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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Winchester, by Sidney Heath
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Winchester
+
+Author: Sidney Heath
+
+Release Date: April 25, 2005 [EBook #15706]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WINCHESTER ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Ted Garvin, Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net.
+
+
+
+
+
+WINCHESTER
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE CLOSE GATE]
+
+
+
+
+WINCHESTER
+
+
+Described by Sidney Heath
+
+Pictured by E.W. Haslehust
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED
+
+LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY
+
+1911
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Advertisement_
+
++Beautiful England+
+
+_Volumes Ready_
+
+OXFORD
+
+THE ENGLISH LAKES
+
+CANTERBURY
+
+SHAKESPEARE-LAND
+
+THE THAMES
+
+WINDSOR CASTLE
+
+CAMBRIDGE
+
+NORWICH AND THE BROADS
+
+THE HEART OF WESSEX
+
+THE PEAK DISTRICT
+
+THE CORNISH RIVIERA
+
+DICKENS-LAND
+
+WINCHESTER
+
+THE ISLE OF WIGHT
+
+CHESTER AND THE DEE
+
+YORK
+
+
+
+
+_Uniform with this Series_
+
++Beautiful Ireland+
+
+LEINSTER
+
+ULSTER
+
+MUNSTER
+
+CONNAUGHT
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+The Close Gate _Frontispiece_
+
+The City Bridge
+
+Winchester Cathedral from the Deanery Gardens
+
+Wykeham's Chantry
+
+The Butter Cross
+
+Entrance to the Deanery
+
+Winchester College: The Outer Gateway from "Arcadia"
+
+The Cloisters, Winchester College
+
+Ruins of Wolvesey Castle
+
+Beaufort Tower and Ambulatory, St. Cross
+
+St. Cross from the Meadows
+
+The Brethren's Hall, St. Cross
+
+Plan of Winchester Cathedral
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+WINCHESTER
+
+
+Few of our English cities are more strikingly situated than the once
+royal city of Winchester, which lies on the slopes and along the bed of
+a chalk valley watered by the River Itchen. The greater part of the
+present city is situated on the right bank of the river, while the best
+general view of it is justly considered to be that obtained by looking
+across the Vale of Chilcomb, from the road to Portsmouth. Of the Itchen
+valley, with its rich meadows and tranquil stream, William Cobbett was
+an enthusiastic admirer. "There are few spots in England", he exclaims,
+"more fertile, or more pleasant, none, I believe, more healthy. The
+fertility of this vale and of the surrounding country is best proved by
+the fact that, besides the town of Alresford, and that of Southampton,
+there are seventeen villages, each having its parish church, upon its
+borders. When we consider these things, we are not surprised that a spot
+situated about halfway down this vale should have been chosen for the
+building of a city, or that that city should have been for a great
+number of years the place of residence for the kings of England."
+
+To-day the beautiful river winds in and out of the ancient streets, and
+among the meadow lands, much as it did when Cobbett penned his _Rural
+Rides_, although many charming examples of domestic architecture, which
+then graced what was probably the most attractive High Street in
+England, have been demolished or restored beyond recognition. As it
+flows through the city proper, the river is divided up into a number of
+small streams abounding in trout; but after a brief course these
+rivulets unite just below the city, from whence the waterway is said to
+be navigable all the way to Southampton. The bridge at the foot of the
+High Street marks the former limit of the navigability of the river, and
+is the reputed site of the legend concerning St. Swithun and the old
+woman to whom the saint restored her eggs.
+
+Before the advent of the railway, that great destroyer of our ancient
+waterways, the Itchen was crowded with barges making their way from the
+maritime port to the inland city; for, like so many of our old British
+settlements, the site of Winchester was determined by the natural
+conditions of the land which could be utilized for the purposes of
+defence. Although every lock on the Itchen is now in ruins or choked by
+weeds, and the last of its fleet of brown-sailed barges is derelict,
+this is essentially a city whose origin goes back to the days when those
+who, coming cautiously up from Southampton Water, reached at length the
+practical part of the valley, where they built their stronghold under
+the shelter of the downs, yet within easy reach of the sea. It was by
+means of barges that much of the stone was brought for the building of
+the numerous churches and monastic buildings. This was brought from the
+Binstead Quarries in the Isle of Wight, from the Purbeck Quarries in
+Dorset, and possibly from Portland as well.
+
+There is ample evidence that Winchester was a British city (Caer-Gwent),
+and the Venta Belgarum of Roman days, when it was connected by roads
+with the other Roman cities of Andover, Silchester, Porchester, and
+Salisbury. With the taking of the town by the Saxons in 495 it became
+known as Wintanceastre, and here, after the final subjection of the
+Britons, the capital of Wessex was established. If the claim of
+Canterbury to be the "Mother City" of the Anglo-Saxon race be granted,
+few will deny to Winchester the honour of being her eldest and her
+fairest daughter. A royal city was this when Birinus, the apostle of
+Wessex, came hither in 634, on his way to the Oxfordshire Dorchester, to
+baptize the King of the West Saxons; and in 679 the episcopal see was
+established, a cathedral built, and a monastic house attached to it. It
+was from Wintanceastre that Egbert sent forth the decree which gave the
+name of Anglia to his kingdom; and here, by the tranquil waters of the
+Itchen, Alfred (with his friend, adviser, and tutor, St. Swithun),
+Athelstan, and Canute held their Courts, and directed their policies.
+
+It was during the reign of Athelstan that the redoubtable Guy, Earl of
+Warwick, returning to England in the garb of a palmer from a pilgrimage
+to the Holy Land, found the Danes besieging Winchester in great force,
+and King Athelstan unable to find a champion willing to meet the Danish
+giant, Colbrand, in order to decide the issue by single combat. The
+Earl, retaining his disguise as a palmer, begged the king to let him
+appear as the English champion.
+
+[Illustration: THE CITY BRIDGE]
+
+This singular combat, which was to decide the fate of the city,
+commenced by Guy breaking his spear on the giant's shield, and the Dane
+cutting the head off the Earl's horse. Guy then fought on foot, and,
+beating the club out of his opponent's hand, cut off his arm. So the
+duel waged until night, when the Dane, faint from loss of blood, fell
+to the ground, and his head was cut off by the English champion. Having
+settled the affair to the honour of his country and his own
+satisfaction, the Earl made himself known to the King, under an oath of
+secrecy, and returned thanks in the cathedral for his victory. He then
+retired to a hermitage beside the Avon, and passed the remainder of his
+life in the cave which still bears his name, and probably contains his
+bones.
+
+Several modern antiquaries are very sceptical about the whole story, and
+labour hard to prove that Guy was a mythical figure, and his deeds
+nothing but legendary lore. There is always some truth in these old
+legends, in spite of the frills and embellishments added by the later
+chroniclers, and the history of our land would be poor reading indeed if
+we banished the romantic legends merely because they are not confirmed
+by such dry-as-dust evidence as alone will satisfy a certain section of
+scientific compilers, whose minds can perceive neither truth nor beauty
+underlying ancient legends and traditions. The fact that they cannot be
+proved to have happened is more than half their charm, and our garden of
+romance, with its beautiful flowers of chivalry, is infinitely better to
+live with than the dry and parched fields given over to the cultivation
+of nothing but facts.
+
+The defeat of the Danish giant is said to have been achieved in a
+meadow to the north of the city, named from that occurrence "Danemark
+Mead"; and we are told also that the Dane's sword was to be seen in the
+Cathedral treasury down to the reign of James I. Be this as it may, we
+do know that in the eighth year of Edward I a writ of right was brought
+by the King against the Abbot of Hyde, to recover land usurped in the
+north suburb of the city, called "Denemarche", and judgment was given
+for the crown.
+
+The appearance of the city in Saxon days has been described thus by Dean
+Kitchin: "The three Minsters, which filled up the south-eastern corner
+of the city, were for long the finest group of churches and dwellings in
+all England. Wolvesey Palace, at once the school, the court of justice,
+and the royal dwelling place, formed the bulwark against the dreaded
+invasions of the Dane; inwards from Wolvesey precincts came the strong
+enclosure of St. Swithun's Convent, a second fortress, which protected
+the church, and behind both, sheltered by their strong walls and by the
+river and the marshlands to the north, were the growing buildings of the
+Nuns' Minster, and the new Minster. And up the rising towards the west,
+on either side of the ancient Roman road from the eastward gate of the
+city, the houses of the citizens began to cluster into a street, with
+here and there a stone-built dwelling, and the rest made of that 'wattle
+and dab' construction, of which from time to time examples are still
+laid bare in the city."
+
+Although many historical persons flit across the scene throughout the
+centuries, the personal associations of Winchester are dominated by the
+outstanding figures of Alfred, St. Swithun, and the great clerical
+craftsman, William of Wykeham, the builder of much of the cathedral, and
+the founder of St. Mary's College, Winchester, and New College,
+Oxford--the former of which, although of later foundation, was intended
+as a stepping-stone for the latter.
+
+With the Norman Conquest, and the rapid rise of Westminster, the days of
+Winchester as the seat of government were numbered, although it was much
+favoured by the early Norman kings, possibly owing to its proximity to
+such hunting grounds as the New Forest Cranborne Chase (where King
+John's hunting lodge still stands), and the Royal Warren of Purbeck.
+
+William I had his great palace near the cathedral, and it was to
+Winchester that the body of William Rufus was brought on a cart, after
+his ill-fated death in the New Forest.
+
+Then the Domesday Book--if not compiled at Winchester--was kept there
+for many years, when it was called "The Book of Winton". In the seventh
+year of Henry II a charge appears in the Pipe Roll for conveying the
+"arca", in which the book was kept, from Winchester to London.
+
+There is naturally much in the life-history of St. Swithun that is
+incapable of proof. He was possibly born in the neighbourhood of
+Winchester about the year 800. He became a monk of the old abbey, and
+rose to be head of the community, when he gained the favour of King
+Egbert, who entrusted him with the education of his son Ethelwolf. There
+is an authentic charter granted by Egbert in 838, and bearing the
+signatures of Elmstan, _episcopus_, and Swithunus, _diaconus_. On the
+death of Elmstan, in 852, Swithun was appointed his successor in the
+see, when, in addition to erecting several churches, and building a
+stone bridge over the Itchen, he appears to have enlarged and beautified
+the Saxon cathedral built by Kynewalch when Winchester became the seat
+of a bishopric in 679. The site of this Saxon church is considered to
+have been a little to the north of the present cathedral, which is a
+Norman building commenced by Walkelin a few years after the Conquest.
+
+St. Swithun is best known to-day in his capacity of weather prophet. In
+his humility he is said to have desired to be buried outside the church,
+so that the foot of the passer-by, and the rainwater from the eaves,
+could fall upon his grave; and here his body lay for more than a
+century. When his remains were eventually translated, a chapel was
+erected over the site of his grave at the north-east corner of the
+church, and faint traces of this building may still be seen. King Edgar
+provided the richly jewelled shrine into which the relics of the saint
+were translated by St. Ethelwold, on July 15, 980, when the relics of
+Birinus were enshrined at the same time, although these had already been
+translated from Dorchester to Winchester by Bishop Hedda as early as the
+seventh century. The shrine attracted an immense number of pilgrims
+until that of Becket at Canterbury rose into prominence. The skull of
+St. Swithun is said to have been taken to Canterbury by St. Elphege in
+the eleventh century, and an arm of this patron saint of Winchester was
+one of the most treasured possessions of Peterborough. What remained of
+these much-disturbed relics were re-translated by Bishop Walkelin from
+the old to the new cathedral, but in 1241 the shrine was broken by the
+vane of the tower falling through the roof.
+
+At the Reformation the shrine was destroyed, as is recorded in the
+commissioners' letter, dated September 21, 1538:--
+
+     "About three o'clock this Saturday morning, we made an end of the
+     shrine here at Winchester. There was no gold, nor ring, nor true
+     stone about it, but all great counterfeits; but the silver alone
+     will amount to 2000 marks."
+
+The popular tradition regarding St. Swithun's Day, July 15, is to the
+effect that, as it rains or is fair on this day, the ensuing forty days
+will be either wet or dry.
+
+     "St. Swithun's Day, if thou dost rain,
+     For forty days it will remain:
+     St. Swithun's Day, if thou be fair,
+     For forty days 't will rain nae mair."
+
+The tradition is said to be due to the saintly request being
+disregarded, with the result that, when his remains were about to be
+translated, a heavy rain burst forth, and continued without ceasing for
+the forty succeeding days. This was interpreted as a divine warning, so
+that, instead of disturbing the saintly bones, a chapel was erected over
+them. As a matter of fact, Professor Earle and other authorities assure
+us that the legend is fictitious, and that the translation was attended
+by the utmost éclat and success, and blessed with fine weather.
+
+[Illustration: WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL FROM THE DEANERY GARDENS]
+
+Foreign pilgrims coming from Normandy and Brittany, on their way to the
+shrine of St. Swithun, or to that of St. Thomas of Canterbury, would
+land, many of them, at Southampton, and journey to Winchester, there
+to await other bands of pilgrims bound for the great Kentish shrine.
+This was the route taken by Henry II when he did penance before the tomb
+of the murdered Becket, in July, 1174. Although clearly seen in the wold
+of Surrey and the weald of Kent at the present time, it must be
+confessed that but faint traces of the Pilgrims' Way remain in
+Hampshire, although early chroniclers speak of an old road that led
+direct from Winchester to Canterbury. The great concourse of pilgrims to
+St. Swithun's shrine caused Bishop Lucy to enlarge much of the church,
+and in the reign of the first Edward the building still known as the
+Strangers' Hall was erected by the monks of St. Swithun for the poorer
+class of pilgrims, who here found food and shelter for the night. On
+their departure they repaired to the doors of the Prior's lodging--the
+three beautiful arches of which now form the entrance to the
+Deanery--where they were given alms and fragments of food to sustain
+them on their journey.
+
+The associations of Alfred with this ancient Wessex capital are many and
+various. He founded the famous Abbey of Hyde, situated without the city
+gates, known for long as the New Minster, and first removed from its
+original site near the cathedral in the twelfth century. That Alfred's
+remains were laid to rest somewhere within, or just without, the walls
+is beyond question, although the exact spot has not yet been
+definitely located. When the Benedictine monks of Hyde obtained a
+charter from Henry I in 1110, giving them leave to erect a new convent
+and church in the green meadows outside the north gate, they are said to
+have taken to their new home the wonder-working shrine of St. Josse, the
+silver cross given by Canute, and the bones of Alfred.
+
+At the Reformation, Thomas Wriothesley wrote to Cromwell saying:--
+
+     "We intend both at Hyde and St. Mary to sweep away all the rotten
+     bones that be called relics; which we may not omit, lest it be
+     thought we came more for the treasure than for the avoiding of th'
+     abomination of idolatry".
+
+So the resting-place of the noblest of English kings remains unknown;
+but a passing antiquary is said to have carried off a stone marked with
+the words, "ÆLFRED REX, DCCCLXXXI", and this stone may still be seen at
+Corby Castle in Cumberland.
+
+Of Hyde Abbey nothing but an old gateway near St. Bartholomew's Church,
+and some slight fragments of wall, remain; but a considerable portion
+was standing until the ruins were pulled down to provide the site for a
+new Bridewell, which has vanished in its turn. The property has now come
+into the hands of the Corporation, and scientific excavations have been
+commenced. Strong hopes are entertained that Alfred's tomb may be
+found, although the iconoclasts of the Reformation and the Magistrates
+of later days have made the task a difficult, if not an impossible one.
+In 1901 Alfred's thousandth anniversary was celebrated at Winchester,
+and on September 20 of that year Lord Rosebery unveiled Hamo
+Thorneycroft's magnificent bronze statue, standing in the Broadway, and
+bearing on its granite pedestal the single word, eloquent in its
+simplicity:--
+
+     AELFRED.
+
+Interesting and important as are the associations of Alfred and St.
+Swithun with this ancient capital of Wessex, the _genius loci_ is
+William of Wykeham, one of the most remarkable men the world has ever
+produced. The more we study his life and character the more we are
+amazed at the versatile nature of his splendid gifts. Born, like Wolsey,
+the only other clerical architect with whom he can be compared, of
+humble parents, in the sleepy little village of Wickham, in the autumn
+of 1324, he early attracted the attention of Sir John Scures, the lord
+of the manor of Wickham, and Constable of Winchester Castle. By Sir
+John's influence he became a scholar at the Priory School, the "Great
+Grammar School of Winchester", then situated just outside the west wall
+of the priory enclosure. Taught by the brethren of St. Swithun's, he
+was eventually recommended to Bishop Edington, who appears to have
+appreciated the great talent for architecture shown by young Wykeham.
+Edington himself was no mean builder, and he had already begun to
+rebuild the west front of the cathedral, and to transform the nave from
+the Norman to the Perpendicular style, a transformation that was to be
+completed by Wykeham when he succeeded his old master in the episcopacy.
+
+In Wykeham's twenty-third year Edward III came to Winchester, and he,
+having heard of the clever young architect, wished to test his skill in
+the warfare then being waged against Scotland and France, and
+particularly in the new fortifications of Calais. On taking service with
+the King, plain William Wykeham became Sir William de Wykeham, and as
+Surveyor of Works he superintended such buildings as St. Stephen's
+Chapel, Westminster, and the castles of Dover and Queensborough. In 1356
+he was in charge of Windsor Castle, which, as his birthplace, Edward
+wished to beautify by many additions. It has been said that the Round
+Tower Wykeham built at Windsor made the fortune of its designer. We now
+find Wykeham Warden of all the royal castles, and sub-dean of the church
+of St. Martins-le-Grand, on the site of which is the General Post
+Office; and as a public notary he was present at the signing of the
+Treaty of Bretigny.
+
+Possibly owing to the dearth of clergy caused by the Black Death,
+Wykeham, after the laying-on of hands by his old master, Bishop
+Edington, became an acolyte in the December of 1361, a sub-deacon in the
+March following, and priest in the June of 1362. A few years later, when
+Edington was laid to rest within his cathedral, a sharp controversy
+arose between the King and the Pope as to who should succeed. The
+differences, which need not be discussed here, being eventually settled
+to the satisfaction of both parties, Wykeham was offered the vacant see,
+when he said to the King:
+
+     "Sire, I am unworthy, but wherein I am wanting myself, that will I
+     supply by a brood of more scholars than all the prelates of England
+     ever showed".
+
+And how worthily he fulfilled his promise is a matter of history.
+
+To quote the authors of _Historic Winchester_:
+
+     "There was a great stir in the old city when the day of Wykeham's
+     enthronement arrived. It was the 9th of July, and the town would be
+     looking especially beautiful in its bower of trees; an outrider had
+     announced the bishop before he entered the city, probably by the
+     north gate, and either here or at the entrance to the close he was
+     met by the Archdeacon of Northampton, William Athey by name, who
+     was commissioned to enthrone him: having saluted, the Archdeacon
+     alighted from his palfrey, which according to the custom at that
+     time was with all its trappings taken possession of by this
+     ecclesiastic.... The bishop's robing most probably took place at
+     the priory close by, from whence the procession, forming in the
+     cloisters under the direction of Hugo de Basyng, prior of St.
+     Swithun's, would pass to the west door, where it would be joined by
+     the heads of the other monasteries in and near Winchester--Thomas
+     de Pechy, Abbot of Hyde, holding highest rank amongst them. Next
+     would follow long lines of monks clad in their robes of brown,
+     black, white, or grey, according to their order, and then many a
+     layman, gathered in from the country round to honour both Church
+     and State on this occasion. The great procession, gorgeous with
+     embroidered cope and many a rich vestment, with episcopal staff and
+     crozier both of prior and abbot carried aloft, must have formed an
+     imposing spectacle as it filed up the long nave of the cathedral,
+     thronged, doubtless, to overflowing by many citizens--for unusual
+     interest would be evinced by Winchester in this enthronement of one
+     long known to them, now Chancellor of England and certainly, next
+     to the King and Archbishop, the greatest man in the country."
+
+As bishop, Wykeham found plenty to do, apart from his ecclesiastical
+duties, in repairing his various palaces, and in housing the
+predecessors of his Winchester scholars in a house on St. Giles's Hill,
+until such time as he could give them fitting buildings and a chapel of
+their own. But before Wykeham could see his schemes take an
+architectural form, he was to suffer the loss of royal favour owing to
+the death of the Black Prince and the rise into power of his enemy, John
+of Gaunt. The bishop was charged with the misappropriation of a small
+sum of money, and, judgment being given against him, the temporalities
+of the see of Winchester were seized, and he was forbidden to come
+within twenty miles of the Court. He retired to Waverley Abbey, of which
+some picturesque ruins remain, near Farnham; and although on the King's
+jubilee pardon was granted to all offenders, a special exception was
+made in the case of "Sire William de Wykeham".
+
+[Illustration: WYKEHAM'S CHANTRY]
+
+This was more than the heads of the Church could stand, especially as
+the original charge was an unjust one; so at the ensuing meeting of
+Convocation, Courtenay, then Bishop of London, declared boldly that
+unless their favourite bishop was reinstated in office, no money would
+be forthcoming from the clergy. In less than a month the pressing need
+of funds caused the King to send a messenger to Waverley and beg Wykeham
+to return to his house at Southwark. This was the first step, which,
+however, did not mean an immediate return to the temporalities, as these
+had been settled on the youthful heir apparent, Richard; but the people
+took up Wykeham's cause, and on June 18, 1377, in the presence of the
+little Richard, his uncle, and the King's council, Wykeham promised to
+fit out three galleys for sea, in return for the temporalities of
+Winchester. Two days later Edward III died, forsaken by his mistress,
+Alice Perrers, and estranged from the one man who had served him so long
+and so faithfully.
+
+The architectural genius of Wykeham as exhibited at St. Mary's College
+and the cathedral at Winchester, and at New College, Oxford, originally
+founded as "St. Maries' College of Winchester at Oxenford", marks a very
+decided epoch in the development of English architecture. His works, in
+an architectural style found nowhere but in England, are the outcome of
+a mind free from triviality, and full of common sense. His buildings are
+admirably suited to their purpose, and at first sight they appear to be
+so simple in design that it has been suggested that Wykeham cared more
+for the constructive than the artistic side of building. It is true that
+he considered sound construction and good proportions of greater
+importance than a profusion of detail, yet such ornament as is found in
+his work is highly effective and most carefully studied. To this
+bishop-architect we undoubtedly owe much of the dignity and simplicity
+which mark the Early Perpendicular buildings, qualities which make the
+style such a contrast to the exuberance of that which immediately
+preceded it, or the over-elaboration of the Tudor buildings that
+followed it.
+
+With few exceptions, practically the whole of Wykeham's work, both here
+and at Oxford, remains much as he left it; so that, good bishop, wise
+administrator, generous founder, and pioneer educationist though he was,
+it is mainly as a munificent builder and architectural genius that his
+fame has lived in the past, and will continue to live in the future.
+
+Here for the moment we must leave the great prelate of Winchester and
+begin our perambulation of the city that received him as a youth,
+welcomed him as a bishop, mourned him when dead, and that still bears on
+the long nave of its cathedral, and on its famous college, the impress
+of his manly, robust, and essentially English mind.
+
+By way of a footpath leading from the London and South-Western Railway
+station, the upper part of the famous High Street can be reached,
+although the thoroughfare now possesses but few features of interest
+until we arrive at the old West Gate, a reminder, if such were needed,
+that Winchester was a heavily fortified and strongly walled city. On the
+right is Castle Hill, the site of the ancient castle wherein Stigand,
+Archbishop of Canterbury, was imprisoned and Matilda besieged, and from
+whose courtyard William Rufus set out on the hunting expedition to the
+New Forest which was attended by such fatal consequences. All that now
+remains of this stronghold is the fine old hall built by Henry III.
+
+For some time this apartment was used as the County Hall, and here Judge
+Jeffreys opened his Bloody Assize before proceeding to Dorchester,
+Exeter, and Taunton. Alice Lisle was the widow of John Lisle, who had
+been Master of St. Cross Hospital, and member for Winchester in the Long
+Parliament. Although the men of Hampshire had taken no part in
+Monmouth's Rebellion, many of the fugitives had fled thither, and two of
+them, John Hickes, a Non-conformist divine, and Richard Nelthorpe, a
+lawyer, found refuge in the house of Alice Lisle, where they were
+eventually discovered. At her trial, Alice Lisle stated briefly that,
+although she knew Hickes to be in trouble, she was quite ignorant of the
+fact that he had participated in the rebellion. When the jury said they
+doubted if the charge had been made out, Jeffreys was furious, and after
+another long consultation they returned a verdict of "Guilty". The next
+morning the judge pronounced sentence, and ordered the prisoner to be
+_burned alive_ that same afternoon. When remonstrances had poured in
+from all quarters, Jeffreys consented to the execution being postponed
+for five days; and the sentence was eventually commuted from burning to
+hanging. So the first victim of Monmouth's ill-fated rebellion was
+hanged on a scaffold in the market-place of Winchester.
+
+A striking object hanging at one end of the hall is the top of the
+reputed Round Table of King Arthur, painted in radiating white and green
+sections, with a portrait of the famous king inset, crowned and robed,
+and the Tudor rose in the centre, while around the circumference are
+the names of the knights in old black-letter characters. Doubtful though
+it is that the table is the actual one that figures in the Arthurian
+legends, yet it is certainly of great antiquity, and has been frequently
+referred to by more than one writer of mediaeval days. It has been
+conjectured that it may be nothing more than the wheel of fortune which
+Henry III commanded to be made for the castle. In later years another
+palace was started here by Charles II, the only portion that was
+completed being now used as barracks.
+
+Beyond the West Gate is an obelisk, set up in commemoration of a
+visitation of the Plague in 1669, when the country people brought their
+produce and left it outside the gate to be taken in by the city
+dwellers, who deposited the money for the goods in bowls of vinegar,
+whence it was abstracted by pincers, to avoid infection. The stone on
+which the exchanges were made is incorporated in the base of the
+obelisk.
+
+The West Gate is the only one that remains of the principal entrances to
+the city, as King's Gate, with the little church of St. Swithun perched
+on top, was of secondary importance. This West Gate escaped the fate
+that has overtaken so many of our old city gates owing to its having
+been used for some time as a smoking room for the adjacent hotel. This
+apartment above the crown of the gateway arch is, like that over the
+West Gate of Canterbury, used for the purposes of a museum, wherein are
+deposited such interesting relics as the Winchester bushel, cloth
+measures, and ancient instruments of punishment. At one time the room
+was used as a prison, and the walls are covered with names or marks made
+by those who were incarcerated here.
+
+The gate is of fourteenth-century date, the two panels with armorial
+bearings seen on the western side of the archway being later insertions.
+Through the gateway a delightful view is obtained of the picturesque
+High Street, with many a high-pitched gable rising above the masses of
+irregular architecture; while an ancient clock on a wooden bracket juts
+out from the old Queen Anne Guildhall, which has a statue of Her Majesty
+over the entrance, the Curfew Tower rising on one side of the building.
+A new Guildhall of greater architectural pretensions has been erected in
+the Broadway, the original one being now used as a shop.
+
+[Illustration: THE BUTTER CROSS]
+
+From the West Gate the High Street slopes down to the Itchen. On the
+right stands the old Butter Cross, in rather a cramped position. Two
+reasons have been given for its name: one, that during Lent, those
+wishing to eat butter could do so by consuming it by the cross; the
+other, and more probable, explanation is that here came farmers wishing
+to dispose of their butter, which they exposed for sale on the steps
+of the cross. The structure is of fifteenth-century date, but has been
+much restored, the only original figure on it being that of St.
