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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in
+Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868, by
+David Livingstone, Edited by Horace Waller
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume I (of 2), 1866-1868
+
+
+Author: David Livingstone
+
+Editor: Horace Waller
+
+Release Date: September 7, 2005  [eBook #16672]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID
+LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH, VOLUME I (OF 2),
+1866-1868***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Steven Gibbs and the Project Gutenberg Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 16672-h.htm or 16672-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/6/7/16672/16672-h/16672-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/6/7/16672/16672-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE,
+IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH.
+
+Continued by a Narrative of His Last Moments and Sufferings,
+Obtained from His Faithful Servants Chuma and Susi,
+
+by
+
+HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S.,
+Rector Of Twywell, Northampton.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.--VOL. I.
+[1866-1868]
+
+With Portrait, Maps, and Illustrations.
+
+London:
+John Murray, Albemarle Street.
+
+1874
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+In the midst of the universal sorrow caused by the intelligence that
+Dr. Livingstone had lost his life at the furthest point to which he
+had penetrated in his search for the true sources of the Nile, a faint
+hope was indulged that some of his journals might survive the
+disaster: this hope, I rejoice to say, has been realized beyond the
+most sanguine expectations.
+
+It is due, in the first place, to his native attendants, whose
+faithfulness has placed his last writings at our disposal, and also to
+the reader, before he launches forth upon a series of travels and
+scientific geographical records of the most extraordinary character,
+to say that in the following narrative of seven years' continuous work
+and new discovery _no break whatever occurs_.
+
+We have not to deplore the loss, by accident or carelessness, of a
+single entry, from the time of Livingstone's departure from Zanzibar
+in the beginning of 1866 to the day when his note-book dropped from
+his hand in the village of Ilala at the end of April, 1873.
+
+I trust it will not be uninteresting if I preface the history with a
+few words on the nature of these journals and writings as they have
+come to hand from Central Africa.
+
+It will be remembered that when Mr. Stanley returned to England in
+1872, Dr. Livingstone entrusted to his care a very large Letts' diary,
+sealed up and consigned to the safe keeping of his daughter, Miss
+Agnes Livingstone. Upon the confirmation of the worst news, this book
+was examined and found to contain a considerable portion of the notes
+which her father made during his travels previous to the time of Mr.
+Stanley's meeting him.
+
+The Doctor's custom was always to have metallic note-books in use, in
+which the day's jottings were recorded. When time and opportunity
+served, the larger volume was posted up with scrupulous care.
+
+It seems, however, that in the last three or four years of his life
+this excellent rule had to give way to the toils of travel and the
+exhaustion of most distressing illnesses. Whilst in the Manyuema
+country he ran out of note-books, ink, and pencils, and had to resort
+to shifts which at first made it a very debateable point whether the
+most diligent attempt at deciphering would suceeed after all. Such
+pocket-books as remained at this period of his travels were utilized
+to the last inch of paper. In some of them we find lunar observations,
+the names of rivers, and the heights of hills advancing towards the
+middle from one end, whilst from the other the itinerary grows day by
+day, interspersed with map routes of the march, botanical notes, and
+carefully made drawings. But in the mean time the middle portion of
+the book was filling up with calculations, private memoranda, words
+intended for vocabularies, and extracts from books, whilst here and
+there the stain of a pressed flower causes indistinctness; yet the
+thread of the narrative runs throughout. Noting but his invariable
+habit of constantly repeating the month and year obviates hopeless
+confusion. Nor is this all; for pocket-books gave out at last, and old
+newspapers, yellow with African damp, were sewn together, and his
+notes were written across the type with a substitute for ink made from
+the juice of a tree. To Miss Livingstone and to the Rev. C.A. Alington
+I am very much indebted for help in the laborious task of deciphering
+this portion of the Doctor's journals. Their knowledge of his
+handwriting, their perseverance, coupled with good eyes and a strong
+magnifying-glass, at last made their task a complete success.
+
+In comparing this great mass of material with the journal brought
+home by Mr. Stanley, one finds that a great deal of most interesting
+matter can be added. It would seem that in the hurry of writing and
+copying despatches previous to his companion's departure, the Doctor
+rapidly entered up as much from his note-books as time and space
+permitted.
+
+Most fortunately, he still carried the greater part of these original
+notes till the time of his death, so that they were forthcoming when
+his effects were subsequently saved.
+
+This brings us to the second instalment of the journals, for we have
+thus acknowledged the first to have reached us on Mr. Stanley's
+return.
+
+When the battered tin travelling-case, which was with Livingstone to
+the last, was opened at the Foreign Office in the spring of this year,
+not only were these valuable papers disclosed which I have mentioned,
+but it was found also that Livingstone had kept a copious journal
+during his stay at Unyanyembé in some copy-books, and that when his
+stock of note-books was replenished a daily record of his subsequent
+travels had been made.
+
+It was with fear and trembling that one looked to see whether all had
+been saved or only part, but with satisfaction and thankfulness I have
+subsequently discovered that his men preserved every single line,
+besides his maps, which now come to light for the first time.
+
+Thus much on the material of the diaries: it remains to say a few
+words on the Map which accompanies these journals. It has been
+compiled from Dr. Livingstone's original drawings and note-books, with
+the corrections and additions he made from time to time as the work of
+exploration progressed, and the details of physical geography became
+clearer to him. The compiler, Mr. John Bolton[1], implicitly
+following the original outline of the drawing as far as possible, has
+honestly endeavoured to give such a rendering of the entire work, as
+the Doctor would have done had he lived to return home, and
+superintend the construction; and I take this opportunity of
+expressing my sincere gratification that Mr. Bolton's rare technical
+skill, scientific knowledge, and unwearying labour have been available
+for the purpose.
+
+Amongst almost the last words that Livingstone wrote, I find an
+unfinished letter to myself, in which he gives me very clear and
+explicit directions concerning the geographical notes he had
+previously sent home, and I am but carrying out the sacred duty which
+is attached to a last wish when I call attention to the fact, that he
+particularly desired in this letter that _no positions gathered from
+his observations for latitude and longitude, nor for the levels of the
+Lakes, &c., should be considered correct till Sir Thomas Maclear had
+examined them_. The position of Casembe's town, and of a point near
+Pambetté at the S.E., and of Lake Liemba (Tanganyika), have been
+computed and corrected by Sir T. Maclear and Dr. Mann. The
+observations for latitude were taken at short intervals, and where it
+has been possible to test them they have been found very correct, but
+I repeat that until the imprimatur of his old friend at the Cape of
+Good Hope stands over the whole of Livingstone's work, the map must be
+accepted as open to further corrections.
+
+The journey from Kabwabwata to Mparru has been inserted _entirely_
+from notes, as the traveller was too ill to mark the route: this is
+the only instance in all his wanderings where he failed to give some
+indication on his map of the nature of the ground over which he
+passed. The journey front Mikindany Bay to Lake Nyassa has also been
+laid down from his journal and latitudes in consequence of the section
+of this part of his route (which he left at Ujiji) not having arrived
+in England at this date.[2] It will be observed that the outline of
+Lake Nyassa differs from that on any published map: it has been drawn
+from the original exploratory survey of its southern shores made by
+Dr. Livingstone in 1861-3. For some reason this original plan was not
+adhered to by a former draughtsman, but the Lake has here been
+restored to a more accurate bearing and position.
+
+How often shall we see in the pages of this concluding chapter of his
+life, that unwavering determination which was pre-eminently the great
+characteristic of David Livingstone!
+
+Naturally endowed with unusual endurance, able to concentrate
+faculties of no ordinary kind upon whatever he took in hand, and with
+a dread of exaggeration which at times almost militated against the
+importance of some of his greatest discoveries, it may be doubted if
+ever Geographer went forth strengthened with so much true power. Let
+us add to these a sincere trust that slavery, the "great open sore of
+the world," as he called it, might under God's good guidance receive
+healing at his hands; a fervent hope that others would follow him
+after he had removed those difficulties which are comprised in a
+profound ignorance of the physical features of a new country, and we
+have the marching orders of him who left us in August 1865 never to
+return alive.
+
+Privileged to enjoy his near personal friendship for a considerable
+period in Africa, and also at home, it has been easy to trace--more
+especially from correspondence with him of late years--that
+Livingstone wanted just some such gigantic problem as that which he
+attacked at the last to measure his strength against: that he finally
+overrated and overtaxed it I think all must admit.
+
+He had not sufficiently allowed for an old wound which his
+constitution received whilst battling with dysentery and fever, on his
+celebrated journey across Africa, and this finally sapped his vital
+powers, and, through the irritation of exhaustion, insidiously clouded
+much of his happiness.
+
+Many of his old friends were filled with anxiety when they found that
+he intended to continue the investigation of the Nile sources, for the
+letters sent home by Mr. Stanley raised the liveliest apprehensions,
+which, alas! soon proved themselves well grounded.
+
+The reader must be warned that, however versed in books of African
+travel he may be, the very novelty of his situation amongst these
+pages will render him liable perhaps to a danger which a timely word
+may avert. Truly it may be said he has an _embarras de richesses!_ To
+follow an explorer who by his individual exertions has filled up a
+great space in the map of Africa, who has not only been the first to
+set foot on the shores of vast inland seas, but who, with the simple
+appliances of his bodily stature for a sounding pole and his stalwart
+stride for a measuring tape, lays down new rivers by the hundreds, is
+a task calculated to stagger him. It may be provoking to find
+Livingstone busily engaged in bargaining for a canoe upon the shores
+of Bangweolo, much as he would have secured a boat on his own native
+Clyde; but it was not in his nature to be subject to those paroxysms
+in which travellers too often indite their discoveries and
+descriptions.
+
+At the same time these journals will be found to contain innumerable
+notes on the habits of animals, birds, and fishes, many of them
+probably new species, and on phenomena in every direction which the
+keen eye searched out as the great traveller moved amongst some of the
+grandest scenes of this beautiful world: it may be doubted if ever eye
+so keen was backed by so much perseverance to shield it from a mere
+superficial habit of noticing. Let his adventures speak for
+themselves.
+
+Amongst the greatest facts recorded here the Geographer will perceive
+that the Doctor has placed it beyond doubt that Lake Nyassa belongs to
+a totally distinct system of waters to that which holds Lake
+Tanganyika, and the rivers running north and west. He was too
+sagacious to venture the surmise that Tanganyika has a subterranean
+outlet without having duly weighed the probabilities in the scale with
+his elaborate observations: the idea gathers force when we remember
+that in the case of limestone cliffs, water so often succeeds in
+breaking bounds by boring through the solid rock. No more interesting
+problem is left to solve, and we shall yet learn whether, through the
+caverns of Western Kabogo, this Lake adds its waters to the vast
+northerly flow of rivers we now read of for the first time, and which
+are undoubtedly amongst the largest in the world.
+
+I cannot close these remarks without stating how much obliged I am to
+Mr. James Young, F.R.S., of Kelly, for having ensured the presence of
+the Doctor's men, Chuma and Susi. Ever ready to serve his old friend
+Livingstone, he took care that they should be at my elbow so long as I
+required them to help me amidst the pile of MSS. and maps. Their
+knowledge of the countries they travelled in is most remarkable, and
+from constantly aiding their master by putting questions to the
+natives respecting the course of rivers, &c., I found them actual
+geographers of no mean attainments. In one instance, when in doubt
+concerning a particular watershed, to my surprise Susi returned a few
+hours afterwards with a plan of the whole system of rivers in the
+region under examination, and I found his sketch tally well with the
+Doctor's map. Known to me previously for years on the Zambesi and
+Shiré it was a pleasure to have them with me for four months. Amongst
+other good services they have aided the artist by reproducing the
+exact facsimile of the hut in which Dr. Livingstone expired, besides
+making models of the "kitanda" on which he was carried, and of the
+village in which his body lay for fourteen days.
+
+I need not add what ready and valuable assistance I have derived from
+the Doctor's old companion Dr. Kirk wherever I have found it necessary
+to apply to him; some of the illustrations are more particularly owing
+to his kindness.
+
+It only remains to say that it has been thought advisable to retain
+all the strictly scientific matter found in Dr. Livingstone's journals
+for future publication. When one sees that a register of the daily
+rainfall was kept throughout, that the temperature was continually
+recorded, and that barometrical and hypsometrical observations were
+made with unflagging thoroughness of purpose year in and year out, it
+is obvious that an accumulated mass of information remains for the
+meteorologist to deal with separately, which alone must engross many
+months of labour.
+
+A constant sense of great responsibility has been mine throughout this
+task, for one cannot doubt that much of the future welfare of distant
+tribes and races depends upon Livingstone obtaining through these
+records a distinct hearing for their woes, their misery, and above all
+for their willingness to welcome men drawn towards them by motives
+like his.
+
+At the same time memory and affection have not failed to bring back
+vividly the man, the traveller, and the friend. May that which he has
+said in his journals suffer neither loss of interest nor depth of
+meaning at the compiler's hands.
+
+    HORACE WALLER.
+
+    TWYWELL RECTORY, THRAPSTON,
+    NORTHAMPTONSHIRE.
+    _Nov. 2, 1874._
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Attached to Mr. Stanford's staff.
+
+[2] In February last this section of the map (as we suppose), together
+with some of the Doctor's papers, was sent off from Ujiji by
+Lieutenant Cameron. Nothing, however, had arrived on the 22nd
+September at Zanzibar, and H.M. Consul, Captain Prideaux, entertained
+serious doubts at that time whether they would ever come to hand. All
+Livingstone's journals were saved through other instrumentality, as I
+have shown.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Arrival at Zanzibar. Hearty reception by Said Majid, the sultan.
+    Murder of Baron van der Decken. The slave-market. Preparations
+    for starting to the interior. Embarkation in H.M.S. _Penguin_
+    and dhow. Rovuma Bay impracticable. Disembarks at Mikindany. Joy
+    at travelling once more. Trouble with sepoys. Camels attacked by
+    tsetse fly, and by sepoys. Jungle sappers. Meets old enemies.
+    The Makondé. Lake Nangandi. Gum-copal diggings.
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Effect of _Pioneer's_ former visit. The poodle Chitané. Result
+    of tsetse bites. Death of camels and buffaloes. Disaffection of
+    followers. Disputed right of ferry. Mazitu raids. An old friend.
+    Severe privations. The River Loendi. Sepoys mutiny. Dr. Roscher.
+    Desolation. Tattooing. Ornamental teeth. Singular custom. Death
+    of the Nassick boy, Richard. A sad reminiscence.
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Horrors of the slave-trader's track. System of cultivation.
+    Pottery. Special exorcising. Death of the last mule. Rescue of
+    Chirikaloma's wife. Brutalities of the slave-drivers. Mtarika's.
+    Desperate march to Mtaka's. Meets Arab caravans. Dismay of
+    slavers. Dismissal of sepoys. Mataka. The Waiyau metropolis.
+    Great hospitality and good feeling. Mataka restores stolen
+    cattle. Life with the chief. Beauty of country and healthiness
+    of climate. The Waiyau people and their peculiarities. Regrets
+    at the abandonment of Bishop Mackenzie's plans.
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Geology and description of the Waiyau land. Leaves Mataka's. The
+    Nyumbo plant. Native iron-foundry. Blacksmiths. Makes for the
+    Lake Nyassa. Delight at seeing the Lake once more. The Manganja
+    or Nyassa tribe. Arab slave crossing. Unable to procure passage
+    across. The Kungu fly. Fear of the English amongst slavers. Lake
+    shore. Blue ink. Chitané changes colour. The Nsaka fish.
+    Makalaosé drinks beer. The Sanjika fish. London antiquities.
+    Lake rivers. Mukaté's. Lake Pamalombé. Mponda's. A slave gang.
+    Wikatani discovers his relatives and remains.
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    Crosses Cape Maclear. The havildar demoralised. The discomfited
+    chief. Reaches Marenga's town. The earth-sponge. Description of
+    Marenga's town. Rumours of Mazitu. Musa and the Johanna men
+    desert. Reaches Kimsusa's. His delight at seeing the Doctor once
+    more. The fat ram. Kimsusa relates his experience of
+    Livingstone's advice. Chuma finds relatives. Kimsusa solves the
+    transport difficulty nobly. Another old fishing acquaintance.
+    Description of the people and country on the west of the Lake.
+    The Kanthundas. Kauma. Iron-smelting. An African Sir Colin
+    Campbell. Milandos.
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Progress northwards. An African forest. Destruction by Mazitu.
+    Native salutations. A disagreeable chief. On the watershed
+    between the Lake and the Loangwa River. Extensive iron-workings.
+    An old Nimrod. The Bua River. Lovely scenery. Difficulties of
+    transport. Chilobé. An African Pythoness. Enlists two Waiyou
+    bearers. Ill. The Chitella bean. Rains set in. Arrives at the
+    Loangwa.
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Crosses the Loangwa. Distressing march. The king-hunter. Great
+    hunger. Christmas feast necessarily postponed. Loss of goats.
+    Honey-hunters. A meal at last. The Babisa. The Mazitu again.
+    Chitembo's. End of 1866. The new year. The northern brim of the
+    great Loangwa Valley. Accident to chronometers. Meal gives out.
+    Escape from a Cobra capella. Pushes for the Chambezé. Death of
+    Chitané. Great pinch for food. Disastrous loss of medicine
+    chest. Bead currency. Babisa. The Chambezé. Reaches
+    Chitapangwa's town. Meets Arab traders from Zanzibar. Sends off
+    letters. Chitapangwa and his people. Complications.
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Chitapangwa's parting oath. Course laid for Lake Tanganyika.
+    Moamba's village. Another watershed. The Babemba tribe. Ill with
+    fever. Threatening attitude of Chibué's people. Continued
+    illness. Reaches cliffs overhanging Lake Liemba. Extreme beauty
+    of the scene. Dangerous fit of insensibility. Leaves the Lake.
+    Pernambuco cotton. Rumours of war between Arabs and Nsama.
+    Reaches Chitimba's village. Presents Sultan's letter to
+    principal Arab, Hamees. The war in Itawa. Geography of the
+    Arabs. Ivory traders and slave-dealers. Appeal to the Koran.
+    Gleans intelligence of the Wasongo, to the eastward, and their
+    chief, Meréré. Hamees sets out against Nsama. Tedious sojourn.
+    Departure for Ponda. Native cupping.
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Peace negotiations with Nsama. Geographical gleanings. Curious
+    spider. Reaches the River Lofu. Arrives at Nsama's. Hamees
+    marries the daughter of Nsama. Flight of the bride.
+    Conflagration in Arab quarters. Anxious to visit Lake Moero.
+    Arab burial. Serious illness. Continues journey. Slave-traders
+    on the march. Reaches Moero. Description of the Lake.
+    Information concerning the Chambezé and Luapula. Hears of Lake
+    Bemba. Visits spot of Dr. Lacerda's death. Casembe apprised of
+    Livingstone's approach. Meets Mohamad Bogharib. Lakelet Mofwé.
+    Arrives at Casembe's town.
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Grand reception of the traveller. Casembe and his wife. Long
+    stay in the town. Goes to explore Moero. Despatch to Lord
+    Clarendon, with notes on recent travels. Illness at the end of
+    1867. Further exploration of Lake Moero. Flooded plains. The
+    River Luao. Visits Kabwabwata. Joy of Arabs at Mohamad bin
+    Salleh's freedom. Again ill with fever. Stories of underground
+    dwellings.
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+    Riot in the camp. Mohamad's account of his long imprisonment.
+    Superstitions about children's teeth. Concerning dreams. News of
+    Lake Chowambé. Life of the Arab slavers. The Katanga gold
+    supply. Muabo. Ascent of the Rua Mountains. Syde bin Habib.
+    Birthday, 19th March, 1868. Hostility of Mpwéto. Contemplates
+    visiting Lake Bemba. Nile sources. Men desert. The shores of
+    Moero. Visits Fungafunga. Return to Casembe's. Obstructiveness
+    of "Cropped-ears." Accounts of Pereira and Dr. Lacerda. Major
+    Monteiro. The line of Casembes. Casembe explains the connection
+    of the Lakes and the Luapula. Queen Moäri. Arab sacrifice.
+    Kapika gets rid of his wife.
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Prepares to examine Lake Bemba. Starts from Casembe's 11th June,
+    1868. Dead leopard. Moenampanda's reception. The River Luongo.
+    Weird death-song of slaves. The forest grave. Lake Bemba changed
+    to Lake Bangweolo. Chikumbi's. The Imbozhwa people. Kombokombo's
+    stockade. Mazitu difficulties. Discovers Lake Bangweolo on 18th
+    July, 1868. The Lake Chief Mapuni. Description of the Lake.
+    Prepares to navigate it. Embarks for Lifungé Island. Immense
+    size of Lake. Reaches Mpabala Island. Strange dream. Fears of
+    canoe men. Return to shore. March back. Sends letters. Meets
+    Banyamwezi. Reviews recent explorations at length. Disturbed
+    state of country.
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    Cataracts of the Kalongosi. Passage of the river disputed.
+    Leeches and method of detaching them. Syde bin Habib's slaves
+    escape. Enormous collection of tusks. Ill. Theory of the Nile
+    sources. Tribute to Miss Tinné. Notes on climate. Separation of
+    Lake Nyassa from the Nile system. Observations on Victoria
+    Nyanza. Slaves dying. Repentant deserters. Mohamad Bogharib.
+    Enraged Imbozhwa. An attack. Narrow escape. Renewed attack. A
+    parley. Help arrives. Bin Juma. March from the Imbozhwa country.
+    Slaves escape. Burial of Syde bin Habib's brother. Singular
+    custom. An elephant killed. Native game-laws. Rumour of Baker's
+    Expedition. Christmas dinners.
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+    [DR. LIVINGSTONE, though no artist, had acquired a practice of
+    making rude sketches of scenes and objects, which have furnished
+    material for the Engravers in the Illustrations for this book.]
+
+Full-page Illustrations.
+
+    1. PORTRAIT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE. (From a Photograph by ANNAN)
+    2. SLAVERS REVENGING THEIR LOSSES
+    3. SLAVES ABANDONED
+    4. CHITAPANGWA RECEIVING DR. LIVINGSTONE
+    5. THE VILLAGE ON LAKE LIEMBA--TANGANYIKA
+    6. THE ARRIVAL OF HAMEES' BRIDE
+    7. DISCOVERY OF LAKE BANGWEOLO
+
+Smaller Illustrations.
+
+     1. DR. LIVINGSTONE'S HOUSE, ZANZIBAR
+     2. DHOW USED FOR TRANSPORT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S CAMELS
+     3. A THORN-CLIMBER
+     4. TOMAHAWK AND AXE
+     5. CARVED DOOR, ZANZIBAR
+     6. TATTOO OF MATAMBWÉ
+     7. IMITATION OF BASKET-WORK IN POTTERY
+     8. DIGGING-STICK WEIGHTED WITH ROUND STONE
+     9. MANGANJA AND MACHINGA WOMEN
+    10. TATOO ON WOMEN
+    11. CARVED STOOL MADE OF A SINGLE WOODEN BLOCK
+    12. WOMEN'S TEETH HOLLOWED OUT
+    13. MODE OF FORGING HOES
+    14. MALLET FOR SEPARATING FIBRES OF BARK
+    15. THE CHIEF CHITAPANGWA
+    16. CHITAPANGWA'S WIVES
+    17. FILED TEETH OF QUEEN MOÄH
+    18. A FOREST GRAVE
+
+GENERAL MAP OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S OWN DISCOVERIES
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Arrival at Zanzibar. Hearty reception by Said Majid, the Sultan.
+    Murder of Baron van der Decken. The slave-market. Preparations
+    for starting to the interior. Embarkation in H.M.S. _Penguin_
+    and dhow. Rovuma Bay impracticable. Disembarks at Mikindany. Joy
+    at travelling once more. Trouble with sepoys. Camels attacked by
+    tsetse fly, and by sepoys. Jungle sappers. Meets old enemies.
+    The Makondé. Lake Nangandi. Gum-copal diggings.
+
+
+ZANZIBAR, _28th January, 1866._--After a passage of twenty-three days
+from Bombay we arrived at this island in the _Thule_, which was one of
+Captain Sherard Osborne's late Chinese fleet, and now a present from
+the Bombay Government to the Sultan of Zanzibar. I was honoured with
+the commission to make the formal presentation, and this was intended
+by H.E. the Governor-in-Council to show in how much estimation I was
+held, and thereby induce the Sultan to forward my enterprise. The
+letter to his Highness was a commendatory epistle in my favour, for
+which consideration on the part of Sir Bartle Frere I feel deeply
+grateful. It runs as follows:--
+
+    TO HIS HIGHNESS SEJUEL MAJID, SULTAN OF ZANZIBAR.
+
+    (_Copy._)
+
+    "YOUR HIGHNESS,--I trust that this will find you in the
+    enjoyment of health and happiness.
+
+    "I have requested my friend, Dr. David Livingstone, who is
+    already personally well and favourably known to your Highness,
+    to convey to you the assurance of the continual friendship and
+    goodwill of Her Majesty's Government in India.
+
+    "Your Highness is already aware of the benevolent objects of Dr.
+    Livingstone's life and labours, and I feel assured that your
+    Highness will continue to him the favour and protection which
+    you have already shown to him on former occasions, and that your
+    Highness will direct every aid to be given him within your
+    Highness's dominions which may tend to further the philanthropic
+    designs to which he has devoted himself, and which, as your
+    Highness is aware, are viewed with the warmest interest by Her
+    Majesty's Government both in India and England.
+
+    "I trust your Highness will favour me with continued accounts of
+    your good health and welfare.
+
+    "I remain, your Highness's sincere friend,
+
+    (Signed) "H.B.E. FRERE.
+
+    "BOMBAY CASTLE, _2nd January, 1866._"
+
+When we arrived Dr. Seward, the Acting Consul, was absent at the
+Seychelles on account of serious failure of health: Mr. Schultz,
+however, was representing him, but he too was at the time away. Dr.
+Seward was expected back daily, and he did arrive on the 31st. I
+requested a private interview with the Sultan, and on the following
+day (29th) called and told him the nature of my commission to his
+Highness. He was very gracious, and seemed pleased with the gift, as
+well he might, for the _Thule_ is fitted up in the most gorgeous
+manner. We asked a few days to put her in perfect order, and this
+being the Ramadân, or fasting month, he was all the more willing to
+defer a visit to the vessel.
+
+Dr. Seward arranged to have an audience with the Sultan, to carry out
+his instructions, which were to present me in a formal manner; Captain
+Bradshaw of the _Wasp_, with Captain Leatham of the _Vigilant_, and
+Bishop Tozer, were to accompany us in full dress, but the Sultan had a
+toothache and gumboil, and could not receive us; he, however, placed
+one of his houses at my disposal, and appointed a man who speaks
+English to furnish board for my men and me, and also for Captain
+Brebner, of the _Thule_, and his men.
+
+[Illustration: Livingstone's House, Zanzibar.]
+
+_6th February, 1866._--The Sultan being still unable to come, partly
+on account of toothache and partly on account of Ramadân, he sent his
+commodore, Captain Abdullah, to receive the _Thule_. When the English
+flag was hauled down in the _Thule_, it went up to the mainmast of the
+_Iskander Shah_, and was saluted by twenty-one guns; then the _Wasp_
+saluted the Arab flag with an equal number, which honour being duly
+acknowledged by a second royal salute from the _Iskander Shah_,
+Captain Abdullah's frigate, the ceremony ended.
+
+Next day, the 7th, we were received by the Sultan, and through his
+interpreter, I told him that his friend, the Governor of Bombay, had
+lately visited the South Mahratta Princes, and had pressed on them the
+necessity of education; the world was moving on, and those who
+neglected to acquire knowledge would soon find that power slipped
+through their fingers, and that the Bombay Government, in presenting
+his Highness with a portion of steam power, showed its desire to
+impart one of the greatest improvements of modern times, not desiring
+to monopolize power, but hoping to lift up others with themselves, and
+I wished him to live a hundred years and enjoy all happiness. The idea
+was borrowed partly from Sir Bartle Frere's addresses, because I
+thought it would have more weight if he heard a little from that
+source than if it emanated from myself. He was very anxious that
+Captain Brebner and his men, in returning to India, should take a
+passage from him in the _Nadir Shah_, one of his men-of-war, and
+though he had already placed his things aboard the _Vigilant_, to
+proceed to Seychelles, and thence to Bombay, we persuaded Captain
+Brebner to accept his Highness's hospitality. He had evidently set his
+heart on sending them back with suitable honours, and an hour after
+consent was given to go by the _Nadir Shah_, he signed an order for
+the money to fit her out.
+
+_11th February, 1866._--One of the foremost subjects that naturally
+occupied my mind here was the sad loss of the Baron van der Decken, on
+the River Juba, or Aljib. The first intimation of the unfortunate
+termination of his explorations was the appearance of Lieutenant von
+Schich at this place, who had left without knowing whether his leader
+were dead or alive, but an attack had been made on the encampment
+which had been planned after the steamer struck the rocks and filled,
+and two of the Europeans were killed. The attacking party came from
+the direction in which the Baron and Dr. Link went, and three men of
+note in it were slain. Von Schich went back from Zanzibar to Brava to
+ascertain the fate of the Baron, and meanwhile several native sailors
+from Zanzibar had been allowed to escape from the scene of confusion
+to Brava.
+
+_18th February, 1866._--All the Europeans went to pay visits of
+congratulation to his Highness the Sultan upon the conclusion of the
+Ramadân, when sweetmeats were placed before us. He desired me to thank
+the Governor of Bombay for his magnificent gift, and to state that
+although he would like to have me always with him, yet he would show
+me the same favour in Africa which he had done here: he added that the
+_Thule_ was at my service to take me to the Rovuma whenever I wished
+to leave. I replied that nothing had been wanting on his part; he had
+done more than I expected, and I was sure that his Excellency the
+Governor would be delighted to hear that the vessel promoted his
+health and prosperity; nothing would delight him more than this. He
+said that he meant to go out in her on Wednesday next (20th): Bishop
+Tozer, Captain Fraser, Dr. Steere, and all the English were present.
+The sepoys came in and did obeisance; and I pointed out the Nassick
+lads as those who had been rescued from slavery, educated, and sent
+back to their own country by the Governor. Surely he must see that
+some people in the world act from other than selfish motives.
+
+In the afternoon Sheikh Sulieman, his secretary, came with a letter
+for the Governor, to be conveyed by Lieutenant Brebner, I.N., in the
+_Nadir Shah_, which is to sail to-morrow. He offered money to the
+lieutenant, but this could not be heard of for a moment.
+
+The translation of the letter is as follows, and is an answer to that
+which I brought.
+
+    TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE GOVERNOR OF BOMBAY.
+
+    [After compliments.]
+
+
+    "... The end of my desire is to know ever that your
+    Excellency's health is good. As for me--your friend--I am very
+    well.
+
+    "Your honoured letter borne by Dr. Livingstone duly reached me,
+    and all that you said about him I understood.
+
+    "I will show him respect, give him honour, and help him in all
+    his affairs; and that I have already done this, I trust he will
+    tell you.
+
+    "I hope you will let me rest in your heart, and that you will
+    send me many letters.
+
+    "If you need anything I shall be glad, and will give it.
+
+    "Your sincere friend,
+
+    "MAJID BIN SAID.
+
+    "Dated 2nd Shaul, 1282 (18th February, 1866)."
+
+_2nd March, 1866._--A northern dhow came in with slaves; when this was
+reported to the Sultan he ordered it to be burned, and we saw this
+done from the window of the Consulate; but he has very little power
+over Northern Arabs. He has shown a little vigour of late. He wished
+to raise a revenue by a charge of 10 per cent. on all articles brought
+into town for sale, but this is clearly contrary to treaty, which
+provides that no monopoly shall be permitted, and no dues save that of
+5 per cent. import duty. The French Consul bullies him: indeed the
+French system of dealing with the natives is well expressed by that
+word; no wonder they cannot gain influence among them: the greatest
+power they exercise is by lending their flag to slaving dhows, so that
+it covers that nefarious traffic.
+
+The stench arising from a mile and a half or two square miles of
+exposed sea beach, which is the general depository of the filth of the
+town, is quite horrible. At night it is so gross or crass one might
+cut out a slice and manure a garden with it: it might be called
+Stinkibar rather than Zanzibar. No one can long enjoy good health
+here.
+
+On visiting the slave-market I found about 300 slaves exposed for
+sale, the greater part of whom came from Lake Nyassa and the Shiré
+River; I am so familiar with the peculiar faces and markings or
+tattooings, that I expect them to recognize me. Indeed one woman said
+that she had heard of our passing up Lake Nyassa in a boat, but she
+did not see me: others came from Chipéta, S.W. of the Lake. All who
+have grown up seem ashamed at being hawked about for sale. The teeth
+are examined, the cloth lifted up to examine the lower limbs, and a
+stick is thrown for the slave to bring, and thus exhibit his paces.
+Some are dragged through the crowd by the hand, and the price called
+out incessantly: most of the purchasers were Northern Arabs and
+Persians. This is the period when the Sultan's people may not carry
+slaves coastwise; but they simply cannot, for the wind is against
+them. Many of the dhows leave for Madagascar, and thence come back to
+complete their cargoes.
+
+The Arabs are said to treat their slaves kindly, and this also may be
+said of native masters; the reason is, master and slave partake of the
+general indolence, but the lot of the slave does not improve with the
+general progress in civilization. While no great disparity of rank
+exists, his energies are little tasked, but when society advances,
+wants multiply; and to supply these the slave's lot grows harder. The
+distance between master and man increases as the lust of gain is
+developed, hence we can hope for no improvement in the slave's
+condition, unless the master returns to or remains in barbarism.
+
+_6th March, 1866._--Rains have begun now that the sun is overhead. We
+expect the _Penguin_ daily to come from Johanna, and take us to the
+Rovuma. It is an unwholesome place; six of my men have fever; few
+retain health long, and considering the lowness of the island, and the
+absence of sanitary regulations in the town, it is not to be wondered
+at. The Sultan has little power, being only the successor to the
+captain of the horde of Arabs who came down and overran the island and
+maritime coasts of the adjacent continent. He is called only Said or
+Syed, never Sultan; and they can boast of choosing a new one if he
+does not suit them. Some coins were found in digging here which have
+Cufic inscriptions, and are about 900 years old. The island is low;
+the highest parts may not be more than 150 feet above the sea; it is
+of a coral formation, with sandstone conglomerate. Most of the plants
+are African, but clove-trees, mangoes, and cocoa-nut groves give a
+luxuriant South Sea Island look to the whole scenery.
+
+We visited an old man to-day, the richest in Zanzibar, who is to give
+me letters to his friends at Tanganyika, and I am trying to get a
+depôt of goods for provisions formed there, so that when I reach it I
+may not be destitute.
+
+_18th March, 1866._--I have arranged with Koorje, a Banian, who farms
+the custom-house revenue here, to send a supply of beads, cloth,
+flour, tea, coffee, and sugar, to Ujiji, on Lake Tanganyika. The Arab
+there, with whom one of Koorje's people will remain in charge of the
+goods, is called Thani bin Suelim.
+
+Yesterday we went to take leave of the Sultan, and to thank him for
+all his kindness to me and my men, which has indeed been very great.
+He offered me men to go with me, and another letter if I wished it. He
+looks very ill.
+
+I have received very great kindness during my stay from Dr. and Mrs.
+Seward. They have done everything for me in their power: may God
+Almighty return it all abundantly into their bosoms, in the way that
+He best can. Dr. Seward's views of the policy pursued here I have no
+doubt are the right ones; in fact, the only ones which can be looked
+back to with satisfaction, or that have probability of success among a
+race of Pariah Arabs.
+
+The _Penguin_ came a few days ago, and Lieutenant Garforth in command
+agrees to take me down to the Rovuma River, and land me there. I have
+a dhow to take my animals: six camels, three buffaloes, and a calf,
+two mules, and four donkeys. I have thirteen Sepoys, ten Johanna men,
+nine Nassick boys, two Shupanga men, and two Wayaus, Wekatani and
+Chuma.[3]
+
+[It may be well to point out that several of these men had previously
+been employed by Dr. Livingstone on the Zambesi and Shiré; thus Musa,
+the Johanna man, was a sailor on the _Lady Nyassa_, whilst Susi and
+Amoda were engaged at Shupanga to cut wood for the _Pioneer_. The two
+Waiyau lads, Wakatani and Chuma, were liberated from the slavers by
+the Doctor and Bishop Mackenzie in 1861, and lived for three years
+with the Mission party at Chibisa's before they were engaged by
+Livingstone. The Nassick lads were entire strangers, and were trained
+in India.]
+
+_19th March, 1866._--We start this morning at 10 A.M. I trust that the
+Most High may prosper me in this work, granting me influence in the
+eyes of the heathen, and helping me to make my intercourse beneficial
+to them.
+
+_22nd March, 1866._--We reached Rovuma Bay to-day, and anchored about
+two miles from the mouth of the river, in five fathoms. I went up the
+left bank to see if the gullies which formerly ran into the bay had
+altered, so as to allow camels to cross them: they seemed to have
+become shallower. There was no wind for the dhow, and as for the
+man-of-war towing her, it was out of the question. On the 23rd the
+cutter did try to tow the dhow, but without success, as a strong tide
+runs constantly out of the river at this season. A squall came up from
+the S.E., which would have taken the dhow in, but the master was on
+board the _Penguin_, and said he had no large sail. I got him off to
+his vessel, but the wind died away before we could reach the mouth of
+the river.
+
+_24th March, 1866._--I went to the dhow, and there being no wind I
+left orders with the captain to go up the right bank should a breeze
+arise. Mr. Fane, midshipman, accompanied me up the left bank above, to
+see if we could lead the camels along in the water. Near the point
+where the river first makes a little bend to the north, we landed and
+found three formidable gullies, and jungle so thick with bush,
+date-palms, twining bamboo, and hooked thorns, that one could scarcely
+get along. Further inland it was sticky mud, thickly planted over with
+mangrove roots and gullies in whose soft banks one sank over the
+ankles. No camels could have moved, and men with extreme difficulty
+might struggle through; but we never could have made an available
+road. We came to a she-hippopotamus lying in a ditch, which did not
+cover her; Mr. Fane fired into her head, and she was so upset that she
+nearly fell backward in plunging up the opposite bank: her calf was
+killed, and was like sucking-pig, though in appearance as large as a
+full-grown sow.
+
+We now saw that the dhow had a good breeze, and she came up along the
+right bank and grounded at least a mile from the spot where the
+mangroves ceased. The hills, about two hundred feet high, begin about
+two or three miles above that, and they looked invitingly green and
+cool. My companion and I went from the dhow inland, to see if the
+mangroves gave way, to a more walkable country, but the swamp covered
+over thickly with mangroves only became worse the farther we receded
+from the river. The whole is flooded at high tides, and had we landed
+all the men we should have been laid up with fever ere we could have
+attained the higher land, which on the right bank bounds the line of
+vision, and the first part of which lies so near. I thought I had
+better land on the sand belt on the left of Rovuma Bay, and then
+explore and get information from the natives, none of whom had as yet
+come near us, so I ordered the dhow to come down to the spot next day,
+and went on board the _Penguin_. Lieutenant Garforth was excessively
+kind, and though this is his best time for cruising in the North, he
+most patiently agreed to wait and help me to land.
+
+_24th March, 1866._--During the night it occurred to me that we should
+be in a mess if after exploration and information from the natives we
+could find no path, and when I mentioned this, Lieutenant Garforth
+suggested that we should proceed to Kilwa, so at 5 A.M. I went up to
+the dhow with Mr. Fane, and told the captain that we were going there.
+He was loud in his protestations against this, and strongly
+recommended the port of Mikindany, as quite near to Rovuma, Nyassa,
+and the country I wished to visit, besides being a good landing-place,
+and the finest port on the coast. Thither we went, and on the same
+evening landed all our animals in Mikindany bay, which lies only
+twenty-five miles N. of Rovuma. The _Penguin_ then left.
+
+The Rovuma is quite altered from what it was when first we visited it.
+It is probable that the freshets form banks inside the mouth, which
+are washed out into the deep bay, and this periodical formation
+probably has prevented the Arabs from using the Rovuma as a port of
+shipment. It is not likely that Mr. May[4] would have made a mistake
+if the middle were as shoal as now: he found soundings of three
+fathoms or more.
+
+[Illustration: Dhow used for Transport of Dr. Livingstone's Camels.]
+
+_25th March, 1866._--I hired a house for four dollars a month and
+landed all our goods from the dhow. The bay gives off a narrow
+channel, about 500 yards wide and 200 yards long, the middle is deep,
+but the sides are coral reefs and shoal: the deep part seems about 100
+yards wide. Outside in the Bay of Mikindany there is no anchorage
+except on the edge of the reef where the _Penguin_ got seven fathoms,
+but further in it was only two fathoms. The inner bay is called Pemba,
+not Pimlea, as erroneously printed in the charts of Owen. It is deep
+and quite sheltered; another of a similar round form lies somewhat to
+the south: this bay may be two miles square.
+
+The cattle are all very much the worse for being knocked about in the
+dhow. We began to prepare saddles of a very strong tree called Ntibwé,
+which is also used for making the hooked spear with which hippopotami
+are killed--the hook is very strong and tough; I applied also for
+twenty carriers and a Banian engaged to get them as soon as possible.
+The people have no cattle here, they are half-caste Arabs mostly, and
+quite civil to us.
+
+_26th March, 1866._--A few of the Nassick boys have the slave spirit
+pretty strongly; it goes deepest in those who have the darkest skins.
+Two Gallah men are the most intelligent and hardworking among them;
+some look on work with indifference when others are the actors.
+
+Now that I am on the point of starting on another trip into Africa I
+feel quite exhilarated: when one travels with the specific object in
+view of ameliorating the condition of the natives every act becomes
+ennobled.
+
+Whether exchanging the customary civilities, or arriving at a village,
+accepting a night's lodging, purchasing food for the party, asking for
+information, or answering polite African enquiries as to our objects
+in travelling, we begin to spread a knowledge of that people by whose
+agency their land will yet become enlightened and freed from the
+slave-trade.
+
+The mere animal pleasure of travelling in a wild unexplored country is
+very great. When on lands of a couple of thousand feet elevation,
+brisk exercise imparts elasticity to the muscles, fresh and healthy
+blood circulates through the brain, the mind works well, the eye is
+clear, the step is firm, and a day's exertion always makes the
+evening's repose thoroughly enjoyable.
+
+We have usually the stimulus of remote chances of danger either from
+beasts or men. Our sympathies are drawn out towards our humble hardy
+companions by a community of interests, and, it may be, of perils,
+which make us all friends. Nothing but the most pitiable puerility
+would lead any manly heart to make their inferiority a theme for
+self-exaltation; however, that is often done, as if with the vague
+idea that we can, by magnifying their deficiencies, demonstrate our
+immaculate perfections.
+
+The effect of travel on a man whose heart is in the right place is
+that the mind is made more self-reliant: it becomes more confident of
+its own resources--there is greater presence of mind. The body is soon
+well-knit; the muscles of the limbs grow as hard as a board, and seem
+to have no fat; the countenance is bronzed, and there is no dyspepsia.
+Africa is a most wonderful country for appetite, and it is only when
+one gloats over marrow bones or elephant's feet that indigestion is
+possible. No doubt much toil is involved, and fatigue of which
+travellers in the more temperate climes can form but a faint
+conception; but the sweat of one's brow is no longer a curse when one
+works for God: it proves a tonic to the system, and is actually a
+blessing. No one can truly appreciate the charm of repose unless he
+has undergone severe exertion.
+
+_27th March, 1866._--The point of land which on the north side of the
+entrance to the harbour narrows it to about 300 yards is alone called
+Pemba; the other parts have different names. Looking northwards from
+the point, the first hundred yards has ninety square houses of wattled
+daub; a ruin (a mosque) has been built of lime and coral. The whole
+point is coral, and the soil is red, and covered over with dense
+tropical vegetation, in which the baobab is conspicuous. Dhows at
+present come in with ease by the easterly wind which blows in the
+evening, and leave next morning, the land wind taking them out.
+
+While the camels and other animals are getting over their fatigues
+and bad bruises, we are making camels' saddles, and repairing those of
+the mules and buffaloes. Oysters abound on all the rocks and on the
+trees over which the tide flows: they are small, but much relished by
+the people.
+
+The Arabs here are a wretched lot physically--thin, washed-out
+creatures--many with bleared eyes.
+
+_29-30th March, 1866._--- This harbour has somewhat the shape of a
+bent bow or the spade on a playing-card, the shaft of the arrow being
+the entrance in; the passage is very deep, but not more than 100 yards
+wide, and it goes in nearly S.W.; inside it is deep and quite secure,
+and protected from all winds. The lands westward rise at once to about
+200 feet, and John, a hill, is the landmark by which it is best known
+in coming along the coast--so say the Arabs. The people have no
+cattle, but say there are no tsetse flies: they have not been
+long here, _i.e._ under the present system; but a ruin on the
+northern peninsula or face of the entrance, built of stone and
+lime--Arab-fashion, and others on the north-west, show that the place
+has been known and used of old. The adjacent country has large game at
+different water pools, and as the whole country is somewhat elevated
+it probably is healthy. There is very little mangrove, but another
+enclosed piece of water to the south of this probably has more. The
+language of the people here is Swaheli; they trade a little in
+gum-copal and Orchilla weed. An agent of the Zanzibar custom-house
+presides over the customs, which are very small, and a jemidar
+acknowledging the Sultan is the chief authority; but the people are
+little superior to the natives whom they have displaced. The jemidar
+has been very civil to me, and gives me two guides to go on to Adondé,
+but no carriers can be hired. Water is found in wells in the coral
+rock which underlies the whole place.
+
+_4th April, 1866._--When about to start from Pemba, at the entrance to
+the other side of the bay one of our buffaloes gored a donkey so
+badly that he had to be shot: we cut off the tips of the offender's
+horns, on the principle of "locking the stable-door when the steed is
+stolen," and marched. We came to level spots devoid of vegetation, and
+hard on the surface, but a deposit of water below allowed the camels
+to sink up to their bodies through the crust. Hauling them out, we got
+along to the jemidar's house, which is built of coral and lime. Hamesh
+was profuse in his professions of desire to serve, but gave a shabby
+hut which let in rain and wind. I slept one night in it, and it was
+unbearable, so I asked the jemidar to allow me to sleep in his
+court-room, where many of the sepoys were: he consented, but when I
+went refused; then, being an excitable, nervous Arab, he took fright,
+mustered all his men, amounting to about fifteen, with matchlocks; ran
+off, saying he was going to kill a lion; came back, shook hands
+nervously with me, vowing it was a man who would not obey him, "it was
+not you."
+
+Our goods were all out in the street, bound on the pack-saddles, so at
+night we took the ordinary precaution of setting a guard. This excited
+our dignitary, and after dark all his men were again mustered with
+matches lighted. I took no notice of him, and after he had spent a
+good deal of talk, which we could hear, he called Musa and asked what
+I meant. The explanations of Musa had the effect of sending him to
+bed, and in the morning, when I learned how much I had most
+unintentionally disturbed him, I told him that I was sorry, but it did
+not occur to me to tell him about an ordinary precaution against
+thieves. He thought he had given me a crushing reply when he said with
+vehemence, "But there are no thieves here." I did not know till
+afterwards that he and others had done me an ill turn in saying that
+no carriers could be hired from the independent tribes adjacent. They
+are low-coast Arabs, three-quarters African, and, as usual, possess
+the bad without the good qualities of both parents. Many of them came
+and begged brandy, and laughed when they remarked that they could
+drink it in secret but not openly; they have not, however, introduced
+it as an article of trade, as we Christians have done on the West
+Coast.
+
+_6th April, 1866._--We made a short march round to the south-west side
+of the Lake, and spent the night at a village in that direction. There
+are six villages dotted round the inner harbour, and the population
+may amount to 250 or 300 souls--coast Arabs and their slaves; the
+southern portion of the harbour is deep, from ten to fourteen fathoms,
+but the north-western part is shoal and rocky. Very little is done in
+the way of trade; some sorghum, sem-sem seed, gum-copal, and orchilla
+weed, constitute the commerce of the port: I saw two Banian traders
+settled here.
+
+_7th April, 1866._--Went about south from Kindany with a Somalie
+guide, named Ben Ali or Bon Ali, a good-looking obliging man, who was
+to get twenty dollars to take us up to Ngomano. Our path lay in a
+valley, with well-wooded heights on each side, but the grass towered
+over our heads, and gave the sensation of smothering, whilst the sun
+beat down on our heads very fiercely, and there was not a breath of
+air stirring. Not understanding camels, I had to trust to the sepoys
+who overloaded them, and before we had accomplished our march of about
+seven miles they were knocked up.
+
+_8th April, 1866._--We spent the Sunday at a village called Nyańgedi.
+Here on the evening of the 7th April our buffaloes and camels were
+first bitten by the tsetse fly.[5] We had passed through some pieces
+of dense jungle which, though they offered no obstruction to
+foot-passengers, but rather an agreeable shade, had to be cut for the
+tall camels, and fortunately we found the Makondé of this village
+glad to engage themselves by the day either as woodcutters or
+carriers. We had left many things with the jemidar from an idea that
+no carriers could be procured. I lightened the camels, and had a party
+of woodcutters to heighten and widen the path in the dense jungle into
+which we now penetrated. Every now and then we emerged on open spaces,
+where the Makondé have cleared gardens for sorghum, maize, and
+cassava. The people were very much more taken up with the camels and
+buffaloes than with me. They are all independent of each other, and no
+paramount chief exists. Their foreheads may be called compact, narrow,
+and rather low; the _alae nasi_ expanded laterally; lips full, not
+excessively thick; limbs and body well formed; hands and feet small;
+colour dark and light-brown; height middle size, and bearing
+independent.
+
+_10th April, 1866._--We reached a village called Narri, lat. 10° 23'
+14" S. Many of the men had touches of fever. I gave medicine to eleven
+of them, and next morning all were better. Food is abundant and cheap.
+Our course is nearly south, and in "wadys," from which, following the
+trade-road, we often ascend the heights, and then from the villages,
+which are on the higher land, we descend to another on the same wady.
+No running water is seen; the people depend on wells for a supply.
+
+_11th April, 1866._--At Tandahara we were still ascending as we went
+south; the soil is very fertile, with a good admixture of sand in it,
+but no rocks are visible. Very heavy crops of maize and sorghum are
+raised, and the cassava bushes are seven feet in height. The bamboos
+are cleared off them, spread over the space to be cultivated and
+burned to serve as manure. Iron is very scarce, for many of the men
+appear with wooden spears; they find none here, but in some spots
+where an ooze issued from the soil iron rust appeared. At each of the
+villages where we spent a night we presented a fathom of calico, and
+the headman always gave a fowl or two, and a basket of rice or maize.
+The Makondé dialect is quite different from Swaheli, but from their
+intercourse with the coast Arabs many of the people here have acquired
+a knowledge of Swaheli.
+
+[Illustration: A Thorn-climber.]
+
+_12th April, 1866._--On starting we found the jungle so dense that the
+people thought "there was no cutting it:" it continued upwards of
+three miles. The trees are not large, but so closely planted together
+that a great deal of labour was required to widen and heighten the
+path: where bamboos prevail they have starved out the woody trees. The
+reason why the trees are not large is because all the spaces we passed
+over were formerly garden ground before the Makondé had been thinned
+by the slave-trade. As soon as a garden is deserted, a thick crop of
+trees of the same sorts as those formerly cut down springs up, and
+here the process of woody trees starving out their fellows, and
+occupying the land without dense scrub below, has not had time to work
+itself out. Many are mere poles, and so intertwined with climbers as
+to present the appearance of a ship's ropes and cables shaken in among
+them, and many have woody stems as thick as an eleven-inch hawser. One
+species may be likened to the scabbard of a dragoon's sword, but along
+the middle of the flat side runs a ridge, from which springs up every
+few inches a bunch of inch-long straight sharp thorns. It hangs
+straight for a couple of yards, but as if it could not give its thorns
+a fair chance of mischief, it suddenly bends on itself, and all its
+cruel points are now at right angles to what they were before.
+Darwin's observation shows a great deal of what looks like instinct in
+these climbers. This species seems to be eager for mischief; its
+tangled limbs hang out ready to inflict injury on all passers-by.
+Another climber is so tough it is not to be broken by the fingers;
+another appears at its root as a young tree, but it has the straggling
+habits of its class, as may be seen by its cords stretched some fifty
+or sixty feet off; it is often two inches in diameter; you cut it
+through at one part and find it reappear forty yards off.
+
+[Illustration: Tomahawk and Axe.]
+
+Another climber is like the leaf of an aloe, but convoluted as
+strangely as shavings from the plane of a carpenter. It is dark green
+in colour, and when its bark is taken off it is beautifully striated
+beneath, lighter and darker green, like the rings of growth on wood;
+still another is a thin string with a succession of large knobs, and
+another has its bark pinched up all round at intervals so as to
+present a great many cutting edges. One sort need scarcely be
+mentioned, in which all along its length are strong bent hooks, placed
+in a way that will hold one if it can but grapple with him, for that
+is very common and not like those mentioned, which the rather seem to
+be stragglers from the carboniferous period of geologists, when
+Pachydermata wriggled unscathed among tangled masses worse than these.
+We employed about ten jolly young Makondé to deal with these
+prehistoric plants in their own way, for they are accustomed to
+clearing spaces for gardens, and went at the work with a will, using
+tomahawks well adapted for the work. They whittled away right
+manfully, taking an axe when any trees had to be cut. Their pay,
+arranged beforehand, was to be one yard of calico per day: this is not
+much, seeing we are still so near the sea-coast. Climbers and young
+trees melted before them like a cloud before the sun! Many more would
+have worked than we employed, but we used the precaution of taking
+the names of those engaged. The tall men became exhausted soonest,
+while the shorter men worked vigorously still--but a couple of days'
+hard work seemed to tell on the best of them. It is doubtful if any
+but meat-eating people can stand long-continued labour without
+exhaustion: the Chinese may be an exception. When French navvies were
+first employed they could not do a tithe of the work of our English
+ones; but when the French were fed in the same style as the English,
+they performed equally well. Here the Makondé have rarely the chance
+of a good feed of meat: it is only when one of them is fortunate
+enough to spear a wild hog or an antelope that they know this luxury;
+if a fowl is eaten they get but a taste of it with their porridge.
+
+_13th April, 1866._--We now began to descend the northern slope down
+to the Rovuma, and a glimpse could occasionally be had of the country;
+it seemed covered with great masses of dark green forest, but the
+undulations occasionally looked like hills, and here and there a
+Sterculia had put on yellow foliage in anticipation of the coming
+winter. More frequently our vision was circumscribed to a few yards
+till our merry woodcutters made for us the pleasant scene of a long
+vista fit for camels to pass: as a whole, the jungle would have made
+the authors of the natty little hints to travellers smile at their own
+productions, good enough, perhaps, where one has an open country with
+trees and hills; by which to take bearings, estimate distances, see
+that one point is on the same latitude, another on the same longitude
+with such another, and all to be laid down fair and square with
+protractor and compass, but so long as we remained within the
+vegetation, that is fed by the moisture from the Indian Ocean, the
+steamy, smothering air, and dank, rank, luxuriant vegetation made me
+feel, like it, struggling for existence,--and no more capable of
+taking bearings than if I had been in a hogshead and observing through
+the bunghole!
+
+An old Monyińko headman presented a goat and asked if the sepoys
+wished to cut its throat: the Johannees, being of a different sect of
+Mahometans, wanted to cut it in some other way than their Indian
+co-religionists: then ensued a fierce dispute as to who was of the
+right sort of Moslem! It was interesting to see that not Christians
+alone, but other nations feel keenly on religious subjects.
+
+I saw rocks of grey sandstone (like that which overlies coal) and the
+Rovuma in the distance. Didi is the name of a village whose headsman,
+Chombokëa, is said to be a doctor; all the headmen pretend or are
+really doctors; however one, Fundindomba, came after me for medicine
+for himself.
+
+_14th April, 1866._--To-day we succeeded in reaching the Rovuma, where
+some very red cliffs appear on the opposite heights, and close by
+where it is marked on the map that the _Pioneer_ turned back in 1861.
+Here we rested on Sunday 15th.
+
+_16th April, 1866._--Our course now lay westwards, along the side of
+that ragged outline of table-land, which we had formerly seen from the
+river as flanking both sides. There it appeared a range of hills
+shutting in Rovuma, here we had spurs jutting out towards the river,
+and valleys retiring from a mile to three miles inland. Sometimes we
+wended our way round them, sometimes rose over and descended their
+western sides, and then a great deal of wood-cutting was required. The
+path is not straight, but from one village to another. We came
+perpetually on gardens, and remarked that rice was sown among the
+other grain; there must be a good deal of moisture at other times to
+admit of this succeeding: at present the crops were suffering for want
+of rain. We could purchase plenty of rice for the sepoys, and well it
+was so, for the supply which was to last till we arrived at Ngomano
+was finished on the 13th. An old doctor, with our food awaiting,
+presented me with two large bags of rice and his wife husked it for
+us.
+
+_17th April, 1866._--I had to leave the camels in the hands of the
+sepoys: I ordered them to bring as little luggage as possible, and the
+Havildar assured me that two buffaloes were amply sufficient to carry
+all they would bring. I now find that they have more than full loads
+for two buffaloes, two mules, and two donkeys; but when these animals
+fall down under them, they assure me with so much positiveness that
+they are not overloaded, that I have to be silent, or only, as I have
+several times done before, express the opinion that they will kill
+these animals. This observation on my part leads them to hide their
+things in the packs of the camels, which also are over-burdened. I
+fear that my experiment with the tsetse will be vitiated, but no
+symptoms yet occur in any of the camels except weariness.[6] The sun
+is very sharp; it scorches. Nearly all the sepoys had fever, but it is
+easily cured; they never required to stop marching, and we cannot make
+over four or five miles a day, which movement aids in the cure. In all
+cases of fever removal from the spot of attack should be made: after
+the fever among the sepoys, the Nassick boys took their turn along
+with the Johannees.
+
+_18th April, 1866._--Ben Ali misled us away up to the north in spite
+of my protest, when we turned in that direction; he declared that was
+the proper path. We had much wood-cutting, and found that our course
+that day and next was to enable him to visit and return from one of
+his wives--a comely Makondé woman! He brought her to call on me, and I
+had to be polite to the lady, though we lost a day by the zigzag. This
+is one way by which the Arabs gain influence; a great many very
+light-coloured people are strewed among the Makondé, but only one of
+these had the Arab hair. On asking Ali whether any attempts had been
+made by Arabs to convert those with whom they enter into such intimate
+relationships, he replied that the Makondé had no idea of a Deity--no
+one could teach them, though Makondé slaves when taken to the coast
+and elsewhere were made Mahometans. Since the slave-trade was
+introduced this tribe has much diminished in numbers, and one village
+makes war upon another and kidnaps, but no religious teaching has been
+attempted. The Arabs come down to the native ways, and make no efforts
+to raise the natives to theirs; it is better that it is so, for the
+coast Arab's manners and morals would be no improvement on the pagan
+African!
+
+_19th April, 1866._--We were led up over a hill again, and on to the
+level of the plateau (where the evaporation is greater than in the
+valley), and tasted water of an agreeable coldness for the first time
+this journey. The people, especially the women, are very rude, and the
+men very eager to be employed as woodcutters. Very merry they are at
+it, and every now and then one raises a cheerful shout, in which all
+join. I suppose they are urged on by a desire to please their wives
+with a little clothing. The higher up the Rovuma we ascend the people
+are more and more tattooed on the face, and on all parts of the body.
+The teeth are filed to points, and huge lip-rings are worn by the
+women; some few Mabeha men from the south side of the river have
+lip-rings too.
+
+_20th April, 1866._--A Johanna man allowed the camels to trespass and
+destroy a man's tobacco patch: the owner would not allow us after this
+to pass through his rice-field, in which the route lay. I examined the
+damage, and made the Johanna man pay a yard of calico for it, which
+set matters all right.
+
+Tsetse are biting the buffaloes again. Elephants, hippopotami, and
+pigs are the only game here, but we see none: the tsetse feed on
+them. In the low meadow land, from one to three miles broad, which
+lies along both banks, we have brackish pools, and one, a large one,
+which we passed, called Wrongwé, had much fish, and salt is got from
+it.
+
+_21st April, 1866._--After a great deal of cutting we reached the
+valley of Mehambwé to spend Sunday, all glad that it had come round
+again. Here some men came to our camp from Ndondé, who report that an
+invasion of Mazitu had three months ago swept away all the food out of
+the country, and they are now obliged to send in every direction for
+provisions. When saluting, they catch each other's hands and say, "Ai!
+Ai!" but the general mode (introduced, probably by the Arabs) is to
+take hold of the right hand, and say, "Marhaba" (welcome).
+
+A wall-eyed ill-looking fellow, who helped to urge on the attack on
+our first visit in 1861, and the man to whom I gave cloth to prevent a
+collision, came about us disguised in a jacket. I knew him well, but
+said nothing to him.[7]
+
+_23rd April, 1866._--When we marched this morning we passed the spot
+where an animal had been burned in the fire, and on enquiry I found
+that it is the custom when a leopard is killed to take off the skin
+and consume the carcase thus, because the Makondé do not eat it. The
+reason they gave for not eating flesh which is freely eaten by other
+tribes, is that the leopard devours men; this shows the opposite of an
+inclination to cannibalism.
+
+All the rocks we had seen showed that the plateau consists of grey
+sandstone, capped by a ferruginous sandy conglomerate. We now came to
+blocks of silicified wood lying on the surface; it is so like recent
+wood, that no one who has not handled it would conceive it to be
+stone and not wood: the outer surface preserves the grain or woody
+fibre, the inner is generally silica.
+
+Buffaloes bitten by tsetse again show no bad effects from it: one mule
+is, however, dull and out of health; I thought that this might be the
+effect of the bite till I found that his back was so strained that he
+could not stoop to drink, and could only eat the tops of the grasses.
+An ox would have been ill in two days after the biting on the 7th.
+
+A carrier stole a shirt, and went off unsuspected; when the loss was
+ascertained, the man's companions tracked him with Ben Ali by night,
+got him in his hut, and then collected the headmen of the village, who
+fined him about four times the value of what had been stolen. They
+came back in the morning without seeming to think that they had done
+aught to be commended; this was the only case of theft we had noticed,
+and the treatment showed a natural sense of justice.
+
+_24th April, 1866._--We had showers occasionally, but at night all the
+men were under cover of screens. The fevers were speedily cured; no
+day was lost by sickness, but we could not march more than a few
+miles, owing to the slowness of the sepoys; they are a heavy drag on
+us, and of no possible use, except when acting as sentries at night.
+
+When in the way between Kendany and Rovuma, I observed a plant here,
+called _Mandaré_, the root of which is in taste and appearance like a
+waxy potato; I saw it once before at the falls below the Barotsé
+Valley, in the middle of the continent; it had been brought there by
+an emigrant, who led out the water for irrigation, and it still
+maintained its place in the soil. Would this not prove valuable in the
+soil of India? I find that it is not cultivated further up the country
+of the Makondé, but I shall get Ali to secure some for Bombay.
+
+_25th April, 1866._--A serpent bit Jack, our dog, above the eye, the
+upper eyelid swelled very much, but no other symptoms appeared, and
+next day all swelling was gone; the serpent was either harmless, or
+the quantity of poison injected very small. The pace of the camels is
+distressingly slow, and it suits the sepoys to make it still slower
+than natural by sitting down to smoke and eat. The grass is high and
+ground under it damp and steamy.
+
+_26th April, 1866._--On the 25th we reached Narri, and resolved to
+wait the next day and buy food, as it is not so plentiful in front;
+the people are eager traders in meal, fowls, eggs, and honey; the
+women are very rude. Yesterday I caught a sepoy, Pando, belabouring a
+camel with a big stick as thick as any part of his arm, the path being
+narrow, it could not get out of his way; I shouted to him to desist;
+he did not know I was in sight, to-day the effect of the bad usage is
+seen in the animal being quite unable to move its leg: inflammation
+has set up in the hip-joint. I am afraid that several bruises which
+have festered on the camels, and were to me unaccountable, have been
+wilfully bestowed. This same Pando and another left Zanzibar drunk: he
+then stole a pair of socks from me, and has otherwise been perfectly
+useless, even a pimple on his leg was an excuse for doing nothing for
+many days. We had to leave this camel at Narri under charge of the
+headman.
+
+_28th April, 1866._--The hills on the north now retire out of our
+sight. A gap in the southern plateau gives passage to a small river,
+which arises in a lakelet of some size, eight or ten miles inland: the
+river and lakelet are both called Nangadi; the latter is so broad that
+men cannot be distinguished, even by the keen eyes of the natives on
+the other side: it is very deep, and abounds in large fish; the people
+who live there are Mabiha. A few miles above this gap the southern
+highland falls away, and there are lakelets on marshes, also
+abounding in fish, an uninhabited space next succeeds, and then we
+have the Matambwé country, which extends up to Ngomano. The Matambwé
+seem to be a branch of the Makondé, and a very large one: their
+country extends a long way south, and is well stocked with elephants
+and gum-copal trees.
+
+They speak a language slightly different from that of the Makondé, but
+they understand them. The Matambwé women are, according to Ali, very
+dark, but very comely, though they do wear the lip-ring. They carry
+their ivory, gum-copal, and slaves to Ibo or Wibo.
+
+_29th April, 1866._--We spend Sunday, the 29th, on the banks of the
+Rovuma, at a village called Nachuchu, nearly opposite Konayumba, the
+first of the Matambwé, whose chief is called Kimbembé. Ali draws a
+very dark picture of the Makondé. He says they know nothing of a
+Deity, they pray to their mothers when in distress or dying; know
+nothing of a future state, nor have they any religion except a belief
+in medicine; and every headsman is a doctor. No Arab has ever tried to
+convert them, but occasionally a slave taken to the coast has been
+circumcised in order to be clean; some of them pray, and say they know
+not the ordeal or muavi. The Nassick boys failed me when I tried to
+communicate some knowledge through them. They say they do not
+understand the Makondé language, though some told me that they came
+from Ndondé's, which is the head-quarters of the Makondé. Ali says
+that the Makondé blame witches for disease and death; when one of a
+village dies, the whole population departs, saying "that is a bad
+spot." They are said to have been notorious for fines, but an awe has
+come over them, and no complaints have been made, though our animals
+in passing the gardens have broken a good deal of corn. Ali says they
+fear the English. This is an answer to my prayer for influence on the
+minds of the heathen. I regret that I cannot speak to them that good
+of His name which I ought.
+
+I went with the Makondé to see a specimen of the gum-copal tree in the
+vicinity of this village. The leaves are in pairs, glossy green, with
+the veins a little raised on both face and back; the smaller branches
+diverge from the same point: the fruit, of which we saw the shells,
+seems to be a nut; some animal had in eating them cut them through.
+The bark of the tree is of a light ash colour; the gum was oozing from
+the bark at wounded places, and it drops on the ground from branches;
+it is thus that insects are probably imbedded in the gum-copal. The
+people dig in the vicinity of modern trees in the belief that the more
+ancient trees which dropped their gum before it became an article of
+commerce must have stood there. "In digging, none may be found on one
+day but God (Mungu) may give it to us on the next." To this all the
+Makondé present assented, and showed me the consciousness of His
+existence was present in their minds. The Makondé get the gum in large
+quantities, and this attracts the coast Arabs, who remain a long time
+in the country purchasing it. Hernia humoralis abounds; it is ascribed
+to beer-drinking.
+
+_30th April, 1866._--Many ulcers burst forth on the camels; some seem
+old dhow bruises. They come back from pasture, bleeding in a way that
+no rubbing against a tree would account for. I am sorry to suspect
+foul play: the buffaloes and mules are badly used, but I cannot be
+always near to prevent it.
+
+Bhang[8] is not smoked, but tobacco is: the people have no sheep or
+goats; only fowls, pigeons, and Muscovy ducks are seen. Honey is very
+cheap; a good large pot of about a gallon, with four fowls, was given
+for two yards of calico. Buffaloes again bitten by tsetse, and by
+another fly exactly like the house-fly, but having a straight hard
+proboscis instead of a soft one; other large flies make the blood run.
+The tsetse does not disturb the buffaloes, but these others and the
+smaller flies do. The tsetse seem to like the camel best; from these
+they are gorged with blood--they do not seem to care for the mules and
+donkeys.
+
+[Illustration: Carved Door, Zanzibar.]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[3] Dhow is the name given to the coasting vessel of East Africa and
+the Indian Ocean.
+
+[4] The Commander of H.M.S. _Pioneer_ in 1861.
+
+[5] Those who have read the accounts given by African travellers will
+remember that the bites inflicted by two or three of these small flies
+will visually lay the foundation of a sickness which destroys oxen,
+horses, and dogs in a few weeks.
+
+[6] Dr. Livingstone was anxious to try camels and Indian buffaloes in
+a tsetse country to see the effect upon them.
+
+[7] This refers to an attack made upon the boats of the _Pioneer_ when
+the Doctor was exploring the River Rovuma in 1861.
+
+[8] A species of hemp.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Effect of _Pioneer's_ former visit. The poodle Chitané. Result
+    of tsetse bites. Death of camels and buffaloes. Disaffection of
+    followers. Disputed right of ferry. Mazitu raids. An old friend.
+    Severe privations. The River Loendi. Sepoys mutiny. Dr. Roscher.
+    Desolation. Tattooing. Ornamental teeth. Singular custom. Death
+    of the Nassick boy, Richard. A sad reminiscence.
+
+
+_1st May, 1866._--We now came along through a country comparatively
+free of wood, and we could move on without perpetual cutting and
+clearing. It is beautiful to get a good glimpse out on the surrounding
+scenery, though it still seems nearly all covered with great masses of
+umbrageous foliage, mostly of a dark green colour, for nearly all of
+the individual trees possess dark glossy leaves like laurel. We passed
+a gigantic specimen of the Kumbé, or gum-copal tree. Kumba means to
+dig. Changkumbé, or things dug, is the name of the gum; the Arabs call
+it "sandarusé." Did the people give the name Kumbé to the tree after
+the value of the gum became known to them? The Malolé, from the fine
+grained wood of which all the bows are made, had shed its fruit on the
+ground; it looks inviting to the eye--an oblong peach-looking thing,
+with a number of seeds inside, but it is eaten by maggots only.
+
+When we came to Ntandé's village, we found it enclosed in a strong
+stockade, from a fear of attack by Mabiha, who come across the river
+and steal their women when going to draw water: this is for the Ibo
+market. They offered to pull down their stockade and let us in if we
+would remain over-night, but we declined. Before reaching Ntandé we
+passed the ruins of two villages; the owners were the attacking party
+when we ascended the Rovuma in 1862. I have still the old sail, with
+four bullet-holes through it, made by the shots which they fired after
+we had given cloth and got assurances of friendship. The father and
+son of this village were the two men seen by the second boat preparing
+to shoot; the fire of her crew struck the father on the chin and the
+son on the head. It may have been for the best that the English are
+thus known as people who can hit hard when unjustly attacked, as we on
+this occasion most certainly were: never was a murderous assault more
+unjustly made or less provoked. They had left their villages and gone
+up over the highlands away from the river to their ambush whilst their
+women came to look at us.
+
+_2nd May, 1866._--Mountains again approach us, and we pass one which
+was noticed in our first ascent from its resemblance to a table
+mountain. It is 600 or 800 feet high, and called Liparu: the plateau
+now becomes mountainous, giving forth a perennial stream which comes
+down from its western base and forms a lagoon on the meadow-land that
+flanks the Rovuma. The trees which love these perpetual streams spread
+their roots all over the surface of the boggy banks, and make a firm
+surface, but at spots one may sink a yard deep. We had to fill up
+these deep ditches with branches and leaves, unload the animals, and
+lead them across. We spent the night on the banks of the Liparu,[9]
+and then proceeded on our way.
+
+_3rd May, 1866._--We rested in a Makoa village, the head of which was
+an old woman. The Makoa or Makoané are known by a half-moon figure
+tattooed on their foreheads or elsewhere. Our poodle dog Chitané
+chased the dogs of this village with unrelenting fury, his fierce
+looks inspired terror among the wretched pariah dogs of a yellow and
+white colour, and those looks were entirely owing to its being
+difficult to distinguish at which end his head or tail lay. He enjoyed
+the chase of the yelping curs immensely, but if one of them had turned
+he would have bolted the other way.
+
+A motherly-looking woman came forward and offered me some meal; this
+was when we were in the act of departing: others had given food to the
+men and no return had been made. I told her to send it on by her
+husband, and I would purchase it, but it would have been better to
+have accepted it: some give merely out of kindly feeling and with no
+prospect of a return.
+
+Many of the Makoa men have their faces thickly tattooed in double,
+raised lines of about half an inch in length. After the incisions are
+made charcoal is rubbed in and the flesh pressed out, so that all the
+cuts are raised above the level of the surface. It gives them rather a
+hideous look, and a good deal of that fierceness which our kings and
+chiefs of old put on whilst having their portraits taken.
+
+_4th May, 1866._--The stream, embowered in perpetual shade and
+overspread with the roots of water-loving, broad-leaved trees, we
+found to be called Nkonya. The spot of our encampment was an island
+formed by a branch of it parting and re-entering it again: the owner
+had used it for rice.
+
+The buffaloes were bitten again by tsetse on 2nd, and also to-day,
+from the bites of other flies (which look much more formidable than
+tsetse), blood of arterial colour flows down; this symptom I never saw
+before, but when we slaughtered an ox which had been tsetse bitten, we
+observed that the blood had the arterial hue. The cow has inflammation
+of one eye, and a swelling on the right lumbar portion of the pelvis:
+the grey buffalo has been sick, but this I attribute to unmerciful
+loading; for his back is hurt: the camels do not seem to feel the fly,
+though they get weaker from the horrid running sores upon them and
+hard work. There are no symptoms of tsetse in mules or donkeys, but
+one mule has had his shoulder sprained, and he cannot stoop to eat or
+drink.
+
+We saw the last of the flanking range on the north. The country in
+front is plain, with a few detached granitic peaks shot up. The Makoa
+in large numbers live at the end of the range in a place called
+Nyuchi. At Nyamba, a village where we spent the night of the 5th, was
+a doctoress and rain-maker, who presented a large basket of soroko,
+or, as they call it in India, "mung," and a fowl. She is tall and well
+made, with fine limbs and feet, and was profusely tattooed all over;
+even her hips and buttocks had their elaborate markings: no shame is
+felt in exposing these parts.
+
+A good deal of salt is made by lixiviation of the soil and evaporating
+by fire. The head woman had a tame khanga tolé or tufted guinea-fowl,
+with bluish instead of white spots.
+
+In passing along westwards after leaving the end of the range, we came
+first of all on sandstone hardened by fire; then masses of granite, as
+if in that had been contained the igneous agency of partial
+metamorphosis; it had also lifted up the sandstone, so as to cause a
+dip to the east. Then the syenite or granite seemed as if it had been
+melted, for it was all in striae, which striae, as they do elsewhere,
+run east and west. With the change in geological structure we get a
+different vegetation. Instead of the laurel-leaved trees of various
+kinds, we have African ebonies, acacias, and mimosae: the grass is
+shorter and more sparse, and we can move along without wood-cutting.
+We were now opposite a hill on the south called Simba, a lion, from
+its supposed resemblance to that animal. A large Mabiha population
+live there, and make raids occasionally over to this side for slaves.
+
+_6th May, 1866._--Tsetse again. The animals look drowsy. The cow's eye
+is dimmed; when punctured, the skin emits a stream of scarlet blood.
+The people hereabouts seem intelligent and respectful. At service a
+man began to talk, but when I said, "Ku soma Mlungu,"--"we wish to
+pray to God," he desisted. It would be interesting to know what the
+ideas of these men are, and to ascertain what they have gained in
+their communings with nature during the ages past. They do not give
+the idea of that boisterous wickedness and disregard of life which we
+read of in our own dark ages, but I have no one to translate, although
+I can understand much of what is said on common topics chiefly from
+knowing other dialects.
