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diff --git a/15706-h/15706-h.htm b/15706-h/15706-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5982dba --- /dev/null +++ b/15706-h/15706-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,2332 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content= + "text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"/> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Winchester, by Sidney Heath. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + .solid {border-style: solid; + padding-left: 1em; + padding-right: 1em; + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .center {text-align: center;} + .right {text-align: right;} + .left {text-align: left;} + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem br {display: none;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem div {display: block; margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + + ul li { padding-top: .5em ; } + ul { list-style-type: none; } + + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> + +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Winchester, by Sidney Heath + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Winchester + +Author: Sidney Heath + +Release Date: April 25, 2005 [EBook #15706] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WINCHESTER *** + + + + +Produced by Ted Garvin, Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<h1>WINCHESTER</h1> + +<p class="center"><a name="image001.jpg" id="image001.jpg"></a><img src="images/image001.jpg" width='406' height='600' alt="THE CLOSE GATE" /></p> + +<h4>THE CLOSE GATE</h4> + +<hr /> + +<h1>WINCHESTER</h1> + + +<h2>Described by Sidney Heath</h2> + +<h2>Pictured by E.W. Haslehust</h2> + + +<p class="center"> +<img src="images/title.png" +alt="Title Image" title="" /> +</p> +<h3>BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED</h3> + +<h4>LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY</h4> + +<h4>1911</h4> + +<div class='solid'> + +<h2>Beautiful England</h2> + +<p class='center'><i>Volumes Ready</i></p> + +<table border='0' cellspacing='20' cellpadding='0' summary='advert'> + <tr> + <td>OXFORD</td> + <td>THE HEART OF WESSEX</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>THE ENGLISH LAKES</td> + <td>THE PEAK DISTRICT</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>CANTERBURY</td> + <td>THE CORNISH RIVIERA</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>SHAKESPEARE-LAND</td> + <td>DICKENS-LAND</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>THE THAMES</td> + <td>WINCHESTER</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>WINDSOR CASTLE</td> + <td>THE ISLE OF WIGHT</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>CAMBRIDGE</td> + <td>CHESTER AND THE DEE</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>NORWICH AND THE BROADS</td> + <td>YORK</td> + </tr> + +</table> + +<hr /> +<p class='center'><i>Uniform with this Series</i></p> + +<h2>Beautiful Ireland</h2> + +<table border='0' cellspacing='20' cellpadding='0' summary='advert'> + <tr> + <td>LEINSTER</td> + <td>MUNSTER</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>ULSTER</td> + <td>CONNAUGHT</td> + </tr> + +</table> + +</div> + +<h3>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h3> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image001.jpg">The Close Gate</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image002.jpg">The City Bridge</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image003.jpg">Winchester Cathedral from the Deanery Gardens</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image004.jpg">Wykeham's Chantry</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image005.jpg">The Butter Cross</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image006.jpg">Entrance to the Deanery</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image007.jpg">Winchester College: The Outer Gateway from "Arcadia"</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image008.jpg">The Cloisters, Winchester College</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image009.jpg">Ruins of Wolvesey Castle</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image010.jpg">Beaufort Tower and Ambulatory, St. Cross</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image011.jpg">St. Cross from the Meadows</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image012.jpg">The Brethren's Hall, St. Cross</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#image013.jpg">Plan of Winchester Cathedral</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<hr /> + +<p class="center"> +<img src="images/pg5.png" +alt="Winchester" title="Winchester" /> +</p> + +<h2>WINCHESTER</h2> + +<p>Few of our English cities are more strikingly +situated than the once royal city of Winchester, +which lies on the slopes and along the bed of a +chalk valley watered by the River Itchen. The greater +part of the present city is situated on the right bank +of the river, while the best general view of it is justly +considered to be that obtained by looking across +the Vale of Chilcomb, from the road to Portsmouth. +Of the Itchen valley, with its rich meadows and +tranquil stream, William Cobbett was an enthusiastic +admirer. "There are few spots in England", he +exclaims, "more fertile, or more pleasant, none, I +believe, more healthy. The fertility of this vale and +of the surrounding country is best proved by the +fact that, besides the town of Alresford, and that of +Southampton, there are seventeen villages, each having +its parish church, upon its borders. When we consider +these things, we are not surprised that a spot +situated about halfway down this vale should have +been chosen for the building of a city, or that that +city should have been for a great number of years +the place of residence for the kings of England."</p> + +<p>To-day the beautiful river winds in and out of the +ancient streets, and among the meadow lands, much +as it did when Cobbett penned his <i>Rural Rides</i>, +although many charming examples of domestic architecture, +which then graced what was probably the most +attractive High Street in England, have been demolished +or restored beyond recognition. As it flows +through the city proper, the river is divided up into +a number of small streams abounding in trout; but +after a brief course these rivulets unite just below +the city, from whence the waterway is said to be +navigable all the way to Southampton. The bridge +at the foot of the High Street marks the former limit +of the navigability of the river, and is the reputed +site of the legend concerning St. Swithun and the +old woman to whom the saint restored her eggs.</p> + +<p>Before the advent of the railway, that great destroyer +of our ancient waterways, the Itchen was +crowded with barges making their way from the +maritime port to the inland city; for, like so many +of our old British settlements, the site of Winchester +was determined by the natural conditions of the +land which could be utilized for the purposes of defence. +Although every lock on the Itchen is now +in ruins or choked by weeds, and the last of its fleet +of brown-sailed barges is derelict, this is essentially +a city whose origin goes back to the days when +those who, coming cautiously up from Southampton +Water, reached at length the practical part of the +valley, where they built their stronghold under the +shelter of the downs, yet within easy reach of the +sea. It was by means of barges that much of the +stone was brought for the building of the numerous +churches and monastic buildings. This was brought +from the Binstead Quarries in the Isle of Wight, +from the Purbeck Quarries in Dorset, and possibly +from Portland as well.</p> + +<p>There is ample evidence that Winchester was a +British city (Caer-Gwent), and the Venta Belgarum +of Roman days, when it was connected by roads +with the other Roman cities of Andover, Silchester, +Porchester, and Salisbury. With the taking of the +town by the Saxons in 495 it became known as +Wintanceastre, and here, after the final subjection +of the Britons, the capital of Wessex was established. +If the claim of Canterbury to be the "Mother City" +of the Anglo-Saxon race be granted, few will deny +to Winchester the honour of being her eldest and +her fairest daughter. A royal city was this when +Birinus, the apostle of Wessex, came hither in 634, +on his way to the Oxfordshire Dorchester, to baptize +the King of the West Saxons; and in 679 the episcopal +see was established, a cathedral built, and a monastic +house attached to it. It was from Wintanceastre +that Egbert sent forth the decree which gave the +name of Anglia to his kingdom; and here, by the +tranquil waters of the Itchen, Alfred (with his friend, +adviser, and tutor, St. Swithun), Athelstan, and Canute +held their Courts, and directed their policies.</p> + +<p>It was during the reign of Athelstan that the +redoubtable Guy, Earl of Warwick, returning to England +in the garb of a palmer from a pilgrimage to +the Holy Land, found the Danes besieging Winchester +in great force, and King Athelstan unable to find a +champion willing to meet the Danish giant, Colbrand, +in order to decide the issue by single combat. The +Earl, retaining his disguise as a palmer, begged the +king to let him appear as the English champion.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="image002.jpg" id="image002.jpg"></a><img src="images/image002.jpg" width='407' height='600' alt="THE CITY BRIDGE" /></p> + +<h4>THE CITY BRIDGE</h4> + +<p>This singular combat, which was to decide the +fate of the city, commenced by Guy breaking his +spear on the giant's shield, and the Dane cutting the +head off the Earl's horse. Guy then fought on foot, +and, beating the club out of his opponent's hand, cut +off his arm. So the duel waged until night, when +the Dane, faint from loss of blood, fell to the ground, +and his head was cut off by the English champion. +Having settled the affair to the honour of his country +and his own satisfaction, the Earl made himself +known to the King, under an oath of secrecy, and +returned thanks in the cathedral for his victory. +He then retired to a hermitage beside the Avon, +and passed the remainder of his life in the cave +which still bears his name, and probably contains his +bones.</p> + +<p>Several modern antiquaries are very sceptical about +the whole story, and labour hard to prove that Guy +was a mythical figure, and his deeds nothing but +legendary lore. There is always some truth in these +old legends, in spite of the frills and embellishments +added by the later chroniclers, and the history of our +land would be poor reading indeed if we banished +the romantic legends merely because they are not +confirmed by such dry-as-dust evidence as alone will +satisfy a certain section of scientific compilers, whose +minds can perceive neither truth nor beauty underlying +ancient legends and traditions. The fact that +they cannot be proved to have happened is more +than half their charm, and our garden of romance, +with its beautiful flowers of chivalry, is infinitely +better to live with than the dry and parched fields +given over to the cultivation of nothing but facts.