+Amphibalus. Just beside the cross is the interesting little opening that
+leads into the Close, and in which is the entrance to St. Lawrence
+Church, of which nothing is visible from this point but the doorway, and
+the tower rising above the surrounding houses. This church has been said
+to be the Mother Church of the diocese of Winchester, an idea that may
+have owed its origin to the fact that before proceeding to the Cathedral
+to be enthroned the bishops designate enter this ancient church to robe
+and "ring themselves in". Only the other day, May 6, 1911, Dr. Talbot
+followed this old custom, and the people listened eagerly for the number
+of rings, as these are supposed to denote the number of years the bishop
+will be at the head of the diocese. It may be of interest to chronicle
+that Dr. Talbot rang nine times.
+
+Near the church at one time was an open space called the Square, where
+were situated the Pillory and Whipping Post. The palace of William I is
+said to have occupied this site, and St. Lawrence's Church may possibly
+have been the private chapel of the royal residence. A fragment of
+Norman masonry gives a certain amount of probability to the
+supposition, while at the beginning of last century some workmen
+excavating in Market Street came across the foundations of an ancient
+tower, of great thickness and strength. The present arched and narrow
+entrance from High Street leads to the fine avenue of limes that forms
+the principal approach to the west front of the Cathedral, begun by
+Edington _circa_ 1360, the severe simplicity of which has been much
+criticized, Ruskin assailing it furiously in the _Stones of Venice_. On
+the apex of the gable is a canopied niche containing a statue of
+Wykeham.
+
+The present edifice is thought to stand approximately on the site of the
+earlier Saxon church restored by Ethelwold in 980, in which Queen Emma
+underwent the "fiery ordeal" by walking blindfold and barefooted over
+nine red-hot plough-shares, thus proving her innocence of the charges
+brought against her, and furnishing her accusers with an example of what
+female chastity is able to accomplish. The main portion of the structure
+as seen to-day was begun by Bishop Walkelin about 1079, and completed
+some fourteen years later. It is the longest of English churches,
+measuring externally 566 feet, and internally 562-1/2 feet, being a few
+feet longer than St. Alban's, which has the same plan; although we must
+remember that when the nave of Winchester terminated at the west in two
+large towers the whole mass was 40 feet longer than at present.
+
+The vista of the whole block of masonry, with its stumpy tower and
+heavily buttressed walls, conveys the idea of immense strength rather
+than of gracefulness; while its situation at the bottom of a hill, and
+near the bank of the river, is one of great charm.
+
+It is when the nave is entered that the full beauty and vast proportions
+of the Norman church are revealed, for this is in essence a Norman
+building encased with Perpendicular details and additions. As Wykeham's
+alterations were merely added to the original piers, the stateliness of
+the whole remains. Full credit, of course, must be given to Wykeham for
+the wonderful skill he showed in this work of transformation, and in
+removing the heavy triforium, although the grandeur of the nave as a
+whole is due to the combined work of Walkelin and Wykeham. This
+alteration of styles in the nave was begun by Edington, continued by
+Wykeham, and completed by his successors in the see--Cardinal Beaufort
+and Bishop Waynflete--who built the stone vaulting of the roof. The
+tower at the intersection of the transepts is the second of its kind,
+the first, built by Walkelin, having fallen in 1107, owing, says
+tradition, to the wicked Red King having been buried beneath it. Of its
+rebuilding there are no records.
+
+So many detailed architectural histories of the building have appeared
+that its principal features must be familiar to every lover of our
+national architecture. There are, however, one or two features about
+this cathedral that should be noted. Apart from its great length, which
+is greater than any church in the world, with the exception of St.
+Peter's at Rome, it is remarkable for its parclose screens, with the
+mortuary chests upon them; and for the beauty and number of its
+chantries, in which it is richer than any other English cathedral. They
+are said to have been saved from destruction during the Civil War by the
+Parliamentary colonel, Fiennes, an old Wykehamist; and certain
+historians describe the dramatic incident of the colonel standing with
+drawn sword to protect the chantry of the founder of his Alma Mater from
+the iconoclastic tendencies of his troopers. The chantries number seven,
+and were built as chapels by bishops for their last resting-places.
+Within these chantries are the tombs of Edington, Wykeham, Waynflete,
+Beaufort, Gardiner, Langton, and Fox, all of whom were bishops of the
+diocese. Fox's chantry was carefully restored by Corpus Christi College,
+Oxford; and that of Waynflete by Magdalen College, as a mark of
+reverence and esteem for the memory of their respective founders.
+
+The first to be seen on entering the nave from the west is that of
+Wykeham, whose faith in the solidity of Norman building was so great
+that he did not hesitate to cut away more than a third of the two nave
+pillars between which it is placed. Within the chapel, said to have been
+built on the site of an altar to the Virgin, is the effigy of the
+bishop-builder, with flesh and robes coloured "proper", as the heralds
+say; and at his feet are the figures of his three favourite monks, to
+whom he left an endowment for the celebration of three masses daily in
+his chantry, while each was to receive one penny a day from the prior.
+The effigy lies on an altar tomb, in episcopal attire, the head-pillow
+supported by two angels. Five bays farther on is Edington's chantry, but
+without effigy, as also are those of Fox and Langton. Of the seven
+chantries those of Fox and Beaufort are usually considered the most
+beautiful.
+
+The proud Cardinal Beaufort, founder of the "Almshouse of Noble Poverty"
+at St. Cross, is represented by Shakespeare as dying in despair:
+
+     "Lord Cardinal, if thou think'st on Heaven's bliss
+     Hold up thy hand: make signal of thy hope.
+     He dies, and makes no sign!"
+
+Dean Kitchin writes: "One cannot look at his effigy, as it lies in his
+stately chantry, without noting the powerful and selfish characteristics
+of his face, and especially the nose, large, curved, and money-loving.
+The sums Beaufort had at his disposal were so large that he was the
+Rothschild of his day. More than once he lent his royal masters enough
+money to carry them through their expeditions."
+
+The mortuary chests are certainly among the most interesting things
+possessed by any English cathedral. They are supposed to contain the
+bones of Kings Eadulph, Kinegils, Kenulf, Egbert, Canute, Rufus, Edmund,
+Edred, Queen Emma, and Bishops Wina and Alwyn. They no doubt got much
+mixed up when removed from the crypt by Henry de Blois, and again when
+the chests were broken open by the Parliamentarians, so that a detailed
+identification has been made impossible. It is now generally
+acknowledged that the bones of Rufus are in one of these chests, and
+that the so-called Rufus tomb in the retro-choir is the burial place of
+some great ecclesiastic. Such at any rate is the opinion of Dean
+Kitchin, who has done so much to elucidate the past history of the city
+and its Cathedral.
+
+When one of these boxes was taken recently out of its enclosing chest
+and examined, it was found to have a roof something like a low gable,
+which was decorated with painting about a century later than the time of
+de Blois. On the outside appeared the words in Latin: "Here are together
+the bones of King Kinegils and of Ethelwolf". Four of the Italian
+chests that held the inner boxes were the gift of Bishop Fox. The
+other chests have revealed five complete sets of human bones, and among
+the remains in another were the bones of a female, possibly those of
+Queen Emma.
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE DEANERY]
+
+The visitor will not fail to have pointed out to him by the
+well-informed vergers the innumerable features of interest, such as the
+Lady Chapel, the retro-choir, the Holy Hole where the relics were kept,
+the black oak stalls of the choir, the fine pulpit given by Prior
+Silkstede, and the magnificent screen begun by Beaufort and completed by
+Fox. The monuments, apart from those contained in the chantries, are
+many, and include one surmounted by a beautifully wrought cross-legged
+effigy, which has not yet been identified. There are memorials or tombs
+of James I and Charles I, by le Suer, who wrought the statue of the
+latter at Charing Cross; Dr. Warton, Professor of Poetry at Oxford, and
+headmaster of Winchester; Jane Austen; and William Unwin, the intimate
+friend of Cowper. A flat stone, with an inscription by his
+brother-in-law, Ken, marks the resting-place of Izaak Walton, "whose
+book", a modern writer tells us, "makes the reader forget for the time
+the cruelty of his sport".
+
+The curiously carved font, whereon are depicted symbolical figures and
+incidents from the legendary life of St. Nicholas of Myra, bears much
+similarity to three others found in Hampshire--at St. Michaels',
+Southampton; East Meon; and St. Mary Bourne. They are all of the same
+era, and possibly the work of the same hand, being among the most
+interesting of our Norman fonts. The material of which they are made has
+never been settled, some authorities defining it as Tournai marble,
+others as basalt, and yet others as nothing more than slate.
+
+The roll of bishops is a remarkable one, and the see has had eleven who
+were also Lord Chancellors, the last being Wolsey in 1529.
+
+As we have seen, Winchester continued in favour with the reigning houses
+long after it had ceased to be a royal residence. Here Henry I was
+married to the Saxon Matilda, and here in the closing years of his life
+the aged Wykeham married Henry IV and Joan of Navarre; and here, too,
+came Philip of Spain and Henry VIII's sad daughter, Mary of England, to
+be wedded before the high altar, the chair on which the royal bride sat
+being still shown to visitors.
+
+For the architectural student the plan of the cathedral is not the least
+interesting feature of the building, for although it has an ambulatory
+which is semicircular internally, the plan is in other respects rather
+exceptional. It is what architects call a periapsidal plan, meaning that
+its eastern termination contains a processional aisle or ambulatory,
+designed mainly for the purpose of allowing a procession to pass round
+the high altar without entering the presbytery. In the crypt of
+Winchester Cathedral the plan of the early Norman church may be seen
+_sui generis_. A rather exceptional feature is that the eastern
+ambulatory is semicircular within but rectangular without, although the
+long chapel that projects from this ambulatory has an apsidal, not a
+rectangular, termination.
+
+To the receptive mind all our ancient cathedrals, and a few of our
+modern ones, possess a subtle atmosphere of their own, indescribable but
+plainly felt, both within and without their walls. In such an atmosphere
+we lose sight of the Winchester of to-day. It becomes ancient,
+ecclesiastical, historical, learned, and romantic. Here we return in
+imagination to the scenes of the Middle Ages, when love was attested by
+chivalrous deeds of arms done in honour of bright eyes, and poetry
+sounded its lyre in praise of him who had been most devoted to his
+Church, most faithful to his mistress, and most loyal to his king. As a
+whole, this Cathedral of Winchester is a vast building, simple almost to
+a fault, yet one that possesses a solemn repose unspeakably restful to
+mind and spirit--a sense of undisturbed harmony and refined yet massive
+simplicity. Towards eventide the shadows of the turrets and pinnacles
+creep, day by day, over the surrounding bands of greensward, their cool
+greys advancing inch by inch until they reach the spacious pavements,
+whereon they cast the symbols of our Christian faith in ruddy
+trefoil-headed slants of glory.
+
+Whatever else is omitted from the history of the Cathedral, mention must
+be made of the valiant efforts that have been and are still being made
+to preserve the stability of the structure. A few years ago the east end
+showed signs of subsidence, and ominous cracks appeared in the north
+transept, a part of the old Norman church. An examination of the fabric
+proved that herculean tasks were essential to save this portion of the
+edifice. It was agreed that only by extensive underpinning could the
+work be accomplished. It has been very costly, and funds are most
+urgently needed to complete the preservation, not only of the eastern
+end, but of the whole Cathedral. The cradle of woodwork erected to give
+temporary support to the eastern superstructure cost over a thousand
+pounds to fix, and up to date many thousands of pounds have been spent
+on the work. It was not until these temporary supports had been fixed
+and excavations begun that the magnitude of the task was fully revealed.
+The Cathedral was found to have been built on an old "water-bed" having
+a foundation of peat, the distance between the ground level and the
+firm gravel beneath the peat being 27 feet. The only hope of saving the
+east end was to remove the peat and fill in the spaces with concrete and
+cement. With the removal of the peat, however, there was so great an
+influx of water that pumping was of no avail. Two of the best divers in
+the kingdom were then procured, and by working on their backs and sides
+in 15 feet of muddy water they succeeded in laying the concrete bed.
+Owing to the same cause, the remainder of the structure will, sooner or
+later, have to be treated in the same way, and the thorough restoration
+of the west front cannot be long postponed. The difficulty of the work
+is realized when we consider that it takes a whole month to underpin 4
+feet of foundation. Owing to the cramped space and the darkness three
+weeks are spent in excavation; after which the divers require a week to
+place the concrete and cement in position. That so national a heritage
+will be saved, for the delight of our own and the instruction of future
+generations, must be the wish of all true lovers of the great building
+achievements of the past.
+
+The cathedral precincts are in excellent keeping with the repose and
+beauty of the building to which they form the court, and are full of
+historical memories. The palace of the Conqueror reached from Great
+Minster Street to Market Street, from High Street to the Square; and
+eastwards rose the "New Minster", and the Nuns' Abbey of St. Mary.
+
+To-day the greater part of the Close, with the Deanery and the various
+canonical residences, lies on the south side. Only a few slight
+fragments remain of the cloisters, the destruction of which could not
+have been considered possible by Wykeham. They were taken down by Bishop
+Horne in the reign of Elizabeth. The short row of Norman arches seen
+from the Close belonged to the old Chapter House, which is said to have
+been pulled down for the sake of its lead. The Deanery was the ancient
+house of the Priors, of which it contains many interesting memorials.
+Here are the Great Hall, now subdivided, and the Hospitium, used as
+stables. The Deanery entrance has three pointed arches, beneath which,
+as we have stated, the poor pilgrims and other wayfarers received food
+and alms. On his numerous visits to Winchester, Charles II used to lodge
+at the Deanery, until Prebendary Ken (afterwards Bishop of Bath and
+Wells) refused to allow Nell Gwynne to enter the house, with the result
+that she had to content herself with an inferior residence outside the
+precincts.
+
+Of Wykeham's "College of St. Marie", or New College, Oxford, this is not
+the place to speak, especially as it has already been dealt with in the
+"Oxford" volume of this "Beautiful England" series. His other
+"College of St. Mary", or, as it is commonly known, Winchester College,
+has a history extending far beyond that of most of our great public
+schools; and Winchester was celebrated for its educational institutions
+in Saxon days.
+
+[Illustration: WINCHESTER COLLEGE: THE OUTER GATEWAY FROM "ARCADIA"]
+
+Wykeham's idea in founding these two colleges was one for which he had
+no precedent before him, so that his design was to a large extent in the
+nature of an experiment. His idea, of course, was to enable those who
+proceeded from the Winchester to the Oxford College to receive a
+systematic and continuous education. Where Wykeham led, others were not
+long in following. Two of his successors in the see of Winchester,
+Waynflete and Fox, gave to Oxford the beautiful colleges of Magdalen and
+Corpus Christi respectively. Archbishop Chichele, one of Wykeham's first
+scholars, built St. Bernard's College, now St. John Baptist's, which he
+gave to the Cistercians before its completion; and later in life he
+founded the College of All Souls, while in his native village of Higham
+Ferrers, Northants, he built and endowed a school, bede-house, and
+church, which are among some of the loveliest pieces of building we
+possess. Henry VI made himself intimately acquainted with the works of
+Wykeham, and copied them for his two colleges of Eton, and King's
+College, Cambridge. Until Wykeham's time, schools had been under or
+connected with monastic houses; now they were distinct foundations, with
+priests still as masters, but priests secular and not religious. Wykeham
+was, indeed, the pioneer of the public-school system, of which, with all
+its shortcomings, England is so justly proud.
+
+Each of the bishop's colleges took about six years in building, and that
+at Oxford was the first to be finished. It must have been a proud day
+for Winchester when, on March 28, 1393, the "seventy faithful boys",
+headed by their master, came in procession from St. Giles's Hill, where
+they had been temporarily housed, and, all chanting psalms, entered into
+possession of their fair college.
+
+The buildings have been but little altered since their founder's day,
+and extend now, as then, on the south side of the Close, and along the
+bank of the Itchen. They consist mainly of two quadrangles, in the first
+of which, entered from College Street by a gateway, are the Warden's
+house and other offices. Here is the brewhouse, quite unaltered; but the
+Warden's house has absorbed the old bakehouse, slaughterhouse, and
+butcher's room. Over the second archway are figures of the Virgin, with
+Gabriel on her right, and Wykeham kneeling on her left. Here was a room
+for the Warden, from which he could see all who entered or left the
+college; and here also is the site of the old penthouse under which the
+scholars used to perform their ablutions, and which they called "Moab".
+The old Society comprised the Warden, ten Fellows, three Chaplains,
+sixteen Queristers, and seventy scholars. The boys, the chaplains, and
+the choristers lived within the inner quadrangle, the northern side of
+which is formed by the chapel and the refectory. The original chapel,
+with the exception of the beautiful fan-groining of its roof, was much
+defaced in the seventeenth century, but was restored in the nineteenth,
+when a new reredos was added. The refectory remains practically
+untouched, and has a roof enriched with some beautiful carved woodwork,
+the painted heads of kings and bishops, and some great mullioned
+windows. Over the buttery is the audit-room, hung with ancient and rare
+tapestries, and containing a large chest known as Wykeham's money box.
+The original schoolroom was in the basement, and has long been put to
+other uses. The chantry, the beautiful cloisters, and the chapel tower
+were all built after the founder's death, but he provided a wooden bell
+tower, which stood away from the chapel, so that the main building
+should not be injured by the vibration of the bells. The remaining
+portions are mostly modern, and the foundation has naturally been much
+enlarged since Wykeham's day, the last addition being the gateway in
+Kingsgate Street, erected as a memorial to the many Wykehamists who
+fell in the South African War.
+
+On the wall of a passage adjoining the kitchen is a singular painting,
+supposed to be emblematical of a "trusty servant", compounded of a man,
+a hog, a deer, and an ass. The explanatory words beneath it are
+attributed to Dr. Christopher Jonson, headmaster from 1560 to 1571.
+
+With the completion of Winchester College, Wykeham turned his attention
+to the Cathedral, although he was then seventy years of age. He lived to
+see his munificence bearing good fruit, and his foundations flourishing
+in reputation and usefulness; so that when he lay down to die, on
+September 27, 1404, in his palace of Bishops' Waltham, he could look
+back to a long life spent in the service of his Maker. The funeral
+procession moved slowly along the ten miles that separated palace from
+Cathedral through crowds of people mourning his loss. At the Cathedral
+door the prior met the procession, and the great bishop-builder was laid
+to rest in the beautiful chantry he had himself prepared. Four days
+before his death he made and signed his will, in which he bestowed gifts
+and legacies with the liberality that was so marked a characteristic of
+his life. That crowds of poor would attend his obsequies he was probably
+aware, for to each poor person seeking a bounty he bequeathed fourpence,
+"for the love of God and his soul's health". To the Cathedral, on
+which he had expended so much of his genius, he left money for its
+completion; and bequeathed to it many precious things, including a cross
+of gold in which was a piece of the "Tree of the Lord". Henry IV was
+forgiven a debt of five hundred pounds, and was to have a pair of
+silver-gilt basins, ornamented with double roses, which were probably
+given to Wykeham by Edward III, as a special mark of his favour. So we
+take leave of this master builder and munificent bishop, whose motto
+"Manners makyth man" is known the world over. The inscription on his
+tomb tells us of his works, but Wykeham needs no inscription so long as
+the stones of the Cathedral hold together, and his two fair colleges
+raise their buttressed walls beside the waters of the Isis and the
+Itchen.
+
+[Illustration: THE CLOISTERS, WINCHESTER COLLEGE]
+
+Returning to the Butter Cross, the Piazza adjoining reminds one of the
+Butter Walk at Dartmouth, and the famous "Rows" of Chester. It was used
+for many years as a market where the country folk brought their produce,
+being then known as the "Penthouse". The mints established on the site
+by Athelstan were noted for the excellence of the coinage made there. In
+the Westgate Museum an old leaden box is shown which was discovered at
+Beauworth by a shepherd. It was found to contain some six thousand
+silver pennies of the coinage of William I and Rufus. In addition to its
+famous mints Winchester was the chief trading centre of this part of
+England during mediaeval days. A great woollen trade was carried on with
+Flanders when the city became one of the "staple" towns, still
+commemorated by "Staple Gardens", a narrow lane leading out of the north
+side of High Street, where the great warehouse for the storage of wool
+once stood. A little below the Queen Anne Guildhall, but on the opposite
+side of the street, is St. John's Hospital; while another old lane
+leading off from the main thoroughfare is Royal Oak Passage, at the
+junction of which with the street is the ancient house known as
+God-begot House, with some good timberwork and a fine gable. "Jewry"
+Street recalls to our memory the early settlement of the Jews in
+Winchester, for the citizens seem to have been more kindly disposed
+towards this persecuted race than those of the majority of English
+cities at an early period in their history. Richard of Devizes, in 1189,
+called Winchester the "Jerusalem of the Jews", and, writing of the
+massacre and plunder of the Jews in London and other cities, said:
+"Winchester alone, the people being prudent and circumspect and the city
+always acting mildly, spared its vermin". The Jews settled in Winchester
+between the years 1090 and 1290, landing at Southampton and making
+their way up the Itchen until they came in sight of the old capital of
+the kingdom. Crossing the river, they entered the city by the East Gate,
+and finally chose as their abiding-place a site near the north walls, in
+a thoroughfare then known as "Scowrtenstrete", Shoemakers' Row. The
+community soon could boast of a synagogue, and were the possessors of
+several schools. At the bottom of the High Street are the Abbey Gardens,
+so called from their being on the site of an abbey founded by Ealhswith,
+King Alfred's queen, in which to spend the years of her widowhood. The
+general plan of the gardens has probably been but little altered since
+the days when the nuns paced their shady paths in pious meditation. An
+ancient manuscript of prayers, used by the abbess in the ninth century,
+is preserved in the British Museum. Ealhswith's son, Edward the Elder,
+levied a toll from all merchandise passing under the City Bridge by
+water, and beneath the East Gate by land, for the better support of the
+abbey founded by his mother. Before the bridge stood the East Gate, and
+crossing we are in that part of the city known as the "Soke". In the
+"Liberty of the Soke" the bishop of the diocese had his court, presided
+over by the bailiff as his deputy. Thus the bishop's jurisdiction was
+entirely independent of that of the civic authorities. Wolvesey was his
+palace, and within its walls, now ivy-clad and crumbling to decay, he
+held his court, with three tithing men and a constable to assist him.
+Here also was his exchequer, and here he imprisoned those who offended
+against his laws. All that now remains of the once celebrated episcopal
+palace of Wolvesey--said, with no authority, to have been so named from
+the tribute of wolves' heads levied upon the Welsh by King Edgar--are a
+few ruined walls, of sufficient extent to give one an idea of the
+strength of the castle in its original state. At Wolvesey King Alfred
+brought together the scholars who were to aid him in writing the
+"Chronicles of the Time"; and on the outer walls he hung the bodies of
+Danish pirates as a warning to those who made periodical raids up the
+valley of the Itchen.
+
+In the hands of Bishop de Blois the palace became of great importance,
+and withstood a siege by David, King of Scotland, and Robert, Earl of
+Gloucester. De Blois was one of those who assisted at the coronation of
+Henry II, and pulled down the tower when the bishop was absent from the
+diocese without the royal permission, on a visit to Clugny. Although
+shorn of much of its former strength, the palace remained a fortress
+until the fortifications of Winchester were reduced to a heap of ruins
+by Cromwell.
+
+[Illustration: RUINS OF WOLVESEY CASTLE]
+
+Beyond the City Bridge rises St. Giles's Hill, named after Giles, one
+of those numerous hermit saints who played so prominent a part in
+establishing the Christian faith in these islands. The hill is deeply
+grooved by a railway cutting; on it was held for many centuries a kind
+of open market or annual fair, which attracted the wealthy merchants of
+France, Flanders, and Italy. The fair generally lasted a fortnight,
+during which time all other local business was suspended, the shops
+closed, and the mayor handed over the keys of the city to the bishop,
+who claimed large fees from the stall holders. Thirty marks were paid
+for repairs needed at the Church of St. Swithun, and similar sums were
+demanded by the abbeys. Bishop Walkelin was granted the tolls of the
+fair for three days by William Rufus, his kinsman; but in the time of
+Henry III the privilege was extended to sixteen days. The stalls were
+arranged in long rows, and named according to the goods sold thereon, or
+after the nationality of the vendors. Thus one row would be named the
+Street of Caen, another that of Limoges, while the Drapery and Spicery
+stalls were held by the monks of St. Swithun, who proved themselves
+energetic traders at the great annual fair, which lasted until modern
+times, and was removed in due course from St. Giles's Hill into the
+city. Dean Kitchin writes: "As the city grew stronger and the fair
+weaker, it slid down St. Giles's Hill and entered the town, where its
+noisy ghost still holds revel once a year".
+
+At the present day St. Giles's Hill is a pleasant spot from which to
+view the venerable city. Down the valley, by the Itchen, rises the
+Hospital and Church of St. Cross, a picturesque and peaceful group of
+buildings viewed from any position, but particularly so taken in
+conjunction with the ancient city and the fertile valley threaded by
+numberless small streams. On the left side of the valley is St.
+Catherine's Hill, a bold and outstanding spur crowned with a small belt
+of trees surrounded by a circular earthwork. At one time a chapel
+dedicated to St. Catherine capped the hill, and slight traces of the
+building may yet be seen. Here is the interesting maze, said to have
+been made by a Winchester College boy who was obliged to remain behind
+during the holidays, but probably of a different origin, some
+antiquaries holding the opinion that it is of great antiquity, and in
+some way connected with ecclesiastical penance.
+
+Looking citywards, one can see the towers of many churches rising above
+the gables and chimneys of the houses. Near at hand are St. Peter's,
+Cheeshill, and St. John's, the former an interesting little building
+with a mixture of styles, among which the Norman and Early English
+predominate, the windows being of a later period. The bell turret is
+situated at the south-east corner of the building, which, as a whole,
+gives a singular impression, due to the fact that it is nearly as broad
+as it is long. St. John's Church is the most interesting in the city,
+containing as it does a fine rood screen, with the rood-loft stairs
+still existing in a turret of fifteenth-century date. Other features of
+interest are the fourteenth-century Decorated screens that enclose the
+chancel on each side, and an arched recess at the east end of the north
+wall, containing an altar-tomb with quatrefoil panels supporting shields
+on which are the symbols of the Passion. The tomb itself bears neither
+inscription nor date.
+
+Here also are a set of carved bench ends, a Perpendicular pulpit, and an
+octagonal font.
+
+Unfortunately, most of the other churches of Winchester have been either
+rebuilt or so altered as to retain very little of their original
+architecture. The Church of St. Maurice, rebuilt in 1841, has saved a
+Norman doorway, fragments of a fine Decorated screen which now serve for
+altar rails, and an ancient chest.
+
+Like most of our cathedral cities, Winchester is well supplied with
+charitable institutions, although the best known of them all, the famous
+Hospital of St. Cross, is situated a mile away from the city proper. The
+Hospital of St. John, within Winchester, is one of the oldest
+foundations of the kind in the country, and a portion of the vaulted
+kitchen remaining in the building may not unreasonably be supposed to
+have formed part of the almshouse thought to have been founded on the
+spot in A.D. 935 by St. Brinstan. The chapel connected with the charity
+dates from the time of the third Henry, and contains a piece of
+fourteenth-century carving depicting the nimbed head of the Saviour,
+which is now built into a wall. Considerable doubt exists as to the
+original founder and early re-founders of this hospital, and little is
+known concerning it until the time of Edward II, when John Devenish
+re-founded it. At that period it seems to have been for the "sole relief
+of sick and lame soldiers, poor pilgrims, and necessitated wayfaring
+men, to have their lodging and diet there for one night, or longer, as
+their inability to travel may require". Many influential citizens left
+money or property to this charity. In 1400 Mark le Faire, Mayor of
+Winchester, bequeathed to it several houses, including the "great inn
+called the George", and the "house under the penthouse where Mr. Hodgson
+died". Richard Devenish, in the time of Henry VI, left a sum of money to
+provide for a more frequent performance of divine service in the chapel;
+but in the reign of Henry VIII these and other funds were confiscated,
+although the building itself was subsequently restored to the
+Corporation.