+
+_7th May, 1866._--A camel died during the night, and the grey buffalo
+is in convulsions this morning. The cruelty of these sepoys vitiates
+my experiment, and I quite expect many camels, one buffalo, and one
+mule to die yet; they sit down and smoke and eat, leaving the animals
+loaded in the sun. If I am not with them, it is a constant dawdling;
+they are evidently unwilling to exert themselves, they cannot carry
+their belts and bags, and their powers of eating and vomiting are
+astounding. The Makondé villages are remarkably clean, but no sooner
+do we pass a night in one than the fellows make it filthy. The climate
+does give a sharp appetite, but these sepoys indulge it till relieved
+by vomiting and purging. First of all they breakfast, then an hour
+afterwards they are sitting eating the pocketfuls of corn maize they
+have stolen and brought for the purpose, whilst I have to go ahead,
+otherwise we may be misled into a zigzag course to see Ali's friends;
+and if I remain behind to keep the sepoys on the move, it deprives me
+of all the pleasure of travelling. We have not averaged four miles a
+day in a straight line, yet the animals have often been kept in the
+sun for eight hours at a stretch. When we get up at 4 A.M. we cannot
+get under weigh before 8 o'clock. Sepoys are a mistake.
+
+_7th May, 1866._--We are now opposite a mountain called Nabungala,
+which resembles from the north-east an elephant lying down. Another
+camel, a very good one, died on the way: its shiverings and
+convulsions are not at all like what we observed in horses and oxen
+killed by tsetse, but such may lie the cause, however. The only
+symptom pointing to the tsetse is the arterial-looking blood, but we
+never saw it ooze from the skin after the bite of the gad-fly as we do
+now.
+
+_8th May, 1866._--We arrived at a village called Jpondé, or Lipondé,
+which lies opposite a granitic hill on the other-side of the river
+(where we spent a night on our boat trip), called Nakapuri; this is
+rather odd, for the words are not Makondé but Sichuana, and signify
+goat's horn, from the projections jutting out from the rest of the
+mass. I left the havildar, sepoys, and Nassick boys here in order to
+make a forced march forward, where no food is to be had, and send
+either to the south or westwards for supplies, so that after they have
+rested the animals and themselves five days they may come. One mule is
+very ill; one buffalo drowsy and exhausted; one camel a mere skeleton
+from bad sores; and another has an enormous hole at the point of the
+pelvis, which sticks out at the side. I suspect that this was made
+maliciously, for he came from the field bleeding profusely; no tree
+would have perforated a round hole in this way. I take all the goods
+and leave only the sepoys' luggage, which is enough for all the
+animals now.
+
+_9th May, 1866._--I went on with the Johanna men and twenty-four
+carriers, for it was a pleasure to get away from the sepoys and
+Nassick boys; the two combined to overload the animals. I told them
+repeatedly that they would kill them, but no sooner had I adjusted the
+burdens and turned my back than they put on all their things. It was
+however such continual vexation to contend with the sneaking spirit,
+that I gave up annoying myself by seeing matters, though I felt
+certain that the animals would all be killed. We did at least eight
+miles pleasantly well, and slept at Moedaa village. The rocks are
+still syenite. We passed a valley with the large thorny acacias of
+which canoes are often made, and a euphorbiaceous tree, with
+seed-vessels as large as mandarin oranges, with three seeds inside. We
+were now in a country which, in addition to the Mazitu invasion, was
+suffering from one of those inexplicable droughts to which limited and
+sometimes large portions of this country are subject. It had not been
+nearly so severe on the opposite or south side, and thither too the
+Mazitu had not penetrated. Rushes, which plagued us nearer the coast,
+are not observed now; the grass is all crisp and yellow; many of the
+plants are dead, and leaves are fallen off the trees as if winter had
+begun. The ground is covered with open forest, with here and there
+thick jungle on the banks of the streams. All the rivulets we have
+passed are mere mountain torrents filled with sand, in which the
+people dig for water.
+
+We passed the spot where an Arab called Birkal was asked payment for
+leave to pass. After two and a half days' parley he fought, killed two
+Makondé, and mortally wounded a headman, which settled the matter; no
+fresh demand has been made. Ali's brother also resisted the same sort
+of demand, fought several times, or until three Makondé and two of his
+people were killed; they then made peace, and no other exactions have
+been made.
+
+_11th May, 1866._--We now found a difficulty in getting our carriers
+along, on account of exhaustion from want of food. In going up a sand
+stream called Nyédé, we saw that all moist spots had been planted with
+maize and beans, so the loss caused by the Mazitu, who swept the land
+like a cloud of locusts, will not be attended by much actual
+starvation. We met a runaway woman: she was seized by Ali, and it was
+plain that he expected a reward for his pains. He thought she was a
+slave, but a quarter of a mile off was the village she had left, and
+it being doubtful if she were a runaway at all, the would-be fugitive
+slave-capture turned out a failure.
+
+_12th May, 1866._--About 4' E.N.E. of Matawatawa, or Nyamatololé, our
+former turning point.
+
+_13th May, 1866._--We halted at a village at Matawatawa. A
+pleasant-looking lady, with her face profusely tattooed, came forward
+with a bunch of sweet reed, or _Sorghum saceliaratum_, and laid it at
+my feet, saying, "I met you here before," pointing to the spot on the
+river where we turned. I remember her coming then, and that I asked
+the boat to wait while she went to bring us a basket of food, and I
+think it was given to Chiko, and no return made. It is sheer
+kindliness that prompts them sometimes, though occasionally people do
+make presents with a view of getting a larger one in return: it is
+pleasant to find that it is not always so. She had a quiet, dignified
+manner, both in talking and walking, and I now gave her a small
+looking-glass, and she went and brought me her only fowl and a basket
+of cucumber-seeds, from which oil is made; from the amount of oily
+matter they contain thov are nutritious when roasted and eaten as
+nuts. She made an apology, saying they were hungry times at present. I
+gave her a cloth, and so parted with Kanańgoné, or, as her name may be
+spelled, Kanańoné. The carriers were very useless from hunger, and we
+could not buy anything for them; for the country is all dried up, and
+covered sparsely with mimosas and thorny acacias.
+
+_14th May, 1866._--I could not get the carriers on more than an hour
+and three-quarters: men tire very soon on empty stomachs. We had
+reached the village of Hassané, opposite to a conical hill named
+Chisulwé, which is on the south side of the river, and evidently of
+igneous origin. It is tree-covered, while the granite always shows
+lumps of naked rock. All about lie great patches of beautiful
+dolomite. It may have been formed by baking of the tufa, which in this
+country seems always to have been poured out with water after volcanic
+action. Hassané's daughter was just lifting a pot of French beans,
+boiled in their pods, off the fire when we entered the village, these
+he presented to me, and when I invited him to partake, he replied that
+he was at home and would get something, while I was a stranger on a
+journey. He, like all the other headmen, is a reputed doctor, and his
+wife, a stout old lady, a doctoress; he had never married any wife but
+this one, and he had four children, all of whom lived with their
+parents. We employed one of his sons to go to the south side and
+purchase food, sending at the same time some carriers to buy for
+themselves. The siroko and rice bought by Hassané's son we deposited
+with him for the party behind, when they should arrive. The amount of
+terror the Mazitu inspire cannot be realized by us. They shake their
+shields and the people fly like stricken deer. I observed that a child
+would not go a few yards for necessary purposes unless grandmother
+stood in sight. Matumora, as the Arabs call the chief at Ngomano, gave
+them a warm reception, and killed several of them: this probably
+induced them to retire.
+
+_15th and 16th May, 1866._--Miserably short marches from hunger, and I
+sympathise with the poor fellows. Those sent to buy food for
+themselves on the south bank were misled by a talkative fellow named
+Chikungu, and went off north, where we knew nothing could be had. His
+object was to get paid for three days, while they only loitered here.
+I suppose hunger has taken the spirit out of them; but I told them
+that a day in which no work was done did not count: they admitted
+this. We pay about two feet of calico per day, and a fathom or six
+feet for three days' carriage.
+
+_17th May, 1866._--With very empty stomachs they came on a few miles
+and proposed to cross to the south side; as this involved crossing the
+Luendi too, I at first objected, but in hopes that we might get food
+for them we consented, and were taken over in two very small canoes. I
+sent Ali and Musa meanwhile to the south to try and get some food. I
+got a little green sorghum for them and paid them off. These are the
+little troubles of travelling, and scarce worth mentioning. A granitic
+peak now appears about 15' off, to the W.S.W. It is called Chihoka.
+
+_18th May, 1866._--At our crossing place metamorphic rocks of a
+chocolate colour stood on edge; and in the country round we have
+patches of dolomite, sometimes as white as marble. The country is all
+dry: grass and leaves crisp and yellow. Though so arid now, yet the
+great abundance of the dried stalks of a water-loving plant, a sort of
+herbaceous acacia, with green pea-shaped flowers, proves that at other
+times it is damp enough. The marks of people's feet floundering in
+slush, but now baked, show that the country can be sloppy.
+
+The headman of the village where we spent the night of 17th is a
+martyr to rheumatism. He asked for medicine, and when I gave some he
+asked me to give it to him out of my own hand. He presented me with a
+basket of siroko and of green sorghum as a fee, of which I was very
+glad, for my own party were suffering, and I had to share out the
+little portion of flour I had reserved to myself.
+
+_19th May, 1866._--Coming on with what carriers we could find at the
+crossing place, we reached the confluence without seeing it; and
+Matumora being about two miles up the Loendi, we sent over to him for
+aid. He came over this morning early,--a tall, well-made man, with a
+somewhat severe expression of countenance, from a number of wrinkles
+on his forehead. He took us over the Loendi, which is decidedly the
+parent stream of the Rovuma, though that as it comes from the west
+still retains the name Loendi from the south-west here, and is from
+150 to 200 yards wide, while the Rovuma above Matawatawa is from 200
+to 250, full of islands, rocks, and sandbanks. The Loendi has the same
+character. We can see the confluence from where we cross about 2' to
+the north. Both rivers are rapid, shoal, and sandy; small canoes are
+used on them, and the people pride themselves on their skilful
+management: in this the women seem in no way inferior to the men.
+
+In looking up the Loendi we see a large granitic peak called Nkanjé,
+some 20 miles off, and beyond it the dim outline of distant highlands,
+in which seams of coal are exposed. Pieces of the mineral are found in
+Loendi's sands.
+
+Matumora has a good character in the country, and many flee to him
+from oppression. He was very polite; sitting on the right bank till
+all the goods were carried over, then coming in the same canoe wifn me
+himself, he opened a fish basket in a weir and gave me the contents,
+and subsequently a little green sorghum. He literally has lost all his
+corn, for he was obliged to flee with his people to Marumba, a rocky
+island in Rovuma, about six miles above Matawatawa. He says that both
+Loendi and Rovuma come out of Lake Nyassa; a boat could not ascend,
+however, because many waterfalls are in their course: it is strange if
+all this is a myth. Matumora asked if the people through whose country
+I had come would preserve the peace I wished. He says he has been
+assailed on all sides by slave-hunters: he alone has never hunted for
+captives: if the people in front should attack me he would come and
+fight them: finally he had never seen a European before (Dr. Roscher
+travelled as an Arab), nor could I learn where Likumbu at Ngomano
+lives; it was with him that Roscher is said to have left his goods.
+
+The Mazitu had women, children, oxen and goats with them. The whole
+tribe lives on plundering the other natives by means of the terror
+their shields inspire; had they gone further down the Rovuma, no ox
+would have survived the tsetse.
+
+_20th May, 1866._--I paid Ali to his entire satisfaction, and
+entrusted him with a despatch, "No. 2 Geographical," and then sent off
+four men south to buy food. Here we are among Matambwé. Two of
+Matumora's men act as guides. We are about 2' south and by west of the
+confluence Ngomano. Lat. 11° 26' 23" S.; long. 37° 40' 52" E.
+
+Abraham, one of the Nassick boys, came up and said he had been sent by
+the sepoys, who declared they would come no further. It was with the
+utmost difficulty they had come so far, or that the havildar had
+forced them on, they would not obey him--would not get up in the
+mornings to march; lay in the paths, and gave their pouches and
+muskets to the natives to carry: they make themselves utterly useless.
+The black buffalo is dead; one camel ditto, and one mule left behind
+ill. Were I not aware of the existence of the tsetse, I should say
+they died from sheer bad treatment and hard work.
+
+I sent a note to be read to the sepoys stating that I had seen their
+disobedience, unwillingness, and skulking, and as soon as I received
+the havildar's formal evidence, I would send them back. I regretted
+parting with the havildar only.
+
+A leopard came a little after dark while the moon was shining, and
+took away a little dog from among us; it is said to have taken off a
+person a few days ago.
+
+_22nd May, 1866._--The men returned with but little food in return for
+much cloth. Matumora is very friendly, but he has nothing to give save
+a little green sorghum, and that he brings daily.
+
+A south wind blows strongly every afternoon. The rains ceased about
+the middle of May, and the temperature is lowered. A few heavy night
+showers closed the rainy season.
+
+_23rd--24th May, 1866._--I took some Lunar observations.
+
+_25th May, 1866._--Matumora is not Ndondé. A chief to the south-west
+of this owns that name and belongs to the Matumbwé tribe.
+
+_26th May, 1866._--I sent Musa westwards to buy food, and he returned
+on the evening of 27th without success; he found an Arab slave-dealer
+waiting in the path, who had bought up all the provisions. About 11
+P.M. we saw two men pass our door with two women in a chain; one man
+carried fire in front, the one behind, a musket. Matumora admits that
+his people sell each other.
+
+_27th May, 1866._--The havildar and Abraham came up. Havildar says
+that all I said in my note was true, and when it was read to the
+sepoys they bewailed their folly, he adds that if they were all sent
+away disgraced, no one would be to blame but themselves. He brought
+them to Hassané's, but they were useless, though they begged to be
+kept on: I may give them another trial, but at present they are a sad
+incumbrance. South-west of this the Manganja begin; but if one went by
+them, there is a space beyond in the south-west without people.
+
+The country due west of this is described by all to be so mountainous
+and beset by Mazitu, that there is no possibility of passing that way.
+I must therefore make my way to the middle of the Lake, cross over,
+and then take up my line of 1863.
+
+_2nd June, 1866._--The men sent to the Matambwé south-east of this
+returned with a good supply of grain. The sepoys won't come; they say
+they cannot,--a mere excuse, v because they tried to prevail on the
+Nassick boys to go slowly like them, and wear my patience out. They
+killed one camel with the butt ends of their muskets, beating it till
+it died. I thought of going down disarming them all, and taking five
+or six of the willing ones, but it is more trouble than profit, so I
+propose to start westwards on Monday the 4th, or Tuesday the 5th. My
+sepoys offered Ali eight rupees to take them to the coast, thus it
+has been a regularly organized conspiracy.
+
+From the appearance of the cow-buffalo, I fear the tsetse is its chief
+enemy, but there is a place like a bayonet wound on its shoulder, and
+many of the wounds or bruises on the camels were so probed that I
+suspect the sepoys.
+
+Many things African are possessed of as great vitality in their line
+as the African people. The white ant was imported accidentally into
+St. Helena from the coast of Guinea, and has committed such ravages in
+the town of St. James, that numerous people have been ruined, and the
+governor calls out for aid against them. In other so-called new
+countries a wave of English weeds follows the tide of English
+emigration, and so with insects; the European house-fly chases away
+the blue-bottle fly in New Zealand. Settlers have carried the
+house-fly in bottles and boxes for their new locations, but what
+European insect will follow us and extirpate the tsetse? The Arabs
+have given the Makondé bugs, but we have the house-fly wherever we go,
+the blue-bottle and another like the house-fly, but with a sharp
+proboscis; and several enormous gad-flies. Here there is so much room
+for everything. In New Zealand the Norwegian rat is driven off by even
+the European mouse; not to mention the Hanoverian rat of Waterton,
+which is lord of the land. The Maori say that "as the white man's rat
+has driven away the native rat, so the European fly drives away our
+own; and as the clover kills our fern, so will the Maori disappear
+before the white man himself." The hog placed ashore by Captain Cook
+has now overrun one side of the island, and is such a nuisance that a
+large farmer of 100,000 acres has given sixpence per head for the
+destruction of some 20,000, and without any sensible diminution; this
+would be no benefit here, for the wild hogs abound and do much damage,
+besides affording food for the tsetse: the brutes follow the ewes with
+young, and devour the poor lambs as soon as they make their
+appearance.
+
+_3rd June, 1866._--The cow-buffalo fell down foaming at the mouth, and
+expired. The meat looks fat and nice, and is relished by the people, a
+little glariness seemed to be present on the foreleg, and I sometimes
+think that, notwithstanding the dissimilarity of the symptoms observed
+in the camels and buffaloes now, and those we saw in oxen and horses,
+the evil may be the tsetse, after all, but they have been badly used,
+without a doubt. The calf has a cut half an inch deep, the camels have
+had large ulcers, and at last a peculiar smell, which portends death.
+I feel perplexed, and not at all certain as to the real causes of
+death.
+
+I asked Matumora if the Matambwé believed in God, he replied, that he
+did not know Him, and I was not to ask the people among whom I was
+going if they prayed to Him, because they would imagine that I wished
+them to be killed. I told him that we loved to speak about Him, &c. He
+said, when they prayed they offered a little meal and then prayed, but
+did not know much about Him.
+
+They have all great reverence for the Deity, and the deliberate way in
+which they say "We don't know Him" is to prevent speaking
+irreverently, as that may injure the country. The name is "Mulungu":
+Makochera afterwards said, that "He was not good, because He killed so
+many people."
+
+_4th June, 1866._--Left Ngomano. I was obliged to tell the Nassick
+boys that they must either work or return, it was absurd to have them
+eating up our goods, and not even carrying their own things, and I
+would submit to it no more: five of them carry bales, and two the
+luggage of the rest. Abraham and Richard are behind. I gave them bales
+to carry, and promised them ten rupees per month, to begin on this
+date. Abraham has worked hard all along, and his pay may be due from
+7th April, the day we started from Kindany.
+
+_5th June, 1866._--We slept at a village called Lamba, on the banks of
+the Rovuma, near a brawling torrent of 150 yards, or 200 perhaps, with
+many islands and rocks in it. The country is covered with open forest,
+with patches of cultivation everywhere, but all dried up at present
+and withered, partly from drought and partly from the cold of winter.
+We passed a village with good ripe sorghum cut down, and the heads or
+ears all laid neatly in a row, this is to get it dried in the sun, and
+not shaken out by the wind, by waving to and fro; besides it is also
+more easily watched from being plundered by birds. The sorghum
+occasionally does not yield seed, and is then the _Sorghum
+saccharatum_, for the stalk contains abundance of sugar, and is much
+relished by the natives. Now that so much has failed to yield seed,
+being indeed just in flower, the stalks are chewed as if sugar-cane,
+and the people are fat thereon; but the hungry time is in store when
+these stalles are all done. They make the best provision in their
+power against famine by planting beans and maize in moist spots. The
+common native pumpkin forms a bastard sort in the same way, but that
+is considered very inferior.
+
+_6th June, 1866._--Great hills of granite are occasionally in sight
+towards the north, but the trees, though scraggy, close in the view.
+We left a village, called Mekosi, and goon came to a slaving party by
+a sand stream. They said that they had bought two slaves, but they had
+run away from them, and asked us to remain with them; more civil than
+inviting. We came on to Makochera, the principal headman in this
+quarter, and found him a merry laughing mortal, without any good looks
+to recommend his genial smile,--low forehead, covered with deep
+wrinkles; flat nose, somewhat of the Assyrian shape; a big mouth and
+lean body. He complained of the Machinga (a Waiyau tribe north of him
+and the Rovuma) stealing his people. Lat. of village, 11° 22' 49" S.
+The river being about 2' north, still shows that it makes a trend to
+the north after we pass Ngomano. Makochera has been an elephant
+hunter. Few acknowledge as a reason for slaving that sowing and
+spinning cotton for clothing is painful. I waited some days for the
+Nassick boys, who are behind, though we could not buy any food except
+at enormous prices and long distances off.
+
+_7th June, 1866._--The havildar and two sepoys came up with Abraham,
+but Richard, a Nassick boy, is still behind from weakness. I sent
+three off to help him with the only cordials we could muster. The
+sepoys sometimes profess inability to come on, but it is unwillingness
+to encounter hardship: I must move on whether they come or not, for we
+cannot obtain food here. I sent the sepoys some cloth, and on the 8th
+proposed to start, but every particle of food had been devoured the
+night before, so we despatched two parties to scour the country round,
+and give any price rather than want.
+
+I could not prevail on Makochera to give me a specimen of poetry; he
+was afraid, neither he nor his forefathers had ever seen an
+Englishman. He thought that God was not good because He killed so many
+people. Dr. Roscher must have travelled as an Arab if he came this
+way, for he was not known.[10]
+
+_9th June, 1866._--We now left and marched through the same sort of
+forest, gradually ascending in altitude as we went west, then we came
+to huge masses of granite, or syenite, with flakes peeling off. They
+are covered with a plant with grassy-looking leaves and rough stalk
+which strips into portions similar to what are put round candles as
+ornaments. It makes these hills look light grey, with patches of
+black rock at the more perpendicular parts; the same at about ten
+miles off look dark blue. The ground is often hard and stony, but all
+covered over with grass and plants: looking down at it, the grass is
+in tufts, and like that on the Kalahari desert. Trees show uplands.
+One tree of which bark cloth is made, pterocarpus, is abundant.
+Timber-trees appear here and there, but for the most part the growth
+is stunted, and few are higher than thirty feet. We spent the night by
+a hill of the usual rounded form, called Njeńgo. The Rovuma comes
+close by, but leaves us again to wind among similar great masses. Lat.
+11° 20' 05" S.
+
+_10th June, 1866._--A very heavy march through the same kind of
+country, no human habitation appearing; we passed a dead
+body--recently, it was said, starved to death. The large tract between
+Makochera's and our next station at Ngozo hill is without any
+perennial stream; water is found often by digging in the sand streams
+which we several times crossed; sometimes it was a trickling rill, but
+I suspect that at other seasons all is dry, and people are made
+dependent on the Rovuma alone. The first evidence of our being near
+the pleasant haunts of man was a nice little woman drawing water at a
+well. I had become separated from the rest: on giving me water she
+knelt down, and, as country manners require, held it up to me with
+_both_ hands. I had been misled by one of the carriers, who got
+confused, though the rounded mass of Ngozo was plainly visible from
+the heights we crossed east of it.
+
+An Arab party bolted on hearing of our approach: they don't trust the
+English, and this conduct increases our importance among the natives.
+Lat. 11° 18' 10" S.
+
+_11th June, 1866._--Our carriers refuse to go further, because they
+say that they fear being captured here on their return.
+
+_12th June, 1866._--I paid off the carriers, and wait for a set from
+this. A respectable man, called Makoloya, or Impandé, visited me, and
+wished to ask some questions as to where I was going, and how long I
+should be away. He had heard from a man who came from Ibo, or Wibo,
+about the Bible, a large book which was consulted.
+
+[Illustration: Tattoo of Matambwé.]
+
+_13th June, 1866._--Makoloya brought his wife and a little corn, and
+says that his father told him that there is a God, but nothing more.
+The marks on their foreheads and bodies are meant only to give beauty
+in the dance, they seem a sort of heraldic ornament, for they can at
+once tell by his tattoo to what tribe or portion of tribe a man
+belongs. The tattoo or tembo of the Matambwé and Upper Makondé very
+much resembles the drawings of the old Egyptians; wavy lines, such as
+the ancients made to signify water, trees and gardens enclosed in
+squares, seem to have been meant of old for the inhabitants who lived
+on the Rovuma, and cultivated also, the son takes the tattoo of his
+father, and thus it has been perpetuated, though the meaning now
+appears lost. The Makoa have the half or nearly full moon, but it is,
+they say, all for ornament. Some blue stuff is rubbed into the cuts (I
+am told it is charcoal), and the ornament shows brightly in persons
+of light complexion, who by the bye are common. The Makondé and
+Matambwé file their front teeth to points; the Machinga, a Waiyan
+tribe, leave two points on the sides of the front teeth, and knock out
+one of the middle incisors above and below.
+
+[Illustration: Machinga and Waiyan Teeth.]
+
+_14th June, 1866._--I am now as much dependent on carriers as if I had
+never bought a beast of burden--but this is poor stuff to fill a
+journal with. We started off to Metaba to see if the chief there would
+lend some men. The headman, Kitwanga, went a long way to convoy us;
+then turned, saying he was going to get men for Musa next day. We
+passed near the base of the rounded masses Ngozo and Mekanga, and
+think, from a near inspection, that they are over 2000 feet above the
+plain, possibly 3000 feet, and nearly bare, with only the peculiar
+grassy plant on some parts which are not too perpendicular. The people
+are said to have stores of grain on them, and on one the chief said
+there is water; he knows of no stone buildings of the olden time in
+the country. We passed many masses of ferruginous conglomerate, and I
+noticed that most of the gneiss dips westwards. The striae seem as if
+the rock had been partially molten: at times the strike is north and
+south, at others east and west; when we come to what may have been its
+surface, it is as if the striae had been stirred with a rod while
+soft.
+
+We slept at a point of the Rovuma, above a cataract where a reach of
+comparatively still water, from 150 to 200 yards wide, allows a school
+of hippopotami to live: when the river becomes fordable in many
+places, as it is said to do in August and September, they must find it
+difficult to exist.
+
+_15th June, 1866._--Another three hours' march brought us from the
+sleeping-place on the Rovuma to Metaba, the chief of which, Kinazombé,
+is an elderly man, with a cunning and severe cast of countenance, and
+a nose Assyrian in type; he has built a large reception house, in
+which a number of half-caste Arabs have taken up their abode. A great
+many of the people have guns, and it is astonishing to see the number
+of slave-taming sticks abandoned along the road as the poor wretches
+gave in, and professed to have lost all hope of escape. Many huts have
+been built by the Arabs to screen themselves from the rain as they
+travelled. At Kinazombé's the second crop of maize is ready, so the
+hunger will not be very much felt.
+
+_16th June, 1866._--We heard very sombre accounts of the country in
+front:--four or five days to Mtarika, and then ten days through jungle
+to Mataka's town: little food at Mtarika's, but plenty with Mataka,
+who is near the Lake. The Rovuma trends southerly after we leave
+Ngozo, and Masusa on that river is pointed out as south-west from
+Metaba, so at Ngozo the river may be said to have its furthest
+northing. Masusa is reported to be five days, or at least fifty miles,
+from Metaba. The route now becomes south-west.
+
+The cattle of Africa are like the Indian buffalo, only partially
+tamed; they never give their milk without the presence of the calf or
+its stuffed skin, the "fulchan." The women adjacent to Mozambique
+partake a little of the wild animal's nature, for, like most members
+of the inferior races of animals, they refuse all intercourse with
+their husbands when enceinte and they continue this for about three
+years afterwards, or until the child is weaned, which usually happens
+about the third year. I was told, on most respectable authority, that
+many fine young native men marry one wife and live happily with her
+till this period; nothing will then induce her to continue to cohabit
+with him, and, as the separation is to continue for three years, the
+man is almost compelled to take up with another wife: this was
+mentioned to me as one of the great evils of society. The same
+absurdity prevails on the West Coast, and there it is said that the
+men acquiesce from ideas of purity.
+
+It is curious that trade-rum should form so important an article of
+import on the West Coast while it is almost unknown on the East Coast,
+for the same people began the commerce in both instances. If we look
+north of Cape Delgado, we might imagine that the religious convictions
+of the Arabs had something to do with the matter, but the Portuguese
+south of Cape Delgado have no scruples in the matter, and would sell
+their grandfathers as well as the rum if they could make money by the
+transaction, they have even erected distilleries to furnish a vile
+spirit from the fruit of the cashew and other fruits and grain, but
+the trade does not succeed. They give their slaves also rewards of
+spirit, or "maata bicho" ("kill the creature," or "craving within"),
+and you may meet a man who, having had much intercourse with
+Portuguese, may beg spirits, but the trade does not pay. The natives
+will drink it if furnished gratis. The indispensable "dash" of rum on
+the West Coast in every political transaction with independent chiefs
+is, however, quite unknown. The Moslems would certainly not abstain
+from trading in spirits were the trade profitable. They often asked
+for brandy from me in a sly way--as medicine; and when reminded that
+their religion forbade it, would say, "Oh, but we can drink it in
+secret."
+
+It is something in the nature of the people quite inexplicable, that
+throughout the Makondé country hernia humoralis prevails to a
+frightful extent; it is believed by the natives to be the result of
+beer drinking, so they cannot be considered as abstemious.
+
+_18th June, 1866._--Finding that Musa did not come up with the goods I
+left in his charge, and fearing that all was not right, we set off
+with all our hands who could carry, after service yesterday morning,
+and in six hours' hard tramp arrived here just in time, for a tribe of
+Wanindi, or Manindi, who are either Ajawas (Waiyau),[11] or pretended
+Mazitu, had tried to cross the Rovuma from the north bank. They came
+as plunderers, and Musa having received no assistance was now ready to
+defend the goods. A shot or two from the people of Kitwanga made the
+Wanindi desert after they had entered the water.
+
+Six sepoys and Simon had come up this length; Reuben and Mabruki
+reported Richard to be dead. This poor boy was left with the others at
+Lipondé, and I never saw him again. I observed him associating too
+much with the sepoys; and often felt inclined to reprove him, as their
+conversation is usually very bad, but I could not of my own knowledge
+say so. He came on with the others as far as Hassané or Pachassané:
+there he was too weak to come further, and as the sepoys were
+notoriously skulkers, I feared that poor Richard was led away by them,
+for I knew that they had made many attempts to draw away the other
+Nassick boys from their duty. When, however, Abraham came up and
+reported Richard left behind by the sepoys, I became alarmed, and sent
+off three boys with cordials to help him on: two days after Abraham
+left he seems to have died, and I feel very sorry that I was not there
+to do what I could. I am told now that he never consented to the sepoy
+temptation: he said to Abraham that he wished he were dead, he was so
+much troubled. The people where he died were not v$ry civil to Simon.
+
+The sepoys had now made themselves such an utter nuisance that I felt
+that I must take the upper hand with them, so I called them up this
+morning, and asked if they knew the punishment they had incurred by
+disobeying orders, and attempting to tamper with the Nassick boys to
+turn them back. I told them they not only remained in the way when
+ordered to march, but offered eight rupees to Ali to lead them to the
+coast, and that the excuse of sickness was nought, for they had eaten
+heartily three meals a day while pretending illness. They had no
+excuse to offer, so I disrated the naik or corporal, and sentenced the
+others to carry loads; if they behave well, then they will get fatigue
+pay for doing fatigue duty, if ill, nothing but their pay. Their limbs
+are becoming contracted from sheer idleness; while all the other men
+are well and getting stronger they alone are disreputably slovenly and
+useless-looking. Their filthy habits are to be reformed, and if found
+at their habit of sitting down and sleeping for hours on the march, or
+without their muskets and pouches, they are to be flogged. I sent two
+of them back to bring up two comrades, left behind yesterday. All who
+have done work are comparatively strong.
+
+[We may venture a word in passing on the subject of native recruits,
+enlisted for service in Africa, and who return thither after a long
+absence. All the Nassick boys were native-born Africans, and yet we
+see one of them succumb immediately. The truth is that natives; under
+these circumstances, are just as liable to the effects of malaria on
+landing as Europeans, although it is not often that fever assumes a
+dangerous form in such cases. The natives of the interior have the
+greatest dread of the illnesses which they say are sure to be in store
+for them if they visit the coast.]
+
+_19th June, 1866._--I gave the sepoys light loads in order to inure
+them to exercise and strengthen them, and they carried willingly so
+long as the fright was on them, but when the fear of immediate
+punishment wore off they began their skulking again. One, Perim,
+reduced his load of about 20 lbs. of tea by throwing away the lead in
+which it was rolled, and afterwards about 15 lbs. of the tea, thereby
+diminishing our stock to 5 lbs.
+
+[Dr. Livingstone's short stay in England in 1864-5 was mainly taken up
+with compiling an account of his travels on the Zambesi and Shiré:
+during this time his mother expired in Scotland at a good old age.
+When he went back to Africa he took with him, as part of his very
+scanty travelling equipment, a number of letters which he received
+from friends at different times in England, and he very often quoted
+them when he had an opportunity of sending letters home. We come to an
+entry at this time which shows that in these reminiscences he had not
+thus preserved an unmixed pleasure. He says:--]
+
+I lighted on a telegram to-day:--"Your mother died at noon on the 18th
+June."
+
+This was in 1865: it affected me not a little.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[9] Further on we found it called Nkonya.
+
+[10] It will be remembered that this German traveller was murdered
+near Lake Nyassa. The native chiefs denounced his assassins, and sent
+them to Zanzibar, where they were executed.--ED.
+
+[11] Further westward amongst the Manganja or Nyassa people the Waiyan
+tribe is called "Ajawa," and we find Livingstone always speaking of
+them as Ajawas in his previous explorations on the River Rovuma. (See
+'The Zambesi and its Tributaries.')--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Horrors of the slave-trader's track. System of cultivation.
+    Pottery. Special exorcising. Death of the last mule. Rescue of
+    Chirikaloma's wife. Brutalities of the slave-drivers. Mtarika's.
+    Desperate march to Mtaka's. Meets Arab caravans. Dismay of
+    slavers. Dismissal of sepoys. Mataka. The Waiyan metropolis.
+    Great hospitality and good feeling. Mataka restores stolen
+    cattle. Life with the chief. Beauty of country and healthiness
+    of climate. The Waiyan people and their peculiarities. Regrets
+    at the abandonment of Bishop Mackenzie's plans.
+
+_19th June, 1866._--We passed a woman tied by the neck to a tree and
+dead, the people of the country explained that she had been unable to
+keep up with the other slaves in a gang, and her master had determined
+that she should not become the property of anyone else if she
+recovered after resting for a time. I may mention here that we saw
+others tied up in a similar manner, and one lying in the path shot or
+stabbed[12], for she was in a pool of blood. The explanation we got
+invariably was that the Arab who owned these victims was enraged at
+losing his money by the slaves becoming unable to march, and vented
+his spleen by murdering them; but I have nothing more than common
+report in support of attributing this enormity to the Arabs.
+
+_20th June, 1866._--Having returned to Metaba, we were told by
+Kinazombé, the chief, that no one had grain to sell but himself. He
+had plenty of powder and common cloth from the Arabs, and our only
+chance with him was parting with our finer cloths and other things
+that took his fancy. He magnified the scarcity in front in order to
+induce us to buy all we could from him, but he gave me an ample meal
+of porridge and guinea-fowl before starting.
+
+_21st June, 1866._--We had difficulties about carriers, but on
+reaching an island in the Rovuma, called Chimiki, we found the people
+were Makoa and more civil and willing to work than the Waiyau: we sent
+men back to bring up the havildar to a very civil headman called
+Chirikaloma.
+
+_22nd June, 1866._--A poor little boy with prolapsus ani was carried
+yesterday by his mother many a weary mile, lying over her right
+shoulder--the only position he could find ease in,--an infant at the
+breast occupied the left arm, and on her head were carried two
+baskets. The mother's love was seen in binding up the part when we
+halted, whilst the coarseness of low civilization was evinced in the
+laugh with which some black brutes looked at the sufferer.
+
+_23rd June, 1866._--The country is covered with forest, much more open
+than further east. We are now some 800 feet above the sea. The people
+all cultivate maize near the Rovuma, and on islands where moisture
+helps them, nearly all possess guns, and plenty of powder and fine
+beads,--red ones strung on the hair, and fine blue ones in rolls on
+the neck, fitted tightly like soldiers' stocks. The lip-ring is
+universal; teeth filed to points.
+
+_24th June, 1866._--Immense quantities of wood are cut down, collected
+in heaps, and burned to manure the land, but this does not prevent the
+country having an appearance of forest. Divine service at 8.30 A.M.;
+great numbers looking on. They have a clear idea of the Supreme Being,
+but do not pray to Him.. Cold south winds prevail; temp. 55°. One of
+the mules is very ill--it was left with the havildar when we went back
+to Ngozo, and probably remained uncovered at night, for as soon as we
+saw it, illness was plainly visible. Whenever an animal has been in
+their power the sepoys have abused it. It is difficult to feel
+charitably to fellows whose scheme seems to have been to detach the
+Nassick boys from me first, then, when the animals were all killed,
+the Johanna men, afterwards they could rule me as they liked, or go
+back and leave me to perish; but I shall try to feel as charitably as
+I can in spite of it all, for the mind has a strong tendency to brood
+over the ills of travel. I told the havildar when I came up to him at
+Metaba what I had done, and that I was very much displeased with the
+sepoys for compassing my failure, if not death; an unkind word had
+never passed my lips to them: to this he could bear testimony. He
+thought that they would only be a plague and trouble to me, but he
+"would go on and die with me."
+
+Stone boiling is unknown in these countries, but ovens are made in
+anthills. Holes are dug in the ground for baking the heads of large
+game, as the zebra, feet of elephants, humps of rhinoceros, and the
+production of fire by drilling between the palms of the hands is
+universal. It is quite common to see the sticks so used attached to
+the clothing or bundles in travelling; they wet the blunt end of the
+upright stick with the tongue, and dip it in the sand to make some
+particles of silica adhere before inserting it in the horizontal
+piece. The wood of a certain wild fig-tree is esteemed as yielding
+fire readily.
+
+In wet weather they prefer to carry fire in the dried balls of
+elephants' dung which are met with--the male's being about eight
+inches in diameter and about a foot long: they also employ the stalk
+of a certain plant which grows on rocky places for the same purpose.
+
+We bought a senzé, or _Aulacaudatus Swindernianus_, which had been
+dried over a slow fire. This custom of drying fish, flesh, and fruits,
+on stages over slow fires, is practised very generally: the use of
+salt for preservation is unknown. Besides stages for drying, the
+Makondé use them about six feet high for sleeping on instead of the
+damp ground: a fire beneath helps to keep off the mosquitoes, and they
+are used by day as convenient resting-places and for observation.
+
+Pottery seems to have been known to the Africans from the remotest
+times, for fragments are found everywhere, even among the oldest
+fossil bones in the country. Their pots for cooking, holding water and
+beer, are made by the women, and the form is preserved by the eye
+alone, for no sort of machine is ever used. A foundation or bottom is
+first laid, and a piece of bone or bamboo used to scrape the clay or
+to smooth over the pieces which are added to increase the roundness;
+the vessel is then left a night: the next morning a piece is added to
+the rim--as the air is dry several rounds may be added--and all is
+then carefully smoothed off; afterwards it is thoroughly sun-dried. A
+light fire of dried cow-dung, or corn-stalks, or straw, and grass with
+twigs, is made in a hole in the ground for the final baking. Ornaments
+are made on these pots of black lead, or before being hardened by the
+sun they are ornamented for a couple or three inches near the rim, all
+the tracery being in imitation of plaited basket work.
+
+Chirikaloma says that the surname of the Makoa, to whom he belongs, is
+Mirazi--others have the surname Melola or Malola--Chimposola. All had
+the half-moon mark when in the south-east, but now they leave it off a
+good deal and adopt the Waiyau marks, because of living in their
+country. They show no indications of being named after beasts and
+birds. Mirazi was an ancestor; they eat all clean animals, but refuse
+the hyaena, leopard, or any beast that devours dead men.[13]
+
+_25th June, 1866._--On leaving Chirikaloma we came on to Namalo,
+whose village that morning had been deserted, the people moving off in
+a body towards the Matambwé country, where food is more abundant. A
+poor little girl was left in one of the huts from being too weak to
+walk, probably an orphan. The Arab slave-traders flee from the path as
+soon as they hear of our approach. The Rovuma is from 56 to 80 yards
+wide here. No food to be had for either love or money.
+
+Near many of the villages we observe a wand bent and both ends
+inserted into the ground: a lot of medicine, usually the bark of
+trees, is buried beneath it. When sickness is in a village, the men
+proceed to the spot, wash themselves with the medicine and water,
+creep through beneath the bough, then bury the medicine and the evil
+influence together. This is also used to keep off evil spirits, wild
+beasts, and enemies.
+
+Chirikaloma told us of a child in his tribe which was deformed from
+his birth. He had an abortive toe where his knee should have been;
+some said to his mother, "Kill him;" but she replied, "How can I kill
+my son?" He grew up and had many fine sons and daughters, but none
+deformed like himself: this was told in connection with an answer to
+my question about the treatment of Albinoes: he said they did not kill
+them, but they never grew to manhood. On inquiring if he had ever
+heard of cannibals, or people with tails, he replied, "Yes, but we
+have always understood that these and other monstrosities are met with
+only among you sea-going people." The other monstrosities he referred
+to were those who are said to have eyes behind the head as well as in
+front: I have heard of them before, but then I was near Angola, in the
+west.
+
+The rains are expected here when the Pleiades appear in the east soon
+after sunset; they go by the same name here as further south--Lemila
+or the "hoeings."
+
+In the route along the Rovuma, we pass among people who are so well
+supplied with white calico by the slave-trade from Kilwa, that it is
+quite a drug in the market: we cannot get food for it. If we held on
+westwards we should cross several rivers flowing into the Rovuma from
+the southward, as the Zandulo, the Sanjenzé, the Lochiringo, and then,
+in going round the north end of Nyassa, we should pass among the
+Nindi, who now inhabit the parts vacated by the Mazitu, and imitate
+them in having shields and in marauding. An Arab party went into their
+country, and got out again only by paying a whole bale of calico; it
+would not be wise in me to venture there at present, but if we return
+this way we may; meanwhile we shall push on to Mataka, who is only a
+few days off from the middle of the Lake, and has abundance of
+provisions.
+
+_26th June, 1866._--My last mule died. In coming along in the morning
+we were loudly accosted by a well-dressed woman who had just had a
+very heavy slave-taming stick put on her neck; she called in such an
+authoritative tone to us to witness the flagrant injustice of which
+she was the victim that all the men stood still and went to hear the
+case. She was a near relative of Chirikaloma, and was going up the
+river to her husband, when the old man (at whose house she was now a
+prisoner) caught her, took her servant away from her, and kept her in
+the degraded state we saw. The withes with which she was bound were
+green and sappy. The old man said in justification that she was
+running away from Chirikaloma, and he would be offended with him if he
+did not secure her.
+
+I asked the officious old gentleman in a friendly tone what he
+expected to receive from Chirikaloma, and he said, "Nothing." Several
+slaver-looking fellows came about, and I felt sure that the woman had
+been seized in order to sell her to them, so I gave the captor a cloth
+to pay to Chirikaloma if he were offended, and told him to say that
+I, feeling ashamed to see one of his relatives in a slave-stick, had
+released her, and would, take her on to her husband.
+
+She is evidently a lady among them, having many fine beads and some
+strung on elephant's hair: she has a good deal of spirit too, for on
+being liberated she went into the old man's house and took her basket
+and calabash. A virago of a wife shut the door and tried to prevent
+her, as well as to cut off the beads from her person, but she resisted
+like a good one, and my men thrust the door open and let her out, but
+minus her slave. The other wife--for old officious had two--joined her
+sister in a furious tirade of abuse, the elder holding her sides in
+regular fishwife fashion till I burst into a laugh, in which the
+younger wife joined. I explained to the different headmen in front of
+this village what I had done, and sent messages to Chirikaloma
+explanatory of my friendly deed to his relative, so that no
+misconstruction should be put on my act.
+
+We passed a slave woman shot or stabbed through the body and lying on
+the path: a group of mon stood about a hundred yards off on one side,
+and another of women on the other side, looking on; they said an Arab
+who passed early that morning had done it in anger at losing the price
+he had given for her, because she was unable to walk any longer.
+
+_27th June, 1866._--To-day we came upon a man dead from starvation, as
+he was very thin. One of our men wandered and found a number of slaves
+with slave-sticks on, abandoned by their master from want of food;
+they were too weak to be able to speak or say where they had come
+from; some were quite young. We crossed the Tulosi, a stream coming
+from south, about twenty yards wide.
+
+At Chenjewala's the people are usually much startled when I explain
+that the numbers of slaves we see dead on the road have been killed
+partly by those who sold them, for I tell them that if they sell
+their fellows, they are like the man who holds the victim while the
+Arab performs the murder.
+
+Chenjewala blamed Machemba, a chief above him on the Rovuma, for
+encouraging the slave-trade; I told him I had travelled so much among
+them that I knew all the excuses they could make, each headman blamed
+some one else.
+
+"It would be better if you kept your people and cultivated more
+largely," said I, "Oh, Machemba sends his men and robs our gardens
+after we have cultivated," was the reply. One man said that the Arabs
+who come and tempt them with fine clothes are the cause of their
+selling: this was childish, so I told them they would very soon have
+none to sell: their country was becoming jungle, and all their people
+who did not die in the road would be making gardens for Arabs at Kilwa
+and elsewhere.
+
+_28th June, 1866._--When we got about an hour from Chenjewala's we
+came to a party in the act of marauding; the owners of the gardens
+made off for the other side of the river, and waved to us to go
+against the people of Machemba, but we stood on a knoll with all our
+goods on the ground, and waited to see how matters would turn out. Two
+of the marauders came to us and said they had captured five people. I
+suppose they took us for Arabs, as they addressed Musa. They then took
+some green maize, and so did some of my people, believing that as all
+was going, they who were really starving might as well have a share.
+
+I went on a little way with the two marauders, and by the footprints
+thought the whole party might amount to four or five with guns; the
+gardens and huts were all deserted. A poor woman was sitting, cooking
+green maize, and one of the men ordered her to follow him. I said to
+him, "Let her alone, she is dying." "Yes," said he, "of hunger," and
+went'on without her.
+
+We passed village after village, and gardens all deserted! We were
+now between two contending parties. We slept at one garden; and as we
+were told by Chenjewala's people to take what we liked, and my men had
+no food, we gleaned what congo beans, bean leaves, and sorghum stalks
+we could,--poor fare enough, but all we could get.
+
+_29th June, 1866._--We came onto Machemba's brother, Chimseia, who
+gave us food at once. The country is now covered with deeper soil, and
+many large acacia-trees grow in the rich loam: the holms too are
+large, and many islands afford convenient maize grounds. One of the
+Nassiek lads came up and reported his bundle, containing 240 yards of
+calico, had been stolen; he went aside, leaving it on the path
+(probably fell asleep), and it was gone when he came back. I cannot
+impress either on them or the sepoys that it is wrong to sleep on the
+march.
+
+Akosakoné, whom we had liberated, now arrived at the residence of her
+husband, who was another brother of Machemba. She behaved like a lady
+all through, sleeping at a fire apart from the men. The ladies of the
+different villages we passed condoled with her, and she related to
+them the indignity that had been done to her. Besides this she did us
+many services: she bought food for us, because, having a good address,
+we saw that she could get double what any of our men could purchase
+for the same cloth; she spoke up for us when any injustice was
+attempted, and, when we were in want of carriers, volunteered to carry
+a bag of beads on her head. On arriving at Machemba's brother,
+Chimseia, she introduced me to him, and got him to be liberal to us in
+food on account of the service we had rendered to her. She took leave
+of us all with many expressions of thankfulness, and we were glad that
+we had not mistaken her position or lavished kindness on the
+undeserving.
+
+One Johanna man was caught stealing maize, then another, after I had
+paid for the first. I sent a request to the chief not to make much of
+a grievance about it, as I was very much ashamed at my men stealing;
+he replied that he had liked me from the first, and I was not to fear,
+as whatever service he could do he would most willingly in order to
+save me pain and trouble. A sepoy now came up having given his musket
+to a man to carry, who therefore demanded payment. As it had become a
+regular nuisance for the sepoys to employ people to carry for them,
+telling them that I would pay, I demanded why he had promised in my
+name. "Oh, it was but a little way he carried the musket," said he.
+Chimseia warned us next morning, 30th June, against allowing any one
+to straggle or steal in front, for stabbing and plundering were the
+rule. The same sepoy who had employed a man to carry his musket now
+came forward, with his eyes fixed and shaking all over. This, I was to
+understand, meant extreme weakness; but I had accidentally noticed him
+walking quite smartly before this exhibition, so I ordered him to keep
+close to the donkey that carried the havildar's luggage, and on no
+account to remain behind the party. He told the havildar that he would
+sit down only for a little while; and, I suppose, fell asleep, for he
+came up to us in the evening as naked as a robin.
+
+I saw another person bound to a tree and dead--a sad sight to see,
+whoever was the perpetrator. So many slave-sticks lie along our path,
+that I suspect the people here-about make a practice of liberating
+what slaves they cian find abandoned on the march, to sell them again.
+
+A large quantity of maize is cultivated at Chimsaka's, at whose place
+we this day arrived. We got a supply, but being among thieves, we
+thought it advisable to move on to the next place (Mtarika's). When
+starting, we found that fork, kettle, pot, and shot-pouch had been
+taken. The thieves, I observed, kept up a succession of jokes with
+Chuma and Wikatani and when the latter was enjoying them, gaping to
+the sky, they were busy putting the things of which he had charge
+under their cloths! I spoke to the chief, and he got the three first
+articles back for me.
+
+A great deal if not all the lawlessness of this quarter is the result
+of the slave-trade, for the Arabs buy whoever is brought to them and
+in a country covered with forest as this is, kidnapping can be
+prosecuted with the greatest ease; elsewhere the people are honest,
+and have a regard for justice.
+
+_1st July, 1866._--As we approach Mtarika's place, the country becomes
+more mountainous and the land sloping for a mile down to the south
+bank of the Rovuma supports a large population. Some were making new
+gardens by cutting down trees and piling the branches for burning;
+others had stored tip large quantities of grain and were moving it to
+a new locality, but they were all so well supplied with calico
+(Merikano) that they would not look at ours: the market was in fact
+glutted by slavers from (Quiloa) Kilwa. On asking why people were seen
+tied to trees to die as we had seen them, they gave the usual answer
+that the Arabs tie them thus and leave them to perish, because they
+are vexed, when the slaves can walk no further, that they have lost
+their money by them. The path is almost strewed with slave-sticks, and
+though the people denied it, I suspect that they make a practice of
+following slave caravans and cutting off the sticks from those who
+fall out in the march, and thus stealing them. By selling them again
+they get the quantities of cloth we see. Some asked for gaudy prints,
+of which we had none, because we knew that the general taste of the
+Africans of the Interior is for strength rather than show in what they
+buy.
+
+The Rovuma here is about 100 yards broad, and still keeps up its
+character of a rapid stream, with sandy banks and islands: the latter
+are generally occupied, as being defensible when the river is in
+flood.
+
+_2nd July, 1866._--We rested at Mtarika's old place; and though we had
+to pay dearly with our best table-cloths[14] for it, we got as much as
+made one meal a day. At the same dear rate we could give occasionally
+only two ears of maize to each man; and if the sepoys got their
+comrades' corn into their hands, they eat it without shame. We had to
+bear a vast amount of staring, for the people, who are Waiyau, have a
+great deal of curiosity, and are occasionally rather rude. They have
+all heard of our wish to stop the slave-trade, and are rather taken
+aback when told that by selling they are part and part guilty of the
+mortality of which we had been unwilling spectators. Some were
+dumbfounded when shown that in the eye of their Maker they are parties
+to the destruction of human life which accompanies this traffic both
+by sea and land. If they did not sell, the Arabs would not come to
+buy. Chuma and Wakatani render what is said very eloquently in Chiyau,
+most of the people being of their tribe, with only a sprinkling of
+slaves. Chimseia, Chimsaka, Mtarika, Mtendé, Makanjela, Mataka, and
+all the chiefs and people in our route to the Lake, are Waiyau, or
+Waiau.[15]
+
+On the southern slope down to the river there are many oozing springs
+and damp spots where rice has been sown and reaped. The adjacent land
+has yielded large crops of sorghum, congo-beans, and pumpkins.
+Successive crowds of people came to gaze. My appearance and acts often
+cause a burst of laughter; sudden standing up produces a flight of
+women and children. To prevent peeping into the hut which I occupy,
+and making the place quite dark, I do my writing in the verandah.
+Chitané, the poodle dog, the buffalo-calf, and our only remaining
+donkey are greeted with the same amount of curiosity and
+laughter-exciting comment as myself.
+
+Every evening a series of loud musket reports is heard from the
+different villages along the river; these are imitation evening guns.
+All copy the Arabs in dress and chewing tobacco with "nora" lime, made
+from burnt river shells instead of betel-nut and lime. The women are
+stout, well-built persons, with thick arms and legs; their heads
+incline to the bullet shape; the lip-rings are small; the tattoo a
+mixture of Makoa and Waiyau. Fine blue and black beads are in fashion,
+and so are arm-coils of thick brass wire. Very nicely inlaid combs are
+worn in the hair; the inlaying is accomplished by means of a gum got
+from the root of an orchis called _Nangazu_.
+
+_3rd July, 1866._--A short march brought us to Mtarika's new place.
+The chief made his appearance only after he had ascertained all he
+could about us. The population is immense; they are making new
+gardens, and the land is laid out by straight lines about a foot
+broad, cut with the hoe; one goes miles without getting beyond the
+marked or surveyed fields.
+
+Mtarika came at last; a big ugly man, with large mouth and receding
+forehead. He asked to see all our curiosities, as the watch, revolver,
+breech-loading rifle, sextant. I gave him a lecture on the evil of
+selling his people, and he wished me to tell all the other chiefs the
+same thing.
+
+They dislike the idea of guilt being attached to them for having sold
+many who have lost their lives on their way down to the sea-coast. We
+had a long visit from Mtarika next day; he gave us meal, and meat of
+wild hog, with a salad made of bean-leaves. A wretched Swaheli Arab,
+ill with rheumatism, came for aid, and got a cloth. They all profess
+to me to be buying ivory only.
+
+_5th July, 1866._--We left for Mtendé, who is the last chief before
+we enter on a good eight days' march to Mataka's; we might have gone
+to Kandulo's, who is near the Rovuma, and more to the north, but all
+are so well supplied with everything by slave-traders that we have
+difficulty in getting provisions at all. Mataka has plenty of all
+kinds of food. On the way we passed the burnt bones of a person Avho
+was accused of having eaten human flesh; he had been poisoned, or, as
+they said, killed by poison (muave?), and then burned. His clothes
+were hung, up on trees by the wayside as a warning to others. The
+country was covered with scraggy forest, but so undulating that one
+could often see all around from the crest of the waves. Great mountain
+masses appear in the south and south-west. It feels cold, and the sky
+is often overcast.
+
+_6th July, 1866._--I took lunars yesterday, after which Mtendé invited
+us to eat at his house where he had provided a large mess of rice
+porridge and bean-leaves as a relish. He says that many Arabs pass him
+and many of them die in their journeys. He knows no deaf or dumb
+person in the country. He says that he cuts the throats of all animals
+to be eaten, and does not touch lion or hyaena.
+
+_7th July, 1866._--We got men from Mtendé to carry loads and show the
+way. He asked a cloth to ensure his people going to the journey's end
+and behaving properly; this is the only case of anything like tribute
+being demanded in this journey: I gave him a cloth worth 5s. 6d.
+Upland vegetation prevails; trees are dotted here and there among
+bushes five feet high, and fine blue and yellow flowers are common. We
+pass over a succession of ridges and valleys as in Londa; each valley
+has a running stream or trickling rill; garden willows are in full
+bloom, and also a species of sage with variegated leaves beneath the
+flowers.
+
+When the sepoy Perim threw away the tea and the lead lining, I only
+reproved him and promised him punishment if he committed any other
+wilful offence, but now he and another skulked behind and gave their
+loads to a stranger to carry, with a promise to him that I would pay.
+We waited two hours for them; and as the havildar said that they would
+not obey him, I gave Perim and the other some smart cuts with a cane,
+but I felt that I was degrading myself, and resolved not to do the
+punishment myself again.
+
+_8th July, 1866._--Hard travelling through a depopulated country. The
+trees are about the size of hop-poles with abundance of tall grass;
+the soil is sometimes a little sandy, at other times that reddish,
+clayey sort which yields native grain so well. The rock seen uppermost
+is often a ferruginous conglomerate, lying on granite rocks. The
+gum-copal tree is here a mere bush, and no digging takes place for the
+gum: it is called Mchenga, and yields gum when wounded, as also bark,
+cloth, and cordage when stripped. Mountain masses are all around us;
+we sleep at Linata mountain.
+
+_9th July, 1866._--The Masuko fruit abounds: the name is the same here
+as in the Batoka country; there are also rhododendrons of two species,
+but the flowers white. We slept in a wild spot, near Mount Leziro,
+with many lions roaring about us; one hoarse fellow serenaded us a
+long time, but did nothing more. Game is said to be abundant, but we
+saw none, save an occasional diver springing away from the path. Some
+streams ran to the north-west to the Lismyando, which flows N. for the
+Rovuma; others to the south-east for the Loendi.
+
+_10th and 11th July, 1866._--Nothing to interest but the same weary
+trudge: our food so scarce that we can only give a handful or half a
+pound of grain to each person per day. The Masuko fruit is formed, but
+not ripe till rains begin; very few birds are seen or heard, though
+there is both food and water in the many grain-bearing grasses and
+running streams, which we cross at the junction of every two ridges.
+A dead body lay in a hut by the wayside; the poor thing had begun to
+make a garden by the stream, probably in hopes of living long enough
+(two months or so) on wild fruits to reap a crop of maize.
+
+_12th July, 1866._--A drizzling mist set in during the night and
+continued this morning, we set off in the dark, however, leaving our
+last food for the havildar and sepoys who had not yet come up. The
+streams are now of good size. An Arab brandy bottle was lying broken
+in one village called Msapa. We hurried on as fast as we could to the
+Luatizé, our last stage before getting to Mataka's; this stream is
+rapid, about forty yards wide, waist deep, with many podostemons on
+the bottom. The country gets more and more undulating and is covered
+with masses of green foliage, chiefly Masuko trees, which have large
+hard leaves. There are hippopotami further down the river on its way
+to the Loendi. A little rice which had been kept for me I divided, but
+some did not taste food.
+
+_13th July, 1866._--A good many stragglers behind, but we push on to
+get food and send it back to them. The soil all reddish clay, the
+roads baked hard by the sun, and the feet of many of us are weary and
+sore: a weary march and long, for it is perpetually up and down now. I
+counted fifteen running streams in one day: they are at the bottom of
+the valley which separates the ridges. We got to the brow of a ridge
+about an hour from Mataka's first gardens, and all were so tired that
+we remained to sleep; but we first invited volunteers to go on and buy
+food, and bring it back early next morning: they had to be pressed to
+do this duty.
+
+_14th July, 1866._--As our volunteers did not come at 8 A.M., I set
+off to see the cause, and after an hour of perpetual up and down
+march, as I descended the steep slope which overlooks the first
+gardens, I saw my friends start up at the apparition--they were
+comfortably cooking porridge for themselves! I sent men of Mataka
+back with food to the stragglers behind and came on to his town.
+
+An Arab, Sef Rupia or Rubea, head of a large body of slaves, on his
+way to the coast, most kindly came forward and presented an ox, bag of
+flour, and some cooked meat, all of which were extremely welcome to
+half-famished men, or indeed under any circumstances. He had heard of
+our want of food and of a band of sepoys, and what could the English
+think of doing but putting an end to the slave-trade? Had he seen our
+wretched escort, all fear of them would have vanished! He had a large
+safari or caravan under him. This body is usually divided into ten or
+twelve portions, and all are bound to obey the leader to á certain
+extent: in this case there were eleven parties, and the traders
+numbered about sixty or seventy, who were dark coast Arabs. Each
+underling had his men under him, and when I saw them they were busy
+making the pens of branches in which their slaves and they sleep. Sef
+came on with me to Mataka's, and introduced me in due form with
+discharges of gunpowder. I asked him to come back next morning, and
+presented three cloths with a request that he would assist the
+havildar and sepoys, if he met them, with food: this he generously
+did.
+
+We found Mataka's town situated in an elevated valley surrounded by
+mountains; the houses numbered at least 1000, and there were many
+villages around. The mountains were pleasantly green, and had many
+trees which the people were incessantly cutting down. They had but
+recently come here: they were besieged by Mazitu at their former
+location west of this; after fighting four days they left unconquered,
+having beaten the enemy off.
+
+Mataka kept us waiting some time in the verandah of his large square
+house, and then made his appearance, smiling with his good-natured
+face. He is about sixty years of age, dressed as an Arab, and if we
+may judge from the laughter with which his remarks were always
+greeted, somewhat humorous. He had never seen any but Arabs before. He
+gave me a square house to live in, indeed the most of the houses here
+are square, for the Arabs are imitated in everything: they have
+introduced the English pea, and we were pleased to see large patches
+of it in full bearing, and ripe in moist hollows which had been
+selected for it. The numerous springs which come out at various parts
+are all made use of. Those parts which are too wet are drained, whilst
+beds are regularly irrigated by water-courses and ridges: we had
+afterwards occasion to admire the very extensive draining which has
+been effected among the hills. Cassava is cultivated on ridges along
+all the streets in the town, which give it a somewhat regular and neat
+appearance. Peas and tobacco were the chief products raised by
+irrigation, but batatas and maize were often planted too: wheat would
+succeed if introduced. The altitude is about 2700 feet above the sea:
+the air at this time is cool, and many people have coughs.
+
+Mataka soon sent a good mess of porridge and cooked meat (beef); he
+has plenty of cattle and sheep: and the next day he sent abundance of
+milk. We stand a good deal of staring unmoved, though it is often
+accompanied by remarks by no means complimentary; they think that they
+are not understood, and probably I do misunderstand sometimes. The
+Waiyau jumble their words as I think, and Mataka thought that I did
+not enunciate anything, but kept my tongue still when I spoke.
+
+Town of Matak, Moembé. _15th July, 1866._--The safari under Sef set
+off this morning for Kilwa. Sef says that about 100 of the Kilwa
+people died this year, so slaving as well as philanthropy is
+accompanied with loss of life: we saw about seven of their graves; the
+rest died on the road up.
+
+There are two roads from this to the Lake, one to Loséwa, which is
+west of this, and opposite Kotakota; the other, to Makatu, is further
+south: the first is five days through deserted country chiefly; but
+the other, seven, among people and plenty of provisions all the way.
+
+It struck me after Sef had numbered up the losses that the Kilwa
+people sustained by death in their endeavours to Ťnslave people,
+similar losses on the part of those who go to "proclaim liberty to the
+captives, the opening of the prison to them that are bound,"--to save
+and elevate, need not be made so very much of as they sometimes are.
+
+Soon after our arrival we heard that a number of Mataka's Waiyau had,
+without his knowledge, gone to Nyassa, and in a foray carried off
+cattle and people: when they came home with the spoil, Mataka ordered
+all to be sent back whence they came. The chief came up to visit me
+soon after, and I told him that his decision was the best piece of
+news I had heard in the country: he was evidently pleased with my
+approbation, and, turning to his people, asked if they heard what I
+said. He repeated my remark, and said, "You silly fellows think me
+wrong in returning the captives, but all wise men will approve of it,"
+and he then scolded them roundly.
+
+I was accidentally spectator of this party going back, for on going
+out of the town I saw a meat market opened, and people buying with
+maize and meal. On inquiring, I was told that the people and cattle
+there were the Nyassas, and they had slaughtered an ox, in order to
+exchange meat for grain as provisions on the journey. The women and
+children numbered fifty-four, and about a dozen boys were engaged in
+milking the cows: the cattle were from twenty-five to thirty head.
+
+The change from hard and scanty fare caused illness in several of our
+party. I had tasted no animal food except what turtle-doves and
+guinea-fowls could be shot since we passed Matawatawa,--true, a fowl
+was given by Mtendé. The last march was remarkable for the scarcity of
+birds, so eight days were spent on porridge and rice without relish.
+
+I gave Mataka a trinket, to be kept in remembrance of his having sent
+back the Nyassa people: he replied that he would always act in a
+similar manner. As it was a spontaneous act, it was all the more
+valuable.
+
+The sepoys have become quite intolerable, and if I cannot get rid of
+them we shall all starve before we accomplish what we wish. They
+dawdle behind picking up wild fruits, and over our last march (which
+we accomplished on the morning of the eighth day) they took from
+fourteen to twenty-two days. Retaining their brutal feelings to the
+last they killed the donkey which I lent to the havildar to carry his
+things, by striking it on the head when in boggy places into which
+they had senselessly driven it loaded; then the havildar came on (his
+men pretending they could go no further from weakness), and killed the
+young buffalo and eat it when they thought they could hatch up a
+plausible story. They said it had died, and tigers came and devoured
+it--they saw them. "Did you see the stripes of the tiger?" said I. All
+declared that they saw the stripes distinctly. This gave us an idea of
+their truthfulness, as there is no striped tiger in all Africa. All
+who resolved on skulking or other bad behaviour invariably took up
+with the sepoys; their talk seemed to suit evil-doers, and they were
+such a disreputable-looking lot that I was quite ashamed of them. The
+havildar had no authority, and all bore the sulky dogged look of
+people going where they were forced but hated to go. This hang-dog
+expression of countenance was so conspicuous that I many a time have
+heard the country people remark, "These are the slaves of the party."
+They have neither spirit nor pluck as compared with the Africans, and
+if one saw a village he turned out of the way to beg in the most
+abject manner, or lay down and slept, the only excuse afterwards
+being, "My legs were sore." Having allowed some of them to sleep at
+the fire in my house, they began a wholesale plunder of everything
+they could sell, as cartridges, cloths, and meat, so I had to eject
+them. One of them then threatened to shoot my interpreter Simon if he
+got him in a quiet place away from the English power. As this threat
+had been uttered three times, and I suspect that something of the kind
+had prevented the havildar exerting his authority, I resolved to get
+rid of them by sending them back to the coast by the first trader. It
+is likely that some sympathizers will take their part, but I strove to
+make them useful. They had but poor and scanty fare in a part of the
+way, but all of us suffered alike. They made themselves thoroughly
+disliked by their foul talk and abuse, and if anything tended more
+than another to show me that theirs was a moral unfitness for travel,
+it was the briskness assumed when they knew they were going back to
+the coast. I felt inclined to force them on, but it would have been
+acting from revenge, and to pay them out, so I forbore. I gave Mataka
+forty-eight yards of calico, and to the sepoys eighteen yards, and
+arranged that he should give them food till Suleiman, a respectable
+trader, should arrive. He was expected every day, and we passed him
+near the town. If they chose to go and get their luggage, it was of
+course all safe for them behind. The havildar begged still to go on
+with me, and I consented, though he is a drag on the party, but he
+will count in any difficulty.
+
+Abraham recognised his uncle among the crowds who came to see us. On
+making himself known he found that his mother and two sisters had been
+sold to the Arabs after he had been enslaved. The uncle pressed him to
+remain, and Mataka urged, and so did another uncle, but in vain. I
+added my voice, and could have given him goods to keep him afloat a
+good while, but he invariably replied, "How can I stop where I have no
+mother and no sister?" The affection seems to go to the maternal side.
+I suggested that he might come after he had married a wife, but I fear
+very much that unless some European would settle, none of these
+Nassick boys will come to this country. It would be decidedly better
+if they were taught agriculture in the simplest form, as the Indian.
+Mataka would have liked to put his oxen to use, but Abraham could not
+help him with that. He is a smith, or rather a nothing, for unless he
+could smelt iron he would be entirely without materials to work with.
+
+_14th-28th July, 1866._--One day, calling at Mataka's, I found as
+usual a large crowd of idlers, who always respond with a laugh to
+everything he utters as wit. He asked, if he went to Bombay what ought
+he to take to secure some gold? I replied, "Ivory," he rejoined,
+"Would slaves not be a good speculation?" I replied that, "if he took
+slaves there for sale, they would put him in prison." The idea of the
+great Mataka in "chokee" made him wince, and the laugh turned for once
+against him. He said that as all the people from the coast crowd to
+him, they ought to give him something handsome for being here to
+supply their wants. I replied, if he would fill the fine well-watered
+country we had passed over with people instead of sending them off to
+Kilwa, he would confer a benefit on visitors, but we had been starved
+on the way to him; and I then told him what the English would do in
+road-making in a fine country like this. This led us to talk of
+railways, ships, ploughing with oxen--the last idea struck him most. I
+told him that I should have liked some of the Nassick boys to remain
+and teach this and other things, but they might be afraid to venture
+lest they should be sold again. The men who listened never heard such
+decided protests against selling each other into slavery before!
+
+The idea of guilt probably floated but vaguely in their minds, but
+the loss of life we have witnessed (in the guilt of which the sellers
+as well as the buyers participate) comes home very forcibly to their
+minds.
+
+Mataka has been an active hand in slave wars himself, though now he
+wishes to settle down in quiet. The Waiyau generally are still the
+most active agents the slave-traders have. The caravan leaders from
+Kilwa arrive at a Waiyau village, show the goods they have brought,
+are treated liberally by the elders, and told to wait and enjoy
+themselves, slaves enough to purchase all will be procured: then a
+foray is made against the Manganja, who have few or no guns. The
+Waiyau who come against them are abundantly supplied with both by
+their coast guests. Several of the low coast Arabs, who differ in
+nothing from the Waiyau, usually accompany the foray, and do business
+on their own account: this is the usual way in which a safari is
+furnished with slaves.
+
+Makanjela, a Waiyau chief about a third of the way from Mtendé's to
+Mataka, has lost the friendship of all his neighbours by kidnapping
+and selling their people; if any of Mataka's people are found in the
+district between Makanjela and Moembé, they are considered fair game
+and sold. Makanjela's people cannot piss Mataka to go to the Manganja,
+so they do what they can by kidnapping and plundering all who fall
+into their hands.
+
+When I employed two of Mataka's people to go back on the 14th with
+food to the havildar and sepoys, they went a little way and relieved
+some, but would not venture as far as the Luatizé, for fear of losing
+their liberty by Makanjela's people. I could not get the people of the
+country to go back; nor could I ask the Nassick boys, who had been
+threatened by the sepoys with assassination,--and it was the same with
+the Johanna men, because, though Mahometans, the sepoys had called
+them Caffirs, &c., and they all declared, "We are ready to do
+anything for you, but we will do nothing for these Hindis." I sent
+back a sepoy, giving him provisions; he sat down in the first village,
+ate all the food, and returned.
+
+An immense tract of country lies uninhabited. To the north-east of
+Moembé we have at least fifty miles of as fine land as can be seen
+anywhere, still bearing all the marks of having once supported a
+prodigious iron-smelting and grain-growing population. The clay pipes
+which are put on the nozzles of their bellows and inserted into the
+furnace are met with everywhere--often vitrified. Then the ridges on
+which they planted maize, beans, cassava, and sorghum, and which they
+find necessary to drain off the too abundant moisture of the rains,
+still remain unlevelled to attest the industry of the former
+inhabitants; the soil being clayey, resists for a long time the
+influence of the weather. These ridges are very regular, for in
+crossing the old fields, as the path often compels us to do, one foot
+treads regularly on the ridge, and the other in the hollow, for a
+considerable distance. Pieces of broken pots, with their rims
+ornamented with very good imitations of basket-work, attest that the
+lady potters of old followed the example given them by their still
+more ancient mothers,--their designs are rude, but better than we can
+make them without referring to the original.
+
+[Illustration: Imitation of basket-work in Pottery.]
+
+No want of water has here acted to drive the people away, as has been
+the case further south. It is a perpetual succession of ridge and
+valley, with a running stream or oozing bog, where ridge is separated
+from ridge: the ridges become steeper and narrower as we approach
+Mataka's.
+
+I counted fifteen running burns of from one to ten yards wide in one
+day's march of about six hours; being in a hilly or rather mountainous
+region, they flow rapidly and have plenty of water-power. In July any
+mere torrent ceases to flow, but these were brawling burns with water
+too cold (61°) for us to bathe in whose pores were all open by the
+relaxing regions nearer the coast. The sound, so un-African, of
+gushing water dashing over rocks was quite familiar to our ears.
+
+This district, which rises up west of Mataka's to 3400 feet above the
+sea, catches a great deal of the moisture brought up by the easterly
+winds. Many of the trees are covered with lichens. While here we had
+cold southerly breezes, and a sky so overcast every day after 10 A.M.,
+that we could take no astronomical observations: even the latitude was
+too poor to be much depended on. 12° 53' S. may have been a few miles
+from this.
+
+The cattle, rather a small breed, black and white in patches, and
+brown, with humps, give milk which is duly prized by these Waiyau. The
+sheep are the large-tailed variety, and generally of a black colour.
+Fowls and pigeons are the only other domestic animals we see, if we
+except the wretched village dogs which our-poodle had immense delight
+in chasing.
+
+The Waiyau are far from a handsome race, but they are not the
+prognathous beings one sees on the West Coast either. Their heads are
+of a round shape; compact foreheads, but not particularly receding;
+the alae nasi are flattened out; lips full, and with the women a small
+lip-ring just turns them up to give additional thickness. Their style
+of beauty is exactly that which was in fashion when the stone deities
+were made in the caves of Elephanta and Kenora near Bombay. Ŕ
+favourite mode of dressing the hair into little knobs, which was in
+fashion there, is more common in some tribes than in this. The mouths
+of the women would not be so hideous with a small lip-ring if they did
+not file their teeth to points, but they seem strong and able for the
+work which falls to their lot. The men are large, strong-boned
+fellows, and capable of enduring great fatigue, they undergo a rite
+which once distinguished the Jews about the age of puberty, and take a
+new name on the occasion; this was not introduced by the Arabs, whose
+advent is a recent event, and they speak of the time before they were
+inundated with European manufactures in exchange for slaves, as quite
+within their memory.
+
+Young Mataka gave me a dish of peas, and usually brought something
+every time he made a visit, he seems a nice boy, and his father, in
+speaking of learning to read, said he and his companions could learn,
+but he himself was too old. The soil seems very fertile, for the sweet
+potatoes become very large, and we bought two loads of them for three
+cubits and two needles; they quite exceeded 1 cwt. The maize becomes
+very large too; one cob had 1600 seeds. The abundance of water, the
+richness of soil, the available labour for building square houses, the
+coolness of the climate, make this nearly as desirable a residence as
+Magomero; but, alas! instead of three weeks' easy sail up the Zambesi
+and Shiré, we have spent four weary months in getting here: I shall
+never cease bitterly to lament the abandonment of the Magomero
+mission.
+
+Moaning seems a favourite way of spending the time with some sick
+folk. For the sake of the warmth, I allowed a Nassick boy to sleep in
+my house; he and I had the same complaint, dysentery, and I was
+certainly worse than he, but did not moan, while he played at it as
+often as he was awake. I told him that people moaned only when too ill
+to be sensible of what they were doing; the groaning ceased, though
+he became worse.
+
+Three sepoys played at groaning very vigorously outside my door; they
+had nothing the matter with them, except perhaps fatigue, which we all
+felt alike; as these fellows prevented my sleeping, I told them quite
+civilly that, if so ill that they required to groan, they had better
+move off a little way, as I could not sleep; they preferred the
+verandah, and at once forbore.
+
+The abundance of grain and other food is accompanied by great numbers
+of rats or large mice, which play all manner of pranks by night; white
+ants have always to be guarded against likewise. Anyone who would find
+an antidote to drive them away would confer a blessing; the natural
+check is the driver ant, which when it visits a house is a great pest
+for a time, but it clears the others out.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[12] There is a double purpose in these murders; the terror inspired
+in the minds of the survivors spurs them on to endure the hardships of
+the march: the Portuese drivers are quite alive to the merits of this
+stimulus.--ED.
+
+[13] A tribal distinction turns on the customs prevailing with respect
+to animal food, _e.g._ one tribe will eat the elephant, the next looks
+on such flesh as unclean, and so with other meat. The neighbouring
+Manganja gladly eat the leopard and hyaena.--ED.