</p> + +<p>The defeat of the Danish giant is said to have +been achieved in a meadow to the north of the city, +named from that occurrence "Danemark Mead"; and +we are told also that the Dane's sword was to be +seen in the Cathedral treasury down to the reign of +James I. Be this as it may, we do know that in the +eighth year of Edward I a writ of right was brought +by the King against the Abbot of Hyde, to recover +land usurped in the north suburb of the city, called +"Denemarche", and judgment was given for the +crown.</p> + +<p>The appearance of the city in Saxon days has been +described thus by Dean Kitchin: "The three Minsters, +which filled up the south-eastern corner of the +city, were for long the finest group of churches and +dwellings in all England. Wolvesey Palace, at once +the school, the court of justice, and the royal dwelling +place, formed the bulwark against the dreaded invasions +of the Dane; inwards from Wolvesey precincts came +the strong enclosure of St. Swithun's Convent, a second +fortress, which protected the church, and behind both, +sheltered by their strong walls and by the river and +the marshlands to the north, were the growing buildings +of the Nuns' Minster, and the new Minster. And +up the rising towards the west, on either side of the +ancient Roman road from the eastward gate of the +city, the houses of the citizens began to cluster into +a street, with here and there a stone-built dwelling, +and the rest made of that 'wattle and dab' construction, +of which from time to time examples are still +laid bare in the city."</p> + +<p>Although many historical persons flit across the +scene throughout the centuries, the personal associations +of Winchester are dominated by the outstanding +figures of Alfred, St. Swithun, and the great clerical +craftsman, William of Wykeham, the builder of much +of the cathedral, and the founder of St. Mary's College, +Winchester, and New College, Oxford—the former of +which, although of later foundation, was intended as +a stepping-stone for the latter.</p> + +<p>With the Norman Conquest, and the rapid rise of +Westminster, the days of Winchester as the seat of +government were numbered, although it was much +favoured by the early Norman kings, possibly owing +to its proximity to such hunting grounds as the New +Forest Cranborne Chase (where King John's hunting +lodge still stands), and the Royal Warren of +Purbeck.</p> + +<p>William I had his great palace near the cathedral, +and it was to Winchester that the body of William +Rufus was brought on a cart, after his ill-fated death +in the New Forest.</p> + +<p>Then the Domesday Book—if not compiled at +Winchester—was kept there for many years, when +it was called "The Book of Winton". In the seventh +year of Henry II a charge appears in the Pipe Roll +for conveying the "arca", in which the book was kept, +from Winchester to London.</p> + +<p>There is naturally much in the life-history of St. +Swithun that is incapable of proof. He was possibly +born in the neighbourhood of Winchester about the +year 800. He became a monk of the old abbey, and +rose to be head of the community, when he gained +the favour of King Egbert, who entrusted him with +the education of his son Ethelwolf. There is an +authentic charter granted by Egbert in 838, and +bearing the signatures of Elmstan, <i>episcopus</i>, and +Swithunus, <i>diaconus</i>. On the death of Elmstan, in +852, Swithun was appointed his successor in the see, +when, in addition to erecting several churches, and +building a stone bridge over the Itchen, he appears +to have enlarged and beautified the Saxon cathedral +built by Kynewalch when Winchester became the +seat of a bishopric in 679. The site of this Saxon +church is considered to have been a little to the +north of the present cathedral, which is a Norman +building commenced by Walkelin a few years after +the Conquest.</p> + +<p>St. Swithun is best known to-day in his capacity +of weather prophet. In his humility he is said to +have desired to be buried outside the church, so +that the foot of the passer-by, and the rainwater from +the eaves, could fall upon his grave; and here his +body lay for more than a century. When his remains +were eventually translated, a chapel was erected over +the site of his grave at the north-east corner of the +church, and faint traces of this building may still +be seen. King Edgar provided the richly jewelled +shrine into which the relics of the saint were translated +by St. Ethelwold, on July 15, 980, when the +relics of Birinus were enshrined at the same time, +although these had already been translated from +Dorchester to Winchester by Bishop Hedda as early +as the seventh century. The shrine attracted an +immense number of pilgrims until that of Becket +at Canterbury rose into prominence. The skull of +St. Swithun is said to have been taken to Canterbury +by St. Elphege in the eleventh century, and +an arm of this patron saint of Winchester was +one of the most treasured possessions of Peterborough. +What remained of these much-disturbed +relics were re-translated by Bishop Walkelin from +the old to the new cathedral, but in 1241 the shrine +was broken by the vane of the tower falling through +the roof.</p> + +<p>At the Reformation the shrine was destroyed, as +is recorded in the commissioners' letter, dated September +21, 1538:—</p> + +<blockquote><p>"About three o'clock this Saturday morning, we made an end +of the shrine here at Winchester. There was no gold, nor ring, +nor true stone about it, but all great counterfeits; but the silver +alone will amount to 2000 marks."</p></blockquote> + +<p>The popular tradition regarding St. Swithun's Day, +July 15, is to the effect that, as it rains or is fair +on this day, the ensuing forty days will be either +wet or dry.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"St. Swithun's Day, if thou dost rain,</div> +<div>For forty days it will remain:</div> +<div>St. Swithun's Day, if thou be fair,</div> +<div>For forty days 't will rain nae mair."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The tradition is said to be due to the saintly request +being disregarded, with the result that, when his remains +were about to be translated, a heavy rain burst +forth, and continued without ceasing for the forty succeeding +days. This was interpreted as a divine warning, +so that, instead of disturbing the saintly bones, +a chapel was erected over them. As a matter of +fact, Professor Earle and other authorities assure us +that the legend is fictitious, and that the translation +was attended by the utmost éclat and success, and +blessed with fine weather.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="image003.jpg" id="image003.jpg"></a><img src="images/image003.jpg" width='600' height='406' alt="WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL FROM THE DEANERY GARDENS" /></p> + +<h4>WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL FROM THE DEANERY GARDENS</h4> + +<p>Foreign pilgrims coming from Normandy and Brittany, +on their way to the shrine of St. Swithun, or to +that of St. Thomas of Canterbury, would land, many of +them, at Southampton, and journey to Winchester, +there to await other bands of pilgrims bound for the +great Kentish shrine. This was the route taken by +Henry II when he did penance before the tomb of the +murdered Becket, in July, 1174. Although clearly seen +in the wold of Surrey and the weald of Kent at the +present time, it must be confessed that but faint traces +of the Pilgrims' Way remain in Hampshire, although +early chroniclers speak of an old road that led direct +from Winchester to Canterbury. The great concourse +of pilgrims to St. Swithun's shrine caused Bishop Lucy +to enlarge much of the church, and in the reign of +the first Edward the building still known as the +Strangers' Hall was erected by the monks of St. +Swithun for the poorer class of pilgrims, who here +found food and shelter for the night. On their departure +they repaired to the doors of the Prior's lodging—the +three beautiful arches of which now form the +entrance to the Deanery—where they were given alms +and fragments of food to sustain them on their journey.</p> + +<p>The associations of Alfred with this ancient Wessex +capital are many and various. He founded the famous +Abbey of Hyde, situated without the city gates, known +for long as the New Minster, and first removed from +its original site near the cathedral in the twelfth century. +That Alfred's remains were laid to rest somewhere +within, or just without, the walls is beyond +question, although the exact spot has not yet been +definitely located. When the Benedictine monks of +Hyde obtained a charter from Henry I in 1110, giving +them leave to erect a new convent and church in the +green meadows outside the north gate, they are said +to have taken to their new home the wonder-working +shrine of St. Josse, the silver cross given by Canute, +and the bones of Alfred.</p> + +<p>At the Reformation, Thomas Wriothesley wrote to +Cromwell saying:—</p> + +<blockquote><p>"We intend both at Hyde and St. Mary to sweep away all +the rotten bones that be called relics; which we may not omit, +lest it be thought we came more for the treasure than for the +avoiding of th' abomination of idolatry".</p></blockquote> + +<p>So the resting-place of the noblest of English +kings remains unknown; but a passing antiquary is +said to have carried off a stone marked with the +words, "ÆLFRED REX, DCCCLXXXI", and this +stone may still be seen at Corby Castle in Cumberland.</p> + +<p>Of Hyde Abbey nothing but an old gateway near +St. Bartholomew's Church, and some slight fragments +of wall, remain; but a considerable portion was standing +until the ruins were pulled down to provide the +site for a new Bridewell, which has vanished in its +turn. The property has now come into the hands +of the Corporation, and scientific excavations have +been commenced. Strong hopes are entertained that +Alfred's tomb may be found, although the iconoclasts +of the Reformation and the Magistrates of later +days have made the task a difficult, if not an impossible +one. In 1901 Alfred's thousandth anniversary +was celebrated at Winchester, and on September 20 +of that year Lord Rosebery unveiled Hamo Thorneycroft's +magnificent bronze statue, standing in the +Broadway, and bearing on its granite pedestal the +single word, eloquent in its simplicity:—</p> + +<p class='center'>AELFRED.</p> + +<p>Interesting and important as are the associations +of Alfred and St. Swithun with this ancient capital +of Wessex, the <i>genius loci</i> is William of Wykeham, +one of the most remarkable men the world has ever +produced. The more we study his life and character +the more we are amazed at the versatile nature of +his splendid gifts. Born, like Wolsey, the only other +clerical architect with whom he can be compared, +of humble parents, in the sleepy little village of Wickham, +in the autumn of 1324, he early attracted the +attention of Sir John Scures, the lord of the manor +of Wickham, and Constable of Winchester Castle. +By Sir John's influence he became a scholar at the +Priory School, the "Great Grammar School of Winchester", +then situated just outside the west wall of +the priory enclosure. Taught by the brethren of +St. Swithun's, he was eventually recommended to +Bishop Edington, who appears to have appreciated +the great talent for architecture shown by young +Wykeham. Edington himself was no mean builder, +and he had already begun to rebuild the west front +of the cathedral, and to transform the nave from +the Norman to the Perpendicular style, a transformation +that was to be completed by Wykeham when +he succeeded his old master in the episcopacy.