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diff --git a/15706.txt b/15706.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4aedd42 --- /dev/null +++ b/15706.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1829 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Winchester, by Sidney Heath + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Winchester + +Author: Sidney Heath + +Release Date: April 25, 2005 [EBook #15706] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WINCHESTER *** + + + + +Produced by Ted Garvin, Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. + + + + + +WINCHESTER + + + + +[Illustration: THE CLOSE GATE] + + + + +WINCHESTER + + +Described by Sidney Heath + +Pictured by E.W. Haslehust + +[Illustration] + + +BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED + +LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY + +1911 + + * * * * * + +_Advertisement_ + ++Beautiful England+ + +_Volumes Ready_ + +OXFORD + +THE ENGLISH LAKES + +CANTERBURY + +SHAKESPEARE-LAND + +THE THAMES + +WINDSOR CASTLE + +CAMBRIDGE + +NORWICH AND THE BROADS + +THE HEART OF WESSEX + +THE PEAK DISTRICT + +THE CORNISH RIVIERA + +DICKENS-LAND + +WINCHESTER + +THE ISLE OF WIGHT + +CHESTER AND THE DEE + +YORK + + + + +_Uniform with this Series_ + ++Beautiful Ireland+ + +LEINSTER + +ULSTER + +MUNSTER + +CONNAUGHT + + * * * * * + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + +The Close Gate _Frontispiece_ + +The City Bridge + +Winchester Cathedral from the Deanery Gardens + +Wykeham's Chantry + +The Butter Cross + +Entrance to the Deanery + +Winchester College: The Outer Gateway from "Arcadia" + +The Cloisters, Winchester College + +Ruins of Wolvesey Castle + +Beaufort Tower and Ambulatory, St. Cross + +St. Cross from the Meadows + +The Brethren's Hall, St. Cross + +Plan of Winchester Cathedral + + + + +[Illustration] + +WINCHESTER + + +Few of our English cities are more strikingly situated than the once +royal city of Winchester, which lies on the slopes and along the bed of +a chalk valley watered by the River Itchen. The greater part of the +present city is situated on the right bank of the river, while the best +general view of it is justly considered to be that obtained by looking +across the Vale of Chilcomb, from the road to Portsmouth. Of the Itchen +valley, with its rich meadows and tranquil stream, William Cobbett was +an enthusiastic admirer. "There are few spots in England", he exclaims, +"more fertile, or more pleasant, none, I believe, more healthy. The +fertility of this vale and of the surrounding country is best proved by +the fact that, besides the town of Alresford, and that of Southampton, +there are seventeen villages, each having its parish church, upon its +borders. When we consider these things, we are not surprised that a spot +situated about halfway down this vale should have been chosen for the +building of a city, or that that city should have been for a great +number of years the place of residence for the kings of England." + +To-day the beautiful river winds in and out of the ancient streets, and +among the meadow lands, much as it did when Cobbett penned his _Rural +Rides_, although many charming examples of domestic architecture, which +then graced what was probably the most attractive High Street in +England, have been demolished or restored beyond recognition. As it +flows through the city proper, the river is divided up into a number of +small streams abounding in trout; but after a brief course these +rivulets unite just below the city, from whence the waterway is said to +be navigable all the way to Southampton. The bridge at the foot of the +High Street marks the former limit of the navigability of the river, and +is the reputed site of the legend concerning St. Swithun and the old +woman to whom the saint restored her eggs. + +Before the advent of the railway, that great destroyer of our ancient +waterways, the Itchen was crowded with barges making their way from the +maritime port to the inland city; for, like so many of our old British +settlements, the site of Winchester was determined by the natural +conditions of the land which could be utilized for the purposes of +defence. Although every lock on the Itchen is now in ruins or choked by +weeds, and the last of its fleet of brown-sailed barges is derelict, +this is essentially a city whose origin goes back to the days when those +who, coming cautiously up from Southampton Water, reached at length the +practical part of the valley, where they built their stronghold under +the shelter of the downs, yet within easy reach of the sea. It was by +means of barges that much of the stone was brought for the building of +the numerous churches and monastic buildings. This was brought from the +Binstead Quarries in the Isle of Wight, from the Purbeck Quarries in +Dorset, and possibly from Portland as well. + +There is ample evidence that Winchester was a British city (Caer-Gwent), +and the Venta Belgarum of Roman days, when it was connected by roads +with the other Roman cities of Andover, Silchester, Porchester, and +Salisbury. With the taking of the town by the Saxons in 495 it became +known as Wintanceastre, and here, after the final subjection of the +Britons, the capital of Wessex was established. If the claim of +Canterbury to be the "Mother City" of the Anglo-Saxon race be granted, +few will deny to Winchester the honour of being her eldest and her +fairest daughter. A royal city was this when Birinus, the apostle of +Wessex, came hither in 634, on his way to the Oxfordshire Dorchester, to +baptize the King of the West Saxons; and in 679 the episcopal see was +established, a cathedral built, and a monastic house attached to it. It +was from Wintanceastre that Egbert sent forth the decree which gave the +name of Anglia to his kingdom; and here, by the tranquil waters of the +Itchen, Alfred (with his friend, adviser, and tutor, St. Swithun), +Athelstan, and Canute held their Courts, and directed their policies. + +It was during the reign of Athelstan that the redoubtable Guy, Earl of +Warwick, returning to England in the garb of a palmer from a pilgrimage +to the Holy Land, found the Danes besieging Winchester in great force, +and King Athelstan unable to find a champion willing to meet the Danish +giant, Colbrand, in order to decide the issue by single combat. The +Earl, retaining his disguise as a palmer, begged the king to let him +appear as the English champion. + +[Illustration: THE CITY BRIDGE] + +This singular combat, which was to decide the fate of the city, +commenced by Guy breaking his spear on the giant's shield, and the Dane +cutting the head off the Earl's horse. Guy then fought on foot, and, +beating the club out of his opponent's hand, cut off his arm. So the +duel waged until night, when the Dane, faint from loss of blood, fell +to the ground, and his head was cut off by the English champion. Having +settled the affair to the honour of his country and his own +satisfaction, the Earl made himself known to the King, under an oath of +secrecy, and returned thanks in the cathedral for his victory. He then +retired to a hermitage beside the Avon, and passed the remainder of his +life in the cave which still bears his name, and probably contains his +bones. + +Several modern antiquaries are very sceptical about the whole story, and +labour hard to prove that Guy was a mythical figure, and his deeds +nothing but legendary lore. There is always some truth in these old +legends, in spite of the frills and embellishments added by the later +chroniclers, and the history of our land would be poor reading indeed if +we banished the romantic legends merely because they are not confirmed +by such dry-as-dust evidence as alone will satisfy a certain section of +scientific compilers, whose minds can perceive neither truth nor beauty +underlying ancient legends and traditions. The fact that they cannot be +proved to have happened is more than half their charm, and our garden of +romance, with its beautiful flowers of chivalry, is infinitely better to +live with than the dry and parched fields given over to the cultivation +of nothing but facts. + +The defeat of the Danish giant is said to have been achieved in a +meadow to the north of the city, named from that occurrence "Danemark +Mead"; and we are told also that the Dane's sword was to be seen in the +Cathedral treasury down to the reign of James I. Be this as it may, we +do know that in the eighth year of Edward I a writ of right was brought +by the King against the Abbot of Hyde, to recover land usurped in the +north suburb of the city, called "Denemarche", and judgment was given +for the crown. + +The appearance of the city in Saxon days has been described thus by Dean +Kitchin: "The three Minsters, which filled up the south-eastern corner +of the city, were for long the finest group of churches and dwellings in +all England. Wolvesey Palace, at once the school, the court of justice, +and the royal dwelling place, formed the bulwark against the dreaded +invasions of the Dane; inwards from Wolvesey precincts came the strong +enclosure of St. Swithun's Convent, a second fortress, which protected +the church, and behind both, sheltered by their strong walls and by the +river and the marshlands to the north, were the growing buildings of the +Nuns' Minster, and the new Minster. And up the rising towards the west, +on either side of the ancient Roman road from the eastward gate of the +city, the houses of the citizens began to cluster into a street, with +here and there a stone-built dwelling, and the rest made of that 'wattle +and dab' construction, of which from time to time examples are still +laid bare in the city." + +Although many historical persons flit across the scene throughout the +centuries, the personal associations of Winchester are dominated by the +outstanding figures of Alfred, St. Swithun, and the great clerical +craftsman, William of Wykeham, the builder of much of the cathedral, and +the founder of St. Mary's College, Winchester, and New College, +Oxford--the former of which, although of later foundation, was intended +as a stepping-stone for the latter. + +With the Norman Conquest, and the rapid rise of Westminster, the days of +Winchester as the seat of government were numbered, although it was much +favoured by the early Norman kings, possibly owing to its proximity to +such hunting grounds as the New Forest Cranborne