+
+[14] A coloured cloth manufactured expressly for barter in East
+Africa.
+
+[15] This is pronounced "Y-yow."--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Geology and description of the Waiyau land. Leaves Mataka's. The
+    Nyumbo plant. Native iron-foundry. Blacksmiths. Makes for the
+    Lake Nyassa. Delight at seeing the Lake once more. The Manganja
+    or Nyassa tribe. Arab slave crossing. Unable to procure passage
+    across. The Kungu fly. Fear of the English amongst slavers. Lake
+    shore. Blue ink. Chitané changes colour. The Nsaka fish.
+    Makalaosé drinks beer. The Sanjika fish. London antiquities.
+    Lake rivers. Mukaté's. Lake Pamalombé. Mponda's. A slave gang.
+    Wikatani discovers his relatives and remains.
+
+_28th July, 1866._--We proposed to start to-day, but Mataka said that
+he was not ready yet: the flour had to be ground, and he had given us
+no meat. He had sent plenty of cooked food almost every day. He asked
+if we would slaughter the ox he would give here, or take it on; we
+preferred to kill it at once. He came on the 28th with a good lot of
+flour for us, and men to guide us to Nyassa, telling us that this was
+Moembé, and his district extended all the way to the Lake: he would
+not send us to Loséwa, as that place had lately been plundered and
+burned.
+
+In general the chiefs have shown an anxiety to promote our safety. The
+country is a mass of mountains. On leaving Mataka's we ascended
+considerably, and about the end of the first day's march, near
+Magola's village, the barometer showed our greatest altitude, about
+3400 feet above the sea. There were villages of these mountaineers
+everywhere, for the most part of 100 houses or more each. The springs
+were made the most use of that they knew; the damp spots drained, and
+the water given a free channel for use in irrigation further down:
+most of these springs showed the presence of iron by the oxide oozing
+out. A great many patches of peas are seen in full bearing and flower.
+The trees are small, except in the hollows: there is plenty of grass
+and flowers near streams and on the heights. The mountain-tops may
+rise 2000 or 3000 feet above their flanks, along which we wind, going
+perpetually up and down the steep ridges of which the country is but a
+succession.
+
+Looking at the geology of the district, the plateaux on each side of
+the Rovuma are masses of grey sandstone, capped with masses of
+ferruginous conglomerate; apparently an aqueous deposit. When we
+ascend the Rovuma about sixty miles, a great many pieces and blocks of
+silicified wood appear on the surface of the soil at the bottom of the
+slope up the plateaux. This in Africa is a sure indication of the
+presence of coal beneath, but it was not observed cropping out; the
+plateaux are cut up in various directions by wadys well supplied with
+grass and trees on deep and somewhat sandy soil: but at the confluence
+of the Loendi highlands they appear in the far distance. In the sands
+of the Loendi pieces of coal are quite common.[16]
+
+Before reaching the confluence of the Rovuma and Loendi, or say about
+ninety miles from the sea, the plateau is succeeded by a more level
+country, having detached granitic masses shooting up some 500 or 700
+feet. The sandstone of the plateau has at first been hardened, then
+quite metamorphosed into a chocolate-coloured schist. As at Chilolé
+hill, we have igneous rocks, apparently trap, capped with masses of
+beautiful white dolomite. We still ascend in altitude as we go
+westwards, and come upon long tracts of gneiss with hornblende. The
+gneiss is often striated, all the striae looking one way--sometimes
+north and south, and at other times east and west. These rocks look as
+if a stratified rock had been nearly melted, and the strata fused
+together by the heat. From these striated rocks have shot up great
+rounded masses of granite or syenite, whose smooth sides and crowns
+contain scarcely any trees, and are probably from 3000 to 4000 feet
+above the sea. The elevated plains among these mountain masses show
+great patches of ferruginous conglomerate, which, when broken, look
+like yellow haematite with madrepore holes in it: this has made the
+soil of a red colour.
+
+On the watershed we have still the rounded granitic hills jutting
+above the plains (if such they may be called) which are all ups and
+downs, and furrowed with innumerable running rills, the sources of the
+Rovuma and Loendi. The highest rock observed with mica schist was at
+an altitude of 3440 feet. The same uneven country prevails as we
+proceed from the watershed about forty miles down to the Lake, and a
+great deal of quartz in small fragments renders travelling-very
+difficult. Near the Lake, and along its eastern shore, we have mica
+schist and gneiss foliated, with a great deal of hornblende; but the
+most remarkable feature of it is that the rocks are all tilted on
+edge, or slightly inclined to the Lake. The active agent in effecting
+this is not visible. It looks as if a sudden rent had been made, so as
+to form the Lake, and tilt all these rocks nearly over. On the east
+side of the lower part of the Lake we have two ranges of mountains,
+evidently granitic: the nearer one covered with small trees and lower
+than the other; the other jagged and bare, or of the granitic forms.
+But in all this country no fossil-yielding rock was visible except the
+grey sandstone referred to at the beginning of this note. The rocks
+are chiefly the old crystalline forms.
+
+One fine straight tall tree in the hollows seemed a species of fig:
+its fruit was just forming, but it was too high for me to ascertain
+its species. The natives don't eat the fruit, but they eat the large
+grubs which come out of it. The leaves were fifteen inches long by
+five broad: they call it Unguengo.
+
+_29th July, 1866._--At Magola's village. Although we are now rid of
+the sepoys, we cannot yet congratulate ourselves on being rid of the
+lazy habits of lying down in the path which they introduced. A strong
+scud comes up from the south bringing much moisture with it: it blows
+so hard above, this may be a storm on the coast. Temperature in
+mornings 55°.
+
+_30th July, 1866._--A short march brought us to Pezimba's village,
+which consists of 200 houses and huts. It is placed very nicely on a
+knoll between two burns, which, as usual, are made use of for
+irrigating peas in winter time. The headman said that if we left now
+we had a good piece of jungle before us, and would sleep twice in it
+before reaching Mbanga. We therefore remained. An Arab party, hearing
+of our approach, took a circuitous route among the mountains to avoid
+coming in contact with us. In travelling to Pezimba's we had commenced
+our western descent to the Lake, for we were now lower than Magola's
+by 300 feet. We crossed many rivulets and the Lochesi, a good-sized
+stream. The watershed parts some streams for Loendi and some for
+Rovuma. There is now a decided scantiness of trees. Many of the
+hill-tops are covered with grass or another plant; there is pleasure
+now in seeing them bare. Ferns, rhododendrons, and a foliaged tree,
+which looks in the distance like silver-fir, are met with.
+
+The Mandaré root is here called Nyumbo, when cooked it has a slight
+degree of bitterness with it which cultivation may remove. Mica schist
+crowned some of the heights on the watershed, then gneiss, and now, as
+we descend further, we have igneous rocks of more recent eruption,
+porphyry and gneiss, with hornblende. A good deal of ferruginous
+conglomerate, with holes in it, covers many spots; when broken, it
+looks like yellow haematite, with black linings to the holes: this is
+probably the ore used in former times by the smiths, of whose
+existence we now find still more evidence than further east.
+
+_31st July, 1866._--I had presented Pezimba with a cloth, so he cooked
+for us handsomely last night, and this morning desired us to wait a
+little as he had not yet sufficient meal made to present: we waited
+and got a generous present.
+
+It was decidedly milder here than at Mataka's, and we had a clear sky.
+In our morning's march we passed the last of the population, and went
+on through a fine well-watered fruitful country, to sleep near a
+mountain called Mtéwiré, by a stream called Msapo. A very large Arab
+slave-party was close by our encampment, and I wished to speak to
+them; but as soon as they knew of our being near they set off in a
+pathless course across country, and were six days in the
+wilderness.[17]
+
+_1st August, 1866._--We saw the encampment of another Arab party. It
+consisted of ten pens, each of which, from the number of fires it
+contained, may have held from eighty to a hundred slaves. The people
+of the country magnified the numbers, saying that they would reach
+from this to Mataka's; but from all I can learn, I think that from 300
+to 800 slaves is the commoner gang. This second party went across
+country very early this morning. We saw the fire-sticks which the
+slaves had borne with them. The fear they feel is altogether the
+effect of the English name, for we have done nothing to cause their
+alarm.
+
+_2nd August, 1866._--There was something very cheering to me in the
+sight at our encampment of yellow grass and trees dotted over it, as
+in the Bechuana country. The birds were singing merrily too, inspired
+by the cold, which was 47°, and by the vicinity of some population.
+Gum-copal trees and bushes grow here as well as all over the country;
+but gum is never dug for, probably because the trees were never large
+enough to yield the fossil gum. Marks of smiths are very abundant and
+some furnaces are still standing. Much cultivation must formerly have
+been where now all is jungle.
+
+We arrived at Mbanga, a village embowered in trees, chiefly of the
+euphorbia, so common in the Manganja country further south. Kandulo,
+the headman, had gone to drink beer at another village, but sent
+orders to give a hut and to cook for us. We remained next day. Took
+lunars.
+
+We had now passed through, at the narrowest part, the hundred miles of
+depopulated country, of which about seventy are on the N.E. of Mataka.
+The native accounts differ as to the cause. Some say slave wars, and
+assert that the Makoa from the vicinity of Mozambique played an
+important part in them; others say famine; others that the people have
+moved to and beyond Nyassa.[18] Certain it is, from the potsherds
+strewed over the country, and the still remaining ridges on which
+beans, sorghum, maize, and cassava, were planted, that the departed
+population was prodigious. The Waiyau, who are now in the country,
+came from the other side of the Rovuma, and they probably supplanted
+the Manganja, an operation which we see going on at the present day.
+
+_4th August, 1866._--An hour and a half brought us to Miulé, a village
+on the same level with Mbanga; and the chief pressing us to stay, on
+the plea of our sleeping two nights in the jungle, instead of one if
+we left early next morning, we consented. I asked him what had become
+of the very large iron-smelting population of this region; he said
+many had died of famine, others had fled to the west of Nyassa: the
+famine is the usual effect of slave wars, and much death is thereby
+caused--probably much more than by the journey to the coast. He had
+never heard any tradition of stone hatchets having been used, nor of
+stone spear-heads or arrowheads of that material, nor had he heard of
+any being turned up by the women in hoeing. The Makondé, as we saw,
+use wooden spears where iron is scarce. I saw wooden hoes used for
+tilling the soil in the Bechuana and Bataka countries, but never stone
+ones. In 1841 I saw a Bushwoman in the Cape Colony with a round stone
+and a hole through it; on being asked she showed me how it was used by
+inserting the top of a digging-stick into it, and digging a root. The
+stone was to give the stick weight.
+
+[Illustration.]
+
+The stones still used as anvils and sledge-hammers by many of the
+African smiths, when considered from their point of view, show sounder
+sense than if they were burdened with the great weights we use. They
+are unacquainted with the process of case-hardening, which, applied to
+certain parts of our anvils, gives them their usefulness, and an anvil
+of their soft iron would not do so well as a hard stone. It is true a
+small light one might be made, but let any one see how the hammers of
+their iron bevel over and round in the faces with a little work, and
+he will perceive that only a wild freak would induce any sensible
+native smith to make a mass equal to a sledge-hammer, and burden
+himself with a weight for what can be better performed by a stone. If
+people are settled, as on the coast, then they gladly use any mass of
+cast iron they may find, but never where, as in the interior, they
+have no certainty of remaining any length of time in one spot.
+
+_5th August, 1866._--We left Miulé, and commenced our march towards
+Lake Nyassa, and slept at the last of the streams that flow to the
+Loendi. In Mataka's vicinity, N.E., there is a perfect brush of
+streams flowing to that river: one forms a lake in its course, and the
+sources of the Rovuma lie in the same region. After leaving Mataka's
+we crossed a good-sized one flowing to Loendi, and, the day after
+leaving Pezimba's, another going to the Chiringa or Lochiringa, which
+is a tributary of the Rovuma.
+
+_6th August, 1866._--We passed two cairns this morning at the
+beginning of the very sensible descent to the Lake. They are very
+common in all this Southern Africa in the passes of the mountains, and
+are meant to mark divisions of countries, perhaps burial-places, but
+the Waiyau who accompanied us thought that they were merely heaps of
+stone collected by some one making a garden. The cairns were placed
+just about the spot where the blue waters of Nyassa first came fairly
+into view.
+
+We now came upon a stream, the Misinjé, flowing into the Lake, and we
+crossed it five times; it was about twenty yards wide, and thigh deep.
+We made but short stages when we got on the lower plateau, for the
+people had great abundance of food, and gave large presents of it if
+we rested. One man gave four fowls, three large baskets of maize,
+pumpkins, eland's fat--a fine male, as seen by his horns,--and pressed
+us to stay, that he might see our curiosities as well as others. He
+said that at one day's distance south of him all sorts of animals, as
+buffaloes, elands, elephants, hippopotami, and antelopes, could be
+shot.
+
+_8th August, 1866._--We came to the Lake at the confluence of the
+Misinjé, and felt grateful to That Hand which had protected us thus
+far on our journey. It was as if I had come back to an old home I
+never expected again to see; and pleasant to bathe in the delicious
+waters again, hear the roar of the sea, and dash in the rollers. Temp.
+71° at 8 A.M., while the air was 65°. I feel quite exhilarated.
+
+The headman here, Mokalaosé, is a real Manganja, and he and all his
+people exhibit the greater darkness of colour consequent on being in a
+warm moist climate; he is very friendly, and presented millet,
+porridge, cassava, and hippopotamus meat boiled and asked if I liked
+milk, as he had some of Mataka's cattle here. His people bring sanjika
+the best Lake fish, for sale; they are dried on stages over slow
+fires, and lose their fine flavour by it, but they are much prized
+inland. I bought fifty for a fathom of calico; when fresh, they taste
+exactly like the best herrings, _i.e._ as we think, but voyagers' and
+travellers' appetites are often so whetted as to be incapable of
+giving a true verdict in matters of taste.
+
+[It is necessary to explain that Livingstone knew of an Arab
+settlement on the western shore of the Lake, and that he hoped to
+induce the chief man Jumbé to give him a passage to the other side.]
+
+_10th August, 1866._--I sent Seyed Majid's letter up to Jumbé, but the
+messenger met some coast Arabs at the Loangwa, which may be seven
+miles from this, and they came back with him, haggling a deal about
+the fare, and then went off, saying that they would bring the dhow
+here for us. Finding that they did not come, I sent Musa, who brought
+back word that they had taken the dhow away over to Jumbé at Kotakota,
+or, as they pronounce it, Ngotagota. Very few of the coast Arabs can
+read; in words they are very polite, but truthfulness seems very
+little regarded. I am resting myself and people--working up journal,
+lunars, and altitudes--but will either move south or go to the Arabs
+towards the north soon.
+
+Mokalaosé's fears of the Waiyau will make him welcome Jumbé here, and
+then the Arab will some day have an opportunity of scattering his
+people as he has done those at Kotakota. He has made Loséwa too hot
+for himself. When the people there were carried off by Mataka's
+people, Jumbé seized their stores of grain, and now has no post to
+which he can go there. The Loangwa Arabs give an awful account of
+Jumbé's murders and selling the people, but one cannot take it all in;
+at the mildest it must have been bad. This is all they ever do; they
+cannot form a state or independent kingdom: slavery and the
+slave-trade are insuperable obstacles to any permanence inland; slaves
+can escape so easily, all therefore that the Arabs do is to collect as
+much money as they can by hook and by crook, and then leave the
+country.
+
+We notice a bird called namtambwé, which sings very nicely with a
+strong voice after dark here at the Misinjé confluence.
+
+_11th August, 1866._--Two headmen came down country from villages
+where we slept, bringing us food, and asking how we are treated; they
+advise our going south to Mukaté's, where the Lake is narrow.
+
+_12th-14th August, 1866._--Map making; but my energies were sorely
+taxed by the lazy sepoys, and I was usually quite tired out at night.
+Some men have come down from Mataka's, and report the arrival of an
+Englishman with cattle for me, "he has two eyes behind as well as two
+in front:" this is enough of news for awhile!
+
+Mokalaosé has his little afflictions, and he tells me of them. A wife
+ran away, I asked how many he had; he told me twenty in all: I then
+thought he had nineteen too many. He answered with the usual reason,
+"But who would cook for strangers if I had but one?"
+
+We saw clouds of "kungu" gnats on the Lake; they are not eaten here.
+An ungenerous traveller coming here with my statement in his hand,
+and finding the people denying all knowledge of how to catch and cook
+them, might say that I had been romancing in saying I had seen them
+made into cakes in the northern part of the Lake; when asking here
+about them, a stranger said, "They know how to use them in the north;
+we do not."
+
+Mokalaosé thinks that the Arabs are afraid that I may take their dhows
+from them and go up to the north. He and the other headmen think that
+the best way will be to go to Mukaté's in the south. All the Arabs
+flee from me, the English name being in their minds inseparably
+connected with recapturing slavers: they cannot conceive that I have
+any other object in view; they cannot read Seyed Majid's letter.
+
+_21st August, 1866._--Started for the Loangwa, on the east side of the
+Lake; hilly all the way, about seven miles. This river may be twenty
+yards wide near its confluence; the Misinjé is double that: each has
+accumulated a promontory of deposit and enters the Lake near its apex.
+We got a house from a Waiyau man on a bank about forty feet above the
+level of Nyassa, but I could not sleep for the manoeuvres of a crowd
+of the minute ants which infested it. They chirrup distinctly; they
+would not allow the men to sleep either, though all were pretty tired
+by the rough road up.
+
+_22nd August, 1866._--We removed to the south side of the Loangwa,
+where there are none of these little pests.
+
+_23rd August, 1866._--Proposed to the Waiyau headman to send a canoe
+over to call Jumbé, as I did not believe in the assertions of the
+half-caste Arab here that he had sent for his. All the Waiyau had
+helped me, and why not he? He was pleased with this, but advised
+waiting till a man sent to Loséwa should return.
+
+_24th August, 1866._--A leopard took a dog out of a house next to
+ours; he had bitten a man before, but not mortally. _29th August,
+1866._--News come that the two dhows have come over to Loséwa
+(Loséfa). The Mazitu had chased Jumbé up the hills: had they said, on
+to an island, I might have believed them.
+
+_30th August,1866._--The fear which the English have inspired in the
+Arab slave-traders is rather inconvenient. All flee from me as if I
+had the plague, and I cannot in consequence transmit letters to the
+coast, or get across the Lake. They seem to think that if I get into a
+dhow I will be sure to burn it. As the two dhows on the Lake are used
+for nothing else but the slave-trade, their owners have no hope of my
+allowing them to escape, so after we have listened to various lies as
+excuses, we resolve to go southwards, and cross at the point of
+departure of the Shiré from the Lake. I took lunars several times on
+both sides of the moon, and have written a despatch for Lord
+Clarendon, besides a number of private letters.
+
+_3rd September, 1866._--Went down to confluence of the Misinjé and
+came to many of the eatable insect "kungu,"--they are caught by a
+quick motion of the hand holding a basket. We got a cake of these same
+insects further down; they make a buzz like a swarm of bees, and are
+probably the perfect state of some Lake insect.
+
+I observed two beaches of the Lake: one about fifteen feet above the
+present high-water mark, and the other about forty above that; but
+between the two the process of disintegration, which results from the
+sudden cold and heat in these regions, has gone on so much that seldom
+is a well-rounded smoothed one seen; the lower beach is very well
+marked.
+
+The strike of large masses of foliated gneiss is parallel with the
+major axis of the Lake, and all are tilted on edge. Some are a little
+inclined to the Lake, as if dipping to it westwards, but others are as
+much inclined the opposite way, or twisted.
+
+I made very good blue ink from the juice of a berry, the fruit of a
+creeper, which is the colour of port wine when expressed. A little
+ferri carb. ammon., added to this is all that is required.
+
+The poodle dog Chitané is rapidly changing the colour of its hair. All
+the parts corresponding to the ribs and neck are rapidly becoming red;
+the majority of country dogs are of this colour.
+
+The Manganja, or Wa-nyassa, are an aboriginal race; they have great
+masses of hair, and but little, if any, of the prognathous in the
+profile. Their bodies and limbs are very well made, and the
+countenance of the men is often very pleasant. The women are very
+plain and lumpy, but exceedingly industrious in their gardens from
+early morning till about 11 A.M., then from 3 P.M. till dark, or
+pounding corn and grinding it: the men make twine or nets by day, and
+are at their fisheries in the evenings and nights. They build the
+huts, the women plaster them.
+
+A black fish, the Nsaka, makes a hole, with raised edges, which, with
+the depth from which they are taken, is from fifteen to eighteen
+inches, and from two to three feet broad. It is called by the natives
+their house. The pair live in it for some time, or until the female
+becomes large for spawning; this operation over, the house is left.
+
+I gave Mokalaosé some pumpkin seed and peas. He took me into his
+house, and presented a quantity of beer. I drank a little, and seeing
+me desist from taking more, he asked if I wished a servant-girl to
+"_pata mimba_." Not knowing what was meant, I offered the girl the
+calabash of beer, and told her to drink, but this was not the
+intention. He asked if I did not wish more; and then took the vessel,
+and as he drank the girl performed the operation on himself. Placing
+herself in front, she put both hands round his waist below the short
+ribs, and pressing gradually drew them round to his belly in front.
+He took several prolonged draughts, and at each she repeated the
+operation, as if to make the liquor go equally over the stomach. Our
+topers don't seem to have discovered the need for this.
+
+_5th September, 1866._--Our march is along the shore to Ngombo
+promontory, which approaches so near to Senga or Tsenga opposite, as
+to narrow the Lake to some sixteen or eighteen miles. It is a low
+sandy point, the edge fringed on the north-west and part of the south
+with a belt of papyrus and reeds; the central parts wooded. Part of
+the south side has high sandy dunes, blown up by the south wind, which
+strikes it at right angles there. One was blowing as we marched along
+the southern side eastwards, and was very tiresome. We reached
+Panthunda's village by a brook called Lilolé. Another we crossed
+before coming to it is named Libesa: these brooks form the favourite
+spawning grounds of the sanjika and mpasa, two of the best fishes of
+the Lake. The sanjika is very like our herring in shape and taste and
+size; the mpasa larger every way: both live on green herbage formed at
+the bottom of the Lake and rivers.
+
+_7th September, 1866._--Chirumba's village being on the south side of
+a long lagoon, we preferred sleeping on the mainland, though they
+offered their cranky canoes to ferry us over. This lagoon is called
+Pansangwa.
+
+_8th September, 1866._--In coming along the southern side of Ngombo
+promontory we look eastwards, but when we leave it we turn southwards,
+having a double range of lofty mountains on our left. These are
+granitic in form, the nearer range being generally the lowest, and
+covered with scraggy trees; the second, or more easterly, is some 6000
+feet above the sea, bare and rugged, with jagged peaks shooting high
+into the air. This is probably the newest range. The oldest people
+have felt no earthquake, but some say that they have heard of such
+things from their elders.
+
+We passed very many sites of old villages, which are easily known by
+the tree euphorbia planted round an umbelliferous one, and the sacred
+fig. One species here throws out strong buttresses in the manner of
+some mangroves instead of sending down twiners which take root, as is
+usually the ease with the tropical fig. These, with millstones--stones
+for holding the pots in cooking--and upraised clay benches, which have
+been turned into brick by fire in the destruction of the huts, show
+what were once the "pleasant haunts of men." No stone implements ever
+appear. If they existed they could not escape notice, since the eyes
+in walking are almost always directed to the ground to avoid stumbling
+on stones or stumps. In some parts of the world stone implements are
+so common they seem to have been often made and discarded as soon as
+formed, possibly by getting better tools; if, indeed, the manufacture
+is not as modern as that found by Mr. Waller. Passing some navvies in
+the City who were digging for the foundation of a house, he observed a
+very antique-looking vase, wet from the clay, standing on the bank. He
+gave ten shillings for it, and subsequently, by the aid of a scrubbing
+brush and some water, detected the hieroglyphics "Copeland late Spode"
+on the bottom of it!
+
+Here the destruction is quite recent, and has been brought about by
+some who entertained us very hospitably on the Misinjé, before we came
+to the confluence. The woman chief, Ulenjelenjé, or Njelenjé, bore a
+part in it for the supply of Arab caravans. It was the work of the
+Masininga, a Waiyau tribe, of which her people form a part. They
+almost depopulated the broad fertile tract, of some three or four
+miles, between the mountain range and the Lake, along which our course
+lay. It was wearisome to see the skulls and bones scattered about
+everywhere; one would fain not notice them, but they are so striking
+as one trudges along the sultry path, that it cannot be avoided.
+
+_9th September, 1866._--We spent Sunday at Kandango's village. The men
+killed a hippopotamus when it was sleeping on the shore; a full-grown
+female, 10 feet 9 inches from the snout to the insertion of the tail,
+and 4 feet 4 inches high at the withers. The bottom here and all along
+southwards now is muddy. Many of the _Siluris Glanis_ are caught equal
+in length to an eleven or a twelve-pound salmon, but a great portion
+is head; slowly roasted on a stick stuck in the ground before the fire
+they seemed to me much more savoury than I ever tasted them before.
+With the mud we have many shells: north of Ngombo scarcely one can be
+seen, and there it is sandy or rocky.
+
+_10th September, 1866._--In marching southwards we came close to the
+range (the Lake lies immediately on the other side of it), but we
+could not note the bays which it forms; we crossed two mountain
+torrents from sixty to eighty yards broad, and now only ankle deep. In
+flood these bring down enormous trees, which are much battered and
+bruised among the rocks in their course; they spread over the plain,
+too, and would render travelling here in the rains impracticable.
+After spending the night at a very civil headman's chefu, we crossed
+the Lotendé, another of these torrents: each very lofty mass in the
+range seemed to give rise to one. Nothing of interest occurred as we
+trudged along. A very poor headman, Pamawawa, presented a roll of salt
+instead of food: this was grateful to us, as we have been without that
+luxury some time.
+
+_12th September, 1866._--We crossed the rivulet Nguena, and then went
+on to another with a large village by it, it is called Pantoza
+Pangone. The headman had been suffering from sore eyes for four
+months, and pressed me to stop and give him medicine, which I did.
+
+_13th September, 1866._--We crossed a strong brook called Nkoré. My
+object in mentioning the brooks which were flowing at this time, and
+near the end of the dry season, is to give an idea of the sources of
+supply of evaporation. The men enumerate the following, north of the
+Misinjé. Those which are greater are marked thus +, and the lesser
+ones -.
+
+     1. Misinjé + has canoes.
+     2. Loangwa -
+     3. Leséfa -
+     4. Lelula -
+     5. Nchamanjé -
+     6. Musumba +
+     7. Fubwé +
+     8. Chia -
+     9. Kisanga +
+    10. Bweka -
+    11. Chifumero + has canoes.
+    12. Loangwa -
+    13. Mkoho -
+    14. Mangwelo - at N. end of Lake.
+
+Including the above there are twenty or twenty-four perennial brooks
+and torrents which give a good supply of water in the dry season; in
+the wet season they are supplemented by a number of burns, which,
+though flowing now, have their mouths blocked up with bars of sand,
+and yield nothing except by percolation; the Lake rises at least four
+feet perpendicularly in the wet season, and has enough during the year
+from these perennial brooks to supply the Shiré's continual flow.
+
+[It will be remembered that the beautiful river Shiré carries off the
+waters of Lake Nyassa and joins the Zambesi near Mount Morambala,
+about ninety miles from the sea. It is by this water-way that
+Livingstone always hoped to find an easy access to Central Africa.
+The only obstacles that exist are, first, the foolish policy of the
+Portuguese with regard to Customs' duties at the mouth of the Zambesi;
+and secondly, a succession of cataracts on the Shiré, which impede
+navigation for seventy miles. The first hindrance may give way under
+more liberal views than those which prevail at present at the Court of
+Lisbon, and then the remaining difficulty--accepted as a fact--will be
+solved by the establishment of a boat service both above and below the
+cataracts. Had Livingstone survived he would have been cheered by
+hearing that already several schemes are afoot to plant Missions in
+the vicinity of Lake Nyassa, and we may with confidence look to the
+revival of the very enterprise which he presently so bitterly deplores
+as a thing of the past, for Bishop Steere has fully determined to
+re-occupy the district in which fell his predecessor, Bishop
+Mackenzie, and others attached to the Universities Mission.]
+
+In the course of this day's march we were pushed close to the Lake by
+Mount Gomé, and, being now within three miles of the end of the Lake,
+we could see the whole plainly. There we first saw the Shiré emerge,
+and there also we first gazed on the broad waters of Nyassa.
+
+Many hopes have been disappointed here. Far down on the right bank of
+the Zambesi lies the dust of her whose death changed all my future
+prospects; and now, instead of a check being given to the slave-trade
+by lawful commerce on the Lake, slave-dhows prosper!
+
+An Arab slave-party fled on hearing of us yesterday. It is impossible
+not to regret the loss of good Bishop Mackenzie, who sleeps far down
+the Shiré, and with him all hope of the Gospel being introduced into
+Central Africa. The silly abandonment of all the advantages of the
+Shiré route by the Bishop's successor I shall ever bitterly deplore,
+but all will come right some day, though I may not live to
+participate in the joy, or even see the commencement of better times.
+
+In the evening we reached the village of Cherekalongwa on the brook
+Pamchololo, and were very jovially received by the headman with beer.
+He says that Mukaté,[19] Kabinga, and Mponda alone supply the
+slave-traders now by raids on the Manganja, but they go S.W. to the
+Maravi, who, impoverished by a Mazitu raid, sell each other as well.
+
+_14th, September, 1866._--At Cherekalongwa's (who has a skin disease,
+believed by him to have been derived from eating fresh-water turtles),
+we were requested to remain one day in order that he might see us. He
+had heard much about us; had been down the Shiré, and as far as
+Mosambique, but never had an Englishman in his town before. As the
+heat is great we were glad of the rest and beer, with which he very
+freely supplied us.
+
+I saw the skin of a Phenembe, a species of lizard which devours
+chickens; here it is named Salka. It had been flayed by a cut up the
+back--body, 12 inches; across belly, 10 inches.
+
+After nearly giving up the search for Dr. Roscher's point of reaching
+the Lake--because no one, either Arab or native, had the least idea of
+either Nusseewa or Makawa, the name given to the place--I discovered
+it in Lesséfa, the accentuated _é_ being sounded as our _e_ in _set_.
+This word would puzzle a German philologist, as being the origin of
+Nussewa, but the Waiyau pronounce it Loséwa, the Arabs Lusséwa, and
+Roscher's servant transformed the _L_ and _é_ into _N_ and _ee_, hence
+Nusseewa. In confirmation of this rivulet Leséfa, which is opposite
+Kotakota, or, as the Arabs pronounce it, Nkotakota, the chief is
+Mangkaka (Makawa), or as there is a confusion of names as to chief it
+may be Mataka, whose town and district is called Moembé, the town
+Pamoembe = Mamemba.
+
+I rest content with Kingomango so far verifying the place at which he
+arrived two months after we had discovered Lake Nyassa. He deserved
+all the credit due to finding the way thither, but he travelled as an
+Arab, and no one suspected him to be anything else. Our visits have
+been known far and wide, and great curiosity excited; but Dr. Roscher
+merits the praise only of preserving his _incognito_ at a distance
+from Kilwa: his is almost the only case known of successfully assuming
+the Arab guise--Burckhardt is the exception. When Mr. Palgrave came to
+Muscat, or a town in Oman where our political agent Col. Desborough
+was stationed, he was introduced to that functionary by an interpreter
+as Hajee Ali, &c. Col. Desborough replied, "You are no Hajee Ali, nor
+anything else but Gifford Palgrave, with whom I was schoolfellow at
+the Charter House." Col. Desborough said he knew him at once, from a
+peculiar way of holding his head, and Palgrave begged him not to
+disclose his real character to his interpreter, on whom, and some
+others, he had been imposing. I was told this by Mr. Dawes, a
+Lieutenant in the Indian navy, who accompanied Colonel Pelly in his
+visit to the Nejed, Riad, &c, and took observations for him.
+
+_Tańgaré_ is the name of a rather handsome bean, which possesses
+intoxicating qualities. To extract these it is boiled, then peeled,
+and new water supplied: after a second and third boiling it is
+pounded, and the meal taken to the river and the water allowed to
+percolate through it several times. Twice cooking still leaves the
+intoxicating quality; but if eaten then it does not cause death: it is
+curious that the natives do not use it expressly to produce
+intoxication. When planted near a tree it grows all over it, and
+yields abundantly: the skin of the pod is velvety, like our broad
+beans.
+
+Another bean, with a pretty white mark on it, grows freely, and is
+easily cooked, and good: it is here called _Gwingwiza_.
+
+_15th September, 1866._--We were now a short distance south of the
+Lake, and might have gone west to Mosauka's (called by some Pasauka's)
+to cross the Shiré there, but I thought that my visit to Mukaté's, a
+Waiyau chief still further south, might do good. He, Mponda, and
+Kabinga, are the only three chiefs who still carry on raids against
+the Manganja at the instigation of the coast Arabs, and they are now
+sending periodical marauding parties to the Maravi (here named Malola)
+to supply the Kilwa slave-traders. We marched three hours southwards,
+then up the hills of the range which flanks all the lower part of the
+Lake. The altitude of the town is about 800 feet above the Lake. The
+population near the chief is large, and all the heights as far as the
+eye can reach are crowned with villages. The second range lies a few
+miles off, and is covered with trees as well as the first, the nearest
+high mass is Mańgoché. The people live amidst plenty. All the chiefs
+visited by the Arabs have good substantial square houses built for
+their accommodation. Mukaté never saw a European before, and
+everything about us is an immense curiosity to him and to his people.
+We had long visits from him. He tries to extract a laugh out of every
+remark. He is darker than the generality of Waiyau, with a full beard
+trained on the chin, as all the people hereabouts have--Arab fashion.
+The courts of his women cover a large space, our house being on one
+side of them. I tried to go out that way, but wandered, so the ladies
+sent a servant to conduct me out in the direction I wished to go, and
+we found egress by passing through some huts with two doors in them.
+
+_16th September, 1866._--At Mukaté's. The Prayer Book does not give
+ignorant persons any idea of an unseen Being addressed, it looks more
+like reading or speaking to the book: kneeling and praying with eyes
+shut is better than, our usual way of holding Divine service.
+
+We had a long discussion about the slave-trade. The Arabs have told
+the chief that our object in capturing slavers is to get them into our
+own possession, and make them of our own religion. The evils which we
+have seen--the skulls, the ruined villages, the numbers who perish on
+the way to the coast and on the sea, the wholesale murders committed
+by the Waiyau to build up Arab villages elsewhere--these things Mukaté
+often tried to turn off with a laugh, but our remarks are safely
+lodged in many hearts. Next day, as we went along, our guide
+spontaneously delivered their substance to the different villages
+along our route. Before we reached him, a headman, in convoying me a
+mile or two, whispered to me, "Speak to Mukaté to give his forays up."
+
+It is but little we can do, but we lodge a protest in the heart
+against a vile system, and time may ripen it. Their great argument is,
+"What could we do without Arab cloth?" My answer is, "Do what you did
+before the Arabs came into the country." At the present rate of
+destruction of population, the whole country will soon be a desert.
+
+An earthquake happened here last year, that is about the end of it or
+beginning of this (the crater on the Grand. Comoro Island smoked for
+three months about that time); it shook all the houses and everything,
+but they observed no other effects.[20] No hot springs are known here.
+
+_17th September, 1866._--We marched down from Mukaté's and to about
+the middle of the Lakelet Pamalombé. Mukaté had no people with canoes
+near the usual crossing place, and he sent a messenger to see that we
+were fairly served. Here we got the Manganja headmen to confess that
+an earthquake had happened; all the others we have inquired of have
+denied it; why, I cannot conceive. The old men said that they had felt
+earthquakes twice, once near sunset and the next time at night--they
+shook everything, and were accompanied with noise, and all the fowls
+cackled; there was no effect on the Lake observed. They profess
+ignorance of any tradition of the water having stood higher. Their
+traditions say that they came originally from the west, or west
+north-west, which they call "Maravi;" and that their forefathers
+taught them to make nets and kill fish. They have no trace of any
+teaching by a higher instructor; no carvings or writings on the rocks;
+and they never heard of a book until we came among them. Their
+forefathers never told them that after or at death they went to God,
+but they had heard it said of such a one who died, "God took him."
+
+_18th September, 1866._--We embarked the whole party in eight canoes,
+and went up the Lake to the point of junction between it and the
+prolongation of Nyassa above it, called Massangano ("meetings"), which
+took us two hours. A fishing party there fled on seeing us, though we
+shouted that we were a travelling party (or "Olendo ").
+
+Mukaté's people here left us, and I walked up to the village of the
+fugitives with one attendant only. Their suspicions were so thoroughly
+aroused that they would do nothing. The headman (Pima) was said to be
+absent; they could not lend us a hut, but desired us to go on to
+Mponda's. We put up a shed for ourselves, and next morning, though we
+pressed them for a guide, no one would come.
+
+From Pima's village we had a fine view of Pamalombé and the range of
+hills on its western edge, the range which flanks the lower part of
+Nyassa,--on part of which Mukaté lives,--the gap of low land south of
+it behind which Shirwa Lake lies, and Chikala and Zomba nearly due
+south from us. People say hippopotami come from Lake Shirwa into Lake
+Nyassa. There is a great deal of vegetation in Pamalombé, gigantic
+rushes, duckweed, and great quantities of aquatic plants on the
+bottom; one slimy translucent plant is washed ashore in abundance.
+Fish become very fat on these plants; one called "kadiakola" I eat
+much of; it has a good mass of flesh on it.
+
+It is probable that the people of Lake Tanganyika and Nyassa, and
+those on the Rivers Shiré and Zambesi, are all of one stock, for the
+dialects vary very little.[21] I took observations on this point. An
+Arab slave-party, hearing of us, decamped.
+
+_19th September, 1866._--When we had proceeded a mile this morning we
+came to 300 or 400 people making salt on a plain impregnated with it.
+They lixiviate the soil and boil the water, which has filtered through
+a bunch of grass in a hole in the bottom of a pot, till all is
+evaporated and a mass of salt left. We held along the plain till we
+came to Mponda's, a large village, with a stream running past. The
+plain at the village is very fertile, and has many large trees on it.
+The cattle of Mponda are like fatted Madagascar beasts, and the hump
+seems as if it would weigh 100 lbs.[22] The size of body is so
+enormous that their legs, as remarked by our men, seemed very small.
+Mponda is a blustering sort of person, but immensely interested in
+everything European. He says that he would like to go with me. "Would
+not care though he were away ten years." I say that he may die in the
+journey.--"He will die here as well as there, but he will see all the
+wonderful doings of our country." He knew me, having come to the boat,
+to take a look _incognito_ when we were here formerly.
+
+We found an Arab slave-party here, and went to look at the slaves;
+seeing this; Mponda was alarmed lest we should proceed to violence in
+his town, but I said to him that we went to look only. Eighty-five
+slaves were in a pen formed of dura stalks _(Holcus sorghum_). The
+majority were boys of about eight or ten years of age; others were
+grown men and women. Nearly all were in the taming-stick; a few of the
+younger ones were in thongs, the thong passing round the neck of each.
+Several pots were on the fires cooking dura and beans. A crowd went
+with us, expecting a scene, but I sat down, and asked a few questions
+about the journey, in front. The slave-party consisted of five or six
+half-caste coast Arabs, who said that they came from Zanzibar; but the
+crowd made such a noise that we could not hear ourselves speak. I
+asked if they had any objections to my looking at the slaves, the
+owners pointed out the different slaves, and said that after feeding
+them, and accounting for the losses in the way to the coast, they made
+little by the trip. I suspect that the gain is made by those who ship
+them to the ports of Arabia, for at Zanzibar most of the younger
+slaves we saw went at about seven dollars a head. I said to them it
+was a bad business altogether. They presented fowls to me in the
+evening.
+
+_20th September, 1866._--The chief begged so hard that I would stay
+another day and give medicine to a sick child, that I consented. He
+promised plenty of food, and, as an earnest of his sincerity, sent an
+immense pot of beer in the evening. The child had been benefited by
+the medicine given yesterday. He offered more food than we chose to
+take.
+
+The agricultural class does not seem to be a servile one: all
+cultivate, and the work is esteemed. The chief was out at his garden
+when we arrived, and no disgrace is attached to the field labourer.
+The slaves very likely do the chief part of the work, but all engage
+in it, and are proud of their skill. Here a great deal of grain is
+raised, though nearly all the people are Waiyau or Machinga. This is
+remarkable, as they have till lately been marauding and moving from
+place to place. The Manganja possessed the large breed of humped
+cattle which fell into the hands of the Waiyau, and knew how to milk
+them. Their present owners never milk them, and they have dwindled
+into a few instead of the thousands of former times.[23]
+
+A lion killed a woman early yesterday morning, and ate most of her
+undisturbed.
+
+It is getting very hot; the ground to the feet of the men "burns like
+fire" after noon, so we are now obliged to make short marches, and
+early in the morning chiefly.
+
+Wikatani--Bishop Mackenzie's favourite boy--met a brother here, and he
+finds that he has an elder brother and a sister at Kabinga's. The
+father who sold him into slavery is dead. He wishes to stop with his
+relatives, and it will be well if he does. Though he has not much to
+say, what he does advance against the slave-trade will have its
+weight, and it will all be in the way of preparation for better times
+and more light.
+
+The elder brother was sent for, but had not arrived when it was
+necessary for us to leave Mponda's on the Rivulet Ntemangokwé. I
+therefore gave Wikatani some cloth, a flint gun instead of the
+percussion one he carried, some flints, paper to write upon, and
+commended him to Mponda's care till his relatives arrived. He has
+lately shown a good deal of levity, and perhaps it is best that he
+should have a touch of what the world is in reality.
+
+[In a letter written about this time Dr. Livingstone, in speaking of
+Wikatani, says, "He met with a brother, and found that he had two
+brothers and one or two sisters living down at the western shore of
+Lake Pamelombé under Kabinga. He thought that his relatives would not
+again sell him. I had asked him if he wished to remain, and he at once
+said yes, so I did not attempt to dissuade him: his excessive levity
+will perhaps be cooled by marriage. I think he may do good by telling
+some of what he has seen and heard. I asked him if he would obey an
+order from his chief to hunt the Manganja, and he said, 'No.' I hope
+he won't. In the event of any mission coming into the country of
+Mataka, he will go there. I gave him paper to write to you,[24] and,
+commending him to the chiefs, bade the poor boy farewell. I was sorry
+to part with him, but the Arabs tell the Waiyau chiefs that our object
+in liberating slaves is to make them our own and turn them to our
+religion. I had declared to them, through Wikatani as interpreter,
+that they never became our slaves, and were at liberty to go back to
+their relatives if they liked; and now it was impossible to object to
+Wikatani going without stultifying my own statements." It is only
+necessary to repeat that Wikatani and Chuma had been liberated from
+the slavers by Dr. Livingstone and Bishop Mackenzie in 1861; they were
+mere children when set free.
+
+We must not forget to record the fact that when Mr. Young reached
+Maponda, two years afterwards, to ascertain whether the Doctor really
+had been murdered, as Musa declared, he was most hospitably received
+by the chief, who had by this time a great appreciation of everything
+English.]
+
+The lines of tattoo of the different tribes serve for ornaments, and
+are resorted to most by the women; it is a sort of heraldry closely
+resembling the Highland tartans.
+
+[Illustration: Manganja and Machinga women (from a Drawing by the late
+Dr. Meller).]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[16] Coal was shown to a group of natives when first the _Pioneer_
+ascended the river Shiré. Members of numerous tribes were present, and
+all recognised it at once as Makala or coal.--ED.
+
+[17] Dr. Livingstone heard this subsequently when at Casembe's.
+
+[18] The greater part were driven down into the Manganja country by
+war and famine combined, and eventually filled the slave gangs of the
+Portuguese, whose agents went from Tette and Senna to procure
+them.--ED.
+
+[19] Pronounced Mkata by the Waiyau.--ED.
+
+[20] Earthquakes are by no means uncommon. A slight shock was felt in
+1861 at Magomero; on asking the natives if they knew the cause of it,
+they replied that on one occasion, after a very severe earthquake
+which shook boulders off the mountains, all the wise men of the
+country assembled to talk about it and came to the following
+conclusion, that a star had fallen from heaven into the sea, and that
+the bubbling caused the whole earth to rock; they said the effect was
+the same as that caused by throwing, a red-hot stone into a pot of
+water.--ED.
+
+[21] The Waiyau language differs very much from the Nyassa, and is
+exceedingly difficult to master: it holds good from the coast to
+Nyassa, but to the west of the Lake the Nyassa tongue is spoken over a
+vast tract.--ED.
+
+[22] We shall see that more to the north the hump entirely disappears.
+
+[23] It is very singular to witness the disgust with which the idea of
+drinking milk is received by most of these tribes when we remember
+that the Caffre nations on the south, and again, tribes more to the
+north, subsist principally on it. A lad will undergo punishment rather
+than milk a goat. Eggs are likewise steadily eschewed.--ED.
+
+[24] To myself.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    Crosses Cape Maclear. The havildar demoralised. The discomfited
+    chief. Beaches Marenga's town. The earth-sponge. Description of
+    Marenga's town. Rumours of Mazitu. Musa and the Johanna men
+    desert. Beaches Kimsusa's. His delight at seeing the Doctor once
+    more. The fat ram. Kimsusa relates his experience of
+    Livingstone's advice. Chuma finds relatives. Kimsusa solves the
+    transport difficulty nobly. Another old fishing acquaintance.
+    Description of the people and country on the west of the Lake.
+    The Kanthundas. Kauma. Iron-smelting. An African Sir Colin
+    Campbell. Milandos.
+
+_21st September, 1866._--We marched westwards, making across the base
+of Cape Maclear. Two men employed as guides and carriers, went along
+grumbling that their dignity was so outraged by working--"only fancy
+Waiyau carrying like slaves!!" They went but a short distance, and
+took advantage of my being in front to lay down the loads, one of
+which consisted of the havildar's bed and cooking things; here they
+opened the other bundle and paid themselves--the gallant havildar
+sitting and looking on. He has never been of the smallest use, and
+lately has pretended to mysterious pains in his feet; no swelling or
+other symptom accompanied this complaint. On coming to Pima's village
+he ate a whole fowl and some fish for supper, slept soundly till
+daybreak, then on awaking commenced a furious groaning--"feet were so
+bad." I told him that people usually moaned when insensible, but he
+had kept quiet till he awaked; he sulked at this, and remained all
+day, though I sent a man to carry his kit for him, and when he came
+up he had changed the seat of his complaint from his feet to any part
+of his abdomen. He gave off his gun-belt and pouch to the carrier.
+This was a blind to me, for I examined and found that he had already
+been stealing and selling his ammunition: this is all preparatory to
+returning to the coast with some slave-trader. Nothing can exceed the
+ease and grace with which sepoys can glide from a swagger into the
+most abject begging of food from the villagers. He has remained
+behind.
+
+_22nd September, 1866._--The hills we crossed were about 700 feet above
+Nyassa, generally covered with trees; no people were seen. We slept by
+the brook Sikoché. Rocks of hardened sandstone rested on mica schist,
+which had an efflorescence of alum on it, above this was dolomite; the
+hills often capped with it and oak-spar, giving a snowy appearance. We
+had a Waiyau party with us--six handsomely-attired women carried huge
+pots of beer for their husbands, who very liberally invited us to
+partake. After seven hours' hard travelling we came to the village,
+where we spend Sunday by the torrent Usangazi, and near a remarkable
+mountain, Namasi. The chief, a one-eyed man, was rather coy--coming
+_incognito_ to visit us; and, as I suspected that he was present, I
+asked if the chief were an old woman, afraid to look at and welcome a
+stranger? All burst into a laugh, and looked at him, when he felt
+forced to join in it, and asked what sort of food we liked best. Chuma
+put this clear enough by saying, "He eats everything eaten by the
+Waiyau." This tribe, or rather the Machinga, now supersede the
+Manganja. We passed one village of the latter near this, a sad,
+tumble-down affair, while the Waiyau villages are very neat, with
+handsome straw or reed fences all around their huts.
+
+_24th September, 1866._--We went only 2-1/2 miles to the village of
+Marenga, a very large one, situated at the eastern edge of the bottom
+of the heel of the Lake. The chief is ill of a loathsome disease
+derived direct from the Arabs. Raised patches of scab of circular form
+disfigure the face and neck as well as other parts. His brother begged
+me to see him and administer some remedy for the same complaint. He is
+at a village a little way off, and though sent for, was too ill to
+come or to be carried. The tribe is of Babisa origin. Many of these
+people had gone to the coast as traders, and returning with arms and
+ammunition joined the Waiyau in their forays on the Manganja, and
+eventually set themselves up as an independent tribe. The women do not
+wear the lip-ring, though the majority of them are Waiyau. They
+cultivate largely, and have plenty to eat. They have cattle, but do
+not milk them.
+
+The bogs, or earthen sponges,[25] of this country occupy a most
+important part in its physical geography, and probably explain the
+annual inundations of most of the rivers. Wherever a plain sloping
+towards a narrow opening in hills or higher ground exists, there we
+have the conditions requisite for the formation of an African sponge.
+The vegetation, not being of a heathy or peat-forming kind, falls
+down, rots, and then forms rich black loam. In many cases a mass of
+this loam, two or three feet thick, rests on a bed of pure river sand,
+which is revealed by crabs and other aquatic animals bringing it to
+the surface. At present, in the dry season, the black loam is cracked
+in all directions, and the cracks are often as much as three inches
+wide, and very deep. The whole surface has now fallen down, and rests
+on the sand, but when the rains come, the first supply is nearly all
+absorbed in the sand. The black loam forms soft slush, and floats on
+the sand. The narrow opening prevents it from moving off in a
+landslip, but an oozing spring rises at that spot. All the pools in
+the lower portion of this spring-course are filled by the first rains,
+which happen south of the equator when the sun goes vertically over
+any spot. The second, or greater rains, happen in his course north
+again, when all the bogs and river-courses being wet, the supply runs
+off, and forms the inundation: this was certainly the case as observed
+on the Zambesi and Shiré, and, taking the different times for the
+sun's passage north of the equator, it explains the inundation of the
+Nile.
+
+_25th September, 1866._--Marenga's town on the west shore of Lake Nyassa is
+very large, and his people collected in great numbers to gaze at the
+stranger. The chief's brother asked a few questions, and I took the
+occasion to be a good one for telling him something about the Bible
+and the future state. The men said that their fathers had never told
+them aught about the soul, but they thought that the whole man rotted
+and came to nothing. What I said was very nicely put by a volunteer
+spokesman, who seemed to have a gift that way, for all listened most
+attentively, and especially when told that our Father in heaven loved
+all, and heard prayers addressed to Him.
+
+Marenga came dressed in a red-figured silk shawl, and attended by
+about ten court beauties, who spread a mat for him, then a cloth
+above, and sat down as if to support him. He asked me to examine his
+case inside a hut. He exhibited his loathsome skin disease, and being
+blacker than his wives, the blotches with which he was covered made
+him appear very ugly. He thought that the disease was in the country
+before Arabs came. Another new disease acquired from them was the
+small-pox.
+
+_26th September, 1866._--An Arab passed us yesterday, his slaves going by
+another route across the base of Cape Maclear. He told Musa that all
+the country in front was full of Mazitu; that forty-four Arabs and
+their followers had been killed by them at Kasungu, and he only
+escaped. Musa and all the Johanna men now declared that they would go
+no farther. Musa said, "No good country that; I want to go back to
+Johanna to see my father and mother and son." I took him to Marenga,
+and asked the chief about the Mazitu. He explained that the
+disturbance was caused by the Manganja finding that Jumbé brought
+Arabs and ammunition into the country every year, and they resented it
+in consequence; they would not allow more to come, because they were
+the sufferers, and their nation was getting destroyed.
+
+I explained to Musa that we should avoid the Mazitu: Marenga added,
+"There are no Mazitu near where you are going;" but Musa's eyes _stood
+out_ with terror, and he said, "I no can believe that man." But I
+inquired, "How can you believe the Arab so easily?" Musa answered, "I
+ask him to tell me true, and he say true, true," &c.
+
+When we started, all the Johanna men walked off, leaving the goods on
+the ground. They have been such inveterate thieves that I am not sorry
+to get rid of them; for though my party is now inconveniently small, I
+could not trust them with flints in their guns, nor allow them to
+remain behind, for their object was invariably to plunder their loads.
+
+[Here then we have Livingstone's account of the origin of that
+well-told story, which at first seemed too true. How Mr. Edward Young,
+R.N., declared it to be false, and subsequently proved it untrue, is
+already well known. This officer's quick voyage to Lake Nyassa
+reflected the greatest credit on him, and all hearts were filled with
+joy when he returned and reported the tale of Livingstone's murder to
+be merely an invention of Musa and his comrades.]
+
+I ought to mention that the stealing by the Johanna men was not the
+effect of hunger; it attained its height when we had plenty. If one
+remained behind, we knew his object in delaying was stealing. He gave
+what he filched to the others, and Musa shared the dainties they
+bought with the stolen property. When spoken to he would say, "I every
+day tell Johanna men no steal Doctor's things." As he came away and
+left them in the march, I insisted out his bringing up all his men;
+this he did not relish, and the amount stolen was not small. One stole
+fifteen pounds of fine powder, another seven, another left six
+table-cloths out of about twenty-four; another called out to a man to
+bring a fish, and he would buy it with beads, the beads being stolen,
+and Musa knew it all and connived at it; but it was terror that drove
+him away at last.
+
+With our goods in canoes we went round the bottom of the heel of
+Nyassa, slept among reeds, and next morning (27th) landed at Msangwa,
+which is nearly opposite Kimsusa's, or Katosa's, as the Makololo
+called him. A man had been taken off by a crocodile last night; he had
+been drinking beer, and went down to the water to cool himself, where
+he lay down, and the brute seized him. The water was very muddy, being
+stirred up by an east wind, which lashed the waves into our canoes,
+and wetted our things. The loud wail of the women is very painful to
+hear; it sounds so dolefully.
+
+_28th, September, 1866._--We reached Kinisusa's, below Mount Mulundini, of
+Kirk's range.[26] The chief was absent, but he was sent for
+immediately: his town has much increased since I saw it last.
+
+_29th September, 1866._--Another Arab passed last night, with the tale that
+his slaves had all been taken from him by the Mazitu. It is more
+respectable to be robbed by them than by the Manganja, who are much
+despised and counted nobodies. I propose to go west of this among the
+Maravi until quite away beyond the disturbances, whether of Mazitu or
+Manganja.
+
+_30th September, 1866._--We enjoy our Sunday here. We have-abundance of
+food from Kimsusa's wife. The chief wished me to go alone and enjoy
+his drinking bout, and then we could return to this place together;
+but this was not to my taste.
+
+_1st October, 1866._--Kimsusa, or Mehusa, came this morning, and
+seemed very glad again to see his old friend. He sent off at once to
+bring an enormous ram, which had either killed or seriously injured a
+man. The animal came tied to a pole to keep him off the man who held
+it, while a lot more carried him. He was prodigiously fat;[27] this is
+a true African way of showing love--plenty of fat and beer.
+Accordingly the chief brought a huge basket of "pombe," the native
+beer, and another of "nsima," or porridge, and a pot of cooked meat;
+to these were added a large basket of maize. So much food had been
+brought to us, that we had at last to explain that we could not carry
+it.
+
+[The Doctor states a fact in the next few lines which shows that the
+Africans readily profit by advice which appeals to their common sense,
+and we make this observation in full knowledge of similar instances.]
+
+Kimsusa says that they felt earthquakes at the place Mponda now
+occupies, but none where he is now. He confirms the tradition that the
+Manganja came from the west or W.N.W. He speaks more rationally about
+the Deity than some have done, and adds, that it was by following the
+advice which I gave him the last time I saw him, and not selling his
+people, that his village is now three times its former size. He has
+another village besides, and he was desirous that I should see that
+too; that was the reason he invited me to come, but the people would
+come and visit me.
+
+_2nd October, 1866._--Kimsusa made his appearance early with a huge
+basket of beer, 18 inches high and 15 inches in diameter. He served it
+out for a time, taking deep draughts himself, becoming extremely
+loquacious in consequence. He took us to a dense thicket behind his
+town, among numbers of lofty trees, many of which I have seen nowhere
+else; that under which we sat bears a fruit in clusters, which is
+eatable, and called "_Mbedwa_." A space had been cleared, and we were
+taken to this shady spot as the one in which business of importance
+and secrecy is transacted. Another enormous basket of beer was brought
+here by his wives, but there was little need for it, for Kimsusa
+talked incessantly, and no business was done.
+
+_3rd October, 1866._--The chief came early, and sober. I rallied him
+on his previous loquacity, and said one ought to find time in the
+morning if business was to be done: he took it in good part, and one
+of his wives joined in bantering him. She is _the_ wife and the mother
+of the sons in whom he delights, and who will succeed him. I proposed
+to him to send men with me to the Babisa country, and I would pay them
+there, where they could buy ivory for him with the pay, and, bringing
+it back, he would be able to purchase clothing without selling his
+people. He says that his people would not bring the pay or anything
+else back. When he sends to purchase ivory he gives the price to Arabs
+or Babisa, and they buy for him and conduct his business honestly; but
+his people, the Manganja, cannot be trusted: this shows a remarkable
+state of distrust, and, from previous information, it is probably
+true.
+
+A party of the Arab Khambuiri's people went up lately to the Maravi
+country above this, and immediately west of Kirk's range, to purchase
+slaves: but they were attacked by the Maravi, and dispersed with
+slaughter: this makes Kimsusa's people afraid to venture there. They
+had some quarrel with the Maravi also of their own, and no intercourse
+now took place. A path further south was followed by Mponda lately,
+and great damage done, so it would not be wise to go on his footsteps.
+Kimsusa said he would give me carriers to go up to the Maravi, but he
+wished to be prepaid: to this I agreed, but even then he could not
+prevail on anyone to go. He then sent for an old Mobisa man, who has a
+village under him, and acknowledges Kimsusa's power. He says that he
+fears that, should he force his Manganja to go, they would leave us on
+the road, or run away on the first appearance of danger; but this
+Mobisa man would be going to his own country, and would stick by us.
+Meanwhile the chief overstocks us with beer and other food.
+
+_4th October, 1866._--The Mobisa man sent for came, but was so ignorant of
+his own country, not knowing the names of the chief Babisa town or any
+of the rivers, that I declined his guidance. He would only have been a
+clog on us; and anything about the places in front of us we could
+ascertain at the villages where we touch by inquiry as well as he
+could.
+
+A woman turned up here, and persuaded Chuma that she was his aunt. He
+wanted to give her at once a fathom of calico and beads, and wished me
+to cut his pay down for the purpose. I persuaded him to be content
+with a few beads for her. He gave her his spoon and some other
+valuables, fully persuaded that she was a relative, though he was
+interrogated first as to his father's name, and tribe, &c., before she
+declared herself.
+
+It shows a most forgiving disposition on the part of these boys to
+make presents to those who, if genuine relations, actually sold them.
+But those who have been caught young, know nothing of the evils of
+slavery, and do not believe in its ills. Chuma, for instance, believes
+now that he was caught and sold by the Manganja, and not by his own
+Waiyau, though it was just in the opposite way that he became a slave,
+and he asserted and believes that no Waiyau ever sold his own child.
+When reminded that Wikatani was sold by his own father, he denied it;
+then that the father of Chimwala, another boy, sold him, his mother,
+and sister, he replied, "These are Machinga." This is another tribe of
+Waiyau; but this showed that he was determined to justify his
+countrymen at any rate. I mention this matter, because though the
+Oxford and Cambridge Mission have an advantage in the instruction of
+boys taken quite young from slavers, yet these same boys forget the
+evils to which they were exposed and from which they were rescued, and
+it is even likely that they will, like Chuma, deny that any benefit
+was conferred upon them by their deliverance. This was not stated
+broadly by Chuma, but his tone led one to believe that he was quite
+ready to return to the former state.
+
+_5th October, 1866._--The chief came early with an immense basket of
+beer, as usual. We were ready to start: he did not relish this; but I
+told him it was clear that his people set very light by his authority.
+He declared that he would force them or go himself, with his wives as
+carriers. This dawdling and guzzling had a bad effect on my remaining
+people. Simon, a Nassick lad, for instance, overheard two words which
+he understood; these were "Mazitu" and "lipululu," or desert; and from
+these he conjured up a picture of Mazitu rushing out upon us from the
+jungle, and killing all without giving us time to say a word! To this
+he added scraps of distorted information: Khambuiri was a very bad
+chief in front, &c., all showing egregious cowardice; yet he came to
+give me advice. On asking what he knew (as he could not speak the
+language), he replied that he heard the above two words, and that
+Chuma could not translate them, but he had caught them, and came to
+warn me.
+
+The chief asked me to stay over to-day, and he would go with his wives
+to-morrow; I was his friend, and he would not see me in difficulties
+without doing his utmost. He says that there is no danger of our not
+finding people for carrying loads. It is probable that Khambuiri's
+people went as marauders, and were beaten off in consequence.
+
+_6th October, 1866._--We marched about seven miles to the north to a
+village opposite the pass Tapiri, and on a rivulet, Godedza. It was
+very hot. Kimsusa behaves like a king: his strapping wives came to
+carry loads, and shame his people. Many of the young men turned out
+and took the loads, but it was evident that they feared retaliation if
+they ventured up the pass. One wife carried beer, another meal; and as
+soon as we arrived, cooking commenced: porridge and roasted goat's
+flesh made a decent meal. A preparation of meal called "Toku" is very
+refreshing and brings out all the sugary matter in the grain: he gave
+me some in the way, and, seeing I liked it, a calabash full was
+prepared for me in the evening. Kimsusa delights in showing me to his
+people as his friend. If I could have used his pombe, or beer, it
+would have put some fat on my bones, but it requires a strong
+digestion; many of the chiefs and their wives live on it almost
+entirely. A little flesh is necessary to relieve the acidity it
+causes; and they keep all flesh very carefully, no matter how high it
+may become: drying it on a stage over a fire prevents entire
+putridity.
+
+_7th October, 1866._--I heard hooping-cough[28] in the village. We
+found our visitors so disagreeable that I was glad to march; they were
+Waiyau, and very impudent, demanding gun or game medicine to enable
+them to shoot well: they came into the hut uninvited, and would take
+no denial. It is probable that the Arabs drive a trade in gun
+medicine: it is inserted in cuts made above the thumb, and on the
+forearm. Their superciliousness shows that they feel themselves to be
+the dominant race. The Manganja trust to their old bows and arrows;
+they are much more civil than Ajawa or Waiyau.
+
+[The difference between these two great races is here well worthy of
+the further notice which Livingstone no doubt would have given it. As
+a rule, the Manganja are extremely clever in all the savage arts and
+manufactures. Their looms turn out a strong serviceable cotton cloth;
+their iron weapons and implements show a taste for design which is not
+reached by the neighbouring tribes, and in all matters that relate to
+husbandry they excel: but in dash and courage they are deficient. The
+Waiyau, on the contrary, have round apple-shaped heads, as
+distinguished from the long well-shaped heads of the poor Manganja;
+they are jocular and merry, given to travelling, and bold in
+war--these are qualities which serve them well as they are driven from
+pillar to post through slave wars and internal dissension, but they
+have not the brains of the Manganja, nor the talent to make their mark
+in any direction where brains are wanted.]
+
+A Manganja man, who formerly presented us with the whole haul of his
+net, came and gave me four fowls: some really delight in showing
+kindness. When we came near the bottom of the pass Tapiri, Kimsusa's
+men became loud against his venturing further; he listened, then burst
+away from them: he listened again, then did the same; and as he had
+now got men for us, I thought it better to let him go.
+
+In three hours and a quarter we had made a clear ascent of 2200 feet
+above the Lake. The first persons we met were two men and a boy, who
+were out hunting with a dog and basket-trap. This is laid down in the
+run of some small animal; the dog chases it, and it goes into the
+basket which is made of split bamboo, and has prongs looking inwards,
+which prevent its egress: mouse traps are made in the same fashion. I
+suspected that the younger of the men had other game in view, and
+meant, if fit opportunity offered, to insert an arrow in a Waiyau, who
+was taking away his wife as a slave. He told me before we had gained
+the top of the ascent that some Waiyau came to a village, separated
+from his by a small valley, picked a quarrel with the inhabitants, and
+then went and took the wife and child of a poorer countryman to pay
+these pretended offences.
+
+_8th October, 1866._--At the first village we found that the people up
+here and those down below were mutually afraid of each other. Kimsusa
+came to the bottom of the range, his last act being the offer of a pot
+of beer, and a calabash of Toku, which latter was accepted. I paid his
+wives for carrying our things: they had done well, and after we gained
+the village where we slept, sang and clapped their hands vigorously
+till one o'clock in the morning, when I advised them to go to sleep.
+The men he at last provided were very faithful and easily satisfied.
+Here we found the headman, Kawa, of Mpalapala, quite as hospitable. In
+addition to providing a supper, it is the custom to give breakfast
+before starting. Resting on the 8th to make up for the loss of rest on
+Sunday; we marched on Tuesday (the 9th), but were soon brought to a
+stand by Gombwa, whose village, Tamiala, stands on another ridge.
+
+Gombwa, a laughing, good-natured man, said that he had sent for all
+his people to see me; and I ought to sleep, to enable them to look on
+one the like of whom had never come their way before. Intending to go
+on, I explained some of my objects in coming through the country,
+advising the people to refrain from selling each other, as it ends in
+war and depopulation. He was cunning, and said, "Well, you must sleep
+here, and all my people will come and hear those words of peace." I
+explained that I had employed carriers, who expected to be paid though
+I had gone but a small part of a day; he replied, "But they will go
+home and come again to-morrow, and it will count but one day:" I was
+thus constrained to remain.
+
+_9th October, 1866._--Both barometer and boiling-point showed an
+altitude of upwards of 4000 feet above the sea. This is the hottest
+month, but the air is delightfully clear, and delicious. The country
+is very fine, lying in long slopes, with mountains rising all around,
+from 2000 to 3000 feet above this upland. They are mostly jagged and
+rough (not rounded like those near to Mataka's): the long slopes are
+nearly denuded of trees, and the patches of cultivation are so large
+and often squarish in form, that but little imagination is requisite
+to transform the whole into the cultivated fields of England; but no
+hedgerows exist. The trees are in clumps on the tops of the ridges, or
+at the villages, or at the places of sepulture. Just now the young
+leaves are out, but are not yet green. In some lights they look brown,
+but with transmitted light, or when one is near them, crimson
+prevails. A yellowish-green is met sometimes in the young leaves, and
+brown, pink, and orange-red. The soil is rich, but the grass is only
+excessively rank in spots; in general it is short. A kind of trenching
+of the ground is resorted to; they hoe deep, and draw it well to
+themselves: this exposes the other earth to the hoe. The soil is
+burned too: the grass and weeds are placed in flat heaps, and soil
+placed over them: the burning is slow, and most of the products of
+combustion are retained to fatten the field; in this way the people
+raise large crops. Men and women and children engage in field labour,
+but at present many of the men are engaged in spinning buazé[29] and
+cotton. The former is made into a coarse sacking-looking stuff,
+immensely strong, which seems to be worn by the women alone; the men
+are clad in uncomfortable goatskins. No wild animals seem to be in the
+country, and indeed the population is so large they would have very
+unsettled times of it. At every turning we meet people, or see their
+villages; all armed with bows and arrows. The bows are unusually long:
+I measured one made of bamboo, and found that along the bowstring it
+measured six feet four inches. Many carry large knives of fine iron;
+and indeed the metal is abundant. Young men and women wear the hair
+long, a mass of small ringlets comes down and rests on the shoulders,
+giving them the appearance of the ancient Egyptians. One side is often
+cultivated, and the mass hangs jauntily on that side; some few have a
+solid cap of it. Not many women wear the lip-ring: the example of the
+Waiyau has prevailed so far; but some of the young women have raised
+lines crossing each other on the arms, which must have cost great
+pain: they have also small cuts, covering in some cases the whole
+body. The Maravi or Manganja here may be said to be in their primitive
+state. We find them very liberal with their food: we give a cloth to
+the headman of the village where we pass the night, and he gives a
+goat, or at least cooked fowls and porridge, at night and morning.
+
+[Illustration: Tattoo on Women.]
+
+We were invited by Gombwa in the afternoon to speak the same words to
+his people that we used to himself in the morning. He nudged a boy to
+respond, which is considered polite, though he did it only with a
+rough hem! at the end of each sentence. As for our general discourse
+we mention our relationship to our Father: His love to all His
+children--the guilt of selling any of His children--the consequence;
+_e.g._ it begets war, for they don't like to sell their own, and steal
+from other villagers, who retaliate. Arabs and Waiyau invited into the
+country by their selling, foster feuds, and war and depopulation
+ensue. We mention the Bible--future state--prayer: advise union, that
+they should unite as one family to expel enemies, who came first as
+slave-traders, and ended by leaving the country a wilderness. In
+reference to union, we showed that they ought to have seen justice
+done to the man who lost his wife and child at their very doors; but
+this want of cohesion is the bane of the Manganja. If the evil does
+not affect themselves they don't care whom it injures; and Gombwa
+confirmed this, by saying that when he routed Khambuiri's people, the
+villagers west of him fled instead of coming to his aid.
+
+We hear that many of the Manganja up here are fugitives from Nyassa.
+
+_10th October, 1866._--Kawa and his people were with us early this
+morning, and we started from Tamiala with them. The weather is lovely,
+and the scenery, though at present tinged with yellow from the grass,
+might be called glorious. The bright sun and delicious air are quite
+exhilarating. We passed a fine flowing rivulet, called Levizé, going
+into the Lake, and many smaller runnels of delicious cold water. On
+resting by a dark sepulchral grove, a tree attracted the attention, as
+nowhere else seen: it is called Bokonto, and said to bear eatable
+fruit. Many fine flowers were just bursting into full blossom. After
+about four hours' march we put up at Chitimba, the village of
+Kańgomba, and were introduced by Kawa, who came all the way for the
+purpose.
+
+_11th October, 1866._--A very cold morning, with a great bank of black
+clouds in the east, whence the wind came. Therm. 59°; in hut 69°. The
+huts are built very well. The roof, with the lower part plastered, is
+formed so as not to admit a ray of light, and the only visible mode of
+ingress for it is by the door. This case shows that winter is cold: on
+proposing to start, breakfast was not ready: then a plan was formed to
+keep me another day at a village close by, belonging to one Kulu, a
+man of Kauma, to whom we go next. It was effectual, and here we are
+detained another day. A curiously cut-out stool is in my hut, made by
+the Mkwisa, who are south-west of this: it is of one block, but
+hollowed out, and all the spaces indicated are hollow too: about 2-1/2
+feet long by 1-1/2 foot high.
+
+[Illustration: Curiously cut-out stool of one block of wood hollowed
+out.]
+
+_12th October, 1866._--We march westerly, with a good deal of
+southing. Kulu gave us a goat, and cooked liberally for us all. He set
+off with us as if to go to Kauma's in our company, but after we had
+gone a couple of miles he slipped behind, and ran away. Some are
+naturally mean, and some naturally noble: the mean cannot help showing
+their nature, nor can the noble; but the noble-hearted must enjoy life
+most. Kulu got a cloth, and he gave us at least its value; but he
+thought he had got more than he gave, and so by running away that he
+had done us nicely, without troubling himself to go and introduce us
+to Kauma. I usually request a headman of a village to go with us. They
+give a good report of us, if for no other reason than for their own
+credit, because no one likes to be thought giving his countenance to
+people other than respectable, and it costs little.
+
+We came close to the foot of several squarish mountains, having
+perpendicular sides. One, called "Ulazo pa Malungo," is used by the
+people, whose villages cluster round its base as a storehouse for
+grain. Large granaries stand on its top, containing food to be used in
+case of war. A large cow is kept up there, which is supposed capable
+of knowing and letting the owners know when war is coming.[30] There
+is a path up, but it was not visible to us. The people are all
+Kanthunda, or climbers, not Maravi. Kimsusa said that he was the only
+Maravi chief, but this I took to be an ebullition of beer bragging:
+the natives up here, however, confirm this, and assert that they are
+not Maravi, who are known by having markings down the side of the
+face.
+
+We spent the night at a Kanthunda village on the western side of a
+mountain called Phunzé (the _h_ being an aspirate only). Many villages
+are planted round its base, but in front, that is, westwards, we have
+plains, and there the villages are as numerous: mostly they are within
+half a mile of each other, and few are a mile from other hamlets. Each
+village has a clump of trees around it: this is partly for shade and
+partly for privacy from motives of decency. The heat of the sun causes
+the effluvia to exhale quickly, so they are seldom offensive. The rest
+of the country, where not cultivated, is covered with grass, the
+seed-stalks about knee deep. It is gently undulating, lying in low
+waves, stretching N.E. and S.W. The space between each wave is usually
+occupied by a boggy spot or watercourse, which in some cases is filled
+with pools with trickling rills between. All the people are engaged
+at present in making mounds six or eight feet square, and from two to
+three feet high. The sods in places not before hoed are separated from
+the soil beneath and collected into flattened heaps, the grass
+undermost; when dried, fire is applied and slow combustion goes on,
+most of the products of the burning being retained in the ground, much
+of the soil is incinerated. The final preparation is effected by the
+men digging up the subsoil round the mound, passing each hoeful into
+the left hand, where it pulverizes, and is then thrown on to the heap.
+It is thus virgin soil on the top of the ashes and burned ground of
+the original heap, very clear of weeds. At present many mounds have
+beans and maize about four inches high. Holes, a foot in diameter and
+a few inches deep, are made irregularly over the surface of the mound,
+and about eight or ten grains put into each: these are watered by hand
+and calabash, and kept growing till the rains set in, when a very
+early crop is secured.
+
+_13th October, 1866._--After leaving Phunzé, we crossed the Levińgé, a
+rivulet which flows northwards, and then into Lake Nyassa; the lines
+of gentle undulation tend in that direction. Some hills appear on the
+plains, but after the mountains which we have left behind they are
+mere mounds. We are over 3000 feet above the sea, and the air is
+delicious; but we often pass spots covered with a plant which grows in
+marshy places, and its heavy smell always puts me in mind that at
+other seasons this may not be so pleasant a residence. The fact of
+even maize being planted on mounds where the ground is naturally quite
+dry, tells a tale of abundant humidity of climate.
+
+Kauma, a fine tall man, with a bald head and pleasant manners, told us
+that some of his people had lately returned from the Chibisa or Babisa
+country, whither they had gone to buy ivory, and they would give me
+information about the path. He took a fancy to one of the boys'
+blankets; offering a native cloth, much larger, in exchange, and even
+a sheep to boot; but the owner being unwilling to part with his
+covering, Kauma told me that he had not sent for his Babisa travellers
+on account of my boy refusing to deal with him. A little childish
+this, but otherwise he was very hospitable; he gave me a fine goat,
+which, unfortunately, my people left behind.
+
+The chief said that no Arabs ever came his way, nor Portuguese native
+traders. When advising them to avoid the first attempts to begin the
+slave-trade, as it would inevitably lead to war and depopulation,
+Kauma replied that the chiefs had resolved to unite against the Waiyau
+of Mpondé should he come again on a foray up to the highlands; but
+they are like a rope of sand, there is no cohesion among them, and
+each village is nearly independent of every other: they mutually
+distrust each other.
+
+_14th October, 1866._--Spent Sunday here. Kauma says that his people
+are partly Kanthunda and partly Chipéta. The first are the
+mountaineers, the second dwellers on the plains. The Chipéta have many
+lines of marking: they are all only divisions of the great Manganja
+tribe, and their dialects differ very slightly from that spoken by the
+same people on the Shiré. The population is very great and very
+ceremonious. When we meet anyone he turns aside and sits down: we clap
+the hand on the chest and say, "Re peta--re peta," that is, "we pass,"
+or "let us pass:" this is responded to at once by a clapping of the
+hands together. When a person is called at a distance he gives two
+loud claps of assent; or if he rises from near a superior he does, the
+same thing, which is a sort of leave-taking.