</p> + +<p>In Wykeham's twenty-third year Edward III came +to Winchester, and he, having heard of the clever +young architect, wished to test his skill in the warfare +then being waged against Scotland and France, +and particularly in the new fortifications of Calais. +On taking service with the King, plain William Wykeham +became Sir William de Wykeham, and as Surveyor +of Works he superintended such buildings as +St. Stephen's Chapel, Westminster, and the castles of +Dover and Queensborough. In 1356 he was in charge +of Windsor Castle, which, as his birthplace, Edward +wished to beautify by many additions. It has been +said that the Round Tower Wykeham built at Windsor +made the fortune of its designer. We now find Wykeham +Warden of all the royal castles, and sub-dean +of the church of St. Martins-le-Grand, on the site of +which is the General Post Office; and as a public +notary he was present at the signing of the Treaty +of Bretigny.</p> + +<p>Possibly owing to the dearth of clergy caused by +the Black Death, Wykeham, after the laying-on of +hands by his old master, Bishop Edington, became +an acolyte in the December of 1361, a sub-deacon +in the March following, and priest in the June of 1362. +A few years later, when Edington was laid to rest +within his cathedral, a sharp controversy arose between +the King and the Pope as to who should succeed. +The differences, which need not be discussed here, +being eventually settled to the satisfaction of both +parties, Wykeham was offered the vacant see, when +he said to the King:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Sire, I am unworthy, but wherein I am wanting myself, that +will I supply by a brood of more scholars than all the prelates +of England ever showed".</p></blockquote> + +<p>And how worthily he fulfilled his promise is a matter +of history.</p> + +<p>To quote the authors of <i>Historic Winchester</i>:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"There was a great stir in the old city when the day of +Wykeham's enthronement arrived. It was the 9th of July, and +the town would be looking especially beautiful in its bower of +trees; an outrider had announced the bishop before he entered +the city, probably by the north gate, and either here or at the +entrance to the close he was met by the Archdeacon of Northampton, +William Athey by name, who was commissioned to enthrone +him: having saluted, the Archdeacon alighted from his +palfrey, which according to the custom at that time was with +all its trappings taken possession of by this ecclesiastic.... The +bishop's robing most probably took place at the priory close by, +from whence the procession, forming in the cloisters under the +direction of Hugo de Basyng, prior of St. Swithun's, would pass to +the west door, where it would be joined by the heads of the other +monasteries in and near Winchester—Thomas de Pechy, Abbot of +Hyde, holding highest rank amongst them. Next would follow +long lines of monks clad in their robes of brown, black, white, +or grey, according to their order, and then many a layman, +gathered in from the country round to honour both Church and +State on this occasion. The great procession, gorgeous with +embroidered cope and many a rich vestment, with episcopal +staff and crozier both of prior and abbot carried aloft, must +have formed an imposing spectacle as it filed up the long nave +of the cathedral, thronged, doubtless, to overflowing by many +citizens—for unusual interest would be evinced by Winchester +in this enthronement of one long known to them, now Chancellor +of England and certainly, next to the King and Archbishop, the +greatest man in the country."</p></blockquote> + +<p>As bishop, Wykeham found plenty to do, apart from +his ecclesiastical duties, in repairing his various palaces, +and in housing the predecessors of his Winchester +scholars in a house on St. Giles's Hill, until such time +as he could give them fitting buildings and a chapel +of their own. But before Wykeham could see his +schemes take an architectural form, he was to suffer +the loss of royal favour owing to the death of the +Black Prince and the rise into power of his enemy, +John of Gaunt. The bishop was charged with the +misappropriation of a small sum of money, and, judgment +being given against him, the temporalities of +the see of Winchester were seized, and he was forbidden +to come within twenty miles of the Court. +He retired to Waverley Abbey, of which some picturesque +ruins remain, near Farnham; and although on +the King's jubilee pardon was granted to all offenders, +a special exception was made in the case of "Sire +William de Wykeham".</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="image004.jpg" id="image004.jpg"></a><img src="images/image004.jpg" width='408' height='600' alt="WYKEHAM'S CHANTRY" /></p> + +<h4>WYKEHAM'S CHANTRY</h4> + +<p>This was more than the heads of the Church +could stand, especially as the original charge was +an unjust one; so at the ensuing meeting of Convocation, +Courtenay, then Bishop of London, declared +boldly that unless their favourite bishop was reinstated +in office, no money would be forthcoming from +the clergy. In less than a month the pressing need +of funds caused the King to send a messenger to +Waverley and beg Wykeham to return to his house +at Southwark. This was the first step, which, however, +did not mean an immediate return to the temporalities, +as these had been settled on the youthful +heir apparent, Richard; but the people took up Wykeham's +cause, and on June 18, 1377, in the presence +of the little Richard, his uncle, and the King's council, +Wykeham promised to fit out three galleys for sea, +in return for the temporalities of Winchester. Two +days later Edward III died, forsaken by his mistress, +Alice Perrers, and estranged from the one man who +had served him so long and so faithfully.</p> + +<p>The architectural genius of Wykeham as exhibited +at St. Mary's College and the cathedral at Winchester, +and at New College, Oxford, originally founded as "St. +Maries' College of Winchester at Oxenford", marks +a very decided epoch in the development of English +architecture. His works, in an architectural style +found nowhere but in England, are the outcome of +a mind free from triviality, and full of common sense. +His buildings are admirably suited to their purpose, +and at first sight they appear to be so simple in design +that it has been suggested that Wykeham cared +more for the constructive than the artistic side of +building. It is true that he considered sound construction +and good proportions of greater importance +than a profusion of detail, yet such ornament as is +found in his work is highly effective and most carefully +studied. To this bishop-architect we undoubtedly +owe much of the dignity and simplicity which mark +the Early Perpendicular buildings, qualities which make +the style such a contrast to the exuberance of that +which immediately preceded it, or the over-elaboration +of the Tudor buildings that followed it.</p> + +<p>With few exceptions, practically the whole of +Wykeham's work, both here and at Oxford, remains +much as he left it; so that, good bishop, wise administrator, +generous founder, and pioneer educationist +though he was, it is mainly as a munificent builder +and architectural genius that his fame has lived in +the past, and will continue to live in the future.</p> + +<p>Here for the moment we must leave the great +prelate of Winchester and begin our perambulation +of the city that received him as a youth, welcomed +him as a bishop, mourned him when dead, and that +still bears on the long nave of its cathedral, and on +its famous college, the impress of his manly, robust, +and essentially English mind.</p> + +<p>By way of a footpath leading from the London +and South-Western Railway station, the upper part +of the famous High Street can be reached, although +the thoroughfare now possesses but few features +of interest until we arrive at the old West Gate, a +reminder, if such were needed, that Winchester was +a heavily fortified and strongly walled city. On the +right is Castle Hill, the site of the ancient castle +wherein Stigand, Archbishop of Canterbury, was imprisoned +and Matilda besieged, and from whose courtyard +William Rufus set out on the hunting expedition +to the New Forest which was attended by such +fatal consequences. All that now remains of this +stronghold is the fine old hall built by Henry III.</p> + +<p>For some time this apartment was used as the +County Hall, and here Judge Jeffreys opened his +Bloody Assize before proceeding to Dorchester, Exeter, +and Taunton. Alice Lisle was the widow of John +Lisle, who had been Master of St. Cross Hospital, +and member for Winchester in the Long Parliament. +Although the men of Hampshire had taken no part +in Monmouth's Rebellion, many of the fugitives had +fled thither, and two of them, John Hickes, a Non-conformist +divine, and Richard Nelthorpe, a lawyer, +found refuge in the house of Alice Lisle, where they +were eventually discovered. At her trial, Alice Lisle +stated briefly that, although she knew Hickes to be +in trouble, she was quite ignorant of the fact that +he had participated in the rebellion. When the jury +said they doubted if the charge had been made out, +Jeffreys was furious, and after another long consultation +they returned a verdict of "Guilty". The +next morning the judge pronounced sentence, and +ordered the prisoner to be <i>burned alive</i> that same +afternoon. When remonstrances had poured in from +all quarters, Jeffreys consented to the execution being +postponed for five days; and the sentence was eventually +commuted from burning to hanging. So the first +victim of Monmouth's ill-fated rebellion was hanged +on a scaffold in the market-place of Winchester.</p> + +<p>A striking object hanging at one end of the hall +is the top of the reputed Round Table of King Arthur, +painted in radiating white and green sections, with +a portrait of the famous king inset, crowned and +robed, and the Tudor rose in the centre, while around +the circumference are the names of the knights in +old black-letter characters. Doubtful though it is +that the table is the actual one that figures in the +Arthurian legends, yet it is certainly of great antiquity, +and has been frequently referred to by more than +one writer of mediaeval days. It has been conjectured +that it may be nothing more than the wheel of fortune +which Henry III commanded to be made for the castle. +In later years another palace was started here by +Charles II, the only portion that was completed being +now used as barracks.