Chase (where King +John's hunting lodge still stands), and the Royal Warren of Purbeck. + +William I had his great palace near the cathedral, and it was to +Winchester that the body of William Rufus was brought on a cart, after +his ill-fated death in the New Forest. + +Then the Domesday Book--if not compiled at Winchester--was kept there +for many years, when it was called "The Book of Winton". In the seventh +year of Henry II a charge appears in the Pipe Roll for conveying the +"arca", in which the book was kept, from Winchester to London. + +There is naturally much in the life-history of St. Swithun that is +incapable of proof. He was possibly born in the neighbourhood of +Winchester about the year 800. He became a monk of the old abbey, and +rose to be head of the community, when he gained the favour of King +Egbert, who entrusted him with the education of his son Ethelwolf. There +is an authentic charter granted by Egbert in 838, and bearing the +signatures of Elmstan, _episcopus_, and Swithunus, _diaconus_. On the +death of Elmstan, in 852, Swithun was appointed his successor in the +see, when, in addition to erecting several churches, and building a +stone bridge over the Itchen, he appears to have enlarged and beautified +the Saxon cathedral built by Kynewalch when Winchester became the seat +of a bishopric in 679. The site of this Saxon church is considered to +have been a little to the north of the present cathedral, which is a +Norman building commenced by Walkelin a few years after the Conquest. + +St. Swithun is best known to-day in his capacity of weather prophet. In +his humility he is said to have desired to be buried outside the church, +so that the foot of the passer-by, and the rainwater from the eaves, +could fall upon his grave; and here his body lay for more than a +century. When his remains were eventually translated, a chapel was +erected over the site of his grave at the north-east corner of the +church, and faint traces of this building may still be seen. King Edgar +provided the richly jewelled shrine into which the relics of the saint +were translated by St. Ethelwold, on July 15, 980, when the relics of +Birinus were enshrined at the same time, although these had already been +translated from Dorchester to Winchester by Bishop Hedda as early as the +seventh century. The shrine attracted an immense number of pilgrims +until that of Becket at Canterbury rose into prominence. The skull of +St. Swithun is said to have been taken to Canterbury by St. Elphege in +the eleventh century, and an arm of this patron saint of Winchester was +one of the most treasured possessions of Peterborough. What remained of +these much-disturbed relics were re-translated by Bishop Walkelin from +the old to the new cathedral, but in 1241 the shrine was broken by the +vane of the tower falling through the roof. + +At the Reformation the shrine was destroyed, as is recorded in the +commissioners' letter, dated September 21, 1538:-- + + "About three o'clock this Saturday morning, we made an end of the + shrine here at Winchester. There was no gold, nor ring, nor true + stone about it, but all great counterfeits; but the silver alone + will amount to 2000 marks." + +The popular tradition regarding St. Swithun's Day, July 15, is to the +effect that, as it rains or is fair on this day, the ensuing forty days +will be either wet or dry. + + "St. Swithun's Day, if thou dost rain, + For forty days it will remain: + St. Swithun's Day, if thou be fair, + For forty days 't will rain nae mair." + +The tradition is said to be due to the saintly request being +disregarded, with the result that, when his remains were about to be +translated, a heavy rain burst forth, and continued without ceasing for +the forty succeeding days. This was interpreted as a divine warning, so +that, instead of disturbing the saintly bones, a chapel was erected over +them. As a matter of fact, Professor Earle and other authorities assure +us that the legend is fictitious, and that the translation was attended +by the utmost eclat and success, and blessed with fine weather. + +[Illustration: WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL FROM THE DEANERY GARDENS] + +Foreign pilgrims coming from Normandy and Brittany, on their way to the +shrine of St. Swithun, or to that of St. Thomas of Canterbury, would +land, many of them, at Southampton, and journey to Winchester, there +to await other bands of pilgrims bound for the great Kentish shrine. +This was the route taken by Henry II when he did penance before the tomb +of the murdered Becket, in July, 1174. Although clearly seen in the wold +of Surrey and the weald of Kent at the present time, it must be +confessed that but faint traces of the Pilgrims' Way remain in +Hampshire, although early chroniclers speak of an old road that led +direct from Winchester to Canterbury. The great concourse of pilgrims to +St. Swithun's shrine caused Bishop Lucy to enlarge much of the church, +and in the reign of the first Edward the building still known as the +Strangers' Hall was erected by the monks of St. Swithun for the poorer +class of pilgrims, who here found food and shelter for the night. On +their departure they repaired to the doors of the Prior's lodging--the +three beautiful arches of which now form the entrance to the +Deanery--where they were given alms and fragments of food to sustain +them on their journey. + +The associations of Alfred with this ancient Wessex capital are many and +various. He founded the famous Abbey of Hyde, situated without the city +gates, known for long as the New Minster, and first removed from its +original site near the cathedral in the twelfth century. That Alfred's +remains were laid to rest somewhere within, or just without, the walls +is beyond question, although the exact spot has not yet been +definitely located. When the Benedictine monks of Hyde obtained a +charter from Henry I in 1110, giving them leave to erect a new convent +and church in the green meadows outside the north gate, they are said to +have taken to their new home the wonder-working shrine of St. Josse, the +silver cross given by Canute, and the bones of Alfred. + +At the Reformation, Thomas Wriothesley wrote to Cromwell saying:-- + + "We intend both at Hyde and St. Mary to sweep away all the rotten + bones that be called relics; which we may not omit, lest it be + thought we came more for the treasure than for the avoiding of th' + abomination of idolatry". + +So the resting-place of the noblest of English kings remains unknown; +but a passing antiquary is said to have carried off a stone marked with +the words, "AELFRED REX, DCCCLXXXI", and this stone may still be seen at +Corby Castle in Cumberland. + +Of Hyde Abbey nothing but an old gateway near St. Bartholomew's Church, +and some slight fragments of wall, remain; but a considerable portion +was standing until the ruins were pulled down to provide the site for a +new Bridewell, which has vanished in its turn. The property has now come +into the hands of the Corporation, and scientific excavations have been +commenced. Strong hopes are entertained that Alfred's tomb may be +found, although the iconoclasts of the Reformation and the Magistrates +of later days have made the task a difficult, if not an impossible one. +In 1901 Alfred's thousandth anniversary was celebrated at Winchester, +and on September 20 of that year Lord Rosebery unveiled Hamo +Thorneycroft's magnificent bronze statue, standing in the Broadway, and +bearing on its granite pedestal the single word, eloquent in its +simplicity:-- + + AELFRED. + +Interesting and important as are the associations of Alfred and St. +Swithun with this ancient capital of Wessex, the _genius loci_ is +William of Wykeham, one of the most remarkable men the world has ever +produced. The more we study his life and character the more we are +amazed at the versatile nature of his splendid gifts. Born, like Wolsey, +the only other clerical architect with whom he can be compared, of +humble parents, in the sleepy little village of Wickham, in the autumn +of 1324, he early attracted the attention of Sir John Scures, the lord +of the manor of Wickham, and Constable of Winchester Castle. By Sir +John's influence he became a scholar at the Priory School, the "Great +Grammar School of Winchester", then situated just outside the west wall +of the priory enclosure. Taught by the brethren of St. Swithun's, he +was eventually recommended to Bishop Edington, who appears to have +appreciated the great talent for architecture shown by young Wykeham. +Edington himself was no mean builder, and he had already begun to +rebuild the west front of the cathedral, and to transform the nave from +the Norman to the Perpendicular style, a transformation that was to be +completed by Wykeham when he succeeded his old master in the episcopacy. + +In Wykeham's twenty-third year Edward III came to Winchester, and he, +having heard of the clever young architect, wished to test his skill in +the warfare then being waged against Scotland and France, and +particularly in the new fortifications of Calais. On taking service with +the King, plain William Wykeham became Sir William de Wykeham, and as +Surveyor of Works he superintended such buildings as St. Stephen's +Chapel, Westminster, and the castles of Dover and Queensborough. In 1356 +he was in charge of Windsor Castle, which, as his birthplace, Edward +wished to beautify by many additions. It has been said that the Round +Tower Wykeham built at Windsor made the fortune of its designer. We now +find Wykeham Warden of all the royal castles, and sub-dean of the church +of St. Martins-le-Grand, on the site of which is the General Post +Office; and as a public notary he was present at the signing of the +Treaty of Bretigny. + +Possibly owing to the dearth of clergy caused by the Black Death, +Wykeham, after the laying-on of hands by his old master, Bishop +Edington, became an acolyte in the December of 1361, a sub-deacon in the +March following, and priest in the June of 1362. A few years later, when +Edington was laid to rest within his cathedral, a sharp controversy +arose between the King and the Pope as to who should succeed. The +differences, which need not be discussed here, being eventually settled +to the satisfaction of both parties, Wykeham was offered the vacant see, +when he said to the King: + + "Sire, I am unworthy, but wherein I am wanting myself, that will