+
+[Illustration: BEAUFORT TOWER AND AMBULATORY, ST. CROSS]
+
+After the Reformation, Ralph Lambe re-founded the charity for six
+poor and needy persons, who were to have six separate homes or chambers
+within the hospital, each furnished with locks and keys. Each person was
+to receive ten shillings quarterly, with a gown value ten shillings, and
+ten shillings' worth of coal yearly. On the election of a new mayor each
+was to receive two shillings, and any funds remaining were to be divided
+among the inmates at the discretion of the mayor and aldermen of the
+city. This institution is still a flourishing one, and the original
+hall, standing to the west of the chapel, is let as a public
+dining-hall.
+
+Another old charity was that of St. Mary Magdalene, founded for lepers,
+in 1173-88, by Bishop Toclyve, the inmates being known locally as "the
+infirm people upon the hill", now Maun Hill. In early times lepers were
+required to give up the whole of their personal goods, and one of the
+questions asked by the official visitor to the Hospital of St. Mary
+Magdalene was whether the goods of the deceased inmates went to the
+works of the church after the settlement of debts. The funds of this
+foundation were much tampered with at various times, and it lost some of
+its property at the Reformation. One of its benefactors left to it four
+flitches of bacon yearly, this being an important article of diet. The
+original plan of the hospital was quadrangular: on two sides were the
+inmates' rooms and the chapel, the remaining sides being occupied by the
+Master's House and the common hall. The buildings were much damaged in
+the time of Charles I by the troops stationed there, and again in the
+reign of Charles II by the Dutch prisoners confined within the hospital.
+The chapel was pulled down in 1788, and the materials were used for
+building purposes, when the fine Early Norman doorway was used in the
+Roman Catholic Church in St. Peter Street, where it may still be seen.
+This was the west doorway of the ancient hospital chapel. The site is
+now occupied by a hospital of another character, the isolation hospital,
+but the old "lepers' well" can still be seen. The charity survives to
+some extent in six cottages in Water Lane, built in 1788, wherein are
+housed four men and four women.
+
+In Symond's Street stands the picturesque "Christes Hospital", founded in
+1586 by James Symonds. It is generally called the "Bluecoat" Hospital,
+from the distinctive dress worn by the inmates. A scholastic institution
+was attached to this charity for the education of four poor boys, chosen
+by the mayor and corporation, who also elected their teacher. The latter
+was not to be, in the terms of the founder, either a "Scotchman, an
+Irishman, a Welshman, a foreigner, or a North-countryman", lest their
+pronunciation of the English language should suffer.
+
+From among the fertile meadows bordering the banks of the Itchen to the
+south of Winchester rises the stately grey pile of St. Cross, standing
+where it has stood for over seven and a half centuries, a witness alike
+to the munificence of its founders, de Blois and Beaufort, and to the
+skill of the mediaeval builders.
+
+A good road leads from the city to the pleasing suburb in which the
+hospital is situated, though a far pleasanter way is by one of the field
+paths through the meadows.
+
+Henry de Blois became bishop when only twenty-eight years old, and in
+1136 he founded the hospital for the entire support of "thirteen poor
+men, feeble and so reduced in strength that they can hardly or with
+difficulty support themselves without another's aid"; and they were to
+be supplied with "garments and beds suitable to their infirmities, good
+wheate bread daily of the weight of 5 marks, and three dishes at dinner
+and one at supper, suitable to the day, and drink of good stuff".
+
+Besides this, he provided for a hundred poor men to be supplied daily
+with dinner. Bishop Toclyve, de Blois's successor in the see, added to
+the charity the feeding of yet another hundred poor men daily; and it
+has been said, on somewhat slight evidence, that the poorer scholars of
+Winchester College dined without fee in the "Hundred Men's Hall".
+
+In 1137 the management of the institution was given over to the Knights
+of St. John of Jerusalem; the cross still worn as a badge by the
+Brethren is a link with the ancient Order, being the cross _potent_, or
+Jerusalem cross, which was an insignia of the Kingdom of Jerusalem
+established by the Crusaders.
+
+[Illustration: ST. CROSS FROM THE MEADOWS]
+
+Shortly after the death of de Blois a dispute arose between the
+Hospitallers and the bishop, but after the lapse of many years the
+management was restored to the latter, then Peter de Rupibus, who
+appointed Alan de Soke as Master. In 1446, Cardinal Beaufort, Wykeham's
+successor in the see, added a new foundation to St. Cross, to be called
+"The Almshouse of Noble Poverty". De Blois's charity had been intended
+to benefit the very needy; this of Beaufort's was designed for those who
+had fallen upon evil days after a life of ease and comfort. There were
+to be two priests, thirty-five brethren, and three sisters. The brethren
+were to be of gentle birth, or old servants of the founder. The scheme,
+however, was never completed, owing to the Wars of the Roses
+intervening, with the result that the estates with which he had intended
+to endow his almshouse were claimed by the Crown on the accession of the
+House of York. So it came about that in 1486 Bishop Waynflete was
+compelled to reduce the recipients of Beaufort's charity to one priest
+and two brethren. Fortunately, St. Cross was spared at the
+Reformation, and its endowments were not confiscated. The Vicar-General
+reported that there were "certain things requiring reformation", and
+that sturdy beggars were to be "driven away with staves"; also that the
+Lord's Prayer and the Creed were to be taught in English, and that
+relics and images were not to be brought out for the devotion of
+pilgrims. In 1632 Archbishop Laud caused a strict enquiry to be made,
+with the result that the Master, Dr. Lewis, reported that the fabric was
+in a state of great dilapidation. This Master lost his post through his
+loyalty to Church and King, and John Lisle, the regicide, became Master
+of the Hospital until Cromwell made him a peer, when his place was
+filled by John Cooke, the Solicitor-General who drew up the indictment
+against Charles I. Both these regicides met with misfortune, for Cooke
+was executed and Lisle assassinated, so that at the Restoration Dr.
+Lewis was restored to the mastership. Between the years 1848 and 1853,
+chancery suits, costing a large sum of money, resulted in an entirely
+new scheme being drawn up, under which the two charities were treated as
+separate foundations under one head. The differences of qualification
+between the two sets of Brethren are carefully laid down, and a portion
+of the income is used for the maintenance of fifty out-pensioners, the
+modern equivalent for the "Hundred Poor Men" of mediaeval days. The
+distinctive dresses of the Brethren are the same with regard to colour
+and cut as those worn in the time of Henry VI, those worn by the
+recipients of Beaufort's charity being of red cloth, with the badge, a
+cardinal's hat and tassels on a silver plate, worn on the left breast.
+The Brethren of the older institution, founded by de Blois, wear black
+gowns, with the silver cross _potent_ pinned on the left breast. On the
+death of a Brother the cross is placed on a red velvet cushion and laid
+on his breast in the coffin; but before burial the cross is removed and
+fastened by the Master on the breast of the Brother elected in place of
+the deceased.
+
+The Hospital buildings consist of an outer courtyard and gateway, to the
+right of which are the kitchens, and on the left the old brewhouse and
+remains of some of the earlier buildings. Immediately facing us is the
+tower gateway, thoroughly restored, if not built originally, by Cardinal
+Beaufort, under the groined archway of which is the porter's lodge,
+where the "Wayfarers' Dole" is still distributed to all who apply at the
+hatchway, an interesting and almost sole survival of the mediaeval
+custom by which food and drink were offered to passers-by. The daily
+dole at the present day consists of two gallons of ale and two loaves of
+bread, divided into thirty-two portions. The apartment over the archway
+is the Founder's room, wherein are stored all the ancient documents
+relating to the foundation. Beaufort's arms appear in one of the
+spandrels above the gateway arch, the corresponding spandrel exhibiting
+the ancient regal arms of England. On this side of the entrance are
+three niches, one of which contains a figure of the cardinal in a
+kneeling posture. The vacant niche in the south front once held a statue
+of the Virgin, which fell to the ground more than a century ago, and
+nearly killed one of the Brethren in its descent.
+
+Passing through this noble gateway, which, somehow or other, does not
+look as old as we know it to be, we enter the great quadrangle, around
+which the various buildings are grouped. On the eastern side is the
+Infirmary, with the Ambulatory beneath it, a long, low cloister of
+sixteenth-century date, which extends along the whole side to the
+church. In one of the rooms above, a window opens into the church, where
+there may once have been a gallery to enable the infirm to hear the
+services. In 1763 Bishop Hoadley granted a license to the Master to pull
+down the cloister and use the materials for other purposes, but
+fortunately this was never done. On the opposite side of the quadrangle
+are the houses of the Brethren. Each dwelling consists of two rooms and
+a pantry, and has a garden attached.
+
+The Brethren's Hall stands on the north side of the quadrangle, and is
+a portion only of the old "Hundred Mennes Hall"; but enough is left to
+enable one to form a good idea of the original apartment, which measured
+36 feet by 24 feet, until a portion was cut off to provide rooms for the
+Master, who is now lodged in a modern dwelling outside the gates. At the
+east end of the hall is a table where the officials sat, those for the
+Brethren being ranged along the sides. Some black-leather jacks,
+candlesticks, salt-cellars, pewter dishes, and a dinner bell, all dating
+from Beaufort's time, are still carefully preserved. At the opposite end
+of the hall is a screen with the minstrels' gallery above, whence, on
+high days and holidays, the Brethren were enlivened with music during
+their feastings. The chief festivals of the year were All Saints' Day,
+Christmas Day, New Year's Day, Twelfth Day, and Candlemas Day, on which
+occasions the Brethren had "extraordinary commons, and on the eve of
+which days they had a fire of charcoal in the Common Hall, and one jack
+of six quarts and one pint of beer extraordinary, to drink together by
+the fire. And on the said feast-day they had a fire at dinner, and
+another at supper in the said hall, and they had a sirloin of beef
+roasted, weighing forty-six pounds and a half, and three large
+mince-pies, and plum broth, and three joints of mutton for their supper,
+and six quarts and one pint of beer extraordinary at dinner, and six
+quarts and one pint of beer after dinner, by the fireside; six quarts
+and a pint at supper, and the like after supper." During Lent, each
+brother had eight shillings paid to him instead of commons, and on Palm
+Sunday the Brethren had a "green fish, of the value of three shillings
+and fourpence, and their pot of milk pottage with three pounds of rice
+boiled in it, and three pies with twenty-four herrings baked in them,
+and six quarts and one pint of beer extraordinary". On Good Fridays they
+had at dinner "in their pot of beer a cast of bread sliced, and three
+pounds of honey, boiled together, which they call honey sop". Beneath
+the hall is a fine vaulted cellar, of ample proportions, a worthy
+resting-place for the stock of St. Cross ale.
+
+[Illustration: THE BRETHREN'S HALL, ST. CROSS]
+
+But, interesting as are all these portions of the Hospital of St. Cross,
+it is the church which has the greatest attraction for architect and
+antiquary alike, for it contains good examples of every style. From
+Romanesque, through Norman and Early English, to Later Decorated, and to
+Transition Norman, the church is considered to be the best example in
+existence. This building, unfinished after nearly two hundred years, was
+roofed with lead, in place of the thatch which originally covered it, by
+William of Edyndon, the famous Wiltshireman who became Master of St.
+Cross in the fourteenth century, and who restored the fabric from the
+ruinous state in which he found it to a condition of beauty and
+strength. The windows of the clerestory were erected by him; he
+re-roofed the "Hundred Menne's Hall", and built a new chamber for the
+Master.
+
+On entering the church, through the north porch, one is struck by its
+loftiness and dignity, the vaulting throughout being of stone, while
+almost every ornamental feature of the Norman style can be seen.
+Proceeding to the western end of the church, and looking down the nave,
+the gradual development of its architecture can be well seen. The east
+end is Norman, the bay next the transepts Transition Norman, while the
+west end is Early English. The windows vary from Norman and Transition
+Norman to Early English, while those of the clerestory are Decorated.
+Mention must be made of the fine stone screens and tabernacle-work on
+either side of the altar, the altar slab of Purbeck marble, the
+triforium of intersecting arches in the choir, and the roof pendants.
+The western portion of the church was built during the mastership of
+Peter de Sancto Mario, and his fine canopied tomb is a striking object
+on the north side of the nave. Interesting, too, are the beautiful
+fourteenth-century tiles, some bearing the appropriate motto "Have
+Mynde"; and a very human note is struck in the mason's marks, still to
+be seen in various parts of the building, especially around the
+staircase door in the south transept. What these signs actually mean is
+unknown, but some authorities, notably Leader Scott in her work on
+_Cathedral Builders_, trace them through the Comacine Guild to the Roman
+_Collegia_.
+
+In the south-east corner of the south transept, on the exterior of the
+church, is a "triple-arch", which is thought to have been a doorway, and
+may have led to the "clerken-house", the original habitation of the
+seven choristers and their master, but which was pulled down by de
+Cloune, Master of St. Cross in the fourteenth century, who also allowed
+other parts of the fabric to fall into a state of great dilapidation.
+Here also, on the south side of the quadrangle, stood the original
+houses of Beaufort's foundation, which were not pulled down until 1789.
+
+No groups of buildings are in their way more charming or more
+impregnated with human associations than the famous episcopal foundation
+of St. Cross--an asylum of peace and rest, comfort and repose, to those
+who find shelter within its ancient walls, and a standing monument to
+the memory of the pious Henry de Blois and the princely churchman,
+Cardinal Beaufort. Winchester, like many an English city, would be shorn
+of much of its interest were this benevolent institution to be removed.
+The general air of peace and quietude, the grass-bordered walks, the
+stately church, all contribute to convey an appeal which is almost
+sacred in its simple eloquence. In the words of one who loved it well:
+"No one can pass its threshold without feeling himself landed, as it
+were, in another age. The ancient features of the building, the noble
+gateway, the quadrangle, the common refectory, the cloister, and, rising
+above all, the lofty and massive pile of the venerable church, the
+uniform garb and reverend mien of the aged brethren, the common
+provision for their declining years, the dole at the gatehouse, all lead
+back our thoughts to days when men gave their best to God's honour, and
+looked on what was done to His poor as done to Himself, and were as
+lavish of architectural beauty on what modern habits might deem a
+receptacle for beggars, as on the noblest of royal palaces. It seems a
+place where no worldly thought, no pride, or passion, or irreverence
+could enter; a spot where, as a modern writer has beautifully expressed
+it, a good man, might he make his choice, would wish to die."
+
+The country around this beautiful city by the Itchen is full of quiet
+charm, for life's ever-changing drama has but one and the same
+background. The actors come and go, but the stage remains much the same,
+and the devotions, the meditations, and the acts of men who lived
+centuries ago were set in the amphitheatre of the same green hills, and
+took place beside the same winding river as those we gaze upon to-day.
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL]
+
+Literature, too, has worthy names here in Izaak Walton and Jane Austen,
+both of whom lie buried in the cathedral; while the house at Winchester
+in which the author of _Persuasion_ lived, for a brief period before
+her death, stands beyond the college gate. Above the door is a wooden
+tablet recording that here Jane Austen spent her last days, dying July
+18, 1817. She had previously resided at Chawton for some eight years,
+but her house in the village is now a Workmen's Club. At the same time,
+Chawton is a pretty little spot, watered by land springs, known locally
+as "lavants"; while some few miles away is Farrington, where Gilbert
+White, of "Selborne" fame, was curate.
+
+Other literary associations of the Winchester country are those
+furnished by Hursley, where John Keble was vicar; by Otterbourne, the
+home for many years of Charlotte Yonge; and by Eversley, where
+Winchester's immortal son, Charles Kingsley, lies buried.
+
+Each succeeding visit to Winchester can only strengthen one's love for
+the city, and one's reverence for the Cathedral in its midst. Our
+pilgrimage of Winchester the beautiful is over.
+
+PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN
+
+_At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland_
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Winchester, by Sidney Heath
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+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content=
+    "text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"/>
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Winchester, by Sidney Heath.
+    </title>
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Winchester, by Sidney Heath
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Winchester
+
+Author: Sidney Heath
+
+Release Date: April 25, 2005 [EBook #15706]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WINCHESTER ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Ted Garvin, Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<h1>WINCHESTER</h1>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="image001.jpg" id="image001.jpg"></a><img src="images/image001.jpg" width='406' height='600' alt="THE CLOSE GATE" /></p>
+
+<h4>THE CLOSE GATE</h4>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h1>WINCHESTER</h1>
+
+
+<h2>Described by Sidney Heath</h2>
+
+<h2>Pictured by E.W. Haslehust</h2>
+
+
+<p class="center">
+<img src="images/title.png"
+alt="Title Image" title="" />
+</p>
+<h3>BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED</h3>
+
+<h4>LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY</h4>
+
+<h4>1911</h4>
+
+<div class='solid'>
+
+<h2>Beautiful England</h2>
+
+<p class='center'><i>Volumes Ready</i></p>
+
+<table border='0' cellspacing='20' cellpadding='0' summary='advert'>
+  <tr>
+    <td>OXFORD</td>
+    <td>THE HEART OF WESSEX</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>THE ENGLISH LAKES</td>
+    <td>THE PEAK DISTRICT</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>CANTERBURY</td>
+    <td>THE CORNISH RIVIERA</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>SHAKESPEARE-LAND</td>
+    <td>DICKENS-LAND</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>THE THAMES</td>
+    <td>WINCHESTER</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>WINDSOR CASTLE</td>
+    <td>THE ISLE OF WIGHT</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>CAMBRIDGE</td>
+    <td>CHESTER AND THE DEE</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>NORWICH AND THE BROADS</td>
+    <td>YORK</td>
+  </tr>
+
+</table>
+
+<hr />
+<p class='center'><i>Uniform with this Series</i></p>
+
+<h2>Beautiful Ireland</h2>
+
+<table border='0' cellspacing='20' cellpadding='0' summary='advert'>
+  <tr>
+    <td>LEINSTER</td>
+    <td>MUNSTER</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>ULSTER</td>
+    <td>CONNAUGHT</td>
+  </tr>
+
+</table>
+
+</div>
+
+<h3>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h3>
+
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents">
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image001.jpg">The Close Gate</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image002.jpg">The City Bridge</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image003.jpg">Winchester Cathedral from the Deanery Gardens</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image004.jpg">Wykeham's Chantry</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image005.jpg">The Butter Cross</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image006.jpg">Entrance to the Deanery</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image007.jpg">Winchester College: The Outer Gateway from "Arcadia"</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image008.jpg">The Cloisters, Winchester College</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image009.jpg">Ruins of Wolvesey Castle</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image010.jpg">Beaufort Tower and Ambulatory, St. Cross</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image011.jpg">St. Cross from the Meadows</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image012.jpg">The Brethren's Hall, St. Cross</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image013.jpg">Plan of Winchester Cathedral</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="center">
+<img src="images/pg5.png"
+alt="Winchester" title="Winchester" />
+</p>
+
+<h2>WINCHESTER</h2>
+
+<p>Few of our English cities are more strikingly
+situated than the once royal city of Winchester,
+which lies on the slopes and along the bed of a
+chalk valley watered by the River Itchen. The greater
+part of the present city is situated on the right bank
+of the river, while the best general view of it is justly
+considered to be that obtained by looking across
+the Vale of Chilcomb, from the road to Portsmouth.
+Of the Itchen valley, with its rich meadows and
+tranquil stream, William Cobbett was an enthusiastic
+admirer. "There are few spots in England", he
+exclaims, "more fertile, or more pleasant, none, I
+believe, more healthy. The fertility of this vale and
+of the surrounding country is best proved by the
+fact that, besides the town of Alresford, and that of
+Southampton, there are seventeen villages, each having
+its parish church, upon its borders. When we consider
+these things, we are not surprised that a spot
+situated about halfway down this vale should have
+been chosen for the building of a city, or that that
+city should have been for a great number of years
+the place of residence for the kings of England."</p>
+
+<p>To-day the beautiful river winds in and out of the
+ancient streets, and among the meadow lands, much
+as it did when Cobbett penned his <i>Rural Rides</i>,
+although many charming examples of domestic architecture,
+which then graced what was probably the most
+attractive High Street in England, have been demolished
+or restored beyond recognition. As it flows
+through the city proper, the river is divided up into
+a number of small streams abounding in trout; but
+after a brief course these rivulets unite just below
+the city, from whence the waterway is said to be
+navigable all the way to Southampton. The bridge
+at the foot of the High Street marks the former limit
+of the navigability of the river, and is the reputed
+site of the legend concerning St. Swithun and the
+old woman to whom the saint restored her eggs.</p>
+
+<p>Before the advent of the railway, that great destroyer
+of our ancient waterways, the Itchen was
+crowded with barges making their way from the
+maritime port to the inland city; for, like so many
+of our old British settlements, the site of Winchester
+was determined by the natural conditions of the
+land which could be utilized for the purposes of defence.
+Although every lock on the Itchen is now
+in ruins or choked by weeds, and the last of its fleet
+of brown-sailed barges is derelict, this is essentially
+a city whose origin goes back to the days when
+those who, coming cautiously up from Southampton
+Water, reached at length the practical part of the
+valley, where they built their stronghold under the
+shelter of the downs, yet within easy reach of the
+sea. It was by means of barges that much of the
+stone was brought for the building of the numerous
+churches and monastic buildings. This was brought
+from the Binstead Quarries in the Isle of Wight,
+from the Purbeck Quarries in Dorset, and possibly
+from Portland as well.</p>
+
+<p>There is ample evidence that Winchester was a
+British city (Caer-Gwent), and the Venta Belgarum
+of Roman days, when it was connected by roads
+with the other Roman cities of Andover, Silchester,
+Porchester, and Salisbury. With the taking of the
+town by the Saxons in 495 it became known as
+Wintanceastre, and here, after the final subjection
+of the Britons, the capital of Wessex was established.
+If the claim of Canterbury to be the "Mother City"
+of the Anglo-Saxon race be granted, few will deny
+to Winchester the honour of being her eldest and
+her fairest daughter. A royal city was this when
+Birinus, the apostle of Wessex, came hither in 634,
+on his way to the Oxfordshire Dorchester, to baptize
+the King of the West Saxons; and in 679 the episcopal
+see was established, a cathedral built, and a monastic
+house attached to it. It was from Wintanceastre
+that Egbert sent forth the decree which gave the
+name of Anglia to his kingdom; and here, by the
+tranquil waters of the Itchen, Alfred (with his friend,
+adviser, and tutor, St. Swithun), Athelstan, and Canute
+held their Courts, and directed their policies.</p>
+
+<p>It was during the reign of Athelstan that the
+redoubtable Guy, Earl of Warwick, returning to England
+in the garb of a palmer from a pilgrimage to
+the Holy Land, found the Danes besieging Winchester
+in great force, and King Athelstan unable to find a
+champion willing to meet the Danish giant, Colbrand,
+in order to decide the issue by single combat. The
+Earl, retaining his disguise as a palmer, begged the
+king to let him appear as the English champion.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="image002.jpg" id="image002.jpg"></a><img src="images/image002.jpg" width='407' height='600' alt="THE CITY BRIDGE" /></p>
+
+<h4>THE CITY BRIDGE</h4>
+
+<p>This singular combat, which was to decide the
+fate of the city, commenced by Guy breaking his
+spear on the giant's shield, and the Dane cutting the
+head off the Earl's horse. Guy then fought on foot,
+and, beating the club out of his opponent's hand, cut
+off his arm. So the duel waged until night, when
+the Dane, faint from loss of blood, fell to the ground,
+and his head was cut off by the English champion.
+Having settled the affair to the honour of his country
+and his own satisfaction, the Earl made himself
+known to the King, under an oath of secrecy, and
+returned thanks in the cathedral for his victory.
+He then retired to a hermitage beside the Avon,
+and passed the remainder of his life in the cave
+which still bears his name, and probably contains his
+bones.</p>
+
+<p>Several modern antiquaries are very sceptical about
+the whole story, and labour hard to prove that Guy
+was a mythical figure, and his deeds nothing but
+legendary lore. There is always some truth in these
+old legends, in spite of the frills and embellishments
+added by the later chroniclers, and the history of our
+land would be poor reading indeed if we banished
+the romantic legends merely because they are not
+confirmed by such dry-as-dust evidence as alone will
+satisfy a certain section of scientific compilers, whose
+minds can perceive neither truth nor beauty underlying
+ancient legends and traditions. The fact that
+they cannot be proved to have happened is more
+than half their charm, and our garden of romance,
+with its beautiful flowers of chivalry, is infinitely
+better to live with than the dry and parched fields
+given over to the cultivation of nothing but facts.</p>
+
+<p>The defeat of the Danish giant is said to have
+been achieved in a meadow to the north of the city,
+named from that occurrence "Danemark Mead"; and
+we are told also that the Dane's sword was to be
+seen in the Cathedral treasury down to the reign of
+James I. Be this as it may, we do know that in the
+eighth year of Edward I a writ of right was brought
+by the King against the Abbot of Hyde, to recover
+land usurped in the north suburb of the city, called
+"Denemarche", and judgment was given for the
+crown.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of the city in Saxon days has been
+described thus by Dean Kitchin: "The three Minsters,
+which filled up the south-eastern corner of the
+city, were for long the finest group of churches and
+dwellings in all England. Wolvesey Palace, at once
+the school, the court of justice, and the royal dwelling
+place, formed the bulwark against the dreaded invasions
+of the Dane; inwards from Wolvesey precincts came
+the strong enclosure of St. Swithun's Convent, a second
+fortress, which protected the church, and behind both,
+sheltered by their strong walls and by the river and
+the marshlands to the north, were the growing buildings
+of the Nuns' Minster, and the new Minster. And
+up the rising towards the west, on either side of the
+ancient Roman road from the eastward gate of the
+city, the houses of the citizens began to cluster into
+a street, with here and there a stone-built dwelling,
+and the rest made of that 'wattle and dab' construction,
+of which from time to time examples are still
+laid bare in the city."</p>
+
+<p>Although many historical persons flit across the
+scene throughout the centuries, the personal associations
+of Winchester are dominated by the outstanding
+figures of Alfred, St. Swithun, and the great clerical
+craftsman, William of Wykeham, the builder of much
+of the cathedral, and the founder of St. Mary's College,
+Winchester, and New College, Oxford&mdash;the former of
+which, although of later foundation, was intended as
+a stepping-stone for the latter.</p>
+
+<p>With the Norman Conquest, and the rapid rise of
+Westminster, the days of Winchester as the seat of
+government were numbered, although it was much
+favoured by the early Norman kings, possibly owing
+to its proximity to such hunting grounds as the New
+Forest Cranborne Chase (where King John's hunting
+lodge still stands), and the Royal Warren of
+Purbeck.</p>
+
+<p>William I had his great palace near the cathedral,
+and it was to Winchester that the body of William
+Rufus was brought on a cart, after his ill-fated death
+in the New Forest.</p>
+
+<p>Then the Domesday Book&mdash;if not compiled at
+Winchester&mdash;was kept there for many years, when
+it was called "The Book of Winton". In the seventh
+year of Henry II a charge appears in the Pipe Roll
+for conveying the "arca", in which the book was kept,
+from Winchester to London.</p>
+
+<p>There is naturally much in the life-history of St.