</p> + +<p>Beyond the West Gate is an obelisk, set up in +commemoration of a visitation of the Plague in 1669, +when the country people brought their produce and +left it outside the gate to be taken in by the city +dwellers, who deposited the money for the goods in +bowls of vinegar, whence it was abstracted by pincers, +to avoid infection. The stone on which the exchanges +were made is incorporated in the base of the obelisk.</p> + +<p>The West Gate is the only one that remains of the +principal entrances to the city, as King's Gate, with the +little church of St. Swithun perched on top, was of +secondary importance. This West Gate escaped the +fate that has overtaken so many of our old city gates +owing to its having been used for some time as a smoking +room for the adjacent hotel. This apartment above +the crown of the gateway arch is, like that over the +West Gate of Canterbury, used for the purposes of +a museum, wherein are deposited such interesting +relics as the Winchester bushel, cloth measures, and +ancient instruments of punishment. At one time the +room was used as a prison, and the walls are covered +with names or marks made by those who were incarcerated +here.</p> + +<p>The gate is of fourteenth-century date, the two +panels with armorial bearings seen on the western +side of the archway being later insertions. Through +the gateway a delightful view is obtained of the picturesque +High Street, with many a high-pitched gable +rising above the masses of irregular architecture; +while an ancient clock on a wooden bracket juts +out from the old Queen Anne Guildhall, which has +a statue of Her Majesty over the entrance, the Curfew +Tower rising on one side of the building. A new +Guildhall of greater architectural pretensions has been +erected in the Broadway, the original one being now +used as a shop.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="image005.jpg" id="image005.jpg"></a><img src="images/image005.jpg" width='410' height='600' alt="THE BUTTER CROSS" /></p> + +<h4>THE BUTTER CROSS</h4> + +<p>From the West Gate the High Street slopes down +to the Itchen. On the right stands the old Butter +Cross, in rather a cramped position. Two reasons +have been given for its name: one, that during Lent, +those wishing to eat butter could do so by consuming +it by the cross; the other, and more probable, explanation +is that here came farmers wishing to dispose +of their butter, which they exposed for sale on +the steps of the cross. The structure is of fifteenth-century +date, but has been much restored, the only +original figure on it being that of St. Amphibalus. Just +beside the cross is the interesting little opening that +leads into the Close, and in which is the entrance +to St. Lawrence Church, of which nothing is visible +from this point but the doorway, and the tower rising +above the surrounding houses. This church has been +said to be the Mother Church of the diocese of Winchester, +an idea that may have owed its origin to +the fact that before proceeding to the Cathedral to +be enthroned the bishops designate enter this ancient +church to robe and "ring themselves in". Only the +other day, May 6, 1911, Dr. Talbot followed this old +custom, and the people listened eagerly for the number +of rings, as these are supposed to denote the number +of years the bishop will be at the head of the diocese. +It may be of interest to chronicle that Dr. Talbot rang +nine times.</p> + +<p>Near the church at one time was an open space +called the Square, where were situated the Pillory and +Whipping Post. The palace of William I is said to +have occupied this site, and St. Lawrence's Church +may possibly have been the private chapel of the +royal residence. A fragment of Norman masonry +gives a certain amount of probability to the supposition, +while at the beginning of last century some +workmen excavating in Market Street came across +the foundations of an ancient tower, of great thickness +and strength. The present arched and narrow entrance +from High Street leads to the fine avenue of +limes that forms the principal approach to the west +front of the Cathedral, begun by Edington <i>circa</i> 1360, +the severe simplicity of which has been much criticized, +Ruskin assailing it furiously in the <i>Stones of Venice</i>. +On the apex of the gable is a canopied niche containing +a statue of Wykeham.</p> + +<p>The present edifice is thought to stand approximately +on the site of the earlier Saxon church +restored by Ethelwold in 980, in which Queen +Emma underwent the "fiery ordeal" by walking +blindfold and barefooted over nine red-hot plough-shares, +thus proving her innocence of the charges +brought against her, and furnishing her accusers with +an example of what female chastity is able to accomplish. +The main portion of the structure as seen +to-day was begun by Bishop Walkelin about 1079, +and completed some fourteen years later. It is the +longest of English churches, measuring externally +566 feet, and internally 562½ feet, being a few +feet longer than St. Alban's, which has the same +plan; although we must remember that when the +nave of Winchester terminated at the west in two +large towers the whole mass was 40 feet longer than +at present.</p> + +<p>The vista of the whole block of masonry, with its +stumpy tower and heavily buttressed walls, conveys +the idea of immense strength rather than of gracefulness; +while its situation at the bottom of a hill, +and near the bank of the river, is one of great charm.</p> + +<p>It is when the nave is entered that the full beauty +and vast proportions of the Norman church are revealed, +for this is in essence a Norman building encased +with Perpendicular details and additions. As +Wykeham's alterations were merely added to the +original piers, the stateliness of the whole remains. +Full credit, of course, must be given to Wykeham +for the wonderful skill he showed in this work of +transformation, and in removing the heavy triforium, +although the grandeur of the nave as a whole is due +to the combined work of Walkelin and Wykeham. +This alteration of styles in the nave was begun +by Edington, continued by Wykeham, and completed +by his successors in the see—Cardinal Beaufort and +Bishop Waynflete—who built the stone vaulting of the +roof. The tower at the intersection of the transepts +is the second of its kind, the first, built by Walkelin, +having fallen in 1107, owing, says tradition, to the +wicked Red King having been buried beneath it. Of +its rebuilding there are no records.</p> + +<p>So many detailed architectural histories of the +building have appeared that its principal features +must be familiar to every lover of our national architecture. +There are, however, one or two features +about this cathedral that should be noted. Apart +from its great length, which is greater than any +church in the world, with the exception of St. Peter's +at Rome, it is remarkable for its parclose screens, with +the mortuary chests upon them; and for the beauty and +number of its chantries, in which it is richer than any +other English cathedral. They are said to have been +saved from destruction during the Civil War by the +Parliamentary colonel, Fiennes, an old Wykehamist; +and certain historians describe the dramatic incident of +the colonel standing with drawn sword to protect the +chantry of the founder of his Alma Mater from the +iconoclastic tendencies of his troopers. The chantries +number seven, and were built as chapels by bishops for +their last resting-places. Within these chantries are +the tombs of Edington, Wykeham, Waynflete, Beaufort, +Gardiner, Langton, and Fox, all of whom were bishops +of the diocese. Fox's chantry was carefully restored +by Corpus Christi College, Oxford; and that of Waynflete +by Magdalen College, as a mark of reverence and +esteem for the memory of their respective founders.</p> + +<p>The first to be seen on entering the nave from +the west is that of Wykeham, whose faith in the +solidity of Norman building was so great that he +did not hesitate to cut away more than a third of +the two nave pillars between which it is placed. +Within the chapel, said to have been built on the +site of an altar to the Virgin, is the effigy of the bishop-builder, +with flesh and robes coloured "proper", as the +heralds say; and at his feet are the figures of his +three favourite monks, to whom he left an endowment +for the celebration of three masses daily in his chantry, +while each was to receive one penny a day from the +prior. The effigy lies on an altar tomb, in episcopal +attire, the head-pillow supported by two angels. Five +bays farther on is Edington's chantry, but without +effigy, as also are those of Fox and Langton. Of +the seven chantries those of Fox and Beaufort are +usually considered the most beautiful.</p> + +<p>The proud Cardinal Beaufort, founder of the "Almshouse +of Noble Poverty" at St. Cross, is represented +by Shakespeare as dying in despair:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div>"Lord Cardinal, if thou think'st on Heaven's bliss</div> +<div>Hold up thy hand: make signal of thy hope.</div> +<div>He dies, and makes no sign!"</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Dean Kitchin writes: "One cannot look at his +effigy, as it lies in his stately chantry, without noting +the powerful and selfish characteristics of his face, +and especially the nose, large, curved, and money-loving. +The sums Beaufort had at his disposal were +so large that he was the Rothschild of his day. More +than once he lent his royal masters enough money +to carry them through their expeditions."</p> + +<p>The mortuary chests are certainly among the most +interesting things possessed by any English cathedral. +They are supposed to contain the bones of Kings +Eadulph, Kinegils, Kenulf, Egbert, Canute, Rufus, +Edmund, Edred, Queen Emma, and Bishops Wina +and Alwyn. They no doubt got much mixed up +when removed from the crypt by Henry de Blois, and +again when the chests were broken open by the +Parliamentarians, so that a detailed identification has +been made impossible. It is now generally acknowledged +that the bones of Rufus are in one of these +chests, and that the so-called Rufus tomb in the +retro-choir is the burial place of some great ecclesiastic. +Such at any rate is the opinion of Dean +Kitchin, who has done so much to elucidate the past +history of the city and its Cathedral.</p> + +<p>When one of these boxes was taken recently out +of its enclosing chest and examined, it was found to +have a roof something like a low gable, which was +decorated with painting about a century later than +the time of de Blois. On the outside appeared the +words in Latin: "Here are together the bones of King +Kinegils and of Ethelwolf". Four of the Italian +chests that held the inner boxes were the gift of +Bishop Fox. The other chests have revealed five +complete sets of human bones, and among the remains +in another were the bones of a female, possibly +those of Queen Emma.