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diff --git a/old/sfclm10.txt b/old/sfclm10.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..43b06e4 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/sfclm10.txt @@ -0,0 +1,14229 @@ +***The Project Gutenberg Etext of The San Francisco Calamity*** +Edited by Charles Morris + + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world, be sure to check +the copyright laws for your country before posting these files!! + +Please take a look at the important information in this header. +We encourage you to keep this file on your own disk, keeping an +electronic path open for the next readers. Do not remove this. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**Etexts Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*These Etexts Prepared By Hundreds of Volunteers and Donations* + +Information on contacting Project Gutenberg to get Etexts, and +further information is included below. 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FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.04.29.93*END* + + + + +This etext was prepared by Donald Lainson, charlie@idirect.com. + + + + + +THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY BY EARTHQUAKE AND FIRE + + +A Complete and Accurate Account of the Fearful Disaster which +Visited the Great City and the Pacific Coast, the Reign of Panic +and Lawlessness, the Plight of 300,000 Homeless People and the +World-wide Rush to the Rescue. + +TOLD BY EYE WITNESSES + +INCLUDING GRAPHIC AND RELIABLE ACCOUNTS OF ALL GREAT EARTHQUAKES +AND VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS IN THE WORLD'S HISTORY, AND SCIENTIFIC +EXPLANATIONS OF THEIR CAUSES. + +EDITED BY + +CHARLES MORRIS, LL. D. + + + + +PREFACE + + +Earthquake and famine, fire and sudden death--these are the +destroyers that men fear when they come singly; but upon the +unhappy people of California they came together, a hideous +quartette, to slay human beings, to blot from existence the wealth +that represented prolonged and strenuous effort, to bring hunger +and speechless misery to three hundred thousand homeless and +terror-stricken people. + +The full measure of the catastrophe can probably never be taken. +The summary cannot be made amid the panic, the confusion, the +removal of ancient landmarks, the complete subversion of the +ordinary machinery of society. When chaos comes, as it did in San +Francisco, and all the channels of familiar life are closed, and +human anguish grows to be intolerable, compilation of statistics is +impossible, even if it were not repugnant to the feelings. And +when order is once more restored, after the lapse of many weeks, +months and perhaps years, the details of the calamity have merged +into one undecipherable mass of misery which defies the analyst and +the historian. It is the purpose of this book faithfully to record +the story of these awful days when years were lived in a moment and +to preserve an accurate chronicle of them, not only for the people +whose hearts yearn in sympathy to-day, but for their posterity. + +Other frightful catastrophes the world has known. The earthquake +which dropped Lisbon into the sea in 1755, and in a moment +swallowed up twenty-five thousand people, was perhaps more awful +than the convulsion which has brought woe to San Francisco. When +Krakatoa Mountain, in the Straits of Sunda, in 1883, split asunder +and poured across the land a mighty wave, in which thirty-six +thousand human beings perished, the results also were more +terrible. + +The whirlwind of fire which consumed St. Pierre, in the Island of +Martinique, and the devastation wrought by Vesuvius a few days +previous to that at San Francisco, need not be used for comparison +with the latter tragedy, but they may be referred to, that we may +recall the fact that this land of ours is not the only one which +has suffered. + +But since the western hemisphere was discovered there has been in +this quarter of the globe no violence of natural forces at all +comparable in destructive fury with that which was manifested upon +the Pacific coast. The only other calamity at all equalling it, or +surpassing it, was the Civil War, and that was the work of the evil +passions of man inciting him to slay his brother, while Nature +would have had him live in peace. + +The earthquake in San Francisco, which crumbled strong buildings as +if they were made of paper, would have been terrible enough; but +afterward came the horror of fire and of imprisoned men and women +burned alive, and now to it was added the suffering of multitudes +from hunger and exposure. + +Public attention is fixed on the great city; but smaller cities had +their days and nights of destruction, horror and misery. Some were +almost destroyed. Others were partly ruined, and beyond their +borders, over a wide area, the trembling of the earth toppled +houses, annihilated property and transformed riches into poverty. +The cost in life can be reckoned. The money loss will never be +computed, for the appraised value of the wrecked property conveys +no notion of the consequences of the almost complete paralysis, for +a time, of the commercial operations by means of which men and +women earn their bread. + +When the weakness and the folly and the sin of men bring woe upon +other men, there are plenty of texts for the preacher and no +scarcity of earnest preachers. But here is a vast and awful +catastrophe that befell from an act of Nature apparently no more +extraordinary than the shrinkage of hot metal in the process of +cooling. The consequences are terrifying in this case because they +involve the habitations of half a million people; but, no doubt, +the process goes on somewhere within the earth almost continuously, +and it no more involves the theory of malignant Nature than that of +an angry God. + +If we contemplate it, possibly we may be helped to a profitable +estimate of our own relative insignificance. We think, with some +notion of our importance, of the thousand million men who live upon +the earth; but they are a mere handful of animate atoms in +comparison with the surface, to say nothing of the solid contents, +of the globe itself. + +We are fond of boasting in this latter day of man's marvelous +success in subduing the forces of Nature; and, while we are in the +midst of exultation over our victories, Nature tumbles the rocks +about somewhere within the bowels of the earth, and we have to +learn the old lesson that our triumphs have not penetrated farther +than to the very outermost rim of the realms of Nature. + +A few weak, almost helpless, creatures, we millions of men stand +upon the deck of a great ship, which goes rolling through space +that is itself incomprehensible, and usually we are so busy with +our paltry ambitions, our transgressions, our righteous labors, our +prides and hopes and entanglements that we forget where we are and +what is our destiny. A direct interposition from a Superior Power, +even if it be hurtful to the body, might be required to persuade us +to stop and consider and take anew our bearings, so that we may +comprehend in some larger degree our precise relations to things. +The wisest men have been the most ready to recognize the +beneficence of the discipline of affliction. If there were no +sorrow, we should be likely to find the school of life +unprofitable. + +For one thing, the school wherein sorrow is a part of the +discipline is that in which is developed human sympathy, one of the +finest and most ennobling manifestations of the Love which is, in +its essence, divine. In human life there is much that is ignoble, +and the race has almost contemptible weakness and insignificance in +comparison with the physical forces of the universe. + +But man is superior to all these forces in his possession of the +power of affection; and in almost the lowest and basest of the race +this power, if latent and half lost, may be found and evoked by the +spectacle of the suffering of a fellow-creature. + +The human family looks on with pity while the homeless and hungry +and impoverished Californians endure pangs. Wherever the news +went, by the swift processes of electricity, there men and women, +some of them, perhaps, hardly knowing where California is, were +sorry and willing and eager to help. There are quarrels within the +family sometimes, when nation wars with nation, and all love seems +to have vanished; but the world is, in truth, akin. "God hath made +of one blood all the nations of the earth," and the blood "tells" +when suffering comes. + +THE PUBLISHERS. + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER I. + +SAN FRANCISCO AND ITS TERRIFIC EARTHQUAKE + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE DEMON OF FIRE INVADES THE STRICKEN CITY + + +CHAPTER III. + +FIGHTING FLAMES WITH DYNAMITE + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE REIGN OF DESTRUCTION AND DEVASTATION + + +CHAPTER V. + +THE PANIC FLIGHT OF A HOMELESS HOST + + +CHAPTER VI. + +FACING FAMINE AND PRAYING FOR RELIEF + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE FRIGHTFUL LOSS OF LIFE AND WEALTH + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +WONDERFUL RECORD OF THRILLING ESCAPES + + +CHAPTER IX. + +DISASTER SPREADS OVER THE GOLDEN STATE + + +CHAPTER X. + +ALL AMERICA AND CANADA TO THE RESCUE + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE SAN FRANCISCO OF THE PAST + + +CHAPTER XII. + +LIFE IN THE METROPOLIS OF THE PACIFIC + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +PLANS TO REBUILD SAN FRANCISCO + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +THE EARTHQUAKE WAVE FELT AROUND THE WORLD + + +CHAPTER XV. + +VESUVIUS DEVASTATES THE REGION OF NAPLES + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +THE GREAT LISBON AND CALABRIAN EARTHQUAKES + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +THE CHARLESTON AND OTHER EARTHQUAKES OF THE UNITED STATES + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +THE VOLCANO AND THE EARTHQUAKE, EARTH'S DEMONS OF DESTRUCTION + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +THE THEORIES OF VOLCANIC AND EARTHQUAKE ACTION + + +CHAPTER XX. + +THE ACTIVE VOLCANOES OF THE EARTH + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +THE FAMOUS VESUVIUS AND THE DESTRUCTION OF POMPEII + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +ERUPTIONS OF VESUVIUS, ETNA AND STROMBOLI + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +SKAPTER JOKULL AND HECLA, THE GREAT ICELANDIC VOLCANOES + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +VOLCANOES OF THE PHILIPPINES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +THE WONDERFUL HAWAIIAN CRATERS AND KILAUEA'S LAKE OF FIRE + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +POPOCATEPETL AND OTHER VOLCANOES OF MEXICO AND CENTRAL AMERICA + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +THE TERRIBLE ERUPTION OF KRAKATOA + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +MONT PELEE AND ITS HARVEST OF DEATH IN 1902 + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +ST. VINCENT ISLAND AND MONT SOUFRIERE IN 1812 + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +SUBMARINE VOLCANOES AND THEIR WORK OF ISLAND-BUILDING + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +MUD VOLCANOES, GEYSERS AND HOT SPRINGS + + + +THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY BY EARTHQUAKE AND FIRE + + +CHAPTER I. + +San Francisco and Its Terrific Earthquake. + + +On the splendid Bay of San Francisco, one of the noblest harbors on +the whole vast range of the Pacific Ocean, long has stood, like a +Queen of the West on its seven hills, the beautiful city of San +Francisco, the youngest and in its own way one of the most +beautiful and attractive of the large cities of the United States. +Born less than sixty years ago, it has grown with the healthy +rapidity of a young giant, outvieing many cities of much earlier +origin, until it has won rank as the eighth city of the United +States, and as the unquestioned metropolis of our far Western +States. + +It is on this great and rich city that the dark demon of +destruction has now descended, as it fell on the next younger of +our cities, Chicago, in 1872. It was the rage of the fire-fiend +that desolated the metropolis of the lakes. Upon the Queen City of +the West the twin terrors of earthquake and conflagration have +descended at once, careening through its thronged streets, its +marts of trade, and its abodes alike of poverty and wealth, and +with the red hand of devastation sweeping one of the noblest +centres of human industry and enterprise from the face of the +earth. It is this story of almost irremediable ruin which it is +our unwelcome duty to chronicle. But before entering upon this +sorrowful task some description of the city that has fallen a prey +to two of the earth's chief agents of destruction must be given. + +San Francisco is built on the end of a peninsula or tongue of land +lying between the Pacific Ocean and the broad San Francisco Bay, a +noble body of inland water extending southward for about forty +miles and with a width varying from six to twelve miles. Northward +this splendid body of water is connected with San Pablo Bay, ten +miles long, and the latter with Suisun Bay, eight miles long, the +whole forming a grand range of navigable waters only surpassed by +the great northern inlet of Puget Sound. The Golden Gate, a +channel five miles long, connects this great harbor with the sea, +the whole giving San Francisco the greatest commercial advantages +to be found on the Pacific coast. + + +THE EARLY DAYS OF SAN FRANCISCO. + + +The original site of the city was a grant made by the King of Spain +of four square leagues of land. Congress afterwards confirmed this +grant. It was an uninviting region, with its two lofty hills and +its various lower ones, a barren expanse of shifting sand dunes +extending from their feet. The population in 1830 was about 200 +souls, about equal to that of Chicago at the same date. It was not +much larger in 1848, when California fell into American hands and +the discovery of gold set in train the famous rush of treasure +seekers to that far land. When 1849 dawned the town contained +about 2,000 people. They had increased to 20,000 before the year +ended. The place, with its steep and barren hills and its sandy +stretches, was not inviting, but its ease of access to the sea and +its sheltered harbor were important features, and people settled +there, making it a depot of mining supplies and a point of +departure for the mines. + +The place grew rapidly and has continued to grow. At first a city +of flimsy frame buildings, it became early a prey to the flames, +fire sweeping through it three times in 1850 and taking toll of the +young city to the value of $7,500,000. These conflagrations swept +away most of the wooden houses, and business men began to build +more substantially of brick, stone and iron. Yet to-day, for +climatic reasons, most of the residences continue to be built of +wood. But the slow-burning redwood of the California hillsides is +used instead of the inflammable pine, the result being that since +1850 the loss by fire in the residence section of the city has been +remarkably small. In 1900 the city contained 50,494 frame and only +3,881 stone and brick buildings, though the tendency to use more +durable materials was then growing rapidly. + +Before describing the terrible calamity which fell upon this +beautiful city on that dread morning of April 18, 1906, some +account of the character of the place is very desirable, that +readers may know what San Francisco was before the rage of +earthquake and fire reduced it to what it is to-day. + + +THE CHARACTER OF THE CITY. + + +The site of the city of San Francisco is very uneven, embracing a +series of hills, of which the highest ones, known as the Twin +Peaks, reach to an elevation of 925 feet, and form the crown of an +amphitheatre of lower altitudes. Several of the latter are covered +with handsome residences, and afford a magnificent view of the +surrounding country, with its bordering bay and ocean, and the +noble Golden Gate channel, a river-like passage from ocean to bay +of five miles in length and one in width. This waterway is very +deep except on the bar at its mouth, where the depth of water is +thirty feet. + +Since its early days the growth of the city has been very rapid. +In 1900 it held 342,782 people, and the census estimate made from +figures of the city directory in 1904 gave it then a population of +485,000, probably a considerable exaggeration. In it are mingled +inhabitants from most of the nations of the earth, and it may claim +the unenviable honor of possessing the largest population of +Chinese outside of China itself, the colony numbering over 20,000. + +Of the pioneer San Francisco few traces remain, the old buildings +having nearly all disappeared. Large and costly business houses +and splendid residences have taken their place in the central +portion of the city, marble, granite, terra-cotta, iron and steel +being largely used as building material. The great prevalence of +frame buildings in the residence sections is largely due to the +popular belief that they are safer in a locality subject to +earthquakes, while the frequent occurrence of earth tremors long +restrained the inclination to erect lofty buildings. Not until +1890 was a high structure built, and few skyscrapers had invaded +the city up to its day of ruin. They will probably be introduced +more frequently in the future, recent experience having +demonstrated that they are in considerable measure earthquake +proof. + +The city before the fire contained numerous handsome structures, +including the famous old Palace Hotel, built at a cost of +$3,000,000 and with accommodations for 1,200 guests; the nearly +finished and splendid Fairmount Hotel; the City Hall, with its +lofty dome, on which $7,000,000 is said to have been spent, much of +it, doubtless, political plunder; a costly United States Mint and +Post Office, an Academy of Science, and many churches, colleges, +libraries and other public edifices. The city had 220 miles of +paved streets, 180 miles of electric and 77 of cable railway, 62 +hotels, 16 theatres, 4 large libraries, 5 daily newspapers, etc., +together with 28 public parks. + +Sitting, like Rome of old, on its seven hills, San Francisco has +long been noted for its beautiful site, clasped in, as it is, +between the Pacific Ocean and its own splendid bay, on a peninsula +of some five miles in width. Where this juts into the bay at its +northernmost point rises a great promontory known as Telegraph +Hill, from whose height homeless thousands have recently gazed on +the smoke rising from their ruined homes. In the early days of +golden promise a watchman was stationed on this hill to look out +for coming ships entering the Golden Gate from their long voyage +around the Horn and signal the welcome news to the town below. +From this came its name. + +Cliffs rise on either side of the Golden Gate, and on one is +perched the Cliff House, long a famous hostelry. This stands so +low that in storms the surf is flung over its lower porticos, +though its force is broken by the Seal Rocks. A chief attraction +to this house was to see the seals play on these rocks, their +favorite place of resort. The Cliff House was at first said to +have been swept bodily by the earthquake into the sea, but it +proved to be very little injured, and stands erect in its old +picturesque location. + +In the vicinity of Telegraph Hill are Russian and Nob Hills, the +latter getting its peculiar title from the fact that the wealthy +"nobs," or mining magnates, of bonanza days built their homes on +its summit level. Farther to the east are Mount Olympus and +Strawberry Hill, and beyond these the Twin Peaks, which really +embrace three hills, the third being named Bernal Heights. Farther +to the south and east is Rincan Hill, the last in the half moon +crescent of hills, within which is a spread of flat ground +extending to the bay. Behind the hills on the Pacific side +stretches a vast sweep of sand, at some places level, but often +gathered into great round dunes. Part of this has been transformed +into the beautiful Golden Gate Park, a splendid expanse of green +verdure which has long been one of San Francisco's chief +attractions. + +Beneath the whole of San Francisco is a rock formation, but +everywhere on top of this extends the sand, the gift of the winds. +This is of such a character that a hole dug in the street anywhere, +even if only to the depth of a few feet, must be shored up with +planking or it will fill as fast as it is excavated, the sand +running as dry as the contents of an hour glass. When there is an +earthquake--or a "temblor," to use the Spanish name--it is the rock +foundation that is disturbed, not the sand, which, indeed, serves +to lessen the effect of the earth tremor. + + +THE FOUNDATIONS OF THE CITY. + + +Leaving the region of the hills and descending from their crescent- +shaped expanse, we find a broad extent of low ground, sloping +gently toward the bay. On this low-lying flat was built all of San +Francisco's business houses, all its principal hotels and a large +part of its tenements and poorer dwellings. It was here that the +earthquake was felt most severely and that the fire started which +laid waste the city. + +Rarely has a city been built on such doubtful foundations. The +greater part of the low ground was a bay in 1849, but it has since +been filled in by the drifting sands blown from the ocean side by +the prevailing west winds and by earth dumped into it. Much of +this land was "made ground." Forty-niners still alive say that +when they first saw San Francisco the waters of the bay came up to +Montgomery Street. The Palace Hotel was in Montgomery Street, and +from there to the ferry docks--a long walk for any man--the water +had been driven back by a "filling-in" process. + +This is the district that especially suffered, that south of Market +and east of Montgomery Streets. Nearly all the large buildings in +this section are either built on piles driven into the sand and mud +or were raised upon wooden foundations. It is on such ground as +this that the costly Post Office building was erected, despite the +protests of nearly the entire community, who asserted that the +ground was nothing but a filled-in bog. + +In none of the earthquakes that San Francisco has had was any +serious damage except to houses in this filled-in territory, and to +houses built along the line of some of the many streams which ran +from the hills down to the bay, and which were filled in as the +town grew--for instance, the Grand Opera House was built over the +bed of St. Anne's Creek. A bog, slough and marsh, known as the +Pipeville Slough, was the ground on which the City Hall was built, +and which was originally a burying ground. Sand from the western +shore had blown over and drifted into the marsh and hardened its +surface. + +When the final grading scheme of the city was adopted in 1853, and +work went on, the water front of the city was where Clay Street now +is, between Montgomery and Sansome Streets. The present level area +of San Francisco of about three thousand acres is an average of +nine feet above or below the natural surface of the ground and the +changes made necessitated the transfer of 21,000,000 cubic yards +from hills to hollows. Houses to the number of thousands were +raised or lowered, street floors became subcellars or third stories +and the whole natural face of the ground was altered. + +Through this infirm material all the pipes of the water and sewer +system of San Francisco in its business districts and in most of +the region south of Market street were laid. When the earthquake +came, the filled-in ground shook like the jelly it is. The only +firm and rigid material in its millions of cubic yards of surface +area and depth were the iron pipes. Naturally they broke, as they +would not bend, and San Francisco's water system was therefore +instantly disabled, with the result that the fire became complete +master of the situation and raged uncontrolled for three days and +nights. + +Although the earthquake wrecked the business and residential +portions of the city alike, on the hills the land did not sink. +All "made ground" sank in consequence of the quaking, but on the +high ground the upper parts of the buildings were about the only +portions of the structures wrecked. Most of the damage on the +hills was done by falling chimneys. On Montgomery Street, half a +block from the main office of the Western Union Company, the middle +of the street was cracked and blown up, but during the shocks which +struck the Western Union building only the top stories were +cracked. Similar phenomena were experienced in other localities, +and the bulk of the disaster, so far as the earthquake was +concerned, was confined to the low-lying region above described. + + +THE BANE OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + + +From the origin of San Francisco the earthquake has been its bane. +During the past fifty years fully 250 shocks have been recorded, +while all California has been subject to them. But frequency +rather than violence of shocks has been the characteristic of the +seismic history of the State, there having been few shocks that +caused serious damage, and none since 1872 that led to loss of +life. + +There was a violent shock in 1856, when the city was only a mining +town of small frame buildings. Several shanties were overthrown +and a few persons killed by falling walls and chimneys. There was +a severe shock also in 1865, in which many buildings were +shattered. Next in violence was the shock of 1872, which cracked +the walls of some of the public buildings and caused a panic. +There was no great loss of life. In April, 1898, just before +midnight, there was a lively shakeup which caused the tall +buildings to shake like the snapping of a whip and drove the +tourists out of the hotels into the streets in their nightclothes. +Three or four old houses fell, and the Benicia Navy Yard, which is +on made ground across the bay, was damaged to the extent of about +$100,000. The last severe shock was in January, 1900, when the St. +Nicholas Hotel was badly damaged. + +These were the heaviest shocks. On the other hand, light shocks, +as above said, have been frequent. Probably the sensible quakes +have averaged three or four a year. These are usually tremblings +lasting from ten seconds to a minute and just heavy enough to wake +light sleepers or to shake dishes about on the shelves. Tourists +and newcomers are generally alarmed by these phenomena, but old +Californians have learned to take them philosophically. To one is +not afraid of them, the sensation of one of these little tremblers +is rather pleasant than otherwise, and the inhabitants grew so +accustomed to them as rarely to let them disturb their equanimity. + +After 1900 the forces beneath the earth seemed to fall asleep. As +it proved, they were only biding their time. The era was at hand +when they were to declare themselves in all their mighty power and +fall upon the devoted city with ruin in their grasp. But all this +lay hidden in the secret casket of time, and the city kept up to +its record as one of the liveliest and in many respects the most +reckless and pleasure-loving on the continent, its people +squandering their money with thoughtless improvidence and enjoying +to the full all the good that life held out to them. + +On the 17th of April, 1906, the city was, as usual, gay, careless, +busy, its people attending to business or pleasure with their +ordinary vim as inclination led them, and not a soul dreaming of +the horrors that lay in wait. They were as heedless of coming +peril and death as the inhabitants of Sodom and Gomorrah before the +rain of fire from heaven descended upon their devoted heads. This +is not to say that they were doomed by God to destruction like +these "cities of the plains." We should more wisely say that the +forces of ruin within the earth take no heed of persons or places. +They come and go as the conditions of nature demand, and if man has +built one of his cities across their destined track, its doom comes +from its situation, not from the moral state of its inhabitants. + + +THE GREAT DISASTER OF 1906. + + +That night the people went, with their wonted equanimity, to their +beds, rich and poor, sick and well alike. Did any of them dream of +disaster in the air? It may be so, for often, as the poet tells +us, "Coming events cast their shadows before." But, forewarned by +dreams or not, doubtless not a soul in the great city was prepared +for the terrible event so near at hand, when, at thirteen minutes +past five o'clock on the dread morning of the 18th, they felt their +beds lifted beneath them as if by a Titan hand, heard the crash of +falling walls and ceilings, and saw everything in their rooms +tossed madly about, while through their windows came the roar of an +awful disaster from the city without. + +It was a matter not of minutes, but of seconds, yet on all that +coast, long the prey of the earthquake, no shock like it had ever +been felt, no such sudden terror awakened, no such terrible loss +occasioned as in those few fearful seconds. Again and again the +trembling of the earth passed by, three quickly repeated shocks, +and the work of the demon of ruin was done. People woke with a +start to find themselves flung from their beds to the floor, many +of them covered with the fragments of broken ceilings, many lost +among the ruins of falling floors and walls, many pinned in +agonizing suffering under the ruins of their houses, which had been +utterly wrecked in those fatal seconds. Many there were, indeed, +who had been flung to quick if not to instant death under their +ruined homes. + +Those seconds of the reign of the elemental forces had turned the +gayest, most careless city on the continent into a wreck which no +words can fitly describe. Those able to move stumbled in wild +panic across the floors of their heaving houses, regardless of +clothing, of treasures, of everything but the mad instinct for +safety, and rushed headlong into the streets, to find that the +earth itself had yielded to the energy of its frightful interior +forces and had in places been torn and rent like the houses +themselves. New terrors assailed the fugitives as fresh tremors +shook the solid ground, some of them strong enough to bring down +shattered walls and chimneys, and bring back much of the mad terror +of the first fearful quake. The heaviest of these came at eight +o'clock. While less forcible than that which had caused the work +of destruction, it added immensely to the panic and dread of the +people and put many of the wanderers to flight, some toward the +ferry, the great mass in the direction of the sand dunes and Golden +Gate Park. + +The spectacle of the entire population of a great city thus roused +suddenly from slumber by a fierce earthquake shock and sent flying +into the streets in utter panic, where not buried under falling +walls or tumbling debris, is one that can scarcely be pictured in +words, and can be given in any approach to exact realization only +in the narratives of those who passed through its horrors and +experienced the sensations to which it gave rise. Some of the more +vivid of these personal accounts will be presented later, but at +present we must confine ourselves to a general statement of the +succession of events. + +The earthquake proved but the beginning and much the least +destructive part of the disaster. In many of the buildings there +were fires, banked for the night, but ready to kindle the +inflammable material hurled down upon them by the shock. In others +were live electric wires which the shock brought in contact with +woodwork. The terror-stricken fugitives saw, here and there, in +all directions around them, the alarming vision of red flames +curling upward and outward, in gleaming contrast to the white light +of dawn just showing in the eastern sky. Those lurid gleams +climbed upward in devouring haste, and before the sun had fairly +risen a dozen or more conflagrations were visible in all sections +of the business part of the city, and in places great buildings +broke with startling suddenness into flame, which shot hotly high +into the air. + +While the mass of the people were stunned by the awful suddenness +of the disaster and stood rooted to the ground or wandered +helplessly about in blank dismay, there were many alert and self- +possessed among them who roused themselves quickly from their +dismay and put their energies to useful work. Some of these gave +themselves to the work of rescue, seeking to save the injured from +their perilous situation and draw the bodies of the dead from the +ruins under which they lay. Those base wretches to whom plunder is +always the first thought were as quickly engaged in seeking for +spoil in edifices laid open to their plundering hands by the shock. +Meanwhile the glare of the flames brought the fire-fighters out in +hot haste with their engines, and up from the military station at +the Presidio, on the Golden Gate side of the city, came at double +quick a force of soldiers, under the efficient command of General +Funston, of Cuban and Philippine fame. These trained troops were +at once put on guard over the city, with directions to keep the +best order possible, and with strict command to shoot all looters +at sight. Funston recognized at the start the necessity of keeping +the lawless element under control in such an exigency as that which +he had to face. Later in the day the First Regiment of California +National Guards was called out and put on duty, with similar +orders. + + +RESCUERS AND FIRE-FIGHTERS. + + +The work of fighting the fire was the first and greatest duty to be +performed, but from the start it proved a very difficult, almost a +hopeless, task. With fierce fires burning at once in a dozen or +more separate places, the fire department of the city would have +been inadequate to cope with the demon of flame even under the best +of circumstances. As it was, they found themselves handicapped at +the start by a nearly total lack of water. The earthquake had +disarranged and broken the water mains and there was scarcely a +drop of water to be had, so that the engines proved next to +useless. Water might be drawn from the bay, but the centre of the +conflagration was a mile or more away, and this great body of water +was rendered useless in the stringent exigency. + +The only hope that remained to the authorities was to endeavor to +check the progress of the flames by the use of dynamite, blowing up +buildings in the line of progress of the conflagration. This was +put in practice without loss of time, and soon the thunder-like +roar of the explosions began, blasts being heard every few minutes, +each signifying that some building had been blown to atoms. But +over the gaps thus made the flames leaped, and though the brave +fellows worked with a desperation and energy of the most heroic +type, it seemed as if all their labors were to be without avail, +the terrible fire marching on as steadily as if a colony of ants +had sought to stay its devastating progress. + + +THE HORROR OF THE PEOPLE. + + +It was with grief and horror that the mass of the people gazed on +this steady march of the army of ruin. They were seemingly half +dazed by the magnitude of the disaster, strangely passive in the +face of the ruin that surrounded them, as if stunned by despair and +not yet awakened to a realization of the horrors of the situation. +Among these was the possibility of famine. No city at any time +carries more than a few days' supply of provisions, and with the +wholesale districts and warehouse regions invaded by the flames the +shortage of food made itself apparent from the start. Water was +even more difficult to obtain, the supply being nearly all cut off. +Those who possessed supplies of food and liquids of any kind in +many cases took advantage of the opportunity to advance their +prices. Thus an Associated Press man was obliged to pay twenty- +five cents for a small glass of mineral water, the only kind of +drink that at first was to be had, while food went up at the same +rate, bakers frequently charging as much as a dollar for a loaf. +As for the expressmen and cabmen, their charges were often +practically prohibitory, as much as fifty dollars being asked for +the conveyance of a passenger to the ferry. Policemen were early +stationed at some of the retail shops, regulating the sale and the +price of food, and permitting only a small portion to be sold to +each purchaser, so as to prevent a few persons from exhausting the +supply. + +The fire, the swaying and tottering walls, the frequent dynamite +explosions, each followed by a crashing shower of stones and +bricks, rendered the streets very unsafe for pedestrians, and all +day long the flight of residents from the city went on, growing +quickly to the dimensions of a panic. The ferryboats were crowded +with those who wished to leave the city, and a constant stream of +the homeless, carrying such articles as they had rescued from their +homes, was kept up all day long, seeking the sand dunes, the parks +and every place uninvaded by the flames. Before night Golden Gate +Park and the unbuilt districts adjoining on the ocean side +presented the appearance of a tented city, shelter of many kinds +being improvised from bedding and blankets, and the people settling +into such sparse comfort as these inadequate means provided. + +A strange feature of the disaster was a rush to the banks by people +who wished to get their money and flee from the seemingly doomed +city. The fire front was yet distant from these institutions, +which were destined to fall a prey to the flames, and all that +morning lines of dishevelled and half-frantic men stood before the +banks on Montgomery and Sansome Streets, braving in their thirst +for money the smoke and falling embers and beating in wild anxiety +upon the doors. Their effort was vain; the doors remained closed; +finally the police drove these people away, and the banks went on +with the work of saving their valuables. As for the people who +wildly fled toward the ferries, in spite of the fact that ten +blocks of fire, as the day went on, stopped all egress in that +direction, it became necessary for them to be driven back by the +police and the troops, and they were finally forced to seek safety +in the sands. And thus, with incident manifold, went on that fatal +Wednesday, the first day of the dread disaster. + + +OFFICIAL RECORD OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + + +It is important here to give the official record of the earthquake +shocks, as given by the scientists. Professor George Davidson, of +the University of California, says of them: + +"The earthquake came from north to south, and the only description +I am able to give of its effect is that it seemed like a terrier +shaking a rat. I was in bed, but was awakened by the first shock. +I began to count the seconds as I went towards the table where my +watch was, being able through much practice closely to approximate +the time in that manner. The shock came at 5.12 o'clock. The +first sixty seconds were the most severe. From that time on it +decreased gradually for about thirty seconds. There was then the +slightest perceptible lull. Then the shock continued for sixty +seconds longer, being slighter in degree in this minute than in any +part of the preceding minute and a half. There were two slight +shocks afterwards which I did not time. At 8.14 o'clock I recorded +a shock of five seconds' duration, and one at 4.15 of two seconds. +There were slight shocks which I did not record at 5.17 and at +5.27. At 6.50 P. M. there was a sharp shock of several seconds." + +Professor A. O. Louschner, of the students' observatory of the +University of California, thus records his observations: + +"The principal part of the earthquake came in two sections, the +first series of vibrations lasting about forty seconds. The +vibrations diminished gradually during the following ten seconds, +and then occurred with renewed vigor for about twenty-five seconds +more. But even at noon the disturbance had not subsided, as slight +shocks are recorded at frequent intervals on the seismograph. The +motion was from south-southeast to north-northwest. + +"The remarkable feature of this earthquake, aside from its +intensity, was its rotary motion. As seen from the print, the sum +total of all displacements represents a very regular ellipse, and +some of the lines representing the earth's motion can be traced +along the whole circumference. The result of observation indicates +that our heaviest shocks are in the direction south-southeast to +north-northwest. In that respect the records of the three heaviest +earthquakes agree entirely. But they have several other features +in common. One of these is that while the displacements are very +large the vibration period is comparatively slow, amounting to +about one second in the last two big earthquakes." + +If we seek to discover the actual damage done by the earthquake, +the fact stands out that the fire followed so close upon it that +the traces of its ravages were in many cases obliterated. So many +buildings in the territory of the severest shock fell a prey to the +flames or to dynamite that the actual work of the earth forces was +made difficult and in many places impossible to discover. This +fact is likely to lead to considerable dispute and delay when the +question of insurance adjustment comes up, many of the insurance +companies confining their risk to fire damage and claiming +exemption from liability in the case of damage due to earthquake. + +Among the chief victims of the earth-shake was the costly and showy +City Hall, with its picturesque dome standing loftily above the +structure. This dome was left still erect, but only as a skeleton +might stand, with its flesh gone and its bare ribs exposed to the +searching air. Its roof, its smaller towers came tumbling down in +frightful disarray, and the once proud edifice is to-day a +miserable wreck, fire having aided earthquake in its ruin. The new +Post Office, a handsome government building, also suffered severely +from the shock, its walls being badly cracked and injury done by +earthquake and fire that it is estimated will need half a million +dollars to repair. + + +FREAKS OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + + +One observer states that the earthquake appeared to be very +irregular in its course. He tells us that "there are gas +reservoirs with frames all twisted and big factories thrown to the +ground, while a few yards away are miserable shanties with not a +board out of place. Wooden, steel and brick structures hardly felt +the earthquake in some parts of the city, while in other places all +were wrecked. + +"Skirting the shore northwest from the big ferry building--which +was so seriously injured that it will have to be rebuilt--the first +thing observed was the extraordinary irregularity of the +earthquake's course. Pier No. 5, for instance, is nothing but a +mass of ruins, while Pier No. 3, on one side of it and Pier No. 7, +on the other side, similar in size and construction, are undamaged. +Farther on, the Kosmos Line pier is a complete wreck." + +The big forts at the entrance to the Golden Gate also suffered +seriously from the great shake-up, and the emplacements of the big +guns were cracked and damaged. The same is the case with the +fortifications back of Old Fort Point, the great guns in these +being for the present rendered useless. It will take much time and +labor to restore their delicate adjustment upon their carriages. + +The buildings that collapsed in the city were all flimsy wooden +buildings and old brick structures, the steel frame buildings, even +the score or more in course of construction, escaping injury from +the earthquake shock. Of the former, one of the most complete +wrecks was the Valencia Hotel, a four-story wooden building, which +collapsed into a heap of ruins, pinning many persons under its +splintered timbers. + + +SKYSCRAPERS EARTHQUAKE PROOF. + + +In fact, as the reports of damage wrought by the earthquake came +in, the conviction grew that one of the safest places during the +earthquake shock was on one of the upper floors of the skyscraper +office buildings or hotels. As a matter of fact, not a single +person, so far as can be learned, lost his or her life or was +seriously injured in any of the tall, steel frame structures in the +city, although they rocked during the quake like a ship in a gale. + +The loss of life was caused in almost every case by the collapse of +frame structures, which the native San Franciscan believed was the +safest of all in an earthquake, or by the shaking down of portions +of brick or stone buildings which did not possess an iron +framework. The manner in which the tall steel structures withstood +the shock is a complete vindication of the strongest claims yet +made for them, and it is made doubly interesting from the fact that +this is the first occasion on which the effect of an earthquake of +any proportions on a tall steel structure could be studied. + +The St. Francis Hotel, a sixteen-story structure, can be repaired +at an expenditure of about $400,000, its damage being almost wholly +by fire. The steel shell and the floors are intact. Although the +building rocked like a ship in a gale while the quake lasted, its +foundations are undamaged. Other steel buildings which are so +little damaged as to admit of repairs more or less extensive are +the James Flood, the Union Trust, the CALL building, the Mutual +Savings Bank, the Crocker-Woolworth building and the Postal +building. All of these are modern buildings of steel construction, +from sixteen to twenty stories. + +A peculiar feature of the effect of the earthquake on structures of +this kind is reported in the case of the Fairmount Hotel, a +fourteen-story structure. The first two stories of the Fairmount +are found to be so seriously damaged that they will have to be +rebuilt, while the other twelve stories are uninjured. + +Various explanations are being made of the surprising resistance +shown by the skyscrapers. The great strength and binding power of +the steel frame, combined with a deep-seated foundation and great +lightness as compared with buildings of stone, are the main reasons +given. The iron, it is said, unlike stone, responded to the +vibratory force and passed it along to be expended in other +directions, while brick or stone offered a solid and impenetrable +front, with the result that the seismic force tended to expend +itself by shaking the building to pieces. + +Whether there is any scientific basis for the latter theory or not, +it seems reasonable enough, in view of the descriptions given us of +the manner in which the steel buildings received the shock. All +things considered, the modern steel building has afforded in the +San Francisco earthquake the most convincing evidence of its +strength. + +From Golden Gate Park came news of the total destruction of the +large building covering a portion of the children's playground. +The walls were shattered beyond repair, the roof fell in, and the +destruction was complete. The pillars of the new stone gates at +the park entrance were twisted and torn from their foundations, +some of them, weighing nearly four tons, being shifted as though +they were made of cork. It is a little singular that the monuments +and statues in the city escaped without damage except in the case +of the imposing Dewey Monument, in Union Square Park, which +suffered what appears to be a minor injury. + +In this connection an incident of extraordinary character is +narrated. Among the statues on the buildings of the Leland +Stanford, Jr., University, all of which were overthrown, was a +marble statue of Carrara in a niche on the building devoted to +zoology and physiology. This in falling broke through a hard +cement pavement and buried itself in the ground below, from which +it was dug. The singular fact is that when recovered it proved to +be without a crack or scratch. This university seemed to be a +central point in the disturbance, the destruction of its buildings +being almost total, though they had been built with the especial +design of resisting earthquake shocks. + +Such was the general character of the earthquake at San Francisco +and in its vicinity. It may be said farther that all, or very +nearly all, the deaths and injuries were due to it directly or +indirectly, even those who perished by fire owing their deaths to +the fact of their being pinned in buildings ruined by the +earthquake shock, while others were killed by falling walls +weakened by the same cause. + +On the night of April 23d the earth tremor returned with a slight +shock, only sufficient to cause a temporary alarm. On the +afternoon of the 25th came another and severer one, strong enough +to shake down some tottering walls and add another to the list of +victims. This was a woman named Annie Whitaker, who was at work in +the kitchen of her home at the time. The chimney, which had been +weakened by the great shock, now fell, crashing through the roof +and fracturing her skull. Thus the earth powers claimed a final +human sacrifice before their dread visitation ended. + + + +CHAPTER II. + +The Demon of Fire Invades the Stricken City. + + +The terrors of the earthquake are momentary. One fierce, levelling +shock and usually all is over. The torment within the earth has +passed on and the awakened forces of the earth's crust sink into +rest again, after having shaken the surface for many leagues. +Rarely does the dread agent of ruin leave behind it such a terrible +follower to complete its work as was the case in the doomed city of +San Francisco. All seemed to lead towards such a carnival of ruin +as the earth has rarely seen. The demon of fire followed close +upon the heels of the unseen fiend of the earth's hidden caverns, +and ran red-handed through the metropolis of the West, kindling a +thousand unhurt buildings, while the horror-stricken people stood +aghast in terror, as helpless to combat this new enemy as they were +to check the ravages of the earthquake itself. + +Why not quench the fire at its start with water? Alas! there was +no water, and this expedient was a hopeless one. The iron mains +which carried the precious fluid under the city streets were broken +or injured so that no quenching streams were to be had. In some +cases the engine houses had been so damaged that the fire-fighting +apparatus could not be taken out, though even if it had it would +have been useless. A sweeping conflagration and not an ounce of +water to throw upon it! The situation of the people was a +maddening one. They were forced helplessly and hopelessly to gaze +upon the destruction of their all, and it is no marvel if many of +them grew frantic and lost their reason at the sight. Thousands +gathered and looked on in blank and pitiful misery, their strong +hands, their iron wills of no avail, while the red-lipped fire +devoured the hopes of their lives. + +In a dozen, a hundred, places the flames shot up redly. Huge, +strong buildings which the earthquake had spared fell an +unresisting prey to the flames. The great, iron-bound, towering +Spreckles building, a steeple-like structure, of eighteen stories +in height, the tallest skyscraper in the city, had resisted the +earthquake and remained proudly erect. But now the flames gathered +round and assailed it. From both sides came their attack. A broad +district near by, containing many large hotels and lodging houses, +was being fiercely burnt out, and soon the windows of the lofty +building cracked and splintered, the flames shot triumphantly +within, and almost in an instant the vast interior was a seething +furnace, the wild flames rushing and leaping within until only the +blackened walls remained. + + +THE RESISTLESS MARCH OF THE FLAMES. + + +This was the region of the newspaper offices, and they quickly +succumbed. The Examiner, standing across Third Street from +Spreckles, collapsed from the earthquake shock. A flimsy edifice, +it had long been looked upon as dangerous. Another building in the +rear of this alone resisted both flames and smoke. Across Market +Street from the Examiner stood the Chronicle building, a dozen +stories high. Firmly built, it had borne the earthquake assault +unharmed, but the flames were an enemy against which it had no +defense, and it was quickly added to the victims of the fire-fiend. + +Farther down Market Street, the chief business thoroughfare of the +city, stood that great caravansary, the Palace Hotel, which for +thirty years had been a favorite hostelry, housing the bulk of the +visitors to the Californian metropolis. Its time had come. Doom +hovered over it. Its guests had fled in good season, as they saw +the irresistible approach of the conquering flames. Soon it was +ablaze; quickly from every window of its broad front the tongues of +flame curled hotly in the air; it became a thrice-heated furnace, +like so many of the neighboring structures, adding its quota to the +vast cloud of smoke that hung over the burning city, and rapidly +sinking in red ruin to the earth. + +All day Wednesday the fire spread unchecked, all efforts to stay +its devouring fury proving futile. In the business section of the +city everything was in ruins. Not a business house was left +standing. Theatres crumbled into smouldering heaps. Factories and +commission houses sank to red ruin before the devouring flames. +The scene was like that of ancient Babylon in its fall, or old Rome +when set on fire by Nero's command, as tradition tells. In modern +times there has been nothing to equal it except the conflagration +at Chicago, when the flames swept to ruin that queen city of the +Great Lakes. + +When night fell and the sun withdrew his beams the spectacle was +one at once magnificent and awe-inspiring. The city resembled one +vast blazing furnace. Looking over it from a high hill in the +western section, the flames could be seen ascending skyward for +miles upon miles, while in the midst of the red spirals of flame +could be seen at intervals the black skeletons and falling towers +of doomed buildings. Above all this hung a dense pall of smoke, +showing lurid where the flames were reflected from its dark and +threatening surface. To those nearer the scene presented many +pathetic and distressing features, the fire glare throwing weird +shadows over the worn and panic-stricken faces of the woe-begone +fugitives, driven from their homes and wandering the streets in +helpless misery. Many of them lay sleeping on piles of blankets +and clothing which they had brought with them, or on the hard +sidewalks, or the grass of the open parks. + + +THE CARE OF THE WOUNDED. + + +Through all the streets ambulances and express wagons were +hurrying, carrying dead and injured to morgues and hospitals. But +these refuges for the wounded or receptacles for the dead were no +safer than the remainder of the city. In the morgue at the Hall of +Justice fifty bodies lay, but the approach of the flames rendered +it necessary to remove to Jackson Square these mutilated remnants +of what had once been men. Hospitals were also abandoned at +intervals, doctors and nurses being forced to remove their patients +in haste from the approaching flames. + +There is an open park opposite City Hall. Here the Board of +Supervisors met, and, with fifty substantial citizens who joined +them, formed a Committee of Safety, to take in hand the direction +of affairs and to seek safe quarters for the dying and the dead. +Strangely enough, Mechanics' Pavilion, opposite City Hall, had +escaped injury from the earthquake, though it was only a wooden +building. It had the largest floor in San Francisco, and was +pressed into service at once. The police and the troops, working +in harmony together, passed the word that the dead and injured +should be brought there, the hospitals and morgue having become +choked, and the order was quickly obeyed, until about 400 of the +hurt, many of them terribly mangled, were laid in improvised cots, +attended by all the physicians and trained nurses who could be +obtained. + +The corpses were much fewer, the workers being too busy in fighting +the fire and caring for the wounded to give time and attention as +yet to the dead. But one of the first wagons to arrive brought a +whole family--father, mother and three children--all dead except +the baby, which had a broken arm and a terrible cut across the +forehead. They had been dragged from the ruins of their house on +the water front. A large consignment of bodies, mostly of +workingmen, came from a small hotel on Eddy Street, through the +roof of which the upper part of a tall building next door had +fallen, crushing all below. + + +FIRE ATTACKS THE MINT. + + +To return to the story of the conflagration, the escape of the +United States Mint was one of the most remarkable incidents. +Within the vaults of this fine structure was the vast sum of +$300,000,000 in gold and silver coin and a value of $8,000,000 in +bullion, and toward this mighty sum of wealth the flames swept on +all sides, as if eager to add the reservoir of the precious metals +to their spoils. The Mint building passed through the earthquake +with little damage, though its big smokestacks were badly shaken. +The fire seemed bent on making it its prey, every building around +it being burned to the ground, and it remaining the only building +for blocks that escaped destruction. + +Its safety was due to the energy and activity of its employees. +Superintendent Leach reached it shortly after the shock and found a +number of men already there, whom he stationed at points of vantage +from roof to basement. The fire apparatus of the Mint was brought +into service and help given by the fire department, and after a +period of strenuous labor the flames were driven back. The peril +for a time was critical, the windows on Mint Avenue taking fire and +also those on the rear three stories, and the flames for a time +pouring in and driving back the workers. The roof also caught +fire, but the men within fought like Titans, and efficient aid was +given by a squad of soldiers sent to them. In the end the fire +fiend was vanquished, though considerable damage was done to the +adjusting rooms and the refinery, while the heavy stone cornice on +that side of the building was destroyed. The total loss to the +Mint was later estimated at $15,000. + +Late on Wednesday evening the fire front crept close up to +Mechanics' Pavilion, where a corps of fifty physicians and numerous +nurses were active in the work of relief to the wounded. +Ambulances and automobiles were busy unloading new patients rescued +from the ruins when word came that the building would have to be +vacated in haste. Every available vehicle was at once pressed into +service and the patients removed as rapidly as possible, being +taken to hospitals and private houses in the safer parts of the +city. Hardly had the last of the injured been carried through the +door when the roof was seen to be in a blaze, and shortly afterward +the whole building burst into a whirlwind of flame. + +At midnight the fire was raging and roaring with unslacked rage, +and at dawn of Thursday its fury was undiminished. The work of +destruction was already immense. In much of the Hayes Valley +district, south of McAllister and north of Market Street, the +destruction was complete. From the Mechanics' Pavilion and St. +Nicholas Hotel opposite down to Oakland Ferry the journey was +heartrending, the scene appalling. On each side was ruin, nothing +but ruin, and hillocks of masonry and heaps of rubbish of every +description filled to its middle the city's greatest thoroughfare. + +Across an alley from the Post Office stood the Grant Building, one +of the headquarters of the army. Of this only the smoke-darkened +walls were left. On Market Street opposite this building the +beautiful front of the Hibernian Savings Bank, the favorite +institution of the middle and poorer classes, presented a hideous +aspect of ruin. At eleven o'clock of Wednesday night the north +side of Market Street stood untouched, and hopes were entertained +that the great Flood, Crocker, Phelan and other buildings would be +spared, but the hunger of the fire fiend was not yet satiated, and +the following day these proud structures had only their blackened +ruins to show. On both sides of Market Street, down to the ferry, +the tale was the same. The handsome and gigantic St. Francis +Hotel, on Powell Street, fronting on Union Square, was left a +ruined shell. This was one of the lofty steel structures that bore +unharmed the earthquake shock, but quickly succumbed to the flames. +Among the other skyscrapers north of Market Street that perished +were the fourteen-story Merchants' Exchange, and the great Mills +Building, occupying almost an entire block. + +One section of the city that went without pity, as it had long +stood with reprobation, was that group of disreputable buildings +known as Chinatown, the place of residence of many thousands of +Celestials. The flames made their way unchecked in this direction, +and by noon on Thursday the whole section was a raging furnace, the +denizens escaping with what they could carry of their simple +possessions. On the farther western side the flames cut a wide +swath to Van Ness Avenue, a wide thoroughfare, at which it was +hoped the march of the fire in this direction might be checked, +especially as the water mains here furnished a weak supply. + +In the Missouri district, to the south of Market Street, the zone +of ruin extended westward toward the extreme southern portion, but +was checked at Fourteenth and Missouri Streets by the wholesale use +of dynamite. At this point were located the Southern Pacific +Hospital, the St. Francis Hospital and the College of Physicians +and Surgeons. In order to save these institutions, buildings were +blown up all around them, and by noon the danger was averted. It +later became necessary to destroy the Southern Pacific Hospital +with dynamite, the patients having been removed to places of +safety. + + +THE PALACES ON NOB'S HILL. + + +In the centre of San Francisco rises the aristocratic elevation +known as Nob's Hill, on which the early millionaires built their +homes, and on which stood the city's most palatial residences. It +ascends so abruptly from Kearney Street that it is inaccessible to +any kind of vehicle, the slope being at any angle little short of +forty-five degrees. It is as steep on the south side, and the only +approach by carriage is from the north. To this hill is due the +pioneer cable railway, built in the early '70's. + +Here the "big four" of the railroad magnates--Stanford, Hopkins, +Huntington and Crocker--had put millions in their mansions, the +Mark Hopkins residence being said to have cost $2,500,000. These +men are all dead, and the last named edifice has been converted +into the Hopkins Art Institute, and at the time of the fire was +well filled with costly art treasures. The Stanford Museum, which +also contains valuable objects of art, is now the property of the +Leland Stanford University. The Flood mansion, which cost more +than $1,000,000, was one of the showy residences on this hill, west +of it being the Huntington home and farther west the Crocker +residence, with its broad lawns and magnificent stables. Many +other beautiful and costly houses stood on this hill, and opposite +the Stanford and Hopkins edifices the great Fairmount Hotel had for +two years past been in process of construction and was practically +completed. On the northeastern slope of this hill stood the famous +Chinatown, through which it was necessary to pass to ascend Nob's +Hill from the principal section of the wholesale district. + +This region of palaces was the next to fall a prey to the +insatiable flames. Early Thursday morning a change in the wind +sent the fire westward, eating its way from the water front north +of Market Street toward Nob's Hill. Steadily but surely it climbed +the slope, and the Stanford and Hopkins edifices fell victims to +its fury. Others of the palaces of millionairedom followed. Huge +clouds of smoke enveloped the beautiful white stone Fairmount +Hotel, and there was a general feeling of horror when this +magnificent structure seemed doomed. To it the Committe of Safety +had retreated, but the flames from the burning buildings opposite +reached it, and the committee once more migrated in search of safe +quarters. Fortunately, it escaped with little damage, its walls +remaining intact and much of the interior being left in a state of +preservation, warranting its managers to offer space within it to +the committees whose aim it was to help the homeless or to store +supplies. Some of the woodwork of the building was destroyed by +the fire, but the structure was in such good condition that work on +it was quickly resumed, with the statement that its completion +would not be delayed more than three months beyond the date set, +which was November, 19O6. + +In the district extending northwestwardly from Kearney Street and +Montgomery Avenue, untouched during the first day, the fire spread +freely on the second. This district embraces the Latin quarter, +peopled by various nationalities, the houses being of the flimsiest +construction. Once it had gained a foothold there, the fire swept +onward as though making its way through a forest in the driest +summer season. + +An apochryphal incident is told of the fire in this quarter, which +may be repeated as one example of the fables set afloat. It is +stated that water to fight the fire here was sadly lacking, the +only available supply being from an old well. At a critical moment +the pump sucked dry, the water in the well being exhausted. The +residents were not yet conquered. Some of them threw open their +cellar doors and, calling for assistance, began to roll out barrels +of red wine. Barrel after barrel appeared, until fully five +hundred gallons were ready for use. Then the barrel heads were +smashed in and the bucket brigade turned from water to wine. Sacks +were dipped in the wine and used for fighting the fire. Beds were +stripped of their blankets and these soaked in the wine and hung +over exposed portions of the cottages, while men on the roofs +drenched the shingles and sides of the houses with wine. The +postscript to this queer story is that the wine won and the +firefighters saved their homes. The story is worth retelling, +though it may be added that wine, if it contained much alcohol, +would serve as a feeder rather than as an extinguisher of flame. + +A striking description of the aspect of the city on that terrible +Wednesday is told by Jerome B. Clark, whose home was in Berkeley, +but who did business in San Francisco. He left for the city early +Wednesday morning, after a minor shake-up at home, which he thus +describes: + + +A VIVID FIRE PICTURE. + + +"I was asleep and was awakened by the house rocking. With the +exception of water in vases, and milk in pans being spilled, and +one of our chimneys badly cracked, we escaped with nothing but a +bad scare, but I can assure you it was a terrific and terrifying +experience to feel that old house rocking, jolting and jumping +under us, with the most terrible roar, dull, deep and nerve- +racking. It calmed down after that and we went back to bed, only +to get up at six o'clock to find that neighbors had suffered by +having vases knocked from tables, bric-a-brac knocked around, tiles +knocked out of grates and scarcely a chimney left standing. We +thought that we had had the worst of it, so I started over to the +city as usual, reaching there about eight o'clock, and it is just +impossible to describe the scenes that met my eyes. + +"In every direction from the ferry building flames were seething, +and as I stood there, a five-story building half a block away fell +with a crash, and the flames swept clear across Market Street and +caught a new fireproof building recently erected. The streets in +places had sunk three or four feet, in others great humps had +appeared four or five feet high. The street car tracks were bent +and twisted out of shape. Electric wires lay in every direction. +Streets on all sides were filled with brick and mortar, buildings +either completely collapsed or brick fronts had just dropped +completely off. Wagons with horses hitched to them, drivers and +all, lying on the streets, all dead, struck and killed by the +falling bricks, these mostly the wagons of the produce dealers, who +do the greater part of their work at that hour of the morning. +Warehouses and large wholesale houses of all descriptions either +down, or walls bulging, or else twisted, buildings moved bodily two +or three feet out of a line and still standing with walls all +cracked. + +"The Call building, a twelve-story skyscraper, stood, and looked +all right at first glance, but had moved at the base two feet at +one end out into the sidewalk, and the elevators refused to work, +all the interior being just twisted out of shape. It afterward +burned as I watched it. I worked my way in from the ferry, +climbing over piles of brick and mortar and keeping to the centre +of the street and avoiding live wires that lay around on every +side, trying to get to my office. I got within two blocks of it +and was stopped by the police on account of falling walls. I saw +that the block in which I was located was on fire, and seemed +doomed, so turned back and went up into the city. + +"Not knowing San Francisco, you would not know the various +buildings, but fires were blazing in all directions, and all of the +finest and best of the office and business buildings were either +burning or surrounded. They pumped water from the bay, but the +fire was soon too far away from the water front to make any efforts +in this direction of much avail. The water mains had been broken +by the earthquake, and so there was no supply for the fire engines +and they were helpless. The only way out of it was to dynamite, +and I saw some of the finest and most beautiful buildings in the +city, new modern palaces, blown to atoms. First they blew up one +or two buildings at a time. Finding that of no avail, they took +half a block; that was no use; then they took a block; but in spite +of them all the fire kept on spreading. + +"The City Hall, which, while old, was quite a magnificent building, +occupying a large square block of land, was completely wrecked by +the earthquake, and to look upon reminded one of the pictures of +ancient ruins of Rome or Athens. The Palace Hotel stood for a long +time after everything near it had gone, but finally went up in +smoke as the rest. You could not look in any direction in the city +but what mass after mass of flame stared you in the face. To get +about one had to dodge from one street to another, back and forth +in zigzag fashion, and half an hour after going through a street, +it would be impassable. One after another of the magnificent +business blocks went down. The newer buildings seemed to have +withstood the shock better than any others, except well-built frame +buildings. The former lost some of the outside shell, but the +frame stood all right, and in some cases after fire had eaten them +all to pieces, the steel skeleton, although badly twisted and +warped, still stood. + +"When I finally left the city, it was all in flames as far as +Eighth Street, which is about a mile and a quarter or half from the +water front. I had to walk at least two miles around in order to +get to the ferry building, and when I got there you could see no +buildings standing in any direction. Nearly all the docks caved in +or sheds were knocked down, and all the streets along the water +front were a mass of seams, upheavals and depressions, car tracks +twisted in all shapes. Cars that had stood on sidings were all in +ashes and still burning." + +Wednesday's conflagration continued unabated throughout Thursday, +and it was not until late on Friday that the fire-fighters got it +safely under control. They worked like heroes, struggling almost +without rest, keeping up the nearly hopeless conflict until they +fairly fell in their tracks from fatigue. Handicapped by the lack +of water, they in one case brought it from the bay through lines of +hose well on to a mile in length. Yet despite all they could do +block after block of San Francisco's greatest buildings succumbed +to the flames and sank in red ruin before their eyes. + + +THE LANDMARKS CONSUMED. + + +On all sides famous landmarks yielded to the fury of the flames. +For three miles along the water front the ground was swept clean of +buildings, the blackened beams and great skeletons of factories, +warehouses and business edifices standing silhouetted against a +background of flames, while the whole commercial and office quarter +of Market Street suffered a similar fate. We may briefly instance +some of these victims of the flames. + +Among them were the Occidental Hotel, on Montgomery Street, for +years the headquarters for army officers; the old Lick House, built +by James Lick, the philanthropist; the California Hotel and +Theatre, on Bush Street; and of theatres, the Orpheum, the Alcazar, +the Majestic, the Columbia, the Magic, the Central, Fisher's and +the Grand Opera House, on Missouri Street, where the Conried Opera +Company had just opened for a two weeks' opera season. + +The banks that fell were numerous, including the Nevada National +Bank, the California, the Canadian Bank of Commerce, the First +National, the London and San Francisco, the London, Paris and +American, the Bank of British North America, the German-American +Savings Bank and the Crocker-Woolworth Bank building. A large +number of splendid apartment houses were also destroyed, and the +tide of destruction swept away a host of noble buildings far too +numerous to mention. + +At Post Street and Grant Avenue stood the Bohemian Club, one of the +widest known social organizations in the world. Its membership +included many men famous in art, literature and commerce. Its +rooms were decorated with the works of members, many of whose names +are known wherever paintings are discussed and many of them +priceless in their associations. Most of these were saved. There +were on special exhibition in the "Jinks" room of the Bohemian Club +a dozen paintings by old masters, including a Rembrandt, a Diaz, a +Murillo and others, probably worth $100,000. These paintings were +lost with the building, which went down in the flames. + +One of the great losses was that of St. Ignatius' Church and +College, at Van Ness Avenue and Hayes Street, the greatest +Jesuitical institution in the west, which cost a couple of millions +of dollars. The Merchants' Exchange building, a twelve-story +structure, eleven of whose floors were occupied as offices by the +Southern Pacific Railroad Company, was added to the sum of losses. + + +THE FIRE UNDER CONTROL. + + +For three long days the terrible fire fiend kept up his work, and +the fight went on until late on Friday, when the sweep of the +flames was at length checked and the fire brought under control. +The principal agent in this victory was dynamite, which was freely +used. To its work a separate chapter will be devoted. When at +length the area of the conflagration was limited the wealthiest +part of the city lay in embers and ashes, one of the principal +localities to escape being Pacific Heights, a mile west from Nob's +Hill, on which stood many costly homes of recent construction. + +On Friday night the fire that had worked its way from Nob's Hill to +North Beach Street, sweeping that quarter clean of buildings, +veered before a fierce wind and made its way southerly to the great +sea wall, with its docks and grain warehouses. The flames reached +the tanks of the San Francisco Gas Company, which had previously +been pumped out, and on Saturday morning the grain sheds on the +water front, about half a mile north of the ferry station, were +fiercely burning. But the fire here was confined to a small area, +and, with the work of fireboats in the bay and of the firemen on +shore, who used salt water pumped into their engines, it was +prevented from reaching the ferry building and the docks in that +vicinity. + +The buildings on a high slope between Van Ness and Polk Streets, +Union and Filbert Streets, were blazing fiercely, fanned by a high +wind, but the blocks here were so thinly settled that the fire had +little chance of spreading widely from this point. In fact, it was +at length practically under control, and the entire western +addition of the city west of Van Ness Avenue was safe from the +flames. The great struggle was fairly at an end, and the brave +force of workers were at length given some respite from their +strenuous labors. + +During the height of the struggle and the days of exhaustion and +depression that followed, exaggerated accounts of the losses and of +the area swept by the flames were current, some estimate making the +extent of the fire fifteen square miles out of the total of twenty- +five square miles of the city's area. It was not until Friday, the +27th, that an official survey of the burned district, made by City +Surveyor Woodward, was completed, and the total area burned over +found to be 2,500 acres, a trifle less than four square miles. +This, however, embraced the heart of the business section and many +of the principal residence streets, much of the saved area being +occupied by the dwellings of the poorer people, so that the money +loss was immensely greater than the percentage of ground burned +over would indicate. + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Fighting the Flames With Dynamite. + + +Shaken by earthquake, swept by flames, the water supply cut off by +the breaking of the mains, the authorities of the doomed city for a +time stood appalled. What could be done to stay the fierce march +of the flames which were sweeping resistlessly over palace and +hovel alike, over stately hall and miserable hut? Water was not to +be had; what was to take its place? Nothing remained but to meet +ruin with ruin, to make a desert in the path of the fire and thus +seek to stop its march. They had dynamite, gunpowder and other +explosives, and in the frightful exigency there was nothing else to +be used. Only for a brief interval did the authorities yield to +the general feeling of helplessness. Then they aroused themselves +to the demands of the occasion and prepared to do all in the power +of man in the effort to arrest the conflagration. + +While the soldiers under General Funston took military charge of +the city, squads of cavalry and troops of infantry patrolling the +streets and guarding the sections that had not yet been touched by +the flames, Mayor Schmitz and Chief of Police Dinan sprang into the +breach and prepared to make a desperate charge against the platoons +of the fire. This was not all that was needed to be done. From +the "Barbary Coast," as the resort of the vicious and criminal +classes was called, hordes of wretches poured out as soon as night +fell, seeking to slip through the guards and loot stores and rob +the dead in the burning section. Orders were given to the soldiers +to kill all who were engaged in such work, and these orders were +carried out. An associated Press reporter saw three of these +thieves shot and fatally wounded, and doubtless others of them were +similarly dealt with elsewhere. + +A band of fire-fighters was quickly organized by the Mayor and +Chief of Police, and the devoted firemen put themselves in the face +of the flames, determined to do their utmost to stay them in their +course. Cut off from the use of their accustomed engines and water +streams, which might have been effective if brought into play at +the beginning of the struggle, there was nothing to work with but +the dynamite cartridge and the gunpowder mine, and they set bravely +to work to do what they could with these. On every side the roar +of explosions could be heard, and the crash of falling walls came +to the ear, while people were forced to leave buildings which still +stood, but which it was decided must be felled. Frequently a crash +of stone and brick, followed by a cloud of dust, gave warning to +pedestrians that destruction was going on in the forefront of the +flames, and that travel in such localities was unsafe. + + +FIGHTING THE FLAMES. + + +All through the night of Wednesday and the morning of Thursday this +work went on, hopelessly but resolutely. During the following day +blasts could be heard in different sections at intervals of a few +minutes, and buildings not destroyed by fire were blown to atoms, +but over the gaps jumped the live flames, and the disheartened +fire-fighters were driven back step by step; but they continued the +work with little regard for their own safety and with unflinching +desperation. + +One instance of the peril they ran may be given. Lieutenant +Charles O. Pulis, commanding the Twenty-fourth Company of Light +Artillery, had placed a heavy charge of dynamite in a building at +Sixth and Jesse Streets. For some reason it did not explode, and +he returned to relight the fuse, thinking it had become +extinguished. While he was in the building the explosion took +place, and he received injuries that seemed likely to prove fatal, +his skull being fractured and several bones broken, while he was +injured internally. In the early morning, when the fire reached +the municipal building on Portsmouth Square, the nurses, with the +aid of soldiers, got out fifty bodies which were in the temporary +morgue and a number of patients from the receiving hospital. Just +after they reached the street with their gruesome charge a building +was blown up, and the flying bricks and splinters came falling upon +them. The nurses fortunately escaped harm, but several of the +soldiers were hurt, and had to be taken with the other patients to +the out-of-doors Presidio hospital. + +The Southern Pacific Hospital, at Fourteenth and Missouri Streets, +was among the buildings destroyed by dynamite, the patients having +been removed to places of safety, and the Linda Vista and the +Pleasanton, two large family hotels on Jones Street, in the better +part of the city, were also among those blown up to stay the +progress of the conflagration. + + +THE STRUGGLE AGAINST THE FIRE. + + +The fire had continued to creep onward and upward until it reached +the summit of Nob Hill, a district of splendid residences, and +threatened the handsome Fairmount Hotel, then the headquarters of +the Municipal Council, acting as a Committee of Public Safety. As +day broke the flames seized upon this beautiful structure, and the +Council was forced to retreat to new quarters. They finally met in +the North End Police Station, on Sacramento Street, and there +entered actively upon their duties of seeking to check the progress +of the flames, maintain order in the city and control and direct +the host of fugitives, many of whom, still in a state of semi- +panic, were moving helplessly to and fro and sadly needed wise +counsels and a helping hand. + +The fire-fighters meanwhile kept up their indefatigable work under +the direction of the Mayor and the chief of their department. The +engines almost from the start had proved useless from lack of +water, and were either abandoned or moved to the outlying +districts, in the vain hope that the water mains might be repaired +in time to permit of a final stand against the whirlwind march of +the flames. The cloud of despair grew darker still as the report +spread that the city's supply of dynamite had given out. + +"No more dynamite! No more dynamite!" screamed a fireman as he ran +up Ellis Street past the doomed Flood building at two o'clock on +Friday morning, tears standing in his smoke-smirched eyes. + +"No more dynamite! O God! no more dynamite! We are lost!" moaned +the throng that heard his despairing words. + + +A NEW SUPPLY OF EXPLOSIVES. + + +So, at that hour, the supply of the explosive exhausted, and not a +dozen streams of water being thrown in the entire fire zone, the +stunned firemen and the stupefied people stood helpless with their +eyes fixed in despair upon the swiftly creeping flames. + +Had all been like these the entire city would have been doomed, but +there were those at the head of affairs who never for a moment gave +up their resolution. Dynamite and giant powder were to be had in +the Presidio military reservation, and a requisition upon the army +authorities was made. The louder reverberations as the day +advanced and night came on showed that a fresh supply had been +obtained, and that a new and determined campaign against the +conflagration had been entered upon. Hitherto much of the work had +been ignorantly and carelessly done, and by the hasty and premature +use of explosives more harm than good had been occasioned. + +As the fire continued to spread in spite of the heroic work of the +fighting corps, the Committee of Safety called a meeting at noon on +Friday and decided to blow up all the residences on the east side +of Van Ness Avenue, between Golden Gate and Pacific Avenues, a +distance of one mile. Van Ness Avenue is one of the most +fashionable streets of the city and has a width of 125 feet, a fact +which led to the idea that a safety line might be made here too +broad for the flames to cross. + +The firemen, therefore, although exhausted from over twenty-four +hours' work and lack of food, determined to make a desperate stand +at this point. They declared that should the fire cross Van Ness +Avenue and the wind continue its earlier direction toward the west, +the destruction of San Francisco would be virtually complete. The +district west of Van Ness Avenue and north of McAllister +constitutes the finest part of the metropolis. Here are located +all of the finer homes of the well-to-do and wealthier classes, and +the resolution to destroy them was the last resort of desperation. + +Hundreds of police, regiments of soldiers and scores of volunteers +were sent into the doomed district to warn the people to flee. +They heroically responded to the demand of law and went bravely on +their way, leaving their loved homes and trudging painfully over +the pavements with the little they could carry away of their +treasured possessions. + +The reply of a grizzled fire engineer standing at O'Farrell Street +and Van Ness Avenue, beside a blackened engine, may not have been +as terse as that of Hugo's guardsman at Waterloo, but the pathos of +it must have been as great. In answer to the question of what they +proposed to do, he said: + +"We are waiting for it to come. When it gets here we will make one +more stand. If it crosses Van Ness Avenue the city is gone." + + +THE SAVERS OF THE CITY. + + +Yet the work now to be done was much too important to be left to +the hands of untrained volunteers. Skilled engineers were needed, +men used to the scientific handling of explosives, and it was men +of this kind who finally saved what is left to-day of the city. +Three men saved San Francisco, so far as any San Francisco existed +after the fire had worked its will, these three constituting the +dynamite squad who faced and defied the demon at Van Ness Avenue. + +When the burning city seemed doomed and the flames lit the sky +farther and farther to the west, Admiral McCalla sent a trio of his +most trusted men from Mare Island with orders to check the +conflagration at any cost of property. With them they brought a +ton and a half of guncotton. The terrific power of the explosive +was equal to the maniac determination of the fire. Captain +MacBride was in charge of the squad, Chief Gunner Adamson placed +the charges and the third gunner set them off. + +Stationing themselves on Van Ness Avenue, which the conflagration +was approaching with leaps and bounds from the burning business +section of the city, they went systematically to work, and when +they had ended a broad open space, occupied only by the dismantled +ruins of buildings, remained of what had been a long row of +handsome and costly residences, which, with all their treasures of +furniture and articles of decoration, had been consigned to hideous +ruin. + +The thunderous detonations, to which the terrified city listened +all that dreadful Friday night, meant much to those whose ears were +deafened by them. A million dollars' worth of property, noble +residences and worthless shacks alike, were blown to drifting dust, +but that destruction broke the fire and sent the raging flames back +over their own charred path. The whole east side of Van Ness +Avenue, from the Golden Gate to Greenwich, a distance of twenty-two +blocks, or a mile and a half, was dynamited a block deep, though +most of the structures as yet had stood untouched by spark or +cinder. Not one charge failed. Not one building stood upon its +foundation. + +Unless some second malicious miracle of nature should reverse the +direction of the west wind, by nine o'clock it was felt that the +populous district to the west, blocked with fleeing refugees and +unilluminated except by the disastrous glare on the water front, +was safe. Every pound of guncotton did its work, and though the +ruins burned, it was but feebly. From Golden Gate Avenue north the +fire crossed the wide street in but one place. That was at the +Claus Spreckels place, on the corner of California Street. + +There the flames were writhing up the walls before the dynamiters +could reach the spot. Yet they made their way to the foundations, +carrying their explosives, despite the furnace-like heat. The +charge had to be placed so swiftly and the fuse lit in such a hurry +that the explosion was not quite successful from the trained +viewpoint of the gunners. But though the walls still stood, it was +only an empty victory for the fire, as bare brick and smoking ruins +are poor food for flames. + +Captain MacBride's dynamiting squad had realized that a stand was +hopeless except on Van Ness Avenue, their decision thus coinciding +with that of the authorities. They could have forced their +explosives farther in the burning section, but not a pound of +guncotton could be or was wasted. The ruined blocks of the wide +thoroughfare formed a trench through the clustered structures that +the conflagration, wild as it was, could not leap. Engines pumping +brine through Fort Mason from the bay completed the little work +that the guncotton had left, but for three days the haggard-eyed +firemen guarded the flickering ruins. + +The desolate waste straight through the heart of the city remained +a mute witness to the most heroic and effective work of the