deposited the +remains beneath sticks placed slanting on the side of the bottom of +the grave; this keeps the earth from coming directly into contact with +the body. + +A feast was made by the friends of the departed, and portions sent to +all who had attended the funeral: I got a good share. + +_18th October, 1867._--The last we hear of Nsama is that he will not +interfere with Chikongo. Two wives beat drums and he dances to them; +he is evidently in his dotage. We hear of many Arabs to the west of +us. + +_20th October, 1867._--Very ill; I am always so when I have no +work--sore bones--much headache; then lost power over the muscles of +the back, as at Liemba; no appetite and much thirst. The fever +uninfluenced by medicine. + +_21st October, 1867._--Syde sent his men to build a new hut in a +better situation. I hope it may be a healthful one for me. + +_22nd October, 1867._--The final message from Chikongo was a +discouraging one--no ivory. The Arabs, however, go west with me as far +as Chisawé's, who, being accustomed to Arabs from Tanganyika, will +give me men to take me on to Moero: the Arabs will then return, and we +shall move on. + +_23rd October, 1867._--Tipo Tipo gave Karungu some cloth, and this +chief is "looking for something" to give him in return; this detains +us one day more. + +When a slave wishes to change his master he goes to one whom he likes +better and breaks a spear or a bow in his presence--the transference +is irrevocable. This curious custom prevails on the Zambesi, and also +among the Wanyamwesi; if the old master wishes to recover his slave +the new one may refuse to part with him except when he gets his full +price: a case of this kind happened here yesterday. + +_25th October, 1867._--Authority was found in the Koran for staying +one day more here. This was very trying; but the fact was our guide +from Hara hither had enticed a young slave girl to run away, and he +had given her in charge to one of his countrymen, who turned round and +tried to secure her for himself, and gave information about the other +enticing her away. Nothing can be more tedious than the Arab way of +travelling. + +_26th October, 1867._--We went S.W. for five hours through an +undulating, well-wooded, well-peopled country, and quantities of large +game. Several trees give out when burned very fine scents; others do +it when cut. Euphorbia is abundant. We slept by a torrent which had +been filled with muddy water by late rains. It thunders every +afternoon, and rains somewhere as regularly as it thunders, but these +are but partial rains; they do not cool the earth; nor fill the cracks +made in the dry season. + +_27th October, 1867._--Off early in a fine drizzling rain, which +continued for two hours, and came on to a plain about three miles +broad, full of large game. These plains are swamps at times, and they +are flanked by ridges of denudation some 200 or 300 feet above them, +and covered with trees. + +The ridges are generally hardened sandstone, marked with madrepores, +and masses of brown haematite. It is very hot, and we become very +tired. There is no system in the Arab marches. The first day was five +hours, this 3-1/2 hours; had it been reversed--short marches during +the first days and longer afterwards--the muscles would have become +inured to the exertion. A long line of heights on our south points to +the valley of Nsama. + +_28th October, 1867._--Five hours brought us to the Choma River and +the villages of Chifupa, but, as already mentioned, the chief and +people had fled, and no persuasion could prevail on them to come and +sell us food. We showed a few who ventured to come among us what we +were willing to give for flour, but they said, "Yes, we will call the +women and they will sell." None came. + +Rested all day on the banks of the Choma, which is a muddy stream +coming from the north and going to the south-west to join the Chiséra. +It has worn itself a deep bed in the mud of its banks, and is twenty +yards wide and in some spots waist deep, at other parts it is +unfordable, it contains plenty of fish, and hippopotami and crocodiles +abound. I bought a few ground-nuts at an exorbitant price, the men +evidently not seeing that it would have been better to part with more +at a lower price than run off and leave all to be eaten by the slaves. + +_30th October, 1867._--Two ugly images were found in huts built for +them: they represent in a poor way the people of the country, and are +used in rain-making and curing the sick ceremonies; this is the +nearest approach to idol worship I have seen in the country.[58] + +_31st October, 1867._--We marched over a long line of hills on our +west, and in five and a half hours came to some villages where the +people sold us food willingly, and behaved altogether in a friendly +way. We were met by a herd of buffaloes, but Syde seized my gun from +the boy who carried it, and when the animals came close past me I was +powerless, and not at all pleased with the want of good sense shown by +my usually polite Arab friend. + +_Note_.--The Choma is said by Mohamad bin Saleh to go into Tanganyika +(??). It goes to Kalongosi. + +_1st November, 1867._--We came along between ranges of hills +considerably higher than those we have passed in Itawa or Nsama's +country, and thickly covered with trees, some in full foliage, and +some putting forth fresh red leaves; the hills are about 700 or 800 +feet above the valleys. This is not a district of running rills: we +crossed three sluggish streamlets knee deep. Buffaloes are very +numerous. + +The Ratel covers the buffalo droppings with earth in order to secure +the scavenger beetles which bury themselves therein, thus he prevents +them from rolling a portion away as usual. + +We built our sheds on a hillside. Our course was west and 6-1/4 hours. + +_2nd November, 1867._--Still in the same direction, and in an open +valley remarkable for the numbers of a small euphorbia, which we +smashed at every step. Crossed a small but strong rivulet, the +Lipandé, going south-west to Moero, then, an hour afterwards, crossed +it again, now twenty yards wide and knee deep. After descending from +the tree-covered hill which divides Lipandé from Luao, we crossed the +latter to sleep on its western bank. The hills are granite now, and a +range on our left, from 700 to 1500 feet high, goes on all the way to +Moero. + +These valleys along which we travel are beautiful. Green is the +prevailing colour; but the clumps of trees assume a great variety of +forms, and often remind one of English park scenery. The long line of +slaves and carriers, brought up by their Arab employers, adds life to +the scene, they are in three bodies, and number 450 in all. Each party +has a guide with a flag, and when that is planted all that company +stops till it is lifted, and a drum is beaten, and a kudu's horn +sounded. One party is headed by about a dozen leaders, dressed with +fantastic head-gear of feathers and beads, red cloth on the bodies, +and skins cut into strips and twisted: they take their places in line, +the drum beats, the horn sounds harshly, and all fall in. These sounds +seem to awaken a sort of _esprit de corps_ in those who have once been +slaves. My attendants now jumped up, and would scarcely allow me time +to dress when they heard the-sounds of their childhood, and all day +they were among the foremost. One said to me "that his feet were +rotten with marching," and this though told that they were not called +on to race along like slaves. + +The Africans cannot stand sneers. When any mishap occurs in the march +(as when a branch tilts a load off a man's shoulder) all who see it +set up a yell of derision; if anything is accidentally spilled, or if +one is tired and sits down, the same yell greets him, and all are +excited thereby to exert themselves. They hasten on with their loads, +and hurry with the sheds they build, the masters only bringing up the +rear, and helping anyone who may be sick. The distances travelled were +quite as much as the masters or we could bear. Had frequent halts been +made--as, for instance, a half or a quarter of an hour at the end of +every hour or two--but little distress would have been felt; but five +hours at a stretch is more than men can bear in a hot climate. The +female slaves held on bravely; nearly all carried loads on their +heads, the head, or lady of the party, who is also the wife of the +Arab, was the only exception. She had a fine white shawl, with +ornaments of gold and silver on her head. These ladies had a jaunty +walk, and never gave in on the longest march; many pounds' weight of +fine copper leglets above the ankles seemed only to help the sway of +their walk: as soon as they arrive at the sleeping-place they begin to +cook, and in this art they show a good deal of expertness, making +savoury dishes for their masters out of wild fruits and other not very +likely materials. + +_3rd November, 1867._--The ranges of hills retire as we advance; the +soil is very rich. At two villages the people did not want us, so we +went on and encamped near a third, Kabwakwa, where a son of Mohamad +bin Saleh, with a number of Wanyamwesi, lives. The chief of this part +is Muabo, but we did not see him: the people brought plenty of food +for us to buy. The youth's father is at Casembe's. The country-people +were very much given to falsehood--every place inquired for was +near--ivory abundant--provisions of all sorts cheap and plenty. Our +headmen trusted to these statements of this young man rather, and he +led them to desist going further. Rua country was a month distant, he +said, and but little ivory there. It is but three days off. (We saw it +after three days.) "No ivory at Casembe's or here in Buiré, or +Kabuiré." He was right as to Casembe. Letters, however, came from +Hamees, with news of a depressing nature. Chitimba is dead, and so is +Mambwé. Chitimba's people are fighting for the chieftainship: great +hunger prevails there now, the Arabs having bought up all the food. +Moriri, a chief dispossessed of his country by Nsama, wished Hamees to +restore his possessions, but Hamees said that he had made peace, and +would not interfere. + +This unfavourable news from a part where the chief results of their +trading were deposited, made Syde and Tipo Tipo decide to remain in +Buiré only ten or twenty days, send out people to buy what ivory they +could find, and then, retire. + +As Syde and Tipo Tipo were sending men to Casembe for ivory, I +resolved to go thither first, instead of shaping my course for Ujiji. + +Very many cases of goitre in men and women here: I see no reason for +it. This is only 3350 feet above the sea. + +_7th November, 1867._--Start for Moero, convoyed by all the Arabs for +some distance: they have been extremely kind. We draw near to the +mountain-range on our left, called Kakoma, and sleep at one of +Kaputa's villages, our course now being nearly south. + +_8th November, 1867._--Villages are very thickly studded over the +valley formed by Kakoma range, and another at a greater distance on +our right; 100 or 200 yards is a common distance between these +villages, which, like those in Londa, or Lunda, are all shaded with +trees of a species of _Ficus indica_. One belongs to Puta, and this +Puta, the paramount chief, sent to say that if we slept there, and +gave him a cloth, he would send men to conduct us next day, and ferry +us across: I was willing to remain, but his people would not lend a +hut, so we came on to the Lake, and no ferry. Probably he thought that +we were going across the Lualaba into Rua. + +Lake Moero seems of goodly size, and is flanked by ranges of mountains +on the east and west. Its banks are of coarse sand, and slope +gradually down to the water: outside these banks stands a thick belt +of tropical vegetation, in which fishermen build their huts. The +country called Rua lies on the west, and is seen as a lofty range of +dark mountains: another range of less height, but more broken, stands +along the eastern shore, and in it lies the path to Casembe. We slept +in a fisherman's hut on the north shore. They brought a large fish, +called "mondé," for sale; it has a slimy skin, and no scales, a large +head, with tentaculae like the Siluridie, and large eyes: the great +gums in its mouth have a brush-like surface, like a whale's in +miniature: it is said to eat small fish. A bony spine rises on its +back (I suppose for defence), which is 2-1/2 inches long, and as thick +as a quill. They are very retentive of life. + +The northern shore has a fine sweep like an unbent bow, and round the +western end flows the water that makes the river Lualaba, which, +before it enters Moero, is the Luapula, and that again (if the most +intelligent reports speak true) is the Chambezé before it enters Lake +Bemba, or Bangweolo. + +We came along the north shore till we reached the eastern flanking +range, then ascended and turned south, the people very suspicious, +shutting their gates as we drew near. We were alone, and only nine +persons in all, but they must have had reason for fear. One headman +refused us admission, then sent after us, saying that the man who had +refused admission was not the chief: he had come from a distance, and +had just arrived. It being better to appear friendly than otherwise, +we went back, and were well entertained. Provisions were given when we +went away. Flies abound, and are very troublesome; they seem to be +attracted by the great numbers of fish caught. The people here are +Babemba, but beyond the river Kalongosi they are all Balunda. + +A trade in salt is carried on from different salt springs and salt mud +to Lunda and elsewhere. We meet parties of salt-traders daily, and +they return our salutations very cordially, rubbing earth on the arms. +We find our path lies between two ranges of mountains, one flanking +the eastern shore, the other about three miles more inland, and +parallel to it: these are covered thickly with trees, and are of +loosely-coherent granite: many villages are in the space enclosed by +these ranges, but all insecure. + +_12th November, 1867._.--We came to the Kalongosi, or, as the Arabs +and Portuguese pronounce it, Karungwesi, about 60 yards wide, and +flowing fast over stones. It is deep enough, even now when the rainy +season is not commenced, to requite canoes. It is said to rise in +Kumbi, or Afar, a country to the south-east of our ford. Fish in great +numbers are caught when ascending to spawn: they are secured by weirs, +nets, hooks. Large strong baskets are placed in the rapids, and filled +with stones, when the water rises these baskets are standing-places +for the fishermen to angle or throw their nets. Having crossed the +Kalongosi we were now in Lunda, or Londa. + +_13th November, 1867._--We saw that the Kalongosi went north till it +met a large meadow on the shores of Moero, and, turning westwards, it +entered there. The fishermen gave us the names of 39 species of fish +in the Lake; they said that they never cease ascending the Kalongosi, +though at times they are more abundant than at others: they are as +follows. + + Mondé; Mota; Lasa; Kasibé; Molobé; Lopembé; Motoya; Chipansa; + Mpifu; Manda; Mpala; Moombo; Mfeu; Mendé; Seusé; Kadia nkololo; + Etiaka; Nkomo; Lifisha; Sambamkaka; Ntondo; Sampa; Bongwé; + Mabanga; Kisé; Kuanya; Nkosu; Palé; Mosungu; Litembwa; + Mecheberé; Koninchia; Sipa; Lomembé; Molenga; Mirongé; Nfindo; + Pende. + +_14th November, 1867._--Being doubtful as to whether we were in the +right path, I sent to a village to inquire. The headman, evidently +one of a former Casembe school, came to us full of wrath. "What right +had we to come that way, seeing the usual path was to our left?" He +mouthed some sentences in the pompous Lunda style, but would not show +us the path; so we left him, and after going through a forest of large +trees, 4-1/2 hours south, took advantage of some huts on the Kifurwa +River, built by bark-cloth cutters. + +_15th November, 1867._--Heavy rains, but we went on, and found a +village, Kifurwa, surrounded by cassava fields, and next day crossed +the Muatozé, 25 yards wide, and running strongly towards Moero, knee +deep. The River Kabukwa, seven yards wide, and also knee deep, going +to swell the Muatozé. + +We now crossed a brook, Chirongo, one yard wide and one deep; but our +march was all through well-grown forest, chiefly gum-copal trees and +bark-cloth trees. The gum-copal oozes out in abundance after or during +the rains, from holes a quarter of an inch in diameter, made by an +insect: it falls, and in time sinks into the soil, a supply for future +generations. The small well-rounded features of the people of Nsama's +country are common here, as we observe in the salt-traders and +villages; indeed, this is the home of the Negro, and the features such +as we see in pictures of ancient Egyptians, as first pointed out by +Mr. Winwood Reade. We sleep by the river Mandapala, 12 yards wide, and +knee deep. + +_18th November, 1867._--We rest by the Kabusi, a sluggish narrow +rivulet. It runs into the Chungu, a quarter of a mile off. The Chungu +is broad, but choked with trees and aquatic plants: Sapotas, +Eschinomenas, Papyrus, &c. The free stream is 18 yards wide, and waist +deep. We had to wade about 100 yards, thigh and waist deep, to get to +the free stream. + +On this, the Chungu, Dr. Lacerda died; it is joined by the Mandapala, +and flows a united stream into Moero. The statements of the people are +confused, but the following is what I have gleaned from many. There +were some Ujiji people with the Casembe of the time. The Portuguese +and Ujijians began to fight, but Casembe said to them and the +Portuguese, "You are all my guests, why should you fight and kill each +other?" He then gave Lacerda ten slaves, and men to live with him and +work at building huts, bringing firewood, water, &c. He made similar +presents to the Ujijians, which quieted them. Lacerda was but ten days +at Chungu when he died. The place of his death was about 9° 32', and +not 8° 43' as in Mr. Arrowsmith's map. The feud arose from one of +Lacerda's people killing an Ujijian at the water: this would certainly +be a barrier to their movements. + +Palm-oil trees are common west of the Chungu, but none appeared east +of it. The oil is eaten by the people, and is very nice and sweet. +This is remarkable, as the altitude above the sea is 3350 feet. + +Allah is a very common exclamation among all the people west of Nsama. +By advice of a guide whom we picked up at Kifurwa, we sent four +fathoms of calico to apprise Casembe of our coming: the Arabs usually +send ten fathoms; in our case it was a very superfluous notice, for +Casembe is said to have been telegraphed to by runners at every stage +of our progress after crossing the Kalongosi. + +We remain by the Chungu till Casembe sends one of his counsellors to +guide us to his town. It has been so perpetually clouded over that we +have been unable to make out our progress, and the dense forest +prevented us seeing Moero as we wished: rain and thunder perpetually, +though the rain seldom fell where we were. + +I saw pure white-headed swallows _(Psalidoprocne albiceps)_ skimming +the surface of the Chungu as we crossed it. The soil is very rich. +Casembe's ground-nuts are the largest I have seen, and so is the +cassava. I got over a pint of palm oil for a cubit of calico. + +A fine young man, whose father had been the Casembe before this one, +came to see us; he is in the background now, otherwise he would have +conducted us to the village: a son or heir does not succeed to the +chieftainship here. + +_21st November, 1867._--The River Lundé was five miles from Chungu. It +is six yards wide where we crossed it, but larger further down; +springs were oozing out of its bed: we then entered on a broad plain, +covered with bush, the trees being all cleared off in building a +village. When one Casembe dies, the man who succeeds him invariably +removes and builds his pembwé, or court, at another place: when Dr. +Lacerda died, the Casembe moved to near the north end of the Mofwé. +There have been seven Casembes in all. The word means a _general_. + +The plain extending from the Lundé to the town of Casembe is level, +and studded pretty thickly with red anthills, from 15 to 20 feet high. +Casembe has made a broad path from his town to the Lundé, about a +mile-and-a-half long, and as broad as a carriage-path. The chief's +residence is enclosed in a wall of reeds, 8 or 9 feet high, and 300 +yards square, the gateway is ornamented with about sixty human skulls; +a shed stands in the middle of the road before we come to the gate, +with a cannon dressed in gaudy cloths. A number of noisy fellows +stopped our party, and demanded tribute for the cannon; I burst +through them, and the rest followed without giving anything: they were +afraid of the English. The town is on the east bank of the Lakelet +Mofwé, and one mile from its northern end. Mohamad bin Saleh now met +us, his men firing guns of welcome; he conducted us to his shed of +reception, and then gave us a hut till we could build one of our own. +Mohamad is a fine portly black Arab, with a pleasant smile, and pure +white beard, and has been more than ten years in these parts, and +lived with four Casembes: he has considerable influence here, and also +on Tanganyika. + +An Arab trader, Mohamad Bogharib, who arrived seven days before us +with an immense number of slaves, presented a meal of vermicelli, oil, +and honey, also cassava meal cooked, so as to resemble a sweet meat (I +had not tasted honey or sugar since we left Lake Nyassa, in September +1866): they had coffee too. + +Neither goats, sheep, nor cattle thrive here, so the people are +confined to fowls and fish. Cassava is very extensively cultivated, +indeed, so generally is this plant grown, that it is impossible to +know which is town and which is country: every hut has a plantation +around it, in which is grown cassava, Holcus sorghum, maize, beans, +nuts. + +Mohamad gives the same account of the River Luapula and Lake Bemba +that Jumbé did, but he adds, that the Chambezé, where we crossed it, +_is_ the Luapula before it enters Bemba or Bangweolo: on coming out of +that Lake it turns round and comes away to the north, as Luapula, and, +without touching the Mofwé, goes into Moero; then, emerging thence at +the north-west end it becomes Lualaba, goes into Rua, forms a lake +there, and afterwards goes into another lake beyond Tanganyika. + +The Lakelet Mofwé fills during the rains and spreads westward, much +beyond its banks. Elephants wandering in its mud flats when covered +are annually killed in numbers: if it were connected with the Lake +Moero the flood would run off. + +Many of Casembe's people appear with the ears cropped and hands lopped +off: the present chief has been often guilty of this barbarity. One +man has just come to us without ears or hands: he tries to excite our +pity making a chirruping noise, by striking his cheeks with the +stumps of his hands. + +A dwarf also, one Zofu, with backbone broken, comes about us: he talks +with an air of authority, and is present at all public occurrences: +the people seem to bear with him. He is a stranger from a tribe in the +north, and works in his garden very briskly: his height is 3 feet 9 +inches. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[56] Chéfu amongst the Manganja. Any animal possessing strength, has +the terminal "fu" or "vu;" thus Njobvu, an elephant; M'vu, the +hippopotamus.--ED. + +[57] The natives are quick to detect a peculiarity in a man, and give +him a name accordingly: the conquerors of a country try to forestall +them by selecting one for themselves. Susi states that when Tipo Tipo +stood over the spoil taken from Nsama, he gathered it closer together +and said, "Now I am Tipo Tipo," that is, "the gatherer together of +wealth." Kumba Kumba, of whom we shall hear much, took his name from +the number of captives he gathered in his train under similar +circumstances; it might be translated, "the collector of people."--ED. + +[58] It is on the West Coast alone that idols are really worshipped in +Africa.--ED. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + Grand reception of the traveller. Casenibe and his wife. Long + stay in the town. Goes to explore Moero. Despatch to Lord + Clarendon, with notes on recent travels. Illness at the end of + 1867. Further exploration of Lake Moero. Flooded plains. The + River Luao. Visits Kabwawata. Joy of Arabs at Mohamad bin + Saleh's freedom. Again ill with fever. Stories of underground + dwellings. + + +_24th November, 1867._--We were called to be presented to Casembe in a +grand reception. + +The present Casembe has a heavy uninteresting countenance, without +beard or whiskers, and somewhat of the Chinese type, and his eyes have +an outward squint. He smiled but once during the day, and that was +pleasant enough, though the cropped ears and lopped hands, with human +skulls at the gate, made me indisposed to look on anything with +favour. His principal wife came with her attendants, after he had +departed, to look at the Englishman (Moenge-résé). She was a fine, +tall, good-featured lady, with two spears in her hand; the principal +men who had come around made way for her, and called on me to salute: +I did so; but she, being forty yards off, I involuntarily beckoned her +to come nearer: this upset the gravity of all her attendants; all +burst into a laugh, and ran off. + +Casembe's smile was elicited by the dwarf making some uncouth antics +before him. His executioner also came forward to look: he had a broad +Lunda sword on his arm, and a curious scizzor-like instrument at his +neck for cropping ears. On saying to him that his was nasty work, he +smiled, and so did many who were not sure of their ears a moment: many +men of respectability show that at some former time they have been +thus punished. Casembe sent us another large basket of fire-dried fish +in addition to that sent us at Chungu, two baskets of flour, one of +dried cassava, and a pot of pombe or beer. Mohamad, who was accustomed +to much more liberal Casembes, thinks this one very stingy, having +neither generosity nor good sense; but as we cannot consume all he +gives, we do not complain. + +_27th November, 1867._--Casembe's chief wife passes frequently to her +plantation, carried by six, or more commonly by twelve men in a sort +of palanquin: she has European features, but light-brown complexion. A +number of men run before her, brandishing swords and battle-axes, and +one beats a hollow instrument, giving warning to passengers to clear +the way: she has two enormous pipes ready filled for smoking. She is +very attentive to her agriculture; cassava is the chief product; sweet +potatoes, maize, sorghum, pennisetum, millet, ground-nuts, cotton. The +people seem more savage than any I have yet seen: they strike each +other barbarously from mere wantonness, but they are civil enough to +me. + +Mohamad bin Saleh proposes to go to Ujiji next month. He waited when +he heard of our coming, in order that we might go together: he has a +very low opinion of the present chief. The area which has served for +building the chief town at different times is about ten miles in +diameter. + +Mofwé is a shallow piece of water about two miles broad, four or less +long, full of sedgy islands, the abodes of waterfowl, but some are +solid enough to be cultivated. The bottom is mud, though sandy at the +east shore: it has no communication with the Luapula. _(28th +November, 1867._) The Lundé, Chungu, and Mandapala are said to join +and flow into Moero. Fish are in great abundance (perch). On the west +side there is a grove of palm-oil palms, and beyond west rises a long +range of mountains of the Rua country 15 or 20 miles off. + +_1st December, 1867._--An old man named Pérémbé is the owner of the +land on which Casembe has built. They always keep up the traditional +ownership. Munongo is a brother of Pérémbé, and he owns the country +east of the Kalongosi: if any one wished to cultivate land he would +apply to these aboriginal chiefs for it. + +I asked a man from Casembe to guide me to south end of Moero, but he +advised me not to go as it was so marshy. The Lundé forms a marsh on +one side, and the Luapula lets water percolate through sand and mud, +and so does the Robukwé, which makes the path often knee deep. He said +he would send men to conduct me to Moero, a little further down, and +added that we had got very little to eat from him, and he wanted to +give more. Moero's south end is about 9° 30' S. + +Old Pérémbé is a sensible man: Mohamad thinks him 150 years old. He is +always on the side of liberality and fairness; he says that the first +Casembe was attracted to Mofwé by the abundance of fish in it. He has +the idea of all men being derived from a single pair. + +_7th December, 1867._--It is very cloudy here; no observations can be +made, as it clouds over every afternoon and night. _(8th and 11th +December, 1867._) Cleared off last night, but intermittent fever +prevented my going out. + +_13th December, 1867._--Set-in rains. A number of fine young girls who +live in Casembe's compound came and shook hands in their