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="image006.jpg" id="image006.jpg"></a><img src="images/image006.jpg" width='411' height='600' alt="ENTRANCE TO THE DEANERY" /></p> + +<h4>ENTRANCE TO THE DEANERY</h4> + +<p>The visitor will not fail to have pointed out to +him by the well-informed vergers the innumerable +features of interest, such as the Lady Chapel, the +retro-choir, the Holy Hole where the relics were +kept, the black oak stalls of the choir, the fine pulpit +given by Prior Silkstede, and the magnificent screen +begun by Beaufort and completed by Fox. The +monuments, apart from those contained in the chantries, +are many, and include one surmounted by a +beautifully wrought cross-legged effigy, which has +not yet been identified. There are memorials or +tombs of James I and Charles I, by le Suer, who +wrought the statue of the latter at Charing Cross; +Dr. Warton, Professor of Poetry at Oxford, and headmaster +of Winchester; Jane Austen; and William +Unwin, the intimate friend of Cowper. A flat stone, +with an inscription by his brother-in-law, Ken, marks +the resting-place of Izaak Walton, "whose book", +a modern writer tells us, "makes the reader forget +for the time the cruelty of his sport".</p> + +<p>The curiously carved font, whereon are depicted +symbolical figures and incidents from the legendary +life of St. Nicholas of Myra, bears much similarity to +three others found in Hampshire—at St. Michaels', +Southampton; East Meon; and St. Mary Bourne. +They are all of the same era, and possibly the work +of the same hand, being among the most interesting +of our Norman fonts. The material of which they +are made has never been settled, some authorities +defining it as Tournai marble, others as basalt, and +yet others as nothing more than slate.</p> + +<p>The roll of bishops is a remarkable one, and the +see has had eleven who were also Lord Chancellors, +the last being Wolsey in 1529.</p> + +<p>As we have seen, Winchester continued in favour +with the reigning houses long after it had ceased to +be a royal residence. Here Henry I was married to +the Saxon Matilda, and here in the closing years of +his life the aged Wykeham married Henry IV and +Joan of Navarre; and here, too, came Philip of Spain +and Henry VIII's sad daughter, Mary of England, to +be wedded before the high altar, the chair on which +the royal bride sat being still shown to visitors.</p> + +<p>For the architectural student the plan of the +cathedral is not the least interesting feature of the +building, for although it has an ambulatory which is +semicircular internally, the plan is in other respects +rather exceptional. It is what architects call a periapsidal +plan, meaning that its eastern termination +contains a processional aisle or ambulatory, designed +mainly for the purpose of allowing a procession to +pass round the high altar without entering the presbytery. +In the crypt of Winchester Cathedral the +plan of the early Norman church may be seen <i>sui +generis</i>. A rather exceptional feature is that the +eastern ambulatory is semicircular within but rectangular +without, although the long chapel that projects +from this ambulatory has an apsidal, not a rectangular, +termination.</p> + +<p>To the receptive mind all our ancient cathedrals, +and a few of our modern ones, possess a subtle atmosphere +of their own, indescribable but plainly felt, +both within and without their walls. In such an +atmosphere we lose sight of the Winchester of to-day. +It becomes ancient, ecclesiastical, historical, +learned, and romantic. Here we return in imagination +to the scenes of the Middle Ages, when love was +attested by chivalrous deeds of arms done in honour +of bright eyes, and poetry sounded its lyre in praise +of him who had been most devoted to his Church, +most faithful to his mistress, and most loyal to his +king. As a whole, this Cathedral of Winchester is +a vast building, simple almost to a fault, yet one that +possesses a solemn repose unspeakably restful to mind +and spirit—a sense of undisturbed harmony and refined +yet massive simplicity. Towards eventide the shadows +of the turrets and pinnacles creep, day by day, over +the surrounding bands of greensward, their cool greys +advancing inch by inch until they reach the spacious +pavements, whereon they cast the symbols of our +Christian faith in ruddy trefoil-headed slants of glory.</p> + +<p>Whatever else is omitted from the history of the +Cathedral, mention must be made of the valiant efforts +that have been and are still being made to preserve +the stability of the structure. A few years ago the +east end showed signs of subsidence, and ominous +cracks appeared in the north transept, a part of the +old Norman church. An examination of the fabric +proved that herculean tasks were essential to save +this portion of the edifice. It was agreed that only +by extensive underpinning could the work be accomplished. +It has been very costly, and funds are most +urgently needed to complete the preservation, not +only of the eastern end, but of the whole Cathedral. +The cradle of woodwork erected to give temporary +support to the eastern superstructure cost over a +thousand pounds to fix, and up to date many thousands +of pounds have been spent on the work. It +was not until these temporary supports had been +fixed and excavations begun that the magnitude of +the task was fully revealed. The Cathedral was found +to have been built on an old "water-bed" having a +foundation of peat, the distance between the ground +level and the firm gravel beneath the peat being 27 +feet. The only hope of saving the east end was to +remove the peat and fill in the spaces with concrete +and cement. With the removal of the peat, however, +there was so great an influx of water that pumping +was of no avail. Two of the best divers in the kingdom +were then procured, and by working on their backs +and sides in 15 feet of muddy water they succeeded +in laying the concrete bed. Owing to the same cause, +the remainder of the structure will, sooner or later, +have to be treated in the same way, and the thorough +restoration of the west front cannot be long postponed. +The difficulty of the work is realized when we consider +that it takes a whole month to underpin 4 feet of +foundation. Owing to the cramped space and the +darkness three weeks are spent in excavation; after +which the divers require a week to place the concrete +and cement in position. That so national a heritage +will be saved, for the delight of our own and the instruction +of future generations, must be the wish of +all true lovers of the great building achievements of +the past.</p> + +<p>The cathedral precincts are in excellent keeping +with the repose and beauty of the building to which +they form the court, and are full of historical memories. +The palace of the Conqueror reached from Great +Minster Street to Market Street, from High Street +to the Square; and eastwards rose the "New Minster", +and the Nuns' Abbey of St. Mary.</p> + +<p>To-day the greater part of the Close, with the +Deanery and the various canonical residences, lies +on the south side. Only a few slight fragments +remain of the cloisters, the destruction of which +could not have been considered possible by Wykeham. +They were taken down by Bishop Horne in +the reign of Elizabeth. The short row of Norman +arches seen from the Close belonged to the old Chapter +House, which is said to have been pulled down for the +sake of its lead. The Deanery was the ancient house +of the Priors, of which it contains many interesting +memorials. Here are the Great Hall, now subdivided, +and the Hospitium, used as stables. The Deanery +entrance has three pointed arches, beneath which, as +we have stated, the poor pilgrims and other wayfarers +received food and alms. On his numerous visits to +Winchester, Charles II used to lodge at the Deanery, +until Prebendary Ken (afterwards Bishop of Bath and +Wells) refused to allow Nell Gwynne to enter the +house, with the result that she had to content herself +with an inferior residence outside the precincts.</p> + +<p>Of Wykeham's "College of St. Marie", or New +College, Oxford, this is not the place to speak, especially +as it has already been dealt with in the +"Oxford" volume of this "Beautiful England" series. +His other "College of St. Mary", or, as it is commonly +known, Winchester College, has a history extending +far beyond that of most of our great public schools; +and Winchester was celebrated for its educational +institutions in Saxon days.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="image007.jpg" id="image007.jpg"></a><img src="images/image007.jpg" width='389' height='600' alt="WINCHESTER COLLEGE: THE OUTER GATEWAY FROM ARCADIA" /></p> + +<h4>WINCHESTER COLLEGE: THE OUTER GATEWAY FROM "ARCADIA"</h4> + +<p>Wykeham's idea in founding these two colleges +was one for which he had no precedent before him, +so that his design was to a large extent in the nature +of an experiment. His idea, of course, was to enable +those who proceeded from the Winchester to the +Oxford College to receive a systematic and continuous +education. Where Wykeham led, others were +not long in following. Two of his successors in the +see of Winchester, Waynflete and Fox, gave to Oxford +the beautiful colleges of Magdalen and Corpus +Christi respectively. Archbishop Chichele, one of +Wykeham's first scholars, built St. Bernard's College, +now St. John Baptist's, which he gave to the Cistercians +before its completion; and later in life he +founded the College of All Souls, while in his native +village of Higham Ferrers, Northants, he built and +endowed a school, bede-house, and church, which are +among some of the loveliest pieces of building we +possess. Henry VI made himself intimately acquainted +with the works of Wykeham, and copied +them for his two colleges of Eton, and King's College, +Cambridge. Until Wykeham's time, schools had been +under or connected with monastic houses; now they +were distinct foundations, with priests still as masters, +but priests secular and not religious. Wykeham was, +indeed, the pioneer of the public-school system, of +which, with all its shortcomings, England is so justly +proud.</p> + +<p>Each of the bishop's colleges took about six years +in building, and that at Oxford was the first to be +finished. It must have been a proud day for Winchester +when, on March 28, 1393, the "seventy faithful +boys", headed by their master, came in procession +from St. Giles's Hill, where they had been temporarily +housed, and, all chanting psalms, entered into possession +of their fair college.