whole +calamity. Three men did this, and when their work was over and +what stood of the city rested quietly for the first time, they +departed as modestly as they had come. They were ordered to save +San Francisco, and they obeyed orders, and Captain MacBride and his +two gunners made history on that dreadful night. + +They stayed the march of the conflagration at that critical point, +leaving it no channel to spread except along the wharf region, in +which its final force was spent. One side of Van Ness Avenue was +gone; the other remained, the fire leaping the broad open space +only feebly in a few places, where it was easily extinguished. + +In this connection it is well to put on record an interesting +circumstance. This is that there is one place within pistol shot +of San Francisco that the earthquake did not touch, that did not +lose a chimney or feel a tremor. That spot is Alcatraz Island. +Despite the fact that the island is covered with brick buildings, +brick forts and brick chimneys, not a brick was loosened nor a +crack made nor a quiver felt. When the scientist comes to write he +will have his hands full explaining why Alcatraz did not have any +physical knowledge of the event. It was as if New York were to be +shaken to its foundation, and Governor's Island, quietly pursuing +its military routine, should escape without a qualm. + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +The Reign of Destruction and Devastation + + +Rarely, in the whole history of mankind, has a great city been +overwhelmed by destruction so suddenly and awfully as was San +Francisco. One minute its inhabitants slept in seeming safety and +security. Another minute passed and the whole great city seemed +tumbling around them, while sights of terror met the eyes of the +awakened multitude and sounds of horror came to their ears. The +roar of destruction filled the air as the solid crust of the earth +lifted and fell and the rocks rose and sank in billowing waves like +those of the open sea. + +Not all, it is true, were asleep. There was the corps of night +workers, whose duties keep them abroad till day dawns. There were +those whose work calls them from their homes in the early morn. +People of this kind were in the streets and saw the advent of the +reign of devastation in its full extent. From the story of one of +these, P. Barrett, an editor on the Examiner, we select a thrilling +account of his experience on that morning of awe. + + +AN EDITOR'S NARRATIVE. + + +"I have seen this whole, great horror. I stood with two other +members of the Examiner staff on the corner of Market Street, +waiting for a car. Newspaper duties had kept us working until five +o'clock in the morning. Sunlight was coming out of the early +morning mist. It spread its brightness on the roofs of the +skyscrapers, on the domes and spires of churches, and blazed along +up the wide street with its countless banks and stores, its +restaurants and cafes. In the early morning the city was almost +noiseless. Occasionally a newspaper wagon clattered up the street +or a milk wagon rumbled along. One of my companions had told a +funny story. We were laughing at it. We stopped--the laugh +unfinished on our lips. + +"Of a sudden we had found ourselves staggering and reeling. It was +as if the earth was slipping gently from under our feet. Then came +a sickening swaying of the earth that threw us flat upon our faces. +We struggled in the street. We could not get on our feet. + +"I looked in a dazed fashion around me. I saw for an instant the +big buildings in what looked like a crazy dance. Then it seemed as +though my head were split with the roar that crashed into my ears. +Big buildings were crumbling as one might crush a biscuit in one's +hand. Great gray clouds of dust shot up with flying timbers, and +storms of masonry rained into the street. Wild, high jangles of +smashing glass cut a sharp note into the frightful roaring. Ahead +of me a great cornice crushed a man as if he were a maggot--a +laborer in overalls on his way to the Union Iron Works, with a +dinner pail on his arm. + +"Everywhere men were on all fours in the street, like crawling +bugs. Still the sickening, dreadful swaying of the earth +continued. It seemed a quarter of an hour before it stopped. As a +matter of fact, it lasted about three minutes. Footing grew firm +again, but hardly were we on our feet before we were sent reeling +again by repeated shocks, but they were milder. Clinging to +something, one could stand. + +"The dust clouds were gone. It was quite dark, like twilight. But +I saw trolley tracks uprooted, twisted fantastically. I saw wide +wounds in the street. Water flooded out of one. A deadly odor of +gas from a broken main swept out of the other. Telegraph poles +were rocked like matches. A wild tangle of wires was in the +street. Some of the wires wriggled and shot blue sparks. + +"From the south of us, faint, but all too clear, came a horrible +chorus of human cries of agony. Down there in a ramshackle section +of the city the wretched houses had fallen in upon the sleeping +families. Down there throughout the day a fire burned the great +part of whose fuel it is too gruesome a thing to contemplate. + +"That was what came next--the fire. It shot up everywhere. The +fierce wave of destruction had carried a flaming torch with it-- +agony, death and a flaming torch. It was just as if some fire +demon was rushing from place to place with such a torch." + + +WRECK AND RUIN. + + +The magnitude of the calamity became fully apparent after the sun +had risen and began to shine warmly and brightly from the east over +the ruined city. Old Sol, who had risen and looked down upon this +city for thousands of times, had never before seen such a spectacle +as that of this fateful morning. Where once rose noble buildings +were now to be seen cracked and tottering walls, fallen chimneys, +here and there fallen heaps of brick and mortar, and out of and +above all the red light of the mounting flames. From the middle of +the city's greatest thoroughfare ruin, only ruin, was to be seen on +all sides. To the south, in hundreds of blocks, hardly a building +had escaped unscathed. The cracked walls of the new Post Office +showed the rending power of the earthquake. A part of the splendid +and costly City Hall collapsed, the roof falling to the courtyard +and the smaller towers tumbling down. Some of the wharves, laden +with goods of every sort, slid into the bay. With them went +thousands of tons of coal. On the harbor front the earth sank from +six to eight inches, and great cracks opened in the streets. + +San Francisco's famous Chinatown, the greatest settlement of the +Celestials on this continent, went down like a house of cards. +When the earthquake had passed this den of squalor and infamy was +no more. The Chinese theatres and joss-houses tumbled into ruins, +rookery after rookery collapsed, and hundreds of their inhabitants +were buried alive. Panic reigned supreme among the fugitives, who +filled the streets in frightened multitudes, dragging from the +wreck whatever they could save of their treasured possessions. +Much the same was the case with the Japanese quarter, which fire +quickly invaded, the people fleeing in terror, carrying on their +backs what few of their household effects they were able to rescue. + +As for the people of Chinatown, however, no one knows or will ever +know the extent of the dread fate that overcame them, for no one +knows the secrets of that dark abode of infamy and crime, whose +inhabitants burrowed underground like so many ants; and hid their +secrets deep in the earth. + + +THE RUIN OF CHINATOWN. + + +W. W. Overton, of Los Angeles, thus describes the Chinatown dens +and the revelations made by the earthquake and the flames: + +"Strange is the scene where San Francisco's Chinatown stood. No +heap of smoking ruins marks the site of the wooden warrens where +the Orientals dwelt in thousands. Only a cavern remains, pitted +with deep holes and lined with dark passageways, from whose depths +come smoke wreaths. White men never knew the depth of Chinatown's +underground city. Many had gone beneath the street level two and +three stories, but now that the place had been unmasked, men may +see where its inner secrets lay. In places one can see passages a +hundred feet deep. + +"The fire swept this Mongolian quarter clean. It left no shred of +the painted wooden fabric. It ate down to the bare ground, and +this lies stark, for the breezes have taken away the light ashes. +Joss houses and mission schools, groceries and opium dens, gambling +resorts and theatres, all of them went. These buildings blazed up +like tissue paper. + +"From this place I saw hundreds of crazed yellow men flee. In +their arms they bore opium pipes, money bags, silks and children. +Beside them ran the trousered women and some hobbled painfully. +These were the men and women of the surface. Far beneath the +street levels in those cellars and passageways were other lives. +Women, who never saw the day from their darkened prisons, and their +blinking jailors were caught and eaten by the flames." + +Devastation spread widely on all sides, ruining the homes of the +rich as well as of the poor, of Americans as well as of Europeans +and Asiatics, the marts of trade, the haunts of pleasure, the +realms of science and art, the resorts of thousands of the gay +population of the Golden State metropolis. To attempt to tell the +whole story of destruction and ruin would be to describe all for +which San Francisco stood. Science suffered in the loss of the San +Francisco Academy of Sciences, which was destroyed with its +invaluable contents. This building, erected fifteen years ago at a +cost of $500,000, was a seven-story building with a rich collection +of objects of science. Much of the academy's contents can never be +replaced. It represented the work of many years. There was a rare +collection of Pacific Sea birds which was the most valuable of its +kind in the world. In fact, the entire collection of birds ranked +very high, was visited by ornithologists from every country, and +was the pride of the city. The academy was founded in 1850, James +Lick, the same man who endowed the Lick Observatory, giving it +$1,000,000, so it was on a prosperous footing. It will take many +years of active labor to replace the losses of an hour or two of +the reign of fire in this institution, while much that it held is +gone beyond restoration. + + +LOSS TO ART AND SCIENCE. + + +Art suffered as severely as science, the valuable collections in +private and public buildings being nearly all destroyed. We have +spoken of the rare paintings burned in the Bohemian Club building. +The collections on Nob's Hill suffered as severely. When the +mansions here, the Fairmount Hotel and Mark Hopkins Institute were +approached by the flames, many attempts were made to remove some of +the priceless works of art from the buildings. A crowd of soldiers +was sent to the Flood and the Huntington mansions and the Hopkins +Institute to rescue the paintings. From the Huntington home and +the Flood mansion canvases were cut from the framework with knives. +The collections in the three buildings, valued in the hundreds of +thousands, in great part were destroyed, few being saved from the +ravages of the fire. + +The destruction of the libraries, with their valuable collections +of books, was also a very serious loss to the city and its people. +Of these there were nine of some prominence, the Sutro Library +containing many rare books among its 200,000 volumes, while that of +the Mechanics Institute possessed property valued at $2,000,000. +The Public Library occupied a part of the City Hall, the new +building proposed by the city, with aid to the extent of $750,000 +by Andrew Carnegie, being fortunately still in embryo. + +In the burning of the banks the losses were limited to the +buildings, their money and other valuables being securely locked in +fireproof vaults. But these became so heated by the flames that it +was necessary to leave them to a gradual cooling for days, during +which their treasures were unavailable, and those with deposits, +small or large, were obliged to depend on the benevolence of the +nation for food, such wealth as was left to them being locked up +beyond their reach. It was the same with the United States Sub- +Treasury, which was entirely destroyed by fire, its vaults, which +contained all the cash on hand, being alone preserved. Guards were +put over these to protect their contents against possible loss by +theft. + +One serious effect of the conflagration was the general +disorganization of the telegraph system. News items were sent over +the wires, but private messages inquiring about missing friends for +days failed to reach the parties concerned or to bring any return. + +That the world received news of the San Francisco disaster during +the dread day after the earthquake is due in part to the courage of +the telegraph operators, who stuck to their posts and, continued to +send news and other messages in spite of great personal danger. + +The operators and officials of the Postal Telegraph Company +remained in the main office of the company, at the corner of Market +and Montgomery Streets, opposite the Palace Hotel, until they were +ordered out of it because of the danger of the dynamite explosions +in the immediate vicinity. The men proceeded to Oakland, across +the bay, and took possession of the office there. That night the +company operated seven wires from Oakland, all messages from the +city being taken across the bay in boats. As the days passed on +the service gradually improved, but a week or more passed away +before the general service of the company became satisfactory. + + +THE DANGER FROM THIRST. + + +Such news as came from the city was full of tales of horror. For a +number of days one of the chief sources of trouble was from thirst. +Although the earthquake shocks had broken water mains in probably +hundreds of places, strange to say, no water, or very little at +least, appeared on the surface of the ground. Public fountains on +Market Street gave out no relief to the thirsty thousands. At +Powell and Market Streets a small stream of water spurted up +through the cobblestones and formed a muddy pool, at which the +thirsty were glad enough to drink. The soldiers, disregarding the +order not to let people move about, permitted bucket brigades to go +forth and bring back water to relieve the women and the crying +children. To reach the water it was necessary sometimes to go a +mile to one of the four reservoirs which top the hills. + +Here is a story told by one observer of incidents in the city +during the fire: + +"I talked to one man who slept in Alta Plaza. The fire was going +on in the district south of them, and at intervals all night +exhausted fire-fighters made their way to the plaza and dropped, +with the breath out of them, among the huddled people and the +bundles of household goods. The soldiers, who are administering +affairs with all the justice of judges and all the devotion of +heroes, kept three or four buckets of water, even from the women, +for these men, who kept coming all night long. There was a little +food, also kept by the soldiers for these emergencies, and the +sergeant had in his charge one precious bottle of whisky, from +which he doled out drinks to those who were utterly exhausted. + +"Over in a corner of the plaza a band of men and women were +praying, and one fanatic, driven crazy by horror, was crying out at +the top of his voice: + +"'The Lord sent it, the Lord!' + +"His hysterical crying got in the nerves of the soldiers and bade +fair to start a panic among the women and children, so the sergeant +went over and stopped it by force. All night they huddled together +in this hell, with the fire making it bright as day on all sides; +and in the morning the soldiers, using their sense again, +commandeered a supply of bread from a bakery, sent out another +water squad, and fed the refugees with a semblance of breakfast. + +"There was one woman in the crowd who had been separated from her +husband in a rush of the smoke and did not know whether he was +living. The women attended to her all night and in the morning the +soldiers passed her through the lines in her search. A few Chinese +made their way into the crowd. They were trembling, pitifully +scared and willing to stop wherever the soldiers placed them. This +is only a glimpse of the horrible night in the parks and open +places. + +"We learn here that many of the well-to-do people in the upper +residence district have gathered in the strangers from the highways +and byways and given them shelter and comfort for the night in +their living rooms and drawing rooms. Shelter seems to have come +more easily than food. Not an ounce of supplies, of course, has +come in for two days, and most of the permanent stores are in the +hands of the soldiers, who dole them out to all comers alike. But +the hungry cannot always find the military stores and the news has +not gotten about, since there are no newspapers and no regular +means of communication. + +"An Italian tells me that he was taken in by a family living in a +three-story house in the fashionable Pacific Avenue. There were +twenty refugees who passed the night in the drawing room of that +house, whose mistress took down hangings to make them comfortable. +In the morning all the food that was left over in that home of +wealth was enough flour and baking powder to shake together a +breakfast for the refugees. They were hardly ready to leave that +house when the fire came their way, and the people of the house, +together with the refugees, who included two Chinese, made their +way to the open ground of the Presidio. With them streamed a +procession of folks carrying valuables in bundles. + +"There came out, too, tales of both heroism and crime. The firemen +had been at it for thirty-six hours under such conditions as +firemen never before faced, and they do little more than give +directions, while the volunteers, thousands of young Western men +who have remained to see it through, do the work. The troops have +all that they can do to handle the crowds in the streets and +prevent panics. The work of dynamiting, tearing down and rescuing +is in the hands of the volunteers. + +"This morning an eddy of flame from the edge of the burning +wholesale district ran up the slope of Russian Hill, the highest +eminence in the city. All along the edge of that hill and up the +slopes are little frame houses which hold Italians and Mexicans. A +corps of volunteer aides ran along the edge of the fire, warning +people out of the houses. But the flames ran too fast and three +women were caught in the upper story of an old frame house. A +young man tore a rail from a fence, managed to climb it, and +reached the window. He bundled one woman out and slid her down the +rail; then the roof caught fire. He seized another woman and +managed to drop her on the rail, down which she slid without +hurting herself a great deal. But the roof fell while he was +struggling with another woman and they fell together into the +flames. There must have been hundreds of such heroisms and dozens +of such catastrophes. We are so drunken and dulled by horror that +we take such stories calmly now. We are saturated." + + +HOW LOOTING WAS HINDERED. + + +One thing to be strictly guarded against in those days of +destruction was the outbreak of lawlessness. A city as large as +San Francisco is sure to hold a large number of the brigands of +civilization, a horde who need to be kept under strict discipline +at all times, and especially when calamity lets down for the time +being the bars of the law, at which time many of the usually law- +abiding would join their ranks if any license were allowed. The +authorities made haste to guard against this and certain other +dangers, Mayor Schmitz issuing on Wednesday the following +proclamation: + +"The Federal troops, the members of the regular police force and +special police officers have been authorized to kill any and all +persons engaged in looting or in the commission of any other crime. + +"I have directed all the gas and electric lighting companies not to +turn on gas or electricity until I order them to do so. You may, +therefore, expect the city to remain in darkness for an indefinite +time. + +"I request all citizens to remain at home from darkness until +daylight every night until order is restored. + +"I warn all citizens of the danger of fire from damaged or +destroyed chimneys, broken or leaking gas pipes or fixtures or any +like causes." + +He also ordered that no lights should be used in the houses and no +fires built in the houses until the chimneys had been inspected and +repaired. + +There was need of vigilance in this direction, for the vandals were +quickly at work. Routed out from their dens along the wharves, the +rats of the waterfront, the drifters on the back eddy of +civilization, crawled out intent on plunder. Early in the day a +policeman caught one of these men creeping through the window of a +small bank on Montgomery Street and shot him dead. But the police +were kept too busy at other necessary duties to devote much time to +these wretches, and for a time many of them plundered at will, +though some of them met with quick and sure retribution. + + +STORIES BY SIGHTSEERS. + + +One onlooker says: "Were it not for the fact that the soldiers in +charge of the city do not hesitate in shooting down the ghouls the +lawless element would predominate. Not alone do the soldiers +execute the law. On Wednesday afternoon, in front of the Palace +Hotel, a crowd of workers in the mines discovered a miscreant in +the act of robbing a corpse of its jewels. Without delay he was +seized, a rope obtained, and he was strung up to a beam that was +left standing in the ruined entrance of the hotel. No sooner had +he been hoisted up and a hitch taken in the rope than one of his +fellow-criminals was captured. Stopping only to obtain a few yards +of hemp, a knot was quickly tied, and the wretch was soon adorning +the hotel entrance by the side of the other dastard. + +"These are the only two instances I saw, but I heard of many that +were seen by others. The soldiers do all they can, and while the +unspeakable crime of robbing the dead is undoubtedly being +practiced, it would be many times as prevalent were it not for the +constant vigilance on all sides, as well as the summary justice." + +Another observer tells of an instance of this summary justice that +came under his eyes: + +"At the corner of Market and Third Streets on Wednesday I saw a man +attempting to cut the fingers from the hand of a dead woman in +order to secure the rings which adorned the stiffened fingers. +Three soldiers witnessed the deed at the same time and ordered the +man to throw up his hands. Instead of obeying the command he drew +a revolver from his pocket and began to fire at his pursuer without +warning. The three soldiers, reinforced by half a dozen uniformed +patrolmen, raised their rifles to their shoulders and fired. With +the first shots the man fell, and when the soldiers went to the +body to dump it into an alley nine bullets were found to have +entered it." + +The warning this severity gave was accentuated in one instance in a +most effective manner. On a pile of bricks, stones and rubbish was +thrown the body of a man shot through the heart, and on his chest +was pinned this placard: + +"Take warning!" + +Those of the ghouls who saw this were likely to desist from their +detestable work, unless they valued spoils more than life. + +Willis Ames, a Salt Lake City man, tells of the kind of justice +done to thieves, as it came under his observation: + +"I saw man after man shot down by the troops. Most of these were +ghouls. One man made the trooper believe that one of the dead +bodies lying on a pile of rocks was his mother, and he was +permitted to go up to the body. Apparently overcome by grief, he +threw himself across the corpse. In another instant the soldiers +discovered that he was chewing the diamond earrings from the ears +of the dead woman. 'Here is where you get what is coming to you,' +said one of the soldiers, and with that he put a bullet through the +ghoul. The diamonds were found in the man's mouth afterward." + +Others were shot to save them from the horror of being burned +alive. Max Fast, a garment worker, tells of such an instance. He +says: + +"When the fire caught the Windsor Hotel at Fifth and Market Streets +there were three men on the roof, and it was impossible to get them +down. Rather than see the crazed men fall in with the roof and be +roasted alive the military officer directed his men to shoot them, +which they did in the presence of 5,000 people." + +He further states: "At Jefferson Square I saw a fatal clash between +the military and the police. A policeman ordered a soldier to take +up a dead body to put it in the wagon, and the soldier ordered the +policeman to do it. Words followed, and the soldier shot the +policeman dead." + +Among the many stories of this character on record is that of a +concerted effort to break into and rob the Mint, which led to the +death of fourteen men, who were shot down by the guard in charge. +They had disregarded the command of the officer in charge to +desist. They disobeyed, and the death of nearly the whole of them +followed. + + +DEATH FOR SLIGHT OFFENSE. + + +As may well be imagined, the privilege given to fire at will was +very likely to lead to examples of unjustifiable haste in the use +of the rifle. Such haste is not charged against the United States +troops, but the militia and volunteer guards showed less judgment +in the use of their weapons. Thus we are told that one man was +shot for the minor offense of washing his hands in drinking water +which had been brought with great trouble for the thirsty people +gathered in Columbia Park. It is also said that a bank clerk, +searching the ruins of his bank under orders, was killed by a +soldier who thought he was looting. More than one seems to have +been shot as looters for entering their own homes. + +Among the reports there is one that two men were shot through the +windows of their houses because they disobeyed the general orders +and lit candles, and one woman because she lighted a fire in her +cook stove. Yet, if such unwarranted acts existed, there were +others better deserved. It is said that three men were lined up +and shot before ten thousand people. One was caught taking the +rings from a woman who had fainted, another had stolen a piece of +bread from a hungry child, and the third, little more than a boy, +was found in the act of robbing tents. One thief who escaped the +bullet richly deserved it. He came upon a Miss Logan when lying +unconscious on the floor of the St. Francis Hotel after the +earthquake, and, rather than take the time to wrench some valuable +rings from her hand, cut off the finger bearing them, and left her +to the horrors of the coming fire. + +The climax in the too free use of the rifle came on the 23d, when +Major H. C. Tilden, a prominent member of the General Relief +Committee, was shot and killed in his automobile by members of the +citizens' patrol. Two others in the car were struck by bullets. +The automobile had been used as an ambulance and the Red Cross flag +was displayed on it. The excuse of the shooters was that they did +not see the flag and that the car did not stop when challenged. +This act led to an order forbidding the carrying of firearms by the +citizens' committees and to stricter regulation of the soldiers in +the use of their weapons. + +Later on looting took a new form different from that at first shown +and was practiced by a different class of people. These were the +sightseers, many of them people of prominence, who entered upon a +crusade of relic hunting in Chinatown, gathering and carrying off +from the ashes of this quarter valuable pieces of chinaware, bronze +ornaments, etc. It became necessary to put a stop to this, and on +April 30th four militiamen were arrested while digging in the ruins +of the Chinese bazaars, and others were frightened away by shots +fired over their heads. A strong military line was then drawn +around the district, and this last resource of the looter came to +an end. + + + +CHAPTER V. + +The Panic Flight of a Homeless Host. + + +The scene that was visible in the streets of San Francisco on that +dread Wednesday morning was one to make the strongest shudder with +horror. Those three minutes of devastating earth tremors were +moments never to be forgotten. In such a time it is the human +instinct to get into the open air, and the people stumbled from +their heaving and quivering houses to find even the solid earth was +swaying and rising and falling, so that here and there great rents +opened in the streets. To the panic-stricken people the minutes +that followed seemed years of terror. Doubtless some among them +died of sheer fright and more went mad with terror. There was a +roar in the air like a burst of thunder, and from all directions +came the crash of falling walls. They would run forward, then +stop, as another shock seemed to take the earth from under their +feet, and many of them flung themselves face downward on the ground +in an agony of fear. + +Two or three minutes seemed to pass before the fugitives found +their voices. Then the screams of women and the wild cries of men +rent the air, and with one impulse the terror-stricken host fled +toward the parks, to get themselves as far as possible from the +tottering and falling walls. These speedily became packed with +people, most of them in the night clothes in which they had leaped +or been flung from their beds, screaming and moaning at the little +shocks that at intervals followed the great one. The dawn was just +breaking. The gas and electric mains were gone and the street +lamps were all out. The sky was growing white in the east, but +before the sun could fling his early rays from the horizon there +came another light, a lurid and threatening one, that of the flames +that had begun to rise in the warehouse district. + +The braver men and those without families to watch over set out for +this endangered region, half dressed as they were. In the early +morning light they could see the business district below them, many +of the buildings in ruins and the flames showing redly in five or +six places. Through the streets came the fire engines, called from +the outlying districts by a general alarm. The firemen were not +aware as yet that no water was to be had. + + +THE PANIC IN THE SLUMS. + + +On Portsmouth Square the panic was indescribable. This old tree +plaza, about which the early city was built, is now in the centre +of Chinatown, of the Italian district and of the "Barbary Coast," +the "Tenderloin" of the Western metropolis. It is the chief slum +district of the city. The tremor here ran up the Chinatown hill +and shook down part of the crazy buildings on its southern edge. +It brought ruin also to some of the Italian tenements. Portsmouth +Square became the refuge of the terrified inhabitants. Out from +their underground burrows like so many rats fled the Chinese, +trembling in terror into the square, and seeking by beating gongs +and other noise-making instruments to scare off the underground +demons. Into the square from the other side came the Italian +refugees. The panic became a madness, knives were drawn in the +insanity of the moment, and two Chinamen were taken to the morgue, +stabbed to death for no other reason than pure madness. Here on +one side dwelt 20,000 Chinese, and on the other thousands of +Italians, Spaniards and Mexicans, while close at hand lived the +riff-raff of the "Barbary Coast." + +Seemingly the whole of these rushed for that one square of open +ground, the two streams meeting in the centre of the square and +heaping up on its edges. There they squabbled and fought in the +madness of panic and despair, as so many mad wolves might have +fought when caught in the red whirl of a prairie fire, until the +soldiers broke in and at the bayonet's point brought some semblance +of order out of the confusion of panic terror. + +This scene in Portsmouth Square but illustrated the madness of fear +everywhere prevailing. On every side thousands were fleeing from +the roaring furnace that minute by minute seemed to extend its +boundaries. + + +THE FLIGHT FOR SAFETY. + + +In the awful scramble for safety the half-crazed survivors +disregarded everything but the thought of themselves and their +property. In every excavation and hole throughout the north beach +householders buried household effects, throwing them into ditches +and covering the holes. Attempts were made to mark the graves of +the property so that it could be recovered after the flames were +appeased. + +The streets were filled with struggling people, some crying and +weeping and calling for missing loved ones. Crowding the sidewalks +were thousands of householders attempting to drag some of their +effects to places of safety. In some instances men with ropes were +dragging trunks, tandem style, while others had sewing machines +strapped to the trunks. Again, women were rushing for the hills, +carrying on their arms only the family cat or a bird cage. + +There were two ideas in the minds of the fugitives, and in many +cases these two only. One of these was to escape to the open +ground of Golden Gate Park and the Presidio reservation; the other +was to reach the ferry and make their way out of the seemingly +doomed city. + +At the ferry building a crowd numbering thousands gathered, begging +for food and transportation across the bay. Hundreds had not even +the ten cents fare to Oakland. Most of the refugees at this point +were Chinamen and Italians, who had fled from their burned +tenements with little or no personal property. + +Residents of the hillsides in the central portion of the city +seemingly were safe from the inferno of flames that was consuming +the business section. They watched the towering mounds of flames, +and speculated as to the extent of the territory that was doomed. +Suddenly there was whispered alarm up and down the long line of +watchers, and they hurried away to drag clothing, cooking utensils +and scant provisions through the streets. From Grant Avenue the +procession moved westward. Men and women dragged trunks, packed +huge bundles of blankets, boxes of provisions--everything. Wagons +could not be hired except by paying the most extortionate rates. + +"Thank Heaven for the open space of the Presidio and for Golden +Gate Park!" was the unspoken thank-offering of many hearts. The +great park, with its thousand and more acres of area, extending +from the thinly populated part of the city across the sand dunes to +the Pacific, seemed in that awful hour a God-given place of refuge. +Near it and extending to the Golden Gate channel is the Presidio +military reservation, containing 1,480 acres, and with only a few +houses on its broad extent. Here also was a place of safety, +provided that the forests which form a part of its area did not +burn. + + +THE EXODUS FROM THE BURNING CITY. + + +To these open spaces, to the suburbs, in every available direction, +the fugitives streamed, in thousands, in tens of thousands, finally +in hundreds of thousands, safety from those towering flames, from +the tottering walls of their dwellings, from a possible return of +the earthquake, their one overmastering thought. There were many +persons with scanty clothing, women in underskirts and thin waists +and men in shirt sleeves. Many women carried children, while +others wheeled baby carriages. It was a strange and weird +procession, that kept up unceasingly all that dreadful day and +through the night that followed, as the all-conquering flames +spread the area of terror. + +At intervals news came of what was doing behind the smoke cloud. +The area of the flames spread all night. People who had decided +that their houses were outside of the dangerous area and had +decided to pass the night, even after the terrible experience of +the shake-up, under their roofs, hourly gave up the idea and +struggled to the parks. There they lay in blankets, their choicest +valuables by their sides, and the soldiers kept watch and order. +Many lay on the bare grass of the park, with nothing between them +and the chill night air. Fortunately, the weather was clear and +mild, but among those who lay under the open sky were men and women +who were delicately reared, accustomed all their lives to luxurious +surroundings, and these must have suffered severely during that +night of terror. + +The fire was going on in the district south of them, and at +intervals all night exhausted fire-fighters made their way to the +plaza and dropped, with the breath out of them, among the huddled +people and the bundles of household goods. The soldiers, who were +administering affairs with all the justice of judges and all the +devotion of heroes, kept three or four buckets of water, even from +the women, for these men, who continued to come all the night long. +There was a little food, also kept by the soldiers for these +emergencies, and the sergeant had in his charge one precious bottle +of whisky, from which he doled out drinks to those who were utterly +exhausted. + +But there was no panic. The people were calm, stunned. They did +not seem to realize the extent of the calamity. They heard that +the city was being destroyed; they told each other in the most +natural tone that their residences were destroyed by the flames, +but there was no hysteria, no outcry, no criticism. + +The trip to the hills and to the water front was one of terrible +hardship. Famishing women and children and exhausted men were +compelled to walk seven miles around the north shore in order to +avoid the flames and reach the ferries. Many dropped to the street +under the weight of their loads, and willing fathers and husbands, +their strength almost gone, strove to pick up and urge them forward +again. + +In the panic many mad things were done. Even soldiers were obliged +in many instances to prevent men and women, made insane from the +misfortune that had engulfed them, from rushing into doomed +buildings in the hope of saving valuables from the ruins. In +nearly every instance such action resulted in death to those who +tried it. At Larkin and Sutter Streets, two men and a woman broke +from the police and rushed into a burning apartment house, never to +reappear. + +The rush to the parks and the dunes was followed in the days that +followed by as wild a rush to the ferries, due to the mad desire to +escape anywhere, in any way, from the burning city. + + +THE WILD RUSH TO THE FERRIES. + + +At the ferry station on Wednesday night there was much confusion. +Mingled in an inextricable mass were people of every race and class +on earth. A common misfortune and hunger obliterated all +distinctions. Chinese, lying on pallets of rags, slept near +exhausted white women with babies in their arms. Bedding, +household furniture of every description, pet animals and trinkets, +luggage and packages of every sort packed almost every foot of +space near the ferry building. Men spread bedding on the pavement +and calmly slept the sleep of exhaustion, while all around a bedlam +of confusion reigned. + +Many of those who sought the ferry on that fatal Wednesday met a +solid wall of flames extending for squares in length and utterly +impassable. In their half insane eagerness to escape some of them +would have rushed into fatal danger but for the soldiers, who +guarded the fire line and forced them back. Only those reached the +ferry who had come in precedence of the flames, or who made a long +detour to reach that avenue of flight. When the news came to the +camps of refugees that it was safe to cross the burned area a +procession began from the Golden Gate Park across the city and down +Market Street, the thoroughfare which had long been the pride of +the citizens, and a second from the Presidio, along the curving +shore line of the north bay, thence southward along the water +front. Throughout these routes, eight miles long, a continuous +flow of humanity dragged its weary way all day and far into the +night amidst hundreds of vehicles, from the clumsy garbage cart to +the modern automobile. Almost every person and every vehicle +carried luggage. Drivers of vehicles were disregardful of these +exhausted, hungry refugees and drove straight through the crowd. +So dazed and deadened to all feeling were some of them that they +were bumped aside by carriage wheels or bumped out of the way by +persons. + + +SCENES OF HUMOR AND PATHOS. + + +As already stated, the scene had its humorous as well as its +pathetic side, and various amusing stories are told by those who +were in a frame of mind to notice ludicrous incidents in the +horrors of the situation. Two race track men met in the drive. + +"Hello, Bill; where are you living now?" asked one. + +"You see that tree over there--that big one?" said Bill. "Well, +you climb that. My room is on the third branch to the left," and +they went away laughing. + +Another observer tells these incidents of the flight: "I saw one +big fat man calmly walking up Market Street, carrying a huge bird +cage, and the cage was empty. He seemed to enjoy looking at the +wrecked buildings. Another man was leading a huge Newfoundland dog +and carrying a kitten in his arms. He kept talking to the kitten. +On Fell Street I noticed an old woman, half dressed, pushing a +sewing machine up the hill. A drawer fell out, and she stopped to +gather the fallen spools. Poor little seamstress, it was now her +all." + +A more amusing instance of the spirit of saving is that told by +another narrator, who says that he saw a lone woman patiently +pushing an upright piano along the pavement a few inches at a time. +Evidently in this case, too, it was the poor soul's one great +treasure on earth. + +He also tells of a guest berating the proprietor of a hotel, a few +minutes after the shock, because he had not obeyed orders to call +him at five o'clock. He vowed he would never stop at that house +again, a vow he might well keep, as the house is no more. + +In one room where two girls were dressing the floor gave way and +one of them disappeared. + +"Where are you, Mary?" screamed her companion. + +"Oh, I'm in the parlor," said Mary calmly, as she wriggled out of +the mass of plaster and mortar below. + +At the handsome residence of Rudolph Spreckels, the wealthy +financier, the lawn was riven from end to end in great gashes, +while the ornamental Italian rail leading to the imposing entrance +was a battered heap. But the family, with a philosophy notable for +the occasion, calmly set up housekeeping on the sidewalk, the women +seated in armchairs taken from the mansion and wrapped in rugs and +coverlets, the silver breakfast service was laid out on the stone +coping and their morning meal spread out on the sidewalk. This, +scene was repeated at other houses of the wealthy, the families too +fearful of another shock to venture within doors. + +Another story of much interest in this connection is told. On +Friday afternoon, two days and some hours after the scene just +narrated, Mrs. Rudolph Spreckels presented her husband with an heir +on the lawn in front of their mansion, while the family were +awaiting the coming of the dynamite squad to blow up their +magnificent residence. An Irish woman who had been called in to +play the part of midwife at a birth elsewhere on Saturday, made a +pertinent comment after the wee one's eyes were opened to the walls +of its tent home. + +"God sends earthquakes and babies," she said, "but He might, in His +mercy, cut out sending them both together." + +There were many pathetic incidents. Families had been sadly +separated in the confusion of the flight. Husbands had lost their +wives--wives had lost their husbands, and anxious mothers sought +some word of their children--the stories were very much the same. +One pretty looking woman in an expensive tailor-made costume badly +torn, had lost her little girl. + +"I don't think anything has happened to her," said she, hopefully. +"She is almost eleven years old, and some one will be sure to take +her in and care for her; I only want to know where she is. That is +all I care about now." + +A well-known young lady of good social position, when asked where +she had spent the night, replied: "On a grave." + +"I thank God, I thank Uncle Sam and the people of this nation," +said a woman, clad in a red woolen wrapper, seated in front of a +tent at the Presidio nursing one child and feeding three others +from a board propped on two bricks. "We have lost our home and all +we had, but we have never been hungry nor without shelter." + +The spirit of '49 was vital in many of the refugees. One man +wanted to know whether the fire had reached his home. He was +informed that there was not a house standing in that section of the +city. He shrugged his shoulders and whistled. + +"There's lots of others in the same boat," as he turned away. + +"Going to build?" repeated one man, who had lost family and home +inside of two hours. "Of course, I am. They tell me that the +money in the banks is still all right, and I have some insurance. +Fifteen years ago I began with these," showing his hands, "and I +guess I'm game to do it over again. Build again, well I wonder." + +Among the many pathetic incidents of the disaster was that of a +woman who sat at the foot of Van Ness Avenue on the hot sands on +the hillside overlooking the bay east of Fort Mason, with four +little children, the youngest a girl of three, the eldest a boy of +ten years. They were destitute of water, food and money. + +The woman had fled, with her children, from a home in flames in the +Mission Street district, and tramped to the bay in the hope of +sighting the ship which she said was about due, of which her +husband was the captain. + +"He would know me anywhere," she said. And she would not move, +although a young fellow gallantly offered his tent, back on a +vacant lot, in which to shelter her children. + + +THE GOLDEN GATE CAMP. + + +In the Golden Gate Park there was the most woefully grotesque camp +of sufferers imaginable. There was no caste, no distinction of +rich and poor, social lines had been obliterated by the common +misfortune, and the late owners of property and wealth were glad to +camp by the side of the day laborer. As for shelter, there were a +few army tents and some others which afforded a fair degree of +comfort, but nine out of ten are the poorest suggestions of tents +made out of bedclothes, rugs, raincoats and in some cases of lace +curtains. None of the tents or huts has a floor, and it is +impossible to see how a large number of women and children can +escape the most disastrous physical effects. + +The unspeakable chaos that prevailed was apparent in no way more +than in the system, or lack of system, of registration and +location. At the entrance to Golden Gate Park stands a billboard, +twenty feet high and a hundred feet long. Originally it bore the +praises of somebody's beer. Covering this billboard, to a height +of ten or twelve feet, were slips of paper, business cards, letter +heads and other notices, addressed to "Those interested," "Friends +and relatives," or to some individual, telling of the whereabouts +of refugees. + +One notice read: "Mrs. Rogers will find her husband in Isidora +Park, Oakland. W. H. Rogers." Another style was this: "Sue, Harry +and Will Sollenberger all safe. Call at No. 250 Twenty-seventh +Avenue." + +There were thousands of these dramatic notices on this billboard, +and one larger than the others read: "Death notices can be left +here; get as many as possible." + +Another method of finding friends and relatives was by printing +notices on vehicles. On the side curtains of a buggy being driven +to Golden Gate Park was the following sign: "I am looking for I. E. +Hall." + +That searchers for lost ones might have the least trouble, all the +tents, here known as camps, were tagged with the names or numbers. +For instance, one tent of bed quilts carried this sign: "No. 40 +Bush Street camp." + +Most of the tents were merely named for the family name of the +occupants, the former streets number usually being given. But +these tent tags told a wonderful story of human nature. A small +army tent bore the name, "Camp Thankful," the one next to it was +placarded "Camp Glory" and a few feet farther on an Irishman had +posted the sign "Camp Hell." + +The cooking was all done on a dozen bricks for a stove, with such +utensils as may usually be picked up in the ordinary residential +alley. But in all of the camps the badge of the eternal feminine +was to be found in the form of small pieces of broken mirrors, or +hand mirrors fastened to trees or tent walls, in some cases the +polished bottom of a tomato can serving the purposes of the +feminine toilet. + +One woman, in whose improvised tent screeched a parrot, sat +ministering to the wounds of the other family pet, a badly singed +cat. The number of canaries, parrots, dogs and cats was one of the +amusing features of the disaster. + +Among the interesting and thrilling incidents of the disaster is +that connected with the telegraph service. For many hours +virtually all the news from San Francisco came over the wires of +the Postal Telegraph Company. The Postal has about fifteen wires +running into San Francisco. They go under the bay in cables from +Oakland, and thence run underground for several blocks down Market +Street to the Postal building. About forty operators are employed +to handle the business, but evidently there was only about one on +duty when the earthquake began. + +What became of him nobody knows. But he seems to have sent the +first word of the disaster. It came over the Postal wires about +nine o'clock, just when the day's business had started in the East. +It will long be preserved in the records of the company. This was +the dispatch: + +"There was an earthquake hit us at 5.13 this morning, wrecking +several buildings and wrecking our offices. They are carting dead +from the fallen buildings. Fire all over town. There is no water +and we lost our power. I'm going to get out of office, as we have +had a little shake every few minutes, and it's me for the simple +life." + +"R., San Francisco, 5.50 A. M." + +"Mr. R." evidently got out, for there was nothing doing for a brief +interval after that. The operator in the East pounded and pounded +at his key, but San Francisco was silent. The Postal people were +wondering if it was all the dream of some crazy operator or a +calamity, when the wire woke up again. It was the superintendent +of the San Francisco force this time. + +"We're on the job, and are going to try and stick," was the way the +first message came from him. + +This was what came over the wire a little later: + +"Terrific earthquake occurred here at 5.13 this morning. A number +of people were killed in the city. None of the Postal people were +killed. They are now carting the dead from the fallen buildings. +There are many fires, with no one to fight them. Postal building +roof wrecked, but not entire building." + +The fire got nearer and nearer to the Postal building. All of the +water mains had been destroyed around the building, the operators +said, and there was no hope if the fire came on. They also said +that they could hear the sound of dynamite blowing up buildings. +All this time the operators were sticking to their posts and +sending and receiving all the business the wires could stand. At +12.45 the wire began to click again with a message for the little +group of waiting officials. + +This message came in jerks: "Fire still coming up Market Street. +It's one block from the Post Office now; back of the Palace Hotel +is a furnace. I am afraid that the Grand Hotel and the Palace +Hotel will get it soon. The Southern Pacific offices on California +Street are safe, so far, but can't tell what will happen. +California Street is on fire. Almost everything east of Montgomery +Street and north of Market Street is on fire now." + +There was a pause, then: "We are beginning to pack up our +instruments." + +"Instruments are all packed up, and we are ready to run," was +another message. It was evident that just one instrument had been +left connected with the world outside. In about ten minutes it +began to click. Those who knew the telegraphers' language caught +the word "Good-bye," and then the ticks stopped. + +At the end of an hour the instrument in the office began to click +again. It was from an electrician by the name of Swain. + +"I'm back in the building, but they are dynamiting the building +next door, and I've got to get out," was the way his message was +translated. Dynamite ended the story, and the Postal's domicile in +San Francisco ceased to exist. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Facing Famine and Praying for Relief. + + +Frightful was the emergency of the vast host of fugitives who fled +in terror from the blazing city of San Francisco to the open gates +of Golden Gate Park and the military reservation of the Presidio. +Food was wanting, scarcely any water was to be had, death by hunger +and thirst threatened more than a quarter million of souls thus +driven without warning from their comfortable and happy homes and +left without food or shelter. Provisions, shelter tents, means of +relief of various kinds were being hurried forward in all haste, +but for several days the host of fugitives had no beds but the bare +ground, no shelter but the open heavens, scarcely a crumb of bread +to eat, scarcely a gill of water to drink. Those first days that +followed the disaster were days of horror and dread. Rich and poor +were mingled together, the delicately reared with the rough sons of +toil to whom privation was no new experience. + +Those who had food to sell sought to take advantage of the +necessities of the suffering by charging famine prices for their +supplies, but the soldiers put a quick stop to this. When Thursday +morning broke, lines of buyers formed before the stores whose +supplies had not been commandeered. In one of these, the first man +was charged 75 cents for a loaf of bread. The corporal in charge +at that point brought his gun down with a slam. + +"Bread is 10 cents a loaf in this shop," he said. + +It went. The soldier fixed the schedule of prices a little higher +than in ordinary times, and to make up for that he forced the +storekeeper to give free food to several hungry people in line who +had no money to pay. In several other places the soldiers used the +same brand of horse sense. + +A man with a loaf of bread in his hand ran up to a policeman on +Washington Street. "Here," he said, "this man is trying to charge +me a dollar for this loaf of bread. Is that fair?" + +"Give it to me," said the policeman. He broke off one end of it +and stuck it in his mouth. "I am hungry myself," he said when he +had his mouth clear. "Take the rest of it. It's appropriated." + +As an example of the prices charged for food and service by the +unscrupulous, we may quote the experience of a Los Angeles +millionaire named John Singleton, who had been staying a day or two +at the Palace Hotel. On Wednesday he had to pay $25 for an express +wagon to carry himself, his wife and her sister to the Casino, near +Golden Gate Park, and on Thursday was charged a dollar apiece for +eggs and a dollar for a loaf of bread. Others tell of having to +pay $50 for a ride to the ferry. + +One of the refugees on the shores of Lake Herced Thursday morning +spied a flock of ducks and swans which the city maintained there +for the decoration of the lake. He plunged into the lake, swam out +to them and captured a fat drake. Other men and boys saw the point +and followed. The municipal ducks were all cooking in five +minutes. + +The soldiers were prompt to take charge of the famine situation, +acting on their own responsibility in clearing out the supplies of +the little grocery stores left standing and distributing them among +the people in need. The principal food of those who remained in +the city was composed of canned goods and crackers. The refugees +who succeeded in getting out of San Francisco were met as soon as +they entered the neighboring towns by representatives of bakers who +had made large supplies of bread, and who immediately dealt them +out to the hungry people. + + +THE FOOD QUESTION URGENT. + + +But the needs of the three hundred thousand homeless and hungry +people in the city could not be met in this way, and immediate +supplies in large quantities were necessary to prevent a reign of +famine from succeeding the ravages of the fire. Danger from thirst +was still more insistent than that from hunger. There was some +food to be had, bakeries were quickly built within the military +reservation there, and General Funston announced that rations would +soon reach the city and the people would be supplied from the +Presidio. But there was scarcely any water to relieve the thirst +of the suffering. Water became the incessant cry of firemen and +people alike, the one wanting it to fight the fire, the other to +drink, but even for the latter the supply was very scant. There +was water in plenty in the reservoirs, but they were distant and +difficult to reach, and all night of the day succeeding the earth +shock wagons mounted with barrels and guarded by soldiers drove +through the park doling out water. There was a steady crush around +these wagons, but only one drink was allowed to a person. + +Toward midnight a black, staggering body of men began to weave +through the entrance. They were volunteer fire-fighters, looking +for a place to throw themselves down and sleep. These men dropped +out all along the line, and were rolled out of the driveways by the +troops. There was much splendid unselfishness here. Women gave up +their blankets and sat up or walked about all night to cover the +exhausted men who had fought fire until there was no more fight in +them. + +The common destitution and suffering had, as we have said, wiped +out all social, financial and racial distinctions. The man who +last Tuesday was a prosperous merchant was obliged to occupy with +his family a little plot of ground that adjoined the open-air home +of a laborer. The white man of California forgot his antipathy to +the Asiatic race, and maintained friendly relations with his new +Chinese and Japanese neighbors. The society belle who Tuesday +night was a butterfly of fashion at the grand opera performance now +assisted some factory girl in the preparation of humble daily +meals. Money had little value. The family that had had foresight +to lay in the largest stock of foodstuffs on the first day of +disaster was rated highest in the scale of wealth. + +A few of the families that could secure wagons were possessors of +cook stoves, but over 95 per cent. of the refugees did their +cooking on little campfires made of brick or stone. Battered +kitchen utensils that the week before would have been regarded as +useless had become articles of high value. In fact, man had come +back to nature and all lines of caste had been obliterated, while +the very thought of luxury had disappeared. It was, in the +exigency of the moment, considered good fortune to have a scant +supply of the barest necessaries of life. + +As for clothing, it was in many cases of the scantiest, while +numbers of the people had brought comfortable clothing and bedding. +Many others had fled in their night garbs, and comparatively few of +these had had the self-possession to return and don their daytime +clothes. As a result there had been much improvisation of garments +suitable for life in the open air, and as the days went on many of +the women arrayed themselves in home-made bloomer costumes, a +sensible innovation under the circumstances and in view of the +active outdoor work they were obliged to perform. + +The grave question to be faced at this early stage was: How soon +would an adequate supply of food arrive from outside points to +avert famine? Little remained in San Francisco beyond the area +swept by the fire, and the available supply could not last more +than a few days. Fresh meat disappeared early on Wednesday and +only canned foods and breadstuffs were left. All the foodstuffs +coming in on the cars were at once seized by order of the Mayor and +added to the scanty supply, the names of the consignees being taken +that this material might eventually be paid for. The bakers agreed +to work their plants to their utmost capacity and to send all their +surplus output to the relief committee. By working night and day +thousands of loaves could be provided daily. A big bakery in the +saved district started its ovens and arranged to bake 50,000 loaves +before night. The provisions were taken charge of by a committee +and sent to the various depots from which the people were being +fed. Instructions were issued by Mayor Schmitz on Thursday to +break open every store containing provisions and to distribute them +to the thousands under police supervision. A policeman reported +that two grocery stores in the neighborhood were closed, although +the clerks were present. "Smash the stores open," ordered the +Mayor, "and guard them." In towns across the bay the master bakers +have met and fixed the price of bread at 5 cents the loaf, with the +understanding that they will refuse to sell to retailers who +attempt to charge famine prices. The committee of citizens in +charge of the situation in the stricken city proposed to use every +effort to keep food down to the ordinary price and check the +efforts of speculators, who in one instance charged as much as +$3.50 for two loaves of bread and a can of sardines. Orders were +issued by the War Department to army officers to purchase at Los +Angeles immediately 200,000 rations and at Seattle 300,000 rations +and hurry them to San Francisco. The department was informed that +there were 120,000 rations at the Presidio, that thousands of +refugees were being sheltered there and that the army was feeding +them. One million rations already had been started to San +Francisco by the department. But in view of the fact that there +were 300,000 fugitives to be fed the supply available was likely to +be soon exhausted. + + +FOOD FOR THE HUNGRY. + + +Such was the state of affairs at the end of the second day of the +great disaster. But meanwhile the entire country had been aroused +by the tidings of the awful calamity, the sympathetic instinct of +Americans everywhere was awakened, and it was quickly made evident +that the people of the stricken city would not be allowed to suffer +for the necessaries of life. On all sides money was contributed in +large sums, the United States Government setting the example by an +immediate appropriation of $1,000,000, and in the briefest possible +interval relief trains were speeding toward the stricken city from +all quarters, carrying supplies of food, shelter tents and other +necessaries of a kind that could not await deliberate action. + +Shelter was needed almost as badly as food, for a host of the +refugees had nothing but their thin clothing to cover them, and, +though the weather at first was fine and mild, a storm might come +at any time. In fact, a rain did come, a severe one, early in the +week after the disaster, pouring nearly all night long on the +shivering campers in the parks, wetting them to the skin and +soaking through the rudely improvised shelters which many of the +refugees had put up. A few days afterward came a second shower, +rendering still more evident the need of haste in providing +suitable shelter. + +All this was foreseen by those in charge, and the most strenuous +efforts were made to provide the absolute necessities of life. +Huge quantities of supplies were poured into the city. From all +parts of California trainloads of food were rushed there in all +haste. A steamer from the Orient laden with food reached the city +in its hour of need; another was dispatched in all haste from +Tacoma bearing $25,000 worth of food and medical supplies, ordered +by Mayor Weaver, of Philadelphia, as a first installment of that +city's contribution. Money was telegraphed from all quarters to +the Governor of California, to be expended for food and other +supplies, and so prompt was the response to the insistent demand +that by Saturday all danger of famine was at an end; the people +were being fed. + + +WATER FOR THE THIRSTY. + + +The broken waterpipes were also repaired with all possible haste, +the Spring Valley Water Company putting about one thousand men at +work upon their shattered mains, and in a very brief time water +began to flow freely in many parts of the residence section and the +great difficulty of obtaining food and water was practically at an +end. Never in the history of the country has there been a more +rapid and complete demonstration of the resourcefulness of +Americans than in the way this frightful disaster was met. + +Food, water and shelter were not the only urgent needs. At first +there was absolutely no sanitary provision, and the danger of an +epidemic was great. This was a peril which the Board of Health +addressed itself vigorously to meet, and steps for improving the +sanitary conditions were hastily taken. Quick provision for +sheltering the unfortunates was also made. Eight temporary +structures, 150 feet in length by 28 feet wide and 13 feet high, +were erected in Golden Gate Park, and in these sheds thousands +found reasonably comfortable quarters. This was but a beginning. +More of these buildings were rapidly erected, and by their aid the +question of shelter was in part solved. The buildings were divided +into compartments large enough to house a family, each compartment +having an entrance from the outside. This work was done under the +control of the engineering department of the United States army, +which had taken steps to obtain a full supply of lumber and had put +135 carpenters to work. Those of the refugees who were without +tents were the first to be provided for in these temporary +buildings. + + +THE CAMPS IN THE PARKS. + + +To those who made an inspection of the situation a few days after +the earthquake, the hills and beaches of San Francisco looked like +an immense tented city. For miles through the park and along the +beaches from Ingleside to the sea wall at North Beach the homeless +were camped in tents--makeshifts rigged up from a few sticks of +wood and a blanket or sheet. Some few of the more fortunate +secured vehicles on which they loaded regulation tents and were, +therefore, more comfortably housed than the great majority. Golden +Gate Park and the Panhandle looked like one vast campaign ground. +It is said that fully 100,000 persons, rich and poor alike, sought +refuge in Golden Gate Park alone, and 200,000 more homeless ones +located at the other places of refuge. + +At the Presidio military reservation, where probably 50,000 persons +were camped, affairs were conducted with military precision. Water +was plentiful and rations were dealt out all day long. The +refugees stood patiently in line and there was not a murmur. This +characteristic was observable all over the city. The people were +brave and patient, and the wonderful order preserved by them proved +of great assistance. In Golden Gate Park a huge supply station had +been established and provisions were dealt out. + +Six hundred men from the Ocean Shore Railway arrived on Saturday +night with wagons and implements to work on the sewer system. +Inspectors were kept going from house to house, examining chimneys +and issuing permits to build fires. In fact, activity manifested +itself in all quarters in the attempt to bring order out of +confusion, and in an astonishingly short time the tented city was +converted from a scene of wretched disorder into one of order and +system. + +At Jefferson Park were camped thousands of people of every class in +life. On the western edge of this park is the old Scott house, +where Mrs. McKinley lay sick for two weeks in 1901. Three times a +day the people all gathered in line before the provision wagons for +their little handouts. "Yesterday," says an observer, "I saw, in +order before the wagons, a Lascar sailor in his turban, about as +low a Chinatown bum as I ever set eyes on, a woman of refined +appearance, a barefooted child, two Chinamen, and a pretty girl. +They were squeezed up together by the line, which extended for a +quarter of a mile. It is civilization in the bare bones. + +"The great and rich are on a level with the poor in the struggle +for bare existence, and over them all is the perfect, unbroken +discipline of the soldiery. They came into the city and took +charge on an hour's notice, they saved the city from itself in the +three days of hell, and but for them the city, even with enough +provisions to feed them in the stores and warehouses, must have +gone hungry for lack of distributive organization." + + +COMEDY AND PATHOS IN THE BREAD LINE. + + +At one of the parks on Tuesday morning a handsomely dressed woman +with two children at her skirts stood in a line of many hundreds +where supplies were being given out. She took some uncooked bacon, +and as she reached for it jewels sparkled on her fingers. One of +the tots took a can of condensed milk, the other a bag of cakes. + +"I have money," she said, "'if I could get it and use it. I have +property, if I could realize on it. I have friends, if I could get +to them. Meantime I am going to cook this piece of bacon on bricks +and be happy." + +She was only one of thousands like her. + +In a walk through the city this note of cheerfulness of the people +in the face of an almost incredible week of horror was to a +correspondent the mitigating element to the awfulness of disaster. + +In the streets of the residential district in the western addition, +which the fire did not reach, women of the houses were cooking +meals on the pavement. In most cases they had moved out the family +ranges, and were preparing the food which they had secured from the +Relief Committee. + +Out on Broderick street, near the Panhandle, a piano sounded. It +was nigh ten o'clock and the stars were shining after the rain. +Fires gleamed up and down through the shrubbery and the refugees +sat huddled together about the flames, with their blankets about +their heads, Apache-like, in an effort to dry out after the wetting +of the afternoon. The piano, dripping with moisture, stood on the +curb, near the front of a cottage which had been wrecked by the +earthquake. + +A youth with a shock of red hair sat on a cracker box and pecked at +the ivories. "Home Ain't Nothing Like This" was thrummed from the +rusting wires with true vaudeville dash and syncopation. "Bill +Bailey," "Good Old Summer Time," "Dixie" and "In Toyland" followed. +Three young men with handkerchiefs wrapped about their throats in +lieu of collars stood near the pianist and with him lifted up their +voices in melody. The harmony was execrable, the time without +excuse, but the songs ran through the trees of the Panhandle, and +the crows, forgetting their misery for a time, joined the strange +chorus. + +The people had their tales of comedy, one being that on the morning +of the fire a richly dressed woman who lived in one of the +aristocratic Sutter Street apartments came hurrying down the +street, faultlessly gowned as to silks and sables, save that one +dainty foot was shod with a high-heeled French slipper and the +other was incased in a laborer's brogan. They say that as she +walked she careened like a bark-rigged ship before a typhoon. + +An hour spent behind the counter of the food supply depot in the +park tennis court yielded rich reward to the seeker after the +outlandish. The tennis court was piled high with the plunder of +several grocery stores and the cargoes of many relief cars. A +square cut in the wire screen permitted of the insertion of a +counter, behind which stood members of the militia acting as food +dispensers. Before the improvised window passed the line of +refugees, a line which stretched back fully 300 yards to Speedway +track. + +"I want a can of condensed cream, so I can feed my baby and my +dog," said a large, florid-faced woman in a gaudy kimono, "and I +don't care for crackers, but you can throw in some potted chicken +if you have it." + +"What's in that bottle over there?" queried the next applicant. +"Tomato ketchup? Well, of all the luck! Say, young man, just give +me three." + +A little gray-haired woman in an India shawl peered timorously +through the window. "Just a little bit of anything you may have +handy, please," she whispered, and she cast a careful eye about to +see of any of her neighbors had recognized her standing there in +the "bread line." + +"Yesterday, at the Western Union office," says one writer, "I saw a +woman drive up in a large motor car and beg that the telegram on +which a boy had asked a delivery fee of twenty-five cents be handed +to her. She said she had not a penny and did not know when she +would have any money, but that as soon as she had any she would pay +for the message. It was given to her, and the manager told me that +there were hundreds of similar cases." + +Many weddings resulted from the disaster. Women driven out of +their homes and left destitute, appealed to the men to whom they +were engaged, and immediate marriages took place. After the first +day of the disaster an increase in the marriage licenses issued was +noticed by County Clerk Cook. This increase grew until seven +marriage licenses were issued in an hour. + +"I don't live anywhere," was the answer given in many cases when +the applicant for a license was asked the locality of his +residence. "I used to live in San Francisco." + +Births seem to have been about as common as marriages, in one night +five children being born in Golden Gate Park. In Buena Vista Park +eight births were recorded and others elsewhere, the population +being thus increased at a rate hardly in accordance with the +exigencies of the situation. + + +THE EXODUS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. + + +We have spoken only of the camps of refugees within the municipal +limits of San Francisco. But in addition to these was the +multitude of fugitives who made all haste to escape from that city. +This was with the full consent of the authorities, who felt that +every one gone lessened the immediate weight upon themselves, and +who issued a strict edict that those who went must stay, that there +could be no return until a counter edict should be made public. + +From the start this was one of the features of the situation. Down +Market Street, once San Francisco's pride, now leading through +piles of tottering walls, piles of still hot bricks and twisted +iron and heaps of smouldering debris, poured a huge stream of +pedestrians. Men bending under the weight of great bundles pushed +baby carriages loaded with bric-a-brac and children. Women toiled +along with their arms full, but a large proportion were able to +ride, for the relief corps had been thoroughly organized and wagons +were being pressed into service from all sides. + +In constant procession they moved toward the ferry, whence the +Southern Pacific was transporting them with baggage free wherever +they wished to go. Automobiles meanwhile shot in all directions, +carrying the Red Cross flag and usually with a soldier carrying a +rifle in the front seat. They had the right of way everywhere, +carrying messages and transporting the ill to temporary hospitals +and bearing succor to those in distress. + +Oakland, the nearest place of resort, on the bay shore opposite San +Francisco, soon became a great city of refuge, fugitives gathering +there until 50,000 or more were sheltered within its charitable +limits. Having suffered very slightly from the earthquake that had +wrecked the great city across the bay, it was in condition to offer +shelter to the unfortunate. All day Wednesday and Thursday a +stream of humanity poured from the ferries, every one carrying +personal baggage and articles saved from the conflagration. +Hundreds of Chinese men, women and children, all carrying baggage +to the limit of their strength, made their way into the limited +Chinatown of Oakland. + +Multitudes of persons besieged the telegraph offices, and the crush +became so great that soldiers were stationed at the doors to keep +them in line and allow as many as possible to find standing room at +the counters. Messages were stacked yards high in the offices +waiting to be sent throughout the world. Every boat from San +Francisco brought hundreds of refugees, carrying luggage and +bedding in large quantities. Many women were bareheaded and all +showed fatigue as the result of sleeplessness and exposure to the +chill air. Hundreds of these persons lined the streets of Oakland, +waiting for some one to provide them with shelter, for which the +utmost possible provision was quickly made. No one was allowed to +go hungry in Oakland and few lacked shelter. At the Oakland First +Presbyterian Church 1,800 were fed and 1,000 people were provided +with sleeping accommodations. Pews were turned into beds. Cots +stood in the aisles, in the gallery and in the Sunday school room. +Every available inch of space was occupied by some substitute for a +bed. + +As the days wore on the number of refugees somewhat decreased. +Although they still came in large numbers, many left on every train +for different points. Requests for free transportation were +investigated as closely as possible and all the deserving were sent +away. Women and children and married men who wished to join their +families in different parts of the State were given preference. +The transportation bureau was on a street corner, where a man stood +on a box and called the names of those entitled to passes. + +Along the principal streets of Oakland there was a picturesque +pilgrimage of former householders, who dragged or carried the +meagre effects they had been able to save. The refugees who could +not be cared for in Oakland made an exodus to Berkeley and other +surrounding cities, where relief committees were actively at work. +Utter despair was pictured on many faces, which showed the effects +of sleepless days and nights, and the want of proper food. + +Oakland was only one of the outside camps of refuge. At Berkeley +over 6,000 refugees sought quarters, the big gymnasium of the State +University being turned into a lodging house, while hundreds were +provided with blankets to sleep in the open air under the +University oaks. The students and professors of the University did +all they could for their relief, and the Citizens' Relief Committee +supplied them with food. + +The same benevolent sympathy was manifested at all the places near +the ruined city which had escaped disaster, this aid materially +reducing that needed within San Francisco itself. + + +WORSHIP IN THE OPEN AIR. + + +Sunday dawned in San Francisco; Sunday in the camp of the refugees. +On a green knoll in Golden Gate Park, between the conservatory and +the tennis courts, a white-haired minister of the Gospel gathered +his flock. It was the Sabbath day and in the turmoil and confusion +the minister did not forget his duty. Two upright stakes and a +cross-piece gave him a rude pulpit, and beside him stood a young +man with a battered brass cornet. Far over the park stole a melody +that drew hundreds of men and women from their tents. Of all +denominations and all creeds, they gathered on that green knoll, +and the men uncovered while the solemn voice repeated the words of +a grand old hymn, known wherever men and women meet to worship the +Lord: + + +"Other refuge have I none, hangs my helpless soul on Thee; +Leave, oh, leave me not alone, still support and comfort me!" + + +A moment before there had been shouting and confusion in the +driveway where some red-striped artillerymen were herding a squad +of gesticulating Chinamen as men herd sheep. The shouting died +away as the minister's voice rose and fell and out of the stillness +came the sobs of women. One little woman in blue was making no +sound, but the tears were streaming down her cheeks. Her husband, +a sturdy young fellow in his shirt sleeves, put his arm about her +shoulders and tried to comfort her as the reading went on. + + +"All my trust on Thee is stayed; all my help from Thee I bring; +Cover my defenseless head with the shadow of Thy wing." + + +Then the cornet took up the air again and those helpless persons +followed it in quivering tones, the white-haired man of God leading +them with closed eyes. When the last verse was over, the minister +raised his hands. + +"Let us pray," said he, and his congregation sank down in the grass +before him. It was a simple prayer, such a prayer as might be +offered by a man without a home or a shelter over his head--and +nothing left to him but an unshaken faith in his Creator. + +"Oh, Lord, Thy ways are past finding out, but we still have faith +in Thee. We know not why Thou hast visited these people and left +them homeless. Thou knowest the reason of this desolation and of +our utter helplessness. We call on Thee for help in the hour of +our great need. Bless the people of this city, the sorrowing ones, +the bereaved, gather them under Thy mighty wing and soothe aching +hearts this day." + +The women were crying again, and one big man dug his knuckles into +his eyes without shame. The man who could have listened to such a +prayer unmoved was not in Golden Gate Park that day. + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +The Frightful Loss of Life and Wealth. + + +While multitudes escaped from toppling buildings and crashing walls +in the dread disaster of that fatal Wednesday morning of April 18th +in San Francisco, hundreds of the less fortunate met their death in +the ruins, and horrifying scenes were witnessed by the survivors. +Many of those who escaped had tales of terror to tell. Mr. J. P. +Anthony, as he fled from the Ramona Hotel, saw a score or more of +people crushed to death, and as he walked the streets at a later +hour saw bodies of the dead being carried in garbage wagons and all +kinds of vehicles to the improvised morgues, while hospitals and +storerooms were already filled with the injured. Mr. G. A. +Raymond, of Tomales, Cal., gives evidence to the same effect. As +he rushed into the street, he says that the air was filled with +falling stones and people around him were crushed to death on all +sides. + +Others gave testimony to the same effect. Samuel Wolf, of Salt +Lake City, tells us that he saved one woman from death in the +hotel. She was rushing blindly toward an open window, from which +she would have fallen fifty feet to the stone pavement below. "On +my way down Market Street," he says, "the whole side of a building +fell out and came so near me that I was covered and blinded by the +dust. Then I saw the first dead come by. They were piled up in an +automobile like carcasses in a butcher's wagon, all bloody, with +crushed skulls, broken limbs and bloody faces." + +These are frightful stories, exaggerated probably from the nervous +excitement of those terrible moments, as are also the following +statements, which form part of the early accounts of the disaster. +Thus we are told that "from a three-story lodging house at Fifth +and Minna Streets, which collapsed Wednesday morning, more than +seventy-five bodies were taken to-day. There are fifty other +bodies in sight in the ruins. This building was one of the first +to take fire on Fifth Street. At least 100 persons are said to +have been killed in the Cosmopolitan, on Fourth Street. More than +150 persons are reported dead in the Brunswick Hotel, at Seventh +and Mission Streets." + +Another statement is to the effect that "at Seventh and Howard +Streets a great lodging house took fire after the first shock, +before the guests had escaped. There were few exits and nearly all +the lodgers perished. Mrs. J. J. Munson, one of those in the +building, leaped with her child in her arms from the second floor +to the pavement below and escaped unhurt. She says she was the +only one who escaped from the house. Such horrors as this were +repeated at many points. B. Baker was killed while trying to get a +body from the ruins. Other rescuers heard the pitiful wail of a +little child, but were unable to get near the point from which the +cry issued. Soon the onrushing fire ended the cry and the men +turned to other tasks." + + +ESTIMATES OF THE DEATH LIST. + + +The questionable point in those statements is that the numbers of +dead spoken of in these few instances exceed the whole number given +in the official records issued two weeks after the disaster. Yet +they go to illustrate the actual horrors of the case, and are of +importance for this reason. As regards the whole number killed, in +fact, there is not, and probably never will be, a full and accurate +statement. While about 350 bodies had been recovered at the end of +the second week, it was impossible to estimate how many lay buried +under the ruins, to be discovered only as the work of excavation +went on, and how many more had been utterly consumed by the flames, +leaving no trace of their existence. The estimates of the probable +loss of life ran up to 1,500 and more, while the injured were very +numerous. + +The shock of the earthquake, the pulse of deep horror to which it +gave rise, the first wild impulse to flee for life, gave way in the +minds of many to a feeling of intense sympathy as agonized cries +came from those pinned down to the ruins of buildings or felled by +falling bricks or stones, and as the sight of dead bodies +incrimsoned with blood met the eyes of the survivors in the +streets. From wandering aimlessly about, many of these went +earnestly to work to rescue the wounded and recover the bodies of +the slain. In this merciful work the police and the soldiers lent +their aid, and soon there was a large corps of rescuers actively +engaged. + + +BURYING THE DEAD. + + +Soon numbers were taken, alive or dead, from the ruins, passing +vehicles were pressed into the service, and the labor of mercy went +on rapidly, several buildings being quickly converted into +temporary hospitals, while the dead were conveyed to the Mechanics' +Pavilion and other available places. Portsmouth Square became for +a time a public morgue. Between twenty and thirty corpses were +laid side by side upon the trodden grass in the absence of more +suitable accommodations. It is said that when the flames +threatened to reach the square, the dead, mostly unknown, were +removed to Columbia Square, where they were buried when danger +threatened that quarter. Others were taken to the Presidio, and +here the soldiers pressed into service all men who came near and +forced them to labor at burying the dead, a temporary cemetery +being opened there. So thick were the corpses piled up that they +were becoming a menace, and early in the day the order was issued +to bury them at any cost. The soldiers were needed for other work, +so, at the point of rifles, the citizens were compelled to take to +the work of burying. Some objected at first, but the troops stood +no trifling, and every man who came within reach was forced to +work. Rich men, unused to physical exertion, labored by the side +of the workingmen digging trenches in which to bury the dead. The +able-bodied being engaged in fighting the flames, General Funston +ordered that the old men and the weaklings should take the work in +hand. They did it willingly enough, but had they refused the +troops on guard would have forced them. It was ruled that every +man physically capable of handling a spade or a pick should dig for +an hour. When the first shallow graves were ready the men, under +the direction of the troops, lowered the bodies, several in a +grave, and a strange burial began. The women gathered about +crying. Many of them knelt while a Catholic priest read the burial +service and pronounced absolution. All Thursday afternoon this +went on. + +In this connection the following stories are told: + +Dr. George V. Schramm, a young medical graduate, said: + +"As I was passing down Market Street with a new-found friend, an +automobile came rushing along with two soldiers in it. My doctor's +badge protected me, but the soldiers invited my companion, a husky +six-footer, to get into the automobile. He said: + +"'I don't want to ride, and have plenty of business to attend to.' + +"Once more they invited him, and he refused. One of the soldiers +pointed a gun at him and said: + +"'We need such men as you to save women and children and to help +fight the fire.' + +"The man was on his way to find his sister, but he yielded to the +inevitable. He worked all day with the soldiers, and when released +to get lunch he felt that he could conscientiously desert to go and +find his own loved ones." + +"Half a block down the street the soldiers were stopping all +pedestrians without the official pass which showed that they were +on relief business, and putting them to work heaving bricks off the +pavement. Two dapper men with canes, the only clean people I saw, +were caught at the corner by a sergeant, who showed great joy as he +said: + +"'I give you time to git off those kid gloves, and then hustle, +damn you, hustle!' The soldiers took delight in picking out the +best dressed men and keeping them at the brick piles for long +terms. I passed them in the shelter of a provision wagon, afraid +that even my pass would not save me. Two men are reported shot +because they refused to turn in and help." + +Many of the dead, of course, will never be identified, though the +names were taken of all who were known and descriptions written of +the others. A story comes to us of one young girl who had followed +for two days the body of her father, her only relative. It had +been taken from a house on Mission Street to an undertaker's shop +just after the quake. The fire drove her out with her charge, and +it was placed in Mechanics' Pavilion. That went, and the body +rested for a day at the Presidio, waiting burial. With many +others, she wept on the border of the burned area, while the women +cared for her. + + +VICTIMS TAKEN FROM THE RUINS. + + +On Friday eleven postal clerks, all alive, were taken from the +debris of the Post Office. All at first were thought to be dead, +but it was found that, although they were buried under the stone +and timber, every one was alive. They had been for three days +without food or water. + +Two theatrical people were in a hotel in Santa Rosa when the shock +came. The room was on the fourth floor. The roof collapsed. One +of them was thrown from the bed and both were caught by the +descending timbers and pinned helplessly beneath the debris. They +could speak to each other and could touch one another's hands, but +the weight was so great that they could do nothing to liberate +themselves. After three hours rescuers came, cut a hole in the +roof and both were released uninjured. + +Even the docks were converted into hospitals in the stringent +exigency of the occasion, about 100 patients being stretched on +Folsom street dock at one time. In the evening tugs conveyed them +to Goat Island, where they were lodged in the hospital. The docks +from Howard Street to Folsom Street had been saved, the fire at +this point not being permitted to creep farther east than Main +Street. Another series of fatalities occurred, caused by the +stampeding of a herd of cattle at Sixth and Folsom Streets. Three +hundred of the panic-stricken animals ran amuck when they saw and +felt the flames and charged wildly down the street, trampling under +foot all who were in the way. One man was gored through and +through by a maddened bull. At least a dozen persons', it is said, +were killed, though probably this is an overestimate. One observer +tells us that "the first sight I saw was a man with blood streaming +from his wounds, carrying a dead woman in his arms. He placed the +body on the floor of the court at the Palace Hotel, and then told +me he was the janitor of a big building. The first he knew of the +catastrophe he found himself in the basement, his dead wife beside +him. The building had simply split in two, and thrown them down." + +In the camps of refuge the deaths came frequently. Physicians were +everywhere in evidence, but, without medicine or instruments, were +fearfully handicapped. Men staggered in from their herculean +efforts at the fire lines, only to fall gasping on the grass. +There was nothing to be done. Injured lay groaning. Tender hands +were willing, but of water there was none. "Water, water, for +God's sake get me some water," was the cry that struck into +thousands of souls of San Francisco. + +The list of dead was not confined to San Francisco, but extended +to many of the neighboring towns, especially to Santa Rosa, where +sixty were reported dead and a large number missing, and to the +insane asylum in its vicinity, from the ruins of which a hundred +or more of dead bodies were taken. + + +THE FREE USE OF RIFLES. + + +A citizen tells us that "in the early part of the evening, and +while the twilight lasts, there is a good deal of trafficking up +and down the sidewalks. Having finished their dinners of government +provisions, cooked on the street or in the parks, the people +promenade for half an hour or so. By half-past eight the town +is closed tight. A rat scurrying in the street will bring a +soldier's rifle to his shoulder. Any one not wearing a uniform +or a Red Cross badge is a suspicious character and may be shot +unless he halts at command. Even the men in uniform do well to +stop still, for it is hard to tell a uniform in the half light +thrown up by the burning town and the great shadows. + +"Last night two of us ventured out on Van Ness Avenue a little late. +There came up the noise of some kind of a shooting scrape far down +the street. We hurried in that direction to see what was doing. +An eighteen-year-old boy in a uniform barred the way, levelled his +rifle and said in a peremptory way: + +"'Go home.' + +"We took a course down the block, where an older soldier, more +communicative but equally peremptory, informed us that we were +trifling with our lives, news or no news. + +"'We've shot about 300 people for one thing or another,' he said. +'Now, dodge trouble. Git!' That ended the expedition." + + +THE LOSS IN WEALTH. + + +If we pass now from the record of the loss of lives to that of the +destruction of wealth, the estimates exceed by far any fire losses +recorded in history. + +The truth is that when flames eat out the heart of a great city, +devour its vast business establishments, storehouses and +warehouses, sweep through its centres of opulence, destroy its +wharves with their accumulation of goods, spread ruin and havoc +everywhere, it is impossible at first to estimate the loss. Only +gradually, as time goes on, is the true loss discovered, and never +perhaps very + +accurately, since the owners and the records of riches often +disappear with the wealth itself. In regard to San Francisco, the +early estimate was that three-fourths of the city, valued at +$500,000,000, was destroyed. + +But early estimates are apt to be exaggerated, and on Friday, two +days after the disaster, we find this estimate reduced to +$250,000,000. A few more days passed and these figures shrunk +still further, though it was still largely conjectural, the means +of making a trustworthy estimate being very restricted. Later on +the pendulum + +swung upward again, and two weeks after the fire the closest +estimates that could be made fixed the property loss at close to +$350,000,000, or double that of the Chicago fire. But as the +actual loss in the latter case proved considerably below the early +estimates, the same may prove to be the case with San Francisco. + +Special personal losses were in many cases great. Thus the Palace +Hotel was built at a cost of $6,000,000, and the St. Francis, which +originally cost $4,000,000, was being enlarged at great expense. +Several of the great mansions on Nob's Hill cost a million or more, +the City Hall was built at a cost of $7,000,000, the new Post +Office was injured to the extent of half a million, while a large +number of other buildings might be named whose value, with their +contents, was measured in the millions. + +It was not until May 3d that news came over the wires of another +serious item of loss. The merchants had waited until then for +their fire-proof safes and vaults to cool off before attempting to +open them. When this was at length done the results proved +disheartening. Out of 576 vaults and safes opened in the district +east of Powell and north of Market Street, where the flames had +raged with the greatest fury, it was found that fully forty per +cent. had not performed their duty. When opened they were found to +contain nothing but heaps of ashes. The valuable account books, +papers and in some cases large sums of money had vanished, the loss +of the accounts being a severe calamity in a business sense. As +all the banks were equipped with the best fire-proof vaults, no +fear was felt for the safety of their contents. + + +LOOTERS IN CHINATOWN. + + +Chinatown suffered severely, the merchants of that locality +possessing large stocks of valuable goods, many of which were +looted by seemingly respectable sightseers after the ruins had +cooled off, bronze, porcelain and other valuable goods being taken +from the ruins. One example consisted in a mass of gold and silver +valued at $2,500, which had been melted by the fire in the store of +Tai Sing, a Chinese merchant. This was found by the police on May +3d in a place where it had been hidden by looters. + +But with all its losses San Francisco does not despair. The spirit +of its citizens is heroic, and there are some hopeful signs in the +air. The insurances due are estimated to approximate $175,000,000, +and there are other moneys likely to be spent on building during +the coming year, making a total of over $200,000,000. Eastern +capitalists also talk of investing $100,000,000 of new capital in +the rebuilding of the city, while the San Francisco authorities +have a project of issuing $200,000,000 of municipal bonds, the +payment to be guaranteed by the United States Government. Thus, +two weeks after the earthquake, daylight was already showing +strongly ahead and hope was fast beginning to replace despair. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Wonderful Record of Thrilling Escapes. + + +Shuddering under the memories of what seems more like a nightmare +than actual reality to the survivors of this frightful calamity, +they have tried to picture in words far from adequate the days of +terror and the nights of horror that fell to the lot of the people +of the Golden Gate city and their guests. + +They recount the roar of falling structures and the groans and +pitiful cries of those pinned beneath the timbers of collapsing +buildings. They speak of their climbing over dead bodies heaped in +the streets, and of following tortuous ways to find the only avenue +of escape--the ferry, where men and women fought like infuriated +animals, bent on escape from a fiery furnace. + +These refugees tell of the great caravan composed of homeless +persons in its wild flight to the hills for safety, and in that +great procession women, harnessed to vehicles, trudging along and +tugging at the shafts, hauling all that was left of their earthly +belongings, and a little food that foresight told them would be +necessary to stay the pangs of hunger in the hours of misery that +must follow. + +We give below an especially accurate picture from the description +of the well-known writer, Jane Tingley, who, an eye-witness of it +all, did so much to help the sufferers, and who, with all the +unselfishness of true American womanhood, sacrificed her own +comfort and needs for those of others. + +"May God be merciful to the women and children in this land of +desolation and despair!" she wrote on April 21st. + +"Men have done, are doing such deeds of sublime self-sacrifice, of +magnificent heroism, that deserve to make the title of American +manhood immortal in the pages of history. The rest lies with the +Almighty. + +"I spent all of last night and to-day in that horror city across +the bay. I went from this unharmed city of plenty, blooming with +abounding health, thronged with happy mothers and joyous children, +and spent hours among the blackened ruins and out on the windswept +slopes of the sand hills by the sea, and I heard the voice of +Rachel weeping for her children in the wilderness and mourning +because she found them not. + +"I climbed to the top of Strawberry Hill, in Golden Gate Park, and +saw a woman, half naked, almost starving, her hair dishevelled and +an unnatural lustre in her eyes, her gaze fixed upon the waters in +the distance, and her voice repeating over and over again: 'Here I +am, my pretties; come here, come here.' + +"I took her by the hand and led her down to the grass at the foot +of the hill. A man--her husband--received her from me and wept as +he said: 'She is calling our three little children. She thinks the +sounds of the ocean waves are the voices of our lost darlings.' + +"Ever since they became separated from their children in that first +terrific onrush of the multitude when the fire swept along Mission +Street these two had been tramping over the hills and parks without +food or rest, searching for their little ones. To all whom they +have met they have addressed the same pitiful question: 'Have you +seen anything of our lost babies?' They will not know what has +become of them until order has been brought out of chaos; until the +registration headquarters of the military authorities has secured +the names of all who are among the straggling wanderers around the +camps of the homeless. Perhaps then it will be found that these +children are in a trench among the corpses of the weaklings who +have succumbed to the frightful rigors of the last three days. + +"Last night a soldier seized me by the arm and cried: 'If you are a +woman with a woman's heart, go in there and do whatever you can.' + +"'In there' meant behind a barricade of brush, covered with a +blanket that had been hastily thrown together to form a rude +shelter. I went in and saw one of my own sex lying on the bare +grass naked, her clothing torn to shreds; scattered over the green +beside her. She was moaning pitifully, and it needed no words to +tell a woman what the matter was, I bade my man escort to find a +doctor, or at least send more women at once. He ran off and soon +two sympathetic ladies hastened into the shelter. In an hour my +escort returned with a young medical student. Under the best +ministrations we could find, a new life was ushered into this hell, +which, a few hours before, was the fairest among cities. + +"'There have been many such cases,' said the medical student. +"Many of the mothers have died--few of the babies have lived. I, +personally, know of nine babies that have been born in the park to- +day. There must have been many others here, among the sand hills, +and at the Presidio." + +"Think of it, you happy women who have become mothers in +comfortable homes, attended with every care that loving hands can +bestow. Think of the dreadful plight of these poor members of your +sex. The very thought of it is enough to make the hearts of women +burst with pity. + +"To-day I walked among the people crowded on the Panhandle. +Opposite the Lyon Street entrance, on the north side, I saw a young +woman sitting tailor-fashion in the roadway, which, in happier +days, was the carriage boulevard. She held a dishpan and was +looking at her reflection in the polished bottom, while another +girl was arranging her hair. I recognized a young wife, whose +marriage to a prominent young lawyer eight months ago was a gala +event among that little handful of people who clung to the old-time +fashionable district of Valencia Street, like the Phelan and Dent +families, and refused to move from that aristocratic section when +the new-made, millionaires began to build their palaces on Nob Hill +and Pacific Heights. I spoke to the young woman about the +disadvantages of making her toilet under such untoward +circumstances. + +"'Ah, Julia, dear, you must stay to luncheon,' she said, extending +her fingers just as though she stood in her own drawing-room. + + +MISERY DRIVES SOME INSANE. + + +"I looked at the maid in astonishment, for I had never met the +young society woman before. The maid shook her head and whispered +when she got the chance: + +"'My mistress is not in her right mind.' + +"'Where is her husband?' I asked. + +"'He has gone to try to get some food,' said the girl. 'She +imagines that she is in her own home, before her dressing table, +and is having me do up her hair against some of her friends +dropping in.' + +"'She must have suffered,' I said, 'to cause such a mental +derangement.' + +"The girl's eyes filled with tears. She told me that her mistress +had seen her brother killed by falling timbers while they were +hurrying to a place of safety. A little farther on I saw two women +concealed as best they might be behind a tuft of sand brush, one +lying face down on the ground, while the other vigorously massaged +her bare back. I asked if I might help, and learned that the +ministering angel was the unmarried daughter of one of the city's +richest merchants, and that the girl whom she succored had been +employed as a servant in her father's household. The girl's back +had been injured by a fall, and her mistress' fair hands were +trying to make her well again. + +"Thus has this overwhelming common woe levelled all barriers of +caste and placed the suffering multitude on a basis of democracy. +On a rock behind a manzanita bush near the edge of Stow Lake I saw +a Chinaman making a pile of broken twigs in the early morning. The +man felt inside his blouse and swore a gibbering, unintelligible +Asiatic oath as his hand came forth empty. Observing my escort, +the Chinaman approached and said: + +"'Bosse, alle same, catchee match?' + +"My escort gave him the desired article, and the Chinaman made a +fire of his pile of twigs. 'Why are you making a fire, John?' I +asked. + +"'Bleakfast,' he replied laconically. + +"I asked him where his food might be, and he gave us a quick glance +of suspicion as he said briefly, 'No sabbe.' + +"We stood watching him, evidently to his great distress, and +finally he made bold to say, 'You no stand lound, bosse. You go +'way.' + +"We left him, but after making the tour around the lake came back +to the same place. There sat four people on the ground eating +fried pork, potatoes and Chinese cakes. In a young woman of the +group I recognized one whom I had seen dancing at one of Mr. +Greenway's Friday Night Cotillion balls in the Palace Hotel's maple +room during the winter. They offered to share their meal with us, +but we told them that we had just come from breakfast in Oakland. +I told them about the strange conduct of their Chinaman, who was +traveling back and forth from his fire to the 'table' with the food +as it became ready to serve. + +"The father of the family laughed. + + +SOCIETY FOLKS COMPELLED TO CAMP. + + +'Yes,' he said, 'that is Charlie's way. He has been with us many +years, and when our home was destroyed he came out here with us in +preference to seeking refuge among his countrymen in Chinatown. +Yesterday we were without food, and Charlie disappeared. I thought +he had deserted us, but toward dark he came back with a bamboo pole +over his shoulder and a Chinese market gardener's basket suspended +from either end. In one of the baskets he had a pile of blankets +and a lot of canvas. In the other was an assortment of pork, +flour, Chinese cakes and vegetables, besides a half-dozen chickens +and a couple of bagfuls of rice. + +"'Charlie had been foraging in Chinatown for us before the fire +reached that quarter. He made a tent and improvised beds for us, +and he has the food concealed somewhere in the vicinity, but where +he will not tell us, for fear that we will give some of it to +others and reduce our own supply. Charlie boils rice for himself. +He will not touch the other food. Without him we should have been +starving.'" + +G. A. Raymond, who was in the Palace Hotel when the earthquake +occurred, says: + +"I had $600 in gold under my pillow. I awoke as I was thrown out +of bed. Attempting to walk, the floor shook so that I fell. I +grabbed my clothing and rushed down into the office, where dozens +were already congregated. Suddenly the lights went out, and every +one rushed for the door. + +"Outside I witnessed a sight I never want to see again. It was +dawn and light. I looked up. The air was filled with falling +stones. People around me were crushed to death on all sides. All +around the huge buildings were shaking and waving. Every moment +there were reports like 100 cannon going off at one time. Then +streams of fire would shoot out, and other reports followed. + +"I asked a man standing by me what had happened. Before he could +answer a thousand bricks fell on him and he was killed. A woman +threw her arms around my neck. I pushed her away and fled. All +around me buildings were rocking and flames shooting. As I ran +people on all sides were crying, praying and calling for help. I +thought the end of the world had come. + +"I met a Catholic priest, and he said: 'We must get to the ferry.' +He knew the way, and we rushed down Market Street. Men, women and +children were crawling from the debris. Hundreds were rushing down +the street, and every minute people were felled by falling debris. + +"At places the streets had cracked and opened. Chasms extended in +all directions. I saw a drove of cattle, wild with fright, rushing +up Market Street. I crouched beside a swaying building. As they +came nearer they disappeared, seeming to drop into the earth. When +the last had gone I went nearer and found they had indeed been +precipitated into the earth, a wide fissure having swallowed them. +I worked my way around them and ran out to the ferry. I was crazy +with fear and the horrible sights. + +"How I reached the ferry I cannot say. It was bedlam, pandemonium +and hell rolled into one. There must have been 10,000 people +trying to get on that boat. Men and women fought like wild cats to +push their way aboard. Clothes were torn from the backs of men and +women and children indiscriminately. Women fainted, and there was +no water at hand with which to revive them. Men lost their reason +at those awful moments. One big, strong man, beat his head against +one of the iron pillars on the dock, and cried out in a loud voice: +'This fire must be put out! The city must be saved!' It was +awful. + + +TERRIBLE SCENE AT THE FERRY. + + +"When the gates were opened the mad rush began. All were swept +aboard in an irresistible tide. We were jammed on the deck like +sardines in a box. No one cared. At last the boat pulled out. +Men and women were still jumping for it, only to fall into the +water and probably drown." + +The members of the Metropolitan Opera Company, of New York, were in +San Francisco at this time, and nearly all of these famous singers, +known all over the world, suffered from the great disaster. + +All of the splendid scenery, stage fittings, costumes and musical +instruments were lost in the fire, which destroyed the Grand Opera +House, where the season had just opened to splendid audiences. + +Many of the operatic stars have given very interesting accounts of +their experiences. Signor Caruso, the famous tenor and one of the +principals of the company, had one of the most thrilling +experiences. He and Signor Rossi, a favorite basso, and his +inseparable companion, had a suite on the seventh floor and were +awakened by the terrific shaking of the building. The shock nearly +threw Caruso out of bed. He said: + +"I threw open the window, and I think I let out the grandest notes +I ever hit in all my life. I do not know why I did this. I +presume I was too excited to do anything else. + + +GREAT SINGERS ESCAPE. + + +"Looking out of the window, I saw buildings all around rocking like +the devil had hold of them. I wondered what was going on. Then I +heard Rossi come scampering into my room. 'My God, it's an +earthquake!' he yelled. 'Get your things and run!' I grabbed what +I could lay my hands on and raced like a madman for the office. On +the way down I shouted as loud as I could so the others would wake +up. + +"When I got to the office I thought of my costumes and sent my +valet, Martino, back after them. He packed things up and carried +the trunks down on his back. I helped him take them to Union +Square." + +It is said that ten minutes later he was seen seated on his valise +in the middle of the street. But to continue his story: + +"I walked a few feet away to see how to get out, and when I came +back four Chinamen were lugging my trunks away. I grabbed one of +them by the ears, and the others jumped on me. I took out my +revolver and pointed it at them. They spit at me. I was mad, but +I hated to kill them, so I found a soldier, and he made them give +up the trunks. + +"Ah, that soldier was a fine fellow. He went up to the Chinamen +and slapped them upon the face, once, twice, three times. They all +howled like the devil and ran away. I put my revolver back into my +pocket, and then I thanked the soldier. He said: "'Don't mention +it. Them Chinks would steal the money off a dead man's eyes.'" + +They say that Rossi, though almost in tears, was heard trying his +voice at a corner near the Palace Hotel. + + +TEDDY'S PICTURE PROVES "OPEN SESAME." + + +"I went to Lafayette Square and slept on the grass. When I tried +to get into the square the soldiers pushed me back. I pleaded with +them, but they would not listen. I had under my arm a large +photograph of Theodore Roosevelt, upon which was written: 'With +kindest regards from Theodore Roosevelt.' I showed them this, and +one of them said: 'If you are a friend of Teddy, come in and make +yourself at home.' + +"I put my trunks in the cellar of the Hotel St. Francis and thought +they would be safe. The hotel caught fire, and my trunks were all +burned up. To think I took so much trouble to save them!" + +In spite of the news of all the woe and suffering which we hear, it +is cheering to learn also of the many thousands of heroic deeds by +brave men during the terrible scenes enacted through the four days +passing since the eventful morning when the earth began to demolish +splendid buildings of business and residence and fire sprang up to +complete the city's destruction. The Mayor and his forces of +police, the troops under command of General Funston, volunteer aids +to all these, and the husbands of terrified wives, and the sons, +brothers and other relatives who toiled for many consecutive hours +through smoke and falling walls and an inferno of flames and +explosions and traps of danger of all kinds, often without food or +water--toiling as men never toiled before to save life and relieve +distress of all kinds--all these were examples of heroism and +devotion to duty seldom witnessed in any scenes of terror in all +time. There are brave, unselfish men and heroic women yet in the +world, and all of the best of human nature has been exhibited in +large dimensions in the terrible disaster at San Francisco. + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Disaster Spreads Over the Golden State + + +The first news that the world received of the earthquake came +direct from San Francisco and was confined largely to descriptions +of the disaster which had overwhelmed that city. It was so sudden, +so appalling, so tragic in its nature, that for the time being it +quite overshadowed the havoc and misery wrought in a number of +other California towns of lesser note. + +As the truth, however, became gradually sifted out of the tangle of +rumors, the horror, instead of being diminished, was vastly +increased. It became evident that instead of this being a local +catastrophe, the full force of the seismic waves had travelled from +Ukiah in the north to Monterey in the south, a distance of about +180 miles, and had made itself felt for a considerable distance +from the Pacific westward, wrecking the larger buildings of every +town in its path, rending and ruining as it went, and doing +millions of dollars worth of damage. + + +THE DESTRUCTION OF SANTA ROSA. + + +In Santa Rosa, sixty miles to the north of San Francisco, and one +of the most beautiful towns of California, practically every +building was destroyed or badly damaged. The brick and stone +business blocks, together with the public buildings, were thrown +down. The Court House, Hall of Records, the Occidental and Santa +Rosa Hotels, the Athenaeum Theatre, the new Masonic Temple, Odd +Fellows' Block, all the banks, everything went, and in all the city +not one brick or stone building was left standing, except the +California Northwestern Depot. + +In the residential portion of the city the foundations receded from +under the houses, badly wrecking about twenty of the largest and +damaging every one more or less; and here, as in San Francisco, +flames followed the earthquake, breaking out in a dozen different +places at once and completing the work of devastation. From the +ruins of the fallen houses fifty-eight bodies were taken out and +interred during the first few days, and the total of dead and +injured was close to a hundred. The money loss at this small city +is estimated at $3,000,000. + +The destruction of Santa Rosa gave rise to general sorrow among the +residents of the interior of the State. It was one of the show +towns of California, and not only one of the most prosperous cities +in the fine county of Sonoma, but one of the most picturesque in +the State. Surrounding it there were miles of orchards, vineyards +and corn fields. The beautiful drives of the city were adorned +with bowers of roses, which everywhere were seen growing about the +homes of the people. In its vicinity are the famous gardens of +Luther Burbank, the "California wizard," but these fortunately +escaped injury. + +At San Jose, another very beautiful city of over 20,000 population, +not a single brick or stone building of two stories or over was +left standing. Among those wrecked were the Hall of justice, just +completed at a cost of $300,000; the new High School, the +Presbyterian Church and St. Patrick's Cathedral. Numbers of people +were caught in the ruins and maimed or killed. The death list +appears to have been small, but the property damage was not less +than $5,000,000. The Agnew State Insane Asylum, in the vicinity of +San Jose, was entirely destroyed, more than half the inmates being +killed or injured. + + +THE STANFORD UNIVERSITY. + + +The Leland Stanford, Jr., University, at Palo Alto (about thirty +miles south of San Francisco), felt the full force of the +earthquake and was badly wrecked. Only two lives were lost as a +result of the earthquake, one of a student, the other of a fireman, +but eight students were injured more or less seriously. The damage +to the buildings is estimated by President Jordan to amount to +about $4,000,000. + +The memorial church, with its twelve marble figures of the +apostles, each weighing two tons, was badly injured by the fall of +its Gothic spire, which crashed through the roof and demolished +much of the interior; the great entrance archway was split in twain +and wrecked; so, too, were the library, the gymnasium and the power +house. A number of other buildings in the outer quadrangle and +some of the small workshops were seriously damaged. + +Encina Hall and the inner quadrangle were practically uninjured, +and the bulk of the books, collections and apparatus escaped +damage. + +Sacramento, together with all the smaller cities and towns that dot +the great Sacramento Valley for a distance fifty miles south and +150 miles north of the capital, escaped without injury, not a +single pane of glass being broken or a brick displaced in +Sacramento and no injury done in the other places, they lying +eastward of the seat of serious earthquake activity. + +Los Angeles and Santa Barbara escaped with a slight trembling; +Stockton, 103 miles north of San Francisco, felt a severe shock and +the Santa Fe bridge over the San Joaquin River at this point +settled several inches. The only place in Southern California that +suffered was Brawley, a small town lying 120 miles south of Los +Angeles, about 100 buildings in the town and the surrounding valley +being injured, though none of them were destroyed. + + +THE EARTHQUAKE AT OTHER CITIES. + + +At Alameda, on the bay opposite San Francisco, a score of chimneys +were shaken down and other injuries done. Railroad tracks were +twisted, and over 600 feet of track of the Oakland Transit +Company's railway sank four feet. The total damage done amounted +to probably $200,000, but no lives were lost. Tomales, a place of +350 inhabitants, was left a pile of ruins. + +At Los Panos several buildings were wrecked, causing damage to the +extent of $75,000, but no lives were lost. + +At Loma Prieta the earthquake caused a mine house to slip down the +side of a mountain, ten men being buried in the ruins. + +Fort Bragg, one of the principal lumbering towns in Mendocino +County, was practically wiped out by fire following the earthquake, +but out of a population of 5,000 only one was killed, though scores +were injured. + +The town of Berkeley, across the bay from San Francisco, suffered +considerable damage from twisted structures, fallen walls and +broken chimneys, the greatest injury being in the collapse of the +town hall and the ruin of the deaf and dumb asylum. The University +of California, situated here, was fortunate in escaping injury, it +being reported that not a building was harmed in the slightest +degree. Another public edifice of importance and interest, in a +different section of the State, the famous Lick Astronomical +Observatory, was equally fortunate, no damage being done to the +buildings or the instruments. + + +AT THE STATE UNIVERSITY. + + +Salinas, a town down the coast near Monterey, suffered severely, +the place being to a large extent destroyed, with an estimated loss +of over $1,000,000. The Spreckels' sugar factory and a score of +other buildings were reported ruined and a number of lives lost. +During the succeeding week several other shocks of some strength +were reported from this town. + +Thus the ruinous work of the earthquake stretched over a broad +track of prosperous, peaceful and happy country, embracing one of +the best sections of California, laying waste not only the towns in +its path, but doing much damage to ranch houses and country +residences. Strange manifestations of nature were reported from +the interior, where the ground was opened in many places like a +ploughed field. Great rents in the earth were reported, and for +many miles north from Los Angeles miniature geysers are said to +have spouted volcano-like streams of hot mud. + +Railroad tracks in some localities were badly injured, sinking or +lifting, and being put out of service until repaired. In fact, the +ruinous effects of the earthquake immensely exceeded those of any +similar catastrophe ever before known in the United States, and +when the destruction done by the succeeding conflagration in San +Francisco is taken into account the California earthquake of 1906 +takes rank with the most destructive of those recorded in history. + + + +CHAPTER X. + +All America and Canada to the Rescue + + +During the first three days after the terrible news had been +flashed over the world the relief fund from the nation had leaped +beyond the $5,000,000 mark. New York took the lead in the most +generous giving that the world has ever seen. From every town and +country village the people hastened to the Town Halls, the +newspaper offices and wherever help was to be found most quickly, +to add their savings and to sacrifice all but necessities for their +stricken fellow-countrymen. Never has there been such a practical +illustration of brotherly love. A perfect shower of gold and food +was poured out to the sufferers to give them immediate assistance +and to help them to a new start in life. All relief records were +broken within two days of the disaster, but still the purses of the +rich and poor alike continued to add to the huge contributions. +Though the relief records were broken, every succeeding dispatch +from the West told too plainly the terrible fact that all records +of necessity were also broken. + +Over the entire globe Americans wherever they were hastened to +cable or telegraph their bankers to add their share to the great +work. A large fund was at once started in London, and with +contributions of from $2,000 to $12,000 the sum was soon raised to +hundreds of thousands of dollars. + +Individual contributions of $100,000 were common. In addition to +John D. Rockefeller's gift of this sum, his company, the Standard +Oil, gave another $100,000. The Steel Corporation and Andrew +Carnegie each gave $100,000. From London William Waldorf Astor +cabled his American representative, Charles A. Peabody, to place +$100,000 at once at the disposal of Mayor Schmitz, of San +Francisco, which was done. The Dominion Government of Canada made +a special appropriation of $100,000 and the Canadian Bank of +Commerce, at Toronto, gave $10,000. And two of the great steamship +companies owned in Germany sent $25,000 each. + + +RIGHT OF WAY FOR FOOD TRAINS. + + +On nearly a dozen roads, two days before the fire was over, great +trains of freight cars loaded with foodstuffs were hastening at +express speed to San Francisco. They had the right of way on every +line. E. H. Harriman, in addition to giving $200,000 for the Union +Pacific, Southern Pacific and other Harriman roads, issued orders +that all relief trains bound for the desolated city should have +Precedence over all other business of the roads. + +Advices from many points indicated that at least 150 freight cars +loaded with the necessaries so eagerly awaited in San Francisco +were speeding there as fast as steam could drive them. In +addition, several steamers from other Pacific coast points, all +food-laden, were rushing toward the stricken city. + +The rapidity with which the various relief funds in every city grew +was almost magical. + +From corporations, firms, labor unions, religious societies, +individuals, rich and poor, money flowed. Even the children in the +schools gave their pennies. Every grade of society, every branch +of trade and commerce seemed inspired by a spirit of emulation in +giving. + +The United States Government at once voted a contribution of +$1,000,000, and government supplies were rushed from every post in +the West. + +The $1,000,000 government gift, which formed the nucleus of the +relief fund, was doubled on Saturday by a resolution appropriating +another, and a vote was taken on Monday to increase this sum to +$1,500,000, making a total government contribution of $2,500,000. +This was largely expended in supplies of absolute necessaries, +furnished from the stores of the War Department, and those first +sent being five carloads of army medical supplies from St. Louis. +A cargo of evaporated cream was also sent to use in the care of +little children, while the Red Cross Society shipped a carload of +eggs from Chicago. Dr. Edward Devine, special Red Cross agent in +San Francisco, was appointed to distribute these supplies. + + +CARGOES OF SUPPLIES. + + +Trainloads of other supplies were dispatched in all haste from +various points in the West and East, carrying provisions of all +kinds, tents, cots, clothing, bedding and a great variety of other +articles. A special train of twenty-six cars was dispatched from +Portland, Oregon, on Thursday night, conveying ten doctors, twenty +trained nurses and 800,000 pounds of provisions. Chicago sent +meat. Minneapolis sent flour, and, in fact, every part of the +country moved in the greatest haste for the relief of the stricken +city. + +There was urgent need of haste. On Friday, while the flames were +still making their way onward, General Funston telegraphed: "Famine +seems inevitable." The people of the country took a more hopeful +view of it, and by Saturday night the spectre of famine was +definitely driven from the field and food for all the fugitives was +within reach. + + +THE SYMPATHY OF THE PEOPLE AWAKES. + + +On all sides the people were awake and doing. In all the great +cities agencies to receive contributions were opened, and many of +the newspapers undertook the task of collecting and forwarding +supplies. The smaller towns were equally alert in furnishing their +quota to the good work, and from countryside and village +contributions were forwarded until the fund accumulated to an +unprecedented amount. Collections were made in factories, in +stores, in offices, in the public schools; cash boxes or globes +stood in all frequented places and were rapidly filled with bank +notes; theatrical and musical entertainments were given for the +benefit of the earthquake sufferers; never had there been such an +awakening. As an instance of the spirit displayed, one man came +running into a banking house and threw a thousand dollar bill on +the counter. + +"For San Francisco," he said, as he turned toward the door. + +"What name?" asked the teller. + +"Put it down to 'cash,'" he answered, as he vanished. + +Rapidly the fund accumulated. A few days brought it up to + +the $5,000,000 mark. Then it grew to $10,000,000. Within ten +days' time the relief fund was estimated at $18,000,000, and the +good work was still going on--in less profusion, it is true, but +still the spirit was alive. + + +FOREIGN OFFERS OF AID. + + +The generous impulse was not confined to the United States. From +all countries came offers of aid. Canada was promptly in the +field, and the chief nations of Europe were quick to follow, while +Japan made a generous offer, and in far Australia funds were +started at the various cities for the sufferers. No doubt a large +sum from foreign lands would have been available had not President +Roosevelt declined to accept contributions from abroad, as not +needed in view of America's abundant response. To the Hamburg-Line +which offered $25,000, the following letter was sent: + +"The President deeply appreciates your message of sympathy, and +desires me to thank you heartily for the kind offer of outside aid. +Although declining, the President earnestly wishes you to +understand how much he appreciates your cordial and generous +sympathy." + +All other offerings from abroad were in the same thankful spirit +declined, even those from our immediate neighbors, Canada and +Mexico. Some feeling was aroused by this, especially in the relief +committee at San Francisco, which felt that the need of that city +was so great and urgent that no offer of relief should have been +declined. In response the President explained that he only spoke +for the government, in his official capacity, and that San +Francisco was in no sense debarred from accepting any contributions +made directly to it. + +It may justly be said for the people of this country that their +spontaneous generosity in the presence of a great calamity, either +at home or abroad, is always magnificent. It never waits for +solicitation. It does not delay even until the necessity is +demonstrated, but it assumes that where there is great destruction +of property and homes are swept away there must be distress which +calls for immediate relief. + +There is one ray of light in the gloom caused by the calamity at +San Francisco. A truly splendid display of brotherly love and +sympathy has been shown by the people of this country, and a +similar display was ready to be shown by the people of the +civilized world had it been felt that the occasion demanded it and +that the exigency surpassed the power of our people to meet it. + + +ENTERPRISE IN SAN FRANCISCO. + + +In the face of an appalling and death-dealing disaster, rendering +an entire community dependent for the bare necessities of life and +putting it in imminent danger of greater horrors, the nation has +been stirred as it has rarely been before, and there have been +awakened those deeper feelings of brotherhood which are referred to +in the oft-quoted passage that "one touch of nature makes the whole +world akin." + +The nature indicated in this instance is human nature in its +highest manifestation, the sympathetic sentiment that stirs deeply +in all our hearts and needs but the occasion to make itself warmly +manifested. There is something incomparably splendid in the +spectacle of an entire nation straining every nerve to send succor +to the helpless and the suffering, and this spectacle has warmed +the hearts of our people to the uttermost and inspired them to make +the most strenuous efforts to drive away the gaunt wolf of famine +from the ruined homes of our far Pacific brethren. + +It may be said that San Francisco will be willing to accept this +relief only so long as stern necessity demands it. At this writing +only two weeks have passed since the dread calamity, and already +active steps are being taken to provide for themselves. As an +example of their enterprise, it may be said that their newspapers +hardly suspended at all, the Evening Post alone suspending +publication for a time from being unable to acquire a plant in the +vicinity of the city. When the conflagration made it apparent that +all plants would be destroyed, the Bulletin put at work a force in +its composing rooms, a hand-bill was set and some hundreds of +copies run off on the proof-press, giving the salient features of +the day's news. + +The morning papers, the Call, Chronicle and Examiner, retired to +Oakland, on the other side of the bay, and there, on Thursday +morning, issued a joint paper from the office of the Oakland +Tribune. On Friday morning they split forces again, the Examiner +retaining the use of the Tribune plant and the Call and Chronicle +issuing from the office of the Oakland Herald. Two days later the +Call secured the service of the Oakland Enquirer plant. Meantime, +on Friday, the Bulletin, after a suspension of one day, made +arrangements for the use in the afternoon of the Oakland Herald +equipment, and from these sources and under such circumstances the +San Francisco papers have been issuing. + +Offices were hurriedly opened on Fillmore Street, which today is +the main thoroughfare of San Francisco, and from these headquarters +the news of the day as it is gathered is transmitted by means of +automobiles and ferry service to the Oakland shore. + +There also were accepted such advertisements as had been offered. +The number of these was, perhaps, the best visual sign of the +resurrection of the new city. It was noted that in a fourteen-page +paper printed within two weeks after the fire by the Examiner there +were over nine pages of advertisements, and in a sixteen-page paper +published by the Chronicle at least fifty per cent. of its space +was devoted to the same end. + +Many of the larger factories left unharmed were also quick to start +work. At the Union Iron Works 2,300 men were promptly employed, +and the management expected within a fortnight to have the full +complement of its force, nearly 4,000 men, engaged. No damage was +done to the three new warships being built at these works for the +government, the cruisers California and Milwaukee and the +battleship South Dakota. The steamer City of Puebla, which was +sunk in the bay, has been raised and is being repaired. Workmen +are also engaged fixing the steamship Columbia, which was turned on +her side. The hulls of the new Hawaiian-American Steamship +Company's liners were pitched about four feet to the south, but +were uninjured and only need to be replaced in position. + +As for the working people at large, those without funds for their +own support, abundant employment will quickly be provided for them +in the necessary work of clearing away the debris, thus opening the +way to a resumption of business and reducing the number requiring +relief. The ukase has already been issued that all able-bodied men +needing aid must go to work or leave the city. + +This dictum of Chief of Police Dinan's will be strictly enforced. +The relief work and distribution of food and clothing are +attracting a certain element to the city which does not desire to +labor, while some already here prefer to live on the generosity of +others. Chief Dinan has determined that those who apply for relief +and refuse work when it is offered them shall leave the city or be +arrested for vagrancy. The police judges have suggested +establishing a chain gang and putting all vagrants and petty +offenders at work clearing up the ruins. + +Perhaps never in the history of the city has there been so little +crime in San Francisco. With the saloons closed, Chinatown, the +Barbary Coast, and other haunts of criminals wiped out, and +soldiers and marines on almost every block in the residence +districts, there have been few crimes of any kind. It is the +opinion of the police that most of the criminal element has left +the city. The saloons, in all probability will remain closed for +two more months. + + +THE PROBLEM OF THE CHINESE. + + +In conclusion of this chapter it is advisable to refer to the +situation of one of the elements of San Francisco's population, the +people of Chinatown. One of the problems facing the relief +committees on both sides of the bay is the sheltering of the +Chinese. Many of them are destitute. It has long been a question +in San Francisco what should be done with Chinatown, and moving the +Chinese in the direction of Colma has been agitated. Now they are +without homes and without prospects of procuring any. They can get +no land. The limits of Oakland's Chinatown have already been +extended, and the strictest police regulations are in force to +prevent further enlargement. On this side of the bay they are +camping in open lots. Unless the government undertakes their +relief, they are in grave danger. Those who have money cannot +purchase property, as no one will sell to them. Few, however, even +of the wealthiest merchants in Chinatown, saved anything of value, +for their wealth was invested in the Oriental village which had +sprung up in the heart of the area burned. + +Yet it is the desire of the municipality not to harass this portion +of its foreign population, and the vexatious problem of placing the +new Chinatown will probably be settled to the satisfaction of the +Chinese colony. This colony diverts an important part of the trade +of San Francisco to that city, and if its members are dealt with +unjustly there is danger of losing this trade. The question is one +that must be left for the future to decide, but no doubt care will +be taken that a new Chinatown with the unsavory conditions of the +old shall not arise. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +San Francisco of the Past + + +The story of San Francisco's history and tragedy appeal with +extraordinary force to the imagination of all civilized men. For +several generations the city was looked upon as an Arabian Night's +dream--a place where gold lay in the streets and joy and happiness +were unlimited. Its settlement, or, rather, its real rise as a +city, was as by magic. It was first a city of tents, of shanties, +of "shacks," lying on the rim of a great, spacious bay. Ships of +all sizes and rigs brought gold-seekers and provisions from the +East, all the way round Cape Horn, after voyages of weary months, +and at San Francisco their crews deserted and hundreds of these +craft were left at their moorings to rot. Ashore was a riot of +money, prodigious extravagance, mean, shabby appointments, sudden +riches, great disappointment, revelry, improvidence and suicide. + +The streets that now lay squares from the water were then at the +water's edge and batteaus brought cargoes ashore. Long wharves-- +one was for years called the Long Wharf even after there were +others built much longer--led out over the shallow water. These +shallows were later filled and streets built upon them, and upon +them arose warehouses, hotels, factories, lodging houses and +business places. + +The city grew rapidly in the direction away from the bay. But in +its early days it was a city with no confidence in its own +stability, and its buildings were accordingly unstable. A few +minor earthquakes shook some of these down years ago and +established in the minds of the people a horror of earthquakes. +Frame houses became the rule. + +In its ensuing life San Francisco developed the attributes of a +city of gayety tempered by business. The population, for the most +part, affected light-hearted scorn of money, or, rather, of saving +money. It made mirth of life, habituated itself to expect +windfalls such as miners and prospectors dream of, developed a +moderate amount of business, and enjoyed the day while there was +sunlight and the night when there was artificial light. The +windfalls grew less frequent, mining became a costly and scientific +process, and agriculture succeeded it. But, though it was only +necessary to tickle the land with a hoe and pour water upon the +tickled spot, to have it laugh with two, three or even four +harvests a year, agriculturists continued scarce. The Chinese +truck farms, some of which lay within the city's lines, supplied +the small fruits and vegetables. Across the bay white men farmed, +and grapes, fruits, vegetables and flowers of prodigious variety +and monstrous dimensions were grown. But Eastern men came to do +the farming. The Californian who himself was an "Argonaut," or +whose father was an Argonaut, found no attractions in the steady +labor of farming. + +There followed a period of depression, ascribed by many to the +influx of the Chinese and their effect upon the labor market, +though the army of the unemployed were as a rule unwilling to do +the work their Celestial rivals engaged in, that of truck farming, +fruit raising, manual household labor, wood cutting and the like. +A heavy weight settled on the city; business grew slack; the army +of the unemployed, of ruined speculators and moneyless newcomers +grew steadily greater, and for an era San Francisco saw its dark +side. + +But this was not a long duration. There was fast developing a new +and important business, resulting from the development of the real +resources of the State--the fruits, particularly the citrous fruits +that grew abundantly in the warm valley. Fortunes were made in +oranges, lemons, limes, grapes, almonds and pears. Raisins, whose +size defied anything heretofore known, were made from the huge +grapes that grew in the San Joaquin Valley. Sonoma sent its grapes +to be made into wine. Capital flowed in from every side. Eastern +men in search of health, others in search of wealth, came to the +Golden State. No matter who came, where they came from, or where +they were going, they spent a few days, or many, and some money, or +much, in "'Frisco." The enterprise of the second edition pioneers +quickly transformed the State and city. + + +AGRICULTURE BRINGS NEW WEALTH. + + +Luxury was startling. San Francisco's mercantile community equaled +the best, the stores and shops were as beautiful as anywhere in the +world and proportionately as well patronized. Theatres, music +halls, restaurants, hotel bars and the like were ablaze with lights +at night, and patronized by a gay throng. Sutro's bath, near the +Cliff House, was a species of entertainment unequaled anywhere. +The Presidio, as the army post is still known, as in the Spanish +nomenclature, gave its drills, regarded as free exhibitions for the +people. Golden Gate Park was an endless daily picnic ground. + +The crowds in the streets of San Francisco were noticeably well +dressed and usually gay, without that fixed, drawn, saturnine look +noticeable among the people of the East. It is doubtful whether, +upon the whole, the earnings of the San Francisco man equaled those +of his Eastern brother, but his holidays were frequent and his joys +greater. The grind of life was not yet steady--men had not become +mere machines. + +The climate of California is peculiar; it is hard to give an +impression of it. In the first place, all the forces of nature +work on laws of their own in that part of California. There is no +thunder or lightning; there is no snow, except a flurry once in +five or six years; there are perhaps half a dozen nights in the +winter when the thermometer drops low enough so that there is a +little film of ice on exposed water in the morning. Neither is +there any hot weather. Yet most Easterners remaining in San +Francisco for a few days remember that they were always chilly. + + +A PECULIAR YET DELIGHTFUL CLIMATE. + + +For the Gate is a big funnel, drawing in the winds and the mists +which cool off the great, hot interior valley of San Joaquin and +Sacramento. So the west wind blows steadily ten months of the year +and almost all the mornings are foggy. This keeps the temperature +steady at about 55 degrees--a little cool for comfort of an +unacclimated person, especially indoors. Californians, used to it, +hardly ever think of making fires in their houses except in the few +exceptional days of the winter season, and then they rely mainly +upon fireplaces. This is like the custom of the Venetians and the +Florentines. + +But give an Easterner six months of it, and he, too, learns to +exist without a chill in a steady temperature a little lower than +that to which he is accustomed at home. After that one goes about +with perfect indifference to the temperature. Summer and winter +San Francisco women wear light tailor-made clothes, and men wear +the same fall-weight suits all the year around. + +Except for the modern buildings, the fruit of the last ten years, +the town presented at first sight to the newcomer a disreputable +appearance. Most of the buildings were low and of wood. In the +middle period of the 70's, when a great part of San Francisco was +building, there was some atrocious architecture perpetrated. In +that time, too, every one put bow windows on his house, to catch +all of the morning sunlight that was coming through the fog, and +those little houses, with bow windows and fancy work all down their +fronts, were characteristic of the middle class residence +districts. + +Then the Italians, who tumbled over Telegraph Hill, had built as +they listed and with little regard for streets, and their houses +hung crazily on a side hill which was little less than a precipice. +For the most part the Chinese, although they occupied an abandoned +business district, had remade the houses Chinese fashion, and the +Mexicans and Spaniards had added to their houses those little +balconies without which life is not life to a Spaniard. + +The hills are steep beyond conception. Where Vallejo Street ran up +Russian Hill it progressed for four blocks by regular steps like a +flight of stairs. + +With these hills, with the strangeness of the architecture, and +with the green gray tinge over everything, the city fell always +into vistas and pictures, a setting for the romance which hung over +everything, which has always hung over life in San Francisco since +the padres came and gathered the Indians about Mission Dolores. + +And it was a city of romance and a gateway to adventure. It opened +out on the mysterious Pacific, the untamed ocean, and most of +China, Japan, the South Sea Islands, Lower California, the west +coast of Central America, Australia that came to this country +passed in through the Golden Gate. There was a sprinkling, too, of +Alaska and Siberia. From his windows on Russian Hill one saw +always something strange and suggestive creeping through the mists +of the bay. It would be a South Sea Island brig, bringing in +copra, to take out cottons and idols; a Chinese junk with fan-like +sails, back from an expedition after sharks' livers; an old whaler, +which seemed to drip oil, back from a year of cruising in the +Arctic. Even, the tramp windjammers were deep-chested craft, +capable of rounding the Horn or of circumnavigating the globe; and +they came in streaked and picturesque from their long voyaging. + + +A MIXTURE OF RACES. + + +In the orange colored dawn which always comes through the mists of +that bay, the fishing fleet would crawl in under triangular lateen +sails, for the fishermen of San Francisco Bay are all Neapolitans, +who have brought their costumes and sail with lateen rigs shaped +like the ear of a horse when the wind fills them and stained an +orange brown. + +The "smelting pot of the races" Stevenson called the region along +the water front, for here the people of all these craft met, +Italians, Greeks, Russians, Lascars, Kanakas, Alaska Indians, black +Gilbert Islanders, Spanish-Americans, wanderers and sailors from +all the world, who came in and out from among the queer craft to +lose themselves in the disreputable shanties and saloons. The +Barbary Coast was a veritable bit of Satan's realm. The place was +made up of three solid blocks of dance halls, for the delectation +of the sailors of the world. Within those streets of peril the +respectable never set foot; behind the swinging doors of those +saloons anything might be happening, crime was as common here as +drink, and much went on of which the law was blankly ignorant. + +Not far removed from this haunt of crime was the world-famous +Chinatown, a district six blocks long and two wide, and housing +when at its fullest some 30,000 Chinese. Old business houses at +first, the new inmates added to them, rebuilt them, ran out their +own balconies and entrances, and gave them that feeling of huddled +irregularity which makes all Chinese built dwellings fall naturally +into pictures. Not only this, they burrowed to a depth equal to +three stories under the ground, and through this ran passages in +which the Chinese transacted their dark and devious affairs--as the +smuggling of opium, the traffic in slave girls and the settlement +of their difficulties, by murder if they saw fit. The law was +powerless to prevent or discover and convict the murderers. + +Chinatown is gone; the Barbary Coast is gone; the haunts of crime +have been swept by the devouring flames, and if the citizens can +prevent they will never be restored. The old San Francisco is +dead. The gayest, lightest-hearted, most pleasure-loving city of +this continent, and in many ways the most interesting and romantic, +is a horde of huddled refugees living among ruins. It may rebuild; +it probably will; but those who have known that peculiar city by +the Golden Gate and have caught its flavor of the Arabian Nights +feel that it can never be the same. When it rises out of its ashes +it will probably doubtless resemble other modern cities and have +lost its old strange flavor. + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Life in the Metropolis of the Pacific + + +Brought up in a bountiful country, where no one really has to work +very hard to live, nurtured on adventure, scion of a free and merry +stock, the real, native Californian is a distinctive type; as far +from the Easterner in psychology as the extreme Southern is from +the Yankee. He is easy going, witty, hospitable, lovable, inclined +to be unmoral rather than immoral in his personal habits, and above +all easy to meet and to know. + +Above all there is an art sense all through the populace which sets +it off from any other part of the country. This sense is almost +Latin in its strength, and the Californian owes it to the leaven of +Latin blood. + + +THE 'FRISCO RESTAURANTS. + + +With such a people life was always gay. If they did not show it on +the streets, as do the people of Paris, it was because the winds +made open cafes disagreeable at all seasons of the year. The +gayety went on indoors or out on the hundreds of estates that +fringed the city. It was noted for its restaurants. Perhaps +people who cared not how they spent their money could get the best +they wished, but for a dollar down to as low as fifteen cents the +restaurants furnished the best fare to be had anywhere at the +price. + +The country all about produced everything that a cook needs, and +that in abundance--the bay was an almost untapped fish-pond, the +fruit farms came up to the very edge of the town, and the +surrounding country produced in abundance fine meats, all cereals +and all vegetables. + +But the chefs who came from France in the early days and liked this +land of plenty were the head and front of it. They passed their +art to other Frenchmen or to the clever Chinese. Most of the +French chefs at the biggest restaurants were born in Canton, China. +Later the Italians, learning of this country where good food is +appreciated, came and brought their own style. Householders always +dined out one or two nights of the week, and boarding houses were +scarce, for the unattached preferred the restaurants. The eating +was usually better than the surroundings. + + +THE FAMOUS POODLE DOG. + + +Meals that were marvels were served in tumbledown little hotels. +Most famous of all the restaurants was the Poodle Dog. There have +been no less than four restaurants of this name, beginning with a +frame shanty where, in the early days, a prince of French cooks +used to exchange recipes for gold dust. Each succeeding restaurant +of the name has moved farther downtown; and the recent Poodle Dog +stands--or stood--on the edge of the Tenderloin in a modern five- +story building. And it typified a certain spirit that there was in +San Francisco. + +On the ground floor was a public restaurant where there was served +the best dollar dinner on earth. It ranked with the best and the +others were in San Francisco. Here, especially on Sunday night, +almost everybody went to vary the monotony of home cooking. Every +one who was any one in the town could be seen there off and on. It +was perfectly respectable. A man might take his wife and daughter +there. + +On the second floor there were private dining rooms, and to dine +there, with one or more of the opposite sex, was risque but not +especially terrible. But the third floor--and the fourth floor-- +and the fifth! The elevator man of the Poodle Dog, who had held +the job for many years and never spoke unless spoken to, wore +diamonds and was a heavy investor in real estate. + +There were others as famous in their way--Zinkaud's, where, at one +time, every one went after the theatre, and Tate's, which has +lately bitten into that trade; the Palace Grill, much like the +grills of Eastern hotels, except for the price; Delmonico's, which +ran the Poodle Dog neck and neck in its own line, and many others, +humbler, but great at the price. + + +THE BOHEMIAN CLUB. + + +To the visitor who came to see the city and who put himself in the +hands of one of its well-to-do citizens for the purpose, the few +days that followed were apt to be a whirl of mirth and sight- +seeing, made up of breakfasts, luncheons, dinners, drives, little +trips across the bay, dashes down the peninsula to the polo and +country clubs, hours spent in Bohemia, trips around the world among +all the races of the habitable globe, all of whom had their +colonies in this most cosmopolitan of American cities. + +In club life the Bohemian stood first and foremost, the famous club +whose meeting place, with all its art treasures, is now a heap of +ashes, but which was formerly 'Frisco's head-centre of mirth. +Founded by Henry George, the world-famous single tax advocate, when +he was an impecunious scribbler on the San Francisco Post, it grew +to be the choicest place of resort in the Pacific metropolis. + +Within its walls the possession of dollars was a bar rather than an +"open sesame," the master key to its circles being the knack of +telling a good story or the possession of quick and telling wit. +Fun-making was the rule there, and the only way to escape being +made its victim was the power to deliver a ready and witty retort. +In this home of good fellowship all the artists, actors, wits, +literati, fiddlers, pianists and bon vivants were members. Here an +impoverished painter could square his grill and buffet account by +giving the club a daub to hang on its walls. Here in days of old +the Sheriff used to camp regularly once a month until the members +rustled up the money to replevin the furniture. But these days of +poverty passed away, and in later years the club came to know +prosperity beyond the dreams of the good fellows who founded it. + + +THE WICKEDEST AND GAYEST. + + +The Bohemian is gone, but the spirit that founded and made it still +exists, and we may look to see it rise, like the phoenix, from its +ashes. + +San Francisco was often called the wickedest city in America. It +was hardly that, it was simply the gayest. It was not the home of +purity; neither is any other city. What other cities do behind +closed doors San Francisco did not hesitate to do in the open. + +In Eastern cities the police have driven vice into tenements, +lodging houses and apartments. San Francisco did not do that. She +had certain quarters where, according to unwritten law, vice was +allowed to abide, and she did not try to hide the fact that it +could be found there. She was not secretly immoral; she was +frankly unmoral. + +She did not believe in driving her vice from the open where it +could be recognized and controlled--prevented from doing any more +harm than it was possible to stop--into districts of the city where +good people dwell and purity would feel its contaminating +influence. There were regions in which the respectable never set +foot, haunts of acknowledged vice which for virtue to enter would +be to lose caste. + +As for its gayety, San Francisco was proud of the reputation of +being the Paris of America. Its women were beautiful, and they +knew it. They liked to adorn their beauty with fine clothes and +peacock along the streets on matinee days. If you asked a San +Francisco girl why she wore such expensive clothes, she would say, +frankly, "Because I like to have the men admire me," and she would +see no harm in saying it. There was very little sham about the San +Francisco women. Their men understood them and worshiped them. +They bore themselves with the freedom that was theirs by right of +their heritage of open-air living, the Bohemian atmosphere they +breathed, the unconventional character of their surroundings. +Their figures were strong and well moulded, their faces bloomed +with health like the roses in their gardens. They drew the wine of +laughter from their balmy California air. Sorrow and trouble sat +lightly on their shoulders. + +There was no end of enjoyments. After the theatre they would go to +Zinkaud's, Tate's, the Palace or some other of the many places of +resort, for a snack to eat and a spell under the music, which was +to be heard everywhere. + +Another part of the gay life of the city was for a private dance to +keep going all night in a fashionable residence, and at daylight, +instead of everybody going to bed, to jump into automobiles or +carriages or take the trolley cars and whizz off to the beach for a +dip in the cold salt water pool at Sutro's baths, and then, with +ravenous appetites, sit down on the Cliff House balcony to an open- +air breakfast while watching the ships sail in and out at the +Golden Gate and hearing the seals barking on the rocks. After that +home and to rest. + + +AN ALL-NIGHT TOWN. + + +The city never went to sleep altogether. It was "an all-night" +town. Few of the restaurants ever closed, none of the saloons did. +Always during the whole twenty-four hours of the day there was +"something doing" in the Tenderloin. No hour of the night was ever +free of revelry. It was marvelous how they kept it up. The +average San Franciscon could stay awake all night at a card game, +take a cold wash and a good breakfast in the morning, and go +straight downtown to business and feel none the worse for it. + +It was a gay town, a captivating, piquant, audacious, but not +especially wicked city. A Frenchy, a risque city it might justly +have been called, but it was not wicked in the sense that sordid +vice, vulgar crime and wretched squalor constitute wickedness. + +It was a lovable place that everybody longed to get back to, once +having been there. A woman, leaving it for years, watched it from +the ferryboat, and, weeping, said, "San Francisco, oh, my San +Francisco, I am leaving thee." + +Will those who left it after the fire ever get back to their old +city again? We have already expressed our doubt of this. The old +San Francisco is probably gone, never to return. The new San +Francisco will be a cleaner, saner and safer city, destitute of its +rookeries, its tenements and its Chinatown. It will be a greater +and more sightly city than that of the past, but to those who knew +and loved the old San Francisco--San Francisco the captivating, the +maddest, gayest, liveliest and most rollicking in the country-- +there must be something impressibly sad to its old inhabitants in +the reflection that the new city of the Golden Gate can never be +quite the same as the haven of their early affections. + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +Plans to Rebuild San Francisco. + + +Almost as soon as the terrible conflagration had been checked and +gotten under control by the heroic efforts of the soldiers and +firemen, a little group of the leading citizens of the desolated +city had met in the office of Mayor Eugene E. Schmitz and had begun +to plan the restoration of their municipality. It was an admirable +courage, bred in the stock of those men who in 1849 left +comfortable homes in the East to seek their fortune in the Golden +State, that inspired the loyal leaders of the present day citizens +to provide with far-seeing eyes for the rebuilding of their homes +and business houses with more orderly precision after the fire than +had been possible during the hustle of early days in a new city. + +The old San Francisco was no more, and never could be recalled save +as a memory. The local color, atmosphere, that which might be +termed the feeling of the old city, vanished with the clustered +houses, as rich in tradition as the ancient missions in whose +cloisters worshiped the Spanish padre "before the Gringo came." +Heartrending as it was to the citizens who loved their homes and +haunts to see them disappear into smoke, there was an attraction +about the city of the Golden Gate which endeared it to all +Americans. + +One of San Francisco's charms was in its defiance of precedent. +There were hills to be conquered, and San Francisco' s expanding +traffic hurled itself at the face of them. It went up and up, with +no thought of finding a way around. So it happened that on some of +the streets the steepness was too great for horses. In the centre +there are cable roads, and on either side of the rails grass grows +through the cobbles. The earlier structures on the level were put +together in haste. For the most part they remained essentially +unchanged until they fell with a crash. True, they had become +stained by time, unkempt, dwarfed by new neighbors, but nobody +desired to efface them. Away from the business section houses +appeared on the various hills, perched precariously near the brink; +houses reached by long flights and grown over with roses. The +bathing fogs touched them with gray. Moss grew on their roofs. In +the little, lofty yards calla lilies bloomed with the profusion of +weeds. The natural beauty of the site, the quaintness of the +commercial and social development of which it became the centre, +attracted the poet and the artist. It incited them to paint the +attractions and to sing the praises of their chosen home. + +But the loyal sons of those brave pioneers who founded the +metropolis were not in the least daunted by the problem of raising +from its ruins the whole vast number of dwellings and business +houses. The leaders of the people, the men who had been identified +with San Francisco since its early days, and whose great fortunes +were almost swept away by the cataclysm, lent courage to all the +wearied thousands by firm statements of their optimism. + +James D. Phelan, former Mayor of the city and one of its richest +capitalists, immediately announced his intention of rebuilding his +properties at Market and O'Farrell Streets, in the heart of the +ruined business district. William H. Crocker, one of the heaviest +losers, a nephew of Charles Crocker, who founded the Central +Pacific Railroad with Collis P. Huntington, Leland Stanford and +others, stated emphatically that he would put his shoulder to the +wheel. On receiving the first news of the disaster, and before he +knew what his losses would amount to, he said: + +"Mark my words, San Francisco will arise from these ashes a greater +and more beautiful city than ever. I don't take any stock in the +belief of some people that investors and residents will be panicky +and afraid to build up again. This calamity, terrible as it is, +will mean nothing less than a new and grander San Francisco. It is +preposterous to suggest the abandonment of the city. It is the +natural metropolis of the Pacific coast. God made it so. D. O. +Mills, the Spreckels family, everybody I know, have determined to +rebuild and to invest more than ever before. Burnham, the great +Chicago architect, has been at work for a year or more on plans to +beautify San Francisco. Terrible as this destruction has been, it +serves to clear the way for the carrying out of these plans. Why, +even now we are figuring on rebuilding. More than that, I am +confident that, except for what fire has absolutely laid waste, it +will be found that the buildings are less injured than was +supposed. Plastering, ornamental work, glass and more or less +loose material has been shaken down, but the framework, I am sure, +will be found intact in many big buildings." + +D. Ogden Mills, of New York, who owned enormous properties in the +stricken city, was equally confident. + +"We will go ahead," said he, "and build the city, and build it so +that earthquakes will not shake it down and so fire will not +destroy it, and we will have a water system which will enable us to +draw water from the sea for fire extinguishing service and other +municipal purposes. We will thus have less to fear from the +destruction of the land mains. The whole point with all of us who +own property down there is that we have to build. To let it lie +idle, piled with its ruins, would mean the throwing away of money, +and I am sure none of us intends to do that. The city will go up +like Baltimore did, and Galveston, and Charleston, and Chicago, and +there will be no lack of capital. California spirit and California +enterprise, which are always associated with the State of +California, will rise superior to this calamity." + +George Crocker, elder brother of William H. Crocker; Archer M. +Huntington, son of Collis P. Huntington; Mrs. Herman Oelrichs, Mrs. +W. K. Vanderbilt, Jr., members of the wealthy Spreckels family and +others all expressed, before the great conflagration had ceased +burning, the confident expectation that the city would rise, +Phoenix-like, from its ashes and become more beautiful and +prosperous than it had ever been in the past. + +So complete was the calamity that the Government of the United +States lent a hand in the earliest work of restoration. On April +20th, two days after the earthquake, Congress took immediate steps +to repair or replace all the public buildings damaged or destroyed +in San Francisco. The willingness of Congress to assist those in +need of work by immediately beginning the reconstruction of the +Federal buildings was indicated when Senator Scott, chairman of the +Committee on Public Buildings and Grounds, introduced a resolution +calling upon the Secretary of the Treasury for full information as +to the exact condition of the various government buildings in San +Francisco, and instructing him to submit an estimate showing the +aggregate sum needed to repair or rebuild them. The resolution +suggested that steel frames be used in any new buildings. This +resolution was adopted. It was soon learned that the new Post +Office, the Mint and the old Customs House were practically +undamaged. The branch of the United States Mint, on Fifth Street, +and the new Post Office at Seventh and Mission Streets, were +striking examples of the superiority of workmanship put into +Federal buildings. The old Mint building, surrounded by a wide +space of pavement, was absolutely unharmed. The Mint made +preparations to resume business at once. The Post Office building +also was virtually undamaged by fire. The earthquake shock did +some damage to the different entrances to the building, but the +walls were left standing in good condition. President Roosevelt +also sent a message to Congress asking that $300,000 be at once +appropriated to finish the Mare Island Navy Yard, in order that +employment might be given to the many workmen who were in extreme +need of money for the necessities of life. + +It was a most fortunate circumstance that the property records in +the Hall of Records were unharmed either by earthquake or fire. +Endless disputes and litigation over the questions of ownerships +would undoubtedly have otherwise impeded the work of those +sincerely anxious to repair their shattered fortunes and opened the +way for the unscrupulous to take unfair advantage of the general +chaos. + +But the temper of the people was such that only the boldest would +have dared to use trickery for his own ends. Every man stood at +the side of his neighbor working for himself and for the good of +all. Before the embers were cool the owners of some of the damaged +skyscrapers gave commands to proceed instantly with their +reconstruction. The Spreckels Building, the Hayward Building, the +St. Francis Hotel, the Merchants' Exchange and structures that +permitted it were ordered rushed into shape as quickly as possible. +And already contracts had been drawn up for other steel-frame +buildings to be erected with all speed. Many substantial business +men and property owners of San Francisco were in consultation with +the architects within a few days. While the work of clearing away +the debris went forward, a corps of draughtsmen was busily occupied +preparing plans for the new buildings to adorn the city. + +Mayor Schmitz telegraphed to the Mayors of all leading cities, +inquiring how many architects or architectural draughtsmen could be +induced to leave for San Francisco at once, and hundreds of young +men immediately responded to the call. Experts of the several +great contracting companies hurried to the scene and were ready to +deposit material and labor on the ground for the work of +restoration. Daniel H. Burnham, a leading architect of Chicago, +who had previously drawn plans for beautifying the city, was +summoned to superintend the work. + +All the horses, mules and wagons obtainable were immediately +pressed into service to remove the debris and clear the streets so +that traffic could be resumed. Within a week after the first +earthquake shock trolley cars were running in the principal +streets, telephone communication had been re-established in the +most needed quarters, electric lights were available and business +had begun again on a limited scale. + +Yet, in spite of the indomitable courage of the citizens and the +efficient labor of the public officers and the utility companies, +an enormous amount of work remained. Virtually every bank in San +Francisco had to be rebuilt. Only the Market Street National Bank +was left nearly undamaged. An official list of the condition of +the school buildings throughout the city showed that twenty-nine +school buildings were destroyed and that forty-four were partially, +at least, spared. Many of the latter were so damaged that they had +to be either pulled down or thoroughly repaired, and arrangements +were made to resume the short term in tents erected in the parks, +where thousands of the homeless had already found temporary +shelter. With these two vital classes of public institutions +prepared to care for the demands about to be made on them, +confidence was not lacking in other parts. Most of the foundries +and factories near the water front and south of Market Street +immediately called in all their employees and began to clear away +the wreckage and make ready for continuing business. Great credit +is due to the newspapers, nearly all of which continued their daily +issues without interruption, although their buildings, with offices +and printing plants, were entirely destroyed by the flames which +followed the earthquake. Those whose premises were early +threatened with destruction betook themselves to Oakland, seven +miles distant across the bay, and published their sheets from the +establishments of the Oakland papers. A thorough inspection shows +that comparatively little damage was done in the vicinity of the +Cliff. The Cliff House, which was at first reported to have been +hurled into the sea, not only stood, but the damage sustained by it +from the earthquake was slight. The famous Sutro baths, located +near the Cliff House, with the hundreds of thousands of square feet +of glass roofing, also were practically unharmed. Only a few of +the windows in the Sutro baths and the Cliff House were broken, and +the lofty chimney of the pumping plant of the former establishment +was cracked only a trifle. When the situation was finally summed +up, however, nearly three-fourths of the city had to be rebuilt or +remodeled, and the cost of doing this was enough to appal the +strongest hearts. + +Financially the prospect was encouraging. Not a bank lost the +contents of its fireproof vaults and remained practically unharmed, +so far as credit was concerned. + +For a number of days it was impossible to open any strong boxes on +account of the great heat which the thick walls retained, and this +naturally caused some embarrassment and lack of ready money. +Nearly all of them, however, had strong connections in Eastern +cities and large balances to their credit in other banks of America +and Europe. They were also favored by the fact that the United +States Mint and the Sub-Treasury held between them some +$245,000,000 in ready money. The Secretary of the Treasury +immediately deposited $10,000,000 to the credit of the local banks, +and financiers of the great business centres of the country added +to public confidence by prompt statements that they would +facilitate the reconstruction of the city by a liberal advancement +of funds. + +One prominent Eastern capitalist expressed the general conviction +in the following words: + +"No great city, unless it dried up entirely from lack of commercial +life blood, was ever annihilated by such a disaster as that of San +Francisco. Pompeii and Herculaneum were not great cities in the +first place, and in the second, they were completely covered, +smothered as it were, with the ashes and molten lava of the +adjoining volcano, and nearly all of their inhabitants perished. +If it be admitted that three-fourths of the superstructures, so to +speak, of San Francisco, estimated according to valuation, is +destroyed, we have yet the fact remaining that the lives of only +about one four-hundredth of its population have been lost. + +"San Francisco was not merely land and the buildings erected upon +it, but it was people, and one of the most active, most hopeful, +most vivacious human communities on the face of the earth. You +cannot long discourage such a community, unless you wipe out three- +fourths of its members. Will San Francisco rise again? Most +certainly it will. Galveston and Baltimore, not to mention +Charleston, Boston and Chicago, showed the spirit of material +resurrection in American communities, sore-smitten by calamity. +After Galveston had been made a desert of sand and debris, there +were predictions that it would never rise again. What was the +outcome? A finer Galveston than before, and finer than many years +of slow improvement in the natural course would have made it. +Baltimore is busier commercially than it was before the great fire. + +"San Francisco is exceedingly fortunate in the fact that its +moneyed institutions remain strong, with abundant supplies of +funds. It is true that many of them undoubtedly hold large numbers +of real estate mortgages as securities for loans, and that much of +the property thus represented is now in ashes. But with care and +an accommodating spirit practically all of those mortgaged can be +so nursed that they will be made absolutely good. The banks will +be found to be only too eager to afford new loans which will enable +realty owners to rebuild. You will see San Francisco rise a more +splendid city than ever, and better prepared to resist future +earthquake shocks. Because it has had this dreadful visitation is +no reason for apprehension that another like it will come within +the life of the present generation, or two or three after. The +destruction of Lisbon in the middle of the eighteenth century and +its subsequent immunity from seismic damage is a reassuring +example." + +The municipality was in excellent financial condition to meet and +rise above the extraordinary needs of the situation. It had a +bonded debt of only $4,245,100, while its realty valuation was +$402,127,261 and its personalty $122,258,406. The question of +issuing further amounts of bonds was therefore one of the first +measures considered by Mayor Schmitz and his co-workers, and an +appeal was made to the Federal Government to guarantee the proposed +loans, so that the most urgent work which lay in the city's +province could be undertaken at once and without an excessive +burden of interest. + +The vast insurance loss was divided among 107 companies, and, +though only a little more than half the damage was covered by +policies, the total swelled toward the colossal sum of +$150,000,000. Several of the largest companies were seriously +crippled by the disaster and some were forced into liquidation. To +the great relief of the entire country, nevertheless, the financial +situation was not severely affected, and there was every reason to +believe that the great bulk of the insurance would be paid. + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +The Earthquake Wave Felt Round the Earth. + + +The outbreak of earth forces at San Francisco did not stand alone. +There were others elsewhere at nearly the same time, the whole +seeming to indicate a general disturbance in the interior of the +earth's crust. Some scientists, indeed, declared that no possible +connection could exist between the eruption of Mount Vesuvius and +the earthquake at San Francisco, but others were inclined to view +certain facts in regard to recent seismic and volcanic activity as, +to say the least, suggestive. + +As to the actual cause of the California earthquake, the wisest +confession we can make is that of ignorance, there being almost as +little known as to the origin, period and coming of earthquakes as +when Pliny wrote 1,800 years ago. The Roman observer knew that the +tremor passed like a wave through the surface of the earth; he knew +that it had a given direction, and he knew that certain regions +were rife with seismic disturbance. More he could not say, and +when this is said all has been said that is known to-day. + +Setting aside these general considerations, let us return to the +question of the disaster at San Francisco on that fatal morning of +April 18th. The shock did not come unexpectedly. A month previous +there had been a severe earthquake in the Island of Formosa, and +many lives were lost there, while an enormous amount of damage was +done. Only a few days before the event in San Francisco there was +another earthquake in the same island. Still greater havoc was +caused by it than by the earthquake in March, but fewer lives were +lost, the reason being that the people were warned in time. Early +in April the eruption of Mount Vesuvius reached its height and +devastated the country around the volcano, covering an enormous +territory with ashes, and caused the loss of hundreds of lives. + +On Tuesday night, April 17th, word was received from Piatigorsk, +Circassia, that there had been two severe earthquake shocks the +previous day in Northern Caucasia. The same night a telegram from +Madrid said that the newspapers there reported that the long- +dormant volcano on Palma, the largest of the Canary Islands, was +showing signs of eruption, columns of smoke issuing from the +crater. + + +WIDESPREAD EARTH TREMORS. + + +While scientists as a rule doubt that there was any connection +between these volcanic phenomena and the earthquake at San +Francisco, yet reports from the Mount Weather observation station +in Virginia, a few miles from Washington, show that the eruptions +of Vesuvius acted on the magnetic instruments by electro-magnetic +waves in such a way as to disturb the electrical potentials at that +place. Be this as it may, there is one remarkable circumstance in +regard to all this activity. All the places mentioned--Formosa, +Southern Italy, Caucasia, and the Canary Islands--lie within a belt +bounded by lines a little north of the fortieth parallel and a +little south of the thirtieth parallel. San Francisco is just +south of the fortieth parallel, while Naples is just north of it. +The latitude of Calabria, where the terrible earthquakes occurred +in 1905, is the same