I + supply by a brood of more scholars than all the prelates of England + ever showed". + +And how worthily he fulfilled his promise is a matter of history. + +To quote the authors of _Historic Winchester_: + + "There was a great stir in the old city when the day of Wykeham's + enthronement arrived. It was the 9th of July, and the town would be + looking especially beautiful in its bower of trees; an outrider had + announced the bishop before he entered the city, probably by the + north gate, and either here or at the entrance to the close he was + met by the Archdeacon of Northampton, William Athey by name, who + was commissioned to enthrone him: having saluted, the Archdeacon + alighted from his palfrey, which according to the custom at that + time was with all its trappings taken possession of by this + ecclesiastic.... The bishop's robing most probably took place at + the priory close by, from whence the procession, forming in the + cloisters under the direction of Hugo de Basyng, prior of St. + Swithun's, would pass to the west door, where it would be joined by + the heads of the other monasteries in and near Winchester--Thomas + de Pechy, Abbot of Hyde, holding highest rank amongst them. Next + would follow long lines of monks clad in their robes of brown, + black, white, or grey, according to their order, and then many a + layman, gathered in from the country round to honour both Church + and State on this occasion. The great procession, gorgeous with + embroidered cope and many a rich vestment, with episcopal staff and + crozier both of prior and abbot carried aloft, must have formed an + imposing spectacle as it filed up the long nave of the cathedral, + thronged, doubtless, to overflowing by many citizens--for unusual + interest would be evinced by Winchester in this enthronement of one + long known to them, now Chancellor of England and certainly, next + to the King and Archbishop, the greatest man in the country." + +As bishop, Wykeham found plenty to do, apart from his ecclesiastical +duties, in repairing his various palaces, and in housing the +predecessors of his Winchester scholars in a house on St. Giles's Hill, +until such time as he could give them fitting buildings and a chapel of +their own. But before Wykeham could see his schemes take an +architectural form, he was to suffer the loss of royal favour owing to +the death of the Black Prince and the rise into power of his enemy, John +of Gaunt. The bishop was charged with the misappropriation of a small +sum of money, and, judgment being given against him, the temporalities +of the see of Winchester were seized, and he was forbidden to come +within twenty miles of the Court. He retired to Waverley Abbey, of which +some picturesque ruins remain, near Farnham; and although on the King's +jubilee pardon was granted to all offenders, a special exception was +made in the case of "Sire William de Wykeham". + +[Illustration: WYKEHAM'S CHANTRY] + +This was more than the heads of the Church could stand, especially as +the original charge was an unjust one; so at the ensuing meeting of +Convocation, Courtenay, then Bishop of London, declared boldly that +unless their favourite bishop was reinstated in office, no money would +be forthcoming from the clergy. In less than a month the pressing need +of funds caused the King to send a messenger to Waverley and beg Wykeham +to return to his house at Southwark. This was the first step, which, +however, did not mean an immediate return to the temporalities, as these +had been settled on the youthful heir apparent, Richard; but the people +took up Wykeham's cause, and on June 18, 1377, in the presence of the +little Richard, his uncle, and the King's council, Wykeham promised to +fit out three galleys for sea, in return for the temporalities of +Winchester. Two days later Edward III died, forsaken by his mistress, +Alice Perrers, and estranged from the one man who had served him so long +and so faithfully. + +The architectural genius of Wykeham as exhibited at St. Mary's College +and the cathedral at Winchester, and at New College, Oxford, originally +founded as "St. Maries' College of Winchester at Oxenford", marks a very +decided epoch in the development of English architecture. His works, in +an architectural style found nowhere but in England, are the outcome of +a mind free from triviality, and full of common sense. His buildings are +admirably suited to their purpose, and at first sight they appear to be +so simple in design that it has been suggested that Wykeham cared more +for the constructive than the artistic side of building. It is true that +he considered sound construction and good proportions of greater +importance than a profusion of detail, yet such ornament as is found in +his work is highly effective and most carefully studied. To this +bishop-architect we undoubtedly owe much of the dignity and simplicity +which mark the Early Perpendicular buildings, qualities which make the +style such a contrast to the exuberance of that which immediately +preceded it, or the over-elaboration of the Tudor buildings that +followed it. + +With few exceptions, practically the whole of Wykeham's work, both here +and at Oxford, remains much as he left it; so that, good bishop, wise +administrator, generous founder, and pioneer educationist though he was, +it is mainly as a munificent builder and architectural genius that his +fame has lived in the past, and will continue to live in the future. + +Here for the moment we must leave the great prelate of Winchester and +begin our perambulation of the city that received him as a youth, +welcomed him as a bishop, mourned him when dead, and that still bears on +the long nave of its cathedral, and on its famous college, the impress +of his manly, robust, and essentially English mind. + +By way of a footpath leading from the London and South-Western Railway +station, the upper part of the famous High Street can be reached, +although the thoroughfare now possesses but few features of interest +until we arrive at the old West Gate, a reminder, if such were needed, +that Winchester was a heavily fortified and strongly walled city. On the +right is Castle Hill, the site of the ancient castle wherein Stigand, +Archbishop of Canterbury, was imprisoned and Matilda besieged, and from +whose courtyard William Rufus set out on the hunting expedition to the +New Forest which was attended by such fatal consequences. All that now +remains of this stronghold is the fine old hall built by Henry III. + +For some time this apartment was used as the County Hall, and here Judge +Jeffreys opened his Bloody Assize before proceeding to Dorchester, +Exeter, and Taunton. Alice Lisle was the widow of John Lisle, who had +been Master of St. Cross Hospital, and member for Winchester in the Long +Parliament. Although the men of Hampshire had taken no part in +Monmouth's Rebellion, many of the fugitives had fled thither, and two of +them, John Hickes, a Non-conformist divine, and Richard Nelthorpe, a +lawyer, found refuge in the house of Alice Lisle, where they were +eventually discovered. At her trial, Alice Lisle stated briefly that, +although she knew Hickes to be in trouble, she was quite ignorant of the +fact that he had participated in the rebellion. When the jury said they +doubted if the charge had been made out, Jeffreys was furious, and after +another long consultation they returned a verdict of "Guilty". The next +morning the judge pronounced sentence, and ordered the prisoner to be +_burned alive_ that same afternoon. When remonstrances had poured in +from all quarters, Jeffreys consented to the execution being postponed +for five days; and the sentence was eventually commuted from burning to +hanging. So the first victim of Monmouth's ill-fated rebellion was +hanged on a scaffold in the market-place of Winchester. + +A striking object hanging at one end of the hall is the top of the +reputed Round Table of King Arthur, painted in radiating white and green +sections, with a portrait of the famous king inset, crowned and robed, +and the Tudor rose in the centre, while around the circumference are +the names of the knights in old black-letter characters. Doubtful though +it is that the table is the actual one that figures in the Arthurian +legends, yet it is certainly of great antiquity, and has been frequently +referred to by more than one writer of mediaeval days. It has been +conjectured that it may be nothing more than the wheel of fortune which +Henry III commanded to be made for the castle. In later years another +palace was started here by Charles II, the only portion that was +completed being now used as barracks. + +Beyond the West Gate is an obelisk, set up in commemoration of a +visitation of the Plague in 1669, when the country people brought their +produce and left it outside the gate to be taken in by the city +dwellers, who deposited the money for the goods in bowls of vinegar, +whence it was abstracted by pincers, to avoid infection. The stone on +which the exchanges were made is incorporated in the base of the +obelisk. + +The West Gate is the only one that remains of the principal entrances to +the city, as King's Gate, with the little church of St. Swithun perched +on top, was of secondary importance. This West Gate escaped the fate +that has overtaken so many of our old city gates owing to its having +been used for some time as a smoking room for the adjacent hotel. This +apartment above the crown of the gateway arch is, like that over the +West Gate of Canterbury, used for the purposes of a museum, wherein are +deposited such interesting relics as the Winchester bushel, cloth +measures, and ancient instruments of punishment. At one time the room +was used as a prison, and the walls are covered with names or marks made +by those who were incarcerated here. + +The gate is of fourteenth-century date, the two panels with armorial +bearings seen on the western side of the archway being later insertions. +Through the gateway a delightful view is obtained of the picturesque +High Street, with many a high-pitched gable rising above the masses of +irregular architecture; while an ancient clock on a wooden bracket juts +out from the old Queen Anne Guildhall, which has a statue of Her Majesty +over the entrance, the Curfew Tower rising on one side of the building. +A new Guildhall of greater architectural pretensions has been erected in +the Broadway, the original one