way, which is +to cross the right over to your left, and clasp them; then give a few +claps with both hands, and repeat the crossed clasp: they want to +tell their children that they have seen me. + +_15th December, 1867._--To-day I announced to Casembe our intention of +going away. Two traders got the same return present from him that I +did, namely, one goat and some fish, meal and cassava. I am always ill +when not working; I spend my time writing letters, to be ready when we +come to Ujiji. _(18th December, 1867._) We have been here a month, and +I cannot get more than two lunars: I got altitudes of the meridian of +stars north and south soon after we came, but not lunars. Casembe sent +a big basket of fire-dried fish, two pots of beer, and a basket of +cassava, and says we may go when we choose. + +_19th December, 1867._--On going to say good-bye to Casembe, he tried +to be gracious, said that we had eaten but little of his food; yet he +allowed us to go. He sent for a man to escort us; and on the _22nd +December, 1867._ we went to Lundé River, crossed it, and went on to +sleep at the Chungu, close by the place where Casembe's court stood +when Dr. Lacerda came, for the town was moved further west as soon as +the Doctor died. There are many palm-oil palms about, but no tradition +exists of their introduction. + +_23rd December, 1867._--We crossed the Chungu. Rain from above, and +cold and wet to the waist below, as I do not lift my shirt, because +the white skin makes all stare. I saw black monkeys at this spot. The +Chungu is joined by the Kaleusi and the Mandapala before it enters +Moero. Casembe said that the Lundé ran into Mofwé; others denied this, +and said that it formed a marsh with numbers of pools in long grass; +but it may ooze into Mofwé thus. Casembe sent three men to guide me to +Moero. + +_24th December, 1867._--Drizzly rain, and we are in a miserable spot +by the Kabusi, in a bed of brakens four feet high. The guides won't +stir in this weather. I gave beads to buy what could be got for +Christmas. + +_25th December, 1867._--Drizzly showers every now and then; soil, +black mud. + +About ten men came as guides and as a convoy of honour to Mohamad. + +_27th December, 1867._--In two hours we crossed Mandapala, now waist +deep. This part was well stocked with people five years ago, but +Casembe's severity in cropping ears and other mutilations, selling the +children for slight offences, &c., made them all flee to neighbouring +tribes; and now, if he sent all over the country, he could not collect +a thousand men. + +[Livingstone refers (on the 15th Dec.) to some writings he was engaged +upon, and we find one of them here in his journal which takes the form +of a despatch to Lord Clarendon, with a note attached to the effect +that it was not copied or sent, as he had no paper for the purpose. It +affords an epitomised description of his late travels, and the stay at +Casembe, and is inserted here in the place of many notes written +daily, but which only repeat the same events and observations in a +less readable form. It is especially valuable at this stage of his +journal, because it treats on the whole geography of the district +between Lakes Nyassa and Moero, with a broad handling which is +impossible in the mere jottings of a diary.] + + Town Of Casembe, _10th December, 1867._. + + Lat. 9° 37' 13" South; long. 28° East. + + The Right Honourable the Earl of Clarendon. + + My Lord,--The first opportunity I had of sending a letter to the + coast occurred in February last, when I was at a village called + Molemba (lat. 10° 14' S.; long. 31° 46' E.), in the country + named Lobemba. Lobisa, Lobemba, Ulungu and Itawa-Lunda are the + names by which the districts of an elevated region between the + parallels 11° and 8° south, and meridians 28°-33° long. east, + are known. The altitude of this upland is from 4000 to 6000 feet + above the level of the sea. It is generally covered with forest, + well watered by numerous rivulets, and comparatively cold. The + soil is very rich, and yields abundantly wherever cultivated. + This is the watershed between the Loangwa, a tributary of the + Zambesi, and several rivers which flow towards the north. Of the + latter, the most remarkable is the Chambezé, for it assists in + the formation of three lakes, and changes its name three times + in the five or six hundred miles of its course. + + On leaving Lobemba we entered Ulungu, and, as we proceeded + northwards, perceived by the barometers and the courses of + numerous rivulets, that a decided slope lay in that direction. A + friendly old Ulungu chief, named Kasonso, on hearing that I + wished to visit Lake Liemba, which lies in his country, gave his + son with a large escort to guide me thither; and on the 2nd + April last we reached the brim of the deep cup-like cavity in + which the Lake reposes. The descent is 2000 feet, and still the + surface of the water is upwards of 2500 feet above the level of + the sea. The sides of the hollow are very steep, and sometimes + the rocks run the whole 2000 feet sheer down to the water. + Nowhere is there three miles of level land from the foot of the + cliffs to the shore, but top, sides, and bottom are covered with + well-grown wood and grass, except where the bare rocks protrude. + The scenery is extremely beautiful. The "Aeasy," a stream of 15 + yards broad and thigh deep, came down alongside our precipitous + path, and formed cascades by leaping 300 feet at a time. These, + with the bright red of the clay schists among the + greenwood-trees, made the dullest of my attendants pause and + remark with wonder. Antelopes, buffaloes, and elephants abound + on the steep slopes; and hippopotami, crocodiles, and fish + swarm in the water. Gnus are here unknown, and these animals may + live to old age if not beguiled into pitfalls. The elephants + sometimes eat the crops of the natives, and flap their big ears + just outside the village stockades. One got out of our way on to + a comparatively level spot, and then stood and roared at us. + Elsewhere they make clear off at sight of man. + + The first village we came to on the banks of the Lake had a + grove of palm-oil and other trees around it. This palm tree was + not the dwarf species seen on Lake Nyassa. A cluster of the + fruit passed the door of my hut which required two men to carry + it. The fruit seemed quite as large as those on the West Coast. + Most of the natives live on two islands, where they cultivate + the soil, rear goats, and catch fish. The Lake is not large, + from 15 to 20 miles broad, and from 30 to 40 long. It is the + receptacle of four considerable streams, and sends out an arm + two miles broad to the N.N.W., it is said to Tanganyika, and it + may be a branch of that Lake. One of the streams, the Lonzua, + drives a smooth body of water into the Lake fifty yards broad + and ten fathoms deep, bearing on its surface duckweed and grassy + islands. I could see the mouths of other streams, but got near + enough to measure the Lofu only; and at a ford fifty miles from + the confluence it was 100 yards wide and waist deep in the dry + season. + + We remained six weeks on the shores of the Lake, trying to pick + up some flesh and strength. A party of Arabs came into Ulungu + after us in search of ivory, and hearing that an Englishman had + preceded them, naturally inquired where I was. But our friends, + the Bäulungu, suspecting that mischief was meant, stoutly denied + that they had ever seen anything of the sort; and then became + very urgent that I should go on to one of the inhabited islands + for safety. I regret that I suspected them of intending to make + me a prisoner there, which they could easily have done by + removing the canoes; but when the villagers who deceived the + Arabs told me afterwards with an air of triumph how nicely they + had managed, I saw that they had only been anxious for my + safety. On three occasions the same friendly disposition was + shown; and when we went round the west side of the Lake in order + to examine the arm or branch above referred to, the headman at + the confluence of the Lofu protested so strongly against my + going--the Arabs had been fighting, and I might be mistaken for + an Arab, and killed--that I felt half-inclined to believe him. + Two Arab slaves entered the village the same afternoon in search + of ivory, and confirmed all he had said. We now altered our + course, intending to go south about the district disturbed by + the Arabs. When we had gone 60 miles we heard that the + head-quarters of the Arabs were 22 miles further. They had found + ivory very cheap, and pushed on to the west, till attacked by a + chief named, Nsama, whom they beat in his own stockade. They + were now at a loss which way to turn. On reaching Chitimba's + village (lat. 8° 57' 55" S.; long. 30° 20' E.), I found them + about 600 in all; and, on presenting a letter I had from the + Sultan of Zanzibar, was immediately supplied with provisions, + beads, and cloth. They approved of my plan of passing to the + south of Nsama's country, but advised waiting till the effects + of punishment, which the Bäulungu had resolved to inflict on + Nsama for breach of public law, were known. It had always been + understood that whoever brought goods into the country was to be + protected; and two hours after my arrival at Chitimba's, the son + of Kasonso, our guide, marched in with his contingent. It was + anticipated that Nsama might flee; if to the north, he would + leave me a free passage through his country; if to the south, I + might be saved from walking into his hands. But it turned out + that Nsama was anxious for peace. He had sent two men with + elephants' tusks to begin a negotiation; but treachery was + suspected, and they were shot down. Another effort was made with + ten goats, and repulsed. This was much to the regret of the head + Arabs. It was fortunate for me that the Arab goods were not all + sold, for Lake Moero lay in Nsama's country, and without peace + no ivory could be bought, nor could I reach the Lake. The + peace-making between the people and Arabs was, however, a + tedious process, occupying three and a half months--drinking + each other's blood. This, as I saw it west of this in 1854, is + not more horrible than the thirtieth dilution of deadly + night-shade or strychnine is in homoeopathy. I thought that had + I been an Arab I could easily swallow that, but not the next + means of cementing the peace--marrying a black wife. Nsama's + daughter was the bride, and she turned out very pretty. She came + riding pickaback on a man's shoulders: this is the most + dignified conveyance that chiefs and their families can command. + She had ten maids with her, each carrying a basket of + provisions, and all having the same beautiful features as + herself. She was taken by the principal Arab, but soon showed + that she preferred her father to her husband, for seeing + preparations made to send off to purchase ivory, she suspected + that her father was to be attacked, and made her escape. I then, + visited Nsama, and, as he objected to many people coming near + him, took only three of my eight attendants. His people were + very much afraid of fire-arms, and felt all my clothing to see + if I had any concealed on my person. Nsama is an old man, with + head and face like those sculptured on the Assyrian monuments. + He has been a great conqueror in his time, and with bows and + arrows was invincible. He is said to have destroyed many native + traders from Tanganyika, but twenty Arab guns made him flee from + his own stockade, and caused a great sensation in the country. + He was much taken with my hair and woollen clothing; but his + people, heedless of his scolding, so pressed upon us that we + could not converse, and, after promising to send for me to talk + during the night, our interview ended. He promised guides to + Moero, and sent us more provisions than we could carry; but + showed so much distrust, that after all we went without his + assistance. + + Nsama's people are particularly handsome. Many of the men have + as beautiful heads as one could find in an assembly of + Europeans. All have very fine forms, with small hands and feet. + None of the West-coast ugliness, from which most of our ideas of + the Negroes are derived, is here to be seen. No prognathous jaws + nor lark-heels offended the sight. My observations deepened the + impression first obtained from the remarks of Winwood Reade, + that the typical Negro is seen in the ancient Egyptian, and not + in the ungainly forms; which grow up in the unhealthy swamps of + the West Coast. Indeed it is probable that this upland forest + region is the true home of the Negro. The women excited the + admiration of the Arabs. They have fine, small, well-formed + features: their great defect is one of fashion, which does not + extend to the next tribe; they file their teeth to points, the + hussies, and that makes their smile like that of the crocodile. + + Nsama's country is called Itawa, and his principal town is in + lat. 8° 55' S., and long. 29° 21' E. From the large population + he had under him, Itawa is in many parts well cleared of trees + for cultivation, and it is lower than Ulungu, being generally + about 3000 feet above the sea. Long lines of tree-covered hills + raised some 600 or 700 feet above these valleys of denudation, + prevent the scenery from being monotonous. Large game is + abundant. Elephants, buffaloes, and zebras grazed in large + numbers on the long sloping, banks of a river called Chiséra, a + mile and a half broad. In going north we crossed this river, or + rather marsh, which is full of papyrus plants and reeds. Our + ford was an elephant's path; and the roots of the papyrus, + though a carpet to these animals, were sharp and sore to feet + usually protected by shoes, and often made us shrink and + flounder into holes chest deep. The Chiséra forms a larger marsh + west of this, and it gives off its water to the Kalongosi, a + feeder of Lake Moero. + + The Arabs sent out men in all directions to purchase ivory; but + their victory over Nsama had created a panic among the tribes + which no verbal assurances could allay. If Nsama had been routed + by twenty Arab guns no one could stand before them but Casembe; + and Casembe had issued strict orders to his people not to allow + the Arabs who fought Nsama to enter his country. They did not + attempt to force their way, but after sending friendly messages + and presents to different chiefs, when these were not cordially + received, turned off in some other direction, and at last, + despairing of more ivory, turned homewards. From first to last + they were extremely kind to me, and showed all due respect to + the Sultan's letter. I am glad that I was witness to their mode + of trading in ivory and slaves. It formed a complete contrast to + the atrocious dealings of the Kilwa traders, who are supposed to + be, but are not, the subjects of the same Sultan. If one wished + to depict the slave-trade in its most attractive, or rather + least objectionable, form, he would accompany these gentlemen + subjects of the Sultan of Zanzibar. If he would describe the + land traffic in its most disgusting phases he would follow the + Kilwa traders along the road to Nyassa, or the Portuguese + half-castes from Tette to the River Shiré. + + Keeping to the north of Nsama altogether, and moving westwards, + our small party reached the north end of Moero on the 8th + November last. There the Lake is a goodly piece of water twelve + or more miles broad, and flanked on the east and west by ranges + of lofty tree-covered mountains. The range on the west is the + highest, and is part of the country called Rua-Moero; it gives + off a river at its north-west end called Lualaba, and receives + the River Kalongosi (pronounced by the Arabs Karungwesi) on the + east near its middle, and the rivers Luapula and Rovukwé at its + southern extremity. The point of most interest in Lake Moero is + that it forms one of a chain of lakes, connected by a river some + 500 miles in length. First of all the Chambezé rises in the + country of Mambwé, N.E. of Molemba. It then flows south-west and + west till it reaches lat. 11° S., and long. 29° E., where it + forms Lake Bemba or Bangweolo, emerging thence it assumes the + new name Luapula, and comes down here to fall into Moero. On + going out of this Lake it is known by the name Lualaba, as it + flows N.W. in Rua to form another Lake with many islands called + Urengé or Ulengé. Beyond this, information is not positive as to + whether it enters Tanganyika or another Lake beyond that. When I + crossed the Chambezé, the similarity of names led me to imagine + that this was a branch of the Zambesi. The natives said, "No. + This goes south-west, and forms a very large water there." But I + had become prepossessed with the idea that Lake Liemba was that + Bemba of which I had heard in 1863, and we had been so starved + in the south that I gladly set my face north. The river-like + prolongation of Liemba might go to Moero, and where I could not + follow the arm of Liemba. Then I worked my way to this Lake. + Since coming to Casembe's the testimony of natives and Arabs has + been so united and consistent, that I am but ten days from Lake + Bemba, or Bangweolo, that I cannot doubt its accuracy. I am so + tired of exploration without a word from home or anywhere else + for two years, that I must go to Ujiji on Tanganyika for letters + before doing anything else. The banks and country adjacent to + Lake Bangweolo are reported to be now very muddy and very + unhealthy. I have no medicine. The inhabitants suffer greatly + from swelled thyroid gland or Derbyshire neck and + elephantiasis, and this is the rainy season and very unsafe for + me. + + When at the lower end of Moero we were so near Casembe that it + was thought well to ascertain the length of the Lake, and see + Casembe too. We came up between the double range that flanks the + east of the Lake; but mountains and plains are so covered with + well-grown forest that we could seldom see it. We reached + Casembe's town on the 28th November. It stands near the north + end of the Lakelet Mofwé; this is from one to three miles broad, + and some six or seven long: it is full of sedgy islands, and + abounds in fish. The country is quite level, but fifteen or + twenty miles west of Mofwé we see a long range of the mountains + of Rua. Between this range and Mofwé the Luapula flows past into + Moero, the Lake called Moero okata = the great Moero, being + about fifty miles long. The town of Casembe covers a mile square + of cassava plantations, the huts being dotted over that space. + Some have square enclosures of reeds, but no attempt has been + made at arrangement: it might be called a rural village rather + than a town. No estimate could be formed by counting the huts, + they were so irregularly planted, and hidden by cassava; but my + impression from other collections of huts was that the + population was under a thousand souls. The court or compound of + Casembe--some would call it a palace--is a square enclosure of + 300 yards by 200 yards. It is surrounded by a hedge of high + reeds. Inside, where Casembe honoured me with a grand reception, + stands a gigantic hut for Casembe, and a score of small huts for + domestics. The Queen's hut stands behind that of the chief, with + a number of small huts also. Most of the enclosed space is + covered with a plantation of cassava, _Curcus purgaris_, and + cotton. Casembe sat before his hut on a equate seat placed on + lion and leopard skins. He was clothed in a coarse blue and + white Manchester print edged with red baize, and arranged in + large folds so as to look like a crinoline put on wrong side + foremost. His arms, legs and head were covered with sleeves, + leggings and cap made of various coloured beads in neat + patterns: a crown of yellow feathers surmounted his cap. Each of + his headmen came forward, shaded by a huge, ill-made umbrella, + and followed by his dependants, made obeisance to Casembe, and + sat down on his right and left: various bands of musicians did + the same. When called upon I rose and bowed, and an old + counsellor, with his ears cropped, gave the chief as full an + account as he had been able to gather during our stay of the + English in general, and my antecedents in particular. My having + passed through Lunda to the west of Casembe, and visited chiefs + of whom he scarcely knew anything, excited most attention. He + then assured me that I was welcome to his country, to go where I + liked, and do what I chose. We then went (two boys carrying his + train behind him) to an inner apartment, where the articles of + my present were exhibited in detail. He had examined them + privately before, and we knew that he was satisfied. They + consisted of eight yards of orange-coloured serge, a large + striped tablecloth; another large cloth made at Manchester in + imitation of West Coast native manufacture, which never fails to + excite the admiration of Arabs and natives, and a large richly + gilded comb for the back hair, such as ladies wore fifty years + ago: this was given to me by a friend at Liverpool, and as + Casembe and Nsama's people cultivate the hair into large knobs + behind, I was sure that this article would tickle the fancy. + Casembe expressed himself pleased, and again bade me welcome. + + I had another interview, and tried to dissuade him from selling + his people as slaves. He listened awhile, then broke off into a + tirade on the greatness of his country, his power and dominion, + which Mohamad bin Saleh, who has been here for ten years, + turned into ridicule, and made the audience laugh by telling how + other Lunda chiefs had given me oxen and sheep, while Casembe + had only a poor little goat and some fish to bestow. He insisted + also that there were but two sovereigns in the world, the Sultan + of Zanzibar and Victoria. When we went on a third occasion to + bid Casembe farewell, he was much less distant, and gave me the + impression that I could soon become friends with him; but he has + an ungainly look, and an outward squint in each eye. A number of + human skulls adorned the entrance to his courtyard; and great + numbers of his principal men having their ears cropped, and some + with their hands lopped off, showed his barbarous way of making + his ministers attentive and honest. I could not avoid indulging + a prejudice against him. + + The Portuguese visited Casembe long ago; but as each new Casembe + builds a new town, it is not easy to fix on the exact spot to + which strangers came. The last seven Casembes have had their + towns within seven miles of the present one. Dr. Lacerda, + Governor of Tette, on the Zambesi, was the only visitor of + scientific attainments, and he died at the rivulet called + Chungu, three or four miles from this. The spot is called + Nshinda, or Inchinda, which the Portuguese wrote Lucenda or + Ucenda. The latitude given is nearly fifty miles wrong, but the + natives say that he lived only ten days after his arrival, and + if, as is probable, his mind was clouded with fever when he last + observed, those who have experienced what that is will readily + excuse any mistake he may have made. His object was to + accomplish a much-desired project of the Portuguese to have an + overland communication between their eastern and western + possessions. This was never made by any of the Portuguese + nation; but two black traders succeeded partially with a part of + the distance, crossing once from Cassangé, in Angola, to Tette + on the Zambesi, and returning with a letter from the Governor + of Mosambique. It is remarkable that this journey, which was + less by a thousand miles than from sea to sea and back again, + should have for ever quenched all white Portuguese aspirations + for an overland route. + + The different Casembes visited by the Portuguese seem to have + varied much in character and otherwise. Pereira, the first + visitor, said (I quote from memory) that Casembe had 20,000 + trained soldiers, watered his streets daily, and sacrificed + twenty human victims every day. I could hear nothing of human + sacrifices now, and it is questionable if the present Casembe + could bring a thousand stragglers into the field. When he + usurped power five years ago, his country was densely peopled; + but he was so severe in his punishments--cropping the ears, + lopping off the hands, and other mutilations, selling the + children for very slight offences, that his subjects gradually + dispersed themselves in the neighbouring countries beyond his + power. This is the common mode by which tyranny is cured in + parts like these, where fugitives are never returned. The + present Casembe is very poor. When he had people who killed + elephants he was too stingy to share the profits of the sale of + the ivory with his subordinates. The elephant hunters have + either left him or neglect hunting, so he has now no tusks to + sell to the Arab traders who come from Tanganyika. Major + Monteiro, the third Portuguese who visited Casembe, appears to + have been badly treated by this man's predecessor, and no other + of his nation has ventured so far since. They do not lose much + by remaining away, for a little ivory and slaves are all that + Casembe ever can have to sell. About a month to the west of this + the people of Katanga smelt copper-ore (malachite) into large + bars shaped like the capital letter I. They may be met with of + from 50 lbs. to 100 lbs., weight all over the country, and the + inhabitants draw the copper into wire for armlets and leglets. + Gold is also found at Katanga, and specimens were lately sent + to the Sultan of Zanzibar. + + As we come down from the watershed towards Tanganyika we enter an + area of the earth's surface still disturbed by internal igneous + action. A hot fountain in the country of Nsama is often used to + boil cassava and maize. Earthquakes are by no means rare. We + experienced the shock of one while at Chitimba's village, and + they extend as far as Casembe's. I felt as if afloat, and as huts + would not fall there was no sense of danger; some of them that + happened at night set the fowls a cackling. The most remarkable + effect of this one was that it changed the rates of the + chronometers; no rain fell after it. No one had access to the + chronometers but myself, and, as I never heard of this effect + before, I may mention that one which lost with great regularity + 1.5 sec. daily, lost 15 sec.; another; whose rate since leaving + the coast was 15 sec., lost 40 sec.; and a third, which gained 6 + sec. daily, stopped altogether. Some of Nsama's people ascribed + the earthquakes to the hot fountain, because it showed unusual + commotion on these occasions; another hot fountain exists near + Tanganyika than Nsama's, and we passed one on the shores of + Moero. + + We could not understand why the natives called Moero much larger + than Tanganyika till we saw both. The greater Lake lies in a + comparatively narrow trough, with highland on each side, which + is always visible; but when we look at Moero, to the south of + the mountains of Rua on the west, we have nothing but an + apparently boundless sea horizon. The Luapula and Rovukwé form a + marsh at the southern extremity, and Casembe dissuaded me from + entering it, but sent a man to guide me to different points of + Moero further down. From the heights at which the southern + portions were seen, it must be from forty to sixty miles broad. + From the south end of the mountains of Rua (9° 4' south lat.) it + is thirty-three miles broad. No native ever attempts to cross + it even there. Its fisheries are of great value to the + inhabitants, and the produce is carried to great distances. + + Among the vegetable products of this region, that which + interested me most was a sort of potato. It does not belong to + the solanaceous, but to the papilionaceous or pea family, and + its flowers have a delightful fragrance. It is easily propagated + by small cuttings of the root or stalk. The tuber is oblong, + like our kidney potato, and when boiled tastes exactly like our + common potato. When unripe it has a slight degree of bitterness, + and it is believed to be wholesome; a piece of the root eaten + raw is a good remedy in nausea. It is met with on the uplands + alone, and seems incapable of bearing much heat, though I kept + some of the roots without earth in a box, which was carried in + the sun almost daily for six months, without destroying their + vegetative power. + + It is remarkable that in all the central regions of Africa + visited, the cotton is that known as the Pernambuco variety. It + has a long strong staple, seeds clustered together, and adherent + to each other. The bushes eight or ten feet high have woody + stems, and the people make strong striped black and white shawls + of the cotton. + + It was pleasant to meet the palm-oil palm (_Elais Guineaensis_) + at Casembe's, which is over 3000 feet above the level of the + sea. The oil is sold cheap, but no tradition exists of its + introduction into the country. + + I send no sketch of the country, because I have