as that of the territory affected by the +recent earthquake in the United States. This may or may not have +some bearing on the question. + +Whatever be thought of all this, one thing is certain, the +earthquake which laid San Francisco in ruins was felt the world +over, wherever there were instruments in position to detect and +record it. The seismograph in the government observatory at +Washington showed that the first wave, on April 18th, came at 8.19- +-equivalent to 5.19 at San Francisco; that at 8.25 there was a +stronger wave motion, and that from 8.32 to 8.35 the recording pen +was carried off the paper. The vibrations did not entirely cease +until 12.35 P. M., during this period there having been nearly half +an inch of to and fro motion in the surface of the earth. + + +RECORDS OF FOREIGN OBSERVATIONS. + + +From far away New Zealand, on the same date, the government +seismograph at the capital, Wellington, recorded seismic waves that +apparently passed round the earth five times at intervals of about +four hours each. + +Across the Atlantic, at Heidelberg, in Germany, the records showed +vibrations lasting one hour. At Sarayevo, in Bosnia, there was a +sharp shock at 11 A. M., undulating from west to east. At +Funfkirchen, in Hungary, at Laibach, in Austria, in the Isle of +Wight, off the coast of England, and all through Italy, from north +to south, the shocks were felt. + +At Hancock, Mich., a shock was felt on April 19th a mile below the +surface in the Quincy mine of such severity that one man was killed +and four injured by a fall of rock loosened by the trembling of the +earth. There is no evidence, however, that this had any connection +with the California disaster, the dates not coinciding. + +Turning to the Far East, across the Pacific, seismographs in the +Imperial University of Tokio showed that the earthquake was felt +there eleven minutes later than in San Francisco, and similar +instruments in Manila detected the arrival of the seismic waves +twenty minutes after the San Francisco shock. In this there was a +slight difference in time compared with Tokio, but, considering the +distance, near enough to prove that the disturbances came from the +same source. + +Not until the day following was any noticeable disturbance felt in +Honolulu, but on April 19th shocks were plainly felt for six +minutes and the water in the harbor rose rapidly. Panic seemed +imminent just before the shocks subsided. While earthquakes are by +no means infrequent in these islands, this was more severe than any +recorded in recent years, causing buildings to sway to and fro and +partly demolishing some of frail construction. + +If, as the majority of men qualified to discuss earthquakes seem to +think, the San Francisco earthquake had no connection with volcanic +action, but was caused by what is technically known as a "fault" in +the formation of the crust of the earth, it seems easy enough to +account for these wave motions travelling round the earth. How +widely this may really have made itself felt it is not possible to +say. Several of the great earthquakes in Japan have been recorded +in the seismographs of the observatories on every continent and in +Australia, showing that in severe disturbances of this kind the +whole surface strata quiver, alike under the oceans and over the +continents and islands. At the time of a shock, of course, half of +the world is in darkness and asleep. This is taken to account for +the fact that so far only a few observatories have reported +catching the San Francisco vibrations. + +The instruments invented for the recording of the motions of the +earth's crust are looked upon by scientists as the most delicate of +all machines. So highly sensitive are they, indeed, that the very +slightest vibratory motion is recorded perfectly. Even the tread +of feet cannot escape this instrument if sufficient to cause a +vibration. + +There are three classes of instruments for the automatic recording +of earth tremors, each with its own particular function. First is +the seismoscope, which will merely detect and record the fact that +there has been such a tremor. Some of these are so equipped as to +indicate the time of the disturbance. + +Second, is the seismometer, the function of which is to measure the +maximum force of the shock, either with or without an indication of +its direction. The third instrument is the seismograph, which is +so arranged that it will accurately record the number, succession, +direction, amplitude and period of successive oscillations. This +last instrument is by far the most delicate of the three. + +In the construction of this earthquake recording machine the maker +must so suspend a heavy body that when its normal position is +disturbed in the most infinitesimal degree no reactionary force +will be developed tending to restore it to its original position. +The inventor has never been found who could accomplish this +suspension of a body to perfection. The seismograph of to-day, +however, has reached a stage of perfection where close +approximations are obtained in the records made. + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +Vesuvius Devastates the Region of Naples. + + +We have in other chapters described the terrible work of Mount +Vesuvius in the past, from the far-off era of the destruction of +Pompeii down to the end of the last century. There comes before us +now another frightful eruption, one of the greatest in its history, +that of 1906. For thirty years before this outbreak the mighty +volcano had been comparatively quiet, rarely ceasing, indeed, to +smoke and fume, but giving little indication of the vast forces +buried in its heart. It showed some sympathy with Mont Pelee in +1902, and continued restless after that time, but it was not until +about the middle of February, 1906, that it became threatening, +lava beginning to overflow from the crater and make its lurid way +down the mountain's side. + +It was in the middle of the first week of April that these +indications rose to the danger point, the flow of lava suddenly +swelling from a rivulet to a river, pouring in a gleaming flood +over the crater's rim, and meeting the other streams that came +streaming down the volcano's rugged flank. While this went on the +mountain remained comparatively quiet, there being no explosions, +though a huge cloud of volcanic ash and cinders rose high in the +air until it hung over the crater in the shape of an enormous pine +tree, while from it a shower of dust and sand, soon to become +terrible, began to descend upon the surrounding fields and towns. + +Dangerous as is Vesuvius at any time, the people of the vicinity +dare its perils for the allurement of its fertile soil. A ring of +populous villages encircles it, flourishing vineyards and olive +groves extend on all sides, and the hand of industry does not +hesitate to attack its threatening flanks. The intervals between +its death-dealing throes are so long that the peasants are always +ready to dare destruction for the hope of winning the means of life +from its soil. + + +THE RIVERS OF LAVA. + + +All this locality was now a field of terror and death. Down on the +vineyards and villages poured the smothering ashes in an ever +increasing rain; toward them slowly and threateningly crawled the +fiery serpents of the lava streams; and from their homes fled +thousands of the terror-stricken people, frantic with horror and +dismay. A number of populous villages were threatened by the lurid +lava streams, the most endangered being Bosco Trecase, with its +10,000 inhabitants. Toward this devoted town poured steadily the +irresistible flood of molten rock. The soldiers who had been +hurried to the front sought to divert its flow by digging a wide +ditch across its course and throwing up a high bank of earth, but +they worked in vain. The demon of destruction was not to be robbed +of its prey. The liquid stream advanced like a colossal serpent of +fire, turning its head like a crawling snake to the right and left, +but keeping steadily on toward the fated town. The ditch was +filled; the bank gave way; the first house was reached and burst +into flames; the creeping stream of fire pushed on to the next +houses in its way; only then did the despairing people desert their +homes and flee for their lives, carrying with them the little they +could snatch of their treasured possessions. + +F. Marion Crawford, the novelist, who was present at this scene, +thus describes the flight of the terrified people: + +"I saw men, women and children and infants, whose mothers carried +them at the breast or in their aprons, fleeing in an endless +procession. Dogs, too, and cats were on the carts, and sometimes +even chickens, tied together by the legs, and piles of mattresses +and pillows and shapeless bundles of clothes. All were white with +dust. Under the lurid glare I saw one old woman lying on her back +across a cart, ghastly white and, if not dead already of fear and +heat and suffocation, certainly almost gone. We ourselves could +hardly breathe." + +It was on Saturday, the 7th, that Bosco Trecase became the prey of +the river of molten rock. During that night and the following day +the crisis of the eruption came. The observatory on the mountain +side was occupied by Professor Matteucci, his assistant, Professor +Perret, of New York, and two domestics, all others having been sent +away. Their description of the scene in which they found +themselves is vividly picturesque. At midnight the situation in +the observatory was terrible. The forces of the earthquake were +let loose and the ground rocked so that it was almost impossible to +stand. The roaring of the main crater was deafening, while the +volcano poured forth its contents like a fountain, and the electric +display was terrifying, constant claps of thunder following the +lurid flashes of lightning, which gave the sky a blood-red hue. + +Shortly after three o'clock in the morning the explosive energy of +the mighty mass culminated. The whole cone burst open with a +tremendous earthquake shock, from the heart of the recently silent +mountain came a deafening roar, and red-hot rocks, like the balls +from nature's mighty artillery, were hurled a half mile into the +air, while a dense mass of ashes and sand was flung to three or +four times this height. All the next day the terrible detonation +kept up, and a hail of bullet-like stones poured downward from the +skies. Rarely has a more terrible Sunday been seen. It was as if +the demons of earth and air were let loose and were seeking to +destroy man and his puny works. + + +THE CRISIS OF THE ERUPTION. + + +This frightful explosion of the 8th of April was the worst of the +dreadful display of volcanic forces, but the work kept up with +diminishing intensity much of the following week. The ashes and +cinders continued to pour down in suffocating showers, covering the +ground to a depth of four or five feet in the vicinity of the +volcano and to a considerable depth at Naples, ten miles away. The +sun disappeared behind the thick cloud that filled the air, and the +scene resembled that described by Pliny more than eighteen hundred +years before. + +Of Bosco Trecase nothing was left but the large stone church and a +few houses. Another river of lava reached the outskirts of Torre +del Greco, and a third stopped at the cemetery of Torre Annunziata. +Those towns escaped, but thousands of acres of fertile cultivated +land, with farm houses and stock, were destroyed. The peninsular +railway up the mountain was ruined and the large hotel burned. One +writer tells the following tale of what he saw on that fatal +Saturday and Sunday: + +"On the road I met hundreds of families in flight, carrying their +few miserable possessions. The spectacle of collapsing carts and +fainting women was frequently seen. When one reached the lava +stream a stupefying spectacle presented itself. From a point on +the mountain between the towns I saw four rivers of molten fire, +one of which, 200 feet wide and over 40 deep, was moving slowly and +majestically onward, devouring vineyards and olive groves. I +witnessed the destruction of a farm house enveloped on three sides +by lava. Immediately overhead the great crater was belching +incandescent rock and scoria for an incredible distance. The whole +scene was wreathed with flames, and a perpetual roar was heard. +Ever and anon the cone of the volcano was encircled with vivid +electric phenomena, amid which a downpour of liquid fire on all +sides of the crater was revealed in magnificent awfulness. In the +evening there was a frightful shock of earthquake, which was +repeated at two o'clock on Sunday morning. Simultaneously the lava +streams redoubled their onrush, and men, women and children fled +precipitately toward the sea. The lava had invaded the road behind +them." + + +A REIGN OF TERROR. + + +The great loss of life was due to the vast fall of ashes, which +crushed in hundreds of roofs and buried the occupants within the +ruins of their homes. In all the neighboring towns buildings were +destroyed in great numbers, an early estimate being that fully +5,000 houses had been partly crushed or utterly destroyed. On the +Ottajano side of the mountain, where the ashes fell in greatest +profusion, all the houses of the villages were damaged, and +Ottajano itself was left a wreck, several hundred dead bodies being +taken from its ruins. In Naples the ash fall was so incessant that +those who could afford it wore automobile coats, caps and goggles, +while the people generally sought to save their eyes and faces by +the aid of paper masks and umbrellas. The drivers of trolley cars +were obliged to wear masks of some transparent material under the +vizors of their caps. + + +DISASTERS AT SAN GIUSEPPE AND NAPLES. + + +There were two special disasters attended by serious loss of life. +On the 9th, while a congregation of two hundred or more were +attending mass in the church at San Giuseppe, the roof crushed in +from the weight of ashes upon it and fell upon the worshippers +below, few or none of whom escaped unhurt. Fifty-four dead bodies +were taken from the ruins and a large number were severely injured. +The Mayor of the town was dismissed from his office for leaving his +post of duty in the face of danger. + +The second disaster, one of the same character, took place at +Naples. This was on Tuesday, April 10th. Just previous to it the +people had been marching in religious processions through the +streets, to render thanks for the apparent cessation of the +activity of Vesuvius. Motley but picturesque processions were +these, headed by boys carrying candles, which burned simply in the +full sunshine and bearing aloft images of the Madonna or saints, +clad in gorgeous robes of cheap blue or yellow satin. Their joy +was suddenly changed to grief by tidings of a frightful disaster. +The roof of the Monte Oliveto market, fronting on the Toledo, the +main thoroughfare, had suddenly crushed in, burying more than 200 +people beneath its heavy fall. + +The market had been crowded with buyers and their children, and it +was the busiest hours of the day in the great roofed courtyard, +covering a space 600 feet square, when, with scarcely a tremor of +warning, there came a frightful crash and a dense cloud of dust +covered the scene, from out of which came heartrending screams of +agony. The volcanic ash which, unnoticed, had gathered thickly on +the roof, had broken it in by its weight. + +The news set the people frantic with grief and indignation. They +insisted that the authorities knew that the roof was unsafe and had +neglected their duty. Cursing and screaming in their intense +excitement, they surrounded the market, endeavoring with frantic +haste to remove the heavy beams from beneath which came the +appealing calls for help, many of the rescuers sobbing aloud as +they worked. It required a large force of police and soldiers to +keep them back and permit the firemen and other trained workers to +carry on more systematically the work of relief. Twelve persons +proved to have been killed, two fatally injured, twenty-four +seriously hurt and over a hundred badly bruised and cut. Among +these were many children, whose parents had sent them to do the +marketing without a dream of danger, and the grief of the parents +was intense. The Duke of Aosta, Prefect of Naples, directed the +work of rescue, while his wife assisted in the care of the injured. +As the Duchess bent in the hospital to give a cooling drink to a +badly bruised little girl she felt a kiss upon her hand. Looking +down, she saw a woman kneeling at her feet, who gratefully said: +"Your Excellency, she is all I have. I am a widow. May God reward +you." + +While this scene of horror was taking place in Naples the fate of +the town and villages grouped around the foot of the volcano seemed +as hopeless as ever. Early on the 10th the showers of ashes and +streams of lava diminished and almost ceased, but later the same +day they began again, and the terrified inhabitants feared that a +catastrophe like that which buried Pompeii and Herculaneum was +about to visit them. The lava which reached the cemetery of Torre +Annunziata turned in the direction of Pompeii as if to freshly +entomb that exhumed city of the past. A violent storm of +sulphurous rain fell at San Giuseppe, Vesuviana and Sariano, and on +all sides the fall of sand and ashes came on again in full +strength. Even with the sun shining high in the heavens the light +was a dim yellow, in the midst of which the few persons who still +haunted the stricken towns moved about in the awful stillness of +desolation like gray ghosts, their clothing, hair and beards +covered with ashes. + + +THE ERUPTION RESUMED. + + +A typical case was that of Torre del Greco. Though for thirty +hours the place had been deserted, a few ghostly figures could be +seen at intervals when the vivid flashes of lightning illuminated +the gloom-covered scene, wandering desolately about, hungry and +thirsty, their throats parched by smoke and dust, yet unable to +tear themselves away from the ruins of their late comfortable +homes. + +So deep was the ash fall that railway or tramway travel to the +inner circle of towns was impossible, and the great depth of fallen +dust choked the roads so as to render travel by carriage or on foot +very difficult. A party of officials made a tour of inspection by +automobile, visiting a number of the town, but were prevented by +the state of the roads from reaching others. Ottajano was thus cut +off from travel, and a heavy fall of ashes followed the officials +in their retreat. At Bosco Trecase the lava had gathered into a +lake, already growing solid on top, but a mass of liquid rock +beneath. + +The lava carried vast masses of burnt stone and sulphur on its +surface, like dross on melted lead, and nothing was visible toward +Bosco Trecase but endless acres of dark scoriae, broken here and +there by the greenish, curling smoke of sulphur. At one point a +great cone pine tree, torn up by its roots and turned to black +charcoal, stuck out of the mass at a sharp angle. The air was +almost unbearable, the heat intense, and few could long bear the +dangers and discomfort of the situation. + + +SCENES OF HORROR. + + +The greatest depth of ashes encountered was in the vicinity of +Ottajano. Here large areas were buried to a depth of several feet. +Soldiers had been sent there with military carts, carrying +provisions and surgical appliances, with orders to lend their aid +in the work of relief. They found it almost impossible to make +their way through the deep fine dust, and the tales of horror and +heroism they had to tell resembled those that must of old have been +borne to Rome by the fleeing inhabitants of Pompeii. + +Efforts were made to remove the children and old persons in the +carts, but when these had gone a few hundred feet it was found +that, although there were four horses harnessed to each vehicle, +they could not pull their loads through the ashes. This caused a +panic among the children, who expected to be buried in the +incessant fall from the volcano, and they fled in all directions in +the darkness and blinding rain. Searching parties went after them, +but in spite of continuous shouting and calling no trace was found +of the little ones, and numbers of the children were undoubtedly +smothered by the ashes and sand. + +Many of the inhabitants had been buried in the ruins of their +houses, and the scenes when the victims were unearthed were often +piteous and terrible. The positions of the bodies showed that the +victims had died while in a state of great terror, the faces being +convulsed with fear. Three bodies were found in a confessional of +one of the fallen churches. One body was that of an old woman who +was sitting with her right arm raised as though to ward off the +advancing danger. The second was that of a child about eight years +old. It was found dead in a position, which would indicate that +the child had fallen with a little dog close to it and had died +with one arm raised across its face, to protect itself and pet from +the crumbling ruins. The third body, that of a woman, was reduced +to an unrecognizable mass. These three victims were reverently +laid side by side while a procession of friends and relatives +offered up prayers beside them. + +One soldier rode his horse through the ashes reaching up to its +flanks, calling out, "Who wants help?" He was rewarded by hearing +a woman's voice reply in weak tones and, springing from his horse, +he floundered through the ashes to the ruined walls of a house from +which the voice seemed to come. As he made his way through the +soft, treacherous layer of scoriae which surrounded the destroyed +habitation, and with difficulty worked his way toward the building +the soldier shouted words of encouragement and, climbing over a +heap of ruins and braving a toppling wall, entered the building. +In the cellar he found the bodies of three children. Near them was +a woman, barely alive, who by almost superhuman efforts for hours +had succeeded in freeing herself from a mass of debris which had +fallen upon her. The soldier picked the woman up in his arms and +carried her to a place of safety. It was found that both legs were +broken and that she had been badly crushed about the body. + +Some extraordinary escapes from death took place. A man and his +four children were rescued after having been lost in the ash- +covered wilderness for fifty-six hours. They were terribly +exhausted, and were reduced almost to skeletons. + +Robert Underwood Johnson, one of the editors of the "Century +Magazine, who happened to be in Rome at the time of the eruption, +made one of a party who ventured as near the scene of destruction +as they could safely approach. From his graphic story of his +experiences we copy some of the most interesting details. + + +AN AMERICAN OBSERVER. + + +"We caught a train for Torre Annunziata, three miles this side of +Pompeii and two miles from the southern end of the wedge of lava +which destroyed Bosco Trecase. We had a magnificent view of the +eruption, eight miles away. Rising at an angle of fifty degrees, +the vast mass of tumult roundness was beautifully accentuated by +the full moon, shifting momentarily into new forms and drifting +south in low, black clouds of ashes and cinders reaching to Capri. +At Torre del Greco we ran under this terrifying pall, apparently a +hundred feet above, the solidity of which was soon revealed in the +moonlight. The torches of the railway guards added to the effect, +but greatly relieved the sulphurous darkness. + +"We reached Torre Annunziata at three in the morning. There was +little suggestion of a disaster as we trudged through the sleeping +town to the lava, two miles away. The brilliant moon gave us a +superb view of the volcano, a gray-brown mass rising, expanding and +curling in with a profile like a monstrous cyclopean face. But +nothing in mythology gives a suggestion of the fascination of this +awful force, presenting the sublime beauty above, but in its +descent filled with the mysterious malignance of God's underworld. + +"We reached the lava at a picturesque cypress-planted cemetery on +the northern boundary of Torre Annunziata. It was as if the dead +had effectually cried out to arrest the crushing river of flames +which pitilessly engulfed the statue of St. Anne with which the +people of Bosco Reale tried to stay it, as at Catania the veil of +St. Agathe is said to have stayed a similar stream from Mount Etna. + +"We climbed on the lava. It was cool above but still alive with +fire below. We could see dimly the extent of the destruction +beyond the barrier of brown which had enclosed the streets, torn +down the houses, invaded the vineyards and broken Cook's railways. +A better idea of the surroundings was obtained at dawn from the +railway. We saw north what was left of Bosco Trecase--a great, +square stone church and a few houses inland in a sea of dull, brown +lava. North and east rose a thousand patches of blue smoke like +swamp miasma. All was dull and desolate slag, with nowhere the +familiar serpentine forms of the old lava streams. In terrible +contrast with the volcanic evidences were strong cypresses and +blooming camelias in a neighboring cemetery. + +"We ate a hasty luncheon before sunrise, when the great beauty of +the scene was revealed. The column now seemed higher and more +massive, rising to three times the height of Vesuvius. Each +portion had a concentric motion and new aspects. The south edges +floating toward the sea showed exquisite curved surfaces, due to +the upper moving current. It was like the decoration of the side +of a great sarcophagus. As a yellow dust hangs over Naples and +hides the volcano, I count myself fortunate to have seen all day +from leeward this spectacle of changing, undiminishing beauty. + +"The wedge of cultivated land ruined east of the volcano extended +at least ten miles, with a width of twenty or thirty miles. Fancy +a rich and thickly populated country of vineyards lying under three +to six inches of ashes and cinders of the color of chocolate with +milk, while above, to the west, the volcano in full activity is +distributing to the outer edges of the circle the same fate, and +you will get an idea of the desolate impression of the scene, a +tragedy colossal and heartrending. Like that of Calabria, it +enlists the sympathy of the civilized world. It takes time for +such a calamity to be realized. + +"Two miles below San Giuseppe we struck cinders which the soldiers +were shoveling, making a narrow road for the refugees. Our wagon +driver begged off from completing his contract to take us to San +Giuseppe. We had not the heart to insist, so the rest of the +journey to the railway at Palma, eight miles, was made laboriously +on foot for three hours through sliding cinders. + +"In many places temporary shelters had been built by the roadside, +like children's playhouses. Here women were huddled with their +bedding, awaiting the coming of supplies which the army had begun +to distribute. The men were largely occupied with shoveling +cinders from the stronger roofs and floors into heaps three to six +feet deep along the roadside. Many two-wheeled carts loaded with +salvage, drawn by donkeys or pushed by peasants, were making their +way along, the women with bundles on their heads or carrying +poultry. + +"In the square of San Giuseppe was an encampment of soldiers, with +low tents. Near a destroyed church, in coarse yellow linen +shrouds, were the bodies of thirty-three of the persons who there +lost their lives. The peasants were sad, but uncomplaining; in +fact, for so excitable a people they were wonderfully calm. As +evidence of the thrift and self-respect of these, we were not once +asked for alms during the afternoon." + + +THE KING AT THE FRONT. + + +The Italian Government did all it could at the moment to alleviate +the horrors of the situation, sending money to be expended in +relief work and dispatching high officials of the government to +give aid and encouragement by their presence. The King, Victor +Emmanuel, and Queen Helene reached the scene of destruction as +early as possible and lent their personal assistance to the work of +rescue. + +Obliged to leave his automobile, which could not move over the +cinder-choked road, the King went forward with difficulty on +horseback, the animal floundering through four feet of ashes, +stumbling into holes, and half blinded by the fall of dust and +cinders. + +"How did you escape?" he asked a priest whom he met in his journey. + +"I put myself in safety," was the reply. + +"What do you mean?" asked the King. + +"Realizing the danger, I left Nola." + +"What!" cried the King, with a flush of anger. "You, a minister of +God, were not here to share the danger of your people and +administer the last sacraments? You did very wrong and forgot your +duty." + +Reaching Ottejano, the King did what he could to expedite the work +of rescue at that central point of disaster, more than a hundred +dead bodies being taken from the ruins in his presence. He stood +with set pale face watching the removal of the victims and +directing the movement of the workers. During his visit at the +front he inspected the temporary camp hospitals, in which the +soldiers were caring for the injured and suffering, speaking to the +poor victims, giving them what comfort he could, and asking what he +could do to relieve their distress. Every request or desire was +received with sympathy and orders given to have it fulfilled. + +A pitiful scene took place when the King bent over a poor man, +whose right leg had been amputated, and asked what he could do to +comfort and aid him in his affliction. + +"Send me my son, who is serving as a soldier," said the maimed +peasant. + +The King, visibly affected, clasped the old man's hand and +exclaimed: + +"My poor fellow! I can do much, but to grant your request would +mean breaking the laws, which I must be the first to respect. I +would give anything I have were it possible by so doing to send +your son to you, but I cannot do so." + +While the King was thus engaged at the scenes of desolation, Queen +Helene visited the charitable institutions at Naples and inspected +the places where the refugees were housed, doing what she could to +improve conditions and add to the comfort of the sufferers. The +Princess of Schleswig-Holstein, who was in Naples, made an +automobile visit to the afflicted towns, but the motor broke down, +and she was forced to return on foot, walking a distance of twelve +miles through the ashes and displaying a power of endurance that +surprised the natives. + + +THE CANOPY OF DUST. + + +By Friday, April 13th, the eruption was practically at an end. +Vesuvius had spent itself in the enormous convulsion of the 7th and +8th and the subsequent minor explosions and had returned to its +normal state, ceasing to give any signs of life, except the cloud +of smoke which still rose from its crater and spread like a thick +curtain over and around the mountain. Looked at from Naples, there +was none of the familiar aspects of the volcano, with its output of +smoke and ashes by day and fiery gleam by night. Now it lay buried +in darkness and obscurity, clothed in a dense pall of smoke. At +Rome there was sunshine, but twenty miles south hung a misty veil, +and twenty-five miles above Naples a zone of semi-obscurity began, +blotting out the sun, whose light trickled through with a sickly +glare. Everything was whitened with powdery dust; pretty white +villas were daubed and dripping with mud, and people were busy +shoveling the ashes from their roofs. + +The crowds at the stations resembled millers, their clothes flour +covered; the Campania presented the appearance of a Dakota prairie +after a blizzard of snow, though everything was gray instead of +white. The ashes lay in drifts knee deep. As the volcano was +approached semi-night replaced the day, the gloom being so deep +that telegraph poles twenty feet away could not be seen. Breathing +was difficult, and the smoke made the eyes water. At Naples, +however, a favorable wind had cleared the air of smoke, the sun +shone brightly, and the versatile people were happy once more. The +goggles and eye-screens had disappeared, but the streets were +anything but comfortable, for some six thousand men were at work +clearing the ashes from the roofs and main streets and piling them +in the middle of the narrow streets, making the passage of vehicles +very difficult and the sidewalks far from comfortable for foot +passengers. + +But while brightness and joy reigned at Naples, there were gruesome +scenes within the volcanic zone. At Bosco Trecase soldiers carried +on the work of exhumation, being able to work only an hour at a +time on account of the advanced stage of decomposition of the +bodies. Many of these were shapeless, unrecognizable masses of +flesh and bones, while others were little disfigured. To lessen +the danger of an epidemic the bodies were buried as quickly as +possible in quicklime. + +On Sunday, the 15th, the searchers at Ottejano were surprised at +finding two aged women still alive, after six days' entombment in +the ruins. They were among those who had been buried by the +falling walls a week before. The rafters of the house had +protected them, and a few morsels of food in their pockets aided to +keep them alive. At some points there the ashes were ten feet +deep. At San Giuseppe bodies of women were found in whose hands +were coins and jewels, and one woman held a jewelled rosary. This +recalls the results of exploration at Herculaneum and Pompeii, +where were similar instances of death overtaking the victims of the +volcano while fleeing with their jewels in their hands. + +It is interesting to learn that two men stood heroically to their +post of duty during the whole scene of the explosion, Professor +Matteucci, Director of the Royal Observatory, and his American +assistant, Professor Frank A. Perret, of New York. Though the +building occupied by them was exposed to the full force of the rain +of stones from the burning mountain, they remained undauntedly at +their post through that week of terror. On the 14th some of that +venturesome fraternity, the newspaper correspondents, reached their +eyrie on the highest habitable point on Vesuvius and heard the +story of their experiences. + + +THE HEROES OF THE OBSERVATORY. + + +For several days Professors Matteucci and Perret and their two +servants had been cut off from the outside world and bombarded by +the volcano, their rations consisting of bread, cheese and dried +onions, until on Friday a hardy guide was induced to push through +to them with some provisions. During the eruption the Professor +had kept at his instruments, taking observations day and night and +making calculations in the midst of the inferno. Roughly dressed, +he looked like a Western cowboy after a hard ride in a dust storm. +The portico where he stood was knee deep in ashes, and from the +observatory terrace narrow paths had been cut through the ashes, +but as far as the eye could reach an ocean of ashes and twisted +rivers were alone visible, with Vesuvius rising grimly in the +midst. The great monster was enveloped in a cloak of white, as if +buried under a snowstorm, its surface being here and there slit +with gulches in which lava ran. At the bottom of one of those +gulches lay the wrecked remnants of the peninsular railway, a +portion of its twisted cable protruding through the ashes. As the +correspondents ascended the mountain they were surprised by the +apparition of natives, men wrinkled with age, who emerged from +dugouts just below the observatory and offered them milk and eggs, +just as if they were ordinary visitors to the volcano. As they +descended they heard the sound of a mandolin from one of these +dugouts. Evidently Vesuvius had no terrors for these case-hardened +veterans. + +We have already told the story gleaned by the correspondents from +the daring scientists. Matteucci completed his record of boldness +on Friday, the 13th, by climbing to a point far above the +observatory, at the imminent risk of his life, to observe the +conditions then existing. From what he says he believed the end of +the disturbance near, though he did not venture to predict. As for +the ashes, which a light wind was then blowing in a direction away +from Naples, he said: "The ill wind is now blowing good to other +places, for ashes are the best fertilizer it is possible to use. +It is merely a question just now of having too much of a good +thing." + +This is a fact so far as the volcanic ash is concerned. An +examination of the ashes a few days ago shows that they will prove +an active and valuable fertilizer. The fertile slopes of Vesuvius +have ever been an allurement to the vine-grower, four crops a year +being a temptation no possible danger could drive him from, and as +soon as the mountain grows surely peaceful after this eruption, we +shall find its farmers risking again the chance of its uncertain +temper. But this is not the case with the land covered with lava +and cinders. Time for their disintegration is necessary before +they can be brought under cultivation, and this is a matter of +years. After the great eruption of 1871-72 the land covered with +cinders did not bear crops for seven years, and there is no reason +that they will do so sooner on the present occasion. So for years +to come much of the volcanic soil must remain a barren and desert +void. + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +The Great Lisbon and Calabrian Earthquakes. + + +To our account of the great earth convulsions of San Francisco it +is in place to append a description of some similar events of older +date. It is due to the same causes, whatever these causes may be, +the imprisoned forces within the earth acting over great distances +during the earthquake, while they are concentrated within some +limited space when the volcano begins its work. The earthquake is +the most terrible to mankind of all the natural agencies of +destruction. While the volcano usually has a greater permanent +effect upon surface conditions, it is, as a rule, much less +destructive to human life, the earthquake often shaking down cities +and burying all their inhabitants in one common grave. Violent +earthquakes are also of far more frequent occurrence than +destructive volcanic eruptions, many hundreds of them having taken +place during the historic period. + +While the earthquake is only indirectly connected with the subject +of our work, it seems desirable to make some mention of it here, at +least so far as relates to those terrible convulsions whose +destructiveness has given them special prominence in the history of +great disasters. Ancient notable examples are those which threw +down the famous Colossus of Rhodes and the Pharos of Alexandria. +The city of Antioch was a terrible sufferer from this affliction, +it having been devastated some time before the Christian era, while +in the year 859 more than 15,000 of its houses were destroyed. Of +countries subject to earthquakes, Japan has been an especial +sufferer, in some cases mountains or islands being elevated in +association with shocks; in others, great tracts of land being +swallowed up by the sea. The number of deaths in some of these +instances was enormous. + +Numerous thrilling examples of the destructive work of the +earthquake at various periods are on record. Of these we have +given elsewhere a tabular list of the more important, and shall +confine ourselves to a few striking examples of its destructive +action. In the record of great earthquakes, one of the most famous +is that which in 1755 visited the city of Lisbon, the capital of +Portugal, and left that populous, place in ruin and dire distress. +It may be well to recall the details of this dire event to the +memories of our readers. + + +THE GREAT LISBON EARTHQUAKE + + +On the night of the 31st of October, 1755, the citizens of the fair +city of Lisbon lay down to sleep, in merciful ignorance of what was +awaiting them on the morrow. The morning of the 1st of November +dawned, and gave no sign of approaching calamity. The sun rose in +its brightness, the warmth was genial, the breezes gentle, the sky +serene. It was All Saints' Day--a high festival of the Church of +Rome. The sacred edifices were thronged with eager crowds, and the +ceremonies were in full progress, when the assembled throngs were +suddenly startled from their devotions. From the ground beneath +came fearful sounds that drowned the peal of the organ and the +voices of the choirs. These underground thunders having rolled +away, an awful silence ensued. The panic-stricken multitudes were +paralyzed with terror. Immediately after the ground began to heave +with a long and gentle swell, producing giddiness and faintness +among the people. The tall piles swayed to and fro, like willows +in the wind. Shrieks of horror rose from the terrified assembly. +Again the earth heaved, and this time with a longer and higher +wave. Down came the ponderous arches, the stately columns, the +massive walls, the lofty spires, tumbling upon the heads of priests +and people. The graven images, the deified wafers, and they who +had knelt in adoration before them--the worshipped and the +worshippers alike--were in a moment buried under one +undistinguishable mass of horrible ruins. Only a few, who were +near the doors, escaped to tell the tale. + +It fared no better with those who had remained in their dwellings. +The terrible earth-wave overthrew the larger number of the private +houses in the city, burying their inhabitants under the crumbling +walls. Those who were in the streets more generally escaped, +though some there, too, were killed by falling walls. + +The sudden overthrow of so many buildings raised vast volumes of +fine dust, which filled the atmosphere and obscured the sun, +producing a dense gloom. The air was full of doleful sounds--the +groans of agony from the wounded and the dying, screams of despair +from the horrified survivors, wails of lamentation from the +suddenly bereaved, dismal howlings of dogs, and terrified cries of +other animals. + +In two or three minutes the clouds of dust fell to the ground, and +disclosed the scene of desolation which a few seconds had wrought. +The ruin, though general, was not universal. A considerable number +of houses were left standing--fortunately tenantless--for a third +great earth-wave traversed the city, and most of the buildings +which had withstood the previous shocks, already severely shaken, +were entirely overthrown. + + +WATER ADDS TO THE DESTRUCTION + + +The last disaster filled the surviving citizens with the impulse of +flight. The more fortunate of them ran in the direction of the +open country, and succeeded in saving their lives; but a great +multitude rushed down to the harbor, thinking to escape by sea. +Here, however, they were met by a new and unexpected peril. The +tide, after first retreating for a little, came rolling in with an +immense wave, about fifty feet in height, carrying with it ships, +barges and boats, and dashing them in dire confusion upon the +crowded shore. Overwhelmed by this huge wave, great numbers were, +on its retreat, swept into the seething waters and drowned. A vast +throng took refuge on a fine new marble quay, but recently +completed, which had cost much labor and expense. This the sea- +wave had spared, sweeping harmless by. But, alas! it was only for +a moment. The vast structure itself, with the whole of its living +burden, sank instantaneously into an awful chasm which opened +underneath. The mole and all who were on it, the boats and barges +moored to its sides, all of them filled with people, were in a +moment ingulfed. Not a single corpse, not a shred of raiment, not +a plank nor a splinter floated to the surface, and a hundred +fathoms of water covered the spot. To the first great sea-wave +several others succeeded, and the bay continued for a long time in +a state of tumultuous agitation. + +About two hours after the first overthrow of the buildings, a new +element of destruction came into play. The fires in the ruined +houses kindled the timbers, and a mighty conflagration, urged by a +violent wind, soon raged among the ruins, consuming everything +combustible, and completing the wreck of the city. This fire, +which lasted four days, was not altogether a misfortune. It +consumed the thousands of corpses which would otherwise have +tainted the air, adding pestilence to the other misfortunes of the +survivors. Yet they were threatened with an enemy not less +appalling, for famine stared them in the face. Almost everything +eatable within the precincts of the city had been consumed. A set +of wretches, morever, who had escaped from the ruins of the +prisons, prowled among the rubbish of the houses in search of +plunder, so that whatever remained in the shape of provisions fell +into their hands and was speedily devoured. They also broke into +the houses that remained standing, and rifled them of their +contents. It is said that many of those who had been only injured +by the ruins, and might have escaped by being extricated, were +ruthlessly murdered by those merciless villains. + +The total loss of life by this terrible catastrophe is estimated at +60,000 persons, of whom about 40,000 perished at once, and the +remainder died afterwards of the injuries and privations they +sustained. Twelve hundred were buried in the ruins of the general +hospital, eight hundred in those of the civil prison, and several +thousands in those of the convents. The loss of property amounted +to many millions sterling. + + +WIDE-SPREAD DESTRUCTION + + +Although the earth-wave traversed the whole city, the shock was +felt more severely in some quarters than in others. All the older +part of the town, called the Moorish quarter, was entirely +overthrown; and of the newer part, about seventy of the principal +streets were ruined. Some buildings that withstood the shocks were +destroyed by fire. The cathedral, eighteen parish churches, almost +all the convents, the halls of the inquisition, the royal +residence, and several other fine palaces of the nobility and +mansions of the wealthy, the custom-houses, the warehouses filled +with merchandise, the public granaries filled with corn, and large +timber yards, with their stores of lumber, were either overthrown +or burned. + +The king and court were not in Lisbon at the time of this great +disaster, but were living in the neighborhood at the castle of +Belem, which escaped injury. The royal family, however, were so +alarmed by the shocks, that they passed the following night in +carriages out of doors. None of the officers of state were with +them at the time. On the following morning the king hastened to +the ruined city, to see what could be done toward restoring order, +aiding the wounded, and providing food for the hungry. + +The royal family and the members of the court exerted themselves to +the uttermost, the ladies devoting themselves to the preparation of +lint and bandages, and to nursing the wounded, the sick, and the +dying, of whom the numbers were overwhelming. Among the sufferers +were men of quality and once opulent citizens, who had been reduced +in a moment to absolute penury. The kitchens of the royal palace, +which fortunately remained standing, were used for the purpose of +preparing food for the starving multitudes. It is said that during +the first two or three days a pound of bread was worth an ounce of +gold. One of the first measures of the government was to buy up +all the corn that could be obtained in the neighborhood of Lisbon, +and to sell it again at a moderate price, to those who could afford +to buy, distributing it gratis to those who had nothing to pay. + +For about a month afterward earthquake shocks continued, some of +them severe. It was several months before any of the citizens +could summon courage to begin rebuilding the city. But by degrees +their confidence returned. The earth had relapsed into repose, and +they set about the task of rebuilding with so much energy, that in +ten years Lisbon again became one of the most beautiful capitals of +Europe. + + +CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LISBON EARTHQUAKE + + +The most distinguishing peculiarities of this earthquake were the +swallowing up of the mole, and the vast extent of the earth's +surface over which the shocks were felt. Several of the highest +mountains in Portugal were violently shaken, and rent at their +summits; huge masses falling from them into the neighboring +valleys. These great fractures gave rise to immense volumes of +dust, which at a distance were mistaken for smoke by those who +beheld them. Flames were also said to have been observed: but if +there were any such, they were probably electrical flashes produced +by the sudden rupture of the rocks. + +The portion of the earth's surface convulsed by this earthquake is +estimated by Humboldt to have been four times greater than the +whole extent of Europe. The shocks were felt not only over the +Spanish peninsula, but in Morocco and Algeria they were nearly as +violent. At a place about twenty-four miles from the city of +Morocco, there is said to have occurred a catastrophe much +resembling what took place at the Lisbon mole. A great fissure +opened in the earth, and an entire village, with all its +inhabitants, upwards of 8,000 in number, were precipitated into the +gulf, which immediately closed over its prey. + + +EARTHQUAKES IN CALABRIA + + +Of the numerous other examples of destructive earthquakes which +might be chosen from Old World annals, it will not be amiss to +append a brief account of those which took place in Calabria, +Italy, in 1783. These, while less wide-spread in their influence, +were much longer in duration than the Lisbon cataclysm, since they +continued, at intervals, from the 5th of February until the end of +the year. The shocks were felt all over Sicily and as far north as +Naples, but the area of severe convulsion was comparatively +limited, not exceeding five hundred square miles. + +The centre of disturbance seems to have been under the town of +Oppido in the farther Calabria, and it extended in every direction +from that spot to a distance of about twenty-two miles, with such +violence as to overthrow every city, town and village lying within +that circle. This ruin was accomplished by the first shock on the +5th of February. The second, of equal violence, on the 28th of +March, was less destructive, only because little or nothing had +been left for it to overthrow. + +At Oppido the motion was in the nature of a vertical upheaval of +the ground, which was accompanied by the opening of numerous large +chasms, into some of which many houses were ingulfed, the chasms +closing over them again almost immediately. The town itself was +situated on the summit of a hill, flanked by five steep and +difficult slopes; it was so completely overthrown by the first +shock that scarcely a fragment of wall was left standing. The hill +itself was not thrown down, but a fort which commanded the approach +to the place was hurled into the gorge below. It was on the flats +immediately surrounding the site of the town and on the rising +grounds beyond them that the great fissures and chasms were opened. +On the slope of one of the hills opposite the town there appeared a +vast chasm, in which a large quantity of soil covered with vines +and olive-trees was engulfed. This chasm remained open after the +shock, and was somewhat in the form of an amphitheatre, 500 feet +long and 200 feet in depth. + + +MOST CALAMITOUS OF THE LANDSLIPS + + +The most calamitous of the landslips occurred on the sea-coast of +the Straits of Messina, near the celebrated rock of Scilla, where +huge masses fell from the tall cliffs, overwhelming many villas and +gardens. At Gian Greco a continuous line of precipitous rocks, +nearly a mile in length, tumbled down. The aged Prince of Scilla, +after the first great shock on the 5th of February, persuaded many +of his vassals to quit the dangerous shore, and take refuge in the +fishing boats--he himself showing the example. That same night, +however, while many of the people were asleep in the boats, and +others on a flat plain a little above the sea-level, another +powerful shock threw down from the neighboring Mount Jaci a great +mass, which fell with a dreadful crash, partly into the sea, and +partly upon the plain beneath. Immediately the sea rose to a +height of twenty feet above the level ground on which the people +were stationed, and rolling over it, swept away the whole +multitude. This immense wave then retired, but returned with still +greater violence, bringing with it the bodies of the men and +animals it had previously swept away, dashing to pieces the whole +of the boats, drowning all that were in them, and wafting the +fragments far inland. The prince with 1,430 of his people perished +by this disaster. + +It was on the north-eastern shore of Sicily, however, that the +greatest amount of damage was done. The first severe shock, on the +5th of February, overthrew nearly the whole of the beautiful city +of Messina, with great loss of life. The shore for a considerable +distance along the coast was rent, and the ground along the port, +which was before quite level, became afterwards inclined towards +the sea, the depth of the water having, at the same time, increased +in several parts, through the displacement of portions of the +bottom. The quay also subsided about fourteen inches below the +level of the sea, and the houses near it were much rent. But it +was in the city itself that the most terrible desolation was +wrought--a complication of disasters having followed the shock, +more especially a fierce conflagration, whose intensity was +augmented by the large stores of oil kept in the place. + + +IMMENSE DESTRUCTION + + +According to official reports made soon after the events, the +destruction caused by the earthquakes of the 5th of February and +28th of March throughout the two Calabrias was immense. About 320 +towns and villages were entirely reduced to ruins, and about fifty +others seriously damaged. The loss of life was appalling--40,000 +having perished by the earthquakes, and 20,000 more having +subsequently died from privation and exposure, or from epidemic +diseases bred by the stagnant pools and the decaying carcases of +men and animals. The greater number were buried amid the ruins of +the houses, while others perished in the fires that were kindled in +most of the towns, particularly in Oppido, where the flames were +fed by great magazines of oil. Not a few, especially among the +peasantry dwelling in the country, were suddenly engulfed in +fissures. Many who were only half buried in the ruins, and who +might have been saved had there been help at hand, were left to die +a lingering death from cold and hunger. Four Augustine monks at +Terranuova perished thus miserably. Having taken refuge in a +vaulted sacristy, they were entombed in it alive by the masses of +rubbish, and lingered for four days, during which their cries for +help could be heard, till death put an end to their sufferings. + +Of still more thrilling interest was the case of the Marchioness +Spastara. Having fainted at the moment of the first great shock, +she was lifted by her husband, who, bearing her in his arms, +hurried with her to the harbor. Here, on recovering her senses, +she observed that her infant boy had been left behind. Taking +advantage of a moment when her husband was too much occupied to +notice her, she darted off and, running back to the house, which +was still standing, she snatched her babe from its cradle. Rushing +with him in her arms towards the staircase, she found the stair had +fallen--cutting off all further progress in that direction. She +fled from room to room, pursued by the falling materials, and at +length reached a balcony as her last refuge. Holding up her +infant, she implored the few passers-by for help; but they all, +intent on securing their own safety, turned a deaf ear to her +cries. Meanwhile the mansion had caught fire, and before long the +balcony, with the devoted lady still grasping her darling, was +hurled into the devouring flames. + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +The Charleston and Other Earthquakes of the United States. + + +The twin continents of America have rivalled the record of the Old +World in their experience of earthquakes since their discovery in +1492. The first of these made note of was in Venezuela in 1530, +but they have been numerous and often disastrous since. Among them +was the great shock at Lima in 1746, by which 18,000 were killed, +and those at Guatemala in 1773, with 33,000, and at Riobamba in +1797, with 41,000 victims. It will, however, doubtless prove of +more interest to our readers if we pass over these ruinous +disasters and confine ourselves to the less destructive earthquakes +which have taken place within our own country. + +The United States, large a section of North America as it occupies, +is fortunate in being in a great measure destitute of volcanic +phenomena, while destructive earthquakes have been very rare in its +history. This, it is true, does not apply to the United States as +it is, but as it was. It has annexed the volcano and the +earthquake with its new accessions of territory. Alaska has its +volcanoes, the Philippines are subject to both forms of convulsion, +and in Hawaii we possess the most spectacular volcano of the earth, +while the earthquake is its common attendant. But in the older +United States the volcano contents itself with an occasional puff +of smoke, and eruptive phenomena are confined to the minor form of +the geyser. + +We are by no means so free from the earthquake. Slight movements +of the earth's surface are much more common than many of us +imagine, and in the history of our land there have been a number of +earth shocks of considerable violence. Prior to that of San +Francisco, the most destructive to life and property was that of +Charleston in 1886, though the 1812 convulsion in the Mississippi +Valley might have proved a much greater calamity but for the fact +that civilized man had not then largely invaded its centre of +action. + +As regards the number of earth movements in this country, we are +told that in New England alone 231 were recorded in two hundred and +fifty years, while doubtless many slighter ones were left +unrecorded. Taking the whole United States, there were 364 +recorded in the twelve years from 1872 to 1883, and in 1885 fifty- +nine were recorded, more than two-thirds of them being on the +Pacific slope. Most of these, however, were very slight, some of +them barely perceptible. + +Confining ourselves to those of the past important in their +effects, we shall first speak of the shocks which took place in New +England in 1755, in the year and month of the great earthquake at +Lisbon. On the 18th of November of that year, while the shocks at +Lisbon still continued, New England was violently shaken, loud +underground explosive noises accompanying the shocks. In the +harbors along the Atlantic coast there was much agitation of the +waters and many dead fish were thrown up on the shores. The shock, +indeed, was felt far from the coast, by the crew of a ship more +than two hundred miles out at sea from Cape Ann, Massachusetts. + +This event, however, was of minor importance, being much inferior +to that of 1812, in which year California and the Mississippi +Valley alike were affected by violent movements of the earth's +crust. The California convulsions took place in the spring and +summer of that year, extending from the beginning of May until +September. Throughout May the southern portion of that region was +violently agitated, the shocks being so frequent and severe that +people abandoned their houses and slept on the open ground. The +most destructive shocks came in September, when two Mission houses +were destroyed and many of their inmates killed. At Santa Barbara +a tidal wave invaded the coast and flowed some distance into the +interior. + +It may be said here that California has proved more subject to +severe shocks than any other section of our country. In 1865 sharp +tremors shook the whole region about the Bay of San Francisco, many +buildings being thrown down. Hardly any of brick or stone escaped +injury, though few lives were lost. In 1872 a disturbance was felt +farther west, the whole range of the Sierra Nevada mountains being +violently shaken and the earth tremblings extending into the State +of Nevada. The centre of activity was along the crest of the +range, and immense quantities of rock were thrown down from the +mountain pinnacles. A tremendous fissure opened along the eastern +base of the mountain range for forty miles, the land to the west of +the opening rising and that to the east sinking several feet. One +small settlement, that of Lone Pine, in Owen's Valley, on the east +base of the mountains, was completely demolished, from twenty to +thirty lives being lost. Luckily, the region affected had very few +inhabitants, or the calamity might have been great. + +The earthquakes of 1812 in the Mississippi Valley began in +December, 1811, and continued at intervals until 1813. As a rule +they were more distinguished by frequency than violence, though on +several occasions they were severe and had marked effects. They +extended through the valleys of the Mississippi, Arkansas and Ohio, +and their long continuance was remarkable in view of the territory +affected being far from any volcanic region. + +The surface of the valley of the Mississippi was a good deal +altered by these convulsions--several new lakes being formed, while +others were drained. Several new islands were also raised in the +river, and during one of the shocks the ground a little below New +Madrid was for a short time lifted so high as to stop the current +of the Mississippi, and cause it to flow backward. The ground on +which this town is built, and the bank of the river for fifteen +miles above it, subsided permanently about eight feet, and the +cemetery of the town fell into the river. In the neighboring +forest the trees were thrown into inclined positions in every +direction, and many of their trunks and branches were broken. It +is affirmed that in some places the ground swelled into great +waves, which burst at their summits and poured forth jets of water, +along with sand and pieces of coal, which were tossed as high as +the tops of trees. On the subsidence of these waves, there were +left several hundreds of hollow depressions from ten to thirty +yards in diameter, and about twenty feet in depth, which remained +visible for many years afterward. Some of the shocks were +vertical, and others horizontal, the latter being the most +mischievous. These earthquakes resulted in the general subsidence +of a large tract of country, between seventy and eighty miles in +length from north to south, and about thirty miles in breadth from +east to west. Lakes now mark many of the localities affected by +the earthquake movements. It is only to the fact that this country +was then very thinly settled that a great loss of life was avoided. + +New Madrid, Missouri, was a central point of this earthquake, the +shocks there being repeated with great frequency for several +months. The disturbance of the earth, however, was not confined to +the United States, but affected nearly half of the western +hemisphere, ending in the upheaval of Sabrina in the Azores, +already described. The destruction of Caracas, Venezuela, with +many thousands of its inhabitants, and the eruption of La Soufriere +volcano of St. Vincent Island were incidents of this convulsion. +Dr. J. W. Foster tells us that on the night of the disaster at +Caracas the earthquake grew intense at New Madrid, fissures being +opened six hundred feet long by twenty broad, from which water and +sand were flung to the height of forty feet. + +The most destructive of earthquakes in our former history was that +which visited Charleston, South Carolina, in 1886, the injury +caused by it being largely due to the fact that it passed through a +populous city. As it occurred after many of the people had +retired, the confusion and terror due to it were greatly augmented, +people fleeing in panic fear from the tumbling and cracking houses +to seek refuge in the widest streets and open spaces. + +South Carolina had been affected by the wide-spread earthquakes of +1812. These in some cases altered the level of the land, as is +related in Lyell's "Principles of Geology." But the effect then +was much less than in 1886. Several slight tremors occurred in the +early summer of that year, but did not excite much attention. More +distinct shocks were felt on August 27th and 28th, but the climax +was deferred till the evening of August 31st. The atmosphere that +afternoon had been unusually sultry and quiet, the breeze from the +ocean, which generally accompanies the rising tide, was almost +entirely absent, and the setting sun caused a little glow in the +sky. + +"As the hour of 9.50 was reached," we are told, "there was suddenly +heard a rushing, roaring sound, compared by some to a train of cars +at no great distance, by others to a clatter produced by two or +more omnibuses moving at a rapid rate over a paved street, by +others again, to an escape of steam from a boiler. It was followed +immediately by a thumping and beating of the earth beneath the +houses, which rocked and swayed to and fro. Furniture was +violently moved and dashed to the floor; pictures were swung from +the walls, and in some cases turned with their backs to the front, +and every movable thing was thrown into extraordinary convulsions. +The greatest intensity of the shock is considered to have been +during the first half, and it was probably then, during the period +of its greatest sway, that so many chimneys were broken off at the +junction of the roof. The duration of this severe shock is thought +to have been from thirty-five to forty seconds. The impression +produced on many was that it could be subdivided into three +distinct movements, while others were of the opinion that it was +one continuous movement, or succession of waves, with the greatest +intensity, as already stated, during the first half of its +duration." + +Twenty-seven persons were killed outright, and more than that +number died soon after of their hurts or from exposure; many others +were less seriously injured. Among the buildings, the havoc, +though much less disastrous than has been recorded in some other +earthquakes in either hemisphere, was very great. "There was not a +building in the city which had escaped serious injury. The extent +of the damage varied greatly, ranging from total demolition down to +the loss of chimney tops and the dislodgment of more or less +plastering. The number of buildings which were completely +demolished and levelled to the ground was not great; but there were +several hundreds which lost a large portion of their walls. There +were very many also which remained standing, but so badly shattered +that public safety required that they should be pulled down +altogether. There was not, so far as at present is known, a brick +or stone building which was not more or less cracked, and in most +of them the cracks were a permanent disfigurement and a source of +danger and inconvenience." In some places the railway track was +curiously distorted. "It was often displaced laterally, and +sometimes alternately depressed and elevated. Occasionally several +lateral flexures of double curvature and of great amount were +exhibited. Many hundred yards of track had been shoved bodily to +the south eastward." + +The ground was fissured at some places in the city to a depth of +many feet, and numerous "craterlets" were formed, from which sand +was ejected in considerable quantities. These are not uncommon +phenomena, and were due, no doubt, to the squirting of water out of +saturated sandy layers not far below the surface; these being +squeezed between two less pervious beds in the passage of the +earthquake wave. The ejected material in the Charleston earthquake +was ordinary sand, such as might exist in many districts which had +been quite undisturbed by any concussions of the earth. + +Captain Dutton made a careful study of the observations collected +by himself and others concerning this earthquake, and came to the +conclusion that the Charleston wave traveled with unusual speed, +for its mean velocity was about 17,000 feet a second. The focus of +the disturbance was also ascertained. Apparently it was a double +one, the two centres being about thirteen miles apart, and the line +joining them running nearly the same distance to the west of +Charleston. The approximate depth of the principal focus is given +as twelve miles, with a possible error of less than two miles; that +of the minor one as roughly eight miles. + +The Charleston earthquake was felt as a tremor of more or less +force through a wide area, embracing 900,000 square miles, and +affecting nearly the whole country east of the Mississippi. It is +said that the yield of the Pennsylvania natural gas wells +decreased, and that a geyser in the Yellowstone valley burst into +action after four years of rest. The movement of the earth-wave +was in general north and south, deflected to east and west, and the +snake-like fashion in which rails on the railroad were bent +indicated both a vertical and a lateral force. + +This earthquake has been attributed to various causes, but +geological experts think that it was due to a slip in the crust +along the Appalachian Mountain chain. There is a line of weakness +along the eastern slope of this chain, characterized by fissures +and faults, and it was thought that a strain had been gradually +brought to bear upon this through the removal of earth from the +land by rains and rivers and its deposition in thick strata on the +sea-bottom. It is supposed that this variation in weight in time +caused a yielding of the strata and a slip seaward of the great +coastal plain. Professor Mendenhall, however, thinks it was due to +a readjustment of the earth's crust to its gradually sinking +nucleus. + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +The Volcano and the Earthquake, Earth's Demons of Destruction. + + +To most of us, dwellers upon the face of the earth, this +terrestrial sphere is quite a comfortable place of residence. The +forces of Nature everywhere and at all times surround us, forces +capable, if loosened from their bonds, of bringing death and +destruction to man and the work of his hands. But usually they are +mild and beneficent in their action, not agents of destruction and +lords of elemental misrule. The air, without whose presence we +could not survive a minute, is usually a pleasant companion, now +resting about us in soft calm, now passing by in mild breezes. The +alternation of summer and winter is to us generally an agreeable +relief from the monotony of a uniform climate. The variation from +sunlight to cloud, from dry weather to rainfall, is equally viewed +as a pleasant escape from the weariness of too great fixity of +natural conditions. The change from day to night, from hours of +activity to hours of slumber, are other agreeable variations in the +events of our daily life. In short, a great pendulum seems to be +swinging above us, held in Nature's kindly hand, and adapting its +movements to our best good and highest enjoyment. + +But has Nature,--if we are justified in personifying the laws and +forces of the universe,--has mother Nature really our pleasure and +benefit in mind, or does she merely suffer us to enjoy life like so +many summer insects, until she is in the mood to sweep us like +leaves from her path? It must seem the latter to many of the +inhabitants of the earth, especially to the dwellers in certain +ill-conditioned regions. For all the beneficent powers above named +may at a moment's notice change to destructive ones. + + +THE WIND IS A DEMON IN CHAINS + + +The wind, for instance, is a demon in chains. At times it breaks +its fetters and rushes on in mad fury, rending and destroying, and +sweeping such trifles as cities and those who dwell therein to +common ruin. Sunshine and rain are subject to like wild caprices. +The sun may pour down burning rays for weeks and months together, +scorching the fertile fields, drying up the life-giving streams, +bringing famine and misery to lands of plenty and comfort, almost +making the blood to boil in our veins. Its antithesis, the +rainstorm, is at times a still more terrible visitant. From the +dense clouds pour frightful floods, rushing down the lofty hills, +sweeping over fertile plains, overflowing broad river valleys, and, +wherever they go, leaving terror and death in their path. We may +say the same of the alternation of the seasons. Summer, while +looked forward to with joyous anticipation, may bring us only +suffering by its too ardent grasp; and winter, often welcomed with +like pleasurable anticipations, may prove a period of terror from +cold and destitution. + +Such is the make-up of the world in which we live, such the +vagaries of the forces which surround us. But those enumerated are +not the whole. Can we say, with a stamp of the foot upon the solid +earth, "Here at least I have something I can trust; let the winds +blow and the rains descend, let the summer scorch and the winter +chill, the good earth still stands firm beneath me, and of it at +least I am sure?" + +Who says so speaks hastily and heedlessly, for the earth can show +itself as unstable as the air, and our solid footing become as +insecure as the deck of a ship laboring in a storm at sea. The +powers of the atmosphere, great as they are and mighty for +destruction as they may become, are at times surpassed by those +which abide within the earth, deep laid in the so-called +everlasting rocks, slumbering often through generations, but at any +time likely to awaken in wrath, to lift the earth into quaking +billows like those of the sea, or pour forth torrents of liquid +fire that flow in glowing and burning rivers over leagues of ruined +land. Such is the earth with which we have to deal, such the +ruthless powers of nature that spread around us and lurk beneath +us, such the terrific forces which only bide their time to break +forth and sweep too-confident man from the earth's smiling face. + + +THE SUBTERRANEAN POWERS + + +The subterranean powers here spoken of, those we had denominated +earth's demons of destruction, are the volcano and the earthquake, +the great moulding forces of the earth, tearing down to rebuild, +rending to reconstitute, and in this elemental work often bringing +ruin to man's boasted fanes and palaces. + +No one who has ever seen a volcano or "burning mountain" casting +forth steam, huge red-hot stones, smoke, cinders and lava, can +possibly forget the grandeur of the spectacle. At night it is +doubly terrible, when the darkness shows the red-hot lava rolling +in glowing streams down the mountain's side. At times, indeed, the +volcano is quiet, and only a little smoke curls from its top. Even +this may cease, and the once burning summit may be covered over +with trees and grass, like any other hill. But deep down in the +earth the gases and pent-up steam, are ever preparing to force +their way upward through the mountain, and to carry with them +dissolved rocks, and the stones which block their passage. +Sometimes, while all is calm and beautiful on the mountains, +suddenly deep-sounding noises are heard, the ground shakes, and a +vast torrent tears its way through the bowels of the volcano, and +is flung hundreds of feet high in the air, and, falling again to +the earth, destroys every living thing for miles around. + +It is the same with the earthquake as with the volcano. The +surface of the earth is never quite still. Tremors are constantly +passing onward which can be distinguished by delicate instruments, +but only rarely are these of sufficient force to become noticeable, +except by instrumental means. At intervals, however, the power +beneath the surface raises the ground in long, billow-like motions, +before which, when of violent character, no edifice or human +habitation can for a moment stand. The earth is frequently rent +asunder, great fissures and cavities being formed. The course of +rivers is changed and the waters are swallowed up by fissures rent +in the surface, while ruin impends in a thousand forms. The cities +become death pits and the cultivated fields are buried beneath +floods of liquid mud. Fortunately these convulsions, alike of the +earthquake and volcano, are comparative rarities and are confined +to limited regions of the earth's surface. What do we know of +those deep-lying powers, those vast buried forces dwelling in +uneasy isolation beneath our feet? With all our science we are but +a step beyond the ancients, to whom these were the Titans, great +rebel giants whom Jupiter overthrew and bound under the burning +mountains, and whose throes of agony shook the earth in quaking +convulsions. To us the volcanic crater is the mouth from which +comes the fiery breath of demon powers which dwell far down in the +earth's crust. The Titans themselves were dwarfs beside these +mighty agents of destruction whose domain extends for thousands of +miles beneath the earth's surface and which in their convulsions +shake whole continents at once. Such was the case in 1812, when +the eruption of Mont Soufriere on St. Vincent, as told in a later +chapter, formed merely the closing event in a series of earthquakes +which had made themselves felt under thousands of miles of land. + + +ANCIENT AWE OF VOLCANOES + + +In olden times volcanoes were regarded with superstitious awe, and +it would have been considered highly impious to make any +investigation of their actions. We are told by Virgil that Mt. +Etna marks the spot where the gods in their anger buried Enceladus, +one of the rebellious giants. To our myth-making ancestors one of +the volcanoes of the Mediterranean, set on a small island of the +Lipari group, was the workshop of Vulcan, the god of fire, within +whose depths he forged the thunderbolts of the gods. From below +came sounds as of a mighty hammer on a vast anvil. Through the +mountain vent came the black smoke and lurid glow from the fires of +Vulcan's forge. This old myth is in many respects more consonant +with the facts of nature than myths usually are. In agreement with +the theory of its internal forces, the mountain in question was +given the name of Volcano. To-day it is scarcely known at all, but +its name clings to all the fire-breathing mountains of the earth. + +As before said, at the present day we are little in advance of the +ancients in actual knowledge of what is going on so far beneath our +feet. We speak of forces where they spoke of fettered giants, but +can only form theories where they formed myths. Is the earth's +centre made up of liquid fire? Does its rock crust resemble the +thick ice crust on the Arctic Seas, or is the earth, as later +scientists believe, solid to the core? Is it heated so fiercely, +miles below our feet, that at every release of pressure the solid +rock bursts into molten lava? Is the steam from the contact of +underground rivers and deep-lying fires the origin of the terrible +rending powers of the volcano's depths? Truly we can answer none +of these questions with assurance, and can only guess and +conjecture from the few facts open to us what lies concealed far +beneath. + + +RARITY OF ANCIENT ACCOUNTS + + +In the history of earthquakes nothing is more remarkable than the +extreme fewness of those recorded before the beginning of the +Christian era, in comparison with those that have been registered +since that time. It is to be borne in mind, however, that before +the birth of Christ only a small portion of the globe was inhabited +by those likely to make a record of natural events. The vast +apparent increase in the number of earthquakes in recent times is +owing to a greater knowledge of the earth's surface and to the +spread of civilization over lands once inhabited by savages. The +same is to be said of volcanic eruptions, which also have +apparently increased greatly since the beginning of the Christian +era. There may possibly have been a natural increase in these +phenomena, but this is hardly probable, the change being more +likely due to the increase in the number of observers. + +The structure of a volcano is very different from that of other +mountains, really consisting of layers of lava and volcanic ashes, +alternating with each other and all sloping away from the center. +These elevations, in fact, are formed in a different manner from +ordinary mountains. The latter have been uplifted by the influence +of pressure in the interior of the earth, but the volcano is an +immediate result of the explosive force of which we have spoken, +the mountain being gradually built up by the lava and other +materials which it has flung up from below. In this way mountains +of immense height and remarkable regularity have been formed. +Mount Orizabo, near the City of Mexico, for instance, is a +remarkably regular cone, undoubtedly formed in this way, and the +same may be said of Mount Mayon, on the Island of Luzon. + +In many cases the irregularity of the volcano is due to subsequent +action of its forces, which may blow the mountain itself to pieces. +In the case of Krakatoa, in the East Indies, for instance, the +whole mountain was rent into fragments, which were flung as dust +miles high into the air. The main point we wish to indicate is +that volcanoes are never formed by ordinary elevating forces and +that they differ in this way from all other mountains. On the +contrary, they have been piled up like rubbish heaps, resembling +the small mountains of coal dust near the mouths of anthracite +mines. + +It is to the burning heat of the earth's crust and the influence of +pressure, and more largely to the influx of water to the molten +rocks which lie miles below the surface, that these convulsions of +nature are due. Water, on reaching these overheated strata, +explodes into volumes of steam, and if there is no free vent to the +surface, it is apt to rend the very mountain asunder in its efforts +to escape. Such is supposed to have been the case in the eruption +of Krakatoa, and was probably the case also in the recent case of +Mt. Pelee. + + +GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ERUPTIONS + + +If we should seek to give a general description of volcanic +eruptions, it would be in some such words as follows: An eruption +is usually preceded by earthquakes which affect the whole +surrounding country, and associated with which are underground +explosions that seem like the sound of distant artillery. The +mountain quivers with internal convulsions, due to the efforts of +its confined forces to find an opening. The drying up of wells and +disappearance of springs are apt to take place, the water sinking +downward through cracks newly made in the rocks. Finally the +fierce unchained energy rends an opening through the crater and an +eruption begins. It comes usually with a terrible burst that +shakes the mountain to its foundation; explosions following rapidly +and with increasing violence, while steam issues and mounts upward +in a lofty column. The steam and escaping gases in their fierce +outbreaks hurl up into the air great quantities of solid rock torn +from the sides of the opening. The huge blocks, meeting each other +in their rise and fall, are gradually broken and ground into minute +fragments, forming dust or so-called ashes, often of extreme +fineness, and in such quantities as frequently to blot out the +light of the sun. There is another way in which a great deal of +volcanic dust is made; the lava is full of steam, which in its +expansion tears the molten rock into atoms, often converting it +into the finest dust. + +The eruption of Mt. Skaptar, in Iceland, in 1783, sent up such +volumes of dust that the atmosphere was loaded with it for months, +and it was carried to the northern part of Scotland, 600 miles +away, in such quantities as to destroy the crops. During the +eruption of Tomboro, in the East Indies, in 1815, so great was the +quantity of dust thrown up that it caused darkness at midday in +Java 300 miles away and covered the ground to a depth of several +inches. Floating pumice formed a layer on the ocean surface two +and a half feet in thickness, through which vessels had difficulty +in forcing their way. + +The steam which rises in large volumes into the air may become +suddenly condensed with the chill of the upper atmosphere and fall +as rain, torrents of which often follow an eruption. The rain, +falling through the clouds of volcanic dust, brings it to the earth +as liquid mud, which pours in thick streams down the sides of the +mountain. The torrents of flowing mud are sometimes on such a +great scale that large towns, as in the instance of the great city +of Herculaneum, may be completely buried beneath them. Over this +city the mud accumulated to the depth of over 70 feet. In addition +to these phenomena, molten lava often flows from the lip of the +crater, occasionally in vast quantities. In the Icelandic eruption +of 1783 the lava streams were so great in quantity as to fill river +gorges 600 ft. deep and 200 ft. wide, and to extend over an open +plain to a distance of 12 to 15 miles, forming lakes of lava 100 +feet deep. The volcanoes of Hawaii often send forth streams of +lava which cover an area of over 100 square miles to a great depth. + + +GREAT OUTFLOWS OF LAVA + + +In the course of ages lava outflows of this kind have built up in +Hawaii a volcanic mountain estimated to contain enough material to +cover the whole of the United States with a layer of rock 50 feet +deep. These great outflows of lava are not confined to mountains, +but take place now and then from openings in the ground, or from +long cracks in the surface rocks. Occasionally great eruptions +have taken place beneath the ocean's surface, throwing up material +in sufficient quantity to form new islands. + +The formation of mud is not confined to the method given, but great +quantities of this plastic material flow at times from volcanic +craters. In the year 1691 Imbaburu, one of the peaks of the Andes, +sent out floods of mud which contained dead fish in such abundance +that their decay caused a fever in the vicinity. The volcanoes of +Java have often buried large tracts of fertile country under +volcanic mud. + +An observation of volcanoes shows us that they have three well +marked phases of action. The first of these is the state of +permanent eruption, as in case of the volcano of Stromboli in the +Mediterranean. This state is not a dangerous one, since the steam, +escaping continually, acts as a safety valve. The second stage is +one of milder activity with an occasional somewhat violent +eruption; this is apt to be dangerous, though not often very +greatly so. The safety valve is partly out of order. The third +phase is one in which long periods of repose, sometimes lasting for +centuries, are followed by eruptions of intense energy. These are +often of extreme violence and cause widespread destruction. In +this case the safety valve has failed to work and the boiler +bursts. + + +OFTEN REST FOR LONG TERMS OF YEARS + + +Such are the general features of action in the vast powers which +dwell deep beneath the surface, harmless in most parts of the +earth, frightfully perilous in others. Yet even here they often +rest for long terms of years in seeming apathy, until men gather +above their lurking places in multitudes, heedless or ignorant of +the sleeping demons that bide their time below. Their time is sure +to come, after years, perhaps after centuries. Suddenly the solid +earth begins to tremble and quake; roars as of one of the buried +giants of old strike all men with dread; then, with a fierce +convulsion, a mountain is rent in twain and vast torrents of steam, +burning rock, and blinding dust are hurled far upward into the air, +to fall again and bury cities, perhaps, with all their inhabitants +in indiscriminate ruin and death. + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +Theories of Volcanic and Earthquake Action. + + +Though the first formation of a volcano (Italian, vulcano, from +Vulcan, the Roman god of fire) has seldom been witnessed, it would +seem that it is marked by earthquake movements followed by the +opening of a rent or fissure; but with no such tilting up of the +rocks as was once supposed to take place. From this fissure large +volumes of steam issue, accompanied by hydrogen, nitrogen, carbon +dioxide, hydrochloric acid, and sulphur dioxide. The hydrogen, +apparently derived from the dissociation of water at a high +temperature, flashes explosively into union with atmospheric +oxygen, and, having exerted its explosive force, the steam +condenses into cloud, heavy masses of which overhang the volcano, +pouring down copious rains. This naturally disturbs the electrical +condition of the atmosphere, so that thunder and lightning are +frequent accompaniments of an eruption. The hydrochloric acid +probably points to the agency of sea-water. Besides the gases just +mentioned, sulphuretted hydrogen, ammonia and common salt occur; +but mainly as secondary products, formed by the union of the vapors +issuing from the volcano, and commonly found also in the vapors +rising from cooling lava streams or dormant volcanic districts. It +is important to notice that the vapors issue from the volcano +spasmodically, explosions succeeding each other with great rapidity +and noise. + +All substances thrown out by the volcano, whether gaseous, liquid +or solid, are conveniently united under the term ejectamenta +(Latin, things thrown out), and all of them are in an intensely +heated, if not an incandescent state. Most of the gases are +incombustible, but the hydrogen and those containing sulphur burn +with a true flame, perhaps rendered more visible by the presence of +solid particles. Much of the so-called flame, however, in popular +descriptions of eruptions is an error of observation due to the +red-hot solid particles and the reflection of the glowing orifice +on the over-hanging clouds. + + +ENORMOUS FORCE DISPLAYED + + +Solid bodies are thrown into the air with enormous force and to +proportionally great heights, those not projected vertically +falling in consequence at considerable distances from the volcano. +A block weighing 200 tons is said to have been thrown nine miles by +Cotopaxi; masses of rock weighing as much as twenty tons to have +been ejected by Mount Ararat