+
+We have to ask who are the principal chiefs in the direction which we
+wish to take, and decide accordingly. Zomba was pointed out as a chief
+on a range of hills on our west: beyond him lies Undi m'senga. I had
+to take this route, as my people have a very vivid idea of the danger
+of going northwards towards the Mazitu. We made more southing than we
+wished. One day beyond Zomba and W.S.W. is the part called Chindando,
+where the Portuguese formerly went for gold. They don't seem to have
+felt it worth while to come here, as neither ivory nor gold could be
+obtained if they did. The country is too full of people to allow any
+wild animals elbow-room: even the smaller animals are hunted down by
+means of nets and dogs.
+
+We rested at Pachoma; the headman offering a goat and beer, but I
+declined, and went on to Molomba. Here Kauma's carriers turned because
+a woman had died that morning as we left the village. They asserted
+that had she died before we started not a man would have left: this
+shows a reverence for death, for the woman was no relative of any of
+them. The headman of Molomba was very poor but very liberal, cooking
+for us and presenting a goat: another headman from a neighbouring
+village, a laughing, good-natured old man, named Chikala, brought beer
+and a fowl in the morning. I asked him to go on with us to Mironga, it
+being important, as above-mentioned, to have the like of his kind in
+our company, and he consented. We saw Mount Ngala in the distance,
+like a large sugar-loaf shot up in the air: in our former route to
+Kasungu we passed north of it.
+
+_16th October, 1866._--Crossed the rivulet Chikuyo going N. for the
+Lake, and Mironga being but one-and-a-half hour off, we went on to
+Chipanga: this is the proper name of what on the Zambesi is corrupted
+into Shupanga. The headman, a miserable hemp-consuming[31] leper, fled
+from us. We were offered a miserable hut, which we refused, Chikala
+meanwhile went through the whole village seeking a better, which we
+ultimately found: it was not in this chief to be generous, though
+Chikala did what he could in trying to indoctrinate him: when I gave
+him a present he immediately proposed to _sell_ a goat! We get on
+pretty well however.
+
+Zomha is in a range of hills to our west, called Zala nyama. The
+Portuguese, in going to Casembe, went still further west than this.
+
+Passing on we came to a smithy, and watched the founder at work
+drawing off slag from the bottom of his furnace. He broke through the
+hardened slag by striking it with an iron instrument inserted in the
+end of a pole, when the material flowed out of the small hole left for
+the purpose in the bottom of the furnace. The ore (probably the black
+oxide) was like sand, and was put in at the top of the furnace, mixed
+with charcoal. Only one bellows was at work, formed out of a goatskin,
+and the blast was very poor. Many of these furnaces, or their remains,
+are met with on knolls; those at work have a peculiarly tall hut built
+over them.
+
+On the eastern edge of a valley lying north and south, with the
+Diampwé stream flowing along it, and the Dzala nyama range on the
+western side, are two villages screened by fine specimens of the
+_Ficus Indica_. One of these is owned by the headman Theresa, and
+there we spent the night. We made very short marches, for the sun is
+very powerful, and the soil baked hard, is sore on the feet: no want
+of water, however, is felt, for we come to supplies every mile or two.
+
+The people look very poor, having few or no beads; the ornaments being
+lines and cuttings on the skin. They trust more to buazé than cotton.
+I noticed but two cotton patches. The women are decidedly plain; but
+monopolize all the buazé cloth. Theresa was excessively liberal, and
+having informed us that Zomba lived some distance up the range and was
+not the principal man in these parts, we, to avoid climbing the hills,
+turned away to the north, in the direction of the paramount chief,
+Chisumpi, whom we found to be only traditionally great.
+
+_20th October, 1866._--In passing along we came to a village embowered
+in fine trees; the headman is Kaveta, a really fine specimen of the
+Kanthunda, tall, well-made, with a fine forehead and Assyrian nose. He
+proposed to us to remain over night with him, and I unluckily
+declined.
+
+Convoying us out a mile, we parted with this gentleman, and then came
+to a smith's village, where the same invitation was given and refused.
+A sort of infatuation drove us on, and after a long hot march we found
+the great Chisumpi, the facsimile in black of Sir Colin Campbell; his
+nose, mouth, and the numerous wrinkles on his face were identical with
+those of the great General, but here all resemblance ceased. Two men
+had preceded us to give information, and when I followed I saw that
+his village was one of squalid misery, the only fine things about
+being the lofty trees in which it lay. Chisumpi begged me to sleep at
+a village about half a mile behind: his son was browbeating him on
+some domestic affair, and the older man implored me to go. Next
+morning he came early to that village, and arranged for our departure,
+offering nothing, and apparently not wishing to see us at all. I
+suspect that though paramount chief, he is weak-minded, and has lost
+thereby all his influence, but in the people's eyes he is still a
+great one.
+
+Several of my men exhibiting symptoms of distress, I inquired for a
+village in which we could rest Saturday and Sunday, and at a distance
+from Chisumpi. A headman volunteered to lead us to one west of this.
+In passing the sepulchral grove of Chisumpi our guide remarked,
+"Chisumpi's forefathers sleep there." This was the first time I have
+heard the word "sleep" applied to death in these parts. The trees in
+these groves, and around many of the villages, are very large, and
+show what the country would become if depopulated.
+
+We crossed the Diampwé or Adiampwé, from five to fifteen yards wide,
+and well supplied with water even now. It rises near the Ndomo
+mountains, and flows northwards into the Lintipé and Lake. We found
+Chitokola's village, called Paritala, a pleasant one on the east side
+of the Adiampwé Valley. Many elephants and other animals feed in the
+valley, and we saw the Bechuana Hopo[32] again after many years.
+
+The Ambarré, otherwise Nyumbo plant, has a pea-shaped, or rather
+papilionaceous flower, with a fine scent. It seems to grow quite wild;
+its flowers are yellow.
+
+Chaola is the poison used by the Maravi for their arrows, it is said
+to cause mortification.
+
+One of the wonders usually told of us in this upland region is that we
+sleep without fire. The boys' blankets suffice for warmth during the
+night, when the thermometer sinks to 64°-60°, but no one else has
+covering sufficient; some huts in process of building here show that a
+thick coating of plaster is put on outside the roof before the grass
+thatch is applied; not a chink is left for the admission of air.
+
+Ohitikola was absent from Paritala when we arrived on some _milando_
+or other. These _milandos_ are the business of their lives. They are
+like petty lawsuits; if one trespasses on his neighbour's rights in
+any way it is a _milando_, and the headmen of all the villages about
+are called on to settle it. Women are a fruitful source of _milando_.
+A few ears of Indian corn had been taken by a person, and Chitikola
+had been called a full day's journey off to settle this _milando_. He
+administered _Muavé_[33] and the person vomited, therefore innocence
+was clearly established! He came in the evening of the 21st footsore
+and tired, and at once gave us some beer. This perpetual reference to
+food and drink is natural, inasmuch as it is the most important point
+in our intercourse. While the chief was absent we got nothing; the
+queen even begged a little meat for her child, who was recovering from
+an attack of small-pox. There being no shops we had to sit still
+without food. I took observations for longitude, and whiled away the
+time by calculating the lunars. Next day the chief gave us a goat
+cooked whole and plenty of porridge: I noticed that he too had the
+Assyrian type of face.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[25] Dr. Livingstone's description of the "Sponge" will stand the
+reader in good stead when he comes to the constant mention of these
+obstructions in the later travels towards the north.--ED.
+
+[26] So named when Dr. Livingstone, Dr. Kirk, and Mr. Charles
+Livingstone, discovered Lake Nyassa together.
+
+[27] The sheep are of the black-haired variety: their tails grow to an
+enormous size. A rain which came from Nunkajowa, a Waiyau chief, on a
+former occasion, was found to have a tail weighing 11 lbs.; but for
+the journey, and two or three days short commons, an extra 2 or 3 lbs.
+of fat Ťwould have been on it.--ED.
+
+[28] This complaint has not been reported as an African disease
+before; it probably clings to the higher levels.--ED.
+
+[29] A fine fibre derived from the shoots of a shrub (_Securidaca
+Longipedunculata_).
+
+[30] Several superstitions of this nature seem to point to a remnant
+of the old heathen ritual, and the worship of gods in mountain groves.
+
+[31] Hemp = bangé is smoked throughout Central Africa, and if used in
+excess produces partial imbecility.--ED.
+
+[32] The Hopo is a funnel-shaped fence which encloses a considerable
+tract of country: a "drive" is organised, and animals of all
+descriptions are urged on till they become jammed together in the neck
+of the hopo, where they are speared to death or else destroyed in a
+number of pitfalls placed there for the purpose.
+
+[33] The ordeal poison.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Progress northwards. An African forest. Destruction by Mazitu.
+    Native salutations. A disagreeable chief. On the watershed
+    between the Lake and the Loangwa River. Extensive iron-workings.
+    An old Nimrod. The Bua Eiver. Lovely scenery. Difficulties of
+    transport. Chilobé. An African Pythoness. Enlists two Waiyou
+    bearers. Ill. The Chitella bean. Rains set in. Arrives at the
+    Loangwa.
+
+
+We started with Chitikola as our guide on the 22nd of October, and he
+led us away westwards across the Lilongwé River, then turned north
+till we came to a village called Mashumba, the headman of which was
+the only chief who begged anything except medicine, and he got less
+than we were in the habit of giving in consequence: we give a cloth
+usually, and clothing being very scarce this is considered
+munificent.[34]
+
+We had the Zalanyama range on our left, and our course was generally
+north, but we had to go in the direction of the villages which were on
+friendly terms with our guides, and sometimes we went but a little
+way, as they studied to make the days as short as possible. The
+headman of the last village, Chitoku, was with us, and he took us to a
+village of smiths, four furnaces and one smithy being at work. We
+crossed the Chiniambo, a strong river coming from Zalanyama and
+flowing into the Mirongwé, which again goes into Lintipé. The country
+near the hills becomes covered with forest, the trees are chiefly
+Masuko Mochenga (the gum-copal tree), the bark-cloth tree and
+rhododendrons. The heath known at the Cape as _Rhinoster bosch_ occurs
+frequently, and occasionally we have thorny acacias. The grass is
+short, but there is plenty of it.
+
+_24th October, 1866._--Our guide, Mpanda, led us through the forest by
+what he meant to be a short cut to Chimuna's. We came on a herd of
+about fifteen elephants, and many trees laid down by these animals:
+they seem to relish the roots of some kinds, and spend a good deal of
+time digging them up; they chew woody roots and branches as thick as
+the handle of a spade. Many buffaloes feed here, and we viewed a herd
+of elands; they kept out of bow-shot only: a herd of the baama or
+hartebeest stood at 200 paces, and one was shot.
+
+While all were rejoicing over the meat we got news, from the
+inhabitants of a large village in full flight, that the Mazitu were
+out on a foray. While roasting and eating meat I went forward with
+Mpanda to get men from Chimuna to carry the rest, but was soon
+recalled. Another crowd were also in full retreat; the people were
+running straight to the Zalanyama range regardless of their feet,
+making a path for themselves through the forest; they had escaped from
+the Mazitu that morning; "they saw them!" Mpanda's people wished to
+leave and go to look after their own village, but we persuaded them,
+on pain of a _milando_, to take us to the nearest village, that was at
+the bottom of Zalanyama proper, and we took the spoor of the
+fugitives. The hard grass with stalks nearly as thick as quills must
+have hurt their feet sorely, but what of that in comparison with dear
+life! We meant to take our stand on the hill and defend our property
+in case of the Mazitu coming near; and we should, in the event of
+being successful, be a defence to the fugitives who crowded up its
+rocky sides, but next morning we heard that the enemy had gone to the
+south. Had we gone forward, as we intended, to search for men to
+carry the meat we should have met the marauders, for the men of the
+second party of villagers had remained behind guarding their village
+till the Mazitu arrived, and they told us what a near escape I had had
+from walking into their power.
+
+_25th October, 1866._--Came along northwards to Chimuna's town, a
+large one of Chipéta with many villages around. Our path led through
+the forest, and as we emerged into the open strath in which the
+villages lie, we saw the large anthills, each the size of the end of a
+one-storied cottage, covered with men on guard watching for the
+Mazitu.
+
+A long line of villagers were just arriving from the south, and we
+could see at some low hills in that direction the smoke arising from
+the burning settlements. None but men were present, the women and the
+chief were at the mountain called Pambé; all were fully armed with
+their long bows, some flat in the bow, others round, and it was common
+to have the quiver on the back, and a bunch of feathers stuck in the
+hair like those in our Lancers' shakos. But they remained not to
+fight, but to watch their homes and stores of grain from robbers
+amongst their own people in case no Mazitu came! They gave a good hut,
+and sent off at once to let the chief at Pambé know of our arrival. We
+heard the cocks crowing up there in the mountain as we passed in the
+morning. Chimuna came in the evening, and begged me to remain a day in
+his village, Pamaloa, as he was the greatest chief the Chipéta had. I
+told him all wished the same thing, and if I listened to each chief we
+should never get on, and the rains were near, but we had to stay over
+with him.
+
+_26th October, 1866._--All the people came down to-day from Pambé, and
+crowded to see the strangers. They know very little beyond their own
+affairs, though these require a good deal of knowledge, and we should
+be sorely put about if, without their skill, we had to maintain an
+existence here. Their furnaces are rather bottle shaped, and about
+seven feet high by three broad. One toothless patriarch had heard of
+books and umbrellas, but had never seen either. The oldest inhabitant
+had never travelled far from the spot in which he was born, yet he has
+a good knowledge of soils and agriculture, hut-building,
+basket-making, pottery, and the manufacture of bark-cloth and skins
+for clothing, as also making of nets, traps, and cordage.
+
+Chimuna had a most ungainly countenance, yet did well enough: he was
+very thankful for a blister on his loins to ease rheumatic pains, and
+presented a huge basket of porridge before starting, with a fowl, and
+asked me to fire a gun that the Mazitu might hear and know that armed
+men were here. They all say that these marauders flee from fire-arms,
+so I think that they are not Zulus at all, though adopting some of
+their ways.
+
+In going on to Mapuio's we passed several large villages, each
+surrounded by the usual euphorbia hedge, and having large trees for
+shade. We are on & level, or rather gently amdulating country, rather
+bare of trees. At the junctions of these earthen waves we have always
+an oozing bog, this often occurs in the slope down the trough of this
+terrestrial sea; bushes are common, and of the kind which were cut
+down as trees. Yellow haematite is very abundant, but the other rocks
+scarcely appear in the distance; we have mountains both on the east
+and west.
+
+On arriving at Mapuio's village, he was, as often happens, invisible,
+but he sent us a calabash of fresh-made beer, which is very
+refreshing, gave us a hut, and promised to cook for us in the evening.
+We have to employ five or six carriers, and they rule the length of
+the day's march. Those from Chimuna's village growled at the cubit of
+calico with which we paid them, but a few beads pleased them
+perfectly, and we parted good friends. It is not likely I shall ever
+see them again, but I always like to please them, because it is right
+to consider their desires. Is that not what is meant in "Blessed is he
+that considereth the poor"? There is a great deal of good in these
+poor people. In cases of _milando_ they rely on the most distant
+relations and connections to plead their cause, and seldom are they
+disappointed, though time at certain seasons, as for instance at
+present, is felt by all to be precious. Every man appears with hoe or
+axe on shoulder, and the people often only sit down as we pass and
+gaze at us till we are out of sight.
+
+[Illustration: Women's Teeth hollowed.]
+
+Many of the men have large slits in the lobe of the ear, and they have
+their distinctive tribal tattoo. The women indulge in this painful
+luxury more than the men, probably because they have very few
+ornaments. The two central front teeth are hollowed at the cutting
+edge. Many have quite the Grecian facial angle. Mapuio has thin legs
+and quite a European face. Delicate features and limbs are common, and
+the spur-heel is as scarce as among Europeans; small feet and hands
+are the rule.
+
+Clapping the hands in various ways is the polite way of saying "Allow
+me," "I beg pardon," "Permit me to pass," "Thanks," it is resorted to
+in respectful introduction and leave-taking, and also is equivalent to
+"Hear hear." When inferiors are called they respond by two brisk claps
+of the hands, meaning "I am coming." They are very punctilious amongst
+each other. A large ivory bracelet marks the headman of a village;
+there is nothing else to show differences of rank.
+
+_28th October, 1866._--We spent Sunday at Mapuio's and had a long talk
+with him; his country is in a poor state from the continual incursions
+of the Mazitu, who are wholly unchecked.
+
+_29th October, 1866._--We marched westwards to Makosa's village, and
+could not go further, as the next stage is long and through an
+ill-peopled country. The morning was lovely, the whole country bathed
+in bright sunlight, and not a breath of air disturbed the smoke as it
+slowly curled up from the heaps of burning weeds, which the native
+agriculturist wisely destroys. The people generally were busy hoeing
+in the cool of the day. One old man in a village where we rested had
+trained the little hair he had left into a tail, which, well plastered
+with fat, he had bent on itself and laid flat on his crown; another
+was carefully paring a stick for stirring the porridge, and others
+were enjoying the cool shade of the wild fig-trees which are always
+planted at villages. It is a sacred tree all over Africa and India,
+and the tender roots which drop down towards the ground are used as
+medicine--a universal remedy. Can it be a tradition of its being like
+the tree of life, which Archbishop Whately conjectures may have been
+used in Paradise to render man immortal? One kind of fig-tree is often
+seen hacked all over to get the sap, which is used as bird-lime;
+bark-cloth is made of it too. I like to see the men weaving or
+spinning, or reclining under these glorious canopies, as much as I
+love to see our more civilized people lolling on their sofas or
+ottomans.
+
+The first rain--a thunder shower--fell in the afternoon, air in shade
+before it 92°; wet bulb 74°. At noon the soil in the sun was 140°,
+perhaps more, but I was afraid of bursting the thermometer, as it was
+graduated only a few degrees above that. This rain happened at the
+same time that the sun was directly overhead on his way south; it was
+but a quarter of an inch, but its effect was to deprive us of all
+chance of getting the five carriers we needed, all were off to their
+gardens to commit the precious seed to the soil. We got three, but no
+one else would come, so we have to remain here over to-day (30th
+October).
+
+_30th October, 1866._--The black traders come from Tette to this
+country to buy slaves, and as a consequence here we come to bugs
+again, which we left when we passed the Arab slave-traders' beat.
+
+_31st October, 1866._--We proceed westwards, and a little south
+through a country covered with forest trees, thickly planted, but
+small, generally of bark-cloth and gum-copal trees, masukos,
+rhododendrons, and a few acacias. At one place we saw ten wild hogs in
+a group, but no other animal, though marks of elephants, buffaloes,
+and other animals having been about in the wet season were very
+abundant. The first few miles were rather more scant of water than
+usual, but we came to the Leué, a fine little stream with plenty of
+water sand from 20 to 30 yards wide; it is said by the people to flow
+away westwards into the Loangwa.
+
+_1st November 1866._--In the evening we made the Chigumokiré, a nice
+rivulet, where we slept, and the next morning we proceeded to Kangené,
+whose village is situated on a mass of mountains, and to reach which
+we made more southing than we wished. Our appearance on the ascent of
+the hill caused alarm, and we were desired to wait till our spokesman
+had explained the unusual phenomenon of a white man.
+
+This kept us waiting in the hot sun among heated rocks, and the chief,
+being a great ugly public-house-keeper looking person, excused his
+incivility by saying that his brother had been killed by the Mazitu,
+and he was afraid that we were of the same tribe. On asking if Mazitu
+wore clothes like us he told some untruths, and, what has been an
+unusual thing, began to beg powder and other things. I told him how
+other chiefs had treated us, which made him ashamed. He represented
+the country in front to the N.W. to be quite impassable from want of
+food: the Mazitu had stripped it of all provisions, and the people
+were living on what wild fruits they could pick up.
+
+_2nd November, 1866._--Kangené is very disagreeable naturally, and as
+we have to employ five men as carriers, we are in his power.
+
+We can scarcely enter into the feelings of those who are harried by
+marauders. Like Scotland in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries
+harassed by Highland Celts on one side and by English Marchmen on the
+other, and thus kept in the rearward of civilisation, these people
+have rest neither for many days nor for few. When they fill their
+garners they can seldom reckon on eating the grain, for the Mazitu
+come when the harvest is over and catch as many able-bodied young
+persons as they can to carry away the corn. Thus it was in Scotland so
+far as security for life and property was concerned; but the Scotch
+were apt pupils of more fortunate nations. To change of country they
+were as indifferent as the Romans of the olden times; they were always
+welcome in France, either as pilgrims, scholars, merchants, or
+soldiers; but the African is different. If let alone the African's
+mode of life is rather enjoyable; he loves agriculture, and land is to
+be had anywhere. He knows nothing of other countries, but he has
+imbibed the idea of property in man. This Kangené told me that he
+would like to give me a slave to look after my goats: I believe he
+would rather give a slave than a goat!
+
+We were detained by the illness of Simon for four days. When he
+recovered we proposed to the headman to start with five of his men,
+and he agreed to let us have them; but having called them together
+such an enormous demand was made for wages, and in advance, that on
+the 7th of November we took seven loads forward through a level
+uninhabited country generally covered with small trees, slept there,
+and on the morning of the 8th, after leaving two men at our depôt,
+came back, and took the remaining five loads.
+
+Kangené was disagreeable to the last. He asked where we had gone,
+and, having described the turning point as near the hill Chimbimbé, he
+complimented us on going so far, and then sent an offer of three men;
+but I preferred not to have those who would have been spies unless he
+could give five and take on all the loads. He said that he would find
+the number, and after detaining us some hours brought two, one of
+whom, primed with beer, babbled out that he was afraid of being killed
+by us in front. I asked whom we had killed behind, and moved off. The
+headman is very childish, does women's work--cooking and pounding; and
+in all cases of that kind the people take after their leader. The
+chiefs have scarcely any power unless they are men of energy; they
+have to court the people rather than be courted. We came much further
+back on our way from Mapuio's than we liked; in fact, our course is
+like that of a vessel baffled with foul winds: this is mainly owing to
+being obliged to avoid places stripped of provisions or suffering this
+spoliation. The people, too, can give no information about others at a
+distance from their own abodes. Even the smiths, who are a most
+plodding set of workers, are as ignorant as the others: they supply
+the surrounding villages with hoes and knives, and, combining
+agriculture with handicraft, pass through life. An intelligent smith
+came as our guide from Chimbimbé Hill on the 7th, and did not know a
+range of mountains about twenty miles off: "it was too far off for him
+to know the name."
+
+_9th November, 1866._--The country over which we actually travel is
+level and elevated, but there are mountains all about, which when put
+on the map make it appear to be a mountainous region. We are on the
+watershed, apparently between the Loangwa of Zumbo on the west, and
+the Lake on the east. The Leué or Leuia is said by the people to flow
+into the Loangwa. The Chigumokiré coming from the north in front,
+eastward of Irongwé (the same mountains on which Kangené skulks out of
+sight of Mazitu), flows into the Leué, and north of that we have the
+Mando, a little stream, flowing into the Bua. The rivulets on the west
+flow in deep defiles, and the elevation on which we travel makes it
+certain that no water can come from the lower lands on the west. It
+seems that the Portuguese in travelling to Casembe did not inquire of
+the people where the streams they crossed went, for they are often
+wrongly put, and indicate the direction only in which they appeared to
+be flowing at their crossing places. The natives have a good idea
+generally of the rivers into which the streams flow, though they are
+very deficient in information as to the condition of the people that
+live on their banks. Some of the Portuguese questions must have been
+asked through slaves, who would show no hesitation in answering.
+Maxinga, or Machinga, means "mountains" only; once or twice it is put
+down Saxa de Maxinga, or Machinga, or Mcanga, which translated from
+the native tongue means "rocks of mountains, or mountains of rocks."
+
+_10th November, 1866._--We found the people on the Mando to be Chawa
+or Ajawa, but not of the Waiyau race: they are Manganja, and this is a
+village of smiths. We got five men readily to go back and bring up our
+loads; and the sound of the hammer is constant, showing a great deal
+of industry. They combine agriculture, and hunting with nets, with
+their handicraft.
+
+A herd of buffaloes came near the village, and I went and shot one,
+thus procuring a supply of meat for the whole party and villagers too.
+The hammer which we hear from dawn till sunset is a large stone, bound
+with the strong inner bark of a tree, and loops left which form
+handles. Two pieces of bark form the tongs, and a big stone sunk into
+the ground the anvil. They make several hoes in a day, and the metal
+is very good; it is all from yellow haematite, which abounds all over
+this part of the country; the bellows consist of two goatskins with
+sticks at the open ends, which are opened and shut at every blast.
+
+[Illustration: Forging Hoes.]
+
+_13th November, 1866._--A lion came last night and gave a growl or two
+on finding he could not get our meat: a man had lent us a hunting net
+to protect it and us from intruders of this sort. The people kept up a
+shouting for hours afterwards, in order to keep him away by the human
+voice.
+
+We might have gone on, but I had a galled heel from new shoes. Wild
+figs are rather nice when quite ripe.
+
+_14th November, 1866._--We marched northwards round the end of Chisia
+Hill, and remained for the night at a blacksmith's, or rather
+founder's village; the two occupations of founder and smith are
+always united, and boys taught to be smiths in Europe or India would
+find themselves useless if unable to smelt the ore. A good portion of
+the trees of the country have been cut down for charcoal, and those
+which now spring up are small; certain fruit trees alone are left. The
+long slopes on the undulating country, clothed with fresh foliage,
+look very beautiful. The young trees alternate with patches of yellow
+grass not yet burned; the hills are covered with a thick mantle of
+small green trees with, as usual, large ones at intervals. The people
+at Kalumbi, on the Mando (where we spent four days), had once a
+stockade of wild fig _(Ficus Indica)_ and euphorbia round their
+village, which has a running rill on each side of it; but the trees
+which enabled them to withstand a siege by Mazitu fell before
+elephants and buffaloes during a temporary absence of the villagers;
+the remains of the stockade are all around it yet. Lions sometimes
+enter huts by breaking through the roof: elephants certainly do, for
+we saw a roof destroyed by one; the only chance for the inmates is to
+drive a spear into the belly of the beast while so engaged.
+
+A man came and reported the Mazitu to be at Chanyandula's village,
+where we are going. The headman advised remaining at his village till
+we saw whether they came this way or went by another path. The women
+were sent away, but the men went on with their employments; two
+proceeded with the building of a furnace on an anthill, where they are
+almost always placed, and they keep a look-out while working. We have
+the protection of an all-embracing Providence, and trust that He,
+whose care of His people Ťxceeds all that our utmost self-love can
+attain, will shield us and make our way prosperous.
+
+_16th November, 1866._--An elephant came near enough last night to
+scream at us, but passed on, warned, perhaps, by the shouting of the
+villagers not to meddle with man. No Mazitu having come, we marched on
+and crossed the Bua, eight yards wide and knee deep. It rises in the
+northern hills a little beyond Kanyindula's village, winds round his
+mountains, and away to the east. The scenery among the mountains is
+very lovely: they are covered with a close mantle of green, with here
+and there red and light-coloured patches, showing where grass has been
+burned off recently and the red clay soil is exposed; the lighter
+portions are unburned grass or rocks. Large trees are here more
+numerous, and give an agreeable change of contour to the valleys and
+ridges of the hills; the boughs of many still retain a tinge of red
+from young leaves. We came to the Bua again before reaching Kanyenjé,
+as Kanyindula's place is called. The iron trade must have been carried
+on for an immense time in the country, for one cannot go a quarter of
+a mile without meeting pieces of slag and broken pots, calcined pipes,
+and fragments of the furnaces, which are converted by the fire into
+brick. It is curious that the large stone sledge-hammers now in use
+are not called by the name stone-hammers, but by a distinct word,
+"kama:" nyundo is one made of iron.
+
+When we arrived at Kanyenjé, Kanyindula was out collecting charcoal.
+He sent a party of men to ask if we should remain next day: an old,
+unintellectual-looking man was among the number sent, who had
+twenty-seven rings of elephant's skin on his arm, all killed by
+himself by the spear alone: he had given up fighting elephants since
+the Mazitu came, whom we heard had passed away to the south-east of
+this place, taking all the crops of last year, and the chief alone has
+food. He gave us some, which was very acceptable, as we got none at
+the two villages south of this. Kanyindula came himself in the
+evening, an active, stern-looking man, but we got on very well with
+him.
+
+The people say that they were taught to smelt iron by Chisumpi, which
+is the name of Mulungu (God), and that they came from Lake Nyassa
+originally; if so, they are greatly inferior to the Manganja on the
+Lake in pottery, for the fragments, as well as modern whole vessels,
+are very coarse; the ornamentation is omitted or merely dots. They
+never heard of aërolites, but know hail.
+
+I notice here that the tree Mfu, or Mö, having sweet-scented leaves,
+yields an edible plum in clusters. Bua-bwa is another edible
+fruit-tree with palmated leaves.
+
+Mbéu is a climbing, arboraceous plant, and yields a very pleasant
+fruit, which tastes like gooseberries: its seeds are very minute.
+
+_18th and 19th November, 1866._--Rain fell heavily yesterday
+afternoon, and was very threatening to-day; we remain to sew a calico
+tent.
+
+_20th November, 1866._--Kanyindula came with three carriers this
+morning instead of five, and joined them in demanding prepayment: it
+was natural for him to side with them, as they have more power than he
+has, in fact, the chiefs in these parts all court their people, and he
+could feel more interest in them than in an entire stranger whom he
+might never see again: however, we came on without his people, leaving
+two to guard the loads.
+
+About four miles up the valley we came to a village named Kanyenjeré
+Mponda, at the fountain-eye of the Bua, and thence sent men back for
+the loads, while we had the shelter of good huts during a heavy
+thunder-shower, and made us willing to remain all night. The valley is
+lovely in the extreme. The mountains on each side are gently rounded,
+and, as usual, covered over with tree foliage, except where the red
+soil is exposed by recent grass-burnings. Quartz rocks jut out, and
+much drift of that material has been carried down by the gullies into
+the bottom. These gullies being in compact clay, the water has but
+little power of erosion, so they are worn deep but narrow. Some
+fragments of titaniferous iron ore, with haematite changed by heat,
+and magnetic, lay in the gully, which had worn itself a channel on
+the north side of the village. The Bua, like most African streams
+whose sources I have seen, rises in an oozing boggy spot. Another
+stream, the Tembwé, rises near the same spot, and flows N.W. into, the
+Loangwa. We saw Shuaré palms in its bed.
+
+_21st November, 1866._--We left Bua fountain, lat. 13° 40' south, and
+made a short march to Mokatoba, a stockaded village, where the people
+refused to admit us till the headman, came. They have a little food
+here, and sold us some. We have been on rather short commons for some
+time, and this made our detention agreeable. We rose a little in
+altitude after leaving this morning, then, though in the same valley,
+made a little descent towards the N.N.W. High winds came driving over
+the eastern range, which is called Mchinjé, and bring large masses of
+clouds, which are the rain-givers. They seem to come from the
+south-east. The scenery of the valley is lovely and rich in the
+extreme. All the foliage is fresh washed and clean; young herbage is
+bursting through the ground; the air is deliciously cool, and the
+birds are singing joyfully: one, called Mzié, is a good songster, with
+a loud melodious voice. Large game abounds, but we do not meet with
+it.
+
+We are making our way slowly to the north, where food is said to be
+abundant. I divided about 50 lbs. of powder among the people of my
+following to shoot with, and buy goats or other food as we could. This
+reduces our extra loads to three--four just now, Simon being sick
+again. He rubbed goat's-fat on a blistered surface, and caused an
+eruption of pimples.
+
+_Mem._--The people assent by lifting up the head instead of nodding it
+down as we do; deaf mutes are said to do the same.
+
+_22nd November, 1866._--Leaving Mokatoba village, and proceeding down
+the valley, which on the north is shut up apparently by a mountain
+called Kokwé, we crossed the Kasamba, about two miles from Mokatoba,
+and yet found it, though so near its source, four yards wide, and knee
+deep. Its source is about a mile above Mokatoba, in the same valley,
+with the Bua and Tembwé. We were told that elephants were near, and we
+saw where they had been an hour before; but after seeking about could
+not find them. An old man, in the deep defile between Kokwé and Yasika
+Mountains, pointed to the latter, and said, "Elephants! why, there
+they are. Elephants, or tusks, walking on foot are never absent;" but
+though we were eager for flesh, we could not give him credit, and went
+down the defile which gives rise to the Sandili River: where we
+crossed it in the defile, it was a mere rill, having large trees along
+its banks, yet it is said to go to the Loangwa of Zumbo, N.W. or
+N.N.W. We were now in fact upon the slope which inclines to that
+river, and made a rapid descent in altitude. We reached Silubi's
+village, on the base of a rocky detached hill. No food to be had; all
+taken by Mazitu, so Silubi gave me some Masuko fruit instead. They
+find that they can keep the Mazitu off by going up a rocky eminence,
+and hurling stones and arrows down on the invaders: they can defend
+themselves also by stockades, and these are becoming very general.
+
+On leaving Silubi's village, we went to a range of hills, and after
+passing through found that we had a comparatively level country on the
+north: it would be called a well-wooded country if we looked at it
+only from a distance. It is formed into long ridges, all green and
+wooded; but clumps of large trees, where villages have been, or are
+still situated, show that the sylvan foliage around and over the whole
+country is that of mere hop-poles. The whole of this upland region
+might be called woody, if we bear in mind that where the population is
+dense, and has been long undisturbed, the trees are cut down to the
+size of low bush. Large districts are kept to about the size of
+hop-poles, growing on pollards three or four feet from the ground, by
+charcoal burners, who, in all instances, are smiths too.
+
+On reaching Zeoré's village, on the Lokuzhwa, we found it stockaded,
+and stagnant pools round three sides of it. The Mazitu had come,
+pillaged all the surrounding villages, looked at this, and then went
+away; so the people had food to sell. They here call themselves
+Echéwa, and have a different marking from the Atumboka. The men have
+the hair dressed as if a number of the hairs of elephants' tails were
+stuck around the head: the women wear a small lip-ring, and a straw or
+piece of stick in the lower lip, which dangles down about level with
+the lower edge of the chin: their clothing in front is very scanty.
+The men know nothing of distant places, the Manganja being a very
+stay-at-home people. The stockades are crowded with huts, and the
+children have but small room to play in the narrow spaces between.
+
+_25th November, 1866._--Sunday at Zeoré's. The villagers thought we
+prayed for rain, which was much needed. The cracks in the soil have
+not yet come together by the Ťwelling of soil produced by moisture. I
+disabused their minds about rain-making prayers, and found the headman
+intelligent.
+
+I did not intend to notice the Lokuzhwa, it is such a contemptible
+little rill, and not at present running; but in going to our next
+point, Mpandé's village, we go along its valley, and cross it several
+times, as it makes for the Loangwa in the north. The valley is of rich
+dark red loam, and so many lilies of the Amaryllis kind have
+established themselves as completely to mask the colour of the soil.
+They form a covering of pure white where the land has been cleared by
+the hoe. As we go along this valley to the Loangwa, we descend in
+altitude. It is said to rise at "Nombé rumé," as we formerly heard.
+
+_27th November, 1866._--Zeoré's people would not carry without
+prepayment, so we left our extra loads as usual and went on, sending
+men back for them: these, however, did not come till 27th, and then
+two of my men got fever. I groan in spirit, and do not know how to
+make our gear into nine loads only. It is the knowledge that we shall
+be detained, some two or three months during the heavy rains that
+makes me cleave to it as means of support.
+
+Advantage has been taken by the people, of spots where the Lokuzhwa
+goes round three parts of a circle, to erect their stockaded villages.
+This is the case here, and the water, being stagnant, engenders
+disease. The country abounds in a fine light blue flowering perennial
+pea, which the people make use of as a relish. At present the blossoms
+only are collected and boiled. On inquiring the name, _chilóbé_, the
+men asked me if we had none in our country. On replying in the
+negative, they looked with pity on us: "What a wretched, country not
+to have chilóbé." It is on the highlands above; we never saw it
+elsewhere! Another species of pea _(Chilobé Weza)_, with reddish
+flowers, is eaten in the same way; but it has spread but little in
+comparison. It is worth remarking that porridge of maize or sorghum is
+never offered without some pulse, beans, or bean leaves, or flowers,
+they seem to feel the need of it, or of pulse, which is richer in
+flesh-formers than the porridge.
+
+Last night a loud clapping of hands by the men was followed by several
+half-suppressed screams by a woman. They were quite _eldritch_, as if
+she could not get them out. Then succeeded a lot of utterances as if
+she were in ecstasy, to which a man responded, "Moio, moio." The
+utterances, so far as I could catch, were in five-syllable
+snatches--abrupt and laboured. I wonder if this "bubbling or boiling
+over" has been preserved as the form in which the true prophets of old
+gave forth their "burdens"? One sentence, frequently repeated towards
+the close of the effusion, was "_linyama uta_," "flesh of the bow,"
+showing that the Pythoness loved venison killed by the bow. The people
+applauded, and attended, hoping, I suppose, that rain would follow her
+efforts. Next day she was duly honoured by drumming and dancing.[35]
+
+Prevalent beliefs seem to be persistent in certain tribes. That
+strange idea of property in man that permits him to be sold to another
+is among the Arabs, Manganja, Makoa, Waiyau, but not among Kaffirs or
+Zulus, and Bechuanas. If we exclude the Arabs, two families of
+Africans alone are slavers on the east side of the Continent.
+
+_30th November, 1866._--We march to Chilunda's or Embora's, still on
+the Lokuzhwa, now a sand-stream about twenty yards wide, with pools in
+its bed; its course is pretty much north or N.N.W. We are now near the
+Loangwa country, covered with a dense dwarf forest, and the people
+collected in stockades. This village is on a tongue of land (between
+Lokuzhwa and another sluggish rivulet), chosen for its strength. It is
+close to a hill named Chipemba, and there are ranges of hills both
+east and west in the distance. Embora came to visit us soon after we
+arrived--a tall man with a Yankee face. He was very much tickled when
+asked if he were a Motumboka. After indulging in laughter at the idea
+of being one of such a small tribe of Manganja, he said proudly, "That
+he belonged to the Echéwa, who inhabited all the country to which I
+was going." They are generally smiths; a mass of iron had just been
+brought in to him from some outlying furnaces. It is made into hoes,
+which are sold for native cloths down the Loangwa.
+
+_3rd December, 1866._--March through a hilly country covered with
+dwarf forest to Kandé's village, still on the Lokuzhwa. We made some
+westing. The village was surrounded by a dense hedge of bamboo and a
+species of bushy fig that loves edges of water-bearing streams: it is
+not found where the moisture is not perennial. Kandé is a fine tall
+smith; I asked him if he knew his antecedents; he said he had been
+bought by Babisa at Chipéta, and left at Chilunda's, and therefore
+belonged to no one. Two Waiyau now volunteered to go on with us, and
+as they declared their masters were killed by the Mazitu, and Kandé
+seemed to confirm them, we let them join. In general, runaway slaves
+are bad characters, but these two seem good men, and we want them to
+fill up our complement: another volunteer we employ as goatherd.
+
+A continuous tap-tapping in the villages shows that bark cloth is
+being made. The bark, on being removed from the-tree, is steeped in
+water, or in a black muddy hole, till the outer of the two inner barks
+can be separated, then commences the tapping with a mallet to separate
+and soften the fibres. The head of this is often of ebony, with the
+face cut into small furrows, which, without breaking, separate and
+soften the fibres.
+
+[Illustration.]
+
+_4th December, 1866._--Marched westwards, over a hilly, dwarf
+forest-covered country: as we advanced, trees increased in size, but
+no people inhabited it; we spent a miserable night at Katétté, wetted
+by a heavy thunder-shower, which lasted a good while. Morning _(5th
+December_) muggy, clouded all over, and rolling thunder in distance.
+Went three hours with, for a wonder, no water, but made westing
+chiefly, and got on to the Lokuzhwa again: all the people are
+collected on it.
+
+_6th December, 1866._--Too ill to march.
+
+_7th December, 1866._--Went on, and passed Mesumbé's village, also
+protected by bamboos, and came to the hill Mparawé, with a village
+perched on its northern base and well up its sides. The Babisa have
+begun to imitate the Mazitu by attacking and plundering Manganja
+villages. Muasi's brother was so attacked, and now is here and eager
+to attack in return. In various villages we have observed miniature
+huts, about two feet high, very neatly thatched and plastered, here we
+noticed them in dozens. On inquiring, we were told that when a child
+or relative dies one is made, and when any pleasant food is cooked or
+beer brewed, a little is placed in the tiny hut for the departed soul,
+which is believed to enjoy it.
+
+The Lokuzhwa is here some fifty yards wide, and running. Numerous
+large pitholes in the fine-grained schist in its bed show that much
+water has flowed in it.
+
+_8th December, 1866._--A kind of bean called "chitetta" is eaten here,
+it is an old acquaintance in the Bechuana country, where it is called
+"mositsané," and is a mere plant; here it becomes a tree, from fifteen
+to twenty feet high. The root is used for tanning; the bean is
+pounded, and then put into a sieve of bark cloth to extract, by
+repeated washings, the excessively astringent matter it contains.
+Where the people have plenty of water, as here, it is used copiously
+in various processes, among Bechuanas it is scarce, and its many uses
+unknown: the pod becomes from fifteen to eighteen inches long, and an
+inch in diameter.
+
+_9th December, 1866._--A poor child, whose mother had died, was
+unprovided for; no one not a relative will nurse another's child. It
+called out piteously for its mother by name, and the women (like the
+servants in the case of the poet Cowper when a child), said, "She is
+coming." I gave it a piece of bread, but it was too far gone, and is
+dead to-day.
+
+An alarm of Mazitu sent all the villagers up the sides of Mparawé
+this morning. The affair was a chase of a hyaena, but everything is
+Mazitu! The Babisa came here, but were surrounded and nearly all cut
+off. Muasi was so eager to be off with a party to return the attack on
+the Mazitu, that, when deputed by the headman to give us a guide, he
+got the man to turn at the first village, so we had to go on without
+guides, and made about due north.
+
+_11th December, 1866._--We are now detained in the forest, at a place
+called Chondé Forest, by set-in rains. It rains every day, and
+generally in the afternoon; but the country is not wetted till the
+"set-in" rains commence; the cracks in the soil then fill up and
+everything rushes up with astonishing rapidity; the grass is quite
+crisp and soft. After the fine-grained schist, we came on granite with
+large flakes of talc in it. This forest is of good-sized trees, many
+of them mopané. The birds now make much melody and noise--all intent
+on building.
+
+_12th December, 1866._--Across an undulating forest country north we
+got a man to show us the way, if a pathless forest can so be called.
+We used a game-path as long as it ran north, but left it when it
+deviated, and rested under a baobab-tree with a marabou's nest--a
+bundle of sticks on a branch; the young ones uttered a hard chuck,
+chuck, when the old ones flew over them. A sun-bird, with bright
+scarlet throat and breast, had its nest on another branch, it was
+formed like the weaver's nest, but without a tube. I observed the dam
+picking out insects from the bark and leaves of the baobab, keeping on
+the wing the while: it would thus appear to be insectivorous as well
+as a honey-bibber. Much spoor of elands, zebras, gnus, kamas, pallahs,
+buffaloes, reed-bucks, with tsetse, their parasites.
+
+_13th December, 1866._--Reached the Tokosusi, which is said to rise at
+Nombé Rumé, about twenty yards wide and knee deep, swollen by the
+rains: it had left a cake of black tenacious mud on its banks. Here I
+got a pallah antelope, and a very strange flower called "katendé,"
+which was a whorl of seventy-two flowers sprung from a flat, round
+root; but it cannot be described. Our guide would have crossed the
+Tokosusi, which was running north-west to join the Loangwa, and then
+gone to that river; but always when we have any difficulty the
+"lazies" exhibit themselves. We had no grain; and three remained
+behind spending four hours at what we did in an hour and a quarter.
+Our guide became tired and turned, not before securing another; but he
+would not go over the Loangwa; no one likes to go out of his own
+country: he would go westwards to Maranda's, and nowhere else. A
+"set-in" rain came on after dark, and we went on through slush, the
+trees sending down heavier drops than the showers as we neared the
+Loangwa; we forded several deep gullies, all flowing north or
+north-west into it. The paths were running with water, and when we
+emerged from the large Mopané Forest, we came on the plain of
+excessively adhesive mud, on which Maranda's stronghold stands on the
+left bank of Loangwa, here a good-sized river. The people were all
+afraid of us, and we were mortified to find that food is scarce. The
+Mazitu have been here three times, and the fear they have inspired,
+though they were successfully repelled, has prevented agricultural
+operations from being carried on.
+
+_Mem._--A flake of reed is often used in surgical operations among the
+natives, as being sharper than their knives.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[34] A cloth means two yards of unbleached calico.
+
+[35] Chuma remembers part of the words of her song to be as follows:--
+
+Kowé! kowé! n'andambwi, M'vula léru, korolé ko okwé, Waie, ona, kordi,
+mvula!
+
+He cannot translate it as it is pure Manganja, but with the exception
+of the first line--which relates to a little song-bird with a
+beautiful note, it is a mere reiteration "rain will surely come
+to-day."--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Crosses the Loangwa. Distressing march. The king-hunter. Great
+    hunger. Christmas feast necessarily postponed. Loss of goats.
+    Honey-hunters. A meal at last. The Babisa. The Mazitu again.
+    Chitembo's. End of 1866. The new year. The northern brim of the
+    great Loangwa Valley. Accident to chronometers. Meal gives out.
+    Escape from a Cobra capella. Pushes for the Chambezé. Death of
+    Chitané. Great pinch for food. Disastrous loss of medicine
+    chest. Bead currency. Babisa. The Chambezé. Beaches
+    Chitapangwa's town. Meets Arab traders from Zanzibar. Sends off
+    letters. Chitapangwa and his people. Complications.
+
+
+_16th December, 1866._--We could get no food at any price on 15th, so
+we crossed the Loangwa, and judged it to be from seventy to a hundred
+yards wide: it is deep at present, and it must always be so, for some
+Atumboka submitted to the Mazitu, and ferried them over and back
+again. The river is said to rise in the north; it has alluvial banks
+with large forest trees along them, bottom sandy, and great sandbanks
+are in it like the Zambesi. No guide would come, so we went on without
+one. The "lazies" of the party seized the opportunity of remaining
+behind--wandering, as they said, though all the cross paths were
+marked.[36] This evening we secured the latitude 12° 40' 48" S., which
+would make our crossing place about 12° 45' S. Clouds prevented
+observations, as they usually do in the rainy season.
+
+_17 December, 1866._--We went on through a bushy country without
+paths, and struck the Pamazi, a river of sixty yards wide, in steep
+banks and in flood, and held on as well as we could through a very
+difficult country, the river forcing us north-west: I heard
+hippopotami in it. Game is abundant but wild; we shot two poku
+antelopes[37] here, called "tsébulas," which drew a hunter to us, who
+consented for meat and pay to show us a ford. He said that the Pamazi
+rises in a range of mountains we can now see (in general we could see
+no high ground during our marches for the last fortnight), we forded
+it, thigh deep on one side and breast deep on the other. We made only
+about three miles of northing, and found the people on the left bank
+uncivil: they would not lend a hut, so we soon put up a tent of
+waterproof cloth and branches.
+
+_18th December, 1866._--As the men grumbled at their feet being
+pierced by thorns in the trackless portions we had passed I was
+anxious to get a guide, but the only one we could secure would go to
+Molenga's only; so I submitted, though this led us east instead of
+north. When we arrived we were asked what we wanted, seeing we brought
+neither slaves nor ivory: I replied it was much against our will that
+we came; but the guide had declared that this was the only way to
+Casembe's, our next stage. To get rid of us they gave a guide, and we
+set forward northwards. The Mopané Forest is perfectly level, and
+after rains the water stands in pools; but during most of the year it
+is dry. The trees here were very large, and planted some twenty or
+thirty yards apart: as there are no branches on their lower parts
+animals see very far. I shot a gnu, but wandered in coming back to the
+party, and did not find them till it was getting dark. Many parts of
+the plain are thrown up into heaps, of about the size of one's cap
+(probably by crabs), which now, being hard, are difficult to walk
+over; under the trees it is perfectly smooth. The Mopané-tree
+furnishes the iron wood of the Portuguese Pao Ferro: it is pretty to
+travel in and look at the bright sunshine of early morning; but the
+leaves hang perpendicularly as the sun rises high, and afford little
+or no shade through the day,[38] so as the land is clayey, it becomes
+hard-baked thereby.
+
+We observed that the people had placed corn-granaries at
+different parts of this forest, and had been careful to leave no
+track to them--a provision in case of further visits of Mazitu.
+King-hunters[39] abound, and make the air resound with their
+stridulous notes, which commence with a sharp, shrill cheep, and then
+follows a succession of notes, which resembles a pea in a whistle.
+Another bird is particularly conspicuous at present by its chattering
+activity, its nest consists of a bundle of fine seed-stalks of grass
+hung at the end of a branch, the free ends being left untrimmed, and
+no attempt at concealment made. Many other birds are now active, and
+so many new notes are heard, that it is probable this is a richer
+ornithological region than the Zambesi. Guinea-fowl and francolins are
+in abundance, and so indeed are all the other kinds of game, as
+zebras, pallahs, gnus.
+
+_19th December, 1866._--I got a fine male kudu. We have no grain, and
+live on meat alone, but I am better off than the men, inasmuch as I
+get a little goat's-milk besides. The kudu stood five feet six inches
+high; horns, three feet on the straight.
+
+_20th December, 1866._--Reached Casembe,[40] a miserable hamlet of a
+few huts. The people here are very suspicious, and will do nothing but
+with a haggle for prepayment; we could get no grain, nor even native
+herbs, though we rested a day to try.
+
+After a short march we came to the Nyamazi, another considerable
+rivulet coming from the north to fall into the Loangwa. It has the
+same character, of steep alluvial banks, as Pamazi, and about the same
+width, but much shallower; loin deep, though somewhat swollen; from
+fifty to sixty yards wide. We came to some low hills, of coarse
+sandstone, and on crossing these we could see, by looking back, that
+for many days we had been travelling over a perfectly level valley,
+clothed with a mantle of forest. The barometers had shown no
+difference of level from about 1800 feet above the sea. We began our
+descent into this great valley when we left the source of the Bua; and
+now these low hills, called Ngalé or Ngaloa, though only 100 feet or
+so above the level we had left, showed that we had come to the shore
+of an ancient lake, which probably was let off when the rent of
+Kebra-basa on the Zambesi was made, for we found immense banks of
+well-rounded shingle above--or, rather, they may be called mounds of
+shingle--all of hard silicious schist with a few pieces of fossil-wood
+among them. The gullies reveal a stratum of this well-rounded shingle,
+lying on a soft greenish sandstone, which again lies on the coarse
+sandstone first observed. This formation is identical with that
+observed formerly below the Victoria Falls. We have the mountains
+still on our north and north-west (the so-called mountains of Bisa, or
+Babisa), and from them the Nyamazi flows, while Pamazi comes round the
+end, or what appears to be the end, of the higher portion. _(22nd
+December, 1866.)_ Shot a bush-buck; and slept on the left bank of
+Nyamazi.
+
+_23rd December, 1866._--Hunger sent us on; for a meat diet is far from
+satisfying: we all felt very weak on it, and soon tired on a march,
+but to-day we hurried on to Kavimba, who successfully beat off the
+Mazitu. It is very hot, and between three and four hours is a good
+day's march. On sitting down to rest before entering the village we
+were observed, and all the force of the village issued to kill us as
+Mazitu, but when we stood up the mistake was readily perceived, and
+the arrows were placed again in their quivers. In the hut four Mazitu
+shields show that they did not get it all their own way; they are
+miserable imitations of Zulu shields, made of eland and water-buck's
+hides, and ill sewn.
+
+A very small return present was made by Kavimba, and nothing could be
+bought except at exorbitant prices. We remained all day on the 24th
+haggling and trying to get some grain. He took a fancy to a shirt, and
+left it to his wife to bargain for. She got the length of cursing and
+swearing, and we bore it, but could get only a small price for it. We
+resolved to hold our Christmas some other day, and in a better place.
+The women seem ill-regulated here--Kavimba's brother had words with
+his spouse, and at the end of every burst of vociferation on both
+sides called out, "Bring the Muavi! bring the Muavi!" or ordeal.
+
+_Christmas-day, 1866._--No one being willing to guide us to Moerwa's,
+I hinted to Kavimba that should we see a rhinoceros I would kill it.
+He came himself, and led us on where he expected to find these
+animals, but we saw only their footsteps. We lost our four goats
+somewhere--stolen or strayed in the pathless forest, we do not know
+which, but the loss I felt very keenly, for whatever kind of food we
+had, a little milk made all right, and I felt strong and well, but
+coarse food hard of digestion without it was very trying. We spent the
+26th in searching for them, but all in vain. Kavimba had a boy
+carrying two huge elephant spears, with these he attacks that large
+animal single-handed. We parted from him, as I thought, good friends,
+but a man who volunteered to act as guide saw him in the forest
+afterwards, and was counselled by him to leave us as we should not
+pay him. This hovering near us after we parted makes me suspect
+Kavimba of taking the goats, but I am not certain. The loss affected
+me more than I could have imagined. A little indigestible porridge, of
+scarcely any taste, is now my fare, and it makes me dream of better.
+
+_27th December, 1866._--Our guide asked for his cloth to wear on the
+way, as it was wet and raining, and his bark cloth was a miserable
+covering. I consented, and he bolted on the first opportunity; the
+forest being so dense he was soon out of reach of pursuit: he had been
+advised to this by Kavimba, and nothing else need have been expected.
+We then followed the track of a travelling party of Babisa, but the
+grass springs up over the paths, and it was soon lost: the rain had
+fallen early in these parts, and the grass was all in seed. In the
+afternoon we came to the hills in the north where Nyamazi rises, and
+went up the bed of a rivulet for some time, and then ascended out of
+the valley. At the bottom of the ascent and in the rivulet the shingle
+stratum was sometimes fifty feet thick, then as we ascended we met
+mica schist tilted on edge, then grey gneiss, and last an igneous trap
+among quartz rocks, with a great deal of bright mica and talc in them.
+On resting near the top of the first ascent two honey hunters came to
+us. They were using the honey-guide as an aid, the bird came to us as
+they arrived, waited quietly during the half-hour they smoked and
+chatted, and then went on with them.[41]
+
+The tsetse flies, which were very numerous at the bottom, came up the
+ascent with us, but as we increased our altitude by another thousand
+feet they gradually dropped off and left us: only one remained in the
+evening, and he seemed out of spirits. Near sunset we encamped by
+water on the cool height, and made our shelters with boughs of leafy
+trees; mine was rendered perfect by Dr. Stenhouse's invaluable patent
+cloth, which is very superior to mackintosh: indeed the india-rubber
+cloth is not to be named in the same day with it.
+
+_28th December, 1866._--Three men, going to hunt bees, came to us as
+we were starting and assured us that Moerwa's was near. The first
+party had told us the same thing, and so often have we gone long
+distances as "_pafupi_" (near), when in reality they were "_patari_"
+(far), that we begin to think _pafupi_ means "I wish you to go there,"
+and _patari_ the reverse. In this case _near_ meant an hour and
+three-quarters from our sleeping-place to Moerwa's!
+
+When we look back from the height to which we have ascended we see a
+great plain clothed with dark green forest except at the line of
+yellowish grass, where probably the Loangwa flows. On the east and
+south-east this plain is bounded at the extreme range of our vision by
+a wall of dim blue mountains forty or fifty miles off. The Loangwa is
+said to rise in the Chibalé country due north of this Malambwé (in
+which district Moerwa's village is situated), and to flow S.E., then
+round to where we found it.
+
+Moerwa came to visit me in my hut, a rather stupid man, though he has
+a well-shaped and well-developed forehead, and tried the usual little
+arts of getting us to buy all we need here though the prices are
+exorbitant. "No people in front, great hunger there." "We must buy
+food here and carry it to support us." On asking the names of the next
+headman he would not inform me, till I told him to try and speak like
+a man; he then told us that the first Lobemba chief was Motuna, and
+the next Chafunga. We have nothing, as we saw no animals in our way
+hither, and hunger is ill to bear. By giving Moerwa a good large cloth
+he was induced to cook a mess of maëre or millet and elephant's
+stomach; it was so good to get a full meal that I could have given
+him another cloth, and the more so as it was accompanied by a message
+that he would cook more next day and in larger quantity. On inquiring
+next evening he said "the man had told lies," he had cooked nothing
+more: he was prone to lie himself, and was a rather bad specimen of a
+chief.
+
+The Babisa have round bullet heads, snub noses, often high
+cheek-bones, an upward slant of the eyes, and look as if they had a
+lot of Bushman blood in them, and a good many would pass for Bushmen
+or Hottentots. Both Babisa and Waiyau may have a mixture of the race,
+which would account for their roving habits. The women have the
+fashion of exposing the upper part of the buttocks by letting a very
+stiff cloth fall down behind. Their teeth are filed to points, they
+wear no lip-ring, and the hair is parted so as to lie in a net at the
+back part of the head. The mode of salutation among the men is to lie
+down nearly on the back, clapping the hands, and making a rather
+inelegant half-kissing sound with the lips.
+
+_29th December, 1866._--We remain a day at Malambwé, but get nothing
+save a little maëre,[42] which grates in the teeth and in the stomach.
+To prevent the Mazitu starving them they cultivate small round patches
+placed at wide intervals in the forest, with which the country is
+covered. The spot, some ten yards or a little more in diameter, is
+manured with ashes and planted with this millet and pumpkins, in order
+that should Mazitu come they may be unable to carry off the pumpkins,
+or gather the millet, the seed of which is very small. They have no
+more valour than the other Africans, but more craft, and are much
+given to falsehood. They will not answer common questions except by
+misstatements, but this may arise in our case from our being in
+disfavour, because we will not sell all our goods to them for ivory.
+
+_30th December, 1866._--Marched for Chitemba's, because it is said he
+has not fled from the Mazitu, and therefore has food to spare. While
+resting, Moerwa, with all his force of men, women, and dogs, came up,
+on his way to hunt elephants. The men were furnished with big spears,
+and their dogs are used to engage the animal's attention while they
+spear it; the women cook the meat and make huts, and a smith goes with
+them to mend any spear that may be broken.
+
+We pass over level plateaux on which the roads are wisely placed, and
+do not feel that we are travelling in a mountainous region. It is all
+covered with dense forest, which in many cases is pollarded, from
+being cut for bark cloth or for hunting purposes. Masuko fruit
+abounds. From the cisalpinae and gum-copal trees bark cloth is made.
+
+We now come to large masses of haematite, which is often ferruginous:
+there is conglomerate too, many quartz pebbles being intermixed. It
+seems as if when the lakes existed in the lower lands, the higher
+levels gave forth great quantities of water from chalybeate fountains,
+which deposited this iron ore. Grey granite or quartz with talc in it
+or gneiss lie under the haematite.
+
+The forest resounds with singing birds, intent on nidification.
+Francolins abound, but are wild. "Whip-poor-wills," and another bird,
+which has a more laboured treble note and voice--"Oh, oh, oh!" Gay
+flowers blush unseen, but the people have a good idea of what is
+eatable and what not. I looked at a woman's basket of leaves which she
+had collected for supper, and it contained eight or ten kinds, with
+mushrooms and orchidaceous flowers. We have a succession of showers
+to-day, from N.E. and E.N.E. We are uncertain when we shall come to a
+village, as the Babisa will not tell us where they are situated. In
+the evening we encamped beside a little rill, and made our shelters,
+but we had so little to eat that I dreamed the night long of dinners I
+had eaten, and might have been eating.
+
+I shall make this beautiful land better known, which is an essential
+part of the process by which it will become the "pleasant haunts of
+men." It is impossible to describe its rich luxuriance, but most of it
+is running to waste through the slave-trade and internal wars.
+
+_31st December, 1866._--When we started this morning after rain, all
+the trees and grass dripping, a lion roared, but we did not see him. A
+woman had come a long way and built a neat miniature hut in the
+burnt-out ruins of her mother's house: the food-offering she placed in
+it, and the act of filial piety, no doubt comforted this poor
+mourner's heart!
+
+We arrived at Chitembo's village and found it deserted. The Babisa
+dismantle their huts and carry off the thatch to their gardens, where
+they live till harvest is over. This fallowing of the framework
+destroys many insects, but we observed that wherever Babisa and Arab
+slavers go they leave the breed of the domestic bug: it would be well
+if that were all the ill they did! Chitembo was working in his garden
+when we arrived, but soon came, and gave us the choice of all the
+standing huts: he is an old man, much more frank and truthful than our
+last headman, and says that Chitapanga is paramount chief of all the
+Abemba.
+
+Three or four women whom we saw performing a rain dance at Moerwa's
+were here doing the same; their faces smeared with meal, and axes in
+their hands, imitating as well as they could the male voice. I got
+some maëre or millet here and a fowl.
+
+We now end 1866. It has not been so fruitful or useful as I intended.
+Will try to do better in 1867, and be better--more gentle and loving;
+and may the Almighty, to whom I commit my way, bring my desires to
+pass, and prosper me! Let all the sins of '66 be blotted out for
+Jesus' sake.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_1st January, 1867._--May He who was full of grace and truth impress
+His character on mine. Grace--eagerness to show favour;
+truth--truthfulness, sincerity, honour--for His mercy's sake.
+
+We remain to-day at Mbulukuta-Chitembo's district, by the boys'
+desire, because it is New Year's day, and also because we can get some
+food.
+
+_2nd and 3rd January, 1867._--Remain on account of a threatened
+_set-in_ rain. Bought a senzé _(Aulocaudatus Swindernianus)_, a
+rat-looking animal; but I was glad to get anything in the shape of
+meat.
+
+_4th January, 1867._--It is a _set-in_ rain. The boiling-point
+thermometer shows an altitude of 3565 feet above the sea. Barometer,
+3983 feet ditto. We get a little maëre here, and prefer it to being
+drenched and our goods spoiled. We have neither sugar nor salt, so
+there are no soluble goods; but cloth and gunpowder get damaged
+easily. It is hard fare and scanty; I feel always hungry, and am
+constantly dreaming of better food when I should be sleeping. Savoury
+viands of former times come vividly up before the imagination, even in
+my waking hours; this is rather odd as I am not a dreamer; indeed I
+scarcely ever dream but when I am going to be ill or actually so.[43]
+
+We are on the northern brim (or north-western rather) of the great
+Loangwa Valley we lately crossed: the rain coming from the east
+strikes it, and is deposited both above and below, while much of the
+valley itself is not yet well wetted. Here all the grasses have run up
+to seed, and yet they are not more than two feet or so in the
+seed-stalks. The pasturage is very fine. The people employ these
+continuous or _set-in_ rains for hunting the elephant, which gets
+bogged, and sinks in from fifteen to eighteen inches in soft mud,
+then even he, the strong one, feels it difficult to escape.[44]
+
+_5th January, 1867._--Still storm-stayed. We shall be off as soon as
+we get a fair day and these heavy rains cease.
+
+_6th January, 1867._--After service two men came and said that they
+were going to Lobemba, and would guide us to Motuna's village; another
+came a day or two ago, but he had such a villainous look we all shrank
+from him. These men's faces pleased us, but they did not turn out all
+we expected, for they guided us away westwards without a path: it was
+a drizzling rain, and this made us averse to striking off in the
+forest without them. No inhabitants now except at wide intervals, and
+no animals either. In the afternoon we came to a deep ravine full of
+gigantic timber trees and bamboos, with the Mavoché River at the
+bottom. The dampness had caused the growth of lichens all over the
+trees, and the steep descent was so slippery that two boys fell, and
+he who carried the chronometers, twice: this was a misfortune, as it
+altered the rates, as was seen by the first comparison of them
+together in the evening. No food at Motuna's village, yet the headman
+tried to extort two fathoms of calico on the ground that he was owner
+of the country: we offered to go out of his village and make our own
+sheds on "God's land," that is, where it is uncultivated, rather than
+have any words about it: he then begged us to stay. A very high
+mountain called Chikokwé appeared W.S.W. from this village; the people
+who live on it are called Matumba; this part is named Lokumbi, but
+whatever the name, all the people are Babisa, the dependants of the
+Babemba, reduced by their own slaving habits to a miserable jungly
+state. They feed much on wild fruits, roots, and leaves; and yet are
+generally plump. They use a wooden hoe for sowing their maëre, it is
+a sort of V-shaped implement, made from a branch with another
+springing out of it, about an inch in diameter at the sharp point, and
+with it they claw the soil after scattering the seed; about a dozen
+young men were so employed in the usual small patches as we passed in
+the morning.
+
+The country now exhibits the extreme of leafiness and the undulations
+are masses of green leaves; as far as the eye can reach with
+distinctness it rests on a mantle of that hue, and beyond the scene
+becomes dark blue. Near at hand many gay flowers peep out. Here and
+there the scarlet martagón (_Lilium chalcedonicum_), bright blue or
+yellow gingers; red, orange, yellow, and pure white orchids; pale
+lobelias, &c.; but they do not mar the general greenness. As we
+ascended higher on the plateau, grasses, which have pink and reddish
+brown seed-vessels imparted distinct shades of their colours to the
+lawns, and were grateful to the eye. We turned aside early in our
+march to avoid being wetted by rains, and took shelter in some old
+Babisa sheds; these, when the party is a slaving one, are built so as
+to form a circle, with but one opening: a ridge pole, or rather a
+succession of ridge poles, form one long shed all round, with no
+partitions in the roof-shaped hut.
+
+On the _9th of January_ we ascended a hardened sandstone range. Two
+men who accompanied our guide called out every now and then to attract
+the attention of the honey-guide, but none appeared. A water-buck had
+been killed and eaten at one spot, the ground showing marks of a
+severe struggle, but no game was to be seen. Buffaloes and elephants
+come here at certain seasons; at present they have migrated elsewhere.
+The valleys are very beautiful: the oozes are covered with a species
+of short wiry grass, which gives the valleys the appearance of
+well-kept gentlemen's parks; but they are full of water to
+overflowing--immense sponges in fact;--and one has to watch carefully
+in crossing them to avoid plunging into deep water-holes, made by the
+feet of elephants or buffaloes. In the ooze generally the water comes
+half-way up the shoe, and we go plash, plash, plash, in the lawn-like
+glade. There are no people here now in these lovely wild valleys; but
+to-day we came to mounds made of old for planting grain, and slag from
+iron furnaces. The guide was rather offended because he did not get
+meat and meal, though he is accustomed to leaves at home, and we had
+none to give except by wanting ourselves: he found a mess without much
+labour in the forest. My stock of meal came to an end to-day, but
+Simon gave me some of his. It is not the unpleasantness of eating
+unpalatable food that teases one, but we are never satisfied; I could
+brace myself to dispose of a very unsavoury mess, and think no more
+about it; but this maëre engenders a craving which plagues day and
+night incessantly.
+
+_10th January, 1867._--We crossed the Muasi, flowing strongly to the
+east to the Loangwa River.
+
+In the afternoon an excessively heavy thunderstorm wetted us all to
+the skin before any shelter could be made. Two of our men wandered,
+and other two remained behind lost, as our track was washed out by the
+rains. The country is a succession of enormous waves, all covered with
+jungle, and no traces of paths; we were in a hollow, and our firing
+was not heard till this morning, when we ascended a height and were
+answered. I am thankful that up one was lost, for a man might wander a
+long time before reaching a village. Simon gave me a little more of
+his meal this morning, and went without himself: I took my belt up
+three holes to relieve hunger. We got some wretched wild fruit like
+that called "jambos" in India, and at midday reached the village of
+Chafunga. Famine here too, but some men had killed an elephant and
+came to sell the dried meat: it was high, and so were their prices;
+but we are obliged to give our best from this craving hunger.
+
+_12th January, 1867._--Sitting down this morning near a tree my head
+was just one yard off a good-sized cobra, coiled up in the sprouts at
+its root, but it was benumbed with cold: a very pretty little
+puff-adder lay in the path, also benumbed; it is seldom that any harm
+is done by these reptiles here, although it is different in India. We
+bought up all the food we could get; but it did not suffice for the
+marches we expect to make to get to the Chambezé, where food is said
+to be abundant, we were therefore again obliged to travel on Sunday.
+We had prayers before starting; but I always feel that I am not doing
+fight, it lessens the sense of obligation in the minds of my
+companions; but I have no choice. We went along a rivulet till it
+ended in a small lake, Mapampa or Chimbwé, about five miles long, and
+one and a half broad. It had hippopotami, and the poku fed on its
+banks.
+
+_15th January, 1867._--We had to cross the Chimbwé at its eastern end,
+where it is fully a mile wide. The guide refused to show another and
+narrower ford up the stream, which emptied into it from the east; and
+I, being the first to cross, neglected to give orders about the poor
+little dog, Chitané. The water was waist deep, the bottom soft peaty
+stuff with deep holes in it, and the northern side infested by
+leeches. The boys were--like myself--all too much engaged with
+preserving their balance to think of the spirited little beast, and he
+must have swam till he sunk. He was so useful in keeping all the
+country curs off our huts; none dare to approach and steal, and he
+never stole himself. He shared the staring of the people with his
+master, then in the march he took charge of the whole party, running
+to the front, and again to the rear, to see that all was right. He was
+becoming yellowish-red in colour; and, poor thing, perished in what
+the boys all call Chitané's water.
+
+_16th January, 1867._--March through the mountains, which are of
+beautiful white and pink dolomite, scantily covered with upland trees
+and vegetation. The rain, as usual, made us halt early, and wild
+fruits helped to induce us to stay.
+
+In one place we lighted on a party of people living on Masuko fruit,
+and making mats of the Shuaré[45] palm petioles. We have hard lines
+ourselves; nothing but a little maëre porridge and dampers. We roast a
+little grain, and boil it, to make believe it is coffee. The guide, a
+maundering fellow, turned because he was not fed better than at home,
+and because he knew that but for his obstinacy we should not have lost
+the dog. It is needless to repeat that it is all forest on the
+northern slopes of the mountains--open glade and miles of forest;
+ground at present all sloppy; oozes full and overflowing--feet
+constantly wet. Rivulets rush strongly with _clear_ water, though they
+are in flood: we can guess which are perennial and which mere torrents
+that dry up; they flow northwards and westwards to the Chambezé.
+
+_17th January, 1867._--Detained in an old Babisa slaving encampment by
+set-in rain till noon, then set off in the midst of it. Came to hills
+of dolomite, but all the rocks were covered with white lichens
+(ash-coloured). The path took us thence along a ridge, which separates
+the Lotiri, running westwards, and the Lobo, going northwards, and we
+came at length to the Lobo, travelling along its banks till we reached
+the village called Lisunga, which was about five yards broad, and very
+deep, in flood, with clear water, as indeed are all the rivulets now;
+they can only be crossed by felling a tree on the bant and letting it
+fall across. They do not abrade their banks--vegetation protects them.
+I observed that the brown ibis, a noisy bird, took care to restrain
+his loud, harsh voice when driven from the tree in which his nest was
+placed, and when about a quarter of a mile off, then commenced his
+loud "Ha-ha-ha!"
+
+_18th January, 1867._--The headman of Lisunga, Chaokila, took our
+present, and gave nothing in return. A deputy from Chitapangwa came
+afterwards and demanded a larger present, as he was the greater man,
+and said that if we gave him two fathoms of calico, he would order all
+the people to bring plenty of food, not here only, but all the way to
+the paramount chief of Lobemba, Chitapangwa. I proposed that he should
+begin by ordering Chaokila to give us some in return for our present.
+This led, as Chaokila told us, to the cloth being delivered to the
+deputy, and we saw that all the starvelings south of the Chambezé were
+poor dependants on the Babemba, or rather their slaves, who cultivate
+little, and then only in the rounded patches above mentioned, so as to
+prevent their conquerors from taking away more than a small share. The
+subjects are Babisa--a miserable lying lot of serfs. This tribe is
+engaged in the slave-trade, and the evil effects are seen in their
+depopulated country and utter distrust of every one.
+
+_19th January, 1867._--Raining most of the day. Worked out the
+longitude of the mountain-station said to be Mpini, but it will be
+better to name it Chitané's, as I could not get the name from our
+maundering guide; he probably did not know it. Lat, 11° 9' 2" S.;
+long. 32° 1' 30" E.
+
+    Altitude above sea (barometer)     5353 feet;
+    Altitude above sea (boiling-point) 5385 feet.
+                                       ----
+                                   Diff. 32.[46]
+
+Nothing but famine and famine prices, the people living on mushrooms
+and leaves. Of mushrooms we observed that they choose five or six
+kinds, and rejected ten sorts. One species becomes as large as the
+crown of a man's hat; it is pure white, with a blush of brown in the
+middle of the crown, and is very good roasted; it is named "Motenta;"
+another, Mofeta; 3rd, Boséfwé; 4th, Nakabausa; 5th, Chisimbé,
+lobulated, green outside, and pink and fleshy inside; as a relish to
+others: some experience must have been requisite to enable them to
+distinguish the good from the noxious, of which they reject ten sorts.
+
+We get some elephants' meat from the people, but high is no name for
+its condition. It is very bitter, but we used it as a relish to the
+maëre porridge: none of the animal is wasted; skin and all is cut up
+and sold, not one of us would touch it with the hand if we had aught
+else, for the gravy in which we dip our porridge is like an aqueous
+solution of aloes, but it prevents the heartburn, which maëre causes
+when taken alone. I take mushrooms boiled instead; but the meat is
+never refused when we can purchase it, as it seems to ease the feeling
+of fatigue which jungle-fruit and fare engenders. The appetite in this
+country is always very keen, and makes hunger worse to bear: the want
+of salt, probably, makes the gnawing sensation worse.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[We now come to a disaster which cannot be exaggerated in importance
+when we witness its after effects month by month on Dr. Livingstone.
+There can be little doubt that the severity of his subsequent
+illnesses mainly turned upon it, and it is hardly too much to believe
+that his constitution from this time was steadily sapped by the
+effects of fever-poison which he was powerless to counteract, owing to
+the want of quinine. In his allusion to Bishop Mackenzie's death, we
+have only a further confirmation of the one rule in all such cases
+which must be followed, or the traveller in Africa goes--not with his
+life in his hand, but in some luckless box, put in the charge of
+careless servants. Bishop Mackenzie had all his drugs destroyed by the
+upsetting of a canoe, in which was his case of medicines, and in a
+moment everything was soaked and spoilt.
+
+It cannot be too strongly urged on explorers that they should divide
+their more important medicines in such a way that a _total loss_ shall
+become well-nigh impossible. Three or four tin canisters containing
+some calomel, Dover's powder, colocynth, and, above all, a supply of
+quinine, can be distributed in different packages, and then, if a
+mishap occurs similar to that which Livingstone relates, the disaster
+is not beyond remedy.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_20th January, 1867._--A guide refused, so we marched without one. The
+two Waiyau, who joined us at Kandé's village, now deserted. They had
+been very faithful all the way, and took our part in every case.