+Swithun that is incapable of proof. He was possibly
+born in the neighbourhood of Winchester about the
+year 800. He became a monk of the old abbey, and
+rose to be head of the community, when he gained
+the favour of King Egbert, who entrusted him with
+the education of his son Ethelwolf. There is an
+authentic charter granted by Egbert in 838, and
+bearing the signatures of Elmstan, <i>episcopus</i>, and
+Swithunus, <i>diaconus</i>. On the death of Elmstan, in
+852, Swithun was appointed his successor in the see,
+when, in addition to erecting several churches, and
+building a stone bridge over the Itchen, he appears
+to have enlarged and beautified the Saxon cathedral
+built by Kynewalch when Winchester became the
+seat of a bishopric in 679. The site of this Saxon
+church is considered to have been a little to the
+north of the present cathedral, which is a Norman
+building commenced by Walkelin a few years after
+the Conquest.</p>
+
+<p>St. Swithun is best known to-day in his capacity
+of weather prophet. In his humility he is said to
+have desired to be buried outside the church, so
+that the foot of the passer-by, and the rainwater from
+the eaves, could fall upon his grave; and here his
+body lay for more than a century. When his remains
+were eventually translated, a chapel was erected over
+the site of his grave at the north-east corner of the
+church, and faint traces of this building may still
+be seen. King Edgar provided the richly jewelled
+shrine into which the relics of the saint were translated
+by St. Ethelwold, on July 15, 980, when the
+relics of Birinus were enshrined at the same time,
+although these had already been translated from
+Dorchester to Winchester by Bishop Hedda as early
+as the seventh century. The shrine attracted an
+immense number of pilgrims until that of Becket
+at Canterbury rose into prominence. The skull of
+St. Swithun is said to have been taken to Canterbury
+by St. Elphege in the eleventh century, and
+an arm of this patron saint of Winchester was
+one of the most treasured possessions of Peterborough.
+What remained of these much-disturbed
+relics were re-translated by Bishop Walkelin from
+the old to the new cathedral, but in 1241 the shrine
+was broken by the vane of the tower falling through
+the roof.</p>
+
+<p>At the Reformation the shrine was destroyed, as
+is recorded in the commissioners' letter, dated September
+21, 1538:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"About three o'clock this Saturday morning, we made an end
+of the shrine here at Winchester. There was no gold, nor ring,
+nor true stone about it, but all great counterfeits; but the silver
+alone will amount to 2000 marks."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The popular tradition regarding St. Swithun's Day,
+July 15, is to the effect that, as it rains or is fair
+on this day, the ensuing forty days will be either
+wet or dry.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"St. Swithun's Day, if thou dost rain,</div>
+<div>For forty days it will remain:</div>
+<div>St. Swithun's Day, if thou be fair,</div>
+<div>For forty days 't will rain nae mair."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The tradition is said to be due to the saintly request
+being disregarded, with the result that, when his remains
+were about to be translated, a heavy rain burst
+forth, and continued without ceasing for the forty succeeding
+days. This was interpreted as a divine warning,
+so that, instead of disturbing the saintly bones,
+a chapel was erected over them. As a matter of
+fact, Professor Earle and other authorities assure us
+that the legend is fictitious, and that the translation
+was attended by the utmost &eacute;clat and success, and
+blessed with fine weather.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="image003.jpg" id="image003.jpg"></a><img src="images/image003.jpg" width='600' height='406' alt="WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL FROM THE DEANERY GARDENS" /></p>
+
+<h4>WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL FROM THE DEANERY GARDENS</h4>
+
+<p>Foreign pilgrims coming from Normandy and Brittany,
+on their way to the shrine of St. Swithun, or to
+that of St. Thomas of Canterbury, would land, many of
+them, at Southampton, and journey to Winchester,
+there to await other bands of pilgrims bound for the
+great Kentish shrine. This was the route taken by
+Henry II when he did penance before the tomb of the
+murdered Becket, in July, 1174. Although clearly seen
+in the wold of Surrey and the weald of Kent at the
+present time, it must be confessed that but faint traces
+of the Pilgrims' Way remain in Hampshire, although
+early chroniclers speak of an old road that led direct
+from Winchester to Canterbury. The great concourse
+of pilgrims to St. Swithun's shrine caused Bishop Lucy
+to enlarge much of the church, and in the reign of
+the first Edward the building still known as the
+Strangers' Hall was erected by the monks of St.
+Swithun for the poorer class of pilgrims, who here
+found food and shelter for the night. On their departure
+they repaired to the doors of the Prior's lodging&mdash;the
+three beautiful arches of which now form the
+entrance to the Deanery&mdash;where they were given alms
+and fragments of food to sustain them on their journey.</p>
+
+<p>The associations of Alfred with this ancient Wessex
+capital are many and various. He founded the famous
+Abbey of Hyde, situated without the city gates, known
+for long as the New Minster, and first removed from
+its original site near the cathedral in the twelfth century.
+That Alfred's remains were laid to rest somewhere
+within, or just without, the walls is beyond
+question, although the exact spot has not yet been
+definitely located. When the Benedictine monks of
+Hyde obtained a charter from Henry I in 1110, giving
+them leave to erect a new convent and church in the
+green meadows outside the north gate, they are said
+to have taken to their new home the wonder-working
+shrine of St. Josse, the silver cross given by Canute,
+and the bones of Alfred.</p>
+
+<p>At the Reformation, Thomas Wriothesley wrote to
+Cromwell saying:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"We intend both at Hyde and St. Mary to sweep away all
+the rotten bones that be called relics; which we may not omit,
+lest it be thought we came more for the treasure than for the
+avoiding of th' abomination of idolatry".</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>So the resting-place of the noblest of English
+kings remains unknown; but a passing antiquary is
+said to have carried off a stone marked with the
+words, "&AElig;LFRED REX, DCCCLXXXI", and this
+stone may still be seen at Corby Castle in Cumberland.</p>
+
+<p>Of Hyde Abbey nothing but an old gateway near
+St. Bartholomew's Church, and some slight fragments
+of wall, remain; but a considerable portion was standing
+until the ruins were pulled down to provide the
+site for a new Bridewell, which has vanished in its
+turn. The property has now come into the hands
+of the Corporation, and scientific excavations have
+been commenced. Strong hopes are entertained that
+Alfred's tomb may be found, although the iconoclasts
+of the Reformation and the Magistrates of later
+days have made the task a difficult, if not an impossible
+one. In 1901 Alfred's thousandth anniversary
+was celebrated at Winchester, and on September 20
+of that year Lord Rosebery unveiled Hamo Thorneycroft's
+magnificent bronze statue, standing in the
+Broadway, and bearing on its granite pedestal the
+single word, eloquent in its simplicity:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class='center'>AELFRED.</p>
+
+<p>Interesting and important as are the associations
+of Alfred and St. Swithun with this ancient capital
+of Wessex, the <i>genius loci</i> is William of Wykeham,
+one of the most remarkable men the world has ever
+produced. The more we study his life and character
+the more we are amazed at the versatile nature of
+his splendid gifts. Born, like Wolsey, the only other
+clerical architect with whom he can be compared,
+of humble parents, in the sleepy little village of Wickham,
+in the autumn of 1324, he early attracted the
+attention of Sir John Scures, the lord of the manor
+of Wickham, and Constable of Winchester Castle.
+By Sir John's influence he became a scholar at the
+Priory School, the "Great Grammar School of Winchester",
+then situated just outside the west wall of
+the priory enclosure. Taught by the brethren of
+St. Swithun's, he was eventually recommended to
+Bishop Edington, who appears to have appreciated
+the great talent for architecture shown by young
+Wykeham. Edington himself was no mean builder,
+and he had already begun to rebuild the west front
+of the cathedral, and to transform the nave from
+the Norman to the Perpendicular style, a transformation
+that was to be completed by Wykeham when
+he succeeded his old master in the episcopacy.</p>
+
+<p>In Wykeham's twenty-third year Edward III came
+to Winchester, and he, having heard of the clever
+young architect, wished to test his skill in the warfare
+then being waged against Scotland and France,
+and particularly in the new fortifications of Calais.
+On taking service with the King, plain William Wykeham
+became Sir William de Wykeham, and as Surveyor
+of Works he superintended such buildings as
+St. Stephen's Chapel, Westminster, and the castles of
+Dover and Queensborough. In 1356 he was in charge
+of Windsor Castle, which, as his birthplace, Edward
+wished to beautify by many additions. It has been
+said that the Round Tower Wykeham built at Windsor
+made the fortune of its designer. We now find Wykeham
+Warden of all the royal castles, and sub-dean
+of the church of St. Martins-le-Grand, on the site of
+which is the General Post Office; and as a public
+notary he was present at the signing of the Treaty
+of Bretigny.</p>
+
+<p>Possibly owing to the dearth of clergy caused by
+the Black Death, Wykeham, after the laying-on of
+hands by his old master, Bishop Edington, became
+an acolyte in the December of 1361, a sub-deacon
+in the March following, and priest in the June of 1362.
+A few years later, when Edington was laid to rest
+within his cathedral, a sharp controversy arose between
+the King and the Pope as to who should succeed.
+The differences, which need not be discussed here,
+being eventually settled to the satisfaction of both
+parties, Wykeham was offered the vacant see, when
+he said to the King:</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"Sire, I am unworthy, but wherein I am wanting myself, that
+will I supply by a brood of more scholars than all the prelates
+of England ever showed".</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>And how worthily he fulfilled his promise is a matter
+of history.</p>
+
+<p>To quote the authors of <i>Historic Winchester</i>:</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"There was a great stir in the old city when the day of
+Wykeham's enthronement arrived. It was the 9th of July, and
+the town would be looking especially beautiful in its bower of
+trees; an outrider had announced the bishop before he entered
+the city, probably by the north gate, and either here or at the
+entrance to the close he was met by the Archdeacon of Northampton,
+William Athey by name, who was commissioned to enthrone
+him: having saluted, the Archdeacon alighted from his
+palfrey, which according to the custom at that time was with
+all its trappings taken possession of by this ecclesiastic.... The
+bishop's robing most probably took place at the priory close by,
+from whence the procession, forming in the cloisters under the
+direction of Hugo de Basyng, prior of St. Swithun's, would pass to
+the west door, where it would be joined by the heads of the other
+monasteries in and near Winchester&mdash;Thomas de Pechy, Abbot of
+Hyde, holding highest rank amongst them. Next would follow
+long lines of monks clad in their robes of brown, black, white,
+or grey, according to their order, and then many a layman,
+gathered in from the country round to honour both Church and
+State on this occasion. The great procession, gorgeous with
+embroidered cope and many a rich vestment, with episcopal
+staff and crozier both of prior and abbot carried aloft, must
+have formed an imposing spectacle as it filed up the long nave
+of the cathedral, thronged, doubtless, to overflowing by many
+citizens&mdash;for unusual interest would be evinced by Winchester
+in this enthronement of one long known to them, now Chancellor
+of England and certainly, next to the King and Archbishop, the
+greatest man in the country."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>As bishop, Wykeham found plenty to do, apart from
+his ecclesiastical duties, in repairing his various palaces,
+and in housing the predecessors of his Winchester
+scholars in a house on St. Giles's Hill, until such time
+as he could give them fitting buildings and a chapel
+of their own. But before Wykeham could see his
+schemes take an architectural form, he was to suffer
+the loss of royal favour owing to the death of the
+Black Prince and the rise into power of his enemy,
+John of Gaunt. The bishop was charged with the
+misappropriation of a small sum of money, and, judgment
+being given against him, the temporalities of
+the see of Winchester were seized, and he was forbidden
+to come within twenty miles of the Court.
+He retired to Waverley Abbey, of which some picturesque
+ruins remain, near Farnham; and although on
+the King's jubilee pardon was granted to all offenders,
+a special exception was made in the case of "Sire
+William de Wykeham".</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="image004.jpg" id="image004.jpg"></a><img src="images/image004.jpg" width='408' height='600' alt="WYKEHAM'S CHANTRY" /></p>
+
+<h4>WYKEHAM'S CHANTRY</h4>
+
+<p>This was more than the heads of the Church
+could stand, especially as the original charge was
+an unjust one; so at the ensuing meeting of Convocation,
+Courtenay, then Bishop of London, declared
+boldly that unless their favourite bishop was reinstated
+in office, no money would be forthcoming from
+the clergy. In less than a month the pressing need
+of funds caused the King to send a messenger to
+Waverley and beg Wykeham to return to his house
+at Southwark. This was the first step, which, however,
+did not mean an immediate return to the temporalities,
+as these had been settled on the youthful
+heir apparent, Richard; but the people took up Wykeham's
+cause, and on June 18, 1377, in the presence
+of the little Richard, his uncle, and the King's council,
+Wykeham promised to fit out three galleys for sea,
+in return for the temporalities of Winchester. Two
+days later Edward III died, forsaken by his mistress,
+Alice Perrers, and estranged from the one man who
+had served him so long and so faithfully.</p>
+
+<p>The architectural genius of Wykeham as exhibited
+at St. Mary's College and the cathedral at Winchester,
+and at New College, Oxford, originally founded as "St.
+Maries' College of Winchester at Oxenford", marks
+a very decided epoch in the development of English
+architecture. His works, in an architectural style
+found nowhere but in England, are the outcome of
+a mind free from triviality, and full of common sense.
+His buildings are admirably suited to their purpose,
+and at first sight they appear to be so simple in design
+that it has been suggested that Wykeham cared
+more for the constructive than the artistic side of
+building. It is true that he considered sound construction
+and good proportions of greater importance
+than a profusion of detail, yet such ornament as is
+found in his work is highly effective and most carefully
+studied. To this bishop-architect we undoubtedly
+owe much of the dignity and simplicity which mark
+the Early Perpendicular buildings, qualities which make
+the style such a contrast to the exuberance of that
+which immediately preceded it, or the over-elaboration
+of the Tudor buildings that followed it.</p>
+
+<p>With few exceptions, practically the whole of
+Wykeham's work, both here and at Oxford, remains
+much as he left it; so that, good bishop, wise administrator,
+generous founder, and pioneer educationist
+though he was, it is mainly as a munificent builder
+and architectural genius that his fame has lived in
+the past, and will continue to live in the future.</p>
+
+<p>Here for the moment we must leave the great
+prelate of Winchester and begin our perambulation
+of the city that received him as a youth, welcomed
+him as a bishop, mourned him when dead, and that
+still bears on the long nave of its cathedral, and on
+its famous college, the impress of his manly, robust,
+and essentially English mind.</p>
+
+<p>By way of a footpath leading from the London
+and South-Western Railway station, the upper part
+of the famous High Street can be reached, although
+the thoroughfare now possesses but few features
+of interest until we arrive at the old West Gate, a
+reminder, if such were needed, that Winchester was
+a heavily fortified and strongly walled city. On the
+right is Castle Hill, the site of the ancient castle
+wherein Stigand, Archbishop of Canterbury, was imprisoned
+and Matilda besieged, and from whose courtyard
+William Rufus set out on the hunting expedition
+to the New Forest which was attended by such
+fatal consequences. All that now remains of this
+stronghold is the fine old hall built by Henry III.</p>
+
+<p>For some time this apartment was used as the
+County Hall, and here Judge Jeffreys opened his
+Bloody Assize before proceeding to Dorchester, Exeter,
+and Taunton. Alice Lisle was the widow of John
+Lisle, who had been Master of St. Cross Hospital,
+and member for Winchester in the Long Parliament.
+Although the men of Hampshire had taken no part
+in Monmouth's Rebellion, many of the fugitives had
+fled thither, and two of them, John Hickes, a Non-conformist
+divine, and Richard Nelthorpe, a lawyer,
+found refuge in the house of Alice Lisle, where they
+were eventually discovered. At her trial, Alice Lisle
+stated briefly that, although she knew Hickes to be
+in trouble, she was quite ignorant of the fact that
+he had participated in the rebellion. When the jury
+said they doubted if the charge had been made out,
+Jeffreys was furious, and after another long consultation
+they returned a verdict of "Guilty". The
+next morning the judge pronounced sentence, and
+ordered the prisoner to be <i>burned alive</i> that same
+afternoon. When remonstrances had poured in from
+all quarters, Jeffreys consented to the execution being
+postponed for five days; and the sentence was eventually
+commuted from burning to hanging. So the first
+victim of Monmouth's ill-fated rebellion was hanged
+on a scaffold in the market-place of Winchester.</p>
+
+<p>A striking object hanging at one end of the hall
+is the top of the reputed Round Table of King Arthur,
+painted in radiating white and green sections, with
+a portrait of the famous king inset, crowned and
+robed, and the Tudor rose in the centre, while around
+the circumference are the names of the knights in
+old black-letter characters. Doubtful though it is
+that the table is the actual one that figures in the
+Arthurian legends, yet it is certainly of great antiquity,
+and has been frequently referred to by more than
+one writer of mediaeval days. It has been conjectured
+that it may be nothing more than the wheel of fortune
+which Henry III commanded to be made for the castle.
+In later years another palace was started here by
+Charles II, the only portion that was completed being
+now used as barracks.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the West Gate is an obelisk, set up in
+commemoration of a visitation of the Plague in 1669,
+when the country people brought their produce and
+left it outside the gate to be taken in by the city
+dwellers, who deposited the money for the goods in
+bowls of vinegar, whence it was abstracted by pincers,
+to avoid infection. The stone on which the exchanges
+were made is incorporated in the base of the obelisk.</p>
+
+<p>The West Gate is the only one that remains of the
+principal entrances to the city, as King's Gate, with the
+little church of St. Swithun perched on top, was of
+secondary importance. This West Gate escaped the
+fate that has overtaken so many of our old city gates
+owing to its having been used for some time as a smoking
+room for the adjacent hotel. This apartment above
+the crown of the gateway arch is, like that over the
+West Gate of Canterbury, used for the purposes of
+a museum, wherein are deposited such interesting
+relics as the Winchester bushel, cloth measures, and
+ancient instruments of punishment. At one time the
+room was used as a prison, and the walls are covered
+with names or marks made by those who were incarcerated
+here.</p>
+
+<p>The gate is of fourteenth-century date, the two
+panels with armorial bearings seen on the western
+side of the archway being later insertions. Through
+the gateway a delightful view is obtained of the picturesque
+High Street, with many a high-pitched gable
+rising above the masses of irregular architecture;
+while an ancient clock on a wooden bracket juts
+out from the old Queen Anne Guildhall, which has
+a statue of Her Majesty over the entrance, the Curfew
+Tower rising on one side of the building. A new
+Guildhall of greater architectural pretensions has been
+erected in the Broadway, the original one being now
+used as a shop.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="image005.jpg" id="image005.jpg"></a><img src="images/image005.jpg" width='410' height='600' alt="THE BUTTER CROSS" /></p>
+
+<h4>THE BUTTER CROSS</h4>
+
+<p>From the West Gate the High Street slopes down
+to the Itchen. On the right stands the old Butter
+Cross, in rather a cramped position. Two reasons
+have been given for its name: one, that during Lent,
+those wishing to eat butter could do so by consuming
+it by the cross; the other, and more probable, explanation
+is that here came farmers wishing to dispose
+of their butter, which they exposed for sale on
+the steps of the cross. The structure is of fifteenth-century
+date, but has been much restored, the only
+original figure on it being that of St. Amphibalus. Just
+beside the cross is the interesting little opening that
+leads into the Close, and in which is the entrance
+to St. Lawrence Church, of which nothing is visible
+from this point but the doorway, and the tower rising
+above the surrounding houses. This church has been
+said to be the Mother Church of the diocese of Winchester,
+an idea that may have owed its origin to
+the fact that before proceeding to the Cathedral to
+be enthroned the bishops designate enter this ancient
+church to robe and "ring themselves in". Only the
+other day, May 6, 1911, Dr. Talbot followed this old
+custom, and the people listened eagerly for the number
+of rings, as these are supposed to denote the number
+of years the bishop will be at the head of the diocese.
+It may be of interest to chronicle that Dr. Talbot rang
+nine times.</p>
+
+<p>Near the church at one time was an open space
+called the Square, where were situated the Pillory and
+Whipping Post. The palace of William I is said to
+have occupied this site, and St. Lawrence's Church
+may possibly have been the private chapel of the
+royal residence. A fragment of Norman masonry
+gives a certain amount of probability to the supposition,
+while at the beginning of last century some
+workmen excavating in Market Street came across
+the foundations of an ancient tower, of great thickness
+and strength. The present arched and narrow entrance
+from High Street leads to the fine avenue of
+limes that forms the principal approach to the west
+front of the Cathedral, begun by Edington <i>circa</i> 1360,
+the severe simplicity of which has been much criticized,
+Ruskin assailing it furiously in the <i>Stones of Venice</i>.
+On the apex of the gable is a canopied niche containing
+a statue of Wykeham.</p>
+
+<p>The present edifice is thought to stand approximately
+on the site of the earlier Saxon church
+restored by Ethelwold in 980, in which Queen
+Emma underwent the "fiery ordeal" by walking
+blindfold and barefooted over nine red-hot plough-shares,
+thus proving her innocence of the charges
+brought against her, and furnishing her accusers with
+an example of what female chastity is able to accomplish.
+The main portion of the structure as seen
+to-day was begun by Bishop Walkelin about 1079,
+and completed some fourteen years later. It is the
+longest of English churches, measuring externally
+566 feet, and internally 562&frac12; feet, being a few
+feet longer than St. Alban's, which has the same
+plan; although we must remember that when the
+nave of Winchester terminated at the west in two
+large towers the whole mass was 40 feet longer than
+at present.</p>
+
+<p>The vista of the whole block of masonry, with its
+stumpy tower and heavily buttressed walls, conveys
+the idea of immense strength rather than of gracefulness;
+while its situation at the bottom of a hill,
+and near the bank of the river, is one of great charm.</p>
+
+<p>It is when the nave is entered that the full beauty
+and vast proportions of the Norman church are revealed,
+for this is in essence a Norman building encased
+with Perpendicular details and additions. As
+Wykeham's alterations were merely added to the
+original piers, the stateliness of the whole remains.
+Full credit, of course, must be given to Wykeham
+for the wonderful skill he showed in this work of
+transformation, and in removing the heavy triforium,
+although the grandeur of the nave as a whole is due
+to the combined work of Walkelin and Wykeham.
+This alteration of styles in the nave was begun
+by Edington, continued by Wykeham, and completed
+by his successors in the see&mdash;Cardinal Beaufort and
+Bishop Waynflete&mdash;who built the stone vaulting of the
+roof. The tower at the intersection of the transepts
+is the second of its kind, the first, built by Walkelin,
+having fallen in 1107, owing, says tradition, to the
+wicked Red King having been buried beneath it. Of
+its rebuilding there are no records.</p>
+
+<p>So many detailed architectural histories of the
+building have appeared that its principal features
+must be familiar to every lover of our national architecture.
+There are, however, one or two features
+about this cathedral that should be noted. Apart
+from its great length, which is greater than any
+church in the world, with the exception of St. Peter's
+at Rome, it is remarkable for its parclose screens, with
+the mortuary chests upon them; and for the beauty and
+number of its chantries, in which it is richer than any
+other English cathedral. They are said to have been
+saved from destruction during the Civil War by the
+Parliamentary colonel, Fiennes, an old Wykehamist;
+and certain historians describe the dramatic incident of
+the colonel standing with drawn sword to protect the
+chantry of the founder of his Alma Mater from the
+iconoclastic tendencies of his troopers. The chantries
+number seven, and were built as chapels by bishops for
+their last resting-places. Within these chantries are
+the tombs of Edington, Wykeham, Waynflete, Beaufort,
+Gardiner, Langton, and Fox, all of whom were bishops
+of the diocese. Fox's chantry was carefully restored
+by Corpus Christi College, Oxford; and that of Waynflete
+by Magdalen College, as a mark of reverence and
+esteem for the memory of their respective founders.</p>
+
+<p>The first to be seen on entering the nave from
+the west is that of Wykeham, whose faith in the
+solidity of Norman building was so great that he
+did not hesitate to cut away more than a third of
+the two nave pillars between which it is placed.
+Within the chapel, said to have been built on the
+site of an altar to the Virgin, is the effigy of the bishop-builder,
+with flesh and robes coloured "proper", as the
+heralds say; and at his feet are the figures of his
+three favourite monks, to whom he left an endowment
+for the celebration of three masses daily in his chantry,
+while each was to receive one penny a day from the
+prior. The effigy lies on an altar tomb, in episcopal
+attire, the head-pillow supported by two angels. Five
+bays farther on is Edington's chantry, but without
+effigy, as also are those of Fox and Langton. Of
+the seven chantries those of Fox and Beaufort are
+usually considered the most beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>The proud Cardinal Beaufort, founder of the "Almshouse
+of Noble Poverty" at St. Cross, is represented
+by Shakespeare as dying in despair:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Lord Cardinal, if thou think'st on Heaven's bliss</div>
+<div>Hold up thy hand: make signal of thy hope.</div>
+<div>He dies, and makes no sign!"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Dean Kitchin writes: "One cannot look at his
+effigy, as it lies in his stately chantry, without noting
+the powerful and selfish characteristics of his face,
+and especially the nose, large, curved, and money-loving.
+The sums Beaufort had at his disposal were
+so large that he was the Rothschild of his day. More
+than once he lent his royal masters enough money
+to carry them through their expeditions."</p>
+
+<p>The mortuary chests are certainly among the most
+interesting things possessed by any English cathedral.
+They are supposed to contain the bones of Kings
+Eadulph, Kinegils, Kenulf, Egbert, Canute, Rufus,
+Edmund, Edred, Queen Emma, and Bishops Wina
+and Alwyn. They no doubt got much mixed up
+when removed from the crypt by Henry de Blois, and
+again when the chests were broken open by the
+Parliamentarians, so that a detailed identification has
+been made impossible. It is now generally acknowledged
+that the bones of Rufus are in one of these
+chests, and that the so-called Rufus tomb in the
+retro-choir is the burial place of some great ecclesiastic.
+Such at any rate is the opinion of Dean
+Kitchin, who has done so much to elucidate the past
+history of the city and its Cathedral.</p>
+
+<p>When one of these boxes was taken recently out
+of its enclosing chest and examined, it was found to
+have a roof something like a low gable, which was
+decorated with painting about a century later than
+the time of de Blois. On the outside appeared the
+words in Latin: "Here are together the bones of King
+Kinegils and of Ethelwolf". Four of the Italian
+chests that held the inner boxes were the gift of
+Bishop Fox. The other chests have revealed five
+complete sets of human bones, and among the remains
+in another were the bones of a female, possibly
+those of Queen Emma.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="image006.jpg" id="image006.jpg"></a><img src="images/image006.jpg" width='411' height='600' alt="ENTRANCE TO THE DEANERY" /></p>
+
+<h4>ENTRANCE TO THE DEANERY</h4>
+
+<p>The visitor will not fail to have pointed out to
+him by the well-informed vergers the innumerable
+features of interest, such as the Lady Chapel, the
+retro-choir, the Holy Hole where the relics were
+kept, the black oak stalls of the choir, the fine pulpit
+given by Prior Silkstede, and the magnificent screen
+begun by Beaufort and completed by Fox. The
+monuments, apart from those contained in the chantries,
+are many, and include one surmounted by a
+beautifully wrought cross-legged effigy, which has
+not yet been identified. There are memorials or
+tombs of James I and Charles I, by le Suer, who
+wrought the statue of the latter at Charing Cross;
+Dr. Warton, Professor of Poetry at Oxford, and headmaster
+of Winchester; Jane Austen; and William
+Unwin, the intimate friend of Cowper. A flat stone,
+with an inscription by his brother-in-law, Ken, marks
+the resting-place of Izaak Walton, "whose book",
+a modern writer tells us, "makes the reader forget
+for the time the cruelty of his sport".</p>
+
+<p>The curiously carved font, whereon are depicted
+symbolical figures and incidents from the legendary
+life of St. Nicholas of Myra, bears much similarity to
+three others found in Hampshire&mdash;at St. Michaels',
+Southampton; East Meon; and St. Mary Bourne.