being now used as a shop. + +[Illustration: THE BUTTER CROSS] + +From the West Gate the High Street slopes down to the Itchen. On the +right stands the old Butter Cross, in rather a cramped position. Two +reasons have been given for its name: one, that during Lent, those +wishing to eat butter could do so by consuming it by the cross; the +other, and more probable, explanation is that here came farmers wishing +to dispose of their butter, which they exposed for sale on the steps +of the cross. The structure is of fifteenth-century date, but has been +much restored, the only original figure on it being that of St. +Amphibalus. Just beside the cross is the interesting little opening that +leads into the Close, and in which is the entrance to St. Lawrence +Church, of which nothing is visible from this point but the doorway, and +the tower rising above the surrounding houses. This church has been said +to be the Mother Church of the diocese of Winchester, an idea that may +have owed its origin to the fact that before proceeding to the Cathedral +to be enthroned the bishops designate enter this ancient church to robe +and "ring themselves in". Only the other day, May 6, 1911, Dr. Talbot +followed this old custom, and the people listened eagerly for the number +of rings, as these are supposed to denote the number of years the bishop +will be at the head of the diocese. It may be of interest to chronicle +that Dr. Talbot rang nine times. + +Near the church at one time was an open space called the Square, where +were situated the Pillory and Whipping Post. The palace of William I is +said to have occupied this site, and St. Lawrence's Church may possibly +have been the private chapel of the royal residence. A fragment of +Norman masonry gives a certain amount of probability to the +supposition, while at the beginning of last century some workmen +excavating in Market Street came across the foundations of an ancient +tower, of great thickness and strength. The present arched and narrow +entrance from High Street leads to the fine avenue of limes that forms +the principal approach to the west front of the Cathedral, begun by +Edington _circa_ 1360, the severe simplicity of which has been much +criticized, Ruskin assailing it furiously in the _Stones of Venice_. On +the apex of the gable is a canopied niche containing a statue of +Wykeham. + +The present edifice is thought to stand approximately on the site of the +earlier Saxon church restored by Ethelwold in 980, in which Queen Emma +underwent the "fiery ordeal" by walking blindfold and barefooted over +nine red-hot plough-shares, thus proving her innocence of the charges +brought against her, and furnishing her accusers with an example of what +female chastity is able to accomplish. The main portion of the structure +as seen to-day was begun by Bishop Walkelin about 1079, and completed +some fourteen years later. It is the longest of English churches, +measuring externally 566 feet, and internally 562-1/2 feet, being a few +feet longer than St. Alban's, which has the same plan; although we must +remember that when the nave of Winchester terminated at the west in two +large towers the whole mass was 40 feet longer than at present. + +The vista of the whole block of masonry, with its stumpy tower and +heavily buttressed walls, conveys the idea of immense strength rather +than of gracefulness; while its situation at the bottom of a hill, and +near the bank of the river, is one of great charm. + +It is when the nave is entered that the full beauty and vast proportions +of the Norman church are revealed, for this is in essence a Norman +building encased with Perpendicular details and additions. As Wykeham's +alterations were merely added to the original piers, the stateliness of +the whole remains. Full credit, of course, must be given to Wykeham for +the wonderful skill he showed in this work of transformation, and in +removing the heavy triforium, although the grandeur of the nave as a +whole is due to the combined work of Walkelin and Wykeham. This +alteration of styles in the nave was begun by Edington, continued by +Wykeham, and completed by his successors in the see--Cardinal Beaufort +and Bishop Waynflete--who built the stone vaulting of the roof. The +tower at the intersection of the transepts is the second of its kind, +the first, built by Walkelin, having fallen in 1107, owing, says +tradition, to the wicked Red King having been buried beneath it. Of its +rebuilding there are no records. + +So many detailed architectural histories of the building have appeared +that its principal features must be familiar to every lover of our +national architecture. There are, however, one or two features about +this cathedral that should be noted. Apart from its great length, which +is greater than any church in the world, with the exception of St. +Peter's at Rome, it is remarkable for its parclose screens, with the +mortuary chests upon them; and for the beauty and number of its +chantries, in which it is richer than any other English cathedral. They +are said to have been saved from destruction during the Civil War by the +Parliamentary colonel, Fiennes, an old Wykehamist; and certain +historians describe the dramatic incident of the colonel standing with +drawn sword to protect the chantry of the founder of his Alma Mater from +the iconoclastic tendencies of his troopers. The chantries number seven, +and were built as chapels by bishops for their last resting-places. +Within these chantries are the tombs of Edington, Wykeham, Waynflete, +Beaufort, Gardiner, Langton, and Fox, all of whom were bishops of the +diocese. Fox's chantry was carefully restored by Corpus Christi College, +Oxford; and that of Waynflete by Magdalen College, as a mark of +reverence and esteem for the memory of their respective founders. + +The first to be seen on entering the nave from the west is that of +Wykeham, whose faith in the solidity of Norman building was so great +that he did not hesitate to cut away more than a third of the two nave +pillars between which it is placed. Within the chapel, said to have been +built on the site of an altar to the Virgin, is the effigy of the +bishop-builder, with flesh and robes coloured "proper", as the heralds +say; and at his feet are the figures of his three favourite monks, to +whom he left an endowment for the celebration of three masses daily in +his chantry, while each was to receive one penny a day from the prior. +The effigy lies on an altar tomb, in episcopal attire, the head-pillow +supported by two angels. Five bays farther on is Edington's chantry, but +without effigy, as also are those of Fox and Langton. Of the seven +chantries those of Fox and Beaufort are usually considered the most +beautiful. + +The proud Cardinal Beaufort, founder of the "Almshouse of Noble Poverty" +at St. Cross, is represented by Shakespeare as dying in despair: + + "Lord Cardinal, if thou think'st on Heaven's bliss + Hold up thy hand: make signal of thy hope. + He dies, and makes no sign!" + +Dean Kitchin writes: "One cannot look at his effigy, as it lies in his +stately chantry, without noting the powerful and selfish characteristics +of his face, and especially the nose, large, curved, and money-loving. +The sums Beaufort had at his disposal were so large that he was the +Rothschild of his day. More than once he lent his royal masters enough +money to carry them through their expeditions." + +The mortuary chests are certainly among the most interesting things +possessed by any English cathedral. They are supposed to contain the +bones of Kings Eadulph, Kinegils, Kenulf, Egbert, Canute, Rufus, Edmund, +Edred, Queen Emma, and Bishops Wina and Alwyn. They no doubt got much +mixed up when removed from the crypt by Henry de Blois, and again when +the chests were broken open by the Parliamentarians, so that a detailed +identification has been made impossible. It is now generally +acknowledged that the bones of Rufus are in one of these chests, and +that the so-called Rufus tomb in the retro-choir is the burial place of +some great ecclesiastic. Such at any rate is the opinion of Dean +Kitchin, who has done so much to elucidate the past history of the city +and its Cathedral. + +When one of these boxes was taken recently out of its enclosing chest +and examined, it was found to have a roof something like a low gable, +which was decorated with painting about a century later than the time of +de Blois. On the outside appeared the words in Latin: "Here are together +the bones of King Kinegils and of Ethelwolf". Four of the Italian +chests that held the inner boxes were the gift of Bishop Fox. The +other chests have revealed five complete sets of human bones, and among +the remains in another were the bones of a female, possibly those of +Queen Emma. + +[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE DEANERY] + +The visitor will not fail to have pointed out to him by the +well-informed vergers the innumerable features of interest, such as the +Lady Chapel, the retro-choir, the Holy Hole where the relics were kept, +the black oak stalls of the choir, the fine pulpit given by Prior +Silkstede, and the magnificent screen begun by Beaufort and completed by +Fox. The monuments, apart from those contained in the chantries, are +many, and include one surmounted by a beautifully wrought cross-legged +effigy, which has not yet been identified. There are memorials or tombs +of James I and Charles I, by le Suer, who wrought the statue of the +latter at Charing Cross; Dr. Warton, Professor of Poetry at Oxford, and +headmaster of Winchester; Jane Austen; and William Unwin, the intimate +friend of Cowper. A flat stone, with an inscription by his +brother-in-law, Ken, marks the resting-place of Izaak Walton, "whose +book", a modern writer tells us, "makes the reader forget for the time +the cruelty of his sport". + +The curiously carved font, whereon are depicted symbolical figures and +incidents from the legendary life of St. Nicholas of Myra, bears much +similarity to three others found in Hampshire--at St. Michaels', +Southampton; East Meon; and St. Mary Bourne. They are all of the same +era, and possibly the work of the same hand, being among the most +interesting of our Norman fonts. The material of which they are made has +never been settled, some authorities defining it as Tournai marble, +others as basalt, and yet others as nothing more than slate. + +The roll of bishops