+Knowing the language well, they were extremely useful, and no one
+thought that they would desert, for they were free men--their masters
+had been killed by the Mazitu--and this circumstance, and their
+uniform good conduct, made us trust them more than we should have done
+any others who had been slaves. But they left us in the forest, and
+heavy rain came on, which obliterated every vestige of their
+footsteps. To make the loss the more galling, they took what we could
+least spare--the medicine-box, which they would only throw away as
+soon as they came to examine their booty. One of these deserters
+exchanged his load that morning with a boy called Baraka, who had
+charge of the medicine-box, because he was so careful. This was done,
+because with the medicine-chest were packed five large cloths and all
+Baraka's clothing and beads, of which he was very careful. The Waiyau
+also offered to carry this burden a stage to help Baraka, while he
+gave his own load, in which there was no cloth, in exchange. The
+forest was so dense and high, there was no chance of getting a glimpse
+of the fugitives, who took all the dishes, a large box of powder, the
+flour we had purchased dearly to help us as far as the Chambezé, the
+tools, two guns, and a cartridge-pouch; but the medicine-chest was the
+sorest loss of all! I felt as if I had now received the sentence of
+death, like poor Bishop Mackenzie.
+
+All the other goods I had divided in case of loss or desertion, but
+had never dreamed of losing the precious quinine and other remedies;
+other losses and annoyances I felt as just parts of that undercurrent
+of vexations which is not wanting in even the smoothest life, and
+certainly not worthy of being moaned over in the experience of an
+explorer anxious to benefit a country and people--but this loss I feel
+most keenly. Everything of this kind happens by the permission of One
+who watches over us with most tender care; and this may turn out for
+the best by taking away a source of suspicion among more
+superstitious, charm-dreading people further north. I meant it as a
+source of benefit to my party and to the heathen.
+
+We returned to Lisunga, and got two men off to go back to Chafunga's
+village, and intercept the deserters if they went there; but it is
+likely that, having our supply of flour, they will give our route a
+wide berth and escape altogether. It is difficult to say from the
+heart, "Thy will be done;" but I shall try. These Waiyau had few
+advantages: sold into slavery in early life, they were in the worst
+possible school for learning to be honest and honourable, they behaved
+well for a long time; but, having had hard and scanty fare in Lobisa,
+wet and misery in passing through dripping forests, hungry nights and
+fatiguing days, their patience must have been worn out, and they had
+no sentiments of honour, or at least none so strong as we ought to
+have; they gave way to the temptation which their good conduct had led
+us to put in their way. Some we have come across in this journey
+seemed born essentially mean and base--a great misfortune to them and
+all who have to deal with them, but they cannot be so blamable as
+those who have no natural tendency to meanness, and whose education
+has taught them to abhor it. True; yet this loss of the medicine-box
+gnaws at the heart terribly.
+
+_21st and 22nd January, 1867._--Remained at Lisunga--raining nearly
+all day; and we bought all the maëre the chief would sell. We were now
+forced to go on and made for the next village to buy food. Want of
+food and rain are our chief difficulties now, more rain falls here on
+this northern slope of the upland than elsewhere; clouds come up from
+the north and pour down their treasures in heavy thunder-showers,
+which deluge the whole country south of the edge of the plateau: the
+rain-clouds come from the west chiefly.
+
+_23rd January, 1867._--A march of five and three-quarter hours brought
+us yesterday to a village, Chibanda's stockade, where "no food" was
+the case, as usual. We crossed a good-sized rivulet, the Mapampa
+(probably ten yards wide), dashing along to the east; all the rest of
+the way was in dark forest. I sent off the boys to the village of
+Muasi to buy food, if successful, to-morrow we march for the Chambezé,
+on the other side of which all the reports agree in the statement that
+there plenty of food is to be had. We all feel weak and easily tired,
+and an incessant hunger teases us, so it is no wonder if so large a
+space of this paper is occupied by stomach affairs. It has not been
+merely want of nice dishes, but real biting hunger and faintness.
+
+_24th January, 1867._--Four hours through unbroken, dark forest
+brought us to the Movushi, which here is a sluggish stream, winding
+through and filling a marshy valley a mile wide. It comes from
+south-east, and falls into the Chambezé, about 2' north of our
+encampment. The village of Moaba is on the east side of the marshy
+valley of the Movuhi, and very difficult to be approached, as the
+water is chin-deep in several spots. I decided to make sheds on the
+west side, and send over for food, which, thanks to the Providence
+which watches over us, we found at last in a good supply of maëre and
+some ground-nuts; but through, all this upland region the trees
+yielding bark-cloth, or _nyanda_, are so abundant, that the people
+are all well-clothed with it, and care but little for our cloth. Red
+and pink beads are in fashion, and fortunately we have red.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[We may here add a few particulars concerning beads, which form such
+an important item of currency all through Africa. With a few
+exceptions they are all manufactured in Venice. The greatest care must
+be exercised, or the traveller--ignorant of the prevailing fashion in
+the country he is about to explore--finds himself with an accumulation
+of beads of no more value than tokens would be if tendered in this
+country for coin of the realm.
+
+Thanks to the kindness of Messrs. Levin & Co., the bead merchants, of
+Bevis Marks, E.C., we have been able to get some idea of the more
+valuable beads, through a selection made by Susi and Chuma in their
+warehouse. The Waiyou prefer exceedingly small beads, the size of
+mustard-seed, and of various colours, but they must be opaque: amongst
+them dull white chalk varieties, called "Catchokolo," are valuable,
+besides black and pink, named, respectively, "Bububu" and
+"Sekundereché" = the "dregs of pombe." One red bead, of various sizes,
+which has a white centre, is always valuable in every part of Africa.
+It is called "Sami-sami" by the Suahélé, "Chitakaraka" by the Waiyou,
+"Mangazi," = "blood," by the Nyassa, and was found popular even
+amongst the Manyuema, under the name of "Maso-kantussi", "bird's
+eyes." Whilst speaking of this distant tribe, it is interesting to
+observe that one peculiar long bead, recognised as common in the
+Manyuema land, is only sent to the West Coast of Africa, and _never_
+to the East. On Chuma pointing to it as a sort found at the extreme
+limit explored by Livingstone, it was at once seen that he must have
+touched that part of Africa which begins to be within the reach of the
+traders in the Portuguese settlements. "Machua Kanga" = "guinea fowl's
+eyes," is another popular variety; and the "Moiompio" = "new heart,"
+a large pale blue bead, is a favourite amongst the Wabisa; but by far
+the most valuable of all is a small white oblong bead, which, when
+strung, looks like the joints of the cane root, from which it takes
+its name, "Salani" = cane. Susi says that 1 lb. weight of these beads
+would buy a tusk of ivory, at the south end of Tanganyika, so big that
+a strong man could not carry it more than two hours.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_25th January, 1867._--Remain and get our maëre ground into flour.
+Moaba has cattle, sheep, and goats. The other side of the Chambezé has
+everything in still greater abundance; so we may recover our lost
+flesh. There are buffaloes in this quarter, but we have not got a
+glimpse of any. If game was to be had, I should have hunted; but the
+hopo way of hunting prevails, and we pass miles of hedges by which
+many animals must have perished. In passing-through the forests it is
+surprising to see none but old footsteps of the game; but the hopo
+destruction accounts for its absence. When the hedges are burned, then
+the manured space is planted with pumpkins and calabashes.
+
+I observed at Chibanda's a few green mushrooms, which, on being
+peeled, showed a pink, fleshy inside; they are called "chisimba;" and
+only one or two are put into the mortar, in which the women pound the
+other kinds, to give relish, it was said, to the mass: I could not
+ascertain what properties chisimba had when taken alone; but mushroom
+diet, in our experience, is good only for producing dreams of the
+roast beef of bygone days. The saliva runs from the mouth in these
+dreams, and the pillow is wet with it in the mornings.
+
+These Babisa are full of suspicion; everything has to be paid for
+accordingly in advance, and we found that giving a present to a chief
+is only putting it in his power to cheat us out of a supper. They give
+nothing to each other for nothing, and if this is enlargement of mind
+produced by commerce, commend me to the untrading African!
+
+Fish now appear in the rivulets. Higher altitudes have only small
+things, not worth catching.
+
+An owl makes the woods resound by night and early morning with his
+cries, which consist of a loud, double-initial note, and then a
+succession of lower descending notes. Another new bird, or at least
+new to me, makes the forests ring.
+
+When the vultures see us making our sheds, they conclude that we have
+killed some animal; but after watching awhile, and seeing no meat,
+they depart. This is suggestive of what other things prove, that it is
+only by sight they are guided.[47]
+
+With respect to the native head-dresses the colouring-matter, "nkola,"
+which seems to be camwood, is placed as an ornament on the head, and
+some is put on the bark-cloth to give it a pleasant appearance. The
+tree, when cut, is burned to bring out the strong colour, and then,
+when it is developed, the wood is powdered.
+
+The gum-copal trees now pour out gum where wounded, and I have seen
+masses of it fallen on the ground.
+
+_26th January, 1867._--Went northwards along the Movushi, near to its
+confluence with Chambezé, and then took lodging in a deserted
+temporary village. In the evening I shot a poku, or tsébula,
+full-grown male. It measured from snout to insertion of tail, 5 feet
+3 inches; tail, 1 foot; height at withers, 3 feet; circumference of
+chest, 5 feet; face to insertion of horns, 9-1/2 inches; horns
+measured on curve, 16 inches. Twelve rings on horns, and one had a
+ridge behind, 1/2 inch broad, 1/2 inch high, and tapering up the horn;
+probably accidental. Colour: reddish-yellow, dark points in front of
+foot and on the ears, belly nearly white. The shell went through from
+behind the shoulder to the spleen, and burst on the other side, yet he
+ran 100 yards. I felt very thankful to the Giver of all good for this
+meat.
+
+_27th January, 1867._--A set-in rain all the morning, but having meat
+we were comfortable in the old huts. In changing my dress this morning
+I was frightened at my own emaciation.
+
+_28th January, 1867._--- We went five miles along the Movushi and the
+Chambezé to a crossing-place said to avoid three rivers on the other
+side, which require canoes just now, and have none. Our lat. 10° 34'
+S. The Chambezé was flooded with clear water, but the lines of bushy
+trees, which showed its real banks, were not more than forty yards
+apart, it showed its usual character of abundant animal life in its
+waters and on its banks, as it wended its way westwards. The canoe-man
+was excessively suspicious; when prepayment was acceded to, he asked a
+piece more, and although he was promised full payment as soon as we
+were all safely across he kept the last man on the south side as a
+hostage for this bit of calico: he then ran away. They must cheat each
+other sadly.
+
+Went northwards, wading across two miles of flooded flats on to which
+the _Clarias Capensis_, a species of siluris, comes to forage out of
+the river. We had the Likindazi, a sedgy stream, with hippopotami, on
+our right. Slept in forest without seeing anyone. Then next day we met
+with a party who had come from their village to look for us. We were
+now in Lobemba, but these villagers had nothing but hopes of plenty at
+Chitapangwa's. This village had half a mile of ooze and sludgy marsh
+in front of it, and a stockade as usual. We observed that the people
+had great fear of animals at night, and shut the gates carefully, of
+even temporary villages. When at Molemba (Chitapangwa's village)
+afterwards, two men were killed by a lion, and great fear of
+crocodiles was expressed by our canoe-man at the Chambezé, when one
+washed in the margin of that river. There was evidence of abundance of
+game, elephants, and buffaloes, but we saw none.
+
+_29th January, 1867._--When near our next stage end we were shown
+where lightning had struck; it ran down a gum-copal tree without
+damaging it, then ten yards horizontally, and dividing there into two
+streams it went up an anthill; the withered grass showed its course
+very plainly, and next day (31st), on the banks of the Mabula, we saw
+a dry tree which had been struck; large splinters had been riven off
+and thrown a distance of sixty yards in one direction and thirty yards
+in another: only a stump was left, and patches of withered grass where
+it had gone horizontally.
+
+_30th January, 1867._--Northwards through almost trackless dripping
+forests and across oozing bogs.
+
+_31st January, 1867._--Through forest, but gardens of larger size than
+in Lobisa now appear. A man offered a thick bar of copper for sale, a
+foot by three inches. The hard-leafed acacia and mohempi abound. The
+valleys, with the oozes, have a species of grass, having pink
+seed-stalks and yellow seeds: this is very pretty. At midday we came
+to the Lopiri, the rivulet which waters Chitapanga's stockade, and
+soon after found that his village has a triple stockade, the inner
+being defended also by a deep broad ditch and hedge of a solanaceous
+thorny shrub. It is about 200 yards broad and 500 long. The huts not
+planted very closely.
+
+The rivulets were all making for the Chambezé. They contain no fish,
+except very small ones--probably fry. On the other, or western side
+of the ridge, near which "Malemba" is situated, fish abound worth
+catching.
+
+[Illustration: Chitapangwa]
+
+Chitapangwa, or Motoka, as he is also called, sent to inquire if we
+wanted an audience. "We must take something in our hands the first
+time we came before so great a man." Being tired from marching, I
+replied, "Not till the evening," and sent notice at 5 P.M. of my
+coming. We passed through the inner stockade, and then on to an
+enormous hut, where sat Chitapangwa, with three drummers and ten or
+more men, with two rattles in their hands. The drummers beat
+furiously, and the rattlers kept time to the drums, two of them
+advancing and receding in a stooping posture, with rattles near the
+ground, as if doing the chief obeisance, but still keeping time with
+the others. I declined to sit on the ground, and an enormous tusk was
+brought for me. The chief saluted courteously. He has a fat jolly
+face, and legs loaded with brass and copper leglets. I mentioned our
+losses by the desertion of the Waiyau, but his power is merely
+nominal, and he could do nothing. After talking awhile he came along
+with us to a group of cows, and pointed out one. "That is yours," said
+he. The tusk on which I sat was sent after me too as being mine,
+because I had sat upon it. He put on my cloth as token of acceptance,
+and sent two large baskets of sorghum to the hut afterwards, and then
+sent for one of the boys to pump him after dark.
+
+[Illustration: Chitapangwa's Wives.]
+
+_1st February, 1867._--We found a small party of black Arab
+slave-traders here from Bagamoio on the coast, and as the chief had
+behaved handsomely as I thought, I went this morning and gave him one
+of our best cloths; but when we were about to kill the cow, a man
+interfered and pointed out a smaller one. I asked if this was by the
+orders of the chief. The chief said that the man had lied, but I
+declined to take any cow at all if he did not give it willingly.
+
+The slavers, the headman of whom was Magaru Mafupi, came and said that
+they were going off on the 2nd; (_2nd February, 1867_) but by payment
+I got them to remain a day, and was all day employed in writing
+despatches.
+
+_3rd February, 1867._--Magaru Mafupi left this morning with a packet
+of letters, for which he is to get Rs. 10 at Zanzibar.[48] They came
+by a much shorter route than we followed, in fact, nearly due west or
+south-west; but not a soul would tell us of this way of coming into
+the country when we were at Zanzibar. Bagamoio is only six hours north
+of Kurdary Harbour. It is possible that the people of Zanzibar did not
+know of it themselves, as this is the first time they have come so
+far. The route is full of villages and people who have plenty of
+goats, and very cheap. They number fifteen stations, or sultans, as
+they call the chiefs, and will be at Bagamoio in two months:--1.
+Chasa; 2. Lombé; 3. Ucheré; 4. Nyamiro; 5. Zonda; 6. Zambi; 7. Lioti;
+8. Méreré; 9. Kirangabana; 10. Nkongozi; 11. Sombogo; 12. Suré; 13.
+Lomolasenga; 14. Kapass; 15, Chanzé. They are then in the country
+adjacent to Bagamoio. Some of these places are two or three days apart
+from each other.
+
+They came to three large rivers: 1. Wembo; 2. Luaha; 3. Luvo; but I
+had not time to make further inquiries. They had one of Speke's
+companions to Tanganyika with them, named Janjé, or Janja, who could
+imitate a trumpet by blowing into the palm of his hand. I ordered
+another supply of cloth and beads, and I sent for a small quantity of
+coffee, sugar, candles, French preserved meats, a cheese in tin, six
+bottles of port-wine, quinine, calomel, and resin of jalap, to be sent
+to Ujiji.
+
+I proposed to go a little way east with this route to buy goats, but
+Chitapangwa got very angry, saying, I came only to show my things, and
+would buy nothing: he then altered his tone, and requested me to take
+the cow first presented and eat it, and as we were all much in need I
+took it. We were to give only what we liked in addition; but this was
+a snare, and when I gave two more cloths he sent them back, and
+demanded a blanket. The boys alone have blankets; so I told him these
+were not slaves, and I could not take from them what I had once given.
+Though it is disagreeable to be thus victimized, it is the first time
+we have tasted fat for six weeks and more.
+
+_6th February, 1867._--Chitapangwa came with his wife to see the
+instruments which I explained to them as well as I could, and the
+books, as well as the Book of Books, and to my statements he made
+intelligent remarks. The boys are sorely afraid of him. When Abraham
+does not like to say what I state, he says to me "I don't know the
+proper word;" but when I speak without him, he soon finds them. He and
+Simon thought that talking in a cringing manner was the way to win him
+over, so I let them try it with a man he sent to communicate with us,
+and the result was this fellow wanted to open their bundles, pulled
+them about, and kept them awake most of the night. Abraham came at
+night: "Sir, what shall I do? they won't let me sleep." "You have had
+your own way," I replied, "and must abide by it." He brought them over
+to me in the morning, but I soon dismissed both him and them.
+
+_7th February, 1867._--I sent to the chief either to come to me or say
+Avhen I should come to him and talk; the answer I got was that he
+would come when shaved, but he afterwards sent a man to hear what I
+had to advance--this I declined, and when the rain ceased I went
+myself.
+
+On coming into his hut I stated that I had given him four times the
+value of his cow, but if he thought otherwise, let us take the four
+cloths to his brother Moamba, and if he said that I had not given
+enough, I would buy a cow and send it back. This he did not relish at
+all. "Oh, great Englishman! why should we refer a dispute to an
+inferior. I am the great chief of all this country. Ingleze mokolu,
+you are sorry that you have to give so much for the ox you have eaten.
+You would not take a smaller, and therefore I gratified your heart by
+giving the larger; and why should not you gratify my heart by giving
+cloth sufficient to cover me, and please me?"
+
+I said that my cloths would cover him, and his biggest wife too all
+over, he laughed at this, but still held out; and as we have meat, and
+he sent maize and calabashes, I went away. He turns round now, and
+puts the blame of greediness on me. I cannot enter into his ideas, or
+see his point of view; cannot, in fact, enter into his ignorance, his
+prejudices, or delusions, so it is impossible to pronounce a true
+judgment. One who has no humour cannot understand one who has: this is
+an equivalent case.
+
+Rain and clouds so constantly, I could not get our latitude till last
+night, 10° 14' 6" S. On 8th got lunars. Long. 31° 46' 45" E. Altitude
+above sea, 4700 feet, by boiling-point and barometer.
+
+_8th February, 1867._--The chief demands one of my boxes and a
+blanket; I explain that one day's rain would spoil the contents, and
+the boys who have blankets, not being slaves, I cannot take from them
+what I have given. I am told that he declares that he will take us
+back to the Loangwa; make war and involve us in it, deprive us of
+food, &c.: this succeeds in terrifying the boys. He thinks that we
+have some self-interest to secure in passing through the country, and
+therefore he has a right to a share in the gain. When told it was for
+a public benefit, he pulled down the underlid of the right eye.[49] He
+believes we shall profit by our journey, though he knows not in what
+way.
+
+It is possibly only a coincidence, but no sooner do we meet with one
+who accompanied Speke and Burton to Tanganyika, than the system of
+mulcting commences. I have no doubt but that Janjé told this man how
+his former employers paid down whatever was demanded of them.
+
+_10th February, 1867._--I had service in the open air, many looking
+on, and spoke afterwards to the chief, but he believes nothing save
+what Speke and Burton's man has told him. He gave us a present of corn
+and ground-nuts, and says he did not order the people not to sell
+grain to us. We must stop and eat green maize. He came after evening
+service, and I explained a little to him, and showed him woodcuts in
+the 'Bible Dictionary,' which he readily understood.
+
+_11th February, 1867._--The chief sent us a basket of hippopotamus
+flesh from the Chambezé, and a large one of green maize. He says the
+three cloths I offered are still mine: all he wants is a box and
+blanket; if not a blanket, a box must be given, a tin one. He keeps
+out of my way, by going to the gardens every morning. He is
+good-natured, and our intercourse is a laughing one; but the boys
+betray their terrors in their tone of voice, and render my words
+powerless.
+
+The black and white, and the brownish-grey water wagtails are
+remarkably tame. They come about the huts and even into them, and no
+one ever disturbs them. They build their nests about the huts. In the
+Bechuana country, a fine is imposed on any man whose boys kill one,
+but why, no one can tell me. The boys with me aver that they are not
+killed, because the meat is not eaten! or because they are so tame!!
+
+_13th February, 1867._--I gave one of the boxes at last, Chitapangwa
+offering a heavy Arab wooden one to preserve our things, which I
+declined to take, as I parted with our own partly to lighten a load.
+Abraham unwittingly told me that he had not given me the chiefs
+statement in full when he pressed me to take his cow. It was, "Take
+and eat the one you like, and give me a blanket." Abraham said "He has
+no blanket." Then he said to me, "Take it and eat it, and give him any
+pretty thing you like." I was thus led to mistake the chief, and he,
+believing that he had said explicitly he wanted a blanket for it,
+naturally held out. It is difficult to get these lads to say what one
+wants uttered: either with enormous self-conceit, they give different,
+and, as they think, better statements, suppress them altogether, or
+return false answers: this is the great and crowning difficulty of my
+intercourse.
+
+I got ready to go, but the chief was very angry, and came with all his
+force, exclaiming that I wanted to leave against his will and power,
+though he wished to adjust matters, and send me away nicely. He does
+not believe that we have no blankets. It is hard to be kept waiting
+here, but all may be for the best: it has always turned out so, and I
+trust in Him on whom I can cast all my cares. The Lord look on this
+and help me. Though I have these nine boys, I feel quite alone.
+
+I gave the chief some seeds, peas, and beans, for which he seemed
+thankful, and returned little presents of food and beer frequently.
+The beer of maëre is stuffed full of the growing grain as it begins to
+sprout, it is as thick as porridge, very strong and bitter, and goes
+to the head, requiring a strong digestion to overcome it.
+
+_February, 1867._--I showed the chief one of the boys' blankets,
+which he is willing to part with for two of our cloths, each of which
+is larger than it, but he declines to receive it, because we have new
+ones. I invited him, since he disbelieved my assertions, to look in
+our bales, and if he saw none, to pay us a fine for the insult: he
+consented in a laughing way to give us an ox. All our personal
+intercourse has been of the good-natured sort. It is the
+communications to the boys, by three men who are our protectors, or
+rather spies, that is disagreeable; I won't let them bring those
+fellows near me.
+
+_10th February, 1867._--He came early in the morning, and I showed
+that I had no blanket, and he took the old one, and said that the
+affair was ended. A long misunderstanding would have been avoided, had
+Abraham told me fully what the chief said at first.
+
+_16th February, 1867._--The chief offered me a cow for ŕ piece of red
+serge, and after a deal of talk and Chitapangwa swearing that no
+demand would be made after the bargain was concluded, I gave the
+serge, a cloth, and a few beads for a good fat cow. The serge was two
+fathoms, a portion of that which Miss Coutts gave me when leaving
+England in 1858.
+
+The chief is not so bad, as the boys are so cowardly. They assume a
+chirping, piping tone of voice in speaking to him, and do not say what
+at last has to be said, because in their cringing souls they believe
+they know what should be said better than I do. It does not strike
+them in the least that I have grown grey amongst these people; and it
+is immense conceit in mere boys to equal themselves to me. The
+difficulty is greater, because when I do ask their opinions I only
+receive the reply, "It is as you please, sir." Very likely some men of
+character may arise and lead them; but such as I have would do little
+to civilise.
+
+_17th February, 1867._--Too ill with rheumatic-fever to have service;
+this is the first attack of it I ever had--and no medicine! but I
+trust in the Lord, who healeth His people.
+
+_18th February, 1867._--This cow we divided at once. The last one we
+cooked, and divided a full, hearty meal to all every evening.
+
+The boom--booming of water dashing against or over the rocks is heard
+at a good distance from most of the burns in this upland region; hence
+it is never quite still.
+
+The rocks here are argillaceous schist, red and white. _(Keel,
+Scotticé.)_
+
+_19th February, 1867._--Chitapangwa begged me to stay another day,
+that one of the boys might mend his blanket; it has been worn every
+night since April, and I, being weak and giddy, consented. A glorious
+day of bright sunlight after a night's rain. We scarcely ever have a
+twenty-four hours without rain, and never half that period without
+thunder.
+
+The camwood (?) is here called molombwa, and grows very abundantly.
+The people take the bark, boil, and grind it fine: it is then a
+splendid blood-red, and they use it extensively as an ornament,
+sprinkling it on the bark-cloth, or smearing it on the head. It is in
+large balls, and is now called mkola. The tree has pinnated, alternate
+lanceolate, leaves, and attains a height of 40 or 50 feet, with a
+diameter of 15 or 18 inches finely and closely veined above, more
+widely beneath.
+
+I am informed by Abraham that the Nyumbo (Numbo or Mumbo) is easily
+propagated by cuttings, or by cuttings of the roots. A bunch of the
+stalks is preserved in the soil for planting next year, and small
+pieces are cut off, and take root easily; it has a pea-shaped flower,
+but we never saw the seed. It is very much better here than I have
+seen it elsewhere; and James says that in his country it is quite
+white and better still; what I have seen is of a greenish tinge after
+it is boiled.
+
+[Amongst the articles brought to the coast the men took care not to
+lose a number of seeds which they found in Dr. Livingstone's boxes
+after his death. These have been placed in the hands of the
+authorities at Kew, and we may hope that in some instances they have
+maintained vitality.
+
+It is a great pity that there is such a lack of enterprise in the
+various European settlements on the East Coast of Africa. Were it
+otherwise a large trade in valuable woods and other products would
+assuredly spring up. Ebony and lignum vitae abound; Dr. Livingstone
+used hardly any other fuel when he navigated the _Pioneer_, and no
+wood was found to make such "good steam." India-rubber may be had for
+the collecting, and we see that even the natives know some of the
+dye-woods, besides which the palm-oil tree is found, indigo is a weed
+everywhere, and coffee is indigenous.]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[36] In coming to cross roads it is the custom of the leader to "mark"
+all side paths and wrong turnings by making a scratch across them with
+his spear, or by breaking a branch and laying it across: in this way
+those who follow are able to avoid straying off the proper road.--ED.
+
+[37] Heleotragus Vardonii.
+
+[38] The tamarind does the same thing in the heat of the day.
+
+[39] A species of kingfisher, which stands flapping its wings and
+attempting to sing in a ridiculous manner. It never was better
+described than by one observer who, after watching it through its
+performance, said it was "a toy-shoppy bird."--ED.
+
+[40] Not the great chief near Lake Moero of the same name.
+
+[41] This extraordinary bird flies from tree to tree in front of the
+hunter, chirrupping loudly, and will not be content till he arrives at
+the spot where the bees'-nest is; it then waits quietly till the honey
+is taken, and feeds on the broken morsels of comb which fall to its
+share.
+
+[42] Eleusine Coracana.
+
+[43] It may not be altogether without interest to state that
+Livingstone could fall asleep when he wished at the very shortest
+notice. A mat, and a shady tree under which to spread it, would at any
+time afford him a refreshing sleep, and this faculty no doubt
+contributed much to his great powers of endurance.--ED.
+
+[44] When the elephant becomes confused by the yelping pack of dogs
+with which he is surrounded, the hunter stealthily approaches behind,
+and with one blow of a sharp axe hamstrings the huge beast.--ED.
+
+[45] Raphia.
+
+[46] Top of mountain (barometer) 6338 feat.
+
+[47] The experience of all African sportsmen tends towards the same
+conclusion. Vultures probably have their beats high overhead in the
+sky, too far to be seen by the eye. From this altitude they can watch
+a vast tract of country, and whenever the disturbed movements of game
+are observed they draw together, and for the first time are seen
+wheeling, about at a great height over the spot. So soon as an animal
+is killed, every tree is filled with them, but the hunter has only to
+cover the meat with boughs or reeds and the vultures are entirely at a
+loss--hidden, from view it is hidden altogether: the idea that they
+are attracted by their keen sense of smell is altogether
+erroneous,--ED.
+
+[48] These letters reached England safely.
+
+[49] It seems almost too ridiculous to believe that we have here the
+exact equivalent of the schoolboy's demonstrative "Do you see any
+green in my eye?" nevertheless it looks wonderfully like it!--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Chitapangwa's parting oath. Course laid for Lake Tanganyika.
+    Moamba's village. Another watershed. The Babemba tribe. Ill with
+    fever. Threatening attitude of Chibué's people. Continued
+    illness. Reaches cliffs overhanging Lake Liemba. Extreme beauty
+    of the scene. Dangerous fit of insensibility. Leaves the Lake.
+    Pernambuco cotton. Rumours of war between Arabs and Nsama.
+    Reaches Chitimba's village. Presents Sultan's letter to
+    principal Arab Harnees. The war in Itawa. Geography of the
+    Arabs. Ivory traders and slave-dealers. Appeal to the Koran.
+    Gleans intelligence of the Wasongo to the eastward, and their
+    chief, Meréré. Harnees sets out against Nsama. Tedious sojourn.
+    Departure for Ponda. Native cupping.
+
+
+_20th February, 1867._--I told the chief before starting that my heart
+was sore, because he was not sending me away so cordially as I liked.
+He at once ordered men to start with us, and gave me a brass knife
+with ivory sheath, which he had long worn, as a memorial. He explained
+that we ought to go north as, if we made easting, we should ultimately
+be obliged to turn west, and all our cloth would be expended ere we
+reached the Lake Tanganyika; he took a piece of clay off the ground
+and rubbed it on his tongue as an oath that what he said was true, and
+came along with us to see that all was right; and so we parted.
+
+We soon ascended the plateau, which encloses with its edge the village
+and stream of Molemba. Wild pigs are abundant, and there are marks of
+former cultivation. A short march brought us to an ooze, surrounded by
+hedges, game-traps, and pitfalls, where, as we are stiff and weak, we
+spend the night. Rocks abound of the same dolomite kind as on the
+ridge further south, between the Loangwa and Chambezé, covered, like
+them, with lichens, orchids, euphorbias, and upland vegetation,
+hard-leaved acacias, rhododendrons, masukos. The gum-copal tree, when
+perforated by a grub, exudes from branches no thicker than one's arm,
+masses of soft, gluey-looking gum, brownish yellow, and light grey, as
+much as would fill a soup-plate. It seems to yield this gum only in
+the rainy season, and now all the trees are full of sap and gum.
+
+_21st February, 1867._--A night with loud and near thunder, and much
+heavy rain, which came through the boys' sheds. Roads all plashy or
+running with water, oozes full, and rivulets overflowing; rocks of
+dolomite jutting out here and there. I noticed growing here a
+spikenard-looking shrub, six feet high, and a foot in diameter. The
+path led us west against my will. I found one going north; but the
+boys pretended that they did not see my mark, and went west, evidently
+afraid of incurring Moamba's displeasure by passing him. I found them
+in an old hut, and made the best of it by saying nothing. They said
+that they had wandered; that was, they had never left the west-going
+path.
+
+_22nd February, 1867._--We came to a perennial rivulet running north,
+the Merungu. Here we met Moamba's people, but declined going to his
+village, as huts are disagreeable; they often have vermin, and one is
+exposed to the gaze of a crowd through a very small doorway. The
+people in their curiosity often make the place dark, and the impudent
+ones offer characteristic remarks, then raise a laugh, and run away.
+
+We encamped on the Meningu's right bank in forest, sending word to
+Moamba that we meant to do so. He sent a deputation, first of all his
+young men, to bring us; then old men, and lastly he came himself with
+about sixty followers. I explained that I had become sick by living
+in a little hut at Molemba; that I was better in the open air; that
+huts contained vermin; and that I did not mean to remain any while
+here, but go on our way. He pressed us to come to his village, and
+gave us a goat and kid, with a huge calabashful of beer. I promised to
+go over and visit him next day; and went accordingly.
+
+_23rd February, 1867._--Moamba's village was a mile off, and on the
+left bank of the Merengé, a larger stream than the Merungu flowing
+north and having its banks and oozes covered with fine, tall,
+straight, evergreen trees. The village is surrounded with a stockade,
+and a dry ditch some fifteen or twenty feet wide, and as many deep. I
+had a long talk with Moamba, a big, stout, public-house-looking
+person, with a slight outward cast in his left eye, but intelligent
+and hearty. I presented him with a cloth; and he gave me as much maëre
+meal as a man could carry, with a large basket of ground-nuts. He
+wished us to come to the Merengé, if not into his village, that he
+might see and talk with me: I also showed him some pictures in Smith's
+'Bible Dictionary,' which he readily understood, and I spoke to him
+about the Bible. He asked me "to come next day and tell him about
+prayer to God," this was a natural desire after being told that we
+prayed.
+
+He was very anxious to know why we were going to Tanganyika; for what
+we came; what we should buy there; and if I had any relations there.
+He then showed me some fine large tusks, eight feet six in length.
+"What do you wish to buy, if not slaves or ivory?" I replied, that the
+only thing I had seen worth buying was a fine fat chief like him, as a
+specimen, and a woman feeding him, as he had, with beer. He was
+tickled at this; and said that when we reached our country, I must put
+fine clothes on him. This led us to speak of our climate, and the
+production of wool.
+
+_24th February, 1867._--I went over after service, but late, as the
+rain threatened to be heavy. A case was in process of hearing, and one
+old man spoke an hour on end, the chief listening all the while with
+the gravity of a judge. He then delivered his decision in about five
+minutes, the successful litigant going off lullilooing. Each person,
+before addressing him, turns his back to him and lies down on the
+ground, clapping the hands: this is the common mode of salutation.
+Another form here in Lobemba is to rattle the arrows or an arrow on
+the bow, which all carry. We had a little talk with the chief; but it
+was late before the cause was heard through. He asked us to come and
+spend one night near him on the Merenga, and then go on, so we came
+over in the morning to the vicinity of his village. A great deal of
+copper-wire is here made, the wire-drawers using for one part of the
+process a seven-inch cable. They make very fine wire, and it is used
+chiefly as leglets and anklets; the chief's wives being laden with
+them, and obliged to walk in a stately style from the weight: the
+copper comes from Katanga.
+
+_26th February, 1867._--The chief wishes to buy a cloth with two
+goats, but his men do not bring them up quickly. Simon, one of the
+boys, is ill of fever, and this induces me to remain, though moving
+from one place to another is the only remedy we have in our power.
+
+With the chief's men we did not get on well, but with himself all was
+easy. His men demanded prepayment for canoes to cross the river
+Loömbé; but in the way that he put it, the request was not
+unreasonable, as he gave a man to smooth our way, and get canoes, or
+whatever else was needed, all the way to Chibué's. I gave a cloth when
+he put it thus, and he presented a goat, a spear ornamented with
+copper-wire, abundance of meal, and beer, and numbo; so we parted good
+friends, as his presents were worth the cloth.
+
+Holding a north-westerly course we met with the Chikosho flowing
+west, and thence came to the Likombé by a high ridge called Losauswa,
+which runs a long way westward. It is probably a watershed between
+streams going to the Chambezé and those that go to the northern
+rivers.
+
+We have the Locopa, Loömbé, Nikéléngé, then Lofubu or Lovu; the last
+goes north into Liembe, but accounts are very confused. The Chambezé
+rises in the Mambivé country, which is north-east of Moamba, but near
+to it.
+
+The forest through which we passed was dense, but scrubby; trees
+unhealthy and no drainage except through oozes. On the keel which
+forms a clay soil the rain runs off, and the trees attain a large
+size. The roads are not soured by the slow process of the ooze
+drainage. At present all the slopes having loamy or sandy soil are
+oozes, and full to overflowing; a long time is required for them to
+discharge their contents. The country generally may be called one
+covered with forest.
+
+_6th March, 1867._--We came after a short march to a village on the
+Molilanga, flowing east into the Loömbé, here we meet with bananas for
+the first time, called, as in Lunda, nkondé. A few trophies from
+Mazitu are hung up: Chitapangwa had twenty-four skulls ornamenting his
+stockade. The Babemba are decidedly more warlike than any of the
+tribes south of them: their villages are stockaded, and have deep dry
+ditches round them, so it is likely that Mochimbé will be effectually
+checked, and forced to turn his energies to something else than to
+marauding.
+
+Our man from Moamba here refused to go further, and we were put on the
+wrong track by the headman wading through three marshes, each at least
+half a mile broad. The people of the first village we came to shut
+their gates on us, then came running after us; but we declined to
+enter their village: it is a way of showing their independence. We
+made our sheds on a height in spite of their protests. They said that
+the gates were shut by the boys; but when I pointed out the boy who
+had done it, he said that he had been ordered to do it by the chief.
+If we had gone in now we should have been looked on as having come
+under considerable obligations.
+
+_8th March, 1867._--We went on to a village on the Loömbé, where the
+people showed an opposite disposition, for not a soul was in it--all
+were out at their farms. When the good wife of the place came she gave
+us all huts, which saved us from a pelting shower. The boys herding
+the goats did not stir as we passed down the sides of the lovely
+valley. The Loömbé looks a sluggish stream from a distance. The
+herdsman said we were welcome, and he would show the crossing next
+day, he also cooked some food for us.
+
+Guided by our host, we went along the Loömbé westwards till we reached
+the bridge (rather a rickety affair), which, when the water is low may
+be used as a weir. The Loömbé main stream is 66 feet wide, 6 feet
+deep, with at least 200 feet of flood beyond it. The water was knee
+deep on the bridge, but clear; the flooded part beyond was waist deep
+and the water flowing fast.
+
+All the people are now transplanting tobacco from the spaces under the
+eaves of the huts into the fields. It seems unable to bear the greater
+heat of summer: they plant also a kind of liranda, proper for the cold
+weather. We thought that we were conferring a boon in giving peas, but
+we found them generally propagated all over the country already, and
+in the cold time too. We went along the Diola River to an old hut and
+made a fire; thence across country to another river, called Loendawé,
+6 feet wide, and 9 feet deep.
+
+_10th March, 1867._--I have been ill of fever ever since we left
+Moamba's; every step I take jars in the chest, and I am very weak; I
+can scarcely keep up the march, though formerly I was always first,
+and had to hold in my pace not to leave the people altogether. I have
+a constant singing in the ears, and can scarcely hear the loud tick
+of the chronometers. The appetite is good, but we have no proper food,
+chiefly maëre meal or beans, or mapemba or ground-nuts, rarely a fowl.
+
+The country is full of hopo-hedges, but the animals are harassed, and
+we never see them.
+
+_11th March, 1867._.--Detained by a set-in rain. Marks on masses of
+dolomite elicited the information that a party of Londa smiths came
+once to this smelting ground and erected their works here. We saw an
+old iron furnace, and masses of haematite, which seems to have been
+the ore universally used.
+
+_12th March, 1867._--Rain held us back for some time, but we soon
+reached Chibué, a stockaded village. Like them all, it is situated by
+a stream, with a dense clump of trees on the waterside of some species
+of mangrove. They attain large size, have soft wood, and succulent
+leaves; the roots intertwine in the mud, and one has to watch that he
+does not step where no roots exist, otherwise he sinks up to the
+thigh. In a village the people feel that we are on their property, and
+crowd upon us inconveniently; but outside, where we usually erect our
+sheds, no such feeling exists, we are each on a level, and they don't
+take liberties.
+
+The Balungu are marked by three or four little knobs on the temples,
+and the lobes of the ears are distended by a piece of wood, which is
+ornamented with beads; bands of beads go across the forehead and hold
+up the hair.
+
+Chibué's village is at the source of the Lokwéna, which goes N. and
+N.E.; a long range of low hills is on our N.E., which are the Mambwé,
+or part of them. The Chambezé rises in them, but further south. Here
+the Lokwéna, round whose source we came on starting this morning to
+avoid wet feet, and all others north and west of this, go to the Lofu
+or Lobu, and into Liemba Lake. Those from the hills on our right go
+east into the Loanzu and so into the Lake.
+
+_15th March, 1867._--We now are making for Kasonso, the chief of the
+Lake, and a very large country all around it, passing the Lochenjé,
+five yards wide, and knee deep, then to the Chańumba. All flow very
+rapidly just now and are flooded with clean water. Everyone carries an
+axe, as if constantly warring with the forest. My long-continued fever
+ill disposes me to enjoy the beautiful landscape. We are evidently on
+the ridge, but people have not a clear conception of where the rivers
+run.
+
+_19th March, 1867._--A party of young men came out of the village near
+which we had encamped to force us to pay something for not going into
+their village. "The son of a great chief ought to be acknowledged,"
+&c. They had their bows and arrows with them, and all ready for
+action. I told them we had remained near them because they said we
+could not reach Kasonso that day. Their headman had given us nothing.
+After talking a while, and threatening to do a deal to-morrow, they
+left, and through an Almighty Providence nothing was attempted. We
+moved on N.W. in forest, with long green tree-covered slopes on our
+right, and came to a village of Kasonso in a very lovely valley. Great
+green valleys were now scooped out, and many, as the Kakanza, run into
+the Lovu.
+
+_20th March, 1867._--The same features of country prevailed, indeed it
+was impossible to count the streams flowing N.W. We found Kasonso
+situated at the confluence of two streams; he shook hands a long
+while, and seems a frank sort of man. A shower of rain set the driver
+ants on the move, and about two hours after we had turned in we were
+overwhelmed by them. They are called Kalandu or Nkalanda.
+
+To describe this attack is utterly impossible. I wakened covered with
+them: my hair was full of them. One by one they cut into the flesh,
+and the more they are disturbed, the more vicious are their bites;
+they become quite insolent. I went outside the hut, but there they
+swarmed everywhere; they covered the legs, biting furiously; it is
+only when they are tired that they leave off.
+
+One good trait of the Balungu up here is, they retire when they see
+food brought to anyone, neither Babisa nor Makoa had this sense of
+delicacy: the Babemba are equally polite.
+
+We have descended considerably into the broad valley of the Lake, and
+it feels warmer than on the heights. Cloth here is more valuable,
+inasmuch as bark-cloth is scarce. The skins of goats and wild animals
+are used, and the kilt is very diminutive among the women.
+
+_22nd March, 1867._--Cross Loéla, thirty feet wide and one deep, and
+meet with tsetse fly, though we have seen none since we left
+Chitapangwa's. Kasonso gave us a grand reception, and we saw men
+present from Tanganyika; I saw cassava here, but not in plenty.
+
+_28th March, 1867._--Set-in rain and Chuma fell ill. There are cotton
+bushes of very large size here of the South American kind. After
+sleeping in various villages and crossing numerous streams, we came to
+Mombo's village, near the ridge overlooking the Lake.
+
+_31st March, and 1st April, 1867._--I was too ill to march through. I
+offered to go on the 1st, but Kasonso's son, who was with us,
+objected. We went up a low ridge of hills at its lowest part, and soon
+after passing the summit the blue water loomed through the trees. I
+was detained, but soon heard the boys firing their muskets on reaching
+the edge of the ridge, which allowed of an undisturbed view. This is
+the south-eastern end of Liemba, or, as it is sometimes called,
+Tanganyika.[50] We had to descend at least 2000 feet before we got to
+the level of the Lake. It seems about eighteen or twenty miles broad,
+and we could see about thirty miles up to the north. Four considerable
+rivers flow into the space before us. The nearly perpendicular ridge
+of about 2000 feet extends with breaks all around, and there,
+embosomed in tree-covered rocks, reposes the Lake peacefully in the
+huge cup-shaped cavity.
+
+I never saw anything so still and peaceful as it lies all the morning.
+About noon a gentle breeze springs up, and causes the waves to assume
+a bluish tinge. Several rocky islands rise in the eastern end, which
+are inhabited by fishermen, who capture abundance of fine large fish,
+of which they enumerate about twenty-four species. In the north it
+seems to narrow into a gateway, but the people are miserably deficient
+in geographical knowledge, and can tell us nothing about it. They
+suspect us, and we cannot get information, or indeed much of anything
+else. I feel deeply thankful at having got so far. I am excessively
+weak--cannot walk without tottering, and have constant singing in the
+head, but the Highest will lead me further.
+
+Lat. of the spot we touched at first, 2nd April, 1867. Lat. 8° 46' 54"
+S., long. 31° 57'; but I only worked out (and my head is out of order)
+one set of observations. Height above level of the sea over 2800 feet,
+by boiling-point thermometers and barometer. The people won't let me
+sound the Lake.
+
+After being a fortnight at this Lake it still appears one of
+surpassing loveliness. Its peacefulness is remarkable, though at times
+it is said to be lashed up by storms. It lies in a deep basin whose
+sides are nearly perpendicular, but covered well with trees; the rocks
+which appear are bright red argillaceous schist; the trees at present
+all green: down some of these rocks come beautiful cascades, and
+buffaloes, elephants, and antelopes wander and graze on the more level
+spots, while lions roar by night. The level place below is not two
+miles from the perpendicular. The village (Pambété), at which we
+first touched the Lake, is surrounded by palm-oil trees--not the
+stunted ones of Lake Nyassa, but the real West Coast palm-oil
+tree,[51] requiring two men to carry a bunch of the ripe fruit. In the
+morning and evening huge crocodiles may be observed quietly making
+their way to their feeding grounds; hippopotami snort by night and at
+early morning.
+
+After I had been a few days here I had a fit of insensibility, which
+shows the power of fever without medicine. I found myself floundering
+outside my hut and unable to get in; I tried to lift myself from my
+back by laying hold of two posts at the entrance, but when I got
+nearly upright I let them go, and fell back heavily on my head on a
+box. The boys had seen the wretched state I was in, and hung a blanket
+at the entrance of the hut, that no stranger might see my
+helplessness; some hours elapsed before I could recognize where I was.
+
+As for these Balungu, as they are called, they have a fear of us, they
+do not understand our objects, and they keep aloof. They promise
+everything and do nothing; but for my excessive weakness we should go
+on, but we wait for a recovery of strength.
+
+As people they are greatly reduced in numbers by the Mazitu, who
+carried off very large numbers of the women, boys, girls, and
+children. They train or like to see the young men arrayed as Mazitu,
+but it would be more profitable if they kept them to agriculture. They
+are all excessively polite. The clapping of hands on meeting is
+something excessive, and then the string of salutations that accompany
+it would please the most fastidious Frenchman. It implies real
+politeness, for in marching with them they always remove branches out
+of the path, and indicate stones or stumps in it carefully to a
+stranger, yet we cannot prevail on them to lend carriers to examine
+the Lake or to sell goats, of which, however, they have very few, and
+all on one island.
+
+The Lake discharges its water north-westward or rather
+nor-north-westwards. We observe weeds going in that direction, and as
+the Lonzua, the Kowé, the Kapata, the Luazé, the Kalambwé, flow into
+it near the east end, and the Lovu or Lofubu, or Lofu, from the
+south-west near the end it must find an exit for so much water. All
+these rivers rise in or near the Mambwé country, in lat. 10° S.,
+where, too, the Chambezé rises. Liemba is said to remain of about the
+same size as we go north-west, but this we shall see for ourselves.
+
+Elephants come all about us. One was breaking trees close by. I fired
+into his ear without effect: I am too weak to hold the gun steadily.
+
+_30th April, 1867._--We begin our return march from Liemba. Slept at a
+village on the Lake, and went on next day to Pambété, where we first
+touched it. I notice that here the people pound tobacco-leaves in a
+mortar after they have undergone partial fermentation by lying in the
+sun, then they put the mass in the sun to dry for use.
+
+The reason why no palm-oil trees grow further east than Pambété is
+said to be the stony soil there, and this seems a valid one, for it
+loves rich loamy meadows.
+
+_1st May, 1867._--We intended to go north-west to see whether this
+Lake narrows or not, for all assert that it maintains its breadth such
+as we see it beyond Pemba as far as they know it; but when about to
+start the headman and his wife came and protested so solemnly that by
+going N.W. we should walk into the hands of a party of Mazitu there,
+that we deferred our departure. It was not with a full persuasion of
+the truth of the statement that I consented, but we afterwards saw
+good evidence that it was true, and that we were saved from being
+plundered. These marauders have changed their tactics, for they
+demand so many people, and so many cloths, and then leave. They made
+it known that their next scene of mulcting would be Mombo's village,
+and there they took twelve people--four slaves, and many cloths, then
+went south to the hills they inhabit. A strict watch was kept on their
+movements by our headman and his men. They trust to fleeing into a
+thicket on the west of the village should the Mazitu come.
+
+I have been informed on good authority that Kasonso was on his way to
+us when news arrived that his young son had died. He had sent on beer
+and provisions for us, but the Mazitu intervening they were consumed.
+
+The Mazitu having left we departed and slept half-way up the ridge. I
+had another fit of insensibility last night: the muscles of the back
+lose all power,[52] and there is constant singing in the ears, and
+inability to do the simplest sum. Cross the Aeezé (which makes the
+waterfall) fifteen yards wide and knee deep. The streams like this are
+almost innumerable.
+
+Mombo's village. It is distressingly difficult to elicit accurate
+information about the Lake and rivers, because the people do not think
+accurately. Mombo declared that two Arabs came when we were below, and
+inquired for us, but he denied our presence, thinking thereby to save
+us trouble and harm.
+
+The cotton cultivated is of the Pernambuco species, and the bushes are
+seven or eight feet high. Much cloth was made in these parts before
+the Mazitu raids began, it was striped black and white, and many
+shawls are seen in the country yet. It is curious that this species of
+cotton should be found only in the middle of this country.
+
+In going westwards on the upland the country is level and covered
+with scraggy forest as usual, long lines of low hills or rather ridges
+of denudation run. N. and S. on our east. This is called Moami
+country, full of elephants, but few are killed. They do much damage,
+eating the sorghum in the gardens unmolested.
+
+_11th May, 1867._--A short march to-day brought us to a village on the
+same Moami, and to avoid a Sunday in the forest we remained. The
+elephants had come into the village and gone all about it, and to
+prevent their opening the corn safes the people had bedaubed them with
+elephant's droppings. When a cow would not give milk, save to its
+calf, a like device was used at Kolobeng; the cow's droppings were
+smeared on the teats, and the calf was too much disgusted to suck: the
+cow then ran till she was distressed by the milk fever and was willing
+to be relieved by the herdsman.
+
+_12th and 13th May, 1867._--News that the Arabs had been fighting with
+Nsama came, but this made us rather anxious to get northward along
+Liemba, and we made for Mokambola's village near the edge of the
+precipice which overhangs the Lake. Many Shuaré Raphia palms grow in
+the river which flows past it.
+
+As we began our descent we saw the Lofu coming from the west and
+entering Liemba. A projection of Liemba comes to meet it, and then it
+is said to go away to the north or north-west as far as my informants
+knew. Some pointed due north, others north-west, so probably its true
+course amounts to N.N.W. We came to a village about 2' W. of the
+confluence, whose headman was affable and generous. The village has a
+meadow some four miles wide on the land side, in which buffaloes
+disport themselves, but they are very wild, and hide in the gigantic
+grasses. Sorghum, ground-nuts, and voandzeia grow luxuriantly. The
+Lofu is a quarter of a mile wide, but higher up three hundred yards.
+The valley was always clouded over at night so I could not get an
+observation except early in the morning when the cold had dissipated
+the clouds.
+
+We remained here because two were lame, and all tired by the descent
+of upwards of 2000 feet, and the headman sent for fish for us. He
+dissuaded us strongly from attempting to go down the Liemba, as the
+son of Nsania (Kapoma) was killing all who came that way in revenge
+for what the Arabs had done to his father's people, and he might take
+us for Arabs. A Suaheli Arab came in the evening and partly confirmed
+the statements of the headman of Karambo; I resolved therefore to go
+back to Chitimba's in the south, where the chief portion of the Arabs
+are assembled, and hear from them more certainly.
+
+The last we heard of Liemba was that at a great way north-west, it is
+dammed up by rocks, and where it surmounts these there is a great
+waterfall. It does not, it is said, diminish in size so far, but by
+bearings protracted it is two miles wide.
+
+_18th May, 1867._--Return to Mokambola's village, and leave for
+Chitimba's. Baraka stopped behind at the village, and James ran away
+to him, leaving his bundle, containing three chronometers, in the
+path: I sent back for them, and James came up in the evening; he had
+no complaint, and no excuse to make. The two think it will be easy to
+return to their own country by begging, though they could not point it
+out to me when we were much nearer to where it is supposed to be.
+
+_19th May, 1867._--Where we were brought to a standstill was miserably
+cold (55°), so we had prayers and went on S. and S.W. to the village
+of Chisáka.
+
+_20th May, 1867._--Chitimba's village was near in the same direction;
+here we found a large party of Arabs, mostly black Suahelis. They
+occupied an important portion of the stockaded village, and when I
+came in, politely showed me to a shed where they are in the habit of
+meeting. After explaining whence I had come, I showed them the
+Sultan's letter. Harnees presented a goat, two fowls, and a quantity
+of flour. It was difficult to get to the bottom of the Nsama affair,
+but according to their version that chief sent an invitation to them,
+and when they arrived called for his people, who came in crowds--as he
+said to view the strangers. I suspect that the Arabs became afraid of
+the crowds and began to fire; several were killed on both sides, and
+Nsama fled, leaving his visitors in possession of the stockaded
+village and all it contained. Others say that there was a dispute
+about an elephant, and that Nsama's people were the aggressors. At any
+rate it is now all confusion; those who remain at Nsama's village help
+themselves to food in the surrounding villages and burn them, while
+Chitimba has sent for the party who are quartered here to come to him.
+An hour or two after we arrived a body of men came from Kasonso, with
+the intention of proceeding into the country of Nsama, and if possible
+catching Nsama, "he having broken public law by attacking people who
+brought merchandise into the country." This new expedition makes the
+Arabs resolve to go and do what they can to injure their enemy. It
+will just be a plundering foray--each catching what he can, whether
+animal or human, and retiring when it is no longer safe to plunder!
+
+This throws the barrier of a broad country between me and Lake "Moero"
+in the west, but I trust in Providence a way will be opened. I think
+now of going southwards and then westwards, thus making a long détour
+round the disturbed district.
+
+The name of the principal Arab is Hamees Wodim Tagh, the other is Syde
+bin Alie bin Mansure: they are connected with one of the most
+influential native mercantile houses in Zanzibar. Hamees has been
+particularly kind to me in presenting food, beads, cloth, and getting
+information. Thami bin Snaelim is the Arab to whom my goods are
+directed at Ujiji.
+
+_24th May, 1867._--At Chitimba's we are waiting to see what events
+turn up to throw light on our western route. Some of the Arabs and
+Kasonso's men went off to-day: they will bring information perhaps as
+to Nsama's haunts, and then we shall move south and thence west. Wrote
+to Sir Thomas Maclear, giving the position of Liemba and to Dr.
+Seward, in case other letters miscarry. The hot season is beginning
+now. This corresponds to July further south.
+
+Three goats were killed by a leopard close to the village in open day.
+
+_28th May, 1867._--Information came that Nsama begged pardon of the.
+Arabs, and would pay all that they had lost. He did not know of his
+people stealing from them: we shall hear in a day or two whether the
+matter is to be patched up or not. While some believe his statements,
+others say, "Nsama's words of peace are simply to gain time to make
+another stockade:" in the mean time Kasonso's people will ravage all
+his country on this eastern side.
+
+Hamees is very anxious that I should remain a few days longer, till
+Kasonso's son, Kampamba, comes with _certain_ information, and then he
+will see to our passing safely to Chiwéré's village from Kasonso's.
+All have confidence in this last-named chief as an upright man.
+
+_1st June, 1867._--Another party of marauders went off this morning to
+plunder Nsama's country to the west of the confluence of the Lofu as a
+punishment for a breach of public law. The men employed are not very
+willing to go, but when they taste the pleasure of plunder they will
+relish it more!
+
+The watershed begins to have a northern slope about Moamba's, lat. 10°
+10' S., but the streams are very tortuous, and the people have very
+confused ideas as to where they run. The Lokhopa, for instance, was
+asserted by all the men at Moamba's to flow into Lokholu, and then
+into a river going to Liemba, but a young wife of Moamba, who seemed
+very intelligent, maintained that Lokhopa and Lokholu went to the
+Chambezé; I therefore put it down thus. The streams which feed the
+Chambezé and the Liemba overlap each other, and it would require a
+more extensive survey than I can give to disentangle them.
+
+North of Moamba, on the Merengé, the slope begins to Liemba. The Lofu
+rises in Chibué's country, and with its tributaries we have long
+ridges of denudation, each some 500 or 600 feet high, and covered with
+green trees. The valleys of denudation enclosed by these hill ranges
+guide the streams towards Liemba or the four rivers which flow into
+it. The country gradually becomes lower, warmer, and tsetse and
+mosquitoes appear; so at last we come to the remarkable cup-shaped
+cavity in which Liemba reposes. Several streams fall down the nearly
+perpendicular cliffs, and form beautiful cascades. The lines of
+denudation are continued, one range rising behind another as far as
+the eye can reach to the north and east of Liemba, and probably the
+slope continues away down to Tanganyika. The watershed extends
+westwards to beyond Casembe, and the Luapula, or Chambezé, rises in
+the same parallels of latitude as does the Lofu and the Lonzna.
+
+The Arabs inform me that between this and the sea, about 200 miles
+distant, lies the country of the Wasango--called: Usango--a fair
+people, like Portuguese, and very friendly to strangers. The Wasango
+possess plenty of cattle: their chief is called Meréré.[53] They count
+this twenty-five days, while the distance thence to the sea at
+Bagamoio is one month and twenty-five days--say 440 miles. Uchéré is
+very far off northwards, but a man told me that he went to a
+salt-manufactory in that direction in eight days from Kasonso's.
+Meréré goes frequently on marauding expeditions for cattle, and is
+instigated thereto by his mother.
+
+What we understand by primeval forest is but seldom seen in the
+interior here, though the country cannot be described otherwise than
+as generally covered with interminable forests. Insects kill or dwarf
+some trees, and men maim others for the sake of the bark-cloth;
+elephants break down a great number, and it is only here and there
+that gigantic specimens are seen: they may be expected in shut-in
+valleys among mountains, but on the whole the trees are scraggy, and
+the varieties not great. The different sorts of birds which sing among
+the branches seem to me to exceed those of the Zambesi region, but I
+do not shoot them: the number of new notes I hear astonishes me.
+
+The country in which we now are is called by the Arabs and natives
+Ulungu, that farther north-west is named Marunga. Hamees is on
+friendly terms with the Mazitu (Watuta) in the east, who do not
+plunder. The chief sent a man to Kasonso lately, and he having
+received a present went away highly pleased.
+
+Hamees is certainly very anxious to secure my safety. Some men came
+from the N.E. to inquire about the disturbance here and they recommend
+that I should go with them, and then up the east side of the Lake to
+Ujiji; but that would ruin my plan of discovering Moero and afterwards
+following the watershed, so as to be certain that this is either the
+watershed of the Congo or Kile. He was not well pleased when I
+preferred to go south and then westwards, as it looks like rejecting
+his counsel; but he said if I waited till his people came, then we
+should be able to speak with more certainty.
+
+On inquiring if any large mountains exist in this country, I was told
+that Moufipa, or Fipa, opposite the lower end of the Lake, is
+largest--one can see Tanganyika from it. It probably gives rise to the
+Nkalambwé River and the Luazé.
+
+There is nothing interesting in a heathen town. All are busy in
+preparing food or clothing, mats or baskets, whilst the women are
+cleaning or grinding their corn, which involves much hard labour. They
+first dry this in the sun, then put it into a mortar, and afterwards
+with a flat basket clean off the husks and the dust, and grind it
+between two stones, the next thing is to bring wood and water to cook
+it. The chief here was aroused the other day, and threatened to burn
+his own house and all his property because the people stole from it,
+but he did not proceed so far: it was probably a way of letting the
+Arab dependants know that he was aroused.
+
+Some of the people who went to fight attacked a large village, and
+killed several men; but in shooting in a bushy place they killed one
+of their own party and wounded another.
+
+On inquiring of an Arab who had sailed on Tanganyika which way the
+water flowed, he replied to the south!
+
+The wagtails build in the thatch of the huts; they are busy, and men
+and other animals are active in the same way.
+
+I am rather perplexed how to proceed. Some Arabs seem determined to go
+westwards as soon as they can make it up with Nsama, whilst others
+distrust him. One man will send his people to pick up what ivory they
+can, but he himself will retire to the Usango country. Nsama is
+expected to-day or to-morrow. It would be such a saving of time and
+fatigue for us to go due west rather than south, and then west, but I
+feel great hesitation as to setting out on the circuitous route.
+Several Arabs came from the Liemba side yesterday; one had sailed on
+Tanganyika, and described the winds there as very baffling, but no one
+of them has a clear idea of the Lake. They described the lower part as
+a "sea," and thought it different from Tanganyika.
+
+Close observation of the natives of Ulungu makes me believe them to
+be extremely polite. The mode of salutation among relatives is to
+place the hands round each other's chests kneeling, they then clap
+their hands close to the ground. Some more abject individuals kiss the
+soil before a chief; the generality kneel only, with the fore-arms
+close to the ground, and the head bowed down to them, saying, "O
+Ajadla chiusa, Mari a bwino." The Usanga say, "Ajé senga." The
+clapping of hands to superiors, and even equals, is in some villages a
+perpetually recurring sound. Aged persons are usually saluted: how
+this extreme deference to each other could have arisen, I cannot
+conceive; it does not seem to be fear of each other that elicits it.
+Even the chiefs inspire no fear, and those cruel old platitudes about
+governing savages by fear seem unknown, yet governed they certainly
+are, and upon the whole very well. The people were not very willing to
+go to punish Nsama's breach of public law, yet, on the decision of the
+chiefs, they went, and came back, one with a wooden stool, another
+with a mat, a third with a calabash of ground-nuts or some dried meat,
+a hoe, or a bow--poor, poor pay for a fortnight's hard work hunting
+fugitives and burning villages.
+
+_16th June, 1867._--News came to-day that an Arab party in the
+south-west, in Lunda, lost about forty people by the small-pox
+("ndué"), and that the people there, having heard of the disturbance
+with Nsama, fled from the Arabs, and would sell neither ivory nor
+food: this looks like another obstacle to our progress thither.
+
+_17th-19th June, 1867._--Hamees went to meet the party from the
+south-west, probably to avoid bringing the small-pox here. They remain
+at about two hours' distance. Hamees reports that though the strangers
+had lost a great many people by small-pox, they had brought good news
+of certain Arabs still further west: one, Seide ben Umale, or Salem,
+lived at a village near Casembe, ten days distant, and another, Juma
+Merikano, or Katata Katanga, at another village further north, and
+Seide ben Habib was at Phueto, which is nearer Tanganyika. This party
+comprises the whole force of Hamees, and he now declares that he will
+go to Nsama and make the matter up, as he thinks that he is afraid to
+come here, and so he will make the first approach to friendship.
+
+On pondering over the whole subject, I see that, tiresome as it is to
+wait, it is better to do so than go south and then west, for if I
+should go I shall miss seeing Moero, which is said to be three days
+from Nsama's present abode. His people go there for salt, and I could
+not come to it from the south without being known to them, and perhaps
+considered to be an Arab. Hamees remarked that it was the Arab way
+first to smooth the path before entering upon it; sending men and
+presents first, thereby ascertaining the disposition of the
+inhabitants. He advises patience, and is in hopes of making a peace
+with Nsama. That his hopes are not unreasonable, he mentioned that
+when the disturbance began, Nsama sent men with two tusks to the
+village whence he had just been expelled, offering thereby to make the
+matter up, but the Arabs, suspecting treachery, fired upon the
+carriers and killed them, then ten goats and one tusk were sent with
+the same object, and met with a repulse; Hamees thinks that had he
+been there himself the whole matter would have been settled amicably.
+
+All complain of cold here. The situation is elevated, and we are
+behind a clump of trees on the rivulet Chiloa, which keeps the sun off
+us in the mornings. This cold induces the people to make big fires in
+their huts, and frequently their dwellings are burned. Minimum
+temperature is as low as 46°; sometimes 33°.
+
+_24th June, 1867._--The Arabs are all busy reading their Koran, or
+Kurán, and in praying for direction; to-morrow they will call a
+meeting to deliberate as to what steps they will take in the Nsama
+affair. Hamees, it seems, is highly thought of by that chief, who
+says, "Let him come, and all will be right." Hamees proposes to go
+with but a few people. These Zanzibar men are very different from the
+slavers of the Waiyau country.
+
+_25th June, 1867._--The people, though called, did not assemble, but
+they will come to-morrow.
+
+Young wagtails nearly full-fledged took wing, leaving one in the nest;
+from not being molested by the people they took no precautions, and
+ran out of the nest on the approach of the old ones, making a loud
+chirping. The old ones tried to induce the last one to come out too,
+by flying to the nest, and then making a sally forth, turning round
+immediately to see if he followed: he took a few days longer.
+
+It was decided at the meeting that Hamees, with a few people only,
+should go to Nsama on the first day after the appearance of the new
+moon (they are very particular on this point); the present month
+having been an unhappy one they will try the next.
+
+_28th June, 1867._--A wedding took place among the Arabs to-day. About
+a hundred blank cartridges were fired off, and a procession of males,
+dressed in their best, marched through the village. They sang with all
+their might, though with but little music in the strain. Women
+sprinkled grain on their heads as wishes for plenty.[54]
+
+Nsama is said to be waiting for the Arabs in his new stockade. It is
+impossible to ascertain exactly who is to blame in this matter, for I
+hear one side only; but the fact of the chiefs in this part of the
+country turning out so readily to punish his breach of public law, and
+no remonstrance coming from him, makes me suspect that Nsama is the
+guilty party. If he had been innocent he certainly would have sent to
+ask the Bulungu, or Bäulungu, why they had attacked his people without
+cause.
+
+
+[Here is an entry concerning the tribe living far to the East.]
+
+
+The Wasongo seem much like Zulus; they go naked, and have prodigious
+numbers of cattle, which occupy the same huts with their owners. Oxen
+two shukahs each; plenty of milk. Meréré is very liberal with his
+cattle, and gives every one an ox: there is no rice, but maize and
+maëre. Hamees left the people to cultivate rice. Meréré had plenty of
+ivory when the Arabs came first, but now has none.
+
+_1st July, 1867._--New moon to-day. They are very particular as to the
+time of offering up prayers, and in making charms. One to-night was at
+10 P.M. exactly.
+
+A number of cabalistic figures were drawn by Halfani, and it is
+believed that by these Nsama's whereabouts may be ascertained; they
+are probably remains of the secret arts which prevailed among Arabs
+before Mahomet appeared. These Suaheli Arabs appear to have come down
+the coast before that Prophet was born.
+
+_3rd July, 1867._--Kasonso's people are expected. All the captives
+that were taken are to be returned, and a quantity of cloth given to
+Nsama in addition: so far all seems right. The new moon will appear
+to-night. The Arabs count from one appearance to the next, not, as we
+do, from its conjunction with the sun to the next.
+
+_4th July, 1867._--Katawanya came from near Liemba to join the
+peacemakers. He and his party arrived at Liemba after we did; he sent
+his people all round to seek ivory; they don't care for anything but
+ivory, and cannot understand why I don't do the same.
+
+_6th July, 1867._--An earthquake happened at 3.30 P.M., accompanied
+with a hollow rumbling sound; it made me feel as if afloat, but it
+lasted only a few seconds. The boys came running to ask me what it
+was. Nowhere could it be safer; the huts will not fall, and there are
+no high rocks near. Barometer 25.0. Temperature 68° 5'. Heavy cumuli
+hanging about; no rain afterwards.
+
+_7th July, 1867._--Hamees started this morning with about 300
+followers dressed in all their finery, and he declares that his sole
+object is peace. Kasonso, Mombo, Chitimba send their people, and go
+themselves to lend all their influence in favour of peace. Syde stops
+here. Before starting Syde put some incense on hot coals, and all the
+leaders of the party joined in a short prayer; they seem earnest and
+sincere in their incantations, according to their knowledge and
+belief. I wished to go too, but Hamees objected, as not being quite
+sure whether Nsama would be friendly, and he would not like anything
+to befall me when with him.
+
+_8th July, 1867._--Kasonso found an excuse for not going himself. Two
+men, Arabs it was said, came to Chibué's and were there killed, and
+Kasonso must go to see about it. The people who go carry food with
+them, evidently not intending to live by plunder this time.
+
+While the peacemakers are gone I am employing time in reading Smith's
+'Bible Dictionary,' and calculating different positions which have
+stood over in travelling. I don't succeed well in the Bäulungu
+dialect.
+
+The owners of huts lent to strangers have a great deal of toil
+in consequence; they have to clean them after the visitors have
+withdrawn; then, in addition to this, to clean themselves, all
+soiled by the dust left by the lodgers; their bodies and clothes
+have to be cleansed afterwards--they add food too in all cases of
+acquaintanceship, and then we have to remember the labour of preparing
+that food. My remaining here enables me to observe that both men and
+women are in almost constant employment. The men are making mats, or
+weaving, or spinning; no one could witness their assiduity in their
+little affairs and conclude that they were a lazy people. The only
+idle time I observe here is in the mornings about seven o'clock, when
+all come and sit to catch the first rays of the sun as he comes over
+our clump of trees, but even that time is often taken as an
+opportunity for stringing beads.
+
+I hear that some of Nsama's people crossed the Lovu at Karambo to
+plunder, in retaliation for what they have suffered, and the people
+there were afraid to fish, lest they should be caught by them at a
+distance from their stockades.
+
+The Bäulungu men are in general tall and well formed, they use bows
+over six feet in length, and but little bent. The facial angle is as
+good in most cases as in Europeans, and they have certainly as little
+of the "lark-heel" as whites. One or two of the under front teeth are
+generally knocked out in women, and also in men.
+
+_14th July, 1867._--Syde added to his other presents some more beads:
+all have been very kind, which I attribute in a great measure to Seyed
+Majid's letter. Hamees crossed the Lovu to-day at a fordable spot. The
+people on the other side refused to go with a message to Nsama, so
+Hamees had to go and compel them by destroying their stockade. A
+second village acted in the same way, though told that it was only
+peace that was sought of Nsama: this stockade suffered the same fate,
+and then the people went to Nsama, and he showed no reluctance to have
+intercourse. He gave abundance of food, pombe, and bananas; the
+country being extremely fertile. Nsama also came and ratified the
+peace by drinking blood with several of the underlings of Hamees. He
+is said to be an enormously bloated old man, who cannot move unless
+carried, and women are constantly in attendance pouring pombe into
+him. He gave Hamees ten tusks, and promised him twenty more, and also
+to endeavour to make his people return what goods they plundered from
+the Arabs, and he is to send his people over here to call us after
+the new moon appears.
+
+It is tiresome beyond measure to wait so long, but I hope to see Moero
+for this exercise of patience, and I could not have visited it had
+Hamees not succeeded in making peace.
+
+_17th July, 1867._--A lion roared very angrily at the village last
+night, he was probably following the buffaloes that sometimes come
+here to drink at night: they are all very shy, and so is all the game,
+from fear of arrows.
+
+A curious disease has attacked my left eyelid and surrounding parts: a
+slight degree of itchiness is followed by great swelling of the part.
+It must be a sort of lichen; exposure to the sun seems to cure it, and
+this leads me to take long walks therein. This is about 30° 19' E.
+long.; lat. 8° 57' 55" S.
+
+_24th July, 1867._--A fire broke out at 4 A.M., and there being no
+wind the straw roofs were cleared off in front of it on our side of
+the village. The granaries were easily unroofed, as the roof is not
+attached to the walls, and the Arabs tried to clear a space on their
+side, but were unable, and then moved all their ivory and goods
+outside the stockade; their side of the village was all consumed, and
+three goats perished in the flames.
+
+Chitimba has left us from a fear of his life, he says; it is probable
+that he means this flight to be used as an excuse to Nsama after we
+are gone. "And I, too, was obliged to flee from my village to save my
+life! What could I do?" This is to be his argument, I suspect.
+
+A good many slaves came from the two villages that were destroyed: on
+inquiry I was told that these would be returned when Nsama gave the
+ivory promised.
+
+When Nsama was told that an Englishman wished to go past him to Moero,
+he replied, "Bring him, and I shall send men to take him thither."
+
+Hamees is building a "tembé," or house, with a flat roof, and walls
+plastered over with mud, to keep his ivory from fire while he is
+absent. We expect that Nsama will send for us a few days after the 2nd
+August, when the new moon appears; if they do not come soon Hamees
+will send men to Nsama without waiting for his messengers.
+
+_28th July, 1867._--Prayers, with the Litany.[55] Slavery is a great
+evil wherever I have seen it. A poor old woman and child are among the
+captives, the boy about three years old seems a mother's pet. His feet
+are sore from walking in the sun. He was offered for two fathoms, and
+his mother for one fathom; he understood it all, and cried bitterly,
+clinging to his mother. She had, of course, no power to help him; they
+were separated at Karungu afterwards.
+
+[The above is an episode of every-day occurrence in the wake of the
+slave-dealer. "Two fathoms," mentioned as the price of the boy's
+life--the more valuable of the two, means four yards of unbleached
+calico, which is a universal article of barter throughout the greater
+part of Africa: the mother was bought for two yards. The reader must
+not think that there are no lower prices; in the famines which succeed
+the slave-dealer's raids, boys and girls are at times to be purchased
+by the dealer for a few handfuls of maize.]
+
+_29th July, 1867._--Went 2 1/2 hours west to village of Ponda, where a
+head Arab, called by the natives Tipo Tipo, lives; his name is Hamid
+bin Mahamed bin Juma Borajib. He presented a goat, a piece of white
+calico, and four big bunches of beads, also a bag of Holcus sorghum,
+and apologised because it was so little. He had lost much by Nsama;
+and received two arrow wounds there; they had only twenty guns at the
+time, but some were in the stockade, and though the people of Nsama
+were very numerous they beat them off, and they fled carrying the
+bloated carcase of Nsama with them. Some reported that boxes were
+found in the village, which belonged to parties who had perished
+before, but Syde assured me that this was a mistake.
+
+Moero is three days distant, and as Nsama's people go thither to
+collect salt on its banks, it would have been impossible for me to
+visit it from the south without being seen, and probably suffering
+loss.
+
+The people seem to have no family names. A man takes the name of his
+mother, or should his father die he may assume that. Marriage is
+forbidden to the first, second, and third degrees: they call first and
+second cousins brothers and sisters.
+
+A woman, after cupping her child's temples for sore eyes, threw the
+blood over the roof of her hut as a charm.
+
+[In the above process a goat's horn is used with a small hole in the
+pointed end. The base is applied to the part from which the blood is
+to be withdrawn, and the operator, with a small piece of chewed
+india-rubber in his mouth, exhausts the air, and at the proper moment
+plasters the small hole up with his tongue. When the cupping-horn is
+removed, some cuts are made with a small knife, and it is again
+applied. As a rough appliance, it is a very good one, and in great
+repute everywhere.]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[50] It subsequently proved to be the southern extremity of this great
+Lake.
+
+[51] Elais, sp.(?).
+
+[52] This is a common symptom--men will suddenly lose all power in the
+lower extremities, and remain helpless where they fall.--ED.
+
+[53] The men heard in 1873 that he had been killed.
+
+[54] This comes near to the custom of throwing rice after the bride
+and bridegroom in England.--ED.
+
+[55] In his Journal the Doctor writes "S," and occasionally "Service,"
+whenever a Sunday entry occurs. We may add that at all times during
+his travels the Services of the Church of England were resorted to by
+him.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Peace negotiations with Nsama. Geographical gleanings. Curious
+    spider. Reach the River Lofu. Arrives at Nsama's. Hamees marries
+    the daughter of Nsama. Flight of the bride. Conflagration in
+    Arab quarters. Anxious to visit Lake Moero. Arab burial. Serious
+    illness. Continues journey. Slave-traders on the march. Reaches
+    Moero. Description of the Lake. Information concerning the
+    Chambezé and Luapula. Hears of Lake Bemba. Visits spot of Dr.
+    Lacerda's death. Casembe apprised of Livingstone's approach.