+They are all of the same era, and possibly the work
+of the same hand, being among the most interesting
+of our Norman fonts. The material of which they
+are made has never been settled, some authorities
+defining it as Tournai marble, others as basalt, and
+yet others as nothing more than slate.</p>
+
+<p>The roll of bishops is a remarkable one, and the
+see has had eleven who were also Lord Chancellors,
+the last being Wolsey in 1529.</p>
+
+<p>As we have seen, Winchester continued in favour
+with the reigning houses long after it had ceased to
+be a royal residence. Here Henry I was married to
+the Saxon Matilda, and here in the closing years of
+his life the aged Wykeham married Henry IV and
+Joan of Navarre; and here, too, came Philip of Spain
+and Henry VIII's sad daughter, Mary of England, to
+be wedded before the high altar, the chair on which
+the royal bride sat being still shown to visitors.</p>
+
+<p>For the architectural student the plan of the
+cathedral is not the least interesting feature of the
+building, for although it has an ambulatory which is
+semicircular internally, the plan is in other respects
+rather exceptional. It is what architects call a periapsidal
+plan, meaning that its eastern termination
+contains a processional aisle or ambulatory, designed
+mainly for the purpose of allowing a procession to
+pass round the high altar without entering the presbytery.
+In the crypt of Winchester Cathedral the
+plan of the early Norman church may be seen <i>sui
+generis</i>. A rather exceptional feature is that the
+eastern ambulatory is semicircular within but rectangular
+without, although the long chapel that projects
+from this ambulatory has an apsidal, not a rectangular,
+termination.</p>
+
+<p>To the receptive mind all our ancient cathedrals,
+and a few of our modern ones, possess a subtle atmosphere
+of their own, indescribable but plainly felt,
+both within and without their walls. In such an
+atmosphere we lose sight of the Winchester of to-day.
+It becomes ancient, ecclesiastical, historical,
+learned, and romantic. Here we return in imagination
+to the scenes of the Middle Ages, when love was
+attested by chivalrous deeds of arms done in honour
+of bright eyes, and poetry sounded its lyre in praise
+of him who had been most devoted to his Church,
+most faithful to his mistress, and most loyal to his
+king. As a whole, this Cathedral of Winchester is
+a vast building, simple almost to a fault, yet one that
+possesses a solemn repose unspeakably restful to mind
+and spirit&mdash;a sense of undisturbed harmony and refined
+yet massive simplicity. Towards eventide the shadows
+of the turrets and pinnacles creep, day by day, over
+the surrounding bands of greensward, their cool greys
+advancing inch by inch until they reach the spacious
+pavements, whereon they cast the symbols of our
+Christian faith in ruddy trefoil-headed slants of glory.</p>
+
+<p>Whatever else is omitted from the history of the
+Cathedral, mention must be made of the valiant efforts
+that have been and are still being made to preserve
+the stability of the structure. A few years ago the
+east end showed signs of subsidence, and ominous
+cracks appeared in the north transept, a part of the
+old Norman church. An examination of the fabric
+proved that herculean tasks were essential to save
+this portion of the edifice. It was agreed that only
+by extensive underpinning could the work be accomplished.
+It has been very costly, and funds are most
+urgently needed to complete the preservation, not
+only of the eastern end, but of the whole Cathedral.
+The cradle of woodwork erected to give temporary
+support to the eastern superstructure cost over a
+thousand pounds to fix, and up to date many thousands
+of pounds have been spent on the work. It
+was not until these temporary supports had been
+fixed and excavations begun that the magnitude of
+the task was fully revealed. The Cathedral was found
+to have been built on an old "water-bed" having a
+foundation of peat, the distance between the ground
+level and the firm gravel beneath the peat being 27
+feet. The only hope of saving the east end was to
+remove the peat and fill in the spaces with concrete
+and cement. With the removal of the peat, however,
+there was so great an influx of water that pumping
+was of no avail. Two of the best divers in the kingdom
+were then procured, and by working on their backs
+and sides in 15 feet of muddy water they succeeded
+in laying the concrete bed. Owing to the same cause,
+the remainder of the structure will, sooner or later,
+have to be treated in the same way, and the thorough
+restoration of the west front cannot be long postponed.
+The difficulty of the work is realized when we consider
+that it takes a whole month to underpin 4 feet of
+foundation. Owing to the cramped space and the
+darkness three weeks are spent in excavation; after
+which the divers require a week to place the concrete
+and cement in position. That so national a heritage
+will be saved, for the delight of our own and the instruction
+of future generations, must be the wish of
+all true lovers of the great building achievements of
+the past.</p>
+
+<p>The cathedral precincts are in excellent keeping
+with the repose and beauty of the building to which
+they form the court, and are full of historical memories.
+The palace of the Conqueror reached from Great
+Minster Street to Market Street, from High Street
+to the Square; and eastwards rose the "New Minster",
+and the Nuns' Abbey of St. Mary.</p>
+
+<p>To-day the greater part of the Close, with the
+Deanery and the various canonical residences, lies
+on the south side. Only a few slight fragments
+remain of the cloisters, the destruction of which
+could not have been considered possible by Wykeham.
+They were taken down by Bishop Horne in
+the reign of Elizabeth. The short row of Norman
+arches seen from the Close belonged to the old Chapter
+House, which is said to have been pulled down for the
+sake of its lead. The Deanery was the ancient house
+of the Priors, of which it contains many interesting
+memorials. Here are the Great Hall, now subdivided,
+and the Hospitium, used as stables. The Deanery
+entrance has three pointed arches, beneath which, as
+we have stated, the poor pilgrims and other wayfarers
+received food and alms. On his numerous visits to
+Winchester, Charles II used to lodge at the Deanery,
+until Prebendary Ken (afterwards Bishop of Bath and
+Wells) refused to allow Nell Gwynne to enter the
+house, with the result that she had to content herself
+with an inferior residence outside the precincts.</p>
+
+<p>Of Wykeham's "College of St. Marie", or New
+College, Oxford, this is not the place to speak, especially
+as it has already been dealt with in the
+"Oxford" volume of this "Beautiful England" series.
+His other "College of St. Mary", or, as it is commonly
+known, Winchester College, has a history extending
+far beyond that of most of our great public schools;
+and Winchester was celebrated for its educational
+institutions in Saxon days.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="image007.jpg" id="image007.jpg"></a><img src="images/image007.jpg" width='389' height='600' alt="WINCHESTER COLLEGE: THE OUTER GATEWAY FROM ARCADIA" /></p>
+
+<h4>WINCHESTER COLLEGE: THE OUTER GATEWAY FROM "ARCADIA"</h4>
+
+<p>Wykeham's idea in founding these two colleges
+was one for which he had no precedent before him,
+so that his design was to a large extent in the nature
+of an experiment. His idea, of course, was to enable
+those who proceeded from the Winchester to the
+Oxford College to receive a systematic and continuous
+education. Where Wykeham led, others were
+not long in following. Two of his successors in the
+see of Winchester, Waynflete and Fox, gave to Oxford
+the beautiful colleges of Magdalen and Corpus
+Christi respectively. Archbishop Chichele, one of
+Wykeham's first scholars, built St. Bernard's College,
+now St. John Baptist's, which he gave to the Cistercians
+before its completion; and later in life he
+founded the College of All Souls, while in his native
+village of Higham Ferrers, Northants, he built and
+endowed a school, bede-house, and church, which are
+among some of the loveliest pieces of building we
+possess. Henry VI made himself intimately acquainted
+with the works of Wykeham, and copied
+them for his two colleges of Eton, and King's College,
+Cambridge. Until Wykeham's time, schools had been
+under or connected with monastic houses; now they
+were distinct foundations, with priests still as masters,
+but priests secular and not religious. Wykeham was,
+indeed, the pioneer of the public-school system, of
+which, with all its shortcomings, England is so justly
+proud.</p>
+
+<p>Each of the bishop's colleges took about six years
+in building, and that at Oxford was the first to be
+finished. It must have been a proud day for Winchester
+when, on March 28, 1393, the "seventy faithful
+boys", headed by their master, came in procession
+from St. Giles's Hill, where they had been temporarily
+housed, and, all chanting psalms, entered into possession
+of their fair college.</p>
+
+<p>The buildings have been but little altered since
+their founder's day, and extend now, as then, on the
+south side of the Close, and along the bank of the
+Itchen. They consist mainly of two quadrangles, in
+the first of which, entered from College Street by
+a gateway, are the Warden's house and other offices.
+Here is the brewhouse, quite unaltered; but the
+Warden's house has absorbed the old bakehouse,
+slaughterhouse, and butcher's room. Over the second
+archway are figures of the Virgin, with Gabriel on her
+right, and Wykeham kneeling on her left. Here was
+a room for the Warden, from which he could see all
+who entered or left the college; and here also is the
+site of the old penthouse under which the scholars
+used to perform their ablutions, and which they called
+"Moab". The old Society comprised the Warden,
+ten Fellows, three Chaplains, sixteen Queristers, and
+seventy scholars. The boys, the chaplains, and the
+choristers lived within the inner quadrangle, the
+northern side of which is formed by the chapel and
+the refectory. The original chapel, with the exception
+of the beautiful fan-groining of its roof, was much defaced
+in the seventeenth century, but was restored in
+the nineteenth, when a new reredos was added. The
+refectory remains practically untouched, and has a roof
+enriched with some beautiful carved woodwork, the
+painted heads of kings and bishops, and some great
+mullioned windows. Over the buttery is the audit-room,
+hung with ancient and rare tapestries, and
+containing a large chest known as Wykeham's money
+box. The original schoolroom was in the basement,
+and has long been put to other uses. The chantry,
+the beautiful cloisters, and the chapel tower were all
+built after the founder's death, but he provided a
+wooden bell tower, which stood away from the chapel,
+so that the main building should not be injured by
+the vibration of the bells. The remaining portions
+are mostly modern, and the foundation has naturally
+been much enlarged since Wykeham's day, the last
+addition being the gateway in Kingsgate Street,
+erected as a memorial to the many Wykehamists
+who fell in the South African War.</p>
+
+<p>On the wall of a passage adjoining the kitchen is
+a singular painting, supposed to be emblematical of a
+"trusty servant", compounded of a man, a hog, a deer,
+and an ass. The explanatory words beneath it are
+attributed to Dr. Christopher Jonson, headmaster from
+1560 to 1571.</p>
+
+<p>With the completion of Winchester College, Wykeham
+turned his attention to the Cathedral, although he
+was then seventy years of age. He lived to see his munificence
+bearing good fruit, and his foundations flourishing
+in reputation and usefulness; so that when he
+lay down to die, on September 27, 1404, in his palace
+of Bishops' Waltham, he could look back to a long life
+spent in the service of his Maker. The funeral procession
+moved slowly along the ten miles that separated
+palace from Cathedral through crowds of people
+mourning his loss. At the Cathedral door the prior
+met the procession, and the great bishop-builder was
+laid to rest in the beautiful chantry he had himself
+prepared. Four days before his death he made and
+signed his will, in which he bestowed gifts and legacies
+with the liberality that was so marked a characteristic
+of his life. That crowds of poor would attend his
+obsequies he was probably aware, for to each poor
+person seeking a bounty he bequeathed fourpence,
+"for the love of God and his soul's health". To the
+Cathedral, on which he had expended so much of his
+genius, he left money for its completion; and bequeathed
+to it many precious things, including a
+cross of gold in which was a piece of the "Tree
+of the Lord". Henry IV was forgiven a debt of five
+hundred pounds, and was to have a pair of silver-gilt
+basins, ornamented with double roses, which were
+probably given to Wykeham by Edward III, as a
+special mark of his favour. So we take leave of this
+master builder and munificent bishop, whose motto
+"Manners makyth man" is known the world over.
+The inscription on his tomb tells us of his works,
+but Wykeham needs no inscription so long as the
+stones of the Cathedral hold together, and his two
+fair colleges raise their buttressed walls beside the
+waters of the Isis and the Itchen.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="image008.jpg" id="image008.jpg"></a><img src="images/image008.jpg" width='401' height='600' alt="THE CLOISTERS, WINCHESTER COLLEGE" /></p>
+
+<h4>THE CLOISTERS, WINCHESTER COLLEGE</h4>
+
+<p>Returning to the Butter Cross, the Piazza adjoining
+reminds one of the Butter Walk at Dartmouth,
+and the famous "Rows" of Chester. It was used
+for many years as a market where the country folk
+brought their produce, being then known as the
+"Penthouse". The mints established on the site by
+Athelstan were noted for the excellence of the coinage
+made there. In the Westgate Museum an old leaden
+box is shown which was discovered at Beauworth
+by a shepherd. It was found to contain some six
+thousand silver pennies of the coinage of William I
+and Rufus. In addition to its famous mints Winchester
+was the chief trading centre of this part of
+England during mediaeval days. A great woollen
+trade was carried on with Flanders when the city
+became one of the "staple" towns, still commemorated
+by "Staple Gardens", a narrow lane leading
+out of the north side of High Street, where the great
+warehouse for the storage of wool once stood. A
+little below the Queen Anne Guildhall, but on the
+opposite side of the street, is St. John's Hospital;
+while another old lane leading off from the main
+thoroughfare is Royal Oak Passage, at the junction
+of which with the street is the ancient house known
+as God-begot House, with some good timberwork
+and a fine gable. "Jewry" Street recalls to our
+memory the early settlement of the Jews in Winchester,
+for the citizens seem to have been more
+kindly disposed towards this persecuted race than
+those of the majority of English cities at an early
+period in their history. Richard of Devizes, in 1189,
+called Winchester the "Jerusalem of the Jews", and,
+writing of the massacre and plunder of the Jews in
+London and other cities, said: "Winchester alone,
+the people being prudent and circumspect and the
+city always acting mildly, spared its vermin". The
+Jews settled in Winchester between the years 1090
+and 1290, landing at Southampton and making their
+way up the Itchen until they came in sight of the
+old capital of the kingdom. Crossing the river, they
+entered the city by the East Gate, and finally chose
+as their abiding-place a site near the north walls,
+in a thoroughfare then known as "Scowrtenstrete",
+Shoemakers' Row. The community soon could boast
+of a synagogue, and were the possessors of several
+schools. At the bottom of the High Street are the
+Abbey Gardens, so called from their being on the site
+of an abbey founded by Ealhswith, King Alfred's
+queen, in which to spend the years of her widowhood.
+The general plan of the gardens has probably
+been but little altered since the days when the nuns
+paced their shady paths in pious meditation. An
+ancient manuscript of prayers, used by the abbess in
+the ninth century, is preserved in the British Museum.
+Ealhswith's son, Edward the Elder, levied a toll from
+all merchandise passing under the City Bridge by
+water, and beneath the East Gate by land, for the
+better support of the abbey founded by his mother.
+Before the bridge stood the East Gate, and crossing
+we are in that part of the city known as the
+"Soke". In the "Liberty of the Soke" the bishop of
+the diocese had his court, presided over by the bailiff
+as his deputy. Thus the bishop's jurisdiction was
+entirely independent of that of the civic authorities.
+Wolvesey was his palace, and within its walls, now
+ivy-clad and crumbling to decay, he held his court,
+with three tithing men and a constable to assist him.
+Here also was his exchequer, and here he imprisoned
+those who offended against his laws. All that now
+remains of the once celebrated episcopal palace of
+Wolvesey&mdash;said, with no authority, to have been so
+named from the tribute of wolves' heads levied upon
+the Welsh by King Edgar&mdash;are a few ruined walls,
+of sufficient extent to give one an idea of the strength
+of the castle in its original state. At Wolvesey King
+Alfred brought together the scholars who were to aid
+him in writing the "Chronicles of the Time"; and
+on the outer walls he hung the bodies of Danish
+pirates as a warning to those who made periodical
+raids up the valley of the Itchen.</p>
+
+<p>In the hands of Bishop de Blois the palace became
+of great importance, and withstood a siege by David,
+King of Scotland, and Robert, Earl of Gloucester.
+De Blois was one of those who assisted at the coronation
+of Henry II, and pulled down the tower when
+the bishop was absent from the diocese without the
+royal permission, on a visit to Clugny. Although shorn
+of much of its former strength, the palace remained a
+fortress until the fortifications of Winchester were
+reduced to a heap of ruins by Cromwell.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="image009.jpg" id="image009.jpg"></a><img src="images/image009.jpg" width='400' height='600' alt="RUINS OF WOLVESEY CASTLE" /></p>
+
+<h4>RUINS OF WOLVESEY CASTLE</h4>
+
+<p>Beyond the City Bridge rises St. Giles's Hill, named
+after Giles, one of those numerous hermit saints who
+played so prominent a part in establishing the Christian
+faith in these islands. The hill is deeply grooved by a
+railway cutting; on it was held for many centuries
+a kind of open market or annual fair, which attracted
+the wealthy merchants of France, Flanders, and Italy.
+The fair generally lasted a fortnight, during which
+time all other local business was suspended, the shops
+closed, and the mayor handed over the keys of the
+city to the bishop, who claimed large fees from the
+stall holders. Thirty marks were paid for repairs
+needed at the Church of St. Swithun, and similar
+sums were demanded by the abbeys. Bishop Walkelin
+was granted the tolls of the fair for three days by
+William Rufus, his kinsman; but in the time of
+Henry III the privilege was extended to sixteen
+days. The stalls were arranged in long rows, and
+named according to the goods sold thereon, or after
+the nationality of the vendors. Thus one row would
+be named the Street of Caen, another that of Limoges,
+while the Drapery and Spicery stalls were held by the
+monks of St. Swithun, who proved themselves energetic
+traders at the great annual fair, which lasted
+until modern times, and was removed in due course
+from St. Giles's Hill into the city. Dean Kitchin
+writes: "As the city grew stronger and the fair
+weaker, it slid down St. Giles's Hill and entered
+the town, where its noisy ghost still holds revel once
+a year".</p>
+
+<p>At the present day St. Giles's Hill is a pleasant spot
+from which to view the venerable city. Down the
+valley, by the Itchen, rises the Hospital and Church
+of St. Cross, a picturesque and peaceful group of
+buildings viewed from any position, but particularly
+so taken in conjunction with the ancient city and the
+fertile valley threaded by numberless small streams.
+On the left side of the valley is St. Catherine's Hill,
+a bold and outstanding spur crowned with a small
+belt of trees surrounded by a circular earthwork. At
+one time a chapel dedicated to St. Catherine capped
+the hill, and slight traces of the building may yet
+be seen. Here is the interesting maze, said to have
+been made by a Winchester College boy who was
+obliged to remain behind during the holidays, but
+probably of a different origin, some antiquaries holding
+the opinion that it is of great antiquity, and in
+some way connected with ecclesiastical penance.</p>
+
+<p>Looking citywards, one can see the towers of many
+churches rising above the gables and chimneys of the
+houses. Near at hand are St. Peter's, Cheeshill, and St.
+John's, the former an interesting little building with
+a mixture of styles, among which the Norman and
+Early English predominate, the windows being of a
+later period. The bell turret is situated at the south-east
+corner of the building, which, as a whole, gives a
+singular impression, due to the fact that it is nearly as
+broad as it is long. St. John's Church is the most interesting
+in the city, containing as it does a fine rood
+screen, with the rood-loft stairs still existing in a
+turret of fifteenth-century date. Other features of
+interest are the fourteenth-century Decorated screens
+that enclose the chancel on each side, and an arched
+recess at the east end of the north wall, containing
+an altar-tomb with quatrefoil panels supporting shields
+on which are the symbols of the Passion. The tomb
+itself bears neither inscription nor date.</p>
+
+<p>Here also are a set of carved bench ends, a Perpendicular
+pulpit, and an octagonal font.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately, most of the other churches of Winchester
+have been either rebuilt or so altered as to
+retain very little of their original architecture. The
+Church of St. Maurice, rebuilt in 1841, has saved a
+Norman doorway, fragments of a fine Decorated screen
+which now serve for altar rails, and an ancient chest.</p>
+
+<p>Like most of our cathedral cities, Winchester is
+well supplied with charitable institutions, although
+the best known of them all, the famous Hospital of
+St. Cross, is situated a mile away from the city proper.
+The Hospital of St. John, within Winchester, is one
+of the oldest foundations of the kind in the country,
+and a portion of the vaulted kitchen remaining in the
+building may not unreasonably be supposed to have
+formed part of the almshouse thought to have been
+founded on the spot in A.D. 935 by St. Brinstan. The
+chapel connected with the charity dates from the time
+of the third Henry, and contains a piece of fourteenth-century
+carving depicting the nimbed head of the
+Saviour, which is now built into a wall. Considerable
+doubt exists as to the original founder and early
+re-founders of this hospital, and little is known concerning
+it until the time of Edward II, when John
+Devenish re-founded it. At that period it seems to
+have been for the "sole relief of sick and lame soldiers,
+poor pilgrims, and necessitated wayfaring men, to have
+their lodging and diet there for one night, or longer,
+as their inability to travel may require". Many influential
+citizens left money or property to this charity.
+In 1400 Mark le Faire, Mayor of Winchester, bequeathed
+to it several houses, including the "great
+inn called the George", and the "house under the
+penthouse where Mr. Hodgson died". Richard Devenish,
+in the time of Henry VI, left a sum of money
+to provide for a more frequent performance of divine
+service in the chapel; but in the reign of Henry VIII
+these and other funds were confiscated, although the
+building itself was subsequently restored to the Corporation.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="image010.jpg" id="image010.jpg"></a><img src="images/image010.jpg" width='600' height='400' alt="BEAUFORT TOWER AND AMBULATORY, ST. CROSS" /></p>
+
+<h4>BEAUFORT TOWER AND AMBULATORY, ST. CROSS</h4>
+
+<p>After the Reformation, Ralph Lambe re-founded
+the charity for six poor and needy persons, who were
+to have six separate homes or chambers within the
+hospital, each furnished with locks and keys. Each
+person was to receive ten shillings quarterly, with a
+gown value ten shillings, and ten shillings' worth of
+coal yearly. On the election of a new mayor each
+was to receive two shillings, and any funds remaining
+were to be divided among the inmates at the discretion
+of the mayor and aldermen of the city. This institution
+is still a flourishing one, and the original hall,
+standing to the west of the chapel, is let as a public
+dining-hall.</p>
+
+<p>Another old charity was that of St. Mary Magdalene,
+founded for lepers, in 1173-88, by Bishop
+Toclyve, the inmates being known locally as "the
+infirm people upon the hill", now Maun Hill. In early
+times lepers were required to give up the whole of
+their personal goods, and one of the questions asked
+by the official visitor to the Hospital of St. Mary
+Magdalene was whether the goods of the deceased
+inmates went to the works of the church after the
+settlement of debts. The funds of this foundation were
+much tampered with at various times, and it lost some
+of its property at the Reformation. One of its benefactors
+left to it four flitches of bacon yearly, this
+being an important article of diet. The original plan
+of the hospital was quadrangular: on two sides were
+the inmates' rooms and the chapel, the remaining sides
+being occupied by the Master's House and the common
+hall. The buildings were much damaged in the time
+of Charles I by the troops stationed there, and again
+in the reign of Charles II by the Dutch prisoners confined
+within the hospital. The chapel was pulled down
+in 1788, and the materials were used for building purposes,
+when the fine Early Norman doorway was used
+in the Roman Catholic Church in St. Peter Street,
+where it may still be seen. This was the west doorway
+of the ancient hospital chapel. The site is now
+occupied by a hospital of another character, the isolation
+hospital, but the old "lepers' well" can still be
+seen. The charity survives to some extent in six
+cottages in Water Lane, built in 1788, wherein are
+housed four men and four women.</p>
+
+<p>In Symond's Street stands the picturesque "Christes
+Hospital", founded in 1586 by James Symonds. It is
+generally called the "Bluecoat" Hospital, from the distinctive
+dress worn by the inmates. A scholastic institution
+was attached to this charity for the education
+of four poor boys, chosen by the mayor and corporation,
+who also elected their teacher. The latter was
+not to be, in the terms of the founder, either a "Scotchman,
+an Irishman, a Welshman, a foreigner, or a
+North-countryman", lest their pronunciation of the
+English language should suffer.</p>
+
+<p>From among the fertile meadows bordering the
+banks of the Itchen to the south of Winchester rises
+the stately grey pile of St. Cross, standing where it has
+stood for over seven and a half centuries, a witness
+alike to the munificence of its founders, de Blois and
+Beaufort, and to the skill of the mediaeval builders.</p>
+
+<p>A good road leads from the city to the pleasing
+suburb in which the hospital is situated, though a
+far pleasanter way is by one of the field paths
+through the meadows.</p>
+
+<p>Henry de Blois became bishop when only twenty-eight
+years old, and in 1136 he founded the hospital
+for the entire support of "thirteen poor men, feeble
+and so reduced in strength that they can hardly or
+with difficulty support themselves without another's
+aid"; and they were to be supplied with "garments
+and beds suitable to their infirmities, good wheate
+bread daily of the weight of 5 marks, and three
+dishes at dinner and one at supper, suitable to the
+day, and drink of good stuff".</p>
+
+<p>Besides this, he provided for a hundred poor men
+to be supplied daily with dinner. Bishop Toclyve, de
+Blois's successor in the see, added to the charity the
+feeding of yet another hundred poor men daily; and
+it has been said, on somewhat slight evidence, that
+the poorer scholars of Winchester College dined without
+fee in the "Hundred Men's Hall".</p>
+
+<p>In 1137 the management of the institution was
+given over to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem;
+the cross still worn as a badge by the Brethren is a
+link with the ancient Order, being the cross <i>potent</i>, or
+Jerusalem cross, which was an insignia of the Kingdom
+of Jerusalem established by the Crusaders.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="image011.jpg" id="image011.jpg"></a><img src="images/image011.jpg" width='600' height='408' alt="ST. CROSS FROM THE MEADOWS" /></p>
+
+<h4>ST. CROSS FROM THE MEADOWS</h4>
+
+<p>Shortly after the death of de Blois a dispute arose
+between the Hospitallers and the bishop, but after the
+lapse of many years the management was restored to
+the latter, then Peter de Rupibus, who appointed Alan
+de Soke as Master. In 1446, Cardinal Beaufort, Wykeham's
+successor in the see, added a new foundation
+to St. Cross, to be called "The Almshouse of Noble
+Poverty". De Blois's charity had been intended to
+benefit the very needy; this of Beaufort's was designed
+for those who had fallen upon evil days after
+a life of ease and comfort. There were to be two
+priests, thirty-five brethren, and three sisters. The
+brethren were to be of gentle birth, or old servants
+of the founder. The scheme, however, was never
+completed, owing to the Wars of the Roses intervening,
+with the result that the estates with which
+he had intended to endow his almshouse were claimed
+by the Crown on the accession of the House of York.