not yet passed + over a sufficient surface to give a connected view of the whole + watershed of this region, and I regret that I cannot recommend + any of the published maps I have seen as giving even a tolerable + idea of the country. One bold constructor of maps has tacked on + 200 miles to the north-west end of Lake Nyassa, a feat which no + traveller has ever ventured to imitate. Another has placed a + river in the same quarter running 3000 or 4000 feet up hill, + and named it the "NEW ZAMBESI," because I suppose the old + Zambesi runs down hill. I have walked over both these mental + abortions, and did not know that I was walking on water till I + saw them in the maps. + +[The despatch breaks off at this point. The year concludes with health +impaired. As time goes on we shall see how ominous the conviction was +which made him dread the swamps of Bangweolo.] + +_28-31st December, 1867._--We came on to the rivulet Chirongo, and +then to the Kabukwa, where I was taken ill. Heavy rains kept the +convoy back. I have had nothing but coarsely-ground sorghum meal for +some time back, and am weak; I used to be the first in the line of +march, and am now the last; Mohamad presented a meal of finely-ground +porridge and a fowl, and I immediately felt the difference, though I +was not grumbling at my coarse dishes. It is well that I did not go to +Bangweolo Lake, for it is now very unhealthy to the natives, and I +fear that without medicine continual wettings by fording rivulets +might have knocked me up altogether. As I have mentioned, the people +suffer greatly from swelled thyroid gland or Derbyshire neck and +Elephantiasis scroti. + +_1st January, 1868._--Almighty Father, forgive the sins of the past +year for Thy Son's sake. Help me to be more profitable during this +year. If I am to die this year prepare me for it. + + * * * * * + +I bought five hoes at two or three yards of calico each: they are +13-1/2 inches by 6-1/2 inches; many are made in Casembe's country, and +this is the last place we can find them: when we come into Buiré we +can purchase a good goat for one; one of my goats died and the other +dried up. I long for others, for milk is the most strengthening food +I can get. + +My guide to Moero came to-day, and I visited the Lake several times, +so as to get a good idea of its size. The first fifteen miles in the +north are from twelve or more to thirty-three miles broad. The great +mass of the Rua Mountains confines it. Thus in a clear day a lower +range is seen continued from the high point of the first mass away to +the west south-west, this ends, and sea horizon is alone visible away +to the south and west; from the height we viewed it at, the width must +be over forty, perhaps sixty miles. A large island, called Kirwa,[59] +is situated between the Mandapala and Kabukwa Rivers, but nearest to +the other shore. The natives never attempt to cross any part of the +Lake south of this Kirwa. Land could not be seen with a good glass on +the clearest day we had. I can understand why the natives pronounced +Moero to be larger than Tanganyika: in the last named they see the +land always on both sides; it is like a vast trough flanked with +highlands, but at Moero nothing but sea horizon can be seen when one +looks south-west of the Rua Mountains. + +At the Kalongosi meadow one of Mohamad's men shot a buffalo, and he +gave me a leg of the good beefy flesh. Our course was slow, caused +partly by rains, and partly by waiting for the convoy. The people at +Kalongosi were afraid to ferry us or any of his people in the convoy +out of Casembe's country; but at last we gave a good fee, and their +scruples yielded: they were influenced also by seeing other villagers +ready to undertake the job; the latter nearly fought over us on seeing +that their neighbours got all the fare. + +We then came along the Lake, and close to its shores. The moisture +caused a profusion of gingers, ferns, and tropical forest: buffaloes, +zebras and elephants are numerous, and the villagers at Chukosi's, +where we slept, warned us against lions and leopards. + +_12th January, 1868._--Sunday at Karembwé's village. The mountains +east of him are called Makunga. We went yesterday to the shore, and by +protraction Rua point was distant thirty-three miles. Karembwé sent +for us, to have an audience; he is a large man with a gruff voice, but +liked by his people and by strangers. I gave him a cloth, and he gave +me a goat. The enthusiasm with which I held on to visit Moero had +communicated itself to Tipo Tipo and Syde bin Alle, for they followed +me up to this place to see the Lake, and remained five days while we +were at Casembe's. Other Arabs, or rather Suahelis, must have seen it, +but never mentioned it as anything worth looking at; and it was only +when all hope of ivory was gone that these two headmen found time to +come. There is a large population here. + +_13th January, 1868._--Heavy rains. Karembé mentioned a natural +curiosity as likely to interest me: a little rivulet, Chipamba, goes +some distance underground, but is uninteresting. + +Next day we crossed the Vuna, a strong torrent, which, has a hot +fountain close by the ford, in which maize and cassava may be boiled. +A large one in Nsama's country is used in the same way, maize and +cassava being tied to a string and thrown in to be cooked: some +natives believe that earthquakes are connected with its violent +ebullitions. We crossed the Katétté, another strong torrent, before +reaching the north end of Moero, where we slept in some travellers' +huts. + +Leaving the Lake, and going north, we soon got on to a plain flooded +by the Luao. We had to wade through very adhesive black mud, generally +ankle deep, and having many holes in it much deeper: we had four +hours of this, and then came to the ford of the Luao itself. We waded +up a branch of it waist deep for at least a quarter of a mile, then +crossed a narrow part by means of a rude bridge of branches and trees, +of about forty yards width. The Luao, in spreading over the plains, +confers benefits on the inhabitants, though I could not help +concluding it imparts disease too, for the black mud in places smells +horribly. Great numbers of Siluridae, chiefly _Clarias Capensis_, +often three feet in length, spread over the flooded portions of the +country, eating the young of other fishes, and insects, lizards, and +worms, killed by the waters. The people make weirs for them, and as +the waters retire kill large numbers, which they use as a relish to +their farinaceous food. + +_16th January, 1868._--After sleeping near the Luao we went on towards +the village, in which Mohamad's son lives. It is on the Kakoma Eiver, +and is called Kabwabwata, the village of Mubao. In many of the +villages the people shut their stockades as soon as we appear, and +stand bows and arrows in hand till we have passed: the reason seems to +be that the slaves when out of sight of their masters carry things +with a high hand, demanding food and other things as if they had power +and authority. One slave stole two tobacco pipes yesterday in passing +through a village; the villagers complained to me when I came up, and +I waited till Mohamad came and told him; we then went forward, the men +keeping close to me till we got the slave and the pipes. They stole +cassava as we went along, but this could scarcely be prevented. They +laid hold of a plant an inch-and-a-half thick, and tore it out of the +soft soil with its five or six roots as large as our largest carrots, +stowed the roots away in their loads, and went on eating them; but the +stalk thrown among those still growing shows the theft. The raw roots +are agreeable and nutritious. No great harm is done by this, for the +gardens are so large, but it inspires distrust in the inhabitants, and +makes it dangerous for Arabs to travel not fully manned and armed. + +On reaching the village Kabwabwata a great demonstration was made by +Mohamad's Arab dependants and Wanyamwesi: the women had their faces +all smeared with pipeclay, and lullilooed with all their might. When +we came among the huts, they cast handfuls of soil on their heads, +while the men fired off their guns as fast as they could load them. +Those connected with Mohamad ran and kissed his hands, and fired, till +the sound of shouting, lullilooing, clapping of hands, and shooting +was deafening: Mohamad was quite overcome by this demonstration, and +it was long before he could still them. + +On the way to this village from the south we observed an extensive +breadth of land, under ground-nuts which are made into oil: a large +jar of this is sold for a hoe. The ground-nuts were now in flower, and +green maize ready to be eaten. People all busy planting, +transplanting, or weeding; they plant cassava on mounds prepared for +it, on which they have sown beans, sorghum, maize, pumpkins: these +ripen, and leave the cassava a free soil. The sorghum or dura is sown +thickly, and when about a foot high--if the owner has been able to +prepare the soil elsewhere--it is transplanted, a portion of the +leaves being cut off to prevent too great evaporation and the death of +the plant. + +_17th January, 1868._--The Wanyamwesi and people of Garaganza say that +we have thirteen days' march from this to the Tanganyika Lake. It is +often muddy, and many rivulets are to be crossed. + +Mohamad is naturally anxious to stay a little while with his son, for +it is a wet season, and the mud is disagreeable to travel over: it is +said to be worse near Ujiji: he cooks small delicacies for me with the +little he has, and tries to make me comfortable. Vinegar is made from +bananas, and oil from ground-nuts. I am anxious to be off, but +chiefly to get news. + +I find that many Unyamwesi people are waiting here, on account of the +great quantity of rainwater in front: it would be difficult, they say, +to get canoes on Tanganyika, as the waves are now large. + +_24th January, 1868._--Two of Mohamad Bogharib's people came from +Casembe's to trade here, and a body of Syde bin Habib's people also +from Garaganza, near Kazé, they report the flooded lands on this side +of Lake Tanganyika as waist and chest deep. Bin Habib, being at +Katanga, will not stir till the rains are over, and I fear we are +storm-stayed till then too. The feeders of the Marungu are not +fordable just now, and no canoes are to be had. + +_26th and 27th January, 1868._--I am ill with fever, as I always am +when stationary. + +_28th January, 1868._--Better, and thankful to Him of the Greatest +Name. We must remain; it is a dry spot, and favourable for +ground-nuts. _Hooping-cough_ here. + +_30th January, 1868._--The earth cooled by the rain last night sets +all to transplanting dura or sorghum; they cut the leaves till only +about eighteen inches of them are left, but it grows all the better +for the change of place. + +Mohamad believes that Tanganyika flows through Rusizi to Lohindé. +(Chuambo.) + +Seyd Seyd is said to have been the first Arab Sultan who traded, and +Seyed Majid follows the example of his father, and has many Arab +traders in his employment. He lately sent eight buffaloes to Mtéza, +king of Uganda, son of Sunna, by way of increasing his trade, but if +is not likely that he will give up the lucrative trade in ivory and +slaves. + +Susi bought a hoe with a little gunpowder, then a cylinder of dura, +three feet long by two feet in diameter, for the hoe: it is at least +one hundredweight. + +Stone underground houses are reported in Rua, but whether natural or +artificial Mohamad could not say. If a present is made to the Rua +chiefs they never obstruct passengers. + +Chikosi, at whose village we passed a night, near Kalongosi, and +Chiputa are both dead. + +The Mofwé fills during the greater rains, and spreads over a large +district; elephants then wander in its marshes, and are killed easily +by people in canoes: this happens every year, and Mohamad Bogharib +waits now for this ivory. + +_7th to 21st February, 1868._--On inquiring of men who lave seen the +underground houses in Rua, I find that they are very extensive, +ranging along mountain sides for twenty miles, and in one part a +rivulet flows inside. In some cases the doorways are level with the +country adjacent: in others, ladders are used to climb up to them; +inside they are said to be very large, and not the work of men, but of +God. The people have plenty of fowls, and they too obtain shelter in +these Troglodyte habitations. + +_23rd February, 1868._--I was visited by an important chief called +Chapé, who said that he wanted to make friends with the English. He, +Chisapi, Sama, Muabo, Karembwé, are of one tribe or family, the Oanza: +he did not beg anything, and promised to send me a goat. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[59] Kirwa and its various corruptions, such as Shirwa, Chirua, and +Kiroa, perpetually recur in Africa, and would almost seem to stand for +"the island."--ED. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + Riot in the camp. Mohamad's account of his long imprisonment. + Superstitions about children's teeth. Concerning dreams. News of + Lake Chowambé. Life of the Arab slavers. The Katanga gold + supply. Muabo. Ascent of the Rua Mountains. Syde bin Habib. + Birthday 19th March, 1868. Hostility of Mpwéto. Contemplates + visiting Lake Bemba. Nile sources. Men desert. The shores of + Moero. Visits Fungafunga. Beturn to Casembe's. Obstructiveness + of "Cropped-ears." Accounts of Pereira and Dr. Lacerda. Major + Monteiro. The line of Casembe's. Casembe explains the connection + of the Lakes and the Luapula. Queen Moäri. Arab sacrifice. + Kapika gets rid of his wife. + +_24th February, 1868._--Some slaves who came with Mohamad Bogharib's +agent, abused my men this morning, as bringing unclean meat into the +village to sell, though it had been killed by a man of the Wanyamwesi. +They called out, "Kaffir, Kaffir!" and Susi, roused by this, launched +forth with a stick; the others joined in the row, and the offenders +were beat off, but they went and collected all their number and +renewed the assault. One threw a heavy block of wood and struck Simon +on the head, making him quite insensible and convulsed for some time. +He has three wounds on the head, which may prove serious. This is the +first outburst of Mohamadan bigotry we have met, and by those who know +so little of the creed that it is questionable if one of them can +repeat the formula: "La illaha illa lahu Mohamad Rasulela salla lahu, +a leihi oa Salama." Simon recovered, but Gallahs are in general not +strong. + +_25th February, 1868._--Mohamad called on me this morning to apologise +for the outrage of yesterday, but no one was to blame except the +slaves, and I wanted no punishment inflicted if they were cautioned +for the future. It seems, plain that if they do not wish to buy the +unclean meat they can let it alone,--no harm is done. The Wanyamwesi +kill for all, and some Mohamadans say that they won't eat of it, but +their wives and people do eat it privately. + +I asked Mohamad to-day if it were true that he was a prisoner at +Casembe's. He replied, "Quite so." Some Garaganza people, now at +Katanga, fought with Casembe, and Mohamad was suspected of being +connected with them. Casembe attacked his people, and during the +turmoil a hundred frasilahs of copper were stolen from him, and many +of his people killed. Casembe kept him a prisoner till sixty of his +people were either killed or died, among these Mohamad's eldest son: +he was thus reduced to poverty. He gave something to Casembe to allow +him to depart, and I suspect that my Sultan's letter had considerable +influence in inducing Casembe to accede to his request, for he +repeated again and again in my hearing that he must pay respect to my +letter, and see me safe at least as far as Ujiji. Mohamad says that he +will not return to Casembe again, but will begin to trade with some +other chief: it is rather hard for a man at his age to begin _de +novo_. He is respected among the Arabs, who pronounce him to be a good +man. He says that he has been twenty-two years in Africa, and never +saw an outburst like that of yesterday among the Wanyamwesi: it is, +however, common for the people at Ujiji to drink palm toddy, and then +have a general row in the bazaar, but no bad feeling exists next day. + +If a child cuts the upper front teeth before the lower, it is killed, +as unlucky: this is a widely-spread superstition. When I was amongst +the Makololo in 1859 one of Sekelétu's wives would not allow her +servant's child to be killed for this, but few would have the courage +to act in opposition to public feeling as she did. In Casembe's +country if a child is seen to turn from one side to the other in +sleep it is killed. They say of any child who has what they consider +these defects "he is an Arab child," because the Arabs have none of +this class of superstitions, and should any Arab be near they give the +child to him: it would bring ill-luck, misfortunes, "milando," or +guilt, to the family. These superstitions may account for the +readiness with which one tribe parted with their children to Speke's +followers. Mohamad says that these children must have been taken in +war, as none sell their own offspring. + +If Casembe dreams of any man twice or three times he puts the man to +death, as one who is practising secret arts against his life: if any +one is pounding or cooking food for him he must preserve the strictest +silence; these and other things show extreme superstition and +degradation. + +During, his enforced detention Mohamad's friends advised him to leave +Casembe by force, offering to aid him with their men, but he always +refused. His father was the first to open this country to trade with +the Arabs, and all his expenses while so doing were borne by himself; +but Mohamad seems to be a man of peace, and unwilling to break the +appearance of friendship with the chiefs. He thinks that this Casembe +poisoned his predecessor: he certainly killed his wife's mother, a +queen, that she might be no obstacle to him in securing her daughter. + +We are waiting in company with a number of Wanyamwesi for the +cessation of the rains, which have flooded the country between this +and Tanganyika. If there were much slope this water would flow off: +this makes me suspect that Tanganyika is not so low as Speke's +measurement. The Arabs are positive that water flows from that Lake to +the Victoria Nyanza, and assert that Dagara, the father of Rumanyika, +was anxious to send canoes from his place to Ujiji, or, as some say, +to dig a canal to Ujiji. The Wanyamwesi here support themselves by +shooting buffaloes, at a place two days distant, and selling the meat +for grain and cassava: no sooner is it known that an animal is killed, +than the village women crowd in here, carrying their produce to +exchange it for meat, which they prefer to beads or anything else. +Their farinaceous food creates a great craving for flesh: were my +shoes not done I would go in for buffaloes too. + +A man from the upper part of Tanganyika gives the same account of the +river from Rusisi that Burton and Speke received when they went to its +mouth. He says that the water of the Lake goes up some distance, but +is met by Rusisi water, and driven back thereby. The Lake water, he +adds, finds an exit northwards and eastwards by several small rivers +which would admit small canoes only. They pour into Lake +Chowambé--probably that discovered by Mr. Baker. This Chowambé is in +Hundi, the country of cannibals, but the most enlightened informants +leave the impression on the mind of groping in the dark: it may be all +different when we come to see it. + +The fruit of the palm, which yields palm-oil, is first of all boiled, +then pounded in a mortar, then put into hot or boiling water, and the +oil skimmed off. The palm-oil is said to be very abundant at Ujiji, as +much as 300 gallons being often brought into the bazaar for sale in +one morning; the people buy it eagerly for cooking purposes. Mohamad +says that the Island of Pemba, near Zanzibar, contains many of these +palms, but the people are ignorant of the mode of separating the oil +from the nut: they call the palm Nkoma at Casembe's, and Chikichi at +Zanzibar.[60] + +No better authority for what has been done or left undone by +Mohamadans in this country can be found than Mohamad bin Saleh, for he +is very intelligent, and takes an interest in all that happens, and +his father was equally interested in this country's affairs. He +declares that no attempt was ever made by Mohamadans to proselytize +the Africans: they teach their own children to read the Koran, but +them only; it is never translated, and to servants who go to the +Mosque it is all dumb show. Some servants imbibe Mohamadan bigotry +about eating, but they offer no prayers. Circumcision, to make +_halel_, or fit to slaughter the animals for their master, is the +utmost advance any have made. As the Arabs in East Africa never feel +themselves called on to propagate the doctrines of Islam, among the +heathen Africans, the statement of Captain Burton that they would make +better missionaries to the Africans than Christians, because they +would not insist on the abandonment of polygamy, possesses the same +force as if he had said Mohamadans would catch more birds than +Christians, because they would put salt on their tails. The +indispensable requisite or qualification for any kind of missionary is +that he have some wish to proselytize: this the Arabs do not possess +in the slightest degree. + +As they never translate the Koran, they neglect the best means of +influencing the Africans, who invariably wish to understand what they +are about. When we were teaching adults the alphabet, they felt it a +hard task. "Give me medicine, I shall drink it to make me understand +it," was their earnest entreaty. When they have advanced so far as to +form clear conceptions of Old Testament and Gospel histories, they +tell them to their neighbours; and, on visiting distant tribes, feel +proud to show how much they know: in this way the knowledge of +Christianity becomes widely diffused. Those whose hatred to its +self-denying doctrines has become developed by knowledge, propagate +slanders; but still they speak of Christianity, and awaken attention. +The plan, therefore, of the Christian missionary in imparting +knowledge is immeasurably superior to that of the Moslem in dealing +with dumb show. I have, however, been astonished to see that none of +the Africans imitate the Arab prayers: considering their great +reverence of the Deity, it is a wonder that they do not learn to +address prayers to Him except on very extraordinary occasions. + +My remarks referring to the education by Mohamadans do not refer to +the Suahelis, for they teach their children to read, and even send +them to school. They are the descendants of Arab and African women and +inhabit the coast line. Although they read, they understand very +little Arabic beyond the few words which have been incorporated into +Suaheli. The establishment of Moslem missions among the heathen is +utterly unknown, and this is remarkable, because the Wanyamwesi, for +instance, are very friendly with the Arabs--are great traders, too, +like them, and are constantly employed as porters and native traders, +being considered very trustworthy. They even acknowledge Seyed Majid's +authority. The Arabs speak of all the Africans as _"Gumu_" that is +hard or callous to the Mohamadan religion. + +Some believe that Kilimanjaro Mountain has mummies, as in Egypt, and +that Moses visited it of old. + +Mungo Park mentions that he found the Africans in the far interior of +the west in possession of the stories of Joseph and his brethren, and +others. They probably got them from the Koran, as verbally explained +by some liberal Mullah, and showed how naturally they spread any new +ideas they obtained: they were astonished to find that Park knew the +stories. + +The people at Katanga are afraid to dig for the gold in their country +because they believe that it has been hidden where it is by "Ngolu," +who is the owner of it. The Arabs translate Ngolu by Satan: it means +Mézimo, or departed spirits, too. The people are all oppressed by +their superstitions; the fear of death is remarkably strong. The +Wagtails are never molested, because, if they were killed, death +would visit the village; this too is the case with the small Whydah +birds, the fear of death in the minds of the people saves them from +molestation. But why should we be so prone to criticise? A remnant of +our own superstitions is seen in the prejudice against sitting down +thirteen to dinner, spilling the salt, and not throwing a little of it +over the left shoulder. Ferdinand I., the King of Naples, in passing +through the streets, perpetually put one hand into his pockets to +cross the thumb over the finger in order to avert the influence of the +evil eye! + +On the 6th, Muabo, the great chief of these parts, came to call on +Mohamad: several men got up and made some antics before him, then +knelt down and did obeisance, then Muabo himself jumped about a +little, and all applauded. He is a good-natured-looking man, fond of a +joke, and always ready with a good-humoured smile: he was praised very +highly, Mpwéto was nothing to Muabo mokolu, the great Muabo; and he +returned the praise by lauding Tipo Tipo and Mpamari, Mohamad's native +name, which means, "Give me wealth, or goods." Mohamad made a few of +the ungainly antics like the natives, and all were highly pleased, and +went off rejoicing. + +Some Arabs believe that a serpent on one of the islands in the Nyanza +Lake has the power of speaking, and is the same that beguiled Eve. It +is a crime at Ujiji to kill a serpent, even though it enters a house +and kills a kid! The native name, for the people of Ujiji is Wayeiyé, +the very same as the people on the Zouga, near Lake Ngami. They are +probably an offshoot from Ujiji.[61] + +There are underground stone houses in Kabiuré, in the range called +Kakoma, which is near to our place of detention. _15th March, +1868._--The roots of the Nyumbo or Noombo open in four or five months +from the time of planting, those planted by me on the 6th February +have now stalks fifteen inches long. The root is reported to be a very +wholesome food, never disagreeing with the stomach; and the raw root +is an excellent remedy in obstinate vomiting and nausea; four or five +tubers are often given by one root, in Marungu they attain a size of +six inches in length by two in diameter. + +_16th March, 1868._--We started for Mpwéto's village, which is +situated on the Lualaba, and in our course crossed the Lokinda, which +had a hundred yards of flood water on each side of it. The river +itself is forty yards wide, with a rude bridge over it, as it flows +fast away into Moero. + +Next day we ascended the Rua Mountains, and reached the village of +Mpwéto, situated in a valley between two ridges, about one mile from +the right bank of the Lualaba, where it comes through the mountains. +It then flows about two miles along the base of a mountain lying east +and west before it begins to make northing: its course is reported to +be very winding, this seems additional evidence that Tanganyika is not +in a depression of only 1844 feet above the sea, otherwise the water +of Lualaba would flow faster and make a straighter channel. It is said +to flow into the Lufira, and that into Tanganyika. + +_18th March, 1868._--On reaching Mpwéto's yesterday we were taken up +to the house of Syde bin Habib, which is built on a ridge overhanging +the chiefs village, a square building of wattle and plaster, and a mud +roof to prevent it being fired by an enemy. It is a very pretty spot +among the mountains. Sariama is Bin Habib's agent, and he gave us a +basket of flour and leg of kid. I sent a message to Mpwéto, which he +politely answered by saying that he had no food ready in his village, +but if we waited two days he would have some prepared, and would then +see us. He knew what we should give him, and he need not tell us I +met a man from Seskéké, left sick at Kirwa by Bin Habib and now with +him here. + +A very beautiful young woman came to look at us, perfect in every way, +and nearly naked, but unconscious of indecency; a very Venus in black. +The light-grey, red-tailed parrot seen on the West Coast is common in +Rua, and tamed by the natives.