is a remarkable one, and the see has had eleven who +were also Lord Chancellors, the last being Wolsey in 1529. + +As we have seen, Winchester continued in favour with the reigning houses +long after it had ceased to be a royal residence. Here Henry I was +married to the Saxon Matilda, and here in the closing years of his life +the aged Wykeham married Henry IV and Joan of Navarre; and here, too, +came Philip of Spain and Henry VIII's sad daughter, Mary of England, to +be wedded before the high altar, the chair on which the royal bride sat +being still shown to visitors. + +For the architectural student the plan of the cathedral is not the least +interesting feature of the building, for although it has an ambulatory +which is semicircular internally, the plan is in other respects rather +exceptional. It is what architects call a periapsidal plan, meaning that +its eastern termination contains a processional aisle or ambulatory, +designed mainly for the purpose of allowing a procession to pass round +the high altar without entering the presbytery. In the crypt of +Winchester Cathedral the plan of the early Norman church may be seen +_sui generis_. A rather exceptional feature is that the eastern +ambulatory is semicircular within but rectangular without, although the +long chapel that projects from this ambulatory has an apsidal, not a +rectangular, termination. + +To the receptive mind all our ancient cathedrals, and a few of our +modern ones, possess a subtle atmosphere of their own, indescribable but +plainly felt, both within and without their walls. In such an atmosphere +we lose sight of the Winchester of to-day. It becomes ancient, +ecclesiastical, historical, learned, and romantic. Here we return in +imagination to the scenes of the Middle Ages, when love was attested by +chivalrous deeds of arms done in honour of bright eyes, and poetry +sounded its lyre in praise of him who had been most devoted to his +Church, most faithful to his mistress, and most loyal to his king. As a +whole, this Cathedral of Winchester is a vast building, simple almost to +a fault, yet one that possesses a solemn repose unspeakably restful to +mind and spirit--a sense of undisturbed harmony and refined yet massive +simplicity. Towards eventide the shadows of the turrets and pinnacles +creep, day by day, over the surrounding bands of greensward, their cool +greys advancing inch by inch until they reach the spacious pavements, +whereon they cast the symbols of our Christian faith in ruddy +trefoil-headed slants of glory. + +Whatever else is omitted from the history of the Cathedral, mention must +be made of the valiant efforts that have been and are still being made +to preserve the stability of the structure. A few years ago the east end +showed signs of subsidence, and ominous cracks appeared in the north +transept, a part of the old Norman church. An examination of the fabric +proved that herculean tasks were essential to save this portion of the +edifice. It was agreed that only by extensive underpinning could the +work be accomplished. It has been very costly, and funds are most +urgently needed to complete the preservation, not only of the eastern +end, but of the whole Cathedral. The cradle of woodwork erected to give +temporary support to the eastern superstructure cost over a thousand +pounds to fix, and up to date many thousands of pounds have been spent +on the work. It was not until these temporary supports had been fixed +and excavations begun that the magnitude of the task was fully revealed. +The Cathedral was found to have been built on an old "water-bed" having +a foundation of peat, the distance between the ground level and the +firm gravel beneath the peat being 27 feet. The only hope of saving the +east end was to remove the peat and fill in the spaces with concrete and +cement. With the removal of the peat, however, there was so great an +influx of water that pumping was of no avail. Two of the best divers in +the kingdom were then procured, and by working on their backs and sides +in 15 feet of muddy water they succeeded in laying the concrete bed. +Owing to the same cause, the remainder of the structure will, sooner or +later, have to be treated in the same way, and the thorough restoration +of the west front cannot be long postponed. The difficulty of the work +is realized when we consider that it takes a whole month to underpin 4 +feet of foundation. Owing to the cramped space and the darkness three +weeks are spent in excavation; after which the divers require a week to +place the concrete and cement in position. That so national a heritage +will be saved, for the delight of our own and the instruction of future +generations, must be the wish of all true lovers of the great building +achievements of the past. + +The cathedral precincts are in excellent keeping with the repose and +beauty of the building to which they form the court, and are full of +historical memories. The palace of the Conqueror reached from Great +Minster Street to Market Street, from High Street to the Square; and +eastwards rose the "New Minster", and the Nuns' Abbey of St. Mary. + +To-day the greater part of the Close, with the Deanery and the various +canonical residences, lies on the south side. Only a few slight +fragments remain of the cloisters, the destruction of which could not +have been considered possible by Wykeham. They were taken down by Bishop +Horne in the reign of Elizabeth. The short row of Norman arches seen +from the Close belonged to the old Chapter House, which is said to have +been pulled down for the sake of its lead. The Deanery was the ancient +house of the Priors, of which it contains many interesting memorials. +Here are the Great Hall, now subdivided, and the Hospitium, used as +stables. The Deanery entrance has three pointed arches, beneath which, +as we have stated, the poor pilgrims and other wayfarers received food +and alms. On his numerous visits to Winchester, Charles II used to lodge +at the Deanery, until Prebendary Ken (afterwards Bishop of Bath and +Wells) refused to allow Nell Gwynne to enter the house, with the result +that she had to content herself with an inferior residence outside the +precincts. + +Of Wykeham's "College of St. Marie", or New College, Oxford, this is not +the place to speak, especially as it has already been dealt with in the +"Oxford" volume of this "Beautiful England" series. His other +"College of St. Mary", or, as it is commonly known, Winchester College, +has a history extending far beyond that of most of our great public +schools; and Winchester was celebrated for its educational institutions +in Saxon days. + +[Illustration: WINCHESTER COLLEGE: THE OUTER GATEWAY FROM "ARCADIA"] + +Wykeham's idea in founding these two colleges was one for which he had +no precedent before him, so that his design was to a large extent in the +nature of an experiment. His idea, of course, was to enable those who +proceeded from the Winchester to the Oxford College to receive a +systematic and continuous education. Where Wykeham led, others were not +long in following. Two of his successors in the see of Winchester, +Waynflete and Fox, gave to Oxford the beautiful colleges of Magdalen and +Corpus Christi respectively. Archbishop Chichele, one of Wykeham's first +scholars, built St. Bernard's College, now St. John Baptist's, which he +gave to the Cistercians before its completion; and later in life he +founded the College of All Souls, while in his native village of Higham +Ferrers, Northants, he built and endowed a school, bede-house, and +church, which are among some of the loveliest pieces of building we +possess. Henry VI made himself intimately acquainted with the works of +Wykeham, and copied them for his two colleges of Eton, and King's +College, Cambridge. Until Wykeham's time, schools had been under or +connected with monastic houses; now they were distinct foundations, with +priests still as masters, but priests secular and not religious. Wykeham +was, indeed, the pioneer of the public-school system, of which, with all +its shortcomings, England is so justly proud. + +Each of the bishop's colleges took about six years in building, and that +at Oxford was the first to be finished. It must have been a proud day +for Winchester when, on March 28, 1393, the "seventy faithful boys", +headed by their master, came in procession from St. Giles's Hill, where +they had been temporarily housed, and, all chanting psalms, entered into +possession of their fair college. + +The buildings have been but little altered since their founder's day, +and extend now, as then, on the south side of the Close, and along the +bank of the Itchen. They consist mainly of two quadrangles, in the first +of which, entered from College Street by a gateway, are the Warden's +house and other offices. Here is the brewhouse, quite unaltered; but the +Warden's house has absorbed the old bakehouse, slaughterhouse, and +butcher's room. Over the second archway are figures of the Virgin, with +Gabriel on her right, and Wykeham kneeling on her left. Here was a room +for the Warden, from which he could see all who entered or left the +college; and here also is the site of the old penthouse under which the +scholars used to perform their ablutions, and which they called "Moab". +The old Society comprised the Warden, ten Fellows, three Chaplains, +sixteen Queristers, and seventy scholars. The boys, the chaplains, and +the choristers lived within the inner quadrangle, the northern side of +which is formed by the chapel and the refectory. The original chapel, +with the exception of the beautiful fan-groining of its roof, was much +defaced in the seventeenth century, but was restored in the nineteenth, +when a new reredos was added. The refectory remains practically +untouched, and has a roof enriched with some beautiful carved woodwork, +the painted heads of kings and bishops, and some great mullioned +windows. Over the buttery is the audit-room, hung with ancient and rare +tapestries, and containing a large chest known as Wykeham's money box. +The original schoolroom was in the basement, and has long been put to +other uses. The chantry, the beautiful cloisters, and the chapel tower +were all built after the founder's death, but he provided a wooden bell +tower, which stood away from the chapel, so that the main building +should not be injured by the vibration of the bells. The remaining +portions are mostly