</p> + +<p>The buildings have been but little altered since +their founder's day, and extend now, as then, on the +south side of the Close, and along the bank of the +Itchen. They consist mainly of two quadrangles, in +the first of which, entered from College Street by +a gateway, are the Warden's house and other offices. +Here is the brewhouse, quite unaltered; but the +Warden's house has absorbed the old bakehouse, +slaughterhouse, and butcher's room. Over the second +archway are figures of the Virgin, with Gabriel on her +right, and Wykeham kneeling on her left. Here was +a room for the Warden, from which he could see all +who entered or left the college; and here also is the +site of the old penthouse under which the scholars +used to perform their ablutions, and which they called +"Moab". The old Society comprised the Warden, +ten Fellows, three Chaplains, sixteen Queristers, and +seventy scholars. The boys, the chaplains, and the +choristers lived within the inner quadrangle, the +northern side of which is formed by the chapel and +the refectory. The original chapel, with the exception +of the beautiful fan-groining of its roof, was much defaced +in the seventeenth century, but was restored in +the nineteenth, when a new reredos was added. The +refectory remains practically untouched, and has a roof +enriched with some beautiful carved woodwork, the +painted heads of kings and bishops, and some great +mullioned windows. Over the buttery is the audit-room, +hung with ancient and rare tapestries, and +containing a large chest known as Wykeham's money +box. The original schoolroom was in the basement, +and has long been put to other uses. The chantry, +the beautiful cloisters, and the chapel tower were all +built after the founder's death, but he provided a +wooden bell tower, which stood away from the chapel, +so that the main building should not be injured by +the vibration of the bells. The remaining portions +are mostly modern, and the foundation has naturally +been much enlarged since Wykeham's day, the last +addition being the gateway in Kingsgate Street, +erected as a memorial to the many Wykehamists +who fell in the South African War.</p> + +<p>On the wall of a passage adjoining the kitchen is +a singular painting, supposed to be emblematical of a +"trusty servant", compounded of a man, a hog, a deer, +and an ass. The explanatory words beneath it are +attributed to Dr. Christopher Jonson, headmaster from +1560 to 1571.</p> + +<p>With the completion of Winchester College, Wykeham +turned his attention to the Cathedral, although he +was then seventy years of age. He lived to see his munificence +bearing good fruit, and his foundations flourishing +in reputation and usefulness; so that when he +lay down to die, on September 27, 1404, in his palace +of Bishops' Waltham, he could look back to a long life +spent in the service of his Maker. The funeral procession +moved slowly along the ten miles that separated +palace from Cathedral through crowds of people +mourning his loss. At the Cathedral door the prior +met the procession, and the great bishop-builder was +laid to rest in the beautiful chantry he had himself +prepared. Four days before his death he made and +signed his will, in which he bestowed gifts and legacies +with the liberality that was so marked a characteristic +of his life. That crowds of poor would attend his +obsequies he was probably aware, for to each poor +person seeking a bounty he bequeathed fourpence, +"for the love of God and his soul's health". To the +Cathedral, on which he had expended so much of his +genius, he left money for its completion; and bequeathed +to it many precious things, including a +cross of gold in which was a piece of the "Tree +of the Lord". Henry IV was forgiven a debt of five +hundred pounds, and was to have a pair of silver-gilt +basins, ornamented with double roses, which were +probably given to Wykeham by Edward III, as a +special mark of his favour. So we take leave of this +master builder and munificent bishop, whose motto +"Manners makyth man" is known the world over. +The inscription on his tomb tells us of his works, +but Wykeham needs no inscription so long as the +stones of the Cathedral hold together, and his two +fair colleges raise their buttressed walls beside the +waters of the Isis and the Itchen.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="image008.jpg" id="image008.jpg"></a><img src="images/image008.jpg" width='401' height='600' alt="THE CLOISTERS, WINCHESTER COLLEGE" /></p> + +<h4>THE CLOISTERS, WINCHESTER COLLEGE</h4> + +<p>Returning to the Butter Cross, the Piazza adjoining +reminds one of the Butter Walk at Dartmouth, +and the famous "Rows" of Chester. It was used +for many years as a market where the country folk +brought their produce, being then known as the +"Penthouse". The mints established on the site by +Athelstan were noted for the excellence of the coinage +made there. In the Westgate Museum an old leaden +box is shown which was discovered at Beauworth +by a shepherd. It was found to contain some six +thousand silver pennies of the coinage of William I +and Rufus. In addition to its famous mints Winchester +was the chief trading centre of this part of +England during mediaeval days. A great woollen +trade was carried on with Flanders when the city +became one of the "staple" towns, still commemorated +by "Staple Gardens", a narrow lane leading +out of the north side of High Street, where the great +warehouse for the storage of wool once stood. A +little below the Queen Anne Guildhall, but on the +opposite side of the street, is St. John's Hospital; +while another old lane leading off from the main +thoroughfare is Royal Oak Passage, at the junction +of which with the street is the ancient house known +as God-begot House, with some good timberwork +and a fine gable. "Jewry" Street recalls to our +memory the early settlement of the Jews in Winchester, +for the citizens seem to have been more +kindly disposed towards this persecuted race than +those of the majority of English cities at an early +period in their history. Richard of Devizes, in 1189, +called Winchester the "Jerusalem of the Jews", and, +writing of the massacre and plunder of the Jews in +London and other cities, said: "Winchester alone, +the people being prudent and circumspect and the +city always acting mildly, spared its vermin". The +Jews settled in Winchester between the years 1090 +and 1290, landing at Southampton and making their +way up the Itchen until they came in sight of the +old capital of the kingdom. Crossing the river, they +entered the city by the East Gate, and finally chose +as their abiding-place a site near the north walls, +in a thoroughfare then known as "Scowrtenstrete", +Shoemakers' Row. The community soon could boast +of a synagogue, and were the possessors of several +schools. At the bottom of the High Street are the +Abbey Gardens, so called from their being on the site +of an abbey founded by Ealhswith, King Alfred's +queen, in which to spend the years of her widowhood. +The general plan of the gardens has probably +been but little altered since the days when the nuns +paced their shady paths in pious meditation. An +ancient manuscript of prayers, used by the abbess in +the ninth century, is preserved in the British Museum. +Ealhswith's son, Edward the Elder, levied a toll from +all merchandise passing under the City Bridge by +water, and beneath the East Gate by land, for the +better support of the abbey founded by his mother. +Before the bridge stood the East Gate, and crossing +we are in that part of the city known as the +"Soke". In the "Liberty of the Soke" the bishop of +the diocese had his court, presided over by the bailiff +as his deputy. Thus the bishop's jurisdiction was +entirely independent of that of the civic authorities. +Wolvesey was his palace, and within its walls, now +ivy-clad and crumbling to decay, he held his court, +with three tithing men and a constable to assist him. +Here also was his exchequer, and here he imprisoned +those who offended against his laws. All that now +remains of the once celebrated episcopal palace of +Wolvesey—said, with no authority, to have been so +named from the tribute of wolves' heads levied upon +the Welsh by King Edgar—are a few ruined walls, +of sufficient extent to give one an idea of the strength +of the castle in its original state. At Wolvesey King +Alfred brought together the scholars who were to aid +him in writing the "Chronicles of the Time"; and +on the outer walls he hung the bodies of Danish +pirates as a warning to those who made periodical +raids up the valley of the Itchen.</p> + +<p>In the hands of Bishop de Blois the palace became +of great importance, and withstood a siege by David, +King of Scotland, and Robert, Earl of Gloucester. +De Blois was one of those who assisted at the coronation +of Henry II, and pulled down the tower when +the bishop was absent from the diocese without the +royal permission, on a visit to Clugny. Although shorn +of much of its former strength, the palace remained a +fortress until the fortifications of Winchester were +reduced to a heap of ruins by Cromwell.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="image009.jpg" id="image009.jpg"></a><img src="images/image009.jpg" width='400' height='600' alt="RUINS OF WOLVESEY CASTLE" /></p> + +<h4>RUINS OF WOLVESEY CASTLE</h4> + +<p>Beyond the City Bridge rises St. Giles's Hill, named +after Giles, one of those numerous hermit saints who +played so prominent a part in establishing the Christian +faith in these islands. The hill is deeply grooved by a +railway cutting; on it was held for many centuries +a kind of open market or annual fair, which attracted +the wealthy merchants of France, Flanders, and Italy. +The fair generally lasted a fortnight, during which +time all other local business was suspended, the shops +closed, and the mayor handed over the keys of the +city to the bishop, who claimed large fees from the +stall holders. Thirty marks were paid for repairs +needed at the Church of St. Swithun, and similar +sums were demanded by the abbeys. Bishop Walkelin +was granted the tolls of the fair for three days by +William Rufus, his kinsman; but in the time of +Henry III the privilege was extended to sixteen +days. The stalls were arranged in long rows, and +named according to the goods sold thereon, or after +the nationality of the vendors. Thus one row would +be named the Street of Caen, another that of Limoges, +while the Drapery and Spicery stalls were held by the +monks of St. Swithun, who proved themselves energetic +traders at the great annual fair, which lasted +until modern times, and was removed in due course +from St. Giles's Hill into the city. Dean Kitchin +writes: "As the city grew stronger and the fair +weaker, it slid down St. Giles's Hill and entered +the town, where its noisy ghost still holds revel once +a year".</p> + +<p>At the present day St. Giles's Hill is a pleasant spot +from which to view the venerable city. Down the +valley, by the Itchen, rises the Hospital and Church +of St. Cross, a picturesque and peaceful group of +buildings viewed from any position, but particularly +so taken in conjunction with the ancient city and the +fertile valley threaded by numberless small streams. +On the left side of the valley is St. Catherine's Hill, +a bold and outstanding spur crowned with a small +belt of trees surrounded by a circular earthwork. At +one time a chapel dedicated to St. Catherine capped +the hill, and slight traces of the building may yet +be seen. Here is the interesting maze, said to have +been made by a Winchester College boy who was +obliged to remain behind during the holidays, but +probably of a different origin, some antiquaries holding +the opinion that it is of great antiquity, and in +some way connected with ecclesiastical penance.