[62] + +_19th March, 1868._[63]--(Grant, Lord, grace to love Thee more and +serve Thee better.) + +The favourite son of Mpwéto called on us; his father is said to do +nothing without consulting him; but he did not seem to be endowed with +much wisdom. + +_20th and 21st March, 1868._--Our interview was put off; and then a +sight of the cloth we were to give was required. I sent a good large +cloth, and explained that we were nearly out of goods now, having been +travelling two years, and were going to Ujiji to get more. Mpwéto had +prepared a quantity of pombe, a basket of meal, and a goat; and when +he looked at them and the cloth, he seemed to feel that it would be a +poor bargain, so he sent to say that we had gone to Casembe and given +him many cloths, and then to Muabo, and if I did not give another +cloth he would not see me. "He had never slept with only one cloth." +"I had put medicine on this one to kill him, and must go away." + +It seems he was offended because we went to his great rival, Muabo, +before visiting him. He would not see Syde bin Habib for eight days; +and during that time was using charms to try if it would be safe to +see him at all: on the ninth day he peeped past a door for some time +to see if Bin Habib were a proper person, and then came out: he is +always very suspicious. + +At last he sent an order to us to go away, and if we did not move, he +would come with all his people and drive us off. Sariamo said if he +were not afraid for Syde bin Habib's goods, he would make a stand +against Mpwéto; but I had no wish to stay or to quarrel with a +worthless chief, and resolved to go next day. (_24th March._) He +abused a native trader with his tongue for coming to trade, and sent +him away too. We slept again at our half-way village, Kapemba, just as +a party of salt-traders from Rua came into it: they were tall, +well-made men, and rather dark. + +_25th March, 1868._--Reached Kabwabwata at noon, and were welcomed by +Mohamad and all the people. His son, Sheikh But, accompanied us; but +Mohamad told us previously that it was likely Mpwéto would refuse to +see us. + +The water is reported to be so deep in front that it is impossible to +go north: the Wanyamwesi, who are detained here as well as we, say it +is often more than a man's depth, and there are no canoes. They would +not stop here if a passage home could be made. I am thinking of going +to Lake Bemba, because at least two months must be passed here still +before a passage can be made; but my goods are getting done, and I +cannot give presents to the chiefs on our way. + +This Lake has a sandy, not muddy bottom, as we were at first informed, +and there are four islands in it, one, the Bangweolo, is very large, +and many people live on it; they have goats and sheep in abundance: +the owners of canoes demand three hoes for the hire of one capable of +carrying eight or ten persons; beyond this island it is sea horizon +only. The tsébula and nzoé antelopes abound. The people desire salt +and not beads for sale. + +_2nd April, 1868._--If I am not deceived by the information I have +received from various reliable sources, the springs of the Nile rise +between 9° and 10° south latitude, or at least 400 or 500 miles south +of the south end of Speke's Lake, which he considered to be the +sources of the Nile. Tanganyika is declared to send its water through +north into Lake Chowambé or Baker's Lake; if this does not prove +false, then Tanganyika is an expansion of the Nile, and so is Lake +Chowambé; the two Lakes being connected by the River Loanda. +Unfortunately the people on the east side of the Loanda are constantly +at war with the people on the west of it, or those of Rusisi. The +Arabs have been talking of opening up a path through to Chowambé, +where much ivory is reported; I hope that the Most High may give me a +way there. + +_11th April, 1868._--I had a long oration from Mohamad yesterday +against going off for Bemba to-morrow. His great argument is the +extortionate way of Casembe, who would demand cloth, and say that in +pretending to go to Ujiji I had told him lies: he adds to this +argument that this is the last month of the rains; the Masika has +begun, and our way north will soon be open. The fact of the matter is +that Mohamad, by not telling me of the superabundance of water in the +country of the Marungu, which occurs every year, caused me to lose +five months. He knew that we should be detained here, but he was so +eager to get out of his state of durance with Casembe that he hastened +my departure by asserting that we should be at Ujiji in one month. I +regret this deception, but it is not to be wondered at, and in a +Mohamadan and in a Christian too it is thought clever. Were my goods +not nearly done I would go, and risk the displeasure of Casembe for +the chance of discovering the Lake Bemba. I thought once of buying +from Mohamad Bogharib, but am afraid that his stock may be getting low +too: I fear that I must give up this Lake for the present. + +_12th April, 1868._--I think of starting to-morrow for Bangweolo, even +if Casembe refuses a passage beyond him: we shall be better there than +we are here, for everything at Kabwabwata is scarce and dear. There we +can get a fowl for one string of beads, here it costs six: there fish +may be bought, here none. Three of Casembe's principal men are here, +Kakwata, Charley, and Kapitenga; they are anxious to go home, and +would be a gain to me, but Mohamad detains them, and when I ask his +reason he says "Muabo refuses," but they point to Mohamad's house and +say, "It is he who refuses." + +[A very serious desertion took place at this time amongst Dr. +Livingstone's followers. Not to judge them too harshly they had become +to a great extent demoralised by camp life with Mohamad and his horde +of slaves and slavers. The Arab tried all he could to dissuade the +traveller from proceeding south instead of homewards through Ujiji, +and the men seem to have found their own breaking-point where this +disappointment occurred.] + +_13th April, 1868._--On preparing to start this morning my people +refused to go: the fact is, they are all tired, and Mohamad's +opposition encourages them. Mohamad, who was evidently eager to make +capital out of their refusal, asked me to remain over to-day, and then +demanded what I was going to do with those who had absconded. I said, +"Nothing: if a magistrate were on the spot, I would give them over to +him." "Oh," said he, "I am magistrate, shall I apprehend them?" To +this I assented. He repeated this question till it was tiresome: I saw +his reason long afterwards, when he asserted that I "came to him and +asked him to bind them, but he had refused:" he wanted to appear to +the people as much better than I am. + +_14th April, 1868._--I start off with five attendants, leaving most of +the luggage with Mohamad, and reach the Luao to spend the night. +Headman Ndowa. + +_15th April, 1868._--Amoda ran away early this morning. "Wishes to +stop with his brothers." They think that, by refusing to go to Bemba, +they will force me to remain with them, and then go to Ujiji: one of +them has infused the idea into their minds that I will not pay them, +and exclaims "Look at the sepoys!"--not knowing that they are paid by +the Indian Government; and as for the Johanna men, they were prepaid +_29l. 4s._ in cash, besides clothing. I sent Amoda's bundle back to +Mohamad: my messenger got to Kabwabwata before Amoda did, and he +presented himself to my Arab friend, who, of course, scolded him: he +replied that he was tired of carrying, and no other fault had he; I +may add that I found out that Amoda wished to come south to me with +one of Mohamad Bogharib's men, but "Mpamari" told him not to return. +Now that I was fairly started, I told my messenger to say to Mohamad +that I would on no account go to Ujiji, till I had done all in my +power to reach the Lake I sought: I would even prefer waiting at Luao +or Moero, till people came to me from Ujiji to supplant the runaways. +I did not blame them very severely in my own mind for absconding: they +were tired of tramping, and so verily am I, but Mohamad, in +encouraging them to escape to him, and talking with a double tongue, +cannot be exonerated from blame. Little else can be expected from him, +he has lived some thirty-five years in the country, twenty-five being +at Casembe's, and there he had often to live by his wits. +Consciousness of my own defects makes me lenient. + +_16th April, 1868._--Ndowa gives Mita or Mpamańkanana as the names of +the excavations in Muabo's hills, he says that they are sufficient to +conceal all the people of this district in case of war: I conjecture +that this implies room for ten thousand people: provisions are stored +in them, and a perennial rivulet runs along a whole street of them. On +one occasion, when the main entrance was besieged by an enemy, someone +who knew all the intricacies of the excavations led a party out by a +secret passage, and they, coming over the invaders, drove them off +with heavy loss. Their formation is universally ascribed to the Deity. +This may mean that the present inhabitants have succeeded the original +burrowing race, which dug out many caves adjacent to Mount Hor--the +_Jebel Nébi Harin_, Mount of the Prophet Aaron, of the Arabs--and many +others; and even the Bushman caves, a thousand miles south of this +region. + +A very minute, sharp-biting mosquito is found here: the women try to +drive them out of their huts by whisking bundles of green leaves all +round the walls before turning into them. + +_17th August, 1868._--Crossed the Luao by a bridge, thirty yards long, +and more than half a mile of flood on each side; passed many villages, +standing on little heights, which overlook plains filled with water. +Some three miles of grassy plains abreast of Moero were the deepest +parts, except the banks of Luao. We had four hours of wading, the +bottom being generally black tenacious mud. Ruts had been formed in +the paths by the feet of passengers: these were filled with soft mud, +and, as they could not be seen, the foot was often placed on the edge, +and when the weight came on it, down it slumped into the mud, half-way +up the calves; it was difficult to draw it out, and very fatiguing. To +avoid these ruts we encroached on the grass at the sides of the paths, +but often stepping on the unseen edge of a rut, we floundered in with +both feet to keep the balance, and this was usually followed by a rush +of bubbles to the surface, which, bursting, discharged foul air of +frightful faecal odour. In parts, the black mud and foul water were +cold, in others hot, according as circulation went on or not. When we +came near Moero, the water became half-chest and whole-chest deep; all +perishable articles had to be put on the head. We found a party of +fishermen on the sands, and I got a hut, a bath in the clear but tepid +waters, and a delicious change of dress. Water of Lake, 83° at 3 P.M. + +_18th April, 1868._--We marched along the north end of Moero, which +has a south-east direction. The soft yielding sand which is flanked by +a broad belt of tangled tropical vegetation and trees, added to the +fatigues of yesterday, so finding a deserted fisherman's village near +the eastern hills, we gladly made it our quarters for Sunday (19th). I +made no mark, but the Lake is at least twenty feet higher now than it +was on our first visits, and there are banks showing higher rises even +than this. + +Large fish-baskets made of split reeds are used in trios for catching +small fish; one man at each basket drives fish ashore. + +_20th April, 1868._--Went on to Katétté River, and then to a strong +torrent; slept at a village on the north bank of the River Vuna, +where, near the hills, is a hot fountain, sometimes used to cook +cassava and maize. + +_21st April, 1868._--Crossed the Vuna and went on to Kalembwé's +village, meeting the chief at the gate, who guided us to a hut, and +manifested great curiosity to see all our things; he asked if we could +not stop next day and drink beer, which would then be ready. Leopards +abound here. The Lake now seems broader than ever. + +I could not conceive that a hole in the cartilage of the nose could be +turned to any account except to hold an ornament, though that is +usually only a bit of grass, but a man sewing the feathers on his +arrows used his nose-hole for holding a needle! In coming on to +Kangalola we found the country swimming: I got separated from the +company, though I saw them disappear in the long grass not a hundred +yards off and shouted, but the splashing of their feet prevented any +one hearing. I could not find a path going south, so I took one to the +east to a village; the grass was so long and tangled, I could scarcely +get along, at last I engaged a man to show me the main path south, and +he took me to a neat village of a woman--Nyinakasangaand would go no +further, "Mother Kasanga," as the name means, had been very handsome, +and had a beautiful daughter, probably another edition of herself, she +advised my waiting in the deep shade of the Ficus indica, in which her +houses were placed. I fired a gun, and when my attendants came gave +her a string of beads, which made her express distress at my "leaving +without drinking anything of hers." People have abandoned several +villages on account of the abundance of ferocious wild beasts. + +_23rd April, 1868._--Through very thick tangled Nyassi grass to +Chikosi's burned village; Nsama had killed him. We spent the night in +a garden hut, which the fire of the village had spared. Turnips were +growing in the ruins. The Nyassi, or long coarse grass, hangs over the +paths, and in pushing it aside the sharp seeds penetrate the clothes +and are very annoying. The grass itself rubs on the face and eyes +disagreeably: when it is burned off and greensward covers the soil it +is much more pleasant walking. + +24th _April, 1868._--We leave Chikosi's ruins and make for the ford of +the Kalungosi. Marigolds are in full bloom all over the forest, and so +are foxgloves. The river is here fully 100 yards broad with 300 yards +of flood on its western bank; so deep we had to remain in the canoes +till within 50 yards of the higher ground. The people here chew the +pith of the papyrus, which is three inches in diameter and as white as +snow: it has very little sweetness or anything else in it. The headman +of the village to which we went was out cutting wood for a garden, and +his wife refused us a hut, but when Kansabala came in the evening he +scolded his own spouse roundly and all the wives of the village, and +then pressed me to come indoors, but I was well enough in my mosquito +curtain without, and declined: I was free from insects and vermin, and +few huts are so. + +_25th April, 1868._--Off early west, and then on to an elevated forest +land, in which our course was S.S.W. to the great bend of the rivulet +Kifurwa, which enters Moero near to the mouth of the Kalungosi. + +_26th April, 1868._--Here we spent Sunday in our former woodcutters' +huts. Yesterday we were met by a party of the same occupation, laden +with bark-cloth, which they had just been stripping off the trees. +Their leader would not come along the path because I was sitting near +it: I invited him to do so, but it would have been disrespectful to +let his shadow fall on any part of my person, so he went a little out +of the way: this politeness is common. + +_27th April, 1868._--But a short march to Fungafunga's village: we +could have gone on to the Muatizé, but no village exists there, and +here we could buy food. Fungafunga's wife gave a handsome supper to +the stranger: on afterwards acknowledging it to her husband he said, +"That is your village; always go that way and eat my provisions." He +is a Monyamwezi trading in the country for copper, hoes, and slaves. +Parrots are here in numbers stealing Holcus sorghum in spite of the +shouts of the women. + +We cross Muatizé by a bridge of one large tree, getting a good view of +Moero from a hill near Kabukwa, and sleep at Chirongo River. + +_29th April, 1868._--At the Mandapala River. Some men here from the +Chungu, one of whom claimed to be a relative of Casembe, made a great +outcry against our coming a second time to Casembe without waiting at +the Kalungosi for permission. One of them, with his ears cropped short +off, asked me when I was departing north if I should come again. I +replied, "Yes, I think I shall." They excited themselves by calling +over the same thing again and again. "The English come the second +time!" "The second time--the second time--the country spoiled! Why not +wait at the Kalungosi? Let him return thither." "Come from Mpamari +too, and from the Bagaraganza or Banyamwezi!!" "The second time--the +second time!" Then all the adjacent villagers were called in to +settle this serious affair. I look up to that higher Power to +influence their minds as He has often done before. I persuaded them to +refer the matter to Casembe himself by sending a man with one of mine +up to the town. They would not consent to go on to the Chungu, as the +old cropped-eared man would have been obliged to come back the +distance again, he having been on the way to the Kalungosi as a +sentinel of the ford. Casembe is reasonable and fair, but his people +are neither, and will do anything to mulct either strangers or their +own countrymen. + +_30th April, 1868._--The cold of winter has begun, and dew is +deposited in great quantities, but all the streams are very high in +flood, though the rains have ceased here some time. + +_1st May, 1868._--At the Mandapala River. I sent a request to Mohamad +Bogharib to intercede with Casembe for me for a man to show the way to +Chikumbi, who is near to Bangweolo. I fear that I have become mixed up +in the Lunda mind with Mpamari (Mohamad bin Saleh), from having gone +off with him and returning ere we reached Ujiji, whither ostensibly we +were bound. I may be suspected of being in his confidence, and of +forwarding his plans by coming back. A deaf and dumb man appears among +the people here, making signs exactly as I have seen such do in +England, and occasionally emitting a low unmodulated guttural drawl +like them. + +_3rd May, 1868._--Abraham, my messenger, came back, while we were at +afternoon prayers, with good news for us, but what made Cropped-ears +quite chopfallen was that Casembe was quite gracious! He did not wish +me to go away, and now I am welcome back; and as soon as we hear of +peace at Chikumbi's we shall have a man to conduct us thither. The +Mazitu were reported to have made an inroad into Chikumbi's country; +and it was said that chief had fled, and Casembe had sent messengers +to hear the truth. Thanks to the Most High for His kindness and +influence. + +_4th May, 1868._--We leave the Mandapala. Cropped-ears, whose name I +never heard, collapsed at once on hearing the message of Casembe: +before that I never heard such a babbler, to every one passing, man or +woman, he repeated the same insinuations about the English, and +"Mpamari," and the Banyamwezi,--conspiracy--guilt--return a second +time,--till, like a meddling lawyer, he thought that he had really got +an important case in hand! + +The River Chungu we found to be from fifteen to eighteen yards broad +and breast deep, with at least one hundred yards of flood, before we +reached the main stream, the Mandapala. The Chungu and the Lundi join +in the country called Kimbafuma, about twelve miles from our +crossing-place of Mandapala, and about west of it. The Lundi was now +breast deep too, and twelve yards broad. + +On reaching Casembe's, on the Mofwé, we found Mohamad Bogharib digging +and fencing up a well to prevent his slaves being taken away by the +crocodiles, as three had been eaten already. A dog bit the leg of one +of my goats so badly that I was obliged to kill it: they are nasty +curs here, without courage, and yet they sometimes bite people badly. +I met some old friends, and Mohamad Bogharib cooked a supper, and from +this time forward never omitted sharing his victuals with me. + +_6th May, 1868._--Manoel Caetano Pereira visited Casembe in 1796, or +seventy-two years ago: his native name was Moendo-mondo, or the +world's leg--"world-wide traveller!" He came to Mandapala, for there +the Casembe of the time resided, and he had a priest or "Kasisé" with +him, and many people with guns. Pérémbé, the oldest man now in Lunda, +had children even then: if Pérémbé were thirty years of age at that +period he would now be 102 years old, and he seems quite that, for +when Dr. Lacerda came he had forty children. He says that Pereira +fired off all his guns on his arrival, and Casembe asking him what he +meant by that, he replied, "These guns ask for slaves and ivory," both +of which were liberally given. + +I could not induce Pérémbé to tell anything of times previous to his +own. Moendo-mondo, the world's leg (Pereira), told Dr. Lacerda that +the natives called him "The Terror!"--a bit of vanity, for they have +no such word or abstract term in their language. + +When Major Monteiro was here the town of Casembe was on the same spot +as now, but the Mosumba, or enclosure of the chief, was about 500 +yards S.E. of the present one. Monteiro went nowhere and did nothing, +but some of his attendants went over to the Luapula, some six miles +distant. He complains in his book of having been robbed by the Casembe +of the time. On asking the present occupant of the office why +Monteiro's goods were taken from him, he replied, that he was then +living at another village and did not know of the affair. Mohamad bin +Saleh was present, and he says that Monteiro's statement is false: no +goods were forced from him; but it was a year of scarcity, and +Monteiro had to spend his goods in buying food instead of slaves and +ivory, and made up the tale of Casembe plundering him to appease his +creditors. + +A number of men were sent with Monteiro as an honorary escort. Kapika, +an old man now living, was the chief or one of the chiefs of this +party, and he says that he went to Tette, Senna, and Quillimane with +Monteiro: this honorary escort seems confirmatory of Mohamad's +explanation, for had Casembe robbed the Major none would have been +granted or received. + +It is warmer here than we found it in the way; clouds cover the sky +and prevent radiation. The sorghum is now in full ear. People make +very neat mats of the leaves of the Shuaré palm. I got lunars this +time. + +_9th May, 1868._--Eight or ten men went past us this morning, sent by +the chief to catch people whom he intends to send to his paramount +chief, Matiamvo, as a tribute of slaves. Pérémbé gives the following +list of the Casembes:-- + + I. KANYIMBE, came from Lunda, attracted by the + fish of Mofwé and Moero, and conquered + Pérémbé's forefather, Katéré, who planted the + first palm-oil palms here from seeds got in + Lunda. It is probable that the intercourse + then set afoot led to Kanyimbé's coming and + conquest. + II. KINYANTA. + III. NGUANDA MILONDA. + IV. KANYEMBO. + V. LEKWISA. + VI. KIRÉKA. + VII. KAPUMBA. + VIII. KINYANTA. + IX. LEKWISA, still alive, but a fugitive at Nsama's. + X. MUONGA, the present ruler, who drove Lékwisa + away. + +The Portuguese came to Kiréka, who is said to have been very liberal +with presents of ivory, slaves, and cattle. The present man has good +sense, and is very fair in his judgments, but stingy towards his own +people as well as strangers: nevertheless I have had good reason to be +satisfied with his conduct to me. Maiyé, not in the list, and 7, 8, 9, +10 are the children of Kiréka. Muonga is said by the others to be a +slave "born out of the house," that is, his mother was not of the +royal line; she is an ugly old woman, and greedy. I got rid of her +begging by giving her the beads she sought, and requesting her to cook +some food for me; she begged no more, afraid that I would press my +claim for provisions! + +_10th May, 1868._--I sent to Casembe for a guide to Luapula, he +replied that he had not seen me nor given me any food; I must come +to-morrow: but next day he was occupied in killing a man for +witchcraft and could not receive us, but said that he would on the +12th. He sent 15 fish (perch) from Mofwé, and a large basket of dried +cassava. I have taken lunars several times, measuring both sides of +the moon about 190 times, but a silly map-maker may alter the whole +for the most idiotic of reasons. + +_13th May, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib has been here some seven months, +and bought three tusks only; the hunting, by Casembe's people, of +elephants in the Mofwé has been unsuccessful. + +We did not get an audience from Casembe; the fault lay with +Kapika--Monteiro's escort--being afraid to annoy Casembe by putting +him in mind of it, but on the 15th Casembe sent for me, and told me +that as the people had all fled from Chikumbi's, he would therefore +send guides to take us to Kabaia, where there was still a population; +he wished me to wait a few days till he had looked out good men as +guides, and ground some flour for us to use in the journey. He +understood that I wished to go to Bangweolo; and it was all right to +do what my own chief had sent me for, and then come back to him. It +was only water--the same as Luapula, Mofwé, and Moero; nothing to be +seen. His people must not molest me again, but let me go where I +liked. This made me thank Him who has the hearts of all in His hand. + +Casembe also admitted that he had injured "Mpamari," but he would send +him some slaves and ivory in reparation: he is better than his people, +who are excessively litigious, and fond of milandos or causes--suits. +He asked if I had not the leopard's skin he gave me to sit on, as it +was bad to sit on the ground; I told him it had so many holes in it +people laughed at it and made me ashamed, but he did not take the +hint to give me another. He always talks good sense when he has not +swilled beer or pombe: all the Arabs are loud in his praises, but they +have a bad opinion of the Queen Moäri or Ngombé or Kifuta. The +Garaganza people at Katanga killed a near relative of Casembe and +herself, and when the event happened, Fungafunga, one of the Garaganza +or Banyamwezi being near the spot, fled and came to the Mofwé: he +continued his flight as soon as it was dark without saying anything to +anyone, until he got north to Kabiuré. The Queen and Casembe suspected +Mpamari of complicity with the Banyamwezi, and believed that +Fungafunga had communicated the news to him before fleeing further. A +tumult was made; Mpamari's eldest son was killed; and he was plundered +of all his copper, ivory, and slaves: the Queen loudly demanded his +execution, but Casembe restrained his people as well as he was able +and it is for this injury that he now professes to be sorry. + +The Queen only acted according to the principles of her people. +"Mpamari killed my son, kill his son--himself." It is difficult to get +at the truth, for Mohamad or Mpamari never tells the whole truth. He +went to fight Nsama with Muonga, and was wounded in the foot and +routed, and is now glad to get out of Lunda back to Ujiji. _(16th +May.)