in 1840; and stones to have been +hurled to a distance of thirty-six miles in other cases. The solid +matter thrown out by volcanoes consists of lapilli, scoriae, dust +and bombs. + +Though on the first formation of the volcano, masses of non- +volcanic rock may be torn from the chimney or pipe of the mountain, +only slightly fused externally owing to the bad conducting power of +most rocks, and hurled to a distance; and though at the beginning +of a subsequent eruption the solid plug of rock which has cooled at +the bottom of the crater, or, in fact, any part of the volcano, may +be similarly blown up, the bulk of the solid particles of which the +volcano itself is composed is derived from the lake of lava or +molten rock which seethes at the orifice. Solid pieces rent from +this fused mass and cast up by the explosive force of the steam +with which the lava is saturated are known as lapilli. Cooling +rapidly so as to be glassy in texture externally, these often have +time to become perfectly crystalline within. + +Gases and steam escaping from other similar masses may leave them +hollow, when they are termed bombs, or may pit their surfaces with +irregular bubble-cavities, when they are called scoriae or +scoriaceous. Such masses whirling through the air in a plastic +state often become more or less oblately spheroidal in form; but, +as often, the explosive force of their contained vapors shatters +them into fragments, producing quantities of the finest volcanic +dust or sand. This fine dust darkens the clouds overhanging the +mountain, mixes with the condensed steam to fall as a black mud- +rain, or lava di aqua (Italian, water lava), or is carried up to +enormous heights, and then slowly diffused by upper currents of the +atmosphere. In the eruption of Vesuvius of A.D. 79, the air was +dark as midnight for twelve or fifteen miles round; the city of +Pompeii was buried beneath a deposit of dry scoriae, or ashes and +dust, and Herculaneum beneath a layer of the mud-like lava di aqua, +which on drying sets into a compact rock. Rocks formed from these +fragmentary volcanic materials are known as tuff. + + +VOLCANIC CONES HAVE SIMILAR CURVATURES + + +It is entirely of these cindery fragments heaped up with marvellous +rapidity round the orifice that the volcano itself is first formed. +It may, as in the case of Jorullo in Mexico in 1759, form a cone +several hundred feet high in less than a day. Such a cone may have +a slope as steep as 30 or 40 degrees, its incline in all cases +depending simply on the angle of repose of its materials; the +inclination, that is, at which they stop rolling. The great +volcanoes of the Andes, which are formed mainly of ash, are very +steep. Owing to a general similarity in their materials, volcanic +cones in all parts of the world have very similar curvatures; but +older volcanic mountains, in which lava-streams have broken through +the cone, secondary cones have arisen, or portions have been blown +up, are more irregular in outline and more gradual in inclination. + +In size, volcanoes vary from mere mounds a few yards in diameter, +such as the salses or mud volcanoes near the Caspian, to Etna, +10,800 feet high, with a base 30 miles in diameter; Cotopaxi, in +the Andes, 18,887 feet high; or Mauna Loa, in the Sandwich Isles, +13,700 feet high; with a base 70 miles in diameter, and two +craters, one of which, Kilauea, the largest active crater on our +earth, is seven miles in circuit. Larger extinct craters occur in +Japan; but all our terrestrial volcanic mountains are dwarfed by +those observed on the surface of the moon, which, owing to its +smaller size, has cooled more rapidly than our earth. It is, of +course, the explosive force from below which keeps the crater +clear, as a cup-shaped hollow, truncating the cone; and all stones +falling into it would be only thrown out again. It may at the +close of an eruption cool down so completely that a lake can form +within it, such as Lake Averno, near Naples; or it may long remain +a seething sea of lava, such as Kilauea; or the lava may find one +or more outlets from it, either by welling over its rim, which it +will then generally break down, as in many of the small extinct +volcanoes ("puys") of Auvergne, or more usually by bursting through +the sides of the cone. + + +LAVA VARIES VERY MUCH IN LIQUIDITY + + +It is not generally until the volcano has exhausted its first +explosive force that lava begins to issue. Several streams may +issue in different directions. Their dimensions are sometimes +enormous. Lava varies very much in liquidity and in the rate at +which it flows. This much depends, however, upon the slope it has +to traverse. A lava stream at Vesuvius ran three miles in four +minutes, but took three hours to flow the next three miles, while a +stream from Mauna Loa ran eighteen miles in two hours. Glowing at +first as a white-hot liquid, the lava soon cools at the surface to +red and then to black; cinder-like scoriaceous masses form on its +surface and in front of the slowly-advancing mass; clouds of steam +and other vapor rise from it, and little cones are thrown up from +its surface; but many years may elapse before the mass is cooled +through. Thus, while the surface is glassy, the interior becomes +crystalline. + +As to what are the causes of the great convulsions of nature known +as the volcano and the earthquake we know very little. Various +theories have been advanced, but nothing by any means sure has been +discovered, and considerable difference of opinion exists. In +truth we know so little concerning the conditions existing in the +earth's interior that any views concerning the forces at work there +must necessarily be largely conjectural. + +Sir Robert S. Ball says, in this connection: "Let us take, for +instance, that primary question in terrestrial physics, as to +whether the interior of the earth is liquid or solid. If we were +to judge merely from the temperatures reasonably believed to exist +at a depth of some twenty miles, and if we might overlook the +question of pressure, we should certainly say that the earth's +interior must be in a fluid state. It seems at least certain that +the temperatures to be found at depths of two score miles, and +still more at greater depths, must be so high that the most +refractory solids, whether metals or minerals, would at once yield +if we could subject them to such temperatures in our laboratories. +But none of our laboratory experiments can tell us whether, under +the pressure of thousands of tons on the square inch, the +application of any heat whatever would be adequate to transform +solids into liquids. It may, indeed, be reasonably doubted whether +the terms solid and liquid are applicable, in the sense in which we +understand them, to the materials forming the interior of the +earth. + +"A principle, already well known in the arts, is that many, if not +all, solids may be made to flow like liquids if only adequate +pressure be applied. The making of lead tubes is a well-known +practical illustration of this principle, for these tubes are +formed simply by forcing solid lead by the hydraulic press through +a mould which imparts the desired shape. + +"If then a solid can be made to behave like a liquid, even with +such pressures as are within our control, how are we to suppose +that the solids would behave with such pressures as those to which +they are subjected in the interior of the earth? The fact is that +the terms solid and liquid, at least as we understand them, appear +to have no physical meaning with regard to bodies subjected to +these stupendous pressures, and this must be carefully borne in +mind when we are discussing the nature of the interior of the +earth." + + +THE VOLCANO A SAFETY VALVE + + +Whatever be the state of affairs in the depths of the earth's +crust, we may look upon the volcano as a sort of safety-valve, +opening a passage for the pent-up forces to the surface, and thus +relieving the earth from the terrible effects of the earthquake, +through which these imprisoned powers so often make themselves +felt. Without the volcanic vent there might be no safety for man +on the earth's unquiet face. + +Professor J. C. Russell, of Michigan University, presents the +following views concerning the status and action of volcanoes:-- + +"When reduced to its simplest terms, a volcano may be defined as a +tube, or conduit, in the earth's crust, through which the molten +rock is forced to the surface. The conduit penetrates the cool and +rigid rocks forming the superficial portion of the earth, and +reaches its highly heated interior. + +"The length of volcanic conduits can only be conjectured, but, +judging from the approximately known rate of increase of heat with +depth (on an average one degree Fahrenheit for each sixty feet), +and the temperature at which volcanic rocks melt (from 2,300 to +2,700 degrees Fahrenheit, when not under pressure), they must +seemingly have a depth of at least twenty miles. There are other +factors to be considered, but in general terms it is safe to assume +that the conduits of volcanoes are irregular openings, many miles +in depth, which furnish passageways for molten rock (lava) from the +highly-heated sub-crust portion of the earth to its surface. . . . + + +ERUPTIONS OF QUIET TYPE + + +"During eruptions of the quiet type, the lava comes to the surface +in a highly liquid condition--that is, it is thoroughly fused, and +flows with almost the freedom of water. It spreads widely, even on +a nearly level plain, and may form a comparatively thin sheet +several hundred square miles in area, as has been observed in +Iceland and Hawaii. On the Snake River plains, in Southern Idaho, +there are sheets of once molten rock which were poured out in the +manner just stated, some four hundred square miles in area and not +over seventy-five feet in average thickness. When an eruption of +highly liquid lava occurs in a mountainous region, the molten rock +may cascade down deep slopes and flow through narrow valleys for +fifty miles or more before becoming chilled sufficiently to arrest +its progress. Instances are abundant where quiet eruptions have +occurred in the midst of a plain, and built up 'lava cones,' or low +mounds, with immensely expanded bases. Illustrations are furnished +in Southern Idaho, in which the cones formed are only three hundred +or four hundred feet high, but have a breadth at the base of eight +or ten miles. In the class of eruption illustrated by these +examples, there is an absence of fragmental material, such as +explosive volcanoes hurl into the air, and a person may stand +within a few yards of a rushing stream of molten rock, or examine +closely the opening from which it is being poured out, without +danger or serious inconvenience. + +"The quiet volcanic eruptions are attended by the escape of steam +or gases from the molten rock, but the lava being in a highly +liquid state, the steam and gases dissolved in it escape quietly +and without explosions. If, however, the molten rock is less +completely fluid, or in a viscous condition, the vapors and gases +contained in it find difficulty in escaping, and may be retained +until, becoming concentrated in large volume, they break their way +to the surface, producing violent explosions. Volcanoes in which +the lava extruded is viscous, and the escape of steam and gases is +retarded until the pent-up energy bursts all bounds, are of the +explosive, type. One characteristic example is Vesuvius. + +"When steam escapes from the summit of a volcanic conduit--which, +in plain terms, is a tall vessel filled with intensely hot and more +or less viscous liquid--masses of the liquid rock are blown into +the air, and on falling build up a rim or crater about the place of +discharge. Commonly the lava in the summit portion of a conduit +becomes chilled and perhaps hardened, and when a steam explosion +occurs this crust is shattered and the fragments hurled into the +air and contributed to the building of the walls of the inclosing +crater. + +"The solid rock blown out by volcanoes consists usually of highly +vesicular material which hardened on the surface of the column of +lava within a conduit and was shattered by explosions beneath it. +These fragments vary in size from dust particles up to masses +several feet in diameter, and during violent eruptions are hurled +miles high. The larger fragments commonly fall near their place of +origin, and usually furnish the principal part of the material of +which craters are built, but the gravel-like kernels, lapilli, may +be carried laterally several miles if a wind is blowing, while the +dust is frequently showered down on thousands of square miles of +land and sea. The solid and usually angular fragments manufactured +in this manner vary in temperature, and may still be red hot on +falling. + +"Volcanoes of the explosive type not uncommonly discharge streams +of lava, which may flow many miles. In certain instances these +outwellings of liquid rock occur after severe earthquakes and +violent explosions, and may have all the characteristics of quiet +eruptions. There is thus no fundamental difference between the two +types into which it is convenient to divide volcanoes. + + +MOUNTAINS BLOW THEIR HEADS OFF + + +"In extreme examples of explosive volcanoes, the summit portion of +a crater, perhaps several miles in circumference and several +thousand feet high, is blown away. Such an occurrence is recorded +in the case of the volcano Coseguina, Nicaragua, in 1835. Or, an +entire mountain may disappear, being reduced to lapilli and dust +and blown into the air, as in the case of Krakatoa, in the Straits +of Sunda, in 1883. + +"The essential feature of a volcano, as stated above, is a tube or +conduit, leading from the highly heated sub-crust portion of the +earth to the crater and through which molten rock is forced upward +to the surface. The most marked variations in the process depend +on the quantity of molten rock extruded, and on the freedom of +escape of the steam and gases contained in the lava. + +"The cause of the rise of the molten rock in a volcano is still a +matter for discussion. Certain geologists contend that steam is +the sole motive power; while others consider that the lava is +forced to the surface owing to pressure on the reservoir from which +it comes. The view perhaps most favorably entertained at present, +in reference to the general nature of volcanic eruptions, is that +the rigid outer portion of the earth becomes fractured, owing +principally to movements resulting from the shrinking of the +cooling inner mass, and that the intensely hot material reached by +the fissures, previously solid owing to pressure, becomes liquid +when pressure is relieved, and is forced to the surface. As the +molten material rises it invades the water-charged rocks near the +surface and acquires steam, or the gases resulting from the +decomposition of water, and a new force is added which produces the +most conspicuous and at times the most terrible phenomena +accompanying eruptions." + +The active agency of water is strongly maintained by many +geologists, and certainly gains support from the vast clouds of +steam given off by volcanoes in eruption and the steady and quiet +emission of steam from many in a state of rest. The quantities of +water in the liquid state, to which is due the frequent enormous +outflows of mud, leads to the same conclusion. Many scientists, +indeed, while admitting the agency of water, look upon this as the +aqueous material originally pent up within the rocks. For instance +Professor Shaler, dean of the Lawrence Scientific School, says: + +"Volcanic outbreaks are merely the explosion of steam under high +pressure, steam which is bound in rocks buried underneath the +surface of the earth and there subjected to such tremendous heat +that when the conditions are right its pent-up energy breaks forth +and it shatters its stone prison walls into dust. The process by +which the water becomes buried in this manner is a long one. Some +contend that it leaks down from the surface of the earth through +fissures in the outer crust, but this theory is not generally +accepted. The common belief is that water enters the rocks during +the crystalization period, and that these rocks through the natural +action of rivers and streams become deposited in the bottom of the +ocean. Here they lie for many ages, becoming buried deeper and +deeper under masses of like sediment, which are constantly being +washed down upon them from above. This process is called the +blanketing process. + +"Each additional layer of sediment, while not raising the level of +the sea bottom, buries the first layers just so much the deeper and +adds to their temperature just as does the laying of extra blankets +on a bed. When the first layer has reached a depth of a few +thousand feet the rocks which contain the water of crystalization +are subjected to a terrific heat. This heat generates steam, which +is held in a state of frightful tension in its rocky prison. +Wrinklings in the outer crust of the earth's surface occur, caused +by the constant shrinking of the earth itself and by the +contraction of the outer surface as it settles on the plastic +centers underneath. Fissures are caused by these foldings, and as +these fissures reach down into the earth the pressure is removed +from the rocks and the compressed steam in them, being released, +explodes with tremendous force." + +This view is, very probably, applicable to many cases, and the +exceedingly fine dust which so often rises from volcanoes has, +doubtless, for one of its causes the sudden and explosive +conversion of water into steam in the interior of ejected lava, +thus rending it into innumerable fragments. But that this is the +sole mode of action of water in volcanic eruptions is very +questionable. It certainly does not agree with the immense volumes +at times thrown out, while explosions of such extreme intensity as +that of Krakatoa very strongly lead to the conclusion that a great +mass of water has made its way through newly opened fissures to the +level of molten rock, and exploded into steam with a suddenness +which gave it the rending force of dynamite or the other powerful +chemical explosives. + +As the earthquake is so intimately associated with the volcano the +causes of the latter are in great measure the causes of the former, +and the forces at work frequently produce a more or less violent +quaking of the earth's surface before they succeed in opening a +channel of escape through the mountain's heart. One agency of +great potency, and one whose work never ceases, has doubtless much +to do with earthquake action. In the description of this we cannot +do better than to quote from "The Earth's Beginning" of Sir Robert +S. Ball. + + +CAUSE OF EARTHQUAKES + + +"As to the immediate cause of earthquakes there is no doubt +considerable difference of opinion. But I think it will not be +doubted that an earthquake is one of the consequences, though +perhaps a remote one, of the gradual loss of internal heat from the +earth. As this terrestrial heat is gradually declining, it follows +from the law that we have already so often had occasion to use that +the bulk of the earth must be shrinking. No doubt the diminution +in the earth's diameter due to the loss of heat must be exceedingly +small, even in a long period of time. The cause, however, is +continually in operation, and, accordingly, the crust of the earth +has from time to time to be accommodated to the fact that the whole +globe is lessening. The circumference of our earth at the equator +must be gradually declining; a certain length in that circumference +is lost each year. We may admit that loss to be a quantity far too +small to be measured by any observations as yet obtainable, but, +nevertheless, it is productive of phenomena so important that it +cannot be overlooked. + +"It follows from these considerations that the rocks which form the +earth's crust over the surface of the continents and the islands, +or beneath the bed of the ocean, must have a lessening acreage year +by year. These rocks must therefore submit to compression, either +continuously or from time to time, and the necessary yielding of +the rocks will in general take place in those regions where the +materials of the earth's crust happen to have comparatively small +powers of resistance. The acts of compression will often, and +perhaps generally, not proceed with uniformity, but rather with +small successive shifts, and even though the displacements of the +rocks in these shifts be actually very small, yet the pressures to +which the rocks are subjected are so vast that a very small shift +may correspond to a very great terrestrial disturbance. + +"Suppose, for instance, that there is a slight shift in the rocks +on each side of a crack, or fault, at a depth of ten miles. It +must be remembered that the pressure ten miles down would be about +thirty-five tons to the square inch. Even a slight displacement of +one extensive surface over another, the sides being pressed +together with a force of thirty-five tons on the square inch, would +be an operation necessarily accompanied by violence greatly +exceeding that which we might expect from so small a displacement +if the forces concerned had been of more ordinary magnitude. On +account of this great multiplication of the intensity of the +phenomenon, merely a small rearrangement of the rocks in the crust +of the earth, in pursuance of the necessary work of accommodating +its volume to the perpetual shrinkage, might produce an excessively +violent shock, extending far and wide. The effect of such a shock +would be propagated in the form of waves through the globe, just as +a violent blow given at one end of a bar of iron by a hammer is +propagated through the bar in the form of waves. When the effect +of this internal adjustment reaches the earth's surface it will +sometimes be great enough to be perceptible in the shaking it gives +that surface. The shaking may be so violent that buildings may not +be able to withstand it. Such is the phenomenon of an earthquake. + +"When the earth is shaken by one of those occasional adjustments of +the crust which I have described, the wave that spreads like a +pulsation from the centre of agitation extends all over our globe +and is transmitted right through it. At the surface lying +immediately over the centre of disturbance there will be a violent +shock. In the surrounding country, and often over great distances, +the earthquake may also be powerful enough to produce destructive +effects. The convulsion may also be manifested over a far larger +area of country in a way which makes the shock to be felt, though +the damage wrought may not be appreciable. But beyond a limited +distance from the centre of the agitation the earthquake will +produce no destructive effects upon buildings, and will not even +cause vibrations that would be appreciable to ordinary observation. + + +THE RADIUS OF DISTURBANCE. + + +"In each locality in which earthquakes are chronic it would seem as +if there must be a particularly weak spot in the earth some miles +below the surface. A shrinkage of the earth, in the course of the +incessant adjustment between the interior and the exterior, will +take place by occasional little jumps at this particular centre. +The fact that there is this weak spot at which small adjustments +are possible may provide, as it were, a safety-valve for other +places in the same part of the world. Instead of a general +shrinking, the materials would be sufficiently elastic and flexible +to allow the shrinking for a very large area to be done at this +particular locality. In this way we may explain the fact that +immense tracts on the earth are practically free from earthquakes +of a serious character, while in the less fortunate regions the +earthquakes are more or less perennial. + +"Now, suppose an earthquake takes place in Japan, it originates a +series of vibrations through our globe. We must here distinguish +between the rocks--I might almost say the comparatively pliant +rocks--which form the earth's crust, and those which form the +intensely rigid core of the interior of our globe. The vibrations +which carry the tidings of the earthquake spread through the rocks +on the surface, from the centre of the disturbance, in gradually +enlarging circles. We may liken the spread of these vibrations to +the ripples in a pool of water which diverge from the spot where a +raindrop has fallen. The vibrations transmitted by the rocks on +the surface, or on the floor of the ocean, will carry the message +all over the earth. As these rocks are flexible, at all events by +comparison with the earth's interior, the vibrations will be +correspondingly large, and will travel with vigor over land and +under sea. In due time they reach, say the Isle of Wight, where +they set the pencil of the seismometer at work. But there are +different ways round the earth from Japan to the Isle of Wight, the +most direct route being across Asia and Europe; the other route +across the Pacific, America, and the Atlantic. The vibrations will +travel by both routes, and the former is the shorter of the two." + + +TRANSMISSIONS OF VIBRATIONS + + +Some brief repetition may not here be amiss as to the products of +volcanic action, of which so much has been said in the preceding +pages, especially as many of the terms are to some extent technical +in character. The most abundant of these substances is steam or +water-gas, which, as we have seen, issues in prodigious quantities +during every eruption. But with the steam a great number of other +volatile materials frequently make their appearance. Though we +have named a number of these at the beginning of this chapter, it +will not be out of order to repeat them here. The chief among +these are the acid gases known as hydrochloric acid, sulphurous +acid, sulphuretted hydrogen, carbonic acid, and boracic acid; and +with these acid gases there issue hydrogen, nitrogen ammonia, the +volatile metals arsenic, antimony, and mercury, and some other +substances. These volatile substances react upon one another, and +many new compounds are thus formed. By the action of sulphurous +acid and sulphuretted hydrogen on each other, the sulphur so common +in volcanic districts is separated and deposited. The hydrochloric +acid acts very energetically on the rocks around the vents, uniting +with the iron in them to form the yellow ferric-chloride, which +often coats the rocks round the vent and is usually mistaken by +casual observers for sulphur. + +Some of the substances emitted by volcanic vents, such as hydrogen +and sulphuretted hydrogen, are inflammable, and when they issue at +a high temperature these gases burst into flame the moment that +they come into contact with the air. Hence, when volcanic fissures +are watched at night, faint lambent flames are frequently seen +playing over them, and sometimes these flames are brilliantly +colored, through the presence of small quantities of certain +metallic oxides. Such volcanic flames, however, are scarcely ever +strongly luminous, and the red, glowing light which is observed +over volcanic mountains in eruption is due to quite another cause. +What is usually taken for flame during a volcanic eruption is +simply, as we have before stated, the glowing light of the surface +of a mass of red-hot lava reflected from the cloud of vapor and +dust in the air, much as the lights of a city are reflected from +the water vapor of the atmosphere during a night of fog. + +Besides the volatile substances which issue from volcanic vents, +mingling with the atmosphere or condensing upon their sides, there +are many solid materials ejected, and these may accumulate around +the orifice's till they build up mountains of vast dimensions, like +Etna, Teneriffe, and Chimborazo. Some of these solid materials are +evidently fragments of the rock-masses, through which the volcanic +fissure has been rent; these fragments have been carried upwards by +the force of the steam-blast and scattered over the sides of the +volcano. But the principal portion of the solid materials ejected +from volcanic orifices consists of matter which has been extruded +from sources far beneath the surface, in highly-heated and fluid or +semi-fluid condition. + +It is to these materials that the name of "lavas" is properly +applied. Lavas present a general resemblance to the slags and +clinkers which are formed in our furnaces and brick-kilns, and +consist, like them, of various stony substances which have been +more or less perfectly fused. When we come to study the chemical +composition and the microscopical structure of lavas, however, we +shall find that there are many respects in which they differ +entirely from these artificial products, they consisting chiefly of +felspar, or of this substance in association with augite or +hornblende. In texture they may be stony, glassy, resin-like, +vesicular or cellular and light in weight, as in the case of pumice +or scoria. + + +FLOATING PUMICE + + +The steam and other gases rising through liquid lava are apt to +produce bubbles, yielding a surface froth or foam. This froth +varies greatly in character according to the nature of the material +from which it is formed. In the majority of cases the lavas +consist of a mass of crystals floating in a liquid magma, and the +distension of such a mass by the escape of steam from its midst +gives rise to the formation of the rough cindery-looking material +to which the name of "scoria" is applied. But when the lava +contains no ready-formed crystals, but consists entirely of a +glassy substance in a more or less perfect state of fusion, the +liberation of steam gives rise to the formation of the beautiful +material known as "pumice." Pumice consists of a mass of minute +glass bubbles; these bubbles do not usually, however, retain their +globular form, but are elongated in one direction through the +movement of the mass while it is still in a plastic state. The +quantity of this substance ejected is often enormous. We have seen +to what a vast extent it was thrown out from the crater of +Krakatoa. During the year 1878, masses of floating pumice were +reported as existing in the vicinity of the Solomon Isles, and +covering the surface of the sea to such extent that it took ships +three days to force their way through them. Sometimes this +substance accumulates in such quantities along coasts that it is +difficult to determine the position of the shore within a mile or +two, as we may land and walk about on the great floating raft of +pumice. Recent deep-sea soundings, carried on in the Challenger +and other vessels, have shown that the bottom of the deepest +portion of the ocean, far away from the land, is covered with +volcanic materials which have been carried through the air or have +floated on the surface of the ocean. + +Fragments of scoria or pumice may be thrown hundreds or thousands +of feet into the atmosphere, those that fall into the crater and +are flung up again being gradually reduced in size by friction. +Thus it is related by Mr. Poulett Scrope, who watched the Vesuvian +eruption of 1822, which lasted for nearly a month, that during the +earlier stages of the outburst fragments of enormous size were +thrown out of the crater, but by constant re-ejection these were +gradually reduced in size, till at last only the most impalpable +dust issued from the vent. This dust filled the atmosphere, +producing in the city of Naples "a darkness that might be felt." +So excessively finely divided was it, that it penetrated into all +drawers, boxes, and the most closely fastened receptacles, filling +them completely. The fragmentary materials ejected from volcanoes +are often given the name of cinders or ashes. These, however, are +terms of convenience only, and do not properly describe the +volcanic material. + +Sometimes the passages of steam through a mass of molten glass +produces large quantities of a material resembling spun glass. +Small particles of this glass are carried into the air and leave +behind them thin, glassy filaments like a tail. At the volcano of +Kilauea in Hawaii, this substance, as previously stated, is +abundantly produced, and is known as 'Pele's Hair'--Pele being the +name of the goddess of the mountain. Birds' nests are sometimes +found composed of this beautiful material. In recent years an +artificial substance similar to this Pele's hair has been +extensively manufactured by passing jets of steam through the +molten slag of iron-furnaces; it resembles cotton-wool, but is made +up of fine threads of glass, and is employed for the packing of +boilers and other purposes. + +The lava itself, as left in huge deposits upon the surface, assumes +various forms, some crystalline, others glassy. The latter is +usually found in the condition known as obsidian, ordinarily black +in color, and containing few or no crystals. It is brittle, and +splits into sharp-edged or pointed fragments, which were used by +primitive peoples for arrow-heads, knives and other cutting +implements. The ancient Mexicans used bits of it for shaving +purposes, it having an edge of razor-like sharpness. They also +used it as the cutting part of their weapons of war. + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +The Active Volcanoes of the Earth. + + +It is not by any means an easy task to frame an estimate of the +number of volcanoes in the world. Volcanoes vary greatly in their +dimensions, from vast mountain masses, rising to a height of nearly +25,000 feet above sea-level, to mere molehills. They likewise +exhibit every possible stage of development and decay: while some +are in a state of chronic active eruption, others are reduced to +the condition of solfataras, or vents emitting acid vapors, and +others again have fallen into a more or less complete state of ruin +through the action of denuding forces. + + +NUMBER OF ACTIVE VOLCANOES + + +Even if we confine our attention to the larger volcanoes, which +merit the name of mountains, and such of these as we have reason to +believe to be in a still active condition, our difficulties will be +diminished, but not by any means removed. Volcanoes may sink into +a dormant condition that at times endures for hundreds or even +thousands of years, and then burst forth into a state of renewed +activity; and it is quite impossible, in many cases, to distinguish +between the conditions of dormancy and extinction. + +We shall, however, probably be within the limits of truth in +stating that the number of great habitual volcanic vents upon the +globe which we have reason to believe are still in active +condition, is somewhere between 300 and 350. Most of these are +marked by more or less considerable mountains, composed of the +materials ejected from them. But if we include mountains which +exhibit the external conical form, crater-like hollows, and other +features of volcanoes, yet concerning the activity of which we have +no record or tradition, the number will fall little, if anything, +short of 1,000. + +The mountains composed of volcanic materials, but which have lost +through denudation the external form of volcanoes, are still more +numerous, and the smaller temporary openings which are usually +subordinate to the habitual vents that have been active during the +periods covered by history and tradition, must be numbered by +thousands. There are still feebler manifestations of the volcanic +forces--such as steam-jets, geysers, thermal and mineral waters, +spouting saline and muddy springs, and mud volcanoes--that may be +reckoned by millions. It is not improbable that these less +powerful manifestations of the volcanic forces to a great extent +make up in number what they want in individual energy; and the +relief which they afford to the imprisoned activities within the +earth's crust may be almost equal to that which results from the +occasional outbursts at the great habitual volcanic vents. + +In taking a general survey of the volcanic phenomena of the globe, +no facts come out more strikingly than that of the very unequal +distribution, both of the great volcanoes, and of the minor +exhibitions of subterranean energy. + +Thus, on the whole of the continent of Europe, there is but one +habitual volcanic vent--that of Vesuvius--and this is situated upon +the shores of the Mediterranean. In the islands of that sea, +however there are no less than six volcanoes: namely, Stromboli, +and Vulcano, in the Lipari Islands; Etna, in Sicily; Graham's Isle, +a submarine volcano, off the Sicilian coast; and Santorin and +Nisyros, in the Aegean Sea. + +The African continent is at present known to contain about ten +active volcanoes--four on the west coast, and six on the east +coast, while about ten other active volcanoes occur on islands +close to the African coasts. On the continent of Asia, more than +twenty active volcanoes are known or believed to exist, but no less +than twelve of these are situated in the peninsula of Kamchatka. +No volcanoes are known to exist in the Australian continent. + +The American continent contains a greater number of volcanoes than +the continents of the Old World. There are twenty in North +America, twenty-five in Central America, and thirty-seven in South +America. Thus, taken altogether, there are about one hundred and +seventeen volcanoes situated on the great continental lands of the +globe, while nearly twice as many occur upon the islands scattered +over the various oceans. + + +ASIATIC INLAND VOLCANOES + + +Upon examining further into the distribution of the continental +volcanoes, another very interesting fact presents itself. The +volcanoes are in almost every instance situated either close to the +coasts of the continent, or at no great distance from them. There +are, indeed, only two exceptions to this rule. In the great and +almost wholly unexplored table-land lying between Siberia and Tibet +four volcanoes are said to exist, and in the Chinese province of +Manchuria several others. More reliable information is, however, +needed concerning these volcanoes. + +It is a remarkable circumstance that all the oceanic islands which +are not coral-reefs are composed of volcanic rocks; and many of +these oceanic islands, as well as others lying near the shores of +the continents, contain active volcanoes. + +Through the midst of the Atlantic Ocean runs a ridge, which, by the +soundings of the various exploring vessels sent out in recent +years, has been shown to divide the ocean longitudinally into two +basins. Upon this great ridge, and the spurs proceeding from it, +rise numerous mountainous masses, which constitute the well-known +Atlantic islands and groups of islands. All of these are of +volcanic origin, and among them are numerous active volcanoes. The +Island of Jan Mayen contains an active volcano, and Iceland +contains thirteen, and not improbably more; the Azores have six +active volcanoes, the Canaries three; while about eight volcanoes +lie off the west coast of Africa. In the West Indies there are six +active volcanoes; and three submarine volcanoes have been recorded +within the limits of the Atlantic Ocean. Altogether, no less than +forty active volcanoes are situated upon the great submarine ridges +which traverse the Atlantic longitudinally. + +But along the same line the number of extinct volcanoes is far +greater, and there are not wanting proofs that the volcanoes which +are still active are approaching the condition of extinction. + + +VOLCANOES OF THE PACIFIC + + +If the great medial chain of the Atlantic presents us with an +example of a chain of volcanic mountains verging on extinction, we +have in the line of islands separating the Pacific and Indian +Oceans an example of a similar range of volcanic vents which are in +a condition of the greatest activity. In the peninsula of +Kamchatka there are twelve active volcanoes, in the Aleutian +Islands thirty-one, and in the peninsula of Alaska three. The +chain of the Kuriles contains at least ten active volcanoes; the +Japanese Islands and the islands to the south of Japan twenty-five. +The great group of islands lying to the south-east of the Asiatic +continent is at the present time the grandest focus of volcanic +activity upon the globe. No less than fifty active volcanoes occur +here. + +Farther south, the same chain is probably continued by the four +active volcanoes of New Guinea, one or more submarine volcanoes, +and several vents in New Britain, the Solomon Isles, and the New +Hebrides, the three active volcanoes of New Zealand, and possibly +by Mount Erebus and Mount Terror in the Antarctic region. +Altogether, no less than 150 active volcanoes exist in the chain of +islands which stretch from Behring's Straits down to the Antarctic +circle; and if we include the volcanoes on Indian and Pacific +Islands which appear to be situated on lines branching from this +particular band, we shall not be wrong in the assertion that this +great system of volcanic mountains includes at least one half of +the habitually active vents of the globe. In addition to the +active vents, there are here several hundred very perfect volcanic +cones, many of which appear to have recently become extinct, though +some of them may be merely dormant, biding their time. + +A third series of volcanoes starts from the neighborhood of +Behring's Straits, and stretches along the whole western coast of +the American continent. This is much less continuous, but +nevertheless very important, and contains, with its branches, +nearly a hundred active volcanoes. On the north this great band is +almost united with the one we have already described by the chain +of the Aleutian and Alaska volcanoes. In British Columbia about +the parallel of 60 degrees N. there exist a number of volcanic +mountains, one of which, Mount St. Elias, is believed to be 18,000 +feet in height. Farther south, in the territory of the United +States, a number of grand volcanic mountains exist, some of which +are probably still active, for geysers and other manifestations of +volcanic activity abound. From the southern extremity of the +peninsula of California an almost continuous chain of volcanoes +stretches through Mexico and Guatemala, and from this part of the +volcanic band a branch is given off which passes through the West +Indies, and contains the volcanoes which have so recently given +evidence of their vital activity. + +In South America the line is continued by the active volcanoes of +Ecuador, Bolivia and Chile, but at many intermediate points in the +chain of the Andes extinct volcanoes occur, which to a great extent +fill up the gaps in the series. A small offshoot to the westward +passes through the Galapagos Islands. The great band of volcanoes +which stretches through the American continent is second only in +importance, and in the activity of its vents, to the band which +divides the Pacific from the Indian Ocean. + +The third volcanic band of the globe is that, already spoken of, +which traverses the Atlantic Ocean from north to south. This +series of volcanic mountains is much more broken and interrupted +than the other two, and a greater proportion of its vents are +extinct. It attained its condition of maximum activity during the +distant period of the Miocene, and now appears to be passing into a +state of gradual extinction. + +Beginning in the north with the volcanic rocks of Greenland and +Bear Island, we pass southwards, by way of Jan Mayen, Iceland and +the Faroe Islands, to the Hebrides and the north of Ireland. +Thence, by way of the Azores, the Canaries and the Cape de Verde +Islands, with some active vents, we pass to the ruined volcanoes of +St. Paul, Fernando de Noronha, Ascension, St. Helena, Trinidad and +Tristan da Cunha. From this great Atlantic band two branches +proceed to the eastward, one through Central Europe, where all the +vents are now extinct, and the other through the Mediterranean to +Asia Minor, the great majority of the volcanoes along the latter +line being now extinct, though a few are still active. The +volcanoes on the eastern coast of Africa may be regarded as +situated on another branch from this Atlantic volcanic band. The +number of active volcanoes on this Atlantic band and its branches, +exclusive of those in the West Indies, does not exceed fifty. + + +THIAN SHAN AND HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES + + +From what has been said, it will be seen that the volcanoes of the +globe not only usually assume a linear arrangement, but nearly the +whole of them can be shown to be thrown up along three well-marked +bands and the branches proceeding from them. The first and most +important of these bands is nearly 10,000 miles in length, and with +its branches contains more than 150 active volcanoes; the second is +8,000 miles in length, and includes about 100 active volcanoes; the +third is much more broken and interrupted, extends to a length of +nearly 1,000 miles, and contains about 50 active vents. The +volcanoes of the eastern coast of Africa, with Mauritius, Bourbon, +Rodriguez, and the vents along the line of the Red Sea, may be +regarded as forming a fourth and subordinate band. + +Thus we see that the surface of the globe is covered by a network +of volcanic bands, all of which traverse it in sinuous lines with a +general north-and-south direction, giving off branches which often +run for hundreds of miles, and sometimes appear to form a +connection between the great bands. + +To this rule of the linear arrangement of the volcanic vents of the +globe, and their accumulation along certain well-marked bands, +there are two very striking exceptions, which we must now proceed +to notice. + +In the very centre of the continent formed by Europe and Asia, the +largest unbroken land-mass of the globe, there rises from the great +central plateau the remarkable volcanoes of the Thian Shan Range. +The existence of these volcanoes, of which only obscure traditional +accounts had reached Europe before the year 1858, appears to be +completely established by the researches of recent Russian and +Swedish travelers. Three volcanic vents appear to exist in this +region, and other volcanic phenomena have been stated to occur in +the great plateau of Central Asia, but the existence of the latter +appears to rest on very doubtful evidence. The only accounts which +we have of the eruptions of these Thian Shan volcanoes are +contained in Chinese histories and treatises on geography. + +The second exceptionally situated volcanic group is that of the +Hawaiian Islands. While the Thian Shan volcanoes rise in the +centre of the largest unbroken land-mass, and stand on the edge of +the loftiest and greatest plateau in the world, the volcanoes of +the Hawaiian Islands rise in the northern centre of the largest +ocean and from almost the greatest depths in that ocean. All round +the Hawaiian Islands the sea has a depth of from 2,000 to 3,000 +fathoms, and the island-group culminates in several volcanic cones, +which rise to the height of nearly 14,000 feet above the sea-level. +The volcanoes of the Hawaiian Islands are unsurpassed in height and +bulk by those of any other part of the globe. + +With the exception of the two isolated groups of the Thian Shan and +the Hawaiian Islands, nearly all the active volcanoes of the globe +are situated near the limits which separate the great land-and- +water-masses of the globe--that is to say, they occur either on the +parts of continents not far removed from their coast-lines, or on +islands in the ocean not very far distant from the shores. The +fact of the general proximity of volcanoes to the sea is one which +has frequently been pointed out by geographers, and may now be +regarded as being thoroughly established. + + +VOLCANOES PARALLEL TO MOUNTAIN CHAINS + + +Many of the grandest mountain-chains have bands of volcanoes lying +parallel to them. This is strikingly exhibited by the great +mountain-masses which lie on the western side of the American +continent. The Rocky Mountains and the Andes consist of folded and +crumpled masses of altered strata which, by the action of denuding +forces, have been carved into series of ridges and summits. At +many points, however, along the sides of these great chains we find +that fissures have been opened and lines of volcanoes formed, from +which enormous quantities of lava have flowed and covered great +tracts of country. + +This is especially marked in the Snake River plain of Idaho, in the +western United States. In this, and the adjoining regions of +Oregon and Washington, an enormous tract of country has been +overflowed by lava in a late geological period, the surface covered +being estimated to have a larger area than France and Great Britain +combined. The Snake River cuts through it in a series of +picturesque gorges and rapids, enabling us to estimate its +thickness, which is considered to average 4000 feet. Looked at +from any point on its surface, one of these lava-plains appears as +a vast level surface, like that of a lake bottom. This uniformity +has been produced either by the lava rolling over a plain or lake +bottom, or by the complete effacement of an original, undulating +contour of the ground under hundreds or thousands of feet of lava +in successive sheets. The lava, rolling up to the base of the +mountains, has followed the sinuosities of their margin, as the +waters of a lake follow its promontories and bays. Similar +conditions exist along the Sierra Nevada range of California, and +to some extent placer mining has gone on under immense beds of +lava, by a process of tunneling beneath the volcanic rock. + +In some localities the volcanoes are of such height and dimensions +as to overlook and dwarf the mountain-ranges by the side of which +they lie. Some of the volcanoes lying parallel to the great +American axis appear to be quite extinct, while others are in full +activity. In the Eastern continent we find still more striking +examples of parallelism between great mountain-chains and the lands +along which volcanic activity is exhibited--volcanoes, active or +extinct, following the line of the great east and west chains which +extend through southern Europe and Asia. There are some other +volcanic bands which exhibit a similar parallelism with mountain +chains; but, on the other hand, there are volcanoes between which +and the nearest mountain-axis no such connection can be traced. + + +AREAS OF UPHEAVAL AND SUBSIDENCE + + +There is one other fact concerning the mode of distribution of +volcanoes upon the surface of the globe, to which we must allude. +By a study of the evidences presented by coral-reefs, raised +beaches, submerged forests, and other phenomena of a similar kind, +it can be shown that certain wide areas of the land and of the +ocean-floor are at the present time in a state of subsidence, while +other equally large areas are being upheaved. And the observations +of the geologist prove that similar upward and downward movements +of portions of the earth's crust have been going on through all +geological times. + +Now, as Mr. Darwin has so well shown in his work on "Coral Reefs," +if we trace upon a map the areas of the earth's surface which are +undergoing upheaval and subsidence respectively, we shall find that +nearly all the active volcanoes of the globe are situated upon +rising areas and that volcanic phenomena are conspicuously absent +from those parts of the earth's crust which can be proved at the +present day to be undergoing depression. + +The remarkable linear arrangement of volcanic vents has a +significance that is well worthy of fuller consideration. There +are facts known which point to the cause of this state of affairs. +It is not uncommon for small cones of scoriae to be seen following +lines on the flanks or at the base of a great volcanic mountain. +These are undoubtedly lines of fissure, caused by the subterranean +forces. In fact, such fissures have been seen opening on the sides +of Mount Etna, in whose bottom could be seen the glowing lava. +Along these fissures, in a few days, scoriae cones appeared; on one +occasion no less than thirty-six in number. + +It is believed by geologists that the linear systems of volcanoes +are ranged along similar lines of fissure in the earth's crust-- +enormous breaks, extending for thousands of miles, and the result +of internal energies acting through vast periods of time. Along +these immense fissures in the earth's rock-crust there appear, in +place of small scoriae cones, great volcanoes, built up through the +ages by a series of powerful eruptions, and only ceasing to spout +fire themselves when the portion of the great crack upon which they +lie is closed. The greatest of these fissures is that along the +vast sinuous band of volcanoes extending from near the Arctic +circle at Behring's Straits to the Antarctic circle at South +Victoria Land, not far from half round the earth. It doubtless +marks the line of mighty forces which have been active for millions +of years. + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +The Famous Vesuvius and the Destruction of Pompeii. + + +The famous volcano of southern Italy named Vesuvius, which is now +so constantly in eruption, was described by the ancients as a cone- +shaped mountain with a flat top, on which was a deep circular +valley filled with vines and grass, and surrounded by high +precipices. A large population lived on the sides of the mountain, +which was covered with beautiful woods, and there were fine +flourishing cities at its foot. So little was the terrible nature +of the valley on the top understood, that in A. D. 72, Spartacus, a +rebellious Roman gladiator, encamped there with some thousands of +fighting men, and the Roman soldiers were let down the precipices +in order to surprise and capture them. + +There had been earthquakes around the mountain, and one of the +cities had been nearly destroyed; but no one was prepared for what +occurred seven years after the defeat of Spartacus. Suddenly, in +the year 79 A. D., a terrific rush of smoke, steam, and fire +belched from the mountain's summit; one side of the valley in which +Spartacus had encamped was blown off, and its rocks, with vast +quantities of ashes, burning stones, and sand, were ejected far +into the sky. They then spread out like a vast pall, and fell far +and wide. For eight days and nights this went on, and the enormous +quantity of steam sent up, together with the deluge of rain that +fell, produced torrents on the mountain-side, which, carrying +onward the fallen ashes, overwhelmed everything in their way. +Sulphurous vapors filled the air and violent tremblings of the +earth were constant. + +A city six miles off was speedily rendered uninhabitable, and was +destroyed by the falling stones; but two others--Herculaneum and +Pompeii--which already had suffered from the down-pour of ashes, +were gradually filled with a flood of water, sand, and ashes, which +came down the side of the volcano, and covering them entirely. + + +BURIED CITIES EXCAVATED. + + +The difference in ease of excavation is due to the following +circumstance. Herculaneum being several miles nearer the crater, +was buried in a far more consistent substance, seemingly composed +of volcanic ashes cemented by mud; Pompeii, on the contrary, was +buried only in ashes and loose stones. The casts of statues found +in Herculaneum show the plastic character of the material that fell +there, which time has hardened to rock-like consistency. + +These statues represented Hercules and Cleopatra, and the theatre +proved to be that of the long-lost city of Herculaneum. The site +of Pompeii was not discovered until forty years afterward, but work +there proved far easier than at Herculaneum, and more progress was +made in bringing it back to the light of day. + +The less solid covering of Pompeii has greatly facilitated the work +of excavation, and a great part of the city has been laid bare. +Many of its public buildings and private residences are now +visible, and some whole streets have been cleared, while a +multitude of interesting relics have been found. Among those are +casts of many of the inhabitants, obtained by pouring liquid +plaster into the ash moulds that remained of them. We see them to- +day in the attitude and with the expression of agony and horror +with which death met them more than eighteen centuries ago. + +In succeeding eruptions much lava was poured out; and in A. D. 472, +ashes were cast over a great part of Europe, so that much fear was +caused at Constantinople. The buried cities were more and more +covered up, and it was not until about A. D. 1700 that, as above +stated, the city of Herculaneum was discovered, the peasants of the +vicinity being in the habit of extracting marble from its ruins. +They had also, in the course of years, found many statues. In +consequence, an excavation was ordered by Charles III, the earliest +result being the discovery of the theatre, with the statues above +named. The work of excavation, however, has not progressed far in +this city, on account of its extreme difficulty, though various +excellent specimens of art-work have been discovered, including the +finest examples of mural painting extant from antiquity. The +library was also discovered, 1803 papyri being found. Though these +had been charred to cinder, and were very difficult to unroll and +decipher, over 300 of them have been read. + + +PLINY'S CELEBRATED DESCRIPTION + + +Pliny the Younger, to whom we are indebted for the only +contemporary account of the great eruption under consideration, was +at the time of its occurrence resident with his mother at Misenum, +where the Roman fleet lay, under the command of his uncle, the +great author of the "Historia Naturalis". His account, contained +in two letters to Tacitus (lib. vi. 16, 20), is not so much a +narrative of the eruption, as a record of his uncle's singular +death, yet it is of great interest as yielding the impressions of +an observer. The translation which follows is adopted from the +very free version of Melmoth, except in one or two places, where it +differs much from the ordinary text. The letters are given entire, +though some parts are rather specimens of style than good examples +of description. + +"Your request that I should send an account of my uncle's death, in +order to transmit a more exact relation of it to posterity, +deserves my acknowledgments; for if this accident shall be +celebrated by your pen, the glory of it, I am assured, will be +rendered forever illustrious. And, notwithstanding he perished by +a misfortune which, as it involved at the same time a most +beautiful country in ruins, and destroyed so many populous cities, +seems to promise him an everlasting remembrance; notwithstanding he +has himself composed many and lasting works; yet I am persuaded the +mention of him in your immortal works will greatly contribute to +eternize his name. Happy I esteem those to be, whom Providence has +distinguished with the abilities either of doing such actions as +are worthy of being related, or of relating them in a manner worthy +of being read; but doubly happy are they who are blessed with both +these talents; in the number of which my uncle, as his own writings +and your history will prove, may justly be ranked. It is with +extreme willingness, therefore, that I execute your commands; and +should, indeed, have claimed the task if you had not enjoined it. + +"He was at that time with the fleet under his command at Misenum. +On the 24th of August, about one in the afternoon, my mother +desired him to observe a cloud which appeared of a very unusual +size and shape. He had just returned from taking the benefit of +the sun, and, after bathing himself in cold water, and taking a +slight repast, had retired to his study. He immediately arose, and +went out upon an eminence, from whence he might more distinctly +view this very uncommon appearance. It was not at that distance +discernible from what mountain the cloud issued, but it was found +afterward to ascend from Mount Vesuvius. I cannot give a more +exact description of its figure than by comparing it to that of a +pine tree, for it shot up to a great height in the form of a trunk, +which extended itself at the top into a sort of branches; +occasioned, I imagine, either by a sudden gust of air that impelled +it, the force of which decreased as it advanced upwards, or the +cloud itself being pressed back again by its own weight, and +expanding in this manner: it appeared sometimes bright, and +sometimes dark and spotted, as it was more or less impregnated with +earth and cinders. + +"This extraordinary phenomenon excited my uncle's philosophical +curiosity to take a nearer view of it. He ordered a light vessel +to be got ready, and gave me the liberty, if I thought proper, to +attend him. I rather chose to continue my studies, for, as it +happened, he had given me an employment of that kind. As he was +passing out of the house he received dispatches: the marines at +Retina, terrified at the imminent peril (for the place lay beneath +the mountain, and there was no retreat but by ships), entreated his +aid in this extremity. He accordingly changed his first design, +and what he began with a philosophical he pursued with an heroical +turn of mind. + + +THE VOYAGE TO STABIAE + + +"He ordered the galleys to put to sea, and went himself on board +with an intention of assisting not only Retina but many other +places, for the population is thick on that beautiful coast. When +hastening to the place from whence others fled with the utmost +terror, he steered a direct course to the point of danger, and with +so much calmness and presence of mind, as to be able to make and +dictate his observations upon the motion and figure of that +dreadful scene. He was now so nigh the mountain that the cinders, +which grew thicker and hotter the nearer he approached, fell into +the ships, together with pumice-stones, and black pieces of burning +rock; they were in danger of not only being left aground by the +sudden retreat of the sea, but also from the vast fragments which +rolled down from the mountain, and obstructed all the shore. + +"Here he stopped to consider whether he should return back again; +to which the pilot advised him. 'Fortune,' said he, 'favors the +brave; carry me to Pomponianus.' Pomponianus was then at Stabiae, +separated by a gulf, which the sea, after several insensible +windings, forms upon the shore. He (Pomponianus) had already sent +his baggage on board; for though he was not at that time in actual +danger, yet being within view of it, and indeed extremely near, if +it should in the least increase, he was determined to put to sea as +soon as the wind should change. It was favorable, however, for +carrying my uncle to Pomponianus, whom he found in the greatest +consternation. He embraced him with tenderness, encouraging and +exhorting him to keep up his spirits; and the more to dissipate his +fears he ordered, with an air of unconcern, the baths to be got +ready; when, after having bathed, he sat down to supper with great +cheerfulness, or at least (what is equally heroic) with all the +appearance of it. + +"In the meantime, the eruption from Mount Vesuvius flamed out in +several places with much violence, which the darkness of the night +contributed to render still more visible and dreadful. But my +uncle, in order to soothe the apprehensions of his friend, assured +him it was only the burning of the villages, which the country +people had abandoned to the flames; after this he retired to rest, +and it was most certain he was so little discomposed as to fall +into a deep sleep; for, being pretty fat, and breathing hard, those +who attended without actually heard him snore. The court which led +to his apartment being now almost filled with stones and ashes, if +he had continued there any longer it would have been impossible for +him to have made his way out; it was thought proper, therefore, to +awaken him. He got up and went to Pomponianus and the rest of his +company, who were not unconcerned enough to think of going to bed. +They consulted together whether it would be most prudent to trust +to the houses, which now shook from side to side with frequent and +violent concussions; or to fly to the open fields, where the +calcined stone and cinders, though light indeed, yet fell in large +showers and threatened destruction. In this distress they resolved +for the fields as the less dangerous situation of the two--a +resolution which, while the rest of the company were hurried into +it by their fears, my uncle embraced upon cool and deliberate +consideration. + + +DEATH OF PLINY THE ELDER + + +"They went out, then, having pillows tied upon their heads with +napkins; and this was their whole defence against the storm of +stones that fell around them. It was now day everywhere else, but +there a deeper darkness prevailed than in the most obscure night; +which, however, was in some degree dissipated by torches and other +lights of various kinds. They thought proper to go down further +upon the shore, to observe if they might safely put out to sea; but +they found that the waves still ran extremely high and boisterous. +There my uncle, having drunk a draught or two of cold water, threw +himself down upon a cloth which was spread for him, when +immediately the flames, and a strong smell of sulphur which was the +forerunner of them, dispersed the rest of the company, and obliged +him to rise. He raised himself up with the assistance of two of +his servants, and instantly fell down dead, suffocated, as I +conjecture, by some gross and noxious vapor, having always had weak +lungs, and being frequently subject to a difficulty of breathing. + +"As soon as it was light again, which was not till the third day +after this melancholy accident, his body was found entire, and +without any marks of violence upon it, exactly in the same posture +as that in which he fell, and looking more like a man asleep than +dead. During all this time my mother and I were at Misenum. But +this has no connection with your history, as your inquiry went no +farther than concerning my uncle's death; with that, therefore, I +will put an end to my letter. Suffer me only to add, that I have +faithfully related to you what I was either an eye-witness of +myself, or received immediately after the accident happened, and +before there was any time to vary the truth. You will choose out +of this narrative such circumstances as shall be most suitable to +your purpose; for there is a great difference between what is +proper for a letter and a history: between writing to a friend and +writing to the public. Farewell." + +In this account, which was drawn up some years after the event, +from the recollections of a student eighteen years old, we +recognize the continual earthquakes; the agitated sea with its +uplifted bed; the flames and vapors of an ordinary eruption, +probably attended by lava as well as ashes. But it seems likely +that the author's memory, or rather the information communicated to +him regarding the closing scene of Pliny's life, was defective. +Flames and sulphurous vapors could hardly be actually present at +Stabiae, ten miles from the centre of the eruption. + +That lava flowed at all from Vesuvius on this occasion has been +usually denied; chiefly because at Pompeii and Herculaneum the +causes of destruction were different--ashes overwhelmed the former, +mud concreted over the latter. We observe, indeed, phenomena on +the shore near Torre del Greco which seem to require the belief +that currents of lava had been solidified there at some period +before the construction of certain walls and floors, and other +works of Roman date. In the Oxford Museum, among the specimens of +lava to which the dates are assigned, is one referred to A. D. 79, +but there is no mode of proving it to have belonged to the eruption +of that date. + + +PLINY'S SECOND LETTER + + +A second letter from Pliny to Tacitus (Epist. 20) was required to +satisfy the curiosity of that historian; especially as regards the +events which happened under the eyes of his friend. Here it is +according to Melmoth: + +"The letter which, in compliance with your request, I wrote to you +concerning the death of my uncle, has raised, it seems, your +curiosity to know what terrors and danger attended me while I +continued at Misenum: for there, I think, the account in my former +letter broke off. + +'Though my shocked soul recoils, my tongue shall tell.' + +"My uncle having left us, I pursued the studies which prevented my +going with him till it was time to bathe. After which I went to +supper, and from thence to bed, where my sleep was greatly broken +and disturbed. There had been, for many days before, some shocks +of an earthquake, which the less surprised us as they are extremely +frequent in Campania; but they were so particularly violent that +night, that they not only shook everything about us, but seemed, +indeed, to threaten total destruction. My mother flew to my +chamber, where she found me rising in order to awaken her. We went +out into a small court belonging to the house, which separated the +sea from the buildings. As I was at that time but eighteen years +of age, I know not whether I should call my behavior, in this +dangerous juncture, courage or rashness; but I took up Livy, and +amused myself with turning over that author, and even making +extracts from him, as if all about me had been in full security. +While we were in this posture, a friend of my uncle's, who was just +come from Spain to pay him a visit, joined us; and observing me +sitting with my mother with a book in my hand, greatly condemned +her calmness at the same time that he reproved me for my careless +security. Nevertheless, I still went on with my author. + +"Though it was now morning, the light was exceedingly faint and +languid; the buildings all around us tottered; and, though we stood +upon open ground, yet as the place was narrow and confined, there +was no remaining there without certain and great danger: we +therefore resolved to quit the town. The people followed us in the +utmost consternation, and, as to a mind distracted with terror +every suggestion seems more prudent than its own, pressed in great +crowds about us in our way out. + +"Being got to a convenient distance from the houses, we stood +still, in the midst of a most dangerous and dreadful scene. The +chariots which we had ordered to be drawn out were so agitated +backwards and forwards, though upon the most level ground, that we +could not keep them steady, even by supporting them with large +stones. The sea seemed to roll back upon itself, and to be driven +from its banks by the convulsive motion of the earth; it is certain +at least that the shore was considerably enlarged, and many sea +animals were left upon it. On the other side a black and dreadful +cloud, bursting with an igneous serpentine vapor, darted out a long +train of fire, resembling flashes of lightning, but much larger. + + +FEAR VERSUS COMPOSURE + + +"Upon this the Spanish friend whom I have mentioned, addressed +himself to my mother and me with great warmth and earnestness; 'If +your brother and your uncle,' said he, 'is safe, he certainly +wishes you to be so too; but if he has perished, it was his desire, +no doubt, that you might both survive him: why therefore do you +delay your escape a moment?' We could never think of our own +safety, we said, while we were uncertain of his. Hereupon our +friend left us, and withdrew with the utmost precipitation. Soon +afterward, the cloud seemed to descend, and cover the whole ocean; +as it certainly did the island of Capreae, and the promontory of +Misenum. My mother strongly conjured me to make my escape at any +rate, which, as I was young, I might easily do; as for herself, she +said, her age and corpulency rendered all attempts of that sort +impossible. However, she would willingly meet death, if she could +have the satisfaction of seeing that she was not the occasion of +mine. But I absolutely refused to leave her, and taking her by the +hand, I led her on; she complied with great reluctance, and not +without many reproaches to herself for retarding my flight. + +"The ashes now began to fall upon us, though in no great quantity. +I turned my head and observed behind us a thick smoke, which came +rolling after us like a torrent. I proposed, while we yet had any +light, to turn out of the high road lest she should be pressed to +death in the dark by the crowd that followed us. We had scarce +stepped out of the path when darkness overspread us, not like that +of a cloudy night, or when there is no moon, but of a room when it +is all shut up and all the lights are extinct. Nothing then was to +be heard but the shrieks of women, the screams of children and the +cries of men; some calling for their children, others for their +parents, others for their husbands, and only distinguishing each +other by their voices; one lamenting his own fate, another that of +his family; some wishing to die from the very fear of dying; some +lifting their hands to the gods; but the greater part imagining +that the last and eternal night was come, which was to destroy the +gods and the world together. Among them were some who augmented +the real terrors by imaginary ones, and made the frighted multitude +believe that Misenum was actually in flames. + +"At length a glimmering light appeared, which we imagined to be +rather the forerunner of an approaching burst of flames, as in +truth it was, than the return of day. However, the fire fell at +distance from us; then again we were immersed in thick darkness, +and a heavy shower of ashes rained upon us, which we were obliged +every now and then to shake off, otherwise we should have been +crushed and buried in the heap. + +"I might boast that, during all this scene of horror, not a sigh or +expression of fear escaped me, had not my support been founded in +that miserable, though strong, consolation that all mankind were +involved in the same calamity, and that I imagined I was perishing +with the world itself! At last this dreadful darkness was +dissipated by degrees, like a cloud of smoke; the real day +returned, and soon the sun appeared, though very faintly, and as +when an eclipse is coming on. Every object that presented itself +to our eyes (which were extremely weakened) seemed changed, being +covered over with white ashes, as with a deep snow. We returned to +Misenum, where we refreshed ourselves as well as we could, and +passed an anxious night between hope and fear, for the earthquake +still continued, while several greatly excited people ran up and +down, heightening their own and their friends' calamities by +terrible predictions. However, my mother and I, notwithstanding +the danger we had passed and that which still threatened us, had no +thoughts of leaving the place till we should receive some account +from my uncle. + +"And now you will read this narrative without any view of inserting +it in your history, of which it is by no means worthy; and, indeed, +you must impute it to your own request if it shall not even deserve +the trouble of a letter. Farewell!" + + +DION CASSIUS ON THE ERUPTION + + +The story told by Pliny is the only one upon which we can rely. +Dion Cassius, the historian, who wrote more than a century later, +does not hesitate to use his imagination, telling us that Pompeii +was buried under showers of ashes "while all the people were +sitting in the theatre." This statement has been effectively made +use of by Bulwer, in his "Last Days of Pompeii." In this he +pictures for us a gladiatorial combat in the arena, with thousands +of deeply interested spectators occupying the surrounding seats. +The novelist works his story up to a thrilling climax in which the +volcano plays a leading part. + +This is all very well as a vivid piece of fiction, but it does not +accord with fact, since Dion Cassius was undoubtedly incorrect in +his statement. We now know from the evidence furnished by the +excavations that none of the people were destroyed in the theatres, +and, indeed, that there were very few who did not escape from both +cities. It is very likely that many of them returned and dug down +for the most valued treasures in their buried habitations. Dion +Cassius may have obtained the material for his accounts from the +traditions of the descendants of survivors, and if so he shows how +terrible must have been the impression made upon their minds. He +assures us that during the eruption a multitude of men of +superhuman nature appeared, sometimes on the mountain and sometimes +in the environs, that stones and smoke were thrown out, the sun was +hidden, and then the giants seemed to rise again, while the sounds +of trumpets were heard. + + +LAKE AVERNUS + + +Not far from Vesuvius lay the famous Lake Avernus, whose name was +long a popular synonym for the infernal regions. The lake is +harmless to-day, but its reputation indicates that it was not +always so. There is every reason to believe that it hides the +outlet of an extinct volcano, and that long after the volcano +ceased to be active it emitted gases as fatal to animal life as +those suffocating vapors which annihilated all the cattle on the +Island of Lancerote, in the Canaries, in the year 1730. Its name +signifies "birdless," indicating that its ascending vapors were +fatal to all birds that attempted to fly above its surface. + +In the superstition of the Middle Ages Vesuvius assumed the +character which had before been given to Avernus, and was regarded +as the mouth of hell. Cardinal Damiano, in a letter to Pope +Nicholas II., written about the year 1060 tells the story of how a +priest, who had left his mother ill at Beneventum, went on his +homeward way to Naples past the crater of Vesuvius, and heard +issuing therefrom the voice of his mother in great agony. He +afterward found that her death coincided exactly with the time at +which he had heard her voice. + +A trip to the summit of Vesuvius is one of the principal +attractions for strangers who are visiting Naples. There is a +fascination about that awful slayer of cities which few can resist, +and no less attractive is the city of Pompeii, now largely laid +bare after being buried for eighteen centuries. We are indebted to +Henry Haynie for the following interesting description: "Once seen, +it will never be forgotten. It is full of suggestions. It kindles +emotions that are worth the kindling, and brings on dreams that are +worth the dreaming. Of the three places overwhelmed, Herculaneum, +Pompeii and Stabiae, the last scarcely repays excavation in one +sense, and the first in another; but to watch the diggers at +Pompeii is fascinating, even when there is no reasonable +expectation of a find. Herculaneum was buried with lava, or rather +with tufa, and it is so very hard that the expense of uncovering of +only a small part of that city has been very great. + + +HOW POMPEII IMPRESSES ITS VISITORS + + +"Pompeii was smothered in ashes, however, and most of it is +uncovered now. But while there is much that is fascinating, and +all of it is instructive, there is nothing grand or awe-inspiring +in the ruins of Pompeii. No visitor stands breathless as in the +great hall of Karnak or in the once dreadful Coliseum at Rome, or +dreams with sensuous delight as before the Jasmine Court at Agra. + +"The weirdness of the scene possesses us as a haunted chamber +might. We have before us the narrow lanes, paved with tufa, in +which Roman wagon wheels have worn deep ruts. We cross streets on +stepping-stones which sandaled feet ages ago polished. We see the +wine shops with empty jars, counters stained with liquor, stone +mills where the wheat was ground, and the very ovens in which bread +was baked more than eighteen centuries ago. 