+So it came about that in 1486 Bishop Waynflete was
+compelled to reduce the recipients of Beaufort's charity
+to one priest and two brethren. Fortunately, St. Cross
+was spared at the Reformation, and its endowments
+were not confiscated. The Vicar-General reported
+that there were "certain things requiring reformation",
+and that sturdy beggars were to be "driven away with
+staves"; also that the Lord's Prayer and the Creed
+were to be taught in English, and that relics and
+images were not to be brought out for the devotion
+of pilgrims. In 1632 Archbishop Laud caused a strict
+enquiry to be made, with the result that the Master,
+Dr. Lewis, reported that the fabric was in a state
+of great dilapidation. This Master lost his post
+through his loyalty to Church and King, and John
+Lisle, the regicide, became Master of the Hospital
+until Cromwell made him a peer, when his place was
+filled by John Cooke, the Solicitor-General who drew
+up the indictment against Charles I. Both these regicides
+met with misfortune, for Cooke was executed
+and Lisle assassinated, so that at the Restoration
+Dr. Lewis was restored to the mastership. Between
+the years 1848 and 1853, chancery suits, costing a large
+sum of money, resulted in an entirely new scheme
+being drawn up, under which the two charities were
+treated as separate foundations under one head. The
+differences of qualification between the two sets of
+Brethren are carefully laid down, and a portion of
+the income is used for the maintenance of fifty out-pensioners,
+the modern equivalent for the "Hundred
+Poor Men" of mediaeval days. The distinctive dresses
+of the Brethren are the same with regard to colour
+and cut as those worn in the time of Henry VI, those
+worn by the recipients of Beaufort's charity being of
+red cloth, with the badge, a cardinal's hat and tassels
+on a silver plate, worn on the left breast. The
+Brethren of the older institution, founded by de Blois,
+wear black gowns, with the silver cross <i>potent</i> pinned
+on the left breast. On the death of a Brother the
+cross is placed on a red velvet cushion and laid on
+his breast in the coffin; but before burial the cross is
+removed and fastened by the Master on the breast
+of the Brother elected in place of the deceased.</p>
+
+<p>The Hospital buildings consist of an outer courtyard
+and gateway, to the right of which are the
+kitchens, and on the left the old brewhouse and
+remains of some of the earlier buildings. Immediately
+facing us is the tower gateway, thoroughly
+restored, if not built originally, by Cardinal Beaufort,
+under the groined archway of which is the
+porter's lodge, where the "Wayfarers' Dole" is still
+distributed to all who apply at the hatchway, an
+interesting and almost sole survival of the mediaeval
+custom by which food and drink were offered
+to passers-by. The daily dole at the present day
+consists of two gallons of ale and two loaves of bread,
+divided into thirty-two portions. The apartment over
+the archway is the Founder's room, wherein are stored
+all the ancient documents relating to the foundation.
+Beaufort's arms appear in one of the spandrels above
+the gateway arch, the corresponding spandrel exhibiting
+the ancient regal arms of England. On this side
+of the entrance are three niches, one of which contains
+a figure of the cardinal in a kneeling posture. The
+vacant niche in the south front once held a statue
+of the Virgin, which fell to the ground more than a
+century ago, and nearly killed one of the Brethren in
+its descent.</p>
+
+<p>Passing through this noble gateway, which, somehow
+or other, does not look as old as we know it
+to be, we enter the great quadrangle, around which
+the various buildings are grouped. On the eastern
+side is the Infirmary, with the Ambulatory beneath it,
+a long, low cloister of sixteenth-century date, which
+extends along the whole side to the church. In one
+of the rooms above, a window opens into the church,
+where there may once have been a gallery to enable
+the infirm to hear the services. In 1763 Bishop
+Hoadley granted a license to the Master to pull
+down the cloister and use the materials for other
+purposes, but fortunately this was never done. On
+the opposite side of the quadrangle are the houses
+of the Brethren. Each dwelling consists of two
+rooms and a pantry, and has a garden attached.</p>
+
+<p>The Brethren's Hall stands on the north side of
+the quadrangle, and is a portion only of the old "Hundred
+Mennes Hall"; but enough is left to enable one
+to form a good idea of the original apartment, which
+measured 36 feet by 24 feet, until a portion was cut
+off to provide rooms for the Master, who is now
+lodged in a modern dwelling outside the gates. At
+the east end of the hall is a table where the officials
+sat, those for the Brethren being ranged along the
+sides. Some black-leather jacks, candlesticks, salt-cellars,
+pewter dishes, and a dinner bell, all dating
+from Beaufort's time, are still carefully preserved. At
+the opposite end of the hall is a screen with the
+minstrels' gallery above, whence, on high days and
+holidays, the Brethren were enlivened with music
+during their feastings. The chief festivals of the year
+were All Saints' Day, Christmas Day, New Year's Day,
+Twelfth Day, and Candlemas Day, on which occasions
+the Brethren had "extraordinary commons, and on the
+eve of which days they had a fire of charcoal in the
+Common Hall, and one jack of six quarts and one
+pint of beer extraordinary, to drink together by the
+fire. And on the said feast-day they had a fire at
+dinner, and another at supper in the said hall, and
+they had a sirloin of beef roasted, weighing forty-six
+pounds and a half, and three large mince-pies, and
+plum broth, and three joints of mutton for their supper,
+and six quarts and one pint of beer extraordinary at
+dinner, and six quarts and one pint of beer after
+dinner, by the fireside; six quarts and a pint at
+supper, and the like after supper." During Lent,
+each brother had eight shillings paid to him instead
+of commons, and on Palm Sunday the Brethren had
+a "green fish, of the value of three shillings and fourpence,
+and their pot of milk pottage with three pounds
+of rice boiled in it, and three pies with twenty-four
+herrings baked in them, and six quarts and one pint
+of beer extraordinary". On Good Fridays they had
+at dinner "in their pot of beer a cast of bread sliced,
+and three pounds of honey, boiled together, which they
+call honey sop". Beneath the hall is a fine vaulted
+cellar, of ample proportions, a worthy resting-place
+for the stock of St. Cross ale.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="image012.jpg" id="image012.jpg"></a><img src="images/image012.jpg" width='403' height='600' alt="THE BRETHREN'S HALL, ST. CROSS" /></p>
+
+<h4>THE BRETHREN'S HALL, ST. CROSS</h4>
+
+<p>But, interesting as are all these portions of the
+Hospital of St. Cross, it is the church which has the
+greatest attraction for architect and antiquary alike,
+for it contains good examples of every style. From
+Romanesque, through Norman and Early English, to
+Later Decorated, and to Transition Norman, the church
+is considered to be the best example in existence.
+This building, unfinished after nearly two hundred
+years, was roofed with lead, in place of the thatch
+which originally covered it, by William of Edyndon,
+the famous Wiltshireman who became Master of St.
+Cross in the fourteenth century, and who restored the
+fabric from the ruinous state in which he found it
+to a condition of beauty and strength. The windows
+of the clerestory were erected by him; he re-roofed the
+"Hundred Menne's Hall", and built a new chamber
+for the Master.</p>
+
+<p>On entering the church, through the north porch,
+one is struck by its loftiness and dignity, the vaulting
+throughout being of stone, while almost every ornamental
+feature of the Norman style can be seen. Proceeding
+to the western end of the church, and looking
+down the nave, the gradual development of its architecture
+can be well seen. The east end is Norman,
+the bay next the transepts Transition Norman, while
+the west end is Early English. The windows vary
+from Norman and Transition Norman to Early English,
+while those of the clerestory are Decorated. Mention
+must be made of the fine stone screens and tabernacle-work
+on either side of the altar, the altar slab of
+Purbeck marble, the triforium of intersecting arches
+in the choir, and the roof pendants. The western
+portion of the church was built during the mastership
+of Peter de Sancto Mario, and his fine canopied tomb
+is a striking object on the north side of the nave.
+Interesting, too, are the beautiful fourteenth-century
+tiles, some bearing the appropriate motto "Have
+Mynde"; and a very human note is struck in the
+mason's marks, still to be seen in various parts of
+the building, especially around the staircase door in
+the south transept. What these signs actually mean
+is unknown, but some authorities, notably Leader
+Scott in her work on <i>Cathedral Builders</i>, trace them
+through the Comacine Guild to the Roman <i>Collegia</i>.</p>
+
+<p>In the south-east corner of the south transept, on
+the exterior of the church, is a "triple-arch", which
+is thought to have been a doorway, and may have
+led to the "clerken-house", the original habitation of
+the seven choristers and their master, but which was
+pulled down by de Cloune, Master of St. Cross in the
+fourteenth century, who also allowed other parts of
+the fabric to fall into a state of great dilapidation.
+Here also, on the south side of the quadrangle, stood
+the original houses of Beaufort's foundation, which
+were not pulled down until 1789.</p>
+
+<p>No groups of buildings are in their way more
+charming or more impregnated with human associations
+than the famous episcopal foundation of St. Cross&mdash;an
+asylum of peace and rest, comfort and repose,
+to those who find shelter within its ancient walls, and
+a standing monument to the memory of the pious
+Henry de Blois and the princely churchman, Cardinal
+Beaufort. Winchester, like many an English city,
+would be shorn of much of its interest were this
+benevolent institution to be removed. The general
+air of peace and quietude, the grass-bordered walks,
+the stately church, all contribute to convey an appeal
+which is almost sacred in its simple eloquence. In
+the words of one who loved it well: "No one can
+pass its threshold without feeling himself landed, as
+it were, in another age. The ancient features of the
+building, the noble gateway, the quadrangle, the
+common refectory, the cloister, and, rising above all,
+the lofty and massive pile of the venerable church, the
+uniform garb and reverend mien of the aged brethren,
+the common provision for their declining years, the
+dole at the gatehouse, all lead back our thoughts to
+days when men gave their best to God's honour, and
+looked on what was done to His poor as done to Himself,
+and were as lavish of architectural beauty on what
+modern habits might deem a receptacle for beggars,
+as on the noblest of royal palaces. It seems a place
+where no worldly thought, no pride, or passion, or
+irreverence could enter; a spot where, as a modern
+writer has beautifully expressed it, a good man, might
+he make his choice, would wish to die."</p>
+
+<p>The country around this beautiful city by the Itchen
+is full of quiet charm, for life's ever-changing drama
+has but one and the same background. The actors
+come and go, but the stage remains much the same,
+and the devotions, the meditations, and the acts of men
+who lived centuries ago were set in the amphitheatre
+of the same green hills, and took place beside the
+same winding river as those we gaze upon to-day.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="image013.jpg" id="image013.jpg"></a><img src="images/image013.jpg" width='509' height='600' alt="PLAN OF WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL" /></p>
+
+<h4>PLAN OF WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL</h4>
+
+<p>Literature, too, has worthy names here in Izaak
+Walton and Jane Austen, both of whom lie buried in
+the cathedral; while the house at Winchester in which
+the author of <i>Persuasion</i> lived, for a brief period before
+her death, stands beyond the college gate. Above
+the door is a wooden tablet recording that here Jane
+Austen spent her last days, dying July 18, 1817. She
+had previously resided at Chawton for some eight
+years, but her house in the village is now a Workmen's
+Club. At the same time, Chawton is a pretty
+little spot, watered by land springs, known locally as
+"lavants"; while some few miles away is Farrington,
+where Gilbert White, of "Selborne" fame, was curate.</p>
+
+<p>Other literary associations of the Winchester country
+are those furnished by Hursley, where John Keble
+was vicar; by Otterbourne, the home for many years
+of Charlotte Yonge; and by Eversley, where Winchester's
+immortal son, Charles Kingsley, lies buried.</p>
+
+<p>Each succeeding visit to Winchester can only
+strengthen one's love for the city, and one's reverence
+for the Cathedral in its midst. Our pilgrimage of
+Winchester the beautiful is over.</p>
+
+<p class='center'>PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN</p>
+
+<p class='center'><i>At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland</i></p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Winchester, by Sidney Heath
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+</pre>
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+</body>
+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,1829 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Winchester, by Sidney Heath
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Winchester
+
+Author: Sidney Heath
+
+Release Date: April 25, 2005 [EBook #15706]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WINCHESTER ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Ted Garvin, Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net.
+
+
+
+
+
+WINCHESTER
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE CLOSE GATE]
+
+
+
+
+WINCHESTER
+
+
+Described by Sidney Heath
+
+Pictured by E.W. Haslehust
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED
+
+LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY
+
+1911
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Advertisement_
+
++Beautiful England+
+
+_Volumes Ready_
+
+OXFORD
+
+THE ENGLISH LAKES
+
+CANTERBURY
+
+SHAKESPEARE-LAND
+
+THE THAMES
+
+WINDSOR CASTLE
+
+CAMBRIDGE
+
+NORWICH AND THE BROADS
+
+THE HEART OF WESSEX
+
+THE PEAK DISTRICT
+
+THE CORNISH RIVIERA
+
+DICKENS-LAND
+
+WINCHESTER
+
+THE ISLE OF WIGHT
+
+CHESTER AND THE DEE
+
+YORK
+
+
+
+
+_Uniform with this Series_
+
++Beautiful Ireland+
+
+LEINSTER
+
+ULSTER
+
+MUNSTER
+
+CONNAUGHT
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+The Close Gate _Frontispiece_
+
+The City Bridge
+
+Winchester Cathedral from the Deanery Gardens
+
+Wykeham's Chantry
+
+The Butter Cross
+
+Entrance to the Deanery
+
+Winchester College: The Outer Gateway from "Arcadia"
+
+The Cloisters, Winchester College
+
+Ruins of Wolvesey Castle
+
+Beaufort Tower and Ambulatory, St. Cross
+
+St. Cross from the Meadows
+
+The Brethren's Hall, St. Cross
+
+Plan of Winchester Cathedral
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+WINCHESTER
+
+
+Few of our English cities are more strikingly situated than the once
+royal city of Winchester, which lies on the slopes and along the bed of
+a chalk valley watered by the River Itchen. The greater part of the
+present city is situated on the right bank of the river, while the best
+general view of it is justly considered to be that obtained by looking
+across the Vale of Chilcomb, from the road to Portsmouth. Of the Itchen
+valley, with its rich meadows and tranquil stream, William Cobbett was
+an enthusiastic admirer. "There are few spots in England", he exclaims,
+"more fertile, or more pleasant, none, I believe, more healthy. The
+fertility of this vale and of the surrounding country is best proved by
+the fact that, besides the town of Alresford, and that of Southampton,
+there are seventeen villages, each having its parish church, upon its
+borders. When we consider these things, we are not surprised that a spot
+situated about halfway down this vale should have been chosen for the
+building of a city, or that that city should have been for a great
+number of years the place of residence for the kings of England."
+
+To-day the beautiful river winds in and out of the ancient streets, and
+among the meadow lands, much as it did when Cobbett penned his _Rural
+Rides_, although many charming examples of domestic architecture, which
+then graced what was probably the most attractive High Street in
+England, have been demolished or restored beyond recognition. As it
+flows through the city proper, the river is divided up into a number of
+small streams abounding in trout; but after a brief course these
+rivulets unite just below the city, from whence the waterway is said to
+be navigable all the way to Southampton. The bridge at the foot of the
+High Street marks the former limit of the navigability of the river, and
+is the reputed site of the legend concerning St. Swithun and the old
+woman to whom the saint restored her eggs.
+
+Before the advent of the railway, that great destroyer of our ancient
+waterways, the Itchen was crowded with barges making their way from the
+maritime port to the inland city; for, like so many of our old British
+settlements, the site of Winchester was determined by the natural
+conditions of the land which could be utilized for the purposes of
+defence. Although every lock on the Itchen is now in ruins or choked by
+weeds, and the last of its fleet of brown-sailed barges is derelict,
+this is essentially a city whose origin goes back to the days when those
+who, coming cautiously up from Southampton Water, reached at length the
+practical part of the valley, where they built their stronghold under
+the shelter of the downs, yet within easy reach of the sea. It was by
+means of barges that much of the stone was brought for the building of
+the numerous churches and monastic buildings. This was brought from the
+Binstead Quarries in the Isle of Wight, from the Purbeck Quarries in
+Dorset, and possibly from Portland as well.
+
+There is ample evidence that Winchester was a British city (Caer-Gwent),
+and the Venta Belgarum of Roman days, when it was connected by roads
+with the other Roman cities of Andover, Silchester, Porchester, and
+Salisbury. With the taking of the town by the Saxons in 495 it became
+known as Wintanceastre, and here, after the final subjection of the
+Britons, the capital of Wessex was established. If the claim of
+Canterbury to be the "Mother City" of the Anglo-Saxon race be granted,
+few will deny to Winchester the honour of being her eldest and her
+fairest daughter. A royal city was this when Birinus, the apostle of
+Wessex, came hither in 634, on his way to the Oxfordshire Dorchester, to
+baptize the King of the West Saxons; and in 679 the episcopal see was
+established, a cathedral built, and a monastic house attached to it. It
+was from Wintanceastre that Egbert sent forth the decree which gave the
+name of Anglia to his kingdom; and here, by the tranquil waters of the
+Itchen, Alfred (with his friend, adviser, and tutor, St. Swithun),
+Athelstan, and Canute held their Courts, and directed their policies.
+
+It was during the reign of Athelstan that the redoubtable Guy, Earl of
+Warwick, returning to England in the garb of a palmer from a pilgrimage
+to the Holy Land, found the Danes besieging Winchester in great force,
+and King Athelstan unable to find a champion willing to meet the Danish
+giant, Colbrand, in order to decide the issue by single combat. The
+Earl, retaining his disguise as a palmer, begged the king to let him
+appear as the English champion.
+
+[Illustration: THE CITY BRIDGE]
+
+This singular combat, which was to decide the fate of the city,
+commenced by Guy breaking his spear on the giant's shield, and the Dane
+cutting the head off the Earl's horse. Guy then fought on foot, and,
+beating the club out of his opponent's hand, cut off his arm. So the
+duel waged until night, when the Dane, faint from loss of blood, fell
+to the ground, and his head was cut off by the English champion. Having
+settled the affair to the honour of his country and his own
+satisfaction, the Earl made himself known to the King, under an oath of
+secrecy, and returned thanks in the cathedral for his victory. He then
+retired to a hermitage beside the Avon, and passed the remainder of his
+life in the cave which still bears his name, and probably contains his
+bones.
+
+Several modern antiquaries are very sceptical about the whole story, and
+labour hard to prove that Guy was a mythical figure, and his deeds
+nothing but legendary lore. There is always some truth in these old
+legends, in spite of the frills and embellishments added by the later
+chroniclers, and the history of our land would be poor reading indeed if
+we banished the romantic legends merely because they are not confirmed
+by such dry-as-dust evidence as alone will satisfy a certain section of
+scientific compilers, whose minds can perceive neither truth nor beauty
+underlying ancient legends and traditions. The fact that they cannot be
+proved to have happened is more than half their charm, and our garden of
+romance, with its beautiful flowers of chivalry, is infinitely better to
+live with than the dry and parched fields given over to the cultivation
+of nothing but facts.
+
+The defeat of the Danish giant is said to have been achieved in a
+meadow to the north of the city, named from that occurrence "Danemark
+Mead"; and we are told also that the Dane's sword was to be seen in the
+Cathedral treasury down to the reign of James I. Be this as it may, we
+do know that in the eighth year of Edward I a writ of right was brought
+by the King against the Abbot of Hyde, to recover land usurped in the
+north suburb of the city, called "Denemarche", and judgment was given
+for the crown.
+
+The appearance of the city in Saxon days has been described thus by Dean
+Kitchin: "The three Minsters, which filled up the south-eastern corner
+of the city, were for long the finest group of churches and dwellings in
+all England. Wolvesey Palace, at once the school, the court of justice,
+and the royal dwelling place, formed the bulwark against the dreaded
+invasions of the Dane; inwards from Wolvesey precincts came the strong
+enclosure of St. Swithun's Convent, a second fortress, which protected
+the church, and behind both, sheltered by their strong walls and by the
+river and the marshlands to the north, were the growing buildings of the
+Nuns' Minster, and the new Minster. And up the rising towards the west,
+on either side of the ancient Roman road from the eastward gate of the
+city, the houses of the citizens began to cluster into a street, with
+here and there a stone-built dwelling, and the rest made of that 'wattle
+and dab' construction, of which from time to time examples are still
+laid bare in the city."
+
+Although many historical persons flit across the scene throughout the
+centuries, the personal associations of Winchester are dominated by the
+outstanding figures of Alfred, St. Swithun, and the great clerical
+craftsman, William of Wykeham, the builder of much of the cathedral, and
+the founder of St. Mary's College, Winchester, and New College,
+Oxford--the former of which, although of later foundation, was intended
+as a stepping-stone for the latter.
+
+With the Norman Conquest, and the rapid rise of Westminster, the days of
+Winchester as the seat of government were numbered, although it was much
+favoured by the early Norman kings, possibly owing to its proximity to
+such hunting grounds as the New Forest Cranborne Chase (where King
+John's hunting lodge still stands), and the Royal Warren of Purbeck.
+
+William I had his great palace near the cathedral, and it was to
+Winchester that the body of William Rufus was brought on a cart, after
+his ill-fated death in the New Forest.
+
+Then the Domesday Book--if not compiled at Winchester--was kept there
+for many years, when it was called "The Book of Winton". In the seventh
+year of Henry II a charge appears in the Pipe Roll for conveying the
+"arca", in which the book was kept, from Winchester to London.
+
+There is naturally much in the life-history of St. Swithun that is
+incapable of proof. He was possibly born in the neighbourhood of
+Winchester about the year 800. He became a monk of the old abbey, and
+rose to be head of the community, when he gained the favour of King
+Egbert, who entrusted him with the education of his son Ethelwolf. There
+is an authentic charter granted by Egbert in 838, and bearing the
+signatures of Elmstan, _episcopus_, and Swithunus, _diaconus_. On the
+death of Elmstan, in 852, Swithun was appointed his successor in the
+see, when, in addition to erecting several churches, and building a
+stone bridge over the Itchen, he appears to have enlarged and beautified
+the Saxon cathedral built by Kynewalch when Winchester became the seat
+of a bishopric in 679. The site of this Saxon church is considered to
+have been a little to the north of the present cathedral, which is a
+Norman building commenced by Walkelin a few years after the Conquest.
+
+St. Swithun is best known to-day in his capacity of weather prophet. In
+his humility he is said to have desired to be buried outside the church,
+so that the foot of the passer-by, and the rainwater from the eaves,
+could fall upon his grave; and here his body lay for more than a
+century. When his remains were eventually translated, a chapel was
+erected over the site of his grave at the north-east corner of the
+church, and faint traces of this building may still be seen. King Edgar
+provided the richly jewelled shrine into which the relics of the saint
+were translated by St. Ethelwold, on July 15, 980, when the relics of
+Birinus were enshrined at the same time, although these had already been
+translated from Dorchester to Winchester by Bishop Hedda as early as the
+seventh century. The shrine attracted an immense number of pilgrims
+until that of Becket at Canterbury rose into prominence. The skull of
+St. Swithun is said to have been taken to Canterbury by St. Elphege in
+the eleventh century, and an arm of this patron saint of Winchester was
+one of the most treasured possessions of Peterborough. What remained of
+these much-disturbed relics were re-translated by Bishop Walkelin from
+the old to the new cathedral, but in 1241 the shrine was broken by the
+vane of the tower falling through the roof.
+
+At the Reformation the shrine was destroyed, as is recorded in the
+commissioners' letter, dated September 21, 1538:--
+
+     "About three o'clock this Saturday morning, we made an end of the
+     shrine here at Winchester. There was no gold, nor ring, nor true
+     stone about it, but all great counterfeits; but the silver alone
+     will amount to 2000 marks."
+
+The popular tradition regarding St. Swithun's Day, July 15, is to the
+effect that, as it rains or is fair on this day, the ensuing forty days
+will be either wet or dry.
+
+     "St. Swithun's Day, if thou dost rain,
+     For forty days it will remain:
+     St. Swithun's Day, if thou be fair,
+     For forty days 't will rain nae mair."
+
+The tradition is said to be due to the saintly request being
+disregarded, with the result that, when his remains were about to be
+translated, a heavy rain burst forth, and continued without ceasing for
+the forty succeeding days. This was interpreted as a divine warning, so
+that, instead of disturbing the saintly bones, a chapel was erected over
+them. As a matter of fact, Professor Earle and other authorities assure
+us that the legend is fictitious, and that the translation was attended
+by the utmost eclat and success, and blessed with fine weather.
+
+[Illustration: WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL FROM THE DEANERY GARDENS]
+
+Foreign pilgrims coming from Normandy and Brittany, on their way to the
+shrine of St. Swithun, or to that of St. Thomas of Canterbury, would
+land, many of them, at Southampton, and journey to Winchester, there
+to await other bands of pilgrims bound for the great Kentish shrine.
+This was the route taken by Henry II when he did penance before the tomb
+of the murdered Becket, in July, 1174. Although clearly seen in the wold
+of Surrey and the weald of Kent at the present time, it must be
+confessed that but faint traces of the Pilgrims' Way remain in
+Hampshire, although early chroniclers speak of an old road that led
+direct from Winchester to Canterbury. The great concourse of pilgrims to
+St. Swithun's shrine caused Bishop Lucy to enlarge much of the church,
+and in the reign of the first Edward the building still known as the
+Strangers' Hall was erected by the monks of St. Swithun for the poorer
+class of pilgrims, who here found food and shelter for the night. On
+their departure they repaired to the doors of the Prior's lodging--the
+three beautiful arches of which now form the entrance to the
+Deanery--where they were given alms and fragments of food to sustain
+them on their journey.
+
+The associations of Alfred with this ancient Wessex capital are many and
+various. He founded the famous Abbey of Hyde, situated without the city
+gates, known for long as the New Minster, and first removed from its
+original site near the cathedral in the twelfth century. That Alfred's
+remains were laid to rest somewhere within, or just without, the walls
+is beyond question, although the exact spot has not yet been
+definitely located. When the Benedictine monks of Hyde obtained a
+charter from Henry I in 1110, giving them leave to erect a new convent
+and church in the green meadows outside the north gate, they are said to
+have taken to their new home the wonder-working shrine of St. Josse, the
+silver cross given by Canute, and the bones of Alfred.
+
+At the Reformation, Thomas Wriothesley wrote to Cromwell saying:--
+
+     "We intend both at Hyde and St. Mary to sweep away all the rotten
+     bones that be called relics; which we may not omit, lest it be
+     thought we came more for the treasure than for the avoiding of th'
+     abomination of idolatry".
+
+So the resting-place of the noblest of English kings remains unknown;
+but a passing antiquary is said to have carried off a stone marked with
+the words, "AELFRED REX, DCCCLXXXI", and this stone may still be seen at
+Corby Castle in Cumberland.
+
+Of Hyde Abbey nothing but an old gateway near St. Bartholomew's Church,
+and some slight fragments of wall, remain; but a considerable portion
+was standing until the ruins were pulled down to provide the site for a
+new Bridewell, which has vanished in its turn. The property has now come
+into the hands of the Corporation, and scientific excavations have been
+commenced. Strong hopes are entertained that Alfred's tomb may be
+found, although the iconoclasts of the Reformation and the Magistrates
+of later days have made the task a difficult, if not an impossible one.
+In 1901 Alfred's thousandth anniversary was celebrated at Winchester,
+and on September 20 of that year Lord Rosebery unveiled Hamo
+Thorneycroft's magnificent bronze statue, standing in the Broadway, and
+bearing on its granite pedestal the single word, eloquent in its
+simplicity:--
+
+     AELFRED.
+
+Interesting and important as are the associations of Alfred and St.
+Swithun with this ancient capital of Wessex, the _genius loci_ is
+William of Wykeham, one of the most remarkable men the world has ever
+produced. The more we study his life and character the more we are
+amazed at the versatile nature of his splendid gifts. Born, like Wolsey,
+the only other clerical architect with whom he can be compared, of
+humble parents, in the sleepy little village of Wickham, in the autumn
+of 1324, he early attracted the attention of Sir John Scures, the lord
+of the manor of Wickham, and Constable of Winchester Castle. By Sir
+John's influence he became a scholar at the Priory School, the "Great
+Grammar School of Winchester", then situated just outside the west wall
+of the priory enclosure. Taught by the brethren of St. Swithun's, he
+was eventually recommended to Bishop Edington, who appears to have
+appreciated the great talent for architecture shown by young Wykeham.