_ Complete twenty sets of lunars. + +_11th May, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib told Casembe that he could buy +nothing, and therefore was going away, Casembe replied that he had no +ivory and he might go: this was sensible; he sent far and near to find +some, but failed, and now confesses a truth which most chiefs hide +from unwillingness to appear poor before foreigners. + +_18th and 19th May, 1868._--It is hot here though winter; but cold by +night. Casembe has sent for fish for us. News came that one of Syde +bin Habib's men had come to Chikumbi on his way to Zanzibar. + +_20th May, 1868._--A thunder-shower from the east laid the dust and +cooled the ground: the last shower of this season, as a similar slight +shower was the finish up of the last on the 12th of May. _(21st May._) +This cannot be called a rainy month: April is the last month of the +wet season, and November the first. + +_22nd May, 1868._--Casembe is so slow with his fish, meal, and guides, +and his people so afraid to hurry him, that I think of going off as +soon as Mohamad Bogharib moves; he is going to Chikumbi's to buy +copper, and thence he will proceed to Uvira to exchange that for +ivory; but this is at present kept as a secret from his slaves. The +way seems thus to be opening for me to go to the large Lake west of +Uvira. + +I told Casembe that we were going; he said to me that if in coming +back I had found no travelling party, I must not risk going by Nsama's +road with so few people, but must go to his brother Moenempanda, and +he would send men to guide me to him, and thence he would send me +safely by his path along Lake Moero: this was all very good. + +_23rd May, 1868._--The Arabs made a sort of sacrifice of a goat which +was cooked all at once; they sent a good dish of it to me. They read +the Koran very industriously, and prayed for success or luck in +leaving, and seem sincerely religious, according to the light that is +in them. The use of incense and sacrifices brings back the old Jewish +times to mind. + +A number of people went off to the Kanengwa, a rivulet an hour south +of this, to build huts; there they are to take leave of Casembe, for +the main body goes off to-morrow, after we have seen the new moon. +They are very particular in selecting lucky days, and anything +unpleasant that may have happened in one month is supposed to be +avoided by choosing a different day for beginning an enterprise in the +next. Mohamad left Uvira on the third day of a new moon, and several +fires happened in his camp; he now considers a third day inauspicious. + +Casembe's dura or sorghum is ripe to-day: he has eaten mapemba or +dura, and all may thereafter do the same: this is just about the time +when it ripens and is reaped at Kolobeng, thus the difference in the +seasons is not great. + +_24th May, 1868._--Detained four days yet. Casembe's chief men refuse +to escort Mohamad Bogharib; they know him to be in debt, and fear that +he may be angry, but no dunning was intended. Casembe was making every +effort to get ivory to liquidate it, and at last got a couple of +tusks, which he joyfully gave to Mohamad: he has risen much in the +estimation of us all. + +_26th May, 1868._--Casembe's people killed five buffaloes by chasing +them into the mud and water of Mofwé, so he is seeing to the division +of the meat, and will take leave to-morrow. + +_28th May, 1868._--We went to Casembe; he was as gracious as usual. A +case of crim. con. was brought forward against an Arab's slave, and an +attempt was made to arrange the matter privately by offering three +cloths, beads, and another slave, but the complainant refused +everything. Casembe dismissed the case by saying to the complainant, +"You send your women to entrap the strangers in order to get a fine, +but you will get nothing:" this was highly applauded by the Arabs, and +the owner of the slave heaped dust on his head, as many had done +before for favours received. Casembe, still anxious to get ivory for +Mohamad, proposed another delay of four days to send for it; but all +are tired, and it is evident that it is not want of will that prevents +ivory being produced. + +His men returned without any, and he frankly confessed inability: he +is evidently very poor. + +_30th May, 1868._--We went to the Kanengwa rivulet at the south end +of Mofwé, which forms a little lagoon there fifty yards broad and +thigh deep; but this is not the important feeder of the Lagoon, which +is from two to three miles broad, and nearly four long: that has many +large flat sedgy islands in it, and its water is supplied by the +Mbérézé from south-east. + +_31st May, 1868._--Old Kapika sold his young and good-looking wife for +unfaithfulness, as he alleged. The sight of a lady in the chain-gang +shocked the ladies of Lunda, who ran to her, and having ascertained +from her own mouth what was sufficiently apparent, that she was a +slave now, clapped their hands on their mouths in the way that they +express wonder, surprise, and horror: the hand is placed so that the +fingers are on one cheek and the thumb on the other. + +The case of the chieftainess excited great sympathy among the people; +some brought her food, Kapika's daughters brought her pombe and +bananas; one man offered to redeem her with two, another with three +slaves, but Casembe, who is very strict in punishing infidelity, said, +"No, though ten slaves be offered she must go." He is probably afraid +of his own beautiful queen should the law be relaxed. Old Kapika came +and said to her, "You refused me, and I now refuse you." A young wife +of old Pérémbé was also sold as a punishment, but redeemed. + +There is a very large proportion of very old and very tall men in this +district. The slave-trader is a means of punishing the wives which +these old fogies ought never to have had. + +Casembe sent me about a hundredweight of the small fish Nsipo, which +seems to be the whitebait of our country; it is a little bitter when +cooked alone, but with ground-nuts is a tolerable relish: we can buy +flour with these at Chikumbi's. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[60] Chikichi nuts have been an article of trade and export for some +time from Zanzibar. The oil-palm grows wild in Pemba. + +[61] A chief named Moené Ungu, who admires the Arabs, sent his +children to Zanzibar to be instructed to read and write. + +[62] This bird is often brought to Zanzibar by the Ivory Caravans. + +[63] The Doctor's birthday. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + Prepares to examine Lake Bemba. Starts from Casembe's 11th June, + 1868. Dead leopard. Moenampanda's reception. The River Luongo. + Weird death-song of slaves. The forest grave. Lake Bembo changed + to Lake Bangweolo. Chikumbi's. The Imbozhwa people. Kombokombo's + stockade. Mazitu difficulties. Discovers Lake Bangweolo on 18th + July, 1868. The Lake Chief Mapuni. Description of the Lake. + Prepares to navigate it. Embarks for Lifungé Island. Immense + size of Lake. Reaches Mpabala Island. Strange dream. Fears of + canoe men. Return to shore. March back. Sends letters. Meets + Banyamweze. Reviews recent explorations at length. Disturbed + state of country. + + +_1st June, 1868._--Mohamad proposes to go to Katanga to buy copper, +and invites me to go too. I wish to see the Lufra Kiver, but I must +see Bemba or Bangweolo. Grant guidance from above! + +_2nd June, 1868._--In passing a field of cassava I picked the pods of +a plant called Malumbi, which climbs up the cassava bushes; at the +root it has a number of tubers with eyes, exactly like the potato. One +plant had sixteen of these tubers, each about 2 inches long and 1-1/2 +inch in diameter: another tuber was 5 inches long and 2 in diameter, +it would be difficult for anyone to distinguish them from English +potatoes. When boiled they are a little waxy, and, compared with our +potato, hard. There are colours inside, the outer part reddish, the +inner whiter. At first none of the party knew them, but afterwards +they were recognised as cultivated at Zanzibar by the name "Men," and +very good when mashed with fish: if in Zanzibar, they are probably +known in other tropical islands, + +_4th June, 1868._--From what I see of slaving, even in its best +phases, I would not be a slave-dealer for the world. + +_5th June, 1868._--The Queen Moäri passed us this morning, going to +build a hut at her plantation; she has a pleasant European +countenance, clean light-brown skin, and a merry laugh, and would be +admired anywhere. I stood among the cassava to see her pass; she +twirled her umbrella as she came near, borne by twelve men, and seemed +to take up the laugh which made her and her maids bolt at my +reception, showing that she laughs not with her mouth only, but with +her eyes and cheeks: she said, "Yambo" (how are you)? To which I +replied, "Tambo sana" (very well). One of her attendants said, "Give +her something of what you have at hand, or in the pockets." I said, "I +have nothing here," and asked her if she would come back near my hut. +She replied that she would, and I duly sent for two strings of red +beads, which I presented. Being lower than she, I could see that she +had a hole through the cartilage, near the point of her slightly +aquiline nose; and a space was filed between the two front teeth, so +as to leave a triangular hole. + +[Illustration: Filed Teeth of Queen Moäri.] + +After delay had grown vexatious, we march three hours on the 9th, and +reach the Katofia River, covered with aquatic trees and running into +the Mbérézé: five yards wide and knee deep. + +_10th June, 1868._--Detained again, for business is not finished with +the people of Casembe. The people cannot esteem the slave-trader, who +is used as a means of punishing those who have family differences, as +those of a wife with her husband, or a servant with his master. The +slaves are said to be generally criminals, and are sold in revenge or +as punishment. Kapika's wife had an ornament of the end of a shell +called the cone; it was borrowed and she came away with it in her +hair: the owner, without making any effort to recover it, seized one +of Kapika's daughters as a pledge that Kapika would exert himself to +get it back! + +[At last the tedious delay came to an end and we must now follow the +Doctor on his way south to discover Lake Bemba.] + +_11th June, 1868._--Crossed the Mbérézé, ten yards broad and thigh +deep, ascending a range of low hills of hardened sandstone, covered, +as the country generally is, with forest. Our course S.E. and S.S.E. +Then descended into a densely-wooded valley, having a rivulet four +yards wide and knee deep. Buffaloes and elephants very numerous. + +_12th June, 1868._--We crossed the Mbérézé again twice; then a very +deep narrow rivulet, and stopped at another in a mass of trees, where +we spend the night, and killing an ox remained next day to eat it. +When at Kanengwa a small party of men came past, shouting as if they +had done something of importance: on going to them, I found that two +of them carried a lion slung to a pole. It was a small maneless +variety, called "the lion of _Nyassi_," or long grass. It had killed a +man and they killed it. They had its mouth carefully strapped, and the +paws tied across its chest, and were taking it to Casembe. _Nyassi_ +means long grass, such as towers overhead, and is as thick in the +stalk as a goose-quill; and is erroneously applied to Nyassa. Other +lions--Thambwé, Karamo, Simba, are said to stand 5 feet high, and some +higher: this seemed about 3 feet high, but it was too dark to measure +it. + +_13th June, 1868._--The Arabs distinguish the Suaheli, or Arabs of +mixed African blood, by the absence of beard and whiskers: these are +usually small and stunted in the Suaheli. + +Birds, as the Drongo shrike, and a bird very like the grey linnet, +with a thick reddish bill, assemble in very large flocks now that it +is winter, and continue thus till November, or period of the rains. + +A very minute bee goes into the common small holes in wormeaten wood +to make a comb and lay its eggs, with a supply of honey. There are +seven or eight honey-bees of small size in this country. + +A sphex may be seen to make holes in the ground, placing stupified +insects in them with her eggs; another species watches when she goes +off to get more insects, and every now and then goes in too to lay her +eggs, I suppose without any labour: there does not appear to be any +enmity between them. We remained a day to buy food for the party, and +eat our ox. + +_14th June, 1868._--March over well-wooded highlands with dolomite +rocks cropping out and trees all covered with lichens, the watershed +then changed to the south. + +_15th June, 1868._--Yery cold in mornings now (43°). Found +Moenempanda, Casembe's brother, on the Luluputa, a stream twenty yards +wide and flowing west. The Moenempanda visited by the Portuguese was +grandfather to this one, and not at the same spot; it is useless to +put down the names of chiefs as indicating geographical positions, for +the name is often continued, but at a spot far distant from the +dwelling of the original possessor. A slave tried to break out of his +slave-stick, and actually broke half an inch of tough iron with his +fingers; the end stuck in the wood, or he would have freed himself. + +The chief gave me a public reception, which was like that of Casembe, +but better managed. He is young, and very handsome but for a defect in +his eyes, which makes him keep them half shut or squinting. He walked +off in the jaunty way all chiefs do in this country, to show the +weight of rings and beads on the legs, and many imitate this walk who +have none, exactly as our fathers imitated the big cravat of George +IV., who thereby hid defects in his neck: thousands carried their +cravats over the chin who had no defects to hide. Moenempanda carried +his back stiffly, and no wonder, he had about ten yards of a train +carried behind it. About 600 people were present. They kept rank, but +not step; were well armed; marimbas and square drums formed the bands, +and one musician added his voice: "I have been to Syde" (the Sultan); +"I have been to Meereput" (King of Portugal); "I have been to the +sea." At a private reception, where he was divested of his train, and +had only one umbrella instead of three, I gave him a cloth. The Arabs +thought highly of him; but his graciousness had been expended on them +in getting into debt; he now showed no inclination to get out of it, +but offered about a twentieth part of the value of the goods in +liquidation. He sent me two pots of beer, which I care not to drink +except when very thirsty on a march, and promised a man to guide me to +Chikumbi, and then refused. Casembe rose in the esteem of all as +Moenempanda sank, and his people were made to understand how shabbily +he had behaved. + +The Lulaputa is said to flow into the Luéna, and that into the Luongo: +there must be two Luénas. + +_22nd June, 1868._--March across a grassy plain southerly to the +Luongo, a deep river embowered in a dense forest of trees, all covered +with lichens--some flat, others long and thready, like old men's +beards, and waving in the wind, just as they do on the mangrove-swamp +trees on the coast. The Luongo here is fifty yards broad and three +fathoms deep; near its junction with the Luapula it is 100 yards; it +rises here to eight fathoms' depth. A bridge of forty yards led us +over to an island, and a branch of the river was ten yards beyond: the +bridge had been broken, some thought on purpose, but it was soon +mended with trees eighteen to twenty yards long. We went a little way +beyond, and then halted for a day at a rivulet flowing into the +Luongo, 200 yards off. + +_23rd June, 1868._--We waited for copper here, which was at first +refused as payment of debt. I saw now that the Luongo had steep clay +banks fifteen feet down, and many meadows, which must be swimming +during the rains. The Luéna is said to rise east of this. + +[In a private letter Livingstone shows that he had seldom been more +affected by the sufferings of slaves than at this time, and it would +perhaps be difficult to imagine any scene more calculated to excite +misery and distress of mind. + +The following incident deals with the firm belief in a future state, +which enters so largely into the minds of all Africans, and which for +very lack of guidance assumes all the distorted growths of +superstition. + +He must be of a thankless spirit who does not long to substitute the +great vision of future peace afforded by Christianity, in lieu of the +ghastly satisfaction which cheered these men, when he sees by the +light of this story the capacity that exists for realising a life +beyond the grave.] + +_24th June, 1868._--Six men slaves were singing as if they did not +feel the weight and degradation of the slave-sticks. I asked the cause +of their mirth, and was told that they rejoiced at the idea "of coming +back after death and haunting and killing those who had sold them." +Some of the words I had to inquire about; for instance, the meaning of +the words "to haunt and kill by spirit power;" then it was, "Oh, you +sent me off to Manga (sea-coast), but the yoke is off when I die, and +back I shall come to haunt and to kill you." Then all joined in the +chorus, which was the name of each vendor. It told not of fun, but of +the bitterness and tears of such as were oppressed, and on the side +of the oppressors there was a power: there be higher than they! + +Pérémbé was one of the culprits thus menaced. The slave-owner asked +Kapika's wife if she would return to kill Kapika. The others answered +to the names of the different men with laughter. Her heart was +evidently sore: for a lady to come so low down is to her grievous. She +has lost her jaunty air, and is, with her head shaved, ugly; but she +never forgets to address her captors with dignity, and they seem to +fear her. + +_25th June, 1868._--We went over flat forest with patches of brown +haematite cropping out; this is the usual iron ore, but I saw in a +village pieces of specular iron-ore which had been brought for +smelting. The Luongo flowed away somewhat to our right or west, and +the villagers had selected their site where only well-water could be +found: we went ten minutes towards the Luongo and got abundance. + +[Illustration: A Forest Grave.] + +The gardens had high hedges round to keep off wild beasts. We came to +a grave in the forest; it was a little rounded mound as if the +occupant sat in it in the usual native way: it was strewed over with +flour, and a number of the large blue beads put on it: a little path +showed that it had visitors. This is the sort of grave I should +prefer: to lie in the still, still forest, and no hand ever disturb my +bones. The graves at home always seemed to me to be miserable, +especially those in the cold damp clay, and without elbow room; but I +have nothing to do but wait till He who is over all decides where I +have to lay me down and die. Poor Mary lies on Shupanga brae, "and +beeks fornent the sun."[64] + +Came to the Chando River, which is the boundary between Casembe and +Chikumbi; but Casembe is over all. + +_27th June, 1868._--We crossed a flooded marsh with the water very +cold, and then the Chando itself twelve feet broad and knee deep, then +on to another strong brook Nsénga. + +_28th June, 1868._--After service we went on up hills to a stockade of +Banyamwezi, on the Kalomina River, and here we built our sheds; the +spot is called Kizinga, and is on the top of a sandstone range covered +as usual with forest. The Banyamwezi beat off the Mazitu with their +guns, while all the country people fled. The Banyamwezi are decidedly +uglier than the Balonda and Baitawa: they eat no fish, though they +come from the east side of Tanganyika, where fish are abundant and +cheap; but though uglier, they have more of the sense of honour with +traders than the aborigines. + +_29th June, 1868._--Observed the "smokes" to-day, the first of the +season:[65] they obscured the whole country. + +_1st July, 1868._--I went over to Chikumbi, the paramount chief of +this district, and gave him a cloth, begging a man to guide me to +Bangweolo. He said that I was welcome to his country; all were so: I +had better wait two days till he had selected a _good_ man as a guide, +and he would send some food for me to eat in the journey--he would not +say ten days, but only two, and his man would take me to the smaller +part of the Lake, and leave others to forward me to the greater or +Bangweolo. The smaller part is named Bemba, but that name is +confusing, because Bemba is the name of the country in which a portion +of the Lake lies. When asking for Lake Bemba, Kasongo's son said to +me, "Bemba is not a lake, but a country:" it is therefore better to +use the name BANGWEOLO, which is applied to the great mass of the +water, though I fear that our English folks will bogle at it, or call +it Bungyhollow! Some Arabs say Bambeolo as easier of pronunciation, +but Bangweolo is the correct word. Chikumbi's stockade is 1-1/2 hour +S.E. of our camp at Kizinga. + +_2nd July, 1868._--Writing to the Consul at Zanzibar to send supplies +of cloth to Ujiji--120 pieces, 40 Kiniki; 80 merikano 34 inches broad, +or samsam. Fine red beads--Talaka, 12 frasilas. I ask for soap, +coffee, sugar, candles, sardines, French preserved meats, a cheese in +tin, Nautical Almanac for 1869 and 1870, shoes (two or four pairs), +ruled paper, pencils, sealing-wax, ink, powder, flannel-serge, 12 +frasila beads, 6 of Talaka; added 3 F. pale red, 3 W. white. + +_3rd July, 1868._--The summary of the sources which I have resolved to +report as flowing into the central line of drainage formed by the +Chambezé, Luapula, and Lualaba are thirteen in all, and each is larger +than the Isis at Oxford, or Avon at Hamilton. Five flow into the +eastern line of drainage going through Tanganyika, and five more into +the western line of drainage or Lufira, twenty-three or more in all. +The Lualaba and the Lufira unite in the Lake of the chief Kinkonza. + +_5th July, 1868._--I borrowed some paper from Mohamad Bogharib to +write home by some Arabs going to the coast. I will announce my +discovery to Lord Clarendon; but I reserve the parts of the Lualaba +and Tanganyika for future confirmation. I have no doubts on the +subject, for I receive the reports of natives of intelligence at first +hand, and they have no motive for deceiving me. The best maps are +formed from the same sort of reports at third or fourth hand. Cold +N.E. winds prevail at present. + +_6th July, 1868._--Divided our salt that each may buy provisions for +himself: it is here of more value than beads. Chikumbi sent fine +flour, a load for two stout men carried in a large basket slung to a +pole, and a fine fat sheep, carried too because it was too fat to walk +the distance from his stockade. + +_7th, 8th, and 9th July, 1868._--After delaying several days to send +our guide, Chikumbi said that he feared the country people would say +that the Ingleza brought the Mazitu to them, and so blame will be +given to him. I set this down as "words of pombe," beery babble; but +after returning from Bangweolo, I saw that he must have been preparing +to attack a stockade of Banyamwezi in our path, and had he given us a +guide, that man would have been in danger in coming back: he therefore +preferred the safety of his man to keeping his promise to me. I got a +Banyamwezi guide, and left on the _10th July, 1868_, going over gently +rising sandstone hills, covered with forest and seeing many deserted +villages, the effects of the Mazitu foray: we saw also the Mazitu +sleeping-places and paths. They neglect the common paths of the +country as going from one village to another, and take straight +courses in the direction they wish to go, treading down the grass so +as to make a well-marked route, The Banyamwezi expelled them, cutting +off so many of them with their guns and arrows that the marauders +retired. The effect of this success on the minds of the Imboshwa, or +Imbozhwas, as Chikumbi's people are called, was not gratitude, but +envy at the new power sprung up among them of those who came +originally as traders in copper. + +Kombokombo's stockade, the village to which we went this day, was the +first object of assault, and when we returned, he told us that +Chikumbi had assaulted him on three sides, but was repulsed. The +Banyamwezi were, moreover, much too sharp as traders for the +Imboshwa, cheating them unmercifully, and lying like Greeks. +Kombokombo's stockade was on the Chibérasé River, which flows briskly, +eight yards broad and deep, through a mile of sponge. We came in the +midst of a general jollification, and were most bountifully supplied +with pombe and food. The Banyamwezi acknowledge allegiance to the +Sultan of Zanzibar, and all connected with him are respected. +Kombokombo pressed food and drink on me, and when I told him that I +had nothing to return for it, he said that he expected nothing: he was +a child of the Sultan, and ought to furnish all I needed. + +_11th July, 1868._--On leaving the Chibérasé we passed up over a long +line of hills with many villages and gardens, but mostly deserted +during the Mazitu raid. The people fled into the forests on the hills, +and were an easy prey to the marauders, who seem to have been +unmerciful. When we descended into the valley beyond we came to a +strong stockade, which had successfully resisted the onset of the +Mazitu; we then entered on flat forest, with here and there sponges +containing plenty of water; plains succeeded the hills, and continued +all the way to Bangweolo. We made a fence in the forest; and next day +_(12th July)_ reached the Rofuba, 50 yards broad and 4-1/2 feet deep, +full of aquatic plants, and flowing south-west into the Luongo: it had +about a mile and a half of sponge on each side of it. We encamped a +little south of the river. + +_13th July, 1868._--On resting at a deserted spot, the men of a +village in the vicinity came to us excited and apparently drunk, and +began to work themselves up still more by running about, poising their +spears at us, taking aim with their bows and arrows, and making as if +about to strike with their axes: they thought that we were marauders, +and some plants of ground-nuts strewn about gave colour to the idea. +There is usually one good soul in such rabbles. In this case a man +came to me, and, addressing his fellows, said, "This is only your +pombe. White man, do not stand among them, but go away," and then he +placed himself between me and a portion of the assailants, about +thirty of whom were making their warlike antics. While walking quietly +away with my good friend they ran in front and behind bushes and +trees, took aim with bow and arrow, but none shot: the younger men ran +away with our three goats. When we had gone a quarter of a mile my +friend told me to wait and he would bring the goats, which he did: I +could not feel the inebriates to be enemies; but in that state they +are the worst one can encounter, for they have no fear as they have +when sober. One snatched away a fowl from our guide, that too was +restored by our friend. I did not load my gun; for any accidental +discharge would have inflamed them to rashness. We got away without +shedding blood, and were thankful. The Mazitu raid has produced +lawlessness in the country: every one was taken as an enemy. + +_14th July, 1868._--We remained a day at the stockade of Moiéggéa. A +Banyamwezi or Garaganza man is settled here in Kabaia's district, and +on the strong rivulet called Mato. We felt secure only among the +strangers, and they were friendly with us. + +_15th July, 1868._--At the village on the south bank of the Mpanda we +were taken by the headman as Mazitu. He was evidently intoxicated, and +began to shut his gates with frantic gesticulations. I offered to go +away; but others of his people, equally intoxicated, insisted on my +remaining. I sat down a little, but seeing that the chief was still +alarmed, I said to his people, "The chief objects and I can't stay:" +they saw the reasonableness of this, but I could not get my cowardly +attendants to come on, though one said to me, "Come, I shall show you +the way: we must speak nice to them." This the wise boys think the +perfection of virtue, speaking nice means adopting a childish treble +tone of voice and words exactly similar to those of the little Scotch +girl who, passing through a meadow, was approached by a cow, probably +from curiosity. To appease this enemy, she said, "Oh, coo, coo, if you +no hurt me, I no hurt you." I told them to come on and leave them +quietly, but they remained babbling with them. The guide said that +there was no water in front: this I have been told too often ever to +believe, so I went on through the forest, and in an hour and a half +came to a sponge where, being joined by my attendants, we passed the +night. + +_16th July, 1868._--Crossing this sponge, and passing through flat +forest, we came to another named Méshwé, when there, as a contrast, +the young men volunteered to carry me across; but I had got off my +shoes, and was in the water, and they came along with me, showing the +shallower parts. We finished the day's march by crossing the Molongosi +spongy ooze, with 150 paces of deep water, flowing N.E. The water in +these oozes or sponges felt very cold, though only 60° in the +mornings, and 65° at midday. The Molongosi people invited us into the +village; but the forest, unless when infested with leopards and lions, +is always preferable, for one is free from vermin, and free from +curiosity gazers, who in the village think they have a right to stare, +but in the forest feel that they are not on an equality with +strangers. + +[It was on the 18th of July, 1868, we see that Dr. Livingstone +discovered one of the largest of the Central African Lakes. It is +extraordinary to notice the total absence of all pride and enthusiasm, +as--almost parenthetically--he records the fact.] + +_17th and 18th July, 1868._--Reached the chief village of Mapuni, near +the north bank of Bangweolo. On the 18th I walked a little way out +and saw the shores of the Lake for the first time, thankful that I had +come safely hither. + +I told the chief that my goods were all expended, and gave him a +fathom of calico as all I could spare: I told him that as soon as I +had seen and measured the Lake I would return north; he replied, that +seeing our goods were done he could say nothing, he would give me +guides, and what else he should do was known to himself. He gave a +public reception at once. I asked if he had ever seen anyone like me, +and he said, "Never." A Babisa traveller asked me why I had come so +far; I said I wished to make the country and people better known to +the rest of the world, that we were all children of one Father, and I +was anxious that we should know each other better, and that friendly +visits should be made in safety. I told him what the Queen had done to +encourage the growth of cotton on the Zambezi, and how we had been +thwarted by slave-traders and their abettors: they were pleased with +this. When asked I showed them my note-book, watch, compass, +burning-glass, and was loudly drummed home. + +I showed them the Bible, and told them a little of its contents. I +shall require a few days more at Bangweolo than I at first intended. +The moon being in its last stage of waning I cannot observe till it is +of some size. + +_19th July, 1868._--Went down to Masantu's village, which is on the +shore of the Lake, and by a spring called Chipoka, which comes out of +a mass of disintegrated granite. It is seldom that we see a spring +welling out beneath a rock: they are covered by oozing sponges, if +indeed they exist. Here we had as a spectator a man walking on stilts +tied to his ankles and knees. There are a great many Babisa among the +people. The women have their hair ornamented with strings of