'Welcome' is offered +us at one silent, broken doorway; at another we are warned to +'Beware of the dog!' The painted figures,--some of them so +artistic and rich in colors that pictures of them are disbelieved,-- +the mosaic pavements, the empty fountains, the altars and +household gods, the marble pillars and the small gardens are there +just as the owners left them. Some of the walls are scribbled over +by the small boys of Pompeii in strange characters which mock +modern erudition. In places we read the advertisements of +gladiatorial shows, never to come off, the names of candidates for +legislative office who were never to sit. There is nothing like +this elsewhere. + +"The value of Pompeii to those classic students who would +understand, not the speech only, but the life and the every-day +habits, of the ancient world, is too high for reckoning. Its +inestimable evidence may be seen in the fact that any high-school +boy can draw the plan of a Roman house, while ripest scholars +hesitate on the very threshold of a Greek dwelling. This is +because no Hellenic Pompeii has yet been discovered, but thanks to +the silent city close to the beautiful Bay of Naples, the Latin +house is known from ostium to porticus, from the front door to the +back garden wall. + + +STREETS AND HOUSES OF POMPEII + + +"The streets of Pompeii must have had a charm unapproached by those +of any city now in existence. The stores, indeed, were wretched +little dens. Two or three of them commonly occupied the front of a +house on either side of the entrance, the ostium; but when the door +lay open, as was usually the case, a passerby could look into the +atrium, prettily decorated and hung with rich stuffs. The sunshine +entered through an aperture in the roof, and shone on the waters of +the impluvium, the mosaic floor, the altar of the household gods +and the flowers around the fountain. + +"As the life of the Pompeiians was all outdoors, their pretty homes +stood open always. There was indeed a curtain betwixt the atrium +and the peristyle, but it was drawn only when the master gave a +banquet. Thus a wayfarer in the street could see, beyond the hall +described and its busy servants, the white columns of the +peristyle, with creepers trained about them, flowers all around, +and jets of water playing through pipes which are still in place. +In many cases the garden itself could be observed between the +pillars of the further gallery, and rich paintings on the wall +beyond that. + +"But how far removed those little palaces of Pompeii were from our +notion of well-being is scarcely to be understood by one who has +not seen them. It is a question strange in all points of view +where the family slept in the houses, nearly all of which had no +second story. In the most graceful villas the three to five +sleeping chambers round the atrium and four round the peristyle +were rather ornamental cupboards than aught else. One did not +differ from another, and if these were devoted to the household the +slaves, male and female, must have slept on the floor outside. The +master, his family and his guest used these small, dark rooms, +which were apparently without such common luxuries as we expect in +the humblest home. All their furniture could hardly have been more +than a bed and a footstool; but it should be remembered that the +public bath was a daily amusement. The kitchen of each villa +certainly was not furnished with such ingenuity, expense or thought +as the stories of Roman gormandising would have led us to expect. +In the house of the Aedile--so called from the fact that 'Pansam +Aed.' is inscribed in red characters by the doorway--the cook seems +to have been employed in frying eggs at the moment when increasing +danger put him to flight. His range, four partitions of brick, was +very small; a knife, a strainer, a pan lay by the fire just as they +fell from the slave's hand." + + +VALUE OF THE DISCOVERY OF POMPEII + + +This description strongly presents to us the principal value of the +discovery of Pompeii. Interesting as are the numerous works of art +found in its habitations, and important as is their bearing upon +some branches of the art of the ancient world, this cannot compare +in interest with the flood of light which is here thrown on ancient +life in all its details, enabling us to picture to ourselves the +manners and habits of life of a cultivated and flourishing +population at the beginning of the Christian era, to an extent +which no amount of study of ancient history could yield. + +Looking upon the work of the volcano as essentially destructive, as +we naturally do, we have here a valuable example of its power as a +preservative agent; and it is certainly singular that it is to a +volcano we owe much of what we know concerning the cities, +dwellings and domestic life of the people of the Roman Empire. + +It would be very fortunate for students of antiquity if similar +disasters had happened to cities in other ancient civilized lands, +however unfortunate it might have been to their inhabitants. But +doubtless we are better off without knowledge gained from ruins +thus produced. + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +Eruptions of Vesuvius, Etna and Stromboli. + + +Mount Vesuvius is of especial interest as being the only active +volcano on the continent of Europe--all others of that region being +on the islands of the Mediterranean--and for the famous ancient +eruption described in the last chapter. Before this it had borne +the reputation of being extinct, but since then it has frequently +shown that its fires have not burned out, and has on several +occasions given a vigorous display of its powers. + +During the fifteen hundred years succeeding the destructive event +described eruptions were of occasional occurrence, though of no +great magnitude. But throughout the long intervals when Vesuvius +was at rest it was noted that Etna and Ischia were more or less +disturbed. + + +THE BIRTH OF MONTE NUOVO + + +In 1538 a startling evidence was given that there was no decline of +energy in the volcanic system of Southern Italy. This was the +sudden birth of the mountain still known as Monte Nuovo, or New +Mountain, which was thrown up in the Campania near Avernus, on the +spot formerly occupied by the Lucrine Lake. + +For about two years prior to this event the district had been +disturbed by earthquakes, which on September 27 and 28, 1538, +became almost continuous. The low shore was slightly elevated, so +that the sea retreated, leaving bare a strip about two hundred feet +in width. The surface cracked, steam escaped, and at last, early +on the morning of the 29th, a greater rent was made, from which +were vomited furiously "smoke, fire, stones and mud composed of +ashes, making at the time of its opening a noise like the loudest +thunder." + +The ejected material in less than twelve hours built the hill which +has lasted substantially in the same form to our day. It is a +noteworthy fact that since the formation of Monte Nuovo there has +been no volcanic disturbance in any part of the Neapolitan district +except in Vesuvius, which for five centuries previous had remained +largely at rest. + + +LAVA FROM VESUVIUS + + +The first recognised appearance of lava in the eruptions of +Vesuvius was in the violent eruption of 1036. This was succeeded +at intervals by five other outbreaks, none of them of great energy. +After 1500 the crater became completely quiet, the whole mountain +in time being grown over with luxuriant vegetation, while by the +next century the interior of the crater became green with +shrubbery, indicating that no injurious gases were escaping. + +This was sleep, not death. In 1631 the awakening came in an +eruption of terrible violence. Almost in a moment the green mantle +of woodland and shrubbery was torn away and death and destruction +left where peace and safety had seemed assured. + +Seven streams of lava poured from the crater and swept rapidly down +the mountain side, leaving ruin along their paths. Resina, +Granasello and Torre del Greco, three villages that had grown up +during the period of quiescence, were more or less overwhelmed by +the molten lava. Great torrents of hot water also poured out, +adding to the work of desolation. It was estimated that eighteen +thousand of the inhabitants were killed. + +What made the horror all the greater was a frightful error of +judgment, similar to that of the Governor of Martinique at St. +Pierre. The Governor of Torre del Greco had refused to be warned +in time, and prevented the people from making their escape until it +was too late. Not until the lava had actually reached the walls +was the order for departure given. Before the order could be acted +upon the molten streams burst through the walls into the crowded +streets, and overwhelmed the vast majority of the inhabitants. + +In this violent paroxysm the whole top of the mountain is said to +have been swept away, the new crater which took the place of the +old one being greatly lowered. From that date Vesuvius has never +been at rest for any long interval, and eruptions of some degree of +violence have been rarely more than a few years apart. Of its +various later manifestations of energy we select for description +that of 1767, of which an interesting account by a careful observer +is extant. + + +GREAT ERUPTION OF 1767 + + +From the 10th of December, 1766, to March, 1767, Vesuvius was +quiet; then it began to throw up stones from time to time. In +April the throws were more frequent, and at night the red glare +grew stronger on the cloudy columns which hung over the crater. +These repeated throws of cinders, ashes and pumice-stones so much +increased the small cone of eruption which had been left in the +centre of the flat crateral space that its top became visible at a +distance. + +On the 7th of August there issued a small stream of lava from a +breach in the side of a small cone; the lava gradually filled the +space between the cone and the crateral edge; on the 12th of +September it overflowed the crater, and ran down the mountain. +Stones were ejected which took ten seconds in their fall, from +which it may be computed that the height which the stones reached +was 1,600 feet. Padre Torre, a great observer of Vesuvius, says +they went up above a thousand feet. The lava ceased on the 18th of +October, but at 8 A. M. on the 19th it rushed out at a different +place, after volleys of stones had been thrown to an immense +height, and the huge traditional pine-tree of smoke reappeared. On +this occasion that vast phantom extended its menacing shadow over +Capri, at a distance of twenty-eight miles from Vesuvius. + +The lava at first came out of a mouth about one hundred yards below +the crater, on the side toward Monte Somma. While occupied in +viewing this current, the observer heard a violent noise within the +mountain; saw it split open at the distance of a quarter of a mile, +and saw from the new mouth a mountain of liquid fire shoot up many +feet, and then, like a torrent, roll on toward him. The earth +shook; stones fell thick around him; dense clouds of ashes darkened +the air; loud thunders came from the mountain top, and he took to +precipitate flight. The Padre's account is too lively and +instructive for his own words to be omitted. + + +PADRE TORRE'S NARRATIVE + + +"I was making my observations upon the lava, which had already, +from the spot where it first broke out, reached the valley, when, +on a sudden, about noon, I heard a violent noise within the +mountain, and at a spot about a quarter of a mile off the place +where I stood the mountain split; and with much noise, from this +new mouth, a fountain of liquid fire shot up many feet high, and +then like a torrent rolled on directly towards us. The earth shook +at the same time that a volley of stones fell thick upon us; in an +instant clouds of black smoke and ashes caused almost a total +darkness; the explosions from the top of the mountain were much +louder than any thunder I ever heard, and the smell of the sulphur +was very offensive. My guide, alarmed, took to his heels; and I +must confess that I was not at my ease. I followed close, and we +ran near three miles without stopping; as the earth continued to +shake under our feet, I was apprehensive of the opening of a fresh +mouth which might have cut off our retreat. + +"I also feared that the violent explosions would detach some of the +rocks off the mountain of Somma, under which we were obliged to +pass; besides, the pumice-stones, falling upon us like hail, were +of such a size as to cause a disagreeable sensation in the part +upon which they fell. After having taken breath, as the earth +trembled greatly I thought it most prudent to leave the mountain +and return to my villa, where I found my family in great alarm at +the continual and violent explosions of the volcano, which shook +our house to its very foundation, the doors and windows swinging +upon their hinges. + +"About two of the clock in the afternoon (19th) another lava stream +forced its way out of the same place from whence came the lava of +last year, so that the conflagration was soon as great on this side +of the mountain as on the other which I had just left. I observed +on my way to Naples, which was in less than two hours after I had +left the mountain, that the lava had actually covered three miles +of the very road through which we had retreated. This river of +lava in the Atrio del Cavallo was sixty or seventy feet deep, and +in some places nearly two miles broad. Besides the explosions, +which were frequent, there was a continued subterranean and violent +rumbling noise, which lasted five hours in the night,--supposed to +arise from contact of the lava with rain-water lodged in cavities +within. The whole neighborhood was shaken violently; Portici and +Naples were in the extremity of alarm; the churches were filled; +the streets were thronged with processions of saints, and various +ceremonies were performed to quell the fury of the mountain. + +"In the night of the 20th, the occasion being critical, the +prisoners in the public jail attempted to escape, and the mob set +fire to the gates of the residence of the Cardinal Archbishop +because he refused to bring out the relics of St. Januarius. The +21st was a quieter day, but the whole violence of the eruption +returned on the 22d, at 10 A. M., with the same thundering noise, +but more violent and alarming. Ashes fell in abundance in the +streets of Naples, covering the housetops and balconies an inch +deep. Ships at sea, twenty leagues from Naples, were covered with +them. + +"In the midst of these horrors, the mob, growing tumultuous and +impatient, obliged the Cardinal to bring out the head of St. +Januarius, at the extremity of Naples, toward Vesuvius; and it is +well attested here that the eruption ceased the moment the saint +came in sight of the mountain. It is true the noise ceased about +that time after having lasted five hours, as it had done the +preceding days. + +"On the 23d the lava still ran, but on the 24th it ceased; but +smoke continued. On the 25th there rose a vast column of black +smoke, giving out much forked lightning with thunder, in a sky +quite clear except for the smoke of the volcano. On the 26th smoke +continued, but on the 27th the eruption came to an end." + +This eruption was also described by Sir William Hamilton, who +continued to keep a close watch on the movements of the volcano for +many years. The next outbreak of especial violence took place in +1779, when what seemed to the eye a column of fire ascended two +miles high, while cinder fragments fell far and wide, destroying +the hopes of harvest throughout a wide district. They fell in +abundance thirty miles distant, and the dust of the explosion was +carried a hundred miles away. + +In 1793 the crater became active again, and in 1794 after a period +of short tranquillity or comparative inaction, the mountain again +became agitated, and one of the most formidable eruptions known in +the history of Vesuvius began. It was in some respects unlike many +others, being somewhat peculiar as to the place of its outburst, +the temperature of the lava, and the course of the current. +Breislak, an Italian geologist, observed the characteristic +phenomena with the eye of science, and his account supplies many +interesting facts. + + +BREISLAK ON THE ERUPTION OF 1794 + + +Breislak remarked certain changes in the character of the earth's +motions during this six hours' eruption, which led him to some +particular conjecture of the cause. At the beginning the trembling +was continual, and accompanied by a hollow noise, similar to that +occasioned by a river falling into a subterranean cavern. The +lava, at the time of its being disgorged, from the impetuous and +uninterrupted manner in which it was ejected, causing it to strike +violently against the walls of the vent, occasioned a continual +oscillation of the mountain. Toward the middle of the night this +vibratory motion ceased, and was succeeded by distant shocks. The +fluid mass, diminished in quantity, now pressed less violently +against the walls of the aperture, and no longer issued in a +continual and gushing stream, but only at intervals, when the +interior fermentation elevated the boiling matter above the mouth. +About 4 A. M. the shocks began to be less numerous, and the +intervals between them rendered their force and duration more +perceptible. + +During this tremendous eruption at the base of the Vesuvian cone, +and the fearful earthquakes which accompanied it, the summit was +tranquil. The sky was serene, the stars were brilliant, and only +over Vesuvius hung a thick, dark smoke-cloud, lighted up into an +auroral arch by the glare of a stream of fire more than two miles +long, and more than a quarter of a mile broad. The sea was calm, +and reflected the red glare; while from the source of the lava came +continual jets of uprushing incandescent stones. Nearer to view, +Torre del Greco in flames, and clouds of black smoke, with falling +houses, presented a dark and tragical foreground, heightened by the +subterranean thunder of the mountain, and the groans and +lamentations of fifteen thousand ruined men, women and children. + +The heavy clouds of ashes which were thrown out on this occasion +gathered in the early morning into a mighty shadow over Naples and +the neighborhood; the sun rose pale and obscure, and a long, dim +twilight reigned afterward. + +Such were the phenomena on the western side of Vesuvius. They were +matched by others on the eastern aspect, not visible at Naples, +except by reflection of their light in the atmosphere. The lava on +this side flowed eastward, along a route often traversed by lava, +by the broken crest of the Cognolo and the valley of Sorienta. The +extreme length to which this current reached was not less than an +Italian mile. The cubic content was estimated to be half that +already assigned to the western currents. Taken together they +amounted to 20,744,445 cubic metres, or 2,804,440 cubic fathoms; +the constitution of the lava being the same in each, both springing +from one deep-seated reservoir of fluid rock. + +The eruption of lava ceased on the 16th, and then followed heavy +discharges of ashes, violent shocks of earthquakes, thunder and +lightning in the columns of vapors and ashes, and finally heavy +rains, lasting till the 3d of July. The barometer during all the +eruption was steady. + +Breislak made an approximate calculation of the quantity of ashes +which fell on Vesuvius during this great eruption, and states the +result as equal to what would cover a circular area 6 kilometres +(about 3 1/2 English miles) in radius, and 39 centimetres (about 15 +inches) in depth. + + +STRANGE EFFECTS + + +Among the notable things which attended this eruption, it is +recorded that in Torre del Greco metallic and other substances +exposed to the current were variously affected. Silver was melted, +glass became porcelain, iron swelled to four times its volume and +lost its texture. Brass was decomposed, and its constituent copper +crystallized in cubic and octahedral forms aggregated in beautiful +branches. Zinc was sometimes turned to blende. During the +eruption, the lip of the crater toward Bosco Tre Case on the south +east, fell in, or was thrown off, and the height of that part was +reduced 426 feet. + +On the 17th, the sea was found in a boiling state 100 yards off the +new promontory made by the lava of Torre del Greco, and no boat +could remain near it on account of the melting of the pitch in her +bottom. For nearly a month after the eruption vast quantities of +fine white ashes, mixed with volumes of steam, were thrown out from +the crater; the clouds thus generated were condensed into heavy +rain, and large tracts of the Vesuvian slopes were deluged with +volcanic mud. It filled ravines, such as Fosso Grande, and +concreted and hardened there into pumiceous tufa--a very +instructive phenomenon. + +Immense injury was done to the rich territory of Somma, Ottajano +and Bosco by heavy rains, which swept along cinders, broke up the +road and bridges, and overturned trees and houses for the space of +fifteen days. + +There were few years during the nineteenth century in which +Vesuvius did not show symptoms of its internal fires, and at +intervals it manifested much activity, though not equaling the +terrible eruptions of its past history. The severest eruptions in +that century were those of 1871 and 1876. In the first a sudden +emission of lava killed twenty spectators at the mouth of the +crater, and only spent its fury after San Sebastian and Massa had +been well nigh annihilated. Fragments of rock were thrown up to +the height of 4,000 feet, and the explosions were so violent that +the whole countryside fled panic stricken to Naples. The activity +of the volcano, accompanied by distinct shocks of earthquake, +lasted for a week. + +In 1876, for three weeks together, lava streamed down the side of +Vesuvius, sweeping away the village of Cercolo and running nearly +to the sea at Ponte Maddaloni. There were then formed ten small +craters within the greater one. But these were united by a later +eruption in 1888, and pressure from beneath formed a vast cone +where they had been. + + +HARDIHOOD OF THE PEOPLE + + +It may seem strange that so dangerous a neighborhood should be +inhabited. But so it is. Though Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabiae +lie buried beneath the mud and ashes belched out of the mouth of +Vesuvius, the villages of Portici and Revina, Torre del Greco and +Torre del Annunziata have taken their place, and a large +population, cheerful and prosperous, flourishes around the +disturbed mountain and over the district of which it is the +somewhat untrustworthy safety-valve. + +It is thus that man, in his eagerness to cultivate all available +parts of the earth, dares the most frightful perils and ventures +into the most threatening situations, seeking to snatch the means +of life from the very jaws of death. The danger is soon forgotten, +the need of cultivation of the ground is ever pressing, and no +threats of peril seem capable of restraining the activity of man +for many years. Though the proposition of abandoning the Island of +Martinique has been seriously considered, the chances are that, +before many years have passed, a cheerful and busy population will +be at work again on the flanks of Mont Pelee. + + +MOUNT ETNA + + +On the eastern coast of the Island of Sicily, and not far from the +sea, rises in solitary grandeur Mount Etna, the largest and highest +of European volcanoes. Its height above the level of the sea is a +little over 10,870 feet, considerably above the limit of perpetual +snow. It accordingly presents the striking phenomenon of volcanic +vapors ascending from a snow-clad summit. The base of the mountain +is eighty-seven miles in circumference, and nearly circular; but +there is a wide additional extent all around overspread by its +lava. The lower portions of the mountain are exceedingly fertile, +and richly adorned with corn-fields, vineyards, olive-groves and +orchards. Above this region are extensive forests, chiefly of oak, +chestnut, and pine, with here and there clumps of cork-trees and +beech. In this forest region are grassy glades, which afford rich +pasture to numerous flocks. Above the forest lies a volcanic +desert, covered with black lava and slag. Out of this region, +which is comparatively flat rises the principal cone, about 1,100 +feet in height, having on its summit the crater, whence sulphurous +vapors are continually evolved. + +The great height of Etna has exerted a remarkable influence on its +general conformation: for the volcanic forces have rarely been of +sufficient energy to throw the lava quite up to the crater at the +summit. The consequence has been, that numerous subsidiary craters +and cones have been formed all around the flanks of the mountain, +so that it has become rather a cluster of volcanoes than a single +volcanic cone. + +The eruptions of this mountain have been numerous, records of them +extending back to several centuries before the Christian era, while +unrecorded ones doubtless took place much further back. After the +beginning of the Christian era, and more especially after the +breaking forth of Vesuvius in 79 A. D., Etna enjoyed longer +intervals of repose. Its eruptions since that time have +nevertheless been numerous--more especially during the intervals +when Vesuvius was inactive--there being a sort of alternation +between the periods of great activity of the two mountains; +although there are not a few instances of their having been both in +action at the same time. + + +SIMILARITY IN ETNA'S ERUPTIONS + + +There is a great similarity in the character of the eruptions of +Etna. Earthquakes presage the outburst, loud explosions follow, +rifts and bocche del fuoco open in the sides of the mountain; +smoke, sand, ashes and scoriae are discharged, the action localizes +itself in one or more craters, cinders are thrown up and accumulate +around the crater and cone, ultimately lava rises and frequently +breaks down one side of the cone where the resistance is least; +then the eruption is at an end. + +Smyth says: "The symptoms which precede an eruption are generally +irregular clouds of smoke, ferilli or volcanic lightnings, hollow +intonations and local earthquakes that often alarm the surrounding +country as far as Messina, and have given the whole province the +name of Val Demone, as being the abode of infernal spirits. These +agitations increase until the vast cauldron becomes surcharged with +the fused minerals, when, if the convulsion is not sufficiently +powerful to force them from the great crater (which, from its great +altitude and the weight of the candent matter, requires an uncommon +effort), they explode through that part of the side which offers +the least resistance with a grand and terrific effect, throwing +red-hot stones and flakes of fire to an incredible height, and +spreading ignited cinders and ashes in every direction." + +After the eruption of ashes, lava frequently follows, sometimes +rising to the top of the cone of cinders, at others disrupting it +on the least resisting side. When the lava has reached the base of +the cone it begins to flow down the mountain, and, being then in a +very fluid state, it moves with great velocity. As it cools, the +sides and surface begin to harden, its velocity decreases, and +after several days it moves only a few yards an hour. The internal +portions, however, part slowly with their heat, and months after +the eruption clouds of steam arise from the black and externally +cold lava-beds after rain; which, having penetrated through the +cracks, has found its way to the heated mass within. + + +THE ERUPTION OF 1669 + + +The most memorable of the eruptions of Etna was that which elevated +the double cone of Monte Rossi and destroyed a large part of the +city of Catania. It happened in the year 1669, and was preceded by +an earthquake, which overthrew the town of Nicolosi, situated ten +miles inland from Catania, and about twenty miles from the top of +Etna. The eruption began with the sudden opening of an enormous +fissure, extending from a little way above Nicolosi to within about +a mile of the top of the principal cone, its length being twelve +miles, its average breadth six feet, its depth unknown. + +We have a more detailed account of this eruption than of any +preceding one, as it was observed by men of science from various +countries. The account from which we select is that of Alfonso +Borelli, Professor of Mathematics in Catania. + +From the fissure above mentioned, he says, there came a bright +light. Six mouths opened in a line with it and emitted vast +columns of smoke, accompanied by loud bellowings which could be +heard forty miles off. Towards the close of the day a crater +opened about a mile below the others, which ejected red-hot stones +to a considerable distance, and afterward sand and ashes which +covered the country for a distance of sixty miles. The new crater +soon vomited forth a torrent of lava which presented a front of two +miles; it encircled Monpilieri, and afterward flowed towards +Belpasso, a town of 8,000 inhabitants, which was speedily +destroyed. Seven mouths of fire opened around the new crater, and +in three days united with it, forming one large crater 800 feet in +diameter. All this time the torrent of lava continued to descend, +it destroying the town of Mascalucia on the 23d of March. On the +same day the crater cast up great quantities of sand, ashes and +scoriae, and formed above itself the great double-coned hill now +called Monte Rossi, from the red color of the ashes of which it is +mainly composed. + + +VILLAGES AND CITIES BURIED + + +On the 25th very violent earthquakes occurred, and the cone above +the great central crater was shaken down into the crater for the +fifth time since the first century A. D. The original current of +lava divided into three streams, one of which destroyed San Pietro, +the second Camporotondo, and the third the lands about Mascalucia +and afterward the village of Misterbianco. Fourteen villages were +altogether destroyed, and the lava flowed toward Catania. At +Albanelli, two miles from the city, it undermined a hill covered +with cornfields and carried it forward a considerable distance. A +vineyard was also seen to be floating on its fiery surface. When +the lava reached the walls of Catania, it accumulated without +progression until it rose to the top of the wall, 60 feet in +height, and it then fell over in a fiery cascade and overwhelmed a +part of the city. Another portion of the same stream threw down +120 feet of the wall and flowed into the city. + +On the 23d of April the lava reached the sea, which it entered as a +stream 600 yards broad and 40 feet deep. The stream had moved at +the rate of thirteen miles in twenty days, but as it cooled it +moved less quickly, and during the last twenty-three days of its +course, it advanced only two miles. On reaching the sea the water, +of course, began to boil violently, and clouds of steam arose, +carrying with them particles of scoriae. Towards the end of April +the stream on the west side of Catania, which had appeared to be +consolidated, again burst forth, and flowed into the garden of the +Benedictine Monastery of San Niccola, and then branched off into +the city. Attempts were made to build walls to arrest its +progress. + +An attempt of another kind was made by a gentleman of Catania, +named Pappalardo, who took fifty men with him, having previously +provided them with skins for protection from the intense heat and +with crowbars to effect an opening in the lava. They pierced the +solid outer crust of solidified lava, and a rivulet of the molten +interior immediately gushed out and flowed in the direction of +Paterno, whereupon 500 men of that town, alarmed for its safety, +took up arms and caused Pappalardo and his men to desist. The lava +did not altogether stop for four months, and two years after it had +ceased to flow it was found to be red hot beneath the surface. +Even eight years after the eruption quantities of steam escaped +from the lava after a shower of rain. + + +THE STONES EJECTED + + +The stones which were ejected from the crater during this eruption +were often of considerable magnitude, and Borelli calculated that +the diameter of one which he saw was 50 feet; it was thrown to a +distance of a mile, and as it fell it penetrated the earth to a +depth of 23 feet. The volume of lava emitted during the eruption +amounted to many millions of cubic feet. Ferara considers that the +length of the stream was at least fifteen miles, while its average +width was between two and three miles, so that it covered at least +forty square miles of surface. + +Among the towns overflowed by this great eruption was Mompilieri. +Thirty-five years afterward, in 1704, an excavation was made on the +site of the principal church of this place, and at the depth of +thirty-five feet the workmen came upon the gate, which was adorned +with three statues. From under an arch which had been formed by +the lava, one of these statues, with a bell and some coins, were +extracted in good preservation. This fact is remarkable; for in a +subsequent eruption, which happened in 1766, a hill about fifty +feet in height, being surrounded on either side by two streams of +lava, was in a quarter of an hour swept along by the current. The +latter event may be explained by supposing that the hill in +question was cavernous in its structure, and that the lava, +penetrating into the cavities, forced asunder their walls, and so +detached the superincumbent mass from its supports. + +It is not by its streams of fire alone that Etna ravages the +valleys and plains at its base. It sometimes also deluges them +with great floods of water. On the 2d of March, 1755, two streams +of lava, issuing from the highest crater, were at once precipitated +on an enormous mass of very deep snow, which then clothed the +summit. These fiery currents ran through the snow to a distance of +three miles, melting it as they flowed. The consequence was, that +a tremendous torrent of water rushed down the sides of the +mountain, carrying with it vast quantities of sand, volcanic +cinders and blocks of lava, with which it overspread the flanks of +the mountain and the plains beneath, which it devastated in its +course. + +The volume of water was estimated at 16,000,000 cubic feet, it +forming a channel two miles broad and in some places thirty-four +feet deep, and flowing at the rate of two-thirds of a mile in a +minute. All the winter's snow on the mountain could not have +yielded such a flood, and Lyell considered that it melted older +layers of ice which had been preserved under a covering of volcanic +dust. + + +ETNA IN 1819 + + +Another great eruption took place in 1819, which presented some +peculiarities. Near the point whence the highest stream of lava +issued in 1811, there were opened three large mouths, which, with +loud explosions, threw up hot cinders and sand, illuminated by a +strong glare from beneath. Shortly afterwards there was opened, a +little lower down, another mouth, from which a similar eruption +took place; and still farther down there soon appeared a fifth, +whence there flowed a torrent of lava which rapidly spread itself +over the Val del Bove. During the first forty-eight hours it +flowed nearly four miles, when it received a great accession. The +three original mouths became united into one large crater, from +which, as well as from the other two mouths below, there poured +forth a vastly augmented torrent of lava, which rushed with great +impetuosity down the same valley. + +During its progress over this gentle slope, it acquired the usual +crust of hardened slag. It directed its course towards that point +at which Val del Bove opens into the narrow ravine beneath it-- +there being between the two a deep and almost perpendicular +precipice. Arrived at this point, the lava-torrent leaped over the +precipice in a vast cascade, and with a thundering noise, arising +chiefly from the crashing and breaking up of the solid crust, which +was in a great measure pounded to atoms by the fall; it throwing up +such vast clouds of dust as to awaken an alarm that a fresh +eruption had begun at this place, which is within the wooded +region. + +A very violent eruption, which lasted more than nine months, +commenced on the 21st of August, 1852. It was first witnessed by a +party of English tourists, who were ascending the mountain from +Nicolosi in order to see the sunrise from the summit. As they +approached the Casa Inglesi the crater commenced to give forth +ashes and flames of fire. In a narrow defile they were met by a +violent hurricane, which overthrew both the mules and their riders, +and urged them toward the precipices of the Val del Bove. They +sheltered themselves beneath some masses of lava, when suddenly an +earthquake shook the mountain, and their mules in terror fled away. +As day approached they returned on foot to Nicolosi, fortunately +without having sustained injury. In the course of the night many +bocche del fuoco (small lava vents) opened in that part of the Val +del Bove called the Bazo di Trifoglietto, a great fissure opened at +the base of the Giannicola Grande, and a crater was thrown up from +which for seventeen days showers of sand and scoriae were ejected. + + +EFFECT OF THE ERUPTION + + +During the next day a quantity of lava flowed down the Val del +Bove, branching off so that one stream advanced to the foot of +Monte Finocchio, and the other to Monte Calanna. Afterwards it +flowed towards Zaffarana, and devastated a large tract of wooded +region. Four days later a second crater was formed near the first, +from which lava was emitted, together with sand and scoriae, which +caused cones to arise around the craters. The lava moved but +slowly, and towards the end of August it came to a stand, only a +quarter of a mile from Zaffarana. + +On the second of September, Gemellaro ascended Monte Finocchio in +the Val del Bove in order to witness the outburst. He states that +the hill was violently agitated, like a ship at sea. The surface +of the Val del Bove appeared like a molten lake; scoriae were +thrown up from the craters to a great height, and loud explosions +were heard at frequent intervals. The eruption continued to +increase in violence. On October 6 two new mouths opened in the +Val del Bove, emitting lava which flowed towards the valley of +Calanna, and fell over the Salto della Giumenta, a precipice nearly +200 feet deep. The noise which it produced was like that of a +clash of metallic masses. The eruption continued with abated +violence during the early months of 1853, and it did not finally +cease till May 27. The entire mass of lava ejected is estimated to +have been equal to an area six miles long by two miles broad, with +an average depth of about twelve feet. + +This eruption was one of the grandest of all the known eruptions of +Etna. During its outflow more than 2,000,000,000 cubic feet of +molten lava was spread out over a space of three square miles. +There have been several eruptions since its date, but none of +marked prominence, though the mountain is rarely quiescent for any +lengthened period. + + +THE LIPARI VOLCANOES + + +South-eastward of Ischia, between Calabria and Sicily, the Lipari +Islands arrest attention for the volcanic phenomena they present. +On one of these is Mount Vulcano, or Volcano, from which all this +class of mountains is named. At present the best known of the +Lipari volcanoes is Stromboli, which consists of a single mountain, +having a very obtuse conical form. It has on one side of it +several small craters, of which only one is at present in a state +of activity. + +The total height of the mountain is about 2000 feet, and the +principal crater is situated at about two-thirds of the height. +Stromboli is one of the most active volcanoes in the world. It is +mentioned as being in a state of activity by several writers before +the Christian era, and the commencement of its operations extends +into the past beyond the limits of tradition. Since history began +its action has never wholly ceased, although it may have varied in +intensity from time to time. + +It has been observed that the violence of its eruptive force has a +certain dependence on the weather--being always most intense when +the barometer is lowest. From the position of the crater, it is +possible to ascend the mountain and look down upon it from above. +Even when viewed in this manner, it presents a very striking +appearance. While there is an uninterrupted continuance of small +explosions, there is a frequent succession of more violent +eruptions, at intervals varying in length from seven to fifteen +minutes. + + +HOFFMAN AT STROMBOLI + + +Several eminent observers have approached quite close to the +crater, and examined it narrowly. One of these was M. Hoffman, who +visited it in 1828. + +This eminent geologist, while having his legs held by his +companions, stretched his head over the precipice, and, looking +right down into the mouth of one of the vents of the crater +immediately under him, watched the play of liquid lava within it. +Its surface resembled molten silver, and was constantly rising and +falling at regular intervals. A bubble of white vapor rose and +escaped, with a decrepitating noise, at each ascent of the lava-- +tossing up red-hot fragments of scoria, which continued dancing up +and down with a sort of rhythmic play upon the surface. At +intervals of fifteen minutes or so, there was a pause in these +movements. Then followed a loud report, while the ground trembled, +and there rose to the surface of the lava an immense bubble of +vapor. This, bursting with a crackling noise, threw out to the +height of about 1200 feet large quantities of red-hot stones and +scoriae, which, describing parabolic curves, fell in a fiery, +shower all around. After another brief repose, the more moderate +action was resumed as before. + +Lipari, a neighboring volcano, was formerly more active than +Stromboli, though for centuries past it has been in a state of +complete quiescence. The Island of Volcano lies south of Lipari. +Its crater was active before the Christian era, and still emits +sulphurous and other vapors. At present its main office is to +serve as a sulphur mine. Thus the peak which gives title to all +fire-breathing mountains has become a servant to man. So are the +mighty fallen! + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +Skaptar Jokull and Hecla, the Great Icelandic Volcanoes. + + +The far-northern island of Iceland, on the verge of the frozen +Arctic realm, is one of the most volcanic countries in the world, +whether we regard the number of volcanoes concentrated in so small +a space, or the extraordinary violence of their eruptions. Of +volcanic mountains there are no less than twenty which have been +active during historical times. Skaptar in the north, and Hecla in +the south, being much the best known. In all, twenty-three +eruptions are on record. + +Iceland's volcanoes rival Mount Aetna in height and magnitude, +their action has been more continuous and intense, and the range of +volcanic products is far greater than in Sicily. The latter +island, indeed, is not one-tenth of volcanic origin, while the +whole of Iceland is due to the work of subterranean forces. It is +entirely made up of volcanic rocks, and has seemingly been built up +during the ages from the depths of the seas. It is reported, +indeed, that a new island, the work of volcanic forces, appeared +opposite Mount Hecla in 1563; but this statement is open to doubt. + + +VOLCANOES IN ICELAND + + +The eruptions of the volcanoes in Iceland have been amongst the +most terrible of those carefully recorded. The cold climate of the +island and the height of the mountains produce vast quantities of +snow and ice, which cover the volcanoes and fill up the cracks and +valleys in their sides. When, therefore, an eruption commences, +the intense heat of the boiling lava, and of the steam which rushes +forth from the crater, makes the whole mountain hot, and vast +masses of ice, great fields of snow, and deluges of water roll down +the hill-sides into the plains. The lava pours from the top and +from cracks in the side of the mountain, or is ejected hundreds of +feet, to fall amongst the ice and snow; and the great masses of +red-hot stone cast forth, accompanied by cinders and fine ashes, +splash into the roaring torrent, which tears up rocks in its course +and devastates the surrounding country for miles. + + +DREADFUL FLOODS + + +An eruption of Kotlugja, in 1860, was accompanied by dreadful +floods. It began with a number of earthquakes, which shook the +surrounding country. Then a dark columnar cloud of vapor was seen +to rise by day from the mountain, and by night balls of fire +(volcanic bombs) and red-hot cinders to the height of 24,000 feet +(nearly five miles), which were seen at a distance of 180 miles. +Deluges of water rushed from the heights, bearing along whole +fields of ice and rocky fragments of every size, some vomited from +the volcano, but in great part torn from the flanks of the mountain +itself and carried to the sea, there to add considerably to the +coastline after devastating the intervening country. The fountain +of volcanic bombs consisted of masses of lava, containing gases +which exploded and produced a loud sound, which was said to have +been heard at a distance of 100 miles. The size of the bombs, and +the height to which they must have reached, were very great. But +the most remarkable of the historical eruptions in Iceland were +those of Skaptar Jokull in 1783, and of Hecla in 1845. Of these an +extended description is worthy of being given. + +Of these two memorable eruptions, that of Skaptar Jokull began on +the 11th of June, 1783. It was preceded by a long series of +earthquakes, which had become exceedingly violent immediately +before the eruption. On the 8th, volcanic vapors were emitted from +the summit of the mountain, and on the 11th immense torrents of +lava began to be poured forth from numerous mouths. These torrents +united to form a large stream, which, flowing down into the river +Skapta, not only dried it up, but completely filled the vast gorge +through which the river had held its course. This gorge, 200 feet +in breadth, and from 400 to 600 feet in depth, the lava filled so +entirely as to overflow to a considerable extent the fields on +either side. On issuing from this ravine, the lava flowed into a +deep lake which lay in the course of the river. Here it was +arrested for a while; but it ultimately filled the bed of the lake +altogether--either drying up its waters, or chasing them before it +into the lower part of the river's course. Still forced onward by +the accumulation of molten lava from behind, the stream resumed its +advance, till it reached some ancient volcanic rocks which were +full of caverns. Into these it entered, and where it could not eat +its way by melting the old rock, it forced a passage by shivering +the solid mass and throwing its broken fragments into the air to a +height of 150 feet. + + +A TORRENT OF LAVA + + +On the 18th of June there opened above the first mouth a second of +large dimensions, whence poured another immense torrent of lava, +which flowed with great rapidity over the solidified surface of the +first stream, and ultimately combined with it to form a more +formidable main current. When this fresh stream reached the fiery +lake, which had filled the lower portion of the valley of the +Skapta, a portion of it was forced up the channel of that river +towards the foot of the hill whence it takes its rise. After +pursuing its course for several days, the main body of this stream +reached the edge of a great waterfall called Stapafoss, which +plunged into a deep abyss. Displacing the water, the lava here +leaped over the precipice, and formed a great cataract of fire. +After this, it filled the channel of the river, though extending +itself in breadth far beyond it, and followed it until it reached +the sea. + + +ENORMOUS QUANTITY OF LAVA + + +The 3rd of August brought fresh accessions to the flood of lava +still pouring from the mountain. There being no room in the +channel, now filled by the former lurid stream, which had pursued a +northwesterly course, the fresh lava was forced to take a new +direction towards the southeast, where it entered the bed of +another river with a barbaric name. Here it pursued a course +similar to that which flowed through the channel of the Skapta, +filling up the deep gorges, and then spreading itself out into +great fiery lakes over the plains. + +The eruptions of lava from the mountain continued, with some short +intervals, for two years, and so enormous was the quantity poured +forth during this period that, according to a careful estimate +which has been made, the whole together would form a mass equal to +that of Mont Blanc. Of the two streams, the greater was fifty, the +less forty, miles in length. The Skapta branch attained on the +plains a breadth varying from twelve to fifteen miles--that of the +other was only about half as much. Each of the currents had an +average depth of 100 feet, but in the deep gorges it was no less +than 600 feet. Even as late as 1794 vapors continued to rise from +these great streams, and the water contained in the numerous +fissures formed in their crust was hot. + +The devastation directly wrought by the lava currents themselves +was not the whole of the evils they brought upon unfortunate +Iceland and its inhabitants. Partly owing to the sudden melting of +the snows and glaciers of the mountain, partly owing to the +stoppage of the river courses, immense floods of water deluged the +country in the neighborhood, destroying many villages and a large +amount of agricultural and other property. Twenty villages were +overwhelmed by the lava currents, while the ashes thrown out during +the eruption covered the whole island and the surface of the sea +for miles around its shores. On several occasions the ashes were +drifted by the winds over considerable parts of the European +continent, obscuring the sun and giving the sky a gray and gloomy +aspect. In certain respects they reproduced the phenomena of the +explosion of Mount Krakatoa, which, singularly, occurred just a +century later, in 1883. The strange red sunset phenomena of the +latter were reproduced by this Icelandic event of the eighteenth +century. + +Out of the 50,000 persons who then inhabited Iceland, 9,336 +perished, together with 11,460 head of cattle, 190,480 sheep and +28,000 horses. This dreadful destruction of life was caused partly +by the direct action of the lava currents, partly by the noxious +vapors they emitted, partly by the floods of water, partly by the +destruction of the herbage by the falling ashes, and lastly in +consequence of the desertion of the coasts by the fish, which +formed a large portion of the food of the people. + + +ERUPTION OF MOUNT HECLA + + +After this frightful eruption, no serious volcanic disturbance took +place in Iceland until 1845, when Mount Hecla again became +disastrously active. Mount Hecla has been the most frequent in its +eruptions of any of the Icelandic volcanoes. Previous to 1845 +there had been twenty-two recorded eruptions of this mountain, +since the discovery of Iceland in the ninth century; while from all +the other volcanoes in the island there had been only twenty during +the same period. Hecla has more than once remained in activity for +six years at a time--a circumstance that has rendered it the best +known of the volcanoes of this region. + + +LATER OUTBREAKS + + +After enjoying a long rest of seventy-nine years, this volcano +burst again into violent activity in the beginning of September, +1845. The first inkling of this eruption was conveyed to the +British Islands by a fall of volcanic ashes in the Orkneys, which +occurred on the night of September 2nd during a violent storm. +This palpable hint was soon confirmed by direct intelligence from +Copenhagen. On the 1st of September a severe earthquake, followed +the same night by fearful subterranean noises, alarmed the +inhabitants and gave warning of what was to come. About noon the +next day, with a dreadful crash, there opened in the sides of the +volcano two new mouths, whence two great streams of glowing lava +poured forth. They fortunately flowed down the northern and +northwestern sides of the mountain, where the low grounds are mere +barren heaths, affording a scanty pasture for a few sheep. These +were driven before the fiery stream, but several of them were burnt +before they could escape. The whole mountain was enveloped in +clouds of volcanic ashes and vapors. The rivers near the lava +currents became so hot as to kill the fish, and to be impassable +even on horseback. + +About a fortnight later there was a fresh eruption, of greater +violence, which lasted twenty-two hours, and was accompanied by +detonations so loud as to be heard over the whole island. Two new +craters were formed, one on the southern, the other on the eastern +slope of the cone. The lava issuing from these craters flowed to a +distance of more than twenty-two miles. At about two miles from +its source the fiery stream was a mile wide, and from 40 to 50 feet +deep. It destroyed a large extent of fine pasture and many cattle. +Nearly a month later, on the 15th of October, a fresh flood of lava +burst from the southern crater, and soon heaped up a mass at the +foot of the mountain from 40 to 60 feet in height, three great +columns of vapor, dust and ashes rising at the same time from the +three new craters of the volcano. The mountain continued in a +state of greater or less activity during most of the next year; and +even as late as the month of October, 1846, after a brief pause, it +began again with renewed vehemence. The volumes of dust, ashes and +vapor, thrown up from the craters, and brightly illuminated by the +glowing lava beneath, assumed the appearance of flames, and +ascended to an immense height. + + +ELECTRIC PHENOMENA + + +Among the stones tossed out of the craters was one large mass of +pumice weighing nearly half a ton, which was carried to a distance +of between four and five miles. The rivers were flooded by the +melting of ice and snow which had accumulated on the mountain. The +greatest mischief wrought by these successive eruptions was the +destruction of the pasturages, which were for the most part covered +with volcanic ashes. Even where left exposed, the herbage acquired +a poisonous taint which proved fatal to the cattle, inducing among +them a peculiar murrain. Fortunately, owing to the nature of the +district through which the lava passed, there was on this occasion +no loss of human life. + +The Icelandic volcanoes are remarkable for the electric phenomena +which they produce in the atmosphere. Violent thunder-storms, with +showers of rain and hail, are frequent accompaniments of volcanic +eruptions everywhere; but owing to the coldness and dryness of the +air into which the vapors from the Icelandic volcanoes ascend, +their condensation is so sudden and violent that great quantities +of electricity are developed. Thunder-storms accompanied by the +most vivid lightnings are the result. Humboldt mentions in his +"Cosmos" that, during an eruption of Kotlugja, one of the southern +Icelandic volcanoes, the lightning from the cloud of volcanic vapor +killed eleven horses and two men (Cosmos i. 223). Great displays +of the aurora borealis usually accompany the volcanic eruptions of +this island--doubtless resulting from the quantity of electricity +imparted to the higher atmosphere by the condensation of the +ascending vapors. On the 18th of August, 1783, while the great +eruption of Skaptar Jokull was in progress, an immense fire-ball +passed over England and the European continent as far as Rome. +This ball which was estimated to have had a diameter exceeding half +a mile, is supposed to have been of electrical origin, and due to +the high state of electric tension in the atmosphere over Iceland +at that time. + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +Volcanoes of the Philippines and Other Pacific Islands. + + +We cannot do better than open this chapter with an account of the +work of volcanoes in the mountain-girdled East Indian island of +Java. This large and fertile tropical island has a large native +population, and many European settlers are employed in cultivating +spices, coffee and woods. The island is rather more than 600 miles +long, and it is not 150 miles broad in any part; and this narrow +shape is produced by a chain of volcanoes which runs along it. +There is scarcely any other region in the world where volcanoes are +so numerous, even in the East, where the volcano is a very common +product of nature. Some of the volcanoes of Java are constantly in +eruption, while others are inactive. + +One of their number, Galung Gung, was previous to 1822 covered from +top to bottom with a dense forest; around it were populous +villages. The mountain was high; there was a slight hollow on its +top--a basin-like valley, carpeted with the softest sward; brooks +rippled down the hillside through the forests, and, joining their +silvery streams, flowed on through beautiful valleys into the +distant sea. In the month of July, 1822, there were signs of an +approaching disturbance; this tranquil peacefulness was at an end; +one of the rivers became muddy, and its waters grew hot. + +In October, without any warning, a most terrific eruption occurred. +A loud explosion was heard; the earth shook, and immense columns of +hot water, boiling mud mixed with burning brimstone, ashes and +stones, were hurled upwards from the mountain top like a +waterspout, and with such wonderful force that large quantities +fell at a distance of forty miles. Every valley near the mountain +became filled with burning torrents; the rivers, swollen with hot +water and mud, overflowed their banks, and swept away the escaping +villagers; and the bodies of cattle, wild beasts, and birds were +carried down the flooded stream. + + +ERUPTION OF GALUNG GUNG + + +A space of twenty-four miles between the mountain and a river forty +miles distant was covered to such a depth with blue mud, that +people were buried in their houses, and not a trace of the numerous +villages and plantations was visible. The boiling mud and cinders +were cast forth with such violence from the crater, that while many +distant villages were utterly destroyed and buried, others much +nearer the volcano were scarcely injured; and all this was done in +five short hours. + +Four days afterwards a second eruption occurred more violent than +the first, and hot water and mud were cast forth with masses of +slag like the rock called basalt some of which fell seven miles +off. A violent earthquake shook the whole district, and the top of +the mountain fell in, and so did one of its sides, leaving a gaping +chasm. Hills appeared where there had been level land before, and +the rivers changed their courses, drowning in one night 2,000 +people. At some distance from the mountain a river runs through a +large town, and the first intimation the inhabitants had of all +this horrible destruction was the news that the bodies of men and +the carcases of stags, rhinoceroses, tigers, and other animals, +were rushing along to the sea. No less than 114 villages were +destroyed, and above 4,000 persons were killed by this terrible +catastrophe. + +Fifty years before this eruption, Mount Papandayang, one of the +highest burning mountains of Java, was constantly throwing out +steam and smoke, but as no harm was done, the natives continued to +live on its sides. Suddenly this enormous mountain fell in, and +left a gap fifteen miles long and six broad. Forty villages were +destroyed, some being carried down and others overwhelmed by mud +and burning lava. No less than 2,957 people perished, with vast +numbers of cattle; moreover, most of the coffee plantations in the +neighboring districts were destroyed. + +Even more terrible was the eruption of Mount Salek, another of the +volcanoes of Java. The burning of the mountain was seen 100 miles +away, while the thunders of its convulsions and the tremblings of +the earth reached the same distance. Seven hills, at whose base +ran a river--crowded with dead buffaloes, deer, apes, tigers, and +crocodiles--slipped down and became a level plain. River-courses +were changed, forests were burnt up, and the whole face of the +country was completely altered. + +Later volcanic eruptions in Java include that of 1843, when Mount +Guntur flung out sand and ashes estimated at the vast total of +thirty million tons, and those of 1849 and 1872 when Mount Merapi, +a very active volcano, covered a great extent of country with +stones and ashes, and ruined the coffee plantations of the +neighboring districts. + +We have said nothing concerning the most terrible explosion of all, +that of the volcanic island of Krakatoa, off the Javan coast. This +event was so phenomenal as to deserve a chapter of its own, for +which we reserve it. + +The United States, as one result of its recent acquisition of +island dominions, has added largely to its wealth in volcanic +mountains. The famous Hawaiian craters, far the greatest in the +world, now belong to our national estate, and the Philippine +Islands contain various others, of less importance, yet some of +which have proved very destructive. A description of those of the +Island of Luzon, which are the most active in the archipelago, is +here sub-joined. + + +THE LUZON VOLCANOES. + + +Volcanoes have played an important part in the formation of the +Philippine Islands and have left traces of their former activity in +all directions. Most of them, however, have long been dead and +silent, only a few of the once numerous group being now active. Of +these there are three of importance in the southern region of +Luzon--Taal, Bulusan and Mayon or Albay. + +The last named of these is the largest and most active of the +existing volcanoes. In form it is of marvellous grace and beauty, +forming a perfect cone, about fifty miles in circuit at base and +rising to a height of 8,900 feet. It is one of the most prominent +landmarks to navigators in the island. From its crater streams +upward a constant smoke, accompanied at times by flame, while from +its depths issue subterranean sounds, often heard at a distance of +many leagues. The whole surrounding country is marked by evidences +of old eruptions. + +This mountain, in 1767, sent up a cone of flame of forty feet in +diameter at base, for ten days, and for two months a wide stream of +lava poured from its crater. A month later there gushed forth +great floods of water, which filled the rivers to overflow, doing +widespread damage to the neighboring plantations. But its greatest +and most destructive eruption took place in 1812, the year of the +great eruption of the St. Vincent volcano. On this fatal occasion +several towns were destroyed and no less than 12,000 people lost +their lives. The debris flung forth from the crater were so +abundant that deposits deep enough to bury the tallest trees were +formed near the mountain. In 1867 another disastrous explosion +took place, and still another in 1888. A disaster different in +kind and cause occurred in 1876, when a terrible tropical storm +burst upon the mountain. The floods of rain swept from its sides +the loose volcanic material, and brought destruction to the +neighboring country, more than six thousand houses being ruined by +the rushing flood. + + +BULUSAN AND TAAL + + +Bulusan, a volcano on the southern extremity of the island, +resembles Vesuvius in shape. For many years it remained dormant, +but in 1852 smoke began to issue from its crater. In some respects +the most interesting of these three volcanoes is that of Taal, +which lies almost due south of Manila and about forty-five miles +distant, on a small island in the middle of a large lake, known as +Bombom or Bongbong. A remarkable feature of this volcanic mountain +is that it is probably the lowest in the world, its height being +only 850 feet above sea level. There are doubtful traditions that +Lake Bombom, a hundred square miles in extent, was formed by a +terrible eruption in 1700, by which a lofty mountain 8000 or 9000 +feet high, was destroyed. The vast deposits of porous tufa in the +surrounding country are certainly evidences of former great +eruptions from Mount Taal. + +The crater of this volcano is an immense, cup-shaped depression, a +mile or more in diameter and about 800 feet deep. When recently +visited by Professor Worcester, during his travels in these +islands, he found it to contain three boiling lakelets of +strangely-colored water, one being of a dirty brown hue, a second +intensely yellow in tint, and the third of a brilliant emerald +green. The mountain still steams and fumes, as if too actively at +work below to be at rest above. In past times it has shown the +forces at play in its depths by breaking at times into frightful +activity. Of the various explosions on record, the three most +violent were those of 1716, 1749, and 1754. In the last-named year +the earth for miles round quaked with the convulsive throes of the +deeply disturbed mountain, and vast quantities of volcanic dust +were hurled high into the air, sufficient to make it dark at midday +for many leagues around. The roofs of distant Manila were covered +with volcanic dust and ashes. Molten lava also poured from the +crater and flowed into the lake, which boiled with the intense +heat, while great showers of stones and ashes fell into its waters. + + +VOLCANOES IN THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS + + +Extinct volcanoes are numerous in Luzon, and there are smoking +cones in the north, and also in the Babuyanes Islands still farther +north. Volcanoes also exist in several of the other islands. On +Negros is the active peak of Malaspina, and on Camiguin, an island +about ninety miles to the southeast, a new volcano broke out in +1876. The large island of Mindanao has three volcanoes, of which +Cottabato was in eruption in 1856 and is still active at intervals. +Apo, the largest of the three, estimated to be 10,312 feet high, +has three summits, within which lies the great crater, now extinct +and filled with water. + +In evidence of former volcanic activity are the abundant deposits +of sulphur on the island of Leyte, the hot springs in various +localities, and the earthquakes which occasionally bring death and +destruction. Of the many of these on record, the most destructive +was in 1863, when 400 people were killed and 2,000 injured, while +many buildings were wrecked. Another in 1880 wrought great +destruction in Manila and elsewhere, though without loss of life. +An earthquake in Mindanao in 1675 opened a passage to the sea, and +a vast plain emerged. These convulsions of the earth affect the +form and elevation of buildings, which are rarely more than two +stories high and lightly built, while translucent sea-shells +replace glass in their windows. + +While Java is the most prolific in volcanoes of the islands of the +Malayan Archipelago, other islands of the group possess active +cones, including Sumatra, Bali, Amboyna, Banda and others. In +Sanguir, an island north of Celebes, is a volcanic mountain from +which there was a destructive eruption in 1856. The country was +devastated with lava, stones and volcanic ashes, ruining a wide +district and killing nearly 3,000 of the inhabitants. Mount +Madrian in one of the Spice Islands, was rent in twain by a fierce +eruption in 1646, and since then has remained two distinct +mountains. It became active again in 1862, after two centuries of +repose, and caused great loss of life and property. Sorea, a small +island of the same group, forming but a single volcanic mountain, +had an eruption in 1693, the cone crumbling gradually till a vast +crater was formed, filled with liquid lava and occupying nearly +half the island. This lake of fire increased in size by the same +process till in the end it took possession of the island and forced +all the inhabitants to flee to more hospitable shores. + + +THE GREAT ERUPTION OF TOMBORO + + +But of the East Indian Islands Sumbawa, lying east of Java, +contains the most formidable volcano--one indeed scarcely without a +rival in the world. This is named Tomboro. Of its various +eruptions the most furious on record was that of 1815. This, as we +are told by Sir Stamford Raffles, far exceeded in force and +duration any of the known outbreaks of Etna or Vesuvius. The +ground trembled and the echoes of its roar were heard through an +area of 1,000 miles around the volcano, and to a distance of 300 +miles its effects were astounding. + +In Java, 300 miles away, ashes filled the air so thickly that the +solar rays could not penetrate them, and fell to the depth of +several inches. The detonations were so similar to the reports of +artillery as to be mistaken for them. The Rajah of Sang'ir, who +was an eye-witness of the eruption, thus described it to Sir +Stamford: + +"About 7 P. M. on the 10th of April, three distinct columns of +flame burst forth near the top of the Tomboro mountain (all of them +apparently within the verge of the crater), and, after ascending +separately to a very great height, their tops united in the air in +a troubled, confused manner. In short time the whole mountain next +Sang'ir appeared like a body of liquid fire, extending itself in +every direction. The fire and columns of flame continued to rage +with unabated fury, until the darkness caused by the quantity of +falling matter obscured them, at about 8 P. M. Stones at this time +fell very thick at Sang'ir--some of them as large as two fists, but +generally not larger than walnuts. Between 9 and 10 P. M. ashes +began to fall, and soon after a violent whirlwind ensued, which +blew down nearly every house in the village of Sang'ir--carrying +the roofs and light parts away with it. In the port of Sang'ir, +adjoining Tomboro, its effects were much more violent--tearing up +by the roots the largest trees, and carrying them into the air, +together with men, horses, cattle, and whatever else came within +its influence. This will account for the immense number of +floating trees seen at sea. The sea rose nearly twelve feet higher +than it had ever been known to do before, and completely spoiled +the only spots of rice-land in Sang'ir--sweeping away houses and +everything within its reach. The whirlwind lasted about an hour. +No explosions were heard till the whirlwind had ceased, at about 11 +P.M. From midnight till the evening of the 11th, they continued +without intermission. After that time their violence moderated, +and they were heard only at intervals; but the explosions did not +cease entirely until the 15th of July. Of all the villages of +Tomboro, Tempo, containing about forty inhabitants, is the only one +remaining. In Pekate no vestige of a house is left; twenty-six of +the people, who were at Sumbawa at the time, are the whole of the +population who have escaped. From the most particular inquiries I +have been able to make, there were certainly no fewer than 12,000 +individuals in Tomboro and Pekate at the time of the eruption, of +whom only five or six survive. The trees and herbage of every +description, along the whole of the north and west sides of the +peninsula, have been completely destroyed, with the exception of +those on a high point of land, near the spot where the village of +Tomboro stood." + +Tomboro village was not only invaded by the sea on this occasion, +but its site permanently subsided; so that there is now eighteen +feet of water where there was formerly dry land. + + +THE VOLCANOES OF JAPAN + + +The Japanese archipelago, as stated in an earlier chapter, is +abundantly supplied with volcanoes, a number of them being active. +Of these the best known to travelers is Asamayama, a mountain 8,500 +feet high, of which there are several recorded eruptions. The +first of these was in 1650; after which the volcano remained feebly +active till 1783, when it broke out in a very severe eruption. In +1870 there was another of some severity, accompanied by violent +shocks of earthquake felt at Yokohama. The crater is very deep, +with irregular rocky walls of a sulphurous character. + +Far the most famous of all the Japanese mountains, however, is that +named Fuji-san, but commonly termed in English Fujiyama or +Fusiyama. It is in the vicinity of the capital, and is the most +prominent object in the landscape for many miles around. The apex +is shaped somewhat like an eight-petaled lotus flower, and offers +to view from different directions from three to five peaks. + +Though now apparently extinct, it was formerly an active volcano, +and is credited in history with several very disastrous eruptions. +The last of these was in 1707, at which time the whole summit burst +into flames. Rocks were split and shattered by the heat, and +stones fell to the depth of several inches in Yeddo (now Tokyo), +sixty miles away. At present there are in its crater, which has a +depth of 700 or 800 feet, neither sulphurous exhalations nor steam. +According to Japanese tradition this great peak was upheaved in a +single night from the bottom of the sea, more than twenty-one +hundred years ago. + +Nothing can be more majestic than this volcano, extinct though it +be, rising in an immense cone from the plain to the height of over +twelve thousand feet, truncated at the top, and with its peak +almost always snow-covered. Its ascent is not difficult to an +expert climber, and has frequently been made. From its summit is +unfolded a panorama beyond the power of words to describe, and +probably the most remarkable on the globe. Mountains, valleys, +lakes, forests and the villages of thirteen counties may be seen. +As we gaze upon its beautifully shaped and lofty mass, visible even +from Yokohama and a hundred miles at sea, one does not wonder that +it should be regarded as a holy mountain, and that it should form a +conspicuous object in every Japanese work of art. It is to the +natives of Japan as Mont Blanc is to Europeans, the "monarch of +mountains." + +In summer pilgrimages are made around the base of the summit +elevation, and there are on the upward path a number of Buddhist +temples and shrines, made of blocks of stone, for devotion, shelter +and the storage of food for pilgrims. Hakone Lake is three +thousand feet above the sea, and probably lies in the crater of an +extinct volcano. Its waters are very deep; it is several miles +long and wide, and is surrounded by high hills which abound in fine +scenery, solfataras and mineral springs. + + +HOT SPRINGS NEAR HAKONE LAKE + + +At this place the mountain seems to be smouldering, as sulphur +fumes and steam issue at many points, and the ground is covered +with a friable white alkaline substance. In many a hollow the +water bubbles with clouds of vapor and sulphuretted hydrogen; here +the soil is hot and evidently underlaid by active fires. It is not +safe to go very near, as the crust is thin and crumbling. The +water running down the hills has a refreshing sound and a tempting +clearness, but the thirsty tongue at once detects it to be a very +strong solution of alum. The whole aspect of the place is +infernal, and naturally suggests the name given its principal +geyser, O-gigoko (Big Hell). + +Fujiyama is almost a perfect cone, with, as above said, a truncated +top, in which is the crater. It is, however, less steep than +Mayon. Its upper part is comparatively steep, even to thirty-five +degrees, but below this portion the inclination gradually lessens, +till its elegant outlines are lost in the plain from which it +rises. The curves of the sides depend partly on the nature, size +and shape of the ejected material, the fine uniform pieces +remaining on comparatively steep slopes, while the larger and +rounder ones roll farther down, resting on the inclination that +afterward becomes curved from the subsidence of the central mass. + +The most recent and one of the most destructive of volcanic +eruptions recorded in Japan was that of Bandaisan or Baldaisan. +For ages this mountain had been peaceful, and there was scarcely an +indication of its volcanic character or of the terrific forces +which lay dormant deep within its heart. On its flanks lay some +small deposits of scoriae, indications of far-past eruptions, and +there were some hot springs at its base, while steam arose from a +fissure. Yet there was nothing to warn the people of the vicinity +that deadly peril lay under their feet. + + +BANDAISAN'S WORK OF TERROR + + +This sense of security was fatally dissipated on a day in July, +1888, when the mountain suddenly broke into eruption and flung +1,600 million cubic yards of its summit material so high into the +air that many of the falling fragments, in their fall, struck the +ground with such velocity as to be buried far out of sight. The +steam and dust were driven to a height of 13,000 feet, where they +spread into a canopy of much greater elevation, causing pitchy +darkness beneath. There were from fifteen to twenty violent +explosions, and a great landslide devastated about thirty square +miles and buried many villages in the Nagase Valley. + +Mr. Norman, a traveler who visited the spot shortly afterward, thus +describes the scene of ruin. After a journey through the forests +which clothed the slopes of the volcanic mountain and prevented any +distant view, the travelers at last found themselves "standing upon +the ragged edge of what was left of the mountain of Bandaisan, +after two-thirds of it, including, of course, the summit, had been +literally blown away and spread over the face of the country. + +"The original cone of the mountain," he continues, "had been +truncated at an acute angle to its axis. From our very feet a +precipitous mud slope falls away for half a mile or more till it +reaches the level. At our right, still below us, rises a mud wall +a mile long, also sloping down to the level, and behind it is +evidently the crater; but before us, for five miles in a straight +line, and on each side nearly as far, is a sea of congealed mud, +broken up into ripples and waves and great billows, and bearing +upon its bosom a thousand huge boulders, weighing hundreds of tons +apiece." + +On reaching the crater he found it to resemble a gigantic cauldron, +fully a mile in width, and enclosed with precipitous walls of +indurated mud. From several orifices volumes of steam rose into +the air, and when the vapor cleared away for a moment glimpses of a +mass of boiling mud were obtained. Before the eruption the +mountain top had terminated in three peaks. Of these the highest +had an elevation of about 5,800 feet. The peak destroyed was the +middle one, which was rather smaller than the other two. + +"The explosion was caused by steam; there was neither fire nor lava +of any kind. It was, in fact, nothing more nor less than a +gigantic boiler explosion. The whole top and one side of Sho- +Bandai-san had been blown into the air in a lateral direction, and +the earth of the mountain was converted by the escaping steam, at +the moment of the explosion, into boiling mud, part of which was +projected into the air to fall at a long distance, and then take +the form of an overflowing river, which rushed with vast rapidity +and covered the country to a depth of from 20 to 150 feet. Thirty +square miles of country were thus devastated." + +In the devastated lowlands and buried villages below and on the +slopes of the mountain many lives were lost. From the survivors +Mr. Norman gathered some information, enabling him to describe the +main features of the catastrophe. We append a brief outline of his +narrative: + + +MR. NORMAN'S NARRATIVE + + +"At a few minutes past 8 o'clock in the morning a frightful noise +was heard by the inhabitants of a village ten miles distant from +the crater. Some of them instinctively took to flight, but before +they could run much more than a hundred yards the light of day was +suddenly changed into a darkness more intense than that of +midnight; a shower of blinding hot ashes and sand poured down upon +them; the ground was shaken with earthquakes, and explosion +followed explosion, the last being the most violent of all. Many +fugitives, as well as people in the houses, were overwhelmed by the +deluge of mud, none of the fugitives, when overtaken by death, +being more than two hundred yards from the village." From the +statements made by those fortunate enough to escape with their +lives, and from a personal examination of the ground, Mr. Norman +inferred that the mud must have been flung fully six miles through +the air and then have poured in a torrent along the ground for four +miles further. All this was done in less than five minutes, so +that "millions of tons of boiling mud were hurled over the country +at the rate of two miles a minute." + +The velocity of the mud torrent may perhaps be overestimated, but +in its awful suddenness this catastrophe was evidently one with few +equals. The cone destroyed may have been largely composed of +rather fine ashes and scoriae, which was almost instantaneously +converted into mud by the condensing steam and the boiling water +ejected. The quantity of water thus discharged must have been +enormous. + +Of the remaining volcanic regions of the Pacific, the New Zealand +islands present some of the most striking examples of activity. +All the central parts, indeed, of the northern island of the group +are of a highly volcanic character. There is here a mountain named +Tongariro, on whose snow-clad summit is a deep crater, from which +volcanic vapors are seen to issue, and which exhibits other +indications of having been in a state of greater activity at a not +very remote period of time. There is also, at no great distance +from this mountain, a region containing numerous funnel-shaped +chasms, emitting hot water, or steam, or sulphurous vapors, or +boiling mud. The earthquakes in New Zealand had probably their +origin in this volcanic focus. + + +THE NEW ZEALAND VOLCANOES + + +Tongariro has a height of about 6,500 feet, while Egmont, 8,270 +feet in height, is a perfect cone with a perpetual cap of snow. +There are many other volcanic mountains, and also great numbers of +mud volcanoes, hot springs and geysers. It is for the latter that +the island is best known to geologists. Their waters are at or +near the boiling point and contain silica in abundance. + +At a place called Rotomahana, in the vicinity of Mount Tarawera, +there was formerly a lake of about one hundred and twenty acres in +area, which was in its way one of the most remarkable bodies of +water upon the earth. Formerly, we say, for this lake no longer +exists, it having been destroyed by the very forces to which it +owed its fame. Its waters were maintained nearly at the boiling +point by the continual accession of boiling water from numerous +springs. The most abundant of those sources was situated at the +height of about 100 feet above the level of the lake. It kept +continually filled an oval basin about 250 feet in circumference-- +the margins of which were fringed all round with beautiful pure +white stalactites, formed by deposits of silica, with which the hot +water was strongly impregnated. At various stages below the +principal spring were several others, that contributed to feed the +lake at the bottom, in the centre of which was a small island. +Minute bubbles continually escaped from the surface of the water +with a hissing sound, and the sand all round the lake was at a high +temperature. If a stick was thrust into it, very hot vapors would +ascend from the hole. Not far from this lake were several small +basins filled with tepid water, which was very clear, and of a blue +color. + +The conditions here were of a kind with those to which are due the +great geysers of Iceland and the Yellowstone Park, but different in +the fact that instead of being intermittent and throwing up jets at +intervals, the springs allowed the water to flow from them in a +continuous stream. + + +THE PINK AND WHITE TERRACES + + +The silicious incrustations left by the overflow from the large +pool had made a series of terraces, two to six feet high, with the +appearance of being hewn from white or pink marble; each of the +basins containing a similar azure water. These terraces covered an +area of about three acres, and looked like a series of cataracts +changed into stone, each edge being fringed with a festoon of +delicate stalactites. The water contained about eighty-five per +cent. of silica, with one or two per cent of iron alumina, and a +little alkali. + +There were no more beautiful products of nature upon the earth than +those "pink and white terraces," as they were called. The hot +springs of the Yellowstone have produced formations resembling +them, but not their equal in fairy-like charm. One series of these +terraced pools and cascades was of the purest white tint, the other +of the most delicate pink, the waters topping over the edge of each +pool and falling in a miniature cascade to the one next below, thus +keeping the edges built up by a continual renewal of the silicious +incrustation. But all their beauty could not save them from utter +and irremediable destruction by the forces below the earth's +surface. + +On June 9, 1886, a great volcanic disturbance began in the Auckland +Lake region with a tremendous earthquake, followed during the night +by many others. At seven the next morning a lead-covered cloud of +pumice sand, advancing from the south, burst and discharged showers +of fine dust. The range of Mount Tarawera seemed to be in full +volcanic activity, including some craters supposed to be extinct, +and embracing an area of one hundred and twenty miles by twenty. + +The showers of dust were so thick as to turn day into night for +nearly two days. Some lives were lost, and several villages were +destroyed, these being covered ten feet deep with ashes, dust and +clayey mud. The volcanic phenomena were of the most violent +character, and the whole island appears to have been more or less +convulsed. Mount Tarawera is said to be five hundred feet higher +than before the eruption; glowing masses were thrown up into the +air, and tongues of fiery hue, gases or illuminated vapors, five +hundred feet wide, towered up one thousand feet high. The mountain +was 2,700 feet in height. + + +TARAWERA IN ERUPTION + + +This eruption presented a spectacle of rarely-equalled grandeur. +To travelers and strangers the greatest resultant loss will be the +destruction of those world-famous curiosities, the white and pink +terraces, in the vicinity of Lake Rotomahana and the region of the +famous geysers. The natives have a superstition that the eruption +of the extinct Tarawera was caused by the profanation of foreign +footsteps. It was to them a sacred place, and its crater a +repository for their dead. The first earthquake occurred in this +region. One side of the mountain fell in, and then the eruption +began. The basin of the lake was broken up and disappeared, but +again reappeared as a boiling mud cauldron; craters burst out in +various places, and the beautiful terraces were no more. After the +first day the violence gradually diminished, and in a week had +ceased. Very possibly another lake will be formed, and in time +other terraces; but it is hardly within the range of probability +that the beauty of the lost terraces will ever be paralleled. + +In this eruption, as usual, we find the earthquake preceding the +volcanic outburst. New Zealand, like the Philippines, Java and the +Japanese Islands, is situated over a great earth-fissure or line of +weakness. Subsidence or dislocation from tensile strain of the +crust took place, and the influx of water to new regions of heated +strata may have developed the explosive force. The earthquake and +the volcano worked together here, as they frequently do, +unfortunately in this case destroying one of the most beautiful +scenes on the surface of the globe. + + +THE ANTARCTIC VOLCANOES + + +Much further south, on the frozen shore of Victoria Land in the +Antarctic regions, Sir James Ross, in 1841, sailing in his +discovery ships the Erebus and Terror, discovered two great +volcanic mountains, which he named after those two vessels. Mount +Erebus is continually covered, from top to bottom, with snow and +glaciers. The mountain is about 12,000 feet high, and although the +snow reaches to the very edge of the crater, there rise continually +from the summit immense volumes of volcanic fumes, illuminated by +the glare of glowing lava beneath them. The vapors ascend to an +estimated height of 2,200 feet above the top of the mountain. + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +The Wonderful Hawaiian Craters and Kilauea's Lake of Fire. + + +In the central region of the North Pacific Ocean lies the +archipelago formerly known as the Sandwich Islands, now +collectively designated as Hawaii. The people of the United States +should be specially interested in this island group, for it has +become one of our possessions, an outlying Territory of our growing +Republic, and in making it part of our national domain we have not +alone extended our dominion far over the seas, but have added to +the many marvels of nature within our land one of the chief wonders +of the world, the stupendous Hawaiian volcanoes, before whose +grandeur many of more ancient fame sink into insignificance. + + +THE ISLAND OF HAWAII + + +The Island of Hawaii, the principal island of the group, we may +safely say contains the most enormous volcano of the earth. +Indeed, the whole island, which is 4000 square miles in extent, may +be regarded as of volcanic origin. It contains four volcanic +mountains--Kohola, Hualalia, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. The two last +named are the chief, the former being 13,800 feet, the latter +13,600 feet, above the sea-level. Although their height is so +vast, the ascent to their summits is so gradual that their +circumference at the base is enormous. The bulk of each of them is +reckoned to be equal to two and a half times that of Etna. Some of +the streams of lava which have emanated from them are twenty-six +miles in length by two miles in breadth. + +On the adjoining island of Maui is a still larger volcano, the +mighty Haleakala, long since extinct, but memorable as possessing +the most stupendous crater on the face of the earth. The mountain +itself is over 10,000 feet high, and forms a great dome-like mass +of 90 miles circumference at base. The crater on its summit has a +length of 7 1/2 and a width of 2 1/4 miles, with a total area of +about sixteen square miles. The only approach in dimensions to +this enormous opening exists in the still living crater of Kilauea, +on the flank of Mauna Loa. + + +A VOLCANIC ISLAND GROUP + + +The peaks named are the most apparent remnants of a world-rending +volcanic activity in the remote past, by whose force this whole +Hawaiian island group was lifted up from the depths of the ocean, +here descending some three and a half miles below the surface +level. The coral reefs which abound around the islands are of +comparatively recent formation, and rest upon a substratum of lava +probably ages older, which forms the base of the archipelago. The +islands are volcanic peaks and ridges that have been pushed up +above the surrounding seas by the profound action of the interior +forces of the earth. + +It must not be supposed that this action was a violent +perpendicular thrust upward over a very limited locality, for the +mountains continue to slope at about the same angle under the sea +and for great distances on every side, so that the islands are +really the crests of an extensive elevation, estimated to cover an +area of about 2000 miles in one direction by 150 or 200 miles in +the other. The process was probably a gradual one of up-building, +by means of which the sea receded as the land steadily rose. Some +idea of the mighty forces that have been at work beneath the sea +and above it can be gained by considering the enormous mass of +material now above the sea-level. Thus, the bulk of the island of +Hawaii, the largest of the group, has been estimated by the +Hawaiian Surveyor General as containing 3,600 cubic miles of lava +rock above sea-level. Taking the area of England at 50,000 square +miles, this mass of volcanic matter would cover that entire country +to a depth of 274 feet. We must remember, however, that what is +above sea-level is only a small fraction of the total amount, since +it sweeps down below the waves hundreds of miles on every side. + + +CRATER OF HALEAKALA + + +Of the lava openings on these islands, the extinct one of +Haleakala, as stated, with its twenty-seven miles circumference, is +far the most stupendous. It is easy of access, the mountain sides +leading to it presenting a gentle slope; while the walls of the +crater, in places perpendicular, in others are so sloping that man +and horse can descend them. The pit varies from 1500 to 2000 feet +in depth, its bottom being very irregular from the old lava flows +and the many cinder cones, these still looking as fresh as though +their fires had just gone out. Some of these cones are over 500 +feet high. There is a tradition among the natives that the vast +lava streams which in the past flowed from the crater to the sea +continued to do so in the period of their remote ancestors. They +still, indeed, appear as if recent, though there are to-day no +signs of volcanic activity anywhere on this island. + +In fact, the only volcano now active in the Hawaiian Islands is +Mauna Loa, in the southern section of the Island of Hawaii. A +striking feature of this is that it has two distinct and widely +disconnected craters, one on its summit, the other on its flank, at +a much lower level. The latter is the vast crater of Kilauea, the +largest active crater known on the face of the globe. + + +MISS BIRD IN THE CRATER OF KILAUEA + + +We cannot offer a better description of the aspect of this lava +abyss than to give Miss Bird's eloquent description of her +adventurous descent into it: + +"The abyss, which really is at a height of four thousand feet on +the flank of Mauna Loa, has the appearance of a pit on a rolling +plain. But such a pit! It is quite nine miles in circumference, +and at its lowest area--which not long ago fell about three hundred +feet, just as the ice on a pond falls when the water below is +withdrawn--covers six square miles. The depth of the crater varies +from eight hundred to one thousand feet, according as the molten +sea below is at flood or ebb. Signs of volcanic activity are +present more or less throughout its whole depth and for some +distance along its margin, in the form of steam-cracks, jets of +sulphurous vapor, blowing cones, accumulating deposits of acicular +crystals of sulphur, etc., and the pit itself is constantly rent +and shaken by earthquakes. Great eruptions occur with +circumstances of indescribable terror and dignity; but Kilauea does +not limit its activity to these outbursts, but has exhibited its +marvellous phenomena through all known time in a lake or lakes on +the southern part of the crater three miles from this side. + +"This lake--the Hale-mau-mau, or "House of everlasting Fire", of +the Hawaiian mythology, the abode of the dreaded goddess Pele--is +approachable with safety, except during an eruption. The +spectacle, however, varies almost daily; and at times the level of +the lava in the pit within a pit is so low, and the suffocating +gases are evolved in such enormous quantities, that travellers are +unable to see anything. + +"At the time of our visit there had been no news from it for a +week; and as nothing was to be seen but a very faint bluish vapor +hanging round its margin, the prospect was not encouraging. After +more than an hour of very difficult climbing, we reached the lowest +level of the crater, pretty nearly a mile across, presenting from +above the appearance of a sea at rest; but on crossing it, we found +it to be an expanse of waves and convolutions of ashy-colored lava, +with huge cracks filled up with black iridescent rolls of lava only +a few weeks old. Parts of it are very rough and ridgy, jammed +together like field-ice, or compacted by rolls of lava, which may +have swelled up from beneath; but the largest part of the area +presents the appearance of huge coiled hawsers, the ropy formation +of the lava rendering the illusion almost perfect. These are riven +by deep cracks, which emit hot sulphurous vapors. + +"As we ascended, the flow became hotter under our feet, as well as +more porous and glistening. It was so hot that a shower of rain +hissed as it fell upon it. The crust became increasingly insecure, +and necessitated our walking in single file with the guide in +front, to test the security of the footing. I fell through several +times, and always into holes full of sulphurous steam so +malignantly acid that my strong dogskin gloves were burned through +as I raised myself on my hands. + +"We had followed the lava-flow for thirty miles up to the crater's +brink, and now we had toiled over recent lava for three hours, and, +by all calculations, were close to the pit; yet there was no smoke +or sign of fire, and I felt sure that the volcano had died out for +once for my special disappointment. + +"Suddenly, just above and in front of us, gory drops were tossed in +the air, and springing forwards, we stood on the brink of Hale-mau- +mau, which was about thirty-five feet below us. I think we all +screamed. I know we all wept; but we were speechless, for a new +glory and terror had been added to the earth. It is the most +unutterable of wonderful things. The words of common speech are +quite useless. It is unimaginable, indescribable; a sight to +remember forever; a sight which at once took possession of every +faculty of sense and soul, removing one altogether out of the range +of ordinary life. Here was the real 'bottomless pit', 'the fire +which is not quenched', 'the place of Hell', 'the lake which +burneth with fire and brimstone', 'the everlasting burnings', 'the +fiery sea whose waves are never weary'. Perhaps those Scripture +phrases were suggested by the sight of some volcano in eruption. +There were groanings, rumblings, and detonations; rushings, +hissings, splashings, and the crashing sound of breakers on the +coast; but it was the surging of fiery waves upon a fiery shore. +But what can I write? Such words as jets, fountains, waves, spray, +convey some idea of order and regularity, but here there are none. + +"The inner lake, while we stood there, formed a sort of crater +within itself; the whole lava sea rose about three feet; a blowing +cone about eight feet high was formed; it was never the same two +minutes together. And what we saw had no existence a month before, +and probably will be changed in every essential feature a month +from hence. The prominent object was fire in motion; but the +surface of the double lake was continually skimming over for a +second or two with a cool crust of lustrous grey-white, like frost- +silver, broken by jagged cracks of a bright rose-color. The +movement was nearly always from the sides to the centre; but the +movement of the centre itself appeared independent, and always took +a southerly direction. Before each outburst of agitation there was +much hissing and throbbing, with internal roaring as of imprisoned +gases. Now it seemed furious, demoniacal, as if no power on earth +could bind it, then playful and sportive; then for a second +languid, but only because it was accumulating fresh force. +Sometimes the whole lake took the form of mighty waves, and, +surging heavily against the partial barrier with a sound like the +Pacific surf, lashed, tore, covered it, and threw itself over it in +clots of living fire. It was all confusion, commotion, forces, +terror, glory, majesty, mystery, and even beauty. And the color, +'eye hath not seen' it! Molten metal hath not that crimson gleam, +nor blood that living light." + +To this description we may add that of Mr. Ellis, a former +missionary to these islands, and one of the number who have +descended to the shores of Kilauea's abyss of fire. He says, after +describing his difficult descent and progress over the lava-strewn +pit: + + +MR. ELLIS VISITS THE LAKE OF LAVA + + +"Immediately before us yawned an immense gulf, in the form of a +crescent, about two miles in length, from northeast to southwest; +nearly a mile in width, and apparently 800 feet deep. The bottom +was covered with lava, and the southwestern and northern parts of +it were one vast flood of burning matter in a state of terrific +ebullition, rolling to and fro its 'fiery surges' and flaming +billows. Fifty-one conical islands, of varied form and size, +containing as many craters, rose either round the edge or from the +surface of the burning lake; twenty-two constantly emitted columns +of gray smoke or pyramids of brilliant flame, and several of these +at the same time vomited from their ignited mouths streams of lava, +which rolled in blazing torrents down their black indented sides +into the boiling mass below. + +"The existence of these conical craters led us to conclude that the +boiling cauldron of lava before us did not form the focus of the +volcano; that this mass of melted lava was comparatively shallow, +and that the basin in which it was contained was separated by a +stratum of solid matter from the great volcanic abyss, which +constantly poured out its melted contents