+Edington himself was no mean builder, and he had already begun to
+rebuild the west front of the cathedral, and to transform the nave from
+the Norman to the Perpendicular style, a transformation that was to be
+completed by Wykeham when he succeeded his old master in the episcopacy.
+
+In Wykeham's twenty-third year Edward III came to Winchester, and he,
+having heard of the clever young architect, wished to test his skill in
+the warfare then being waged against Scotland and France, and
+particularly in the new fortifications of Calais. On taking service with
+the King, plain William Wykeham became Sir William de Wykeham, and as
+Surveyor of Works he superintended such buildings as St. Stephen's
+Chapel, Westminster, and the castles of Dover and Queensborough. In 1356
+he was in charge of Windsor Castle, which, as his birthplace, Edward
+wished to beautify by many additions. It has been said that the Round
+Tower Wykeham built at Windsor made the fortune of its designer. We now
+find Wykeham Warden of all the royal castles, and sub-dean of the church
+of St. Martins-le-Grand, on the site of which is the General Post
+Office; and as a public notary he was present at the signing of the
+Treaty of Bretigny.
+
+Possibly owing to the dearth of clergy caused by the Black Death,
+Wykeham, after the laying-on of hands by his old master, Bishop
+Edington, became an acolyte in the December of 1361, a sub-deacon in the
+March following, and priest in the June of 1362. A few years later, when
+Edington was laid to rest within his cathedral, a sharp controversy
+arose between the King and the Pope as to who should succeed. The
+differences, which need not be discussed here, being eventually settled
+to the satisfaction of both parties, Wykeham was offered the vacant see,
+when he said to the King:
+
+     "Sire, I am unworthy, but wherein I am wanting myself, that will I
+     supply by a brood of more scholars than all the prelates of England
+     ever showed".
+
+And how worthily he fulfilled his promise is a matter of history.
+
+To quote the authors of _Historic Winchester_:
+
+     "There was a great stir in the old city when the day of Wykeham's
+     enthronement arrived. It was the 9th of July, and the town would be
+     looking especially beautiful in its bower of trees; an outrider had
+     announced the bishop before he entered the city, probably by the
+     north gate, and either here or at the entrance to the close he was
+     met by the Archdeacon of Northampton, William Athey by name, who
+     was commissioned to enthrone him: having saluted, the Archdeacon
+     alighted from his palfrey, which according to the custom at that
+     time was with all its trappings taken possession of by this
+     ecclesiastic.... The bishop's robing most probably took place at
+     the priory close by, from whence the procession, forming in the
+     cloisters under the direction of Hugo de Basyng, prior of St.
+     Swithun's, would pass to the west door, where it would be joined by
+     the heads of the other monasteries in and near Winchester--Thomas
+     de Pechy, Abbot of Hyde, holding highest rank amongst them. Next
+     would follow long lines of monks clad in their robes of brown,
+     black, white, or grey, according to their order, and then many a
+     layman, gathered in from the country round to honour both Church
+     and State on this occasion. The great procession, gorgeous with
+     embroidered cope and many a rich vestment, with episcopal staff and
+     crozier both of prior and abbot carried aloft, must have formed an
+     imposing spectacle as it filed up the long nave of the cathedral,
+     thronged, doubtless, to overflowing by many citizens--for unusual
+     interest would be evinced by Winchester in this enthronement of one
+     long known to them, now Chancellor of England and certainly, next
+     to the King and Archbishop, the greatest man in the country."
+
+As bishop, Wykeham found plenty to do, apart from his ecclesiastical
+duties, in repairing his various palaces, and in housing the
+predecessors of his Winchester scholars in a house on St. Giles's Hill,
+until such time as he could give them fitting buildings and a chapel of
+their own. But before Wykeham could see his schemes take an
+architectural form, he was to suffer the loss of royal favour owing to
+the death of the Black Prince and the rise into power of his enemy, John
+of Gaunt. The bishop was charged with the misappropriation of a small
+sum of money, and, judgment being given against him, the temporalities
+of the see of Winchester were seized, and he was forbidden to come
+within twenty miles of the Court. He retired to Waverley Abbey, of which
+some picturesque ruins remain, near Farnham; and although on the King's
+jubilee pardon was granted to all offenders, a special exception was
+made in the case of "Sire William de Wykeham".
+
+[Illustration: WYKEHAM'S CHANTRY]
+
+This was more than the heads of the Church could stand, especially as
+the original charge was an unjust one; so at the ensuing meeting of
+Convocation, Courtenay, then Bishop of London, declared boldly that
+unless their favourite bishop was reinstated in office, no money would
+be forthcoming from the clergy. In less than a month the pressing need
+of funds caused the King to send a messenger to Waverley and beg Wykeham
+to return to his house at Southwark. This was the first step, which,
+however, did not mean an immediate return to the temporalities, as these
+had been settled on the youthful heir apparent, Richard; but the people
+took up Wykeham's cause, and on June 18, 1377, in the presence of the
+little Richard, his uncle, and the King's council, Wykeham promised to
+fit out three galleys for sea, in return for the temporalities of
+Winchester. Two days later Edward III died, forsaken by his mistress,
+Alice Perrers, and estranged from the one man who had served him so long
+and so faithfully.
+
+The architectural genius of Wykeham as exhibited at St. Mary's College
+and the cathedral at Winchester, and at New College, Oxford, originally
+founded as "St. Maries' College of Winchester at Oxenford", marks a very
+decided epoch in the development of English architecture. His works, in
+an architectural style found nowhere but in England, are the outcome of
+a mind free from triviality, and full of common sense. His buildings are
+admirably suited to their purpose, and at first sight they appear to be
+so simple in design that it has been suggested that Wykeham cared more
+for the constructive than the artistic side of building. It is true that
+he considered sound construction and good proportions of greater
+importance than a profusion of detail, yet such ornament as is found in
+his work is highly effective and most carefully studied. To this
+bishop-architect we undoubtedly owe much of the dignity and simplicity
+which mark the Early Perpendicular buildings, qualities which make the
+style such a contrast to the exuberance of that which immediately
+preceded it, or the over-elaboration of the Tudor buildings that
+followed it.
+
+With few exceptions, practically the whole of Wykeham's work, both here
+and at Oxford, remains much as he left it; so that, good bishop, wise
+administrator, generous founder, and pioneer educationist though he was,
+it is mainly as a munificent builder and architectural genius that his
+fame has lived in the past, and will continue to live in the future.
+
+Here for the moment we must leave the great prelate of Winchester and
+begin our perambulation of the city that received him as a youth,
+welcomed him as a bishop, mourned him when dead, and that still bears on
+the long nave of its cathedral, and on its famous college, the impress
+of his manly, robust, and essentially English mind.
+
+By way of a footpath leading from the London and South-Western Railway
+station, the upper part of the famous High Street can be reached,
+although the thoroughfare now possesses but few features of interest
+until we arrive at the old West Gate, a reminder, if such were needed,
+that Winchester was a heavily fortified and strongly walled city. On the
+right is Castle Hill, the site of the ancient castle wherein Stigand,
+Archbishop of Canterbury, was imprisoned and Matilda besieged, and from
+whose courtyard William Rufus set out on the hunting expedition to the
+New Forest which was attended by such fatal consequences. All that now
+remains of this stronghold is the fine old hall built by Henry III.
+
+For some time this apartment was used as the County Hall, and here Judge
+Jeffreys opened his Bloody Assize before proceeding to Dorchester,
+Exeter, and Taunton. Alice Lisle was the widow of John Lisle, who had
+been Master of St. Cross Hospital, and member for Winchester in the Long
+Parliament. Although the men of Hampshire had taken no part in
+Monmouth's Rebellion, many of the fugitives had fled thither, and two of
+them, John Hickes, a Non-conformist divine, and Richard Nelthorpe, a
+lawyer, found refuge in the house of Alice Lisle, where they were
+eventually discovered. At her trial, Alice Lisle stated briefly that,
+although she knew Hickes to be in trouble, she was quite ignorant of the
+fact that he had participated in the rebellion. When the jury said they
+doubted if the charge had been made out, Jeffreys was furious, and after
+another long consultation they returned a verdict of "Guilty". The next
+morning the judge pronounced sentence, and ordered the prisoner to be
+_burned alive_ that same afternoon. When remonstrances had poured in
+from all quarters, Jeffreys consented to the execution being postponed
+for five days; and the sentence was eventually commuted from burning to
+hanging. So the first victim of Monmouth's ill-fated rebellion was
+hanged on a scaffold in the market-place of Winchester.
+
+A striking object hanging at one end of the hall is the top of the
+reputed Round Table of King Arthur, painted in radiating white and green
+sections, with a portrait of the famous king inset, crowned and robed,
+and the Tudor rose in the centre, while around the circumference are
+the names of the knights in old black-letter characters. Doubtful though
+it is that the table is the actual one that figures in the Arthurian
+legends, yet it is certainly of great antiquity, and has been frequently
+referred to by more than one writer of mediaeval days. It has been
+conjectured that it may be nothing more than the wheel of fortune which
+Henry III commanded to be made for the castle. In later years another
+palace was started here by Charles II, the only portion that was
+completed being now used as barracks.
+
+Beyond the West Gate is an obelisk, set up in commemoration of a
+visitation of the Plague in 1669, when the country people brought their
+produce and left it outside the gate to be taken in by the city
+dwellers, who deposited the money for the goods in bowls of vinegar,
+whence it was abstracted by pincers, to avoid infection. The stone on
+which the exchanges were made is incorporated in the base of the
+obelisk.
+
+The West Gate is the only one that remains of the principal entrances to
+the city, as King's Gate, with the little church of St. Swithun perched
+on top, was of secondary importance. This West Gate escaped the fate
+that has overtaken so many of our old city gates owing to its having
+been used for some time as a smoking room for the adjacent hotel. This
+apartment above the crown of the gateway arch is, like that over the
+West Gate of Canterbury, used for the purposes of a museum, wherein are
+deposited such interesting relics as the Winchester bushel, cloth
+measures, and ancient instruments of punishment. At one time the room
+was used as a prison, and the walls are covered with names or marks made
+by those who were incarcerated here.
+
+The gate is of fourteenth-century date, the two panels with armorial
+bearings seen on the western side of the archway being later insertions.
+Through the gateway a delightful view is obtained of the picturesque
+High Street, with many a high-pitched gable rising above the masses of
+irregular architecture; while an ancient clock on a wooden bracket juts
+out from the old Queen Anne Guildhall, which has a statue of Her Majesty
+over the entrance, the Curfew Tower rising on one side of the building.
+A new Guildhall of greater architectural pretensions has been erected in
+the Broadway, the original one being now used as a shop.
+
+[Illustration: THE BUTTER CROSS]
+
+From the West Gate the High Street slopes down to the Itchen. On the
+right stands the old Butter Cross, in rather a cramped position. Two
+reasons have been given for its name: one, that during Lent, those
+wishing to eat butter could do so by consuming it by the cross; the
+other, and more probable, explanation is that here came farmers wishing
+to dispose of their butter, which they exposed for sale on the steps
+of the cross. The structure is of fifteenth-century date, but has been
+much restored, the only original figure on it being that of St.
+Amphibalus. Just beside the cross is the interesting little opening that
+leads into the Close, and in which is the entrance to St. Lawrence
+Church, of which nothing is visible from this point but the doorway, and
+the tower rising above the surrounding houses. This church has been said
+to be the Mother Church of the diocese of Winchester, an idea that may
+have owed its origin to the fact that before proceeding to the Cathedral
+to be enthroned the bishops designate enter this ancient church to robe
+and "ring themselves in". Only the other day, May 6, 1911, Dr. Talbot
+followed this old custom, and the people listened eagerly for the number
+of rings, as these are supposed to denote the number of years the bishop
+will be at the head of the diocese. It may be of interest to chronicle
+that Dr. Talbot rang nine times.
+
+Near the church at one time was an open space called the Square, where
+were situated the Pillory and Whipping Post. The palace of William I is
+said to have occupied this site, and St. Lawrence's Church may possibly
+have been the private chapel of the royal residence. A fragment of
+Norman masonry gives a certain amount of probability to the
+supposition, while at the beginning of last century some workmen
+excavating in Market Street came across the foundations of an ancient
+tower, of great thickness and strength. The present arched and narrow
+entrance from High Street leads to the fine avenue of limes that forms
+the principal approach to the west front of the Cathedral, begun by
+Edington _circa_ 1360, the severe simplicity of which has been much
+criticized, Ruskin assailing it furiously in the _Stones of Venice_. On
+the apex of the gable is a canopied niche containing a statue of
+Wykeham.
+
+The present edifice is thought to stand approximately on the site of the
+earlier Saxon church restored by Ethelwold in 980, in which Queen Emma
+underwent the "fiery ordeal" by walking blindfold and barefooted over
+nine red-hot plough-shares, thus proving her innocence of the charges
+brought against her, and furnishing her accusers with an example of what
+female chastity is able to accomplish. The main portion of the structure
+as seen to-day was begun by Bishop Walkelin about 1079, and completed
+some fourteen years later. It is the longest of English churches,
+measuring externally 566 feet, and internally 562-1/2 feet, being a few
+feet longer than St. Alban's, which has the same plan; although we must
+remember that when the nave of Winchester terminated at the west in two
+large towers the whole mass was 40 feet longer than at present.
+
+The vista of the whole block of masonry, with its stumpy tower and
+heavily buttressed walls, conveys the idea of immense strength rather
+than of gracefulness; while its situation at the bottom of a hill, and
+near the bank of the river, is one of great charm.
+
+It is when the nave is entered that the full beauty and vast proportions
+of the Norman church are revealed, for this is in essence a Norman
+building encased with Perpendicular details and additions. As Wykeham's
+alterations were merely added to the original piers, the stateliness of
+the whole remains. Full credit, of course, must be given to Wykeham for
+the wonderful skill he showed in this work of transformation, and in
+removing the heavy triforium, although the grandeur of the nave as a
+whole is due to the combined work of Walkelin and Wykeham. This
+alteration of styles in the nave was begun by Edington, continued by
+Wykeham, and completed by his successors in the see--Cardinal Beaufort
+and Bishop Waynflete--who built the stone vaulting of the roof. The
+tower at the intersection of the transepts is the second of its kind,
+the first, built by Walkelin, having fallen in 1107, owing, says
+tradition, to the wicked Red King having been buried beneath it. Of its
+rebuilding there are no records.
+
+So many detailed architectural histories of the building have appeared
+that its principal features must be familiar to every lover of our
+national architecture. There are, however, one or two features about
+this cathedral that should be noted. Apart from its great length, which
+is greater than any church in the world, with the exception of St.
+Peter's at Rome, it is remarkable for its parclose screens, with the
+mortuary chests upon them; and for the beauty and number of its
+chantries, in which it is richer than any other English cathedral. They
+are said to have been saved from destruction during the Civil War by the
+Parliamentary colonel, Fiennes, an old Wykehamist; and certain
+historians describe the dramatic incident of the colonel standing with
+drawn sword to protect the chantry of the founder of his Alma Mater from
+the iconoclastic tendencies of his troopers. The chantries number seven,
+and were built as chapels by bishops for their last resting-places.
+Within these chantries are the tombs of Edington, Wykeham, Waynflete,
+Beaufort, Gardiner, Langton, and Fox, all of whom were bishops of the
+diocese. Fox's chantry was carefully restored by Corpus Christi College,
+Oxford; and that of Waynflete by Magdalen College, as a mark of
+reverence and esteem for the memory of their respective founders.
+
+The first to be seen on entering the nave from the west is that of
+Wykeham, whose faith in the solidity of Norman building was so great
+that he did not hesitate to cut away more than a third of the two nave
+pillars between which it is placed. Within the chapel, said to have been
+built on the site of an altar to the Virgin, is the effigy of the
+bishop-builder, with flesh and robes coloured "proper", as the heralds
+say; and at his feet are the figures of his three favourite monks, to
+whom he left an endowment for the celebration of three masses daily in
+his chantry, while each was to receive one penny a day from the prior.
+The effigy lies on an altar tomb, in episcopal attire, the head-pillow
+supported by two angels. Five bays farther on is Edington's chantry, but
+without effigy, as also are those of Fox and Langton. Of the seven
+chantries those of Fox and Beaufort are usually considered the most
+beautiful.
+
+The proud Cardinal Beaufort, founder of the "Almshouse of Noble Poverty"
+at St. Cross, is represented by Shakespeare as dying in despair:
+
+     "Lord Cardinal, if thou think'st on Heaven's bliss
+     Hold up thy hand: make signal of thy hope.
+     He dies, and makes no sign!"
+
+Dean Kitchin writes: "One cannot look at his effigy, as it lies in his
+stately chantry, without noting the powerful and selfish characteristics
+of his face, and especially the nose, large, curved, and money-loving.
+The sums Beaufort had at his disposal were so large that he was the
+Rothschild of his day. More than once he lent his royal masters enough
+money to carry them through their expeditions."
+
+The mortuary chests are certainly among the most interesting things
+possessed by any English cathedral. They are supposed to contain the
+bones of Kings Eadulph, Kinegils, Kenulf, Egbert, Canute, Rufus, Edmund,
+Edred, Queen Emma, and Bishops Wina and Alwyn. They no doubt got much
+mixed up when removed from the crypt by Henry de Blois, and again when
+the chests were broken open by the Parliamentarians, so that a detailed
+identification has been made impossible. It is now generally
+acknowledged that the bones of Rufus are in one of these chests, and
+that the so-called Rufus tomb in the retro-choir is the burial place of
+some great ecclesiastic. Such at any rate is the opinion of Dean
+Kitchin, who has done so much to elucidate the past history of the city
+and its Cathedral.
+
+When one of these boxes was taken recently out of its enclosing chest
+and examined, it was found to have a roof something like a low gable,
+which was decorated with painting about a century later than the time of
+de Blois. On the outside appeared the words in Latin: "Here are together
+the bones of King Kinegils and of Ethelwolf". Four of the Italian
+chests that held the inner boxes were the gift of Bishop Fox. The
+other chests have revealed five complete sets of human bones, and among
+the remains in another were the bones of a female, possibly those of
+Queen Emma.
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE DEANERY]
+
+The visitor will not fail to have pointed out to him by the
+well-informed vergers the innumerable features of interest, such as the
+Lady Chapel, the retro-choir, the Holy Hole where the relics were kept,
+the black oak stalls of the choir, the fine pulpit given by Prior
+Silkstede, and the magnificent screen begun by Beaufort and completed by
+Fox. The monuments, apart from those contained in the chantries, are
+many, and include one surmounted by a beautifully wrought cross-legged
+effigy, which has not yet been identified. There are memorials or tombs
+of James I and Charles I, by le Suer, who wrought the statue of the
+latter at Charing Cross; Dr. Warton, Professor of Poetry at Oxford, and
+headmaster of Winchester; Jane Austen; and William Unwin, the intimate
+friend of Cowper. A flat stone, with an inscription by his
+brother-in-law, Ken, marks the resting-place of Izaak Walton, "whose
+book", a modern writer tells us, "makes the reader forget for the time
+the cruelty of his sport".
+
+The curiously carved font, whereon are depicted symbolical figures and
+incidents from the legendary life of St. Nicholas of Myra, bears much
+similarity to three others found in Hampshire--at St. Michaels',
+Southampton; East Meon; and St. Mary Bourne. They are all of the same
+era, and possibly the work of the same hand, being among the most
+interesting of our Norman fonts. The material of which they are made has
+never been settled, some authorities defining it as Tournai marble,
+others as basalt, and yet others as nothing more than slate.
+
+The roll of bishops is a remarkable one, and the see has had eleven who
+were also Lord Chancellors, the last being Wolsey in 1529.
+
+As we have seen, Winchester continued in favour with the reigning houses
+long after it had ceased to be a royal residence. Here Henry I was
+married to the Saxon Matilda, and here in the closing years of his life
+the aged Wykeham married Henry IV and Joan of Navarre; and here, too,
+came Philip of Spain and Henry VIII's sad daughter, Mary of England, to
+be wedded before the high altar, the chair on which the royal bride sat
+being still shown to visitors.
+
+For the architectural student the plan of the cathedral is not the least
+interesting feature of the building, for although it has an ambulatory
+which is semicircular internally, the plan is in other respects rather
+exceptional. It is what architects call a periapsidal plan, meaning that
+its eastern termination contains a processional aisle or ambulatory,
+designed mainly for the purpose of allowing a procession to pass round
+the high altar without entering the presbytery. In the crypt of
+Winchester Cathedral the plan of the early Norman church may be seen
+_sui generis_. A rather exceptional feature is that the eastern
+ambulatory is semicircular within but rectangular without, although the
+long chapel that projects from this ambulatory has an apsidal, not a
+rectangular, termination.
+
+To the receptive mind all our ancient cathedrals, and a few of our
+modern ones, possess a subtle atmosphere of their own, indescribable but
+plainly felt, both within and without their walls. In such an atmosphere
+we lose sight of the Winchester of to-day. It becomes ancient,
+ecclesiastical, historical, learned, and romantic. Here we return in
+imagination to the scenes of the Middle Ages, when love was attested by
+chivalrous deeds of arms done in honour of bright eyes, and poetry
+sounded its lyre in praise of him who had been most devoted to his
+Church, most faithful to his mistress, and most loyal to his king. As a
+whole, this Cathedral of Winchester is a vast building, simple almost to
+a fault, yet one that possesses a solemn repose unspeakably restful to
+mind and spirit--a sense of undisturbed harmony and refined yet massive
+simplicity. Towards eventide the shadows of the turrets and pinnacles
+creep, day by day, over the surrounding bands of greensward, their cool
+greys advancing inch by inch until they reach the spacious pavements,
+whereon they cast the symbols of our Christian faith in ruddy
+trefoil-headed slants of glory.
+
+Whatever else is omitted from the history of the Cathedral, mention must
+be made of the valiant efforts that have been and are still being made
+to preserve the stability of the structure. A few years ago the east end
+showed signs of subsidence, and ominous cracks appeared in the north
+transept, a part of the old Norman church. An examination of the fabric
+proved that herculean tasks were essential to save this portion of the
+edifice. It was agreed that only by extensive underpinning could the
+work be accomplished. It has been very costly, and funds are most
+urgently needed to complete the preservation, not only of the eastern
+end, but of the whole Cathedral. The cradle of woodwork erected to give
+temporary support to the eastern superstructure cost over a thousand
+pounds to fix, and up to date many thousands of pounds have been spent
+on the work. It was not until these temporary supports had been fixed
+and excavations begun that the magnitude of the task was fully revealed.
+The Cathedral was found to have been built on an old "water-bed" having
+a foundation of peat, the distance between the ground level and the
+firm gravel beneath the peat being 27 feet. The only hope of saving the
+east end was to remove the peat and fill in the spaces with concrete and
+cement. With the removal of the peat, however, there was so great an
+influx of water that pumping was of no avail. Two of the best divers in
+the kingdom were then procured, and by working on their backs and sides
+in 15 feet of muddy water they succeeded in laying the concrete bed.
+Owing to the same cause, the remainder of the structure will, sooner or
+later, have to be treated in the same way, and the thorough restoration
+of the west front cannot be long postponed. The difficulty of the work
+is realized when we consider that it takes a whole month to underpin 4
+feet of foundation. Owing to the cramped space and the darkness three
+weeks are spent in excavation; after which the divers require a week to
+place the concrete and cement in position. That so national a heritage
+will be saved, for the delight of our own and the instruction of future
+generations, must be the wish of all true lovers of the great building
+achievements of the past.
+
+The cathedral precincts are in excellent keeping with the repose and
+beauty of the building to which they form the court, and are full of
+historical memories. The palace of the Conqueror reached from Great
+Minster Street to Market Street, from High Street to the Square; and
+eastwards rose the "New Minster", and the Nuns' Abbey of St. Mary.
+
+To-day the greater part of the Close, with the Deanery and the various
+canonical residences, lies on the south side. Only a few slight
+fragments remain of the cloisters, the destruction of which could not
+have been considered possible by Wykeham. They were taken down by Bishop
+Horne in the reign of Elizabeth. The short row of Norman arches seen
+from the Close belonged to the old Chapter House, which is said to have
+been pulled down for the sake of its lead. The Deanery was the ancient
+house of the Priors, of which it contains many interesting memorials.
+Here are the Great Hall, now subdivided, and the Hospitium, used as
+stables. The Deanery entrance has three pointed arches, beneath which,
+as we have stated, the poor pilgrims and other wayfarers received food
+and alms. On his numerous visits to Winchester, Charles II used to lodge
+at the Deanery, until Prebendary Ken (afterwards Bishop of Bath and
+Wells) refused to allow Nell Gwynne to enter the house, with the result
+that she had to content herself with an inferior residence outside the
+precincts.
+
+Of Wykeham's "College of St. Marie", or New College, Oxford, this is not
+the place to speak, especially as it has already been dealt with in the
+"Oxford" volume of this "Beautiful England" series. His other
+"College of St. Mary", or, as it is commonly known, Winchester College,
+has a history extending far beyond that of most of our great public
+schools; and Winchester was celebrated for its educational institutions
+in Saxon days.
+
+[Illustration: WINCHESTER COLLEGE: THE OUTER GATEWAY FROM "ARCADIA"]
+
+Wykeham's idea in founding these two colleges was one for which he had
+no precedent before him, so that his design was to a large extent in the
+nature of an experiment. His idea, of course, was to enable those who
+proceeded from the Winchester to the Oxford College to receive a
+systematic and continuous education. Where Wykeham led, others were not
+long in following. Two of his successors in the see of Winchester,
+Waynflete and Fox, gave to Oxford the beautiful colleges of Magdalen and
+Corpus Christi respectively. Archbishop Chichele, one of Wykeham's first
+scholars, built St. Bernard's College, now St. John Baptist's, which he
+gave to the Cistercians before its completion; and later in life he
+founded the College of All Souls, while in his native village of Higham
+Ferrers, Northants, he built and endowed a school, bede-house, and
+church, which are among some of the loveliest pieces of building we
+possess. Henry VI made himself intimately acquainted with the works of
+Wykeham, and copied them for his two colleges of Eton, and King's
+College, Cambridge. Until Wykeham's time, schools had been under or
+connected with monastic houses; now they were distinct foundations, with
+priests still as masters, but priests secular and not religious. Wykeham
+was, indeed, the pioneer of the public-school system, of which, with all
+its shortcomings, England is so justly proud.
+
+Each of the bishop's colleges took about six years in building, and that
+at Oxford was the first to be finished. It must have been a proud day
+for Winchester when, on March 28, 1393, the "seventy faithful boys",
+headed by their master, came in procession from St. Giles's Hill, where
+they had been temporarily housed, and, all chanting psalms, entered into
+possession of their fair college.
+
+The buildings have been but little altered since their founder's day,
+and extend now, as then, on the south side of the Close, and along the
+bank of the Itchen. They consist mainly of two quadrangles, in the first
+of which, entered from College Street by a gateway, are the Warden's
+house and other offices. Here is the brewhouse, quite unaltered; but the
+Warden's house has absorbed the old bakehouse, slaughterhouse, and
+butcher's room. Over the second archway are figures of the Virgin, with
+Gabriel on her right, and Wykeham kneeling on her left. Here was a room
+for the Warden, from which he could see all who entered or left the
+college; and here also is the site of the old penthouse under which the
+scholars used to perform their ablutions, and which they called "Moab".