cowries, +and well oiled with the oil and fat from the seeds of the Mosikisi +trees. I sent the chief a fathom of calico, and got an audience at +once. Masantu is an oldish man; had never prayed to the Great Father +of all, though he said the footsteps of "Mungu," or Mulungu, could be +seen on a part of Lifungé Island: a large footstep may also be seen on +the rock at the Chambezé, about fifteen inches long. He informed us +that the Lake is much the largest at the part called Bangweolo. + +The country around the Lake is all flat, and very much denuded of +trees, except the Motsikiri or Mosikisi, which has fine dark, dense +foliage, and is spared for its shade and the fatty oil yielded by its +seeds: we saw the people boiling large pots full of the dark brown +fat, which they use to lubricate their hair. The islands, four in +number, are all flat, but well peopled. The men have many canoes, and +are all expert fishermen; they are called Mboghwa, but are marked on +the forehead and chin as Babisa, and file the teeth to points. They +have many children, as fishermen usually have. + +_21st July, 1868._--Canoe-men are usually extortionate, because one +cannot do without them. Mapuni claims authority over them, and sent to +demand another fathom that he may give orders to them to go with us: I +gave a hoe and a string of beads instead, but he insisted on the +cloth, and kept the hoe too, as I could not afford the time to haggle. + + Chipoka spring water at 9 A.M. 75° } + Lake water at same time 71° } air 72°. + + Chipoka spring at 4 P.M. 74° 5' } + Lake water at same time 75° } air 71° 5'; wet bulb 70°. + +No hot fountains or earthquakes are known in this region. The bottom +of the Lake consists of fine white sand, and a broad belt of strong +rushes, say 100 yards wide, shows shallow water. In the afternoons +quite a crowd of canoes anchor at its outer edge to angle; the hooks +are like ours, but without barbs. The fish are perch chiefly, but +others similar to those that appear in the other Lakes are found, and +two which attain the large size of 4 feet by 1-1/2 in. thickness: one +is called Sampa. + +_22nd July, 1868._--A very high wind came with the new moon, and +prevented our going, and also the fishermen from following their +calling. Mapuni thought that we meant to make, an escape from him to +the Babisa on the south, because we were taking our goats, I therefore +left them and two attendants at Masantu's village to assure him. + +_23rd July, 1868._--Wind still too strong to go. Took lunars. + +_24th July, 1868._--Wind still strong. + +_25th July, 1868._--Strong S.E. wind still blowing, but having paid +the canoe-men amply for four days with beads, and given Masantu a hoe +and beads too, we embarked at 11.40 A.M. in a fine canoe, 45 feet +long, 4 feet deep, and 4 feet broad. The waves were high, but the +canoe was very dry and five stout men propelled her quickly towards an +opening in Lifungé Island, on our S.E. Here we stopped to wood, and I +went away to look at the island, which had the marks of hippopotami +and a species of jackal on it: it had hard wiry grass, some flowers, +and a species of Gapparidaceous tree. The trees showed well the +direction of the prevailing wind to be south-east, for the branches on +that side were stunted or killed, while those on the north-west ran +out straight, and made the trees appear, as sailors say, lopsided: the +trunks too were bent that way. + +The canoe-men now said that they would start, then that they would +sleep here, because we could not reach the Island Mpabala before dark, +and would not get a hut. I said that it would be sleeping out of doors +only in either case, so they went. We could see the island called Kisi +on our east, apparently a double island, about 15 miles off, and the +tops of the trees barely visible on Mpabala on our south-east. It was +all sea horizon on our south and north, between Lifungé and Mpabala, +and between Lifungé and Kisi. We could not go to Kisi, because, as the +canoe-men told us, they had stolen their canoe thence. Though we +decided to go, we remained awhile to let the sea go down. A +hammerhead's nest on one of the trees was fully four feet high. Coarse +rushes show the shoals near the islands. Only one shell was seen on +the shores. The canoe ships much less water in this surf than our boat +did in that of Nyassa. The water is of a deep sea-green colour, +probably from the reflection of the fine white sand of the bottom; we +saw no part having the deep dark blue of Nyassa, and conjecture that +the depth is not great; but I had to leave our line when Amoda +absconded. On Kisi we observed a dark square mass, which at first I +took to be a low hill: it turned out to be a mass of trees (probably +the place of sepulture, for the graveyards are always untouched), and +shows what a dense forest this land would become were it not for the +influence of men. + +We reached Mpabala after dark. It was bitterly cold, from the amount +of moisture in the air. I asked a man who came to see what the arrival +was, for a hut; he said, "Do strangers require huts, or ask for them +at night?" he then led us to the public place of meeting, called +Nsaka, which is a large shed, with planks around and open spaces +between, instead of walls; here we cooked a little porridge, and ate +it, then I lay down on one side, with the canoe-men and my attendants +at the fire in the middle, and was soon asleep, and dreamed that I had +apartments in Mivart's Hotel. This made me feel much amused next day, +for I never dream unless I am ill, or going to be ill; and of all +places in the world, I never thought of Mivart's Hotel in my waking +moments; a freak of the fancy surely, for I was not at all +discontented with my fare, or apartment, I was only afraid of getting +a stock of vermin from my associates. + +_26th July, 1868._--I have to stand the stare of a crowd of people at +every new place for hours: all usually talk as quickly as their glib +tongues can; these certainly do not belong to the tribes who are +supposed to eke out their language by signs! A few indulge their +curiosity in sight-seeing, but go on steadily weaving nets, or by +beating bark-cloth, or in spinning cotton, others smoke their big +tobacco pipes, or nurse a baby, or enjoy the heat of the bright +morning sun. I walked across the north end of the island, and found it +to be about one mile broad, I also took bearings of Chirubi Island +from the eastern point of Mpabala, and found from the south-east point +of Chirubi that there are 183° of sea horizon from it to the point of +departure of the Luapula. Chirubi is the largest of the islands, and +contains a large population, possessing many sheep and goats. At the +highest part of Mpabala we could see the tops of the trees on Kasango, +a small uninhabited islet, about thirty miles distant: the tops of the +trees were evidently lifted up by the mirage, for near the shore and +at other parts they were invisible, even with a good glass. This +uninhabited islet would have been our second stage had we been allowed +to cross the Lake, as it is of the people themselves; it is as far +beyond it to the mainland, called Manda, as from Masantu's to Mpabala. + +_27th July, 1868._--Took lunars and stars for latitude. + +The canoe-men now got into a flurry, because they were told here that +the Kisi men had got an inkling that their canoe was here, and were +coming to take it; they said to me that they would come back for me, +but I could not trust thieves to be so honest. I thought of seizing +their paddles, and appealing to the headmen of the island; but aware +from past experience how easy it is for acknowledged thieves like them +to get up a tale to secure the cheap sympathy of the soft-headed, or +tender-hearted, I resolved to bear with meekness, though groaning +inwardly, the loss of two of the four days for which I had paid them. +I had only my coverlet to hire another canoe, and it was now very +cold; the few beads left would all be required to buy food in the way +back, I might have got food by shooting buffaloes, but that on foot +and through grass, with stalks as thick as a goose quill, is +dreadfully hard work; I had thus to return to Masantu's, and trust to +the distances as deduced from the time taken by the natives in their +canoes for the size of the Lake. + +We had come to Mpabala at the rate of six knots an hour, and returned +in the same time with six stout paddlers. The latitude was 12' in a +south-east course, which may give 24' as the actual distance. To the +sleeping-place, the Islet Kasango, there was at least 28' more, and +from thence to the mainland "Manda," other 28'. This 24 + 28 + 28 = +80' as the breadth from Masantu village, looking south-east. It lies +in 11° 0' S. If we add on the half distance to this we have 11° 40' as +the latitude of Manda. The mainland to the south of Mpabala is called +Kabendé. The land's end running south of Masantu's village is the +entrance to the Luapula: the clearest eye cannot see across it there. +I saw clouds as if of grass burning, but they were probably "Kungu," +an edible insect, whose masses have exactly the same appearance as +they float above and on the water. From the time the canoes take to go +to Kabendé I believe the southern shore to be a little into 12° of +south latitude: the length, as inferred from canoes taking ten days to +go from Mpabala to the Chambezé, I take to be 150 miles, probably +more. No one gave a shorter time than that. The Luapula is an arm of +the Lake for some twenty miles, and beyond that is never narrower than +from 180 to 200 yards, generally much broader, and may be compared +with the Thames at London Bridge: I think that I am considerably +within the mark in setting down Bangweolo as 150 miles long by 80 +broad. + +When told that it contained four large islands, I imagined that these +would considerably diminish the watery acreage of the whole, as is +said to be the case with five islands in Ukerewé; but even the largest +island, Chirubi, does not in the least dwarf the enormous mass of the +water of Bangweolo. A range of mountains, named Lokinga, extends from +the south-east to the south-west: some small burns come down from +them, but no river; this range joins the Koné, or Mokoné range, west +of Katanga, from which on one side rises the Lufira, and on the other +the Liambai, or Zambesi. The river of Manda, called Matanga, is only a +departing and re-entering branch of the Lake, also the Luma and Loéla +rivers--some thirty yards broad--have each to be examined as springs +on the south of the Lake. + +_July 29th, 1868._--Not a single case of Derbyshire neck, or of +Elephantiasis, was observed anywhere near the Lake, consequently the +report we had of its extreme unhealthiness was erroneous: no muddy +banks did we see, but in the way to it we had to cross so many +sponges, or oozes, that the word _matopé_, mud, was quite applicable; +and I suspect, if we had come earlier, that we should have experienced +great difficulty in getting to the Lake at all. + +_30th July, 1868._--We commenced our march back, being eager to get to +Chikumbi's in case Mohamad should go thence to Katanga. We touched at +Mapuni's, and then went on to the Molongosi. Clouds now began to cover +the sky to the Mpanda, which has fifteen yards of flood, though the +stream itself is only five yards wide, then on to the Mato and +Moiéggé's stockade, where we heard of Chikumbi's attack on +Kombokombo's. Moiéggé had taken the hint, and was finishing a second +line of defence around his village: we reached him on the 1st August, +1868, and stopped for Sunday the 2nd: on the 3rd back to the Rofubu, +where I was fortunate enough to hire a canoe to take me over. + +In examining a tsetse fly very carefully I see that it has a +receptacle at the root of the piercer, which is of a black or dark-red +colour; and when it is squeezed, a clear fluid is pressed out at its +point: the other two parts of the proboscis are its shield, and have +no bulb at the base. The bulb was pronounced at the Royal Society to +be only muscle, but it is curious that muscle should be furnished +where none is needed, and withheld in the movable parts of the shield +where it is decidedly needed. + +_5th August, 1868._--Reach Kombokombo, who is very liberal, and +pressed us to stay a day with him as well as with others; we complied, +and found that Mohamad had gone nowhere. + +_7th August, 1868._--We found a party starting from Kizinga for the +coast, having our letters with them; it will take five months to reach +the sea. The disturbed state of the country prevented parties of +traders proceeding in various directions, and one that set off on the +same day with us was obliged to return. Mohamad has resolved to go to +Manyuema as soon as parties of his men now out return: this is all in +my favour; it is in the way I want to go to see the Lualaba and Lufira +to Chowambé. The way seems opening out before me, and I am thankful. I +resolved to go north by way of Casembe, and guides were ready to +start, so was I; but rumours of war where we were going induced me to +halt to find out the truth: the guides (Banyamwezi) were going to +divine, by means of a cock, to see if it would be lucky to go with me +at present. The rumours of danger became so circumstantial that our +fence was needed: a well was dug inside, and the Banyamwezi were +employed to smelt copper as for the market of Manyuema, and balls for +war. Syde bin Omar soon came over the Luapula from Iramba, and the +state of confusion induced the traders to agree to unite their forces +and make a safe retreat out of the country. They objected very +strongly to my going away down the right bank of the Luapula with my +small party, though it was in sight, so I resolved to remain till all +went. + +_13th August, 1868._--The Banyamwezi use a hammer shaped like a cone, +without a handle. They have both kinds of bellows, one of goatskin the +other of wood, with a skin over the mouth of a drum, and a handle tied +to the middle of it; with these they smelt pieces of the large bars of +copper into a pot, filled nearly full of wood ashes. The fire is +surrounded by masses of anthills, and in these there are hollows made +to receive the melted metal: the metal is poured while the pot is held +with the hands, protected by wet rags. + +_15th August, 1868._--Bin Omar, a Suaheli, came from Muaboso on +Chambezé in six days, crossing in that space twenty-two burns or +oozes, from knee to waist deep. + +Very high and cold winds prevail at present. It was proposed to punish +Chikumbi when Syde bin Omar came, as he is in debt and refuses +payment; but I go off to Casembe. + +I learn that there is another hot fountain in the Baloba country, +called Fungwé; this, with Kapira and Vana, makes three hot fountains +in this region. + +Some people were killed in my path to Casembe, so this was an +additional argument against my going that way. + +Some Banyamwezi report a tribe--the Bonyolo--that extract the upper +front teeth, like Batoka; they are near Loanda, and Lake Chipokola is +there, probably the same as Kinkonza. Feeling my way. All the trees +are now pushing out fresh young leaves of different colours: winds +S.E. Clouds of upper stratum N.W. + +_29th August, 1868._--Kaskas began to-day hot and sultry. This will +continue till rains fall. Rumours of wars perpetual and near; and one +circumstantial account of an attack made by the Bausé. That again +contradicted. _(31st August, 1868.)_ Rain began here this evening, +quite remarkable and exceptional, as it precedes the rains generally +off the watershed by two months at least: it was a thunder shower, +and it and another on the evening of the second were quite partial. + + * * * * * + +[As we shall see, he takes advantage of his late experience to work +out an elaborate treatise on the climate of this region, which is +exceedingly important, bearing, as it does, upon the question of the +periodical floods on the rivers which drain the enormous cistern-lakes +of Central Africa.] + + * * * * * + +The notion of a rainy zone, in which the clouds deposit their +treasures in perpetual showers, has received no confirmation from my +observations. In 1866-7, the rainfall was 42 inches. In 1867-8, it +amounted to 53 inches: this is nearly the same as falls in the same +latitudes on the West Coast. In both years the rains ceased entirely +in May, and with the exception of two partial thunder showers on the +middle of the watershed, no rain fell till the middle and end of +October, and then, even in November, it was partial, and limited to +small patches of country; but scarcely a day passed between October +and May without a good deal of thunder. When the thunder began to roll +or rumble, that was taken by the natives as an indication of the near +cessation of the rains. The middle of the watershed is the most humid +part: one sees the great humidity of its climate at once in the trees, +old and young, being thickly covered with lichens; some flat, on the +trunks and branches; others long and thready, like the beards of old +men waving in the wind. Large orchids on the trees in company with the +profusion of lichens are seen nowhere else, except in the mangrove +swamps of the sea-coast. + +I cannot account for the great humidity of the watershed as compared +with the rest of the country, but by the prevailing winds and the +rains being from the south-east, and thus from the Indian Ocean: with +this wind generally on the surface one can observe an upper strong +wind from the north-west, that is, from the low humid West Coast and +Atlantic Ocean. The double strata of winds can easily be observed when +there are two sheets of clouds, or when burning grass over scores of +square miles sends up smoke sufficiently high to be caught by the +upper or north-west wind. These winds probably meet during the heavy +rains: now in August they overlap each other. The probability arises +from all continued rains within the tropics coming in the opposite +direction from the prevailing wind of the year. Partial rains are +usually from the south-east. + +The direction of the prevailing wind of this region is well marked on +the islands in Lake Bangweolo: the trunks are bent away from the +south-east, and the branches on that side are stunted or killed; while +those on the north-west run out straight and make the trees appear +lopsided. The same bend away from the south-east is seen on all +exposed situations, as in the trees covering the brow of a hill. At +Kizinga, which is higher than the Lake, the trees are covered with +lichens, chiefly on the south-east sides, and on the upper surfaces of +branches, running away horizontally to or from the north-west. Plants +and trees, which elsewhere in Africa grow only on the banks of streams +and other damp localities, are seen flourishing all over the country: +the very rocks are covered with lichens, and their crevices with +ferns. + +But that which demonstrates the humidity of the climate most +strikingly is the number of earthen sponges or oozes met with. In +going to Bangweolo from Kizinga, I crossed twenty-nine of these +reservoirs in thirty miles of latitude, on a south-east course: this +may give about one sponge for every two miles. The word "Bog" conveys +much of the idea of these earthen sponges; but it is inseparably +connected in our minds with peat, and these contain not a particle of +peat, they consist of black porous earth, covered with a hard wiry +grass, and a few other damp-loving plants. In many places the sponges +hold large quantities of the oxide of iron, from the big patches of +brown haematite that crop out everywhere, and streams of this oxide, +as thick as treacle, are seen moving slowly along in the sponge-like +small red glaciers. When one treads on the black earth of the sponge, +though little or no water appears on the surface, it is frequently +squirted up the limbs, and gives the idea of a sponge. In the paths +that cross them, the earth readily becomes soft mud, but sinks rapidly +to the bottom again, as if of great specific gravity: the water in +them is always circulating and oozing. The places where the sponges +are met with are slightly depressed valleys without trees or bushes, +in a forest country where the grass being only a foot or fifteen +inches high, and thickly planted, often looks like a beautiful glade +in a gentleman's park in England. They are from a quarter of a mile to +a mile broad, and from two to ten or more miles long. The water of the +heavy rains soaks into the level forest lands: one never sees runnels +leading it off, unless occasionally a footpath is turned to that use. +The water, descending about eight feet, comes to a stratum of yellow +sand, beneath which there is another stratum of fine white sand, which +at its bottom cakes, so as to hold the water from sinking further. + +It is exactly the same as we found in the Kalahari Desert, in digging +sucking places for water for our oxen. The water, both here and there, +is guided by the fine sand stratum into the nearest valley, and here +it oozes forth on all sides through the thick mantle of black porous +earth, which forms the sponge. There, in the desert, it appears to +damp the surface sands in certain valleys, and the Bushmen, by a +peculiar process, suck out a supply. When we had dug down to the caked +sand there years ago, the people begged us not to dig further, as the +water would all run away; and we desisted, because we saw that the +fluid poured in from the fine sand all round the well, but none came +from the bottom or cake. Two stupid Englishmen afterwards broke +through the cake in spite of the entreaties of the natives, and the +well and the whole valley dried up hopelessly. Here the water, oozing +forth from the surface of the sponge mantle, collects in the centre of +the slightly depressed valley which it occupies, and near the head of +the depression forms a sluggish stream; but further down, as it meets +with more slope, it works out for itself a deeper channel, with +perpendicular banks, with, say, a hundred or more yards of sponge on +each side, constantly oozing forth fresh supplies to augment its size. +When it reaches rocky ground it is a perennial burn, with many aquatic +plants growing in its bottom. One peculiarity would strike anyone: the +water never becomes discoloured or muddy. I have seen only one stream +muddied in flood, the Choma, flowing through an alluvial plain in +Lopéré. Another peculiarity is very remarkable; it is, that after the +rains have entirely ceased, these burns have their largest flow, and +cause inundations. It looks as if towards the end of the rainy season +the sponges were lifted up by the water off their beds, and the pores +and holes, being enlarged, are all employed to give off fluid. The +waters of inundation run away. When the sponges are lifted up by +superabundance of water, all the pores therein are opened: as the +earthen mantle subsides again, the pores act like natural valves, and +are partially closed, and by the weight of earth above them, the water +is thus prevented from running away altogether; time also being +required to wet all the sand through which the rains soak, the great +supply may only find its way to the sponge a month or so after the +great rains have fallen. + +I travelled in Lunda, when the sponges were all supersaturated. The +grassy sward was so lifted up that it was separated into patches or +tufts, and if the foot missed the row of tufts of this wiry grass +which formed the native path, down one plumped up to the thigh in +slush. At that time we could cross the sponge only by the native +paths, and the central burn only where they had placed bridges: +elsewhere they were impassable, as they poured off the waters of +inundation: our oxen were generally bogged--all four legs went down up +to the body at once. When they saw the clear sandy bottom of the +central burn they readily went in, but usually plunged right over +head, leaving their tail up in the air to show the nervous shock they +had sustained. + +These sponges are a serious matter in travelling. I crossed the +twenty-nine already mentioned at the end of the fourth month of the +dry season, and the central burns seemed then to have suffered no +diminution: they were then from calf to waist deep, and required from +fifteen to forty minutes in crossing; they had many deep holes in the +paths, and when one plumps therein every muscle in the frame receives +a painful jerk. When past the stream, and apparently on partially dry +ground, one may jog in a foot or more, and receive a squirt of black +mud up the thighs: it is only when you reach the trees and are off the +sour land that you feel secure from mud and leeches. As one has to +strip the lower part of the person in order to ford them, I found that +often four were as many as we could cross in a day. Looking up these +sponges a bird's-eye view would closely resemble the lichen-like +vegetation of frost on window panes; or that vegetation in +Canada-balsam which mad philosophical instrument makers _will_ put +between the lenses of the object-glasses of our telescopes. The flat, +or nearly flat, tops of the subtending and transverse ridges of this +central country give rise to a great many: I crossed twenty-nine, a +few of the feeders of Bangweolo, in thirty miles of latitude in one +direction. Burns are literally innumerable: rising on the ridges, or +as I formerly termed them mounds, they are undoubtedly the primary or +ultimate sources of the Zambezi, Congo, and Nile: by their union are +formed streams of from thirty to eighty or 100 yards broad, and always +deep enough to require either canoes or bridges. These I propose to +call the secondary sources, and as in the case of the Nile they are +drawn off by three lines of drainage, they become the head waters (the +_caput_ Nili) of the river of Egypt. + +Thanks to that all-embracing Providence, which has watched over and +enabled me to discover what I have done. There is still much to do, +and if health and protection be granted I shall make a complete thing +of it. + +[Then he adds in a note a little further on:--] + +But few of the sponges on the watershed ever dry; elsewhere many do; +the cracks in their surface are from 15 to 18 inches deep, with lips +from 2 to 3 inches apart. Crabs and other animals in clearing out +their runs reveal what I verified by actually digging wells at Kizinga +and in Kabuiré, and also observed in the ditches 15 feet deep dug by +the natives round many of their stockades, that the sponge rests on a +stratum of fine white washed sand. These cracks afford a good idea of +the effect of the rains: the partial thunder-showers of October, +November, December, and even January, produce no effect on them; it is +only when the sun begins to return from his greatest southern +declination that the cracks close their large lips. The whole sponge +is borne up, and covers an enormous mass of water, oozing forth in +March and April forming the inundations. These floods in the Congo, +Zambesi, and Nile require different times to reach the sea. The bulk +of the Zambesi is further augmented by the greater rains finding many +pools in the beds of its feeders filled in February, as soon as the +sun comes north. + +_Mem._--In apparent contradiction of the foregoing, so far as touches +the sources of the Zambesi, Syde bin Habib informed me a few days ago +that he visited the sources of the Liambai and of the Lufira. Each +comes out of a fountain; the Lufira one is called Changozi, and is +small, and in a wood of large trees S.W. of Katanga; the fountain of +the Liambai is so large that one cannot call to a person on the other +side, and he appears also very small there--the two fountains are just +five hours distant from each other. He is well acquainted with the +Liambai (Leeambye), where I first met him. Lunga, another river, comes +out of nearly the same spot which goes into the Leuńge, Kafué (?). +Lufira is less than Kalongosi up there; that is less than 80 or 200 +yards, and it has deep waterfalls in it. The Koné range comes down +north, nearly to Mpméto's. Mkana is the chief of the stone houses in +the Baloba, and he may be reached by three days of hard travelling +from Mpwéto's; Lufira is then one long day west. As Muabo refuses to +show me his "mita," "miengelo," or "mpamankanana" as they are called, +I must try and get to those of the Baloba of Mkana. + +Senegal swallows pair in the beginning of December. + + +_Note_.