</p> + +<p>Looking citywards, one can see the towers of many +churches rising above the gables and chimneys of the +houses. Near at hand are St. Peter's, Cheeshill, and St. +John's, the former an interesting little building with +a mixture of styles, among which the Norman and +Early English predominate, the windows being of a +later period. The bell turret is situated at the south-east +corner of the building, which, as a whole, gives a +singular impression, due to the fact that it is nearly as +broad as it is long. St. John's Church is the most interesting +in the city, containing as it does a fine rood +screen, with the rood-loft stairs still existing in a +turret of fifteenth-century date. Other features of +interest are the fourteenth-century Decorated screens +that enclose the chancel on each side, and an arched +recess at the east end of the north wall, containing +an altar-tomb with quatrefoil panels supporting shields +on which are the symbols of the Passion. The tomb +itself bears neither inscription nor date.</p> + +<p>Here also are a set of carved bench ends, a Perpendicular +pulpit, and an octagonal font.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately, most of the other churches of Winchester +have been either rebuilt or so altered as to +retain very little of their original architecture. The +Church of St. Maurice, rebuilt in 1841, has saved a +Norman doorway, fragments of a fine Decorated screen +which now serve for altar rails, and an ancient chest.</p> + +<p>Like most of our cathedral cities, Winchester is +well supplied with charitable institutions, although +the best known of them all, the famous Hospital of +St. Cross, is situated a mile away from the city proper. +The Hospital of St. John, within Winchester, is one +of the oldest foundations of the kind in the country, +and a portion of the vaulted kitchen remaining in the +building may not unreasonably be supposed to have +formed part of the almshouse thought to have been +founded on the spot in A.D. 935 by St. Brinstan. The +chapel connected with the charity dates from the time +of the third Henry, and contains a piece of fourteenth-century +carving depicting the nimbed head of the +Saviour, which is now built into a wall. Considerable +doubt exists as to the original founder and early +re-founders of this hospital, and little is known concerning +it until the time of Edward II, when John +Devenish re-founded it. At that period it seems to +have been for the "sole relief of sick and lame soldiers, +poor pilgrims, and necessitated wayfaring men, to have +their lodging and diet there for one night, or longer, +as their inability to travel may require". Many influential +citizens left money or property to this charity. +In 1400 Mark le Faire, Mayor of Winchester, bequeathed +to it several houses, including the "great +inn called the George", and the "house under the +penthouse where Mr. Hodgson died". Richard Devenish, +in the time of Henry VI, left a sum of money +to provide for a more frequent performance of divine +service in the chapel; but in the reign of Henry VIII +these and other funds were confiscated, although the +building itself was subsequently restored to the Corporation.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="image010.jpg" id="image010.jpg"></a><img src="images/image010.jpg" width='600' height='400' alt="BEAUFORT TOWER AND AMBULATORY, ST. CROSS" /></p> + +<h4>BEAUFORT TOWER AND AMBULATORY, ST. CROSS</h4> + +<p>After the Reformation, Ralph Lambe re-founded +the charity for six poor and needy persons, who were +to have six separate homes or chambers within the +hospital, each furnished with locks and keys. Each +person was to receive ten shillings quarterly, with a +gown value ten shillings, and ten shillings' worth of +coal yearly. On the election of a new mayor each +was to receive two shillings, and any funds remaining +were to be divided among the inmates at the discretion +of the mayor and aldermen of the city. This institution +is still a flourishing one, and the original hall, +standing to the west of the chapel, is let as a public +dining-hall.</p> + +<p>Another old charity was that of St. Mary Magdalene, +founded for lepers, in 1173-88, by Bishop +Toclyve, the inmates being known locally as "the +infirm people upon the hill", now Maun Hill. In early +times lepers were required to give up the whole of +their personal goods, and one of the questions asked +by the official visitor to the Hospital of St. Mary +Magdalene was whether the goods of the deceased +inmates went to the works of the church after the +settlement of debts. The funds of this foundation were +much tampered with at various times, and it lost some +of its property at the Reformation. One of its benefactors +left to it four flitches of bacon yearly, this +being an important article of diet. The original plan +of the hospital was quadrangular: on two sides were +the inmates' rooms and the chapel, the remaining sides +being occupied by the Master's House and the common +hall. The buildings were much damaged in the time +of Charles I by the troops stationed there, and again +in the reign of Charles II by the Dutch prisoners confined +within the hospital. The chapel was pulled down +in 1788, and the materials were used for building purposes, +when the fine Early Norman doorway was used +in the Roman Catholic Church in St. Peter Street, +where it may still be seen. This was the west doorway +of the ancient hospital chapel. The site is now +occupied by a hospital of another character, the isolation +hospital, but the old "lepers' well" can still be +seen. The charity survives to some extent in six +cottages in Water Lane, built in 1788, wherein are +housed four men and four women.</p> + +<p>In Symond's Street stands the picturesque "Christes +Hospital", founded in 1586 by James Symonds. It is +generally called the "Bluecoat" Hospital, from the distinctive +dress worn by the inmates. A scholastic institution +was attached to this charity for the education +of four poor boys, chosen by the mayor and corporation, +who also elected their teacher. The latter was +not to be, in the terms of the founder, either a "Scotchman, +an Irishman, a Welshman, a foreigner, or a +North-countryman", lest their pronunciation of the +English language should suffer.</p> + +<p>From among the fertile meadows bordering the +banks of the Itchen to the south of Winchester rises +the stately grey pile of St. Cross, standing where it has +stood for over seven and a half centuries, a witness +alike to the munificence of its founders, de Blois and +Beaufort, and to the skill of the mediaeval builders.</p> + +<p>A good road leads from the city to the pleasing +suburb in which the hospital is situated, though a +far pleasanter way is by one of the field paths +through the meadows.</p> + +<p>Henry de Blois became bishop when only twenty-eight +years old, and in 1136 he founded the hospital +for the entire support of "thirteen poor men, feeble +and so reduced in strength that they can hardly or +with difficulty support themselves without another's +aid"; and they were to be supplied with "garments +and beds suitable to their infirmities, good wheate +bread daily of the weight of 5 marks, and three +dishes at dinner and one at supper, suitable to the +day, and drink of good stuff".</p> + +<p>Besides this, he provided for a hundred poor men +to be supplied daily with dinner. Bishop Toclyve, de +Blois's successor in the see, added to the charity the +feeding of yet another hundred poor men daily; and +it has been said, on somewhat slight evidence, that +the poorer scholars of Winchester College dined without +fee in the "Hundred Men's Hall".</p> + +<p>In 1137 the management of the institution was +given over to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem; +the cross still worn as a badge by the Brethren is a +link with the ancient Order, being the cross <i>potent</i>, or +Jerusalem cross, which was an insignia of the Kingdom +of Jerusalem established by the Crusaders.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="image011.jpg" id="image011.jpg"></a><img src="images/image011.jpg" width='600' height='408' alt="ST. CROSS FROM THE MEADOWS" /></p> + +<h4>ST. CROSS FROM THE MEADOWS</h4> + +<p>Shortly after the death of de Blois a dispute arose +between the Hospitallers and the bishop, but after the +lapse of many years the management was restored to +the latter, then Peter de Rupibus, who appointed Alan +de Soke as Master. In 1446, Cardinal Beaufort, Wykeham's +successor in the see, added a new foundation +to St. Cross, to be called "The Almshouse of Noble +Poverty". De Blois's charity had been intended to +benefit the very needy; this of Beaufort's was designed +for those who had fallen upon evil days after +a life of ease and comfort. There were to be two +priests, thirty-five brethren, and three sisters. The +brethren were to be of gentle birth, or old servants +of the founder. The scheme, however, was never +completed, owing to the Wars of the Roses intervening, +with the result that the estates with which +he had intended to endow his almshouse were claimed +by the Crown on the accession of the House of York. +So it came about that in 1486 Bishop Waynflete was +compelled to reduce the recipients of Beaufort's charity +to one priest and two brethren. Fortunately, St. Cross +was spared at the Reformation, and its endowments +were not confiscated. The Vicar-General reported +that there were "certain things requiring reformation", +and that sturdy beggars were to be "driven away with +staves"; also that the Lord's Prayer and the Creed +were to be taught in English, and that relics and +images were not to be brought out for the devotion +of pilgrims. In 1632 Archbishop Laud caused a strict +enquiry to be made, with the result that the Master, +Dr. Lewis, reported that the fabric was in a state +of great dilapidation. This Master lost his post +through his loyalty to Church and King, and John +Lisle, the regicide, became Master of the Hospital +until Cromwell made him a peer, when his place was +filled by John Cooke, the Solicitor-General who drew +up the indictment against Charles I. Both these regicides +met with misfortune, for Cooke was executed +and Lisle assassinated, so that at the Restoration +Dr. Lewis was restored to the mastership. Between +the years 1848 and 1853, chancery suits, costing a large +sum of money, resulted in an entirely new scheme +being drawn up, under which the two charities were +treated as separate foundations under one head. The +differences of qualification between the two sets of +Brethren are carefully laid down, and a portion of +the income is used for the maintenance of fifty out-pensioners, +the modern equivalent for the "Hundred +Poor Men" of mediaeval days. The distinctive dresses +of the Brethren are the same with regard to colour +and cut as those worn in the time of Henry VI, those +worn by the recipients of Beaufort's charity being of +red cloth, with the badge, a cardinal's hat and tassels +on a silver plate, worn on the left breast. The +Brethren of the older institution, founded by de Blois, +wear black gowns, with the silver cross <i>potent</i> pinned +on the left breast. On the death of a Brother the +cross is placed on a red velvet cushion and laid on +his breast in the coffin; but before burial the cross is +removed and fastened by the Master on the breast +of the Brother elected in place of the deceased.