+The old Society comprised the Warden, ten Fellows, three Chaplains,
+sixteen Queristers, and seventy scholars. The boys, the chaplains, and
+the choristers lived within the inner quadrangle, the northern side of
+which is formed by the chapel and the refectory. The original chapel,
+with the exception of the beautiful fan-groining of its roof, was much
+defaced in the seventeenth century, but was restored in the nineteenth,
+when a new reredos was added. The refectory remains practically
+untouched, and has a roof enriched with some beautiful carved woodwork,
+the painted heads of kings and bishops, and some great mullioned
+windows. Over the buttery is the audit-room, hung with ancient and rare
+tapestries, and containing a large chest known as Wykeham's money box.
+The original schoolroom was in the basement, and has long been put to
+other uses. The chantry, the beautiful cloisters, and the chapel tower
+were all built after the founder's death, but he provided a wooden bell
+tower, which stood away from the chapel, so that the main building
+should not be injured by the vibration of the bells. The remaining
+portions are mostly modern, and the foundation has naturally been much
+enlarged since Wykeham's day, the last addition being the gateway in
+Kingsgate Street, erected as a memorial to the many Wykehamists who
+fell in the South African War.
+
+On the wall of a passage adjoining the kitchen is a singular painting,
+supposed to be emblematical of a "trusty servant", compounded of a man,
+a hog, a deer, and an ass. The explanatory words beneath it are
+attributed to Dr. Christopher Jonson, headmaster from 1560 to 1571.
+
+With the completion of Winchester College, Wykeham turned his attention
+to the Cathedral, although he was then seventy years of age. He lived to
+see his munificence bearing good fruit, and his foundations flourishing
+in reputation and usefulness; so that when he lay down to die, on
+September 27, 1404, in his palace of Bishops' Waltham, he could look
+back to a long life spent in the service of his Maker. The funeral
+procession moved slowly along the ten miles that separated palace from
+Cathedral through crowds of people mourning his loss. At the Cathedral
+door the prior met the procession, and the great bishop-builder was laid
+to rest in the beautiful chantry he had himself prepared. Four days
+before his death he made and signed his will, in which he bestowed gifts
+and legacies with the liberality that was so marked a characteristic of
+his life. That crowds of poor would attend his obsequies he was probably
+aware, for to each poor person seeking a bounty he bequeathed fourpence,
+"for the love of God and his soul's health". To the Cathedral, on
+which he had expended so much of his genius, he left money for its
+completion; and bequeathed to it many precious things, including a cross
+of gold in which was a piece of the "Tree of the Lord". Henry IV was
+forgiven a debt of five hundred pounds, and was to have a pair of
+silver-gilt basins, ornamented with double roses, which were probably
+given to Wykeham by Edward III, as a special mark of his favour. So we
+take leave of this master builder and munificent bishop, whose motto
+"Manners makyth man" is known the world over. The inscription on his
+tomb tells us of his works, but Wykeham needs no inscription so long as
+the stones of the Cathedral hold together, and his two fair colleges
+raise their buttressed walls beside the waters of the Isis and the
+Itchen.
+
+[Illustration: THE CLOISTERS, WINCHESTER COLLEGE]
+
+Returning to the Butter Cross, the Piazza adjoining reminds one of the
+Butter Walk at Dartmouth, and the famous "Rows" of Chester. It was used
+for many years as a market where the country folk brought their produce,
+being then known as the "Penthouse". The mints established on the site
+by Athelstan were noted for the excellence of the coinage made there. In
+the Westgate Museum an old leaden box is shown which was discovered at
+Beauworth by a shepherd. It was found to contain some six thousand
+silver pennies of the coinage of William I and Rufus. In addition to its
+famous mints Winchester was the chief trading centre of this part of
+England during mediaeval days. A great woollen trade was carried on with
+Flanders when the city became one of the "staple" towns, still
+commemorated by "Staple Gardens", a narrow lane leading out of the north
+side of High Street, where the great warehouse for the storage of wool
+once stood. A little below the Queen Anne Guildhall, but on the opposite
+side of the street, is St. John's Hospital; while another old lane
+leading off from the main thoroughfare is Royal Oak Passage, at the
+junction of which with the street is the ancient house known as
+God-begot House, with some good timberwork and a fine gable. "Jewry"
+Street recalls to our memory the early settlement of the Jews in
+Winchester, for the citizens seem to have been more kindly disposed
+towards this persecuted race than those of the majority of English
+cities at an early period in their history. Richard of Devizes, in 1189,
+called Winchester the "Jerusalem of the Jews", and, writing of the
+massacre and plunder of the Jews in London and other cities, said:
+"Winchester alone, the people being prudent and circumspect and the city
+always acting mildly, spared its vermin". The Jews settled in Winchester
+between the years 1090 and 1290, landing at Southampton and making
+their way up the Itchen until they came in sight of the old capital of
+the kingdom. Crossing the river, they entered the city by the East Gate,
+and finally chose as their abiding-place a site near the north walls, in
+a thoroughfare then known as "Scowrtenstrete", Shoemakers' Row. The
+community soon could boast of a synagogue, and were the possessors of
+several schools. At the bottom of the High Street are the Abbey Gardens,
+so called from their being on the site of an abbey founded by Ealhswith,
+King Alfred's queen, in which to spend the years of her widowhood. The
+general plan of the gardens has probably been but little altered since
+the days when the nuns paced their shady paths in pious meditation. An
+ancient manuscript of prayers, used by the abbess in the ninth century,
+is preserved in the British Museum. Ealhswith's son, Edward the Elder,
+levied a toll from all merchandise passing under the City Bridge by
+water, and beneath the East Gate by land, for the better support of the
+abbey founded by his mother. Before the bridge stood the East Gate, and
+crossing we are in that part of the city known as the "Soke". In the
+"Liberty of the Soke" the bishop of the diocese had his court, presided
+over by the bailiff as his deputy. Thus the bishop's jurisdiction was
+entirely independent of that of the civic authorities. Wolvesey was his
+palace, and within its walls, now ivy-clad and crumbling to decay, he
+held his court, with three tithing men and a constable to assist him.
+Here also was his exchequer, and here he imprisoned those who offended
+against his laws. All that now remains of the once celebrated episcopal
+palace of Wolvesey--said, with no authority, to have been so named from
+the tribute of wolves' heads levied upon the Welsh by King Edgar--are a
+few ruined walls, of sufficient extent to give one an idea of the
+strength of the castle in its original state. At Wolvesey King Alfred
+brought together the scholars who were to aid him in writing the
+"Chronicles of the Time"; and on the outer walls he hung the bodies of
+Danish pirates as a warning to those who made periodical raids up the
+valley of the Itchen.
+
+In the hands of Bishop de Blois the palace became of great importance,
+and withstood a siege by David, King of Scotland, and Robert, Earl of
+Gloucester. De Blois was one of those who assisted at the coronation of
+Henry II, and pulled down the tower when the bishop was absent from the
+diocese without the royal permission, on a visit to Clugny. Although
+shorn of much of its former strength, the palace remained a fortress
+until the fortifications of Winchester were reduced to a heap of ruins
+by Cromwell.
+
+[Illustration: RUINS OF WOLVESEY CASTLE]
+
+Beyond the City Bridge rises St. Giles's Hill, named after Giles, one
+of those numerous hermit saints who played so prominent a part in
+establishing the Christian faith in these islands. The hill is deeply
+grooved by a railway cutting; on it was held for many centuries a kind
+of open market or annual fair, which attracted the wealthy merchants of
+France, Flanders, and Italy. The fair generally lasted a fortnight,
+during which time all other local business was suspended, the shops
+closed, and the mayor handed over the keys of the city to the bishop,
+who claimed large fees from the stall holders. Thirty marks were paid
+for repairs needed at the Church of St. Swithun, and similar sums were
+demanded by the abbeys. Bishop Walkelin was granted the tolls of the
+fair for three days by William Rufus, his kinsman; but in the time of
+Henry III the privilege was extended to sixteen days. The stalls were
+arranged in long rows, and named according to the goods sold thereon, or
+after the nationality of the vendors. Thus one row would be named the
+Street of Caen, another that of Limoges, while the Drapery and Spicery
+stalls were held by the monks of St. Swithun, who proved themselves
+energetic traders at the great annual fair, which lasted until modern
+times, and was removed in due course from St. Giles's Hill into the
+city. Dean Kitchin writes: "As the city grew stronger and the fair
+weaker, it slid down St. Giles's Hill and entered the town, where its
+noisy ghost still holds revel once a year".
+
+At the present day St. Giles's Hill is a pleasant spot from which to
+view the venerable city. Down the valley, by the Itchen, rises the
+Hospital and Church of St. Cross, a picturesque and peaceful group of
+buildings viewed from any position, but particularly so taken in
+conjunction with the ancient city and the fertile valley threaded by
+numberless small streams. On the left side of the valley is St.
+Catherine's Hill, a bold and outstanding spur crowned with a small belt
+of trees surrounded by a circular earthwork. At one time a chapel
+dedicated to St. Catherine capped the hill, and slight traces of the
+building may yet be seen. Here is the interesting maze, said to have
+been made by a Winchester College boy who was obliged to remain behind
+during the holidays, but probably of a different origin, some
+antiquaries holding the opinion that it is of great antiquity, and in
+some way connected with ecclesiastical penance.
+
+Looking citywards, one can see the towers of many churches rising above
+the gables and chimneys of the houses. Near at hand are St. Peter's,
+Cheeshill, and St. John's, the former an interesting little building
+with a mixture of styles, among which the Norman and Early English
+predominate, the windows being of a later period. The bell turret is
+situated at the south-east corner of the building, which, as a whole,
+gives a singular impression, due to the fact that it is nearly as broad
+as it is long. St. John's Church is the most interesting in the city,
+containing as it does a fine rood screen, with the rood-loft stairs
+still existing in a turret of fifteenth-century date. Other features of
+interest are the fourteenth-century Decorated screens that enclose the
+chancel on each side, and an arched recess at the east end of the north
+wall, containing an altar-tomb with quatrefoil panels supporting shields
+on which are the symbols of the Passion. The tomb itself bears neither
+inscription nor date.
+
+Here also are a set of carved bench ends, a Perpendicular pulpit, and an
+octagonal font.
+
+Unfortunately, most of the other churches of Winchester have been either
+rebuilt or so altered as to retain very little of their original
+architecture. The Church of St. Maurice, rebuilt in 1841, has saved a
+Norman doorway, fragments of a fine Decorated screen which now serve for
+altar rails, and an ancient chest.
+
+Like most of our cathedral cities, Winchester is well supplied with
+charitable institutions, although the best known of them all, the famous
+Hospital of St. Cross, is situated a mile away from the city proper. The
+Hospital of St. John, within Winchester, is one of the oldest
+foundations of the kind in the country, and a portion of the vaulted
+kitchen remaining in the building may not unreasonably be supposed to
+have formed part of the almshouse thought to have been founded on the
+spot in A.D. 935 by St. Brinstan. The chapel connected with the charity
+dates from the time of the third Henry, and contains a piece of
+fourteenth-century carving depicting the nimbed head of the Saviour,
+which is now built into a wall. Considerable doubt exists as to the
+original founder and early re-founders of this hospital, and little is
+known concerning it until the time of Edward II, when John Devenish
+re-founded it. At that period it seems to have been for the "sole relief
+of sick and lame soldiers, poor pilgrims, and necessitated wayfaring
+men, to have their lodging and diet there for one night, or longer, as
+their inability to travel may require". Many influential citizens left
+money or property to this charity. In 1400 Mark le Faire, Mayor of
+Winchester, bequeathed to it several houses, including the "great inn
+called the George", and the "house under the penthouse where Mr. Hodgson
+died". Richard Devenish, in the time of Henry VI, left a sum of money to
+provide for a more frequent performance of divine service in the chapel;
+but in the reign of Henry VIII these and other funds were confiscated,
+although the building itself was subsequently restored to the
+Corporation.
+
+[Illustration: BEAUFORT TOWER AND AMBULATORY, ST. CROSS]
+
+After the Reformation, Ralph Lambe re-founded the charity for six
+poor and needy persons, who were to have six separate homes or chambers
+within the hospital, each furnished with locks and keys. Each person was
+to receive ten shillings quarterly, with a gown value ten shillings, and
+ten shillings' worth of coal yearly. On the election of a new mayor each
+was to receive two shillings, and any funds remaining were to be divided
+among the inmates at the discretion of the mayor and aldermen of the
+city. This institution is still a flourishing one, and the original
+hall, standing to the west of the chapel, is let as a public
+dining-hall.
+
+Another old charity was that of St. Mary Magdalene, founded for lepers,
+in 1173-88, by Bishop Toclyve, the inmates being known locally as "the
+infirm people upon the hill", now Maun Hill. In early times lepers were
+required to give up the whole of their personal goods, and one of the
+questions asked by the official visitor to the Hospital of St. Mary
+Magdalene was whether the goods of the deceased inmates went to the
+works of the church after the settlement of debts. The funds of this
+foundation were much tampered with at various times, and it lost some of
+its property at the Reformation. One of its benefactors left to it four
+flitches of bacon yearly, this being an important article of diet. The
+original plan of the hospital was quadrangular: on two sides were the
+inmates' rooms and the chapel, the remaining sides being occupied by the
+Master's House and the common hall. The buildings were much damaged in
+the time of Charles I by the troops stationed there, and again in the
+reign of Charles II by the Dutch prisoners confined within the hospital.
+The chapel was pulled down in 1788, and the materials were used for
+building purposes, when the fine Early Norman doorway was used in the
+Roman Catholic Church in St. Peter Street, where it may still be seen.
+This was the west doorway of the ancient hospital chapel. The site is
+now occupied by a hospital of another character, the isolation hospital,
+but the old "lepers' well" can still be seen. The charity survives to
+some extent in six cottages in Water Lane, built in 1788, wherein are
+housed four men and four women.
+
+In Symond's Street stands the picturesque "Christes Hospital", founded in
+1586 by James Symonds. It is generally called the "Bluecoat" Hospital,
+from the distinctive dress worn by the inmates. A scholastic institution
+was attached to this charity for the education of four poor boys, chosen
+by the mayor and corporation, who also elected their teacher. The latter
+was not to be, in the terms of the founder, either a "Scotchman, an
+Irishman, a Welshman, a foreigner, or a North-countryman", lest their
+pronunciation of the English language should suffer.
+
+From among the fertile meadows bordering the banks of the Itchen to the
+south of Winchester rises the stately grey pile of St. Cross, standing
+where it has stood for over seven and a half centuries, a witness alike
+to the munificence of its founders, de Blois and Beaufort, and to the
+skill of the mediaeval builders.
+
+A good road leads from the city to the pleasing suburb in which the
+hospital is situated, though a far pleasanter way is by one of the field
+paths through the meadows.
+
+Henry de Blois became bishop when only twenty-eight years old, and in
+1136 he founded the hospital for the entire support of "thirteen poor
+men, feeble and so reduced in strength that they can hardly or with
+difficulty support themselves without another's aid"; and they were to
+be supplied with "garments and beds suitable to their infirmities, good
+wheate bread daily of the weight of 5 marks, and three dishes at dinner
+and one at supper, suitable to the day, and drink of good stuff".
+
+Besides this, he provided for a hundred poor men to be supplied daily
+with dinner. Bishop Toclyve, de Blois's successor in the see, added to
+the charity the feeding of yet another hundred poor men daily; and it
+has been said, on somewhat slight evidence, that the poorer scholars of
+Winchester College dined without fee in the "Hundred Men's Hall".
+
+In 1137 the management of the institution was given over to the Knights
+of St. John of Jerusalem; the cross still worn as a badge by the
+Brethren is a link with the ancient Order, being the cross _potent_, or
+Jerusalem cross, which was an insignia of the Kingdom of Jerusalem
+established by the Crusaders.
+
+[Illustration: ST. CROSS FROM THE MEADOWS]
+
+Shortly after the death of de Blois a dispute arose between the
+Hospitallers and the bishop, but after the lapse of many years the
+management was restored to the latter, then Peter de Rupibus, who
+appointed Alan de Soke as Master. In 1446, Cardinal Beaufort, Wykeham's
+successor in the see, added a new foundation to St. Cross, to be called
+"The Almshouse of Noble Poverty". De Blois's charity had been intended
+to benefit the very needy; this of Beaufort's was designed for those who
+had fallen upon evil days after a life of ease and comfort. There were
+to be two priests, thirty-five brethren, and three sisters. The brethren
+were to be of gentle birth, or old servants of the founder. The scheme,
+however, was never completed, owing to the Wars of the Roses
+intervening, with the result that the estates with which he had intended
+to endow his almshouse were claimed by the Crown on the accession of the
+House of York. So it came about that in 1486 Bishop Waynflete was
+compelled to reduce the recipients of Beaufort's charity to one priest
+and two brethren. Fortunately, St. Cross was spared at the
+Reformation, and its endowments were not confiscated. The Vicar-General
+reported that there were "certain things requiring reformation", and
+that sturdy beggars were to be "driven away with staves"; also that the
+Lord's Prayer and the Creed were to be taught in English, and that
+relics and images were not to be brought out for the devotion of
+pilgrims. In 1632 Archbishop Laud caused a strict enquiry to be made,
+with the result that the Master, Dr. Lewis, reported that the fabric was
+in a state of great dilapidation. This Master lost his post through his
+loyalty to Church and King, and John Lisle, the regicide, became Master
+of the Hospital until Cromwell made him a peer, when his place was
+filled by John Cooke, the Solicitor-General who drew up the indictment
+against Charles I. Both these regicides met with misfortune, for Cooke
+was executed and Lisle assassinated, so that at the Restoration Dr.
+Lewis was restored to the mastership. Between the years 1848 and 1853,
+chancery suits, costing a large sum of money, resulted in an entirely
+new scheme being drawn up, under which the two charities were treated as
+separate foundations under one head. The differences of qualification
+between the two sets of Brethren are carefully laid down, and a portion
+of the income is used for the maintenance of fifty out-pensioners, the
+modern equivalent for the "Hundred Poor Men" of mediaeval days. The
+distinctive dresses of the Brethren are the same with regard to colour
+and cut as those worn in the time of Henry VI, those worn by the
+recipients of Beaufort's charity being of red cloth, with the badge, a
+cardinal's hat and tassels on a silver plate, worn on the left breast.
+The Brethren of the older institution, founded by de Blois, wear black
+gowns, with the silver cross _potent_ pinned on the left breast. On the
+death of a Brother the cross is placed on a red velvet cushion and laid
+on his breast in the coffin; but before burial the cross is removed and
+fastened by the Master on the breast of the Brother elected in place of
+the deceased.
+
+The Hospital buildings consist of an outer courtyard and gateway, to the
+right of which are the kitchens, and on the left the old brewhouse and
+remains of some of the earlier buildings. Immediately facing us is the
+tower gateway, thoroughly restored, if not built originally, by Cardinal
+Beaufort, under the groined archway of which is the porter's lodge,
+where the "Wayfarers' Dole" is still distributed to all who apply at the
+hatchway, an interesting and almost sole survival of the mediaeval
+custom by which food and drink were offered to passers-by. The daily
+dole at the present day consists of two gallons of ale and two loaves of
+bread, divided into thirty-two portions. The apartment over the archway
+is the Founder's room, wherein are stored all the ancient documents
+relating to the foundation. Beaufort's arms appear in one of the
+spandrels above the gateway arch, the corresponding spandrel exhibiting
+the ancient regal arms of England. On this side of the entrance are
+three niches, one of which contains a figure of the cardinal in a
+kneeling posture. The vacant niche in the south front once held a statue
+of the Virgin, which fell to the ground more than a century ago, and
+nearly killed one of the Brethren in its descent.
+
+Passing through this noble gateway, which, somehow or other, does not
+look as old as we know it to be, we enter the great quadrangle, around
+which the various buildings are grouped. On the eastern side is the
+Infirmary, with the Ambulatory beneath it, a long, low cloister of
+sixteenth-century date, which extends along the whole side to the
+church. In one of the rooms above, a window opens into the church, where
+there may once have been a gallery to enable the infirm to hear the
+services. In 1763 Bishop Hoadley granted a license to the Master to pull
+down the cloister and use the materials for other purposes, but
+fortunately this was never done. On the opposite side of the quadrangle
+are the houses of the Brethren. Each dwelling consists of two rooms and
+a pantry, and has a garden attached.
+
+The Brethren's Hall stands on the north side of the quadrangle, and is
+a portion only of the old "Hundred Mennes Hall"; but enough is left to
+enable one to form a good idea of the original apartment, which measured
+36 feet by 24 feet, until a portion was cut off to provide rooms for the
+Master, who is now lodged in a modern dwelling outside the gates. At the
+east end of the hall is a table where the officials sat, those for the
+Brethren being ranged along the sides. Some black-leather jacks,
+candlesticks, salt-cellars, pewter dishes, and a dinner bell, all dating
+from Beaufort's time, are still carefully preserved. At the opposite end
+of the hall is a screen with the minstrels' gallery above, whence, on
+high days and holidays, the Brethren were enlivened with music during
+their feastings. The chief festivals of the year were All Saints' Day,
+Christmas Day, New Year's Day, Twelfth Day, and Candlemas Day, on which
+occasions the Brethren had "extraordinary commons, and on the eve of
+which days they had a fire of charcoal in the Common Hall, and one jack
+of six quarts and one pint of beer extraordinary, to drink together by
+the fire. And on the said feast-day they had a fire at dinner, and
+another at supper in the said hall, and they had a sirloin of beef
+roasted, weighing forty-six pounds and a half, and three large
+mince-pies, and plum broth, and three joints of mutton for their supper,
+and six quarts and one pint of beer extraordinary at dinner, and six
+quarts and one pint of beer after dinner, by the fireside; six quarts
+and a pint at supper, and the like after supper." During Lent, each
+brother had eight shillings paid to him instead of commons, and on Palm
+Sunday the Brethren had a "green fish, of the value of three shillings
+and fourpence, and their pot of milk pottage with three pounds of rice
+boiled in it, and three pies with twenty-four herrings baked in them,
+and six quarts and one pint of beer extraordinary". On Good Fridays they
+had at dinner "in their pot of beer a cast of bread sliced, and three
+pounds of honey, boiled together, which they call honey sop". Beneath
+the hall is a fine vaulted cellar, of ample proportions, a worthy
+resting-place for the stock of St. Cross ale.
+
+[Illustration: THE BRETHREN'S HALL, ST. CROSS]
+
+But, interesting as are all these portions of the Hospital of St. Cross,
+it is the church which has the greatest attraction for architect and
+antiquary alike, for it contains good examples of every style. From
+Romanesque, through Norman and Early English, to Later Decorated, and to
+Transition Norman, the church is considered to be the best example in
+existence. This building, unfinished after nearly two hundred years, was
+roofed with lead, in place of the thatch which originally covered it, by
+William of Edyndon, the famous Wiltshireman who became Master of St.
+Cross in the fourteenth century, and who restored the fabric from the
+ruinous state in which he found it to a condition of beauty and
+strength. The windows of the clerestory were erected by him; he
+re-roofed the "Hundred Menne's Hall", and built a new chamber for the
+Master.
+
+On entering the church, through the north porch, one is struck by its
+loftiness and dignity, the vaulting throughout being of stone, while
+almost every ornamental feature of the Norman style can be seen.
+Proceeding to the western end of the church, and looking down the nave,
+the gradual development of its architecture can be well seen. The east
+end is Norman, the bay next the transepts Transition Norman, while the
+west end is Early English. The windows vary from Norman and Transition
+Norman to Early English, while those of the clerestory are Decorated.
+Mention must be made of the fine stone screens and tabernacle-work on
+either side of the altar, the altar slab of Purbeck marble, the
+triforium of intersecting arches in the choir, and the roof pendants.
+The western portion of the church was built during the mastership of
+Peter de Sancto Mario, and his fine canopied tomb is a striking object
+on the north side of the nave. Interesting, too, are the beautiful
+fourteenth-century tiles, some bearing the appropriate motto "Have
+Mynde"; and a very human note is struck in the mason's marks, still to
+be seen in various parts of the building, especially around the
+staircase door in the south transept. What these signs actually mean is
+unknown, but some authorities, notably Leader Scott in her work on
+_Cathedral Builders_, trace them through the Comacine Guild to the Roman
+_Collegia_.
+
+In the south-east corner of the south transept, on the exterior of the
+church, is a "triple-arch", which is thought to have been a doorway, and
+may have led to the "clerken-house", the original habitation of the
+seven choristers and their master, but which was pulled down by de
+Cloune, Master of St. Cross in the fourteenth century, who also allowed
+other parts of the fabric to fall into a state of great dilapidation.
+Here also, on the south side of the quadrangle, stood the original
+houses of Beaufort's foundation, which were not pulled down until 1789.
+
+No groups of buildings are in their way more charming or more
+impregnated with human associations than the famous episcopal foundation
+of St. Cross--an asylum of peace and rest, comfort and repose, to those
+who find shelter within its ancient walls, and a standing monument to
+the memory of the pious Henry de Blois and the princely churchman,
+Cardinal Beaufort. Winchester, like many an English city, would be shorn
+of much of its interest were this benevolent institution to be removed.
+The general air of peace and quietude, the grass-bordered walks, the
+stately church, all contribute to convey an appeal which is almost
+sacred in its simple eloquence. In the words of one who loved it well:
+"No one can pass its threshold without feeling himself landed, as it
+were, in another age. The ancient features of the building, the noble
+gateway, the quadrangle, the common refectory, the cloister, and, rising
+above all, the lofty and massive pile of the venerable church, the
+uniform garb and reverend mien of the aged brethren, the common
+provision for their declining years, the dole at the gatehouse, all lead
+back our thoughts to days when men gave their best to God's honour, and
+looked on what was done to His poor as done to Himself, and were as
+lavish of architectural beauty on what modern habits might deem a
+receptacle for beggars, as on the noblest of royal palaces. It seems a
+place where no worldly thought, no pride, or passion, or irreverence
+could enter; a spot where, as a modern writer has beautifully expressed
+it, a good man, might he make his choice, would wish to die."
+
+The country around this beautiful city by the Itchen is full of quiet
+charm, for life's ever-changing drama has but one and the same
+background. The actors come and go, but the stage remains much the same,
+and the devotions, the meditations, and the acts of men who lived
+centuries ago were set in the amphitheatre of the same green hills, and
+took place beside the same winding river as those we gaze upon to-day.
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL]
+
+Literature, too, has worthy names here in Izaak Walton and Jane Austen,
+both of whom lie buried in the cathedral; while the house at Winchester
+in which the author of _Persuasion_ lived, for a brief period before
+her death, stands beyond the college gate. Above the door is a wooden
+tablet recording that here Jane Austen spent her last days, dying July
+18, 1817. She had previously resided at Chawton for some eight years,
+but her house in the village is now a Workmen's Club. At the same time,
+Chawton is a pretty little spot, watered by land springs, known locally
+as "lavants"; while some few miles away is Farrington, where Gilbert
+White, of "Selborne" fame, was curate.
+
+Other literary associations of the Winchester country are those
+furnished by Hursley, where John Keble was vicar; by Otterbourne, the
+home for many years of Charlotte Yonge; and by Eversley, where
+Winchester's immortal son, Charles Kingsley, lies buried.
+
+Each succeeding visit to Winchester can only strengthen one's love for
+the city, and one's reverence for the Cathedral in its midst. Our
+pilgrimage of Winchester the beautiful is over.
+
+PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN
+
+_At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland_
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Winchester, by Sidney Heath
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