+    Meets Mohamad Bogharib. Lakelet Mofwé. Arrives at Casembe's
+    town.
+
+
+_1st August, 1867._--Hamees sends off men to trade at Chiweré's.
+_Zikwé_ is the name for locust here. Nsigé or Zigé and Pansi the
+Suaheli names.
+
+A perforated stone had been placed on one of the poles which form the
+gateway into this stockade, it is oblong, seven or eight inches long
+by four broad, and bevelled off on one side and the diameter of the
+hole in the middle is about an inch and a half: it shows evidence of
+the boring process in rings. It is of hard porphyry and of a pinkish
+hue, and resembles somewhat a weight for a digging stick I saw in 1841
+in the hands of a Bushwoman: I saw one at a gateway near Kasonso's.
+The people know nothing of its use except as a charm to keep away evil
+from the village.
+
+_2nd August, 1867._--Chronometer A. stopped to-day without any
+apparent cause except the earthquake.
+
+It is probably malaria which causes that constant singing in the ears
+ever since my illness at Lake Liemba.
+
+_3rd August, 1867._--We expect a message from Nsama every day, the
+new moon having appeared on the first of this month, and he was to
+send after its appearance.
+
+_5th August, 1867._--Men came yesterday with the message that Hamees
+must wait a little longer, as Nsama had not yet got all the ivory and
+the goods which were stolen: they remained over yesterday. The
+headman, Katala, says that Lunda is eight days from Nsama or Moero,
+and in going we cross a large river called Movue, which flows into
+Luapula; another river called Mokobwa comes from the south-east into
+Moero. Itawa is the name of Nsama's country and people.
+
+A day distant from Nsama's place there is a hot fountain called "Paka
+pezhia," and around it the earth shakes at times: it is possible that
+the earthquake we felt here may be connected with this same centre of
+motion.
+
+_6th August, 1867._--The weather is becoming milder. An increase of
+cold was caused by the wind coming from the south. We have good
+accounts of the Wasongo from all the Arabs, their houses built for
+cattle are flat-roofed and enormously large; one, they say, is a
+quarter of a mile long. Meréré the chief has his dwelling-house within
+it: milk, butter, cheese, are in enormous quantities; the tribe, too,
+is very large. I fear that they may be spoiled by the Arab underlings.
+
+_7th August, 1867._--Some of my people went down to Karambo and were
+detained by the chief, who said "I won't let you English go away and
+leave me in trouble with these Arabs."
+
+A slave had been given in charge to a man here and escaped, the Arabs
+hereupon went to Karambo and demanded payment from the chief there; he
+offered clothing, but they refused it, and would have a man; he then
+offered a man, but this man having two children they demanded all
+three. They bully as much as they please by their fire-arms. After
+being spoken to by my people the Arabs came away. The chief begged
+that I would come and visit him once more, for only one day, but it
+is impossible, for we expect to move directly. I sent the information
+to Hamees, who replied that they had got a clue to the man who was
+wiling away their slaves from them. My people saw others of the low
+squad which always accompanies the better-informed Arabs bullying the
+people of another village, and taking fowls and food without payment.
+Slavery makes a bad neighbourhood!
+
+Hamees is on friendly terms with a tribe of Mazitu who say that they
+have given up killing people. They lifted a great many cattle, but
+have very few now; some of them came with him to show the way to
+Kasonso's.
+
+Slaves are sold here in the same open way that the business is carried
+on in Zanzibar slave-market. A man goes about calling out the price he
+wants for the slave, who walks behind him; if a woman, she is taken
+into a hut to be examined in a state of nudity.
+
+Some of the Arabs believe that meteoric stones are thrown at Satan for
+his wickedness. They believe that cannon were taken up Kilimanjaro by
+the first Arabs who came into the country, and there they lie. They
+deny that Van der Decken did more than go round a portion of the base
+of the mountain; he could not get on the mass of the mountain: all his
+donkeys and some of his men died by the cold. Hamees seems to be
+Cooley's great geographical oracle!
+
+The information one can cull from the Arabs respecting the country on
+the north-west is very indefinite. They magnify the difficulties in
+the way by tales of the cannibal tribes, where anyone dying is bought
+and no one ever buried, but this does not agree with the fact, which
+also is asserted, that the cannibals have plenty of sheep and goats.
+The Rua is about ten days west of Tanganyika, and five days beyond it
+a lake or river ten miles broad is reached; it is said to be called
+Logarawá. All the water flows northwards, but no reliance can be
+placed on the statements. Kiombo is said to be chief of Rua country.
+
+Another man asserts that Tanganyika flows northwards and forms a large
+water beyond Uganda, but no dependence can be placed on the statements
+of these half Arabs; they pay no attention to anything but ivory and
+food.
+
+_25th August, 1867._--Nsama requested the Arabs to give back his son
+who was captured; some difficulty was made about this by his captor,
+but Hamees succeeded in getting him and about nine others, and they
+are sent off to-day. We wait only for the people, who are scattered
+about the country. Hamees presented cakes, flour, a fowl and leg of
+goat, with a piece of eland meat: this animal goes by the same name
+here as at Kolobeng--"Pofu."[56]
+
+A fig-tree here has large knobs on the bark, like some species of
+acacia; and another looks like the Malolo of the Zambesi magnified. A
+yellow wood gives an odour like incense when burned.
+
+A large spider makes a nest inside the huts. It consists of a piece of
+pure white paper, an inch and a half broad, stuck flat on the wall;
+under this some forty or fifty eggs are placed, and then a quarter of
+an inch of thinner paper is put round it, apparently to fasten the
+first firmly. When making the paper the spider moves itself over the
+surface in wavy lines; she then sits on it with her eight legs spread
+over all for three weeks continuously, catching and eating any
+insects, as cockroaches, that come near her nest. After three weeks
+she leaves it to hunt for food, but always returns at night: the
+natives do not molest it.
+
+A small ant masters the common fly by seizing a wing or leg, and
+holding on till the fly is tired out; at first the fly can move about
+on the wing without inconvenience, but it is at last obliged to
+succumb to an enemy very much smaller than itself.
+
+A species of Touraco, new to me, has a broad yellow mask on the upper
+part of the bill and forehead; the topknot is purple, the wings the
+same as in other species, but the red is roseate. The yellow of the
+mask plates is conspicuous at a distance.
+
+A large callosity forms on the shoulders of the regular Unyamwesi
+porters, from the heavy weights laid on them. I have noticed them an
+inch and a half thick along the top of the shoulders. An old man was
+pointed out to me who had once carried five frasilahs (= 175 lbs.) of
+ivory from his own country to the coast.
+
+_30th August, 1867._--We marched to-day from Chitimba's village after
+three months and ten days' delay. On reaching Ponda, 2-1/2 hours
+distant, we found Tipo Tipo, or Hamidi bin Mohamad, gone on, and so we
+followed him. Passed a fine stream flowing S.W. to the Lofu. Tipo Tipo
+gave me a fine fat goat.
+
+_31st August, 1867._--Pass along a fine undulating district, with much
+country covered with forest, but many open glades, and fine large
+trees along the water-courses. We were on the northern slope of the
+watershed, and could see far. Crossed two fine rivulets. The oozes
+still full and flowing.
+
+_1st September, 1867._--We had to march in the afternoon on account of
+a dry patch existing in the direct way. We slept without water, though
+by diverging a few miles to the north we should have crossed many
+streams, but this is the best path for the whole year.
+
+Baraka went back to Tipo Tipo's village, thus putting his intention of
+begging among the Arab slaves into operation. He has only one
+complaint, and that is dislike to work. He tried perseveringly to get
+others to run away with him; lost the medicine-box, six table-cloths,
+and all our tools by giving his load off to a country lad while he
+went to collect mushrooms: he will probably return to Zanzibar, and be
+a slave to the Arab slaves after being a perpetual nuisance to us for
+upwards of a year.
+
+_2nd September, 1867._--When we reached the ford of the Lofu, we found
+that we were at least a thousand feet below Chitimba's. The last six
+hours of our march were without water, but when near to Chungu's
+village at the ford we came to fine flowing rivulets, some ten feet or
+so broad. Here we could see westwards and northwards the long lines of
+hills of denudation in Nsama's country, which till lately was densely
+peopled. Nsama is of the Babemba family. Kasonso, Chitimba, Kiwé,
+Urongwé, are equals and of one family, Urungai. Chungu is a pleasant
+person, and liberal according to his means. Large game is very
+abundant through all this country.
+
+The Lofu at the ford was 296 feet, the water flowing briskly over
+hardened sandstone flag, and from thigh to waist deep; elsewhere it is
+a little narrower, but not passable except by canoes.
+
+_4th and 5th September, 1867._--Went seven hours west of the Lofu to a
+village called Hara, one of those burned by Hamees because the people
+would not take a peaceful message to Nsama. This country is called
+Itawa, and Hara is one of the districts. We waited at Hara to see if
+Nsama wished us any nearer to himself. He is very much afraid of the
+Arabs, and well he may be, for he was until lately supposed to be
+invincible. He fell before twenty muskets, and this has caused a panic
+throughout the country. The land is full of food, though the people
+have nearly all fled. The ground-nuts are growing again for want of
+reapers; and 300 people living at free-quarters make no impression on
+the food.
+
+_9th September, 1867._--Went three hours west of Hara, and came to
+Nsama's new stockade, built close by the old one burned by Tipo Tipo,
+as Hamidi bin Mohamed was named by Nsama.[57] I sent a message to
+Nsama, and received an invitation to come and visit him, but bring no
+guns. A large crowd of his people went with us, and before we came to
+the inner stockade they felt my clothes to see that no fire-arms were
+concealed about my person. When we reached Nsama, we found a very old
+man, with a good head and face and a large abdomen, showing that he
+was addicted to pombe: his people have to carry him. I gave him a
+cloth, and asked for guides to Moero, which he readily granted, and
+asked leave to feel my clothes and hair. I advised him to try and live
+at peace, but his people were all so much beyond the control of
+himself and headmen, that at last, after scolding them, he told me
+that he would send for me by night, and then we could converse, but
+this seems to have gone out of his head. He sent me a goat, flour, and
+pombe, and next day we returned to Hara.
+
+Nsama's people have generally small, well-chiseled features, and many
+are really handsome, and have nothing of the West Coast Negro about
+them, but they file their teeth to sharp points, and greatly disfigure
+their mouths. The only difference between them and Europeans is the
+colour. Many of the men have very finely-formed heads, and so have the
+women; and the fashion of wearing the hair sets off their foreheads to
+advantage. The forehead is shaved off to the crown, the space
+narrowing as it goes up; then the back hair, is arranged into knobs of
+about ten rows.
+
+_10th September, 1867._--Some people of Ujiji have come to Nsama's to
+buy ivory with beads, but, finding that the Arabs have forestalled
+them in the market, they intend to return in their dhow, or rather
+canoe, which is manned by about fifty hands. My goods are reported
+safe, and the meat of the buffaloes which died in the way is there,
+and sun-dried. I sent a box, containing papers, books, and some
+clothes, to Ujiji.
+
+_14th September, 1867._--I remained at Hara, for I was ill, and Hamees
+had no confidence in Nsama, because he promised his daughter to wife
+by way of cementing the peace, but had not given her. Nsama also told
+Hamees to stay at Hara, and he would send him ivory for sale, but none
+came, nor do people come here to sell provisions, as they do
+elsewhere; so Hamees will return to Chitimba's, to guard his people
+and property there, and send on Syde Hamidi and his servants to
+Lopéré, Kabuiré, and Moero, to buy ivory. He advised me to go with
+them, as he has no confidence in Nsama; and Hamidi thought that this
+was the plan to be preferred: it would be slower, as they would
+purchase ivory on the road, but safer to pass his country altogether
+than trust myself in his power.
+
+The entire population of the country has received a shock from the
+conquest of Nsama, and their views of the comparative values of bows
+and arrows and guns have undergone a great change. Nsama was the
+Napoleon of these countries; no one could stand before him, hence the
+defeat of the invincible Nsama has caused a great panic. The Arabs say
+that they lost about fifty men in all: Nsama must have lost at least
+an equal number. The people seem intelligent, and will no doubt act on
+the experience so dearly bought.
+
+In the midst of the doubts of Hamees a daughter of Nsama came this
+afternoon to be a wife and cementer of the peace! She came riding
+"pickaback" on a man's shoulders; a nice, modest, good-looking young
+woman, her hair rubbed all over with _nkola_, a red pigment, made from
+the camwood, and much used as an ornament. She was accompanied by
+about a dozen young and old female attendants, each carrying a small
+basket with some provisions, as cassava, ground-nuts, &c. The Arabs
+were all dressed in their finery, and the slaves, in fantastic
+dresses, flourished swords, fired guns, and yelled. When she was
+brought to Hamees' hut she descended, and with her maids went into the
+hut. She and her attendants had all small, neat features. I had been
+sitting with Hamees, and now rose up and went away; as I passed him,
+he spoke thus to himself: "Hamees Wadim Tagh! see to what you have
+brought yourself!!"
+
+_15th September, 1867._--A guide had come from Nsama to take us to the
+countries beyond his territory. Hamees set off this morning with his
+new wife to his father-in-law, but was soon met by two messengers, who
+said that he was not to come yet. We now sent for all the people who
+were out to go west or north-west without reference to Nsama.
+
+_16th-18th September, 1867._--Hamidi went to Nsama to try and get
+guides, but he would not let him come into his stockade unless he came
+up to it without either gun or sword. Hamidi would not go in on these
+conditions, but Nsama promised guides, and they came after a visit by
+Hamees to Nsama, which he paid without telling any of us: he is
+evidently ashamed of his father-in-law.
+
+Those Arabs who despair of ivory invest their remaining beads and
+cloth in slaves.
+
+_20th September, 1867._--I had resolved to go to Nsama's, and thence
+to Moero to-day, but Hamees sent to say that men had come, and we were
+all to go with them on the 22nd. Nsama was so vacillating that I had
+no doubt but this was best.
+
+Hamees' wife, seeing the preparations that were made for starting,
+thought that her father was to be attacked, so she, her attendants,
+and the guides decamped by night. Hamees went again to Nsama and got
+other guides to enable us to go off at once.
+
+_22nd September, 1867._--We went north for a couple of hours, then
+descended into the same valley as that in which I found Nsama. This
+valley is on the slope of the watershed, and lies east and west: a
+ridge of dark-red sandstone, covered with trees, forms its side on the
+south. Other ridges like this make the slope have the form of a stair
+with huge steps: the descent is gradually lost as we insensibly climb
+up the next ridge. The first plain between the steps is at times
+swampy, and the paths are covered with the impressions of human feet,
+which, being hardened by the sun, make walking on their uneven surface
+very difficult. Mosquitoes again; we had lost them during our long
+stay on the higher lands behind us.
+
+_23rd September, 1867._--A fire had broken out the night after we left
+Hara, and the wind being strong, it got the upper hand, and swept away
+at once the whole of the temporary village of dry straw huts: Hamees
+lost all his beads, guns, powder, and cloth, except one bale. The news
+came this morning, and prayers were at once offered for him with
+incense; some goods will also be sent, as a little incense was. The
+prayer-book was held in the smoke of the incense while the responses
+were made. These Arabs seem to be very religious in their way: the
+prayers were chiefly to Harasji, some relative of Mohamad.
+
+_24th September, 1867._--Roused at 3 A.M. to be told that the next
+stage had no water, and we should be oppressed with the midday heat if
+we went now. We were to go at 2 P.M. Hamidi's wife being ill yesterday
+put a stop to our march on that afternoon. After the first hour we
+descended from the ridge to which we had ascended, we had then a wall
+of tree-covered rocks on our left of more than a thousand feet in
+altitude; after flanking it for a while we went up, and then along it
+northwards till it vanished in forest. Slept without a fresh supply of
+water.
+
+_25th September, 1867._--Off at 5.30 A.M., through the same well-grown
+forest we have passed and came to a village stockade, where the gates
+were shut, and the men all outside, in fear of the Arabs; we then
+descended from the ridge on which it stood, about a thousand feet,
+into an immense plain, with a large river in the distance, some ten
+miles off.
+
+_26th September, 1867._--Two and a half hours brought us to the large
+river we saw yesterday; it is more than a mile wide and full of
+papyrus and other aquatic plants and very difficult to ford, as the
+papyrus roots are hard to the bare feet, and we often plunged into
+holes up to the waist. A loose mass floated in the middle of our path;
+one could sometimes get on along this while it bent and heaved under
+the weight, but through it he would plunge and find great difficulty
+to get out: the water under this was very cold from evaporation; it
+took an hour and a half to cross it. It is called Chiséra, and winds
+away to the west to fall into the Kalongosi and Moero. Many animals,
+as elephants, tahetsis, zebras, and buffaloes, graze on the long
+sloping banks of about a quarter of a mile down, while the ranges of
+hills we crossed as mere ridges now appear behind us in the south.
+
+_27th September, 1867._--The people are numerous and friendly. One
+elephant was killed, and we remained to take the ivory from the dead
+beast; buffaloes and zebras were also killed. It was so cloudy that no
+observations could be taken to determine our position, but Chiséra
+rises in Lopéré. Further west it is free of papyrus, and canoes are
+required to cross it.
+
+_28th September, 1867._--Two hours north brought us to the Kamosenga,
+a river eight yards wide, of clear water which ran strongly among
+aquatic plants. Hippopotami, buffalo, and zebra abound. This goes into
+the Chiséra eastwards; country flat and covered with dense tangled
+bush. Cassias and another tree of the pea family are now in flower,
+and perfume the air. Other two hours took us round a large bend of
+this river.
+
+_30th September, 1867._.--We crossed the Kamosenga or another, and
+reach Karungu's. The Kamosenga divides Lopéré from Itawa, the latter
+being Nsama's country; Lopéré is north-west of it.
+
+_1st October, 1867._--Karungu was very much afraid of us; he kept
+every one out of his stockade at first, but during the time the Arabs
+sent forward to try and conciliate other chiefs he gradually became
+more friendly. He had little ivory to sell, and of those who had,
+Mtété or Mtéma seemed inclined to treat the messengers roughly. Men
+were also sent to Nsama asking him to try and induce Mtéma and
+Chikongo to be friendly and sell ivory and provisions, but he replied
+that these chiefs were not men under him, and if they thought
+themselves strong enough to contend against guns he had nothing to say
+to them. Other chiefs threatened to run away as soon as they saw the
+Arabs approaching. These were assured that we meant to pass through
+the country alone, and if they gave us guides to show us how, we
+should avoid the villages altogether, and proceed to the countries
+where ivory was to be bought; however, the panic was too great, no one
+would agree to our overtures, and at last when we did proceed a chief
+on the River Choma fulfilled his threat and left us three empty
+villages. There were no people to sell though the granaries were
+crammed, and it was impossible to prevent the slaves from stealing.
+
+_3rd-4th October, 1867._--When Chikongo heard Tipo Tipo's message
+about buying ivory he said, "And when did Tipo Tipo place ivory in my
+country that he comes seeking it?" Yet he sent a tusk and said "That
+is all I have, and he is not to come here." Their hostile actions are
+caused principally by fear. "If Nsama could not stand before the
+Malongwana or traders, how can we face them?" I wished to go on to
+Moero, but all declare that our ten guns would put all the villages to
+flight: they are terror-struck. First rains of this season on the 5th.
+
+_10th October, 1867._--I had a long conversation with Syde, who thinks
+that the sun rises and sets because the Koran says so, and he sees it.
+He asserts that Jesus foretold the coming of Mohamad; and that it was
+not Jesus who suffered on the cross but a substitute, it being
+unlikely that a true prophet would be put to death so ignominiously.
+He does not understand how we can be glad that our Saviour died for
+our sins.
+
+_12th October, 1867._--An elephant killed by Tipo Tipo's men. It is
+always clouded over, and often not a breath of air stirring.
+
+_16th October, 1867._--A great many of the women of this district and
+of Lopéré have the swelled thyroid gland called _goitre_ or Derbyshire
+neck; men, too, appeared with it, and they in addition have hydrocele
+of large size.
+
+An Arab who had been long ill at Chitimba's died yesterday, and was
+buried in the evening. No women were allowed to come near. A long
+silent prayer was uttered over the corpse when it was laid beside the
+grave, and then a cloth was held over as men in it deposited the
+remains beneath sticks placed slanting on the side of the bottom of
+the grave; this keeps the earth from coming directly into contact with
+the body.
+
+A feast was made by the friends of the departed, and portions sent to
+all who had attended the funeral: I got a good share.
+
+_18th October, 1867._--The last we hear of Nsama is that he will not
+interfere with Chikongo. Two wives beat drums and he dances to them;
+he is evidently in his dotage. We hear of many Arabs to the west of
+us.
+
+_20th October, 1867._--Very ill; I am always so when I have no
+work--sore bones--much headache; then lost power over the muscles of
+the back, as at Liemba; no appetite and much thirst. The fever
+uninfluenced by medicine.
+
+_21st October, 1867._--Syde sent his men to build a new hut in a
+better situation. I hope it may be a healthful one for me.
+
+_22nd October, 1867._--The final message from Chikongo was a
+discouraging one--no ivory. The Arabs, however, go west with me as far
+as Chisawé's, who, being accustomed to Arabs from Tanganyika, will
+give me men to take me on to Moero: the Arabs will then return, and we
+shall move on.
+
+_23rd October, 1867._--Tipo Tipo gave Karungu some cloth, and this
+chief is "looking for something" to give him in return; this detains
+us one day more.
+
+When a slave wishes to change his master he goes to one whom he likes
+better and breaks a spear or a bow in his presence--the transference
+is irrevocable. This curious custom prevails on the Zambesi, and also
+among the Wanyamwesi; if the old master wishes to recover his slave
+the new one may refuse to part with him except when he gets his full
+price: a case of this kind happened here yesterday.
+
+_25th October, 1867._--Authority was found in the Koran for staying
+one day more here. This was very trying; but the fact was our guide
+from Hara hither had enticed a young slave girl to run away, and he
+had given her in charge to one of his countrymen, who turned round and
+tried to secure her for himself, and gave information about the other
+enticing her away. Nothing can be more tedious than the Arab way of
+travelling.
+
+_26th October, 1867._--We went S.W. for five hours through an
+undulating, well-wooded, well-peopled country, and quantities of large
+game. Several trees give out when burned very fine scents; others do
+it when cut. Euphorbia is abundant. We slept by a torrent which had
+been filled with muddy water by late rains. It thunders every
+afternoon, and rains somewhere as regularly as it thunders, but these
+are but partial rains; they do not cool the earth; nor fill the cracks
+made in the dry season.
+
+_27th October, 1867._--Off early in a fine drizzling rain, which
+continued for two hours, and came on to a plain about three miles
+broad, full of large game. These plains are swamps at times, and they
+are flanked by ridges of denudation some 200 or 300 feet above them,
+and covered with trees.
+
+The ridges are generally hardened sandstone, marked with madrepores,
+and masses of brown haematite. It is very hot, and we become very
+tired. There is no system in the Arab marches. The first day was five
+hours, this 3-1/2 hours; had it been reversed--short marches during
+the first days and longer afterwards--the muscles would have become
+inured to the exertion. A long line of heights on our south points to
+the valley of Nsama.
+
+_28th October, 1867._--Five hours brought us to the Choma River and
+the villages of Chifupa, but, as already mentioned, the chief and
+people had fled, and no persuasion could prevail on them to come and
+sell us food. We showed a few who ventured to come among us what we
+were willing to give for flour, but they said, "Yes, we will call the
+women and they will sell." None came.
+
+Rested all day on the banks of the Choma, which is a muddy stream
+coming from the north and going to the south-west to join the Chiséra.
+It has worn itself a deep bed in the mud of its banks, and is twenty
+yards wide and in some spots waist deep, at other parts it is
+unfordable, it contains plenty of fish, and hippopotami and crocodiles
+abound. I bought a few ground-nuts at an exorbitant price, the men
+evidently not seeing that it would have been better to part with more
+at a lower price than run off and leave all to be eaten by the slaves.
+
+_30th October, 1867._--Two ugly images were found in huts built for
+them: they represent in a poor way the people of the country, and are
+used in rain-making and curing the sick ceremonies; this is the
+nearest approach to idol worship I have seen in the country.[58]
+
+_31st October, 1867._--We marched over a long line of hills on our
+west, and in five and a half hours came to some villages where the
+people sold us food willingly, and behaved altogether in a friendly
+way. We were met by a herd of buffaloes, but Syde seized my gun from
+the boy who carried it, and when the animals came close past me I was
+powerless, and not at all pleased with the want of good sense shown by
+my usually polite Arab friend.
+
+_Note_.--The Choma is said by Mohamad bin Saleh to go into Tanganyika
+(??). It goes to Kalongosi.
+
+_1st November, 1867._--We came along between ranges of hills
+considerably higher than those we have passed in Itawa or Nsama's
+country, and thickly covered with trees, some in full foliage, and
+some putting forth fresh red leaves; the hills are about 700 or 800
+feet above the valleys. This is not a district of running rills: we
+crossed three sluggish streamlets knee deep. Buffaloes are very
+numerous.
+
+The Ratel covers the buffalo droppings with earth in order to secure
+the scavenger beetles which bury themselves therein, thus he prevents
+them from rolling a portion away as usual.
+
+We built our sheds on a hillside. Our course was west and 6-1/4 hours.
+
+_2nd November, 1867._--Still in the same direction, and in an open
+valley remarkable for the numbers of a small euphorbia, which we
+smashed at every step. Crossed a small but strong rivulet, the
+Lipandé, going south-west to Moero, then, an hour afterwards, crossed
+it again, now twenty yards wide and knee deep. After descending from
+the tree-covered hill which divides Lipandé from Luao, we crossed the
+latter to sleep on its western bank. The hills are granite now, and a
+range on our left, from 700 to 1500 feet high, goes on all the way to
+Moero.
+
+These valleys along which we travel are beautiful. Green is the
+prevailing colour; but the clumps of trees assume a great variety of
+forms, and often remind one of English park scenery. The long line of
+slaves and carriers, brought up by their Arab employers, adds life to
+the scene, they are in three bodies, and number 450 in all. Each party
+has a guide with a flag, and when that is planted all that company
+stops till it is lifted, and a drum is beaten, and a kudu's horn
+sounded. One party is headed by about a dozen leaders, dressed with
+fantastic head-gear of feathers and beads, red cloth on the bodies,
+and skins cut into strips and twisted: they take their places in line,
+the drum beats, the horn sounds harshly, and all fall in. These sounds
+seem to awaken a sort of _esprit de corps_ in those who have once been
+slaves. My attendants now jumped up, and would scarcely allow me time
+to dress when they heard the-sounds of their childhood, and all day
+they were among the foremost. One said to me "that his feet were
+rotten with marching," and this though told that they were not called
+on to race along like slaves.
+
+The Africans cannot stand sneers. When any mishap occurs in the march
+(as when a branch tilts a load off a man's shoulder) all who see it
+set up a yell of derision; if anything is accidentally spilled, or if
+one is tired and sits down, the same yell greets him, and all are
+excited thereby to exert themselves. They hasten on with their loads,
+and hurry with the sheds they build, the masters only bringing up the
+rear, and helping anyone who may be sick. The distances travelled were
+quite as much as the masters or we could bear. Had frequent halts been
+made--as, for instance, a half or a quarter of an hour at the end of
+every hour or two--but little distress would have been felt; but five
+hours at a stretch is more than men can bear in a hot climate. The
+female slaves held on bravely; nearly all carried loads on their
+heads, the head, or lady of the party, who is also the wife of the
+Arab, was the only exception. She had a fine white shawl, with
+ornaments of gold and silver on her head. These ladies had a jaunty
+walk, and never gave in on the longest march; many pounds' weight of
+fine copper leglets above the ankles seemed only to help the sway of
+their walk: as soon as they arrive at the sleeping-place they begin to
+cook, and in this art they show a good deal of expertness, making
+savoury dishes for their masters out of wild fruits and other not very
+likely materials.
+
+_3rd November, 1867._--The ranges of hills retire as we advance; the
+soil is very rich. At two villages the people did not want us, so we
+went on and encamped near a third, Kabwakwa, where a son of Mohamad
+bin Saleh, with a number of Wanyamwesi, lives. The chief of this part
+is Muabo, but we did not see him: the people brought plenty of food
+for us to buy. The youth's father is at Casembe's. The country-people
+were very much given to falsehood--every place inquired for was
+near--ivory abundant--provisions of all sorts cheap and plenty. Our
+headmen trusted to these statements of this young man rather, and he
+led them to desist going further. Rua country was a month distant, he
+said, and but little ivory there. It is but three days off. (We saw it
+after three days.) "No ivory at Casembe's or here in Buiré, or
+Kabuiré." He was right as to Casembe. Letters, however, came from
+Hamees, with news of a depressing nature. Chitimba is dead, and so is
+Mambwé. Chitimba's people are fighting for the chieftainship: great
+hunger prevails there now, the Arabs having bought up all the food.
+Moriri, a chief dispossessed of his country by Nsama, wished Hamees to
+restore his possessions, but Hamees said that he had made peace, and
+would not interfere.
+
+This unfavourable news from a part where the chief results of their
+trading were deposited, made Syde and Tipo Tipo decide to remain in
+Buiré only ten or twenty days, send out people to buy what ivory they
+could find, and then, retire.
+
+As Syde and Tipo Tipo were sending men to Casembe for ivory, I
+resolved to go thither first, instead of shaping my course for Ujiji.
+
+Very many cases of goitre in men and women here: I see no reason for
+it. This is only 3350 feet above the sea.
+
+_7th November, 1867._--Start for Moero, convoyed by all the Arabs for
+some distance: they have been extremely kind. We draw near to the
+mountain-range on our left, called Kakoma, and sleep at one of
+Kaputa's villages, our course now being nearly south.
+
+_8th November, 1867._--Villages are very thickly studded over the
+valley formed by Kakoma range, and another at a greater distance on
+our right; 100 or 200 yards is a common distance between these
+villages, which, like those in Londa, or Lunda, are all shaded with
+trees of a species of _Ficus indica_. One belongs to Puta, and this
+Puta, the paramount chief, sent to say that if we slept there, and
+gave him a cloth, he would send men to conduct us next day, and ferry
+us across: I was willing to remain, but his people would not lend a
+hut, so we came on to the Lake, and no ferry. Probably he thought that
+we were going across the Lualaba into Rua.
+
+Lake Moero seems of goodly size, and is flanked by ranges of mountains
+on the east and west. Its banks are of coarse sand, and slope
+gradually down to the water: outside these banks stands a thick belt
+of tropical vegetation, in which fishermen build their huts. The
+country called Rua lies on the west, and is seen as a lofty range of
+dark mountains: another range of less height, but more broken, stands
+along the eastern shore, and in it lies the path to Casembe. We slept
+in a fisherman's hut on the north shore. They brought a large fish,
+called "mondé," for sale; it has a slimy skin, and no scales, a large
+head, with tentaculae like the Siluridie, and large eyes: the great
+gums in its mouth have a brush-like surface, like a whale's in
+miniature: it is said to eat small fish. A bony spine rises on its
+back (I suppose for defence), which is 2-1/2 inches long, and as thick
+as a quill. They are very retentive of life.
+
+The northern shore has a fine sweep like an unbent bow, and round the
+western end flows the water that makes the river Lualaba, which,
+before it enters Moero, is the Luapula, and that again (if the most
+intelligent reports speak true) is the Chambezé before it enters Lake
+Bemba, or Bangweolo.
+
+We came along the north shore till we reached the eastern flanking
+range, then ascended and turned south, the people very suspicious,
+shutting their gates as we drew near. We were alone, and only nine
+persons in all, but they must have had reason for fear. One headman
+refused us admission, then sent after us, saying that the man who had
+refused admission was not the chief: he had come from a distance, and
+had just arrived. It being better to appear friendly than otherwise,
+we went back, and were well entertained. Provisions were given when we
+went away. Flies abound, and are very troublesome; they seem to be
+attracted by the great numbers of fish caught. The people here are
+Babemba, but beyond the river Kalongosi they are all Balunda.
+
+A trade in salt is carried on from different salt springs and salt mud
+to Lunda and elsewhere. We meet parties of salt-traders daily, and
+they return our salutations very cordially, rubbing earth on the arms.
+We find our path lies between two ranges of mountains, one flanking
+the eastern shore, the other about three miles more inland, and
+parallel to it: these are covered thickly with trees, and are of
+loosely-coherent granite: many villages are in the space enclosed by
+these ranges, but all insecure.
+
+_12th November, 1867._.--We came to the Kalongosi, or, as the Arabs
+and Portuguese pronounce it, Karungwesi, about 60 yards wide, and
+flowing fast over stones. It is deep enough, even now when the rainy
+season is not commenced, to requite canoes. It is said to rise in
+Kumbi, or Afar, a country to the south-east of our ford. Fish in great
+numbers are caught when ascending to spawn: they are secured by weirs,
+nets, hooks. Large strong baskets are placed in the rapids, and filled
+with stones, when the water rises these baskets are standing-places
+for the fishermen to angle or throw their nets. Having crossed the
+Kalongosi we were now in Lunda, or Londa.
+
+_13th November, 1867._--We saw that the Kalongosi went north till it
+met a large meadow on the shores of Moero, and, turning westwards, it
+entered there. The fishermen gave us the names of 39 species of fish
+in the Lake; they said that they never cease ascending the Kalongosi,
+though at times they are more abundant than at others: they are as
+follows.
+
+    Mondé; Mota; Lasa; Kasibé; Molobé; Lopembé; Motoya; Chipansa;
+    Mpifu; Manda; Mpala; Moombo; Mfeu; Mendé; Seusé; Kadia nkololo;
+    Etiaka; Nkomo; Lifisha; Sambamkaka; Ntondo; Sampa; Bongwé;
+    Mabanga; Kisé; Kuanya; Nkosu; Palé; Mosungu; Litembwa;
+    Mecheberé; Koninchia; Sipa; Lomembé; Molenga; Mirongé; Nfindo;
+    Pende.
+
+_14th November, 1867._--Being doubtful as to whether we were in the
+right path, I sent to a village to inquire. The headman, evidently
+one of a former Casembe school, came to us full of wrath. "What right
+had we to come that way, seeing the usual path was to our left?" He
+mouthed some sentences in the pompous Lunda style, but would not show
+us the path; so we left him, and after going through a forest of large
+trees, 4-1/2 hours south, took advantage of some huts on the Kifurwa
+River, built by bark-cloth cutters.
+
+_15th November, 1867._--Heavy rains, but we went on, and found a
+village, Kifurwa, surrounded by cassava fields, and next day crossed
+the Muatozé, 25 yards wide, and running strongly towards Moero, knee
+deep. The River Kabukwa, seven yards wide, and also knee deep, going
+to swell the Muatozé.
+
+We now crossed a brook, Chirongo, one yard wide and one deep; but our
+march was all through well-grown forest, chiefly gum-copal trees and
+bark-cloth trees. The gum-copal oozes out in abundance after or during
+the rains, from holes a quarter of an inch in diameter, made by an
+insect: it falls, and in time sinks into the soil, a supply for future
+generations. The small well-rounded features of the people of Nsama's
+country are common here, as we observe in the salt-traders and
+villages; indeed, this is the home of the Negro, and the features such
+as we see in pictures of ancient Egyptians, as first pointed out by
+Mr. Winwood Reade. We sleep by the river Mandapala, 12 yards wide, and
+knee deep.
+
+_18th November, 1867._--We rest by the Kabusi, a sluggish narrow
+rivulet. It runs into the Chungu, a quarter of a mile off. The Chungu
+is broad, but choked with trees and aquatic plants: Sapotas,
+Eschinomenas, Papyrus, &c. The free stream is 18 yards wide, and waist
+deep. We had to wade about 100 yards, thigh and waist deep, to get to
+the free stream.
+
+On this, the Chungu, Dr. Lacerda died; it is joined by the Mandapala,
+and flows a united stream into Moero. The statements of the people are
+confused, but the following is what I have gleaned from many. There
+were some Ujiji people with the Casembe of the time. The Portuguese
+and Ujijians began to fight, but Casembe said to them and the
+Portuguese, "You are all my guests, why should you fight and kill each
+other?" He then gave Lacerda ten slaves, and men to live with him and
+work at building huts, bringing firewood, water, &c. He made similar
+presents to the Ujijians, which quieted them. Lacerda was but ten days
+at Chungu when he died. The place of his death was about 9° 32', and
+not 8° 43' as in Mr. Arrowsmith's map. The feud arose from one of
+Lacerda's people killing an Ujijian at the water: this would certainly
+be a barrier to their movements.
+
+Palm-oil trees are common west of the Chungu, but none appeared east
+of it. The oil is eaten by the people, and is very nice and sweet.
+This is remarkable, as the altitude above the sea is 3350 feet.
+
+Allah is a very common exclamation among all the people west of Nsama.
+By advice of a guide whom we picked up at Kifurwa, we sent four
+fathoms of calico to apprise Casembe of our coming: the Arabs usually
+send ten fathoms; in our case it was a very superfluous notice, for
+Casembe is said to have been telegraphed to by runners at every stage
+of our progress after crossing the Kalongosi.
+
+We remain by the Chungu till Casembe sends one of his counsellors to
+guide us to his town. It has been so perpetually clouded over that we
+have been unable to make out our progress, and the dense forest
+prevented us seeing Moero as we wished: rain and thunder perpetually,
+though the rain seldom fell where we were.
+
+I saw pure white-headed swallows _(Psalidoprocne albiceps)_ skimming
+the surface of the Chungu as we crossed it. The soil is very rich.
+Casembe's ground-nuts are the largest I have seen, and so is the
+cassava. I got over a pint of palm oil for a cubit of calico.
+
+A fine young man, whose father had been the Casembe before this one,
+came to see us; he is in the background now, otherwise he would have
+conducted us to the village: a son or heir does not succeed to the
+chieftainship here.
+
+_21st November, 1867._--The River Lundé was five miles from Chungu. It
+is six yards wide where we crossed it, but larger further down;
+springs were oozing out of its bed: we then entered on a broad plain,
+covered with bush, the trees being all cleared off in building a
+village. When one Casembe dies, the man who succeeds him invariably
+removes and builds his pembwé, or court, at another place: when Dr.
+Lacerda died, the Casembe moved to near the north end of the Mofwé.
+There have been seven Casembes in all. The word means a _general_.
+
+The plain extending from the Lundé to the town of Casembe is level,
+and studded pretty thickly with red anthills, from 15 to 20 feet high.
+Casembe has made a broad path from his town to the Lundé, about a
+mile-and-a-half long, and as broad as a carriage-path. The chief's
+residence is enclosed in a wall of reeds, 8 or 9 feet high, and 300
+yards square, the gateway is ornamented with about sixty human skulls;
+a shed stands in the middle of the road before we come to the gate,
+with a cannon dressed in gaudy cloths. A number of noisy fellows
+stopped our party, and demanded tribute for the cannon; I burst
+through them, and the rest followed without giving anything: they were
+afraid of the English. The town is on the east bank of the Lakelet
+Mofwé, and one mile from its northern end. Mohamad bin Saleh now met
+us, his men firing guns of welcome; he conducted us to his shed of
+reception, and then gave us a hut till we could build one of our own.
+Mohamad is a fine portly black Arab, with a pleasant smile, and pure
+white beard, and has been more than ten years in these parts, and
+lived with four Casembes: he has considerable influence here, and also
+on Tanganyika.
+
+An Arab trader, Mohamad Bogharib, who arrived seven days before us
+with an immense number of slaves, presented a meal of vermicelli, oil,
+and honey, also cassava meal cooked, so as to resemble a sweet meat (I
+had not tasted honey or sugar since we left Lake Nyassa, in September
+1866): they had coffee too.
+
+Neither goats, sheep, nor cattle thrive here, so the people are
+confined to fowls and fish. Cassava is very extensively cultivated,
+indeed, so generally is this plant grown, that it is impossible to
+know which is town and which is country: every hut has a plantation
+around it, in which is grown cassava, Holcus sorghum, maize, beans,
+nuts.
+
+Mohamad gives the same account of the River Luapula and Lake Bemba
+that Jumbé did, but he adds, that the Chambezé, where we crossed it,
+_is_ the Luapula before it enters Bemba or Bangweolo: on coming out of
+that Lake it turns round and comes away to the north, as Luapula, and,
+without touching the Mofwé, goes into Moero; then, emerging thence at
+the north-west end it becomes Lualaba, goes into Rua, forms a lake
+there, and afterwards goes into another lake beyond Tanganyika.
+
+The Lakelet Mofwé fills during the rains and spreads westward, much
+beyond its banks. Elephants wandering in its mud flats when covered
+are annually killed in numbers: if it were connected with the Lake
+Moero the flood would run off.
+
+Many of Casembe's people appear with the ears cropped and hands lopped
+off: the present chief has been often guilty of this barbarity. One
+man has just come to us without ears or hands: he tries to excite our
+pity making a chirruping noise, by striking his cheeks with the
+stumps of his hands.
+
+A dwarf also, one Zofu, with backbone broken, comes about us: he talks
+with an air of authority, and is present at all public occurrences:
+the people seem to bear with him. He is a stranger from a tribe in the
+north, and works in his garden very briskly: his height is 3 feet 9
+inches.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[56] Chéfu amongst the Manganja. Any animal possessing strength, has
+the terminal "fu" or "vu;" thus Njobvu, an elephant; M'vu, the
+hippopotamus.--ED.
+
+[57] The natives are quick to detect a peculiarity in a man, and give
+him a name accordingly: the conquerors of a country try to forestall
+them by selecting one for themselves. Susi states that when Tipo Tipo
+stood over the spoil taken from Nsama, he gathered it closer together
+and said, "Now I am Tipo Tipo," that is, "the gatherer together of
+wealth." Kumba Kumba, of whom we shall hear much, took his name from
+the number of captives he gathered in his train under similar
+circumstances; it might be translated, "the collector of people."--ED.
+
+[58] It is on the West Coast alone that idols are really worshipped in
+Africa.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Grand reception of the traveller. Casenibe and his wife. Long
+    stay in the town. Goes to explore Moero. Despatch to Lord
+    Clarendon, with notes on recent travels. Illness at the end of
+    1867. Further exploration of Lake Moero. Flooded plains. The
+    River Luao. Visits Kabwawata. Joy of Arabs at Mohamad bin
+    Saleh's freedom. Again ill with fever. Stories of underground
+    dwellings.
+
+
+_24th November, 1867._--We were called to be presented to Casembe in a
+grand reception.
+
+The present Casembe has a heavy uninteresting countenance, without
+beard or whiskers, and somewhat of the Chinese type, and his eyes have
+an outward squint. He smiled but once during the day, and that was
+pleasant enough, though the cropped ears and lopped hands, with human
+skulls at the gate, made me indisposed to look on anything with
+favour. His principal wife came with her attendants, after he had
+departed, to look at the Englishman (Moenge-résé). She was a fine,
+tall, good-featured lady, with two spears in her hand; the principal
+men who had come around made way for her, and called on me to salute:
+I did so; but she, being forty yards off, I involuntarily beckoned her
+to come nearer: this upset the gravity of all her attendants; all
+burst into a laugh, and ran off.
+
+Casembe's smile was elicited by the dwarf making some uncouth antics
+before him. His executioner also came forward to look: he had a broad
+Lunda sword on his arm, and a curious scizzor-like instrument at his
+neck for cropping ears. On saying to him that his was nasty work, he
+smiled, and so did many who were not sure of their ears a moment: many
+men of respectability show that at some former time they have been
+thus punished. Casembe sent us another large basket of fire-dried fish
+in addition to that sent us at Chungu, two baskets of flour, one of
+dried cassava, and a pot of pombe or beer. Mohamad, who was accustomed
+to much more liberal Casembes, thinks this one very stingy, having
+neither generosity nor good sense; but as we cannot consume all he
+gives, we do not complain.
+
+_27th November, 1867._--Casembe's chief wife passes frequently to her
+plantation, carried by six, or more commonly by twelve men in a sort
+of palanquin: she has European features, but light-brown complexion. A
+number of men run before her, brandishing swords and battle-axes, and
+one beats a hollow instrument, giving warning to passengers to clear
+the way: she has two enormous pipes ready filled for smoking. She is
+very attentive to her agriculture; cassava is the chief product; sweet
+potatoes, maize, sorghum, pennisetum, millet, ground-nuts, cotton. The
+people seem more savage than any I have yet seen: they strike each
+other barbarously from mere wantonness, but they are civil enough to
+me.
+
+Mohamad bin Saleh proposes to go to Ujiji next month. He waited when
+he heard of our coming, in order that we might go together: he has a
+very low opinion of the present chief. The area which has served for
+building the chief town at different times is about ten miles in
+diameter.
+
+Mofwé is a shallow piece of water about two miles broad, four or less
+long, full of sedgy islands, the abodes of waterfowl, but some are
+solid enough to be cultivated. The bottom is mud, though sandy at the
+east shore: it has no communication with the Luapula. _(28th
+November, 1867._) The Lundé, Chungu, and Mandapala are said to join
+and flow into Moero. Fish are in great abundance (perch). On the west
+side there is a grove of palm-oil palms, and beyond west rises a long
+range of mountains of the Rua country 15 or 20 miles off.
+
+_1st December, 1867._--An old man named Pérémbé is the owner of the
+land on which Casembe has built. They always keep up the traditional
+ownership. Munongo is a brother of Pérémbé, and he owns the country
+east of the Kalongosi: if any one wished to cultivate land he would
+apply to these aboriginal chiefs for it.
+
+I asked a man from Casembe to guide me to south end of Moero, but he
+advised me not to go as it was so marshy. The Lundé forms a marsh on
+one side, and the Luapula lets water percolate through sand and mud,
+and so does the Robukwé, which makes the path often knee deep. He said
+he would send men to conduct me to Moero, a little further down, and
+added that we had got very little to eat from him, and he wanted to
+give more. Moero's south end is about 9° 30' S.
+
+Old Pérémbé is a sensible man: Mohamad thinks him 150 years old. He is
+always on the side of liberality and fairness; he says that the first
+Casembe was attracted to Mofwé by the abundance of fish in it. He has
+the idea of all men being derived from a single pair.
+
+_7th December, 1867._--It is very cloudy here; no observations can be
+made, as it clouds over every afternoon and night. _(8th and 11th
+December, 1867._) Cleared off last night, but intermittent fever
+prevented my going out.
+
+_13th December, 1867._--Set-in rains. A number of fine young girls who
+live in Casembe's compound came and shook hands in their way, which is
+to cross the right over to your left, and clasp them; then give a few
+claps with both hands, and repeat the crossed clasp: they want to
+tell their children that they have seen me.
+
+_15th December, 1867._--To-day I announced to Casembe our intention of
+going away. Two traders got the same return present from him that I
+did, namely, one goat and some fish, meal and cassava. I am always ill
+when not working; I spend my time writing letters, to be ready when we
+come to Ujiji. _(18th December, 1867._) We have been here a month, and
+I cannot get more than two lunars: I got altitudes of the meridian of
+stars north and south soon after we came, but not lunars. Casembe sent
+a big basket of fire-dried fish, two pots of beer, and a basket of
+cassava, and says we may go when we choose.
+
+_19th December, 1867._--On going to say good-bye to Casembe, he tried
+to be gracious, said that we had eaten but little of his food; yet he
+allowed us to go. He sent for a man to escort us; and on the _22nd
+December, 1867._ we went to Lundé River, crossed it, and went on to
+sleep at the Chungu, close by the place where Casembe's court stood
+when Dr. Lacerda came, for the town was moved further west as soon as
+the Doctor died. There are many palm-oil palms about, but no tradition
+exists of their introduction.
+
+_23rd December, 1867._--We crossed the Chungu. Rain from above, and
+cold and wet to the waist below, as I do not lift my shirt, because
+the white skin makes all stare. I saw black monkeys at this spot. The
+Chungu is joined by the Kaleusi and the Mandapala before it enters
+Moero. Casembe said that the Lundé ran into Mofwé; others denied this,
+and said that it formed a marsh with numbers of pools in long grass;
+but it may ooze into Mofwé thus. Casembe sent three men to guide me to
+Moero.
+
+_24th December, 1867._--Drizzly rain, and we are in a miserable spot
+by the Kabusi, in a bed of brakens four feet high. The guides won't
+stir in this weather. I gave beads to buy what could be got for
+Christmas.
+
+_25th December, 1867._--Drizzly showers every now and then; soil,
+black mud.
+
+About ten men came as guides and as a convoy of honour to Mohamad.
+
+_27th December, 1867._--In two hours we crossed Mandapala, now waist
+deep. This part was well stocked with people five years ago, but
+Casembe's severity in cropping ears and other mutilations, selling the
+children for slight offences, &c., made them all flee to neighbouring
+tribes; and now, if he sent all over the country, he could not collect
+a thousand men.
+
+[Livingstone refers (on the 15th Dec.) to some writings he was engaged
+upon, and we find one of them here in his journal which takes the form
+of a despatch to Lord Clarendon, with a note attached to the effect
+that it was not copied or sent, as he had no paper for the purpose. It
+affords an epitomised description of his late travels, and the stay at
+Casembe, and is inserted here in the place of many notes written
+daily, but which only repeat the same events and observations in a
+less readable form. It is especially valuable at this stage of his
+journal, because it treats on the whole geography of the district
+between Lakes Nyassa and Moero, with a broad handling which is
+impossible in the mere jottings of a diary.]
+
+    Town Of Casembe, _10th December, 1867._.
+
+    Lat. 9° 37' 13" South; long. 28° East.
+
+    The Right Honourable the Earl of Clarendon.
+
+    My Lord,--The first opportunity I had of sending a letter to the
+    coast occurred in February last, when I was at a village called
+    Molemba (lat. 10° 14' S.; long. 31° 46' E.), in the country
+    named Lobemba. Lobisa, Lobemba, Ulungu and Itawa-Lunda are the
+    names by which the districts of an elevated region between the
+    parallels 11° and 8° south, and meridians 28°-33° long. east,
+    are known. The altitude of this upland is from 4000 to 6000 feet
+    above the level of the sea. It is generally covered with forest,
+    well watered by numerous rivulets, and comparatively cold. The
+    soil is very rich, and yields abundantly wherever cultivated.
+    This is the watershed between the Loangwa, a tributary of the
+    Zambesi, and several rivers which flow towards the north. Of the
+    latter, the most remarkable is the Chambezé, for it assists in
+    the formation of three lakes, and changes its name three times
+    in the five or six hundred miles of its course.
+
+    On leaving Lobemba we entered Ulungu, and, as we proceeded
+    northwards, perceived by the barometers and the courses of
+    numerous rivulets, that a decided slope lay in that direction. A
+    friendly old Ulungu chief, named Kasonso, on hearing that I
+    wished to visit Lake Liemba, which lies in his country, gave his
+    son with a large escort to guide me thither; and on the 2nd
+    April last we reached the brim of the deep cup-like cavity in
+    which the Lake reposes. The descent is 2000 feet, and still the
+    surface of the water is upwards of 2500 feet above the level of
+    the sea. The sides of the hollow are very steep, and sometimes
+    the rocks run the whole 2000 feet sheer down to the water.
+    Nowhere is there three miles of level land from the foot of the
+    cliffs to the shore, but top, sides, and bottom are covered with
+    well-grown wood and grass, except where the bare rocks protrude.
+    The scenery is extremely beautiful. The "Aeasy," a stream of 15
+    yards broad and thigh deep, came down alongside our precipitous
+    path, and formed cascades by leaping 300 feet at a time. These,
+    with the bright red of the clay schists among the
+    greenwood-trees, made the dullest of my attendants pause and
+    remark with wonder. Antelopes, buffaloes, and elephants abound
+    on the steep slopes; and hippopotami, crocodiles, and fish
+    swarm in the water. Gnus are here unknown, and these animals may
+    live to old age if not beguiled into pitfalls. The elephants
+    sometimes eat the crops of the natives, and flap their big ears
+    just outside the village stockades. One got out of our way on to
+    a comparatively level spot, and then stood and roared at us.
+    Elsewhere they make clear off at sight of man.
+
+    The first village we came to on the banks of the Lake had a
+    grove of palm-oil and other trees around it. This palm tree was
+    not the dwarf species seen on Lake Nyassa. A cluster of the
+    fruit passed the door of my hut which required two men to carry
+    it. The fruit seemed quite as large as those on the West Coast.
+    Most of the natives live on two islands, where they cultivate
+    the soil, rear goats, and catch fish. The Lake is not large,
+    from 15 to 20 miles broad, and from 30 to 40 long. It is the
+    receptacle of four considerable streams, and sends out an arm
+    two miles broad to the N.N.W., it is said to Tanganyika, and it
+    may be a branch of that Lake. One of the streams, the Lonzua,
+    drives a smooth body of water into the Lake fifty yards broad
+    and ten fathoms deep, bearing on its surface duckweed and grassy
+    islands. I could see the mouths of other streams, but got near
+    enough to measure the Lofu only; and at a ford fifty miles from
+    the confluence it was 100 yards wide and waist deep in the dry
+    season.
+
+    We remained six weeks on the shores of the Lake, trying to pick
+    up some flesh and strength. A party of Arabs came into Ulungu
+    after us in search of ivory, and hearing that an Englishman had
+    preceded them, naturally inquired where I was. But our friends,
+    the Bäulungu, suspecting that mischief was meant, stoutly denied
+    that they had ever seen anything of the sort; and then became
+    very urgent that I should go on to one of the inhabited islands
+    for safety. I regret that I suspected them of intending to make
+    me a prisoner there, which they could easily have done by
+    removing the canoes; but when the villagers who deceived the
+    Arabs told me afterwards with an air of triumph how nicely they
+    had managed, I saw that they had only been anxious for my
+    safety. On three occasions the same friendly disposition was
+    shown; and when we went round the west side of the Lake in order
+    to examine the arm or branch above referred to, the headman at
+    the confluence of the Lofu protested so strongly against my
+    going--the Arabs had been fighting, and I might be mistaken for
+    an Arab, and killed--that I felt half-inclined to believe him.
+    Two Arab slaves entered the village the same afternoon in search
+    of ivory, and confirmed all he had said. We now altered our
+    course, intending to go south about the district disturbed by
+    the Arabs. When we had gone 60 miles we heard that the
+    head-quarters of the Arabs were 22 miles further. They had found
+    ivory very cheap, and pushed on to the west, till attacked by a
+    chief named, Nsama, whom they beat in his own stockade. They
+    were now at a loss which way to turn. On reaching Chitimba's
+    village (lat. 8° 57' 55" S.; long. 30° 20' E.), I found them
+    about 600 in all; and, on presenting a letter I had from the
+    Sultan of Zanzibar, was immediately supplied with provisions,
+    beads, and cloth. They approved of my plan of passing to the
+    south of Nsama's country, but advised waiting till the effects
+    of punishment, which the Bäulungu had resolved to inflict on
+    Nsama for breach of public law, were known. It had always been
+    understood that whoever brought goods into the country was to be
+    protected; and two hours after my arrival at Chitimba's, the son
+    of Kasonso, our guide, marched in with his contingent. It was
+    anticipated that Nsama might flee; if to the north, he would
+    leave me a free passage through his country; if to the south, I
+    might be saved from walking into his hands. But it turned out
+    that Nsama was anxious for peace. He had sent two men with
+    elephants' tusks to begin a negotiation; but treachery was
+    suspected, and they were shot down. Another effort was made with
+    ten goats, and repulsed. This was much to the regret of the head
+    Arabs. It was fortunate for me that the Arab goods were not all
+    sold, for Lake Moero lay in Nsama's country, and without peace
+    no ivory could be bought, nor could I reach the Lake. The
+    peace-making between the people and Arabs was, however, a
+    tedious process, occupying three and a half months--drinking
+    each other's blood. This, as I saw it west of this in 1854, is
+    not more horrible than the thirtieth dilution of deadly
+    night-shade or strychnine is in homoeopathy. I thought that had
+    I been an Arab I could easily swallow that, but not the next
+    means of cementing the peace--marrying a black wife. Nsama's
+    daughter was the bride, and she turned out very pretty. She came
+    riding pickaback on a man's shoulders: this is the most
+    dignified conveyance that chiefs and their families can command.
+    She had ten maids with her, each carrying a basket of
+    provisions, and all having the same beautiful features as
+    herself. She was taken by the principal Arab, but soon showed
+    that she preferred her father to her husband, for seeing
+    preparations made to send off to purchase ivory, she suspected
+    that her father was to be attacked, and made her escape. I then,
+    visited Nsama, and, as he objected to many people coming near
+    him, took only three of my eight attendants. His people were
+    very much afraid of fire-arms, and felt all my clothing to see
+    if I had any concealed on my person. Nsama is an old man, with
+    head and face like those sculptured on the Assyrian monuments.
+    He has been a great conqueror in his time, and with bows and
+    arrows was invincible. He is said to have destroyed many native
+    traders from Tanganyika, but twenty Arab guns made him flee from
+    his own stockade, and caused a great sensation in the country.
+    He was much taken with my hair and woollen clothing; but his
+    people, heedless of his scolding, so pressed upon us that we
+    could not converse, and, after promising to send for me to talk
+    during the night, our interview ended. He promised guides to
+    Moero, and sent us more provisions than we could carry; but
+    showed so much distrust, that after all we went without his
+    assistance.
+
+    Nsama's people are particularly handsome. Many of the men have
+    as beautiful heads as one could find in an assembly of
+    Europeans. All have very fine forms, with small hands and feet.
+    None of the West-coast ugliness, from which most of our ideas of
+    the Negroes are derived, is here to be seen. No prognathous jaws
+    nor lark-heels offended the sight. My observations deepened the
+    impression first obtained from the remarks of Winwood Reade,
+    that the typical Negro is seen in the ancient Egyptian, and not
+    in the ungainly forms; which grow up in the unhealthy swamps of
+    the West Coast. Indeed it is probable that this upland forest
+    region is the true home of the Negro. The women excited the
+    admiration of the Arabs. They have fine, small, well-formed
+    features: their great defect is one of fashion, which does not
+    extend to the next tribe; they file their teeth to points, the
+    hussies, and that makes their smile like that of the crocodile.
+
+    Nsama's country is called Itawa, and his principal town is in
+    lat. 8° 55' S., and long. 29° 21' E. From the large population
+    he had under him, Itawa is in many parts well cleared of trees
+    for cultivation, and it is lower than Ulungu, being generally
+    about 3000 feet above the sea. Long lines of tree-covered hills
+    raised some 600 or 700 feet above these valleys of denudation,
+    prevent the scenery from being monotonous. Large game is
+    abundant. Elephants, buffaloes, and zebras grazed in large
+    numbers on the long sloping, banks of a river called Chiséra, a
+    mile and a half broad. In going north we crossed this river, or
+    rather marsh, which is full of papyrus plants and reeds. Our
+    ford was an elephant's path; and the roots of the papyrus,
+    though a carpet to these animals, were sharp and sore to feet
+    usually protected by shoes, and often made us shrink and
+    flounder into holes chest deep. The Chiséra forms a larger marsh
+    west of this, and it gives off its water to the Kalongosi, a
+    feeder of Lake Moero.
+
+    The Arabs sent out men in all directions to purchase ivory; but
+    their victory over Nsama had created a panic among the tribes
+    which no verbal assurances could allay. If Nsama had been routed
+    by twenty Arab guns no one could stand before them but Casembe;
+    and Casembe had issued strict orders to his people not to allow
+    the Arabs who fought Nsama to enter his country. They did not
+    attempt to force their way, but after sending friendly messages
+    and presents to different chiefs, when these were not cordially
+    received, turned off in some other direction, and at last,
+    despairing of more ivory, turned homewards. From first to last
+    they were extremely kind to me, and showed all due respect to
+    the Sultan's letter. I am glad that I was witness to their mode
+    of trading in ivory and slaves. It formed a complete contrast to
+    the atrocious dealings of the Kilwa traders, who are supposed to
+    be, but are not, the subjects of the same Sultan. If one wished
+    to depict the slave-trade in its most attractive, or rather
+    least objectionable, form, he would accompany these gentlemen
+    subjects of the Sultan of Zanzibar. If he would describe the
+    land traffic in its most disgusting phases he would follow the
+    Kilwa traders along the road to Nyassa, or the Portuguese
+    half-castes from Tette to the River Shiré.
+
+    Keeping to the north of Nsama altogether, and moving westwards,
+    our small party reached the north end of Moero on the 8th
+    November last. There the Lake is a goodly piece of water twelve
+    or more miles broad, and flanked on the east and west by ranges
+    of lofty tree-covered mountains. The range on the west is the
+    highest, and is part of the country called Rua-Moero; it gives
+    off a river at its north-west end called Lualaba, and receives
+    the River Kalongosi (pronounced by the Arabs Karungwesi) on the
+    east near its middle, and the rivers Luapula and Rovukwé at its
+    southern extremity. The point of most interest in Lake Moero is
+    that it forms one of a chain of lakes, connected by a river some
+    500 miles in length. First of all the Chambezé rises in the
+    country of Mambwé, N.E. of Molemba. It then flows south-west and
+    west till it reaches lat. 11° S., and long. 29° E., where it
+    forms Lake Bemba or Bangweolo, emerging thence it assumes the
+    new name Luapula, and comes down here to fall into Moero. On
+    going out of this Lake it is known by the name Lualaba, as it
+    flows N.W. in Rua to form another Lake with many islands called
+    Urengé or Ulengé. Beyond this, information is not positive as to
+    whether it enters Tanganyika or another Lake beyond that. When I
+    crossed the Chambezé, the similarity of names led me to imagine
+    that this was a branch of the Zambesi. The natives said, "No.
+    This goes south-west, and forms a very large water there." But I
+    had become prepossessed with the idea that Lake Liemba was that
+    Bemba of which I had heard in 1863, and we had been so starved
+    in the south that I gladly set my face north. The river-like
+    prolongation of Liemba might go to Moero, and where I could not
+    follow the arm of Liemba. Then I worked my way to this Lake.
+    Since coming to Casembe's the testimony of natives and Arabs has
+    been so united and consistent, that I am but ten days from Lake
+    Bemba, or Bangweolo, that I cannot doubt its accuracy. I am so
+    tired of exploration without a word from home or anywhere else
+    for two years, that I must go to Ujiji on Tanganyika for letters
+    before doing anything else. The banks and country adjacent to
+    Lake Bangweolo are reported to be now very muddy and very
+    unhealthy. I have no medicine. The inhabitants suffer greatly
+    from swelled thyroid gland or Derbyshire neck and
+    elephantiasis, and this is the rainy season and very unsafe for
+    me.
+
+    When at the lower end of Moero we were so near Casembe that it
+    was thought well to ascertain the length of the Lake, and see
+    Casembe too. We came up between the double range that flanks the
+    east of the Lake; but mountains and plains are so covered with
+    well-grown forest that we could seldom see it. We reached
+    Casembe's town on the 28th November. It stands near the north
+    end of the Lakelet Mofwé; this is from one to three miles broad,
+    and some six or seven long: it is full of sedgy islands, and
+    abounds in fish. The country is quite level, but fifteen or
+    twenty miles west of Mofwé we see a long range of the mountains
+    of Rua. Between this range and Mofwé the Luapula flows past into
+    Moero, the Lake called Moero okata = the great Moero, being
+    about fifty miles long. The town of Casembe covers a mile square
+    of cassava plantations, the huts being dotted over that space.
+    Some have square enclosures of reeds, but no attempt has been
+    made at arrangement: it might be called a rural village rather
+    than a town. No estimate could be formed by counting the huts,
+    they were so irregularly planted, and hidden by cassava; but my
+    impression from other collections of huts was that the
+    population was under a thousand souls. The court or compound of
+    Casembe--some would call it a palace--is a square enclosure of
+    300 yards by 200 yards. It is surrounded by a hedge of high
+    reeds. Inside, where Casembe honoured me with a grand reception,
+    stands a gigantic hut for Casembe, and a score of small huts for
+    domestics. The Queen's hut stands behind that of the chief, with
+    a number of small huts also. Most of the enclosed space is
+    covered with a plantation of cassava, _Curcus purgaris_, and
+    cotton. Casembe sat before his hut on a equate seat placed on
+    lion and leopard skins. He was clothed in a coarse blue and
+    white Manchester print edged with red baize, and arranged in
+    large folds so as to look like a crinoline put on wrong side
+    foremost. His arms, legs and head were covered with sleeves,
+    leggings and cap made of various coloured beads in neat
+    patterns: a crown of yellow feathers surmounted his cap. Each of
+    his headmen came forward, shaded by a huge, ill-made umbrella,
+    and followed by his dependants, made obeisance to Casembe, and
+    sat down on his right and left: various bands of musicians did
+    the same. When called upon I rose and bowed, and an old
+    counsellor, with his ears cropped, gave the chief as full an
+    account as he had been able to gather during our stay of the
+    English in general, and my antecedents in particular. My having
+    passed through Lunda to the west of Casembe, and visited chiefs
+    of whom he scarcely knew anything, excited most attention. He
+    then assured me that I was welcome to his country, to go where I
+    liked, and do what I chose. We then went (two boys carrying his
+    train behind him) to an inner apartment, where the articles of
+    my present were exhibited in detail. He had examined them
+    privately before, and we knew that he was satisfied. They
+    consisted of eight yards of orange-coloured serge, a large
+    striped tablecloth; another large cloth made at Manchester in
+    imitation of West Coast native manufacture, which never fails to
+    excite the admiration of Arabs and natives, and a large richly
+    gilded comb for the back hair, such as ladies wore fifty years
+    ago: this was given to me by a friend at Liverpool, and as
+    Casembe and Nsama's people cultivate the hair into large knobs
+    behind, I was sure that this article would tickle the fancy.
+    Casembe expressed himself pleased, and again bade me welcome.
+
+    I had another interview, and tried to dissuade him from selling
+    his people as slaves. He listened awhile, then broke off into a
+    tirade on the greatness of his country, his power and dominion,
+    which Mohamad bin Saleh, who has been here for ten years,
+    turned into ridicule, and made the audience laugh by telling how
+    other Lunda chiefs had given me oxen and sheep, while Casembe
+    had only a poor little goat and some fish to bestow. He insisted
+    also that there were but two sovereigns in the world, the Sultan
+    of Zanzibar and Victoria. When we went on a third occasion to
+    bid Casembe farewell, he was much less distant, and gave me the
+    impression that I could soon become friends with him; but he has
+    an ungainly look, and an outward squint in each eye. A number of
+    human skulls adorned the entrance to his courtyard; and great
+    numbers of his principal men having their ears cropped, and some
+    with their hands lopped off, showed his barbarous way of making
+    his ministers attentive and honest. I could not avoid indulging
+    a prejudice against him.
+
+    The Portuguese visited Casembe long ago; but as each new Casembe
+    builds a new town, it is not easy to fix on the exact spot to
+    which strangers came. The last seven Casembes have had their
+    towns within seven miles of the present one. Dr. Lacerda,
+    Governor of Tette, on the Zambesi, was the only visitor of
+    scientific attainments, and he died at the rivulet called
+    Chungu, three or four miles from this. The spot is called
+    Nshinda, or Inchinda, which the Portuguese wrote Lucenda or
+    Ucenda. The latitude given is nearly fifty miles wrong, but the
+    natives say that he lived only ten days after his arrival, and
+    if, as is probable, his mind was clouded with fever when he last
+    observed, those who have experienced what that is will readily
+    excuse any mistake he may have made. His object was to
+    accomplish a much-desired project of the Portuguese to have an
+    overland communication between their eastern and western
+    possessions. This was never made by any of the Portuguese
+    nation; but two black traders succeeded partially with a part of
+    the distance, crossing once from Cassangé, in Angola, to Tette
+    on the Zambesi, and returning with a letter from the Governor
+    of Mosambique. It is remarkable that this journey, which was
+    less by a thousand miles than from sea to sea and back again,
+    should have for ever quenched all white Portuguese aspirations
+    for an overland route.
+
+    The different Casembes visited by the Portuguese seem to have
+    varied much in character and otherwise. Pereira, the first
+    visitor, said (I quote from memory) that Casembe had 20,000
+    trained soldiers, watered his streets daily, and sacrificed
+    twenty human victims every day. I could hear nothing of human
+    sacrifices now, and it is questionable if the present Casembe
+    could bring a thousand stragglers into the field. When he
+    usurped power five years ago, his country was densely peopled;
+    but he was so severe in his punishments--cropping the ears,
+    lopping off the hands, and other mutilations, selling the
+    children for very slight offences, that his subjects gradually
+    dispersed themselves in the neighbouring countries beyond his
+    power. This is the common mode by which tyranny is cured in
+    parts like these, where fugitives are never returned. The
+    present Casembe is very poor. When he had people who killed
+    elephants he was too stingy to share the profits of the sale of
+    the ivory with his subordinates. The elephant hunters have
+    either left him or neglect hunting, so he has now no tusks to
+    sell to the Arab traders who come from Tanganyika. Major
+    Monteiro, the third Portuguese who visited Casembe, appears to
+    have been badly treated by this man's predecessor, and no other
+    of his nation has ventured so far since. They do not lose much
+    by remaining away, for a little ivory and slaves are all that
+    Casembe ever can have to sell. About a month to the west of this
+    the people of Katanga smelt copper-ore (malachite) into large
+    bars shaped like the capital letter I. They may be met with of
+    from 50 lbs. to 100 lbs., weight all over the country, and the
+    inhabitants draw the copper into wire for armlets and leglets.
+    Gold is also found at Katanga, and specimens were lately sent
+    to the Sultan of Zanzibar.
+
+    As we come down from the watershed towards Tanganyika we enter an
+    area of the earth's surface still disturbed by internal igneous
+    action. A hot fountain in the country of Nsama is often used to
+    boil cassava and maize. Earthquakes are by no means rare. We
+    experienced the shock of one while at Chitimba's village, and
+    they extend as far as Casembe's. I felt as if afloat, and as huts
+    would not fall there was no sense of danger; some of them that
+    happened at night set the fowls a cackling. The most remarkable
+    effect of this one was that it changed the rates of the
+    chronometers; no rain fell after it. No one had access to the
+    chronometers but myself, and, as I never heard of this effect
+    before, I may mention that one which lost with great regularity
+    1.5 sec. daily, lost 15 sec.; another; whose rate since leaving
+    the coast was 15 sec., lost 40 sec.; and a third, which gained 6
+    sec. daily, stopped altogether. Some of Nsama's people ascribed
+    the earthquakes to the hot fountain, because it showed unusual
+    commotion on these occasions; another hot fountain exists near
+    Tanganyika than Nsama's, and we passed one on the shores of
+    Moero.
+
+    We could not understand why the natives called Moero much larger
+    than Tanganyika till we saw both. The greater Lake lies in a
+    comparatively narrow trough, with highland on each side, which
+    is always visible; but when we look at Moero, to the south of
+    the mountains of Rua on the west, we have nothing but an
+    apparently boundless sea horizon. The Luapula and Rovukwé form a
+    marsh at the southern extremity, and Casembe dissuaded me from
+    entering it, but sent a man to guide me to different points of
+    Moero further down. From the heights at which the southern
+    portions were seen, it must be from forty to sixty miles broad.
+    From the south end of the mountains of Rua (9° 4' south lat.) it
+    is thirty-three miles broad. No native ever attempts to cross
+    it even there. Its fisheries are of great value to the
+    inhabitants, and the produce is carried to great distances.
+
+    Among the vegetable products of this region, that which
+    interested me most was a sort of potato. It does not belong to
+    the solanaceous, but to the papilionaceous or pea family, and
+    its flowers have a delightful fragrance. It is easily propagated
+    by small cuttings of the root or stalk. The tuber is oblong,
+    like our kidney potato, and when boiled tastes exactly like our
+    common potato. When unripe it has a slight degree of bitterness,
+    and it is believed to be wholesome; a piece of the root eaten
+    raw is a good remedy in nausea. It is met with on the uplands
+    alone, and seems incapable of bearing much heat, though I kept
+    some of the roots without earth in a box, which was carried in
+    the sun almost daily for six months, without destroying their
+    vegetative power.
+
+    It is remarkable that in all the central regions of Africa
+    visited, the cotton is that known as the Pernambuco variety. It
+    has a long strong staple, seeds clustered together, and adherent
+    to each other. The bushes eight or ten feet high have woody
+    stems, and the people make strong striped black and white shawls
+    of the cotton.
+
+    It was pleasant to meet the palm-oil palm (_Elais Guineaensis_)
+    at Casembe's, which is over 3000 feet above the level of the
+    sea. The oil is sold cheap, but no tradition exists of its
+    introduction into the country.
+
+    I send no sketch of the country, because I have not yet passed
+    over a sufficient surface to give a connected view of the whole
+    watershed of this region, and I regret that I cannot recommend
+    any of the published maps I have seen as giving even a tolerable
+    idea of the country. One bold constructor of maps has tacked on
+    200 miles to the north-west end of Lake Nyassa, a feat which no
+    traveller has ever ventured to imitate. Another has placed a
+    river in the same quarter running 3000 or 4000 feet up hill,
+    and named it the "NEW ZAMBESI," because I suppose the old
+    Zambesi runs down hill. I have walked over both these mental
+    abortions, and did not know that I was walking on water till I
+    saw them in the maps.
+
+[The despatch breaks off at this point. The year concludes with health
+impaired. As time goes on we shall see how ominous the conviction was
+which made him dread the swamps of Bangweolo.]
+
+_28-31st December, 1867._--We came on to the rivulet Chirongo, and
+then to the Kabukwa, where I was taken ill. Heavy rains kept the
+convoy back. I have had nothing but coarsely-ground sorghum meal for
+some time back, and am weak; I used to be the first in the line of
+march, and am now the last; Mohamad presented a meal of finely-ground
+porridge and a fowl, and I immediately felt the difference, though I
+was not grumbling at my coarse dishes. It is well that I did not go to
+Bangweolo Lake, for it is now very unhealthy to the natives, and I
+fear that without medicine continual wettings by fording rivulets
+might have knocked me up altogether. As I have mentioned, the people
+suffer greatly from swelled thyroid gland or Derbyshire neck and
+Elephantiasis scroti.
+
+_1st January, 1868._--Almighty Father, forgive the sins of the past
+year for Thy Son's sake. Help me to be more profitable during this
+year. If I am to die this year prepare me for it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I bought five hoes at two or three yards of calico each: they are
+13-1/2 inches by 6-1/2 inches; many are made in Casembe's country, and
+this is the last place we can find them: when we come into Buiré we
+can purchase a good goat for one; one of my goats died and the other
+dried up. I long for others, for milk is the most strengthening food
+I can get.
+
+My guide to Moero came to-day, and I visited the Lake several times,
+so as to get a good idea of its size. The first fifteen miles in the
+north are from twelve or more to thirty-three miles broad. The great
+mass of the Rua Mountains confines it. Thus in a clear day a lower
+range is seen continued from the high point of the first mass away to
+the west south-west, this ends, and sea horizon is alone visible away
+to the south and west; from the height we viewed it at, the width must
+be over forty, perhaps sixty miles. A large island, called Kirwa,[59]
+is situated between the Mandapala and Kabukwa Rivers, but nearest to
+the other shore. The natives never attempt to cross any part of the
+Lake south of this Kirwa. Land could not be seen with a good glass on
+the clearest day we had. I can understand why the natives pronounced
+Moero to be larger than Tanganyika: in the last named they see the
+land always on both sides; it is like a vast trough flanked with
+highlands, but at Moero nothing but sea horizon can be seen when one
+looks south-west of the Rua Mountains.
+
+At the Kalongosi meadow one of Mohamad's men shot a buffalo, and he
+gave me a leg of the good beefy flesh. Our course was slow, caused
+partly by rains, and partly by waiting for the convoy. The people at
+Kalongosi were afraid to ferry us or any of his people in the convoy
+out of Casembe's country; but at last we gave a good fee, and their
+scruples yielded: they were influenced also by seeing other villagers
+ready to undertake the job; the latter nearly fought over us on seeing
+that their neighbours got all the fare.