--Inundation. + +The inundation I have explained in the note on the climate as owing to +the sponges being supersaturated in the greater rains, when the sun +returns from his greatest southern declination, the pores are then all +enlarged, and the water of inundation flows in great volume even after +the rains have entirely ceased. Something has probably to be learned +from the rainfall at or beyond the equator, as the sun pursues his way +north beyond my beat, but the process I have named accounts +undoubtedly for the inundations of the Congo and Zambesi. The most +acute of the ancients ascribed the inundation with Strabo to summer +rains in the south; others to snows melting on the Mountains of the +Moon; others to the northern wind--the Etesian breezes blowing +directly against the mouth of the river and its current: others, with +less reason, ascribed the inundation to its having its source in the +ocean: Herodotus and Pliny to evaporation following the course of the +sun. + +_1st September, 1868._--Two men come from Casembe--I am reported +killed. The miningo-tree distils water, which falls in large drops. +The Luapula seen when the smoke clears off. Fifty of Syde bin Omar's +people died of small-pox in Usafa. _Mem._ Vaccine virus. We leave on +the 25th, east bank of Moisi River, and cross the Luongo on the 28th, +the Lofubu on the 1st October, and the Kalongosi on the 7th. + +[Dr. Livingstone seems to have been unable to find opportunity to make +daily entries at this period. All was turmoil and panic, and his life +appears to have been in imminent danger. Briefly we see that on his +way back from the Lake he found that his Arab associates of the last +few months had taken up Casembe's cause against the devastating hordes +of Mazitu, who had swept down on these parts, and had repulsed them. +But now a fresh complication arose! Casembe and Chikumbi became +alarmed lest the Arabs, feeling their own power, should turn upon them +and possess the whole country, so they joined forces and stormed +Kombokombo, one of the leading Arabs, and with what success we shall +see. It is a fair specimen of the unaccountable complications which +dog the steps of the traveller, where war is afoot, and render life a +misery. He writes as follows on the 5th October:--] + +I was detained in the Imbozhwa country much longer than I relished. +The inroad of the Mazitu, of which Casembe had just heard when we +reached the Mofwé, was the first cause of delay: he had at once sent +off men to verify the report, and requested me to remain till his +messengers should return. This foray produced a state of lawlessness +in the country, which was the main reason of our further detention. + +The Imbozhwa fled before the marauders, and the Banyamwezi or +Garaganza, who had come in numbers to trade in copper, took on +themselves the duty of expelling the invaders, and this, by means of +their muskets, they did effectually, then, building stockades they +excited the jealousy of the Imbozhwa lords of the soil who, instead of +feeling grateful, hated the new power thus sprung up among them! They +had suffered severely from the sharp dealing of the strangers already, +and Chikumbi made a determined assault on the stockade of Kombokombo +in vain. + +Confusion prevailed all over the country. Some Banyamwezi assumed the +offensive against the Baüsi, who resemble the Imbozhwa, but are +further south, and captured and sold some prisoners: it was in this +state of things that, as already mentioned, I was surrounded by a +party of furious Imbozhwa. A crowd stood within fifteen or twenty +yards with spears poised and arrows set in the bowstrings, and some +took aim at me: they took us for plunderers, and some plants of +ground-nuts thrown about gave colour to their idea. One good soul +helped us away--a blessing be on him and his. Another chief man took +us for Mazitu! In this state of confusion Cazembe heard that my party +had been cut off: he called in Moenempanda and took the field in +person, in order to punish the Banyamwezi, against whom he has an old +grudge for killing a near relative of his family, selling Baüsi, and +setting themselves up as a power in his country. + +The two Arab traders now in the country felt that they must unite +their forces, and thereby effect a safe retreat. Chikumbi had kept +twenty-eight tusks for Syde bin Omar safely; but the coming of Casembe +might have put it out of his power to deliver up his trust in safety, +for an army here is often quite lawless: each man takes to himself +what he can. When united we marched from Kizinga on 23rd September +together, built fences every night to protect ourselves and about 400 +Banyamwezi, who took the opportunity to get safely away. Kombokombo +came away from his stockade, and also part of the way, but cut away by +night across country to join the parties of his countrymen who still +love to trade in Katanga copper. We were not molested, but came nearly +north to the Kalongosi. Syde parted from us, and went away east to +Mozamba, and thence to the coast. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[64] The allusion is to Mrs. Livingstone's grave. + +[65] At one season the long grass which covers the face of the country +catches fire. For some three months the air is consequently filled +with smoke.--ED. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + Cataracts of the Kalongosi. Passage of the river disputed. + Leeches and method of detaching them. Syde bin Habib's slaves + escape. Enormous collection of tusks. III. Theory of the Nile + sources. Tribute to Miss Tinné. Notes on climate. Separation of + Lake Nyassa from the Nile system. Observations on Victoria + Nyanza. Slaves dying. Repentant deserters. Mohamad Bogharib. + Enraged Imbozhwa. An attack. Narrow escape. Renewed attack. A + parley. Help arrives. Bin Juma. March from the Imbozhwa country. + Slaves escape. Burial of Syde bin Habib's brother. Singular + custom. An elephant killed. Native game-laws. Rumour of Baker's + Expedition. Christmas dinners. + + +_11th October, 1868._--From Kizinga north the country is all covered +with forest, and thrown up into ridges of hardened sandstone, capped +occasionally with fine-grained clay schist. Trees often appear of +large size and of a species closely resembling the gum-copal tree; on +the heights masukos and rhododendrons are found, and when exposed they +are bent away from the south-east. Animals, as buffaloes and +elephants, are plentiful, but wild. Rivulets numerous, and running now +as briskly as brooks do after much rain in England. All on the +south-western side of Kalongosi are subjects of Casembe, that is +Balunda, or Imbozhwa. + +It was gratifying to see the Banyamwezi carrying their sick in cots +slung between two men: in the course of time they tired of this, and +one man, who was carried several days, remained with Chuma. We crossed +the Luongo far above where we first became acquainted with it, and +near its source in Urungu or Usungu Hills, then the Lobubu, a goodly +stream thirty yards broad and rapid with fine falls above our ford, +which goes into Kalongosi. + +_6th October, 1868._--Cross the Papusi, and a mile beyond the Luéna of +forty yards and knee deep; here we were met by about 400 of Kabanda's +men, as if they were come to dispute our passage at the ford: I went +over; all were civil; but had we shown any weakness they would no +doubt have taken advantage of it. + +_7th October, 1868._--We came to the Kalongosi, flowing over five +cataracts made by five islets in a place called Kabwérumé. Near the +Mebamba a goodly rivulet joins it. + +_12th October, 1868._--We came to the Kalongosi at the ford named +Mosolo: by pacing I found it to be 240 yards broad, and thigh deep at +the end of the dry season, it ran so strongly that it was with +difficulty I could keep my feet. Here 500 at least of Nsama's people +stood on the opposite shore to know what we wanted. Two fathoms of +calico were sent over, and then I and thirty guns went over to protect +the people in the ford: as we approached they retired. I went to them, +and told them that I had been to Nsama's, and he gave me a goat and +food, and we were good friends: some had seen me there, and they now +crowded to look till the Arabs thought it unsafe for me to be among +them: if I had come with bared skin they would have fled. All became +friendly: an elephant was killed, and we remained two days buying +food. We passed down between the ranges of hills on the east of Moero, +the path we followed when we first visited Casembe. + +_20th and 21st October, 1868._--From the Luao I went over to the chief +village of Muabo, and begged him to show me the excavations in his +country: he declined, by saying that I came from a crowd of people, +and must go to Kabwabwata, and wait awhile there, meanwhile he would +think what he should do, whether to refuse or invite me to come. He +evidently does not wish me to see his strongholds. All his people +could go into them, though over ten thousand: they are all abundantly +supplied with water, and they form the storehouses for grain. + +_22nd October, 1868._--We came to Kabwabwata, and I hope I may find a +way to other underground houses. It is probable that they are not the +workmanship of the ancestors of the present occupants, for they +ascribe their formation invariably to the Deity, Mulungu or Réza: if +their forefathers had made them, some tradition would have existed of +them. + +_23rd October, 1868._--Syde bin Habib came over from Mpwéto's; he +reports Lualaba and Lufira flowing into the Lake of Kinkonza. +Lungabalé is paramount chief of Rua. + +Mparahala horns measured three feet long and three inches in diameter +at the base: this is the yellow kualata of Makololo, bastard gemsbuck +of the Dutch. + +_27th, 29th, and 30th October, 1868._--Salem bin Habib was killed by +the people in Rua: he had put up a tent and they attacked it in the +night, and stabbed him through it. Syde bin Habib waged a war of +vengeance all through Rua after this for the murder of his brother: +Sef's raid may have led the people to the murder. + +_29th October, 1868._--In coming north in September and October, the +last months of the dry season, I crossed many burns flowing quite in +the manner of our brooks at home, after a great deal of rain; here, +however, the water was clear, and the banks not abraded in the least. +Some rivulets had a tinge of white in them, as if of felspar in +disintegrating granite; some nearly stagnant burns had as if milk and +water in them, and some red oxide of iron. + +Where leeches occur they need no coaxing to bite, but fly at the white +skin like furies, and refuse to let go: with the fingers benumbed, +though the water is only 60°, one may twist them round the finger and +tug, but they slip through. I saw the natives detaching them with a +smart slap of the palm, and found it quite effectual. + +Swifts, Senegal swallows, and common dark-bellied swallows appeared at +Kizinga in the beginning of October: other birds, as drongo shrikes, a +bird with a reddish bill, but otherwise like a grey linnet, keep in +flocks yet. _(5th December.)_ They pair now. The kite came sooner than +the swallows; I saw the first at Bangweolo on the 20th July, 1868. + +_1st November, 1868._--At Kabwabwata; we are waiting till Syde comes +up that we may help him. He has an enormous number of tusks and bars +of copper, sufficient it seems for all his people to take forward, +going and returning three times over. He has large canoes on the Lake, +and will help us in return. + +_2nd November, 1868._--News came yesterday from Mpwéto's that +twenty-one slaves had run away from Syde bin Habib at one time: they +were Rua people, and out of the chains, as they were considered safe +when fairly over the Lualaba, but they showed their love of liberty on +the first opportunity. Mpwéto is suspected to have harboured them, or +helped them over the river; this will probably lead to Syde attacking +him, as he has done to so many chiefs in Rua. In this case Mpwéto will +have no sympathy; he is so wanting in the spirit of friendliness to +others. + +_3rd November, 1868._--Sent off men to hasten Syde onwards. We start +in two or three days. + +The oldest map known to be in existence is the map of the Ethiopian +Goldmines, dating from the time of Sethos I., the father of Rameses +II., long enough before the time of the bronze tablet of Aristagoras, +on which was inscribed the circuit of the whole earth, and all the sea +and all rivers. (Tylor, p. 90, quoted from Birch's _Archaeologia_, +vol. xxxiv. p. 382.) Sesostris was the first to distribute his maps. + +_8th November, 1868._--Syde bin Habib is said to have amassed 150 +frasilahs of ivory = 5250 lbs., and 300 frasilahs of copper = 10,500 +lbs. With one hundred carriers he requires to make four relays, or +otherwise make the journey four times over at every stage. Twenty-one +of his slaves ran away in one night, and only four were caught again: +they were not all bought, nor was the copper and ivory come at by fair +means; the murder of his brother was a good excuse for plunder, +murder, and capture. Mpwéto is suspected of harbouring them as living +on the banks of the Lualaba, for they could not get over without +assistance from his canoes and people. Mpwéto said, "Remove from me, +and we shall see if they come this way." They are not willing to +deliver fugitives up. Syde senŁ for Elmas, the only thing of the +Mullam or clerical order here, probably to ask if the Koran authorizes +him to attack Mpwéto. Mullam will reply, "Yes, certainly. If Mpwéto +won't restore your slaves, take what you can by force." Syde's +bloodshed is now pretty large, and he is becoming afraid for his own +life; if he ceases not, he will himself be caught some day. + +Ill of fever two days. Better and thankful. + +[Whilst waiting to start for Ujiji, Livingstone was intently occupied +on the great problem of the Nile and the important part he had taken +so recently in solving it: he writes at this date as follows:--] + + The discovery of the sources of the Nile is somewhat akin in + importance to the discovery of the North-West Passage, which + called forth, though in a minor degree, the energy, the + perseverance, and the pluck of Englishmen, and anything that does + that is beneficial to the nation and to its posterity. The + discovery of the sources of the Nile possesses, moreover, an + element of interest which the North-West Passage never had. The + great men of antiquity have recorded their ardent desires to know + the fountains of what Homer called "_Egypt's heaven-descended + spring._" Sesostris, the first who in camp with his army made and + distributed maps, not to Egyptians only, but to the Scythians, + naturally wished to know the springs, says Eustathius, of the + river on whose banks he flourished. Alexander the Great, who + founded a celebrated city at this river's-mouth, looked up the + stream with the same desire, and so did the Caesars. The great + Julius Caesar is made by Lucan to say that he would give up the + civil war if he might but see the fountains of this far-famed + river. Nero Caesar sent two centurions to examine the "_Caput + Nili_." They reported that they saw the river rushing with great + force from two rocks, and beyond that it was lost in immense + marshes. This was probably "native information," concerning the + cataracts of the Nile and a long space above them, which had + already been enlarged by others into two hills with sharp conical + tops called Crophi and Mophi--midway between which lay the + fountains of the Nile--fountains which it was impossible to + fathom, and which gave forth half their water to Ethiopia in the + south, and the other half to Egypt in the north: that which these + men failed to find, and that which many great minds in ancient + times longed to know, has in this late age been brought to light + by the patient toil and laborious perseverance of Englishmen.[66] + + In laying a contribution to this discovery at the feet of his + countrymen, the writer desires to give all the honour to his + predecessors which they deserve. The work of Speke and Grant is + deserving of the highest commendation, inasmuch as they opened up + an immense tract of previously unexplored country, in the firm + belief they were bringing to light the head of the Nile. No one + can appreciate the difficulties of their feat unless he has gone + into new country. In association with Captain Burton, Speke came + much nearer to the "coy fountains," than at the Victoria Nyanza, + but they all turned their backs on them. Mr. Baker showed courage + and perseverance worthy of an Englishman in following out the + hints given by Speke and Grant. But none rises higher in my + estimation than the Dutch lady Miss Tinné, who, after the + severest domestic afflictions, nobly persevered in the teeth of + every difficulty, and only turned away from the object of her + expedition, after being assured by Speke and Grant that they had + already discovered in Victoria Nyanza the sources she sought. Had + they not given their own mistaken views, the wise foresight by + which she provided a steamer, would inevitably have led her to + pull up, and by canoes to reach Lake Bangweolo's sources full + five hundred miles south of the most southerly part of Victoria + Nyanza. She evidently possesses some of the indomitable pluck of + Van Tromp, whose tomb every Englishman who goes to Holland must + see.[67] Her doctor was made a baron--were she not a Dutch lady + already we think she ought to be made a duchess. + + By way of contrast with what, if I live through it, I shall have + to give, I may note some of the most prominent ideas entertained + of this world-renowned river. Ptolemy, a geographer who lived in + the second century, and was not a king of Egypt, with the most + ancient maps made the Nile rise from the "Montes Lunae," between + ten and twelve south lat., by six several streams which flowed + north into two Lakes, situated east and west of each other. + These streams flowed about west of his river Rhapta, or Raptus, + which is probably our Rovuma or Louma. This was very near the + truth, but the Mountains of the Moon cannot be identified with + the Lokinga, or mountains of Bisa, from which many of the springs + do actually arise. Unless, indeed, we are nearer to the great + alterations in climate which have taken place, as we are supposed + to be nearer the epoch of the mammoth, aurochs, and others. Snow + never lay in these latitudes, on altitudes of 6000 feet above the + sea. + + Some of the ancients supposed the river to have its source in the + ocean. This was like the answer we received long ago from the + natives on the Liambai or Upper Zambesi when inquiring for its + source. "It rises in Leoatlé, the white man's sea, or Métséhula." + The second name means the "_grazing water_," from the idea of the + tides coming in to graze; as to the freshness of the Liambai + waters, they could offer no explanation. + + Some again thought that the Nile rose in Western Africa, and + after flowing eastwards across the Continent, turned northwards + to Egypt; others still thought that it rose in India! and others + again, from vague reports collected from their slaves, made it + and several other rivers rise but of a great inland sea. + _Achélunda_ was said to be the name of this Lake, and in the + language of Angola, it meant the "sea." It means only "_of_" or + "_belonging to Lunda_," a country. It might have been a sea that + was spoken of on a whole, or anything. "_Nyassi, or the sea_," + was another name and another blunder. "Nyassi" means long grass, + and nothing else. Nyanza contracted into Nyassa, means lake, + marsh, any piece of water, or even the dry bed of a lake. The _N_ + and _y_ are joined in the mouth, and never pronounced separately. + The "Naianza"!--it would be nearer the mark to say the Nancy! + + Of all theoretical discoverers, the man who ran in 200 miles of + Lake and placed them on a height of some 4000 feet at the + north-west end of Lake Nyassa, deserves the highest place. Dr. + Beke, in his guess, came nearer the sources than most others, but + after all he pointed out where they would not be found. Old Nile + played the theorists a pretty prank by having his springs 500 + miles south of them all! I call mine a contribution, because it + is just a hundred years (1769) since Bruce, a greater traveller + than any of us, visited Abyssinia, and having discovered the + sources of the Blue Nile, he thought that he had then solved the + ancient problem. Am I to be cut out by some one discovering + southern fountains of the river of Egypt, of which I have now no + conception? + + David Livingstone. + +[The tiresome procrastination of Mohamad and his horde was not +altogether an unmixed evil. With so many new discoveries in hand +Livingstone had an opportunity for working out several problems, and +instituting comparisons between the phenomena of Inner Africa and the +well-marked changes which go on in other parts of the world. We find +him at this time summing them up as follows:--] + +The subject of change of climate from alteration of level has not +received the investigation it deserves. Mr. Darwin saw reason to +believe that very great alterations of altitude, and of course of +climate, had taken place in South America and the islands of the +Pacific; the level of a country above the sea I believe he thought to +be as variable as the winds. A very great alteration of altitude has +also taken place in Africa; this is apparent on the sea-coast of +Angola, and all through the centre of the country, where large rivers +which once flowed southwards and westwards are no longer able to run +in these directions: the general desiccation of the country, as seen +in the beds of large rivers and of enormous lakes, tells the same +tale. Portions of the east coast have sunk, others have risen, even in +the Historic Period. The upper or northern end of the Red Sea has +risen, so that the place of the passage of the children of Israel is +now between forty and fifty miles from Suez, the modern head of the +Gulf. This upheaval, and not the sand from the desert, caused the +disuse of the ancient canal across the Isthmus: it took place since +the Mohamadan conquest of Egypt. The women of the Jewish captivities +were carried past the end of the Red Sea and along the Mediterranean +in ox-waggons, where such cattle would now all perish for want of +water and pasture; in fact, the route to Assyria would have proved +more fatal to captives then than the middle passage has been to +Africans since. It may be true that, _as the desert is now_, it could +not have been traversed by the multitude under Moses--the German +strictures put forth by Dr. Colenso, under the plea of the progress of +science, assume that no alteration has taken place in either desert or +climate--but a scientific examination of the subject would have +ascertained what the country was then when it afforded pasture to +"flocks and herds, and even very much cattle." We know that Eziongeber +was, with its docks, on the seashore, with water in abundance for the +ship-carpenters: it is now far from the head of the Elaic Gulf in a +parched desert. Aden, when visited by the Portuguese Balthazar less +than 300 years ago, was a perfect garden; but it is now a vast +conglomeration of black volcanic rocks, with so little vegetation, +that, on seeing flocks of goats driven out, I thought of the Irish +cabman at an ascent slamming the door of his cab and whispering to his +fare, "Whish, it's to desave the baste: he thinks that you are out +walking." Gigantic tanks in great numbers and the ruins of aqueducts +appear as relics of the past, where no rain now falls for three or +more years at a time. They have all dried up by a change of climate, +possibly similar and cotemporaneous with that which has dried up the +Dead Sea. + +The journey of Ezra was undertaken after a fast at the River Ahava. +With nearly 50,000 people he had only about 8000 beasts of burden. He +was ashamed to ask a band of soldiers and horsemen for protection in +the way. It took about four months to reach Jerusalem; this would give +five and a half or six miles a day, as the crow flies, which is equal +to twelve or fifteen miles of surface travelled over; this bespeaks a +country capable of yielding both provisions and water, such as cannot +now be found. Ezra would not have been ashamed to ask for camels to +carry provisions and water had the country been as dry as it is now. +The prophets, in telling all the woes and miseries of the captivities, +never allude to suffering or perishing by thirst in the way, or being +left to rot in the route as African slaves are now in a well-watered +country. Had the route to Assyria been then as it is now, they could +scarcely have avoided referring to the thirst of the way; but +everything else is mentioned except that. + +Respecting this system of Lakes in the centre of Africa, it will +possibly occur to some that Lake Nyassa may give a portion of its +water off from its northern end to the Nile, but this would imply a +Lake giving off a river at both ends; the country, too, on the +north-north-west and north-east rises to from 4000 to 6000 feet above +the sea, and there is not the smallest indication that Nyassa and +Tanganyika were ever connected. Lake Liemba is the most southerly part +of Tanganyika; its latitude is 8° 46' south; the most northerly point +of Lake Nyassa is probably 10° 56'-8° 46' = 2° 10'. Longitude of +Liemba 34° 57'-31° 57' = 3° 00' = 180' of longitude. Of latitude 130' ++ 180' = 310', two-thirds of which is about 206', the distance between +two Lakes; and no evidence of fissure, rent, or channel now appears on +the highland between. + +Again, Liemba is 3000 feet above the sea. The altitude of Nyassa is +1200/x800 feet. Tanganyika would thus go to Nyassa--down the Shiré +into the Zambesi and the sea, if a passage existed even below ground. + +The large Lake, said to exist to the north-west of Tanganyika might, +however, send a branch to the Nile; but the land rises up into a high +ridge east of this Lake. + +It is somewhat remarkable that the impression which intelligent +Suaheli, who have gone into Karagwé, have received is, that the +Kitangulé flows from Tanganyika into Lake Ukerewé. One of Syde bin +Omar's people put it to me very forcibly the other day by saying, +"Kitangulé is an arm of Tanganyika!" He had not followed it out; but +that Dagara, the father of Rumanyika, should have in his lifetime +seriously proposed to deepen the upper part of it, so as to allow +canoes to pass from his place to Ujiji, is very strong evidence of the +river being large on the Tanganyika side. We know it to be of good +size, and requiring canoes on the Ukerewé side. Burton came to the +very silly conclusion that when a native said a river ran one way, he +meant that it flowed in the opposite direction. Ujiji, in Rumanyika's +time, was the only mart for merchandise in the country. Garaganza or +Galaganza has most trade and influence now. (_14th Sept., 1868._) + +Okara is the name by which Victoria Nyanza is known on the eastern +side, and an arm of it, called Kavirondo, is about forty miles broad. +Lake Baringo is a distinct body of water, some fifty miles broad, and +giving off a river called Ngardabash, which flows eastwards into the +Somauli country. Lake Naibash is more to the east than Kavirondo, and +about fifty miles broad too: it gives off the River Kidété, which is +supposed to flow into Lufu. It is south-east of Kavirondo; and +Kilimanjaro can be seen from its shores; in the south-east Okara, +Naibash and Baringo seem to have been run by Speke into one Lake. +Okara, in the south, is full of large islands, and has but little +water between them; that little is encumbered with aquatic vegetation +called "Tikatika," on which, as in lakelet Gumadona, a man can walk. +Waterlilies and duckweed are not the chief part of this floating mass. +In the north Okara is large. Burukineggé land is the boundary between +the people of Kavirondo and the Gallahs with camels and horses. + +_9th November, 1868._--Copied several Notes written at Kizinga and +elsewhere, and at Kabwabwata resume Journal. Some slight showers have +cooled the air a little: this is the hottest time of the year. + +_10th November, 1868._--A heavier shower this morning will have more +of the same effect. + +_11th November, 1868._--Muabo visited this village, but refuses to +show his underground houses. + +_13th November, 1868._--I was on the point of starting without Mohamad +Bogharib, but he begged me not to go till he had settled some weighty +matter about a wife he is to get at Ujiji from Mpamari; we must have +the new moon, which will appear in three days, for lucky starting, and +will leave Syde bin Habib at Chisabi's. Meanwhile two women slaves ran +away, and Syde has got only five back of his twenty-one fugitives. +Mullam was mild with his decisions, and returned here; he informed me +that many of Syde's slaves, about forty, fled. Of those who cannot +escape many die, evidently broken-hearted; they are captives, and not, +as slaves often are, criminals sold for their guilt, hence the great +mortality caused by being taken to the sea to be, as they believe, +fatted and eaten. Poor things! Heaven help them! + +Ujiji is the pronunciation of the Banyamwezi; and they call the people +Wayeiyé, exactly as the same people styled themselves on the River +Zougha, near Ngami. + +[It will be remembered that several of his men refused to go to Lake +Bangweolo with him: they seem now to have thought better of it, and on +his return are anxious to come back to their old master who, for his +part, is evidently willing to overlook a good deal.] + +I have taken all the runaways back again; after trying the independent +life they will behave better. Much of their ill