modern, and the foundation has naturally been much +enlarged since Wykeham's day, the last addition being the gateway in +Kingsgate Street, erected as a memorial to the many Wykehamists who +fell in the South African War. + +On the wall of a passage adjoining the kitchen is a singular painting, +supposed to be emblematical of a "trusty servant", compounded of a man, +a hog, a deer, and an ass. The explanatory words beneath it are +attributed to Dr. Christopher Jonson, headmaster from 1560 to 1571. + +With the completion of Winchester College, Wykeham turned his attention +to the Cathedral, although he was then seventy years of age. He lived to +see his munificence bearing good fruit, and his foundations flourishing +in reputation and usefulness; so that when he lay down to die, on +September 27, 1404, in his palace of Bishops' Waltham, he could look +back to a long life spent in the service of his Maker. The funeral +procession moved slowly along the ten miles that separated palace from +Cathedral through crowds of people mourning his loss. At the Cathedral +door the prior met the procession, and the great bishop-builder was laid +to rest in the beautiful chantry he had himself prepared. Four days +before his death he made and signed his will, in which he bestowed gifts +and legacies with the liberality that was so marked a characteristic of +his life. That crowds of poor would attend his obsequies he was probably +aware, for to each poor person seeking a bounty he bequeathed fourpence, +"for the love of God and his soul's health". To the Cathedral, on +which he had expended so much of his genius, he left money for its +completion; and bequeathed to it many precious things, including a cross +of gold in which was a piece of the "Tree of the Lord". Henry IV was +forgiven a debt of five hundred pounds, and was to have a pair of +silver-gilt basins, ornamented with double roses, which were probably +given to Wykeham by Edward III, as a special mark of his favour. So we +take leave of this master builder and munificent bishop, whose motto +"Manners makyth man" is known the world over. The inscription on his +tomb tells us of his works, but Wykeham needs no inscription so long as +the stones of the Cathedral hold together, and his two fair colleges +raise their buttressed walls beside the waters of the Isis and the +Itchen. + +[Illustration: THE CLOISTERS, WINCHESTER COLLEGE] + +Returning to the Butter Cross, the Piazza adjoining reminds one of the +Butter Walk at Dartmouth, and the famous "Rows" of Chester. It was used +for many years as a market where the country folk brought their produce, +being then known as the "Penthouse". The mints established on the site +by Athelstan were noted for the excellence of the coinage made there. In +the Westgate Museum an old leaden box is shown which was discovered at +Beauworth by a shepherd. It was found to contain some six thousand +silver pennies of the coinage of William I and Rufus. In addition to its +famous mints Winchester was the chief trading centre of this part of +England during mediaeval days. A great woollen trade was carried on with +Flanders when the city became one of the "staple" towns, still +commemorated by "Staple Gardens", a narrow lane leading out of the north +side of High Street, where the great warehouse for the storage of wool +once stood. A little below the Queen Anne Guildhall, but on the opposite +side of the street, is St. John's Hospital; while another old lane +leading off from the main thoroughfare is Royal Oak Passage, at the +junction of which with the street is the ancient house known as +God-begot House, with some good timberwork and a fine gable. "Jewry" +Street recalls to our memory the early settlement of the Jews in +Winchester, for the citizens seem to have been more kindly disposed +towards this persecuted race than those of the majority of English +cities at an early period in their history. Richard of Devizes, in 1189, +called Winchester the "Jerusalem of the Jews", and, writing of the +massacre and plunder of the Jews in London and other cities, said: +"Winchester alone, the people being prudent and circumspect and the city +always acting mildly, spared its vermin". The Jews settled in Winchester +between the years 1090 and 1290, landing at Southampton and making +their way up the Itchen until they came in sight of the old capital of +the kingdom. Crossing the river, they entered the city by the East Gate, +and finally chose as their abiding-place a site near the north walls, in +a thoroughfare then known as "Scowrtenstrete", Shoemakers' Row. The +community soon could boast of a synagogue, and were the possessors of +several schools. At the bottom of the High Street are the Abbey Gardens, +so called from their being on the site of an abbey founded by Ealhswith, +King Alfred's queen, in which to spend the years of her widowhood. The +general plan of the gardens has probably been but little altered since +the days when the nuns paced their shady paths in pious meditation. An +ancient manuscript of prayers, used by the abbess in the ninth century, +is preserved in the British Museum. Ealhswith's son, Edward the Elder, +levied a toll from all merchandise passing under the City Bridge by +water, and beneath the East Gate by land, for the better support of the +abbey founded by his mother. Before the bridge stood the East Gate, and +crossing we are in that part of the city known as the "Soke". In the +"Liberty of the Soke" the bishop of the diocese had his court, presided +over by the bailiff as his deputy. Thus the bishop's jurisdiction was +entirely independent of that of the civic authorities. Wolvesey was his +palace, and within its walls, now ivy-clad and crumbling to decay, he +held his court, with three tithing men and a constable to assist him. +Here also was his exchequer, and here he imprisoned those who offended +against his laws. All that now remains of the once celebrated episcopal +palace of Wolvesey--said, with no authority, to have been so named from +the tribute of wolves' heads levied upon the Welsh by King Edgar--are a +few ruined walls, of sufficient extent to give one an idea of the +strength of the castle in its original state. At Wolvesey King Alfred +brought together the scholars who were to aid him in writing the +"Chronicles of the Time"; and on the outer walls he hung the bodies of +Danish pirates as a warning to those who made periodical raids up the +valley of the Itchen. + +In the hands of Bishop de Blois the palace became of great importance, +and withstood a siege by David, King of Scotland, and Robert, Earl of +Gloucester. De Blois was one of those who assisted at the coronation of +Henry II, and pulled down the tower when the bishop was absent from the +diocese without the royal permission, on a visit to Clugny. Although +shorn of much of its former strength, the palace remained a fortress +until the fortifications of Winchester were reduced to a heap of ruins +by Cromwell. + +[Illustration: RUINS OF WOLVESEY CASTLE] + +Beyond the City Bridge rises St. Giles's Hill, named after Giles, one +of those numerous hermit saints who played so prominent a part in +establishing the Christian faith in these islands. The hill is deeply +grooved by a railway cutting; on it was held for many centuries a kind +of open market or annual fair, which attracted the wealthy merchants of +France, Flanders, and Italy. The fair generally lasted a fortnight, +during which time all other local business was suspended, the shops +closed, and the mayor handed over the keys of the city to the bishop, +who claimed large fees from the stall holders. Thirty marks were paid +for repairs needed at the Church of St. Swithun, and similar sums were +demanded by the abbeys. Bishop Walkelin was granted the tolls of the +fair for three days by William Rufus, his kinsman; but in the time of +Henry III the privilege was extended to sixteen days. The stalls were +arranged in long rows, and named according to the goods sold thereon, or +after the nationality of the vendors. Thus one row would be named the +Street of Caen, another that of Limoges, while the Drapery and Spicery +stalls were held by the monks of St. Swithun, who proved themselves +energetic traders at the great annual fair, which lasted until modern +times, and was removed in due course from St. Giles's Hill into the +city. Dean Kitchin writes: "As the city grew stronger and the fair +weaker, it slid down St. Giles's Hill and entered the town, where its +noisy ghost still holds revel once a year". + +At the present day St. Giles's Hill is a pleasant spot from which to +view the venerable city. Down the valley, by the Itchen, rises the +Hospital and Church of St. Cross, a picturesque and peaceful group of +buildings viewed from any position, but particularly so taken in +conjunction with the ancient city and the fertile valley threaded by +numberless small streams. On the left side of the valley is St. +Catherine's Hill, a bold and outstanding spur crowned with a small belt +of trees surrounded by a circular earthwork. At one time a chapel +dedicated to St. Catherine capped the hill, and slight traces of the +building may yet be seen. Here is the interesting maze, said to have +been made by a Winchester College boy who was obliged to remain behind +during the holidays, but probably of a different origin, some +antiquaries holding the opinion that it is of great antiquity, and in +some way connected with ecclesiastical penance. + +Looking citywards, one can see the towers of many churches rising above +the gables and chimneys of the houses. Near at hand are St. Peter's, +Cheeshill, and St. John's, the former an interesting little building +with a mixture of styles, among which the Norman and Early English +predominate, the windows being of a later period. The bell turret is +situated at the south-east corner of the building, which, as a whole, +gives a singular impression, due to the fact that it is nearly as broad +as it is long. St. John's Church is the most interesting in the city, +containing as it does a fine rood screen, with the rood-loft stairs +still existing in a turret of fifteenth-century date. Other features of +interest are the fourteenth-century Decorated screens that enclose the +chancel on each side, and an arched recess at the east end of the north +wall, containing an altar-tomb with quatrefoil panels supporting shields +on which are the symbols of the Passion. The