+
+We then came along the Lake, and close to its shores. The moisture
+caused a profusion of gingers, ferns, and tropical forest: buffaloes,
+zebras and elephants are numerous, and the villagers at Chukosi's,
+where we slept, warned us against lions and leopards.
+
+_12th January, 1868._--Sunday at Karembwé's village. The mountains
+east of him are called Makunga. We went yesterday to the shore, and by
+protraction Rua point was distant thirty-three miles. Karembwé sent
+for us, to have an audience; he is a large man with a gruff voice, but
+liked by his people and by strangers. I gave him a cloth, and he gave
+me a goat. The enthusiasm with which I held on to visit Moero had
+communicated itself to Tipo Tipo and Syde bin Alle, for they followed
+me up to this place to see the Lake, and remained five days while we
+were at Casembe's. Other Arabs, or rather Suahelis, must have seen it,
+but never mentioned it as anything worth looking at; and it was only
+when all hope of ivory was gone that these two headmen found time to
+come. There is a large population here.
+
+_13th January, 1868._--Heavy rains. Karembé mentioned a natural
+curiosity as likely to interest me: a little rivulet, Chipamba, goes
+some distance underground, but is uninteresting.
+
+Next day we crossed the Vuna, a strong torrent, which, has a hot
+fountain close by the ford, in which maize and cassava may be boiled.
+A large one in Nsama's country is used in the same way, maize and
+cassava being tied to a string and thrown in to be cooked: some
+natives believe that earthquakes are connected with its violent
+ebullitions. We crossed the Katétté, another strong torrent, before
+reaching the north end of Moero, where we slept in some travellers'
+huts.
+
+Leaving the Lake, and going north, we soon got on to a plain flooded
+by the Luao. We had to wade through very adhesive black mud, generally
+ankle deep, and having many holes in it much deeper: we had four
+hours of this, and then came to the ford of the Luao itself. We waded
+up a branch of it waist deep for at least a quarter of a mile, then
+crossed a narrow part by means of a rude bridge of branches and trees,
+of about forty yards width. The Luao, in spreading over the plains,
+confers benefits on the inhabitants, though I could not help
+concluding it imparts disease too, for the black mud in places smells
+horribly. Great numbers of Siluridae, chiefly _Clarias Capensis_,
+often three feet in length, spread over the flooded portions of the
+country, eating the young of other fishes, and insects, lizards, and
+worms, killed by the waters. The people make weirs for them, and as
+the waters retire kill large numbers, which they use as a relish to
+their farinaceous food.
+
+_16th January, 1868._--After sleeping near the Luao we went on towards
+the village, in which Mohamad's son lives. It is on the Kakoma Eiver,
+and is called Kabwabwata, the village of Mubao. In many of the
+villages the people shut their stockades as soon as we appear, and
+stand bows and arrows in hand till we have passed: the reason seems to
+be that the slaves when out of sight of their masters carry things
+with a high hand, demanding food and other things as if they had power
+and authority. One slave stole two tobacco pipes yesterday in passing
+through a village; the villagers complained to me when I came up, and
+I waited till Mohamad came and told him; we then went forward, the men
+keeping close to me till we got the slave and the pipes. They stole
+cassava as we went along, but this could scarcely be prevented. They
+laid hold of a plant an inch-and-a-half thick, and tore it out of the
+soft soil with its five or six roots as large as our largest carrots,
+stowed the roots away in their loads, and went on eating them; but the
+stalk thrown among those still growing shows the theft. The raw roots
+are agreeable and nutritious. No great harm is done by this, for the
+gardens are so large, but it inspires distrust in the inhabitants, and
+makes it dangerous for Arabs to travel not fully manned and armed.
+
+On reaching the village Kabwabwata a great demonstration was made by
+Mohamad's Arab dependants and Wanyamwesi: the women had their faces
+all smeared with pipeclay, and lullilooed with all their might. When
+we came among the huts, they cast handfuls of soil on their heads,
+while the men fired off their guns as fast as they could load them.
+Those connected with Mohamad ran and kissed his hands, and fired, till
+the sound of shouting, lullilooing, clapping of hands, and shooting
+was deafening: Mohamad was quite overcome by this demonstration, and
+it was long before he could still them.
+
+On the way to this village from the south we observed an extensive
+breadth of land, under ground-nuts which are made into oil: a large
+jar of this is sold for a hoe. The ground-nuts were now in flower, and
+green maize ready to be eaten. People all busy planting,
+transplanting, or weeding; they plant cassava on mounds prepared for
+it, on which they have sown beans, sorghum, maize, pumpkins: these
+ripen, and leave the cassava a free soil. The sorghum or dura is sown
+thickly, and when about a foot high--if the owner has been able to
+prepare the soil elsewhere--it is transplanted, a portion of the
+leaves being cut off to prevent too great evaporation and the death of
+the plant.
+
+_17th January, 1868._--The Wanyamwesi and people of Garaganza say that
+we have thirteen days' march from this to the Tanganyika Lake. It is
+often muddy, and many rivulets are to be crossed.
+
+Mohamad is naturally anxious to stay a little while with his son, for
+it is a wet season, and the mud is disagreeable to travel over: it is
+said to be worse near Ujiji: he cooks small delicacies for me with the
+little he has, and tries to make me comfortable. Vinegar is made from
+bananas, and oil from ground-nuts. I am anxious to be off, but
+chiefly to get news.
+
+I find that many Unyamwesi people are waiting here, on account of the
+great quantity of rainwater in front: it would be difficult, they say,
+to get canoes on Tanganyika, as the waves are now large.
+
+_24th January, 1868._--Two of Mohamad Bogharib's people came from
+Casembe's to trade here, and a body of Syde bin Habib's people also
+from Garaganza, near Kazé, they report the flooded lands on this side
+of Lake Tanganyika as waist and chest deep. Bin Habib, being at
+Katanga, will not stir till the rains are over, and I fear we are
+storm-stayed till then too. The feeders of the Marungu are not
+fordable just now, and no canoes are to be had.
+
+_26th and 27th January, 1868._--I am ill with fever, as I always am
+when stationary.
+
+_28th January, 1868._--Better, and thankful to Him of the Greatest
+Name. We must remain; it is a dry spot, and favourable for
+ground-nuts. _Hooping-cough_ here.
+
+_30th January, 1868._--The earth cooled by the rain last night sets
+all to transplanting dura or sorghum; they cut the leaves till only
+about eighteen inches of them are left, but it grows all the better
+for the change of place.
+
+Mohamad believes that Tanganyika flows through Rusizi to Lohindé.
+(Chuambo.)
+
+Seyd Seyd is said to have been the first Arab Sultan who traded, and
+Seyed Majid follows the example of his father, and has many Arab
+traders in his employment. He lately sent eight buffaloes to Mtéza,
+king of Uganda, son of Sunna, by way of increasing his trade, but if
+is not likely that he will give up the lucrative trade in ivory and
+slaves.
+
+Susi bought a hoe with a little gunpowder, then a cylinder of dura,
+three feet long by two feet in diameter, for the hoe: it is at least
+one hundredweight.
+
+Stone underground houses are reported in Rua, but whether natural or
+artificial Mohamad could not say. If a present is made to the Rua
+chiefs they never obstruct passengers.
+
+Chikosi, at whose village we passed a night, near Kalongosi, and
+Chiputa are both dead.
+
+The Mofwé fills during the greater rains, and spreads over a large
+district; elephants then wander in its marshes, and are killed easily
+by people in canoes: this happens every year, and Mohamad Bogharib
+waits now for this ivory.
+
+_7th to 21st February, 1868._--On inquiring of men who lave seen the
+underground houses in Rua, I find that they are very extensive,
+ranging along mountain sides for twenty miles, and in one part a
+rivulet flows inside. In some cases the doorways are level with the
+country adjacent: in others, ladders are used to climb up to them;
+inside they are said to be very large, and not the work of men, but of
+God. The people have plenty of fowls, and they too obtain shelter in
+these Troglodyte habitations.
+
+_23rd February, 1868._--I was visited by an important chief called
+Chapé, who said that he wanted to make friends with the English. He,
+Chisapi, Sama, Muabo, Karembwé, are of one tribe or family, the Oanza:
+he did not beg anything, and promised to send me a goat.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[59] Kirwa and its various corruptions, such as Shirwa, Chirua, and
+Kiroa, perpetually recur in Africa, and would almost seem to stand for
+"the island."--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    Riot in the camp. Mohamad's account of his long imprisonment.
+    Superstitions about children's teeth. Concerning dreams. News of
+    Lake Chowambé. Life of the Arab slavers. The Katanga gold
+    supply. Muabo. Ascent of the Rua Mountains. Syde bin Habib.
+    Birthday 19th March, 1868. Hostility of Mpwéto. Contemplates
+    visiting Lake Bemba. Nile sources. Men desert. The shores of
+    Moero. Visits Fungafunga. Beturn to Casembe's. Obstructiveness
+    of "Cropped-ears." Accounts of Pereira and Dr. Lacerda. Major
+    Monteiro. The line of Casembe's. Casembe explains the connection
+    of the Lakes and the Luapula. Queen Moäri. Arab sacrifice.
+    Kapika gets rid of his wife.
+
+_24th February, 1868._--Some slaves who came with Mohamad Bogharib's
+agent, abused my men this morning, as bringing unclean meat into the
+village to sell, though it had been killed by a man of the Wanyamwesi.
+They called out, "Kaffir, Kaffir!" and Susi, roused by this, launched
+forth with a stick; the others joined in the row, and the offenders
+were beat off, but they went and collected all their number and
+renewed the assault. One threw a heavy block of wood and struck Simon
+on the head, making him quite insensible and convulsed for some time.
+He has three wounds on the head, which may prove serious. This is the
+first outburst of Mohamadan bigotry we have met, and by those who know
+so little of the creed that it is questionable if one of them can
+repeat the formula: "La illaha illa lahu Mohamad Rasulela salla lahu,
+a leihi oa Salama." Simon recovered, but Gallahs are in general not
+strong.
+
+_25th February, 1868._--Mohamad called on me this morning to apologise
+for the outrage of yesterday, but no one was to blame except the
+slaves, and I wanted no punishment inflicted if they were cautioned
+for the future. It seems, plain that if they do not wish to buy the
+unclean meat they can let it alone,--no harm is done. The Wanyamwesi
+kill for all, and some Mohamadans say that they won't eat of it, but
+their wives and people do eat it privately.
+
+I asked Mohamad to-day if it were true that he was a prisoner at
+Casembe's. He replied, "Quite so." Some Garaganza people, now at
+Katanga, fought with Casembe, and Mohamad was suspected of being
+connected with them. Casembe attacked his people, and during the
+turmoil a hundred frasilahs of copper were stolen from him, and many
+of his people killed. Casembe kept him a prisoner till sixty of his
+people were either killed or died, among these Mohamad's eldest son:
+he was thus reduced to poverty. He gave something to Casembe to allow
+him to depart, and I suspect that my Sultan's letter had considerable
+influence in inducing Casembe to accede to his request, for he
+repeated again and again in my hearing that he must pay respect to my
+letter, and see me safe at least as far as Ujiji. Mohamad says that he
+will not return to Casembe again, but will begin to trade with some
+other chief: it is rather hard for a man at his age to begin _de
+novo_. He is respected among the Arabs, who pronounce him to be a good
+man. He says that he has been twenty-two years in Africa, and never
+saw an outburst like that of yesterday among the Wanyamwesi: it is,
+however, common for the people at Ujiji to drink palm toddy, and then
+have a general row in the bazaar, but no bad feeling exists next day.
+
+If a child cuts the upper front teeth before the lower, it is killed,
+as unlucky: this is a widely-spread superstition. When I was amongst
+the Makololo in 1859 one of Sekelétu's wives would not allow her
+servant's child to be killed for this, but few would have the courage
+to act in opposition to public feeling as she did. In Casembe's
+country if a child is seen to turn from one side to the other in
+sleep it is killed. They say of any child who has what they consider
+these defects "he is an Arab child," because the Arabs have none of
+this class of superstitions, and should any Arab be near they give the
+child to him: it would bring ill-luck, misfortunes, "milando," or
+guilt, to the family. These superstitions may account for the
+readiness with which one tribe parted with their children to Speke's
+followers. Mohamad says that these children must have been taken in
+war, as none sell their own offspring.
+
+If Casembe dreams of any man twice or three times he puts the man to
+death, as one who is practising secret arts against his life: if any
+one is pounding or cooking food for him he must preserve the strictest
+silence; these and other things show extreme superstition and
+degradation.
+
+During, his enforced detention Mohamad's friends advised him to leave
+Casembe by force, offering to aid him with their men, but he always
+refused. His father was the first to open this country to trade with
+the Arabs, and all his expenses while so doing were borne by himself;
+but Mohamad seems to be a man of peace, and unwilling to break the
+appearance of friendship with the chiefs. He thinks that this Casembe
+poisoned his predecessor: he certainly killed his wife's mother, a
+queen, that she might be no obstacle to him in securing her daughter.
+
+We are waiting in company with a number of Wanyamwesi for the
+cessation of the rains, which have flooded the country between this
+and Tanganyika. If there were much slope this water would flow off:
+this makes me suspect that Tanganyika is not so low as Speke's
+measurement. The Arabs are positive that water flows from that Lake to
+the Victoria Nyanza, and assert that Dagara, the father of Rumanyika,
+was anxious to send canoes from his place to Ujiji, or, as some say,
+to dig a canal to Ujiji. The Wanyamwesi here support themselves by
+shooting buffaloes, at a place two days distant, and selling the meat
+for grain and cassava: no sooner is it known that an animal is killed,
+than the village women crowd in here, carrying their produce to
+exchange it for meat, which they prefer to beads or anything else.
+Their farinaceous food creates a great craving for flesh: were my
+shoes not done I would go in for buffaloes too.
+
+A man from the upper part of Tanganyika gives the same account of the
+river from Rusisi that Burton and Speke received when they went to its
+mouth. He says that the water of the Lake goes up some distance, but
+is met by Rusisi water, and driven back thereby. The Lake water, he
+adds, finds an exit northwards and eastwards by several small rivers
+which would admit small canoes only. They pour into Lake
+Chowambé--probably that discovered by Mr. Baker. This Chowambé is in
+Hundi, the country of cannibals, but the most enlightened informants
+leave the impression on the mind of groping in the dark: it may be all
+different when we come to see it.
+
+The fruit of the palm, which yields palm-oil, is first of all boiled,
+then pounded in a mortar, then put into hot or boiling water, and the
+oil skimmed off. The palm-oil is said to be very abundant at Ujiji, as
+much as 300 gallons being often brought into the bazaar for sale in
+one morning; the people buy it eagerly for cooking purposes. Mohamad
+says that the Island of Pemba, near Zanzibar, contains many of these
+palms, but the people are ignorant of the mode of separating the oil
+from the nut: they call the palm Nkoma at Casembe's, and Chikichi at
+Zanzibar.[60]
+
+No better authority for what has been done or left undone by
+Mohamadans in this country can be found than Mohamad bin Saleh, for he
+is very intelligent, and takes an interest in all that happens, and
+his father was equally interested in this country's affairs. He
+declares that no attempt was ever made by Mohamadans to proselytize
+the Africans: they teach their own children to read the Koran, but
+them only; it is never translated, and to servants who go to the
+Mosque it is all dumb show. Some servants imbibe Mohamadan bigotry
+about eating, but they offer no prayers. Circumcision, to make
+_halel_, or fit to slaughter the animals for their master, is the
+utmost advance any have made. As the Arabs in East Africa never feel
+themselves called on to propagate the doctrines of Islam, among the
+heathen Africans, the statement of Captain Burton that they would make
+better missionaries to the Africans than Christians, because they
+would not insist on the abandonment of polygamy, possesses the same
+force as if he had said Mohamadans would catch more birds than
+Christians, because they would put salt on their tails. The
+indispensable requisite or qualification for any kind of missionary is
+that he have some wish to proselytize: this the Arabs do not possess
+in the slightest degree.
+
+As they never translate the Koran, they neglect the best means of
+influencing the Africans, who invariably wish to understand what they
+are about. When we were teaching adults the alphabet, they felt it a
+hard task. "Give me medicine, I shall drink it to make me understand
+it," was their earnest entreaty. When they have advanced so far as to
+form clear conceptions of Old Testament and Gospel histories, they
+tell them to their neighbours; and, on visiting distant tribes, feel
+proud to show how much they know: in this way the knowledge of
+Christianity becomes widely diffused. Those whose hatred to its
+self-denying doctrines has become developed by knowledge, propagate
+slanders; but still they speak of Christianity, and awaken attention.
+The plan, therefore, of the Christian missionary in imparting
+knowledge is immeasurably superior to that of the Moslem in dealing
+with dumb show. I have, however, been astonished to see that none of
+the Africans imitate the Arab prayers: considering their great
+reverence of the Deity, it is a wonder that they do not learn to
+address prayers to Him except on very extraordinary occasions.
+
+My remarks referring to the education by Mohamadans do not refer to
+the Suahelis, for they teach their children to read, and even send
+them to school. They are the descendants of Arab and African women and
+inhabit the coast line. Although they read, they understand very
+little Arabic beyond the few words which have been incorporated into
+Suaheli. The establishment of Moslem missions among the heathen is
+utterly unknown, and this is remarkable, because the Wanyamwesi, for
+instance, are very friendly with the Arabs--are great traders, too,
+like them, and are constantly employed as porters and native traders,
+being considered very trustworthy. They even acknowledge Seyed Majid's
+authority. The Arabs speak of all the Africans as _"Gumu_" that is
+hard or callous to the Mohamadan religion.
+
+Some believe that Kilimanjaro Mountain has mummies, as in Egypt, and
+that Moses visited it of old.
+
+Mungo Park mentions that he found the Africans in the far interior of
+the west in possession of the stories of Joseph and his brethren, and
+others. They probably got them from the Koran, as verbally explained
+by some liberal Mullah, and showed how naturally they spread any new
+ideas they obtained: they were astonished to find that Park knew the
+stories.
+
+The people at Katanga are afraid to dig for the gold in their country
+because they believe that it has been hidden where it is by "Ngolu,"
+who is the owner of it. The Arabs translate Ngolu by Satan: it means
+Mézimo, or departed spirits, too. The people are all oppressed by
+their superstitions; the fear of death is remarkably strong. The
+Wagtails are never molested, because, if they were killed, death
+would visit the village; this too is the case with the small Whydah
+birds, the fear of death in the minds of the people saves them from
+molestation. But why should we be so prone to criticise? A remnant of
+our own superstitions is seen in the prejudice against sitting down
+thirteen to dinner, spilling the salt, and not throwing a little of it
+over the left shoulder. Ferdinand I., the King of Naples, in passing
+through the streets, perpetually put one hand into his pockets to
+cross the thumb over the finger in order to avert the influence of the
+evil eye!
+
+On the 6th, Muabo, the great chief of these parts, came to call on
+Mohamad: several men got up and made some antics before him, then
+knelt down and did obeisance, then Muabo himself jumped about a
+little, and all applauded. He is a good-natured-looking man, fond of a
+joke, and always ready with a good-humoured smile: he was praised very
+highly, Mpwéto was nothing to Muabo mokolu, the great Muabo; and he
+returned the praise by lauding Tipo Tipo and Mpamari, Mohamad's native
+name, which means, "Give me wealth, or goods." Mohamad made a few of
+the ungainly antics like the natives, and all were highly pleased, and
+went off rejoicing.
+
+Some Arabs believe that a serpent on one of the islands in the Nyanza
+Lake has the power of speaking, and is the same that beguiled Eve. It
+is a crime at Ujiji to kill a serpent, even though it enters a house
+and kills a kid! The native name, for the people of Ujiji is Wayeiyé,
+the very same as the people on the Zouga, near Lake Ngami. They are
+probably an offshoot from Ujiji.[61]
+
+There are underground stone houses in Kabiuré, in the range called
+Kakoma, which is near to our place of detention. _15th March,
+1868._--The roots of the Nyumbo or Noombo open in four or five months
+from the time of planting, those planted by me on the 6th February
+have now stalks fifteen inches long. The root is reported to be a very
+wholesome food, never disagreeing with the stomach; and the raw root
+is an excellent remedy in obstinate vomiting and nausea; four or five
+tubers are often given by one root, in Marungu they attain a size of
+six inches in length by two in diameter.
+
+_16th March, 1868._--We started for Mpwéto's village, which is
+situated on the Lualaba, and in our course crossed the Lokinda, which
+had a hundred yards of flood water on each side of it. The river
+itself is forty yards wide, with a rude bridge over it, as it flows
+fast away into Moero.
+
+Next day we ascended the Rua Mountains, and reached the village of
+Mpwéto, situated in a valley between two ridges, about one mile from
+the right bank of the Lualaba, where it comes through the mountains.
+It then flows about two miles along the base of a mountain lying east
+and west before it begins to make northing: its course is reported to
+be very winding, this seems additional evidence that Tanganyika is not
+in a depression of only 1844 feet above the sea, otherwise the water
+of Lualaba would flow faster and make a straighter channel. It is said
+to flow into the Lufira, and that into Tanganyika.
+
+_18th March, 1868._--On reaching Mpwéto's yesterday we were taken up
+to the house of Syde bin Habib, which is built on a ridge overhanging
+the chiefs village, a square building of wattle and plaster, and a mud
+roof to prevent it being fired by an enemy. It is a very pretty spot
+among the mountains. Sariama is Bin Habib's agent, and he gave us a
+basket of flour and leg of kid. I sent a message to Mpwéto, which he
+politely answered by saying that he had no food ready in his village,
+but if we waited two days he would have some prepared, and would then
+see us. He knew what we should give him, and he need not tell us I
+met a man from Seskéké, left sick at Kirwa by Bin Habib and now with
+him here.
+
+A very beautiful young woman came to look at us, perfect in every way,
+and nearly naked, but unconscious of indecency; a very Venus in black.
+The light-grey, red-tailed parrot seen on the West Coast is common in
+Rua, and tamed by the natives.[62]
+
+_19th March, 1868._[63]--(Grant, Lord, grace to love Thee more and
+serve Thee better.)
+
+The favourite son of Mpwéto called on us; his father is said to do
+nothing without consulting him; but he did not seem to be endowed with
+much wisdom.
+
+_20th and 21st March, 1868._--Our interview was put off; and then a
+sight of the cloth we were to give was required. I sent a good large
+cloth, and explained that we were nearly out of goods now, having been
+travelling two years, and were going to Ujiji to get more. Mpwéto had
+prepared a quantity of pombe, a basket of meal, and a goat; and when
+he looked at them and the cloth, he seemed to feel that it would be a
+poor bargain, so he sent to say that we had gone to Casembe and given
+him many cloths, and then to Muabo, and if I did not give another
+cloth he would not see me. "He had never slept with only one cloth."
+"I had put medicine on this one to kill him, and must go away."
+
+It seems he was offended because we went to his great rival, Muabo,
+before visiting him. He would not see Syde bin Habib for eight days;
+and during that time was using charms to try if it would be safe to
+see him at all: on the ninth day he peeped past a door for some time
+to see if Bin Habib were a proper person, and then came out: he is
+always very suspicious.
+
+At last he sent an order to us to go away, and if we did not move, he
+would come with all his people and drive us off. Sariamo said if he
+were not afraid for Syde bin Habib's goods, he would make a stand
+against Mpwéto; but I had no wish to stay or to quarrel with a
+worthless chief, and resolved to go next day. (_24th March._) He
+abused a native trader with his tongue for coming to trade, and sent
+him away too. We slept again at our half-way village, Kapemba, just as
+a party of salt-traders from Rua came into it: they were tall,
+well-made men, and rather dark.
+
+_25th March, 1868._--Reached Kabwabwata at noon, and were welcomed by
+Mohamad and all the people. His son, Sheikh But, accompanied us; but
+Mohamad told us previously that it was likely Mpwéto would refuse to
+see us.
+
+The water is reported to be so deep in front that it is impossible to
+go north: the Wanyamwesi, who are detained here as well as we, say it
+is often more than a man's depth, and there are no canoes. They would
+not stop here if a passage home could be made. I am thinking of going
+to Lake Bemba, because at least two months must be passed here still
+before a passage can be made; but my goods are getting done, and I
+cannot give presents to the chiefs on our way.
+
+This Lake has a sandy, not muddy bottom, as we were at first informed,
+and there are four islands in it, one, the Bangweolo, is very large,
+and many people live on it; they have goats and sheep in abundance:
+the owners of canoes demand three hoes for the hire of one capable of
+carrying eight or ten persons; beyond this island it is sea horizon
+only. The tsébula and nzoé antelopes abound. The people desire salt
+and not beads for sale.
+
+_2nd April, 1868._--If I am not deceived by the information I have
+received from various reliable sources, the springs of the Nile rise
+between 9° and 10° south latitude, or at least 400 or 500 miles south
+of the south end of Speke's Lake, which he considered to be the
+sources of the Nile. Tanganyika is declared to send its water through
+north into Lake Chowambé or Baker's Lake; if this does not prove
+false, then Tanganyika is an expansion of the Nile, and so is Lake
+Chowambé; the two Lakes being connected by the River Loanda.
+Unfortunately the people on the east side of the Loanda are constantly
+at war with the people on the west of it, or those of Rusisi. The
+Arabs have been talking of opening up a path through to Chowambé,
+where much ivory is reported; I hope that the Most High may give me a
+way there.
+
+_11th April, 1868._--I had a long oration from Mohamad yesterday
+against going off for Bemba to-morrow. His great argument is the
+extortionate way of Casembe, who would demand cloth, and say that in
+pretending to go to Ujiji I had told him lies: he adds to this
+argument that this is the last month of the rains; the Masika has
+begun, and our way north will soon be open. The fact of the matter is
+that Mohamad, by not telling me of the superabundance of water in the
+country of the Marungu, which occurs every year, caused me to lose
+five months. He knew that we should be detained here, but he was so
+eager to get out of his state of durance with Casembe that he hastened
+my departure by asserting that we should be at Ujiji in one month. I
+regret this deception, but it is not to be wondered at, and in a
+Mohamadan and in a Christian too it is thought clever. Were my goods
+not nearly done I would go, and risk the displeasure of Casembe for
+the chance of discovering the Lake Bemba. I thought once of buying
+from Mohamad Bogharib, but am afraid that his stock may be getting low
+too: I fear that I must give up this Lake for the present.
+
+_12th April, 1868._--I think of starting to-morrow for Bangweolo, even
+if Casembe refuses a passage beyond him: we shall be better there than
+we are here, for everything at Kabwabwata is scarce and dear. There we
+can get a fowl for one string of beads, here it costs six: there fish
+may be bought, here none. Three of Casembe's principal men are here,
+Kakwata, Charley, and Kapitenga; they are anxious to go home, and
+would be a gain to me, but Mohamad detains them, and when I ask his
+reason he says "Muabo refuses," but they point to Mohamad's house and
+say, "It is he who refuses."
+
+[A very serious desertion took place at this time amongst Dr.
+Livingstone's followers. Not to judge them too harshly they had become
+to a great extent demoralised by camp life with Mohamad and his horde
+of slaves and slavers. The Arab tried all he could to dissuade the
+traveller from proceeding south instead of homewards through Ujiji,
+and the men seem to have found their own breaking-point where this
+disappointment occurred.]
+
+_13th April, 1868._--On preparing to start this morning my people
+refused to go: the fact is, they are all tired, and Mohamad's
+opposition encourages them. Mohamad, who was evidently eager to make
+capital out of their refusal, asked me to remain over to-day, and then
+demanded what I was going to do with those who had absconded. I said,
+"Nothing: if a magistrate were on the spot, I would give them over to
+him." "Oh," said he, "I am magistrate, shall I apprehend them?" To
+this I assented. He repeated this question till it was tiresome: I saw
+his reason long afterwards, when he asserted that I "came to him and
+asked him to bind them, but he had refused:" he wanted to appear to
+the people as much better than I am.
+
+_14th April, 1868._--I start off with five attendants, leaving most of
+the luggage with Mohamad, and reach the Luao to spend the night.
+Headman Ndowa.
+
+_15th April, 1868._--Amoda ran away early this morning. "Wishes to
+stop with his brothers." They think that, by refusing to go to Bemba,
+they will force me to remain with them, and then go to Ujiji: one of
+them has infused the idea into their minds that I will not pay them,
+and exclaims "Look at the sepoys!"--not knowing that they are paid by
+the Indian Government; and as for the Johanna men, they were prepaid
+_29l. 4s._ in cash, besides clothing. I sent Amoda's bundle back to
+Mohamad: my messenger got to Kabwabwata before Amoda did, and he
+presented himself to my Arab friend, who, of course, scolded him: he
+replied that he was tired of carrying, and no other fault had he; I
+may add that I found out that Amoda wished to come south to me with
+one of Mohamad Bogharib's men, but "Mpamari" told him not to return.
+Now that I was fairly started, I told my messenger to say to Mohamad
+that I would on no account go to Ujiji, till I had done all in my
+power to reach the Lake I sought: I would even prefer waiting at Luao
+or Moero, till people came to me from Ujiji to supplant the runaways.
+I did not blame them very severely in my own mind for absconding: they
+were tired of tramping, and so verily am I, but Mohamad, in
+encouraging them to escape to him, and talking with a double tongue,
+cannot be exonerated from blame. Little else can be expected from him,
+he has lived some thirty-five years in the country, twenty-five being
+at Casembe's, and there he had often to live by his wits.
+Consciousness of my own defects makes me lenient.
+
+_16th April, 1868._--Ndowa gives Mita or Mpamańkanana as the names of
+the excavations in Muabo's hills, he says that they are sufficient to
+conceal all the people of this district in case of war: I conjecture
+that this implies room for ten thousand people: provisions are stored
+in them, and a perennial rivulet runs along a whole street of them. On
+one occasion, when the main entrance was besieged by an enemy, someone
+who knew all the intricacies of the excavations led a party out by a
+secret passage, and they, coming over the invaders, drove them off
+with heavy loss. Their formation is universally ascribed to the Deity.
+This may mean that the present inhabitants have succeeded the original
+burrowing race, which dug out many caves adjacent to Mount Hor--the
+_Jebel Nébi Harin_, Mount of the Prophet Aaron, of the Arabs--and many
+others; and even the Bushman caves, a thousand miles south of this
+region.
+
+A very minute, sharp-biting mosquito is found here: the women try to
+drive them out of their huts by whisking bundles of green leaves all
+round the walls before turning into them.
+
+_17th August, 1868._--Crossed the Luao by a bridge, thirty yards long,
+and more than half a mile of flood on each side; passed many villages,
+standing on little heights, which overlook plains filled with water.
+Some three miles of grassy plains abreast of Moero were the deepest
+parts, except the banks of Luao. We had four hours of wading, the
+bottom being generally black tenacious mud. Ruts had been formed in
+the paths by the feet of passengers: these were filled with soft mud,
+and, as they could not be seen, the foot was often placed on the edge,
+and when the weight came on it, down it slumped into the mud, half-way
+up the calves; it was difficult to draw it out, and very fatiguing. To
+avoid these ruts we encroached on the grass at the sides of the paths,
+but often stepping on the unseen edge of a rut, we floundered in with
+both feet to keep the balance, and this was usually followed by a rush
+of bubbles to the surface, which, bursting, discharged foul air of
+frightful faecal odour. In parts, the black mud and foul water were
+cold, in others hot, according as circulation went on or not. When we
+came near Moero, the water became half-chest and whole-chest deep; all
+perishable articles had to be put on the head. We found a party of
+fishermen on the sands, and I got a hut, a bath in the clear but tepid
+waters, and a delicious change of dress. Water of Lake, 83° at 3 P.M.
+
+_18th April, 1868._--We marched along the north end of Moero, which
+has a south-east direction. The soft yielding sand which is flanked by
+a broad belt of tangled tropical vegetation and trees, added to the
+fatigues of yesterday, so finding a deserted fisherman's village near
+the eastern hills, we gladly made it our quarters for Sunday (19th). I
+made no mark, but the Lake is at least twenty feet higher now than it
+was on our first visits, and there are banks showing higher rises even
+than this.
+
+Large fish-baskets made of split reeds are used in trios for catching
+small fish; one man at each basket drives fish ashore.
+
+_20th April, 1868._--Went on to Katétté River, and then to a strong
+torrent; slept at a village on the north bank of the River Vuna,
+where, near the hills, is a hot fountain, sometimes used to cook
+cassava and maize.
+
+_21st April, 1868._--Crossed the Vuna and went on to Kalembwé's
+village, meeting the chief at the gate, who guided us to a hut, and
+manifested great curiosity to see all our things; he asked if we could
+not stop next day and drink beer, which would then be ready. Leopards
+abound here. The Lake now seems broader than ever.
+
+I could not conceive that a hole in the cartilage of the nose could be
+turned to any account except to hold an ornament, though that is
+usually only a bit of grass, but a man sewing the feathers on his
+arrows used his nose-hole for holding a needle! In coming on to
+Kangalola we found the country swimming: I got separated from the
+company, though I saw them disappear in the long grass not a hundred
+yards off and shouted, but the splashing of their feet prevented any
+one hearing. I could not find a path going south, so I took one to the
+east to a village; the grass was so long and tangled, I could scarcely
+get along, at last I engaged a man to show me the main path south, and
+he took me to a neat village of a woman--Nyinakasangaand would go no
+further, "Mother Kasanga," as the name means, had been very handsome,
+and had a beautiful daughter, probably another edition of herself, she
+advised my waiting in the deep shade of the Ficus indica, in which her
+houses were placed. I fired a gun, and when my attendants came gave
+her a string of beads, which made her express distress at my "leaving
+without drinking anything of hers." People have abandoned several
+villages on account of the abundance of ferocious wild beasts.
+
+_23rd April, 1868._--Through very thick tangled Nyassi grass to
+Chikosi's burned village; Nsama had killed him. We spent the night in
+a garden hut, which the fire of the village had spared. Turnips were
+growing in the ruins. The Nyassi, or long coarse grass, hangs over the
+paths, and in pushing it aside the sharp seeds penetrate the clothes
+and are very annoying. The grass itself rubs on the face and eyes
+disagreeably: when it is burned off and greensward covers the soil it
+is much more pleasant walking.
+
+24th _April, 1868._--We leave Chikosi's ruins and make for the ford of
+the Kalungosi. Marigolds are in full bloom all over the forest, and so
+are foxgloves. The river is here fully 100 yards broad with 300 yards
+of flood on its western bank; so deep we had to remain in the canoes
+till within 50 yards of the higher ground. The people here chew the
+pith of the papyrus, which is three inches in diameter and as white as
+snow: it has very little sweetness or anything else in it. The headman
+of the village to which we went was out cutting wood for a garden, and
+his wife refused us a hut, but when Kansabala came in the evening he
+scolded his own spouse roundly and all the wives of the village, and
+then pressed me to come indoors, but I was well enough in my mosquito
+curtain without, and declined: I was free from insects and vermin, and
+few huts are so.
+
+_25th April, 1868._--Off early west, and then on to an elevated forest
+land, in which our course was S.S.W. to the great bend of the rivulet
+Kifurwa, which enters Moero near to the mouth of the Kalungosi.
+
+_26th April, 1868._--Here we spent Sunday in our former woodcutters'
+huts. Yesterday we were met by a party of the same occupation, laden
+with bark-cloth, which they had just been stripping off the trees.
+Their leader would not come along the path because I was sitting near
+it: I invited him to do so, but it would have been disrespectful to
+let his shadow fall on any part of my person, so he went a little out
+of the way: this politeness is common.
+
+_27th April, 1868._--But a short march to Fungafunga's village: we
+could have gone on to the Muatizé, but no village exists there, and
+here we could buy food. Fungafunga's wife gave a handsome supper to
+the stranger: on afterwards acknowledging it to her husband he said,
+"That is your village; always go that way and eat my provisions." He
+is a Monyamwezi trading in the country for copper, hoes, and slaves.
+Parrots are here in numbers stealing Holcus sorghum in spite of the
+shouts of the women.
+
+We cross Muatizé by a bridge of one large tree, getting a good view of
+Moero from a hill near Kabukwa, and sleep at Chirongo River.
+
+_29th April, 1868._--At the Mandapala River. Some men here from the
+Chungu, one of whom claimed to be a relative of Casembe, made a great
+outcry against our coming a second time to Casembe without waiting at
+the Kalungosi for permission. One of them, with his ears cropped short
+off, asked me when I was departing north if I should come again. I
+replied, "Yes, I think I shall." They excited themselves by calling
+over the same thing again and again. "The English come the second
+time!" "The second time--the second time--the country spoiled! Why not
+wait at the Kalungosi? Let him return thither." "Come from Mpamari
+too, and from the Bagaraganza or Banyamwezi!!" "The second time--the
+second time!" Then all the adjacent villagers were called in to
+settle this serious affair. I look up to that higher Power to
+influence their minds as He has often done before. I persuaded them to
+refer the matter to Casembe himself by sending a man with one of mine
+up to the town. They would not consent to go on to the Chungu, as the
+old cropped-eared man would have been obliged to come back the
+distance again, he having been on the way to the Kalungosi as a
+sentinel of the ford. Casembe is reasonable and fair, but his people
+are neither, and will do anything to mulct either strangers or their
+own countrymen.
+
+_30th April, 1868._--The cold of winter has begun, and dew is
+deposited in great quantities, but all the streams are very high in
+flood, though the rains have ceased here some time.
+
+_1st May, 1868._--At the Mandapala River. I sent a request to Mohamad
+Bogharib to intercede with Casembe for me for a man to show the way to
+Chikumbi, who is near to Bangweolo. I fear that I have become mixed up
+in the Lunda mind with Mpamari (Mohamad bin Saleh), from having gone
+off with him and returning ere we reached Ujiji, whither ostensibly we
+were bound. I may be suspected of being in his confidence, and of
+forwarding his plans by coming back. A deaf and dumb man appears among
+the people here, making signs exactly as I have seen such do in
+England, and occasionally emitting a low unmodulated guttural drawl
+like them.
+
+_3rd May, 1868._--Abraham, my messenger, came back, while we were at
+afternoon prayers, with good news for us, but what made Cropped-ears
+quite chopfallen was that Casembe was quite gracious! He did not wish
+me to go away, and now I am welcome back; and as soon as we hear of
+peace at Chikumbi's we shall have a man to conduct us thither. The
+Mazitu were reported to have made an inroad into Chikumbi's country;
+and it was said that chief had fled, and Casembe had sent messengers
+to hear the truth. Thanks to the Most High for His kindness and
+influence.
+
+_4th May, 1868._--We leave the Mandapala. Cropped-ears, whose name I
+never heard, collapsed at once on hearing the message of Casembe:
+before that I never heard such a babbler, to every one passing, man or
+woman, he repeated the same insinuations about the English, and
+"Mpamari," and the Banyamwezi,--conspiracy--guilt--return a second
+time,--till, like a meddling lawyer, he thought that he had really got
+an important case in hand!
+
+The River Chungu we found to be from fifteen to eighteen yards broad
+and breast deep, with at least one hundred yards of flood, before we
+reached the main stream, the Mandapala. The Chungu and the Lundi join
+in the country called Kimbafuma, about twelve miles from our
+crossing-place of Mandapala, and about west of it. The Lundi was now
+breast deep too, and twelve yards broad.
+
+On reaching Casembe's, on the Mofwé, we found Mohamad Bogharib digging
+and fencing up a well to prevent his slaves being taken away by the
+crocodiles, as three had been eaten already. A dog bit the leg of one
+of my goats so badly that I was obliged to kill it: they are nasty
+curs here, without courage, and yet they sometimes bite people badly.
+I met some old friends, and Mohamad Bogharib cooked a supper, and from
+this time forward never omitted sharing his victuals with me.
+
+_6th May, 1868._--Manoel Caetano Pereira visited Casembe in 1796, or
+seventy-two years ago: his native name was Moendo-mondo, or the
+world's leg--"world-wide traveller!" He came to Mandapala, for there
+the Casembe of the time resided, and he had a priest or "Kasisé" with
+him, and many people with guns. Pérémbé, the oldest man now in Lunda,
+had children even then: if Pérémbé were thirty years of age at that
+period he would now be 102 years old, and he seems quite that, for
+when Dr. Lacerda came he had forty children. He says that Pereira
+fired off all his guns on his arrival, and Casembe asking him what he
+meant by that, he replied, "These guns ask for slaves and ivory," both
+of which were liberally given.
+
+I could not induce Pérémbé to tell anything of times previous to his
+own. Moendo-mondo, the world's leg (Pereira), told Dr. Lacerda that
+the natives called him "The Terror!"--a bit of vanity, for they have
+no such word or abstract term in their language.
+
+When Major Monteiro was here the town of Casembe was on the same spot
+as now, but the Mosumba, or enclosure of the chief, was about 500
+yards S.E. of the present one. Monteiro went nowhere and did nothing,
+but some of his attendants went over to the Luapula, some six miles
+distant. He complains in his book of having been robbed by the Casembe
+of the time. On asking the present occupant of the office why
+Monteiro's goods were taken from him, he replied, that he was then
+living at another village and did not know of the affair. Mohamad bin
+Saleh was present, and he says that Monteiro's statement is false: no
+goods were forced from him; but it was a year of scarcity, and
+Monteiro had to spend his goods in buying food instead of slaves and
+ivory, and made up the tale of Casembe plundering him to appease his
+creditors.
+
+A number of men were sent with Monteiro as an honorary escort. Kapika,
+an old man now living, was the chief or one of the chiefs of this
+party, and he says that he went to Tette, Senna, and Quillimane with
+Monteiro: this honorary escort seems confirmatory of Mohamad's
+explanation, for had Casembe robbed the Major none would have been
+granted or received.
+
+It is warmer here than we found it in the way; clouds cover the sky
+and prevent radiation. The sorghum is now in full ear. People make
+very neat mats of the leaves of the Shuaré palm. I got lunars this
+time.
+
+_9th May, 1868._--Eight or ten men went past us this morning, sent by
+the chief to catch people whom he intends to send to his paramount
+chief, Matiamvo, as a tribute of slaves. Pérémbé gives the following
+list of the Casembes:--
+
+    I. KANYIMBE, came from Lunda, attracted by the
+        fish of Mofwé and Moero, and conquered
+        Pérémbé's forefather, Katéré, who planted the
+        first palm-oil palms here from seeds got in
+        Lunda. It is probable that the intercourse
+        then set afoot led to Kanyimbé's coming and
+        conquest.
+    II. KINYANTA.
+    III. NGUANDA MILONDA.
+    IV. KANYEMBO.
+    V. LEKWISA.
+    VI. KIRÉKA.
+    VII. KAPUMBA.
+    VIII. KINYANTA.
+    IX. LEKWISA, still alive, but a fugitive at Nsama's.
+    X. MUONGA, the present ruler, who drove Lékwisa
+       away.
+
+The Portuguese came to Kiréka, who is said to have been very liberal
+with presents of ivory, slaves, and cattle. The present man has good
+sense, and is very fair in his judgments, but stingy towards his own
+people as well as strangers: nevertheless I have had good reason to be
+satisfied with his conduct to me. Maiyé, not in the list, and 7, 8, 9,
+10 are the children of Kiréka. Muonga is said by the others to be a
+slave "born out of the house," that is, his mother was not of the
+royal line; she is an ugly old woman, and greedy. I got rid of her
+begging by giving her the beads she sought, and requesting her to cook
+some food for me; she begged no more, afraid that I would press my
+claim for provisions!
+
+_10th May, 1868._--I sent to Casembe for a guide to Luapula, he
+replied that he had not seen me nor given me any food; I must come
+to-morrow: but next day he was occupied in killing a man for
+witchcraft and could not receive us, but said that he would on the
+12th. He sent 15 fish (perch) from Mofwé, and a large basket of dried
+cassava. I have taken lunars several times, measuring both sides of
+the moon about 190 times, but a silly map-maker may alter the whole
+for the most idiotic of reasons.
+
+_13th May, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib has been here some seven months,
+and bought three tusks only; the hunting, by Casembe's people, of
+elephants in the Mofwé has been unsuccessful.
+
+We did not get an audience from Casembe; the fault lay with
+Kapika--Monteiro's escort--being afraid to annoy Casembe by putting
+him in mind of it, but on the 15th Casembe sent for me, and told me
+that as the people had all fled from Chikumbi's, he would therefore
+send guides to take us to Kabaia, where there was still a population;
+he wished me to wait a few days till he had looked out good men as
+guides, and ground some flour for us to use in the journey. He
+understood that I wished to go to Bangweolo; and it was all right to
+do what my own chief had sent me for, and then come back to him. It
+was only water--the same as Luapula, Mofwé, and Moero; nothing to be
+seen. His people must not molest me again, but let me go where I
+liked. This made me thank Him who has the hearts of all in His hand.
+
+Casembe also admitted that he had injured "Mpamari," but he would send
+him some slaves and ivory in reparation: he is better than his people,
+who are excessively litigious, and fond of milandos or causes--suits.
+He asked if I had not the leopard's skin he gave me to sit on, as it
+was bad to sit on the ground; I told him it had so many holes in it
+people laughed at it and made me ashamed, but he did not take the
+hint to give me another. He always talks good sense when he has not
+swilled beer or pombe: all the Arabs are loud in his praises, but they
+have a bad opinion of the Queen Moäri or Ngombé or Kifuta. The
+Garaganza people at Katanga killed a near relative of Casembe and
+herself, and when the event happened, Fungafunga, one of the Garaganza
+or Banyamwezi being near the spot, fled and came to the Mofwé: he
+continued his flight as soon as it was dark without saying anything to
+anyone, until he got north to Kabiuré. The Queen and Casembe suspected
+Mpamari of complicity with the Banyamwezi, and believed that
+Fungafunga had communicated the news to him before fleeing further. A
+tumult was made; Mpamari's eldest son was killed; and he was plundered
+of all his copper, ivory, and slaves: the Queen loudly demanded his
+execution, but Casembe restrained his people as well as he was able
+and it is for this injury that he now professes to be sorry.
+
+The Queen only acted according to the principles of her people.
+"Mpamari killed my son, kill his son--himself." It is difficult to get
+at the truth, for Mohamad or Mpamari never tells the whole truth. He
+went to fight Nsama with Muonga, and was wounded in the foot and
+routed, and is now glad to get out of Lunda back to Ujiji. _(16th
+May.)_ Complete twenty sets of lunars.
+
+_11th May, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib told Casembe that he could buy
+nothing, and therefore was going away, Casembe replied that he had no
+ivory and he might go: this was sensible; he sent far and near to find
+some, but failed, and now confesses a truth which most chiefs hide
+from unwillingness to appear poor before foreigners.
+
+_18th and 19th May, 1868._--It is hot here though winter; but cold by
+night. Casembe has sent for fish for us. News came that one of Syde
+bin Habib's men had come to Chikumbi on his way to Zanzibar.
+
+_20th May, 1868._--A thunder-shower from the east laid the dust and
+cooled the ground: the last shower of this season, as a similar slight
+shower was the finish up of the last on the 12th of May. _(21st May._)
+This cannot be called a rainy month: April is the last month of the
+wet season, and November the first.
+
+_22nd May, 1868._--Casembe is so slow with his fish, meal, and guides,
+and his people so afraid to hurry him, that I think of going off as
+soon as Mohamad Bogharib moves; he is going to Chikumbi's to buy
+copper, and thence he will proceed to Uvira to exchange that for
+ivory; but this is at present kept as a secret from his slaves. The
+way seems thus to be opening for me to go to the large Lake west of
+Uvira.
+
+I told Casembe that we were going; he said to me that if in coming
+back I had found no travelling party, I must not risk going by Nsama's
+road with so few people, but must go to his brother Moenempanda, and
+he would send men to guide me to him, and thence he would send me
+safely by his path along Lake Moero: this was all very good.
+
+_23rd May, 1868._--The Arabs made a sort of sacrifice of a goat which
+was cooked all at once; they sent a good dish of it to me. They read
+the Koran very industriously, and prayed for success or luck in
+leaving, and seem sincerely religious, according to the light that is
+in them. The use of incense and sacrifices brings back the old Jewish
+times to mind.
+
+A number of people went off to the Kanengwa, a rivulet an hour south
+of this, to build huts; there they are to take leave of Casembe, for
+the main body goes off to-morrow, after we have seen the new moon.
+They are very particular in selecting lucky days, and anything
+unpleasant that may have happened in one month is supposed to be
+avoided by choosing a different day for beginning an enterprise in the
+next. Mohamad left Uvira on the third day of a new moon, and several
+fires happened in his camp; he now considers a third day inauspicious.
+
+Casembe's dura or sorghum is ripe to-day: he has eaten mapemba or
+dura, and all may thereafter do the same: this is just about the time
+when it ripens and is reaped at Kolobeng, thus the difference in the
+seasons is not great.
+
+_24th May, 1868._--Detained four days yet. Casembe's chief men refuse
+to escort Mohamad Bogharib; they know him to be in debt, and fear that
+he may be angry, but no dunning was intended. Casembe was making every
+effort to get ivory to liquidate it, and at last got a couple of
+tusks, which he joyfully gave to Mohamad: he has risen much in the
+estimation of us all.
+
+_26th May, 1868._--Casembe's people killed five buffaloes by chasing
+them into the mud and water of Mofwé, so he is seeing to the division
+of the meat, and will take leave to-morrow.
+
+_28th May, 1868._--We went to Casembe; he was as gracious as usual. A
+case of crim. con. was brought forward against an Arab's slave, and an
+attempt was made to arrange the matter privately by offering three
+cloths, beads, and another slave, but the complainant refused
+everything. Casembe dismissed the case by saying to the complainant,
+"You send your women to entrap the strangers in order to get a fine,
+but you will get nothing:" this was highly applauded by the Arabs, and
+the owner of the slave heaped dust on his head, as many had done
+before for favours received. Casembe, still anxious to get ivory for
+Mohamad, proposed another delay of four days to send for it; but all
+are tired, and it is evident that it is not want of will that prevents
+ivory being produced.
+
+His men returned without any, and he frankly confessed inability: he
+is evidently very poor.
+
+_30th May, 1868._--We went to the Kanengwa rivulet at the south end
+of Mofwé, which forms a little lagoon there fifty yards broad and
+thigh deep; but this is not the important feeder of the Lagoon, which
+is from two to three miles broad, and nearly four long: that has many
+large flat sedgy islands in it, and its water is supplied by the
+Mbérézé from south-east.
+
+_31st May, 1868._--Old Kapika sold his young and good-looking wife for
+unfaithfulness, as he alleged. The sight of a lady in the chain-gang
+shocked the ladies of Lunda, who ran to her, and having ascertained
+from her own mouth what was sufficiently apparent, that she was a
+slave now, clapped their hands on their mouths in the way that they
+express wonder, surprise, and horror: the hand is placed so that the
+fingers are on one cheek and the thumb on the other.
+
+The case of the chieftainess excited great sympathy among the people;
+some brought her food, Kapika's daughters brought her pombe and
+bananas; one man offered to redeem her with two, another with three
+slaves, but Casembe, who is very strict in punishing infidelity, said,
+"No, though ten slaves be offered she must go." He is probably afraid
+of his own beautiful queen should the law be relaxed. Old Kapika came
+and said to her, "You refused me, and I now refuse you." A young wife
+of old Pérémbé was also sold as a punishment, but redeemed.
+
+There is a very large proportion of very old and very tall men in this
+district. The slave-trader is a means of punishing the wives which
+these old fogies ought never to have had.
+
+Casembe sent me about a hundredweight of the small fish Nsipo, which
+seems to be the whitebait of our country; it is a little bitter when
+cooked alone, but with ground-nuts is a tolerable relish: we can buy
+flour with these at Chikumbi's.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[60] Chikichi nuts have been an article of trade and export for some
+time from Zanzibar. The oil-palm grows wild in Pemba.
+
+[61] A chief named Moené Ungu, who admires the Arabs, sent his
+children to Zanzibar to be instructed to read and write.
+
+[62] This bird is often brought to Zanzibar by the Ivory Caravans.
+
+[63] The Doctor's birthday.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Prepares to examine Lake Bemba. Starts from Casembe's 11th June,
+    1868. Dead leopard. Moenampanda's reception. The River Luongo.
+    Weird death-song of slaves. The forest grave. Lake Bembo changed
+    to Lake Bangweolo. Chikumbi's. The Imbozhwa people. Kombokombo's
+    stockade. Mazitu difficulties. Discovers Lake Bangweolo on 18th
+    July, 1868. The Lake Chief Mapuni. Description of the Lake.
+    Prepares to navigate it. Embarks for Lifungé Island. Immense
+    size of Lake. Reaches Mpabala Island. Strange dream. Fears of
+    canoe men. Return to shore. March back. Sends letters. Meets
+    Banyamweze. Reviews recent explorations at length. Disturbed
+    state of country.
+
+
+_1st June, 1868._--Mohamad proposes to go to Katanga to buy copper,
+and invites me to go too. I wish to see the Lufra Kiver, but I must
+see Bemba or Bangweolo. Grant guidance from above!
+
+_2nd June, 1868._--In passing a field of cassava I picked the pods of
+a plant called Malumbi, which climbs up the cassava bushes; at the
+root it has a number of tubers with eyes, exactly like the potato. One
+plant had sixteen of these tubers, each about 2 inches long and 1-1/2
+inch in diameter: another tuber was 5 inches long and 2 in diameter,
+it would be difficult for anyone to distinguish them from English
+potatoes. When boiled they are a little waxy, and, compared with our
+potato, hard. There are colours inside, the outer part reddish, the
+inner whiter. At first none of the party knew them, but afterwards
+they were recognised as cultivated at Zanzibar by the name "Men," and
+very good when mashed with fish: if in Zanzibar, they are probably
+known in other tropical islands,
+
+_4th June, 1868._--From what I see of slaving, even in its best
+phases, I would not be a slave-dealer for the world.
+
+_5th June, 1868._--The Queen Moäri passed us this morning, going to
+build a hut at her plantation; she has a pleasant European
+countenance, clean light-brown skin, and a merry laugh, and would be
+admired anywhere. I stood among the cassava to see her pass; she
+twirled her umbrella as she came near, borne by twelve men, and seemed
+to take up the laugh which made her and her maids bolt at my
+reception, showing that she laughs not with her mouth only, but with
+her eyes and cheeks: she said, "Yambo" (how are you)? To which I
+replied, "Tambo sana" (very well). One of her attendants said, "Give
+her something of what you have at hand, or in the pockets." I said, "I
+have nothing here," and asked her if she would come back near my hut.
+She replied that she would, and I duly sent for two strings of red
+beads, which I presented. Being lower than she, I could see that she
+had a hole through the cartilage, near the point of her slightly
+aquiline nose; and a space was filed between the two front teeth, so
+as to leave a triangular hole.
+
+[Illustration: Filed Teeth of Queen Moäri.]
+
+After delay had grown vexatious, we march three hours on the 9th, and
+reach the Katofia River, covered with aquatic trees and running into
+the Mbérézé: five yards wide and knee deep.
+
+_10th June, 1868._--Detained again, for business is not finished with
+the people of Casembe. The people cannot esteem the slave-trader, who
+is used as a means of punishing those who have family differences, as
+those of a wife with her husband, or a servant with his master. The
+slaves are said to be generally criminals, and are sold in revenge or
+as punishment. Kapika's wife had an ornament of the end of a shell
+called the cone; it was borrowed and she came away with it in her
+hair: the owner, without making any effort to recover it, seized one
+of Kapika's daughters as a pledge that Kapika would exert himself to
+get it back!
+
+[At last the tedious delay came to an end and we must now follow the
+Doctor on his way south to discover Lake Bemba.]
+
+_11th June, 1868._--Crossed the Mbérézé, ten yards broad and thigh
+deep, ascending a range of low hills of hardened sandstone, covered,
+as the country generally is, with forest. Our course S.E. and S.S.E.
+Then descended into a densely-wooded valley, having a rivulet four
+yards wide and knee deep. Buffaloes and elephants very numerous.
+
+_12th June, 1868._--We crossed the Mbérézé again twice; then a very
+deep narrow rivulet, and stopped at another in a mass of trees, where
+we spend the night, and killing an ox remained next day to eat it.
+When at Kanengwa a small party of men came past, shouting as if they
+had done something of importance: on going to them, I found that two
+of them carried a lion slung to a pole. It was a small maneless
+variety, called "the lion of _Nyassi_," or long grass. It had killed a
+man and they killed it. They had its mouth carefully strapped, and the
+paws tied across its chest, and were taking it to Casembe. _Nyassi_
+means long grass, such as towers overhead, and is as thick in the
+stalk as a goose-quill; and is erroneously applied to Nyassa. Other
+lions--Thambwé, Karamo, Simba, are said to stand 5 feet high, and some
+higher: this seemed about 3 feet high, but it was too dark to measure
+it.
+
+_13th June, 1868._--The Arabs distinguish the Suaheli, or Arabs of
+mixed African blood, by the absence of beard and whiskers: these are
+usually small and stunted in the Suaheli.
+
+Birds, as the Drongo shrike, and a bird very like the grey linnet,
+with a thick reddish bill, assemble in very large flocks now that it
+is winter, and continue thus till November, or period of the rains.
+
+A very minute bee goes into the common small holes in wormeaten wood
+to make a comb and lay its eggs, with a supply of honey. There are
+seven or eight honey-bees of small size in this country.
+
+A sphex may be seen to make holes in the ground, placing stupified
+insects in them with her eggs; another species watches when she goes
+off to get more insects, and every now and then goes in too to lay her
+eggs, I suppose without any labour: there does not appear to be any
+enmity between them. We remained a day to buy food for the party, and
+eat our ox.
+
+_14th June, 1868._--March over well-wooded highlands with dolomite
+rocks cropping out and trees all covered with lichens, the watershed
+then changed to the south.
+
+_15th June, 1868._--Yery cold in mornings now (43°). Found
+Moenempanda, Casembe's brother, on the Luluputa, a stream twenty yards
+wide and flowing west. The Moenempanda visited by the Portuguese was
+grandfather to this one, and not at the same spot; it is useless to
+put down the names of chiefs as indicating geographical positions, for
+the name is often continued, but at a spot far distant from the
+dwelling of the original possessor. A slave tried to break out of his
+slave-stick, and actually broke half an inch of tough iron with his
+fingers; the end stuck in the wood, or he would have freed himself.
+
+The chief gave me a public reception, which was like that of Casembe,
+but better managed. He is young, and very handsome but for a defect in
+his eyes, which makes him keep them half shut or squinting. He walked
+off in the jaunty way all chiefs do in this country, to show the
+weight of rings and beads on the legs, and many imitate this walk who
+have none, exactly as our fathers imitated the big cravat of George
+IV., who thereby hid defects in his neck: thousands carried their
+cravats over the chin who had no defects to hide. Moenempanda carried
+his back stiffly, and no wonder, he had about ten yards of a train
+carried behind it. About 600 people were present. They kept rank, but
+not step; were well armed; marimbas and square drums formed the bands,
+and one musician added his voice: "I have been to Syde" (the Sultan);
+"I have been to Meereput" (King of Portugal); "I have been to the
+sea." At a private reception, where he was divested of his train, and
+had only one umbrella instead of three, I gave him a cloth. The Arabs
+thought highly of him; but his graciousness had been expended on them
+in getting into debt; he now showed no inclination to get out of it,
+but offered about a twentieth part of the value of the goods in
+liquidation. He sent me two pots of beer, which I care not to drink
+except when very thirsty on a march, and promised a man to guide me to
+Chikumbi, and then refused. Casembe rose in the esteem of all as
+Moenempanda sank, and his people were made to understand how shabbily
+he had behaved.
+
+The Lulaputa is said to flow into the Luéna, and that into the Luongo:
+there must be two Luénas.
+
+_22nd June, 1868._--March across a grassy plain southerly to the
+Luongo, a deep river embowered in a dense forest of trees, all covered
+with lichens--some flat, others long and thready, like old men's
+beards, and waving in the wind, just as they do on the mangrove-swamp
+trees on the coast. The Luongo here is fifty yards broad and three
+fathoms deep; near its junction with the Luapula it is 100 yards; it
+rises here to eight fathoms' depth. A bridge of forty yards led us
+over to an island, and a branch of the river was ten yards beyond: the
+bridge had been broken, some thought on purpose, but it was soon
+mended with trees eighteen to twenty yards long. We went a little way
+beyond, and then halted for a day at a rivulet flowing into the
+Luongo, 200 yards off.
+
+_23rd June, 1868._--We waited for copper here, which was at first
+refused as payment of debt. I saw now that the Luongo had steep clay
+banks fifteen feet down, and many meadows, which must be swimming
+during the rains. The Luéna is said to rise east of this.
+
+[In a private letter Livingstone shows that he had seldom been more
+affected by the sufferings of slaves than at this time, and it would
+perhaps be difficult to imagine any scene more calculated to excite
+misery and distress of mind.
+
+The following incident deals with the firm belief in a future state,
+which enters so largely into the minds of all Africans, and which for
+very lack of guidance assumes all the distorted growths of
+superstition.
+
+He must be of a thankless spirit who does not long to substitute the
+great vision of future peace afforded by Christianity, in lieu of the
+ghastly satisfaction which cheered these men, when he sees by the
+light of this story the capacity that exists for realising a life
+beyond the grave.]
+
+_24th June, 1868._--Six men slaves were singing as if they did not
+feel the weight and degradation of the slave-sticks. I asked the cause
+of their mirth, and was told that they rejoiced at the idea "of coming
+back after death and haunting and killing those who had sold them."
+Some of the words I had to inquire about; for instance, the meaning of
+the words "to haunt and kill by spirit power;" then it was, "Oh, you
+sent me off to Manga (sea-coast), but the yoke is off when I die, and
+back I shall come to haunt and to kill you." Then all joined in the
+chorus, which was the name of each vendor. It told not of fun, but of
+the bitterness and tears of such as were oppressed, and on the side
+of the oppressors there was a power: there be higher than they!
+
+Pérémbé was one of the culprits thus menaced. The slave-owner asked
+Kapika's wife if she would return to kill Kapika. The others answered
+to the names of the different men with laughter. Her heart was
+evidently sore: for a lady to come so low down is to her grievous. She
+has lost her jaunty air, and is, with her head shaved, ugly; but she
+never forgets to address her captors with dignity, and they seem to
+fear her.
+
+_25th June, 1868._--We went over flat forest with patches of brown
+haematite cropping out; this is the usual iron ore, but I saw in a
+village pieces of specular iron-ore which had been brought for
+smelting. The Luongo flowed away somewhat to our right or west, and
+the villagers had selected their site where only well-water could be
+found: we went ten minutes towards the Luongo and got abundance.
+
+[Illustration: A Forest Grave.]
+
+The gardens had high hedges round to keep off wild beasts. We came to
+a grave in the forest; it was a little rounded mound as if the
+occupant sat in it in the usual native way: it was strewed over with
+flour, and a number of the large blue beads put on it: a little path
+showed that it had visitors. This is the sort of grave I should
+prefer: to lie in the still, still forest, and no hand ever disturb my
+bones. The graves at home always seemed to me to be miserable,
+especially those in the cold damp clay, and without elbow room; but I
+have nothing to do but wait till He who is over all decides where I
+have to lay me down and die. Poor Mary lies on Shupanga brae, "and
+beeks fornent the sun."[64]
+
+Came to the Chando River, which is the boundary between Casembe and
+Chikumbi; but Casembe is over all.
+
+_27th June, 1868._--We crossed a flooded marsh with the water very
+cold, and then the Chando itself twelve feet broad and knee deep, then
+on to another strong brook Nsénga.
+
+_28th June, 1868._--After service we went on up hills to a stockade of
+Banyamwezi, on the Kalomina River, and here we built our sheds; the
+spot is called Kizinga, and is on the top of a sandstone range covered
+as usual with forest. The Banyamwezi beat off the Mazitu with their
+guns, while all the country people fled. The Banyamwezi are decidedly
+uglier than the Balonda and Baitawa: they eat no fish, though they
+come from the east side of Tanganyika, where fish are abundant and
+cheap; but though uglier, they have more of the sense of honour with
+traders than the aborigines.
+
+_29th June, 1868._--Observed the "smokes" to-day, the first of the
+season:[65] they obscured the whole country.
+
+_1st July, 1868._--I went over to Chikumbi, the paramount chief of
+this district, and gave him a cloth, begging a man to guide me to
+Bangweolo. He said that I was welcome to his country; all were so: I
+had better wait two days till he had selected a _good_ man as a guide,
+and he would send some food for me to eat in the journey--he would not
+say ten days, but only two, and his man would take me to the smaller
+part of the Lake, and leave others to forward me to the greater or
+Bangweolo. The smaller part is named Bemba, but that name is
+confusing, because Bemba is the name of the country in which a portion
+of the Lake lies. When asking for Lake Bemba, Kasongo's son said to
+me, "Bemba is not a lake, but a country:" it is therefore better to
+use the name BANGWEOLO, which is applied to the great mass of the
+water, though I fear that our English folks will bogle at it, or call
+it Bungyhollow! Some Arabs say Bambeolo as easier of pronunciation,
+but Bangweolo is the correct word. Chikumbi's stockade is 1-1/2 hour
+S.E. of our camp at Kizinga.
+
+_2nd July, 1868._--Writing to the Consul at Zanzibar to send supplies
+of cloth to Ujiji--120 pieces, 40 Kiniki; 80 merikano 34 inches broad,
+or samsam. Fine red beads--Talaka, 12 frasilas. I ask for soap,
+coffee, sugar, candles, sardines, French preserved meats, a cheese in
+tin, Nautical Almanac for 1869 and 1870, shoes (two or four pairs),
+ruled paper, pencils, sealing-wax, ink, powder, flannel-serge, 12
+frasila beads, 6 of Talaka; added 3 F. pale red, 3 W. white.
+
+_3rd July, 1868._--The summary of the sources which I have resolved to
+report as flowing into the central line of drainage formed by the
+Chambezé, Luapula, and Lualaba are thirteen in all, and each is larger
+than the Isis at Oxford, or Avon at Hamilton. Five flow into the
+eastern line of drainage going through Tanganyika, and five more into
+the western line of drainage or Lufira, twenty-three or more in all.
+The Lualaba and the Lufira unite in the Lake of the chief Kinkonza.
+
+_5th July, 1868._--I borrowed some paper from Mohamad Bogharib to
+write home by some Arabs going to the coast. I will announce my
+discovery to Lord Clarendon; but I reserve the parts of the Lualaba
+and Tanganyika for future confirmation. I have no doubts on the
+subject, for I receive the reports of natives of intelligence at first
+hand, and they have no motive for deceiving me. The best maps are
+formed from the same sort of reports at third or fourth hand. Cold
+N.E. winds prevail at present.
+
+_6th July, 1868._--Divided our salt that each may buy provisions for
+himself: it is here of more value than beads. Chikumbi sent fine
+flour, a load for two stout men carried in a large basket slung to a
+pole, and a fine fat sheep, carried too because it was too fat to walk
+the distance from his stockade.
+
+_7th, 8th, and 9th July, 1868._--After delaying several days to send
+our guide, Chikumbi said that he feared the country people would say
+that the Ingleza brought the Mazitu to them, and so blame will be
+given to him. I set this down as "words of pombe," beery babble; but
+after returning from Bangweolo, I saw that he must have been preparing
+to attack a stockade of Banyamwezi in our path, and had he given us a
+guide, that man would have been in danger in coming back: he therefore
+preferred the safety of his man to keeping his promise to me. I got a
+Banyamwezi guide, and left on the _10th July, 1868_, going over gently
+rising sandstone hills, covered with forest and seeing many deserted
+villages, the effects of the Mazitu foray: we saw also the Mazitu
+sleeping-places and paths. They neglect the common paths of the
+country as going from one village to another, and take straight
+courses in the direction they wish to go, treading down the grass so
+as to make a well-marked route, The Banyamwezi expelled them, cutting
+off so many of them with their guns and arrows that the marauders
+retired. The effect of this success on the minds of the Imboshwa, or
+Imbozhwas, as Chikumbi's people are called, was not gratitude, but
+envy at the new power sprung up among them of those who came
+originally as traders in copper.
+
+Kombokombo's stockade, the village to which we went this day, was the
+first object of assault, and when we returned, he told us that
+Chikumbi had assaulted him on three sides, but was repulsed. The
+Banyamwezi were, moreover, much too sharp as traders for the
+Imboshwa, cheating them unmercifully, and lying like Greeks.
+Kombokombo's stockade was on the Chibérasé River, which flows briskly,
+eight yards broad and deep, through a mile of sponge. We came in the
+midst of a general jollification, and were most bountifully supplied
+with pombe and food. The Banyamwezi acknowledge allegiance to the
+Sultan of Zanzibar, and all connected with him are respected.
+Kombokombo pressed food and drink on me, and when I told him that I
+had nothing to return for it, he said that he expected nothing: he was
+a child of the Sultan, and ought to furnish all I needed.
+
+_11th July, 1868._--On leaving the Chibérasé we passed up over a long
+line of hills with many villages and gardens, but mostly deserted
+during the Mazitu raid. The people fled into the forests on the hills,
+and were an easy prey to the marauders, who seem to have been
+unmerciful. When we descended into the valley beyond we came to a
+strong stockade, which had successfully resisted the onset of the
+Mazitu; we then entered on flat forest, with here and there sponges
+containing plenty of water; plains succeeded the hills, and continued
+all the way to Bangweolo. We made a fence in the forest; and next day
+_(12th July)_ reached the Rofuba, 50 yards broad and 4-1/2 feet deep,
+full of aquatic plants, and flowing south-west into the Luongo: it had
+about a mile and a half of sponge on each side of it. We encamped a
+little south of the river.
+
+_13th July, 1868._--On resting at a deserted spot, the men of a
+village in the vicinity came to us excited and apparently drunk, and
+began to work themselves up still more by running about, poising their
+spears at us, taking aim with their bows and arrows, and making as if
+about to strike with their axes: they thought that we were marauders,
+and some plants of ground-nuts strewn about gave colour to the idea.
+There is usually one good soul in such rabbles. In this case a man
+came to me, and, addressing his fellows, said, "This is only your
+pombe. White man, do not stand among them, but go away," and then he
+placed himself between me and a portion of the assailants, about
+thirty of whom were making their warlike antics. While walking quietly
+away with my good friend they ran in front and behind bushes and
+trees, took aim with bow and arrow, but none shot: the younger men ran
+away with our three goats. When we had gone a quarter of a mile my
+friend told me to wait and he would bring the goats, which he did: I
+could not feel the inebriates to be enemies; but in that state they
+are the worst one can encounter, for they have no fear as they have
+when sober. One snatched away a fowl from our guide, that too was
+restored by our friend. I did not load my gun; for any accidental
+discharge would have inflamed them to rashness. We got away without
+shedding blood, and were thankful. The Mazitu raid has produced
+lawlessness in the country: every one was taken as an enemy.
+
+_14th July, 1868._--We remained a day at the stockade of Moiéggéa. A
+Banyamwezi or Garaganza man is settled here in Kabaia's district, and
+on the strong rivulet called Mato. We felt secure only among the
+strangers, and they were friendly with us.
+
+_15th July, 1868._--At the village on the south bank of the Mpanda we
+were taken by the headman as Mazitu. He was evidently intoxicated, and
+began to shut his gates with frantic gesticulations. I offered to go
+away; but others of his people, equally intoxicated, insisted on my
+remaining. I sat down a little, but seeing that the chief was still
+alarmed, I said to his people, "The chief objects and I can't stay:"
+they saw the reasonableness of this, but I could not get my cowardly
+attendants to come on, though one said to me, "Come, I shall show you
+the way: we must speak nice to them." This the wise boys think the
+perfection of virtue, speaking nice means adopting a childish treble
+tone of voice and words exactly similar to those of the little Scotch
+girl who, passing through a meadow, was approached by a cow, probably
+from curiosity. To appease this enemy, she said, "Oh, coo, coo, if you
+no hurt me, I no hurt you." I told them to come on and leave them
+quietly, but they remained babbling with them. The guide said that
+there was no water in front: this I have been told too often ever to
+believe, so I went on through the forest, and in an hour and a half
+came to a sponge where, being joined by my attendants, we passed the
+night.
+
+_16th July, 1868._--Crossing this sponge, and passing through flat
+forest, we came to another named Méshwé, when there, as a contrast,
+the young men volunteered to carry me across; but I had got off my
+shoes, and was in the water, and they came along with me, showing the
+shallower parts. We finished the day's march by crossing the Molongosi
+spongy ooze, with 150 paces of deep water, flowing N.E. The water in
+these oozes or sponges felt very cold, though only 60° in the
+mornings, and 65° at midday. The Molongosi people invited us into the
+village; but the forest, unless when infested with leopards and lions,
+is always preferable, for one is free from vermin, and free from
+curiosity gazers, who in the village think they have a right to stare,
+but in the forest feel that they are not on an equality with
+strangers.
+
+[It was on the 18th of July, 1868, we see that Dr. Livingstone
+discovered one of the largest of the Central African Lakes. It is
+extraordinary to notice the total absence of all pride and enthusiasm,
+as--almost parenthetically--he records the fact.]
+
+_17th and 18th July, 1868._--Reached the chief village of Mapuni, near
+the north bank of Bangweolo. On the 18th I walked a little way out
+and saw the shores of the Lake for the first time, thankful that I had
+come safely hither.
+
+I told the chief that my goods were all expended, and gave him a
+fathom of calico as all I could spare: I told him that as soon as I
+had seen and measured the Lake I would return north; he replied, that
+seeing our goods were done he could say nothing, he would give me
+guides, and what else he should do was known to himself. He gave a
+public reception at once. I asked if he had ever seen anyone like me,
+and he said, "Never." A Babisa traveller asked me why I had come so
+far; I said I wished to make the country and people better known to
+the rest of the world, that we were all children of one Father, and I
+was anxious that we should know each other better, and that friendly
+visits should be made in safety. I told him what the Queen had done to
+encourage the growth of cotton on the Zambezi, and how we had been
+thwarted by slave-traders and their abettors: they were pleased with
+this. When asked I showed them my note-book, watch, compass,
+burning-glass, and was loudly drummed home.
+
+I showed them the Bible, and told them a little of its contents. I
+shall require a few days more at Bangweolo than I at first intended.
+The moon being in its last stage of waning I cannot observe till it is
+of some size.
+
+_19th July, 1868._--Went down to Masantu's village, which is on the
+shore of the Lake, and by a spring called Chipoka, which comes out of
+a mass of disintegrated granite. It is seldom that we see a spring
+welling out beneath a rock: they are covered by oozing sponges, if
+indeed they exist. Here we had as a spectator a man walking on stilts
+tied to his ankles and knees. There are a great many Babisa among the
+people. The women have their hair ornamented with strings of cowries,
+and well oiled with the oil and fat from the seeds of the Mosikisi
+trees. I sent the chief a fathom of calico, and got an audience at
+once. Masantu is an oldish man; had never prayed to the Great Father
+of all, though he said the footsteps of "Mungu," or Mulungu, could be
+seen on a part of Lifungé Island: a large footstep may also be seen on
+the rock at the Chambezé, about fifteen inches long. He informed us
+that the Lake is much the largest at the part called Bangweolo.
+
+The country around the Lake is all flat, and very much denuded of
+trees, except the Motsikiri or Mosikisi, which has fine dark, dense
+foliage, and is spared for its shade and the fatty oil yielded by its
+seeds: we saw the people boiling large pots full of the dark brown
+fat, which they use to lubricate their hair. The islands, four in
+number, are all flat, but well peopled. The men have many canoes, and
+are all expert fishermen; they are called Mboghwa, but are marked on
+the forehead and chin as Babisa, and file the teeth to points. They
+have many children, as fishermen usually have.