conduct may be +ascribed to seeing that after the flight of the Johanna men I was +entirely dependent on them: more enlightened people often take +advantage of men in similar circumstances; though I have seen pure +Africans come out generously to aid one abandoned to their care. I +have faults myself. + +_15th November, 1868._--The Arabs have some tradition of the Emir Musa +coming as far south as the Jagga country. Some say he lived N.E. of +Sunna, now Mtéza; but it is so mixed up with fable and tales of the +Genii (Mageni), that it cannot refer to the great Moses, concerning +whose residence at Meröe and marriage of the king of Ethiopia's +daughter there is also some vague tradition further north: the only +thing of interest to me is the city of Meröe, which is lost, and may, +if built by ancient Egyptians, still be found. + +The Africans all beckon with the hand, to call a person, in a +different way from what Europeans do. The hand is held, as surgeons +say, _prone_, or palm down, while we beckon with the hand held +_supine_, or palm up: it is quite natural in them, for the idea in +their mind is to lay the hand on the person and draw him towards them. +If the person wished for is near, say forty yards off, the beckoner +puts out his right hand on a level with his breast, and makes the +motion of catching the other by shutting the fingers and drawing him +to himself: if the person is further off, this motion is exaggerated +by lifting up the right hand as high as he can; he brings it down with +a sweep towards the ground, the hand being still held prone as before. +In nodding assent they differ from us by lifting up the chin instead +of bringing it down as we do. This lifting up the chin looks natural +after a short usage therewith, and is perhaps purely conventional, not +natural, as the other seems to be. + +_16th November, 1868._--I am tired out by waiting after finishing the +Journal, and will go off to-morrow north. Simon killed a zebra after I +had taken the above resolution, and this supply of meat makes delay +bearable, for besides flesh, of which I had none, we can buy all kinds +of grain and pulse for the next few days. The women of the adjacent +villages crowd into this as soon as they hear of an animal killed, and +sell all the produce of their plantations for meat. + +_17th November, 1868._--It is said that on the road to the Great Salt +Lake in America the bones and skulls of animals lie scattered +everywhere, yet travellers are often put to great straits for fuel: +this, if true, is remarkable among a people so apt in turning +everything to account as the Americans. When we first steamed up the +River Shiré our fuel ran out in the elephant marsh, where no trees +exist, and none could be reached without passing through many miles on +either side of impassable swamp, covered with reeds, and intersected +everywhere with deep branches of the river. Coming to a spot where an +elephant had been slaughtered, I at once took the bones on board, and +these, with the bones of a second elephant, enabled us to steam +briskly up to where wood abounded. The Scythians, according to +Herodotus, used the bones[68] of the animal sacrificed to boil the +flesh, the Guachos of South America do the same when they have no +fuel: the ox thus boils himself. + +_18th November, 1868._--A pretty little woman ran away from her +husband, and came to "Mpamari." Her husband brought three hoes, a +checked cloth, and two strings of large neck beads to redeem her; but +this old fellow wants her for himself, and by native law he can keep +her as his slave-wife. Slave-owners make a bad neighbourhood, for the +slaves, are always running away and the headmen are expected to +restore the fugitives for a bit of cloth. An old woman of Mpmari fled +three times; she was caught yesterday, and tied to a post for the +young slaves to plague her. Her daughter burst into an agony of tears +on seeing them tying her mother, and Mpamari ordered her to be tied to +the mother's back for crying; I interceded for her, and she was let +go. He said, "You don't care, though Sayed Majid loses his money." I +replied, "Let the old woman go, she will be off again to-morrow." But +they cannot bear to let a slave have freedom. I don't understand what +effect his long prayers and prostrations towards the "Kibla" have on +his own mind, they cannot affect the minds of his slaves favourably, +nor do they mine, though I am as charitable as most people. + +_19th November, 1868._--I prepared to start to-day, but Mohamad +Bogharib has been very kind, and indeed cooked meals for me from my +arrival at Casembe's, 6th May last, till we came here, 22nd October; +the food was coarse enough, but still it was food; and I did not like +to refuse his genuine hospitality. He now begged of me not to go for +three days, and then he would come along with me! Mpamari also +entreated. I would not have minded him, but they have influence with +the canoe-men on Tanganyika, and it is well not to get a bad name if +possible. + +_20th November, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib purposed to attack two +villages near to this, from an idea that the people there concealed +his runaway slaves; by remaining I think that I have put a stop to +this, as he did not like to pillage while I was in company: Mpamari +also turned round towards peace, though he called all the riff-raff to +muster, and caracoled among them like an old broken-winded horse. One +man became so excited with yelling, that the others had to disarm +him, and he then fell down as if in a fit; water poured on his head +brought him to calmness. We go on the 22nd. + +_22nd November, 1868._--This evening the Imbozhwa, or Babemba, came at +dusk, and killed a Wanyamwezi woman on one side of the village, and a +woman and child on the other side of it. I took this to be the result +of the warlike demonstration mentioned above; but one of Mohamad +Bogharib's people, named Bin Juma, had gone to a village on the north +of this and seized two women and two girls, in lieu of four slaves who +had run away. The headman, resenting this, shot an arrow into one of +Bin Junta's party, and Bin Juma shot a woman with his gun. + +This, it turned out, had roused the whole country, and next morning we +were assailed by a crowd of Imbozhwa on three sides: we had no +stockade, but the men built one as fast as the enemy allowed, cutting +down trees and carrying them to the line of defence, while others kept +the assailants at bay with their guns. Had it not been for the crowd +of Banyamwezi which we have, who shot vigorously with their arrows, +and occasionally chased the Imbozhwa, we should have been routed. I +did not go near the fighting, but remained in my house to defend my +luggage if necessary. The women went up and down the village with +sieves, as if winnowing, and singing songs, and lullilooing, to +encourage their husbands and friends who were fighting, each had a +branch of the Ficus indica in her hand, which she waved, I suppose as +a charm. About ten of the Imbozhwa are said to have been killed, but +dead and wounded were at once carried off by their countrymen. They +continued the assault from early dawn till 1 P.M., and showed great +bravery, but they wounded only two with their arrows. Their care to +secure the wounded was admirable: two or three at once seized the +fallen man, and ran off with him, though pursued by a great crowd of +Banyamwezi with spears, and fired at by the Suaheli--Victoria-cross +fellows truly many of them were! Those who had a bunch of animals' +tails, with medicine, tied to their waists, came sidling and ambling +up to near the unfinished stockade, and shot their arrows high up into +the air, to fall among the Wanyamwezi, then picked up any arrows on +the field, ran back, and returned again. They thought that by the +ambling gait they avoided the balls, and when these whistled past them +they put down their heads, as if to allow them to pass over; they had +never encountered guns before. We did not then know it, but Muabo, +Phuta, Ngurué, Sandaruko, and Chapi, were the assailants, for we found +it out by the losses each of these five chiefs sustained. + +It was quite evident to me that the Suaheli Arabs were quite taken +aback by the attitude of the natives; they expected them to flee as +soon as they heard a gun fired in anger, but instead of this we were +very nearly being cut off, and should have been but for our Banyamwezi +allies. It is fortunate that the attacking party had no success in +trying to get Mpwéto and Karembwé to join them against us, or it would +have been more serious still. + +_24th November, 1868._--The Imbozhwa, or Babemba rather, came early +this morning, and called on Mohamad to come out of his stockade if he +were a man who could fight, but the fence is now finished, and no one +seems willing to obey the taunting call: I have nothing to do with it, +but feel thankful that I was detained, and did not, with my few +attendants, fall into the hands of the justly infuriated Babemba. They +kept up the attack to-day, and some went out to them, fighting till +noon: when a man was killed and not carried off, the Wanyamwezi +brought his head and put it on a pole on the stockade--six heads were +thus placed. A fine young man was caught and brought in by the +Wanyamwezi, one stabbed him behind, another cut his forehead with an +axe, I called in vain to them not to kill him. As a last appeal, he +said to the crowd that surrounded him, "Don't kill me, and I shall +take you to where the women are." "You lie," said his enemies; "you +intend to take us where we may be shot by your friends;" and they +killed him. It was horrible: I protested loudly against any repetition +of this wickedness, and the more sensible agreed that prisoners ought +not to be killed, but the Banyamwezi are incensed against the Babemba +because of the women killed on the 22nd. + +_25th November, 1868._--The Babemba kept off on the third day, and the +Arabs are thinking it will be a good thing if we get out of the +country unscathed. Men were sent off on the night of the 23rd to Syde +bin Habib for powder and help. Mohamad Bogharib is now unwilling to +take the onus of the war: he blames Mpamari, and Mpamari blames him; I +told Mohamad that the war was undoubtedly his work, inasmuch as Bin +Juma is his man, and he approved of his seizing the women. + +He does not like this, but it is true; he would not have entered a +village of Casembe or Moamba or Chikumbi as he did Chapi's man's +village: the people here are simply men of more metal than he +imagined, and his folly in beginning a war in which, if possible, his +slaves will slip through his hands is apparent to all, even to +himself. Syde sent four barrels of gunpowder and ten men, who arrived +during last night. + +_27th November, 1868._--Two of Muabo's men came over to bring on a +parley; one told us that he had been on the south side of the village +before, and heard one man say to another "mo pigé" (shoot him). +Mpamari gave them a long oration in exculpation, but it was only the +same everlasting, story of fugitive slaves. The slave-traders cannot +prevent them from escaping, and impudently think that the country +people ought to catch them, and thus be their humble servants, and +also the persecutors of their own countrymen! If they cannot keep +them, why buy them--why put their money into a bag with holes? + +It is exactly what took place in America--slave-owners are bad +neighbours everywhere. Canada was threatened, England browbeaten, and +the Northerners all but kicked on the same score, and all as if +property in slaves had privileges which no other goods have. To hear +the Arabs say of the slaves after they are fled, "Oh, they are bad, +bad, very bad!" (and they entreated me too to free them from the +yoke), is, as the young ladies say, "too absurd." The chiefs also who +do not apprehend fugitives, they too are "bad." + +I proposed to Mohamad Bogharib to send back the women seized by Bin +Juma, to show the Babemba that he disapproved of the act and was +willing to make peace, but this was too humiliating; I added that +their price as slaves was four barrels of gunpowder or 160 dollars, +while slaves lawfully bought would have cost him only eight or ten +yards of calico each. At the conclusion of Mpamari's speech the four +barrels of gunpowder were exhibited, and so was the Koran, to impress +them (Muabo's people) with an idea of their great power. + +_28th and 29th November, 1868._--It is proposed to go and force our +way if we can to the north, but all feel that that would be a fine +opportunity for the slaves to escape, and they would not be loth to +embrace it; this makes it a serious matter, and the Koran is consulted +at hours which are auspicious. + +_30th November, 1868._--Messengers sent to Muabo to ask a path, or in +plain words protection from him; Mpamari protests his innocence of the +whole affair. + +_1st December, 1868._--Muabo's people over again; would fain send them +to make peace with Chapi! + +_2nd December, 1868._--The detention is excessively vexatious to me. +Muabo sent three slaves as offers of peace--a fine self-imposed, but +he is on our south side, and we wish to go north. + +_3rd December, 1868._--A party went to-day to clear the way to the +north, but were warmly received by Babemba with arrows; they came back +with one woman captured, and they say that they killed one man: one of +themselves is wounded, and many others in danger: others who went east +were shot at, and wounded too. + +_4th December, 1868._--A party went east, and were fain to flee from +the Babemba, the same thing occurred on our west, and to-day _(5th)_ +all were called to strengthen the stockade for fear that the enemy may +enter uninvited. The slaves would certainly flee, and small blame to +them though they did. Mpamari proposed to go off north by night, but +his people objected, as even a child crying would arouse the Babemba, +and reveal the flight, so finally he sent off to ask Syde what he +ought to do, whether to retire by day or by night; probably entreating +Syde to come and protect him. + +A sort of idol is found in every village in this part, it is of wood, +and represents the features, markings and fashion of the hair of the +inhabitants: some have little huts built for them--others are in +common houses. The Babemba call them _Nkisi_ ("Sancan" of the Arabs): +the people of Rua name one _Kalubi_; the plural, _Tulubi_; and they +present pombe, flour, bhang, tobacco, and light a fire for them to +smoke by. They represent the departed father or mother, and it is +supposed that they are pleased with the offerings made to their +representatives, but all deny that they pray to them. Casembe has very +many of these Nkisi; one with long hair, and named _Motombo_, is +carried in front when he takes the field; names of dead chiefs are +sometimes given to them. I have not met with anyone intelligent enough +to explain if prayers are ever made to anyone; the Arabs who know +their language, say they have no prayers, and think that at death +there is an end of the whole man, but other things lead me to believe +this is erroneous. Slaves laugh at their countrymen, in imitation of +their masters, and will not reveal their real thoughts: one said that +they believed in two Superior Beings--Réza above, who kills people, +and Réza below, who carries them away after death. + +_6th December, 1868._--Ten of Syde bin Habib's people came over, +bringing a letter, the contents of which neither Mpamari nor Mohamad +cares to reveal. Some think, with great probability, that he asks, +"Why did you begin a war if you wanted to leave so soon? Did you not +know that the country people would take advantage of your march, +encumbered as you will be by women and slaves?" Mohamad Bogharib +called me to ask what advice I could give him, as all his own advice, +and devices too, had been lost or were useless, and he did not know +what to do. The Banyamwezi threatened to go off by night and leave +him, as they are incensed against the Babemba, and offended because +the Arabs do not aid them in wreaking their vengeance upon them. + +I took care not to give any advice, but said, if I had been or was in +his place, I would have sent or would send back Bin Juma's captives, +to show that I disapproved of his act--the first in the war--and was +willing to make peace with Chapi. He said that he did not know that +Bin Juma would capture these people; that Bin Juma had met some +natives with fish, and took ten by force, that the natives, in +revenge, caught three Banyamwezi slaves, and Bin Juma then gave one +slave to them as a fine, but Mohamad did not know of this affair +either. I am of opinion, however, that he was fully aware of both +matters, and Mpamari's caracoling showed that he knew it all, though +now he denies it. + +Bin Juma is a long, thin, lanky Suaheli, six feet two high, with a +hooked nose and large lips: I told Mohamad that if he were to go with +us to Manyuema, the whole party would be cut off. He came here, bought +a slave-boy, and allowed him to escape; then browbeat Chapi's man +about him (and he says, three others); and caught ten in lieu of him, +of which Mohamad restored six: this was the origin of the war. Now +that we are in the middle of it, I must do as Mohamad does in going +off either by day or by night. It is unreasonable to ask my advice +now, but it is felt that they have very unjustifiably placed me in a +false position, and they fear that Syed Majid will impute blame to +them, meanwhile Syde bin Habib sent a private message to me to come +with his men to him, and leave this party. + +I perceive that the plan now is to try and clear our way of Chapi, and +then march, but I am so thoroughly disgusted with this slave-war, that +I think of running the risk of attack by the country people, and go +off to-morrow without Mohamad Bogharib, though I like him much more +than I do Mpamari or Syde bin Habib. It is too glaring hypocrisy to go +to the Koran for guidance while the stolen women, girls, and fish, are +in Bin Juma's hands. + +_8th and 9th December, 1868._--I had to wait for the Banyamwezi +preparing food: Mohamad has no authority over them, or indeed over +anyone else. Two Babemba men came in and said that they had given up +fighting, and begged for their wives, who had been captured by Syde's +people on their way here: this reasonable request was refused at +first, but better counsels prevailed, and they were willing to give +something to appease the anger of the enemy, and sent back six +captives, two of whom were the wives prayed for. + +[At last he makes a start on the 11th of December with the Arabs, who +are bound eastwards for Ujiji. It is a motley group, composed of +Mohamad and his friends, a gang of Unyamwezi hangers-on, and strings +of wretched slaves yoked together in their heavy slave-sticks. Some +carry ivory, others copper, or food for the march, whilst hope and +fear, misery and villainy, may be read off on the various faces that +pass in line out of this country, like a serpent dragging its accursed +folds away from the victim it has paralysed with its fangs.] + + * * * * * + +_11th December, 1868._--We marched four hours unmolested by the +natives, built a fence, and next day crossed the Lokinda River and its +feeder the Mookosi; here the people belonged to Chisabi, who had not +joined the other Babemba. We go between two ranges of tree-covered +mountains, which are continuations of those on each side of Moero. + +_12th December, 1868._--The tiresome tale of slaves running away was +repeated again last night by two of Mpamari's making off, though in +the yoke, and they had been with him from boyhood. Not one +good-looking slave-woman is now left of Mohamad Bogharib's fresh +slaves; all the pretty ones obtain favour by their address, beg to be +unyoked, and then escape. Four hours brought us to many villages of +Chisabi and the camp of Syde bin Habib in the middle of a set-in rain, +which marred the demonstration at meeting with his relative Mpamari; +but the women braved it through, wet to the skin, and danced and +lullilooed with "draigled" petticoats with a zeal worthy of a better +cause, as the "penny-a-liners" say. It is the custom for the trader +who receives visitors to slaughter goats, and feed all his guests for +at least two days, nor was Syde wanting in this hospitality, though +the set-in rain continuing, we did not enjoy it as in fine weather. + +_14th December, 1868._--Cotton-grass and brackens all over the country +show the great humidity of Marungu. Rain daily; but this is not the +great rain which falls when the sun comes back south over our heads. + +_15th December, 1868._--March two hours only to the range of Tamba. A +pretty little light-grey owl, called "nkwékwé," was killed by a +native as food; a black ring round its face and its black ears gave it +all the appearance of a cat, whose habits it follows. + +_16th to 18th December, 1868._--A brother of Syde bin Habib died last +night: I had made up my mind to leave the whole party, but Syde said +that Chisabi was not to be trusted, and the death of his brother +having happened, it would not be respectful to leave him to bury his +dead alone. Six of his slaves fled during the night--one, the keeper +of the others. A Mobemba man, who had been to the coast twice with +him, is said to have wished a woman who was in the chain, so he loosed +five out, and took her off; the others made clear heels of it, and now +that the grass is long and green, no one can trace their course. + +Syde told me that the slaves would not have detained him, but his +brother's death did. We buried the youth, who has been ill three +months. Mpamari descended into the grave with four others; a broad +cloth was held over them horizontally, and a little fluctuation made, +as if to fan those who were depositing the body in the side excavation +made at the bottom: when they had finished they pulled in earth, and +all shoved it towards them till the grave was level. Mullam then came +and poured a little water into and over the grave, mumbled a few +prayers, at which Mpamari said aloud to me, "Mullam does not let his +voice be heard;" and Mullam smiled to me, as if to say, "Loud enough +for all I shall get:" during the ceremony the women were all wailing +loudly. We went to the usual sitting-place, and shook hands with Syde, +as if receiving him back again into the company of the living. + +Syde told me previously to this event that he had fought the people +who killed his elder brother Salem bin Habib, and would continue to +fight them till all their country was spoiled and a desolation: there +is no forgiveness with Moslems for bloodshed. He killed many, and took +many slaves, ivory, and copper: his tusks number over 200, many of +large size. + +_19th and 20th December, 1868._--To Chisabi's village stockade, on the +left bank of the Lofunso, which flows in a marshy valley three miles +broad. Eight of Mohamad Bogharib's slaves fled by night, one with his +gun and wife; a, large party went in search, but saw nothing of them. + +To-day an elephant was killed, and they sent for the meat, but Chisabi +ordered the men to let his meat alone: experience at Kabwabwata said, +"Take the gentle course," so two fathoms of calico and two hoes were +sent to propitiate the chief; Chisabi then demanded half the meat and +one tusk: the meat was given, but the tusk was mildly refused: he is +but a youth, and this is only the act of his counsellors. It was +replied that Casembe, Chikumbi, Nsama, Meréré, made no demand at all: +his counsellors have probably heard of the Portuguese self-imposed +law, and wish to introduce it here, but both tusks were secured. + +_22nd December, 1868._--We crossed the Lofunso River, wading three +branches, the first of forty-seven yards, then the river itself, fifty +yards, and neck deep to men and women of ordinary size. Two were swept +away and drowned; other two were rescued by men leaping in and saving +them, one of whom was my man Susi. A crocodile bit one person badly, +but was struck, and driven off. Two slaves escaped by night; a woman +loosed her husband's yoke from the tree, and got clear off. + +_24th December, 1868._--Five sick people detain us to-day; some cannot +walk from feebleness and purging brought on by sleeping on the damp +ground without clothes. + +Syde bin Habib reports a peculiar breed of goats in Rua, remarkably +short in the legs, so much so, that they cannot travel far; they give +much milk, and become very fat, but the meat is indifferent. Gold is +found at Katanga in the pool of a waterfall only: it probably comes +from the rocks above this. His account of the Lofu, or, as he says, +West Lualaba, is identical with that of his cousin, Syde bin Omar; it +flows north, but west of Lufira, into the Lake of Kinkonza, so named +after the chief. The East Lualaba becomes very large, often as much as +six or eight miles broad, with many inhabited islands, the people of +which, being safe from invasion, are consequently rapacious and +dishonest, and their chiefs, Moengé and Nyamakunda, are equally +lawless. A hunter, belonging to Syde, named Kabwebwa, gave much +information gleaned during his hunting trips; for instance, the Lufira +has nine feeders of large size; and one, the Lekulwé, has also nine +feeders; another, the Kisungu, is covered with, "tikatika," by which +the people cross it, though it bends under their weight; he also +ascribes the origin of the Lufira and the Lualaba West, or Lofu, with +the Liambai to one large earthen mound, which he calls "segulo," or an +anthill! + +_25th December, 1868, Christmas Day._--We can buy nothing except the +very coarsest food--not a goat or fowl--while Syde, having plenty of +copper, can get all the luxuries. We marched past Mount Katanga, +leaving it on our left, to the River Kapéta, and slaughtered a +favourite kid to make a Christmas dinner. A trading-party came up from +Ujiji; they said that we were ten camps from Tanganyika. They gave an +erroneous report that a steamer with a boat in tow was on Lake +Chowambé--an English one, too, with plenty of cloth and beads on +board. A letter had come from Abdullah bin Salem, Moslem missionary at +Mtésa's, to Ujiji three months ago with this news. + +_26th December, 1868._--We marched up an ascent 2-1/2 hours, and got +on to the top of one of the mountain ridges, which generally run N. +and S. Three hours along this level top brought us to the Kibawé +River, a roaring rivulet beside villages. There were no people on the +height over which we came, though the country is very fine--green and +gay with varying shades of that colour. We passed through patches of +brackens five feet high and gingers in flower, and were in a damp +cloud all day. Now and then a drizzle falls in these parts, but it +keeps all damp only, and does not show in the rain-gauge. Neither sun +nor stars appear. + +_27th and 28th December, 1868._--Remain on Sunday, then march and +cross five rivulets about four yards wide and knee deep, going to the +Lofunso. The grass now begins to cover and hide the paths; its growth +is very rapid: blobs of water lie on the leaves all day, and keep the +feet constantly wet by falling as we pass. + +_29th December, 1868._--We kept well on the ridge between two ranges +of hills; then went down, and found a partially-burned native +stockade, and lodged in it; the fires of the Ujiji party had set the +huts on fire after the party left. We are in the Itandé district at +the Nswiba River. + +_30th December, 1868._--We now went due east, and made a good deal of +easting too from Mount Katanga on the Lofunso, and crossed the River +Lokivwa, twelve yards wide, and very deep, with villages all about. We +ascended much as we went east. Very high mountains appeared on the +N.W. The woods dark gieen, with large patches of a paler hue. + +_31st December, 1868._--We reached the Lofuko yesterday in a pelting +rain; not knowing that the camp with huts was near, I stopped and put +on a bernouse, got wet, and had no dry clothes. Remain to-day to buy +food. Clouds cover all the sky from N.W. The river, thirty yards wide, +goes to Tanganyika east of this. Scenery very lovely. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[66] In 1827 Linant reached 13° 30' N. on the White Nile. In 1841 the +second Egyptian, under D'Arnauld and Sabatier, explored the river to +4° 42' N., and Jomard published his work on Limmoo and the River +Habaiah. Dr. Beke and Mr. D'Abbadie contributed their share to making +the Nile better known. Brun Rollet established a trading station in +1854 at Belema on the Nile at 5° N. lat. + +[67] Miss Tinné succumbed to the dangers of African travelling before +Livingstone penned these just words of appreciation. + +[68] Ezek. xxiv. 5. + +END OF VOL. I. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID +LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH, VOLUME I (OF 2), +1866-1868*** + + +******* This file should be named 16672-8.txt or 16672-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/6/7/16672 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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