through these numerous +craters into this upper reservoir. The sides of the gulf before +us, although composed of different strata of ancient lava, were +perpendicular for about 400 feet, and rose from a wide horizontal +ledge of solid black lava of irregular breadth, but extending +completely round. Beneath this ledge the sides sloped gradually +towards the burning lake, which was, as nearly as we could judge, +300 or 400 feet lower. + +"It was evident that the large crater had been recently filled with +liquid lava up to this black ledge, and had, by some subterraneous +canal, emptied itself into the sea or spread under the low land on +the shore. The gray and in some places apparently calcined sides +of the great crater before us, the fissures which intersected the +surface of the plain on which we were standing, the long banks of +sulphur on the opposite side of the abyss, the vigorous action of +the numerous small craters on its borders, the dense columns of +vapor and smoke that rose at the north and west end of the plain, +together with the ridge of steep rocks by which it was surrounded, +rising probably in some places 300 or 400 feet in perpendicular +height, presented an immense volcanic panorama, the effect of which +was greatly augmented by the constant roaring of the vast furnaces +below." + + +MAUNA LOA IN ERUPTION + + +Of the two great craters of Mauna Loa, the summit one has +frequently in modern times overflowed its crest and poured its +molten streams in glowing rivers over the land. This has rarely +been the case with the lower and incessantly active crater of +Kilauea, whose lava, when in excess, appears to escape by +subterranean channels to the sea. We append descriptions of some +of the more recent examples of Mauna Loa's eruptive energy. The +lava from this crater does not alone flow over the crater's lip, +but at times makes its way through fissures far below, the immense +pressure causing it to spout in great flashing fountains high into +the air. In 1852 the fiery fountains reached a height of 500 feet. +In some later eruptions they have leaped 1,000 feet high. The lava +is white hot as it ascends, but it assumes a blood-red tint in its +fall, and strikes the ground with a frightful noise. + +The quantities of lava ejected in some of the recent eruptions have +been enormous. The river-like flow of 1855 was remarkable for its +extent, being from two to eight miles wide, with a depth of from +three to three hundred feet, and extending in a winding course for +a distance of sixty miles. The Apostle of Hawaiian volcanoes, the +Rev. Titus Coan, who ventured to the source of this flow while it +was in supreme action, thus describes it:-- + +"We ascended our rugged pathway amidst steam and smoke and heat +which almost blinded and scathed us. We came to open orifices down +which we looked into the fiery river which rushed madly under our +feet. These fiery vents were frequent, some of them measuring ten, +twenty, fifty or one hundred feet in diameter. In one place we saw +the river of lava uncovered for thirty rods and rushing down a +declivity of from ten to twenty-five degrees. The scene was awful, +the momentum incredible, the fusion perfect (white heat), and the +velocity forty miles an hour. The banks on each side of the stream +were red-hot, jagged and overhanging. As we viewed it rushing out +from under its ebon counterpane, and in the twinkling of an eye +diving again into its fiery den, it seemed to say, 'Stand off! +Scan me not! I am God's messenger. A work to do. Away!'" + +Later he wrote again:--"The great summit fountain is still playing +with fearful energy, and the devouring stream rushes madly down +toward us. It is now about ten miles distant, and heading directly +for our bay. In a few days we may be called to announce the +painful fact that our beauteous Hilo is no more,--that our lovely, +our inimitable landscape, our emerald bowers, our crescent strand +and our silver bay are blotted out. A fiery sword hangs over us. +A flood of burning ruin approaches us. Devouring fires are near +us. With sure and solemn progress the glowing fusion advances +through the dark forest and the dense jungle in our rear, cutting +down ancient trees of enormous growth and sweeping away all +vegetable life. For months the great summit furnace on Mauna Loa +has been in awful blast. Floods of burning destruction have swept +wildly and widely over the top and down the sides of the mountain. +The wrathful stream has overcome every obstacle, winding its fiery +way from its high source to the bases of the everlasting hills, +spreading in a molten sea over the plains, penetrating the ancient +forests, driving the bellowing herds, the wild goats and the +affrighted birds before its lurid glare, leaving nothing but ebon +blackness and smoldering ruin in its track." + +His anticipation of the burial of Hilo under the mighty flow was +happily not realized. It came to an abrupt halt while seven miles +distant, the checked stream standing in a threatening and rugged +ridge, with rigid, beetling front. + + +THE ERUPTIONS OF 1859 AND 1865 + + +In January, 1859, Mauna Loa was again at its fire-play, throwing up +lava fountains from 800 to 1,000 feet in height. From this great +fiery fountain the lava flowed down in numerous streams, spreading +over a width of five or six miles. One stream, probably formed by +the junction of several smaller, attained a height of from twenty +to twenty-five feet, and a breadth of about an eighth of a mile. +Great stones were thrown up along with the jet of lava, and the +volume of seeming smoke, composed probably of fine volcanic dust, +is said to have risen to the height of 10,000 feet. + +An eruption of still greater violence took place in 1865, +characterized by similar phenomena, particularly the throwing up of +jets of lava. This fiery fountain continued to play without +intermission for twenty days and nights, varying only as respects +the height to which the jet arose, which is said to have ranged +between 100 and 1,000 feet, the mean diameter of the jet being +about 100 feet. This eruption was accompanied by explosions so +loud as to have been heard at a distance of forty miles. + +A cone of about 300 feet in height, and about a mile in +circumference, was accumulated round the orifice whence the jet +ascended. It was composed of solid matters ejected with the lava, +and it continued to glow like a furnace, notwithstanding its +exposure to the air. The current of lava on this occasion flowed +to a distance of thirty-five miles, burning its way through the +forests, and filling the air with smoke and flames from the ignited +timber. The glare from the glowing lava and the burning trees +together was discernible by night at a distance of 200 miles from +the island. + + +THE LAVA FLOW OF 1880 + + +A succeeding great lava flow was that which began on November 6, +1880. Mr. David Hitchcock, who was camping on Mauna Kea at the +time of this outbreak, saw a spectacle that few human eyes have +ever beheld. "We stood," writes he, "on the very edge of that +flowing river of rock. Oh, what a sight it was! Not twenty feet +from us was this immense bed of rock slowly moving forward with +irresistible force, bearing on its surface huge rocks and immense +boulders of tons' weight as water would carry a toy-boat. The +whole front edge was one bright red mass of solid rock incessantly +breaking off from the towering mass and rolling down to the foot of +it, to be again covered by another avalanche of white-hot rocks and +sand. The whole mass at its front edge was from twelve to thirty +feet in height. Along the entire line of its advance it was one +crash of rolling, sliding, tumbling red-hot rock. We could hear no +explosions while we were near the flow, only a tremendous roaring +like ten thousand blast furnaces all at work at once." + +This was the most extensive flow of recent years, and its progress +from the interior plain through the dense forests above Hilo and +out on to the open levels close to the town was startling and +menacing enough. Through the woods especially it was a turbulent, +seething mass that hurled down mammoth trees, and licked up streams +of water, and day and night kept up an unintermitting cannonade of +explosions. The steam and imprisoned gases would burst the +congealing surface with loud detonations that could be heard for +many miles. It was not an infrequent thing for parties to camp out +close to the flow over night. Ordinarily a lava-flow moves +sluggishly and congeals rapidly, so that what seems like hardihood +in the narrating is in reality calm judgment, for it is perfectly +safe to be in the close vicinity of a lava-stream, and even to walk +on its surface as soon as one would be inclined to walk on cooling +iron in a foundry. This notable flow finally ceased within half a +mile of Hilo, where its black form is a perpetual reminder of a +marvellous deliverance from destruction. + + +KILAUEA IN 1840 + + +Kilauea seems never, in historic times, to have filled and +overflowed its vast crater. To do so would need an almost +inconceivable volume of liquid rock material. But it approached +this culmination in 1840, when it became, through its whole extent, +a raging sea of fire. The boiling lava rose in the mighty +mountain-cup to a height of from 500 to 600 feet. Then it forced a +passage through a subterranean cavity twenty-seven miles long, and +reached the sea forty miles distant, in two days. The stream where +it fell into the sea was half a mile wide, and the flow kept up for +three weeks, heating the ocean twenty miles from land. An eye- +witness of this extraordinary flow thus describes it: + +"When the torrent of fire precipitated itself into the ocean, the +scene assumed a character of terrific and indescribable grandeur. +The magnificence of destruction was never more perceptibly +displayed than when these antagonistic elements met in deadly +strife. The mightiest of earth's magazines of fire poured forth +its burning billows to meet the mightiest of oceans. For two score +miles it came rolling, tumbling, swelling forward, an awful agent +of death. Rocks melted like wax in its path; forests crackled and +blazed before its fervent heat; the works of man were to it but as +a scroll in the flames. Imagine Niagara's stream, above the brink +of the Falls, with its dashing, whirling, madly-raging waters +hurrying on to their plunge, instantaneously converted into fire; a +gory-hued river of fused minerals; volumes of hissing steam +arising; some curling upward from ten thousand vents, which give +utterance to as many deep-toned mutterings, and sullen, confined +clamorings; gases detonating and shrieking as they burst from their +hot prison-house; the heavens lurid with flame; the atmosphere dark +and oppressive; the horizon murky with vapors and gleaming with the +reflected contest! + +"Such was the scene as the fiery cataract, leaping a precipice of +fifty feet, poured its flood upon the ocean. The old line of +coast, a mass of compact, indurated lava, whitened, cracked and +fell. The waters recoiled, and sent forth a tempest of spray; they +foamed and dashed around and over the melted rock, they boiled with +the heat, and the roar of the conflicting agencies grew fiercer and +louder. The reports of the exploding gases were distinctly heard +twenty-five miles distant, and were likened to a whole broadside of +heavy artillery. Streaks of the intensest light glanced like +lightning in all directions; the outskirts of the burning lava as +it fell, cooled by the shock, were shivered into millions of +fragments, and scattered by the strong wind in sparkling showers +far into the country. For three successive weeks the volcano +disgorged an uninterrupted burning tide, with scarcely any +diminution, into the ocean. On either side, for twenty miles, the +sea became heated, with such rapidity that, on the second day of +the junction of the lava with the ocean, fishes came ashore dead in +great numbers, at a point fifteen miles distant. Six weeks later, +at the base of the hills, the water continued scalding hot, and +sent forth steam at every wash of the waves." + + +THE SINKING OF KILAUEA'S FIRE-LAKE + + +In 1866 the great crater of Kilauea presented a new and unlooked- +for spectacle in the sinking and vanishing of its great lava lake. +In March of that year the fires in the ancient cauldron totally +disappeared, and the surrounding lava rock sank to a depth of +nearly 600 feet. Mr. Thrum, in a pamphlet on "The Suspended +Activity of Kilauea," says of it: + +"Distant rumbling noises were heard, accompanied by a series of +earthquakes, forty-three in number. With the fourth shock the +brilliancy of New Lake disappeared, and towards 3 A. M. the fires +in Halemaumau disappeared also, leaving the whole crater in +darkness. + +"With the dawn the shocks and noises ceased, and revealed the +changes which Kilauea had undergone in the night. All the high +cliffs surrounding Halemaumau and New Lake, which had become a +prominent feature in the crater, had vanished entirely, and the +molten lava of both lakes had disappeared by some subterranean +passage from the bottom of Halemaumau. There was no material +change in the sunken portion of the crater except a continual +falling in of rocks and debris from its banks as the contraction +from its former intense heat loosened their compactness and sent +them hurling some 200 or 300 feet below, giving forth at times a +boom as of distant thunder, followed by clouds of cinders and ashes +shooting up into the air 100 to 300 feet, proportionate, doubtless, +to the size of the newly fallen mass. + +This remarkable recession of the liquid lava in Halemaumau was +probably due to the opening of some deep subterranean passage +through which the lake of lava made its way unseen to the ocean's +depths. The Rev. Mr. Baker, probably the most adventuresome +explorer of Hawaiian volcanoes, actually descended into that +crumbling pit to a point within what he judged to be fifty feet of +the bottom. But Halemaumau had only taken an intermission, for in +two short months signs of returning life became frequent and +unmistakable, and, in June, culminated in the sudden outbreak of a +lake that has since then steadily increased in activity. + + +THE GODDESS PELE + + +We cannot close this chapter without some reference to the Goddess +Pele, to whom the Hawaiians long imputed the wonder-work of their +volcanic mountains. When there is unusual commotion in Kilauea +myriads of thread-like filaments float in the air and fall upon the +cliffs, making deposits much resembling matted hair. A single +filament over fifteen inches long was picked up on a Hilo veranda, +having sailed in the air a distance of fifty miles. This is the +famous Pele's Hair, being the glass-like product of volcanic fires. +It resembles Prince Rupert's Drops, and the tradition is that +whenever the volcano becomes active it is because Pele, the Goddess +of the crater, emerges from her fiery furnace and shakes her +vitreous locks in anger. + +This fabled being, according to Emerson, in a paper on "The Lesser +Hawaiian Gods," "could at times assume the appearance of a handsome +young woman, as when Kamapauaa, to his cost, was smitten with her +charms when first he saw her with her sisters at Kilauea." +Kamapauaa was a gigantic hog, who "could appear as a handsome young +man, a hog, a fish or a tree." "At other times the innate +character of the fury showed itself, and Pele appeared in her usual +form as an ugly and hateful old hag, with tattered and fire-burnt +garments, scarcely concealing the filth and nakedness of her +person. Her bloodshot eyes and fiendish countenance paralized the +beholder, and her touch turned him to stone. She was a jealous and +vindictive monster, delighting in cruelty, and at the slightest +provocation overwhelming the unoffending victims of her rage in +widespread ruin." + +The superstition regarding the Goddess Pele was thought to have +received a death blow in 1825, when Kapiolani, an Hawaiian princess +and a Christian convert, ascended, with numerous attendants, to the +crater of Kilauea, where she publicly defied the power and wrath of +the goddess. No response came to her defiance, she descended in +safety, and faith in Pele's power was widely shaken. + +Yet as late as 1887 the old superstition revived and claimed an +exalted victim, for in that year the Princess Like Like, the +youngest sister of the king, starved herself to death to appease +the anger of the Goddess Pele, supposed to be manifested in Mauna +Loa's eruption of that year, and to be quieted only by the +sacrifice of a victim of royal blood. Thus slowly do the old +superstitions die away. + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +Popocatapetl and Other Volcanoes of Mexico and Central America. + + +Mexico is very largely a vast table-land, rising through much of +its extent to an elevation of from 7,000 to 8,000 feet above sea- +level, and bounded east and west by wide strips of torrid lowlands +adjoining the oceans. It is crossed at about 19 degrees north +latitude by a range of volcanic mountains, running in almost a +straight line east and west, upon which are several extinct +volcanic cones, and five active or quiescent volcanoes. The +highest of these is Popocatapetl, south of the city of Mexico and +nearly midway between the Atlantic and Pacific. + +East of this mountain lies Orizabo, little below it in height, and +San Martin or Tuxtla, 9,700 feet high, on the coast south of Vera +Cruz. West of it is Jorullo, 4,000 feet, and Colima, 12,800, near +the Pacific coast. The volcanic energy continues southward toward +the Isthmus, but decreases north of this volcanic range. These +mountains have shown little signs of activity in recent times. +Popocatapetl emits smoke, but there is no record of an eruption +since 1540. Orizabo has been quiet since 1566. Tuxtla had a +violent eruption in 1793, but since then has remained quiescent. +Colima is the only one now active. For ten years past it has been +emitting ashes and smoke. The most remarkable of these volcanoes +is Jorullo, which closely resembled Monte Nuovo, described in +Chapter XIII., in its mode of origin. + +Popocatapetl, the hill that smokes, in the Mexican language, the +huge mountain clothed in eternal snows, and regarded by the +idolaters of old as a god, towers up nearly 18,000 feet above the +level of the sea, and in the days of the conquest of Mexico was a +volcano in a state of fierce activity. It was looked upon by the +natives with a strange dread, and they told the white strangers +with awe that no man could attempt to ascend its slopes and yet +live; but, from a feeling of vanity, or the love of adventure, the +Spaniards laughed at these fears, and accordingly a party of ten of +the followers of Cortes commenced the ascent, accompanied by a few +Indians. But these latter, after ascending about 13,000 feet to +where the last remains of stunted vegetation existed, became +alarmed at the subterranean bellowings of the volcano, and +returned, while the Spaniards still painfully toiled on through the +rarefied atmosphere, their feet crushing over the scoriae and +black-glazed volcanic sand, until they stood in the region of +perpetual snow, amidst the glittering, treacherous glaciers and +crevasses, with vast slippery-pathed precipices yawning round. + +Still they toiled on in this wild and wondrous region. A few hours +before they were in a land of perpetual summer; here all was snow. +They suffered the usual distress awarded to those who dare to +ascend to these solitudes of nature but it was not given to them to +achieve the summit, for suddenly, at a higher elevation, after +listening to various ominous threatenings from the interior of the +volcano, they encountered so fierce a storm of smoke, cinders, and +sparks, that they were driven back half suffocated to the lower +portions of the mountain. + +Some time after another attempt was made; and upon this occasion +with a definite object. The invaders had nearly exhausted their +stock of gunpowder, and Cortes organized a party to ascend to the +crater of the volcano, to seek and bring down sulphur for the +manufacture of this necessary of warfare. This time the party +numbered but five, led by one Francisco Montano; and they +experienced no very great difficulty in winning their way upwards. +The region of verdure gave place to the wild, lava-strewn slope, +which was succeeded in its turn by the treacherous glaciers; and at +last the gallant little band stood at the very edge of the crater, +a vast depression of over a league in circumference, and 1,000 feet +in depth. + + +SULPHUR FROM THE CRATER + + +Flame was issuing from the hideous abysses, and the stoutest man's +heart must have quailed as he peered down into the dim, mysterious +cavity to where the sloping sides were crusted with bright yellow +sulphur, and listened to the mutterings which warned him of the +pent-up wrath and power of the mighty volcano. They knew that at +any moment flame and stifling sulphurous vapor might be belched +forth, but now no cowardice was shown. They had come provided with +ropes and baskets, and it only remained to see who should descend. +Lots were therefore drawn, and it fell to Montano, who was +accordingly lowered by his followers in a basket 400 feet into the +treacherous region of eternal fires. + +The basket swayed and the rope quivered and vibrated, but the brave +cavalier sturdily held to his task, disdaining to show fear before +his humble companions. The lurid light from beneath flashed upon +his tanned features, and a sulphurous steam rose slowly and +condensed upon the sides; but, whatever were his thoughts, the +Spaniard collected as much sulphur as he could take up with him, +breaking off the bright incrustations, and even dallying with his +task as if in contempt of the danger, till he had leisurely filed +his basket, when the signal was given and he was drawn up. The +basket was emptied, and then he once more descended into the lurid +crater, collected another store and was again drawn up; but far +from shrinking from his task, he descended again several times, +till a sufficiency had been obtained, with which the party +descended to the plain. + + +THE VOLCANO JORULLO + + +No further back than the middle of the eighteenth century the site +of Jorullo was a level plain, including several highly-cultivated +fields, which formed the farm of Don Pedro di Jorullo. The plain +was watered by two small rivers, called Cuitimba and San Pedro, and +was bounded by mountains composed of basalt--the only indications +of former volcanic action. These fields were well irrigated, and +among the most fertile in the country, producing abundant crops of +sugar-cane and indigo. + +In the month of June, 1759, the cultivators of the farm began to be +disturbed by strange subterranean noises of an alarming kind, +accompanied by frequent shocks of earthquake, which continued for +nearly a couple of months; but they afterward entirely ceased, so +that the inhabitants of the place were lulled into security. On +the night between the 28th and 29th of September, however, the +subterranean noises were renewed with greater loudness than before, +and the ground shook severely. The Indian servants living on the +place started from their beds in terror, and fled to the +neighboring mountains. Thence gazing upon their master's farm they +beheld it, along with a tract of ground measuring between three and +four square miles, in the midst of which it stood, rise up bodily, +as if it had been inflated from beneath like a bladder. At the +edges this tract was uplifted only about 39 feet above the original +surface, but so great was its convexity that toward the middle it +attained a height of no less than 524 feet. + +The Indians who beheld this strange phenomenon declared that they +saw flames issuing from several parts of this elevated tract, that +the entire surface became agitated like a stormy sea, that great +clouds of ashes, illuminated by volcanic fires glowing beneath +them, rose at several points, and that white-hot stones were thrown +to an immense height. Vast chasms were at the same time opened in +the ground, and into these the two small rivers above mentioned +plunged. Their waters, instead of extinguishing the subterranean +conflagration, seemed only to add to its intensity. Quantities of +mud, enveloping balls of basalt, were then thrown up, and the +surface of the elevated ground became studded with small cones, +from which volumes of dense vapor, chiefly steam, were emitted, +some of the jets rising from 20 to 30 feet in height. + +These cones the Indians called ovens, and in many of them was long +heard a subterranean noise resembling that of water briskly +boiling. Out of a great chasm in the midst of those ovens there +were thrown up six larger elevations, the highest being 1,640 feet +above the level of the plain, 4,315 above sea level, and now +constituting the principal volcano of Jorullo. The smallest of the +six was 300 feet in height; the others of intermediate elevation. +The highest of these hills had on its summit a regular volcanic +crater, whence there have been thrown up great quantities of dross +and lava, containing fragments of older rocks. The ashes were +transported to immense distances, some of them having fallen on the +houses at Queretaro, more than forty-eight leagues from Jorullo. +The volcano continued in this energetic state of activity for about +four months; in the following years its eruptions became less +frequent, but it still continues to emit volumes of vapor from the +principal crater, as well as from many of the ovens in the upheaved +ground. + + +EFFECT ON THE RIVERS + + +The two rivers, which disappeared on the first night of this great +eruption, now pursue an underground course for about a mile and a +quarter, and then reappear as hot springs, with a temperature of +126 degrees F. + +This wonderful volcanic upheaval is all the more remarkable, from +the inland situation of the plain on which it occurred, it being no +less than 120 miles distant from the nearest ocean, while there is +no other volcano nearer to it than 80 miles. The activity of the +ovens has now ceased, and portions of the upheaved plain on which +they are situated have again been brought under cultivation, and +the volcano is in a state of quiescence. + +The crater of Popocatapetl, which towers to a height of 17,000 +feet, is a vast circular basin, whose nearly vertical walls are in +some parts of a pale rose tint, in others quite black. The bottom +contains several small fuming cones, whence arise vapors of +changeable color, being successively red, yellow and white. All +round them are large deposits of sulphur, which are worked for +mercantile purposes. + +Orizaba has a little less lofty snow-clad peak. This mountain was +in brisk volcanic activity from 1545 to 1560, but has since then +relapsed into a prolonged repose. It was climbed, in 1856, by +Baron Muller, to whose mind the crater appeared like the entrance +to a lower world of horrible darkness. He was struck with +astonishment on contemplating the tremendous forces required to +elevate and rend such enormous masses--to melt them, and then pile +them up like towers, until by cooling they became consolidated into +their present forms. The internal walls of the crater are in many +places coated with sulphur, and at the bottom are several small +volcanic craters. At the time of his visit the summit was wholly +covered with snow, but the Indians affirmed that hot vapors +occasionally ascend from fissures in the rocks. Since then others +have reached its summit, among them Angelo Heilprin, the first to +gaze into the crater of Mont Pelee after its eruption. + + +ERUPTIONS IN NICARAGUA + + +On the 14th of November, 1867, there commenced an eruption from a +mountain about eight leagues to the eastward of the city of Leon, +in Nicaragua. This mountain does not appear to have been +previously recognized as an active volcano, but it is situated in a +very volcanic country. The outburst had probably some connection +with the earthquake at St. Thomas, which took place on the 18th of +November following. The mountain continued in a state of activity +for about sixteen days. There was thrown out an immense quantity +of black sand, which was carried as far as to the coast of the +Pacific, fifty miles distant. Glowing stones were projected from +the crater to an estimated height of three thousand feet. + +Central America is more prolific of volcanoes than Mexico, and the +State of Guatemala in particular. One authority credits this State +with fifteen or sixteen and another with more than thirty volcanic +cones. Of these at least five are decidedly active. Tajumalco, +which was in eruption at the time of the great earthquake of 1863, +yields great quantities of sulphur, as also does Quesaltenango. +The most famous is the Volcan de Agua (Water Volcano), so called +from its overwhelming the old city of Guatemala with a torrent of +water in 1541. + +Nicaragua is also rich in volcanoes, being traversed its entire +length by a remarkable chain of isolated volcanic cones, several of +which are to some extent active. We have already told the story of +the tremendous eruption of Coseguina in 1835, one of the most +violent of modern times. The latest important eruption here was +that of Ometepec, a volcanic mount on an island of the same name in +Lake Nicaragua. This broke a long period of repose on June 19, +1883, with a severe eruption, in which the lava, pouring from a new +crater, in seven days overflowed the whole island and drove off its +population. Incessant rumblings and earthquake shocks accompanied +the eruption, and mud, ashes, stones and lava covered the mountain +slopes, which had been cultivated for many centuries. These were +the most recent strong displays of volcanic energy in Central +America, though former great outflows of lava are indicated by +great fields of barren rock, which extend for miles. + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +The Terrible Eruption of Krakatoa. + + +The most destructive volcanic explosion of recent times, one +perhaps unequalled in violence in all times, was that of the small +mountain island of Krakatoa, in the East Indian Archipelago, in +1883. This made its effects felt round the entire globe, and +excited such wide attention that we feel called upon to give it a +chapter of its own. + +The island of Krakatoa lies in the Straits of Sunda, between Java +and Sumatra. In size it is insignificant, and had been silent so +long that its volcanic character was almost lost sight of. Of its +early history we know nothing. At some remote time in the past it +may have appeared as a large cone, of some twenty-five miles in +circumference at base and not less than 10,000 feet high. Then, +still in unknown times, its cone was blown away by internal forces, +leaving only a shattered and irregular crater ring. This crater +was two or three miles in diameter, while the highest part of its +walls rose only a few hundred feet above the sea. Later volcanic +work built up a number of small cones within the crater, and still +later a new cone, called Rakata, rose on the edge of the old one to +a height of 2,623 feet. + +The first known event in the history of the island volcano was an +eruption in the year 1680. After that it lay in repose, forming a +group of islands, one much larger than the others. Some of the +smaller islands indicated the rim of the old crater, much of which +was buried under the sea. Its state of quiescence continued for +two centuries, a tropical vegetation richly mantled the island, and +to all appearance it had sunk permanently to rest. + +Indications of a coming change appeared in 1880, in the form of +earthquakes, which shook all the region around. These continued at +intervals for more that two years. Then, on May 20, 1883, there +were heard at Batavia, a hundred miles away, "booming sounds like +the firing of artillery." Next day the captain of a vessel passing +through the Straits saw that Krakatoa was in eruption, sending up +clouds of smoke and showers of dust and pumice. The smoke was +estimated to reach a height of seven miles, while the volcanic dust +drifted to localities 300 miles away. + + +AWFUL PREMONITIONS + + +The mountain continued to play for about fourteen weeks with +varying activity, several parties meanwhile visiting it and making +observations. Such an eruption, in ordinary cases, would have +ultimately died away, with no marked change other than perhaps the +ejection of a stream of lava. But such was not now the case. The +sequel was at once unexpected and terrible. As the island was +uninhabited, no one actually saw what took place, those nearest to +the scene of the eruption having enough to do to save their own +lives, while the dense clouds of vapor and dust baffled +observation. + +The phase of greatest violence set in on Sunday, August 26th. Soon +after midday sailors on passing ships saw that the island had +vanished behind a dense cloud of black vapor, the height of which +was estimated at not less than seventeen miles. At intervals +frightful detonations resounded, and after a time a rain of pumice +began to fall at places ten miles distant. For miles round fierce +flashes of lightning rent the vapor, and at a distance of fully +forty miles ghostly corposants gleamed on the rigging of a vessel. + +These phenomena grew more and more alarming until August 27th, when +four explosions of fearful intensity shook earth and sea and air, +the third being "far the most violent and productive of the most +widespread results." It was, in fact, perhaps the most tremendous +volcanic outburst, in its intensity, known in human history. It +seemed to overcome the obstruction to the energy of the internal +forces, for the eruption now declined, and in a day or two +practically died away, though one or two comparatively +insignificant outbursts took place later. + + +FAR-REACHING DESTRUCTION + + +The eruption spread ruin and death over many surrounding leagues. +At Krakotoa itself, when men once more reached its shores, +everything was found to be changed. About two-thirds of the main +island were blown completely away. The marginal cone was cut +nearly in half vertically, the new cliff falling precipitously +toward the centre of the crater. Where land had been before now +sea existed, in some places more than one hundred feet deep. But +the part of the island that remained had been somewhat increased in +size by ejected materials. + +Of the other islands and islets some had disappeared; some were +partially destroyed; some were enlarged by fallen debris, while +many changes had taken place in the depth of the neighboring sea- +bed. Two new islands, Steers and Calmeyer, were formed. The +ejected pumice, so cavernous in structure as to float upon the +water, at places formed great floating islands which covered the +sea for miles, and sometimes rose from four to seven feet above it, +proving a serious obstacle to navigation. On vessels near by dust +fell to the depth of eighteen inches. The enormous clouds of +volcanic dust which had been flung high into the air darkened the +sky for a great area around. At Batavia, about a hundred miles +from the volcano, it produced an effect not unlike that of a London +fog. This began about seven in the morning of August 27th. Soon +after ten the light had become lurid and yellow, and lamps were +required in the houses; then came a downfall of rain, mingled with +dust, and by about half-past eleven the town was in complete +darkness. It soon after began to lighten, and the rain to +diminish, and about three o'clock it had ceased. + +At Buitenzorg, twenty miles further away, the conditions were +similar, but lasted for a shorter time. In places much farther +away the upper sky presented a strangely murky aspect, and the sun +assumed a green color. Phenomena of this kind were traced over a +broad area of the globe, even as far as the Hawaiian Islands, while +over a yet wider area the sky after sunset was lit up by after- +glows of extraordinary beauty. The height to which the dust was +projected has been calculated from various data, with the result +that 121,500 feet, or nearly 25 miles, is thought to be a probable +maximum estimate, though it may be that occasional fragments of +larger size were shot up to a still greater height. + + +A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF THE ERUPTION + + +Another effect, of a distressing character, followed the eruption. +A succession of enormous waves, emanating from Krakatoa, traversed +the sea, and swept the coast bordering the Straits of Sunda with +such force as to destroy many villages on the low-lying shores in +Java, Sumatra and other islands. Some buildings at a height of +fifty feet above sea-level were washed away, and in some places the +water rose higher, in one place reaching the height of 115 feet. +At Telok Betong, in Sumatra, a ship was carried inland a distance +of nearly two miles, and left stranded at a height of thirty feet +above the sea. + +The eruption of Krakatoa seems to have been due to some deep-lying +causes of extraordinary violence, this appearing not only in the +terrible explosion which tore the island to fragments and sent its +remnants as floating dust many miles high into the air, but also +from an internal convulsion that affected many of the volcanoes of +Java, which almost simultaneously broke into violent eruption. We +extract from Dr. Robert Bonney's "Our Earth and its Story" a +description of these closely-related events. + +"The disturbances originated on the island of Krakatoa, with +eruptions of red hot stones and ashes, and by noon next day Semeru, +the largest of the Javanese volcanoes, was reported to be belching +forth flames at an alarming rate. The eruption soon spread to +Gunung Guntur and other mountains, until more than a third of the +forty-five craters of Java were either in activity or seriously +threatening it. + +"Just before dusk a great cloud hung over Gunung Guntur, and the +crater of the volcano began to emit enormous streams of white +sulphurous mud and lava, which were rapidly succeeded by +explosions, followed by tremendous showers of cinders and enormous +fragments of rock, which were hurled high into the air and +scattered in all directions, carrying death and destruction with +them. The overhanging clouds were, moreover, so charged with +electricity that water-spouts added to the horror of the scene. +The eruption continued all Saturday night, and next day a dense +cloud, shot with lurid red, gathered over the Kedang range, +intimating that an eruption had broken out there. + +"This proved to be the case, for soon after streams of lava poured +down the mountain sides into the valleys, sweeping everything +before them. About two o'clock on Monday morning--we are drawing +on the account of an eye-witness--the great cloud suddenly broke +into small sections and vanished. When light came it was seen that +an enormous tract of land, extending from Point Capucin on the +south, and Negery Passoerang on the north and west, to the lowest +point, covering about fifty square miles, had been temporarily +submerged by the 'tidal wave.' Here were situated the villages of +Negery and Negery Babawang. Few of the inhabitants of these places +escaped death. This section of the island was less densely +populated than the other portions, and the loss of life was +comparatively small, although it must have aggregated several +thousands. The waters of Welcome Bay in the Sunda Straits, Pepper +Bay on the east, and the Indian Ocean on the south, had rushed in +and formed a sea of turbulent waves. + + +DETONATIONS HEARD FOR MANY MILES AWAY + + +"On Monday night the volcano of Papandayang was in an active state +of paroxysmal eruption, accompanied by detonations which are said +to have been heard for many miles away. In Sumatra three distinct +columns of flame were seen to rise from a mountain to a vast +height, and its whole surface was soon covered with fiery lava +streams, which spread to great distances on all sides. Stones fell +for miles around, and black fragmentary matter carried into the air +caused total darkness. A whirlwind accompanied the eruption, by +which house-roofs, trees, men, and horses were swept into the air. +The quantity of matter ejected was such as to cover the ground and +the roofs of the houses at Denamo to the depth of several inches. +Suddenly the scene changed. At first it was reported that +Papandayang had been split into seven distinct peaks. This proved +untrue; but in the open seams formed could be seen great balls of +molten matter. From the fissures poured forth clouds of steam and +black lava, which, flowing in steady streams, ran slowly down the +mountain sides, forming beds 200 or 300 feet in extent. At the +entrance to Batavia was a large group of houses extending along the +shore, and occupied by Chinamen. This portion of the city was +entirely destroyed, and not many of the Chinese who lived on the +swampy plains managed to save their lives. They stuck to their +homes till the waves came and washed them away, fearing torrents of +flame and lava more than torrents of water. + +"Of the 3,500 Europeans and Americans in Batavia--which for several +hours was in darkness, owing to the fall of ashes--800 perished at +Anjer. The European and American quarter was first overwhelmed by +rocks, mud and lava from the crater, and then the waters came up +and swallowed the ruins, leaving nothing to mark the site, and +causing the loss of about 200 lives of the inhabitants and those +who sought refuge there." + +The loss of life above mentioned was but a small fraction of the +total loss. All along the coasts of the adjoining large islands +towns and villages were swept away and their inhabitants drowned, +till the total loss was, as nearly as could be estimated, 36,000 +souls. Krakatoa thus surpassed Mont Pelee in its tale of +destruction. These two, indeed, have been the most destructive to +life of known volcanic explosions, since the volcano usually falls +far short of the earthquake in its murderous results. + +The distant effects of this explosion were as remarkable as the +near ones. The concussion of the air reached to an unprecedented +distance and the clouds of floating dust encircled the earth, +producing striking phenomena of which an account is given at the +end of this chapter. + +The rapidity with which the effects of the Krakatoa eruption made +themselves evident in all parts of the earth is perhaps the most +remarkable outcome of this extraordinary event. The floating +pumice reached the harbor of St. Paul on the 22nd of March, 1884, +after having made a voyage of some two hundred and sixty days at a +rate of six-tenths of a mile an hour. Immense quantities of pumice +of a similar description, and believed to have been derived from +the same source, reached Tamatave in Madagascar five months later, +and no doubt much of it long continued to float round the world. + + +SERIES OF ATMOSPHERIC WAVES + + +Another result of the eruption was the series of atmospheric waves, +caused by the disturbance in the atmosphere, which affected the +barometer over the entire world. The velocity with which these +waves traveled has been variously estimated at from 912.09 feet to +1066.29 feet per second. This speed is, of course, very much +inferior to that at which sound travels through the air. Yet, in +three distinct cases, the noise of the Krakatoa explosions was +plainly heard at a distance of at least 2,200 miles, and in one +instance--that recorded from Rodriguez--of nearly 3,000. The sound +travelled to Ceylon, Burmah, Manila, New Guinea and Western +Australia, places, however, within a radius of about 2,000 miles; +out Diego Garcia lies outside that area, and Rodriguez a thousand +miles beyond it. Six days subsequent to the explosion, after the +atmospheric waves had traveled four times round the globe, the +barometer was still affected by them. + +Another result, similar in kind, was the extraordinary +dissemination of the great ocean wave, which in a like manner seems +to have encircled the earth, since high waves, without evident +cause, appeared not only in the Pacific, but at many places on the +Atlantic coast within a few days after the event. They were +observed alike in England and at New York. The writer happened to +be at Atlantic City, on the New Jersey coast, at this time. It was +a period of calm, the winds being at rest, but, unheralded, there +came in an ocean wave of such height as to sweep away the ocean- +front boardwalk and do much other damage. He ascribed this strange +wave at the time to the Krakatoa explosion, and is of the same +opinion still. + +In addition to the account given of this extraordinary volcanic +event, it seems desirable to give Sir Robert S. Ball's description +of it in his recent work, "The Earth's Beginnings." While +repeating to some extent what we have already said, it is worthy, +from its freshness of description and general readability, of a +place here. + + +SIR ROBERT S. BALL'S DESCRIPTION + + +"Until the year 1883 few had ever heard of Krakatoa. It was +unknown to fame, as are hundreds of other gems of glorious +vegetation set in tropical waters. It was not inhabited, but the +natives from the surrounding shores of Sumatra and Java used +occasionally to draw their canoes up on its beach, while they +roamed through the jungle in search of the wild fruits that there +abounded. It was known to the mariner who navigated the Straits of +Sunda, for it was marked on his charts as one of the perils of the +intricate navigation in those waters. It was no doubt recorded +that the locality had been once, or more than once, the seat of an +active volcano. In fact, the island seemed to owe its existence to +some frightful eruption of by-gone days; but for a couple of +centuries there had been no fresh outbreak. It almost seemed as if +Krakatoa might be regarded as a volcano that had become extinct. +In this respect it would only be like many other similar objects +all over the globe, or like the countless extinct volcanoes all +over the moon. + +"As the summer of 1883 advanced the vigor of Krakatoa, which had +sprung into notoriety at the beginning of the year, steadily +increased and the noises became more and more vehement; these were +presently audible on shores ten miles distant, and then twenty +miles distant; and still those noises waxed louder and louder, +until the great thunders of the volcano, now so rapidly developing, +astonished the inhabitants that dwelt over an area at least as +large as Great Britain. And there were other symptoms of the +approaching catastrophe. With each successive convulsion a +quantity of fine dust was projected aloft into the clouds. The +wind could not carry this dust away as rapidly as it was hurled +upward by Krakatoa, and accordingly the atmosphere became heavily +charged with suspended particles. + +"A pall of darkness thus hung over the adjoining seas and islands. +Such was the thickness and density of these atmospheric volumes of +Krakatoa dust that, for a hundred miles around, the darkness of +midnight prevailed at midday. Then the awful tragedy of Krakatoa +took place. Many thousands of the unfortunate inhabitants of the +adjacent shores of Sumatra and Java were destined never to behold +the sun again. They were presently swept away to destruction in an +invasion of the shore by the tremendous waves with which the seas +surrounding Krakatoa were agitated. + +"As the days of August passed by the spasms of Krakatoa waxed more +and more vehement. By the middle of that month the panic was +widespread, for the supreme catastrophe was at hand. On the night +of Sunday, August 26, 1883, the blackness of the dust-clouds, now +much thicker than ever in the Straits of Sunda and adjacent parts +of Sumatra and Java, was only occasionally illumined by lurid +flashes from the volcano. + +"At the town of Batavia, a hundred miles distant, there was no +quiet that night. The houses trembled with subterranean violence, +and the windows rattled as if heavy artillery were being discharged +in the streets. And still these efforts seemed to be only +rehearsing for the supreme display. By ten o'clock on the morning +of Monday, August 27, 1883, the rehearsals were over, and the +performance began. An overture, consisting of two or three +introductory explosions, was succeeded by a frightful convulsion +which tore away a large part of the island of Krakatoa and +scattered it to the winds of heaven. In that final outburst all +records of previous explosions on this earth were completely +broken. + + +AN EXTRAORDINARY NOISE + + +"This supreme effort it was which produced the mightiest noise +that, so far as we can ascertain, has ever been heard on this +globe. It must have been indeed a loud noise which could travel +from Krakatoa to Batavia and preserve its vehemence over so great a +distance; but we should form a very inadequate conception of the +energy of the eruption of Krakatoa if we thought that its sounds +were heard by those merely a hundred miles off. This would be +little indeed compared with what is recorded on testimony which it +is impossible to doubt. + +"Westward from Krakatoa stretches the wide expanse of the Indian +Ocean. On the opposite side from the Straits of Sunda lies the +island of Rodriguez, the distance from Krakatoa being almost three +thousand miles. It has been proved by evidence which cannot be +doubted that the thunders of the great volcano attracted the +attention of an intelligent coast-guard on Rodriguez, who carefully +noted the character of the sounds and the time of their occurrence. +He had heard them just four hours after the actual explosion, for +this is the time the sound occupied on its journey. + + +A CONSTANT WIND + + +"This mighty incident at Krakatoa has taught us other lessons on +the constitution of our atmosphere. We previously knew little, or +I might say almost nothing, as to the conditions prevailing above +the height of ten miles overhead. It was Krakatoa which first gave +us a little information which was greatly wanted. How could we +learn what winds were blowing at a height four times as great as +the loftiest mountain on the earth, and twice as great as the +loftiest altitude to which a balloon has ever soared? No doubt a +straw will show which way the wind blows, but there are no straws +up there. There was nothing to render the winds perceptible until +Krakatoa came to our aid. Krakatoa drove into those winds +prodigious quantities of dust. Hundreds of cubic miles of air were +thus deprived of that invisibility which they had hitherto +maintained. + +"With eyes full of astonishment men watched those vast volumes of +Krakatoa dust on a tremendous journey. Of course, every one knows +the so-called trade-winds on our earth's surface, which blow +steadily in fixed directions, and which are of such service to the +mariner. But there is yet another constant wind. It was first +disclosed by Krakatoa. Before the occurrence of that eruption, no +one had the slightest suspicion that far up aloft, twenty miles +over our heads, a mighty tempest is incessantly hurrying, with a +speed much greater than that of the awful hurricane which once laid +so large a part of Calcutta on the ground and slew so many of its +inhabitants. Fortunately for humanity, this new trade-wind does +not come within less than twenty miles of the earth's surface. We +are thus preserved from the fearful destruction that its +unintermittent blasts would produce, blasts against which no tree +could stand and which would, in ten minutes, do as much damage to a +city as would the most violent earthquake. When this great wind +had become charged with the dust of Krakatoa, then, for the first, +and, I may add, for the only time, it stood revealed to human +vision. Then it was seen that this wind circled round the earth in +the vicinity of the equator, and completed its circuit in about +thirteen days. + + +A VAST CLOUD Of DUST + + +"The dust manufactured by the supreme convulsion was whirled round +the earth in the mighty atmospheric current into which the volcano +discharged it. As the dust-cloud was swept along by this +incomparable hurricane it showed its presence in the most glorious +manner by decking the sun and the moon in hues of unaccustomed +splendor and beauty. The blue color in the sky under ordinary +circumstances is due to particles in the air, and when the ordinary +motes of the sunbeam were reinforced by the introduction of the +myriads of motes produced by Krakatoa even the sun itself sometimes +showed a blue tint. Thus the progress of the great dust-cloud was +traced out by the extraordinary sky effects it produced, and from +the progress of the dust-cloud we inferred the movements of the +invisible air current which carried it along. Nor need it be +thought that the quantity of material projected from Krakatoa +should have been inadequate to produce effects of this world-wide +description. Imagine that the material which was blown to the +winds of heaven by the supreme convulsion of Krakatoa could be all +recovered and swept into one vast heap. Imagine that the heap were +to have its bulk measured by a vessel consisting of a cube one mile +long, one mile broad and one mile deep; it has been estimated that +even this prodigious vessel would have to be filled to the brim at +least ten times before all the products of Krakatoa had been +measured." + +It is not specially to the quantity of material ejected from +Krakatoa that it owes its reputation. Great as it was, it has been +much surpassed. Professor Judd says that the great eruptions of +Papapandayang, in Java, in 1772, of Skaptur Jokull, in Iceland, in +1783, and of Tamboro, in Sumbawa, in 1815, were marked by the +extrusion of much larger quantities of material. The special +feature of the Krakatoa eruption was its extreme violence, which +flung volcanic dust to a height probably never before attained, and +produced sea and air waves of an intensity unparalleled in the +records of volcanic action. Judd thinks this was due to the +situation of the crater, and the possible inflow through fissures +of a great volume of sea water to the interior lava, the result +being the sudden production of an enormous volume of steam. + + +EXTRAORDINARY RED SUNSETS + + +The red sunsets spoken of above were so extraordinary in character +that a fuller description of them seems advisable. A remarkable +fact concerning them is the great rapidity with which they were +disseminated to distant regions of the earth. They appeared around +the entire equatorial zone in a few days after the eruption, this +doubtless being due to the great rapidity with which the volcanic +dust was carried by the upper air current. They were seen at +Rodriguez, 3,000 miles away, on August 28, and within a week in +every part of the torrid zone. From this zone they spread north +and south with less rapidity. Their first appearance in Australia +was on September 15th, and at the Cape of Good Hope on the 20th. +On the latter day they were observed in California and the Southern +United States. They were first seen in England on November 9th. +Elsewhere in Europe and the United States they appeared from +November 20th to 30th. + +The effect lasted in some instances as long as an hour and three- +quarters after sunset. In India the sun and skies assumed a +greenish hue, and there was much curiosity regarding the cause of +the "green sun." Another remarkable phenomenon of this period was +the great prevalence of rain during the succeeding winter. This +probably was due to the same cause; that is, to the fact of the air +being so filled with dust; the prevailing theory in regard to rain +being that the existence of dust in the air is necessary to its +fall. The vapor of the air concentrates into drops around such +minute particles, the result being that where dust is absent rain +cannot fall. + +As regards the sunsets spoken of, there are three similar instances +on record. The first of these was in the year 526, when a dry fog +covered the Roman Empire with a red haze. Nothing further is known +concerning it. The other instances were in the years 1783 and +1831. The former of these has been traced to the great eruption of +Skaptur Jokull in that year. It lasted for several months as a +pale blue haze, and occasioned so much obscurity that the sun was +only visible when twelve degrees above the horizon, and then it had +a blood-red appearance. Violent thunderstorms were associated with +it, thus assimilating it with that of 1883. Alike in 1783 and 1831 +there was a pearly, phosphorescent gleam in the atmosphere, by +which small print could be read at midnight. We know nothing +regarding the meteorological conditions of 1831. + +The red sunsets of 1883 were remarkable for their long persistence. +They were observed in the autumn of 1884 with almost their original +brilliancy, and they were still visible in 1885, being seen at +intervals, as if the dust was then distributed in patches, and +driven about by the winds. In fact, similar sunsets were +occasionally visible for several years afterwards. These may well +have been due to the same cause, when we consider with what extreme +slowness very fine dust makes its way through the air, and how much +it may be affected by the winds. + + +THE RED SUNSETS DESCRIBED + + +One writer describes the appearance of these sunsets in the +following terms: "Immediately after sunset a patch of white light +appeared ten or fifteen degrees above the horizon, and shone for +ten minutes with a pearly lustre. Beneath it a layer of bright red +rested on the horizon, melting upward into orange, and this passed +into yellow light, which spread around the lucid spot. Next the +white light grew of a rosy tint, and soon became an intense rose +hue. A vivid golden oriole yellow strip divided it from the red +fringe below and the rose red above." This description, although +exaggerated, represents the general conditions of the phenomenon. + +On October 20th, 1884, the author observed the sunset effect as +follows: "Immediately after the sun had set, a broad cone of +silvery lustre rested upon a horizon of smoky pink. After fifteen +minutes the white became rose color above and yellowish below, +deepening to lemon color, and finally into reddish tint, while the +rose faded out. The whole cone gradually sank and died away in the +brownish red flush on the horizon, more than an hour after sunset." +The time of duration varied, since, on the succeeding evening, it +lasted only a half-hour. These sunset effects, if we can justly +attribute them all to the Krakatoa eruption, were extraordinary not +alone for their intensity and beauty but for their extended +duration, the influence of this remarkable volcanic outbreak being +visible for several years after the event. + +Though no doubt is entertained concerning the cause of the red +sunset effects of 1783 and 1883, that of 1831 is not so readily +explained, there having been no known volcanic explosion of great +intensity in that year. But in view of the fact that volcanoes +exist in unvisited parts of the earth, some of which may have been +at work unknown to scientific man, this difficulty is not +insuperable. Possibly Mounts Erebus or Terror, the burning +mountains of the Antarctic zone, may, unseen by man, have prepared +for civilized lands this grand spectacular effect of Nature's +doings. + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +Mount Pelee and its Harvest of Death. + + +St. Pierre, the principal city of the French island of Martinique, +in the West Indies, lies for the length of about a mile along the +island coast, with high cliffs hemming it in, its houses climbing +the slope, tier upon tier. At one place where a river breaks +through the cliffs, the city creeps further up towards the +mountains. As seen from the bay, its appearance is picturesque and +charming, with the soft tints of its tiles, the grey of its walls, +the clumps of verdure in its midst, and the wall of green in the +rear. Seen from its streets this beauty disappears, and the chief +attraction of the town is gone. + +Back from the three miles of hills which sweep in an arc round the +town, is the noble Montagne Pelee lying several miles to the north +of the city, a mass of dark rock some four thousand feet high, with +jagged outline, and cleft with gorges and ravines, down which flow +numerous streams, gushing from the crater lake of the great +volcano. + +Though known to be a volcano, it was looked upon as practically +extinct, though as late as August, 1856, it had been in eruption. +No lava at that time came from its crater, but it hurled out great +quantities of ashes and mud, with strong sulphurous odor. Then it +went to rest again, and slept till 1902. + +The people had long ceased to fear it. No one expected that grand +old Mount Pelee, the slumbering (so it was thought) tranquil old +hill, would ever spurt forth fire and death. This was entirely +unlooked for. Mont Pelee was regarded by the natives as a sort of +protector; they had an almost superstitious affection for it. From +the outskirts of the city it rose gradually, its sides grown thick +with rich grass, and dotted here and there with spreading shrubbery +and drooping trees. There was no pleasanter outing for an +afternoon than a journey up the green, velvet-like sides of the +towering mountain and a view of the quaint, picturesque city +slumbering at its base. + + +A PEACEFUL SCENE + + +There were no rocky cliffs, no crags, no protruding boulders. The +mountain was peace itself. It seemed to promise perpetual +protection. The poetic natives relied upon it to keep back storms +from the land and frighten, with its stern brow, the tempests from +the sea. They pointed to it with profoundest pride as one of the +most beautiful mountains in the world. + +Children played in its bowers and arbors; families picnicked there +day after day during the balmy weather; hundreds of tourists +ascended to the summit and looked with pleasure at the beautiful +crystal lake which sparkled and glinted in the sunshine. Mont +Pelee was the place of enjoyment of the people of St. Pierre. I +can hear the placid natives say: "Old Father Pelee is our +protector--not our destroyer." + +Not until two weeks before the eruption did the slumbering mountain +show signs of waking to death and disaster. On the 23d of April it +first displayed symptoms of internal disquiet. A great column of +smoke began to rise from it, and was accompanied from time to time +by showers of ashes and cinders. + +Despite these signals, there was nothing until Monday, May 5th, to +indicate actual danger. On that day a stream of smoking mud and +lava burst through the top of the crater and plunged into the +valley of the River Blanche, overwhelming the Guerin sugar works +and killing twenty-three workmen and the son of the proprietor. +Mr. Guerin's was one of the largest sugar works on the island; its +destruction entailed a heavy loss. The mud which overwhelmed it +followed the beds of streams towards the north of the island. + +The alarm in the city was great, but it was somewhat allayed by the +report of an expert commission appointed by the Governor, which +decided that the eruption was normal and that the city was in no +peril. To further allay the excitement, the Governor, with several +scientists, took up his residence in St. Pierre. He could not +restrain the people by force, but the moral effect of his presence +and the decision of the scientists had a similar disastrous result. + + +A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION BY A SUFFERER. + + +The existing state of affairs during these few waiting days is so +graphically given in a letter from Mrs. Thomas T. Prentis, wife of +the United States Consul at St. Pierre, to her sister in Melrose, a +suburban city of Boston, that we quote it here: + +"My Dear Sister: This morning the whole population of the city is +on the alert and every eye is directed toward Mont Pelee, an +extinct volcano. Everybody is afraid that the volcano has taken +into its heart to burst forth and destroy the whole island. + +"Fifty years ago Mont Pelee burst forth with terrific force and +destroyed everything within a radius of several miles. For several +days the mountain has been bursting forth in flame and immense +quantities of lava are flowing down its sides. + +"All the inhabitants are going up to see it. There is not a horse +to be had on the island, those belonging to the natives being kept +in readiness to leave at a moment's notice. + +"Last Wednesday, which was April 23d, I was in my room with little +Christine, and we heard three distinct shocks. They were so great +that we supposed at first that there was some one at the door, and +Christine went and found no one there. The first report was very +loud, and the second and third were so great that dishes were +thrown from the shelves and the house was rocked. + +"We can see Mont Pelee from the rear windows of our house, and +although it is fully four miles away, we can hear the roar of the +fire and lava issuing from it. + +"The city is covered with ashes and clouds of smoke have been over +our heads for the last five days. The smell of sulphur is so +strong that horses on the streets stop and snort, and some of them +are obliged to give up, drop in their harness and die from +suffocation. Many of the people are obliged to wear wet +handkerchiefs over their faces to protect them from the fumes of +sulphur. + +"My husband assures me that there is no immediate danger, and when +there is the least particle of danger we will leave the place. +There is an American schooner, the R. F. Morse, in the harbor, and +she will remain here for at least two weeks. If the volcano +becomes very bad we shall embark at once and go out to sea. The +papers in this city are asking if we are going to experience +another earthquake similar to that which struck here some fifty +years ago." + + +THE FATEFUL EIGHTH OF MAY + + +The writer of this letter and her husband, Consul Prentis, trusted +Mont Pelee too long. They perished, with all the inhabitants of +the city, in a deadly flood of fire and ashes that descended on the +devoted place on the fateful morning of Thursday, May 8th. Only +for the few who were rescued from the ships in the harbor there +would be scarcely a living soul to tell that dread story of ruin +and death. The most graphic accounts are those given by rescued +officers of the Roraima, one of the fleet of the Quebec Steamship +Co., trading with the West Indies. This vessel had left the Island +of Dominica for Martinique at midnight of Wednesday, and reached +St. Pierre about 7 o'clock Thursday morning. The greatest +difficulty was experienced in getting into port, the air being +thick with falling ashes and the darkness intense. The ship had to +grope its way to the anchorage. Appalling sounds were issuing from +the mountain behind the town, which was shrouded in darkness. The +ashes were falling thickly on the steamer's deck, where the +passengers and others were gazing at the town, some being engaged +in photographing the scene. + +The best way in which we can describe a scene of which few lived to +tell the story, is to give the narratives of a number of the +survivors. From their several stories a coherent idea of the +terrible scene can be formed. From the various accounts given of +the terrible explosion by officers of the Roraima, we select as a +first example the following description by Assistant Purser +Thompson: + + +A TALE OF SUDDEN RUIN + + +"I saw St. Pierre destroyed. It was blotted out by one great flash +of fire. Nearly 40,000 persons were all killed at once. Out of +eighteen vessels lying in the roads only one, the British steamship +Roddam, escaped, and she, I hear, lost more than half on board. It +was a dying crew that took her out. + +"Our boat, the Roraima, of the Quebec Line, arrived at St. Pierre +early Thursday morning. For hours before we entered the roadstead +we could see flames and smoke rising from Mont Pelee. No one on +board had any idea of danger. Captain G. T. Muggah was on the +bridge, and all hands got on deck to see the show. + +"The spectacle was magnificent. As we approached St. Pierre we +could distinguish the rolling and leaping of the red flames that +belched from the mountain in huge volumes and gushed high in to the +sky. Enormous clouds of black smoke hung over the volcano. + +"When we anchored at St. Pierre I noticed the cable steamship +Grappler, the Roddam, three or four American schooners and a number +of Italian and Norwegian barks. The flames were then spurting +straight up in the air, now and then waving to one side or the +other for a moment and again leaping suddenly higher up. + +"There was a constant muffled roar. It was like the biggest oil +refinery in the world burning up on the mountain top. There was a +tremendous explosion about 7.45 o'clock, soon after we got in. The +mountain was blown to pieces. There was no warning. The side of +the volcano was ripped out, and there was hurled straight toward us +a solid wall of flame. It sounded like thousands of cannon. + +"The wave of fire was on us and over us like a lightning flash. It +was like a hurricane of fire. I saw it strike the cable steamship +Grappler broadside on and capsize her. From end to end she burst +into flames and then sank. The fire rolled in mass straight down +upon St. Pierre and the shipping. The town vanished before our +eyes and the air grew stifling hot, and we were in the thick of it. + +"Wherever the mass of fire struck the sea the water boiled and sent +up vast clouds of steam. The sea was torn into huge whirlpools +that careened toward the open sea. + +"One of these horrible hot whirlpools swung under the Roraima and +pulled her down on her beam ends with the suction. She careened +way over to port, and then the fire hurricane from the volcano +smashed her, and over she went on the opposite side. The fire wave +swept off the masts and smokestack as if they were cut with a +knife. + + +HEAT CAUSED EXPLOSIONS + + +"Captain Muggah was the only one on deck not killed outright. He +was caught by the fire wave and terribly burned. He yelled to get +up the anchor, but, before two fathoms were heaved in the Roraima +was almost upset by the boiling whirlpool, and the fire wave had +thrown her down on her beam ends to starboard. Captain Muggah was +overcome by the flames. He fell unconscious from the bridge and +toppled overboard. + +"The blast of fire from the volcano lasted only a few minutes. It +shriveled and set fire to everything it touched. Thousands of +casks of rum were stored in St. Pierre, and these were exploded by +the terrific heat. The burning rum ran in streams down every +street and out to the sea. This blazing rum set fire to the +Roraima several times. Before the volcano burst the landings of +St. Pierre were crowded with people. After the explosion not one +living being was seen on land. Only twenty-five of those on the +Roraima out of sixty-eight were left after the first flash. + +"The French cruiser Suchet came in and took us off at 2 P. M. She +remained nearby, helping all she could, until 5 o'clock, then went +to Fort de France with all the people she had rescued. At that +time it looked as if the entire north end of the island was on +fire." + +C. C. Evans, of Montreal, and John G. Morris, of New York, who were +among those rescued, say the vessel arrived at 6 o'clock. As eight +bells were struck a frightful explosion was heard up the mountain. +A cloud of fire, toppling and roaring, swept with lightning speed +down the mountain side and over the town and bay. The Roraima was +nearly sunk, and caught fire at once. + +"I can never forget the horrid, fiery, choking whirlwind which +enveloped me," said Mr. Evans. "Mr. Morris and I rushed below. We +are not very badly burned, not so bad as most of them. When the +fire came we were going to our posts (we are engineers) to weigh +anchor and get out. When we came up we found the ship afire aft, +and fought it forward until 3 o'clock, when the Suchet came to our +rescue. We were then building a raft." + +"Ben" Benson, the carpenter of the Roraima, said: "I was on deck, +amidships, when I heard an explosion. The captain ordered me to up +anchor. I got to the windlass, but when the fire came I went into +the forecastle and got my 'duds.' When I came out I talked with +Captain Muggah, Mr. Scott, the first officer and others. They had +been on the bridge. The captain was horribly burned. He had +inhaled flames and wanted to jump into the sea. I tried to make +him take a life-preserver. The captain, who was undressed, jumped +overboard and hung on to a line for a while. Then he disappeared." + + +THE COOPER'S STORY. + + +James Taylor, a cooper employed on the Roraima, gives the following +account of his experience of the disaster: + +"Hearing a tremendous report and seeing the ashes falling thicker, +I dived into a room, dragging with me Samuel Thomas, a gangway man +and fellow countryman, shutting the door tightly. Shortly after I +heard a voice, which I recognized as that of the chief mate, Mr. +Scott. Opening the door with great caution, I drew him in. The +nose of Thomas was burned by the intense heat. + +"We three and Thompson, the assistant purser, out of sixty-eight +souls on board, were the only persons who escaped practically +uninjured. The heat being unbearable, I emerged in a few moments, +and the scene that presented itself to my eyes baffles description. +All around on the deck were the dead and dying covered with boiling +mud. There they lay, men, women and little children, and the +appeals of the latter for water were heart-rending. When water was +given them they could not swallow it, owing to their throats being +filled with ashes or burnt with the heated air. + +"The ship was burning aft, and I jumped overboard, the sea being +intensely hot. I was at once swept seaward by a tidal wave, but, +the sea receding a considerable distance, the return wave washed me +against an upturned sloop to which I clung. I was joined by a man +so dreadfully burned and disfigured as to be unrecognizable. +Afterwards I found he was the captain of the Roraima, Captain +Muggah. He was in dreadful agony, begging piteously to be put on +board his ship. + +"Picking up some wreckage which contained bedding and a tool chest, +I, with the help of five others who had joined me on the wreck, +constructed a rude raft, on which we placed the captain. Then, +seeing an upturned boat, I asked one of the five, a native of +Martinique, to swim and fetch it. Instead of returning to us, he +picked up two of his countrymen and went away in the direction of +Fort de France. Seeing the Roddam, which arrived in port shortly +after we anchored, making for the Roraima, I said good-bye to the +captain and swam back to the Roraima. + +"The Roddam, however, burst into flames and put to sea. I reached +the Roraima at about half-past 2, and was afterwards taken off by a +boat from the French warship Suchet. Twenty-four others with +myself were taken on to Fort de France. Three of these died before +reaching port. A number of others have since died." + +Samuel Thomas, the gangway man, whose life was saved by the +forethought of Taylor, says that the scene on the burning ship was +awful. The groans and cries of the dying, for whom nothing could +be done, were horrible. He describes a woman as being burned to +death with a living babe in her arms. He says that it seemed as if +the whole world was afire. + + +CONSUL AYME'S STATEMENT + + +The inflammable material in the forepart of the ship that would +have ignited that part of the vessel was thrown overboard by him +and the other two uninjured men. The Grappler, the telegraph +company's ship, was seen opposite the Usine Guerin, and disappeared +as if blown up by a submarine explosion. The captain's body was +subsequently found by a boat from the Suchet. + +Consul Ayme, of Guadeloupe, who, as already stated, had hastened to +Fort de France on hearing of the terrible event, tells the story of +the disaster in the following words: + +"Thursday morning the inhabitants of the city awoke to find heavy +clouds shrouding Mont Pelee crater. All day Wednesday horrid +detonations had been heard. These were echoed from St. Thomas on +the north to Barbados on the south. The cannonading ceased on +Wednesday night, and fine ashes fell like rain on St. Pierre. The +inhabitants were alarmed, but Governor Mouttet, who had arrived at +St. Pierre the evening before, did everything possible to allay the +panic. + +"The British steamer Roraima reached St. Pierre on Thursday with +ten passengers, among whom were Mrs. Stokes and her three children, +and Mrs. H. J. Ince. They were watching the rain of ashes, when, +with a frightful roar and terrific electric discharges, a cyclone +of fire, mud and steam swept down from the crater over the town and +bay, sweeping all before it and destroying the fleet of vessels at +anchor off the shore. There the accounts of the catastrophe so far +obtainable cease. Thirty thousand corpses are strewn about, buried +in the ruins of St. Pierre, or else floating, gnawed by sharks, in +the surrounding seas. Twenty-eight charred, half-dead human beings +were brought here. Sixteen of them are already dead, and only four +of the whole number are expected to recover." + + +A WOMAN'S EXPERIENCE ON THE "RORAIMA" + + +Margaret Stokes, the 9 year old daughter of the late Clement +Stokes, of New York, who, with her mother, a brother aged 4 and a +sister aged 3 years, was on the ill-fated steamer Roraima, was +saved from that vessel, but is not expected to live. Her nurse, +Clara King, tells the following story of her experience: + +She says she was in her stateroom, when the steward of the Roraima +called out to her: + +"Look at Mont Pelee." + +She went on deck and saw a vast mass of black cloud coming down +from the volcano. The steward ordered her to return to the saloon, +saying, "It is coming." + +Miss King then rushed to the saloon. She says she experienced a +feeling of suffocation, which was followed by intense heat. The +afterpart of the Roraima broke out in flames. Ben Benson, the +carpenter of the Roraima, severely burned, assisted Miss King and +Margaret Stokes to escape. With the help of Mr. Scott, the first +mate of the Roraima, he constructed a raft, with life preservers. +Upon this Miss King and Margaret were placed. + +While this was being done Margaret's little brother died. Mate +Scott brought the child water at great personal danger, but it was +unavailing. Shortly after the death of the little boy Mrs. Stokes +succumbed. Margaret and Miss King eventually got away on the raft, +and were picked up by the steamer Korona. Mate Scott also escaped. +Miss King did not sustain serious injuries. She covered the face +of Margaret with her dress, but still the child was probably +fatally burned. + +The only woman known at that time to have survived the disaster at +St. Pierre was a negress named Fillotte. She was found in a cellar +Saturday afternoon, where she had been for three days. She was +still alive, but fearfully burned from head to toes. She died +afterward in the hospital. + + +CAPTAIN FREEMAN'S THRILLING ACCOUNT + + +Of the vessels in the harbor of St. Pierre on the fateful morning, +only one, the British steamer Roddam, escaped, and that with a crew +of whom few reached the open sea alive. Those who did escape were +terribly injured. Captain Freeman, of this vessel, tells what he +experienced in the following thrilling language: + +"St. Lucia, British West Indies, May 11.