+
+_21st July, 1868._--Canoe-men are usually extortionate, because one
+cannot do without them. Mapuni claims authority over them, and sent to
+demand another fathom that he may give orders to them to go with us: I
+gave a hoe and a string of beads instead, but he insisted on the
+cloth, and kept the hoe too, as I could not afford the time to haggle.
+
+    Chipoka spring water at 9 A.M. 75° }
+    Lake water at same time  71°       } air 72°.
+
+    Chipoka spring at 4 P.M. 74° 5'    }
+    Lake water at same time 75°        } air 71° 5'; wet bulb 70°.
+
+No hot fountains or earthquakes are known in this region. The bottom
+of the Lake consists of fine white sand, and a broad belt of strong
+rushes, say 100 yards wide, shows shallow water. In the afternoons
+quite a crowd of canoes anchor at its outer edge to angle; the hooks
+are like ours, but without barbs. The fish are perch chiefly, but
+others similar to those that appear in the other Lakes are found, and
+two which attain the large size of 4 feet by 1-1/2 in. thickness: one
+is called Sampa.
+
+_22nd July, 1868._--A very high wind came with the new moon, and
+prevented our going, and also the fishermen from following their
+calling. Mapuni thought that we meant to make, an escape from him to
+the Babisa on the south, because we were taking our goats, I therefore
+left them and two attendants at Masantu's village to assure him.
+
+_23rd July, 1868._--Wind still too strong to go. Took lunars.
+
+_24th July, 1868._--Wind still strong.
+
+_25th July, 1868._--Strong S.E. wind still blowing, but having paid
+the canoe-men amply for four days with beads, and given Masantu a hoe
+and beads too, we embarked at 11.40 A.M. in a fine canoe, 45 feet
+long, 4 feet deep, and 4 feet broad. The waves were high, but the
+canoe was very dry and five stout men propelled her quickly towards an
+opening in Lifungé Island, on our S.E. Here we stopped to wood, and I
+went away to look at the island, which had the marks of hippopotami
+and a species of jackal on it: it had hard wiry grass, some flowers,
+and a species of Gapparidaceous tree. The trees showed well the
+direction of the prevailing wind to be south-east, for the branches on
+that side were stunted or killed, while those on the north-west ran
+out straight, and made the trees appear, as sailors say, lopsided: the
+trunks too were bent that way.
+
+The canoe-men now said that they would start, then that they would
+sleep here, because we could not reach the Island Mpabala before dark,
+and would not get a hut. I said that it would be sleeping out of doors
+only in either case, so they went. We could see the island called Kisi
+on our east, apparently a double island, about 15 miles off, and the
+tops of the trees barely visible on Mpabala on our south-east. It was
+all sea horizon on our south and north, between Lifungé and Mpabala,
+and between Lifungé and Kisi. We could not go to Kisi, because, as the
+canoe-men told us, they had stolen their canoe thence. Though we
+decided to go, we remained awhile to let the sea go down. A
+hammerhead's nest on one of the trees was fully four feet high. Coarse
+rushes show the shoals near the islands. Only one shell was seen on
+the shores. The canoe ships much less water in this surf than our boat
+did in that of Nyassa. The water is of a deep sea-green colour,
+probably from the reflection of the fine white sand of the bottom; we
+saw no part having the deep dark blue of Nyassa, and conjecture that
+the depth is not great; but I had to leave our line when Amoda
+absconded. On Kisi we observed a dark square mass, which at first I
+took to be a low hill: it turned out to be a mass of trees (probably
+the place of sepulture, for the graveyards are always untouched), and
+shows what a dense forest this land would become were it not for the
+influence of men.
+
+We reached Mpabala after dark. It was bitterly cold, from the amount
+of moisture in the air. I asked a man who came to see what the arrival
+was, for a hut; he said, "Do strangers require huts, or ask for them
+at night?" he then led us to the public place of meeting, called
+Nsaka, which is a large shed, with planks around and open spaces
+between, instead of walls; here we cooked a little porridge, and ate
+it, then I lay down on one side, with the canoe-men and my attendants
+at the fire in the middle, and was soon asleep, and dreamed that I had
+apartments in Mivart's Hotel. This made me feel much amused next day,
+for I never dream unless I am ill, or going to be ill; and of all
+places in the world, I never thought of Mivart's Hotel in my waking
+moments; a freak of the fancy surely, for I was not at all
+discontented with my fare, or apartment, I was only afraid of getting
+a stock of vermin from my associates.
+
+_26th July, 1868._--I have to stand the stare of a crowd of people at
+every new place for hours: all usually talk as quickly as their glib
+tongues can; these certainly do not belong to the tribes who are
+supposed to eke out their language by signs! A few indulge their
+curiosity in sight-seeing, but go on steadily weaving nets, or by
+beating bark-cloth, or in spinning cotton, others smoke their big
+tobacco pipes, or nurse a baby, or enjoy the heat of the bright
+morning sun. I walked across the north end of the island, and found it
+to be about one mile broad, I also took bearings of Chirubi Island
+from the eastern point of Mpabala, and found from the south-east point
+of Chirubi that there are 183° of sea horizon from it to the point of
+departure of the Luapula. Chirubi is the largest of the islands, and
+contains a large population, possessing many sheep and goats. At the
+highest part of Mpabala we could see the tops of the trees on Kasango,
+a small uninhabited islet, about thirty miles distant: the tops of the
+trees were evidently lifted up by the mirage, for near the shore and
+at other parts they were invisible, even with a good glass. This
+uninhabited islet would have been our second stage had we been allowed
+to cross the Lake, as it is of the people themselves; it is as far
+beyond it to the mainland, called Manda, as from Masantu's to Mpabala.
+
+_27th July, 1868._--Took lunars and stars for latitude.
+
+The canoe-men now got into a flurry, because they were told here that
+the Kisi men had got an inkling that their canoe was here, and were
+coming to take it; they said to me that they would come back for me,
+but I could not trust thieves to be so honest. I thought of seizing
+their paddles, and appealing to the headmen of the island; but aware
+from past experience how easy it is for acknowledged thieves like them
+to get up a tale to secure the cheap sympathy of the soft-headed, or
+tender-hearted, I resolved to bear with meekness, though groaning
+inwardly, the loss of two of the four days for which I had paid them.
+I had only my coverlet to hire another canoe, and it was now very
+cold; the few beads left would all be required to buy food in the way
+back, I might have got food by shooting buffaloes, but that on foot
+and through grass, with stalks as thick as a goose quill, is
+dreadfully hard work; I had thus to return to Masantu's, and trust to
+the distances as deduced from the time taken by the natives in their
+canoes for the size of the Lake.
+
+We had come to Mpabala at the rate of six knots an hour, and returned
+in the same time with six stout paddlers. The latitude was 12' in a
+south-east course, which may give 24' as the actual distance. To the
+sleeping-place, the Islet Kasango, there was at least 28' more, and
+from thence to the mainland "Manda," other 28'. This 24 + 28 + 28 =
+80' as the breadth from Masantu village, looking south-east. It lies
+in 11° 0' S. If we add on the half distance to this we have 11° 40' as
+the latitude of Manda. The mainland to the south of Mpabala is called
+Kabendé. The land's end running south of Masantu's village is the
+entrance to the Luapula: the clearest eye cannot see across it there.
+I saw clouds as if of grass burning, but they were probably "Kungu,"
+an edible insect, whose masses have exactly the same appearance as
+they float above and on the water. From the time the canoes take to go
+to Kabendé I believe the southern shore to be a little into 12° of
+south latitude: the length, as inferred from canoes taking ten days to
+go from Mpabala to the Chambezé, I take to be 150 miles, probably
+more. No one gave a shorter time than that. The Luapula is an arm of
+the Lake for some twenty miles, and beyond that is never narrower than
+from 180 to 200 yards, generally much broader, and may be compared
+with the Thames at London Bridge: I think that I am considerably
+within the mark in setting down Bangweolo as 150 miles long by 80
+broad.
+
+When told that it contained four large islands, I imagined that these
+would considerably diminish the watery acreage of the whole, as is
+said to be the case with five islands in Ukerewé; but even the largest
+island, Chirubi, does not in the least dwarf the enormous mass of the
+water of Bangweolo. A range of mountains, named Lokinga, extends from
+the south-east to the south-west: some small burns come down from
+them, but no river; this range joins the Koné, or Mokoné range, west
+of Katanga, from which on one side rises the Lufira, and on the other
+the Liambai, or Zambesi. The river of Manda, called Matanga, is only a
+departing and re-entering branch of the Lake, also the Luma and Loéla
+rivers--some thirty yards broad--have each to be examined as springs
+on the south of the Lake.
+
+_July 29th, 1868._--Not a single case of Derbyshire neck, or of
+Elephantiasis, was observed anywhere near the Lake, consequently the
+report we had of its extreme unhealthiness was erroneous: no muddy
+banks did we see, but in the way to it we had to cross so many
+sponges, or oozes, that the word _matopé_, mud, was quite applicable;
+and I suspect, if we had come earlier, that we should have experienced
+great difficulty in getting to the Lake at all.
+
+_30th July, 1868._--We commenced our march back, being eager to get to
+Chikumbi's in case Mohamad should go thence to Katanga. We touched at
+Mapuni's, and then went on to the Molongosi. Clouds now began to cover
+the sky to the Mpanda, which has fifteen yards of flood, though the
+stream itself is only five yards wide, then on to the Mato and
+Moiéggé's stockade, where we heard of Chikumbi's attack on
+Kombokombo's. Moiéggé had taken the hint, and was finishing a second
+line of defence around his village: we reached him on the 1st August,
+1868, and stopped for Sunday the 2nd: on the 3rd back to the Rofubu,
+where I was fortunate enough to hire a canoe to take me over.
+
+In examining a tsetse fly very carefully I see that it has a
+receptacle at the root of the piercer, which is of a black or dark-red
+colour; and when it is squeezed, a clear fluid is pressed out at its
+point: the other two parts of the proboscis are its shield, and have
+no bulb at the base. The bulb was pronounced at the Royal Society to
+be only muscle, but it is curious that muscle should be furnished
+where none is needed, and withheld in the movable parts of the shield
+where it is decidedly needed.
+
+_5th August, 1868._--Reach Kombokombo, who is very liberal, and
+pressed us to stay a day with him as well as with others; we complied,
+and found that Mohamad had gone nowhere.
+
+_7th August, 1868._--We found a party starting from Kizinga for the
+coast, having our letters with them; it will take five months to reach
+the sea. The disturbed state of the country prevented parties of
+traders proceeding in various directions, and one that set off on the
+same day with us was obliged to return. Mohamad has resolved to go to
+Manyuema as soon as parties of his men now out return: this is all in
+my favour; it is in the way I want to go to see the Lualaba and Lufira
+to Chowambé. The way seems opening out before me, and I am thankful. I
+resolved to go north by way of Casembe, and guides were ready to
+start, so was I; but rumours of war where we were going induced me to
+halt to find out the truth: the guides (Banyamwezi) were going to
+divine, by means of a cock, to see if it would be lucky to go with me
+at present. The rumours of danger became so circumstantial that our
+fence was needed: a well was dug inside, and the Banyamwezi were
+employed to smelt copper as for the market of Manyuema, and balls for
+war. Syde bin Omar soon came over the Luapula from Iramba, and the
+state of confusion induced the traders to agree to unite their forces
+and make a safe retreat out of the country. They objected very
+strongly to my going away down the right bank of the Luapula with my
+small party, though it was in sight, so I resolved to remain till all
+went.
+
+_13th August, 1868._--The Banyamwezi use a hammer shaped like a cone,
+without a handle. They have both kinds of bellows, one of goatskin the
+other of wood, with a skin over the mouth of a drum, and a handle tied
+to the middle of it; with these they smelt pieces of the large bars of
+copper into a pot, filled nearly full of wood ashes. The fire is
+surrounded by masses of anthills, and in these there are hollows made
+to receive the melted metal: the metal is poured while the pot is held
+with the hands, protected by wet rags.
+
+_15th August, 1868._--Bin Omar, a Suaheli, came from Muaboso on
+Chambezé in six days, crossing in that space twenty-two burns or
+oozes, from knee to waist deep.
+
+Very high and cold winds prevail at present. It was proposed to punish
+Chikumbi when Syde bin Omar came, as he is in debt and refuses
+payment; but I go off to Casembe.
+
+I learn that there is another hot fountain in the Baloba country,
+called Fungwé; this, with Kapira and Vana, makes three hot fountains
+in this region.
+
+Some people were killed in my path to Casembe, so this was an
+additional argument against my going that way.
+
+Some Banyamwezi report a tribe--the Bonyolo--that extract the upper
+front teeth, like Batoka; they are near Loanda, and Lake Chipokola is
+there, probably the same as Kinkonza. Feeling my way. All the trees
+are now pushing out fresh young leaves of different colours: winds
+S.E. Clouds of upper stratum N.W.
+
+_29th August, 1868._--Kaskas began to-day hot and sultry. This will
+continue till rains fall. Rumours of wars perpetual and near; and one
+circumstantial account of an attack made by the Bausé. That again
+contradicted. _(31st August, 1868.)_ Rain began here this evening,
+quite remarkable and exceptional, as it precedes the rains generally
+off the watershed by two months at least: it was a thunder shower,
+and it and another on the evening of the second were quite partial.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[As we shall see, he takes advantage of his late experience to work
+out an elaborate treatise on the climate of this region, which is
+exceedingly important, bearing, as it does, upon the question of the
+periodical floods on the rivers which drain the enormous cistern-lakes
+of Central Africa.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The notion of a rainy zone, in which the clouds deposit their
+treasures in perpetual showers, has received no confirmation from my
+observations. In 1866-7, the rainfall was 42 inches. In 1867-8, it
+amounted to 53 inches: this is nearly the same as falls in the same
+latitudes on the West Coast. In both years the rains ceased entirely
+in May, and with the exception of two partial thunder showers on the
+middle of the watershed, no rain fell till the middle and end of
+October, and then, even in November, it was partial, and limited to
+small patches of country; but scarcely a day passed between October
+and May without a good deal of thunder. When the thunder began to roll
+or rumble, that was taken by the natives as an indication of the near
+cessation of the rains. The middle of the watershed is the most humid
+part: one sees the great humidity of its climate at once in the trees,
+old and young, being thickly covered with lichens; some flat, on the
+trunks and branches; others long and thready, like the beards of old
+men waving in the wind. Large orchids on the trees in company with the
+profusion of lichens are seen nowhere else, except in the mangrove
+swamps of the sea-coast.
+
+I cannot account for the great humidity of the watershed as compared
+with the rest of the country, but by the prevailing winds and the
+rains being from the south-east, and thus from the Indian Ocean: with
+this wind generally on the surface one can observe an upper strong
+wind from the north-west, that is, from the low humid West Coast and
+Atlantic Ocean. The double strata of winds can easily be observed when
+there are two sheets of clouds, or when burning grass over scores of
+square miles sends up smoke sufficiently high to be caught by the
+upper or north-west wind. These winds probably meet during the heavy
+rains: now in August they overlap each other. The probability arises
+from all continued rains within the tropics coming in the opposite
+direction from the prevailing wind of the year. Partial rains are
+usually from the south-east.
+
+The direction of the prevailing wind of this region is well marked on
+the islands in Lake Bangweolo: the trunks are bent away from the
+south-east, and the branches on that side are stunted or killed; while
+those on the north-west run out straight and make the trees appear
+lopsided. The same bend away from the south-east is seen on all
+exposed situations, as in the trees covering the brow of a hill. At
+Kizinga, which is higher than the Lake, the trees are covered with
+lichens, chiefly on the south-east sides, and on the upper surfaces of
+branches, running away horizontally to or from the north-west. Plants
+and trees, which elsewhere in Africa grow only on the banks of streams
+and other damp localities, are seen flourishing all over the country:
+the very rocks are covered with lichens, and their crevices with
+ferns.
+
+But that which demonstrates the humidity of the climate most
+strikingly is the number of earthen sponges or oozes met with. In
+going to Bangweolo from Kizinga, I crossed twenty-nine of these
+reservoirs in thirty miles of latitude, on a south-east course: this
+may give about one sponge for every two miles. The word "Bog" conveys
+much of the idea of these earthen sponges; but it is inseparably
+connected in our minds with peat, and these contain not a particle of
+peat, they consist of black porous earth, covered with a hard wiry
+grass, and a few other damp-loving plants. In many places the sponges
+hold large quantities of the oxide of iron, from the big patches of
+brown haematite that crop out everywhere, and streams of this oxide,
+as thick as treacle, are seen moving slowly along in the sponge-like
+small red glaciers. When one treads on the black earth of the sponge,
+though little or no water appears on the surface, it is frequently
+squirted up the limbs, and gives the idea of a sponge. In the paths
+that cross them, the earth readily becomes soft mud, but sinks rapidly
+to the bottom again, as if of great specific gravity: the water in
+them is always circulating and oozing. The places where the sponges
+are met with are slightly depressed valleys without trees or bushes,
+in a forest country where the grass being only a foot or fifteen
+inches high, and thickly planted, often looks like a beautiful glade
+in a gentleman's park in England. They are from a quarter of a mile to
+a mile broad, and from two to ten or more miles long. The water of the
+heavy rains soaks into the level forest lands: one never sees runnels
+leading it off, unless occasionally a footpath is turned to that use.
+The water, descending about eight feet, comes to a stratum of yellow
+sand, beneath which there is another stratum of fine white sand, which
+at its bottom cakes, so as to hold the water from sinking further.
+
+It is exactly the same as we found in the Kalahari Desert, in digging
+sucking places for water for our oxen. The water, both here and there,
+is guided by the fine sand stratum into the nearest valley, and here
+it oozes forth on all sides through the thick mantle of black porous
+earth, which forms the sponge. There, in the desert, it appears to
+damp the surface sands in certain valleys, and the Bushmen, by a
+peculiar process, suck out a supply. When we had dug down to the caked
+sand there years ago, the people begged us not to dig further, as the
+water would all run away; and we desisted, because we saw that the
+fluid poured in from the fine sand all round the well, but none came
+from the bottom or cake. Two stupid Englishmen afterwards broke
+through the cake in spite of the entreaties of the natives, and the
+well and the whole valley dried up hopelessly. Here the water, oozing
+forth from the surface of the sponge mantle, collects in the centre of
+the slightly depressed valley which it occupies, and near the head of
+the depression forms a sluggish stream; but further down, as it meets
+with more slope, it works out for itself a deeper channel, with
+perpendicular banks, with, say, a hundred or more yards of sponge on
+each side, constantly oozing forth fresh supplies to augment its size.
+When it reaches rocky ground it is a perennial burn, with many aquatic
+plants growing in its bottom. One peculiarity would strike anyone: the
+water never becomes discoloured or muddy. I have seen only one stream
+muddied in flood, the Choma, flowing through an alluvial plain in
+Lopéré. Another peculiarity is very remarkable; it is, that after the
+rains have entirely ceased, these burns have their largest flow, and
+cause inundations. It looks as if towards the end of the rainy season
+the sponges were lifted up by the water off their beds, and the pores
+and holes, being enlarged, are all employed to give off fluid. The
+waters of inundation run away. When the sponges are lifted up by
+superabundance of water, all the pores therein are opened: as the
+earthen mantle subsides again, the pores act like natural valves, and
+are partially closed, and by the weight of earth above them, the water
+is thus prevented from running away altogether; time also being
+required to wet all the sand through which the rains soak, the great
+supply may only find its way to the sponge a month or so after the
+great rains have fallen.
+
+I travelled in Lunda, when the sponges were all supersaturated. The
+grassy sward was so lifted up that it was separated into patches or
+tufts, and if the foot missed the row of tufts of this wiry grass
+which formed the native path, down one plumped up to the thigh in
+slush. At that time we could cross the sponge only by the native
+paths, and the central burn only where they had placed bridges:
+elsewhere they were impassable, as they poured off the waters of
+inundation: our oxen were generally bogged--all four legs went down up
+to the body at once. When they saw the clear sandy bottom of the
+central burn they readily went in, but usually plunged right over
+head, leaving their tail up in the air to show the nervous shock they
+had sustained.
+
+These sponges are a serious matter in travelling. I crossed the
+twenty-nine already mentioned at the end of the fourth month of the
+dry season, and the central burns seemed then to have suffered no
+diminution: they were then from calf to waist deep, and required from
+fifteen to forty minutes in crossing; they had many deep holes in the
+paths, and when one plumps therein every muscle in the frame receives
+a painful jerk. When past the stream, and apparently on partially dry
+ground, one may jog in a foot or more, and receive a squirt of black
+mud up the thighs: it is only when you reach the trees and are off the
+sour land that you feel secure from mud and leeches. As one has to
+strip the lower part of the person in order to ford them, I found that
+often four were as many as we could cross in a day. Looking up these
+sponges a bird's-eye view would closely resemble the lichen-like
+vegetation of frost on window panes; or that vegetation in
+Canada-balsam which mad philosophical instrument makers _will_ put
+between the lenses of the object-glasses of our telescopes. The flat,
+or nearly flat, tops of the subtending and transverse ridges of this
+central country give rise to a great many: I crossed twenty-nine, a
+few of the feeders of Bangweolo, in thirty miles of latitude in one
+direction. Burns are literally innumerable: rising on the ridges, or
+as I formerly termed them mounds, they are undoubtedly the primary or
+ultimate sources of the Zambezi, Congo, and Nile: by their union are
+formed streams of from thirty to eighty or 100 yards broad, and always
+deep enough to require either canoes or bridges. These I propose to
+call the secondary sources, and as in the case of the Nile they are
+drawn off by three lines of drainage, they become the head waters (the
+_caput_ Nili) of the river of Egypt.
+
+Thanks to that all-embracing Providence, which has watched over and
+enabled me to discover what I have done. There is still much to do,
+and if health and protection be granted I shall make a complete thing
+of it.
+
+[Then he adds in a note a little further on:--]
+
+But few of the sponges on the watershed ever dry; elsewhere many do;
+the cracks in their surface are from 15 to 18 inches deep, with lips
+from 2 to 3 inches apart. Crabs and other animals in clearing out
+their runs reveal what I verified by actually digging wells at Kizinga
+and in Kabuiré, and also observed in the ditches 15 feet deep dug by
+the natives round many of their stockades, that the sponge rests on a
+stratum of fine white washed sand. These cracks afford a good idea of
+the effect of the rains: the partial thunder-showers of October,
+November, December, and even January, produce no effect on them; it is
+only when the sun begins to return from his greatest southern
+declination that the cracks close their large lips. The whole sponge
+is borne up, and covers an enormous mass of water, oozing forth in
+March and April forming the inundations. These floods in the Congo,
+Zambesi, and Nile require different times to reach the sea. The bulk
+of the Zambesi is further augmented by the greater rains finding many
+pools in the beds of its feeders filled in February, as soon as the
+sun comes north.
+
+_Mem._--In apparent contradiction of the foregoing, so far as touches
+the sources of the Zambesi, Syde bin Habib informed me a few days ago
+that he visited the sources of the Liambai and of the Lufira. Each
+comes out of a fountain; the Lufira one is called Changozi, and is
+small, and in a wood of large trees S.W. of Katanga; the fountain of
+the Liambai is so large that one cannot call to a person on the other
+side, and he appears also very small there--the two fountains are just
+five hours distant from each other. He is well acquainted with the
+Liambai (Leeambye), where I first met him. Lunga, another river, comes
+out of nearly the same spot which goes into the Leuńge, Kafué (?).
+Lufira is less than Kalongosi up there; that is less than 80 or 200
+yards, and it has deep waterfalls in it. The Koné range comes down
+north, nearly to Mpméto's. Mkana is the chief of the stone houses in
+the Baloba, and he may be reached by three days of hard travelling
+from Mpwéto's; Lufira is then one long day west. As Muabo refuses to
+show me his "mita," "miengelo," or "mpamankanana" as they are called,
+I must try and get to those of the Baloba of Mkana.
+
+Senegal swallows pair in the beginning of December.
+
+
+_Note_.--Inundation.
+
+The inundation I have explained in the note on the climate as owing to
+the sponges being supersaturated in the greater rains, when the sun
+returns from his greatest southern declination, the pores are then all
+enlarged, and the water of inundation flows in great volume even after
+the rains have entirely ceased. Something has probably to be learned
+from the rainfall at or beyond the equator, as the sun pursues his way
+north beyond my beat, but the process I have named accounts
+undoubtedly for the inundations of the Congo and Zambesi. The most
+acute of the ancients ascribed the inundation with Strabo to summer
+rains in the south; others to snows melting on the Mountains of the
+Moon; others to the northern wind--the Etesian breezes blowing
+directly against the mouth of the river and its current: others, with
+less reason, ascribed the inundation to its having its source in the
+ocean: Herodotus and Pliny to evaporation following the course of the
+sun.
+
+_1st September, 1868._--Two men come from Casembe--I am reported
+killed. The miningo-tree distils water, which falls in large drops.
+The Luapula seen when the smoke clears off. Fifty of Syde bin Omar's
+people died of small-pox in Usafa. _Mem._ Vaccine virus. We leave on
+the 25th, east bank of Moisi River, and cross the Luongo on the 28th,
+the Lofubu on the 1st October, and the Kalongosi on the 7th.
+
+[Dr. Livingstone seems to have been unable to find opportunity to make
+daily entries at this period. All was turmoil and panic, and his life
+appears to have been in imminent danger. Briefly we see that on his
+way back from the Lake he found that his Arab associates of the last
+few months had taken up Casembe's cause against the devastating hordes
+of Mazitu, who had swept down on these parts, and had repulsed them.
+But now a fresh complication arose! Casembe and Chikumbi became
+alarmed lest the Arabs, feeling their own power, should turn upon them
+and possess the whole country, so they joined forces and stormed
+Kombokombo, one of the leading Arabs, and with what success we shall
+see. It is a fair specimen of the unaccountable complications which
+dog the steps of the traveller, where war is afoot, and render life a
+misery. He writes as follows on the 5th October:--]
+
+I was detained in the Imbozhwa country much longer than I relished.
+The inroad of the Mazitu, of which Casembe had just heard when we
+reached the Mofwé, was the first cause of delay: he had at once sent
+off men to verify the report, and requested me to remain till his
+messengers should return. This foray produced a state of lawlessness
+in the country, which was the main reason of our further detention.
+
+The Imbozhwa fled before the marauders, and the Banyamwezi or
+Garaganza, who had come in numbers to trade in copper, took on
+themselves the duty of expelling the invaders, and this, by means of
+their muskets, they did effectually, then, building stockades they
+excited the jealousy of the Imbozhwa lords of the soil who, instead of
+feeling grateful, hated the new power thus sprung up among them! They
+had suffered severely from the sharp dealing of the strangers already,
+and Chikumbi made a determined assault on the stockade of Kombokombo
+in vain.
+
+Confusion prevailed all over the country. Some Banyamwezi assumed the
+offensive against the Baüsi, who resemble the Imbozhwa, but are
+further south, and captured and sold some prisoners: it was in this
+state of things that, as already mentioned, I was surrounded by a
+party of furious Imbozhwa. A crowd stood within fifteen or twenty
+yards with spears poised and arrows set in the bowstrings, and some
+took aim at me: they took us for plunderers, and some plants of
+ground-nuts thrown about gave colour to their idea. One good soul
+helped us away--a blessing be on him and his. Another chief man took
+us for Mazitu! In this state of confusion Cazembe heard that my party
+had been cut off: he called in Moenempanda and took the field in
+person, in order to punish the Banyamwezi, against whom he has an old
+grudge for killing a near relative of his family, selling Baüsi, and
+setting themselves up as a power in his country.
+
+The two Arab traders now in the country felt that they must unite
+their forces, and thereby effect a safe retreat. Chikumbi had kept
+twenty-eight tusks for Syde bin Omar safely; but the coming of Casembe
+might have put it out of his power to deliver up his trust in safety,
+for an army here is often quite lawless: each man takes to himself
+what he can. When united we marched from Kizinga on 23rd September
+together, built fences every night to protect ourselves and about 400
+Banyamwezi, who took the opportunity to get safely away. Kombokombo
+came away from his stockade, and also part of the way, but cut away by
+night across country to join the parties of his countrymen who still
+love to trade in Katanga copper. We were not molested, but came nearly
+north to the Kalongosi. Syde parted from us, and went away east to
+Mozamba, and thence to the coast.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[64] The allusion is to Mrs. Livingstone's grave.
+
+[65] At one season the long grass which covers the face of the country
+catches fire. For some three months the air is consequently filled
+with smoke.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    Cataracts of the Kalongosi. Passage of the river disputed.
+    Leeches and method of detaching them. Syde bin Habib's slaves
+    escape. Enormous collection of tusks. III. Theory of the Nile
+    sources. Tribute to Miss Tinné. Notes on climate. Separation of
+    Lake Nyassa from the Nile system. Observations on Victoria
+    Nyanza. Slaves dying. Repentant deserters. Mohamad Bogharib.
+    Enraged Imbozhwa. An attack. Narrow escape. Renewed attack. A
+    parley. Help arrives. Bin Juma. March from the Imbozhwa country.
+    Slaves escape. Burial of Syde bin Habib's brother. Singular
+    custom. An elephant killed. Native game-laws. Rumour of Baker's
+    Expedition. Christmas dinners.
+
+
+_11th October, 1868._--From Kizinga north the country is all covered
+with forest, and thrown up into ridges of hardened sandstone, capped
+occasionally with fine-grained clay schist. Trees often appear of
+large size and of a species closely resembling the gum-copal tree; on
+the heights masukos and rhododendrons are found, and when exposed they
+are bent away from the south-east. Animals, as buffaloes and
+elephants, are plentiful, but wild. Rivulets numerous, and running now
+as briskly as brooks do after much rain in England. All on the
+south-western side of Kalongosi are subjects of Casembe, that is
+Balunda, or Imbozhwa.
+
+It was gratifying to see the Banyamwezi carrying their sick in cots
+slung between two men: in the course of time they tired of this, and
+one man, who was carried several days, remained with Chuma. We crossed
+the Luongo far above where we first became acquainted with it, and
+near its source in Urungu or Usungu Hills, then the Lobubu, a goodly
+stream thirty yards broad and rapid with fine falls above our ford,
+which goes into Kalongosi.
+
+_6th October, 1868._--Cross the Papusi, and a mile beyond the Luéna of
+forty yards and knee deep; here we were met by about 400 of Kabanda's
+men, as if they were come to dispute our passage at the ford: I went
+over; all were civil; but had we shown any weakness they would no
+doubt have taken advantage of it.
+
+_7th October, 1868._--We came to the Kalongosi, flowing over five
+cataracts made by five islets in a place called Kabwérumé. Near the
+Mebamba a goodly rivulet joins it.
+
+_12th October, 1868._--We came to the Kalongosi at the ford named
+Mosolo: by pacing I found it to be 240 yards broad, and thigh deep at
+the end of the dry season, it ran so strongly that it was with
+difficulty I could keep my feet. Here 500 at least of Nsama's people
+stood on the opposite shore to know what we wanted. Two fathoms of
+calico were sent over, and then I and thirty guns went over to protect
+the people in the ford: as we approached they retired. I went to them,
+and told them that I had been to Nsama's, and he gave me a goat and
+food, and we were good friends: some had seen me there, and they now
+crowded to look till the Arabs thought it unsafe for me to be among
+them: if I had come with bared skin they would have fled. All became
+friendly: an elephant was killed, and we remained two days buying
+food. We passed down between the ranges of hills on the east of Moero,
+the path we followed when we first visited Casembe.
+
+_20th and 21st October, 1868._--From the Luao I went over to the chief
+village of Muabo, and begged him to show me the excavations in his
+country: he declined, by saying that I came from a crowd of people,
+and must go to Kabwabwata, and wait awhile there, meanwhile he would
+think what he should do, whether to refuse or invite me to come. He
+evidently does not wish me to see his strongholds. All his people
+could go into them, though over ten thousand: they are all abundantly
+supplied with water, and they form the storehouses for grain.
+
+_22nd October, 1868._--We came to Kabwabwata, and I hope I may find a
+way to other underground houses. It is probable that they are not the
+workmanship of the ancestors of the present occupants, for they
+ascribe their formation invariably to the Deity, Mulungu or Réza: if
+their forefathers had made them, some tradition would have existed of
+them.
+
+_23rd October, 1868._--Syde bin Habib came over from Mpwéto's; he
+reports Lualaba and Lufira flowing into the Lake of Kinkonza.
+Lungabalé is paramount chief of Rua.
+
+Mparahala horns measured three feet long and three inches in diameter
+at the base: this is the yellow kualata of Makololo, bastard gemsbuck
+of the Dutch.
+
+_27th, 29th, and 30th October, 1868._--Salem bin Habib was killed by
+the people in Rua: he had put up a tent and they attacked it in the
+night, and stabbed him through it. Syde bin Habib waged a war of
+vengeance all through Rua after this for the murder of his brother:
+Sef's raid may have led the people to the murder.
+
+_29th October, 1868._--In coming north in September and October, the
+last months of the dry season, I crossed many burns flowing quite in
+the manner of our brooks at home, after a great deal of rain; here,
+however, the water was clear, and the banks not abraded in the least.
+Some rivulets had a tinge of white in them, as if of felspar in
+disintegrating granite; some nearly stagnant burns had as if milk and
+water in them, and some red oxide of iron.
+
+Where leeches occur they need no coaxing to bite, but fly at the white
+skin like furies, and refuse to let go: with the fingers benumbed,
+though the water is only 60°, one may twist them round the finger and
+tug, but they slip through. I saw the natives detaching them with a
+smart slap of the palm, and found it quite effectual.
+
+Swifts, Senegal swallows, and common dark-bellied swallows appeared at
+Kizinga in the beginning of October: other birds, as drongo shrikes, a
+bird with a reddish bill, but otherwise like a grey linnet, keep in
+flocks yet. _(5th December.)_ They pair now. The kite came sooner than
+the swallows; I saw the first at Bangweolo on the 20th July, 1868.
+
+_1st November, 1868._--At Kabwabwata; we are waiting till Syde comes
+up that we may help him. He has an enormous number of tusks and bars
+of copper, sufficient it seems for all his people to take forward,
+going and returning three times over. He has large canoes on the Lake,
+and will help us in return.
+
+_2nd November, 1868._--News came yesterday from Mpwéto's that
+twenty-one slaves had run away from Syde bin Habib at one time: they
+were Rua people, and out of the chains, as they were considered safe
+when fairly over the Lualaba, but they showed their love of liberty on
+the first opportunity. Mpwéto is suspected to have harboured them, or
+helped them over the river; this will probably lead to Syde attacking
+him, as he has done to so many chiefs in Rua. In this case Mpwéto will
+have no sympathy; he is so wanting in the spirit of friendliness to
+others.
+
+_3rd November, 1868._--Sent off men to hasten Syde onwards. We start
+in two or three days.
+
+The oldest map known to be in existence is the map of the Ethiopian
+Goldmines, dating from the time of Sethos I., the father of Rameses
+II., long enough before the time of the bronze tablet of Aristagoras,
+on which was inscribed the circuit of the whole earth, and all the sea
+and all rivers. (Tylor, p. 90, quoted from Birch's _Archaeologia_,
+vol. xxxiv. p. 382.) Sesostris was the first to distribute his maps.
+
+_8th November, 1868._--Syde bin Habib is said to have amassed 150
+frasilahs of ivory = 5250 lbs., and 300 frasilahs of copper = 10,500
+lbs. With one hundred carriers he requires to make four relays, or
+otherwise make the journey four times over at every stage. Twenty-one
+of his slaves ran away in one night, and only four were caught again:
+they were not all bought, nor was the copper and ivory come at by fair
+means; the murder of his brother was a good excuse for plunder,
+murder, and capture. Mpwéto is suspected of harbouring them as living
+on the banks of the Lualaba, for they could not get over without
+assistance from his canoes and people. Mpwéto said, "Remove from me,
+and we shall see if they come this way." They are not willing to
+deliver fugitives up. Syde senŁ for Elmas, the only thing of the
+Mullam or clerical order here, probably to ask if the Koran authorizes
+him to attack Mpwéto. Mullam will reply, "Yes, certainly. If Mpwéto
+won't restore your slaves, take what you can by force." Syde's
+bloodshed is now pretty large, and he is becoming afraid for his own
+life; if he ceases not, he will himself be caught some day.
+
+Ill of fever two days. Better and thankful.
+
+[Whilst waiting to start for Ujiji, Livingstone was intently occupied
+on the great problem of the Nile and the important part he had taken
+so recently in solving it: he writes at this date as follows:--]
+
+   The discovery of the sources of the Nile is somewhat akin in
+   importance to the discovery of the North-West Passage, which
+   called forth, though in a minor degree, the energy, the
+   perseverance, and the pluck of Englishmen, and anything that does
+   that is beneficial to the nation and to its posterity. The
+   discovery of the sources of the Nile possesses, moreover, an
+   element of interest which the North-West Passage never had. The
+   great men of antiquity have recorded their ardent desires to know
+   the fountains of what Homer called "_Egypt's heaven-descended
+   spring._" Sesostris, the first who in camp with his army made and
+   distributed maps, not to Egyptians only, but to the Scythians,
+   naturally wished to know the springs, says Eustathius, of the
+   river on whose banks he flourished. Alexander the Great, who
+   founded a celebrated city at this river's-mouth, looked up the
+   stream with the same desire, and so did the Caesars. The great
+   Julius Caesar is made by Lucan to say that he would give up the
+   civil war if he might but see the fountains of this far-famed
+   river. Nero Caesar sent two centurions to examine the "_Caput
+   Nili_." They reported that they saw the river rushing with great
+   force from two rocks, and beyond that it was lost in immense
+   marshes. This was probably "native information," concerning the
+   cataracts of the Nile and a long space above them, which had
+   already been enlarged by others into two hills with sharp conical
+   tops called Crophi and Mophi--midway between which lay the
+   fountains of the Nile--fountains which it was impossible to
+   fathom, and which gave forth half their water to Ethiopia in the
+   south, and the other half to Egypt in the north: that which these
+   men failed to find, and that which many great minds in ancient
+   times longed to know, has in this late age been brought to light
+   by the patient toil and laborious perseverance of Englishmen.[66]
+
+   In laying a contribution to this discovery at the feet of his
+   countrymen, the writer desires to give all the honour to his
+   predecessors which they deserve. The work of Speke and Grant is
+   deserving of the highest commendation, inasmuch as they opened up
+   an immense tract of previously unexplored country, in the firm
+   belief they were bringing to light the head of the Nile. No one
+   can appreciate the difficulties of their feat unless he has gone
+   into new country. In association with Captain Burton, Speke came
+   much nearer to the "coy fountains," than at the Victoria Nyanza,
+   but they all turned their backs on them. Mr. Baker showed courage
+   and perseverance worthy of an Englishman in following out the
+   hints given by Speke and Grant. But none rises higher in my
+   estimation than the Dutch lady Miss Tinné, who, after the
+   severest domestic afflictions, nobly persevered in the teeth of
+   every difficulty, and only turned away from the object of her
+   expedition, after being assured by Speke and Grant that they had
+   already discovered in Victoria Nyanza the sources she sought. Had
+   they not given their own mistaken views, the wise foresight by
+   which she provided a steamer, would inevitably have led her to
+   pull up, and by canoes to reach Lake Bangweolo's sources full
+   five hundred miles south of the most southerly part of Victoria
+   Nyanza. She evidently possesses some of the indomitable pluck of
+   Van Tromp, whose tomb every Englishman who goes to Holland must
+   see.[67] Her doctor was made a baron--were she not a Dutch lady
+   already we think she ought to be made a duchess.
+
+   By way of contrast with what, if I live through it, I shall have
+   to give, I may note some of the most prominent ideas entertained
+   of this world-renowned river. Ptolemy, a geographer who lived in
+   the second century, and was not a king of Egypt, with the most
+   ancient maps made the Nile rise from the "Montes Lunae," between
+   ten and twelve south lat., by six several streams which flowed
+   north into two Lakes, situated east and west of each other.
+   These streams flowed about west of his river Rhapta, or Raptus,
+   which is probably our Rovuma or Louma. This was very near the
+   truth, but the Mountains of the Moon cannot be identified with
+   the Lokinga, or mountains of Bisa, from which many of the springs
+   do actually arise. Unless, indeed, we are nearer to the great
+   alterations in climate which have taken place, as we are supposed
+   to be nearer the epoch of the mammoth, aurochs, and others. Snow
+   never lay in these latitudes, on altitudes of 6000 feet above the
+   sea.
+
+   Some of the ancients supposed the river to have its source in the
+   ocean. This was like the answer we received long ago from the
+   natives on the Liambai or Upper Zambesi when inquiring for its
+   source. "It rises in Leoatlé, the white man's sea, or Métséhula."
+   The second name means the "_grazing water_," from the idea of the
+   tides coming in to graze; as to the freshness of the Liambai
+   waters, they could offer no explanation.
+
+   Some again thought that the Nile rose in Western Africa, and
+   after flowing eastwards across the Continent, turned northwards
+   to Egypt; others still thought that it rose in India! and others
+   again, from vague reports collected from their slaves, made it
+   and several other rivers rise but of a great inland sea.
+   _Achélunda_ was said to be the name of this Lake, and in the
+   language of Angola, it meant the "sea." It means only "_of_" or
+   "_belonging to Lunda_," a country. It might have been a sea that
+   was spoken of on a whole, or anything. "_Nyassi, or the sea_,"
+   was another name and another blunder. "Nyassi" means long grass,
+   and nothing else. Nyanza contracted into Nyassa, means lake,
+   marsh, any piece of water, or even the dry bed of a lake. The _N_
+   and _y_ are joined in the mouth, and never pronounced separately.
+   The "Naianza"!--it would be nearer the mark to say the Nancy!
+
+   Of all theoretical discoverers, the man who ran in 200 miles of
+   Lake and placed them on a height of some 4000 feet at the
+   north-west end of Lake Nyassa, deserves the highest place. Dr.
+   Beke, in his guess, came nearer the sources than most others, but
+   after all he pointed out where they would not be found. Old Nile
+   played the theorists a pretty prank by having his springs 500
+   miles south of them all! I call mine a contribution, because it
+   is just a hundred years (1769) since Bruce, a greater traveller
+   than any of us, visited Abyssinia, and having discovered the
+   sources of the Blue Nile, he thought that he had then solved the
+   ancient problem. Am I to be cut out by some one discovering
+   southern fountains of the river of Egypt, of which I have now no
+   conception?
+
+   David Livingstone.
+
+[The tiresome procrastination of Mohamad and his horde was not
+altogether an unmixed evil. With so many new discoveries in hand
+Livingstone had an opportunity for working out several problems, and
+instituting comparisons between the phenomena of Inner Africa and the
+well-marked changes which go on in other parts of the world. We find
+him at this time summing them up as follows:--]
+
+The subject of change of climate from alteration of level has not
+received the investigation it deserves. Mr. Darwin saw reason to
+believe that very great alterations of altitude, and of course of
+climate, had taken place in South America and the islands of the
+Pacific; the level of a country above the sea I believe he thought to
+be as variable as the winds. A very great alteration of altitude has
+also taken place in Africa; this is apparent on the sea-coast of
+Angola, and all through the centre of the country, where large rivers
+which once flowed southwards and westwards are no longer able to run
+in these directions: the general desiccation of the country, as seen
+in the beds of large rivers and of enormous lakes, tells the same
+tale. Portions of the east coast have sunk, others have risen, even in
+the Historic Period. The upper or northern end of the Red Sea has
+risen, so that the place of the passage of the children of Israel is
+now between forty and fifty miles from Suez, the modern head of the
+Gulf. This upheaval, and not the sand from the desert, caused the
+disuse of the ancient canal across the Isthmus: it took place since
+the Mohamadan conquest of Egypt. The women of the Jewish captivities
+were carried past the end of the Red Sea and along the Mediterranean
+in ox-waggons, where such cattle would now all perish for want of
+water and pasture; in fact, the route to Assyria would have proved
+more fatal to captives then than the middle passage has been to
+Africans since. It may be true that, _as the desert is now_, it could
+not have been traversed by the multitude under Moses--the German
+strictures put forth by Dr. Colenso, under the plea of the progress of
+science, assume that no alteration has taken place in either desert or
+climate--but a scientific examination of the subject would have
+ascertained what the country was then when it afforded pasture to
+"flocks and herds, and even very much cattle." We know that Eziongeber
+was, with its docks, on the seashore, with water in abundance for the
+ship-carpenters: it is now far from the head of the Elaic Gulf in a
+parched desert. Aden, when visited by the Portuguese Balthazar less
+than 300 years ago, was a perfect garden; but it is now a vast
+conglomeration of black volcanic rocks, with so little vegetation,
+that, on seeing flocks of goats driven out, I thought of the Irish
+cabman at an ascent slamming the door of his cab and whispering to his
+fare, "Whish, it's to desave the baste: he thinks that you are out
+walking." Gigantic tanks in great numbers and the ruins of aqueducts
+appear as relics of the past, where no rain now falls for three or
+more years at a time. They have all dried up by a change of climate,
+possibly similar and cotemporaneous with that which has dried up the
+Dead Sea.
+
+The journey of Ezra was undertaken after a fast at the River Ahava.
+With nearly 50,000 people he had only about 8000 beasts of burden. He
+was ashamed to ask a band of soldiers and horsemen for protection in
+the way. It took about four months to reach Jerusalem; this would give
+five and a half or six miles a day, as the crow flies, which is equal
+to twelve or fifteen miles of surface travelled over; this bespeaks a
+country capable of yielding both provisions and water, such as cannot
+now be found. Ezra would not have been ashamed to ask for camels to
+carry provisions and water had the country been as dry as it is now.
+The prophets, in telling all the woes and miseries of the captivities,
+never allude to suffering or perishing by thirst in the way, or being
+left to rot in the route as African slaves are now in a well-watered
+country. Had the route to Assyria been then as it is now, they could
+scarcely have avoided referring to the thirst of the way; but
+everything else is mentioned except that.
+
+Respecting this system of Lakes in the centre of Africa, it will
+possibly occur to some that Lake Nyassa may give a portion of its
+water off from its northern end to the Nile, but this would imply a
+Lake giving off a river at both ends; the country, too, on the
+north-north-west and north-east rises to from 4000 to 6000 feet above
+the sea, and there is not the smallest indication that Nyassa and
+Tanganyika were ever connected. Lake Liemba is the most southerly part
+of Tanganyika; its latitude is 8° 46' south; the most northerly point
+of Lake Nyassa is probably 10° 56'-8° 46' = 2° 10'. Longitude of
+Liemba 34° 57'-31° 57' = 3° 00' = 180' of longitude. Of latitude 130'
++ 180' = 310', two-thirds of which is about 206', the distance between
+two Lakes; and no evidence of fissure, rent, or channel now appears on
+the highland between.
+
+Again, Liemba is 3000 feet above the sea. The altitude of Nyassa is
+1200/x800 feet. Tanganyika would thus go to Nyassa--down the Shiré
+into the Zambesi and the sea, if a passage existed even below ground.
+
+The large Lake, said to exist to the north-west of Tanganyika might,
+however, send a branch to the Nile; but the land rises up into a high
+ridge east of this Lake.
+
+It is somewhat remarkable that the impression which intelligent
+Suaheli, who have gone into Karagwé, have received is, that the
+Kitangulé flows from Tanganyika into Lake Ukerewé. One of Syde bin
+Omar's people put it to me very forcibly the other day by saying,
+"Kitangulé is an arm of Tanganyika!" He had not followed it out; but
+that Dagara, the father of Rumanyika, should have in his lifetime
+seriously proposed to deepen the upper part of it, so as to allow
+canoes to pass from his place to Ujiji, is very strong evidence of the
+river being large on the Tanganyika side. We know it to be of good
+size, and requiring canoes on the Ukerewé side. Burton came to the
+very silly conclusion that when a native said a river ran one way, he
+meant that it flowed in the opposite direction. Ujiji, in Rumanyika's
+time, was the only mart for merchandise in the country. Garaganza or
+Galaganza has most trade and influence now. (_14th Sept., 1868._)
+
+Okara is the name by which Victoria Nyanza is known on the eastern
+side, and an arm of it, called Kavirondo, is about forty miles broad.
+Lake Baringo is a distinct body of water, some fifty miles broad, and
+giving off a river called Ngardabash, which flows eastwards into the
+Somauli country. Lake Naibash is more to the east than Kavirondo, and
+about fifty miles broad too: it gives off the River Kidété, which is
+supposed to flow into Lufu. It is south-east of Kavirondo; and
+Kilimanjaro can be seen from its shores; in the south-east Okara,
+Naibash and Baringo seem to have been run by Speke into one Lake.
+Okara, in the south, is full of large islands, and has but little
+water between them; that little is encumbered with aquatic vegetation
+called "Tikatika," on which, as in lakelet Gumadona, a man can walk.
+Waterlilies and duckweed are not the chief part of this floating mass.
+In the north Okara is large. Burukineggé land is the boundary between
+the people of Kavirondo and the Gallahs with camels and horses.
+
+_9th November, 1868._--Copied several Notes written at Kizinga and
+elsewhere, and at Kabwabwata resume Journal. Some slight showers have
+cooled the air a little: this is the hottest time of the year.
+
+_10th November, 1868._--A heavier shower this morning will have more
+of the same effect.
+
+_11th November, 1868._--Muabo visited this village, but refuses to
+show his underground houses.
+
+_13th November, 1868._--I was on the point of starting without Mohamad
+Bogharib, but he begged me not to go till he had settled some weighty
+matter about a wife he is to get at Ujiji from Mpamari; we must have
+the new moon, which will appear in three days, for lucky starting, and
+will leave Syde bin Habib at Chisabi's. Meanwhile two women slaves ran
+away, and Syde has got only five back of his twenty-one fugitives.
+Mullam was mild with his decisions, and returned here; he informed me
+that many of Syde's slaves, about forty, fled. Of those who cannot
+escape many die, evidently broken-hearted; they are captives, and not,
+as slaves often are, criminals sold for their guilt, hence the great
+mortality caused by being taken to the sea to be, as they believe,
+fatted and eaten. Poor things! Heaven help them!
+
+Ujiji is the pronunciation of the Banyamwezi; and they call the people
+Wayeiyé, exactly as the same people styled themselves on the River
+Zougha, near Ngami.
+
+[It will be remembered that several of his men refused to go to Lake
+Bangweolo with him: they seem now to have thought better of it, and on
+his return are anxious to come back to their old master who, for his
+part, is evidently willing to overlook a good deal.]
+
+I have taken all the runaways back again; after trying the independent
+life they will behave better. Much of their ill conduct may be
+ascribed to seeing that after the flight of the Johanna men I was
+entirely dependent on them: more enlightened people often take
+advantage of men in similar circumstances; though I have seen pure
+Africans come out generously to aid one abandoned to their care. I
+have faults myself.
+
+_15th November, 1868._--The Arabs have some tradition of the Emir Musa
+coming as far south as the Jagga country. Some say he lived N.E. of
+Sunna, now Mtéza; but it is so mixed up with fable and tales of the
+Genii (Mageni), that it cannot refer to the great Moses, concerning
+whose residence at Meröe and marriage of the king of Ethiopia's
+daughter there is also some vague tradition further north: the only
+thing of interest to me is the city of Meröe, which is lost, and may,
+if built by ancient Egyptians, still be found.
+
+The Africans all beckon with the hand, to call a person, in a
+different way from what Europeans do. The hand is held, as surgeons
+say, _prone_, or palm down, while we beckon with the hand held
+_supine_, or palm up: it is quite natural in them, for the idea in
+their mind is to lay the hand on the person and draw him towards them.
+If the person wished for is near, say forty yards off, the beckoner
+puts out his right hand on a level with his breast, and makes the
+motion of catching the other by shutting the fingers and drawing him
+to himself: if the person is further off, this motion is exaggerated
+by lifting up the right hand as high as he can; he brings it down with
+a sweep towards the ground, the hand being still held prone as before.
+In nodding assent they differ from us by lifting up the chin instead
+of bringing it down as we do. This lifting up the chin looks natural
+after a short usage therewith, and is perhaps purely conventional, not
+natural, as the other seems to be.
+
+_16th November, 1868._--I am tired out by waiting after finishing the
+Journal, and will go off to-morrow north. Simon killed a zebra after I
+had taken the above resolution, and this supply of meat makes delay
+bearable, for besides flesh, of which I had none, we can buy all kinds
+of grain and pulse for the next few days. The women of the adjacent
+villages crowd into this as soon as they hear of an animal killed, and
+sell all the produce of their plantations for meat.
+
+_17th November, 1868._--It is said that on the road to the Great Salt
+Lake in America the bones and skulls of animals lie scattered
+everywhere, yet travellers are often put to great straits for fuel:
+this, if true, is remarkable among a people so apt in turning
+everything to account as the Americans. When we first steamed up the
+River Shiré our fuel ran out in the elephant marsh, where no trees
+exist, and none could be reached without passing through many miles on
+either side of impassable swamp, covered with reeds, and intersected
+everywhere with deep branches of the river. Coming to a spot where an
+elephant had been slaughtered, I at once took the bones on board, and
+these, with the bones of a second elephant, enabled us to steam
+briskly up to where wood abounded. The Scythians, according to
+Herodotus, used the bones[68] of the animal sacrificed to boil the
+flesh, the Guachos of South America do the same when they have no
+fuel: the ox thus boils himself.
+
+_18th November, 1868._--A pretty little woman ran away from her
+husband, and came to "Mpamari." Her husband brought three hoes, a
+checked cloth, and two strings of large neck beads to redeem her; but
+this old fellow wants her for himself, and by native law he can keep
+her as his slave-wife. Slave-owners make a bad neighbourhood, for the
+slaves, are always running away and the headmen are expected to
+restore the fugitives for a bit of cloth. An old woman of Mpmari fled
+three times; she was caught yesterday, and tied to a post for the
+young slaves to plague her. Her daughter burst into an agony of tears
+on seeing them tying her mother, and Mpamari ordered her to be tied to
+the mother's back for crying; I interceded for her, and she was let
+go. He said, "You don't care, though Sayed Majid loses his money." I
+replied, "Let the old woman go, she will be off again to-morrow." But
+they cannot bear to let a slave have freedom. I don't understand what
+effect his long prayers and prostrations towards the "Kibla" have on
+his own mind, they cannot affect the minds of his slaves favourably,
+nor do they mine, though I am as charitable as most people.
+
+_19th November, 1868._--I prepared to start to-day, but Mohamad
+Bogharib has been very kind, and indeed cooked meals for me from my
+arrival at Casembe's, 6th May last, till we came here, 22nd October;
+the food was coarse enough, but still it was food; and I did not like
+to refuse his genuine hospitality. He now begged of me not to go for
+three days, and then he would come along with me! Mpamari also
+entreated. I would not have minded him, but they have influence with
+the canoe-men on Tanganyika, and it is well not to get a bad name if
+possible.
+
+_20th November, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib purposed to attack two
+villages near to this, from an idea that the people there concealed
+his runaway slaves; by remaining I think that I have put a stop to
+this, as he did not like to pillage while I was in company: Mpamari
+also turned round towards peace, though he called all the riff-raff to
+muster, and caracoled among them like an old broken-winded horse. One
+man became so excited with yelling, that the others had to disarm
+him, and he then fell down as if in a fit; water poured on his head
+brought him to calmness. We go on the 22nd.
+
+_22nd November, 1868._--This evening the Imbozhwa, or Babemba, came at
+dusk, and killed a Wanyamwezi woman on one side of the village, and a
+woman and child on the other side of it. I took this to be the result
+of the warlike demonstration mentioned above; but one of Mohamad
+Bogharib's people, named Bin Juma, had gone to a village on the north
+of this and seized two women and two girls, in lieu of four slaves who
+had run away. The headman, resenting this, shot an arrow into one of
+Bin Junta's party, and Bin Juma shot a woman with his gun.
+
+This, it turned out, had roused the whole country, and next morning we
+were assailed by a crowd of Imbozhwa on three sides: we had no
+stockade, but the men built one as fast as the enemy allowed, cutting
+down trees and carrying them to the line of defence, while others kept
+the assailants at bay with their guns. Had it not been for the crowd
+of Banyamwezi which we have, who shot vigorously with their arrows,
+and occasionally chased the Imbozhwa, we should have been routed. I
+did not go near the fighting, but remained in my house to defend my
+luggage if necessary. The women went up and down the village with
+sieves, as if winnowing, and singing songs, and lullilooing, to
+encourage their husbands and friends who were fighting, each had a
+branch of the Ficus indica in her hand, which she waved, I suppose as
+a charm. About ten of the Imbozhwa are said to have been killed, but
+dead and wounded were at once carried off by their countrymen. They
+continued the assault from early dawn till 1 P.M., and showed great
+bravery, but they wounded only two with their arrows. Their care to
+secure the wounded was admirable: two or three at once seized the
+fallen man, and ran off with him, though pursued by a great crowd of
+Banyamwezi with spears, and fired at by the Suaheli--Victoria-cross
+fellows truly many of them were! Those who had a bunch of animals'
+tails, with medicine, tied to their waists, came sidling and ambling
+up to near the unfinished stockade, and shot their arrows high up into
+the air, to fall among the Wanyamwezi, then picked up any arrows on
+the field, ran back, and returned again. They thought that by the
+ambling gait they avoided the balls, and when these whistled past them
+they put down their heads, as if to allow them to pass over; they had
+never encountered guns before. We did not then know it, but Muabo,
+Phuta, Ngurué, Sandaruko, and Chapi, were the assailants, for we found
+it out by the losses each of these five chiefs sustained.
+
+It was quite evident to me that the Suaheli Arabs were quite taken
+aback by the attitude of the natives; they expected them to flee as
+soon as they heard a gun fired in anger, but instead of this we were
+very nearly being cut off, and should have been but for our Banyamwezi
+allies. It is fortunate that the attacking party had no success in
+trying to get Mpwéto and Karembwé to join them against us, or it would
+have been more serious still.
+
+_24th November, 1868._--The Imbozhwa, or Babemba rather, came early
+this morning, and called on Mohamad to come out of his stockade if he
+were a man who could fight, but the fence is now finished, and no one
+seems willing to obey the taunting call: I have nothing to do with it,
+but feel thankful that I was detained, and did not, with my few
+attendants, fall into the hands of the justly infuriated Babemba. They
+kept up the attack to-day, and some went out to them, fighting till
+noon: when a man was killed and not carried off, the Wanyamwezi
+brought his head and put it on a pole on the stockade--six heads were
+thus placed. A fine young man was caught and brought in by the
+Wanyamwezi, one stabbed him behind, another cut his forehead with an
+axe, I called in vain to them not to kill him. As a last appeal, he
+said to the crowd that surrounded him, "Don't kill me, and I shall
+take you to where the women are." "You lie," said his enemies; "you
+intend to take us where we may be shot by your friends;" and they
+killed him. It was horrible: I protested loudly against any repetition
+of this wickedness, and the more sensible agreed that prisoners ought
+not to be killed, but the Banyamwezi are incensed against the Babemba
+because of the women killed on the 22nd.
+
+_25th November, 1868._--The Babemba kept off on the third day, and the
+Arabs are thinking it will be a good thing if we get out of the
+country unscathed. Men were sent off on the night of the 23rd to Syde
+bin Habib for powder and help. Mohamad Bogharib is now unwilling to
+take the onus of the war: he blames Mpamari, and Mpamari blames him; I
+told Mohamad that the war was undoubtedly his work, inasmuch as Bin
+Juma is his man, and he approved of his seizing the women.
+
+He does not like this, but it is true; he would not have entered a
+village of Casembe or Moamba or Chikumbi as he did Chapi's man's
+village: the people here are simply men of more metal than he
+imagined, and his folly in beginning a war in which, if possible, his
+slaves will slip through his hands is apparent to all, even to
+himself. Syde sent four barrels of gunpowder and ten men, who arrived
+during last night.
+
+_27th November, 1868._--Two of Muabo's men came over to bring on a
+parley; one told us that he had been on the south side of the village
+before, and heard one man say to another "mo pigé" (shoot him).
+Mpamari gave them a long oration in exculpation, but it was only the
+same everlasting, story of fugitive slaves. The slave-traders cannot
+prevent them from escaping, and impudently think that the country
+people ought to catch them, and thus be their humble servants, and
+also the persecutors of their own countrymen! If they cannot keep
+them, why buy them--why put their money into a bag with holes?
+
+It is exactly what took place in America--slave-owners are bad
+neighbours everywhere. Canada was threatened, England browbeaten, and
+the Northerners all but kicked on the same score, and all as if
+property in slaves had privileges which no other goods have. To hear
+the Arabs say of the slaves after they are fled, "Oh, they are bad,
+bad, very bad!" (and they entreated me too to free them from the
+yoke), is, as the young ladies say, "too absurd." The chiefs also who
+do not apprehend fugitives, they too are "bad."
+
+I proposed to Mohamad Bogharib to send back the women seized by Bin
+Juma, to show the Babemba that he disapproved of the act and was
+willing to make peace, but this was too humiliating; I added that
+their price as slaves was four barrels of gunpowder or 160 dollars,
+while slaves lawfully bought would have cost him only eight or ten
+yards of calico each. At the conclusion of Mpamari's speech the four
+barrels of gunpowder were exhibited, and so was the Koran, to impress
+them (Muabo's people) with an idea of their great power.
+
+_28th and 29th November, 1868._--It is proposed to go and force our
+way if we can to the north, but all feel that that would be a fine
+opportunity for the slaves to escape, and they would not be loth to
+embrace it; this makes it a serious matter, and the Koran is consulted
+at hours which are auspicious.
+
+_30th November, 1868._--Messengers sent to Muabo to ask a path, or in
+plain words protection from him; Mpamari protests his innocence of the
+whole affair.
+
+_1st December, 1868._--Muabo's people over again; would fain send them
+to make peace with Chapi!
+
+_2nd December, 1868._--The detention is excessively vexatious to me.
+Muabo sent three slaves as offers of peace--a fine self-imposed, but
+he is on our south side, and we wish to go north.
+
+_3rd December, 1868._--A party went to-day to clear the way to the
+north, but were warmly received by Babemba with arrows; they came back
+with one woman captured, and they say that they killed one man: one of
+themselves is wounded, and many others in danger: others who went east
+were shot at, and wounded too.
+
+_4th December, 1868._--A party went east, and were fain to flee from
+the Babemba, the same thing occurred on our west, and to-day _(5th)_
+all were called to strengthen the stockade for fear that the enemy may
+enter uninvited. The slaves would certainly flee, and small blame to
+them though they did. Mpamari proposed to go off north by night, but
+his people objected, as even a child crying would arouse the Babemba,
+and reveal the flight, so finally he sent off to ask Syde what he
+ought to do, whether to retire by day or by night; probably entreating
+Syde to come and protect him.
+
+A sort of idol is found in every village in this part, it is of wood,
+and represents the features, markings and fashion of the hair of the
+inhabitants: some have little huts built for them--others are in
+common houses. The Babemba call them _Nkisi_ ("Sancan" of the Arabs):
+the people of Rua name one _Kalubi_; the plural, _Tulubi_; and they
+present pombe, flour, bhang, tobacco, and light a fire for them to
+smoke by. They represent the departed father or mother, and it is
+supposed that they are pleased with the offerings made to their
+representatives, but all deny that they pray to them. Casembe has very
+many of these Nkisi; one with long hair, and named _Motombo_, is
+carried in front when he takes the field; names of dead chiefs are
+sometimes given to them. I have not met with anyone intelligent enough
+to explain if prayers are ever made to anyone; the Arabs who know
+their language, say they have no prayers, and think that at death
+there is an end of the whole man, but other things lead me to believe
+this is erroneous. Slaves laugh at their countrymen, in imitation of
+their masters, and will not reveal their real thoughts: one said that
+they believed in two Superior Beings--Réza above, who kills people,
+and Réza below, who carries them away after death.
+
+_6th December, 1868._--Ten of Syde bin Habib's people came over,
+bringing a letter, the contents of which neither Mpamari nor Mohamad
+cares to reveal. Some think, with great probability, that he asks,
+"Why did you begin a war if you wanted to leave so soon? Did you not
+know that the country people would take advantage of your march,
+encumbered as you will be by women and slaves?" Mohamad Bogharib
+called me to ask what advice I could give him, as all his own advice,
+and devices too, had been lost or were useless, and he did not know
+what to do. The Banyamwezi threatened to go off by night and leave
+him, as they are incensed against the Babemba, and offended because
+the Arabs do not aid them in wreaking their vengeance upon them.
+
+I took care not to give any advice, but said, if I had been or was in
+his place, I would have sent or would send back Bin Juma's captives,
+to show that I disapproved of his act--the first in the war--and was
+willing to make peace with Chapi. He said that he did not know that
+Bin Juma would capture these people; that Bin Juma had met some
+natives with fish, and took ten by force, that the natives, in
+revenge, caught three Banyamwezi slaves, and Bin Juma then gave one
+slave to them as a fine, but Mohamad did not know of this affair
+either. I am of opinion, however, that he was fully aware of both
+matters, and Mpamari's caracoling showed that he knew it all, though
+now he denies it.
+
+Bin Juma is a long, thin, lanky Suaheli, six feet two high, with a
+hooked nose and large lips: I told Mohamad that if he were to go with
+us to Manyuema, the whole party would be cut off. He came here, bought
+a slave-boy, and allowed him to escape; then browbeat Chapi's man
+about him (and he says, three others); and caught ten in lieu of him,
+of which Mohamad restored six: this was the origin of the war. Now
+that we are in the middle of it, I must do as Mohamad does in going
+off either by day or by night. It is unreasonable to ask my advice
+now, but it is felt that they have very unjustifiably placed me in a
+false position, and they fear that Syed Majid will impute blame to
+them, meanwhile Syde bin Habib sent a private message to me to come
+with his men to him, and leave this party.
+
+I perceive that the plan now is to try and clear our way of Chapi, and
+then march, but I am so thoroughly disgusted with this slave-war, that
+I think of running the risk of attack by the country people, and go
+off to-morrow without Mohamad Bogharib, though I like him much more
+than I do Mpamari or Syde bin Habib. It is too glaring hypocrisy to go
+to the Koran for guidance while the stolen women, girls, and fish, are
+in Bin Juma's hands.
+
+_8th and 9th December, 1868._--I had to wait for the Banyamwezi
+preparing food: Mohamad has no authority over them, or indeed over
+anyone else. Two Babemba men came in and said that they had given up
+fighting, and begged for their wives, who had been captured by Syde's
+people on their way here: this reasonable request was refused at
+first, but better counsels prevailed, and they were willing to give
+something to appease the anger of the enemy, and sent back six
+captives, two of whom were the wives prayed for.
+
+[At last he makes a start on the 11th of December with the Arabs, who
+are bound eastwards for Ujiji. It is a motley group, composed of
+Mohamad and his friends, a gang of Unyamwezi hangers-on, and strings
+of wretched slaves yoked together in their heavy slave-sticks. Some
+carry ivory, others copper, or food for the march, whilst hope and
+fear, misery and villainy, may be read off on the various faces that
+pass in line out of this country, like a serpent dragging its accursed
+folds away from the victim it has paralysed with its fangs.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_11th December, 1868._--We marched four hours unmolested by the
+natives, built a fence, and next day crossed the Lokinda River and its
+feeder the Mookosi; here the people belonged to Chisabi, who had not
+joined the other Babemba. We go between two ranges of tree-covered
+mountains, which are continuations of those on each side of Moero.
+
+_12th December, 1868._--The tiresome tale of slaves running away was
+repeated again last night by two of Mpamari's making off, though in
+the yoke, and they had been with him from boyhood. Not one
+good-looking slave-woman is now left of Mohamad Bogharib's fresh
+slaves; all the pretty ones obtain favour by their address, beg to be
+unyoked, and then escape. Four hours brought us to many villages of
+Chisabi and the camp of Syde bin Habib in the middle of a set-in rain,
+which marred the demonstration at meeting with his relative Mpamari;
+but the women braved it through, wet to the skin, and danced and
+lullilooed with "draigled" petticoats with a zeal worthy of a better
+cause, as the "penny-a-liners" say. It is the custom for the trader
+who receives visitors to slaughter goats, and feed all his guests for
+at least two days, nor was Syde wanting in this hospitality, though
+the set-in rain continuing, we did not enjoy it as in fine weather.
+
+_14th December, 1868._--Cotton-grass and brackens all over the country
+show the great humidity of Marungu. Rain daily; but this is not the
+great rain which falls when the sun comes back south over our heads.
+
+_15th December, 1868._--March two hours only to the range of Tamba. A
+pretty little light-grey owl, called "nkwékwé," was killed by a
+native as food; a black ring round its face and its black ears gave it
+all the appearance of a cat, whose habits it follows.
+
+_16th to 18th December, 1868._--A brother of Syde bin Habib died last
+night: I had made up my mind to leave the whole party, but Syde said
+that Chisabi was not to be trusted, and the death of his brother
+having happened, it would not be respectful to leave him to bury his
+dead alone. Six of his slaves fled during the night--one, the keeper
+of the others. A Mobemba man, who had been to the coast twice with
+him, is said to have wished a woman who was in the chain, so he loosed
+five out, and took her off; the others made clear heels of it, and now
+that the grass is long and green, no one can trace their course.
+
+Syde told me that the slaves would not have detained him, but his
+brother's death did. We buried the youth, who has been ill three
+months. Mpamari descended into the grave with four others; a broad
+cloth was held over them horizontally, and a little fluctuation made,
+as if to fan those who were depositing the body in the side excavation
+made at the bottom: when they had finished they pulled in earth, and
+all shoved it towards them till the grave was level. Mullam then came
+and poured a little water into and over the grave, mumbled a few
+prayers, at which Mpamari said aloud to me, "Mullam does not let his
+voice be heard;" and Mullam smiled to me, as if to say, "Loud enough
+for all I shall get:" during the ceremony the women were all wailing
+loudly. We went to the usual sitting-place, and shook hands with Syde,
+as if receiving him back again into the company of the living.
+
+Syde told me previously to this event that he had fought the people
+who killed his elder brother Salem bin Habib, and would continue to
+fight them till all their country was spoiled and a desolation: there
+is no forgiveness with Moslems for bloodshed. He killed many, and took
+many slaves, ivory, and copper: his tusks number over 200, many of
+large size.
+
+_19th and 20th December, 1868._--To Chisabi's village stockade, on the
+left bank of the Lofunso, which flows in a marshy valley three miles
+broad. Eight of Mohamad Bogharib's slaves fled by night, one with his
+gun and wife; a, large party went in search, but saw nothing of them.
+
+To-day an elephant was killed, and they sent for the meat, but Chisabi
+ordered the men to let his meat alone: experience at Kabwabwata said,
+"Take the gentle course," so two fathoms of calico and two hoes were
+sent to propitiate the chief; Chisabi then demanded half the meat and
+one tusk: the meat was given, but the tusk was mildly refused: he is
+but a youth, and this is only the act of his counsellors. It was
+replied that Casembe, Chikumbi, Nsama, Meréré, made no demand at all:
+his counsellors have probably heard of the Portuguese self-imposed
+law, and wish to introduce it here, but both tusks were secured.
+
+_22nd December, 1868._--We crossed the Lofunso River, wading three
+branches, the first of forty-seven yards, then the river itself, fifty
+yards, and neck deep to men and women of ordinary size. Two were swept
+away and drowned; other two were rescued by men leaping in and saving
+them, one of whom was my man Susi. A crocodile bit one person badly,
+but was struck, and driven off. Two slaves escaped by night; a woman
+loosed her husband's yoke from the tree, and got clear off.
+
+_24th December, 1868._--Five sick people detain us to-day; some cannot
+walk from feebleness and purging brought on by sleeping on the damp
+ground without clothes.
+
+Syde bin Habib reports a peculiar breed of goats in Rua, remarkably
+short in the legs, so much so, that they cannot travel far; they give
+much milk, and become very fat, but the meat is indifferent. Gold is
+found at Katanga in the pool of a waterfall only: it probably comes
+from the rocks above this. His account of the Lofu, or, as he says,
+West Lualaba, is identical with that of his cousin, Syde bin Omar; it
+flows north, but west of Lufira, into the Lake of Kinkonza, so named
+after the chief. The East Lualaba becomes very large, often as much as
+six or eight miles broad, with many inhabited islands, the people of
+which, being safe from invasion, are consequently rapacious and
+dishonest, and their chiefs, Moengé and Nyamakunda, are equally
+lawless. A hunter, belonging to Syde, named Kabwebwa, gave much
+information gleaned during his hunting trips; for instance, the Lufira
+has nine feeders of large size; and one, the Lekulwé, has also nine
+feeders; another, the Kisungu, is covered with, "tikatika," by which
+the people cross it, though it bends under their weight; he also
+ascribes the origin of the Lufira and the Lualaba West, or Lofu, with
+the Liambai to one large earthen mound, which he calls "segulo," or an
+anthill!
+
+_25th December, 1868, Christmas Day._--We can buy nothing except the
+very coarsest food--not a goat or fowl--while Syde, having plenty of
+copper, can get all the luxuries. We marched past Mount Katanga,
+leaving it on our left, to the River Kapéta, and slaughtered a
+favourite kid to make a Christmas dinner. A trading-party came up from
+Ujiji; they said that we were ten camps from Tanganyika. They gave an
+erroneous report that a steamer with a boat in tow was on Lake
+Chowambé--an English one, too, with plenty of cloth and beads on
+board. A letter had come from Abdullah bin Salem, Moslem missionary at
+Mtésa's, to Ujiji three months ago with this news.
+
+_26th December, 1868._--We marched up an ascent 2-1/2 hours, and got
+on to the top of one of the mountain ridges, which generally run N.
+and S. Three hours along this level top brought us to the Kibawé
+River, a roaring rivulet beside villages. There were no people on the
+height over which we came, though the country is very fine--green and
+gay with varying shades of that colour. We passed through patches of
+brackens five feet high and gingers in flower, and were in a damp
+cloud all day. Now and then a drizzle falls in these parts, but it
+keeps all damp only, and does not show in the rain-gauge. Neither sun
+nor stars appear.
+
+_27th and 28th December, 1868._--Remain on Sunday, then march and
+cross five rivulets about four yards wide and knee deep, going to the
+Lofunso. The grass now begins to cover and hide the paths; its growth
+is very rapid: blobs of water lie on the leaves all day, and keep the
+feet constantly wet by falling as we pass.
+
+_29th December, 1868._--We kept well on the ridge between two ranges
+of hills; then went down, and found a partially-burned native
+stockade, and lodged in it; the fires of the Ujiji party had set the
+huts on fire after the party left. We are in the Itandé district at
+the Nswiba River.
+
+_30th December, 1868._--We now went due east, and made a good deal of
+easting too from Mount Katanga on the Lofunso, and crossed the River
+Lokivwa, twelve yards wide, and very deep, with villages all about. We
+ascended much as we went east. Very high mountains appeared on the
+N.W. The woods dark gieen, with large patches of a paler hue.
+
+_31st December, 1868._--We reached the Lofuko yesterday in a pelting
+rain; not knowing that the camp with huts was near, I stopped and put
+on a bernouse, got wet, and had no dry clothes. Remain to-day to buy
+food. Clouds cover all the sky from N.W. The river, thirty yards wide,
+goes to Tanganyika east of this. Scenery very lovely.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[66] In 1827 Linant reached 13° 30' N. on the White Nile. In 1841 the
+second Egyptian, under D'Arnauld and Sabatier, explored the river to
+4° 42' N., and Jomard published his work on Limmoo and the River
+Habaiah. Dr. Beke and Mr. D'Abbadie contributed their share to making
+the Nile better known. Brun Rollet established a trading station in
+1854 at Belema on the Nile at 5° N. lat.
+
+[67] Miss Tinné succumbed to the dangers of African travelling before
+Livingstone penned these just words of appreciation.
+
+[68] Ezek. xxiv. 5.
+
+END OF VOL. I.
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID
+LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH, VOLUME I (OF 2),
+1866-1868***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 16672-8.txt or 16672-8.zip *******
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