tomb itself bears neither +inscription nor date. + +Here also are a set of carved bench ends, a Perpendicular pulpit, and an +octagonal font. + +Unfortunately, most of the other churches of Winchester have been either +rebuilt or so altered as to retain very little of their original +architecture. The Church of St. Maurice, rebuilt in 1841, has saved a +Norman doorway, fragments of a fine Decorated screen which now serve for +altar rails, and an ancient chest. + +Like most of our cathedral cities, Winchester is well supplied with +charitable institutions, although the best known of them all, the famous +Hospital of St. Cross, is situated a mile away from the city proper. The +Hospital of St. John, within Winchester, is one of the oldest +foundations of the kind in the country, and a portion of the vaulted +kitchen remaining in the building may not unreasonably be supposed to +have formed part of the almshouse thought to have been founded on the +spot in A.D. 935 by St. Brinstan. The chapel connected with the charity +dates from the time of the third Henry, and contains a piece of +fourteenth-century carving depicting the nimbed head of the Saviour, +which is now built into a wall. Considerable doubt exists as to the +original founder and early re-founders of this hospital, and little is +known concerning it until the time of Edward II, when John Devenish +re-founded it. At that period it seems to have been for the "sole relief +of sick and lame soldiers, poor pilgrims, and necessitated wayfaring +men, to have their lodging and diet there for one night, or longer, as +their inability to travel may require". Many influential citizens left +money or property to this charity. In 1400 Mark le Faire, Mayor of +Winchester, bequeathed to it several houses, including the "great inn +called the George", and the "house under the penthouse where Mr. Hodgson +died". Richard Devenish, in the time of Henry VI, left a sum of money to +provide for a more frequent performance of divine service in the chapel; +but in the reign of Henry VIII these and other funds were confiscated, +although the building itself was subsequently restored to the +Corporation. + +[Illustration: BEAUFORT TOWER AND AMBULATORY, ST. CROSS] + +After the Reformation, Ralph Lambe re-founded the charity for six +poor and needy persons, who were to have six separate homes or chambers +within the hospital, each furnished with locks and keys. Each person was +to receive ten shillings quarterly, with a gown value ten shillings, and +ten shillings' worth of coal yearly. On the election of a new mayor each +was to receive two shillings, and any funds remaining were to be divided +among the inmates at the discretion of the mayor and aldermen of the +city. This institution is still a flourishing one, and the original +hall, standing to the west of the chapel, is let as a public +dining-hall. + +Another old charity was that of St. Mary Magdalene, founded for lepers, +in 1173-88, by Bishop Toclyve, the inmates being known locally as "the +infirm people upon the hill", now Maun Hill. In early times lepers were +required to give up the whole of their personal goods, and one of the +questions asked by the official visitor to the Hospital of St. Mary +Magdalene was whether the goods of the deceased inmates went to the +works of the church after the settlement of debts. The funds of this +foundation were much tampered with at various times, and it lost some of +its property at the Reformation. One of its benefactors left to it four +flitches of bacon yearly, this being an important article of diet. The +original plan of the hospital was quadrangular: on two sides were the +inmates' rooms and the chapel, the remaining sides being occupied by the +Master's House and the common hall. The buildings were much damaged in +the time of Charles I by the troops stationed there, and again in the +reign of Charles II by the Dutch prisoners confined within the hospital. +The chapel was pulled down in 1788, and the materials were used for +building purposes, when the fine Early Norman doorway was used in the +Roman Catholic Church in St. Peter Street, where it may still be seen. +This was the west doorway of the ancient hospital chapel. The site is +now occupied by a hospital of another character, the isolation hospital, +but the old "lepers' well" can still be seen. The charity survives to +some extent in six cottages in Water Lane, built in 1788, wherein are +housed four men and four women. + +In Symond's Street stands the picturesque "Christes Hospital", founded in +1586 by James Symonds. It is generally called the "Bluecoat" Hospital, +from the distinctive dress worn by the inmates. A scholastic institution +was attached to this charity for the education of four poor boys, chosen +by the mayor and corporation, who also elected their teacher. The latter +was not to be, in the terms of the founder, either a "Scotchman, an +Irishman, a Welshman, a foreigner, or a North-countryman", lest their +pronunciation of the English language should suffer. + +From among the fertile meadows bordering the banks of the Itchen to the +south of Winchester rises the stately grey pile of St. Cross, standing +where it has stood for over seven and a half centuries, a witness alike +to the munificence of its founders, de Blois and Beaufort, and to the +skill of the mediaeval builders. + +A good road leads from the city to the pleasing suburb in which the +hospital is situated, though a far pleasanter way is by one of the field +paths through the meadows. + +Henry de Blois became bishop when only twenty-eight years old, and in +1136 he founded the hospital for the entire support of "thirteen poor +men, feeble and so reduced in strength that they can hardly or with +difficulty support themselves without another's aid"; and they were to +be supplied with "garments and beds suitable to their infirmities, good +wheate bread daily of the weight of 5 marks, and three dishes at dinner +and one at supper, suitable to the day, and drink of good stuff". + +Besides this, he provided for a hundred poor men to be supplied daily +with dinner. Bishop Toclyve, de Blois's successor in the see, added to +the charity the feeding of yet another hundred poor men daily; and it +has been said, on somewhat slight evidence, that the poorer scholars of +Winchester College dined without fee in the "Hundred Men's Hall". + +In 1137 the management of the institution was given over to the Knights +of St. John of Jerusalem; the cross still worn as a badge by the +Brethren is a link with the ancient Order, being the cross _potent_, or +Jerusalem cross, which was an insignia of the Kingdom of Jerusalem +established by the Crusaders. + +[Illustration: ST. CROSS FROM THE MEADOWS] + +Shortly after the death of de Blois a dispute arose between the +Hospitallers and the bishop, but after the lapse of many years the +management was restored to the latter, then Peter de Rupibus, who +appointed Alan de Soke as Master. In 1446, Cardinal Beaufort, Wykeham's +successor in the see, added a new foundation to St. Cross, to be called +"The Almshouse of Noble Poverty". De Blois's charity had been intended +to benefit the very needy; this of Beaufort's was designed for those who +had fallen upon evil days after a life of ease and comfort. There were +to be two priests, thirty-five brethren, and three sisters. The brethren +were to be of gentle birth, or old servants of the founder. The scheme, +however, was never completed, owing to the Wars of the Roses +intervening, with the result that the estates with which he had intended +to endow his almshouse were claimed by the Crown on the accession of the +House of York. So it came about that in 1486 Bishop Waynflete was +compelled to reduce the recipients of Beaufort's charity to one priest +and two brethren. Fortunately, St. Cross was spared at the +Reformation, and its endowments were not confiscated. The Vicar-General +reported that there were "certain things requiring reformation", and +that sturdy beggars were to be "driven away with staves"; also that the +Lord's Prayer and the Creed were to be taught in English, and that +relics and images were not to be brought out for the devotion of +pilgrims. In 1632 Archbishop Laud caused a strict enquiry to be made, +with the result that the Master, Dr. Lewis, reported that the fabric was +in a state of great dilapidation. This Master lost his post through his +loyalty to Church and King, and John Lisle, the regicide, became Master +of the Hospital until Cromwell made him a peer, when his place was +filled by John Cooke, the Solicitor-General who drew up the indictment +against Charles I. Both these regicides met with misfortune, for Cooke +was executed and Lisle assassinated, so that at the Restoration Dr. +Lewis was restored to the mastership. Between the years 1848 and 1853, +chancery suits, costing a large sum of money, resulted in an entirely +new scheme being drawn up, under which the two charities were treated as +separate foundations under one head. The differences of qualification +between the two sets of Brethren are carefully laid down, and a portion +of the income is used for the maintenance of fifty out-pensioners, the +modern equivalent for the "Hundred Poor Men" of mediaeval days. The +distinctive dresses of the Brethren are the same with regard to colour +and cut as those worn in the time of Henry VI, those worn by the +recipients of Beaufort's charity being of red cloth, with the badge, a +cardinal's hat and tassels on a silver plate, worn on the left breast. +The Brethren of the older institution, founded by de Blois, wear black +gowns, with the silver cross _potent_ pinned on the left breast. On the +death of a Brother the cross is placed on a red velvet cushion and laid +on his breast in the coffin; but before burial the cross is removed and +fastened by the Master on the breast of the Brother elected in place of +the deceased. + +The Hospital buildings consist of an outer courtyard and gateway, to the +right of which are the kitchens, and on the left the old brewhouse and +remains of some of the earlier buildings. Immediately facing us is the +tower gateway, thoroughly restored, if not built originally, by Cardinal +Beaufort, under the groined archway of which is the porter's lodge, +where the "Wayfarers' Dole" is still distributed to all who apply at the +hatchway, an interesting and almost sole survival of the mediaeval +custom by