</p> + +<p>The Hospital buildings consist of an outer courtyard +and gateway, to the right of which are the +kitchens, and on the left the old brewhouse and +remains of some of the earlier buildings. Immediately +facing us is the tower gateway, thoroughly +restored, if not built originally, by Cardinal Beaufort, +under the groined archway of which is the +porter's lodge, where the "Wayfarers' Dole" is still +distributed to all who apply at the hatchway, an +interesting and almost sole survival of the mediaeval +custom by which food and drink were offered +to passers-by. The daily dole at the present day +consists of two gallons of ale and two loaves of bread, +divided into thirty-two portions. The apartment over +the archway is the Founder's room, wherein are stored +all the ancient documents relating to the foundation. +Beaufort's arms appear in one of the spandrels above +the gateway arch, the corresponding spandrel exhibiting +the ancient regal arms of England. On this side +of the entrance are three niches, one of which contains +a figure of the cardinal in a kneeling posture. The +vacant niche in the south front once held a statue +of the Virgin, which fell to the ground more than a +century ago, and nearly killed one of the Brethren in +its descent.</p> + +<p>Passing through this noble gateway, which, somehow +or other, does not look as old as we know it +to be, we enter the great quadrangle, around which +the various buildings are grouped. On the eastern +side is the Infirmary, with the Ambulatory beneath it, +a long, low cloister of sixteenth-century date, which +extends along the whole side to the church. In one +of the rooms above, a window opens into the church, +where there may once have been a gallery to enable +the infirm to hear the services. In 1763 Bishop +Hoadley granted a license to the Master to pull +down the cloister and use the materials for other +purposes, but fortunately this was never done. On +the opposite side of the quadrangle are the houses +of the Brethren. Each dwelling consists of two +rooms and a pantry, and has a garden attached.</p> + +<p>The Brethren's Hall stands on the north side of +the quadrangle, and is a portion only of the old "Hundred +Mennes Hall"; but enough is left to enable one +to form a good idea of the original apartment, which +measured 36 feet by 24 feet, until a portion was cut +off to provide rooms for the Master, who is now +lodged in a modern dwelling outside the gates. At +the east end of the hall is a table where the officials +sat, those for the Brethren being ranged along the +sides. Some black-leather jacks, candlesticks, salt-cellars, +pewter dishes, and a dinner bell, all dating +from Beaufort's time, are still carefully preserved. At +the opposite end of the hall is a screen with the +minstrels' gallery above, whence, on high days and +holidays, the Brethren were enlivened with music +during their feastings. The chief festivals of the year +were All Saints' Day, Christmas Day, New Year's Day, +Twelfth Day, and Candlemas Day, on which occasions +the Brethren had "extraordinary commons, and on the +eve of which days they had a fire of charcoal in the +Common Hall, and one jack of six quarts and one +pint of beer extraordinary, to drink together by the +fire. And on the said feast-day they had a fire at +dinner, and another at supper in the said hall, and +they had a sirloin of beef roasted, weighing forty-six +pounds and a half, and three large mince-pies, and +plum broth, and three joints of mutton for their supper, +and six quarts and one pint of beer extraordinary at +dinner, and six quarts and one pint of beer after +dinner, by the fireside; six quarts and a pint at +supper, and the like after supper." During Lent, +each brother had eight shillings paid to him instead +of commons, and on Palm Sunday the Brethren had +a "green fish, of the value of three shillings and fourpence, +and their pot of milk pottage with three pounds +of rice boiled in it, and three pies with twenty-four +herrings baked in them, and six quarts and one pint +of beer extraordinary". On Good Fridays they had +at dinner "in their pot of beer a cast of bread sliced, +and three pounds of honey, boiled together, which they +call honey sop". Beneath the hall is a fine vaulted +cellar, of ample proportions, a worthy resting-place +for the stock of St. Cross ale.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="image012.jpg" id="image012.jpg"></a><img src="images/image012.jpg" width='403' height='600' alt="THE BRETHREN'S HALL, ST. CROSS" /></p> + +<h4>THE BRETHREN'S HALL, ST. CROSS</h4> + +<p>But, interesting as are all these portions of the +Hospital of St. Cross, it is the church which has the +greatest attraction for architect and antiquary alike, +for it contains good examples of every style. From +Romanesque, through Norman and Early English, to +Later Decorated, and to Transition Norman, the church +is considered to be the best example in existence. +This building, unfinished after nearly two hundred +years, was roofed with lead, in place of the thatch +which originally covered it, by William of Edyndon, +the famous Wiltshireman who became Master of St. +Cross in the fourteenth century, and who restored the +fabric from the ruinous state in which he found it +to a condition of beauty and strength. The windows +of the clerestory were erected by him; he re-roofed the +"Hundred Menne's Hall", and built a new chamber +for the Master.</p> + +<p>On entering the church, through the north porch, +one is struck by its loftiness and dignity, the vaulting +throughout being of stone, while almost every ornamental +feature of the Norman style can be seen. Proceeding +to the western end of the church, and looking +down the nave, the gradual development of its architecture +can be well seen. The east end is Norman, +the bay next the transepts Transition Norman, while +the west end is Early English. The windows vary +from Norman and Transition Norman to Early English, +while those of the clerestory are Decorated. Mention +must be made of the fine stone screens and tabernacle-work +on either side of the altar, the altar slab of +Purbeck marble, the triforium of intersecting arches +in the choir, and the roof pendants. The western +portion of the church was built during the mastership +of Peter de Sancto Mario, and his fine canopied tomb +is a striking object on the north side of the nave. +Interesting, too, are the beautiful fourteenth-century +tiles, some bearing the appropriate motto "Have +Mynde"; and a very human note is struck in the +mason's marks, still to be seen in various parts of +the building, especially around the staircase door in +the south transept. What these signs actually mean +is unknown, but some authorities, notably Leader +Scott in her work on <i>Cathedral Builders</i>, trace them +through the Comacine Guild to the Roman <i>Collegia</i>.</p> + +<p>In the south-east corner of the south transept, on +the exterior of the church, is a "triple-arch", which +is thought to have been a doorway, and may have +led to the "clerken-house", the original habitation of +the seven choristers and their master, but which was +pulled down by de Cloune, Master of St. Cross in the +fourteenth century, who also allowed other parts of +the fabric to fall into a state of great dilapidation. +Here also, on the south side of the quadrangle, stood +the original houses of Beaufort's foundation, which +were not pulled down until 1789.</p> + +<p>No groups of buildings are in their way more +charming or more impregnated with human associations +than the famous episcopal foundation of St. Cross—an +asylum of peace and rest, comfort and repose, +to those who find shelter within its ancient walls, and +a standing monument to the memory of the pious +Henry de Blois and the princely churchman, Cardinal +Beaufort. Winchester, like many an English city, +would be shorn of much of its interest were this +benevolent institution to be removed. The general +air of peace and quietude, the grass-bordered walks, +the stately church, all contribute to convey an appeal +which is almost sacred in its simple eloquence. In +the words of one who loved it well: "No one can +pass its threshold without feeling himself landed, as +it were, in another age. The ancient features of the +building, the noble gateway, the quadrangle, the +common refectory, the cloister, and, rising above all, +the lofty and massive pile of the venerable church, the +uniform garb and reverend mien of the aged brethren, +the common provision for their declining years, the +dole at the gatehouse, all lead back our thoughts to +days when men gave their best to God's honour, and +looked on what was done to His poor as done to Himself, +and were as lavish of architectural beauty on what +modern habits might deem a receptacle for beggars, +as on the noblest of royal palaces. It seems a place +where no worldly thought, no pride, or passion, or +irreverence could enter; a spot where, as a modern +writer has beautifully expressed it, a good man, might +he make his choice, would wish to die."</p> + +<p>The country around this beautiful city by the Itchen +is full of quiet charm, for life's ever-changing drama +has but one and the same background. The actors +come and go, but the stage remains much the same, +and the devotions, the meditations, and the acts of men +who lived centuries ago were set in the amphitheatre +of the same green hills, and took place beside the +same winding river as those we gaze upon to-day.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="image013.jpg" id="image013.jpg"></a><img src="images/image013.jpg" width='509' height='600' alt="PLAN OF WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL" /></p> + +<h4>PLAN OF WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL</h4> + +<p>Literature, too, has worthy names here in Izaak +Walton and Jane Austen, both of whom lie buried in +the cathedral; while the house at Winchester in which +the author of <i>Persuasion</i> lived, for a brief period before +her death, stands beyond the college gate. Above +the door is a wooden tablet recording that here Jane +Austen spent her last days, dying July 18, 1817. She +had previously resided at Chawton for some eight +years, but her house in the village is now a Workmen's +Club. At the same time, Chawton is a pretty +little spot, watered by land springs, known locally as +"lavants"; while some few miles away is Farrington, +where Gilbert White, of "Selborne" fame, was curate.</p> + +<p>Other literary associations of the Winchester country +are those furnished by Hursley, where John Keble +was vicar; by Otterbourne, the home for many years +of Charlotte Yonge; and by Eversley, where Winchester's +immortal son, Charles Kingsley, lies buried.</p> + +<p>Each succeeding visit to Winchester can only +strengthen one's love for the city, and one's reverence +for the Cathedral in its midst. Our pilgrimage of +Winchester the beautiful is over.</p> + +<p class='center'>PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN</p> + +<p class='center'><i>At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland</i></p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Winchester, by Sidney Heath + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WINCHESTER *** + +***** This file should be named 15706-h.htm or 15706-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/7/0/15706/ + +Produced by Ted Garvin, Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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