--The steamer Roddam, of +which I am captain, left St. Lucia at midnight of May 7, and was +off St. Pierre, Martinique, at 6 o'clock on the morning of the 8th. +I noticed that the volcano, Mont Pelee, was smoking, and crept +slowly in toward the bay, finding there among others the steamer +Roraima, the telegraph repairing steamer Grappler and four sailing +vessels. I went to anchorage between 7 and 8 and had hardly moored +when the side of the volcano opened out with a terrible explosion. +A wall of fire swept over the town and the bay. The Roddam was +struck broadside by the burning mass. The shock to the ship was +terrible, nearly capsizing her. + + +AWFUL RESULTS + + +"Hearing the awful report of the explosion and seeing the great +wall of flames approaching the steamer, those on deck sought +shelter wherever it was possible, jumping into the cabin, the +forecastle and even into the hold. I was in the chart room, but +the burning embers were borne by so swift a movement of the air +that they were swept in through the door and port holes, +suffocating and scorching me badly. I was terribly burned by these +embers about the face and hands, but managed to reach the deck. +Then, as soon as it was possible, I mustered the few survivors who +seemed able to move, ordered them to slip the anchor, leaped for +the bridge and ran the engine for full speed astern. The second +and the third engineer and a fireman were on watch below and so +escaped injury. They did their part in the attempt to escape, but +the men on deck could not work the steering gear because it was +jammed by the debris from the volcano. We accordingly went ahead +and astern until the gear was free, but in this running backward +and forward it was two hours after the first shock before we were +clear of the bay. + +"One of the most terrifying conditions was that, the atmosphere +being charged with ashes, it was totally dark. The sun was +completely obscured, and the air was only illuminated by the flames +from the volcano and those of the burning town and shipping. It +seems small to say that the scene was terrifying in the extreme. +As we backed out we passed close to the Roraima, which was one mass +of blaze. The steam was rushing from the engine room, and the +screams of those on board were terrible to hear. The cries for +help were all in vain, for I could do nothing but save my own ship. +When I last saw the Roraima she was settling down by the stern. +That was about 10 o'clock in the morning. + +"When the Roddam was safely out of the harbor of St. Pierre, with +its desolations and horrors, I made for St. Lucia. Arriving there, +and when the ship was safe, I mustered the survivors as well as I +was able and searched for the dead and injured. Some I found in +the saloon where they had vainly sought for safety, but the cabins +were full of burning embers that had blown in through the port +holes. Through these the fire swept as through funnels and burned +the victims where they lay or stood, leaving a circular imprint of +scorched and burned flesh. I brought ten on deck who were thus +burned; two of them were dead, the others survived, although in a +dreadful state of torture from their burns. Their screams of agony +were heartrending. Out of a total of twenty-three on board the +Roddam, which includes the captain and the crew, ten are dead and +several are in the hospital. My first and second mates, my chief +engineer and my supercargo, Campbell by name, were killed. The +ship was covered from stem to stern with tons of powdered lava, +which retained its heat for hours after it had fallen. In many +cases it was practically incandescent, and to move about the deck +in this burning mass was not only difficult but absolutely +perilous. I am only now able to begin thoroughly to clear and +search the ship for any damage done by this volcanic rain, and to +see if there are any corpses in out-of-the-way places. For +instance, this morning, I found one body in the peak of the +forecastle. The body was horribly burned and the sailor had +evidently crept in there in his agony to die. + +"On the arrival of the Roddam at St. Lucia the ship presented an +appalling appearance. Dead and calcined bodies lay about the deck, +which was also crowded with injured helpless and suffering people. +Prompt assistance was rendered to the injured by the authorities +here and my poor, tortured men were taken to the hospital. The +dead were buried. I have omitted to mention that out of twenty-one +black laborers that I brought from Grenada to help in stevedoring, +only six survived. Most of the others threw themselves overboard +to escape a dreadful fate, but they met a worse one, for it is an +actual fact that the water around the ship was literally at a +boiling heat. The escape of my vessel was miraculous. The +woodwork of the cabins and bridge and everything inflammable on +deck were constantly igniting, and it was with great difficulty +that we few survivors managed to keep the flames down. My ropes, +awnings, tarpaulins were completely burned up. + +"I witnessed the entire destruction of St. Pierre. The flames +enveloped the town in every quarter with such rapidity that it was +impossible that any person could be saved. As I have said, the day +was suddenly turned to night, but I could distinguish by the light +of the burning town people distractedly running about on the beach. +The burning buildings stood out from the surrounding darkness like +black shadows. All this time the mountain was roaring and shaking, +and in the intervals between these terrifying sounds I could hear +the cries of despair and agony from the thousands who were +perishing. These cries added to the terror of the scene, but it is +impossible to describe its horror or the dreadful sensations it +produced. It was like witnessing the end of the world. + +"Let me add that, after the first shock was over, the survivors of +the crew rendered willing help to navigate the ship to this port. +Mr. Plissoneau, our agent in Martinique, happening to be on board, +was saved, and I really believe that he is the only survivor of St. +Pierre. As it is, he is seriously burned on the hands and face. + +"FREEMAN, + +"Master British Steamship Roddam." + + +THE "ETONA" PASSES ST. PIERRE + + +The British steamer Etona, of the Norton Line, stopped at St. Lucia +to coal on May 10th. Captain Cantell there visited the Roddam and +had an interview with Captain Freeman. On the 11th the Elona put +to sea again, passing St. Pierre in the afternoon. We subjoin her +captain's story: + +"The weather was clear and we had a fine view, but the old outlines +of St. Pierre were not recognizable. Everything was a mass of blue +lava, and the formation of the land itself seemed to have changed. +When we were about eight miles off the northern end of the island +Mount Pelee began to belch a second time. Clouds of smoke and lava +shot into the air and spread over all the sea, darkening the sun. +Our decks in a few minutes were covered with a substance that +looked like sand dyed a bluish tint, and which smelled like +phosphorus. For all that the day was clear, there was little to be +seen satisfactorily. Over the island there hung a blue haze. It +seemed to me that the formation, the topography, of the island was +altered. + +"Everything seemed to be covered with a blue dust, such as had +fallen aboard us every day since we had been within the affected +region. It was blue lava dust. For more than an hour we scanned +the coast with our glasses, now and then discovering something that +looked like a ruined hamlet or collection of buildings. There was +no life visible. Suddenly we realized that we might have to fight +for our lives as the Roddam's people had done. + +"We were about four miles off the northern end of the island when +suddenly there shot up in the air to a tremendous height a column +of smoke. The sky darkened and the smoke seemed to swirl down upon +us. In fact, it spread all around, darkening the atmosphere as far +as we could see. I called Chief Engineer Farrish to the deck. + +"'Do you see that over there?' I asked, pointing to the eruption, +for it was the second eruption of Mont Pelee. He saw it all right. +Captain Freeman's story was fresh in my mind. + +"'Well, Farrish, rush your engines as they have never been rushed +before,' I said to him. He went below, and soon we began to burn +coal and pile up the feathers in our forefoot. + +"I was on watch with Second Officer Gibbs. At once we began to +furl awnings and make secure against fire. The crew were all +showing an anxious spirit, and everybody on board, including the +four passengers, were serious and apprehensive. + +"We began to cut through the water at almost twelve knots. +Ordinarily we make ten knots. We could see no more of the land +contour, but everything seemed to be enveloped in a great cloud. +There was no fire visible, but the lava dust rained down upon us +steadily. In less than an hour there were two inches of it upon +our deck. + +"The air smelled like phosphorus. No one dared to look up to try +to locate the sun, because one's eyes would fill with lava dust. +Some of the blue lava dust is sticking to our mast yet, although we +have swabbed decks and rigging again and again to be clear of it. + +"After a little more than an hour's fast running we saw daylight +ahead and began to breathe easier. If I had not talked with +Captain Freeman and heard from him just how the black swirl of wind +and fire rolled down upon him, I would not have been so +apprehensive, but would have thought that the darkness and cloud +that came down upon us meant just an unusually heavy squall." + + +CHIEF ENGINEER FARRISH'S STORY + + +"The Etona's run from Montevideo was a fast one--I think a record +breaker. We were 22 days and 21 hours from port to port. Off +Martinique I stared at the coast for about an hour, and then went +below. The blue lava that covered everything faded into the haze +that hung over the island so that nothing was distinctly visible. +Through my glass I discovered a stream of lava, though. It +stretched down the mountain side, and seemed to be flowing into the +sea. It was not clearly and distinctly visible, however. + +"About 3 o'clock I went below to take forty winks. I had been in +my berth only a few minutes when the steward told me the captain +wanted me on the bridge. + +"'Do you see that, Farrish?' he asked, pointing at the land. An +outburst of smoke seemed to be sweeping down upon us. It made me +think of the Roddam's experience. Smoke and dust closed in about +us, shutting out the sunlight, and precipitating a fall of lava on +our decks. + +"'Go below and drive her,' said the captain, and I didn't lose any +time, I can tell you. We burned coal as though it didn't cost a +cent. The safety valve was jumping every second, even though we +were making twelve knots an hour. For two hours we kept up the +pace, and then, running into clear daylight, let the engines slow +down and we all cheered up a bit." + + +CAPTAIN CANTELL VISITS THE "RODDAM" + + +Captain Cantell went on board the Roddam, whose frightful condition +he thus describes: + +"At St. Lucia, on May 11th, I went on board the British steamship +Roddam, which had escaped from the terrible volcanic eruption at +Martinique two days before. The state of the ship was enough to +show that those on board must have undergone an awful experience. + +"The Roddam was covered with a mass of fine bluish gray dust or +ashes of cement-like appearance. In some parts it lay two feet +deep on the decks. This matter had fallen in a red-hot state all +over the steamer, setting fire to everything it struck that was +burnable, and, when it fell on the men on board, burning off limbs +and large pieces of flesh. This was shown by finding portions of +human flesh when the decks were cleared of the debris. The +rigging, ropes, tarpaulins, sails, awnings, etc., were charred or +burned, and most of the upper stanchions and spars were swept +overboard or destroyed by fire. Skylights were smashed and cabins +were filled with volcanic dust. The scene of ruin was deplorable. + +"The captain, though suffering the greatest agony, succeeded in +navigating his vessel safely to the port of Castries, St. Lucia, +with eighteen dead bodies on the deck and human limbs scattered +about. A sailor stood by constantly wiping the captain's injured +eyes. + +"I think the performance of the Roddam's captain was most +wonderful, and the more so when I saw his pitiful condition. I do +not understand how he kept up, yet when the steamer arrived at St. +Lucia and medical assistance was procured, this brave man asked the +doctors to attend to the others first and refused to be treated +until this was done. + +"My interview with the captain brought out this account. I left +him in good spirits and receiving every comfort. The sight of his +face would frighten anyone not prepared to see it." + + +THE VIVID ACCOUNT OF M. ALBERT + + +To the accounts given by the survivors of the Roraima and the +officers of the Etona, it will be well to add the following graphic +story told by M. Albert, a planter of the island, the owner of an +estate situated only a mile to the northeast of the burning crater +of Mont Pelee. His escape from death had in it something of the +marvellous. He says: + +"Mont Pelee had given warning of the destruction that was to come, +but we, who had looked upon the volcano as harmless, did not +believe that it would do more than spout fire and steam, as it had +done on other occasions. It was a little before eight o'clock on +the morning of May 8 that the end came. I was in one of the fields +of my estate when the ground trembled under my feet, not as it does +when the earth quakes, but as though a terrible struggle was going +on within the mountain. A terror came upon me, but I could not +explain my fear. + +"As I stood still Mont Pelee seemed to shudder, and a moaning sound +issued from its crater. It was quite dark, the sun being obscured +by ashes and fine volcanic dust. The air was dead about me, so +dead that the floating dust seemingly was not disturbed. Then +there was a rending, crashing, grinding noise, which I can only +describe as sounding as though every bit of machinery in the world +had suddenly broken down. It was deafening, and the flash of light +that accompanied it was blinding, more so than any lightning I have +ever seen. + +"It was like a terrible hurricane, and where a fraction of a second +before there had been a perfect calm, I felt myself drawn into a +vortex and I had to brace myself firmly. It was like a great +express train rushing by, and I was drawn by its force. The +mysterious force levelled a row of strong trees, tearing them up by +the roots and leaving bare a space of ground fifteen yards wide and +more than one hundred yards long. Transfixed I stood, not knowing +in what direction to flee. I looked toward Mont Pelee, and above +its apex there appeared a great black cloud which reached high in +the air. It literally fell upon the city of St. Pierre. It moved +with a rapidity that made it impossible for anything to escape it. +From the cloud came explosions that sounded as though all of the +navies of the world were in titanic combat. Lightning played in +and out in broad forks, the result being that intense darkness was +followed by light that seemed to be of magnifying power. + +"That St. Pierre was doomed I knew, but I was prevented from seeing +the destruction by a spur of the hill that shut off the view of the +city. It is impossible for me to tell how long I stood there +inert. Probably it was only a few seconds, but so vivid were my +impressions that it now seems as though I stood as a spectator for +many minutes. When I recovered possession of my senses I ran to my +house and collected the members of the family, all of whom were +panic stricken. I hurried them to the seashore, where we boarded a +small steamship, in which we made the trip in safety to Fort de +France. + +"I know that there was no flame in the first wave that was sent +down upon St. Pierre. It was a heavy gas, like firedamp, and it +must have asphyxiated the inhabitants before they were touched by +the fire, which quickly followed. As we drew out to sea in the +small steamship, Mont Pelee was in the throes of a terrible +convulsion. New craters seemed to be opening all about the summit +and lava was flowing in broad streams in every direction. My +estate was ruined while we were still in sight of it. Many women +who lived in St. Pierre escaped only to know that they were left +widowed and childless. This is because many of the wealthier men +sent their wives away, while they remained in St. Pierre to attend +to their business affairs." + + +WHAT HAPPENED ON THE "HORACE" + + +The British steamer Horace experienced the effect of the explosion +when farther from land. After touching at Barbados, she reached +the vicinity of Martinique on May 9th, her decks being covered with +several inches of dust when she was a hundred and twenty-five miles +distant. We quote engineer Anderson's story: + +"On the afternoon of May 8 (Thursday) we noticed a peculiar haze in +the direction of Martinique. The air seemed heavy and oppressive. +The weather conditions were not at all unlike those which precede +the great West Indian hurricanes, but, knowing it was not the +season of the year for them, we all remarked in the engine room +that there must be a heavy storm approaching. + +"Several of the sailors, experienced deep water seamen, laughed at +our prognostications, and informed us there would be no storm +within the next sixty hours, and insisted that, according to all +fo'cas'le indications, a dead calm was in sight. + +"So unusually peculiar were the weather conditions that we talked +of nothing else during the evening. That night, in the direction +of Martinique, there was a very black sky, an unusual thing at this +season of the year, and a storm was apparently brewing in a +direction from which storms do not come at this season. + + +GREAT FLASHES OF LIGHT + + +"As the night wore on those on watch noticed what appeared to be +great flashes of lightning in the direction of Martinique. It +seemed as though the ordinary conditions were reversed, and even +the fo'cas'le prophets were unable to offer explanations. + +"Occasionally, over the pounding of the engines and the rush of +water, we thought we could hear long, deep roars, not unlike the +ending of a deep peal of thunder. Several times we heard the +rumble or roar, but at the time we were not certain as to exactly +what it was, or even whether we really heard it. + +"There would suddenly come great flashes of light from the dark +bank toward Martinique. Some of them seemed to spread over a great +area, while others appeared to spout skyward, funnel shaped. All +night this continued, and it was not until day came that the +flashes disappeared. The dark bank that covered the horizon toward +Martinique, however, did not fade away with the breaking of day, +and at eight in the morning of the 9th (Friday) the whole section +of the sky in that direction seemed dark and troubled. + +"About nine o'clock Friday morning I was sitting on one of the +hatches aft with some of the other engineers and officers of the +ship, discussing the peculiar weather phenomena. I noticed a sort +of grit that got into my mouth from the end of the cigar I was +smoking. + +"I attributed it to some rather bad coal which we had shipped +aboard, and, turning to Chief Engineer Evans, I remarked that 'that +coal was mighty dirty,' and he said that it was covering the ship +with a sort of grit. Then I noticed that grit was getting on my +clothes, and finally some one suggested that we go forward of the +funnels, so we would not get dirt on us. As we went forward we met +one or two of the sailors from the forecastle, who wanted to know +about the dust that was falling on the ship. Then we found that +the grayish-looking ash was sifting all over the ship, both forward +and aft. + + +ASHES RAINED ON THE SHIP + + +"Every moment the ashes rained down all over the ship, and at the +same time grew thicker. A few moments later, the lookout called +down that we were running into a fog-bank dead ahead. Fog banks in +that section are unheard of at nine o'clock in the morning at this +season, and we were more than a hundred miles from land, and what +could fog and sand be doing there. + +"Before we knew it, we went into the fog, which proved to be a big +dense bank of this same sand, and it rained down on us from every +side. Ventilators were quickly brought to their places, and later +even the hatches were battened down. The dust became suffocating, +and the men at times had all they could do to keep from choking. +What the stuff was we could not at first conjecture, or rather, we +didn't have much time to speculate on it, for we had to get our +ship in shape to withstand we hardly knew what. + +"At first we thought that the sand must have been blown from shore. +Then we decided that if the Captain's figures were right we +wouldn't be near enough to shore to have sand blow on us, and as we +had just cleared Barbados, we knew that the Captain's figures had +to be right. + +"Just as the storm of sand was at its height, Fourth Engineer Wild +was nearly suffocated by it, but was easily revived. About this +time it became so dark that we found it necessary to start up the +electric lights, and it was not until after we got clear from the +fog that we turned the current off. In the meantime they had +burned from nine o'clock in the morning until after two in the +afternoon. + + +THE ENGINE BECAME CHOKED + + +"Then there was another anxious moment shortly after nine o'clock. +Third Engineer Rennie had been running the donkey engine, when +suddenly it choked, and when he finally got it clear from the sand +or ashes, he found the valves were all cut out, and then it was we +discovered that it was not sand, but some sort of a composition +that seemed to cut steel like emery. Then came the danger that it +would get into the valves of the engine and cut them out, and for +several moments all hands scurried about and helped make the engine +room tight, and even then the ash drifted in and kept all the +engine room force wiping the engines clear of it. + +"Toward three o'clock in the afternoon of Friday we were +practically clear of the sand, but at eleven o'clock that night we +ran into a second bank of it, though not as bad as the first. We +made some experiments, and found the stuff was superior to emery +dust. It cut deeper and quicker, and only about half as much was +required to do the work. We made up our minds we would keep what +came on board, as it was better than the emery dust and much +cheaper, so we gathered it up. + +"That night there were more of the same electric phenomena toward +Martinique, but it was not until we got into St. Lucia, where we +saw the Roddam, that we learned of the terrible disaster at St. +Pierre, and then we knew that our sand was lava dust." + +The volcanic ash which fell on the decks of the Horace was ground +as fine as rifle powder, and was much finer than that which covered +the decks of the Etona. + +Returning to the stories told by officers of the Roraima, of which +a number have been given, it seems desirable to add here the +narrative of Ellery S. Scott, the mate of the ruined ship, since it +gives a vivid and striking account of his personal experience of +the frightful disaster, with many details of interest not related +by others. + + +MATE SCOTT'S GRAPHIC STORY + + +"We got to St. Pierre in the Roraima," began Mr. Scott, "at 6.30 +o'clock on Thursday morning. That's the morning the mountain and +the town and the ships were all sent to hell in a minute. + +"All hands had had breakfast. I was standing on the fo'c's'l head +trying to make out the marks on the pipes of a ship 'way out and +heading for St. Lucia. I wasn't looking at the mountain at all. +But I guess the captain was, for he was on the bridge, and the last +time I heard him speak was when he shouted, 'Heave up, Mr. Scott; +heave up.' I gave the order to the men, and I think some of them +did jump to get the anchor up, but nobody knows what really +happened for the next fifteen minutes. I turned around toward the +captain and then I saw the mountain. + +"Did you ever see the tide come into the Bay of Fundy. It doesn't +sneak in a little at a time as it does 'round here. It rolls in in +waves. That's the way the cloud of fire and mud and white-hot +stones rolled down from that volcano over the town and over the +ships. It was on us in almost no time, but I saw it and in the +same glance I saw our captain bracing himself to meet it on the +bridge. He was facing the fire cloud with both hands gripped hard +to the bridge rail, his legs apart and his knees braced back stiff. +I've seen him brace himself that same way many a time in a tough +sea with the spray going mast-head high and green water pouring +along the decks. + +"I saw the captain, I say, at the same instant I saw that ruin +coming down on us. I don't know why, but that last glimpse of poor +Muggah on his bridge will stay with me just as long as I remember +St. Pierre and that will be long enough. + +"In another instant it was all over for him. As I was looking at +him he was all ablaze. He reeled and fell on the bridge with his +face toward me. His mustache and eyebrows were gone in a jiffy. +His hat had gone, and his hair was aflame, and so were his clothes +from head to foot. I knew he was conscious when he fell, by the +look in his eyes, but he didn't make a sound. + +"That all happened a long way inside of half a minute; then +something new happened. When the wave of fire was going over us, a +tidal wave of the sea came out from the shore and did the rest. +That wall of rushing water was so high and so solid that it seemed +to rise up and join the smoke and flame above. For an instant we +could see nothing but the water and the flame. + +"That tidal wave picked the ship up like a canoe and then smashed +her. After one list to starboard the ship righted, but the masts, +the bridge, the funnel and all the upper works had gone overboard. + +"I had saved myself from fire by jamming a metal ventilator cover +over my head and jumping from the fo'c's'l head. Two St. Kitts +negroes saved me from the water by grabbing me by the legs and +pulling me down into the fo'c's'l after them. Before I could get +up three men tumbled in on top of me. Two of them were dead. + +"Captain Muggah went overboard, still clinging to the fragments of +his wrecked bridge. Daniel Taylor, the ship's cooper, and a Kitts +native jumped overboard to save him. Taylor managed to push the +captain on to a hatch that had floated off from us and then they +swam back to the ship for more assistance, but nothing could be +done for the captain. Taylor wasn't sure he was alive. The last +we saw of him or his dead body it was drifting shoreward on that +hatch. + +"Well, after staying in the fo'c's'l about twenty minutes I went +out on deck. There were just four of us left aboard who could do +anything. The four were Thompson, Dan Taylor, Quashee, and myself. +It was still raining fire and hot rocks and you could hardly see a +ship's length for dust and ashes, but we could stand that. There +were burning men and some women and two or three children lying +around the deck. Not just burned, but burning, then, when we got +to them. More than half the ship's company had been killed in that +first rush of flame. Some had rolled overboard when the tidal wave +came and we never saw so much as their bodies. The cook was burned +to death in his galley. He had been paring potatoes for dinner and +what was left of his right hand held the shank of his potato knife. +The wooden handle was in ashes. All that happened to a man in less +than a minute. The donkey engineman was killed on deck sitting in +front of his boiler. We found parts of some bodies--a hand, or an +arm or a leg. Below decks there were some twenty alive. + +"The ship was on fire, of course, what was left of it. The stumps +of both masts were blazing. Aft she was like a furnace, but +forward the flames had not got below deck, so we four carried those +who were still alive on deck into the fo'c's'l. All of them were +burned and most of them were half strangled. + +"One boy, a passenger and just a little shaver [the four-year-old +son of the late Clement Stokes, above spoken of] was picked up +naked. His hair and all his clothing had been burned off, but he +was alive. We rolled him in a blanket and put him in a sailor's +bunk. A few minutes later we looked at him and he was dead. + +"My own son's gone, too. It had been his trick at lookout ahead +during the dog watch that morning, when we were making for St. +Pierre, so I supposed at first when the fire struck us that he was +asleep in his bunk and safe. But he wasn't. Nobody could tell me +where he was. I don't know whether he was burned to death or +rolled overboard and drowned. He was a likely boy. He had been +several voyages with me and would have been a master some day. He +used to say he'd make me mate. + +"After getting all hands that had any life left in them below and +'tended to the best we could, the four of us that were left half +way ship-shape started in to fight the fire. We had case oil +stowed forward. Thanks to that tidal wave that cleared our decks +there wasn't much left to burn, so we got the fire down so's we +could live on board with it for several hours more and then the +four turned to to knock a raft together out of what timber and +truck we could find below. Our boats had gone overboard with the +masts and funnel. + + +PREPARED TO TRUST TO LUCK + + +"We made that raft for something over thirty that were alive. We +put provisions on for two days and rigged up a make-shift mast and +sail, for we intended to go to sea. We were only three boats' +length from the shore, but the shore was hell itself. We intended +to put straight out and trust to luck that the Korona, that was +about due at St. Pierre, would pick us up. But we did not have to +risk the raft, for about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, when we were +almost ready to put the raft overboard, the Suchet came along and +took us all off. We thought for a minute just after we were +wrecked that we were to get help from a ship that passed us. We +burned blue lights, but she kept on. We learned afterward that she +was the Roddam." + +Soundings made off Martinique after the explosion showed that +earthquake effects of much importance had taken place under the sea +bottom, which had been lifted in some places and had sunk in +others. While deep crevices had been formed on the land, a still +greater effect had seemingly been produced beneath the water. +During the explosion the sea withdrew several hundred feet from its +shore line, and then came back steaming with fury; this indicating +a lift and fall of the ocean bed off the isle. Soundings made +subsequently near the island found in one place a depth of 4,000 +feet where before it had been only 600 feet deep. The French Cable +Company, which was at work trying to repair the cables broken by +the eruption, found the bottom of the Caribbean Sea so changed as +to render the old charts useless. + +New charts will need to be made for future navigation. The changes +in sea levels were not confined to the immediate centre of volcanic +activity, but extended as far north as Porto Rico, and it was +believed that the seismic wave would be found to have altered the +ocean bed round Jamaica. Vessels plying between St. Thomas, +Martinique, St. Lucia and other islands found it necessary to heave +the lead while many miles at sea. + +It is estimated that the sea had encroached from ten feet to two +miles along the coast of St. Vincent near Georgetown, and that a +section on the north of the island had dropped into the sea. +Soundings showed seven fathoms where before the eruption there were +thirty-six fathoms of water. Vessels that endeavored to approach +St. Vincent toward the north reported that it was impossible to get +nearer than eight miles to the scene of the catastrophe, and that +at that distance the ocean was seriously perturbed as from a +submarine volcano, boiling and hissing continually. + +In this connection the remarkable experience reported by the +officers of the Danish steamship Nordby, on the day preceding the +eruption, is of much interest, as seeming to show great convulsions +of the sea bottom at a point several hundred miles from Martinique. +The following is the story told by Captain Eric Lillien-skjold: + + +THE STRANGE EXPERIENCE OF THE "NORDBY" + + +"On May 5th," the captain said, "we touched at St. Michael's for +water. We had had an easy voyage from Girgenti, in Sicily, and we +wanted to finish an easy run here. We left St. Michael's on the +same day. Nothing worth while talking about occurred until two +days afterward--Wednesday, May 7th. + +"We were plodding along slowly that day. About noon I took the +bridge to make an observation. It seemed to be hotter than +ordinary. I shed my coat and vest and got into what little shade +there was. As I worked it grew hotter and hotter. I didn't know +what to make of it. Along about 2 o'clock in the afternoon it was +so hot that all hands got to talking about it. We reckoned that +something queer was coming off, but none of us could explain what +it was. You could almost see the pitch softening in the seams. + +"Then, as quick as you could toss a biscuit over its rail, the +Nordby dropped--regularly dropped--three or four feet down into the +sea. No sooner did it do this than big waves, that looked like +they were coming from all directions at once, began to smash +against our sides. This was queerer yet, because the water a +minute before was as smooth as I ever saw it. I had all hands +piped on deck and we battened down everything loose to make ready +for a storm. And we got it all right--the strangest storm you ever +heard tell of. + +"There was something wrong with the sun that afternoon. It grew +red and then dark red and then, about a quarter after 2, it went +out of sight altogether. The day got so dark that you couldn't see +half a ship's length ahead of you. We got our lamps going, and put +on our oilskins, ready for a hurricane. All of a sudden there came +a sheet of lightning that showed up the whole tumbling sea for +miles and miles. We sort of ducked, expecting an awful crash of +thunder, but it didn't come. There was no sound except the big +waves pounding against our sides. There wasn't a breath of wind. + +"Well, sir, at that minute there began the most exciting time I've +ever been through, and I've been on every sea on the map for +twenty-five years. Every second there'd be waves 15 or 20 feet +high, belting us head-on, stern-on and broadside, all at once. We +could see them coming, for without any stop at all flash after +flash of lightning was blazing all about us. + +"Something else we could see, too. Sharks! There were hundreds of +them on all sides, jumping up and down in the water. Some of them +jumped clear out of it. And sea birds! A flock of them, squawking +and crying, made for our rigging and perched there. They seemed +like they were scared to death. But the queerest part of it all +was the water itself. It was hot--not so hot that our feet could +not stand it when it washed over the deck, but hot enough to make +us think that it had been heated by some kind of a fire. + +"Well that sort of thing went on hour after hour. The waves, the +lightning, the hot water and the sharks, and all the rest of the +odd things happening, frightened the crew out of their wits. Some +of them prayed out loud--I guess the first time they ever did in +their lives. Some Frenchmen aboard kept running around and +yelling, 'Cest le dernier jour!' (This is the last day.) We were +all worried. Even the officers began to think that the world was +coming to an end. Mighty strange things happen on the sea, but +this topped them all. + +"I kept to the bridge all night. When the first hour of morning +came the storm was still going on. We were all pretty much tired +out by that time, but there was no such thing as trying to sleep. +The waves still were batting us around and we didn't know whether +we were one mile or a thousand miles from shore. At 2 o'clock in +the morning all the queer goings on stopped just the way they +began--all of a sudden. We lay to until daylight; then we took our +reckonings and started off again. We were about 700 miles off Cape +Henlopen. + +"No, sir; you couldn't get me through a thing like that again for +$10,000. None of us was hurt, and the old Nordby herself pulled +through all right, but I'd sooner stay ashore than see waves +without wind and lightning without thunder." + + +FIERY STREAM CONTAINED POISONOUS GASES + + +Careful inspection showed that the fiery stream which so completely +destroyed St. Pierre must have been composed of poisonous gases, +which instantly suffocated every one who inhaled them, and of other +gases burning furiously, for nearly all the victims had their hands +covering their mouths, or were in some other attitude showing that +they had perished from suffocation. + +It is believed that Mont Pelee threw off a great gasp of some +exceedingly heavy and noxious gas, something akin to firedamp, +which settled upon the city and rendered the inhabitants +insensible. This was followed by the sheet of flame that swept +down the side of the mountain. This theory is sustained by the +experience of the survivors who were taken from the ships in the +harbor, as they say that their first experience was one of +faintness. + +The dumb animals were wiser than man, and early took warning of the +storm of fire which Mont Pelee was storing up to hurl upon the +island. Even before the mountain began to rumble, late in April, +live stock became uneasy, and at times were almost uncontrollable. +Cattle lowed in the night. Dogs howled and sought the company of +their masters, and when driven forth they gave every evidence of +fear. + +Wild animals disappeared from the vicinity of Mont Pelee. Even the +snakes, which at ordinary times are found in great numbers near the +volcano, crawled away. Birds ceased singing and left the trees +that shaded the sides of Pelee. A great fear seemed to be upon the +island, and though it was shared by the human inhabitants, they +alone neglected to protect themselves. + +Of the villages in the vicinity of St. Pierre only one escaped, the +others suffering the fate of the city. The fortunate one was Le +Carbet, on the south, which escaped uninjured, the flood of lava +stopping when within two hundred feet of the town. Morne Rouge, a +beautiful summer resort, frequented by the people of the island +during the hot season as a place of recreation, also escaped. In +the height of the season several thousand people gathered there, +though at the time of the explosion there were but a few hundred. +Though located on an elevation between the city and the crater, it +was by great good fortune saved. + +The Governor of Martinique, Mr. Mouttet, whose precautions to +prevent the people fleeing from the city aided to make the work of +death complete, was himself among the victims of the burning +mountain. With him in this fate was Colonel Dain, commander of the +troops who formed a cordon round the doomed city. + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +St. Vincent Island and Mont Soufriere in 1812. + + +Among all the islands of the Caribbees St. Vincent is unique in +natural wonders and beauties. Situated about ninety-five miles +west of Barbados, it has a length of eighteen and a width of eleven +miles, the whole mass being largely composed of a single peak which +rises from the ocean's bed. From north to south volcanic hills +traverse its length, their ridges intersected by fertile and +beautiful valleys. + +A ridge of mountains crosses the island, dividing it into eastern +and western parts. Kingstown, the capital, a town of 8,000 +inhabitants, is on the southward side and extends along the shores +of a beautiful bay, with mountains gradually rising behind it in +the form of a vast amphitheatre. Three streets, broad and lined +with good houses, run parallel to the water-front. There are many +other intersecting highways, some of which lead back to the +foothills, from which good roads ascend the mountains. + +The majority of the houses have red tile roofing and a goodly +number of them are of stone, one story high, with thick walls after +the Spanish style--the same types of houses that were in St. Pierre +and which are not unlike the old Roman houses which in all stages +of ruin and semi-preservation are found in Pompeii to this day. + +Behind the general group of the houses of the town loom the +Governor's residence and the buildings of the botanical gardens +which overlook the town. + +Kingstown is the trading centre and the town of importance in the +island. It contains the churches and chapels of five Protestant +denominations and a number of excellent schools. Away from +Kingstown, and the smaller settlement of Georgetown, the population +is almost wholly rural, occupying scattered villages which consist +of negro huts clustering around a few substantial buildings or of +cabins grouped about old plantation buildings somewhat after the +ante-bellum fashion in our own Southern States. + +One of the tragedies of the West Indies was the sinking of old Port +Royal, the resort of buccaneers, in 1692. The harbor of Kingstown +is commonly supposed to cover the site of the old settlement. +There is a tradition that a buoy for many years was attached to the +spire of a sunken church in order to warn mariners. Three thousand +persons perished in the disaster. + + +DESCENDANTS OF ORIGINAL INDIAN POPULATION + + +The northern portion of the island, that desolated by the recent +volcanic eruption, was inhabited by people living in the manner +just described, the great majority of them being negroes. The +total population of the island is about 45,000, of whom 30,000 are +Africans and about 3,000 Europeans, the remainder being nearly all +Asiatics. There are, or rather were, a number of Caribs, the +descendants of the original warlike Indian population of these +islands. Many of these live in St. Vincent, though there are +others in Dominico. As their residence was in the northern section +of the island, the volcano seems to have completed the work for the +Caribs of this island which the Spaniard long ago began. These +Caribs were really half-breds, having amalgamated with the negroes. +Many of the blacks own land of their own, raising arrow root, +which, since the decay of the sugar industry, is the chief export. + +In an island only eighteen miles long by eleven broad there is not +room for any distinctly marked mountain range. The whole of St. +Vincent, in fact, is a fantastic tumble of hills, culminating in +the volcanic ridge which runs lengthwise of the oval-shaped island. +The culminating peak of the great volcanic mass, for St. Vincent is +nothing more, is Mont Garou, of which La Soufriere is a sort of +lofty excrescence in the northwest, 4,048 feet high, and flanking +the main peak at some distance away. + +It may be said that all the volcanic mountains in this part of the +West Indies have what the people call a "soufriere"--a "sulphur +pit," or "sulphur crater"--the name coming, as in the case of past +disturbances of Mont Pelee, from the strong stench of sulphuretted +hydrogen which issues from them when the volcano becomes agitated. + +In 1812 it was La Soufriere adjacent to Mont Garou which broke +loose on the island of St. Vincent, and it is the same Soufriere +which again has devastated the island and has bombarded Kingstown +with rocks, lava and ashes. + +The old crater of Mont Garou has long been extinct, and, like the +old crater of Mont Pelee, near St. Pierre, it had far down in its +depths, surrounded by sheer cliffs from 500 to 800 feet high, a +lake. Glimpses of the lake of Mont Garou are difficult to get, +owing to the thick verdure growing about the dangerous edges of the +precipices, but those who have seen it describe it as a beautiful +sheet of deep blue water. + + +THE APPEARANCE OF THE SOUFRIERE + + +Previous to the eruption of 1812 the appearance of the Soufriere +was most interesting. The crater was half a mile in diameter and +five hundred feet in depth. In its centre was a conical hill, +fringed with shrubs and vines; at whose base were two small lakes, +one sulphurous, the other pure and tasteless. This lovely and +beautiful spot was rendered more interesting by the singularly +melodious notes of a bird, an inhabitant of these upper solitudes, +and altogether unknown to the other parts of the island--hence +called, or supposed to be, "invisible," as it had never been seen. +(It is of interest to state that Frederick A. Ober, in a visit to +the island some twenty years ago, succeeded in obtaining specimens +of this previously unknown bird.) From the fissures of the cone a +thin white smoke exuded, occasionally tinged with a light blue +flame. Evergreens, flowers and aromatic shrubs clothed the steep +sides of the crater, which made, as the first indication of the +eruption on April 27, 1812, a tremulous noise in the air. A severe +concussion of the earth followed, and then a column of thick black +smoke burst from the crater. + + +THE ERUPTION OF 1812 + + +The eruption which followed these premonitory symptoms was one of +the most terrific which had occurred in the West Indies up to that +time. It was the culminating event which seemed to relieve a +pressure within the earth's crust which extended from the +Mississippi Valley to Caracas, Venezuela, producing terrible +effects in the latter place. Here, thirty-five days before the +volcanic explosion, the ground was rent and shaken by a frightful +earthquake which hurled the city in ruins to the ground and killed +ten thousand of its inhabitants in a moment of time. + +La Soufriere made the first historic display of its hidden powers +in 1718, when lava poured from its crater. A far more violent +demonstration of its destructive forces was that above mentioned. +On this occasion the eruption lasted for three days, ruining a +number of the estates in the vicinity and destroying many lives. +Myriads of tons of ashes, cinders, pumice and scoriae, hurled from +the crater, fell in every section of the island. Volumes of sand +darkened the air, and woods, ridges and cane fields were covered +with light gray ashes, which speedily destroyed all vegetation. +The sun for three days seemed to be in a total eclipse, the sea was +discolored and the ground bore a wintry appearance from the white +crust of fallen ashes. + +Carib natives who lived at Morne Rond fled from their houses to +Kingstown. As the third day drew to a close flames sprang +pyramidically from the crater, accompanied by loud thunder and +electric flashes, which rent the column of smoke hanging over the +volcano. Eruptive matter pouring from the northwest side plunged +over the cliff, carrying down rocks and woods in its course. The +island was shaken by an earthquake and bombarded with showers of +cinders and stones, which set houses on fire and killed many of the +natives. + + +THE TERRIBLE EARTHQUAKE AT CARACAS + + +For nearly two years before this explosion earthquakes had been +common, and sea and land had been agitated from the valley of the +Mississippi to the coasts of Venezuela and the mountains of New +Grenada, and from the Azores to the West Indies. On March 26, +1812, these culminated in the terrible tragedy, spoken of above, of +which Humboldt gives us a vivid account. + +On that day the people of the Venezuelan city of Caracas were +assembled in the churches, beneath a still and blazing sky, when +the earth suddenly heaved and shook, like a great monster waking +from slumber, and in a single minute 10,000 people were buried +beneath the walls of churches and houses, which tumbled in hideous +ruin upon their heads. The same earthquake made itself felt along +the whole line of the Northern Cordilleras, working terrible +destruction, and shook the earth as far as Santa Fe de Bogota and +Honda, 180 leagues from Caracas. This was a preliminary symptom of +the internal disorder of the earth. + +While the wretched inhabitants of Caracas who had escaped the +earthquake were dying of fever and starvation, and seeking among +villages and farms places of safety from the renewed earthquake +shocks, the almost forgotten volcano of St. Vincent was muttering +in suppressed wrath. For twelve months it had given warning, by +frequent shocks of the earth, that it was making ready to play its +part in the great subterranean battle. On the 27th of April its +deep-hidden powers broke their bonds, and the conflict between rock +and fire began. + + +THE MOUNTAIN STONES A HERD-BOY + + +The first intimation of the outbreak was rather amusing than +alarming. A negro boy was herding cattle on the mountain side. A +stone fell near him. Another followed. He fancied that some other +boys were pelting him from the cliff above, and began throwing +stones upward at his fancied concealed tormentors. But the stones +fell thicker, among them some too large to be thrown by any human +hand. Only then did the little fellow awake to the fact that it +was not a boy like himself, but the mighty mountain, that was +flinging these stones at him. He looked up and saw that the black +column which was rising from the crater's mouth was no longer +harmless vapor, but dust, ashes and stones. Leaving the cattle to +their fate, he fled for his life, while the mighty cannon of the +Titans roared behind him as he ran. For three days and nights this +continued; then, on the 30th, a stream of lava poured over the +crater's rim and rushed downward, reaching the sea in four hours, +and the great eruption was at an end. + +On the same day, says Humboldt, at a distance of more than 200 +leagues, "the inhabitants not only of Caracas, but of Calabozo, +situated in the midst of the Lianos, over a space of 4,000 square +leagues, were terrified by a subterranean noise which resembled +frequent discharges of the heaviest cannon. It was accompanied by +no shock, and, what is very remarkable, was as loud on the coast as +at eighty leagues' distance inland, and at Caracas, as well as at +Calabozo, preparations were made to put the place in defence +against an enemy who seemed to be advancing with heavy artillery." + +It was no enemy that man could deal with. Fortunately, it confined +its assault to deep noises, and desisted from earthquake shocks. +Similar noises were heard in Martinique and Guadeloupe, and here +also without shocks. The internal thunder was the signal of what +was taking place on St. Vincent. With this last warning sound the +trouble, which had lasted so long, was at an end. The earthquakes +which for two years had shaken a sheet of the earth's surface +larger than half Europe, were stilled by the eruption of St. +Vincent's volcanic peak. + + +BARBADOS COVERED WITH ASHES + + +Northeast of the original crater of the Soufriere a new one was +formed which was a half mile in diameter and five hundred feet +deep. The old crater was in time transformed into a beautiful blue +lake, as above stated, walled in by ragged cliffs to a height of +eight hundred feet. + +It was looked upon as a remarkable circumstance that although the +air was perfectly calm during the eruption, Barbados, which is +ninety-five miles to the windward, was covered inches deep with +ashes. The inhabitants there and on other neighboring islands were +terrified by the darkness, which continued for four hours and a +half. Troops were called under arms, the supposition from the +continued noise being that hostile fleets were in an engagement. + +The movement of the ashes to windward, as just stated, was viewed +as a remarkable phenomenon, and is cited by Elise Reclus, in "The +Ocean," to show the force of different aerial currents; "On the +first day of May, 1812, when the northeast trade-wind was in all +its force, enormous quantities of ashes obscured the atmosphere +above the Island of Barbados, and covered the ground with a thick +layer. One would have supposed that they came from the volcanoes +of the Azores, which were to the northeast; nevertheless they were +cast up by the crater in St. Vincent, one hundred miles to the +west. It is therefore certain that the debris had been hurled, by +the force of the eruption, above the moving sheet of the trade- +winds into an aerial river proceeding in a contrary direction." +For this it must have been hurled miles high into the air, till +caught by the current of the anti-trade winds. + + +KINGSLEY'S VISIT TO SAINT VINCENT + + +From Charles Kingsley's "At Last" we extract, from the account of +the visit of the author to St. Vincent, some interesting matter +concerning the 1812 eruption and its effect on the mountain; also +its influence upon distant Barbados, as just stated. + +"The strangest fact about this eruption was, that the mountain did +not make use of its old crater. The original vent must have become +so jammed and consolidated, in the few years between 1785 and 1812, +that it could not be reopened, even by a steam force the vastness +of which may be guessed at from the vastness of the area which it +had shaken for two years. So, when the eruption was over, it was +found that the old crater-lake, incredible as it may seem, remained +undisturbed, so far as has been ascertained; but close to it, and +separated only by a knife-edge of rock some 700 feet in height, and +so narrow that, as I was assured by one who had seen it, it is +dangerous to crawl along it, a second crater, nearly as large as +the first, had been blasted out, the bottom of which, in like +manner, was afterward filled with water. + +"I regretted much that I could not visit it. Three points I longed +to ascertain carefully--the relative heights of the water in the +two craters; the height and nature of the spot where the lava +stream issued; and, lastly, if possible, the actual causes of the +locally famous Rabacca, or 'Dry River,' one of the largest streams +in the island, which was swallowed up during the eruption, at a +short distance from its source, leaving its bed an arid gully to +this day. But it could not be, and I owe what little I know of the +summit of the soufriere principally to a most intelligent and +gentleman-like young Wesleyan minister, whose name has escaped me. +He described vividly, as we stood together on the deck, looking up +at the volcano, the awful beauty of the twin lakes, and of the +clouds which, for months together, whirl in and out of the cups in +fantastic shapes before the eddies of the trade wind. + + +BLACK SUNDAY AT BARBADOS + + +"The day after the explosion, 'Black Sunday,' gave a proof of, +though no measure of, the enormous force which had been exerted. +Eighty miles to windward lies Barbados. All Saturday a heavy +cannonading had been heard to the eastward. The English and French +fleets were surely engaged. The soldiers were called out; the +batteries manned; but the cannonade died away, and all went to bed +in wonder. On the 1st of May the clocks struck six, but the sun +did not, as usual in the tropics, answer to the call. The darkness +was still intense, and grew more intense as the morning wore on. A +slow and silent rain of impalpable dust was falling over the whole +island. The negroes rushed shrieking into the streets. Surely the +last day was come. The white folk caught (and little blame to +them) the panic, and some began to pray who had not prayed for +years. The pious and the educated (and there were plenty of both +in Barbados) were not proof against the infection. Old letters +describe the scene in the churches that morning as hideous-- +prayers, sobs, and cries, in Stygian darkness, from trembling +crowds. And still the darkness continued and the dust fell. + + +INCIDENTS AT BARBADOS + + +"I have a letter written by one long since dead, who had at least +powers of description of no common order, telling how, when he +tried to go out of his house upon the east coast, he could not find +the trees on his own lawn save by feeling for their stems. He +stood amazed not only in utter darkness, but in utter silence; for +the trade-wind had fallen dead, the everlasting roar of the surf +was gone, and the only noise was the crashing of branches, snapped +by the weight of the clammy dust. He went in again, and waited. +About one o'clock the veil began to lift; a lurid sunlight stared +in from the horizon, but all was black overhead. Gradually the +dust drifted away; the island saw the sun once more, and saw itself +inches deep in black, and in this case fertilizing, dust. The +trade-wind blew suddenly once more out of the clear east, and the +surf roared again along the shore. + +"Meanwhile a heavy earthquake-wave had struck part at least of the +shores of Barbados. The gentleman on the east coast, going out, +found traces of the sea, and boats and logs washed up some ten to +twenty feet above high-tide mark; a convulsion which seemed to have +gone unmarked during the general dismay. + +"One man at least, an old friend of John Hunter, Sir Joseph Banks +and others their compeers, was above the dismay, and the +superstitious panic which accompanied it. Finding it still dark +when he rose to dress, he opened (so the story used to run) his +window; found it stick, and felt upon the sill a coat of soft +powder. "The volcano in St. Vincent has broken out at last,' said +the wise man, 'and this is the dust of it.' So he quieted his +household and his negroes, lighted his candles, and went to his +scientific books, in that delight, mingled with an awe not the less +deep, because it is rational and self-possessed, with which he, +like the other men of science, looked at the wonders of this +wondrous world." + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +Submarine Volcanoes and their Work of Island Building. + + +In November, 1867, a volcano suddenly began to show signs of +activity beneath the deep sea of the Pacific Ocean. There are some +islands nearly two thousands miles to the east of Australia called +the Navigator's Group, in which there had been no history of an +eruption, nor had such an event been handed down by tradition. +Most of the islands in the Pacific Ocean are old volcanoes, or are +made up of rocks cast forth from extinct burning mountains. They +rise up like peaks through the great depths of the ocean, and the +top, which just appears above the sea-level, is generally encircled +by a growth of coral. Hence they are termed coral islands. These +islands every now and then rise higher than the sea-level, owing to +some deep upheaving force, and then the coral is lifted up above +the water, and become a solid rock. But occasionally the reverse +of this takes place, and the islands begin to sink into the sea, +owing to a force which causes the base of the submarine mountain to +become depressed. Sometimes they disappear. All this shows that +some great disturbing forces are in action at the bottom of the +sea, and just within the earth's crust, and that they are of a +volcanic nature. + +For some time before the eruption in question, earthquakes shook +the surrounding islands of the Navigator's Group, and caused great +alarm, and when the trembling of the earth was very great, the sea +began to be agitated near one of the islands, and vast circles of +disturbed water were formed. Soon the water began to be forced +upwards, and dead fish were seen floating about. After a while, +steam rushed forth, and jets of mud and volcanic sand. Moreover, +when the steam began to rush up out of the water, the violence of +the general agitation of the land and of the surface of the sea +increased. + + +AN ERUPTION DESCRIBED + + +When the eruption was at its height vast columns of mud and masses +of stone rushed into the air to a height of 2,000 feet, and the +fearful crash of masses of rock hurled upwards and coming in +collision with others which were falling attested the great volume +of ejected matter which accumulated in the bed of the ocean, +although no trace of a volcano could be seen above the surface of +the sea. Similar submarine volcanic action has been observed in +the Atlantic Ocean, and crews of ships have reported that they have +seen in different places sulphurous smoke, flame, jets of water, +and steam, rising up from the sea, or they have observed the waters +greatly discolored and in a state of violent agitation, as if +boiling in large circles. + +New shoals have also been encountered, or a reef of rocks just +emerging above the surface, where previously there was always +supposed to have been deep water. On some few occasions, the +gradual building up of an island by submarine volcanoes has been +observed, as that of Sabrina in 1181, off St. Michael's, in the +Azores. The throwing up of ashes in this case, and the formation +of a conical hill 300 feet high, with a crater out of which spouted +lava and steam, took place very rapidly. But the waves had the +best of it, and finally washed Sabrina into the depths of the +ocean. Previous eruptions in the same part of the sea were +recorded as having happened in 1691 and 1720. + +In 1831, a submarine volcanic eruption occurred in the +Mediterranean Sea, between Sicily and that part of the African +coast where Carthage formerly stood. A few years before, Captain +Smyth had sounded the spot in a survey of the sea ordered by +Government, and he found the sea-bottom to be under 500 feet of +water. On June 28, about a fortnight before the eruption was +visible, Sir Pulteney Malcom, in passing over the spot in his ship, +felt the shock of an earthquake as if he had struck on a sandbank, +and the same shocks were felt on the west coast of Sicily, in a +direction from south-west to north-east. + + +BUILDING UP OF AN ISLAND BY SUBMARINE VOLCANOES + + +About July 10, the captain of a Sicilian vessel reported that as he +passed near the place he saw a column of water like a waterspout, +sixty feet high, and 800 yards in circumference, rising from the +sea, and soon after a dense rush of steam in its place, which +ascended to the height of 1,800 feet. The same captain, on his +return eighteen days after, found a small island twelve feet high, +with a crater in its centre, throwing forth volcanic matter and +immense columns of vapor, the sea around being covered with +floating cinders and dead fish. The eruption continued with great +violence to the end of the same month. By the end of the month the +island grew to ninety feet in height, and measured three-quarters +of a mile round. By August 4th it became 200 feet high and three +miles in circumference; after which it began to diminish in size by +the action of the waves. Towards the end of October the island was +levelled nearly to the surface of the sea. + +Naval officers and foreign ministers alike took an absorbing +interest in this new island. The strong national thirst for +territory manifested itself and eager mariners waited only till the +new land should be cool enough to set foot on to strive who should +be first to plant there his country's flag. Names in abundance +were given it by successive observers,--Nerita, Sciacca, +Fernandina, Julia, Hotham, Corrao, and Graham. The last holds good +in English speech, and as Graham's Island it is known in books to- +day, though the sea took back what it had given, leaving but a +shoal of cinders and sand. + +The Bay of Santorin, in the island of that name, which lies +immediately to the north of Crete, has long been noted for its +submarine volcanoes. According to one account, indeed, the whole +island was at a remote period raised from the bottom of the sea; +but this is questionable. It is, with more reason, supposed that +the bay is the site of an ancient crater, which was situated on the +summit of a volcanic cone that subsequently fell in. Certain it is +that islands have from time to time been thrown up by volcanic +forces from the bottom of the sea within this bay, and that some of +them have remained, while others have sunk again. + + +HOW AN ISLAND GREW + + +Of the existing islands, some were thrown up shortly before the +beginning of the Christian era; in particular, one called the Great +Cammeni, which, however, received a considerable accession to its +size by a fresh eruption in A. D. 726. The islet nearest Santorin +was raised in 1573, and was named the Little Cammeni; and in 1707 +there was added, between the other two, a third, which is now +called the Black Island. This made its appearance above water on +the 23rd of May, 1707, and was first mistaken for a wreck; but some +sailors, who landed on it, found it to be a mass of rock; +consisting of a very white soft stone, to which were adhering +quantities of fresh oysters. While they were collecting these, a +violent shaking of the ground scared them away. + +During several weeks the island gradually increased in volume; but +in July, at a distance of about sixty paces from the new islet, +there was thrown up a chain of black calcined rocks, followed by +volumes of thick black smoke, having a sulphurous smell. A few +days thereafter the water all around the spot became hot, and many +dead fishes were thrown up. Then, with loud subterraneous noises, +flames arose, and fresh quantities of stones and other substances +were ejected, until the chain of black rocks became united to the +first islet that had appeared. This eruption continued for a long +time, there being thrown out quantities of ashes and pumice, which +covered the island of Santorin and the surface of the sea--some +being drifted to the coasts of Asia Minor and the Dardanelles. The +activity of this miniature volcano was prolonged, with greater or +less energy, for about ten years. + +In 1866 similar phenomena took place in the Bay of Santorin, +beginning with underground sounds and slight shocks of earthquake, +which were followed by the appearance of flames on the surface of +the sea. Soon after there arose, out of a dense smoke, a small +islet, which gradually increased until in a week's time it was 60 +feet high, 200 long and 90 wide. The people of Santorin named it +"George," in honor of the King of Greece. In another week it +joined and became continuous with the Little Cammeni. The +detonations increased in loudness, and large quantities of +incandescent stones were thrown up from the crater. + +About the same time, at the distance of nearly 150 feet from the +coast, to the westward of a point called Cape Phlego, there rose +from the sea another island, to which was given the name of +Aphroessa. It sank and reappeared several times before it +established itself above water. The detonations and ejection of +incandescent lava and stones continued at intervals during three +weeks. From the crater of the islet George, which attained a +height of 150 feet, some stones several cubic yards in bulk were +projected to a great distance. One of them falling on board of a +merchant vessel, killed the captain and set fire to the ship. + +By the 10th of March the eruptions had partially subsided, but were +then renewed, and a third island, which was named Reka, rose +alongside of Aphroessa. They were at first separated by a channel +sixty feet deep; but in three days this was filled up, and the two +islets became united. + +Reference may properly be made here to Monte Nuovo and Jorullo, not +that they appertain to the present subject, but that they form +examples of the action of similar forces, in the one instance +exerted on a lake bottom, in the other on dry land, each yielding +permanent volcanic elevations in every respect analogous to those +which rise as islands from the bottom of the sea. + + +IN THE ICELANDIC SEAS + + +Off the coast of Iceland islands have appeared during several of +the volcanic eruptions which that remote dependency of Denmark has +manifested, and at various periods in Iceland's history the sea has +been covered with pumice and other debris, which tell their own +tale of what has been going on, without being in sufficient +quantity to reach the surface in the form of an island mass. The +sea off Reykjanes--Smoky Cape, as the name means--has been a +frequent scene of these submarine eruptions. In 1240, during what +the Icelandic historians describe as the eighth outburst, a number +of islets were formed, though most of them subsequently +disappeared, only to have their places occupied by others born at a +later date. In 1422 high rocks of considerable circumference +appeared. In 1783, about a month before the eruption of Skaptar +Jokull, a volcanic island named Nyoe, from which fire and smoke +issued, was built up. But in time it vanished under the waves, all +that remains of it to-day being a reef from five to thirty-five +fathoms below the sea-level. In 1830, after several long-continued +eruptions of the usual character, another isle arose; while at the +same time the skerries known as the Geirfuglaska disappeared, and +with them vanished the great auks, or gare-fowls--birds now +extinct--which up to that time had bred on them. At all events, +though the auks could not well have been drowned, no traces of them +were seen after the date mentioned. In July, 1884, an island again +appeared about ten miles off Reykjanes; but it is already beginning +to diminish in size, and may soon disappear. + + +OFF THE COAST OF ALASKA + + +Elsewhere in the region of the northern seas there are other +instances of the influence of the submarine forces in raising up +and lowering land. The coast of Alaska is a region of intense +volcanic action. In 1795, during a period of volcanic activity in +the craters of Makushina, on Unalaska, and in others on Umnak +Island, a volume of smoke was seen to rise out of the sea about 42 +miles to the north of Unalaska, and the next year it was followed +by a heap of cindery material, from which arose flame and volcanic +matter, the glow being visible over a radius of ten miles. In four +years the island grew into a large cone, 3000 feet above the sea- +level, and two or three miles in circumference. Two years later it +was still so hot that when some hunters landed on it they found the +soil too warm for walking. It was named Ionna Bogoslova (St. John +the Theologian), by the Russians, Agashagok by the Aleuts, and is +now known to the whites of that region as Bogosloff. Mr. Dall +believes that it occupies the site of some rocks that existed there +as long as tradition extends. + +There were additions to the cone up to the year 1823, when it +became so quiescent as to be the favorite haunt of seals and sea- +fowls, and, when the weather was favorable, was visited by native +egg-hunters from Unalaska. During the summer of 1883 Bogosloff was +again seen in eruption, as it was thought. However, on closely +examining the neighborhood, it was found that the old island was +undisturbed, but that there had been a fresh eruption, which had +resulted in the extension of Bogosloff by the appearance of a cone +and crater (Hague Volcano), 357 feet high, connected with the +parent island by a low sand-spit, and situated in a spot where, the +year before, the lead showed 800 fathoms of water. At the same +time Augustin and two other previously quiet islands on the +peninsula of Alaska began simultaneously to emit smoke, dust and +ashes, while a reef running westward and formerly submerged became +elevated to the sea surface. Other islands, of origin exactly +similar to Bogosloff and those mentioned, are to be found in this +region, notably Koniugi and Kasatochi, in the western Aleutians, +and Pinnacle Island, near St. Matthew Island. Indeed, the volcano +of Kliutchevsk, which rises to a height of over 15,000 feet, is +really a volcanic island. + +A permanent addition was made to the Aleutian group of Islands by +the action of a submarine volcano in 1806. This new island has the +form of a volcanic peak, with several subsidiary cones. It is four +geographical miles in circumference. In 1814 another arose out of +the sea in the same archipelago, the cone of which attained a +height of 3,000 feet; but at the end of a year it lost a portion of +this elevation. + +In 1856, in the sea in the same neighborhood, Captain Newell, of +the whaling bark Alice Fraser, witnessed a submarine eruption, +which was also seen by the crews of several other vessels. There +was no island formed on this occasion, but large jets of water were +thrown up, and the sea was greatly agitated all around. Then +followed volcanic smoke, and quantities of stones, ashes, and +pumice; the two latter being scattered over the surface of the sea +to a great distance. Loud thundering reports accompanied this +eruption, and all the ships in the neighborhood felt concussions +like those produced by an earthquake. These phenomena seem to have +ended in the formation of some great submarine chasm, into which +the waters rushed with extreme violence and a terrific roar. + +Occurrences similar to this last have been several times observed +in a tract of open sea in the Atlantic, about half a degree south +of the equator, and between 20 and 22 degrees of west longitude. +Although quantities of volcanic dross have been from time to time +thrown up to the surface in this region, no island has yet made its +appearance above water. + +The events here described repeat on a far smaller scale similar +ones which have occurred in remote ages in many parts of the ocean +and left great island masses as the permanent effects of their +work. We may instance the Hawaiian group, which is wholly of +volcanic origin, with the exception of its minor coral additions, +and represents a stupendous activity of underground agencies +beneath the domain of Father Neptune. + +In part, as we have said elsewhere in this work, all oceanic +islands, remote from those in the shoal bordering waters of the +continents, have been of volcanic or coral formation, or more often +a combination of the two. No sooner does an island mass appear +above or near the surface of tropical waters than the minute coral +animals--effective only by their myriads--begin their labors, +building fringes of coral rock around the cindery heaps lifted from +the ocean floor. The atolls of the Pacific--circular or oval rings +of coral with lagunes of sea-water within--have long been thought +to be built on the rims of submarine volcanoes, rising to within a +few hundred feet of the surface, much as coral reefs around actual +islands. If the volcanic mass should subsequently subside, as it +is likely to do, the minute ocean builders will continue their +work--unless the subsidence be too rapid for their powers of +production--and in this way ring-like islands of coral may in time +rise from great depths of sea, their basis being the volcanic +island which has sunk from near the surface far toward old ocean's +primal floor. + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +Mud Volcanoes, Geysers, and Hot Springs. + + +Our usual impression of a volcano is indicated in the title of +"burning mountain," so often employed, a great fire-spouting cone +of volcanic debris, from which steam, lava, rock-masses, cinder- +like fragments, and dust, often of extreme fineness, are flung high +into the air or flow in river-like torrents of molten rock. This, +no doubt, applies in the majority of cases, but the volcanic forces +do not confine themselves to these magnificent displays of energy, +nor are their products limited to those above specified. We have +seen that mud is a not uncommon product, due to the mingling of +water with volcanic dust, while water alone is occasionally +emitted, of which we have a marked instance in the Volcan de Agua, +of Guatemala, already mentioned. As regards mud flows, we may +specially instance the first outflow from Mont Pelee, that by which +the Guerin sugar works were overwhelmed. + +The imprisoned forces of the earth have still other modes of +manifestation. A very frequent one of these, and the most +destructive to human life of them all, is the earthquake. + +Minor manifestations of volcanic action may be seen in the geyser +and the hot spring, the latter the most widely disseminated of all +the resultant effects of the heated condition of the earth's +interior. It is these displays of subterranean energy, differing +from those usually termed volcanic, yet due to the same general +causes, that we have next to consider. And it may be premised that +their manifestations, while, except in the case of the earthquake, +less violent, are no less interesting, especially as the minor +displays are free from that peril to human life which renders the +major ones so terrible. + +While the largest volcanoes at times pour out rivers of liquid mud, +there are volcanoes from which nothing is ever ejected but mud and +water, the latter being generally salt. From this circumstance +they are sometimes called salses, but they are more generally +termed mud-volcanoes. Some varieties of them throw out little else +than gases of different sorts, and these are called air-volcanoes. + + +THE GREAT MUD VOLCANO OF SICILY + + +One of the best known mud-volcanoes is at Macaluba, near Girgenti, +in Sicily. It consists of several conical mounds, varying from +time to time in their form and height, which ranges from eight to +thirty feet. From orifices on the tops of these mounds there are +thrown out sometimes jets of warmish water and mud mixed with +bitumen, sometimes bubbles of gas, chiefly carbonic acid and +carburetted hydrogen, occasionally pure nitrogen. The mud ejected +has often a strong sulphurous smell. The jets in general ascend +only to a moderate height; but occasionally they are thrown up with +great violence, attaining a height of about 200 feet. In 1777 +there was ejected an immense column, consisting of mud strongly +impregnated with sulphur and mixed with naphtha and stones, +accompanied also by quantities of sulphurous vapors. This mud- +volcano is known to have been in action for fifteen centuries. + +Very recently a small mud-volcano has been formed on the flanks of +Mount Etna. It began with the throwing up of jets of boiling +water, mixed with petroleum and mud, great quantities of gas +bubbling up at the same time. In several of the valleys of Iceland +there are similar phenomena, the boiling water and mud being thrown +up in jets to the height of fifteen feet and upwards, the mud +accumulating around the orifices whence the jets arise. + +A mud-volcano named Korabetoff, in the Crimea, presents phenomena +more akin to those of the igneous volcanoes of South America. +There was an eruption from this mountain on the 6th of August, +1853. It began by throwing up from the summit a column of fire and +smoke, which ascended to a great height. This continued for five +or six minutes, and was followed at short intervals by two similar +eruptions. There was then ejected with a hissing noise a quantity +of black fetid mud, which was so hot as to scorch the grass on the +edges of the stream. The mud continued to pour out for three +hours, covering a wide space at the mountain's base. The mud- +volcanoes on the coast of Beloochistan are very numerous, and +extend over an area of nearly a thousand square miles. Their +action resembles that at Macaluba. + + +THE MUD VOLCANO OF JAVA + + +There is a mud volcano in Java which is of interest as somewhat +resembling the geyser in its mode of operation and apparently due +to similar agencies. It is thus described by Dr. Horsfield:-- + +"On approaching it from a distance, it is first discovered by a +large volume of smoke, rising and disappearing at intervals of a +few seconds, resembling the vapors rising from a violent surf. A +loud noise is heard, like that of distant thunder. Having advanced +so near that the vision was no longer impeded by the smoke, a large +hemispherical mass was observed, consisting of black earth mixed +with water, about sixteen feet in diameter, rising to the height of +twenty or thirty feet in a perfectly regular manner, and as if it +were pushed up by a force beneath, which suddenly exploded with a +loud noise, and scattered about a volume of black mud in every +direction. After an interval of two or three, or sometimes four or +five seconds, the hemispherical body of mud rose and exploded +again. In the manner stated this volcanic ebullition goes on +without interruption, throwing up a globular body of mud, and +dispersing it with violence through the neighboring plain. The +spot where the ebullition occurs is nearly circular, and perfectly +level. It is covered only with the earthy particles, impregnated +with salt water, which are thrown up from below. The circumference +may be estimated at about half an English mile. In order to +conduct the salt water to the circumference, small passages or +gutters are made in the loose muddy earth, which lead to the +borders, where it is collected in holes dug in the ground for the +purpose of evaporation." + +The mud has a strong, pungent, sulphurous smell, resembling that of +mineral oil, and is hotter than the surrounding atmosphere. During +the rainy season the explosions increase in violence. + +There are submarine mud volcanoes as well as those of igneous kind. +In 1814 one of this character broke out in the Sea of Azof, +beginning with flame and black smoke, accompanied by earth and +stones, which were flung to a great height. Ten of these +explosions occurred, and, after a period of rest, others were heard +during the night. The next morning there was visible above the +water an island of mud some ten feet high. A very similar +occurrence took place in 1827, near Baku, in the Caspian sea. This +began with a flaming display and the ejection of great fragments of +rock. An eruption of mud succeeded. A set of small volcanoes +discovered by Humboldt in Turbaco, in South America, confined their +emissions almost wholly to gases, chiefly nitrogen. + +There is a close connection in character between mud volcanoes and +those intermittent boiling springs named geysers. A good many of +the mud volcanoes throw out jets of boiling water along with the +mud; but in the case of the geysers, the boiling water is ejected +alone, without any visible impregnation, though some mineral in +solution, as silica, carbonate of lime, or sulphur, is usually +present. + + +THE GEYSER IS A WATER VOLCANO + + +The phenomenon of the geyser serves in a measure to support the +theory that steam is an important agent in volcanic action. A +geyser, in fact, may be designated as a water volcano, since it +throws up water only. It comprises a cone or mound, usually only a +few feet high. In the middle of this is a crater-like opening with +a passage leading down into the earth. As in the case of the +volcano, the geyser cone is built up by its own action. In the +boiling water which is ejected there is dissolved a certain amount +of silica. As the water falls and cools this mineral is deposited, +gradually building up a cup-like elevation. The basin of the +geyser is generally full of clear water, with a little steam rising +from its surface; but at intervals an eruption takes place, +sometimes at regular periods, but more often at irregular +intervals. + +Among the largest and best known geysers in the world are those of +Iceland, chief among them being the Great Geyser. Silica is the +mineral with which the waters of this fountain are impregnated, and +the substance which they deposit, as they slowly evaporate, is +named siliceous sinter. Of this material is composed the mound, +six or seven feet high, on which the spring is situated. On the +top of the mound is a large oval basin, about three feet in depth, +measuring in its larger diameter about fifty-six, and in its +shorter about forty-six feet. The centre of this basin is occupied +by a circular well about ten feet in diameter, and between seventy +and eighty feet deep. + +Out of the central well springs a jet of boiling water, at +intervals of six or seven hours. When the fountain is at rest, +both the basin and the well appear quite empty, and no steam is +seen. But on the approach of the moment for action, the water +rises in the well, till it flows over into the basin. Then loud +subterranean explosions are heard, and the ground all round is +violently shaken. + +Instantly, and with immense force, a steaming jet of boiling water, +of the full width of the well, springs up and ascends to a great +height in the air. The top of this large column of water is +enveloped in vast clouds of steam, which diffuse themselves through +the air, rendering it misty. These jets succeed each other with +great rapidity to the number of sixteen or eighteen, the period of +action of the fountain being about five minutes. The last of the +jets generally ascends to the greatest height, usually to about +100, but sometimes to 150 feet; on one occasion it rose to the +great height of 212 feet. Having ejected this great column of +water, the action ceases, and the water that had filled the basin +sinks down into the well. There it remains till the time for the +next eruption, when the same phenomena are repeated. It has been +found that, by throwing large stones into the well, the period of +the eruption may be hastened, while the loudness of the explosions +and the violence of the fountain effect are increased, the stones +being at the same time ejected with great force. + + +ERUPTION CAN BE INDUCED BY ARTIFICIAL MEANS + + +Geysers are found all over the island, presenting various +peculiarities. In the case of one of the smaller ones, which is +called Strokr, or the Churn, an eruption can be induced by +artificial means. A barrow-load of sods is thrown into the crater +of the geyser, with the effect of causing an eruption. The +sensitiveness of Strokr is due to its peculiar form. An observer +states that, "The bore is eight feet in diameter at the top, and +forty-four feet deep. Below twenty-seven feet it contracts to +nineteen inches, so that the turf thrown in completely chokes it. +Steam collects below; a foaming scum covers the surface of the +water, and in a quarter of an hour it surges up the pipe. The +fountain then begins playing, sending its bundles of jets rather +higher than those of the Great Geyser, flinging up the clods of +turf which have been its obstruction like a number of rockets. +This magnificent display continues for a quarter of an hour or +twenty minutes. The erupted water flows back into the pipe from +the curved sides of the bowl. This occasions a succession of +bursts, the last expiring effort, very generally, being the most +magnificent. Strokr gives no warning thumps, like the Great +Geyser, and there is not the same roaring of steam accompanying the +outbreak of the water." + +The same author thus describes an eruption of the Great Geyser, +which occurred about two o'clock in the morning: "A violent +concussion of the ground brought me and my companions to our feet. +We rushed out of the tent in every condition of dishabille and were +in time to see Geyser put forth his full strength. Five strokes +underground were the signal, then an overflow, wetting every side +of the mound. Presently a dome of water rose in the centre of the +basin and fell again, immediately to be followed by a fresh bell, +which sprang into the air fully forty feet high, accompanied by a +roaring burst of steam. Instantly the fountain began to play with +the utmost violence, a column rushing up to the height of ninety or +one hundred feet against the gray night sky, with mighty volumes of +white steam cloud rolling after it and swept off by the breeze to +fall in torrents of hot rain. Jets and lines of water tore their +way through the clouds, or leaped high above its domed mass. The +earth trembled and throbbed during the explosion, then the column +sank, started up again, dropped once more, and seemed to be sucked +back into the earth. We ran to the basin, which was left dry, and +looked down the bore at the water, which was bubbling at the depth +of six feet." + +In the case of Strokr, the cause of this eruption is not difficult +to understand. The narrow part of the channel is choked up by the +turf and the steam, and prevented from escaping. Finally it gains +such force as to drive out the obstacle with a violent explosion, +just as a bottle of fermenting liquor may blow out the cork and +discharge some of its contents. + +Geysers are somewhat abundant phenomena, existing in many parts of +the earth, while striking examples of them are found in the widely +separated regions of Iceland, New Zealand, Japan and the western +United States. In the volcanic region of New Zealand geysers and +their associated hot springs are abundant. It was to their action +that we owed the famous white and pink terraces and the warm lake +of Rotomahana which were ruined by the destructive eruption of +Mount Tarawera, already described. + + +GEYSERS OF THE UNITED STATES + + +The United States is abundantly supplied with hot springs, but +geysers, outside of the Yellowstone region, are found only in +California and Nevada. Those of California exist chiefly in Napa +Valley, north of San Francisco, in a canon or defile. Their waters +are impregnated not with silica, but with sulphur, and they thus +approach more nearly in their character to mud-volcanoes, whose +ejections are, in like manner, much impregnated with that +substance. They are also, like them, collected in groups, there +being no less than one hundred openings within a space of flat +ground a mile square. Owing to their number and proximity, their +individual energy is nothing like so violent as that of the geysers +of Iceland. Their jets seldom rise higher than 20 or 30 feet; but +so great a number playing within so confined a space produces an +imposing effect. The jets of boiling water issue with a loud noise +from little conical mounds, around which the ground is merely a +crust of sulphur. When this crust is penetrated, the boiling water +may be seen underneath. The rocks in the neighborhood of these +fountains are all corroded by the action of the sulphurous vapors. +Nevertheless, within a distance of not more than 50 feet from them, +trees grow without injury to their health. + +Few of these fountains, however, are regular geysers, most of them +discharging only steam. From the Steamboat Geyser this ascends to +a height of from 50 to 100 feet, with a roar like that of the +escape from a steamboat boiler. Associated with the geysers are +numerous hot springs, some clear, some turbid, and variously +impregnated with iron, sulphur or alum. In Nevada the Steamboat +Springs, as they are designated, exist in Washoe Valley, east of +the Virginian range. They come nearer in character to the +Yellowstone geysers, their waters depositing true geyserite, or +silicious concretions. The Volcano Springs, in Lauder County, are +also true geysers, though of small importance. The ground here is +so thickly perforated by holes from which steam escapes that it +looks like a cullender. + + +THE YELLOWSTONE GEYSERS + + +The most remarkable geyser country in the world, alike for the size +and the number of its spouting fountains, is the Yellowstone region +in the northwest part of the Territory of Wyoming, in the United +States, which, by a special act of Congress, has been reserved as +the Yellowstone National Park, exempt from settlement, purchase or +pre-emption. Here nearly every form of geyser and unintermittent +hot spring occurs, with deposits of various kinds, silicious, +calcareous, etc. Of the hot springs, Dr. Peale enumerates 2,195, +and considers that within the limits of the park--which is about 54 +miles by 62 miles, and includes 3,312 square miles--as many as +3,000 actually exist. The same geologist notes the existence of 71 +geysers in the area mentioned, though some of the number are only +inferred to be spouting springs from the form of their basins and +the character of the surrounding deposits. Of this vast collection +of still and eruptive springs, between which there seems every +gradation, those which do not send water into the air are, owing to +the magnificent cascades which they form, often quite as remarkable +as those which take the shape of geysers. The more striking of the +latter may, however, be briefly mentioned. + +In the Gibbon Basin is a geyser of late origin. In 1878 this +consisted of two steam holes, roaring on the side of a hill, that +looked as if they had recently burst through the surface; and the +gully leading towards the ravine was at that date filled with sand, +which appeared to have been poured out during an eruption. Dead +trees stood on the line of this sand floor, and others, with their +bark still remaining, and even with their foliage not lost, were +uprooted hard by, everything indicating that the "steamboat vent," +as it was called, was of recent formation. In 1875 it had no +existence, but in 1879 the spouting spring--which first opened, it +is believed, on the 11th of August in the preceding year--had +"settled down to business as a very powerful flowing geyser," with +a double period; one eruption occurring every half hour, and +projecting water to the height of 30 feet; the main eruption +occurring every six or seven days, with long continued action, and +a column of nearly 100 feet. + +The New Geyser in the same basin is also of quite recent origin. +It consists of two fissures in the rock, in which the water boils +vigorously. But there is no mound, and the rocks of the fissure +are just beginning to get a coating of the silicious geyserite +deposited from the water, so that it cannot long have been +spouting. Again, in the Grotto Geyser--in the Upper Geyser Basin +of Fire Hole River--the main or larger crater is hollowed into +fantastic arches, beneath which are the grotto-like cavities from +which it is named, which act as lateral orifices for the escape of +water during an eruption. It plays several times in the course of +the twenty-four hours, and sends a column of water sixty feet high, +the eruption lasting an hour. As yet, however, the force of the +water has not been sufficient, or of sufficiently long duration, to +break through the arches covering the basin or crater. The +Excelsior--claimed to be the largest of its order, which sent water +nearly 300 feet into the air at intervals of about five hours, and +of such volume as to wash away bridges over small streams below-- +was not, until comparatively recent years, known as a specially +powerful geyser. But if it had for a time waned in importance, its +immense crater, 330 feet in length and 200 feet at the widest part, +shows that at a still earlier date it was a gigantic fountain. In +this deep pit, when the breeze wafted aside the clouds of steam +constantly arising from its surface, the water could be seen +seething 15 or 20 feet below the surrounding level. Yet into the +cauldron of boiling water a little stream of cold water, from the +melting snow of the uplands, ran unceasingly. Since 1888 this +great geyser has been inactive. + +The Castle Geyser is so named on account of the fancied resemblance +which its mound of white and grey deposit presents to the ruins of +a feudal keep, the crater itself being placed on a cone or turret, +which has a somewhat imposing appearance compared with the other +geysers in the neighborhood. It throws a column usually about +fifty or sixty feet high, at intervals of two or three hours, but +sometimes the discharge shoots up much higher. + +The Giant, in the Upper Geyser Basin, has a peculiar crater, which +has been likened to the stump of a hollow sycamore tree of gigantic +proportions, whose top has been wrenched off by a storm. This +curious cup is broken down at one side, as though it had been torn +away during an eruption of more than ordinary violence, and on this +side the visitor is able to look into the crater, if he can +contrive to avoid the jets which are constantly spouted from it. +The periods of rest which it takes are varied, an eruption often +not occurring for several days at a time; yet when it breaks out it +continues playing for more than three hours, with a volume of water +reaching a height of from 130 to 140 feet. In the interval little +spouts are constantly in progess. Mr. Stanley saw one eruption +which he calculated to have shot a column of water to the height of +more than 200 feet. At first it seemed as though the geyser was +only making a feint, the discharge which preceded the great one +being merely repeated several times, followed by a cessation both +of the rumbling noises and of the ejection of water. But soon, +after a premonitory cloud of steam, the geyser began to work in +earnest, the column discharged rising higher and higher, until it +reached the altitude mentioned. + +"At first it appeared to labor in raising the immense volume, which +seemed loath to start on its heavenward tour; but it was with +perfect ease that the stupendous column was held to its place, the +water breaking into jets and returning in glittering showers to the +basin. The steam ascended in dense volumes for thousands of feet, +when it was freighted on the wings of the winds and borne away in +clouds. The fearful rumble and confusion attending it were as the +sound of distant artillery, the rushing of many horses to battle, +or the roar of a fearful tornado. It commenced to act at 2 P. M., +and continued for an hour and a half, the latter part of which it +emitted little else than steam, rushing upward from its chambers +below, of which, if controlled, there was enough to run an engine +of wonderful power. The waving to and fro of such a gigantic +fountain, when the column is at its height, + + + 'Tinselled o'er in robes of varying hues,' + + +and glistening in the bright sunlight, which adorns it with the +glowing colors of many a gorgeous rainbow, affords a spectacle so +wonderful and grandly magnificent, so overwhelming to the mind, +that the ablest attempt at description gives the reader who has +never witnessed such a display but a feeble idea of its glory." + + +A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEYSER AT WORK + + +The only other geysers in this remarkable geyserland which we can +spare room to notice are those known as the Giantess, the Beehive, +and the Grand. The Giantess sends a column of water to the height +of 250 feet. An eruption is usually divided into three periods-- +two preliminary efforts and a final one, divided from each other by +intervals of between one and two hours, while the intervals of +discharge are very long. Sometimes it does not play for several +weeks. The Beehive, which is 400 feet from the Giantess, gets its +name from the peculiar beehive-like cone which it has formed. The +eruption is also almost unique. It is heralded by a slight escape +of steam, which is followed by a column of steam and water, +shooting to the height of over 200 feet. The column is somewhat +fan-shaped, but it does not fall in rain, the spray being +evaporated and carried off as steam--if, indeed, there is not more +steam than water in the column. The duration of the discharge is +between four and five minutes, and the interval between two +eruptions from twenty-one to twenty-five hours. + +The Grand is one of the most important in the Upper Geyser basin. +Yet, unlike the Grotto, the Giant, or the Old Faithful,--so called +from its frequent and regular eruptions--it has no raised cone or +crater, and a much less cavernous bowl than the Giantess and other +geysers. The column discharged ascends to the height of from +eighty to two hundred feet, and the eruptions last from fifteen +minutes to three-quarters of an hour, with intervals on an average +of from seven to twenty hours. This fountain is apparently very +irregular in its action, though it is just possible that when the +Yellowstone geysers have been more consecutively studied, it will +be found that these seeming irregularities depend on the varying +supplies of water at different times of the year. + + +THE MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS + + +The marvellous phenomena of the Yellowstone region are not confined +to geyser action, hot springs of steady flow being, as above +stated, exceedingly numerous. Of these the most striking are those +known as the Mammoth Hot Springs, whose waters find their way +through underground passages, finally flowing from an opening as +the "Boiling River," which empties into the Gardiner River. + +These springs are marvels of beauty. Their terraced bowls, adorned +with delicate fret-work, are among the finest specimens of Nature's +handiwork in the world, and the colored waters themselves are +startling in their brilliancy. Red, pink, black, canary, green, +saffron, blue, chocolate, and all their intermediate gradations are +found here in exquisite harmony. The springs rise in terraces of +various heights and widths, having intermingled with their delicate +shades chalk-like cliffs, soft and crumbly, these latter being the +remains of springs from which the life and beauty have departed. +The great spring is the largest in the country, the water flowing +through three openings into a basin forty feet long by twenty-five +feet wide. From this the hot mineral waters drip over into lower +basins, of gracefully curved and scalloped outline, the minerals +deposited on the lips of the basin forming stalagmites of +variegated hue, yielding a brilliant and beautiful effect. The +terraced basins bear a close resemblance to the former New Zealand +pink and white terraces, and since the annihilation of the latter +are the most charming examples in existence of this rare form of +Nature's artistic handiwork. + + + + + +End of The Project Gutenberg Etext of The San Francisco Calamity + diff --git a/old/sfclm10.zip b/old/sfclm10.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a6ee6c2 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/sfclm10.zip |