which food and drink were offered to passers-by. The daily +dole at the present day consists of two gallons of ale and two loaves of +bread, divided into thirty-two portions. The apartment over the archway +is the Founder's room, wherein are stored all the ancient documents +relating to the foundation. Beaufort's arms appear in one of the +spandrels above the gateway arch, the corresponding spandrel exhibiting +the ancient regal arms of England. On this side of the entrance are +three niches, one of which contains a figure of the cardinal in a +kneeling posture. The vacant niche in the south front once held a statue +of the Virgin, which fell to the ground more than a century ago, and +nearly killed one of the Brethren in its descent. + +Passing through this noble gateway, which, somehow or other, does not +look as old as we know it to be, we enter the great quadrangle, around +which the various buildings are grouped. On the eastern side is the +Infirmary, with the Ambulatory beneath it, a long, low cloister of +sixteenth-century date, which extends along the whole side to the +church. In one of the rooms above, a window opens into the church, where +there may once have been a gallery to enable the infirm to hear the +services. In 1763 Bishop Hoadley granted a license to the Master to pull +down the cloister and use the materials for other purposes, but +fortunately this was never done. On the opposite side of the quadrangle +are the houses of the Brethren. Each dwelling consists of two rooms and +a pantry, and has a garden attached. + +The Brethren's Hall stands on the north side of the quadrangle, and is +a portion only of the old "Hundred Mennes Hall"; but enough is left to +enable one to form a good idea of the original apartment, which measured +36 feet by 24 feet, until a portion was cut off to provide rooms for the +Master, who is now lodged in a modern dwelling outside the gates. At the +east end of the hall is a table where the officials sat, those for the +Brethren being ranged along the sides. Some black-leather jacks, +candlesticks, salt-cellars, pewter dishes, and a dinner bell, all dating +from Beaufort's time, are still carefully preserved. At the opposite end +of the hall is a screen with the minstrels' gallery above, whence, on +high days and holidays, the Brethren were enlivened with music during +their feastings. The chief festivals of the year were All Saints' Day, +Christmas Day, New Year's Day, Twelfth Day, and Candlemas Day, on which +occasions the Brethren had "extraordinary commons, and on the eve of +which days they had a fire of charcoal in the Common Hall, and one jack +of six quarts and one pint of beer extraordinary, to drink together by +the fire. And on the said feast-day they had a fire at dinner, and +another at supper in the said hall, and they had a sirloin of beef +roasted, weighing forty-six pounds and a half, and three large +mince-pies, and plum broth, and three joints of mutton for their supper, +and six quarts and one pint of beer extraordinary at dinner, and six +quarts and one pint of beer after dinner, by the fireside; six quarts +and a pint at supper, and the like after supper." During Lent, each +brother had eight shillings paid to him instead of commons, and on Palm +Sunday the Brethren had a "green fish, of the value of three shillings +and fourpence, and their pot of milk pottage with three pounds of rice +boiled in it, and three pies with twenty-four herrings baked in them, +and six quarts and one pint of beer extraordinary". On Good Fridays they +had at dinner "in their pot of beer a cast of bread sliced, and three +pounds of honey, boiled together, which they call honey sop". Beneath +the hall is a fine vaulted cellar, of ample proportions, a worthy +resting-place for the stock of St. Cross ale. + +[Illustration: THE BRETHREN'S HALL, ST. CROSS] + +But, interesting as are all these portions of the Hospital of St. Cross, +it is the church which has the greatest attraction for architect and +antiquary alike, for it contains good examples of every style. From +Romanesque, through Norman and Early English, to Later Decorated, and to +Transition Norman, the church is considered to be the best example in +existence. This building, unfinished after nearly two hundred years, was +roofed with lead, in place of the thatch which originally covered it, by +William of Edyndon, the famous Wiltshireman who became Master of St. +Cross in the fourteenth century, and who restored the fabric from the +ruinous state in which he found it to a condition of beauty and +strength. The windows of the clerestory were erected by him; he +re-roofed the "Hundred Menne's Hall", and built a new chamber for the +Master. + +On entering the church, through the north porch, one is struck by its +loftiness and dignity, the vaulting throughout being of stone, while +almost every ornamental feature of the Norman style can be seen. +Proceeding to the western end of the church, and looking down the nave, +the gradual development of its architecture can be well seen. The east +end is Norman, the bay next the transepts Transition Norman, while the +west end is Early English. The windows vary from Norman and Transition +Norman to Early English, while those of the clerestory are Decorated. +Mention must be made of the fine stone screens and tabernacle-work on +either side of the altar, the altar slab of Purbeck marble, the +triforium of intersecting arches in the choir, and the roof pendants. +The western portion of the church was built during the mastership of +Peter de Sancto Mario, and his fine canopied tomb is a striking object +on the north side of the nave. Interesting, too, are the beautiful +fourteenth-century tiles, some bearing the appropriate motto "Have +Mynde"; and a very human note is struck in the mason's marks, still to +be seen in various parts of the building, especially around the +staircase door in the south transept. What these signs actually mean is +unknown, but some authorities, notably Leader Scott in her work on +_Cathedral Builders_, trace them through the Comacine Guild to the Roman +_Collegia_. + +In the south-east corner of the south transept, on the exterior of the +church, is a "triple-arch", which is thought to have been a doorway, and +may have led to the "clerken-house", the original habitation of the +seven choristers and their master, but which was pulled down by de +Cloune, Master of St. Cross in the fourteenth century, who also allowed +other parts of the fabric to fall into a state of great dilapidation. +Here also, on the south side of the quadrangle, stood the original +houses of Beaufort's foundation, which were not pulled down until 1789. + +No groups of buildings are in their way more charming or more +impregnated with human associations than the famous episcopal foundation +of St. Cross--an asylum of peace and rest, comfort and repose, to those +who find shelter within its ancient walls, and a standing monument to +the memory of the pious Henry de Blois and the princely churchman, +Cardinal Beaufort. Winchester, like many an English city, would be shorn +of much of its interest were this benevolent institution to be removed. +The general air of peace and quietude, the grass-bordered walks, the +stately church, all contribute to convey an appeal which is almost +sacred in its simple eloquence. In the words of one who loved it well: +"No one can pass its threshold without feeling himself landed, as it +were, in another age. The ancient features of the building, the noble +gateway, the quadrangle, the common refectory, the cloister, and, rising +above all, the lofty and massive pile of the venerable church, the +uniform garb and reverend mien of the aged brethren, the common +provision for their declining years, the dole at the gatehouse, all lead +back our thoughts to days when men gave their best to God's honour, and +looked on what was done to His poor as done to Himself, and were as +lavish of architectural beauty on what modern habits might deem a +receptacle for beggars, as on the noblest of royal palaces. It seems a +place where no worldly thought, no pride, or passion, or irreverence +could enter; a spot where, as a modern writer has beautifully expressed +it, a good man, might he make his choice, would wish to die." + +The country around this beautiful city by the Itchen is full of quiet +charm, for life's ever-changing drama has but one and the same +background. The actors come and go, but the stage remains much the same, +and the devotions, the meditations, and the acts of men who lived +centuries ago were set in the amphitheatre of the same green hills, and +took place beside the same winding river as those we gaze upon to-day. + +[Illustration: PLAN OF WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL] + +Literature, too, has worthy names here in Izaak Walton and Jane Austen, +both of whom lie buried in the cathedral; while the house at Winchester +in which the author of _Persuasion_ lived, for a brief period before +her death, stands beyond the college gate. Above the door is a wooden +tablet recording that here Jane Austen spent her last days, dying July +18, 1817. She had previously resided at Chawton for some eight years, +but her house in the village is now a Workmen's Club. At the same time, +Chawton is a pretty little spot, watered by land springs, known locally +as "lavants"; while some few miles away is Farrington, where Gilbert +White, of "Selborne" fame, was curate. + +Other literary associations of the Winchester country are those +furnished by Hursley, where John Keble was vicar; by Otterbourne, the +home for many years of Charlotte Yonge; and by Eversley, where +Winchester's immortal son, Charles Kingsley, lies buried. + +Each succeeding visit to Winchester can only strengthen one's love for +the city, and one's reverence for the Cathedral in its midst. Our +pilgrimage of Winchester the beautiful is over. + +PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN + +_At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland_ + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Winchester, by Sidney Heath + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WINCHESTER *** + +***** This file should be named 15706.txt or 15706.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/7/0/15706/ + +Produced by Ted Garvin, Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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